^^LCP lUiMii. Kaannlnu * I'riniiiiu. NARRATIVE OF TIIH SECOND ARCTIC EXPEDITION MADE BY CHARLES F. HALL: HIS VOYAGE TO REPULSE BAY, SLEDGE JOURNEYS TO THE STRAITS OF FURY AND HECLA AND TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND, RESIDENCE AMONG THE ESKIMOS DURING THE YEARS 18G4-'GU. EDITED UNDER THE ORDERS OF THE HON. SECRETARY OF THE NAVY, BY Prof. J. E. NOUESE, U. S. N. U. S. Naval Observatory, 1879. washi:n^gton: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1879. LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORMA SANTA BARBARA LETTEE FEOM TUB SECEETAKY OF THE NAVY, COMMUNICATING, IN ANSWEE TO A SENvVTl^] EESOTJITION OF FEI3EUAEY (J, 1877, THE NAEEATIVE OF THE SECONJ> l<:XPi:niTION TO TIIIC AECTIC EEGIONS MADE BY THE LATE CAPT. C. F. HALL, DUEING THE YEAES 18G4 TO 18(;t). January 14, 1879.— Ordered to lie ou the tiil)le aud be printed. Navv Department, Washington, January 14, 1870. Sir: On tlie 6th of February, 1877, the fonowing" resohition was adopted by the Senate, on motion of Mr. Sargent : Itcsolved, That the Secretary of the Navy furnish, through the Superintendent of the Naval Observatory, a narrative of the second expedition to the Arctic Regions, made by'the hite Caiit. C. r. Hall, during the years 18G4 to 1869, said narrative to be conijiilod from the manuscripts purchased from the widow of said Hall by act of Congress approved January 215, 1:^74. The Narrative has been prepared in accordance with tlie resolu- tion, and I have the honor to transmit the same herewith, accompanied by a letter from Rear-Admiral John Rodg-ers, Superintendent of tlie Naval Observatory, dated the 11th instant, and a communication from Prof J. E. Noui'se, who was directed to prepare the Narrative. I am, very respectfully, R. W. THOMPSON, Secretary of the Navy. Hon. William A. Wheeler, Vice-President of the United States. United States Naval Observatoijy, Washington, January 11, l^TU. Sir: I have the honor to submit, herewitli, tlio Narrative of tln^ journeys made by the late Capt. C. F. Hall, and of liis residence among the Eskimos, during the years 1864-'G9 ; whicli Narrative, by tlie resolution of the Senate of February 6, 1877, was ordered t<» be i'ur- nished through the Superintendent of the Observatory. I also forward the letter of Prof. J. E. Nourse, who was ordered by the Department to prepare this work. The Observatory is indebted to a number of scientific persons, Arctic explorers, and friends and helpers of the late Captain Hall, for essential aid in the collating of Arctic information. As its exchange list calls for the transmission of a number of volumes of each of its publications, I beg leave to ask that, if Congress shall order tlie pubH- cation of this Narrative, as I trust they will, provision be made for placing two hundred and fifty copies at the disposal of the Observatory for distribution. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, JOHN RODGERS, Bear- A dm iraJ, Supcrht ten den t. Hon. R. W. Thompson, Secretary of tlie Navy, Washington, I). G. U. S. Naval Observatouy, January 10, 1X75). Admiral : I liave the honor to submit herewith the Narrutiv(; of the residence of the late Capt. 0. F. Hall among the Eskimos, which has been prepared for the Senate, by the orders of the Department, under your superintendence and advice. The Manuscripts of Captain Hall's explorations, purchased by Congress, have been found to present a mass of writing in the form of journals, note-books, and even scattered leaves, exhibiting a large amount of close observation, the results of which the lamented ex- plorer more than once expressed his desire to arrange with his own hand and publish. In preparing the Narrative the aim has been to exercise a close discrimination in the selection of the material which seemed the most valuable chiefly in its geographical and ethnological bearings. The astronomical and meteorological observations, reduced from Hall's journal entries, are given in Appendixes I and II. Mr. K. W. I). Bryan, late of the Polaris Expedition, assisting in the jireparation of the Narrative, under the orders of the Department, has rendered very valuable services in arranging and condensing the material found in the journals and in superintending the astronomical and meteorolog- ical reductions. Prof C. Abbe will kindlv re-examine the last Letter. naiufd. Tlirou<'li the courtesy of Professor Baird, Secretary of the Suiithsoiiian Institution, and of Professor White, United States Geolo- u-ist. a vahiable paper on the geological collections brought by Hall in tlie United States has been furnished from the pen of Prof. B. K. Kmerson, of Amherst College. The two years preceding this expedition being years of severe labor spent bv Captain Hall in preparing for the renewal of his earlier wnrk which liad the same objects in view, the Narrative commences with this period of preparation, and is thus legitimately linked to the objects of Sir John Franklin's Expedition of 1845 and to the expedi- tit»ns sent out for his relief. In a Preliminar}^ Chapter the results of these are given in tabulated form, with maps illustrative of the general progress of geographical exploration secured by these expeditions. I have to acknowledge the courtesy shown by Sir Leopold McCHntock and by Admiral R. CoUinson, K N., in the communica- tions received iVoni them; the kindness of Miss Sophia Cracroft in returnin;:- two of Hall's journals which had been sent by him to Lady Franklin, and in tlie htan of a portrait of Sir John which has been repro- duced by the Bureau of Engraving and Printing ; and the receipt througli the State Department of valued statistical information col- lated l>y Fnited States Consul McDougal, of Dundee. The assistance rendered t(. Hall l)y liis numerous friends is named within the text, from his own ackiiKwledirments. I am, sir, very respectfull}', your obedient servant, J. E. NOURSE, Pro/, U. S. N. Rear- Admiral .Ioii.n iioDOEKs, Superintendent. CONTENTS. TABLE OF CONTENTS. OFFICIAL LETTERS Letter of Hou. R. W. Thompson, Secretary of tlie Navy, to the Vice-Presith-iit U. S. Letter of Rear-Adiiiiriil Rodgers, Superiuteiulent of th<' Naval Oh.servatory, to tlie Secre- tary of the Navy, forwarding the Narrative. PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. Pat'e. Hall's three expeditions — Piucliase of his manuscrixits l)y Congress — Resolution of the Senate of Febrnary G, 1877 — The three expeditions compared — Connection of the first and of the second with the Franklin Expedition — Correspondence with Lady Franklin — Hall's "aiipeal" and lecture in 1860 — Tables of English and of Ameri- can explorations for the Northwest Passage and for the relief of Franklin — Bene- iicial results and estimated costs of these expeditious, public and private, stated in a letter from Admiral Sir Leopold McCliutock, R. N. — The small i)ercentage of deaths— Arctic authorities, 1S18-18G0 XI-L CHAPTER I. PREPARATORY WORK FOR THE EXPEDITION. September to December, 1862. Hall returns from his First Expedition — Telegraphs from St. John's, Newfoundland, ex- pressing his purpose of a second voyage — Writes to Mr. Grinnell from Cincinnati, desiring to present the Frobisher relics to the English people — His abstract of Captain DUlon's discovery of the relics of La Perouse's Expedition — Studies Hak- luyt, Purchas, and other authorities, and finds i)roof of the genuineness of his discoveries — Reads a paper betbre the American Geographical Society, avowing his luirpose of retnruiug North in the following year — Ackuowleilgment by the Royal GeogTaphical Society of the receipt of the relics — Correspondence with Mr. .John Barrow and with Captain Becher, R. N., resulting in llii' jucjunaf ion <>f a new Arctic volume by Admiral Colliuson, R. N., for the Hakluyt Society — Hall's account of his discoveries read before the Royal Geographical Society, London— 'I'heir gen- nincn(>ss confirmed by Rae, Barrow, Markham, and Young — His abstract of the three expeditions of Sir Martin Frobishei- — Addenda ^l'-' ii CONTENTS. CHAPTER II. PKEPARATIONS FOK 11 1 1: VOYAGE— HALL SAILS FROM NEW LONDON. DlXI.MBKR, 180*2, TO JlLY, 1804. Ilall li'i-tnrvs for his iiorsonal siiiiport and that of the two Eskimos— His care of these jH.(,j)K. — Dt-atli of Tuk-i-e-li-keo-ta- Friends gained for the Seeoud Expedition- Plan of an ex-i>e Hall's tupiks— Snow-drifts— Wolf-tracks-Snow-partridges— Con- Htructioii of an igloo — Winte; i|uarters 47-70 CHAPTER IV. liTKiic <.i K-si: wnii riii: i.nmits— their feasts and hunts. OcToiJKU TO Dkckmukr :U, 1804. Hf»li h iiiiiiiKuatK.ns K. III,. KnlVering— Their gratitude— Feasts described— Ebicrbing aiikiHHe.l— An aurora— Magnetic observatory erected— Sledge journey down the WeiruMie— Mui*k-earance of whalers in Rei>ulse Bay — Capture of a whale by the crews of Hall's boats — Encampment near Fort Hope of Dr. Eae — Hall's notes of the rocks, stones, and sand found on the ice, com- pared with Parry's observations 1(>7-10S iv (CONTENTS. CHAPTER YU. A SECOM' WlMKi; LIIE-PKEPARATIONS VOU THE FIRST SLEDGE JOURNEY TO KING WILLIAMS LAND. SEPTEMUKI!, lH&o, TO APKIL, 1866. riaus lor a skilge journey in tlio sprinj,'— Si-paration from the Imiuits— Ebierbiug, Too- kui>-li-too, and Ar-iuou's family ivmain with Hall— Hie interest in the deer-hunts — Dau"or to life expeiii-uced — An aurora described by Hall as seen fiom his bed on the rocks— Large number of deer slain- Hall's reindeer deposits— Severe gale — Too-km>-li-too's remembrance of the Brooklyn ladies wishing her to dress like civilized jicople — Exjiosures on visiting the deposits — Failure to catch salmon — Hair.s daily subsi.stencc — He prepares skin garments — Removal toNow-yani — News uf the drowning of Ar-too-a — Feasts ami amuseuieuts at Now-yarn — Visit to Oog-la- ri-your Island — Troubles with the natives — Reconciliation and encouragements — Temperature of the winter months — Frequent auroras — Readiness for a forward uiovt' to King William"s Land 201-233 CHAPTER Vni. FIR.ST ADVANCE TOWARD KING WILLIAM'S LAND— SLEDGE JOURNEY TO COLVILE BAY AND RETURN. March 31 to May 25, 1866. Start for King William's Land March 31 — Hall's companions — His exposure — Walks iK'hind the sledges — Gale-bound — Innuit legeudsof the wolf and the bear — An-koo- tiug for Too-koo-li-too's sick infant — Uncertainty of the guides — Dr. Rae's chart foll(jweE bay, simmer life, and THIRD WINTER. .llXK, 1HC,<;, T(, FKnKt'AItY, 1867. Condilioiui nrccMHary for a new jonrney— Exp.ri.iice with the natives of Felly Bay- Arrival of tli«' trilH' at E-Meace hetween tlie I'dly ]5a.v and tiie JJeitnIse JJay natives — Settles some old feuds in his liipik— His sledge journeys for survey of the bay — Eiuharrassmeuts in his work— Death of Oii-c-la's wife— Ill-treatment of womeu— Arrival of the whalers— Hall requests them to spare men from their crews for his next jourucy— His assistance to the eajjtains— The; sliijis decide to winter in the bay — Hall encamps near them iu Noveuilter — lutereoni-se throuji;h the wiuter— The captains will not let the Innuits furnish him with dogs 273-290 CHAPTER X. SLEDGE JOURNEY TO IG-LOO-LIK FOK DOGS. February 7 to April 1, 1807. Counter-claims on the Innuits for their dogs — Hall dctcrniines to make a sledge journey to Ig-loo-lik to purchase his own team — Leaves Ships' Harlx>r Islands February 7 — Fii'st delays — Ou-e-la loses his way — Provisious become scarce — The mouths of the dogs tied wp to prevent their eating the harness — Am-i-tokc reached, but no natives found — Ou-e-la accuses Hall of bringing him to starvation — Ig-loo-lik reached on the 27th — Purchase of dogs — Visit to Tern Island, to Parry's llag-statf — Ou-c-la i)uts a widow and. her household goods ou the return sled — Hall puts her oii' on the ice — Starts back with another native as driver — Ou-e-la's bad conduct on the return — Hall again sights the ships on the 30th of March — The captains now refuse to let him have the men for his journey 293-310 CHAPTER XL JOURNEY TO CAPE WEYNTON. Summer of 18G7 axd winter of 1868. Anxiety for the safety of the cache made iu 1866 — Hall's party sets out to vist it May 1 — Route by Gibson's Cove, Walrus Island, aud Iwillik to Chri.stie Lake — Sails raised on the sleds — Snow-blindness — Miles Lake reached — Strange Innuita seen — The Sea of Ak-koo-lee aud Point Hargrave reached— Expedients to hurry up the dogs — Cape Weynton reached — The cache changed — Return to Beacon Hill— A ■week's musk-ox hunt — Survey of Ships' Harbor Islands — Native superstition — H.ill's purchase of supplies — Capture of a walrus — The hiring of five white men — "Winter quarters 31:5-327 vi CONTENTS. riTAPTER XTI. JOrRXEY T(^ THE STlJAIl OF FURY AND HECLA AND TO LYON'S INLET, AND FOURTH WINTER. Frniu-ARY, 1868, to March, 1869. Hall iiurposcs to visit the northt-ni part of Mellville Peninsula— Reasons for this jouiney in place of one to King William's Land— The information from the natives of monument and places of white men seen there since 1863— Purchases the few dogs still alive among the natives— His provision-hst for the journey and articles of barter— Loses some of his notes by the gale— Encamps on the ice near the Ooglit Islamls— Converses with the natives— Visits Parry Bay with Koo-loo-a— Finds a monument— Digs in vain for the cache— Finds the remains of a tenting-place once occupied by white men— Discovers Grinnell Lake and Brevoort River— Visits Amherst Island— Returns to Tern Island— Holds further conversations with the natives — Receives several maps drawn by the Eskimos — Visits Giftbrd River to fud another tenting-place — Returns to Repulse Bay— Salmon-tishing and deer- hinits- Mutiny of one of the five white men — Loss of life — Capture of a second whak' — Journey to Lyon's Inlet — Survey — Discharge of the four white men — Hall dries venison and ^irepares pemmican in his own igloo — Plans for a new sledge journey to King William's Laud 331-374 CHAPTER XIII. FINAL .lOlRNEY TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND AND RETURN TO THE UNITED STATES. Mahcii 23, 1869, TO September 26, 1869. Hall l>egin8 his final journey to King William's Land — Route toward Pelly Bay the same with that followed in 1866 and 1867 — The cache made in 1867 reached — Safety of the Htores — Deposit made for the return journey — Encamps on Lake Tep-suk-ju-a April 8 — On Augusta Island, April 11— Meets Pelly Bay natives — Peculiarities of the ice form.'ition — Flying sledge trip to the igloos — Franklin relics — Hall's natives alunued — Their fears (inieted — Musk-ox hunt near Simpson's Lake — Neitchille na- tives mot — Conversations wiih In-nook-poo-zhe-jook — More Franklin relics — En- cuMipH on Todd's Island — Graves of Franklin's men visited near Pefler River — (Iravw* on Toild's lHlanUt\ 85 S<-k-k4 Innuit Harpoon-heads IC'J Ivory and Bono Combs 177 Eskimo Dog 185 Too-koo-li-too going out into the Storm '206 Deer-skin Gloves 213 Repulse Bay Kia, and Kia Ornament 216 Ar-too-a Drowned from his Kia 217 Innuit Tight-ropes 218 Seal-tooth Ornament for the Head 219 Ground i^lan of Feasting-igloo 220 Eskimo Sled 221 Hall's Sketch of Now-yam Harbor 222 The Rent Cliff 223 Aurora Sketched by Hall 230 Franklin Relics 258 Franklin Relics — Spoons and Forks 259 Bear-tooth Toggle 295 Hall's Lamp 297 Innuit Arrows -^02 Bone Charm, Needle-case, Knife, Saw, and Bone Fork 304 Hall's Boat-log :524 Snow-goggles "^43 Monument Built by White Men 344 Sketch of Monumental Inlet 345 Sketch of Tenting-place of White Men 352 Scraper to Deceive the Seal 352 Hall's Capture of a Whale 363 Snow Village 368 Setting out for King William's Land 378 Seal and Deer Skin Foot-gear , 380 Sabres '^^ Snow-shovel ^^'' Innuit I\;ory Knives, Fork, and Spoon 397 Desk from Franklin's Ship, Needle-case from King William's Land 399 Innuit Stone Pot ^^'^ Leaf from Hall's Note-book . Tablet for Covers 409 410 Musk-ox Horns and Ladle made from them Horns of a Deer shot by Hall Musk-ox Hunt '*^"* Hall's Grave "^"^ X ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. Ktkiim. Joo 443 Grotou, Couuccticnt 440 Ou-^-j;oup (Jeanuie) and Kud-lup-pa-iui-ne (cousins of Joe) 44H, 447 flanuah 448 MAPS. Cimiiupolar Maj>. with explorfrs' names in the pocket of the vohimc. Part of the Chart furnished to Franklin xx vii Supposed Track of Franklin xxxii The Kecord found by McClintock in the Cairn xxxiii CirtuniiKdar Map No. II — Geographical Discoveries since 1818 xxxviii Frobisher's Map 15 Hall's Voyages to Re]>ulse Bay and return 55 Hall's Boat Journey, 1805 179 Hall's Boat Journey, 18GG 279 Hall's Survey of Ships' Harbor Islands 321 Hall's Journey to Straits of Fury aud Hecla, 18(58 346 Hall's Journey to Lyon's Inlet, 18G8 367 Hall's Journey to King William's Land. 1869 386 SKETCHES OF COASTLINE, DRAWN BY INNUITS. Annou's Sketch of Coast from Fort Clnncliill to Lancaster Sound 225 Ou-<»-la's Sketch of Repulse Bay 278 Nood-loo's Sketch of Murray Maxwell Inlet 351 Oou-ger- Ink's Ske*';h of Fox Channel 354 Oon-ger-luk's Sketch of Admiralty Inlet 3,56 Pa-pa-tcw-a's Sketch of Lyon's Inlet 364 Papa-tfw-a's Sketch of Pond's Bay 370 lD-nouk-i>oo-/hee-jook'8 Sketch of King William's Laud 398 PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. PRELIMINARY CHAPTER Hall's three Expeditions— Purchase of his Manuscripts by Congress — Resolution of THE Senate of February 6, 1877— The three Expeditions compared— Connection OF THE First and of the Second with the Franklin Expedition— Correspondence WITH Lady Franklin— Hall's "Appeal" and Lecture in 18C0 — Tables of English and of American explorations for the Northwest Passage and for the relief of Franklin — Beneficial Results and estimated costs of these Expeditions, public and private, stated in a letter from Admiral Sir Leopold McClintock, R. N. — The small percentage of deaths— Arctic Authorities, 1818-1860. The late Capt. Charles Francis Hall, commander of the Xortli Polar Expedition of 187 J, United States steamship Polaris, had pre- viously made two voyages, or, as he has called them, " Expeditions," to the northern shores of America. The first of these embraced a period of two years and three months, from May 29, 1860, to September 13, 1862, furnishing the material for his "Arctic Researches," which he published in 1864 The second voyage and residence among the Eskimos occui)ied the longer period of five years and three months, from June 30, 1864, to September 26, 1869 ; but of this he left no narrative, becoming absorbed immediately on his return in preparing for his third voyage, that of the Polaris. On board of this vessel his sudden death occun-ed November 8, 1871. Under the act of Congress approved June 23, 1874, the Navy xi xii Prelimiuary Chapter. Department purchased from liis family/for the sum of $15,000, the manuscripts of his several explorations, some of which were made use of 1»\- the late Admiral Davis in preparing for the Department the widelv-appreciated " Narrative of the North Polar Expedition."* The hirger number of the manuscripts, however, have been found to belong t<» the Second Expedition, and form the basis of the Narrative now prepared by the orders of the Department, to meet the call of the Senate in the resolution adopted, on the motion of Hon. A. A. Sargent, February 6, 1877. llaU's journals and notes of the years 18(i4 to 1869, kept gen- erally with much care, present a few blanks; chiefly because an un- broken diary was made impossible by the privations of an ill-furnished Arctic life His private coiTespondence, courteously loaned by his steadfast fiiend, Mr. J. C. Brevoort, and by the family of the late Mr. Henry Grinnell, supplements in part these deficiencies. It dis- closes also repulses experienced while seeking assistance for this sec- ond voyage which must have severely schooled his energies. His three enterprises had a common object in geographical dis- covery. The Polaris voyage, however, finds its distinctive separation fr(»ni Ills cirlicr objects in its aiming at solving the problem of the Pole. Ill tiiis p(»iiiT, and in its being in the fullest sense an exjDedition, and not tlie itinerary of a traveler with a few native attendants, it claims a iiiiicli lii^ilicr jilacc than the Narrative now presented. I'.ut tli<.' journals of the years isiM-'GiJ exhibit a longer experience l.y .Mr. Hall in Arctic life, and consequently with the customs, traditions, and superstitions of the Innuits than has fallen to the lot of other Arctic 'V\\v thinl <1) were ahke "Franklin Relief" Expeditions, in which Hall endeav- ored to complete the work begun by Lieutenant De Haven, Dr. E. K. Kane, of the United States Navy, and their associates, and by more than thirty English relief parties which had preceded them. Sympathy for the mysterious fate of Franklin's Expedition was universal. In Hall it kindled a spirit of enthusiasm which failed him only with his life It early became his controling idea. Through the nine years from May, 1850 when Secretary Preston's Instructions for the First Grinnell Expedition issued to Lieutenant De Haven, to the return of the English steamer Fox, he was steadily increasing his Arctic library, and devoting every spare hour to Arctic study ; and his notes and comments show his interest in all such returns from the searched region as Dr. Rae, in 1854, brought from Boothia, De Haven and Kane from Beechy Island, or McClintock from King William's Land. On the return of the officer last named. Hall urged that the explo- rations made by him and his junior officers, Hobson and Young, though eminently successful, still left much of value to be secured ; that they had been made, by necessity, in the month of May when the land was still covered with snow, and that interviews witli the Eskimos had been found practicable with detached parties only. Hoping for further success in a more favorable season of the year, and believing that " as England had left the field of search, the Stars and Stripes should enter," he sailed from New London, Conn., in May, xn Preliminary Chapter. 18GU, for the most favorable northwestern point he could reach in a whaler, from which point he would make his way westward with such Eskimo comi)anions as he could secure. To the American Geograph- i«al Society lie had avowed his chief object to be "to determine more satisfactorily the fate of the one hundred and five companions of Franklin known to be alive at the date of the ' Record' brought back by McClintock." Nothing seems to prove more fully the sincerity and depth of con- victions— at times insecurely based — than this expectation of finding offi- cers or men of that party still alive. The paper found at Point Victory in iSo'J showed that Captain Crozier had left the ships on their aban- donment, w ith a weakened party and with the remnant of perhaps origi- \\A\\ ill-sni)plied* provisions, to find his way toward the desolate region ( if j^ack's or Great Fish River. The presumption in the minds of most men was entirely against the probability of extended life in any one of the survivors named in that Record. But all difficulties in the case were overcome or lost sight of in Hall's reasonings, and in his impulse to bear relief. From inquiries r»f the whalers who visited Cumberland Sound, Repulse Bay, and other n<»rthern localities, he learned that the experience of some who had lived ft.r UKUiths as Eskimos with the Eskimos, had not been severe; and fn.ni one of Dr. Kane's party, Mr. William Hickey, he received Insurance that \\\u-\\ li<- and others of that party had so lived, they had recovered from all sicknesses and maintained their health. Hall con- cluded that some of Franklin's survisors might be still enjoying a lease •See Sir John Hichanluon'B "Polar Regions," p. 162; Admiral Sherard Osbom'e "Career of l-Yanklin," piJ. 70, 105, 108; and D. Murray Smith's "Arctic Explorations," 1877, especially for the qualify of Goldn.-r'B proviMionH. The want of pcmmican itself, of which Osboni spealcH, would makf the HiipiM.rt of Crozier'H j.arty jilincmt hopelcHs, compelling thoni to drag loads too heavy for th«ir Mtn n;;lh. Preliminarij Chapter. XV of life among that not inhospitable people, and he Iioped that by his going out and living patiently among them, he could draw out tbrough faithful interpreters, the final clue to the fate of the ships, the men, and the records of the expedition Other reasonings leading liini to beheve that some of Franklin's party still survived were substantially these: tliat no Arctic explorer had ever understood better the necessities of a good supply of fresh provisions for his men than did Sir John Franklin, and that he made provision for such necessities. In proof of this, Hall had found in the official papers that a full complement of fresh provis- ions, preserved meats, soups, and vegetables, and ten live oxen were on board the Erebus and the Terror. Further, that Franklin had told Cap- tain Martin, of the whaler Enterprise, when off the coast of Greenland, July 22, 1845, that he had provisions for five years, and, if necessary, could make them spin out seven ; and he would lose no opportunity of killing game, having already organized shooting j)arties. There was every reason to believe, too, that animal life was found in abundance by his men on the shores of Wellington Channel, especially in the neighborhood of Baillie Hamilton Island, and that Franklin had sent hunting parties to great distances with sledges ; for the tracks of these sledges were seen six years after by Kane, De Haven, and Ommaney and Osborn. Hall could say with truth that his expectations of ren- dering relief were leased on years of careful study and examination of what had been written on this subject; and his appeal was plain and strong, ''Why should not attempts be renewed again and again until all the facts are known?" These and other references to the First Voyage are here made the more full, because, as has been already intimated, the same idea of x\i Preliminary Chapter. ''rescue" is the key to the Second also, geographical discovery being but a subordinate motive. Hall's first voyage had been rewarded by discoverv, and he was thus stimulated to return to the North. But up to the time of his preparations for the North Polar Expedition in 1870, there was probably no day in \yhiili liis thoughts were not upon Franklin's men and King William's Land ; and even then his expecta- tion was to resume the search on his return from the Pole. For this problem only he declined Lady Franklin's proposal that he should go «.ut a tldrd time for the Records of the Expedition. The following Letter on this subject, written on her receiving in is/):) a newspaper account of some of Hall's Arctic work, shows her impartial judgment and her confidence also in his character and plans. In this connection it will be remembered that Lady Franklin, after being compelled on McClintock's return to abandon the lingering hope of her husband's safety, still held her thoughts on the recovery of the Records as the clue to the history of his last years and as establishing the claim that he was the discoverer of the Northwest Passage. The in(piiries which she here makes of Hall were answered by his letter of a later date, and are met in full by the statements in Chapter XIII ot tliis Narrative. [LETTER FROM LADY JANE FRANKLIN.] IJppEK Gove Lodoe Kensington Gove, Oct: 30"* 69. My dear Mr. Grinnell, I had not received M: Hall's report when 1 wrote to you last by Denis, or I should have had much more to say to you. This I have delayed, however, because I felt it was a moment when your mind must be fully occupied not only with M: Hall, but with the still nearer and more heartfelt business of overlooking all your dear son's relics and papers. — I wished also to hear the opinions of my Arctic friends on M: Hall's report; but in this I have had but partial success, as at this season friends are dispersed, and very few at hand with whom details can be discussed. — My own impresssion is that Mr Hall has done his best with the means he had at his command ; but his statement is full of omissions and so devoid of order and dates as to leave much confusion and perjjlexity in the mind. He makes no distinction between the places he visited himself, and what he saw him- self— and what he only heard of. What are the places he really set foot on in K. W. Land and the dates on which he did so 1 Did he merelx touch the Eastern shore, or did he go along the Southern coast by Cape Herschel, and visit the other places, where he says tliey finally perished ? I presume he did not visit Montreal Islaiul, but his assertion (dciivcd no doubt from certain Esquimaux) is at variance with what otlier Esquimaux told D'^ Eae and afterwards McClintock, and w itli the coii- S. Ex. 27 II ^^i XVUl Preliminary Chapter. elusions formed by Aiulersoii, the nudson Bayofiicer, previous to that j)(_'iiod. 1 ;im now snpi)osiiij»- that two sets of Esquimaux gave contradic- tory r\ ideuce on this point, but I perceive it was the same man whose name was *riven liy ^V Hall, who gave the contradictory information to tin- two parties. — Is this the case, or has Df Eae misunderstood him or Hall I Who was his authority for saying that the records are buried in a vault (that is, I suppose, a hole dug for the purpose) near Point Vic- tory.' Could the Esquimaux point out the exact spot, and, if so, can we l>elieve they have not opened or rifled it? Was this question put to them f — and is there reason to suppose that these documents may exist in jKtrt in their possession ? — Most people are of opinion that they t(tiik tlii'ir Journals with them on their march, and that even at the last extremity, they did not throw them away, but tried to hide them ; and this may have taken i)lace all along the march. It seems strange, if they were buried near Pt. Victory, that the Record found there and brought home by McClintock, did not notice this; — especially as it was well un- derstood, I believe, among the officers, although not openly talked about ^lest the information should be betrayed to the natives) that these doc- uments were to be buried so many yards magnetic north of the cairns (KM.tt il. — Again it is supposed, and I believe McClintock is of that opinion, that these vaults may be conjectural things, by which the Es(juiiiianx explained some leveled or paved spot which had been the sit«- (»f a magnetic Observatory or shooting station. Have the Esqui- maux ever been asked if they found tin cylinders, or any other con- trivanee for holdin;; nothing but a sheet of paper, under the cairns, and what tln-y «liumely r«'warde(l ? If another search were instituted, it should be held out t«» tiiem that the i>roduction of paper or books woidd be more hand- >ut see and talk to him! — but how is this to be effected, for I siip- l)ose he is too busy with his book to come to England till the publisher's work is done ; — otherwise I would gladly pay all his expenses to and from and during his stay here. I am sorry to hear rumors of his having got into some trouble about I lie man wliom he sacrificed. I presume he deemed it necessary, how- ever, for the safety of himself and others. It is an awful thing to take a man's Ufe. but it has been jbniid justifiable upon occasions when the lives of others were endangered. AVitness that act of Sir John Eichard- Mtn's. which is always quoted to his honor, when, without a moment's warning, he shot (h)wn the lialf-breed hunter, who was advancing quickly in his stn*ngth townnl liimselfand Hepburn, both enfeebled by starva- tion, in (»rder to saerilice ami feed upon them. Sir Ix»opoId McClintoek is home pre])aring a third edition, (which lias lw<.-n c.-dled U,v l.y his piddisliers) of the Fox Voyage. He thinks PreUminanj Cliapter. xxi liini8elf most fortuiuitc in aiiticipatiiig the discovery I>y llir I':s(|iiiiii;iii\ of the traces, as he succeeded in doing in seven distinct h)calities in lvin<; William Land. — McChntock thinks the leadinp: article in the Tribune gives a fair estimate of what he has done; in general, Hall's researches quite contirm those made by himself, i have come to the end of my second sheet, and dare not take a third. Your faithful &, affectionate friend JANE FRANKLIN EEPLY. \_Confidential, with the exception that Lady Franklin can be infoiiiied of the isiihstanet! of tin; letter.— C. F. IL] Cincinnati, Dec' 14'* 18C9. Mr. Grinnell Dear Sir: Time and again have I taken in hand the subject matter of Lady FrankUn's Letter, for the object of giving full answer to it; but in vain. I can say in ti nth that ever since my arrival in the country from my return from my late fi\'e years voyage and travels in the Arctic liegions, 1 have not had two hours to myself in which I could sit down and not be interrupted many times. I despair, at present, of getting the time to answer (as I would like) the letter referred to; for T am bu&ily flying here and there on Lecture tours. Lecturing is a curse to my soul, for I am far from being that way inclined, and yet I have had to inirsue it and am still head and ears engaged in it. Just as soon as I can get out of the uncon genial business, I shall do so ; and then I do hope I can get at least suliicient time to apologize to you and other friends for the apparent long neglect. This much I must say, that, for years, I have determined to undertake an Ex pedition to the North Pole so soon as I should become satisfied that there could be no siu'vivor of Sir John Franklin's Expedition. I exjjcct soon toapply to Ttm gress for aid in my purposed North Pole Expedition. In case of not securing t lie necessary aid from Congress or otherwise for that Expedition (to commence next spring,) I shoidd then feel to do whatever I could to favor ])ersona]ly tlic u(»blc aspirations of Lady Franklin: parenthetically let it be said, lliat no one should ask of me to accept a sidiordinate Y>osition in an Arctic Exjtedition. If McCbn tock and myself be Lady Franklin's chosen ones, we coidd be Co-Commanders and nothing less. xxii FreUminary Chapter. As lur pay I slioiiltl ask nothing-. IMy faitliful Frank LaDer, I kuow, would Ih' i.'la(l to aiconiiiany us. llo Avill go wlicrever I desiie, and certainly I will feel •rlad to have him Avith nie whenever J may go to tlie Arctic Eegions. Joe and Hannah, my Esquimaux Interpreters, I tliink, would accompany us also. They M'\\(\ hiM' to you &: family. Yours ever C. F. HALL. I '. S. ^VIlether I go or not on the proposed English Expedition to King W"^'s Land, 1 feel to do all T ran in facilitating its jairposes ; and will, therefore, communi- cate such important matter as 1 have acquired in the North, so soon as I can be relieved from the pressure upon ray time. 'J'Ir- i»roniise involved in the last of the j^receding lines was ful- filled at as early a date as was found practicable. On the lOtli of January, 1871, he forwarded to Lady Franklin two MSS., titled "Sir Julm Franklin, with notes of my voyage of 1864 to '69." The extracts AN hich foHuw from letters accompanying this packet, will confirm what has heen said as to his desire to go out even a third time for the Records: • * • My special respects to Miss Cracroft. I trust I shall be able to send yf)U other matter relating to my King William's Land Sledge Journey, and sucli information as will be of use to any one who may make a Journey to King W. Land. • ♦ • AVhy is it that I am not still following up that subject? Is it linished ? Can more be done in gaining intelligence of that most important of all Arctic r:.\peditions? To the first question the answer cannot be satisfactory, for I hardly know, myself, why I was led ott* from that almost holy mission to which I have devote, l„,w wickedly many survivors in the fall of 1848 had been abandon. mI au.l siitVeiv.l 1.. die, my faith, till then so strong, was shaken, and ultimately \va.s extinguish..!. As to the Uecords, I believed they had been care- fidly buri.'d on King William's Land before the Erebus and Terror Averc aban- doned: ami, that if no survivor was f..un.l, at least those Kecords might be recov- ered. • • • (;...! willing. 1 will make t\v.) m.ne voyages to the :North,— one for Prelimina ry Ch aptc r. XXI 11 the discovery of the regions to and about the Pole, and the other to obtain the records of Sir Johri's Expedition, and to obtain otlicr inforuiation tliaii wliut [ already i^ossess relating to it. Had I lailed in getting my Country intcn^stcd in fitting out an Expedition for making Polar discoveries, as I told you I would have most eertainly [D. V.) been ready for the King Wm''s Land Voyage, As the matter now stands, I have much reason to hope that the North Polar Expedition I havf, the honor to command, will accomplish its object and be back to the States in 30 months from the time of leaving say from 1st of June next.* ^The search for the Records has not boon wliolly abandoned oven at this late date. The cruises of the Pandora (now the Jeanette, of the Polar Expedition of 1879, under command of Lieutenant De Long, U. S. N.) made by Capt. Allen Young in 1875 and 1876 had this search for one of their objects. June 19, 1878, an expedition nnder Lieutenant Sch-watka, U. S. A., was sent out from New York by Morison & Brown for the same object. This expedition proposed to remain on the field of search later in the summer following than Hall found himself able to do in 1^09. Taking with them Eskimo Joe as guide and interpreter, and a force of armed white men, they may possibly secure something of value of those Records, the recovery of which has been so long desired by England and by the world. Captain Barry, who took out Lieutenant Schwatka in Ihe Eotheu, had received on a previous voyage information from the Neitchille natives Avhich prompted the present expedition. He had brought home with him also a Franklin relic, the history of which is marked under the annexed drawing. Messrs. Morison & Brown presented it to Miss Cracroft, through the U. S. Naval Observatory. SPOON BELONGING TO SIR JOHN FRANKLIN BROUGHT FROM REPULSE BAY BY CAPT. BARRY, OF THE WHALER A. HOUGHTON, IN 1877, FORWARDED TO MISS SOPHIA CR^VCUOFT, LONDON THE MENDING DONE BY THE ESQUIMAUX. xxiv PrtUmiuary Chapter. Full evidence is thus fouiul in Hall's papers, especially in that, ])rivate coiTespondence which best discloses impulses and purposes, that his "Kescue and Research" was the impulse not of a humane feeling only, Ijut of such feeling exercised towards those whom he con- sidered heroes in their objects as well as in their sufferings. It grew (.lit of his thuuuhts of men who had been fighting nature for objects which had enlisted very noble minds; — enticing fiom his home a Franklin for the fourth time, and even in his sixtieth year. Hall's own desire for participation in the work of search was quickened by the fact that every Relief Expedition except McClintock's had erred in its line of search, until "the pursuit was now ended," as John Barrow and others wrote him, " where it should have been begun." It does not seem so strange, then, that he should at times have spoken of him- self as " called" to do something in the work of relief on which no one else was entering. Tn Li'o back to his first appeal, issued for him to the citizens of Cincinnati in ixdo, is to cite what in one form or another disclosed his feelings throughout the whole remainder of his life. Tlic appeal read as ff>llows : rl This is ro m!:mokialize all lovers of Man and of Geogra- ^"-^ lapliy. History, and Science to co-operate by all methods and iiMMii-^ ill ilicir 1 lower, to facilitate and assist onr fellow coimtry- iiiaii. Chailes Francis Hall of Cincinnati, Oliio, in tlie formation "f. and lilting nut an American Expedition, in search of survivors • 'I' Sir .l Long. 11" W.; lat. 80° 37' N- Isahella . .. |S Lancaster Sound; long. 84 W. ; Alexander . ) lat. 76° 54' N. IV. rapt. W. E. Parry. (apt. <;. r. Lyon .. V. Capt. W. E. Parry Comniandcrll. P. Hoppner.. .. VI. Cai-i. G. E. Lyou MI. Cai-t. I'. \V. iVediy Hecla . Griper Fury . . Hecla . Hecla . Fury VIII. (apt. .Jdhu Kotvs Li I 70° 12' N. J \ Prince Regent's Inlet; long. 92' ) ^ 18' W. ; lat. 740 28' 13" N. ( ^ Rowc's Welcome ; long. 89° 1' ) ^ 44" W. ; lat. (55° 20' N. ( ^ Bering's Straits to Point Bar- } i row, 126 miles east of Icy Cape. fWest coast of Prince Regent's^ j Inlet andofBoothia and north I coast of King Willi.im's Land ; long. 990 W. ; lat. 70^ 5' [ 17" N. 1818 1818-'19 1819-'20 1831-'23 Frozen Strait; long. 83° 40 lat. 05° 47' N. 'W.;^ 1824-'25 1824 1825-'28 1829-'33 1836-'37 J ..1 wimc ciiriouH noticoA of /fnimcaM voyages for the Passage, made in 1753, 1754, 1772, aud iM>««ibly Oil early ua Uuii}, mm the clo.se of this chapter. Preliminary Chapter. xx\ii (2.) EXPLORATIONS BY LAND. 1819-1822.— Capt. John Franklin, with Dr. J. Eiclianlson, Liciitciiants I'.acU and Hood; land journey from York Factory, west side of Iliidsdn's r,av, t<» the Coppermine River, and from its mouth east to l*oint Turnagain, hit. G80 19' N., long. 109° 25', a distance of 550 miles. AVliole joiuiiey 5.500 miles (see for this route Circumpolar Pocket Map). 1825-1827. — Sir J. Franklin explored the coast from the moutli of Mackenzie's Elver westward to Return Reef, long. 148° 52', lat. 70° 20' N. ; Dr. Rich- ardson, of the same expedition, coasting from the mouth of tlie Mackenzie east to the mouth of the Coppermine. (Pocket Map.) 1833. — Capt. George Back, in search of Sir John Ross, discovered the Great Fish River, descended it, and explored the coast eastwardly as far as long. 94° 58' W., lat. 680 13' N. 1837-1839. — Messrs. Dease and Simpson, in the service of the Hudson Bay Com- pany, explored the coast from Mackenzie River westward to Point Barrow, and eastward from the Coi>permine to Castor and Pollux River, long. 93° 7' W. This exploration supijlemented Beechey's, Franklin's, and Richardson's coastings, and thus completed the examination of the coast line fiom Bering's Strait to long. 93© 7' W. What remained, therefore, in the problem of the Northwest Pas- sage was to connect Parry's furthest Westing of 113° 48' 22", made in 1819, either with Bering's Strait or southward with Simpson's Strait. To seek tlie passage westward to Bering's Strait from ls\e\- ville Island seemed to the Admiralty at that day a loss of time in con- sequence of the unusual magnitude and apparently fixed state of the ice which had been observed by Parry off Cape Dundas. But of the western entrance to Simpson's Strait, Sir John Franklin was accustomed to say, ''If I could only get down tliere my work is done ; it is all plain sailing to the westward." In this buoyant liope he left England May 19, 1815, commanding the last expedition which XXV HI Prel'un hiaru C liapter. lias liad the discovery of the Nortliwest Passage as its direct object His latest dispatch was dated, "Whale Fish Islands, west Coast of Greenland. Jnlv VI, 1845." His ships Avere last seen Jul}^ 26, of that year, by the whaler Prince of Wales — moored to an iceberg, lat. 74' AX' N., long. 66° 13' W. THE EXPEDITION. Officers. Vessels. Positions reached North and West. Year. C.ipt. Sir J. Franklin, Com- niandiT J. Fitzjamos, Lieut. G. Gore. Capt. F. K. M. Crozier, Lieut, i:. Little. Erebus, 370 tons, screw. Terror, 340 tons, screw. ' I. Up Wellington Channel, 150 miles, ' to lat. 770 N., long. 99° W. II. Wintered at Beechey Island, lat. 74«^ 43' 28" N., long. 91'^ 39' W. III. Thence west, and probably through ■- Peel Sound, to lat . 70° 05' N. , long. 98° 23' W., where the ships were abandoned April 22, 1848 ; one of them drifting south. 1845 to 1848 No tidings lia\nng been received from Franklin at the close of nearly three years, Eelief expeditions began to be sent out from England. The chief of these are stated in the following tables. The lines of search and the chief localities examined in the hope of find- ing tlie lost expedition may be traced on Circumpolar Map No. I. (Pocket.) The tables have been aiTanged to show that the search for Franklin was carried on by expeditions which, within about the same periods, vi.sitcd the Northern coasts, some from Bering Straits and oiImts jV North Star ( (Supply ship.) Master Sannders ) Landed provisions on one of ^ the Wollaston Islands. 1850-51 \ Lady Franklin.. J Sophia Captain Pcnuv..... .. . f Coasts of Comwallis Island [ and shores of Wellington I Channel. Captain Stewart ( Resolnte Captain Austin f South coasts of the Parry Isl- ands and the passages be- ,-,.„ „, 1 Assistance 18o0-'51 { ^. Pioneer Intrcnid Captain Ommaney tween them, northwest and east coasts of Prince of Wales Island to long. 103° W., lat. Lieutenant Osborn Lieutenant Cator I 72° N. First Grinnell Expedition ; 1850-'51 \ Advance Lieutenant De Haven, U. S. X . . . shores of Wellington Chan- ) Eescue Master Griffin, U. S. N nel ; discovered Grinnell I . Land. 'Shores of Wellington Channel ' and the coasts of Melville and Prince Patrick Islands ; the Assistance, Resolute, Pioneer, and Intrepid aban- doned August 26, 1854 ; the Resolute picked up at sea. Assistance Sir E. Belcher lat. 04° 40', long. 01° 30', Sep- tember 11, 1855, by Capt. Resolnte Captain Kellett 1 185-2-'54 ' Pioneer James Buddington, of New^ London, Conn. ; brought to Intrepid Lieutenant McClintoek North Star CaptaiTi PuHen the United States, and pre- sented to England by joint resolution of United States Congress of August 28, 1856 ; delivered to Queen Victoria by Commander Hartstcue, . U. S. N., December 16 of same I year. rreliminary Ch apter. XXXI Years. Vessels. Commanders. Line oC Mcanli .-imi (<(;iMs examined. 1 Sboresof Wellington Channel ; landed stores at Cape IJiley ; returned with part of ]kle- 185:5 S Phoenix Commander Inglefield Clure'a command ; Lieuten- i Breadalbane Lientenant Fawcknor 1 1 1 ant Bellot, of France, per- ished in the ice August 17, 185;}; the ship lost at Cape , Riley August 21, 1853. 1853-'55 Advance Dr. Kane, U. S. N \ Second Grinnell Expedition, ^ Smith's Sound. Lat.82027'N. Returned to England from 1854 \ Pliojnix Commander Ingletield Beechey Island willi j)art of ^ Talbot Commander Jenkins ] Belcher's and McClure'scom- \ mands. 1855 \ Release Lieutenant Hartstcne, U. S. N.. Lieutenant Simms, U. S. N f Ships sent out for the relief of j Dr. Kane; found him on his return at Lievely or God- i Arctic havn, Greenland. (3) LAND EXPEDITIONS. 1848-'49. — Sir John Richardson and Dr. Rae searched the coasts of North America hetAveen the Mackenzie and the Coppermine Rivers. (Dr. Rae, under the Hudson Bay Company in 1846-'47, made a voyage of discovery from I'ort Churchill to the Gulf of Boothia, surveying the Gulf to Fury and llecla Strait on the ea.st and Lord Mayor's Bay of Sir James Ross on the west, determining there an isthmus.) 1849. — Dr. Rae reached Cape Krusenstern. 1849-'51.— Lieut. W. J. S. Pulleu, from the Plover. (See table No. II for Boat Expedition.) 1851.— Dr. Rae: coasts of WoUastou Island and east coast of Victoria Land to lat. 70° N., long. 101° W. 1853-'54.— Dr. Rae : coasts of Boothia Isthmus; obtained relics of Franklin's Expedition Crewarded by vote of Parliament). 1855.— J. Anderson and J. G. Stewart: west coast of Adelaide Peninsula. XXXll Prelim iuary Cliapter. (S.) PRIVATE EXPEDITIONS ORGANIZED TTNT)ER SUBSCRIPTIONS BY SOCIETIES, BTLADT FEAlfK- LIX, CAPTAIN ROSS, LIEUTENANTS McCLINTOCK, YOUNG, AJS^D OTHERS. Yours. Vessels. Commanders. Line of searcb and coasts examined. A portion of Cornwallis Island. [Dr. E. A. Goodsir, brother of 1850-'5l S Felix Sir Jdliu Koss the surgeon of the Erebus, '^ M:iiy Coiiuiiiiiulei" Pliilliu.s . . . in the -whaler Advice, in 1849, also searched Baffin's Bay and Lancaster Sound.] Found Barrow Strait and Prince Regent's Inlet blocked iSoO Prince Albeit Commander Forsvtli 1 i with ice; coasts of Prince of Wales Island and North Somerset. i 1 ' Shores of Prince Regent's Inlet Prince Albert \ Captain Kennedy and Bellot Straits. Lieuten- ant Bellot, of France, -was second in command. 1851-'52 J Lieutenant Bellot ' Wostenholme, Whale, Smith's, Jones, and Lancaster Sounds, and Baffin's Bay. 1852 Isabel CoiiiinaiKlrr Iii<4lelield . .... .. ^ [Captain Kennedy, in 1853, sailed in the Isabel for Be- rings Straits ; voyage aban- ^ doned at Valparaiso. ] Completed survey of North Somerset, Prince of Wales Island, Boothia-Felix Pen- insula, and King William's 1857-'59 Fox Captain McClintock Land, finding many relics of Franklin's Expedition, and obtaining at Point Victory the only Record as yet recov- ,, ered. This last expedition, under McClintock, brought from the cah-n at I'niiit \ ictorv, (Ml King William's Land, a tin cyhnder containing the s C r£ O C; CO p; C — N Sir o CD 2 ^ "-•So o S2 CfQ — P ^lt.;t_, -__>w 'i^lA::^ /»"/- J ?^^ p =; OJ s =5 «= =; o x P ~ o 5 2: p p^ 2 ^ (r-^ s^ = o — 5 o o^ o p <^ ST St « c ^ ft C- S" aq -r -5 a2_ o ft — ^ p. ^ >-^ o ^ K f5 > ? i^ 2 f^^ CD g CD O- ii CD ^ iz: ■^ EL S" c^ n: 2 CD CD O CD cd' Sii. P CD CD CD "^ p 2 °° -jq O CD 2S 53 S* P s O P CD P 3 P < CD S 3- -: p &i ?r p r*- p *~d -*» CD 2- CD -j -- O S5 =^ CD 3 < Cl. 3* 3 S- 2 p -"' I ^ o ;^ Q- CD ^ crq CD S CD' 3 <- ►-' CD 3 2 g» o ^ CD » CD T 3 CD 2 <^ — CD O CD oq i:; CD — ^ CD p :c 3. '4 ^ CD ,,^ OS 3 CD ct- -f' 3 P 2 < O P 3 CD 5S 3 cf CD 3 r' ►— 3' *^ p" s F '/q S O SL, CD. '^ cc » oc r^ O CD p *^ o p " CD 3 _ O CD P 00 3 ^ o* P ST. C 2 <^ B CD ^ 3 O <1 ^ 1 3" O Oq 2 P CD CD Z:. 3 O bd - CD CD ^ L.^ <^'-'' f ^, Preliminary Chapter. xxxiii Record, of which a fac simile is here given. It is the only official paper as yet found recording the fate of the Franklin Ex2)edition * CHIEF BENEFICIAL, RESULTS. The explorations for the discovery of the Northwest Passage, and thoso sent out for the relief of Sir John Franklin or other absent explorers, resulted in iIk discovery of that great region lying within the Arctic Circle between 00- and IMP west longitude up to Cape Parry, 71° 23' west longitude and 77° G' nortli latitude ; or from Davis Strait to Cape Bathurst; embracing Banks, Prince Albert, and Prince Patrick's Lands, Melville Island and Sound, McClintock's ('lianiic], Ba- thurst Island, Victoria, Prince of Wales and King William's Land, Bootliia and Gulf of Boothia, North Somerset, North Devon, Melville Peninsula, Cockburn Island, Grinnell, Ellesmere, and Washington Lands, Lancaster, Eclipse, and Jones * lu 1859 McCliintock learned that the ships made the passage to the waters leading into Sinipsou's Strait. Franklin's expedition, therefore, discovered -what he sought, lie had dicir John Eoss : the w hale-flslieiy of the North, aud northwest of Bafiiu's Bay.* 5. Captain Parry : Avhak- fishery of Lancaster Sound, Barrow Strait, and Prince Ee^rent's Inlet. (i. Admiral Beechey : whale-fishery of Bering's Straits, in which in the space of two years the whalers of Nantucket and New Bedford obtained cargoes from which it is said they have realized eight millions of dollars. To these statements of results may be added with interest the fact that the h^ss of Hfe has been remarkably small. The number of deaths occurring on board of all the ships of all the public and private expedi- tions sent for tlie relief of Franklin and on those engaged in later Arctic explorations up to tlie year 1873 has not exceeded one and seven-tenths l)er cent, of the officers and men employed. At the meeting of the Roval Geographical Society in 1865, Lieutenant Maury remarked that tlie wreck-charts of the British Isles for the previous year showed greater loss tluui did the forty years of Arctic exploration, 1819-59. The accompanying map. No. II, shows the unexplored regions at the date of 1818, geographical discoveries subsequent to that date being inclosed within the red lines. Circumpolar Map No. I (to be tMuiid ill tlic })ock('t of the volume) has been prepared to show the chief li.calitics \isit('(l by the officers named in the preceding tables. A few On the map accompanyiug Hon. Daines Barrington's "Possibility of Api)roaching the Nortli role," imMislicd in London In 181ri, " BalKin's Bay" will bo found to bavc upon it the words '•a<-c«»rding In the r<-latioii of W. Badin in IfiKI, bnt nol now hclievcd." The facts of this case aro that I'urchaH nn]iar(h>nably oniittt-d pnblishing the map bionght back by the truthful old uav- i;^ator, baying that " tlie Tables of liis .Journal and sayling were too costly to insert." As the con- wfpienre iif thus dis(T<all Kiver and Disco, up Davis' Straits, who had been in the Ice fourteen Days off Farewell, and had then stood to West- ward, and assured the Commander that the Ice was fast to the Shore, all above Hudson's Straits to the distance of forty Degrees out; and that there had not been such a severe Winter as the last these 24 Years that they had used that Trade ; they had been nine Weeks from Copenhagen. The Argo, finding she could not get round the Ice, i)ressed through it and got into the Strait's Mouth the 26th of June, and made the Island Eesolution, "but was forced out by vast quantities of driving Ice, and got into a clear Sea the 1st of July. On the 14th, cruising the Ice for an opening to get in again, she met 4 Sail of Hudson's Bay Ships, endeav- oring to get in, and continued with them till the 19th, when they parted in thick Weather, in Lat. 62 and a half, which thick Weather continued to the 7th of August. The Hudson's Bay Men supi)osed themselves 40 Leagues from the Western Land. The Argo ran down the Ice from 63° to 57° 30', and, after repeated attempts to enter the Straits in vain, as the Season for discovery on the Western Side of the Bay was over, she went on the Labrador Coast, and discovered it perfectly from b&^ to 55°, finding no less than six Inlets, to the Heads of all of which they went, and of which we hear they have made a very good Chart, and have a better Account of the Country, its Soil, Produce, &c., than has hitherto been published. The Captain says 'tis much like Xorway, and that there is no communication with Hudson's Bay through Labrador where one has been heretofore imagined, a higli Kidge of Mountains running Xorth and South about 50 Leagues within the Coast. In one of the Harbors they found a deserted wooden House with a brick Chimney which had been built by some English, as appeared by Sundry Things they left behind : and afterwards in another Harbor they met with Captain Goff in a Snow* from London, who informed them that the same Snow had been there last Year, and landed some of the Moravian Brethren who had built that House ; but the Natives having decoyed the then Captain of the Snow, and five or six of his Hands, in their Boat round a Point of Land at a Distance from the Snow, under im-tence of Trade, and carried them all off (they having gone imprudently witlioMt Anns), tlu; Snow after waiting sixteen Days, without hearing of them, went Home and was obliged to take away the Moravians to help to work the Vessel. Part of the Business this Year was to Enquire after those Men. Cap- tain Swaine discovered a tine fishing Bank, which lies but six Leagues off the •A Ihrcc-masted vcBsel, the third mast, abaft the mainmast, carrying a trysail. Preliminary Chapter. xli Coast, and extends from Lat. 57° to 54°, supposed to be the sainc hinn d ;ii in Captain Davis's Second Voyage. ISTo bad Accident liai)]K'iKMl to the \'rss«I, and the men kept in perfect health during the whole Voyage and returned all well. 11. Not satisfied with the results of this attempt, Captain Swainc again sailed in the Argo, the following spring, and the l*eniisyl\ ania Journal and Weekly Advertiser of Thursday, October 24, 1754, ]iiil>- lished in Philadelphia, says : On Sunday last arrived here the Schooner Argo, Capt. Swainc, who was fitted out in the Spring, on the discovery of a IsT. W. Passage, but having three of his Men killed on the Labrador Coast, returned without success. The Gazette also says : On Sunday last arrived here the schooner Argo from a second Attempt of a Discovery of the Northwest Passage, but without success. A full "Extract from a Journal of this voyage of 1753" will be found in the quarto volume on "The Great Probability of the North- west Passage," edited by Thomas Jefferys, Geographer to the King, London, 1768. It embraces 22 pages of Jefferys' Quarto Treatise. In the extract will be found also the statement that a Captain Taylor, in a sloop of about thirty-five tons, was met with July 9, 1 75."<, in the same waters somewhere in about lat. 56° and long. 56° 42', which sloop had been fitted out from Rhode Island to go in pursuit of a North- west Passage, and if not successful to come down on the coast of Labrador. In Jefferys' volume, p. xi, will also be found the following : The voyage of 1752 was made from Philadelphia in a schooner of about sixty tons, and fifteen persons aboard, fitted out on a subscription of the merchants of Maryland, Pennsylvania, New York, and Boston, on a generous plan, agreeable to proposals made them, with no view of any monopoly which they opposed, not to inter- fere with the Hudson's Bay trade, or to carry on a clandestine trade with the natives of Greenland, but to discover a Northwest Passage and explore the Labrador coast, at that time supposed to be locked up under a pretended right, and not xlii Prelimhiarji Chapter. liequented V)y the subjects of England, but a successful trade carried on by the French ; to open a trade there, to improve the fishery and the whaling on these coasts, fultivate a friendship Mith the natives, and make them serviceable in a l>olitical way, wliich design of theirs of a publick nature, open and generous, was in a great measiiic defeated by itrivate persons interfering, whose views were niort' contracted. They did not succeed the first year as to their attempt in discovering a Nurt Invest Passage, as it was a great year for ice; that it would be late in the ye;ir liefore the western part of Hudson's liay could be attained to, and then im- possible to explore the Labrador that year, therefore the first part of the design was droi)i)ed, and the Labrador was explored. The next year a second attempt was made as to a i»assage ; but three of the people who went beyond the place appointed 1)y their orders, and inadvertently to look for a mine, [samples of which liad been carried home the year before, and this at the instigation of a private person liefore they set out from home, without the privity of the commander,] were killed by Eskimaux, and the boat taken from them. After which accident, with some disagreeable circumstances consequent thereon amongst the schooner's company, and after an experiment made of their disinclination to proceed on any further discovery, it was thought most prudent to return. This short account is gi\en by the person mIio commanded in this affair to prevent any misrepre- sentation hereafter of what was done on these voyages. The last three hnes of this paragraph point probably to an item ill tlie tVdlowing" curious letter from the chief merchant of Philadelphia of tliat (lay, and the chief "undertaker" of the voyage of 1752. Litter from Will. Allen, merehanf, (oid, at a later date, Chief Justice of the Province of Penmylvania, to the xnoprietarij Thomas Penn. Philadelphia, Xor. ISth, 1753. Siii : As I am quite assmed that everything that regards the interest and reputation ol tiie I'ro\iiice of Pennsylvania will ever be regarded by you, 1 there- ton- ])i"^ leave t<» solicite your favor in behalf of myself and many other merchants of this )»hice. Notwithstanding the rei)eated attempts of Gentlemen in England to discover th«' Nortli\v<'st Passage without success, yet there has api)eared aiiionir us a spirit to undertake tliat noble design, which if eftected will redound to tin- lionoiir ol your j)rovince and to the advantage of us the undertakers. Preliminary Chapter. xliu By the inclosed papers, over which you will be pleased to cast your <•>(>, you will perceive that last year we had intended to i>ut our desi<,ni in «'.\«art of tlie intelligence that he could give, he has been base enough to endeavour to circum- vent us. As a proof of that I assert, I here enclose his original letter, wrote with his own hand, to Mr. Benjamin Franklin. We have also here our paper of sub- scription for the carrying on of the undertaking, signed by the said Sterling ; notwithstanding which, as I said before, he made a voyage to London, and for his discovery and the proposals he laid before the above Gentlemen, lie has, though a parson, been rewarded with a collectorship of the customs at the head of the bay. We conceive ourselves very ill used by this false brother ; have there- fore presented a petition to His Majesty, which comes herewitli, praying that no patent for an exclusive trade be granted, which is humbly submitted to yoiu- consideration, and I am desired to request that you will please to get it presented if you judge it will answer any good end. The expense attending the sollicitation, &c., I will take care of, with thanks to discharge. Yoiu- kind interposition in our behalf will confer a favor on many of the most considerable merchants of this place, and j)articularly on Your most obedient humble servant, WILL. ALLEN. xliv PreUmhiary Chapter. A VOYAGE FROM VIRGINIA 1772. The Gentlemen's Magazine, published in London, November, 1772. says : By a letter from James Wilder, captain of the Diligence, fitted out by sub- scription in Virginia ^\ ith a \ icw to the discovery of the long sought for North- west Passage, it appears by the course of the tides there is a passage, but that it is seldom or never open, and he believes impassable. He sailed as high as 09° 11' and discovered a large bay before unknown. The American Quarterly Review of 1828 refers to this voyage; also, Scoresby, in his Account of the Arctic Regions, and Macpherson, in Ills Annals of Commerce, vol. iii. Contributions in sums of £5 and ui)ward were made for it in New York. A VOYAGE REPORTED TO HAVE BEEN MADE IN 1639 FROM BOSTON. Hall had notes of a strangely-reported expedition from Boston in 1039, against which the Viceroys of New Spain and Peru were said to have dispatched Admiral de Fonte. These notes will be found in Jeffer^'s' work already referred to. Snow's History of Boston treats tlie story of the Admiral as a myth, made up by the Magnalia. But Ellis, ill his Voyage of the Dobbs and California, says : It is not at all impossible that either to this, or some other Expedition un- <1« itakcn frcjm Boston, the present Hudson's Bay Company owe that Discovery which i)i(» ears 1836-'39. 80. London, 1843. [An account of these, communicated to E. Geog. Soc'y by Governor l'ell\ , k)\: tlie Hudson Bay Co., in E. Geog. Soc'y Journal, vol. viii, 1838.] xlviii PrcUminary Chapter. 11. Chief EngJifih and French Arctic imhlications issued between the years 1845 and 18G0. Barrow, Sir- Johu. Voyages of Discovery and research within the Arctic regions from the year 1818 to 1815. 8°. Loudou, 1846. Eae, ] )r. John. Narrative of an Expedition to the Shores of the Arctic Sea in 1846 and 1847. 8^. London, 1850. liithardson and liae. Journal of a Boat Voyage in search of Sir J. Franklin in 1848. '2 V. 8°. Loudon, 1851. Goodsir, E. A. An Arctic Voyage to Baffin's Bay and Lancaster Sound in search of friends with Sir J. Franklin, in 1849. 8°. London, 1850. The Franklin Expedition. Considerations on Measures for the discovery and Eelief of our absent adventurers in the Arctic regions. London, 1850. Snow, W. P. Voyage of the Prince Albert in search of Sir J. Franklin in 1850. S^. London, 1851. Xfunedy, Wni. A short Narrative of the second Voyage of the Prince Albert, 1851. 8o. Sutherland, P. C, M. D. Journal of a Voyage in Baffin's Bay and Barrow Straits l)erformed in the years 1850-'51 by H. M. S. Lady Franklin and Sophia under Capt. AV. Penny in search of the Missing Ships Erebus and Terrcr. 2 vols. 8°. London, 1852. B(ll(»t. J. II. Journal d'un Voyage aux mers polaires execute par Lieut, de Vais- seau de la Marine Fran9aise, J. E. Bellot, a la recherche de Sir J. Franklin en 1851-'52. 8o. Paris, par jM. Julien Lemer. Memoirs of, with Journal. 2 v. 8°. London, 1855. Eevised by M. de la Eoquette : Soc. de Geographic de Paris. T'»-li . line and by Anderson who brought the first ncAvs of Franklin's expedition, and other returns which have not appeared in the form of narratives, Avill be found in the Parliamentary Papers,beginning with the Instructions to Franklin, in the Blue Books, and in the papers issued by the Admiralty Uydrographic Office. The re- ports and discussions of most value outside of these, will be found in the Journals and Bulletins of the European and American geographical societies ; especially in those of the Eoyal Geographical Society, London; the Bulletins de la Societe de Geographic, Paris ; the Annales de Voyage edited by Malte Brun, and the Jour- nal of the American Geographical Society, New York; and in Petermann's Geo- grajthische Mittheilungen. Copious references to all of these are given in " Die Lit«'ratur iiber der Polar Itegionen," edited for the K. K. Geographische Gesell- s(;haft, of Vienna, by Chavanue, Karpft", and Le IMonnier. 8°. Vienna, 1878. Chapter T. PREPARATORY WORK FOR THE SECOND EXPEDITION. SEPTEMBER, [m, TO DECIMBEK, ll{G2. 8. Ex. 27 1 CHAPTER I. PEEPAEATORY WOEK. Hall returns from his First Expedition — Telegraphs from St. John's, Newfoundland, EXPRESSING HIS PURPOSE OF A SECOND VoYAGE — WRITES TO Mr. GRINNT^LL FROM CIN- CINNATI, DESIRING TO PRESENT THE FrOBISHER ReLICS TO THE ENGLISH PEOPLE — HiS ABSTRACT OF DiLLON'S DISCOVERY OF THE ReLICS OF La PeROUSE'S EXPEDITION — STUDIES HaKLUYT, PuRCHAS, AND OTHER AUTHORITIES, AND FINDS PROOF OF THE GENUINENESS OF HIS DISCOVERIES — READS A PAPER BEFORE THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, AVOWING HIS PURPOSE OF RETURNING NORTH THE FOLLOWING SPRING — ACKNOWLEDG- MENT BY THE Royal Geographical Society of the receipt of the Relics — Cor- respondence WITH Mr. John Barrow and with Captain Becher, R. N.. resulting IN THE preparation OF A NEW ARCTIC A'OLUME BY ADMIRAL COLLIXSOX, R. N., FOR THE Hakluyt Society — Hall's account of his discoveries read before the Royal Geographical Society, London— Their genuineness contirmkd by Rae, Barrow, Markiiam, and Young — His abstract of the three Expeditions of Sir Martin Frobisher — Addenda. Hall's preparations for his Second Expedition, which this Narra- , tive is now to record, occupied a period of nearly two j^ears. The labors of those years, by demonstrating the successful results of his hrst voyage, and by the interest created through the publication of his "Arctic Researches", secured his second outfit. The purpose of the first voyage — to find the records of the Frank- lin Expedition, and, if possible, some of the survivors — was entirely defeated by the loss of his sole dependence — his boat. The purpose 4 The Franklin Boat-Creivs. was but stieiigtheiied by defeat. He gave proof of this before his arrival in the United States by a telegram from St. John's, Newfound- land, to his friends, Mr. Grinnell and Mr. Field, of New York, and Mr. Greenwood and Mr. Bishop, of Cincinnati; a dispatch which began with the words, "I am bound for the States to renew voyage'\ and which reads throughout more like news from an excursionist than from one who had been fighting his way through two Arctic winters. The forti- tude into which those severe experiences had disciplined him, seems to have shown itself steadily throughout the succeeding two years of working and waiting which are now to be traced. Arriving in New London September 13, 1862, and placing under the care of Capt. S. 0. Budington the Eskimos, Ebierbing {Joe) and Too- koo-U-too {Hannah), who had joined their fortunes with his own, two years before, Hall made a short visit to his family and to his earliest Arctic friends in Cincinnati. While there, his letters evinced much concern as to the opinions which the English people might form from the reports by the press of his late voyage, a hasty impression having been received from him that he had probably determined the fate of tw(. l)oats' crews of Franklin's Expedition. He had been led into this error by a i)arty of Sekoselar Innuits, but promptly corrected it in the coliuinis (jf the New York press, and, afterward, more fully in a paper read Ijefore the American Geographical Society and in the "Ai'ctic Re- searches." Ills apprehensions were that before the first correction could reach England the error would prejudice the English against the gen- uineness of the discoveries he had been making in the region visited by Sir Martin I'Vobislier tln-ee centuries l)efore. 'i'lie appreliciisioii proved to have been groundless. It had, how- The Proposed Visit to England. 5 ever induced Hall to decline lecturing in Cincinnati, and to entertain a new idea in regard to his discoveries and to the proper disposition of the valuable relics of Frobisher's Expedition, which he had found on this first voyage. Writing to Mr. Grinnell, he expressed his belief that he ought to go over immediately to England and present tliese to the English sovereign and people, as Captain Dillon in 1829 had presented the remains of La Perouse's Expedition to Charles X and to the French nation.* He naturally set a value on his late explorations, and had reason to suppose they would interest the English people. He believed that the account given by Frobisher himself of the country he had visited, was so indefinite that for nearly three hundred years the civilized world had been in doubt of the precise localities. Beste's Narrative to be found at that time only in Hakluyt's collection, and Barrow's history which Hall had in hand while traveling over the land, were proof enough of the indefiniteness of the geographical positions named by Frobisher. Up to the time of Hall's visit in 18Gl,no opportunity had been embraced for identifying these localities, orforconfirming the record of what Frobisher's three expeditions had reported as accomplished on * This lie had found fully noted in tlie "Narrative and Successful Result of a Voyage in the South, performed by order of the Government of British India to ascertain the actual fate of La Perouse's Expedition of 1785 ; made by Chevalier Capt. P. Dillon in 1828." His attention hav- iug been closely drawn to this history, he had made the following abstract, the italicized parts of which are those underscored in his manuscript, as arguments for his yet finding survivors of Franklin's party. "Louis XVI and the French nation having determined to contribute their share in enlarging our acquaintance with the globe and its inhabitants, ordered an exi)editioii to be fitted out in 1785, consisting of two of the finest French frigates. La Boussole and L'Astrolabe. Neither lalior nor expense was spared in completing the expedition, to which were attached some of the ablest and most scientific men of Europe. 'To secure the success of this enterprise the ships' companies of which numbered 240 souls, it was deemed necessary to select a man of the highest professional talent to command the expe- dition. La Perouse was chosen ; his distinguished naval exploits, scientific acquirements, and enterprising character having pointed him out as the fittest person to be thus honored. "The expedition sailed from Brest, August, 1785, and, after making discoveries in various 6 The Survival of La Perouse's Men. tliose shores. The Admiralty chart of 1 853 and that furnished for the volume of De Haven's Expedition, still had upon them the so-called "Strait" as reported by Frobisher, which was supposed to be a passage westward to the further part of Hudson's Bay; but navigators have always chosen Hudson's Straits in passing to and from that bay. Had any one attempted the passage through what was laid down on their charts as Frobisher's Strait, they might have anticipated Hall's dis- covery, coiTCCting Frobisher and proving this to be a Bay. But the language of nearly all of the geographical writers on Frobisher's voy- ages was obscure, and the charts of the first half of the century, inaccu- rate. Hall had reason for desiring to prove the genuineness of his dis- coveries, and he expressed a wish to place his proofs before a committee that might be appointed in London to examine his notes, his relics, and himself. Sir Martin's name was that of one of the first of Englishmen •luarters, anchored in Botany Bay January 26, 1788. Here La Perouse met with the Britisli squadron under Governor Phillijjs, and committed to him what proved to be his last dispatches for France. At the close of February the French set sail for further discovery, but nothing more was heard of La Perouse for thirty-eight years, when Captain Dillon, commanding a vessel sent in search of the remains of the lost expeditiou, ascertained the fate of the long lost navigator. Ou the island of Tucopia (Barnwell Island), lat. 12^^ 15' S., long. 169° W., Dillon, in 1826-'-27, obtained information that, many years before, two vessels had been wrecked near the island of Manicolo, within less tb«n one day's sail of Tucopia. Through Martin Burhart, a Prussian who had resided there fourteen years, Captain Dillon learned that many from the shipwrecked crews had escaped to the islands. He hastened to Manicolo and Ihere procured many relics from the natives; and, from the depths of the seas in which the vessel had been wrecked, incontrovertible proofs of their destruction forty years before; and at length he learned tliat many of the white men were saved, but that the last remnant of them had died only three years before, after surviving thirty-seren years from the time of the wreck. Ou the island of Manicolo had lived some of these survivors of the ill-fated expedition long after the world had given them up as dead. The expedition sent out by France, under Admiral Entrecasteau, in 17'Jl, had visited La Croix, a few leagues only from Mani- colo, where survivors of the lost ex]>edition were then living, and the inhabitants of both islands liad kept n\t constant intercourse with each other. Yet this expedition, which was out six years, gained no intelligence whatever of La Perouse, while by that fearful scourge scurvy, it lost ono hundred and twenty officers and men, though its voyage was mostly in the warm zone. "Dillon's men nund)ered 87 souls, and, at one time, nearly every one was prostrated by the discascfi of the tropical region. Still, in that clime— more inhospitable than that, surely, of King n'illiam'M Ixiud — ilid some nf La Perouse's companions survive for nearly forty years." Sir Mnrtiv Frohishrr. 7 to sail in quest of the Northwest Passage, and it was one of no less fame under Drake and Howard, for in 1588 lie wns knij^hted for service under the High Admiral against the Armada. Hall's enthusiasm Martinus Frobisherts, Eques Auratus. (From "The Three Voyages of Martin Frobisher,"' edited by Admiral Colliusou, K. N.) prompted him to say that the age of his Frobisher relies and the remarkable circumstances attending them stamped them as worthy gifts for Queen Victoria. Barrow had shown liim that tlio expcditlniis 8 Hall before the American Geographical Society. of Sir Martin were among the favorite objects of Elizabeth. She had shown her favor by her throwing around Sir Martin's neck a chain of gold, and by her letters of praise written to him. Conferring, however, with Mr. Grinnell after returning from Cincinnati, he decided to send the relics out to England, to the care of Mr. Cornelius Grinnell, in place of exhausting his own means and de- laying his plans by a visit to London. In the mean time, aj)plying himself closely at the rooms of the American Geographical Society and of the Astor Library to the old authorities Hakluyt, Purchas, and others, he had the satisfaction of further confirming his discoveries. After a study of some weeks previously to meeting the Geographical Society, he wrote to Budington: I find much that is valuable in proving that the rehcs are, beyond all ques- tion, Frobisher's. It will perhaps startle you to hear that one of his vessels went into the bay I call Ward's bay, through Beare Sound. It may be the English will dispute my discoveries, but I covet the opportunity to show the facts. Opportunity for this was early afforded. At the meeting of the American Geographical Society, held, as at that time was usual, in the hall of the Historical Society, of New York, he was introduced by Mr. Grinnell and made a report which will be found noted in "the Pro- ceedings", under the title of "An abstract of a Paper on some Arctic Discoveries." In this paper, after referring to his statements before the society made two years previously. Hall re-stated in full that the original pur- pose of his late voyage was to visit King William's Land and Boothia, and there spend two years, if needed, in gathering materials for con- cluding in a more satisfactory way the history of Franklin's Expedi- tion ; to recover the logs of the ships Erebus and Terror, with all other manuscripts belonging to that expedition; and, especially, to rescue The Frobisher Colorty. 9 some lone survivor or survivors that peradventure might be found living with the Eskimos. He then gave an account of Messrs. Williams and Haven's generously free conveyance to Northumberland Inlet of liim- self and his Eskimo companion, Kud-lar-go, with his boat, provisions, and stores; of his boat being wrecked the September following; and of his long residence with the natives, during which he had ingratiated himself witli them, adopting their style of dress, living in their snow huts, and feeding on their raw whale-skin, walrus and seal meat. With some exultation, he said that in September, 1861, he had landed on an island which the Innuits and their ancestors from time immemorial had called Kodlunarn, or White Man's Island, from tlio tradition that strangers had lived there and tried to escape fl-om it; — on which island he had found remains of stone houses, coal, iron, and glass, all covered with the moss of ages; and that he had visited every accessible place named by the Eskimos as connected with the fate of the strangers living there, as they said, ''many, many years ago." He added his convictions that he had thus been the first to revisit the pre- cise localities of Frobisher's three expeditions of 1576, '77, and '78, and quoted from Haklu5^t and other works in which the materials taken out by Frobisher for the erection of stone houses and everything necessary for the colony of one hundred men are detailed; and he exhibited the specimens which he had brought from the ruins, asking the Geographical Society to inspect them rigidly in evidence for or against his statements. He then showed that during his two years' northern residence, lie had explored over one thousand miles of coast, making as careful a surve}^ as his means and instruments permitted, and proving that the water which had for three centuries been called Frobisher's Strait was 10 The Belies Indorsed as Genuine. a wide bay. He added, " Inasmuch as I have failed in the great object for which I went out, it is my intention to try again in the following spring." The Eskimo family, Ebierbing, Too-koo-li-too, and their child, Tu-ker-li-ke-ta (the Butterfly), who had come down from Groton in their full arctic dresses of deer and seal skin, were introduced to the audience. They exhibited a variety of costumes and implements, and with their young child were the objects of much interest, and were called on for many replies to questions interpreted to them by Hall. Valuable donations of relics were sent to the Smithsonian Institution. A part of the geological collections was presented to the New York Lyceum of Natural History, and was the subject of brief reports to the lyceum by Mr. Iv. P Stevens and Mr. Thomas Egleston. [An account of this, and a discussion of another part of his collections, afterward presented to Amherst College by J. J. Copp, Esq., of Groton, Conn., will be found in Appendix III, illustrated by drawings of some of the fossils. This discussion, by Prof B. K. Emerson, of Amherst College, is indorsed by Prof C A. White, of the United States Geolog- ical Survey of the Territories, as a desirable addition to our knowledge of the mineralogical and geological character of the Arctic Regions.] A number of other relics were exhibited at the residence of Mr. lleiuy Grinnell for some time before their transmission to England. At the close of the year they were presented to the English people, through the Royal Geographical Society, London, whose acknowledgment of their receipt names: 3 cases and 1 cask of relics; and I piece of iron weighing 20 pounds. Hall sent with them a carefully prepared out- line sketch of Frobisher's Bay, and three diagram maps, one being that ot the (Jduiitess of Warwicke Sound of Frobisher. In connection Correspondence with Barroir led the Father of Modern Arctic Enterprise, witli Commander A. li. Hcclicr, R N., of the Admiralty, and with Mr. C. R. Markham, tlien, as now, one of the Secretaries of tlie Royal Geographical Societ}-, makiiin- close inquiries in regard to such points in Frobisher's ]nst()r\- as >\ ci-e inaccessible to him, the manuscripts to be consulted being found onU- in the British Museum. His letters are in evidence of his earnest desire to possess him- self of every fact in the history. The correspondence contains geo- graphical notes of intrinsic value, and shows that his claims as a discoverer were promptly admitted on the transparent consistency of the details given in his letter before the reception of his charts and relics. Commander Becher had published the results of his own investi- gations of Frobisher's voyages in an elaborate paper in the Journal of the Royal Greographical Society (vol. 12, 1842). On receiving Hall's letter to Barrow, he wrote to Hall : ''I have no douht of your relics being those left by Frobisher's party. Warwicke Island and Sound were the principal resort of the voyagers. I j^erceive that your lati- tude and mine of Queen Elizabeth's Foreland are pretty near each other " This correspondence produced an incidental result which lias proved valuable to geograph}^ and to the libraries of our da}'. Cap- tain Becher's purpose expressed in his letter to Hall, to urge upon the Hakluyt Society the issuing of a worthy reprint of Frobisher's jour- nals, accorded with the general sentiment expressed by the editor ot the 12 CoUinson^s Volume PiihlishecL Geographical Society's Journal, when publishing, in 1842, the paper to wliicli reference has been made : "That it was not creditable to England to have done so little for preserving and rendering available the records of the navigation of Frobisher's age." The explorations of Hall and the correspondence now referred to resulted in the preparation by Admiral Collinson, R. N., for the Hakluyt Society, of a new and valu- able volume of Frobisher's voyages. Admiral Collinson, C. B. — now holder Brother of Trinity House, London — well known as himself an eminent Arctic explorer, has given in this volume a reprint from the first rare edition of Hakluyt's voyages, with selections from manu- s(iij)ts and documents in the British Museum and in the State Paper Office, accompanied by two rare old maps and a picture of Sir Martin. The work, issued in 1867, was cordially dedicated "to Henry Grin- nell, of New York, as a tribute of respect and admiration not only for liis conduct and generous co-operation in the search for Sir John Franklin and his companions, but for the interest he had shown in, and tlie aid he had afforded to. Polar exploration in the present day." In the introduction to this work, Admiral Collinson said : In the appendix will be found a list of the relics of the Frobisher Expedi- tion brought home by Mr. C. F. Hall in 1863, which are now deposited at the Ifoyal Geograi)hical Society; and I am one of those that believe that his exer- lions in exploring King William's Land for the joiuiials and records of the Frank- lin IL\i)edition will be attended with success. When this island was visited by Sir L. McClintock and Captain Ilobson the ground was covered with snow. Mr. Hall iiitoiMls ])as8ing the summer upon it, and the knowledge he has obtained of the Ei>kimo language and character diu-ing his two years' residence in Frobisher liay will enable him to gain their confidence. The catalogue of relics referred to b}^ Admiral Collinson occupies, witli its l)i'iof accompanying note, eight pages of this new Frobisher volume. It is signed by C. F. Hall, and dated from New York, Febru- HalVs Pamper Read before the Royal Geographieal Soeietij, London. 18 aiy 7, 1863. At the tenth meeting of the Koyal Geographical Society for that year, held April 1.'*, a paper prepared by him to be lead on the receipt of the relics was presented from Mr. 11. Grinnell, and read by the Secretary of the society, Dr. Norton Shaw. This i)aper and the discoveries reported in it elicited the commendations of Sir \l. Mm-chison, President of the society, and of the Arctic explorers. Sir George Back, Capt. Sherard Osborn, and Dr. Rae, and occasioned the following letter from Mr. John Barrow : 17 Hanover Terrace, Begenfs Park, April IGth, 18G3. To C. F. Hall: Sir : I should sooner have answered your letter of 25tli of February, but there has beeu a longer delay than 1 expected in the reading of your irdpav owing to the Easter hoUdays. It was read on Monday evening at the Eoyal Geographical Society in a very crowded meeting, many being unable to get seats. In consequence of a weakness in my throat I was compelled to give up all idea of reading it myself, as the room is ill adapted for hearing, being long and narrow, and the speaker fronting his audience in the centre ; consequently at the ends of the rooui it is not easy to command attention. However, our secretar\'. Dr. Norton Shaw, read it right well. He took great pains, and 1 assure you you might have heard a pin drop during the whole time. The paper was very a\ ell received, but as it was rather long and another paper to come on, the discussion was limited. Dr. Eae fully corroborated your statement of reliance to bo ])hicc(l on Eskimo statements and traditions. 1 have sent you a report of tlic juoceediugs given in the Times.* Of course, it is very abridged. Cornelius Grinnell was present, and will doubtless write to you fully. * [Extract from a letter to Mr. Henry Grinnell.] * * * I send you the Times of the 15th instant, which gives a longer account Ihan is usual for them to publish of the meeting of the Royal Geographical Society. I wish you had been there to hear the eulogy pronounced upon you by Sir Roderick Murchison and Captain Osborn, aud the manner in which it was received by the audience. The report in the Times gives but a faint idea of what was said. It was enough to make any of your family feel proud. It seemed as if Osborn could not say too much of the obligation 1 4 l^n couragemen t. As regards the final disposal of the Frobisher relics, I think they shoidd either be placed in Greenwich Hall or in the Royal United Service Institution with the Franklin relics. Although your letter has been unanswered it has not been neglected. Mr. Major, of the British Museum, whom 1 met at the Geographical Society, is getting all tlie extracts you require made for you, and they will shortly be ready. Believe mc, my dear sir, with best wishes for your success in your next enterprise, yours \'ery truly and with great respect, JOHX BAEROW. The action of the Royal Geographical Society and the courteous and encouraging letters received from such officers as have been named, proved further incentives to Hall to prepare for a return to the fields of exploration. His disappointment in not receiving a single volume of the Hakluyt series, for which he asked in the correspondence with the secretar}^ of the Hakluyt Society, was compensated for by a loan of the whole, at a later date, from the library of Mr, J Carson Brevoort, of Brookh'n, L. I. The charts which he needed were courteously forwarded by Captain Becher, of the Admiralty, during the ensuing season, through the British consul at New York. and indebtedness of every Englishman to you and of the admiration of your liberaltyand philan- thropy. The whole atiair passed off most satisfactorily. Sir George Back spoke in high terms of Mr. Hall's perseverance and energy, and had no doubt that the relics were those of Frobisher. Rae, Barrow, Young, Markham, and several others also expressed the same opinion. It was thought best to strike out that portion of the paper relating to the supposed remains of Sir John Franklin's expedition, as it would be painful to the feelings of their relations. Rae strongly corrol»orated the remarks of Mr. Hall regarding the truthfulness of the traditions of the natives. Tin- relics will be for the ]»resent exhibited in the society's rooms, lor inspect ion of scienlific men, until their fmal disposition, which is in the hands of Sir R. Murchison and Mr. Brown. If was deliglitful to witness the respect and kind feeling exhibited by the eminent discov- ereru pn-slaced for the Naval Observatory in the Government building at the late United States Centennial. The ore is sometimes called Fool's Gold. HI. The iiuthor of the latest account of Frobisher's voyages says of Hall: Nearly three centuries elapsed before the Countess's Sound and Island were again visited by an Anglo-Saxon, and he was an American. In 18Gl-'2 Captain C. F. Hall spent two years among the Eskimos. The Countess's Island he found to be called Kodlunarn, or the island of the white man. The account he received from tlie natives of Frobisher's visits is a curious confirmation of the value of tnulit ion among savage peoples. Captain Hall Iiad not then read any narrative of the Admiral's three voyages, and heard the traditions as a new and strange tale, whieh he was not then in a position to test or correct. Jle was told that the white; men's ships had come, first tw'O, then three, then many. The wliite mcii had taken away two of their women, who had never come back. Many fragments of briek, tiles, iron, et cetera, were shown him. Beste's I5ulwark wa-^ trared. The small house of lime and stone had been well built, for Addenda to HaJVs Notes. 19 Captain Hall found it after the three centuries, in a good state of preservation. Tliey told him also how that their peoi)le had capturcid five of the white men; that they had wintered among them. Then they showed him an excavation on Kodhiiiarn eighty-eight feet long and six feet deep, which the while men had dug, wliile on the shore was an inclined trench or slij). Here the five captive English- liien, having dug up the buried timbers of the Fort, built a large boat, which had a mast in her, with sails. Their boat had proved to bo a floating collin; for, according to the natives, the Englishmen having finished their cralt, set sail too early in the season 5 some froze their hands in the attempt ; yet they had finally set out, and had never been seen afterwards. Such was the sequel of the story of the five Englishmen who had fallen vic- tims to their love of peltry dimug the first voyage of the 'Gabriel'; and thus were identified the island and long sought port of the third voyage, where the first English Colony was attempted on the American Continent. (Life of Martin Fro- bisher, with a narrative of the Armada: Eev. F. Jones. London, 1878.) IV. In the excellent "Collection of Historical Tracts," made by the late Col. Peter Force, of Washington, to be found in the library of the State Department, may be seen the "Neues of Walter Raleigh"; in which tract is a very curious notice of Frobisher's. voyages and of their influence on Thomas Cavendish, or "Candish," of London, in determining him, A. D. 1586, to set out on his voyage around the world. Cavendish was the second Englishman who made such a voyage. Drake, in 1578, had attempted to solve the i^roblem of the Northwest Passage, reaching lat. 48° N. only on the western coast of America. Uhapter JJ- PREPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE COMPLETED; HALL SAILS FROM NEW LONDON FOR ST. JOHNS. DECEMBER, 1862, TO JULY, 1864. CHAPTER II. Hall lectures for his personal support and that of the two Eskimos— His care OF these people ; death of Tuk-ee-li-kee ta — Friends gained for the Second Expe- dition— Plan of an Expedition submitted by Hall, March 17, 1863, to Mr. Grin- nell and R. H. Chapell, of New London, Conn. — Hall's preference for a plan which would not include whaling — Financial difficulties — Embarrassments in forming new friendships — determination to go out a second time, even for an absence of ten years — Expectation of finding new whaling grounds— Corre- spondence ON this subject with Mr. R. H. Chapell and Professor Bache, Superin- tendent United States Coast Survey — Disappointment as to assistance from the legislature and from the New York Chamber of Commerce— Failure to obtain A loan of instruments from the government — Card to the public, postponinc^ THE Expedition to another year — Hall resumes work on the "Arctic Re- searches"— Lectures before the Long Island Historical Society — May, ld64. RENEWS HIS APPEAL, INDORSED BY LEADING CITIZENS— LOANS OF INSTRUMENTS— FREE PASSAGE TENDERED BY Mr. CHAPELL— HOSPITABLE RECEPTION AT NEW LONDON — SAILS FOR St. .John's. His first expedition having secured an honorable place in history, Hall now entered upon a course of lectures, chiefly with the design of convincing the public of his probable success on renewing exploration ; but with the additional reasons found in the necessity for securing support for himself and for his two Eskimo friends. He seems to have been carefully mindful of their welfare. "Everything," he wrote to Captain Budington, "must be done to protect the health of these peo- ple ; the assistance which I hope to receive from them on my sledge trip is too important for us to relax our exertions to have them com- fortable." For their benefit he accepted offers of compensation for 23 24 HalVs Lectures. their temporarv attendance at museums in New York and Boston ; but, on learning' their personal discomfort, incident to a close and heated atmospliere, he followed the advice of friends in refusing his consent f(»r their presence at any other lectures than his own ; and this as more consistent with the character of his work. I)uriiiL;- the months of December, 1862, and January, 1863, lec- tures in Providence, Norwich, Hartford, New Haven, Hudson, Elmira, and other cities secured the attendance of large audiences. Among the prominent citizens of Providence who invited him to that city were II(^n. II. B. Anthony, President Sears of Brown University, Hon. ,]. \l Bartlett, Prof J. B Angell, Gov. J. Y. Smith, Ex-Gov. E. Dyer, and )[ai W. M, Kodman. After the Arctic lecture in Hartford, Professor Silliman indorsed Hall's work and his proposals for a new expedition by saying, in the Hartford Courant : Mr. Hall possesses much knowledge not found in books, the fruits of his own experience ; the discoveries he has made in the Polar Eegions are regarded Ity ;:<'(»grai)liers as of decided importance. Indeed, he did not himself reahze tliai importance until since his return after more than two years' exile. No civ- ilized man has, heretofore, been able to identify himself so completely with the Eskimos. Speaking their language and adopting their modes of life and of voyaging, lie is enabliid to reach with safety, and even with comfort, regions liitlniici (Irciiicd iii;HC('ssil)lo. Old Martin Frobisher has become redivivus under tin- \»'iy micxjxMicd revelations now made. At these ('(niversational lectures Hall traced on his maps of the ln( ajities lie liad visited, the tracks of the old voyagers Frobisher, Davis, Hailiii, and others, as well as his own late explorations. The l'nit(- near to the Pole, was always saluted by the audience; and the Ivsklnio family were objects of much interest as HaWs Lectures. 25 among tlie first of their nice who had domiciled in the United States. Too-koo-h-too showed an unexpected knowledge of the geography of her country, reminding Arctic students of the native woman Iligliuh, and of her cliart drawn for Parry. The lecturer himself could not claim the polish or the ease of oratory, but as he handled his subject with tact as well as enthusiasm, he succeeded in seeming close atten- tion on the part of the audience, and was ready to answer numerous inquiries. His friends regretted that, under a general rule against all pay lectures, the Smithsonian Institution could not give him the use of the audience room in which Kane and Hayes had lectured, for he had hoped to interest the officers of the Government at Washington, and obtain an appropriation, and had been encouraged towards this by prominent men. He seems to have been wholly unable to realize how small is the circle of the liberal for scientific purposes and how nar- rowed that circle was at the time by the war. He solicited the aid of the Hon. Henry Wilson, of the United States Senate, to obtain an ap- propriation by Congress of $25,000. The proceeds of the lectures were by no means encouraging. He had proof of their having secured man}?- friends in eminent positions, but as to the pecuniary gain '4ie was even worse off than when he started out." The necessary expenses generally devoured the pro- ceeds of admission fees, made low to suit the war times. Contrary to the general supposition, nothing at all adequate to the support of his Eskimos was ever realized from this source ; the contributions for them from Mr. Grinnell, however, exceeded six hundred dollars, and other generous friends not unfrequently volunteered their aid. In despite of discouragements. Hall still pushed forward his plans, publishing his first outlines of them in the columns of the New York 26 Sanguine Hopes. Journal of Commerce, December 3, 1862 Very probably a sanguine temperament, excited sometimes by even a few strong words of sym- l»athy from friends, prompted him to give unwarranted weight to such words. xVs a picture of his feelings and of his way of recording his experiences, a single extract is given from a letter written at this date : "My heart is too full to record the happiness of a meeting to-night. Mr. Grinnell's whole family are so deeply devoted to my renewed expedition, that Mr. G. and his wife offer their son, now in the United States Xaw, to go with me to King William's Land, and, if need be, he will contribute Si 0,000 to insure a research. 'There must be some- thing more done,' he said, 'in search of Franklin's Expedition.'" "When P^ngland hears of this," Hall wrote to Budington, "I would not wonder if other expeditions should follow." This last expression ^^ n.< made at a time when the English GoA^ernment were adhering to their iinal refusal for all further search. The subject was not, indeed, revived in any official form until the unsuccessful proposi- tions of 1865 were discussed by the Royal Geographical Society, after Hall liad ajjain sailed. Had he not been sincere in his statements that his object was primarily the relief of Franklin's party, he would hardly hav<.' laid this stress upon tlie hope that other expeditions Avould come out from England for the same object. I lis ))rivate note-books and diaries are trustworthy witnesses of the intiuences under wjiicli he brought his thoughts during this period <»f .study and personal preparation. The following selections are taken from one of these books, which contain chiefly extracts and careful ref- eri-nccsto scientific autliorities : Oni ..i.:,i.>i ^l(,iy consists not in never Jalliiif?, but in rising every time we '•'II- * TIm* (piestion is not the number of facts a man knows, but hou mncli of :i i;iri lie is liiuisell". # * # Great personal activity at ^■ c;-4^^^ C^X..y*^,^^r^ From a photograph in the possession of Charles H. Grundy, Esq., New York. Private Notes. 27 times and closely sedentary and severely thoughtful habits at other times, are the forces by which men accomplish notable enterprises. They mature i)laiis, after which, ^vith energies braced to their work, they move to the easy conquest of difficulties accounted formidable. Some of these apothegms copied from a rare volume loaned to him by his friend Mr. J. D. Caldwell, of Cincinnati, are found em- phasized for his own impress by being underscored almost word by word ; nor did he fail to note at length in his diary the sentiments of Professor Henry expressed in his communication to the Board of Re- gents of the Smithsonian Institution in 1857 in regard to his di.scoveries in electro-magnetism, that "he had freely given the results of his labors to the world, expecting only in retitrn to enjoy the conscious- ness of having added to the sum of human happiness." He noted down also the sentiment expressed by Smithson himself, that every man is a valuable member of society, who by his obsei*\^ations, re- searches, and experiments procures knowledge for men. To the encouragements offered by more able and influential friends were added those from Captain Budington and his wife, whose kindly messages from their humble home in Groton, Conn., were frequent, and were plainly effective on his spirits and on his labors. These at this time were very arduous. On the 27tli January, 1863, he wrote to Budington from his quarters on Fourth street, New York, where he was "near the libraries and Mr. Grinnell : " There is such a vast amount of work on my hands that it becomes my duty to ask if it is possible for me to make arrangements by which you can again take the Eskimos into your family. Were it not that I Iiave a book on hand, and also preparation for another voyage in four mouths from now, I would not ask this. At Elmira they had taken severe colds, and Hall found he could do notliing but nurse the sick, while in addition to his cares was the 28 Conference for the Second Voyage. death of tlu-ir infant iKk-ce-li-Jie-ta, born to this Eskimo couple in Rescue Bay, September 0, 1861. He records in liis journal his sym- j)athy with the mother, who was herself thought to be near death, but who rallied and attended her child's funeral at Groton. The health of these people was excellent for some time after their arrival in the United States, but the change of food and of climate began sensibly to atlect the '' icy children of the North." On tlic 17th March, 1863, an anxiously-awaited conference w^as Ijeld witli Ml-. Grinnell and Mr. R. H. Chapell, of the house of AVill- iams lit Haven, at wliich Hall presented the following first notes for his second expedition: Proposed expedition to Boothia and King WilliamK^ Land for the final determination of all the imjsterions matters relative to Sir John Franldin''s Expedition. I. A vessel of about 200 tons, to be furnished and provisioned for two years and six months, the same to be under my command. II. This vessel to be fitted out for whaling, the object being to have the whole expense of the expedition paid by the proceeds of whale bone and oil. III. This vessel to go on or before the 1st of June of the present year, to make direct for the north side (near the entrance of Frobisher's Bay), there to take aboard thi-ee or foiu' Eskimos, with their wives, also sledges and dogs; then to make for Ilud.son's Strait ; thence to Hudson's Bay, west side, south of South- amjtton Island; thence up the channel of Sir Thomas Howe's Welcome to Repulse Bay. 1 \'. H whales are found on the way, to secure as many as possible, yet no further delay to be allowed than will admit of getting into Eepulse Bay by or on the 1st of Sejitember of the same year as starting. y . If it is judged advisable under certain contingencies for the vessel to pro- ceed at ()nc<' to otlier wliale grounds than that of Repulse Bay, she must do so aft«'r liaving landed me and my special i)arty and outfit for land service, to wit, for my expedition from Repulse Bay to King William's Land. VI. Three men fioin the States to be my special party, to wit: Walter Grin- n<'ll, of N(.-\\ V(.ik ; I'raiiU IJngers, of Xcw London, Conn., and William Sterry, Plans Submitted. 29 of Grotoii, of the same State; also, to be of the same special party, the I'^skiinos Ebierbiiig- and Too-koo-li-too, whom I brought to the States, thr hittci- to be iii\ interpreter. VII. Sterry and a part of the natives I take from Frobisher's Bay, to Ix- kit at the head of Repulse Bay, in charge of a depot of provisions to be established there. Furthermore, the duty of Sterry and the natives to hunt and capture- seals and walrus, and barter Avith the natives around Repulse Bay for walrus ivory, Polar bear, fox, wolf, and other skins, for the l)enelit of all concerned. VIII. A cheap frame house, to be constructed (portable) here in the States, the same to be landed at Repulse Bay, and to be used there for storing provisions therein, and also as a residence and for headquarters. (Such houses arc now used by whalers in Northumberland Inlet. IX. Providing such an emergency arise that I should he ohliged to retreat from Boothia and King William's Land and seek provisions, and also for a place to recruit, I should be certain of tinding the same at all times at Repulse Bay depot. X. Occasionally to send an Eskimo friend, with sledge draAvn by dogs, from Boothia and King William's Land to headquarters at Repulse Bay for anything that I might require. Without doubt I shall have occasion to send to Re])ulse Bay many packages of relics I may find of Sir John Franklin's Expedition. If I have the great good fortune to discover the Ships Erebus and Terror's papers, it will be my duty to accomj)any the same in their transport to Repulse Bay. After securing these as treasures of untold value to the civilized world, I am then to return to King William's Land and Boothia and prosecute the search. Should I be still more fortunate, and should I find living among the Eskimos one or several of Sir John Franklin's men, my heart, overwhelming with unspeakable joy, will direct me then and there what is best to be done. XL Provisions of the most condensed character, such as pemmican, Bor- den meat, biscuit, desiccated meat, and vegetables, to be pro\aded for the Repulse Bay depot ; also, a proper quality of flour, sea-bread, ammunition, guns, astronom- ical and other instruments, medicines, clothing, a Haklet boat, &c., &c., including proper articles for bartering with the natives and for compensating the services I may require of them ; perhaps it may be well to add wood and coal to these articles, the same to be used as fuel at Repulse Bay headquarters. XIL By establishing headquarters at Repulse Bay as indicated above, hav- ing there a whale-boat strongly constructed, and having there also Frobisher Bay Eskimos, there need to he no hinder ance to the force employed on the vessel from prose- cuting to the fullest extent that branch of the expedition, to wit, whaling. 30 Plans Submitted. Xni. Should such success be met with that the vessel becomes filled with whale oil and bone before I have completed my research for the object and at the point designed, the same to be reshipped l)y some other vessel to the States, or the vessel to be sent home, taking along my dispatches and such relics as I may have recovered ; said ^'essel to sail from the States the following spring for Eepulse Bay. XIV. The whole expenses of the expedition to be paid from the proceeds of the whaling branch, proWding the amount warrants it. XY. The expenses of the research department to be included in the first cost of the vessel, outfit, &c. XVI. This expedition to be known as "The Franklin Eesearch Expedition"; the minor details of it only to be understood by the parties most deeply interested. XVII. By having a boat's crew at Eepulse Bay headquarters shore- whal- ing could be prosecuted. One boat's crew might be made up of the natives. The policy of adopting this scheme could be determined on acquiring information of the natives at Eepulse Bay whether or not it is a good whaling ground. Mr. Grinnell and Mr. Chapell approved the general ideas pre- sented in this plan. It will be observed, however, that the returns for the proposed outlay were to be looked for from successful adventure in whaling, in which feature Hall was encouraged to place confidence by conversations held a short time previously with his friends in New London. The outlay would involve the sum of 820,000, and the first ideas entertained at the meeting just named, limited the contributions for this object chiefly to the generous co-operation of Mr. Grinnell, Messrs. Williams & Haven, and Mr. Chapell. Notwithstanding their unquestionable sincerity and their mutual confidence in Hall, of whom Mr. Grinnell, at this meeting, said, " He is the man of all the world to be sent foi-tli on the mission to solve the mysteries enshrouding the fate ol" I'raiikliirs nicii," it could hardly be expected that these enthu- sia.stic hopes of immediate equipment could be realized. Mr. Grinnell had spent between £20,000 and £30,000 on the Franklin Rehef Expe- ditions, and had already met with commercial reverses during the war, Hall ivUl go Alone if he Must 81 amounting-, at that date, it is believed, to nearly $500,000. It was no time for either of the commercial houses to take risks. Ten days later. Hall drew up in detail six new plans, differing- in their estimates and in the question whether the vessel of the expedi- tion should be employed in whaling or in exploration only. On the first of these, which contemplated exclusively the search for Franklin's party and the object of geographical discovery, he indorsed, " If there were a possibility of raising the amount of $20,000 involved in this plan, it should be accepted and carried out "; on the second, which he called "The Combination Research and Whaling Expedition", he indorsed, " Taking into consideration all the circumstances of the times, I believe this the most feasible^'' He strongly expressed him- self, however, as unwilling!}^ converted to the idea of the second plan, considering it distasteful to unite the object of whaling with the search for Sir John Franklin's party. Submitting the first plan to Mr. Grinnell as one to be exclusively in his name and at his cost, Hall received the unavoidable reply that he did not feel that his means would justify his investing the amount indicated. The four last propositions dispensed with the idea of providing a special vessel, and differed within themselves chiefly in regard to the numbers of the party who might go out in a whaler. Among many offers from those who proposed to share his voyage, was one from Mr Washington Peale, an artist of New York, whom Hall would gladly have had to accompany him. The sixth memorandum, which he called his "Last Alternative", provided for his going out alone in a whaler and being landed wherever the natives should be met with, to 32 HalVs Ahility and Industry. make his way as best he could to Repulse Bay and thence to Boothia and King- WilHam's Land. His journal entry about this date, made after a series of disap- pointments during the day, has the significant paragraph: "Again I may say the want of luster on my habiliments precludes me from in- terviews with those from whom I would gain knowledge ; not so of Mr. Grinnell ; he knows I am poor, and yet he always treats me as if I were rich." It may here be noted that while Hall made like honorable exceptions in connection with the names of other generous friends, there is evidence that his scanty means at times produced the errone- ous impression on the minds of some that he was an ignorant person. He felt the lack of what, he says, makes men w^orthy of respect in the eyes of many. But although lacking in the culture that a collegiate course for which he had been prepared would have conferred, Hall had the advantages of a New England academic education, built upon the qualities of strong common sense, industry, and perseverance, and these had fitted him to grasp the subject he was pursuing. It ought further to be said that the ship captain with whom he sailed on his first voyage, unhesitatingly declared that he had made himself a fair navi- gator on the outward course, having availed himself of what opportu- nities he could command for receiving practical instruction in New Xork Ijefore sailing. On his return he had presented to Mr. J. Inger- soll I^owditch the corrections of a number of typographical and other cnoi-s In "'I'he Navigator," which were adopted in the subsequent edi- tions, in regard 1«> wliicli corrections he had replied to an inquiry from Mr. (I. W. Blunt b\- s;i\ iuu" that "lie had made them while working tliroiiL;li Howditcli during a winter in the igloos." For reposing con- Inquiries as to Whalimj. 33 fidence in his ])l{tns, liis friends, therefore, luid reasons id this time seemingly as solid as those which, at a later date, i)r(>iiii)t((l tlie learned members of the National Academy of Sciences to say in their instructions for the Polaris Expedition — We have, however, full contideiice not only in the ability of Captain Hall and his Naval associates to make important additions to the geography of the Polar Eegions, but also in his interest in science and his determination to do all in his power to assist in determining the scientific operations. If he was enthusiastic in the extreme, there was some method in his enthusiasm. It marks a strongly determined purpose that he should write in his private journal, in connection with his feelings as quoted above — I may record my opinion that I cannot succeed in getting the necessary co- operation of my countrymen to carry out my proposed expedition. God only knows my struggles. But, single handed anootliia Peninsula till T arrive to the latitude of King William's Land, the latter l)eing the point of my destination. On (Mjmpleting my investigations here and on the Isthmus of Boothia Felix, relative to Sir John Franklin's Expedition, I shall make my way for Behring's Strait by way of the Straits of James C. Ross, Dease and Simpson, Dolphin and L'nion. If I am not able to penetrate through the Strait of Fury & Hecla, shall turn to the south to Repulse Bay, drop anchor, and establish headquarters ; then from this jjoint, l)y means of dogs and sledges, and the aid of Eskimos, shall Hiakj.' journeys to Boothia Isthmus and King William's Land. The voyage I pro- IX)se to make will extend over three years. Respectfnllv, C. F. HALL. The sanj^uine hopes expressed in this letter were, however, again to ))<■ (lisap[>ointed. It is unnecessary to detail the continued embarrass- ment.s and rcbiifTs which Ijroiight this result; they had nearly culmi- nated when Hall made tlic journal entries which have been quoted. Disairpointmcnts 37 His insurmomitablu difficulties at tlic time may be referred to in brief as these : Although, at the instance of Judge Daly and of Mr. Waddell, the secretary of the American Geographical Society, its council had made two efforts to hold a conference with the Chamber of Commerce of New York to indorse the plans referred to, and secure pecuniary assist- ance for them, it was found impossible to get together a quorum of the Chamber for n hearing. A second disappointment was met with in the failure to secure, either from the Navy Department or from the Smithsonian Institution, the loan of instruments for the expedition. The Navy Department did not feel authorized to loan the public property for use by a private expedition. ^Ilie Smithsonian regretted that the magnetic apparatus furnished to Dr. Kane had been after- ward lost in Mexico; and in communicating this information added that "scarcely any results could be obtained, unless some one properly educated for the business of observation should devote his whole time to the instruments." The Institution inquired at considerable length whether Hall would not find it in his power to make extensive col- lections in natural history, as it possessed but little on that subject from Northeastern America. Hoping for assistance by a grant from the Chandler of Conmierce or by the City Council of New York, and encouraged by some dona- tions. Hall had anchored at the wharves of the city, on the same day, The Active, a schooner offered at a low price by his New London friends, and a yacht, presented by Capt H. Robinson, of Newburg, N. Y., for the strengthening of which latter vessel lumber had been also contributed in Newburg, and a furtlier most generous offer had been made for its e(iuipment l)y Messrs Poillou, of New York. He 38 Card Issued. had also made an arrangement with Messrs. Harper, the generous pub- hshers of his forthcoming "Researches," by which he had leave to post- pone further work iq)on tlie volume until his return from his proposed vo)-age But the local embarrassments and the excitement growing out of the opposition to the enforcement of the Registration act, passed to secure the necessary enlistments of soldiery for the existing war, appear to have entirely withdrawn attention from all subjects of less moment tliau the engrossing war-topics, and to have closed off the increase of private contributions. Hall had met more than one citizen able and willing to put good wishes into the form of that practical aid for which New York is well noted; but they were restrained by such feelings as Horace Greeley expressed in strong terms when he said to him, "No other idea should now be entertained by any man who loves his coun- try except crushing the rebellion; when that is accomplished one might take hold of an Arctic expedition." The New London schooner was, therefore, returned to her owners, and the yacht Victoria, with the lumber contributed by Mr. John Biglow, was sold, that its proceeds might be invested for use during the next available season. The time necessary for preparing an expedition for the year 1863 having iKtw passed away, Hall, thus hopelessly hemmed in by obstacles as iiisui-iii<»uiital)](' as the ice-masses he had left two years before, devoted himself laboriously to the completion of his book, and issued tlie following card : New York, July 10, 1SC3. Til 11)1/ Count rj/inrii : W'liilc on my Ar<-lic voynjic. ol" ISOO-'fU-'dL*, I ]tl;iiiiiO(l anotlior expedition for l.S(J.'}. On iclMiiiinii to tin- St;it<'s last S('i)t«'nil)('i- (ISdi!) I stoi)iKMl at St. .lolin's, Newfoundland, and tlicic liisl learned thai my (.'ouiitry was engaged in war. At The Expedition Postponed to 18G4. 39 once I felt there could be but slight hope of resuming- my Arctic exploriitions at the time i)roi)osed. Arriving in the States, and s])ending a few weeks among friends devoted to Arctic exi)lorations, I came to the conclusion to spare no exer- tions in preparing for my second expedition to the Arctic Seas. In my struggle to make the proper preparations I have labored long and perseveringly, the results ofttimes appearing hopeful of my ultimate success. I need only to refer to the stupendous obstacle (the American war) that has been constantly before me during all my labors; for the subject is absorbing the attention of the whole civil- ized world. I deeply regret to say that, owing to the want of sufiicient means and the lateness of the season, I am now compelled to postpone my exi)edition till next year. In the mean time I shall proceed to prepare my narrative of my late voyage (18G0-'61-'62) for publication, and at the same time take such steps as will insure the necessary aid for my expedition to the Arctic Eegious, now postponed to the spring of 18G4. Hall's feelings in regard to the labor called for upon his book will be learned from a single expression in a letter of October 20, 1863: " I have been deeply engaged for weeks and months upon my chart, and yet am not done with it. I had rather make a dozen voyages to the regions of ice and snow than prepare one book for publication. I fear that months will be used up before I get through with my book"; — words which may recall a like saying accredited to Dr. Livingston, that he would rather again cross Africa than write his Expedition to the Zambesi. Kane, too, had said that the writing of his book was his coffin. Close apj^lication was, however, given to the " Researches." It was all that Hall could accomplish during the year. In the early part of the spring of 1864 direct efforts were renewed, but an application made to the legislature of the State of New York for an appropriation of $25,000 and an appeal to the Council of the city were alike unsuccessful. On the 5th of May, by invitation of Rev. Dr. R. Storrs, President of the L(>ng Island Historical Society, Hall 40 Appeal Benewed htj Friends. gave a convorsatic^nal lecture on lii.s Arctic experiences and his proposi- ticai tor a new ex])e(liti()n. The Eskimo family were present in their Arctic costume. The repetition of the invitation to lecture shows that the vote of thanks passed by the Society was designed to be more than a mere conlorniity tu usage. Subscriptions soon after this began to be offered, and the follow- ing card aj)i)eared in the leading newspapers of the city: TO THE rUB Lie. C'apt. C. F. Uall, who twenty montlis ajio returned from a two years and four niontlis' exploration of tlie Arctic IvCgion, intends to set sail on the lotli of June for another and more thorontain Hall takes with him no sailing vessel, but on ai riving at the scene of his labors will leave the ship which bears him there, nud trust to the hospitality of the Eskimos. ^^-'•"'ie--^ 0-i!H-.«~-s< £r-g,t^ /We^ ,<^lies, or ;,^on(ls tui the expedition, may be handed to any of the undersigned, who will see that tin y arc properly applied in aid of this i^raise worthy enterpiise. J. CAKSO^' JJKKVOOKT. JAMES W. BEEKMAN. A. W. BURR. HENRY GRINNKLL. E. & G. W. BLLXT. JOHN AUSTIN stev]-:ns. The press of the city of New York in strong language indorsed this appeal, and public sentiment began to show itself, more cordially and favorably. Under the influence of the names cited, and of those of other citizens of high standing, such as C}'rus \\. Field, Peter Cooper, Augustus Ward, Prof. R. S. Newt(m, and Marshall LelVcrts, some liberal collections of moneys were secured, sullicicnt to coin- plete a moderate outfit. The U. S. Coast Survey Office contributed the loan of a sextant and a dip circle. The nautical and mathematical instrument makers, Messrs. Negus, Stackpole & Brother, Bliss & Co., ^ra-lial.ne, I-:-.ir('rt & Son, and Pike & Son, very cordially supplemented the list by ourself and Eskimo friends in the Monticello, appreciating your zeal in a good cause, and being much interested personally in all that l)ertains to the icy regions." In this connection it is proper to state also, from personal testimony of the masters of the whalers belonging to tliese New London firms, that their contributions were by no means limited to the matter of free passage. Throughout both of Hall's expe- ditions these vessels, which had their fishing stations and also win- tered near him, frequently supplied his necessities, in accordance with the expressed or well-known wishes of their employers. They also took out, gratuitously, supplies sent by Mr. Grinnell and others. Hall was now ready to sail. On the 30tli of June, accompanied b}' Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, he arrived at New London, and was cordially received by its citizens, the proprietor of its chief hotel, with others, extending him full hospitalities. Embarking on the Monticello on tlie folk* wing day, the party were watched by hundreds of people as the shij) went down the harbor, and were cheered by the United Stites giinb<»;ils, Jiisco and Marblchcad, wli(»se riggings were manned The Farewell at New London. 43 and flags flipped. The Monticello, under tlie foiuiiiaiHl of ("aju. 10. A. Chapel, of Hudson, N. Y., was a staundi wlialer of ;;.')(; tons r('lasters; W. S. Moldrum, sugar; G. F. Neshit, binding journal and books for the Arctic Exjjeditiou; Reynolds, Pratt &, Co., chamois skins, «.tc. ; T. F. Brett, seine, twine, &c. ; Letoumenr & Co., pure liquors; Philip Dater & Co., groceries; Colgate & Co., soap; B. S. Osbom, sundries; G. P. Philes & Co., "Coat's Geography of Hudson's Baj-," a rare aud valuable work ; Adams Express Company, kindness of John Hoey, who sent everything free from New York to New London; Guiscppe Tagliabue, barometer and thermometer maker; The Hazard Powder Comjiany ; M. P. Brown, importer of beads; W. C. Marshall, condensed meats; Prof. R. S. Newton, M. D., medical stores and surgical instruments; H. W. Hunter, night compasses, &c. ; Thomas H. Bate & Co., fish-hooks; The New York Lead Company, Thomas Otis Le Roy Lead Company, and McCullough Lead Company, shot aud balls ; American Desiccating Company; D. Eggert & Son, chronometer manufacturers; Benjamin Pike & Son, astronomical iustrnmeiit makers; The American Bank Note Comiiany, jounial books of l)auk-note paper and anti-freezing ink; Samuel L. Mitchell, desiccated vegetables; George C. Hubbell &. Co., golden bitters; F. L. Kneelantl, Dupont's gunpowder; Lamson & Goodnow, cutlery; J. H. Brower, Borden meat-biscuit; Stackpole & Brother, nautical instriuuents ; Barton, Alexander & Waller, percussion caps, &c. ; Annin & Co., flags; McKesson & Robbins, drugs and medicines; Tomes &■ Sous & Melvain, importers of guns; Theodore Polhemus, jr., & Co., dealers in cotton sail duck; John Bliss & Co., manufacturers and dealers in nautical instruments; J. & J. C. Couroy, dealers in nets; A. A. Low & Brothers, importers of tea; James M. Dietz, lamp manufacturers ; Thomas L. Negus & Co., chronometer and nautical instruments; Goodyear's India Rubber Company, India-rubber goods; O. B. Gray, India-rubber goods; E. & G. W. Blunt, nautical instruments, charts, &c. ; Conolly & Co., wlndesale tobacco dealers; Augustus H. Ward, an order on Tiffany iSc Co. for a first-class pocket chronometer; telegraph, express, steainboat, and railroad companies for the freedom of their lines. DonatioHH from Xoc London. — F. L. Allen, drugs, &c. ; D. B. Hempstead, fancy articles and jewelry; Shcppard & Harris, clothing; Harris, Williams A:. Co., hardware; Smith & Grace, tin- ware; AiisDU Cliacc, gun-materials; N. D. Smith, stationery; H. P. Freeman, projuietor of the Metropolitan Hotel, hospitalities. HAPTER FROM ST. JOHN'S, NEWFOUNDLAND, TO WINTER QUAR- TERS ON THE WELCOME. JULY 18 TO OCTOBER 1, 1864. 4r. CHAPTEH Til. Arrival at St. John's, Newfoundland— Departure for Hudson's IUy— Passage through THE Straits — Exciting capture of two Polar bears— The Monticeli.o lands Ham. at Depot Island, and cruises for whales — A white man hired from the whalers — The Helen F. takes Hall's party toward the Wager River ; mistakes the lati- tude, LANDING them FORTY MILES SOUTH — TENTS SET UP AND CACHE MADE — FiRST MEETING WITH THE InNUITS FROM REPULSE BaY — INQUIRIES MADE OF THEM AS TO Franklin's Expedition — Change op the season — Removal of tupiks — The Innuits COLLECT their FUR DRESSES — THEIR FREQUENT VISITS TO HaLL'S TUPIK — SnOW-DRIFTS — Wolf-tracks — Snow-pa rtridges — Construction of an igloo — Winter quarters. Captain Chapel expected to reach St. John's on the 13th, but heavy fogs and a strong north by east wind, with rain following, com- pelled the ship to lie off the mouth of the harbor for several days ; further delay being occasioned by the difficulty experienced in sliliipiu^- the complement of the crew. When the captain went nshore for this purpose, Hall accompanied him, and during his stay until the istli >v;is the recipient of many tokens of kindness from the citizens, auKHii;' whom were friends of his first expedition. His letters to ]\Ir. IJrcMM.rt, Mr. Grinnell, and others speak with thankfulness of these attentions, and especially of those shown by U. S. Consul Leach, in securing for him further necessary additions to his outfit. They exhibit some 48 Departure from St. John\s, Newfoundland. [July, 1S04. natural restlessness under the unexpected delay of sailing. With the expectation of dating his next letters from Hudson's Bay, he succeeded in leavina- St. John's on the 18th of the month. CO Icebergs were first met in lat. 50° 48'. On the 28tli, at 9 a. m., Cape Chidley and Button Islands were in sight, and later in the day lliulsi Ill's Straits were entered. The Monticello shaped her course for August, 1S64.1 Passage through Hudson's Straits. 49 Resolution Island, known by the Eskimos as '^Todjon" Much float- ing ice was passed through. Hall improved the delay in the ship's course by taking the bearings of the prominent headlands along the shores of the old ^^Mcta Incognita" of Queen Ehzabeth. Across the strait through which they were sailing lay to the north his discov- eries of the Frobisher relics in 1862. From the first of August to the 20th, the ship and her tender passed through the changing experiences of Arctic navigation. Iler course was kept within fifteen to twenty miles of the land. The first days of the month were calm, offering opportunities for securing game on the ice-floes which studded the strait. Hall and Eskimo Joe shot a num- ber of oJq)as, the white web-footed sea-fowl so often found clustering on Arctic clifi's. The petuJarhs, dove-kies, proved too shy. Seals were seen at a distance. Grinnell Glacier — first seen and named on Hall's visit of August 21, 1860 — mirrored itself in the spaces of open water. It faded from sight on the bright morning of the 7th. The long and uniform range of white mountains on the north, the Terra Nievia of the old naviga- tors, arrested the attention of all on board the Monticello. The ship's log of each day, as would be expected, showed much the same record. For a few hours she worked onward under some- thing of a favorable breeze ; or else it was tack, tack, one hour on one course and the next upon the other, the wind dead ahead. At times she bored her way through the pack ice, or she met an impassa- ble barrier athwart her course, and then made fast to an iceberg or floe, tying up thus usually at night. While very slowly nearing an ice island on the evening of the 1st, her iron-plated bows had struck S. Ex. 27 4 50 Chase of two Polars. iAngi.»», i864. so heavily on a hummock that her crew were in waiting to jump from her. On the 16th, a gale springing up from the north and veering to the northwest, forced the Monticello under close reef, splitting the topsail, the sea sweeping the decks. During the intervals of fair weather the American whalers had the pleasure of exchanging courteous visits with three of the ships be- longing to the Hudson's Bay Company — the Prince of Wales, with seventy-five passengers on board, the Prince Arthur, and the Ocean Nymph. These vessels had left Stromness, in the Orkneys, on the 2d of July. One of them had been within the straits six days. They had all been sighted at a short distance to the westward the evening before the visits, the opportunity for which was occasioned by the dead calm which had detained them. Hall's voyage was not long without the excitement incident to the sight and chase of the bear and the walrus. Walruses were seen at some distance basking, as is their custom, on the ice. As the Monti- cello passed near, they raised their ferocious heads to gaze a little while at the ship, and then rolled over into the sea. The chase of several Polars was of more interest. One seen by the crew of the Helen F., though at first close by, made a most respect- ful distance before the guns could be loaded ; and, although swift chase was given by the dingy, bruin gained a long piece of ice and bounded off upon it beyond all possibility of capture, leaving on the ice, parts of the seal on which he had been breakfasting. The Mon- ticello was more fortunate, securing two large Polars on the same day. Hall's journal of August 3 says that at 5 a. m. he was aroused from sweet slumbers by the voice of Chester, who had come down from his Angust, 1S64.I A Bettv Capturcd. 51 morning- watcli "thundering in the companion way, 'White IJear! White Bear!'" In a few moments the glass showed from tlie deck a huge Polar; and the mate, with Hall and Ebierbing, started with a stalwart crew, who were quickly over the ship's side. Chester steered. Hall and Ebierbing, with loaded rifles (the gifts of Mr. Chapell, of New London), were in the boat, and five pairs of oars " pulled lustily as foi- dear life." Bruin was nearly a mile off, but though every effort was made to keep to the leeward, he showed that he scented his pursuers when they had passed over but a fourth of that distance, by his shuf- fling to and fro on the ice and by throwing up his head, shaking it at them, roaring furiously, and showing his tusks; with intervals of quiet gaze at the boat. At the outset, Eberbing pronounced the animal to be one of the largest of its kind, and a male; calling it an Anjujua Commenting in his journal on the acuteness of the Innuits in discrim- inating the signs and habits of the animals of their country, Hall notes Ebierbing's quickness in deciding the sex and character of this bear from its size and its yellowish-white color. He showed further tact by frequent lusty shoutings, in order to arrest the progress of Ninoo after he had dropped himself stern foremost into the water, and had commenced swimming at the rate of full six knots an hour. Ninoo by his delay in turning around nearly his whole huge body gave his pursuers much advantage. At the distance of 50 yards, on Ebier- bing's making the first shot at his head, which alone was above water. Polar instantly dropped, and his huge carcass floated lifeless. Tlie crew, making it fast, towed it back to the Monticello within thirty minutes from the time they had set out on the chase, and in a few moments more, with pulleys and hemp, landed him safe on deck. 52 FoJar No. 1 (August, 1864. POLAR NO. 1. Hall proceeded to sketch the animal and to note his measure- ments, the chief of which were : Weight, estimated by Chapel, Chester, and Hall 1,100 lbs. Length from snont to tail 8 ft. Lciijitli from snout to shoulder joint 3 ft. Length from heel of hind leg to top of rumi) 3 ft. 5 in. Circumference of the head before the eyes 3 ft. Circumference of the neck 3 ft. 8 in. ( "ircumferencie of the middle 7 ft. 4 in. Circumference of the fore leg below the knee and of the fore paw, each . li ft. 3 in. Length of X\nt tail 5i in. Lengtli of front teeth 7 in. Length of iiiohus 4 in. [liaroiitz, ill 1 .")!)(;, killed two hears on Cherie or Beare Island, near Aiisiiivt, 1SG4.J A Second Bear Captured. .53 Spitzbergen, the skin of one of whicli measured 12 feet, and of the other 13 feet] Ebierbing scarcely gave himself time to finisli wltli the assistance of two of the crew, the work of skinning and cutting u}) this animal, before he was at the ship's side, glass in hand, on the sharp lookout for a second. At 2.30 p. m. he espied one fast asleep about two miles dis- tant, and Captain Chapel consented to the delay of lufhng and again sending out a crew, as he found the ice closely and heavily packed in the ship's way. After a pull of two miles the same party approaclied their new game — this time within thirty yards — and Ebierbing was again the first to fire. Ninoo No. 2, however, took to his heels and was soon out of sight beyond the hummocks, and, as the floe was quite large, it was scarcely to be exjjected he would be again seen. But the crew, by sharp pulling, reached an open- water space on the opposite side, and, on inspecting closely every piece of ice, at last espied Ninoo stand- ing erect facing them, pawing the snow, and fiercely roaring. Ebierbing again fired and again the animal bounded into the water. Heading him ofi", and following closely through the floes, the marksman fired ten more shots, but still without fatal eftect. At times springing upon the loose pieces of ice, and again spurning these with his feet as he plunged into the deep, the animal at last rested on his haunches on a hununock, his whole frame quivering from the eff'ects of the shots. He struggled hard with death, at one moment sitting up, with head erect and quiet, and the next striking it in the most terrific manner first with one paw and then with the other: and roaring till, as Hall says, " the very ice mountains seemed to quake." But Ebierbing, by a well-directed shot at the brain, ended this second piteous scene, and, advancing cautiously and touch- ing the carcass with his ramrod, pronounced the bear dead, though 54 Bear-Meat and Bear-Oil. [August, is64. no sooner had he said it than Ninoo gave one more convulsive leap. He then fell lifeless. The number of shots fired is not beyond what is usually found necessary. Hall, recaUing the experiences of his first voyage, says he had sometimes thought that the bear exemplifies the old saying of the cat's nine lives, for ball after ball is often put through the head, and the bear drops down as often seemingly lifeless, yet in a few moments off again he trots. Polar No. 1 was found to be immensely loaded with fat, " covered with a complete blanket of it, five inclies thick on the rump ; the en- trails entirely encased with fat." The paunch was empty. This Ebier- bing explained by saying, ''WhenMwoo get fat he no eat any more for two or three months ; " an empty paunch is, therefore, no sign that he is hungry. The skin, the fat, and the meat were saved. The whole of the inwards, except the fat covering, was thrown into the sea The Innuits never eat anything from the inside of the bear. Steaks of juicy, red meat were welcomed by the crew, and Hall says better beef could not be had in the States. These last remarks accord with what Scoresby, in his Account of the Arctic Regions, says, viz, that he once treated his surgeon to a dinner of bear's ham, and he knew not for a month afterward but that it was beefsteak. The liver is hurtful, while the liver and flesh of the seal, on which the bear chiefly feeds, are nourishing and palatable. Sailors who have inadvertently eaten the liver of the bear have sickened ; some have actually died. These ill effects have not, however, been always the experience of Arctic sailors. The amount of oil obtained from the two bears was over seventy gallons ; all the blubber was cut up to make it. Usually the Eskimo woiiicii (1(» this part of the work, but Too-koo-li-too had never practiced OUTWARD VOYAGE FROM ST. . HOMEWARD VOYAGE 7 5° ""III" IIILIILII ^^ TO JUNE 5^ 1865 IdHrvc ? Jp.ne S C ap e MontagtL§».-=^ ■-^^o^;s= •• ^: pe,.-^'-^*^ )alisbuT?y ' / ng>lairi I. "^^tTOT^ .e*olS»-"'*% "^ ^ ^ ^ ■>rfi """^iH' ^ ^v^\ % 5ep*°3- \AvLg.lO i'l.ad.yRranKlm I. Cape Hope Iiiiiiiii iiriiiiii imniiii 60° GS" C.Best ^iVAChidley^^^. ^SepP fi, 1669 \ A a4 ll"l"" llllllll I I llMIIIII Ifomewou-rd. Trcu>k'- vrv 1869. TT^ IMMIIII I llllllll tTTTT 7 5° 7 0 LAND TO WHALE POINT. 1864. ^ TO ST. JOHNS* 1869. Augnst, 1864.] CouTse of the Ship. 55 it. The oil Wcas sweet and pellucid. By the light Irom some of it, Hall wrote his next journal entries. In the paunch of the second bear about six gallons of seal-oil had been found. From the entrance of the straits the course of the jMonticello hud been run between 60° 59' N. and 63° 47' N. The last-named latitude, made August 10, was found to be considerably north of where the ship's dead-reckoning placed her ; she had been swept out by the current. From the 7th to the 20th the log gives the longitude reckonings, G9°, 70° 40', 72° 33', 75° 08', 84° 27', 85° 30', 88° 40', 90° 20', 89° 40' ; on the 20th, 89° 56' W. Compass variation, 41° W. On the 12th, under favor of a south-southeast wind and a strong current, the ship had made the most rapid advance of any part of her course ; Nottingham and Salisbury Islands, which had been on her starboard all day, being suddenly swept by and left far in the distance. It was now learned that the passage of the straits had been much more successfully accomplished by one of the ships of the Hudson's Bay Company, the Prince of Wales, which, according to her log, had made it in less than six days. Eight days after, the Monticello, having completed her run across the bay, anchored at Depot Island, in lat. 63° 47' N., long. 89° 51' W. The Eskimo name of this island is Pik-e-u-lar ; its English name had been given to it by Captain E. A. Chapel on a former voyage. Hall was much disappointed that the vessel did not proceed directly to Marble Island, her original destination. He liad liopes of doing some good work there by carefully determining the geograph- ical position of the island, and had a second object in view. Remem- bering the fate of the expedition under Knight and Barlow, sent out 56 Expedition of Knight and Barlow. lAngnst, is64. in 1719, some of the wrecks of whose vessels were found fifty years afterwards upon this island, he wished to explore it for relics of that expedition* which might yet possibly be found. In Hearne's Travels he had seen the statement that the remains of the houses built by this party, as also the hulls of the ship and sloop were visible for many years below the waters. He was at first landed with Ebierbing and To-koo-li-too on Depot Island. Mate Chester, who accompanied them, estimated the whole weight of his boat and outfit at only 1,400 pounds. The boat, built by Rodgers of New London, was but 28 feet in length, with 5 feet 10 inches beam, and 26 inches depth. The mate and crew returned on board the Monticello, and when, soon afterward, she left the harbor on her first cruise for whales, the party on the island began their five years' Arctic residence. A tent was erected on the western side, and some observations were made for determining the position and for marking out the adjacent coast line. On the 22d, the first game secured, footed up for the day nine petularks and one goose. During the week which followed, several vessels, and among them the Tender, Helen F., were sighted, apparently working their wa}^ up to Rowe's Welcome ; and although the fog at one time hid them from view, Hall was only the more delighted to find on the 23d the brig * Sickness and famine occasioned such havoc among the English that by the setting in of the second winter their number was reduced to t^ycnty ; and on tlic Eslvinios visiting Marble Island again, in the summer of 1721, they found five of the English only alive, and those in such distress for provisions that tliey eagerly eat the seal's Jlesh aud whale's blubbej- quite raw as they purcliased it from the natives. This disordered them so much that tliree of them died in a few days; and the other two, though very weak, made a shift to bury them. These two survived many days after the rest, and frequently went to the top of an adjacent rock and earnestly looked to ibe stjuth and east as if in expectation of some vessels coming to their relief. After continuing there a considerable lime, and nothing appearing in sight, they sat down close together and •wept bitterly. At length one of the two died, and the other's strength was so far exhausted that he fell down and died also tchilc allemjjtiiifj to dig a f/rave for his companion. — (Journey from Prince of Wales' Fort, in Hudson's Hay, to the Northern Ocean, 17n7-177'2, by 8auinU-nibfr, I8«4.] CottStififf AloflQ tllC WclcOVIC. (11 rocks. Tlie chief objects thus cared for, besides liis IxK.ks mid th<- other personal effects of the party, were tlie cans of jxinmicaii ;iiid of desiccated vegetables, sugar, coffee, tea, and tobacco, a small sup- ply of spirits, powder, shot, and percussion caps. Several groups <.l' deer were seen during the day, and Ebierbing killed five of their num- ber, bringing to the encampment, with Rudolph's help, the skins «»f three with part of the meat, and leaving the remainder in a cache three miles off. The party had thus fresh meat almost immediately on landing. On the 3d, Hall resumed his voyage to Repulse Bay by coasting along to the northward. Having made about five miles, lie Inimd himself completely headed by land which shot directly atlnvart his course, though he had supposed he should find a channel. It was simply a bay filled with numerous islands. The tide was ruiniing furiously before he got out of it, and it was only by skillful manage- ment that the Sylvia was free from the eddies, currents, and oveifalls that abounded there, and was again in smooth water. In writing of this to Captain Chapel, he said : How shallow the Welcome! Over much of the distance made from tlic place of my first encampment to second, in lat. 04° 50' 30"— 15 miles— our Sylviii, drawing only 18 inches, often touched bottom a half mile to two miles fn»m tlic coast. The land on the west side of the Welcome, at no point between the Iwi. encampments named, can exceed 30 to 40 feet in height. I have no hesitalion in saying that the American whalers who have so successfully been navigating in Hudson's Bay, especially in that part of it called Sir Thomas Rowe's Wclcomr, since you aiul your brother Christopher first opened up the whalo-fisliery in said bay, in 18G0, must be as good navigators as the world knows of. This is said with the full knowledge that little or no dependence can be placed on any com- passes on board of your ships. Although my azimuth compasses are of the most dehcate construction, they are virtually of no use except to show how i^-rffctly fickle and unreliable compasses are in this portion of the Xorlh. 62 First Meeting with Innuits. [September, is64. Eskimo Joe now sighted with the telescope a place ou the land where the liniuits* had had a late encampment, the marks being several tent-poles stand- ing erect. A fe^Y minutes later he sighted a boat which was turned over and lying above high water on the land ahead. From this we concluded that the nati^•es could not be far oft", and toward this boat the Sylvia was now directed. When within one mile of it we were delighted at the sight of a native near this boat ; and yet the joy was mingled with something that was akin to fear, for he appeared advancing cautiously toward us with gun in hand, and at the same time, as Joe thought, loading it. However, I caused my small crew of three to l)ull ahead, and soon leaped fi'om the bow of the Sylvia into the muddy shallow water and waded ashore. The next moment my hand was in that of noble Ou-e-Ia's (Albert's), as fine a specimen of an Eskimo as ever I met. I told him that but a few days before I had seen you, and that Captain Chapel had brought me and the two Innuits then in the boat m his vessel from my country, America. Ou-e-Ia's joy on hearing from you seemed equal to mine on meeting him. He told us that his tupil;, skin tent, and those of several others of his people, were just over a point of land from where we then were, and that if we would stop and make our encampment there, he and his people would the next day move over beside us and then we all would have a long talk. • * The appellations Innuits and Eskimos will be used in this Narrative synonymously, as Hall uses them. It may be as ■well, however, to give the probable origin of the names and their legit- imate application. The word Esquimaux — better written Eskimo — is derived from a root indi- cating, in the language of the Northern tribes, a sorcerer. The Inn uit name i'a(7-HsA.ce7>ie meaus the house where the shmnans, sorcerers, conduct their dances and incantations. The word Inuuit means jyeople, and is in use from Greenland to Bering Strait. It should take the place of Es- kimos, the etymology of which is not clear. Mr. W, N. Dall, in a paper read before the American Association in I8G9, and in a number of "The Contributions to North American Ethnology" by Major .J. D. Powell, makes the following additional valued statements: "The Orariansare distinguished (I) by their language, of which the dialects, in construc- tion and etymology, bear a strong resemblance to one auother throughout the group, and differ in their homogeneousness(as well as the foregoing characters) as strongly fi-om their Indian dialects adjacent to them ; (II) by their distribution, always confined to the sea-coasts or islands, some- times entering the mouths of large rivers, as the Yukon, but only ascending them for a short dis- tance, and as a rule avoiding the wooded country; (III) by their habits, more maritime and ad- venturous than the Indians, following hunting, and killing not only the small seal, but also the sea- lion and walrus. Even the great Arctic bow-head whale (and anciently the sperm-whale) falls a victim to their persevering etforts ; and the patent harpoon, almost universally used by American whalers in lieu of the old-fashionwi article, is a copy, iii steel, of the bone and slate weapon which llie Innuits have used for centuries ; lastly, ihey are distinguished by their physical characteris- tics, a light, fresh, yellow complexion, fine color, broad build, scaxihbcephalic head, great cranial capacity, and obliquity of the arch of the zygoma. The patterns of their implements and weapons, and their myths, arc similar in a general way throughout the group, and equally differ- ent Cnim (he Inrliau types. ••'I'lic Oi.iriaiis are divided into two well niarkttl ;;i()iips, namely, the lunuit, comprising all (111- su-tciubcr, 1S64.1 Loficly FecUngs. 65 pose to go to Kepulsc Bay ucxt season, starting early iu the 8i)ring, and then to proceed thence to Neitchille, just where I wanted to go; and ])r<)p()s«'d that il" I would spend tlie winter here at Noo-wook with tlieni, they would Inrnish nu' and my small company with all the took-too, walrus, seal, bear, and musk-ox meat we wanted; and, furthermore, they would give us plenty of reindeer furs for our win- ter dresses and bedding, besides helping me in doing anything I desired. Where else in the world could a more free-hearted, generous people be found f After spending several days with them and conversing seriously on the whole subject, Hall decided, and indeed of necessity, to remain at Noo-wook for the winter. He communicated the information quoted above to Captain Kilmer, of the Ansel Gibbs; that this first news might be safely conveyed to Mr Grinnell, if he himself should never return home. On the two following days whales were seen close to shore, their backs being above water for nearly a half hour. On the 1 0th, Hall sent his two Eskimos with Rudolph and some of the natives to his last encampment to bring away his stores. While awaiting their return the feelings awakened by his now isolated situation were thus recorded in his note-book : " I have felt lonely all day, although within a stone's tbrow are three tupiks filled with these kind-hearted children of the North. They have been very kind, some going to the lakelet for water, some getting the dwarf shrub used in these regions for fuel, and some preparing my food." The experience of his former Expedition having early taught him the helplessness of these poor beings when suffering with sickness or bodily injuries, he was not unprepared to render assistance, and lie had early calls upon him from Ar-too-a and Ou-e-la. The case of one of his patients is illustrative. Ook-har-loo, an old woman, suf- fering with inflamed eyes, was constantly rubbing them with her S. Ex. 27 5 QG Dr. Baci's Oii-Ug-huck. [Sepieiub.r, is6i. uncleanly lists. Having iirst sponged off with soap and water "the thick coat of primitive soil " which covered Ook-har-loo^ s whole face, and then presented her with a piece of cotton cloth for her owr. use in cleansing her eyes, he received her profound thanks for this appli- cation of nature's remedy, with the declaration that he was the best t>f Au-f an oolc-f/ook (J'lujca harhata) which they had seen drifting down witli the tide, and s(;('iii- ingly asleep. The Sylvia had been gotten off the rocks b\' the help of the women. But although the party approached the seal cautiousl}-, the noise of the oars awakened him, and he disappeared. 'I'ht* chief Ou-e-la, with one of his wives and a daughter, had early gone shield them tmni the cold w^est and northwest winds that would proba])l}- prevail tm- many months to come. His journal says : It has been movln^-day with us, and an interesting i.i(» dtcr skins, and in her hands various things. I carried on my shoulder two rill«'s and one gun, each in covers; under one arm my compass tri])od, and in one hand my little basket, which held my pet Ward chronometer, and in the other my trunk of instruments. A snow-drift set in on the 20th, but during its continuance about twenty bags of fire-shrub were gathered. It was not the usual Andro- meda Tetragona, but something of Hke character, and was collected for fuel and for a covering on the tupiks. During the rest of the month a continuance of stormy weather prevented astronomical observations The land began to look winter- like. The tracks of a wolf were now first seen ; it had been busy with the bear-skins which had been left to dry near the third encamp- ment. The ground was already covered with snow to the depth of a half inch ; the ice on the lakes bore the weight of a man, and the heavy weather on the coast drove inland more of the game. The Innuits, warned of the necessity for procuring winter clothing, made a journey of five miles down the coast to their deposit of rein- deer-skins. On their return, it was a matter of surprise to Hall to see what heavy loads they were bearing on their backs, one of the youngest of the men carr3dng no less than 125 pounds, and Too-loo- ar-a, one of Ou-e-la^s wives, 100. In binding their packs they passed thongs around them, and these across their foreheads and breasts. When appropriating these furs, on the following day, a gay and novel scene presented itself The best skins being arranged in an outside circle, the women were gallantly allowed each to make her selection from these; the remainder of the one hundred and fifty skins l)eing 70 Too Frequent Visits. (September, i864. then chosen by the men from the inner circles. Several women had young children at their backs. "The gilt bands on their heads, the spiral tails hanging on each side of their broad faces, the boys and girls at play, made altogether a fine subject for a picture." Ou-e-la, speaking for his companions, had requested Hall to take out his choice of furs, first of all. The reindeer by this date had nearly all gone south, not to come again till spring. Returning from a lonesome tramp, on which Hall bad made a discovery of wolf-tracks, he was visited by almost all of the Innuits of the village, with their congratulations on his escape from a seeming danger. Their visits were, however, fast becoming so frequent and protracted as to give him much concern. Fully dis- posed to do nothing but rest in the enjoyment of the fruits of their summer labors, they did little else than visit and eat; "laying off and eating, eating, eating." Lounging in Hall's tent the day long and talking witli Ebierbing and Too-koo-H-too, they became "quite a bore"; particularly as these talks were already bending Too-koo-li- too's mind to an inconveniently slavish obedience to their customs She gave the first proof of this by going off among the rocks to mend her took-too stockings for fear of offending these natives by working at all on took-too within a tent. It was only when all these Innuits had retired to their several tupiks that Hall's company could have a full meal, rhey must always share it with the unsophisticated children of the North; " such voracious eaters that they always get the lion's share." The evening meal, however, usually consisted of but cold rock-pennnican, tallow-candles, and degenerated meat, and even of tliis Ebiei-bing and Too-koo-li-too were fortunate if they got half a dozen iiiniitlifiils l«'f(»rr' all was gone. In very pleasant contrast Avith this St-pleuiuer, 1H(>4.] Winter Oamr. 71 is found an occasional note of tlio brinj^in^- In ])y Kudolpli of a fat rabbit, in its winter garb, all A\liite excoi)t tlic tips of its ears, "jet black;" or of as many as eight or ten siiow-parti'idges. Flocks of these birds, in their winter dress, snow white, exce})t their tail-feath- ers, were found in numbers on the sea-shore, after each fall f»f snow. In the de])th of the winter they are scarcely distinguishable from the snow at a distance of 10 feet. .^ PTARMIGAN ( Tetfuo Lagopm). 72 ^n Aurora. [scpicmbM-, isc4. Hall's journal closes the month of September with an imagina- tive comparison between the early snow-storms and Arctic aurora : While out on a walk amid the snow-storm this p. m., I was struck with the similitude, in some respects, of the appearance of the snow, as it was swept along by the winds over the glassy surface of the new-made ice of the lakelets, to that of the aurora in these regions when in its full play. I refer to certain pearks. The Southern Indians believe it to be tin; spirits of departed friends danciiiL;. When the .lurora v:iries in ccdor and form, they say their deeensed friends are nrij mirrij. Oc:ob<-r, 1SH4. First Sleil(/c Trip. So the coldest gales. A large snow-block fashioned int<» a (•<»hiniii ."'. feet in height was set upright in tlie center of tlic oh.scrvatnrN-, and its top rounded off by another block. The wliolc was made iiil<» snlid ice by pouring water on it. The house was now read\' I'ni- tlic (lip circle which had been loaned by the United States Coast Survey. The circle was unfortunately broken before it could be used with success.* Discovering that his ink was frozen solid, he tried the successful experiment of boiling down about a pint to a thick paste, obtaining:-, )»y diluting this, a supply for his present use, and preserving his ink- powder and anti-freezing ink, the gift of the American Bank Note Company of New York. ■^ J> KSKl.MO SLED. On the 22d a sledge journey of 10 miles was made down the Welcome, to give the hungry dogs of the Innuits a full meal lr..ui a whale's carcass. The runners of this sled, made of 2-incli j)lank, weie 16 feet lono;, each beinar shod with bone from the jaw of a whale. Its 15 cross-bars made of staves, each 3 feet 4 inches long and f) inches 'Before Hall left New York Mr. James Green, instrument-maker, set up this eirelo en •rrounfl adjoining Mr. Rutlierfurd's observatory and went through a set <.f ol.s.-rval ions and <.f exj)lana1ory instruction with Hall.. 86 The First Musk-ox Hunt. lOdobcr, is64. wide, were lashed to the top of the runners by strong strips of wah'us- hide. This play of the runners makes the Eskimo sled superior to all others in its flexibility over hummocky ice. Their depth was 9 inches, and the width of the sled outside of them, 3 feet. The four Innuits, Ou-e-Ia, Ar-too-a, Nu-ker-zhoo, and Oong-oo-too, accompanied Hall, the dog team being made up of fifteen dogs. Un- able to find the whale by reason of the quantity of pack-ice which had been forced on shore, the paity crossed a bight and succeeded in satis- fying the dogs from the carcasses of two bears, which were with difii- culty uncovered from a frozen mass of stones. Making upon the rocks a scanty meal from what they had brought with them without touch- ing the bear-meat, they lighted their pipes and took a good smoke. Then placing some provision within two deer skins which were made up by thongs into rolls to be drawn by the dogs, they started on a westerly course inland to visit some of the reindeer deposits. The sled was left behind. A more exciting scene now offered itself. Ou-e-la soon discov- ered the tracks of musk-oxen, and brought up the whole party by his cries of '■'■ Oo-ming-mimg, Oo-ming-mimg." Quickly deciding that the tracks were not very old, and that the animals might be sighted, they entered on what the natives regard as their great hunt. The tracks freshened. The animals were not, however, sighted during the day. The party had to get up an igloo and retire to rest with but a scanty meal of about 3i ounces for each man, part of which consisted of "casino." Outside of the igloo, the thermometer showed 16° and inside, 25°; a temperature pronounced uncomfortable by the four warm-blooded Innuits and the one pale-face, all of whom slept closely sandwiched. oc:obfr, 1S61.I The First Mush- Ox Jfiint. 87 Hall's head and shoulders were between two of his friends, while his feet and legs were mixed up with those of the other two. Early in the morning, after smoking in bed, his companions gave him the only breakfast which could be had — the marrow melted during the night from a few reindeer-bones kept close by their flat stone lamp. They then slaked their tliirst from a lakelet, cutting the ice to the depth of 18 inches, and resumed their hunt. Following the tracks which led in different directions, at one time southwardly toward the "Great Sea" (Hudson's Bay), and at others for long distances over hill and valley, at length they descried two animals on the top of a hill at the opposite end of a lake. The dogs were immediately loosed, but very soon some could not be prevented from turning aside to the tracks of reindeer. After considerable delay, however, they were again brought together by the cries of the Innuits, whose sharp, experienced eyes readily discriminated between the tracks of the reindeer and those of the musk-ox. The hoofs of both are as lar^re as those of the common ox, and much the same in appearance; but the little knobs — fetlocks (?) — behind the hoofs are the tell-tale be- tween the tracks, those of the reindeer being more prominent and longer The stand-droppings of the deer are like those of the sheep; of the musk-cattle, "much like those from our cattle when dry- fed." The party at this time had much difficulty in the ])ursuit, the snow being too soft to support their weight. As much as possible of the route was selected over the bare rocks, in passing over which they came frequently to places where the musk bull or cow had pawed through the snow and fed upon the grass and mosses of the soil; unmistakable signs also appeared of their having lain down and rested 88 A Fox Caught in His Own Trap. [Odobor, is64. through the night. T\yo of the Innuits went forward to follow up the tracks to which some of the dogs had continued to keep close. Hall, with Ou-e-la and Ar-too-a, turned aside to visit a reindeer deposit. Noticing the tracks of a fox, on close examination they found a hole through a snow-bank which covered a cache, and on loosening some of the stones discovered a fox alongside of the meat within. He was (lead and frozen hard as a rock. The hungry fellow had burrowed through the drift and forced his gaunt body in through a very small hole between the stones. But he had so gorged himself that it was impossible for him to get back through the hole by which he had entered. The meat was left untouched, for the Innuits cannot eat what a fox has meddled with. Ou-e-la led the way to another cache, which he opened, but only by a very severe hammering of one stone upon another to unloose the mass, locked up as it was by the ice A bountiful re[)ast was made by the hungry travelers from the best parts of the meat, while the legs and head were re-cached for future use. Hall notes that the custom of the Innuits when making these deposits is to throw down the carcass of the slain deer, and then to place upon and around it the -head, legs, shoulders, and saddle ; covering the whole with a heavy pile of stones. The frozen mass soon becomes so solid that any one but an Innuit would expect to separate it only by blasting, or by the use of the pick and the crow-bar. The Innuit perse- veringly divides it by using a wedge-shaped stone, on which he strikes his ])l- tlie same. The company patientl}^ awaited the an-ge-hos appearance for lialf an hour, when he entered Imnnning an Eskimo song, and then retirini;-, re-entered with the same song- in the low door-wa}^, OoJ:-har-loo again striking up her monotony. Among liis antics at this time lie gra})i)led with and, with a seeming supernatural strength, readily threw down tw^o of the strongest Innuits. Of this an-lioo-ting the chant is the most striking feature; it is low and monotonous, and often broken by the suppressed sobs and moaning of the sick. The grim, swarthy faces of the men and women spectrally illuminated by the fitful gleams of the stone lamp, and their dark bodies swaying awkwardly to and fro and keeping time to the rude intona- tions of their barbarous songs, make up a wild and unearthly scene. The last day of October was comparatively warm ; the wind was southerly. From the top of a neighboring hill. Hall saw with his marine glass a number of seals, from two to three miles to the northeast, basking on a floe One of them especially tempted him, as it was seen very near hummocky ice, which might serve as a mask until he could get within rifle-shot. Crossing the shallow bay, and trudging wearily over the very rough ice in some places so massive as to hide the animal entirely from view, he at length again caught sight of it by peering from the height of a pile of ice that had been thrown up by pressure. But before he could come within rifle-shot, he was compelled to wind his way through a labyrinth of high masses of old ice from the far north which had grounded here., and were keeping the new ice between them in a dangerous state for traveling The ice over which he walked was covered, too, with crjstals which 94 Meteorological Observations. [woTember, is64. crisped so loudly under the foot that he could make his advance only wliile the seal was taking- its cat-naps, which he found to vary from half a minute to a minute each only; he watched for these very closely. To secure a good position and a support for his rifle, he was obliged at last to throw himself flat on the ice, and hitch himself along, Eskimo fashion. In this way he got within fair range, and, peer- ing through a crevice in the hummock, saw the seal shake its flippers, roll from side to side, and then drop its head for what he hoped would ])e its last nap. After taking careful aim, he thought for a few seconds that he surely had his prize ; but on firing, the seal with one bound plunged handsomely through its hole into the sea, leaving him only the grim satisfaction of finding enough oil at the hole to show that his shot had taken effect. He knew that unless a seal is killed at the instant, it is lost ; for it lies close to its hole, and generally with its head hanging over the edge, ready for a plunge. A deep fissure in the ice before him prevented any further efforts in this direction. The 1st of November was a day of storm, the wind blowing a gale and the snow flying furiously. Hall commenced making his me- teorological observations seven times a day. He had previously to this registered three times onl}^ ; — morning, noon, and night. He now added the hours 3 a. m., 9 a. m., 3 p. m., and 9 p. m. Nine of the thermometers presented to him by Tagliabue, of New York, were still at his command. They agreed well at the higher temperatures, but below zero their differences showed as much as ten degrees. He suc- ceeded in neatly repairing his sextant, using the tube of a broken ther- mometer as a blow-pipe and some ''magic salve" as a flux. On renewing his plans for the coming season, the Innuits pro- posed to mak(t ihcir way early to Iwillik for their own purposes. November, J 864.] Tlw Infiiiits wUl (JO to lie/pulse Bay in the Sprhuj. 95 The first stopping-place on their route would be Oo-koo-isli-c-lik, AYag-er Bay, where they would l)uild hjJoos ;iiid hunt tlic imisk, tlio l)ear, and the seal. Quite early in the season a passage could he made by boats along the land-ice to Kepulse Bay. Hall thought that lui could go on with them to NeitchiUe, and there learn the best way of advancing his original plans, which, however, he already saw would require length of time, particularly to gain the sufficienth' strong con- fidence of the Innuits to induce them to accompany him to King William's Land. Ilis record says : "I must not say I will do so and so, but rather say I will do the work I came to perform (God helping me), take whatever time it will." Up to the 10th of the month his party had opened but a small part of the provision brought from the Monticello, and he had given the 'larger share of this, including 00 pounds of pemmican, to his Innuit friends. But in turn he had been so generously feasted on reindeer, that he thought if he could live " one-fifth as well " during the remainder of his stay, he woidd have nothing to complain of. CUP AND 15ALL. (Deposited at tlie Smitlisonian Institution.) The tribe was far from lacking a natural love of amusement. They had learned the games of checkers and dominos, doubtless from tMj The Key-hiv-tik. [IVoTember, lStt4. tlie whalers, and it seemed possible to teach them chess. A favorite game was that of the cup and ball. They gave him an amusing exhibition of one of their serio-comic diversions. This was a performance on the J^ey-Joiv-tll', their bass- drum: the onlv musical instrument wdiich he found among them. The instrument itself, and the changing characters from the comic and gro- tesque to the serious and superstitious, carried through the perform- ances by both men and women, are described at some length. JM.AYING THE KEY-LOW-TIK. The drum is made from the skin of the deer, which is stretched over a hoo]) made of wood, or of bone from the fin of a whale, by the IVoreiuber, 1S64. Preparation of the Kci/-Iow-tik. 97 use of a strong" braided cord of sinew passed around a groove on tlie outside. The lioo]) is about 2 J inches wide, IJ inches thick, and 3 feet in diameter, the whole instrument weigliing about 4 pounds. The wooden drumstick, 10 inches in length and 3 in(;hes in diameter, is called a ken-toon. KEY-LOW-TIK. Hall gives, in substance, this account of the process of prepar- ing the key-low-tilx : The deer-skin which is to be the head of the instrument is kept frozen when not in use. It is then thor- oughly saturated with water, drawn over the hoop, and temporarily fastened in its place by a piece of sinew. A line of heavy, t^yisted, sinew, about 50 feet long, is now wound tightly on the groove on the outside of the hoop, binding down the skin. This cord is fastened to the handle of the key-low-tik, which is made to turn by the force of several men (while its other end is held firmly), and the line eased out as required. To do this a man sits on the bed-platform, "having one or two turns of the line about his body which is incased in furred deer-skins, and empaled by four upright pieces of wood." Tension is secured by using a round stick of wood as a lever on the edge of the skin, drawing it from beneath the cord. AVhen any whirring sound is S, Ex. 27 7 98 Playing tlie Key-low-tih. [ivoTember, i864. heard, little whisps of reindeer-hair are tucked in between the skin and the hoop, until the head is as tight as a drum. When the liey-low-tik is played, the drum-handle is held in the left hand of the performer, who strikes the edge of the rim opposite that over which the skin is stretched. He holds the drum'in different posi- tions, but keeps it in a constant fan-like motion by his hand and by the blows of the ken-toon struck alternately on the opposite sides of the edge. Skillfully keeping the drum vibrating on the handle, he accompanies this with grotesque motions of the bod}^, and at intervals with a song, while the women keep up their own Innuit songs, one after another, through the whole performance. At this first exhibition which Hall witnessed some twenty-five men, women, and children — every one who could leave home — assem- bled to see the skill of the performers, who would try the newly-fin- ished instrument. As usual, the women sat on the platform, Turk fashion ; the men, behind them with extended legs. The women were gaily dressed. They wore on each side of the face an enormous pig- tail, made by wrapping their hair on a small wooden roller a foot in length; strips of reindeer-fur being wrapped with the hair. These were black and white for those who had sons, and black only for those who had none. Shining ornaments were worn on the head, and on the breast they had masonic-like aprons, the groundwork of which was of a flaming red color, ornamented with glass beads of many colors. Tlie women thus presented a pleasing contrast with the dark visages (jf the men in the background ; while their naked infants were playing here and there in a mother's lap, or peering out from their nestling place in a liood. OoJ:-har-loo was the first performer. This young man was a son November, 1S61.] Playmfj tJic Key-Iow-Wc. 99 of Ever-at^ whose picture is g-iven in Parry's Narrative of his second voyage, and who is named by him as helping- to draw one of the charts. When Ook-har-loo was tired out, Oon-goo-too took up the licy- low tik, the women striking- up for him their second song. Ou-e-hi now gave Hall a punch in the side, which was understood to mean, "Just see what my people can do"; when tlie performers, stripping off their jackets to be naked from their loins up, alternately dealt each other's arms such fearful blows that Hall thought their very bones must be broken, and seemed to feel his own shoulders ache. The one who had played the key-Iow-tik the longer now struck his blows without mit- tens, and Ook-har-loo ere long gave signs of surrender. The times varied from 10 to 13 minutes each. Ar-too-a, Ar-mou, and Ou-e-la followed as performers at short in- tervals, one of them making as high as a hundred and sixty strokes in a minute with the ken-toon. Then Nu-ker-zhoo, getting his hand under the key-low-tik, and dealing rapid blows first on one edge and then on the other, by this jugglery kept it vibrating in the air and brought out from it the same sounds as when played in the usual way. Hall, being then called out by the house, tried his hand, but for less than three minutes, when the key-low-tik was on the floor, his arm and wrist ach- ing from the weight, and the whole igloo convulsed with laughter. Ebierbing was called for, but was too weak from recent sickness to perform. Before this part of the exhibition closed, the performers showed up the differences in playing as practiced by the neighboring tribes. The meeting now suddenly changed to one of a serious character. Ook-har-loo, when he resumed playing, instantly extinguished the lights, leaving only the dim moon to creep in through the fresh-water-ice 100 A Move to the Walrus-Grounds. [ivoTcmbcr, ts64. window of the ir/Ioo. He then commenced his talk with the spirits, accompanied by clapping- of hands, jumping up and down, sideways and forwards, and then backing- out from the igloo and returning. During all this an-koo-ting one and another of the audience kept repeating "words which seemed not unlike those of a penitent giving in his experience at a revival meeting." By the middle of this month the Innuits had finished their work on the reindeer-skins. Too-ko-li-too had labored for thirty days, fifteen hours out of the twenty-four, during which time, with but little assist- ance from Ebierbing even in cleaning the skins, she had made up, besides bedding, seven complete fur suits ; two for Hall, two for her husband, two for herself, and one for Rudolph. Preparation was now busily made for moving off to the walrus-grounds, the first step toward which was to cover the sledge-runners wdth muck, a kind of peat obtained from a marsh after digging four feet through the snow and about a foot into the frozen ground. The muck is saturated with water, and a handful at a time placed on the runners at the very coldest hour, to ice them. Several families moved off on the 15tli. Ebierbing, who went forward with them to assist in erecting igloos, saw flocks of ducks moving south. The first huts which were built were four connected ones having a common central place. In Hall's, Too-koo-li-too first covered the snow-bed place with boards, and put over these a quantity of diy shrubs and the reindeer-furs. Before flail had left his old hut, on learning that the Innuit customs forbade the burning of shrubs in a new home, he had roasted enough coffee for a supply of two months. And before leaving the first igloo he had made the honest record in his journal, that on a visit from Oii-e-la Novonibrr, 1864.) SuperStiUon. 101 and Ar-moH, they, with Ebierbing and himself, indulged with great freedom in the use of Hubbell's Golden Bitters, the indorsement on which is, ''Good for dyspepsia." "Although the bitters were as thick as molasses, it was difficult to get it from the bottles quick enough to supply the demand." The next morning was one of headache and repentance to some ; yet the natives declared they had never been so happy as on the night before. Long before this, however, ihej had learned from the whalers to drink, smoke, and swear. On entering their new igloos the Innuits renewed their perform- ances of the hey-low-tik and of an-'koo-ting. In the latter of these performances the an-ge-ko (Ar-too-a) now made use of three walrus spears. One of these he thrust into the wall of the snow-house, and, after the usual accompaniments which have been already described, ran with it outside of the igloo, where his ejaculations were responded to by the party inside with the cries of ^^At-teef At-teef^ Returning with his spear to the door, he had a severe wrestling match with four of the men, who overcame him. But coming again into the central igloo, and having the lights which had been at the first patted down, relit, he showed the points of two spears apparently covered with fresh blood, which he held up in the pres- ence of all. Muttering something in a low tone at them, he gave a puff and then wiped them clean with the Innuits' universal dish-cloth — the tongue. The an-ge-JiO then recommenced his incantations, address- ing for a minute or so, with his head erect, the Great Power above, and then, with head on the floor, the Spirit below. Kneeling on Too- koo-li-too's fur jacket in the center of the hut, he kept this up for a full half hour. After his exhibition had closed. Hall learned that the Spirits had revealed to the an-ge-Jco that he and Ebierbing must exchange 102 Hall An-kOO-ted. I November, 1S64. wives for the niglit* This, Hall effectually intervened to forbid. He records, also, the clear testimony of the wife of one of the Innnits in behalf of Too-koo-li-too herself that she had repelled the previously attempted efforts on the part of the other women to persuade her to accept the decree. In a time of sickness during the month Hall himself had been prevailed on to be an-kooted, and the an-ge-ko had told him that his sickness had been owing to his having eaten on his first expedition tood-uoo prepared in a wrong way, and to the fact that he had left in his own country an enemy who had tried to do him harm. When he acknowledged that these two things were true, the Innuits were much pleased with the evidence of power in their an-ge-ko^ and Hall con- sented to obey the decree given him, that he should never again wear certain garments which had been presented to him by some of his Innuit friends. During the last days of the month several walrus hunts were entered upon, the first success in which was prevented by the poorness of the seal-skin lines which had been made to supply the loss of the stronger ones missed some time before from their place of deposit. From unmistakable signs noticed when they had gone down the coast for these lines, the natives were satisfied that they had been stolen by some party from one of the whale-ships. Hall accompanied them on * Heame says of the Indian tribes on the Sea of the North : "It is a very common custom in this country to exchange a night's hedging with each other's -wives ; l)ut this is so far from being considered criminal that it is esteemed one of the strongest ties of friendship between the two families ; in case of tlie death of either man the other considers himself bound to support the cliildren of the deceased. This duty is never neglected. (Heame, j). 129.) Father Veniaminoff, a Russian priest, who labored among the Aleutiaii tribes, is quoted by Mr. Dall as saying that formerly they i»racticed frequent secret orgies, and that "a guest shared all marital rights ti-ith Ms host." These customs, however, as is well known, are not exclusively those of the North Ameri- can tribes. December, 1SG4.1 FolloWUKJ Up the WttlniS. 103 their hunts, ahhough lie had been several thnes confined to his i/jloo by a sore throat and by bruises received on his rough sledge-journeys. He endeavored to supply the loss of the walrus-lines by loaning the sheets of his boat Sylvia. A bear and a number of walruses were secured ; others which were only struck on the ice were lost during the nightSj when they escaped by the tide setting the floe back to the land. But the condition of the ice was fine for hunting, and the promise for the season was good. Hall notices that on each morning, after the men had gone off to hunt, their women took each a cup down to the shore and left it there ; probably under the idea that this would bring success. On the Gth of the month following, Ou-e-la and Ebierbing found a walrus of a large size butting his head through the ice, which was 4 inches thick, with a force sufiicient to throw masses of it several feet into the air. On a signal to the other hunters they scattered themselves, watching for another appearance. The animal burst through the ice six times before he was harpooned Generally, when pursued, he moves in a direct line, and the natives are accustomed to calculate where he will probably make his second or third rise. The holes which he works up through the ice are sometimes as far apart as 100 rods, but the distances decrease in proportion to the length of the pursuit, during which the animal is often drowned. The Innuits sometimes follow nearly the same plan in drowning ducks, though this is done when there is no ice to cover them. A flock which is swimming is approached by the hunter in a ky-alc^ when most of them take alarm and fly away, but some dive down. The hunter rapidly follows in the probable direction in which the now submarine ducks are swimming, and the instant that one appears above water, it 104 Ou-C-laS Stories. fBcccmbcr, 1864. is frightened down by shouts and antic tricks in the way of motions. This one is selected as the victim or prize, and, as the hunter gets near it, he sees and follows it through the clear water. As often as it comes up to breathe, his shouts and motions follow, and thus the pur- suit is made till finally the poor duck is dead. Hall remembered that in 1861, when making a passage through the Beare Sound of Frobisher, some of his Innuit friends could not be restrained from pursuing this sport till they had deceived the ducks in the way described. "It certainly is an economical way to secure provision without the use of spears or guns." On the same day on which the walrus was secured, several of the natives had a desperate encounter with a huge Polar, killing it while three of their dogs kept the animal at bay. One of the lances which had entered the animal, he drew out with his teeth, and gave their best dog a terrible wound, cutting through the skin and flesh of his neck as clean as with a sharp knife. Ou-e-la, on returning from these hunts, entertained Hall with some huge bear-stories. With much emphasis he told of a woman who, a few years before, had heard a strange noise outside her igloo, and on leaving it, was seized by a large bear, who completely scalped her and disemboweled her child. An old man in the igloo, although a cripple in both legs, fastening a long knife to the end of a pole and cra^ding through the narrow passage-way of the hut at the doorway, braced his lance against the icy floor, when the bear, while springing toward liis new victim, became his own executioner by receiving the knife directly through his heart. Ou-e-la further said that he had once, single-handed, killed a large bear with a lance only; at another time lie had killed a bear of equal size with bow and arrow, without the December, 1864.1 ^' TJic Arc-IaJ^ 105 assistance even of doj^s. He liad seen a bear kill a walrus by using a piece of ice weighing more than any one man could lift. The bear rounds the ice into a ball, and stealthily runs on his hind legs toward his sleeping victim ; if the first blow on the head of the walrus fails to kill, he finishes his work by repeated blows on the thick skull. He contents himself with the blubber only, leaving the mass of meat for the fox, or for other animals which may follow his tracks. A peculiar animal was described to Hall, an account of which is scarcely to be found in Arctic books. The natives speak of it as being larger than the bear, and as very ferocious and much more diffi- cult to be killed. It has grayish hair, a long tail, and short, thick legs, its fore feet being divided into three parts like the partridge's; its hind feet are like a man's heels. When resting, it sits upright like a man. A Neitchille Innuit, crawling into a hole for shelter in the night, had found one sound asleep and quickly dispatched it with his knife. It may be added here that Ebierbing, now residing in the United States, confirms such accounts of the '■'■Arc-la,'''' and says that the animal once inhabited his native country on Cumberland Sound. On the morning of the 10th, Ebierbing, Oii-e-Ia, Ar-too-a, Ar- moii, Oon-goo-too, and Nu-ker-2'hoo, accompanied by Rudolph, started on two sledges with full dog-teams to visit the whaling-vessels winter- ing in Depot Island — a contemplated trip which had been deferred only till the walrus season should commence. Rudolph was the hap- piest of the party. He had proved of little service to Hall, having early become dissatisfied with the strange mode of life to which his employer had habituated himself. Yet he was at times a voracious eater, consuming as much as 8 pounds of solid food at a meal, and then complaining of a feeling of "gone-ness," and fearing he would starve lOG Budolph Dismissed. [December, ise-i. to death. A part of the time lie had been separately put in charge of one of the natives. He now looked forward with g-reat satisfaction to resuming his life on shipboard and to ship-diet The parting was friendly. Hall gave him a letter to the captain of the Monticello, ask- ing that he would get a place for him on one of the whalers. Rudolph was also cautioned to have care of himself on the sledge journey, and the natives were requested to see that he should not be frost-bitten. At the same time a confidential history of Rudolph's conduct was sent to the ship, lest the man should gain credit if he attempted to spread misrepresentations among the whalers. His dissatisfaction and his uselessness to Hall had been largely owing to his disease of homesick- ness and, during the latter part of his time, to an attack of scurvy. A second letter to Captain Chapel requested that he would grant, at Hall's cost, whatever reasonable requests the natives might make, if the value of the articles asked for by them sliould exceed that of the skins and clothing taken down by them for barter. Among the articles for which Hall himself asked were a gun, a spy-glass, some walrus- lines, and tobacco, with a loaf of bread and a piece of butter for Too-koo-li- too. He wanted 50 pounds of tobacco, for it went further than any- thing else in gaining the good-will and help of the natives. Ou-e-la waited for the dispatches, which were made up by 9 a. m., and then overtook the sleds a mile in advance out on the rough ice, where the dogs were howling and springing with all their might to be off. Hall went with him that far, and on parting gave Ou-e-la a kiss (Ivo-nik) on his iron though warm cheek. The journal says : TIk; sun Ava.s just lifting its glorious face from the ice horizon of Ivowe's Wel- come. The air was calm and the temperature 92° below freezing-point by my large thermometer; therefore it was dry and exhilarating. The heavens, opposite the sun, were glowing in warm crimson clouds, their upper edges tinted with purple December, 1864.] TJic Natives Visit tilt WkaUrs. 107 and silvery lines. The day througLout was the coldest of the season, as the ther- mometer showed, bnt not the eoldcst as far as its effect npon the human system is concerned. The average of three sets of observations on eight thermometers gave 65° below freezing-point as the average of the day. I have tried some experiments, i)erhaps too simple to require record. I put one of my fingers in contact with the brass plate of one of the thermometers; instantly I felt a shaq) running sensation ; in a few seconds that part of my flesh exjiosed to the brass plate was white as snow and frozen solid. A smart rubbing with my other hand soon took the frost ont, and the finger was as well as ever. I placed another finger for thirty seconds in exposed mercury ; the smarting at first was severe, in fact, felt as though the finger was in a fire, but before the thirty seconds expired the smarting ceased, and I felt noways disagreeable. On taking my finger out of the mercury, it was frozen solid as a rock; a smart persevering rubbing again took the frost out. I tried several times during the day the experiment of keeping my hands unmittened, walking around thus for half an hour without their feeling very cold, and could have con- tinued with my hands thus exjiosed for a longer time had I been on a smart walk, as when traveling on a jour- ^ ney. When there is no moisture in the air, as to-day, no dog-skin jottens. one would suppose the temperature as cold as the thermometers indicate. I have felt colder in the States with the thermometer 32° than here in my walks to-day with hands and face exposed and having no other coat on but my civilization (Brevoort) one. The letter of the most interest sent by the natives to the whalers reads as follows : Winter Quarters, in Igloo, Noo-WooK, West end Eowe's Welcome, Lat. 640 40' N., Long. 87° 20' W., Friday, December 10, 1864. Dfar Friend Chapel: In this letter I have some deeply interesting intelli- gence to communicate to you. Since falling in with the natives I have not been idle. Nothing in Parry's narrative of second voyage for the discovery of the North- west Passage relating to the Eskimos of Winter Island and Igloolik but these natives are perfectly posted up in. Indeed, I find through my superior inteii>re- ter, Too-koo-li-too, that many deeply interesting incidents occurred at both-named places that never found their place in Parry's or Lyon's works. But the great work already done by me is the gaining little by little from these natives, through Too- koo-li-too and Ebierbing, news relating to Sir John Franklin's Expedition. This, 108 Further Beported News of FranklirCs Men. [December, is«4. you kuow, wiis the great object of my mission to the Xorth. I cannot stop to tell you now all I have gained of this people — no, not the one hundredth part. [The natives are now loading sledge; it is 7 o'clock 30 minutes a. m.] I will give you very briefly what the people of England and America wiU be most interested to learn. When I come down I shall bring my disi)atches and journals up to the time of writing you, and these will be committed to your care for transmitting to the States. The most important matter that I have acquired relates to the fact that there may yet be three survivors of Sir John Franklin's Expedition, and one of these, Crozier, the one wOio succeeded Sir John Franklin on his death. The details are deeply interesting, but this must suffice till I come down: Crozier and three men with him were found by a cousin of Oue-la (Albert), SJioo-she-ark-nook (John), and Ar-too-a (Frank), while moving on the ice from one igloo to another; this cousin having with him his family and engaged in sealing. This occurred near Neitchille (Boothia Felix Peninsula). Crozier was nothing but " skin and bones," was nearly starved to death, while the three men with him were fat. The cousin soon learned that the three fat men had been living on human flesh, on the flesh of their companions who all deserted the two ships that were fast in mountains of ice; while Crozier was the only man that would not eat human flesh, and for this reason he was almost dead from starvation. This cousin, who has two names (but I cannot stop to get them now), took Crozier and the three men at once in charge. He soon caught a seal, and gave Crozier quickly a little — a very little piece, which was raw — only one mouthful the first day. The cousin did not give the three fat men anything, for they could well get along, till Crozier's life was safe. The next day the cousin gave Crozier a little larger piece of same seal. By the judicious care of this cousin for Crozier, his life was saved. Indeed, Crozier's own judgment stuck to him in this terrible situation, for he agreed with the cousin that one little bit was all he should have the first day. When the cousin first saw Crozier's face, it looked so bad — his eyes all sunk in, the face so skeleton-like and haggard, that he did not dare to look ui^on Crozier's face for several days after; it made him feel so bad! This noble man, whom the whole civilized world will ever remember for humanity, took care of Crozier and his three men, save one who died, through the whole winter. One man, however, died a short time after the cousin found them, not because he starved, but because he was sick. In the spring, Crozier and the remaining two men accompanied this cousin on the Boothia Felix Peninsula to IS^eitchille, where there were many Innuits. Crozier and each of his men had guns and a plenty of amuuinitioii, and many pretty things. They killed a groat many ducks, nowycrs, &c., with their guns. Here they lived with the Innuits at Neitchille, and Crozier December, 1864.] HalVs Letter to Chapel. 109 became fat and of good health. Crozier told this cousin that he was once at IwillUc (Repulse Bay), at Winter Island and Igloolik, many years before, and that at the two last-named places he saw many Innuits, and got acquainted with them. This cousin had heard of Parry, Lyon, and Crozier, from his Innuit friends at Repulse Bay, some years previous, and therefore when Crozier gave him his name he recollected it. The cousin saw Crozier one year before he found him and the three men, where the two shij)S were in the ice. It was there that he found out that Crozier had been to Igloolik. * Crozier and the two men lived with the Neitchille Innuits some time. The Innuits liked him (C.) very much, and treated him always very kindly. At length Crozier, with his two men and one Innuit, who took along a Id-cik (!) [an India- rubber boat, as Ebierbing thinks it was, for all along the ribs there was some- thing that could be filled with air], left IsTeitchille to try to go to the Iwh-lu-na's country, taking a south course. When Ou-ela (Albert) and his brothers, in 1854, saw this cousin that had been so good to Crozier and his men, at Pelly Bay which is not far from Xeitch- ille, the cousin had not heard whether Crozier and the two men and l^eitchille Innuit had ever come back or not. The Innuits never think they are dead — do not believe they are. Crozier offered to give his gun to the cousin for saving his life, but he would not accept it, for he was afraid it would kill him, it made such a great noise, and killed everything with nothing. Then Crozier gave him a long, curious knife (sword, as Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too say it was), and many pretty things besides. [The dogs are aU in harness, and sledges loaded, and Innuits waiting for my letters. I promise to be ready in 30 minutes.] Crozier told the cousin of a fight with a band of Indians — not Innuits, but Indians. This must have occurred near the entrance of Great Fish or Back's River. More of this when I see you. * * * God bless you. C. F. HALL. This unusually ill-written letter is quoted almost literally in order to show Hall's excited state of mind on receiving some of the earliest of what he then believed to be news of Franklin's party. It will appear in the latter part of the Narrative that the "cousin," so much spoken of, was found by Hall to have been far less useful or humane to Crozier than is here noted. Hall's readiness to believe everything heard from the natives on his first acquaintance with them was largely 110 Superstitions. fDecembt^r, 1864. corrected by his further experieiice. At first he seems to have beheved ^hat he wished to believe. But his later journals record a number of coiTected judgments, always frankly entered, and even against liimself Nearly all the men were now absent from the settlement. After one unsuccessful attempt made by some of the natives who remained, to secure a walrus where the ice was found too thick for the animal to break through, a second effort was rewarded by their capturing the larger part of one, the remainder being lost by the ice-floes coming together and massing upon it. They had resumed their hunt in consequence of having seen, the night before, " a walrus springing right up through the ice-floor of their igloo^^; — to them a sure sign of success. Another instance of their low superstitious customs was thus shown : The pale-face, having expressed a desire for a change of food, was presented with the head and neck of a reindeer, for fear that there would be great trouble in catching a walrus ; but this provision could be placed neither on the floor nor behind the lamps on the platform, nor could it be either cooked or eaten with walrus-oil or on the same day with walrus-meat. Pieces of the frozen mass were, therefore, chipped off on the bed-platform with carefulness that not one should fall upon the floor, and they were dipped in old rancid seal-oil before being eaten. Four quarts of walrus-oil were at the same time jore- sented to Hall for his hunp. A leaf from Hall's journal of the 18th, written on receiving this present, will further show the care which he exercised in subjecting himself to the low superstitions of the tribe: Krh-ltt-a eaiiic in bring:inf( in bcr arms the licad and neck (raw, solid, and frozen) of a iciiidccr tor iiic, as slie lioaid that 1 wanted a change from wakus- December, 1864.J SuperstitionS. Ill meat. Tliis venison had to be completely enveloped before it could be brought into the U/loo, and, when in, could only be placed on the bed -plat form. To have placed it on the floor or on the platform behind the lire-lamp, among the -svalrus, musk-ox, and polar-bear meat which occupy a goodly portion of both of these places, would have horrified the whole town, as, according to the actual belief of the lunuits, not another wabus could be secured this year, and there would ever be trouble in capturing any more. Old Mother OoJc-bar-loo and the son of Erl-tti-a were both in my igloo at the time this present was made. Both these parties are, of course, greatly devoted to having everything according to the way of old — in other words, according to the custom of their fathers and many preceding generations. They watched my every movement ; but I was no small adept in this matter, so I pro- ceeded to gratify the calls of a hungry stomach in the following manner : I first unveiled ErTi-tu-ah gift on the very spot where she had placed it, and called for a hatchet. Frozen chips of meat now flew to the right and left, ivesticard; not one toward the floor. I had to be very, very cautious about that. These chips of raw frozen venison, when gathered up, made quite a pile for my breakfast. A cuj) of oil in which to sop these chips was soon near me. Then I proceeded, just as any Innuit would, to eat a hearty meal! The oil which I used as the sop was seal-oil, rancid and stinking. According to Innuit custom, walrus-blubber, or oil from it, cannot be used on any account with tood-noo meat. Notwithstanding the oil I used was of the condition I describe, yet I must state the truth that I have really got so far along in Innuits taste to like it thus, and to like it very much. Particles of meat that were scattered around on the bed-platform during my carving operations with the hatchet could not be brushed on the floor, as this would have brought down the indignation of my houseful of visitors. The toolc- too skins on which these fine dust pieces were had to be taken uji and shaken at the farther end or back side of the bed-place, next to the wall of the igloo. In this way, and in this wo.y only, could the meat particles, including even such snow and ice as had been jammed off the neck and head, be disposed of to the satisfiic- tion of an honest, kind-hearted, but superstitious people. The head of this gift, I regret to learn, cannot be cooked now, though from it I could have a delicious soup. The whys and wherefores are that it would make trouble among the walrus. It can be done after the walrusing season is over, and any time before it begins again. This Erk-tu-a was one of the visitors to the ships of Parry and Lyon on then- Second Expedition, 1821 to 1823. She gave Hall the 112 Oo-oo-took on Parry's Ship, 1824. [December, i864. Innuit tradition of a punishment mentioned in Pany's Narrative as administered for theft, wliich story is an illustration of the power of superstitious belief held hj this people in their an-ge-ho ; — or, as this word was pronounced at Ig-loo-lik, where Parry was, an-nat-ko. Oo- oo-took, a superior an-nat-ko, was charged by Parry when at Ig-loo-lik with the crime of theft for taking a shovel, or a part of one, from along- side of the ship. Parry had him taken to a place between decks, and his hands firmly lashed up to the mast. Then two guns were loaded and fired at him. The balls did not hit him, but one passed close to his head and lodged in the mast. The other ball went close to his loins, but did not injure him. The guns were so near his body that the powder felt hot. Parry fired one of the guns, and came very near killing himself, the ball glancing and rebounding in such a way that it passed close to his head. Another gun was about to be used in firing at Oo-oo-took, but it was found to be cracked (both barrel and stock), and, therefore, it was laid aside. Then Parry caused him to be whipped with something that was made of ropes with knots in them — cat-o'-nine-tails. The Innuits standing around and witnessing all this wanted to help Oo-oo-took defend himself, but he said: "Let the Kob- lu-nas ivy to kill me ; they cannot, for I am an an-nat-koy Then Oo- oo-took^s hands were untied, after which the koh-lu-nas tried to cut his head and hands off with long knives — probably swords. Every time a blow was struck, the extreme end of the knife came close to Oo-oo- took\s throat ; occasionally the blade came just above the crown of his head, and when the attempt was made to cut off his hands the long knife came down very near his wrists ; but, after all, he was uninjured because he icas a very good An-nat-ko., Some of the blows, however, did execution, cutting deep gashes in throat, head, and wrists ; but at occcuibcr, 1864.] Oo-00-took OH Viimjs SMp, 1824. 11 U each stroke, as the knife was Hfted, the wounds instantly healed wp, the cm-nat-ko being made whole by the Good Spirit who protected him. When Oo-oo-took was permitted to go on deck, he attempted to go ashore. He was passing out of the gangway when four men seized him ; l)ut during the struggle to free himself from further punishment, lie kicked one koh-lu-na down the snow-steps, which fall nearly killed him, and the kob-lu-na suffered with a lame back for a long time. Finally, the koh-lu-na conquered him and })ut him down between decks, in a cold, dark place, where he kept him two days and two nights, but while so confined, one good kob-lu-na., in a very sly wa}^ gave him something to eat ; otherwise he had nothing to eat or drink. After Oo-oo-took had been one day and one night in the dark hole, he thought he would use his power as an an-nat-ko, and destroy the vessel by splitting it through the middle from stem to stern. So he commenced calling to his aid the Good Spirit, when a great cracking- noise was made, now and then, under the ship, and at the end of the two days and two nights' confinement, the koh-lu-naSj fearing from such great and terrific noises that the ship would be destroyed, let Oo-oo-took go. This tradition, which Hall says was believed l)y all the other In- nuits around him, is in rather curious contrast with the account given by Parry himself, which is as follows : [Official Narrative, p. 412.] The delinquent was, therefore, put down into the Fury's store-room passage and closely confined there for several hours ; when, having collected several of the natives on board the Fury, I ordered him to be strii)ped and seized u]) in their i)resence, and to receive a dozen lashes on the back witli a cat-o'-niue-tails. The instant this was over, his countrymen called out, " Tt-wm «, ii-mun-na'''' — S. Ex. 27^—8 114 Hall Corrects his Dates. [o^cembfr, in64. that's ri4-ci-iubcr, i8«4.] Gifts Received from the Whalers. 1 1 5 half from the horizon, above a low, thick bank of frost-smoke which hung over the sea-ice. Through the upper margin of the frost-smoke tlie true sun was clearly seen without any dazzling rays; but, above, two mock-suns showed themselves with a brilliancy overpowering the eye. With his pocket sextant he measured the angular distance between the nearest limbs of the sun and the moon, and found it to be jipproximately 62° 30'; which he verified by the use of his larger sextant. His table of lunar distances in the Nautical Almanac showed this as the true distance for December 23d in place of the 22d, as he had at first supposed the day to be. Looking over his journal, he discovered that the lost day could be accounted for by the want of all notes on one of his sick days, November 25. The sledge party now returned, and were heartily welcomed as soon as their very quiet entrance was noticed. One of the sleds hav- ing become unmanageable by the breaking off of the muck-shoeing, the dogs had found it hard work to draw the heavy return load of natives and goods piled up on the other one; their fatigue had pre- vented the howling usual on their approaching home. Two chests and a box, directed to Hall, were soon slid along through the snow passage-wa)^ into his igloo. They contained a variety of donations from Captains Chapel, of the Monticello; Rogers, of the Concordia; White, of the Black Eagle; Tyson, of the Ante- lope, and Jeffries, of the George and Mary. Besides the very wel- come provision which made up the mass of these gifts, a quantity of different-colored beads and brass ornaments for the head had been sent as presents to the women, together with some articles to be exchanged for furs. In his record of the day, which not unfrequently is found written as though it were a letter to his two ucvci- forgotten 116 The Inmiits Fond of Ardent Spirits. [December, i864. friends, the following expressions show his appreciation of the change in diet now experienced : O, my detir Mr. Griuuell and Mr. Brevoort, wluit a glorious supper we bavo liad to-uigbt; a cluiuge now and then in bis food is wbat a wbite man likes. In- deed, tbe Innuits tbemselves like a cbange from their food to that of civilization after getting a little accustomed to it. The journal of the 24th contains the record of a second indul- gence to the natives in his serving- out to all who had assisted in build- ing his new igloo a quantity of Bourbon whisky, diluted with hot water and sweetened with sugar. This was dealt out contrary to his previous resolutions, but under the idea that, as they had acquired a taste for it from the whalers, it would be of service to him to indulge them occa- sionally. He adds: ''I have found that I can do without liquor, and I do not touch a drop of anything stronger than tea or coffee. I will not say the Innuits shall not have a few drops once in two or three weeks, but the quantity to each shall be very small." The sledge journey to the ships, 135 miles distant, had been made in ninety -nine hours, and the return journey in seventy-eight; allow- ing, as did Ebierbing, one of the party, one-half of the time on their return as spent in stoppages, the average distance traveled had been about three and a half miles an hour. Captain Chapel sent back to Hall a letter of cordial good feeling, offering him further assistance. It has been already noticed as a fact, well known in New London, that the whalers wintering in this region understood the instructions of their employers as authorizing them to assist him very freely. Chapel's letter, in speaking of the temperature where he was win- tering, said : Tbe mcrcuiy lias been from 36° to 56° below zero for tbe last fifteen days. The ;^l;iss lias ii«)t l>eeM al>()ve —.'W'^' for twenty days, and Ibc large spirit (liei- I I occcnibcr, 1S64.] DccYce oftlic An-gc-ho. 117 moiiietcr you gave mc, and in wliicli I put so much confidence, has been frozen for three Avceko. It froze with the mercury at — 30°, and wlien the mercury stood at 340 below, the spirit was 100° below. This would suri)rise our New Yorlc friends if we should tell theuj.* An invitation having been given to the men while visiting the ships that thoy should return and bring their wives with them, Ilall was glad to find that, at the next an-koot-ing, the an-gc-ko announced an order from the Good Spirit that these visits should not be made, lest death after death should occur in the tribe. In addition to other plain reasons for his being gratified at this decree, there was now a better hope that the whole party would move early in the spring to Repulse Bay. He felt sure that his further plans, which depended on this, would be defeated if these visits were made. On the 25th, he took a meridian altitude of the sun, and found the true altitude to be 1*^ 51'; the observed lowest limb to sea-ice horizon, '2°. The observation was made from an elevation 30 feet above the sea-level. Although the sun was quite too low for reliable work, yet the Latitude found by working up the observation was 64° 43' 45", an approximation he little expected, as the true latitude is 64° 46' 20". On the 26th, he went out with the natives on a walrus-hunt, to observe the movements of the ice in the Welcome as well as to see the walrus and the hunters The following account of the hunt is largely condensed from his own notes : At 8 a. m. he left his igloo, leading by a long trace-line one of *Iu coimcctiou with notes of like extreme temperatures and the unreliability of both nier- cuvial and spirit thermometers, see "The last of the Arctic Voyages," by Sir Edward Bolclu'r, 185.''), pp. 205-208; also, notes of a like character in other Arctic Narratives, including Sir George Nares' "Voyage to the Polar Sea." Hall's own journal has a number of such records; also of his repeated regrets that he had other than standard instruments with him. 118 The Walrus-Hunt. [December, 1S64. tlie large dogs which were to be employed in dragging the wah-iis home ; several other dogs were led by the Innuits, but by far the larger number were allowed to run loose, preceding or following the hunters. The distance to the walrus-grounds had been for some time constantly increasing as the land-floe widened, and the animals, accord- ingly, shifted their feeding-grounds to the new ice or to the fissures near its edge. Having crossed the half-mile belt of very rough ice near the coast, and advanced about six miles, Hall came to this edge. A breeze from the north was driving the floe to the southward at the speed of a quick walk, and as it pressed heavily on the edge of the fixed ice, the noise was so terrible that he was at times forced to draw himself back several paces from the point to which he had ventured. For scores of miles to the north and south, the drifting floe was grind- ing its uneven face against the firm but jagged front on which he stood. Mounting a high ridge of ice, he saw, as far as the eye could reach seaward and up and down the Welcome, a boundless field slowly moving onward toward the south, but crushing to atoms miles and miles of massive ice ; now rearing up mountains on mountains, now plowing up acres into high ridges. Ou-c-Ia, who had joined him, was unable to reach a large walrus which rose in a small water-space five fathoms ofl", for the " squeezed, rolling, craunching mass" was working between the floes. He gave a quick signal to those on the drifting floe, and Ar-mou and Ar-too-a run rapidly toward the walrus; but just ^?> Ar-mou had his harpoon raised, the animal disappeared in the water. Hall and Ou-c-la then directed their steps toward the loose pack which the others had already gained, to reach which the sharp eye of the Innuit quickly discovered the only possible crossing. A quick run, a few steps over sludge and Dccriubrr, 1864.J The Walnis-IIimt. ll'J powdered ice, a leap from this tumbling block to tliat one, and a final leap to the driving- floe, brought the two safel}' (►ver. Walruses could now be seen in every direction; sonic lint- ting up ice-fragments from the solid main ; some with their heads through the butted holes ; some with a large ])art of the body above the ice. The hunters were busily at work. In one direction two Innuits Avere under full lun for the same blowing walrus, the dogs running around them. All at once these hunters stopped, for the animal had taken the alarm and gone down. In another direction an ex- cited group were seen, one throwing the lance, another holding on a line, one jumping this way and another that, for a walrus appeared to be w o p p- p p. B. — Joint ^vitll thongs loosened, when not in use, to preserve their elasticity. C — Knoll on thr lian- (11(1 to secure a firm hold. a secured prize. With some difficulty Hall gained this spot, l)nt found 120 A Death- Struggle. [Dccrmbrr, is64. only one Iiiiiiiit remaining, while the reddened ice and the hole showed a severe conflict. Shoo-she-ark-nook had harpooned a very large walrus, and he and Ebierbing had lanced it until it was almost dead. The har})oon, however, slipped out and the animal esca})ed, Ebierbing losing his lance-head. An extensive floe of the " walrusing-ice" was now seen shooting over the ice on which they stood, and advancing from the north at the s])eed of a moderate walk ; its thickness was two inches, the same as tliat on which they stood. They were two miles from the land-floe, upon ice which bent like leather at every step, often yielding two or three inches without a fracture, and it would not do to remain at rest on such ice. They were compelled to be constantly in motion, as the situation demanded. Hall hastened to a second group of Innuits who were as busily occupied as the first, and in a few moments found himself pulling away witli others on a line which was fast to a large walrus. After a few ])ulls, the half-killed animal came up in a flouncing, tumbling way. lie was furiousl}' mad. He had not only been harpooned, but lanced and lanced again and again, so that at every blow, quarts of thick, dark blood were thrown up, scattering itself about, painting the ice, the dogs, and tlio party with a crimson hue. Wliat a lioirilic lookinj;- creature a walrus is, especially in the face! It looks \vick('end liis fury on tlic first of his ene- mies who approached. He tlien aj;ain liipjx'n'd back, and, as the iipliltcd laiicc was poised, moved violently forward and upward, throwin*,^ forward liis head with a circling sweep, as if to drive his tusk to the very heart of his iissailaiit. What a terrible blow a walrus can deal with his liead and tusks ! W'Wn he came up to breathe, wdiicli ho did several times through difterent holes, resting with his tusk hooked onto the edge of the ice, at every breathing he expelled 122 Disposal of the Walrus. [December, 1864. tliiouiih liis wliite-wallod moutli a frightful Stream of hot life-blood, and as the hungry dogs rushed u]) iearlessly to the very i'ouutain Avhence the luscious, sa- vory gore issued, the dying walrus quickly raised his head and struck it forward Avith tremendous force, though to little purpose, as the dogs were too quick dodg- ing the bloAvs. Shoo-shc-((rl--7iooJv- at last cut a gash in the neck with his pelond (long knife) and thrust the point into the very marrow of the spine. A fresh opening was now made in the ice, and to this the carcass was towed. Then the hne, made fast to the tough skin on the nose, was taken to the point of a small hummock five fathoms distant, and back again through a hole in the same tough skin. With this pur- chase, five of the party pulled away on the line, gradually sliding the carcass upon the ice. It weighed about 2,200 pounds. This done, each In- nuit sprang to the task of cutting open the carcass from head to tail, that it might cover over as large an area as possible on the ice. Yet the moment they commenced to haul up, the ice began to bend, and by the time the walrus was disemboweled, the water covered it G inches deep. He was now cut up, longitudinally, into three parts, without being skinned, and wliile this cutting was going on, the dogs acted like so many devils, and it was impossible, even with a spear, to keep them away from tlio blood and flesh. The backbone, the lights, and a small ])nrtif tlic animal is to dig but one clam at a time, and then come up to blow and ex})el the shell. He wonders how it opens the clam so skillfully as not to fracture the shell. The homeward journey was attended with the usual troubles in crossing fissures and regaining the land-floe, but at 4.30 p. m. the party reached their igloos. The dogs, divided into three teams, drew the walrus-rolls, which slid along over the rough ice more readily than a sled Ou-e-la, Ar-too-a, and Nu-Jcer-^Jioo, who had been further to the southeast, joined Hall and his party on the way home, Ou-e-la having lost his harpoon in an unsuccessful attempt to secure another .walrus. One animal only having been taken at this time, the \\\\\\X was resumed in the closing days of the month, when a very long journey was made to determine whether the animals were deserting their feed- ing-grounds. Many holes were seen, but no indications of a recent visit, and there seemed no prospect of further success until a gale should carry out the heavy drift, and young ice should again form. For some who were out at this time on the floe, Too-koo-li-too kc])t. a beacon-light burning on the hill-top. The men endured much exposure ; when it was dark, they lay down on the ice with the dogs and slept until they became cold, then aroused themselves and walked again till they got warm; alternately sleeping and walking through the whole night. Chaptei^ y. WINTER LIFE AND JOURNEY TO THE WAGER. JANUARY TO MAY, 18B5. 125 CHAPTER V. New Year's Day — Hall's srEEcii— Fkastixo — Brilliant auroras— He visits wtiti tiii: Ix- NUITS THE whalers AT DEPOT ISLAND — HOSPITALITIliS AND AMUSEMENTS ON BOARD — Return to Noo-wook — Shoo-she-ark-nook persuades some of the Innuits to aban- don Hall— Supposed earthquake — New orders of the An-ge-ko— Meteorological observations — Want of confidence in the instruments — Experiments as to the freezing-point of mercury — Severity of the cold — Difficulty in making rec- ords—Hall's BRASS TABLETS— Supplies xearly exhausted— Ebierbing comes to the RESCUE — Flocks of eider-ducks in the Welcome — Native customs in sealing — Nu-ker-ziioo's and Ebierbing's ill-success — Supplies of provision, fuel, and light nearly gone — Plenty restored — The season moderating — Plan for survey of THE W^ELCOME — HaLL'S BROKEN HEALTH — THE TIDES IN THE RIVER — REMOVAL TO THE Wager. The first day of the year 1865, Sunday, was one of gale and (h-ift, confining- all within their huts. To make the Tnnuits acquainted with some of the pleasant customs of civilization, and, by so doing, furthei* gain their respect and good-will, Hall kept the second day of the mmitli as " New Year's Day." The mean of six thermometers showed a tem- perature of 62° below freezing-point, and no cloud was seen on tlie sky. Yet Hall says, " We have all been as comfortable as though within houses of brick in New York." Too-koo-li-too having informed all the Innuits that calls were expected at the i(jloo from the crest of which the American Hag would 127 128 New Year's Bay. [January, JSti5. be fl}'iiig', visits were received at a very early liour, the visitors having but a short distance to come through the snow-covered passage-ways which connected ahiiost all the ifjloos. Each one was greeted with "IIap})y New Year! Happy New Year!" A breakfast of frozen veni- son, well relished, was followed by another on tood-noo, to which young OoJc-har-loo, son of Erk-tii-a, treated all hands. Hall then set a table made of sea-chests resting on snow-pedestals. It was 25 feet in length, GUOUND I'LAN OF VILLAGE IGLOO. I, fiitraucc; 11, central i^jr/oo ; B, bed-platform; F, lloor; L, laiup. extending into the huts of Ou-e-la, Ar-7nou, and Nii-ker-^Jioo, and hav- ing for seats around it snow-blocks cushioned with deer-skins. Flags were draped, and lamps were lit all along the table, and at 2 p. m. twenty-one grown persons sat down to the feast. Mammark, a wife, for sj)('{'i;il reasons, and Ook-har-Ioo, because still an invalid, being ruled • •III 1)\ ciistoni, iiUi by llienLselves. January, IS65.J TIlC FcttSt ttlld the KcfJ-hlV-Hk. 129 Vegetable and pemmican soup and sea-bread were furnished, witli coffee and isinglass-jelly, and raisins were freely distributed for dessert. Too-koo-li-too waited on the guests. On their rising from the table, many of them placed their hands in front, close by where they had abundantly stowed away the good things, and cried out, "Good! very good ! " At the second table, eighteen children were gathered, while the men retired to Ou-e-la^s hut to smoke. At 5 p. m., the men were treated to brandy punch, of which a few sips also were offered to the women, as they had asked Too-koo-li-too to let them taste what their husbands had told them of as a heart-warming and happy-making drink. Erk-tu-a said she had drink of the same kind many times on board Parry's ships, years before. The snow-domes were soon after made to ring with the songs of eleven of the women, mingled with the noise of repeated performances by the men on the hey-loiv-tik, and followed by the thunderings of a dance. Each woman had on her forehead a bright brass band, while down one side of her face hung the usual long pig- tail adornment; on her breast was a 10-inch square cloth, the ground-work of which was scarlet, and the fringe, scores of long strings of beads and glass buttons; the body of the breastplate being covered with the same. Ebierbing was called out, and responded with a song, which, according to In- nuit custom, was his own property — not transferable. He had pro- foundly attentive listeners, and Too-koo-li-too said she never had thought her husband could do so well. Hall then gave notice through Ebierbing that he had a speech to make, and Ebierbing made quite a speech in giving the notice. Dress- ing as a civilized man and taking a central position under a snow-arch, S. Ex. 27 9 130 HaWs 8peecll. [January, 1865. Hall then "began with liis best bow" by expressing his satisfaction at having lived with them four moons as a brother, without either having spoken one bad word to them, or having heard one from them to him- self, lie tried to impress them with the greatness of his native coun- try, and the protection always shown to its citizens by its one great E-she-mut-ta (Chief), enforcing this idea by pointing to the flags around him Giving them some idea of the Queen of England also, whom he called "the Great Mother that owned all the big water and the land on which they were, as well as the country of Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too," he turned to these two, and told of their visit to Eng- land and to the palace of the Queen. After offering a good deal of wholesome advice to persuade his hearers to have more care as to their intercourse with white men, some of whom, he reminded them, had robbed them of their hunting lines, while others had taught them to be profane, and had introduced disease among them, he repeated in full his reasons for leaving home. "I have come," he said, "to your countr}' to find out all about some white brothers who came to your land many years ago, but who never came back. Many of these brothers had wives and children. Their wives want the Innuits to tell me all about what they know of their husbands. Their children want you to tell me all about what you know of their fathers. * * * I shall want you to help me a good deal ; you have told mo that you would go with me to Neitchille, and help me to find out all about the ship or two ships, as some of you have told me, that were two years, as you all say, in the ice near that place. I have pow- der, balls, sliot, and caps enough for "us all for three years. All these things 1 will shai-c witli }'ou. • 80 long as I am in your country, let us be as we lui\ o been fur the four moons just passed — a band of brothers January, 1S65.] An AuYOTa. ' 131 and sisters. I thank you all very nnicli. Good ni<^dit." On hiis con- cluding- a very long* talk, of which tlic preceding is the substance, Too-koo-H-too tokl Hall that he had much pleased his hearers, who wished him to talk again He had throughout the speech made fre- quent pauses, so that his interpreters could make him perfectly under- stood. The three days which followed the feast had been again days of gale and drift. The meteorological notes of the fourth day of the month read: "This morning the mean of five thermometers is 70° below freezing-point. The registers of three others are rejected. One of them, the longest, indicates over 100° below freezing-point; No. 2 registers 110°, and No. 7 w^ill not register more than 77° below the freezing-point. A long and heavy cloud overhung the open water in the Welcome, its vapor looking like steam from a monstrous boiling cauldron." On the evening of the 7th, at 8.45, a band of children came run- ning into Hall's Igloo, crying out '■^ Ok-slmm-miing ! Ok-sJium-mung!''' — (Lights very fine.) He thus describes this aurora: When he registered the thermometer at 7 p. m., the sk}^ was clear and cloudless, and there were no evidences of auroral action. At 8.45 there were three belts of aurora extending nearly in straight lines from near the horizon in the southeast up to the zenith, and thence within 40° of the horizon to the northwest. To the southwest there were belts of aurora, com- passing a large portion of the heavens from 15° to 40° above the hori- zon, these belts having contortions or folds like those in the Con- stellation, Draco. A fresh breeze was blowing from the nortli-north- west. Thermometer, 72° below freezing-point; barometer, 30.04. 132 The Natives Wish to Visit the Ships Af/ain. [January, jses. The rays of the aurora were vertical; it appeared all alive, as if in high glee, dancing to and fro with almost the rapidity of lightning. The three belts extending from southeast to northwest were the most interesting, as they often flashed into the brilliant colors of the rain- bow. Each belt occasionally resolved itself into two lines or tiers of rays; as one line would dance rapidly to windward, the other would dance as quickly in the opposite direction. This extraordinary display lasted five minutes — an unusual time. Hall was so impressed with it tliat he wrote, " If at home it could be witnessed for one moment, one would say, 'I never saw northern lights before.'" The natives were now looking forward to hunt again for walrus when the ice should form. After securing one animal they would renew their visit to the whale-ships. They pleaded for this visit their promise to assist the captains in getting fresh meat for the crews, and their having received from them many presents without making any in return. Hall's journal says : Innuits are a strange people to deal with; a wliite man, to get along with them, must have the patience of Job. They are the children of nature, and like to do just as a notion leads them. I learned this evening that half the people of the village, including several of the women, are making arrangements to accom- pany me down to Depot Island. I must try to check this, for if the Innuits can be induced to be here in the middle of February, I can make my desired journey next spring. If I had a small vessel at Eepulse Bay, I could learn all the particu- lars of the Franklin Expedition in two years; with Innuits alone it may take live or more. 11 I liaxc, liowever, a team of ten dogs, mj'self Ebierbing and Too- koo-li-too can reach Boothia Felix in the spring. I regret that I have not a few white men with me. But a second visit to the ship at Depot Island was arranged. Tlio party was made up of Hall, six Innuit men, Too-koo-li-too, and six other females, a boy (Oot-jnk), and two babes; all of whom were jauiiary, 1S65.1 IlalVs Visit to the Whttlcrs. 133 seated on three sledges drawn by twenty-two dogs. Tlio boy, Oot-pik, had awakened in Hall much interest by his brightness and his liand- some figure. When an infant, he was near perishing by being cast off by his parents, who thought that he was near death and would never be other than a burden to them, and his fate was just decided, on their taking fright when his hair began to fall off But Ar-goo-moo-too-Uk and his wife, who had but one child of their own, by the consent of the boy's parents, promptly interposed to adopt him, and he very soon recovered his full health. Quick to learn, he was now fast becoming ready in speaking English. The sledge party were well supplied with venison, walrus-meat, and blubber, and reindeer-furs for traffic; besides their own provision and the articles necessary for use on their journey. The thermometer, when they bade good-bye to the twenty-six Innuits left behind, was 72'^ below freezing-point. Running for a short distance directly south over the land, they struck out for the sea-ice soon found to be smooth, and then followed the coast, with the open water on their left hand at the distance of less than a mile. Large flocks of ducks were seen, and fast- streaming columns of vapor rose vertically into a heavy fog-bank extending north and south as far as the eye could reach. At 3 p. m., leaving the coast and striking the tracks of the party who had gone down in December, they halted for the night at the old ifjloo^ which had been occupied by that company, about 17 nautical miles south-southwest from their vvinter quarters at Noo-wook. A load of venison and tood-noo was soon secured from one of the many de- posits which had been made in the last season. Two small storehouses were next quickly built near enough to the igloo for them to hear any attempt the dogs might make to break into these for the meat ; and 134 The Igloo Made on the Journey. [January, js65. Avhile one of Ou-e-his wives shoveled out the snow-drift from the main hilt, the other increased the thickness of its walls by banking up more snow on the outside. Hall's offered assistance to the women in this work of using the por-kut, (snow-shovel,) was refused by the husband. The drift being thrown out of the way, Ou-e-la then entered and made a bed-platform on each side of the igloo, dividing the two by a trench a foot in depth. GROUND-PLAN OF IGLOO. January 1), 1805. Scale, i"-12". The women and children having then crowded in, made up the beds by spreading over the platforms their furred deer-skins, and lit tlic tliicc firo-lamps to melt snow for the thirsty. The men on enter- ing carefully Ix-at tlieir jackets and Jcodlin, (outside breeches,) with their ar-ni/r-fars^ to ])rev<^iit the warmth of the igloo during the night from January, 1863. J The Sleep in the Snow-liut. 135 nieltlng" the snow upon them ; for if it again froze upon them it would make the garments heavy as well as cold. This thorough beating re- AK-KOW-TAR, SNOW-BEATEU. The wood of this from one of Frankliu's sliips. quired a fidl half hour. The temperature within the hut, under the influence of the lamps and of the crowd, quickly rose from 41 "^j hut was again lowered by the venison in the trench, which, when first brought in, smoked as if on fire. To prevent the tongue and lips from being frozen at the first taste of the meat, it was held, for a few moments, in mittened hands and breathed upon, the children's share being kept awhile in their parents' mouths. Oii-e-his half-breed in- fant, slipping entirely naked from its mother's hood, played on the bed, and on Ou-e-Ms raising the child to his shoulders, it stood erect, balancing itself, swinging its arms and crowing at the feat. At 9 p. m., the whole party huddled together for the night, some being compelled to sit upright through the long hours of sleep. Sev- enteen breathers were sealed up, with a large snow-block, in a hut but 10 feet in diameter ! On opposite sides of the trench, nine were on one platform and eight on the other ; every one (Innuit fashion) having the head toward the trench. In the morning, between the hours of 3 and 4, the men waked, ate a quantity of deer-meat, smoked, and again went to sleep. At 5, the whole party were amused to find that the lamp-smoke during the night had covered them with soot. Hall waked with a severe head- ache from the " excess of carbonic-acid gas generated by three fire- lights and seventeen persons." 136 Hall Frequently Frost- Bitten. [January, 1S63. Having- re-shod their runners with ice, they now repeated their experiences of the preceding- day and made a journey of 2G miles in a south-southwest direction, tlie children riding all the way, but the grown persons about half the time walking or running- beside the sleds. SEAL-SKIN IUXJTS. BEAR-SKIN MITTENt Watching Hall, the natives on this day, and on the days follow- ing, thirty times restored his frost-bitten nose and cheeks by their vigorous rubbing. He accounts for this frosting by the fact that for the preceding month he had eaten but little, having lost all appetite for walrus-meat, and by his leaving his "phiz" unprotected, as he wis] led it to become hardened to cold. His cheek at one time re- mained frozen fifteen minutes. In the i[/loo occupied the second night, slabs of frozen l-oiv (walrus- hide) were hung on spears running crosswise near the top of the hut. They were tlius partially thawed by morning, when the dogs were (•;ill('(l ill one at a time and fed on short strips of the meat. On tlie tliird day a furious gale was encountered, whicli increased bolow Cape Fullcrton, compelling a halt at 2.15 }). m., at the end of a journey of 26 miles, during which it had been necessary to encase the children in reindeer-skins, and lash them on Ou-e-la!s sled. TIk; iirst sti-oke of tlie spear in testing at tliis place the snow and January, 1803.] A Scol-AfjloO. 137 ice for a new hut now struck the dome of a seal r/r/Zoo, the inclosure in which the young seal is born and reared. It was oval, its diameters being 4 J and 5i feet, and its height from the floor of sea-ice to its dome, 2 feet. Those which Hall had before seen were circular. Tlie «)})en- ing for the seal to come up into this snow-dome made by her through the sea-ice, was near the end of the longer diameter. The party found their resting-place for this night warmer than that in their first ?V//oo, which they said was because tliis hut was entirely new. They were, however, several miles from land, and in danger of being driven by the storm into the broad Hudson Bay. On the two following days the wind was fair, and the thermome- ter ranged from 36° to 34°. On the 12th, their fourth igloo was made on a small island 28 miles due west of their third. The land on their right was too low to be seen, but, according to the Eskimos, it was marked by deep inlets and bays, one of which extended to the north from 50 to 75 miles. On the left a ridge of hummocks intervened between them and the open water, a distance of from one to three miles. Hall expresses a desire to make an accurate survey of this whole coast-line, even from York Factory to Repulse Bay ; as, from what he had seen, he judged that no chart gave anything like an accurate delineation of it — certainly none showed the coast from Cape Fullerton to Depot Island. On account of the shore being very low and nearly uniform, a survey would have required much time and care. At a late hour of the next day, Oti-e-Ja, mounting a hummock, pointed out the masts of the whale-ships, which his quick eye discov- ered when Hall could not see them ; they appeared only as sharp 138 Arrival at Depot Island. [January, isos. needle-lines in the distance. The dogs were now urged to their utmost speed, but the storm-clouds shut in upon them before Hall could take a compass-bearing which might have saved some hours of wandering. Traveling then became exceedingly difficult, until, accord- ing to Eskimo usage in such cases, a woman was selected as the guide. One of Ou-e-ki's wives well executed this task, although for a time mis- led by a light on Ar-goo-moo-too-UJc's sled which was seeking to regain it« track. This light was from a piece of moss at the bottom of a dish containing a little oil ; at first she believed it to be on the ships. Re- gaining their course, the party soon saw a signal swinging high on the mast of the Monticello, its crew having heard the cries of the dog- drivers and dogs for half a mile back. Hall had closely shaved his hair and beard for this journey, yet devoutly wishing when he cut them that the ice could have been kept off, that they might have been saved to warm him. He was distinguishable from the rest of the snow- covered party by his voice only ; but was soon recognized by Captain Chapel, and welcomed to his old quarters on the ship. After partaking of the first hospitalities of the Monticello, and seeing that his party were properly cared for, he turned into his bunk, expecting a full season of rest. But the change from the igloo was too sudden ; he slept none during the night. After his next meal he could not help entering in his journal that he " liked civilization food" as well as any man, and it was only through his determination to fathom the myster}^ relative to the lost expedition that he could possildy submit to live the life of the Eskimos as he had done and as he must still do. He cono-ratulated himself that he had o not forgotten how to use his plate, knife, and fork after 135 days' disuse of said aiticles. January, J 863.] Amitscmeuis 0)1 Bom'd the Whalers. 139 In this harbor, a little more than a mile west of Depot Island, four whalers besides the Monticello were anchored within rifle-shot of each other ; these were the George and Mary of New London ; the lilack Eagle and the Antelope of New Bedford ; and the Concordia of Fair- haven, Mass. Each was banked up Avith snow six or eight feet thick and nearly up to the gunwale, the upper deck being well housed. On board the Monticello, although but little coal was used, the tempera- ture was kept above 32° throughout the vessel. Five other whalers, including the Ansell Gibbs and the Tender, Helen F., were anchored in a commodious harbor completely land-locked on the northwest side of Marble Island, an islet about 15 miles in length, lying 12 miles off the coast. On board all of these vessels the amusements usually gotten up by Arctic voyagers for maintaining the cheerfulness and health of their crews were at this time in full play, and were generally of a theatrical charac- ter, varied by masked balls and by several forms of the dance. Among the exercises of speaking and singing, the memory of Franklin and the fate of his expedition were not forgotten. The new-comers were par- ticularly pleased with the farces, while Too-koo-li-too, in her turn, gave the ships' companies great satisfaction by her skill in a Green- land dance. Hall experienced a full share of the hospitalities frequently recip- rocated between the vessels at the two islands. The meat which his party had brought down with the design of dividing it among the five ships at Depot Island had been pounced upon by one crew. But the supply of fresh meats was plentiful on all the ships, and the condition of the musk-ox meat previously obtained, and of the hogs brought out from home, was a good indication of the care taken by the wlialers 140 Hospitality on Board. [jauuary, ises. a"-ainst scurvy, cases of which were very few and of the lightest fonn. His first disappointment was the news that botli the Antelope and the Black Eagle had been in Repulse Bay in August previous ; that the land was then covered with reindeer, and that these ships had looked for him, and would probably have remained there all the win- ter had they found him. These vessels had seen many whales, and each ship had secured ten; all which had been seen, were small. Hall's disappointment was followed by his entire failure to obtain now a promise from Ou-e-Ia of a dog-team for his spring sledge journey, or the loan of a team from the ships ; they would need all their dogs for the early spring floe-whaling. During his stay on the whalers, unwillingly protracted to the 10th of the following month, he spent much time on the volumes of his Arctic library, left on the Monticello in August; especially on those works which would best aid him on this voyage and on his proposed future voyage to the North Pole He did not fail to record some strange reading of the thermometers, together with interest- ing auroral and other atmospheric phenomena. On the 15th, the mercurial thermometer on the Monticello's mainmast read, at 7 a. m., — 44° ; at noon, — 43° ; at 7 p. m., — 45° ; while his own ethereal ther- mometer read, at the same hours, — 37°, — 36°, — 38°. He believed the last three records too high. He says : I am convinced of this by the test I hitely made at my winter quarters by exposing:, one night, a dish of pure mercury to the out-door air. My tliermometers arc numlH'rcd 0, J, 11, 111, IV, Y, VI, and VII. In tlic morning', Avlien my Xo. 0 llnniioiiicter stood at 40^.5, the mercury was frozen so hard that only the sharp nails of the finger could be made to penetrate it. Undoubtedly 5° or (P liigher toni])ernture would have left it in a frozen, unfluid state. Some mercury will freeze at — 38*^ ; pure may not at even — 40<^. February, is(>5.] Hotv to Determine Time at the Pole. 141 lu Chapel's thermometer the mercury would not run down the tube while inverted until a few degrees of warmth were communicated to it, ])ut Uw, ther- mometer continued to act. I am sati«tied that a good mercurial instrument will indicate the true state of the atmosphere several degrees below the temperature of the mercury with which it is filled. In one of liis leisure hours, revolving in mind the problem f>f determining time at the North Pole, he came to the conclusion that with the helj) of an English nautical almanac, Greenwich time could be found there by star occultations or by the eclipses of Jupiter's satel- lites, but perhaps oftener b}^ lunar distances. He had at first reasoned that at a place where there could be no such thing as a day, and no cardinal point but one ; where all the lieavenly bodies revolve paral- lel to the horizon, with the exception of the change caused b}' the variation of declination ; where there is no meridian, or rather where every meridian is : — it would seem impossible to determine time. * There is one great difficulty that will be experienced bywhomsoever shall reach the Pole; that is, there will ie no means for detcrmhihig time by astronomical ohservations. How can there be "when all the heavenly bodies in view of the observer while at the Pole are continually revolving about him parallel with his horizon. The only exception to this is simply the variation of decli- nation. At the Korth Pole there can be no tq^per or loiver culminations of the sun, moon, planets, and stars, for it is a point where there is no meridian; then it follows that there is no day there — no solar day, no siderial day, no lunar day. W^hy no day ? "Because a day is the interval time between the departure of a heavenly body from any meridian and its succeeding return to it ;" and there being no meridian at the North Pole, there can be no departure from or return to one by a heavenly body. At the North Pole there is no meridian ; it is a point nevertheless where the meridians of every spot on the face of the globe meet, or, in other words, where they terminate to 0 (zero or nothing). But a new idea had just struck me. Time can be determined at the North Pole by lunars. Having a Nautical Almanac and the usual instrnments, it can be easily done. Take one observation of the sun's altitude, or of either of the planets or stars used in lunar obser- vations; one altitude of the moon, without any particular care in noting the exact time when these two observatiens are made ; then carefully observe the angular distance of sun and moon, or moon and one of the planets or stars used in lunar observations, and note the time. [I did not mean by my references to determining time at the Polo that this will be North Polar time or mean time. Certainly not, for this, as I understand the matter, would be absurd. To say that such an event occurred at such an hour North Pole time or mean time would be out of all reason]. Having made the usual observations in taking a lunar, Avork these up. The true distance of the moon from sun, or planet, or star being found, proceed with the use of the lunar tables as in lunar work. The result will be Greenwich time if the British or American Nautical Almanac be the one used. I do not consider it necessary that one at the Pole should have a chronometer 1 42 Hall Returns to NoO-lVOOJi. [February, 1S65. On the lOtli of February he began his return journey to Noo- icooJ:, leaving' behind him, as he had unwillingly anticipated, the larger number of the natives. They had made themselves very useful in 1 muting for the crews the seal, the fox, and the bear, with the usual varied success and excitement of the chase. Ar-mou at one time going alone in pursuit of a large polar, harpooned him, but, in his determi- nation to secure the animal, he was himself fairly dragged over the thin ice to the sea and nearly drowned. Ou-e-la and Ar-mou, before going down in December, had agreed that they would early return. But now, with their wives and friends, they were not unwillingly detained by the cajotains. On bidding the whalers good-bye, Hall was furnished with some substantial and even delicacies ; for he was unable to conceal the fact that he considered some "civilization food" as almost a necessity. After the play of Damon and Pythias, given in his honor on the previous evening, he made a speech to 140 seamen gathered on one of the ships, complimenting the courage and hardi- hood of the American whalers who succeeded in finding harbors in a that had been adjusted to Greenwich or to any other time in making his lunar observations. Indeed, it may be supposed that he knows nothing of time save the year. By the observed alti- tude and variation of declination of the snn or one of the i)lanets, he can determine the month of the year, and by the lunar distance the day of the month, and by repeated workings of the lunar observations can determine Greenwich mean time as a]>proximately as lunars will admit. Having Greenwich mean time by it, one easily gets Greenwich apparent time. The party now at the Pole, we will say, is desirous to i^roceed toward Greenwich. He consults his watch, which is now at band and in running order. A good time-pieee should, however, 1)e in hand at the time the angular distance of the moon from the sun, or the moon from such other heavenly body as may be used in the lunar observations is observed, and the exact moment noted. No matter what hour this instrument is set to before commencing the observation, the result of the lunar obser- vations will show how much too fast or slow the chronometer is on Greenwich time ; and thus one has in hand the instrument to tell him at any moment, therefore, the Greenwich mean time. When the time-piece indicates the apparent time of Greenwich of Oh. Om. Os., the sun (we will suppose it to be summer in north latitude) is, on the meridian of Greenwich, exactly in the direction of Greemcxch. The observer at this moment directs his compass-sight and takes a bearing. He proceeds, as he lifaves the Pole, not only south (there is only one cardinal point at the North Pole, Avhich is south), but on the meridian of Greenivich. Greenwich mean time may be determined by an occnltation of a stai or of a planet; also, by the eclipses of .Jupiter's satellites. Jupiter, liowever, is alternately in sight and out of sight for six years at a time at the Pol.-s of the earth. (Journal on board the whaler at Depot Island.) Fcbriinry, IS65.] Arrivol cit Noo-wook. 143 locality in the bay where a like success had not been met with Ijy 11. M. S. Griper in 1824.* Beginning his journey at . There is an excellent harbor in the island, but its entrance is dangerous. At spring tides there are only 13 feet on the bar. The Griper drcAv 10 feet. 144 A Beported Earthquake. [Febru«i-y, isws. ney. The natives were living on short commons, because of tlieir recent ill success in hunting. Ebierbing, on the day following, while on an unsuccessful walrus hunt, killed one of a large flock of eider-ducks (Mei-titl's), of the weight of which Hall satisfied himself by first bal- ancino- it with the two books "The Fate of Franklin" and " Burritt's Geography of the Heavens" in a tin kettle, and then balancing these volumes with a bag of rifle-balls. He found the weight of the duck to be that of 312 rifle-balls, =i 6 pounds. The bird had in its gizzard snail-shells in perfect condition, which were preserved for examination as to their species. On the 17th, at 50 minutes past noon, a low rumbling noise was heard, resembling that of a train of cars slowly crossing a bridge and dying gradually away. The Innuits said that a like noise had been heard twice during Hall's absence, coming from the southeast, and continuing for a long time, and spoke of it as Toon-giva, the bad Spirit, shaking the earth. During a new performance by the an-ge-Jco, to which he summoned all hands at midnight, he issued the order that the kook-higs must not be emptied, nor the frost scraped from the ice- windows of the igloos till sunrise. This order, however, was accom- panied by another decree for an exchange of wives; and on his own wife's refusal to go to Ebierbing's hut for this purpose, the An-ge-ko, (Ar-too-a,) beat her most unmercifully. A few days after, fourteen of the Innuits moved a few miles southward, ostensibly to be nearer the seal and walrus grounds and their depositaries of reindeer-meat. About an equal number, includ- ing his two fast friends, remained with Hall. Shoo-slie-ark-nook, through some ill feeling, had endeavored to persuade every one to desert him. During this native's sickness and that of his son. Hall had closel}' watched both, and saved them when at death's door. For February, 1S65.1 A Sccd Sccurcil 1)7/ Ingenuity. 145 a few days, now, lie was placed under serious Mpprehension that SJioo- sJte-arJc-noolc would induce all to leave him with Ebierbing and Too- koo-li-too, to get along- the best way they could alone. The fel- low was, not long after, brought to terms when his own necessities returned upon him. Ebierbing, on the 19th, shot a seal weighing 125 pounds. It was too fat to sink, and its blubber made more than four gallons of oil. The meat was divided equally among all the families. Having no other means of securing a second seal which he had killed at too great a distance from the land-ice to be reached by his harpoon, he had endeavored to lodge in its body a line shot out from a rifle-grooved ball ; but, each time, his line broke. His companions, talking over the matter, returned to the spot with Hall, and found the water now cov- ered with a thin coat of ice. Lashing together a number of poles and flats, and making of them an oonar (seal-spear) a hundred feet in length, they fastened to its end a harpoon carrying a seal-line, and then pushed this long pole through a hole in the ice toward the seal. It re- quired skill to direct it, as the sea-ice is not transparent, but on the second attempt, after sunset, the seal was reached, and the harpoon withdrawn an arm's length and struck into the animal by a skillful blow. Snow was next kicked upon the body, and then thoroughly rubbed off" with the feet, to prevent its hairy coat from being loaded with ice. A hole was cut in its nose and a line passed through it, by a loop of which, thrown over Hall's shoulders, he dragged it to his igloo, sharing it equally with all. On the 24th and 25th a severe gale prevailed from the north- northwest, the thermometer ranging from —23° to —34°, and the snow drifting thickly. Over the Welcome, the fog-bank showed that the ice S. Ex. 27 10 146 Loiv hut Unreliable Thermometer Headings. [February, isbs. had been driven off shore. The mean of the five thermometers at 7 p. m., when the gale had entirely subsided, was — 39°; but Hall had now further reason to place no confidence in two out of seven instruments, one of which stood at — 100° and the other at — 75°. Shortly after this he wrote : '' It is annoying to have but one of nine thermom- eters, right. But by taking even one to the United States, and having it compared with a standard, with my data, all the observations can be worked up to said standard." During the night of the 26tli his five self-registering thermometers read, —48°, —46°, -48°, —48°, — /)2°. At 8 a. m. he experi- mented with the mercury given to him by Mr. Green, one of the in- strument-makers of New York, for his artificial horizon. Pouring some of this into a dish near his thermometer, he found the mass quickly frozen, small spherical drops remaining fluid until the pressure of a pencil changed their form. When the mass of the mercury again became fluid, or nearly so, with the rising temperature, these globules remained solid. The following table gives the results of his observations ; the thermometers numbered I, II, and VII, at first being below the marks, were not read : 1 --s Therniometers numbercc — k 'J Mercurial test — state of ex- posed mercury. 0. I. II. III. IV. V. VI. vn. h. m. i »• -37°. 5 -38°. 5 -38°. 5 1 -44° ^ ffl Hard t'rozpn. 8 ■;: i T " -36° -38°. 5 -38°. 5 -44° o ^ Hard fro^.en. 8 30 -VP o 3 -83°. 5 -34°. 5 -38° -37°. 5 1 -42° Hard frozen. 9 50 -3.>° -80° -33°. 7 -36° -35°. 5 -40° -41° Hard frozen. 10 10 -33°. 5 « -77° -32° -34°. 25 -34° 1 -38° -39° Tieldius a little. 10 25 -32° -90° -73°. 5 -30° -33° -33° -36° -37° Semi -tiuid, half of it. 10 45 -30O -86° -72° -29° -31°. 75 -31° -35° -36° Nearlv fluid; some still solid. 11 1 February, 1865.] The Freezing- Poifit of Mercury. 147 These experiments still further confirmed his uncertainty as to the true freezing-point of mercury, and he was at a loss to know how to coiTect his thermometer-register. On the following day he continued his experiments with frozen mercury, the lowest temperature during the night having been — 39° ; and at 7 a m. his thermometers standing thus: - 3(3°, - 90°, - 72°, - 34°, - 36°, - 36°, - 40°, - 42°. An attempt to mold mercury into a bullet did not meet with success. The temperature of the freezing mass now differed from what had appeared on the previous day, and he began to question whether its repeated freezing does not affect the case, or whether the discrepancies noted had not arisen from some lack of watchfulness needed to prevent the communicating of heat to the thermometers from his own person.* He says: ''Why should I not be in doubt about the freezing-point of mercury when masses freeze and little rain-drops of the same metal from the same jar remain fluid ? Admitting that mercury freezes, by a * These notes of Hall's experiments may be compared with the following, to be found in the " Results derived from the Arctic Expedition, 1875-'76" (Pariiameutary Paper C, 2176). Captain Nares says, on p. 107 : "The spirit and mercury thermometers were fixed alongside one another in the same screen, and, being read o^ every hour during the winter, were found to agree very well together until the temperature fell to about — 44°, when, on the temperature reaching a certain point be- tween —45° and — 46°.5, the mercury fell suddenly to a point in the tube Avhich would be about equal to — 60° had the tube been graduated. "While in this state, the mercury could be easily tapped down to a lower point in the scale. It appeared to be very brittle— that is, as the end of it reached the narrow passage leading to the bull), small particles broke off and found their way through. The stream was not continuous. "When the thermometer was left ped and the joyous mother embraced her darling successful boy, then stooped and patted the seal as though it were a living pet. She next disengaged the dogs' harness from the drauglit-line, and started toward her Icoin-mong, dragging the seal after her, when the women, with their oodloos, hastened to meet her. It was a woman's race. Old OoTc-har-loo hobbled along as fast as she could, but was left far behind, and, therefore, she 172 Innuit Customs. [May, ises. kept c'lyintj out iu Ler native vernacular for her competitors not to ^o too fast. Though this old petulant creature's commands are usually obeyed, they were not regarded this time, for the race proved a hot one, though the surroundings were nothing but heavy ice, hard snow, and very cold air. As fast as the women came up to the seal which the mother was dragging, they fell upon it and slashed away right and left with their ood-loos, till the poor defunct was completely haggled into as many pieces as there were hagglers.* Old Oolc-bar-loo, having arrived late, only got a small portion of the seal — the liver, heart, and lights. Too-koo-li-too in the contest succeeded iu gettuig a hind quarter, consisting of meat, blubber, skin, and Hipper. Some women got more and others less, though they left what their customs required — the head, neck, fore flippers, and some of theblubber and meat, — for embellishing the ujloo where the youthful victor resides. What remained was dragged to the igloo by the joyous mother, and thus ended the public celebration. Tlie first seal caught in open water and the first one taken by watching over an ice-hole are occasions for like demonstrations of joy, in which all usually share, except those who have been afflicted by death in their families during the year. The tracks of the reindeer were now frequently seen. Ebierbing failed in securing some bucks through his snow-blindness ; in a few days, liowever, he was well, and, with his usual skill, caught two seals, of which he gave pieces to the difi^erent families and piled up the rest on the floor of Hall's kotn-mong, making it look like a slaughter-house. On the 12th, (.ne of Ar-moii's wives, who had given birth to a child r»n tlie 5th, was now permitted by the Innuit customs to come again from lier separate ifjloo into the family hut ; not, however, by the common passage-way, but, at the decision of Old Mother Ook-har- ' Hall does not give the dimensioDB of the seals captured. It may be of interest to note the meaaurements given hy Captain Lyon in his narrative of a voyage to the same region. The num- ber of seals daily seen by his officers was large, and their boldness made them an easy prey. Four were killed one evening, two of which (the J'hoca Barbaia, or bearded seal,) weighed from eight to nine hundn-dweiglit. The length of one irom nose to insertion of the tail was 8 feet ; the length of Ihe fore llippc;r, 10 inclies; of liind ilipper, 1 foot ^ inches ; the circumference of the belly was 7 feet; the circumference of the head behind the ears, 2 feet T) inches; the circumference of the nose, ) ffiot 1 inches. May, 1865.1 A Sledge Trip. 173 ho, by an opening cut for the purpose through the snow-wall. She was now to keep a little skin-hag hung up near her into which she must put a little of her food at each meal, having first put it up to her mouth. This is called la^dng up food for the infant, although none is given to it. For a year from the birth, the mother must eat neither anything raw nor that which has been wounded in the heart. Hall notes that a birth occurring on a journey occasions no delay ; the In- nuits of this locality differing as to this in a marked degree from those further east. The mother is almost as well as ever an hour after the birth. The new-comer nestles at its birth in its took-too bed (its mother's hood), as naked as when born, and it usuall}^ remains without clothing for at least two years. It now became very desirable to go down the coast 32 miles southward and bring up the four whale-boats which belonged to Hall and three of the natives, and the stores of the expedition with the medicine-chest and other deposits, in order that an advance might soon be made toward Repulse Ray. A well-known disease, which threatened to sweep off very many of their dogs, having already de- stroyed several, this journey became the more urgent. Accompanied by Ebierbing and five others, with three sledges and twenty dogs, on the 15th, Hall crossed the Wager, and, after tracking a bear, ascended the high land to examine the condition of the bay. Two miles down, a heavy black cloud hanging over it extended from shore to shore, showing much ice drifting out with the swift ebb-tide. The journey occupied the traveling hours from seven in the morn- ing of the 13th to 10 a. m. of the following day, some time having been given, however, to the hunt of foolc-too. It had become so light at midniirht that no stars were visible. Hall feasted in the igloo on 174 The Kom-mongs Falling in. [May, ises. the head and brains of a deer ; his companions delighted themselves with the worms found under the skin. A severe gale sm*prising the party after they had lashed their boats on the sleds to return, they halted, and Hall cooked a large quantity of deer-meat and treated the company to so much hot punch that they began to utter confused sen- tences, and retired at 8 p. m. On the 16th, Ou-e-la w^ith mucli tact pushed forward the heavily- loaded sleds, and, although he lost several dogs, at last brought up the boats on the ice of the Wager, launched them for a sail of two hours on its open water, and then again sledded them over to their latest encampment, reaching it at midnight of the 18th. On their route they had visited Ar-lig-ouk-lig, a place which has the appearance, on approaching it from the north or west, of an inverted whale-boat. A ''tablet" was found here, 50 feet in height and 25 feet in w^idth. The place is considered sacred by the Innuits, who made at this time a deposit there, with an address and a solemn farewell. In a crevice 5J feet from the ice a lead ball was now placed, marked "Hall, 1865." On the crest of a hill, some distance further on, were found six circles of stones which Ou-e-la said were the remains of the tii-piks of Innuits long since dead ; and that here they made their stopping-place when passing from Noo-wook to Oo-koo-ish-ee-lik. Tlie rapid advance of the warm season again required a change c*^ residence. The kom-mongs, or half-snow houses, w^ere untenantable ]jy the snow-drippings. When broken down, their remains, mixed up with musses of blubber, broken and uncouth native utensils, and filth, presented a stroller contrast to the beautiful arched and solid domes as described by Hall in the previous autumn.* • Ca])tnin Lyou, in his journal kopt during Parry's second voyage, 1821-'23, says of a like BCfiii- : " I h;wl ntveral times in niy rambles through the world seen huts which I imagined could Jane, 1865.] Tlw Wami SettsoH Approacliing. 175 Nu-ker-ziioo^ on leaving his igloo, took out, according to custom, all his skulls and bones to the ice some distance off. Kljierbing was snow-bhnd. He had come in from his deer-hunt looking like a pillar of snow and his dogs like small snow-drifts. He had found Ar-mou's wife wandering about in the snow, for she had lost the way to her own tu-pik, and could not as yet enter any other. Despite of his woolen mittens, Hall's own fingers now tingled more with cold than they had done during the whole winter, and the change brought to him a sick- ness ; but, like a number of attacks experienced since his first landing, this was but temporary. He was again cheered by letters from Cap- tain Chapel, brought by two natives who had left the ships on tlie lOtli of April. The first five days in June were in marked contrast with the end of May. The glowing sunsets, which mirrored themselves in the water of tlie Wager, closed upon hours favorable for observations and for hunting. Hall's boat, the Sylvia, with its stores, was brought across from the south side of the river. By ascertaining with his sex- tant that the ice-foot on the other side, 20 feet in height, subtended an angle of 5', he determined the breadth of the Wager to be two and a half miles. The tu-piks had been again set up on an island called Noo-oot-lik, which forms one of the chain lying close along shore of the river. On this many circles and stone monuments were found. On the 5th, tak- not be equaled iu wretcliedness of appearance ; but I was yet to learn that of all luiscrablo places on earth a snow village recently deserted is the most gloomy. The huts, -when viewed from without, glisten beneath the rays of a spring sun with a brilliancy which dazzles and pains the eye ; but the contrast within is therefore the more striking. The roofs melted into icicles and coated with smoke ; arches broken and falling from decay ; the snow-seats, floors, and parti- tions covered with every kind of filth and rubbish — bones, broken utensils, and scraps of skins — form altogether the most deplorable picture, while the general air of misery is tenfold aug- mented by the strong glare of light which shoots through the hole once occupied by a window." 176 Nearing the Bay. [June, ises. ing down the tents, transferring everything to the boats, and rigidly guarding the i)rovisions from the voracious dogs, the company moved forward under sail, passing through a narrow channel of one and a half miles in width, and for some hours resting on a bight, found to be entirely free from ice. The opposite southern shore was hugged by an ice-stream sweeping up and down with the tide. The next resting- place was on an old ice-floe about one mile from land, full of fissures and large bergy pieces, on attempting to round which both Hall's and Ar-mous boats struck hard, but without serious injury. Hall's own boat, the Sylvia, had been twice nearly destroyed — once by his pilot and wife having both fallen asleep while he himself was napping. Ar-mous equipment was enlivened by the birth of a litter of puppies. While crossing a break in the floe they saw a remarkable stone, called by the Innuits Ye-ar-yu-Uk, 30 feet in perpendicular height, and stand- ing alone about a mile from the coast. Ou-e-la said it could not be ascended. On the 8th, a gale, with drifting snow, forced them to seek the shelter of a floe ; but as it was soon broken up, a more secure refuge was hastily sought under the lee of a small island. To Hall's dismay, he found that his Ward chronometer, which he had sacredly guarded Irom all jars, had been unwound. Egger's he had wound up. Ward was "dead." ( )ii tlio loth, jjulling at the oars for a half hour and then getting under sail, tlie}' made four knots an hour, and at 2 p. m. saw the bold and snow-capped mountains of the north side of Sedla (Southampton Island.) Nu-hpr-zhoo\s whale-boat, loaded with men, women, children, dogs, and all maimer of truck — his sled across the bow — moved lazily along under mainsail and jib. While Shoo-she-ark-nook^s son was steer- Jaa«, 1865.1 Encampment on Bepulse Bay. 177 INNCIT IVORY COMB. INNllT BONK COMB. ing, his father was searching the boy's head for Jcoo-mils for liis supper. Upon the floe, Ar-goo-moo-too-Uk, who, with his faniily, had come up by land, was discovered not far off, urging forward liis dogs. When the tide turned. Hall's party had hard work at the oars, but at midnight of the 10th they made their first landing on the ice of Repulse Bay. A stream of heavy ice threatened to crush the boat, but by great exertions it was hauled up on the floe, which almost immediately broke up. After repeated like severe experiences, the twenty-first encampment was made on the shores of the bay at midnight of the 13th, in lat. 66"" 15' N., long. 85° 16' W. Hall thought there was a history in this one day. But this bay, from which he was at some future time to set out for King William's Land, had now been reached. Disheartening it was that the season of that year was too far advanced for sledging, and that for the rest of the month he was to make here his home. On the 19th he crossed Hurd's channel from a landing on the island near Cape Frigid. Ou-e-la spoke of a party of Iwillik Innuits, including ^r-^oo-a, SJwo-she-ark-nook, ?ind See-gar (Ou-e-la'' s iather), who, while out walrusing in these waters, were carried off on a broken floe and landed on Sedla. By watching the first opportunity they got upon another floe, on which they were carried by the tide to Iwillik arriving there in a perishing condition, after eating all their dogs and suffering from extreme cold S. Ex. 27- -12 178 Game Flentifid. iju«c, ises. AVliilo Hall was on Southampton Island lie took many observa- tions for the determination of the coast line ; he returned ^vith his party to his twenty-first encampment at 8 p. ni. of the 22d. The hitter l)art of the month gave him the opportunity of writing up the journals which he designed to send to the United States by the first whalers tliat shoukl appear in the bay. He took his share in the frequent hunts opened up by the season. Game had steadily increased from the beginning of the month. On their sail from the Wager it had been constantly in sight, giving them a number of deer, fourteen partridges, and an ooJc-gooJc shot from Oi(-e-Ia\s boat; in the middle of the month, when Ar-too-a, See-gar^ and Ar-goo-moo-too-Uk, with their three sledges, joined the saihng party on the floe, they reported eleven deer killed on their route; and during the last two weeks of the month, the whole party were in the liigliest spu'its from the very large number of deer, seals, and rabbits that were taken. The young deer were found to have their new horns quite large. The rabbits had now already heralded the approach of sum- mer by changing their white fur for coats of a light brown or slaty liue. As early as the 16th, the first flowers, (the purple saxifrages,) had been seen growing abundantly in patches on the plains. Ou-e-la's hunting was again successful by his great skill in entic- ing and securing his prizes. Approaching the deer, he worked himself along so steakhily from rock to rock as to escape the animal's closest watcli, and, akhough the crows were noisily afii'ighting the herd, he quickly killed several. Skinning one in seven minutes, he left the meat for one of his wives to bring in ; and approaching a fawn, he art- fully uttered sounds so successfully imitating its doe, that it ran toward him, ^nviiig Hall the <>i)portunity of shooting it and of receiving con- ^ BOAT JOURNEYS IN 1865 o June, 1865.] IlcfracUon. 1 70 gratulations on his return to the tupiJiS. With the assistance of Ebier- bing-'s Hke tact, Hall wounded a deer, whicli he endeavored to drive or lead in toward his tent; but when the strap of the marine glass was fastened around its head, the untamed animal reared, kicked, danced, butted, and cut such wild capers that, witliin a quarter of a mile of home, they were compelled to knock it on the head. Ebierbing, on a visit with some others to Oog-la-ri-your Island, caught twenty-six seals on the same day. Ou-e-la brought in, besides three deer, several pin- tail ducks, with their eggs which were of a greenish cast, but smaller than those of the eider; — of the size of hen-eggs only. On the afternoon of the 26th, from the top of a little hill, Hall observed a remarkable instance of refraction. The mountains of Southampton Island, which are of no great height and their slopes gentle, appeared to be very high and precipitous ; an irregular chain was converted into a huge plateau. A descent of even 5 feet from his position made the mountains appear nearly natural; one of 10 feet entirely so. In his excursions he met with two specimens only of iron ore resting on primitive rock. On the 1st day of July he moved a short distance to the Island of Oog-la-ri-your, where the larger number of his Innuit friends had already encamped for more conveniently hunting the seal. On remov- ing their tupihs, the blubber which had been saved was stored away in seal-skin ''drugs^^^ and deposited in a cache for winter use. When making these bags they took off the skin from the animal unbroken except by a small opening about the head, and when this cut was made, a knife was thrust in longitudinally and used freely until the blubber was completely separated from the skin; the fore flipper was jointed. 180 Too-koo-U-too III. [juiy, ises. Tlie seal was then worked out by the hole made at the head. If any small rent had been accidentally made, it was carefully sewed up before tilling. Just before their removal to Oog-la-ri-your, the natives had been suffering from very severe colds and pains in the chest ; some had entirely lost their voices. Hall's medicines had been in frequent requisition, particularly for the relief of Skoo-sJie-ark-nook, now saved a second time from dying; but he believed that the improvement in their habits of living which he had induced the natives to make, had yet more to do with his success as a practitioner. His own health was again gen- erally good. On the top of this island of Ooglariyour were the remains of the merry Ivit-clmk of Dr. Rae's party, and those of his wife. Ou-e-Ja told Hall that at one time very many Innuits lived there, but nearly all had died off. He was detained at this twenty-second encampment, lat. 66° 19', long. 85° 23', throughout the whole month and until the 7th of August, by the severe illness of Too-koo-li-too from an attack of pneumonia. His notes on one of the days of her illness are: "Her symptoms are of the most serious character. She raises blood direct from her lungs. I feel that I have neglected to teach these children of the North their religious duties. Indeed, I feel that I need myself a teacher, and I am brought to know that I need a new heart. O, may I learn from the glorious Bible my duty, and by the help of God per- form it." Ho much interested her by reading from the scripture his- t<»ry, especially that of Joseph, which story she in turn went over again to her husl)aiid. Hannah was still under the influence of super- stition. It nquiicd ;i long and patient reasoning to convince her when sick that she ((.iild eat anything which Ou-e-la brought in, for the juir, 1863.J Mode of CuUimj up the Ook-f/ook. 181 natives had told her something- was wrong at his birtli. She was at times persuaded to drink the sonp out of which Hall was accustomed to eat some of OH-e-ki's toolc-too meat. The natives were industriously occupied in boat and sledge jour- neys, securing a large amount of game for their subsistence through the coming winter. By the close of the month, the footing up showed twelve seals, nine ooJc-gooks, thirty-seven deer, and a bear, besides four ducks and thirty-eight eggs. Hall's advice secured this increase, as well as the preservation of the well-dried meat in drugs of oil, in which it would keep sweet and fresh and already " buttered." He witnessed the mode of cutting up ook-gook and preparing from its skin the lines for securing the walrus, as well as for sledge tracings and lashings. From an ook-gook 9 feet in length the skin was cut into strips, and then stretched by block and tackle between the rocks. When suffi- ciently dried, the strips were made soft and pliable by rubbing and chewing. The land of civilization, he says, has nothing equaling these lines in strength and endurance of wear and tear. In the divis- ion made in cutting up the animal, a woman received an equal share with each of the men. The ice on the coast still remaining hunmiock}^ it was very difficult to get a heavy ook-gook u])on the island ; yet, if the carcass was insufficiently covered with snow, ice, or deer-skins, the burning rays of the sun in a few moments destroyed the skin ; or if the bear made its ready visit, it struck its huge claws through the tough coat, completely riddling it and tearing out the meat and blubber. On the 22d, Hall visited the whaler Black Eagle, on board of which he had an opportunity of comparing and rating his chronome- ters. The first whaler of the season had been sighted on the loth by 182 Wlialers in Sight. [jniy, ises. Qn-c-Ja, wlio had instantly harnessed up his dogs and hastened off to inform Ilall. On Nu-lier-zlwd's coming- in to confirm the report, he was directed to bring the longest pole he could find to the top of the island and fasten on it one of the American flags as a signal. At thirty minutes past midnight, with some little difficulty on account of the fog, the vessel was descried a little to the westward of Cape Frigid. Tlie sight was sufficiently exciting and joyous to Hall to keep all sleep from him. He sent Ou-e-la to occupy his own took-too bed, while he ^^■ent again and again to the crest of the island to watch the vessel and the movements of the ice ; and he was very soon able to make out a second visitor traversing the Welcome from east to west, and then returning on the opposite tack. He ho2:)ed to find that these were the Antelope and the schooner Helen F., which had been winter- ing at Depot Island and Marble Island ; for he remembered that Cap- tain Chapel -had advised him that these vessels, as soon as released fr( iin the ice, would cruise for whales in Repulse Bay. He was par- ticularly anxious to discover some lead in the pack through which the ►Sylvia might be pulled by the strong arms of the Innuits to the ships, as he expected they would have on board a team of dogs for him, the captains having promised to bring all the dogs, which would be of no further use to them after the spring whaling was finished. They had been chiefiy useful in sledging the blubber over the floe which lay between the ships and the 0})en water. From any atteni})t to go out to his visitors when first sighted he had Ijccn entirely held back by a storm breaking over the island. In describing tliis, he says : ^'csterday iii(>rnin«f, the sky was overcast and gloomy, the weather looking thrcali-iiiiig as if Ji stonii would soon bo n])on us; and, besides, at 10.30 a. in. of July, IS65.] The Storm. 183 the 14tb, a thick log-, the first of the kind that 1 remember has occurred this season, commenced rising over the open water southward, and by 11 a. m. it was driven here by a southeast wind, enveloping tlie ishmd in it. The succeeding monnng, the fog was again over the oi)en Avater and over tlie ice of TJei)u]se r>ay, the wind still southeast and south-southeast. From the morning of the 13th tlie barometer began to fall, standing then 30 ^^^ inches; it gradually continued fall- ing to Saturday morning, the 16th, from which time to evening it dropped down three-tenths of an inch. In connection with all this, I may mention what some might consider a trifle ; nevertheless it shall have a place here. A small i)ool or reservoir of fresh water is close by the tupih, mostly on solid rock, but one side of it consists of moss and grass growing over cobblestones. Now, this pool rises and falls quite as regularly as the tide, though only about one-lialf as often. During the night the water of this reservoir falls, and fi'om morning to evening- it rises. The rise and fall seems to be quite uniform in height one day after another. Last night this water was nearly exhausted. Indeed, when I saw it just before the thunder-storm I was greatly surprised to find it so. This with other indications told unmistakably that something unusual was about to transpire in nature's elements. At 2.30 a. m. the tirst thunder-clap that I have ever heard in the northern regions occurred, the same being preceded by sharp liglitning. A little while after, loud thunder pealed forth here, there, everywhere around Eepulse Bay, especially away in the direction of Gibson's Cove, the extreme northwestern part of Eepulse Bay, where were such piles of heavy black clouds — Heaven's electric battery — and such a continuous roar of thunder therefrom that I could not help thinking of the Almighty hand which holds the elements. The storm ended at 4.20 a. m. Ar-mou told Hall he had seen ou-mer, (lightning,) twice at Ig- loo-lik. His people never knew it to kill an Innuit. To-koo-li-too said in her country it struck red dogs ; so they always killed such when puppies. The old woman E-vit-shung gave a specimen of her treatment of her own dogs, which was amusing though severe. She found them one day asleep when tied up to the rocks, as was often neces- sary to prevent their cutting with their teeth into the oil-drugs and meat ; a valuable drug had just been almost entirely ruined. This, 184 Stoning the Dogs. ijuiy, ises. however, was not the cause oi E-vit-skimg^s, fearful pounding. Wlien she arrived where some of the dogs were constantly kept fast to the rocks b}' long tliongs, she stopped and commenced pelting one of the largest with stones. Every time she made a throw, she spoke to the dog as tliough he could comprehend Innuit speech. What she did say amounted simply to this : " Here you are, old dog, and all the rest of you, sleeping aud basking in the hot sun's rays all day, and at night wide awake, howling, barking, and crying, keeping me and all others about from getting any quiet sleep; and now, old fel- low, I am giving you tiiese stones for pay. As for the rest of you brutes, I will give you some another time." Her throws were of some account so far as this goes. She hit every time, and made the dog cry wofidly. Each time she picked uj) a stone and licld it in her hand, the dog watched her closely. Several false-throw niotit)ns were tirst made by the old woman, and when the dog ceased dodging, out would lly the huge stone from her hand, hitting him on the head, nose, or other parts of the body. My laughing so heartily was from the business-like manner in whirli tlie old lady addressed the dog during the severe castigation she was administering to it. If JE-vit-shioig can wMyt Innuit dogs a long time after they have done their evil work and make them understand just what their chas- tisement is for, then either she has a supernatural power, or the Innuit dogs are intelligent iM-ings. moral agents, so to call tliem. The old woman had been doing better service in the early part oftlu^ day by bringing word to Hall of the blowing of a whale, which slie and her companion in the tujjik had heard. Hall .says that the dogs are both a blessing and a curse; — almost constantly in mischief, opening seal-blubber drugs, howling all night, and ofttimcs stealing into tents and abstracting meat, eating harness and walrus-lines. There is no end to the damage these brutes are all the time surreptitiously doing. P,ut, on the other hand, in winter which iiiclii«l<- about thi-('(-fourtlis of the year, they are of such value as (bauglit animals, and as bear, musk-ox, and seal-dogs, that, with all their August, ISti.'S. The KfulKrance of fhr Eskimo Don. 185 depredations, on no consideration could the Innnits do without them. The severity with which they treat these friends has been more than once noted. Ar-mou and Ou-c-Ja beat several of them to dentli with an oar, and at one time Avitli a hatcliet. Their tenacitv of life a]){)ears KSKIMO DOG. [From a photojirapli of Captain Cliapel's. ] plainly in the midst of their sufferings when drawing such heavy loads while half famished, and in their endurance of unmerciful poundings. A case is cited, too, in which an animal pierced with several rifle- balls recovered his full strengtli, although sick when sliot. On the 6tli of this month, scarcely any ice was to be seen in ]\Iid- dleton's Frozen Strait, the Welcome, or Repulse Bay. Hall thought 186 Death of Shoo-she-arJc-nook [Angnst, ises. the term Frozen Strait a misnomer, being informed that it is never entirely closed. Refraction was much less marked than any which he had observed for many weeks past. The nights growing dark, he could no longer write up his notes in the tupiJc at midnight. Mosquitoes, which had lirst showed themselves July 10, were now filling the air; the number caught in the fresh paint which Nu-ker-zJioo had put upon his boat was beyond computation. The water-supply was renewed from a pool on the surface of an ice-floe near the island. The party who procured this could have secured a whale lying a little distance off, with his back out of the water, if their weapons had been at hand. Two other whales were seen by others the same day. Oii-e-la, who had made an encampment about five miles to the north, for better salmon fishing, was espied by Ar-moii coming down under sail, and on landing proceeded directly to Hall's tupik to inform him of the death of his much-beloved brother, SJioo-sJie-ark-nook. He received Hall's warmest sympathy, which he well knew he had reason to expect from the experience of a visit during a late serious accident iu his fiimily. His eldest son had fractured his skull by a fall upon the rocks among the hummocks, and although Ou-e-la had healed the Iracture by a})plying the powerful suction of his mouth to bring the j)ieces together, he came to his old friend to tell him of the accident and its effect upon his wife in her peculiar situation. He now brought sad news. "Strange customs have these Innuits. Neither Ou-e-la nor his l>rother Ar-too-d n ill now smoke, though they both are great smokers. They retain uixm their heads the usual coverino: from morniu": till ni;:lit. This covering at any other time, and especially when entering a tuj)il:, is thrown back, leaving tlie head bare. To this head-covering Augiiiit, 1865.] Encampment on IlavUand Bay. 187 the skin and feathers of a iKe-tu-Jarli's liead were fastened, and a feather of the same water-fowl to each arm, just above the elbow. Oii-e-Ia and eacli of the male relatives of Shoo-slie-ark-nook have a belt around the waist. Then, besides, they constantly wear mittens. On offering Ou-e-la some coffee, bread, and venison, he declined taking any, because he must have food cooked for himself separate from others during the term of mourning." On the 7th, Hall with his party removed to the west side of Havi- land Bay, making the passage in a rain-storm in just five hours — 2 J to 8 knots per hour — on a northwest course across the mouth of the bay. The storm had begun from the southeast on the night previous to their setting out from the twenty-second encampment; but the weather clear- ing during the day, the party had embarked on four boats; the Sylvia and the Lady Franklin, with the boats of Ou-e-la and Nu-ker-^Jioo. All were well laden with drugs of seal-blubber, sledges, dogs, men, women, and children, and the usual Tnnuit chattels. A breeze from the north- east favored them on a part of the voyage, but torrents of rain fell, and the greatest care was taken by all the party of Too-koo- li-too, who had been so long an invalid. The landing was made with ease at low tide, but to find a suitable place for the tiqnks was diffi- cult, as the rocks were everywhere dished, had pools in every excava- tion, and were sending down streams of water in every direction. The Innuits who had preceded Hall in removing from Oo-glari-your Island occupying the only available dry spot, he was obliged to take the most convenient one above high-water mark. At midnight the tujnics were completed, and the party comfortably housed at this new encampment, lat. GQ° 31' N., long. 85° 50' W. 188 A Wo))uui An ge-ho Questioning ^"Sidney.'''' lAuguM, ises. Ill tlie interval of a clear sky on their journey, two vessels bad been again sigbted at a distance to tbe southward; but indistinctly throuii'h the mist. Not even their masts would have been above the horizon, if refraction had not brought them up and their duplicates also; each vessel, from the water-line about it to the truck being matched bv its complete image inverted, hulk to hulk, and all sus- pended in the clouds above the sea horizon. The day following, the two ships, the Black Eagle and the Ansel Gibbs, again appeared, beating up Repulse Bay. They anchored near an island to the south- west. Ebierbing and Ou-e-la had volunteered at a late hour of the night previous to go out to these ships in the offing. The wind fresh- ening to a gale, Ou-e-la, more cautious than Ebierbing, soon returned; but the latter, after causing Hall much anxiety for many hours, still remained out of sight. As he had with him in the Sylvia Nu-l'cv- zlioo, Oung-oo-choo, and Tuk-too, their old mother, E-vit-shmuj who felt that all her earthly treasures were in danger, invested herself with the nlHce of an an-ge-ho ; and after having by the dawn of day satisfied herself by tlie answers of " Sidney," that although the Sylvia could not reach tlie sliijis, it would come back safe, she had relieved the minds of the other Innuits. In her communing with the spirit, she had Ijeen throwing her left hand continually around, giving a twisting motion to tlie thong which she had tied to a heavy stone, and " Sidney's" answers had come to her by his increasing or diminishing tin- wciglit of this stone. AYhen the party returned, they reported that tlicy had iiindc a landing until th(^ storm subsided, and having their lirc-arnis with thciii had made a successful fooJc-foo hunt. i>osited upon each mass of ice when separate, and eventually brought into the middle of a large floe by the process detailed above. This explanation, how- ever, goes but a little way toward clearing up the difficult^" ; for, besides the necessity of supposing, in this case, that each mass of ice has in its turn been l)rought into close contact with the shore, we have never seen an instance in any bay or harbor where ice so brought, even under the most favorable circum- stances, has received any such deposit. In whatever manner it may be eftected, it is certain tliat these substances act an essential part in the dissolution of the ice, as even the smallest stone or collection of sand may always be observed to have formed a pool of water around it in consequence of the radiation of heat from its surface." It will be seen nearly at the commencement of these remarks of Parry, that he says: "The quantity in which these substances have occurred was really sur- l)rising, and puzzled us extremely to account for the manner in which they found llieir way upon the floes." The same subject has puzzled many a man, but I am rniiiidciii the fact is as follows: The stones, sand, shells, and weeds are not deposited upon the surface of the ice; they simply are seen or appear there, as the ice e\aporates or wastes away, which it eventually does more rapidly, of course, as warm weather comes on. These stones and other substances are picked u\i from tlic l»ottoiii of shallow waters by the ice resting awhile upon them and brroiiiin;,' (M'liiciilcd to them by the fingers of King Cold during low tide; and when tlie liood makes, u]> goes ice with its ponderous i)i(;kings. But, to begin at Bocks and Debris on the Ice. 195 the beginning, cold weather comes on ; the waters become cokl, and, growing colder as winter advances, ice forms; the tides all the time never forgetting their regu- lar order of flood and ebb. As the spring-tides come on, during their ebb, in many shallow i)arts of Hudson's Bay, sheets of ice rest ni)on rocks, stones, shells, and weeds. These sheets of ice, as they lie, send down showers upon th(^ idready moist bottom, all of which conglaciate at once into a solid mass by the piercing, pinching cold of the north. Kocks and stones, shells and weed, sheets of ice, and what was txickling water become one solid body. The tide now floods and lifts the floe, having on its nether surface a ponderous load of earthy matter. Before another ebb, King Cold has succeeded in adding several inches of ice under- neath the structure of rocks, stones, land, shells, and weeds, which are now com- pletely enveloped in crystal. Ebb and flood succeed each other, and as often add a stone or other foreign matter, and then another stratum of ice to the floe or smaller pieces of ice that during certain intervals are afloat or aground. I will now proceed to give some proof of all this I have stated. Three winters I have spent in the northern regions, two of them in the locality of Frobisher Bay. Many times have I seen in the springs succeeding these winters, stones, sand, shells, and weeds on the top of bay-ice, or such ice as had been formed on shallow waters. As warm weather advanced and the ice wasted away, more and more of these substances would appear. My attention was more particularly directed to this subject during my search on my voyage of 18G0-'G2 for one of the relics of Frobisher in the Countess of Warwick's Sound, on the north side of Frobisher Bay. The natives had told me where one of their people had thrown an anvil, some five years before, from a rock by the bold shore of Oo-pung-ne-wing Island into the sea. They were quite sure I could find this relic on the disruption and drift- ing away of the ice in the summer, providing 1 would be at the above-named island at some low spring-tide. Corresponding to their advice, I visited the island in the summer of 1862, and at low tide the rock bottom all about the place indicated from whence the anvil had been thrown, was just above water; but no anvil could be found ; indeed, not a loose stone was thereabout. The shore-i(;e had licked up everything movable, not leaving even so valuable a relic as the one sought, three centuries old. The manner in which this relic was lost to the world any one can judge on reading what I have now written. The shore-ice having enveloped the anvil in its crystal walls during the winter season, on its being free from land in the succeeding summer, drifted away with what would have been to me a valuable treasure. Had that piece of shore-ice been seen by 196 Rocks and Debris on the Ice. some one at some particular time altoiward, -svliile it was wasting away, drifting and straggling about, no doubt but tbe anvil would have appeared as though deposited on it. I come now do^vn to the present time, to what can now be seen on and mar the shore of this island. The present spring-tides have opened a rich lieJd for study. They have by their wonderful action shown me how quickly they can transform the "thrice-ribbed ice" into dancing sparkling waters; how (luickly tht',^■ can tear away and destroy mountaiu barriers of ice, giving free waters for ships to sail in. These spring-tides have just been ripi)ing up huge masses of ice lining the shores, and such ice as the winter's cold formed over the shallow waters near to the island on its western side. Could Parry and others who weie puzzled extretnely to account for the manner in which stones, sand, shells, and weed found their way upon the Hoe, but have seen what I have wit- nessed this evening, they would no longer have had any question about the matter. There is one mass of ice lying within a couple of stone-throws of my tupU:^ which is some G feet in thickness and .50 by 100 feet square. The ebbing tide has left one corner of this resting on another j)iece equally thick, which lies directly flat on the rocky bottom that is now bare from low tide. The position of this piece of ice, with its corner thus resting on another piece, is on an incline, showing its top, sides, and bottom most favorably. The whole mass consists of strata of stones, rocks, and sand and ice, the strata running jjarallel with the top and bottom of this frozen mass. From the top of this piece, stones are peei-ing out. Near one end is a rock of 150 pounds weight, or more, nearly denuded of ice. As can be seen at the sides and ends, megular thicknesses of layers of stones and sand occur. The upper part of this ice is much freer of those substances than thr lower hall'. Comparatively, but few stones and small collections of sand are in the upper i)ortion, while the beds below consist of an astonishing quantity. Indeed, the bottom is a stratum of nothing but rocks, stone, and sand that are glue or three torn of earthy matter is frozen into that one piec(; of ice that 1 have just described. Hut thi.s piece of ice is only one of the many that are now to be seen lying around on the rocks left bare by the ebb-tide. Some have only a few ston<'s uj)on and in llieni. This feature is, however, plainly to be seen in nearly all, that the stones and ice are in strata. During the day much ice has Rocks and Debris on the Ice. \\)1 been drifting' along by this island, and every now and then pieces of ice bore npon their smface stones and rocks fully exposed. As the -waves lilted them np, rock- ing them to and fro, exposing one side or one end of each of these, strata of stones were to be seen. These masses of ice had been disengaged from a belt of hnm- mncky floe that was a part of the lixed ice during the past winter in Uaviland Bay. Uow these masses of ice charged with earthy matter get into the midst of a fixed floe overlying deep water is easily accounted for. A cold summer per- haps succeeds the winter, and before this ice is dissolved, another winter sets in and fastens it firmly in the midst of a new floe, or surrounds it with old hum- mocky ice; all of Avliich becomes cemented together by the advancing cold, freez- ing weather. * * # I must notice here what Parry says relative to the comparative times of the dissolution of the shore-ice and water rushing in torrents from the land in these northern regions : " It has been suggested that the floe may be held down by its firm cementation to the shore while the water from the land above it rushes in a torrent along its upper surface. This, however, is contrary to ex- l)erience, which shows that long before the streams on the land are sufficient to effect this, the ice next the shore is completely thawed and detached from the beach, and, therefore, at liberty to float in the natural way." If I understand Parry rightly he means this : that, from his experience, long before the snow^s on the land of this northern country melt — causing streams, some of which rush in torrents — the ice next the shore completely thaws and becomes detached from the beach. Now, my experience is directly the reverse of this ; that is to say, from what I have seen, long before the ice next the shore thaws and becomes detached from the beach, the snows on the land melt, causing streams — indeed, some, rivers — some of these streams and rivers rushing torrent-like down the mountain- sides and thence over the ice belting the shore, and over the ice covering the waters of many bays, coves, and inlets. At the present time, wherever I look, the land is almost completely denuded of snow, and has been so for weeks, while the shores of the mainland and of the islands are in many places still belted with the " ice-foot," as Dr. Kane termed the ice next the land. Until now, Eepulse Bay has been covered over, mostly with its fixed ice of last winter's formation, and this while many of the rushing torrents have long since dried up, their source— the melting snows— having disappeared. Wherever these streams rim for a considerable time over the fixed floes, they cut their way — 198 Itocks and Debris on the Ice. a canal — coiniiletcly throu^L. Often in passing over the ice Lave I been checked in my course from meeting these winding, river-like channels in the ice, being un- able to leap them, and obliged to make to the mainland that 1 miglit renew my course again. It is tndy a wonder to me that Parry's experience was such as he has recorded. From what I have just written, no one will suppose that I wish to make torrents and more quiet streams from the land the means by which stones, sand, and shells, and weeds get upon or into the ice-floe, though I may say that occasionally such is the fact. HAPTER yiT. A SECOND WINTER LIFE— PREPARATIONS FOR THE FIRST SLEDGE JOURNEY TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND. SEPTEMBER, 1!!65, TO APRIL, J8G6. CHAPTER VII. Plans for a sledge journey ln the spring — Separation from the Innxhts— Ebiep^ing, TOO-KOO-LI-TOO, AND AR-MOU'S FAMILY REMAIN WITH HaXL — HiS INTEREST IN THE DEER- HUNTS — Danger to life experienced— An aurora described by Hall as seen from HIS BED on the ROCKS — LaRGE NUMBER OF DEER SLAIN — HaLL'S REINDEER DEPOSITS — Severe gale — Too-koo-li-too's remembrance of the Brooklyn ladies wishing her TO dress like civilized people — Exposures on visiting the deposits — Failure to catch salmon — Hall's daily subsistence — He prepares skin garjients— Removal to Now-YARN — News of the drowning of Ar-too-a — Feasts and amusements at Now- YARN — Visit to Oo-gla-ri-your Islant) — Troubles with the natives — Reconcilia- tion AND encouragements — TEMPERATURE OF THE WINTER MONTHS — FREQUENT AU- RORAS— Readiness for a forward move to King William's Land. The experience of the first Arctic year has been detailed, and its journals have given an insight into the daily life to which one was necessarily subjected who looked forward to the accomplishment of a '' mission" through assistance furnished by the Eskimos. The details of a second winter life among the same people would not be profitably presented in the cases in which almost -identically like experiences were passed through. This chapter, therefore, will offer but the thread of Hall's occupations during this period, with a recital of such occur- rences as were new to him from his changed location, partial isolation from the larger number of his Innuit friends, and necessar}- self- dependence for subsistence and for a preparation to renew his advance •iOl 202 Hall Hunting the Deer. [September, ises. toward King William's Land. His ]jlans for the next year involved the securing of the continued friendship of the Innuits, and the stor- ing of sufficient provisions for a long sledge journey, as well as for maintaining life through the approaching winter. The larger part of the tribe now located themselves in places at snmc distance from liim ; at first, going off to the lakes above North Pole River to hunt, and, after their return, living nearly all the rest ot tlie season at the point named on the map (page 211) as Now-yarn Harbor. Between this and Fort Hope visits were at times exchanged, and, during the two mid-winter months Hall lived with the natives at Now-\arn. Ebierljing and Too-koo-li-too, from the first, remained close b}' him, and for the sake of the latter who expected to give birth to a child, Ar-mou's family by the consent of the chief, Ou-e-la, re- mained for some time at Fort Hope. For the same reason, chiefly, Hall himself did not accompany the party to the lakes. lie soon became deepl}' interested in the deer-hunts, making liiiiisclf a good marksman, and being rewarded with a large success. l)uring the month of September, and until the migrations of the deer ceased in the month following, liis notes are full of wearisome l»ursuits, made almost daily over the rough hills and the hummocks of tlic sea-ice riic record of one of these hunts is this: Leaving his hut with l*J)ierbiii;_'- at H a. m. of Sei)tember 10, at midday, when three miles lie lit li ut' tlieir li(»me, they first saw a band of seventeen deer one of which ihill succeeded in killing. Making a deposit of this, and traveliiiL; t\\. . miles further, they sighted two others which were rest- '"- "" 'li'' plain The hiiiit(M-s cantiousK' concealed themselves IkIuimI the idrks, and when the animals had come near to them, brows- wrptcmbcr, 1865. i Closc Sliootmg. 203 ing, Ebierbing crept across the plain, makinf^ it impossible for the deer to cross in front of a little lake near by without exposing them- selves to his clear aim. The hunters, however, found themselves in the embarrassing position that neither one could fire without endangering the life of the other. Just as Hall had taken aim, he remembered Ebierbing, dropped his rifle, and hid himself behind the rocks at the moment when Ebierbing's ball which had passed through the first deer, whizzed olose to his head. Seeing, however, that his com- ])anion had now, in turn, hid himself, he shot the second deer, giv- ing Ebierbing the pleasure of a possible experience like his own. Each felt that he had made a narrow escape. Securing three more from the next herd, they skinned their prizes, and, as the sun was now setting, determined to remain and cache them the next day. For their sleeping-place they built a wall of stones on the windward side of a bed of moss on which, after smoking, chatting, and supping on raw venison, the}" fell comfortably asleep, each having one of the deer-skins for his bed, another for his pillow, and a third for his coverlid. They awoke to find their cover- ings hard frozen, ice to the thickness of three-eighths of an inch having formed during the night on the pools of water near them ; but at an early hour they made their caches of the deer, loaded the packs of skins upon their backs, and continued the hunt throughout a second day, securing, however, but one more animal. Neither the fatigue of the journey nor the excitement through which Hall had passed prevented him from writing while on his rough bed: The evening glorious, the clear sky, the moon, the stars! and now, at 9^., the aurora grandly playing its fantastic tricks. Was ever man more blest with an 2()4 An Aurora Noted from a Hard Bed. [September, ises. opportunity for observing some of Nature's grand order of creation than I to-night, here on my back, with the heavens stretched out and moving, panorama-like, be- fore me ? O, the wondrous workings of the aurora I Their mysteries seem i>ast finding out. The more I see them, the less I know. The display to-night most gorgeous. At first, the low extended arch to the southward — its slow rising — tin- dancing beams flying to and fro from one end of the arch to the other — the arch multiplied into others in beautiful disorder — the prismatic fringe at the base of the rays. As the now several arches get higher and higher they become more and more lively. Now they shoot up to the zenith, and their motions become too quick for the eye to follow them. Now the ujiper heavens are filled with the aurora as though in battle ; sublime and inspiring. I cannot describe the scene ; I can simply behold, and praise God, the author of these glorious works. During the month of September ninety-thi-ee deer were deposited, and within the next month and the first week of November fifty more were secured ; in the latter part of September they were frequently seen in large numbers, and Hall estimated that as many as a thousand passed in one day. The Innuits at the lakes, who were not equally fortunate, said that the prevalence of the southerly winds had kept the deer lower down, near the seashore. A few were seen by Hall as late as the 27th of January ; these were, at the time, going northward. They did not again appear until the end of March, when the does that were ^^•ith young had begun their migration. Their rutting season had been in October, during which, frequently, they were more readily ca])tured. Tlie details of labor and exposure to which Hall subjected himself wlien depositing the carcasses of his slain animals are as interesting as those of the hunt. One record will suffice. It is largely condensed from his notes, throughout the fullness of which no items are found which AVMuld tempt one to suspect that the account is one of exagger- ated trials. 'Hicy boar on their face the simplicity of that truthfulness wliicli if iii;iy 1)(. June said, once for all, has been conceded on all sides October, 1865.] Severs Exposures 205 to have been a marked element in his character, and whicli liis stead- fast companion, Ebierbing, has uniformly claimed for him. On the 20th of October, at 8 a. m., in the midst of a gale with snow and flj'ing drift, the two w^ent out to make deposits of the deer which they had killed the day before. With rifles in hand, they crossed hill and valley to Hall's own favorite deer-pass, where he had been accustomed to watch for the animals behind his stone wall. The first labor was to recover here his double-barreled gun from a deep snow-drift, and this required of both, a laborious shoveling of twenty minutes. Following the ridge of high land from the deer-pass south toward Gibson's Cove, they came upon their five slain animals, the last one they had shot being a big buck. It had been left unskinned, and the legs only were frozen. The skin was taken off, and the car- cass disemboweled and cut into the three principal pieces, which were dragged a little way further to a stony spot, where the weight of a ton and a half of rock was piled upon them; the bristling antlers were left projecting above to mark the cache To find rock and stones for covering the other three animals, Hall climbed the highest part of the ridge, where, by heavy pounding, he and Ebierbing secured two and a half tons. When they had dragged two of the deer up this hill, a rest was made for lunch on some of the unfrozen legs and for a smoke; but to light their pipes a match w^as struck after many trials only, and by their crowding down into a deep snow-bank and bending their bodies and heads over for a roof against the storm. As they sat enjoy- ing their puffing, the sight and the noise around them were such as w^ould have struck terror and dismay into the heart of any one inex- perienced in Arctic life. The darkening clouds of sharp, cutting, blinding snow flying on the wdngs of the gale, the howling of the 206 HaJJ and Ehierhing again Successful. I October, 1863. Storm, and the cold, frowninf^-, icy rocks, although sheltering them for tlie moment, were enough. Hall said, to make one exclaim, " None hut devils should be doomed to such an unmerciful punishment." On returning to their third deer, they found that the foxes had dragged off the head and nearly cleaned off the meat. The paunches of all three were then buried within a skin in a snow-drift ; to be recovered when the gale ceased The first animal which they had killed and sledded u])on a skin some distance further on, was also cached with hard labor. The whole da^-'s work had been in the teeth of gale and drift. Entering the hut, on their return, each seemed to the other a pil- lar of snow^, until th6y had for a long hour pounded and threshed their na- tive dresses with their ar-roiv-tars. But they brought in with them a good store of food, for Ebierbing had carried on his back, two legs and five slabs of meat, beside much tallow, with e-ver-tu (sinew) for thread. Hall had on his shoulders, with his gun, a substantial saddle of meat. Their stores left outside had been also made ''safe in the midst of the storm from the jaws of the fox, the wolf, and the equally hungry crow." The gale continued unbroken for five successive days. Hall notes iliis as luiexampled in his experience as regards its constancy, force, and direction, of wliich he niadc^ entries in his meteorological November, 1865.] Refruction. 207 ivcord. Too-koo-li-too expressed a wish that the lady wlio told her at the Brooklyn fair in New York that Iiinuits ought to dress like ladies in the States, could herself take a minute's walk only at this time over the hill near by, when she would be very glad to change her fine hat and hoop-skirts for any one of an Innuit's rough dresses. The journals of November 29 and 30 have interesting notes of refraction and of a parhelion. The 29th was a gloriously fine day, although rather cold, the mean of four observations of Hall's ther- mometer No. 5 being 65°. 4 below freezing-point. From midday till evening the sky was cloudless and the air calm. At 10^' 12"^- 4P^''' mean time of Fort Hope, the lower limb of the sun was half a degree above the sea-horizon. The place of Hall's observation was on the crest of the hill back of his igloo, directly opposite Beacon Hill ; the igloo and the hill being on opposite sides of the small stream known as North Pole River. At sunrise and for a half hour later, the refraction south and east was very great ; for Southampton Island loomed up from ten to thirty minutes of arc above the sea-horizon. The island is never visible from the place of observation named, except by refraction ; and Hall had frequently looked in vain for it from elevated points in the neigh- borhood. Cape Frigid, the most northerly point of Southampton, lies in about lat. 6(y° N., long. 85° 25' W., by Parry's chart; and by the same chart, the junction of the river with the headwaters of Gibson's Cove is in lat. 66° 32' N., long. 86° 50' W., the last of which positions, however, Hall believed, involves an eiTor in the chart, of seven miles. The cape was forty-seven geographical miles distant, but the refraction was so great that Hall saw not only that point, but the coast on both 208 A Mock-Sun. rwoTcmbcr, ises. sides of the island far down southward. Nearly the whole entrance to Repulse Bay from Beach Point easterly, had land looming- up above the sea-horizon in a thousand fantastic and constantly-changing- forms. Before and at sunrise a zone of about five degrees in width from the horizon up was of resplendent colors, extending completely around the heavens ; that half of the circle which was opposite the sun being the more gorgeous. On the going down of the sun the glow- ing zone was again in view. Such a display- is not unusual in fine weather during the Arctic winter. At 1 1 a. m. of the 30th, he was on the top of Oven Hill, riewing the sun and a splendid parhelion 22 J degrees east of it. On account of the cloudiness of the heavens, there was no corresponding parhelion visi- ble on the opposite or west side of the sun. In fifteen minutes after the time given above, the sun became completely obscured by clouds ; but the parhelion continued shining almost as brightly as though it were the great luminary itself. Thinking to improve the occasion in determining the illusion to be a complete one, he hastened down to the ifjloo, called Ebierbing and Ar-mou, and requested them to point out to him where the sun was. They both pointed directly to the parhe- lion with the utmost confidence that it was the true sun; their very looks at him bespoke the unmistakable sentiment, "Any man that is not blind can see that there is the sun ! " Hall smiled, and then his " good native friends " scanned to the right and left of what they really thought to be the sun ; but their assurance remained the same. He tli<)i pointed 22 J degrees to the west of the phenomenon and told them that ill ih;it direction was the sun. "At this time it wanted only fifteen niiiiutcs (.f Ijciug apparent noon, when, of course, the sun would be due south of them. A moment's reflection on the part of Ebierbing and December, i8«5.i Faiiit' day tiic heather-fuel was with difficulty ignited, although the circumstances were the same as at other times; he did not under- January, 1866.] Httll ttfid Ebierhing Preparhifi Winter Garments. 213 stand either of these phenomena. His Innuit fricnids ('oiiijd.iiiu'd tliat in times of severe cold their fire-lamps were very dull. According to an early-formed purpose, he and Kbierbing li;id begun in November to prepare enough deer-skins for their riill w inter raiment. This work comprised the different operations of dr}ing, scraping, re-drying, and ro-scraping described in ('haptcr W . Too- koo-li-too, as a young mother, could not work on these. Ar-nioa and his wife had already prepared their furs. Hall found himself a green hand in even the first of these operations, which gave him four times the work of an Innuit. It took two skins to make him a single koo- lee-tang, or native coat or frock. For a double one for winter use four were used. To get sufficient warmth to dry the skins, they were hung around the " Conjurer," or small cook-stove, in the "snow ^ ^ kitchen"; and, as the heather could not be spared for ^J'■^. -'^ ^'| the drying only, a quantity of coffee was browned at the same time. Ebierbing was able to use his needle so deftl}^ that he made himself a pair of mit- Oi^j^^' tens of the skin from two deer-legs. dkku-skin glovks. Hall's clothing was now almost exclusively of furs. By the mid- dle of December he had doffed his undershirt, and in February, his drawers; and for the rest of the season he dressed wholly like his Innuit companions. His experience as to the influence of imagina- tion upon his sensibility to cold is noted in the fact that, on several occasions, when the Eskimos repeatedly expressed their surprise that he did not protect himself while making his observations outside of his if/loo, he seemed unconscious of the increased cold ; he had been 214 Bemoval to Now-yarv. (jonuary, isee. reoarding liis tlieiinoineter only, which, because of an air-bubble in the tube, did not indicate the true lower temperature of 'iC^. Having always taken great care of his Arctic library, even in his removals from place to place, he again devoted his spare hours to study. Finding his books, in the early part of the season, in great danger of being injured by the dampness, he attempted by himself to build for them a new igJoo ; but, while cutting the blocks a short dis- tance off, Ar-mou quickly cut out others from the spot on which the ifjJoo was to be built, and surprised him on his return by presenting him with a completed dome. Not long after. Hall succeeded in build- ing a cook-igloo, when Ar-mou and Ebierbing, skilled as they were in such work, showed their surprise that a koh-lu-na had built it so well; saying that they would never feel alarmed about him if caught out alone in the storms, for he could easily protect himself. The removal to Now-yarn had taken place on the 1st of Decem- licr, when Hall received a visit from Nu-her-zhoo, Ou-e-la, and his half- Ijiotlier, Oong-oo-cJwo, from their settlement at that place, about sixteen miles to the eastward. He was busy at his skin-dressing when Ou-e-la suddenly appeared, pushing in before him into the igloo a present of wlude-blubber and muk-tiik. The approach of the party had not been noticed because of the thickness of the weather. Cordial srreetinors were iollowed by feasting through the evening, and after the igloo was sealed, a lengthy conference was held, as the result of which it was dctcniiineil iliat Hall, with Ebierbing, Too-koo-li-too, and Ar-mou and lii> laiiiily, should spend the rest of the winter at Now-yarn. TIm- laiLK t i^art of the stores being deposited amid the rocks, and Hall lia\iii;^ made two trips to Rae's oven in which he now stored his inediciiie-chests and smaller articles, the move was begun under bright January. 1866.1 Death of Ar-too-a. 215 moonlight, at 3 a. m. of the 5th. Twenty dogs drew out of the igloos very heavy loads of venison from the unconsumed stores. The larger part, however, was re-cached, while a number of fine deer-skins were necessarily abandoned. The two women, with their babes on their backs, led the way, a seat on top of one of the sleds being soon found for Too-koo-li-too, who had been sick. ITall and Ou-e-la walked by the first sled, Kbierbing and Nii-ker-zlioo by the second, and Ar-mou and Oong-oo-choo by the third. But the loads were too heavy for them to finish the rougli journey to Now-yarn before night ; the pile from one sled, therefore, was cached, and the sled put up on end, and wal- rus-lines hung from its peak to swing in the wind and frighten the bear and the wolf from the cache. The journey was finished at 3 p. m. At Now-yarn the new-comers were cordially received with the usual feast of venison and tood-noo, and two new igloos were quickly built. Hall found the widows of Ar-too-a and Sho-slie-arl-nook, and their mother in deep mourning, the long, coarse, raven hair of Ar- too-a's widow completely hiding her face, neck, and shoulders. News of the death of Ar-too-a had been brought to Hall by Nu-ker-zJwo und Oong-oo-choo some weeks before. Ar-too-a had gone out in liis li-a (or one-man boat) alone. This was contrary to Innuit custom, l)ut he was known as a bold, venturesome spirit who never quailed to attack the bear with a single spear, or to hunt the fierce walrus far out on the ice ; his death had been more than once })redicted. At the time it happened, one of the Innuit women on tlie shore heard a cry of distress, and on her giving the alarm, two ki-as quickly pushed out into the lake. They found lu's boat and his implements, except one spear, but his body had sunk. It was supposed that while he was spearing one of a band of deer crossing the lake, some huge buck 216 The Ki-as of Bcpuisc Bai/. [Febrnary, 1866. proved nglv, and in the encounter kicked up his heels, striking the boat, which was at once upset. Hall notes the difference between the ki-as of this country and those of Greenland, Frobisher Bay, and Hudson's Strait: Till- ki-a.s here are of far less weight than those of (Ireeiiland — not so long or so wide. Indeed, they are not more than 25 ponnds weight, while those on the west side of Davis's Strait ofttimes exceed 100 ponnds. A Greeulander, or any Innnit anywhere from Hndson's Strait np to aSTorthmnberland Inlet, on getting into one of the li-as of this conntry wonld capsize as <]uickly as a white man in theirs. Ebierbing at first could do nothing in them bnt roll over. Ma an- nlll ti;iht-r<.pc was in use, stretched witliin the ifjloo by tliongs of wal- lii 226 Beady to Move. [iwarch, isee. cal miles (by middle latitude sailing, 9.65.8 ; by Mercator, 959.8)." The coast which this native delineated, and with most of which he was well acquainted, exceeded six times this distance. With all the indentations of the coast from Ig-loo-lik to Eepulse Bay, and thence to Fort Churchill, he still was familiar, except the further or most westerly extent of Chestei-field Inlet. He had been on Southampton Island twice ; the first time drifting there on the ice while walrusing in the winter. From his map and from others drawn by natives, par- ticularly from the sketch of Lyon's Inlet, to be found in a later part of this Narrative, Hall received valuable assistance on his subsequent journeys. The occupations of the quiet stay at Fort Hope had included the selecting and preparing the necessary provisions and stores, and putting them up in convenient packages encased in strong bags of India-rubber cloth ; such as could not be carried awa)^ being either cached or cov- ered over in the Sylvia, which was secured from exposure. For Hall's personal comfort, Mam-marh made him a pair of Jcod-lins, or breeches, from the Siberian squirrel-furs presented to him the preceding season by his friend Captain Kilmer. On the 30th of March, I-vi-tuk came merrily down to Fort Hope, with all the dogs belonging to See-gar and Ar-goo-moo-too-Uk^ to assist Hall on his proposed journey north. These teams, with some dogs which had been left with him by his friend Ou-e-la, were the best prac- tical assurances of good feeling renewed with his old friends. Daring the winter he had almost despaired of securing a team, and his own stock consisted of but " two female dogs, equal to one good dog, and two puppies, equal to a quarter of a good dog." He had been unable to obtain others at a lower price than a double-barreled gun for each. march, 1866.1 Reuchj foY King William^ s Land. 227 I-vi-tiiJc's coming enabled him to anticipate the day for the move toward Neitchille. Now-yarn had been abandoned by the scattering of the people to hunt and fish ; Ou-e-la, for this object, was already upon the lakes. Hall was ready to leave all the people in full good humor. He presented them with venison, and gave to the men letters to the expected whalers, in which he asked that such reasonable requests as might be made for ammunition and provisions should be granted ; the compensation for these he expected would be made to the whalers by his two chief friends in the United States. He had now a goodly party ready for the forward move, having only the regret that the women and children must accompany them. It may be questioned, however, whether his efforts to prevent this had been wise ; nor did the sequel show that the women were really an incumbrance. The METEOROLOGICAL NOTES kept in the winter quarters are of interest. The changing temperatures experienced during this second winter of seven months will be appreciated by the following quotations from some specific dates within that period : The first snow of the season fell September 9 ; an inch only in depth ; it assisted the hunters in tracking deer. Ice formed on the bay and river for the first time on the 12th of the mouth following. The canvas tents becoming un- comfortable, Icom-mon/fs protected the party until they found enough snow on the 29th to build their igloos, and were driven into them by the sudden occurrence of severe storms. The snow-drift of this date prompted Hall to say : I defy any man to make true observations of the number of inches of snow that falls on an average during the winter in the Arctic Eegions. Drift and 228 Meteorological Notes Duruff/ the Winter. falling- suow are all iiiterniiuj;lc'd, and both are swept aloug over the earth at a speed that, sometimes I tliiuk, should take them round the great globe in forty minutes. Ofttimes the shrewdest natives cannot tell whether it is simply drift riving- or both falling snow and drift. The weather at times during November was so warm that the roofs of the igloos needed rebuilding. Repeated appHcations of new blocks were made to the places from which the melted snow was dripping. The 22d of January, 1866, was a hurricane day. Within the igloos 1 luried deep under the drift, the howling of the storm was heard through- out tlie night. The women, rising first as usual, cleared the passage- way, and came back from its mouth to tell of the tempest. At nine o'clock Hall attempted to go outside to make his observations, but as he stepped beyond the wind-proof wall of snow-blocks which shielded the entrance-way to the tunnel, he was instantly knocked heels over head. On raising his head, for one instant he saw the snow flying; the next, he was blinded; but by little and little he worked himself, directly in the eye of the hurricane, till he struck on what he knew to be one r>f tlie snow -walls of the tunnel. He says that "the whole world around seemed one mighty snow-drift, and if he had any conscious- ness at all. it was that he felt as though he were in chaos. Heaven had his lirst thanks, and the Inniiit who built that snow-wall his second." On the loth of February a hurricane prevailed all day, charged Mith a tciiijx'raturc of — 40". At one time, one of the dogs was found entin-K biiiicd under the drift, his line being too short to let him keep upon the suit'acc. When released he was a happy dog ; even before eating, '' i>risk as a cricket." Anroias. 229 Auroras were of frequent occurrence tliroug-hout the winter, except during- the montli of Januar3^ ]\Iore than once, on witnessing them, Hall finds the question arising in his mind — AMiy is it that the aurora is almost always seen in the southern heavens?* Why do we not see the same north of us ? I have seen the aurora at AYager Bay, at Noo-wook, at Depot Island, and from various places about Jiepulse Bay, and almost uniformly the phenomena is seen southerly of the jtoiiit wherever I happened to be. The same was true in my previous voyage (18()()-()2) — that the aurora was seen south. In this conne(;tion I Avould state tluit from all I have been able to learn in the many close observations I have made; during their dis- plays, the aurora is generally not far distant — ofttimes within a few hundred feet — and continues within a stone's-throw of one's head. If an army of men were close together in line, and extended from here to York Factory, I am sure each man would see the auroral displays all south of him ; and yet the most distant displays would not exceed ten or fifteen miles, while the most would be within a half to three miles of him. On November 7 the rays of an aurora shot horizontally to the eastward, in the direction of the magnetic meridian. At 7 p. m. of the lOth, a thin auroral veil covered the sky, lasting twenty minutes. On the 6th of February, the passage-way of Hali's ir/Ioo was flooded with the light of an aurora. On going out, he saw — A long belt, extending far east-southeast and far west-northM'est, the center of it a trifle south, but apparently withm a pistol-shot. The rays were all vertical, and dancing right merrily. This whole belt was remarkably low down — that is, apparently not more than 50 or 75 feet from the earth — and along the base of it, from end to end, was one continuous stream of prismatic fires, which, with tlie golden rays of light jetting upward and racing backward and forward — some dancing merrily one way, while others did the same from the opposite ii til.- liitli (if Marcli — A \v»»ii(lions (lisi»la.v strctclicd across the soutljeni heavens from east-sontli- east K. wrst soulliwcst. Tlie eastciii lialf was ia tlie form of !i)i arch with verti- Auroras. 231 (•al rays, while the western half was convolved in such vast glowing circles that nearly a quarter of the heavens seemed on fire. The eastern half consisted of bosses or birch broomheads, springing into life and dancing merrily to and fro along the vertex of the highest rays forming the arch; to each broomhead was a com])lete nucleus, well defined, about which the rays, inclined about 45° to the east, played most fantastically. One was quite alone in its glory, for not only had it the embellishments of its sister broomheads, but golden hair radiated from its head in all directions. [Willi Hall's notes it may be interesting to compare those made by Lieutenant Weyprecht, of the Austrian ship TegetthofF, while wit- nessing the auroras of the Eastern Hemisphere.] There in the south, low on the horizon, stands a faint arch of light. It looks as if it were the upper limit of a dark segment of a circle; but the stars which shine through it in undiminished brilliancy, convince us that the darkness of the segment is a delusion produced by contrast. Gradually the arch of light grows in intensity and rises to the zenith. It is perfectly regular; its two ends almost touch the horizon and advance to the east and west in proportion as the arch rises. ISTo beams are to be discovered in it, but the whole consists of an almost uniform light of a delicious tender color. It is transparent white, with a shade of light green not unlike the pale green of a young plant which germinates in the dark. The light of the moon appears yellow, contrasted with this tender color so pleasing to the eye, and so indescribable in words, a color which nature appears to have given only to the Polar regions by way of compensation. The arch is broad, thrice the breadth, perhaps, of the rainbow, and its distinctly marked edges, are strongly defined on the profoifnd darkness of the Arctic heavens. The stars shine through it with undiminished brilliancy. The arch mounts higher and higher. An air of repose seems spread over the whole phe- nomenon; here and there only a wave of light rolls slowly from one side to the other. It begins to grow clear over the ice; some of its groups are discernible. The arch is still distant from the zenith; a second detaches itself from the dark segment, and this is gradually succeeded by others. All now rise toward the zenith ; tlie first passes beyond it, then sinks slowly toward the northern horizon, and as it sinks, loses its intensity. Arches of light are now stretched over the whole heavens ; seven are apparent at the same time on the sky, though of infe- rior intensity. The lower they sink toward the north, the paler they grow, till at last they utterly fade away. Often they all return over the zenith, and become 2ci2 Auroras uf fhi' Eastern Hemisphere. extinct just as tlR'V came. * * * But, again, another form. Bands of every i)0ssible form and intensity have been driving over the heavens. It is now 8 o'clock at night, the hour of the greatest intensity of the northern lights. For a moment some bundles of rays only are to be seen in the sky. In the south a taint, scarcely-observable band lies close to the horizon. All at once it rises rapidly and spreads east and vrest. The waves of light begin to dart and shoot; some rays mount toward the zenith. For a short time it remains stationary, then suddenly springs to life. The Avaves of light drive violently from east to west; the edges assume a deep red and green color, and dance up and down. The rays, shoot up more rapidly; they become shorter; all rise together and approach nearer and nearer to the magnetic pole. It looks as if there were a race among ill*' rays, and that each aspired to reach the pole first. And now the point is reached, and They shoot out on every side, to the north and the south, to the east and the west. Do the rays shoot from above downward or from below upward f "\Mio can distinguish ? From the center issues a sea of flames ; is that sea red, white, or green! Who can say — it is all three colors at the same monu'iit ! The rays reach almost to the horizon; the whole sky is in flames. I>ature displays before us such an exhibition of fire- works as transcends the powers of imagination to conceive. Involuntarily we listen : such a spectacle we think iiuist be accompanied with sound. But unbroken stillness prevails; not the least sound strikes on the ear. Once more it becomes clear over the ice, and the wliole phenomenon has disaj^peared with the same inconceivable rapidity with which it came, and gloomy night has again stretched her dark veil over everything. This was the aurora of the coming storm — the aurora in its fullest siilend(»r. Xo pencil can draw it, no colors can i)aint it, and no words can describe it in all its magnificence. And here below stand we poor men and speak of knowledge and progress, and j)ride ourselves on the understanding with which we extort from Nature her mysteries. We stand and gaze on the mystery which Nature has written for us in llaming letters ou the dark vault of night, and ulti- mately we can only wonder and confess that, in truth we know nothing of it. He \\ ho lias seen its phenomenon in its full splendor, when in the vast silence the entire vault of heaven seems to consume in flames of intense colors, when streams of Wvi-. Iiiiious and liantic in wild eliase all ai'ound, rush u])ward to the zenith, lie who lias observed the excitement which in such moments manifests itself in the elements (tf 'I'errestrial magnetism — to him it must become a life task to aid in i(inu\iiiL: the thick \cil which shrouds this mysterious exhibition of Natiu'e's ))o\ser. Aitlmiii;|i in most intimate coinieet ion w itli the disturbances of Terres- Auroras in the Easiern Ilenmphere. 233 trial magiietisiii and utterly inseparable from it, still it is out of our power to discern the links which chain them together. Theory after tlieory has been i)ro- X)Osed, but none is adequate; the obscurity which lowers over this indescribable phenomenon is as intense to-day as a hundred years ago. ("New Lauds within the Arctic Circle.") HAPTEF^ FIRST ADVANCE TOWARD KING WILLIAM'S LAND- SLEDGE JOURNEY TO COLVILE BAY AND RETURN. MARCH 31 TO MAY 25, 115B6. CHAPTER VIII. Start fok King William's Lani> March :U— Hall's companions— His kxposurk — Walks be- hind THE sledges — Gale-bound — Innuit legends of the wolf and the bear — An- KOO-TING FOR TOO-KOO-LI-TOO'S SICK INFANT — UNCERTAINTY OF THE (a;iDES — Dr. Kae'S chart followed — Letters sent back to the whalers — Tardiness of the natives — Eenewed an-koo-ting for the child — Fi;rther delays — Icing of the sleds re- newed— The Sea of Ak-koo-lee reached on the twenty-eighth day of a .tourney, once made BY' EaE IN FIVE DAYS — MEETING WITH NATIVES FROM PeLLY BaY — THEIR AC- COUNTS OF Franklin's ships— Eelics obtained from them— Intimidation of Hall's MEN BY THESE NATIVES — HaLL COMPELLED TO RETURN FROM COLVILE BaY — LEAVES A DEPOSIT AT Cape Weynton for his next journey — Buries Too-koo-li-too's child, "Little King William''— Arrives at Beacon Hill May -2'A — The Innuits agree to go BACK the next YEAR. The first page of the Note-Book for the last day of Marcli, 1866, has on its face, in bold writing, ^^ Now for King WiUiam^s Land! Up at 4 a. m. and getting ready for a starts The wind was fresh from the north-northwest, and the temjiera- ture '' 50 degrees below frost-point," yet Hall decided to make his first advance of five miles as far as Ou-e-Ms resting-place on North Pole Lake, and from that point to send forward two sledge-loads of stores, after which, before setting ont finally on his journey, he would make a safe deposit of his records at the base of Beacon Hill on its northeast side. Ebierbing, Ar-mou, Nii-Jier-zhoo, young She-nul--shoo and his mother, with Too-koo-li-too and the families of Ar-mou and 237 238 Sdll Sets Out in a Gale. [warch, isee. XK-ker-^hoo, made up his party. He remained behind for a little while to compare his chronometers, and, after '^ rendering thanks for (his) innumerable blessings, to ask protection on departing for a country where dangers would be found on every hand." Follo>ving the tracks of the sledges as well as he could trace them through the increasing (hitT, lie soon overtook his party. All the other natives who had been at tliis time at the encampment had now gone off in different direc- tions, some toward Now-yarn and others to the lakes. The gale became very severe, beating fiercely and directly in the face of one who was poorly prepared to bear it from his having eaten little or no food for several days. In writing of this, he says there had been before him an abundance of such as he would have relished if he could relish anything ; but he had been so busy in writing and so enwrapped in anxieties that he had little or no appetite. Let one wlio has had the like exj)erience as mine, with no other people but savages to deal with, say whether my task has been an enviable one during all the time of making every due aiTangement and preparation for this journey. The labor of the writing I have done, without speaking of anything else, has been enough to kill many a man, and has nearly killed me. Coming up with the sledges, he now lunched on raw frozen venison with the voracious appetite which the cold gale had created; and on finding that Ar-mou had harnessed himself beside his four dogs, placed himself at the rear of the sledge, helping it forward by constantly following up and pushing. Holding his head low down, he was sheltered from the sharp wind by the load on the sled. Before midday they were all met by Ou-e-la with sick wife (No. 1), coming dr)wn the river in haste to be doctored. Igloos were built, and twenty- one ])lnblMT, and telling him that she would soon return for the meat which she cnlns with Xn-ker-zlioo and his wife about Franklin's Expedition. Delays increased. But little disposition was now found among tlic Iiniuits, (•!• oven in I'^bierbing, to push on to King William's Land. April, 1866.) Delays. 247 They feared that they would find no reindeer there, and that if they reached the place they would be compelled to return to Pelly Bay for the winter. Hall encouraged them to believe that they would be among a number of natives, and would find sufficient provision; but as no one of them could appreciate his chief object, he could gain upon them only by alternately showing determined resolve and next persuasion — the latter was of necessity the usual course. He resolved on spending as little time as possible in making astronomical observations or in writing. His notes of the day contain the expression of a purpose, that if even all the Innuits deserted him, he would go on with a sledge-team by himself; for he never could return to his country without accom- plishing something of the objects for which he had left his home. It may be remarked, in passing, that the sincerity of this record is confirmed by the fact that he not only might have returned in one of the whalers during the previous summer, but that he had been apprised by his friend Mr. Grinnell of the willingness of Captain Chapel now to look him up in Repulse Bay and bring him back. On the 14th he could easily have made ten miles had Nu-ker- zlioo and Ebierbing been any other than Innuits. In the night, how- ever, these friends proved their value in another way — by saving the dogs, his northern camels. Plunging, though unarmed with even a knife, into a pack of twenty-five devouring wolves, they frightened them ofi" by shouts ; more than once the furious animals formed in fine for a new attack. Delayed until 10 a. m. of the following morning by this night-watch against the wolves and by Nii-lxer-zlwo's renewing his an-koo-ting for Little King William, the sledges at last started forward, and made better progress through the day, although the wind fresh- ened to a gale from the north, and the run was made more difficult 248 An-hoo-tmg for the Babe Benetved. [April, iseo. bv the recent fiill of snow. At times, the teams were doubled up to ascend the hill, the change requiring but half a minute. When one of the drivers was found nearly exhausted by his peculiar Innuit uro-ino' of his dogrs, Hall drove his team and o^xve him a small swig- of Bourbon ; and by extending the gift later in the day to the other men, gained their willing travel of an additional hour. While passing over one of the lakes, She-nuh-slioo picked up a mass of reindeer-hair with a piece of the skin having fresh blood on it — a mark of the work of some of the very numerous wolves, whose tracks were all along the route. The thirty-fourth encampment was made at 4.47 p. m., the wind blowing a gale and the snow flying thickly. While the}^ were building igloos, Hall himself succeeded in chiseling in thirty-five min- utes through ice 6 feet thick, and in one hour slaked his great thirst with " four quarts of glorious water." On their way they had passed the grave of the unfortunate Ar-too-a, who, as has been before noted, had been drowned in the lake the preceding summer. The course during the day had been north 53° east, and the rate of travel had averaged two and a half miles an hour. Where they halted, a great number of Innuit stone-marks were found, set up to direct the bands of migrating deer across a narrow channel of the lake passed over. At night another furious wolf-attack was repelled. A new and tedious delay began on the 15th. The mother of the sick child, alarmed by its much-changed looks, again summoned her I'riends, and Nii-l^er-zlioo renewed his an-koo-ting, beginning this time by a solenm march with Ebierbing's double-barreled gun in hand, and uttering for some fifteen minutes along the passage-way the most v<.cif('rous cries. Within the ^gloo, on the full renewal of the stone- lilting feat, the replies of the Spirit through the an-ge-lco to the dis- April, 1S66.] The Babe Given Away. 249 tressed mother were positive that the child would live ; and her belief in this was confirmed by its temporary revival from what had seemed to Hall when he looked on it in her hood, to be the presence of actual death. The confidence of the parents in his judgment, he thought, how- ever, was weakened by their remembering his having given them hope of the life of their child Too-lie-li-le-ta (the Butterfly) not long before it died in New York in 1863. The an-ge-ko renewed his positive assurances by the answers from the lifted head of the girl, Took-too, after he had. completed his work with the stone. Two days after, the mother, in her despair and professed willingness to do anything to save life, pro- posed to fall in with the custom practiced by her own people of Cum- berland Inlet, which is, in such cases of extremity, to save life hy giving away the child to another person. Her own immediate connections on the inlet had been unfortunate in the loss of their children, but she remembered and related several cases in which, as her people thought, health had been in this way certainly restored. Whether it was by request or not does not appear, but Nu-ker-zhod's wife came to the igloo the same evening, and was witness to the clear answers through the again lifted head of Took-too that the babe must be given away the next morning. Too-koo-li-too had taken full share in the feat of the evening, contributing a peculiar wood-button to the an-ge-ko, who threw it rapidly down, first on one side and then on the other of Took- too^s head, dashing it finally against the igloo wall; and she gave up the babe the next morning to the woman who had consented to receive it from her before the an-koo-ting began ; but, a day or two after, on Hall's telling Nu-ker-zhoo boldly and with fire in his words that the child must go back, another an-koo-ting restored it. The mother had suffered, too, for want of her babe at the breast, and the 250 Uncertainty as to the Route. [April, iseo. cliild liad no nourislimeiit except a piece of raw meat to suck. With but one exception, however, entreaties to resume the administering of medicine were refused up to the day of its release from its sufferings. On the morning of the 16th, Ebierbing and Hall climbed a hill 300 feet above the lake, but were shut out from any clear sight of the sea to the north by the thickly-flying snow ; they thought that through the spy-glass they could obscurely make out sea-ice. All along their route, tracks of tlie musk-ox were now plainly recognized by their stand-droppings, so much larger than those of the deer ; reindeer were seen, but the travelers had no weapons with them but long knives. The view from the hill took in lakelets in every direction ; the one on which tliey were encamped, was three-fourths of a mile in length, with an arm on the other side of the hill that seemed to extend itself to the sea; while the number of the lakes made it more difficult than ever to deter- mine whether they were really upon Dr. Eae's old route. Hall thought that a dozen different routes might be followed from Christie Lake to the Sea of Ak-koo-lee. On his return from the hill, he found that a puppy had capsized his artificial horizon, spilling all the mercury, and Mani-tnark had not much improved the matter by gathering it from the snow into a tin dish. Provoking as this was, he had to make the best of it, as a few days before he had done when the dogs fell to fighting while he was taking his meridian observations — the dogs, in the muss, knocking the liorizon over and over. Such annoyances and worse ones, not unfre- quently occurring, he wished all the dogs in "Tophet"; j^et he writes, tliey " are a blessing to an Arctic traveler. I hope some day to have tlu'ir aid in ^"-etting to tlie North Pole." < )n liic 17th, another day was forced from him for rest by the April, 1S66.] The Slcdcje Capsized to Stop the Dogs. 251 Innuits. Eighteen days had now passed without making an advance of more than thirty-two miles to his present position, lat, 67° 4' N. ; but such delays as had been necessary on the score of humanity were not regretted. During this day, Ebierbing, who had seen Hall's tooth- pullers and heard him describe lancing the gums, drew out one of his own three-pronged molars, bleeding himself profusely by his four trials. On Hall's looking over his instruments, and taking out with them a couple of combination knife-fork-and-spoon articles. Mam-mark who saw them, told him that she had seen among the Innuits at Pelly Bay many forks, all of the same silver-like look, as well as many watches and chains. The day following, all the men, women, and children were break- fasted on bread and coffee; they once more made a start, the travel averaging two miles per hour, and by four o'clock, with difficulty, arrived at a place within two miles of the sea. While going down the hill to Salt Lake, the descent being at an angle of about 4.5°, and the loads heavy, all the dogs were detached and the sledges let go on their own hook. A little further on, Hall's sledge fell behind, the runners dragging heavily. In order to renew the shoeing, his driver and him- self filled their mouths with snow-water, which would again freeze while they were putting it on ; but She-nuk-shoo grunting out that he would lose his mouthful if even he cried out to the dogs to stop, they capsized the sledge to stop them. Five minutes later they were gliding over the snow as if over glass. A different kind of grunting, took-too- like, made by Nu-ker-zhoo, kept a band of deer following the sledge so closely for more than two miles that their eyes were plainly seen when they stopped to stare. He kept up with Hall, yet took time to make several shots, and killed a fine buck. 252 Arrival at Cape Lady Pelly. [Aprii, isee. By tlie 1 1'tli of tlie month, Ilall liad struck the rough ice of the sea of Ak-koo-lee, and, passing over one of its small arms, made his encamp- ment upon it. On the 20th, he measured a rough lunar distance to test the correctness of his dates, and confirmed them by comparison of this measurement with those given in the Nautical Almanac; he was unable to make any further advance on this day. The first headland met on resuming the journey on the 21st was a projecting point 100 feet in height. On the 22d, by meridian observations, he determined his lati- tude, and by comparison of four chronometers found his longitude to agree Avithin 11' of that given on Dr. Rae's chart; the latitude agreed very well for the relative situations of Cape Lady Pelly and Point Hargrave. Making an effort to push his advance parties forward by longer journeys, of at least 25 miles per day, by saving the time usually spent in loading up and in building igloos, on the 23d he reached Cape Lady Pelly, and halted to discover how he might get round the point, as the ice was exceedingly rough. ''Jagged and broken granite stones are in plenty here, where I suppose Dr. Rae made his advance deposits in 1854." The land a little further on was found to be very low, forming an inclined plane to the coast, interrupted by a short highland one mile distant from and parallel with it. As far as to Point Swanton, the coast-line was afterward found so low that it was difficult to tell whether they were on sea-ice or land ; the travel was upon the ice-foot, which was from 10 to 30 yards wide, on the outside of which were heavy masses of very rough ice from 50 to 200 yards in width, while the sea itself was covered with solid pack-ice. On the 24th two deer, shot by Kbior])ing and Ar-mou v;\i\i Hall's favorite rifle, were added' to the h.ads (in the sleds. Tlie older one had antlers 18 inches long, which, April, 1866.1 Fast Driving. 253 being a female, she had not shed. She was found with young the size of a rabbit; this the Innuits forbade to be taken from lior. Pai'tridges white as snow, rabbits, and a number of snow-birds were seen. On the 25th they halted on the ice, in three igloos, and Hall congratulated him- self that he had that day advanced the whole company and stores 17 miles; to accomplish which, however, he had made 60 miles, taking in all the advance and return trips necessar}^ for forwarding the stores. But the next two days were again lost. The Innuits pleaded that they must go on a musk-ox hunt, and on Hall's consenting to this for one day, they next pleaded that the first day of halt must be one of rest. On the day following, they failed in their hunt, and would not turn aside to secure the deer which were close by. Hall, not willing to be unoccupied, made a side journey to bring up his deposits ; but he was obliged to take the reins into his own hands from the im- petuosity of his young driver, She-nuk-sJwo, who had whipped the dogs so incessantly as to keep them jumping over one another, so that in five minutes the lines became woven and interwoven up to the heels of the hindmost dogs — a very unusual occurrence. With much less whipping, Hall secured as fair speed. On the next day he worked up his observations and obtained from his men the prom- ise of greater haste. Nu-her-zJioo told him they ought to reach Pelly Bay, still 80 miles distant, in three days. On the 27th, the fresh provisions being nearly exhausted, the whole party breakfasted on coffee and pemmican ; at a late hour, only a load of stores was pushed forward by Ebierbing and Nu-ker-zhoo. Returning at 10.30 p. m., Ebierbing reported that these had been deposited at a point which, as well as he could make it out l)y l)r Rae's chart, was close by Cape Weynton, on the soutli side of Colvile 204 Feeding the Dogs. [Aprii, jsee. Bav. Hall ^yas here forced to remember that Dr. Rae in 1854 had made the same journey from Fort Hope in five days, his party dragging* their own provisions without even the aid of a dog. It had now cost himself twenty-eight days with the help of his teams. All the Innuits believed, however, that liae must have found the ice on the sea of Ak-koo-lee much smoother, or it would have been impossible for him to travel so far out from the coast-line. The dogs not having been fed for five days, a 40-pound piece of whale-beef was now cut up and buttered for them with ooh-gook blub- ber and seal-oil. They were then put in one by one into an abandoned igloo, while Mammark stood inside, club in hand, to beat off all but the one to be fed, and to pound him out when Hall had fed him. A short time before, Ar-mou had nearly killed one of his best dogs by throw- ing a hatchet at him for stealing, and to recover this hatchet which had been left behind, and a w^ood-button used by the an-ge-ko, had cost Hall some of the provoking delays of the jom-ney. On the 28th no advance was made. The march would have been resumed northward and westward despite of a severe gale, but Too- koo-li-too was entirely broken down by the continued watching of her child. After a serious talk with both parents, they once more per- mitted it to take medicine while in an epileptic fit — "two drops of A-iratum \ iride and one-half grain of asclepin." The day following, the wind being fresh from north-northwest and the temperature 40° l)elow freezing-point, three miles per hour (two and a half on direct course) were made within the hours from 9.40 a. m. to 6.20 p. m., two stoppages being needed to disentangle the dog-lines. Two small streams were ])assed, which emptied into the sea of Ak-koo-lee. 11ie travel was mostly on tlie coast-line ice, the coast itself and the hilly April, istiG.] Meeting tvith Natives from Felly Bay. 255 land running" parallel with it being a plain lowland of from half a a mile to one mile in width. Cape Weynton was soon on their lar- board beam, bearing due west, and distant half a mile. The cape is not more than 50 feet in height. A new era in the history of this sledge journey now opened. As- cending a berg 30 feet above the level of a floe to prospect the best route across Colvile Bay, Hall, with Ar-mou and She-nuk-sJioo, caught sight of four strange Innuits who appeared to be sealing some three miles to the northeast. The sight occasioned some excitement, for, while there was every reason to establish friendly intercourse with these men, in order to obtain further information bearing upon the main objects of his expedition. Hall had his apprehension that if these should prove to be See-neem-e-utes, he would need to be cautious in every movement. He quickly unloaded one sledge and sent it back, with all the dogs, to hasten up the rest of his party ; they arrived at 2 p. m. But Nu-ker-zlioo, watching with a spy-glass the movements of these strange Innuits, felt sure that he recognized old friends. Hall's party going forward, therefore, arrived at 9.50 p. m. (sunset), at the snow village of the strangers, and made their fortieth encampment alongside of them on the ice of the sea, three miles from the coast and near Cape Beaufort. The next morning, no sooner was Hall's igloo unsealed than it was filled with new faces. Kok-lee-arng-nun, their head man, showed two spoons which had been given to liim by Ag-loo-ka (Crozier), one of them having the initials F. R. M. C. stamped upon it. His wife, Koo-narng, had a silver watch-case. This opened up the way for immediate inquiries. Through Too-koo-li- too who as usual soon proved a good intrepreter, it was learned that these Innuits had been at one time on board of the ships of Too-loo-ark, 25G Franldin and Crozier Described. [Aphi, isee. (the gvQut EsJi-c-))n(t-faj Sir John Franklin), and had their tiipiks on the ice alongside of him during- the spring and summer. They spoke of one sliip not far from Ook-kee-bee-jee-lua (Pelly Ba}^), and two to the westward of Xeit-tee-lik, near Ook-goo-lik. Kok-lee-arng-nun was '' a big bov when very many men from the ships hunted tooJc-too. They had guns, and knives with long handles, and some of their party hunted the tooJc-ioo on the ice ; killing so many that they made a line across the whole bay of Ook-goo-lik." The Pelly Bay men described the Esli-e- mut-ta as an old man with broad shoulders, thick and heavier set than Hall, with gray hair, full face, and bald head. He was always wear- ing sometliing over his eyes (spectacles, as Too-koo-li-too interpreted it), was cpiite lame, and appeared sick when they last saw him. He was very kind to the Innuits; — always wanting them to eat something. Ag-Ioo-ka (Crozier) and another man would go and do everything that Too-ho-arh told them, just like boys ; he was a very cheerful man, always laughing; everybody liked him — all the A'0&-/i^-was and all the Imiuits. Kok-lee-arng-nun showed how Too-loo-arh and Ag-loo-ha used t(» meet him. They would take hold of his hand, giving it a few warm and friendly shakes, and Too-loo-arh would say, ^'■Ma-my-too-mig-tey-mar Ag-loo-ka's hand-shaking was short and jerky, and he would only say, ^^Man-nig-too-meJ^ "After the first summer and first winter, they saw no more of Too-loo-arh ; ihen Ag-loo-ha (Crozier) was the TJsh-e-mut-ta." 'I'Ik' olrl man and his wife agreed in saying that the ship on board (if which they had often seen Too-loo-arh was overwhelmed with heavy ice ill the spring of the year. Wiiile the ice was slowly crushing it, tiie iiifii all worked for their lives in getting out provisions; but, before they cniild save much, the ice turned the vessel down on its side, crusliiiig the masts and breaking a hole in her bottom and so over- April, 1866.] Reported Visits by Innuits to Franklin's Ships. 257 whelming- her tliat she sank at once, and had never been seen again. Several men at work in her could not get out in time, and were carried down with her and drowned. '' On this account Ag-loo-kd!s company- had died of starvation, for they had not time to get the provisions out of her." Ag-loo-ka and one other white man — the latter called ^^Nar- tar^''^ a pee-ee-tu (steward) — started and went toward Oot-koo-ish-ee-lee (Great Fish or Back's River), saying they were going there on their way home. That was the last they saw of them, but heard of them some time after from a Kin-na-pa-too, who said he and his people heard shots or reports of guns of strangers somewhere near Chester- field Inlet. On getting the Innuits to try to pronounce the word "doctor," they invariably said ^'- nar-tarT This made Hall think that the white man with Ag-loo-ka was some one called "doctor" — perhaps Surgeon Macdonald, of Franklin's ship, the Erebus. The other ship spoken of as seen near Ook-goo-lik was in com- plete order, having three masts and four boats hanging at the davits — whale-ship like. For a long time the Innuits feared to go on board ; but on the report by one of them that he had seen one man on the vessel alive, many of the natives visited it, but saw nothing of the man. They then rummaged everywhere, taking for themselves what they wanted, and throwing overboard guns, powder, ball, and shot. At an interview with the mother of Too-shoo-art-thar-iu whose son saw Ag-loo-ka (Crozier) on the island of Ook-goo-lik, Hall was told that during the previous summer or winter, the Innuits of Ook-goo-lik had found two boats with dead koh-lu-nas in them — the boats on sledges ; and that In-nook-poozJi-e-jook had one of them. The several interviews from which the accounts here given have been collated were deeply interesting to Hall. They were held in the S. Ex. 27 17 258 Discouraging News. lApril, t§66. >t presence of his tAvo steadfast friends as interpreters, and of other Inniiits, and tlie news was commnnicated with apparent truthfulness. Ho savs of tlie chief tliat he seemed an honest old fellow, delighted with his new koh-lu-na friend, and frequently and cordially callina' out to him, ^^3Ian-nin-too-))ie.^'* The Franklin relics obtained from him included a mahogany barometer-case, P spoons, forks, and a number of other small articles.f But other news received from these strangers was any- thing but gratifying. It effectually barred further progress to King Will- liam's Land for the year 1866. The first words to Nu-ker-^hoo, MammarJi, and A7'-mou told the loss of their friends and relatives some years before by starv- ation, murder, and canni- balism. This was followed by such accounts of the KK. dangers awaiting them if they went on to Pelly Bay and Ook-goo-lik, as to throw a damper on the u h wore without wives, and who were being aided by the friends in their attempts to steal wives from tlieir hiis])ands, would certainly carry off Mam-mark; aud that he himself was leaving his own countr}' for Re- pulse Bay through fear especially f- — 'i of the See-nee-mee-utes. He added that he had given this information chiefly because of his friendship in past times for the parents of Ou-e-Ia, Nii-ker-.iJioo, and others, ^B and his promise to keep a good look B out for any of their children, if he should ever find them anywhere near the See-nee-me-utes. Three men of Kok-lee-arng-nun's party, one by one confirmed all that tlieir chief had said of the bad state of affairs among the natives northward siLVEitFoKic and spoons (ikankun kklicsI. and westward, and added that since a recent fight about a deposit, in which the See-nee-mee-utes had lost two men by the Neit-tee-liks, they were burning to wreak vengeance on somebod3\ Two of these Pell}^ Bay men told of their own visit, two years before, to Ki-ki-tung (King William's Land), on which they had remained a short time. 1 hey })ointed out on Rae's chart exactly the course they took in going and returning direct from the upper part of Pelly Bay overland to Spence Bay, and thence across the ice to Ki-ki- tung, passing the south point of Matty Island, and thence northwest ; — for sealing. When Hall questioned these two men as to any ships 2(i0 The Pelly Bay Natives Unfriendly. r April, iseo. havino- been seen on the north or west of Ki-ki-tung, they pointed ao-ain on Rae's chart to Cape Victoria, and said that, a few years before, many Innuits had seen a ship near there from which kob-lu-nas and sledsres had come down from the south. This information was again interesting, but its communication was soon followed by some acts of the new-comers themselves toward Hall's people, which not only decided but hastened his setting out on the return for Repulse Bay. They seemed to have easily intimi- dated Ebierbing, Nu-ker-zhoo, and others; getting from them some of their best dogs, weapons, and tools, and, a day or two after, inviting them to plays — boxing, wrestling, and knife-testing — an invitation from which Hall dissuaded them at the advice of Too-koo-li-too, who said there was danger of fighting and murder. She had been made aware of their custom of introducing a short, sharp-pointed bone inside of their mittens, so that, when boxing with these, they may strike a Repulse Bay native, if possible, on the side of the head near the eye : — a deathblow struck in play. They then proceeded to carry out a grand an-koot-ing, in the course of which their an-ge-ko gave a reply from the Spirit that Too-koo-li-too's sick babe should be given to them : a ruse, as Hall notes, to obtain further gifts. He came un- willingly to the conclusion that his own party lacked the nerve needed for any risk which might occur in going forward, although Nu-ker-zhoo liad for himself protested that he was not afraid. With a sad heart, "disappointed but not discoui*aged," he prepared for his return; yet making the resolve that he would endeavor, in the following year, to organize a party of four or five white men, with whom, together with Ar-mou, Nu-ker-zhoo, and Ebierbing, he would again come over this route and ivach King William's Land. For that journey he would May, J 866.] Holl Compelled to Return. 261 now make a deposit of expedition stores at Cape Weynton. His notes of this day contain these words : " Thanks be to God, I liave yet the heart to persevere in what I have taken upon myself to do : to reach King William's Land, and there finish the mission that I am on. Ob- stacle after obstacle has yet to be overcome before I shall triumph, but by the aid of High Heaven I will yet succeed." The RETURN JOURNEY could be expected to bring but httle of special interest or of an experience differing from that so recently passed through ; the route followed, as will appear by the map (Chap- ter XIH), was nearly the same; the Pelly Bay men traveled in Hall's company until the 19tli of the month, and then fell back to repair damages to their sleds. On the 5th, both companies made their start for Repulse Bay, presenting a singular and grotesque appearance with all their sledges, teams of dogs, men, women, and children ; the latter, of all ages and sizes, from infants in hoods to half-grown boys and girls. The sledge now driven by Nu-ker-zhoo was a relic of Sir John Ross's vessel, the Victory ; the runners, about 1 2 feet in length, being made of a part of one of her masts which had been found, many years, ago in the ice near the entrance to Pelly Bay. The day following, the stores for the next proposed journey to King William's Land were deposited in two places close to Cape Weyn- ton, the second deposit being that of a large trunk at a point near a cache once made by Dr. Rae ; an accurate list of all these stores appears in the notes. K tent given to Hall by Captain Kilmer of the Black Eagle, was spread over the articles, and then ponderous stones were piled above, and the bearings of the two deposits from prominent neighboring points carefully recorded. Wliile making these caches, 2iie point a ridge composed of sand, clay, and shingle only 4^ feet in heijrht 1» Miked to those travelino- on the sea-ice "like a considerable mount."* l-"rom Ca})e Weynton to Cape Lady Pelly, this low land, mostly consisting of frozen mud, was without snow, and appeared to have Ijcen so tln-ough the winter; some patches having thawed, loniiin^'- soft imid. In tlic frozen mud were many fossils, of which Ar-inoa brougiit in Ironi his took-too hunt a fine lot, and the wife of the may, isoG.i KUlh/f/ Manuots. 263 old chief emptied out on tli<^ sled aimndxT from lier full mittens; ITall had instrneted all the Inmiits to bring- to him all eui'ions-looking things whenever they saw them. Little provision remained on hand. He gave out his unpalatable damaged Marshall sausage-meat for breakfast, and, a\ hile he ate of the same food, he was glad to find that his plan succeeded, for a couple of the unwiUing Innuits now promptly started off for iool-ioo. He gives a racy account of the taking of some six-ics (marmots), Ebierbing, while the Pelly Bay Innuits intensely watched him, three times in succession missed the little animal, though using Hall's best rifle. The creature sat by his hole without fright all the time, except at the first shot when it went into his hole, but was quickly out again. At another hunt, Nu-lcer-zlioo, Ebierbing, and ^r-wwi( were all out with rifles; but, after their firing three shots, six-y darted into his hole and was in- stantly out again ; one minute later, another shot, and six-y was again out, as if saying ''Kill me, if you can." The Pelly Bay natives laughed at the weapons used; for with a simple string having a slip-noose — sometimes made of the end of a whip-lash — they readily caught a number of these little animals, one of which made a good meal for a man. See-xmng-er, one of the Pelly Bay men, came in at midday on the 0th, and, sticking his thumb and fingers straight out, showed his answer to the question how many he had killed and the bites he had received. The wife of KoJi-Iee-amy-nim also showed three six-ies slung on her back; she had caught them by a "slijj-a- noose" at their holes. But the stock of provisions was still short; the company at times could take but one meal a day, with the addition of a small bit of whale-beef, the dog-food. A crow which had come very close to the traveling party escaped l)oth the dogs and 264 Fossils in the Clay and Sand-Hills. [May, isee. rifle-shots. An owl had the same happy deliverance, but a few part- ridges were secured. At night in the kom-motig — pemmican-soup, with Borden biscuit, refreshed all except Too-koo-li-too, who, on account of lier sick child, was allowed by her superstitious friends to eat bread only. On the two days that followed, success in the deer-hunt re-sup- plied the company with fresh meat, and the dogs received something, although but little and that of "not much more account than sawdust- pudding"; the supply for seventeen animals being only two deer- paunches. But they had stolen seal-blubber and whale-meat from the sledges while they were loading up, in spite of unmerciful poundings with big sticks and clubs. On the 11th, when the party came near Rae's ''Point Hargrave," Hall left the sledges, and ascending the point, found its height to be about 75 feet above the level of the sea, and that it was a hill of rock (granite and gneiss, as Rae has recorded it), having on its eastern side a small inclined plane leading from the coast up to a gap on the ridge. From the top of the hill. Cape Lady Pelly and the land on the east side of the sea of Ak-koo-lee were plainly visible. At 7.15 p. m., having made scarcely more than a mile an hour on a course south- west from this point, he rested for the night, making his forty-fifth encampment on a sand-plain covered with very dirty snow. The after- noon route had been one of perplexing difficulties in making any head- way with tlie loaded sledges, but the discovery of clay and sand hills of a most interesting character, containing stores of valuable fossils of inimmerable kinds, well repaid him for the outlay of liunian and dog muscle tlifif li;i(l been expended in getting through the labyrinth of this "iiiiid ;iii(l lossil city," as he hastily called the place. On getting May, J 866.1 Death of Too-koo-U-too' s Bale. 205 through these fossil hills and returning- to his iffloo, ho found that Nu-ker-zJioo had put within it all the deer he had killed; a most kindly act, done without even a hint. It was another gratiiication to learn that his own black dog had added eight pups to their live stock. On the 13th, the long-expected death of Too-koo-li-too's child, Little King William, took place. The almost distracted mother, the moment she found that it was really dead, rushed out of the igloo, pressing the dead baby to her bosom and pouring out her soul's deep grief. Her leaving the igloo so quickly was in accordance with Innuit custom ; for if this is not done when any one dies in it, everything within becomes worthless. Tn this case it was considered that the mother went out soon enough, so that the bedding and everything else need not be thrown away. In ten minutes she returned and took her seat on the bed-platform, grieving for a very long time as a loving mother only grieves. At lengtli she was persuaded by Mam- mark to let the dead babe be taken from her bosom and wrapped in a small furred took-too skin. Mam-mark insisted that, according to the custom of her people, the remains must be buried at once ; but, on Hall's remonstrating and urging that they should be kept till at least the next day, a compromise was made, and the child that died at 25 minutes past 1 p. m. was buried at 6.30. The remains had been dressed in a suit of young took-too furs, made by the mother the winter before They were now wrapped in a blanket of took-too skin of long fur, tied witli thongs, and having a loop in it to go over the neck of the mother, who must carry the corpse. A hole having been cut through the wall of the igloo for the procession of four persons in single file, Hall, Mam-mark, the bereft mother with the babe suspended from her neck, and the father following close, proceeded to the ])lace 20(5 Burial of the Bahe. [May, 1866. (•1 burial on a little liill, which Hall had selected. Before the remains Avere laid in the grave, he wrote out the following- record : Tlie.sf are the mortal reiiiains of I>ittle King William, the only child of Ehierbing and Too koo li too, the inter])reters of the last Franklin Research Ex- j.cdition. Deposited here May 13, ISOO, the day of its death. God hath its soul now and will keej) it from all harm. — C. F. Hall, Maij 14, ISGG. This he placed within the fur cap covering- the head of the child, and returning next day to the g-rave, he erected near it a monument of five stones, three at the base — typical of Faith, Hope, and Charity — and on these the two others, forming the figure of a cross At the burial, though it was blowing a gale and a snow-drift was flying, the mother could not be prevailed upon to wear he.r double jacket to i)rotect herself from the storm. " She must needs comply with custom." Under the same influence, she had already borne for some days the inconvenience of wet feet; neither could her wet stock- ings be dried, nor the rips in her l)oots repaired. It w^as little comfort to her. a lew days after, to be told by Mam-marh and Nu-ker-zhoo that the child would have lived, as the " Spirit" had said to the an-ge-ko, if she had not consented, by Hall's advice, to receive it back from Nu- hcr-zhoda wife, or if she had not departed from the customs of the In- nuits in the matter of her daily living. She renewed her subjection to the customs of the people, and received their instractions, that for one year her husband and herself must be very careful wdiat they should eat, and tliat tln^ same be not raw; and her husband began his compli- ance NN ith such instructions by pleading the death of his child as for- biddinii- him to carry on his usual daily duties even in the matter of j)reparing the amnniiiition necessary for the hunt. Hall says here that probably none of tin; Eskimo tribes are cursed with so many ridicidous cust.»ms as the l^'cpidse liay and Ig-loo-lik people. iTiny, i8««.j Encampment near North Pole LaLe. 267 The 17th was a very warm (hiy, the theriiioineter reacliin"- 38°, although no sun appeared ; the upper ^^'alls of the kom-mongs fell in, and made necessary the erection of tent-coverings overhead. Th(3 day following, the snow melting as it fell, prevented the [)arty from resum- ing their return journey. The shoeing of the sledges also was found entirely thawed off during the night. In the morning Hall found that one of his pups had been suffocated by its mother lying ujjon it, and that, failing to lick it into life, she had eaten it for her breakfast. On the 19th, he found she had repeated the act, a few bloody sj)<)t.s only remaining to tell the tale. This left him but five of the litter, the birth of which had given him hope of efficient aid on his next journey. He had to handle this mother black dog and her })ups him- self, as the Innuits, through some superstitious notions, were unwill- ing to feed or to harness them. At 8 15 p. m. of this day the party began a further advance, jjre- ferring to travel at night, and averaging two and a half miles per hour, until twenty minutes past midnight. On leaving the small lake on which they had made their thirty-fifth encampment, April 19, deviat- ing now from the route of that date, they crossed a bluff the descent of which being very abrupt was swifth^ made by the loaded sledges themselves, when the teams, which had been doubled up for the ascent, were successfully detached. On the 21st, the party got back as far as the Lower Narrows, heretofore noticed as a deer-cross- ing, and on the 22d, they made the forty-ninth encampment on the same spot between Christie and North Pole Lake which they had occupied on the 5th of April. At this place See-pung-er arrived, to the surprise of all, with his fomily. He had been working hard to rejoin the party since being separated from them at the fort}-sixtli 268 Arrival at Beacon Hill. [May, isee. encampment. His sled was found to be very heavily loaded; for, besides his household goods, it had on it two cumbrous ki-a frames, one of which was made entirely from a boat of the Franklin Expedi- tion, and the sledge itself from a mast of Captain Ross's " Victory." In the midst of a howling storm, he was promptly supplied with an armful of took-too meat. The next day, in company with Nuker- zlioo and his family, he again left Hall for a time. On the 23d, the journey down the North Pole Lake was made swiftly by the use of a tent for a sail to the sledges, assisting the poor hungry dogs; the sled itself sometimes getting in advance of them. Ebierbing and She-mik-shoo traveled beside the sledge to guide it. Durino- the evening-, from three and a half to four miles an hour were made by sail only, and at fifteen minutes past 8 a. m. of the 24th, Hall revisited his boat Sylvia and his stores deposited at the base of Beacon Hill, March 31st, and to the record he had then placed on the Sylvia on leaving this point, he now added an inscription summing up the obstacles met witli on the journey and his plans for renewing it. He had the satis- faction to find that Ou-e-la had been faithful to his promise of that date, to take from the hill the half-barrel containing the records, and I)rotect them from any strange Innuits. It seemed plain from the snow-tracks that some of Ou-e-la's friends had been recently at the hill, ;iii<1 Ar-tiiou went off to find him. 'J he notes of the 25th read thus : To (lay my King William party was ended, for the present at least. This, of coiiise, wan in correspondence to the natural course of i)assiug events. Our wjjaration wa.s, however, for this reason : 1 desire to remain here a few days, and tiy and do .some writing, recounting the im])ortaut mattm- 1 have gained of the I'clly iJay natives relative to Sir John Franklin's Ex]H'li^ the bone belonging to him had been carried off from the October, 1866.] Auxioushj Aivaitwg. 287 shore by some of tlie sailors and not, entirely restored. Making up his remaining property into eighteen bundles, tied with rope-lashings and a three-stranded braid woven by Mam-marl-^ he placed on board the Ansell Gibbs a weight of about 1,500 pounds, to be sold on the return of the ship to the United States. But the whalers were not to return that season. The meager results of their cruises were now forcing the four ships, the 131ack Eagle, Ansell Gibbs, Concordia, and Glacier, to remain out another year ; and their captains were soon to choose between their winter- ing in this bay or else at Marble or at Depot Island. The choice between these was of the utmost moment to Hall. If the decision should be to winter at the places last named, none of the crews could be spared to him until the ships should have passed through another year. To go down with them, as invited, might possibly give him the opportunity of learning something of Crozier from the natives of Chesterfield Inlet, for there were rumors of their having seen him. And yet to remain where he was, if the ships left him, was of little promise, since his next journey was dependent entirely on his getting the men he needed, and he was unable to effect the arrangement by which he proposed to substitute for such as might be left with him an equal number of Eskimos; the natives themselves, with but one excep- tion, were unwilling to go. But if the vessels should winter in the bay, he would have the five men who might volunteer for the spring months at the wages of $50 per month, and with these he hoped to make his journey to King WilHam Land, return before the next whal- ing season was over, and be in the United States in the fall of 18G7. He waited for the decision of the captains with no little anxiety. Keturning to Beacon Hill and erecting his tupik on the same spot 288 Hall Builds an Igloo Near the Ships. [November, isee. wliere Rae had liis tents in 1847, Ids party succeeded within the next nine days in killing forty-one deer, but complained that the animals were shy and had kept off the coast. The crisping of the snow under foot was heard by the deer a long way off, and Hall himself had very little success, for when taking aim, his excitement was such that he invariably failed. He does not give his reasons for finding himself under the influence of this "buck-fever"; they may be almost in- ferred from what has been just written. His right eye had suffered some injury from his having neglected to use the colored glasses when taking his sextant observations; yet he made daily tramps from twelve to fifteen miles in the hunts. Under the anxieties which have been named and the rumor that the ships were to winter at Marble Island in the middle of the month, he again visited the Ansell Gibbs. The harbor was already filled with heavy ice, and the ships were constantly employed in keeping them- selves free; but the decision as to the place of wintering had not yet been made. On his return, before reaching Iwillik, he met with a severe storm which nearly capsized the Sylvia, and in landing he was gale-bound for three days, soon after which Ebierbing became danger- ously ill, continuing sick the whole of the following month. Hall seldom left him. His cliief trials, however, seemed now about to end. The cap- tains decided they would remain in the bay, and he had volunteers for his next journey. For carrying out his plans, therefore, and for a closer social intercourse, on the 24tli of November, he moved near the ships, building for himself an igloo on one of the small islands of the group within which the whalers had anchored (No. 1 of the map of Ship's Harbor Island). Intercourse with the ships then became still more cordial. I jTannary, 1867.] The Winter in an Igloo Near the Whalers. 289 The amnsements so necessary to sustain tlie cheerfulness and the health of officers and men during the tedious rigors of an Arctic winter, were fully maintained on board. A dress ball was given on the 29th, which was kept by the New England captains as Thanksgiving Day. In another, on New Year's eve, when some of the crew and a few of the Innuit women were dressed like civilized ladies, Hall had to make his choice between dancing and speech-making; preferring the former, he led off with the first mate of the ship. The captains always held a seat in reserve for him at their ^'- gammings'''' — yarn-spinnings, chatting, and smoking ; he reciprocated these hospitalities by sharing with his friends the stores lately received from Mr. Grinnell and by liberal gifts of skin-clothing. But while passing through these enjoyments noth- ing diverted his attention from his main purpose of selecting the volun- teers he needed. Quite a number offered themselves; and on shore he began the instruction of those whom he accepted by setting them at work to dig out snow-drifts, and by sending them at different times with his Eskimos to bring in meat from the deposits. He now thought that he had full reason to expect that when the stormy season had passed, he could make with these men a second sledge journey with success. Strange as it might seem to any one but Hall, for these two and a half months he still lived in his snow-hut, in daily sight and sound of the ships, which were now comfortably housed for the winter ; and this although his very frequent invitations to their warm and hospita- ble cabins warrant the belief that he might have taken up his quarters on board. But he declares that he could not rest with ease unless in his igloo. It was his own ; he could write up his notes in it and study his Arctic books. His plans for the next season, too, were again ab- S. Ex. 27 10 290 Men Secured, hut a Team Wanting. [February, iser. sorbing his thoughts. Even the pack of wolves which swept over his igloo near the ships, carrying off one of the dogs, is spoken of in his journal as though it had happened as an ordinary occurrence, and as though it were in the lonesomeness of Beacon Hill or among the In- nuits at Noowook. He would not depart from his rough Arctic diet ; nor in an}' other way unfit himself for the mission to whicli he still thought himself called. But this was again suddenly aiTested. Be- fore the first month of the new year closed, he found that he could not possibly make up a dog-team for a new journey. He might lose a whole third year, but this, at any sacrifice, he must endeavor to pre- vent : now that volunteers are engaged, he must secure the dogs. Chapter X. SLEDGK JOURNEY TO IG-LOO-LIK FOR DOOS. FEBRUARY 7 TO APRIL 1, mi CHAPTER X. Counter-claims on the IN^a!ITS roii theiu dogs — Hall determines to make a sledge jour- ney TO Ig-loo-lik to purchase his own team— Lkavks Ships' Harbor Islands Febru- ary 7 — First delays— Ou-e-la loses his way — Provisions become scarce— The mouths of the dogs tied up to prevent their eating the harness — Am-i-toke reached, but no natives found — Ou-E-LA ACCUSES HaLL OF BRINGING HIM TO STARVA- TION—IG-LOO-LIK REACHED ON THE 27TH — PURCHASE OF DOGS — VlSIT TO TeRN ISLAND, TO Parry's flag-staff — Ou-e-la puts a widow and her household goods on the re- turn SLED — Hall puts her off on the ice — Starts back with another native as driver — Ou-e-la's bad conduct on the return — Hall again sights the ships on THE 30th of March — The captains now refuse to let him have the men for his journey. Dogs enough could be found among tlie natives. They owned sixty-eight ; a number sufficient for nine or ten ordinary teams. Hall had several dogs of his own, and asked but thirteen, to make up the two teams he needed. He had anticipated no difficulty in securing these, for he had just claims upon the natives, as he had bargained for such as he would ask for, and really paid for the larger number in tobacco and other articles. But the captains of the four vessels unitedly inter- posed. They insisted that not a single dog should be permitted by the Innuits to go on this journey; claiming that they "had fed these people through the winter, and had as yet no opportunity of receiving much in return. The natives would soon need all their dogs in sled- ding blubber and bone from the open water to the ships, and the time 293 294 Hall Begins a Long Journey. [February, iser. of Hall's return from his proposed journey might be beyond the open- ing of the season. Then, men and dogs must be actively employed to increase, if possible, the poor returns of the past year." Hall could not even get one of his own dogs, which he had put in Ook-har -loo's trust on returning from the last sledge journey. He was the more suq^rised at this issue, because the use of the teams was as clearly within the ideas of the conversations held in the winter, as was his selection of the white men, which had met the approval of the cap- tains ; if any difficulty on this point had arisen in these conversations some trace of it would be found in his full notes Helpless to enforce claims upon the natives, who were fully willing to keep their promises, he determined to make a sledge trip to Am-i-toke, or perhaps to Ig-loo- lik, even in the very depth of the winter, to buy his teams. The jour- ney might be one of more than three hundred miles ; but another year could not be lost. The captains cordially supplied him with articles of barter, which, within the next few days, he carefully arranged, making up also his stores for the trip. Sending his white men to one of the deposits to get whale-meat for the dog-food, he fed the men on their return with whale-skin, remarking in his notes that he had edu- cated them until they really liked raw, frozen meat, and adding that, j)erhaps with these very men, on his next voyage, D. V., he would push his discoveries to the North Pole. His thoughts had been on such a voyage during the past season. It had been discussed with the wlialers, and he had openly avowed his intention to organize an expedition to the Pole as soon as he had completed his present mis- sion ; h(.' hold this voyage in mind when examining the volunteers loi' his present journey. After wjiitiii^i- the iT'tiirn of some of t'le natives from a trip made February, 1867.] The Do(jfi Upset the Sled. 295 to Lyon's Inlet for deer-meat, by the 7tli of the month lie luid secured fourteen dogs, and left Sliips Harbor Islands for Ig-hx.-lik. Tlic tem- perature was 40° below zero.* Ebierbing- and Too-koo-U-too, for rea- sons not named, were left belihid, and Frank Lailor, one of the wliite men, was placed in charge of his 'ujJoo. Oa-c-la, vvitli liis wife and half-breed child and the boy Oot-jnk, were his only companions. Arriving opposite Pitiktouyer, Oii-e-la, agreeably to Iniuiit custom, went on shore to pay a visit to the grave of liis brother, SJioo-she-ark-nook, and here the first trying delay was met witli; for after a night in an ir/loo, they already missed one of the dogs and found two oth- ers to be useless. A return to the ships became necessary. But another delay was occa- sioned by the dog-lines be- coming entangled ; on which the dogs were detached from the j9e-^o, but before being again fast- ened to the sled, they had roughly dragged Hall and Oot-pik along for some distance. This, however, was but a renewal of former experiences ; for Hall had more than once known the dog-teams pull well for a little while, then suddenly wheel around and overturn him and his driver. The remedy had been, to jump in among them and pound away ^^ith the hatchet until they were made tractable. Tlie pe-to^ on wliicli so much depended, was the line, made of heavy walrus or seal skin which fastened the dog-traces to the forward part of the sledge-runners: *It certaiuly marks strong resolution ami courage in Hall to undertake this northern trip in Fehrnanj. Captain Nares' (R. N.>ju(lgnient is, that, unless for the purpose of saving life, no one should he called upon to undergo the fearful privations of an Arctic sledge journey during March or even in the early part of April.— (Narrative of a Voyage to tlu' Polar Sea, 1H7S.) BE^Ul-TOOTII, USKD AS A TOGliLE. 296 Journey to Ig-loo-lik. i February, isor. passed tlirougli ivory eyelets at tlie end of the traces, its ends were bound together by a toggle. When Hall returned, he found that the captains were on a fishing excursion upon a lake seven miles distant. He had to send to them a request for their consent to get other dogs ; he slept that night in his old igloo with Lailor, and the next day rejoined Ou-e-la; his team had already traveled sixty-two miles since their first leaving the ships. On the 10th, they passed up the river at the mouth of which they had built their first igloo, and after crossing valleys filled with deep snow, and ascending a very steep hill, built their second hut upon a little lake. Ou-e-ld!s child had already proved an an- noyance by its constant whining and insatiable clamor for bread. On the 11 th, Ross Bay was crossed, in which was observed a tide- hole, half a mile in length, that smoked like a coal-pit. Seals were sporting in it. The day following, they came to an igloo occupied by a ])arty of Innuits, which Ar-movJs brother, with a team of seven dogs, was conducting toward Am-i-toke ; one of the boys of this party, Tuk- kee-U-ke-ta, was the son of Ag-loo-ka,^ a native who was said to have exchanged names with Parry.f An inlet was crossed which was not funding them out of the hut. Hn tli(^ isth and liith, he was again gale-bound; his notes express hiri feelings in the words " Too bad ; but God overrules all." The l.M.d ".n this day was of stinking ook-gook and whale-meat of a greenish tint, buttered with strong whale-blubber. Ou-e-la thought it would take at lea^st five days yet to reach Am-i-toke — discouraging enough, for the plan was to be l)a(k at the ships in time to start for King Willliaiirrt L;in; drawn in and set before his party. Their breakfast on the next day was »Mu-e nwjre on cooked meat, after which meal the Ig-loo-lik an-(j€-ho maii;d n<-;itness showing ilself in tlieir lloors of snow, "iced and nlmoht uiiHtaiiied:"' most ol them l)einoor driver, making but three and a half miles per htair. At one time he made a mistake, whipping the lash of his whi]) neross Hall's poor fare, making it sting woefully; but he quickly cut •^f r' = ir =■ ixxiiT noxE ciiAim, k; loo-uk. I N Ml T N I . I ; 1 1 l.r.-( ASK, i(;-i.<»i)-i.iK. INXl'IT KXIFE AXD SAW. IXXriT KXIFK. oil' tin* end nf the lasli, and sf^emed very sorry for the liann done. Soon after this aecichiit, a waim fur eap was made up for Hall by one (»f the 'I'l-ni Island women. Among other presents to him, which were n..t a few, were " bnnc clinrnis/' lidd in liigli esteem, and a bone- handh-d knih-. wliidi \\;is connectecl witli the sad story of some Cum- ])erland Inhi n;iti\<-s. whose Ix.nts had been crushed in the ice, when March, J 867.] VisU to Pamjs FJciff-Stoff. 305 nearly all of them were starved to death, 'llie knife had Ijeen nsed to scoop the brains out of the skulls of those who had been murdered to preserve the lives of the rest. Finding that Ou-e-la seemed deter- mined to take back with him to Repulse Bay the family with whom he had been bargaining, Hall at first resolved to make his own quick return without him, by taking E-nu-men, a native whom he had engaged on Tern Island, as the driver of a full team for a sledge made of liOiD, with just enough food for six days. He could thus hope to get back in time to leave Repulse Bay for King William's Land by the 1st of April. JE-nu-men agreed to go on as fast as he could drive, leav- ing Ou-e-la to come as he pleased. But as the dogs got at tliis how sled and nearly ate it up. Hall concluded that the journey could not be safely made on a sled which might at any moment be devoured by the hungry beasts; nor could Ou-e-la be trusted to bring down the other dogs in season. A tremendous gale, with falling and driving snow, was a further discouragement, the snow being very soft. On the 14th, a visit was made to Ar-lang-nuk, the spot where Parry erected his flag-staff, and then to Turton Bay. He found a pile or collection of stones where the flag-staff was deposited, and says: "On removing the snow, which only partially covered the stones, I found an excavated place in the center of the circular pile. I then lifted out several large stones, which had probably been thrown in when the flag- staff had been taken down. Then I came to disintegrated limestone of such small size that one could hold fifty or sixty pieces in one hand. On removing a mass of this, I came to chips and fragmentary pieces of the flag-staff. After digging down two feet, I came to where the limestones were frozen solid, thus preventing any further research downward. * * * Could I have dug down into the S. Ex. 27 20 306 Tlie Team Made Up. iiuarch, isor. frozen mass of limestones, I doul)t not I could have found the bottle containinir the ^vl•itten doeumeut which Parry executed and deposited there. * * * Xhe piles, or collections, of stones about the flag--staff spot are placed in such order as to represent the four cardinal points of the true compass. * * * There is tlie furmw or trench, now evidently just as distinct as when first made from the sea-coast to the flag-staff spot ; — made in dragging the flag- staff from the sea to where it was raised. This furrow, made in the disintegrated limestone, is of rounded form, and from two to four inches in d( -ptli. I was greatly surprised to find this trench so perfect and unmistakable as to its cause." The name of the land at and around this spot is Koo-pra-look-too. While Hall was visiting a place of such historic interest, he was awaitiiiL!' the i-eturn of Oii-e-Ja who had been sent off a few miles to get some of the dogs, but after his return, a heavy gale still prevented the setting out for Repulse Bay. He now gathered his teams, and rising at four o'clock in the morning of the next day, he distrib- uted the remainder of his pi-esents and cut up his large sea-chest to give to the men to make their arrows, speArs, and harpoons. A stake was then driven ddwii, and the natives were called upon to tie to it all the dogs he had purchased, but he had now one cause of complaint — the (tidy one named as to this people, of whom he speaks as among the kindest and ni(»st honest of their race. It was this: One dog was Ijrought, small, earless, and poor; and on its being refused as not the on<- purchased, further compensation was asked for the one which was theu ).rou;.rlii lni\v;ird. Th(^ additional pay was given, and this dog J»ro\((l the l)c>t of tlie team. Iiaviii;_r now succeeded in tlui objcct for whicli this severe journey mareii, 1867.] Betum to tJw Bay. o()7 Imd been made, lie was eager to begin liis return to the bay. But, when entirely ready to leave his encampment a few miles from Ig-loo- lik, he found that Oii-e-la had put on the sled a widow and her child, with all her traps; and he was proof against all expostulation as to the delay on the journey which this must cause. Hall then started with Ook-jnk and JE-nu-men and his family on a kow sled, and, quickly overtaking Ou-e-la, again remonstrated with him, ordering him to leave the widow behind. Succeeding by bribes in inducing the woman to stay, he finally put her oif on the ice, getting the promise of several natives to take care of her return to her friends. But the loss of Ou-e-la^s new wife proved a trouble greater to Hall than to the disap- pointed chief The travel was heavy, the pe-to more than once broke, and some of the dogs were continually straying off; by night an advance of only live miles had been made. The teams were then found to be made up of forty-eight dogs, eighteen of which had been purchased. But as all were not at hand, the whole of the next day was spent in going to find the lost ones. Then, four more of them escaping in the night, Oot-pik went back for them, while the rest of the party pressed on to Ping-it-ka-lik. Here E-nu-men conducted the party to a ridge of limestone, on digging down a foot into which, they found two logs of old walrus, which they lashed on their koiv sledge. From this point he chose a route almost always inshore from that by which Hall and Ou-e-la had gone up to Ig-loo-lik, and on this line he crossed a bay on the west side of Fox Channel, extending fifteen miles to the south- west. Hall had not found this bay on Parry's chart, but did not con- sider this strange, as Parry's was a ^'marine survey only." From this bay he passed into a lake twenty-five miles in length, lat. 68° 45', long. 82° W., on which lake they made their hjlov by the side of a ridge of 3(jy Oa-v-las Cu)i(b(ct. i March, iser. ice exteiuling- as far as tlie eye could reacli. Near it, beneath the siiow, watt-r was i-asilv ol)taiiie(l, and the frozen Jmw, phiced in this, was thaweil in tlnx'e hours. He now exjierienced a renewal of the trials which Ou-e-la had u-ivcn him on his route to Igloo-lik. Repeatedly on that journey he liad sh»»wn a selfish disposition, especially in helping himself most freely to the best of the provision, of which his wife also secretly t«>««]; a large share At Ig-loo-lik, to Hall's disadvantage, Ou-e-Ia had purchased for himself several dogs, and now, on the homeward route, he proved exceedingly careless of Hall's team, while liberally feeding his own. To this he added an increased exhibition of evil temper, the soin-ce of which was probably to be found in his disap- l)oiutnient in not obtaining the widow. He had cordially agreed to go en this i()unle^' for the very purpose of adding to the number of liis wives, lint Hall, when consenting to this, had not anticipated that he Would bring down a family with all their goods. His evil conduct reached its w^orst on the 2 2d, when he took advantage of Hall's sick- ness from continual living on walrus-meat, to feast himself and wdfe mure than once, refused a fair supply of food to either Hall or (i<,t-j)'tl:. and subjected the white man, in his feeble state, to the most menial ser\ices. He ordered him to brinof in the snow-water for drinking, and, with other services, to put the how sledge on top of the igloo wlien it was necessary to keep it from the dogs. The weak state oi the invalid, with the renewed feeling that he w^as in the hands of a savage, indiicc-d hini to submit to these orders. He says in his notes r»f tlie da\. • I 1i;h1 Mrcat i-easoii at times to shoot the savagre down on the Kpot. and know in.t Ik.w h.iig it may be before I shall have to do wi terrible an act to save my own dear life." But he more wisely rcrturved his puni>!mient until they should ivach the ships. iTinrcii, 1S67.J Thf NcH' Disappointment .'*>09 E-nii-men and Oot-piJi cjinglit the same spirit, so far as to iiiako inexcusable delays ; and these were increased by the usual experi- ences of gales which bound Hall a day or more at a time, and to- ward the last of the journey, by the complete giving-out of the Low sledge, on the temperature rising to 1G°. All the dogs were then attached to the large sledge in the midst of a furious snow-drift. They were showing their faintness for want of food by their tails standing straight out, instead of curling over their backs. As the result of all these causes of delay, the speed was never more than three miles per hour, and generally less. On the 24th, however, they had struck the land, from which their course was nearly direct to the head of the bay ; on the 31st, they again sighted the ships. This journey for dogs had cost Hall fifty-two more days of pre- cious time, during which his sufferings appear to have been borne with his usual fortitude. He now found that his proposed journey to King William's Land was again utterly arrested. Two months before, when he had his men seemingly secured, the captains' plea had been that they could not spare the dogs. He had now returned from Ig-loo-lik with his own full team; but the whaling season is open, and he is behind time ; they cannot spare a man. Hall could })unish Ou-e-Ia, as he now did, by seizing all his dogs and holding them until he had given penitent pledges for future good conduct. But it is not surprising that for a number of days he lay sick and almost hopeless in his igloo. His feelings, however, and his relations to the masters of the vessels will be best learned from the following letter, addressed to one of them at this time : My Snow-House ]^]ncamp3ient, Eepidse Bay, April 12, 18C7. My Dear Sir : Your note of tliis date, solicitiuj;- my company on board your vessel to tea this evening, lias been received. I thank you for tliis kindly 310 HalVs Letter Ahout the Men. [Aprii, iser. iT(iuest. lor lt\ it I jiulj;e, if my heart is not aniis.s, that you did not really intend to wound my feeliniis. and do me and the cause I represent the injustice you did on board the Glacier last Friday evening'. Allo^y me to state that I am not aware of e\ er ha\ ing entertained for a moment any thought to injure your feel- ings in any way. The very nature of the mission to which I have devoted the last seven years of my life has led me to do all in my power to get to King Will- iam's Land and its neighhoring lands as soon as possible, and, therefore, I have never sw erved fiom this prineii)le, w hich has been to do all in my power to live on good terms with every man, that I might have his co-operation in accomi)lish- ing the end 1 have in view, to wit. the rescue of some survivor or sur\ivors of Sir .lohn Franklin's Fxpedition, whom I have believed might still be living, and that I might recover some of the journals of that expedition, and otherwise gain most imitortant information relating to the fate of all the missing ones. Obstacle after obstacle has been before me, but perseverance has overcome them all except the last. I have done all, as now seemeth to me, that I could do to remove it. How sorrowfully disappointed ^ill the noble-hearted Mr. Grinuell be, and the thousands of good hearts of our countrymen, and of other portions of the civilized world, when they find that I have been obliged to turnback just when I should, and might well, push on, and quickly finish up the work before me I Believe me, captain, when I tell you that I feel in my own heart that with the renewal of yoiu- warm ci)-operation at once, or in a very few days, I and the l»ivviously-organized sledge party can this spring perform my purposed sledge journey in season to be back here the latter i)art of June ; and that by your thus t iiv.iii the sled. No one had ridden on the march of this day exce]it ihc faithlid cook, Too-koo-li-too, whose occupation allowed li.r little sleep ;it iiiuht. At 8.:')0 a. m., the fifth igloo was made at the west jM.iiit of ( 'ape ka(|\ Pclj\-. At I I' III.. May :t, ilall was (Icljolited 1o see by the aid of his glaiM*, ill' l.oiih- which were deposited the greater part of the May, 1867.] Enticements for Hungry Dogs. 317 stores placed there in 18GG. At noon he had witli great difBculty taken an ''indifferent observation" of the sun, wliich gave for liis lati- tude 67° 50' N, ; a gale with snow had prevailed during the preced- ing twent3^-four hours. His anxiety to complete this journey and set at rest the question of the safety of the cache will be inferred from such incidents as the following: His "medicine" (treatment?) for the snow-blind — i. e., tying up their eyes — had proved a charming success. He polished the icing of his sled-runners by rubbing it on with his bare hands, and found that after the first trial he could by himself easily draw Too-koo-li-too, Frank, Silas, and Peter ; all tliree seated upon a full load. To hurry up the tired and hungry dogs he had adopted several expedients ; among these, sending some of the men ahead, who, with a deer-bone and knife, at one time made strokes as though cutting off meat, and at another cut up small pieces of his Ig-loo-lik sledge and threw them into the air now and then ahead, letting the dogs see that the pieces were how. This experiment succeeded even in the case of a fagged-out animal in the rear when he was transferred to the front ; the poor creature's efforts to get at the much-desired meat were a great incentive to his followers. These devices were practiced at a time when the weather was very thick. At 11.10 p. m., he found himself by the side of the rock near which,, in the previous spring, he had erected a little pile of stones represent- ing Faith, Hope, and Charity, and, to his great satisfaction, on ham- mering loose the stones from his cache, he discovered that all had been unmolested except that a fox had eaten a portion of the oolc- gooh skin which covered the trunk, and that Arctic mice had been busily nibbling at his tent. At midnight, having loaded the sledge with all the stores of the cache, he returned to his igloo, when the 318 The Deposit Changed. tMay,i86r. wli.»l./ i)artv rested until 5 p. m of the next clay. Tlie icing on the sled-runners had proved so solid on the night previous, as to be unin- jured even when the dogs were flying over the rocks of the Cape — or blufl', as he tliinks this point should rather be named, as "it is no cape at all but siniplv a little hill rising above the low snow-clad coast." Hall could not forget the necessity of having a cache certainly awaiting him on the first renewed advance which he could make to- ward Kinir William's Land. It marks an indomitable will and faith in his final success that, although disappointed in the three preceding years, he should again deposit at a distance from him, such valuable stores to await the issues of a fourth twelve month. His purpose at this date ^^'as to leave the greater part of the stores at the first place on the coast where he could find loose stones to cover them ; he felt satisfied they would be safer at such a place than at the Cape, for he had learned that his apprehensions of the Pelly Bay men were well grounded. Happily he found a spot seemingly every way suited for the j>urpose. His notes, with their usual precision, record this location of the deposit: "Cape Weynton, N. 62^ E. (by compass) : Range of hills in which deposit was made running S. 45° E. and N. 45° W. : Deposit made near the face ot hill, thirty-three of my paces from a little pile of stones <>n top of a rock." The I{tli above Oo-gla-ri-your Island, now named by the whale- men, Ilall Island. On the night of the 10th, ice of the thickness of coii»iii(»ii window-glass formed on the pools of water of the open spaces amid tli(^ sea-ice near the shore, although Hall's thermom- eter stooarty. Pat icas the leader, and I felt for my own safety that something must be done to meet so terrible a blow as seemed ready to fall. I appealed to Pat especiallj^ to stop his mutinous talk and conduct. I was alone, though a small distance off were all the Innuits of the tent-village looking upon the scene. Pat was standing in the door of the tent (he and Antoine, when I first went into the tent, were seated in it, but as their rage increased they worked themselves out to be in a circle of the other two), where he was delivering himself of the most rebellious language possible. I made an approach to him, putting my hand up before him, motioning for him to stop. Ik' at once squared himself, doubling up his fists and drawing back in position, as it were, to jump upon and fight me. Failhig to make liim desist without forci- ble means, I thought at first to give him a good drubbing, but knowing Pat to be of a powerful frame and muscle, and that if I did make an attempt I should at once have a party of four upon nje, I demanded of Peter my rifle, which he gave me. I hastened to my tent, laid down the rifle, and seized my Baylie revolver, and went back and faced the leader of the mutinous crowd, and demanded of Pat to know if he would desist in his mutinous conduct ? His reply being still more threatening, I pulled trigger, and in a few minutes he staggered and fell. I walked dbectly, but more as a man then suddenly dreaming, to the front of Papa's tent, where was a crowd of frightened natives, passed the pistol to the hand of Ar-mou, which still had four undischarged loads in it, and then ran back and as- Histed in getting Pat to my tent. I supposed he could not live five minutes, but a Mightier liainl tliaii mine liad stayed the ball from a vital part. July, I86S.] Dcaih of Colemau. 361 The unhappy man, Patrick Coleman, lingered from the 31st of July until the 14tli of the following" month, during the whole of which time every effort Avas made by Hall to save his life by the use of all remedies at his command and by the most careful nursing, in which his other men took their full share. Antoine made a full confession of his having done wrong. The Innuits told Hall they had expected that the four mutinous men, whom he had encountered at the time of shooting one of them, would attack and endeavor to kill him, and that it had been their purpose to run to his rescue. He now participated in the anxious uncertainties felt by his men as to whether any whaling-vessel would visit the bay this year; and, if not, by what possible means he could reach York Factory should his hopes of making a final journey to King William's Land entirely fail him. As far back as the 29th of July (before the mutiny) he had written in his journal : I know not whether I and my company are to leave these regions this fall or not. Most assuredly I have had no doubts but we should. All my expectations and calculations have been to this point; but now as I look out upon Repulse Bay and see it still fast in its ten months' icy chains, I must confess I begin to have doubts. Many times a day I ascend our lookout hill to take long and prolonged looks through my "spy" down to the southeastward, in the direction of the per- petual open water that sweeps through Hurd's Channel and Frozen Strait across to Beach Point, and thence rushes down Eowe's Welcome. No ship there afar off to gladden my sight. It has been my plan that if none should enter Repulse Bay by the 5th of August, I would embark in our boat Sylvia for York Factory. But will it be prudent to attempt the voyage in this boat? I know that Dr. Eae made a successful voyage here from that place, and the next year returned to it. But his boats were large, heavy, and strong, and the Sylvia is of the lightest con- struction possible ; her planks of cedar one-half inch thick only. During the illness of Colemnn, it was found out that at least one of the other four men had said if he could not otherwise get a boat 3G2 Release of the Siirvhnng White Men. [August, ises. he would steal one, and go to York Factory with his fellows. Hall him- self, under the force of circumstances, had gained Ar-mou^s consent to have the Lady Franklin for their use, promising that the Sylvia should be at Ar-moit^s service so long as he should still remain in the country. But on the IGth he was relieved from these anxieties by the sight at anchor of the Ansell Gibbs and the Concordia. The four men were notified that they could make what arrangements they pleased for their return, and they all promptly shipped on these vessels, Lailor, -whom Hall always commends, and on whom he had somewhat counted on to remain another year, shipping last of the party. Hall gave to each a certificate of his having served through the year and his note for the payment due. As for himself, although he found that he coidd make very few purchases from these vessels for his still expected jour- ney to King William's Land, he determined to stay. Mr. Grinnell had sent liim some further supplies, and he would once more depend on his own labors and on the friendly Innuits. The first encouragement which followed this determination was the capture of another whale on the 31st of August. For this the natives were as anxious as himself The blubber was needed for fuel, the skin for food, and the meat chieily for the dogs. When a fine rising of a coveted prize was now seen in the harbor, the native crews of the Sylvia and the Lady Franklin were quick to give chase under Hall's orders, and on tlie Lady Franklin's nearing the whale, Ar-mou splen- di(ll\' tlirew two irons into its flank, but unhappily not until the bow of the boat liad struck the animal a few feet abaft the fins. From the swiftness witli wliicli tlie line ran out, it was clear that the whale had struck for soundings. But suddenly the line ceased to run and the boat began to iii(»v(^ uloiig with great rapidit}', the line still slack; she Augiisil, ISUN. A Second Whale Caj/fund. careened, and was, at last, tlirown completely on her beam ends, the explanation of which was that the whale had rnshed along' with the boat on its back. It was no wonder that at the time every man thought himself lost. But before long the boat righted, the oars on one side being cracked; one of them, destroyed. It was an hour from the first blow until the whale spouted blood and ended the struggle 'Svitli thunder-claps from its broad tail upon the waters." The natives on shore, while watching the fight, went through an cm-koot-wg performance for its successful issue. They aided in hauling the whale up on land, and began their feast from it that night at supper. Two days later, the whole company of men, women, and children, numbering more than fifty, went hard to work making deposits, when the women cut up and carried in their hands masses of the meat; the men dragged or carried on their shoulders 364 Deer-Hunting at Tdlloon. [September, ises. blubber and meat; the children "bolted" pieces of the black skin; and trains of dogs pulled "horse-pieces" up the steep rocks. For cooking- some of the meat, iires of bone and oil were made, the Innuit customs forbidding the gathering of wood at such times for fuel. Dried bones found scattered around were collected in a fire-place, which was only a few stones supporting a kettle, the bones answering the purpose also of a wick, and a very hot and sooty fire being thus kept up. The longest blades of bone of this whale measured seven feet; all were willingly and unanimously given by the natives to Hall. The cache was made at Iwillik. On the 1 2tli of September, a removal was made, with few of the natives, to the west side of Talloon Bay, where they spent the rest of the month and the month following chiefly in deer-hunting. Hall himself on one day shot five deer in five minutes, and Too-koo-li-too became quite a marksman. November 4 a journey was undertaken to Lyon's Inlet to de- termine the location of some places in regard to which Hall had not been satisfied with Parry's chart. His companions were his old friend Papa-teiv-a, with one of his wives and a child ; his team was made up of ten dogs. On the 12th, the part}- were at the head of Haviland Bay; on the 14th, Ross Bay was crossed, and on the 17th an encampment made on the south shore of a peninsula to which the natives gave the same name with their northern settlement — Ig-loo-lik. Here Hall busied himself with the surve}' of the coasts and an exami- nation of the channel called by Parry the Rush of Waters. Visiting the site of a stone pile spoken of by Captain Parry as put up for de- ])0sitiiiga memorandum in tlie absence of Mr. Sherer, one of the ofiicers of liis Second expcflitiuii (1821), Hall fi)nnd it still undisturbed. Re- ivoTcnibcr, 1868.] Joumcy to LijoyCs Inlet. 365 maining for some days in this locality, he discovered and surve}'ed a creek called by the Innuits Nee-bar-bic. He then learned that there was another bay on the east side of Lyon's Inlet corresponding in lati- tude to Parry's Norman Creek, and was thus able to understand some difficulties. Parry had erroneously given the Innuit name of his Nor- man Creek as Neeb-wa-wik, the y)ronunciation of which is close to that of Nee-bar-bic. When Hall had heard of this last creek from the Innuits he had taken it to be Parry's Norman Creek, and could not understand that the distinguished navigator had placed this ien miles out of position ; it was the application of the Innuit name only which was wrong. He was gratified by the discovery of a new creek in an inlet which Lyon had so thoroughly examined that he thought no arm or branch had been overlooked ; but believed that the approach had been hidden from these officers by a high island. When the party wished to encamp at night on the 14th of the month, they took possession of a newly-deserted igloo. It was dark at 4 p. m., when they entered, but soon afterward an Innuit known as Tom came in with his child from one of his deer-meat caches. He brought the news that Ar-tung-iin — the man who at Ig-loo-lik had once exchanged names with Hall — was at the point of death in a vil- lage a little northward. Hall visited him the next day, but found that the poor consumptive was past saving, and was insisting that his son should end his sufferings by stabbing him or by shooting him with an arrow, against which Hall's earnest interposition was ineffectual. The igloo which he had been occupying had been built by Ar-tung- un^s son, that he might remove to it instantly on his father's death, and so avoid the loss of several days of mourning. The day follow- ing he hung his father. 366 Injured Instruments. [Norember, ises. The note-books of this journey are filled up with the minutest details of the visits, of the observations attempted, of their computa- tions, and of the perplexities into which Hall found himself driven by the severity of the cold, the changing season, and the injuries renewed to his instruments, preventing the accuracy he so much desired for his work. The notes of the night of the 15th of the month say: Tried my best to make observations for latitude (►f Jupiter, but though not a cloud in the heavens, yet the stars shine dimly and fine snow is falling. Usu- ally the sky is called hazy when it is really diffused aurora. Again, on the 20th : Nothing causes me greater regret than the poor instruments I have in the way of sextants. At nine this evening the heavens became clear, and I tried my best to get some good observations of Jupiter, though he had passed the meridian. By several observations I could determine the latitude, but that only could I make. The silvering on the glasses is all cracked by the frost of several winters of the North. On the 28th, the moon at 8 p. m. was covered with a hazy atmosphere, but was gloriously surrounded by several circles: the outer one of rose color, then a lesser one of pea-green, then lilac, and then a knob of radiant light like the sun's. The outer circle was about S*^ in diameter. His pocket-chronometer having provokingh^ stopped, he devised a plan for detecting a repetition of the fault; this was to place the chro- nometer in his hood and next his right ear. The fob was made by one of the Innuit women out of rabbit and deer skin. From the time he rose till he retired, the instrument lay next his ear as in the safest and most convenient place considering the calls upon it. When keeping it next his heart, it was warm and safe from any sudden jar. ^ November, 1S68.] DiscoveHes Mcide in 1868, 3G7 The exposures to which lie had been agam subjected on his jour- ney held him close for a day or more in his igloo, where he wrote on the 25th : " Snatches only of sleep have I had for several nights. In noting down my work as well as in taking observations, I have had my right thumb frost-bitten, and that, when I did not know it." The aurora of that date, the finest of all he had witnessed, he could not attempt to describe. The 29th of the month saw him back in his old quarters on the bay. In a letter to the President of the American Geographical Society, written after his return to the United States, reviewing the geographical explorations he had made on the two journeys of this year, he claims the discoveries of a new inlet, lat. G7° N., long. 84^ 30' W., a few miles north of Norman Creek; a bay on the west side of Fox Channel, lat. 69° N., long. 81^ 30' W.; a lake twenty-five miles in length, lat. 68° 45' N., long. 82° W. ; and a second lake, in lat. 69° 35', fift}^ miles in length, with its two outlets, the lake running par- allel with Fury and Hecla Strait. Also, two islands : one northwest of the west end of that strait and the other at its east end. What he considered accomplished of the most importance geographically, was the completion of the coast-line around the northwest side of Melville Peninsula to Cape Crozier. The bay now discovered was said to have an entrance from Barrow S , lat. 73° 43' N., long. 83° W., and to extend very nearly in a southerly direction to about the 71st degree north latitude. The natives had assured him that at times they killed in it five whales in a day, and that it abounded in the smooth-back {Balcena mysticetus) and in narwhals and seals. It was free from ice every summer, and promised to be of as much value to whalers as Cumberland Sound. SGS Winter Quarters at TaJloo)/. [December, 1S6S. Eeturning from the last of these surveys, made as has been seen after the full setting in of the cold of November, Hall had before him a period of four months to be passed through before a sledge trip for the Franklin Records could be renewed. The first half of this period was spent in rest and amid the winter festivities of the natives ; the second iialf was a time of the severest labor and fatigue in preparing provisions for his next and last journey before returning to the United States. January, i>s«9.i Tile NoowooJc Nativcs at Iwillik. 369 The villag-e near wliicli he quartered himself now contained one hundred and twenty inhabitants, a number to wliich it had suddenly risen by the coming in of some from Lyon's Inlet, who had heard of the whale captures. December and January were spent by this people in a round of amusements, feastings, and gynmastics. A low kind of gambling, spoken of as " whirling a trigger," was supplemented by renew^ed an-'koo-ting jjerformances, all of which were broken in upon at times by long and weary journeys through snow and ice to renew from their deposits exhausted, supplies of food. The natives, as was to be expected, were often very improvident, voraciously consuming a load of as many as five deer in an hour after bringing them in, and then suffering from absolute want. On the first day of the new }'ear, the fifth which Hall had now spent in the North, he entertained at din- ner all those who had been with him through his first winter at Noo-wook. Ten of the forty-two had died, and but two children had been born. He was aided by the natives during the w^inter more fully than ever before, no alienations such as have been sometimes referred to again occurring; but his chief difficulty seems to have been an excess of cordiality on their part, which broke in upon him while working up the observations made on his trip to Lyon's Inlet. His igho was sometimes filled with men, women, and children, keeping up a constant jabbering, humming, crying, and begging ; noises which made him say that if he could have some retirement, it would be the blessing of an earthly heaven. They often gave him further disquiet by unscru- pulously laying hands on his own stores — never asking leave. Fapa Tew-a, on one of the bleak days of January, drew for him, S. Ex. 27 24 370 Pa-pa^s Sketch of Pond's Bay. [January, ISGO. in his igloo^ the accompan3'ing sketch of Pond's Bay, Hall writing down fi-om dictation the names corresponding to Pa-pa's numbers. SKETCH OF POND'S BAY, DRAWN BY THE INNUIT PAPA. 1. Too-e-joo. L'. Oo-gla. '^. Discharging glacier. 4. 4. Too-loo-yer. 5. Grounded icebergs. G. Sliar too. 7. Ing-nnt-ta-lik. 8. Large and high grounded iceberg. 9. Ou-kee-lee-ark-tung. {The penin- sula.) 10. Ou-u-ee-too. {Glacier.) 11. A bay abounding in whales. 12. A roof-like hill, on an extensive plain. 13. Koo-ook-ju-a. {A very high water- fall; tenting -place there.) 14. E-te-u-yer. 15. Two remarkable rocks. 16. Too-noo-nee. 17. Kung-e-er-a. 18. Neer-ker-oon. 19. See-er-wok-too-u. 20. Too-arn. 21. Ung-raa. 22. Kik-kik-te-ting-nim. 23. Kik-kik-tuk-jua. 24. Im-me-le. {LalxC on this isle.) 25. E-e-la. {Something Mice a windoio in mountainside.) 20. A head of whalebone just below low tide. 27. Kim-e-big. 28. Too-loo-karn. {Four isles.) 29. Kook-win-ar-loo. 30. Toong-win. 31. Kin-e-loo-kun. 32. Ee-we-shar. 32. Ee-ark-ju-a. {The point; a very high mountain and the wind heard con- stantly roaring at its top. 33. Small island. From natives of the inlet he received some singular accounts of minerals found there. Native iron in great abundance. Stones that are of very fine grain, look pretty, and stand upright; the same being long, slender, and like round sticks of wood ; some elastic, that is, will bend. Also a great many pretty stones that are transparent, just as clear as crystal, like the sun-glass given to Ar-lca-too. From the desciiption of some of these stones, or I should say of some other kinds which are also like glass in appearance, I cannot well comi)reliend what they be, for JLr- Ica-too says, as the sun is shining on them, if the hand shadows them, away they go down in the ground, appearing to act as though alive. By great carefulness Innuitshave succeeded in catching now and then some of these wonderful stones, sk?;t(h of PONDS BAY l)yth(^ IiniTiii Vixi^a l)i*awii ill Jan. 1869 [■ the above, I have looked into the Admiralty Manual of Sci- entific Inquiry and Ibund the following : " With regard to dimorphism, or the crystallization of the same chemically composed substances in diiferent forms * * * , right rhomboidal crystals of sulphate of nickel exposed in a vase to the sun were found changed in the interior without passing through the liquid state into octahedrons with a square base, the exterior crust of the original crys- tal retaining its first form." (Pp. 251 and 252, edition of 1851.) That there is something peculiar in these crystals of Admiralty Inlet that makes all the Innuits there, and all distant lunuits who have heard about them, think they are sometimes as though alive, I do not doubt from the deeply -inter- esting account given by Ar-Tta-too. Early in the month of January the natives renewed their seaHng on the ice of the baj^, and Hall's party again fixed their headquarters at Talloon, in a commo^lious igloo built on a lakelet, where a well of pure water was easily made near the bed-platform of the hut. The igloo was made comfortable for eleven inhabitants. It was carefully- lined with skins hung within five or six inches of the snow- walls, mak- ing inside of it a tupik. This main building was an oval 22 feet long, 13 wide, and 8 feet high, and was connected by a tooh-soo (passage-way). It had six store-liouse huts. The floor of the passage-way, as usual, was lower in the middle than either at the doorway or at the entrance of the main building. A door of hard snow for each store-house was fitted into a casemate of the same " pure white marble." In these quarters the chief business of February and of March was the drying of venison over the native lamps — a slow and very laborious process. While this was going on, the door-ways were closed, and five lamps whose united length of wick was fifty-six inches, were kept blazing day and night, consuming 78 pounds of blubber a week. 3 7 'J Preparation of Pemmican. marvu, isao. Bv coiitiiiuino" tlie work nearly every day, 170 pounds of thoroughly (h-icd meat, l'(\u'.\\ to (J-SO pounds of the fresh, were obtained. This, mixed witli (ood-xoo was good pemmican.* For a sufficient sup})ly of food for the dogs on the journe}^ Hall was soon to undertake, he was dependent on the natives, who with great difficulty caught for him a ^\ ah-us far out on the ice. His liealth was better than at any previous time of his residence in the North; he Jirirr had a touch of scurvy. His thorougli adoption of the Innuit dress fully protected his person, so that, with the exception of slight frost-bites on his face, he sustained no bodily injury from severe exposures. He took exercise only when necessary to procure supplies or when inclination prompted; — never for the sake of exercise purely: but he found his strength and power of endurance to increase, as is shown by his readily walking off for some * Wlu'ii Hall left tlio United States in 18o4 he contracted for r,00 pounds desiccated beef incorporated with 500 pounds of beef-suet tallow and put up in tin cans of 25 pounds each. He liad now learned tlie value of this iieunnican in days bonleriug on starvation, on which he had sonie- tiuu's fallen. Hence his great labor at the date of setting out linally on so long a journey- In this connection it may be of interest to refer to the provision made by the distinguished Arctic explorer Richardson when setting out on his boat voyage through Rupert's Land in 1H51. The most amjile means for the preparation of full supplies was in his hands. He describes it follows: "A rouiKl or bullock of beef of the l)est ([uality having be«'n cut into thin steaks, from which the fat and the meml)ranous i)arts were pared away, was dried in a malt-kiln over an oak-fire, until its moisture was entirely dissipated and the libre of the meat became frial)le. It was then ground in a mall -mil!, when it resendjled tinely-grated meat. IJeing next mixed with nearly an i-ipial weight (if mclttMl hcrf suet, or lard, the preparation of i)lain ]>emmican was complete; but to icndci- it muic agrci-ahle to the unaccustomed palate a jiroportiou of the best Zante eniiants was aihlfd to pari of it, ami i)art was sweetened with sugar. 15oth these kinds were much approved of in the sequti liy the con.sumers. but morr rspctinlly that to which the sugar h;id liem ailih'd. After the ingredients were well incorporated by stirring, they were transferred to tin canisters, capable of containing 85 ]»ounds each; and having been firndy rammed down and allowed to contract further by cooling, the air was completely expelled ami excluded by filling the canister to the ))rim with melted lard through a small hole left in the end, wliich was then covered with a piece of tin and soldered ui>. "The meat in drying loses nutre than iluee-fourtiis of its original v.eight; :?5,(!51 jiounds were reduced to about 8,0(10. * The natives of the Northwest dry their venison by exposing thin slices to the heat of the sun on a stage inider which a small lire is ke])t, more for the iiiir]>ose of driving away the llics hy t lu- smoke ilmn for ]ironioliiig exsiccal iou, and then they ])ound it iM^tween two stones on a bison-hide. In tjijs inocess the pounded meat is contami- nated by a greater or smaller admixt ure of liair or ol Ik r inii)urities." iTiai-ch, I^s«!>.| Readiness for Another Sledge Journey. 373 distance in a rue-rad-dy (liarness) with a sled-load of 429 pounds, the sled-shoeing- of which was iced moss. Healthful occupation of the mind, devotion to the work still before him, and a continued friendly intercourse with the natives and participation in their amusements and hunts were, doubtless, the additional causes of his freedom from sickness and casualty during- this season, as they had been through the preceding four winters. By the 21st of March he had nearly completed his preparations for a start. To secure dogs and their food, three trips were made inland and two to a settlement on the ice; requiring in all a journey of 170 miles. Nearly six hundred balls were molded over a coal-fire in a small stove belonging to Ar-moii. The stores which he was to leave behind were placed in charge of his Innuit friends to whom presents were made, the packages of which were each labeled with a tag having on it the picture of an animal, as a help to Ar-moii's memory in deliver- ing them to each friend. All appear to have been at this time cor- dial well-wishers of his success, a goodly number of them being pro- fessedly ready to go with him.* *They were probably again ready ior a change. The two })recc(liiig months had been to them a season of unusual suffering from cold, and at times from Avant. But few seals had been caught. The severity of the cold had been experienced throughout a fearful gale in January, lasting through ten consecutive days; and in February there was the unprecedented occurrence of a burying up of their snovv' village, closely endangering the lives of all the Innuits. In one of the huts, a child, which had rolled a little way out from its mother's sleeping-robe, froze into ice. The Journal of January 25 had read : "Still another day (the seventh) of the severest storm I have ever witnessed. All day yesterday, the wind was but one degree less than a hurricane force ; and it was with great danger that I ventured out from the tooJcsoo, to visit my Wind Indicator, though the distance is not more than 20 yards. The storm is right abeam, and the only way to keep myself erect is by strong bracing against and reclining on the v,-ind; yet with all this precaution, now and then the wind will lift and drive me tumbling and rolling like a drunken man. It has been so charged too with