Parecay Rae ea Es stats eene yi iis?) Wipe nah reba v a NARRATIVE oe OF THE SURVEYING VOYAGES OF HIS MAJESTY’S SHIPS ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE, BETWEEN THE YEARS 1826 AND 1836, DESCRIBING Sie EXAMINATION OF THE SOUTHERN SHORES CF SOUTH AMERICA, AND THE BEAGLE’S CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE GLOBE. LONDCGN: HENRY COLBURN, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1839. LONDON: Printed by J. L. Cox and Sons, 75, Great Queen Street, Lincoln’s-Inn Fields. VOLUME I. PROCEEDINGS OF RH heel i LRS lk x PE D1 T1.0N, 1826—1830, UNDER THE COMMAND OF CAPTAIN P. PARKER KING, R.N., F.R.S. t pun, : =) i aay iv he wMipwadit, tt wh cs TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL OF MINTO, G.C.B., FIRST LORD COMMISSIONER OF THE ADMIRALTY. MY LORD; I have the honour of dedicating to your lordship, as Head of the Naval Service, this narrative of the Surveying Voyages of the Adventure and Beagle, between the years 1826 and 1836. Originated by the Board of Admiralty, over which Viscount Melville presided, these voyages _ have been carried on, since 1830, under his lord- ship’s successors in office. Captain King has authorized me to lay the results of the Expedition which he commanded, from 1826 to 1830, before your lordship, united to those of the Beagle’s subsequent voyages. I have the honour to be, MY LORD, Your lordship’s obedient servant, ROBERT FITZ-ROY. ee 3 er ret cr het. See may sDacgye! ee alt Asie * qithebiol way ef paiisoibob to 4 3 TGeereis sate plea tweets fon Gries , faskait ‘Leave Bis (id ~ toe ape he ake Bs and Siw ait aie Ura walt a “oxo Vil mhh Yo his sett ad! 1d. 5B colt, Anbhegg aii bi, he Asi nd las RP ea ae Pair RD PREFACE. In this Work, the result of nine years’ voyaging, partly on coasts little known, an attempt has been made to combine giving general information with the paramount object—that of fulfilling a duty to the Admiralty, for the benefit of Seamen. Details, purely technical, have been avoided in the narrative more than I could have wished; but some are added in the Appendix to each volume: and in a nautical memoir, drawn up for the Admiralty, those which are here omitted will be found. There are a few words used frequently in the following pages, which may not at first sight be familiar to every reader, therefore I need hardly apologize for saying that, although the great Portuguese navigator’s name was Magalhaens—it is generally pronounced as if written Magellan:—that the natives of Tierra del Fuego are commonly called Fuegians ;— and that Childe is thus accented for reasons given in page 384 of the second volume. In the absence of Captain King, who has entrusted to me the care of publishing his share of this work, I may have overlooked errors which he would have detected. Being hurried, and unwell, while attending to the printing of his volume, I was not able to do it justice. xX PREFACE. It may be a subject of regret, that no paper on the Botany of Tierra del Fuego is appended to the first volume. Captain King took great pains in forming and preserving a botanical collection, aided by a person embarked solely for that purpose. He placed this collection in the British Museum, and was led to expect that a first-rate botanist would have examined and described it ; but he has been disappointed. In conclusion, I beg to remind the reader, that the work is unavoidably of a rambling and very mixed character; that some parts may be wholly uninteresting to most readers, though, perhaps, not devoid of interest to all; and that its publication arises solely from a sense of duty. ROBERT FITZ-ROY. London, March 1839. INTRODUCTION. In 1825, the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty directed two ships to be prepared for a Survey of the Southern Coasts of South America ; and in May, of the following year, the ADVENTURE and the BEAGLE were lying in Plymouth Sound, ready to carry the orders of their Lordships into execution. These vessels were well provided with every necessary, and every comfort, which the liberality and kindness of the Admiralty, Navy Board, and officers of the Dock-yards, could cause to be furnished. On board the Adventure, a roomy ship, of 330 tons burthen, without guns,* lightly though strongly rigged, and very strongly built, were— Puitiie Parker Kine, Commander and Surveyor, Senior Officer of the Expedition. Ni COG RMN os a eyes Lieutenant. B. AINSworTH ......... Master. PRY OV ee Surgeon. * Exeepting one for signals. Xil INTRODUCTION, G. Row.ert ............ Purser. [Spe lish: C)% Ge anton JBC ner Mate J.C. WickuHam......... Mate. De RAID RAND) 2oha cceecisate Mate TuiGRAaVEs .) gases epee Mate and Assistant Surveyor. G. Harrison ......... Mate. E. WILLTAMS:......02-.- Second Master. Sgr AM seae date pq stesiette Assistant Surgeon. W. W. WILson ...... Midshipman. A: MILLAR. «icp ccesccecne Master’s Assistant. A. MELLERSH ......... Volunteer Ist Class. Ss Russepety O85. 0.5.2. Volunteer 2d Class. G. HopeGskKINn ......... Clerk. J... ANDERSON, «... 0000-000 Botanical Collector. Gunner Boatswain and Carpenter. Serjeant and fourteen Marines; and about forty Seamen and Boys. In the Beagle, a well-built little vessel, of 235 tons, rigged as a barque, and carrying six guns, were— PRINGLE STOKES ...... Commander and Surveyor. Hi. TER WES) cscsaeatasm rete Lieutenant. W.G. Sxyrine ...... Lieut. and Assist. Surveyor. S. SG. Fig “),.ccackcese Master. E. BOWEN % 2.0: +-scese Surgeon Se ATR ED occ tot sete 2 Purser J. RK Ase.ee tose ree Mate. . VNBE Voy epee -eernee Assistant Surgeon. J, a EOREB cceccusences Midshipman. He’. DON sneer Volunteer Ist Class. WNTONES 2. a5 not eencces Volunteer 2d Class. J. Macpova.t ......... Clerk. Carpenter. Serjeant and nine Marines ; and about forty Seamen and Boys. INTRODUCTION. Xiil In the course of the voyage, several changes occurred among the officers, which it may be well to mention here. In September, 1826, Lieutenant Hawes inva- lided: and was succeeded by Mr. R. H. Sholl, the senior mate in the Expedition. In February, 1827, Mr. Ainsworth was unfortu- nately drowned; and, in his place, Mr. Williams acted, until superseded by Mr.S.8. Flinn, of the Beagle. Lieutenant Cooke invalided in June, 1827 ; and was succeeded by Mr. J. C. Wickham. In the same month Mr. Graves received infor- mation of his promotion to the rank of Lieutenant. Between May and December, 1827, Mr. Bowen and Mr. Atrill invalided; besides Messrs. Lunie, Jones, and Macdouall: Mr. W. Mogg joined the Beagle, as acting Purser; and Mr. D. Braily, as volunteer of the second class. Mr. Bynoe acted as Surgeon of the Beagle, after Mr. Bowen left, until December, 1828. In August, 1828, Captain Stokes’s lamented vacancy was temporarily filled by Lieutenant Sky- ring ; whose place was taken by Mr. Brand. Mr. Flinn was then removed to the Adventure ; and Mr. A. Millar put into his place. XIV INTRODUCTION, In December, 1828, the Commander-in-chief of the Station (Sir Robert Waller Otway) superseded the temporary arrangements of Captain King, and appointed a commander, lieutenant, master, and surgeon to the Beagle. Mr. Brand then invalided, and the lists of officers stood thus— Adventure (1828-30). Parttre Parker Kine, Commander and Surveyor, Senior Officer of the Expedition. a Gama ies te Lieut. and Assist. Surveyor. J.C. WickHAM ...... Lieutenant. SiGe NIGIINING “coeneipseur ole Master. eed ARN easter eastern Surgeon. G. Row.etTt ............ Purser. G. Harrison ......... Mate. W. W. WItsow......... Mate. E. WinLIAMS............ Second Master. I 3 ae eee ee Assistant Surgeon. A. Meuuersn .......... Midshipman. ACE TIGAC. cee iemeetee Master’s Assistant. S50) eo1 25 A SSS Bee Volunteer 2d Class. G. Hopeskin ......... Clerk. J. ANDERSON ..........¢. Botanical Collector. Gunner Boatswain and Carpenter. Serjeant and fourteen Marines: and about fifty* Seamen and Boys. Beagle (1828-30). Rosert Firz-Roy ... Commander and Surveyor. W.G. Sxyrine ...... Lieut. and Assist. Surveyor. J MRM. Tob io aL AE Lieutenant. IM. MURRAY 22.0502 c.se Master. * Twelve additional seamen having been ordered, by the Admiralty, for the Adelaide schooner. INTRODUCTION. XV J. WILSON 2.00.25. 20508 Surgeon. W . MoGe §,...p.co- 0.0 (Acting) Purser. Se ISR Hen se ag ain - mae Mate. PESO Teias occ « vsits asin Assistant Surgeon. Peli STORES vos: sescrans Midshipman. ara dady Carpenter. Ds BRagny |. .sanacmaugeaige Volunteer 2d Class. J. MEGGET.............4. Clerk. Serjeant and nine Marines : and about forty Seamen and Boys. In June, 1829, Lieutenant Mitchell joined the Adventure ; and in February, 1830, Mr. A. Millar died very suddenly :—and very much regretted. The following Instructions were given to the Senior Officer of the Expedition. ‘< By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, &c. ‘«¢ Whereas we think fit that an accurate Survey should be made of the Southern Coasts of the Peninsula of South America, from the southern entrance of the River Plata, round to Childe; and of Tierra del Fuego ; and whereas we have been induced to repose confidence in you, from your conduct of the Surveys in New Holland; we have placed you in the command of His Majesty’s Surveying Vessel the Adventure; and we have directed Captain Stokes, of His Majesty’s Survey- ing Vessel the Beagle, to follow your orders. ‘“‘ Both these vessels are provided with all the xv INTRODUCTION. means which are necessary for the complete execu- tion of the object above-mentioned, and for the health and comfort of their Ships’ Companies. You are also furnished with all the information, we at present possess, of the ports which you are to survey ; and nine Government Chronometers have been em- barked in the Adventure, and three in the Beagle, for the better determination of the Longitudes. ‘“« You are therefore hereby required and directed, as soon as both vessels shall be in all respects ready, to put to sea with them ; and on your way to your ulterior destination, you are to make, or call at, the following places, successively ; namely ; Madeira : Teneriffe : the northern point of St. Antonio, and the anchorage at St. Jago; both in the Cape Verd Islands: the Island of Trinidad, in the Southern Atlantic: and Rio de Janeiro: for the purpose of ascertaining the differences of the longitudes of those several places. « At Rio de Janeiro, you will receive any supplies you may require; and make with the Commander- in-chief, on that Station, such arrangements as may tend to facilitate your receiving further supplies, in the course of your Expedition. ‘«« After which, you are to proceed to the entrance of the River Plata, to ascertain the longitudes of the Cape Santa Maria, and Monte Video: youare then to proceed to survey the Coasts, Islands, and Straits ; from Cape St. Antonio, at the south side INTRODUCTION. XVil of the River Plata, to Chilée; on the west coast of America; in such manner and order, as the state of the season, the information you may have re- ceived, or other circumstances, may induce you to adopt. «¢ You are to continue on this service until it shall be completed; taking every opportunity to commu- nicate to our Secretary, and the Commander-in- Chief, your proceedings: and also, whenever you may be able to form any judgment of it, where the Commander-in-Chief, or our Secretary, may be able to communicate with you. ‘“‘ In addition to any arrangements made with the Admiral, for recruiting your stores, and provisions; you are, of course, at liberty to take all other means, which may be within your reach, for that essential purpose. ** You are to avail yourself of every opportunity of collecting and preserving Specimens of such objects of Natural History as may be new, rare, or interesting ; and you are to instruct Captain Stokes, and all the other Officers, to use their best diligence in increasing the Collections in each ship: the whole of which must be understood to belong to the Public. . «In the event of any irreparable accident happen- ing to either of the two vessels, you are to cause the officers and crew of the disabled vessel to be b XVill INTRODUCTION, removed into the other, and with her, singly, to proceed in prosecution of the service, or return to England, according as circumstances shall appear to require ; understanding that the officers and crews of both vessels are hereby authorized, and required, to continue to perform their duties, according to their respective ranks and stations, on board either vessel to which they may be so removed. Should, unfortunately, your own vessel be the one disabled, you are in that case to take the command of the Beagle: and, in the event of any fatal accident hap- pening to yourself; Captain Stokes is hereby au- thorized to take the command of the Expedition ; either on board the Adventure, or Beagle, as he may prefer ; placing the officer of the Expedition who may then be next in seniority to him, in com- mand of the second vessel: also, in the event of your inability, by sickness or otherwise, at any period of this service, to continue to carry the Instructions into execution, you are to transfer them to Captain Stokes, or to the surviving officer then next in command to you, who is hereby required to execute them, in the best manner he can, for the attainment of the object in view. “When you shall have completed the service, or shall, from any cause, be induced to give it up; you will return to Spithead with all convenient expedi- tion; and report your arrival, and proceedings, to our Secretary, for our information. INTRODUCTION. X1X t ‘““Whilst on the South American Station, you are to consider yourself under the command of the Admiral of that Station; to whom we have expressed our desire that he should not interfere with these orders, except under peculiar neces- sity. ‘«¢ Given under our hands the 16th of May 1826. (Signed) ‘“ MELVILLE. “ G. COCKBURN. “To Phillip P. King, Esq., Commander of His Majesty’s Surveying Vessel Adventure, at Plymouth. “¢ By command of their Lordships. (Signed) “J.W. Croker.” On the 22d of May, 1826, the Adventure and Beagle sailed from Plymouth; and, in their way to Rio de Janeiro, called successively at Madeira, Teneriffe, and St. Jago. Unfavourable weather prevented a boat being sent ashore at the northern part of San Antonio; but observations were made in Terrafal Bay, on the south-west side of the island: and, after crossing the Equator, the Trade-wind hung so much to the southward, that Trinidad could not be approached. without a sacrifice of time, which, it was consi- dered, might be prejudicial to more important objects of the Expedition. Both ships anchored at Rio de Janeiro on the b 2 XX INTRODUCTION. 10th of August, and remained there until the 2d of October, when they sailed to the River Plata. In Maldonado,* their anchors were dropped on the 13th of the same month ; and, till the 12th of November, each vessel was employed on the north side of the river, between Cape St. Mary and Monte Video. * On the north side of the river Plata. DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER > FOR PLACING THE PLATES. VOLUME I. Map of South America ne a ot at AC Loose. Strait of Magalhaens .- ae Be sc Ae fe Loose. Patagonian «. ee AE ae .- .- - Frontispiece. Monte Video .. St +. : ee . .-to face page 1 Distant View of Mount Sarmiento (with two other views) aie 26 Curious Peak—Admiralty Sound (with other views) at Fy 52 Patagonian ‘toldo’ and tomb He os -< oe Ac 94 Monte Video Mole .. a ds o ee . -- 105 Rio de Janeiro oe 106 Fuegian Wigwams at fous Hurting, i in the M eye Clsanel 126 - Monte Video—Custom-House He Be we sie mee a) tcf Coreovado Mountain .. ss ae Be ae ne ao 88 Mount Sarmiento aA ae ais ae Ae Ae aie We Oe San Carlos de Childe .. Ae ae S6 Be Go ie ac, Breast Ploughing in Chil6e .. oe ac se sc joes tell Point Arena—Chilée (with other views) .. ae 300 South West opening of Cockburn Channel (with + views of Heal lands) oe 3 es ae 56 ale .. 407 Wollaston Island, near Gig Horn ae ae -- 433 Chart of a part of South America, by Captain P. P. Bigs -- 463 Note.—The loose Plates are to be folded into pockets in the covers of the volumes. 2ee hae: viady a gti i gies awond Ae) iqatiaert «3 if ayaq gost or. (eesti? out ony asin) ota me ‘0! hie “* ial oe : . wale ee wes IstandO colnlrgalh, om nt eoodial ago is 4 ala) > ana ool. mah CONTENTS. VOLUME I. CHAPTER I. Departure from Monte Video—Port Santa Elena—Geologi- cal remarks—Cape Fairweather—Non-existence of Chalk —Natural History—Approach to Cape Virgins, and the Strait of Magalhaens (or Magellan).............scseeseeseeees CHAPTER II. Enter the Strait of Magalhaens (or Magellan), and anchor off Cape Possession—First Narrow—Gregory Bay—Pata- gonian Indians— Second Narrow — Elizabeth Island — Freshwater Bay—Fuegian Indians—Arrival at Port Famine CHAPTER III. Prepare the Beagle, and a decked boat (the Hope) for sur- veying the Strait—Beagle sails westward, and the Hope towards the south-east—Sarmiento’s Voyage—and des- cription of the colony formed by him at Port Famine— Steamer Duck—Large trees—Parroquets—Mount Tarn— Barometrical observations—Geological character—Report Of the’ Hope's’ Crawse Ais AIT. OL ce cee ilven seeds onae ovoaeae CHAPTER IV. Deer seen—Hope sails again—Eagle Bay—Gabriel Channel —‘ Williwaws ’—Port Waterfall — Natives — Admiralty Sound—Gabriel Channel—Magdalen Channel—Hope re- turns to Port Famine—San Antonio—Lomas Bay—Loss of boat—Master and two seamen drowned ........ss000c00+ PAGE 26 Xxll CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. PAGE Lieutenant Sholl arrives—Beagle returns—Loss of the Saxe Coburg sealer—Captain Stokes goes to Fury Harbour to save her Crew—Beagle’s proceedings—Bougainville’s me- morial—Cordova’s memorial—Beagle’s danger—Difficul- ties—Captain Stokes’s boat-cruise—Passages—Natives— Dangerous service—Western entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens—Hope’s cruise—Prepare to return to Monte 1 pts so eer Oc ot So PEE een 65 CHAPTER VI. Trees—Leave Port Famine—Patagonians—Gregory Bay— Bysante— Maria—Falkner’s account of the Natives— Indians seen on the borders of the Otway Water, in 1829 —Maria visits the Adventure—Religious ceremony—Pata- gonian Encampment—Tomb of a Child—Women’s em- ployment—Children—Gratitude of a Native—Size of Patagonians—Former accounts of their gigantic height— Character — Articles for barter—Fuegians living with Patagonians—Ships sail—Arrive at Monte Video and Rio det Janeinorss. Wasi tcncesiaccencstesmcah ete sce nense den ameenacecee ane 84 CHAPTER VII. Leave Rio de Janeiro — Santos — S# Catharina — Monte Video—Purchase the Adelaide schooner, for a Tender to the Adventure—Leave Monte Video—Beagle goes to Port Desire—Shoals off Cape Blanco—Bellaco Rock—Cape Virgins—Possession Bay—First Narrow—Race—Gregory Bay—View—Tomb—Traffic with Natives—Cordial meet- ing—Maria goes on board—Natives intoxicated—Laredo Bay—Port Famine s.np- qacsceop apy eye coe. ocesecrenssaee nen 106 CHAPTER VIII. Find that the Cutter had been burned—Anxiety for the Bea- gle—Uxbridge Sealer—Beagle arrives—Her cruise—Bel- laco Rock—San Julian—Santa Cruz—Gallegos—Adeona CONTENTS. XX1il PAGE —Death of Lieutenant Sholl—Adelaide sails—Supposed Channel of San Antonio—Useless Bay—Natives—Port San Antonio—Humming-birds—Fuegians— Beagle sails —Sarmiento — Roldan — Pond — Whales —Structure — Seenery-—Port-Gallantis). sie. s0s 0a sevens itis. Wap ndekes devs 118 CHAPTER IX. Detention in Port Gallant — Humming-birds in snow showers—Fuegians—Geological remarks—Canoes—Car- ving—Birds— Fish—Shag Narrows— Glaciers— Avalan- ches—Natives—Climate— Winter setting in—Adelaide loses a boat—Floods—Lightning —Scurvy— Adelaide’s survey—Bougainville Harbour—Indians cross the Strait, and visit Port Famine—Sealing vessels sail—Scurvy in- creases—Adelaide sent for guanaco meat—Return of the Beagle—Captain Stokes very ill—Adelaide brings meat from the Patagonians—Death of Captain Stokes............ 133 CHAPTER X. Account of the Beagle’s cruise—Borja Bay—Cape Quod— Stuart Bay— Cape Notch—Remarks on weather, and errors of Chart—Evangelists—Santa Lucia—Madre de Dios—Gulf of Trinidad—Port Henry—Puma’s track— Humming-birds—Very bad weather—Campana Island— Dangers—Gale—Wet—Sick—Santa Barbara—Wager’s beam—Wigwams—Guaineco Islands—Cape Tres Montes —St. Paul—Port Otway—Hoppner Sound—Cape Raper 154 CHAPTER XI. Leave Port Otway—San Quintin Sound—Gulf of Pefias— Kelly Harbour—St. Xavier Island—Death of Serjeant Lyndsey—Port Xavier—Ygnacio Bay—Channel’s mouth —Bad weather—Perilous situation—Lose the yawl—Sick list—Return to Port Otway—Thence to Port Famine— Gregory Bay—Natives—Guanaco meat—Skunk—Con- dors—Brazilians—Juanico—Captain Foster—Changes of MIS Cay asa Ntahe raisins Ae BE ee Suse Ssh vaa:tsobeka St spurs 173 XXiv CONTENTS. ' CHAPTER XII. PAGE Adventure sails from Rio de Janeiro to the River Plata— Gorriti—Maldonado—Extraordinary Pampero—Beagle’s - losses—Ganges arrives—another Pampero—Go up the river for water—Gale, and consequent detention—Sail from Monte Video— part from Consorts— Port Desire —Tower Rock— Skeletons—Sea Bear Bay —Fire — Guanacoes—Port Desire Inlet—Indian graves—Vessels separate — Captain Foster—Chanticleer — Cape Horn — Kater Peak—Sail from St. Martin Cove — Tribute to Captain Foster—Valparaiso—Santiago— Pinto Heights— GhiGe—AlduH Ae oc. c0sh ocncncbbcreoer cr suadecsenswsneraeunname 189 CHAPTER XIII. Beagle and Adelaide anchor in Possession Bay—Beagle passes the First Narrow—Fogs—Pecket Harbour—Ade- laide arrives with Guanaco meat—Portuguese Seamen— Peculiar light—Party missing—Return—Proceed towards Port Famine—Fuegians—Lieut. Skyring—Adelaide sails to survey Magdalen and Barbara Channels—Views—Lyell Sound— Kempe Harbour— Cascade Bay—San Pedro Sound— Port Gallant — Diet — Rain — Awnings — Boat cruise — Warning — Jerome Channel— Blanket bags— Otway Water—Frequent rain—Diffiiculty in lighting fires 212 CHAPTER XIV. Place for a Settlement—Frost—Boats in danger—Narrow escape—Sudden change—Beagle Hills—Fuegian Painting Tides—Medicine—Water warmer than the air—Jerome Channel—Mr. Stokes returns to the Beagle—Cape Quod —Snowy Sound—Whale Sound—Choiseul Bay—Return to the Beagle—Adelaide returns—Plan of operations— Difficulties removed— Preparations—Wear and tear of clothing—Ascend the Mountain de la Cruz—Sail from Port Gallant—Tides—Borja Bay—Cape Quod—Gulf of Xaultegua—Frost and snow—Meet Adelaide— Part— Enter Pacific—Arrive at Childe ........ccccseecscesceceseeees 230 CONTENTS, XXV CHAPTER XV. PAGE Extracts from the Journals of Lieutenants Skyring and Graves—Magdalen Channel—Keats Sound—Mount Sar- miento—Barrow Head—Cockburn Channel—Prevalence of south-west winds—Melville Sound—Ascent of Mount Skyring—Memorial—Cockburn and Barbara Channels— Mass of Islets and Rocks—Hewett Bay—Cypress trees useful—Adelaide rejoins Beagle in Port Gallant—Captain King’s narrative resumed—Plan of future proceedings— Adelaide arrives at Chil6e—Abstract of Lieutenant Sky- ring’s account of her proceedings— Smyth Channel — Mount Burney—‘Ancon sin Salida’—Natives— Kirke Narrow—Guia Narrow—Peculiar tides—Indians in plank Canoes——Passare to CHUNG oor: tecececcusncctesseesacsevaens 251 CHAPTER XVI. Chilée—Its probable importance—Valdivia founds seven Cities ; afterwards destroyed by the Indians—Migration of Spanish settlers—Province and Islands of Chilée—Dis- tricts and population—Government—Defence—W inds— Town—Durability of wooden Buildings—Cultivation— Want of industry—Improvement—Dress—Habits of lower Classes — Morality — Schools — Language — Produce — Manufactures—Exports and imports—Varieties of wood— Alerse—Roads—Piraguas—Ploughs—Corn—Potatoes— Contributions—Birds— Shell-fish— Medical practitioners = ROME ATEUIAEC, ces du asinuisawss sg tnmeins desinesatdavsinns cuss 269 CHAPTER XVII. Childe the last Spanish possession in South America—Freyre’s Expedition—Failure—Second Expedition under Freyre and Blanco—Quintanilla’s capitulation—Chilée taken— Aldunate placed in command—Chiléde a dependency of Chile—Beagle ‘sails to sea coast of Tierra del Fuego— Adelaide repaired—Adelaide sails—Adventure goes to Ad Xxvi CONTENTS. PAGE Valparaiso—Juan Fernandez—Fishery—Goats—Dogs— Geology—Botany—Shells—Spanish accounts—Anson’s voyage—Talcahuano—Concepcion—Pinoleo—Araucanian Indians—Re-enter the Strait of Magalhaens—Fuegians 298 CHAPTER XVIII. Adelaide’s last cruise—Port Otway—San Quintin—Marine Islands—Unknown river or passage—San T'adeo—Isthmus of Ofqui—San Rafael—Sufferings and route of Wager’s party — Channel’s Mouth — Byron — Cheap — Elliot — Hamilton—Campbell—Indian Cacique—Passage of the Desecho—Osorio—Xavier Island—Jesuit Sound—Kirke’s report—Night tides—Guaianeco Islands—Site of the Wager’s wreck—Bulkely and Cummings—Speedwell Bay —Indigenous wild Potato—Mesier Channel—Fatal Bay —Death of Mr. Millar—Fallos Channel—Lieutenant Sky- ring’s illness—English Narrow—Fish—Wigwams—In- dians—Level Bay—Brazo Ancho—Eyre Sound—Seal— Icebergs—Walker Bay—Nature of the Country—Habits of the Natives—Scarcity of population............ccseeseeees 323 CHAPTER XIX. Sarmiento Channel—Ancon sin Salida—Cape Earnest— Canal of the Mountains—Termination of the Andes— Kirke Narrow—Easter Bay—Disappointment Bay—Ob- struction Sound—Last Hope Inlet-—Swans—Coots—Deer River—Lagoon—Singular Eddies—Passage of the Narrow —Arrival at Port Famine—Zoological remarks ............ 346 CHAPTER XX. Beagle sails from San Carlos—Enters Strait—Harbour of Mercy—Cape Pillar—Apostles—J udges—Landfall Island —Cape Gloucester—Dislocation Harbour—Week Islands —Fuegians—Latitude Bay—Boat’s crew in distress— Petrel—Passages—Otway Bay—Cape Tate—Fincham Is- CONTENTS. XXVil PAGE lands—Deepwater Sound—Breaker Bay—Grafton Islands —Geological remarks—Barbara Channel—Mount Sky- ring —Compasses affected — Drawings— Provisions— Op- portuniticsostyle Lc. assteadan. sak ~~ shee) - hegsta Ghee 360 CHAPTER XXI. Skyring’s chart—Noir Island—Penguins—Fuegians—Sar- miento — Townshend Harbour — Horace Peaks — Cape Desolation—Boat lost—Basket—Search in Desolation Bay —Natives — Heavy Gale— Surprise — Seizure — Conse- quences—Return to Beagle—Sail to Stewart Harbour— Set out again—Escape of Natives—Unavailing search— Discomforts—Tides—Nature of Coast—Doris Cove— Christmas Sound—Cook— York-Minster— March Har- bour—Build a boat—Treacherous rocks—Skirmish with the Natives—Captives—Boat Memory—Petrel ............ 386 CHAPTER XXII. Mr. Murray returns—Go to New Year Sound—See Diego Ramirez Islands from Henderson Island—Weddell’s Indian Cove—Sympiesometer— Return to Christmas Sound— Beagle sails—Passes the Ildefonso and Diego Ramirez Islands—Anchors in Nassau Bay—Orange Bay—Yapoos —Mr. Murray discovers the Beagle Channel—Numerous Natives—Guanacoes—Compasses affected—Cape Horn— Specimens—Chanticleer—Mistake about St. Francis Bay —Diego Ramirez Islands—Climate—San Joachim Cove— Barnevelt Isles—Evouts Isle—Lennox Harbour ............ 417 CHAPTER XXIII. Set out in boats—Find Guanacoes—Murray Narrow—Birc); Fungus—Tide—Channel— Glaciers— View— Mountein« Unbroken chain—Passages—Steam-vessels—Jemmy But. ton—Puma—Nest—Accident—Natives—Murray’s Jour- nal—Cape Graham—Cape Kinnaird—Spaniard Harbour XXVIli CONTENTS. ; PAGE —Valentyn Bay—Cape Good Success—Natives—Lennox f Island—Strait le Maire—Good Success Bay—Accident— Tide race—San Vicente—San Diego—Tides—Soundings —North-East Coast—San Sebastian—Reflections—Port Desire—Monte Video—Santa Catharina—Rio de Janeiro 438 CHAPTER XXIV. A few Nautical remarks upon the passage round Cape Horn ; and upon that through the Strait of Magalhaens, or Ma- ERRATA et CORRIGENDA. Page 76, line 4 from bottom, for lying, read being. 118, Heading, line 4, for Beagle sailed, read Beagle sails. 123, line 17, insert narrow, before and shoal. 164, line 23, instead of the, read our, 174, line 6, for cuts, read cut. 193, line 5, for have, read had. 223, (Note) line 2 from bottom, for they, vead he. 229, line 9, for was, read were. 265, line 8, after day, insert a colon instead of a comma. 273, line 21, after as well, inert as. 301, line 23, for Lieutenants Skyring and Graves again took with them, vead Lieutenant Skyring again took with him. 411, line 2, dele the. 437, line 16, for contiue, read continue. — line 19, for wit, read with. 462, line 21, for Santa Catalina, read Santa Catharina. 473, line 17, after which is, insert a. 481, bottom line, for 53. 32. 30, read 53, 52. 30. 485, line 7, (of positions) for 53. 31, read 53. 51. — bottom line, for 11. 51, read 3. 26, 488, line 9, for Northern, read Southern, 489, line 4 from bottom, for 46. 08, ead 46. 30; and for 40, 50, read 40. 05. 490. line 6, for 50°, read 49°. 491, line 6, for 36, 56, read 36. 16 493, line 9, for 54. 30. 00, read 54. 05. 20; and for 73. 1. 30, read 73. 25. 30. 526, for Variation, vead Dip. MAMMALIA. 529, line 8, fur Harlau read Harlan. 531, line 6, for KERODA read KERODON, BIRDS. 532, line 1, for Dumérel, read Duméril. — line 7, for M1Lo0AGo, read MILvAGo, — linel9, for SPAROERIUS, vead SPARVERIUS. 533, line 16, dele Spiz. — bottom line, for S1nvriA, read SyiviA, and in next page the same. 534, line 12, dele Fursa, Veillot. — line 10 from bottom, for SMARAGDIMIS, read SMARAGDINUS. 536, line 9 from bottom, for STRUTHEO, vead STRUTHIO. — line 6 from bottom, for vinacea, read binacea. 537, line 14, for ToTramus, veud ToTANUS, 538, line 5, for subtas, read subtus. — lower lines, where H@MATOPUS occurs, read HAMATOPUS. 540, last line, for meneque, read mineque ; and for parié, read paree. 541, line 12, for CATARRHOCTES, ead CATARRHACTES. — line 2 from bottom, for ud, read ad. 543, line 13, for gracillimus, read gracillimis. SHELLS. 545, last line, for brachyptera, read brachypterus ; for Patachonica, read Patachonicus. abil BA gt Neila AR in il wig ig swe gbalieg aighih ORs hathege pee ip i slain aM a ‘trun Ti ome Pcl” iso dere Ory Tanta gE oll AT: NA tn Sek, Saar La ah fh sand” BEE bd rl ; _ hat nh ia, elt ARE id as "ata “ul is: oy 1p Beatin atthe ven shod, Eomipory .rtects Aer partie iegrvemse Drives poly ya agheaanpak i“ me 3 mad ast oA wd i ‘auniinen trent mith i ne ripe. ato? hie heritage thee: “$0 ll nee a intra oe mney eee eee my Ot ae z < aliys Re Beate ba ey oa Cee jew VIA 10 AR ra i? “QeaQr WAN? “WHcosowiIsh;y Sy wu ew ee SURVEYING VOYAGES OF THE ADVENTURE anp tHe BEAGLE, 1826—1830. CHAPTER I. Departure from Monte Video—Port Santa Elena— Geological remarks —Cape Fairweather—Non-existence of Chalk—Natural History— Approach to Cape Virgins, and the Strait of Magalhaens (or Magellan). WeE sailed from Monte Video on the 19th of November 1826; and, in company with the Beagle, quitted the river Plata. According to my Instructions, the Survey was to commence at Cape San Antonio, the southern limit of the entrance of the Plata; but, for the following urgent reasons, I decided to begin with the southern coasts of Patagonia, and Tierra del Fuego, including the Straits of Magalhaens.* In the first place, they presented a field of great interest and novelty ; and secondly, the climate of the higher southern latitudes being so severe and tempestuous, it appeared important to encounter its rigours while the ships were in good condition—while the crews were healthy—and while the charms of a new and diffi- cult enterprize had full force. * Commonly called Magellan. See p. 11. VOL. I, B Q PORT SANTA ELENA. Nov. 1826. Our course was therefore southerly, and in latitude 45° south, a few leagues northward of Port Santa Elena, we first saw the coast of Patagonia. I intended to visit that port ; and, on the 28th, anchored, and landed there. Seamen should remember that a knowledge of the tide is of especial consequence in and near Port Santa Elena. During a calm we were carried by it towards reefs which line the shore, and were obliged to anchor until a breeze sprung up. The coast along which we had passed, from Point Lobos to the north-east point of Port Santa Elena, appeared to be dry and bare of vegetation. There were no trees; the land seemed to be one long extent of undulating plain, beyond which were high, flat-topped hills of a rocky, precipitous character. The shore was fronted by rocky reefs extend- ing two or three miles from high-water mark, which, as the tide fell, were left dry, and in many places were covered with seals. As soon as we had secured the ships, Captain Stokes accom- panied me on shore to select a place for our observations. We found the spot which the Spanish astronomers of Malas- pina’s Voyage (in 1798) used for their observatory, the most convenient for our purpose. It is near a very steep shingle (stony) beach at the back of a conspicuous red-coloured, rocky projection which terminates a small bay, on the western side, at the head of the port. The remains of a wreck, which proved to be that of an American whaler, the Decatur of New York, were found upon the extremity of the same point; she had been driven on shore from her anchors during a gale. The sight of the wreck, and the steepness of the shingle beach just described, evidently caused by the frequent action of a heavy sea, did not produce a favourable opinion of the safety of the port: but as it was not the season for easterly gales, to which only the anchorage is exposed, and as appear- ances indicated a westerly wind, we did not anticipate danger. While we were returning on board, the wind blew, so strongly that we had much difficulty in reaching the ships, and the boats were no sooner hoisted up, and every thing Nov. 1826. FIRE—GEOLOGY—GUANACOES. 3 made snug, than it blew a hard gale from the S.W. The water however, from the wind being off the land, was perfectly smooth, and the ships rode securely through the night: but the following morning the gale increased, and veered to the southward, which threw a heavy sea into the port, placing us, to say the least, in a very uneasy situation. Happily it ceased at sunset. In consequence of the unfavourable state of the weather, no attempt was made to land in order to observe an eclipse of the sun; to make which observation was one reason for visiting this port. The day after the gale, while I was employed in making some astronomical observations, a party roamed about in quest of game: but with little success, as they killed only a few wild ducks. The fire which they made for cooking communicated to the dry stubbly grass, and in a few minutes the whole country was in a blaze. 'The flames continued to spread dur- ing our stay, and, in a few days, more than fifteen miles along the coast, and seven or eight miles into the interior were over- run by the fire. ‘The smoke very much impeded our observa- tions, for at times it quite obscured the sun. The geological structure of this part of the country, and a considerable portion of the coast to the north and south, consists of a fine-grained porphyritic clay slate. The summits of the hills near the coast are generally of a rounded form, and are paved, asit were, with small, rounded, siliceous pebbles, imbed- ded in the soil, and in no instance lying loose or in heaps; but those of the interior are flat-topped, and uniform in height, for many miles in extent. The valleys and lower elevations, not- withstanding the poverty and parched state of the soil, were partially covered with grass and shrubby plants, which afford sustenance to numerous herds of guanacoes. Many of these animals were observed feeding near the beach when we were working into the bay, but they took the alarm, so that upon landing we only saw them at a considerable distance. In none of our excursions could we find any water that had not a_ brackish taste. Several wells have been dug in the valleys, both near the sea and at a considerable distance from it, by the B2 4. OYSTERS—QUADRUPEDS. Dec. 1826. crews of sealing vessels; but, except in the rainy season, they all contain saltish water. This observation is applicable to nearly the whole extent of the porphyritic country. Oyster- shells, three or four inches in diameter, were found, scattered over the hills, to the height of three or four hundred feet above the sea. Sir John Narborough, in 1652, found oyster-shells at Port San Julian; but, from a great many which have been lately collected there, we know that they are of a species different from that found at Port Santa Elena. Both are fossils. No recent specimen of the genus Ostrea was found by us on any part of the Patagonian coast. Narborough, in noticing those at Port San Julian, says, ‘‘ They are the biggest oyster- shells that I ever saw, some six, some seven inches broad, yet not one oyster to be found in the harbour: whence I conclude they were here when the world was formed.” The short period of our visit did not enable us to add much to natural history. Of quadrupeds we saw guanacoes, foxes, cavies, and the armadillo; but no traces of the puma (Felis concolor), or South American lion, although it is to be met with in the interior. I mentioned that a herd of guanacoes was feeding near the shore when we arrived. Every exertion was made to obtain some of the animals; but, either from their shyness, or our ignc- rance of the mode of entrapping them, we tried in vain, until the arrival of a small sealing-vessel, which had hastened to our assistance, upon seeing the fires we had accidentally made, but which her crew thought were intended for signals of distress. They shot two, and sent some of the meat on board the Adven- ture. The next day, Mr. Tarn succeeded in shooting one, a female, which, when skinned and cleaned, weighed 168 lbs. Narborough mentions having killed one at Port San Julian, that weighed, “ cleaned in his quarters, 268 lbs.” The watch- ful and wary character of this animal is very remarkable. Whenever a herd is feeding, one is posted, like a sentinel, on a height ; and, at the approach of danger, gives instant alarm by a loud neigh, when away they all go, at a hand-gallop, to the next eminence, where they quietly resume their feeding, ~ Dec. 1826. NATURAL HISTORY. 5 until again warned of the approach of danger by their vigilant © look-out.” Another peculiarity of the guanaco is, the habit of resorting to particular spots for natural purposes. ‘This is mentioned in the ‘ Dictionnaire d’Histoire Naturelle,’ in the ‘ Encyclopédie Méthodique,’ as well as other works. In one place we found the bones of thirty-one guanacoes collected within a space of thirty yards, perhaps the result of an encampment of Indians, as evident traces of them were observed ; among which were a human jaw-bone, and a piece of agate ingeniously chipped into the shape of a spear-head. The fox, which we did not take, appeared to be small, and similar to a new species afterwards found by us in the Strait of Magalhaens. The cavia* (or, as it is called by Narborough, Byron, and Wood, the hare, an animal from which it differs both in appear- ance and habits, as well as flavour), makes‘a good dish ; and so does the armadillo, which our people called the shell-pig.+ This little animal is found abundantly about the low land, and lives in burrows underground ; several were taken by the seamen, and, when cooked in their shells, were savoury and wholesome. Teal were abundant upon the marshy grounds. A few par- tridges, doves, and snipes, a rail, and some hawks were shot. The few sea-birds that were observed consisted of two species of gulls, a grebe and a penguin (Aptenodytes Magellanica). We found two species of snakes and several kinds of lizards. Fish were scarce, as were also insects; of the last, our collec- * Dasyprocta patachonica : it is the Patagonian cavy of Dr. Shaw, and Pennant’s Quadr., tab. 39, and the liévre pumpa of D’Azara. M. Desma- rest thinks that if the teeth were examined it would form a new genus, for which he proposes the name of Dolichotis (Ency. Meth. Mamm. p. 359). At present he has, from its external character, placed it amongst the genus Dasyprocta (agouti). The only one that was taken was not preserved, which prevented me from ascertaining the fact. + Dasypus minutus, Desm. Tatou pichiy, or tatou septiéme of D’ Azara, &c. &c. It has seven bands. 6 SHELLS—BURIAL-PLACES, Dec. 1826. tions consisted only of a few species of Coleoptera, two or three Lepidoptera, and two Hymenoptera. Among the sea-shells, the most abundant was the Patella deaurata, Lamk. ; this, with three other species of Patella, one Chiton, three species of Mytilus, three of Murex, one of Crepi- dula, and a Venus, were all that we collected. About the country, near the sea-shore, there is a small tree, whose stem and roots are highly esteemed for fuel by the crews of sealing-vessels which frequent this coast. They call it ‘piccolo.’ The leaf was described to me as having a prickle upon it, and the flower as of a yellow colour. A species of berberis also is found, which when ripe may afford a very palatable fruit. Our short visit gave us no flattering opinion of the fertility of the country near this port. Of the interior we were igno- rant ; but, from the absence of Indians and the scarcity of fresh water, it is probably very bare of pasturage. Falkner, the Jesuit missionary, says these parts were used by the Tehuelhet tribes for burying-places: we saw, however, no graves, nor any traces of bodies, excepting the jaw-bone above- mentioned; but subsequently, at Sea Bear Bay, we found many places on the summits of the hills which had evidently been used for such a purpose, although then containing no remains of bodies. This corresponds with Falkner’s account, that after a period of twelve months the sepulchres are formally visited by the tribe, when the bones of their relatives and friends are collected and carried to certain places, where the skeletons are arranged in order, and tricked out with all the finery and ornaments they can collect. The ships sailed from Port Santa Elena on the 5th Decem- ber, and proceeded to the southward, coasting the shore as far as Cape Two Bays. Our object being to proceed with all expedition to the Strait of Magalhaens, the examination of this part of the coast was reserved for a future opportunity. On the 13th, we had reached within fifty miles of Cape Virgins, the headland at the entrance of the strait, but it was directly in the wind’s eye Dec. 1826. CAPE FAIRWEATHER—CHALK. 7 of us. The wind veering to S8.S.W., we made about a west course. At day-light the land was in sight, terminating in a point to the S.W., so exactly like the description of Cape Virgins and the view of it in Anson’s voyage, that without considering our place on the chart, or calculating the previous twenty-four hours’ run, it was taken for the Cape itself, and, no one suspecting a mistake, thought of verifying the ship’s position. The point, however, proved to be Cape Fairweather. It was not a little singular, that the same mistake should have been made on board the Beagle, where the error was not dis- covered for three days.* From the appearance of the weather I was anxious to approach the land in order to anchor, as there seemed to be every likelihood of a gale; and we were not deceived, for at three o'clock, being within seyen miles of the Cape, a strong wind sprung up from the S.W., and the anchor was dropped. Towards evening it blew so hard, that both ships dragged their anchors for a considerable distance. On the charts of this part of the coast the shore is described to be formed of “chalk hills, like the coast of Kent.” To geologists, therefore, especially, as they were not disposed to believe that such was the fact, this was a question of some interest. From our anchorage the appearance of the land favoured our belief of the existence of chalk. The outline was very level and steep ; precipitous cliffs of whitish colour, strati- fied horizontally, with their upper part occasionally worn into hollows, strongly resembled the chalk cliffs of the English coasts. The gale prevented our landing for three days, when (19th) a few minutes sufficed to discover that the cliffs were composed * A similar error was made by one of the ships of the fleet under Loyasa in the year 1525. The Nodales also, in their description of the coast, mention the similarity of appearance in the two capes, Virgins and Fairweather. ‘ Y venido de mar en fuera a buscar la tierra facilmente podian hacer de Rio de Gallegos el Cabo de Virgenes,” (and in making the land Cape Virgins may easily be mistaken for the river Gallegos). —Viage de los Nodales, p. 53. 8 CLIFFS—FISH. Dec. 1826. of soft clay, varying in colour and consistence, and disposed in strata running horizontally for many miles without interrup- tion, excepting where water-courses had worn them away. Some of the strata were very fine clay, unmixed with any other substance, whilst others were plentifully strewed with round siliceous gravel,* without any vestige of organic remains. The sea beach, from high-water mark to the base of the cliffs, is formed by shingle, with scattered masses of indurated clay of a green colour.} Between the high and low tide marks there is a smooth beach of the same green clay as the masses above-men- tioned, which appears to have been hardened by the action of the surf to the consistence of stone. Generally this beach extends for about one hundred yards farther into the sea, and is succeeded by a soft green mud, over which the water gradually deepens. The outer edge of the clay forms a ledge, extending parallel with the coast, upon the whole length of which the sea breaks, and over it a boat can with difficulty pass at low water. The very few shells we found were dead. Strewed about the beach were numbers of fish, some of which had been thrown on shore by the last tide, and were scarcely stiff. They principally belonged to the genus Ophidium; the largest that we saw measured four feet seven inches in length, and weighed twenty-four pounds. Many caught alongside the ship were, in truth, coarse and insipid; yet our people, who fed heartily upon them, called them ling, and thought them palatable. The hook, however, furnished us with a very wholesome and well-flavoured species of cod (Gadus). Attached to the first we found two parasitical animals; one was a Cymothoa, the other a species of Lernca, which had so * Some of the specimens of the clay strata consist, according to Dr. Fitton, who has kindly examined my collection, of a white marl not unlike certain varieties of the lower chalk ; and of a clay having many of the properties of fuller’s earth. The pebbles on the beach consist of quartz, red jasper, hornstone, and flinty slate, but do not contain any stone resembling chalk flint. + Dr. Fitton considers these masses of clay to bear a resemblance to the upper green sand of England. Dec. 1826. RIVER GALLEGOS. 9 securely attached itself under the skin, as not to be removed without cutting off a piece of the flesh with it. An undescribed species of Mureena was also taken. Whilst we were on shore, the Beagle moved eight or nine miles nearer to the Cape, where Captain Stokes landed to fix positions of remarkable land. One peaked hill, from the cir- cumstance of his seeing a large animal near it, he called Tiger Mount. Mr. Bowen shot a guanaco; and being at a distance in shore, unable to procure assistance, he skinned and quar- tered it with his pocket-knife, and carried it upon his shoulders to the boat. Next morning the ships weighed, and proceeded towards Cape Virgins. When a-breast of Cape Fairweather, the opening of the river Gallegos was very distinctly seen; but the examination of it was deferred to a future opportunity. Passing onward, the water shoaled to four fathoms, until we had passed exten- sive banks, which front the river. Our approach to the entrance of the Strait, although at- tended with anxiety, caused sensations of interest and pleasure not easily to be described. 'Though dangers were experienced by some navigators who had passed it, the comparative facility with which others had effected the passage showed that, at times, the difficulties were easily surmounted, and we were willing to suppose that in the former case there might have been some little exaggeration. The most complete, and, probably, the only good account of the navigation of the Strait of Magalhaens is contained in the narrative of Don Antonio de Cordova, who commanded the Spanish frigate Santa Maria de la Cabeza, on a voyage ex- pressly for the purpose of exploring the strait. It was pub- lished under the title of ‘ Ultimo Viage al Estrecho de Magal- lanes. That voyage was, however, concluded with only the examination of the eastern part, and a subsequent expedition was made, under the command of the same officer, the account of which was appended to the Cabeza’s voyage ; so that Cor- dova’s expedition still retained the appellation of ‘ Ultimo 10 APPROACH TO THE STRAIT Dec. 1826 Viage, &c.’ It is written in a plain and simple style, gives a most correct account of every thing seen, and should therefore be in the possession of every person who attempts the naviga- tion of the strait. Cordova’s account of the climate is very uninviting. Speak- ing of the rigours of the summer months (January, February, and March), he says, ‘¢ Seldom was the sky clear, and short were the intervals in which we experienced the sun’s warmth : no day passed by without some rain having fallen, and the most usual state of the weather was that of constant rain.”* The accounts of Wallis and Carteret are still more gloomy. The former concludes that part of his narrative with the following dismal and disheartening description: ‘‘ Thus we quitted a dreary and inhospitable region, where we were in almost continual danger of shipwreck for near four months, having entered the strait on the 17th of December, and quitted it on the 11th of April 1767: a region where, in the midst of summer, the weather was cold, gloomy, and tempestuous, where the prospects had more the appearance of a chaos than of nature; and where for the most part the valleys were with- out herbage and the hills without wood.” These records of Cordova and Wallis made me feel not a little apprehensive for the health of the crew, which could not be expected to escape uninjured through the rigours of such a climate. Nor were the narratives of Byron or Bougain- ville calculated to lessen my anxiety. In an account, however, of a voyage to the strait by M. A. Duclos Guyot, the follow- ing paragraph tended considerably to relieve my mind upon the subject :—‘ At length, on Saturday the 23d of March, we sailed out of that famous Strait, so much dreaded, after having experienced that there, as well as in other places, it was very fine, and very warm, and that for three-fourths of the time the sea was perfectly calm.” In every view of the case, our proximity to the principal scene of action occasioned sensations of a peculiar nature, in which, however, those that were most agreeable and hopeful * Ultimo Viage al Estrecho de Magallanes, part ii. p. 298. Dec. 1826. OF MAGALHAENS. 11 preponderated. The officers and crews of both ships were healthy, and elated with the prospect before them; our vessels were in every respect strong and sea-worthy ; and we were possessed of every comfort and resource necessary for encoun- tering much greater difficulties than we had any reason to anticipate. There has existed much difference of opinion as to the correct mode of spelling the name of the celebrated navigator who discovered this Strait. The French and English usually write it Magellan, and the Spaniards Magallanes; but by the Portuguese (and he was a native of Portugal) it is universally written Magalhaens. Admiral Burney and Mr. Dalrymple spell it Magalhanes, which mode I have elsewhere adopted, but I have since convinced myself of the propriety of following the Portuguese orthography for aname which, to this day, is very common both in Portugal and Brazil. CHAPTER II. Enter the Straits of Magalhaens (or Magellan), and anchor off Cape Possession — First Narrow—Gregory Bay — Patagonian Indians— Second Narrow — Elizabeth Island— Freshwater Bay — Fuegian Indians—Arrival at Port Famine. A contrary tide and light winds detained us at anchor near Cape Virgins until four o’clock in the afternoon, when, with the turn of the tide, a light air carried us past Dungeness Point, aptly named by Wallis from its resemblance to that in the English Channel. A great number of seals were huddled together upon the bank, above the wash of the tide, whilst others were sporting about in the surf. Cape Possession was in sight, and with the wind and tide in our favour we pro- ceeded until ten o'clock, when the anchor was dropped. At daylight we found ourselves six miles to the eastward of the cape. The anchor was then weighed, and was again dropped at three miles from the cape until the afternoon, when we made another attempt; but lost ground, and anchored a third time. Before night a fourth attempt was made, but the tide prevented our making any advance, and we again anchored. Mount Aymond* and “his four sons,” or (according to the old quaint nomenclature) the Asses’ Fars, had been in sight all day, as well as a small hummock of land on the S.W. horizon, which afterwards proved to be the peaked hillock upon Cape Orange, at the south side of the entrance to the First Narrow. At this anchorage the tide fell thirty feet, but the strength of the current, compared with the rate at which we afterwards found it to run, was inconsiderable Here we first experienced. * A hill on the north shore of Possession Bay, having near it, to the westward, four rocky summits, which, from a particular point of view, bear a strong resemblance to the cropped ears of a horse or ass. These are described less briefly in the Sailing Directions. Dec. 1826. SEA-WEED OR KELP. 13 the peculiar tides of which former navigators have written. During the first half of the flood* or westward tide, the depth decreased, and then, after a short interval, increased until three hours after the stream of tide had begun to run to the eastward. The following morning (21st) we gained a little ground. Our glasses were directed to the shore in search of inhabitants, for it was hereabouts that Byron, and Wallis, and some of the Spanish navigators held communication with the Patagonian Indians ; but we saw none. Masses of large sea-weed,+ drift- ing with the tide, floated past the ship. A description of this remarkable plant, although it has often been given before, may not be irrelevant here. It is rooted upon rocks or stones at the bottom of the sea, and rises to the surface, even from great depths. We have found it firmly fixed to the ground more than twenty fathoms under water, yet trailing along the sur- face for forty or fifty feet. When firmly rooted it shows the set of the tide or current. It has also the advantage of indi- cating rocky ground: for wherever there are rocks under water, their situation is, as it were, buoyed by a mass of sea- weed + on the surface of the sea, of larger extent than that of the danger below. In many instances perhaps it causes un- necessary alarm, since it often grows in deep water; but it should not be entered without its vicinity having been sounded, especially if seen in masses, with the extremities of the stems trailing along the surface. If there be no tide, or if the wind and tide are the same way, the plant lies smoothly upon the water, but if the wind be against the tide, the leaves curl up and are visible at a distance, giving a rough, rippling appear- ance to the surface of the water. During the last two days the dredge had furnished us with a few specimens of Infundibulum of Sowerby (Patella trochi-formis, Lin.), and some dead shells (Murex Magellani- cus) were brought up by the sounding-lead. We made another attempt next morning, but again lost * Flowing into the strait from the east towards the west. ¥ Fucus giganteus. t Usually called by seamen ‘ kelp.’ 14 FIRST NARROW. Dec. 1826. ground, and the anchor was dropped for the eighth time. The threatening appearances of the clouds, and a considerable fall of the barometer indicating bad weather, Captain Stokes agreed with me in thinking it advisable to await the spring- tides to pass the First Narrow: the ships were therefore made snug for the expected gale, which soon came on, and we remained several days wind-bound, with top-masts struck, in a rapid tide-way, whose stream sometimes ran seven knots. On the 28th, with some appearance of improving weather, we made an attempt to pass through the Narrow. The wind blowing strong, directly against us, and strengthening as we advanced, caused a hollow sea, that repeatedly broke over us. The tide set us through the Narrow very rapidly, but the gale was so violent that we could not show more sail than was abso- lutely necessary to keep the ship under command. Wearing every ten minutes, as we approached either shore, lost us a great deal of ground, and as the anchorage we left was at a considerable distance from the entrance of the Narrows, the tide was not sufficient to carry us through. At slack water the wind fell, and as the weather became fine, I was induced to search for anchorage near the south shore. The sight of kelp, however, fringing the coast, warned me off, and we were obliged to return to an anchorage in Possession Bay. The Beagle had already anchored in a very favourable berth ; but the tide was too strong to permit us to reach the place she occupied, and our anchor was dropped a mile astern of her, in nineteen fathoms. The tide was then running five, and soon afterwards six miles an hour. Had the western tide set with equal strength, we should have succeeded in passing the Narrow. Our failure, however, answered the good purpose of making us more acquainted with the extent of a bank that lines the northern side of Possession Bay, and with the tine of the turn of tide in the Narrow ; which on this day (new moon) took place within a few minutes of noon. As we passed Cape Orange, some Indians were observed lighting a fire under the lee of the hill to attract our notice ; but we were too busily engaged to pay much attention to Dec. 1826. FALL AND STRENGTH OF TIDE. 15 their movements. Guanacoes also were seen feeding near the beach, which was the first intimation we had of the existence of that animal southward of the Strait of Magal- haens. When day broke (29th) it was discovered that the ship had drifted considerably during the night. The anchor was weighed, and with a favourable tide we reached an anchorage a mile in advance of the Beagle. We had shoaled rather saddenly to eight fathoms, upon which the anchor was imme- diately dropped, and on veering cable the depth was eleven fathoms. We had anchored on the edge of a bank, which soon afterwards, by the tide falling, was left dry within one hundred yards of the ship. Finding ourselves so near a shoal, preparations were made to prevent the ship from touch- ing it. An anchor was dropped under foot, and others were got ready to lay out, for the depth alongside had decreased from eleven to seven fathoms, and was still falling. For- tunately we had brought up to leeward of the bank, and suf- fered no inconvenience; the flood made, and as soon as possible the ship was shifted to another position, about half a mile to the S. E., in a situation very favourable for our next attempt to pass the Narrow. This night the tide fell thirty-six feet, and the stream ran six knots. The ensuing morning we made another attempt to get through the Narrow, and, from having anchored so close to its entrance, by which the full benefit of the strength, as well as the whole duration of the tide was obtained, we succeeded in clearing it in two hours, although the distance was more than twenty miles, and the wind directly against us, the sea, as before, breaking repeatedly over the ship. After emerging from the Narrow we had to pass through a heavy ‘race’ before we ‘reached’ out of the influence of the stream that runs between the First and Second Narrow, but the tide lasted long enough to carry us to a quiet anchorage. In the evening we weighed again, and reached Gregory Bay, where the Beagle joined us the next morning. Since entering the Strait, we had not had any communication 16 GREGORY BAY—NATIVES. Dec. 1826. with the Beagle on account of the weather, and the strength of the tide ; this opportunity was therefore taken to supply her with water, of which she had only enough left for two days. The greater part of this day was spent on shore, examining the country and making observations. Large smokes* were noticed to the westward. 'The shore was strewed with traces of men and horses, and other animals. Foxes and ostriches were seen; and bones of guanacoes were lying about the ground. The country in the vicinity of this anchorage seemed open, low, and covered with good pasturage. It extends five or six miles, with a gradual ascent, to the base of a range of flat- topped land, whose summit is about fifteen hundred feet above the level of the sea. Not a tree was seen; a few bushest alone interrupted the uniformity of the view. The grass ap- peared to have been cropped by horses or guanacoes, and was much interspersed with cranberry plants, bearing a ripe and juicy, though very insipid fruit. Next day the wind was too strong and adverse to permit us to proceed. In the early part of the morning an American sealing vessel, returning from the Madre de Dios Archipelago on her way to the Falkland Islands, anchored near us. Mr. Cutler, her master, came on board the Adventure, passed the day and night with us, and gave me much useful information respecting the nature of the navigation, and anchorages in the Strait. He told me there was an Englishman in his vessel who was a pilot for the strait, and willing to join the ship. I gladly accepted the offer of his services. In the evening an Indian was observed on horseback riding to and fro upon the beach, but the weather prevented my send- ing a boat until the next morning, when Lieutenant Cooke went on shore to communicate with him and other Indians who appeared, soon after dawn, upon the beach. On landing, he was received by them without the least distrust. They were eight or ten in number, consisting of an old man and his wife, three young men, and the rest children, all mounted on * Columns of smoke rising from large fires. + Berberis. ° Jan. 1827. PATAGONIAN INDIANS. gb74 good horses. The woman, who appeared to be about fifty years of age, was seated astride upon a pile of skins, hung round with joints of fresh guanaco meat and dried horse-flesh. They were all wrapped in mantles, made chiefly of the skins of guanacoes, sewed together with the sinews of the same animal. ‘These mantles were large enough to cover the whole body. Some were made of skins of the ‘ zorillo, or skunk, an animal like a pole-cat, but ten times more offensive ; and others, of skins of the puma. The tallest of the Indians, excepting the old man, who did not dismount, was rather less than six feet in height. All were robust in appearance, and with respect to the head, length of body, and breadth of shoulders, of gigantic size; therefore, when on horseback, or seated in a boat, they appeared to be tall, as well as large men. In proportion to the parts above- mentioned, their extremities were very small and short, so that when standing they seemed but of a moderate size, and their want of proportion was concealed by the mantle, which enve- loped the body entirely, the head and feet being the only parts exposed. When Mr. Cooke landed, he presented some medals * to the oldest man,'and the woman; and suspended them round their necks. A friendly feeling being established, the natives dismounted, and even permitted our men to ride their horses, without evincing the least displeasure, at the free advantage taken of their good-nature. Mr. Cooke rode to the heights, whence he had a distinct view of the Second Narrow, and Elizabeth Island, whither, he explained to the Indians who accompanied him, we were going. Mr. Cooke returned to the ship with three natives, whom he had induced to go with us to Elizabeth Island ; the others were to meet them, and provide us with guanaco meat, to which arrangement the elders of the family had, after * Previous to the expedition quitting England, I had provided myself with medals, to give away to the Indians with whom we might commu- nicate, bearing on one side the figure of Britannia, and on the reverse * George LV.” “ Adventure and Beagle,” and “1826.” VOL, I, Cc 18 PATAGONIAN INDIANS. Jan. 1827. much persuasion, assented. At first they objected to their companions embarking with us, unless we left hostages for their safety ; but as this was refused, they did not press the point, and the three young men embarked. They went on board singing ; in high glee. While the ship was getting under way, I went ashore to a larger number of Indians who were waiting on the beach. When my boat landed they were mounted, and collected in one place. I was surprised to hear the woman accost me in Spa- nish, of which, however, she knew but a few words. Having presented medals to each of the party, they dismounted (except- ing the elders), and in a few minutes became quite familiar. By this time Captain Stokes had landed, with several of his officers, who increased our party to nearly double the number of theirs: notwithstanding which they evinced neither fear nor uneasiness. The woman, whose name was Maria, wished to be very communicative ; she told me that the man was her hus- band, and that she had five children. One of the young men, whom we afterwards found to be a son of Maria, who was a principal person of the tribe, was mounted upon a very fine horse, well groomed, and equipped with a bridle and saddle that would have done credit to a respectable horseman of Buenos Ayres or Monte Video. The young man wore heavy brass spurs, like those of the Guachos of Buenos Ayres. The juvenile and feminine appearance of this youth made us think he was Maria’s daughter, nor was it until a subsequent visit that our mistake was discovered. ‘The absence of whiskers and beard gives all the younger men a very effeminate look, and many can- not be distinguished, in appearance, from the women, but by the mode in which they wrap their mantles around them, and by their hair, which is turned up and confined by a fillet of worsted yarn. The women cross their mantle over the breast like a shawl, and fasten it together with two iron pins or skewers, round which are twisted strings of beads and other ornaments. They also wear their hair divided, and gathered into long tresses or tails, which hang one before each ear; and those who have short hair, wear false tails made of horse-hair. Under Jan. 1827. PATAGONIAN INDIANS. 19 their mantle the women wear a sort of petticoat, and the men a triangular piece of hide instead of breeches. Both sexes sit astride, but the women upon a heap of skins and mantles, when riding. The saddles and stirrups used by the men are similar to those of Buenos Ayres. The bits, also, are generally of steel ; but those who cannot procure steel bits have a sort of snafile, of wood, which must, of course, be frequently renewed. Both sexes wear boots, made of the skins of horses’ hind legs, of which the parts about the hock joints serve for the heels. For spurs, they use pieces of wood, pointed with iron, projecting backwards two or three inches on each side of the heel, con- nected behind by a broad strap of hide, and fastened under the foot and over the instep by another strap. The only weapons which we observed with these people were the ‘bolas,’ or balls, precisely similar to those used by the Pampas Indians; but they are fitter for hunting than for offence or defence. Some are furnished with three balls, but in general there are only two. These balls are made of small bags or purses of hide, moistened, filled with iron pyrites, or some other heavy substance, and then dried. They are about the size of a hen’s egg, and attached to the extremities of a thong, three or four yards in length. To use them, one ball is held in the hand, and the other swung several times around the head until both are thrown at the object, which they rarely miss. They wind round it violently, and if it be an animal, throw it down. The bolas, with three balls, similarly connected together, are thrown in the same manner. As more time could not be spared we went on board, re- minding the natives, on leaving them, of their promise to bring us some guanaco meat. Aided by the tide, the ships worked to windward through the Second Narrow, and reached an anchorage out of the strength of tide, but in an exposed situation. ‘The wind having been very strong and against the tide, the ship had much motion, which made our Patagonian passengers very sick, and heartily sorry for trusting themselves afloat. One of them, with tears in his eyes, begged to be landed, but was soon convinced of the difficulty of compliance, c 2 ~ 20 SECOND NARROW. Jan. 1827. and satisfied with our promise of sending him ashore on the morrow. After we anchored, the wind imereased to a gale, in. which the ship pitched so violently as to injure our windlass. Its con- struction was bad originally, and the violent jerks received in Possession Bay had done it much damage. While veering cable, the support at one end gave way, and the axle of the barrel was forced out of the socket, by which some of the pawls “were injured. Fortunately, dangerous consequences were pre- vented, and a temporary repair was soon applied. The Beagle, by her better sailing, had reached a more advanced situation, close to the N.E. end of Elizabeth Island, but had anchored disadvantageously in deep water, and in the strength of the tide. Next morning we made an attempt to pass round Elizabeth Island, but found the breeze so strong that we were forced to return, and were fortunate enough to find good anchorage northward of the island, out of the tide. The Patagonians, during the day, showed much uneasiness at being kept on board so much longer than they expected; but as they seemed to understand the cause of their detention, and as their sickness ceased when we reached smooth water, they gradually recovered their good-humour, and became very communicative. As well as we could understand their pronunciation, their names were ‘Coigh,’ ¢Coichi, and ‘Aighen.’ The country behind Cape Negro they called ‘Chilpéyo ;’ the land of Tierra del Fuego, ‘Oschérri ;’ Elizabeth Island, ¢ Tur- rétterr ;’ the island of Santa Magdalena, ‘Shrée-ket-tup ; and Cape Negro, ¢ Oérkréckur.’ The Indians of Tierra del Fuego, with whom they are not on friendly terms, are designated by them ‘ Sapallids.” This name was applied to them im a con- temptuous tone. Aighen’s features were remarkably different from those of his companions. Instead of a flat nose, his was aquiline and prominent, and his countenance was full of expression. He proved to be good-tempered, and easily pleased ; and whenever a shade of melancholy began to appear, cur assurance of Jan. 1827. DIMENSIONS OF A NATIVE. 21 landing him on the morrow restored his good-humour, which was shown by singing and laughing. The dimensions of Coichi’s head were as follows :— From the top of the fore part of the head to the eyes........ 4 inches. [DO eas Sia GU) Yb enartooine to the tip of the nose 6 IDCy Fidos GeO EET OKO. Baus Clo oo ce to the mouth...... 7 DO) pure iaiags 27sia18ie Ope cistsieses = <9 CO, CHEVEhini.jecrotepetepen lg Width of the head acrossthe temples ..--.......---.... 7} read thvohthe shouldersp-arfeysiereieres c/