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BATTLES OF QUATRE-BRAS, LIGNY, WAVRE, 


AND 


WATERLOO. 


Now ready, the Second Edition, uniform with 
General Napier’s History of the War in the Peninsula, 
and the Wellington Dispatches, 


Price £2. 2s. 


DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION, 


TO eR MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY, THE QUEEN. 


HISTORY OF THE 


' WAR IN FRANCE AND BELGIUM, 


. IN 1815, 
_ _ FROM THE TESTIMONY OF EYE-WITNESSES AND OTHER SOURCES, EXCLUSIVE AND AUTHENTIC. 


2 BY CAPTAIN WILLIAM SIBORNE, 


CONSTRUCTOR OF THE “ WATERLOO MODEL.’? 


IN TWO VOLUMES, OCTAYO. 


BEAUTIFULLY EMBELLISHED WITH MEDALLION PORTRAITS, ENGRAVED ON STEEL, OF 


THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON, THE PRINCE OF ORANGE, NEY, DUKE OF ELCHINGEN, 
_ PRINCE BLUCHER VON WAHLSTADT, THE MARQUESS OF ANGLESEY, CouNT ALTEN, 

NAPOLEON BUONAPARTE, Lorp Hitt, Sir THOMAS PICTON. 

THE DUKE OF BRUNSWICK, Soutt, DUKE OF DALMATIA, 


AND A FOLIO ATLAS, 


OF ANAGLYPTOGRAPHIC ENGRAVINGS ON STEEL, FROM MODELS, CONTAINING 


2 PLANS OF QUATRE-BRAS, shewing different Periods of the Action. 


- - = Ligny - - - = = = = = ditto. 
eee WAVRE.- 9 = = wm em = OIEtOS 
So = - = WATERLOO - - = - = = ditto. 


WITH MAPS OF BELGIUM AND PART OF FRANCE. 


_ In announcing a History of the War in 1815, by the Constructor of the celebrated Model of the Battle 
of Waterloo, the Publishers feel confident that the undeniable proof which the latter work of art affords 
_ of the most indefatigable perseverance and industry in the collection of materials for the accurate repre- 
_ Sentatiou of an event so fertile in glorious achievements, and so decisive in its influence upon the destinies’ 
of Europe, as also of the professional skill with which those materials have been arranged for the com- 
plete development of that ever memorable conflict, offers a sufficient guarantee for a similar application 
_of the author’s unwearied zeal and research in the task he has undertaken of supplying what still remains 
a desideratum in our national history and military records—a true and faithful account of that last 
campaign in Europe, comprising the crowning triumph of the British army, and, at the same time, the 
closing chapter of the military life of its illustrious chief, the Duke of Wellington. 

‘Numerous as are the accounts already published of this great conflict, the information which they 
convey is generally of too vague and indistinct a nature to satisfy either the military man who seeks for 
_ professional instruction, or the general reader who desires to comprehend more clearly, in allits details, 
that gorgeous machinery, if it may so be termed, which was put in motion, regulated, and controlled by 


| me _ PROSPECTUS. AR alla one 
the greatest masters of their art, who, in modern times, have been summoned forth to wield the mighty 
engines of destruction wherewith nation wars against nation. How just is the observation of Jomini, 
one of the most talented military writers of the day—‘‘ Jamais bataille ne fut plus confusément décrite 
que celle de Waterloo.” On consulting these accounts the public glean little beyond the fact that at 
Waterloo the allied army stood its ground during the whole day, in defiance of the reiterated attacks by 
the French, until theDuke of Wellington led it forward to crown its exertions with the most splendid 


victory. They afford'us but a faint idea of those strategical movements and combinations upon which 


the grand design of the campaign was based by the one party, and with which it was assailed by the 
other; and we seek in vain for the development of those tactical dispositions by which the skill of the 
commanders and the valour of the combatants were fairly tested. From the want of due consecutive 
arrangement in the details, and the tendency too frequently manifested to compensate for this deficiency 
by mere anecdotic narration, the motives by which, in the great game of war, the illustrious players are 
actuated, are left out of view, while circumstances which especially call forth the skill of subordinate offi- 
cers in command, as also the courage, the discipline, and the prowess of particular brigades, regiments, or 
even minor divisions of the contending masses, are either imperfectly elucidated, or, as is often the case, 


unhesitatingly set aside to make way for the exploits of a few individuals whose deeds, however heroic 


they may be deemed, constitute but isolated fractional parts of that great sum of moral energy and 
physical force combined, requisite to give full effect to the application of the mental powers of the 
chieftains under whose guidance the armies are respectively placed. These remarks have reference, 
more or less, not only to the generality of the accounts of the Battle of Waterloo, with which the 
public have hitherto heen furnished, but also to those of Quatre-Bras, Ligny, and Wavre; the first of 
which, brilliant as was the reflection which it cast upon the glory of the victors, became eclipsed solely 


by the more dazzling splendour of the greater, because more important, triumph of Waterloo. To 


endeavour to remedy these deficiencies, through the medium of the evidence of eye-witnesses, most 
willingly and liberally supplied, as well as carefully collated, examined, and, at the same time, proved, 
wherever practicable, by corroborative testimony—every component piece of information being made to 
dovetail, as it were,into its adjacent and corresponding parts—is the chief object of the present 
publication. 

The opportunities which Captain Siborne has enjoyed of collecting the data requisite for this highly 
important work, have been peculiarly favourable. Having commenced his large Model under the autho- 
rity of the government, he received permission to address himself to the several officers who might have 


it in their power to communicate valuable information ; and, with a view to render such information as 


complete as possible, and to substantiate it by corroborative testimony, he forwarded his applications to 
almost every surviving Waterloo officer—not limiting his inquiries to any one particular period of the 
action, but extending them over the whole of the Battle of Waterloo, as also of that of Quatre-Bras, and 
of the entire campaign. In this manner he has succeeded in obtaining from the combined evidence of 
eye-witnesses a mass of extremely important matter ; and when the public are informed that Captain Si- 
borne has also been in unreserved communication with the governments of our allies in that war, con- 
cerning the operations of the troops they respectively brought into the field, it is presumed that the ex- 
traordinary advantages he possesses for a satisfactory fulfilment of his design will be at once acknow- 
ledged and appreciated. 

In reverting, however, to the Model, as connected with the present history, it may not be unimpor- 
tant to add that some objections were raised against the position thereon assigned to a portion of the 
Prussian troops. These objections induced Captain Siborne to investigate more closely the evidence he 
had received relative to that part of the field; and the result of such re-consideration has been a perfect 
conviction that an error of some importance, as regards time and situation, did exist. When the Model 
is again submitted to the public, which it will be very shortly, that error will no longer appear, and 
the circumstances under which it arose will be fully accounted for and explained in the forthcoming 
work. . 

One remarkable defect which is manifested, without a single exception, in the existing histories of 
this campaign, consists in the want of good plans upon scales sufficiently comprehensive to admit of the 
positions and movements being duly illustrated. By the application of the anaglyptograph to accurately 
executed models, Captain Siborne has succeeded in producing plans of the different fields of battle, 
which afford so striking a representation of the features of ground—a representation which has all the 
appearance of the subject being shewn in relief—that not only the military man who is accustomed to 
examine plans, but the civilian who has never studied any thing of the kind, will be enabled thoroughly 
to comprehend them even in the minutest details. 

To respond to the interest felt in the record of that glorious contest by the relatives.and friends of 
the combatants, correct lists will be appended to the work, of the names of all officers who were present, 
distinguishing those who were killed or wounded. Marginal notes will also be introduced wherever 
officers’ names are first mentioned in the course of the work, explaining, if surviving, their present rank, 
and if dead, the date of their decease, and the rank which they then held. 

A work brought out under such favourable auspices, and grounded upon materials which, consider- 
ing the advanced age of the principal contributors, would at no remote period have been placed beyond 
our reach, cannot fail to excite, in a considerable degree, the attention of the public; for which reason 
no pains will be spared in rendering the illustrations fully commensurate with the value and importance 
of the design. It will comprise two handsome octavo volumes, embellished with beautifully executed 
medallic portraits, and accompanied by a folio volume, containing military maps and exquisitely en- 
graved anaglyptographic plans from models expressly made by Captain Siborne, of the fields of battle of 
Quatre-Bras, Ligny, Wayre, and Waterloo. 


wan 
el ‘ vee - 4 
¥ , PROSPECTUS. 
a ara : 

i SUSSTRUIGSERS, 

he Se HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY, THE QUEEN. : 

agi? HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT, K.G.; G.C.B. 
Pe. HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY, QUEEN ADELAIDE. 
oar taee HER ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUCHESS OF KENT. 

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS, THE DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE, K.G.; G.C.B.; G.C.H. 

Ryd aid HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS, PRINCE GEORGE OF CAMBRIDGE, K.G. 
© cae _ HIS MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY, THE KING OF HANOVER, K.G.; G.C.B.; G.C.H. 
Rerpe HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS, THE CROWN PRINCE OF HANOVER. 
eye? hs: HIS MAJESTY, THE KING OF PRUSSIA. 
ert ied HIS MAJESTY, THE KING OF SWEDEN. 

Pert 1 HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE CROWN PRINCE OF SWEDEN. 


™ 
. oot General the Marquess of Anglesey,K.G.,G.C.B., G.C.H. 
___ His Grace the Duke of Bedford. 
__ His Grace the Duke of Buccleugh. 
. * General Bacon, Portuguese Service. 
wn Colonel Bainbrizge, C.B., D.Q.M.G. 
- The Earl of Bandon. 
~ * Lieut.-Colonel Barton, K.H. 12th Lancers. 
# * Colonel Thomas Hunter Blair, C.B., Unatt. 
_ Lieut.-Gen. the Hon. Sir Edw. Blakeney, K ave G.C.H. 
- Lieut.-Gen. Lord Bloomfield, G.C.B., G.C.H 
His Excellency Baron du Brunow, the Russian Minister. 
’ Lieut.-General Sir John Buchan, K.C.B. 
__. Lieut.-General Sir John Cameron, K.C.B, 
a ui Major-General Sir Guy Campbell, Bart. K.C.B. 
~ Major-General Sir Octavius Carey, C.B., K.C.H. 
Lieut.-Colonel Cator, Royal Horse Artillery. 
. -* Colonel Chatterton, K.H. Commanding 4th Drag. Guards. 
se Lieut.-Col. Sir Chas. Chichester, Commanding 81st Regt. 
Lieut.-Colonel Clarke, Commanding 2nd (R.N.B.) Drgs. 
' Major-General Cleland. 
_ Major Henry Clements, late of the 16th Regt. 
# ‘General Sir George Cockburne, G.C.H. 
’ Major William H. Cockburne, late of the 9th Regt. 
_ * William Crawford, Esq. 2nd (R.N.B.) Dragoons. 
_ * Lieut.-Colonel John Crowe, K.H., Unatt. 
"His Excellency Earl de Grey, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. 
- The Marquess of Downshire. K. St. P. 
Major-General D’Aguilar, C.B. 
Lieut.-General Sir Charles Dalbiac, K.C.H. 
__ General Sir Ralph Darling, G.C.H. 
* Major-General Sir Jeremiah Dickson, K.C.B. 
' Lieut.-General Dickson, Royal Artillery. 
The Earl of Donoughmore, K.P. 
-* Lient.-Colonel Dorville, C.B. Unatt. 
_* Major-General Sir Neil Douglas, K.C.B., K.C.H. 
_* Major Edward Ward Drewe. 
_ * Captain N. F. Dromgoole, h. p. 35th Regt. 
be * Colonel Berkeley Drummond, Scots Fusilier Guards. 
-* Colonel Dyneley, C.B., Royal Horse Artillery. 
- The Right Hon. Lord Eliot. 
Fag Lieut.-General Sir De Lacy Evans, K.C.B. 
_ Captainthe Hon. C. W. Forester, 12th Lancers, A.D.C. 
_ * Lieut.-Colonel Gawler, K.H., Unatt. 
_* Captain E. Gilborne, late of the 71st Regt. 
* Lieut.-Colonel Grove. 
. * Lieut.-General Lord Greenock, K.C.B. 
* Colonel the Lord Viscount Guillamore, Unatt. 
_ * Major-General Hamerton, C.B. 
'* Lieut.-General the Rt. Hon. Sir Henry Hardinge, K.C.B. 
-* Lieut.-General Lord Harris, C B., K.C.H. 
-* The late General Lord Viscount ‘Hill, G.C.B., G.C.H. 
* Colonel George W. Horton, Unatt. 
- Colonel Sir George Hoste, C.B. Royal Engineers. 
- * Captain W. Humbley, h.p. Rifle Brigade. 
_ * Lieut.-Colonel Edward Keane, Unatt. 
_* Colonel Clark Kennedy, C.B., K.H. Commanding 7th 
Dragoon Guards. 
_ * Colonel James Shaw Kennedy, C.B., Unatt. 
* Captain Kincaid, late of the Rifle Brigade. 


7 


His Grace the Duke of Leinster, K.G. 
* Charles Lake, Esq. late of the Scots Fusilier Guards, 
* General Sir John Lambert, G.C.B. 
* Lieut.-Colonel Leach, late of the Rifle Brigade. 
_ * Lieut.-Colone* Francis La Blanc, Unatt. 


HIS MAJESTY THE KING OF SAXONY. 
HIS SERENE HIGHNESS, THE REIGNING DUKE OF BRUNSWICK. 
HIS SERENE HIGHNESS, THE PRINCE BERNHARD OF SOLMS-BRAUNFELS. 


_ * Colonel Charles King, K.H., late of 16th Light Dragoons. 


Captain the Hon. James Lindsay, Grenadier Guards. 
General Sir Evan Lloyd, K.C.H. 

* Lieut.-Colonel Louis, Royal Artillery. 

General the Honourable Sir Wm. Lumley, G.C.B. 
General Sir Fitzroy Maclean, Bart. 
Colonel Mansell, K.H., A.A.G. 

* Lieut.-Colonel Marten, ‘Commanding Ist Dragoons. 
The Lord Viscount Massareene. 

The Lord Viscount Melville, K.T. 

* Lieut.-Colonel A. C. Mercer, Royal Artillery. 

* Major-General Douglas Mercer, C.B. 

* Lieutenant-Colonel Monins, Commanding 69th Rest. 
Lieut.-Colonel H. Morrieson. 

Colonel Sir George Morris. 

Colonel Monro, K.H., Royal Artillery. 

General the Right Hon. Sir George Murray,G.C.B.,G.C.H. 
Sir William Keith Murray, Bart. 

* Major-General the Honourable Henry Murray, C.B. 

* Lieut.-Colonel Muttlebury, C.B., late of 69th Regt. 
His Grace the Duke of Northumberland, K.G. 
Major-General William F, P. Napier, C.B. 

The Marquess of Ormonde. 
Colonel Sir Charles O’Donnell, Unatt. 

* Major-General O’ Malley, C.B. 

Major-General the Hon. Sir Hercules Pakenham, K.C.B. 
General the Hon. Sir Edward Paget, G.C.B. 

* Frederick Hope Pattison, Esq., late 33rd Regiment. 
Captain Lord Frederick Paulet, Coldstream Guards. 
The Right Honourable Sir Robert Peel, Bart. 

Ms General Sir George Quentin, C.B., K. ‘CH. 

* His Grace the Duke of Richmond, K.G. 

* Major Reid, late 33rd Regiment. 

* Colonel'T. W Robbins, h.p. 18th Regiment. 

* Colonel William Rowan, C.B., A.Q.M. Gen. 
Captain Lord Cosmo Russell, 93rd Highlanders, A.D.C. 
Lieut.-General Shortall. 

* Lieut.-General Sleigh, C.B. 

* Major-General J. Webber Smith, C.B. 

* Lieut.-General Lord Fitzroy Somerset, K.C.B. 
Lieut.-Colonel Spottiswoode, h. p. 7ist Regt. 

* Colonel Stawell, Commanding 12th Lancers. 

* General Lord Strafford, G.C.B., G.C.H. 
Lieut.-General the Honourable Patrick Stuart. 

* The late Lieut.-General Lord Vivian, G.C.B., G.C.H. 
Colonel Wade, C.B., D.A. Gen. 

Major-General J. Welsh. 

* Colonel Whinyates, C.B., K.H., Royal Artillery. 
Colonel the Earl of Wiltshire. 

* Lieut.-General Sir Alexander Woodford, K.C.B., K.C.H 

* Major-General Sir John Woodford, K.C.B., K.C.H. 

* Colonel Yorke, Assist. Q. M. Gen. 


Officers of the Depét of the 27th Regt. (1 capy.) 
Officers of the Depot of the 30th Regt. (1 copy.) 
Officers of the Depot of the 47th Regt. (1 copy.) 
Officers of the Depét of the 64th Rest. (4 copies.) 
Officers of the Depot of the 65th Regt. { (4 copy.) 
Officers of the Depét of the 95th Regt. (1 copy.) 
Serjeants of the 15th Regt. (1 copy.) 
Non-commissioned Officers Library, Royal Artillery, 

Woolwich (1 copy.) 
The Military Library of the Troops of Brunswick (1 eopy.) 
The Bombay Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society (1 copy.) 
Barnstapie Book Club (1 copy.) 
St. George’s pia Bocieyy, Bolton re copy:) 

&e. 


The Officers marked with an asterisk (*) were at iin 


OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 


“Tt is written in a free and impartial manner, is lucid in its descriptions, surprisingly correct in 
details, and many important features of the campaign, which have hitherto remained either wholly 
unnoticed, or else kept too much in shadow, are now brought forward into proper relief; whilst the 
grand military operations of the period are delineated with the pen of an enlightened soldier. In a 
word, by separating, with much discrimination, the gold from the dross, he has turned to excellent 
account the materials for his undertaking, which seem to have flowed to him from every quarter; and 
the consequence is, that a standard history has been produced, remarkable for its spirit and vigour, as 
well as for its truth.”—U. S. Journal. 


“ We hail this work as a standard history of the Battle of Waterloo and of the Campaign of 
Flanders—a worthy companion and sequel to the Peninsular Campaigns of Napier. A compilation 
from the testimonies of eye-witnesses (as this is) had they been dressed up for publication, and subjected 
individually to the public judgment, would have been cold and lifeless; here all is freshness, vivacity, 
unaffected truth ; and thus is explained the very superior style of the writer, who possesses a nerve 
and spring of thought and a brilliant colouring of phrase, combined with a transparent clearness of 
expression, such as is rarely attained by the purely literary writer, and seldom, if ever, found in con- 
nection with profound, professional, and practical knowledge, as in this work. The most intimately 
acquainted with the scenery and incidents of the days of June, 1815, are loudest and most decided in 
their admiration of the plans and portraits which embellish these volumes. The ground is engraved by 
a peculiar progress, which represents in relief the slightest elevation, and sinks the smallest depression 
by the peculiar curve and measure of the line. Thus, the spectator looks down upon the ground of the 
battle itself with the clear perception of all its undulations, and its every variety of form and aspect. 
A second, and very different process, to which the plate is then subject, places in their positions the 
troops exactly as they occupied the field. These speaking plans have an accuracy hitherto unimagined, 
with an effect which is unequalled by any previous attempt. There are portraits of the Heroes of the 
campaign, which have as much merit as novelty—being engraved medallions—perfect portraits in high 
relief.” —Naval and Military Gazette. 


“* The eventful victory which these two splendid volumes are intended to commemorate has had 
many historians, but none so good or comprehensive as Captain Siborne. His facility of access to official 
_ documents, both English and foreign, the assistance which he has received from the surviving Waterloo 

heroes of all ranks, and the zeal, energy, and talent, which he has displayed in the construction of his 

materials, have produced a record, not only of the battle itself, but of the whole Waterloo campaign, 
which is likely to be as enduring as it is creditable to his talents as a writer, and his reputation as a 
soldier, For ourselves we heartily thank Captain Siborne for his spirited volumes,and sincerely do we 
hope they will meet their due reward. Of this we are certain, they cannot be too soon in the hands, 
not only of every Officer of the Service, but also of every civil member of the community.”—United 
Service Gazette. 


** We cannot feel our debt acquitted to Captain Siborne for the pleasure and instruction his work has 
afforded us, if we did not bring our unqualified testimony to the minute accuracy of detail, the highly 
honourable and soldier-like spirit,and the admirable candour and fairness by which it is everywhere 
characterized. When the work was first announced for publication, we conceived great expectations 
from a history compiled by one whose access to every source of information was favoured both by 
interest in the highest quarters, and the circumstances of an official appointment on the staff. We were 
not disappointed. Such are the volumes before us—a Military Classic—and they will remain so while 
Waterloo is a word to stir the heart and nerve the arm of a British soldier.”—Dublin University, May. 


“ This work is precisely what such a publication should be, a fair, impartial compilation of well 
authenticated testimony relative to the great events to which it has reference, interspersed with such 
reflections as have appeared to the author to be needful for the guidance of his unprofessional readers.”’ 

Morning Post. 


“This History possesses all the minute matter of fact accuracy of a gazette, combined with a vivid 
and glowing power of description scarcely inferior even to Colonel Napier’s admirable “¢ History of the-_ 
Peninsular War,” and we know not that we can give it higher praise; moreover, we will venture to 
assert, that of all the careful and circumstantial descriptions of this campaign, none will give so 
distinct, vivid, and correct idea of its character as these eleven Maps.”— Sun. 


“We can declare in all sincerity that we have perused his narrative of marches and onslaughts 
with infinite satisfaction. He tells his tale with singular clearness. He is at home in all the varied 
movements and changes of position, &c.; and his account of Cavalry Charges, especially in the affair 
of Quatre Bras, the advance of columnsand cannonading, sweep you onwards as if the scene described — 
were actually passing under your eyes. His Plans and Charts too are excellent, and every way worthy 
of the modellist of the Field of Waterloo. We thank Captain S., not only for the amusement we have 
derived from his performance, but for the opportunity with which the appearance of a genuine English 
History of the Battle of Waterloo supplies us, of refuting some of the errors regarding it into which 
other historians have fallen.” —Fraser’s Mag. 


2 


PUBLISHED BY T. & W. BOONE, 29, NEW BOND STREET, LONDON; 
AND SOLD BY ' 
OLIVER anD BOYD, anv FRASER anv Co. EpinsurGu; AND J. CUMMING, DuBLIN. 


” 


— ee a © 


: “VAVEVELLOS WsaAR SUA NO 
apy yh Sie io fi ey y Ly 


we TTL 


NARRATIVE 


OF THE 


SURVEYING VOYAGE OF H.M.S. FLY, 


COMMANDED BY 


CAPTAIN F, P. BLACKWOOD, R.N. 


IN 


TORRES STRAIT, NEW GUINEA, AND OTHER ISLANDS 
OF THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, 


DURING THE YEARS 1842-1846: 


TOGETHER WITH 


AN EXCURSION 


INTO THE 


INTERIOR OF THE EASTERN PART OF JAVA. 


BY 


J. BEETE JUKES, M.A. F.G.S. 


NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION, 
AUTHOR OF ‘* EXCURSIONS IN NEWFOUNDLAND.” 


Published by permission of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. 


IN TWO VOLUMES. UE, 


VOL. Ii. 


LONDON: 
T.& W. BOONE, NEW BOND STREET. 
1847. 


CONTENTS OF VOL. II. 


CHAPTER I. 


PAGE 


Start on a tour into the in!erior—Visit a sugar establishment— Arrive 
at Passarouan—Visit iron foundry—Blue water spring—Native 
market— Arrive at Probolingo—Size of the towns and populousness 
of the country—Government stores—Basin and canal—Beautiful 
prospect—Set off on horseback—Fine country—Coffee plantations 
—Arrival at Klakka—Beautiful situation—Geological structure— 
Shooting excursion—Tigers—Magnificent views— Luxurious living 


CHAPTER II. 


Ride from Klakka to Lamajang —Beautiful situation of the Passan- 
gerang—Sumowijoyoh Rongo de Lamajang—Disturb a tiger—Ride 
to Tampa—Laut Kedul, or the southern sea—‘ Gamélang,” or 
native bands—Dancing girls—Aspect of the mountains—Daily 
thunder-storm in the afternoon—Commencement of the N.W. 
monsoon—Ride to Kedimangan—Luxurious living— Magnificent 
forests on tke mountains—Arrive at Lodo Ombo—Aspect of a 
mountain village—Manners of the people more independent than in 
the plains ‘ : : ; 


CHAPTER III. 


Extreme cold of 50° Fahr.—Climb up the mountain—View from theIder 
Ider—The Sandy Sea and the Bromo— Wonosari— Tosari— Descrip- 
tion of a mountain house—View of the Arjuno and the plain of 
Sourabaya—Ride down to Pakis—Obsequiousness of the Widono— 
Ruins of Djago and Kedal—Ride to Malang. 


CHAPTER IV. 


Cigar manufactory—Ruins of Singha Sari— Native markets—Batu— 
Hot well— Antang— Pleasant and fertile situation — Excellent 
horses—Solitary ride down the valley— Wonosalam—Valley of the 


E™% ask ibe x a 
odd a U 


63 


1V 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 


Kediri—Distant mountains—Majoago— Mortality among the horses 
—Ruins of Majopahit—Arrive at Majokerto—Locks on the Kediri— 
Return to Sourabaya : : : 


CHAPTER V. 


The citadel and defences of Sourabaya—Visit Gresik and some ancient 


tombs—Animal of a bivalve shell changed into a bird—Visit to the 
Sultan of Bankalang—tTiger fight—Dramatic representation — Fever 
and its effects—Gonung Sari—Islands of recent limestone—Forma- 
tion of the Delta of the Kediri—Customs common to the Javanese 
and the South-sea Islanders 


CHAPTER VI. 


Notes on the Government of Java—Aristocratic constitution of Dutch 


Chambers produces an arbitrary Colonial Government— Governor- 
General and Council—Maatschappy (company or factory) strict 
commercial monopoly—Dutch possessions in the East Indies— 
Internal government of Java—Division into Residences—Subordinate 


. 100 


. 134 


native and European officers—Per centage on produce—Native . 


courts of justice—Adjustment of land tax—Other taxes—Forced 
labour rates—Duties on imports—Europeans in Java—No foreigners 
allowed to reside—effects of the government system on Europeans— 
Effects on natives—Chain of citadels—Probable results of a change 
of system—Note on the sugar cultivation 


CHAPTER VII. 


Leave Java—Pass the Strait of Bali—Unable to stem the current in 


the Strait of Lombock—Dirty weather—Enter Alass Strait—Drifted 
by the current—Land at Segar— Boundary of two descriptions of 
country—Return to Alass Strait—Land at Pejar—Procure refresh- 
ments—Civil treatment of the people—Information concerning the 
Sassacks— Dutch expedition against Bali—Friendly treatment of our 
boat’s crew at Laboa’jee—See Mount Tumboro—Beautiful view of 
Lombock Peak 


CHAPTER VIII. 


Islands of Kangalang and Lubeck—Banca—Singapore—Malacca— 


Pleasant aspect—Good character of People—Tin Mines—Boukit 
Timah—Geological observations in Malacca and Singapore—Strait 
of Sunda—Anjer—Geological sketch of the Indian Archipelago— 
Concluding observations on the character and capabilities of the 
Malay nations 


. 166 


. 195 


» 213 


APPENDIX. 


‘ia No. I.—Captain Blackwood’s Sailing Orders . : . 255 


No. II.—Abstract of the Voyage Fe - 263 
7 ee No. Ill _—Comparative Vocabulary of the Languages of some parts of 
“Vie Torres Strait. : : ‘ . 274 

No. IV.—On the General Affinities of the Taerenaue of the Oceanic _ 

Blacks. By Dr.Latham ._ : : . S19 

No. V.—Heights of various points along the N.E. coast of Auteur 
in Torres Strait . . 321 

No. VI.—Notes on the Character of the Skeleton ve a Dugong. 
By Professor Owen . ‘ . 323 

No. VII. —Description of a new Genus of Snakes. By J. E. Ge 
Esq., F.R.S. - . E - 332 

Pio. VIII.—Description of a new Genus, and five new Species of 
Crustacea. By Adam White, F.LS. . A - 335 


No. 1X.—The Description of some new Species of Starfishes, Aste- 
ee ser. riade. By J. E. Gray, Esq. F.R.S. . 3 . 339 
__-No. X.—Deseription of some new Species of Marine Shells. By 

my J. E.Gray, Esq. F.R.S. : : . 355 


fe 


wae : he 


yee 
i 


LIST. OF PLATES. 


VOE:. IT; 


On the River at Sourabaya 
——— Singapore 

- Group of Malays : 

Duppa, Mammoos, and Seewai 

Doodegab, &e. 

Jaw of Dugong 

Skull of ditto 

Blade Bone of ditto 

Hypotrophis Jukesii 

Cymopolia Jukesii 

Marine Shells, Plate I. 

Plate IT. 


Frontisyece. 


to face 214 
to face 235 
to face 286 
to face 237 
~ 3825 
327 

328 

to face 334 
to face 337 
to face 355 
to face 358 


Map of the Eastern End of the Island of Java. 


; 
F ; ‘ 


: Oye Pe 


Now ready, iv 1 vol. 8vo. with Maps, Plates, and Wood-cuts, 
SOUTH AUSTRALIA and its MINES, 


WITH AN ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN GREY’S GOVERNMENT. 


By FRANCIS DUTTON, Ksa. 


T. & W. Boones, Publishers, 29, New Bond Street. 


t 
) 
{ 


ot 


mo Le GE OF WE 2 LY. 


CHAPTER I. 


START ON A TOUR INTO THE INTERIOR—VISIT A SUGAR 
ESTABLISHMENT—ARRIVE AT PASSAROUAN—VISIT IRON — 
FOUNDRY — BLUE WATER SPRING — NATIVE MARKET— 
ARRIVE AT PROBOLINGO— SIZE OF THE TOWNS AND 
POPULOUSNESS OF THE COUNTRY GOVERNMENT STORES 
—BASIN AND CANAL—BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT—SET OFF ON 
HORSEBACK — FINE COUNTRY— COFFEE PLANTATIONS— 
ARRIVAL AT KLAKKA-—— BEAUTIFUL SITUATION —GEOLO- 
GICAL STRUCTURE — SHOOTING EXCURSION — TIGERS— 
MAGNIFICENT VIEWS—LUXURIOUS LIVING. 


Nov. 9,1844.— ALTHOUGH the necessary passports 
had not yet all arrived, we determined to set off 
this morning, and let them be sent after us. Our 
party consisted of Captain Blackwood, Mr. Evans, 
Mr. Hill (a gentleman from Mr. Fraser’s office), and 
his servant, and myself. Mr. Hill spoke Malay, 
and his servant, who was a Bengalee, spoke both 
Malay and Javanese. We were obliged to encumber 
ourselves with a good deal of baggage, as it was 
necessary to take cloth clothes for the cold weather 

VOL. I. B 


QO We ROADS AND POST HOUSES. 


on the mountains, and dress coats, in which to 
present ourselves to the authorities; accordingly, 
we found the carriage we had hired too small, 
and should have been again delayed, had not Mr. 
Darling, an American gentleman from Batavia, 
whom we met at Mr. Fraser’s, lent us his carriage 
to goas far as Passarouan. We were thus enabled 
to set off at half-past six. We had four good little 
horses, and proceeded with considerable rapidity 
along an excellent level road, reaching the second 
post-house in an hour and a quarter. These post- 
houses are from five to seven pauls apart, or about 
six miles on the average.* At each of these post- 
houses there is a large wooden shed, stretching 
completely across the road, to shelter the horses 
and travellers from the sun while the horses are 
changed. The carriage road is broad and hard, 
and raised two or three feet above the level of the 
country, with an inferior road at the side for the 
native carts and waggons. The country thus far 
seemed very populous, as we had already passed 
several large villages and two markets. The latter 
were held at open spaces, where cross roads came 
into the main line; they were crowded with people, 
and with piles of fruit, fish, both fresh and dried, 
and other commodities. The country, hereabouts, 
is very flat, and scarcely above the level of the sea. 
Large open tracts were under cultivation with rice 


* The Javanese paul equals 1652°3 English yards, so that 17 
pauls are very nearly 16 statute miles. 


SUGAR MANUFACTORY. 3 
/ 


or sugar-cane, interspersed with large patches and 
belts of wood. These looked like pieces of jungle 
left uncleared, but were in fact villages, the houses 
of which were concealed by groves of fruit-trees. 
At about fourteen miles from Sourabaya we stopped 
to see a sugar manufactory belonging to the Messrs. 
Vandenbruck, three Belgian gentlemen. We were 
very kindly received in a large and handsome house, 
and conducted over the establishment behind. This 
was very extensive and complete. The mill was 
set in motion by water, and the canes, after being 
crushed, are carried into the fields to dry, and 
afterwards used for fuel. The juice runs into some 
large vats, and thence into a great boiler, where 
quick-lime is added to it while boiling, to throw up 
the scum and refuse, which swims in a thick crust 
at the top. It comes out thence pretty clear, and 
runs into other vats, where animal charcoal (burnt 
bones) is added, and it afterwards passes through 
great tubs of that substance, by which it is filtered. 
After passing through one or two processes of this 
kind, it is admitted into pans where it is rapidly 
boiled till ready to crystallize. This is the most 
delicate part of the process, and was superintended 
by a Chinese, who judged of the exact moment by 
repeatedly taking a little on a stick, and dipping it 
into cold water. When ready, it is drained off into 
large pots, where it is left to crystallize and cool. 
Wet clay is then spread over these pots, the water 
from which gradually drains through the sugar, 
B2 


4, SYSTEM OF SUGAR FACTORY. 


and carries off the molasses and other impurities 
through holes in the bottom. The sugar is then 
spread out in the sun to dry, after which it is packed 
in baskets for shipment. Some of the clayed 
sugar which. Mr. Vandenbruck shewed us, was as 
white as snow in the upper part of the pot, but 
it gradually got darker towards the lower ex- 
tremity. 

The production of sugar, to any extent, is of 
recent origin in Java, and may be said to be the act 
of the Dutch Government. 

Private property in land is a thing unknown in 
Java, except in the case of some estates acquired 
during the English occupancy, between the years 
1811 and 1816. In the year 1832, Governor Van 
den Bosch, in order to encourage sugar-growing, 
adopted the following system. The Government 
entered into a contract with any individual, whether 
Dutchman or foreigner, who was willing to become 
a sugar manufacturer, and agreed to advance him 
money to erect his mill and other buildings, and 
lease him a site for the same, and to cause the 
surrounding fields to be planted with sugar-cane 
by the natives, on condition that all the sugar 
produced was sold to Government at certain rates. 
The money advanced was to be repaid by instal- 
ments, and at the end of the contract the buildings 
were to be taken by Government at a valuation. 
The settler thus had no need of capital, but merely 
of a certain amount of intelligence, industry, and 


SUGAR CONTRACTS. 5 


knowledge of his business. The Government 
undertook to plant the canes and superintend their 
culture, and to ensure the supply of a certain 
quantity te the mill, as also to provide coolies and 
servants for the work in the establishment, the only 
payment by the contractor being a rate of 33 rupees 
on every picul of sugar produced, in order to re- 
imburse the Government for the cane and the price 
of labour. This was, of course, in addition to the 
gradual repayment, without interest, of the money 
advanced to enable him to erect his house and 
buildings.* The contract was generally entered into 
for twenty years, and in the first contracts the prices 
given for the sugar produced were so extremely 
favourable that every contractor made large profits. 
Very few Dutchmen, however, engaged in the 
business at first, but principally English and Chi- 
nese,{ masters of country ships and other traders, 
who happened to be on the spot. Gradually, as the 
manufacture became established, and the resident 
- Dutchmen began to enter into it, the contracts, espe- 
cially those granted to foreigners, became less 
favourable, and a more recent regulation of the 
Government actually prohibited all foreigners what- 
soever from owning, holding, or renting land, or 
even from residing in the country, unless they shall 


* See a more detailed account of the sugar cultivation in Java 


at the end of chapter 6th. 
+ By arecent edict, Chinese are prohibited for the future from 
becoming “ sugar-fabricants.” 


6 PORRONG HILL. 


have been naturalised as Dutch subjects previously 
to the passing of the act.* 

After spending an hour or more at Mr, Vanden- 
bruck’s, we proceeded to Porrong, where we crossed, 
by a bridge, a branch of the Kediri. Here were 
one or two more sugar establishments and a large 
market, while a few miles on our right rose Porrong 
Hill, a fine volcanic cone, the top of which was 
shrouded in clouds, with beautiful wooded slopes 
dipping into the flat country of the coast. At 
eleven o’clock we reached the fifth post-house (or 
wissel-post), where, for the first time, we got a bad 
team of horses, which, with some difficulty, took us 
two miles, when we found others waiting for us by 
the road side. We here rose onto a low range of 
undulating ground striking from the base of Porrong 
Hill, and changed the rich cultivation of the flats 
for a brown, barren-looking tract, like the hills near 
Gressik. I could not see any section exposed, but, 
from pieces of stone by the roadside containing 
recent shells, I believe this is a ridge of recent lime- 
stone. A small valley traversed this tract, with a 
» dry water-course. About half an hour after noon, 
we entered Passarouan, having been only six hours 


* This edict was issued in 1834, previously to which time any 
European, by applying and paying about 10/. for stamps, swear- 
ing, at the same time, fidelity to the Governor, as representative 
of the King of Holland, and obedience to the laws of the colony, 
could receive full privileges as acitizen, could own ore. and 
travel to any part of the island he liked. 


err. ag a lil 


TOWN OF PASSAROUAN. 7 


coming forty miles, including stoppages. Passa- 
rouan was a much larger place than we at all ex- 
pected, having several wide streets, which, besides 
the native kampongs, were lined in the centre of the 
town with Chinese houses in court-yards, large mer- 
chants’ stores, and European residences, having 
lawns and carriage drives. The native Javanese 
all reside in separate kampongs, or quarters, each of 
which is surrounded by a fence, either of bamboo 
paling or a wall: to these there is often not more 
than one entrance gate. In these kampongs their 
bamboo houses seem to be scattered indiscriminately 
under the shade of bananas, cocoa-nuts, and other 
fruit-trees, and of bamboos and plants useful in their 
buildings. There is a native headman in each 
kampong, who is responsible to the next higher 
native authority for the good behaviour of its inha- 
bitants. ‘The Javanese seldom change their kam- 
pong, although not absolutely tied to it by any legal 
regulation. 

We drove to Mr. M‘Clelland’s to breakfast, after 
which we went out to a small place called Sama- 
rangan, where this gentleman had an iron foundry. 
Here we found many native workmen forging or 
casting iron machinery, principally for the sugar- 
mills. They make very good blacksmiths, which is 
esteemed a very honourable profession among them.* 

In the evening we called upon the Secretary of 


* In the Friendly Islands that of a carpenter is esteemed the 
most honourable employment of all mechanical arts. 


8 DIFFICULTY ABOUT PASSPORTS. 


the residency, the Resident being at his country- 
house on the hills. We found the Secretary also 
was from home. ‘The only military force at Passa- 
rouan was a party of fifty native troops, under the 
command of a first lieutenant. 


Our pass had not yet arrived, but on consultation, - 


we determined to go on next day to Probolingo and 
take our chance. It appeared from what we heard 
this evening that some of the authorities were rather 
puzzled how to act with regard to us. Our going 
into the country at all, without an order from the 
Governor-General, was quite contrary to all rules, 


and even to actual laws. Masters of merchant ves- — 


sels who wished to go merely to Passarouan on busi- 
ness from Sourabaya and back again, had been re- 
fused permission ; as we, however, belonged to a 
man-of-war, the regulations were relaxed in our 
favour. The Resident of Sourabaya, moreover, was 
a liberal man, and a favourite at head-quarters, and 
did as he pleased. The Resident of Besuki, also, 
in which Probolingo is situated, was described as a 
liberal person, with whom we should have no diffi- 
culty. It appeared, however, that the Resident of 
Passarouan was more one of the old school, and 
moreover, was rather afraid of losing his post, as his 
is the richest residency in the island. His salary, 
indeed, is only 1,500/. per annum, but it appears 
that each Resident* has a per centage on the 


* As also every other officer—native and Dutch. 


_ 


: 


ee ee ee Se 


‘ a wre 


= — 


RESIDENCY OF PASSAROUAN. 9g 


amount of produce—such as coffee, sugar, tobacco, 
rice, &c.—raised in his district ; and as Passarouan 
is very fertile, the Resident derives 50,000 rupees, 
about 3,400/. per annum from this source. This 
residency is therefore an object of envy and ambi- 
tion, and of no little intrigue in consequence. Now 
the present Resident must either directly break the 
law in facilitating our passage through his district, 
or he must refuse when his neighbours have com- 
plied, and for doing something like this, in the case 
of the captain of a French man-of-war, he got a re- 
primand from his government last year. In either 
case he feared advantage would be taken in some 
way to dispossess him of his post. We were a good 
deal surprised at this little piece of secret history, 
and thought the best way would be to cut the 
Gordian knot at once, by pushing on into the next 
residency, and leaving the authorities to settle our 
passes as they pleased. 

Nov. 10.—We set off this morning at six o’clock, 
in an open carriage, through a country similar to 
that we had traversed yesterday, but still more rich 
and highly cultivated, while, through the groves of 
cocoa-nuts and areca-palms and other trees that 
bordered the road, we got glimpses of a fine range 
of mountains on our right, that added interest and 
variety to the scenery. We reached the first wissel- 
post in an hour, a little beyond which we turned off 
to the right up a cross road to visit a famous spring, 
called the ‘“‘ Blue water.”’ This cross road led us 


10 RICE CULTIVATION. 


for about five miles directly towards the foot of the 
hills, the ground gradually rising and undulating a 
little, but still completely cultivated to the very 
foot of the mountains. ‘The crops were sugar- 
cane, maize, some of which was in flower, and rice. 
The latter was to be seen in almost all stages, some 
of the fields being fallow, in some the crop was 
half-grown, while in others it was just springing up. 
The rice fields are peculiar, from their being divided 
into many small square plots, or pans, as it were, 
about ten yards in the side, bounded by small ridges 
of earth eighteen inches high. These ridges are 
for retaining the water, which is always kept two or 
three inches deep over the roots of the grain till it is 
just ready to ripen. On every slope these little 
embankments are still more numerous, the greatest 
care being taken not to lose a drop of water more 
than is absolutely necessary. The half-grown rice 
looked something like short oats. In some of the 
fields, where either rice or maize was coming into 
ear, small sheds were erected on posts in the centre 
of the field, from which strings radiated in every 
direction over the crop, with feathers attached to 
them. A boy or a girl was stationed in the shed to 
keep the strings in motion, in order to frighten 
away the flocks of Java sparrows, many of which 
were careering about in large flights over the fields. 
We saw several of the little plots in which the rice 
or paddy is first set. In some of these it was spring- 
ing up as close as possible, looking like close grass. 


: 


ne catia ele | Maas 


fe eg ee a Ne ee ee ee 


oo 


THE BLUE WATER SPRING. 11 


From these plots it is transplanted into the fields, 


“women setting each plant separately by hand in 


rows as regularly as drilled wheat. What would an 
English farmer think of having to transplant a few 
hundred acres of wheat ? 

When almost at the foot of the hills we stopped 
at a small wood, in which we found a circular pool 
of water, some thirty yards across, with a cottage 
and alcove on one side, to undress under, and steps 
leading to the water. The water was perfectly 
clear, and, in the deep parts, of a beautiful light 
blue. It was full of very fine fish, like mullet, 
which could be seen at a depth of fifteen or twenty 
feet, and on the opposite bank we could see black 
monkeys peeping at us from among the trees. At 
the first plunge the water felt intensely cold, but 
after keeping a thermometer three feet under water 
for fifteen minutes, it only fell to ‘74°, the tempera- 
ture of the air under the alcove being at the same 
time 79°. From the Blue water we returned to the 
main road, on the opposite side of which was a large 
market crowded with people. We went to examine 
it, and found rows of stalls or long sheds, in some 
of which European articles, such as cutlery or dra- 
pery were exposed; in others were drugs, while 
others had fruit, or confectionary, or salt fish. 
Neither was there any want of present refreshment, 
as some of the stalls had benches before them, on 
which sat people drinking coffee, eating boiled rice, 
hot sweet potatoes, fruit, and sweetmeats. The 


12 TOWN OF PROBOLINGO. ~ 


people here all spoke Javanese, and but few under- 
stood Malay, so that we found Hill’s servant, Yacoob, 
very useful as an interpreter. 

From this place to Probolingo the road was in 
many places heavy and sandy, and we got one or 
two very poor sets of horses, so that we proceeded 
with difficulty, and sometimes were obliged to walk. 
The country passed through also was in many 
places less rich than usual, as we came close upon 


the sea and its marshes. We reached Probolingo 


about noon, and were again surprised at the extent 
of a place we had never heard of till a day or two 
before. Broad roads, with avenues of lofty trees, 
intersected each other at right angles, bounded by 
the fences of the native kampongs, which looked 
like large orchards. Here and there were European 
houses of good size and appearance, each in its own 
erounds, with a carriage drive under the trees. We 
drove up to a very comfortable hotel, clean and well 
kept, but the master of which spoke little or no 
English. 

Our first care was to see the Assistant-resident, 
but we found he was out of town, and would not 
return till next day. Captain Blackwood and Hill 
then drove out to call on Mr. Etty (brother of the 
celebrated artist of that name), who had a large 
sugar establishment about three miles off. Mr. 
Etty, senior, was in England, but his sons came 
down to the hotel in the evening to offer us any 
assistance in their power. ‘They had been out wild 


a 4 


a ee ee 


ES eS ree Se See 


> - , = 


GOVERNMENT STORES. 18 


“pig shooting, at a place called Rongo Jalan, about 


seven miles from Probolingo, and described the 
sport as excellent, having killed thirteen that after- 


noon. As we must of necessity remain here, to see 


the Assistant-resident, we agreed to accompany them 
the following afternoon. 

Nov. 11.—After a bath and a cup of coffee before 
sunrise, we walked down towards the sea. A broad 
road, sheltered by lofty trees, led to a large open 
square covered with a fresh green expanse of ex- 
cellent turf. On one hand was the mosque, and 
on the other a large court, containing the house of 
the Regent or native chief of the place. Opposite 
us was a large walled building, forming the barracks 
for the troops, of which not more than thirty-five 
are usually posted here; while another side of the 
square was occupied by a market crowded with 
people, and in which large piles of beautiful melons, 
for which Probolingo is celebrated, caught our 
attention. Beyond the barracks, we came to the 
government storehouses, a range of buildings form- 
ing three sides of a square, in the centre of which 
is a basin, faced with masonry. From this a canal 
has been carried out to sea into the deep water, 
between two piers 14 mile long. The piers were 
broad, and formed of blocks of coral, and faced on 
the inside with brick and stucco, with stone steps 
here and there down to the water’s edge. The 
canal was twenty yards wide, and deep enough for 
large cargo boats. There were no vessels here now, 


14 BEAUTIFUL VIEW. 


but they were expected shortly ; and the master of 
the hotel informed us, that there was sugar and 
coffee enough now in the storehouses to load twenty 
large ships. The shore was flat, and at low water 
shewed extensive mud-flats, nearly dry, running in 
each direction as far as we could see along the coast. 
Both the strait of Sourabaya, indeed, and all the 
Java shores hereabouts, are rapidly filling up with 
mud. In some places near Sourabaya, the water 
has shoaled as much as four feet in five years. 
Twenty or thirty years ago large frigates entered 
the strait, having a draught of water which would 
make them now unable even to approach it. 
From the pier, the view of the country in the 
morning sunlight was very beautiful. Rows and 
groves of cocoa-nuts, bananas, and other tropical 
trees, shut out almost all the town except a few 
white walls glimmering through their leaves. Still 
loftier forest trees, with dark umbrageous foliage, 
seemed to form an impervious wood behind them, 
immediately over which rose a fine broken range of 
mountains on the south-west, called the Teng’ger ; 
towards the east another range as lofty, but more 
distant, stretched away peak after peak till it was 
lost in the haze of the rising sun ; while in the valley 
between the two, clear in the cool morning air, rose 
a noble volcanic cone, called the Lamongan. 

I was informed that many Madurese had come 
over and were settled about Probolingo. Madira is 
inferior in fertility to Java, and cannot always sup- 


SS eS lhU ml Ct—<“‘“‘ ‘SOSOS™CS 


oS 


LANGUAGES OF JAVA. 15 


port its population. In addition to this, the Sultan 
of Bankalang keeps a small standing army, and I 
believe furnishes also a certain contingent of men 
to the Dutch troops in Java, and his subjects emi- 
grate to avoid this conscription. ‘The language of 
Madura is said to be harsh and difficult; that of 
Java, on the contrary, is a rather harmonious and 
fine sounding language. I learnt now, for the first 
time, from young Mr. Etty, having hitherto never 
read Sir Stamford Raffles’ History of Java, that the 
Javanese is divided into two dialects,—the high 
and the low tongue. An inferior addressing his 
superior must always speak the ‘‘ bhasa krema,” or 
polite language, using the most elegant and poetical 
terms he can think of, while the superior answers 
in the commonest and most vulgar method of 
speech.* It is not, however, simply a difference of 


* Analogies may be traced in the Polynesian Archipelago. 
See Mariner’s Tonga Islands, vol. ii. p. 84. 

Crawfurd, in his History of the Indian Archipelago, vol. ii., 
gives the following account of the languages of Java, which is 
somewhat different from, but no doubt more correct than the 
above. 

“Speech is, in fact, divided into two dialects, the ordinary 
language, and one invented to express deference and respect. 
This distinction by no means implies a court or polished lan- 
guage, opposed to a vulgar or popular one, for both are equally 
polite and cultivated, and all depends on the relations in which 
the speakers stand to each other. A servant addresses his master 
in the language of deference, a child his parent, a wife her hus- 
band if there be much disparity in their ages, and the courtier 


16 LANGUAGES OF JAVA. 


expression, but in many cases an absolute difference 
in the words; it beinga high mark of disrespect for 
an inferior to call even the commonest things by the 


his prince. The superior replies in the ordinary dialect, the 
language still affording modifications and distinctions according 
to the rank of the person he addresses, until that rank rises to 
equality, when, if no intimacy subsists between the parties, the 
language of deference is adopted by both; or if there does, 
ceremony is thrown aside, and the ordinary language becomes 
the only medium of conversation. .... . 

‘In a few words of rare occurrence no change takes place. 
Recourse in other cases is had to the recondite language of litera- 
ture, which is equivalent to the Sanskrit. .... Sometimes 
the word used in the language of deference is an entire synonym, 
differing in sound and orthography, as for ‘gawe’ to do, 
damal.” 3..." 

“‘The most frequent mode of all, is by effecting a slight 
orthographical change in words of the ordinary language. A 
termination in s, in ng, and in tan is respectful ; and it is re- 
spectful always to change a broad-sounding vowel into a more 
slender one. ‘ Maricho’ pepper, becomes by this rule ‘ mariyos;’ 
‘priyai, chief, ‘ priyantan ;’ ‘ kayu,’ wood, ‘kajang.’ ..... 


Even the names of places are in the most puzzling and provoking . 


manner, subjected to the same changes. In writing to a supe- 
rior, for instance, it would be thought ill-bred to use the usual 
words Cheribon, Garsik or Solo, the inferior would call them 
respectively Grage, Tandas, and Surakarta.” 

Of the ancient Kawi language, he remarks: ‘“ The Kawi, in 
its simplicity of structure, resembles the Javanese, but it has a 
greater variety and range of consonants and vocalic sounds 
than the popular language, is harsher in its prosody than what 
we expect in the genius of the soft tongues of the Indian 
Islanders, and seems, in short, to have in this particular a 
foreign air. In its composition it abounds in Sanskrit words — 


: 
| 
: 
| 


LANGUAGES OF JAVA. IV 


words he uses among his equals, if the polite lan- 
guage affords an equivalent term. If it does not, 
he uses as much as possible metaphorical or peri- 
phrastic expressions. 

Two equals of high rank, both use the high lan- 
guage, but it often happens that, for want of practice, 
they are inferior in elegance of speech to the lowest 
of the people who daily have intercourse with su- 
periors of some degree. Besides these two dialects, 
there is an ancient language, called the Kawi, 
which is now become a dead tongue, and exists only 
in old inscriptions, which no one understands. In 
the western half of the island, again, the Sunda lan- 
guage still lingers among the mountains, differing 


at the same time it contains many essential words of the modern 
language of Java. The opinion I am inclined to form of this 
singular language is, that it is no foreign tongue introduced 
into the island, but the written language of the priesthood, to 
whom it is probable, in early times, the use of letters was con- 
fined.” 

Of the Sunda, he remarks, that it is ‘‘ the language of the 
mountaineers of the west, or about one-tenth of the inhabitants 
of the island. It has several uncouth sounds, similar to those 
which prevail in the Celtic dialects, and that all the observa- 
tions made respecting the Sunda language apply generally to 
the rude and uncultivated dialect of Madura.” 

While this work was passing through the press, I read with 
great delight the concluding volume of Dr. Pritchard’s Researches 
into the Physical History of Mankind. (vol. v. published 1847.) 
In the first part of this volume the reader will find the whole 
subject of the Malayo-Polynesian races treated in a most admirable 
and interesting manner. 

VOL. II. Cc 


18 JAVANESE PANDOPO. 


in some respects from the common Javanese. Java, 
indeed, is properly the name of only the eastern 
part of the island, the western half being Sunda: 
people at Batavia would talk of going to Java when 
they were going to Sourabaya, or any other part of 
the eastern division of the island. ‘The Malay lan- 
guage 1s only commonly spoken in the large towns 
on the coast, especially the sea-ports; but the Dutch 
oblige all the native authorities to learn Malay, as 
it is the tongue used in all public transactions be- 
tween them. 

At eleven o’clock, hearing that the Assistant- 
resident had returned, we went to wait on him, 
and were received with great civility. He made 
quite light of the passport matter, and said it should 
be all arranged and sent after us along our route. 
We then went to call on the Regent, or native 
authority. We drove into a court-yard, in the 
centre of which was one of the great sheds so fre- 
quently used in Java, called a “ pandopo.” This is 
a roof either of tiles, or more commonly of wood, 
covered with a thatch of matting called ‘‘ atop,” 
made of the leaves of a palm, raised to a height of 
twelve or sixteen feet, on stout wooden posts or pil- 
lars, with a raised floor commonly of brick. It is 
open at the sides, except a partial railing of matting 
about three or four feet high, and sometimes blinds 
or curtains of matting or split cane are rolled up 
under the eaves, and can be let down at pleasure at 
any part, to exclude the sun or the rain. These 


Ss ee ae ht iat 


THE REGENT OF PROBOLINGO. 19 


*‘pandopos” are of all sizes, according to their 
situation and purpose. This one was about forty 
feet by thirty, and we saw lying in it a large number 
of native musical instruments, forming the Regent’s 
** gamelang,” or native band. His house was fronted 
along its whole length by a large raised verandah, 
in which were tables and chairs, and which seemed 
the usual reception room. ‘This was likewise fitted 
with blinds of small cane, which rolled up or let 
down at pleasure, and thus formed a very comfort- 
able and airy apartment. 

Soon after we were seated the Regent joined us 
from the interior of his house, dressed in a plain 
jass (a kind of dressing-gown), and a sarong, apolo- 
gising for keeping us waiting, as he had been 
suffering under low fever. He was a middle-aged 
man, rather stout, with broad, good-humoured, and 
intelligent countenance, and having very easy and 
well-bred manners. He ordered refreshments of 
fruit, cakes, and wine, the latter some of the best 
Madeira we tasted on the island, and entered into 
all our plans with great readiness. He sent for 
one of his dependants, who sat down on a mat 
before him to receive his instructions, raising his 
joined hands to his head in the attitude of supplica- 
tion at every pause. The Regent gave him his 
orders very distinctly, referring every now and then 
to Hill, who acted as our interpreter, and in a short 
time it was all arranged. He then took leave of 
us with great cordiality, wishing us a pleasant 

Cz 


20 PIG-SHOOTING EXCURSION. 


journey. It appeared that the Dutch authorities 
having granted permission for our journey, all the 
arrangements for our reception and transit were 
handed over to the native chiefs, orders being sent 
along the route we intended to pursue. After 
leaving the Regent we prepared to set out for Rongo 
Jalan on our pig-shooting excursion. We set off from 
the hotel in a very inconvenient old carriage with 
six horses, but had scarcely got a mile out of Probo- 
lingo, when our coachman, who seemed hardly equal 
to six in hand, in endeavouring to turn up a cross 
road, got his horses all in a heap, nearly overturned 
us, and broke one of the pins that secured the pole. 
We immediately sent two horses back and a man 
to bring a new pin, but in the meanwhile, a Chinese, 
passing by in a cart, who was a kind of travelling 
blacksmith, came to our assistance, and in a short 
time enabled us to proceed. We whiled away the 
time by strolling among the stalls of a small 
market-place close by, and lunching on coffee, rice- 
cakes, and bananas. When again under weigh we 
travelled several miles, till we passed a post-house, 
and came to a rough hill, when it appeared our sapient 
coachman did not know exactly where Rongo Jalan 
was. After a little time a man came who offered to 
take us across to the place, which we found to be three 
miles distant, and we sent the carriage round. ‘The 
country here was undulating, and not very rich or 
well cultivated, and we crossed several morasses 
and pools of water, arriving only a little before 


SPRING OF RONGO JALAN. Q1 


sunset at a pandopo, where we ought to have been 
three hours before. Our friends, the Ettys, were 
out, and we could hear dropping shots at some 
distance, but it was too late to join them. A pool 
of water lay on one side, with much marshy ground 
round it, but in the centre of a clear spot the surface 
boiled up with great violence from a strong spring, 
though the water was said to be 60 feet deep. By 
means of an old boat I got out to this spot, and 
found the temperature of the water 76°, that of the 
air at sunset being 84°. This spring, and that of 
the Blue water, are about an equal distance from 
the sea, and no doubt owe their origin and the 
coldness of their water to the same circumstances, 
the water sinking down from the high grounds of 
the mountains, and rising to the surface of the 
plains at the first crack it meets with. Our friends 
did not return till seven or eight o’clock, when we 
walked some distance to our carriages, and then 
drove by torchlight to Mr. Etty’s house to dinner. 
It is the custom when driving at night, both in the 
country and in the towns, for the foot-boy, who 
stands behind the carriage, to carry a long bundle 
of split bamboo, or of palm-leaves, for a torch. 
Even in Sourabaya there were few or no lamps in 
the streets. Mr. Etty’s establishment seemed large 
and handsome. ‘They entertained us at dinner 
with sporting anecdotes, and exhibited tiger skins, 
the spoils of past exploits. One of the tigers had 
been hunted and killed single-handed and on foot. 


22 SET OUT ON HORSEBACK. 


Nov. 12.— As we were now to leave the 
_ main road and travel on horseback, our baggage 
was to be carried by coolies, of which we procured 
this morning twelve or fourteen, and sent them 
forward. At nine o’clock we set out in a carriage 
which Mr. Etty had lent us to go the first post. 
The route so far was the same as we had pursued 
yesterday, turning off due south when we got a 
mile out of Probolingo. The instant we arrived at 
the first post-house a man stepped forward with a 
tray of cups of tea and glasses of cocoa-nut water, 
and rice-cakes, and we found a large party awaiting 
us with small horses or ponies. We had brought 
four English saddles with us, the native saddle 
being inconvenient for those not accustomed to it. 
Each of us found also a man on horseback ready to 
attend him and carry his gun and game-bag, and 
I got a careful man on foot to carry my mountain 
barometer. A petty chief rode before us, and another, 
with a small party, brought up the rear, so that 
we formed quite a cavalcade, although the natives, 
with their gaily-coloured dresses, blue and red 
coloured saddles, silver trappings to their horses, 
and ornamented krisses in their girdles, quite cut 
us out in appearance, with our dingy shooting 
jackets and soiled trowsers. For a mile or two we 
rode slowly up some slight ascents of rugged ground, 
bare, brown, and uncultivated, although apparently 
the soil was good; but on arriving at the summit of 
the low ridge we had a different and more beautiful 


. 
; 


ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. 93 


prospect. The country before us was gently undu- 
lating, and covered with long waving grass, inter- 
spersed with patches of wood. It looked like a 
large wide-spread park, till at some miles distance 
it rose up the slopes of the Lamongan. On the 
sides of this the woods became thicker and more 
continuous, tili they reached the bare piles of ashes 
and cinders forming the upper cone of the mountain. 
On our right the country was more abruptly broken 
into lower wooded hills, over which rose the dark 
continuous masses of the Teng’ger. Behind us lay 
the flat land of the coast, partially laid out in cul- 
tivated fields, with a belt of wood, chiefly cocoa-nuts, 
along the shore, over which we could see the sea 
and the island of Madura. It wasin the midst of the 
lovely scenery that lies round the foot of the moun- 
tains that we reached the second post-house, where 
we found a relay of horses and attendants awaiting us. 

An occasional cutting or bank by the roadside 
shewed me somewhat of the nature of the rock be- 
neath. It seemed to consist principally of beds of 
loosely compacted dark volcanic sand or ashes, 
pretty regularly laminated and stratified. I could see 
no lava, nor indeed stone of any kind, and the whole, 
to a depth of eight or ten feet, might be taken for 
vegetable soil. 

The road, although not so good as the main line, 
was a very fair one, even for wheel carriages, a few 
rough places occurring at intervals, where the ruts 
made during the rains still remained. It was broad, 


2Q4, COFFEE PLANTATIONS. 


and sheltered frequently by trees along the sides, and 
for horses it was excellent, as a broad fringe of excel- 
lent turf bordered the central carriage road for half a 
mile at a stretch. On these cross roads permanent 


relays of horsesare not kept at the post-houses, so that — 


word has to be sent along the line before the travel- 
ler, in order that the number required may be pro- 
vided by the different native authorities. We always 
found the people most obliging and attentive, and 
willing to do everything to please us. If any one 
did not like the pace of his horse, he had but to 
express his dissatisfaction, and one of the attendants 
instantly dismounted and shifted his saddle on to 
any other he might choose without an instant’s 
hesitation. 

We began now to meet with coffee plantations, 
mingled with fields of maize and small patches of 
other crops. The coffee plantations were very 
pleasant looking places. ‘The coffee shrubs are 
planted in rows, with tall trees between each row 
to shelter the coffee from the sun. ‘The alleys be- 
tween the trees are carpeted by rich green turf, 
forming pleasant glades. The plantations are gene- 
rally neatly fenced, and are often extensive, as much 
as twenty or thirty acres in one plot. Every now 
and then we passed by the road side a noble tree 
with wide-spread drooping branches, a species of 
Banian-tree, under which was often a bullock-waggon 
with its team, and a group of people resting in the 
shade. ‘he waggons were laden generally with paddy, 


| 
f 
,, 
: 


ROAD-SIDE REFRESHMENTS. 95 


while coffee seemed to be carried in large packs or 
hampers on the backs of the ponies. These ponies, 
though small, were strong and spirited little crea- 
tures. 

Coming to a small village of one kampong, we 
found under some old trees in front of it, two or 
three bamboo huts or stalls, with hot tea, coffee, 
sweet potatoes, rice-cakes, and a kind of cold rice- 
pudding, for sale. They had also fruit, such as 
mangoes and bananas. We immediately stopped 
and refreshed, rather to the amusement of our escort, 
and, at first I thought, to the slight alarm of the 
people, who hardly seemed used to European cus- 
tomers, However we found their viands very good, 
and soon put the people at their ease. ‘The women 
here (who, as elsewhere, were the principal shop- 
keepers and transactors of business) had their ears 
bored by large holes, the flap hanging down very 
much, a custom I did not observe elsewhere. They 
all spoke Javanese, which was quite unintelligible 
to us, although we were gradually picking up alittle 
Malay. 

About one o’clock we turned off from the road to 
the left, by a little track across the fields, and then got 
into a narrow winding lane, with deep banks over- 
grown with creeping plants and underwood, that led 
down to a rapid brook full of little waterfalls. The 
scenery put me in mind of spots in Devonshire, or 
south Shropshire, so green and fresh was all the 
vegetation, and so pleasant the deep narrow lanes 


26 PASSANGERANG OF KLAKKA. 


and sparkling brooks. Rising from this, we again 
came on to a broad straight road, leading up an 
ascent to the left, at the top of which was our halt- 
ing-place for the day, the “‘ passangerang”’ or guest- 
house of Klakka. This was a large and _ lofty 
bamboo house, on a raised terrace of brick, having 
a broad verandah all round, a large central saloon, 
and two or three good and well-furnished bedrooms 
on each side. ‘The verandah at the back looked 
down a steep bank on to a beautiful circular pool 
or small lake, about a quarter of a mile across, bor- 


dered by a thick belt of wood, and right over it, at 


a few miles’ distance, rose the stately cone of the 
Lamongan; upwards of 4000 feet in height, with a 
wreath of white smoke curling from its summit. 
The ground was agreeably undulating and diversified 
on every side: on our left was a narrow ravine, 
through which the brook we had crossed lower 
down escaped from the lake; and a few hundred 
yards on our right was a small kampong with a few 
cottages. In the verandah, which overlooked this 
lovely prospect, we found a table spread with a snow- 
white cloth, and all conveniences of glass, plate, and 
cutlery. There was a troop of willing servitors in 
attendance, who, as soon as we had washed and 
changed our clothes, covered the table with a smok- 
ing hot breakfast, piles of rice, curries, pilaus, and 
fruits, with tea and coffee, and stood ready to obey our 
slightest command. ‘There was no host, no master 
of the house to trouble us with ceremony: the house 


4 
‘ 


GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE. 27 


and all that belonged to it seemed to be ours as long 
as we chose to stay in it. Whose was the furniture, 
or who provided the entertainment, we did not 
know, and we found, when we went away, there was 
nothing to pay, except any little gratuity we might 
choose to give the men who attended on us so ob- 
sequiously. Hill, indeed, being more acquainted 
with the customs of the country, had taken upon 
himself the management of our money matters, so 
that I only heard this afterwards. In the mean- 
while, so delightful did we find the situation, and 
so enjoyable the whole of the arrangements, that 
we determined to stay here the next day, and try to 
get a little shooting in the neighbourhood. When 
the sun got low, I took my hammer and went down 
into the ravine, while the rest went out shooting. I 
found all the beds exposed, the total thickness of 
which was one or two hundred feet, to consist of a 
soft rock of volcanic sand and ashes pretty firmly 
compacted together. The grains, which were gene- 
rally quite globular, varied from the size of peas to 
the finest sand ; the beds were finely and regularly 
laminated and regularly stratified, generally about 
one foot thick, and seemed as if the materials had 
been deposited under water. Roundish, detached 
masses of lava or basalt appeared here and there, 
partially embedded, often one or two feet in diame- 
ter, but I could not make out how they came there. 
In the ravine the brook frets over the edges of the 
beds of volcanic sandstone, but, although so soft, it 


28 GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE. 


does not appear to be very rapidly worn away. 
Large masses of travertine hung from the rocks on 
the sides of the brook, embedding sticks and other 
things, but I never saw any organic remains in the 
fundamental rock. I believe the pool, which 1s 
called Ranoo Klakka, to be an old crater; and 
about half a mile S.E. of it is another similar cir- 
cular pool, called Ranoo Pakis. The two occupy 
the extremities of a low ridge, from which the 
ground slopes gently in every direction, and it ap- 
peared to me that the beds had a qua-quaversal 
dip from each of the pools. Certainly, on the $.W. 
side of Ranoo Klakka the beds dipped from it to 
the S.W. and seemed to curve round it ; and at 
one or two detached points on other sides, | observed 
a slight dip from the pool. I made the height of 
the passangerang of Klakka, by the mean of four 
observations, to be 811 feet above the sea. Ranoo 
Klakka was said to be 65 fathoms or 390 feet deep. 
The temperature of its water, at a depth of three 
feet, was 88°, although the air in the shade never 
rose above 87° in the hottest part of the day, and at 
nine o’clock at night was at 79°. 

On a little eminence, overlooking Ranoo Pakis, 
about half a mile from the guest-house, was a small 
wooden pandopo, that seemed to have been erected 
solely for the purpose of enjoying the view, which was 
certainly a most lovely one. About sixty feet below 
was the still water of the lake, environed by a steep 
bank covered with dense bush and jungle. From the 


a 
‘se 
% 
‘i 


BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT. 29 


upper margin of the bank, the ground sloped gently 
in every direction, and was covered with a long green 
grass with a very broad leaf called alang alang. To- 
wards thesouth, wasa green and fertile-looking plain, 
beautifully patched with dark woods. This sloped 
gently towards the southern sea, which could be 
seen gleaming in the horizon at a distance of fifteen 
or twenty miles, with a large shadowy-looking island 
on the left, called Nusa Baron. Almost behind the 
spectator, rose the Lamongan, from which a long 
green slope stretched off into the distance on his 
left, while some twenty miles on his right front, 
abruptly rising from a crested ridge near the sea, 
shot up the noble pile of the Semiru, the loftiest, 
most perfect, and majestic-looking cone we had yet 
seen, or indeed ever saw in Java. Its height, ac- 
cording to the Dutch almanack, is 12,292 feet, or 
rather more than that of the peak of Teneriffe. 
From the base of this mass, a long irregular 
ridge of mountains stretched to the north, called 
the Teng’ger, in which is the volcano of the 
Bromo. In this direction, the foreground was also 
broken into abrupt hills of no great elevation, but 
with lovely green slopes and woody crests; and 
over all the country near at hand was a beautiful 
variety of cultivated fields and patches of wood, and 
untouched slopes of alang alang, with here and there 
a native kampong, half concealed by its groves of 
fruit-trees. Everything was lovely in form and 
colour and glittered in the hot sunshine; while a 


30 FEATURES OF THE VIEW. 


fine fresh breeze from the south tempered the heat, 
and gave it the feeling of asummer day at home. 

The mountains about, although so lofty, and in 
many places so broken and rugged-looking, had not 


the grand and stern appearance which the much > 


smaller hills even of Wales or Scotland often 
assume. Beauty, not grandeur, was their chief 
characteristic. Volcanic cones are so regular in 
their shapes, and stand out so much alone as indi- 
vidual objects of perfect form and symmetrical 
outline, that they give an almost architectural 
tone to the scenery. They are like noble columns 
or pyramids, perfectly beautiful indeed, but not 
possessing the mysterious and awe-inspiring cha- 
racter of a great chain of ‘‘ many-folded mountains,” 
in the recesses of which the imagination delights to 
wander, and at times to lose itself. ‘These moun- 
tains, too, had all their slopes and even their top- 
most ridges clothed with wood and green waving 
grass, except one or two summit cones of cinders and 
ashes fresh from the craters; and even these, from 
the effect of distance, looked smooth as if made of 
sand. Still, if devoid of grandeur and sublimity, 
the beauty of the scene was perfect, and for the first 
time realized my pre-conceived ideas of the finest 
tropical scenery. 

We returned to the passangerang at dusk; and 
after dinner, as I was strolling round the house 
outside smoking a cigar, a man with a long spear 
came up to me and began to turn me back with a 


' 
3 
; 
B: 


DREAD OF TIGERS. 31 


long and earnest oration, of which the only word I 
understood was ‘‘machan,” the Javanese for “ tiger.” 
Having recourse to Hill’s interpretation, I found he 
was begging me not to walk in the dark, as tigers 
were very abundant all round, which he forcibly 
assured us ‘‘eat men;” and that they had been 
known to come even into the house. We found in 
the front verandah a guard of four spearmen, keep- 
ing watch against such an occurrence. We thought 
they were joking, till we found that none of them- 
selves went a few yards beyond the house without a 
torch. One man going down to bathe in the pool just 
below, another accompanied him with a torch; and 
we observed four men coming up the road with two 
large torches, who, they said, were coming home 
from their work to the kampong hard by. We still 
thought these fears a little exaggerated; but that 
very night a man was killed by a tiger at a village 
about two nailes from us, as he was going out to his 
work before daylight with two others. His body was 
recovered the next day. 

Nov. 13.—We were out with our guns at the 
earliest dawn—Captain Blackwood and I in one di- 
rection, Evans and Hill in another. Immediately 


_ beyond the fences of the kampong we saw both wild 


pigs and jungle-fowl, and in half a mile had killed 
one of the former and a brace of the latter. Had 


-we known the country and the ‘lie”’ of the covers, 


and had a dog or two, we might have had splendid 
sport; but our attendants did not understand the 


82 MORNING WALK. 


affair, and were only useful in carrying the shot- 
belts and game-bags. We pressed into our service 
the first two men we saw in the next village we came 
to, after shooting the pig, and sent them to carry it 
up to the house, a command they obeyed without 
the slightest hesitation. ‘The country we walked 
across was slightly undulating, only half cultivated, 
and that in rather a slovenly fashion, but remarkably 
pleasant, with just enough difficulty to render the 
walk interesting. Here and there were untouched 
thickets of wood, or old coffee plantations, imper- 
fectly fenced, looking just like an English cover, and 
now and then we came on a belt of alang alang, a 
long, coarse, broad-leaved grass, rising above our 
heads, very close and difficult to penetrate, and 
cutting the hand if drawn through it rapidly. 
Small brooks and water-courses, with beautiful 
clear running streams, were numerous; and we 
passed one or two small kampongs, or hamlets, in 
our morning walk, near which were fields, or gar- 
dens, more carefully cultivated than elsewhere. ‘The 
weather was cool, fresh, and delightful. On our 
return, we found Evans and Hill had fallen in with 
the fresh tracks of one or two tigers in a coffee plan- 
tation they had visited in search of pigs. ‘There is, 
however, no danger from these animals in the day- 
time, when they rarely, if ever, shew themselves, 
unless hunted up. In the afternoon I accompanied 
Evans and Hill to their ground, and saw some pigs. 
We passed through a secluded and picturesque vil- 


a a = 


t tile 


TRAVERSE A TIGER HAUNT. 83 


lage, surrounded by very extensive coffee planta- 
tions, with broad green lanes overshadowed by 
trees and the most lovely rural scenery. Evans and 
I, having missed Hill about sunset, made homewards 
by a straight course across the country, and just 
before it got dark found ourselves on a broad rise of 
gentle elevation, covered with alang alang, and 
crowned by a few trees, which I recognised as the 
borders of Ranoo Pakis, the most noted haunt of 
tigers in the whole country. Cocking our guns, 
however, we pushed through the grass, that was often 
three feet above our heads, for about half a mile— 
not without a feeling of half hope, half fear, of at 
least hearing the roar of a tiger or his rush through 
the jungle. Nothing of the kind occurred, however, 
but I have no doubt that a party well provided with 
a few good horses and dogs, and a spearman or two, 
- might have most excellent sport in this neighbour- 
hood, whether at jungle fowl and deer, or wild pigs. 
and tigers. The jungle fowl we killed to-day, 
although having a great resemblance to our barn- 
door poultry, were most beautiful birds, the cock 
especially, whose plumage is almost entirely a dark 
glossy green, streaked here and there with yellow. 
The cock, too, is excellent eating, and far superior 
to the hen. They are to be met with in the morn- 
ing and evening at the edges of the coffee planta- 
tions ; they run very rapidly, but if suddenly sprung 
out of a tussock of grass, they rise splendidly with 
a flight intermediate between that of a pheasant 
VOL. II. D 


34 FINE SPORTING COUNTRY. 


and a grouse. Pig shooting is tame work, but 
spearing them on horseback, as they do in India, as 
Captain Blackwood described to me, would, I have 
no doubt, be admirable sport, and the country is 
well adapted for it—a succession of covers and open 
undulating plains. It would, however, require a 
larger breed of horses than they now have in Java, or 
the rider would be buried in the grass if he came to 
a patch of alang alang, and would not be able to see 
the chase. We did not hear of any Dutch gentle- 
men who were sportsmen; but had Java continued 
in the English possession, I have no doubt it would 
ere this have been celebrated for its field sports. 
Pigs, especially, are so numerous as to be a perfect 
nuisance to the inhabitants, who, as Mahomedans, 
do not eat pork, but are delighted to see them killed ; 
while of tigers there is no lack, from all we heard, 
even in our short excursion in the country. Bears 
are to be found, and wild buffalo, the most danger- 
ous of all animals to meet with, and far more 
dreaded by the natives than the tiger himself. ‘The 
rhinoceros is confined, I believe, to the most wild 
and uninhabited parts of the southern coast in the 
native dominions, but, as I was afterwards informed, 
was sometimes to be found in the highest part of the 
volcanic mountains of the interior. 


CHAPTER II. 


RIDE FROM KLAKKA TO LAMAJANG—BEAUTIFUL SITUATION 
OF THE PASSANGERANG—SUMOWIJOYOH RONGO DI LAMA- 
JANG—DISTURB A TIGER—RIDE TO TAMPA—LAUT KEDUL, 
OR THE SOUTHERN SEA—“ GAMELANG,” OR NATIVE BANDS 
— DANCING GIRLS—ASPECT OF THE MOUNTAINS — DAILY 
THUNDER STORM IN THE AFTERNOON—COMMENCEMENT OF 
THE N.W. MONSOON— RIDE TO KEDIMANGAN— LUXURIOUS 
LIVING — MAGNIFICENT FORESTS ON THE MOUNTAINS —- 
ARRIVE AT LODO OMBO—ASPECT OF A MOUNTAIN VILLAGE— 
MANNERS OF THE PEOPLE MORE INDEPENDENT THAN IN 
THE PLAINS. 


November 14.—Havine sent off the coolies with 
the baggage before daylight, we started ourselves 
at six o’clock on horseback, with a similar train of 
attendants to what we had before. We travelled 
towards the south, and in about a mile passed the 
large village or town of Klakka. This consisted 
entirely of native houses, in two or three kampongs, 
surrounded by bamboo fences eight or ten feet high. 
Soon after, we crossed one or two fine brooks run- 
ning towards the south, in which direction the 
country gradually declined. It was still, however, 
agreeably undulated, and broken occasionally into 
small hills, crowned with woods and surrounded by 
sloping grassy plains. At one spot we saw, at the 
edge of a wood, jungle-fowl, peacocks, pigs, and 

D2 


36 NATIVE ROBBERS. 


deer altogether, but they took alarm at our caval- 
cade before we could reach them. We had observed, 
at about every two miles, strings suspended across 
the road from one tree to another, with a bunch 
of grass in the middle, and on inquiring the mean- 
ing of it, found it was to notify that European or 
other important personages were travelling, and 
the roads were to be kept clear in consequence. One 
of our attendants told us that one effect of this 
was to clear the road of robbers, who are by no 
means unfrequent in these parts, but confine their 
attentions to Javanese or Chinese, whom they some- 
times murder as well as plunder, but never venture 
to attack Europeans. As the Dutch Government 
entrusts almost all the native police and internal 
regulations to the native authorities, they do not 
interfere in these matters, except in the case of a 
European suffering injury. The consequence seems 
to be a good deal of insecurity, both of person and 
property, among the native population. We passed 
to-day a considerable number of bullock-waggons, 
laden with paddy and other things, travelling to- 
wards the north, probably to Probolingo. We also 
met a considerable number of travellers of both 
sexes, generally on horseback. We observed that 
as soon as we came in sight the men would dis- 
_ mount, pull off their hats, and stand uncovered, or 
squat down as we passed; while the women drew 
off the road, behind a bush, where they were sup- 
posed to be out of sight. This extreme respect to 


ENTER LAMAJANG. 37 


superiors is universal in Java, and is paid to their own 
chiefs as well as to all Europeans.* Sitting down 
on the ground is the proper posture of respect, and 
an inferior, in moving in the presence of a superior, 
bends his body, and crouches Beat till he can find 
a place for squatting down. 

We changed horses after rather a long post, and 
in four pauls more arrived at Lamajang, a little 
before ten o'clock. ‘This is a moderately sized 
native town, standing on a plain, which, from the 
rapidity of the brooks, is evidently still some height 
above the sea. ‘The town, indeed, is intersected by 
a precipitous little ravine, about thirty feet deep, in 
which was a rapid brook, and over which there were 
several bridges of wood. 

We traversed one or two streets, or rather roads, 
bounded by the fences of kampongs, and over- 
shadowed by groves of cocoa-nuts and areca-palms, 
and then came on to the central square. This seems 
an universal feature of all the Javanese towns; it 


' generally contains three or four acres of beautiful 


turf, shaded by noble banian trees, of a species 
called “ warringen,” which are almost held sacred 
by the inhabitants. This square is bordered by the 


* Asin Java, so in the Friendly and Society Islands, uncovering 
the shoulders and squatting down is the highest mark of respect 
that canbe shewn. See Sir S. Raffles’s History of Java, Mari- 
ner’s Tonga Islands, Ellis’s Polynesian Researches, &c. &c. 
In Tonga, if an inferior meets a chief upon the road, he lowers 
his burden and sits down till he has passed. 


38 THE PASSANGERANG. 


residences of the principal people, and the roads 
diverge from it in every direction. 

As soon as we came on the square or “ alang” of 
Lamajang, we turned short to the right, and galloped 
by a broad road of beautiful green turf, to the pas- 
sangerang or guest-house, about a quarter of a mile 
distant. Here we found the native chief, whose 
title was Rongo, waiting to receive us with a troop 
of attendants, and as soon as we had dismounted, he 
led us to a table covered with fruits and cakes, 
while tea and glasses of cocoa-nut water were 
handed tous. This, however, was merely a whet, 
for as soon as we had bathed and changed our 
dresses, we found a smoking hot breakfast awaiting 
us, of curries, pilaus, beefsteaks, spatch cocks, and 
a superabundance of other dainties, served up in 
excellent style with glass, plate, blue finger-glasses, 
and snow-white napkins; in short, all the luxuries 
of the East mingled with the elegancies of the West. 
The Rongo, after asking permission to be seated at 
table in our presence, and partake of his own enter- — 
tainment, did the honours in excellent style. 

This place was, if possible, still more pleasant 
and delightful than that of Klakka. The house, 
however, was smaller, and had only three bedrooms, 
with two others in a detached building, a little 
removed from it. It stood a little outside of the 
town, on the edge of a grassy bank that sloped 
down into a small valley, through which the brook 
ran before it entered the narrow ravine below. This 


%j 


STRUCTURE OF THE HOUSE. 39 


| valley was about a quarter of a mile wide, one entire 


meadow of the most beautiful green grass.* The 
banks of this valley were steep green slopes, about 
thirty or forty feet in height, with broken skirts of 
wood. Over this beautiful foreground rose the 
noble and symmetrical cone of the Semiru, smoking 
away occasionally in grand style, with a lower but 
still lofty and rugged range of mountains stretching 
away to the north-west, and another broken ridge 
sloping to the sea on the south. The house was 


raised on a wooden platform, and built entirely of 


bamboo, except the beams, floors, and corner posts, 
the workmanship being remarkably neat and strong. 
The central room was open at both ends, from the 
front verandah to the back, but could be closed at 
pleasure by cane mats or blinds, that were kept 
rolled up under the eaves of the roof.t Over the 
brook, in front of the house, was a small bamboo 
shed for a bathing house. The water was shallow, 
very rapid, running over a bed of lava pebbles, and 
its temperature was only 72°, which appeared in- 
tensely cold to our feelings, the air now being 85°. 
It must come very rapidly from the mountains be- 


* The rich greenness of the grass in the interior of Java quite 
equalling that of England, is a rarity in a tropical country, and 
it was peculiarly grateful to our eyes after being accustomed for 
two years to the living hay of Australia. 

+ There is a great analogy between this kind of house, or the 
open pandopo of the Javanese, and the houses of the Tonga 
Islanders, as described by Mariner. (See Vol. ii. p. 250.) 


4.0 DISTURB A TIGER. 


yond, as the height of this spot is. only about 160 
feet above the sea. 

About two o’clock in the afternoon the mountains 
became suddenly covered with clouds, that soon 
spread down over the plains, and we had some 
sharp thunder and lightning, with very heavy rain, 
till 4 p.m., when it cleared off. The thermome- 
ter sank to 75° after this shower. Captain Black- 
wood and I then took our guns, and walked out 
shooting, taking three men with us, one of whom 
spoke Malay. We crossed the brook, which was 
not much more than knee-deep, and ascending the 
opposite bank, came on some large paddy-fields, 
which were now all dry and in stubble. Beyond 
these were some old coffee plantations, and a broken 
country full of little valleys with rattling brooks, 
small coverts and brakes, with grassy spaces inter- 
vening, and here and there delicious green lanes, 
with lofty trees arching overhead. There were 
some tobacco-fields also, to which the jungle-fowl 
seemed partial, and in which we shot two or three. 
After a delightful walk of two or three miles we 
returned. In coming back we agreed to take oppo- 
site sides of a coffee plantation, just before dusk, 
and on rejoining my worthy chief, I found he had 
been very near having an adventure. In beating a 
small hollow full of jungle and dense foliage, he 
heard a great growling and grumbling close to him, 
and. a rustle among the tall grass. His attendant 
immediately called out, ‘“‘machan” (a tiger), and 


ee —— 


. 
— Oe ee ee 


PLEASANTNESS OF COUNTRY. 41 


looked very serious, and when we met he commenced 
a long and earnest story to the other two men who 
had accompanied me. But for a little incident like 
this, and for the tropical appearance of the palm- 
trees, bananas, and other vegetation, | could hardly 
realize to myself that I was in Java, —Java the.hot, 
the deadly, the terrible. The cool freshness of the 
air, the short, springy, fresh green turf, the green 
lanes with footpaths and cart tracks, the ditches and 
fences, with here and there a gap, as if broken 
down by a sportsman, the old coffee plantations with 
their lofty trees and grassy alleys among the under- 
wood, reminded me rather of shooting in a mild 
evening in September in some of the remote dis- 
tricts of England, among half-neglected covers and 
preserves and imperfectly cultivated fields. This 
part of Java, indeed, is remarkably healthy, and 
is visited on that account by invalids from Sourabaya 
and the hot towns of the muddy and swampy north 
coast. 

On returning to the passangerang a little after 
dark, we found the Rongo waiting to welcome us to 
a dinner as luxurious and well cooked as the break- 

‘fast he had given us in the morning. On relating 
our tiger story to him, he regretted that it had not 
happened in the morning, as the tiger would not 
have moved far from the spot during the day, and 
we might have assembled some forces for a hunt. 
He assured us he had but to beat a particular mea- 
sure on his gong, and two or three hundred spear- 


4,2 CURIOSITY OF THE RONGO. 


men would turn out ready and eager for the fray. 
The animal, however, was sure to shift his quarters 
during the night, so that the next morning would 
be too late to look for him. 

The Rongo was a middle-aged man of a portly 
appearance, with an intelligent, good-humoured 
countenance, and very amiable manners. He ap- 
peared fond of a joke, and could we have conversed 
freely with him, would, I think, have been an ex- 
cellent companion ; but as all the conversation had 
to be interpreted by Hill, it could not be very brisk. 
He seemed much interested with respect to England, 
and was never tired of asking questions about it. 
He wanted to know the amount of the army, the 
number of the fleet, how many colonels there were, 
under which title he included post-captains, the 
amount of their pay, and similar matters. He 
seemed amused with the idea of a “ Rajah param- 
pouan,” or woman Rajah, although acquainted with 
the fact of our having a Queen and her name, and 
asked how many children she had. He evidently 
could not understand why Prince Albert was not 
King. He asked about the probability of war, and I 
think was desirous of ascertaining whether there was ~ 
any chance in the future of the English recovering 
possession of Java. We assured him that there was 
none, as we had more territory than we knew what 
to do with. 

There still seems to linger a hope and expecta- 
tion on the part of the native inhabitants, and a 


SERI CHEWING. 43 


kind of fear on the part of the Dutch, that England 
has her eye on Java, and will take the first opportu- 
nity of getting possession of it. 

While we smoked our cigars after dinner the 
Rongo was chewing seri, or beetel as it is commonly 
called, an attendant always crouching behind his 
chair with his seri box ready to hand to him. This 
was of silver, about eight inches by five, divided 
into compartments for the various ingredients. In 
using it, a leaf of the beetel pepper, quite green and 
fresh, is taken, and a little lime mixed with water 
smeared over it, a slice or two of areca-nut is then 
sheered off with a peculiar instrument for the pur- 
pose, and the whole is wrapped in some finely shred 
tobacco, and popped into the mouth. It is by no 
means an elegant practice, as the lips are continu- 
ally smeared with a red-coloured saliva, looking 
almost like blood, and the quid of tobacco is often 
kept half protruding from the lips, and before it is 
thrown away the teeth and gums are generally well 
rubbed with it up and down and far back. It is 
universally used by both sexes, and looks especially 
disgusting in a woman till the eye gets accustomed 
to it. The Rongo also allowed us to examine his 
kriss, which, although not so handsome as some we 
saw, was as usual much valued as an heir-loom, hav- 
ing been in his family for several generations. The 
sheath was of wood, with a thin case of embossed 
gold, and a large curiously-shaped mass of a black 
and white wood for the head, which he ‘told us was 


44: SHAPE OF A KRISS. 


very expensive. The blade was rough and rusty- 
looking, the fibre of the iron plainly appearing, as 
it is never allowed to be polished, the handle small, 
ornamented with gold and a few small diamonds. 
There is no guard, the expansion of the base of the 
blade serving that purpose. Different krisses are 
figured in Sir Stamford Raffles’s work, and in Craw- 
furd’s Indian Archipelago. They are poor affairs 
considered as weapons, and could only be of use 
against a man off his guard. 

About nine o’clock, after seeing if we were satis- 
fied with our apartments, and inquiring if he could 
do anything more for us, and after having arranged 
our plans for the morrow, the Rongo took his de- 
parture, with an escort of five or six men, to his 
own house, by the side of the great square. We 
found a guard posted in our verandah, of three or 
four men, with tall spears, and on retiring to my 
bedroom, which was one of the detached ones, I 
found two spearmen there, preparing to take up 
their quarters in the small verandah before the 
door. I believe, however, all this was a mere guard 
of honour, and not at all necessary as a measure of 
precaution.” 


* Many of the details in the foregoing pages, as in those that 
follow, are no doubt trivial enough, and to any one familiar with 
the country, would seem not worth recording. To me, however, 
the whole country, and the manners and customs of the people 
were so new and interesting, that I hardly knew how to select 
from the mass of daily incidents those which were most descrip- 


“a 


UNTOUCHED FOREST. 4S 


Nov. 15.—We set off this morning with a single 
attendant each, and one to carry my barometer, in 
order to visit the shore of the southern sea, which 
was not more than about ten miles distant. We 
passed through partially cultivated ground for three 
or four miles, and then got out on a small open plain 
of a barren appearance, on which were large spaces 
of bare lava pebbles and volcanic sand, brought down 
apparently by the floods of a considerable brook, 
which came from the direction of Semiru. ‘This 
brook wandered over the plain towards the east, 
without any regular bed. Beyond this plain, the 
road passed for nearly a mile through a portion of 
forest, apparently untouched, the primitive forest 
and jungle of the country. ‘This was very mag- 
nificent. ‘The road leading through it looked like 
an avenue, and although of a good width, probably 
twenty yards, was completely over-arched by the 
lofty boughs. Stately forest trees, of great height 
and size, and of many varieties, with straight un- 
broken stems and broadly-spreading branches at 
top, were matted below into an almost impenetrable 
thicket of underwood, one mass of varied foliage, 
while great creepers wreathed their festoons from 
tree to tree, hanging here and there like ropes 
twined round with leaves. Graceful palms, of 
several species, rose among the woods, and drooping 
tufts of parasitic ferns clung to the branches of the 
tive, and trust the reader, to whom they may be familiar, will 


excuse my prolixity, for the sake of those to whom the country 
and the people may be as novel as they were to myself. 


46 THE SOUTHERN SEA. 


trees, producing an effect of richness and profusion 
in the vegetation that nothing could exceed. Every- 
thing, too, was bright, fresh, and glittering with 
the morning dew. Leaving this magnificent forest, 
we again got upon some cultivated land, and shortly 
reached a small village called Tampa, where, at a 
pandopo by the road side we found tea, fruit, and 
cakes awaiting us, as usual, the moment we took 
our feet out of the stirrups. After a slight halt, 
we rode on to the sea. The country was flat, and 
very fertile looking, but for the last two miles 
totally uncultivated and in a state of nature. Here 
broad spaces of alang alang waved in the wind, or 
stretched with green alleys and open glades into 
the recesses of the forest, producing the most lovely 
sylvan scenery. Numbers of peacocks screamed 
from the summits of the loftiest trees; and deer 
must, I should think, abound in a country so well 
adapted for them. ‘The long grass, or alang alang, 
was not too high to ride through, even on our ponies, 
though we often could not see well around us when 
among it. This tract of country looked like a noble 
park adapted to a tropical latitude. 

At length we reached a small pandopo perched 
on the summit of a cliff overlooking the sea. This 
cliff was about sixty feet in height, and below, 
between it and the sea, was a small flat of sand 
and pebbles scantily covered with grass, and about 
three hundred yards in width. Through this 
flat wound a small brook which oozed into the sea, 


FEAR OF THE BAROMETER. 47 


through a bank of pebbles thrown up by the surf. 
The cliff, from top to bottom, consisted of regularly 
stratified lines of pebbles of lava and black volcanic 
sand; it had evidently once been beaten on by the 
sea, and the plain below consisted of its detritus, 
but this plain was so little above the sea level, that 
I could not say whether an actual elevation of the 
land had taken place; or whether the sea had 
merely become shallower, and at length banked 
itself out by the action of its own waves. A cart track 
wound down the cliff, and a bullock waggon and 
some horses were on the plain below, belonging to a 
party of natives, who had come for sea bathing.* 
I set up my barometer in the shade of an old tree, 
but several of the natives who stood by seemed 
rather suspicious of my intentions with such an 
extraordinary looking instrument ; and two women 
crept under the bullock waggon, apparently in 
order to be out of the way of any explosion that 
might take plaee. 

The southern coast stretched away on either 
hand in cliffs and headlands of a greater height 
than those near us, and it seemed to be perpetually 
beaten by a heavy surf, of which the spray caused 
quite a haze in the atmosphere. A few miles to the 
S.E. of us was the island called Nusa Baron, sur- 


* Sea bathing is used by the Javanese as a remedy for sick 
people in general ; but I believe the south sea “ laut kedul” 
is especially looked upon as a restorative with somewhat of a 
superstitious feeling. 


~ 48 ' BREAKFAST AT TAMPA. 


~ rounded by steep, whitish-looking cliffs, and covered 
with dense wood. It is, I believe, uninhabited, and 
said to abound with snakes and tigers. 

As it was now getting hot, we soon cantered back 
to Tampa, where we found an excellent cold break- 
fast laid out, that had been sent down by the worthy 
Rongo of Lamajang. After this the attendants 
brought us mats and pillows, and advised us to take 
a siesta during the heat of the day; but as they all 
sat round us, and continued chattering in a low 
tone of voice, we found this impracticable, and about 
two o'clock determined to go out peacock shooting. 
They took us to a neighbouring wood, and through 
some old coffee plantations, where there were plenty 
of peacocks, but they kept on the tops of trees so 
lofty as generally to be out of shot; Evans, however, 
brought down one. We soon got knocked up with 
scrambling through thick jungle in the heat of the 
day, and returned to the pandopo, all except Hill, 
who had gone in chase of a deer, and succeeded in 
shooting one of the kind called “ kedang.”’ This was 
a beautiful little animal of extreme delicacy and 
elegance of form. We returned to Lamajang by the 
same road we had come, and on our arrival at the 
passangerang were saluted by a native band of 
music, which the Rongo had brought up from his 
house for our gratification. This band consisted of 
a kind of fiddle with two strings, with a cocoa-nut 
covered with parchment for the sounding-board, 
and several instruments of percussion, both of wood 


MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. —» 49 


and_ brass. ‘The one was made of small Sack of é 
wood suspended on strings over a box, and struck — 
with a hammer, so as to give a sonorous tone. 
The brass instruments were more various: one or 
two were made of bars, suspended like those of 
wood; others of sets of hollow brass basins, as it 
were, one upright and the other inverted over it ;~— 
each set was in a box, in two rows, and tuned so as 
to harmonize with each other when different bars or 
basins were struck simultaneously. There were 
also one or two similar brass hollow instruments of 
a larger size, and a gong or two.* The effect of 
the whole, when at a little distance, was really 
pretty, and the different tunes played, of a lively, 
irregular measure, occasionally reminded us of 
Scotch airs. The Rongo took one of the instru- 
ments, made of the suspended brass bars, and played 
asolo. The tone of the instrument was very pleasing 
and delicate, and the Rongo seemed much gratified 
with our applauses of his performance. 

Just at dark, in walking across the grass from 
my bed-room to the dinner-room, I saw a small 
snake gliding before me, and called one of the at- 
tendants to come and kill it. This he did with much 
caution, cutting it in two with a large padang, or 
knife, for cutting sugar-cane; and on shewing it to 
the Rongo, he said it was “ sakali jahat,” or ‘‘ very 


* Figures of all these instruments may be seen in Sir S. 
Raffles’s History of Java, and Crawfurd’s History of the Indian 
Archipelago. 


VOL. II. E 


50 DANCING GIRLS. 


wicked,” and its bite almost certain death. It was 
a pale brown above, and greyish white beneath. 

We had yesterday expressed a wish to see some 
dancing girls perform, and the Rongo had to-day 
provided a set to entertain us after dinner. Ac- 
cordingly, about eight o’clock, the front of the 
verandah being spread with mats and dimly lighted 
up with lamps, we seated ourselves for the spectacle, 
a large ring of people being squatted on the grass 
outside. Four girls then made their appearance, 
their hair ornamented with chaplets of white flowers, 
their dresses rather gay, with long scarfs round the 
neck and shoulders, and thin bands of silver round 
the waist and wrists. They had no pretension to 
beauty, and only one had any elegance of figure, the 
rest being plain, dumpy little bodies enough. The 
dancing consisted of slow gesticulations, bending of 
the body, and waving and curving of the arms and 
wrists ; in short, mere attitudinizing, in which the 
only thing exhibited was flexibility of the joints, 
with an occasional graceful posture or motion. ‘The 
tallest and best figure was the principal performer, 
the others merely grouping themselves around her, 
or occasionally taking a part. It was always accom- 
panied by the band, and sometimes by the voice, 
one of the performers taking up the end of her scarf, 
drawing it over her mouth, and screeching forth the 
harshest and shrillest tones I ever heard from a 
woman’s mouth. We had four scenes, with a pause 
between each: each apparently represented some 


CHINESE REPORTS. 6) | 


story, but what was intended we could not make 
out. No doubt the story or legend was traditional 
and well known to the people, as the ring outside, 
and the four spearmen, with their tall glittering 
_ weapons, gazed in silent delight, while to us it soon 
became excessively dull and tiresome. There was 
nothing whatever indecorous in any part of the 
representation, although the girls themselves are, 
by their profession, considered as courtezans. 

The Rongo was again very particular to-day in 
his inquiries regarding England, and particularly 
as to the Chinese war. He told us that there were 
Chinese advertisements, or gazettes, circulated 
among the Chinese residing in Java, setting forth 
the injustice of the war on the part of the English, 
and also that they had been signally defeated on all 
occasions. Seeing me this evening busy writing in 
a note-book, he immediately guessed that I was 
writing a book which I intended to publish in 
England, and begged that I would take down his 
name and title in full, that it might be known to 
the English people. I here beg to fulfil my pro- 
mise, as far as in me lies, and introduce to the 
reader Sumowijoyoh, Rongo de Lamajang. 

The people in this part of the country did not 
sensibly differ from those of Sourabaya and the neigh- 
bourhood, either in appearance or dress. They are 
of the middle height, or rather under than above it, 
of a broad and stout make, with large limbs, broad, 
good-tempered countenances, frequently intelligent, 

BE: 2 


52 APPEARANCE OF THE PEOPLE. 


but of a grave and sombre rather than cheerful ex- 
pression. The children are much handsomer than 
the adults, and the men more frequently good-look- 
ing than the women. ‘The habit of filing down the 
front enamel of the teeth and blackening them, and 
that of chewing seri, disfigures the adult population 
in a great degree, as does also the serious coun- 
tenance they commonly preserve, their faces being 
greatly improved by a smile. 

It appeared to me that their Dutch masters are 
in the habit of treating the natives of all ranks with 
considerable haughtiness and reserve, and it was 
always some time before we could induce them to 
relax their gravity in our presence. This we ge- 
nerally endeavoured to do by all the jokes and 
familiarity our ignorance of the language enabled 
us to perpetrate, and it was often surprising how 
they improved on a little acquaintance. In fact, 
their sole study seemed how to please us by any 
means in their power. 

November 16.—We remained quietly at Lama- 
jang to-day. The morning was most lovely, all the 
mountains being clear and sharply-defined, without 
a cloud in the sky. Semiru was particularly fine as 
he puffed forth from his summit huge volumes of 
white smoke, looking like steam. This formed 
occasionally a great canopy over the cone, and then 
portions of it successively curled off till all dis- 
appeared. Between two and three o’clock in the 
afternoon, however, the mountains had gradually 


THE RONGO’S HOUSE. 53 


accumulated dark masses of clouds that then sud- 
denly spread over the plains and gave us a heavy 
thunder-shower for an hour and a half. It was 
now just about the change of the monsoon, which 
was beginning to blow from the westward along the 
southern coast, and almost every afternoon from 
this time we had very heavy rains between two and 
six o'clock, with thunder and lightning, all the 
rest of the twenty-four hours being most lovely 
weather. At five in the afternoon the rain having 
ceased, we walked down, according to promise, to 
call upon the Rongo at his own house. He lived 
on the north side of the square, having a small 
pandopo on the green before his gate, beneath a 
row of noble “waringen” trees. As soon as we 
shewed ourselves on the green, his native band, 
who were seated in the pandopo, struck up a tune 
of welcome called ‘‘ Rajah datang,” or ‘“‘ The Rajah 
is coming,” which seems always to be used on 
occasions of ceremony. Entering the gate we found 
a large court-yard, not very well kept, in which was 
a good sized pandopo, and behind it the house, 
which was small, and constructed entirely of bamboo. 
He received us in the pandopo, and offered us tea, 
fruit, and cakes. On one side of the pandopo were 
eleven large spears standing in a rack, being the 
number of his guard as he informed us. Near 
them were two great chests, which he told us 
contained 5,000 rupees in copper, being the amount 
of land-tax which he has to collect and transmit 


54 DAILY WAGES. 


monthly to Probolingo. This would make 3,444. 
sterling per annum. The population of his district 
he stated at 25,000 souls, including, I suppose, not 
only the town of Lamajang, but the adjacent 
villages. The daily wages of a man here were 5 
duits, or not quite of a penny English, and for this 
he could live very well. Rice is from 3 to 5 duits 
the catty, which is about 11lb. English, and plan- 
tains and other fruits cost little or nothing. These 
are the chief food of the natives, the rice being 
flavoured occasionally with a little salt fish or 
stewed vegetables. Of clothing, the labourer re- 
quires little for ordinary wear, beyond a wrapper, 
and in a day or two he can cut bamboo enough to 
make a very sufficient house. 

A Dutch Assistant-resident resides at Lamajang. 
He had hitherto been absent, inspecting some roads 
or bridges at a distance. Hearing he was now 
returned, we sent in, as he lived next door to the 
Rongo, to inquire if he was at leisure to receive us; 
but as he was taking his afternoon siesta, we merely 
left our compliments, and having finished our chat 
with the Rongo, returned to our quarters. 

November 17.— As we had rather a long and up- 
hill stage before us this morning, we directed the 
coolies to start with our baggage at three o’clock, 
but whether from fear of tigers, or other causes, we 
did not get them fairly under weigh till daylight, 
when, after a slight refection, we set off ourselves 
at half-past six. Our route was about N.W. towards 


HALT AT KEDIMANGAN. 55 


the mountains. The road led first of all through a 
flat country, but twisted about a good deal, appa- 
rently to avoid the brooks and water-courses, which 
were numerous and rapid. We shortly began to 
rise onto some low undulations, from the tops of 
which we got gradually more and more extensive 
views over the plain. The road was almost always 
a broad expanse of beautiful green turf, with just a 
cart-track in the middle, and noble trees growing 
on each side, bordered sometimes by fences and 


cultivated ground, sometimes by patches of un- 


touched forest. After riding about a couple of hours 
we came on a troop of horses and men, standing 
and lying under the shade of a spreading tree that 
stood out in the centre of the road. This was the 
Dumang, or head man of the village of Kandangan, 
come to meet us with fresh horses and attendants. 

About three miles beyond this we came to his 
house, ata place called Kedimangan, where, leading 
us into the court-yard, we found the usual table 
spread in the pandopo, with fruit and cakes, and 
servitors walking about with basins and water 
to dip our hands and face, and then immediately 
handing us tea; and, as if all this were not enough, 
as soon as we seemed to have had sufficient fruit, 
they cleared the table and covered it again with 
twelve or fifteen different dishes of poultry and 
meats and rice, in curries, pilaus, and soups, ex- 
quisitely cooked, and smoking hot. We found, 
indeed, the good Rongo of Lamajang had taken the 


56 LUXURIOUS TRAVELLING. 


trouble to send on over night his own cook, a Ben- 
galee, and I believe part of his plate and table 
furniture that we might be suitably entertained. 
As soon as we were seated, the Dumang squatted 
down on the floor, in the front of his dependants, 
but we begged he would join us at table, which he 
did with some hesitation. As we finished, the 
dishes were passed to the people on the floor, be- 
tween twenty and thirty in number, who broke into 
small parties around them and helped themselves 
with their fingers. It was really a most luxurious 
method of travelling ; for, before we could tire one 
horse, we found another with fresh spirit awaiting 
us; and before we had time to think of being. 
thirsty, we came upon some table spread in the 
wilderness, as if by enchantment; as to being 
hungry, we could not acquire the sensation. More- 
over, as the entertainment was always osten- 
sibly provided by the head man of the place, we 
could not affront him by offermg payment for it; 
nor was it much expense to him, as the materials 
were furnished by the contributions of the different 
villages and people under his government, whom, 
perhaps, we never saw, and certainly did not know, 
and therefore could not remunerate. All we could 
do, was to pay our coolies and attendants for them- 
selves and their horses. 

I was surprised, on opening the barometer, to 
find we had already risen so much above Lamajang, 
the two observations of this morning giving a differ- 


TIGER TRAPS. 57 


ence of level of 1247 feet, making Kedimangan 
1412 feet above the sea. When we reached Kan- 


_ dangan, indeed, which was merely a few small houses 


on arising ground about a mile farther on, we found 
the view very extensive, looking over all the undu- 
lating forest land below, and the plain of Lamajang 
with the southern sea and the island of Nusa Baron 
in the distance. A little beyond this the road 
divided into two, and became much narrower and 
steeper, among some very extensive coffee-planta- 
tions. We here saw two tiger traps, long, low, narrow 
boxes made of stout posts and young trees, with a 
falling door at one end which drops on the bait 
being touched, which is hung up inside at the other. 
It was, in fact, nothing but a large mouse-trap. A 
good sized tiger would barely have been able to 
crawl in, and I should have thought would have 
been much too cunning to enter. They are, how- 
ever, sometimes caught in them, when they are 
killed with spears thrust between the trees of which 
the trap is formed. For two or three miles, we now 
rode along a narrow lane with very high banks 
over an abruptly undulating country. The banks 
were covered with beautiful plants, among which 
we found a species of wild raspberry, some of the 
fruit of which was ripe but rather insipid. This 
deep lane reminded me of those of Devonshire, 
except that the vegetation was more exuberant. We 
passed one or two small detached cottages, but soon 
got above the coffee-grounds, and the lane began to 


58 FOREST SCENERY. 


dive into deep and precipitous ravines with brawling 
brooks, and to rise into narrow winding ridges, up 
the crests of which we climbed by narrow slippery 
foot-paths, and soon became entirely engulphed in 
the magnificent untouched forests that clothed the 
mountain’s sides. Many of the trees rose to great 
heights before they branched, when they spread 
into widely arching boughs clustered with thick 
foliage ; their stately trunks were wreathed with 
large rope-like creepersthat dropped from the boughs 
in thick festoons of leaves, tapering below into long 
trailmg pendants gently swinging in the breeze. 
These were high above our heads, while all below 
was hidden by clusters of bamboo and groves of 
mountain plantains, matted together and sometimes 
swallowed up and buried by heaps of ferns and huge 
broad-leaved succulent plants, and an infinite variety 
of climbing weeds into solid piles and mounds of the 
rankest vegetation. The elegant tree-ferns, more 
tall and slender than those of Australia and Van 
Diemen’s Land, seemed to love the seclusion of 
the deepest and most precipitous ravines. Some- 
times, when the crest of a ridge expanded a little 
and became more level, the road passed through 
large groves, consisting entirely of bamboos, with 
little or no under-growth. These, rising in great 
clusters, as if from one root, spread outwards and 
upwards in every direction, with gentle curves, and 
crossing their tapering stems above our heads formed 
lofty natural aisles, like cloisters with groined gothic 


— — 


MOUNTAIN ROADS. : 59 


arches leading in every direction. As the road 
wound through these, the effect was most singular 
and most beautiful. Gradually as we proceeded, 
however, the path became narrower and more preci- 
pitous till it often resembled a mere ditch, just wide 
enough for the horses to tread in, and though the 
forest was often so dense that we could hardly see a 
few yards on either hand, we could sometimes per- 
ceive we were tracing the summit of a very narrow 
ridge, the ground pitching rapidly down on both 
sides into ravines, of which the depth was quite un- 
distinguishable from the density of the wood. What 
seemed to me most singular in such a lofty, broken, 
and precipitous country was that we could not see a 
bit of stone. In one of the lower ravines, indeed, 
where we crossed a considerable brook, there were 
large blocks of basaltic rock, apparently washed 
down by floods; but on these narrow ridges, of which 
the edges were so steep that we were often obliged 
to dismount to climb up them on foot, not a par- 
ticle of hard rock was to be seen. All was dark 
brown soil, or loam passing into clay. It was of the 
richest appearance, and many feet in thickness, as 
might be seen occasionally where the rains had worn 
a gully in the road. Here and there we passed one 
or two men repairing the road, having, seemingly, 
just begun to do soon our account. All they could 
do, however, was merely to shovel some loose earth 
or clay into the deep holes, which seemed to have 
been worn or dug into the soil by horses’ hoofs, as 


60 RELAY OF HORSES. 


they passed up and down. The path was in some 
places, too, so steep and slippery as to render it dif_i- 
cult either for man or horse to scramble up it. 
About one o’clock it began to rain heavily, accom- 
panied by thunder and lightning, but so dense was 
the vegetation overhead that it was some time before 
we got wet. When, however, the trees and leaves 
were once thoroughly saturated, there was no escap- 
ing it. At two p. m. we reached a little shed, where 
we found fresh horses awaiting us under the com- 
mand of the Bukkel, or chief officer of Lodo Ombo, 
the mountain village to which we were proceeding. 
He had not, however, provided a relay of coolies, 
owing to some mistake in the orders received, so 
that we were in some doubt whether the set who 
were now toiling up the mountain side with our 
baggage would be able to bring it on that night. 
However, we mounted our fresh horses, and with 
them proceeded more merrily, those which had come 
with us thus far being nearly knocked up. We still 
had some long and very steep ascents to make, and 
occasionally a rapid descent across a ravine, in 
order to gain another ridge, but presently the road 
became more level and broader, and at length we 
emerged from the lofty matted forests, and came on 
a more open country, with bushes like willows, and 
fine pine-like trees, that I afterwards learnt were 
casuarinas. We then traversed a small mountain 
plain, or shelf, with some grassy hollows and fields, 
and a few cottages and gardens; and as we were 


REACH LODO OMBO. 61 


enveloped in clouds, and it again began to rain 
heavily, we put our horses to a gallop, and at four 
p. Mm. reached the village or hamlet of Lodo Ombo. 
This was a poor little place, very different in ap- 
pearance from the villages of the plains ; the houses, 
instead of bamboo, were formed of planks very 
roughly put together, and their edges by no means 
fitting well. The roofs were generally thatch, and 
the doors, windows, and chimneys very poorly con- 
trived, the whole house looking smoke-dried and 
dirty, and the ground of the kampong very muddy. 
The passangerang, or guest house, was a smal} 
boarded house, with a narrow central room, and a 
_ dark little cabin on each side for a bed-room. The 
roof was not water tight, nor were the doors or the 
walls weather proof. As it now poured with rain, 
and we were wet through, and the wind felt raw and 
cold, we were by no means comfortable. After a 
little time, however, we got a fire in a sort of cook- 
house adjoining, where Hill’s servant, Yacoub, sat 
wrapped in a blanket, and shivering over the flame, 
the very picture of misery. It was the first time in 
his life he had ever felt cold. We also gota fire 
made in a large earthen pot, under a shed, where 
we dried our clothes. ‘The thermometer during the 
day time did not sink below 65°, but it certainly felt 
very cold, and we longed for the arrival of the coolies 
with the baggage, that we might get on some cloth 
dresses. Our fare also seemed very meagre, after 
the luxurious living of the plains, as it consisted 


62 MOUNTAIN INFLUENCES. 


principally of some tough lean fowls and some half 
cold potatoes. At this altitude, potatoes, peas, and 
other European vegetables flourish in abundance, 
and are of excellent quality. ‘The people, with 
much the same colour and cast of features, were a 
taller race than those of the plains; their manners 
also were more free and familiar, and although per- 
fectly civil and willing to oblige, they had a greater 
air of independence than we had observed anywhere 
below. From this it appears that mountains even 
in Java exercise their usual influence on their in- 
habitants, and give a taste of freedom even to the 
servile Javanese. | 

The Bukkel, or head man of the village, took a 
great liking to some cherry brandy, of which we had 
brought a bottle with us, and by no means required 
any encouragement to take his share of it, or to 
pass it round to his attendants, who equally ap- 
proved of it. A little before eight o’clock the coolies 
arrived with our baggage to our great satisfaction. 
They were fine stalwart willing fellows, and did not 
seem much knocked up with their long and heavily 
laden march up the mountain. I[ also got my baro- 
meter, and from observations made that night and 
the next morning, I calculate Lodo Ombo to be 6,413 
feet above the sea. 


CHAPTER III. 


EXTREME COLD OF 50° FAHR.—CLIMB UP THE MOUNTAIN 
—VIEW FROM THE IDER IDER—THE SANDY SEA AND 
THE BROMO—WONOSARI —TOSARI — DESCRIPTION OF A 
MOUNTAIN HOUSE—VIEW OF THE ARJUNO AND THE 
PLAIN OF SOURABAYA—RIDE DOWN TO PAKIS—OBSEQUI- 
OUSNESS OF THE WIDONO—RUINS OF DJAGO AND KEDAL— 
RIDE TO MALANG. 


Nov. 18, 1844.—I was awoke this morning 
before daylight, by the feeling of extreme cold, 
although the thermometer, in the open air, at the 
earliest dawn, did not sink below 50°. The sun- 
rise was magnificent, from the gorgeous colours that 
spread over the upper surfaces of the clouds, a little 
below us. ‘These were, however, too thick to allow 
us to see any of the lower country. We found 
Lodo Ombo to be at the head of two saucer-like 
hollows, on a ledge of the mountains, which on one 
side plunged steeply down into the clouds, and on 
the other rose into broken ridges and pinnacles that 
we had yet to climb. The hollows seemed well 
cultivated, with gardens of vegetables and a few 
fields of grass, and here and there a scattered house 
or shed apart from the kampong, (or ‘‘ dasar,” as I 
believe a village is called in the mountains). This 
‘‘ dasar’’ was surrounded by a rude fence, entered 
by one gateway. 


64 PROCEED FROM LODO OMBO. 


After a cup of tea and a piece of a dried up fowl, 
we stowed some cold potatoes into our pockets, and 
set off. We climbed right up the hills at the back 
of Lodo Ombo, by a very steep zig-zag path, and 
soon got above all the drifting clouds into the clear 
upper air. Here we crossed sgme excessively narrow 
ridges, between profound ravines, of which we could 
not see the bottom for the woods that covered their 
sides. At one place the path was not more than 
four or five feet wide, between two precipitous 
slopes, the narrow heads of two dark ravines that 
wound away down the sides of the mountain on 
either hand, into valleys that were full of boiling 
clouds. ‘These ravines were very numerous, and 
separated from each other by equally numerous 
winding knife-edged ridges, each crested with a 
row of tall and noble trees, like lofty pines. By 
eight o’clock, however, we had got above even 
these, and came out on some summits, covered with 
nothing but short coarse grass. 

Arrived at a level ridge that stretched out on 
either hand, and seemed nearly the highest ground 
about us, we turned to look over the country we 
had passed. On our left hand lay the northern or 
Java sea, with the islands about the eastern end of 
Madura dimly visible. On our right was the great 
Indian Ocean, and the island of Nusa Baron spread 
like a map before us, but still misty with the 
morning haze. Due east of us rose other mountains, 
peak behind peak, stretching towards the eastern 


MAGNIFICENT PROSPECT. 65 


end of the island, while between us and them lay a 
valley running from one sea to the other, in which 
were Klakka and Lamajang, and in the centre of 
which rose the cone of the Lamongan. This hill, 
which we had at first so much admired, we now 
looked down upon, so that had its crater been wide 
enough we could almost have seen to the bottom of 
it. It really looked quite insignificant, with its 
tiny jet of smoke, when compared to the perfect 
cone of the Semiru, which we could see on our 
right, still towering above us over the nearer peaks 
and ridges, and rolling forth at intervals huge 
volumes of smoke and steam. Below our feet lay 
the mountain-sides, that looked like a net-work of 
ridges and ravines, all winding, radiating, and sub- 
dividing downwards and outwards in seemingly 
inextricable confusion. Not a single smooth or 
continuous slope could be seen; nothing but steep 
precipitous furrows and sharp jagged crests, the 
latter crowned with a feathery-edge of pine-like 
casuarinas, the former dark with impenetrable 
wood, till both sank almost indistinguishable among 
the magnificent forests of the lower slopes. The 
sea and the plains were partially obscured by 
creeping clouds and mists, gradually dispersing ; 
while across the bosom of the distant mountains 
stretched those horizontal bars of streaky cloud, so 
characteristic of morning among mountain scenery. 

Noble as was this prospect, a new surprise 
awaited us when, advancing a few steps, we 

VOL. Il. F 


66 CRATER OF THE BROMO. 


climbed a grassy knoll, on the side of which we 
had stopped to admire it. We now found ourselves 
on the bank of a curvilinear precipice, 1,000 or 
1,200 feet deep, the wall of an ancient crater. This 
wall, which was nearly circular, embraced a space 
of fully five miles in diameter, in the centre of 
which rose a mound, composed of an agglomeration 
of small cones and craters, 600 or 800 feet high. 
One of these orifices was still active, though only 
giving forth smoke at the present moment. 

The space around this central mass, between it 
and the wall on which we stood, was a smooth sur- 
face of dark brown sand, and is called ‘“ laut pasir,” 
or ‘‘ the sandy sea.” On our right, or towards the 
north, the great bounding wall was broken down 
over a considerable space, the remaining fragment 
not being more than 200 feet high; but towards the 
left, it swept round for several miles, with a height 
of nowhere less than 1000 feet, and appeared to 
form on the inside an absolutely perpendicular pre- 
_eipice. Its top was rugged and broken, and often 
very narrow, the grassy slope on the outside being 
excessively steep, generally too much so for any one 
to climb up it. -We stood on nearly the highest 
point of this narrow ridge, at a height above the 
sea of 8,241 feet, according to my observation. This 
point is called the Ider-Jder. The active volcano 
in the centre is called the Bromo,* which name is 


* Bromo is the ceremonial Javanese word for “ fire,” the ordi- 
nary word being “ guni.” 


BOUNDARY WALL OF CRATER. 67 


sometimes applied to the whole mountain mass 
forming the eastern end of the Teng’ger. In 
order to descend with our horses into the Sandy 
sea, we turned to the left and rode along the sum- 
mit of the ridge, traversing sometimes almost knife- 
edged crests, merely wide enough for the horse 
to tread ; coasting sometimes round projecting but- 
tresses with dizzy corners, on a ledge that seemed 
to overhang the precipice, or climbing up and 
slipping down sharp ascents and descents where 
the wall was broken by a gap, or rose into a 
higher peak than usual. Still we saw no rock, not 
even a fragment of stone; the sharpest ridge, the 
steepest bank, the very face of the precipice itself, 
where it was visible, seemed all soil or loam, turning 
in the beaten path to aslippery clay. This seemed 
the strangest circumstance to me, and attracted my 
attention even from the magnificent scenery around. 
I could not understand why it had not been all worn 
down or washed away by the rain long ago. No 
doubt great degradation has taken place, but this is 
chiefly on the sides of the mountain, as shewn by the 
multitude of ravines, with their narrow dividing 
ridges. ‘The very narrowness of the present crests 
of these ridges, and the steepness of their sides, 
joined to the clayey nature of the soil, shoots off all 
the rain into the existing gullies, and any great 
destruction can only take place now, when these are 
worn so deep and so far back as to undermine the 


wall that separates them from each other, or from 
a F 2 


68 THE SANDY SEA. 


some other hollow. The coarse thick grass also now 
protects much of the outer slopes. : 
As I carried my barometer to-day myself, and 
the ponies seemed by no means so sure-footed as 
mountain horses usually are, I walked a good part 
of the way along the summit of the ridge, which 
we traversed for several miles, until we had gone 
about a third of the way round the interior “ Sandy 
sea.” It then became so far degraded and 
lowered, and the inner slope so far changed from 
a precipice to a steep bank, that by means of a 
zig-zag path the descent became practicable. At 
this part of the Sandy sea, where we descended 
into it, which I think was on the south-western 
side, the bottom of the great crater had gradually 
risen to a higher level than on the other, and it was 
partially covered with grass. As we proceeded 
however, to ride back again along the Sandy sea, at 
the foot of the precipitous wall, of “which we had 
just traversed the summit, the grass disappeared, 
and we trod a gently sloping and slightly undulating 
plain of black volcanic sand, pretty firmly com- 
pacted together. We could now perceive that the 
great wall of the Ider-Ider was not absolutely built 
of soil or clay, as thick beds of stone shewed them- 
selves in the face of the precipice, capped, however, 
by 60 or 70 feet of what appeared to be loose earth. 
These beds seemed to be horizontal in the face of 
the precipice, but no doubt dipped outwards down 
the flanks of the mountain, of which dip occasional 


CENTRAL MOUND OF CONES. 69 


indications could be seen in projecting buttresses. 
Here and there the rock appeared columnar, and 
from some fallen fragments which lay upon the plain, 
I judged to be a heavy subcrystalline porphyritic 
lava or basalt. One half or more of the height of 
the wall was an absolute precipice, with a few casua- 
rinas growing on projecting ledges, but the lower 
half was formed of a steep talus covered with long 
grass and occasional skirts of wood. 

The conical mound which rises in the centre of 
the Sandy sea,* and occupies almost half its width, 
is composed of a number of conical or dome-shaped 
masses of ashes and sand, apparently of very dif- 
ferent ages, as some were covered with thick grass 
and old trees, others with scanty woods of young 
trees, while others were still bare. All these, except 
the most recent, were furrowed by small gullies 
radiating from the summit, and subdividing as they 
descended, producing on a small scale an exact re- 
presentation of the outer slopes of the large moun- 
tains themselves. Craters, more or less worn down, 
might be seen on the summit of these mounds, but 
generally only their summits were at all distinct, 
all their lower slopes uniting into the common mass. 
The south side of this assemblage of hills seemed 
the oldest, and the vent at present active is on the 

* This name of “laut pasir,” ‘sea of sand,” is, like many 
native names, a very fanciful and not a particularly appropriate 
one; its extent by no means resembles that of a sea, and being 


on all sides bounded by a steep wall of rock, it looks even less 
than it really is. 


70 VENT AT PRESENT ACTIVE. 


north side. On approaching it, every trace of ver- 
dure disappeared for half a mile, or a mile, around 
‘it. Small heaps and mounds of ashes and powder 
covered all the plain, curiously mottled round their 
sides with concentric bands of dirty reds, whites, 
and yellows, but the general colour was dark grey. 
Channels worn by the rains traversed these in every 
direction, and the water seemed to lodge in flats 
at the foot of the outer wall on the north, which 
was therefore the lowest part of the Sandy sea. 
In riding to the foot of the active cone I was re- 
minded of parts of the South Staffordshire coal- 
field, among the great iron furnaces, where not a 
green thing is to be seen. When we reached it we 
found a double line of ladders with handrails had 
been constructed, so as to make a regular staircase 
to the brink of the crater, a height of three or four 
hundred feet. The present crater is a yawning 
funnel-shaped hole, about 300 yards wide above, 
narrowing to perhaps 50 or 60 below, and being 
probably 100 yards in depth. The bottom was 
circular, smooth, and solid looking, but on one side 
was another funnel-shaped hole, 20 or 30 yards in 
diameter, from which, with intermittent pants, 
were belched forth volumes of smoke or steam, 
while a dull continuous roar was heard below, as if 
a thousand blast furnaces were at work in the 
bowels of the mountain. There was no lava visible, 
the whole cone seeming toconsist of fine ashes, with a 
few small pebble-like cinders. Beds of sulphur were 


HEIGHTS OF CENTRE AND BOUNDARY. 71 


here and there to be seen on the broken edges of 
the crater. Near the present orifice was another 
circular space marked out at the bottom of the crater, 
quite smooth, and strewed with small pebbles, which 
_ was probably an older orifice lately filled up. 

A little detached from this cone another conical 
mound of great regularity rose from the plain, the 
surface of which was of a reddish colour, and was 
scantily covered with young trees and small bushes, 
but neither in this nor on any other part were any 
lava streams visible. The Bromo is occasionally 
much more active than when we saw it, exhibiting 
a bright light, or appearance of flames, as it was 
described to us, and throwing up hot stones, cinders, 
and ashes. I observed the barometer at the edge 
of the crater where we stood, which was its lowest 
part, and also at the edge of the Sandy sea at the 
foot of the precipice near the road to Wonosari, 
and I found that the point of the crater was 516 
feet, and the peak of the Ider-Ider 1378 feet above 
that part of the Sandy sea. Some part of the 
central mass, however, rose at least 300 feet above 
the part of the crater where I observed. This 
active vent was certainly on a small scale, and but 
an insignificant exhibition of volcanic power. Still, 
to lean over the crater and listen to the roar below, 
and watch the power with which the blasts of steam 
or smoke were blown into the air, afforded the 
mind a present measure by which to estimate and 
call up to the imagination the condition of things 


72 PRESENT CONDITION OF VOLCANOES. 


when the whole space of the Sandy sea was one 
great crater, bounded by walls of which the existing 
circuit of the Ider-Ider is, in all probability, but 
the ruin. ‘This, and all the neighbouring volcanoes, 
seemed to have long ago reached that point in their 
formation, at which the volcanic forces ceased to 
have power to eject streams of lava over the lip of 
the craters, or to burst a passage for them through 
their sides, and to have gone on for a long time 
blowing out dust and ashes, which have deeply 
buried all previous streams of lava, and covered 
them from sight. This appears to be the condition 
of Semiru, on the sides of which appear none of 
the black lava torrents so conspicuous on the cone 
of the peak of ‘Teneriffe, for in whatever aspect we 
saw Semiru its cone had the same smooth sym- 
metrical shape and light greyish tint. 

The extent of bare black sand between the active 
vent of the Bromo and the foot of the wall on the 
north is about a mile, having traversed which, we 
ascended the precipice where it was about 500 feet 
in height, by a narrow sloping road, partly cut out 
of the face of the rock. We then rode another 
mile anda half, down one of the outside ridges, to a 
village called Wonosari, a small place on an expan- 
sion of the sloping ridge we were then descending. 
This we reached a little after one o’clock, and found 
a very good wooden house, with a garden round it, 
in which were growing roses and other flowers, 
and the sitting-room had a large fire-place, on 


HEIGHT OF SEMIRU. 73 


which some logs were blazing. We found fogs and 
mist whirling about the slopes of the mountain 
below us, and had scarcely got housed before it 
began to rain heavily, and continued till between 
four and five o’clock. We found here M. Zollinger, 
a Swiss botanist, who had been travelling for two 
years in the mountains of Java, from one end of the 
island to the other. He was collecting for a Society 
in Geneva, and also for one in Batavia, and seemed 
to know the country well. He had ascended Semiru, 
being one of four persons who have accomplished 
that feat. It took him two days of great labour, 
the loose ashes of the upper cone being especially 
fatiguing. By boiling water on the summit he 
made it full 12,000 feet in height. P. Melvill von 
Carnbeé, a Lieutenant in the Dutch Navy, had 
made it 12,292 English feet by trigonometrical 
measurement, according to the Batavia Almanack.* 
M. Zollinger informed us that on the higher 
mountains of Java, there were few days throughout 
the year in which no rain falls; that the whole of 
the forenoon is almost invariably clear lovely wea- 
ther, but in the afternoon there is commonly a 


* See “Almanak voor Nederlandsch Indie, voor het Jaar, 
1845. Batavia.” <A highly creditable production for a colony, 
in which are many interesting and important articles, and among 
others, lists of the heights above the sea of all the hills and prin- 
cipal places, together with their geographical position, and the 
area of the different islands and possessions of the Dutch in the 
Kast Indies. 


74: GARDENS OF WONOSARI. 


thunder-shower, which becomes heavier and more 
protracted during the N.W. monsoon, or from the 
middle of November to that of March, during which 
time the rains spread also over the plains. He 
had been a good deal on the south coast, and de- 
scribed to me some great calcareous formations 
which ran along it, rising to a height of full 500 
feet above the sea, and full of shells and corals, 
apparently of recent species. This formation is 
principally developed in the province of Gondung 
Lagi, and also at the western extremity of the 
island.* 

The slopes of the ravines at Wonosari are laid 
out in gardens wherever it is practicable, and even 
in places where it would have appeared to me to be 
almost impossible from the precipitous nature of the 
ground. In these gardens grow excellent potatoes, 
cabbages, carrots, lettuces, peas, peaches, straw- 
berries, and other European fruits and vegetables, 
with which the towns on the coast are hence abun- 
dantly supplied. I deduced the height of the house 
at Wonosari from two observations, in the afternoon 
and morning, and made it 6,217 feet above the sea. 
In the Batavia Almanack it is given as 6,136 
Rhinland feet, which = 6,317 English, differing 
100 feet from my estimation, but whether the same 
spot was used for observation I cannot say. 

* These calcareous masses are indicated in the outline geologi- 


cal chart by Dr. Horsfield, accompanying Sir S. Raffles’s map of 
Java. 


Nov. 19.—We did not hurry ourselves this morn- 
ing, as we had only ten pauls to go to Tosari, where 
we were to pass the night. We amused ourselves 
in watching the fog as it boiled up the steep ravines 
about us and curled over our heads. M. Zollinger 
now set me right as to those noble trees which are 
such a great ornament to these mountain summits, 
and which I had hitherto taken for some kind of 
pine. He told me they were casuarinas, which 
genus, as I had only seen the small casuarinas of 
Australia with their drooping shrub-like branches, 
I had no idea ever assumed such a stately appear- 
ance. At eight o’clock we set out, returning first 
of all to the Sandy sea, by the road we had come 
down from it yesterday. On reaching it we turned 
to the right, and proceeded for two or three miles to 
its western side, when we climbed up the precipi- 
tous boundary-wall by a narrow zig-zag path of 
great steepness, and often very slippery, the clay 
being wet with yesterday’s rain. The height of the 

wall at this place was at least 800 feet. Our spirited 
little horses seemed quite used to this kind of path, 
stopping now and then to get breath, and then can- 
tering up the steepest and worst places, digging their 
hoofs into the holes and steps that were worn in the 
ground, and clutching as it were at any projecting 
prominence. They often cantered and scrambled 
up places so steep that we were obliged to throw 
ourselves on their necks to preserve our equilibrium. 
However, we thought this was taxing the willing 


RECROSS THE SANDY SEA. Bio 


76 VIEW FROM THE TENG’GER. 


little animals too heavily, so we dismounted, and 
climbed the rest of the way on foot. Arrived at 
the summit, the road passed through a narrow gap 
in the top of the ridge and then issued out onto the 
crest of one of the great outer buttresses, or lateral 
ridges, that lean against the mountain sides. Here 
we had a most glorious view, as we found ourselves 
on the northern face of the Teng’ger, and had the 
plain of Probolingo and Passarouan immediately , 
below us, at a depth of 6 or 7,000 feet, and the whole 
line of coast up to Madura and the strait of Sou- 
rabaya, with the delta of the Kediri, spread like a 
map beneath us. We could discern the houses of 
Passarouan, and the cultivated plain around it, with 
its square fields of different kinds of crops, looking 
like a carpet richly chequered with various shades 
of green, yellow, and purple. On each side of us, 
broken ridges, richly clothed with wood, pitched 
steeply down into a fold of snow-white cloud, that 
clung to the sides of the mountains, and crept 
stealthily up the ravines in wreaths of mist, that 
gradually dissipated as they approached the summits. 
As we proceeded along the sinuosities of the moun- 
tain on our narrow winding ledge, that now began 
rapidly to descend, we caught glimpses of Mount 
Arjuno, with its three peaks rising very grandly out of 
a basal ring of cloud, about twenty-five miles distant 
on our left. After some long and steep descents, we 
reached a point where the buttress we were on 
widened and became more level, affording space for 


HOTEL OF TOSARI. ay 


a small village and some gardens. Here there was 
a very fair hotel, kept by a Dutchman, named Tem- 
pleman, who spoke no English, but was very civil 
and obliging. This place is called Tosari, and is 
well known asa place of resort for invalids requiring 
the bracing air of the mountains, or for parties of 
pleasure from Passarouan and the neighbourhood. 
Here, of course, we found all the necessaries and 
luxuries of life, and among other things, bread, 
which we had not seen for the last seven days, as 
the Javanese substitute for it rice in the plains, and 
potatoes in the mountains. ‘The hotel is just on the 
brow of the ledge looking down onto the plains and 
the sea. It stands in a court-yard, surrounded by 
a bamboo fence, in which are some other houses for 
servants. Under a shed, on one side of the court- 
yard, was a gamelang, or native band, that saluted 
us with ‘‘ Rajah datang,” as we approached, and 
played other tunes occasionally during the day. The 
village outside was a straggling one along the ridge, 
and not, as usual, enclosed in afence. The houses, 
as in all these mountain villages, were very different 
from those of the plains. In the latter the houses 
of the peasantry are composed almost entirely of 
bamboo, the poles and posts of the stouter pieces of 
that plant, and the walls generally of split bamboo 
woven into mats, the roof being thatched with large 
mats of attop, or the leaves of the Nipah palm. The 
mountain houses, on the contrary, are built of plank. 
The posts and beams are made of casuarina, roughly 


78 MOUNTAIN HOUSES. 


squared ; the planks, which form the walls, are made 
from trees split by wedges, and roughly dressed 
down with anadze. They are, therefore, both thick 
and rugged. The roof is commonly thatched with 
reeds or grass, but sometimes with shingles, and 
there is generally a projecting piazza, or verandah, 
carried round the house, just under the roof, which 
is covered with bamboos split in half, the hollow 
part being alternately upwards and downwards, their 
edges overlapping,* so as to form a succession of 
gutters, to carry off the water from the roof, and 
prevent its falling against the sides of the house. 
We visited one of these houses under the guidance 
of Mr. Templeman. _ It was very long for its height 
and width. ‘The door was at the side at a little 
distance from one end, and on entering there was 
found to be only one long low apartment, occupying 
the whole length of the house. There was a 
raised space along the end of the house nearest 
the door, and the middle and largest part of the 
house had a slightly raised space on each side, 
leaving a passage between on the bare ground. 
These raised spaces were frames of bamboo, covered 
with mats, and were not more than five or six inches 
high. ‘The farther end of the apartment was occu- 
pied by a square raised stove or fireplace built of 
brick, round which were boards for seats about two 
inches above the ground. On each side of the stove 


* Just as curved tiles are sometimes used in England for the: 
roof of a cottage. 


MOUNTAIN HOUSES. 19 


were two dark dirty-looking cabins, the sleeping 
apartments of the family. At this end, under the 
gable of the roof, was a small window, closed by a 
shutter on hinges. There was no chimney, nor 
any other opening, except the door. Overhead 
were racks, on which were spears and agricultural 
instruments, and other things. This, with the roof 
and indeed all the interior, was black and shining 
from the constant smoke; for when it rains or is 
cold they shut the door and window, and fill the 
room with smoke, which they think warm and com- 
fortable; its only method of escape then is by oozing 
through the thatch. The raised parts which occupy 
the sides of by far the larger part of the house, were 
(we were informed) used only at feasts, such as 
marriage ceremonies, and the reception of visitors. 
On such occasions the end near the door is occupied 
by musicians, and the males and females are ar- 
ranged in the centre of the house, one on one side, 
the other on the other. Small fires are then lighted 
at intervals down the central passage on the ground, 
on which are kept pots of coffee and other refresh- 
ments, with attendants near them to serve them out 
to the company. ‘There were no partitions in the 
house, except the bulk-heads or boarded ones of the 
cabins near the stove. The aspect of the interior 
resembled the ‘“ ’tween decks ” 
dirty ship. This was said to be a good specimen 
of one of the mountain houses, all of which are on 
the same plan. They generally stand pretty close 


of an excessively 


80 INHABITANTS OF THE TENG GER. 


together, huddled up without any order or arrange- 
ment, surrounded by a paling, forming thus a small 
kampong or dasar, accessible by only one gate, but 
totally destitute of the fruit-trees which give so 
much beauty to the kampongs of the plains, and 
conceal their otherwise mean appearance and dirty 
condition. 

The inhabitants of the mountains, especially of 
those called the Teng’ger, differ from the people of 
the plains not only in their dwellings, but to a certain 
extent in their persons, being taller and more ro- 
bust, and also intheir manners andcustoms. Remains 
of an ancient form of the religion of the Hindoos 
are said still to linger among them, with many 
superstitious observances. ‘They bear an excellent 
character for honesty and general morality, as well 
as for industry and frugality, and are said often to 
accumulate wealth. They supply all the towns of 
the coast with European vegetables and fruits, 
besides growing maize, tobacco, and other things 
for their own consumption. ‘They are said com- 
monly to hoard the money they receive for their 
produce, concealing it in the posts of their houses, 
which they make hollow for the purpose; and I was 
told of instances of an old man having been found 
at his death worth ten, fifteen, or even twenty thou- 
sand rupees, or from 500/. to more than 1,100/. 
sterling. 

As usual it began to rain at two p.m., with thunder 
and lightning, and ceased between four and five 


LIKENESS TO SWISS SCENERY. 81 


o'clock. I then took an opportunity of walking with 
Mr. Templeman through his garden, which was 
spacious and well kept, and full of European fruits 
and vegetables. It was indeed precisely like a 
large English kitchen garden, with a greater exu- 
berance and rankness of growth. The soil seemed 
wonderfully thick, as there was a new ditch, five or 
six feet deep, which had not penetrated through the 
rich dark vegetable mould, and yet just over his 
fence the ground pitched down 500 or 600 feet, at 
an angle that would make walking very difficult : 
still even that was cultivated. 

Nov. 20.—This morning everything below us was 
obscured by clouds, but as usual it was fine over- 
head. We set off at half-past six, and immediately 
descended into a ravine, and then climbed the oppo- 
site slope; then curving round the shoulder of a 
ridge, the road wound at a level round a deep recess, 
in the hollow of which below us was a very neat- 
looking and tolerably clean “ dasar,” of which, as 
we looked down upon it, we could only see the long 
sloping roofs and overhanging verandahs. It put 
me in mind of views of Swiss scenery with their 
mountain villages. 

As we looked across the valley, at the road on the 
opposite slope, it seemed the merest possible ledge, 
but we found it a very fair one, sufficiently wide for 
three to ride abreast, and it climbed the crest of the 
next ridge, till we again stood on the summit of the 
Teng’ger, and prepared to descend its southern side, 

VOL. II. G 


82 VIEW OF THE ARJUNO. 


towards the town of Pakis. M. Zollinger had 
recommended us to visit that place, in order to 
examine some ancient ruins near it, which he des- 
cribed as very beautiful. The mist and clouds had 
now pretty well dispersed, and we again enjoyed a 
splendid view of the plain to the northward, as far 


as Sourabaya, but the most beautiful object now was. 


the Arjuno. This mountain, the height of which 
is given in the Dutch Almanack, as 11,934 English 
feet, rises with a noble sweep from the sloping land 
around it, and is covered nearly to its summit with 
magnificent forests. It is not so symmetrical as 
Semiru, as it has three small summit cones, rather 
irregularly formed, one of which still occasionally 
rolls out a considerable volume of smoke. Porrong 
hill, a miniature of itself, rises to the north of it, 
and a grassy ridge stretches from its southern base, 
uniting it with Mount Kawi, another fine group of 
hills, the height of which is probably six or eight 
thousand feet. 

In descending on the south side of the mountains, 
the slope was at first inconsiderable, and we passed 
through several grassy hollows, but as we proceeded, 
the inclination became more rapid, and the road was 
very slippery, the clay being wet with the daily rain. 
On one steep slope my pony fell, and treated me to 
a roll on the grass. Fortunately, I had given my 
barometer to a coolie to carry. ‘The Javanese are 


accustomed to saddle their horses so far forward, . 


that in going down hill, the weight is thrown almost 


gt is 
”~ 


HORSES NOT SURE-FOOTED. 83 


in front of the horse’s shoulder, onto his neck. My 
saddle had no crupper, but luckily my shot pouch 
had a round strap,* which answered very well for 
one, and on properly adjusting the saddle with it, 
I found the animal’s paces and sure-footedness much 
improved. ‘This was the fourth time one of these 
ponies had come down with some of the party, so 
that though they boast of their sure-footedness, it 
does not seem to be with much reason. After pro- 
ceeding some distance, still descending, we came to 
the head of a narrow and steep ravine ; down one 
side of which, the road wound at such an inclina- 
tion, and with so slippery a surface, that all the 
party were obliged to dismount, and even then we 


had some difficulty in keeping our own footing, and 


8) 
in preventing our horses from rolling headlong. In 
this ravine we took leave of the casuarinas and 
grassy summits, and began again to enter forests of 
a more rich and tropical vegetation. ‘Tree-ferns 
abounded in these sequestered dells, in the most 
graceful profusion, while teak, and other magnifi- 
cent-looking forest trees, wreathed and festooned 
with parasites, met the eye in every direction. It is 
hopeless, however, to attempt with any word-painting 

* Should this meet the eye of any one who purposes travelling 
beyond the bounds of Christendom, let him take care to lay in an 
unlimited stock of straps, of all kinds and sizes, carefully oiled 
and packed, with their buckles, &. I do not know any one 
article, he will find so decidedly inferior to the English, in 
strength and endurance, as the leather of foreign countries, 
whether for straps, shoes, or other purposes. 


G2 


84 CASCADE HIDDEN BY PLANTS. 


- to convey an adequate idea of the combined richness 
beauty and elegance, the dense shade and fresh 
moist sparkling verdure of these secluded and 
romantic valleys. In the depth of this ravine ran a 
brook, which we could hear leaping from ledge to 
ledge, but could not see for the overhanging foliage, 
and when, near the bottom of the valley, we crossed 
it by a wooden bridge, its waters were still hidden 
from us, by what looked like a bank of vegetation 
(bushes made solid by creepers) arching over it on 
either hand. Close to this bridge, one side of the 
ravine rose up in a perfect precipice, down which 
fell a cascade that from the sound must have been 
of considerable size, a yard in breadth, I should 
think, at least. But though it fell within three yards 
of me, and joined the brook beneath the bridge, 
not a drop of it could I see, for the whole face of 
the steep hill, besides being covered with lofty trees 
wherever they could find a footing, was so densely 
crowded with undergrowth, ferns of all descriptions, 
great broad-leafed plants of several varieties, and 
such a mantle of creepers, as to hide from the sight 
everything beneath it, and form a dense and imper- 
vious screen over rock and waterfall. Some of the 
spray actually wetted me as it dropped from the plants 
above, and I took some pains to try and find an 
opening, but not a peep could I get at the cascade. 
While, however, the vegetable world is displayed 
with such profusion, there is rather a remarkable 
absence of animal life in these mountains. We did 


RECEPTION AT KOBONSARI. 85 


not see a single quadruped, nor do I recollect any 
birds, certainly there were none remarkable either 
for beauty of plumage or sound of voice. ‘The 
animal creation seemed to prefer the more open 
spaces of the lower slopes of the mountains, and 
the plains at their feet. 

Emerging from this ravine into a wider valley, a 
lovely green lane led us thence along the sides of the 
mountains, on which there were now occasionally 
open grassy spaces and partial cultivation, and one 
or two detached houses, and presently we came 
among some coffee plantations and a village or two. 
This was a most delicious country, the road bordered 
with the greenest turf, and the undulations not too 
abrupt even for a gallop, the air cool and fresh, and 
the scenery around varied and beautiful. A little 
before 10 o'clock we reached a place called Ko- 
bonsari, where we were to halt for breakfast and a 
change of horses. Our reception here was charac- 
teristic of the country. Twomen had preceded us 
all the way armed with spears, the blades of which 
were about two feet long, and were kept in a wooden 
sheath, the handles being 8 or 10 feet long. These 
were carried upright in the right hand without 
a rest. As we approached the halting place the 
spearmen pressed into a gallop down the narrow 
road between the fences of the coffee grounds, and 
we followed their example, while the rest of our 
escort, of about ten or a dozen men, came clattering 
behind us. As soon as we came within sight of the 


86 ENGLISH MANUFACTURES. 


gate of the kampong, a large gamelang clanged 
forth a welcome, a troop of men poured out, the 
spearmen threw themselves from their horses at the 
gate, charging through which we entered a small 
court-yard, where a crowd of servitors pressed for- 
ward to hold our stirrups, take our horses, marshal 
us into a rude kind of pandopo, and receive our 
hats and jackets, while one or two others presented 


- us with basins of water and towels. Before we could 


dry our hands and faces, a cup of tea was at our 
elbow, and a tray of excellent confectionary, while 
the table was garnished with pine-apples, mangos, 
water-melons, and a variety of other fruits. As the 
place seemed small and poor, and there did not ap- 
pear to be any one present of a higher rank than the 
head of a kampong, we were rather surprised even 
at this display ; but lo! and behold! no sooner did 
we slacken in our attentions to these viands than 
they were removed, and the table soon covered with 
a hot breakfast of twenty different dishes, that 
rivalled even the luxurious meals of the Rongo of ~ 
Lamajang. What was, perhaps, most singular, 
when we considered where we were, the table was 
covered with English cutlery, the table-cloth proba- 
bly was of English manufacture, and on turning up 
a plate I found it came from the Staffordshire Pot- 
teries. Wedgewood has beat China, even at its own 
door. | | 

Soon after we sat down, our coolies arrived with 
the baggage; and IT was enabled to observe the 


HONESTY OF THE COOLIES. 87 


height of the barometer, from which I deduced the 
height of Kobonsari above the sea to be 3,441 feet- 

[ had at first some hesitation at trusting my ba- 
rometer to the hands of a coolie, but I found it by 
far the best plan. I always took it out of its case, 
and shewed it to him first, that he might have an 
idea of its fragility, and then shewed him how to 
carry it, and often passed him on the road, after 
setting off, studiously holding it in the same position, 
with a face of the utmost gravity and earnestness, 
and sometimes, I think, a little awe of so incom- 
prehensible an instrument. Our baggage was car- 
ried partly slung on poles of bamboo, and partly 
on a square bamboo frame, like a handbarrow with 
sides. In this, various minor articles were frequently 
left loose and open, but we never lost anything, nor 
had anything injured from any of the sets of coolies 
we employed, and they generally arrived at the 
halting places in a surprisingly short time after we 
ourselves reached it on horseback. A more willing, 
obedient, honest, and hard-working set of people 
indeed no one could have wished for. 

After an hour’s halt at Kobonsari, we proceeded 
with fresh horses, and rode for one or two miles 
down gentle slopes, in a green lane, between coffee 
plantations, the bushes of which were now covered 
with green berries in great profusion. We then 
crossed a little valley of long grass or alang alang, 
after which we came to the foot of a ridge covered 
with loose blocks of stone. This was the first stoney 


88 THE WIDONO OF PAKIS. 


place I had seen in these mountains, the rock was a 
hard crystalline grey trachyte. Climbing up this 
ridge we came upon a small pandopo, where we 
found the Widono of Pakis and a party of mounted 
attendants, waiting to escort us into his district. 
For another hour we continued rapidly descending 
a succession of slopes, more or less steep and slip- 
pery, through an alternation of forests and coffee 
grounds, till a little after noon we suddenly emerged 
from our narrow shady lane into an open plain, 
covered with rice-fields and villages, and scattered 
patches only of forest and jungle. Here the road 
was broad and excellent, with a bare carriage way 
in the centre, and. bordered with wide margins of 
turf at the sides. The Widono, who was rather a 
tall man, of about fifty years, with exceeding gravity 
of countenance, now put his forces into something 
like military array. We found we formed a body of 
thirty horsemen, independent of several others who 
had stayed behind with Hill, who was not well, and 
Evans, who remained to come quietly on with him. 
The Widono sent on one of his attendants, appa- 
rently a petty chief, about sixty yards in advance. 
He himself, and his Bukkel, or lieutenant, stationed 
themselves immediately behind Captain Blackwood 
and me, and the rest formed two irregular lines 
astern, four of them carrying long spears, and one 
a brightly-polished musket, belonging to the Wi- 
dono. The chief and his officers were handsomely 
dressed, with ornamented krisses, blue and red cloth 


PASSANGERANG OF PAKIS. 89 


over their saddles, and silver trappings to their 
horses, and the whole train were well clothed and 
armed, blue and red being the predominant colours. 
As we cantered along at the head of such a hand- 
some escort we must have had a very mean appear- 
ance in our dirty shooting dresses and dingy straw 
hats. Our white faces, however, made up for all 
other deficiencies in our personal appearance, and 
seemed to assure us the most unbounded respect. 
After an hour’s canter across the plain, we reached 
Pakis. This seemed a very straggling place, con- 
sisting of several detached kampongs around a large 
open grassy space, through which ran a small 
valley and a brook that was dammed up into seve- 
ral pools of water. The passangerang was on one 
side of the Widono’s court-yard, close to his house. 
It was as comfortable as usual, but rather confined. 
The Widono’s house was large, built chiefly of 
bamboo, and in the centre of the court-yard was a 
very spacious and lofty pandopo, floored with brick 
and partly covered with mats. Here he seemed to 
transact business and receive visitors, as, soon after 
we arrived, we observed a group of people sitting 
down init, to whom he came and seemed to be either 
deciding a dispute, or giving orders. Every man, 
as he addressed him; raised his joined hands before 
his face, and ‘bowed the head at the close of 
each sentence. We had the usual heavy rain 
from two to four o’clock, after which we thought we 
would go and have a swim in one of the pools we 


90 ESCORTED TO BATHE. 


had observed on coming in. No sooner was our in- 
tention perceived, however, by our walking down 
the court-yard with towels in our hands, than a 
messenger was sent into the house to the Widono, 
and out he came after us with two spearmen and a 
troop of attendants, who took our towels, and then 
posted themselves behind us, and followed all our 
movements with the greatest gravity as we went 
along looking for a convenient spot to bathe in. At 
last they begged us to go towards a bridge as the 
best place, and the Widono sent half a dozen men 
into the water to clear away the weeds, while the 
others stood by us ready to take each article of 
clothing as we pulled it off, and hold it for us, the 
Widono and his spearmen being posted on the bank 
to superintend operations. We found the water 
rather shallow and muddy, but as I caught sight of 
some freshwater shells, I waded about to collect 
them, and got several kinds belonging to the genera 
paludina, lymnea, planorbis, cyrena, and cyclas. 
During all this time there stood the Widono and his 
spearmen and servitors, waiting patiently on the 
bank, a man stepping forward to receive the shells 
whenever. I got my hands full, till I pleased to come 
out and dress again, and then we all marched back 
in solemn procession. We could not induce even 
the Widono to walk in line with us, and whenever 
we turned to address him in our imperfect Malay, 
he bowed with a grave and deferential air, till at 
length I could hardly refrain from laughing in his 


OBSEQUIOUSNESS OF PEOPLE. O91 


face. At dinner, which was as abounding and well 
cooked as usual, we sent to request his company and 
assistance to dispatch his own entertainment, but 
he sat like Baillie Macwheeble, in Waverley, on the 
edge of his chair, half a yard from the table, and 
seemed overpowered by our condescension, while 
we were equally oppressed with our own greatness. 

Just before sunset, when the clouds cleared off, I 
strolled out to look at the surrounding country, 


- which we could not see from the house for the 


groves of cocoa-nuts and areca-palms, and other 
trees. I thought I had succeeded in making my 
exit unperceived, but though I dodged the spear- 
men, I had soon four other fellows at my heels, 
with a “‘ where shall I go —what shall I do for you” 
expression of countenance that capsized my equani- 
mity. Under a pandopo outside the gate I found 
the worthy Widono standing, and giving orders to 
half a dozen petty chiefs who were squatting before 
him, and as soon as he caught sight of me, he caused 
them to shift their places, and squat down on the 
other side, apparently that they might not have 
their backs towards me as I passed. I soon tired 
of walking with four people at my back, and felt as 
if under espionage, which at one time I was half 
inclined to suspect must be the real object of all this 
attendance, but, I believe, quite unjustly, and that 
it was merely a mark of respect, for on pulling out 
a cigar, one of them rushed into a neighbouring 
house, and brought a burning stick to light it with, 


O2 RUINED SHRINES OF DJAGO. 


and all seemed only to wait for an opportunity of 
being of use to me. I fancy Pakis is out of the re- 
gular route of European travellers, as the attend- 
ance at other places, while sufficiently ample, was 
not so burdensome as here. 

Nov. 21.—We sent off our coolies direct to 
Malang, the principal town of the district, but went 
ourselves a few miles round to visit the ruins. We 
first of all went east about four miles, to Djago, 
which we reached at eight o’clock. Here, on a 
slightly rising ground, in an open space, embosomed 
in the forest a little to the left of the road, were the 
ruins of two small Hindoo temples or shrines. They 
were both built on the same plan, but one of them 
was much more richly ornamented than the other. 
This was a quadrangular building, the base of 
which was seventy-nine feet long by forty-six broad. 
It had four stories or compartments, each receding 
several feet within the edge of the one on which it 
rested. Each compartment was seven or eight feet 
high, and the uppermost had a narrow arched door- 
way leading into a small chamber in which there 
had been a statue of some Hindoo deity. The 
stories were reached by a narrow flight of steps on 
each side of the front of the building, which was 
adorned by several figures beautifully sculptured in 
alto-relievo. ‘The sides of the stories were adorned 
with friezes, one of which consisted of a series of 
figures of men and women and animals, among the 
latter of which we could make out an elephant, a 


ELEGANT ARCHITECTURE. 93 


tiger, and some rams and pigs. Above and below 
were scrolls ornamented with richly-carved foliage. 
The leaf of the lotus frequently occurred as an 
ornament, and behind this temple was a circular 
pedestal elegantly decorated with carved lotus-leaves, 
on which had been a small column, perhaps the 
lingam. ‘The other temple, which was about thirty 
yards distance, in a parallel position, was nearly 
destroyed by trees growing about it. It was much 
plainer than the first, the sides being devoid of 
ornament or sculpture. The buildings were all of 
stone, the principal parts of a rock, dark soft and 
earthy, close-grained with black patches; but all 
the sculpture and carved work was cut in blocks of 
a hard, crystalline, brittle, grey trachyte, or trachytic 
porphyry. The whole style and design of these 


buildings was chaste and elegant, and the work- 


manship of a neat and refined character. Backed 
by the dark-matted forest, and surrounded with 
rich soft turf, they formed really most beautiful 
objects. The Widono said the people still venerated 
these temples, and sent their sick to make pilgrim- 
ages to them; and we observed several of our escort 
make a kind of obeisance as they ascended the steps. 
Several sculptured blocks had apparently been 
picked up and replaced on the sides of the steps, 
though evidently not in their proper positions ; and 
a kind of sloping platform of old bricks and broken 
blocks of masonry had been recently constructed, 
leading to the front of the temple. 


O4: BEAUTY OF THE COUNTRY. 


_ A pandopo stood a little on one side at the edge 
of the wood, where we found a table as usual spread 
with tea, cakes, and fruit, after partaking of which 
we mounted for Kedal. This was a few miles dis- 
tant towards the south-west, and the ride thither was 
beyond measure delightful. A broad road, ap- 
parently little used, as it was a complete carpet of 
short green turf, led us across a gently undulating 
champaign country, passing now through patches 
of beautiful forest, now through open rice-fields, or 
small plains of alang alang. Here and there was 
an.isolated hill, steep and rocky looking, crowned 
with clumps of noble trees, while sparkling brooks 
and rills kept the refreshing sight and sound of 
falling water continually in our ears. Of these rills 
many were artificial, and conducted from one expanse 
of rice-fields to another. In the fields people were 
‘ busy ploughing, or engaged in other agricultural 
operations, while here and there a grove of fruit- 
trees, with cocoa-nuts, areca-palms, and clusters of 
bamboos, rising among them, shewed the situation 
of the native villages. Round this lovely country 
swept a semicircle of mountains of equally beautiful 
and magnificent forms and dimensions, the Kawi 
and Arjuno bounding it on the west, the broken 
ridge of the Teng’ger on the north, and the stately 
Semiru raising its lofty cone into the blue sky on 
the east. ‘To the south some much lower undulat- 
ing ridges shut out the view of the sea, above which 
we were elevated about 1500 feet, the Widono’s 


ad 
RUINED TEMPLE OF KEDAL. 95 


house at Pakis being 1550 feet above it by my ob- 
servations. The air accordingly was clear and cool, 
and the temperature by no means too great for 
enjoyment, never rising above 80° in the shade. 
We could hardly fancy ourselves in the tropics ; in- 
deed, so fresh and smiling was the country, that one 
almost expected, on riding from some of the belts of 
wood onto open park-like slopes, to see some noble 
mansion or country-seat on the declivity beyond. 
I could have pitched on sites for a dozen such which 
would be unsurpassable in beauty and pleasantness 
of situation, and with a little congenial society could 
imagine no better or happier country to reside in 
than this. After a ride of about four miles from 
Djago we crossed a considerable brook, the stream 
of which was almost entirely drained off higher up 
for the purpose of irrigation. We then turned 
sharply to the left down a green alley in the woods, 
and came to a beautiful forest glade, in the centre of 
which were the ruins of Kedal. This was a Hindoo 
temple of a different form from those of Djago, 
being larger and more in the style of what we un- 
derstand by the word pagoda. ‘The principal part 
was a large quadrangular tower on a base of 24 
feet square, surrounded by several low walls crossing 
each other at right angles, and forming now several 
square enclosures, the walls having never apparently 
been much higher than at present, or about four 
feet. The central building had one or two stories 
receding upwards to a small square tower, above 


96 MOUNDS OF ANCIENT BRICKS. 


which it again swelled out with narrow overhanging 
ledges, and then rapidly receded by small steps to a 
point. Monstrous faces with boar’s tusks were carved 
on the centre of each side of this upper part, anda 
horrid satyr-like figure was placed at each corner of 
the base of the building. There were likewise 
carved scrolls and other ornaments and sculpture, 
of which we had not time to take the description. 
At the edge of the dense forest which entirely sur- 
rounded this building, at a distance of about 100 
yards, I observed some bricks, and on penetrating at 
one or two points found everywhere mounds and 
hollows ; the mounds seeming to consist altogether of 
old bricks covered with turf and bushes. These 
bricks were the ruins of the houses of the ancient 
inhabitants. 

At a convenient spot between the temple and the 
forest stood a small but good pandopo, where a 
white table cloth waving in the breeze, spoke of 
more refreshments, and after looking over the ruins 
we found a luxurious hot breakfast awaiting us, 
cooked in the neighbouring village, and brought in 
covered boxes of bamboo. We could not but ad- 
mire the taste of the natives, which had led them to 
select such a spot for a rural meal. It would have 
made a lovely picture from where we sat; the silent 
half ruined temple, the rank and luxuriant forest, 
and the open glade with groups of horses and natives 
reposing in the shelter of a few scattered*trees, and 
the four spearmen seated on a mat with their tall 


DISCOMPOSE THE ESCORT. Q7 


weapons held upright in their hands before them. 
We could not, however, afford to linger here, as it 
was necessary to be under cover before the afternoon 
rain set in, so at eleven o’clock we mounted again, 
and regaining the road, galloped up from the valley 
onto some open downs covered with long waving 
alang alang. 

We here tried to break up the formality of the 
march a little, and suddenly charging the two 
spearmen who rode about a hundred yards a-head, 
succeeded in passing them, to their affected dis- 
comfiture, but great apparent enjoyment. The 
Widono seemed to consider himself bound to keep 
as near behind us as he could, and we had a regular 
race occasionally, till the blowing of our horses 
called us to pull up, and the spearmen regained 
their places. Even the grave old Widono seemed 
at last unable to resist the fun of the thing, and 
burst into a hearty laugh, while all his attendants 
dismissed their seriousness at once, and we pro- 
ceeded amidst frequent roars of laughter. The 
young Bukkel especially, the Widono’s next officer 
or lieutenant, assumed an animated spirited look, 
and his black eyes began to sparkle as we spoke to 
him of field sports, through Hill’s interpretation, 
and I have no doubt he would, on a little acquaint- 
ance, have proved an excellent companion in the 
field. We crossed one or two brooks, running to 
the south, as we approached Malang, and got upon 
a broad excellent road, that seemed one of the 

VOL. Il. H 


98 APPEARANCE OF MALANG. 


antiquities of the country, as it was based occasion- 
ally on an old causeway of bricks of the same kind 
as those near the ruins of Kedal. Bricks made by 
the Javanese of the present day are much inferior 
to these ancient ones. 

A little after noon we entered Malang, which 
seemed a very considerable place. We passed by a 
large market, and down a street, inhabited princi- 
pally by Chinese, with inscriptions on the door- 
posts and gateways, and then turning short to the 
right, galloped on to a very spacious piece of turf, 
forming the centre of a noble square, ornamented 
by large and handsome houses, with pleasure- 
grounds about them. Crossing this, we rode down 
two more streets or roads, bordered by native 
houses and kampongs for about half a mile, till we 
reached the northern suburb of the town, where, on 
a rising ground beyond a bridge, we found an 
excellent passangerang. ‘This was a spacious, sub- 
stantial, brick house, with a flower-garden and 
grass-plot in front, and a green slope behind, down 
to a rocky brook. It was also a regular hotel, 
where we could call for what we pleased, and pay 
for it. 

About a musket-shot below us, on the other side 
of the road, was an irregular white building, forming 
barracks for thirty solders. It was well posted, as 
it commanded the main road, and the bridge over 
the brook, which has steep precipitous banks, 20 or 
30 feet deep. The brook has a rocky bed, and is 


UNDULATING PLAIN. 99 


full of great boulders, brought down by floods. 
The rocks were all igneous or volcanic, varieties of 
trachytic lavas and basalts. A little above the 
bathing-place, at the back of the hotel, the sides of 
the brook rose into steep wooded precipices one or 
two hundred feet in height. 

The country about, although looking like a plain 
when seen from the neighbouring mountains, is 
abruptly undulating, with steep eminences in many 
places, and is furrowed by small ravines formed by 
the many brooks which traverse it, and which 
eventually join to form the river Kediri. 


CHAPTER IV. 


CIGAR MANUFACTORY—RUINS OF SINGHA SARI — NATIVE 
MARKETS—BATU—HOT WELL—ANTANG ~ PLEASANT AND 
FERTILE SITUATION —EXCELLENT HORSES—SOLITARY RIDE 
DOWN THE VALLEY — WONOSALAM — VALLEY OF THE 
KEDIRI—DISTANT MOUNTAINS — MAJOAGO — MORTALITY 
AMONG THE HORSES—RUINS OF MAJOPAHIT—ARRIVE AT 


MAJOKERTO—LOCKS ON THE KEDIRI—RETURN TO SOUR- 
ABAYA. 


November 21, 1844.—As soon as the afternoon 
rain had ceased, we walked out to look at the town, 
leaving Hill, however, in bed, as he had become 
very unwell. I eventually made the height of the 
hotel at Malang, 1428 feet above the sea, so that 
the mean height of this district may be taken at 
between 1400 to 1500 feet. Notwithstanding this 
altitude, and its being thirty miles distant from the 
sea-shore, cocoa-nuts were abundant, perfect groves 
of that and other palms surrounding the town, and 
overshadowing the roads between the kampongs. 
These roads were now rather muddy and ill-kept, 
as were also the court-yards and approaches to 
several of the houses, whether native, Chinese, or 
European. ‘The Chinese seemed to be here in 
great numbers, and we went over a considerable 
cigar manufactory belonging to one of them. Ma- 
lang is the principal place for this manufacture in 


CIGAR MANUFACTORY. 101 


Java, but whether from want of care or skill in the 
business, or from the inferiority of the plant, they 
by no means equal, or even approach, the produc- 
tions of Manilla. The Spaniards, indeed, both in 
the eastern and western hemispheres, are the only 
nation who have succeeded in making first-rate 
cigars. As we walked about the town we found 
ourselves attended by one or two well-dressed Java- 
nese servants, leading a handsome piebald pony, 
and discovered at length they were sent by the 
Regent to wait on us. We saw also in one or two 
parts of the town much handsomer and finer-looking 
horses than we had hitherto met with, and under- 
stood they came from Bima, in Sumbawa. 

On our return to the hotel, we found from our 
sick friend, Hill, that M. Dickelman, the Assistant- 
resident, had been to call on us, and just as we had 
finished dinner he came again. 

He was remarkably civil and attentive, and 
seemed an active, intelligent man. He had resided 
twenty-eight years in Java, eleven of which he 
had spent at Malang, but had no marks in his 
appearance of so long a residence in the tropics, 
and told us he had never been ill, except at 
Batavia and another place on the coast. He 
informed us that the town and district of Malang 
contained 80,000 inhabitants, and that it produced 
and sent down to Passarouan 80,000* picul of 


* About 4,872 tons. This quantity seems so enormous that I 
fear 1 must have made some mistake. 


102 PRODUCTIONS OF MALANG. 


coffee annually, besides tobacco and cigars, and 
the rice and other grain raised principally for 
their own consumption. There certainly ap- 
peared to be an immense production or transport of 
some kind of produce, for the main road to Passa- 
rouan ran about fifty yards in front of the hotel, and 
during the two days and nights we remained there, 
one ceaseless stream of. bullock-waggons seemed 
to be passing along it. At night this was especially 
the case, for at whatever hour I awoke I heard the 
creak of their wooden wheels and the cries of. their 
drivers. 

We had observed to-day in the Chinese, and in 
some of the native houses, European furniture and 
utensils, and have never yet, either on the coast 
or in the interior, met with a beggar, or any 
one with ragged clothing, or of an emaciated or 
poverty-stricken appearance. The mass of the 
people certainly were well clothed, fed, and housed, 
and I might say well armed, and furnished with 
good tools. Whatever, therefore, the nature of the 
Dutch Government may be, it is plain it is not 
incompatible with the material comfort of the 
people during ordinary seasons. In times of 
scarcity, however, I believe great distress occurs, as 
the mass of the people accumulate no property,* 
but live entirely from hand to mouth. 


* M. Dickelman ascribed much of their poverty to the prac- 
tice of chewing opium, and the greater wealth of the Teng’ger 
people to their freedom from that expensive habit. 


RUINS OF SINGHA SARI. 103 


Nov. 22.—We rode to-day about seven miles 
out, on the road to Passarouan, to visit the ruins of 
Singha sari. We were astonished at the number of 
people on the road, horse and foot passengers and 
bullock-waggons forming a continuous stream, both 
of people going from and coming to Malang. ‘The 
country gradually rose towards the north, the direc. 
tion in which we were proceeding, and the road 
made apparently for a low ridge, forming a gap 
between the Arjuno and the mountains of the 
Teng’ger. All the land seemed well cultivated, and 
carefully irrigated, though most of it was now 
fallow, or being ploughed and harrowed. The 
plough was very simple. ‘The coulter was nothing 
but a large knife, stuck onto the end of a long 
bent handle, forming the tail, and from the junction 
of the two a long piece of wood projected forward, 
at the end of which was the cross piece or yoke for 
the oxen to pull it along. ‘The harrow is equally 
simple, being nothing but a large rake, drawn by 
oxen, with the man who drives them sitting on the 
cross-piece. ‘The small brown oxen, something 
like the Brahmin bull in shape, are most commonly 
used, and are said to stand the heat better than the 
great buffalo or mud ox, the skin of which is of a 
dark mouse colour, and nearly hairless, and which 
has huge spreading horns. ‘The small brown oxen 
are much the handsomer beasts of the two, being 
delicately and elegantly formed, and the calves 
might often at a little distance be mistaken for deer. 


104 RUINS OF SINGHA SARI. 


About seven miles from Malang, we came to a 
wissel-post, with the usual large shed over the road, 
and just beyond we passed a large market on our 
right hand, and a large native house in a court-yard 
on our left. At the gate of this was a native chief, 
with attendants, who, the instant we passed, mounted 
and followed us, and we found he was the Widono 
of the district to whose care we had been consigned. 

Just beyond this we turned to the left, leaving the 
high road for a grassy lane, leading towards a wood. 
At each side as we turned off was a large stone 
covered with an inscription, probably in the old 
Javanese or Kawi character. In less than half a 
mile from the main road we reached the. ruins of 
Singha sari. These, of course, it 1s impossible for 
me to describe after merely one hasty visit, nor have 
I the knowledge of Hindoo mythology which would 
be necessary to understand them, or make them 
intelligible to the reader. They stand scattered at 
the edge of a wood, the recesses of which may con- 
ceal others. There were six principal erections of 
hewn stone, besides the base of a circular tower, 
and many large and small figures and fragments of 
sculpture and statuary scattered about. ‘Three of 
these buildings were temples of similar form to those 
of Djago and Kedal, but less elaborately orna- 
mented. They were quadrangular, rising by suc- 
cessive stages to a shrine at top, in which were 
statues of a large size, but more or less defaced. 
The base of the largest of these buildings measured 


COLOSSAL STATUES. 105 


93 feet by 36. None of them had friezes, but there 
were carved ornamental markings along the sides, 
and many niches and pedestals for statues, and some 
alto-relievo figures. 

Two of the other buildings we called tombs, but 
very likely were quite incorrect in doing so. They 
were similar to the temples in style, but much 
smaller, square at the base, rapidly diminishing in 
stories upwards, and then bulging out again in over- 
hanging steps or ledges. One of them was crowned 
with the base of a ruined circular erection, perhaps 
a dome, or cupola. This the Widono called Chun- 
koop Wyang,* the others Chunkoop Putri. The 
sixth building we could not make out at the time, 
as it consisted merely of two solid blocks of half- 
ruined masonry; I believe, however, it was part of 
a gateway, probably that of the enclosure in which 
the temples stood.t On each side of it was a 
gigantic figure, one male, the other female, of very 
corpulent proportions and fierce aspect, scantily 
clothed, and each wreathed round by a huge serpent ; 
they knelt on one knee, with the other pressed 
against the breast and body, leaning by one hand on 
a great club with a square head, much carved. The 
male figure had the right hand raised and turned 
outwards with two or three fingers erect, as if to 


* Perhaps Biyang. Biyang and Putri, in the ceremonial Ja- 
vanese, mean mother and child. 
See Crawfurd’s description of the ruins of Brambanan, 
vol. 2, page 196. 


106 DIMENSIONS OF STATUE. 


forbid the approach of an intruder. They had eacha 
kind of crown on the head, the eyeballs protruded as 
if inanger, the brow was corrugated, and a large tusk 
proceeded downwards from each side of the mouth. 
The dimensions of the male figure were as follow :— 


Height from the ground to the top of the head »- L2 feet: 
Circumference round the waist, including the knee, 

which was pressed against it P « nae 
Length of the face : pe she 3 
Ditto the nose : 24 a 
Width across the back of the shoulders ee 
Width of the left hand across the knuckles a, Oe 
Length of the right hand, which was raised, from the 

wrist to tip of middle finger : . 23 


They were each cut out of one solid block of 
stone, hard but rather brittle, a close-grained grey 
porphyritic trachyte. They were carefully and ad- 
mirably executed, smoothly and clearly cut, and the 
folds of the skin well represented. The Widono 
called them Rajah Puteh, or Chunkoop Rajah Pu- 
teh. On the grass round about, rudely arranged, 
apparently as they had been discovered, were many 
fragments of sculpture and statuary, more or less 
perfectly preserved, but all admirably executed. 
There was a beautiful Brahmin bull lying down, 
about four feet long ; human figures with elephants’ 
heads; a fragment of a chariot drawn by several 
horses abreast, admirably sculptured; and many 
figures of Hindoo deities, with three or four heads 
and several pairs of arms. ‘They seemed all to be 
cut from nearly the same kind of stone as that before 


BEAUTY OF ARCHITECTURE. 107 


mentioned, and all bore the impress of the same 
style of art, and that one of no mean order. There 
were none of the excessively outré and indecent 
representations which are, I believe, frequent in the 
temples of India, and both the buildings and the 
sculpture bore the impress of great refinement of 
taste in the design, and much skill and carefulness 
in the execution. I must plead guilty to the most 
profound ignorance in architecture and sculpture 
generally, and to that of the Hindoos especially, 
but to my eye these ruined temples and statues were 
singularly beautiful and interesting, and they are 
worthy, I think, of far more study and attention 
than has hitherto been bestowed upon them. In the 
woods around [ found, as at Kedal, piles of old bricks 
of a much larger size, and better material than the 
Javanese can now produce. ‘These were the ruins 
either of the houses of the people, or of the palaces 
of their kings. 

As I stood on the summit of one of these ruined 
structures, and cast my eye over the scene around, 
I could not but feel deeply interested in the mysteri- 
ous history of the past and forgotten people who had 
erected them. The site was a most noble one. It 
was in the north-west corner of the undulating plain 
or broad valley of Malang, slightly raised above, and 
overlooking the whole of it. On the right hand, to- 
wards the south-west was the picturesque group of the 
Kawi, from which a grassy but broken and serrated 
ridge stretched northwards to the grand mountain 


108 PLAIN OF MALANG. 


mass of the Arjuno, immediately behind us, with 
its peaked summit and shaggy sides, occupying all 
the north-western quarter of the horizon. In the 
north was a low gap, affording space for the road 
and a band of cultivated ground, and giving access 
to the northern coast and its towns and harbours. 
Then rose the ridge of the Teng’ger, gradually 
struggling up in bristling peaks and ridges towards 
the east, till it reached its greatest elevation in the 
large crags and buttresses of the Bromo and the Ider- 
Ider, from which it curved towards the south-east, 
where it was crowned with the simple and perfect 
cone of the Semiru, equally regular and symmetrical 
in all its aspects. The chord of this splendid amphi- 
theatre, or the distance between Semiru and the 
Kawi, was nearly forty miles, formed of low, undu- 
lating ridges, closing the view on the south. The 
aspect of this great valley was as rich and abounding 
in beauty, as we knew it was fertile and healthy, 
and pleasant in reality; while even the wildest and 
ruggedest of the mountains were clothed with forests 
in magnificent profusion, all save the two cones of 
the Semiru and Arjuno, where the destructive force 
of volcanic power still lingered, though harm- 
lessly, and so far exhausted and pent up as only to 
add variety of interest to the whole. <A populous 
tribe of men inhabited the plain, and cultivated its 
surface ; but their rude houses were scarcely visible 
here and there among its groves, and their open 
fields only varied its natural beauties, without de- 


ANCIENT KINGDOM. 109 


facing them. When we turned from these to the 
silent and ruined structures around us, a new 
interest was called up. The imagination became 
busy in restoring their fallen glories, in picturing 
large cities, adorned with temples and palaces, seated 
on the plain, and in recalling the departed power, 
wealth and state of the native kingdom that once 
flourished in a land so noble, so beautiful, and so 
well adapted for its growth and its security. 

That such a kingdom once existed is evident, 
not only from the detached ruins in so many sepa- 
rate parts of the valley, and the piles of brick in 
the forests, but from the ancient brick causeways 
still used as the principal roads of the country, and 
the ruins of large brick walls that are said to 
stretch from the southern side of Mount Kawi to 
the sea, fortifying the valley of Kediri, and thus 
defending the principal access to the plains of Ma- 
lang from the west. Any one of these structures 
is far beyond the powers of the present inhabitants, 
if left to themselves, and bespeaks a people among 
whom civilization and the arts had made no mean 
progress, and had had no short or temporary ex- 
istence. Whatever may have been the history of 
the people, it is entirely unknown, and scarcely 
mentioned even by tradition. A few dates, indeed, 
have been discovered on ruins in other parts of the 
island, which, from their style and character, seem 
to have been contemporaneous with these, ranging 
from the year 1195 a.p. to a.p. 1296; and a few 


110 SPECULATIONS. 


names of kingdoms and princes linger in the old 
Javanese histories or romances, but hardly a single 
authentic fact can be discovered.* ‘The latest date 
that can be assigned to these ruins is in the time 
of our first Edwards ;—making allowance for the 
difference of climate and of race, was the civiliza- 
tion of England at that time more advanced than 
that of Java? Was even the absolute civiliza- 
tion, without any allowance, or the intellectual ad- 
vancement much greater in the one people than 
the other? Even supposing that there was only an 
approach to equality, how much of the subsequent 
difference in their fortunes and condition is to be 
attributed to innate difference in moral and intel- 
lectual capabilities; how much to external influences, 
to fortuitous or unavoidable circumstances? Many 
such questions and speculations as these naturally 
arose in the mind while contemplating these ruins, 
even while the senses were steeped in the delight of 


* See Crawfurd’s History of the Indian Archipelago, vol. 2nd, 
book 6th and 7th. From his account, as also from that of Sir Stam- 
ford Raffles’ in his History of Java, it appears that the style of the 
Hindoo temples in Java is peculiar, and different in some respects 
from those now existing in India, and that the religion of those 
that built them must have been a modification of the Hindooism 
prevailing in that country. Mr. Crawfurd thinks the Hindoo- 
ism of Java was ‘a reformation of the bloody and indecent 
worship of Siwa, brought about by sages or philosophers, by 
persons, in short, of more kindly affections than the rest of their 
countrymen, and perhaps to keep pace with some start in civiliza- 
tion in the country where it had its origin.” 


NUMBER OF RUINS IN JAVA. TtI 


gazing on the lovely and majestic scenery in the 
midst of which they were set, and endeavouring to 
imprint on the memory all the features and beauties 
of the picture ; and many such occur to the imagina- 
tion afterwards when this picture is recalled, but 
as, with our present amount of knowledge, they 
must remain mere speculation, I forbear to pursue 
them. Java is strewed with similar remains, and 
some of much greater extent and magnificence, from 
one end of the island to the other, as may be seen 
in Raffles’ and Crawfurd’s books, to which I must 
refer the reader; merely observing that the outline 
sketches in the illustrations of those works, while 
they convey an idea of their forms and subjects, 
sufficient for our information on those points, by no 
means do full justice to the artistic beauties of the 
ruins and sculpture, and hardly attempt to pourtray 
those of the surrounding scenery. 

Our Widono here,.as at Kedal and Djago, informed 
us that the natives still had a kind of superstitious 
feeling for these remnants of the religion of their 
ancestors, and the Kling pedlars from India paid 
them unbounded reverence. 

The Widono was a stout, middle-aged man, of a 
firm and sensible cast of countenance: he took much 
interest in our proceedings, begged to be allowed 
to copy our measurements, and appeared anxious to 
give us information, which we regretted our imper- 
fect attempts at communication could only partially 
elicit. His manners, still very respectful, were 


112 GOOD DISPOSITION OF JAVANESE. 


more easy and well bred than those of our worthy 
old Widono of Pakis, and he seemed more accus- 
tomed to mingle in European society. He was, 
however, much amused with my pocket lens, tele- 
scope, and compass, which, if not absolute novelties, 
seemed to be rare objects to him, and as we sat at 
breakfast, he was continually using them, and asked 
permission to shew them to his attendants. This 
breakfast, the luxury of which had now ceased to 
excite our surprise, was spread in a pandopo, occu- 
pying, as usual, the exact spot where, without being 
itself obtrusively conspicuous, we could best sit and 
contemplate the principal objects about us at our 
leisure, affording another proof of the natural good 
taste of the Javanese. They are indeed a most 
amiable people: so good-tempered and obliging, 
and so eager to be of use, and always so ready to 
enter into our pursuits, whatever they might be, 
that we began to feel quite attached to them. Nor 
are they by any means devoid of fun and humour, 
when they think its exhibition will be allowed. 
Soon after we set off to return. I asked a poor 
man by the way-side, for some fire, meaning to light 
my cigar, but when he returned with a huge blazing 
log, as much as he could carry with both hands, a 
perfect roar of laughter rose from all our attendants, 
and abundance of jokes seemed to be cracking on 
all sides at his simplicity: one man, I think, asked 
him if he supposed I wanted to roast my horse. 

On regaining the high road we dismounted and 


a 


ROAD SIDE MARKET. 11s 


went to look at the market, which was a very large 
one, occupying an enclosure of about one acre of 
ground. There were a few Chinese and some 
Klings, but the majority were Javanese, and these 
principally women, both buyers and sellers. The 
Klings (Kalingas or Talingas) come from the coast 
of Coromandel, and trade through the Archipelago 
dealing chiefly in jewellery and cutlery. The 
Chinese in this market seemed to deal principally 
in drapery. There were rows of stalls in which 
were exposed printed calicoes from Manchester, 
strong blue calico cloth from Madura, broad cloths, 
and other articles of clothing ; in another row were 
neatly made boxes and baskets of different materials. 
There was also crockery-ware, both English and 
Chinese, and the ruder productions of the country. 
A row was devoted entirely tp drugs, spices, and 
medicines ; another to fruits and vegetables, salt- 
fish and eatables of all kinds, trassi, and other 
native dainties; and another to jewellery, cutlery, 
and nicknacks, and for various other matters of all 
descriptions. We inquired of a Kling the price of 
two English razors in a case, for which he asked 
five dollars. In another corner was a space for the 
sale of horses, and also, I believe, for bullocks, 
waggons and agricultural implements. In short, 
it appeared that the whole of the wants of the 
native population of all ranks and both sexes might 
have been supplied here. 

These markets are held, I believe, every five days 

VOL. II. I 


114 HOUSE OF ASSISTANT-RESIDENT. 


in the same place, one being held also on each of 
the other days in some neighbouring market-place 
within a particular district, the whole recurring in 
regular order in a cycle of five days, according to 
an ancient native custom. In a. populous district 
the market-places are about seven miles distant from 
each other, often in uninhabited places, at spots 
conveniently accessible from the neighbouring towns 
and villages. ‘They are now regulated by the Dutch 
Government, and tolls are paid which are generally 
farmed by Chinese. 

When we had satisfied our curiosity we returned 
to the neighbouring wissel-post, where we found Mr, 
Dickelman’s carriage waiting us, he having been so 
kind as to send it from Malang. By this means we 
escaped a wetting, as the usual afternoon rain set in 
before we reached our hotel. In the evening, when 
it had cleared off, we went to wait on him at his 
own house. This was on the south side of the 
central square, or green, of the town, surrounded 
by a garden and pleasure grounds. He introduced 
us to his wife and family, and we were surprised at 
the healthy and animated appearance of his chil- 
dren; they had fresh rosy complexions, very diffe- 
rent from the pallid faces of children usually seen 
in tropical climates. 

As the conversation fell on the ruins we had 
visited in the morning, he took us into his grounds 
and shewed us a great variety of statues, and figures 
on slabs in alto-relievo, and stones covered with 


COLLECTION OF ANTIQUITIES. 115 


inscriptions, that he had collected from the neigh- 
bouring country. Many of these were beautifully 
executed, and some in excellent preservation, having 
been recently dug out of the soil. ‘They were vari- 
ous in kind, but seemed mostly representations of 
different Hindoo deities. The Dutch Government 
do not allow any of these antiquities to be removed 
from the country. He also shewed us some copies, 
or models, of the principal figures at Singha sari, 
on a small scale, cut by a native artist out of a soft 
kind of steatite or soapstone. ‘These were very 
fairly done, being pretty accurate copies of the 
originals, with the relative proportions well pre- 
served. The artist was a young Javanese resident 
in Malang. I could not make out whether the 
steatite existed in situ in the neighbourhood or as 
rolled blocks in the brooks. I had observed one or 
two pieces of old sculpture at Singha sari cut from a 
somewhat similar stone, and on shewing them to the 
Widono he assured me that no stone like it was to 
be found in the country around. 

Mr. Dickelman also exhibited to us samples of 
different kinds of coffee, some of which had been 
husked or shelled by mills recently introduced, and 
was worth, he said, a florin a picul more than that 
done by hand. He gave us a box of Malang cigars, 
too, as a sample of some he had had made for his 
own use, and kept by him for some years. They 
were greatly superior to those ordinarily to be pro- 
cured, and were really very fair cigars, shewing how 

12 


116 - RIDE TO BATU. 


much the manufacture might be improved by care, 
and proper methods of making and storing. 

Nov. 23.—Hill being too unwell to ride on horse- 
back was obliged to be carried on a litter made of a 
bamboo frame and covered with an archedroof of atop 
mats, suspended from the shoulders of four men. 
We proceeded to Batu, about twelve miles north- 
westof Malang. ‘The first part of the road was low, 
wet, and muddy, through a completely cultivated 
country; but we then began to rise a little onto 
more undulating ground, where the cultivated fields 
were interspersed with brakes and pieces of forest. 
There was an abundance of water, both in natural 
brooks and in the artificial rills by which the fields 
were irrigated. About half way we came to a 
wissel-post, where there were only one or two fresh 
horses waiting us. There was said to be a great 
sickness at present among the horses, and they were 
difficult to be procured. We accordingly rode 
gently on, and reached Batu about eleven o’clock. 
This is a small but very pleasantly situated place 
at the foot of the ridge which connects the Kawi 
and Arjuno mountains. It is environed by hills on 
every side except the east, but is much less em- 
bosomed in woods than is usually the case. 

Most of the slopes, except those of Kawi just be- 
hind us, were covered with green fields, or with 
long waving alang alang, a few scattered thickets of 
wood marking the course of the brooks in the hol- 
lows. The passangerang was comfortable, with an 


PASSANGERANG OF BATU. 117 


excellent pandopo in front, facing the Arjuno, which 
rose due north of us at a few miles distance. They 
said we could easily ascend the Arjuno in two days 
from Batu, as there was a house more than half way 
up, which we could ride to in one day. For this, 
however, we had not time, more especially as it 
would require arrangements and preparations which 
we had not made. ‘The neighbourhood of Batu is 
rather rocky, and the roads stony, whence its name ; 
Batu being both Malay and Javanese for “stone.” 
The view from our pandopo was very beautiful till 
noon, when the mountains began rapidly to accumu- 
late dark clouds round their shoulders, which pre- 
sently rolling down their sides, sent forth peal after 
peal of rattling thunder that echoed grandly from 
hill to hill, and then settlmg down upon the valley, 
shrouded everything from sight in a deluge of thick 
heavy rain till near sunset, when it as rapidly cleared 
off, and soon after dark not a cloud was to be seen. 
These afternoon showers not only refreshed the 
air by moisture, but were accompanied by a consi- 
derable fall of temperature. ‘To-day, for instance, 
on our arrival at Batu, at 11 a.m. the thermometer 
stood at 80° Fahrenheit in the shade, at 4 p.m. it 
had fallen to 71°, and at 9 p.m. to 68°, which felt 
quite chilly. At 6 the next morning it was only 
65°. The height of Batu above the sea is 2,778 
feet by my observations of the barometer. Even at 
Malang and Pakis, at least 1000 feet lower, the 
thermometer at sunrise was not above 67°. It is, I 


118 HOT WELLS OF BATU. | 


have no doubt, to the comparative coolness of their 
nights that these mountain plains owe their salu- 
brity. As far as my experience goes, it matters little 
to what heat the human frame is exposed during 
the day if it be refreshed by coolness at night. 
Nov. 24.—At a quarter to seven o’clock we set 
out on horseback up the valley towards the ridge of 
grassy hills on the west of us. After riding about 
two miles we turned off to the left to visit a hot 
spring. This was in a small hollow valley, the 
scenery of which reminded me very much of parts 
of North Wales; green sharp-topped hills rose all 
round it, bare of trees except a scattered clump 
here and there, and a few cottages, looking like 
small farmsteads, were dispersed about. Round 
the springs were a few half-ruined buildings of 
hewn stone, evidently ancient; one of them had 
been a small shrine or temple, and there were pave- 
ments looking like the floors of others which had 
disappeared. The springs were conducted into 
baths of masonry, with stone steps of ancient and 
excellent workmanship, but they were now covered 
with bamboo houses. A venerable looking old man, 
with a white beard (a thing very uncommon among 
the Javanese), had charge of them, being probably a 
priest. The temperature of the springs was 108° 
Fahrenheit. ‘Their taste was strongly saline, not 
unlike Epsom salts. They were situated on a little 
mound, which seemed to be composed of travertine, 
that was still forming on the outer slope, and en- 


RIDE DOWN TO ANTANG. 119 . 


closing sticks and other matters. From this place 
we returned to the road, and then rode up to the top 
of the ridge, where we were met by the Widono of 
Baki, and the Widono of Batu took leave of us. He 
had informed us that violent east winds sometimes 
blew up the valley of Batu, blowing down even houses. 
This was no doubt the reason of the scantiness of 
wood on that side the ridge, as on the other or west 
side, the hills were covered with the usual abundance 
of forests. 

We now rode down the slopes of these hills into 
a narrow valley, with sharp-peaked ridges on each 
side of us, till we arrived at Baki, where we met the 
Widono of Antang, with fresh horses, and found 
the usual refreshment of tea, cakes, and fruit spread 
in a pleasant pandopo. We continued to descend 
down a lovely glen, with a broad foaming brook 
leaping from ledge to ledge, and about half way 
down had a view of a fine cascade that fell over the 
rocks on our left, into the valley, from a height of 
about forty feet. Lower down, the glen expanded, 
and its sides and lower slopes were covered with 
rice-fields. These were formed into many narrow 
terraces, the water being confined by small, curved, 
and scalloped-shaped dykes, or ridges, looking like 
miniature fortifications. The steeper heights above 
them were covered with fine wood, among which 
the road wound for some miles nearly at a level, and 
forming a beautiful stripe of turf, as close and soft 
as that of a bowling-green. I endeavoured to enter 


120 SITUATION OF ANTANG. 


into conversation with the Widono, who was a 
slightly-built, active, and intelligent man, mounted 
on a very pretty grey pony. Wishing to see its 
paces, I challenged him to a race, but found he had 
some hesitation in passing me, till 1 encouraged him 
to do so, when he went by like a shot, but soon 
pulled up, and seemed much gratified at my praise 
of his horse. On my asking him how much he 
would sell it for, he replied, he would let me have 
the horse for 300 rupees silver (about 20/. sterling); 
but he could not part with the saddle (evidently an 
English one), as it had been given to him by a par- 
ticular friend of his, an English gentleman, who 
had had a coffee plantation near Antang, but whose 
name I forget. 

About eleven o’clock we entered another broader 
valley, and saw the town of Antang below us, in a 
very beautiful and picturesque situation, on a raised 
flat at the head of the valley, which opened towards 
the south, between Mount Kawi and Mount Klut. 
A deep-banked brook issued from each side of the 
town, and lower down were very extensive rice-fields, 
with the green rice growing among shallow water. 
The meadows about the brooks and their steep 
sides were covered with beautiful turf of a most 
brilliant green, groves of cocoa-nuts surrounded the 
town, while the hills on each side, though not very 
lofty, were most picturesquely broken into peaks 
and ridges, and precipitous slopes, covered with dark 
wood. 


ANCIENT INSCRIPTIONS. 121 


Antang cannot be correctly placed in Sir S. 
Rafiles’s map of Java, as Mount Klut bears from it 
S.W. instead of N.W., as it is there made to do. 
It seemed to me one of the most delightful spots we 
had yet seen, and the Widono seemed much attached 
to it, saying he had lived there twenty years, and 
hoped never to leave it. We reached the passan- 
gerang, which was beautifully placed on the brow 
of a green slope, about half-past eleven, and were 
saluted as we entered by the clang of a gamelang, 
and the harsh voices of some dancing girls, who 
were stationed in the court-yard to welcome us. 
These had come to Antang, to be present at the 
market, which was to be held to-morrow. Several 
antiquities were scattered under the trees on the 
green near the pandopo, having been collected in 
the neighbourhood. One of these was a stone, 
exactly the size and shape of the head-stones in our 
grave-yards, but about three times as thick. This 
was covered on both sides and along the edges with 
an inscription in the old Javanese or Kawi character. 
The letters, which are of an exceedingly neat and 
elegant form, were about a quarter of an inch in 
height, deeply and sharply cut, perfectly clear, and 
well preserved.* The great house, or passangerang, 
had two large double-bedded sleeping rooms, well 


* The modern Javanese alphabet is given in Crawfurd, in his 
2nd vol., and it greatly resembled this in its general character. 
Specimens, both of the ancient and modern alphabets, are given 
also in Sir S. Raffles’s History of Java. 


122 TRY TO SHOOT A DEER. 


furnished. ‘There are usually accommodations for 
four people in all these places, but I believe there 
would be no difficulty if the party consisted of more, 
as the native chief could receive one or two into his 
own house. Just at nightfall, when the rain had 
ceased, we heard several deer belling on each side 
of us, the neighbourhood being said to abound in 
game. I got 2,066 feet for the height of Antang 
above the sea. 

Nov. 25.—Captain Blackwood and I were out 
before daylight with our guns to try and_ shoot 
a kedang; there was so much delay, however, on 
the part of our guides, that we did not reach the 
ground till too late, as the deer seek the recesses 
of the woods as soon as it becomes broad daylight. 
We had a very pleasant ramble among some coffee- 
plantations, and through some open green glades 
on the hill sides, saw an abundance of peacocks, ~ 
which we did not succeed in getting near, and 
plenty of pigs, of which we each shot one, and 
returned to the passangerang at seven o’clock. Our 
route had been originally chalked out to pass 
through Kediri, but partly on account of Hill’s 
sickness, and partly that Captain Blackwood was 
anxious to return to the ship, we determined now 
to omit that, and make as straight a course as pos- 
sible for Sourabaya. 

We set off at eight o’clock, and I found a very 
handsome and excellent bay pony, with my saddle 
on it, which the Widono, flattered by my praises of 


GET AN EXCELLENT PONY. 123 


his stud yesterday, had brought on purpose for me. 
He seemed to take great pride in his horses, some 
of which he had procured from Bima. 

We passed across the green or central square of 
Antang, on one side of which was the market-place, 
now crowded with people, and then rode over a 
pretty grassy plain, bounded by woody hills, which 
continued for about two miles. This formed a 
dividing ridge between brooks flowing on one side 
to the south, on the other to the north, and we 
shortly entered a narrow winding glen, descending 
in the latter direction. The fire and spirit of my 
excellent little horse soon took me on a-head of the 
party, and after I had, with some difficulty, per- 
suaded the two spearmen in advance not to attend 
to my motions, but let me go on, I rode for several 
miles down this glen alone. It is in that way, 
indeed, that much of this country ought to be tra- 
versed, in order to acquire a full perception and a 
lasting memory of its beauties. Surrounded by 
scenery so glorious, all human companionship is 
' felt to be superfluous and intrusive. This glen was 
one of those so frequent in all these mountains, 
radiating from the more lofty and central masses of 
the hills, and divided from each other by narrow 
and precipitous ridges. 

If the country were stripped of its vegetation, and 
left mere bare earth and rock, its very shape and 
outline would be striking and beautiful, so nume- 
rous and varied are the forms of its peaks and crags, 


124 _ BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 


and crested slopes, so many are the precipices, and 
ravines, and glens, each vocal with its brawling 
brook or flashing waterfall. All these features are 
imposing for their size and loftiness, and yet so 
delicately executed, so sharply chiselled or modelled 
as it were out of the earth, as at the same time to 
affect the mind with the solemnity of grandeur and 
the delight of beauty. But when these mountain 
steeps are clothed with endless woods of magnifi- 
cent forest-trees having lofty stems and widely- 
branching heads, and every glen is crowded with 
stately palms, drooping and elegant tree-ferns, 
arching clusters of feathery bamboos, delicately- 
stemmed acacias, and broad-leaved plantains and 
bananas, all rising from piles and heaps of plants 
of lesser growth, ferns and creepers and succulent 
plants with huge round-lobed or variously-shaped 
leaves; and when among these luxuriant woods, by 
the side of these falling waters, wind paths and 
alleys carpeted with short green turf, turning from 
dell to dell as if searching for the loveliest spots, 
with a fresh cool breeze rustling the leaves above, 
and a deep blue sky shining over all, against which, 
here and there, some tall grassy peak starts up 
above the loftiest heights of wood, I do not believe 
that more exquisite scenery ever rose before 
the imagination, even of a poet in his youthful 
dreams. ‘The eye of the gazer becomes satiated 
with every form of earthly loveliness, and to me at 
least the valleys among these mountains of Java 


+" “= = ele... 
4 . 
a 
t < 


PROCEED ROUND THE ARJUNO. 125 


have ever since been the very type of beauty, the 
remembrance of which will, I hope, dwell with me 
as long as I exist. 

At about eight miles from Antang we turned off 
to the right through a kind of court-yard, and 
crossed the bed of the brook, and then by a narrow 
winding path climbed up the right bank of the 
glen to a small village called Dodo, where we 
found breakfast prepared for us, but could get no 
change of horses. 

Here the Widono of Antang took leave of us, with 
many thanks on our part and good wishes on his, 
and we proceeded by a narrow and rather devious 
path, up hill and down dale, apparently coasting 
along the flanks of the mountains. We crossed 
many brooks hurrying down towards the plains, 
passed through a succession of lofty, untouched 
forests, groves of bamboo, large coffee-plantations 
shaded by tall trees, and open patches of cultivation 
here and there, till we came out on some broad 
slopes of alang alang. Climbing up the side of one 
of these by a steep and slippery path, we found a 
small pandopo on the top, built, apparently, as a 
resting-place for the traveller, and that he might 
have a shelter from the sun while he sat on this 
open brow to enjoy the fresh air and the noble pros- 
pect before him. We found we had been gradually 
working round the Arjuno, and were now on one 
of the lower ridges that project from its western 


base. Ridge rising over ridge, immediately behind 


126 VIEW OF DISTANT MOUNTAINS. 


us, precluded all view towards the east, but due 
west of us, at a distance of nearly fifty miles, rose 

Mount Wilis, and forty miles beyond that, again, in 
the blue distant horizon, was Mount Lawu. Mount 
Wilis was beautifully distinct, its sides just dappled 
with a few white clouds floating above them. Both 
were conical-shaped masses, though without any 
regular summit cone, and the surrounding country 
swelled gently up to them with an equal slope on all 
sides. Between us and Mount Wilis lay the broad 
valley of the Kediri, expanding towards the north 
into the great plain of Sourabaya, over which we 
could just see some low eminences rising at a great 
distance in the north-west. By far the greater part of 
the country below us seemed to be untouched forest, 
the open cultivated parts shewing like mere patches 
on its surface. A good part of this apparent forest, 
however, contained coffee plantations, and many 
plots of cultivated ground were hidden among it; 
but then, on the other hand, some of the green open 
spaces were not cultivated, but merely covered with 
the long coarse grass called alang alang, which is 
used, I believe, solely for thatching. 

From this spot we proceeded over the same kind 
of country as before, up and down steep and slippery 
ascents and descents, the surface of the road being 
generally an unctuous clay, passing frequently be- 
tween large coffee plantations, till we arrived at a 
small village called Wonosalam, where we expected 
to get relays of horses, and coolies. We found 


"wu ee ae eo , 
: 


STOP AT WONOSALAM. 127 


neither, however, and moreover it ultimately turned 
out that neither could be got that day. They said 
the horses were all sick and many of them dead, 
and the men of the village nearly all absent. It 
appeared we had acted unwisely in suddenly chang- 
ing our route and desertiag the regular road, where 
all had been previously prepared for us, for a small 
cross road, where they had only just received notice 
of our approach before we arrived. 

Finding that we could not get on, we made our- 
selves as comfortable as we could where we were, 
and although our quarters were not very spacious, 
the people did all they could for us, and gave us 
really a very good dinner, though without the ac- 
companiment of knives and forks or spoons. The 
kampong was small, containing not more than a 
dozen houses, the principal of which had a kind of 
verandah or portico in front, in which we sat, and 
one tolerably sized room without windows, in which 
they made up our beds, the family retiring to two 
other dark rooms behind it. A small rill of clear 
water traversed the kampong, which was surrounded 
by a bamboo fence with a wooden gateway. Some 
new and more spacious houses were in course of 
erection on an open space about 300 yards off, on 
the brow of a declivity, the end of a kind of pro- 
montory overlooking the valley of the Kediri. Here, 
under a half-finished pandopo, we passed the heat 
of the day, admiring the noble views which it com- 
manded. There was no rain this afternoon, though 
we heard thunder, which seemed to be confined to 


& 
128 DESCEND TO THE PLAINS. 


the south side of the mountains. When the sun 
got low, Captain Blackwood and I took our guns 
and walked down some steeply sloping coffee-planta- 
tions, and then across a slope of alang alang, to 
some poorly cultivated fields, surrounded with wood, 
but we saw no game. The country, however, was very 
pleasant, the soil apparently rich and deep, although 
of such rapid declivity, and well watered with brooks. 

I made the height of Wonosalam above the sea 1781 
feet. The name of the headman of the place was 
Sowondoo, that of his title or office Loora. | 

Nov. 26.—Some fresh horses and coolies having 
arrived last night, we set off this morning at six 
o’clock. I regretted parting with the spirited little 
horse belonging to the Widono of Antang, when I 
looked at the miserable-looking little rat of an ani- 
mal which was intended for me this morning, but 
was agreeably surprised to find him greatly superior 
to his appearance, and really wondered at the way 
he carried me through heavy places, and at his speed 
and strength. ‘The first part of the way was a 
similar rolling country to that we traversed yester- 
day, passing through a succession of coffee-planta- 
tions, below which we came down to a magnificent 
teak forest, where the slopes were more gentle, but 
the path very narrow, and frequently winding. In 
the lower part of this forest we continually passed 
mounds of ancient bricks, partially overgrown with 
turf, the ruins perhaps of the outskirts of the ancient 
city of Majopahit, or of some neighbouring town. 
About nine o’clock we emerged from the recesses of 


REACH MAJOAGO. 129 


this forest onto an open plain, with rice-fields in 
stubble, galloping across which we came out onto a 
wide and well beaten road, and turning to the left 
entered the town of Majoago. 

This seemed a very extensive place, the central 
square being surrounded by large brick houses, 
standing in pleasure-grounds. We found the W1- 
dono was absent when our messenger arrived, but 
that he had been sent for, and in the meantime a 
breakfast was being prepared for us. There seemed, 
however, to be great difficulty in procuring horses, 
150 having died, as they assured us, within the last 
few days, and most of the others being sick. It ap- 
pears that the climate of Java is not favourable to 
the horse, and that yearly, at particular seasons, 
there is a great mortality and sickness among them, 
more especially in the low country and the towns of 
the coast. 

When my barometer arrived, I found the height 
of Majoago above the sea by its indication to be 
116 feet, and I was glad afterwards to be informed 
by a Dutch engineer officer, that this was very 
nearly its real height, as determined by levelling 
along the banks of the Kediri. Barometrical mea- 
surements, indeed, so near the equator, admit of 
much greater certainty and precision than when 
made out of the tropics. This is owing to the very 
slight fluctuations exhibited by the column of mer- 
cury at any one spot in tropical regions, so that it 
becomes useless as a weather glass. 

VOL. II. K 


130 RUINS OF MAJOPAHIT. 


About two o’clock, we contrived to get mounted 
again, though very indifferently, and proceeded to 
Majokerto, or Japan. The country was very flat, 
almost wholly under cultivation, principally occupied 
by rice-fields, but with some small patches of indigo. 
It looked, however, dry and burnt up, as well 
as bare and dreary after the splendid country among 
the mountains. We frequently passed piles of old 
bricks, and at one place on the right-hand side of the 
road, was an alley in a wood, leading to a fine ruin 
of brick, part of a lofty gateway apparently. This 
was a fragment of the very extensive brick ruins of 
the ancient city of Majopahit, which are strewed 
over a space hereabouts of three miles in diameter. 
This city was the capital of the last of the Hindoo 
empires of the island, and was destroyed in the year 
of Java 1400 (a.p. 1478), by the party who had 
been converted to Mahomedanism, which, from that 
time, became the religion of the whole island. At 
four o’clock, we entered Majokerto, which seemed 
to be a very extensive place, but of which we only 
got a very transient glance, as we cantered through 
it to the house of M. Blankenharden, a Dutch gen- 
tleman, to whom we had been recommended, and 
who received us with the greatest kindness and hos- 
pitality. His house was not far from the right bank 
of the Kediri, and near it was a large sugar estab- 
lishment belonging to him. The Kediri is here con- 
fined by embankments, which rise several feet above 
the general level of the country. This is about the. 


HALT AT MAJOKERTO. 13k 


head of its delta, as near Majokerto it begins to 
divide into several branches, the two principal of 
which run, one to Sourabaya, the other to Porong, 
each about thirty miles distant from Majokerto, in 
a straight line. 

Mr. Boyd, an English gentleman, whom we met 
here, informed us that there were old traditions 
among the Javanese that Majokerto had once been 
a seaport town, and that battles had been fought 
here between the inhabitants and pirates, who were 
said to be Chinese. While, however, it is certain 
that the sea once flowed at this spot, as is shewn by 
beds of marine shells found in the neighbourhood, 
it is not probable that this ever was the case since 
man inhabited the country, and that the tradition 
arose from its being obvious even to the natives that 
such must once have been the case. It is probable 
that the visits of some race of Chinese to this coun- 
try took place at very early periods, for we were 
informed there were respectable Chinese families in 
Sourabaya, whose records were continuous for more 
than 300 years, and gave evidence of their being 
settled there for that time at least. 

We were joined at dinner by a young Dutch 
engineer who was superintending some large works 
on the Kediri close by, and spent a very pleasant 
evening. In the course of conversation it was men- 
tioned that a Dutch clergyman comes once a year 
from Sourabaya to Majokerto to perform service, 
and marry and baptize those who may require it, 

x. 2 


132 RETURN TO SOURABAYA. 


and that this year there was an assemblage of 
thirty-five or thirty-six Christians. It did not ap- 
pear that there was a single native included under 
this denomination. 

Nov. 27.—We set off in a carriage at seven 
o'clock this morning for Sourabaya, which we 
reached at eleven o’clock. About two miles from 
Majokerto we halted to examine the new works on 
the Kediri, by which it is intended to bring under 
control the variations in the volume of its waters. 
A double system of locks had been constructed, 
built of bricks and faced with massy blocks of 
greenstone, both materials being brought from 
Europe. The locks were wide and deep, and the 
gates and sluices of great size and strength. The 
work was not much more than half completed, and 
I did not quite understand the plan of it ; its object, 
however, is both to facilitate the irrigation of the 
delta, and to render more certain and regular the 
navigation of the Kali mas, or golden river, the 
branch which runs hence to Sourabaya. The cost 
of the work must be very great, and its style and 
execution are very creditable to the Dutch Govern- 
ment. 

The plain of Sourabaya, which had interested and 
pleased us so much on setting out now seemed ex- 
cessively dull, tiresome, and monotonous, and the 
climate heavy and oppressive, accustomed as we had 
been for the last fortnight to the fresh air and glo- 
rious scenery of the mountains. 


CHAPTER V. 


THE CITADEL AND DEFENCES OF SOURABAYA--VISIT GRESIK 
AND SOME ANCIENT TOMBS-—-ANIMAL OF A BIVALVE SHELL 
CHANGED INTO A BIRD—VISIT TO THE SULTAN OF BAN- 
KALANG—TIGER FIGHT—DRAMATIC REPRESENTATION— 
FEVER AND ITS EFFECTS—GONUNG SARI—ISLANDS OF RE- 
CENT LIMESTONE—FORMATION OF THE DELTA OF THE 
KEDIRI—CUSTOMS COMMON TO THE JAVANESE AND THE 
SOUTH-SEA ISLANDERS. 


THE Dutch military officers seemed to have no 
objection to our visiting the citadel of Sourabaya in 
their company, and we had frequently to thank 
them for their politeness and attention. Lieutenant 
Boon von Ostade had the kindness to take several 
of us all over it, and explain its different parts. 

Sourabaya is surrounded by marshes, which on 
the land side are more or less cultivated, but towards 
the sea become regular mangrove swamps. There 
are three lines of access to the town: the Kali mas 
or river canal, which runs through its centre and 
thence into the strait; the south road; and the 
west road, or that which leads to Grisek. Tho 
town is surrounded by wet ditches and a rampart 
of turf. On the south road an arched gateway of 


134 CITADEL OF SOURABAYA. 


brick was now being erected, pierced with loop-holes 
for musquetry, and otherwise prepared for defending 
the bridge over the ditches. The west road, where 
it approaches the rampart, is carried through a 
mangrove swamp, and makes one or two zig-zag 
traverses, so that an enemy advancing by it would 
be exposed at various angles to the fire of the 
defenders of the town. Where the turf rampart 
comes round from each side to-the Kali mas it joins 
the defences of the citadel, which defends the river 
from an enemy approaching from the sea, and keeps 
the communication open between the town and the 
shipping if he come from the land side. ‘The 
citadel is built of granite brought from Europe, 
and surrounded by a large ditch connected with the 
river. It is pentagonal in shape, with an outwork 
at each of the angles, which is mined and can be 
blown up if necessary. The walls are of great 
thickness, and contain stabling for ‘70 artillery 
horses, and barracks and accommodation for 5000 
men. 1am not sufficiently learned in fortification 
to describe it scientifically, but it seemed to me a 
place of great strength, and as it is only now just 
finished, it is, no doubt, constructed on the best 
principles, and with the latest improvements of the 
military art. I believe, however, that this fortifi- 
cation is exceeded in strength by the one recently 
finished at Solo, or Surakerta, in the heart of the 
native dominions. 

On Dec. 4th, the Resident, M. Pietermatz, was 


VISIT TO GRESIK. 135 


kind enough to drive out Captain Blackwood, Lieut. 
Yule, and myself to Gresik. He called for us at 
Mr. Fraser’s, at half-past six in the morning, in a 
kind of char-a-banc. Two spearmen, with small 
penons on their lances, preceded us, and two others 
followed. We passed through Sourabaya, and 
changed horses and escort immediately beyond it. 
We then proceeded along a straight-raised road or 
causeway, through swamps and marshes, entirely 
covered at high water, and with many deep channels 
leading to the sea, which was generally half a mile 
distant on our right hand. Between the road and 
the sea were many large square ponds or tanks, in 
which sea-fish were kept, and which were let out 
by Government to individuals, principally Chinese, 
for a considerable rent. Here and there among 
these fish-ponds, and surrounded by mud flats and 
mangrove swamps, were small hamlets or kampongs, 
collections of small huts of reeds and bamboos, 
perched on a block of raised ground, walled in with 
a bamboo fence, and accessible by a narrow cause- 
way. Having no trees about them, and being very 
dirty, they had a most desolate and dreary appear- 
ance, and must, I should think, be the very nestling 
places of fever and malaria. 

We again changed horses at a wissel-post, half 
way to Gresik, which is by the road nearly twelve 
miles distant from Sourabaya, but our escort was 
relieved about every three miles by other spearmen, 
stationed at the roadside. 


136 CANDIDATES FOR OFFICE. 


About a mile from Gresik, at a bridge over a 
considerable stream, which must, I suppose, be a 
branch of the Kediri, we were met by a carriage 
containing the Dutch and native authorities of the 
district, with a large body of attendants on horse- 
back, in their gayest dresses, with two or three 
flags flymg, and after stopping for a moment to 
greet them, we entered the town in procession. 
Before entering we rose onto some undulating 
ground, and came down into the back of the town, 
and passing through a green square in the centre, 
which I had not seen before, and on which a game- 
lang were clanging forth a welcome to the Resident, 
we drew up at the Assistant-resident’s house, under 
a fine row of tamarinds, in the street leading down 
to the quay. 

It appeared that both the authorities by whom 
we were received were “acting” only. The late 
Assistant-resident of Gresik had just been promoted 
to the residency of Rembang, and the principal 
Controller of the district was acting in his stead. 
The late Regent, or native chief, had died three 
days before, and his son-in-law, Regent of the infe- 
rior neighbouring district of Lamongan, was now 
acting as Regent of Gresik. He, with several 
other of the principal natives, were candidates for 
the vacant office, and on our alighting, M. Pieter- 
matz, the Resident, held a kind of levée, each of the 
native chiefs coming up and making a deep obei- 
sance, and even kneeling and kissing his hand. 


—=a- ~~ 


DRESS OF THE NATIVES. “bez 


I confess I was hardly prepared for this assump- 
tion of the honours of royalty by our excellent and 
kind-hearted friend, but he seemed to treat it quite 
as a matter of course, held out his hand, smiled 
graciously, shook each courtier by the hand when 
he had risen, and said a few civil words to him, and 
then continued his conversation with us. Most of 
the candidates or courtiers were grave-looking 
middle-aged men, of a decent stoutness of body and 
sedate manners. They were all richly dressed in 
green or brown velvet jackets, ornamented with 
small round gold buttons, with handsome sarongs 
round their middles, and dark handkerchiefs round 
their heads. Gold and diamonds were not unfre- 
quent ornaments, either on their shirt studs or on 
the sheaths and handles of the krisses that were 
stuck into the shawls they wore wrapped round 
their waists. ‘They mostly had their legs and feet 
bare, but one, who seemed to have been riding, had 
Wellington boots on of a fashionable shape, and 
white European trowsers and straps under his 
sarong, combining rather oddly with the eastern 
appearance of all the rest of his costume. The 
attendants of one or two carried handsome and 
massive-looking gold seri boxes, and gold goblets of 
considerable size, which turned out to be their 
masters’ spitting-boxes. 

After a short halt we drove on to Sutjé to see the 
eaves which I had before visited, but where I now 
succeeded in procuring one of the edible swallows’ 


138 ANCIENT TOMBS. 


nests, with an egg and a young bird, which one of 
the attendants detached from an upper part of one 
of the caverns. In shape it was just like the nest 
of our house-marten, but much smaller externally, 
and thinner. It looked exactly as if made of a 
fibrous semi-transparent isinglass of a slightly yel- 
lowish colour. 

From Sutjé we returned along the hills to near 
Gresik, when we turned up to the right to visit 
some ancient tombs. On the summit of the low 
hills, in a commanding and pleasant situation, we 
found some old remains and foundations of temples or 
other buildings, in stone and brick, and some more 
modern but still ancient erections of wood. In one 
of these, which was most elaborately and beautifully 
ornamented with carved work, both inside and out, 
representing leaves and flowers, and various patterns 
of tracery, was a stone tomb or sarcophagus, on 
which, in a kind of shrine or alcove of white muslin 
hangings and curtains, was a box containing a sacred 
kriss. This was the tomb and prisaka, or heir-loom 
kriss of Sunan Giri, one of the first Mahomedan 
princes of the country, who died in the Javan year 
1400 (a4. D. 1475), at the time of the destruction of 
Majopahit, the last Hindoo kingdom of the island.* 


* See Sir S. Raffles’s History of Java, vol. 2, p. 131, ete. 
Susuhunan, Susunan, or Sunan, means “‘apostle,’”’ and was the 
title assumed by the first Mahomedan kings and princes of Java. 
Susunan was translated by the Dutch and English into Emperor, 
and was the title given to the principal native prince who ruled at 


CEMETERY OF GRESIK. 139 


It was a very common-looking kriss, with a waved 
or damasked blade, and plain wooden handle and 
sheath. It had, however, a long history attached 
to it, which the two old Mahomedan priests who 
shewed it to us seemed very eager to explain, but 
which I did not rightly understand.* 

A crowd of people had now gathered about us, 
among whom, as we were going away, the Resident 
ordered handfuls of copper coin to be thrown, appa- 
rently in compliance with a well-known custom, as 
the people seemed all waiting for the scramble that 
ensued. We then drove down to the cemetery of 
Gresik, just on the outskirts of the town, and found 
it a very interesting place. It consisted of a num- 
ber of court-yards, separated by thick and massive 
brick walls. Some of the tombs were covered by 
simple monumental slabs, but others were in build- 


Surakerta. Sultan, the second title in dignity, was given to the 
prince of Yugyakerta, when the native dominions were divided 
by the influence of the Dutch. Panambahan, “ object of obei- 
sance,” is the third title in dignity ; it is the one given to the 
native prince of Sumenap, in the island of Madura. 

* The Javanese not only prize those krisses which have re- 
mained long in their families, and descended from their ances- 
tors, but also esteem their value greatly enhanced by their being 
instrumental in any noted deed, or the death of any celebrated 
or important personage. This gives us another analogy between 
their customs and those of the Polynesians. See Mariner’s Tonga 
Islands, vol. i. p. 135; also vol. ii. p. 68, where he mentions 
the high estimation in which the dagger that killed Captain Cook 
was held at the Sandwich Islands. 


140 TOMB OF MULANA IBRAHIM. 


ings like chapels, either single sarcophagi or family 
groups in more spacious buildings, with separate 
and handsomely ornamented masses of masonry. On 
these were inscriptions, either in the Javanese or 
Arabic character. 

In one compartment was a block of black marble, 
with an Arabic inscription to the memory of Mu- 
lana Ibrahim, one of the early Mahomedan mis- 
sionaries, who died and was buried here in the Javan 
year 1334 (a.p. 1408). I was curious to know 
where this marble came from, as there was no other 
stone of that kind, and the importation of such a 
block from a distance must have been at no trifling 
expense ; but nobody could give me any information. 
Is there any black marble on the coasts of India, 
Arabia, or Egypt? Its importation even thence, 
and there is certainly no nearer source for it, unless 
perhaps in China, argues no inconsiderable zeal and 
power on the part of the disciples of Mulana. In 
another court-yard was the freshly-made grave of 
the Regent, who died three days ago. A plot of 
recently strewed earth was covered with white 
sweetly-scented flowers, just fading, and some men 
were at work with a wooden frame over it, appa- 
rently the model of the tomb about to be erected. 
Many of the walls and gateways of the court-yard 
appeared to be of much greater antiquity than the 
tombs ; they were of carved stone, and seemed 
crumbling with age. Gresik, indeed, was formerly 
an important place, and is mentioned in the oldest 


— — — 


FABULOUS STORY. 141 


histories and traditions of the island, and it is pro- 
bable that many long-forgotten families of Hindoo, 
or still more ancient religions, have mingled their 
ashes in its grave-yards. 

The inscriptions and ornamental carvings on some 
of even the more recent tombs, were of by no means 
contemptible execution or design, and the whole 
was a far more interesting place than I expected, 
and, as well as the tombs on the hill, well worth 
visiting, and a more detailed examination than we 
had time to afford them. 

From the grave-yards we adjourned to the house 
of the Assistant-resident, where I need hardly add, 
we were regaled with a most sumptuous breakfast. 
The Resident, M. Pietermatz, had told me of a sin- 
gular story current among the Javanese, and appa- 
rently not wholly discredited by some of the Euro- 
peans, of a bird that springs from the animal inha- 
biting a certain bivalve shell. A Dutch surgeon in 
Gresik had preserved some of these molluscs in 
spirits, and on the jar being sent for, I found they 
were large-sized acephalous molluscs, with a strong, 
dark hairy byssus, but from want of the shell I could 
not make out exactly to what genus it belonged. It 
was probably either a large mytilus, a meleagrina, 
or a pinna, and was certainly not a lepas. It is 
curious to see the same superstitious idea attached 
to the inhabitant of a shell in Java, as was once cur- 
rent in Europe with regard to the Bernacle Goose 
springing from the shell of the barnacle, or lepas 


142 KING OF HOLLAND'S BIRTHDAY. 


anatifa. Mr. Lane, in his edition of the Arabian 
Nights’ Entertainments, when Sindbad mentions 
this singular fact of natural history as one of the 
wonders of the Indian seas, is surprised at it, and 
curious to know whence it could arise. ‘There is 
no doubt that it is an old Javanese notion, and that 
the early Arab traders, who frequented Java, carried 
it thence to Arabia and Egypt. <A similar notion 
existing in the north-west of Europe, however, from 
still more ancient times, is a ‘‘ very singular cownci- 
dence,” but only shews how prone the early races of 
men are to draw the same inferences from similar 
natural objects and occurrences. The likeness of 
the byssus in the one case, and the cirrhi in the 
other, to hair or feathers, no doubt, gave rise to the 
same strange and marvel-loving exercise of imagi- 
nation. — 

Dec. 6.—-This being the King of Holland’s birth- 
day, was celebrated by the firing of salutes, a 
review of all the troops, and a public ball in the 
rooms of the Concordia at night. At this, of course, 
all the beauty and fashion of Sourabaya were assem- 
bled. Of the former, there was not a very crowded 
display, but the whole was managed in good style, 
except what we should consider the solecism of cigar 
smoking in the vestibule of the ball-room. Several 
Javanese gentlemen were present in their native 
dresses, but I did not observe them join any of the ~ 
dances. 

The Resident of Sourabaya having invited Cap- 


ad 
eS 
a 

* 
a 
7 


VISIT THE SULTAN’ OF BANKALANG. 143 


tain Blackwood and a party of the officers of the Fly, 
to accompany him on a visit to the Sultan of Bank- 
dlang, in the island of Madura, on December 10th, 
Lieut. Risk and Messrs. Harvey, Melville, and I, 
gladly availed ourselves of the opportunity. The Re- 
sident, accompanied by Captain Blackwood and the 
two Messrs. Fraser, came down to the naval arsenal 
at eight o’clock, when we all embarked in the Sul- 
tan’s state-barge, that had been sent over for us. It 
was, however, dead low water, and on arriving at 
the mouth of the Kali mas we found the shoals did 
not admit of our passing out in a boat of such bur- 
then, and we called for tambangans. Messrs. Pym 
and Soper, happening to pass in one at the time, 
came to render assistance, and were invited to accom- 
pany us. Crossing the strait, we landed on a stone 
pier, withasmall shed or pandopo at the end of it, and 
on reaching the shore found a kind of cuest-house, 
or passangerang, with a table covered with fruit 
and refreshments, where we were received by M. 
Van Graoul, the Assistant-resident stationed at the 
court of the Sultan, and by one of the Sultan’s sons. 
The latter was a small man, in the uniform of a 
Dutch cavalry-officer, but with a dark handkerchief 
tied round his head, in the distinctive fashion that 
marks the native chief. Four carriages were wait- 
ing for us, in which we proceeded along a pretty 
good road, that for the first three or four miles 
crossed some very low swampy ground, occupied 


partly by paddy-fields, partly by fields of Indian 


144 ASPECT OF MADURA. 


corn. These led us to the foot of a low range of 
hills, running nearly east and west, parallel to the 
shore, half-way up the ascent of which we stopped 
to change horses. These hills were evidently 
formed of the same recent limestone I had seen at 
Gresik ; and on breaking open some blocks by the 
way-side, I was gratified by finding, internally, 
patches and bands of a cellular structure, distinctly 
coralline, although all external forms and markings 
were obliterated. It looked just as if, after masses 
of coral had been matted together, they had been 
partially decomposed or melted into one another, as 
it were, destroying all the external structure, but 
leaving more or less unaltered some of the inner 
and central portions of each mass. 

After rising onto the hills we found the neigh- 
bouring country an open plain, gently undulating, 
broken here and there by lines and clusters of low 
craggy hills, with detached belts or groves of wood 
embosoming the villages, the rest being carefully 
cultivated, apparently, with crops of Indian corn, 
and other plants which I did not know, but with 
little or no rice. The soil was brown, and even 
barren-looking, after the black alluvial flats or rich 
volcanic loams of Java. At one place the road 
passed for nearly a mile through the plantations of 
a village, and had then a very pretty aspect, as 
rows of bamboos, springing from each side in clus- 
ters, arched entirely over-head, and were backed by 
cocoa-nuts, bananas, and other fruit trees. We saw 


ENTER BANKALANG. 14.5 


a great many people along the road, who all 
stood reverently aside to let us pass, and many 
turned their backs on us, which is a native mark 
of respect, meaning, I suppose, that the inferior 


_ is not worthy or does not dare look upon his supe- 


rior. 

On entering Bankalang, we found the road lined 
on each side by spearmen, who stood about three 
yards apart from each other, holding up their long 
lances, and each in a different posture, frequently a 
striking but rather theatrical attitude. Behind 
the spearmen were other people squatted down, 
just in front of the bamboo fences of the kampongs, 
between which the road passed, and from which the 
music of the gamélang, or native band, resounded 
on all sides. Wecame in at acorner of the great 
central square, or “green,” and passing a large 
brick mosque, before which a guard of infantry was 
drawn up, with a standard, that was lowered as we 
went by, we turned short to the right, and driving 
down the middle of the square, reached the gate of 
the Sultan’s palace. This gateway was in a brick 
wall, in front of which was a broad ditch, crossed 
by a wooden bridge, and defended by a few guns. 
Here native infantry, in a Dutch uniform of blue 
and yellow, and armed with musket and _ bayonet, 
took the place of the spearmen, and lined the road. 
After passing one or two other walls, through 
similar gateways, we halted in front of a very large 

VOL. Il. L 


146 RECEIVED BY THE SULTAN. 


pandopo, where stood the Sultan,* ready to receive 
us. He was of the middle height, with a 
slender figure, a good-humoured, thin, shrivelled 
countenance, and with very easy and _ polished 
manners. He was dressed in a close black silk 
jacket or short frock, a dark sarong, a white shirt 
with diamond studs, and a dark handkerchief - 
wrapped close round his head. He wore on his 
breast a diamond star, the order of the Netherlands 
Lion, of which he is a Knight, and on his hand he 
had a large diamond ring, said to be worth 30,000 
rupees. He had also, but did not wear, a black 
three-cornered cocked hat, with a fringe round the 
edge, and a handsome diamond aigrette in front, — 
which he afterwards told us, with some exultation, 
had been presented to him by the English Governor, 
Sir S. Raffles. When we had all alighted, and 
been introduced to the Sultan, and one or two 
European military officers, who seemed to be in 
attendance on him, he led the way through the 
pandopo, which was crowded with a collection of 
European carriages, of which he is a great fancier, 
and then passing through another gate, he conducted 
us to the state apartments. As soon as we entered 
this enclosure, two bands, one native the other 
European, saluted us with a simultaneous clangour 


* T have just seen in the newspapers mention of the death of 
this native chief, but no account of his successor, and it is pro- 
bable that his dominions are either now or shortly will be, 
formally absorbed into those of the Dutch. (April, 1847.) 


ee 


THE STATE APARTMENTS. 147 


of overpowering loudness. ‘The native gameélang 
was a very large one, and all the various instru- 
ments of great size and power, while the Euro- 
pean band consisted of almost every kind of 
trumpet and brass musical instrument. The 
state apartments consisted of a great irregularly 
shaped hall, which resembled a pandopo in struc- 
ture, being, in fact, only several contiguous roofs, 
supported on pillars and square masses of brick- 
work, the spaces between which were entirely open 
below. ‘The roofs were of that structure which is 
common in the east, rising by successive steps to the 
centre, looking on each slope like the under side of 
a staircase. From the centre of each roof, or com- 
partment of the hall, hung a large chandelier, while 
handsome lamps were suspended in all directions. 
The floor was matted, and occupied by several 
tables, sofas, and chairs, while the pillars or pieces 
of wall were covered with French mirrors, prints, 
and ornaments, and opal vases with similar nick- 
nacks and drawing-room toys lay scattered about on 


small slabs and tables. Sofas and chairs were now 


arranged in a horse-shoe shape in the first compart- 
ment of the hall, and the Sultan taking the middle 
place, with Captain Blackwood on one side and the 
Resident on the other, we all sat down according to 
our rank, and were served with tea and cakes. 
About a dozen of the Sultan’s sons were present, 
two of whom were in Dutch uniforms, holding com- 
missions in that service: the youngest was a very 


£ 2 


148 TIGER AND BUFFALO FIGHT. 


pretty boy, about ten years old. His favourite son, 
however, the third, whom he has named as his suc- 
cessor, was now sick. A Frenchman and a Prus- 
sian were present in uniform, both being in the Sul- 
tan’s service —the one training his infantry, the 
other his cavalry. He always keeps under arms a 
body of one thousand infantry and about sixty horse. 

After a slight refreshment, carriages were ordered, 
and we went to see a fight between a buffalo and a 
tiger. This took place in a large court-yard on the 
north side of the square, in the middle of which was 
a tall cage of square posts, driven into the ground 
and partly roofed over. At one side of it was a 
stage for the principal spectators, while the people 
crowded round it on the ground. It wasa wretched 
sight, for the tiger, though a large and once power- 
ful animal, seemed wasted by disease, starvation, 
and old age. It was a well known animal, and had 
killed at different times seven human beings, but it 
had now been caught more than twenty days, during 
which time it had refused all food. Without ‘a 
thought of fighting, it lay crouched on the ground 
in a corner of the cage, while the buffalo, one of the 
large mud oxen, stood looking at him very uncon- 
cernedly. Lighted torches and scalding water were 
applied to him, but the poor old tiger only yelled, 
and tried to crawl away, while the buffalo, as soon 
as he moved, gave a snort, and walked up and butted 
him with his horns against the bars of the cage, and 
after once or twice fairly tossing him into the air, 
and letting him fall on his back, he left the poor 


HANDSOME BREAKFAST. 149 


brute lying motionless. Altogether, it was not only 
a cruel spectacle, but a stupid, uninteresting, and 
disgusting one. 

We then returned to the palace, and sat down in 
the centre of the hall to a splendid breakfast, or 
rather a dinner, at one o’clock. A long table was 
covered with a very handsome service of china, 
glass, and plate, for about thirty persons, and the 
entertainment consisted of soup, fish, flesh and fowl, 
in infinite variety, succeeded by cakes, sweetmeats, 
fruit, and abundance of French wine and English 
ale and porter. ‘The Sultan sat in the centre of 
one side of the table, and the Resident opposite 
him, and the whole was conducted quite in the style 
of a European gentleman’s house. The revenue of 
the Sultan is about 8,000/. per annum, of which 
4,,000/. is derived from the rent of some birds’-nest 
caves on the north side of the island. ‘The western 
half of the island of Madura is his patrimony, the 
eastern being under the rule of the Panambihan of 
Suménap, the same who is mentioned by Sir S. 
Raffles with such commendation for his literary 
attainments. 

About half-past one, and before breakfast was 
over, it began to rain heavily, and continued for 
three hours. This interval we were expected to 
spend in a siesta, and everybody retired to his bed- 
room. ‘The resident officers drove off in their car- 
riages, and the good-natured Sultan immediately 
began pottering about, shewing us to our respective 


150 SULTAN’S PRIVATE BAND. 


apartments With an alacrity resembling that of an 
old landlady doing the honours of her establishment. 
Behind the principal hall was a brick building, 
in the chief room of which was a large kind of 
throne, or seat of justice, or something of the kind, 
overshadowed by a canopy, with several pillars in 
front, and one or two cushioned seats, and other 
things which were covered with coloured hangings 
and draperies. The room being very dimly lighted, 
I could not make out its exact form, but was in- 
formed that it was the place where the royal 
marriages were celebrated and other important cere- 
monies performed. On each side of this room were 
two spacious and handsomely furnished bed-rooms, 
while on one side of the court-yard, which surrounds 
the hall, were other buildings containing more bed- 
rooms, so that we were all very well accommodated. 

On returning to the hall at five o’clock, I found 
the Sultan amusing himself by playing on the two- 
stringed fiddle, and leading a small but very finely 
toned and highly ornamented gamelang, played by 
picked musicians. His fiddle, though it still had a 
cocoa-nut covered with parchment for the sounding 
board, was adorned with ivory, gold, and jewels; 
and though nothing could render pleasing the harsh 
and squeaking tones of the instrument, he seemed 
to play with considerable taste and skill, and was 
accompanied by the band with much delicacy. I sat 
down by him, and they played one or two tunes of a 
slow, plaintive, and very pleasing character, the air 


THE SULTAN’S BUFFOON. 1é1 


being interrupted now and then by an irregular 
quick turn and a rapid repetition of a few single 
notes, and then flowing on again as before. Pre- 
sently he called an old fellow, seemingly his buffoon 
or jester, who, squatting down before us, commenced 
singing, in a loud, harsh voice, a kind of burlesque 
song to the music, grimacing and contorting his 
countenance, and imitating the cries of fowls and 
geese, and other birds and animals. ‘The Sultan 
laughed very heartily, although it seemed quite a 
customary thing; for as soon as the old man had 
finished his strange cries and gesticulations, and 
«< left his damnable faces,”’ his countenance at once 
fell into a settled serious expression, as if tired of his 
task, but resigned to go on with it as often as it 
should be required. ‘This sudden contrast between 
ridiculous action and deep gravity was to me the 
most amusing part of the exhibition. The Sultan 
then exhibited to us some very handsome cocks, 
apparently crosses between different domestic and 
wild breeds. They were kept in large cages, en- 
tirely for show, and were certainly most beautiful 
and noble birds. As it grew dark, several conical 
stands with many arms were placed about the court- 
yard, on which small glasses filled with oil floating 
on water were set for lamps, and gradually all the 
chandeliers and lamps in the hall were lighted up. 
At six o’clock the Sultan and his sons retired 
through a door in one corner of the court-yard to 
the mosque, or private chapel, to perform his even- 


152 SULTANS CARD PARTY. 


ing devotions, which lasted till eight. I could hear 
the chanting of the priests, and it put me in mind 
of rather a noisy and discordant chorus of a drinking 
song. ‘The Sultan having been rather a free liver 
in his youth, had latterly become religious, and was 
much influenced by his priests. 

At eight o’clock the European officers returned 
in full dress, and the Sultan and his suite came out 
from chapel, and preparations were made for the 
evening's amusement. In one compartment of the 
hall was a round table, with cards, and the Sultan, 
who is still fond of a little gaming, immediately 
formed a party for vingtun, in which the greater 
part of the company joined. We observed that his 
sons treated him with great respect. One of them, 
in a European uniform, on coming in to join the card 
party, assumed a crouching attitude, and first went 
and made a rapid kneeling obeisance, with joined 
hands raised before him, to his father, before he 
took his place at the table. Instead of joining the 
card party, | amused myself with examining the 
preparations for a drama in’ the Javanese style. 

At the entrance of the hall, a large screen of 
white calico, about eight feet high and sixteen or 
twenty long, had been erected, behind which, in the 
centre, hung a very bright lamp. On the floor lay 
a large recently-cut stem of a cabbage palm-tree, in 
which were stuck several hundred puppets. These 
figures were cut or stamped out of thick leather, 
and were gilded and painted, and said to cost 


- 


DRAMATIC PUPPETS. 153 


from thirty to sixty rupees each. They represented 
men and women, deities and demons, most of them 
with extraordinary towering head-dresses and flow- 
ing garments, many with grotesque or hideous 
features, and all more or less distorted. ‘There 
were some well known characters in native history, 
tradition, or romance, with several others of buf- 
foonery. ‘The whole figure was motionless, except 
the arms, which were jointed, and capable of being 
moved by strings pulled by the exhibitor. From 
the base of each figure proceeded a long thin spike, 
by which it was stuck into the cabbage-palm till 
wanted, and by which, when exhibited, it was held, 
so that the hand of the exhibitor might not be seen. 
In the centre of the screen, which was raised a foot 
or two from the ground, was a carved scene, repre- 
senting two pillars, about three feet apart, with a 
wall stretching on either hand, and in the opening 
between these two pillars, which might be taken to 
represent a large gateway, the figures or puppets 
were held. The spectator, now being seated on 
the other side of the screen, saw the shadow of the 
walls and gateway, and those of the figures, strongly 
projected on the white calico screen by means of the 
bright lamp a little behind them. The exhibitor 
being seated on the ground, so that none of his 
shadow should be seen, and the gamelang ready, 
the play commenced at eight o’clock. Striking with 
a wooden hammer on a board, as a means of regu- 
lating the tunes, or the time and measure of loudness 


sd 


154 SUBJECT OF THE DRAMA. 


of the gamelang, the exhibitor commenced, in a 
loud and sonorous voice, a kind of recitative, some- 
thing between the tone of a plain narrative and a 
chant. Then successively bringing different sha- 
dows on the screen, he put them in action by moving 
them and pulling the strings which raised and 
depressed their arms. 

The subject, I believe, was taken from the ancient 
traditions and romances of the country, and was 
probably familiar to the people, but to me utterly 
unintelligible, and it soon became very tiresome 
and monotonous; so after enjoying a laugh at the 
antic gestures of the buffoon shadow, which was 
now and then introduced, and whose motions were 
sufficiently comic, I stole away to a sofa in a remote 
corner of the hall, and resigned myself to a very 
comfortable nap till about eleven o’clock, when an 
attendant came and woke me with the intelligence 
that they were just going to dinner. 

A pretty exact repetition of our one o’clock break- 
fast now took place, being, however, if possible, a 
little more elaborate. I now first tasted birds’-nest 
soup, the excellence of which, however, was by no 
means due to the birds’-nests, which are quite an 
imaginary dainty, and only perform the part of 
isinglass. The only other remarkable thing was 
some of the very best pumelos or shaddocks I ever 
tasted, the Sultan’s garden being celebrated for 
that excellent fruit. 

After dinner, or rather supper, the Sultan rose, 


* 


AFTER DINNER TOASTS. 155 


and in “a neat speech,” in Malay, proposed the 
health of the Resident, and himself led the ‘hip, 
hip, hurrah!” with which it was received; this 
being returned by the Resident, the Sultan then 
proposed Capt. Blackwood and the English officers 
with similar honours, to which Captain Blackwood 
returned thanks through the Resident, and proposed 
the health and prosperity of the Sultan’s family, and 
on the cheers for this toast subsiding, we broke up 
from table. Wethen strolled about the hall, smok- 
ing cigars, and the Sultan, in the few words of 
English he knew, pressed on our acceptance “a 
glass of grog” before we retired for the night. 

All the time these very English proceedings were 
going on in the main body of the hall, at the far 
end of it was progressing the Javanese dramatic 
representation: the clang of the gamelang and 
strong voice of the reciter filled up the pauses in 
our conversation, our laughter, or our cheers, and 
attentive rows of people were squatted along the 
sides of the hall, with their eyes riveted on the 
screen, and apparently absorbed in the interest of 
the piece. When we retired for the night the 
Sultan was preparing to take his place before the 
screen, and whenever we woke in the night we could 
hear the sound of the gamelang uninterruptedly. 

Dec. 11.— At daylight this morning, on coming 
out of my bed-room, I found the drama of last 
night just finished, the lamp was fading, and the 
people were just beginning to take down the screen, 


ad 


156 TAKE LEAVE OF THE SULTAN. 


and were carrying away and packing in two great 
wooden chests the puppets that had been used. The 
Sultan came to meet us, having been all night en- 
gaged with the play, which had altogether lasted 
for ten mortal hours, during the whole of which 
time the same gamelang had played, the same man 
moved the puppets and recited the story. -As soon 
as we were all assembled and had drunk a cup of 
coffee, we took a grateful leave of the Sultan and 
his family, and then mounting our carriages, re- 
turned in the same order as we had come, and 
finding the barge ready for us, crossed over in it, 
and reached Sourabaya at ten o’clock. 

Dec. 14.-——1 had been hard at work hitherto, 
during the time when I was not making excursions, 
in sorting, arranging, re-labelling, and packing up 
my specimens, which to-day I fortunately finished 
in time to go by a ship about to sail for England. 
I now hoped to have some leisure to make inquiries 
on many points concerning which I felt an interest, 
and which I could only hope to learn on the spot. 
I also hoped to be able to visit the ruins of Majo- 
pahit, and re-examine the tombs at Gresik, when I 
unfortunately was attacked with fever. I mention 
this, partly to excuse and account for the incom- 
pleteness of many pieces of information in the fore- 
going sketches, and partly to describe the origin 
and the effects of the fever itself. On the 133th, 
after a hard’ day’s work packing up, I went off to 
dine on board the ship, and about nine o’clock, 


; 

: JAVA FEVER. 157 
f feeling very tired, returned to the town in a tam- 
bangan, immediately on sitting down in which I fell 
asleep. It being nearly low water we were a long 
time getting into and up the canal, and on arriving 
at the stairs I found I had been asleep more than 
an hour, with my hat off, exposed to the night-dew 
and the miasmata of the neighbouring marshes, 
and the putrid bed of the canal. I felt very unwell 
the next morning, but supposing it to be a mere 
cold, took no notice of it, and having promised Mr. 
and Mrs. Dean to come down to Gresik and dine 
with them, and accompany them to a ball at Mr. 
Lott’s house, of that town, I went down by water 
with Lieut. Boon van Ostade, and a party. The 
ball commenced between six and seven o’clock on 
the brick floor of a large saloon, and was an ex- 
ceedingly pleasant party, graced by several ‘‘ excel- 
lent specimens ” of the beauty of the Dutch ladies, 
both of pure and creole blood, but to my extreme 
horror, they continued dancing till six o’clock in 
the morning, and I was unable to get away. Toa 
man with fever in his veins this was by no means a 
cordial, and as soon as our boat regained Sourabaya 
I succumbed to it. It appeared, however, after all, 
of trifling character; Dr. Muirhead removed me on 
board, where it went off in four or five days, and in 
ten I was able to walk about, apparently as well as 
ever. But Ino longer felt the same person; languor 
and lassitude took possession both of mind and 
body, and I seemed to pass at once into the state of 


158 SUBSEQUENT LANGUOR. 


those who have been long resident in hot countries, 
and to have acquired all their listlessness and indif- 
ference, want of energy, and want of curiosity. 
Neither was this state of mind transient; I could 
not overcome it for two or three months after we 
left Java, and it was not till I had enjoyed the fresh 
sea-breezes of Torres Strait for a month or two, 
that I again felt myself fit for active exertion, or 
my former love of, and delight in, explorations and 
excursions revived. I now, for the first time, knew 
how to account for and excuse what at first seemed 
to me the blameable inertness, indolence, and indif- 
ference to anything beyond the comfort of the passing 
hour, the want of energy and action so almost univer- 
sally characteristic of the resident in hot climates. 
The European, at his first arrival, brings with 
him the feelings and powers belonging to a tempe- 
rate zone, which are acted on by the powerful 
excitement of new and delightful scenes, and he 
wonders at and contemns the apathy of the native 
or the resident European. Either by the sudden 
attack of sickness or the gradual action of the cli- 
mate, however, his own energy is undermined, and 
he eventually falls into the same listlessness and 
love of repose. 

Another apparent consequence of the fever, but 
a much more temporary one, was an attack of 
‘‘ prickly heat,” as it is called. ‘This is a kind of 
rash, or eruption, which breaks out on various parts 
of the body, especially where the clothes are tight 


+ "gia 
ys 


PRICKLY HEAT. 159 


or folded over each other, and which always appears 
on the least accession of perspiration. When slight, 
it is of no consequence, but when it acquires the 
virulence with which it attacked me and several 
others on board, it becomes a real infliction. The 
body seemed to be surrounded by an invisible pad- 
ding of the finest possible needle-points, and every 
motion, whether of a limb, or of the muscles of the 
hand or face, seemed to cause them to be pressed 
into the skin of the part which was moved. Drink- 
ing a glass of water, or doing anything which caused 
a flow of perspiration to the skin, produced this 
exquisitely painful sensation over the whole of it, 
from the crown of the head to the sole of the foot, 
and every motion, or pressure for some minutes after, 
sent fresh gleams of tingling flashing along it. It 
was said to be a healthy sign, but no malignant 
disease could equal it in continual annoyance. It 
bears the exact relation to a mortal fever, that a 
cloud of mosquitoes does to a tiger. I would always 
rather run the chance of the one seizing me at once 
than have the perpetual irritation of the other. 

On January 4th, the Prince George returned from 
Singapore, having waited till the last minute in the 
hope that either the September or October mails 
would arrive from England, both being over-due. 
Neither of them came, however, and I thus was 
obliged to enter on the second twelvemonth without 
news from friends at home, and it was more than 
half expired before I received any. A year and a 


160 GONUNG SARI. 


half without news from home is a period which few 
persons are now compelled to pass in this age of 
rapid transmission of intelligence. 

On January 8th, I drove out with Dr. Muirhead 
and Mr. Boyd to a place called Gonung Sari, about 
five miles south of Sourabaya, where there are some 
petroleum springs. Here, close on the left bank of 
the Kali mas, is a small tract of undulating country, 
like that at the back of Gresik in appearance, but 
not rising more than 100 feet above the sea. It is 
composed of the same recent limestone as that of 
Gresik and Madura, but contains beds of fossil- 
shells, chiefly, if not entirely marine, but rather 
resembling those of anestuary. [t contains nodules 
of chert also. At several places in this patch of 
limestone rise springs, impregnated with petroleum, 
which in the one we saw was a mere scum on the 
water, but in one of the others was said to be very 
abundant, and to be gathered or skimmed off in 
large quantities every morning. It was used for 
every purpose that cocoa-nut oil is put to, even for 
frying cakes and confectionary in, to which, how- 
ever, 1 communicates a tarry or smoky flavour. 
This patch of limestone, which appeared not much 
more than a mile across, is surrounded by the low 
land of the delta of the Kediri, and was probably 
once an island off its mouth. 

On January 9th, the Resident, M. Pietermatz, gave 
us a very handsome dinner, which he apologised 
(quite unnecessarily) for not having done before, in 


DELTA OF THE KEDIRI. 161 


consequence of illness in his family. All the prin- 
cipal Dutch officers, civil, military, and naval, were 
present, and the style of the whole affair was very 
good, and the kindness and civilities of the Resident 
and his compatriots to all of us were indiscriminate 
and abounding. Major Miller, of the Engineers, 
gave me some interesting facts regarding the delta 
of the Kediri. He said that there were many spots 
like Gonung Sari dispersed about the delta, where 
marine shells and corals were abundant, a few feet 
below the surface of the ground. He also told me 
that they had sunk an artesian well in Sourabaya, 
hoping to strike down into the Madura limestone, 
below the alluvial deposits, and procure purer water 
than that of the river. In this operation, after 
penetrating through a great thickness of sand and 
sandy mud, they came down to very fine mud, or 
clay, which they sank into for 200 feet, without 
getting through it, when their tubes collapsed, and 
the work was abandoned. 

All this shews plainly that there existed once 
a clear deep sea, in which grew corals and shells, 
the former in great numbers ; and from their detritus 
a great mass of limestone was formed. ‘This was 
partially elevated, so as to form islands, one of which 
was part of Madura, the others its neighbouring 
islets, and those which are now united to the 
land. Into the sea thus shallowed, but still in 
places several hundred feet deep, the Kediri, after 

VOL. II. M 


162 DELTA OF THE KEDIRI. 


flowing through the previously or .simultaneously- 
formed volcanic district of Malang and Antang 
and Japan, began to pour its muddy waters; that 
the finer sediment of these flowed far out, making 
shoaler all the neighbouring sea, and making a 
base of more than 200 feet at least in thickness, on 
which coarser and coarser matters were piled as the 
delta of the river advanced, and that this process 
went on till many of the smaller islands were ab- 
sorbed in the growing delta, and connected by its 
marshes. Some slight elevation might, and proba- 
bly did, also take place, as the slope of the Kediri 
through the delta is now -considerable, and its 
current strong; neither does the tide affect it far 
up from its mouth, and Madjoago, apparently on a 
dead level from the sea, is really about 100 feet 
above it. Still, even independently of any move- 
ment of elevation, the increase of the delta is going 
on, and the strait of Madura getting daily shal- 
lower, and if it had not been for the tide which 
sweeps through it, long ago it would have been 
converted into marshes. ‘This tide has carried out 
from either end of the strait great quantities of 
detritus, and strewed it over the neighbouring seas, 
till they are now likewise filling up. The result 
will be, I believe, the formation of a bar at each 
end of the strait, obstructing and gradually prohi- 
biting the entrance and exit of the tide. If this be 
not artificially:removed, a mere pool will at last be 


FILLING UP OF THE STRAIT. 163 


left between Sourabaya and Madura, which the 
Kali mas will gradually convert into marshes, and 
finally, all, except its own narrow channel, into 
dry land. The delta of the Kediri, moreover, is 
only separated by the narrow range of low hills 
behind Gresik from that of the Solo River, a much 
larger and more important stream, draining the 
very centre of the island, and being by far the 
largest river in it. I did not see anything of this 
river, or the north-western part of the strait, but 
from the maps and descriptions it appears to be 
bringing down large deposits of detritus ; and I 
think the action of the two rivers must at no great 
distance of time utterly obliterate the strait. During 
the war at the beginning of this century, large 


frigates traversed the strait of Madura; now, even 


common merchant ships must quit it before they 
are half loaded, and complete their cargoes at Point 
Panka or Passarouan, according as they are bound 
to the westward or the east. 

Jan. 12.—At eight this morning we sailed from 
Sourabaya, to the great relief of most of us on board, 


~ as we had become heartily tired of it. I was told 


that rice was dearer now than it had ever been 

known before, being 15 rupees a picul, and that 

scarcity, approaching even to famine, was beginning 

to be felt, that many people were searching the 

woods for wild roots and fruits for a subsistence, 

and considerable fears entertained of the result. 
M 2 


164: POLYNESIAN CUSTOMS. 


As, however, I never heard any more of it, I sup- 
pose it did not turn out so bad as was expected. — 

Dr. Zollinger told me that the names of places 
in Java were often changed by the natives in: conse- 
quence of any great sickness or other calamity hap- 
pening there. This seems to be analogous to a 
custom among the Polynesians of changing the 
names of men or things on any great event happen- 
ing to them.—(See Vancouver’s Voyages, book Ist, 
chap. 7th.) Another very striking custom in Java, | 
which I have not mentioned, is, that the bride and 
bridegroom in the marriage procession are always 
smeared over the upper part of the body and the 
face and arms with a thick yellow paste. Now, in 
the Hamoa or Navigators Islands the same practice 
is kept up, and the bride especially is smeared with 
sandal-wood oil and turmeric, making the skin deep 
orange.* 

In the island of Rotuma, also (as described in ‘a 
paper contributed to the ‘‘ United Service Journal,”’ 
August, 1831, by Mr. Bennett), both the bride and 
bridegroom are said to be smeared over with yellow 
paint. I have noticed other striking analogies be- 
tween the Javanese and the Polynesians in the pre- 
ceding pages, whenever we met with a custom or ob- 
servance in the one resembling what I had read of 
in the other. I have no doubt that a more intimate 
acquaintance with the several people would discover 
other resemblances still lingering, in spite of their 


* See Mariner’s Tonga Islands, vol. i. p. 162. 


POLYNESIAN CUSTOMS. 165 


present difference of religion, government, and 
general circumstances.* 


* See, upon these and other kindred topics, the work before 
referred to, the 5th vol. of the last edition of ‘* Dr. Prichard’s 
Researches into the Physical History of Man.” I much regretted 
that I never read this till after my return to England. The only 
edition in Captain Blackwood’s library on board the Fly was an 
old one, without the part relating to Polynesia and the Eastern 
Archipelago. 


CHAPTER VI. 


NOTES ON THE GOVERNMENT OF JAVA—ARISTOCRATIC CON- 
STITUTION OF DUTCH CHAMBERS PRODUCES AN ARBITRARY 
COLONIAL GOVERNMENT—GOVERNOR-GENERAL AND COUN- 
CIL—MAATSCHAPPY (COMPANY OR FACTORY) STRICT COM- 
MERCIAL MONOPOLY — DUTCH POSSESSIONS IN THE EAST 
INDIES —-INTERNAL GOVERNMENT OF JAVA— DIVISION 
INTO RESIDENCIES—SUBORDINATE NATIVE AND EUROPEAN 
OFFICERS—PER CENTAGE ON PRODUCE — NATIVE COURTS 
OF JUSTICE-——-ADJUSTMENT OF LAND TAX—OTHER TAXES-— 
FORCED LABOUR RATES — DUTIES ON IMPORTS — EURO- 
PEANS IN JAVA—-NO FOREIGNERS ALLOWED TO RESIDE— 
EFFECTS OF THE GOVERNMENT SYSTEM ON EUROPEANS 
—EFFECTS ON NATIVES—CHAIN OF CITADELS—-PROBABLE 
RESULTS OF A CHANGE OF SYSTEM=--NOTE ON THE SUGAR 
CULTIVATION. 


I at one time hoped to have been able to acquire 


a more complete and well defined notion of the na- 
ture of the Dutch Government of Java than I now 
find myself to possess. I had considerable difficulty 
in acquiring information on the spot, partly from 
my ignorance of the Dutch and native languages, 
and partly from the apparent reluctance of most 
people to talk publicly on the subject. ‘The scat- 
tered notes which I am now going to lay before the 
reader are principally the result of many desultory 
conversations with different people more or less per- 


=. = 


EAST INDIAN GOVERNMENT: 167 


fectly acquainted with the subject, while I was in the 
island. I have also received some valuable infor- 
mation since my return home from a gentleman 
whose name I wish I was at liberty to mention, and 
thus publicly acknowledge my obligations to him. 
In the first place, as regards the home government 
of Holland, it appears that the middle and lower 
classes of the Dutch people are but poorly repre- 
sented in the chambers. This aristocratic consti- 
tution of the Dutch Government at home gives to 
its Colonial department an almost purely arbitrary 
or despotic character. The East Indian dominions 
of Holland are ruled over by a Governor-general 
and a Council. The Council is composed of four 
members and a vice-president, the Governor himself 
being president : it can, however, only offer advice, 
has no power of its own, and the Governor can, if 
he please, act quite independently of, and totally con- 
trary to, the advice of his council. The Colonial 
Minister of Holland is, of course, ostensibly respon- 
sible to the Chambers, and it is from him that the 
Governor-General receives his orders. I believe, 
however, that this responsibility is almost a nullity, 
and that, virtually, the King of Holland is the ab- 
solute monarch of his East Indian dominions. 
There is another body, which, although not part 
of the Government of the Netherlands East Indies, 
must, from its nature, have great influence and 
power there, so great indeed that it seems to be 
principally for its benefit that the Government is 


168 THE MAATSCHAPPY. 


administered. This is the Maatschappy (company 
or factory), a commercial company, established by 
the late King of Holland in 1824, with a charter 
giving it a strict monopoly of all commerce to the 
East Indies for twenty-five years. An extension for 
ten years more has recently been obtained by the 
company. ‘The late King of Holland was himself a 
large shareholder in the company, and the present 
King, of course, inherits his father’s shares, and 
with them his interest in the pecuniary welfare of 
this factory. Most of the Members of the Chambers 
are likewise large shareholders in the Maatschappy, 
and of course have an interest in supporting its 
monopoly. The Maatschappy, independently of its 
monopoly in supplying the islands with all neces- 
saries, acts as agent for the Government, receives 
the produce monopolized by the Government of 
Java, carries it home, sells it, and accounts for the 
proceeds to the Home Government. 

The Dutch Government are in debt to the Maat- 
schappy about 40,000,000 of guilders (3,340,0002.), 
and as security for the principal and interest of this 
sum, they have mortgaged to it all the produce 
received in the East Indies, and the Maatschappy, 
when it has realised this produce, only pay proceeds 
after deducting the interest on their loan and their 
heavy commission as agents. 

The finances, however, both of the colonies and 
the home government have latterly been so much 
deranged, that the Maatschappy as well as the 


RELAXATION OF MONOPOLY. 169 


Government see the necessity of some sort of modifi- 
cation of this strict monopoly. To relieve the dis- 
tresses of the colonies, and in the hope of introducing 
some specie into them (of which, except in the shape 
of debased copper coin, they are utterly destitute), 
the Government, it is said, propose to release one- 
third of the sugar produced by parties having con- 
tracts with them, on condition of those parties 
delivering the other two-thirds of a superior quality ; 
the expenses of freight and Maatschappy commis- 
sion would thus tell less heavily on an article of 
greater than of lesser value. This the Government 
can do without infringing on their contract with the 
Maatschappy, because produce has lately so much 
increased, that the two-thirds reserved would more > 
than cover the amount necessary for satisfying the 
demands of the Maatschappy.* By this measure it 


* JT cannot resist the temptation of making some extracts from 
a-letter on this subject I received from an esteemed correspon- 


dent, well acquainted with Holland and its colonial affairs. 


«© Those who do not look well into these matters, will be led to 
suppose that it is owing to this factory (Maatschappy) that the 
great increase in the Dutch mercantile navy, and the increase in 
the revenue derived from the colonies has taken place. Far from 
it. Monopoly has been tried by every nation, and found to be 
ruinous to a country. Who are they that are now profiting by 
the present measures? Why, the rich capitalists, the owners of 
Maatschappy stock, a few shipowners and manufacturers ; but 
how are the poorer classes situated? Why, labouring under 
heavier taxes than any other country in the world. Dutch ma- 
nufactures are forced into Java, to the exclusion of foreign, at 


170 DUTCH EASTERN POSSESSIONS. 


is calculated that there would be added to the pre- 
sent trifling free produce of Java about 300,000 piculs 
of sugar, or 18,500 tons. 

The Dutch possessions in the East Indies con- 
sist of— 

1. Part of the island of Sumatra. 

2, Almost the whole of the island of Java. 

3. The islands of Banca and Billiton. 

4. The islands of Bintang and Linga. 

5. Large parts of the southern portion of the 
island of Borneo, which have recently been incorpo- 
rated into one or two regular residencies, and assi- 
milated to their Javanese possessions. 


a loss of 123 per cent. to the colonial revenue, the duty on Dutch 
cottons, for instance, being 123, while that on foreign is 25. 
The factory only charter Dutch bottoms to carry home Java pro- 
duce, and pay 75 per cent. more freight than they would be 
obliged to pay by foreign vessels.” . . . ‘Where is now the 
mercantile spirit, the spirit of enterprise, that formerly existed in 
Holland? completely dead. There is hardly a merchant in the 
country: the Maatschappy is the only merchant. Dutchmen who 
have capital place it in the factory stock, receive their interest, 
and smoke their pipes in comfort. Those who have no capital 
are shopkeepers, or clerks in German houses, who act as pur- 
chasers or transmitters of Java produce into Germany. And what 
is the actual state of the finance in Holland! Deplorable! Not- 
withstanding all the fine statements made by Finance Ministers 
(and there is no people in the world more clever at figures than 
the Dutch) there is not the least doubt that Holland is bankrupt, 
and it is only wonderful, notwithstanding the warnings that have 
been given, that England has not become more wary, but still 
holds largely of this stock, because it pays a high interest. -It 
will explode some day, like the United States Bank.” 


NATIVE DOMINIONS IN JAVA. 171 


6. The Macassar government, including parts of 
the islands of Celebes and Sumbawa. 

7- The Molucca islands, and some detached out- 
lying posts on several other islands. — 

8. The south-west half of Timor, and the neigh- 
bouring small islands. 

9. To these may be added the recent conquests 
in the island of Bali. 

I am only very imperfectly informed of the nature 
of their government, or the extent of their power in 
these different places ; but believe it to be, as nearly 
as circumstances will permit, assimilated to the sys- 
tem established in Java, respecting which I shall 
now lay before the reader the following notes. 

In the centre of the south side of the island of 
Java is a considerable but now greatly reduced 
tract of country, still under the nominal rule of the 
native princes, who have “viceroys over them” in 
the shape of Dutch Residents at their courts. These 
two native princes are styled the Emperor or Sunan 
of Surakerta, and the Sultan of Yugyakerta. Ma- 
daira is also divided between the Sultan of Banka- 
lang and the Panambahan of Suménap, who are 
likewise controlled by Dutch Assistant-residents. 
The remainder of the island of Java is divided into 
about twenty districts, each of which is called a 
Residency, from being governed by an officer styled 
a Resident. Each Resident has under him two 
sets of officers, Native and European. His Resi- 
dency is divided into districts, over each of which 


7 CHAIN “OF EUROPEAN OFFICERS. 


is placed a native chief called a Regent, and an 
European officer styled Assistant-resident. These 
are again subdivided, and each Assistant-resident 
has under him several Controlloors. The latter 
are of three classes, differing in rank and salary, a 
Controlloor of the third class being the lowest 
European civil government officer. Each Resident 
has also a secretary, who takes rank next to an 
Assistant-resident. An Assistant-resident merely 
acts as a police magistrate, and can only inflict 
petty punishments, such as confinement in the 
stocks, or twenty-five strokes of a rattan, or else as 
the organ through whom the orders of the Resident 
are transmitted to the Regent. In the towns of 
Samarang and Sourabaya, however, there are two 
Assistant-residents, one for the police, the other 
for the financial department. The Controlloors 
have only to inspect the cultivation of the land, 
assess it for the land-tax, look after the condition of 
the roads, bridges, etc., and report generally on the 
state of the district committed to their charge. 
Neither Controlloor nor Assistant-resident can of 
his own mere motion give orders to or assume autho- 
rity over the native chiefs. 

The native government officers are, first, a Regent, 
whose district is styled a Regency, which is gene- 
rally co-extensive with that of an Assistant-resident. 
A Regent has a secretary or deputy, called a Pati. 
Each regency is also divided into. districts, over. 
each of which is an officer called in some places 


CHAIN OF NATIVE OFFICERS. 173 


a Widono, in others Demang, who has likewise a 
secretary or deputy, called a Bukkel. The princi- 
ple of subdivision is still further carried out, and 
over the successively diminishing portions are offi- 
cers, whose title and rank are Arris, and his deputy 
a Bow Arris; Loora, and his deputy Patinghi. 
These last have only a few kampongs or villages 
under them, but each kampong has also its little 
chief, called Kapalla Kampong (head of the kam- 
pong). 

Rongo is the title given to an officer who, with 
the power of a Regent, governs a smaller and less 
important district than is usually given to a Regent, 
to whom his rank is considered next in order. 
These titles are those in use in the eastern part of 
the island : towards the west, similar offices go under 
different native titles, Neither is the series in all 
cases complete: sometimes the officer, whatever his 
title, who equals a Widono in rank and situation, 
has no lieutenant or bukkel, or even no arris under 
him. In this case he does their duty, superintending 
matters himself, instead of merely transmitting 
orders to his subordinates. 

In this way the whole population is, as it were, 
marshalled and arranged under a chain of officers, 
like an army. ‘The people all live in communities, 
every man being obliged to belong to and reside in 
one particular kampong, which is fenced in, is go- 
verned by its kapalla or head man, has its constable 
or police officer, called Kadjenaman, and is guarded 


174 APPOINTING NATIVE OFFICERS. 


at night by one or two sentinels, armed with spears, 
stationed at the gate. Each kapalla kampong is 
responsible for the good behaviour of his kampong 
to his next superior officer or loora of the district, 
to whom he makes his reports, and from whom he 
receives his orders, and who has four or five more 
kampongs under his superintendence, as the case 
may be. From him the chain of subordination pro- 
ceeds regularly up to the Regent, each officer being 
answerable for the district placed under him. All 
these native officers are appointed by the Governor 
in Council, the Residents not having the power of 
appointing any one above the degree of the head of 
a kampong or a native constable. When an office 
is vacant, however, the candidates send in written 
applications for it to the Resident of the district, who 
appends his own notes and recommendations to 
them, before he transmits them to the general go- 
vernment. The kapalla kampong is most commonly 
elected by the inhabitants of the kampong. When 
a village is composed of only one kampong, it is 
called a dasar; but when of more than one, it is 
commonly termed cota or town. Each Regency has 
also its panghulu or head priest, and its Head 
Jacksa and Jacksa, who have the management of the 
native police, and act as procurators-fiscal. There is 
also a native collector. and sub-collector of revenue. 

The Regent makes his reports to, and receives 
orders from the Resident of the district only, and no 
inferior European authority has any legal power to 


COURTS OF JUSTICE. 175 


give or enforce orders on any of the native authori- 
ties, not even the lowest. In the distant parts of 
the Residency the orders of the Resident are trans- 
mitted to the Regent, through the Assistant-resi- 
dent, but the latter officer can give no orders of 
his own, nor can he interfere directly as to the 
execution by the native authorities of those orders 
he transmits to them. As soon as he has communi- 
cated them to the Regent, they are left to flow on 
in the native channels, and the result is reported by 
the Controlloors and Assistant-resident to the Resi- 
dent himself. Each Controlloor, if I was informed 
correctly, has to keep a journal, a copy of which 
he transmits to the Assistant-resident of his district, 
and also to the general government at Batavia. 

All the government officers, both native and Eu- 
ropean, besides a regular salary, are allowed a 
certain per-centage on the produce raised in the 
district. This per-centage is calculated on the pro- 
duce of each Residency, and the whole is divided 
among the officers of that Residency on a scale 
according to their rank. 

The courts of justice are both native and Euro- 
pean. In the former, when held in the larger 
towns, the Assistant-resident presides, assisted by 
a Secretary and by the Regent, the head of the 
Chinese and the head of the Malays. All cases 
against or between Javanese, Chinese, Arabs, and 
Malays, are tried in these courts. In the remoter 
parts of the country, the native authority presides 


176 NATURE OF LAND TAX. 


in these courts, except in serious cases, for which 
there is a European circuit judge. Appeal from 
these courts, in important matters, lies to the High 
Court of Justice at Batavia. 

All the land is the property of Government, no 
native, whatever his rank, having any property in 
the soil. Each kampong, or community, has a cer- 
tain cultivatable district assigned to it in common, 
on which to raise the rice and other produce neces- 
sary for its support. For this it pays a land-tax, or 
rent, adjusted in the following manner. ‘The pro- 
duce is divided into five equal parts, one of which 
is supposed to pay the cost of cultivation and reap- 
ing, the remainder is equally divided between the 
tenants and the Government. Instead, however, of 
receiving the two-fifths in produce, the Government 
usually commute it for a money payment. Rice 
land is taken as the general standard ; a measure of 
land called a bouw, equal to 12 English acres, is sup- 
posed to produce five amats of paddy, or rice in the 
ear, each amat containing one hundred bundles. Each 
amat yields ten piculs of paddy, or five piculs of 
bras or white rice cleaned and husked ready for. 
cooking. ‘The amat of bras is considered to be 
worth six copper rupees on an average, therefore 
the rent or land-tax for a bouw is twelve copper 
rupees.* In case of a bad crop a reduction is gene- 
rally made till the rent is brought down to thé 


* This would be nearly 14s. English money, which would 
make about 10s. 6d. per English acre. 


TOLLS AT THE MARKET PLACES. 177 


regular proportion of two-fifths of the produce. In 
addition to this, every community is compelled, when 
directed by Government, to clear a certain quantity 
of land, and to plant and cultivate coffee, sugar-cane, 
tobacco, or whatever may be directed, and to deliver 
the produce to Government, at a certain fixed rate 
of payment, which is in fact the wages of the labour. 
At every pasar also, or market-place, tolls are de- 
manded from all sellers of any kind of article, 
whether they occupy a stall or not, and these tolls 
are farmed almost universally by Chinese, who are 
very oppressive and extortionate in their exaction. 
Similar tolls are collected in the same way at piers 
in the harbours of the coast, but I did not hear that 
they were taken on any roads or bridges, or at the 
entrances of towns. 

The above are the direct taxes in money or pro- 
duce, but the people have also to provide labour, 
and the use of horses and carts, and victuals for 
Government travellers. Each kampong, or commu- 
nity, in proportion to its population, provides so 
many coolies, and so many horses, &c. at the diffe- 
rent wissel-posts on the public roads. If these are 
required in the direct service of Government, or 
for the use of a Government officer travelling on 
duty, no payment is made, but if for the use of per- 
sons travelling by permission of Government, on 
their own concerns, there are certain fixed rates of 
payment. Every traveller, moreover, in places where 
_ there are no hotels, must be supplied with food by 
VOL. I. N 


178 INDIRECT TAXES. 


the districts he passes through, as we found in our 
own case. The Regent, or Widono of the district, 
commonly provides plate, glass, and table furniture, 
&c. as also tea or other foreign luxuries, but the dif- 
ferent villages under his rule supply fowls, rice, 
eggs, meat, and vegetables, and all other things 
produced in the country ; each kampong being 
made to contribute certain articles, according to its 
population. The indirect taxes, or duties, are nu- 
merous, and for most articles very heavy, especially 
on all foreign imports. Opium is taxed to an im- 
mense amount, the duty being always farmed by Chi- 
nese, and being put up to auction every three years. 
The most pernicious tax is that on salt. This article 
is made on the north coast of the island and on Ma- 
dura, and in the interior of the country is very 
expensive, although highly prized. We always 
found on our journey a greater difficulty in getting 
a pinch or two of dirty brown-looking salt than 
anything else we required, and even at the houses of 
Europeans of some rank in Sourabaya it was very 
sparingly supplied at table. 

The Javanese are all Mahometans, but by no 
means strict ones, the mosques are in general only 
to be known from the natives’ houses by having a 
roof with a double gable at each end. The priest 
can generally just manage to read the Koran, but 
that is often the whole amount of his knowledge of 
his religion; and I was told that they were by no 
means the most honest, or best part of the popula- 
tion. ‘They are paid by general voluntary contribu- 


_ DUTCH POLICY IN JAVA. 179 


tions, collected on the day of the Javanese new year, 
and by fees on marriages and divorces, which are 
commonly from one and a half rupees to three rupees 
each. It appears that divorce is almost as frequent 
as marriage ; divorce by mutual consent is perfectly 
easy, as also is the divorce of a wife by the husband, 
but for a woman to divorce her husband against his 
will it is requisite she should assign some adequate 
reason. 

I did not hear that the Dutch had used any en- 
deavours for the conversion of the Javanese to 
Christianity, or for their education in other matters, 
at all events no widely-spread, or earnestly enforced 
system had ever been adopted for such purposes. 
Their policy seems to have been simply to put their 
own Government in the place of the native one, as 
far as regards the receipt of the revenue, leaving 
the natives as much as possible in their original 
condition, to enjoy their own manners and customs, 
to be governed: by their own chiefs in almost the 
same despotic manner as formerly, but under the 
superintendence of the Hollanders, in order that the 
productions and consequent revenues of the island 
might be increased as much as possible. 

The native population of Java was stated by the 
last census to have amounted to nearly nine millions. 
In this case it has doubled since 1815, when under 
Sir S. Raffles, it was found to be 4,615,270, includ- 
ing Madura. It must be observed that the natives 
have always a direct interest in keeping the census 

N 2 


180 GOVERNMENT OF EUROPEANS. 


as low as possible, because much of the forced labour 
is imposed on each kampong in proportion to its 
population. 

The Europeans resident in Java are under as 
despotic a rule as are the natives. By an edict 
issued in 1834, no foreigner can be allowed to reside, 
except at Batavia, nor can stay there more than a 
year, except by permission given by the King of 
Holland, on petition supported by the approval of 
the Governor.* No person, not even when per- 
mitted to reside, can become a ‘“‘burgher of the 
island,” or acquire rights of citizenship in it, until 
after a residence of ten years. The Governor has 
it in his power to banish any troublesome subject 
from the island, without the intervention of a court 
of justice. All European, or white residents of 
whatever nation, and also all Malays, are obliged to 
serve a stated time in the militia, or schuyterei, 
and from April to September must turn out once or | 
twice a week to drill. Europeans above forty-five, 
or exempt on account of some trifling illness, are 
obliged to attend the fire department. So also are 
all Chinese. 


* So jealous is the Dutch Government of Java, and so desirous 
of secrecy and seclusion, that they will not allow of the appoint- 
ment even of consuls, or any other similar authorities belonging 
to any nation, not even at their principal ports of Batavia and 
Sourabaya. 

+ The Arabs, from some reason, (probably from their being 
the religious instructors of the Javanese, and therefore not en- 
tirely trustworthy, ) are exempt both from the duties of the militia 
and fire department. 


EUROPEAN COURTS OF JUSTICE. 181 


No one can travel without a passport, on which is 
stated where he is going, and by what route, and 
this must be regularly viséd and countersigned by 
the authorities of every place he passes through. 
If he should come to any place out of his own dis- 
trict, even with full permission, and reside there 
more than six weeks, he is sent for by the Assistant- 
resident, or other Government officer, to know what 
is the object of his stay, and why he does not return, 
and is ordered to return to his own residence by 
the first opportunity, unless he can give very satis- 
factory reasons for his remaining where, he is. I 
learnt this fact by an instance which came under my 
own knowledge in Sourabaya. 

There are European courts of justice at Batavia, 
Samarang, and Sourabaya, before which all cases 
against or between Europeans are tried. Each of 
these courts is composed of a president, four mem- 
bers, including the circuit judge, a griffier, or secre- 
tary, and a fiscal, or public prosecutor. There is no 
jury, but the prisoners are allowed counsel. 

Appeal lies from this court also in all cases above 
a certain amount to the High Court at Batavia, 
whose decision is final. All severe punishments for 
heavy misdemeanors, whether decreed by native or 
European courts, must be referred to the High Court 
for approval. This court has the right of mitigating, 
but not increasing these punishments. 

There is also an institution called the Orphan 
Chamber. This body takes charge of all bankrupt 
and intestate estates, both native and European. 


182 ARBITRARY EDICTS. 


The Chinese are allowed to enjoy their own laws 
with regard to marriage and succession to property. 

No European, or native, can acquire any private 
property in land, nor is there such a thing as private 
landed property, except in the case of an estate for- 
merly belonging to Sir Charles Forbes, and a few 
smaller properties, which were acquired under the 
English rule, between 1812 and 1816, and which 
have not been resumed. Permission to travel into 
the country is rarely granted, and to enter the 
native dominions an order from the Governor in 
council is necessary. Some of the officers of the 
Dutch navy, whom we met at Sourabaya; com- 
plained of the difficulty they found in getting per- 
mission to make even such an excursion as we had 
done. 

The most arbitrary and unjust edicts are some- 
times issued by the general government, as for in- 
stance, that by which the Bank of Java was rendered 
no longer liable to be compelled by law to pay in coin 
its own promissory notes. All freedom of the press 
is strictly prohibited. There is a Government 
gazette published at Sourabaya, but besides the 
Government edicts, it is only allowed to insert ad- 
vertisements. ‘The newspaper published at Batavia 
inserts articles of general news, but no political 
remarks. ‘They have a small scientific society in 
Batavia, but in Sourabaya there is nothing of the 
kind, nor any public library, or reading-room, unless 
the few magazines taken at the club called the 
Concordia constitute such. 


DOMESTIC SLAVERY. 183 


There are schools for Europeans, which I believe 
are supported by Government and a fever clergymen, 
at the principal places. 

Domestic slavery still exists, although the slave- 
trade is strictly prohibited, and all slaves are obliged 
to be registered. The slaves now possessed are 
either those formerly procured, or their children. 
Their number, however, is small, and rapidly dimi- 
nishing, as independent of those manumitted during 
the life of the owner, it is a frequent practice for 
him to leave them all free by will after his death. 
If he dies solvent, this immediately takes effect, if 
insolvent, however, the slaves remain in the power 
of his creditors, and can be sold for their benefit. 
All children born slaves still remain so till manu- 
mitted. 

Subordination among Government officers seems 
_ very strictly kept up, whether they are civil or mili- 
tary, and the discipline of the troops seemed very 
severe, corporal punishment being frequently in- 
flicted, and in one case, death, while we were at 
Sourabaya. 

All political discussion seems strictly avoided in 
society, and although I am not aware of the exist- 
ence of a paid secret police, or indeed of any Euro- 
pean police, there seemed to be a general dislike to 
speak of the internal government of the country. 
Anything resembling a European society is confined 
to the principal places on the north coast, everywhere 
in the interior the Europeans are found merely as 


184 LOW STANDARD OF PUBLIC MORALS. 


isolated Government officers, each confined to his 
allotted station, and each employed in constantly 
reporting to Government the actions of others. Such 
a state can be anything but favourable for the per- 
sons placed in it, and truth compels me to add, that 
I was creditably informed that its results were such 
as might be expected; that with some high and 
honourable exceptions, the whole frame of Govern- 
ment, from the lowest to the highest, was based om 
a system of espionage, and mingled with all the arts 
of petty intrigue and corruption. I was told that 
men who, under one administration had been de- 
graded and declared infamous, had, by a turn of the 
wheel, been again admitted, and raised to high and 
responsible offices. I was informed that even the 
late manager of the branch bank in Sourabaya, | 
although convicted of peculation and fraud, and 
sentenced to imprisonment for several years, was still | 
visited in gaol by former equals and associates, and 
was living there in luxury on the fruits of his 
knavery, and that when freed from imprisonment he 
would probably be again admitted into society. 
High honour and strict faith can be by no means an 
mvariable characteristic of the Government itself, if 
the commonly received and publicly reported ac- 
count be true, that the last war was brought to a 
conclusion in 1830, by an act of gross treachery on 
the part of the Dutch Commander-in-Chief, acting 
under government orders. He, under pretence of a 
conference, and after safe-conduct given, got posses- 


DEFECTS IN THE SYSTEM. 185 


sion of the person of the principal native chief, and 
treacherously kept him prisoner until he was 
banished to Amboyna. 

This and similar occurrences were said to have 
much shaken the faith of the Javanese in the word 
of their rulers, and I was told that both natives 
and Chinese would trust an European of any other 
nation with much more readiness, and to a far greater 
amount, than they would a Hollander. 

Some improvement, I was glad to learn, was now 
beginning to manifest itself in the general character 
of the persons concerned in the government of Java, 
but much of the old leaven was said to remain, and 
it was ascribed to the following defects in their sys- 
tem.—The controlloorship and subordinate offices 
are much underpaid, so that men of high caste of 
talent and character cannot be expected to take them, 
even with the prospect of promotion. In all offices, 
even the highest, the emoluments are not confined 
to direct salary or wages, but often in greater part 
arise from per centages on produce raised in the 
district, and by other indirect means; affording 
facilities for and offering temptations to fraud, or at 
least occupying the mind of the officer with endea- 
vours to increase his own profits rather than perform 
the duties of his station without fear, favour, or affec- 
tion. The secresy of all transactions, or at least their 
want of publicity, and the system of reporting all 
occurrences to superior authority, affords scope for, 
and gives a tendency to intrigue and artifice, and 


186 NUMEROUS EXCEPTIONS. 


lowers the tone of public and private morality and 
self-respect. | 

That these baneful influences should, in many 
cases, produce their natural results, is but to be ex- 
pected; at the same time I must say that, without 
being informed of their existence, I should not have 
been aware of them, and that all the Government 
officers with whom we came in personal contact, had 
every mark of being honourable and gentlemanly 
men; nor did we ever hear a whisper to their dis- 
paragement. It is probably in the more remote 
and isolated districts that the system produces its 
full effects. 

As I have before said, the raising a revenue seems 
to be the principal object of the Dutch government 
of Java. This revenue now amounts to the large total 
sum of fifty-five millions of guilders (4,750,000/.), of 
which, after deducting the whole of the expenses, 
there remains a clear surplus revenue of twenty-five 
millions of guilders, or about 2,084,000/., which is 
yearly transmitted to the credit of the Home Go- 
vernment. 

They seem latterly to have become aware that it 
is cheaper to raise a revenue by a certain amount of 
good government than by military force, and they 
have therefore attended in a greater degree than for- 
merly to the dispensation of justice among the people, 
and to their physical welldoing. They abstain from 
pushing their exactions to an intolerable degree, they 
forbearobtruding themselveson the people personally, 


RECENTLY ERECTED FORTRESSES. 187 


as gatherers of taxes or imposers of labour, but 
employ the native chiefs for that purpose. ‘To the 
principal of these they pay large salaries,* and allow 
considerable state, and much apparent power over 
their dependants and retainers. ‘lo guard, however, 
against any future outbreak, similar to that of 1826, 
which was with difficulty finally subdued in 1830, 
they have erected a chain of strong fortresses from 
Batavia through the heart of the country to Soura- 
baya. These fortresses are about forty or fifty 
miles apart, of considerable extent, and have been 
constructed with all the strength and refinement 
of modern military art. How far they might be 
successfully assailable by foreign invaders, I do not 
know, but certainly if they resemble the citadel of 
Sourabaya they are perfectly impregnable to the na- 
tive population. 

Whether such erections may be necessary for the 
future security of the Dutch Government in Java, 
I forbear to inquire, but no one, I think, who has 
visited the island, and seen anything of the natives, 
and who has read Crawfurd’s and Raffles’s books, 
would doubt that such fortresses would be quite 
unnecessary for a Government who really had the 
welfare of the people at heart, and sincerely endea- 
voured to conciliate and benefit them. Among 
so docile, amiable, and intelligent a people as 
the Javanese, gradual conversion to Christianity, 


* The salary of the Regent of Grisek, for instance, not one of 
the principal places, is £1200 per annum. 


188 - INDOLENCE OF JAVANESE. 


and to habits of industry and frugality, and the 
diffusion of considerable intellectual advancement, 
would be an easy task to a Government who really 
wished to adopt proper measures for such a result. 

The complaint now among all Europeans is that 
the Javanese peasantry will not work for wages, but 
only at the command of their native superiors. They 
say that if a man hada private estate, he could by no 
temptation of high wages procureany private workmen 
to cultivate it for him; that the Javanese obeys the 
orders of his chief and his officers at once, with the 
utmost alacrity, and whether he receive any remu- 
neration for it or not, but that without such order 
no inducement is sufficient to make him break 
through his natural indolence and love of ease. 
Under the present system this is no doubt true ; 
the Javanese has for ages been trained in habits 
of implicit obedience to his feudal superior; all 
his ideas, language, and daily actions, are me- 
delled and adapted to such a system; and no 
doubt the notion of independent action, independent 
existence, independent property and personal rights 
are as strange and unknown to his mind, as is the 
idea of colour to a blind man. Open the eyes of 
the blind man, however, emancipate the Javanese 
from their feudal* servitude, and wait for the 
result. ) 


* T use the term “ feudal” here as expressing the dependence 
of each man on a superior, and do not mean that a real feudal 
system, such as existed in Europe, is to be found in Java. 


| 
‘ 


SUGAR. CULTIVATION 189 


I would not advocate violent or sudden changes, 
except in principles of government: alterations in 
the details and matters of practice may be intro- 
duced as slowly as is thought advisable, but what 
would have been the condition of Java now had it 
continued under English rule, with Sir S. Raffles, 
or such men as he, or even inferior men acting on 
his principles, as governors ? 

I have already, at page 4, mentioned the peculiar 
system of sugar cultivation adopted in Java, but 
having received the following detailed notice re- 
specting it. from a gentleman well acquainted with 
the eastern part of the island, I submit it for the 
information of those who may be interested in the 
subject. 


In the Sourabaya Residency the different sugar mills that have 
contracts with Government have from 100 to 175 junks each. 


A junk contains : , 4 bouws 

A bouw ‘ ‘ 500 square roods 
A rood ; : . 12 Rhynland feet 
A Rhynland foot . 1.03 English feet. 


Therefore one bouw is rather more than 1# English acres.* 

The Government plant and take care of the canes; they com- 
mence planting generally in the month of July, and finish by 
the 15th September. The canes in this Residency are planted 
at 3 x 14 feet apart, but in Passarouan and Probolingo at 3 x 2. 
In Sourabaya one cane-shoot only is planted, in Passarouan and 
Probolingo they plant two transversely. 

In the month of May the canes are taxed as first, second, and 
third sorts. 


* Accurately, 1 bouw = 1.754 English acres. 


190 SUGAR CULTIVATION: 


The first sort calculated to produce 25 piculs* sugar per 
bouw ; the second, 20; the third, 15. 

The tax is 3} copper rupees per picul, thus calculated. If the 
sugar fabricant cannot agree with the Government servant ap- 
pointed to tax the canes, the matter is settled by arbitration. 
A bouw of good cane ought to give 8000 to 9000 bundles of 
25 canes each, and about 30 piculs of sugar ; very superior canes 
have given 35 to 40 piculs per bouw, and by using the vacuum 
process in the fabrication even 50 piculs have been obtained. 

Good canes are generally about eight or nine feet long, con- 
_ taining more saccharine matter than canes of a greater length. 
There are now only two kinds of cane planted in Java; Ist, the 
white cane; 2nd, the Japara cane. The former is generally 
planted in light, the latter in heavy soils; the latter flowers 
when ripe, but not the former. Otaheite cane was tried, but 
found not to answer. The canes are planted generally at a dis- 
tance of not more than three miles from the mill, but there are 
instances in which the canes are eight miles distant. This is 
only where the population is thin, or the ground in the vicinity 
poor. In most contracts the Government undertakes not to 
plant at a greater distance than three miles. 

In Sourabaya they plant canes one year, and rice the next, 
every year alternately. In Passarouan and Probolingo, however, 
they plant one year canes and two years rice, the ground not 
being so much impoverished by the latter mode as by the former. 
Rattooning canes has been altogether abandoned, not only be- 
cause the soil was impoverished by that process, but because the 
quantity of sugar obtained from rattooned canes was proved to 
be less than that from new shoots. 

In the Residencies of Passarouan and Probolingo the canes 
are planted a month earlier than in that of Sourabaya. This 
arises from the lands of Sourabaya being overflowed by the 
rivers, which prevents the early planting of the rice crop, and 
consequently retards its harvest, so that the paddy fields are not 
cleared so early as in the two other Residencies. 


* One picul = 136lbs. English. 


SUGAR CULTIVATION. 191 


The canes must be -cut and transported from the fields at the 
expense of the contractor, half a doit per bundle being paid by 
him for cutting the canes and forming them into bundles. The 
coolies, or workpeople, are supplied (2. e. compelled to work) by 
the Government. For transporting the canes from the field to 
the mill the sugar fabricant generally makes contracts with 
cartmen at the beginning of the year, paying them from 1} to 2 
doits* per bundle, according to distance. 

Coolies are supplied by Government both for cutting the canes 
and for the work in the mill: this is not obligatory on them by 
contract, but from the natural indolence of the Javanese great 
difficulty would be experienced in procuring work-people without 
the assistance of the Government.t Fifteen doits (23d English) 
is paid a daily labourer by fabricants who have old contracts, 
20 doits by those of later date. Daily coolies are obliged to 
work from six o'clock in the morning to six in the evening. 
For night-work they generally receive double wages. 

Mills have generally two sets of cylinders, and if well supplied 
with water (which is the only motive power used in Java), and 
with good method and management will take off 7000 or 8000 
bundles of canes in the twenty-four hours. 

Besides contracting for his carting, the fabricant makes ad- 
vances and closes contracts in January for baskets, pots, &c. 

In all the contracts with Government, advances are made to 
the fabricant in January, and a further advance in June, and 
after the whole crop has been delivered a final settlement takes 
place. 


* The doits mentioned in all agricultural transactions are 
copper doits of 120 to the silver guilder, which is valued at 20 
pence English. Therefore a doit — 4th of a penny sterling. 

+ The meaning of this is that the people are compelled to 
work by their rulers, native and Dutch, and to receive such 
wages as they may choose to order them. If not a system of 
slavery it is one of the most complete serfdom,—J. B. J. 


192 SUGAR CULTIVATION. 


The fabricant is obliged to deliver all the sugar he makes to 
the Government ; and pay at the rate of 33 rupees per picul for 
all that he delivers, as a tax or payment for the canes. 

If however, he deliver less than the quantity, which his canes 
were taxed as capable of producing, he has not only still to pay 
33 rupees upon the whole of that quantity, but a heavy fine 
besides. 

Government pay him according to agreement in the contract, 
and according to quality, for his sugar. The rates in the last 
contracts closed were 3 

12 copper rupees for ‘‘ superior white” called No. 18. 


10 es ** prey” No. 16. 
8 § ** brown” No. 12. 
6 “ for a lower quality. 


After the canes pass through the cylinders, the ‘ trash” is 
carried off and used for fuel. The flues of a mill must be badly 
constructed, when, besides the trash, firewood is also commonly 
required for “ cooking’? the sugar. The system of cooking in 
vacuo, has hitherto been rarely adopted, sugar being still gene- 
rally cooked on the old Chinese principle, in open pans. After 
the sugar is boiled to a certain consistency, it is poured into pots, 
containing 60 catties, and allowed to granulate for 5 or 6 days. 
It is then clayed:—this is performed in different ways, every 
fabricant following his own ideas. It is then turned out of the 
pots, on to the drying places, and after a few days exposure to 
the sun, which is generally sufficient, it is packed, and sent to 
the different sea-ports, to be delivered into the government 
stores. 

The molasses which runs from the pots on claying the sugar, 
is boiled in a separate set of pans, and the sugar derived from it 
is mixed with the cane sugar. 

A fabricant can never calculate exactly as to what the sugar he 
makes will cost him, as much depends on the quality of the cane 
and other circumstances. If for instance, while grinding, there 
should be much rain, he will have much trouble and expense in 
drying the sugar, the canes will be very watery, andthe ‘‘ trash” 


SUGAR CULTIVATION. 193 


not being sufficient to evaporate the water from the juice on 
boiling, he will have to use firewood which is very expensive. 

Still on an average, the expense or cost of sugar to the fabri- 
cant may be estimated as follows. 


Copper rup. 
Tax paid for planting the canes, per picul 3.50 
Expense of cutting, transporting, fabrication, 
packing, and delivering in Government stores 3.75 


Copper 7.25 

Now 7.25 copper rupees are 6.04 silver guilders, and as a picul 
is equal to 136 pounds English, the cost of the sugar per cwt. will 
be 4.98 guilders or 8s. 32d. sterling. This does not include inte- 
rest of money on the cost of the establishment, but to cover 
that 1 per cent will be an ample allowance. 

The present Governor finding that the doits were not of proper 
standard weight, has called them all in, and re-issued them at 
160 doits to the silver guilder, or guilder recepissen.* Of course 
in settlements with fabricants, they are paid at this rate, there- 
fore if a fabricant has to receive 1200 copper rupees, he is paid 
either 1600 doits, or 1000 recepissen, as he chooses. 

Neither sugar-cane nor any other produce can now be much 
increased in Java: the population being fully employed, and 
production of any kind can only be augmented in the same ratio, 
with the increase of population. The great increase of late 
years in the production of sugar and indigo, may be attributed 
to the cultivation of these articles being found more profitable 
than that of rice. Hence the rice-fields have been used for the 
planting of sugar and indigo, until the present crop of rice is 
barely sufficient to supply the native consumption. It must not 
however be lost sight of, that the mode of planting and more 
especially the working of the ground is much better understood 


* These guilder recepissen are a new paper money issued by 
the Government, not by the bank of Java. 


VOL. II. O 


194 SUGAR CULTIVATION. 


and attended to now than formerly. The per centage allowed 
to European civil servants, and native chiefs, has done a 
wonderful deal of good in that respect. In most instances, the 
same measurement of land produces one-third more sugar than 
it did ten years ago. The great secret is ploughing the ground 
well, which being done, with a rich alluvial soil like that of Java, 
no manure whatever is required, beyond that of the ashes derived 
from burning the stubble on the ground. As canes are now 
never rattooned, they are invariably pulled up by the roots, which 
are merely cleaned with a knife. 

The cultivation of sugar and coffee are perfectly independent 
of one another, as coffee cannot be planted to any advantage 
much below 1200 feet above the sea, and at that height the tem- 
perature and moisture are against the growth of the sugar-cane. 
Sugar and indigo are planted on the same description of ground, 
and as the cultivation of one at any time is decreased, that of 
the other may be increased. 


TABLE OF WEIGHTS. 
100 catties . = 1 picul. 


125 lbs. Dutch. 
136 lbs. English nearly. 


l 


1 Java picul 
125 lbs. Dutch 


30 piculs = one Sourabaya coyang. 
28 — = —Samarang do. 
27 — = — Batavia do. 


CHAPTER VII. 


LEAVE JAVA—PASS THE STRAIT OF BALI—UNABLE TO STEM 
THE CURRENT IN THE STRAIT OF LOMBOCK —~- DIRTY 
WEATHER — ENTER ALASS STRAIT — DRIFTED BY THE 
CURRENT—LAND AT SEGAR—BOUNDARY OF TWO DESCRIP- 
TIONS OF COUNTRY—RETURN TO ALASS STRAIT-——-LAND AT 
PEJAR—PROCURE REFRESHMENTS—CIiVIL TREATMENT OF 
THE PEOPLE—INFORMATION CONCERNING THE SASSACKS— 
DUTCH EXPEDITION AGAINST BALI—FRIENDLY TREATMENT 
OF OUR BOATS CREW AT LABOAJEE—SEE MOUNT TUM- 
BORO—BEAUTIFUL VIEW OF LOMBOCK PEAK. 


We came out of the strait of Madura on the 
morning of January 12th, 1845, after having stuck 
in the mud for about an hour, till the tide rose high 
enough to carry us out. We then dismissed the 
pilot, and intended to pass into the Indian Ocean 
through the strait of Bali. In the afternoon it 
came on to blow hard, with rain, thunder, lightning, 
and thick weather, so that we were driven past Bali 
strait during the night, without being able to enter 
or discern it. 

We then tried the strait of Lombock, the next 
opening towards the east, which we entered with a 
fresh breeze at 1 p.m. on January 13th. We 
rounded the eastern end of the island of Bali pretty 
closely, and could then see the foot and lower slopes 

o 2 


196 STRAIT OF LOMBOCK. 


of the peak or mountain of Carang Assam, which 
seemed partially cultivated, having irrigated rice- 
fields and cottages upon it, and the woods and 
scenery reminded us of the interior of Java. About 
4 p.M. we were in the centre of the strait, with 
the island of Banditti a few miles a-head, when the 
wind died away, and the current began to set us 
back to the north. 

Jan. 14.—It was quite calm this morning, and 
we were rapidly drifted to the north by the cur- 
rent, so that, in spite of some light variable airs 
which sprung up and enabled us to steer southwards, 
we were fairly set out of the strait to the north- 
wards, and at 3 p.m. getting a westerly breeze, we 
ran on for Alass strait. The weather again came 
on thick and squally at night. 

Jan. 15.-— Blowing hard from the north-west, 
with rain and thick weather, so that we could see 
no land, although the mountains of Lombock were 
only a few miles to the southward of us. We ac- 
cordingly passed the entrance of Alass strait 
without perceiving it, and at nine o’clock suddenly 
made the Timor Yung Islands, on the Sumbawa 
shore, right -a-head and close to. The ship was 
brought to the wind, and we stood off N.E.; but 
on that tack we could not weather another islet, 
called Flat Island, so that we were obliged to spend 
the afternoon and night in beating to windward, to 
get an offing, with squally, dark, and uncertain 
weather. 


Monee. 
, > 


ALASS STRAIT. 197 


Jan. 16.—The same weather continued, but 
we fetched into the mouth of Alass strait, about 
four miles to windward of the Timor Yung Islands, 
and ran up along them. As soon as we had fairly 
entered the strait, the weather improved very 
much, but at the same time the wind fell and it 
was soon nearly calm. It was then a really curious 
sight to observe the ship drifting to the northward 
with the current, or exactly contrary to her apparent 
course. <A gentle breeze still kept our sails occasion- 
ally full and gave us steerage way through the water, 
so that with our head to the southward, we appeared 
to be slowly moving in that direction. On looking 
at the low Timor Yung Islands on our port hand, 
however, and comparing them with the high land 
of Sumbawa beyond, the retrograde motion of the 
ship was found to be so rapid as to produce the 
most singular effect. It looked exactly as if the 
islands were drifting rapidly past us, and as the 
stern movement of the ship through the air caused 
the sails to be still further bellied out, as if a pretty 
fair breeze was blowing, the aspect of things, as we 
looked from the sails to the land and the apparently 
still water alongside, was not a little bewildering. I 
could easily believe an ignorant and superstitious 
person would have set the whole down to enchant- 
ment. 

All the boats were now lowered to tow us towards 
the western side of the strait, where the current is 
much weaker, but they had hardly commenced 


198 SINGULAR CURRENTS. 


before a sudden squall urged the ship ahead, oblig- 
ing the boats hastily to cast off, and in doing this 
the dingy was capsized. No harm, however, oc- 
curred, except the loss of an oar or two; but just 
as the last man was picked up out of the water, a 
large shark rose alongside the boats. Having hove 
to and secured our boats again, we were now ena- 
bled to stand over from the Sumbawa shore to that 
of Lombock, and at seven o’clock shortened sail 
and came to an anchor in seven fathoms, about a 
mile from the shore, and nearly two south of a place 
called in the charts Segar. Here we found the tide 
setting to the southward at the rate of about a mile 
per hour, whereas on the eastern side of the strait, 
and over the whole of the strait of Lombock, a 
constant current set to the northward at the rate of 
four or five miles per hour. 

Jan. 17.—This morning it was fine and calm. 
Captain Blackwood wishing to land to get sights 
for the chronometers, I accompanied him and Mr. 
Walsh in the first gig. Nearly opposite to the ship 


was a low, rocky, but green hill rising out of the ~ 


woods, with some kind of building on its summit. 
We attempted to land on the beach a little north of 
this, notwithstanding the surf, but just as we touched 
the shore a higher wave than usual rolled in and 
half filled the boat, and nearly swamped and carried 
her off. Mr. Walsh with the chronometer, and I[ 
with my gun, got ashore without our respective 
burdens getting wet; and [reathy, the coxswain, 


LAND AT SEGAR. 199 


was left in the surf when all hands had succeeded in 
righting and shoving off the boat; so we three 
walked along the beach, while Captain Blackwood 
went on in the gig to look for an opening, which was 
vaguely marked in the chart, leading into a lagoon 
to the northward. In about half a mile we reached 
this lagoon, and found it a large circular basin one 
or two miles wide, with a very considerable village 
or town at its upper extremity, and six or eight 
large prahus, one apparently of 100 tons burthen at 
least, and several smaller craft, at anchor. This 
lagoon is separated from the sea by a low neck of 
woody land, at one point not more than fifty yards 
wide, and is accessible by a narrow channel not more 
than 100 yards across. Several reefs and shoals 
lie off the mouth of this channel to the northward, 
but we several times got a cast of five fathoms 
among them, and the same depth was found in the 
narrowest part of the entrance to the lagoon, so that 
it is probable a winding channel of that depth might 
be found leading from the sea into the lagoon. The 
flat land between the lagoon and the sea, after being 
contracted to fifty yards, opened to a third of a mile 
in width, and contained some fields and cocoa-nut 
plantations, and a cottage or two. As we walked 
along it a beautiful deer started out of a bush, and 
though my gun was not loaded with ball, I could 
not resist the temptation of firing at it, but did not 
bring it down. At the report of the gun a herd of 
about twenty came trotting out of a thicket hard by. 


200 FORM OF HOUSES. 


They were of a very good size and beautiful appear- 
ance, and I regretted I had not known of their 
being there before I fired, when we might have 


occupied the narrow neck of land with the boat’s 


crew, and had some excellent sport. 

As soon as we had joined Captain Blackwood, 
whom we found at the entrance of the lagoon, and 
he had finished his observations, we set off in chase, 
but though we saw six we did not succeed in getting 
within reach of one. We then crossed the entrance 
to two or three houses on the opposite side, where 
we bought some cocoa-nuts. These houses were 
raised about five feet above the ground, upon strong 
posts, and were accessible by steps to a door in 
front. ‘They seemed to consist of one long room, 
with a common passage down one side next the 
wall, the remainder being divided into compartments 
or stalls as it were, by bamboo screens. The houses 
were full of women and children, but as they did 
not seem willing for us to enter, we did not press it. 
The men were busy, some in building a boat, others 
in preparing chunam, and others in pounding rice. 
They said they were Bugis, and that the name of 
the place was Rajah Bali, or else Lombock, that the 
names of the country and of that place were the 
same, and that the chief of the district was a Bugis. 
They were anxious to sell us fowls and other refresh- 
ments, and behaved very civilly. One man asked 
who we were and where we came from, and on our 
telling him, he immediately pointed to his prahu, 


: 
: 


i i a ie Be 


ct ae 


CHARACTER OF BUGIS. 201 


and said he was lately from Sourabaya, and asked 
where the schooner was, meaning the Bramble. 
About a hundred yards farther on, we saw several 
men digging, and on going up to them found they 
were filling upa grave. They did not seem at all 
serious about it, laughing and chatting among 
themselves, and cheerfully informed us a man was 
dead. ‘They were a bold and sturdy-looking race 
of men, like most of the Bugis I have seen, with 
frank and independent manners. ‘These people are 
now the most enterprising race of the Archipelago, 
the best and most extensive navigators, traversing 
in their prahus all the seas from Sumatra to New 
Guinea, and even to the gulf of Carpentaria. 
Although in some cases addicted to piracy, they 
are, from all I have heard of them, the best race 
for Europeans to engage as sailors, or as settlers in 
any new colony, or for similar services. Courage 
and hardihood are the qualities most wanted by 
the Malay races in general, and wherever they 
exist, however irregularly they may have been 
exercised, the people will be found to be ultimately 
the most valuable, whether as subjects, as servants, 
or companions. 

Crawfurd, in his account of the Eastern Archi- 
pelago, makes the Strait of Alass the boundary of 
the principal of those races, into which he sub- 
divides the Malay nations, that, namely, which 
inhabits Sumatra, Java, Bali, and Lombock. We 
were now aware that it is also the boundary of a 


202 DIFFERENT KINDS OF COUNTRY. 


peculiar kind of configuration of country. Java, 
Bali, and Lombock consist of sloping plains, from 
which rise single detached conical mountains, or 
groups of such mountains more or less thickly clus- 
tered. The sea shore of these islands is almost 
invariably low and flat. Sumbawa, on the contrary, 
rises into broad rugged hills, directly from the sea, 
and seems to consist principally of high land, tra- 
versed by narrow valleys and ravines, and similar 
features characterised Sandalwood Island and Timor 
and the other islands we had seen to the eastward. 
How little, however, is really known of all these 
magnificent islands, and how much better do they 
deserve exploration than many parts of the earth 
that receive it. , | 

In June, 1845, we again visited Alass strait, on 
our way from Port Essington to Singapore, with the 
wrecked crews and passengers of the Hyderabad 
and Coringa packet. On this occasion we entered 
the southern end of Alass strait at night, and 
anchored on the Lombock shore, near a bight where 
there is a place called in the chart Pejar. At day- 
light the next morning we saw a ship at anchor a 
few miles to the northward, where we concluded Bali 
Laboajee to be situated, and some prahus in the 
bight to the southward, which+we concluded was 
Pejar. ‘Two boats were manned, and one sent to 
each place for the purpose of procuring refresh- 
ments, of which both ourselves and passengers 
were greatly in need. Messrs. Ince, Evans, Bell, 


fi eee 
fies Ae 
Rees yo. 
b wk 


LAND AT PEJAR. 203 


and M‘Grath went to Laboajee; Captain Blackwood, 
accompanied by Mr. Macgillivray and myself, to 
Pejar. We were honoured also by the company of 
the three Misses Betts and Lieut. Bloomfield, the 
former of whom were wrecked with their mother 
and brother in the Hyderabad, and the latter in the 
Coringa packet. We had heard of an Englishman 
residing somewhere on Lombock, ‘but whereabouts 
we did not know. ‘The coast-line here seemed to 
be a straight beach of black sand, on which a surf 
was rolling, and occasionally breaking heavily 
against detached crags of dark rock. On nearing 
one of the prahus in the little bay we inquired 
whether an Englishman lived near, to which they 
answered in the affirmative, and pointed to a small 
whitewashed house and a flag-staff at the back of 
the beach. Near this we found a small creek, in 
which were many canoes, and proceeding up this 


' we landed with great facility in front of the house. 


We found awaiting us an English gentleman of the 
name of Hurder. He was an agent of Mr. King’s, 
the English merchant who lives at Ampanan the 
capital of the island, which is situated on its western 
side, on the shore of Lombock strait. He received 
us hospitably, although his house was only a tem- 
porary habitation, used principally asa store. He 
immediately despatched messengers to collect fowls, 
ducks, and what fruits and vegetables could be pro- 
cured. Hesaid this would require some hours, but 
that by giving notice overnight, had we been time 


* 


204 HOUSES AND INHABITANTS. 


enough, almost any quantity of poultry, buffaloes, 
fruit, and vegetables, could have been procured in 
the morning. We walked through the kampong, 
and were everywhere most kindly received by the 
people. ‘They seemed especially delighted to see 
the English ladies, and invited us to their houses. 
These were all built on posts about six feet high, 
which were sometimes left open, but at others fenced 
round, and used either for a fowl-pen, or rice-store. 
Steps, or a ladder, led up to the front door. The 
houses were almost entirely constructed of bamboo, 
and were equally light, strong, and cool. The floor 
was covered with clean mats, the apartments sepa- 
rated by curtains or screens of split bamboo, and 
each had a window and shutter. Overhead were 
racks, in which we saw spears, muskets, and agri- 
cultural and fishing implements. 

The women were engaged either in weaving or 
making pastry, and they were all neat, clean, and 
good-humoured. Macgillivray and I afterwards 
came, when by ourselves, on a large and commodi- 
ous house, of which the owners were Bugis. On 
asking permission to enter, one of the men imme- 
diately shewed us up stairs, and introduced us to 
the females of the family. They were very busy 
making cakes of rice-flour, sugar, andeggs. They 
cut them into stars and flower-shaped patterns, and 
then handed them to an old woman, who was squat- 
ting near a small stove, over which she fryed them 
in a shallow vessel of cocoa-nut oil. They seemed 


* 


F 

‘ 
| 
' 

’ 


ADVANTAGES OF COURTESY. 205 


pleased by our visit, and especially so by treating 
them as equals, and addressing them in terms of 
courtesy and politeness.* We also took the ladies 
aboard a prahu, which was lying by the beach. We 
were struck with the exact resemblance of its upper 
part to their shore habitations. It was, in fact, just 
like one of their houses, only lower in its propor- 
tions, and standing on shorter posts, built on a boat 
instedd of on the ground. A ledge of bamboo out- 
‘side this, and projecting over the gunwale of the 
boat, formed the place for the rowers, and a trian- 
gular mast forward served for their sail. The boat 
was strong and well-shaped. This prahu came from 
Banda. | 

We found there were three villages hereabouts : 
one called Pejar, at the head of the creek, which 
was nearly dry at low water; the one we were at, 
called Tanjong Luar, or ‘ Outer Point ;” and 
another on the other side of the creek and a little 
farther up the bay, the name of which I forget, but 
I think it was Pabahar. The ground around Tan- 
jong Luar was dry, brown, and barren-looking: it 
seemed to consist entirely of volcanic sand and 
ashes, with pieces of pumice. All these were said 


* Nothing more speedily wins the heart of the people of 
Malay race, than urbane and courteous treatment, and nothing 
is more contrary to their own customs and conduct, and more 
offensive to their feelings, than the brusqueness, or even abuse, 
with which they are too often treated by Europeans. ‘‘ Suaviter 
in modo, fortiter in re,” is the very maxim to adopt with them. 


206 THE SASSACKS. 


to have fallen some years ago, during a great erup- 
tion of a volcano in Sumbawa. ‘This was doubtless 
the great eruption of Mount Tumboro, in 1815, 
described by Sir S. Raffles and quoted by Mr. Lyell. 
There was a scarcity of fresh water, as there had 
been no rain for two months. ‘This part of the 
island is evidently too far from the great mountain 
on its northern side, the grand condenser of the 
moisture of the south-east trade-wind. Perpetual 
streams are said to run over the greater part of the 
island, from the foot of this mountain mass. _ 
From Mr. Hurder I procured the following scraps 
of information, which I give as I received it, pre- 
mising that he had only been twelve months resident 
on the island, and had not visited the interior. 
Lombock is inhabited by a people who call them- 
selves Sassacks,* and speak the Sassack language, 
which differs a good deal from the common Malay. 
Their number is probably 150 or 200,000. The 
Sassacks are Mahomedans. Some years ago they 
were invaded and conquered by the people of Bali, 
who are Hindoos in religion. The present ruler of 
Lombock is a Balinese. ‘There were, a short time 
ago, two Rajahs of Lombock; there is now only 
one, who resides at Mataram, near Ampanam. The 


* Crawfurd says that Sassack is the true Malay name for 
Lombock, that it means ‘‘ a raft,’’ to which the island was sup- 
posed to bear a resemblance in form. 

+ According to other accounts, there are ten times that number, 
or two millions of people, in Lombock. 


a 


ee Cone. 


ee 


DUTCH COMMERCIAL TREATIES. 207 


titles of the two ranks of nobility next to the Rajah 
are, first Goosti; second, Dewar. The head of a 
village is called “ Dayen.”’ In their habits and 
customs and respect to superiors, the people pre- 
cisely resemble the Javanese. The Rajah of Lom- 
bock is independent. 

Some short time ago, the Dutch East India Go- 
vernment sent a commissioner in a man-of-war to 
Lombock, to persuade the Rajahs(of whom there were 
then two) to enter into a commercial treaty. Chiefly 
by the advice of Mr. King, the Rajahs declined this 
offer : they said they wished their trade to be per- 
fectly free to every one; that the Dutch were at 
liberty to come and trade if they chose, but they 
should certainly enter into no treaty to exclude the 
English, the Americans, or other nations. The 
same commissioner went also to Bali, the Princes of 
which island were persuaded to enter into the treaty. 
When, however, they fully understood its nature, 
that it was intended to bind them to exclusive com- 
merce with the Dutch, they repudiated it, and 
denied that they had intended any thing of the kind. 
For this offence the Dutch were now fitting out 
an armament against Bali, which they intended 
shortly to attack.* 


* I confess I had at the time some doubts as to the correctness 
of this information, but time has proved it true. It is at all 
events true that the Dutch have attacked Bali and defeated the 
natives, and destroyed one of their towns. After reading their 
published proclamation as to the cause of this war, I could find 


208 INTERIOR OF LOMBOCK. 


There is a good road across the island of Lom- 
bock, from one strait to the other. It can be 
easily traversed on horseback in two days. 

The interior is well cultivated, rice being the 
principal production. Of this not less than 20,000 
tons were expected to be exported from Lombock 
during the present year (1845). Many Hindoo 
Balinese were scattered over the island, as not fewer 
than eight widows were to be burnt in the neigh- 
bourhood of Pejar next week. 

Deer, wild pigs, and jungle-fowl abound in the 
island, but there are no tigers. The Dutch Resident 
at Bima, in the island of Sumbawa, is a native, 
and the Dutch have no establishment on any of the 
islands to the eastward of Lombock, till we come to 
Coupang, in the island of ‘Timor. 

The bight or small bay of Pejar has very good 
anchorage and shelter for shipping, as there is. seven 
fathoms water in a part quite protected from the 
south-east trade-wind. There are some shoals, how- 
ever, near the land, which must be looked out for on 
entering. ‘The landing is as good as can be wished, 


and the refreshments abundant and cheap, except . 


fresh water, which must be got from Bali Laboajee. 
We took off with us five dozen ducks, five dozen 
fowls, and two horse loads of plantains, pumpkins, and 


nothing to contradict the belief that the real cause was that pre- 
viously assigned to me by Mr. Hurder. The most potent published 
cause was an instance of disrespect to a Dutch officer from some 
of the Balinese, or some such trifling matter. | 


1 6 Cee 
Pe > 


BALI LABOAJEE. 209 


cucumbers, for all which we paid fourteen dollars, 
or about £3. 17s. 

Mr. Hurder told us he had known one instance of 
an ‘ amok” (running a muck) at Tanjong Luar, 
his servant having shot a man a few weeks ago, who 
was rushing to attack him, after wounding one or two 
others. He did not speak so highly of the people 
as they appeared to me to deserve, but as he lives 
here alone, quite unprotected, was in a constant 
state of hard bargaining with them, and seemed to 
treat them rather haughtily and with some haste of 
temper, they cannot be otherwise than a peaceably 
disposed and honest race, or his life or property 
would not be safe. 

On dropping down to Labdajee, we picked up our 
other boat, the crew of which had been equally well 
treated, and equally successful with ourselves. The 
country here was far more fertile and better watered 
than that around Pejar. The vessel we saw at 
anchor was an American whaler, completing her 
water from a stream that ran out over the beach. 
Her master was very civil to our officers, and allowed 
them to purchase the provisions that had been 
collected for himself, as he was going to stay a day 
or two longer. 

On shore they found the head man of the village 
remarkably attentive to them, and evidently at- 
tracted by their gold and silver coin. He spoke a 
little English, and transacted all their business for 
them, paying each man in Chinese ‘ cash,” for the 

VOL. Il. p 


210 FIELD FOR A TRAVELLER. 


few fowls or other things he brought, and then 
receiving payment himself for the whole at once. 
He provided both officers and men with an excellent 
dinner, and seemed anxious to please them in all 
respects. At parting, he begged very hard for the 
boat’s ensign, saying he wished much for an English 
flag to hoist at his own house. ‘This however, of 
course could not be given him. He sent word that 
if more things were required, and we would anchor 
and fire a gun, the beach should next morning be 
crowded with people, bringing in buffaloes, poultry, 
and vegetables from the country. The prices fixed 
were 1 dollar a dozen for fowls, 2 dollars a dozen 
for ducks, 2 for a bullock, &c. Cloth and muskets 
would eagerly be taken in exchange, the latter esti- 
mated at 5 dollars a piece. 

To a man fond of field sports and a wild life, 
speaking Malay, and quick at catching up other 
dialects, of a frank and courteous demeanour, and 
capable of adapting himself to the habits of the 
people, what a delightful field for travelling, or for 
a temporary residence, might be found in these 
islands. ‘To a botanist or zoologist, their interiors 
are almost virgin ground, and though their fauna 
and flora would no doubt greatly resemble those of 
Java, yet there would be much also peculiar to 
themselves and new to science. To the geologist 
they are almost equally attractive in their great 
tertiary formations, mingled with volcanic pheno- 
mena developed on so grand a scale. ‘There would 


PEAK OF LOMBOCK. A111 


be neither difficulty nor danger in the enterprise to 
such a man as I have mentioned. His way would 
be first of all, to present himself to the Rajah or 
chief authority of the country, and propitiate his 
favour. This would cost him a few showy presents 
of English arms or cutlery, and a brace of pistols 
or something of that sort now and then presented 
to the inferior chiefs. He would then have the 
whole country open to him, and might live and travel 
at a very trifling cost. In the case of Lombock Mr. 
King of Ampanam could at once by his good word 
pass him through the island. 

June 26.—At daylight in the morning, we found 
ourselves clear of Atlass Strait, with the Peak of 
Lombock to the south-west of us, its summit 24 
miles distant. In the east we could see Mount 
Tumboro at a much greater distance. It did not 
seem very lofty, and shewed like a great flat-topped 
mass without any cone or peak. Several mountains 
to the southward of it, in the interior of Sumbawa, 
seemed much loftier. The atmosphere was singu- 
larly clear and transparent, and as the sun rose we 
had a magnificent view of the whole mountain of 
Lombock Peak. ‘The level beams of the sun tinged 
all the crags and ridges of the lower mass, bringing 
out in bright relief all the wrinkles, folds, and cor- 
rugations with which its sides were furrowed, and 
lit up the summit cone with a rich glow, as if it 
shone by its own light. All the valleys and ravines 


of the lower mass were clothed with dark woods, 
peg 


212 HEIGHT OF THE PEAK. 


which mantled also round the base of the cone, and 
seemed to struggle up it in broken lines, marking the 
slight hollows in its sides. ‘The upper part of the 
cone, as well the sharp knife-edged ridges and the 
peaks and mounds of the lower mass were bare and 
brown, with here and there a crest of pine-like 
trees, no doubt the casuarina which we had seen in 
Java. There were no lava streams visible, either 
on the sides of the cone or below, they having no 
doubt long been covered up by dust and ashes, as in 
the volcanoes of Java. 

Mr. Evans measured a base this morning, with 
the patent log, under very favourable circumstances, 
and made the height of the mountain, from the 
mean of four closely agreeing observations 11,400 
feet. In the Dutch Batavian Almanack, its height 
is given as 10,800 Dutch, or 11,134 English feet. 
It is therefore lower than the Peak of Teneriffe by 
nearly 1000 feet, but about that much higher than 
Etna. It exceeds the Peak of Teneriffe in majesty 
of appearance, when viewed from the north side, 
as it seems to rise more abruptly from the sea, while 
on the south side it rises from a comparatively low 
and level country, and then exceeds Teneriffe in 
beauty still more than in nobleness of aspect. 


CHAPTER VIII. 


ISLANDS OF KANGALANG AND LUBECK-—BANCA-~SINGAPORE 
—MALACCA — PLEASANT ASPECT — GOOD CHARACTER OF 
PEOPLE—TIN MINES—BOUKIT TIMAH—GEOLOGICAL OB- 
SERVATIONS ON MALACCA AND SINGAPORE — STRAIT OF 
SUNDA — ANJER — GEOLOGICAL SKETCH OF THE INDIAN 
ARCHIPELAGO—CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS ON THE CHA- 
RACTER AND CAPABILITIES OF THE MALAY NATIONS. 


In June, 1845, on our way from the Strait of 
Alass to Singapore, we passed by several small islands. 
The first of these, Kangalang Island, which we 
passed on the 27th, had a very fertile and pleasant 
aspect. It had a range of low hills on the northern 
side, which ran in an easterly and westerly direction, 
and appeared similar to the low east and west ranges 
of the island of Madura. Lubeck, on the contrary, 
somewhat farther to the northward, seemed to con- 
sist of a rough serrated mass of hills rising full 
2000 feet above the sea. As we passed through 
the Strait of Banca, I could distinctly perceive that 
several of the rocky promontories which rise on the 
shore of the island of Banca were composed of 
granite, and I believe that all the abrupt hills rising 
from that island are of the same rock, with sands 
and other soft incoherent materials forming the low 
grounds. [t is from the washing of these sands that 


Q14 ANCHOR AT SINGAPORE. 


the tin is procured, for which Banca is so famous. 
The Sumatra shore here is one great fiat, bordered 
by mangrove swamps, and reminded us of the aspect 
of the shores of New Guinea. 

On July 5th we anchored at Singapore. The 
shores of the strait, from Pedra Branca and Point. 
Romania, which are themselves made of granite, 
are composed of a succession of rocky headlands, 
all of which seemed to be granite, and fiat spaces, 
apparently formed of sand, A dense jungle of wood 


covered the whole, forming pleasing, but. by no — 


means striking scenery. We passed two large 
Chinese junks on their way to China. ‘Their gro- 
tesqueness, when under sail, is greater even than 
would be expected, from the common engravings of 
them: they reminded me of the outré figures one 
meets in old books of European shipping, as it 
existed in the time of the Conquest or the Crusades. 

Of Singapore itself, it is almost needless to speak. 
I] was struck with the size, importance, and evident 
wealth of a place some years younger than myself, 
and amused with its varied population. Of its 
50,000 inhabitants, more than 20,000 are Chinese 
of the lowest rank ; the rest of the population is a 
motley mixture, the most prominent of which is a 
race called Chulias, from the coast of Madras. I 
was surprised at the great difference in aspect be- 
tween these, who act mostly as messengers and 
carriage and horse-keepers, and the Sepoy soldiers. 
The latter were frequently a noble looking set of 


\ r ae av A a 
PF eee a Oe eT ee ee ee ee 


we Teer 
uo % 


r 


ON WADE IRIVER SINGAPORE. 


PROCEED TO MALACCA. 215 


men, and although sometimes quite black, their 
features would have been considered singularly 
handsome, even in an European. 

We had now only one day to look at Singapore, 
when we went on to join the Admiral, Sir T. Coch- 
rane, and the Chinese squadron, at Malacca. 

Malacca always seemed to me one of those old 
places that, having a kind of half-fabulous antiquity 
about them—a name and a glory long since faded— 
are peculiarly attractive to the imagination. I was 
delighted at the opportunity of being able to substi- 
tute a real image for the shadowy one that had 
glimmered in my mind ever since, as a boy, I had 
read of Malacca as the Queen of the East, in the 
narratives of the older voyagers. 

Down the centre of the southern part of the 
Malay peninsula, there runs, not a continuous range, 
but a number of detached hills or groups of moun- 
tains. These have a bold and striking form, and 
look like hills of granite. The loftiest is Gonung 
Leadang, or Mount Ophir, which is said to be about 
5000 feet high. Around these, and stretching from 
them to the coast, is a low and generally level coun- 
try, here and there broken by small rocky eminences. 
Just south of Malacca are a few islands, called the 
Water Islands, which are composed of a very hand- 
some grey granite. 

Malacca, like all these tropical towns, makes little 
show from the sea. A shallow little brook gives 
access to canoes, and at high water to boats of a 


216 OLD BUILDINGS. 


larger burden. Just south of this is a round emi- 
nence, some 200 feet in height, on the top of which 
are the ruins of the old Portuguese stone church, 
in front of which is now a signal station and 
light-house. Round the foot of this hill the ruins 
of old fortifications may be traced, of which the 
sally-port yet remains entire, and is picturesquely 
covered with ivy. On the opposite side of the hill 
is a more modern erection, the old Dutch Stadthouse, 
built of brick with gables ornamented by stone, in 
the quaint but substantial style of the old Dutch 
architecture. Open spaces of grass shaded by fine 
old trees, with European houses around them of a 
respectable size and antiquity, and tolerably spacious 
cantonments for the Sepoy troops, form the remain- 
der of this part of the town, which is surrounded by 
several streets and lanes of native houses, inhabited 
principally by Malays. Crossing the river by a 
wooden bridge, we found a number of narrow streets 
lined with workshops and stores, in-which are many 
Malays, but more Chinese, working with their usual 
industry. A few European houses and stores are 
also to be found here, and many Chinese houses of 
the better class, ornamented with all the grotesque 
carving, painting, and gilding in which that people 
delight. Good roads lead along shore, both north 
and south of the town, lined with pleasant country 
houses, both native and European, and on the north 
side are the buildings of the college. Groves and 
avenues of lofty and beautiful trees, and gardens full 


PLEASANT ASPECT. . Q17 


of fruits and flowers, run in every direction along 
the roads, while the lanes round the outskirts of the 
town are perfect avenues of cocoa-nut trees and 
other palms, affording the most grateful shade. 
Several very fair roads also run in different direc- 
tions for some distance into the country. 
Altogether | was far more pleased with the aspect 
of Malacca than that of Singapore. Singapore looks 
like one of our spick and span new colonial towns 
dropped by some accident into the tropics, where it 
is totally out of place. The trees have been most 
injudiciously cleared away, leaving bare white 
houses and dusty roads gleaming in the sun. 
Malacca. on the contrary, seems to be the natural 
growth of the country, a native town just suffi- 
ciently elevated by the mixture of European charac- 
ter, without losing its own. Its houses seem to 
have grown up under the trees that shelter them, 
and its narrow shadowy alleys and green lanes form 
a most delightful contrast with the glaring streets 
of Singapore. To a stranger like myself unem- 
ployed in business, the very air of indolence and 
contentment that Malacca wears is far preferable to 
the stir and bustle of its rival. This character 
seems fully appreciated by its inhabitants, as on my 
asking a native boatman one day, which he liked 
best, he said he had been at Singapore, but did not 
like it at all; adding in his own language, ‘‘ every- 
body was running here, running there, and doing 


218 GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE. 


something all the day long, and there was too much 
noise.” 

I walked two or three miles out of the town, in 
different directions, mingling as much as possible 
with the inhabitants. They seemed at first rather 
shy of strangers, but were won directly by a few 
kind words. The females seemed to keep them- 
selves more secluded than in Java. ‘The presence 
of the squadron however, was no doubt in some 
measure the cause of this, as they complained much 
of the sailors, who as they told me came ashore 
and got drunk, and forced themselves into the houses. 
When alone I was every where received with great 
kindness and civility. 

The rocks of the neighbourhood were red and 
white clays and sands, the latter passing sometimes 
into an argillaceous sandstone, that was often 
highly ferruginous. Some of the eminences con- 
sisting of this ferruginous sandstone were strewed 
with nodular concretions of ironstone. I could see 
no fossils anywhere. This formation greatly re- 
resembled that about Port Essington and the north 
coast of Australia. Some of the more ferruginous 
hills formed a rocky and barren soil, but that of the 
flats and lower portion was black, deep and rich 
looking. Mr. Salmond, the Senior Resident Coun- 
cillor, told me the soil of the district generally was 
richer than that of Singapore, and well adapted for 
the growth of sugar and other tropical produce, on 


FREEDOM FROM CRIME. 219 


a larger scale than has yet been tried. ‘The total 
population is 58,000, but living is so cheap, that it 
is difficult to induce the people to labour with suffi- 
cient regularity to justify large undertakings. Mr. 
Salmond said he could rarely get the same man to 
work in his garden two days together, for one day’s 
wages of 11 cents. or 53d. would keep him from four 
to six days. Having gained that accordingly, he 
passes the remainder of his time in cock fighting 
and other amusements. And why should a man 
work more than is necessary to support himself 
comfortably and happily ?* 

According to the account of the same high 
authority, whose real office is that of Deputy 
Governor of the district, no part of the world is 
freer from crime than the district of Malacca. The 
native chiefs have been deprived of their feudal 
authority and reduced to the condition of private 
gentlemen. There are afew European Magistrates 
_ by whom a Court of Session is held occasionally in 
Malacca, and there is a small body of police. 
Serious crimes, such as murder or robbery, are 
almost unknown ; a few petty cases of assault, or 


* Tt must be borne in mind, that what is comfort and happi- 
ness to the present generation, will probably be looked on by 
their descendants as squalidness and misery. It requires but a 
little taste for the luxuries or the elegancies of life, good furni- 
ture, or handsome clothing, to induce these people to work 
regularly for a few hours a day, which is as much as human 
beings ought to do in tropical countries. 


220 TIN MINES OF MALACCA. 


of disputes about property, are occasionally brought 
before the court, and are all that occur. The port 
is perfectly free, there being no customs, tolls, or 
duties, on either imports or exports, on markets, 
bridges, roads, or any other thing, except a slight 
registration tax on horses, carts, and bullocks, to 
pay the expenses of the police. 

The land however is considered to belong to the 
Government or East India Company, and is held 
from them on payment of a tax or rent which never 
~ exceeds one-tenth of the produce, and which varies 
according to the nature of the soil. The revenue 
derived from this did not, Mr. Salmond assured us, 
pay the expenses of the government.* 

He described the tin mines, a few miles up the 
country, as simple excavations in a few feet of clay 
and sand. A coarse rubble below this is then 
washed, and pebbles of tin ore extracted from it. 
This is smelted once, and brought, principally by 
water carriage, to Malacca. If designed for the 
English market, salt water is thrown over it while 
still hot, which gives it a dead white appearance 
like silver; if for the French, a little sulphur is 
added to give it a yellowish coppery tinge. The 
respective merchants of the two countries will give 
the best price only for their favourite colours, 
although the two parcels of tin may perhaps have 
been taken from the same mass. 


* For detailed information, respecting Malacca, I must of 
course refer my readers to Lieutenant Newbold’s work upon it. 


eS ee Le ee eS oe —" 


BOUKIT TIMAH. 221 


A similar anecdote was told me of a cargo of 
nutmegs, which being sent home, either from Ma- 
lacca or Penang, in their husk or rind, had when 
opened the bright red colour which they always 
have when fresh. They were declared unsaleable ; 
but after lying for a year or two in a warehouse at 
home, fetched a high price as a ‘‘ very superior 
article.” 

After remaining a week at Malacca we returned 
to Singapore, where we stayed for a fortnight. Dur- 
ing this time | made one excursion to Boukit ‘Timah, 
a hill near the north side of the island, and about 
eight miles from the town. Very good roads have 
now been made in several directions across the 
island, and a number of plantations cleared, in 
which are grown nutmegs, pepper, cloves, gambir, 
etc. The hill of Boukit Timah, which is about 400 
feet high, consisted of granite, but all the remainder 
of the ground passed over was either clay or sand, 
or a soft argillaceous sandstone, sometimes ferrugi- 
nous.* ‘The country was abruptly undulating, with 
many little winding valleys. The soil did not seem 
rich, except in the flat bottoms; but the whole 
country, both hill and dale, where it had not been 


* It contained harder beds of sandstone, and in some loose 
sands and clays I saw blocks of sandstone embedded of large size, 
and well rounded, as if water-worn boulders. I could not be 
sure, however, that they were true boulders, and not spheroidal 
concretions, such as I have seen in the sandstones of New South 
Wales. 


292 LAND ON JOHORE. 


cleared by the hand of man, was covered by a dense 
and impenetrable jungle. ‘Trees of vast height and 
size rose from amongst a profusion of undergrowth, 
studded with many varieties of palms and groves of 
tree-ferns. The subjacent rock did not seem of a 
more tractable description than that of Port Essing- 
ton, which indeed it much resembled; but how 
different was the native vegetation! and how much 
‘more rich in consequence the vegetable soil ! 

Another excursion I made was in the Government 
gun-boat, with Mr. Evans, to survey the Johore 
shoal, off the south-east point of the island of Singa- 
pore. I only succeeded in landing on the mainland 
of Johore for about half an hour. ‘The rock, and of 
course the vegetation, was the same as that of Sin- 
gapore. We visited a small Malay village, of which 
the Malay inhabitants seemed to be all mat-makers, 
but there were two Chinese shopkeepers, and a Bugis 
family was settled on a small island opposite, where 
they seemed to be cultivating the ground. Entering 
one of the Malay houses, we found a party of men, 
women, and children playing at cards. The cards 
were Chinese, and as well as the game quite unin- 
telligible to me. They played with great good 
humour, although a considerable number of the 
small coins they used frequently changed hands; 
as twelve of these coins, however, go to a penny 
sterling, the losses could not be very serious. 

On August 3rd, 1845, we left Singapore, and 
beat back through the Strait of Banca to that of 


—— oS bites —————, . 


MARRIAGE PROCESSION. 225 


Sunda, where we anchored off the little town of 
Anjer on August 19th. In passing the southern 
part of the island of Lingin I saw a group of moun- 
tains, in shape resembling those of the Malay pen- 
insula, and apparently 4000 or 5000 feet in height. 
We stayed a day at Anjer. ‘The interior of Java at 
this end looked almost as grand and beautiful as 
that of the part we had before travelled over. ‘The 
mountains though not so lofty, were much closer on 
the sea. 

We saw here in the evening a marriage proces- 
sion of the poorer classes, which I will briefly de- 
scribe, as I forgot to do so when speaking of our 
stay in Sourabaya. Two men came first beating 
a kind of drum, then came several men carrying 
a frame-work that was covered with garlands of 
flowers, and lighted up with tapers. Next to these 
came the bride and bridegroom; he was in his 
gayest clothes, his face, neck, and hands smeared 
with yellow paste.* The bride was ornamented 
with chaplets of flowers, and on each side were 
several bridesmaids similarly ornamented. Behind 
these walked a troop of girls, each carrying a small 
lighted taper and screaming at the top of her voice, 
and then came a crowd of boys and young men, all 
singing. 

I here close my narrative, since an account of 

* In the Sandwich islands yellow was the royal colour, none 


but the king being allowed to wear a cloak altogether yellow. 
See Ellis’s Polynesian Researches, vol. 4, page 157. 


Q94, GEOLOGY OF THE ARCHIPELAGO. 


our voyage from the Strait of Sunda to Sydney, and 
our return thence to England, could have little 
interest to the reader. Perhaps, however, I may 
be indulged with a few last general observations 
on the East Indian Archipelago. | 

The geological constitution of the Indian Archi- 
pelago, so far as it is known, appears to be simple 
and easily described. If we draw a line from 
the west coast of the Malay Peninsula down the 
Strait of Malacca, and thence through that of 
Banca, take it through the Java sea, and including 
in its sweep Borneo and Celebes, bring it round 
again to the east coast of the Malay Peninsula, 
the countries surrounded by it appear to consist 
principally of granite, more or less covered by sands 
and detrital accumulations, derived probably from 
the wear and tear of the granitic rocks. In these 
countries valuable minerals abound, more especially 
tin, antimony, and gold. 

A great volcanic band proceeds from the north 
through the Philippine Islands to the Moluccas. It 
here joins another that runs from the neighbourhood 
of Barren Island in the Bay of Bengal, through 
Sumatra, Java, and the islands to the eastward, 
along the northern coast of New Guinea, and thence 
through the Solomon Archipelago, that of Tierra 
Austral del Espiritu Santo and the New Hebrides, 
and is thence continued into New Zealand. In part 
of this great band, namely, from the western ex- 
tremity of Java into Timor, if not throughout its 


RAISED CORAL REEFS. Q925 


whole extent, thick tertiary calcareous formations 
rest upon the flanks of the volcanic chasm, and 
have been elevated along with it. These tertiary 
formations at the two points where I was able to 
examine them appeared to me to be raised coral- 
reefs. These two points were Timor and Java, and 
the distant aspect of both was precisely alike, and 
exactly resembled the distant aspect of the rocks at 
the intermediate points of Lombock, Sumbawa, and 
Sandalwood Island. If, however, these are all 
really raised coral-reefs, they do not belong to the 
class which may be called independent coral-reefs, 
but are probably “ fringing-reefs ’’ only. They are 
more largely developed than usual on account of 
the gradual elevation of the land, by which they 
were enabled to add continually to their lateral ex- 
tension, without suffering in these calm and sheltered 
seas much denudation in the parts which were 
successively protruded through the usually destruc- 
tive plane of the sea level. The mingled soils of 
these volcanic and calcareous rocks are some of the 
richest in the world, and combined with the heat 
and moisture of the climate produce a vegetation 
unequalled for its luxuriance, affording the most 
exquisite fruits, the most varied and abundant vege- 
table foods, and being the native home of the rarest 
and most valued spices. 

The northern and eastern coasts of Australia, 
and the island of New Caledonia, seem in their 
granitic rocks, and the former at least in its more 

VOL. II. Q 


226 ARCHIPELAGO STILL UNKNOWN. 


superficial accumulations, to resemble the Malayan 
peninsula, and the countries above associated with 


it, as Borneo and its neighbourhood. Whether they 


also contain similar or other metals is yet unknown. 
The vegetable wealth which exists in the northern 
granitic islands, though not in such profusion as in 
those of the voleanic band, is, at all events, not ex- 
tended to the north coast of Australia. 

It seems strange that these regions included in 
the East Indian Archipelago, one of the most fa- 
voured portions of the globe, should have remained 
even to our day comparatively unknown and uncared 
for, while so many other parts of the world, less 
accessible and far less interesting, have been con- 
stantly ransacked and described by travellers of all 
kinds. The grandeur and beauty of the scenery 
of this great group of islands can hardly be sur- 
passed, while, as we have already observed, the 
richness of its productions 1n the animal and mineral 
kingdoms is great, and in the vegetable kingdom 
they are unequalled whether in beauty, rarity, or 
value to man. 

Its populous inhabitants, so mild and tractable in 
their native disposition, so docile to kindness, and 
so open to instruction, have been left either in their 
native barbarism, or still worse, have been oppressed 
by the exactions and exasperated by the injuries of 
Europeans. ‘Their seas, for the most part so tran- 
quil and easy of navigation, have been left unsur- 
veyed and permitted to swarm with the piratical 


MR. BROOKE OF SARAWAK. BO; 


craft of their own uninstructed chieftains, or those 
of foreign adventurers who have acquired influence 
among them. ‘Their conversion to Mahomedanism 
by a few wandering Arabs has been suffered to go on 
unchecked by the diffusion of the purer and higher 
tenets of Christianity, while vast sums and great 
exertions have been expended almost in vain in 
regions of far less promise and of far greater diff- 
culty. Within the last two years more attention 
has perhaps been directed to this region, and some 
interest excited respecting it by the publication of 
part of Mr. Brooke’s Journal in Captain Keppel’s 
narrative of the Voyage of the Dido.* It is not 
required that I should add my meed of praise to 
the universal acknowledgment of the energy, enter- 
prise, and humane and lofty views of Mr. Brooke. 
One thing well worthy of attention will be shewn 
by the result of his labours, and that is what can 
be done with these people when well managed, 
and governed with any regard to the rules of 
justice and benevolence. In this direction, more 
particularly, I believe his example will be highly 
beneficial. Every one, moreover, at all acquainted 


* The above observations are mostly copied from my journal 
written before I had seen this work, or, indeed, had heard of 
Mr. Brooke’s establishment at Sarawak. I need hardly add that 
I was delighted to find the opinion I had previously formed of 
the character and capabilities of the Malay race so much in ac- 
cordance with that expressed by one who has had such opportu- 
nities as that gentleman of forming a correct judgment. 


a2 


298 FUTURE PROSPECTS. 


with the Malay character will agree with me when 
I declare that it is just from those Malay nations, 
who are now most dreaded as pirates and robbers, 
that, under proper treatment, the largest results 
may be expected in commerce and civilization. 

One of the great defects of the Malay character 
in general, as among the Javanese for instance, is a 
want of enterprise and hardihood. Where those 
qualities. exist, however they may have been. mis- 
directed hitherto, we have far more valuable mate- 
rials to work upon, than where they are absent. 
What European nations were of old the greatest 
pirates and freebooters? Those, our own included, 
who have afterwards attained the highest pitch of 
civilization. 


Europe has hitherto brought little but ruin and 


rapine, and commercial restriction, into this, the 
fairest and most fertile region of the earth. Surely, 
she owes it a tardy reparation. For any nation 
wishing to diffuse among these people the blessings 
of commerce, of enlightenment and civilization, I do 
not think territorial acquisitions advisable, beyond a 
few small posts or stations, foritsnaval and mercantile 
marine. A strong feeling exists on the part of 
many of the inhabitants of the Archipelago in favour 
of England, which our manufacturing and commer- 
cial necessities would urge us to foster and take ad- 
vantage of. Our policy, I believe, would be to keep 
the seas free from outrage, to make them everywhere 
safe for all those “ passing upon them on their law- 


en taw i > Vd ee 
a le ee re, 


DUTCH POSSESSIONS. 299 


ful occasions,’ whether natives or Europeans; to 
break up the strong-holds of piracy, and eradicate 
the disposition to it, by rendering its practice unsafe 
or impossible. Having done that, we may safely 
trust to the gradual, though slow, operation of 
commerce, or to individual enterprise and _philan- 
thropy for the enlightenment and civilization of the 
nations of the islands, and look forward to an ulti- 
mate reward in the markets that will be opened for 
our trade and manufactures. 

The people are naturally of a commercial turn, 
capable of considerable advancement in the arts of 
agriculture, or the collection of produce of all kinds, 
and the surest way of encouraging the cultivation 
of the interior of the islands would be to afford the 
utmost facility for the exportation of their produc- 
tions. 

There is one obstacle in the way, it may be said, 
namely, the Dutch and their possessions. But why 
should our old allies, and very good friends at home, 
be our natural enemies in the East? It is true, I 
believe, that they are very jealous of us, and per- 
haps rather bitter against us there; and it is also 
true, that from a feeling of mutual jealousy, we have 
- hampered each other with a treaty of non-interfe- 
rence, and thus tied up each other’s hands. Is it 
necessary that this should always be so? Surely, 
we can persuade them to join with us in measures 
that would be for our mutual advantage. Let the 
Hollanders adhere to their exclusive system if they 


230 ROOM FOR BOTH NATIONS. 


please, or until they see fit to alter it, in those places 
in which they already exercise territorial dominion. 
There is abundance of room for another and mu- 
tually co-operative system to be tried without touch- 
Ing on those dominions. Let them join with us in 
assuming the police of the seas, and encouraging 
the civilization and commerce of the natives. Let 
certain places, conveniently situated for posts and 
stations, either be assigned to each, or held in com- 
mon, or occupied merely under the native govern- 
ments. Why, I again ask, should we quarrel when 
our friendship and co-operation would be so mutually 
beneficial ? The old national prejudices are now fast 
wearing out of all our hearts, why not look forward 
to a time when they shall be altogether effaced ?* 
Whether, however, we act jointly with others, or 
alone, the time is surely now come when so large, 
so fair, and so accessible a portion of the earth 
should no longer be carelessly or ignorantly aban- 
doned to barbarism ; when it is almost our duty, if it 
were not our interest, to spread through it what we 
can, whether of physical comfort or of moral and 
intellectual enlightenment. Happy, perhaps, is it 


* If it were not trespassing too closely on the confines of party 
politics, I might speculate here on the effects of a change in the 
government of Holland. There is no doubt that an enlarged and 
liberal commercial policy in the East would be an estimable benefit 
and advantage to the great mass of the people of Holland, 
although the maintenance of the present exclusive and restrictive 
system is vitally necessary to the existing monarchical and aris- 
tocratical interests of that country. 


— = 


— 


a ee Ls ee ee Pee 


“s r’ “= 


eae ew cae 


HONESTY THE BEST POLICY. 231 


for these nations that they have hitherto lived even 
so far undisturbed as they have, down to an age when 
it becomes possible for the European to have close 
intercourse with them, without carrying death and 
ruin in his train, when with a more humane because 
a wiser and more far-seeing policy than of old, it 1s 
acknowledged that we cannot hope ultimately to 
benefit and enrich ourselves, unless we act so that 
our customers and allies be likewise enriched and 


benefited. 


CHAPTER IX. 


ON THE ETHNOLOGY OF THE INDIAN AND PACIFIC OCEANS. 


Havine never made the science of Ethnology 
my study, I feel some diffidence in attempting to 
contribute to its stores. My reasons for making that 
attempt, are, firstly, that very little is known of some 
of the people that we visited, and secondly, that in 
what has been published respecting them there 
seemed to me to be one or two errors, which our 
observations might enable me to correct. In order 
to put the subject in a clearer light, I shall endea- 
vour to give a slight sketch of the three principal 
races of men, that inhabit the islands of the Indian 
and Pacific Oceans. ‘These three principal races 
are, 1. The Malayo-Polynesian. »2. The Papuan. 
8. The Australian. The first are comparatively well 
known, and much information has lately been given 
to the world respecting the last, but of the second, 
or Papuan race, the published accounts are very 
meagre and scanty. It is from our ignorance re- 
specting them that one of the errors I speak of has 
arisen, namely, the confounding them with the Aus- 
tralians, and classing both under one head, that of 
Melanesians.* My principal object in this chapter 


* In the last edition of Dr. Prichard’s Researches into the 
Physical History of Mankind, this error is in great measure 


DIFFERENCES OFTEN SLIGHT. 233 


is toshew that of the three races enumerated above, 
the third is as different from the second, as the second 
is from the first. In this investigation, I must 
request the reader to bear in mind, that in propor- 
tion as different races of men approach more nearly 
to the simple state of the savage, so do the diffe- 
rences between them become less in amount and 
therefore less obvious to the transient observer, 
while at the same time these slight differences may 
be as characteristic and important as much larger 
variations between more civilized races. In the 


obviated. He separates the Australian from the Papuan races, 
and classes them provisionally with the so-called Alfooras or 
Harafooras. “This last designation however ought at cnce to be 
discarded, as I have no doubt Mr. Earl’s derivation and explana- 
tion of the word as given by Dr. Prichard are correct. There is 
no one race of men answering to the Harafooras, it is a term that 
has been used to signify any wild tribe of whom the speaker 
knew little or nothing. 

Dr. Prichard alters the term Melanesian into Kelcenonesian, 
and no doubt improves its etymology by so doing. It still how- 
ever appears to me inappropriate, for either under the term Kelee- 
nonesian or Oceanic Blacks you must include the Papuan and 
Australian races, or confine it to the one when it is just as appli- 
cable to the other. Neither do I think the distinction of colour 
a good one, independently of this consideration, because some of 
the Polynesian or Malay races, may be and I believe are just as 
black as the Papuans or Australians. Some of the Madurese we 
saw were as black as the Torres Strait Islanders for instance. I 
do not see why, as the term Malay has been extended from the 
particular nation, and made to include the race, the term Papua 
should not also be extended from a tribe in the north-west corner 
of New Guinea to include the whole of that race. 


I34 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 


numberless institutions and observances and com- 
plicated relations of civilised life, points of resem- 
blance or discordance between different nations, even 
of kindred race, become so numerous and so obvious 
as to be at once remarked. Although the amount 
of difference thus remarked may not be greater 
proportion to the whole mass of human relations in 
the civilised than the savage state, yet as that mass 
is much less in the latter than in the former, the 
proportionate differences between its parts must also 
be much less, and in the simplest conditions of 
humanity run a chance of being altogether over- 
looked.* Differences in laws, customs, and social 
usages, In respect for rank, in form of government, 
in the internal spirit or external forms of religion, 
in agriculture or commerce, or in arts or sciences, 
must be in vain sought for among people almost 
entirely destitute of all these things, as for instance 
the Australians and the Fuegians. Whenever 
people in so simple a condition are placed under 
circumstances at all approaching to similarity, it is 
obvious that more points of resemblance will be 
perceived between them, than of discordance, and a 
hasty or superficial observer would be very likely 
to be led into error in his conclusions respecting 
them. 


* The difference between 1 and 2 is precisely the same in pro- 
portion with that between 50 and 100, but as the amount of the 
difference is in one case 1, and in the other 50, the former may 
be much more easily overlooked than the latter. 


ua. 1. 


PHYSICAL CHARACTERS. 235 


_ Bearing this remark in mind, let us glance over 


a few of the principal characteristics, physical, 


- intellectual, and moral, of the three races now under 


discussion. 

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
- Malayo-Polynesian race.—Of this race we saw, 
during our voyage, the people of Coupang, and of 


Lombock, Java, and Malacca, and individuals of 
the Bughis from Celebes and other parts of the 


Archipelago. There was a great difference of stature 


and of beauty among them. Some of the principal 
men in Lombock and Java were tall and portly, with 
open and intelligent countenances, as were many 
also of the Bughis, while others among the Malay 
nations were of mean stature and repulsive appear- 
ance. ‘The children and young people of both sexes 
were often really handsome in face and graceful in 
figure. Among the adults, whatever was the stature, 
the figure was usually square-built and athletic, the 
limbs large, and the shoulders broad. The skin 
was commonly smooth and almost hairless, and the 
outline of the limbs was rounder and the muscles 
less prominent than among Europeans. The face 
was generally broad and rather flat. The hair of 
the head was harsh, long, black, and almost invari- 
ably straight. The colour of the skin varied from 
yellow up to an almost negro blackness, but a dark 
yellowish-brown was the most usual tint. 

I believe this description would apply to the 


236 PHYSICAL CHARACTERS, 


inhabitants of the rest of the Indian Archipelago — 
peopled by this race, as also to the aborigines of 
most of the islands of the Pacific. 

Papuan race.— Of these people we saw those 
inhabiting the islands of Torres Strait, and parts 
of the south-east shores of New Guinea, and a few 
individuals (slaves in Java) said to come from the 
western or north-western shores of New Guinea. 
The generality of these people did not differ very 
greatly from Europeans in the stature or propor- 
tions of their bodies. ‘Their limbs were generally 
rounder in outline, and less muscular in aspect than 
would be found among our labouring population at 
home, and they had not the squareness of build 
remarkable in the Malay race. ‘Their features 
were frequently good, compared with the Austra- 
lians, the forehead broad though not high, the 
head generally rather square, the nose slightly 
aquiline, but broad at the base, with open nostrils, 
the lips rather thick. Their faces not unfrequently 
reminded us of those of the Jews. The eyes were 
sufficiently large and well formed, not too deeply set, 
nor with the overhanging brow of the Australian. 
The colour of the skin is commonly of a deep red- 
dish brown, but we saw some individuals in New 
Guinea of a pale frog-like yellow colour. The hair 
of these people is very peculiar, and at first sight 
might be confounded with the wool of the negro. 
Its distribution is most easily seen on the body and 
limbs, where it may be observed to grow in small 


ida) 
oS 
= 
S 
s 
= 
= 


‘ie 
¥¢ 
AS 


1 he ol. 2 
. i] 


————————— Cl 


a7, 


pei? 


DAR 


PHYSICAL CHARACTERS. 237 


tufts or pencils, separated one from the other, giving 
a blotchy or woolly aspect to the skin. The hair of 
the head doubtless grows in the same way, but here 
the tufts are close together, and each forms a sepa- 
rate small curl, very stiff, and when suffered to 
grow long, hangs down in a narrow pipe-like ringlet. 
These curls resemble those of a thrum mop. The 
fashion of dressing the hair no doubt varies in dif- 
ferent localities, as may be seen in the published 
accounts and figures of these people. It is often 
smeared also with red ochre and pinguents, whence 
the accounts of a red-haired people among the 
islands inhabited by this race. From these circum- 
stances the short hair of the body ought to he ob- 
served rather than that of the head, in making notes 
on the physical structure of savage races. 
Australian race.-—Of these people we saw some 
of those inhabiting New South Wales, several tribes 
on the north-east coast, those of Port Essington, 
and those of Western Australia, South Australia, 
and Port Phillip. They were in every case evidently 
the same race of men. The physical characteristics 
of the Australians are now well known from the 
books and plates of recent travellers. Their figure 
is remarkable for a spareness and lankiness about 
the lower extremities, the hips and thighs, as well 
as the calves of the legs; this is observable in the 
females as well as inthe men. Their heads are in 
general large, with very projecting eyebrows and 
deep-set eyes, the nose broad, the mouth wide, and 


238 INTELLECTUAL CHARACTERS. 


there is very often a ferocious look, which is not in 
accordance with the character of the individual. 
The hair is various, and often matted and twisted 
with filth and grease into different fashions ; when 
clean, however, it is frequently as fine and glossy as 
that of the European, with a tendency to form broad 
open curls in the same way. Its colour is in 
some of the children of a sunburnt brown; but I 
never saw other than black hair among the adults. 
The hair of the body does not differ from that of 
an European. In their skins they vary from a 
dark chocolate brown to an almost perfect black. 
Their hands and feet are usually small and well- 
shaped. ‘The shoulders and chests of the men are 
generally broad and sufficiently muscular. The 
children are almost invariably pot-bellied, a ten- 
dency to which structure may sometimes be observed 
in the adults. The tout ensemble of the face, figure, 
and expression of an Australian is so peculiar that 
a person familiar with it would have, I believe, 
no difficulty in picking one out from among the 
inhabitants even of the immediately adjacent islands. 


INTELLECTUAL CHARACTERISTICS. 


Malayo- Polynesian race. — As I only introduce 
remarks on this race for the sake of contrasting 
them with the others, and consider their charac- 
teristics to be comparatively well known, I shall be 
much more brief in my observations on them than 
their relative value and importance would demand. 


INTELLECTUAL CHARACTERS. . 239 


I shall content myself under this head, therefore, 
with saying that I do not believe the natural intel- 
lectual capacities of the Malayo-Polynesian race to 
be much inferior to that of any other in the world. 
Whether we consider their ancient empires in the 
East, the old kingdoms of Java or Sumatra, of Ma- 
lacca or Singapore, or their other states in Borneo, 
Celebes, the Moluccas, and other places, or examine 
the political and religious institutions of Tahiti, of 
Tongatabu, or of the Sandwich Islands, we shall see 
every where springing up, among people of this race, 
laws, customs, and social establishments, evincing 
no slight power of mind in their founders, and no 
mean capacities for the arts of government and the 
institution and preservation of social order among 
the people at large. One thing is very striking in 
this race, which is their quick appreciation and 
ready reception of all improvements. In the Indian 
Archipelago, this has been shewn by the reception 
among the people of Java and the neighbouring 
islands of the arts and religion of the ancient Hin- 
doos, which was probably a great improvement on 
their previous rude superstition, and subsequently 
by the facility of their conversion to the tenets of 
Islam, an equally great advance upon their Hin- 
dooism. In the Pacific, I have only to recall to the 
reader’s mind the easy conversion of the islanders to 
Christianity, and their rapid attainments in the arts 
of reading, writing, and other means of enlighten- 
ment, and ask him in what part of the world similar 


24.0 _ INTELLECTUAL CHARACTERS. 


circumstances have taken place. Even in the wildest 
of the Malayo-Polynesian tribes, we find hereditary 
chieftainship, division into different ranks in society, 
private property, comfortable houses, cultivated 
grounds, and well constructed canoes. ‘Their lan- 
guages,* so remarkable for their wonderful family 
resemblance over so large a space of the earth’s 
surface, are, I believe, always copious, elegant, and 
expressive, and they all cultivate the arts of music, 
poetry, and dancing. ‘The favourite weapons of 
the Polynesian race are the spear and the dagger, 
and they have no small aptitude for acquiring 
skill in military evolutions, either at sea or on 
shore. 

Papuan race. —Our information regarding the 
intellectual characteristics of this race, is of a nega- 
tive rather than positive kind. They seem to be 
inferior to the Polynesian race, inasmuch as no 
effort at civilization has ever sprung up among 
them. Their political institutions seem to be simple 
and feeble. We do not hear of any division into 
ranks or of any hereditary chieftainship or authority 
among them. They seem to live in small tribes, 
hostile the one to the other. Of their religious 
notions nothing is known. They have never attained 
to any great skill in navigation. ‘Their canoes are 
commonly small, rudely fashioned, and unfit to en- 


* T must refer the reader to Dr. Prichard’s work before-men- 
tioned, for the most accessible, interesting, and condensed 
account of the Great Polynesian language. 


— aA 


INTELLECTUAL CHARACTERS. Q41 


counter the swell of the open sea.* ‘Their agricul- 
ture is very rude, and they seem in no instance to 
have attained to the cultivation of rice or any other 
sort of grain. I am not aware of any genuine Papuan 
people having invented or practised the art of mak- 
ing any kind of cloth. Their favourite weapons are 
the bow and arrow, but they seem never to have 
acquired any thing like discipline or skill in war- 
fare, although apparently more constantly engaged 
in it than the Polynesians. The most striking 
instance of skill and ability among the Papuan peo- 
ple, with which I am acquainted, is that evinced in 
the erection of the immense houses in New Guinea, 
of one of which a description will be found in the 


* Mr. Blaxland, of Sydney, New South Wales, having often 
cruized in command of a whaler among the islands of the western 
part of the Pacific, had written some notes respecting them, 
which he had the kindness to place at my disposal. He says, 
‘that the canoes of the Papua, or woolly-haired race, are always 
single, with outriggers ; those of the straight-haired Polynesians 
generally double. The canoes of the Solomon Islands have ele- 
vated prows and sterns, inlaid with mother-of-pearl, carrying 


- from forty to sixty men, but being of very frail construction, 


and the planks very thin, they only ventured in calm weather so 
much as ten miles from land. The paddles are five feet long, 
very light, and the blade leaf-shaped, and two feet long.’? On the 
north shore of New Guinea he has seen ‘‘ canoes, ornamented 
by large heads at the bow and the stern. From these countries 
the canoes of the woolly-haired races degenerate towards the 
east, till at New Caledonia they are only fit for the quiet water 
inside the reefs, and the people of Erroomanga and Tanna have 
no canoes whatever.” 


VOL. II. R 


24,2 INTELLECTUAL CHARACTERS. 


preceding work (vol. i. p. 271). . Of the languages 
of the Papuans but little is known. It appears, how- 
ever, that the tongues of the different nations vary 
much more frequently and more completely than 
those of the Polynesian race. We had reason to 
believe that the language of the islands of Torres 
Strait was different from that of the coast of New 
Guinea to the northward of them.* It will be seen 
in our vocabulary, that the islanders counted only 
by twos instead of tens, and that with this dual 
notation they seldom went beyond six. 

They seem to exhibit some skill and taste in the 
ornamenting of their canoes, and other implements 
and furniture, with carving in various patterns, and 
the carved wooden and tortoise-shell figures we saw 
among the Torres Strait islanders were much supe- 
rior to anything I ever saw or heard of among Aus- 
tralians. 

Australian race.—'The most contradictory ac- 
counts have been given of the intellectual capacity 
of this race. Some persons have degraded them to 
the level of the monkey, or even of the kangaroo, 
while from other descriptions, especially those of 
Captain Grey, I think a rather higher standard 
would be given them than is their due. To liken 
the intellect of any, even the most degraded of 


* Dr. Latham having kindly offered to give me some notes on 
our Torres Strait vocabulary in particular, and on the languages 
of the Papuans in general, I beg to refer the reader to them, as 
of much higher authority than any I can offer. 


INTELLCETUAL CHARACTERS. dE hi 


human beings, to that of even the most intelligent 
of the brutes is absurd; the difference is not one of 
degree, it is one of kind, however striking may be 
the occasional analogies between the two. Bearing 
in mind, then, that it is of human intelligence we 
are speaking, we are, I think, quite justified in say- 
ing that the Australian intellect is of the lowest 
order. They have nothing that can be called an 
approach to political institutions, no distinctions of 
rank, nor any chieftainship, beyond what authority 
each man can acquire by his personal prowess, skill, 
or cunning, above his fellows. They are utterly 
destitute of agriculture and of all manufacture of 
any kind of material, or tool, or implement, beyond 
their few weapons, and a rude stone hammer, and 
some simple nets and baskets. Over the largest part 
of the coast they were utterly ignorant of any kind 
of canoe, or any method of passing on the water, 
until they were visited by Europeans. In those 
parts where canoes were known, they seemed to have 
acquired the idea from the islanders of Torres 
Strait.* They have no huts worthy of the name, 


* On the north-east coast of Australia, which the islanders fre- 
quently traverse for very considerable distances, and which I am 
almost inclined to suspect they have in some places colonized, 
canoes formed of hollow trees, with outriggers, were met with. 
At Rockingham Bay, in lat. 18°, these were no longer to be seen, 
but very fairly-formed bark canoes were found. To the south- 


ward of that place bark canoes were rarely seen, and were of 


much inferior construction. In the colony of New South Wales, 
the only canoe known to the natives was formed of a sheet of 


rk 2 


Q4.4, INTELLECTUAL CHARACTERS. 


nor permanent habitations of any kind. Men and 
women are alike naked, except that in the southern 
parts of Australia, they wear a kind of rug of opos- 
sum skins over the shoulders, during the cold 
weather. They have no religious notions beyond a 
feeling of vague superstition. Their languages, 
although shewing evident traces of a common origin, 
yet vary so much and so frequently, that a native of 
one tribe can rarely understand the tongue of another 
fifty miles distant. Even immediately adjacent tribes 
often speak totally different languages, as different, 
for instance, as the German and the Dutch, or the 
Spanish and the Portuguese. 

In addition to these negative characteristics, in 
which the Australians differ more or less from the 
Papuans in intelligence, there are more positive dis- 
tiuctions between the two. They differ in those 
things which they have invented, as well as in those 
they have not. Among these, two things are most 


bark, tied at the ends, which Cook found in Botany Bay, and 
which the natives still use in shallow coves for fishing. In the 
same way, on the north coast, the canoes gradually deteriorate as 
we proceed from Torres Strait to the westward. At Port Es- 
sington sheets of bark only were known before the arrival of the 
Macassar Bughis, and on the north-west coast, neither Captain 
King nor Captain Stokes mention any other method of crossing 
the water than on rude rafts, formed of bundles of rushes, or 
sticks, tied together. In Western Australia, as also in South 
Australia, even this device had never been hit on by the natives, 
and the islands close to the mainland had never been visited by 
them previously to the founding of the colonies. 


INTELLECTUAL CHARACTERS. 945 


remarkable, the throwing-stick for darting the spear, 
and the well-known weapon, called the boomerang. 
The latter is quite peculiar to the Australians, but 
something like the throwing-stick is, I believe, 
known among the Esquimaux. Neither have ever 
been mentioned as met with among any Papuan race. 
The customs of knocking out one or two front teeth 
and of raising great scars or cicatrices on the skin, 
so universal among the Australians, are not known 
among the Papuan race, so far as | am aware. The 
reason or object of these customs I have never heard 
explained. 

The Australian intellect seemed to me, from my 
intercourse with them, and with those who knew 
them well, to be chiefly deficient in the reflecting 
and inventing faculties, in the capacity for forming 
abstract ideas, and reasoning upon them; the per- 
ceptive faculties, on the contrary, were often very 
acute, being sharpened by constant practice. In all 
objects of sense, the Australians are quick at receiv- 
ing and tenacious in retaining instruction; they 
would make tolerable mechanics, and are said to 
readily learn to read and write, of which I have no 
doubt, and they would easily get off by rote a num- 
ber of answers to questions on religious or other 
subjects. I do not believe, however, that they had 
in any instance, really formed any adequate ideas 
answering to the words they used, or that hardly 
one among them could be found capable of compre- 
hending them. They are very ready also in pene- 


24.6 MORAL CHARACTERS. 


trating into the motives and reading the character of 
those with whom they are engaged, so far as regards 
the probable conduct of those persons with respect 
to their own self-interest. Inshort, the Australians 
seem to have quick imitative; but no original powers; 
to have great cunning, but little real intellectual 
capacity. 


MORAL CHARACTERISTICS. 


The Malayo-Polynesian race.—The only points 
in which this race differs in morals from ourselves, 
or our ancestors, are in their low estimate of female 
chastity, and in their propensity to cannibalism. 
Most of the nations of this.race seem to have origi- 
nally allowed to unmarried women the same license 
that in the rest of the world is confined to young 
unmarried men, a departure from the strict rule of 
chastity being looked on as a venial error, rather 
than an irreparable stain upon the character. As 
to their proneness to cannibalism, it appears not only 
in those places where it has been openly and avow- 
edly practised in our own times, as in New Zealand, 
and among the Battaks in Sumatra, but is shewn by 
several small traits in the history of other nations 
of the race, where the practice has long since been 
repudiated with horror. In Sir S. Rafiles’s History 
of Java, he mentions a rebel chief being slain in 
the presence of the sovereign, and his nobles, to 
shew their detestation of his crime, cutting out his 
heart; and dividing among them and eating it. 


MORAL CHARACTERS. Q4'7 


Ellis discovered some traces of the practice having 
formerly existed in the Sandwich Islands and Tahiti, 
although the natives remembered nothing of it, and 
were horror-struck at the mention of it. 

Papuan race. — Most of the accounts of these 
people describe their honesty as superior to that of 
the Polynesian race, and they seem to be less 
eagerly addicted to pilfering; they are, however, 
commonly much more hostile and ferocious, some- 
times waging open warfare, sometimes having re- 
course to the grossest treachery. 1 do not know 
that in this latter respect they are often to be 
blamed, for their hostility is but the natural defence 
of their country against foreign invaders, and their 
treachery the usual method of warfare among savage 
nations. In one respect they seem to be most strik- 
ingly contrasted with the Polynesian race, namely, 
in the reserve and chastity of their women towards 
strangers, but whether their manners are as strict 
among themselves, or would be found to continue so 
to Europeans on a longer acquaintance, may perhaps 
be doubted: As far as our personal observation 
went they are to be mentioned honourably for their 
treatment of their women. We never among the 
Torres Strait islanders saw a woman. beaten or 
abused ; and in all the harder kinds of work the 
men appeared to take their fair share of labour. 
Their care and affection for their children seemed 
always great. Although wanting in the engaging 
liveliness and fascinating manners which are de- 


248 MORAL CHARACTERS. 


scribed as characteristics of some of the eastern 
Polynesian nations, the Torres Strait islanders were 
of a cheerful disposition, readily engaging in sports 
and amusement, and their curiosity was easily ex- 
cited by anything interesting or uncommon. They 
evinced also considerable perseverance beth in their 
efforts to gain information from us, or to impart 
instruction to us respecting their language and other 
matters. They did not exhibit either much cupidity 
or great generosity, but were always ready to enter 
into trade, and stood out for what they considered a 
fair equivalent for their merchandise. They always 
preferred useful articles to mere ornaments. The 
conduct of old Duppa and the Murray islanders to 
Ireland and D’Oyley, the survivors of the wreck 
of the Charles Eaton, shewed great humanity, and 
I have no doubt that in all places where Europeans 
are known, they would have as fair a chance of good 
treatment among Papuan nations as among any 
other savage tribes. 

Australian race.—I\t is difficult to make any 
generalization about the moral qualities of men in 
so low a state of society as the Australians. Their 
honesty results in great measure from there being 
few European articles for which they have any use ; 
articles of food, or a knife, or a hatchet, are by no 
means safe, where they can get at them. Of chastity 
they have no idea, as a virtue; but the woman 
being at all periods of life the property or slave of 
some man, any infringement on that property is 


MORAL CHARACTERS. 249 


resented by him. Their behaviour to their women 
is often very bad: they beat, and even spear them, 
on the most trifling occasions. Different tribes vary 
in the most extraordinary way in their friendliness 
or hostility to strangers. ‘They appear to be very 
capricious, and always act on the whim, or impulse 
of the moment, and for that reason are frequently 
guilty of the grossest acts of treachery. They have 
no power of perseverance, or of fixing the attention 
long upon one subject, unless, perhaps, on the chase 
of wild animals. 

It is useless for our present purpose to speak in 
detail of the very many peculiar manners and cus- 
toms of the Australians as described by various 
authors. Such are the laws of marriage described 
by Captain Grey, their ceremonial dances or corro- 
bories, the initiatory ceremonies on admitting the 
boys to the society of men when one of their front- 
teeth is knocked out, their funeral ceremonies, and 
others, for which I must refer the reader to the 
works mentioned in the note.* I wish, however, 
to observe, that so far as we know, all these manners 
and customs are confined to the Australians. We 
did not observe any traces of them among the 
Torres Strait islanders, except, perhaps, some re- 
semblance in their custom of preserving the bones 
of the dead, but even this was uncertain. Not only 
could we discover no traces of these Australian 


* The travels of Sir T. Mitchell, Captains Sturt, Grey, King, 
and Stokes, and of Messrs. Eyre, Hodgkinson, Hodson, &c. 


250 GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION. 


manners and customs, but we frequently perceived 
the existence of manners and customs among the 
islanders not known in Australia ; although, from our 
imperfect acquaintance with the people, we could 
form no accurate notions of their nature and details. 

The geographical extent of the countries now oc- 
cupied by these several races are the following :— 
The Australian race is strictly confined to the great 
island of Australia and its immediately adjacent 
islets. The same race inhabited Van Diemen’s 
Land, or Tasmania, but here, from their physical 
characteristics, and I believe also from their lan- 
guage, they seem to have received a slight admixture 
of the Papuan race. 

The Papuan race exclusively possesses the 
islands on the north-east of Australia, namely, 
New Guinea with New Britain and New Ireland, 
the Solomon Islands, the islands called Tierra Aus- 
tral del Espiritu Santo, and the New Hebrides, 
and New Caledonia.* It extends also to the 


* Mr. Blaxland, in the MS. notes mentioned before, remarks 
that the geographical boundary of the Papuanaslanders is pre- 
cisely coincident with that of the north-west monsoon. This 
wind, from the months of November to March inclusive, is the 
prevalent one over all the space extending from the equator to 
10° or 15° S. latitude, and in longitude from Sumatra to the 
Feejee Islands. It is sometimes experienced to the west of Su- 
matra as far as the north of Madagascar, and it sometimes also 
extends to the east of the Feejee Islands into the Pacific Ocean, 
but these extensions are irregular, and its usual eastern boundary 
is precisely that of the Papuan race before described. Mr. 
Blaxland deduces from this fact, coupled with the little skill of 


GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION. Q51 


Feejee Islands, where it is more or less mingled 
with the Polynesian race, and where the language 
appears to be of Polynesian origin. It is probable 
that from New Caledonia proceeded the colony, or 
whatever it was, that reached Tasmania, and there 
mingled with the Australian race. Tothe westward 
of New Guinea scattered tribes, apparently of Pa- 
puan race, are said to occur in the interior of many 
islands as far west as that called Ende, Flores or 
Mangeray, and as far north as the Philippine 
Islands. It has even been said that the Andaman 
Islands, in the Bay of Bengal, are inhabited by a 
people much resembling the Papuans, and I have 
been struck with the similarity of many of their 
customs to those which are said to characterize some 
of the wild hill tribes in the centre of India. I be- 
lieve, however, that many of the stories of tribes of 


that race in navigation, the inference that they have travelled 
from the west into the Pacific Ocean, and extended their migra- 
tion only so far as the monsoon allowed them. He believes also, 
from some similarity in the customs of the aboriginal Americans 
and the Polynesians, and the analogy in structure between the 
double American balsas and the double canoes of Polynesia, that 
the latter race have come from America, and that their extension 
to the eastward was checked by finding the Papuan islands 
already in possession of a numerous, hostile, and ferocious race. 
Whatever may have been the origin of the Polynesians, it is cer- 
tainly most probable that their reason for going round these 
Papuan islands (whether from the east or west), and not taking 
possession of them, was the fact of their being previously in- 
habited by the Papuans. 


Q52 GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION. 


people being found in the various parts of the 
Archipelago must be received with much caution, 
and that most of the wild people so described will . 
be found, like the Dyaks of Borneo, or the wild 
tribes of the Malacca Peninsula, to be really of 
Polynesian race. A mingling of the Papuan race 
with the Australian probably takes place at the 
present day in the neighbourhood of Torres Strait, 
but not, perhaps, to so great an extent as might be 
expected, for I am inclined to think that the Aus- 
tralians give way and retreat before the islanders. 

The great Malayo-Polynesian race is spread over 
all the remainder of the space between the eastern 
coast of Africa, and the west coast of America, 1n- 
cluding Madagascar on the one side and Easter 
Island on the other, and taking in the Malay Penin- 
sula and the Philippine Islands, and the whole 
Pacific Ocean. 

I am fully sensible how little there is in the fore- 
going observations that will be new to the Ethno- 
logist ; my wish, however, to put.some things in a 
little clearer light, and more especially to render 
familiar to the general reader what is already 
known or understood concerning the races of men 
alluded to, must be my excuse for putting these 
few notes together and inserting them in the present 
work. 


aay 


Oe ee 
aretey ite 
ee 1 


ae iene Pigs 


* a\ oe 


a — | 


ey i' 


APPENDIX, 


No. I. 


Captain Biackwoop having placed at my disposal a 
copy of the Orders under which he sailed, I give them here 
in order that the reader may understand the nature and 
object of our voyage. ‘The subsequent abstract of the 
voyage will shew something of the way in which the Orders 
were carried out. 


By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord 
High Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great 
Britain and Ireland, &§c. 


Whereas, a large proportion of the vessels trading to the 
South Sea, and to Australia, are obliged to return to 
Europe, or proceed to India, by way of Torres Strait; and 
whereas, many of those vessels, when weak-handed, in order 
to avoid the frequent anchorage necessary in the in-shore 
passage, by what is called King’s Route, stand out to sea 
till an opportunity offers for making one of the narrow 
gaps in the Barrier Reefs, through which they steer for 
the Strait; and whereas, several vessels have thus been 
lost, there being no other guide to these openings than the 
casual observation of latitude which is often incorrect, there 
being no land to be seen till entangled within the Reefs, 
and no Chart on which the dangers are correctly placed. 

We have therefore thought fit, for the above reasons, to 
have the Great Barrier Reef explored, and to have those 
gaps surveyed, in order that some means may be devised 


256 APPENDIX. 


for so marking the most eligible of these openings, that 
they may be recognised in due time, and passed through 
in comparative safety ; and having thought fit to entrust 
you with the command of an expedition to effect these 
objects, we hereby require and direct you to take her 
Majesty’s cutter Bramble under your orders, and when she 
and her Majesty’s ship Fly, under your immediate com- 
mand, shall be in every respect ready for sea, to proceed to 
the island of Madeira, to verify the rates of your Chrono- 
meters there, for which one day’s observations will probably 
suffice; then to Simon’s Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope, 
to complete your water; from thence to Van Diemen 
Land, where you will compare the observations made with 
your magnetic instruments with those made at the magnetic 
observatory by Lieutenant Kay; and then losing no further 
time, you are to repair to Sydney. 

Having refitted your vessels, recruited your provisions, 
and refreshed your crews, and having procured all the 
information respecting the Barrier Reefs and openings that 
can be obtained there, you will proceed to carry into exe- 
cution the following objects; and notwithstanding the order 
in which they are here placed, we leave the several periods 
of their performance to your own discretion. 

1. The survey of the exterior or eastern edge of that 
vast chain of reefs which extends almost continuously from 
Breaksea Spit to the shore of New Guinea. 

2. The thorough examination of all the channels through 
the Barrier chain, with detailed plans of those which offer 
a secure passage. 

3. When you have examined them all, and considered 
their several advantages and difficulties, and determined 
which of them will offer the speediest and safest passage for 
the generality of merchant vessels, you will endeavour to 
devise some practical means of marking them by beacons 


APPENDIX. 257 


of wood, or stone, or iron, so placed on their outer islands 
or cays, that they may serve to guide those vessels to a cer- 
tain, and safe landfall. On your return to Sydney, you 
will consult his Excellency, fhe Governor, on the best means 
of effecting this object, if possible, by means of the colonial 
resources, and you will transmit to our Secretary a full 
report on the subject. 

4. The position and dimensions of the several detached 
reefs and shoals which lie to the southward of the Great 
Barrier, and which appear, though with long intervals, to 
stretch towards Howe Island. 

5. The Bellona, Bampton, Mellish, and other reefs to 
the westward of New Caledonia, may be considered as one 
large group, and are probably the summits of a ridge of 
submarine hills, which, taking a parallel direction to the 
Barrier, form, between it and them, the wide sea channel 
of approach to the Barrier openings. All these rocks, as 
well as the Farquhars, must be explored and charted so as 
to define the eastern and western limits of that channel. 

6. In the more immediate mouth of Torres Strait, the 
reefs, islands, and intervening passages having been dis- 
covered at different periods, and laid down by different 
authorities, assume a most complicated appearance, but by 
carefully collating what has been done by Flinders, Bligh, 
King, and other navigators, you will probably succeed in 
fixing on some comparatively safe channels, by which vessels 
may pass through from the eastward, and you will consider 
this to be one of the most important objects of the expe- 
dition. 

7. In Torres Strait it does not appear that to the north- 
ward of Prince of Wales Islands any good channels will be 
found, and we do not wish that you should spend any 
valuable time there, nor even between them and Endeavour 
Strait; but of this latter strait, a complete survey, with its 

VOL. II. S 


258 APPENDIX. 


tides and soundings, with clear sailing directions, and with 
its dangers well distinguished by any sea-marks that can be 
adopted, will be a real boon to the mariner. 

These several objects above stated you are to consider 
as the main purport of the expedition under your command, 
and to those all others must give way; but as you will 
occasionally have to seek for wood and water, and as some 
seasons may be unfavourable to your rapid progress in those 
quarters, and a change of scene therefore desirable, you are 
to consider the field of your operations, as comprising the 
southern shore of New Guinea, and the south-western coasts 
and islands of Louisiade, and (if necessary for a magnetic 
station) the western side of New Caledonia. But wherever 
you go, we expect you to produce full and faithful surveys 
of the parts and places you visit, and we especially desire 
you not to waste your time and means in what are called 
running surveys, in which much work is apparently exe- 
cuted, but no accurate knowledge obtained, useful either to 
the mariner or the geographer. Whatever you do is to be 
done effectually. As we have not defined the order in 
which you are to undertake the several branches of the 
survey which have been enumerated, so neither shall we 
limit the periods at which you are to return to refit and 
re-victual at Sydney, being satisfied that your zeal will be 
properly tempered by discretion, and that your arrangements 
will be dictated, not only by the great. objects in view, but 
the health and comfort of the crews. We desire, however, 
that with prudent foresight, you will forward to our Secre- 
tary timely application for such supplies as may be requisite 
for the efficiency of the vessels under your command. 

As you have stated, that during a former voyage you 
remarked a more than ordinary population on the coast of 
New South Wales, about the latitude of 20°, from which 
you inferred a large tract of fertile soil, perhaps traversed 


APPENDIX. 259 


by some considerable river, you are hereby authorized, 
when engaged on the Barrier Reef in that latitude, to 
devote a week or two to the examination of that district. 

One of the most essential parts of your duty will be the 
compilation of sailing directions for the navigation of the 
whole space which you are instructed to survey ; as well as 
particular instructions for avoiding the dangers with which 
it is replete; for taking the several channels you may 
recommend ; and for entering the various ports or roads 
which you may visit—and those directions should include 
every circumstance that may be of use to the mariner, 
though not purely hydrographic ; for instance, the places 
where vessels may refuge after any serious disaster at sea, 
where spars may be cut, when and how water, wood, and 
other necessaries may be procured ; and, in short, the various 
resources which each place may afford. 

The effects of seasons, climates, and indigenous articles 
of food on the health of the crew, the peculiar products of 
the country, and the disposition of the inhabitants will also 
be subjects of great interest, as well as many others, which 
will readily occur to every officer who is zealous in obtaining, 
and desirous of benefiting mankind by communicating use- 
ful information. 

The most approved and costly instruments have been 
supplied to you for the purpose of pursuing those researcheg 
in magnetism, which have excited so much interest in 
Europe, and so much activity in all quarters of the world. 
And as certain of your officers have been specially in- 
structed in the mode of observing, you will take care to 
give them every fair opportunity of adding their contri- 
butions to this branch of science; whenever it may not 
cause any delay in the main objects of the expedition. You 
will also contrive, if possible, that the movements of her 
Majesty's ship may be so arranged as to be in some port 

s 2 


260 APPENDIX. 


in each of the four term days. A gentleman, well versed 
‘im geology has been appointed to the expedition, and we 
have permitted a botanist* employed by the Earl of Derby 
to accompany it. You will therefore give to both of them 
every facility to pursue those vocations whenever the 
business of the Survey may permit, and without retarding 
its progress: you will allow them also every reasonable 
assistance in forming and preserving their collections; and 
you will give them to understand that one perfect specimen 
of every kind is to be considered public property, and there- 
fore at the end of the voyage, or whenever they quit Her 
Majesty’s ship, to be at our disposal. 

Some books with which you have been supplied record 
the treacherous conduct of the natives of the small islands 
in Torres Strait; while those of New Guinea and the 
Louisiades bear a somewhat better character: but in all 
such places you should be equally on your guard. You 
will endeavour to preserve an amicable intercourse with 
them at all times. You should appear to forget their 
former crimes, and to caution your people against giving 
them any offence. When purchases are made, an officer 
should be present to prevent any misunderstanding ; and 
you are to impress on the minds of all under your command, 
the mischievous consequences of exciting the jealousy of 
the men, by taking any liberties with the females. It 
would be a subject of deep regret, that an expedition 
devoted to the noble purpose of acquiring and diffusing 
beneficial knowledge, should be stained by hostilities and 
bloodshed. 

In the event of England becoming involved in a war 
with any nation during your absence, you are to abstain 


* A mistake. Mr. Macgillivray, the gentleman employed by the 
Earl of Derby, was a zoologist; he is now naturalist of H. M.S. 
Rattlesnake. 


APPENDIX, 261 


from every act of aggression towards the ships or settlements 
of that nation, however prudently you may keep on your 
own guard, 

Expeditions undertaken on behalf of discovery and 
science have hitherto been considered by all civilized 
communities as acting under their general safeguard, and 
we trust that you will in all cases receive assistance from 
the ships and authorities of every foreign Power. Directions 
will be forwarded to the Commanders-in-chief at the Cape 
of Good Hope, and in the East Indies, and to the Governors 
or Lieutenant-Governors of the several settlements at 
which you have been ordered to call, to assist and further 
your operations as far as their means will admit. 

You are to consider yourself under the command of 
Vice-Admiral Sir William Parker, Commander-in-chief 
of Her Majesty’s Ships and Vessels on the East India 
station, while you are in the limits of that station, in 
execution of the services above mentioned; and we have 
signified to the Vice-Admiral our desire that he is not to 
divert you from the survey, nor to interfere with your 
proceedings ; but that whenever the occasion offers, you 
should receive from him and the officers of his squadron 
any assistance in stores and provisions of which you may 
stand in need. 

And during the whole time of your continuing on the 
above duties, you are (notwithstanding the 16th article 
of the 4th section of the 6th chapter, page 78 of the 
general printed instructions) to send brief accounts by 
every opportunity to our Secretary, of your proceedings, of 
your state and condition, and of the progress you have 
made ; and you will enclose therein detailed reports to our 
hydrographer, of all your proceedings relative to the Survey, 
as well as to your execution of the enclosed instructions, 


262 APPENDIX. 


which have been drawn up by him under our direction, 
and with which you are strictly to comply. 

In the event of any unfortunate accident happening to 
yourself, the officer on whom the command of the Fly may 
in consequence devolve, is hereby required and directed to 
complete, as far as in him lies, the foregoing orders and 
instructions. 


Given under our hands this 29th day of March, 1842. 


G. COCKBURN. 


W. GORDON. 
To 


Francis P. Buackwoop, Esq., 
Captain of H. M. S. Fly, at Devonport 


By command of their Lordships, 
J. BARROW. 


. 


APPENDIX. 2°63 


No. II. 


ABSTRACT OF THE VOYAGE. 
We sailed from Falmouth in H. M.S. Fly, in company 


with her tender the Bramble schooner, on Sunday after- 
noon, April 11th, 1842, and anchored at Funchal in the 
Island of Madeira on the following Sunday morning, 
April 18th. We remained here afew days to rate the 
chronometers, and then sailed to Teneriffe, where a party 
of us ascended the celebrated Pic de Teyde. We carried 
up a mountain barometer, and the mean of our observations 
gave 12,080 feet for its height above the sea. We left 
Teneriffe on May 3rd, and on May 9th touched for a few 
hours at Porto Praya in St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verde 
Islands. We crossed the equator on May 18th, and on the 
23rd hove to for a few hours, and landed on the little 
island of Trinidad. Thence we sailed to the Cape of Good 
Hope, where we anchored in Simon’s Bay on June 19th. 
We stayed here some time to refit and refresh, and also to 
compare our magnetic instruments with those of the 
observatory at Cape Town. We again sailed on July 14th, 
and on August 5th anchored under the little island of St. 
Paul’s, and visited the interior of the crater in our boats. 
On August the 27th, we entered Storm Bay in Van 
Diemen’s Land, and remained at Hobarton till October 6th. 
Then calling for a day or two at Port Arthur, we proceeded 
to Sydney, where we arrived on October 15th, and remained 
till November 24th. On November 26th, we entered Port 
Stephens, and having then completed our preparations and 
collected all the preliminary information we could acquire, 


264 APPENDIX. 


we sailed thence on December 17th to commence the 
survey. 

This was begun on December 21th at Sandy Cape by 
the examination of Breaksea Spit. From this point the 
survey was regularly carried on through the Capricorn 
Group of islands and Swain’s Reefs, up to lat. 21°. We were 
then obliged to go to Port Bowen to repair some damages. 
Here we remained from February 14th, 1843, to February 
28th, during which a detailed’ survey of the Port was. 
completed. ‘Thence we sailed through the Percy Islands 
to West. Hill, a little north of Broad Sound, where we 
found a supply of water, of which we were beginning to 
run short. ‘The Bramble had been dispatched to look for 
water, and found it in abundance a little north of Cape 
Hillsborough. ‘The coast from West Hill to the northern 
part of Whitsunday Passage was then surveyed, a part that 
had only been hastily sketched in by previous expeditions. 
On March 30th we anchored under Cape Upstart, where 
we remained the rest of that month, repairing the boats, 
and raising and decking the pinnace to enable hers to keep 
the sea during the surveying operations. 

We were joined at Cape Upstart by a vessel, the barque 
Willam, with a fresh stock of provisions and stores sent up 
from Sydney by previous agreement. We made several 
boat excursions during this time. On May !7th we sailed 
from Cape Upstart with the Bramble and the pinnace 
(now called the Midge) in company, and the next day 
anchored in Rockingham Bay, of which an accurate survey 
was completed by the end of the month. 

On June Ist we sailed to the northward, and after 
heaving to for an hour to look at Endeavour River, on June 
Ath, we anchored on the evening of that day under Lizard 
Island. Here was commenced the survey of the outer edge 
of the northern part of the Great Barrier Reef, which on 


. - 2s 
“i! 


APPENDIX. 265 


August 8th was completed up to the Murray Islands. On 
August 14th we left Torres Strait, touched for a few days 
at Port Essington, and at Coupang in the island of Timor 
to procure water and refreshments, and on September 30th 
anchored at Swan River, where we remained a month and 
then returned to Hobarton. 

The Bramble remained a fortnight after us at Swan 
River to complete her refitting, and endeavour to recover 
some deserters; and on sailing, her commander, Lieut. 
Yule, undertook to carry round some specie for the Colonial 
Government to King George’s Sound. In entering this 
port, and beating through the narrow entrance to the inner 
harbour, she unfortunately grounded on a rock, where she 
remained for four days. It blew hard during part of the 
time, and after suffering considerable damage to her bottom, 
she beat over it. She arrived safely, however, in Hobarton, 
though very leaky, was hove down at Port Arthur and 
partially repaired, but was obliged to be taken onto the 
patent slip on her arrival at Sydney. 

On January 8th of the year 1844, we left Hobarton 
again, and anchored at Sydney on the 13th. As Captain 
Blackwood had determined on the erection of a beacon on 
Raine’s Islet io mark the entrance of a good passage through 
the reefs, he, in obedience to his orders from the Admiralty, 
applied to the Colonial Government for assistance. The 
Colony, however, was in such a very depressed condition at 
that period, that the only assistance that could be afforded 
was the loan of twenty picked convicts, chiefly masons and 
quarry men, and of a small revenue cutter, the Prince 
George. The latter required much alteration, repair and 
refitting, before she could be adapted to the service. ‘This, 
together with the repairing of the Bramble, the purchasing 
and selecting and stowing away of the large quantity of 
material, tools, implements, wooden houses, &c., and the 


266 APPENDIX. 


increased quantity of provisions we required, detained us in 
Sydney till March 27th. We then sailed, and after 
touching at Port Stephens we rendezvoused at Sandy Cape, 
where we completed our water from an abundant supply 
immediately behind the beach, about seven miles within 
the point of the Cape. We then passed through the 
Capricorn Group, andthe Percy and Northumberland 
Islands, to Cape Upstart, making some additions to our 
previous surveys by the way. At Cape Upstart we again 
filled our tanks and water-casks, and after experiencing a 
good deal of blowing weather along the north-east coast, 
we commenced landing the stores on Raine’s Islet on 
May 27th. As soon as the party was landed, and the 
houses and tents put up, a quarry was opened at the east 
end of the island, near the spot selected for the erection of 
the beacon. ‘The stone was a coral rock, an agglutinated 
mass of grains and fragments of corals and shells; it worked 
easily into square blocks, and promised to be sufficiently 
durable. The lime was procured by burning the large 
shells of the tridacna and hippopus, which were to be got 
in abundance from the reef at low water. One or two wells 
were sunk in the island, but no fresh water was procured; 
although in one of the wells, at a depth of 16 feet, the 
water was only brackish, and could be used to slack the 
lime, although very unpalatable to the taste. As there 
was no anchorage near the island, the Fly had to lie about — 
12 miles off to the south-west, behind the reefs of the 
Barrier, and the Bramble, the Prince George, the Midge 
and the boats were employed in running backwards and 
forwards with provisions, stores, wood and water. Wood 
had to be sought for on some of the islands near the main, 
as large quantities were used in burning the lime; and 
water was procured from Sir Charles Hardy’s Islands, 
where small dams had been erected at the end of the 


APPENDIX. 267 


valleys to catch all that trickled down them. Beams of 
wood, required in building, were procured from the wreck 
of the Martha Ridgway, which was lying on the reefs some 
25 miles to the southward of the Fly’s anchorage. By the 
middle of September the party on Raine’s Islet, which was 
under the charge of Lieut. (now Commander) Ince, had 
completed the beacon. ‘This was erected after the design 
of Mr. Moore, the carpenter of the Fly. It is a circular 
stone tower, 40 feet high and 30 feet in diameter at the 
base, where the wails are five feet thick. Internally it 
was divided into three stories, each of which was partially 
floored, and made accessible by a ladder. It was roofed at 
top by a dome-shaped frame of wood, covered by painted 
canvass, Its summit was thus raised 70 feet above low 
water mark. A large tank taken from the Martha Ridgway 
was placed at the side, into which a series of spouts were 
led from the roof, so that it would shortly be filled with 
rain water. Cocoa-nuts, supplied by Mr. Macleay of 
Sydney from his hothouse, pumpkins, maize, and other 
plants were set in a garden, and had begun to grow and 
flourish when the Fly left. During the latter part of this 
time, from August 14th to September 25th, the Bramble 
was employed surveying Endeavour Strait, and a good 
part of the ground between Endeavour Strait and Raine’s 
Islet opening was likewise surveyed by the Fly, the Prince 
George, and the boats. An abundant supply of water was 
discovered at Cape York, which was then and afterwards 
very useful to us. 

On September 21st the Fly left Endeavour Strait, 
touched at Port Essington on the 27th, remaining five or 
six days, and then sailed for Sourabaya in the island of 
Java. She arrived there on Oct. 19th, and was shortly 
joined by the Bramble and Prince George. The latter 
was dispatched to Singapore, to carry up some shipwrecked 


~68 APPENDIX. 


people whom we had picked up among the reefs, and to 
carry and receive letters and dispatches. She returned to 
Sourabaya on January 4th. 

On January 14th, 1845, the Fly and the Bramble sailed 
from Sourabaya to return to Torres Strait with the north- 
west monsoon, leaving the Prince George to follow as soon 
as she had completed her refitting. We had very heavy, 
weather at first. After a vain attempt to pass through the 
Strait of Lombock, owing to the strength of the current 
setting to the northward, we got through those of Alass and 
again reached Port Essington on January 27th. On 
February 4th we sailed for Endeavour Strait, and anchored 
in the entrance of it on the 10th, We had light winds 
and pleasant weather in this passage from Alass Strait to 
Torres Strait during the north-west monsoon. From this 
time to April 19th we were engaged in surveying the central 
and north-eastern parts of Torres Strait, and succeeded in 
laying down an excellent track for shipping round the 
northern extremity of the Great Barrier Reef through the 
inner reefs and islands, to the entrance of Endeavour 
Strait. On April 19th the Bramble was sent to try to 
make her way along the eastern coast of Australia to 
Sydney. ‘This being against the trade wind had only been 
twice attempted before, once in the Zenobia by Captain 
Lihou, who succeeded with great difficulty, and once this 
very season by a schooner called the Heroine, Captain 
McKenzie, the success of whose attempt we were as yet 
unaware of. Lieut. Yule not only succeeded, but added 
120 miles to the Survey of the Barrier Reef, continuing it 
from Lizard Island to the southward as far as lat. 16° 40°. 

In the mean time the Fly and Prince George went to 
explore a part of the coast of New Guinea, to the northward 
and eastward of Torres Strait. Having surveyed as much 
of this as was possible, owing to the difficult and dangerous 


APPENDIX. 269 


nature of the navigation and other untoward circumstances, 
we were obliged, on June 2nd, to close our labours from 
want of provisions, and proceed to Port Essington for a 
supply. 

We arrived at Port Essington on June 12th, and found 
here about 70 people who had been wrecked in coming up 
from Sydney to Torres Strait. These formed the principal 
part of the crews and passengers of two large merchant 
vessels, the Hyderabad and the Coringa Packet. They 
had reached Port Essington in their boats. As the small 
military post of Port Essington could not support this 
population long, and no other vessel was likely to put in for 
some months, we were under the necessity of carrying them 
up to Singapore. The Prince George, after being partially 
refitted, was sent round to Sydney, taking a few of the 
wrecked prople who wished to return there; and on June 
18th we sailed with the remainder in the Fly, and arrived 
at Singapore on July 5th. 

Sir Thomas Cochrane, the Admiral of the station, being 
now at Malacca, we went up there to communicate with 
him, and then returned to Singapore. 

We left that place on August 3rd, and beat down against 
the trade wind through the Strait of Banca to Anjer in the 
Strait of Sunda, where we remained August 19th, and 
sailed on the 20th. ‘The south-east trade carried us to 
south lat. 30° 15’, east long. 89° 05’, on August 31st, 
whence strong south-west winds took us into Bass’s Strait 
and thence to Sydney, where we anchored on September 
25th. We here found orders awaiting us, directing the 
Fly to come home, but Lieut. Yule in the Bramble to 
continue the Survey, with, if possible, a colonial vessel as 
her consort, under the command of Mr. now Lieut. Aird. 
The Fly having rubbed her bottom against some of the 
coral reefs was hove down and examined, and a small 


270 APPENDIX. 


schooner, called the Castlereagh, was purchased for the 
Government, and fitted out as the Bramble’s consort. 
These arrangements detained us till December 19th, when 
we left Sydney on our voyage home. We passed through 
Bass’s Strait, and touched in at Port Phillip on Decem- 
ber 19th, and remained till January 11th, 1845. On 
January 15th we anchored in Holdfast Bay, South Australia, 
and remained till the 22nd. On February 10th, after a 
stormy passage with strong contrary winds in rounding 
Cape Leeuwin, we anchored in Gage’s Roads, Swan River, 
and remained a week. On February 19th we sailed, 
having Mr. Hutt, the late Governor of Western Australia, 
as a passenger, and arrived in Simon’s Bay, Cape of Good 
Hope, on April 6th. On April 15th we again sailed, 
touched at St. Helena on April 30th, and anchored at 
Spithead on June 19th, after an absence from England of 
four years and eleven weeks. 

The results of the voyage may be briefly stated as 
follows :— | 

The surveying and charting of the sea stretching north- 
wards from Sandy Cape as far as lat. 21°, including the 
Capricorn Group of islands, the widely spread mass of the 
Swain’s Reefs and the broad passage between them, and the 
plan of Port Bowen. This is a tract 200 miles in length 
and in some part 100 in breadth. 

The survey of the coast of the main land and the adjacent 
sea from West Hill to the northern part of Whitsunday Pas- 
sage. This coast line is about 110 miles long. 

The survey of Rockingham Bay. 

The survey of the outer line of the Great Barrier Reef 
from lat. 16° 40’ to its extremity in lat. 9° 20’, a distance of 
nearly 500 miles. The survey of some part of the sea 
outside this line, and of large portions of that inside of it, 
or between it and the main land, | 


APPENDIX. 271 


The erection of the beacon on Raine’s Islet as a mark 
for the best passage through the outer line of reefs. 

The survey of Endeavour Strait and of all the eastern 
portion of Torres Strait from Cape York to the coast of 
New Guinea, a tract that may be stated as 100 miles in 
length by 60 or 70 in width, and crowded with separate 
reefs and islands. 

The survey of 140 miles of the coast of New Guinea, | 
with its wide spread banks of shoal soundings, and the 
mouths of some of the numerous freshwater channels which 
intersect that coast in every direction. 

In addition to these hydrographical surveys and the 
astronomical observations necessary for their correction and 
completion, magnetic observations of various kinds were 
taken as opportunity offered, both at sea and on shore. 

Lieut. now Commander Shadwell had charge of these 
observations, and has communicated to me the following 
remarks. ‘‘ Many of these observations only derive their 
“value from a comparison with those of other observers 
“‘and are not capable of any immediate popular result. © 
“‘ In connection with other observations now in progress they 
*“‘ will probably at some future period be discussed by Col. 
“‘ Sabine, R.A., to whose zeal and ability the task of reducing 
“the observations of the Ordnance and naval magnetic 
“ observations is confided by H.M. Government. 

“The following Table of the dip and variation of the 
“magnetic needle at various places touched at during the 
“‘ voyage may be perhaps of some interest to the reader.” 


972 


APPENDIX. 


TABLE OF THE MacGnetic Dip AND VARIATION 


At several places visited in the Voyage of H. M.S. Fly, principally 
on the Coasts of Australia and parts adjacent. 


Station. 


ee 


Falmouth, 
Mr. R. W. Fox’s garden, 
Madeira, 

British Consul’s house 
Teneriffe, Santa Cruz, 
Comdt. of Marine’s garden 
Cape of Good Hope, 
Magnetic Observatory . 

Same place ...... 
Cape of Good Hope, 
Simon’s Bay, near the fort 
Same place...... 
Western Australia, 
Freemantle, 
Harbour master’s garden. 
Same place...... 
South Australia, 
Glenelg, near Adelaide 
(near the Flagstaff) .. 
Port Phillip, 
William’s Town, 
Harbour master’s garden 
Tasmania, Hobarton, 
Magnetic observatory . 
Same place ...... 
Tasmania, Port Arthur 
Commandant’s garden . 
Same place.....- 
New South Wales, 


Same place ecccee 
Same place...... 
New South Wales, 
Port Stephens, 
Captain King’s garden . 
Same place...... 
N.E. Coast of Australia, 
Sandy Cape...... 
Same place...-e. 
N. E. Coast of Australia, 
Port Bowen, 
Clinton Bay ...eee. 
N. E. Coast of Australia, 
Cape Upstart .... 
Same place .....- 
N. E. Coast of Australia, 
Rockingham Bay, 
Gould Island .... 
N. E. Coast of Australia, 
Lizard Island 
Same place.... 


Sydney harbour, 
Garden Island ... 


Date. 


—s 


April 1842 
April 1842 
May 1842 


July 1842 
April 1846 


July 1842 
April 1846 


Oct. 1843 
Feb. 1846 


Jan. 1846 


Jan. 1846 


Sep. 1842 
Dec. 1843 


Oct. 1842 
Jan. 1844 


Nov. 1842 
Feb. 1844 
Nov. 1845 


Nov. 1842 
Mar. 1844 
Jan. 1843 
April 1844 
Feb. 1843 
April 1843 
May 1844 


May 1843 


.| June 1843 


May 1844 


Dip. 


69° 1 .5'N. 
60° 2’.3 N. 


57° 17’.2N. 


53° 20/.2 8. 
538° 314.2 S. 


53° 22’.48. 


53° 311.48. 


62° 43.7 8. 


63° 6’S. 


| 65° 28/.48. 


66° 57’.5S. 


70° 37'.28. 
70° 37'.28. 


q1?2 2'.2. 5. 
fie ie! fare eee 


62° 37'.2 S. 


62° 44.78. 


62° 31’.2S. 
61° 23/.2.8. 
61° 28’.8 8. 
52° 23’.58. 
52° 24’.8 S. 
50° 16’, §. 
47° 15’.8 8. 
47° 13/.6 8. 
45° 1S. 


39° 24’.7 S. 
39° 34’.4 8. 


| 


) 


| Variation. 


6° 16’ BE. 


8° 33’ E. 
9° 43’ E, 


9° 25’ E. 


9° 45’ K. 


7° 50’ E. 


8° 50’ E. 
6° 58’ E. 


6° 53’ E. 
6° 50’ E. 


Remarks. 


GE ee ee 


Lat. 82°. 3’ 8. 


- | Long. 115° 47’ E. 


Lat. 34° 57’ S. 
Long. 138° 33’ E. 


Lat. 37° 52". 
Long. 144° 56’ E. 


Lat. 43° 9/8. 
Long. 147° 58’ E. 


Lat. 32° 40'S. 
Long. 152° 2’ E. 


Lat. 24° 43/S. 
Long. 153° 15’ E. 


Lat. 22° 31'S 
Long. 150° 49’ E. 
Lat. 19° 43’ S. 
Long. 147° 50’ E. 


Lat. 18° 9S. 
Long. 146° 14’ E, 
Lat. 14° 39’ S. 
Long. 145° 32’ E. 


os 


APPENDIX. 273 
Station. D ate. Dip. Variation. | Remarks. 
N. E. Coast of Australia, Lat. 11° 56’ S. 
Sir C. Hardy’s Islands. | July 1843 | 35° 29’.7 S. Long. 143° 39’ E, 


Same place......| May 1844 | 35° 31’.68. | 3° 12’. E. 
N. E. Coast of Australia, | 
Barrier Reefs, | Bat. TIS 35s) 


Raine’s Islet ....| June 1844} 35° 1’.28. | 4° 0’ E. | Long. 144° 6’,E, 
Torres Strait, Lat. 10° 39" S: 


Mount Adolphus....| Aug. 1843 | 33° 46’.2S.| 4° 0’E. | Long. 142° 40’ E. 
Same place......}| Aug. 1844 | 33° 50’ S. 


Torres Strait, Lat. 9° 35’ S. 

Erroob Island ....| April 1845 | 32° 6’.2S. Long. 143° 45’ E, 
N. Coast of Australia, 

Port Essington Lat. 11° 7’ S. 
Victoria ......| Feb. 1845 | 35° 21’.48.| 2° 10’ E. | Long. 132° 12’ E, 

Java, Lat. 7° 14’ S. 
Sourabaya ...... Nov. 1844] 28° 48’S. | 0° 58’ E, | Long. 112° 43’ E. 

Singapore, Late l* 16 


Magnetic Observatory .| July 1845 | 12°34’S. | 1°56’ E. | Long. 103° 53’ E, 
| 


In the department of Natural History all the results of 
the voyage have not yet been arrived at. The zoological 
collections, amounting to between 4 and 5000 specimens, 
were principally placed at the disposal of the Zoological 
Department of the British Museum, and such things as 
were new or interesting were selected by the officers of that 
department, by whom they will ultimately be arranged and 
described. : 

The Geological collections were similarly submitted to 
the Geological Society of London, by whose curator, Mr. 
Sowerby, the most desirable specimens were selected for 
the society. 

My own observations on the Geology of the countries we 
visited, are either embodied in the present work or will be 
laid before the Geological Society. 


VOL. Il. © 


274 APPENDIX. 


No. IIT. 


COMPARATIVE VOCABULARY 


OF THE 
LANGUAGES 


OF 


SOME PARTS OF TORRES STRAIT. 


In this Vocabulary, the column headed “ Lewis’s 
Murray Island” was taken from a copy of one that I 
believe was made by Mr. Lewis when commanding the 
Isabella in search of the survivors of the “ Charles Eaton.” 
He had the advantage of having young Ireland as an 
interpreter, who had resided two years upon the island. 
The vocabulary, however, seemed to have been carelessly 
compiled, as there was no kind of arrangement in it, 
alphabetical or otherwise; neither had any system of 
orthography been adhered to, as the same word was often 
spelt in different ways. It has, no doubt, suffered also by 
the errors of the transcribers. The copy from which ours 
was taken was procured by Mr. Evans from Captain 
Ashmore of Sydney, who lent it us for transcription. I 
subsequently arranged it on the same plan as our own, and 


APPENDIX. 275 


have given it in parallel columns, without altering any of 
the words. 

Our own vocabulary was almost entirely collected by 
Mr. Millery of the Fly, who, to great diligence and acute- 
ness in collecting the words, added an excellent musical ear 
for appreciating their correct sound. I transcribed his 
vocabulary, and made some additions of my own, at the 
same time slightly altering the system of orthography, 
in order to make it, as I believe, more precise, and more 
easy to be understood. Instead of marks of accentuation, 
which are always liable to mistake, | have, when necessary, 
put marks of quantity over the vowels. By numbering 
the words, I have been able easily to refer from one part of 
the vocabulary to the other, by appending the number 
of the word I wish to refer to. In this manner the 
composition, or derivation of the words, is often pomted 
out. 

Respecting the grammatical structure of the language, 
we, of course, could learn little or nothmg. It is re- 
markable, however, in the 800 words included in the 
vocabulary, how many compositions can be resolved, and 
derivations detected. In a vocabulary of about 500 words, 
collected by Mr. Macgillivray at Port Essington,* hardly a 
single derivation, or any other kind of relation, could be 
perceived between one word and another; while, from 
what we see in this vocabulary, we have reason to expect 
that there is hardly an expression for a compound or 
derived idea in the Erroobian language but what the 
composition or derivation can be traced in the expression. 

The appropriateness of the sound to the meaning is also 


* Mr. Macgillivray has now returned to the shores of Australia and 
New Guinea, as Naturalist to H.M.S. Rattlesnake, under Captain Owen 
Stanley. His vocabulary will, therefore, probably be published on the 
completion of that voyage, with additions and improvements. 


rT 2 


276 APPENDIX. 


often very remarkable, as in “ aress,” to strike, to fight, 
war; “ sarreg,” to shoot with a bow; “ essomi,” to suck ; 
“diskayer,” to shake; “nakesimu,” or “ecasmy,” to 
split; “debelli,’” good, handsome; “kib kib,” blunt; 
“* goobin goobin,” soft. 

The enunciation of the Torres Strait islanders is re- 
markably clear and distinct, a point in which their speech 
greatly differs from that of most of the Australians, who 
have always more or less of a jabber. 

There are no peculiar sounds in the language of the 
islanders, if we except a rather peculiar pronunciation of 
the “d” or the “dz,” in which a kind of aspirate is some- 
times heard. This sound might sometimes be represented 
by “dh,” sometimes by “dz,”? and sometimes by “ th,” 
or even by the English “j,” as m John, where there is 
also a dental sound. They seemed to have all the sounds 
of the English language, except that I never heard those 
of F, G soft, X, or Y consonant. 

The islanders always took much pleasure in teaching us 
their language, and shewed a great readness in compre- 
hending our signs, and great aptitude for giving us infor- 
mation—qualities in which they likewise contrasted 
favourably with the careless, apathetic, and easily tired 
Australian natives. 


APPENDIX. 277 


In this Vocabulary the following rules are observed in 
the spelling of the words, except in the column marked 
“¢ Lewis’s Murray Island,’ which is left in its original 
state :— 

1. Every letter is sounded. 
2. The vowels are sounded as follows :— 


a is sounded like a in father. 


a ”» 29 a ,, fat.* 
we tr" 5. nm @. s. fate. 
e or ee >  €@ 4, Weed. 
€ ” ” e 5, wed. 
1 ” ” 1 5 pine. 
t »” ey) 1 5, pin.t 
Oo a an O. ;;.. Cold. 
0 2” 2 O 5, Cot. 
u te a we, fall 
u ey) ” ui, cup. 
OOK ts . 55 By) OGe 55 NOR: 
al ” 2” Y » Cry- 
GW 55 OW 55 COW: 
ae % al ,, gain. 


3. Of the consonants, g and c are always hard; ch always 
soft, as in church; zh has a sound like dz, or tz, or jz. 

4, The accent or quantity is marked by the long °, and 
the short ©. 

5. The numbers after a word are to direct the reader’s 
attention to the words in other parts of the vocabu- 
lary on the line to which the numbers refer. These 
often point out the derivations or compositions of 
words. 


* When a is final it is scarcely heard, and in conversation it is sometimes 
used and sometimes not. 

¢ i when final is much the same as e in sound, and they might be used 
one for the other. 


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jiGco. |) 2 hail Se eee : : : : : : RG) soi) ) suosng | 66 
$993 e. 
-OUL IO d0IyoU saoyow | dOIU 10 syey | FG 


nsnul 


dogoo ‘Ait 
-uoSeap “210q 


APPENDIX. 


Td.iem | 
“‘npiq “toqynp 


OOLIBM 


“NGHIT LUOg 


284 


“Aye puz 


, 2aqqas..o ‘aeqqas 


1911 
xofuseq | ° aogey ‘ ‘ . : ; 
Aguuos 


eosaLreu 


tunftaq 


te 8 npzq ‘idem idem IVE] 
ILOSSA ‘SSGa — 
‘ueeUu 


undsouund 
ooqyey 


OOM OOLIPM 


“£PIVT 181] 


‘MuOX FdVO 


“aNV1S] 


‘om ‘aaassv [A AVUUATA, SSIAaT 


I96B0U 
Bkey 
s901008 
pce 
JaG119¥ 
winzIeq 
422] 
Jada 
tdoo 
(¢¢Z) doo} 
adem 


wiados 
OO.1LIeO 


‘USV]] GNV doouNy 


rapidg x831 
Apaoyng | 831 
yovoryo0Q | LoL 
wy | 9e6l 
oymbsnyq | SZT 


ALT | 31 
ysy-Aerg | S31 
Qelo-X0g | ZZT 

qety | 131 
Ysy-23ND | O3T 
yreqs | 6TI 

uy Teroyood — | g{T 
ug [esiop — | £TI 
prey — | 911 

ems — | ¢t1 

USA | VI 


aM, | S11 
Peery | eit 

toPPYy. | LEE 

(onjq) wore fT | OLT 
M2TIND | GOL 


*HSITONG ‘ON 


285 


al 
_ 
a 
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<a 
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Ay 
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nyoe 


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Bypoyany 


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{weou 100ssou 


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*MOLIB UB IO} JBY} PU PJOM SIT} JO PUNOS ay} UddaMZoq DOUAJAYIP ‘Au JI 91991] SI a1OyT, + 
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opty at “Bore N 


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Bd29] 


psoowvu 
‘op 

iosredoo 

daaysas 

IOVGGB 

B.laZpa 

ooo 

ssev 

sse 

ssB 

pyod 

dpyout 

vow 

weoogng 


prepa 
(91) p22] 
wovu 


: ° 


snuog 


UINIYFLIOD 


UUNLIR]OG 


PH 


‘ds 1syjzour — 


oqiny, 
OPIN 
BYLION 
SISSBI) 
B[noLMy 
xan] 


‘ds yjews — 


snsie — 
veeidicg 
BMAQ 
snyiqne Ny 


TPXs 
asno'y 


ela | 


6FL 
SFI 
LPl 


OFT 
ctrl 
VPI 
SFI 
oP 
Gal 
OFI 
6ST 
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SSI 


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Tél 
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APPENDIX. 


ee 


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*NOHIT 1u0g 


286 


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e ° e e ® e e 
. e e e e e e 


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“uuOX Tdvg 


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Seniéean 


‘op 


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49 ‘op 

BQ MOULIO ‘q MOU 

51} 
Ioossoul 
raedas-aaedas 
JoVIOy 
‘op 
Teuuva 
nosIamM 
‘op 
‘op 
1OV qeut 
oul 
SVLIEM 
eqoulo 


‘udVI, GNV agoouug 


vuathy | TLT 
snus, | OLT 
sotoods pug — | 69T 
eure | Sot 
BSsOon 
vlepournsueg | J9T 


SIqioy) | 99T 
vary | SOT 
BIQOIAY | POT 
euuld | £91 
eULopoyWy | Z9T 
BuveplLly, LOL 
styoTey | O9T 
SNQUIO.I}G | GST 
BIPAL | SST | 
Binqng | Let 
‘ds pug — | 9ST | 
UOULY, | SST 
snsnj | PST | 
ynadg | ect 
Byng | Sst 
PATIO | IST 
uintjog | OST 


*HSIIONY "ON 


ee ee eee el 


287 


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= 
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x 
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90ul prey ind} ° . : (681) {seuto0o] 12502 dL], VW 
‘WHHL OL ONIONOTAA SONIH], GNV ‘SENVIG—'TI] 
aka ss ay ey : : : : ; : MOUL IO ‘MOUL po22Mveag 
qes asuodg 
NSIZ19U eLouny — 
| rewo.imq |payouriq pot — 
Mesut = : SOA SOA IOYZ peop [e109 
wW21a32U snulyoq 
avqe Ysyaryg 


(79) xj0d 
TORI fe sen ; . ° . ° ° ‘ 
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‘op 

udva 

ooppnut 


Toys eayeatun 
jo wmyjno1dg 
BAPVIN 

— 00300g 
BIULOUYy 

133849 

‘ds pug “vary 


161 
O61 
681 
SgI 
{81 
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€8T 
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IST 
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641 
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941 
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(94) peer 
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gjd.md 
‘goyeyod 429M | 60 
yool puz — | 80% 
mex | L0Z 


poa1 10 suey | 902 
aUvd-IVSNG | GOS 


queyd 
po}oor snoqng |. F0Z 
adeis pILM | £02 
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gary UME) | 103 
90.1} puruLIaddeg | 00 
99.1} DAOLSURTL | 66T 


SIABIT 
[]e@ Us 441M ‘99.13 
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Je2] — | L61 
yy 
® 99.13 snuepueg] 96T 
1leys — | S61 
ysny — | r6t 


yn “ynU-B090D | S6I 
je] urequelg | Z61 


*“HSITONG ‘ON 


289, 


APPENDIX. 


weped ‘L11eq 


‘MMOABH [[B 480] 1 Pop Way ynq “19Sul8 oy]] poysey pue oy] payxooy “ysoz UOYA “Joor styg, || 


“uIaYy} peonpord yoryA puvyst uv 0} ZITA 48.44 INO UO 


Joos 


eyiou| * 


joos 


yosurey 

IIVU 

(TFL) qeyooy 
qes 

TIVO 


dooppas 


yaTyeyour 
yeoyou 


*8}001 9 
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“SUIYOUIS UdYA UI OddeqO} OY) der 0} pasn s 
sn poznyes skemze Aoyy yorya yy L109 aq} 8 


° e e 


Joos ‘areu 


(14) qe 
1180 
doopas 
daviaq 


ByOVUL 


‘09 “SHUNLOVAANVI, ‘SSINTNATANT GAILVN— AT 


. . ef 
qooons 


adevy 
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vf | ASooy 10 AZoos 
qoosoos 


qooons 


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NSTB.MOD 
qooons 

|| Hoxe.t18y 
qpo.10 


YI] MBA yo Ayatrea yeoa3 B sem arayy, 
Jo jeay podeys 


§ 


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‘Op JO WLIO; 
a0uRD 

P°d 

Naan | 

90U0,T 

uspsery) 

Ps 

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qos pug — 


BM 991} SIG} JO Jeo] oT, + 
BM j Ieu00g j Wieuoog 


II. 


VOL. 


[noq | ° : : reods-Ystq | 963 
(St) doo,| smom-Surysty | hz 

§.1moq reads-aj,1nJ, | FPS 

kqqep | tqeyz 10 ‘qqep qeads 18 AA | SF 


qooseq qnjo 
qesoqqes |-v3 “esooqrses | papesy 303g | ZFS 
eyovyeo yore | ° : . yee readg | [#Z 

PI 
| yoopeo |-ULIe 10%4apyUNey | OFZ 
1aqooq jo qaeq — | 6E% 
| davy sanb | papeoy peorq — | ges 
4 Sn | aa ra 1 See yoryeo deo davy MOLLY | LEG 
a B42] Suis — | 9¢Z 
= Mpegs * = 8 Saree eoed | * : ‘ B2LTes MOG | C&S 
= rt oe a a a pee oom Be] BUT adoy | FEZ 
< taed “reed | ° : : iloyouy | €&3 
19Z00 IaqYZO0o soTppeg | SEs 
eiopoou diey | * , ? ueziut — | [EZ 
Blapooul teuIIay | * : : ureut — | O€3 
-apoourzjoqor1ou | (CZ) 3etepou aI0F [Ie | 6ZS 
ei] assBloy | * : : ureul — | 933 
yooq os Asuow} * : , 310} — | 133 
LISsos wISSas SPIN | 93S 

“A1eq puz “AVI S| *aNVIST 

‘AOHI] LLOQ | 929 ‘QaaSSVIN AVUUN SSIMAIT | "UAV, GNV soouUT *HSITONG "ON 


*MuOK TdVO 


290 


*adR[OoU B OyYLU 0} SulIys V UO Sunsys pu ‘prdodord sy {Yo Voyorq uoYAs ‘YONA ‘[[aYs DATO []eUIs & Jo do} sy} 40J DUIeT OY} SI SOON f 

“purges pazrerd @ oyuo A[YOrYy poudysvy aie sodiys oy, yea, ureyuryd ay} Jo aprsut ayy uTosy 
‘sodi1j8 MOJIVU JO SI OOSSvU {STIS BY} {SoAVaT PLO. YA ‘paqoor snoqging ‘19e530} parvo yueld B Jo sadrys proaq Jo opeul st 100sseU susmMOA ayy, || 
*poxy sf Sad afqiny @ ‘oaarjaq J ‘ory As OFUT ‘peay yung punot & YyLA ‘SuOT yoaz ua} JO 4 Sro st sty, § 
*SOATISUIOY} FI OSN },UOP SiopULISI OY} ,.f Oode ,, 41 parjeo Aay} YOK edeg Wo Yous Suraoiyy v uaoys Saroqg ug t 

*“BULI}S“M0q yy JO 
punoger ay} Woy We 4g} puajap 0} Satoq asn $71 ‘MOQTO OY} 0} YSIIA OY} WlOIJ UI 4JO] 9Y} UO 4YSI s}g 4 “ssvaS payreid Suo1s jo opew sr sry, } 
*SUI}JVU JO OPCW OAV S[Ies IY, » 


| [pS009 | speaq jo surg | 79g, 
TyVIOM Us AG WIOMSI AA! 193! 5 


291 


“ 
| IOOSsou ||toosseu | -oA\ Fo yeoor}}9g | 09Z 
: (jh Sai et a ae : : : nstey |  ]]aYSostozoy, | 6S 
re | (9) woos Wai0y qutoo — | gcz 

5 | duvy 
* liqniep | * : ; lzq-nzep | -smof ooquieg | loz 
Py doo1iem wnIp dAVN | 96g 
n yoorey jo [Mog — | Sgz|! 
| qqoareut qooo00s qooyz| odid ooqug | gz) 

| JOC 
(9¢P7) dad Avu} toy = Yseqeieg | e¢z 
(633) vigpoutr WIA | SSS 

qoxyood 
2s aes agye | * : , tadda viedo ‘eda | 10 “Seq “ayseg | [SZ 
| ovia} | MOLIeU — —|QGz 
S219M | PIM “oyseq — | GES 

| povy ‘ures 

“WRSYTYOU | -yaxyout “Sele aul] — | Shs 


a yryour yaxjau | yooy — | LbZ 


APPENDIX. 


292 


“NOHIT LUOg 


“AWIVq puz 


‘MuOK TIdVO 


e 


“Aye 81 


029 ‘agassv I 


Q1Vseu 


sprppeo 


"aNVIST 
AVUUAP SSIMAT 


ssid 
-u0M 6(9Z) Amory 


BIOPOUL 131098 


ZeIDM 


(cp) Mou nga 


ree Te 


{aseut 10 ‘Avu 
yom 
ejood 
(FE) 
(J) ese] eyeur 
onut 
BoOnUL 14.108} 


onu vonul 


“UaVy, GNV aoouuy 


aaa a ee ee 


Ysey | HLS 
‘Op 0} 
sseis poyreyd 
jo orenbs [eurg | ¢12Z 
BdBTYOON | LS 
quauL 
-eulo-189 [Tay | 1L3 
uIOIS 
I9A0 U.IOM [JOYS 
pedeys pparyg | 0L2 
‘op 
‘Jays UOUIUIOD | 693 
quoweUu 
-10 ][eYs-[1eIg | 89 
IPIIH | £96 
*P[ULTY | 993 
Bee 
“O10F LOZ PTA | G9 
ypuy | $93 
A) 6) 
-I19 [eyUITUVUIGO | €9Z 
*HSTTONGY "ON 


293° 


*SPpIOM Osa} JO JNO Suiyjou oyvul uvdT |, 
ce FEE 5, 10 ,,“pvolq ,, ‘aaarjaq | ‘suvaut saan% || 
ce} yy BUIOUNOUOI UT Aj[NOWIp B aavy Aoyy { sjassoa Surssed wosy dn poyord prom Vy § 
“MBS IO IJIUY [[PYSOSTOJ10} opna B Aq 4Nd SL ATeY dy} BSNBdEq pI][Bo Os ATGqeqorg + 
‘qJoouIs punois pue ‘yno 4nd ‘sIsseo 
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*MOQ]® JY} DANG ULOA SSVIS pazie[d Jo puvq & sI SIUT, 


pmoy 
eredes | Adoo vumep viedes qoyoze Ty] | 8 
odreu | yd1[004 ||4aanb Sodreu aFlUy | 8S 
4 1100} ‘tp00} “1.1004 YOI[OO} | YII[Oo} ‘aa1100}4 uo] | [83 
A 
2 ‘SHTOILUY Nvadouny—' A 
A, 
Pl 
jeooreyo 
wemot | = a. . . ° : . : say | 10 ‘op yorrg | 08s 


psoas | yuoutsid oy A | 6L3 
Javut | yured a1yoo poy | 81g 

speoy 

SUouIOM U0 
(63) {nstey | yo] ey joospry | LZ 

Mopeyo JopTnoys 
(ysvoaq ae ae Teulgo0d | * ; ; MOULQOD | UO atin vat 91z 
NO1993] YS SON | GLZ 


APPENDIX. 


ENGLIsH. 


Erroos anp Marr. 


EvuROPEAN ARTICLES—continued. 


_ 


Lewis’s Murray 
IsLanD. 


PS 


284 | Spoon *caip toolick 
285 | Scissors koomas-koomas 
| toolick 
286 | Sword ow naipo (510) | ttaiboo ow toolick 
(282) 
287 | Musket sarreg (235) sarrick 
288 | Pistol kabbi sarreg (513) 
289 | Cannon : : ; maag 
290 | Carpenter’s saw {tteerick teerick 
| toolick 
291 | Spike nail soaf toolick 
292 | Glass . perper (369) 
293 | — bottle tarpoor 
294 | — looking perper 
295 | Ship Shippo, or ow | lummanarg (224) 
shippo (356) 
296 | Boat kabbi shippo, or | cabbynar 
kabbinar 
297 | Mast sesseri 
298 | Oar oozher | 
299 | 'Tobacco soocoob|| soogoob, or soo- ; 
coob 4 
300 | — pipe of clay burar,{ tarcok soocoob mairebb ) 
301 | Powder and shot | pee** pee 
302 | Cloth, clothes wallee, or wally | wally 
303 | Blankets ++moos moos wal- 
lee (28) 
304 | Hat : : kerrim looftt 
305 | Jacket geam wally (77) 
306 | Neckcloth perhaig wally (33) 
307 | Paper lee an wally 
308 | Dress Tyne 
309 | P ockets R : heppai (251) 
1310 | Watch tic a tic 


* Caip is their word fora kind of bivalve shell, used by them as a spoon, so 
that caip toolick is ‘‘ iron shell.” 

+ Literally ‘‘ belly big iron,” or “ large iron worn at the waist.” 

¢ Properly, I believe, “ tirreg tirreg toolick,” “‘ tooth tooth iron.” 

§ Literally ‘‘ canoe of the ghosts.” 

|| At Masseed and Cape York, ‘‘ sooca,” or ‘‘ choca.” 

§| At Masseed, murrar. 

** T never could discover the literal meaning or origin of this word. 

+t Literally, “ hairy cloth.” 

tt Literally, “ a head thing.” 


APPENDIX. 


295 


VI.—MisceLLANEous Ossects, ALPHABETICALLY. 


No. ENGLISH. Erroosp anpD Maer. Lewis’s Murray 
Istanp. 
311 | Abscess beggoon 
312 | Abundance gaide 
313 | Accident accasmig (659) 
(762) (772) 
314 | Acquaintance carully, or corolla 
315 | Affright geeum geum, or gaown 
316 | Afternoon kee-em, or keham 
317 | Afterpart coor 
318 | Amusement sagoor (757) 
319 | Answer meer (388) (769) 
320 | Ante-meridian edeem 
321 | Antidote* loocoop 
322 | Appetite veier, varraw (507) 
323 | Ashes tibby 
324 | Assassin mucleembly, or 
meideembly 
325 | Back of any thing} cood coor (38) 
326 | Breakers : : jouber (438) 
327 | Brother berbet leh 
328 | Charcoal kaeg 
329 | Cliff of sandstone | nAed, or naeda 
330 | Cloudst baz baaz 
331 | Country gcaed gad 
332 | Courtship fs kogim 
333 | Cramp peetare 
334 | Cure ebbisker 
335 | Cut, or gash eesmey, (640) or 
deerygay (639) 
336 | Day georer, or gegeaer| Cess 
337 | Dirt la, or lae 
338 | Distance : mooris 
340 | Dream : pheim 
341 | Dung ; leh 
342 | East zeal leeal 
343 | End seena [reed 
344 | Family : mana werrou ou- 
345 | Father bab baab 


* Lewis says they often poison each other at Murray Island, but does not say 
how, or with what, and I cannot guess, as their food appears to be only plain roots, 
or fish baked at a fire. 

+ At Masseed, ‘‘ zheed, or zheea.” 


296 


346 | Fear 
347 | Feast 
348 | Feeling 


349 | Fire 

350| Flame 

351} Front 

352 | Foe 

353 | Foot print 
354 | Friend 

355 | Friendship 
356 | Ghost - 
357 | Glutton 
358 | Grandfather 
359] Hill 

360} Health 

361 | Hole 

362 | Island 


363 | Kiss 
364 | Knot 
365 | Language 


366 | Leap 

367 | Liar 

368 | Lie 

369 | Light 

370 | Lightning 
371 | Line 

372 Loan 

373 | Massacre 


374 | Medicine 
375 | Memory 

376 | Mischief 
377 | Misery 


No. ENGLIsH, 


APPENDIX. 


Erroos anp Maer. 


geeum 


oora 
ba, or bae 
tareem 


taerter mec (70) 


powd, powda 


passAer 


epeet 

kabbi gaedor gad 
(513) (331) 

eSCOS 

mercar, or meer- 

car (388) 


i 


baess 


lage (234) 


Lewis’s Murray 
IsLanp. 


geum 
leieer anwain feik 
ettpay, or ithpay 

(660) [ sees) 
woor (on fire, es- 
woor* 


taress, arress (784) 
maralleh 


lammar 
vessear (320) (654) 
keiat 


debelly (501) 
nabe 


cabby gad 


ascos 
moocoop 
mecar 


curhidar{ 
bess moidiry 
bace 
perper 

do. 
lage 
eekwar bass (667) 
Skeerim deerap 

(6) (618) 

loocoop (763) 
decaapul (795) 
adooltry (471) 
aurithem 


* At Port Lihou, the word got for fire was ‘ moi;” but probably by mistake, as 
at Masseed, ‘“‘ moi” was the word for ‘‘smoke;” and at Port Lihou, ‘‘ uru” was 


given for ‘‘ to fire.” 


+ This word also means “strife,” “‘ war,’’ a fanciful philologer would no doubt 


trave it to 


“" Avec,” Apec BporodAorye, palpove, TeryeouTATA,” 


as I have heard the Australian word, “ gin,” “ a woman,” derived from the Greek 


“ yuvy.” 


t We got this word for “ to run,” 


§ Literally a “ head breaking.” 


APPENDIX. 297 


1g No. ENGLISH. Erroosp anp Marr. Lewis’s Murray 
4 IsLanp. 
. 378 | Mistake ‘ ¢ : habbah 
379 | Moon* maeb mabe 
380} Mother ama hammah 
381 | Mourning : « - | boothé 
382 | Mountain ; : , backeerie+ 
383 | Multitude : : . | gaide 
384 | Murderer 2 : : meideemly 
385 | Name nae ney 
386 | News s - |mercab (769) 
387 | Night : : . | keig (328) 
388 | Noise meer meer 
389 | Noon gegger togi (336) 
390 | North cooki kookey 
391 | Oil ; : : eed 
392 | Opening : , . | eessak 
393 | Peace powd, powda paud or poude 
394 | Peak passAer 
395 | Piece pec mooh 
396 ; Plenty ; gaide, or oeus oeus 
397 | Poison ; ; . | commer 
398 | Present - 4 . | looguisho (428) 
399 | Rain immer, or immaer | hidmer 
400 | Reef : : : nore 
401 | Relatives : ; karilba 
402 | Rock bakeer 
403 | Rust toolic laet 
404 | Sand$ wae vea 
405 | Sea carrem carrem 
406 | Shelter mooda mood . 
407 | Shipwreck : : : nar di pigney 
408 | Shooting star ‘ . | |\vear backyam 
409 | Short knife ; : . | ussar ussar toolick 
410 | Showers ; : . | hidmere 
411 | Silence - : . | decayer, mercok{ 
(388) (376) 
412! Simpleton : : . | maddoop 


* At Masseed, ‘‘ keecha, or melpal.” 

+ This word was always used by them to us to signify ‘ stone,” or “* rock.” 
¢ Literally, ‘‘ iron dirt.” 

§ The second party at Cape York gave me “ apa” for sand. 

|| Literally, “ star moves.” 

4 Literally, “‘ noiseless.” 


298 


413 
414 
415 
416 


A1Y 
418 
419 
420 
42] 
429 
423 
424 
425 
496 
427 
428 
429 
430 
431 
432 
433 
434 
435 
436 
437 
438 
439 
440 
44] 
449 
443 
444 
4A5 


EnNGLisuH. 


| Sister 
Sky* 
Smoket 


Sneer 


Soil, or earth 
Son 

South 

Star 

Stone 
Stranger 
String 

Sun,§ sunshine 
— rise 

— set 
Thief 

Thing 
Thunder 
Tide 

— flood 

— ebb 
Truth 
Untruth 
War 

Water, fresh 
— salt** 
Waves 

Well of water 
West | 
Wite 

Wind 

— contrary 
— fair 


Writing 


* At Masseed, “ rab.” 
+ At Masseed, ‘‘ moi.” 
+ Literally, ‘* bad face.” 


§ At Masseed and Cape York, Ist Party, the word was ‘‘ keecha;” but at Port 
, “ gerger.” 

|| Loo is used either as an affix ora prefix, and has various significations, ac- 
cording to the word it is used with: ‘ iboo loo”’ (a bird thing) is either a quill or a 
feather ; it is seen in ‘‘ loogaishu,” a present, and must often be translated by ‘ it,” 


Lihou 


(SS Se ee 


APPENDIX. 


Errnoos anp Maer. 


berbet 


baz 
kammoor 


sAep, or saeb 
werraem 
sage Aer 
waer 

bakeer 


lage 


gegver, or gergaAer 


ser? nemarida 
gegger beraigeda 
loo|| 

mec 

mec togAle 
mec omar? 
baes 

nie, or nae 
goor 

nae pat 
naiger 
coskeer 
wag, or waag 


as ‘‘ loo teca” (bring it), “na loo” (what is it). 


{ For fresh water we got at Masseed, ‘‘uki,” or “nuki;” at Port Lihou, 


“ muki;” and at Cape York, 2nd Party, “ chool.” 


** At Masseed, “ oor,” and at Cape York, Ist Party, ‘‘woor,” which are the 


Lewrs’s Murray 
ISLAND. 


Ccamoor 


adoot hopet (471) 
(26) 


sape 


saggore 
vear, or ver 
backerry 
neatedally 
lag 

gilgere 


irrooamsis 
loo 


geerygee 


megogree 
megeerap 
agukar, or agika 
bess 

barress (784) 
nea -* 

goor 

jouber 
neypaat 
niger 
cockgeer 
wass 
waguret 
wagudcake 
warrawar 


same as the names for “ fire,” at Erroob and Murray Island. 


Se ee ee ee 


ENGLISH. 


1446 | Above 
447 | Absent 
448 | Abusive 
449 Across 
450; Adieu 
451} Afloat 


452 | Afoot (walking) 


453 | Again 
454 | Agonized 
455 | Agreeable 
456 | Aground 
457 | Alike 
458 | Alive 


459} All 


460 | Allowed not 
461 | Alone 

462 | Always 

463 | Another 
464 | Apart 


465 | Ashamed 
466 | Ashore 
467 | Asleep 


468 | Athirst 
469 | Awake 


470| — Eyes open 


471 | Bad 
472 Before 
473 | Behind 
474) Below 
475 | Beyond 
476 | Black|| 


* This seems to be merely the word “ bakiam” (to go). 


APPENDIX. 


Erroos anp Marr. 


mocacilum 
agegs (applied to 
shells, &c.) 


(tabooed$) galla 


nerroot 


adood 


mazepcor 


gooli gooli 


299 


Lewis’s Murray 
IsLanp. 


VII.—Anbsectives, ADVERBS, &c. 


mooris (339) 
nahgedlam 
innatoprett (685) 
kabackeown* 
walr, or macaraw 
tomem 

meemim (806) 
caw, coh 

esce, esce (84) 
debelly (497) 
decu 
moocacklum 
lully awn cok,y cola 


karrah,t ah, wey 
assim 

abbak 

tap, tabe 

neeaicrem 

nerroot, narroot 

murrysue, marry- 
sew 

seerip, Slrrip 

gade, or gadd(331) 

hootide, or wootide 
(760) 

neap 

eckeeam, or ec- 
keeom (714) 

illeap backayath 

adoot, adootre 

taarim (351) 

coor (325) 

maash 


gooly gooly 


+ In our orthography this would be “ lola owd cok” (not dead not). I do not 
know whether the double negative be correct or not. 


¢ ‘‘ Karra” means “ give me.” 


§ A custom, in some measure resembling the “ taboo” of the Polynesians, cer- 
tainly seemed to exist, but we could not quite understand it. 
|| From the 2nd Party, Cape York, I got “ boker,” meaning either “ black” or 


“ charcoal.” 


APPENDIX. . 


No. ENGLIsH. Erroos anp Maer. _ Lewis’s Murray ~ 
IsLanD. 
477 | Blacking the body | . : gooly gooly na 
478 | Blunt kzb-kib [bassah 
479 | Bye and bye ~ manna,* manna 
[(763) 
480 | Certain : : . | Wonaiquar 
481 | Clean ocok, or ogcokt | ogekak 
482 | Coldt ZeeYroo ZeYoo 
483 | Crooked bal bal 
484 | Dark , gooly 
485 | Dead owd awn 
486 | Dirty og og oge oge 
487 | Drunk : maddoo 
488 | Dry hidmercok § 
489 | Karly in the day gillgeer topam 
(336) 
490 | Empty j lully kar (528) 
491 | Far mazepcor moorso, mooris 
492 | Fast (secure ?) inou? (790) 
493 | Few nals nice|| 
494 | Forgotten : attapey cock 
495 | Frightened geeum 
496 | Full kaem{ wai itu, | merry mear 
kaemca (43) 
497 | Good debelli debelly 
498 | Great ow 
499 | Grey (of hair) wezar 
500 | Growing rai 
501 | Handsome debelly , 
502 | Hard 7 : kellar or kellahla 
503 | Here tooab tooab (630) 
504 | Hidden 5 . | Isspee 
505 | Hot ooruere (349) (703); woodwey, or wood- 
wes 
506 | How much : . nagget 
507 | Hungry werer,Weri-agi(322) 
508 | Inside : . ar 
509 | Lame surry slrry 
510| Large ow audery 
511 | Last seena, or sana cenar (seenar) | 
5121 Late in the day ke barrikee 


* ¢ Menna,menna,” “ stay, stay.” 


+ Literally, ‘‘ dirtless.” 
¢ At Port Lihou, “ shuma” was given for “ cold.” 
§ Literally, ‘ rainless.” 


\| Literally, ‘* four.” { Only means “ full belly.” 


a i a ee a ee SS er 


No. ENGLISH. 


513 | Little 
Loaded 
Long — 
Low 
Mad 
Middle 
More 
— no 
Naked 
Nasty 
Near 
New 
Next 
Nice 
Nigh 
No, not 
Now 
Old 
Other 
Outside 
Perpendicular 
Pleasing 
Plenty 


Pretty 

Quiet 

Ready 

Red, painted 
—, natural 
Rich 

Rotten 
Same as 


— not 
Short 
Sick 


548’ Slow 


APPENDIX. 


-Erroos anv Marr. 


kabbi 


aep (61) 
aes 


maik 


lolat 


nerroot 


dordor(greatnum- 
ber 

debelli (497) 

meercok|| (be quiet) 


mairme 
mamomam (80) 


mocacilum (457 ) 


Sharp or shining | garger4 (424) 


301 


Lewis’s Murray 
IsLAND. 


cabilla, ceger, cabby 


loogaide(428)(312) 
eeh or ehe 
negarit 

maddoop 

elp 

ko 

seena (enough) 
lew kack* 

addot (471) 
maik 

kilcare 

kewoor, or kewoo 
debelly (497) 
maik 

loolly, or lully 
faick{ 
emmerouth 
nerroot 

athegea 
loonethcack§ (553) 
sagoor (318) 
gaide 


mircok (388) (815) 
pet new pet per 


debelli (497) 
sedemear 
mocacklum 
gary geer 
garry geer cock 
topai 

meigg 

bebbear 


* Apparently ‘ loocok,” “ thingless,” ‘‘ without anything.” 
+ Asa gesture of dissent instead of shaking the head they hold up the hand and 


shake that. 


¢ They did not know this word at Erroob, and could not pronounce it. 

§ From this word I expect that “net” or ‘‘ neth” or some similar word, means 
“ bent” or “ flexible,” then ‘‘ netcok” is “ stiff,” and ‘‘ looneth cok” “a stiff thing,” 
‘‘ anything upright or perpendicular.” 


_ || Literally “ noiseless,” 


{ When applied to a hatchet or iron tool. 


APPENDIX. 


No. ENGLISH. 


555 | Straight 
556 | Strong 
557 | Sufficient 
558} Sulky 
559 | Sweet 
560| Thick 
561 | Thin 

562 | To-day 


563 | To-morrow 
5641 Too much 
565 | Ugly 


566 | Weak 
567 | Wet 
568 | What or how 


569 | White 

570| Wonderful ! 
5711 Worse 

572] Yes 

573 | Yesterday 
574! Young 


575| One 
576| Two 
577\| Three 
578| Four 
5791 Five 
580 | Six 


And so on, they rarely count beyond six, but for higher num- 
bers collect bits ofstick in bundles, and “ naesa” repeated three 
or four times rapidly means an indefinite large number, twice 
‘‘ some,” as we should say, “ three or four.” 


only means “ afew, 


* Literally “ give me two.” 


; . nacqua 
caki caki cocka cok 
wai! wai! wai! +) wha!. 
; - | auly 
wow, wow waw 
: -  « |emmeraut gigger 
eid : . | kilear ! 
VIII. NumsBers. 
netat 
naes 
naesa neéetat 
nAesa nAaes naisa nice 


>? 


Lewis’s Murray 
IsLanp. 


Erroosp ano Maer. 


cabellze 
goobin goobin 
karra naice* 
adootlag (471) 
netcak 

. | aulley (510) 

, | balnake akee 
kellahla (502) 


kabbi 


seena 

vackoo 

debellary (497) 

same as hard 

same as soft 

faick giggere (529) 
(424) | 

nerrootgiggere(531) 

gaide (312) 

adoot hope (471) |. 
(26) 


sana gegoaer 


same as soft 
hidmer (399) 
nahloo, abloo, or 


nAesa naAesa netat | naisa nice netat 
nAesa naesa nAes 


+ Exclamations of surprise, often accompanied by flipping the thumb nail against 


the teeth. 


aan 
3 


APPENDIX. 


No ENGLIsH. Erroop ano Maer 
IX. Pronouns, &c. 
581\ I ; 
582) Me ca q 
583 | Mine cara* 
584} You ma 
585 | Yours mara 
586 | He or him 
587 | This one 
588 | That one 
589 | This side 
590 | What : é 
591 | What is that naloo dalli 
592 | What is your name} mara nae macodic 
593 | Who are you 
594| Where are you 
going 
595 | His name nae eta 
596 | What or how is it | na loo 
597 | Give mea piece | cara pec 
598 | I give you a piece} mara pec 
X. VERBS. 
599 | Accompany 
600 | Ascend 
601 | Asking 
602 | Assist 
603 | Attack : 
604 | Awake ekiam 
605 | Bake 
606 | Beat 
607 | Begin 
608 | Be off ’ . 
609 | Be quiet meercok (337) 
610 | Bend eegi ami 
611 | Bite erreg, tirrégéreg, 


(22) terego-dis- 
kaer 


303 


Lewis’s Murray 
ISLAND. 


cal 
ka 
karra 


mah 

abbleah 

abbleah 

nerroot pack 
naloo, a eloo 
naloo dalu 

marra nay macqua 
nee ette manailly 
marra ged back- 


yamt 


meenebuk 
backeoun, hebper 
(672) 
karraticot 
tooabook§ (503) 
barress (784) 
eckeeam 
heag, or heeg 
aress (784) 
keckeam 
lootataru]| (428) 
[(70 


eerag 


* These words seemed also to be used in the sense of “ for me,” or “ to me,” and 


to be used sometimes as *‘ give me.” 


+ In our orthography “ mara gaed backiam,” literally ‘‘ yours the country to go.” 
¢ “ Karratico” is ‘‘ give me” or “ bring me,” and would no doubt be used by any 


one asking for anything. 


§ Isuspect this means literally “‘ come here,” and would of course be used by any 


one calling for help. 


|| Literally ‘* foot it.” 


4 “‘ Terego diskaer” is literally “* to shake with the teeth,” (see 748). 


304 | APPENDIX. 


No. ENGLISH. Erroos anp Marr. Lewis’s Murray 
IsLanpD. 

612 | Blow at wag (442) 

613 | — a fire oora tooam 

614 | — the nose kakemeer Bia 

615 | Boil decasser 

616 Bore a hole pakacet 

617 | Box the ears eecabi de tagbort (8) (56) 

618 | Break narrapi irrap or epeet 

619 | Breathe naer 

620 | Bring here tecaw or tecca or 


tecawa, or ka- 
reem tecaw{ 
621 | Burn oora ikaiet woorem 
622 | — the fingers oora tagig, (349) 
(56) tagiga 


623 | Bury : : . | movyem ekai 

624 | Call é ; . | earanakoree (754) 

625 | Care, or take care| . ; . | ima inou 

626 | Carry . | looaisé (428) 

627 | Clap the hands | tag imoo (56) 

628 | Climb ‘ ; . | ogee or ohgee 

629 | Close the mouth | tae ztacobi (20) 

630 | Come keitu kettoo aug, tooa- 
boog (503), com- 
ing tobarickee 

631 | — back ; : . | kettoo aug 

632 | — here ? : . | kettoo aug 

633 | — we will never ; : . | neaicrumnaback- 

again : yam 

634 | Cough cobaek 

635 | Cork up detaput§ (64) 

636 | Creep on all fours | idaramz bebber 

637 | Crouchonthehams| owsk 

638 | Cry, weep eee, or dee ee 

639 | Cut || itodac dirry gea 

640 | — down essiml 

641 | — slips off detépe, ditpe 

642 | — as with arazor | ztoo 

643 55 scissors | dergel 

644 Guan in the hand | tago de tacobi{] 

(56) (629) | 
* ¢ Sek” isa hole in Port Lihou dialect apparently, as ‘‘peetisek” is a nostril or nose 
hole. + Literally ‘* to handle the temples.” 


t ‘‘ Kareem tecaw” is perhaps a mistake for “‘ kara teca,” ‘* bring to me.’ 
§ *Taput” is “ tagpot” or “ finger nail,’’ whence perhaps “a lid or cover.” 
|| At Port Lihou ‘ keda,” { Probably only means to ‘ close the hand.” 


* At Port Lihou “ cab.” 


+ At Cape York Ist party, “‘ otinaipa” ? 
¢ Probably to discharge a gun is meant. 
§ At Cape York Ist party “ bogoo.” 

|| At Cape York Ist party, ‘‘ goorda.” 

{| In these three sentences, we have evidently a different orthography of the 


APPENDIX. 305 
No. ENGLIsH, Erroos anv Marr, Lewis’s Murray 
IsLanD. 
645 | Dance* cab cab 
646 | Destroy epeet (618) loo 
deery gai (428) 
(639) 
647 | Diet+ owd 
648 | Dig wae-et, (404) ec- | irram 
keed,dzreb,arot, 
saeb daib (417) 
649 | Discharget : : . |epspee (301) 
(504) 
650 | Dive cooti-cooti baraig | batterick 
651 | Draw or write wardatur (705) 
652 | Drink§ eree erree 
653 | Drowned : 4 . | batteerey 
654 | Kat || ero, wessAer (357) | irroo 
655 | Embark - ecaur 
656 | Entice marry waunagar 
657 | Exchange : marry macquar 
658} Fart mooc 
659| Fall down : ecasmy (762) (772) 
660 | Feel itpae 
661 | Fetch taertaru (70)** | tickau 
662 | File dimoo 
663 | Finish seena (343) (557) 
664 | Fly ; - . | bird flymg, abbor 
eecass 
665 | Get upt++ acué ekeam 
666 | — yourself maboog ekerick 
667 | Givett equar (372) (656) 
(657) 
668 | — me carra, carrateca carratico 
669 | — ,, a plece carrapec 
670 | I give you : . | kai marre macquar 
671! Go away nebakari, bakiam (q 


same expression, which have accidentally come together in my arranging the 
vocabulary in alphabetical order. They probably both mean literally ‘‘ give me.” 
** Probably ‘ go for it.” 
tt At Cape York, from the first party, we got ‘‘ carnitoonri.” 
¢{ At Cape York, from the first party, we got “ idawaibaipa.” 
VOL. II. x 


306 


APPENDIX. 


ENGLISH. Erroos anp Marr. Lewis’s Murray 
IsLAnpD. 
Go bakiam backyam 


— and come 


aug* (630) 
Going up hill hopem na backyam 
— down hill sahbag na backyam} 
Gone barrake 
Grin . : adoot hope (416) 
Handle itpae (692) eetpay, or eetpie 
Hasten : 5 perper 
Heap up itoomed (68) 
Hear assoor assur 
Hearken : meer jackay 
Hiss sim Aer 
Hop on oneleg | ¢tzac 
Insult ittopret 
Is it? neh 


Itch 
Jumpt 
Keep 
Kick 


capt (127) (237) 


owpumar 


taertaer atoora 


ke backyam to 


marra, wadlaw 


(70) (784) 
Kall epeet epeet 
Kiss eSCOS ascos 
Kneel coco Aeméree (66) 
(739) 
Knit : edere (703) 
Know } woomel 
Laugh naeg 
Laughing ; 3 negaiguthe 
Lean against eerase (738) 
Lie down Aedida 
700 | Look assem acemy 
701 | Let me look at it | dassemi or caca 
dassémi 
702 | Lift, or handle, or | itpae 
feel 
703 | Make eewer eever 


bh 
{ 
: 


” 


* If this is correct, can the “‘ ke-to” be disjointed parts of “ ketto” or ‘‘ keitu 


“to come.” 
+ We have here three quite irreconcileable meanings for the same or nearly the 


same word, 
¢ At Cape York, Ist party, “‘ Katapunjipa.” 


gaa 


ENGLISR. 


Make fast with a 


rope 
Mark (as in writ- 


Murder 


Must 

Must not 
Offer 

Open 

— the eyes 
— the mouth 


— the arms 
Pat 

Pay 

Paddle 
Pick up 
Pinch 


Piss 

Plait 

Point at . with 
finger 

Pull down 

— the hair 


Put on 
— back 


Prick 
Rejoice 


Remain or stay 


Remember 


APPENDIX. 
Erroos anp Marr. 


lagari (234) 


war, or war-war 
(651) 


307 


Lewis’s Murray 
IsLanp. 


eespee, or coskeer | cokgeer ispy 


espee (441) (504) 


irkeep bakair 

tae eskaeda 
(765) 

batreemu 

tsorge aress (38) 


irAeb, oozher 

taertaeru (70) 

§taputo-eraeg (64) 
(611) 

OOSss1 

ewaer (703) 

bowr ecoss (244) 


(776) 


kéniunivedh deitbod 
(29) 


icardérar, icadi, 
ikderida 

ecoss (776) 

nomiordaer, men- 
na 


diper 

sageoor (318) (534) 

mabboash | 

keerim deerap* 
(6) (618) 

backyamyt (672) 

decayer 

equar (667) 

ekay (469) 


equar (667) 


kidlag 
tidoomery | 


looam (428) 


debber (497) 


decapul (795) 


* «s To break the head.” 


¢ Literally “to strike the back.” 


+ * To go.” 
t Literally ‘to bite with the finger nail.” 
x2 


164 


765 


APPENDIX. 


ENGLISH. 


Rise up 

— after sitting 

— after sleeping 

— after diving 

Roll 

— between the 
palms 

Row 

Run 

Sail 

Scrape 

Scratch, 
itching 

—the palm in 
shaking hands 


— in anger 


when 


See 
Shake 

— hands 
Shave 


Shew it 

Shoot with a bow 
Shout 

Shriek 

Shut 

— the eye 
Sing 

Sit down 

— cross legged 
Sleep 

Slide or slip 
Slit 

Smell 


Smoke tobacco 


Erroos anp Marr. 


acué 
ekiam 
etpae (702) 


Uplaemidh WE 48) 


oozher (232) (720) 
corrAeder 


ecoopmmar, acriss 

caputo, (64) ca- 
pacriss 

tag daewat (56) 


taput (64), taputo- 
igow, tago-igow 

assemi (700) 

diskaer, itaep 

tag irpaed 

immoos battoo(31) 
(639) 


ewatur, idomaer 
aerer 


irkeep essami 
waed{ 
aemeri 
bubu-barsi 
oota 

peertar 


lucop(374),lagdes- 
soora 

erroorwer 
(652) 


(505) 


Smooth the sand | wae paraed (404) 


* This means, ‘‘let me see it.” 

+ I should have supposed this meant, “ to open a thing.” 

t Asa sign for any one to sing, they flip the back of the fingers against the 
under part of the chin. 


Lewis’s Murray 
IsLanpD. 


ekeam (607 ) 


earask (698) 


curhidar 
allun 
ecreess 
ecreess 


ada sony 
isenroo 


emmoosh attu 
ka ka dasmi* 
deem 
elleanackree 


loogekayt 


sagoor obcree 
emmiry 


hoot, or woot 


| ecasmy 


lagdasul 


APPENDIX. 


* Woota or hoota, or oota, “ sleep.” 


309 


No. ENGLIsH. Erroos anp Maer. Lewis’s Murray 
IsLanp. 
766 | Snatch eetkae 
767 | Sneeze SlOW 
768 | Snore gegaer woots* 
769 | Speak meer, meercar ekai, meer 
770 | Speart 
771 | Spit m0-00s mawsheek 
772 | Split, as wood nakaEsimu ecas my 
773|— as a leaf for | dekaes 
making the“nes- . 
soor”’ 
774 | Squeeze eerpae (678) ithpay (678) 
775 | Squint é : ekosst 
776 | Stab ekoss 
777 | Stand, stop aquay 
778 | Start ezigmooret 
779 | Starve ‘ verrear (507) 
780 | Stoop eparsi ekai 
781 | Stop here mackinaw 
782 | — longer mana, mana(732) 
(479) 
783 | Straighten barditu 
784 | Strike §aress, atoora eepeet 
785 | Suck esoml irree (652) 
786 | Swallow ‘ ‘ eerim (652) 
787 | Swim baraeb harrem 
788 | Take icoara eecaw 
789 | — it there loo-ica 
790 | — care ina inou 
791 | — away ; : . | ablu cayg 
792 | Tear lama, itu, ituati- 
mi (778) zspas- 
simo 
793 | — with teeth terego-ditpe 
794 | — off a piece pec ikaesimi 
795 | Think B decapool (733) 
796 ' Throw away adaem 


+ At Port Lihou, was “ aipa.” 

t Thecopyist has probably made a mistake here and transcribed the following 
word, instead of the proper one, for *‘ to squint.” In the copy from which I took 
his column, these two words happened to follow each otber. 

§ At Cape York, Ist party, ‘* Matawaipa.” 


310 APPENDIX. 


No. ENGLISH. Erroos anv Marr. 


797 | Throw (asa stone)| atimid, (792) ba- 


towari, bakeer- 
batowerer (421) 

798 | Tickle derrtve? itkéri 

799 | Tie, (as a knot) macoob, didwar 
didbur 

800 | Tread* 

801 | Twist decomaer 

802 | Unbend detreemu 

803 , Uncork dekaemur (714) 

,804 | Untie detooémer 

'805 | Vex . : 

806 | Walk maem 

807 | Wash hands tag itkeer (56) 

808 | — clothes, &c. og derroop (338) 

809 | Whistle comela 

810} Wish : : 

811] Wring, (as in | igaemeéle 

washing) 

812} Yawn tae ewawi (20) 

813 | Wound (withiron) | toolic-bassac 

814| — (with stone) | bakeer-ikesimeer 


(421) (753) 


| An affix of nega- | cok 
tion, implying 
the negative or 
opposite of the 
word to which it 
is added 


* At Port Lihou, ‘‘ coki.” 


Note. It may be observed, that in our column, the verbs are all those of motion 
or action, and therefore capable of being represented by visible signs. On imitating 


the action, they gave us the word. 


battaurid 


Lewis’s Murray 
IsLanp. 


= — 


dimry 


ittopret (685) 
meemim (452) 


oge derreepee 
cometlag 
woah, or wah 


APPENDIX. 


NAMES OF PLACES. 


Murray Island,No.l1 . . . 
re 2: dots 
Nas? ‘ 
Place on South side of Maer 
Darnley Island : 
Village in Treacherous Bay : 
Village on West side of Erroob 
Villages in regular order going 
round to South and East 


33 33 
39 92 
33 ae 
39 93 
Nepean Island 


Stephen’s Island 
Campbell Island 
Dalrymple’s Island 
Rennell’s Island 
Marsden’s Island 
York Island, No. 1. 
a No 2. 
Wot 3... 2 
Islands South of these 


39 99 
Sand bank N.E. of Erroob . 
Bramble Key 3 
New Guinea 

Places in ditto . 


33 33 
39 99 
33 39 
33 59 
39 2) 
39 33 
3) 39 
33 3? 
3) +) 
39 33 
39 33 
33 2) 
29 33 
99 I) 
53 33 


31] 


Maer. 
Dowar. 
Waier. 
Miriam. 
Erroob. 
Beeka. 
Keriam. 


Zhee. 
Maedha, 
Badoga. 
Moggor. 
Kaiderr1. 
Oogar. 
Attagor. 
Jarmuth. 
Damood. 
Tood. 
Sirreeb. 
Masseed. 
Cudal. 
Oomaga. 
Oureed. 
Poorem. 
Mérad. 
Caedha. 
Dowdee. 
Samarree. 
Dodee. 
Keewai. 
Eemaree. 
Parrem. 
Baeb. 
Kerréged. 
Erro. 
Mowatt. 
Saibar. 
Dowar. 
Oige. 
Katatai. 
Sowee. 
Kagga. 
Cor. 
Baigoo. 


312 APPENDIX. 


Names oF MEn. 


Seewal. Dzoom. Manoo. Burroma.t+ 
Mammoos.*  Keouck. Warro. Babok. 
Doodegab. Jesse. Koiyop. Garia. 
Sapgob. Duppa. Kawi. 


NAMES OF WoMEN. 


Keewai. Atai. Passalag. Goee. 
Moggor. Sassee. Namoosa. 
Derry. Boodha. Wagoora.t 


* I fancy this means, ‘ red hair.” 

+ Probably, “ the pig,” from “ burroom.’ 

+ This seems to mean, “ blow the fire.” The other names, both of men and 
women, and places, have all probably a meaning. 


APPENDIX. 313 


No. IV. 


ON THE GENERAL AFFINITIES 
OF THE 


LANGUAGES OF THE OCEANIC BLACKS. 


BY R. G. LATHAM, M.D. 


For philological purposes it is convenient to arrange the 
Blacks of the Asiatic and Oceanic Islands under five 
divisions. 

I. The Blacks of the Andaman Islands. These are, 
comparatively speaking, isolated in their geographical 
position; whilst the portion of the continent nearest to 
them is inhabited by races speaking a monosyllabic lan- 
guage. 

II. The Blacks of the Malay area. With the exception 
of Java, all the larger, and many of the smaller Malay 
Islands, as well as the Peninsula of Malacca, are described 
as containing, in different proportions, a population which 
departs from the Malay type, which approaches that of the 
Negro, which possesses a lower civilization, which generally 
inhabits the more inaccessible parts of the respective 
countries, and which wears the appearance of being 
aboriginal to the true Malay population. ‘These tribes 
may be called the Blacks of the Malay area. 

Ill. The Papuan Blacks of New Guinea. Under this 
head may be arranged the tribes of New Guinea, New 


314 APPENDIX. 


Ireland, the New Hebrides, Tanna, Erromango, Annatom, 
New Caledonia, &c. 

IV. The Blacks of Australia. 

V. The Tasmanian Blacks, or the Blacks of Van 
Diemen’s Land. 


I. The Andaman Blacks will not be considered in the 
present note. | 

II. With respect to the languages of the Blacks of the 
Malay area, it may be stated unequivocally, that the dialects 
of each and every tribe for which .a vocabulary has been 
examined, are Malay. 

A. Such is the case with the Samang, Jooroo, and 
Jokong vocabularies of the Peninsula of Malacca.—See 
‘¢ Craufurd’s Indian Archipelago,” “ Asiatic Researches,” 
xii. 109, ** Newbold’s British Settlements in Malacca.” 

B. Such is the case with every vocabulary that has been 
brought from Sumatra. The particular tribe sufficiently 
different from the Malay to speak a different language has 
yet to be found. 

C. Such is the case with the eight vocabularies fur- 
nished by Mr. Brooke from Borneo ; notwithstanding the 
fact that both the Dyacks and the Biajuks have been 
described as tribes wilder and more degraded than the 
Malay: in other words, as tribes on the Negro side of the 
dominant population. . 

D. Such is the case with every vocabulary brought from 
any of the Molucca, Key, Arru, or Timorian Islands 
whatsoever ; no matter how dark may be the complexion, or 
how abnormal the hair, of the natives who have supplied it. 

E. Such is the case with the so-called Arafura vo- 
cabularies of Dumont Durville from Celebes, and of Roorda 
van Eysengen from Amboyna and Ceram. 

F. Such is the case with the languages of the Philippine 


' 


APPENDIX. 3815 


Islands. In no part of the great Malay area has the diffe- 
rence between the higher and lower varieties of the popula- 
tion, been more strongly insisted on, and more accurately 
explained than here. Yet the testimony of the early Spanish 
Missionaries, as to the fundamental identity of the Black with 
the other languages is unanimous ; and, to put the matter 
further beyond doubt, the few words of the Igorot negroes, 
near Marivéles, which are supplied by Lafond Luray, who 
visited them, are Malay also. 

Now, on these grounds, and laying the Andaman Islands 
out of the question, it may be safely predicated, that, until | 
we reach either New Guinea, or Australia, we have no 
proofs of the existence of any language fundamentally dif- 
ferent from the Malay; whatever may be the difference 
in physical appearance of those who speak it. 


III. For New Guinea, and the islands Waigioo, and 
Guebé, I have found only ten short vocabularies, and these 
only for the north-western districts. One of these, the 
Guebé, of the voyage of the Astrolabe, although dealt with 
by Mr. Durville as Papuan, is Malay. The rest, without 
any exception, have a sufficient portion of Malay words 
to preclude any argument in favour of their belonging to 
a fresh class of languages. On the other hand, the com- 
mercial intercourse between the Papuans and Malays pre- 
cludes any positive statements as to the existence of a true 
philological affinity. 

From New Guinea, westward and southward, we have 
for the localities inhabited by the black tribes with curly 
hair, the following vocabularies. 

1. For New Ireland. 

A. Gaimard’s Carteret Harbour Vocabulary— Voyage 
de l’ Astrolabe, Philologie, ii. 143. 

B. Durville’s Port Praslin Vocabulary. Ibid. 


316 APPENDIX. 


C. Dalrymple’s, so called, New Guinea Vocabulary, col- 
lected by Schouten and Le Maire, given also by De 
Brosses. 

2. For Vanikoro—Gaimard’s Vocabulary in three dia- 
lects, the Vanikoro, the Tanema, and the Taneanou— 
Voyage de l’Astrolabe, Philologie, ii. 164. 

3. Mallicollo—Cook’s Vocabulary. 

4. Tanna—Ditto. Also a few words marked G. Bennet, 
in Marsden’s Miscellaneous Works. 

5. Erromango—a few words by Bennet, in Marsden. 

6. Annatom— Ditto. 

7. New Caledonia—A short Vocabulary in Cook. A 
longer one in Dentrecasteau xand La Billardiere. 

All these languages, although mutually unintelligible, 
exhibit words common to one another, common to them- 
selves and the New Guinea, and common to themselves 
and the Malay. See Transactions of the Philological 
Society, vol. 1. no. 4. 


IV. The Blacks of Australia are generally separated by 
stroug lines of demarcation from the Blacks of New Guinea, 
and from the Malays. Even on the philological side of 
the question, Marsden has written as follows—‘‘ We have 
rarely met with any negrito language in which many 
corrupt Polynesian words might not be detected. In 
those of New Holland or Australia, such a mixture is not 
found. Among them no foreign terms that connect them 
with the languages even of other papua or negrito countries 
can be discovered; with regard to the physical qualities 
of the natives it is nearly superfluous to state, that they are 
negritos of the more decided class.” —p. 71. 

In respect to this statement, | am not aware that. any 
recent philologist has gone over the data as we now have 


APPENDIX. 317 


them, with sufficient care to enable him either to verify or 
to refute it. Nevertheless, the isolation of the Australian 
languages is a current doctrine. 

I believe this doctrine to be incorrect; and I am sure 
that, in many cases, it is founded on incorrect principles. 

Grammatical differences are valued too high; glossarial 
atlinities too low. ‘The relative value of the grammatical 
and glossarial tests is not constant. It is different for dif- 
ferent languages. 

In 1844, I stated, at York, that from three true 
Malay localities, and in three true Malay vocabularies, I 
had found Australian and Tasmanian and Papuan words, 
v1Z :—- 

]. In the Timboryan dialect of the Sumbawan. 
2. In the Mangerei dialect of Flores. 
3. In the Ombayan of Ombay. 

1. Arm = zbarana, Ombay; porene, Pine Gorine 
dialect of Australia. 

2. Hand = owine, Ombay ; hingue, New Caledonia. 

3. Nose = imouni, Ombay; maninya, mandeg, man- 
deinne, New Caledonia; mena, Van Diemen’s Land, 
western dialect; mini, Mangerei: meoun, muidge, mugut, 
Macquarie Harbour. 

4. Head = imocila, Ombay; moos, (= hair) Darnley 
Island; moochi, (= hair) Massied; itmmoos, (= beard) 
Darnley Islands ; eeta moochi, (= beard) Massied. 

5. Knee = icici-bouka, Ombay; bowka, boulkay 
(= forefinger) Darnley Islands. 

6. Leg = iraka, Ombay; horag-nata, Jhongworong 
dialect of the Australian. 

7. Bosom = ami, Ombay; naem, Darnley Island. 

8. Thigh = itena, Ombay; tinna-mook (= foot) 
Wioutro dialect of Australian. The root, tin, is very general 
throughout Australia in the sense of foot. 


318 | APPENDIX. 


9. Belly = te-kap-ana, Ombay; coopoi, (= navel) 
Darnley Island. 

10. Stars = ipi-berre, Mangarei; bering, birrong, 
Sydney. 

11. Hand = tanaraga, Mangarei; taintu, Timbora; 
tamira, Sydney. 

12. Head = jahé, Mangarei; chow, King George's 
Sound. 

13. Stars = hingkong, 'Timboro; chindy, King George’s 
Sound, Australia. 

14. Moon = mang’ong, Timbora; meuc, King George’s 
Sound. 

15. Sun = ingkong, Timbora ;: coing, Sydney. 

16. Blood = kero, Timbora; gnoorong, Cowagary 
dialect of Australia. | 

17. Head = hokore, Timbora ; gogorrah, Cowagary. 

18. Fish = appi, Mangarei; wapi, Darnley Island. 

Now as the three dialects have all undoubted Malay — 
affinities, the statement of Marsden must be received with 
qualifications. 


V. Concerning the language of Van Diemen’s Land, I 
venture upon the following statements, the proofs of which 
I hope, ere long, to exhibit in extenso. | 

a. The Language is fundamentally the same for the 
whole island; although spoken in not less than four 
dialects mutually unintelligible. 

B. It has affinities with the Australian. 

y. It-has affinities with the New Caledonian. 

A fourth proposition concerning the Tasmanian lan- 
guage exhibits an impression, rather than a deliberate 
opinion. Should it, however, be confirmed by future 
researches it will at once explain the points of physical 
contrast between the Tasmanian tribes and those of 


APPENDIX. 319 


Australia that have so often been insisted on. It is this— 
that the affinities of language between the Tasmanian and 
the New Caledonian are stronger than those between the 
Australian and Tasmanian. ‘This indicates that the stream 
of population for Van Diemen’s ran round Australia rather 
than across it. 


The following affinities occur between the vocabularies 
published in the present volume and the Malay and 
Monosyllabic dialects ; and they are the result of a very 
partial collation. 


1. Blood=mam, Darnley Island; muhum, South Jooroo 
dialect of Malacca ; mau, Anamitic of Cochin China. 

2. Nose=peet, Darnley Island; peechi, Massied ; pih, 
Chinese ; pi, Kong Chinese. 

3. Face=awop aup, Murray Islands; eebu= (head) Cape 
York, Massied; oopoo=(head) Tahiti; epoo, Sandwich 
Islands ; aopo, Easter Island. 

4, Hair—moos, Darnley Island ; mooche, Massied; maow, 
Chinese. 

5. Country =gaed, Darnley Island ; kaha, Ternate. 

6. Black=goolt, Darnley Island; houli, Tongataboo. 

7. Hand=tag, Darnley Island; tangh, Madagascar ; 
tong, Jooro; tay, Anamitic. A current Malay root. 

8. Fish—wapi, Darnley Island; iba, Poggy Isles off 
Sumatra. Also in other Malay dialects. 

9. Flame, fire=dae, Darnley Island; api, Flores, or 
Ende ; fai, Siamese ; ff0o, Kong Chinese. 

10. Hair=yal, Massied; eeal, Cape York ; yal, Port 
Lihou ; houlou, Tongataboo. 

11. Teeth—dang, Massied ; danga, Cape York; dang 
Port Lihou; dang’eta, Gunong-talu of Celebes; wahang, 
Menadu ; rang, Anamitic. 


320 APPENDIX. 


The evidence upon which I rest my belief of the funda- 
mental unity of the three philological groupes of the Malay, 
Papua, and Australian languages, is, of the sort called 
cumulative ; and it is the only evidence that our present 
data will afford us. 

Believing, however, in such a fundamental unity, the 
problem to be solved by further researches on the vocabu- 
laries from either ‘Torres Strait or the South of New 
Guinea, is the problem as to the particular quarter from 
which New Holland was peopled—whether from New 
Guinea, or from Timor. ‘Such a problem is not beyond the 
reach of future philologists. 


In the fifth volume of Dr. Prichard’s valuable work, I 
find that Mr. Norriss has indicated points of likeness 
between the Australian dialects, and the Tamul languages 
of Southern India, 

Such may be the case. If, however, the statements of 
those philologists who connect on one side the Tamul, and 
on the other the Malay, with the Monosyllabic languages, 
be correct, the two affinities are compatible. 


Upper Southwick Street, 
May, 1847. 


Se ee oe eS 


— 


APPENDIX. 321 


No. V. 


Heicuts of various points along the N.E. coast of Aus- 
tralia andin Torres Strait, calculated from Trigonometrical 
observations by Mr. Evans, Master of H.M. ‘Ss. Fly. 


Altitude 


District. Precise locality. a deed 


Sandy Cape Hill over Observation spot . . 366 
POMC EL gt ey wt gee. 299 


Port Bowen Entrance cislardk 3.55 $0 es 190 
Met Palet) Sts, ood cee 133 

Mount Flinders Ce gee pee ae 500 

CONDE ok ti adds 4 e008 fs 8 fo 362 

Blisie Bh: ic cy latt d oy a The 773 

UCT as Ei) i ee ee eRe 625 

Cumberland i. Island, Fast peak od). 3s) TSO 
Islands — West peak . . . ~ | 1070 
West Hill A CME URE AY feat Rg Eo ie 996 
Lonel fre fy sip] eats, Se Se 

Moant; Murmnells 05053 4) = Sit ors 1190 

Round Hill near ditto. . . . Fp 


Peak of Prudhoe Island . . . 1026 
Saetlet Gutts guek$er ws bw Gace 465 
Greenstone Island . . .. . 356 


ee eee eee 


Cape Hillsborough | Summit of the Cape . . . . 966 
Daomdie: Peake see gay Ji inde | is 701 
Double Hummock . . . . . | 1880 


South Stony Mountain . . . | 4264 

Whitsunday Cape Conway, high ae es, eset A637 
Passage Shaw’s Peak . «yf 1b 
Linné Peak . ; Sth?’ 994 

Kast Deceitful Peak ncaa heats 1353 

Pentecost Peak . . wjtuint p14 004 


Captain King’s 1504 Peak . 1442 
Mount Dryander . . « fe A BOSS 


Port Moelle H. peak | <.\ ..).-4. 7 1904 
Gite Aird speaks 25 |) B75 
Glocester Island, high Eee fT 1907 

| Holborne Island. re 48] 


VOL. II. Y 


322 APPENDIX. 


Districts. Precise locality. Py re 


emmeanmen) wee 


ee cee | ee 


Cape Upstart Cape Upstart, Ist peak . . . | 2414 
Mount Abbot? °.° 00°30 7 MA 3ae6 
Mount Elliot 2... © + « | 4075 


ee 


eens ames Oe | ns 


Rockingham Bay | Goold Island peak . * .:. - | 1376 
Notched Mountain. . .. . 2341 


ee wee ee 


Lizard Island | Cape Flattery peak . . . . 855 
South Direction Island . . . 561 
North” ditto “ditto 2°. 609 
Lizard Island peak. . . ». . (|*1211 


eee ee 


Cape Melville | Observation Peak . . . . . | 1265 
Flinders’ high peak. 994 
North double peak of Plinders ‘Isl. 640 


=a 


oem ee 


Sir C. Hardy’s Isl. | Summit of North Island . . . 320 


Cape York Mount Adolphus . . Realy 548 
Peak of Cape York Island . 282 
Mount Bremer . . Dy 420 
Peake Talg eg Pee A, aie 551 
Formed iil: pact ea bas be hp. 431 


er rs | 


Central and wes- | Double Island . .... . 218 
tern parts of Mount, Brmest "C8 bar 807 
Torres Strait Burke's Island. .-° 0" 3.0.2 +2 525 

Pole e isinnd 0 es ce 460 
Saddle Tsland “°° 0". 40 182 
Turtle backed Island . .. . 268 
Cay TSA ree tod gn ce 285 
Motht Augustus’ '.*-. 20. SRS 


Eastern part | Island of Erroob, highest point . 615 
of Murray Island, bare peak of Maer 747 
Torres Strait | Ditto, bare peak of Dowar . . 677 


* The height calculated from barometrical observations was 1162 feet. 


APPENDIX: 333 


No. VI. 


NOTES ON THE CHARACTERS OF 
THE SKELETON OF A DUGONG, 


(Halicore Australis,) 


From the North Coast of Australia, indicative of its specific distinctness 
from the Halicore indicus and Halicore Tabernaculi. 


BY PROFESSOR OWEN, F.R.S. 


To trace out the law of the modification of generic 
forms should be the chief aim in the comparison of the 
characters of different species, or what are so called. ‘The 
differences about to be pointed out in the skull and den- 
tition of the Dugong from the North Coast of Australia, 
are equivalent to those which are interpreted as specific 
distinctions in the Mammalian division of existing zoolo- 
gical systems. The bones of the Halicore Australis, here 
described, were transmitted by J. B. Jukes, Esq., from the 
North Coast of Australia, Endeavour Strait, lat. 22°S. 

The skull of the young Dugong (Halicore indicus), 
described and figured by Sir E. Home (Philos. Trans. 1821, 
pl. 20), measures 8 inches 9 lines in length, retains the 
deciduous tusks, and has rudiments of the permanent 
tusks, which are 9 lines in length. The first, second and 
third molar teeth have cut the gum and been worn: the 
fourth has pushed its rough, rounded, uneven summit 
through the alveolus, but, apparently, not through the 
gum: the rudiment of the fifth, which is the last molar 
tooth in the Indian species, is concealed in its closed 
alveolus. 

In a more advanced specimen of Halicore indicus, which 

¥ 2 


324 APPENDIX. 


I dissected at the London Zoological Society’s Museum 
(Proceedings of the Zool. Soc. 1838, p. 41), the skull, 
a section of which is figured in my ‘ Odontography,’ pl. 
92, measures 14 inches in length: the deciduous inci- 
sor and the first molar are still retained: the fourth molar 
has come into use: the rough summit of the last molar is 
through the bone, but, apparently, had not pierced the gum. 

The first molar in both the above specimens of Halicore 
indicus has a crown 2 lines broad; the second molar is 
3 lines broad; the antero-posterior extent of the four first 
sockets is 1 inch 5 lines in both specimens. 

The above admeasurements are taken from the upper 
jaw, and there is not any trace of a socket anterior to the 
first small molar in either upper or lower jaw of either 
specimen of the Indian Dugong. 

The germ of the last (fifth) molar in the skull of the | 
younger individual (Home’s), shews the beginning of the 
lateral channels which occasion the characteristic bilobed 
form of its summit, or transverse section. If, at a still 
earlier period, there be a molar anterior to the first small 
one in place in the Halicore indicus, it must be extremely 
minute, a mere rudiment manifested only in the substance 
of the gum, and leaving no trace of its existence upon the 
alveolar border of the jaw. 

These observations and comparisons led me, in 1840, to 
adopt the conclusion to which Cuvier had arrived from his 
examination of the rich series of skeletons of the Halicore 
indicus in the Paris collection, as to the numerical formula 
of the molar teeth: viz., that not more than twenty are 
developed, five on each side of both upper and lower jaws : 
expressed by the formula, 3 2 = 20. 

But this formula must now be regarded as characterising 
the species of India and the Red Sea, not the genus 
Halicore. 


APPENDIX. 325 


\, : ae 
HAN AN 
ANN an 
NN Nee 
\\ NN } : , i i mn 


7) 


y if) Wi: Ff 


s 
‘ 
2 Fah 
RR as Mile Sagi) 
. | i 
WW 
} 


/; Wij, ‘ 


Fig. 1.—Upper Jaw, Fic. 2.—Half of Upper Jaw, 
Australian Dugong. Indian Dugong. 


One of the skulls of the Halicore australis, transmitted 
by Mr. Jukes (fig. 1), which is of a size and age interme- 


diate between the two skulls of Halicore indicus above 
compared, has six alveoli (d, c, d, e, f; g,) on each side of 


‘both jaws, the last (g,) containing the germ of a molar, 


which shews, at its widely open base, the great antero- 
posterior extent, and the commencement of the lateral 
longitudinal impressions, which produce, when the tooth 
is worn, the hour-glass form of the grinding surface, cha- 
racteristic of the last molar of the genus Halicore. 

The teeth, unfortunately, have been lost out of the five 
anterior open sockets, the shape of which, however, shews 
that all these teeth were of the simple sub-cylindrical form, 
and had been in use, like the four teeth anterior to the last 
molar tooth in the larger of the two skulls of the Halicore 
andicus above compared. 


326 APPENDIX. 


The first socket (5) is three lines in transverse breadth: 
the second socket, (c) which answers to the first in Hali- 
core indicus, (fig. 2, c, as shewn in “the figure of a portion 
of a skull of an individual of that species corresponding 
in age with the Halicore australis, fig. 1), is four lines and 
a half in breadth, indicating a proportionately larger tooth : 
the third socket (d, fig. 1), answering to the second in fig. 
2, is nearly six lines across its outlet, and a narrow longi- 
tudinal ridge along its outer wall, indicates the implanted 
part of the molar to have been impressed with a longitudinal 
channel, like the anti-penultimate molar in Halicore indicus. 

The ante-penultimate socket in Halicore australis (fig. 
1, e) has not the ridge projecting from its outer wall: its 
aperture is seven lines and a half across; whilst its cor- 
responding socket in Halicore indicus (fig. 2, e) is only 
six lines across, and it shews the ridge along its outer wall, 
which impresses the implanted part of the tooth. 

The penultimate socket (fig. 1, f) is also larger in 
Halicore australis than in Halacore indicus, (fig. 2, f) 5 
indicating the specific superiority of size in that tooth. 
The rudiment of the last molar in Halicore australis, 
agrees in size as well as shape with that in Halicore indicus. 

The above comparisons refer to the molars of the upper 
jaws; but the same differential results are yielded by the 
lower jaws of the two species. 

Comparative admeasurements of the two skulls of ma- 
ture individuals of the species fHalicore australis and 
Halicore indicus, of the same sex, and at the same age, 
viz. before the ante-penultimate molar has been shed and 
when the sockets of the anterior molars have been obli- 
terated, shew the Halicore australis to have a smaller head, 
and most probably to be a smaller animal, than the 
Halicore indicus. 'The specific distinction is, however, 
more decidedly manifested by the difference in the dental 


APPENDIX. 327 


formula, and by certain osteological characters, of which 
the following are the principal. 

The alveolar series of the two sides of the upper jaw, 
m the younger skull of Halicore australis (fig. 1), have a 
greater anterior convergence, and the outer boundary or 
curve of the series is more convex than in Halicore indicus 
(fig. 2). The basi-occipital bone, and parietal bone, are 
broader in proportion to their length in Halicore australis. 
The part of the deflected maxillary and intermaxillary 
bones, which is bounded posteriorly by a ridge, is longer 
in proportion to the breadth of the same part in Halicore 
australis (fig. 3), than in Halicore indicus (fig. 4). 


Fic. 3.—Skull of Australian Dugong. 


A 
fil 
ili 


tilts 3 


EEA: 


OS 


— 


g 
/ 

ae 

a re 
—— Ss 
=~ 


<> 


SSS 


SSH SF 
= = F 
mt 
i] 


aS 


= 


om 
! 
SX SMM, ai 
\ osc 
ez 


Fig. 4.—Skull of Indian Dugong, 


328 APPENDIX. 


The deflected symphysis of the lower jaw is also longer 
in proportion to its antero-posterior extent in Halicore 
australis (fig. 3). ‘There are some minor differences in the 


cranium; but the general structure and configuration of 
this part of the skeleton is closely similar in both species. 

With regard to the rest of the skeleton, the scapula 
(fig. 5) best exemplifies the specific distinction of the 
Halicore australis, 


i 


i 
He 


——= 
————. = = 
—— 
—— = 


ERE 
=e 


SE 


<== 


EEE 
Zz = 
FA — 


Fic. 5.—Blade Bone, Australian Dugong. Fia. 6.—Blade Bone, Indian Dugong. 


This is seen in the minor breadth as compared with the 
length of the bone, arising chiefly from the straighter 
anterior costa, which in Halicore indicus (fig. 6) describes 
a bold convexity ; and this character is as well manifested 
in the young Indian Dugong, whose skeleton is figured in 


Se 


APPENDIX. 399 


the “ Philosophical Transactions,” 1821, plate XX, as it is 
in the largest and oldest individuals. The neck of the 
scapula is relatively longer, and the coracoid process rela- 
tively broader and shorter in the Halicore australis than 
in the Halicore indicus. 

The lower jaw of the younger specimen of Halicore 
Australis shews, by the superior size and depth of the 
third incisive alveolus, counting from below upward, in 
each ramus, that the rudimental incisors were present in 
those sockets, where they have been commonly found in 
the Halicore indicus. In the lower jaw of the older 
specimen of Hal. australis these sockets were filled up, 
like the rest, by a coarse reticulate bony mass. 

Of several upper permanent incisive tusks transmitted 
by Mr. Jukes from the North Coast of Australia one pair 
shews the deflected shallow base, marked off from the body 
of the tooth, as in the incisive tusks of the female Halicore 
indicus; these female tusks in the Australian Dugong 
were each 7 inches long.* Other tusks of equal length, 
with an unexpanded and unbent base, more deeply exca- 
vated for the persistent pulp, as in the incisive tusks of the 
male Halicore indicus, shew the same unworn, rough, sub- 
obtuse apex as the female tusks, and indicate that these in- 
cisive tusks had not been protruded and put to use, as we 
find those of similar size in the males of the Halicore indi- 
cus to have been, when they always shew an obliquely worn 
or bevelled extremity as well as the unexpanded hollow 
base. The correspondimg base of the apparently male tusks 
in Halicore australis are less deeply excavated than those 
of the male Halicore indicus. 

The chief specific character of the Australian Dugong 


* For the determination of the sexual characters of the tusks of the 
Dugong, see my ‘Odontography,’ p. 364. 


330 APPENDIX. 


appears, from the materials submitted to my examination, 
to be the development of twenty-four, instead of twenty 
molar teeth: although, these, as in the Indian species, are 
ultimately reduced to eight, two on each side of both upper 
and lower jaws. 

With regard to the Dugong of the Red Sea, for which 
the distinguished Naturalist and Traveller Riippen has 
proposed the name Halicore Tabernaculi, “in case it 
should actually prove distinct from the Dugong of the 
Indian Seas ;”* it is certainly distinct from the species 
here described. The scapula would seem to differ from 
that of the Halicore australis, and to resemble that of the 
Halicore indicus, inasmuch as its upper border forms the 
same elliptical curve.t+ | 

The more obvious osteological characters of the genus 
ffalicore, are described as they present themselves in the 
Dugong of the Red Sea, but without comparison with those 
of the-Halicore indicus. Dr. Soemmerring in his observa- 
tions prefixed to Dr. Riippel’s description, says that the 
identity of the Halicore Tabernacult with the Indian 
species scarcely admits of doubt.t : 

He describes an individual in the stage of dentition, 
when the ante-penultimate molar is retained with the last 
two molars, but is reduced to small size, ‘sehr klein’. In 
the old males, and even in females of the Dugong of the 
Red Sea, the upper incisive tusks project two inches from 
the gums. In this respect the Red Sea Dugong deviates 


* Falls sie sich als eine eigne, von der Halicore Dugong der Molucken 
wirklich verschiedene Species bestatigen sollte.”—Beschretbung des im- 
rothen Meere vorkommenden Dugong ( Halicore). 4to. 1833. p. 113. 

+ “ Der obere Rand des schauelformigen Thiels eine halb-elliptische 
Krimmung bildet.”—Ib. p. 110. 

t ‘* Nach genaueren auf Cuvier’s Veranlassung, &c. &c.—iist an der Iden- 


titat beider kaum mehr zn zweifeln.”—Ib. p. 97. 


LL 


a7 
7 


APPENDIX. 331 


still further than does the Indian species from the Dugong 
of the Australian coasts. 

Without a knowledge of the modifications of the dental 
system of the immature individuals of the Halicore Taber- 
nacult of Riippel its claim to specific distinction must re- 
main very problematical: and it is the possession of this 
information that has chiefly induced me to pronounce 
so decidedly on the specific distinction of the Halicore 
australis. 

The development and long retention of a sixth small an- 
terior tooth, of use in mastication, is a strong character of 
the species; but, passing from the analytical to the syntheti- 
cal point of view, we may discern in this character, an ap- 
proach to the Manatee—to that other generic form of 
apodal pachyderm, or herbivorous Cetacean, with still more 
numerous molar teeth, which still exists (Manatus, Cuv ). 
And thus is exemplified that tendency to the common 
type, which is manifested in Halicore australis, as in other 
animals, at an early stage of life, and which was lost as the 
individuals approached maturity, when the numerical for- 
mula of the molars of the Australian species was reduced to 
the 2 2 of the old Indian Dugongs. 


332 APPENDIX. 


No. VII. 


DESCRIPTION OF A NEW GENUS OF SNAKES, 


BY J. E. GRAY, ESQ. F.R.S. F.Z.S. &c. 


Tue Sea Snakes (Hydride) form avery distinct group of 
Reptiles, easily known at first sight, by their compressed 
tail and large superior operculated nostrils. The greater 
part of these animals have their abdominal surface much 
compressed, and covered on each side with a series of 
scales like the rest of the body, which are often united 
together, forming a narrow shield. 

The well known genus Aipysurus is one of the abnormal 
forms of this family, having the broad band-like shield and 
the smooth scales of the vermiform land snakes, with the 
compressed tail, the nostril, the marine habit of the 
normal Hydride ; but the transition of the Azpysuri to 
the Hydri was so abrupt, that it was to be expected, that 
there must exist some genus which had hitherto escaped the 
observation of naturalists, which would shew the gradual 
approximation ; such a genus has at length been discovered 
by Mr. Jukes on Darnley Island. 

This new genus, which I propose to call Hypotrophis, 
has the large blunt depressed head, covered with numerous 
head shields of the true Hydri, and like them, has the very 
high lateral shield; the throat covered with numerous im- 
bricated scales; the eyes small, round, high up, and sur- 
rounded by several ocular plates, and the nostrils superior 
Junate and valvular, and the tail broad and compressed. 


SSS, oS 


APPENDIX. 333 


Indeed to look at the head and tail, it would be said to be a 
normal Hydrus, but the scales are all smooth and polished 
like the vermiform land-snakes, and the genus Aipysurus, 
and those of the body are broad and six-sided, and it has 
broad band-like ventral shields, so that, in fact, it embraces 
the peculiar character of both genera; but it differs from 
them both in the broad ventral plates being folded together 
on each side of the sharp central ventral keel. 

Genus Hypotropuis.— Gray. 

Head rather depressed, broad, rounded in front. 

Head shields numerous, unequal, smooth, polished, pa- 
rietal largest. 

Supra orbital 3-3, front small, hinder largest. 

Nasal large, superior; anterior ocular 1, posterior 
ocular 3, unequal ; lateral shields, large high, the middle 
ones reaching to the lower edge of the orbit ; rostral square, 
large convex, inferior rostral small, triangular, with a 
rounded notch above. 

Temple and throat, covered with six-sided imbricated 
scales. 

Nostrils semilunar, superior, valvular in the middle of the 
nasal plates. 

Eyes moderate, rather superior. 

Body elongate, rather compressed ? covered with small 
polished six-sided imbricated scales. 

Belly compressed, strongly keeled. 

Ventral shield band-like, transverse, side folded together 
with a central notch in the middle of the hinder edge. 

Tail strongly compressed, oblong, covered with a series 
of more or less broad transverse scales, the upper and lower 
edge strongly keeled, and covered with folded scales—the 
tip torn, covered with a single large compressed conical 
scale. 


334 APPENDIX. 


Only a single species is yet known belonging to this genus, 
which was found on Darnley Island. 
Hypotrophis Jukesii, Gray Ann. and Mag. Nat. Hist. 
1846. 
PLATE 1. 


Pale olive brown (in spirits), rather paler beneath. 
Inhab. Darnley Island. 
Length, entire 5 feet; head 2} inches ; tail 8 inches. 


Thllmandel & Walton Iathographers 
HYPOUTROFIS JUKESIL 


Pub¢by T &W.Boone, London. 


APPENDIX. 335 


No. VIII. 


DESCRIPTIONS OF A NEW GENUS 
AND 


FIVE NEW SPECIES OF CRUSTACEA. 


BY ADAM WHITE, F.LS. 


Family MAIADA. 
Genus. XeENocarcinus, White. 


Carapace long, narrow, knobbed above, with a long 
very thick beak. 

Beak cylindrical, horizontal, forming an elongated cone, 
truncated at the end, with two small spines at the extremity, 
one on each side. 

Inner antenne rather thick, inserted in a deep groove 
which is triangular in front. 

Outer antenne springing from the under side of the 
beak, just in front of the eyes, the first joint elongated, 
somewhat bent, the second not half the length of the first, 
both furnished at the end with two or three longish sete, 
the other joints forming a bristle. 

Outer Pedipalps together occupying a square space—the 
first joint very narrow at the base, the inner edge finely 
serrulated, second joint very long, the sides almost parallel, 
the end gradually pointed, the third joint somewhat pyri- 
form with a tooth at the tip. 

Eyes with a short thick pedicel. 

Legs cylindrical, some of the joints slightly curved, tarsal 


336 APPENDIX. 


joint long, slightly curved, the inner edge with many closely 
placed minute teeth. 

Abdomen (of female) trapezoidal, hollowed in the middle, 
the segments, except the terminal joint, united in one 
piece. 

This genus is nearly allied to Acantnonyx Latreille, 
but may be readily distinguished from it by its long narrow 
Carapace; its cylindrical conical beak, and other characters 
specified above. 


XENOCARINUS tuberculatus. White, List of Crustacea 
an the collection of the British Museum, p. 123. 


Carapace with nine tubercles placed in three transverse 
lines, the central tubercle of the first line double, one placed 
before the other, the central tubercle of the third line also 
double, both placed transversely; the greater part of the 
beak covered with minute closely placed hairs and scales, 
two short lines of longer hairs on the upper side above and 
before the eyes; two or three waved longitudinal red lines 
on the posterior half of the carapace, the inner line con- 
tinued before the eyes. First pair of legs (in female) short 
not reaching to the end of the beak, the claws small, equal 
and minutely toothed. 

Hab.—Long Island, Cumberland Group. Caught in a 
seine.—In the collection of the British Museum, to which it 


was presented by J. B. Jukes, Esq. 
Family CANCERID/K. 
Genus. Carpitius, Leach. 


CarpPiLius cinctimanus. White, l.c. p. 14. 
Puate 2. figure 3. 

Carapace very wide without lateral tooth, the side divided 
into four lobes. Fingers of the claws black, whitish at the 
tip; the hand in the middle with a broad black band, which 
runs into the black of the immoveable finger: Carapace 


W.Wing del ethih. Hillmandel & Walton Lithographers. 


Ll, CYMOPOLTA JURESTI. } 
2.GRAPSUS LATIFRONS. 
&. CARPILIUS CINCTIMANUS. 


Pub*by T & W.Boone, London. 


APPENDIX. 337 


and legs smooth, of a rich red colour. Length of Carapace, 
1 inch 4 lines, Breadth, 2 inches, 4 lines. 

Hab.—Indian Ocean, and Eastern Seas. 

This species is more transverse than any of the described 
species of Carpilius, and from its habit, kc. may hereafter 
constitute a distinct subgenus, when one or more allied 
species are discovered. 


Genus. XANTHO, Leach. 
XantuHo deplanatus. White, l. c. p. 17. 


Carapace above smooth, and very much depressed: 
latero-anterior part very short, ending in a tooth, between 
which and the outer orbit are three lobes which are slightly 
rugose: front rather straight, with four slight lobes and a 
transverse line. Forelegs different in size and shape, the 
wrist with a curved impressed line on the outside. Legs 
hairy. : 

Hab.—Garden Island, Sydney. 


Family GRAPSIDZE. 
Genus. Grapsus Auct. 
Grapsus latifrons. White, 1. c. p. 40. 


Prate 2. figure 2. 

Carapace and legs mottled with yellow and reddish 
browns, much as in the Grapsus messor. Carapace consider- 
ably wider in front than behind, the frontal part very wide, 
longer than the side of the carapace, the edge dilated, 
straight and crenated—above this dilated edge are four 
slight transverse lobes, occupying the whole extent of the 
front, the two side ones longest, with several irregular warts 
in front: outer angle of eye sharp, spined—behind this an 
oblique groove on each side. Legs very long and flat. 

Hab.—Eastern Seas, Singapore. 

This species constitutes a well marked section of the 

VOL, 11. Z 


338 APPENDIX: 


genus distinguished by the great breadth of the front, and 
the flattened carapace, the sides of which are very oblique. 


Family CAPHYRIDZL. 
Genus. Cymopottia, Roux. 
Cymopouia Jukesii. White, l. c. p. 54. 
Prats 2. fig. 1. 


Carapace wider than long, covered with minute granules, 
the front with two rounded teeth in the middle, behind 
each eye there are two fissures, the outer one smaller than 
the other: the side of carapace with three teeth, inclusive 
of the outer orbital angle, followed by two or three small 
tubercles. Hands filiform, grooved, fingers crossing at the 
tips; second pair of legs much smaller than the third and 
fourth pairs: third and fourth pairs of legs with the third 
joint of a longish oval shape, slightly toothed on the edge ; 
upper surface, with a few tubercles, fifth joint with the outer 
edge fringed, with hairs which (in the dried specimen at 
least) are directed inwards. 

Hab.—Sir Charles Hardy’s Islands—dredged in eleven 
fathoms, coarse sand, by J. B. Jukes, Esq., after whom it 
is named. 

This species is particularly interesting as being the second 
of a genus hitherto only known to occur in the Mediterra- 
nean, where Cymopolia Caronii, the type, was found by 
M. Roux. 


APPENDIX, 309 


No. IX. 


THE DESCRIPTION 
OF SOME 


NEW SPECIES OF STARFISHES, ASTERIAD. 


BY J. E. GRAY, ESQ. F.R.S. F.Z.S. &c. 


Mr. Juxes, Mr. Macgillivray, and my nephew, Com- 
mander Ince, R.N. brought home numerous species of this 
genus, most of which appeared to be new ; but, unfortunately, 
they require more time for their comparison and description, 
than I can just at this time bestow on them. I have, 
therefore, left them to appear in my forthcoming illustrated 
Monograph of this family; and describe only the following 
_ very distinct and striking species. 

I may here remark that several of the habitats given in 
Miller and Troschell’s work are not correct, which is much 
to be regretted, as these authors have given an essay on 
the geographical distribution of the species of this genus, 
founded on their habitat.—Pentagonaster pulchellus (As- 
terog. pulchellus, Muller, p. 55), is from Japan and China, 
and not New Zealand; and they have evidently placed 
some of my species together. as varieties of the same, with- 
out having had the opportunity of examining the specimens 
on which they are founded, as is the case with Asterias 
Helianthus, A. Cumingii, and <A. multiradiata, which 
they regard as the same as Asteracantheon Helianthus, 
p. 18; they appear to think from their note, that the num- 
ber of the arms is the only character which separates them, 
overlooking the proportion given, and the difference in the 
shape of the arms and spines. 

z 2 


340 APPENDIX. 


Cuucita Agassiz. 


This genus chiefly differs from Randasia and Pentaceros 
in having no open series of marginal ossicules; it agrees 
with Randasia in the back being nearly flat. 


Cutcita Schmideliana. 


A. Schmideliana, Retz Dis. Schmidels. Naturf. ‘avi. 
t. 1. (good) A. discoidea, Lam. 


Body subcircular, flat above when dry, (very convex,subglo- 
bose when alive.) The back coriaceous, without any apparent 
reticulations, covered with scattered small conical spines; the 
oral surface rather convex (when dry), closely and minutely 
granular, and with larger conical tubercles, those near the 
ambulacra and oral angles much the largest and ovate. 

Inhab.—Australia ? 

There are distinct indications of the lower marginal ossi- 
cules in this species, but they and the ossicules of the oral 
surface are not sufficiently large and close to force the dry 
specimen to assume the pentangular form of the following 
species. 


Cuxcira pentangularis, n. s. 


Body pentangular, back flat when dry, convex beneath, 
minutely and closely granulated, back with obscure reticu- 
lations, the reticulations armed with small conical tubercles, 
the interspaces closely and minutely porous. 

The oral surface protected with distinct well defined 
ossicules, defining the lower edge of the margin, closely 
covered with minute granules, and larger round-topped 
tubercles, those near the ambulacra and the oral angles 
being largest and highest. 

Inhab.—Reef of Oomaga. 

This species is very distinct from the former, and forms 


APPENDIX. 341. 


the passage to the genus Randasia, but. has a series of 
sunken minutely porous spaces in the place of the upper 
marginal plates. 


Ranpasta, Gray. 


Body pentagonal, depressed, minutely granular. Back 
nearly flat, minutely granular, reticulated ; reticulations 
rather tubercular; interspaces sunken (when dry), and 
covered with very: minute close perforations. Dorsal tuber- 
cles, roundish, single, subcentral; margins furnished with 
an upper and lower series of oblong ossicules, the upper 
one narrower internally, with a central series of tubercles, 
the lower ones oblong, close together, and convex. The 
oral surface protected by close regular squareish convex 
ossicules, covered with short crowded granules. The 
ambulacral spines in rounded groups, the series of tubercles 
nearest the ambulacra larger, crowded, and placed in groups 
of three or five, and those in the oral angles largest and flat- 
topped. | 

This genus differs from Pentaceros in the back being 
flat, and not angularly elevated ; it is, in several respects, 
intermediate between Culcita and Pentaceros. 


Ranpasia granulata, n. s. 


Body 5-sided, back minutely granular, with roundish 
convex subconical tubercles on the reticulations; the mar- 
ginal plates 14 on each side, the upper ones with a central 
series of tubercles. 

Inhab.—Reefs of Atagore, N. Australia. 

There are two specimens of this species in the British 
Museum, one in a very bad state. 


Ranpasia spinulosa, n. s. 


Body 5-sided, back and upper marginal plates covered 


342 APPENDIX. 


with numerous small conical acute spines, without any 
larger tubercles, the upper marginal plate indistinct. 

Inhab. 

This species is very like the former in shape, size, and 
appearance, but is very easily known from it by the 
numerous mobile acute spines, with which the back and 
upper part of the margin are covered, appearing to take 
the places of the small granulations, and by the absence of 
the tubercles on the elevated ribs of the back. 


ASTERODIscus, Gray. 

Body pentagonal, coriaceous, depressed, covered with 
numerous close flat-topped unequal small tubercles ; back 
convex; dorsal wart roundish, subcentral; arms _ short, 
rounded, with a pair of large convex kidney-shaped 
ossicules on each side of the tip above; margin simple 
rounded, beneath concave, ambulacra with a series of short 
linear spines, placed in groups of four or five, each group on 
a separate ossicule, and with two series of larger blunt 
clubshaped spines on the outside of the ambulacral spines. 

ASTERODISCUS elegans, Nn. Ss. | 

Pale brown when dry, tubercles of the back unequal, the 

larger ones truncated, those nearest the mouth on the 


underside larger, clubshaped, rather crowded. 

Inhab.—Japan. Brit. Mus. 

PENTACEROS granulosus, 0. s. 

Five-rayed, rays as long as the diameter of the disk, 
rounded at the tip; back rather convex. 

Ossicules convex rounded, all covered with close rounded 
granules, the two or three central ones on the top of each 
ossicule being larger, those on the middle of the back largest, 
and subtubercular. 

The marginal ossicules convex rounded. 

Inhab.— Western Australia. 


APPENDIX, 343 


Young ? arms more slender and the lower marginal ossi- 
ecules near the tip of the arm, each with a group of two or 
three spines, the one nearest the tip largest. 

The dorsal surface of this species is furnished with 
abundance of Pedicellaria, one arising from each hole be- 
tween the ossicules. 


STELLASTER Jncei, 0. s. 


Purplish, minutely granular; back with scattered conical 
convex tubercles, those down the centre of the arm largest ; 
the lower marginal plates are flattish. 

Inhab.—Cape York. 

This species is very like Stellaster Childreni, Gray, 
Ann. and Mag. N. H. 1840, 2738. Miiller Aster. 62, 128, 
t. 4, £.3. Asterias equestris, Retzius Diss. 12. But it is 
purplish when dry; the back is tubercular ; the whole sur- 
face is minutely granular, while the Javanese species is 
always white, the back smooth, and the granules of the sur- 
face are so minute and thin, that they are very easily eroded, 
and the lower marginal plates are more convex, and the 
central ones much larger than the others. 

We have a third species of this genus from Borneo, which 
differs in the arms, being larger and much more slender ; 
the back with only 5 or 6 tubercules, but the whole surface 
is minutely granular. It is named Séellaster Belcheri. 


CaLLIDERMA, Gray. 


Body flat, five-sided; rays rather elongated; attenuated 
end only formed of the marginal plates, ossicules all mi- 
nutely granulated. 

The dorsal ossicules flat-topped, six-sided; some with a 
larger globular tubercle-like granule. 

The marginal ossicules broad, gradually becoming 
smaller near the tip, sharp-edged, minutely granular’; those 


344 APPENDIX.. 


of the upper and lower series alternating ; the edge of the 
upper ones with some indistinct spines on the margin, the 
lower ones with scattered mobile spines on the oral surfaces. 

The ossicules of the oral surface, three, four, or six-sided, 
granular, with one (rarely two) central compressed acute 
mobile spines. 

The ambulacral spines very small, close, fourteen or six- 
teen on each ossicule, forming a rounder group, with two or 
three series of large scattered mobile acute spines on the 
outer side. 

This genus resembles Stellaster, but differs from it in the 
oral surface being furnished with scattered spines. 

There is a fossil species very like the one here described 
found in the chalk, and figured in Mr. Dixon’s work on the 
Fossils of Worthing, which I propose to call CaLLiDERMA 
Dixonii; there are probably several other fossil species 
from the same locality, they have been referred to the genus 
Tosia, but the ossicules are granular, and the oral surface 
spinose. 


CALLIDERMA mma, 0. Ss. 


Flat, pentangular, the sides concave, the arms elongated, 
produced, tapering to a fine point, about two-thirds the 
length of the diameter of the disks. 

The dorsal ossicules six-sided, regular, flat-topped, co- 
vered with minute roundish granules, the central granules 
of the central ossicules and those down the centre of the 
arms larger, globular, tubercular-like 

The margin sharp-edged, concave in the centre ; the ossi-» 
cules of the upper and lower series alternating, minutely 
granular, with one or two larger subspinose granules on the 
middle of the upper margin. Marginal ossicules about 50 
on each surface on each side ; the lower series with scattered 
acute compressed spines on their oral sides. 


APPENDIX. 345 


The ossicules of the oral side four or six-sided, rather 
irregular, minutely granular, each armed with a central com- 
pressed acute mobile spine. 

Inhab.—Japan ? 

This species most nearly resembles a fossil found in the 
chalk, which has hitherto been referred to the genus Tosia, 
and will be figured in Mr. Dixon’s forthcoming work on the 
Fossils of Worthing. 

I have dedicated this fine species to my daughter, 
Mrs. J. P. G. Smith, who, before her marriage, com- 
menced a series of plates to illustrate a monograph of 
this genus. 


ANTHENEA, Gray. 


This genus may be divided into two sections, one having 
a very large two-lipped pore on each ossicule of the oral 
surface, the back netted, chaffy, as A. chinensis, and the 
following new species :— | 


ANTHENEA tuberculosa, nu. s. 


Back obscurely netted, rather chaffy, with scattered large 
flat-backed tubercles. 

Marginal ossicules with some moderate granules; the 
upper ossicules with one or more large flat-topped tubercles 
on their upper part. 

Inhab.— Port Essington. 

This species is very like Anthenea chinensis, Gray, Asterias 
pentagonula, Lam.? but differs from it in being more convex 
and netted, and more distinctly tubercular, and in the upper 
marginal tessera being armed with tubercles. 

Like the Chinese species, all the ossicules, both margi- 
nal and discal of the oral surface, are furnished with large 
elongated two-lipped pores. 

The second section contains the following species, which 


346 APPENDIX. 


have one or more small two-lipped pores on some of the ossi- 
cules of the oral surface. The back subtubercular, and the 
ossicules all covered with large roundish granules. 


ANTHENEA granulifera, n. s. 


Both surfaces covered with small roundish granules, the 
back with rather convex ossicules, the arms as long as the 
diameter of the body; back, with one or two scattered 
tubercles. 

Var. back, with a blunt tubercle on the centre of each of 
the ossicules of the middle of the back. 

Inhab.— Australia ? 

This species is easily known by the granules on the 
surface, the length of the arms, and the small size of 
the two-lipped pores, those of the dorsal surface are very 
minute. 


Hosta. spinulosa, n. s. 


Body flat, pentagonal, sides concave, arms not half the 
length of the diameter of the body. 

Dorsal ossicules large, subequal, six-sided; very minutely 
granular. 

Marginal ossicules 12 on each side, convex, deeply 
separated from each other with a series of 2 or 3 small 
acute spine-like tubercles in the centre of each. 

The ossicule of the oral surface flat, minutely granular 
with small two-lipped pores. | 

Inhab.—Indian Ocean. 

This species nearly resembles in shape the Tosia australis, 
but is at once known from that species by the granular ossi- 
cules, the spines on the margin, and the two-lipped pores 
beneath. It differs from Hosta flavescens in being five- 
sided instead of five-armed, and in having no spines on the 
middle of the back. 


— 
? 
_ 


APPENDIX. 347 
AsTEROGONIUM (restricted.) 


Body pentangular, flat above and below. 

Back or oral surface protected by irregular ossicules, 
each covered with numerous erect cylindrical truncated 
tubercles, or granules, those of the oral surface largest. 

Margin strengthened with regular oblong four-sided 
ossicules, covered with small regular granules, except on 
the most convex part of their centres, those of the upper 
and lower series opposite each other. 

Dorsal wart single. 

Ambulacra with cylindrical truncated spines, in groups of 
four on each ossicule of equal size not forming a rounded 
group, and with a series of similar rather larger spines on 
their side, and a series of small ossicules with ‘terminal 
granules on their outer sides. 

Bilabiate slit, none on either surface. 

Messrs. Miiller and Troschell have proposed a genus 
under this name, which I have here restricted to smaller 
limits ; to distinguish the species more accurately I have 
described all we have in the Museum. 

A.— Body flat, five-sided, granules short. Ossicules 
flat-topped, not tubercled. 


ASTEROGONIUM miliare, 0. s. 


Flat, dark red, pentangular, rays rounded at the end, 
about one-third the length of the diameter of the disk. 

Margin rounded, ossicules 38 or 3% on each side, 
covered with uniform close granules. 

Dorsal ossicules, rather convex, covered with uniform 
granules. | 

Inhab.—New Zealand. 

Like A. granulare in form, but the margin is round, and 
the marginal plates are more numerous. 


34s APPENDIX. 


ASTEROGONIUM granulare. Asterias granularis, Retz. 
Dis. Muller, Zool. Dan. t.92. f. 1. 


Pentagonal, sides rather concave. 

Back bright crimson, oral. surface yellowish, marginal 
ossicules oblong, 14 on each side, rather convex, covered, 
except at the most convex part of the upper and lower 
surface, with very minute granules. 

Dorsal ossicules hexagonal, flat-topped, with short flat- 
topped granules. Ossicules of oral surface similar, but 
granules larger. . 

Inhab.—N. Sea. British Museum. 

This species is very like Tosia australis, but is at. once 
known from it by the granules covering the greater part of 
the surface of the marginal ossicules. 

B.— Back rather convex, the marginal and dorsal ossi- 
cules, with a small central convexity or roundish tubercle, the 
granules of the oral surface rather elongate, rounded. 


AstTEROGONIUM tuberculatum, n. s. 


Body pentangular, sides concave, arms rather produced, 
acute, tapering. | 
The ossicules of the dorsal surfaces of the upper and 
lower marginal series, each furnished with a small central 
rounded tubercle. 

Marginal ossicules 28 on each side; the dorsal tubercles 
on the middle of the back and down the centre of each arm 
rather larger. 

Inhab.—Port. Natal. 

C.— Body flat ; the ossicules of the dorsal, marginal, and 
oral surfaces entirely covered with rather elongated uniform 
granules. Marginal ossicules small, erect, rounded above. 


ASTEROGONIUM pacillosum, 0. s. 


Blackish (perhaps discoloured); pentagonal, flat ; arm 


| 


APPENDIX. 349 


nearly as long as diameter of disk, rounded at the end; all 
the ossicules of the back, edge and oral surface covered 
with regular uniform rather long erect granules, forming a 
level surface of the oval surface longest. 

The marginal ossicule narrow, erect, rounded above ; 
ambulacral spines elongate. 

Inhab.— Port Essington. 

This species, from the length of the clbiilors passes 
towards Astropecten, the elongated tubercles having much 
the appearance of those which are called Pazilli in that 
genus. 


PENTAGONASTER Dubeni, n. s. 


Body flat, five-rayed, rays two-thirds the length of. the 
diameter of the disk, rounded at the ends. 

Ossicules all convex, rounded. : 

Marginal ossicules 1° large rounded, those near the end 
of the arms largest, most convex. 

Inhab.—West Australia. 

This species differs from P. pulchellus in the marginal 
ossicules, being more equal, and in the arms being much 
longer, and more slender. | 

The ossicules of the dorsal disk are unequal sized and 
rather irregularly formed, those near the margin on the 
middle of the sides are oblong and narrow, those of the 
oral surface are more regular and not so convex, those near 
the angles of the mouth being the largest and subtriangular. 

I have named this beautiful species in honour of M. M. 
W. Von Dien, who has lately published a very admirable 
paper on the Northern species of this family. 


Tosta, Gray. 


The granules between the ossicules are deficient in the 
dead and washed specimens. It has been thought that the 


350 APPENDIX. 


fossil species found in the chalk belonged to this genus, but 
the surface of the ossicules of most of the specimens I have 
seen shew, from the scars with which their surface is covered, 
that they are covered with granules, therefore they rather 
belong to the restricted genus Asterogonium. 

A.—In some species of this genus the ossicules of the oral 
disk are more or less entirely covered with crowded flat- 
topped granules. 


Tosia grandis, n. s. 


Dorsal ossicules very unequal, flat-topped; marginal 
ossicules +4 or 46 on each, sides rather convex. The 
ossicules of the oral surface are furnished with two or three 
rows of crowded granules, and those near the ambulucra are 
most covered. | 
* Inhab.—Western Australia. 

Lincke, under the name of R. reqularis, t. 13. f. 22. 22. 
copied. E. M. ¢. 96. and Seba, iii. ¢. 8. f. 4. figures a species 
like the above, but it only has ten marginal plates. Miller, 
who thought he examined Lincke’s specimen at Leipsic, 
describes it as having seven upper and five under marginal 
plates. 


Tosta aurata, 0. Ss. 


Golden yellow ; dorsal ossicules flat-topped, the five in the 
centre between the central lines of the arms largest and 
round, the marginal ossicules +9 or 12, rather convex and 
nearly equal, (that nearest the top not being longer than 
the others); the ossicules of the oral disk all, except a few 
in the middle of each, are entirely covered with flat-topped 
granules. 

Inhab.—Australia. Brit. Mus. 

B.—In others the ossicules of the oral surface are only 


edged with a single series of granules, like those of the back. 


aa ss! a 


APPENDIX. 351 


Tosa tubercularis, n. s. 


Yellow, edge reddish. 

The dorsal ossicules convex, subtubercular, those of the 
centre of the arms highest, those between the arms in the 
centre largest, nearly flat. 

The marginal ossicules & or 8 on each side, convex 
subtubercular; the one near the tip of the arm largest and 
oblong, longitudinal, convex. 

The ossicules of the oral surface small, each surrounded 
with asingle row of granules. 

Var? or Young? ‘The ossicules of the oral surface near 
the edges covered with granules. . 

Inhab.—Swan River. 

There is a specimen in the British Museum with six 
marginal ossicules, very like the above, but differing from 
them in the dorsal ossicules being only convex and rounded. 
It has the same convex and large subterminal marginal plate. 


Tosta rubra, n. s. 
Red brown. 
Dorsal ossicules rather convex rounded. 
Marginal ossicules 44 on each side, rather convex equal, 
the one next the tip of the arms smaller, narrower. 
The ossicules of the oral surface flat-topped, with a 
single series of marginal granules. 


Inhab.— Australia. 


Tosta australis. Gray, Ann. Nat. Hist. 


Yellowish or reddish. 

Dorsal ossicules rather convex rounded. 7 

Marginal ossicules £ on each side, rather convex equal : 
The ossicules of the oral surface flat-topped, with a single 
series of marginal granules. 

Inhab.—W. Australia, Swan River. 


352 APPENDIX. 


Perricia, Gray. 

Body convex, five -rayed. 

Skin above and below varnished, spineless. 

Back. strengthened with numerous sunken moderate- 
sized ossicules; the margin with two series of larger oblong 
ossicules, spineless, the oral surface with rather regularly 
disposed smaller ossicules. 

Ambulacral spines subulate, placed in pairs, with a second 

series of similar but rather larger spines on the outer side of 
them. : 
This genus is very lise Porania, but the back does not 
appear to be angular; the margin is not edged with spines, 
and the ambulacral spines are in pairs, and not single as in 
that genus. The ossicules of the back and oral surface are 
punctured, and one of them, situated near the edge of the 
back in the middle space between the arms, is furnished 
with a linear pore edged with convex lips. 


PETRICIA punctata, 0. s. 


Orange when dry. 

Inhab.—The Reef of Attagor. J. B. Jukes, Esq. 

There is a single specimen of this genus in the British 
Museum collection. 

I may here remark that the specimen of Poraria gibbosa, 
the Asterias gibbosus of Leach, and Goniaster Templetoni of 
Forbes, in the British Museum, from Arran, are exactly like 
Asterias pulvillus of Miiller, received from Norway, in the 
same collection. 

Patiria, Gray. 

This genus may be divided into three sections. 

1. Body pentagonal, the dorsal ossicules lunate narrow, 
the edge of the arms acute. The space of the upper side 
between the angles of the arms are covered with small 


roundish groups of spines. 


APPENDIX. 3538 


Patiria coccinea. Gray. Asteriscuscoccineus. Miiller 
and Trosh. 43. 


The roundish group of spines between the lunate ossicules 
is very abundant. 

2. Body five-rayed, rays thick rounded, dorsal ossicules 
lunate subtriangular ; arms convex above and rounded on the 
sides. 


PaTIRIA grantfera. 


? Asterias granifera, Zam. n. 24? var. ap etit grains. 
Oudart. t. 

Brown, back rather convex. 

The arms broad, rounded at the end, nearly as long as 
the diameter of the disk, rounded above, flat beneath ; the 
lunate dorsal ossicules covered with short crowded spines, 
and with only a few small tufts of spines between them, the 
ossicules of the oral surface, each with a transverse line of 
six or eight spines. 

Inhab. 2 

Variety, the arms more slender, about one-third longer 
than the diameter of the disk. 

-Inhab.—Brit. Mus. 
The variety may be a distinct species, but the specimen 


is not in a sufficiently good state to determine this point 
with accuracy. 

3. The body five-rayed, rays thick, rounded, the dorsal 
ossicules especially; those at the end of the arms broad, 
rounded ; the back covered with two or three beaked Pedi- 
cellaria, nearly hiding the tubercles. 


Patiria ocellifera. 
Asterias ocellifera, Zam. n. 5. Oudart t. fig. 
Body five-rayed, arms thick rounded, as long as the dia- 
meter of the disk, bluntish at the end; the dorsal ossicules 
VOL. II. 2A 


354 APPENDIX. 


broad, oblong, or roundish, reddish, covered with short 
crowded spines; of the oral surfaces with transverse rows 
of three to five mobile spines, 
Inhab. 
This species much more nearly resembles Oudart’s figures, 
than the species I have described under the name of Vectra 
oculifera. 


PrerasteR Capensis. 


Body subpentagonal, swollen, edge very thick, rounded; 
back convex, reticulated, with rounded groups of very small 
ossicules at the junction of the reticulations. 

Inhab. Cape of Good Hope. 

The spines of the ambulacra like Pteraster militaris, 
but they are longer, and the series of webbed spines on their 
outer margins are scarcely longer than those of the ambu- 
Jacra, while in the northern species they are much larger 
and thicker, and there is no appearance of the two large 
glassy spines at the angle of the mouth, so distinct and 
peculiar in that species. 


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APPENDIX. 


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No. X. 


DESCRIPTION 


OF SOME 


NEW SPECIES OF MARINE SHELLS. 


BY J. E. GRAY, ESQ. F.R.S. F.Z.S. 


A CONSIDERABLE number of Shells were collected during 
the expedition; Mr. Jukes and the Earl of Derby sent 
many to the British Museum, and the others were sent 
by Mr. Jukes to Mr. Cuming; from these the following 
new and interesting species have been selected ; the col- 
lection contains several others, but the examination and 
description of them would require more time than I can 
at this moment bestow on the subject. 


Votuta Sophia. 
Marine shells, Plate 1, f. 1. 2. 
Voluta Sophia, Gray, Ann. and Mag. N. H. 1847. 


Shell ovate, smooth, pale brown, with four series of 
squarish reddish brown spots, and brown lined near the 
suture in front of the pillar. 

Spire conical, convex very short, covered with a thin 
callous coat, apex blunt, pale whitish crenulated. 

Whorls very rapidly enlarging, with a spiral series of 
posterior, conical, acute, arched spines, last whorl ven- 
tricose. 

Mouth ovate, three times as long as broad, the pillar 
with four oblique equidistant plaits, the two front rather 

2a 2 


356 APPENDIX. 


the largest; the inner lip, and the part of the body whorl 
which lays on the body of the animal, is, like the spine, 
covered with a thin callous deposit. 

Var. Pale, reddish, very minutely red dotted, and with 
the spots of the bands more irregular, and less distinct, — 
fig. 2. 

Inhab.—Endeavour River. Cabinet of the British Mus. 
f. 2. and that of Mr. Cuming, fig. 1., the latter has lost the 
callous deposit on the spine and body whorl. 

I have named this species in compliment to my daughter, 
to whom J am indebted for many drawings of new species 
of shells. 


Cypraa Comptonii. 
Marine shells, Plate 1. f. 8. 


Shell ovate, grey brown, (when young, paler zoned) with 
three darker bands. 

Spire, small,. flattened, hidden, right margin rather 
thickened, sharp edged above, reddish white minutely 
black dotted, and stained with black, brown above in front ; 
left margin roundish, scarcely thickened, brown dotted. 

Under side purplish brown, mouth moderate, rather 
-wider in front, teeth small, well defined, the outer hinder 
ones rather the larger, the columella with an elongated con- 
cavity in front not plaited. ; 

Inhab.—Port Essington. My cabinet. 

Mr. Gaskoin, who has described several new species of 
this genus since the publication of my Monograph, agrees 
with me in considering this species as distinct, and 
hitherto undescribed. The two specimens I have seen differ 
a little in the degrees of their ventricoseness. 

The spots on the left side of the margin are rather the 
largest, and there are no spots on the lower surface. 


APPENDIX. 357 


I have named this interesting species in honour of the 
Marquess of Northampton, P.R.S. whose unceasing exer- 
tions in the cause of science, and especially of Natural 
History, are well known to all. 


ANCILLARIA (tricolor. 


Marine shells, Plate 1. f. 4. 


Shell ovate, rather elongate, imperforate, purplish brown, 
spirally and concentrically but indistinctly striated, thin, 
smooth, very minute. 

Spire conical, rather shorter than the length of the last 
whorl, blunt at the tip. Whorls slightly rounded, pale 
in front, last with a broad bright orange brown band in front. 

The anterior enamel band, single, narrow, dark orange 
brown, about half as broad as the brown band, the front half 
pure white, the hinder or sutural enamel band, narrower 
than the front one, pure opaque white. 

Pillar much curved without any plaits. Mouth ovate, 
twice as long as wide; outer lip (toothless?) throat brown. 

Inhab.—Cape York on sand. Cabinet of Mr. Cuming. 


ANCILLARIA elongata. 
Marine shells, Plate 1. f. 5. 


Shell ovate, elongate, imperforate, white, tliin, smooth. 

Spire, conical, one-third the length of the shell, rather 
blunt at the top; upper whorls spirally ridged, last whorl 
spirally striated, and slightly concentrically wrinkled. 

Anterior enamel belt, single, polish white ; the posterior 
enamel belt, similar but rather wider; pillar rather curved, 
without any plaits; mouth elongate, ovate; throat white, 
outer lip toothless. Axis. Diam. 


Inhab.—Dupeeck’s Island. Cabinet of Mr. Cuming. 


358 APPENDIX. 


SCALARIA striata. 


Marine Shells, Plate 2. f. 6. 


Shell conical, turreted, white, whorls rounder convex, 
close together, minutely, closely and regularly spirally 
striated, and crossed with rather close thin equal lamine ; 
front of last whorl simply rounded ; the axis about twice as 
long as the diameter of the last whorl, perforated; suture 
simple. : 

Mouth ovate, the concentric laminz near the mouth 
thicker and more crowded. 

Axis 16 lines, diameter 8 lines, length of mouth 6 lines. 

Inhab.—Port Essington. Cabinet of Mr. Cuming. 

There is in the collection an imperfect specimen of a 
second species from the same locality, which differs from the 
former in being more elongate and tapering, smooth, not 
spirally striated, the crossribs thicker, rather farther apart, 
and the whorls rather more pressed together at the suture. 
It may be called Scalaria Essingtoniensis. Axis 9 lines, 
diam. 4 lines. 


ImPERATOR nobilis. 
Marine Shells, Plate 2, f. 7. 


Shell trochiform, pale white ; spire conical. 

Whorls nearly flat, smooth, the outer edge of the upper 
whorls being furnished with a broad expanded margin, 
which is broadly plaited on the upper side; the plaits be- 
coming thicker and more prominent on the edge of the last 
whorl. 

The front of the last whorl with regular spiral ridges, 
each crossed with regular imbricate arched scales, the second 


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- MARINE SHELLS. Plate 2. 


Hullmandel % Walton lathographers. 


Pub*by T & W.Boone.London. : 


- APPENDIX. : 359 


and third near the circumference largest, and those nearest 
to them closer together. 

The axis imperforated, covered with the rather expanded 
inner lip. | 

The mouth crenated, the throat silvery pearly. 

Inhab.—Darnley Island. Cabinet of Mr. Cuming. 


TuRBO sguamosus. 


Marine Shells, Plate 2, f. 8. 


Shell conical squamose, green brown, varied; apex 
acute. 

Whorls rounded, with a deep rounded groove near the 
suture, the upper ones with very thin concentrical lamine, 
and five spiral rounded ridges, the last with large 
crowded concentric laminz, with eleven spiral ribs; the 
second from the front being broadest and_ flat-topped. 

The axis perforated, and the perforations white, flat 
edged, with a sharp edged raised rim. 

The edge of the mouth crenated. 

Throat silvery pearly. 

Inhab.— Port Essington, N. Australia. Cabinet of Mr. 
Cuming. | 


STOMATELLA elegans. 
Marine Shells, Plate 2, f. 1. 


Shell oblong, rather depressed, white, black spotted, 
shewing the pearl through the semi-transparent outer coat, 
closely and regularly spirally striated and concentrically 
wrinkled. 

Spire small, conical, whorls convex, rounded; the last 
very rapidly enlarging. 


360 ePPER DIX. 


Mouth oblong, spread out twice as wide as the diameter 
of the last whorl but one; the pillar less arched, flattened. 

The axis imperforated. 

Throat silvery pearly, smooth. 

Inhab.—Raine’s Island. Cabinet of Mr. Cuming. 


STOMATELLA rufescens. 


Marine Shells, Plate 2, f. 2. 


Shell suborbicular, rather depressed, brown. 

Spire, conical, rather acute. 

Whaorls rapidly enlarging, rather convex, concentrically 
striated with rather unequal acute spiral ridges, the upper 
whorls with two or three of the ridges larger and higher 
than the rest, the last with closer less raised ridges in front, 

Mouth oblong, two-thirds the diameter of the shell in 
width, inner lip arched, edge crenulate. 

Axis imperforated. 

Throat silvery pearly, with a pale reddish edge. | 

Inhab.—Raine’s Island. Cabinet of Mr. Cuming. 


Lepa chuva. 
Marine Shells, Plate.2, f. 3. 


Shell ovate, convex, longitudinal, about half as long 
again as high, pale olive, with paler zones, and covered 
with regular concentric ridges, rounder in front, rather 
produced and bent up behind, with the hinder slope 
defined by a well-marked impressed groove, which inter- 
rupts the concentric ridges. The lunule ovate, lanceo- 
Jate, concave, and regularly grooved. 


APPENDIX. 361 


The umbo scarcely produced, in the middle of the shell, 
inside white. 

Length, 1 inch; height, 73 lines; thickness, 44 lines. 

Inhab.— Van Diemen’s Land, Hobart Town. Mr. 
Cuming’s cabinet. 

It should be observed that the superficial ridges of this 
species, as in many others of the genera, are not concentric 
with the margin of the valve, but are commenced in the 
middle of the lower edge and the outer one, (as does also 
the second), terminates before it reaches the end of the 


shell. 


Mo.o1a Mulleri. 
Marine Shells, Plate 2, f. 4. 


Shell oblong, subquadrangular, smooth, dark olive brown, 
with a paler marginal zone, rather more than half as long 
again as high, rounder at each end, the hinder end highest. 

Length, 1 inch 3 lines; height, | inch; thickness, 7 lines. 

Inhab.—Port Essington. Cabinet of Mr. Cuming. 


TRIGONIA uniophora. 
Marine Shells, Plate 2, f. 5. 


Shell reddish brown, with twenty-two or twenty-three 
high, rather compressed, rather close diverging ribs, the 
upper part of the central, and the whole of the posterior 
lips covered with close, regular transverse plates ; the ante- 
rior and the lower part of the central ribs with large 
roundish or oblong solid tubercles. 

The hinder slope with five or six nodulose ribs. 

Inhab.— Cape York, in 6 fathoms. Cabinet of Mr. 
Cuming. 


APPENDIX. | 


ANomta Aistratia. 


Shell suborbicular straight above, and single wareakor? 
each side, opaque white, the upper valve convex, wane . 
numerous nearly regular radiating ribs, which become eva- 
-—s nescenit (perhaps from wearing), near the margin. Under 
valve concave, greenish. The perforation or anterior notch r 
small, oblong. The plug shelly. ape 
i Inhab.— Port Essington, es to rocks. 


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WITH PLANS OF HIS ACTION OFF CAPE ST. VINCENT. 


“ Tf we read the account of that naval action in which, with a force wholly unequal, 
had it not been directed by the utmost skill and valour, to compete with the enemy— 
if we read the account of that action in which, in the space of five minutes, a signal 
victory was achieved, by which the glory of St. Vincent was revived—I say, if we read 
the records of such an action, we shall find that the commander borethe name of Na- 
pier.”—Speechof Sir Robert Peel. 

«¢ An excellent and spirit-stirring book—plain, honest, and straight-forward—the 
very stuff of which the web of history alone should be composed. This is indeed an 
honest, fair, and impartial history.”—Morning Chronicle. 

‘« In spirit and in keeping, from beginning to end, Admiral Napier’s ‘ War in Por- 
tugal,’ is the happiest picture we could conceive of the battle off Cape St. Vincent— 
its especial excellence consisting in a regardless bluntness of manner and language 
that is quite admirable and delightful.”— Monthly Review. 

“It is Ceesar’s Commentaries in the first person.” — Spectator. 

“< Candid to a degree, and sincere asa sailor’s will. This is the very stuff of which 
history should be composed.”’— Bell’s Messenger. 

“< If Admiral Napier be not distinguished by the common-place facilities of author- 
ship, he possesses the higher qualities of truth, discretion, and clear-sightedness, in no 
slight degree.” —Atlas. 

“In speaking of himself and his deeds, he has hit the just and difficult medium— 
shewing his real feelings, yet steering clear of affected modesty on the one hand, and of 
over-weening modesty on the other.” —Tait’s Magazine. 

“ This is a very graphic account of the affairs in which the gallant author figured so 
nobly, and added fresh lustre to the name of Napier.” —News. 


4 Published by T. & W. Boons, 29, New Bond Street. 


The THIRD EDITION, in one vol. post 8vo. price 10s. 6d. bds. of 


ADVENTURES IN THE RIFYE BRIGADE, 
IN THE 


PENINSULA, FRANCE, AND THE NETHERLANDS, 
FROM THE YEAR 1809 TO 1815, 
BY CAPTAIN JOHN KINCAID, Frrst BatTTaLion. 


“ An admirable little book.” — Quarterly Review. 

‘“« To those who are unacquainted with John Kincaid of the Rifles,—and few, we 
trow, of the old Peninsula bands are in this ignorant predicament, and to those who 
know him, we equally recommend the perusal of his book : it isa fac-simile of the man 
—a perfect reflection of his image, veluti in speculo. A capital Soldier, a pithy and 
graphic narrator, and a fellow of infinite jest. Captain Kincaid has given us, in this 
modest volume, the impress of his qualities, the beau tdeal of a thorough-going Soldier 
of Service, and the faithful and witty history of some six years’ honest and triumphant 
fighting. ete 

ae There is nothing extant in a Soldier’s Journal, which, with so little pretension, 
paints with such truth and raciness the ‘domestic economy’ of campaigning, and the 
down-right business of handling the enemy. 

‘« But we cannot follow further ;—recommending every one of our readers to pursue 
the Author himself to his crowning scene of Waterloo, where they will find him as 
‘quaint and original as at his debut. We assure them, it is not possible, by isolated 
extracts, to give a suitable impression of the spirit and originality which never flag from 
beginning to end of Captain Kincaid’s volume; in every page of which he throws out 
flashes of native humour, a tithe of which would make the fortune of a Grub-street 
Bookmaker.”— United Service Journal. 

‘¢ His book has one fault, the rarest fault in books, it is too short.” 

Monthly Magazine, April. 


Also, by the same Author, Second Edition, in one vol. post 8vo. price 10s. 6d. 
RANDOM SHOTS FROM A RIFLENAN. 


‘‘ It is one of the most pithy, witty, soldier-like, and pleasant books in existence.” 
United Service Journal. 

“‘ The present volume is to the full as pleasant, and what is still more strange, as 
original as the last. Criticism would become a sinecure if many such volumes were 
written : all left for us is to admire and recommend.’”—New Monthly Magazine. 

‘«< The present volume is likely to add to his reputation. It is a useful Appendix 
to the larger works of Napier and other military commentators. It is never dull, 
tedious, technical, or intricate.”— Times. 3 

«< Those who have read Captain Kincaid’s Adventures in the Rifle Brigade will seize 
this volume with avidity, and having dashed through it, will lay it down with only one 
feeling of regret—that it is not longer.”— News. 


Elegantly bound in the Uniform of the Regiment, 1 vol. post 8vo. price 10s. 6d. 
THE 


ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN JOHN PATTERSON, 


With Notices of the Officers, Sc. of the 50th, or Queen’s Own Regiment, 
FROM 180 TO 1821. 
DEDICATED BY PERMISSION TO QUEEN ADELAIDE. 


« This volume contains a well-written, yet unvarnished narrative, of the adventures 
of the 50th feot, (better known as the ‘ Dirty Half-bundred,’ from their black facings), 
during the Peninsular war. It argues well for the bravery, as well as modesty, of Cap- 
tain Patterson, that throughout his work we have but little of himself, and much of his 
brother officers.” —Bell’s Messenger. 

‘< Captain Patterson’s Adventures are the record of a brave soldier—of a dashing, 
high-minded British officer, who never fears a rival, and never knew what it was to 
have an enemy, or to hate any man, His descriptions are remarkable for their vivid- 
ness and accuracy, and his anecdotes will bear repetition once a week for life.”—Sun. | 

‘‘ Captain Patterson is one of the pleasantest of the numerous tribe of gallant officers 
who has done so much credit to the British name, by fighting and writine with equal. 
spirit ”—Constitutional, 


Published by T. & W. Boonr, 29, New Bond Sirect. . 5 


' In 2 vols. 8vo. only » price 24s. 
HISTORICAL RECORD 


OF THE 
= 


ROYAL MARINE FORCES, 
From their Formation to the Present Time, 


INCLUDING 


AN ACCOUNT OF THEIR SERVICES IN CHINA, 


BY P. H. NICOLAS, 


LIEUT. ROYAL MARINES, 


“« Mr. Nicolas has had a wide and fertile field to work upon, and excellently has he 
turned his materials to account. Impelled by a sincere attachment for his old. com- 
rades, by an ardent desire for their welfare, by the very natural wish for a more minute 
and connected narrative of their daring career than has hitherto been given to the 
world, he has produced a luminous and comprehensive work, than which none can be 
better of its class, and which reflects equal credit upon his feelings as an officer, and 
his talents as a writer.”—United Service Gazette. 

“These volumes cannot fail to prove eminently acceptable to the members of the 
gallant corps, whose honours they record, and generally indeed to the military service 
of both arms.”—WNaval and Military Gazette. 

' “It is historical, and must interest all historical readers; it is proudly national, 
and speaks to the heart of every Englishman; whilato the sailor, the soldier, and 
especially the marine, whose services it chronicles, it will prove a valuable record. 
It is a work, which for historical information, and clearness of arrangement, may 
fairly compete with any of its class.” —Literary Gazette. 


In One Volume, post 8vo. price 10s. 


A BRITISH ARMY, 
AS IT WAS,—IS,—AND OUGHT TO BE: 


ILLUSTRATED BY EXAMPLES DURING THE PENINSULAR WAR. 


With Observations upon India—the United States of America Canada— 
the Boundary Line—the Navy—Steam Warfare, Sc. Sc. 


BY LIEUT.-COLONEL JAMES CAMPBELL, 
Late Brigade-Major, 3rd Division, and formerly of the 45th and 50th Regiments. 


_— oe 


“We may safely affirm, that few military men can rise from its perusal without 
gratification and even benefit.”—United Service Gazette. 

“‘ Of very considerable merit, containing many suggestions which might be adopted 
for the benefit of British Soldiers. The work contains much valuable information in- 
teresting to every class of readers.” — Woolwich Army Register. 

‘« We have in this volume much that deserves attention. The work cannot be pe- 
rused by his brother officers, without interest and instruction.” — United Service Jour. 

“The author is a bold original thinker, and exercises his genius upon a subject which 
has seldom been examined with so much fearless acuteness.’”—Atlas. 

‘« The Colonel was himself upon the staff of the third division, during tae whole of 
the Peninsular war, and was one of the Duke’s real working and essential officers. 
That the book is most practically useful, no military man can read and doubt.” 


Isle of Man Sure 


6 Puolished by T. & W. Boone, 29, New Bond Street. 


THE HISTORY OF THE GERMAN LEGION,» 


FROM THE PERIOD OF ITS ORGANIZATION IN 1803, TO THAT OF ITS 
DISSOLUTION IN 1816. : 
Compiled from Manuscript Documents, 
By N. LUDLOW BEAMISH, Esa. F.R.S., LATE MAJOR UNATTACHED. 
Two vols. 8vo. complete, with Plans and Coloured Plates of Costumes, price £1. 10s. 
The second volume sold separately, price 10s. 


* The work is not like others we could name—a mere compilation from newspapers 
and magazines. Major Beamish has left no source of information unexplored; and 
the access he obtained to manuscript journals has enabled him to intersperse his general 
narrative with interesting personal anecdotes, that render this volume as delightful for 
those who read for amusement, as those who "read for profit.”-—- Atheneum. 

** We are altogether much pleased with the volume, and heartily recommend it to 
the British public.” —Literary Gazette. 


In One Volume, post 8vo, price 10s. 6d. boards. 
NARRATIVE OF 


EVENTS IN THE SOUTH OF FRANCE, 
AND OF THE ATTACK ON NEW ORLEANS IN 1814 AND 1815. 


By CAPT. I. H. COOKE, 43rd Regt. 


“‘ This clever and fearless account of the attack on New Orleans is penned by one 
of the § occupation ;’? whose soldier-like view and keen observation during the period 
of the stirring events he so well relates, has enabled him to bring before the public the 
ablest account that has yet been given of that ill-fated and disgraceful expedition, and 
also to rescue the troops who were employed on it from those degrading reflections 
which have hitherto unjustly been insinuated against them.”—Gent.’s Mag. 

“We wish earnestly to call the attention of military men to the campaign before 
New Orleans. It is fraught with a fearful interest, and fixes upon the mind reflections 
of almost every hue. Captain Cooke’s relation is vivid; every evolution is made as 
clear to the eye as if we had been present, and the remarks, we think, are eminently 
judicious. The book must be generally read,” &c.— Metropolitan. 

“Tt is full of good feeling, and it abounds with sketches of the service.’ 

Sunday Herald. 


MEMOIR BY 
GENERAL SIR HEW DALRYMPLE, Bart. 


OF HIS PROCEEDINGS AS CONNECTED WITH THE AFFAIRS OF SPAIN, 
AND THE 
COMMENCEMENT OF THE PENINSULAR WAR. 
) In one vol. post 8vo. price 9s. boards. 


“ The care bestowed upon this subject by Sir Hew Dalrymple, is evident in the pub- 
lication before us, which is unquestionably the most dignified, clear, and satisfactory 
vindication of Sir Hew’s motives and conduct, and forms, with the documents in the 
Appendix, a very valuable and authentic addition to the materials for the history of the 
period in question. Without a participation in the facts it discloses, the records of the 
war, as far as regards this particular subject are, in fact, incomplete or distorted.” 

United Service Journal. 


hg 


| 
‘ 
| 
| 


Published by T. & W. Boone, 29, New Bond Street. 7 


In 18mo. cloth, gilt leaves, price 2s. 6d. ; or, postage free, 3s., which may be sent in 
postage stamps, 


HINTS tro SUBALTERNS or toe BRITISH ARMY. 
By HENRY HARDBARGAIN, Late —~ Regt. 
Dedicated to W1LL1AM HiIGGINson DuFrF, Esq, &e. kc. ke. 
“¢ Scribimus indocti doctique.” 


Containing—Shketches of Commanding Officers—The Art of getting Leave of 
Absence—Military Miseries—Glossary, &c. 


“TI have also added, for the information of those non-military readers who may deign 
to peruse this small volume, a Glossary of those exclusively military terms, they might 
otherwise be at a loss to comprehend ; and which, the profound ignorance that great 
part of the world are in with respect to military matters, renders it most necessary to 
explain :—for instance, I assure my readers, that the other night when I was dining 
out, an old gentleman asked me whether the officers who were on guard in London, on 
the day of the Derby, did not receive a compensatory pension from government; nay, 
so firmly convinced was he that such was the case, that I had some difficulty in per- 
suading him that his impression on the subject was erroneous.”— Preface. 


In post 8vo. price ds. 
RECOLLECTIONS AND REFLECTIONS 
RELATIVE TO THE 
Duties of Troops composing the Advanced Corps of an Army, 
By LIEUT.-COLONEL I. LEACH, C.B., LATE oF THE RIFLE BRIGADE, 
Author of “ Rough Sketches of the_Life of an Old Soldier.” 


Also, by the same Author, 
A SKETCH OF THE 


SERVICES OF THE RIFLE BRIGADE, 


From its Formation to the Battle of Waterlco. 
In 8vo. price 2s. 6d. boards. . 


AN ESSAY ON THE PRINCIPLES AND CONSTRUCTION OF 


MILITARY BRIDGES, 
And the Passage of Rivers in Military Operations, 
By GENERAL SIR HOWARD DOUGLAS, Bart. K.S.C. &e. &e. 
The Second Edition, containing much additional Matter and Plates. 
8vo. price 20s. boards. 


“ Of this valuable work we expressed a very high opinion when it was first pub- 
lished ; and now that the able author has added much important new matter to it, we 
need only say that it is worthy of his own high reputation as a tactician and Military 
Engineer; and that no soldier in Europe can know his business thoroughly without 
consulting it.”—Literury Gazette. 


WAVAL EVOLUTIONS; 


; A MEMOIR. | 
By MAJOR-GENERAL SIR HOWARD DOUGLAS, Bart. K.S.C. &c. &e. 


Containing a Review and Refutation of the principal Essays and Arguments advocating 
Mr. Clerk’s Claims, in relation to the Manceuvre of the 12th of April, 1782; and vin- 
dicating, by tactical Demonstration, and numerous authentic Documents, the pro- 
fessional skill of the British Officers chiefly concerned on that memorable occasion. 


With plates, 1 vol. 8vo. price 10s. cloth boards. 


8 . Published by T. & W. Boonz, 29, New Bond Street. 


Third Edition, 18mo. cloth, gilt leaves, price 2s. 6d. 
SHORT WHIST, 
BY F. P. WATSON, ESQ. 
To which is added, 
LONG WHIST, 
WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR YOUNG PLAYERS,., 
BY ADMIRAL JAMES BURNEY. 
REVISEDYS Y .F.°P. WATSON: ESO: 


SEconD EDITION, 18mo. cloth, gilt leaves, price 3s. 


HAND-BOOK to the GAME OF BILLIARDS, 
ADDRESSED TO THE NOVICE AND THE PROFICIENT, 
With the Laws and 44 Diagrams, 


To which is added, 


POOL, 
BY) COLONED OR tt * oF; 
‘This is a very useful little book, and ought to be in the hands of all beginners.” 
Bell’s ‘Life i in London. 

“All that the Billiard player can acquire from instruction, he may gain from this 
hand-book ; and having well studied it, it will be his own fault if, by practice, he do not 
become a proficient i in this most delightful pastime.” — Argus. 

“ Every Billiard player, be he novice or proficient, will find this. a manual adapted 
exactly to his wishes.”—Court Journal. 


SIXTH EDITION, 18mo. sewed, price ls. 
HINTS TO THE CHARITABLE, 
BEING 
PRACTICAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROPER REGULATION. OF 
PRIVATE CHARITY: 
CONTAINING LETTERS ON 


THE COAL FUND, THE LOAN FUND, 

THE WIFE’S SOCIETY, | THE CHILDRENS’ ENDOWMENT 
THE PENNY CLUB, SOCIETY, 

THE BENEFIT SOCIETY, | &e. &e. &e. 


BY THE HON. AND REV. S. G.. OSBORNE, 
Author of “ Old Rainy Day,” 8vo. price 3d.; ‘‘ Hand-bill for the Cottage Wall,” &e. - 


Also by the same Author, 18mo. price 1s. 


HINTS 
FOR THE AMELIORATION OF THE MORAL CONDITION OF 


A VILLAGE POPULATION. 


J CONTENTS. 
THE SQUIRE, KEEPERS OF PUBLIC HOUSES, 
THE FARMER, THE LABOURER, ; 
THE TRADESMAN, FEMALE SERVICE, 


EDUCATION, &c. &e.. 


NOW READY, 


Iu 1 Vol. 8v0. with Maps und Woodcuts, price 10s. bound in eloth, 


PLP LILLIE II OOOO 


A BRIEF ACCOUNT 


OF THE 


DISCOVERY OF AMERICA 


BY THE NORTHMEN, 


In the Tenth Century, 
WITH 


NOTICES OF THE EARLY SETTLEMENTS OF THE IRISH 
IN THE WESTERN HEMISPHERE 


NORTH LUDLOW BEAMISH, 


FELLOW OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY, AND MEMBER OF THE ROYAL DANISH SOCIETY OF 
NORTHERN ANTIQUARIES, 


AUTHOR OF THE “ HISTORY OF THE GERMAN LEGION,” ETc. 


LONDON: 


T. AND W. BOONE, NEW BOND STREET. 


1841. 


EXTRACT FROM THE PREFACE. 


Amonc the various, valuable, and important publications of the Royal 
Danish Society of Northern Antiquaries, that which has created the greatest 
general interest in the literary world, is the able and elaborate work of 
Professor Rafn, which came out in Copenhagen in the year 1837, under the 
title of “ Anriqurrares American® sive Scriptores Septentrionales rerum Ante- 
Columbianarum in America.” 

This interesting publication, the fruit of great literary labour, and 
extensive research, clearly shews that the eastern coast of North America 
was discovered and colonized by the Northmen more than five hundred years 
before the reputed discovery of Columbus. 

These facts rest upon the authority of antient Icelandic MSS. preserved 
in the Royal and University Library of Copenhagen, and now, for the first 
time, translated and made public. Fac-similes of the most important of these 
documents are given in Professor Rafn’s work, together with maps and 
delineations of antient monuments illustrative of the subject; a Danish and 
Latin translation follows the Icelandic text, and the whole is accompanied by 
introductory observations, philological and historical remarks, as well as 
archeological and geographical disquisitions of high interest and value. 

The design of the writer of the following pages is to put before the 
public, in a cheap and compendious form, those parts of Professor Rafn’s 
work, which he considered were likely to prove most interesting to British 
readers, the greater part of whom, from the expense and language of the 
original publication, must necessarily be debarred from its perusal. The 
translations of the Sagas or Narratives are made substantially from the 
Danish version, of the correctness of which, coming from the pen of the 
learned Editor, there could be no doubt; but, in many cases, where the 
style of this version appeared to the translator to. depart from the quaint 
and simple phraseology of the original, the Icelandic text has been specially 
referred to, and an effort has been made throughout, to give to the English 
translation, the homely and unpretending character of the Icelandic Saga. 
In all cases where it was thought possible that doubts might arise, or where 
it was considered important to impress some particular fact or statement 
upon the mind of the reader, the original Icelandic word or expression is 
eiven: and free use has been made of the copious and lucid notes and 
commentaries of the learned Editor, to explain or illustrate the various 
etymological, historical, and geographical points which call for observation : 
As an appropriate introduction to the whole, is prefixed a sketch of the rise, 
eminence, and decline of Icelandic historical literature, from the Danish of 
Dr. P. E. Muller, Bishop of Zeeland. 

This publication forms an indispensable introduction to the celebrated 
work of Dr. Robertson, who appears to have been totally unacquainted 


with the early discoveries of the Northmen. 


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