ora a “A Bey f fA ve! Ba re ar Leen ee ae Be} a eae) yaw + eben) ce 4 « S U ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE. ee VOLUME I. == \\ i! ti snd sin} ee PAT A AGON IA IN hr ween NARRATIVE OF THE SURVEYING VOYAGES OF HIS MAJESTY’S SHIPS ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE, | ee THE YEARS 1826 AND 1836, oebcieinu we. due EXAMINATION OF THE SOUTHERN SHORES | ek | SOUTH AMERICA, AND LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1839. lo ‘ Ge /) le i uy So Bee eae fone a i rk o See of ZA) uf JA LONDON: Printed by J. L. Cox and Sons, 75, Great Queen Street, Lincoln’s-Inn Fields. VOLUME I. PROCEEDINGS Toe FIRST EXPEDITION, fiat. 1826—1830, UNDER THE COMMAND OF CAPTAIN P. PARKER KING, R.N., F.R.S. TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL OF MINTO, G.C.B., FIRST LORD COMMISSIONER OY THE ADMIRALTY. MY LORD: I have the honour of dedicating to your lordship, as Head of the Naval Service, this narrative of the Surveying Voyages of the Adventure and ~ Beagle, between the years 1826 and 1836. Originated by the Board of Admiralty, over which Viscount Melville presided, these voyages have been carried on, since 1830, under his lord- ship’s successors in office. — _ Captain King has authorized me to lay the results of the Expedition which he commanded, from 1826 to 1830, before your lordship, united to those of the Beagle’s subsequent voyages. 3 I have the honour to be, MY LORD, Your lordship’s obedient servaut, ROBERT FITZ-ROY. a Be 5 Care: \ + fon ‘ ; i ' ) ‘ * ‘ ) t oy a 1 : Cc - i: PREFACE. In this Work, the result of nine years’ voyaging, partly on coasts little known, an attempt has been made to combine giving general information with the paramount object—that of fulfilling a duty to the Admiralty, for the benefit of Seamen. Details, purely technical, have been avoided in the narrative more than I could have wished; but some are added in the Appendix to each volume: and in a nautical memoir, drawn up for the Admiralty, those which are here omitted will be found. There are a few words used frequently in the following pages, which may not at first sight be familiar to every reader, therefore I need hardly apologize for saying that, although the great Portuguese navigator’s name was Magalhaens—it is generally pronounced as if; written Magellan:—that the natives of Tierra del Fuego are commonly called Fuegians ;— and that Childe is thus accented for reasons given in page 384 of the second volume. In the absence of Captain King, who has entrusted to me the care of publishing his share of this work, I may have ~ overlooked errors which he would have detected. Being hurried, and unwell, while attending to the printing of his volume, I was not able to do it justice. xX PREFACE. It may be a subject of regret, that no paper on the Botany of Tierra del Fuego is appended to the first volume. Captain King took great pains in forming and preserving a botanical collection, aided by a person embarked solely for that purpose. He placed this collection in the British Museum, and was led to expect that a first-rate botanist would have examined and described it ; but he has been disappointed. In conclusion, I beg to remind the reader, that the work is unavoidably of a rambling and very mixed character ; that some parts may be wholly uninteresting to most readers, though, perhaps, not devoid of interest to all; and that its publication arises solely from a sense of duty. ROBERT FITZ-ROY. lnndon) March 1839. | INTRODUCTION. In 1825, the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty directed two ships to be prepared for a Survey of the Southern Coasts of South America ; and in May, of the following year, the ADVENTURE and the BEAGLE were lying in Plymouth Sound, ready to carry the orders of their Lordships into execution. These vessels were well provided with every necessary, and every comfort, which the liberality and kindness of the Admiralty, Navy Board, and officers of the Dock-yards, could cause to be furnished. On board the Adventure, a roomy ship, of 350 tons burthen, without guns,* lightly though strongly rigged, and very strongly built, were— Puitiip Parker Kine, Commander and Surveyor, Senior Officer of the Expedition. Wie COO Ri eee he: Lieutenant. Bi cAINSWORTH® ¢. fc... Master. PRR cae te Ee es UTED: - Excepting one for signals. XIl INTRODUCTION, G. Rowe *....0.....4! Purser. | I. Pe Saonniiaul we... Mate Je G. Wick RAM oc Mate J.D BRAND. ooyeehwese Mate. TeGraves iat Mate and Assistant Surveyor. G. Harrison ......... Mate. Ba Wi tLiaMss: hae. cs, Second Master. J Ae ARK seek aud puiecies Assistant Surgeon. W.W. Witsow ...... Midshipman. A NNGEAR, | neo log vast Master’s Assistant. A. MELLERSH ......... Volunteer 1st Class. J JIRURSEEES ESA Volunteer 2d Class. G. HopeskIn ......... Clerk. J. ANDERSON............ Botanical Collector. Gunner Boatswain and Carpenter. Serjeant and fourteen Marines; and about forty Seamen and Boys. In the Beagle, a well-built little vessel, of 235 tons, rigged as a barque, and carrying six guns, were— PRINGLE STOKES ...... Commander and Surveyor. OW), TAR WHS os oooh 6005 2 Lieutenant. W.G.SkyRING ...... Lieut. and Assist. Surveyor. Se PRIN oe. occ cee Master. © Ey BOWEN 8 254 2. -.-3.000 Surgeon. DS AMRIED oa Gales eee Purser. J. Kime 0 0t..cees Mate. B, Bywow, it. .32).4%5 Assistant Surgeon. Je WEA STORES gs... cuoigs cs Midshipman. eck LINDE 3). cles Volunteer 1st Class. WW SONES fc cess tose Volunteer 2d Class. J. MacDovALt ......... Clerk. Carpenter. Serjeant and nine Marines; and about forty Seamen and Boys. INTRODUCTION, X1il In the course of the voyage, several changes occurred among the officers, which it may be well to mention here. In September, 1826, Lieutenant Hawes inva- lided: and was succeeded by Mr. R. H. Sholl, the senior mate in the Expedition. In February, 1827, Mr. Ainsworth was unfortu- nately drowned; and, in his place, Mr. Williams acted, until superseded by Mr.S.S8S. Flinn, of the Beagle. Lieutenant Cooke invalided in June, 1827; and was succeeded by Mr. J. C. Wickham. In the same month Mr. Graves received infor- mation of his promotion to the rank of Lieutenant. Between May and December, 1827, Mr. Bowen and Mr. Atrill invalided; besides Messrs. Lunie, Jones, and Macdouall: Mr. W. Mogg joined the Beagle, as acting Purser; and Mr. D. Braily, as volunteer of the second class. Mr. Bynoe acted as Surgeon of the Beagle, after Mr. Bowen left, until December, 1828. In August, 1828, Captain Stokes’s lamented vacancy was temporarily filled by Lieutenant Sky- ring ; whose place was taken by Mr. Brand. Mr. Flinn was then removed to the Adventure ; and Mr. A. Millar put into his place. XIV INTRODUCTION. In December, 1828, the Commander-in-chief of the Station (Sir Robert Waller Otway) superseded the temporary arrangements of Captain King, and appointed a commander, lieutenant, master, and surgeon to the Beagle. Mr. Brand then invalided, and the lists of officers stood thus— Adventure (1828-30). Puittrp Parker Kine, Commander and Surveyor, Senior Officer of the Expedition. W Horeaynls ies eee Lieut. and Assist: Surveyor. Jt. WICKHAM oo. 58 Lieutenant. Sere. INN ed wr .... Master. Dre AABN eee eye ee Surgeon. G. Row iwetis ad Purser. Ge TAARRISON, ise rbesoas Mate. W.W. Witson......... Mate. BS Winnrame. 0 Second Master. SOAR. ts oo. aches Assistant Surgeon. _ A NU RLLE RSH) 030 e 8) Midshipman. 2 VU eines ac Master’s Assistant. DU EOSSHEEL SAU. 0.18. xs Volunteer 2d Class. Ge THODGSKIN' 14... 056 Clerk. J. ANDERSON ...0 02.00.22 Botanical Collector. Gunner Boatswain and Carpenter. Serjeant and fourteen Marines: and about fifty* Seamen and Boys. | Beagle (1828-30). Rozgert Firz-Roy ... Commander and Surveyor. W..G. SKYRING 3.00". Lieut. and Assist. Surveyor. J ASP, ds! be Lieutenant. IVES Wit aae 2 ee -.» Waster: * Twelve additional seamen having been ordered, by the Admiralty, for the Adelaide schooner. INTRODUCTION. xv Pio WILSON G4. nil Surgeon. W.. Moee «...5. eno (Acting) Purser. REO oti Pigs sn dip'p Mate. MOON OH less cis shed as Assistant Surgeon. | ee OTORES ccc. ..'s 3 Midshipman. tal Be Wha hoa hl 2. Carpenter. Dy BRAGLY | costed nd. g. Volunteer 2d Class. ds MuGGET |... be s08>o0 Clerk. Serjeant and nine Marines: and about forty Seamen and Boys. — In June, 1829, Lieutenant Mitchell joined the Adventure ; and in February, 1830, Mr. A. Millar died very suddenly :—and very much regretted. The following Instructions were given to the Senior Officer of the Expedition. ‘“‘ By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, &c. “Whereas we think fit that an accurate Survey should be made of the Southern Coasts of the Peninsula of South America, from the southern entrance of the River Plata, round to Childe; and of Tierra del Fuego; and whereas we have been induced to repose confidence in you, from your conduct of the Surveys in New Holland; we have placed you in the command of His Majesty’s Surveying Vessel the Adventure; and we have directed Captain Stokes, of His Majesty’s Survey- ing Vessel the Beagle, to follow your orders. ‘Both these vessels are provided with all the XV1 INTRODUCTION. means which are necessary for the complete execu- tion of the object above-mentioned, and for the health and comfort of their Ships’ Companies. You are also furnished with all the information, we at present possess, of the ports which you are to survey ; and nine Government Chronometers have been em- barked in the Adventure, and three in the Beagle, for the better determination of the Longitudes. ‘“‘ You are therefore hereby required and directed, as soon as both vessels shall be in all respects ready, to put to sea with them ; and on your way to your ulterior destination, you are to make, or call at, the following places, successively ; namely ; Madeira: Teneriffe: the northern point of St. Antonio, and the anchorage at St. Jago; both in the Cape Verd Islands: the Island of Trinidad, in the Southern Atlantic: and Rio de Janeiro: for the purpose of ascertaining the differences of the longitudes of those several places. « At Rio de Janeiro, you will receive any supplies you may require; and make with the Commander- in-chief, on that Station, such arrangements as may tend to facilitate your receiving further supplies, in the course of your Expedition. «¢ After which, you are to proceed to the entrance of the River Plata, to ascertain the longitudes of the Cape Santa Maria, and Monte Video: you are then to proceed to survey the Coasts, Islands, and Straits; from Cape St. Antonio, at the south side INTRODUCTION. XVI of the River Plata, to Chilée; on the west coast of America; in such manner and order, as the state of the season, the information you may have re- ceived, or other circumstances, may induce you to adopt. ‘¢ You are to continue on this service until it shall be completed; taking every opportunity to commu- nicate to our Secretary, and the Commander-in- Chief, your proceedings: and also, whenever you may be able to form any judgment of it, where the Commander-in-Chief, or our Secretary, may be able to communicate with you. ‘¢ In addition to any arrangements made with the Admiral, for recruiting your stores, and provisions; you are, of course, at liberty to take all other means, which may be within your reach, for that essential purpose. : ‘« You are to avail yourself of every opportunity of collecting and preserving Specimens of such objects of Natural History as may be new, rare, or interesting ; and you are to instruct Captain Stokes, and all the other Officers, to use their best diligence in increasing the Collections in each ship: the whole of which must be understood to belong to the Public. ‘In the event of any irreparable accident happen- ing to either of the two vessels, you are to cause the officers and crew of the disabled vessel to be b XViil INTRODUCTION, removed into the other, and with her, singly, to proceed in prosecution of the service, or return to England, according as circumstances shall appear to require ; understanding that the officers and crews of both vessels are hereby authorized, and required, to continue to perform their duties, according to their respective ranks and stations, on board either vessel to which they may be so removed. Should, unfortunately, your own vessel be the one disabled, | you are in that case to take the command of the Beagle: and, in the event of any fatal accident hap- pening to yourself; Captain Stokes is hereby au- thorized to take the command of the Expedition ; either on board the Adventure, or Beagle, as he may prefer ; placing the officer of the Expedition who may then be next in seniority to him, in com- mand of the second vessel: also, in the event of your inability, by sickness or otherwise, at any period of this service, to continue to carry the Instructions into execution, you are to transfer them to Captain Stokes, or to the surviving officer then next in command to you, who is hereby required to execute them, in the best manner he can, for the attainment of the object in view. ‘¢ When you shall have completed the service, or shall, from any cause, be induced to give it up; you will return to Spithead with all convenient expedi- tion; and report your arrival, and proceedings, to our Secretary, for our information. INTRODUCTION. X1X «“ Whilst on the South American Station, you are to consider yourself under the command of the Admiral of that Station; to whom we have expressed our desire that he should not interfere with these orders, except under peculiar neces- sity. ‘“‘ Given under our hands the 16th of May 1826. (Signed) ‘ MELVILLE. “ G. COCKBURN. ‘To Phillip P. King, Esq., Commander of His Majesty’s Surveying Vessel Adventure, at Plymouth. ‘¢ By command of their Lordships. (Signed) “J. W. Croker.” On the 22d of May, 1826, the Adventure and Beagle sailed from Plymouth; and, in their way to Rio de Janeiro, called successively at Madeira, Teneriffe, and St. Jago. Unfavourable weather prevented a boat being sent ashore at the northern part of San Antonio; but observations were made in Terrafal Bay, on the south-west side of the island: and, after crossing the Equator, the Trade-wind hung so much to the southward, that Trinidad could not be approached without a sacrifice of time, which, it was consi- dered, might be prejudicial to more important objects of the Expedition. Both ships anchored at Rio de Janeiro on the | b 2 XX INTRODUCTION, 10th of August, and remained there until the 2d of October, when they sailed to the River Plata. In Maldonado,* their anchors were dropped on the 13th of the same month; and, till the 12th of November, each vessel was employed on the north side of the river, between Cape St. Mary and Monte Video. * On the north side of the river Plata. CONTENTS: VOLUME IT. CHAPTER I. Departure from Monte Video—Port Santa Elena—Geologi- cal remarks—Cape Fairweather—Non-existence of Chalk —Natural History—Approach to Cape Virgins, and the Strait of Magalhaens (or Magellan)...... ils 'siticeid ais wide snlplaa tees CHAPTER II. Enter the Strait of Magalhaens (or Magellan), and anchor off Cape Possession—First Narrow—Gregory Bay—Pata- gonian Indians— Second Narrow — Elizabeth Island — Freshwater Bay—Fuegian Indians—Arrival at Port Famine CHAPTER III. Prepare the Beagle, and a decked boat (the Hope) for sur- veying the Strait—Beagle sails westward, and the Hope towards the south-east—Sarmiento’s Voyage—and des- cription of the colony formed by him at Port Famine— Steamer Duck—Large trees—Parroquets—Mount Tarn— Barometrical observations—Geological character—Report OUP eRTLOpe:S) CLUISE 1.05 Shioisiauiacts oycslos sinals ad ogbe sdabind qaebele eens CHAPTER IV. Deer seen—Hope sails again—Eagle Bay—Gabriel Channel —‘ Williwaws ’—Port Waterfall — Natives — Admiralty Sound—Gabriel Channel—Magdalen Channel—Hope re- turns to Port Famine—San Antonio—Lomas Bay—Loss of boat—Master and two seamen drowned .............0+06: PAGE 26 XX11 CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. PAGE Lieutenant Sholl arrives—Beagle returns—Loss of the Saxe Coburg sealer—Captain Stokes goes to Fury Harbour to save her Crew—Beagle’s proceedings—Bougainville’s me- morial—Cordova’s memorial—Beagle’s danger—Difiicul- ties—Captain Stokes’s boat-cruise—Passages—Natives— Dangerous service—Western entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens—Hope’s cruise—Prepare to return to Monte VIO. ows ies cune sce sees ahs hint dedsiebiet se e'sam ceca eee eR eRe amie 65 CHAPTER VI. Trees—Leave Port Famine—Patagonians—Gregory Bay— Bysante—Maria—Falkner’s account of the Natives— Indians seen on the borders of the Otway Water, in 1829 —Maria visits the Adventure—Religious ceremony—Pata- gonian Encampment—Tomb of a Child—-Women’s em- ployment—Children—Gratitude of a Native—Size of Patagonians—Former accounts of their gigantic height— Character — Articles for barter— Fuegians living with Patagonians—Ships sail—Arrive at Monte Video and Rio Me PANEILO oso cecgscne testes esoanceasdecesdets - 7th ean 84 CHAPTER VII. Leave Rio de Janeiro — Santos — S* Catharina — Monte Video—Purchase the Adelaide schooner, for a Tender to the Adventure—Leave Monte Video—Beagle goes to Port Desire—Shoals off Cape Blanco—Bellaco Rock—Cape Virgins—Possession Bay—First Narrow—Race—Gregory Bay—View—Tomb—Traffic with Natives—Cordial meet- ing—Maria goes on board—Natives intoxicated—Laredo Bay——Port Famine. , ih). peak stidph ted. cs sce on: caters to cep ace 106 CHAPTER VIII. Find that the Cutter had been burned—Anxiety for the Bea- gle—Uxbridge Sealer—Beagle arrives—Her cruise—Bel- laco Rock—-San Julian—Santa Cruz—Gallegos—Adeona CONTENTS. X XI] PAGE —Death of Lieutenant Sholl—Adelaide sails—Supposed Channel of San Antonio—Useless Bay— Natives— Port San Antonio—Humming-birds—Fuegians— Beagle sails —Sarmiento — Roldan — Pond — Whales —Structure — Scenery—Port Gallant ........ bles ie cBceea th se aeweniowte aan lenel 118 CHAPTER IX. Detention in Port Gallant — Humming-birds in snow showers—Fuegians—Geological remarks—Canoes—Car- ving—Birds— Fish—Shag Narrows— Glaciers— Avalan- ches—Natives—Climate— Winter setting in—Adelaide loses a boat—Floods—Lightning —Scurvy— Adelaide’s survey—Bougainville Harbour—Indians cross the Strait, and visit Port Famine—Sealing vessels sail—Scurvy in- creases—Adelaide sent for guanaco meat—Return of the Beagle—Captain Stokes very ill—Adelaide brings meat from the Patagonians—Death of Captain Stokes............ 133 CHAPTER X. Account of the Beagle’s cruise—Borja Bay—Cape Quod— Stuart Bay — Cape Notch—Remarks on weather, and errors of Chart—Evangelists—Santa Lucia—Madre de Dios—Gulf of Trinidad—Port Henry—Puma’s track— Humming-birds—Very bad weather—Campana Island— Dangers—Gale—Wet—Sick—Santa Barbara—Wager’s beam—Wigwams—Guaineco Islands—Cape Tres Montes —St. Paul—Port Otway—Hoppner Sound—Cape Raper 154 CHAPTER XI. Leave Port Otway—San Quintin Sound—Gulf of Pefias— Kelly Harbour—St. Xavier Island—Death of Serjeant ‘Lyndsey—Port Xavier—Ygnacio Bay—Channel’s mouth —Bad weather—Perilous situation—Lose the yawl—Sick list—Return to Port Otway—Thence to Port Famine— Gregory Bay—Natives—Guanaco meat—Skunk—Con- dors—Brazilians—Juanico—Captain Foster—Changes of officers XX1V CONTENTS, CHAPTER XII. is PAGE Adventure sails from Rio de Janeiro to the River Plata— Gorriti—Maldonado—Extraordinary Pampero—Beagle’s losses—Ganges arrives—another Pampero—Go up the river for water—Gale, and consequent detention—Sail from Monte Video— part from Consorts— Port Desire —Tower Rock—Skeletons—Sea Bear Bay —Fire — Guanacoes—Port Desire Inlet—Indian graves—Vessels separate — Captain Foster—Chanticleer — Cape Horn — Kater Peak—Sail from St. Martin Cove — Tribute to Captain Foster—Valparaiso—Santiago— Pinto Heights— Childe AIGUMate Ts. cect et aetean uy -taseve tos ete er cntea cues 189 CHAPTER XIII. Beagle and Adelaide anchor in Possession Bay—Beagle passes the First Narrow—Fogs—Pecket Harbour—Ade- laide arrives with Guanaco meat—Portuguese Seamen— Peculiar liight—Party missing—Return—Proceed towards Port Famine—Fuegians—Lieut. Skyring—Adelaide sails to survey Magdalen and Barbara Channels—Views—Lyell Sound— Kempe Harbour—Cascade Bay—San Pedro Sound— Port Gallant — Diet — Rain — Awnings — Boat cruise — Warning — Jerome Channel— Blanket bags— Otway Water—Frequent rain—Difficulty in lighting fires 212 CHAPTER XIV. Place for a Settlement—Frost—Boats in danger—Narrow escape—Sudden change—Beagle Hills—Fuegian Painting Tides—Medicine—Water warmer than the air—Jerome Channel—Mr. Stokes returns to the Beagle—Cape Quod —Snowy Sound—Whale Sound—Choiseul Bay—Return to the Beagle—Adelaide returns—Plan of operations— Difficulties removed—Preparations—Wear and tear of clothing—Ascend the Mountain de la Cruz—Sail from Port Gallant—Tides—Borja Bay—Cape Quod—Gulf of Xaultegua—Frost and snow—Meet Adelaide—Part— Enter Pacwic—srmivetat Childe: i :iyabit.eccdoaeenne. . eee CONTENTS, XXV CHAPTER XV. PAGE Extracts from the Journals of Lieutenants Skyring and Graves—Magdalen Channel—Keats Sound—Mount Sar- miento—Barrow Head—Cockburn Channel—Prevalence of south-west winds—Melville Sound—Ascent of Mount Skyring—Memorial—Cockburn and Barbara Channels— Mass of Islets and Rocks—Hewett Bay—Cypress trees useful—Adelaide rejoins Beagle in Port Gallant—Captain King’s narrative resumed—Plan of future proceedings— Adelaide arrives at Childe—Abstract of Lieutenant Sky- ring’s account of her proceedings— Smyth Channel — Mount Burney—‘Ancon sin Salida’—Natives— Kirke Narrow—Guia Narrow—Peculiar tides—Indians in plank @amees—Passage to Childe (oi 0. ci ie ccaceccsncesseoscees 251 - CHAPTER XVI. Chilé6e—lIts probable importance—Valdivia founds seven Cities; afterwards destroyed by the Indians—Migration of Spanish settlers—Province and Islands of Chil6e—Dis- tricts and population—Government—Defence—Winds— Town—Durability of wooden Buildings—Cultivation— Want of industry—Improvement—Dress—Habits of lower Classes — Morality — Schools — Language — Produce — Manufactures—Exports and imports—Varieties of wood— Alerse—Roads—Piraguas—Ploughs—-Corn—Potatoes— Contributions—Birds— Shell-fish— Medical practitioners Be RCTC IOS CANIIAGE, a8 ai we Sepjon e's ove co.ow oa gaicesieoreiieaeinaties 269 CHAPTER XVII. Childe the last Spanish possession in South America—Freyre’s Expedition—Failure—Second Expedition under Freyre and Blanco—Quintanilla’s capitulation—Chilé6e taken— Aldunate placed in command—Childe a dependency of Chile—Beagle sails to sea coast of Tierra del Fuego— Adelaide repaired—Adelaide sails—Adventure goes to XXV1 CONPENTS. PAGE Valparaiso—Juan Fernandez—Fishery—Goats—Dogs— Geology—Botany—Shells—Spanish accounts—Anson’s voyage—Talcahuano—Concepcion—Pinoleo—Araucanian Indians—Re-enter the Strait of Magalhaens—Fuegians 298 CHAPTER XVIII. Adelaide’s last cruise—Port Otway—San Quintin—Marine Islands—Unknown river or passage—San Tadeo—Isthmus of Ofqui—San Rafael—Sufferings and route of Wager’s party — Channel’s Mouth — Byron — Cheap — Elliot — Hamilton—Campbell—Indian Cacique—Passage of the Desecho—Osorio—Xavier Island—Jesuit Sound—Kirke’s report—Night tides—Guaianeco Islands—Site of the Wager’s wreck—Bulkely and Cummings—Speedwell Bay —Indigenous wild Potato—Mesier Channel—Fatal Bay —Death of Mr. Millar—Fallos Channel—Lieutenant Sky- ring’s illness—English Narrow—Fish—Wigwams—In- dians—Level Bay—Brazo Ancho—Eyre Sound—Seal— Icebergs—Walker Bay—Nature of the Country— Habits of the Natives—Scarcity of population..........c.ceecesseees 323 CHAPTER XIX. Sarmiento Channel—Ancon sin Salida—Cape Earnest— Canal of the Mountains—Termination of the Andes— Kirke Narrow—Easter Bay—Disappointment Bay—Ob- struction Sound—Last Hope Inlet—Swans—Coots—Deer River—Lagoon—Singular Eddies—Passage of the Narrow —Arrival at Port Famine—Zoological remarks ............ 346 CHAPTER XX. Beagle sails from San Carlos—Enters Strait—Harbour of Mercy—Cape Pillar—Apostles—Judges—Landfall Island —Cape Gloucester—Dislocation Harbour—Week Islands —Fuegians—Latitude Bay—Boat’s crew in distress— Petrel—Passages—Otway Bay—Cape T'ate—Fincham Is- CONTENTS. XXVll PAGE lands—Deepwater Sound—Breaker Bay—Grafton Islands —Geological remarks—Barbara Channel—Mount Sky- ring —Compasses affected —Drawings— Provisions— Op- PUrMeT Ss LOSE URI ak rei Mile el Led RRA, 360 CHAPTER XXI. Skyring’s chart—Noir Island—Penguins—Fuegians—Sar- miento — Townshend Harbour— Horace Peaks — Cape Desolation—Boat lost—Basket—Search in Desolation Bay —Natives — Heavy Gale — Surprise — Seizure — Conse- quences—Return to Beagle—Sail to Stewart Harbour— Set out again—Escape of Natives—Unavailing search— Discomforts—Tides—Nature of Coast—Doris Cove— Christmas Sound—Cook— York-Minster—March Har- bour—Build a boat—Treacherous rocks—Skirmish with the Natives—Captives—Boat Memory—Petrel ............ 386 CHAPTER XXII. Mr. Murray returns—Go to New Year Sound—See Diego Ramirez Islands from Henderson Island—-Weddell’s Indian Cove—Sympiesometer— Return to Christmas Sound— Beagle sails—Passes the Ildefonso and Diego Ramirez Islands—Anchors in Nassau Bay—Orange Bay—Yapoos —Mr. Murray discovers the Beagle Channel—Numerous Natives—Guanacoes—Compasses affected—Cape Horn— Specimens—Chanticleer—Mistake about St. Francis Bay —Diego Ramirez Islands—Climate—San Joachim Cove— Barnevelt Isles—Evouts Isle—Lennox Harbour ............ 417 CHAPTER XXIII. Set out in boats—Find Guanacoes—Murray Narrow—Birch Fungus— Tide— Channel— Glaciers— View— Mountains Unbroken chain—Passages—Steam-vessels—Jemmy But- ton—Puma—Nest—Accident—Natives— Murray’s Jour- nal—Cape Graham—Cape Kinnaird—Spaniard Harbour XXVlil CONTENTS. PAGE —Valentyn Bay—Cape Good Success—Natives—Lennox Island—Strait le Maire—Good Success Bay—Accident— Tide race—San Vicente—San Diego—Tides—Soundings —North-East Coast—San Sebastian—Reflections—Port Desire—Monte Video—Santa Catharina—Rio de Janeiro 438 CHAPTER XXIV. A few Nautical remarks upon the passage round Cape Horn ; and upon that through the Strait of Magalhaens, or Ma- DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER FOR PLACING THE PLATES, VOLUME I, Map of South America Loose. Strait of Magalhaens .. Loose. “Patagonian... ate we Se as ane .. Frontispiece. “Monte Video .. a oe We oe fe ..to face page 1 Distant View of Mount Sarmiento (with two other views) 26 vCurious Peak—Admiralty Sound (with other views) 52 Patagonian ‘ toldo’ and tomb . na 94 « Monte Video Mole 105 ~ Rio de Janeiro ore . ae - 06 _/Fuegian Wigwams at Hope Hacre: in the Rragsaten Chenhel 126 uw Monte Video—Custom- House 187 vy’ Corcovado Mountain . 188 vw” Mount Sarmiento 252 yw San Carlos de Childe .. ose 275 « Breast Ploughing in Childe .. ae 287 / Point Arena—Chilée (with other views) as ae 300 * South West opening of Cockburn Channel (with views of Fee lands) Ne ais 407 “ Wollaston Island, near ne tion a - 433 » Chart of a part of South sii Mees by Cureae P. P. King 463 Norre.—The loose Plates are to be folded into pockets in the covers of _ the volumes. f r rm ae . \ r ‘ in wf ” a? ¥ ‘al ‘ ‘ ica %, “ = ' i. NY i! wi. - . nf 2G a ‘ va F Say to |) 1 Lt wid af a 4 ae ate toy at) / ' i ‘ thy Bee, ; , he re ’ + : it. i ' , i nl ¢ ae (/ i ‘ (viv nth 5 ue pets iad LPIRBL ad ~ ag his * AE SPATE oo ERRATA er CORRIGENDA. Page 76, line 4 from bottom, for lying, ead being. 118, Heading, line 4, for Beagle sailed, ead Beagle sails. 123, line 17, insert narrow, before and shoal. 164, line 23, instead of the, read our, 174, line 6, for cuts, 7ead cut. 193, line 5, for have, read had. 223, (Note) line 2 from bottom, for they, 7ead he. 229, line 9, for was, read were. 265, line 8, after day, insert a colon instead of a comma. 273, line 21, after as well, insert as. 301, line 23, for Lieutenants Skyring and Graves again took with them, vead Lieutenant Skyring again took with him. 411, line 2, dele the. 437, line 16, for contiue, read continue. — line 19, for wit, read with. 462, line 21, for Santa Catalina, read Santa Catharina, 473, line 17, after which is, insert a, 481, bottom line, for 53. 32. 30, read 53, 52. 30. 485, line 7, (of positions) for 53. 31, vead 53. 51. — bottom line, for 11. 51, read 3. 26. 488, line9, for Northern, ead Southern. 489, line 4 from bottom, for 46. 03, ead 46. 30; and for 40. 50, read 40. 05. 490. line 6, for 50°, ead 49°. 491, line 6, for 36, 56, ead 36. 16. 493, line 9, for 54. 30. 00, read 54. 05. 20; and for 73.. 1. 30, read 73. 25. 30. 526, for Variation, ead Dip. MAMMALIA. 529, line 8, for Harlau vead Harlan. 531, line 6, for KERODA vead KERODON, BIRDS. 532, line 1, for Dumeérel, ead Duméril. — line 7, for MILoAGo, read MILV AGO. — linel9, for SPAROERIUS, ead SPARVERIUS. 533, line 16, dele Spiz. — bottom line, for SILVIA, read SYLVIA, and in next page the same. 534, line 12, dele Fursa, Veillot. — line 10 from bottom, for SMARAGDIMIS, read SMARAGDINUS. 536, line 9 from bottom, for STRUTHEO, read STRUTHIO. — line 6 from bottom, for xinacea, read binacea. 537, line 14, for ToTAMus, vead TOTANUS. 538, line 5, for subtas, read subtus. — lower lines, where H@MATOPUS occurs, 7ead HaMATOPUS. 540, last line, for meneque, read mineque; and for parié, read parce. 541, line 12, for CATARRHOCTES, read CATARRHACTES. — line 2 from bottom, for wd, read ad. 543, line 13, for gracillimus, read gracillimis. SHELLS. 545, last line, for brachyptera, read brachypterus ; for Patachonica, read Patachonicus. “NE eee capi see =i 4 Pi ee HOS a TS cae 19087 PEST TL I a eel & oh v t > iN [| PeUg WsSnosIqyteyy Tea ‘Oa Gia fg IS gE ats eee a ee ne as ‘mrngjoo: ‘Aameay: Ag paystqtiy Hi SURVEYING VOYAGES OF THE ADVENTURE anp tHe BEAGLE, 1826—1830. CHAPTER I. Departure from Monte Video—Port Santa Elena— Geological remarks —Cape Fairweather—Non-existence of Chalk—Natural History— Approach to Cape Virgins, and the Strait of Magalhaens: (or Magellan). We sailed from Monte Video on the 19th of November 1826; and, in company with the Beagle, quitted the river Plata. According to my Instructions, the Survey was to commence at Cape San Antonio, the southern limit of the entrance of the Plata; but, for the following urgent reasons, I decided to begin with the southern coasts of Patagonia, and Tierra del Fuego, including the Straits of Magalhaens.* In the first place, they presented a field of great interest and novelty ; and secondly, the climate of the higher southern latitudes being so severe and tempestuous, it appeared important to encounter its rigours while the ships were in good condition—while the crews were healthy—and while the charms of a new and difii- cult enterprize had full force. * Commonly called Magellan. See p. 11. VOL. I, B Q PORT SANTA ELENA. Nov. 1826. Our course was therefore southerly, and in latitude 45° south, a few leagues northward of Port Santa Elena, we first saw the coast of Patagonia. I intended to visit that port ; and, on the 28th, anchored, and landed there. Seamen should remember that a knowledge of the tide is of especial consequence in and near Port Santa Elena. During a calm we were carried by it towards reefs which line the shore, and were obliged to anchor until a breeze sprung up. The coast along which we had passed, from Point Lobos to the north-east point of Port Santa Elena, appeared to be dry and bare of vegetation. There were no trees; the land seemed to be one long extent of undulating plain, beyond which were high, flat-topped hills of a rocky, precipitous character. The shore was fronted by rocky reefs extend- ing two or three miles from high-water mark, which, as the tide fell, were left dry, and in many places were covered with seals. | | As soon as we had secured the ships, Captain Stokes accom- panied me on shore to select a place for our observations. We found the spot which the Spanish astronomers of Malas- pina’s Voyage (in 1798) used for their observatory, the most convenient for our purpose. It is near a very steep shingle (stony) beach at the back of a conspicuous red-coloured, rocky projection which terminates a small bay, on the western side, at the head of the port. The remains of a wreck, which proved to be that of an American whaler, the Decatur of New York, were found upon the extremity of the same point; she had been driven on shore from her anchors during a gale. The sight of the wreck, and the steepness of the shingle beach just described, evidently caused by the frequent action of a heavy sea, did not produce a favourable opinion of the safety of the port: but as it was not the season for easterly gales, to which only the anchorage is exposed, and as appear- ances indicated a westerly wind, we did not anticipate danger. While we were returning on board, the wind blew so strongly that we had much difficulty in reaching the ships, and the boats were no sooner hoisted up, and every thing gat 4 uy A rae Nov. 1826. FIRE—GEOLOGY—GUANACOES. 3 made snug, than it blew a hard gale from the S.W. The water however, from the wind being off the land, was perfectly smooth, and the ships rode securely through the night: but the following morning the gale increased, and veered to the southward, which threw a heavy sea into the port, placing us, to say the least, m a very uneasy situation. Happily it ceased at sunset. In consequence of the unfavourable state of the weather, no attempt was made to land in order to observe an eclipse of the sun; to make which observation was one reason for visiting this port. The day after the gale, while I was employed in making some astronomical observations, a party roamed about in quest of game: but with little success, as they killed only a few wild ducks. ‘The fire which they made for cooking communicated to the dry stubbly grass, and in a few minutes the whole country was in a blaze. ‘The flames continued to spread dur- ing our stay, and, in a few days, more than fifteen miles along the coast, and seven or eight miles into the interior were over- run by the fire. ‘The smoke very much impeded our observa- tions, for at times it quite obscured the sun. The geological structure of this part of the country, and a considerable portion of the coast to the north and south, consists of a fine-grained porphyritic clay slate. ‘The summits of the hills near the coast are generally of a rounded form, and are paved, as it were, with small, rounded, siliceous pebbles, imbed- ded in the soil, and in no instance lying loose or in heaps ;_ but those of the interior are flat-topped, and uniform in height, for many miles in extent. The valleys and lower elevations, not- withstanding the poverty and parched state of the soil, were partially covered with grass and shrubby plants, which afford sustenance to numerous herds of guanacoes. Many of these animals were observed feeding near the beach when we were working into the bay, but they took the alarm, so that upon landing we only saw them at a considerable distance. In none of our excursions could we find any water that had not a brackish taste. Several wells have been dug in the valleys, both near the sea and at a considerable distance from it, by the gQ % fw 4. OYSTERS—QUADRUPEDS. Dec. 1826. crews of sealing vessels; but, except in the rainy season, they all contain saltish water. This observation is applicable to nearly the whole extent of the porphyritic country. Oyster- shells, three or four inches in diameter, were found, scattered over the hills, to the height of three or four hundred feet above the sea. Sir John Narborough, in 1652, found oyster-shells at Port San Julian; but, from a great many which have been lately collected there, we know that they are of a species different from that found at Port Santa Elena. Both are fossils. No recent specimen of the genus Ostrea was found by us on any part of the Patagonian coast. Narborough, in noticing those at Port San Julian, says, ‘* They are the biggest oyster- shells that I ever saw, some six, some seven inches broad, yet not one oyster to be found in the harbour: whence I conclude they were here when the world was formed.” The short period of our visit did not enable us to add much to natural history. Of. quadrupeds we saw guanacoes, foxes, cavies, and the armadillo; but no traces of the puma (Felis concolor), or South American lion, although it is to be met with in the interior. I mentioned that a herd of guanacoes was feeding near the shore when we arrived. Every exertion was made to obtain some of the animals; but, either from their shyness, or our igno- rance of the mode of entrapping them, we tried in vain, until the arrival of a small sealing-vessel, which had hastened to our assistance, upon seeing the fires we had accidentally made, but which her crew thought were intended for signals of distress. They shot two, and sent some of the meat on board the Adven- ture. The next day, Mr. Tarn succeeded in shooting one, a female, which, when skinned and cleaned, weighed 168 Ibs. Narborough mentions having killed one at Port San Julian, that weighed, ‘ cleaned in his quarters, 268 Ibs.” The watch- ful and wary character of this animal is very remarkable. Whenever a herd is feeding, one is posted, like a sentinel, on a height ; and, at the approach of danger, gives instant alarm by a loud neigh, when away they all go, at a hand-gallop, to the next eminence, where they quietly resume their feeding, Dec. 1826. NATURAL HISTORY. 5 until again warned of the approach of danger by their vigilant ‘ look-out.’ Another peculiarity of the guanaco is, the habit of resorting ‘to particular spots for natural purposes. 'This is mentioned in the ‘ Dictionnaire d’Histoire Naturelle,’ in the ‘ Encyclopédie Méthodique,’ as well as other works. In one place we found the bones of thirty-one guanacoes collected within a space of thirty yards, perhaps the result of an encampment of Indians, as evident traces of them were observed ; among which were a human jaw-bone, and a piece of agate ingeniously chipped into the shape of a spear-head. The fox, which we did not take, appeared to be small, and similar to a new species afterwards found by us in the Strait of Magalhaens. The cavia* (or, as it is called by Narborough, Byron, and Wood, the hare, an animal from which it differs both in appear- ance and habits, as well as flavour), makes a good dish ; and so does the armadillo, which our people called the shell-pig.+ This little animal is found abundantly about the low land, and lives in burrows underground ; several were taken by the seamen, and, when cooked in their shells, were savoury and wholesome. Teal were abundant upon the marshy grounds. A few par- tridges, doves, and snipes, a rail, and some hawks were shot. The few sea-birds that were observed consisted of two species of gulls, a grebe and a penguin (Aptenodytes Magellanica). We found two species of snakes and several kinds of lizards. Fish were scarce, as were also insects; of the last, our collec- * Dasyprocta patachonica : it is the Patagonian cavy of Dr. Shaw, and Pennant’s Quadr., tab. 39, and the Lévre pampa of D’Azara. M. Desma- rest thinks that if the teeth were examined it would form a new genus, for which he proposes the name of Dolichotis (Eney. Meth. Mamm. p. 359). At present he has, from its external character, placed it amongst the genus Dasyprocta (agouti). The only one that was taken was not preserved, which prevented me from ascertaining the fact. + Dasypus minutus, Desm. Tatow pichiy, or tatou septidme of manna. &c. &c. It has seven bands. 6 SHELLS—BURIAL-PLACES, Dec. 1826. tions consisted only of a few species of Coleoptera, two or three Lepidoptera, and two Hymenoptera. Among the sea-shells, the most abundant was the Patella deaurata, Lamk. ; this, with three other species of Patella, one Chiton, three species of Mytilus, three of Murex, one of Crepi- ~ dula, and a Venus, were all that we collected. About the country, near the sea-shore, there is a small tree, whose stem and roots are highly esteemed for fuel by the crews of sealing-vessels which frequent this coast. They call it ‘piccolo.’ ‘The leaf was described to me as having a prickle upon it, and the flower as of a yellow colour. A species of berberis also is found, which when ripe may afford a very palatable fruit. Our short visit gave us no flattering opinion of the fertility of the country near this port. Of the interior we were igno- rant ; but, from the absence of Indians and the scarcity of fresh water, it is probably very bare of pasturage. Falkner, the Jesuit missionary, says these parts were used by the Tehuelhet tribes for burying-places: we saw, however, no graves, nor any traces of bodies, excepting the jaw-bone above- mentioned; but subsequently, at Sea Bear Bay, we found many places on the summits of the hills which had evidently been used for such a purpose, although then containing no remains of bodies. This corresponds with Falkner’s account, that after a period of twelve months the sepulchres are formally visited by the tribe, when the bones of their relatives and friends are collected and carried to certain places, where the skeletons are arranged in order, and tricked out with all the finery and ornaments they can collect. The ships sailed from Port Santa Elena on the 5th Decem- ber, and proceeded to the southward, coasting the shore as far as Cape ‘Two Bays. Our object being to proceed with all expedition to the Strait _of Magalhaens, the examination of this part of the coast was reserved for a future opportunity. On the 13th, we had reached within fifty. miles of Cape Virgins, the headland at the entrance of the strait, but it was directly in the wind’s eye yt be Dec. 1826. CAPE FAIRWEATHER—CHALK. 7 of us. ‘The wind veering to 8.8.W., we made about a west course. At day-light the land was in sight, terminating in a point to the S.W., so exactly like the description of Cape Virgins and the view of it in Anson’s voyage, that without considering our place on the chart, or calculating the previous twenty-four hours’ run, it was taken for the Cape itself, and, no one suspecting a mistake, thought of verifying the ship’s position. The point, however, proved to be Cape Fairweather. It was not a little singular, that the same mistake should have been made on board the Beagle, where the error was not dis- covered for three days.* From the appearance of the weather I was anxious to approach the land in order to anchor, as there seemed to be every likelihood of a gale; and we were not deceived, for at three o’clock, being within seven miles of the Cape, a strong wind sprung up from the S.W., and the anchor was dropped. Towards evening it blew so hard, that both ships dragged their anchors for a considerable distance. On the charts of this part of the coast the shore is described to be formed of “chalk hills, like the coast of Kent.” To geologists, therefore, especially, as they were not disposed to believe that such was the fact, this was a question of some interest. From our anchorage the appearance of the land favoured our belief of the existence of chalk. The outline was very level and steep ; precipitous cliffs of whitish colour, strati- fied horizontally, with their upper part occasionally worn into hollows, strongly resembled the chalk cliffs of the English coasts. The gale prevented our landing for three days, when (19th) a few minutes sufficed to discover that the cliffs were composed * A similar error was made by one of the ships of the fleet under Loyasa in the year 1525. The Nodales also, in their description of the coast, mention the similarity of appearance in the two capes, Virgins and Fairweather. ‘ Y venido de mar en fuera a buscar la tierra facilmente podian hacer de Rio de Gallegos el Cabo de Virgenes,” (and in making the land Cape Virgins may easily be mistaken for the river Gallegos). —Viage de los Nodales, p. 53. 8 CLIFFS—FISH. Dec. 1826. of soft clay, varying in colour and consistence, and disposed in strata running horizontally for many miles without interrup- tion, excepting where water-courses had worn them away. Some of the strata were very fine clay, unmixed with any other substance, whilst others were plentifully strewed with round siliceous gravel,* without any vestige of organic remains. The sea beach, from high-water mark to the base of the cliffs, is formed by shingle, with scattered masses of indurated clay of a green colour. Between the high and low tide marks there is a smooth beach of the same green clay as the masses above-men- tioned, which appears to have been hardened by the action of the surf to the consistence of stone. Generally this beach extends for about one hundred yards farther into the sea, and is succeeded by a soft green mud, over which the water gradually deepens. The outer edge of the clay forms a ledge, extending parallel with the coast, upon the whole length of which the sea breaks, and over it a boat can with difficulty pass at low water. The very few shells we found were dead. Strewed about the beach were numbers of fish, some of which had been thrown on shore by the last tide, and were scarcely stiff. They principally belonged to the genus Ophidium; the — largest that we saw measured four feet seven inches in length, and weighed twenty-four pounds. Many caught alongside the ship were, in truth, coarse and insipid; yet our people, who fed heartily upon them, called them ling, and thought them palatable. The hook, however, furnished us with a very wholesome and well-flavoured species of cod (Gadus). Attached to the first we found two parasitical animals; one was a Cymothoa, the other a species of Lerncea, which had so * Some of the specimens of the clay strata consist, according to Dr. Fitton, who has kindly examined my collection, of a white marl not unlike certain varieties of the lower chalk ; and of aclay having many of the properties of fuller’s earth. The pebbles on the beach~ consist of quartz, red jasper, hornstone, and flinty slate, but do not contain any stone resembling chalk flint. + Dr. Fitton considers these masses of clay to bear a resemblance to the upper green sand of England. Dec. 1826. RIVER GALLEGOS. 4) securely attached itself under the skin, as not to be removed ‘without cutting off a piece of the flesh with it. An undescribed species of Murcna was also taken. Whilst we were on shore, the Beagle moved eight or nine miles nearer to the Cape, where Captain Stokes landed to fix positions of remarkable land. One peaked hill, from the cir- cumstance of his seeing a large animal near it, he called Tiger Mount. Mr. Bowen shot a guanaco; and being at a distance in shore, unable to procure assistance, he skinned and quar- tered it with his pocket-knife, and carried it upon his shoulders to the boat. ; Next morning the ships weighed, and proceeded towards Cape Virgins. When a-breast of Cape Fairweather, the opening of the river Gallegos was very distinctly seen; but the examination of it was deferred to a future opportunity. Passing onward, the water shoaled to four fathoms, until we had passed exten- sive banks, which front the river. Our approach to the entrance of the Strait, although at- tended with anxiety, caused sensations of interest and pleasure not easily to be described. 'Though dangers were experienced by some navigators who had passed it, the comparative facility with which others had effected the passage showed that, at times, the difficulties were easily surmounted, and we were willing to suppose that in the former case there might have been some little exaggeration. ) The most complete, and, probably, the only good account of the navigation of the Strait of Magalhaens is contained in the narrative of Don Antonio de Cordova, who commanded the Spanish frigate Santa Maria de la Cabeza, on a voyage ex- pressly for the purpose of exploring the strait. It was pub- lished under the title of ‘ Ultimo Viage al Estrecho de Magal- lanes.’ ‘That voyage was, however, concluded with only the examination of the eastern part, and a subsequent expedition was made, under the command of the same officer, the account of which was appended to the Cabeza’s voyage ; so that Cor- dova’s expedition still retained the appellation of ‘ Ultimo 10 APPROACH TO THE STRAIT Dee. 1826 Viage, &c. It is written in a plain and simple style, gives a most correct account of every thing seen, and should therefore be in the possession of every person who attempts the naviga- tion of the strait. Cordova’s account of the climate is very uninviting. Speak- ing of the rigours of the summer months (January, February, and March), he says, ‘‘ Seldom was the sky clear, and short were the intervals in which we experienced the sun’s warmth : no day passed by without some rain having fallen, and the most usual state of the weather was that of constant rain.”* The accounts of Wallis and Carteret are still more gloomy. The former concludes that part of his narrative with the following dismal and disheartening description: ‘“‘ Thus we quitted a dreary and inhospitable region, where we were in almost continual danger of shipwreck for near four months, having entered the strait on the 17th of December, and quitted it on the 11th of April 1767: a region where, in the midst of summer, the weather was cold, gloomy, and tempestuous, where the prospects had more the appearance of a chaos than of nature; and where for the most part the valleys were with- out herbage and the hills without wood.” These records of Cordova and Wallis made me feel not a little apprehensive for the health of the crew, which could not be expected to escape uninjured through the rigours of such a climate. Nor were the narratives of Byron or Bougain- ville calculated to lessen my anxiety. In an account, however, of a voyage to the strait by M. A. Duclos Guyot, the follow- ing paragraph tended considerably to relieve my mind upon the subject :—‘ At length, on Saturday the 23d of March, we sailed out of that famous Strait, so much dreaded, after having experienced that there, as well as in other places, it was very fine, and very warm, and that for three-fourths of the time the sea was perfectly calm.” In every view of the case, our proximity to the principal scene of action occasioned sensations of a peculiar nature, in which, however, those that were most agreeable and hopeful * Ultimo Viage al Estrecho de Magallanes, part ii. p. 298. are Y Dec. 1826. OF MAGALHAENS. tl preponderated. The officers and crews of both ships were healthy, and elated with the prospect before them; our vessels were in every respect strong and sea-worthy ; and we were possessed of every comfort and resource necessary for encoun- tering much greater difficulties than we had any reason to anticipate. There has existed much difference of opinion as to the correct mode of spelling the name of the celebrated navigator who discovered this Strait. The French and English usually write it Magellan, and the Spaniards Magallanes; but by the Portuguese (and he was a native of - Portugal) it is universally written Magalhaens. Admiral Burney and Mr. Dalrymple spell it Magalhanes, which mode I have elsewhere adopted, but I have since convinced myself of the propriety of following the Portuguese orthography for a name which, to this day, is very common both in Portugal and Brazil. CHAPTER IT. Enter the Straits of Magalhaens (or Magellan), and anchor off Cape Possession — First Narrow—Gregory Bay — Patagonian Indians— Second Narrow — Elizabeth Island— Freshwater Bay— Fuegian Indians—Arrival at Port Famine. A contrary tide and light winds detained us at anchor near Cape Virgins until four o'clock in the afternoon, when, with the turn of the tide, a light air carried us past Dungeness Point, aptly named by Wallis from its resemblance to that in the English Channel. A great number of seals were huddled together upon the bank, above the wash of the tide, whilst others were sporting about in the surf. Cape Possession was in sight, and with the wind and tide in our favour we pro- ceeded until ten o’clock, when the anchor was dropped. At daylight we found ourselves six miles to the eastward of the cape. 'The anchor was then weighed, and was again dropped at three miles from the cape until the afternoon, when we made another attempt; but lost ground, and anchored a third time. Before night a fourth attempt was made, but the tide prevented our making any advance, and we again anchored. Mount Aymond* and “his four sons,” or (according to the old quaint nomenclature) the Asses’ Kars, had been in sight all day, as well as a small hummock of land on the 8.W. horizon, which afterwards proved to be the peaked hillock upon Cape Orange, at the south side of the entrance to the First Narrow. At this anchorage the tide fell thirty feet, but the strength of the current, compared with the rate at which we afterwards found it to run, was inconsiderable Here we first experienced * A hill on the north shore of Possession Bay, having near it, to the westward, four rocky summits, which, from a particular point of view, bear a strong resemblance to the cropped ears of a horse or ass. These are described less briefly in the Sailing Directions. Dec. 1826. SEA-WEED OR KELP. 13 the peculiar tides of which former navigators have written. During the first half of the flood* or westward tide, the depth decreased, and then, after a short interval, increased until three hours after the stream of tide had begun to run to the eastward. The following morning (21st) we gained a little ground. Our glasses were directed to the shore in search of inhabitants, for it was hereabouts that Byron, and Wallis, and some of the Spanish navigators held communication with the Patagonian Indians ; but we saw none. Masses of large sea-weed,+ drift- ing with the tide, floated past the ship. A description of this remarkable plant, although it has often been given before, may not be irrelevant here. It is rooted upon rocks or stones at the bottom of the sea, and rises to the surface, even from great depths. We have found it firmly fixed to the ground more than twenty fathoms under water, yet trailing along the sur- face for forty or fifty feet. When firmly rooted it shows the set of the tide or current. It has also the advantage of indi- cating rocky ground: for wherever there are rocks under water, their situation is, as it were, buoyed by a mass of sea- weed + on the surface of the sea, of larger extent than that of the danger below. In many instances perhaps it causes un- necessary alarm, since it often grows in deep water; but it should not be entered without its vicinity having been sounded, especially if seen in masses, with the extremities of the stems trailing along the surface. If there be no tide, or if the wind and tide are the same way, the plant lies smoothly upon the water, but if the wind be against the tide, the leaves curl up and are visible at a distance, giving a rough, rippling appear- ance to the surface of the water. During the last two days the dredge had furnished us with a few specimens of Infundibulum of Sowerby (Patella trochi-formis, Lin.), and some dead shells (Murex Magellani- cus) were brought up by the sounding-lead. : We made another attempt next morning, but again lost * Flowing into the strait from the east towards the west, + Fucus giganteus. t Usually called by seamen ‘ kelp.’ 14 FIRST NARROW. Dee. 1826. ground, and the anchor was dropped for the eighth time. The threatening appearances of the clouds, and a considerable fall of the barometer indicating bad weather, Captain Stokes agreed with me in thinking it advisable to await the spring- tides to pass the First Narrow: the ships were therefore made snug for the expected gale, which soon came on, and we remained several days wind-bound, with top-masts struck, in a rapid tide-way, whose stream sometimes ran seven knots. On the 28th, with some appearance of improving weather, we made an attempt to pass through the Narrow. ‘The wind blowing strong, directly against us, and strengthening as we advanced, caused a hollow sea, that repeatedly broke over us. The tide set us through the Narrow very rapidly, but the gale was so violent that we could not show more sail than was abso- lutely necessary to keep the ship under command. Wearing every ten minutes, as we approached either shore, lost us a great deal of ground, and as the anchorage we left was at a considerable distance from the entrance of the Narrows, the tide was not sufficient to carry us through. At slack water the wind fell, and as the weather became fine, I was induced to search for anchorage near the south shore. The sight of kelp, however, fringing the coast, warned me off, and we were obliged to return to an anchorage in Possession Bay. The Beagle had already anchored in a very favourable berth ; but the tide was too strong to permit us to reach the place she occupied, and our anchor was dropped a mile astern of her, in nineteen fathoms. The tide was then running five, and soon afterwards six miles an hour. Had the western tide set with equal strength, we should have succeeded in passing the Narrow. Our failure, however, answered the good purpose of making us more acquainted with the extent of a bank that lines the northern side of Possession Bay, and with the time of the turn of tide in the Narrow; which on this day (new moon) took place within a few minutes of noon. As we passed Cape Orange, some Indians were observed lighting a fire under the lee of the hill to attract our notice ; but we were too busily engaged to pay much attention to Dec. 1826. FALL AND STRENGTH OF TIDE. 15 their movements. Guanacoes also were seen feeding near the beach, which was the first intimation we had of the existence of that animal southward of the Strait of Magal- haens. When day broke (29th) it was discovered that the ship had drifted considerably during the night. The anchor was weighed, and with a favourable tide we reached an anchorage a mile in advance of the Beagle. We had shoaled rather suddenly to eight fathoms, upon which the anchor was imme- diately dropped, and on veering cable the depth was eleven fathoms. We had anchored on the edge of a bank, which soon afterwards, by the tide falling, was left dry within one hundred yards of the ship. Finding ourselves so near a shoal, preparations were made to prevent the ship from touch- ing it. An anchor was dropped under foot, and others were got ready to lay out, for the depth alongside had decreased from eleven to seven fathoms, and was still falling. For- tunately we had brought up to leeward of the bank, and suf- fered no inconvenience; the flood made, and as soon as possible the ship was shifted to another position, about half a mile to the 8. E., in a situation very favourable for our next attempt to pass the Narrow. This night the tide fell thirty-six feet, and the stream ran six knots. The ensuing morning we made another attempt to get through the Narrow, and, from having anchored so close to its entrance, by which the full benefit of the strength, as well as the whole duration of the tide was obtained, we succeeded in clearing it in two hours, although the distance was more than twenty miles, and the wind directly against us, the sea, as before, breaking repeatedly over the ship. After emerging from the Narrow we had to pass through a heavy ‘race’ before we ‘reached’ out of the influence of the stream that runs between the First and Second Narrow, but the tide lasted long enough to carry us to a quiet anchorage. In the evening we weighed again, and reached Gregory Bay, where the Beagle joined us the next morning. Since entering the Strait, we had not had any communication 16 GREGORY BAY——NATIVES. Dec. 1826. with the Beagle on account of the weather, and the strength of the tide; this opportunity was therefore taken to supply her with water, of which she had only enough left for two days. The greater part of this day was spent on shore, examining the country and making observations. Large smokes* were noticed to the westward. ‘The shore was strewed with traces of men and horses, and other animals. Foxes and ostriches were seen; and bones of guanacoes were lying about the ground. The country in the vicinity of this anchorage seemed open, low, and covered with good pasturage. It extends five or six miles, with a gradual ascent, to the base of a range of flat- topped land, whose summit is about fifteen hundred feet above the level of the sea. Not a tree was seen; a few bushes} alone interrupted the uniformity of the view. The grass ap- peared to have been cropped by horses or guanacoes, and was much interspersed with cranberry plants, bearing a ripe and juicy, though very insipid fruit. Next day the wind was too strong and adverse to permit us to proceed. In the early part of the morning an American sealing vessel, returning from the Madre de Dios Archipelago on her way to the Falkland Islands, anchored near us. Mr. Cutler, her master, came on board the Adventure, passed the day and night with us, and gave me much useful information respecting the nature of the navigation, and anchorages in the Strait. He told me there was an Englishman in his vessel who was a pilot for the strait, and willing to join the ship. I gladly accepted the offer of his services. In the evening an Indian was observed on horseback riding to and fro upon the beach, but the weather prevented my send- ing a boat until the next morning, when Lieutenant Cooke went on shore to communicate with him and other Indians who appeared, soon after dawn, upon the beach. On landing, he was received by them without the least distrust. ‘They were eight or ten in number, consisting of an old man and his wife, three young men, and the rest children, all mounted on * Columns of smoke rising from large fires. + Berberis. Jan. 182. PATAGONIAN INDIANS. 17 good horses. The woman, who appeared to be about fifty years of age, was seated astride upon a pile of skins, hung round with joints of fresh guanaco meat and dried horse-flesh. They were all wrapped in mantles, made chiefly of the skins of guanacoes, sewed together with the sinews of the same animal. 'These mantles were large enough to cover the whole body. Some were made of skins of the ‘ zorillo,’ or skunk, an animal like a pole-cat, but ten times more offensive ; and others, of skins of the puma. The tallest of the Indians, excepting the old man, who did not dismount, was rather less than six feet in height. All were robust in appearance, and with respect to the head, length of body, and breadth of shoulders, of gigantic size; therefore, when on horseback, or seated in a boat, they appeared to be tall, as well as large men. In proportion to the parts above- mentioned, their extremities were very small and short, so that when standing they seemed but of a moderate size, and their want of proportion was concealed by the mantle, which enve- loped the body entirely, the head and feet being the only parts exposed. : When Mr. Cooke landed, he presented some medals * to the oldest man, and the woman; and suspended them round their necks. A friendly feeling being established, the natives dismounted, and even permitted our men to ride their horses, without evincing the least displeasure, at the free advantage taken of their good-nature. Mr. Cooke rode to the heights, whence he had a distinct view of the Second Narrow, and Elizabeth Island, whither, he explained to the Indians who accompanied him, we were going. Mr. Cooke returned to ike ship with three natives, Hern he had induced to go with us to Elizabeth Island ; the others were to meet them, and provide us with guanaco meat, to which arrangement the elders of the fornily 4 had, after * Previous to the expedition quitting England, I had provided myself with medals, to give away to the Indians with whom we might commru- nicate, bearing on one side the figure of Britannia, and on the reverse “George LV.” “Adventure and Beagle,” and “1826.” YOL, I. C 18 FATAGONIAN INDIANS. Jan. 1827. much persuasion, assented. At first they objected to their companions embarking with us, unless we left hostages for their safety ; but as this was refused, they did not press the point, and the three young men embarked. They went on board singing ; in high glee. While the ship was getting under way, I went ashore to a larger number of Indians who were waiting on the beach. When my boat landed they were mounted, and collected in one place. I was surprised to hear the woman accost me in Spa- nish, of which, however, she knew but a few words. Having presented medals to each of the party, they dismounted (except- ing the elders), and in a few minutes became quite familiar. By this time Captain Stokes had landed, with several of his officers, who increased our party to nearly double the number of theirs: notwithstanding which they evinced neither fear nor uneasiness. The woman, whose name was Maria, wished to be very communicative ; she told me that the man was her hus- band, and that she had five children. One of the young men, whom we afterwards found to be a son of Maria, who was a principal person of the tribe, was mounted upon a very fine horse, well groomed, and equipped with a bridle and saddle that would have done credit to a respectable horseman of Buenos Ayres or Monte Video. The young man wore heavy brass spurs, like those of the Guachos of Buenos Ayres. ‘The juvenile and feminine appearance of this youth made us think he was Maria’s daughter, nor was it until a subsequent visit that our mistake was discovered. ‘The absence of whiskers and beard gives all the younger men a very effeminate look, and many can- not be distinguished, in appearance, from the women, but by the mode in which they wrap their mantles around them, and by their hair, which is turned up and confined by a fillet of worsted yarn. The women cross their mantle over the breast like a shawl, and fasten it together with two iron pins or skewers, round which are twisted strings of beads and other ornaments. They also wear their hair divided, and gathered into long ,tresses or tails, which hang one before each ear ; and those who have short hair, wear false tails made of horse-hair. Under Jan. 1827. PATAGONIAN INDIANS. 19 their mantle the women wear a sort of petticoat, and the men a triangular piece of hide instead of breeches. Both sexes sit astride, but the women upon a heap of skins and mantles, when riding. The saddles and stirrups used by the men are similar to those of Buenos Ayres. The bits, also, are generally of steel ; but those who cannot procure steel bits have a sort of snafile, of wood, which must, of course, be frequently renewed. Both sexes wear boots, made of the skins of horses’ hind legs, of which the parts about the hock joints serve for the heels. For spurs, they use pieces of wood, pointed with iron, projecting backwards two or three inches on each side of the heel, con- nected behind by a broad strap of hide, and fastened under the foot and over the instep by ancther strap. The only weapons which we observed with these people were the ‘bolas,’ or balls, precisely similar to those used by the Pampas Indians; but they are fitter for hunting than for offence or defence. Some are furnished with three balls, but in general there are only two. These balls are made of small bags or purses of hide, moistened, filled with iron pyrites, or some other heavy substance, and then dried. They are about the size of a hen’s egg, and attached to the extremities of a thong, three or four yards in length. To use them, one ball is held in the hand, and the other swung several times around the head until both are thrown at the object, which they rarely miss. ‘They wind round it violently, and if it be an animal, throw it down. The bolas, with three balls, similarly connected together, are thrown in the same manner. As more time could not be spared we went on board, re- minding the natives, on leaving them, of their promise to bring us some guanaco meat. Aided by the tide, the ships worked to windward through the Second Narrow, and reached an anchorage out of the strength of tide, but in an exposed situation. ‘The wind having been very strong and against the tide, the ship had much motion, which made our Patagonian passengers very sick, and heartily sorry for trusting themselves afloat. One of them, with tears in his eyes, begged to be landed, but was soon convinced of the difficulty of conrpliance, Che 5 20 SECOND NARROW. Jan. 1827. and satisfied with our promise of sending him ashore on the morrow. After we anchored, the wind increased to a gale, in which the ship pitched so violently as to injure our windlass. Its con- struction was bad originally, and the violent jerks received in Possession Bay had done it much damage. While veering cable, the support at one end gave way, and the axle of the barrel was forced out of the socket, by which some of the paw!s were injured. Fortunately, dangerous consequences were pre- vented, and a temporary repair was soon applied. The Beagle, by her better sailing, had reached a more advanced situation, close to the N.E. end of Elizabeth Island, but had anchored disadvantageously in deep water, and in the strength of the tide. Next morning we made an attempt to pass round Elizabeth Island, but found the breeze so strong that we were forced to return, and were fortunate enough to find good anchorage northward of the island, out of the tide. The Patagonians, during the day, showed much uneasiness at being kept on board so much longer than they expected; but as they seemed to understand the cause of their detention, and as their sickness ceased when we reached smooth water, they gradually recovered their good-humour, and became very communicative. As well as we could understand their pronunciation, their names were ‘Coigh, ‘ Coichi,’ and ‘Aighen.’ The country behind Cape Negro they called ‘Chilpéyo ;’ the land of Tierra del Fuego, ‘Oschérri ;’ Elizabeth Island, ¢ Tuir- rétterr ;’ the island of Santa Magdalena, ‘Shrée-ket-tup ;’ and Cape Negro, ‘ Oérkréckur.’ The Indians of Tierra del Fuego, with whom they are not on friendly terms, are designated by them ‘ Sapallios. This name was applied to them in a con- temptuous tone. Aighen’s features were remarkably different from those of his companions. Instead of a flat nose, his was aquiline and prominent, and his countenance was full of expression. He proved to be gocd-tempered, and easily pleased ; and whenever a shade of melancholy began to appear, cur assurance of Jan. 1827. DIMENSIONS OF A NATIVE. 21 landing him on the morrow restored his good-humour, which was shown by singing and laughing. The dimensions of Coichi’s head were as follows :— From the top of the fore part of the head to the eyes........ 4 inches. DG ee aoe « do .-...-.-.. tothe tip ofthe nose 6 OT Rc 6 sie e owt ysa bad peeks to the mouth s2%. 22 vf DD pik 6 aici 5 ois 'e Ou em ceciece incr tO the,Chi 2. cere. 9 Width of the head across the CemAples | c= 2e.5 22 ae leiniee ei ie Hemedaihe Of Ghe, SHOUMIETS 1 o/s). <01s:s/aeie\ecele ess 6 « wisieye soe wire ¢ 183 The head was long and flat, at the top; the forehead broad and high, but covered with hair to within an inch and a half of the eyebrow, which had scarcely any hair. The eyes were small, the nose was short, the mouth wide, and the lips thick. Neck short, and shoulders very broad. The arms were short, and wanting in muscle, as were also the thighs and legs. The body was léng and large, and the breast broad and expanded. His height was nearly six feet. The next day we rounded Elizabeth Island, and reached Cape Negro, where we landed the Indians, after making them several useful presents, and sending some trifles by Aighen to Maria, who, with her tribe, had lighted large fires about the country behind Peckett’s Harbour, to invite us to land. Our passengers frequently pointed to them, telling us that they were made by Maria, who had brought plenty of guanaco meat for us. Our anxiety to reach Port Famine prevented delay, and, as soon as the boat returned, we proceeded along the coast towards Freshwater Bay, which we reached early enough in the afternoon to admit of a short visit to the shore. From Cape Negro the country assumed a very different character. Instead of a low coast and open treeless shore, we saw steep hills, covered with lofty trees, and thick underwood. The distant mountains of Ticrra del Fuego, covered with snow, were visible to the southward, some at a distance of sixty or seventy miles. We had now passed all the difficulties of the entrance, and had reached a quiet and secure anchorage. 9Q CAPE NEGRO—FRESHWATER BAY. Jan. 1827. The following day was calm, and so warm, that we thought — if Wallis and Cordova were correct in describing the weather they met with, Duclos Guyot was equally entitled to credit ; and we began to hope we had anticipated worse weather than we should experience. But this was an unusually fine day, and many weeks elapsed, afterwards, without its equal. The temperature of the air, in the shade on the beach, was 674°, on the sand 874°; and that of the water 55°. Other observations were made, as well as a plan of the bay, of which there is a description in the Sailing Directions. Here we first noticed the character of the vegetation in the Strait, as so different from that of Cape Gregory and other parts of the Patagonian coast, which is mainly attributable to the change of soil ; the northern part being a very poor clay, whilst here a schistose sub-soil is covered by a mixture of alluvium, deposited by mountain streams; and decomposed vegetable matter, which, from the thickness of the forests, is in great quantity. T'wo specimens of beech (Fagus betuloides and antarctica), the former an evergreen,—and the winter’s bark (Wintera aromatica), are the only trees of large size that we found here; but the underwood is very thick, and composed of a great variety of plants, of which Arbutus rigida, two or three species of Berberis, and a wild currant (Ribes antarctica, Bankes and Solander MSS.), at this time in flower, and forming long clustering bunches of young fruit, were the most remarkable. The berberis produces a berry of acidulous taste, that promised to be useful to us. A species of wild celery, also, which grows abundantly near the sea-shore, was valuable as an antiscorbutic. ‘The trees in the immediate vicinity of the shore are small, but the beach was strewed with trunks of large trees, which seemed to have been drifted there by gales and high tides. A river falls into the bay, by a very narrow channel, near its south end; but it is small, and so blocked up by trees as not to be navigable even for the smallest boat: indeed, it is merely a mountain torrent, varying in size according to the state of the weather. Jan. 1827. FUEGIAN INDIANS. 98 Tracks of foxes were numerous about the beach, and the footsteps of a large quadruped, probably a puma, were observed. Some teal and wild ducks were shot ; and several geese were seen, but, being very wary, they escaped. Upon Point St. Mary we noticed, for the first time, three or four huts or wigwams made by the Fuegian Indians, which had been deserted. They were not old, and merely required a slight covering of branches or skins to make them habit- able. These wigwams are thus constucted: long slender branches, pointed at the end, are stuck into the ground in a circular or oval figure; their extremities are bent over, so as to form a rounded roof, and secured with ligatures of rush ; leaving two apertures, one towards the sea, and the other towards the woods. The fire is made in the middle, and half fills the hut with smoke. ‘There were no Indians in the bay when we arrived, but, on the following evening, Lieutenant Sholl, in walking towards the south end of the bay, suddenly found himself close to a party which had just arrived in two canoes from the southward. Approaching them, he found there were nine individuals—three men, and the remainder women and children. One of the women was very old, and so infirm as to require to be lifted out of the canoe and carried to the fire. They seemed to have no weapons of any consequence; but, from our subsequent knowledge of their habits, and disposition, the probability is they had spears, bows, and arrows concealed close at hand. 'The only implement found amongst them was a sort of hatchet or knife, made of a crooked piece of wood, with part of an iron hoop tied to the end. The men were very slightly clothed, having only the back protected by a seal’s skin ; but the females wore large guanaco mantles, like those of the Patagonian Indians, whom our pilot told us they occasionally met for the purpose of barter. Some of the party were devouring seal’s flesh, and drinking the oil extracted from its blubber, which they carried in bladders. The meat they were eating was probably part of a sea lion (Phoca jubata); for Mr. Sholl found amongst them a portion of the neck of one of those animals, which is Q4 FUEGIAN INDIANS. Jan. 1827. remarkable for the long hair, “ like a lion’s mane,” grow- ing upon it. They appeared to be a most miserable, squalid race, very inferior, in every respect, to the Patagonians. They did not evince the least uneasiness at Mr. Sholl’s presence, or at our ships being close to them; neither did they interfere with him, but remained squatting round their fire while he staid near. This seeming indifference, and total want of curlosity, gave us no favourable opinion of their character as intellectual beings; indeed, they appeared to be very little removed from brutes; but our subsequent knowledge of them has convinced us that they are not usually deficient in intellect. This party was perhaps stupified by the unusual size of our ships, for the vessels which frequent this Strait are seldom one hundred tons in burthen. We proceeded next morning at an early hour. The Indians were already paddling across the bay in a northerly direction. Upon coming abreast of them, a thick smoke was perceived to rise suddenly from their canoes ; they had probably fed the fire, which they always carry in the middle of their canoe, with green boughs and leaves, for the purpose of attracting our attention, and inviting us to communicate with them. It was remarked that the country begins to be covered with trees at Cape Negro ; but they are stunted, compared with those at Freshwater Bay. Near this place, also, the coun- try assumes a more verdant aspect, becoming also higher, and more varied in appearance. In the neighbourhood of Rocky Point some conspicuous portions of land were noticed, which, from the regularity of their shape, and the quantity as _ well as size of the trees growing at the edges, bore the appearance of having been once cleared ground ; and our pilot Robinson (possessing a most inventive imagination) informed us that they were fields, formerly cleared and cultivated by the Spaniards, and that ruins of buildings had been lately dis- covered near them. For some time his story obtained credit, but it proved to be altogether void of foundation. These ap- parently cleared tracts were afterwards found to be occasioned by unusual poverty of soil, and by being overrun with thick Jan. 1827. ARRIVE AT PORT FAMINE. 95 spongy moss, the vivid green colour of which produces, from a distance, an appearance of most luxuriant pasture land. Sir John Narborough noticed, and thus describes them: ‘“ 'The wood shows in many places as if there were plantations: for there were several clear places in the woods, and grass growing like fenced fields in England, the woods being so even by the sides of it.”* The wind, after leaving Freshwater Bay, increased, with strong squalls from the S.W., at times blowing so hard as to lay the ship almost on her broadside. It was, however, so much in our favour, that we reached the entrance of Port Famine early, and after some little detention from baffling winds, which always render the approach to that bay somewhat difficult, the ships anchored in the harbour. - Narborough, p. 67. CHAPTER III. Prepare the Beagle, and our decked boat (the Hope) for surveying the Strait—Beagle sails westward, and the Hope towards the south-east— Sarmiento’s voyage—and description of the colony formed by him at Port Famine—Steamer-duck—Large trees—Parroquets—Mount Tarn —Barometrical observations — Geological character — Report of the Hope’s cruize. Iw almost every account published of the Strait of Magal- haens, so much notice has been taken of Port Famine, that I had long considered it a suitable place for our purposes ; and upon examination I found it offered so many advantages, that T did not hesitate to make it our head-quarters. As soon, there- fore, as the ship was moored, tents were pitched, our decked- boat was hoisted out and hauled on shore, to be coppered and equipped for the survey ;—and Captain Stokes received orders to prepare the Beagle for examining the western part of the Strait; previous to which she required to be partially refitted, and supplied with fuel and water. For several days after our arrival, we had much rain and strong south-westerly wind, with thick clouds, which con- cealed the high land to the southward ; allowing us only now and then a partial glimpse. One evening (11th) the air was unusually clear, and many of the mountains in that direction were distinctly defined. We had assembled to take leave of our friends in the Beagle, and were watching the gradual appear- ance of snow-capped mountains which had previously been con- cealed, when, bursting upon our view, as if by magic, a lofty mountain appeared towering among them ; whose snowy mantle, strongly contrasted with the dark and threatening aspect of the sky, much enhanced the grandeur of the scene. This mountain was the “Snowy Volcano” (Volcan Nevado) of Sarmiento, with whose striking appearance that celebrated navigator seems to have been particularly impressed, so minute [9 DISTANT VIEW OF MY SARMIENTO. Published by Henry Colburn’ Great Marlborough Street.163 8 oan, 1827. MOUNT SARMIENTO. Oi and excellent is his description. It is also mentioned in the account of Cordova’s voyage.* The peculiar shape of its summit as seen from the north would suggest the probability of its being a volcano, but we never observed any indication of its activity. Its volcanic form is perhaps accidental, for, seen from the westward, its summit no longer resembles a crater. From the geological character of the surrounding rocks its for- mation would seem to be of slate. It is in a range of mountains rising generally two or three thousand feet above the sea; but at the N.E. end of the range are some, at least four thousand feet high. The height of the “Snowy Volcano,” or as we have called it, Mount Sarmiento,+ was found, by trigonometrical measure- ment, to be six thousand eight hundred feett above the level * Ultimo Viage, p. 120. + From an attentive perusal of the voyage of Magalhaens, I have lately been led to think that this is the mountain which Magalhaens called Roldan’s Bell. Sarmiento has, however, assigned that name to a moun- tain at the back of his Bay of Campana, which will be noticed in it’s proper place. The name of Mount Sarmiento was too long, and too well established with us, or I should have restored the name bestowed upon it by Magalhaens. Herrera, in his Descripcion de las Indias Occidentales, cap.xxili, notices the “Campana de Roldan” as a great mountain in the midst of the entrance of a channel; they gave it this name (Cam- pana de Roldan) because one of Magalhaens’s companions, named Roldan, an artillery officer, went toexamine it. ‘ Y la Campana de Roldan una Pefia grande en medio al principio de un canal: dieron le este nombre porque la fué a reconocer uno de los companeros de Magallanes llamado Roldan que era artillero.”’ t By angular measurement, with a theodolite, from the tent, the base being by diff. of lat. 297,863 feet, and allow- ing +, of the intercepted arc for terrestrial refraction .. 6,864 feet. By angular measure with sextant (index error, dip, and 4, of the intercepted are being allowed) the base being UMM AMUCE ELL cle ofotctsinn ssa/Aie \oisi'sls sicl's,o/a:selevale sateterags ahaa L2o By angular measurement, with a theodolite, from Warp Bay, by Lieuts. Skyring and Graves ........ ee aivileiele s 6,300 Meat... s/s 6,967 feet, but as the last observation, from the angle of elevation being greater, was more likely to be correct, 6,800 feet is considered to be its clevation. 28 BEAGLE AND HOPE SAIL. Jan. 1827. of the sea. It is the highest. land that I have seen in Tierra del Fuego; and to us, indeed, it was an object of considerable interest, because its appearance and. disappearance were seldom failing weather guides. In our Meteorological Diary, a column was ruled for the msertion of its appearances.* This clear state of the atmosphere was followed by a heavy fall of rain, with northerly and easterly winds, which did not, however, last long. In the vicinity of our tents erected on the low land, on the S.W. side of the bay, were several ponds of water, perfectly fit _ for immediate use ; but, perhaps, too much impregnated. with vegetable matter to keep good for any length of time. Captain Stokes, therefore, filled his tanks from the river; but as that water did not keep well, it was probably taken into the boat too near the sea. ‘This, however, was unavoidable, except by risking the boats among a great number of sunken trees in the bed of the river. The Beagle sailed on the 15th, to survey the western entrance of the Strait, with orders to return to Port Famine by the end of March. Our decked boat, the Hope, being ready, the command of her was given to Mr. Wickham, who was in every way qua- lified for the trust. We were, however, much mortified by finding that she leaked so considerably as to oblige us to unload, and again haul her on shore. When ready for sea, she sailed under the direction of my assistant-surveyor, Mr. Graves, to examine the St. Sebastian channel and the deep opening to the S.E. of Cape Valentyn. Her crew con- sisted of seven men, besides Mr. Wickham, and Mr. Rowlett, the purser. Having despatched the Beagle and the Hope, I was at leisure to carry on the survey of the coast in the neighbourhood of Port Famine, and to make a plan of the port itself. ‘The * At a subsequent visit, embracing a period of 190 days, it was only seen on twenty-five, and during seven days only was it constantly visible. On the remaining eighteen, portions only were seen, and those but for a few hours at a time. 1583. SARMIENTO’S EXPEDITION. 99 Transit, and Altitude circle, were set up; but from the very unfavourable state of the weather, and the interference of other occupations, I was only enabled to procure a series of zenith distances of the sun, and stars, for the latitude. Port Famine, a name well known to all who have interested themselves about the Strait of Magalhaens, was selected by Sarmiento as the most convenient place for the site of an establishment formed, at his suggestion, by Philip II. King of Spain. The voyage of Sir Francis Drake through the Strait into the Pacific, and his successes against the Spanish colonies and trade on the western side of the continent of America, induced ' the Viceroy of Lima to send an Expedition to pursue the “ Cor- sair,” with orders to fight and take him, dead or alive.* "This Expedition, commanded by Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa, who had already been engaged twice with Drake, consisted of two ships, containing in all two hundred armed men, sailors and soldiers; a force which was considered sufficient to ensure the capturet.. The Strait of Magalhaens being the most likely place te meet with Drake, Sarmiento was ordered to proceed through it, and take the opportunity of exploring its coasts. All this he performed in a manner highly creditable, as well for the excellent description handed down in his unpretending journal, as for the enterprising zeal, and steady perseverance, shown among difficulties of no trifling nature. To his accounts of various places there will be frequent occasion to refer. Our object, at present, is to give a short account of the Colony. Sarmiento sailed from Peru (1583), and entered the Strait from the Pacific. After experiencing many serious difficulties, and escaping imminent dangers, in the western part of the Strait, where the climate is so rigorous and the country so deso- late, it was not surprising that he should become enraptured with the verdant, and picturesque appearance of the shores to the eastward of Cape Froward, and with the open country in * Sarmiento’s Voyage, p. 25... + /Tamsce 30 SARMIENTO’S COLONY. 1584. the neighbourhood, and to the northward of Cape Virgins.* After much opposition from the Dukeof Alva+ and other power- ful people, he succeeded in convincing the King of the expedi- ency of fortifying the shores of the First Narrow, and forming several establishments within the Strait, to prevent the passage of strange ships, to the prejudice of the King’s colonies in Chile and Peru ; for at that time the passage round Cape Horn was not known. Accordingly, an Expedition was prepared, con- sisting of twenty-three vessels, under the jot command of Diego Florez de Valdez and Sarmiento; the former being appointed Captain-general of the fleet, and of the coast of Brazil ; and the latter, Captain-general of the Strait of Magal- haens, and Governor of all the Establishments that should be formed within it. Of the twenty-three ships which sailed from Spain, five only reached the entrance of the Strait ; and these, after experienc- ing many difficulties from bad weather and foul winds, returned to Rio de Janeiro to refit, where Sarmiento met four vessels which had been sent from Spain to his succour. His colleague and General in chief, Florez, who had deserted the Expedition, did all in his power to impede Sarmiento, to the latest moment of his stay at the Brazils. At last, however, five ships, com- manded by Ribera, and manned by five hundred and thirty men,{ sailed ; and, without encountering further loss or deten- tion, arrived off the Strait in December (1584), and soon after reached an anchorage, between the First and Second Narrows. Ribera would go no further ; but landed about three hun- dred men, under Sarmiento. A city was marked out, and named Jesus,§ in a valley well provided with water. The * See Burney, ii. p. 45, for a fuller account; also id. 7]. + Who made a remark on the occasion, which became proverbial, “that if a ship carried out only anchors and cables, sufficient for her security against the storms in that part of the world, she would go well laden.” Burney Coll. vol. ii. 45. + Burney, ii. 51. § The situation of “Jesus”? must have been about half-way between the First and Second Narrow, near the point named in the chart N.S. de Valle, 1585. SARMIENTO’S COLONY. $1 ships were blown away to sea, leaving the colonists very desti- tute; fortunately, however, they were enabled to return, but were four times, afterwards, obliged to put to sea, from stress of weather. On the last return, one of the ships, La Trinidad, was run on shore. The ardour of Ribera being damped by repeated misfortunes, he returned to Spain, without the know- ledge or consent of Sarmiento, leaving, for the use of the colony, only one ship, the Maria. While unloading the Trinidad, the Spaniards were attacked by Indians, whom they dispersed. Sarmiento, after making the necessary arrangements at Jesus, set out by land with one hundred men, to go to Point St. _ Anna,* the ship Maria being ordered to follow. On the journey, the sufferings of the party were very great, as well from the fatiguing nature of the march, as from their being harassed by the natives, with whom they had an engagement, in which one was killed, and ten men were wounded. A mutiny among his people then broke out, which was quelled by assistance from the ship. At last they reached their desti- nation, and founded, with the usual solemnities, the city of King Philip (or San Felipe). At the latter end of March, while preparing habitations, the winter set in so suddenly, that for fifteen days it did not cease to snow. Sarmiento, then, after quelling a mutiny which had broken out afresh among the soldiers, embarked with thirty men to visit the first encampment at Jesus, and to superintend the erection of forts in the Narrow; but upon reaching the anchorage, a gale of wind forced him to sea, and, lasting twenty days, obliged him (with his people blinded and frost-bitten) to bear up for Rio de Janeiro. Here his ship was stranded; upon which he chartered a vessel to convey flour to the Strait, and went himself to Per- nambuco, to procure large boats for carrying supplies to his Valle, where some peaked elevations, dividing vallies near the coast line, are conspicuous. The Beagle anchored there, and found plenty of fresh water. * Close to Port Famine. 32 SARMIENTO'S COLONY. 1585. colony, and assisting in the recovery of his stranded ship ; she had, however, drifted off, and sunk near Bahia; and all his boats were destroyed. Still Sarmiento persevered in his zealous efforts to succour his friends in the Strait ; and succeeded in procuring a vessel of fifty or sixty tons, which, loaded with arms and whatever he considered useful, sailed, and reached Rio de Janeiro a month after the departure of the first vessel (January 1585). He followed, but in the latitude of 39° met with a furious gale, which drove him back to Rio de Janeiro, where the vessel that had preceded him had returned in distress. Disappointed in his attempts to carry succour to the colony, he determined to go to Spain; but on his voyage thither, to complete the catalogue of his misfortunes, his ship was captured by three English vessels, and taken to England, after which the ill-fated colony in the Strait was neglected, if not entirely forgotten. ‘'wo months after Sarmiento’s departure from the Strait of Magalhaens, in the month of August, the middle of the winter of that region, the party belonging to the first establishment at Jesus set off by land, and joined that at San Felipe, with the unwelcome tidings of their deserted state. But as the provi- sions at San Felipe were insufficient to support all the people, Andres de Viedma, who, after Sarmiento’s departure, had assumed the command, detached two hundred soldiers, under the command of Juan Iniguez, back to Jesus, for the purpose of communicating with any ship that might make her appear- ance, and awaiting the expected return of Sarmiento; but the winter and following summer passed by without any relief. In this unhappy state, the colonists were obliged to think only of providing for their safety, and built two boats; in which fifty people embarked, besides Viedma, Suarez, a Franciscan friar named Antonio, and five Spanish women. They had not proceeded farther than Point Santa Brigida,* * From Sarmiento’s description of the coast, Point Santa Brigida is the outward point of Nassau Island.(a) See Sarmiento’s Voyage, p. 220. (2) By Nassau Island is meant the land forming the south shore of the Second Narrow.—-R. F. 1587. SARMIENTO’S COLONY. 33 when one of the boats struck upon a reef, and was lost, but the people were saved. The loss of this boat caused them to give up every hope of saving themselves in that way ; and Viedma, with Suarez, the friar, and twenty soldiers, returned in the remaining boat to San Felipe, leaving the rest of the party, consisting of thirty men and five women, to support themselves through the approaching winter as they could. After that season had passed, Viedma sent to collect the wanderers ; but fifteen men, and three women only, could be found; the rest having died of hunger and disease. ‘The survivors then determined upon going to the first establishment at Jesus ; on their way to which they passed by the skeletons of the two hundred who had been first detached. Travelling onwards, they observed three ships entering the strait, which anchored at a distance to the southward. During the night, Viedma and his companions kept up large fires, supposing that the ships belonged to their own nation. Next morning a boat was despatched from them ; and three of Viedma’s party obtained permission to go and reconnoitre her. Having approached near enough, a signal was made; upon which, the people in the boat pulled to- wards the beach, and said they were from England, bound to Peru, and that if the Spaniards wanted a passage, they had better embark. After some hesitation, arising from the fear of trusting themselves in the power of heretics, they consented ; and one was permitted to get in, but the other two were left on the beach. In the boat was the enterprizing Cavendish* himself, who, on hearing the particulars of their. story, sent the other two soldiers to Viedma, offering to take him and the residue of his people on board. Cavendish returned to his ship; but, without further delay, sailed on to the Isla dos Patos (Santa Magdalena Island), where he leisurely salted down six casks of penguins; and then proceeded to San Felipe, for wood and water ; he remained there four days (during which time he destroyed the houses of the Spaniards, and embarked six guns); and thence continued his voyage. The person saved * Formerly spelled ‘ Candish.’ VOI. I. D 34 SARMIENTO’S COLONY. 1587. by Cavendish, whose name was ‘Tomé Hernandez, afterwards escaped from him at Quintero, near Valparaiso ; and, proceed- ing to Peru, gave an account of the fate of this cruelly neglected colony. This was the first, and perhaps will be the last, attempt made to occupy a country, offering no encouragement for a human being; a region, where the soil is swampy, cold, and unfit for cultivation, and whose climate is thoroughly cheerless. The name, San Felipe, ceased with the colony ; for Caven- dish called it Port Famine, in allusion to the fate of the colo- nists, all of whom, except the man he took away, and one saved two years afterwards (in 1589), by Andrew Mericke,* perished from hunger and its attendant diseases; and by this appellation the bay has since been universally known. 'To commemorate the ill-fated town, a very thickly-wooded mountain at the bot- tom of the bay, which forms a conspicuous and picturesque object, has been named by us Mount San Felipe. At this port, Sarmiento, on his first voyage through the Strait, communicated with a large party of Indians, in con- sequence of which he called it Bahia de la Gente; and the river, which now bears the name of Sedger, he named San Juan. Of this river Sarmiento took formal possession, as well as of the whole Strait, for the ‘ Mui Poderoso y mui Catolico Senor Phelipe Segundo,’ &c. &c. It was also here that, in con- sequence of the miraculous preservation of his vessel on many * “ Near to Port Famine they took on board a Spaniard, who was the only one then remaining alive of the garrison left in the Strait by Sarmiento. The account given by this man, as reported by Magoths, is, that he had lived in those parts six years, and was one of the four hun- dred men sent thither by the King of Spain in the year 1582, to fortify and inhabit there, to hinder the passage of all strangers that way into the South Sea. But that town (San Felipe) and the other Spanish colony being destroyed by famine, he said he had lived in a house, by himself, a long time, and relieved himself with his caliver()) until our coming thi- ther.” Burney, ii. p. 96. This man died on the voyage to Europe Id! p. 972) 0s (0) A kind of gun —R. F. Feb. 1827. STEAMER-DUCK. 35 occasions, he attempted to change the name of the strait to Estrecho de la Madre de Dios; but it had been too long called Magalhaens, for even the influence of Sarmiento, backed by the power of Philip, to persuade the world to countenance so great an injustice. “ Magallanes, Setior, fué el primer hombre Que abriendo este camino le dié nombre.” Ercilla Araucana, Cant. I. oct. 8. During an excursion with Mr. Tarn to Eagle Bay,* beyond Cape San Isidro, we found many wigwams. ‘They were then novelties to us, and we were ignorant of their bemg such cer- tain indications of very sheltered places, as subsequent expe- rience has shown them to be. We often used them, after they had been well cleaned out: a boat’s sail, thrown over the hemispherical roof, was a sufficient protection from rain ;—and from wind they are always well defended by their situation. Here we saw, for the first time, that most remarkable bird the Steamer-duck. Before steam-boats were in general use, this bird was denominated, from its swiftness in skimming over the surface of the water, the ‘race-horse,’ a name which occurs frequently in Cook’s, Byron’s, and other voyages. It is a gigantic duck, the largest I have met with. It has the lobated hind-toe, legs placed far backwards, and other characteristics of the oceanic ducks.+ The principal peculiarity of this bird is, the shortness and remarkably small size of the wings, which, not having sufficient power to raise the body, serve only to propel it. dices, rather than through the water, and are used like the Badles of a steam-vessel. Aided by these and its strong, broad-webbed feet, it moves with astonishing velocity. * So named by Bougainville. ¢ It belongs to the group which M. Temminck has lately named Hylobaies, without attending to the name long since conferred upon it by Dr. Fleming. I designated it Ozdemia Patachonica, from its large dimensions, in my communication upon the Ornithology of the Straits. Zoological Journal, vol. iv. p. 100. On my return to England, I found that M. de Freycinet had figured this bird, in the account of his last voyage in l’Uranie, where it is described by Messrs. Quoy and Coen under the name of Micropterus brachypterus. D2 36 ‘STEAMER-DUCK. Feb. 1827. it would not be an ex&ggeration to state its speed at from twelve to fifteen miles an fence The peculiar form of the wing, and the short rigid feathers which cover it, together with the power this bird possesses of remaining a considerable length of time under water, constitute it a striking link between the genera Anas and Aptenodytes. It has been noticed by many former navigators. 'The largest we found measured forty inches, from the extremity of the bill, to that of the tail, and weighed thirteen pounds; but Captain Cook mentions, in his second voyage, that the weight of one was twenty-nine pounds.* It is very difficult to kill them, on account of their wariness and thick coat of feathers, which is impenetrable by any thing smaller than swan shot. The flavour of their flesh is so strong and fishy, that at first we killed them solely for specimens. Five or six months, however, on salt provisions, taught many to think such food palatable, and the seamen never lost an opportunity of eating them. I have preferred these ducks to sait-beef, but more as a preventive against scurvy, than from liking their taste. I am averse to altering names, particularly in natural his- tory, without rely good reason, but in this case I do think the name of ‘steamer’ much more appropriate, and descriptive of the swift paddling motion of these birds, than that of ‘race- horse.’ I believe, too, the name of ‘steamer’ is now generally given to it by those who have visited these regions. Many shells were taken from the bottom by means of a fiz- gig which Mr. Tarn found in one of the wigwams: it was a * Cook’s Second Voyage, 4to. p. 570. ' + On the shores of Eagle Bay we procured a large collection of shells, among which were Margarita violacea (Nob. in Zool. Journ. v. 346, No. 53), a beautiful Modiola (M. trapesina, Lam.*), anew Pecten (P. vitreus Nob. in Zool. Jour. v.337, No. 17), and a delicate transparent-shelled Patella, answering the description of P. cymbularia. These four species were found attached to floating leaves of the kelp (Mucus giganiteus), and afford food to the steamer-duck. We also collected good specimens of Murex Magellanicus, Lam.*, of Fissurella picta, Lam.*, and a great number of the common patella of the Strait, which forms a considerable article of food for the Natives. Feb. 1827. SEDGER RIVER. . 37 rough pole, eight or ten feet long, split crosswise at one end, and opened so as to form four prongs, kept apart by two small pieces of wood. Although rudely made, it was excellently adapted for a shell-gatherer, and is used by the Indians for collecting sea-eggs, which are found in the Strait of very large size, and are doubtless, to them, a great delicacy. During our excursion we ascertained the best place to ascend the snowy mountain, since named ‘'Tarn;’ and the surgeon, whose name it bears, set off with a party of officers to make the attempt, in which he succeeded, and obtained such an extensive view as induced me to decide upon ascending it, a _ few days afterwards, to procure bearings from the summit, and for the purpose of measuring its height with a barometer. In the meantime I visited the Sedger river (Sarmiento’s ‘Rio de San Juan de Posesion’), and found some difficulty in entering it, because of several banks which are dry at low water. Between them, however, the stream keeps a small chan- nel open, by which we effected our purpose. Every gale of wind causes the banks to shift, and between the times of our first, and last, visit to Port Famine, the river’s mouth under- went many changes. The bed of the river is so full of fallen trees, that we could not go, with the boat, more than three miles and a half above the entrance ; there it was about fifteen yards wide, bounded on each side by thickly wooded banks, of moderate height. ‘The trees on these banks are large, chiefly the two species of Beech before-mentioned, and Winter’s-bark ; there are besides many shrubs, and an impenetrable underwood of Arbutus, Berberis, and currant bushes. The largest Beech- tree that we saw could not have been more than thirty or forty inches in diameter, which was insignificant compared with those noticed by Commodore Byron. In describing his excur- sion up this river, he mentions “ trees that would supply the British navy with the best masts in the world.’* “Some of them are of a great height, and more than eight fect in diame- ter, which is proportionably more than eight yards in circum- * Byron’s Voyage round the World, 4to. p. 38. iY 38 LARGE TREES—WOOD. Feb. 1827. ference.’* 'The Commodore may have been pleased by the appearance of these trees, but must have fancied their quality and dimensions such as he describes. ‘The largest are generally rotten at the heart, and all are more or less defective. ‘Their wood is heavy, and far too brittle for masts: we could not use it even for boat-hook staves. It makes, however, tolerable plank for boat-building, and, when seasoned, might be used in ships. For common purposes, such as houses, or fences, it is very serviceable. We wandered about to examine the country; but, except- ing the track of some quadruped, whose foot was small and cloven, rather like a pig’s, we saw nothing new. ‘The traces of foxes were numerous every where. We found no fish of any description in the river. Geese and wild ducks were’ numerous, whose young were at this time scarcely fledged, and an easy prey. We also observed here, for the first time, the parroquet, which Bougainville described to be common in the Strait. He carried specimens home with him; but some naturalists of those days decided that there must have been a mistake, because, as they averred, parroquets did not exist in so high a latitude. Bougainville, however, made no mistake, for the species} is very abundant in the neighbourhood of Port Famine, and has been seen by us in all parts of the Strait. It feeds principally upon the seeds of the Winter’s-bark. The existence of this bird in Tierra del Fuego is also mentioned by Cook and Narborough.* * Toc. + Psittacus smaragdinus, Gmel. I have no doubt that the bird we saw is the same as Bougainville procured, and from which a description has been given in the Ency. Méth., art. Ornith. 139; although a material error is made, for they are not splendidé viridis, nor is the wropygzum red ; in other points, however, the description is correct. See Buffon’s Hist. Nat. des Oiseaux, vi. 262. Pl. enl. n. 85, Perruche des Terres Magel- laniques, * Bougainville says, “we have likewise perceived some perrokeets : the latter are not afraid of the cold.” To which the English translator, T. R. Forster, who is incredulous of the correctness of Bougainville’s assertion, appends the following note : “ Perruches, probably sea-parrots, or Feb. 1827. PARROQUETS—FISH. 39 All accounts of Port Famine informed us of its abounding in fish, but as yet we had taken none excepting with hook and line, although the seine had been frequently shot. At last, however, in the first week of February, we had a successful haul of mullet and smelts, many of the former weighing eight pounds, and the latter measuring fifteen inches in length. After this we were often very fortunate, and on one occasion caught, at one haul of the seine, sixteen hundred-weight of smelts, some weighing two pounds, and measuring twenty inches in length. A few days previously we had a draught of mullet, which served the crews of both Adventure and Beagle for three days. Geese, wild ducks and teal, snipe, and now and then woodcocks, were to be found by taking a short walk ; there were, however, no quadrupeds fit for food which we could take. Foxes and wild cats were occasionally seen, and a foot-mark of some large animal of the feline race, probably a puma, was once observed upon the beach. We found many traces of horses, which showed that the Patagonian Indians sometimes come thus far south. Had we been so fortunate as to meet them here, we might have procured, perhaps, a regular supply of guanaco meat. On the 9th of February, as the weather seemed favourable for ascending Mount Tarn,* Lieutenant Cooke, the Surgeon, and Anderson, the botanical collector, set off in advance to select a convenient place for passing the night, carrying with them a tent and provisions. I followed later in the day, and, while the boat’s crew were arranging their loads, made some observations with a barometer on the beach. Our way led through thick underwood, and then, with a gradual ascent, among fallen trees, covered with so thick a coating of moss, that at every step we sunk up to the knees or auks.” Buffon also doubted the fact, and the author of Histoire Naturelle, art. Oiseaux, tom. ii. p. 322, suggests the possibility of a specimen having been obtained in some other part of the world, and put, by mistake, amongst those collected in the Strait. * So named because Mr. Tarn, the surgeon of the Adventure, was the first person who reached its summit. 40 - MOUNT TARN. Feb. 1827. before firm footing could be found. It was very laborious work, and the ground being saturated, and each tree dripping with moisture, we were soon wet through. We proceeded along the same sort of road up a steep ascent; some one of the party constantly falling ito deep holes covered by moss, or stumbling over fallen trunks of trees. As I carried a barometer I was obliged to proceed with caution, and succeeded in emerging from this jungle without accident. After about three quarters of an hour spent in this way, we reached an open space, where we rested, and I set up the barometer. Here we found a cypress of very stunted growth. Our road hence was rather more varied: always stéep, but sometimes free from impediment. Here and there we observed the boggy soil was faced with a small plant (Chamitis sp.) of a harsh character, growing so thick and-close as to form large tufts, over which we walked as on hard ground. We struggled through several thickets of stunted beech-trees, with a thick jungle of Berberis underneath, whose strong and sharp thorns penetrated our clothes at every step; and began to find the fatigue very oppressive: some of my boat’s crew suffered much, being unused to such exercise. At last we approached the place where Mr. Cooke and his party had established themseives, and upon hailing, were invigorated by a cheer in reply. We reached the bivouac in a very way-worn condition, and found, to our great comfort, the tent pitched, and a good fire burning.* The ground was so exceedingly wet, that although we slept upon branches, forming a layer at least a foot thick, we found ourselves, in the night, lying as if in a morass, and suffering from cold, even with a large fire blazing at our feet. At day- light next morning, just as we were starting, a boat was seen sailing round Cape San Isidro, which, by the aid of a telescope, I made out to be the Hope. We resumed the ascent, and passed over, rather than through, ‘thickets of the crumply-leaved beech, which, from * The height of this place, as shown by the barometer, on the ascent, was 941 feet, and, on the descent, 973 feet, Keb. 18277. BAROMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS. 4} their exposure to the prevailing winds, rose no higher than twelve or fourteen inches from the ground, with widely-spread- ing branches, so closely interwoven, as to form a platform that bore our weight in walking. We next traversed an extent of table-land,* much intersected by ponds of water. Mr. Tarn shot two plovers of a new species (Charadrius rubecola, Zool. Jour. vol. iv. p. 96), and a snipe. We then ascended three or four hundred feet, and crossed a deep ravine. The bottom of the ravine was clay-slate in a decomposing state, but the sur- face of the ground was strewed with pebbles of granite. Another plain, with many ponds, succeeded ; the intervening spaces being covered with tufts of chamitis, and studded here and there with small clusters of dwarf beech; but the ground was so hard, and firm, that we proceeded rapidly, without fatigue, until we attained the height of 1,800 feet, when the ascent became very steep. Near the summit lay a large mass of snow, rapidly melting away. We reached the highest pin- nacle of the mount at seven o’clock (having left our resting- place at four), and immediately set up the instruments. I was obliged to avail myself of Mr. Tarn’s assistance to hold the barometer, whilst two of my boat’s crew held the legs of the theodolite-stand, for the wind was blowing very strongly, and the edge of a precipice was close to us, perpendicular for many hundred feet, and thence downwards so steep, that any body going over would fall at least a thousand feet. The theodolite-stand was unavoidably placed within a very few inches of the edge, and I took a round of angles, suffer- ing, however, intense pain from the piercing coldness of the wind, which, heated as we were by the ascent, was much felt, though the temperature was not lower than 39°. I was lightly clothed, and should have fared badly, had not one of the party lent me his Flushing jacket, while he descended under the lee of the mountain-top to make a fire. The barometer stood at 26, 618, the temperature of the air being 40°, and of * On this table-land the barometer stood at 27,767. Temperature of the air 46°,5, and of the mercury 47°,5, which gave the elevation 1,327 feet. 42 BAROMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS. Feb. 182%. the mercury 43°.* Unfortunately the day was very cloudy, and many squalls of sleet and rain, which obscured the hills, passed whilst I was taking bearings. To the N.E., towards the supposed Sebastian Channel, the horizon was too hazy to allow much view. A deep inlet was seen in that direction ; but whether the land closed round, or whether a channel was at the bottom, we could not distinguish. A considerable body of water was observed to the southward of Cape St. Valentyn, behind Lomas Bay, but its extent was screened from our view by the intervention of the Lomas hills. It appeared to be a channel, the opposite or eastern side of it being formed by the high ranges previously seen from Point St. Mary. Cordova’s Ports San Antonio and Valdez were distinctly made out; but, to the southward, every thing was enveloped in mist. The bearings and observations, which occupied me nearly two hours, being completed, we all adjourned to a sheltered cleft in the rock close to our station, where we soon recovered the use of our fingers.-F * The result of the barometric observation for the height of Mount Tarn is as follows: 9 . Height by one barometer} le eas, pmean 2,596°5 feet. ascent 2,619°3 i Do. two do. descent 2,596°7 —e 2,608 0 2,602°2 By angular measurement from Observation Cove, Port Famine, with theodolite, allowing ,} of the intercepted are for terrestrial refraction, the height is 2,850 feet. Another observation, with the sextant, made it 2,855 feet. The mean 2,852 I consider more correct, from the difficulty of obtaining a correct reading of the barometer on the summit. + By Daniell’s hygrometer, used in this sheltered spot, I found the temperature of the air to be 48°; dew point 41°: but upon exposing the instrument to the wind, the air was 39}°, and the dew point 36°: the dif- ference in the former being 7°; and the latter 3}°; from which the fol- lowing results are obtained : weight of a cubic. air. dewpt. diff. exp. dryness. Eo ntior cake In the ravine 48 4] f 292 776 3°323 Exposed to wind 39} 36 34 248 898 2871 Difference 83 5 33 44 12207 (452 The Feb. 1827. GEOLOGICAL ‘NOTICES. 43 Having accomplished our object, we began the descent. In a comparatively mild and agreeable spot, I again set up the theodolite and barometer, while some of the party employed themselves in fruitless attempts to kindle a fire. ‘The height, by the barometer, proved to be 1,845 feet above the sea; and the bearings from this station were much better than those I had taken from the exposed summit. We reached our tent at noon, having been absent seven hours. At three we reached the beach, where the barometer stood at 29,312 (air 61.°3,* and mercury 62,°5). Excepting near the sea, where clay-slate (very similar to that of Point St. Anna, but with an opposite dip) showed itself, the side of the hill is clothed with trees and underwood, and no rock is visible until one arrives at the ravine. Around the summit of Mount Tarn the ground is bare, but so covered with small decomposed fragments, that the solid rock only appears occasionally ; it is very hard, and breaks with a conchoidal fracture : some of the specimens which we detached bore indis- tinct impressions of organic remains. We also found, project- ing from the rock in which they were embedded, nodules, or small rounded masses of stone, in an advanced state of decom- position, mouldering away in laminar forms somewhat resem- bling the inner leaves of a cabbage. Several were brought away carefully, but before we arrived on board they had crum- bled to pieces: the nucleus was quite hard, but was surrounded by concentric laminz, more brittle the nearer they approached to the outer surface. It seemed as if the face of the summit The above being the difference in the short space of three feet apart; the instrument, in the first case, being just under the lee of the rocky summit of the mountain, and in the last, above it, exposed to the wind. * The air was so dry this afternoon that I failed to procure a deposit of dew upon Daniell’s hygrometer, although the internal temperature was lowered from 61° to 37°. One of Jones’s portable hygrometers was also tried, and the temperature was lowered to 31°} without a deposit ; so that, the difference being more than thirty degrees, the expansive force of the air must have been less than 212, the dryness, on the thermometric scale, less than 367, and the weight of vapour, in a cubic foot of air, less than 2,355 grains, 44 HOPE’S CRUIZE. Feb. 182’7. above-mentioned was covered with the decomposing fragments of these nodules. The highest parts of the Mount form a ridge extending S. E. and N.W., being a succession of strata of slaty rock, dipping to the eastward, at. an angle of 15° or 20° from the horizon. 'The strata are very narrow, and separated from each other by a vein of quartz, much of which is in a crystallized state. We reached the ship about seven o'clock, and found that the Hope and her party had done well. Her cruize proved interesting, with regard to the geography of the Strait, and a summary of it is subjoined. Mr. Graves’s orders were to survey the Sebastian Channel ; but in the event of his seeing any thing more interesting to the S.E., he was allowed to defer that service to another oppor- tunity. ‘The Hope crossed the Strait, and anchored in a small bay, formed between the two projecting points of Cape Valen- tyn, where some few defects in the vessel were remedied, and a good round of angles obtained from the summit of the Cape, whence there was a fine view. The country was low, undu- lating, and destitute of trees. From a station about two miles overland, to the eastward, a large body of water was observed to the southward, forming a channel, or deep sound, and it was determined to follow up its examination, rather than risk the crew in the deep bay that was supposed to communicate with the San Sebastian Channel, on board a vessel whose capa- bilities were unknown. Several fire-places and remains of wigwams were seen; the latter were, however, very different, both in shape and material, from those at Port Famine, for the country being destitute of trees, they were built of driftwood, piled up in a conical form. Passing round Cape Valentyn, the Hope hauled to the south- ward, keeping the land on board. At night she anchored in Philip Gidley Cove, at the bottom of Willes Bay, where she was weather-bound until the 29th of January. The shores of Willes Bay are thickly clothed with wood, growing to the water's edge, except at the S.W. side. The great abundance of muscles and limpets attracts the Indians, whose wigwams Feb. 1827. FUEGIAN NATIVES. 45 were found standing, and from the green appearance of the branches with which they were formed, seemed to have been lately erected. After leaving Willes Bay, the Hope visited Fox Bay, and Sir Edward Owen’s Sound, which, it was thought, would lead into Lomas Bay, opposite to Port Famine ; but, after running ten miles up, they got into shoal water, and as there was no current, or stream of tide, they landed, and found that a mile and a half farther on, the sound was terminated by low land. Another day, while proceeding along the south side of Brenton Sound, the smoke of Indians’ fires was noticed near the beach. As this was the first time the Natives of this part had been seen, the course was shaped towards them, until the Hope anchored. ‘Three Indians then ap- proached, holding up the skins of some animal, and inviting them to land. The small boat was hoisted out, and Messrs. Wickham and Rowlett, with Robinson the pilot, went on shore. ‘The Fuegians presented a fox skin to each of the party, who in return gave them some trifles. After a short inter- view the boat left them, and no further communication was held that night. The following morning a canoe came off to the vessel, containing three young men, two women, and three children, the youngest not more than four months old. They were no sooner alongside than the men went on board, and commenced an active traffic with all the valuables they pos- sessed ; and for a few buttons, a glass bottle, or an empty pre- served-meat canister, many of their goods were bartered. They had several fox-skins with them, but no other kind of peltry, except their clothing, obtained from the seal or guanaco: and though many of them wore a penguin skin suspended from their girdle, some were without even that covering. This cance was followed by another, containing an old man, sixty or seventy years of age, with a grey beard; an elderly woman, and two children. Before they came alongside they put their dogs on shore. Although the visit from these Indians did not last very long, they had time enough to pilfer. One of the young men, who was seen going into a canoe, excited, by his manner, a suspi- 4G FURGIAN NATIVES. Feb. 1827. cion of his having stolen something, and a tin pot was found concealed under his mantle. As there was every probability of their soon separating, and Mr. Graves feared that punishment would cause a rupture, he only turned him out of the vessel : the rest soon followed him, and landed. Having made a fire, the men squatted round it; while the women were despatched to collect shell-fish. As soon as the Natives had finished their meal, they em- barked, and proceeded eastward. Next day they again visited the Hope, but in consequence, perhaps, of the occurrence the day before, did not venture alongside, until invited by the words, ‘ho-say, ho-say,’ which mean, ‘come, come.’ In a few minutes confidence was restored, and they began to barter. The trade was opened by one of the women making a peace- offering of a shell necklace, in return for which, red caps and medals were given to each of the women and children. The Hope went thence to Soapsuds Cove, where the crew washed their clothes, and replaced a broken spar. In a S.E. direction from this cove there appeared to be a considerable channel leading to the S.E., and to the south- ward was a deep sound, towards which they were proceeding the next morning ; but having advanced about two miles, the land of Cape Expectation trended suddenly round to the east- ward, and a long narrow channel presented itself, which seemed likely to communicate with the Strait, to the southward of Port San Antonio. They proceeded through this channel, which takes a very straight course, and gradually narrows from Port Waterfall, where it is two miles and a half wide, to Passage Cove, where it is scarcely three quarters of a mile; and there they anchored. Between Port Waterfall and Passage Cove, a party of Na- tives was seen; but, being probably the same who were met at Indian Cove, no attention was paid to their hallooigs and fires of invitation.* The Hope came into the Strait, east- ward of an opening then called Magdalen Sound ; her passage “ Fires made to attract attention, and invite strangers to land. Feb. 1827. SAN GABRIEL CHANNEL. 4 must therefore have been through Sarmiento’s ‘San Gabriel’ Channel. At night, when between Cape Froward and Port San Anto- nio, a heavy squall from S.W. carried the little vessel rapidly towards Cape San Isidro, and, at daylight the next morning, she was in the position observed by us, while ascending Mount Tarn. CHAPTER IV. Deer seen— Hope sails again—Eagle Bay—Gabriel Channel— Willi- waws ’’— Port Waterfall — Natives — Admiralty Sound — Gabriel Channel—Magdalen Channel—Hope returns to Port Famine—San Antonio—Lomas Bay—Loss of boat—Master and two seamen drowned. From Mr. Graves’s report of the appearance of the channel to the S.E. of Dawson Island, I decided to proceed there as soon as the Hope was ready, for she required some alteration, and repairs. A deer having been seen on Point St. Anna, Mr. Tarn landed, very early in the morning, eager for the prize, but could only get an ineffectual shot. At another time a few deer were seen by our party, near the river; but instead of return- ing with the information, they fired their guns, loaded with small shot only, which served but to scare them away. As the animal was new to us, and we had evidence of its being equally new to Science, I was anxious to procure a specimen, but never afterwards had an opportunity. Here Sarmiento saw the only deer which he mentions in his journal. The morning of the 16th seeming more favourable, I set out in the Hope. The heights were covered with snow which had fallen the preceding night, the thermometer had been at freezing point, and much ice had formed; but the appearance of the weather deceived us: we had scarcely left the ship, when it began to rain, and by the time we reached Cape San Isidro the wind had freshened to a gale, which obliged me to anchor in Eagle Bay. Having landed, a tent was pitched, and a blazing fire made to dry our clothes. In the evening the gale blew with great Feb. 1827. GABRIEL CHANNEL. 49 violence from S.W., and the Hope, at her anchor, sheered about by the squalls, was occasionally laid over so as to dip her gun- wale under water. The following day (17th), although the rain had ceased, the wind was still strong. ‘Towards evening it fell, and early on the 18th we left Eagle Bay with a fresh breeze from E.N.E., and passed close to Port San Antonio; but were then delayed by calms and squalls. At noon a westerly wind sprung up, and we proceeded down the Gabriel Channel, with the wind aft, and the tide in our favour. Port Waterfall sheltered us for the night. The apparently artificial formation of this channel 1s very striking. It seems to have been formerly a valley between two ridges of the range, in the direction of the strata (of which there are frequent instances, such as the valley in the Lomas Range, opposite Cape San Isidro, the valley of Valdez Bay, and one immediately to the north of the channel itself, besides many others), and that at some remote period the sea had forced its way through, effecting a communication between the Strait and the waters behind Dawson Island : as if one of those great ‘ northern waves,’ of which we once heard so much, had rolled down the wide reach of the Strait (the parallelism of whose shores is also remarkable) from the north-west, towards Cape Froward ; and finding itself opposed by the Lomas Range, had forced a passage through the valley until stopped by the mountains at Fitton Bay. Having imagined such a wave in motion, the reader may fancy it uniting with another northern roller from Cape San Valentyn, attacking the hills and carrying all before it, until Mount Hope, at the bottom of Admiralty Sound, arrested its course. I have already noticed the remarkably straight direction in which this curious channel trends. At both extremities the width may be from two to three miles ; but the shores gradually approach each other mid- way, and the coast on each side rises abruptly to the height of fifteen hundred feet. The south shore, sheltered from the pre- vailing and strongest winds, is thickly covered with trees and luxuriant underwood, which, being chiefly evergreen, improve VOL. I. E 50 WILLIWAWS. Feb. 1827. the scenery greatly, particularly in the winter season : the north shore is also well wooded for about two-thirds up; but the sum- mit is barren and the outline very much serrated, as is usual in slate formations. On the north shore we noticed some extraordinary effects of the whirlwinds which so frequently occur in Tierra del Fuego. The crews of sealing vessels call them ‘ williwaws,’ or ‘ hur- ricane-squalls,’ and they are most violent. The south-west gales, which blow upon the coast with extreme fury, are pent up and impeded in passing over the high lands; when, increasing in power, they rush violently over the edges of precipices, expand, as it were, and descending perpendicularly, destroy every thing moveable. The surface of the water, when struck by these gusts, is so agitated, as to be covered with foam, which is taken up by them, and flies before their fury until dispersed in vapour. Ships at anchor under high land are sometimes suddenly thrown over on their beam-ends, and the next moment recover their equilibrium, as if nothing had occurred. Again a squall strikes them, perhaps on the other side, and over they heel before its rage: the cable becomes strained, and checks the ship with a jerk, that causes her to start a-head through the water, until again stopped by the cable, or driven astern by another gust of wind. At all these anchorages, under high land, there are some parts more exposed than others; and by watching for those places which are least troubled by these squalls, a more secure, or rather a more quiet, spot may be selected. I do not consider ships so anchored to be in danger if their ground tackle be good; but every thing that offers a stiff resistance must suffer from the fury of these blasts. In many parts of this country trees are torn up by the roots, or rent asunder by the wind ; and in the Gabriel Channel the ‘ williwaws’ bursting over the mountainous ridge, which forms the south side of the | channel, descend, and striking against the base of the opposite shore, rush up the steep, and carry all before them. I know of nothing to which I can better compare the bared track left by one of these squalls than to a bad broad road. After Feb. 1827. PORT WATERFALL. 51 having made such an opening, the wind frequently sweeping through prevents the growth of vegetation. Confused masses of up-rooted trees lie at the lower ends of these bared tracks, and show plainly what power has been exerted. The southern shore of the channel is formed by the base of that range of hills, which extends, from the eastern side of the Magdalen Channel, towards the E.S.E. It is the highest part of ‘Tierra del Fuego, and on it are several remarkable moun- tains, besides Sarmiento, towering over all. Close to the east end of the Gabriel Channel is Mount Buck- land, a tall obelisk-like hill, terminating in a sharp needle- point, and lifting its head above a chaotic mass of ‘ reliquize diluvianze,’ covered with perpetual snow, by the melting of which an enormous glacier on the leeward, or north-eastern side, has been gradually formed. This icy domain is twelve or fourteen miles long, and extends from near the end of the chan-' nel to Port Waterfall, feeding, in the intermediate space, many magnificent cascades, which, for number andheight, are not perhaps to be exceeded in an equal space of any part of the world. Within an extent of nine or ten miles, there are upwards of a hundred and fifty waterfalls, dashing into the channel from a height of fifteen hundred, or two thousand feet. The course of many is concealed, at first, by intervening trees, and, when half-way down the descent, they burst upon the view, leaping, as it were, out of the wood. Some unite as they fall, and toge- ther are precipitated into the sea, in a cloud of foam; so varied, indeed, are the forms of these cascades, and so great their contrast with the dark foliage of the trees, which thickly cover the sides of the mountain, that it is impossible adequately to describe the scene. I have met with nothing exceeding the picturesque grandeur of this part of the Strait. There are several coves on the south shore, but opposite to them there is no shelter until you reach a deep bay in which are several islets ; and where, I think, there is a communication with Brenton Sound, but we did not enter it. Port Waterfall may easily be known by a large flat-topped bare rock, lying across the summit of the eastern head, and rE Q ow 52 PORT WATERFALL. Feb. 1827, by a magnificent cascade formed by the union of two tor- rents. | All the plants of the Strait grow here: a sweet-scented Cal- lixene (C. marginata, Lam.) filled the air with its odour ; and a beautiful flower we had not previously seen, was found by Mr. Graves: it was pendulous, tubular, about two inches long (Class. Hexand. Monog. Cal. 2. Pet. 3. pointed), and of a rich carnation colour. The trees are small and stunted ; they are of the usual species, Beech and Winter’s-bark. Here we first noticed a large fern,* having a stem two or three feet long, and five or six inches in diameter, very similar to the Zamia of New Hol- land. We saw very few birds, and no quadrupeds. Among the former was a king-fisher, which at the time was new to us; but it is distributed over a large tract of South America, and I have since seen a specimen said to have been shot at Rio de Janeiro. : , Fitton Harbour is a deep inlet, surrounded on all sides by precipitous land, rising to the height of three, or four thousand feet, and terminated by peaks, of most fantastic shape, covered with ice and snow. Between Fitton Harbour and Cape Rowlett are high moun- tains, two of which, more conspicuous than the rest, we called ‘ Mount Sherrard,’ and ‘ Curious Peak.’ Card Point proved to be clay-slate, and I think the pro- jection of Cape Rowlett, and the mountains, are also of this rock. While crossing over towards Cape Rowlett, (the south head of a deep sound, trending to the S.E., which it was my intention to examine), we were met by three canoes, containing, together, about twenty-four people, and ten or twelve dogs. Mr. Wick- ham recognised them to be the same party who had visited the Hope on her last cruize; the thief, however, was not amongst them, fearing probably he might be known. These natives conducted themselves very quietly, and, except one of the women, who wished to keep a tin-pot in which some * This fern we found at the island of Juan Fernandez also. “PORT FAMINE Locking Norttiiwards - wu’ Published by Mennry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street. 1808. Feb. 1827. NATIVES. 5 water had been given her, made no attempt to pilfer. One of the party, who seemed more than half an idiot, spit in my face; but as it was not apparently done angrily, and he was reproved by his companions, his uncourteous conduct was forgiven. If possessed of any furs, they had left them, perhaps con- cealed, near their wigwams: only a few arrows, a necklace of shells, and a fillet for the head, made of ostrich feathers, were obtained by barter. Their canoes were paddled by the women, occasionally helped by the men. One or two of the former were young, and well-featured, but the rest were hideous; and all were filthy and most disagreeable, from the quantity of seal- oil and blubber, with which they had covered their bodies. After we had obtained, by barter, all the articles they had to dispose of, I presented them with red caps and medals, of 'which they were very proud : the latter they requested might have a hole drilled through them, that they might be suspended by a string round their necks. Their astonishment was much excited, and they were pleased by hearing a watch tick; but I believe I had very nearly, though unintentionally, given great offence, by cutting off a lock of hair, from the head of one of the men. Assuming a grave look, he very carefully wrapped the hair up, and handed it to a woman in the canoe, who, as carefully, stowed it away in a basket, in which she kept her beads and paint: the man then turned round, requesting me, very seriously, to put away the scissors, and my compliance restored him to good-humour. The features of these people bore a great resemblance to those of the Patagonian Indians, but in person they were considerably shorter and smaller. The elderly people of both sexes had hideous figures; the children, however, and young men, were well-formed; particularly one of the boys, whom they called * Yal-la-ba, which, I believe, meant a youth, or a young warrior. The word ‘ Shérrdo’ was used to denote a canoe, or vessel. | They were ill-clothed, with mantles made of guanaco, or otter skins, but not so neatly as those of the Patagonians. 54 NATIVES, OR Feb. 1827. Their bodies were smeared over with a mixture of earth, char- coal, or red-ccre, and seal-oil ; which, combined with the filth of their persons, produced a most offensive smell. Some were partially painted with a white argillaceous earth; others were blackened with charcoal ; one of the men was daubed all over with a white pigment. Their hair was bound by a fillet of plaited twine, made perhaps with strips of bark, and a few of them had it turned up; but to none did it appear to be an object of attention, except one of the young women, who repeatedly combed and arranged her’s with the -well-toothed jaw of a porpoise. During a remarkably calm night, we were frequently startled by the loud blowing of whales, between us and the shore. We had noticed several of those monsters on the previous day, but had never heard them blow in so still a place, At dawn, a light air carried us towards some broken land to the S.E. of Cape Rowlett, between the eastern trend of which, and the projecting point of an island, we found a secure and land-locked harbour, with two entrances, one to the north and the other to the south of High Islet. ‘The south side of the port, which I called Port Cooke,* is a narrow strip of land, forming the head of a deep inlet or sound, called-+ Brook Harbour. It seemed to extend to the base of the high moun- tainous range, and to be separated only by a narrow isthmus from Fitton Harbour. We had scarcely been at anchor half an hour when the same party of Fuegians was seen arriving. The men hastened to us in their canoes, as soon as the women had landed, to cover or thatch the wigwams, which they found standing, and to light fires. We afterwards went ashore, and, sitting down near them, commenced a brisk trade for arrows, skins, necklaces, and other commodities. The furs which covered their backs they parted with, for a few beads, and went quite naked the whole evening. Among them was a young man, who appeared to be treated * After the lieutenant of the Adventure. + At Mr. Tarn’s request. Feb. 1827. FUEGIANS. 55 with some deference by the others ; he was one of the best-look- ing of the party ; and there was a good-natured smile on his countenance during our communication, while the rest fre- quently manifested displeasure, even about trifles. He was, at least, the master of one of the two families; his wigwam con- tained his wife, and two children, his, or his wife’s father, and mother, as well as the idiot, and his wife, who, from her ap- pearance, must have been a Patagonian, or else a woman of unusual size among these people. ‘The old woman was very inquisitive, and the man, in a long speech, described to her all the wonders I had shown him, applying to me, from time to time, to point out to her the articles he was trying to describe. Their dexterity with the sling is extraordinary ; and, I should think, when used as a weapon of offence, it must be very formidable. Upon asking the same man to show us its use, he picked up a pebble, about the size of a pigeon’s egg, and placed it in the sling; then intimating that he was going to strike a canoe, he turned his back to the mark, and threw the stone in an opposite direction, against the trunk of a tree, whence it rebounded over his head, and fell close to the canoe. I have seen them strike a cap, placed upon the stump of a tree, fifty or sixty yards off, with a stone from a sling. In using the bow and arrow, also, with which they kill birds, they are very dexterous. The spear is principally for striking por- poises and seals, but is also used in war; and from the nature of the barb, must be an efficient weapon. For close quarters, they use clubs, stones held in the hand, and short wooden daggers, pointed with very sharp-edged quartz, pitch-stone, or flint. The next morning, seeing us underweigh, they came along- side and tried to induce us to anchor again. ‘The young man, of whom I have spoken, was very importunate, and at last offered us his wife, as a bribe, who used all her fancied allure- ments to second his proposal. So highly did they esteem beads and buttons, that a few of each would have purchased the cance, the wife, and children, 56 ADMIRALTY SOUND. Feb 1827. their dogs, and all the furniture. Seeing us proceed to the southward, with the apparent intention of sailing down the inlet, they motioned to us to go to the north, repeatedly calling out ‘ Sherroo, sherroo,’ and pointing to the northward; which we thought intimated that there was no passage in the direction we were taking. At noon, I landed to observe the latitude, and take bearings down the Sound to the S.E., at the bottom of which was a hill, standing by itself, as it were,-in mid-channel. The view certainly excited hopes of its being a channel; and as we had begun to calculate upon reaching Nassau Bay in a few days, we named this hill, Mount Hope. The point on which we landed was at the foot of a high snow-capped hill, called by us Mount Seymour; whence, had not the Indians been near, I should have taken bearings. | We sailed south-eastward, close to the south shore, until the evening; when from the summit of some hills, about three hundred feet above the sea, we had a view down the Sound, which almost convinced us it would prove to be a channel. The rock at this place differed from any we had seen in the Strait. The mountains are high, and evidently of clay-slate ; but the point, near which we anchored, is a mass of hard, and very quartzose sand-stone, much resembling the old red sand- stone formation of Europe, and precisely like the rock of Goul- burn Island, on the north coast of New Holland.* The following morning (23d), we proceeded towards Mount Hope, while running down to which some squalls passed over, clouding the south shore, and as we passed Parry Harbour it bore so much the appearance of a channel, that we stood into it; but the clouds clearing away soon exposed the bottom to our view, where there seemed to be two arms or inlets. In the south-eastern arm, the shores were covered with thick ice (like the bottom of Ainsworth Harbour, to the west of Parry Harbour, where an immense glacier slopes down to the water’s edge). The south-west arm appeared to be well sheltered, and if it affords a moderate depth of water, would be an excellent harbour. * King’s ‘ Australia,’ vol. i. p. 70; also vol. ii. pp, 573, 582, and 613. Feb. 1827. ADMIRALTY SOUND. 57 After satisfying ourselves that there was no channel here, we bore up on our original course ; but, before long, found our- selves within two miles of the bottom of the Sound; which is shallow, and appears to receive two rivers. The great quantity of ice water, which mingles here with the sea, changed its colour to so pale a blue, that we thought ourselves in fresh water. Mount Hope proved to be an isolated mass of hills, lying like the rest N.W. and S.E., having low land to the southward, over which nothing was visible except one hill, thirty or forty miles distant, covered with snow, to which the rays of the sun gave the appearance of a sheet of gold. Finding ourselves embayed, we hastened out of the scrape, and, after beating for some hours, anchored in Parry Harbour. Our entrance into a little cove in Parry Harbour disturbed a quantity of ducks, steamers, shags, and geese. Their numbers showed that Indians had not lately visited it. Next day we reached Ainsworth Harbour, which is of the same character as Parry Harbour, and affords perfect security for small vessels: by dint of sweeping, we reached a secure anchorage in a cove at the south-east corner. The bottom of the port is formed, as I before said, by an immense glacier, from which, during the night, large masses broke off and fell into the sea with a loud crash,* thus explain- ing the nocturnal noises we had often heard at Port Famine, and which at the time were thought to arise from the eruption of voleanoes. Such were also, probably, the sounds heard by the Spanish officers during their exploration of the Straits, whilst in the port of Santa Monica, where they had taken refuge from a violent gale of wind.+ * At high tide the sea-water undermines, by thawing, large masses of ice, which, when the tide falls, want support, and, consequently, break off, bringing after them huge fragments of the glacier, and falling into the still basin with a noise like thunder. + “En los dias 24, y 25, oimos un ruido sordo, y de corta duracion, que, por el pronto, nos parecid trueno; pero habiendo reflexionado, nos inclinamos a creer que fué efecto de alguna explosion subterranea, formado 58 ADMIRALTY SOUND. Feb. 1827. ‘The harbour was full of fragments of ice, the succeeding morning, drifting into the Sound, where the sea-water, being at a higher temperature than the air, rapidly melted them. Since our departure from Port Waterfall, the weather had been mild, clear, and settled ; but as it wanted only three days of the change of the moon, at which period, as well as at the full, it always blew a gale, I wished to reach a place of security in the Gabriel Channel or Magdalen Sound. Near the islands of Ainsworth Harbour, three canoes passed us, steering across the Sound, each with a seal-skin fixed up in the bow for a sail; and we recognised in them the party left at Port Cooke, among whom was the Indian who had been detected in stealing a tin pot. They did not come along-side; but as we went by, pointed to the north, apparently urging us to go in that direction. We had noticed several wigwams at Parry and Ainsworth Harbours, which shows that they are much frequented by Indians, perhaps on their way to the open low country east of Mount Hope, where numerous herds of guanacoes may be found. Porpoises and seal were not scarce in this inlet, and in the entrance there were many whales. The presence of seal and whales made me think it probable there was a channel; but I believe every person with me was satisfied of its being a sound, terminating under Mount Hope. Since my later experience of the deceptive character of some passages in Tierra del Fuego (the Barbara Channel, for example), I have felt less certain that there may not be a communication with the low land, behind Mount Hope, round its northern base. ‘The improba- bility was, however, so great,—from the bottom of the sound formado en el seno de alguna de las montanas inmediatas, en que parece haber algunos minerales, y aun volcanes, que estan del todo 6 casi apagados, moviéndonos a hacer este juicio, el haberse encontrado, en la cima de una de ellas, porcion de materia compuesta de tierra y metal, que en su peso, color, y demas caracteres, tenia impreso el sello del fuego activo en que habia tomado aquel estado, pues era una perfecta imagén de las escorias del hierro que se ven en nuestras ferrerias.— Apendice al Viage de Cordova al Magallanes, p. 03. Feb. 1827. ADMIRALTY SOUND. 59 being shoal,—from the very slight tide-stream,—and from the information of the Natives; who evidently intended to tell us we could not get out to sea,—that we did not consider it worth while to make another examination. _ I have before observed that the strata of the slate rocks, in the Strait, dip to the S.K.; and I found that they dip similarly all the way to the bottom of this inlet, which I named Admiralty Sound. The north side, like that of the Gabriel Channel, is steep, without indentations, excepting where there is a break in the hills; but on the south shore there are many coves, and bights, the cause of which is shown in the accompanying imaginary section of the Gabriel Channel. ‘The same cause operates on the outline of the north shore of the reach of Cape Froward, westward as far as Cape Holland, where the rock assumes a still more primitive form. Its general character, however, is micaceous slate, with broad veins of quartz; the latter being particularly conspicuous at Port Gallant. The following slight sketch, intended to represent an ima- ginary section of such an opening as the Gabriel Channel, may also serve to give a general idea of many Fuegian ancho- rages ;—of deep water passages existing between the almost innumerable islands of Tierra del Fuego ;—and of the effects of those sudden, and violent gusts of wind,—so frequent and dangerous,—commonly called hurricane-squalls,* or williwaws. * No canvas could withstand some of these squalls, which carry spray, leaves, and dirt before them, in a dense cloud, reaching from the water to the height of a ship’s lower yards, or even lower mast-heads. Happily their duration is so short, that the cable of a vessel, at anchor, is scarcely strained to the utmost, before the furious blast is over. Persons who have been some time in Tierra del Fuego, but fortunate enough not to have experienced the extreme violence of such squalls, may incline to think their force exaggerated in this description : but it ought to be considered, jhat their utmost fury is only felt during unusually heavy gales, and in particular situations; so that a ship might pass through the Strait of Magalhaens many times, without encountering one such blast as has occasionally been witnessed there.—R.F. 60 GABRIEL CHANNEL. Feb. 1827. The rock, of course, decomposes equally on both sides ; but on that exposed to the south wind, it breaks off in flakes parallel to the direction of the strata, and therefore does not make the course of the beach more irregular; while on the other side it moulders away transversely to the direction of the dip, leaving holes, in which water lodges, and hastens decomposition by entering deeply into the interstices. Water, air, and frost decompose the rock, and form a soil, which, if not too much exposed to the wind, is soon occupied by vegetation. The rugged faces of the cliffs, on the southern shore, caused by the rock decomposing across the grain, collect sand and mud; and hence it happens that anchorages are frequently found on one side, whilst, on the other, the anchor will not hold, from the steepness of the ground; there beg nothing upon the smooth declivity to retam mud and sand before it gets to the bottom; which, in most cases known to me, lies far beyond the reach of the anchor. After a tedious and difficult passage through the Gabriel Channel, we anchored in a snug harbour within the entrance of Magdalen Channel, on the west side, under a peaked hill called by Sarmiento ‘ E] Vernal,—in our plan, the ‘ Sugar- loaf” The entrance is about a quarter of a mile wide; but after a few hundred yards the harbour opens, extending in for nearly a mile. It is of easy depth; seven fathoms in the entrance, and four, five, and six fathoms within; so that it is Feb. 1827. MAGDALEN CHANNEL. | 61 very convenient for a small vessel : to us, indeed, it was a most welcome discovery. The land rises, around this cove, to the height of two or three thousand feet. It is covered with Beech, and Winter’s-bark, and near the water is adorned with large groves of Fuchsia, Berberis, and the common shrubs of Port Famine, growing so thickly as to form an almost impenetrable jungle; but, notwithstanding the picturesque character of its scenery, the towering height of the hills, which exclude the sun’s rays for the whole day, during the greater portion of the year, renders it a gloomy and melancholy spot.* We found a family of Fuegians in the inner harbour. Three canoes were hauled up on the beach, but their owners were not at first visible. At last, after our repeatedly calling out ‘ Ho-say, ho-say,’ they appeared, and, rather reluctantly, invited us, by signs, to land. There seemed to be fourteen or fifteen people, and seven or eight dogs. Mr. Wickham and Mr. Tarn went on shore to these natives, who exhibited some timidity, until a hideous old woman began to chatter, and soon made them understand that the young men (La-a-pas) were absent on a hunting excursion, but were every moment ex- pected to return. There were only three men with the women and children. ‘To inspire them with confidence in our good intentions, Mr. Wickham gave each man a red cap, and some other trifles. One of them complained of being sick, but I rather imagine his illness was feigned, and the others did not at all seem to like our visit. By degrees their fears sub- sided, and, restraint being laid aside, an active trade began ; in which several otter skins, shell-necklaces, spears, and other trifles, were obtained from them in exchange for beads, buttons, medals, &c. The otters are caught by the help of dogs, on which account, principally, the latter are so valuable. These people were slightly clothed with skins of the seal and otter, but some had pieces of guanaco mantles over their shoulders, whence we supposed that they were either of the same tribe, or at peace, with the Indians of Admiralty Sound : * “sub rupe cavata Arboribus clausam circum atque horrentibus umbris.” 62 MAGDALEN CHANNEL. Feb. 1827. unless, indeed, they trade with the Patagonian Indians; but such is the poverty of the Fuegians, they can scarcely possess any thing of value sufficient to exchange with the goods of their northern neighbours, unless it be iron pyrites, which I think is not found in the open country inhabited by the Patagonian Indians, and, from the facility with which it yields sparks of fire, must be an object of importance. We were not a little amused by the surprise which these natives showed at the things in our possession, and by the effect produced in their countenances when they saw any thing extraordinary : the expression was not that of joy or surprise, but a sort of vacant, stupified, stare at each other. They must have been very suspicious of our intentions, or very much excited by what they had seen during the day, as throughout the night an incessant chattering of voices was heard on shore, Interrupted only by the barking of their dogs. Looking down the Magdalen Inlet, we saw two openings, which, while the hills were enveloped in mist, had the ap- pearance of being channels. We proceeded for some distance into the more westerly of the two, but found that it was merely a sound, terminated by high land. ‘The boat was then steered under a steep mass of black mountainous land,* the summit of which is divided into three peaks, which Sarmiento called ‘El Pan de Azucar de los Boquerones’ (the Sugar-loaf of the Openings). We ran southward, fifteen miles down this sound, and reached the Labyrinth Islands; but finding there no suitable anchorage, resumed our course towards the bottom of what we thought another sound, terminated by mountains. At noon, the furthest point, on the west shore, which we called Cape Turn, was within three miles of us, and we should soon have discovered the continuation of the channel (as it has since been proved) ; but a breeze set in from the $.W.., and in a short time it blew so strong as to oblige us to turn back. ¢ Williwaws’ and baffling eddy winds kept us seven hours under Mount Boqueron. These squalls were at first alarming, but by taking in all sail, before they passed, we sustained no injury. At sun- * Mount Boqueron. Feb. 1827. SAN ANTONIO—LOMAS BAY. 63 set we were abreast of Hope Harbour, in which we pur- posed taking shelter from the gale. Our late neighbours, the Indians, had lighted a fire at the entrance to invite our return ; but wind and tide were against us, and as we knew of no port to leeward, our only resource was to run out of the sound. Furious squalls carried us into the true, or steady, wind, which we found very strong; and as Port San Antonio was on the lee-bow, we had to carry such a press of sail, that our excellent boat had nearly half the lee side of her deck under water. By daylight we got into smooth water, and, with less wind and better weather, steered for Port Famine. The smoother water enabled us to light a fire and cook a meal, not an unimportant affair, as we had eaten nothing since six o’clock on the preceding morning, In our absence Mr. Graves had surveyed Lomas Bay, and, after his return, Mr. Ainsworth had crossed the Strait with the gig and cutter to survey Port San Antonio. They were victualled for five days; the gig was manned by my own boat’s crew, and the cutter by volunteers: but although they had not come back, we felt no anxiety about their safety, being assured that Mr. Ainsworth would not run the risk of crossing the Strait during bad weather. 'The tempestuous state of the two following days, however, made us uneasy, and on the third morning, when the wind moderated much, we looked out anxiously for their arrival. In the evening the cutter returned; but, alas! with the melancholy information of the loss of Mr. Ainsworth, and two seamen, drowned by the upsetting of the gig. One of the latter was my excellent coxswain, John Corkhill. The remain- der of the gig’s crew were only rescued from drowning by the strenuous exertions of those in the cutter. Mr. Ainsworth, anxious to return to the ship, thought too little of the difficulty and danger of crossing the Strait during unsettled weather. He set out from Port San Antonio under sail, and, while sheltered by the land, did very well; but as soon as they got into the offing, both wind and sea increased so much that the gig was in great danger, although under only a small close-reefed sail. 64 BOAT UPSET AND LOST. Feb. 1897. The people in the cutter were anxiously watching her labour- ing movements, when she disappeared! They hastened to the spot—saved three men; but the other two had gone down. Poor Ainsworth was still clinging to the gig’s gunwale when his shipmates eagerly approached ; but letting go his hold from extreme exhaustion, and being heavily clothed, he sunk from their sight to rise no more. He had been cheering the drowning crew, and trying to save his companions, till the moment his grasp relaxed. Just before Ainsworth himself let go, Mr. Hodgskin lost his hold, ex- claiming, ‘‘ Ainsworth, save me !” when, exhausted as he was, with one hand he rescued his friend, and, directly afterwards, his strength failing, sunk. This addition of three people to the already loaded cutter, made her cargo more than was safe, therefore Mr. Williams, who commanded her, very prudently bore up for the first con- venient landing-place, and happily succeeded in reaching the only part of the beach, between Lomas Bay and Cape Valentyn, where a boat could land. The following morning, the weather being more favourable, they crossed under sail to ‘Freshwater Bay, and thence pulled to Port Famine. This melancholy disaster was much felt by every one. Ains- worth was a deserving officer, and highly esteemed. Corkhill was captain of the forecastle, and had served in the Polar voyages under Sir Edward Parry. On the Sunday following, the colours were hoisted half-mast high, and the funeral service was read after morning prayers: for although to recover the bodies was impossible, their watery grave was before our eyes ; and the performance of this last sad duty was a melancholy satisfaction. “‘ Ours are the tears, tho’ few, sincerely shed, When ocean shrouds and sepulchres our dead.” A tablet was subsequently erected, on Point St. Anna, to record this fatal accident. CHAPTER V. Lieutenant Sholl arrives—Beagle returns—Loss of the Saxe Cobourg sealer—Captain Stokes goes to Fury Harbour to save her crew— Beagle’s proceedings—Bougainville’s memorial—Cordova’s memorial —Beagle’s danger—Difficulties—Captain Stokes’s boat-cruize—Pas- sages—Natives—Dangerous service—Western entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens—Hope’s cruize—Prepare to return to Monte Video. Tue Beagle’s time of absence had expired on the Ist of April, and our anxiety, more excited by our recent loss, was becoming painful. I detained the Hope from going upon a service for which she was prepared, in case she might be required to search for our consort: but on the 6th a strange whale-boat was descried pulling towards us from the southward, in which we soon distinguished Lieut. Sholl. His appearance, under such circumstances, of course raised fears for the Beagle’s safety ; but, on approaching, his gratifying shout, “all’s well !” at once removed anxiety. Mr. Sholl informed me, that the Beagle had picked up a boat, belonging to the schooner peace! of Saxe Cobourg,’ wrecked in Fury Harbour, at the south entrance of the Bar- bara Channel; and that she had put into Port Gallant, whence Captain Stokes had gone with the boats to assist the Sealers, leaving Lieut. Skyring on board. The safety of the Beagle being established, I despatched Mr. Graves, in the Hope, to examine some openings between the Magdalen Channel and the Dos Hermanos of Bougainville. Several days earlier than I expected, the Beagle made her appearance, and Captain Stokes soon gave me the agreeable intelligence of having succeeded in saving the Prince of Saxe Cobourg’s crew. Favoured by the weather, though delayed by his guide having forgotten the way, Captain Stokes reached Fury Harbour in two days, and embarked the master and VOL. I. F 66 BEAGLE RETURNS. April 1827. crew of the wrecked vessel, with all their personal property, and the greater part of the seal-skins which they had cured. He reached Port Gallant again on the fourth day; sailed immediately in the Beagle, and two days afterwards anchored in Port Famine. The Prince of Saxe Cobourg, belonging to Mr. Weddel (whose voyage towards the South Pole is so well known), and commanded by Mr. Matthew Brisbane, who accompanied Weddel on that occasion, sailed from England in the summer of 1826, on a sealing voyage. At South Shetland she encoun- tered a continuance of bad weather, was beset by a large body of ice for several days, and received so much damage as to oblige her to run for the Fuegian coast, and anchor in Fury Harbour, at the entrance of the Barbara Channel. There (December 16th, 1826) she was driven on shore by the furious strength of the williwaws, and wrecked. ‘The crew were, however, enabled to save most of the provisions and stores, as well as their three boats. Having made tents, and established themselves on shore, they remained in anxious expectation of the arrival of some vessel which might relieve them; day after day however passed, without succour. Two boats were despatched to look for any sealing vessel that might be in the vicinity, but after fifteen days’ absence they returned unsuccessful. In this iaterval one of the crew, who had long been sickly, died ; and another, in carelessly discharging a musket, exploded twenty pounds of gunpowder, by which he was very much burned. Three of the people being mutinous, were punished by being sent, each to a different island, with only a week’s provisions. Soon afterwards another boat was sent away, which reached Hope Harbour, but found no vessel there. Seven of the people © then obtained permission from the master (who kept up a very proper state of discipline), to take the largest whale-boat, and go towards the River Negro. Previous to their departure they drew up articles of agreement for their general conduct, a breach of which was tc be punished by the offender being left upon the coast, wherever they might happen to April 1827. SAXE COBOURG SCHOONER. 67 be. 'The boat eventually arrived safely at the place of her destination, and the crew entered as volunteers on board of the Buenos Ayrean squadron, at that time engaged in the war with Brazil. Again a boat was despatched, directed to go westward through the Strait in search of vessels. She had only reached as far as Playa’ Parda, when the Beagle fell in with her (March 3d, 1827). While passing through the small channels, before entering the Strait, she met several canoes, with Indians, who endeavoured to stop her, and shot arrows at the crew; but, happily, without doing any mischief. _ After the last boat’s departure, Mr. Brisbane began to build a small vessel, and, while so employed, was visited by a party of natives, who conducted themselves very peaceably, and went away. Their visit, however, gave the shipwrecked people, now much reduced in number,* reason to apprehend the return of a larger body, who might try to possess themselves of the property which was lying about on the shore ; they therefore buried a great deal, and tock means to preserve the rest by making preparations to repel attack. When Captain Stokes appeared with his two boats, the Sealers flew to their arms, calling out “ the Indians, the Indians !” but in a very few minutes excess of joy succeeded to their sudden alarm. Captain Stokes found the vessel lying on the rocks, bilged, and an utter wreck. ‘The master and crew were extremely anxious to get away, he therefore embarked them, with as much of the property as could be carried, and succeeded (after another night in the boats, and a long pull of eighty miles,) in conveying them safely to the Beagle. The following is an abstract of Captain Stokes’s journal of his cruise to the western entrance of the Strait. The Beagle sailed from Port Famine on the 15th of January, to explore the Strait westward of Cape Froward, and to fix particularly the positions of Cape Pillar, the rock called West- * Including the master, there were on board, when cast away, twenty- two persons, FQ 68 BEAGLE’S PROCEEDINGS. Jan. 1827. minster Hall, and the Islands of Direction, at the western entrance of the Strait. For the first night Captain Stokes anchored in San Nicclas Bay, and in the evening examined a harbour* behind Nassau Island, which Bougainville, in the year 1765, visited for the purpose of procuring wood for the French settlement at the Falkland Islands. On the second night, after a day nearly calm, the Beagle was anchored in a cove to the eastward of Cape Froward, and the next day (17th) passed round the Cape, carrying a heavy press of sail against a dead foul wind. Captain Stokes’s account of this day’s beat to windward will give the reader an idea of the sort of navigation. ‘“‘ Our little bay had screened us so completely from the wind, that though, when (at five a.m.) we weighed, the breeze was so light as scarcely to enable us, with all sail set, to clear its entrance; no sooner were we outside, than we were obliged to treble reef the topsails. We continued to beat to wind- ward under a heavy press of sail; our object being to double Cape Froward, and secure, if possible, an anchorage ere night- fall under Cape Holland, six leagues further to the westward. At first we made ¢ boards’ right across the Straits to within a third of a mile of each shore, gaining, however, but little. We then tried whether, by confining our tacks to either coast, we could discover a tide by which we might profit; and for that purpose [ began with the north shore, for though we were there more exposed to violent squalls which came down the valleys, I thought it advisable to avoid the indraught of various channels intersecting the Fuegian coast; but having made several boards without any perceptible advantage, we tried the south shore, with such success that I was induced to keep on that side during the remainder of the day. “* And here let me remark, that in consequence of the westerly winds which blow through the western parts of the Straits of Magalhaens, with almost the constancy (as regards * Bougainville Harbour, better known to Sealers by the name of ‘ Jack’s Harbour.’ Jan. 1827. BEAGLE—CAPE FROWARD. 69 direction, not force) of a trade-wind ; a current setting to the eastward, commonly at the rate of a knot and three quarters an hour, will be found in mid-channel. The tides exert scarcely any influence, except near either shore; and some- times appear to set, up one side of the Straits, and down the other: the weather tide is generally shown by a rippling. (c) “© Heavy squalls off Cape Froward repeatedly obliged us to clew all up. By day their approach is announced, in time for the necessary precautions, by their curling up and covering with foam the surface of the water, and driving the spray in clouds before them. _ © At last we doubled Cape Froward. This Cape (called by the Spaniards El Morro de Santa Agueda), the southern- most point of all America, is a bold promontory, composed of dark coloured slaty rock; its outer face is nearly perpen- dicular, and whether coming from the eastward or westward, it ‘makes’ as a high round-topped bluff hill (‘ Morro’). ‘“‘ Bougainville observes, that ‘ Cape Froward has always been much dreaded by navigators.’ Todouble it, and gain an anchorage under Cape Holland, certainly cost the Beagle as tough a sixteen hours’ beat as I have ever witnessed : we made thirty-one tacks, which, with the squalls, kept us constantly on the alert, and scarcely allowed the crew to have the ropes out of their hands throughout the day. But what there is to Inspire a navigator with ‘ dread’ I cannot tell, for the coast on both sides is perfectly clear, and a vessel may work from shore to shore.” From Cape Holland, the Beagle proceeded to Port Gallant, and during her stay there, Mr. Bowen ascended the Mountain de la Cruz. Upon the summit he found some remains of a glass bottle, and a roll of papers, which proved to be the memorials stated to have been left by Don Antonio de Cordova, (c) While the ‘current’ runs eastward for many days in mid-channel, or along one shore, it often happens that the ‘ stream of tide’ either sets in a contrary direction, along each side of the Strait, or that it follows only the shore opposite to that washed by the ‘ current.’—R. F. + “ Voyage autour du Monde.” 1767. "0 BOUGAINVILLE'S MEMORIAL. Jan. 1827. and a copy of a document that had previously been deposited there by M. de Bougainville. With these papers was found a Spanish two-rial piece of Carlos III., which had been bent to admit of its being put into the bottle. It was with consi- derable difficulty that any of the writing could be decyphered, for the papers, having been doubled up, were torn, and the words defaced at the foldings, and edges. Bougainville’s memorial was in Latin. Cordova’s, besides a document in Latin, was accompanied by an account of his voyage, written in four languages, Spanish, French, Italian, and English. The legible part of the former was as follows :— Viatori Benevolo salus........ seeeeee- que a periculose admodum naviga.....- RR eect Brasilie Bonarve et insularum......-.-6 -seeeeeeee incertis freti Magellanici portubus.. .. Pe ee? Cae Pe era historia astronomia.... ---- Boug ....Duclos et de la Giranda 2 nayium.. fete aE Primaris . Comerson....Doct med naturalista Regio accu....m. Veron astronomo de Romainville hidrographio seeeeeee. a rege Christianissimo demandans Bayete sate Fat iets Landais Lavan Fontaine navium Loco tenentibus et Vexillariis........ aes chasers itineris locus DD Dervi Lemoyne... ae el Mak beter Riouffe voluntariis. eeoeeeeneeeeee ee so vives eeesneeeev oe seriba Anno MDCCLXVI. The Latin inscription of Cordova was as follows :— Benevolo Navigatori Salutem Anno Domini MDCCLXXXVIII_ Vir celeberrimus DD Antonius de Cordova Laso de Vega navibus duabus (quarwm nomina SS Casilda et Eulalia erant ad scrutamen Magellanici freti subsequendum wndque littorum, portuum aliorumque notabilium _ siete stateless Scveleparn 6 e.... iter iterum fecit. - e Gadibus classis tertio nonas Octobris habenas immnutizst quarto idus ejusdem Nova ...-+- vidit Jan. 1827. CORDOVA’S MEMORIAL. 41 A Boreali ad Austra........ misertum postridie Kalende Novembris emigravit. Decimo quarto Kalendas Januarii Patagonicis recognitis litoribus ad ostium appulit freti. _ ‘Pandem ingentibus periculis et horroribus tam in mari quam in freto magnanime et constanter superatis et omnibus portubus atque navium fundamentis utriusque litoris correctissime cognitis ad hune portum Divini Jose vel Galante septimo idu Januarii pervenit ubi ad perpetuam rei memoriam in monte sanctissime crucis hoe monumentum reliquit. Tertio et excelso Carolo regnante potente Regali jussu facta fuere suo. Colocatum fuit nono Kalende Februarii Anno MDCCLXXXIX. together with a list of the officers of both vessels, and enclosing a memorial of Cordova’s former voyage in the Santa Maria de la Cabeza. The originals are placed in the British Museum ; but before we finally left the Strait, copies were made on vel- lum, and deposited on the same spot. The Beagle left Port Gallant* with a fair wind, which carried her to Swallow Harbour. The next stopping place was Marian’s Cove, a very snug anchorage on the north shore, a few miles beyond Playa Parda. Proceeding thence to the westward, with the wind ‘in their teeth,’ and such bad weather, that they could only see the land of either coast at intervals, and failmg in an attempt to find anchorage under Cape Upright, the Beagle was kept under weigh during a squally dark might. In that very place, Commodore Byron, with the Do!phin and Tamar, passed the anxious night, which he thus de- scribes :— ‘“‘ Our situation was now very alarming; the storm increased every minute, the weather was extremely thick, and the rain seemed to threaten another deluge; we had a long dark night before us, we were in a narrow channel, and surrounded on * One of the feathered tribe, which a naturalist would not expect to find here, a ‘ humming bird,’ was shot near the beach by a young mid- shipman.—Stokes MS. 12 BEAGLE’S DANGER. Jan. 1827. every side by rocks and breakers.”* The Beagle was under similar circumstances, but the land being known to be high and bold, her danger was not considered so imminent. Eastward of Cape Upright the water was smooth; but between it and Cape Providence a heavy breaking sea was caused by the deep swell of the Pacific. Captain Stokes found an anchorage the next night in a bay under Cape Tamar; and the following evening very nearly reached another under Cape Phillip ; but the darkness of a rainy night, and strong squalls, prevented their attempting to anchor in an unknown place, and the only resource was to bear up for shelter under Cape ‘Tamar, where the previous night had been passed. Even this was a dangerous attempt; they could hardly discern any part of the high land, and when before the wind could not avoid the ship’s going much too fast. While running about eight knots, a violent shock—a lift forward—heel over—and downward plunge—electrified every one ; but before they could look round, she was scudding along, as before, having fairly leaped over the rock. It was afterwards found that a great part of the gripe and false keel were knocked away. Captain Stokes’s account of this day’s beat will give an idea of the difficulties which the Beagle’s crew encountered, in working out of the Strait. January 3lst. “lhe hands were turned up at daylight “up anchor ;” but the heavy squalls that came off the high land of the harbour, rendered it too hazardous to weigh, until a temporary lull enabled us to make sail, and re-commence beating to the westward against a dead foul wind, much rain, hard squalls, and a turbulent cross sea. “The squalls became more frequent and more violent after noon; but they gave, in daylight, sufficient warning, being preceded by dark clouds gradually expanding upwards, until their upper line attained the altitude of about fifty degrees: then came heavy rain, and perhaps hail ; immediately after followed the squall in all its fury, and generally lasted fifteen or twenty minutes. * Hawkesworth’s Coll. of Voyages, vol. i. p, 76. Jan. 1827. NIFFICULTIES. 193 “In working to windward we frequently extended our ‘ boards’ to the south shore (not without risk considering the state of the weather), with the hope of making out Tuesday Bay, or some anchorage thereabout ; but the coast was covered with so thick a mist, that not a single point, mentioned by preceding navigators, could be recognised. «¢ About seven in the evening we were assailed by a squall, which burst upon the ship with fury far surpassing all that preceded it; had not sail been shortened in time, not a stick would have been left standing, or she must have capsized. As it was, the squall hove her so much over on her broadside, that the boat which was hanging at the starboard quarter was washed away. I then stood over to the north shore, to look for anchorage under the lee of a cape, about three leagues to the north-west of Cape Tamar. On closing it, the weather became so thick that at times we could scarcely see two ships’ lengths a-head. “These circumstances were not in favour of exploring unknown bays, and to think of passing such a night as was in prospect, under sail in the Straits, would have been a desperate risk ; 1 was obliged therefore to yield the hard-gained advan- tage of this day’s beat, and run for the anchorage whence we had started in the morning. ‘It was nearly dark ere we reached it; and in entering, desirous to keep well up to windward, in order to gain the best anchorage, I went too close to the outer islet, and the ship struck violently on a rocky ledge. However, she did not hang a moment, and was soon anchored in safety.” Finding so much danger and difficulty, in proceeding with the ship, without first knowing where to run for anchorages, Captain Stokes left her in Tamar Bay, under the charge of Lieutenant Skyring; and, accompanied by Mr. Flinn, set out in the cutter, with a week’s provisions, to examine the south coast. In a very arduous and dangerous cruize he discovered several well-sheltered anchorages, but experienced a ‘ constant heavy gale from W.N.W., with thick weather and incessant drench- ing rain.” (4 CAPTAIN STOKES’S BOAT-CRUIZE. Feb. 1827. Captain Stokes says, ‘* Our discomfort in an open boat was very great, since we were all constantly wet to the skin. In trying to double the various headlands, we were repeatedly obliged (after hours of ineffectual struggle against sea and wind) to desist from useless labour, and take refuge in the nearest cove which lay to leeward.” From the Harbour of Mercy, Captain Stokes attempted to cross the Strait, on his return to the Beagle; but the sea ran too high, and obliged him to defer his daring purpose until the weather was more favourable. During his absence, Lieutenant Skyring surveyed Tamar Bay and its vicinity. Again the Beagle weighed, and tried hard to make some progress to the westward, but was obliged a third time to return to Tamar Bay. After another delay she just reached Sholl Bay, under Cape Phillip, and remained there one day, to make a plan of the anchorage, and take observations to fix its position. The Beagle reached the Harbour of Mercy (Separation Harbour of Wallis and Carteret),* after a thirty days’ passage from Port Famine, on the 15th, having visited several ancho- rages on the south shore in her way. But tedious and haras- sing as her progress had been, the accounts of Byron, Wallis, Carteret, and Bougainville show that they found more difficulty, and took more time, in their passages from Port Famine to the western entrance of the Strait. Byron, in 1764, was forty-two days; Wallis, in 1766, eighty-two; Carteret, in the same year, eighty-four; and Bougainville, in 1768, forty days, in going that short distance. Five days were passed at this place, during which they com- municated with a few natives, of whom Captain Stokes remarks; ‘¢ As might be expected from the unkindly climate in which they dwell, the personal appearance of these Indians does not * It was here that Commodore Wallis and Captain Carteret separated, the Dolphin going round the world; the Swallow returning to England. Sarmiento’s name of Puerto de la Misericordia, or ‘ Harbour of Mercy,’ being of prior date, ought doubtless to be retained. Feb. 1827. PASSAGES—NATIVES. m5 exhibit, either in male or female, any indications of activity or strength. Their average height is five feet five ches; their habit of body is spare; the limbs are badly turned, and defi- cient in muscle; the hair of their head is black, straight, and coarse; their beards, whiskers, and eyebrows, naturally exceedingly scanty, are carefully plucked out; their forehead is low; the nose rather prominent, with dilated nostrils ; their eyes are dark, and of a moderate size; the mouth is large, and the under-lip thick; their teeth are small and regular, but of bad colour. They are of a dirty copper colour ; their countenance is dull, and devoid of expression. For protection against the rigours of these inclement regions, their clothing is miserably suited; being only the skin of a seal, or sea-otter, thrown over the shoulders, with the hairy side outward. ‘¢ The two upper corners of this skin are tied together across the breast with a strip of sinew or skin, and a similar thong secures it round the waist; the skirts are brought forward so as to be a partial covering. Their comb is a portion of the jaw of a porpoise, and they anoint their hair with seal or whale blubber ; for removing the beard and eyebrows they employ a very primitive kind of tweezers, namely, two muscle shells. They daub their bodies with a red earth, like the ruddle used in England for marking sheep. The women, and children, wear necklaces, formed of small shells, neatly attached by a plaiting of the fine fibres of seal’s intestines. “ The tracts they inhabit are altogether destitute of four- footed animals ; they have not domesticated the geese or ducks which abound here; of tillage they are utterly ignorant; and the only vegetable productions they eat are a few wild berries and a kind of sea-weed. ‘Their principal food consists of muscles, limpets, and sea-eggs, and, as often as possible, seal, sea-otter, porpoise, and whale: we often found in their deserted dwellings bones of these animals, which had under- gone the action of fire. ‘«* Former voyagers have noticed the avidity with which they swallowed the most offensive offal, such as decaying seal-skins, 716 FUEGIAN NATIVES. Feb. 1827. rancid seal, and whale blubber, &c. When on board my ship, they ate or drank greedily whatever was offered to them, salt- beef, salt-pork, preserved meat, pudding, pea-soup, tea, coffee, wine, or brandy—nothing came amiss. One little instance, however, happened, which showed what they preferred. As they were going ashore, a lump of the tallow used for arming the lead was given to them, and received with particular delight. It was scrupulously divided, and placed in the little baskets which they form of rushes, to be reserved for eating last, as the richest treat. “To their dwellings have been given, in various books of voyages, the names of huts, wigwams, &c.; but, with reference to their structure, I think old Sir John Narborough’s term for them will convey the best idea to an English reader ; he calls them ‘ arbours.’ They are formed of about a couple of dozen branches, pointed at the larger ends, and stuck into the ground round a circular or elliptical space, about ten feet by six ; the upper ends are brought together, and secured by tyers of grass, over which is thrown a thatching of grass and seal-skins, a hole being left at the side as a door, and another at the top as a vent for the smoke. A fire is kept burning within, over which the natives are constantly cowering ; hence, when seen abroad, instead of appearing to be hardy savages, inured to wet and cold, you see wretched creatures shivering at every breeze. I never met people so sensible of cold as these Fuegian Indians. ‘“¢ The nature of their domestic ties we had no opportunity of discovering ; their manner towards their children is affec- tionate and caressing. I often witnessed the tenderness with which they tried to quiet the alarms our presence at first occasioned, and the pleasure which they showed when we bestowed upon the little ones any trifling trinkets. It appeared that they allow their children to possess property, and con- sult their little whims and wishes, with respect to its disposal ; for lying in a boat, alongside one of the canoes, bargaining for various articles, spears, arrows, baskets, &c., I took a fancy to a dog lying near one of the women, and offered a price for it; one of my seamen, supposing the bargain concluded, laid Feb. 1827. FUEGIAN NATIVES. ras hands on the dog, at which the woman set up a dismal yell ; so bidding him desist, I increased my offers. She declined to part with it, but would give two others. At last, my offers became so considerable, that she called a little boy out of the thick jungle (into which he had fled at our approach), who was the owner of the dog. The goods were shown to him, and all his party urged him to sell it, but the little urchin would not consent. He offered to let me have his necklace, and what he received in exchange was put away in his own little basket. “‘ These people never evinced any thankfulness for our pre- sents. Whatever was offered they ‘ clutched at,’ doubtful of getting it, although held out to them ; and when in their own hand, it was instantly stowed away, as if they feared it would be recalled. “‘ I sometimes tried to discover whether they preferred any particular colour, and for that purpose held out three strings of beads, black, white, and red ; they clutched at all three, in their usual manner, without showing any preference. ‘« Their pronunciation is exceedingly harsh and guttural ; not more than two words, whose signification was at all ascer- tained, could be made out, ‘ sherroo,’ a ship, boat, or canoe, and ‘ peteet,” a child. They have a wonderful aptitude for imitating the sounds of strange languages: let a sentence, of even a dozen words, be distinctly pronounced, and they will repeat it with the utmost precision. “‘ Their only articles of traffic, besides such implements and weapons as they use, are seal and otter skins ; and I should say that the quantity of peltry to be procured from them would be insignificant towards completing the cargo of a sealing vessel.” During the next few days the Beagle was employed in the most exposed, the least known, and the most dangerous part of the Strait. Fortunately, she was favoured by weather, and effected her purpose without injury or loss; but I never reflect upon this piece of service without an inward tribute of admira- tion to the daring, skill, and seamanship of Captain Stokes, Lieutenant Skyring, and Mr. Flinn. 78 DANGEROUS SERVICE. Feb. 1827. In his journal Captain Stokes says: ‘‘ Incessant rain and thick clouds prevented my completing, until this day (19th), the observations necessary for making an island, just outside the Harbour of Mercy, the southern end of my base, for the trigonometrical connection of the coasts and islands near the western entrance of this weather-beaten Strait. “On the 20th, I weighed and beat to windward, intending to search for anchorage on the north shore, where I might land and fix the northern end of our base line. In the evening we anchored in an archipelago of islands, the real danger of whose vicinity was much increased to the eye by rocks, scattered in every direction, and high breakers, occasioned doubtless by reefs under water. We observed that most of the larger islands have small banks of sand at their eastern sides, on which ancho- rage may be found; but for ordinary purposes of navigation, this cluster of islands* need only be pointed out to be avoided. The number and contiguity of the rocks, below as well as above water, render it a most hazardous place for any square- rigged vessel : nothing but the particular duty on which I was ordered would have induced me to venture among them. Fore- and-aft vessels might work with far less risk; and as the rocks are frequented by vast numbers of fur seal, a season or two might be profitably passed here by a sealing vessel so rigged. ‘¢ This morning (21st) I landed on one of the larger islands, with Lieutenant Skyring, and having ascended an eminence (Observation Mount) with the necessary instruments, fixed its position, and made it the northern end of our base. ‘¢ It was a beautiful, and clear day; the Isles of Direction (or Evangelists), as well as every point of importance on the adjacent coast, were seen distinctly during several hours. ‘“¢ My next object was to fix the position of Cape Victory, and ascertain whether anchorage could be found in its neigh- bourhoed. Accordingly, we weighed early next morning (22d,) and after extricating ourselves from this labyrinth (not without much difficulty and danger), we beat to the westward. Violent squalls, a heavy sea, and thick weather, which came on about * Called the Scilly Isles. Feb. 1827. WESTERN ENTRANCE. — 19 noon, obliged me to choose the least evil, and run for the Har- bour of Mercy. “On the 23d, we went out again, and beat towards the Isles of Direction, off which we passed a night under sail. ‘‘'The morning of the 24th was very fine, and the wind moderate. Leaving the Beagle to sound about the Isles of Direction, I set out in my boat, with two days’ provisions, towards Cape Victory. As we rowed along these rocky shores, threading the mazes of the labyrinth of islets which fringe them, we saw vast numbers of black whales, and the rocks were quite covered with fur seal and brant geese. ‘¢ After pulling, in earnest, for six hours, we landed upon Cape Victory, the north-western limit of the Strait of Magal- haens, and there, with a sextant, artificial horizon, and chrono- meter, ascertained the position of this remarkable promontory. From an eminence, eight hundred feet above the sea, we had a commanding view of the adjacent coasts, as well as of the vast Pacific, which enabled us to rectify former material errors. Late in the evening we were fortunate enough to get safely on board again, which, considering the usual weather here and the heavy sea, was unexpected success. This night was passed under sail in the Pacific, and next morning we commenced our return to Port Famine. ‘¢ When within four or five miles of Cape Pillar, and to the westward of it, a current was found to set southward, at about two knots an hour. As we neared the Cape the wind fell, and the Beagle was set rapidly towards those dangerous rocks, called the Apostles. Fortunately, a commanding breeze sprung up, and we extricated ourselves from the difficulty. While passing Cape Pillar, I landed in a cove near it, and deter- mined its position. By sunset we had arrived near the Harbour of Mercy ; and being becalmed, towed the ship in, with her boats, until an anchor was dropped at the proper place. “On the 26th, we went to Tuesday Bay, and on the 27th crossed the Strait, and anchored under Cape Parker. I have rarely witnessed such a high, cross, and irregular sea as we this day passed through, near the strange mass of rock, called by 80 MAGALHAENS’ W. ENTRANCE. Feb, 1827. Narborough, ‘Westminster Hall.’ The coast about our unsafe anchorage was as barren and dismal-looking as any part of this country, which, as the old navigator above-mentioned said, is “so desolate land to behold.’ ‘Next day (March Ist) we ran down to Cape Upright, and there remained until the 3d, collecting the required data for our survey. “‘ While standing towards the bay called Playa Parda (on the 3d), a boat under sail was seen making towards us from the southern coast. I fired several guns, to show our position, before we became shut in by the land, and soon after anchor- ing a whale-boat came alongside, with the second mate and five men belonging to the sealing-vessel Prince of Saxe Cobourg. ‘¢ Anxious not to lose a moment in hastening to the relief of our shipwrecked countrymen, I ran down next day to Port Gallant, and thence proceeded with two ten-oared boats (on the 5th) through the Barbara Channel, and the following evening reached Fury Harbour.” Having already given a short account of the Saxe Cobourg’s loss, and the rescue of her crew by Captain Stokes, I will not repeat the story by extracting more from his journal. Mr. Graves returned from his cruize in the Hope on the 17th, after suffering much from stormy weather and incessant rain; but having made a survey of the openings in the land to the west of Magdalen Channel as far as the Sugar Loaf Point, at the west head of Lyell Sound, which he found to be deep inlets, affording no anchorages of value to navigation. The time having arrived for our return to Monte Video, preparations were made for sailing, and in the mean time I went to the northward, in the Hope, to survey the coast between Port Famine and Elizabeth Island, including Shoal Haven. At the bottom of Shoal Haven we were stopped by the water shoaling to five feet, so that we were obliged to haul out till we could anchor in more than two fathoms. During the night the wind shifted to N.E., and blew right in, obliging us to weigh, and work under the 8.W. end of Elizabeth Island into a bay close to that shore. From the summit of the S.W. April 1827. HOPE’S CRUIZE. 81 point I afterwards took angles, among which the most impor- tant gave Mount Sarmiento bearing S. 13° W. (true). Its distance must have been (by recent observations) ninety-four miles. Elizabeth Island is a long, low strip of land, lying parallel to the shores of the Strait, which here take a N.N.E. direction. Compared with the land to the southward it is very low, no part being more than two or three hundred feet high. It 1s composed of narrow ranges of hills, extending in ridges in the direction of its length, over which are strewed boulders of the various rocks, which have been noticed before as forming the shingle beaches of Point St. Mary and Point St. Anna; two -kinds of rock, greenstone and hornblende, being the most common. The vallies which divide the hilly ridges were well clothed with grass, and in many places were seen hollows, that had contained fresh water, but now were entirely dried up. These spots were marked by a white crust, apparently caused by the saline quality of the soil. Geese and wild ducks, and the red-bill (H@matopus), seem to be the only inhabitants of this island. - The Indians some- times visit it, for at the S.W. end we found remains of wig- wams and shell-fish. Perhaps it is a place whence they com- municate with the Patagonian natives, or they may in the season frequent it for eggs. We anchored in Laredo Bay, and visited a lake about a mile from the beach, distinguished on the chart by the name of Duck Lagoon: it is very extensive, and covered with large flights of gulls, ducks, and widgeons. We shot one widgeon, which was a most beautiful bird, and of a species we had not before seen.* Here the country begins to be clothed with the deciduous leaved Beech tree (Fagus Antarctica), which is stunted in growth, but very convenient for fuel. Though the hardiest tree of this region, it is never found of large size, the larger trees being the evergreen Beech (agus betuloides). We also met with several small plants common to Cape Gregory. One * «Anas Rafflesil,’ Zoo]. Journ., vol. iv., and Tab. Supp., xxix, VOL, 1. G 82 PREPARATIONS. April 1827. may consider Cape Negro to be the boundary of two countries, as entirely different from each other in geological structure and appearance, as they are in climate, to which last difference may be attributed the dissimilarity of their botanical productions. Hence we returned to Port Famine. In our absence, a boat from the Beagle had crossed the Strait to Lomas Bay, where a party of natives had kindled fires of invitation. The weather, since the sun crossed the equator, had been unusually fine; and, with the exception of one day’s heavy rain, the sky was so clear (the wind being moderate from the N.E.) that all the heights were exposed to our view, and amongst them Mount Sarmiento stood pre-eminent. Our preparations for sailing being nearly completed, the Hope was unrigged and hoisted in, and our temporary settle- ment on shore abandoned. It consisted of a marquée and a large bell tent. In the former was Mr. Harrison (mate), who had charge of the party, and of the meteorological instruments: the bell tent held the crew. Near them were the observatory, a sawpit, and a cooking place, where a cheerful fire was always blazing. The carpenter’s shop, cooper’s bench, and armourer’s forge had each its place, as well as a rope-walk, close to which our rigging was refitted, and the sails were repaired. After working-hours the shore party roamed about the woods with guns, or at low water picked up shell fish,* by which they usually procured a fresh meal twice, but always once, a week. Meanwhile the ship was kept carefully clean and in order. The officers not immediately employed in active duty made excursions with their guns; and although the immediate vicinity of our tents was pretty well thinned of game, yet a walk of a few miles was always rewarded by ample sport. When opportunities offered, some of the men were permitted to amuse themselves on shore with their guns, for which many had provided them- selves with powder and shot. Every Sunday, after divine service, which was performed as regularly as possible under our circumstances, such of the ship’s company as desired per- * Of these a species of mactra (M. edulis Nob.) was most abundant. April 1827. RETURN TO MONTE VIDEO. 83 mission to land obtained it. On one occasion, however, we had nearly suffered for this indulgence, which was conducive to the men’s health, and seldom abused: for one of them having made a fire at a little distance from the tents, the flames spread, and the exertions of all hands, for three hours, only just prevented it from communicating to the tents. On another occasion, two men set out on a shooting excursion, intending to cross the river Sedger, against doing which there had been no particular orders, as such a proceeding was scarcely contem- plated. Having reached the bank near its mouth, and searched for a fordable place unsuccessfully, they launched a log of wood, and sitting astride, without providing themselves with a pole or paddle, pushed off from the shore, supposing it would go across; but, on reaching the middle of the stream, it was soon carried, by the current, out of the river, into the bay. One man, Gilly, seeing that the log was still floating away with the ebb tide, plunged in, and just reached the shore south of the river, in a very exhausted state; the other, Rix, unable to swim, kept his place, and was carried out to sea on a voyage that might have been fatal, had he not been seen from the ship, and saved by a boat. Before leaving Port Famine we hauled one of our boats ashore, and left her (as we thought) securely hidden among the trees. Being now ready to sail, and only waiting for wind, the officers of both ships, twenty-seven in number, dined together on shore. CHAPTER VI. Trees—Leave Port Famine—Patagonians—Gregory Bay—Bysante— Maria—Falkner’s account of the Natives—Indians seen on the bor- ders of the Otway Water, in 1829 — Maria visits the Adventure— Religious Ceremony— Patagonian Encampment—Tomb of a Child— Women’s employment — Children — Gratitude of a Native—Size of Patagonians—Former accounts of their gigantic height—Character— Articles for barter—Fuegians living with Patagonians—Ships sail— Arrive at Monte Video and Rio de Janeiro. WuiteE detained by northerly winds, the carpenter and a party of people were employed in the woods selecting and cut- ting down trees to be ready for our next visit. After felling thirteen trees, from twenty-four to thirty-six inches in dia- meter, eight were found to be rotten at the heart; but by afterwards taking the precaution of boring the trees with an augur, while standing, much trouble was saved, and fifteen sound sticks of considerable diameter were cut down. We found one tree, an evergreen beech, too large for any of our saws: it measured twenty-one feet in girth at the base, and from the height of six feet to twenty it was seventeen feet in circumference ; above this height, three large arms (each from thirty to forty inches in diameter), branched off from the trunk. It is, perhaps, the very tree described by Byron in his account of this place. We only once saw it equalled in size, and that was by a prostrate trunk, very much decayed. In this interval of fine weather and northerly wind, we had the thermometer as high as 58°, and the barometer ranging between 29.80 and 30.00; but for two days before the wind shifted, the alteration was predicted by a gradual descent of the mercurial column, and a considerable increase of cold. On the 7th May, as there was some appearance of a change, we got under weigh; but were hardly outside the port, when a northerly wind again set in, and prevented our going farther than Fresh- May 1827. PATAGONIANS—GREGORY BAY. ; 85 water Bay, where we passed the night. At last, on the 8th, accompanied by the Beagle, we proceeded on our course with a strong south-westerly breeze, which carried us quickly up to Cape Negro, when it blew so hard that I anchored off Laredo Bay. At this anchorage we certainly felt the air much colder and sharper than at Port Famine, arising from our being in a more exposed situation, and from the approach of winter, as well as from the severe south-west gale which was blowing. After the gale had abated, we proceeded with fair weather and a light breeze to the Second Narrow, when the wind fell ; but the tide being in our favour, we passed rapidly through. — Ona hill near us we observed three or four Patagonian Indians standing together, and their horses feeding close to them. A fire was soon kindled, to attract our notice, to which signal we replied by showing our colours; and had we not already communicated with these people, we should certainly have thought them giants, for they “loomed very large” as they stood on the summit of the hill. This optical deception must doubtless have been caused by mirage: the haze has always been observed to be very great during fine weather and a hot day, arising from rapid evaporation of the moisture so abun- dantly deposited, on the surface of the ground, in all parts of the Strait. As soon as the Patagonians found they were noticed, they mounted and rode along the shore abreast of us, being joined by other parties, until the whole number could not have been less than forty. Several foals and dogs were with them. Having anchored in Gregory Bay, where I intended remaining for two days to communicate with them, I sent up a rocket, burnt a blue-light, and despatched Lieutenant Cooke on shore to ask for a large supply of guanaco meat, for which we would pay in knives and beads. The boat returned on board immediately, bringing off four natives, three men and ¢ Maria. ‘This rather remarkable woman must have been, judging by her appearance, about forty years old: she is said to have been born at Assuncion, in Paraguay, but I think the place of her birth was nearer Buenos Ayres. She spoke broken, but intel- 86 BYZANTE—MARIA. May 1827. ligible, Spanish, and stated herself to be sister of Bysante, the cacique of a tribe near the Santa Cruz River, who is an impor- tant personage, on account of his size (which Maria described to be immense), and his riches. In speaking of him, she said he was very rich ; he had many mantles, and also many hides (*‘ muy rico, tiene muchas mantas y tambien muchos cueros”). One of Maria’s companions, a brother of Bysante, was the tallest and largest man of this tribe; and though he only measured six feet in height, his body was large enough for a much taller man. He was in great affliction: his daughter had died only two days before our arrival; but, notwithstand- ing his sad story, which soon found him friends, it was not long before he became quite intoxicated, and began to sing and roar on the subject of his misfortunes, with a sound more like the bellowing of a bull than the voice of a human being. Upon applying to Maria, who was not quite so tipsy as her brother, to prevent him from making such hideous noises, she laughed and said, “‘ Oh, never mind, he’s drunk ; poor fellow, his daughter is dead” (Es boracho, povrecito, murié su hija) ; and then, assuming a serious tone, she looked towards the sky, and muttered in her own language a sort of prayer or invoca- tion to their chief demon, or ruling spirit, whom Pigafetta, the companion and historian of Magalhaens, called Setebos, which Admiral Burney supposes to have been the original of one of Shakspeare’s names in the “ Tempest”— it his art is of such power He would controul my dam’s god Setebos.”’ * Maria’s dress was similar to that of other females of the tribe; but she wore ear-rings, made of medals stamped with a figure of the Virgin Mary, which, with the brass-pin that secured her mantle across her breast, were given to her by one Lewis, who had passed by in an American sealing-vessel, and who, we understood from her, had made them ‘* Christians.” The Jesuit Falkner, who lived among them for many years, has written a long and, apparently, a very authentic account * Burney, 1. 35 and 37. May 1827. FALKNER’S ACCOUNT. 87 of the inhabitants of the countries south of the River Plata, and he describes those who inhabit the borders of the Strait and sea-coast to be, ‘‘ Yacana-cunnees, which signifies foot- people, for they have no horses in their country ; to the north they border on the Sehuau-cunnees, to the west on the Key- yus, or Key-yuhues, from whom they are divided by a ridge of mountains; to the east they are bounded by the ocean ; and to the south by the islands of 'Tierra del Fuego, or the South Sea. These Indians live near the sea on both sides of the Strait, and often make war with one another. They make use of light floats, like those of Childe, in order to pass the Straits, and are sometimes attacked by the Huilliches and other Tehuelhets, who carry them away for slaves, as they have nothing to lose but their liberty and their lives. They subsist chiefly on fish, which they catch either by diving, or striking them with their darts. They are very nimble afoot, and catch guanacoes and ostriches with their bowls. Their stature 1s much the same as that of the other Tehuelhets, rarely exceed- ing seven feet, and oftentimes not six feet. They are an inno- cent, harmless people.” * To the north of this race, Falkner describes ‘‘ the Sehuau- cunnees, the most southern Indians who travel on horseback ; Sehuau signifies in the Tehuel dialect a species of black rab- bit, about the size of a field rat; and as their country abounds in these animals, their name may be derived from thence : cunnee signifying ‘ people.’ ” With the exception of their mode of killing the guanaco by bowls, or balls, the description of the Key-yus would apply better to the Fuegian Indians; and if so, they have been driven across the Strait, and confined to the Fuegian shores by the Sehuau-cunnees, who must be no other than Maria’s tribe. The Key-yus, who are described to inhabit the northern shore of the Strait, between Peckett’s Harbour and Madre de Dios, are probably the tribe found about the south-western islands, and now called Alikhoolip; whilst the eastern Fuegians, or Yacana-cunnees, who have also been turned off the conti- * Falkner’s Patagonia, pp. 110, 111. 88 MARIA VISITS ADVENTURE. May 1827. nent by their powerful neighbours, are now called 'Tekeenikas. Our knowledge of the names of these two tribes, Alikhoolip and Tekeenika, results from Captain Fitz-Roy’s subsequent examination of the outer coast of Tierra del Fuego in the Beagle (1830). A Cacique, belonging to the nation of the Key-yus, told Falkner that he had been in a house made of wood, that travelled on the water. A party of the Indians, in four canoes, were met on the borders of the Otway Water by Captain Fitz-Roy in 1829, whose arms, implements, and every thing they had, were precisely like the Fuegian Indians, excepting that they had a quiver made from the skin of a deer, and were in form a superior race, being both stronger and stouter. For want of better information upon the subject, we must be content to separate the natives into Patagonians and Fue- gians. The sealing vessels’ crews distinguish them as Horse Indians, and Canoe Indians. These people have had considerable communication with the sealers who frequent this neighbourhood, bartering their guanaco skins and meat, their mantles, and furs, for beads, knives, brass ornaments, and other articles; but they are equally anxious to get sugar, flour, and, more than all, “ aqua ardiente,” or spirits. Upon the arrival of a boat from any vessel, Maria, with as many as she can persuade the boat’s crew to take, goes on board, and, if permitted, passes the night. As scon as our boat landed, Maria and her friends took their seats as if it had been sent purposely for them. Not expecting such a visit, I had given no order to the contrary, and the novelty of such companions overcame the scruples of the officer, who was sent on shore to communicate with them. Their noisy behaviour becoming disagreeable, they were soon conducted from below to the deck, where they passed the night. Maria slept with her head on the windlass ; and was so intoxicated, that the noise and concussion produced by veering eighty fathoms of cable round it did not awake her. The following morning, whilst I was at breakfast, she very uncere- moniously introduced herself, with one of her companions, and May 1827. MARIA’S VISIT AND CONDUCT. 89 seating herself at table, asked for tea and bread, and made a hearty meal. I took the precaution of having all the knives, and articles that I thought likely to be stolen, removed from the table; but neither then, nor at any time, did I detect Maria in trying to steal, although her companions never lost an opportunity of pilfering. After breakfast the Indians were landed, and as many of the officers as could be spared went on shore, and passed the whole day with the tribe, during which a very active trade was carried on. There were about one hundred and twenty Indians collected together, with horses and dogs. It is probable that, with the exception of five or six individuals left to take care of the encampment, and such as were absent on hunting excur- sions, the whole of the tribe was mustered on the beach, each family in a separate knot, with all their riches displayed to the best advantage for sale. I peeeepanied Maria to the shore. On landing, she con- ducted me to the place where her family were seated round their property. ‘They consisted of Manuel, her husband, and three children, the eldest being known by the appellation of Capitan Chico, or “little chief.” A skin being spread out for me to sit on, the family and the greater part of the tribe col- lected around. Maria then presented me with several mantles and skins, for which I gave in return a sword, remnants of red baize, knives, scissors, looking-glasses, and beads: of the latter I afterwards distributed bunches to all the children, a present which caused evident satisfaction to the mothers, many of whom also obtained a share. The receivers were selected by Maria, who directed me to the youngest children first, then to the elder ones, and lastly to the girls and women. It was curious and amusing, to witness the order with which this scene was conducted, and the remarkable patience of the chil- dren, who, with the greatest anxiety to possess their trinkets, neither opened their lips, nor held out a hand, until she pointed to them in succession. Having told Maria that I had more things to dispose of for guanaco meat she dismissed the tribe from around me, and, VOL. I SO RELIGIOUS CEREMONY. May 1827. saying she was going for meat (carne), mounted her horse, and rode off at a brisk pace. Upon her departure a most active trade commenced : at first, a mantle was purchased for a string of beads; but as the demand increased, so the Indians increased their price, till it rose to a knife, then to tobacco, then to asword, at last nothing would satisfy them but ‘ aqua ardiente,’ for which they asked repeatedly, saying ‘* bueno es boracho— bueno es—bueno es boracho ;”*—but I would not permit spirits to be brought on shore. At Maria’s return with a very small quantity of guanaco meat, her husband told her that I had been very inquisitive about a red baize bundle, which he told me contained ‘ Cristo,” upon which she said to me “‘ Quiere mirar mi Cristo” (do you wish to see my Christ), and then, upon my nodding assent, called around her a number of the tribe, who immediately obeyed her summons. Many of the women, however, remained to take care of their valuables. A ceremony then took place. Maria, who, by the lead she took in the proceedings, appeared to be high priestess{ as well as cacique of the tribe, began by pulverising some whitish earth in the hollow of her hand, and then taking a mouthful of water, spit from time to time upon it, until she had formed a sort of pigment, which she distri- buted to the rest, reserving only sufficient to mark her face, eyelids, arms, and hair with the figure of the cross. The manner in which this was done was peculiar. After rubbing the paint in her left hand smooth with the palm of the right, she scored marks across the paint, and again others at right angles, leaving the impression of as many crosses, which she * It is good to be drunk, it is pleasant to be drunk, + Two Portuguese seamen, however, who had resided some months with them, having been left behind by a sealing vessel, and taken off by us at a subsequent period of the voyage at their own request, informed us that Maria is not the leader of religious ceremonies. Each family possesses its own household god, a small wooden image, about three inches in length, the rough imitation of a man’s head and shoulders, which they consider as the representative of a superior being, aun ei to it all the good or evil that happens to them. May 1827. RELIGIOUS CEREMONY. 91 stamped upon different parts of her body, rubbing the paint, and marking the crosses afresh, after every stamp was made. The men, after having marked themselves in a similar man- ner (to do which some stripped to the waist and covered all their body with impressions), proceeded to do the same to the boys, who were not permitted to perform this part of the ceremony themselves. Manuel, Maria’s husband, who seemed to be her chief assistant on the occasion, then took from the folds of the sacred wrapper an awl, and with it pierced either the arms or ears of all the party ; each of whom presented in turn, pinched up between the finger and thumb, that portion of flesh which was to be perforated. The object evidently was to lose blood, and those from whom the blood flowed freely showed marks of satisfaction, while some whose wounds bled but little underwent the operation a second time. When Manuel had finished, he gave the awl to Maria, who pierced his arm, and then, with great solemnity and care, mut- termg and talking to herself in Spanish (not two words of which could I catch, although I knelt down close to her and listened with the greatest attention), she removed two or three wrappers, and exposed to our view a small figure, carved in wood, representing a dead person, stretched out. After ex- posing the image, to which all paid the greatest attention, and contemplating it for some moments in silence, Maria began to descant upon the virtues of her Christ, telling us it had a good heart (‘ buen corazon’), and that it was very fond of tobacco. “* Mucho quiere mi Cristo tabaco, da me mas,” (my Christ loves tobacco very much, give me some). Such an appeal, on such an occasion, I could not refuse ; and after agreeing with her in praise of the figure, I said I would send on board for some. Having gained her point, she began to talk to herself for some minutes, during which she looked up, after repeating the words “ muy bueno es mi Cristo, muy bueno corazon tiene,” and slowly and solemnly packed up the figure, deposit- ing it in the place whence it had been taken. This ceremony ended, the traffic, which had been suspended, recommenced with redoubled activity. 92 PATAGONIAN ENCAMPMENT. May 1827. According to my promise, [ sent on board for some tobacco, and my servant brought a larger quantity than I thought necessary for the occasion, which he injudiciously exposed to view. Maria, having seen the treasure, made up her mind to have the whole, and upon my selecting three or four pounds of it, and presenting them to her, looked very much disappointed, and grumbled forth her discontent: I taxed her with greedi- ness, and spoke rather sharply, which had a good effect, for she went away and returned with a guanaco mantle, which she presented to me. During this day’s barter we procured guanaco meat, sufli- cient for two days’ supply of all hands, for a few pounds of tobacco. It had been killed in the morning, and was brought on horseback cut up into large pieces, for each of which we had to bargain. Directly an animal is killed, it is skinned and cut up, or torn asunder, for the convenience of carrymng. ‘The operation is done in haste, and therefore the meat looks bad ; but it is well tasted, excellent food, and although never fat, yields abundance of gravy, which compensates for its leanness. It improves very much by keeping, and proved to be valuable and wholesome meat. Captain Stokes, and several of the officers, upon our first reaching the beach, had obtained horses, and rode to their ‘toldos,’ or principal encampment. On their return, I learned that, at a short distance from the dwellings, they had seen the tomb of the child who had lately died. As soon, therefore, as Maria returned, I procured a horse from her, and, accompa- nied by her husband and brother, the father of the deceased, and herself, visited these toldos, situated in a valley extending north and south between two ridges of hills, through which ran a stream, falling into the Strait within the Second Narrow, about a mile to the westward of Cape Gregory. We found eight or ten huts arranged in a row; the sides and backs were covered with skins, but the fronts, which faced _ the east, were open; even these, however, were very much screened from wind by the ridge of hills eastward of the plain. Near them the ground was rather bare, but a little May 1827. ‘ TOLDOS "—TOMB. 03 farther back there was a luxuriant growth of grass, affording rich and plentiful pasture for the horses, among which we observed several mares in foal, and colts feeding and frisking by the side of their dams: the scene was lively and pleasing, and, for the moment, reminded me of distant climes, and days gone by. The ‘toldos’ are all alike. In form they are rectangular, about ten or twelve feet long, ten deep, seven feet high in front, and six feet in the rear. The frame of the building is formed by poles stuck in the ground, having forked tops to hold cross pieces, on which are laid poles for rafters, to sup- port the covering, which is made of skins of animals sewn together so as to be almost impervious to rain or wind. The posts and rafters, which are not easily procured, are carried from place to place in all their travelling excursions. Having reached their bivouac, and marked out a place with due regard to shelter from the wind, they dig holes with an iron bar or piece of pointed hard wood, to receive the posts; and all the frame and cover being ready, it takes but a short time to erect a dwelling. Their goods and furniture are placed on horse- back under the charge of the females, who are mounted aloft upon them. The men carry nothing but the lasso and bolas, to be ready for the capture of animals, or for defence. Maria’s toldo was nearly in the middle, and next to it was her brother’s. All the huts seemed well stored with skins and provisions, the former being rolled up and placed at the back, and the latter suspended from the supporters of the roof; the greater part was in that state well known in South America by the name of charque (jerked beef); but this was princi- pally horse-flesh, which these people esteem superior to other food. The fresh meat was almost all guanaco. The only vessels they use for carrying water are bladders, and_ suffi- ciently disagreeable substitutes for drinking utensils they make: the Fuegian basket, although sometimes dirty, is less offensive. About two hundred yards from the village the tomb was erected, to which, while Maria was arranging her skins and 94 TOMB—WOMEN. May 1827. mantles for sale, the father of the deceased conducted me and a few other officers. It was a conical pile of dried twigs and branches of bushes, about ten feet high and twenty-five in circumference at the base, the whole bound round with thongs of hide, and the top covered with a piece of red cloth, ornamented with brass studs, and surmounted by two poles, bearing red flags and a string of bells, which, moved by the wind, kept up a continual tinkling. A ditch, about two fet wide and one foot deep, was dug round the tomb, except at the entrance, which had been filled up with bushes. In front of this entrance stood the stuffed skins of two horses, recently killed, each placed upon four poles for legs. ‘The horses’ heads were ornamented with brass studs, similar to those on the top of the tomb; and on the outer margin of the ditch were six 2 ae each carrying two flags, one over the other. . The father, who wept much when he visited the tomb, with the party of officers who first went with him, although now evidently distressed, entered into, what we sipipoll to be, a long account of the illness of his child, and explained to us that her death was caused by a bad cough. No watch was kept over the tomb; but it. was in sight of, and not very far from their toldos, so that the approach of any one could imme- diately be known. They evidently placed extreme confidence in us, and therefore it would have been as unjust as impolitic to attempt an examination of its contents, or to ascertain what had been done with the body. The Patagonian women are treated far more kindly by their husbands than the Fuegian; who are little better than slaves, subject to be beaten, and obliged to perform all the laborious offices of the family. ‘The Patagonian females sit at home, grinding paint, drying and stretching skins, making and paint- ing mantles. In travelling, however, they have the baggage and provisions in their charge, and, of course, their children. These women probably have employments of a more laborious nature than what we saw; but they cannot be compared with % “a OL GNW ,OGWNOL, NWINODW LW abised i j WRU eee *) mtd = May 1827. CHILDREN—GRATITUDE. 95 those of the Fuegians, who, excepting in the fight and chace, do every thing. They paddle the canoes, dive for shells and sea-egos, build their wigwams, and keep up the fire; and if they neglect any of these duties, or incur the displeasure of their husbands in any way, they are struck or kicked most severely. Byron, in his narrative of the loss of the Wager, describes the brutal conduct of one of these Indians, who actually killed his child for a most trifling offence. 'The Patagonians are devot- edly attached to their offspring. In infancy they are carried behind the saddle of the mother, within a sort of cradle, in which they are securely fixed. ‘The cradle is made of wicker- work, about four feet long and one foot wide, roofed over with twigs like the frame of a tilted waggon. ‘The child is swad- dled up in skins, with the fur inwards or outwards according to the weather. At night, or when it rains, the cradle is covered with a skin that effectually keeps out the cold or rain. Seeing one of these cradles near a woman, I began to make a sketch of it, upon which the mother called the father, who watched me most attentively, and held the cradle in the posi- tion which I considered most advantageous for my sketch. The completion of the drawing gave them both great pleasure, and during the afternoon the father reminded me repeatedly of having painted his child (“ pintado su hijo.”) One circumstance deserves to be noticed, as a proof of their good feeling towards us. It will be recollected that three Indians, of the party with whom we first communicated, accom- panied us as far as Cape Negro, where they landed. Upon our arrival on this occasion, I was met, on landing, by one of them, who asked for my son, to whom they had taken a great fancy ; upon my saying he was on board, the native presented me with a bunch of nine ostrich feathers, and then gave a similar pre- sent to every one in the boat. He still carried a large quantity under his arm, tied up in bunches, containing nine feathers in each ; and soon afterwards, when a boat from the Beagle landed with Captain Stokes and others, he went to meet them; but finding strangers, he withdrew without making them any present. 06 SIZE OF THE PATAGONIANS. May 1827. In the evening my son landed, when the same Indian came down to meet him, appeared delighted to see him, and pre- sented him with a bunch of feathers, of the same size as those which he had distributed in the morning. At this, our second visit, there were about fifty Patagonian men assembled, not one of whom looked more than fifty-five years of age. ‘They were generally between five feet ten and six feet in height : one man only exceeded six feet—whose dimensions, measured by Captain Stokes, were as follows :— ft, In; | ervey NaS Bie en sane aes 6 13 Round the chest.......... 4 I¢ Do. ROTC Ss Se hea 3 43 I had before remarked the disproportionate largeness of head, and length of body of these people, as compared with the diminutive size of their extremities; and, on this visit, my opinion was further confirmed, for such appeared to be the general character of the whole tribe ; and to this, perhaps, may be attributed the mistakes of some former navigators. Magal- haens, or rather Pigafetta, was the first who described the inhabitants of the southern extremity of America as giants. He met some at Port San Julian, of whom one is described to be “ so tall, that our heads scarcely came up to his waist, and his voice was like that of a bull.” Herrera,* however, gives a less extravagant account of them: he says, “ the least of the men was larger and taller than the stoutest man of Castile ;” and Maxim. Transylvaunus says they were “in height ten palms or spans; or seven feet six inches.” In Loyasa’s voyage (1526), Herrera mentions an interview with the natives, who came in two canoes, * the sides of which were formed of the ribs of whales.” ‘The people in them were of large size “ some called them giants ; but there 1s so little conformity between the accounts given concerning them, that I shall be silent on the subject.” As Loyasa’s voyage was undertaken immediately after the return of Magalhaens’ expedition, it is probable that, from the * Burney, i. p. 33. + Ibid, p. 135. FORMER ACCOUNTS OF PATAGONIANS. O97 impressions received from Pigafetta’s narrative, many thought the Indians whom they met must be giants, whilst others, not finding them so large as they expected, spoke more cautiously on the subject ; but the people seen by them must have been Fuegians, and not those whom we now recognise by the name of Patagonians. Sir Francis Drake’s fleet put into Port San Julian, where they found natives ‘of large stature ;? and the author of the ‘World Encompassed,’ in which the above voyage is detailed, speaking of their size and height, supposes the name given them to have been Pentagones, to denote a stature of “ five cubits, viz. seven feet and ahalf,” and remarks that it described the full height, if not somewhat more, of the tallest of them.* They spoke of the Indians whom they met within the Strait as small in stature. The next navigator who passed through the Strait was Sarmiento; whose narrative says little in proof of the very superior size of the Patagonians. He merely calls them ‘ Gente Grande,”{ and “ los Gigantes;” but this might have originated from the account of Magalhaens’ voyage. He particularises but one Indian, whom they made prisoner, and only says ‘¢ his limbs are of large size:” (“ Es crecido de miembros.”) This man was a native of the land near Cape Monmouth, and, therefore, a Fuegian. Sarmiento was afterwards in the neigh- bourhood of Gregory Bay, and had an encounter with the Indians, in which he and others were wounded ; but he does not speak of them as being unusually tall. After the establishment, called ‘ Jesus,’ was formed by Sarmiento, in the very spot where ‘ giants’ had been seen, no people of large stature are mentioned, in the account of the colony; but Tomé Hernandez, when examined before the Vice-Roy of Peru, stated, “that the Indians of the plains, who are giants, communicate with the natives of Tierra del Fuego, who are like them.§ Anthony Knyvet’s account || of Cavendish’s second voyage * Burney, i. 318. t Ibid, i. 324. } Sarmiento, p. 244. § Sarmicnto’s Appendix, xxix. || Purchas, iv. ch. 6 and 7. VOL. I. I \ 98 FORMER ACCOUNTS OF PATAGONIANS. (which is contained in Purchas), is not considered credible. He describes the Patagonians to be fifteen or sixteen spans in height ; and that of these cannibals, there came to them at one time above a thousand! The Indians at Port Famine, in the same narrative, are mentioned as a kind of strange cannibals, short of body, not above five or six spans high, very strong, and thick made.* The natives, who were so inhumanly murdered by Oliver Van Noort, on the Island of Santa Marta (near Elizabeth Island), were described to be nearly of the same stature as the common people in Holland, and were remarked to be broad and high-chested. Some captives were taken on board, and one, a boy, informed the crew that there was a tribe living farther in-land, named ‘ Tiremenen,’ and their territory ‘ Coin ;’ that they were “ great people, like giants, being from ten to twelve feet high, and that they came to make war against the other tribes, whom they reproached for being eaters of ostriches !”t Spilbergen (1615) says he “ saw a man of extraordinary stature, who kept on the higher grounds to observe the ships ; and on an island, near the entrance of the Strait, were found the dead bodies of two natives, wrapped in the skins of pen- guins, and very lightly covered with earth; one of them was of the common human stature, the other, the journal says, was two feet and a half longer.8 The gigantic appearance of the man on the hills may perhaps be explained by the optical deception we ourselves experienced. Le Maire and Schouten, whose accounts of the graves of the Patagonians agree precisely with what we noticed at Sea Bear Bay, of the body being laid on the ground covered with * Burney, ii. p. 106. + The tribes described by this boy are the 1. Kemenites, inhabiting a place called Karay. On Went kiasisc creweters epeiiis tere eke le ianes ste Karamay. Bi ACATALICE, Pte oun lp vatera co: voleraie te sir opleioveseice ee RO aes 4, Enoo, the tribe to which the Indians, whom they murdered, belonged. { Burney, 1i..215. § Ibid. ii. 334. FORMER ACCOUNTS OF PATAGONIANS. O9 a heap of stones, describe the skeletons as measuring ten or eleven feet in length, ‘the skulls of which we could put on our heads in the manner of helmets !” The Nodales did not see any people on the northern side of the Strait ; those with whom they communicated were natives of Tierra del Fuego, of whose form no particular notice is taken. Sir John Narborough saw Indians at Port San Julian, and describes them as “ people of a middling stature: well-shaped. * * *® Mr. Wood was taller than any of them.” He also had an interview with nineteen natives upon Elizabeth Island, but they were Fuegians. In the year 1741, Patagonian Indians were seen by Bulkley and his companions. They were mounted on horses, or mules, which is the first notice we have of their possessing those animals. Duclos de Guyot, in the year 1766, had an interview with seven Patagonian Indians, who were mounted on_ horses equipped with saddles, bridles, and stirrups. The shortest of the men measured five feet eleven inches and a quarter English. The others were considerably taller. 'Their chief or leader they called ¢ Capitan.’ Bougainville, in 1767, landed amongst the Patagonians. Of their size he remarks: “ They have a fine shape; among those whom we saw, not one was below five feet ten inches and a quarter (English), nor above six feet two inches and a half in height. Their gigantic appearance arises from their pro- digiously broad shoulders, the size of their heads, and the thickness of all their limbs. They are robust and well fed : their nerves are braced and their muscles strong, and sufficiently hard, &c.” This is an excellent account; but how different is that of Commodore Byron, who says, “ One of them, who afterwards appeared to be chief, came towards me; he was of gigantic stature, and seemed to realise the tales of monsters in a human shape: he had the skin of some wild beast thrown over his shoulders, as a Scotch Highlander wears his plaid, and was painted so as to make the most hideous appearance I H 2 100 FORMER ACCOUNTS OF PATAGONIANS. ever beheld: round one eye was a large circle of white, a circle of black surrounded the other, and the rest of his body was streaked with paint of different colours. .I did not measure him; but if I may judge of his height by the proportion of his stature to my own, it could not be less than seven feet. When this frightful colossus came up, we muttered somewhat to each other as a salutation, &c.”* After this he mentions a woman *‘ of most enormous size ;” and again, when Mr. Cum- ming, the lieutenant, joined him, the commodore says, ‘* Before the song was finished, Mr. Cumming came up with the tobacco, and I could not but smile at the astonishment which I saw expressed in his countenance upon perceiving himself, though six feet two inches high, become at once a pigmy among giants, for these people may, indeed, more properly be called giants than tall men: of the few among us who are full six feet high, scarcely any are broad and muscular, in proportion to their stature, but look rather like men of the common bulk grown up accidentally to an unusual height ; and a man who should measure only six feet two inches, and equally exceed a stout well-set man of the common stature in breadth and muscle, would strike us rather as being of a gigantic race, than as an individual accidentally anomalous; our sensations, therefore, upon seeing five hundred people, the shortest of whom were at least four inches taller, and bulky in proportion, may be easily imagined.” This account was published only seven years after the voyage, and the exaggeration, if any, might have been exposed by numbers. There can be no doubt, that among five hundred persons several were of a large size; but that all were four inches taller than six feet must have been a mistake. The com- modore says, that he ‘ caused them all to be seated,” and in that position, from the length of their bodies, they would certainly appear to be of very large stature.} * Hawksworth’s Coll. i 28. + Ibid. } See a letter from Mr. Charles Clarke, an officer on board the Dol- phin, to Mr. Maly, M.D., secretary of the Royal Society, dated Nov. 3, 1766, read before the Royal Society on 12th April 1767, and published in the \ FORMER ACCOUNTS OF PATAGONIANS. 101 Shortly afterwards, Wallis, in the neighbourhood of Cape Virgins, communicated with the same people, and as the story of the Patagonian giants had been spread abread, and was very much discredited, he carried two measuring rods with him; and says, in his narrative, ‘‘ We went round and mea- sured those that appeared to be the tallest. One was six feet seven inches high, several more were six feet five, and six feet six inches ; but the stature of the greatest part of them was from five feet ten to six feet.” In the voyage of the Santa Maria de la Cabeza,* 1786, it is related that the height of one or two Patagonians, with whom the officers had an interview, was six feet eleven inches and a half (of Burgos), which is equal to six feet four inches and a half (English). This man wore a sword, on.which was engraved “ Por el Rey Carlos III.,” and spoke a few words in Spanish, proofs of his having had communication with some of the Spanish settlements. It does not, however, appear from the account that there were many others, if any, of that height. Of all the above accounts, I think those by Bougainville and Wallis the most accurate. It is true, that of the number we saw, none measured more than six feet two inches; but it is possible that the preceding generation may have been a larger race of people, for none that we saw could have been alive at the time of Wallis’s or Byron’s voyage. ‘The oldest certainly were the tallest ; but, without discrediting the accounts of Byron, or any other of the modern voyagers, I think it pro- bable that, by a different mode of life, or a mixture by marriage with the southern or Fuegian tribes, which we know has taken place, they have degenerated into a smaller race, and have lost all right to the title of giants; yet their bulky, the fifty-seventh volume of the Phil. Trans., parti. p. 75, in which an exaggerated account is given of this meeting. The men are described to be eight feet high, and the women seven and a half to eight feet. “ They are prodigious stout, and as well and proportionably made as ever I saw people in my life.” This communication was probably intended to cor- roborate the commodore’s account. * Ultimo Viage, p. 21. 102 FORMER ACCOUNTS OF PATAGONIANS. muscular forms, and length of body, in some measure bear out the above accounts; for had the present generation pro- portionate limbs, they might, without any exaggeration, justify the account of Commodore Byron. The Jesuit Missionary Falkner,* who, from an intercourse of forty years with the Indians of South America, must be considered as one of the best authorities, says, speaking of a Patagonian named Canga- pol, “‘ This chief, who was called by the Spaniards the Cacique Bravo,- was tall and well-proportioned ; he must have been seven feet and some inches in height, because on tiptoe I could not reach the top of his head: I was very well acquainted with him, and went some journeys in his company: I do not recollect ever to have seen an Indian that was above an inch or two taller than Cangapol. His brother Sausimian was but about six feet high. The Patagonians or Puelches are a large- bodied people; but I never heard of that gigantic race which others have mentioned, though I have seen persons of all the different tribes of the Southern Indians.” This is an account in 1746, only twenty years before that of Bougainville. Taking all the evidence together, it may be con- sidered, that the medium height of the males of these southern tribes is about five feet eleven inches. The women are not so tall, but are in proportion broader and stouter: they are generally plain-featured. The head is long, broad and flat, and the forehead low, with the hair growing within an inch of the eye- brows, which are bare. The eyes are often placed obliquely, and have but little expression, the nose is generally rather flat, and turned up; but we noticed several with that feature * Falkner, according to Dean Funes, was originally engaged in the slave trade at Buenos Ayres ; but afterwards beeame a Jesuit, and studied in the college at Cordova, where, to an eminent knowledge of medicine, he added that of theology. He is the author of a description of Pata- gonia, published in London after the expulsion of the Jesuits.—( Ensayo de la Historia Civil del Paraguay, Buenos Ayres, y Tucuman, por el Doctor Don Gregorio Funes, tii. p. 23, note. Published at Buenos Ayres. 8vo. 1817.) + See Dean Funes’s account of Buenos Ayres, and of the Indian tribes, vol. ii. 394. CHARACTER OF PATAGONIANS. 103 straight, and sometimes aquiline: the mouth is wide, with prominent lips, and the chin is rather large ; the jaws are broad, and give the face a square appearance; the neck is short and thick ; the shoulders are broad; the chest is broad, and very full; but the arm, particularly the fore-arm, is small, as are also the foot and leg ; the body long, large and fat, but not corpulent. Such was the appearance of those who came under my observation. As to their character, the Patagonians are friendly, without that disposition to quarrel, after the novelty of first acquaintance has worn off, which is so common among savages in general. This probably arises from interested motives, certainly not from fear, unless it be the fear of being avoided instead of visited by the ships which pass by, and from which they procure many useful articles, and many temporary gratifications. Swords, long knives, tobacco, Paraguay tea, bits, saddles, guns, lead for balls, red cloth, beads (particularly of a sky- blue colour), flour, sugar, and spirits, are much desired in exchange for their peltry and guanaco meat; but they have no idea beyond that of satisfying the wants of the moment. After a few pounds of tobacco had been distributed amongst them, although they are very fond of smoking, it became quite a drug, and it was necessary to produce something new to excite their attention. From Maria’s influence, and the reference so constantly made to her, it would seem that she was con- sidered as cacique of the tribe; but her apparent superiority may arise from her connexion with Bysante, of whom they all spoke as ‘ El Cacique Grande,’ or from the attention paid to her by ships with whom they communicate. The people of this tribe seemed to live together harmoniously ; no bickerings or jealous feelings were observed, and certainly none were expressed by any one of our bulky friends on witnessing another receiving a valuable present, or a good exchange for his property. At sunset our people were ordered to embark, upon which the price of Patagonian goods immediately fell, at least, a thousand per cent., though many held back in expectation of 104 FUEGIANS—SHIPS SAIL. 1827. the next day. Maria put into the boat, after my refusal to let her go on board to pass the night, two bags, and asked me to send her flour and sugar. She was most importunate for aqua ardiente, which, however, I refused. Her constant cry was ** It is very good to be drunk ; I like drinking very much; rum is very good.—Give me some ?” (‘Muy bueno es boracho, mucho mi gusta, mucho mi gusta de beber, muy bueno es aqua ardiente.—Da me no mas ?*) Among them was a Fuegian Indian; but it did not appear | clearly whether he was living with them permanently, or only on a visit. Some of us thought we understood the account of one of the Patagonians, who seemed to be the most interested about him, to be, that a master of a sealer had left him amongst them. We knew him instantly by his squalid and compara- tively diminutive appearance, and were confirmed in our ideas by his recognition of the words ‘ Hosay’ and Sherroo.’ The Patagonian name for a ship is ‘ Carro grande,’ and for a boat ‘ Carro chico,’ a mixture of their own and the Spanish lan- guage. All that I could understand of his history was, that he was Cacique of some Indian tribes at a distance: he was evidently a great favourite, and although Maria spoke generally with much contempt of the Fuegian Indians, she had patronised this stranger, for he lived in her toldo, and shared all the presents that were made to her. The following morning it rained hard, and blew so fresh a gale, from the westward, that it would have been dangerous to send a boat on shore: and I was obliged to weigh without landing the things which I had promised. After we were under weigh, the weather cleared partially, when we observed Maria on the beach, mounted on her white horse, with others watching our departure, and when it was evident that we were really gone, she rode slowly back to her toldo, no doubt considerably vexed. I was very sorry to treat them in this way, for their conduct towards us had been open and friendly. PURCHASE THE ADELAIDE. 107 rine’s we remained eight days, and during the interval necessary for ascertaining the rates of the chronometers, I obtained mag- netic observations. After a tedious voyage of nineteen days from St. Catherine’s, I arrived at Monte Video, and there received intelligence that the long-wished permission from the Lord High Admiral, to procure a tender, had been obtained. I accordingly purchased a schooner, which I named the Adelaide, and appointed Lieu- tenant Graves to the command. Five months’ additional pro- visions for both vessels were purchased, and put into her; and on the 23d December, after running up the river to complete our water, we sailed out by the southern entrance, passing to the westward of the Archimedes’ Shoal, and proceeded without farther detention to the southward. On the Ist of January (in latitude 43° 17’ and long. 61° 9/), I was informed that we were close to a rock. Upon going on deck,I saw the object ; but in a very short time I perceived it was a dead whale, upon whose half-putrid body large flocks of birds were feeding. Many on board were, however, sceptical, until, on passing to leeward, the strong odour testified the fact. Its appearance certainly was very like the summit of a dark brown rock, covered with weeds and barnacles, and the myriads of birds which surrounded it added to the deception. It could, however, be distinguished by its buoyancy; for the water did not break over it, as of course it would have done had it been a fixed body. Such is probably the origin of half the ‘ vigias’ that are found on the charts. Whales, when struck by the fishers, frequently escape and perish; the carcass then floats on the surface of the sea, until decomposed or eaten by birds and fishes. A small vessel striking against such a mass, would probably be severely injured; and at night, the shell, that it seemed as if the shell increased with the animal’s growth. When so many learned naturalists have differed so materially as to the character of the inhabitants of the argonauta, it would be presumption in me to express even an opinion; I therefore merely mention the fact, and state that in no one specimen did there appear to be any connexion between the animal and the shell. 108 SHOALS OFF CAPE BLANCO. Jan. 1828. body, from its buoyancy and the sea not breaking against it, would not be readily seen. On the 4th, being about one hundred miles to the N.E. of Cape Blanco, I communicated with Captain Stokes, and gave him directions to proceed to Port Desire for chronometrical observations, and then follow me immediately to Cape Fair- weather or Cape Virgins. We had light winds during the night, so that the Beagle made very little progress. In the afternoon, Cape Blanco, a long level-topped ridge, came in sight, of which good views are given in Lord Anson’s voyage. We steered towards the land, and at six o’clock were in eigh- teen fathoms, the rocky hill at the extremity of the Cape bearing S. 10° E. thirteen miles; at seven-o’clock, the same hill was six miles and a half off, bearing S. 3° E., when we observed a line of rippling water, extending from east to as far as we could see on the south horizon. ‘The depth was seven- teen fathoms, but as we proceeded it gradually decreased to twelve and ten, and soon afterwards to seven fathoms, when the Beagle was observed to be firing guns; but whether they were intended to warn us of danger, or as signals of her own distress, we could not determine, and I hauled to the wind to cross where the ripple appeared least violent. In passing through it we had not less than seven fathoms, and then it deepened to twelve and fifteen fathoms. We had now leisure to attend to the Beagle, and soon saw that her signals were only to warn us, for she had resumed her course under a press of sail. After steering four miles to the S.E., we again found our- selves in the midst of ripplings, in which the water shoaled to six fathoms. It being then dark, and not knowing how to proceed, we shortened sail and brought to the wind, in order that if the ship struck it might be with less force; but hap- pily we passed on without any further decrease of soundings. In going through the ripple, the Adelaide, though deeply laden, behaved well. Commodore Byron passed over these shoals, which he describes as lying at a greater distance from the shore: it was to avoid them that we passed so near the land. Jan. 1828. BELLACO.—POSSESSION BAY. 109 During the following evening there was a very heavy dew, the never-failing prognostic of a northerly wind ; the horizon, also, was very hazy, and the water perfectly smooth. We were not more than ten miles off shore, yet the land was completely distorted in appearance by mirage. Next morning we were very close to the position assigned to the Bellaco, or St. Estevan’s Shoal, the existence of which has been very much doubted. It was discovered by the Nodales, and in the diary of their voyage is thus described : ‘* At five o’clock, or later in the evening, we discovered a rock a-wash (‘ una baxa que lababa la mar en ella’) about five leagues from the shore, more or less. It is a very deceitful rock (‘Es muy bellaco baxo’), because it is under water, over which, in fine weather and smooth water, the sea breaks. We sounded near it, and found twenty-six fathoms stony bottom. Its latitude is 483°, accord- ing to our noon observation, and the course and distance we have since run.” * The late Don Felipe Bauza, one of the companions of Males- pina, informed me, that on the voyage of the Descubierta and Atrevida, their boats were sent to look for it, but were unsuc- cessful. At noon we were in lat. 48° 40’S., long. 66° 6’, depth forty- two fathoms, but without any signs of the Bellaco. Sailing on, the coast was seen in the neighbourhocd of Beachy Head (so named from its resemblance to the well-known promontory). Afterwards, Cape Fairweather came in sight, and on the 10th Cape Virgins, which we passed in the evening, and, half an hour afterwards, rounding Dungeness, we again entered the Strait of Magalhaens; and anchored near the northern shore. In Possession Bay we were detained several days, although repeated attempts to pass the First Narrow were anxiously made. One evening, clouds gathered, and the weather assumed such a threatening appearance, that I expected to be obliged to run to sea; but to our surprise, when the cloudy mass seemed on * Nodales, p. 48. 110 FIRST NARROW—RACE. Jan. 1828. the point of bursting over us with a deluge of rain, it suddenly vanished, and was succeeded by a beautifully clear and fine night. ‘This favourable appearance gave us hopes of being able to make good our entrance on the following day ; but a fresh gale set in, and kept us at our anchorage. Karly on the 14th we made another fruitless attempt to pass the First Narrow. As the Adelaide sailed under our stern, Lieutenant Graves informed me that he had lost an anchor, and had only one left, to which he had bent his chain-cable ; and that she had shipped so much water in attempting to beat through, that he was on the point of asking permission to bear up when we ourselves gave up the attempt. It blew too hard to give any assistance to the Adelaide, but next morning, when the weather was more moderate, I seized an opportunity of sending our two kedge anchors; and in the afternoon we supplied her with some water and other necessaries, so that she was comparatively well off, and my anxiety on her account much relieved. Fires on the Fuegian side had been kept up since our arri- val, but we could not distinguish any inhabitants; on the Patagonian shores we saw a great number of guanacoes feeding quietly, a proof of there being no Indians near them. On the 16th, the weather appearing favourable, our anchor was weighed, and, with the Adelaide, we soon entered the sluice of the Narrow, proceeding rapidly, though the wind blew hard against us. ‘The tide carried us to an anchorage, about four miles beyond the western entrance, and it was slack water when the anchor was dropped ; but, no sooner had the stream turned, than we found ourselves in the midst of a ‘ race, and during the whole tide, the water broke furiously over the ship. At slack water we got underweigh, but the Adelaide not being able (from the strength of the tide), to purchase her anchor, was obliged to slip the cable: it was fortunate that we had supplied her with our kedges, or she would then have been without an anchor. ‘The night was tempestuous, and although we reached a much quieter birth, the Adelaide drifted considerably ; had she remained at the morning’s anchorage, Jan. 1828. GREGORY BAY—VIEW. 111 in order to save her anchor and cable, we should probably never have seen her again. The succeeding morning, after a hard beat to windward, both vessels anchored in Gregory Bay. No Indians were in the neighbourhood, or we should have seen their fires. In the afternoon the wind moderated, and as there was every appear- ance of fine weather, I remained to survey the coast. On the summit of the land, about half a mile northward of the extremity of the Cape, while Lieutenant Graves and I were taking bearings, and making observations, two guanacoes came up and stood neighing at us; the observation, however, was of consequence, and as they were not disturbed, they remained watching us for some minutes before they took alarm and fled. Lieutenant Wickham and Mr. Tarn made an excursion to the summit of the Table Land, previously described as extend- ing from the low land behind the Second Narrow to the N.E., in the direction of Mount Aymond, and were amply repaid for a fatiguing walk, with the thermometer at 81°, by a magni- ficent view : Cape Possession to the eastward, and to the south the mountains near Mount Tarn, eighty miles distant, were plainly distinguished. The view to the westward, stretch- ing over a large extent of grassy plains, was bounded by lofty ranges of snow-capped mountains; but to the north it was intercepted by another summit of the mountain upon which they stood. ‘The country they passed over was covered with short grass, through which a mass of granite occasionally protruded. Neither trees nor shrubs were observed, excepting a few herbaceous plants, and the berberis; a goose, some ducks, snipe, and plovers were shot ; and guanacoes were seen at a distance, but no ostriches, nor did they meet any Indians. Large fires were, however, kindled on both shores of the Strait, in answer to the fire which they made for cooking. In con- sequence of those on the Patagonian coast appearing so close to us, we expected a visit from the natives before night, but none made their appearance. Next morning, Mr. Graves accompanied me in a boat toa 112 GREGORY BAY—TOMB. Jan. 1828. station three miles within the Second Narrow on the north side, and in our way we found the geological structure of the cliffs to be of a decomposed clay-slate, arranged in strata, much distorted by the violent action of the water, and dispersed in vertical and inclined directions in very thin lamine. These cliffs are about one hundred feet high, the soil a sandy alluvium, of a sterile character, scantily covered with a wiry, stunted grass, and here and there a berberis bush, loaded with ripe fruit, which, from the poverty of the soil, was tasteless and dry ; the ground was also, in many parts, over-run to a considerable extent with an insipid cranberry, scarcely worth the trouble of gathering. We struck across the country, with the view of examining the place where the Indians were residing at our last visit, and the tomb which had then been erected. Grass had grown up, and effaced the traces of feet; but the tomb had suffered no farther alteration than the weather might have effected. We found that the place had been recently visited by the natives, for within a few yards of the entrance were strewed the ashes of a large fire, containing vestiges of the former decorations of the tomb, and the end of one of the flag-staffs, with the unburnt corner of one of the banners. Amongst the ashes, also, we found calcined bones; but whether they were human or not, we could not ascertain. | The discovery of the bones impressed us with the idea that the body had been burnt, and determined me to examine the tomb. The bushes that filled up the entrance appeared to be placed exactly as when we first saw them, and indeed the whole pile seemed to have remained quite undisturbed ; but there was no appearance of the brass ornaments, or of the effigies of the horses. Having effected an opening in the bushes, we found an inner covering, made of horse-skins. Having cut two holes opposite each other, for the admission of light, we saw nothing but two parallel rows of stones, three in each row, probably intended as a bier for the body or a covering for the grave ; but the ground around and between them bore no appearance Jan. 1828. TRAFFIC WITH NATIVES. 113 of having been disturbed for burial.* As we hourly expected the Indians would arrive (the place being in the direct line of their journey to the ships), and were unwilling to let them know we had disturbed the sanctuaries of their dead, we restored the former appearance of the tomb; and it was fortunate we did so, for three women on horseback, carrying their children in cradles, with a quantity of skins, provisions, and other merchandise, evidently the harbingers of the tribe, made their appearance, and immediately began to erect their tents. When we next went on shore we found several Indians arrived, and divided into three groups, with inantles, ostrich- feathers, skins, and joints of guanaco meat displayed for sale. As the meat appeared fresh, it is probable that, on seeing us, the women were despatched to place the toldos, while the men set out to provide guanaco meat, for they knew our par- tiality for this excellent food. When we landed, an active barter began. From the haste and avidity shown in offering their goods, and closing the bargains, it seemed as if they were anxious to monopolize our articles of barter before the rest of their party, or tribe arrived. One old man attempted to cheat ; but my interdiction of all farther traffic with him brought him to a sense of his error, and I then made him a present of some tobacco and allowed him to trade, which he afterwards did, with cheerfulness and honesty. One of the party was the Fuegian chief, whom I previously noticed, as a squalid, meagre-looking man; but he was now enlarged to Patagonian dimensions, by his improved diet and more cheerful mode of life. The appearance of bad weather obliged us to suspend the barter and get on board. After we had reached the ship, successive parties of the tribe arrived, * Falkner says, in his account of the burial ceremonies of the southern Patagonians—that, after a certain interval, the bodies are taken out of the tomb, and skeletons are made of them by the women—the flesh and entrails having been burnt. It is possible that in this case the body had been so treated, and that the fire near it was for the purpose of burning the flesh, and perhaps with it all the flags and ornaments of the tomb. VOL. I. I 114 CORDIAL MEETING. Jan. 1828. and formed the encampment. Among them, mounted on her white horse, was Maria, who, duly escorted, paraded on the beach to challenge our recognition. In the centre of the encampment, a large flag suspended from a pole was a signal to us, and showed the position of her toldo. The next morning being fine, we landed near the encamp- ment, and were most cordially received. Maria was parti- cularly attentive, and embraced me closely, while her compa- nions chaunted in chorus a song of delight at our arrival. When we reached her toldo, a mat was spread out for me to sit on. Maria and her family placed themselves in front of me, while the rest sat round. Almost the first question was an inquiry for my son Philip, whom they called Felipe,* and two or three skins were given to me for him. They then asked for our pilot on the former voyage, and were much disap- pointed to find he had left the ship. After a short conversation I returned the two bags (which I had so unwillingly carried away at our last visit), having filled them with flour and sugar, and then proceeded to deliver our presents. As each article was delivered into her hands, she. repeated, in Spanish, “< [ll pay for this;” but upon a bit for her horse being pre- sented, a general burst of admiration followed, and it was handed round the tents, whilst each individual, as it passed on, looked, I thought, anxious to be its possessor. Maria then began to consider what adequate requital she could possibly make me. The result was, a present of two mantles, one new, of guanaco skin, and the other well worn, of zorillo skin, besides two or three skins of the puma. She then produced a piece of paper, carefully wrapped up in canvas, containing a letter, or memorandum, left by Mr. Low, master of the Uxbridge sealer, addressed to any shipmaster passing through the Strait, apprising him “of the friendly disposition of the Indians, and impressing him with the necessity of treat- ing them well, and not deceiving them; for they had good memories, and would seriously resent it.” The advice, no doubt, was good; but I think the fear of * He was a great favourite with them. Jan. 1828. MARIA GOES ON BOARD. 115 forfeiting advantages and comforts to be derived from traffic would induce them to restrain their resentment. I brought no spirits; for which, after a short time, Maria asked, complaining that she was very ill, and had sore eyes, and for some time past had nothing but water to drink, and wood to smoke. Her illness was evidently assumed, but her eyes seemed highly inflamed; and no wonder, for the upper part of her face was smeared over with an ochrous red pig- ment, even to the very edge of her eyelids: indeed, the whole tribe had ornamented themselves similarly, in compliment, I suppose, to our visit. As I prepared to return on board, Maria’s importunity - induced me to allow her to accompany me; upon which she began to muster up all her empty bags, old mantles, and skins, and, attended by her husband, her brother-in-law, his wife and daughter, got into the boat. While going on board, the spray washed the painted countenances of our visitors, much to their regret. Upon reaching the ship, I ordered them to be regaled with meat and biscuit, of which they partook very sparingly, but took care to put what remained into their bags. Some spirits and water, too, which I thought would be soon dispatched, and which had been plentifully diluted to prevent their being made tipsy, they emptied into bottles to take on shore “ for the evening,” when, as Maria said, they would be “very drunk.” Among various things shown to amuse them was a musical snuff-box, which I had procured for the express purpose of exciting their astonishment; but I was surprised to find, that a penny-whistle produced a ten-fold greater effect upon their senses. This indifference to musical sounds i should not have suspected, because they frequently sing, though certainly in a monotonous manner. As soon as their repast was concluded, the party, except Maria and the girls, commenced bartering their mantles and skins, and, by the time their stock was expended, they had amassed a large quantity of biscuit, and a bundle of various Toe 116. NATIVES INTOXICATED. Jan. 1828. trifles, some of which they had attempted to get by pilfering. They made themselves so contented, that it was not without much difficulty we could persuade them to go on shore. Maria had made her mind up to pass the night on board, and so anxious were they all to remain, that it was only by giving Maria two bottles of spirits (which had been well diluted) that they were induced to get into the boat, and accompany me ashore. Being a lee-tide, and low water, the boat grounded at a considerable distance from the beach ; seeing this, some of the Indians rode into the water, and taking us up behind them, conveyed us to the encampment, my place being behind Maria, the smell of whose zorillo-skin mantle was hardly bearable ; but it was necessary to conceal our dislike of our companions as much as possible, for they are very sensitive, and easily offended. While waiting for the tide, we witnessed a drunken scene at Maria’s toldo. Fifteen persons, seated around her, shared the spirits she had obtained on board, until all were intoxicated. Some were screaming, others laughing, some stupified, and some bellowing. ‘The uproar drew all the other Indians round the tent, who tendered their assistance to compose their friends, and we returned to the ship. When we visited them the next day, they were quite recovered, and gave us some guanaco meat, which had been brought in that morning. On com- municating my intention of proceeding on the voyage, Maria wished to know when we should finish our “ seal-killing,” and come back. I told her “in five moons,” upon which she endeavoured to persuade me to return in four, because she would then have plenty of skins to barter. I wrote a few lines to Captain Stokes, who, I expected, would arrive in a day or two, communicating my desire that he should follow, as soon as possible, to Port Famine, and committed the letter to Maria’s care, who promised to deliver it to him; then, taking leave of her and her companions, I embarked, and proceeded through the Second Narrow to an anchorage off Cape Negro. Our visit to Gregory Bay, and communication with the Jan. 1828. LAREDO RAY—PORT FAMINE. abilivé Indians, furnished us with many additions to our zoological collection; among them was a tiger-cat, which seemed, from the description, to be the Felis pajaros of the Encyclopédie Méthodique (the “ Chat de Pampa” of D’Azara). Maria gave me a very large bezoar stone, that was taken from the stomach of a guanaco. It is used medicinally by the Indians, as a remedy for bowel complaints.* Whilst we were at the anchorage before Cape Negro, Mr. Tarn and Mr. Wickham visited the lake at the back of Laredo Bay, and saw two swans, which, from the colour of their plumage, seemed to be the black-necked swan of the River Plata and of the Falkland Islands}- (Dom Pernettey, 11. p.148). They brought on board with them a new species of duck, which is described in the proceedings of the Zoological Society as Anas specularis (Nob.), and a small burrowing animal, of the rat tribe, that, from the character of its teeth, is probably of a genus not hitherto noted: it approaches nearest to F. Cuvier’s Helamys. We next anchored in Port Famine, where the tents, &c. were replaced in their former positions, the ship was unrigged and secured for the winter, and all hands set to work, prepar- ing the Adelaide for service. * The medicinal property of this intestinal concretion is well known wherever the animal is found. Marcgrave, in his “ ‘Tractatus topogra- phicus et meteorologicus Brasiliz,”’ folio, p.36, says :—‘* Hee animalia (guanacoes) generant lapides Bezoares in sinu quodam ventriculi, qui maximi estimantur contra venena et febres malignos ad roborandum et refocillandum cor, aliosque affectus. Materia é qua generantur sunt herbe insignis virtutis, quibus vescuntur nature instinctu ad sanitatem tuendum, aut morbos et venena superandum. Hi lapides inveniuntur in adultioribus hisce animalibus atque interdum tam grandes, ut unum in Italiam attu- lerim qui pendet uncias duas supra triginta.”—Mr. Thompson, on Intes- tinal Concretions. See his Syn. of Chemistry, iv. 576. + Anser nigrocollis. Encyc. Méthod., art. Ornithol. 108, CHAPTER VIII. Find that the Cutter had been burned—Anxiety for the Beagle—Ux- bridge Sealer — Beagle arrives— Her cruize—Bellaco Rock—San Julian—Santa Cruz—Gallegos—Adeona—Death of Lieutenant Sholl! —Adelaide Sails—Supposed Channel of San Sebastian—Useless Bay —Natives—Port San Antonio—Humming-birds—Fuegians — Beagle sailed—Sarmiento—Roldan— Pond —W hales—Structure—Scenery— Port Gallant. Port Famine bore evident marks of having been visited in our absence by the Indians, for a large fire, apparently recent, had over-run the grass, and burned the trees upon Point Santa Anna, particularly in that part where our boat had been so care- fully concealed. Eager to know whether she had escaped the fire, I lost no time in hastening to the spot, directly after the Adventure anchored, and found, as our fears had anticipated, that she had been completely destroyed, scarcely a vestige of her wood remaining, and most of the iron-work having been carried away ; for which, doubtless, the Indians had set her on fire. The sheds for the cooper and armourer, which had been erected with some pains, were also entirely consumed, and every thing portable had been carried away. Those things which were of no use to them were either broken or burnt ; but some of our station poles on Point Santa Anna were left uninjured; as well as the tablet erected to the memory of Mr. Ainsworth and the boat’s crew; which was singular, because it was secured by iron hoops—of great value, in their eyes. From the fresh traces of horses in the neighbourhood, we at first suspected the conflagration to have been caused by the Patagonians; but we soon found we owed our loss to the Fue- gians, for in two new wigwams were strewed some remains of our boat. The last winter appeared to have been milder than that pre- ceding it, for last January, Mount Sarmiento and the hills to Jan. 1828. BEAGLE—UXBRIDGE—LOW. 119 the southward, over Fitton Bay, were so covered with snow, that not a particle of the rock could be seen; but this year many bare spots were visible. Every thing else, however, indi- cated a bad season, and the berberis bushes and arbutus shrubs had scarcely any show of fruit ; which was rather a disappoint- ment, as the berries of the former plant proved an agreeable addition to our food last year. However, there was no scarcity of birds, and with the seine we procured plenty of fish. The Beagle’s long and unexpected absence caused us much uneasiness, and some apprehension for her safety. Her visit to Port Desire ought not to have occupied more than three days, and her superior sailing should have enabled Captain Stokes to rejoin us in the entrance of the Strait. People were sent daily to look out for her, and every succeeding day increased our anxiety. A. long succession of blowing and rainy weather much impeded our progress with the Adelaide; but the Hope was hoisted out, and prepared for service. Before daylight on the 14th I was informed that the Beagle was seen in the offing. Blue lights were burnt, and lanterns immediately shown to guide her to the anchorage ; but our disappointment was great when the stranger proved to be Mr. W. Low’s schooner, the Uxbridge. He had been sealing since November in the neighbourhood of Noir Island, near the outer entrance of the Barbara Channel, and was on his way to Cape Gregory to meet his elder brother, who had been collecting sea-elephant oil at South Shetland. The Uxbridge had entered the Strait from the Pacific, by the Magdalen ‘Channel,’ which last year we thought a Sound, and had attempted to explore in the Hope, but had been deceived by the abrupt change in the direction of the Channel at Cape Turn. At last (on the 28th), after the Beagle’s absence had been protracted to more than a month beyond the time intended, we were relieved from painful anxiety, and much rejoiced, by Mr. Tarn’s telling us he had just seen her, and in two hours afterwards she arrived. Captain Stokes, to my great surprise, told me that he had 120 BELLACO—RIVER GALLEGOS. Jan. 1828. been examining the whole coast between Port Desire and Cape Virgins, and for the last ten days had been detained in the Gallegos River by heavy gales of wind. He had sounded round, and fixed the position of the Bellaco Rock, or St. Este- van’s Shoal, the existence of which had been so long doubted. He had also visited and partially surveyed, the harbours of Port San Julian and Santa Cruz, besides Coy Bay, and had made almost a complete survey of the River Gallegos, which he found to be a large and rapid river, whose entrance forms a spacious port: instead of being blocked up by a mound of shingle four or five feet above the level of the sea, and having so small a stream as to escape the notice of Mr. Weddell as he walked along the beach.* Cape Fairweather is so remark- able, and so correctly placed upon the chart, that Mr. Weddell, in his search for the river, must have very much deceived himself. I should think he must have mistaken the ravine described upon my former visit, since that is the only part which answers his description: it could not be Coy Bay, be- cause that opening, although of minor importance, has a broad boat communication with the sea. Captain Stokes described the tide at the anchorage, within the mouth of the Gallegos, as running at the rate of five knots, and rising forty-six feet. From Mr. Weddell’s account, he was on the point of passing by without examining it; but the wea- ther being fine, he determined to go in his boat and ascertain the truth of that description. It was soon evident that the river was large, and, returning to his ship, he lost no time in anchoring her within the entrance, where she rode out a heavy gale from S.W. The Beagle left the Gallegos on the 23d, and reached Port Famine on the 28th, a very short passage, since she remained for a night and the greater part of a day at Gregory Bay, to communicate with the natives. When approaching the First Narrow, Captain Stokes observed a brig, apparently at anchor, under Cape Orange, and supposing her either to have found a good anchorage, or to be in distress, steered towards her, * Weddell’s Voyage. Jan. 1828. LIEUTENANT SHOLL. 121 Before he had reached within two miles of her, the Beagle touched the ground, but was extricated from the danger most fortunately, because it was nearly high water; and had she remained a-ground during the tide, the consequences might have been serious—at least, she could not have been got off without lightening her considerably. The brig proved to be the Adeona (Mr. Low’s vessel), on her way to meet the Ux- bridge. In attempting to enter the narrow, she grounded on the shoals, and had been left dry. The following tide again floated her, and she was on the point of getting under- weigh, when the Beagle hove in sight. Captain Stokes finding that the Adeona had received no damage, proceeded to Gregory Bay. By the Beagle’s arrival we were informed of the death of Lieutenant Robert H. Sholl, after an illness of ten days. His remains were interred at Port San Julian, where a tablet was erected to his memory. This excellent young man’s death was sincerely regretted by all his friends, and by none more than by me. He was appointed to the expedition, as a midshipman, solely on account of his high character. During our voyage from England, he made himself con. spicuously useful in saving the cargo of a vessel, which was stranded in Port Praya ; and on our arrival at Rio de J aneiro, the Commander-in-chief appointed him to a vacant lieutenantcy on board the Beagle: an appointment which, up to the pericd of his lamented death, he filled zealously and most creditably.* On the Ist of March we were surprised by the appearance of three Europeans, walking round Point St. Anna. A boat * T cannot avoid noticing here the considerate conduct of the Com- mander-in-chief (Sir George Eyre) with respect to this appointment. By the tenor of my instructions the Adventure and Beagle were placed under the Admiral’s orders; and the vacancy, had he wished to exercise his prerogative, might have been filled by one of his own followers. It was, however, given, at my request, to Mr. Sholl, as being more con- versant with the duties of this peculiar service than any of the midship- men of the flag-ship, ‘The Admiral’s conduct, on this occasion, calls for my warmest thanks. 129 SUPPOSED SAN SEBASTIAN CHANNEL. 1828. was sent for them, and we found they were deserters from the Uxbridge, who had come to volunteer for our ships. The following day the Adeona and Uxbridge arrived, on their way to Port San Antonio, to boil their oil ; but I recom- mended Bougainville, or (as the sealers call it) Jack’s Harbour, as more convenient for their purpose, and more secure from storms, as well as from troublesome visits of the natives. Upon my offering to restore the three deserters to the Ux- bridge, Mr. Low requested me to keep them, and another, also, who was anxious to join the Adventure, to which I consented, as the Adelaide wanted men. A few days after Mr. Low’s departure, he returned in a whale-boat to ask assistance in repairing the Uxbridge’s rudder. By our help it was soon made serviceable, and she was enabled to prosecute her voyage, which could not otherwise have been continued. The Adelaide being ready for sea: her first service was to be an examination of the St. Sebastian Channel, which, from its delineation on the old charts, would seem to penetrate through the large eastern island of Tierra del Fuego. In the voyage of the Nodales (in the year 1618), an opening on the eastern coast, supposed to be the mouth of a channel, communicating with the Strait of Magalhaens, was discovered. After describing the coast to the south of Cape Espiritu Santo, the journal of that voyage states: “‘ We found, in the channel of St. Sebastian, twenty fathoms clear ground. The north shore is a beach of white sand, five leagues in extent, stretching out from the high land that terminates at Cape Espiritu Santo, and giving the coast here the appearance of a deep bay; but, on a nearer approach, a projecting tract of low shore is observed. ‘The south extremity of this low beach is a sandy point, round which the channel trends; the mouth is a league and a half wide. The south shore is higher than the land to the northward, and in the middle of the bay the depth is from fifteen to twenty fathoms clear ground, and a good bottom ; but from mid- channel to the south shore the bottom is stony, and the water, of little depth, there being only six and seven fathoms. From 1828. SUPPOSED SAN SEBASTIAN CHANNEL. 123 hence the channel shows itself, and continues, as far as we could see, of the same breadth. It seemed to be a large sea. The latitude was observed to be 53° 16’.” * From the above account, and from the chart that accom- panies it, in which this inlet is made to communicate with the Strait of Magalhaens by the opening round Cape Monmouth, our knowledge of the supposed St. Sebastian Channel was derived. That there is a deep bay, in the latitude of 53° 16’, not only appears from the account of the Nodales, who were within the heads, although it seems they did not proceed beyond the stony ground on the south side of the entrance ; but also from the accounts of vessels who have lately seen it ; and of one ship-master who was deterred from entering, by the formidable notice on our charts of its being “ only navigable for small vessels,” whence he conjectured that the tides would be very strong, and the channel occasionally narrow, as well as and shoal. Sarmiento, Narborough, Byron, Wallis, Bougainville, and Cordova, have severally noticed an opening, which corresponds to this supposed channel, namely, that between Capes Mon- mouth and Valentyn; but the object of those voyagers having been to make the passage through the known Strait, to explore this opening was, in all probability, considered a waste of time ; yet, that such a channel was supposed to exist, we must conclude from the conspicuous figure it makes in the charts of Tierra del Fuego. Had there been a knowledge of its affording any com- munication with the sea, surely Sarmiento and Narborough, as well as the Nodales, who navigated the Strait from west to east, would have been induced to attempt to pass through ; and avoid the dangers, as well as difficulties, of the channels to the northward. Anxious to set the question at rest, I gave Captain Stokes orders to proceed to survey the western coasts, between the Strait of Magalhaens and latitude 47° south, or as much of * Relacion del Viage, &c. que hicieron los Capitanes B. G.de Nodales y Gonzalo de Nodales, p, 59. 124 CAPT. STOKES’S ORDERS—USELESS BAY. 1828. those dangerous and exposed shores as he could examine, with the means at his disposal, and sailed myself, in the Adelaide, to explore the supposed St. Sebastian Channel. Every discre- tionary power was given to Captain Stokes to act as he pleased, for the benefit of the service; but he had strict orders to return to Port Famine by the 24th of July, when I hoped to move the Adventure to some other part of the Strait, and to reeommence operations with the earliest days of spring, if the winter should be unfit for our work. Having crossed over to the southward of Point Boqueron, we proceeded, on the 13th of March, to the N.E. (in which direction the opening trended), at no great distance from the northern shore; behind which the country seemed to rise gra- dually to the summit of a long ridge of table-land, terminating near the First Narrow, and appearing like that in the neigh- bourhood of Cape Gregory. It was inhabited; for here and there we observed the smoke of fires, perhaps intended as invi- tations for us to land. The south side of the opening seemed (after forming a small bay under Nose Peak) to extend in a direction parallel to the northern coast of the bay, for three or four leagues, when it dipped beneath the horizon. Neither shore had any opening or indenture in its coast line, of sufficient size to shelter even a boat; so that a vessel caught here, with a south- westerly gale, would have little chance of escape; unless a chan- nel should exist, of which, from the stillness of the water and the total absence of tide, we had very little hope. The sound- ings were variable between twenty and thirty fathoms, and the bottom seemed to be of shells, probably covering a substratum of clay or sand. As we stood on, a small rocky lump came in sight, which appeared to be the termination of the northern shore, and again we flattered ourselves with the expectation of finding a passage; but in less than half an hour afterwards, the bay was distinctly seen to be closed by low land, and the rocky lump proved to be an isolated mass of rock, about two miles inland. As every-person on board was then satisfied of the non-existence of any channel, we put about to return, and 1828. USELESS BAY—NATIVES. 125 by bearings of Mount Tarn, crossed by angles from Mount Graves, Nose Peak, and Point Boqueron, our position, and the extent of this bay, were determined. As it affords neither anchorage nor shelter, nor any other advantage for the navi~ gator, we have named it Useless Bay. It was too much exposed to the prevailing winds to allow of our landing to examine the country, and its productions, or to communicate with the Indians; and as there was not much likelihood of finding any- thing of novel character, we lost no time in retreating from so ex- posed a place. Abreast of Point Boqueron the patent log gave for our run twenty-six miles, precisely the same distance which it had given in the morning ; so that from five o’clock in the morning until ten, and from ten o’clock until four in the after- noon, we had not experienced the least tide, which of itself is a fact confirmatory of the non-existence of a channel. From the fires of the natives in this part having been noticed at a distance from the beach, it would seem that they derive their subsistence from hunting rather than fishing; and as there are guanacoes on the south shore of the First Narrow, it is probable the people’s habits resemble those of the Patago. nians, rather than the Fuegians ; but as they have no horses, the chase of so shy and swift an animal as the guanaco must be fatiguing and very precarious. * Sarmiento is the only person on record who has communicated with the natives in the neighbourhood of Cape Monmouth. He calls them in his narrative a large race (Gente grande). There it was that he was attacked by the Indians, whom he repulsed, and one of whom he made prisoner. We remained a night in Port Famine, and again set out in the Adelaide to survey some of the western parts of the Strait. * Falkner describes the Indians who inhabit the eastern islands of Tierra del Fuego, to be ‘ Yacana-cunnees,’ and as he designates those who inhabit the Patagonian shore of the Strait by the same name, it might be inferred that they are of the same race ; but however closely connected they may have been formerly, they certainly are not so now, for Maria (the Patagonian) spoke very contemptuously of them, and disclaimed their alliance; calling them ‘ zapallios,’ which means slaves. 126 PORT SAN ANTONIO. March 1828. Bad weather forced us into Port San Antonio; of which Cordova gives so favourable an account, that we were surprised to find it small and inconvenient, even for the Adelaide. He describes the port to be a mile and a half long, and three quarters of a mile broad: we found the length a mile and a quarter, and the mean breadth scarcely a quarter of a mile. It possesses no one advantage that is not common to almost every other harbour and cove in the Strait; and for a ship, or square-rigged vessel of any kind, it is both difficult to enter, and dangerous to leave. Besides the local disadvantages of Port San Antonio, the weather in it is seldom fair, even when the day is fine elsewhere. It hes at the base of the Lomas Range, which rises almost perpendicularly to the height of three thousand feet, fronting the great western channel of the Strait, whence it receives upon its cold surface the western winds, and is covered by the vapour, which is condensed from them, while in all other parts the sun may be shining brightly. This port is formed by a channel, a quarter of a mile wide, separating two islands from the shore. The best anchorage is off a picturesque little bay on the south island, which is thickly wooded to the water’s edge with the holly leaved berberis,* fuchsia, and veronica, growing to the height of twenty feet ; over-topped and sheltered by large beech, and Winter’s-bark trees, rooted under a thick mossy carpet, through which a narrow Indian path winds between arbutus and currant bushes, and round prostrate stems of dead trees, leading to the seaward side of the island. Upon the beach, just within the bushes, and sheltered by a large and wide-spreading fuchsia bush, in full flower, stood two Indian wigwams, which, apparently, had not been inhabited since the visit of poor Ainsworth. He had occupied these very wigwams for two days, having covered them over with the boat’s sail; and remains of the ropeyarns that tied it down were still there: a melancholy memento. In no part of the Strait did we find the vegetation so luxuriant as in this little cove. Some of the Winter’s-bark and currant trees had shvots more than five feet long, and many of the * Berberis ilicifoliaa—Banks and Solander MSS. 4 i | | Hi i * AA LP Ting N IN E rl AN PZ 1D) A TL Le G APA THE N fh 0 2] LAS LY in Great Marlborough Street. 18 Pubhshed. by tlemry Colburn March 1828. HUMMING-BIRDS. 127 Winter’s-bark trees were two feet in diameter. The veronica (I believe V. decussata) grows in the sheltered parts to the height of twenty feet, with a stem six inches in diameter. It was found too on the windward side of the island in abundance, and of large size, rooted in the very wash of the sea-beach, and exposed to the full force of the cold winds and hail-storms, which rush down the wide western reach of the Strait. The fuchsia also grows toa large size; but it is a more delicate plant than the veronica, and thrives only in sheltered places. Many were observed six inches in diameter; the stems of the two last plants were used by us, during our stay, for fuel. The day after our arrival, the gale subsided, and the weather became very fine indeed. The stillness of the air may be imagined, when the chirping of humming-birds, and buzzing of large bees, were heard at a considerable distance. A hum- ming-bird had been seen at Port Gallant last year, and was brought to me by Captain Stokes, since which none had been noticed. Here, however, we saw, and procured several; but of only one species.* It is the same as that found on the western coast, as high as Lima; so that it has a range of 41° of latitude, the southern limit being 533°, if not farther south. The islets, at the north part of the port, were well stocked with geese and other birds, which supplied our people with fresh meals. The steamer duck we found difficult to shoot, from its excessive wariness, and power of remaining, for a great length of time, under water. Our fine weather lasted but a few hours, and (no unusual occurrence in these regions) was succeeded by a week’s rain and wind, during which we were confined to the small space * The specimen that was found at Port Gallant was sent by me to Mr. Vigors, who considering it, although well known to ornithologists, as never having yet been named, describes it in the Zoological Journal (vol. ili. p. 432, Aug. 1827), as Mellisuga Kingii. Shortly afterwards M. Lesson published it in his Manuel d’Ornithologie (vol. ii. p. 80.), as Ornismya sephaniodes, as a discovery belonging to La Coquille’s voyage, in the illustrations of which it is figured at plate 31. I rather think, however, that it is Molina’s Trochilus galeritus.—(Molina, 1. 275.). 128 FUEGIANS. March 1828. of the Adelaide; and for some days had three anchors down, owing to the violent squalls. Farenheit’s thermometer ranged between thirty-six and forty-six degrees, and we had several snow storms, but the snow did not lie on the low grounds. On the 28th the gale began to subside, and there was a change for the better ; but we were again disappointed, and not until the 31st could we effect our departure from this dreary and confined little place. The day before we sailed, three canoes, containing in all six- teen persons, of whom six only were men, came alongside. For about an hour they had hesitated to approach; but when once near us, very little invitation was necessary to induce them to come on board. One was clothed in a duck shirt, which was recognised by one of our people, who had joined us from the Uxbridge, as having been given to them a few weeks before, when that vessel passed through Magdalen Channel : another wore a red flannel shirt, and in the canoe we observed an European boarding-pike, painted green, and a part of the iron-work of the cutter, burned at Port Famine during our absence; also some relics of the boat in which Mr. Ainsworth was drowned, which last they had doubtless found thrown up on the beach. Upon our inquiring how they became possessed of the iron-work, they pointed towards Port Famine; and I have no doubt they were concerned in the fire; but as we could not explain to them the mischief they had occasioned, it was thought better not to notice the affair, and the articles were returned to them. They could have had no idea of our being the owners of the boat, or they would have concealed all that belonged to her. They conducted themselves very quietly during their stay on board, with the exception of one, who tried to pick my pocket of a handkerchief; the offender was ordered out of the vessel, and there was no further attempt to pilfer. They wished to go below ; but this was not permitted, because the odour of their oily persons was scarcely tolerable, even in the open air. As to food, tallow-candles, biscuit, beef, plumb-pudding, were March 1828. FuEGIANS—BEAGLE SAILED. 129 equally liked, and swallowed most voraciously. One of them was discovered taking the tallow out of the end of the deep sea lead and eating it, although mixed with sand and dirt. Before sunset their canoes were despatched on shore to pre- pare the wigwams, during which operation three of the men remained on board ; and as soon as the preparations were made they called for a canoe and went on shore. We obtained seve- ral spears, baskets, necklaces, bows and arrows from them in barter ; but they seemed to have very few skins. Perhaps those they possessed were hidden in the bushes, because they had no wish to part with them. One woman was covered with a guanaco mantle; another merely wore a seal-skin over her back and shoulders, which, while she crouched in the canoe, was sufficient to cover her person. One had a black stripe down the nose, but she was the only female gmong them who was so painted. Next morning the Indians visited us with a fresh assortment of bows and arrows, in the manufacture of which they had evidently passed the night, for every one was quite new ; the bows were of green wood, and the arrows not even pointed. They found, however, a ready sale. One of the party was a man who had been turned out of our vessel the preceding even- ing, for picking my pocket; but he was daubed over with a whitish pigment to deceive us, and would probably have escaped detection, but for the unusual ugliness of his person, which was not so easily disguised. He was much disconcerted by our recognition ; and our refusal to barter with him made him angry and sullen. The women had daubed their faces all over with bright red ochre ; to add to their beauty, no doubt. We sailed out of the port by the northern passage, and stand- ing across the Strait, anchored in San Nicolas Bay. Mr. Graves went to Bougainville Harbour, to communicate with the Adeona, and take letters from me to Lieutehant Wickham. He brought back an account of all being well at Port Famine, and of the Beagle having sailed on the 17th. When we left Port Famine my intention was to examine VOL. 1 K 130 SARMIENTO—ROLDAN—PoND. April 1828. the Magdalen Channel; but, upon leaving San Nicolas Bay (1st April), the weather was so favourable for our proceeding to the westward, that I changed my mind and steered round Cape Froward in order to get to Port Gallant, whence, with a westerly wind, we might more easily survey the coast in return- ing. An easterly breeze carried us near Cape Holland, into Wood’s Bay, where we anchored, and obtained a bearing of Mount Sarmiento, which, being clear of clouds, was a con- spicuous, and even splendid object ; for the sun’s setting rays, shining upon the projecting snowy ridges on its western side, gave it the appearance of a mass of streaky gold. It had been in sight the whole day, as well as the preceding evening, when its bearings were taken from the islet in San Nicolas Bay. The next day was so calm that we only reached an anchorage in Bradley Cove, on the west side of Bell Bay, of which a plan was made; an extensive set of bearings was also taken on the west point of the bay, evidently that called by Sarmiento Tinquichisgua.* The conspicuous mountain at the back of the bay, on its south-eastern side, is particularly noticed by him, and, according to his opinion, is the ‘* Campana de Roldan” of Magalhaens.f Between Bradley Cove and Point Tinqui- chisgua are two coves, over which a high double-peaked moun- tain forms a conspicuous object upon rounding Cape Froward ; and they were named in compliment to Mr. Pond, the late Astronomer Royal. While at Point Tinquichisgua we were discovered by some natives to the westward, who immediately got into their canoes, and paddled towards us; but, as we had no arms in the boat, I did not think it prudent to await their arrival ; and therefore, after taking the requisite angles, embarked and returned to the Adelaide, examining the inlets under Mount Pond on our way. Nothing more was seen of the Indians until the following morning, when, as we sailed out of the bay, they made their appearance, but we did not communicate * Sarmiento, p. 213. + Este monte es el que I!aman las Relaciones antiguas la Campana de Roldan.—Sarmiento. April 1828. WwWHALES—STRUCTURE—SCENERY. 131 with them. They were as vociferous as usual, and pointed to the shore, inviting us to land. One of them, who stood up in the canoe while we passed, was ornamented about the hair and body with white feathers. This part of the Strait teems with whales, seals, and por- poises. While we were in Bradley Cove, a remarkable appear- ance of the water spouted by whales was observed; it hung in the air like a bright silvery mist, and was visible to the naked eye, at the distance of four miles, for one minute and thirty- five seconds before it disappeared. A glance at the chart of this part of the Strait will show the difference of geological structure in the opposite coasts. . The north shore, from Cape Froward to Port Gallant, forms a straight line, with scarcely a projection or bight; but on the opposite side there is a succession of inlets, surrounded by precipitous mountains, which are separated by ravines. The northern shore is of slate; but the other is principally of green- stone, and its mountains, instead of running up into sharp peaks, and narrow serrated ridges, are generally round-topped. ‘The vegetation on both sides is almost equally abundant, but the trees on the south shore are much smaller. The smooth- leaved ‘beech (Fagus betuloides) and Winter’s-bark are the principal trees; but here and there a small tree was observed, like a cypress, which does not grow to the eastward, excepting on the sides of Mount Tarn, where it only reaches the height of three or four feet. The scenery of this part of the Strait, instead of being as Cordova describes it, ‘ horrible,” is at this season exceedingly striking and picturesque. The highest mountains certainly are bare of vegetation; but their sharp peaks and snow-covered summits afford a pleasing contrast to the lower hills, thickly clothed with trees quite to the water’s side, which is bordered by masses of bare rock, studded with ferns and moss, and backed by the rich dark-green foliage of the berberis and arbutus shrubs, with here and there a beech-tree, just begin- ning to assume its autumnal tints. In working into the narrow entrance of Port Gallant, the tO) vik a 132 PORT GALLANT. April 1828. schooner grounded upon a bank that extends off the mouth of the river; but the water being perfectly smooth, no damage was caused. As a secure cove, Port Gallant is the best in the Strait of Magalhaens; from the stillness of its waters, it is a perfect wet dock, and from its position it is invaluable. There are many coves as safe and convenient when once entered ; but the prevailing steepness of the shores, as well as the great depth of water, are obstacles of serious importance. Here, however, is an exception: the bottom is even and the depth moderate ; besides, Fortescue Bay, close by, is an excellent roadstead or stopping-place, to await an opportunity of entering. For repairing a ship, Port Famine is more convenient, on account of the quantity and size of well-seasoned timber lying about the beach, and also from the open character of the country. At Port Gallant the trees are much stunted, and unfit for present use, while the shore, as is the case around almost every cove to the westward of Cape Froward, is covered with shrubs and brushwood, quite to the high-water mark; so that there is no possibility of walking easily to any distance from the sea-side. A shingle, or sandy beach, twenty or thirty yards in length, occasionally intervenes, but is scarcely preferable to a vessel’s deck, for a walk. » CHAPTER IX. Detention in Port San Antonio—Humming-birds in snow showers— Fuegians — Geological remarks — Canoes— Carving—Birds—Fish— Shag Narrows— Glaciers —Avalanches— Natives— Climate—W inter setting in—A delaide loses a boat—F loods—Lightning— Scurvy—A de- laide’s survey—Bougainville Harbour—Indians cross the Strait, and visit Port Famine—Sealing vessels sail—Scurvy increases—A delaide sent for guanaco meat—Return of the Beagle—Captain Stokes very ill—Adelaide brings meat from the Patagonians—Death of Captain Stokes. Our stay at this port was prolonged beyond my intention by thick snowy weather and hard gales, which cut off our communication with the shore; for notwithstanding we were in so sheltered a place, and the vessel had three anchors down, we did not consider her quite secure against the violent squalls. We had been fortunate in procuring observations, and took advantage of our detention to lay down the operations of the preceding days on paper. Muscles were found in great abun- dance on the mud flats. ‘There are three varieties, one of which has a bitter, disagreeable taste, but the others are exceedingly good and wholesome. One of the latter is of large size (My- tilus Magellanicus of the Ency. Méth.) The other is of a more globose form than the bitter sort, and has a very obtuse hinge and margin. The bitter kind contains pearls, which are valueless, because small, and of a bad colour. At first there were plenty of sea-birds* in the cove, which took refuge at the head of the bay; till after two days, they deserted us altogether. ‘There appeared to be an abundance of fish ; but as we had not provided ourselves with a seine, and they * Here we obtained a second species of the Steamer-duck, which is described in the Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London, as ‘ Micropterus Putachonicus, Nob.’ It differs from the MW. brachypterus not only in colour but in size, being a smaller bird, and having the power of raising its body, in flight, out of the water. We called it the ‘ Flying Steamer.” 134 HUMMING-BIRDS. April 1828. would not take bait, we were confined for refreshments princi- pally to shell-fish. No traces of quadrupeds, excepting an Indian dog, were noticed. Here Wallis’s people saw a large cloven-footed animal, which they described to be as “big as a jack-ass.” It was probably a deer, one or two of which had occasionally appeared at Port Famine.(e) It has been mentioned that we found many humming-birds at Port San Antonio, which we attributed to the sheltered situation of the place, and the luxuriant growth of fuchsias and other plants, upon the sweets of whose flowers they feed. Here, however, one of the same species was seen sporting about in a most exposed place and during the falling of a snow shower, a proof of the hardy character of this little bird, which, if it does migrate upon the approach of winter to a warmer clime, lin- gers, at least, as long as it possibly can. ‘This was the middle of April, the winter had, in fact, already commenced, and all the mountains around us were clothed with snow, while the ground was also coated with the same dazzling covering. Mr. Graves intended to ascend the Mountain de la Cruz; but a heavy fall of snow prevented the attempt, and we lost the oppor- tunity of obtaining a round of angles from that elevation, which would have materially assisted our operations. We should also have obtained a bird’s-eye view of the Barbara Channel and the Sounds on the opposite side of the Strait, whose extent and nature we did not know ; for Cordova’s notice of San Simon’s Bay, and a deep inlet which exists to the westward of it, is very unsatisfactory. There were no signs of a recent visit from the Fuegians, though at the entrance of the cove we found three or four wigwams in good repair; whence it seems probable, that the place is one of their frequent haunts. When the Beagle came here last year, some station staves were left standing; but, before her return, every one had been removed; and when Captain Stokes went down the Barbara Channel, to the relief (e) Or the animal called by Molina ‘ Huemul.’—R. F. April 1828. FUEGIANS. 135 of the Saxe Cobourg’s crew, those staves were seen in the pos- session of the Indians. A fine morning (11th) induced us to leave this quiet ancho- rage, to examine the openings of the south shore; and in the afternoon, the anchor was dropped in a convenient place, on the west side of the western inlet, named by us Warrington Cove. While crossing the bay from Point Elvira, the north extremity of Cayetano Island, several ‘ smokes’ were observed on the low land, at the bottom of the inlet; and after we anchored two canoes visited us, containing six men, four women, and two or three children. They approached very cautiously, and could not be induced to come alongside. At last the men landed, and invited us to communicate with them. I therefore went on shore with two or three officers, and remained with them half an hour, during which they gradually lost the distrust they had at first evinced ; but each man still carried a number of pebbles in the corner of his wrapper, ready to repel any attack we might make upon them; from the knowledge we have since obtained of their character, I think it probable that they had lately committed some act of aggression on a seal- ing-vessel, and were afraid of retaliation. Our conduct tended to assure them of our friendship ; and, shortly after we left the shore, they came alongside in their canoes, and were very fami- liar, eagerly bartering their necklaces and baskets. In their way to us they had probably landed their more valuable goods, such as otter and seal-skins, as well as their weapons and dogs, without which they never go far. The natives of this part are considered by the sealers to be the most mischievously inclined of any in the Strait, or Tierra del Fuego. The appearance of our visitors was certainly against them; but they did not commit themselves during our two or three days’ communication, by any act which could make us complain, or cause suspicion of their honesty and friendship. We, however, kept too good a look-out, to enable them to take advantage of our seeming good-nature. Among bushes behind the high beach were three wigwams, but the Indians had no intention of remaining with us for the 136 GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. April 1828. night. They went away, to our great satisfaction, at an early hour, and returned to the bottom of the sound, where a large party of their countrymen was assembled. ‘Their departure enabled us to look round, in the vicinity of our anchorage, and examine its productions, which differed in no way from those of other parts of the coast. Its geological structure is, however, different: the rocks are greenstone, or granite, without slate. Mount Maxwell, rising immediately over the cove, is the termi- nation of a rocky mountain range, whose summits are crowned with snow. The verdant sides of the hill, interspersed at inter- vals with large masses of bare rock, produced, from a distance, rather a pleasing effect ; but, upon examination, the verdure was found to consist principally of moss, or a stunted vegeta- tion, covering a soft and swampy soil. ‘The upper portions of the mount are so precipitous as not to be easily reached; and, indeed, many parts rise with a perpendicular ascent for more than a hundred feet. On the south side of Mount Maxwell is Smyth Inlet, which contains anchorage on the north shore, particularly one in Earle Cove; but in the centre the water is deep, and on that account, it is not an inviting place for a ship, During Mr. Graves’s absence in Smyth Harbour, I examined the coast as far as Cape Edgeworth, where I obtained an exten- sive set of bearings. The afternoon was particularly favourable for the purpose, the snow-capped mountains of the north shore were perfectly distinct ; and among them was a very high one, shaped like a Highland target, the peak of the mountain answering to the central spike of the shield. We never after- wards saw it, nor could I, on this occasion, fix its position better, than by estimating its distance. The rock is chiefly greenstone, accompanied by considerable masses of granite. A little islet, off Dighton Cove, is composed of granite, of a lamelliform structure. Mr. Graves brought me a specimen of lamelliform granite attached to a mass of greenstone. The Indians visited us every day, their number being gene- rally from twelve to sixteen, of which five or six only were men, the rest were women, and children of all ages. One of the latter could not have been more than three weeks old ; yet the April 1828. FUEGIAN CANOES. 137 mother, apparently about sixteen years of age, was always occu~ pied in the laborious employment of paddling the canoes. The child was secured in the mother’s lap, with its head on her bo- som, by a mantle, which was drawn tightly round both mother and child. Their canoes were similar to those of the eastern parts of the Strait, about ten feet long, holding four or five grown persons and two or three children, besides their dogs, imple- ments, and weapons: they are formed of bark, and kept in shape by wooden cross supports secured to the gunwale, which is lined by along, slender pole. They are divided into three compartments, the foremost occupying about one-third of the length, contains the spears, placed ready for immediate use ; in the second are the grown persons, with the fire-place between them, the men sitting between the fire-place and the spears, to be ready to use them upon the approach of seals or por- poises; on the opposite side of the fire-place are seated the women who paddle the canoe, in which the men sometimes as- sist, when great expedition is necessary. Behind the women, in the third division, are the elder children and the dogs, the younger children bemg generally stowed away in the women’s laps, for the sake of mutual warmth. ‘The fire is made upon a layer of clay, several inches thick, at the bottom of the canoe ; and above the fire, across the gunwales, are laid several pieces of half-burnt wood, for fuel. During cur communications with these visitors they con- ducted themselves peaceably, and made no attempt to pilfer, although there was some little roguery displayed by them in barter. One of the men having parted with all his disposable property, tendered one of his daughters, a fine girl of fourteen or fifteen years of age, for some mere trifle, and, being refused, ecame very pressing and importunate to close the bargain for the price that was jestingly offered ; nor was it without diffi- culty that he was convinced we were not in earnest. They were as poor as the rest of their countrymen, very badly clothed, and possessing few skins to barter. Two of them exchanged their otter skin mantles for cotton shirts, which they continued to wear without complaining of cold. 148 FUEGIAN CARVING. April 1828. As their visits lasted all day they always brought their food, consisting of the blubber of seals and porpoises. The method used by them in cutting it up is nearly similar to that adopted by the Esquimaux Indians, as described by Sir Edward Parry in his second voyage, and also resembles the process of the natives of King George’s Sound, which I have described in the account of my survey of Australia (vol. ii. p- 140) : a piece of blubber being held in the left hand, a cor- ner of it is taken between the teeth, and it is then cut by a knife, held underhanded, into strips backward and forward, without passing the instrument entirely through: so that when the operation is finished the piece draws out into a long band, about an inch thick, formed by the connected strips. The whole affair from first to last 1s most offensive to the sight ; and the countenance of the carver is. beyond description, for his eyes being directed to the blubber, squint shockingly, and give his ugly face a hideous appearance. The strip of blubber is next divided among the party, each of whom proceeds to extract its oily juices by drawing it through his teeth and sucking it, after which it is warmed in the fire to facilitate its division into small pieces, which are swallowed or bolted without masti- cation. Morsels of this dainty food were given not only to the elder children, but even to infants at the breast. On the 14th, while preparing to weigh, the Indians came on board and helped to heave in the cable, but without rendering us much real assistance. When the sails were loosed, the women “in the canoes began to chatter and scream for fear we should carry off their friends, and their alarm was no sooner given than the deck was cleared of our visitors, who seemed to be quite as much frightened for their safety as the women were. In a few minutes afterwards we were proceeding to the south- ward, and first tried to anchor in a bay on the south side of Smyth Harbour, but finding the depth too great, I sent Lieut. Graves to sound behind an islet where there were indications of a place of shelter, but he returned unsuccessful. During his absence I went to a very narrow passage, which he had dis- covered, leading to a large channel or sound; but finding it April 1828. BIRDS-—FISH——NARROWS. 139 intricate, I deferred trying to enter with the vessel until a more favourable opportunity should offer, and we returned to the place south of Warrington Cove, called Dighton Bay, where we anchored off a sandy beach in twenty fathoms, and secured the vessel by laying the kedge on the shore. This sandy beach was the first we had found in the eastern part of the Strait. The sand is quartzose, of a white colour, and being a novelty, rendered the place interesting. A stream, supplied by the ravines of Mount Maxwell, runs over the beach into the sea, and from it an abundant supply of excellent water may be obtained without difficulty. We observed no quadrupeds; but, of the feathered tribe, we found woodpeckers, kingfishers, and woodcocks, and in the sheltered nooks several humming-birds were darting about the flowery underwood of berberis, fuchsia, and arbutus. In the tide-way, at the narrow passage, the sea teemed with fish ; over which hovered corvorants and other sea-fowl, preying upon the small fry that were trying to elude their voracious enemies, the porpoises and seals, thousands of which were seen sporting about as we proceeded on our way. Waales were also numerous in the vicinity, probably because of an abundance of the small red shrimp, which constitutes their principal food. I went again to examine the passage, and the tide being against us, we were obliged to pull close to the western shore to benefit by the partial eddies, otherwise we could not have proceeded until the turn of the tide. These narrows, named ‘Shag’ Narrows, from the quantity of birds there so called by seamen, are not a hundred yards wide. ‘The south end is fronted by an island, from whose summit, about four hundred feet high, I hoped to obtain a good view southward, and after passing the narrows we landed and reached the summit. While looking around at the view, and preparing the theodolite, a woodcock started up from the long grass and walked away so leisurely, that Mr. Tarn nearly succeeded in striking it with a stick. This bird afforded us a name for the station, which we found to be at the northern side of a large basin, ten miles wide, and six long, terminated at 140 GLACIERS—AVALANCHES. April 1828. its south end by a channel leading to the open sea, but crowded with islands and rocks. A deep inlet or chasm in the land, at the N.W. corner of this basin, was filled with masses of float- ing ice, broken from an enormous glacier. After obtaining all the bearings and embarking, we pulled three miles to the westward, and took a round of angles at Point Cairncross, the south-west point of Field’s Bay, and again another set at the south head of Icy Sound, near Dinner Cove, where we found a very convenient anchorage for small vessels. Through Icy Sound we found some difficulty in pene- trating, as the channel was much obstructed by ice. Three miles within this sound the rocky shore became more precipitous, and at two miles farther, where the width across was not more than one hundred and fifty yards, the rocks rise perpendicularly on each side to the height of seven or eight hundred feet. Beyond this remarkable part the channel opens out toa basin about half a mile in diameter, bounded by a sloping glacier, from which immense masses of ice broke off frequently, and falling with a noise like the discharge of a ship’s broadside, threw up the foaming water with terrific violence. As we entered the basin, we were startled by a sudden roar, occasioned by the fall of one of these avalanches, followed by echoes which reverberated round the basin and among the mountains. We remained for half an hour afterwards waiting for another fall, but were not gratified. Several were heard at a distance, probably high up the sides of the glacier. The examination of Icy Sound occupied us until dark, when we returned to the schooner. During our absence, Indians had again visited the Adelaide, the greater number of whom were strangers. We had also seen a party in a canoe close to Mount Woodcock, who were strik- ing seal, and too intent upon their object to pay much attention to any thing else. On the 16th, the term of our absence having expired, we left Dighton Bay on our return: at night we anchored in St. Nicholas Bay, and the day after arrived at Port Famine. April 1828. NATIVES—CLIMATE. 141 Natives had discovered and visited the ship while I was away, but Lieut. Wickham did not encourage them to remain ; and two or three attempts to pilfer being detected, they were treated with very little ceremony ; so finding their company was not desired, they went across the Strait to Lomas Bay, where for several days afterwards the smoke of their fires was seen. They were the same Indians whom we had met at Port San Antonio. That these Indians should be received so coolly, may seem to have been impolitic on our side, when it is considered that cur smaller vessels and boats might be met with, and their crews ill-treated by way of retaliation. It was, how- ever, time that they should know our superiority ; for, of late, several very treacherous attacks had been made by them on sealing vessels, and this party was the most forward and inso- lent we had seen. One of them was teazing several of the men to box, an accomplishment he had probably learnt from the crews of sealing vessels; among others, he fixed upon the serjeant of marines, who very unceremoniously pushed him over the side, and made him return to his canoe, which he resented by pushing off from the ship’s side, and throwing a stone at the serjeant, who was standing at the gangway. As it missed him, and did no harm, no notice was taken of his mis- chief. We afterwards heard that the same party had visited Bougainville Harbour, where the Adeona was at anchor ; but as Mr. Low neither gave them encouragement to remain, nor permitted them to go on board his brig, they very soon went away. The difference between the climates of the western and'east- ern portions of the Strait was very striking. To the westward the country, being principally clothed with evergreens, such as the smooth-leaved beech, and Winter’s-bark, with an underwood of arbutus and berberis, seems to possess a constant verdure, nor until the snow covers all, does it assume any thing hke the appearance of winter. To the eastward, evergreens are less common, their place being occupied by the beech (Fagus Ant- arctica), whose leaves fall very early. Snow had also begun to cover the lower grounds, giving signs of winter. April termi- 142 WINTER—ADELAIDE SAILS. May 1828. nated with finer weather than we had experienced for some weeks, but May set in with north-easterly winds and much rain, succeeded by a heavy fall of snow. ‘“‘ Tristis hyems montes niveo velamine vestit.”’ As yet the thermometer had not been very low. On one or two occasions it had fallen during the night to 28°, but gene- rally it ranged between 45° and 38°. The Adelaide was again despatched on the 30th April, to carry on an examination of the openings on each side of Caye- tano Island; but she returned on the 2lst of May, with the disagreeable intelligence of having had her only serviceable boat stolen by the Indians. ‘This was a serious loss, not only on account of so much time being thrown away, but also because we had no other boat to substitute for her. To pre- vent delay, I sent to Mr. Low, at Bougainville Harbour, requesting that he would sell one of his boats; but he was himself so badly off, from similar losses, that he could only assist us by lending one for a few weeks, and as it was the only boat he possessed, it could not be spared to go far from his vessel. I, therefore, despatched Mr.Graves, in the Adelaide, to Bougainville Harbour, to employ himself in examining the coast thence to Cape Froward, and in the mean time began to build a whale-boat, to be ready for the Adelaide’s use as soon as winter had passed over; for, from Mr. Graves’s report of the state of the climate to the westward, very little could be done during the winter months. The following is Lieut. Graves’s account of the loss of his boat :—Upon leaving Port Famine he proceeded at once to Port Gallant, and surveyed Cordes Bay; after which he crossed the Strait to St. Simon’s Bay, and anchored in Millar Cove, on its western side, immediately to the north of Port Langara, from which it is only separated by a narrow neck of land. The Adelaide remained there at anchor while Mr. Graves visited the different parts of the bay. Her presence had attracted a large party of Indians, who, occupying several wigwams near the entrance of the cove, paid daily visits to May 1828. ADELAIDE LOSES A BOAT. 143 our people, and were apparently very familiar and well-dis- posed. But they had cast a longing eye on the whale-boat, which, when equipped for service, contained many things very useful to them, and they laid a plan to carry her off, which succeeded. One evening she was prepared for going away at an early hour the following day, and, to save time, every thing that might be required was placed in her, and she was made fast for the night. Two or three Indians were then on board, and observing what was done, laid their plan, and at sunset took their leave as usual. The night was pitchy dark, and at nine o’clock the boat was missed from alongside. The alarm was given, and instant search made at the wigwams of the Indians, who had all decamped, without leaving the least trace of themselves or the boat. The ‘ painter, or rope by which she had been fastened to the vessel, had been cut through with some sharp instrument, most probably a knife, which our people had sharpened for them on the grindstone that very day. Every possible search was made next morning, but without success; the boat that was left was one which could not be used with any advantage, and Mr. Graves returned to Port Famine. Vexatious as the accident was, I could not blame him for what had occurred, for no one had suspicions of such conduct from the Indians, who, on all other occasions, had kept at a distance from us after night-fall. The boat was properly secured alongside, and the night was so cold that no person would have thought the Indians would expose themselves to such a temperature (28°); for they must have swum alongside to cut her adrift, and then must have towed her away very gradually, to prevent the theft being discovered, for there were _ ‘two persons walking the deck at the time. Mr. Tarn, who accompanied Mr. Graves on this occasion, brought me a very fine sea-eagle (Polyborus Nove Zealan- die), and some other birds, and a specimen from a shrub which. we had not before observed, a species of Desfontanea. In order to prevent a similar loss in future, the Adelaide 144 FLOODS—LIGHTNING—SCURVY. June 1898. was forthwith fitted with cranks outside, for hoisting up her boats when in harbour. Winter advanced rapidly ; the ground was constantly covered with snow, from one to two feet deep, and every night more fell. In the early part of June we had a gale of wind from the N.W., which flooded the low ground upon which our tents stood; but fortunately the large tent had been accidentally placed on a higher part, and escaped. This flood filled, and, of course, spoiled the water in all the ponds about the tents; and we had afterwards to procure our supplies from a considerable distance. On the 8th of June much lightning was observed to the northward, and repeated rumbling noises were heard, which con- tinued for long pericds ; one lasted distinctly for the space of twenty minutes. At first, they were thought to be eruptions of some distant volcano; but, from the frequent lightning, they were probably echoes of thunder, reverberating through the deep ravines that intersect the rocky ridges of the Cordillera, from which we were distant at least one hundred and fifty miles. A succession of bad weather followed, during which the baro- meter fluctuated rapidly. On the 14th, the mercury fell to 28. 17. inches, after which it gradually rose, with fine settled weather, until it reached 30. 50., when bad weather again set in. The people at the tents experienced another inundation. Had the water risen six inches more, it would have carried every thing away ; and as the wind was blowing dead upon the shore, while a heavy surf was beating upon the beach, we could have rendered them very little assistance from the ship. The severity of the weather brought a most disagreeable accompaniment. Scurvy appeared, and increased ; while the accidental death of a seaman, occasioned by falling down a hatchway, followed by the decease of two others, and also of Mr. Low, of the Adeona, whose body was brought to me for burial, tended to create a despondency amongst the crew that I could in no way check. The monotony of their occupations, the chilling and gloomy appearance of the country, and the severity of the climate, all tended to increase the number of the June1828. scurvy —ADELAIDE—CAPE FROWARD. 145 sick, as well as the unfavourable symptoms of their disease. The Beagle’s term of absence was, however, drawing to a close, and I caused a rumour to be spread, that upon her appearance we should quit Port Famine. To give a semblance of reality to this report, the topmasts were ordered to be fidded, and the ship otherwise prepared for sea, which had a manifest effect upon the scorbutic, of whom several were in a bad stage of that horrid disease, and many others were just attacked. We found ourselves now, too, thrown on our own resources for fresh food: scarcely a fish was taken with the hook, and the seine, although frequently shot, never caught anything. Of birds, only a few hawks and small finches were procured, which were all reserved for the sick, the greater number of whom lived on shore, at the tents, where they might walk about, and amuse themselves as they pleased. The Adelaide returned from Bougainville Harbour on the 18th of June, having succeeded in the object for which she was sent. ‘The extremity of Cape Froward, a bluff head, over which is a round-topped hill (precisely the French ‘ Morre’) is what Sarmiento called the Morro de Santa Agueda. Any name given by this excellent old navigator is too classical and valuable to be omitted; therefore, while the extremity itself may retain the modern appellation of Cape Froward, the moun- tain by which it is formed may still be allowed to keep his distinction. Behind it, the land rises to a higher ridge, the edge of which is remarkably serrated, and probably of a slaty character. The specimens procured from the Cape were clay-slate, much intermixed with iron pyrites, and crossed by small veins of white quartz. Of the anchorages examined by Mr. Graves, Bougainville Harbour, better known to sealers by the name of Jack’s Cove, or Harbour, is the most sheltered. It is surrounded on all sides by high precipitous hills, thickly clothed with trees. The depth is moderate, and the water so beautifully clear, that the anchors, and even shells and stones, were distinctly seen upon the bottom. It was here that Bougainville procured wood for the use of the settlement. VOL. I. L 146 BOUGAINVILLE HARBOUR. June 1828. at the Falkland Islands. Captain Stokes says of this place: “‘ After seeing the abundant supplies of timber which Freshwater Bay and Port Famine afford, I had shared in the surprise which Byron expresses, that any one should have come so far up the Strait to get it ; but on examining the spot, I found that a hap- pier selection could not have been made. It isa little cove, just round the eastern point of the Bay of San Nicolas, about a hundred yards wide and three times as long. Here, moored to the shore, a ship may lie in eight fathoms, perfectly sheltered from any wind, the water as smooth as in a wet-dock. Shapely trees, of all dimensions, are growing within a few yards of the shore; and the wood, when felled, may be hoisted on board from the beach, by tackles from the yard-arms. Here, too, with very little trouble, a supply of water may be got from the many streams that make their way through the underwood which skirts the cove. As we pulled up this sequestered nook, the unusual sound of our oars and voices put to flight multi- tudes of birds, and the surface of the water was broken by the jumping of fine fish. Some very eatable geese were shot. Our stay was too short to admit of hauling the seine ; but my boat’s crew contrived to half-fill the boat with excellent muscles and limpets, which are found here in great plenty.” The geological character of the coast between Cape St. Isidro and San Nicolas Bay is clay-slate ; near the beach, however, this rock is not visible, since it is there covered with a kind of breccia of rounded pebbles, in an indurated sandy rock, of green colour. The pebbles are principally of slate; but some were found to be of granite and other quartzose rock, perhaps green- stone. One of the headlands, called by M. Bougainville Cape Re- marquable, was examined by Mr. Graves for fossil shells, of which the French navigator speaks. Half the rock was beaten to pieces, without detecting anything like organic remains. Living shells were in the greatest abundance about the base of the Cape, but that is the case every where. The species gene- rally found are limpets and muscles, but with little variety and no novelty. June 18298. INDIANS CROSS THE STRAIT. 147 On the 21st of June, after a heavy north-east gale, we had an unusually fine day. The hills at the bottom of Magdalen Channel were more distinct than we had ever noticed them, and Mount Sarmiento was particularly clear; indeed its out- line was so sharply defined, that the distance did not appear to be more than ten miles. This extraordinary transparency of the air was at first considered a presage of wet weather; yet the clear and sharp appearance of the distant land was unlike that which usually precedes a fall of rain. The long series of rainy weather we had experienced made us look for a geod result from such an unusual atmosphere, and we were not deceived. The following day our hopes were still further confirmed by seeing three Indian canoes, coming across the Strait, towards us, from Lomas Bay, which they would not have attempted had they not been sure of its continuing fine; for their canoes are ill adapted to encounter the short cross sea found during bad weather in mid-channel of the Strait. Although the presence of the natives did not in general please me, because it naturally put a stop to all work ; yet, on this occasion it was agreeable, as it tended in some measure to enliven the monotonous manner in which we passed our days. Upon reaching the bay, the Indians did not approach the ship, but paddled into the coves under Point Santa Anna, where our boat was employed watering. Mr. Graves went to them, to prevent mischief, and found they were the same party who had before visited us. When our boats returned, they paddled over to the wigwam at the head of the port, about a quarter of a mile beyond our tents, and began to repair it, and by sunset were housed and sheltered for the night. We had, however, so lately experienced their treacherous disposition, that no confi- dence was placed in appearances. Sentinels were posted at the tents, to give the alarm, should any of them approach ; and at eight o’clock a volley of musketry was fired, by way of intimi- dation, and to impress them with the idea that we kept a watch upon their movements, and were prepared. While the wigwams were repairing, a few of the Indians visited our tents ; but were not allowed to pass within a rope 12 oo 148 VISIT OF FUEGIANS. June 1898. that, by my orders, was stretched around our property, a re- striction which they did not attempt to evade. At sunset all were told to go away, and they immediately, as well as cheer- fully, complied. The next morning, and indeed throughout the whole day, the neighbourhood of the wigwams exhibited the appearance of a fair. I visited them, and found that they had not only re- paired an old wigwam, but erected another. Both together contained the whole party, consisting of twenty-six individuals, among whom were an old man, and two old women. ‘They had brought over a collection of baskets, bows and arrows, stone heads of knives, &e. to sell to our people, who had always shown eagerness to possess these curiosities. The knife-heads were made generally of pitch-stone; but the greater number were of broken glass bottles, which they had collected when they visited us last year. A few strings of beads purchased all their riches ; after which they sold their dogs, and Mr. Graves procured one of them for a knife and a string of beads. It was a remarkably fine animal, and showed great reluctance to be handled by our people, several of whom were bitten in their attempts to take him to the boat. At night one of the canoes was despatched to collect shell- fish, probably sea-eggs, from the reef of Rocky Bay. The fol- lowing morning all their goods were embarked, and then they paddled their canoes to the beach, near the tents, where some of their men landed. They had nothing to offer in exchange for several things which tempted them, and were beginning to grow troublesome. One of them, the individual who threw a stone at the sergeant, persisting to pass the boundary that was marked upon the ground, which no one of them had before presumed to do, was pushed back by the sentinel; upon which he ran to his canoe and took out several spears, doubt- less intending to try to force a passage; but the appearance of two or three muskets brought him to his senses, and the spears were returned to the canoe; after which he became familiar, and apparently friendly. ‘This affair, however, was soon followed by their departure, which gave me much satis- e June 1828. SEALING VESSELS—SCURVY. 149 faction. They went southward, landing for the night in Voces Bay, and the following day went to the Adeona, in Bougain- ville Harbour, where they remained some days. The day after the Indians left us, a boat came from the Adeona, to acquaint us that, in a day or two, she and her companions, the Uxbridge and Mercury, intended to leave the Strait for the Falkland Islands ; upon which I prepared letters for England, and a report of my proceedings for the Secretary -of the Admiralty. The ships passed by on the 30th, and took my letters. This last month (June) set in with snow or rain, which con- tinued until the 11th, when the weather assumed a very threa- tening appearance. On the 14th the barometer fell to 29. 27, and the wind blew a hard gale from N.E.; but in the after- noon it veered round to $.W., and the mercury rose rapidly. A gale from $.W. followed, and then to the end of the month we had a series of moderate weather, but much snow. 'Themean tem- perature for June was 32°,97 the range being between 19°,2 and 48°,7. July commenced with an unusually low temperature and a high barometer; the former, on the 4th was 12°,2, and the lat- ter, at the same time, at 30,5 inches, having risen since the 14th of June 1.82 of an inch. After this we had a few mild and fine days, but paid dearly for them; a northerly gale set in, bringing with it unwholesome damp weather, m which the temperature rose to between 35° and 42°, and melted much of the snow that had covered the ground, quite to the water’s edge, during the last two months. Our sick-list, particularly of cases of scurvy, increased so much, during this damp, trying weather, that I determined upon sending the Adelaide to the northward, to procure a supply of fresh meat from the Pata- gonians ; and, at the same time, to survey that part of the Strait lying between Cape Negro and the Second Narrow. Lieutenants Graves and Wickham, and Mr.'Tarn, went upon this service, the latter being most anxious to procure some change of diet for the sick under his care, for some of whom he was much alarmed. The appearance and severity of this dis- 150 ADELAIDE SENT FOR MEAT. July 1828. ease, although every precaution had been used, and subsequent attention paid to their diet, are not easy to account for: fresh provisions, bread baked on board, pickles, cranberries, large quantities of wild celery, preserved meats and soups, had been abundantly supplied ; the decks were kept well-aired, dry, and warm, but all to no purpose; these precautions, perhaps, checked the disease for a time; but did not prevent it, as had been fully expected. The Adelaide sailed on the 16th of July, with every pros- pect of fine weather. The same evening, an American sealing schooner anchored near us, on her way to Staten Land. She had entered the Straits by Cutler and Smyth Channels, and in forty-eight hours arrived at Port Famine. After obtaining some trifling assistance from our forge, she sailed. On the 25th, three new cases of scurvy appeared, one being the assistant-surgeon, which increased our sick-list to fourteen. Feeling the necessity of doing something, I ordered the hands to be turned up, ‘ Prepare ship for sea !’ No sooner had the words escaped the boatswain’s lips, than all was life, energy, and delight. The preliminary preparations were made, and every one looked forward with pleasure to the change, except myself. I had hoped to pass the twelve months at Port Famine, with the intention of completing a meteorological journal, for which this place afforded peculiar advantages. My plan was, on the Beagle’s return, to despatch her and the schooner along the West Coast, and join them in the Adventure at Childe. As our departure was now supposed to depend on the Beagle’s arrival, every eye was on the stretch to watch for her, and every morning some one of our party ascended the heights, to look out. On the 27th she was seen, beating up from the south- ward ; but as the wind was contrary, she did not anchor in the bay until the evening. Her return was greeted with three most hearty cheers; but on passing under our stern, Lieutenant Skyring informed me that Captain Stokes was confined to his cabin by illness, and could not wait on me. I therefore went to the Beagle, and found Captain Stokes looking very ill, and in Jow spirits. He expressed himself much distressed by the hard- July 1828. RETURN OF THE BEAGLE. 151 ships the officers and crew under him had suffered ; and I was alarmed at the desponding tone of his conversation. He told me that the Beagle had been up the western coast as high as Cape Tres Montes, in latitude 47°, had surveyed the Gulf of Penas and other portions of the coast, particularly Port Henry, at Cape Three Points, the entrance of the Gulf of Trinidad, and Port Santa Barbara, at the north end of Campana Island. During the survey of the Gulf of Penas thev had experienced very severe weather, both stormy and wet, during which the Beagle’s crew were incessantly employed, and had consequently suffered greatly. Captain Stokes seemed not to have spared himself. He appeared much gratified by my visiting him, and before we parted he was for a time restored to his usual energy, detailing the circumstances of the voyage, and con. versing upon the plan of our future operations with considerable animation. The return of the Beagle cheered our ship’s company, and on the 30th the Adelaide came back, with a large quantity of guanaco meat, which had been procured from the Patagonian Indians at Peckett’s Harbour. When the Adelaide anchored there, about thirty natives appeared on the shore. Mr. Tarn landed, and communicated our wants, saying that he would give tobacco and knives for as much guanaco meat as they could procure ; with them was the Fuegian, who seemed to be a leading man, and to have become one of the most active of the party. He was the principal spokes- man, and upon commencing thehunt he pointed to thesnow upon the ground, and called it *‘ bueno’ (good), because it would show the traces of the animals, and the direction they had taken. Mr.Wickham thus described to me the manner in which they hunted : ‘Two men ascended a hill, placed themselves one at each end of its summit, and stood motionless for some time, on the look-out. As soon as guanacoes were seen, their position and movements were communicated, by signs, to the men in the valley, who were thus enabled to approach their game un- awares. ‘The guanacoes are taken with the bolas, which entangle their legs and throw them down. As soon as they are killed, 152 CAPTAIN STOKES VERY ILL. July 1828. they are skinned and cut up. The first night seven hundred pounds of meat were brought, and two thousand and forty-six pounds were obtained in a few days. This ample change of diet inspired me with the hope that our sick, at least those affected by scurvy, would recover, and that after another large supply, which we now knew how to obtain, we might be enabled to prosecute our voyage as was first intended. All hands were therefore allowed fresh meat for a week, and the residue was placed at the disposal of the surgeon, for the use of the sick, but all ineffectually ; the list still increased, and Lieutenant Wickham, with a vio- lent cold, and Mr. Rowlett, with scurvy, were added to it. The assistant-surgeon’s became the worst case of scurvy on board ; and our people, finding that the preparations for quit- ting the place were not going on, began to despond again. Captain Stokes was anxious to prepare his vessel for another cruize, being very averse to giving up our plans and returning to Monte Video, since he thought the crews, from utter disgust at the privations and hardships they had endured, would not be persuaded to go on another voyage; but that if they were to go to Childe or Valparaiso, to refresh, they might recover their strength and spirits, and be willing to renew the survey; which, however, he himself seemed to dread, for he never men- tioned the subject without a shudder. He was evidently much excited, and suspicions arose in my mind that all was not quite right with him. I endeavoured to prevail on him to give his people a longer rest, but he was the more anxious to make preparations. On the 31st July he sent an application for pro- visions, and in the evening I received a note from him, which was written in his former usual flow of spirits. The officers, however, knew more of the diseased state of his mind than I did ; and it was owing to a hint given to me, that I desired Mr. Tarn to communicate with Mr. Bynoe, and report to me whether Captain Stokes’s health was sufficiently restored to enable him to commence another cruize. This was on the Ist of August. The provisions had been sent, in compliance with his application, and the surgeons were on board the Adventure, Aug. 1828. CAPTAIN STOKES’S DEATH. 153 considering upon their report, which was, as I afterwards found, very unfavourable, when a boat came from the Beagle, with the dreadful intelligence that Captain Stokes, in a momen- tary fit of despondency, had shot himself. The surgeons instantly repaired on board, and finding him alive, had recourse to every means in their power, but without hope of saving his life. During the delirium that ensued, and lasted four days, his mind wandered to many of the circum- stances, and hair-breadth escapes, of the Beagle’s cruize. The following three days he recovered so much as to be able to see me frequently ; and hopes were entertained by himself, but by no one else, that he would recover. He then became gradually worse, and after lingering in most intense pain, expired on the morning of the 12th. Thus shockingly and prematurely perished an active, intel- ligent, and most energetic officer, in the prime of life. The severe hardships of the cruize, the dreadful weather expe- rienced, and the dangerous situations in which they were so constantly exposed—caused, as I was afterwards informed, such intense anxiety in his excitable mind, that it became at times so disordered, as to cause the greatest apprehension for the consequences. On the return of the Beagle he got better ; and the officers were so sanguine in hoping for his complete restoration to health, on account of his progressive recovery, that nothing which had transpired was communicated to me until after his decease. , His remains were interred at our burial-ground, with the honours due to his rank, and a tablet was subsequently erected to his memory. CHAPTER X. Account of the Beagle’s cruize—Borja Bay—Cape Quod—Stuart Bay —Cape Notch—Remarks on weather, and errors of Chart—Evan- gelists—Santa Lucia—Madre de Dios—Gulf of Trinidad—Port Henry —Puma’s track — Humming-birds—Very bad weather—Campana Island — Dangers — Gale — Wet— Sick — Santa Barbara —Wager’s beam — W igwams— Guaianeco Islands—Cape Tres Montes—St. Paul’s —Port Otway—Hoppner Sound—Cape Raper. Tne followmg account of the Beagle’s cruize is drawn up from Captain Stokes’s unfinished journal, and from detached memoranda, which were found amongst his papers. It will be recollected that, on my departure from Port Famine, in the Adelaide, in the. month of March, to survey portions of the southern side of the Strait, I left instructions with Captain Stokes to proceed in the execution of his orders as soon as the Beagle was ready. The details of those orders it is unnecessary to repeat here, as they were performed to my entire satisfaction; it will be merely requisite, as briefly as possible, to follow him through a most arduous and distressing service. It is the sequel that embitters the record. ‘*On the 18th of March, I sailed from Port Famine, and next day reached Port Gallant. ‘¢On the 23d, we anchored in the little cove called Borja Bay, which, though very confined, and rather difficult of access, suited our purpose extremely well. (See Sailing Direc- tions). While there we measured the height of one of the prin- cipal hills in the neighbourhood, and found it 1,800 feet. ‘Bad weather detained us until the 26th, when we passed Cape Quod, and reached Stuart Bay. Many places were left unexamined, because my object was to hasten westward before the year was farther advanced. “(27th.) We left Stuart Bay, and continued our progress to the westward, with westerly winds, thick weather, and rain. March 1828. CAPE NOTCH—REMARKS. 156 The shores of the Straits were seldom visible to us, from a thick mist with which they were clouded: it is, however, a bold coast on each side, otherwise the Strait would be utterly unnavigable in such weather. Near Cape Notch the mountains spire up into peaks of great height, singularly serrated, and connected by barren ridges. About their bases there are gene- rally some green patches of jungle; but, upon the whole, nothing can be more sterile and repulsive than the view. This afternoon we passed Playa Parda, and in the evening anchored in Marian Cove. “In the course of the next day the wind freshened to a strong and squally gale from the W.N.W., with much rain ; the weather was so thick that we could scarcely make out the coast. In this kind of weather, the lower parts of the shore are screened from view by mist, and the upper ones are seen looming through it in lofty masses, in a manner which would lead a stranger to believe that the ship was completely envi- -roned with islands. *¢ In the evening we anchored in the little cove called Half Port Bay, and next morning resumed our daily struggle against wind, tide, and weather. *‘ Wecrossed the mouth of a deep sound on the north shore, * where no tide or current was remarked: the delineation of the coast about this point is particularly defective in the old charts ; fortunately, however, for the navigator, he has here to deal with shores where the omission of a whole island, or even the addition of a few that do not exist, is of less consequence to his safety than the exact limit of one sand-bank in other parts of the world. This night we anchored in Upright Bay, which, though affording excellent shelter from the prevailing winds, is bad with a southerly one; as, from the steepness of the bottom requiring a vessel to anchor close to the shore, sufficient scope is not left for veering cable. ‘¢ Sheltered by the high land under which we were anchored, * Afterwards examined by Capt. Fitz Roy. It was called Xaultegua by Sarmiento, who very correctly describes it.—(Sarmiento’s Voyage, p- 208.) 156 EVANGELIST ISLES. March 1828. with the exception of occasional gusts down the ravines and sounds, we had the wind light at W.S.W.; but the rapid travelling of the scud over-head showed that the usual weather prevailed. We weighed early next morning (80th), and by noon had reached so far to the westward that the easternmost of the round islands in Cape Tamar Bight bore north about two miles. By nightfall we were off Cape Cortado; but the weather seeming settled and the wind drawing to the south- ward, I resolved to keep under weigh, and try to get out to sea that night. Circumstances favoured us; the weather was fine, the moon remained unclouded, and the wind held at $.S.W. An hour after midnight Cape Pillar bore W.S.W., distant about two miles, and thence we shaped our course for the Evangelists, which we passed at the distance of a mile. “‘ The Evangelists, as they are called by the early Spanish voyagers, or as they were afterwards named (1670) by Sir John Narborough, the Isles of Direction,* are a group of four rocky islets, and some detached rocks and breakers, occupying altogether a space of three miles; they are exceedingly rugged and barren, and suited only to afford a resting-place for seals and oceanic birds. From the heavy sea prevalent there, and the raging surf that generally breaks around, landing on them can be rarely practicable ; yet sealers effect it. The mate of a sealing vessel told me that he had landed on the largest in a whale-boat, and killed several thousand seals. The Evangelists are of sufficient height to be seen in clear weather from a ship’s deck, at the distance of six or seven leagues, but the superior elevation of the coast on both sides will usually render it visible, before these islands can be observed. ‘“‘ Immediately on rounding the Evangelists a cape was dis- tinguished, appearing to terminate the northern coast line, which we made out to be ‘ Cape Isabel’ of the Spanish charts. It is a steep, rocky promontory of great height, having at its base some detached columnar masses of rock, and at its sum- mit a peak, and a serrated ridge ; off it is a steep-sided island, * Because they formed a capital leading mark for the Strait of Ma- galhaens. March 1828. saANTA LUCIA—MADRE DE DIOS. 157 which proved to be that (Beagle Island) of which Lieut. Sky- ring and I took the bearing last year, when we were on the summit of Cape Victory. ‘¢ Northward of Cape Victory the land forms a deep bight, of which Cape Santa Lucia is the north-eastern headland. The coast in the interval is exceedingly rugged and mountainous. Cape Santa Lucia may be distinguished by a portion of flat table-land, about one-third of the altitude of the mountain from which it proceeds, and terminating at its outer face with a perpendicular precipice. ‘‘'The coast between Capes Isabel and Santa Lucia is dan- gerous to approach nearer than ten miles, for there are within that distance many sunken rocks, on which the sea only occa- sionally breaks. Some of these breakers were seen to seaward of us, as we proceeded along the coast, at the distance of five or six miles. When off Santa Lucia, whales were very numer- ous around us. “‘'The general aspect of this portion of the coast is similar to that of the most dreary parts of the Magalhaenic regions: bare, rugged, rocky, and mountainous, intersected by inlets, and bordered by islets, rocks, and breakers. ‘‘'The information we possessed respecting the prevalent winds on this coast was very scanty; yet, since all we could procure represented them as prevailing from the northward and north-westward, I considered it advisable to take advantage of the present southerly wind to proceed to the northern part of the coast assigned for our survey, instead of stopping to explore the bight between Cape Isabel and Cape Santa Lucia. ‘«‘ From the bearings at sunset,* we ran along the land with bright moonlight, sounding every hour ; and at daylight were about ten miles from the Island of Madre de Dios. ““We closed the land and proceeded to the northward, keep- ing at a distance of about three miles off shore, sounding * Beagle Island N. 71°. E., Cape Isabel N. 32°. E., a remarkable moun- tain in the bight between Cape Santa Lucia and Cape Isabel N. 11°. W. Cape Santa Lucia N. 33°. W.; distance off shore three leagues; and soundings fifty fathoms, sandy bottom. 158 GULF OF TRINIDAD. April 1828. between twenty-eight and thirty-three fathoms, sandy bottom. The weather was clear and fine, and we were enabled to make observations, and take the bearings and angles, necessary for laying down the coast satisfactorily. ‘¢ At noon we were in latitude 50° 12’ south, and in the meridian of Cape Tres Puntas, between which and a cape bearing from us N. 13° F. (magnetic), distant eight miles, there was evidently an inlet: this cape is marked on the chart as Cape William. The character of the land is the same with that which we had hitherto passed, bare, rugged, rocky moun tains, with peaks, and sharply serrated ridges. From daylight to noon we had run twenty-one miles along the coast ; in that interval only one inlet was seen, which was in the latitude of 50° 27’ south, agreeing well with the ‘ West Channel’ of the ‘Spanish chart. It was four miles wide at its mouth, and appeared to follow a winding course to the eastward. The land of Cape Tres Puntas curved in to the eastward, until it closed with Cape William ; at dusk we were abreast of Cape William, and two leagues off shore, where we lay-to till daylight, as I wished to examine the inlet between it and Cape Tres Puntas, which subsequently proved to be Sarmiento’s Gulf of Trinidad. The old navigator thus describes its discovery : “«¢ At daylight, 17th of March, 1579, in the name of the most holy Trinity, we saw land, bearing E.S.E., ten leagues distant, towards which we steered to explore it. At mid-day, being near the land, we observed the latitude 494°, but Her- nando Alonzo made it 49° 9’. In approaching the shore we saw a great bay and gulf, which trended deeply into the land towards some snowy mountains. To the south there was a high mountain, with three peaks, wherefore Pedro Sarmiento named the bay ‘ Golfo de la Sanctisima Trenidad.’ The highest land of the three peaks was named ‘ Cabo de Tres Puntas 6 montes.’ This island is bare of vegetation, and at the water-side is low and rugged, and lined with breakers ; on the summit are many white, grey, and black-coloured portions of ground, or rock. Six leagues to the north of Cape Tres Puntas is the opposite side of the gulf, where it forms a large high mountain, backed April 1828. PORT HENRY—SITUATION. 159 to the north by low land, and fronted by many islands. This high mountain, which appears to be an island from the offing, was called ‘ Cabo Primero.’ ’* ‘The following night was clear, and the wind moderate from S.E., but in the course of next morning it shifted to N.E., with squalls, rain, and thick weather ; we worked into the inlet notwithstanding, and by noon had reached three miles within its S.W. head-land, Cape William, and were abreast of a bay, into which I sent a boat to look for anchorage. On her return we stood into it, and anchored in the excellent harbour, after- wards named Port Henry, where we remained from the 2d to the 5th of April, employed in making a correct survey of the harbour and its adjacencies, and determining the latitude and longitude.+ ‘¢ The inner harbour, distinguished in the plan by the name of *‘ Aid Basin,’ is perfectly land-locked, and sufficiently spa- cious to contain a numerous squadron of the largest ships in twenty fathoms water, over a mud bottom, and as completely sheltered from the effects of wind and sea as in wet-docks. At the south-west side of the basin is a fresh-water lake, which dis- charges itself by a small stream, whence casks might be con- veniently filled by means of canvas hoses, and the shores around have wood for fuel in abundance; but, from the lofty surrounding mountains, some rising almost perpendicularly to an elevation of two thousand feet, the thick clouds with which this basin was generally overhung, and the dense exhalations that arose from it during the rare intervals of sunshine, together with the exceeding prevalence of heavy rain on this coast, this place must be disagreeable and unhealthy. Such objections do not apply to the outer harbour, for while its shores afford shelter, they do not obstruct a free circulation of air. It is sufficiently large to afford convenient and secure anchorage for five or six frigates. ““We hauled the seine with very poor success, as a few smelt only were taken; we had no better luck with our fishing-lines ; * (Sarmiento, p. 65.) + The description of Port Henry is given in our Sailing Directions. 160 PUMA—-HUMMING-BIRDS—woop. April 1828. but the trial might have been more profitable at another season, judging from the number of seals we saw on the rocks off the Port, which live principally upon fish. Muscles, limpets, and sea-eggs abound here, and are good and wholesome of their kind. Birds are few in number, and of the species most common in these regions. No quadruped of any kind was seen; but the purser told me that he had observed, near the sandy beach, traces of a four-footed animal, resembling those of a tiger: he followed them to a cavern, and thence to the jungle. He also said that he had seen several humming-birds. “‘ With the exception of wild celery and the arbutus berry, I know not of any useful vegetable production that this place affords, unless the ‘ Winter’s-bark tree’ may be mentioned. Some coarse grass, fit perhaps for animals, may be there pro- cured. The only signs of inhabitants were some wigwams on the western point, which seemed to have been long forsaken : in their construction they were precisely similar to those erected by the migratory tribes in the Straits of Magalhaens; and the shells of muscles, limpets, and sea-eggs, within and about them, showed that the former tenants of these hovels drew, like the Magalhaenic tribes, a principal part of their subsistence from shell-fish. ; «¢ Around the harbour are granite mountains, perfectly bare at their summits and north-western sides, but the lower parts are thickly covered in sheltered places and ravines, partly with trees, and partly with brushwood: among the trees growing here we observed, as usual, two kinds of beech, a tree like the cypress, but of small size, and the Winter’s-bark. The under- wood is composed of all the various shrubs we had met with in the Straits of Magalhaens; and this brushwood is so thickly spread over the lower parts of the shores of the harbour, that it is only by crawling over it that the distance of a few yards from the rocks can be gained; and being generally of insufhi- cient strength to support a man’s weight, it frequently gives way beneath him, and he is so completely buried, as to make it difficult for him to extricate himself. “‘ Scarcely any of the trees attain a size to render them fit April 1828. SEAL—VERY BAD WEATHER. 161 for any thing but firewood; of those we felled there was scarcely one that was not more or less rotten at the heart, a defect probably caused by the extreme humidity of the climate. ‘“* During our stay, the master, accompanied by our boat- swain’s mate,(f) an experienced sealer, went to take seal on the rocks, and returned in a few hours with some of the inferior sort, called ‘ hair seal,’ which were numerous; but the surf was in most places too heavy to allow them to land without much risk. "he fry cf the young seals we thought extremely good, not exceeded even by the finest lamb’s fry. *¢ On the morning of the 5th we worked to the westward, to clear the land on each side of the inlet; and at sunset, Cape Tres Puntas bore N.b. W.3W., distant two leagues. The northerly breeze, which we had worked with since leaving Port Henry, increased rapidly toa hard gale, and by 8 P.M. we were reduced to the close-reefed main-topsail and recfed foresail. The gale continued with unabated violence during the 6th, 7th, and 8th, from the north, N.W., and S.W., with a confused mountainous sea. Our decks were constantly flooded, and we could rarely show more than the close-reefed main-topsail and reefed foresail. Only two accidents occurred: the little boat which we carried astern was washed away by a heavy sea that broke over us, while hoisting her in-board; and the marine barometer was broken by the violent motion of the vessel. At noon, on the 8th, Cape Corso bore from us, by account, 5.F. (true), distant fifty-five miles. I had tried to gain a wide offing to get a less turbulent sea, and because not even an outline of the sea-coast of Campana Island was drawn in the chart. We had not, during these three days, a glimpse of the sun or of a, star, for it blew a constant gale, accompanied by squalls, thick weather, and rain. According to the time of year, the season of winter had not arrived, but the weather seemed to say it was already come— Sullen and sad, with allit’s rising train Of vapours, clouds, and storms. () Thomas Sorrell, now boatswain of the Beagle (1837). He was boat- swain of the Saxe Cobourg, when wrecked in Fury Harbour.—R. F. VOL. I, M 162 CAMPANA ISLAND—PARALLEL PEAK. April 1828. ‘The wind abated at daylight on the 9th, and drew to the southward, and thence to the 8.E. (the fair weather quarter of this coast). We bore up to make the land, and at about 10 a.m. the ‘loom’ of it was seen from the mast-head. At noon, high mountains were visible from the deck ; our latitude, by obser- vation, was 48° 51’, and our longitude, by chronometer, 00°27 west of Port Henry. No soundings were obtained with one hundred and ten fathoms of line. Hence we steered east (mag- netic) towards a remarkable mountain, which, from our being nearly in the parallel of it at noon, has been marked in the chart as Parallel Peak. The coast we were upon was that of the Island ‘Campana,’ and, in its general appearance, did not differ from that of Madre de Dios. It was late before we got very close to the land; but, for a couple of leagues to the north- ward, and about a league to the southward of the parallel of our latitude at noon, we could distinguish rocks and breakers skirting the coast to a distance of two leagues from the shore. *¢ At dusk we hauled off for the night ; but instead of being able to resume the examination of the coast next morning, we had to encounter another gale of wind from the N.W., which, before noon, reduced us to close-reefed main-topsail and reefed foresail. This gale suddenly subsided in the western quarter, which was singular; for those we have experienced generally commenced at north, thence drew round to the westward, from which point to $.W. they blew with the greatest fury, and hauling to the southward, usually abated to the eastward of south. ‘‘ During the afternoon, we again made the land near Parallel Peak, but could not close it. Next morning (11th), with fine weather, and a fresh breeze at S.W.b. W., we once more saw the land about Parallel Peak ; and when distant from the shore about eight miles, steered N. b. E. along the coast. At noon our latitude was 48° 4'7’. “ Throughout our run along the coast this day, we skirted a number of rocky islets, rocks, and breakers, lying off shore at the distance of three or four miles. Some of the islets were elevated several feet above the surface of the sea; others were April 1828. DANGERS—GALE—WET. 163 a-wash, and there were breakers that showed themselves only occasionally. Along this line the surf beat very heavily, and, outside, a long rolling sea prevailed, in which the ship was very uneasy. “This line of dangers is not altogether continuous; for there is an opening about two miles wide, abreast of Parallel Peak, to the southward of which is a bight, where possibly a harbour may exist ; but, considering the prevalence of heavy westerly gales and thick weather, if there be one, few vessels would venture to run for it; and this line must, I should think, be considered as a barrier that they ought not pass. As seal are found on the rocks, vessels engaged in that trade might not, perhaps, be deterred by these dangers, but every other would give all this extent of coast a wide berth. We ran past the breakers at the distance of about a mile, having rocky soundings, from thirty te twenty-three fathoms. “‘'The termination of the coast line northward was a high, rugged island, with a small peak at the north end. The extre- mity of the main land was rather a high bluff cape, whence the coast extends southward, with craggy, mountainous peaks and ridges, as far as Parallel Peak. At sunset, the N.W. end of Campana bore north (magnetic), distant three leagues, and from the mast-head I could see very distinctly the belt of rocks and breakers extending uninterruptedly to the northward, as far as the end of Campana. “¢ We hauled off for the night, and had light variable airs, or calms, until 2 a.m. of the 12th, when a breeze from the northward sprung up, and freshened so rapidly, that by noon we were again reduced to a close-reefed main-topsail and foresail. 'The gale was accompanied, as usual, by incessant rain and thick weather, and a heavy confused sea kept our decks always flooded. “ The effect of this wet and miserable weather, of which we had had so much since leaving Port Famine, was too manifest by the state of the sick list, on which were now many patients with catarrhal, pulmonary, and rheumatic complaints. The gale continued undiminished until the morning of the 13th, mM 2 164 SANTA BARBARA—DUNDEE Rock. April 1828. when, having moderated, we bore up and steered N.E. to close the land. At noon a good meridional altitude gave our latitude 48° 30’ south, and about the same time we saw the land bearing N.E. b. E., which we soon made out to be Parallel Peak. After allowing amply for heave of sea, and lee-way, we were considerably southward of our reckoning, which indicates a southerly current ; but under such circumstances of wind and weather its exact direction, or strength, could not be ascertained. ‘We proceeded along the land, taking angles and bearings for the survey, and at sunset the N.W. end of Campana bore from us north (magnetic), distant five leagues. Being now off the N.W. end of the island of Campana, which forms the south-western headland of the Gulf of Penas, I considered that, before I proceeded to examine its inlets, I ought to look for the Harbour of Santa Barbara, which has been placed on the old charts in this neighbourhood. Accordingly we lay-to during the night, and at 4 a.m. bore up to close the land ; at daylight the extremes of it were seen indistinctly through a very cloudy and hazy atmosphere, from N. 39° E. to 8. 53° E. About noon the weather cleared off, and we got the meridian altitude of the sun, which gave our latitude 48° 09’ south.* We directed the course for the Dundee Rock, and when abreast of it, steered N.E. (compass) for an opening in the low part of the coast ahead, backed by very high mountains, which we found was the entrance of Port Santa Barbara. The coast to the southward was lined with rocky islets, rocks, and breakers, extending a league to seaward, and there were others to the north- ward. We were in a channel half a mile wide, through which we continued our course, sounding from fifteen to eleven fathoms, and in the evening anchored near the entrance of the harbour. * The N.W. end of the Island de la Campana bearing N. 71°. 40’. E. Two distant hummocky islands (answering pretty well in position with the Guaianeco Islands of the Spanish charts) N. 53°. 30% E., and N. 55°. 48’. E., and a remarkable rock, the ‘Dundee’ of Bulkeley and Cummings, about forty-five feet high, rising like a tower from the sea, distant off shore five miles, bearing east of us, distant one mile. April 1828. OAK BEAM OF THE WAGER. 165 “* As our present situation was completely exposed to westerly winds, I went to examine a deep bight in the southern shore, which proved to be a good harbour, perfectly sheltered from all winds, with a depth of three and a half fathoms over a fine sandy bottom. In the afternoon we weighed anchor and warped into a berth in the inner harbour, where we moored in three fathoms. I found lying, just above high-water mark, half buried in sand, the beam of a large vessel.* We imme- diately conjectured that it had formed part of the ill-fated Wager, one of Lord Anson’s squadron (of whose loss the tale is so well told in the narratives of Byron and Bulkeley): the dimensions seemed to correspond with her size, and the con- jecture was strengthened by the circumstance that one of the knees that attached it to the ship’s side had been cut, which occurred in her case, when her decks were scuttled to get at the provisions ; all the bolts were much corroded ; but the wood, wjth the exception of the outside being worm-eaten, was perfectly sound. Our carpenter pronounced it to be English oak. *¢ The land about this harbour is similar to that about Port Henry. Its shores are rocky, with some patches of sandy beach, but every where covered with trees, or an impervious jungle, composed of dwarfish trees and shrubs. The land, in most places, rises abruptly from the shore to mountains, some of which attain an altitude of more than two thousand feet, and are quite bare at their summits and on their sides, except in sheltered ravines, where a thick growth of trees is found. These mountains, or at least their bases, where we could break off specimens, were of basalt, with large masses of quartz imbedded in it; but on some parts of the shores the rocks were of very coarse granite. “‘ As in the vicinity of Port Henry, the thickness of the jungle prevented our going far inland; the greatest distance was gained by Lieut. Skyring, who, with his wonted zeal to prosecute the survey, ascended some of the mountains for the * Length twenty feet five inches and a half, sided twelve inches, and moulded eight inches and a half. 166 MOUNTAINS—INDIAN Wicwams. April 1828. purpose of obtaining bearings of remote points: he remarked to me, ‘that many miles were passed over in ascending even moderate heights; the land was very high and very irregular ; the mountains seemed not to lie in any uniform direction, and the longest chain that was observed did not exceed five miles. The flat land between the heights was never two miles in extent: the ground was always swampy, and generally there were small lakes receiving the drainage of mountain-streams. Indeed the whole country appeared broken and unconnected.” ‘“*Some of the mountains were ascertained to be 2,500 feet high, but the general height was about 2,000 feet. A large island, on the northern side of the harbour, is an excellent watering-place, at which casks may be conveniently filled m the boat. It is also an object of great natural beauty: the bill, which forms its western side, rises to seven or eight hun- dred feet, almost perpendicularly, and when viewed from its base in a boat, seems stupendous: it is clothed with trees, among which the light-green leaves of the Winter’s-bark tree, and the red flowers of the Fuchsia, unite their tints with the darker foliage of other trees. ‘This perpendicular part extends to the northward till it is met by the body of the mountain, which is arched into a spacious cavern, fifty yards wide and a hundred feet high, whose sides are clothed with a rich growth of shrubs; and before it a cascade descends down the steep face of the mountain. ‘¢On the shore we found two Indian wigwams and the remains of a third; but they had evidently been long deserted, for the grass had grown up both around and within them to the height of more than a foot. These wigwams were exactly similar to those in the Strait of Magalhaens: one was larger than any I had met with, being eighteen feet in diameter. 'The only land birds I saw were two owls, which passed by us after dusk with a screeching noise. ‘*On the patches of sandy beach, in the inner harbour, we hauled the seine, but unsuccessfully ; we expected to find fish plentiful here, from seeing many seals on the rocks outside, and from finding the water quite red with the spawn of cray- April 1828. GUAIANECO ISLANDS. 167 fish. Muscles and limpets were pretty abundant, and the shells (Concholepas Peruviana) used by the Magalhaenic tribes as drinking cups, were found adhering to the rocks in great numbers. ‘“‘ Nothing could be worse than the weather we had during nine days’ stay here ; the wind, in whatever quarter it stood, brought thick heavy clouds, which precipitated themselves in torrents, or in drizzling rain. We were well sheltered from the regular winds ; but many troublesome eddies were caused by the surrounding heights, while the passing clouds showed that strong and squally north-west winds were prevalent. ‘On the morning of the 24th, we put to sea with a southerly breeze. The extent of coast from the eastern part of Port Santa Barbara to the outer of the Guaianeco Islands presents several inlets running deep into the land ; but it is completely bound by rocks and rocky islets, which, with its being generally a lee- shore, renders it extremely unsafe to approach. Observing an opening between some islets, of which we had taken the bear- ing at noon, we stood in to see whether it afforded anchorage ; and approaching the extremity of the larger island, proceeded along it at the distance of only half a mile, when, after running two miles through a labyrinth of rocks and kelp, we were com- pelled to haul out, and in doing so scarcely weathered, by a ship’s length, the outer islet. Deeming it useless to expend further time in the examination of this dangerous portion of the gulf, we proceeded towards Cape Tres Montes, its north- western headland. ‘* At sunset Cape Tres Montes bore N. 25° W., distant eighteen miles. In this point of view the cape makes very high and bold; to the eastward of it, land was seen uninter- ruptedly as far as the eye could reach. We stood in shore next morning, and were then at a loss to know, precisely, which was the cape. The highest mountain was the southern pro- jection, and has been marked on the chart as Cape Tres Montes: but none of the heights, from any point in which we saw them, ever appeared as ‘three mounts.’ The land, though mountainous, seemed more wooded, and had a less 168 CAPE TRES MONTES. April 1828. rugged outline than that we had been hitherto coasting, since leaving the Strait. We steered along the western coast of the land near Cape Tres Montes, and at noon, being three miles from the shore, observed, in latitude 46° 5. south, the cape, bearing N. 80° E. (mag.), distant seven miles. The northern- most cape in sight N. 26° W., distant ten miles, soundings ninety-seven fathoms. Shortly afterwards another cape opened at N. 37° W. (mag.). “ Sal Feb. 1829. WATER—GALE—DEPARTURE. 191 On the night of the 2d of February we experienced another very severe pampero, during which one of the Beagle’s boats, hauled up on shore, was blown to atoms. The barometer had previously fallen to 29°39. On the 9th of February, we went to Monte Video, and on the 17th ran up the north side of the river for water; but did not find it fresh until we were within four miles of Cape ‘ Jesus Maria.’ The wind was against cur return, so that we had to beat down the river, in doing which the Adelaide grounded, but without receiving any injury. We anchored twice in our passage out, and, at the second anchorage,* experienced a very heavy westerly gale. In attempting to weigh at its com- mencement, our windlass was so much injured, that we were obliged to ride the gale out, which we did by veering to one hundred and ten fathoms of chain cable; and the Beagle, to one hundred and fifty fathoms. Owing to a short heavy sea, in which the Adventure frequently pitched her bowsprit and stern alternately under water, her jolly-boat was washed away. 'This loss we could ill afford, as we were already three boats short of our establishment, and wants; and as the Adelaide had suffered severely, by losing her topmast and jib-boom, and carrying away the head of her bowsprit, we were obliged to return, very reluctantly, atter the gale had subsided, to Monte Video; whence we finally sailed on the lst of March. On the 5thaS8.S.E. gale separated us from our consorts, our course, therefore, was directed for the first rendezvous, at Port Desire. When off Cape Blanco, the high land of Espinosa, in the interior, was clearly distinguished at a distance of sixty miles, and might probably be seen twenty miles further ; so that its height must be, at least, four thousand feet. This range is of irregular form, and has several peaked summits, sovery different from the general features of this coast, where the heights are either flat-topped, or of an undulating outline, that I suppose the rock to be of a character unlike that of the porphyry hills common hereabouts. * From which the Mount (at Monte Video) bore N. 11°. W., distant eight leagues. 192 PORT DESIRE—TOWER ROCK. March 1829, On anchoring off Port Desire (14th), we found that the Beagle had arrived, but had not met the Adelaide. The fol- lowing afternoon I landed to examine the Tower Rock, a very conspicuous object, on the south side of this harbour, having the appearance of an enormous dead tree with its branches lopped off. On our way to it we passed over an undulating plain, composed of a sandy light soil, lying on a rocky basis, which in many parts protruded. The soil was so poor, as only to produce a few tufts of grass, and here and there a straggling bush of Berberis, or Piccoli,.a dwarf woody shrub, which is much esteemed as firewood by the sealers who frequent the coast. Sir John Narborough, in describing this place, says, “ June 1829. ADELAIDE REJOINS THE BEAGLE. 957 ‘¢ With a leading wind, the next morning, we reached the south narrows of the Barbara Channel, through which we were carried by a strong tide, and anchored in Bedford Bay. “« Here, as well as throughout the Barbara channel, the flood tide sets to the southward. We obtained at this place angles which connected our triangulation with points fixed by Captain King during the previous year, and finished our exa- mination of these channels within a very few days of the time allotted. “On the 8th of June we attempted to pass through the Shag Narrows, but not saving the tide, were obliged to anchor for the night in Field Bay, which is small and much exposed to southerly winds; the bank also is very abrupt, and the water 1s deep close to the shore. “On the 9th we succeeded in clearmg the Narrows, and reached Port Gallant early in the afternoon, where we rejoined the Beagle.” Having given these brief extracts from Journals kept on board the Beagle and Adelaide, during the time occupied by the Adventure about Cape Horn, or on her way to Childe, I will resume my own narrative. As it was my intention to remain at this port * until the Beagle and Adelaide were equipped, the Adventure was made snug, and, by way of relaxation, such of the officers as could be spared from the duties of the ship, resided in turns at the town, where also the ship’s company had frequently permission to amuse themselves. The Hoxsley schooner arrived from Valparaiso and brought me letters from the Admiralty, acquiescing in my request to return to England direct, instead of proceeding by way of New South Wales and the Cape of Good Hope, as was originally intended. I therefore determined to return to Valparaiso as soon as our consorts had taken their departure, proceed thence to Port Famine, where we were to be joined by the Adelaide, and afterwards repair to Rio de-Janeiro to await the Beagle’s arrival, when we should sail for England. * San Carlos, in Chilée. VOL, I. S . 258 ADELAIDE ARRIVES AT CHILGOE. July 1829. On the 20th of September my anxiety for the Adelaide was relieved by her appearance, and by finding all on board her in good health. She had gone up the coast by the channels that communicate with the Strait of Magalhaens at Beaufort Bay, passing inside of Hanover Island and Madre de Dios; and Lieut. Skyring gave me avery interesting account of their discoveries, of which the following is an abstract. It will be remembered that the Beagle left the Adelaide at anchor under Cape Upright. While there the wind fresh- ened up from the eastward, and threw a swell into the bay, which rendered the anchorage very unsafe, as the schooner’s stern was in the foam of the sea that broke on the rocky shore close to her. Much anxiety was felt for their safety, but the anchors held well. As soon as the weather permitted they sailed, entered Beaufort Bay, and steered towards a deep open_ ing to the eastward of Cape Phillip, into which they ran with a steady S.E. wind, and found an anchorage on the west side in Deep Harbour. | On the 5th of July Lieut. Skyring and Mr. Kirke were absent in a whaleboat, exploring a deep opening eastward of Cape Tamar, which they found to terminate in two sounds, named by them Icy Sound and Glacier Bay; the first from its being covered with a sheet of ice, and the latter from its being full of large masses which had been detached from an extensive glacier occupying the bottom of the bay. ‘The exa- mination of this opening was made in search of a channel, through which, vessels had entered the Strait, and the schooner was to proceed to her rendezvous. The result proved that the Adelaide was already in the channel they were looking for, therefore they returned on board, and proceeded (7th) to the northward. In passing Mount Joy a strong tide was observed, the certain indication of a channel; for, as has been before remarked, within sounds the tide has no perceptible stream. To gain a better knowledge of their way they anchored early in Good’s Bay; the course of the chamnel, from the inter- section of points, and intervention of islands, being by no means distinct. Lieut. Graves made a plan of the bay, while July 1829. ADELAIDE'S PROCEEDINGS. 259 Lieut. Skyring, and his assistant,* completed the survey of the entrance to the passage, which was named Smyth Channel, as a compliment to Capt. W. H. Smyth, R. N., under whom, while surveying the Mediterranean, both Lieuts. Skyring and Graves had served. The best channel they found to the eastward of Renouard Island, and the Adelaide took that course, but stopped a night in a small cove on the eastern side of the island, and in passing Shoal Island next day struck on a rock ; she was got off how- ever without injury, and anchored afterwards, for a night, on the north side of the Island of the Narrows. The two following days (10th and 11th) were spent in examining the coast, and exploring Clapperton Inlet, which had the appearance of being a channel. From the hills at the bottom Lieut. Skyring noticed a considerable tract of low land and open plain, extending to the northward. On the 12th, being Sunday, they remained quiet, and on the 13th the wea- ther was so calm that they only reached Hose Harbour, on the east side; and the next day Oake Bay. Thence crossing the channel in a whaleboat they explored some distance along that shore; and on the 15th anchored in Otter Bay. This slow progress was unavoidable, owing to the calm state of the wea- ther, and to the survey being principally, if not entirely, carried on in boats, | On the 16th the schooner was towed onwards, and passing over an extensive shoal flat of three fathoms, reached the Sum- mer Islands, where she might have stopped, but, as the tide was still favourable, she proceeded to an anchorage under Long Island, the most northern in the Elson group. The eastern shore of the channel was there very different in character from what they had so long been accustomed to, being nearly level; and, extending for some distance off every low point, there was shoal water. For some days a lofty mountain, covered with snow, had been in sight; which, by angular measurement, proved te * Mr. Kirke. < 9 ¥ tf 260 BURNEY—SMYTH CHANNEL. July 1829. be 5,800 feet in height. It was named Mount Burney, in compliment to the admiral. On the 17th the Adelaide reached Fortune Bay, situated at the east extreme of a headland, on each side of which is a chan- nel, leading, apparently, towards Cape Isabel. The northern seemed to be the principal one, and therefore was followed next day (18th) as far as Welcome Bay. Continuing the survey onwards they reached Victory Pas- sage, which they entered, thinking they were in the mouth of the ‘ Ancon sin Salida,’ as laid down from Sarmiento’s journal by Admiral Burney. ‘The weather, however, became so bad, that they were obliged to take shelter in Island Bay, and the next day the wind setting in from the eastward, they gave up, for a time, their search for the ‘ Ancon sin salida,’ and proceeded by Smyth Channel, as far as Hamper Bay, where they were again detained by bad weather. Here a few rock fish were caught, but at no other time during this cruise were the fishermen successful, although the channel was so filled by porpoises and seals, that it is probably well stocked with fish at the proper season: and there are many places where the seine might be shot. Proceeding slowly on the 25th, the Adelaide struck on a rock, and remained fast for a few hours, but as the tide rose she swung off without damage. Upon examining Rocky Bay they found it a complete bed of rocks; yet, bad as it was, the Adelaide was obliged to remain there five days, owing ‘to the tempestuous state of the weather. On the 30th they reached the north end of Smyth Channel, and anchored in Narrow Creek. | On the 31st Lieut. Skyring went to a remarkable hill, which he called Mount Trafalgar, but thought it might have been the ‘ Monte Trigo’* of Sarmiento, so much did its appear- ance remind him of a corn stack. The day was most favour- able: a round of angles, and an extensive view down Lord Nelson’s Strait, were obtained from the summit. They remained on an island all night, sheltered by the boat, and next morning went to two points, called by Sarmiento ‘ Queste,’ and ‘ Mas * A heap, or stack of corn. Aug. 1829. ANCON SIN SALIDA. 261 al Oueste,’ (west and more west,) returning to the Adelaide in the evening. The following morning was fine, and the Adelaide moved out of Smyth Channel, the survey of which was completed very satisfactorily, although their progress was slow, owing to con- stant northerly winds. By towing the Adelaide during tedious calms, they reached Montague Bay in the evening, and next day anchored in Relief Harbour, on the S.W. side of Vancouver Island. As it was evident that the ‘ Ancon sin salida” was within Piazzi and Ceres Islands, up the west coasts of which they had passed, Lieut. Skyring left the schooner moored in Relief -Harbour, and proceeded, on the 4th August, to the southward, in a whale-boat with Mr. Kirke; but he took no more than a week’s provisions, that time being all he could devote to this exploration. The 4th, 5th, and 6th, Lieutenant Skyring employed in pulling or sailmg to the southward and eastward, through winding and intricate passages; although strong winds and much heavy rain annoyed him, and impeded his progress. On the 7th the weather was much more favourable than it had lately been. The boat pulled and sailed to the southward, and at noon Lieutenant Skyring ascended a height,* having on each side of it a deep opening, but he was disappointed in the view; and, after taking bearings, pulled round the adja- cent bights, one of which was exactly opposite Artist Bay, in Smyth Channel, and so near it that the two waters were only separated by a few hundred yards ;+ the other, eastward of the height, was large, and closed at the bottom by very low lands. It was directly supposed to be the * Ancon sin Salida;’s but Sarmiento’s description, and the chart compiled by Burney, * No doubt the Mount Oracion of Sarmiento, p. 144.—P.P.K. + This place is described in Sarmiento’s journal, p. 144.—P.P.K. t Ensenada de la Oracion of Sarmiento.—P.P.K. § This bay is also deseribed by Sarmiento as an ‘ Ancon sin salida,’ _ p. 143; but it is evidently not the one that bears that name on the chart. —P.P.K. 262 NATIVES—CHANNELS. Aug. 1829. were insufficient to enable them to decide with any degree of certainty. After looking round this bay, they continued to the eastward, and passed a point beyond which there was appa- rently a wide channel; having run about six imiles down it without discovering any termination, they hauled their boat up on the beach for the night. On the 8th, two canoes were noticed on the west shore; but seeing strangers the natives, apparently much frightened; all landed, except an old man; and taking with them what they most valued, hid themselves among the brush=wood, leav- ing their canoes fastened to the sea-weed: By some Fuegian words of invitation, the men were, however, induced to approach and traffic, receiving for their otter skins whatever could be spared. In appearance and manner these Indians were exactly similar to the Fuegians ; and by their canoes only, which were built of planks, could they be distinguished as belonging to another tribe. | After leaving the natives, the boat passed Cape Earnest, and Lieutenant Skyring observed a wide channel leading north and then N.N.W.;* also, another opening to the eastward. The wind being easterly, he ran some distance to the north- ward, to gain more knowledge of the first inlet ; and having gone ten or twelve miles from Cape Earnest, and observing the opening for eight miles beyond to be as wide as where they then were, he concluded it to be a channel, or else a deep sound terminated by low land, for there was evidently a division in * Here is certainly the Ancon sin salida of Sarmiento, whose journal describes the inlet as terminating in a cove to the north, p. 142. The mountain of Ano Nuevo cannot be mistaken; indeed the whole of the coast is so well described by the ancient mariner, that we have little diffi- culty in determining the greater number of places he visited. In all cases we have, of course; preserved his names. The chart compiled by Admiral Burney is a remarkable instance of the care which that author took in arranging it, and how ingeniously and correetly he has displayed his judgment; it is alsoa proof that our favourite old voyager, Sarmiento, was at least correct in his descriptions, although he appears to have been quite ignorant of the variation of the compass. —See Burney Coll. Voyages, p. 31; and Sarmiento, p. 162. Aug. 1829. LIEUT. SKYRING’S DISCOVERY. 263 the mountains, such as to justify this belief. Returning, they entered the smaller opening to the eastward, and were almost assured of its being a channel; for when they were between the points, many porpoises and seals were observed, and a tide was found setting westward, at the rate of two knots. At dark, they hauled their boat on the beach of an excellent bay, at the north side of the narrow reach, and secured her for the night. On the 9th, shortly after daylight, they set out in a N.E. direction to ascertain the truth of their supposition; and before noon knew, beyond a doubt, that they were correct in their belief, being in the narrows of a channel before unknown, that had eluded Sarmiento’s notice. ‘These narrows, which Lieu- _ tenant Skyring felt assured would lead to a large opening, were upwards of three miles in length, and generally about one-third of a mile in breadth. A strong tide took the boat through ; and at the N.E. extremity, where the narrows were reduced to four hundred yards in width, the water, although a neap-tide, rushed at the rate of four knots, forming whirling eddies, which were carefully avoided by Lieutenant Skyring. At spring-tide, the strength of these rapids would probably not be less than seven knots. Having passed through them, a clear channel was seen, upwards of two miles wide, running to the N.b. E. for, at least, eight miles, and then turning directly eastward, between mode- rately high land. Another channel, nearly a mile and a half wide, trended to the S.E. for two or three miles, and then also turned to the eastward. Here they stopped. Lieutenant Skyring regretted extremely not being able to prosecute the discovery, and have one more view from the eastern point of the N.E. channel ; but as only one day’s provisions remained, it would have been imprudent to delay his return. It was evi- _ dent, that they had passed through the range of the Cordil- leras,* for to the eastward the country appeared totally differ- ent, the highest hill not being above seven hundred feet. The opening to the N.E. was thought to communicate with the waters’ lately discovered by Captain Fitz Roy. The latitude * ¢ Cordillera Nevada’ of Sarmiento. 264 RETURN FROM KIRKE NaRkows. Aug. 1829. was obtained on Point Return; and in the afternoon, reluc- tantly but anxiously, they retraced their way, and passed that night at their former quarters, in Whale-boat Bay. On the 10th, at daylight, they proceeded on their return. The wind was fair until they reached Cape Earnest, when it drew right against them; and they had the unpleasant prospect of a tedious pull to the schooner, with very little provision. The 11th was a thoroughly wet day, and the wind was so strong from the northward, with a very heavy sea running, that it was impossible to proceed. On the 12th, they left the bay soon after daylight, and hav- ing pulled along shore a few miles, crossed Union Sound, and gained the Narrows of San Benito, the wind being still fresh from the northward ; thence they continued pulling until they hauled up, after dark, in a bay, opposite Point Benito, and waited till the morning of the 13th, when with a fresh 8.W. wind they made good progress, which was of the more conse- quence, as their provisions were expended, although they had eked them out with corvorants and muscles. At last, the sight of the Adelaide rejoiced them, and they soon afterwards reached her. Their appearance was a relief to all who were on board, as they were becoming very anxious, and Lieut. Graves was preparmg to send the other whale-beat in search of them. During their absence he had made the necessary astronomical observations, and finished the examination of those shores adja- cent to the harbours. From the 13th to the 17th, the schooner was detained by bad weather, and the following day only succeeded in reaching Escape Bay, in San Estevan Channel, which was found to be a good and well-sheltered anchorage, although small. On the 19th, after angles had been taken on each side of the Channel, the Adelaide got under weigh, and steered up the Channel. At noon she passed the mount which they supposed to be Sarmiento’s Monte Trigo, and soon after, nearing Espe- ranza Island, they sought for some mark by which to recog- nise the Mountain of the Fox (¢ Monte de la Zorra’). In the white part of a cliff, they fancied some resemblance to an Aug. 1829. GUIA NARROWS—PECULIAR TIDES. 965 anima], and noticed a harbour opposite, in which they anchored. They had such trouble in getting to the northward, that this day’s run, though only eighteen miles, was a cause of much satisfaction. On the 20th, at daylight, the boats were employed around the anchorage, and at nine o’clock the vessel was underweigh, and working to the northward, although it rained hard then, as well as throughout the whole day, after beating until the evening, she anchored on the west shore. Constant rain fell through the whole night, and during the 2ist; it was therefore impossible to make any progress to the northward. On the 22d the Adelaide weighed, and the weather being calm, was towed during the whole forenoon. At noon a south- erly wind sprung up, and by the evening she was in the Guia Narrows (of Sarmiento). They tried for anchorage in Unfit Bay, conceiving it to be Sarmiento’s Port Ochavario; but none being found, the vessel was towed into a cove, and securely moored. | Next day the boats surveyed the Guia Narrows: Although long, they did not appear hazardous to pass, for the tides are not very rapid. The ebb tide runs to the northward, but at the south entrance of the San Estevan Channel, the ebb sets to the southward ; which difference in direction, within so short a distance, is extraordinary, and difficult to account for without knowing more of the coast. Certainly there is a meeting of tides between the two entrances; probably, all the land west- ward of San Estevan is a collection of large islands, and water flows into this channel, from the Pacific, through many open- ings, which may be the cause of this peculiarity. 24th. With light breezes from the eastward, the schooner weighed and stood through the Narrows; passed Point San Juan, and continued along the eastern shore of Concepcion Strait to Guard Bay, where she was moored. 25th. Rainy weather until near noon, when the boats were employed. On the 26th the schooner was towed out, and, as it was calm, 266 WALKER BAY—MOLYNEUX souND. Aug. 1829. kept a boat a-head the whole day. She anchored in a small bight, formed by Chance Islands, about seven miles from Guard Bay. The 27th was rainy; but the boats went to different points, and angles were taken before the schooner weighed and worked northward. At noon she came to an anchor in a small bay, northward of the Hocico de Caiman. Constant rain during the remainder of the day. On the 28th it rained too incessantly the whole morning, to allow the party to work, even in boats; and the day was passed in laying down former observations. 29th. After angles had been taken near the anchorage, the schooner was moved, and worked along the coast. A strong wind from the N.W., with a heavy sea, brought the vessel under close-reefed sails, and obliged her to anchor in Walker Bay. On the 30th, the Adelaide anchored in Molyneux Sound. To give a clearer idea of the delays experienced in making progress to the northward through these intricate channels, I shall now extract part of Lieutenant Skyring’s Journal, in his own words : ‘‘ 31st. Wind N.N.W. with a heavy swell in the Strait ; the boats at daylight went north and south of the anchorage, and angles were obtained. At nine, ready for starting; but the weather was too unfavourable, and continued so until the 4th of September, when, at seven o’clock in the morning, we weighed. At nine, squally—obliged to double-reef; but the tide serving, we gained a few miles to windward, and at one, p.M., stood among a mass of islands on the west side, and moored in Tom’s Bay, steadying the vessel with the stream anchor. In the afternoon the survey was continued, and from the heights a view was obtained of the Gulf of Trinidad, and of several points observed last year. Another detention of two days, owing to bad weather. “7th. Cloudy; weighed at daylight, and stood for the narrows. At eight, squally, with thick snowy weather; but, being once under weigh, we refrained from returning, until compelled. It certainly was not a favourable day for working Sept: 1829. » INDIANS IN PLANK CANOES. 267 through ; but the wind moderated, and our attempt succeeded. No anchorage being found by the boats on the north side of the narrows, we made for the weather-shore of the gulf, and anchored early in Windward Bay. In the afternoon, angles were taken on Middle Island, and east and west of the anchor- age. The time of our departure drawing near, it became doubly necessary to work constantly, that we might join this survey with that of last year, in the Beagle. “ 8th. Weighed at daylight; wind light from N.W.; but, falling calm, boats were detached for continuing the angles, and the latitude was observed on Red Beak Rocks. At five o’clock, we gained an anchorage, close to the eastward of the Ancon del Morro, on the S.E. side of Division Isle, in a bay which answered our purpose, although it was rather a confined place. Some angles were taken on Point Candelaria, preparatory to continuing our course next morning. ‘Oth. At daylight weighed and stood over to the northern shore, and at eleven, anchored in Neesham Bay, in eleven fathoms. Boats employed in the afternoon, on the survey. While at anchor, two canoes, containing together thirty-two Indians, came alongside ; they were chiefly men, a finer race of people, better formed, and better featured than the Fuegians, and much less noisy. ‘Their canoes were made of planks, the longest up- wards of twenty-three feet in length: they appeared exceedingly buoyant, and pulled quickly: “10th. At daylight, we sailed out of the bay, with a light breeze from the eastward ; at seven, the wind increased, and a heavy sea rose in the gulf. It was my intention to get an anchorage under Mount Corso; but, as that was now a leeward coast, with a heavy sea setting upon the shore; it would have been improper to attempt seeking for one. If it had answered our purpose, we might have gone to Port Henry, and, indeed, this was the only safe course we could have pursued, if our object had been to remain in the gulf; but no time was left to wait for favourable weather ; therefore I chose in preference to leave the gulf, and take advantage of the fair wind to gain an offing, the time of our return being so near. 268 FROM TRINIDAD GULF TO CHILOE. Sept. 1829. ‘“‘ We left the gulf two days before I had expected to have done so; but we all rejoiced at our departure. No crew could have performed their duty more willingly than the Adelaide’s ; but such lengthened fatigue as they had undergone, was suffi- cient to make any men feel happy at the prospect of a respite. “‘ It was a pleasing reflection to Lieutenant Graves and myself, that the orders had been fully executed ; that the coast we had passed was throughout well connected ; and that this service. was concluded without any illness or accident among the crew, without any damage to the vessel, without any loss of boats, or even the slightest misfortune.” During the Adelaide’s passage to Childe, Lieutenant Skyring and his companion were assiduously employed in transferring their observations to paper, notwithstanding the violent motion of their little vessel, during ten days of rough weather. CHAPTER XVI. Chil6e—Its probable importance—Valdivia founds seven cities; after- wards destroyed by the Indians—Migration of Spanish settlers—Pro- vince and Islands of Chil6e—Districts and population—Government— Defence —Winds— Town — Durability of wooden buildings — Culti- vation—Want of industry—Improvement—Dress — Habits of lower classes — Morality —Schools— Language— Produce—Manufactures— Exports and imports—Varieties of wood—Alerse— Roads—Piraguas Ploughs—Corn —Potatoes—Contributions—Birds—Shell-fish—Medi- cal practitioners—Remedies—Climate. As the Island of Chiloe was formerly shrouded from notice, by the policy of its master, the King of Spain, and therefore little known to the world; I have considered it not irrelevant to the narration of the voyage, to introduce a short account of its present state, particularly as since the trade of the whole coast has been opened, a new era has dawned upon this interest- ing island; and although it has been, as yet, the least frequented of the South American States, I think the time is not far distant, when it will become an important part of the Chilian territory. After the foundation of the city of Penco, or Concepcion, by Don Pedro de Valdivia, in the year 1550, he passed on towards the south in search of convenient situations for other cities; and crossing the river Bio Bio, which separates Concepcion from the territory of the Araucanian Indians, successively founded Imperial, Valdivia, Villa Rica, Angol, Canete, and Osorno ; the last being effected in the year 1558. The necessary distri- bution of the Spanish forces, to protect so many points, made them comparatively defenceless, in a country inhabited by a large population of Indians, who contemplated the hostile occupation of their native land, by the invading army, with a deep dissatisfaction. They had for some time endured, with sullen patience, the yoke of the Spaniards; but at last, incensed by the servility and bondage to which they were reduced, and, probably, by no small portion of ill-treatment ; the whole popu- lation rose simultaneously, and waged a most destructive and 270 MIGRATION OF SPANISH SETTLERS. 1550-70. harassing war against the Spaniards, in which the above-men- tioned cities were all destroyed, and the greater number of their inhabitants put to death. The destruction of the city of Osorno caused the province of Childe, or, at least, the adjacent districts of Calbuco and Carelmapu, to be occupied. This town, being more distant from the seat of war, where the main body of the Indian army was actively employed, was enabled to hold out for some time ; but, at last, cut off from assistance, prevented from com- municating with friends, and utterly destitute of supplies, the inhabitants retired to the fort, or citadel ; which they main- tained, until compelled, by absolute want of provisions, to abandon their position, and proceed to the south, with a view of establishing themselves in Carelmapu and Calbuco; where they hoped to be safe from attack. Their retreat was attended by much suffering ; many died from fatigue, and many were cut off by the Indians, who hovered about them and murdered all who fell into their hands.* At last they reached their destination, and established themselves first at Carelmapu, which is on the main-land, on the north side of the Boca de Childe, opposite to San Carlos; and afterwards at Calbuco, on an island at the entrance to the Gulf of Relon- cavi. The latter position by its insularity, was effectually pro- tected against any attack from Indian tribes, who, for many years, continually harassed the inhabitants of Carelmapu. At what date this journey was made does not appear; nor is it certain that these places were occupied before the foundation of the city of Castro, in 1566, by the Licentiate Lope Garcia de Castro, in pursuance of an order from the Viceroy of Peru, Marshal Don Martin Ruiz de Gamboa.+ The island of Childe, from its situation, is a place of con- siderable importance, and may be termed the key of the Pacific, * A very full and detailed account of this journey is given by Agtieros, in his ‘ History of the Province of Childe,’ pp. 50 to 56, as well as in the ‘Chronicles of the Province of Lima, by Padre Fr. Diego de Cordova,’ Salinas, chap. xvii. p. 485. E + Agiieros, l.c. p. 57. 1829. ISLANDS OF CHILOE. art It is the northernmost of that vast archipelago, which borders the coast from latitude 42° south te Cape Horn. The province of Childe, one of the eight divisions of the Chilian Republic, includes several islands, and extends on the main-land, as far as the south bank of the River Maullin;* which takes in the districts of Carelmapu and Calbuco. Its southern extent is not defined; but as the existence of Chilian authority is not known, to the southward of the Chonos Archi- pelago, certainly not farther south than the land of T'res Montes, the parallel of 47° may be considered its southern limit. The country thence, to the Strait of Magalhaens, is known by the appellation of Western Patagonia, Besides the Isla Grande, as Childe is called, the following islands are inhabited :—Achao, or Quinchao, Lemuy, Quehuy, Chelin, Linlin, Llignua, Quenac, Meulin, Caguach or Cahua- che, Alao, Apiao, Chaulinec, all in front of Castro; the Chau- gues Islands, opposite to Tenoun ; Calbuco, Llaichua, Quenu, Tabor, Abtao, Chiduapi (on which is the fort); Huar in the neighbourhood, and district of Calbuco; and, to the South, ‘Tanqui, to which may be added Caylin, which is also called E] fin de la Cristiandad.+ Of the above, next to the Isla Grande, the principal are Quinchao and Lemuy, both of which are very populous, and * Agiieros describes its boundary thus :—It is situated between the latitudes 41° 30’ and 44°; from Point Capitanes to Quilan. On the north it is bounded by the territories of the Indian tribes Juncos and Rancos, which extend to Valdivia; on the N.E. by those of the ancient but destroyed city Osorno; on the south by the archipelago of Guaitecas and Guaianeco, and others which extend to the Strait of Magalhaens ; on the east by the Cordillera; and on the west by the sea. (Agiieros, p- 61.) + When the Yntendente, or governor of the province, visited Castro for the purpose of taking a census of the population, a family of Indians waited upon him to render an account of their property; who, upon being asked whence they came, replied, “ Del fin de la Cristiandad,”’ The name being new to the Yntendente, it was explained to him that they belonged to Caylin, which was more generally known by the above name, because there existed no Christian population beyond, or to the southward of, that island, AT bd DISTRICTS AND POPULATION. 1829. almost entirely cultivated. ‘The other islands are small, and very close to each other; but separated by navigable channels, which offer many dangers to the frail vessels in which the islanders move about. The province is divided into ten districts, or Partidos, as follows :— 1. San Carlos, containing the northern coast of the island, as far as Chacao. Chacao. The N.E. part of the island. Carelmapu and Maullin. Calbuco. : Dalcahue, extending from Chacao to Tenoun. Quenac. . Quinchao. Castro. Lemuy. Chonchi, which extends from Castro to the south ex- tremity of the island. By the census of 1828, the population of the large island, and those in its neighbourhood would appear to be, com- paratively, very considerable ; the number of souls being 43,131 :* particularly as the greater portion of the interior, and much of the sea-coast, are quite uninhabited. The population of the district of San Carlos is confined principally to the town ; for between it and Chacao, there are very few inhabitants. At Chacao there are only about two hundred houses, and Dalcahue is but thinly occupied: but Castro, Quinchao, and Lemuy, are very populous. ‘These three districts are the most fertile and productive part of the island, particularly for seven or eight miles round Castro. The peninsula opposite to that town, which is entirely cleared, would abundantly repay its cultivators, were industry more common among them. Childe is governed by an ‘ Yntendente,’ or civil governor, who exacts obedience to the constitutional laws, as well as to the orders of the executive powers, and the resolutions of the provincial assembly, which is composed of members, elected * In the year 1783 there were 23,447 (Agiieros): and in 1832, 43,830. SOMUWA NS WP YQ 1829. GOVERNMENT—DEFENCE. Qi3 by the people, at the rate of one deputy for 7,500 souls ; but whatever the number may be, short of 90,000, twelve deputies are to be elected. The duration of the assembly is biennial, and its business is to superintend the civil regulations of the pro- vince. Under the Yntendente each province has a local governor, whose principal duties are to maintain order, preside in the municipal meetings, see their regulations carried into execution, and obey the orders of the Yntendente of the province. Whilst we were at Childe, the duties of Yntendente, and military com- mandant, were performed by one person, Brigadier-general Don José Santiago Aldunate ; but, upon his resignation, the offices were separated: the military commandant retaining the charge of the treasury. The duties of the military chief, are to dispose of the troops under his command, as he sees occasion, so as to ensure the quietness, and subordination of the province, for which he is responsible ; and to render the Yntendente such assistance as he may require; but, for all ordinary purposes, the Militia, who are under the immediate control of the Ynten- dente, are employed. For the administration of the law there is a Judge (Juez de letras), who tries all civil as well criminal actions. The province sends two deputies to the Chilian con- gress, one from San Carlos, and the other from Castro. At the beginning of the year 1829, the Militia amounted to more than seven thousand men, and the regular troops to three hundred and thirty, which was quite sufficient for the province. ‘The port of San Carlos is capable of being well defended, and, during the time of the Spaniards, was in a good state of defence. The entrance was protected by a battery on the high- land of the Corona, and by the castle of Aguy, which effectually commands it. Farther in, on the same side of the port, was the small, but well-placed, two-gun battery of Barcacura; close under which is the anchorage. On the town side there are several batteries; but, towards the Pudeto it is weak, although capable of being made very strong. Fort San Carlos, which, for some years past, has been used as a cemetery, was well- selected as to position, and constructed in a manner very VOL. TI. T O74 ORIGINAL ESTABLISHMENT. 1829. creditable to the engineer. It was surrounded by a deep and wide ditch; and under it lay two small batteries: one, San Antonio, commanding the passage between the small island of Cochinos, and the Main; and the other flanking the anchorage off the town. At the Mole were two guns, and opposite to it, under the governor’s house, was the battery, Del Carmen, mounting twelve or fourteen guns. In the town, in a convenient situation, there were excellent barracks, capable of containing more than one thousand men. : The original establishment was at the Sandy Point, on the western side of the port, where the situation is better sheltered, and, perhaps, equally capable of being well defended. It is, also, on the windward side of the harbour, and close to the safest anchorage which the port affords; but the inconvenience of water-carriage was found to be so great, that the establish- ment was removed to its present site. A still better situation might have been selected opposite to Sandy Point, at Leche Agua; where the anchorage is perfectly safe, and the commu- nication with Castro could be more advantageously made. Northerly and westerly winds prevail, and the town is exposed to all their fury, which, at times, is extreme. The anchorage nearest to it, for the sake of convenience, and expedition in loading and unloading cargoes, is often taken up, but is very unsafe, many vessels having been lost there, from the bottom being shoal, and rocky; and the swell, during a northerly gale, is so short and deep, that anchors will not hold. The town is built on two rising grounds, and in the valley that separates them; through which a rivulet runs into the bay, at a mole which atiords sufficient protection to the boats and piraguas frequenting the port. The houses, which are all of wood, are generally small, and have but little comfort. The plaza, or square, without which no town in Chile of the least importance is to be found, is situated on a flat piece of ground. at the summit of the southern hill, and commands an extensive view. It is about one hundred and eighty yards square, with a flag-staff in the centre. On the north side there is a strong, well-built stone store- a F u ‘ ¥ i ‘ “ f ; ‘F BS es SAN CARLOS Die y 4 , a Za * & Bs == : \\ | \ ih Hi We pal] : : 4 , Ye ; F i - — WV if i) - il Fi C. Martens S. Bul SAN CARLOS DIE Chil Ole. Pubbished by Henry Colburn Great Marlborough Sireet. 183! 1829. TOWN—DURABLE WOOD. Die house, and opposite to it is the church,:also built of stone. On the side next the sea is the Yntendente’s residence, a low range of wooden buildings, erected without regard to taste, convenience, or comfort; and opposite to this are two or three dwellings, very little superior to common huts, or ranchos. Within the last few years, however, some substantial build- ings have been erected by the more wealthy people in the town, an example which is likely to be followed. During our visit, several were built equally creditable for strength and con- venience; and not a little remarkable for the rapidity, with which they were completed. Wood, being abundant, and cheap, as well as easily worked, is the only material used in the construction of houses, which, with the exception of the provision-store, and the church, are all built of it; and notwithstanding the perishable nature of the material, which is not protected by paint, or any external coating, from the humidity of the climate, they are of extraordi- nary durability. The treasury, one of the oldest houses in the place, has been built upwards of seventy years; and is even now tight, and dry, and by no means unserviceable: but its removal has been ordered, and, probably ere this, it has been replaced by another. In Chacao, where, in former days, the Yntendente resided, the greater number of the government-buildings, not less than sixty or seventy years old, are still standing. This durability can only be accounted for by the nature of the wood, and the practice of charring the ends of the timbers before they are inserted in the ground. The lower frame is of ‘ Roble ;’ () the beams are of laurel, and the floors and partitions, as well as the weather-boarding and shingles, of ‘ Alerse:’ the latter forms an excellent substitute for tiles, or slate, being much lighter, and almost as durable. Some of the houses are thatched, with reeds; but this shift is only used by those who cannot afford the expense of shingling. The inclosures, round the houses, are fenced with stakes of () A kind of beech, found every where on these shores. The literal meaning of Roble, is oak.—R. F. ay ) of 276 CULTIVATION—IMPROVEMENT. 1829. Luma, three or four yards in length, fastened above and below to cross-rails, by ligatures of creeping plants, of which there is an abundance in the woods close to the town: the general name for them is Buque. | The land in the vicinity of San Carlos, which is a peninsula, is cleared of timber, and partially cultivated. In the valley, through which the rivulet runs into the sea near the mole, there are a few attempts at gardens; but the extent to which the inhabitants cultivate, seems to be confined to a rood of potatoes and wheat, which, with a litter of pigs, and an inex- haustible store of shell-fish on the coast, are the principal sup- port of their families. It is not surprising, when so little personal trouble is necessary to provide subsistence, that the Chilotes(e) should not be an industrious race. Byron, in his narrative of the loss of the Wager, has given a most excellent and correct account of the inhabitants of this island; which, excepting for those about San Carlos and Castro, may well serve at the pre- sent time. In the town, trade, a free communication with other parts of South America, and the residence of several Furopeans, have introduced approaches towards refinement; and besides the articles of luxury that occasionally make their appearance, such as chairs and tables, crockery-ware, and similar domestic comforts; shoes and stockings are now, on feast days, in com- mon use among the females; although in many instances one ean easily observe, that the wearer is actuated by vanity, rather than by any comfort or pleasure she derives, from a confine- ment to which her feet have not been accustomed.* This is one of the steps towards civilization, which the Chilote peasantry are making, and among the higher classes ‘el ultimo modo’ (the latest fashion), is not less the theme of conversation than it is in other parts of the Republic. In style of dress, among the upper ranks, the men are more advanced than the women, many having been in other countries. (wu) Native of Chil6e.—R. F. * Agiieros says, “both men and women go generally with the foot and leg uncovered ; with the exception of the principal families ; but even those do not all wear shoes.” —(Agiieros, p. 108.) 1829. DRESS—HABITS—MORALS. rg They have given up the use of the poncho, and in this parti- cular, they say they are before the gentry at Concepcion, who wear it on all occasions : and probably are quite right, for, with respect to comfort, there is much to admire in the poncho, as, of all cloaks, it is the most generally convenient, and the best adapted for protecting the person, especially on horseback, where it is indispensable: its use, however, offers the wearer such an opportunity to neglect the other part of his dress, which it effectually conceals, that sometimes, beneath the pon- cho, the body is very ill-clothed. The dress of men in the lower orders, consists of a pair of trowsers, and a shirt, over which is thrown the all-concealing poncho. The women are as slightly clad; but instead of a pon- cho, they wear a rebozo, or shawl, which, however, is very often dispensed with, and their persons are left too much exposed. These lower classes, or Indians, as they, with much reason, are termed, are scarcely superior to the uncivilized savages of the southern coasts; and live principally upon shell-fish, with what little they are enabled to procure besides by the sale of a few pigs, or poultry, which they rear on the scanty store of potatoes and wheat, that remains after their new crop comes to maturity. One roof shelters a whole family. Father and mother, sons and daughters, dogs and pigs, all live and sleep in their only room, in the middle of which, a fire is made; whence the smoke escapes by numerous apertures in the roof and sides of the dwelling. As to their morals, within the precincts of their habitations, I have reason to believe they have not much to boast of, although they are described, by Agiieros and other writers, as most innocent, and well-conducted. Agiieros speaks highly of their character ; and cites Padre Ovalle, who, writing upon Childe, between the years 1629 and 1636, says: ‘ The natives of these islands are the most docile and noble (dociles y nobles) of all Chile, and are the least given to drunkenness, and other vices; therefore they are best disposed to be edified by the light of the Gospel.” Since the province became subject to the Chilian ueenanlie 278 SCHOOLS—LANGUAGE—PRODUCE. 1829. the government has made several attempts to improve the con- dition of the inhabitants; among which, the instruction of public schools, was not the least important. From an official report there appear to be ninety schools, in which 3,840 children receive an education, according to the abilities of the masters, who are employed ; but these, from the small salary attached to the situation, cannot be expected to be superior. The language in common use, is Spanish ; the original Indian tongue being almost forgotten: but it is supposed to be the same as that spoken by the Indians of Madre de Dios ; for, on a late oceasion, a whaler which had been upon the coast of those islands, and had taken on board an Indian, as a pilot, called at Castro; and during her visit, the Indian communi- cated with those who understood the language of the Chonos, and by them was tolerably well understood. This Indian has been frequently embarked on board American or English sealers, which frequent those coasts, to serve as a pilot to the seal-rookeries.* He is known by the name of Dan. The products of the island, for the year 1828, according to the census, and returns, officially made, were— Wheat.. 64,935 fanegas (175 lbs. in a fanega) about 200,000 bushels. Barley.. 21,645. : Potatoes 194,805. and the muster of stock, and apple-trees, as follows :— Horned cattle: a2. i's) apace 5,411 head. Sheep gas = wind cmine oe oe oi O0,000 SWAN saeco aye piers lord ol ini a sea ue ee OO Apple trees .-.-.....-2-+-+- TD aes The manufactures of the province are Carro, a coarse woollen cloth, two and a half, or three yards long, and three quarters of a yard wide, used for men’s garments, and of very durable quality. f Ponchos—both these and the carro are manufactured by women, in a rude sort of loom, of wool dyed of various colours from plants that are found in the island, or imported for the * Places where seal congregate—so called always by the sealers. 1829. MANUFACTURES—EXPORTS —IMPORTS. B19 purpose. Of the latter indigo is much used, and it is the general colour for the ground-work of the ponchos. _ Frezadas, bordillas, sabanillas, mantillas de Jana, blankets or rather counterpanes of different textures, are also among the manufactures: none of the above are exported, being made merely for their own use. Cables, hawsers, and rope, they make of a plant, called Quili- neja, which is supposed to be the root of a species of Callixene. No wine or spirit is made in the province, but Chicha (a very good.cyder) is manufactured from apples. ‘The only cther fruit produced is the ¢ Frutilla,’ a kind of strawberry. The exports must very nearly amount to the value of foreign imports, which consist principally of sugar, wine, brandy, salt, wearing apparel, and household furniture. The import duty on European and North American produce is twenty-seven per cent.; from which, however, some articles, such as arms and munitions of war, instruments of music, and other things of less importance, are exempt. Spirits of all kinds, foreign wines, tobacco, tea, and cards, are monopolized by the government, and sold at an immense profit. The unauthorized sale of these goods is declared illegal, and is punishable by a heavy fine, and sequestration of goods. The exports, during the year 1828, consisted of wood in beams, planks, and boards; hams, wheat, a small quantity of dried fish, fire-wood, and brooms,* to the amount of 52,320 dollars, of which 35,683 dollars were for wood, and 10,887 for wheat. ‘These articles were exported in sixteen vessels under national, and eight under foreign flags. The exports are said to be increasing very much. In the year 1791, Agiieros des- cribes the exports of alerse planks (tablones) to Lima, to be between fifty and sixty thousand in number; and some years previous to have been ina much greater quantity. The number of alerse boards exported, during the last year, was 328,928, but of planks only 2,623. | The island, and neighbouring part of the inain land, produce * Potatoes are not mentioned in the report, yet they must have been exported iu considerable quantities. ; 280 VARIETIES OF WOOD. 1829. a great abundance, as well as variety, of wood fit for exporta- tion, as well as home consumption. The following is a list of the principal trees, with their qualities, and the use to which they are most adapted. Avellana (Quadra heterophylla), a handsome tree, in ap- pearance like the ash of Europe, of a light wood, which shrinks very much when dry, and may be used with advantage for oars, being light, strong, and springy, as well as for planking small vessels below the water, and for the ceiling within ; it is bad for firewood, being too light. The seed isa nut, about the size of a cherry, the kernel of which is roasted and eaten. . The tree abounds at Concepcion, and in the country to the south, and grows on the Peninsula of Lacuy. Roble (Fagus obliqua, Mirb.), a large tree; and, from the durable quality of its timber, considered the best in the island, for ground-frames of houses, planks for vessels, and beams. The piraguas are built chiefly of this wood. There are two sorts, one an evergreen, and the other a deciduous-leaved tree. It is evidently a beech, and the same that grows in all parts of the Strait of Magalhaens ; the smooth-leafed sort is F’. obliqua of Mirb.—see Bertero, in Mercurio Chileno, No. 14, p. 640. Tiqui, heavy wood ; but esteemed strong and durable. Pira- guas are sometimes built of it. Laurel, used for house building in-doors, for beams and rafters, and posts; durable when not exposed to damp, in which it soon perishes. Manu, a tree of great dimensions, tall and straight, the leaf is like that of a yew; it is a very useful wood in ship-building, for planks, and, next to alerse, is the best for spars which the island produces ; but the large trees have a great tendency to become rotten at the heart, owing possibly to the humidity of the climate, and to the very wet soil. As the Adelaide wanted a mast, I sent her round to Castro for a manu spar, for which I agreed to pay eighty dollars; but of twenty trees that were cut down, not one was sound at the heart. The wood is heavy, with large knots, which penetrate into the trunk to a great depth. A great deal of this timber grows in the Gulf of Penas. 1829. VARIETIES OF WOOD. 981 Muermo. There is no wood produced on the island more useful than the muermo. It is used for timbers, and knees, and all other purposes of ship-building: and is excellent for the planks of boats, as it bears wet and dry without suffering from either. It is abundant, and much used as firewood, for which it is well suited. Luma (Myrtus Luma), avery tough and useful wood, used for tree-nails, for stakes in fencing, for rafters m the roofs of houses ; and is exported in large quantities to Lima, for shafts and poles of carriages. The fruit is sweet, and might yield a strong spirit ; it 1s called cauchao. Ciruelillo, a small tree, used only for washing-bowls and boxes; it is of little value. Quiaka. Of no value. Tapu, a very crooked tree, growing along the ground in swampy places. It might serve for floors, and timbers for small vessels; but it is not used, from its being so very hard. Tenu, something like muermo, and considered a good wood. Peta, a species of Myrtus, of which hoops for barrels are made. Ralral, considered to be like the wood of the walnut-tree, and of general use, on account of its toughness and durability ; it is made into blocks for ships. Meli, more tough than luma: of this the country people make pick-axes, for cultivating the ground (Agiieros, p. 127). Pelu, also tough; useful for axle-trees and gun-carriages (Agieros, p. 127). Mayten, useful for turning ; and lasts long under water. The above mentioned are produced on the island; but the two following, alerse and cypress, are from the main-land, in the neighbourhood of the Cordilleras. They are not only in general use in Childe, but are exported in large quantities to all the ports to the northward. ‘The alerse, near Childe, is of better quality than that which comes from Concepcion. The Cypress is brought to the island in ‘tablones’ (orplanks), seven or eight feet long, two inches thick, and nine or ten inches wide, as is also the alerse ; but the latter, from the facility with 982 PECULIARITIES OF ALERSE. 1829, which it splits, is brought in boards also, four feet long, half an inch thick, and six inches broad, which, as I have before remarked, are the principal articles of barter. The Alerse is found in great quantities near Calbuco; but at so great a distance from the beach that it cannot easily be conveyed thither for embarkation, except in the above form. The tree is cut down and squared, then hewn by the axe into as many logs of seven or eight feet long as it will afford; and these, with the assistance of iron wedges, are split into planks and. boards, in which state, without being further trimmed, they are tied together in bundles, and carried on men’s backs, or dragged over the ground to the beach. The extraordinary straightness of the grain of this tree enables the natives to split it, so as to make it appear as if it had been dressed with an adze, or. even with a plane; but, as I have said, the axe is the only instrument used. So great is the difficulty of obtaining a spar of this wood, that when I wished to procure a new mast for the Adelaide, I offered four times the value of an alerse spar to the natives, besides the assistance of twenty men, and tackles, &c. to assist in convey- ing it to the beach. The temptation was almost too great to be withstood ; but the man to whom I applied, who had before been employed to get masts for a schooner in the Chilian ser- vice, and a flag-staff for the town, said that it would take his ‘own party two months to bring one to the beach: with the assistance of our people, however, it might be done in a month. The trees were distant, and there were two or three ridges of heights to cross, that would cause much delay. The facility with which these people usually handle timber was a sufficient proof to me that such a task, if refused by them, must be very difficult indeed, and I gave it up, as the Yntendente was so obliging as to give me the flag-staff, which had taken the same party two months to procure. The Hoxsley, a national schooner, built at Childe, for the government, was masted with alerse spars, which proved to be very strong. Alerse is used principally for the floors, partitions, and 1829. ROADS MADE WITH LOGS. 283 weather-boards of houses, also for shingling the roof ; for which purpose it is very superior and durable: after exposure to the weather it turns blue, and has the appearance of slate. It does not shrink or warp; and though brittle, is of a very close grain, and well adapted for furniture. Of this wood the country | people make staves for casks ; and the bark of the tree is used for caulking the seams of vessels, for which it answers remark- ably well, being extremely durable when constantly wet, though it soon decays when exposed to the sun and air. Spars of alerse, eighty or ninety feet in length, may be pro- cured ; and from eight hundred to a thousand boards are fre- quently obtained from a single tree. I was told that as many as one thousand five hundred have sometimes been cut out of one trunk. Alerse is found on the island, but not of any size. It is also common in the Strait of Magalhaens, in all those parts west of Cape Froward ; but there, from the poverty of the soil, it is of very stunted growth. The cypress is thought to be a different tree, but I rather imagine it to be only a variety ; the wood being white, whilst that of the alerse is of a deep red colour. As the trade of the island is principally carried on by water, roads are seldom used for that purpose, for which, indeed, the few that exist are far from being convenient. Between San Carlos and Castro there is a road cut through the forest, forty or fifty feet in width, in the middle of which is a causeway, four or five feet wide, formed of logs of wood, laid transversely. This is the only way of communication, unless. which rarely occurs, the weather has been dry during some days ; for, off the causeway, there is a mere bog, in which a horse frequently sinks up to the girths in mud. In many parts of the causeway, indeed, where the logs have decayed, and have not been repaired, the passage is equally bad, so that in wet weather, only persons without a load are able to pass. For the greater part of the way, the trees on each side prevent an extensive view; but on approaching within five or six miles of Castro, the country becomes more open, having been cleared by cultivation, and there, of course, the road improves. 284 PIRAGUAS —CONSTRUCTION. 1829. There 1s a track branching off from the main road to the district of Dalcahue; but on it, I believe, there is no cause- way. As the only mode of supplying the town of San Carlos with provisions is by water-carriage, it is frequently ill supplied during winter, when N.W. winds prevent the arrival of the piraguas. A southerly wind for two days, at that season, brings from fifty to a hundred piraguas from Dalcahue and Castro, laden with hams, potatoes, pigs, grain, fowls, calves, dried fish, and charcoal, which are sold at a cheap rate, paying one-tenth to the government. ) The arrival of so many piraguas at San Carlos creates no slight bustle in the neighbourhood of the mole; and a stranger happening to arrive at the time would think it a place of con- siderable trade ; the return, however, of the N.W. wind, with all its attendant “ vapours, clouds, and storms,” very soon dis- pels the illusion: the piraguas depart, one after another, and mn two days all is dull and monotonous. These piraguas, the boats used by the natives of the archi- pelago of Childe, are all similar in form and material; but vary much in size, according to the voyage they have to per- form. The largest are from thirty-five to forty feet long. The head and stern are alike, and resemble those of a whale-boat; being sharp at both ends. ‘The transverse section is that of a thick wedge, so that they have no bearings, and must be extremely unsafe,(v) particularly with so lofty a sail as they hoist; and yet these vessels have made long, and even dangerous passages, as is fully attested in Agueros’s account of the mis- sionaries’ visit te the archipelago southward of Tres Montes. These boats are literally sewn together, there is not a nail used in their construction; every portion of the hull is of a vegetable nature. The lower, or garboard strake, is sewn to the keel by strips of the stem of a creeping plant, called Pepoi,* and the seam is caulked with bark of the alerse, which, while under (v) When moderately laden they are stiff under sail; and are not such very bad sea-boats, if properly managed.—R. F. * Molina, i. 167. A species of ‘ Dolichos.’ 1829. AGUEROS'S DESCRIPTION. 985 water, is admirably adapted for the purpose. ‘The upper plank- ing consists of three or four broad boards on each side, sewn together, and their seams caulked. The wood of which they are made is the roble, or sometimes tiqul. Agiieros’s description of the construction of a piragua cannot be improved. “ They are constructed of five or seven planks, each of which is from two to four fathoms long, half or three- fourths of a yard wide, and two or three inches thick. These are fashioned, or worked, narrow at each end, so as to form the bow and stern, and afterwards are exposed to the fire, in order to burn the outer surface on both sides. To unite these planks, they bore or burn holes, two inches from each other, along the edges of the planks, through which they sew them together with a rope of solid reeds (soquillas), or twisted cane (coligues), forming a junction as close as a seam of cloth. To prevent water from passing through the seams, they apply along the plank, within and without, pounded leaves of trees, over which they pass the stitches, and with the same prepara- tion of leaves the holes are filled up. Thus constructed, it is in appearance a perfect boat, or vessel, but without keel or deck. That they may resist the pressure of the water, and retain their shape, curved pieces (curbas) of wood, called ‘ barrotes’ are fitted inside, and fastened by wedges of wood, instead of nails. For all this, they are dangerous; and, since their sails, oars, and other furniture are very inferior to what boats require, they are much exposed to be easily sunk, and the risk is greatly increased by want of care and management in those who navi- gate them.” In the above description Agiieros has given a very good account of the rude manner in which they are built, and has not in the least magnified the danger attendant on their use. It is, indeed, a miserable and unsafe vessel; and for the rudeness of its construction, and the poverty of its equipment, is a per- fect prototype of the crew which it conveys. The largest have from eight to ten people, each of whom furnishes one poncho, and the ‘patron,’ who steers, and directs 986 PIRAGUA’S SAIL—PLOUGH. 1829. the course and all their movements, provides two ponchos, all which are sewn together to form their sail, which is hoisted by ‘lazos, or thongs of bullock’s hide. These sails are generally in a wretched state, the name San- tisima is applied to them all by the crews, with the hope of securing the protection of their patron saint. The anchor is of wood, formed of four crooked pieces, in the shape of a grapnel with four flukes, at the bottom, or crown of which a large stone is fastened, to increase its weight. ‘The crews are cachemhaly timid, and instead of making exertions to extricate their vessel from any impending danger, they throw themselves on their knees, beating their breasts and calling pia upon their saint, for ‘ misericor ae I was given to understand that very few of them can swim> which seems extraordinary, since they are born and bred in the immediate vicinity of the sea, and depend chiefly upon its productions for subsistence. The fact speaks strongly for the indolence of their character, even although the rigour of the climate forms a bar to bathing as a mere amusement. Several piraguas were lost while we were at Childe, and, as may be inferred, their crews were all drowned. With regard to the cultivation of land, they are very far behind, and, comparing the present state with the description of Byron (1740), and of Agiieros (1791), very little improve- ment seems to have been made. The ground is prepared by make-shift ploughs, of a very rude construction. 'I'wo poles of hard wood (luma), about three yards long and proportionably large, trimmed to a sharp point at one end and rounded at the other, are held by the middle, one in each hand, and pointed very obliquely into the ground; in this direction they are forced forward, by pressing against the blunt end with the abdomen, which is defended by a sheepskin, suspended in the form of an apron. After these have penetrated twelve or four- teen inches into the soil, a second person, generally a woman or ‘a boy, places a stout stick under the poles, or ‘lumas,’ as they are called, close to the earth, to form a solid support for them. t oS QEQr 1aAny We snoI0g; WW ssetQ Wittgyos ‘AsrayT AG Poysygn | JOD LY OINIMSTOI LS¥aua Woospusy Ty eS 5 SSS a So 1829. SOIL—CORN—POTATOES. 287 The large ends are then forced down, the ground turned up, and the lumas pushed forward again, while the woman uses her stick to turn the clods over, to the right and left, alter- nately. These clods are afterwards broken up by a wooden tool, in the shape of a pick-axe, called ‘ hualate,’ made of the wood named meli. Rude as this process is, the operation is rapidly performed, and I have seen a field, ploughed in this way, that would not do much discredit to an expert plough- man with a European plough. , The soil is a rich, sandy loam, of a dark red colour; and although rarely, if ever manured, produces fair average crops. According to the usual allowance of 175ibs for a fanega of wheat,* the weight of a bushel would not be more than 514lbs., which shews that the grain is but poor. Wheat is sown in the month of April, and cut in the same month of the following year ; but from the humidity of the climate, and constant rain, particularly at that season (the commencement of winter), it is frequently reaped before it is ripe, and almost always gathered in wet. Every subsequent sunny day is taken advantage of, to dry the grain, but a part must be spoiled by mildew. The evaporation, however, is so great, that merely moving it about, and keeping it thinly strewed in granaries, will effect much. It is trodden out by oxen, and to clean it, the grain is thrown up in the wind by means of broad wooden shovels, and effec- tually separated from the chaff. This rude winnowing takes place frequently in the principal streets of San Carlos, and even at the mole, where one would suppose that a great deal must be lost; but from the adroitness of the operation, it is not only well cleaned, but suffers no diminution. Potatoes are planted in September, October, and November, and are fit to dig up in May. Of the proceeds of harvest, one-tenth is paid as a tribute, or * The fanega weighs 175lbs. and contains twelve almudes, which being cubic measures of eight inches and a half, contain each 614-125 cubie inches; therefore a fanega contains 7369-5 cubic inches, and as an English bushel contains 2150-4 cubic inches aries ==) 5] ©. lbs. the weight of a bushel, 988 FORCED CONTRIBUTIONS—BIRDS. 1829. tax, to the government; but forced contributions may be required, when the necessities of the state demand them. These contributions are sometimes unfairly levied in Chile; for the subsidy is only taken from those who possess grain, or some equally tangible article which can easily be turned into money ; so that persons who are rich enough to live without culti- vating land, or trading for their support, contribute nothing towards the emergency of the State. How does this accord with republican principles ? or how can a republican govern- ment, so conducted, expect to become respectable among nations ? I am not aware that such contributions have yet been levied in Childe. From the character of General Aldunate, I do not for a moment think he would commit such an act of injustice ; but it is in the power of any Yntendente to call for them, and I afterwards witnessed an example of this, during my visit to Concepcion. A considerable quantity of wheat, purchased by a Russian vessel, for the use of their settlements on the coast of California, was brought down to the port, at a time when the government was much in want of money, and knew no just way of obtaining it. They therefore very unceremoniously seized the wheat, and applied its value in dollars to their own use, giving only an uncertain, almost a nominal security to the owner for the recovery of his money. The only way of accounting for such an arbitrary proceeding is, that the country was distracted by civil war, and that the person who owned the property was opposed to that party, which at the time happened to have the upper hand, and which held, by main strength alone, the reins of government. Among the birds of Childe, the most remarkable are the ‘Cagge,’ the ‘Cancania,’ or ‘Canquena,’and the * Barking bird.’* * Molina notices the ‘ Cagge,’ or ‘Chilée duck,’ (Anas antarctica) vol. i. p. 263, and calls it Anas hybrida. M. Lesson, in his ‘ Manuel d’Ornithologie,’ ii. 409, has taken great pains to describe it, and remarks, with reason, that much obscurity exists in the specific descriptions of the goose kind in the Malouine (Falkland) Islands, and the extreme southern land of America, The male, Lesson says, is white, the feet and beak of a bright SHELL-FISH. 9g9 The shell-fish,* for which this island is justly famed, are principally brought from Calbuco, and consist of the finest a bright yellow colour. All the specimens that we saw, and numbers were killed by us, had a black beak with a red cere—otherwise M. Lesson’s description is correct. In many specimens, however, we found the tip of the primary wing feathers black, which is not to be wondered at when the colour of the female is considered, but which it is not an easy task to describe. M. Lesson, I think, has done it justice in a note to his vol. ii. p- 409 :—* Anas antarctica. A capite griseo, genis gulo colloque albo et nigro acuti-striatis; oculorum circuitu nudo: pectore abdomineque omnino atris, atque vittis niveis notatis : tectricibus alarum nigris; dorso uropygio cauda et ano albis; alis niveis cum speculo lato virescente, brun- neo marginato; pennis longis aterrimis; rostro et pedibus, aurantiacis.” These birds are very common in the Straits of Magalhaens, and every where on the west coast between the Strait and Childe; also at the Falk- — land Islands, The Cancania (or Canquena) is the Anas Magellanica, Anser Magella- nicus (Ency. Méth. p. 117). From Buffon’s description, and a well-drawn but badly-eoloured figure, in the Planches Enluminées, No. 1006, I have no hesitation in assigning it to that kind. The colour of the head, how- ever, instead of being ‘reddish purple,’ is cinereous with a reddish hue ; the feathers of the sides and thigh covers are white, with five black bars, the extremity being white; the central portion of the abdomen is white ; the speculum of asplendid shining green, This bird is common to the Strait as well as to Childe, and is probably Byron’s ‘ Painted Duck,’ and the dnser pictus of the Ency. Méth., p. 117. M. Lesson considers Anas leucoptera, Gmel. as the male of Anas Magellanica, which may be doubted. The ‘ Barking Bird,’ as our sailors called it, was first brought to me by Capt. Stokes, having been shot during the Beagle’s visit to Port Otway, in the Gulf of Penas. It was an imperfect specimen; but Mr. Tarn afterwards obtained for me several others. It seems to have a great affinity to the genus Megapodius ; but no specimens of that genus being in England when I was last there, and the Barking Bird differing in essential points from M. ’Tenminck’s deseription of the genus, and from the figured specimen of Megapodius Freycinettii ;—particularly in the length and form of its wings, which are rounded, and so short as not to reach beyond the base of the tail ;—also in the emargination of the upper mandible ;—I have been in- duced, by Mr. Vigors’ advice, to form it, provisionally, into a new genus, termed Hylactes. (See Proc. Zool. Soc., vol.i. p. 15.) There is another spe- eimen in our collection (now in the Zoological Society’s Museum), which will probably be placed in this genus, but there existed some uneertainty in essential points, whieh prevented my describing it before J left England. * Among the numerous testaceous productions is a small shell, which VOL. I. U constitutes 900 SHELL-FISH. muscles, of which there are two sorts: the Choro (Mytilus Choras, Molina), and Cholgua (Mytilus Magellanicus, La- marck ), Picos (Balanus psittacus nob. Lepas psittacus Mo- lina, 1, p. 223), a large barnacle,* and the oyster (O. Kdulis), which is exceedingly well-flavoured. Besides which there are several kinds of shell-fish of less value, but equally abundant, such as Navajuelas (Solen sp.) ; Caracoles (Z'urbo) ; Cornes (Pholas Chiloensis, Molina) ; Campana (Calyptrea) ; Lapas (Crepidula); 'Tacas (Chama Thaca, Molina); Locos (Con- cholepas Peruviana, Murex Loco of Molina) ; Quilmagues ; Piures (Pyura sp. Molina); and others. The apparently inexhaustible abundance of shell-fish with which nature has provided the inhabitants of these islands, the facility with which they are obtained, and their consequent cheapness, is the principal cause of that want of industry which is so remarkable in the Chilotes. Of the above-mentioned shell-fish, those deserving more par- ticular notice are the large muscle, the oyster, and the pico. Molina has described the choro of Concepcion, which is not at all different from that of Childe. It is often found seven or eight inches long. The fish is as large as a goose’s egg, and of a very rich flavour: there are two kinds, one of a dark brown, and the other of a yellow colour ; but the last is most esteemed. There is also another sort, much larger than the choro, yet equally delicate and good, the fish of which is as large as a swan’s egg: it is called cholgua;, but as the shells seem to be of the same species, I think the distinction can only be owing to size. In Febres’s Dictionary of the Chileno language, the word constitutes a new genus. Marinula, nob. in Zool. Journal, vol. v. p. 343. It was found on the wooden piles which support the mole in the bay of San Carlos, below the wash of the high water. The mole stands out into _ the sea, and there is no fresh water near it, save a very little rill, which discharges its tiny stream more than fifty yards off. This shell was named Marinula Pepita, Zool. Journal, 1. c. No. 43. The following is its generic character :—‘ Testa ovato-producta, sub-solida; apertura ovata, integra ; columella bidentata et basin versus uniplicata; dentibus magnis sub- remotis conniventibus, superiori maximo; operculum nullum.’ * Zool. Journal, vol. v. p. 333. \ SHELL-FISH—OYSTERS. 9901 cholchua is rendered into Spanish by “ cascara de choros blan- cos,” or shell of the white muscle. Cholhua, or cholgua (the letters g and h are indiscriminately used), must be a corrup- tion; for it is now used in Childe to distinguish the large from the small choros. The manner in which the natives of these islands, both In- dians and descendants of foreigners, cook shell-fish, is very similar to that used for baking in the South Sea Islands, and on some parts of the coast of New Holland. A hole is dug in the ground, in which large smooth stones are laid, and upon them a fire is kindled. When they are sufficiently heated, the ashes are cleared away, and shell-fish are heaped upon the stones, and covered, first with leaves or straw, and then with earth. The fish, thus baked, are exceedingly tender and good; and this mode of cooking them is very superior to any other, as they retain, within the shell, all their own juiciness. The oyster, which is a true Ostrea edulis, is found in beds, at low water, or taken with the dredge. It is about the size of the native oyster of England, and not at all inferior to it in flavour. In Agiieros’s account of Childe, he notices this excel- lent shell-fish ; but remarks, that the islanders are ignorant of the value at which it is appreciated. It is rather curious, that, excepting in the neighbourhood of Childe, the oyster is very rarely to be met with on the South American coast, while there it is in the greatest abundance. We have never observed any shells of this fish anywhere between the river Plata and Chi- l6e; nor is it known elsewhere upon the western coast, I believe, to the southward of Guayaquil, which is very near the equinoctial line.* The oyster-shells at Port San Julian are fos- sils. Of the Linnean genus, Ostrea, there are many sorts, on all parts of the coast, both east and west, but they are what we call the pecten or scollop. At Coquimbo, a species of scollop is much used as an article of food, and called oyster ; but it has no further right to the name than because Linnecus classed them all as Ostrea, and Molina describes this to be Ostrea edulis. * Some have since been found on the north-east side of the Guaytecas Islands. u 2 292 ~ SHELL-FISH. The pico, which is a barnacle, grows to a very large size ; at Concepcion, however, it is still larger, being six or seven | inches in length. It has, when properly cooked, very much the flavour of a crab, and by the inhabitants of this Archipelago is considered preferable to any other shell-fish. Before concluding this imperfect description of the shell-fish of Childe, the piure claims some consideration, if it be only for its peculiar and disagreeable appearance. It was considered by Molina as a genus allied to Ascidia (Mol. i. 214), none of the varieties of which are inviting in their look, as an edible sub- stance, but the piure is still less so. It is thus described by Molina: “ The piure, scarcely deserving the name of a living animal, is as remarkable for its figure, as for the manner in which it is lodged. 'The body is about the size and shape of a small pear, an inch in diameter; or it may be described as a small, conical, fleshy bag, of a red colour, filled with saline liquor, and provided with two trunks or processes in the upper part, one of which is the mouth, similar to that of the Tetias ; and between these processes are seen two small, black, and shining points, which are supposed to be the eyes. I could distinguish no other organs, nor any viscera in the fleshy sub- stance of which it 1s composed, which is smooth without and spongy within. They are extremely sensitive, and when touched, spout water out of both apertures. These small animals are shut up in a firm, but glutinous case, of various shapes ; one case often contains eight or ten distinct bodies, separated from each other by cells, formed of a strong membraneous substance. They are attached to rocks or stones, under water, excepting when left uncovered by a low tide. The natives eat them boiled, or roasted in their shells. They also dry them for exportation to the province of Cusco, where their flavour is much esteemed, and considered equal to that of the lobster.” At Childe, the piure is said to be a remedy for barrenness ; and to such an extent has this idea prevailed, that a Chilote woman, eating this fish, literally says, if asked what she is doing, that “she is making children.” One would not, how- ever, suppose, from the number of children which are seen HEALTH—REMEDIES—CLIMATE. 293 crowding round the doors, that the Chilotes had any necessity for such food. If one may judge from the few applications made to our medical men for advice, the climate is either very healthy, or the natives prefer their own mode of cure. ‘They have very few medical advisers, and those few are not held in much estimation, being people of little or no education. A prejudice against medical men has been, even in late years, extended to foreign practitioners, and carried to great lengths. This ilhiberal feeling is, however, fast wearing away ; but, among the lower orders, the application of herbs and other simples is yet wholly resorted to for the removal of their complaints. One day, when I was employed in making some astronomical observations, at Sandy Point, a woman passed me, and forcing her way through a thicket of thorny plants, began to gather branches of a spe- cies of arbutus (4. rigida.), a small shrubby plant, which is every where abundant, especially to the south, and in the Strait of Magalhaens. My curiosity prompted me to inquire her rea- son for collecting it with such apparent anxiety. She replied, with a desponding air, “It is chaura* for a poor, sick child. These branches,” she said, “ are to be put into the fire, and, being green, will produce a thick smoke, and yield a very strong aromatic smell. The child, who is only five months old, is to be held over it, which, as they say, is a good remedy ; ‘but,” she added, with an air of doubt, “ I know not (dicen que es bueno, pero yo no sé).” “ Who says so?” I asked. “ Los que saben (those who know),” replied the half-credulous mother, with a deep sigh, partly doubting the efficacy of the remedy, but unwilling to lose the advantages of whatever virtue it might . possess, for the benefit of her sick infant. The climate of Childe is considered, by those who live in other parts of Chile, to be “ rigorous, cold, and damp.” Cer- tainly there is much reason for such an opinion, particularly in the winter months, when it almost always rains, and the wind, with little cessation, blows hard, from N. to N.W., and, “ Chaura, Una murta que no se come. Febres, Dict. of the Chileno language. It is, however, edible, and has rather a pleasant flavour. Q94 CLIMATE. by the W. to S.W.; but notwithstanding the great quantity of rain that falls, the evaporation is great, and it cannot there- fore be called unhealthy ; indeed, from experience, it is con- sidered quite otherwise. Agieros, to whose excellent account of Childe I have so often referred, dilates much upon this subject, and from having resided there a considerable time, may be taken as the best authority. Those who now reside upon the island speak very much against it, and all whom I met, previous to my visit, condemned it, as being “ the worst in the world.” Perhaps we, who had lately been experiencing a much more disagreeable climate, went to Childe with the expectation of finding it exceed in severity that to which we had been accus- tomed in the Strait of Magalhaens, but we found ourselves agreeably mistaken. Our visit certainly was in the better season, and we had, perhaps, no right to form a decided opinion upon the other part of the year. I shall, therefore, first quote Agieros, and then describe what we found the weather from September to December; yet as these months were considered by the inha- bitants to be finer than is usual at that season, we can only form a vague idea of the spring and summer. For the autumn and winter I must depend upon the accounts of others. After explaining the contra-position of the seasons, to what is experienced north of the equator, with regard to the months of the year; Agiieros says, ‘Childe has also its four seasons, but does not enjoy the benefit of those changes, as do other parts of Chile ; for there is neither that abundance of fruit, nor are its fields adorned with so many and such beautiful flowers, and useful medicinal plants. ‘The summer is the best time ; for in the month of January, from ten o’clock in the morning till three in the afternoon, the heat is excessive. Between these hours, however, a sea-breeze, which is called ‘ Vira-zon,’ re- freshes the air. In the winter the temperature is very cold ; but the frosts are by no means so severe as in Europe. I have never seen ice, even in the small streams, nor does snow lie any length cf time on the ground. ‘‘ In the winter months, as well as in other parts of the year, there are falls of rain, and heavy gales from N.N.W.., and west, CLIMATE. 295 which last frequently for the whole moon, with scarcely a ces- sation, and the wind, at times, is so furious, that the houses are not secure, and the largest trees are torn up by the roots. The weather, when it is fine, cannot be depended upon for any length of time; not even in summer; for in the month of January I have frequently experienced gales, and rain, as severe and copious as in the winter. During the summer months southerly winds are more prevalent, and, while they last, the weather is fine, and clear, and the air particularly dry. ‘“¢ Although the winter months, and a considerable part of the other seasons, are very disagreeable, owing to the severity of the winds, and exceeding quantity of rain, it cannot be denied that the climate is healthy. In Childe no epidemic diseases are experienced. ‘he small-pox and measles are not known ;* nor have tertian fevers, so common in the north, ever been expe- rienced on the island. Spotted fever (tabardillo), and acute pains in the stomach, are the only disorders to which the inha- bitants of this archipelago are subject. Thunder and light- ning are rarely experienced ; but earthquakes have occurred at intervals. In the year 1633 the church and houses were de- stroyed, and in the year 1737 much damage to the village of Isla grande was caused. by earthquakes.” So far Agiieros. On the whole, the climate is not so unfa- vourable as we had been led to expect from all that we had heard. Captain Fitz Roy arrived there in July, during the latter part of which, and the month of August, the weather was very wet, with some heavy gales from the N.W.; but in his Meteo- rological Journal for those months there is no record of the thermometer falling below 38°, and it is recorded to have fallen to that degree only on one occasion, the general height being from 45° to 50°. The first part and the middle of September were boisterous and wet; but towards the end of the month the wind was chiefly from the southward, and the weather dry and * The small-pox was introduced into the island, in the year 1776, by a ship from Lima; but it was confined to San Carlos, and was soon eradi- cated. The measles also were introduced by similar means, in the year 1769; but did not re-appear after once ceasing. 296 CLIMATE. extremely fine. In October it was rather changeable ; but for the last ten days, with the exception of one, on which there was a fresh gale with a heavy fall of rain, it was fine and dry, and the winds were moderate. The month of November was generally fine, but the first half of December continued tempestuous and wet. ‘The mean temperature of the months, and other metevrological remarks, are as follows: Remaining in & = PA the gage at | | : A end of month. | oT i i Quantity l l g a R & evaporated. oS om m x [e 8) EY lop) pa | Quantity fallen, | | ee) = oe = g i (=) ive) ee | Rain. | | | ~ > © Q a) : hi Be = Fine. | | ts i cues + es : : = — Weight of a @ = e ~ cubic foot of air, | | en) or 8 2) ae) or) + = } a < Dryness by | | oe Z = = Thermo. Scales. S 2 = a oo) oo fe 0) pS) = E i | | © en © = xpansion. © g © I ed sa) 4 ne On a ee > é e e e « © 1) bal a > @ sf Dew Point. | | S 9 & @ Pressure 3S S = os [ep reduced to 32°, a | & me a Q a) RQ NR ‘ ey) fs i e $s S i o 5) © = = | | a) Se) = Pa % Oo 5 ; 19 19 ra oud s | 3 | = on oD fs _# © é © o me ¢ BO. fos) 5 . : a | «ft | es%2 ‘Sto | : © S< oe SCS | oF eae e | m > 9 ~~ om ~~ oO mn } 4 is = = 5 3 a e a) - ° w | = ° e : ir “ S _ (<=) x = a on ae) on on = = > 8p =] aD > = = = a oO ° 3 o at < 75) o Z CLIMATE. 2907 This table partly shows the state of the weather during three spring months. The greatest quantity of rain in the gage at the end of the month of November did not exceeed 2°6 inches. At St. Martin’s Cove, near Cape Horn, after thirty days’ obser- vation, the rain-gage contained eight inches; so that although Childe bears the character of being a very wet place, it 1s not one-third so bad as Cape Horn. The time of our visit to San Carlos was certainly the finest part of the year; and I believe that the weather we experienced was unusually dry even for the season; therefore, the above table does not present a fair criterion of the climate: I do not, however, think it is by any means so bad as has been represented. CHAPTER XVII. Childe the last Spanish possession in South America—Freyre’s Expe- dition — Failure—Second Expedition under Freyre and Blanco — Quintanilla’s capitulation—Chiléde taken—Aldunate placed in com- mand—Chilée a dependency of Chile—Beagle sails to sea coast of Tierra del Fuego—A delaide repaired—A delaide sails—Adventure goes to Valparaiso—Juan Fernandez—Fishery—Goats— Dogs—Geology— Botany—Shells—Spanish accounts—Anson’s voyage —Talcahuano— Concepcion —Pinoleo—Araucanian Indians— Re-enter the Strait of Maghalhaens—F uegians. ‘Tue island of Childe was the last place the King of Spain pos- sessed in South America ; and even to this day he is not without friends there, who would gladly restore his absolute monarchy, notwithstanding the advantages that are acknowledged to have | been derived from the change of masters, and the consequent opening of trade, which has added very much to the comfort, as well as civilization of the inhabitants. During the struggle for independence, this island was too distant from the seat of war to render it important ; but when all other parts of Chile were freed from the king’s troops, the new government despatched an expedition, consisting of between three and four thousand men, commanded by the Director- ‘General Freyre, to attack it. Upon the appearance of this expe- dition off the harbour of San Carlos, the Spanish governor, Quintanilla, was inclined to capitulate; but, instead of anchor- ing in the roads, the squadron proceeded to Chacao, landed troops there, and despatched some of their forces to Castro, where they were repulsed by the Spanish and native troops, and obliged to re-embark. In this interval, one of the ships left the squadron, and returned to Valparaiso, whence she was imme- diately ordered back ; but meanwhile the Director had embarked his troops, and returned to Concepcion. Not long afterwards, in January 1826, a second expedition, under the same general, sailed from Valdivia, convoyed by a strong squadron, under the command of Admiral Blanco. 1826. CHILOE TAKEN BY THE CHILIANS. | 209 ‘Upon this occasion the troops landed, on the 8th, at the little inlet of the Bay of Huechucucuy ; and Fort Corona was immediately taken. On the 10th, the disembarkation of the troops was completed. A battalion was left to mask Fort Aguy, while a force, under Colonel Aldunate, passed on, and took the battery of Barcacura. On the 10th, Admiral Blanco shifted his flag; and, leaving the O'Higgins outside, stood into the bay with the rest of the squadron, which anchored off Barca- cura. “< The governor, Quintanilla, with upwards of three thousand Royalists, took up a strong position on a hill, at the S.E. side of the bay, flanked on the left by an impenetrable wood, on the right by the shore, and supported by three gun-boats in shallow water. These were taken by the boats of the squadron, under Captain Bell, and turned against the Royalists. Their position was thus enfiladed, and they retired. Freyre then advanced: some skirmishing took place: Quintanilla capitu- lated ; and the territory of Chile was no longer sullied by the Spanish flag. “« Colonel Aldunate, Majors Maruri, Asagra, and 'Tupper (a native of Jersey) ; and Captain Bell, of the navy, greatly distinguished themselves.”—Miller’s Memoirs. Colonel Aldunate was afterwards invested with the govern- ment of the island; but, owing to the disaffection of the troops, who were urged on by the King of Spain’s agents, a revolution took place, Aldunate was imprisoned, and afterwards sent to Valparaiso, and the Spanish flag once more waved in Chiloe. It was, however, for a short time only ; Aldunate was des- patched once more, and with a small force of three hundred veteran troops, headed by Colonel Tupper, and accompanied by the Aquiles, brig of war, again obtained possession of the island, which he has since kept, though not quietly, for the Royalists were constantly on the alert, and made several futile attempts to recover the place for their king. ‘Time has now reconciled the greater number to the change; and, I believe, Childe may be considered a contented dependency of the re- public of Chile. 300 BEAGLE SAILS—ADELAIDE REPAIRED. Nov. 1829. The Beagle being ready to resume her voyage, sailed on the 19th of November to survey the southern coasts of 'Tierra del Fuego; after which, she was to rejoin the Adventure at Rio de Janeiro.* | As the Adelaide had received some damage in getting aground, it was requisite to lay her on the beach for examina- tion and repair. Her mainmast, also, was found to be sprung so badly, as to render a new one necessary ; which we should have found much difficulty in obtaining, but for the kindness of General Aldunate, who, finding that we were at a loss, pro- posed to give us the flag-staff of the town, a beautiful spar of alerse, that was in every way suitable. Previously, however, to accepting his offer, being aware that such an act might expose him to much reproach from the people of the town, who were all very proud of it, I caused inquiry to be made whether a spar of the necessary dimensions could be brought from Cal- buco; and in the meantime we proceeded with the repairs. A creek behind Sandy Point offering every convenience for heaving her down, the Adelaide was moved into it, and laid on the beach. On stripping her copper off, the injury proved to be considerable ; but not beyond our means to repair. Upon examination, the foremast was found to be in a bad state, but could be rendered effective by fishing it with the sound portion of the other mast, therefore our only real difficulty was to get a mainmast. From the account I received from Calbuco, I found that, without a great delay, not less than two months, and sending a portion of our people with ropes and tackles, there was no chance of procuring a spar: it could only be obtained at a considerable distance from the shore, and when felled must be dragged over several high ranges of hills, which might be called mountains, before it could be got to the water-side. General Aldunate, through whom this inquiry was made, then renewed his offer of the flag-staff, which I accepted most thank- | fully ; and by his order it was taken down, and conveyed to the ship, soon after which it was converted into an excellent mainmast for the schooner. Before it was moved, a new, but * See orders to Captain Fitz Roy, in the Appendix. nll A | ul uu \ WD | i i ni | I } = SNS aan *" . 7 Atay nt ) | | | ! hth i : | ; f i! , Ay iM AH dike Ye in i ) I i iN ‘ihe REGAIN = Dec. 1829. ADELAIDE AND ADVENTURE SAIL. 301 shorter staff, with a topmast, was fitted for the flag; notwith- standing which, many unpleasant observations were made, and absurd reports circulated, which spread to Chile, and even to Peru, that the English were about to take possession of Childe, and had already removed the flag-staff of San Carlos. By Lieutenant Mitchell’s activity in superintending the Adelaide’s repairs, she was got ready for sea at the beginning of December, and sailed on the 8th, under the command of Lieutenant Skyring, with orders* to survey those parts of the Gulf of Penas which had not been examined by the Beagle; particularly the River San Tadeo, in San Quintin’s Sound ; the openings behind Xavier Island; the Channel’s Mouths; and the Guaianeco Islands, where the Wager was wrecked: and then to proceed down the Mesier Channel, behind the Island Campana, which was supposed to communicate with Concepcion Strait, by the Brazo Ancho (or Wide Channel) of Sarmiento. He was then to go to the Ancon sin Salida, examining al] the openings into the main land, on his way, and search for a communication with the large waters, discovered by Captain Fitz Roy, through which he was to try to enter the Strait, and join the Adventure, at Port Famine, during the month of April. : Lieutenants Skyring and Graves again took with them, by Captain Fitz Roy’s permission, Mr. Kirke and Mr. Bynoe, of the Beagle; Mr. Alexander Millar and Mr. Parke also accom- panied them. Having thus despatched our companions, we prepared, on board the Adventure, to return to Valparaiso; intending to proceed to Rio de Janeiro; by way of Concepcion, Port Famine, and Monte Video; for the sake of adding some links to our chronometric chain: with a view to which, I had taken the opportunity of having the chronometers cleaned at Valparaiso by Mr. Roskell, agent for Messrs. Roskell chronometer-makers at Liverpool. General Aldunate being on the point of returning to Valparaiso, I had an opportunity of obliging him, and show- ing my sense of the assistance, and essential kindness we had * See orders to Lieut. Skyring, in the Appendix. 302 JUAN FERNANDEZ. Jan. Feb. 1830. received, by offering him and all his family a passage m the Adventure, which he accepted ; and on the 17th we left Childe. In our way we touched at Concepcion, and anchored at Valparaiso on the 2d of January. We remained there until the 11th of February, and then sailed on our return to Rio de Janeiro, with the intention of passing though the Strait of Magalhaens, and taking that opportunity of completing some few parts, which our former surveys had left unfinished. As the breeze, which, on this coast, blows with the constancy of a trade wind, would carry us close to the island of Juan Fernandez, I determined upon visiting it, for a few days; and then proceeding again to Con- cepcion. We reached Cumberland Bay, on the north side of Juan Fernandez, on the 16th, and anchored, within two cables lengths of the beach, in ten fathoms. I have seldom seen a more remarkable and picturesque view, than is presented by the approach to Juan Fernandez. When seen from a distance, the mountain of the ‘ Yungue’ (Anvil), so called from its resemblance to a blacksmith’s anvil, appears conspicuously placed in the midst of a range of precipitous mountains, and is alone an object of interest. It rises three thousand feet above a shore, which is formed by an abrupt wall of dark-coloured bare rock, eight or nine hundred feet in height, through whose wild ravines, broken by the mountain torrents, views are caught of verdant glades, surrounded by luxuriant woodland. The higher parts of the island are in general thickly-wooded ; but in some places there are grassy plains of considerable extent, whose lively colour contrasts agreeably with the dark foliage of myrtle-trees, which abound on the island. The Yungue is wooded, nearly from the summit to its base ; whence an extensive and fertile valley extends to the shore, and is watered by two streams, which take their rise in the heights, and fall into the sea. This valley appears to have been formerly cleared and culti- vated by the Spaniards, who had a colony here ; for the stone Feb. 1830. FISHERY—DEFENCE—PRODUCE. 303 walls, which served to divide their enclosures, still remain. _ From Walter’s account of Anson’s voyage, and the view given with it of the commodore’s tent, there is no difficulty in deter- mining this valley to be the spot on which his encampment was placed. | The island is now (1830) occupied, or rather rented from the governor of Chile for a term of years, by Don Joachim Larrain.. The establishment consists of a superintendent (mayor- domo), there called, ‘ the governor ;’ and forty persons, who are employed in the seal and cod fishery, and in drying fish for the Chilian market. Their dwellings are erected on the flat land, at the north side of the bay, where the soil is richer than in other parts ; and where it 1s more sheltered from the squalls, which, during strong southerly gales, rush down the valley of the Yungue, the situation of the former establishment, with great violence. The remains of a fort, called San Juan Baptiste, are yet in a tolerable state ; and from an inscription on the wall, it appears to have been repaired, or completed, in the year 1809. It is situated on a rising ground, about one hundred and thirty feet above the sea, at the S.W. part of the bay, and over- looks the village; there are now no guns mounted, but, with a few, it might be made very effective in a short time; and, from its situation, would command the bay. In the middle of the beach are some ruins of a four-gun battery, and there are also traces of a fort at the N.W. end of the bay. At present, except wild-goats, wild peaches, figs, abundance of fish, and excellent fresh water, no refreshments can be pro- cured. An establishment of forty persons, with very little to do, might naturally be expected to cultivate the land, raise vegetables and fruit, and rear poultry and pigs, to supply the vessels, which frequently touch here for wood and water; but it is not the character of the Chileno to take any trouble, unless obliged, although his own comfort and advantage may be materially concerned. The mayor-domo, however, told me that their attempts to 304 FISH—GOATS—DOGS. Feb. 1830. cultivate the soil, and raise potatoes, had been defeated by the destructive ravages of a worm. By sending a boat to the east point of the bay, to fish in forty fathoms water, a most delicious kind of cod-fish may be taken, in such numbers, that two men, in half an hour, could fill the boat. Craw-fish, of large size, are almost equally abundant ; they are taken with a hooked stick: one of our boats caught forty-five in a very short time. The inhabitants catch them, and cure their tails, by exposure to the sun, for exportation to Chile, where they are much esteemed, and fetch a high price. Wild-goats are very numerous among the inaccessible parts of the island, but are not easily obtained ; they are sometimes shot, or taken with alazo. 'These animals, according to Woodes Rogers, and other writers, were originally left on the island by Juan Fernandez, who, for a short time, lived there. Accord- ing to the ‘ Noticias Secretas, p. 50 to 56, they are supposed to have been landed by the Buccaneers, who frequented this island. Certain it is, that, without such refreshments, the Buc- caneers would not have been able to carry on their harassing war of plunder against the Spanish possessions on the American coast to such an extent; nor should we, perhaps, have heard anything more about Commodore Anson, and the crews of the Centurion and Gloucester, who were, on their arrival at this island, in the last stage of scurvy. To prevent Juan Fernandez from being so tempting a resort to Buccaneers, the Viceroy of Peru caused a great many dogs to be landed, which hunted down and destroyed the goats in great numbers: this in some measure has prevented their subsequent increase. The dogs however drove the goats to places where they could not follow them, and were then obliged to destroy seals for food. Large troops of these dogs still range about the lower grounds; but the heights are in the undisturbed possession of wild-goats ; which may be seen in numbers brows- mg on elevated and almost inaccessible places, where they live in safety. The geological character of this island, according to Mr. Caldcleugh, who accompanied me in this trip, is of basaltic Feb. 1840. GEOLOGY—BOTANY. 305 green-stone, and trap, which appears, at first sight, to be vol- canic ; but, on a more particular examination, the lava-like appearance of the rock does not seem to arise from an igneous origin. The green-stone is full of crystals of olivine, which, as they decompose, leave hollows, resembling those of scorize. Mr. Cald- cleugh communicated an account of the structure to the Geo- logical Society.* In Captain Hall’s interesting journal, there is a list of Geological and Mineralogical specimens, of which one from Mas-a-fuera} is named ‘ Vesicular Lava.’ May it not be this same rock in a decomposed state ? The late Signor Bertero, whose botanical collections from Chile have enriched many of the principal herbaria in Europe, accompanied me to make a collection of the Flora of the island ; and he considered that the character of the vegetation was very little allied to the Chilian, but partook more of that of California. The sandal-wood, which has been described as indigenous to this island, was not found by us, growing, but a large quantity was collected about the hills and vallies, in a dry state, and apparently very old. It is of the red kind, and still preserves a strong scent. The mayor-domo told me there were no sandal-wood trees in the island ; but we had reason to think his information was incorrect, for one of the inha- bitants would have taken us to a place where he said they were growing in large quantities, had not our arrangements for sail- ing interfered. The island produces several kinds of grass; but the most abundant herbaceous plant is a species of oat, which grows very luxuriantly, and towards the westward covers the ground for many miles. The neighbourhood of Cumberland Bay is over-run with strawberry plants, wild radishes, mint, and balm, besides peach, apple, cherry, and fig trees, which are * Phil, Journal, and Annals of Philosophy, for March 1831 (new series x.), 220. | + Juan Fernandez is called ‘ de Tierra,’ because it is nearer the main- land than another adjacent island, which is called ‘ Mas-a-fuéra’ (farther off, or more in the distance). VOL. I, xX 306 SHELLS—SPANISH ACCOUNTS. Feb. 1830. found wild every where, and remind one of Lord Anson’s visit. * Not only in its botanical productions does this island differ from the Chilian coast, but also in its shells: the shell fish being extremely scarce, and dissimilar in character. On the rocks we found a patella and a small chama, but we saw no mytilus. From the deep water I fished up some coral, and attached to one fragment was a new species of arca.- The fish- ing-lines brought up, from the depth of eighty fathoms, a branch of coralline, to which an infinite number of a species of caryophyllia were attached. The existence of coral is mentioned in Mr. Barry’s translation of the ¢ Noticias Secretas de Ame- rica; por Don J. Juan, y Don A. de Ulloa,’ a work which con- tains a long and, generally speaking, good account of the island; but their description of the anchorage does not agree with ours. They say, “ The distance between the two points, which form the bay, is two miles, and its depth about half a league; and, although the depth is nearly the same in all parts, the best berth to moor ships is in the front of the ¢ Playa del Este ;’ but it 1s necessary to be close to the stones of the beach, for at one or two cables’ length there are fifty fathoms water, and the outer anchor is in the depth of seventy or eighty fathoms ; but if the vessel is three or four cables off, it will be necessary to drop the outer anchor in one hundred fathoms, which, even with two cables an end, will scarcely secure the ship.” Now, at three cables’ length from the beach, we had only ten fathoms, our outer anchor was dropped in seventeen fathoms, and in a line between the two points of the bay there is not more than fifty fathoms. If the accounts of those Spanish officers were correct, the earthquakes, which certainly affect these islands, must have caused a considerable uprising of the base of the island; but, on referring to the plan in Anson’s voyage, the soundings in 1741 do not appear to have been different from ours. The innermost ship, whose berth we occupied, is, in that plan, at anchor in * Anson’s Voyage, p. 118. 7 Arca angulata. See Zool. Journal, vol. v. p. 336. Feb. 1830. ANSON’S VOYAGE—SEAL—BIRDS. 307 nineteen fathoms, and the depth between the points of the bay is shown to be about fifty fathoms. There are few persons who have not read, with much interest, Mr. Walter’s account of the Centurion’s voyage, and who are not well acquainted with his description of this island, which we found exceedingly correct. The views of the land, although old-fashioned in execution, are most correctly delineated, and the plan of the bay is quite sufficient for every common pur- pose of navigation; but as we had an opportunity of fixing its latitude and longitude more correctly, it became desirable to make a more detailed plan than Commodore Anson’s. The seals and sea-lions, which were so abundant formerly, are now reduced to such a small number, as to make the seal- fishery scarcely worth notice. They have been destroyed by taking them indiscriminately, without regard to age or sex, leaving none to propagate the race but those who by chance escaped. At present the island is let to a tenant, who is not permitted to kill them until the young have taken to the water, by which means an opportunity is given for them to increase. I am not aware that there are any indigenous animals. Dogs, goats, and rats, have been imported. Land birds are not nume- rous ; some pigeons, said to have been imported, and a few hawks, are occasionally seen, besides three species of humming- birds, two of which are new to science.* Of sea-birds we saw very few; but were informed that the ‘ Goat Islands,’ at the south-west end of Juan Fernandez, are completely covered by them at the breeding season. During our stay, several excursions were made, in various directions, from the village, and much facilitated by beaten paths, one of which leads up a valley, westward of that of the *Trochilus Fernandensis, nob. Troch : ferugineo-rufus ; capitis vertice splendento-coccineo ; remigibus fuscis. Long. 5 uncias. Trochilus Stokesii, nob. Zroch: corpore supra viridi-splendente, subtus albo, viridi-guttato ; capite supra, guitisque confertis gule lazulino-splenden- tibus: remigibus fusco-atris ; remigum omnium, mediis exceptis, pogontis internis albis. Long. 43 uncias. Proceed. Zool. Society, vol. i.; also Phil. Magazine, for March 183], p. 227, <2 308 WILD GOATS—TALCAHUANO—CONCEPCION. 1830. Yungue, and thence to a pass over the principal range, com- municating with the other side of the island. This pass, called the Puertozuela, is 1,800 feet high, and was visited several times by the officers. On one occasion, they went to the wes- tern part of the island, to hunt wild goats. The party set out in boats with the mayor-domo, or governor, as their guide ; but before they reached the proper landing-place, became so impatient that they landed,intending to walk back. ‘The gover- nor, however, persevered, and returned, in the evening, with five fine she-goats, which he had taken with ‘ lazos.’ Our pedes- trians found their return by no means so easy as they had contemplated, being obliged to pass the night in a cave, which they fortunately found at sunset, and they did not reach the ship until the following afternoon, fatigued, but much pleased by their ramble. The thermometer on board ranged, during the day, between 63° and 82°, and the barometer between 29-98, and 30:16. On shore the thermometer stood higher, in fine, unclouded wea- ther, and lower when the summits of the hills were covered with clouds. We put to sea on the 22d, anchored at Talcahuano on the 3d of March, and sailed again on the 17th, to proceed through the Strait of Magalhaens. While at Concepcion I had an opportunity of seeing Pino- leo,* the Indian chief, from whom Captain Basil Hall endea- voured to obtain the release of a captured Araucanian female, whose husband had been murdered in cold blood before her eyes. Mr. Rouse, our consul, procured for me the necessary in- troduction, and, with one of the governor’s aides-de-camp, accompanied us to the Indian quarters, situated on the out- * Pinoleo (from ‘ Pino,’ pisando; and ‘leo,’ rio; or, pisando sobre el rio, living close to the banks of ariver), is the Chief of a small tribe, whose territory is near the River Imperial; but he generally lives in the confines of Concepcion. He has four wives in the interior (la tierra) and three in the town. + Hall’s Extracts from a Journal, vol. i. pp. 316, 322. March 1830. PpINOLEO—ARAUCANIAN DRESS. 309 skirts of the town, towards the river Bio-Bio. We found the chief’s residence (little better than a rancho, or hut of the country), surrounded by Indians, some of whom were armed ; and at the door were his two daughters, young, and rather good-looking, whose persons and dress we had leisure to examine, whilst waiting the chief’s pleasure to receive us. ‘They were clothed with a mantle, or wrapper, of green baize, enve- loping the body from the neck to the feet, and fastened at the breast by a toup, or tupu* (a silver pin, or skewer, headed with a round silver plate, three inches in diameter), over which hung a string of beads. Their hair, which was remarkably fine and clean, as well as neatly dressed, was divided into two plaited tails (‘trensas’), and their foreheads were ornamented with a broad fillet, worked over with beads.- ‘They also wore neck- laces, bracelets, ear-rings, and anklets of similar manufacture. Our names having been announced to Pinoieo, he came to the door to receive us, and invited us to enter. Some of our party he recognized, and seemed pleased at their visiting him. We were early, and found him sober ; but from his bloated and haggard appearance, it seemed that he had not been long so. On entering the hut, we observed a number of Indians, scarcely sober, seated round, near the walls. Some turbid wine was presented to us, in a silver cup, which we sipped as it passed round; but the last of our party knowing that to return the cup without emptying it, would be an offence, was obliged to drink the contents, and a bitter potion they were. Pinoleo was then stout and rather corpulent, five feet ten inches in height, of a fairer complexion than the generality of his countrymen, and had lost much of his hair. He had laid aside the Indian * In Febres ‘Arte de la lengua de Chile’ they are thus described “Ahujas grandes con una plancha redonda de plata como una hostia, 6 mayor, con que prenden las mujeres sus mantas—Certain large bodkins, with around silver plate, as large as, or larger than, an oyster, with which the women fasten their mantles.” + The ornament on the forehead, which is worn only by unmarried women, is called Trare-lonco, from the old Chilian words trarin, to fasten, and lonco, the head. The bracelet is called Anello cure; the anklets, Anellco. 310 ARAUCANIANS—DEPUTATION. March 1830. dress, and wore the deshabille of a Spaniard, a shirt and pair of trowsers, in a very slovenly manner. He spoke Spanish with great facility, and appeared to be quite at his ease in conversa- tion. He has the rank of lieutenant-colonel in the Chilian army, and receives pay, as a retainer for his friendship. A very short visit was sufficient to satisfy us, and we took the first opportunity of retiring, for fear of a second cup of wine. While leaving the hut, we were beset by some of his followers, asking for money. The Indian quarter is a scene of drunkenness the whole day; the women, however, are pre- vented from thus injuring themselves; they are industrious and cleanly, and are principally occupied in the manufacture of ponchos. ‘These Indians are frequently at war with other tribes, who live on the south side of the Bio-Bio river, and who have never yet been conquered by white men, of which they are not a little proud. (w) | These Araucanians are by no means to be despised. The Cacique Mariloan,* who resides near San Carlos, on the Bio-Bio, has three hundred fighting men under his own command ; and from the influence he holds over neighbouring Caciques, could bring upwards of one thousand men into the field. Upon the occasion of a late revolution in Chile, a deputation of chiefs was sent by the Araucanian Caciques to inquire into the cause of those disturbances, of which they had received intelligence. They first asked for an interpreter, whom they cautioned to give a true and literal translation of their speech; and then they made a long harangue, in which they explained the cause of their visit, and declared their willingness to assist. their friends, if their aid should be required, to expel a foreign foe ; but if the troubles were caused only by the quarrels and dissen- sions of parties, they would not take an active part. They were then given to understand that an attempt had been made by one party to put down another, upon which they declined assisting either. ‘The conference being ended, some horses were (w) Notsince the first Spanish conquest, perhaps.—R. F. * From ‘ Mari,’ diez, and ‘loan,’ huapo: whence Mariloan means ‘huapo como diez,’ or, ‘equal to ten men.’ 1830. . INDIAN FEAST—PINE—ENTER THE STRAIT. 311 slaughtered and skinned. Large holes were dug, and The skins put into them, to form substitutes for vessels, into which barrels of wine were poured, and the Indians commenced their feast of horses’ flesh and turbid wine, which threw them rapidly into a state of excitement and intoxication, that lasted some hours after the wine was all drunk. In this neighbourhood, the Araucanian pine (Araucaria imbricata) is found, but very few of the trees grow near the sea. One beautiful specimen which I saw in a garden was, at least, forty feet in height, with branches sweeping the ground. The cones of these trees, called pinones, are brought to the town from the mountains where they grow, and are roasted, to be sold in the streets. On the 31st of March, the land about Cape Lucia was seen, and at noon it bore E. b. N., distant twelve miles, when the wind ceased, and a heavy swell setting us towards the land, made our situation an anxious one. A breeze, however, sprung up, and by carrying a press of sail, we succeeded in gaining an offing before dark. The night was very squally, but next morning (1st April) the weather was better, so we stood in, and made the Evangelists, which were seen from the mast- head, at a distance of twenty-two miles. Between these islands and Cape Pillar we found a most turbulent sea; yet no sooner had we entered the Strait, than the water became perfectly smooth. I intended anchoring in the Harbour of Mercy ; but the night proved fine, and the wind was so favourable, that we proceeded by the chart, using a patent log, and passing within two miles of the headlands. Sail was reduced as much as possible, to give us space sufficient to run on during the night, steering E. 2? S. by compass. Towards midnight the weather became cloudy, and occasionally the land was concealed from our view. Abreast of Cape Tamar, and as far as Cape Providence, some sharp squalls raised a sea, rather heavy, considering we were in the Strait ; but afterwards the water became smooth again. Off the latter cape, the patent log indicated a distance run equal to that shown by the chart, which proved that we had 312 PLAYA PARDA—ABRA—RORJA. April 1830. experienced no current. At daylight we were in the entrance of the ‘ Long Reach,’ abreast of Cape Monday. While passing the opening opposite to Playa Parda, a schooner was observed at anchor, and a boat was seen coming out to us. It contained the mate of the schooner Industry, of New Bedford, who informed us that she had been lying there, weather-bound, for nearly a month. He came to make inquiries about good anchorages to the westward (having already lost two anchors), and to learn in what part of the Strait he was ; his own idea being, that the vessel was under Cape Monday. Having given him the required information, we proceeded ; but the wind fell light, and we were glad to anchor in the cove of Playa Parda. With our chains we found it safe; but the bottom, being rocky, would probably do much injury to hempen cables. The opening opposite to us, where the schooner was lying, was evidently Sarmiento’s ‘ Abra.’ It appeared to us to be a mile and a half wide, with an island in the entrance. Within, it seemed to take a south, then a south-west direction, and afterwards to trend round a low hummocky point of the eastern shore, under a high, precipitous ridge, on the opposite or wes- tern shore, towards the S.E.; beyond this its course could not be observed. When passing through this part of the Strait, Captain Stokes found the weather so bad, that although the distance across was only two or three miles, the shores were often concealed by clouds and rain, so as to render it impossible for him to make any survey of them. We were detained the two following days by bad weather. On the 5th we proceeded, but before we got abreast of Snowy Sound, heavy rain set in, which lasted all day. As we passed Borja Bay, a schooner was observed at anchor in it, so like the Adelaide, that we altered our course to com- municate with her. From a boat which came off to us, we learned that it was a sealing-vessel, called the Hope, of New York, going through the Strait, from Staten Land. She had . seen nothing of the Adelaide. When abreast of Bachelor River, a canoe, containing two 1830. FUEGIANS——PLANK CANOES—PECHERAY. 313 men and two women, came out to us; but we did not delay long, and at five the anchor was dropped in Fortescue Bay. As it did not appear that the Adelaide had preceded us, I determined upon remaining, to make a chronometric measure- ment from Port Gallant to Port Famine; and the next morn- ing Lieutenant Graves landed, and obtained a set of sights for time. In the early part of the day, two canoes, containing eight or ten Fuegians, entered the bay. They came from the west- ward; but we did not recognize among them any of those who visited the ship as we passed Bachelor’s River. Several had red baize shirts, and some had ¢ Union caps,’ such as are supplied to our men-of-war; which they must have procured from the Beagle or Adelaide, or from the Chanticleer, at Cape Horn.(#) After hanging about us all day, they landed at sunset, and took up their quarters in some old wigwams in the inner harbour. The canoes of these natives were very different in their con- struction from any we had seen to the eastward. Instead of being paddled, they were pulled with oars; one of which was an ash oar, probably obtained from some sealing-vessel. The canoes were large; at the bottom was a plank, twenty inches wide, to which were sewn the sides, in the manner of the pira- guas, and they were caulked with bark, in a similar way. We did not remark any thing peculiar among these people which we had not perceived in other natives of Tierra del Fuego, except that they frequently used the word ‘ pecheray,’ a word particularly noticed by Bougainville, who thought that it meant the name of the tribe ; and, in consequence, the Fue- gians have been often called Pecherays. On one of the officers cutting a lock of hair from a woman’s head, the men became angry, and one of them taking it away, threw half of it into the fire, and, rolling up the other portion between the palms of his hands, swallowed it.’ Immediately (x) I believe that the natives who have canoes of the kind described above, do not go near the Hermite Islands, on which Cape Horn is situated.—R. F. 314 PECHERAYS—MOUNTAIN DE LA CRUZ. 1830. afterwards, placing his hands to the fire, as if to warm them; -and looking upwards, he uttered a few words, apparently of invocation: then, looking at us, pointed upwards, and ex- claimed, with a tone and gesture of explanation, ‘ Pecheray, © Pecheray. After which, they cut off some hair from several of the officers who were present, aud repeated a similar cere- mony. From this fact, one might suppose the word to be connected with their ideas of divine worship; but we had heard it used for so many opposite things, that I could not consider it of so much importance as some of the officers were inclined to think it. The next day a party ascended the Mountain de la Cruz, to deposit a pewter plate, on which were cut the names of the ship and officers. At the summit they found the pile of stones made by Captain Fitz Roy, which they left undisturbed ; but made another, in which a bottle was placed, containing the little Spanish coin, and copies, on vellum, of the memorials we had formerly taken from it, also several English coins, and some medals. The bottle was corked, covered with resin, and enveloped in sheet lead. Our party returned in the evening, having been seven hours in going up and descending. The next day I obtained an angular measurement of the Mountain de la Cruz, with a theodolite, having measured a base of 2,608 feet, which gave for its elevation 2,364 feet, {4 feet more than Captain Fitz Roy’s barometrical determi- nation. During the day several Fuegian families had arrived, and, by the evening, ten canoes, containing altogether about sixty natives, were collected. I landed to visit them, for I had never before seen so many assembled. We entered all the wigwams but one, which was said to be occupied by a woman in labour. In the opening stood her husband, painted all over with a red ochrous earth, and his head and breast ornamented with the white down of birds. The other Fuegians called him ‘ Peche- ray ; and appeared to consider him, while in the character he had assumed, as a being superior to themselves. April 1830. CONCOURSE OF NATIVES. 315 Hence, there evidently is something of a superstitious nature connected with the word; but our frequent attempts to find out its precise meaning, were unsuccessful. On repeating this expression to a group of natives, one of them immediately coughed up a piece of blubber, which he had been eating, and gave it to another, who swallowed it with much ceremony, and with a peculiar guttural noise ; then, looking up, and pointing with his finger to the skies, solemnly pronounced the talismanic ‘Pecheray.’ This word is also used in pointing to the sun. On the 10th April, [ went to Charles Islands, and surveyed them. There is very good anchorage for a small vessel, in eigh- teen fathoms, at the north end of the passage which separates them; and at the bottom, or elbow, under the eastern island, in thirteen or fourteen fathoms. ‘The next day, a fresh arrival in two canoes increased the number of Indians to eighty; rather a formidable body for a small vessel to encounter. They con- ducted themselves, on the whole, very peaceably, but seemed determined that our curiosity should not be gratified by find- ing out the contents of the ‘ tabooed’ wigwam. It was always guarded by the ‘ Pecheray,’ who seemed ready and determined to dispute all access to it, by means of a heavy club. One of the midshipmen, however, with a little coaxing, persuaded the man to let him put his head in; but those who were inside, having received their lesson, threw ashes in his face, and nearly blinded him. After this, seeing they were determined on the point, I desired that no further attempt should be made to ascertain what was really going on inside the wigwam. Wesailed the next day (11th), not without some apprehension that the Adelaide might meet this large concourse of Indians before they separated ; as Port Gallant was a place rarely passed by vessels without stopping, and the natives being all housed behind a point of land, could not be seen until too late. We were abreast of Cape Froward at noon; in the evening we anchored in French Bay, and next day (13th) reached Port Famine. As | purposed remaining until the Adelaide should arrive, the tents were set up, the boats landed for repair, and the transit instrument was set up, in the hope that a comet 316 TROUBLESOME NUMBER OF FUEGIANS. 1830. might be visible, which we had seen in our passage from Con- cepcion to the Strait; but the weather was at first too cloudy, and afterwards the comet itself was too faint to be discerned.* On the 21st, nme canoes arrived in the bay, containing a large party of Fuegians, principally those who frequent the Magdalen Channel, and probably the sea-coast. They had generally shown themselves disposed to be mischievous, and I determined upon preventing their encamping near us; for their presence would greatly impede our watering and wood- ing parties, by distracting the attention of the people. I, there- fore, went to meet them at the watering-place, under Point St. Anna, where they had landed, near one of our boats which was on the beach. Among them we only recognised three who had visited us before, and those three were brought to our remembrance by their former misconduct. I had always made it a rule to treat them kindly, with the view of obtaining their good-will ; but I found it was the wrong way to gain their respect, for it only made them expect more from me, the con- sequence of which was, that when we separated, neither party was pleased with the other. I used on this occasion a more dic- tatorial tone than I had hitherto done; for, seeing several with slings in their hands, and a collection of large, round pebbles wrapped up in the corner of their mantles, I desired them to throw the stones away, which they did not hesitate to do. The Indians were now all landed, and evidently presuming upon their numerical strength, upwards of eighty being assembled, began to make themselves very familiar. I thought it best to check their advances, by desiring them not to visit the side of the bay where our tents stood, but to go round Point St. Anna, to an adjoiing cove. ‘They seemed to understand me perfectly, and soon afterwards embarked, while I returned on board. The natives, however, landed again, in the middle of the bay, at the north side, and there encamped. Next morning, the men of the tribe visited our tents, but found them surrounded by a rope I had caused to be fixed, * The same comet was seen at the Mauritius; and its orbit calculated. See Ast. Soc. Proceedings, and Phil. Journal. April 1830. QUARREL WITH THE NATIVES. 317 and which they were not permitted to pass. At noon, after observing the sun’s transit, I went to the barrier, and while the people were at dinner, endeavoured to amuse our visitors, who were from fifteen to twenty in number, by showing them several trifles ; among the rest, a pocket set of coloured glasses, belonging to the transit. They looked through them at the sun, but handled them rather roughly, and broke the frame ; upon which I expressed my anger, and turned: them away. Soon afterwards, however, I walked towards them, and select- ing the Indian who had offended me, gave him a bunch of beads, and thus restored peace ; but desired them, at the same time, to go to their wigwams, which they did. In their way, they mischievously broke down a part of my meridian mark ; seeing which, I sent a carpenter, attended by a marine, to repair it, and went myself to inspect its being again set up. The natives were collected round it, evidently in expectation of my being angry, and awaited my approach. Upon my coming near, I showed them that I was much displeased, and ordered them into their canoes; when one of the party, muttering a few words, picked up a stone from the ground, and was fixing it in his sling, when I took the marine’s musket, and presented it at him, upon which the whole took to their heels ; the principal offender and another ran along the beach, and the rest to their canoes. I could not resist the opportunity of letting them know we were prepared for them, by firing over the heads of the two who were running near the water. The report of the musket attracted the attention of Lieutenant Mitchell, who was on board on the look-out, expecting some fracas would, sooner or later, take place; and seeing four or five canoes paddling across, and the two Indians running along the beach, he manned a boat, and pulled towards the canoes, which tried to evade him, and stones were thrown at him as he ap- proached. A musket fired over their heads, soon quieted them, when he pulled round their canoes, to show them they were in his power, but did not molest them, and then allowed the party to proceed. This affair alarmed the women-at the wigwams, and hastily 318 QUARREL WITH THE FUEGIANS. April 1830. gathering up their ‘effects, they hurried into their canoes, and joined the others, who all paddled round Point St. Anna. 'The men, however, landed there, and remained on shore, armed with slings, spears, and bows, ready to defend themselves, and, by their gestures, defying us to land. No attention was paid to them, and, after a short time, they went over the hills to the coves on the north side of the point. As we had now openly quarrelled, I thought it better that they should keep at a distance; and therefore, taking two boats, pulled round the point, to tell them to go five miles farther, to Rocky Bay ; but the canoes were already beached, and the women had taken up their quarters. As we approached, the hills echoed with the screams of the women and the shouts of the men ; all of whom, stark naked, armed, and daubed with white paint, their heads being stuck full of white feathers, hastened down to the point of the bay. The place, from its nature, offered a good defence, as the beach was lined by large rocks, behind which they could conceal themselves from our view, and yet assail us with stones. When within a few yards of the beach, we held a parley—the object of which was, that they should go farther to the north- ward; to this they vociferously replied, by desiring us to leave them. Seeing there was no chance of enforcing our demand, without shedding blood, I ordered the boats away ; and on get- ting about a musket-shot from the beach, one of the Fuegians threw a stone, which fell close to us. In an instant, every one of them was concealed behind the rocks; but we returned their fire, and another large stone fell within two feet of the boat. A second musket was fired, and another stone was returned, with equal precision. After the interchange of a few more stones for bullets, they ceased throwing them, and we returned on board. It was very unlikely that any of our shot took effect ; for we were at a long distance, and could only see their heads above the rocks. Fortunately, none of the stones struck us, for they were large enough to have caused a severe bruise. It is astonishing how very correctly they throw them, and to what a distance. When the first stone fell close to us, we all thought ourselves out of musket-shot. 1830. NATIVES DRIVEN AWAY—A CAUTION. 319 The next morning, five or six natives were seen crouching down among high grass, on the hill over our watering-well, waiting for the people to go for water ; probably with the inten- tion of assailing them, for it appeared afterwards that their slings and bows were in readiness. To show them they were not out of our reach, I caused a six-pound shot to be fired over their heads, which, as it went high above them, made no impression. The gun was then pointed lower, and another ineffectual shot fired. A third, however, fell close to them, when they jumped up, shook their mantles in the air, with the most violent gestures, and, apparently in a furious rage, scampered off; but the last man, before he disappeared, threw an immense stone, which did not reach one quarter of the distance. We saw nothing more of the natives until the evening, when Lieutenant Mitchell, who went to look for them, found they had moved away to Rocky Bay, where they had encamped on the open beach. The next day, I sent him to endeavour to make peace, which he very easily effected, by the interchange of a few trifles. After this we had much bad weather, during which most of the Indians kept close to their wigwams; but a few occasionally communicated with our watering party, quite peaceably, as if nothing had happened. A day or two after, the weather im- proved, and the Fuegians dispersed, probably for want of food, some going to the northward, but the greater part along shore to the southward. These people pointed upwards to the sky, when they were going away, repeating the word ¢ Pecheray.’ This was our last interview with the wretched Fuegians. Naturally petulant and quarrelsome, they are also ever intent upon mischief ; the fear of punishment alone restraining them. Weakly-manned vessels passing through this Strait should always avoid them, if they are numerous; for unless they are given what they want, they try to steal it, and any consequent punishment probably brings on a quarrel. Their conduct, and servile bearing, at our first seeing them, gave them an ap- pearance of being timid and inactive; while, in reality, they 320 SLINGS—FIRING—CUNNING. April 1830. are the very reverse. Had we attempted to land on the last occasion, I do not think we should have effected our object, without receiving some severe contusions from their stones, which they sling with such extraordinary precision and force : so much so, that I consider the sling, in their dexterous hands, to be equal to a musket in ours. Indeed, with many of us, a native would have had the advantage. It has been too much the practice, when obliged to fire upon them, to fire over their heads ; by which proceeding the savages are led to consider our weapons as so uncertain in their effect, that they become much depreciated in their estimation. It would be almost pre- ferable to inflict a slight wound, in order to show the nature of our arms, and as a warning against further hostilities. When the Uxbridge, sealer, was at anchor in a harbour in the Magdalen Channel, some Indians, who were on board, . angry at being ordered out of the vessel at sunset, threw stones at the person who was walking the deck, as they returned to the shore. Several muskets were fired over their heads, at which they expressed neither fear nor concern ; but paddled leisurely away, and the next morning came off again to the vessel, as if nothing had happened. At Port Famine, Duclos Guyot had a skirmish with natives, the particulars of which are described in Dom Pernetty’s History (ii. 653). Three of the Indians were killed, and three of the French were severely wounded. It may be here remarked, that the chief’s name, according to M. Duclos Guyot, was ‘ Pach-a-chui,’ which is not unlike ‘ Pecheray ;? the women were called ‘ Cap, cap,’ probably a mistake for ‘ Cab, cab ;’ which evidently means ‘no, no!’ for it was an expression we frequently used, and was never misunderstood. Their cunning is sufficiently proved by the theft of the Adelaide’s boat, in St. Simon’s Sound (page 142). The absence of the Fuegians permitted us to move about a little; and among other places, we visited their late encamp- ment at Rocky Bay, our approach to which was offensively indicated by a most sickening smell. On our way, I found two fossils ; one was very interesting, bearing the appearance of a May 1830. FOSSILS—ADELAIDE ARRIVES—SAIL. 321 large orthoceratite:* the other was a Venus. From Rocky Point we descried a strange sail, which, by her movements, we thought must be the Beagle: I returned, therefore, and sent Lieutenant Mitchell out to her. She arrived in the evening, but proved to be a ship belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, called the Dryad, bound to the Columbia River, and last from the Falkland Islands. She came to wait for Mr. Low, of the Adeona, who had promised to pilot her through the Magdalen Channel. The Adeona arrived on the 3d of May; and the following day, to our great joy, the Adelaide hove in sight : and being becalmed, was towed to an anchorage. The result of her cruise proved to be very interesting, although no communication had been discovered between the ‘ Ancon sin Salida,’ and the Skyring Water. The only loss they had sustained was, however, a severe one; Mr. Alexander Millar having died of inflammation in the bowels. The death of this promising young man threw a damp over the happiness we felt at meeting again, after having so nearly completed this long and tedious voyage. We had, for some days, been getting ready for sea, and now hastened to complete our preparations. The Dryad, after re- ceiving some assistance from us, sailed in company with the Adeona, and passed out to the Pacific, by going through the Magdalen Channel. 'The day afterwards we took our final de- parture—crossed the shoal that extends off Magdalena Island, in five fathoms, sailed on rapidly, and passed Gregory Bay at noon. Seeing us approach, a large party of Patagonians, at least a hundred in number, assembled at the usual place of communication ; but as both wind and tide were in our favour, and we could derive no novel information from them, we con- tinued on our course. The Indians were probably much morti- fied and disappointed; but all on board were delighted by avoiding the anticipated delay. We showed our colours to them, but I dare say our friend, Maria, was not very well pleased with my want of courtesy, in passing by so old an acquaintance * They are deposited in the Museum of the Geological Society. VOL. I. Y 922 LEAVE STRAIT—REACH RIO DE JANEIRO. 1830. without a salutation; or, what she coveted much more, such presents as she had always received when we anchored. Just before entering the First Narrow, we passed through a furious ‘ tide-race,’ which broke over the Adelaide, and not a little impeded her progress. No accident, however, was the consequence ; and a rapid tide, running at the least nine knots an hour, swept us through the Narrow, and round the reef off Cape Orange: after which we proceeded rapidly, and rounded Cape Virgins at ten p.m., not a little elated by leaving behind us, with no expectation of ever seeing it again, the famous Strait of Magalhaens. Our voyage to Monte Video was rather long ; but we delayed there only to water the ship, in the usual place, off Cape Jesu Maria, and then proceeded to Rio de Janeiro, where we awaited the arrival of the Beagle. Our anxiety for her safety, during so hazardous a survey as that of the sea-coasts of Tierra del Fuego, was soon removed, by hearing that she had touched at Monte Video; and, on the 2d of August, our consort was seen entering the harbour ; when we were delighted by find- ing all well on board, and the little vessel quite ready for sea, having refitted on her passage. CHAPTER XVIII. Adelaide’s last cruise—Port Otway—San Quintin—Marine Islands— Unknown river or passage—San Tadeo—Isthmus of Ofqui—San Rafael—Sufferings and rotite of the Wager’s party—Channel’s Mouth —Byron—Cheap—Elliott—Hamilton—Campbell—Indian Cacique— Passage of the Desecho—Osorio—Xavier Island—Jesuit Sound— Kirke’s report—Night tides— Guaianeco Islands—Site of the Wager’s wreck—Bulkeley and Cummings—Speedwell Bay—Indigenous wild potato—Mesier Channel—Fatal Bay—Death of Mr. Millar—Fallos Channel— Lieutenant Skyring’s illness —English Narrow — Fish— Wigwams—Indians—Level Bay——Brazo Ancho—Eyre Sound—Seal —Icebergs—Walker Bay—Nature of the country — Habits of the natives—Scarcity of population. I wit now relate the principal incidents of the Adelaide's last cruise. The following pages contain extracts from Lieu- tenant Skyring’s journal, and also notices obtained from other sources. The Adelaide sailed from Childe on the 8th of December 1829, made Cape Tres Montes on the 14th, and anchored in Port Otway the same evening. Of this place Lieutenant Skyring writes : “ Good anchorage, wood, water, and shell-fish (such as muscles and clams), Port Otway affords: but no more. Excepting in one or two sandy bights, a landing is hardly to be effected; walking along shore is impossible, and it is scarcely practicable to enter the country, the land being so thickly wooded, from the summits of the hills down to the water-side. No soil is to be discovered ; the shrubs, and even the trees, which are of large growth, rise out of moss, or decomposed vegetable substances. ‘The climate is very wet ; none but amphibious animals were seen, among which hair-seals were numerous. There were very few birds, excepting turkey buzzards; and not a trace of human beings ; indeed, I do not believe Indians ever go there—(y) they rarely leave thedirect channels; as a proof (y) For evidence that Indians have been thereabouts, see Byron’s account of the cave entered by the surgeon of the Wager. I believe that curious place was either in, or close to, Port Otway.—R. F. pig BIA SAN QUINTIN—TADEO—OFQUI—RAFAEL. Dec. 1829. of which, some articles left by the Beagle, in a conspicuous place, were found by us untouched.” During the Adelaide's stay at Port Otway, the openings on the east side of Hoppner Sound were explored, yet they proved to be only small inlets. Mr. Kirke examined some, which appeared to communicate with San Quintin Sound ; but found them to be merely chan- nels dividing the group of the Marine Islands,* excepting the most southern, which is the entrance of Newman Inlet, a deep bight, without anchorage, but abounding with hair-seal. From Byron’s Narrative it would appear, that there is a channel somewhere hereabouts communicating with the Gulf of San Rafael, to the east of the Peninsula of Tres Montes ; for the Indian guide wanted to conduct the Wager’s barge through it, but was prevented by the strength of the current. The Adelaide sailed from Port Otway on the 18th, and the same evening reached San Quintin Sound, anchoring opposite an opening northward of Dead-tree Island, that proved to be the mouth of the River San Tadeo, by which Byron and his unfortunate companions effected their escape to Childe. The sufferings of this party, which are so affectingly described im Byron’s narrative of the loss of the Wager, made so deep an impression on our minds, that I thought it not irrelevant to the object of this voyage to endeavour to trace their steps. Among the numerous incidents that occurred to them, the passage of the ‘ Desecho,’ or carrying-place over the Isthmus of Ofqui, is, from all the circumstances connected with it, one of the most interesting. It may be remembered, that, upon the departure of Captain Cheap, and his shipwrecked crew, from the place of the wreck (Byron’s Narrative, p. 69), they proceeded round the shores of the Gulf of Penas, with an intention of tracing the Coast of Childe. They first attempted to steer for Cape Tres Montes, which headland they had seen, in one of the intervals of fair weather, from the summit of Mount Misery, and which appeared to be twenty or thirty leagues distant. The wind, * The Marine Islands were so called, in remembrance of the four marines who were put on shore from the Wager’s boats, and left behind. See Byron’s Nar., p. 85. 1741. CHANNEL'S MOUTH—BYRON.. 325 however, freshened to a gale, and they were obliged to run before it, and throw all their provisions overboard to lighten the boat. At night they took refuge in a small opening, which led to a secure harbour, and next day advanced a little farther, till they reached some small islands, where they were detained three or four days by bad weather. After leaving that place, they found an opening, into which they rowed, flattering themselves it would prove to be a pas- sage; but, being disappointed, they were obliged to return. This was probably the inlet, called ‘ Channel’s Mouth.’ Xavier Island was the next place they went to, named by them Montrose Island. Byron describes this island so ex- actly, that there cannot be the least doubt of its identity. “ The next morning,” he says, “ being calm, we rowed out; but as soon as clear of the island, we found a great swell from the westward : we rowed to the bottom of a very large bay, which was to northward of us, the land very low, and we were in hopes of finding some inlet through, but did not ; so kept along shore to the westward. This part, which I take to be fifty leagues from Wager Island, is the very bottom of the large bay it lies in. Here was the only passage to be found, which (if we could by any means have got information of it) would have saved us much fruitless labour. Of this passage I shall have occasion to say more hereafter."-—-Byron’s Nar. p.74. This is evidently San Quintin Sound. 'They proceeded to the west- ward and northward, entered a larger bay (Holloway Sound), and discovered another headland at a great distance to the westward (Cape Tres Montes), which they reached with much difficulty ; but being unable to get round it, and losing the boat that accompanied them, besides being obliged to leave four of the marines behind, they became quite disheartened, and returned to Wager Island, to linger out their miserable lives, without the least prospect of again seeing home. ‘This expedition occupied two months, during which they lived principally upon sea-weed, called ‘ tangle ;’ but sometimes passed whole days without eating anything at all. While they 326 CAPTAIN CHEAP AND HIS PARTY. 17AL. were absent, some Indians had visited the wreck; and, about a fortnight after their return, they arrived a second time, in two canoes. Among them was an Indian Cacique of the Chonos tribe, who live in the neighbourhood of Childe. It was supposed that a report of the wreck had reached that place; and that this Cacique, and another Indian, had come to derive some advantage from it. As the Cacique spoke Spanish, the surgeon, Mr. Elliot, made himself so far understood, as to let him know that they wished to reach some of the Spanish settlements ; and eventually bargained to give him the barge, and every thing in it, if he would conduct them to Childe. The party consisted of Captain Cheap; Mr. Elliot, the surgeon; Mr. Campbell, Mr. Hamilton, and Mr. Byron, midshipmen ; and eight men, be- sides the two Indians; in all fifteen. The first night they slept on an island, and the next laid upon their oars, to the westward of Montrose Island, not being able to land. They then pulled, “to the bottom of a great bay, where the Indian guide had left his family, a wife and two children.” There they staid two or three days; after which, taking on board the family, they proceeded to a river, ‘ the stream of which,” Byron says, ‘* was so rapid, that after our utmost efforts, from morning to evening, we gained little upon the current ; and, at last, were obliged to desist from our attempts, and return.” . This was probably a river, or channel, to the westward of San Quintin Sound, which eluded our search; and, if so, it must communicate with channels north-eastward of the Peninsula of Tres Montes. The Indians, anxious to get the barge to the Chonos, had no other way to effect their purpose ; for the usual route was over the ‘ Desecho ;’ to pass which, it was necessary to take a boat or canoe to pieces, and carry her, piecemeal, over a high mountain. After losing the barge, they crossed the Peninsula of Fore- lius, by hauling canoes over a narrow neck of land, and reached the water of San Quintin Sound; where they met another native family, with whom they proceeded to the River San Tadeo, “up which they rowed four or five leagues ; and then. 1829. DESECHO—OSORIO—SAN TADEO. 327 took to a branch of it that ran first to the eastward, and then to the northward.” There they landed, took the canoes to pieces, and carried them over the isthmus; then putting them toge- ther again, re-embarked, and proceeded through the Chonos Archipelago to Chiloe. When at Childe, I saw an old man, Pedro Osorio, who had been in two of the last missionary voyages (in 1769 and 1778), to the Guaineco Islands ; where the Wager was wrecked. He related to me the particulars of these voyages, and gave me an account of the ‘ Desecho,’ over which the missionaries trans- ported their piraguas. He also remembered Byron and his companions; and described them by the following names :— Don David (Captain David Cheap); Den Juan (John Byron) ; Hamerton (Hamilton); and Plasta. The name Plasta is not once mentioned in Byron’s Narrative; but on referring to Bulkeley’s and Cumming’s account, one Plastow is described as the captain’s servant ; and perhaps he was one of the number who remained with Captain Cheap.(z) Pedro Osorio must have been upwards of ninety years of age, in 1829.(a) A detailed account of these voyages is given in A giieros’s Historical Descrip- tion of the province of Childe, p. 205. Captain Stokes’s ‘ Dead-tree Island,’ in the entrance of San Estevan Gulf, is near the ‘Cirujano Island’ (Surgeon Island) of those voyages. Pedro Osorio told me that it was so called, because the surgeon of the Wager died there. From Byron’s Narrative it would appear, that the surgeon died, and was buried, just before they embarked to cross the sound.—See Byron, p. 147. As the examination of the River San Tadeo, and the dis- covery of the ‘ Desecho,’ formed a part of Lieutenant Skyring’s instructions, he proceeded up it, in a whale-boat, accompanied by Mr. Kirke. The entrance of the river is blocked up by a bar of sand and stones, which, at low spring-tide, must be nearly dry ; and a heavy swell breaks upon its whole length, joining the surf of the beach, on each side; so that there is (z) Could ‘ Plasta’ refer to Alexander Campbell ?—R. F. (a) Pédro Osorio died at San Carlos in 1832.—R. F. 328 SAN TADEO—BLACK RIVER. Dec. 1829. no deep channel ; and, except in very fine weather, an attempt to cross is hazardous. At its mouth, the breadth is about a quarter of a mile, but within the entrance it increases for a short distance: at three miles up, it is three hundred yards, and thence gra- dually diminishes. The shores are a mixture of clay and sand; _ and the country, on both sides, is low and marshy, abound- ing with brant-geese, ducks, teal, and snipe. The land, near the mouth of the river, is studded with dead trees (a species of pine, about twenty feet high), which appear to have been killed by the sea overflowing the banks ;(b) as it does at high-water for several miles. Three miles from the entrance this river divides into two branches, one leading N.W., and the other eastward. Con- sidering the latter, from Byron’s description, to be the proper course, Lieutenant Skyring followed it. At nine miles from the mouth, a stream was found falling into the river from the north, in every respect differing from the principal stream; the water being fresh, dark, and clear, and the current constantly running down, uninfluenced by the tide; while the water of the river was brackish and turbid, and affected by the ebbing and flowing of the tide, although, at that distance, its effect was much diminished. The shores of the Black River, as this new stream was called, are thickly wooded, which is not the case with the principal stream. They had entered it about ahundred yards before they discovered that they had left the main river ; but being desirous of proceeding, they followed its windings, the next day, for three leagues; during the greater part of which distance, they found a strong current against them, and were also much im- peded by fallen trees lying in the bed of the river. In many parts they dragged their boat along by the help of overhanging branches, or projecting roots; and the width, generally, was not more than fifty yards. As no piragua could pass there, Lieutenant Skyring felt assured that he was not in the right stream ; therefore, returning to the main river, he proceeded (b) Or by an earthquake wave.—R. F Dec. 1829. XAVIER ISLAND—~JESUIT SOUND. 399 up it during the next two days. At two miles above the junc- tion, the tide ceased to be felt; and a rapid current met them, which increased in strength until they were unable to stem it ; and as they were prevented from tracking the boats, by trees growing on the banks, they could ascend no farther. This place was not more than eleven miles from the sea; although, from the tortuous course of the stream, they had gone double that distance, and were about two miles from the foot of a mountain, whence the river descends. ‘The mountain was very high, and the vallies, or ravines, were filled with glaciers. From Byron’s description, it seems probable that Lieutenant Skyring was near the carrying place; but as further delay could answer no good end, he very prudently returned, looking carefully about, as he proceeded, for some signs of a landing- place, but without success. He re-crossed the bar, reached the Adelaide without accident, and the next day went on in her to Xavier Island. On the way they passed Dead-tree Island ; where, observing seal on the rocks, a boat was sent ashore, and her crew succeeded in killing a few sea-elephants, twenty feet long. Favoured with fine weather, they were enabled to land on the north side of Xavier Island, to improve the former survey ; and in the evening anchored in Xavier Bay, where they remained four days; during which, Jesuit Sound was explored, and found to terminate in two narrow inlets. Being a leewardly opening, it is unfit for any vessel to enter. The name Jesuit Sound, and those of the two inlets at the bottom, Benito and Julian, are memorials of the missionaries, who, in the expedition of 1778, entered and explored it.* (Agiieros, p. 232.) 3 The Adelaide anchored the next night in Ygnacio Bay, at the south end of Xavier Island, which Lieutenant Skyring * Mr. Kirke, who examined them, says, ‘There are two openings opposite Xavier Island, on the main land: the northernmostruns through high land, and is terminated by a low sandy beach, with a river in the middle, running from a large glacier; the southern inlet is ended by high mountainous land.” 330 CHANNEL'S MOUTH—KIRKE’S REPORT. Jan. 1830. recommends for small vessels; the depth of water being six or eight fathoms, and the anchorage well sheltered from the wind. On the 31st they anchored under the Hazard Islands, in the Channel’s Mouth: “ preparatory,” writes Lieutenant Skyring, *¢ to commencing new work with the new year; for since enter- ing the gulf, except while examining the San Tadeo, we had followed the Beagle’s track, and only completed what she left unfinished ; but from this place all would be new. This was the last wild anchorage she had taken; and although now fixed in the best situation, and in the height of summer, we found our position almost as dangerous as hers. “¢ Early on the Ist of. January 1830, Mr. Kirke went in a whale-boat to examine the openings, at the mouth of which we had anchored: he returned on the 9th, having traced to the end, all which had the least appearance of being channels. The two largest, the south and the east, penetrated into the Cor- dillera for thirty miles. All these inlets are narrow but deep arms of the sea, running between ranges of very steep hills ; their sides affording not the least shelter, even for a boat, and apparently deserted; for neither seal, nor birds of any kind were seen, nor were there even muscles on the rocks.” Mr. Kirke, in his report, says: ‘“‘ The three northernmost of the inlets of the Channel’s Mouth end with high land on each side, and low sandy beaches at the head, beyond which there rises a ridge of high mountains, about two miles from the beach. The S.E. inlets end in rivers rushing down from the mountains, and a rocky shore: not the smallest shelter could I find, even for the boat. ‘Two days and nights I was forced to keep her hauled up on a rock, just above high-water mark, in a strong gale, while the williwaws were so violent, that we were all obliged to add our weight to that of the boat, to pre- vent her from being blown off: and twice we were washed out of our resting-places, on the beach, by the night tide rising about fifteen or sixteen inches above that of the day.” This opening in the coast is noticed by the pilot Machado (Agiieros, p. 210); but by whom the name of Channel’s Mouth was given, does not appear. It is by no means descriptive of Jan. 1830. GUAIANECO ISLANDS—MESIER CHANNEL. 331 what it has been proved to be; but as Lieutenant Skyring thought that a change in the name would not answer any good. purpose, he very properly left it unaltered. The day after Mr. Kirke returned, very bad weather set in, and detained the Adelaide nine days, during which nothing could be done, out of the vessel. ‘¢ January 19th,” Lieutenant Skyring writes, ‘ with mode- rate weather, and an easterly wind, we left the Channel’s Mouth, and, standing for the Guaianeco Islands, passed those of Ayau- tau (between which and the mainland are several rocky reefs, though the passage seems to be sufficiently clear for any vessel) ; and skirting Tarn Bay, we distinguished the Mesier Channel, and could see many leagues down it. The entrance of the Mesier Channel is very remarkable, from having two high and singular peaks on the islands at its mouth: the northernmost very much resembling (although higher than) Nelson’s mony- ment, near the Strait; and the other, more to the southward, and much higher, resembling a church with a cupola, instead of a spire. Both are easily made out from the westward, at a distance of twenty or thirty miles. “¢ We reached the Guaianeco Islands in the afternoon. The two largest are divided by a narrow passage, on the west side of which we anchored, in ten fathoms, in a spacious and secure haven, which proved to be Speedwell Bay of Bulkeley and Cummings; the boats were employed next day, and, while the examination of the coast was pursued, I sought to ascertain the exact spot of the wreck of the Wager, but never could discover it: not a fragment of that ill-fated vessel was seen in any of our excursions. A few pieces of the boat lost by the Beagle last year were picked up; but nothing more that could tend to denote the misfortunes which have occurred near these islands. ‘From the description of the Wager’s wreck, in Bulkeley and Cummings, there seems to be little doubt of the place being at the N.W. end of the eastern Guaianeco Island, near my Rundle’s Passage, which is the place so often mentioned in their account as the ‘ Lagoon.’ 332 WILD POTATO—SPEEDWELL BAY. Jan. 1830. ‘‘ Being well supplied with powder and small shot, the people provided themselves plentifully, during our stay at Speedwell Bay, with a variety of wild-fowl, namely, geese, ducks, red- beaks, shags, and the ibis; curlew, snipe, plover, and moorhens, were also met with, and fish were observed in shoals near the vessel, but, as we had no seine, they escaped. With hooks and lines our fishermen had no luck; the baits were no sooner at the bottom, than they were taken away, and for a day or two the cause of their loss was unknown; but being acci- dentally ascertained, small trap-nets were made, and great numbers of crabs were taken, about a pound each in weight. “< In almost every bay we noticed the potato, growing among wild celery, close above high-water mark: but in so unfavour- able a situation, choked by other vegetables, its produce was very small, 2 “¢ 'The trees are not of large growth in these islands, neither is the land thickly wooded ; but above the beach, and almost round the coast, there is a breast-work of jungle and under- wood, from fifty to one hundred yards broad, and nearly im- penetrable ; beyond which is a great extent of clear, but low and swampy ground. “On the 25th, we left this port, and ran to the S.E., through what I have named Rundle’s Passage. This small channel, where the islands approach each other, is about a quarter of a mile wide, perfectly clear in the whole extent, and also at its southern entrance ; but at the northern there are many detached rocks, which are obstacles to entering Speedwell Bay, except in daylight. Rounding the islets, at the S.E. extreme of Byron Islands, we anchored in Muscle Bay, which lies on the northern side: by no means a secure place,—but the only one that could be found, by the boats, after many hours’ search. I selected this situation in order that the entrance to the Fallos Channel, and the whole outline of these islands, might be laid down, and properly connected with the land of Port Barbara; which was thoroughly executed by Mr. Kirke and Mr. Millar, although delayed in the completion of their Feb. 1830. FATAL BAY—MR. MILLAR’S DEATH. 333 work until the Ist of February.(c) On that day we sailed, and entered the Mesier Channel, anchoring in a small open bay, the only stopping-place we could perceive; which, from the loss we sustained shortly after our arrival, was called Fatal Bay. It is insecure, and the anchorage ground confined : ‘the only convenience was, that wood and fresh-water were near. During our stay we had much rain, which retarded us. Mr. Kirke went away in a boat, whenever the weather per- mitted, and, on the 8th, we sailed for an anchorage, about ten miles to the southward, where he had previously been ; but a sad event happened before our departure. “ On the afternoon of the 3d, we had the misfortune to lose Mr. Alexander Millar, who died in consequence of a severe attack of inflammation of the bowels, which carried him off, after an illness of only three days. ‘On Thursday afternoon he was buried, close to the shore, near the anchorage, and just within the edge of the wood. ‘“< That our progress had been so slow during the last month, was a great disappointment ; but we had had many causes of detention. All the early part of January the weather was stormy: eighteen days we were anchored within the Channel’s Mouth; yet during two only could our boats leave the vessel. “© Among the Guaianeco islands we had moderate weather, but also much wet : still the chief cause of our delay, I fear, was my own illness. From the beginning of January, I had been confined to my bed, with a tedious and obstinate disease ; and from that time most of the angles were taken, and all the observations were made, by Mr. Kirke, who was ever exceedingly willing and indefatigable. After the loss of Mr. Millar, not only almost the whole duty of surveying fell upon him, but much of the duty of the vessel. *¢ At noon this day (8th), we moored in Island Harbour, a small but excellent landlocked anchorage, with good holding (c) During much of this cruise, Lieutenant Skyring was so ill that he was unable to leave the Adelaide; and for a month he was confined to bed. His illness was caused by fatigue, and by sitting too long while con- structing charts.—R. F. 334 MESIER AND FALLOS CHANNELS. Feb. 1830. ground, and abundance of wood and water. The two following days, Mr. Kirke was away examining the coast; the third we were confined by bad weather ; and, indeed, during our whole continuance at this place, we had very much rain. ** We sailed early on the 12th from Island Harbour, and by night reached Waterfall Bay, an anchorage about fifteen miles to the southward : the wind all day was light, and the tide, the greater part of the time, against us; so that, with every exertion, we scarcely gained anchoring ground before it was quite dark : the strength of the tide was upwards of a mile an hour, at neap-tides: the ebb and flood were of equal duration, the former running to the 8S. b. E., the latter N.b.W. Thirty miles within the Mesier Channel it is as wide as at the entrance, and for several miles to the southward appears clear: so that no one is liable thus far to mistake its course. “<'The land on the west side appears to be a number of large islands, with here and there wide passages leading to the S.W., rendering it probable that there are many (although not direct) communications between the Mesier and the Fallos Channels. Our anchorages were chiefly on the eastern shore, that the openings on that side might be more readily examined ; but all which appeared to run far inland were found to be merely narrow inlets, or sounds ending abruptly. On each side the land is hilly, but not high; and this distinguishes the Mesier Channel from many others, whose shores for miles are formed by ranges of steep-sided mountains. Here, in many- places, there is much low land, which is generally thickly wooded, yet with no greater variety of trees than is to met with in the Strait of Magalhaens. The beech, birch, pine, or cypress, Winter’s- bark, and a kind of red-wood, form the forests; but none were observed that could be at all serviceable for the larger spars of a vessel. ‘¢ (16th). Left Waterfall Bay, and with a N.W. breeze passed Middle Island, entered Lion Bay, and moored in White Kelp Cove. The coast survey was soon finished, but we were con- fined at our anchors here four days; not by bad, but by ex- traordinarily fine weather. During such intervals, so very rare Feb, 1830. HALT BAY—ENGLISH NARROW. 335 in these regions, the wind, if there is any, is almost always southerly, and light. ‘* At every anchorage we had found Indian wigwams, but as yet had not met with any natives. Here we took a great number of fish; and, among them, one like the ling, found on the east coast of Patagonia, off Cape Fairweather, but of smaller size, for the largest did not weigh more than two pounds. Very few water-fowl were seen; steamers and shags were the only ones shot; but in the woods we noticed king-fishers, wood- peckers, barking-birds, parroquets, and humming-birds. ‘6 (2ist.) With a light northerly wind we left this cove, and about ten miles to the southward the appearance of the channel changed greatly. Instead of sailing through uncon- nected land, of moderate height, we were confined between two mountainous ridges.* At noon we were obliged to anchor in Halt Bay, no opening appearing to the right or left, and being apparently embayed. On the west side, the high land was skirted by several low islands, among which our only way of proceeding seemed to lie. This day and the next Mr. Kirke was away, seeking a passage; and having found one, and noticed the tides, we sailed through on the 23d, and gave it the name of the English Narrow. It is long and intri- cate, chiefly formed by islands; and in three places, where the shores approach each other, the distance across is less than four hundred yards, yet with a fair wind and slack tide, there is no hazard in passing. In the afternoon, we moored in ten or twelve fathoms in Level Bay, a spacious anchorage near the southern entrance of the Narrow; the bottom mud and sand, and the depth of water equal throughout. Mr. Kirke, who was among the islands opposite this bay, saw numerous shoals * On the west shore Mr. Kirke noticed what appeared to be a channel, about twelve miles N.W. of Halt Bay, in the mouth of which was a con- siderable tide-ripple ; an almost certain indication of such an opening. “T thought the inlet about twelve miles north-west of Halt Bay much like a channel. I also noticed a distinct tide ripple, which I did not remark near any other opening. To me this appeared the southernmost inlet, of any depth; or at all likely to be a channel.”—Kirke MS. 336 LEVEL BAY—INDIANS—BRAZO ANCHO. Feb. 1830. of fish in many of the bights; with a seine, therefore, an abundant supply might be obtained. ‘‘ The woodland eastward of our anchorage had very recently been on fire, and the conflagration must have been extensive, and very destructive; for throughout a space of ten or twelve miles along shore, all the trees had been consumed, the dead trunks of the larger ones alone remaining. We left Level Bay on the morning of the 25th, and passed a canoe full of In- dians; but they pulled to the shore, and ran into the woods; therefore, since they avoided us, and we had a fair wind, I did not seek their acquaintance. We had noticed traces of them in the neighbourhood of the Narrow, on each side of which many wigwams, that had been recently occupied, were seen. ‘* For the next ten or twelve miles we went through a fine reach, whose shores were low, and whose channel was interspersed with several islands, affording probably excellent anchorages ; but to the southward the hills became more steep, and, except in the ravines, were destitute of vegetation. At four or five leagues to the E.S.E., beyond the English Narrow, an opening, apparently a channel, presented itself, and the reach in which we were sailing seemed to end. Doubtful which course to fol- low, we anchored the vessel in Rocky Bight, and despatched the boats to examine both passages. That to the E.S.E. was found to run direct nearly ten miles, and to communicate with a fine clear channel, trending to the 8.S.W., which proved afterwardstobe the Wide Channel (Brazo Ancho) of Sarmiento. At the junction, a considerable arm extended to the N.N.E., apparently a continuation of the Wide Channel. ‘On Mr. Kirke’s return from examining the passage in which we were sailing, I learnt that the same width continued about five miles southward of our present anchorage, and that there the shores approached closely, forming the intricate passage called Rowlett Narrow ; which, after a S.E. course of many miles, also joins Wide Channel. The island formed by the two channels was named Saumarez Island, in honour of the gallant admiral. ‘‘It rained hard and blew strongly the whole day, which Feb. 1830. EYRE souND—SEAL—ICE-BERGS. 337 prevented our moving; but on the 27th we shifted our ancho- rage to Fury Cove, in Wide Channel. ‘¢ Mr. Kirke, on the 28th, examined an opening to the north- ward, called Sir George Eyre Sound, which terminates in a wide fresh-water river, running through low land from a large glacier. The low grounds extend two or three miles from it, and then the land becomes high. Behind the glacier there is a ridge of high mountains, covered with snow, which we had seen twice before ; first, from near White Kelp Cove, and again from Halt Bay. In the sound, we saw three whales, and being the first we had observed, since leaving the Gulf of Penas, they inclined us to think we were near the Gulf of Trinidad. A great number of fur seal, besides two of their rookeries, or breeding-places, were also seen. Several icebergs were floating out of the sound, some of which were dark- coloured ; and upon one I found a quantity of rock that had come down with it from the mountains. 'There was serpentine and granite, specimens of which were collected, and given to Captain King. One of the bergs, which was large, was aground. It was nearly seven fathoms above the water, and bottom could not be found by sounding round it with twenty-one fathoms of line. «¢ Fury Cove is diminutive ; there is not more than sufficient space for two small vessels; but the ground is good, and in every other respect it is a secure haven. We sailed on the 3d of March with the expectation of soon recognizing some known points in the Gulf of Trinidad; but as the wind failed, we were obliged to anchor for the night in Sandy Bay, in eight fathoms. ‘* As we proceeded to the southward, the appearance of the country gradually changed: the mountains seemed more bar- ren, the trees and shrubs more stunted, the land rose more suddenly, and the shores of the channel became bolder, and presented an uniform rocky line of coast. “© (4th.) We again steered southward, and at noon an opening appearing on the east side, which ran several miles inland, I sought an adjacent anchorage, in order that it might be explored. Our boats were examining the shore all day, and VOU, I: Z 338 OPEN BAY—CONCEPCION STRAIT. March 1830. sounding in the coves, but no fit spot was found ; therefore we were forced to stop in an ill-sheltered nook, termed Small Craft Bight, which just served us (having fair weather) as a resting-place until morning (5th), when we set out again to find a better anchorage ; for I still desired to ascertain whether the opening to the eastward was a sound or a channel. In our course to the southward we traced both shores in search of a stopping-place ; but there was neither bight nor cove where it was possible to anchor, until we arrived at Open Bay, which lies near the entrance of Wide Channel. Even this was sucha very insecure place, that although I remained the next day, to examine the neighbouring coast, it was far too exposed an anchorage for the vessel to continue in while the boats were away at a distance. ‘* Disappointed by not finding a place for the schooner near the opening I wished to explore, I was yet averse to leaving it unexamined, having traced every inlet to its extremity for upwards of two hundred miles along the continent. I wished to continue so sure a mode of proceeding ; and although I felt certain that this opening terminated like the rest, and Mr. Kirke held the same opinion, I would gladly have prevented any doubt by following its course in the boats, could we have gained a safe anchorage for the vessel. The nearest harbour that could be found was thirty miles from the opening, and it would have detained us too long to send the boats such a distance ; so considering that we had yet a great extent of coast to examine; that my state of health did not permit me to undertake any very exposed or arduous service; and_ that Mr. Kirke was the only person to whom such duty could be entrusted, I was induced to relinquish our former practice of exploring every opening to its end. “¢ We left Open Bay on the 7th, and soon entered Concep- cion Strait, keeping along the east shore, and sending a boat, at every opening, to seek a situation for the vessel. In the afternoon, a tolerably sheltered bay was found, at the south end of the North Canning Island, open only from 8.E. to S.W.; but those winds being frequent and violent, and the March 1830. SAN ANDRES OF SARMIENTO. 339 bay exposed to a long reach of sea from that quarter, it cannot be accounted a safe harbour; yet it was very far preferable to many places in which we had been obliged to anchor. “This bay (Portland Bay) is on the north side of an open- ing called by Sarmiento ‘ Canal de Tres Cerros,’ and from the broken state of the interior high land, one is led to imagine a channel might be found there. His conclusion, I have no doubt, was drawn from this appearance, since the view down the open- Ing is very limited, and, at the distance of three or four miles within the entrance, is interrupted by several small islands. Mr. Kirke passed between those islets, and followed an opening to the S.E., for upwards of eight leagues. On his return, he reported that he had found a fine channel, of which the principal entrance was the opening of Sarmiento’s ‘ Canal San Andres.’ “On the 12th, in full anticipation of making some inte- resting discovery, we sailed into the ‘Canal San Andres,’ anchoring in the afternoon in Expectation Bay, where we remained until the 15th. During that time, Mr. Kirke was employed examining the different openings, and tracing this supposed channel farther. At his return, he said that he had found a termination to every opening, even to that in which we then were, which he had previously thought to be a channel. Like the rest, it extended only to the base of the snowy Cor- dillera, and then was suddenly closed by immense glaciers. “‘ This information caused great disappointment, as all hope of passing through the Cordillera, thus far northward, was now given up; and I was fearful we should be delayed many more days before we could extricate ourselves from this (as we then supposed) false channel. We were many miles within the entrance; in that distance there were no anchorages, and the wind being generally from the westward, I anticipated much labour before we could effect our return; but the very next day we were so fortunate as to have a slant of fair wind, by which we cleared this opening, and a second time entered Con- cepcion Strait. Knowing, by our former survey, that there was no anchorage along the coast to the southward of Cape San Andres before reaching Guard Bay, I ran over to Madre zz 340 WALKER BAY—GUIA NARROW. March 1830. de Dios, and brought up in Walker Bay. Fortunate we were, too; for before midnight the weather became so stormy as to oblige us to strike the topmasts and yard, let goa second anchor, and veer a long scope of cable. At few places in these chan- nels where we had anchored, could we have veered even half a cable. We remained the following day, and on the 21st, the weather being moderate, ran for the Guia Narrow, and having a favourable tide, passed through easily. “It was my wish to have anchored among the islands to the southward of Cape Charles, since that would have been the most convenient place for the Adelaide, while examinmg the opening beyond Cape San Antonio; but hauling round the headland into a bay formed by those islands, no soundings could be gained ; and not perceiving any bight at all likely to afford shelter, I continued my course for Puerto Bueno, where Sarmiento thought there was good anchorage. In the evening, with the assistance of the boats, we moored in Schooner Cove, Puerto Bueno, and the next day, Mr. Kirke went to examine the opening north of San Antonio. “¢ While we remained, a plan was made of this port, which lies five miles S$... from Cape Charles and three and a-half from Bonduca Island. The shore is steep, and without any inden- ture. ‘lo the southward is Lear Bay, a mile im extent, affording anchorage, but not to be chosen when such an excellent haven as Puerto Bueno is near. The south extreme of this bay forms the north point of Puerto Bueno, and a few hundred yards south of that point is Rosamond Island, which is low and pointed ; four hundred yards S.S.E. of this, is a small round islet, bold to on every side; and between this islet and a low point, a quarter of a mile to the S.E., is the widest channel to the ancho- rage. Sarmiento, indeed, most appropriately named it Puerto Bueno. It has both an inner and an outer port, the depth of water throughout is from nine to six fathoms, and any position in either I consider safe; but excepting that it affords better shelter, it differs in no respect from other anchorages in these regions. Wood and water are generally found in abundance near them all: fish may be caught; geese, ducks, shags, and March 1830. NATURE OF THE COUNTRY-—SAN LUCAS. 341 steamers may be shot ; and shell-fish gathered. ‘The country, also, has the same appearance, and is of a similar nature; for if you force a passage through the woods, it is over fallen trees and moss; if you walk over clear flat ground, the place is found to be a swamp; and if you ascend the hills, it is by climbing over rocks, partially covered with spongy moss. “¢ Mr. Kirke returned on the 24th, having found that the opening beyond San Antonio led to the N.E., and at ten miles from the cape communicated with that called the Canal San Andres. *“¢ At daylight we left Schooner Cove, and in passing down Sarmiento Channel I tried, though unsuccessfully, to reconcile some of his remarks with our own observations. South of San Marco and San Lucas there are two extensive bays, which we afterwards found communicated with an opening between San Mateo and San Vicente, separating the greater part of the eastern shore of this channel from the main land. *¢ T wished to anchor near Cape San Lucas, but around that opening no place could be distinguished likely to afford shelter, the shore in every part being bold, steep, and rocky. A like uniformity of coast presented itself as far as Cape San Mateo; but on the west side, along both Esperanza and Van- couver Island, lie many bays that are well adapted for vessels. Sailing, however, under Cape San Lucas, we stood for San Mateo, and succeeded in anchoring in a small port, formed by Weasel Island, scarcely large enough, but perfectly safe, when once we were secured. From this place the boats were despatched. An opening east of our present station was to be traced, and this part of Sarmiento Channel, ‘with the entrance between San Mateo and San Vicente, was to be laid down. These operations, which in moderately fair weather would not have occupied three days, were not completed before the 31st, from our being delayed by violent winds, and almost continual rain. We had also had exceedingly bad weather during our stay in Puerto Bueno, and those employed in the boats had undergone very severe fatigue, and had suffered much from wet and cold. A short distance within the entrance of the 842 CURIOUS NOTICES OF THE NATIVES. March 1830. opening, between Cape San Mateo and San Vincent, it turns suddenly to the south and S.b.E., continues in that direction for nearly thirty miles, washing the base of the Cordillera which rises from it precipitously, and is closed by a low isthmus, two miles across, dividing this inlet from Stewart Bay, and over which Mr. Kirke passed to take the bearings of several points that he recognised in Collingwood Strait. ‘¢ In the prosecution of the survey northward of our anchor- age, those passages were discovered which separate so much of the east coast of Sarmiento Channel from the main land ; and the islands thus made known I named after Commodore Sir Edward Owen,* the channel of separation being called Blanche Passage. | “‘One of the boats met with a canoe containing eight Indians; this was only the second that had yet been seen during our cruise. ‘¢ An interview, which two of the schooner’s men had with these people, is so characteristic of the habits of the natives who wander in canoes, that I add the account, as given by one of those men: ‘ When we arrived at the wigwam, there were two women and five children inside, and a dozen dogs near it. At our entrance, the children crept close to one side of the wig- wam, behind their mothers, who made signs for us to sit down on the opposite side, which we did. The women, seeing that we were wet, and meant to do them no harm, sent the two eldest children out to gather sticks, and made up a large fire ; so we cut some pieces of bread from a loaf which we had, and distributed them. They all appeared to like the bread, particularly the youngest, which was sucking at the breast ; for it eat its own slice, besides one we gave its mother. After we had been there about half an hour, and had given them some beads and buttons, a man came in from behind the wig- wam, where he had concealed himself when we entered, and sat down beside us. By signs, he asked where our boat was, and how many men there were with us. We told him the men and boat were a little way off, and made signs that we wanted to * At the request of Lieutenant Mitchell, of the Adventure. March 1830. HABITS OF THE NATIVES. 343 stay all night with him. We then gave him some bread, which he smelt, and afterwards eat. He offered us some sea-elephant blubber, about two inches and a-half thick ; we took it, and making signs it was not good, flung it on the fire. As soon as it began to melt, he took it from the fire, put one part in his mouth, and holding the other drew it back again, squeezing out the oil with his teeth, which were nearly shut. He put the same piece on the fire again, and, after an addition to it, too offensive to mention, again sucked it. Several more pieces were served the same way, and the women and children partook of them. ‘They drank large draughts of water as soon as they had done eating. As it grew dark at about eight o’clock, the man began to talk to the women about our ‘ sherroo’ or boat, and our men, who he thought were near. They seemed to be alarmed, for the women shortly after left the wigwam, and did not return. They were quite naked. The man took the youngest child in his arms, squatted down with the rest, and making signs that he was going to sleep, stretched himself by the fire, the children lying between him and the side of the wigwam. Soon afterwards another man came in, who seemed to be about twenty-two years of age, younger by ten years than the first we saw. He had a piece of platted grass round his head, in the form of a band. After talking some time with his companion, he talked and laughed with us, ate some bread, and would have eaten all we had, if we had not kept it from him. He ate about two pounds of blubber, broiling and squeezing it, as the other had done, and drank three or four pints of water. We had only one case knife, which he was very fond of borrowing now and then, to cut the blubber, pretending that the muscle shells, which he broke for the purpose, were not sharp enough. He examined all our clothes, felt our limbs and breasts, and would have taken our clothes off, if we had let him. He wanted a knife, and was continually feeling about us for one, as we did not let him know that we had only one. He opened a rush basket, and took out several trifles, such as fire-stone,* feathers, spear-heads, a sailor’s old mitten, part of * Tron pyrites. 344 NOTICES OF THE NATIVES. March 1830. a Guernsey-frock, and other things, some of which he offered for the knife. «¢ ¢ About midnight it rained very hard, and the inside of the wigwam became soaked with wet; so they all roused up, and made a large fire; then ate some blubber, and drank some more water. They always carried a firebrand with them when they went out in the dark to get water, or for any thing else they might want. When they had well warmed themselves they lay down again. The young man lay close to us, and, when he supposed we were asleep, began to search the man who had the knife, but we kept watch and he could not get it. About two hours afterwards he made up the fire, and went out, as we thought, for firewood: but for no other purpose than to take away bushes from the side of the wigwam, that he might have a clear passage for what he intended to do. Returning, he took up a piece of blubber, and asked for the knife to cut it. As soon as he had cut a slice, and put it on the fire, he darted through the part of the wigwam, which he had weakened, like an arrow. The other man seemed to be very much vexed, and thinking, perhaps, that we should do some mischief in consequence of the loss of the knife, watched an opportunity, when he thought we were asleep, to take out all the children, and leave us quite by ourselves. About two hours after, he returned, and pulling down dry branches, from the inside of the wigwam, made up a large fire. We had no doubt that the younger man was at hand watching us, and just at daybreak, as we were preparing to start, he jumped into the wigwam with his face streaked almost all over with black, and pretended to be quite a stranger. When we asked for the knife, he would not know what we meant, but took up one of our shoes that lay on the ground, and gave it to us. The band of grass was taken off his head, and his hair was quite loose. There were neither skins, spears, nor arrows in the wigwam, but no doubt they were in the bushes; for when we threatened to take the canoe he jumped into the wood, resting on one knee, with his right hand on the ground, and eyed us sharply till we were out of sight,’ March 1830. SCARCITY OF INHABITANTS. 345 “©The other family seen in the Mesier Channel we did not communicate with, and it may be remarked that in this passage, although between four and five hundred miles in extent, we did not meet twenty human beings; a strong evidence that these regions are very thinly inhabited, particularly when it is considered that we made no rapid progress, and that our boats traversed, through different channels, at least twice the distance run by the vessel.” CHAPTER XIX. Sarmiento Channel—Ancon sin Salida—Cape Earnest—Canal of the Mountains—Termination of the Andes—Kirke Narrow—Easter Bay —Disappointment Bay — Obstruction Sound — Last Hope Inlet — Swans—Coots—Deer—River—Lagoon—Singular eddies—Passage of the Narrow—Arrival at Port Famine—Zoological remarks. ‘¢(April Ist). Tis morning the weather was very unset- tled, squally, and thick: but as no delay could be admitted, when there was a possibility of moving, we left at eight o’clock, and followed the course of Sarmiento Channel. I have no doubt that a passage exists eastward of Point San Gaspar, leading to Collingwood Strait, and forming an island between that point and Cape San Bartolomé: but with the N.W. wind and bad weather we then had, that bight was too leewardly for us to venture into. ‘The knowledge of an opening there could be of no great importance, yet had I been able to find an anchorage near Cape San Bartolomé I would gladly have profited by it, in order to assure myself of the existence of a passage. In hauling round, the appearance of the land favoured my impression ; but our chief object being to seek a channel through the high mountains, I stood toward Stewart Bay, the most southern part examined by the boats. Finding I could not anchor there with- out entering the bight and risking delay, which I was unwilling to do, as I wished to reach Whale-boat Bay as soon as pos- sible, we proceeded and anchored in the evening in Shingle Roads, ready for moving the next morning. Having, last year, passed along the whole line of coast, from Cape Earnest to this place, there seemed to me no necessity for a closer examination, for I knew there was no opening within that distance, and I could very little improve what was then laid down on the April 1830. ANcOoN sIN sALIDA—KIRKE NARROW. 547 chart. The weather was very unpromising, and at daylight the next morning it blew hard from the N.W., but we weighed and ran to the southward. When in the ¢ Ancon sin Salida’ of Sarmiento the wind suddenly shifted to the S.E., and was so strong that we were quite unable to beat between Cape Earnest and the northern island of the ‘ Ancon,’ but passing round, found anchorage near the east end in a small bay : however, as the wind had moderated, and the Canal of the Moun- tains was open to us, on the east side of which there appeared to be several secure bays, we kept under sail, and in the evening anchored in Leeward Bay, which we at first thought would afford excellent shelter, but on reaching it found we had erred exceedingly. ‘There was no time to look for another, so we moored, and prepared for bad weather, which, as usual, was soon experienced ; and we were kept two days without a possibility of moving, or doing any thing to make our situation more secure. We had heavy squalls during the whole time ; the wind being generally west or W.N.W., but at times nearly S.W., when more swell was thrown into the bay. “On the 5th we got clear of this bad and leewardly anchorage, the wind being more to the N.W.; but we had still such very squally weather, with rain, that it was a work of several hours to beat to Whale-boat Bay, where we moored in the evening, and prepared for examining the coast with our boats, both to the east and west. Before leaving Leeward Bay, around of angles was taken from high ground north of the anchorage, and it was satisfactory to reflect that the ‘ Ancon sin Salida’ was traced far more correctly than could be done in our former visit. ‘There was constant rain and squally wea- ther all the morning, and only in the latter part of the day could any work be performed in the boats. On the following morning Mr. Kirke went to trace the Canal of the Mountains, and I rejoice to say that I was again able to assist in the boat service, and went to examine some openings. After leaving Kirke Narrow on the right hand a wide sound appeared, about nine miles in length; and having traversed it, we turned to the east, through a narrow intricate channel (White Narrow), 348 TERMINATION OF THE ANDES. April 1830. obstructed by several small islets, and passed suddenly out ito a clear, open bay. Our prospect here became wholly differ- ent to that which for months before we had daily witnessed. North and south of us were deep bays, while to the east, between two points seven or eight miles apart, our view was unob- structed by land, and we were sanguine in hoping that we had discovered an extensive body of water. There was also a con- siderable change in the appearance of the country, which no less delighted than astonished us; for so gratifying a prospect had not been seen since leaving Childe. Eastward, as I said before, we could perceive no land; to the north-east and south-eastward lay a low flat country, and the hills in the interior were long, level ranges, similar to that near Cape Gregory, while behind us, in every direction westward, rose high rugged mountains. I fully believed that our course here- after would be in open water, along the shores of.a low coun- try, and that we had taken leave of narrow straits, enclosed by snow-capped mountains: the only difficulty to be now over- come was, I imagined, that of getting the vessel safely through the Kirke Narrow; which, hazardous as I thought the pass, was preferable to the intricate White Narrow, through which we had just passed. Such were my expectations; and with so noble a prospect in view, I hastened to look for anchor- age for the schooner, which I succeeded in finding at a place named by me Easter Bay, and returned on board the next day through Kirke Narrow. Mr. Kirke employed three days about his work, having traced the inlet, which trended northward from Cape Grey for nearly eleven leagues. He found that it was bordered on each side by a steep range of mountains, broken here and there by deep ravines, which were filled with frozen snow, and surmounted by extensive glaciers, whence huge avalanches were continually falling. The western side of this canal is formed by the southern termination of the Andes. At the northern end -are two bays, with sandy beaches, backed. by low land, which, however, rises gradually to high peaked mountains, distant about two miles. ** Karly on Easter Tuesday we left Whale-boat Bay, and April 1830. KIRKE NARROW-——-EASTER BAY. 349 proceeded towards the Kirke Narrow. We had been unvary- ing in watching and trying the strength of the tides during our stay ; but the observations never accorded with those in the narrow, and our calculations this morning, after all the trouble we had taken, were found to be erroneous. On approaching the place we met a stream of tide setting to the 8.W. between two and three knots; the wind was light; we sometimes gained ground—at others were forced back by the strength of the tide—and thus kept hovering near the entrance until eleven o'clock ; when the tide slackened, and we neared the eastern end, which is by far the narrowest part, and where, I appre- hended, every exertion would be required to clear the rocks ; but fortunately it was at the moment of slack water—we passed through easily, and our anticipated difficulty vanished. This eastern entrance is narrowed by two islands, which contract the width, at one part, to a hundred and fifty yards. When clear of this passage, Point Return, Point Desire, and Easter Bay were in sight, and we found ourselves in a channel much wider than those to which we had been lately accustomed. To the south was a deep sound, apparently branching in different directions between high land, but our principal object was the low country to the N.E., and through this we were so sanguine as to make sure of finding a passage. In the evening we anchored in Easter Bay, and a a the schooner in fe and six fathoms, over a muddy bottom. “¢ Next morning (12th) the boats were prepared for going away to gain a better knowledge of the country around, to find out the best anchorage, and to become acquainted with some of the many advantages that, from the prospect before us, we considered ourselves sure of experiencing. Mr. Kirke went to examine Worsley Sound, and he was desired to examine every opening as he proceeded eastward. As soon as he was gone, I set about measuring a base between Kaster Bay and Focus Island ; which, being of moderate. height, appeared to be a favourable position for extending the triangulation. This work was soon finished; but I was greatly disappointed, when on the summit of the island, with the view that presented itself 350 DISAPPOINTMENT BAY. April 1830. to the eastward. The low pomts, before mentioned, beyond which, from Easter Bay, we could distinguish no land, and between which we expected to make good our course to the S.E., appeared to be connected by a low flat country. An ex- tensive sheet of water was indeed observed to the eastward, yet I could only, from its appearance, conclude that it was a spa- cious bay. ‘¢ My attention was next drawn to the southward, if which direction, to the east of Woolley Peninsula, appeared a wide and deep opening, and this I determined to explore on the morrow ; for it was now the only course likely to lead us to Fitz Roy Passage, where it became every day more indispen- sable that we should arrive, since our provisions were getting short. At my return on board, I learnt from Mr. Kirke that he had examined the greater part of Worsley Sound, whose eastern shore formed a line of coast almost connected with that of the bight before us, to which the name of Disappointment Bay was given. “It was arranged that he should proceed from his last point, and carefully trace the shore of Disappointment Bay to the eastern headland of the southern opening, down which it was my intention to proceed. With these objects in view, we left the schooner next morning. A fair wind soon brought me to the entrance, where I landed to take bearings on the west side, and arrived at the promontory of ‘Hope’ by noon. There I ascended to the summit of the hills, but found them so thickly wooded, that my anticipated view of the land was almost inter- cepted, and the angles taken were in consequence very limited. “ At this promontory the course of the channel trends slightly to the eastward ; and its direction is afterwards to the S.S.E., being open and clear for eight or ten miles, when low land stretching across from the west side intercepts the view. In passing to the southward, I landed frequently to continue the angles, and hauled up, at the close of day, in Rara Avis Bay, still doubtful of the nature of the opening. “‘ Next morning, passing Point Intervene, we pulled into an extensive reach; and having landed, to take bearings, on the April 1830. OBSTRUCTION SOUND. 351 east side, near Cape Thomas, I proceeded, in hopes that beyond the next point some better prospect would be gained: on arriving there, however, my expectations were instantly checked by a bold rising shore, continuing uninterruptedly as far as the Oliver Islands, which we passed soon afterwards. «“ The width of the channel between the Oliver Islands and the northern shore is not more than a mile, but it afterwards increases, and turns sharply first to the west, and then 8.8.W. In the west reach there are many small islands, and the high ranges on both sides being detached from each other, gave me yet some hopes of finding a passage between them. Proceeding in the afternoon, a bight appeared to the 8.S.E., about two miles to the westward of Cape Up-an’down, which was exa- mined, although there was no prospect of meeting with success by tracing it, and in it were found two small passages leading to the S.I., suitable only for boats. We ran down the largest, and a mile within the entrance were embayed. At the bottom of this bight the land was low, and I tried to get on some eminence, that I might command a view to the $.E., but was always im- peded by an impervious wood. I observed, however, distant high land in that direction, and could see a sheet of water, about six miles from me: but whether it was a lagoon, or a part of the Skyring Water, was doubtful. I could not, at this prospect, rejoice as Magalhaens did, when he first saw the Pacific, for my situation, I began to think, resembled that of Sterne’s starling. “‘ Keeping along the south shore, until late in the evening, we gained the west end of this reach, and finding no shelter for the boat, crossed to the broken land on the west side, and passed that night in Hewitt Harbour. “On the following morning, we pursued our course to the S.S.W., and at eleven o’clock reached the extremity of this extensive sound. All our suspense was then removed, and all our hopes destroyed ; for the closing shores formed but a small bay in the S.W., and high land encircled every part without leaving an opening. ‘‘ Throughout the examination of this sound, we did not 352 OBSTRUCTION SOUND. April 1830. distinguish any decided stream of tide, and the rise and fall did not appear to have ever exceeded a foot: that there was a slight tidal movement of the water seemed evident, from the streams of foam coming from the cascades; and also from the fallen leaves which were borne on the water, from the shores of the bays, in long lines; but signs like these are indicative of there being no strength of tide: I have frequently noticed such appearances in large sounds, or inlets, but never in any channel where there was a current. . ‘The bays between Hope Promontory and Point Intervene are frequented by immense numbers of black-necked swans — (Anser nigricollis) : hundreds were seen together; they ap- peared not at all wild when we first passed; but, on our return, there was no approaching them within musket shot. Many ducks and coots were also observed. On a rock, near the Oliver Islands, was a small ‘ rookery’ of hair-seal ; and, in our progress down the sound, we passed some few shags and divers. This is the enumeration of all we saw, and these few species seem to possess, undisturbed, this Obstruction Sound; for we neither observed any wigwams, nor saw any traces of inhabitants. ‘¢ Having no interest in remaining, after some necessary angles were taken on Meta Islet, we commenced our return; and, with a fair wind, made good progress, landing only where it was necessary for angles, and reached the vessel on the evening of the next day (16th). I have fully stated the examination of this sound, and have been, perhaps, unnecessarily particular _and diffuse; but I think that when its near approach to the Skyring Water is known by others, it will be considered very singular that no communication exists between them. To every one on board the Adelaide it was a great disappointment. The only inlet now remaining to be explored was through the 8.S.E. opening, east of Point Return; which, on the 18th, I went to examine. Mr. Kirke returned on the same day as myself, having traced the coast as far as he had been directed, and found the large expanse of Disappointment Bay nearly bounded by a flat stony beach; and the water so shallow, that even his whale- boat could seldom approach the shore within a quarter of a April 1830. | OBSTRUCTION SOUND. B5e mile ; but he had left a small opening in the N.E. unexplored, which, as our last hope, I thought it necessary to examine ; and he went for that purpose the next morning. Situated as we were, we had great reason to be very earnest in the search for a passage; and, I think, that no channel into the Skyring Water, however small and intricate, would have been left un- attempted at this crisis. During the vessel’s continuance in Easter Bay, the men, who remained on board, were employed in clearing the hold, and completing wood and water to the utmost, in order that we might not be delayed at any anchorage after our departure thence. “ On the 18th, I went, in a boat, down the opening east of Point Return; and by noon reached Virginia Island. wo miles to the southward the channel branches to the S.E., and to the _$.W..; I followed the latter branch, landing where necessary to continue the angles, and arrived in the evening at the extremity, which was closed by low land; in the middle was a wide and rapid stream. The slot of a deer was seen along the margin of the shore. Next day we proceeded down the S.E. branch to the Centre Island, thence steered towards an opening that appeared in the S.W., and passing through a narrow winding passage, entered a large bay, which was closed at the bottom by low land, similarly to the branch examined yesterday. Only an opening to the N.E. now remained to be explored ; but night coming on, we hauled up in Tranquil Bay, near the northern extremity. The N.E. opening was found to trend eastward for three miles, and then turn to the S.E., forming an extensive bay, whose shores were encircled by low land, and only separated from Obstruction Sound, by an isthmus two miles broad. Our search being concluded, I has- tened back, and arrived on board the schooner late in the even- ing. Finding Mr. Kirke had not returned, I still entertained some little hope, and the vessel was prepared to move either one way or the other as soon as he came back. ** Late on the 21st, Mr. Kirke arrived. The opening in the N.E. had been traced for nearly thirty miles from the entrance, first to the N.E., and then to the W.N.W., till it was closed VOLT. 2A 354 LAST HOPE INLET—swaNns—coorts. April 1830. by high land far to the northward of Worsley Bay. Many deer were seen on the plains eastward of the inlet, and some were shot at, but escaped. Swans, ducks, and coots had been killed in such numbers, that on their return all the schooner’s crew were plentifully supplied. Of this place Mr. Kirke says: ‘ At the commencement of the N.E. sound there is low land, which extends about thirteen miles up its shores. The entrance is three or four miles wide; but five miles up, the inlet is con- tracted to about half a mile in width, by a shoal connecting three islets with the western shore. These islets were literally surrounded by black-necked swans, mixed with a few which had black-tipped wings: the male of the latter has a peculiar note, which sounds like ¢ ken kank,’ but the female only sounds © kank.’ ‘“¢¢ A few coots were shot in this neighbourhood, out of an immense quantity seen. In each of two flocks, I think, there must have been upwards of a thousand. ‘¢ ¢ From these islets the sound trends nearly north for seven or eight miles, when it is again narrowed by an island, on each side of which there is a narrow passage for a vessel; but the eastern one is the best. The few bays near here are fit for small vessels only. ‘¢ ¢ Beyond this island the face of the country begins to alter from low to mountainous land, with long flats in the valleys, and the sound also changes its course more to the N.W. Near a high bluff on the eastern shore, eight miles further up the sound, the land becomes higher and covered with snow; yet there are still a few level patches between the mountains. From this bluff the sound trends about a point more westerly for five or six miles, to a place where there is a small inlet, on the left, between two snow-covered, mountainous ridges. The water there was changed to a clayey-colour, and had a brackish taste. Continuing our course for two miles, I found a large expanse of water, the north end. of which was limited by low land, backed by high snowy mountains in the distance ; its southern extreme terminated at the foot of high mountains, also covered with snow; and had a large run of water from a April 1830. DEER—RIVER-—LAGOON. 355 glacier on the western side. ‘In returning we saw some deer on the eastern shore of the low land, between the islands of the second reach, but could not get within gun-shot : they appeared to be of a dark colour, and fully as large as a guanaco. Some of our men thought they could distinguish small straight horns, but I could not myself see them.(d) I endeavoured to cross the isthmus, where Lieutenant Skyring had seen water from Focus Island, near Easter Bay, and first attempted it by the course of a fresh water river, at the head of the bay; but I found the country so thickly covered with stunted wood, about eight feet high, and exceedingly prickly, that I lost my way twice, and returned to the shore ; I tried again however, about half a mile more to the eastward, and at last got to a high part of the ~ land. When there, and mounted on another man’s shoulders, I could scarcely see above the trees (which, at the roots, were not thicker than a man’s wrist): there was evidently a large expanse of water, but I could not distinguish much of it. I think it probable that it is fresh, as the river, fifty yards wide, is rapid, and appears to run out of it. There is not any high land in the neighbourhood, whence such a run of fresh water could be supplied. **¢T saw numbers of deer tracks about this place, and the boat’s crew observed three deer similar to those above-men- tioned.’ —(Kirke MS.) “© We weighed on the 22d, and towed out of Easter Bay, with the hope of repassing Kirke Narrow ; but shortly after- wards so dense a fog arose, that we could distinguish no land, and were unable to profit by the advantage of a light fair wind, with otherwise favourable weather. In the afternoon, when it cleared up a little, we anchored in Fog Bay, on the west side of the channel, about three miles from Kirke Narrow. (d) Mr. Kirke was rather short-sighted, and therefore unable to dis- cern distant objects clearly. From the natives of Ponsonby land, be- tween the Otway and Skyring Waters, I procured, and gave to Captain King, some short straight horns, and parts of the skins of animals, which were probably deer of the kind seen by Mr. Kirke, and, Since that time, by Mr. Low, when he followed my track into the Skyring Water with his sealing vessel, the Unicorn schooner.—R. F. DirAve 356 KIRKE NARROW—SINGULAR EDDIES. April 1830. “¢ (23d.) A thick fog confined us at our anchorage till eight, when, having some hopes of the weather clearing, we weighed, and stood for the Narrow, but a continued haze prevented us from entering until after noon. As we approached, no tide could be perceived, and again we were doubtful of our calcu- lations, having expected to find it favourable, however, we steered for the islands. To give a better idea how we were driven about as we tried to approach this Narrow, I have attempted, in the subjoined plan, to show the direction of the currents, and the courses we were carried by the eddies. My, { i Why wd Y Uh}, MI) a 7 = <= SS SS => FFs, \\ CW 1p an y ae ey) MN \\ V7 GRE E Ae AI ee >’ i. ; SU ® i : | «) WW) % = G “‘ The wind was light from the north-eastward. Upon our reaching the station marked 1, without having previously April 1830. PASSAGE OF THE NARROW. 357 noticed any current, we observed a strong rippling in the Narrow, and immediately sent the boats a-head to tow us towards mid-channel. We proceeded rather quickly until we arrived at 2, when our progress was checked, and we were carried rapidly back, as far as 3. In the Narrow the tide was evidently against us; but in crossing to the N.W. at 4, we were forced by the counter-current against all the efforts of the boats—were carried close to the large island—and for the space of thirty yards, were brushing the overhanging trees with our main-boom. ‘This part was, most fortunately, quite steep ; for had the vessel touched in her swift course, she must have been swung with violence against the rocks, and much damaged, per- haps irreparably. “* No sooner had we passed the end of this island, than we were shot into mid-channel to 5, and then as suddenly and swiftly carried back by the stream of the tide. The boats could never keep hold of the vessel while in these whirlpools ; and it was several times fortunate that they had cast off the tow-rope in time, for thrice we were twisted round, as if on a pivot, by those violent eddies. “A favourable moment was seized, the boats were again sent a-head ; and, by great exertions, we were towed out of the influence of the tide, and then waited for the time of slack water. « At three o'clock Mr. Kirke was sent to Guard Point, to ascertain the time of high water ; and at half-past four, in con- sequence of his signal, we towed in with both boats, and passed the islands with a favouring tide; but one quarter of a mile farther, we met ripplings, which we had no sooner entered than a reverse of tide was found, as if the waters from the sounds were gradually forcing back the tide of the channel. We still, however, made progress to the S.W.; but it was not before eight o’clock that we anchored in the west entrance of this Narrow, pleased, indeed, to be again secure, and to have escaped unharmed. “© 24th. Thick, hazy weather in the morning ; but at eight o clock it cleared a little, so we weighed, and soon reached the 358 ARRIVE AT PORT FAMINE. April, May1830. Ancon of Sarmiento. A strong S.E. wind, during the fore- noon, carried us past Cape Ano Nuevo, and at noon we were near the opening into Smyth Channel, which I have called Victory Passage. We moored in Sandy Bay, in eight fathoms, purposing to remain during the next day (Sunday); and on the 26th, with a moderate wind from the northward, we left Sandy Bay, and stood to the south, passed the Elson Islands by noon, and at three moored in Hose Harbour. Next day we cleared Smyth Channel, and anchored in Deep Harbour. “ (28th.) Wind light and northerly. We towed out of Deep Harbour at daylight, stood across Beaufort Bay, and. anchored in ‘Tamar Bay; where, the weather being unfavour- able, we remained during all the next day, filling water and cutting wood,—preparatory to our run to Monte Video,—in case of not finding the Adventure at the appointed rendez- vous, Port Famine. ** On the 30th, with a moderate breeze from the N.W., we left Tamar Bay; but the wind soon after becoming contrary, we made but little progress, and anchored that evening in a small cove, near the east point of Upright Bay, where we passed the following day, in consequence of the wind continu- ing easterly, and causing much sea in the Strait. 2d. Weighed, stood out, and made all sail, steering through the Strait. We passed Playa Parda early that afteraneee and Cape Quod soon afterwards, and as there was every appear- ance of a moderately fine night, continued our course. We hauled in near Port Gallant, when it grew dark, and burned a blue light, to call the attention of any vessel lying there; but no return was made, so we passed on. At midnight we were between Cape Holland and Cape Froward, the wind being light and the weather moderate. “3d. On rounding Cape Froward, we beat up in-shore against a N.N.E. breeze, and in the evening were three or four miles to the northward of Point St. Isidro. After a tempes- tuous night, we reached Port Famine, where, to our great joy, we found the Adventure.” With the exception of such fish and birds as had been pre- May 1830. ZOOLOGICAL REMARKS. 359 viously observed near the Strait, Lieutenant Skyring and his party saw few living creatures. One novelty which Mr. Bynoe gave me was a splendid corvorant, which, being quite new, and the most beautiful of the genus, I named Phalacrocorax Imperialis.* I also received a species of swan, quite distinct from the common one of the Strait, which has been long known as the black-necked swan (Anser nigricollis of Ind. Orn., u. 834; and Latham, x. 223). Considering it an undescribed species, it was named Cygnus anatodoides.+- Several deer were seen, but none obtained. There is reason, however, to suppose them to be of a novel species. The horns are short and straight. * Phal: capite cristato, collo posteriori, corporeque supra intensé pur- purets ; alts scapularibusque viridi-atris ; remigibus rectricibusque duodecim JSusco-atris ; corpore subtus, fascia alarum maculdque dorsi medit sericeo- albis ; rostro ngro; pedibus flavescentibus. Staluria Phal. Carbonis, It was found in the Inner Sounds, within the ‘Ancon sin Salida,’— Proceed. of the Zool. Society, vol.i.; also Phil. Magazine, for March 183], p. 227. + C. albus remigibus primarits ad apicem nigris, rostro pedibusque rubris, allo lato subdepresso. Molina describes a Chilian duck thus. Anas Cosco- roba—A. rostro extremo dilatato rotundato, corpore albo, but I do not think it is the same as my specimen; certainly it is not Anser Candidus of Veillos, the ganso blanco of D’Azara, which the author of the Dict. D’Hist. Nat. (xxiii. 331.) supposes to be the same as A. Coscoroba (id. p- 332). Molina’s description is very short, and does not mention the tips of the primary wing feathers being black. CHAPTER XX. Beagle sails from San Carlos—Enter Strait—Harbour of Mercy—Cape Pillar—A postles—Judges—Landfall Island—Cape Gloucester—Dis- location Harbour —Week Islands — Fuegians—Latitude Bay—Boat’s crew in distress—Petrel—Passages—Otway Bay—Cape Tate—Fin- cham Islands—Deepwater Sound—Breaker Bay—Grafton Islands— Geological remarks—Barbara Channel—Mount Skyring—Compasses affected— Drawings—Provisions—Opportunities lost. Captain Fitz Roy having received his orders on the 18th of November (see Appendix), sailed the following morning from San Carlos, and proceeding to the southward, approached the entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens on the night of the 24th. The following are extracts from his Journal :— ‘“¢ At daylight on the 25th, with the wind at S.W., we made Cape Pillar right a-head (E.N.E. by compass), distant seven or eight leagues. The wind became lighter, and we were set by a current to the S.W., which obliged us, in nearing the Cape, to alter our course from E.N.E. to N.N.E., to avoid being carried too near the Apostle Rocks. A dangerous rock, under water, on which the sea breaks, lies half a mile more towards the north than either of the Apostles. Cape Pillar is a detached headland, and so very remarkable that no person can fail to know it easily. « 6e-+ 59269 6% “2a asad WO G é ‘ if £3! 06 oo. 19‘EgS Go — e oc ces cee evecee GSo't LoL‘o g‘tor U°L39 ag FE 6‘1gS 1 cy 06 | 1Z+ | s6€9¢ | Sz ‘von OaplA aU0TT “A bo | o't+ | oF€09 | St — ‘ ‘ ¢ ‘Cop ‘ ‘ i ‘A SS | gft+ | s1S09 | Gt — sees. f PAOD UvTasepy 6rE‘t | 16.0 | gfogh | o°Sg Y08 8S. |F0' 609 | a &9 Aa gsibo = ‘spuy[s] purly[ey : Oo I- 3z'G0g | GI “IPI "SEQI ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ Je a 89 | of0 PS6G | 15 — Ro oe oer 1st O1g‘o F6Sr L'o1G FG iF 6°16¢ oa ag. | 0% ees6¢ | 12 deg Aeq oourlg glg‘o | gSo‘o | 6°L4Gr | 1°ELS gS Le Et €'1g¢ °S wg | Sb— | glisgG | ot Ae | oe romauer ap ory a atea eee e | 5 8 9— Tsog | I — PSI 6€3‘o o LSr 9°g6r BOB or 1£009 “A GL bo— 66°96¢ QG ae eeceseoceeccocaese vivid Wog HA | 94 | Ho | gst¥09 | ts — | ‘ad 8 9— | Lt‘oog | Za ‘uee ; *ZEGL CLS‘ 000‘ t b°oSr boSr g‘Lz 69 g‘oLl ob: § o¢ ok— 6LSoLL I ‘29 ecooeseccoceececee yynowdA, qd 5 “s = ‘s a "Ss "s “1SEI % sp fUmMowATE | ‘uones 1 yora iy ‘diq pearesqg, OUNL lygarasqo jue, | “PU | 94R . “AyisuaqUy ‘a[paaN-Sutddiq. v se Eaj2ean0;) s;uomyg | UAL aed uOHeIS UOTLIGIA JO OUILT, ! TE ee cS pS SS SiS SsSspssssetsnaeenagenerenseeerrwss-worcsasee “ALISNAINT JILANOV]A] MAGNETIC. INTENSITY. 512 Evan + GEL‘o 6g0't LLL‘o THEE g08‘0 ggt‘t | Eggo ofs'1 006‘o ogst | F96‘o bo$'1 gb6‘o o9S‘t cé is Coh't LEo‘t 6 "I *A}(susqUT “"ynours{g WwW ‘aTpoant-surddiq ve sz *UOTIEIS yore yy UONVIqrA JO aU, G‘S1 o§ P6gLG 9°8z 6 6°LzG oz +8 9‘Go9S bGt Eb 1°SgG S‘ob gh | L‘gg 1G L‘g9G 6°9G ab 0‘98S g‘eS 6 Q°Z19 L°Gt GG 1‘TOg “oul T, “did pearasqo) paqve1109 if a (eal oto ms | Sg o‘o+ I 6 o‘g+ \ “yf 16 | ofg++ fos Oo fom] Ls | 88 - | oe Sea 9 | 94+ lees v9 g‘L+ I v9 | o’et+ | ‘y v9 | ofgt+ “yy 301 | 0:0-- | “WT Co Gort fe & | 19 © |-0°g=F LS) | Yoo" fotgH. JM | 9% | 8’e+ Lom | 98 | e’e+ {°H | -29 | 6+ LM | 9 | 64 J ‘S | 04 | of9+ Ls o£ | of9+ { 3S | oF | ofg+ 99 | Seo. fo‘gu. Ley | es | og ‘ayeU "19 ATISAO | WUOULL | s uoayg “OUILL, | "paninquod ‘KLISNHINT OILANSV I 6s — gt ‘AON tr — tl — 6r — St udy 61 — 61 “qay cr — Gr ‘uve “CEor ol = OL ‘09q > b oune orl — or — or Avy "1€gt ‘ayeq eas Seo Qa enrn “Ses Sir Se eS sor Beds | ET 0 ‘aMIYLIO | Sees f puBIs] Sapreyo spurs] sosedeyeg | | teeeeeeeeees coors OGUIMbOD| Cee mee cree ee reeses uotodaaueg ee ee ie a BIAIP[V A | Co erccrserseresone MO'T WOg 010 0.0.6.0 0.04 00.0 00a eels es ehes aot) rgcenseeksieee = SUE, UOC | Ce ZnIQ eIUBs ‘Y *U0T}RIS 515 MAGNETIC INTENSITY. “panuruod 1480 €L9‘0 0f3‘o BBQ‘O Fr0‘1 cOL't 6Gol‘t Lig‘t Ggo‘t 16S‘ 1 LG1't o6E 1 Z'10 QI LO QI o'GE 3G g‘oo FY Sib ¥9 6°rE o£ b‘6r zg o's& 69 oan ee Se SN <2) e eo ° BARABBRARBRNHHUY of) hel bel be SMM wy MW e hd nd 68‘SgS €1°E 8G 92°&gG gL‘°EgG 60'18¢G 18°19¢ gS°1g8G b&°Z09 €3'GOg 69‘F0g ob ‘Gig o&‘Gig 06%s19 00°%69 c9° 169 ab‘ 169 E1°169 L&‘o0Sg 6L‘0S9 GO‘Lb9 1L°9&9 Li‘b&9 €1°369 &9'g69 1z‘619 br°gig 698‘619 €9°0z9 L&°Sog gL‘bFog vi cue "9> CG. = rr Te) @ § —_a ip ae DW I RI I er I RS SD" eeevecccoscesovvee ee © Bye CeLOeeoveOeVEOOEO UOISUIISY ec0eeeeoteesoroaese Buda H 43S eoeeeeecnecaeesene BudlaH IS revere ALOFT pooy jo adeg COOH CeeoCeceeseoeCS SNIFLING FAL ree" NUNOG V9109N) SUIS] teoties se nsee ss SUT NOT J1VQOFT sdcondecsvecorserniceress( Sup Kc eoccccncevvevce pue[voZ MON aa VOL. I. r 5 t oa + a es > a 7 cS bs " } Es j = \ } ae | \ : x ; 7 a et - ; 5 . i ‘ vi — ie } ¢ 7 4 ' \ y L Bi = s ie ’ bs —s = oe 2 2 ee a, nee) . A A i 2 . t ¢ . - Ny] F - * “o } i Maeneric Inrensity, continued. Time of Vibration | asa Dipping-Needle. Intensity. | Station. Date. Time. | Chton’s | Therm. | Observer, cores Observed Dip. | ; Ateach At 1 6 Station. | Plymouth. oD S 1831. Ss. Ss. © cee Ss Ss. if May 10 | 601,67 | +8,0} 53 K. a R. Santa Cruz .......... \| — .10| 601,72 | +8,0|) 54 St. 601,1 5 15,7 454,0 | 462,2 1,037 | 1,425 | l — 10] 601,03 nie e 50 st. | | See 613,25 6. . Port Famine «....seeeeeee 1 gane Grea ale eS a } 612,6 | 5952,6 | 4340 | 462.2 | 1,195 | 1,560 hay J) Dec. 10 | 586,31 | +9,2 | 62 KG, 9 (OMT) Pano reconeeanceecnoca U — 10 | 58714 +9,2 62 K. J 5 86,0 48 58,9 47457 462,2 0.948 1,304. 1835+ f| Jan. 15 | 587,14 | +8,8 6 K. 4 | |Port Low ener eel aaa Sal ae \ 5887 | 5120,1 | 465,39 | 462,2 | 0,964 | 1,260 anes Feb. 1 87,67 8,0 | Go K. | | VaIOIVia sseseesssovesesesneee { gees} (oarie alia Coa ES : 588,7 | 46 46,5 | 487,2 | 462,2 | 0,900 | 1,238 | { Apr. 13 584,03 1035 65 aS | = f —1 585,30 A 6: . jCoucepcion.. ; | a as RE t's Gr K. j 583,1 | 4315,4 | 497,7 | 462,2 | 0,863 | 1,186 — 14 | 581,03 | +8,6 64 K. 1 ae eS {| June 4 566,81 7,0) 6. K. 2 Pela vit ; 1 = . 596.37 af 04 K j 555,8 | 34 20 514,2 | 462,2 | 0,808 1,111 salapagos Islands, et. 1 529.66 | —0.4 St. Charles Island: _f**"*" | — 16] 329,21 | —o4| 98 | st. s| 5279 | 9286 | 524.2 | 462,2 | 0,777 | 1,069 } Noy- 16 | 580,33 | +6,0| g1 K, \ “ eS — 16 } 580,66 | +60] 93 K. = | Otaheite, or Tahiti || = 23 | 57844 | +60] 85 KY 578,4 | 30 13,5 537,56 | 462,2 0,739. 1,017 {| — 2g | 581,00 | 46,0] 85 kK. Sydney... 22 | Cape of Good Hope...... St. Helena . 604,76 | +7,8 | 80 K. ] { 605,37 | +758 | 80 | K. s| 9°36 | 59 33,0 Jan. 14 | 620,63 | —5,4 | 78 Ss. ] . — 14 | 619,83 | —5,4 | 82 Ss. ¢ — 22 | 61814 | —5.8 | 86 K 617,9 | 62 49,4 Hobart T Ip — 22 | 619,21 | —5,8 | 87 K. obart Town........s0e.2 | Feb. 6 | 698,6: 2, 6: Ss. TU feceaceta Reaatee) [Pete econ liao nea7+#) llnrolone King George Sound ....../ | Mar. 7 | 634,17 | —5,6 | 72 | S. 1 & fe L| — "10 | 636,71 | 42,4] 80] s, s| 9341 | 64 41,3 Mauritius ............-+000 J May 3 | 647,95 | —9,2] 87 K, | l — 3 | 650,79 | —9,2 | 94 K. f 647,7 | 54 00,8 = 8 | 650,37|—9,2] 94 | K. June 1 691513 —7,2| 68 Ss! | = 1 | 691,42 | 7,2) 69 | S. 691,62 | +04 | 61 Ef 690,6 | 52 35,0 692,00 | +0,4| 63 | F 612,90 | —8,0 | 78 | S. 615,30 | —8,0 | 79 St. 613,2 | 18 01,2 f papa —8,o0 | 78 Ss. St-Helena ssessscssssessseee 104,69 | —8,0 | 76 | S. Sete Us 605,23 | —8,0] 77 | Ss. \ Go2,9 | 18 01,2 — 13 | 602,34] 80] 72 | s. J Ascension PA aot Ml July 21 | 581,58 | —9,4 | 75 Ss. Wie 2 681,31] —9.4 | 75 | S. 580,2 1 39,2 — 21 | 581,09} —94] 75 | S. ' [| Avs-s 583,78 | —o4] 75 |S. BEEN goon cocoon) || oS PERE Stasi) ny | is | — 4 | 58313] —9.4| 79 | s. (| 5823 | 5 535 = 4 | 583,89 | —9.4 | 79 | S °,737 0,598 0,618 0,635 0,633, 1,685 1,817 1,709 1,192 1,014 0,822 0,850 0,873 0,871 continued, “ALISNOLNI OLLANOVIL *ALISNGLINI OILANOVIN 61g MAGNETIC INTENSITY. 514 ‘SUI OD ‘g ‘IN o000't 6S0‘1 1hg*%o G99‘o *T SEEnESEnrneteemeeeeeme ee “AVIsuaqUy &SOr B'SOr osOr o‘sQr ‘’s “"ynouIsTg W ‘surly ydeQ Sy Z‘sOr 6h 6°E0G 8°99 °s U0T}81g yore yV UOlVACI A JO OWL, ‘HWVMIIS ‘dT “d ‘II JS "soyoig "Tf AAT “SS G11 69 9° 89 *diq paarasqo p ‘panu1juod ‘ALISNALN] OILONDVIN GPL *OUILL, “UBATING "NIT *§ “AOY-Zq ureydeg *J—-: susAsesqo ° ° n ” AANWNNNHHWNHH 31992109 | *IOAIISAO) “Wey TL S, Gr — cr — St 4990 | i 1% “ydag of oad I wee ee t ‘ydag 4t — Lt — $i — St ‘ony *a}eq stecasserscocssees OMOMIAT Ceecosesegoeree sn eee PIIIIO T, eeceerocon: cevecce UH Oe f 10g e2ee een soreness oonquieulag | GX DIP AND INTENSITY. 51 3. Captain King’s Observations of Dip and Intensity. Captain King, having hitherto made known his observations with the same cylinder in the years 1826 to 1830 only by com- municating them to M. Hansteen, from whom he received the apparatus, has now given permission to Captain Fitz-Roy to publish them with his own. I have already noticed the great ‘loss of magnetism which took place in this cylinder during Cap- tain King’s voyage, and the care with which that officer availed himself of every opportunity of ascertaining, by direct obser- vation, the proportion of the loss sustained in separate portions of the voyage. There are twelve stations of observation on the east and west coasts of South America, besides three stations in ports of the Atlantic on the outward voyage. By the practice of repeat- ing observations at the same station at distant intervals, the South American stations are so linked together and connected, that by adopting a method similar to that used in determining longitudes by means of chronometers, we may compute the intensity at all the South American stations referred to and dependent on the force at Rio de Janeiro; regarding Rio in the same light as a first meridian is considered in determinations of longitude. We may then make Rio the means of connecting the whole series with Europe ; for which it is remarkably well suited, the intensity there having been determined, independently of Captain King, by four observers of different nations, whose results are extremely accordant. The dip observations of Captain King were communicated, in occasional correspondence during the voyage, to M. Hansteen, who computed them by Mayer’s formula, and arranged them in a table, of which a copy was given by Captain King to Captain Fitz-Roy, and is printed in the next page. At some of the sta- tions Captain Fitz-Roy also observed the dip in the subsequent voyage, and, as will be seen, the results of the two observers sometimes differ considerably. This may have been caused, either by instrumental or other error of observation, or by actual differ- ences of dip existing in different localities at the same station. dy a Ure DIP AND INTENSITY. 516 “Surjuem are UOIyeAIasqO | .-g OfOT Sb SI} JO Savpnoiyied oy, « *syIRUlay re Liby o‘to Gor L‘g9G PSS “‘poonpep diq bY Gr Vad or ov gs OF Ov 6r 6S 6S 6G 6G vé vé Cg 6G e@enveeoven L'Gz Let a‘S0 L‘ot L‘60 oS FG Z‘SO o; ‘6s ttt EC 9°8h g'&r b°EG ‘to L‘zo 9°aS GLE OCS o'tG ‘EI PILE 69% a‘ LS L‘oo ofor c: 5D ue ees eeeeae girs 9‘Sr 6°80 96h L°€G g°8S Cbs 68a o‘Ot bEP 6‘6r (egy Q‘bE 6‘90 Tht 9‘to GSE res o1G FSI Lt Hz BOG ‘be 9°GS ‘Or L‘Go / PV ev 1G ov 18 *e[0d 'S ® pus poyiey 6‘Lo “LS 091 bGr L‘6r 6°6S €‘eh 6st &°gE L‘ot £' gz gE 9G Sgr bgz 660G EP ance) Oar Sor gS 6‘6r cv 4 68 boG 661 L‘t@ 6b aor G‘to 6Er O'vG 6°Ss 6°gh 9'GS L'vG G‘9% 653 6°63 6‘60 6S obs 2 Lt. 1°96 oLt ber g°L1 9°BS 'bG 68 G‘9G or bY oG OV OV SP OF oG tG *a[0d *N ® pue payieyy HAHA MONA DMR AMHADHAAMHAMIA MAA CO *a[pIa NT | @ebes eerste eee ouenyeo[e 7, _9@eeseeece ZIPUCUII LT uene eGeeseete seegse osieredie A (@0ecea ee ree see cee dA FO) eeecve JACD UuiL.Ie FAL "IS eeeccceesoees OoplA dJUOTAL 2 eeeeersoven BvulleyjeEy eS PeCereoee OLLIUBL op Ony ee eee "u0e1S seensesonrs ABET IBOKT: UOC See eet INOS) (ee eeosecsces oULWe JLO GL H “1€91 03 gzgt ‘Bury ‘dq ‘dq “3deQ fg paasasgo ‘saicy OBSERVATIONS OF INTENSITY. OL7 The following TaBLE contains Captain Kine’s Observations of Intensity, with the times of vibration corrected for the arc and reduced to a standard temperature of 60°. Maenetic Intensiry, observed by Capt. P. P. King between 1826 and 1831. Station. Greenwich ..... 4 Madeira Teneritfe ...... de Port Praya ...... : Rio de Janeiro St? Catharina... GOLPIfls die sicesea es Monte Video ... Port St? Elena Sea Bear Bay... St. Martin Cove iG GUMS cee ededscess Juan Fernandez Talcahuano .....- J Valparaiso Port Famine ... @oeree Date. 1826 Mar.22 1831 Jan. 24 1826 May 31 Junel2 — 22 Aug.29 1827 Sept. 12 May 8 June 18 July 30 Apr. 30 Sept. 1 Dee. 15 Feb. 19 Dec. 18 Time, On a So?) (sy) (o>) Therm. Corrected Time. 73397 776,01 606,73 } 557,08 545,16 551,70 561,05 553,58 Particular place. } Observatory. 627,79 |Consul’sGarden. S 549,44 | 562,78 © 553,87 560,95 564,89 550,42 576,37 } stag J 585,08 589,36 eee i 595,81 ee ij \ 565,23 551,83 555.59 5575 1 Ow | 1 f SS Sr fi _ Landing-place. 548,59 | I 551,60 it ! Fort St. Pedro. Landing Place, Quail Island. Rat Island. Anhatomirim. The Well. South point near the Sea. Landing-place. Head of the Cove. Observatory. San Carlos. Landing-place. Fort Galvez. Almendral. 518 OBSERVATIONS OF INTENSITY. At Rio de Janeiro, which was the first station observed at in South America, the cylinder was vibrated in August 1826, Sep- tember 1827, and December 1828 ; in the intervals between these dates are comprised the greater part of the observations on the east side of South America. There is no direct observation at Rio subsequently to December 1828 ; but we are enabled to supply the time of vibration, which would have been observed had the cylin- der been employed at Rio on June 1, 1830, in the following man- ner. We have seen that on the 15th September 1827 the time of vibration was observed at Rio; on the 18th December following it was observed at Monte Video. These observations give the inten- sity at Monte Video relatively to that at Rio, subject to whatever change of magnetism the cylinder may have undergone in the interval of three months. This comparison was repeated in the following year, on Captain King’s return from Monte Video to Rio, the interval being nearly of the same duration, and the order of the experiment reversed, the passage being in this instance from Monte Video to Rio, it having been before from Rio to Monte Video. On the supposition of an uniform, or nearly uniform rate of change in the cylinder, the errors arising therefrom during the two passages would be of opposite kinds, and should compensate each other in a mean of the two comparisons. Calling the force at Rio unity, these comparisons give its value at Monte Video respec- tively as follows, namely, September and December 1827 ... 1:197 October and December 1828 ... 1:207 } Mean 1-202. On the Ist of June 1830, being then on his return from the west coast of South America, and on the eve of sailing for England, Captain King again observed the time of vibration of the cylinder at Monte Video; whence, through the preceding comparison, we obtain the time of vibration at Rio, which should belong to the same date. We have thus a fourth date at Rio, which, added to those enumerated above, will include the whole of the South Ame- rican stations; and we have only to distribute in each interval the loss of magnetism which the observations shew to have taken place from one date to the next, in the manner which may appear most suitable. There is no very obvious indication that the loss was other than gradual ; and by considering it uniform in each separate OBSERVATIONS OF INTENSITY. 519 interval, the results are found extremely accordant at several other stations at which observations were repeated at distant intervals. In the first of the subjoined tables are given the times of vibra- tion at Rio at the four periods referred to; and the corresponding times as a dipping needle. In its three last columns are shewn,— the number of days comprised in each interval,—the increase in the time of vibration owing to the loss of magnetism,—and the result- ing daily correction, on the supposition in each case of the loss having been uniform in the interval during which it occurred. The second table contains the corrected times of horizontal vibration at each of the South American stations, at the dates respectively inserted,—the corresponding times as a dipping needle,—the times of vibration as a dipping needle at Rio de Janeiro at the same dates, derived from the observations in the first table,—and the resulting intensity at each station relatively to unity at Rio. Thus far the results are derived from Captain King’s observations, unmixed with those of any other observer: but in order to bring Captain King’s series into connexion with the gene- ral body of results of other observers, the values of his intensities are expressed in the final column in terms of the scale in common use, in which the force at Paris = 1,248, and at Rio de Janeiro 0,884; the latter being the mean of four independent determi- nations by the following observers, namely, 1817 and 1820 Freycinet ........... Reel PS 27 c.coters sacs) LUtKOU.. fe.n00 secenet ULO50 0,884 PSS0 3s. Fo eee) SOLINAU ET ccee teieees OLOU9 1836.6 ..v:cce00 Fitz-Roy ......c0000 0,878 Port St. Elena is not included in this table, as no dip was observed there, and the total intensity consequently cannot be computed. The three stations, Madeira, Teneriffe, and Port Praya, at which the cylinder was vibrated in the outward voyage, are also without dips observed by Captain King. The deficiency at Port Praya has been supplied from Captain Fitz-Roy’s observations and my own, both having been made at the same place at which Captain King’s intensity was observed,—Captain Fitz-Roy’s at a later, and mine at an earlier date. At Madeira also the dip has been supplied from my observations, which were made in the British consul’s garden at Funchal, where Captain King’s cylinder was vibrated. I have 520 OBSERVATIONS OF INTENSITY. deducted, from my determination of the dip, 12’ for the probable change between 1822 and 1826. At Teneriffe the dip has been frequently observed ; but the values assigned by different observers vary so much as to indicate a more than usual frequency of local disturbance, which might also be expected from the geological character of that island. It would be unsafe therefore to employ any dip for that station but one which was certainly obtained at the same spot at which the horizontal intensity was observed. The dates of the observations at these three stations fall between the observations at Greenwich in March 1826, and those at Riode Janeiro in August of the same year. Having the intensity at Greenwich = 1,372 and at Rio = 0,884, and the dip at Greenwich 69° 52’, and at Rio 14° 00, we have the time of vibration of Cap- tain King’s cylinder as a dipping needle at Rio at the respective dates as follows, namely, March 1826.......... seoanecdntacstaes 536,2. PAU OUSC LOE O caneceassesicee aes soldeaclacs 537,0. It appears therefore that but a very slight change took place in the magnetism of the cylinder during the outward voyage, and we may take 536,6 as the time of vibration at Rio, corresponding to the dates of the intermediate observations; and this is done in the table for Madeira and Port Praya. OBSERVATIONS OF INTENSITY. TABLE I. Time of Vibration. Rio de Janeiro. Sma DROLAMGREET [7 eae Salt el beLvale . As a Dipping Horizontal. Needle: SS a | . s. S. Days August 29, 1826... 545,2 537,0 \ ‘ September 15, 1827] 551,7 543,5 oe December 21, 1828 501, 552,7 462 June 1,1890 .... 563,8 55554 527 Tasxe II. Time of Vibration. At the Station. | At Rio. Station. Date. As a Asa Horizon.|Dipping Dipping Needle. | Needle. s. s. s. Madeira......+..(1826 May 31 | 627,79] 430,1 | 536,6 1826 22 Port Praya...4 [1020 June 2" | 557,08] 465,4 | 536,6 St@ Catharina [1827 Nov. 3 |553,58/532,7 |544,5 ae 1826 Oct. 29 Gorriti ...+. ‘ and Nov. 6 § |249:44| 497.0 |538,1 rece 1829 Jan. 10 |562,'78/509,0 |552,8 1827 Dec. 18 | 553,87) 496,7 | 545,4 Monte Video Saat senisiscces 1828 Oct. 8 |560,95/ 503,0 | 551,3 cee neeten 1830 June 1 | 564,89/506,6 |555,4 sa Sea Bear Bay {1829 Mar. 20 | 576,37) 446,0 | 5531 t. Martin 1827 Jan. 1 ; Give eee { f and 43 584,29] 41459 |539,4 an cg secives — Mar. 27 | 585,08) 415,4 |540,6 ;Port Famine {1828 Jan. 28 | 589,36) 417,5 | 546,2 —— seceneeee —_ aa ‘3 596,54] 422,6 |548,2 — June 1 me cccscceos { and July 30 595,81) 422,1 |549,3 —— sees oe ae hada 26 | 598,97] 424,3 |555,1 a7 1629 Sept. 1 Chil6e_ ...... 4 a ale et 565,23] 45357 155452 Juan Fernandez)1830 Feb. 19 | 551,83] 464,7 |554,8 Talcahuano 1829 Dec. 18 |555,59! 466,5 |554,6 — eeteeees 1830 May 12 | 557,18] 467,4 |555,3 Valparaiso... |1829 Aug. 4 |548,59/479,5 |553,9 8 ; == Eee ean rg 551,60] 482,1 |554,6 521 Loss. Per Diem. Intensity. 1,172 } 1,175 1,206 1,201 7 1,203 1,202 1,538 1,691 1,694 1,712 1,683 1,694 > 1,700 1,712 1,692 3,402 1,425 1,413 1,412 1,334 1,324 1,412 1,329 922 MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS. 4,.—The following Table exhibits the Magnetic OBsERVATIONS of Captains King and Fitz-Roy collected in one view. Stations. Latitude. COV) i2 Madeira ......0s00. ote 132 38 N, Terceira -...0. saetanece 38 39 N. Port Praya...secceees 1454 N. ASCENSION »..0++ecee0s 756 S. St. Helena.........00. 15 55 S. Falkland Islands ... |51 32 S. Pernambuco ........- 8 04 S. Bahia .....ccccsecesoses 12 59 S. Rio de Janeiro ...... 22 55 S. St@ Catharina......... 2726 S. GOrlitl \ posateenerscsns 3457 S. Monte Video....cccce 34 53 S. Blanco Bay ...c.cece 3857 S. Port. Desire ......0¢s 4745'S. Sea Bear Bay ...... 4751 S. R. Santa Cruz oo... 5007 S. St. Martin Cove ... |55 51 S. Port Famine ........- 53 38 S. Port San Andres ... |46 35 S. Port Wow \s.5..teserss 43 48 S. Childe ...... ausep vei 4151 S. Valdivia .....cccceveee 39 53 S. Concepcion ......00- 36 42 S. Valparaiso .....sseceee 33 02 S. Coquimbo .......000. 29 59 S. AMAR ton sleg wes cb Spree 1204 S. Galapagos Islands... | 0 50 S. DIGG! occ sotpeeets.| 0 D5: Juan Fernandez...... 33 38 S. Otaheite...... Sebsesace 17 20.9: Cape of Good Hope |34 11 S. Mauritius .....scceoe 2009 S. Keeling Islands ... |1205 S. New Zealand........- 3516 S. King George Sound [35 02 S. Hobart Town ..... 42 53 S. Sydney -ccceseare eves (33 51,09: Longitude. Seo eae ease Ss = A 4S 2 SSASe 3 Se Variation. Dip. rece (oly) Owe og sleipeisiany i) walslsaaienebctesenee Ae ey yi) 2418 W.} F. 6806 N.! F. 1,457 iB Weatee sasiane’e K...2,177 16 30 W.! Je 4620,2N.| F. 1,154 | F. 45 46,5 N F, 1,157 13 30 kis F. 1939,2N.} F. 0,873 F. 0,822 18 00 va F. 18 01,2 8, ; Fr. aB6 SF. 5330,45.| F. 1,349 goo E 4 F. 5319,68.| F. 1,385 554 W | F. 1312,9N.| F. 0,914 F. 455,8N. \ 418 W te 5 53.5 N. F. 0,871 K. 1400,1 S. } 200 E F. 1337,48. F. 0,878 saaestcants | K. 22 12,48.] K. 0,920 Be Shc | K. 35 05:9 : "4 oe K. 36 28,4 8. » 1,065 Bey Ee iF 9451,25.| F. 1,055 1500 B.| F. 4154,08.| Be xis 2012 E.| F. 5243,58.| F. 1,359 anenadee K.5313,5 8.| K. 1,36) 2054 E.| F. 5515,75.| F. 1,425 eespapas K. 59 43:8 S. “i 1,498 - 1,50 2300 E.| K.59 52,6 8. ee Hie 20 48 E F, 54 13,68. 19 48 E F. 51 20,18.) F. 1,926 K. 49 52,68.| K. 1,321 re Gat F. 4858,9S.| F. 1,304 17 30 E F. 46 46,5 8 F, 1,238 K.45 10,0 8.| K, 1,250 16 48 E F. 43:15:48.) F. 1,186 K. 40 10,7 S. } 1518 E F. 38 03,1 S. Kis's,1'76 PA Sa ee | uuie ss S daaten FE. 4,111 10 00 E F. 702,88 9 30 E F. 8 41,2 N 9 30 E F. 928,6N.| F. 1,069 K.4449,88.| K. 1,262 754E.| F.3013,58.| F. 1,017 28 30 W.| F. 5235,0 8 FP. 4,014 1118 W.| F.5400,8 S F. 1,192 112 W.| F.3833,1 § 1400 E F. 59 32,0 F. 1,591 536 W.| F.6441,3 5 F. 1,709 1106 E F. 7034,9 S.{ F. 1,817 1024 E F. 62 49,48: | F. 1,685 Or rhs) Cs GENERAL REMARKS. 1. Variation. Captain Fitz-Roy’s observations are so well distributed over the southern hemisphere, that a good view of the changes which the variation is undergoing throughout its meridians may be obtained by comparing his determinations with those of earlier observers at the same stations. The following table has been formed for the purpose of exhibiting such a comparison at all those stations where materials for it exist; and I may here remark how much such comparisons are facilitated by the valuable collection of early observations contained in the Appendix to the Magnetismus der Erde. Carr oF Goop Hope. FALKLAND IsLANDs. Observer. Date. Variation, Observer. Date. Variation. ie) / 1?) Mavis), (.7.0..2 5.4605: | 0,, 90:E: Freycinet ee LO2LOM 1 TO, 26 E. Meee! <2 43. 1609 0, 12 W. Duperrey «s 61828 40. O7\/E. Leydecker .. 1675 8, 28 W. Fitz-Roy.. ..« 1833 »19., 00 E. Mathews Oe el 724. 416. '39)"Wi, La Caille’ .. 1752 19. oW. Port Famine. Wales .. .. 1772 20. 26 W. Wallis)... +.) 2766 |.22,,30.F, Wales .. «. 1775 21. 14 W. Canterets.cs trac) (2 700M a2 220. Bligh .. -. 1788 23. 16 W. Fitz-Roy +2! .. 1881923) oo B. Dentrecasteaux 1792 24. 30 W. Freycinet .. 1818 26, 31 W. CoNcEPCION. Fitz-Roy .. 1836 28. 30 W. La Perouse .. 1786 15. 15 E By Halle ous aber hans 30 E. St. HELENA. Duperrey nj) LOLA. | LOOM. Wavas, |. ss iGLo) 6-Y. .13. Fitz-Roy..°'.. 1835 16.48 E: Haley 2. S%0 (1077) 0. 40 E, Halley VAN AD BGO 10 an1:0, We VALPARAISO. Mathews SEMA G24 Gy 7s 530 WY, Don G. Juan .. 1744 12. 30E. Wales. ie Sn ed 75. 19.118: W. Vancouver .. 1793 14. 49 E. Hunter ..° .. 1789 15. 30 W. Lititke. { 6)) «,\ 1827, 166,00E. Macdonald .. 1796 15. 48 W. Fitz-Roy..... 18395 15. 18 E. Krusenstern .. 1806 17. 18 W. Fitz-Roy .. 1836 18. oo W. CaLLao. Ulloa smh, ste ht AO) Os O20 Rio DE JANEIRO. Duperrey Se) LO2BA) 1. 9g0 E. Cook Bee aes PE OOMeae. 34 Ls Fitz-Roy.. .. 1835 10. 36E Humter }.. :.° 1787 .6. 12 E. G Freycinet os, HIZO) DU eda B, ALAPAGOS ISLANDS. Rumkerees .o6 , 1821 ° 9,94 Bh. Vancouver .. 1794 «8. oO E, Birman, 2. 9 186390: 9; 10 B. Be Halls.) ge 182E Ba) ous, Fitz- Roy sai LOS iw) e oo EB. Fitz-Roy.. -.. 1835 9. 30E. 5Q4 GENERAL REMARKS. OTAHEITE. Observer. Date. Variation. Observer. Date. Variation. 4 Ora ee Flinders: .°'\0.? 48039.%6. 51 °Re Cook + ROT BG) iiumetene cine Freycinet s..) 0; D8IQ, iO. dees Males) (ies... 1979) 5, 40) K. Duperrey.. .. 1824 8. 56E. Bayley fete ee isi: 5. 49 E. Fitz- Roy os oa) SPOS miter 24 E. Vancouver .. 1794 «6. 12 E. f Duperrey We 1823 6. 40 E. Van DIEMEN Ss) LAND. Fitz-Roy.. .. 1835 7. 34E. Tasman .. .. 1642 93, 00 FE. Bayley: (i.)) 6205 A777 pao Bay oF Isuanps, N. ZEALAND. Bligh: 22 .. 9 1998), WB. age Tasman: 2!) .2:) 1049", - 8s. 40h, Fitz-Roy.. .. 1836 11. o6 E. Cook LEON. SUZ OOH Shoes Duperrey Se LO 4 let ge 2 why. Mauritius. Fitz-Roy.. .. 1835 14. 00 E. Keeling .. |... ,/ 1609) 31.” OW. Mathews.. .. 1722 19. 4W. SYDNEY. Freycinet -- 1818 12, 46W. Cook Sai iate tht 77 Ol, woeOO) Es. Duperrey oo 2824 Ns AONE Hunter 9.0.0 178758) 50 EY Fitz-Roy.. .. 1836 11. 18W. We may derive from the facts in the above table the following general and easily remembered conclusion in regard to the changes of the variation in the southern hemisphere ; namely, that taking for our point of departure the meridian of 65° west in South America, we find that at all the stations east of that meridian to the Cape of Good Hope inclusive, the north pole of the needle has moved towards the west ; and that ali the stations west of the same meri- dian to Mauritius inclusive, the north pole of the needie has moved towards the east. An almost equally simple generalization may be drawn in respect to the changes of situation of the lines of equal variation in the southern hemisphere: but here it must be supposed either that the reader is thoroughly familiar with the general arrangement of these lines, or that he has a map of them before him. He will find such a map of the variation lines in 1787 in the Fifth Report of the British Association ; but any other map, corresponding to any epoch within the last hundred years, will equally serve the purpose. Referring to such a map, it will be seen that the lines of variation in the South Pacific, form a system of nearly concentric curves, of an oval, or pear-shaped form, the outside curves having a higher variation, which progressively diminishes to the centre. We may regard this system as comprehending the whole of the geographical space between the coast of South America and the meridian of New Zealand. Throughout this space the variation is easterly, and increases: we may consequently characterize the change in the situation of the lines of equal variation as a progressive closing -in GENERAL REMARKS. 525 of the curves from all sides towards the centre, by which the areas severally comprehended by them become less ; and the lower varia- tions, as they successively reach the centre, disappear, and are replaced by the closing-in of those of next higher amount. The changes which have taken place at all Captain Fitz-Roy’s stations comprised within the space referred to, are accordant with the systematic alteration thus described. In all other parts of the hemisphere the lines of variation have a progressive westerly movement, and to this also Captain Fitz- Roy’s observations correspond. It follows, from what has been stated, that the lines on the western side of the concentric system in the South Pacific have an eastward movement, which presents an apparent anomaly to the general progress of the lines of variation in the southern hemis- phere, which is from east to west. Otaheite, and the Bay of Islands in New Zealand, present exam- ples of changes in the variation corresponding to this apparent anomaly. The consistency, however, both of the movement and of the configuration of the lines of variation in this quarter, with those in other parts of the southern hemisphere, and with the general system of the magnetic phenomena, has been shewn by Mr. Hansteen in the Magnetismus der Erde, and in the Annalen der Physik, vol. xxi. The annual amount of the change of the variation appears con- siderably greater at the Cape of Good Hope and Mauritius than at any other of Captain Fitz-Roy’s stations, amounting to about eight minutes ; shewing that the variation lines in that quarter are changing their position more rapidly than elsewhere. The north pole of the needle is moving to the west at the Cape, and to the east at Mauritius ; but it will be seen, by areference to the map, that these opposite movements are in perfect correspondence with the uniform westerly progression of the variation lines, and result from their configuration. At the stations in the vicinity of the meridian of 65° west, the change appears to be very small. [ The variation at Ascension (13° 30’ W.) is correctly inserted in the tables: it is the only one of Captain Fitz-Roy’s stations at which his observations are not accordant with those of other observers: the dis- cordance may be occasioned by the great prevalence of local disturbances at Ascension. | 526 GENERAL REMARKS. Il. Dip. The following table exhibits the comparison of Captain Fitz- Roy’s observations of the dip in the southern hemisphere, with those of earlier observers, at stations where the materials for such a comparison exist. ASCENSION. Observer. Date. Variation, La Caille sas -8Y54 Ml, 10 N. Cook eee pea GO 5 7a Sagire) 6 a ss LO22" ASO Ne Duperrey o 0 pf 1B 25) 958 N: Fitz-Roy fa MORO Gi | SOUN: St. HELENA. La Caille oe RLY. 1. Oc OL. Cook Se hate I ae re: Fitz-Roy.. .-. 1836 18. 01S. Carr oF Goop Hope: La Caille we 75d (ASS) OD: Bayley, ew so. M772 45. 37S. Bayley i ve0 vie 775) dd Ouse Abercrombie .. 1775 46. 26S. Bayley .. «» 1776 46.31 S. Freycinet oe £818" So. 7S. Fitz- Roy Ae VO30y 58095. Mauritius (Port Lovts). La Caille.. .. 1754 52. 1758. Duperrey es 1824 53. 5158. Fitz- Roy TW OR9O. 54. O1GS. OTAHEITE. Cook vs ee) LTS BO: 488. Cook to ee L774 20. Ao Ss. Bayley vee ouce'y) 1777 20-,:47..8: Duperrey -. 1029 90. 09 B. Erman .. .- 1830 90, 20,5S. Fitz-Roy -» 1835 30.13,5S. Lima AND CALLAO. Feulllée .. .» 1710 10. 305, Humboldt o» £709" Qs 50:8: Duperrey Sof) (B28 8 88.199 Ss Fitz-Roy .. a ROS ge ee MO aly. VALPARAISO. Malaspina se MET OD 8a MOS. Vancouver -- 1795 44. 15S. MIMERG [oc ele Vu hOzy | 8G. .50 9s King oe ae) | NO2ZQ) AOL Tlie Fitz-Roy .. .. 1835 938. 03S. CoNCEPCION. Feuillée .. .. 1710 55. 30S. Perouse .. .- 1786 50. 00 §, Duperrey ~ () 1829" (Ya ges, Observer, Date. Variation. Littke’ 0 0. ae 45. 33 S. King ee ee 1020 4. se) ae, Fitz-Roy .. 1. 1835° 430/15 8. Kine GrorGE Sounp. Vancouver .. 1791 64. 54S. Flinders .. .. 1801 64. 01 S. Fitz-Roy .. 1836 64. 41 S. Van DieMEN’s Lanp. Cook co. ee) TR “ne. Mee. Bertrand .. .. 1792 70. 50S. Dentrecasteaux 1792 70. 30S, De Rossel oe) U9QG3" 70. 10%. Fitz-Roy.. .. 1836 70, 35S. SYDNEY. Flinders .. .. 1809 62. 52S Freycinet -. T8119 62. 45'S. Brisbane .. .. 1821 62. 368. Duperrey o» 1824 62, 20S. Fitz-Roy .. .- 1836 62. 49S. N.ZEALAND( Bay oF Isuanps). Duperrey .. 1824 59. 458. Fitz-Roy.. .. 1835 59. 32S. TIERRA DEL FuEGo. Bayley vices Lat. 55°. 22’; a 66. 548. Long. 70, 03. King howl ane Lat. 55°. 51; {sea 59. 44S. Long. 67. 34. FALKLAND IsLANDs. Freycinet... .. 1820 55. 208. Duperrey os) 1822) Sav aor. Fitz-Roy .. .. 1833-4 53. 258. Sra CaTHARINA. Duperrey ~. 1822 22, 548. King vie vows gO Q7e2e. aamas: Rio DE JANEIRO. La‘Caille .. 2... Py51. -20, o's. Freycinet ce TLOUE Pataca se King we, level O26. ize ORs Liitke (Pee Nara Sa Erman’ **.'. ..° #830 “13. 918. Ritz-Roy,.... | .1832 13,37 te. We may classify the changes which are taking place in the dip in the southern hemisphere in four divisions, characterised by an GENERAL REMARKS. 527 alternate increase and decrease of dip. Commencing with the meridian of Greenwich, and proceeding eastwardly round the hemisphere, we may distinguish the divisions as follows, in the order of their geographical succession. Ist. South dip increasing. ‘ annually. annually, St. Helena .. .. 1754 to 1775..6,9/| Cape of Good Hope 1775 to 1836. . 6,6: Do. -. .. 1775 to 1836..6,5 | Mauritius .. .. 1754 to 1824..1,3 Cape of Good Hope 1751 to 1775.-7,2 Do. os ee 10240 18362'0.6 To this division also belongs Ascension ; but as the north end of the needie dips at that island, the change is north dip diminishing, instead of south dip increasing. Ascension .. «. .. 175401775 ~- . 6,3 annually. Do. Sie) ete sirvoehi el 7 Vtg CORO SO Mie) lege ee 2d. South dip decreasing. New Zealand penitjoe ee O24 to'1025 .. | 7,2 annually,» 3d. South dip increasing. Otaheite Oo se tae Ve to 1030... 0,5 alnually, Ath. South dip decreasing. annually. annually. Lima and Callao .. 1710 to 1799..0,4/| Tierra del Fuego 1774 to 1628..8,0 Do. .. .. 1799 to 1835..4,9 | Falkland Islands 1820 to 1834..8,2 Valparaiso .. .. 1794 to 1835 10,0 | St@ Catharina .. 1822 to 1827..8,4 Concepcion... .. 1710to 1786..3,7 | Rio de Janeiro .. 1751 to 1817.. 4,8 Wot as +. 4178660 18952.8,3 Do. es ew 1817 to 1832..4,3 In the 2d and 3d divisions the annual change is small ; in the Ist and 4th considerably greater. It is greatest at the southern station in South America; the observations at Valparaiso, Con- cep¢cion, Tierra del Fuego» and the Falkland Islands, concur in shewing it to exceed 8’. The observations at Ascension, St. Helena, and the Cape of Good Hope, concur in shewing an annual change in that quarter of the Ist division exceeding 6’. As the south dip decreases in South America, and increases in Africa, it is obvious that somewhere intermediately the dip must be stationary. Between Africa and New Zealand, for the same ‘reason, there must be a second locality so characterised. Between New Zealand and Otaheite, a third ; and between Otaheite and the west coast of South America, a fourth. Captain Fitz-Roy has * This is derived from the observations of Captains Duperrey and Fitz-Roy at the Bay of Islands, in Lat. 35°. 16’. The intervalis short ; but the indication receives confirmation from the observations of Captains Cook and Vancouver at Dusky Bay, New Zealand, in Lat. 45°. 47’. Cook vias: a wae wy 47% obk We 3 se. Vancouver .. 1791 .. 69. 43 4 annual decrease 528 GENERAL REMARKS. stations in the second of these localities only, between Africa and New Zealand. At Hobart Town, Sydney, and King George Sound, there appears to have been little or no change in the dip since the commencement of the present century. The arrangement of the changes of dip in the southern hemis- phere in four divisions, characterised by an alternate increase and decrease of dip, is in correspondence with the double flexure of the lines of dip; and is a consequence of the western motion of the two southern magnetic poles. Careful observations made at St. Petersburgh, have shewn that the annual change of the dip in the northern hemisphere takes place altogether between the months of May and December; there being in fact a small movement in an opposite direction between December and May. This fact is of great interest in its bearing on the study of the causes of the magnetic phenomena. We have as yet no corresponding knowledge in regard to the southern hemis- phere. The magnitude of the annual change which Captain Fitz- Roy’s observations show is now taking place at the Cape of Good Hope, is deserving of attention in this respect. A large amount of annual change is obviously highly favourable for a determination of all the circumstances belonging to it; and its existence at the Cape, where there is already a fixed observatory, points to that station as most eligible for this investigation. The observations at Ascension shew that the epoch is fast approaching when the needle will pass from north to south dip at that island: it is extremely desirable that the period at which this change takes place should be determined with as much precision as possible. III. Intensity. I have discussed in theSeventh Report of the British Association, the very important inferences in regard to the general distribution of magnetism in the southern hemisphere, afforded by Captains King and Fitz-Roy’s most valuable series of intensity observa- tions ; but no inferences in regard to the changes which this phe- nomenon may be supposed to undergo can be drawn, as has been done in the cases of the variation and dip, because we possess no observations of the intensity made at a sufficiently early period to afford good materials for such a comparison. EDWARD SABINE. 529 CATALOGUE OF THE MORE INTERESTING SPECIMENS OF Natura HIsTORY THAT WERE COLLECTED DURING THE VOYAGE. MAMMALIA. 1, Mustenra ZoritLa. Desm :* The skunk. This animal-was found abundantly on the coast of Patagonia, between Monte Video and Cape Gregory, at the eastern entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens. It appeared to be the same species throughout the whole extent of the coast.— Mus: Zool. Soc. 2. MustTexa LutTris.—Lin. Lutra marina, Steller. Erxleb. Harlau ; Enhydra marina, Fleming. The sea otter exists, but not very plentifully, on the coast of Tierra del Fuego; we saw very few. The Fuegian Indians hunt them with dogs which are trained for the purpose—Museum Zool. Soc. 3. CANIS. The dogs belonging to the Fuegian Indians are certainly of the domesticated kind, originally obtained, probably, from the Spanish settlements at Buenos Ayres; generally they resemble the Esqui- maux breed, but are much more diminutive in size. 4. Canis VULPEs. Two if not three distinct species of the fox were brought home ; one, of a small size, was thought to be a novelty ; the other, perhaps, was only remarkable for its large size. Mr. Vigors thought the small one was quite new; the last is perhaps C. cinereo argenteus. —Museum of Zool. Soc. 5. FELIS PUMA. Several were seen: a skeleton was found on the shores of the Strait, supposed to be one of the above species. * Or Mephitis Americana ? VOL. I. 2M 5380 CATALOGUE—MAMMALIA. 6. Friis pasernos.—Desm. E. M. p. 231. Chat pampa, D’Azara, 1. 179. A variety of this species was given to me, by the Patagonian Indians, that had been recently killed; the skin was preserved, and. is now in the museum of the Zoological Society... The following is the description of my specimen : — The prevailing colour is a yellowish grey, deeper above, oat gradually blending into the colour of the belly, chin, neck, inner part of the legs, the region of the anus, and below the root of the tail, which are white; the under part of the neck and belly also are spotted with black, disposed in transverse bands; the fore arms have three similar transverse bands, and the thighs four encircling the legs ; ears white inside and tipped black ; eyes dark blue, eye- lids whitish, corner of the eyes black, particularly at the anterior or inner angle; claws whitish, and paws black; whiskers white, and some long white hairs over the eyes; the canine teeth aré very acute, and have the longitudinal grooves or angles deeply marked. ; Inches. Length of the body fron the extremity of the nose to the root of the tail .......000. dip eopondae ae aneieateaee tae Length of tail. .7... 06 Recisesserieedesccsese eon oc ewes rina 8. le Ditto heads.. 7 s..c<0cecee +e meee acscerecsecsaeanees ap eceeneeae 6 Breadth of head between the ears .......secsesceeceee . 2E Height/at the shoulder). g paulo plus ; poll. Habitat ad oras Americe meridionalis (Valparaiso). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod. This shell varies in its colour almost as much as Bulinus citrinus: 35. AcHATINA DonEeLui1.—No. 413 MSS. A. testd subalbidd, transversim substriatd, anfractu basalt ventricoséd ; long. =/, paulo plus ; lat. 25 poll. Habitat ad Lima. Must. nost. 36. ACHATINA DIAPHANA. A. testa subcylindraced, diaphand, transversim striatd ; long. 2; ; lat. 5; ; poll. Habitat ad insulam Juan Fernandez, in montibus. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod. 37. ACHATINA STRIGATA.—No. 462 MSS. A. testa diaphan4, subalbid4, creberrime transversim substriatd, stri- gis longitudinalibus castaneis raris ; anfractu basali subangulato ; long. 1} paulo plus ; lat. ©; paulo minus ; poll. Habitat in paludibus Brasilie (Santo Paulo). Mus. nost. 38. ACHATINA SORDIDA.—No. 798 MSS. A. testé subdiaphanaZ, subconicé, anfractu basali ventricoso ; long. & paulo plus; lat. 3 paulo plus ; poll. Habitat ad Brasiliam (Rio de Janeiro). Mus. nost. 39. ACHATINA SELLOVII. A. testé cylindraced transversim striata subdiaphana ; long. =?; 5 lat. qs 3 poll. Habitat ad Brasiliam (St. Catherine). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod. This shell, which I found at the city of Nossa Sena. de Estero, CATALOGUE—SHELLS. 555 I have dedicated to my friend, Dr. Sellow, whose researches in . Natural History for several years past in the interior of Brazil, are well known to the scientific world. 40, SUCCINEA FRAGILIS. S. testa ovato-acutd, diaphand, ventricosd, transversim striata, oblique subrugosd ; spird brevi; long. 39, paulo minus ; lat. 48; poll. Habitat ad insulam Juan Fernandez. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod. 41. SUCCINEA PATULA. S. testa diaphand, ovato-rotundatd, ventricosissima, transversim creber- ° AQ ° A ° A ° is A A A 4 rime striata ; spira brevissima ; apertura patuld ; long. 4 paulo plus ; lat. 3 paulo plus ; poll. Habitat ad insulam Juan Fernandez. MARINULA. Nov. Genus. Character Genericus. Testd ovaio-productd, sub-solidd ; apertura ovatd, integra ; colu- mellé bidentata, et basin versus uniplicatd ; dentibus magnis sub- remotis conniventibus, superiore maximo ; operculum nullum. 42, MARINULA PEPITA. M. testd ovato-productd, viridi-fuscd ; anfractibus sub-tumidis ; spird brevi; aperturd nigricante ; dentibus plicdque albidis ; long. a53 lat. ,4, ; poll. Habitat ad insulam Chilée. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod., G. Sowerby. This animal, which I have thought it necessary to assign to a new genus, appears to have for its nearest neighbours the genera Auricula and Pedipes. It was found on the wooden piles which sup- port the mole in the Bay of San Carlos, in Chiloe, below the wash of the high water. The mole stands out into the sea, and there is no fresh water near it, save a very little rill, which discharges its tiny stream more than fifty yards off. 43. LyMN@a DIAPHANA.—No. 349 MSS. L. testa turritd, transversim substriatd, anfractibus ventricosis ; long. 443 paulo plus; lat. 5; poll. Habitat ad fretum Magellanicum (Cape Gregory). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod. This shell was found in the fresh-water ponds in the neighbour- hood of Cape Gregory, which is on the continental side of the eastern end of the Strait of Magalhaens. 556 CATALOGUE—SHELLS. 44. AMPULLARIA CUMINGII. A. testd globosd, transversim striatd, subalbidd, longitudinaliter casta - neo-lineatd et fasciatd, epidermide virescente ; umbilico parvo ; lat. 1.7, ; long. 1-6; ; poll. Habitat in Sinu Paname (island of Saboga, in a small hill- stream). Mus. Brit. nost., Brod. From Mr. Cuming’s collection. I have named this shell after Mr. Cuming, from whom I received it. 45, NATICA GLOBOSA. N. testd globosd, tenui, ventricosissimd, corned, vel subalbidd, subtilis- simé striatd; spird brevi; umbilico parvo; operculo valdé tenui ; long. 43 paulo plus ; lat. 2; poll. Fahiiae ad fretum Magellanicum (Cape Gregory). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod. 46. NATICA CASTANEA. N. testd ovato-acutd castaned, albo-lineatd ; pene mediocri ; co- lumellé valde callosd ; umbilico mediocri ; long. +3 ; lat. 35; poll. Habitat ad Brasilig oras, circa Santos. Mus. nost. 47. TuRBOo LUGUBRIS. T. testd nigricante, striatd ; apertura argented ; labri margine nigrd, subcrenulatd ; operculo valde lapidoso, albo; long. 24; lat. 22 Jere; poll. Habitat ad Sinum Pefias. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod. 48. ODONTIS SUBPLICATA. O. testd granuloso-striatd, viridi-fuscd, nigro maculatd; umbilico me- diocri ; labrt margine sub-plicato ; lone 10 ; lat. 1% paulo plus ; poll. Habitat ad Brasiliam (Rio de Janeiro). Mus. Brit., nost. 49. LitTtToRINA FLAVA. L. testé longitudinaliter striatd, sub-flavd; spird brevis anfraciu basalt ventricoso ; columell@ purpurascentis margine et ie sub-flavd ; operculo nigricante ; long. 2 paulo plus ; lat. z'. poll. Habitat ad Brasiliam (Rio de J mY Mus. Brit., mac _ In young shells there are a few obscure reddish brown streaks crossing the striz. 50. LirtorinA PERDIX. L. testd striis elevatis balteatd, albidd, fusco-maculatd, striis intersti- tialibus minus elevatis, ambabus sub-cancellatis ; apertura albd, CATALOGUE—SHELLS. 557 labri margine tenui, castaneo-maculatd ; long. 43 ; lat. 4%; poll. Habitat 2 Mus. nost. 51. LirToRINA STRIATA. L. testd ovato-conicd, fuscd, striis elevatis scabrd ; spird brevis an- Sfractu basali tumido ; aperturd nigricante, basin versus strigd luteo- albd ornatd ; labri margine crenulato albo-fulvido; operculo nigro ; long. 4 paulo plus ; lat. =", feré ; poll. Habitat in Mari Atlantico boreali (Port Praya). Mus. Brit., nost. 52. MARGARITA FASCIATA, D. S. M. testé albidd, creberrimé striatd, purpureo fasciatd, apertura ar- gented ; long. 4. ; lat. °. feré ; poll. Habitat in Mari Ba aree Mus. nost. Portions of the striated surface are elevated into belts, which are of a purple colour. 53. MARGARITA VIOLACEA. M. testd sub-ovatd, eigiesels, spird brevt; anfractibus tumidis ; aperturd iridescente ; long. =’; ; lat. -8. fere ; poll. Habitat ad fretum Magellanicum. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod. Of this shell the Indians make their necklaces; it is found adher- ing to the leaves of the Fucus giganteus, and is the principal food of the Steamer or Racehorse Duck (Micropterus Patachont- cus, nob. in Proceedings of the Zoological Society, December 14, 1830, page lo). o4. MARGARITA CQ@RULESCENS. M. testé sub-complanatd, cere striatd, albido-lineatd, apertura avadescente ; lat.43 feré; long.15; poll. Habitat ad ae Magellanicum (Cape Gregory). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod. 09. TURRITELLA TRICARINATA. T. testa ee anfractibus tricarinatis ; carinis nodulosis ; long. 12; lat.-9, paulo minus ; poll. Habitat Be oras Americe meridionalis (Valparaiso). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod. The Carine are nodulous, or twisted like the strands of a rope ; the twists of the upper carina are in the direction of a water-laid, 558 CATALOGUE—SHELLS. or right-handed rope, and those of the two lower carin@ are in the opposite direction, or like what is termed a hawser-laid rope. Between these nodulous carin@ are elevated lines, and the base is very strongly striated. Found in deep water in the Bay of Valpa- raiso, Dead shells of this species are occasionally found thrown upon the beach, near the Almendral. 56.—TURRITELLA NODULOSA. T. testd elongato-turritd ; anfractibus striatis ; striis duabus maximis subnodulosis ; long. 141 ; lat. 7, fere ; poll. Habitat? Mus. Brit., nost. The two large stri@, which are remarkable for the nodules, are not far from the middle of each whorl, and generally are nearer the upper suture: of these the lowest is the largest. o¢7. MUREX SALEBROSUS. M. testd elongato-ovatd, subalbidd, fasciis fuscis, epidermide cinered ; spird brevis anfractibus angulatis, nodulosis ; aperturd oblongd ad basin angustd, castaned, intus albd ; labro interné denticulato, dentibus obtusis albis; columella rectd, lavi; canali brevi; long. 3-1, 5 lat. 2; poll. Habitat? Mus. nost., Geo. Sowerby. This species approaches Murex vitulinus very nearly ; the body- whorl is very much elongated, and the nodules which mark the angles of the whorl are formed of the more elevated parts of what may be termed coarse longitudinal plaits. 58. Murex RHOoDOCHEILUS. M. testd ventricosd, alba, fascits elevatis striatis ; septemfariam va- ricosd, varicibus roseis denticulatis ; aperturd rotundatd, rosed, in- tus albidd ; labri margine asperrimé denticulato ; caudd mediocro, sub-recurvd ; long.343 ; lat. 271; ; poll. Habitat 2 Mus. nost. 59. TRITON RANELLIFORMIS. T. testé ovato-fusiformi, subdepressd, albidd fusco fasciatd, costatd ; costis granulosis, interstitiis striatis 3 aperturd subrotundd, albidd ; columella subrugosd ; labro interne obtusé denticulato ; margine undulato ; epidermide ‘viridi-fuscd, scabrd; long. 33; ; lat. 18; poll. Habitat ad Sinum Peiias et oram occidentalem Americe meri- dionalis. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod. CATALOGUE—SHELLS. 559 The denticules of the outer lip are ranged in pairs, at regular and somewhat distant intervals. 60. TRITON SCABER. T. testd ovato-acutd, cancellatd ; spird elongatd ; epidermide fuscd, setosd ; aperturd albd granulosd ; labro interne obtusé denticulato ; long. ; lat. ; poll. Habitat ad oras Americe meridionalis (Valparaiso). Mus. nost. The denticules of the inner lip are more elevated than those of the last (T. ranelliformis), and are equidistant. It was fished up with the anchor in Valparaiso Bay. 61. MonocERos FUSOIDES. M. testd ventricosd, spird mediocri, anfractibus bicarinatis 3 anfractu basalt lineis elevatis admodum distantibus cincto ; apertura patuld ; dente labiali brevi, lato, obtuso ; canals producto, recto, integro ; operculo corneo ; long. 23; lat. 1% ; poll. Habitat ad oras Americe meridionalis (Concepcion). Mus. Brit., nost.. Brod. Approaching Fusus in its elongated and entire canal, while its exterior lip has the labial tooth which distinguishes Monoceros. The columella is not straight, as in all the other species, but curved, so as to make an angle in some specimens at the commencement of the canal, and in all it becomes very broad at the point where it is opposite to the tooth. The shell is of a reddish colour, ventricose, and girt with elevated lines, about a quarter of an inch apart. The spire has only two of these lines on each whorl, and has a bicarinated appearance. The aperture is wide, the outer lip sinuous, its tooth short, broad, and obtuse, and the operculum horny. The shell is seldom found in a perfect state, the beak being generally broken off, and the surface is, in all the specimens that I have seen, covered with a calcareous encrustation, entirely concealing the colours. 62. BuccINUM MURICIFORME. . B. testd ovato-fusiformi, cinered ; anfractibus tumidis, costellatis, costellis cancellatis ; aperturd castaneo-nigricante ; labri margine crenulato. Muricem mentiens ; long. 1; lat. ~2. ; poll. Habitat ad fretum Magellanicum. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod. The eggs of this species were found, and are preserved in spirits. 556 CATALOGUE—SHELLS. 63. BuccINUM sQUALIDUM. B. testd conico-fusiformi, fuscd ; anfractu basali ventricoso; spird mediocri ; aperturd fuscd, lutescenti, patuld; long. 115; lat. 12335 poll. Habitat? Mus. Brit., nost., Brod. 64. BuccINUM DEFORME. B, testd ovatd, subponderosd, subalbidd, fasciis duabus fuscis obscuris ; spird brevi ; anfractu basali subdepresso, suturam versus crasso ; columella valdé callosdé ; long. 1-9, ; lat. 1 paulo plus ; poll. Habitat ad flumen Plata (Gorriti). Mus. Brit., nost. The eggs of this shell, contained in a transparent orbicular nidus, the size of a turtle’s egg, were found thrown up on the sea-beach of the island. In the month of January they were observed in all stages of growth. A series was preserved in spirits, and presented to the College of Surgeons. 65. COLUMBELLA MITRIFORMIS. C. testd fustformi, luteo-rufescente, fasciis nigro-castanets, maculis albis tessellatd ; long. 31, ; lat. -3,; poll. Habitat? Mus. Brit., nost., Brod. 66. MITRA PUSILLA. M. testd ovato-acutd, ventricosd, fulvd, creberrimé costatd ; costis interstitiisque striatis, basi granulosd; spird brevi, anfractibus su- turam supereminentibus ; columelld quinque-plicatd; long. 2; lat. >, paulo plus; poll. Habitat? Mus. nost. The denticules of the outer lip are arranged in pairs, at regular, and somewhat distant, intervals. 67. VoLUTA. A fragment of a turbinated shell, bearing marks more assignable to Voluta than to any other genus, was found on the sea-beach in the neighbourhood of Cape Fairweather, on the east coast of Pata- gonia, in latitude 513° south. The remains appear to differ from Voluta Ancilla and V. Brasiliana. 557 COPIES OF ORDERS, His Majesty’s surveying vessel Adventure, Sea Bear Bay. Sir ; 27th March 1829. It is my direction, that when finally parting company from me, you proceed to the execution of the following orders, in company with the Adelaide schooner, the commander of which, upon our - meeting him, will receive instructions to put himself under your command. You will, as soon as possible, make the best of your way to Port Famine, stopping at Pecket Harbour to communicate with the Indians, should they be there, for the purpose of securing a sup- ply of guanaco meat for the ship’s company. At Port Famine you will immediately detach Lieutenant Sky- ring, with a boat and boat’s crew, in the Adelaide, to co-operate with Lieutenant Graves in surveying the Magdalen Channel and its communication with the sea; after which you will direct him to rejoin you, by the Barbara Channel, at Port Gallant, whither you will proceed, after completing your water at Port Famine ; on your way to which, if you should have an opportunity, the follow- ing bays, on the south side of the Strait, might be planned, wiz. Lyell Bay, Cascade Bay, San Pedro Bay, and Freshwater Bay (or Cove). The coast also to the west of the Barbara Channel, behind the islands of Charles and Ulloa, should be examined ; and of the northern arm of the Jerome Channel, called in the chart, Indian Sound, we know nothing. If, after the return of the Adelaide, you should find the weather so favourable as to permit your extending your exploration of those parts of the Strait which are yet unknown to us, you will remain for that purpose ; but, at all events, you are to leave the Strait by the middle of June, or the first of July at latest, and repair with the Adelaide to San Carlos, at the north end of Chilée, where you will find or hear of me, by the 10th of August. VOL. I. 20 558 COPIES OF ORDERS. In performing the above orders you will act as you may consider best for their most effectual execution, keeping in mind that the most desirable part is the survey of the Magdalen Channel. From our experience, last year, of the weather during the months of April and May, I am in hopes of your being able to work during those months, with success; but should you meet with bad weather, you will be most careful in not exposing your people unnecessarily to the severity of the climate. Upon detaching the Adelaide you will appoint Lieutenant Sky- ring to the superintendence of the service upon which she is sent, giving Lieutenant Graves instructions to that effect accordingly. I have, &c. (Signed) PuHiLuie Parker Kine, Commander and Senior Officer. His Majesty’s surveying sloop Beagle, Port Famine. SIR ; April 19, 1829. In obedience to the orders I have received from Commander Phillip Parker King, senior officer of the Expedition for the survey of a part of South America, it is my direction that you proceed immediately, in the Adelaide schooner, to survey as much of the Magdalen Channel and the Strait or Channel of Santa Barbara as you find practicable at this season of the year. If, in the execution of this service, you should find the season too much advanced to proceed without much risk to the vessel, or exposing yourself and the men to much bad weather, you will give up the design, and hasten to Port Gallant. Should the Beagle not be in Port Gallant at your return, and no letter left for you in a bottle, you will wait there one week, and then return to Port Famine. At all events, you will endea- vour to rejoin the Beagle before the first week in June has ended. I have, &c. (Signed) Rosert Frrz-Roy, To Lieut. Wm. Geo. Skyring, Commander. His Majesty’s sloop Beagle. COPIES OF ORDERS. 559 Sir; Beagle, Port Famine, 19th April 1829. In obedience to the orders I have received from Captain King, it is my direction that you put yourself under the orders of Lieut. Skyring, and proceed with him as he may think best for the execution of the service upon which he is ordered, and in which you will give him every assistance that you can afford. Mr. Kirke, with a boat and boat’s crew, will be sent to assist you. I have, &c. (Signed) Rosert Frrz-Roy, To Lieut. Thos. Graves, Commander. Commanding His Majesty's schooner Adelaide. SIR ; Beagle, Port Gallant, 19th June 1829. It is my direction that you put yourself under the orders of Lieutenant Skyring, and co-operate with him in the execution of the service on which he is about to be employed. Mr. Kirke, with a boat and five men, will be sent to assist. I have, &c. (Signed) Rosert Firz-Roy.. To Lieut. Thos. Graves, Commander. His Majesty’s schooner Adelaide. SIR ; Beagle, Port Gallant, June 19th 1829. It is my direction that as soon as you consider the rates of the chronometer on board the Adelaide sufficiently settled, you proceed in her to search for, and, if practicable at this season of the year, survey such part of the passage which is supposed to lead from the vicinity of Cape Tamar to Concepcion Strait and the Gulf of Trinidad, as your time and provisions will allow. Your chief object will be to open a passage from Cape Three Points to Cape Tamar, between the mass of islands which lie between those capes. Dor 560 COPIES OF GRDERS. When to the northward of Cape Tamar, and before reaching as far north as Oracion Bay, or the latitude of 52° 6’, should you notice an opening to the eastward, with a current or stream of tide setting through it, and an appearance of its joining another body of water, of considerable extent, you will endeavour to ascertain whether it communicates with the Skyring Water, provided that in so doing you do not turn from your chief object more than a few days. In the execution of the above orders you will act as you may consider best for the service of his Majesty; and if, at any time before its completion, you find your provisions getting short, the climate too severe, or yourself, or those under your orders, in bad health, you will immediately make the best of your way to Chilée. You will endeavour to be at San Carlos, in the island of Chilée, before the 20th of September, and will let nothing that can be avoided detain you beyond that time. I have, &c. (Signed ) Rogert Frrz-Roy, To Lieutenant Wm. Geo. Skyring, Commander. His Majesty’s sloop Beagle. By Phillip Parker King, Esq., Commander of His Majesty’s sur- veying vessel Adventure, and Senior Officer of an Expedition for the survey of a part of South America. As soon as you shall have completed the rates of your chrono- meters and be otherwise ready, it is my direction that you proceed to sea in His Majesty’s sloop under your command, to survey the sea-coast of Tierra del Fuego, from Cape Pillar to the east entrance of the Strait of Magellan, in the progressive examination of which you will be guided by the state of the weather, and other circum- stances, keeping in view that the most interesting part of the coast is that portion between Christmas Sound and the Strait Le Maire, particularly the openings of New Year Sound and Nassau Bay, and the openings to the eastward of the latter as far as New Island; as there is reason to believe that there is a considerable body of water to the eastward of the termination of Admiralty COPIES OF ORDERS. 561 Sound, communicating with the sea by some one if not many open- ings in the neighbourhood of Nassau Bay, and with an outlet on the N.E. coast (St. Sebastian Channel); and as the existence of such, a strait would be of the greatest importance to small vessels bound to the westward round Cape Horn, you will see it fitting not to spend so much time to the westward of Cape Noir as may in the least impede the determination of the question, or prevent it being completely explored. It is my intention to be at Port Famine by the Ist of April, and at Rio de Janeiro by the Ist June, calling in my way at Monte Video, or Gorriti, for chronometrical observations; and if I can, conveniently, I shall also go to Port Desire for the same purpose. But as it is at present uncertain what orders I may find for me at Valparaiso, you are to act accord- _ ing to your own discretion, so that you arrive at Rio by the 20th of June to rejoin me. Given under my hand, on board the Adventure, at St. Carlos de Childe, November 18th, 1829. Priturp P. Kine, Commander. To Robert Fitz-Roy, Esq., Commander of H.M.S. Beagle. By Phillip Parker King, Esq., Commander of His Majesty’s sur- veying vessel Adventure, and Senior Officer of an Expedition for the survey of a part of South America. As soon as the Adelaide Tender is ready, you will proceed to sea, in the execution of the following orders : — As your principal object will be to trace the main-land from the peninsula of Tres Montes to the southward, by penetrating into all the openings that lead easterly, you will commence at the Channel Mouths, and explore them to their termination. In the event of their affording a communication with the Gulf of Trinidad, and your having time, you will examine the channels that you have reported to exist in the neighbourhood of Neesham Bay, so as to complete the Fallos Channel, which separates Cam- pana from the land within it. Should the Channel Mouths not afford the expected termina- tion, you will proceed through the Mesier or Fallos Chamnels, in 562 COPIES OF ORDERS. which, and in the channels more to the southward, you will explore all openings leading into the interior, and, if possible, not lose sight of the main-land until you reach the Strait of Magellan ; by doing which it is expected, from the results of your last survey, that you will pass through the Skyring and Otway Waters, and enter the Strait by the Jerome Channel. The above being the principal object of your operations, you will take every opportunity of examining all other interesting parts of the coast, in the vicinity of your anchorages, among which the following seem to be of most interest :— The Guaianeco Islands, and the probable place of the Wager’s wreck, which would seem to be to the southward of, and not far from the Dundee Rock of your former survey. If time afforded, it would be interesting to lay down the shores of Concepcion Strait ; also to examine the deep opening on the west side of St. Estevan Channel, in the latitude of 51° 8. Lord Nelson Strait is also of much interest, and any extension of our knowledge of the land that bounds the western side of Smyth Channel. But in these you will be guided by your own discretion, keep- ing in mind the principal object of the present survey, that of tracing the shores of the main-land. The Adventure will be at Port Famine by the Ist of April, if nothing occurs to prevent it; and at Rio de Janeiro by the Ist of June, where you will rejoin me; but you are at liberty to call at Monte Video, on your way, for any supplies which you may require. 2 (Signed) Puituir P, Kine. 7th Dec. 1829. San Carlos de Childe. To Lieutenant W. G. Skyring, commanding H.M. schooner Adelaide, Tender to H.M.S, Adventure. Some Observations relating to the Southern Extremity of South America, Tierra del Fuego, and the Strait of Magalhaens ; made during the Survey of those Coasts in his Majesty’s ships Adventure and Beagle, between the years 1826 and 1830. By Captain Phillip Parker King, F.R.S., Commander of the Ex- pedition. |The original paper, from which the following observations have been extracted, was read before the Geographical Society of London on the 25th of April and 9th of May 1831; and was printed in the Journal of that Society for the same year. It is here reprinted, with a few omissions and very slight alterations, in order that this volume may contain all that the Author has yet published respecting South America; excepting particular Sailing Directions. | oe ConsIDERING the vast extent of the sea-coast of the southern extremity of America, it is not a little surprising that it should have been so frequently passed by, during the last century, without having been more explored. Within the last twenty years, how- ever, it has been very much resorted to by English and American vessels in the seal trade, and to the observing portion of their enterprising crews many of its intricacies are well known; but as the knowledge they have derived from their experience has only in one instance, that of Mr. Weddell’s voyage, been published to the world, our charts cannot be said to have been much improved for the last fifty years. The eastern coast of Patagonia, by which name the country between the River Plata and the Strait of Magalhaens* is known, * There has existed much difference of opinion as to the correct mode of spelling the name of this celebrated navigator. The French and English usually write it Magellan, and the Spaniards Magallanes; but by the Portuguese, (and he was a native of Portugal,) it is universally written Magalhaens. Admiral Burney and Mr. Dalrymple spell it Magal- hanes, which mode J have elsewhere adopted : but I have since convinced myself of the propriety of following the Portuguese orthography for a name, which to this day is very common both in Portugal and Brazil. 564 FORMER CHARTS AND PLANS. was coasted, as well as the north-eastern side of Tierra del Fuego, by Malaspina ; and the charts of his voyage not only vie with any contemporaneous production for accuracy and detail, but are even now quite sufficient for the general purposes of naviga- tion. The Strait of Magalhaens has been explored by several navi- gators ; but, among the numerous plans of it extant, those of Sir John Narborough and Cordova are the most correct. The first is particularly noticed in the late Admiral Burney’s- very useful work, and the result of the last has been published in the Spanish language, and is entitled « Ultimo Viage al Estrecho de Magallanes.” A second voyage was also made by Cordova to the Strait, the proceedings of which form an appendix to the above work. It is furnished with a good general chart of the coast, another of the Strait, and many plans of the anchorages within it. Byron, Wallis, Carteret, and Bougainville, had already made considerable additions to Narborough’s plan, from which a chart had been compiled that answered all the purposes of general geographical information, and might even have been sufficient for navigation: for the latter purpose, however, Cordova’s chart was much superior ; but, being published in Spain only, and. its existence little known in England, 1 found great difficulty in pro- curing a copy before I sailed, for my own use. The southern coast of Tierra del Fuego, between Cape Good Success, the southern limit of Strait le Maire, and Cape Pillar at the western end of the Strait of Magalhaens, was very little known. Cook’s voyage affords several useful notices of the coast between Cape Deseado and Christmas Sound, and the Dutch fleet under Hermite partially explored the neighbourhood of Cape Horn: a confused chart of this coast, however, was the best that could be put together ; and although Mr. Weddell has more recently published an account of the harbours and anchorages near Cape Horn and New Year Sound, yet little available benefit was derived from it, because these different navigators having confined their examinations to small portions of the coast, it was difficult to connect their respective plans, even on so small a scale as that of the general chart. The western coast of South America, which is very intricate, extending from Cape Victory (the north-west entrance of the SARMIENTO—MODERN SURVEYS. 565 Strait of Magalhaens) to the island of Childe, may be said to have been wholly unknown ; for since the time of Sarmiento de Gamboa nothing in the least descriptive of it had been pub- lished, with the exception of the brief notices of two missionary voyages in piraguas, from Childe to the Guiateca and Guaianeco islands. Every person conversant with South American geography, must be acquainted with the voyage of Sarmiento. From the deter- mined perseverance shown by that excellent and skilful navigator, through difficulties of no ordinary nature, we are possessed of the details of a voyage down the western coast, and through the Strait of Magalhaens, that has never been surpassed. His journal has furnished us with the description of a coast more difficult and dangerous to explore than any which could readily be selected-—for it was at that time perfectly unknown, and is exposed to a climate of perpetual storms and rain: yet the account is written with such minute care and correctness, that we have been enabled to detect upon our charts almost every place described in the Gulf of Trinidad, and the channels to the south of it, particularly their termination at his Ancon sin Salida. It would be irrelevant to enter here into the history of Sar- miento’s voyage, or indeed of any other connected with these coasts. Modern surveys are made so much more in detail than those of former years, that little use can be made of the charts and plans that have been hitherto formed ; but the accounts of the voyages connected with them are replete’ with interesting and useful matter, and much amusement as well as information may be derived from their perusal, particularly Sir John Narborough’s journal, and Byron’s romantic and pathetic narrative of the loss of the Wager. The Cordillera of the Andes, which is known to extend from the northern part of the continent almost to its southern extremity, decreases in elevation near the higher southern latitudes. In the neighbourhood of Quito, Chimborazo and Pinchincha rear their summits to the height of nearly twenty-two thousand feet above the level of the sea; near Santiago de Chile the highest land is supposed to be fourteen thousand feet ; farther south, near Con- cepcion, it is lower ; and near Childe there are few parts of the range exceeding seven thousand feet. Between Childe and the 566 HEIGHTS——-WESTERN COAST. Strait of Magalhaens the average height may be taken at three thousand feet ; though there are some mountams which may be between six and seven thousand feet high. By a reference to the chart it will be seen that about the parallel of 40° the coast begins to assume, and retains to its furthest extre- mity, a very different appearance from that which it exhibits to the northward, where the sea, which is kept at a distance from the Cordillera by a belt of comparatively low land for continuous intervals of some hundred miles, washes a long unbroken shore, affording neither shelter for vessels nor landing for boats; but, to the southward of that parallel, its waters reach to the very base of the great chain of the Andes, and, flowing as it were into the deepravines that wind throughits ramifications, form numerous channels, sounds, and gulfs, and, in many instances, insulate large portions of land. In fact, the whole of this space is fronted by large islands and exten- sive archipelagoes, of which the most conspicuous are the great island of Childe, Wellington Island, the Archipelago of Madre de Dios, Hanover Island, and Queen Adelaide Archipelago. The last forms the western entrance of the Strait on its north side. The land of Tres Montes, however, is an exception: it is a penin- sula, and is the only part of the continent within the above limits that is exposed to the ocean’s swell. It forms the northern part of the Gulf of Pefias, and is joined to the main by the narrow isthmus of Ofqui, over which the Indians, in travelling along the coast, carry their canoes, to avoid the extreme danger of passing round the peninsula. It was here that Byron and his shipwrecked com- panions crossed over with their Indian guides: but it is a route that is not much frequented ; for this part of the coast is very thinly inhabited, and the trouble of pulling to pieces and recon- structing the canoes,* an operation absolutely necessary to be performed, is so great, that I imagine it is only done on occa- sions of importance. In this way the piraguas which conveyed the missionary voyagers to the Guaianeco Islands were transported * During our examination of this part, our boats ascended the river San Tadeo, and endeavoured in vain to find any traces of the road; an almost impenetrable jungle of reeds and underwood lined the banks of the river, and time was too valuable to admit of further delay, in search of an object comparatively of minor importance. WESTERN PATAGONIA. 567 over the isthmus; the particulars of which are fully detailed in their journals.* The river San Tadeo, although of small size, being navigable only for eleven miles, is the largest river of the coast south of the archipelago of Childe, and therefore merits a particular description. At seven miles from the mouth it is fed by two streams or torrents, the currents of which are so strong that a fast-pulling boat can hardly make way against it. One of these streams takes its rise in a mountainous range, over which perhaps the communicating road passes; and the other is the drain of an extensive glacier or plain of ice of fifteen miles in extent. The river falls into the Gulf of St. Estevan over a shallow bar, upon which there is scarcely two feet water, and at low tide is probably dry. At the head of St. Estevan Gulf is St. Quintin Sound ; both were examined and found to afford excellent anchorage, and they are both of easy access should a ship, passing up the coast, find herself upon a lee shore and not able to weather the land, as was the case with the ill-fated Wager.t The Guaianeco islands form the southern head of the Gulf of Pefias; then follows Wellington Island, separated from the main by the Mesier Channel, which had not been previously explored, its mouth only being laid down in the charts, compiled from the information of Machado, a pilot who was sent in 1769 by the Viceroy of Peru to examine the coast from Childe to the Strait * Agiieros, Descripcion Historial de la Provincia y Archipielago de Chilée, 1791, p. 229. + The precise situation of the wreck of this vessel had hitherto been very vaguely marked on our charts: a careful perusal, however, of Byron’s narrative, and of Agiieros’ account of the Missionary Voyages in 1779, sufficiently points out the place within a few miles. It is on the north side, near the west end of the easternmost of the Guaianeco islands, which we named, in consequence, Wager Island. At Port Santa Barbara, seven- teen miles to the southward of this group, a very old worm-eaten beam of a vessel was found, which there is reason to think may be a relic of that unfortunate ship. It was of English oak, and was found thrown up above the high-water mark upon the rocks at the entrance of the port. No other vestige was detected by us ;—the missionaries, however, found broken glass bottles, and other evident traces of the wreck. At Childe I saw aman who had formed one of this enterprising party, and obtained from him a curious and interesting account of those voyages. 568 WESTERN PATAGONIA. of Magalhaens.* This channel is also noticed in one of the two missionary voyages above mentioned ; but the object of these expeditions being for the purpose of converting the Indians to Christianity,; and not for the extension of geographical know- ledge, little information of that nature could be obtained from their journal: the entrance of the Mesier, however, is described by them; and on one occasion they were obliged to take refuge in it for fifteen days.{ With this exception I cannot find that it had ever been entered before our visit. The length of the channel is one hundred and sixty miles, and it joins the Concepcion Strait behind the Madre de Dios archipe- lago, at the Brazo Ancho of Sarmiento. Lieutenant Skyring, who superintended this particular part of the survey, called the land which it insulates, Wellington Island; the seaward coast of which is fronted by several islands. Fallos Channel, which sepa- rates the Campaiia and Wellington Islands, was examined, from its northern entrance, for thirty-three miles, and was conjectured, after communicating with the sea at Dynely Sound, to extend to the southward, and fall into the Gulf of Trinidad by one of the deep sounds which were noticed on the north shore. About thirty miles within the Mesier Channel, from the northern extremity, the west side appears to be formed by a succession of | large islands, many of which are separated by wide channels lead- ing to the south-west, and probably communicating with the Fallos Channel. On the eastern shore the openings were found to be either narrow inlets or abruptly terminating sounds. On both sides of the channel the coast is hilly, but not very high, and in many places there is much low and generally thickly wooded land. This character distinguishes the Mesier from other channels in these regions. The trees here are nearly of the same description as those which are found in all parts between Cape Tres Montes and the Strait of Magalhaens. Of these the most common are an evergreen beech (Fagus betuloides), a birch-like beech (Fagus antarctica), the Winter’s bark (Winterana aromatica§), and a tree with all the appearance and habit of a cypress, of which the Indians make their * Agiieros, p. 205, et seq. + Ibid. p.181,etseq. ft Ibid. p. 237. § Living plants of the above trees, and other vegetable productions from the Strait of Magalhaens, were introduced into England upon the return of the expedition, and have since thriven exceedingly well. WESTERN PATAGONTA. 569 spears. Among others there is one, the wood of which being ex- tremely hard and weighty, answers better than the rest for fuel : the sealers call it ‘the red wood,’ from its colour. From the great quantity of timber which grows here it would be naturally supposed probably that spars for masts could be easily obtained, or at least wood useful for less important purposes; but although many trees were found that were sufficiently large at the base, they grew to no great height ; and, in consequence of the moisture of the climate, and the crowded state of the forests preventing the admission of the sun’s rays, the wood generally proved to be decayed in the heart; besides being very apt, even after a long seasoning, to warp and split when exposed to a dry air. Ten miles beyond White-kelp Cove, which is fifty miles within the entrance, the character of the Mesier Channel changes entirely ; the shore on either side being formed of mountainous and preci- pitous ridges rising abruptly from the water. After this, at Halt Bay, twenty-three miles beyond White-kelp Cove, the channel narrows for a considerable distance, and in three particular places is not more than four hundred yards wide. This part of the channel is called in the chart the English Narrow. It is long aud intricate, with many islands strewed throughout; and preserves its tortuous and frequently narrow course to its junction with the Wide Channel, in which the breadth increases to two miles and a half; and then, running thirty-four miles with a direct and unim- peded course, falls into the Concepcion Strait as above stated. At the point where the Mesier and the Wide Channels unite, a deep sound extends to the N.N.E. for forty-six miles. It was named Sir George Eyre Sound. An extensive glacier sloping into the sea from the summit of a range of high snowy mountains, that are visible from many parts of the Mesier Channel, terminates this sound ; and near the head of it several large icebergs, contain- ing no inconsiderable blocks of granite, were found aground.* * Near Falcon Inlet, seven miles up the eastern side of Sir George Eyre Sound, are some large ‘ rookeries,’ or breeding-haunts, of fur- seal. Many thousands of these animals were congregated together, which probably had been driven from the sea-coast by the activity of the seal-fishers ; and perhaps, for many years, if not ages, have been breeding undisturbed in this hitherto unknown, and therefore safe and quiet recess, ‘T'wo seals that were killed appeared to be of the same description as the species which frequents the sea-coasts. 570 WEST AND SOUTH PATAGONIA. Of the archipelago of Madre de Dios we know very little. It has probably many deep openings on its seaward face, and is fronted by islands and rocks. Its character is rocky and moun- tainous, and by no means agreeable. The wide and safe channel of Concepcion Strait separates it from the main land, which in this part is much intersected by deep sounds, the principal of which, the Canal of San Andres, extends to the base of the snowy range of the Cordillera, and there Lieutenant Skyring describes it to be suddenly closed by immense glaciers. Behind Hanover Island, which is separated from Madre de Dios by the Concepcion Strait, the main-land is very much inter- sected by sounds like the San Andres Channel, extending to the base of the Andes. South of Hanover Island is Queen Adelaide Archipelago, through which are several channels that communicate with the Strait of Magalhaens ; of which the principal, Smyth Channel, falls into the Strait at Cape Tamar. In the winter of 1829, Captain Robert Fitz-Roy, then command- ing the Beagle, in examining the Jerome Channel, which com- municates with the Strait in that part called Crooked Reach, discovered ‘ Otway Water,’ an inland sea fifty miles long, trending to the N.E., and separated from the eastern entrance of the Strait by a narrow isthmus ; the actual width of which was not ascer- tained, for in the attempt the boats were nearly lost. The south- eastern shore is high and rocky, and generally precipitous, but the northern is formed by low undulating grassy plains, free from trees, and precisely like the country about the eastern entrance of the Strait. At the north-west corner of the water a passage was found leading in a north-west direction for twelve miles, when it opened into another extent of water, about thirty-four miles long and twenty wide. This he called the Skyring Water. Its southern and western sides are bounded by mountainous land, but the northern shore is low, apparently formed of undulating downs and grassy plains, and in some places watered by rivulets. At the western extremity of the water two openings were observed, separated by a remarkable castellated mountain which was called Dynevor Castle. Beyond the southernmost opening there was no land visible, not even a distant mountain, which induced Captain Fitz-Roy to suppose that it was a channel communicating with the OTWAY AND SKYRING WATERS. 571 western coast ; but from what we now know, it is not probabie that it can lead to anything of consequence. It is, perhaps, backed by low marshy land reaching to the hills at the bottom of Glacier Bay, which, from the distance being seventy miles, were not visible above the horizon. The northern opening probably passes Dynevor Castle, and, perhaps, nearly reaches the bottom of Obstruction Sound. The Skyring Water was not further ex- plored; partly from want of a sufficient quantity of provisions to undertake it with any prospect of succeeding, and partly from a strong south-westerly gale, from which there was no shelter for the open boats in which this examination was performed. The remainder, therefore, of Captain Fitz-Roy’s time was spent in com- pleting what he had commenced ; and, after an absence of thirty- two days, he rejoined his ship at Port Gallant. At the western end of the passage, which unites the waters, the shore is well clothed on the north side with luxuriant grass and trefoil, with here and there a sprinkling of brushwood, but is entirely destitute of trees. The soil, although dry, is light, and tolerably good ; but the ground is perforated everywhere by some burrowing animal, probably skunks, or cavias. The tracks of horses were noticed in many places, and the bones of guanacoes were scattered about. Water was not very plentiful, but several small brooks and springs in the sides of the hills were observed, sufficient for all useful purposes. On the south side of the passage the land is low, but wooded: the banks are from five to forty feet high, sloping to the water, and covered with grass. In the entrance the tide ran five or six knots at the neaps, but inside with only half that rapidity. On the north side, at the distance of a mile and a-half, there is a ridge of hills, to the summit of which Captain Fitz-Roy made an excursion, which is described in the Narrative. In consequence of the supposed communication of the Skyring Water with some part of the western coast, a careful examination was made of every opening trending into the interior behind the islands and archipelagoes that line the western coast ; the result of which has proved that the hypothesis so naturally formed was not confirmed by fact. A reference to the chart will show how care- fully the search was carried on, and with what want of success it was concluded. The deep opening discovered by Sarmiento, and 572 OBSTRUCTION SOUND. named by him, ‘ Ancon sin salida,’ was found, upon examination, to extend so far into the interior, and in the direction of the Skyring Water, that the most strict investigation of the numerous sounds and canals was made, in the perfect conviction of finding the desired communication, But after a patient, laborious, and minute examination, particularly of those openings which led to the southward, among which Obstruction Sound held the most flattering appearance, Lieutenant Skyring, who performed this service, was obliged to give up the search and return. At one part, near the south-eastern end of the sound, he entered an open- ing, which at first had an appearance that was favourable to the desired communication, but it terminated in low, woody land. There was, however, a hill near the shore, which he ascended with the hope of obtaining a view of the country ; but the sides and summit of the hill were so thickly wooded as to obstruct his view, and with the exception of some distant high land in the south-east quarter, and a sheet of water about six miles off in the same bear- ing, nothing was discerned to repay him for the fatigue and trouble of the ascent. Whether the water is a lagoon, or a part of the Skyring Water, or whether it communicates with the opening trending round the north side of Dynevor Castle, yet remains to be ascertained. Being foiled in this attempt, Lieutenant Skyring proceeded onward in a S8.S.W. direction, and after a pull of ten miles came to the bottom of the sound, which was terminated by high, precipi- tous land encircling every part. Neither wigwams nor traces of Indians were seen, another proof, were one required, of the sound not communicating with the Skyring Water ; for the Indians very rarely visit these deep inlets, but are always to be found in nar- row straits or communicating channels, where, from the strength of the tide, seals and porpoises, which constitute the principal food of the Fuegian Indians, abound. Sarmiento’s name, therefore, of ‘Ancon sin salida,’ which we had hoped to have expunged from the chart, must now remain, a lasting memorial of his enterprising character, and of a voyage deservedly one of the most celebrated, as well as most useful, of the age in which it was performed. The termination of Obstruction Sound is one of the most remark- able features in the geography of this part of South America. In this examination the southern extremity of the Cordillera was ANCON SIN SALIDA. 573 ascertained. The eastern shores of the interior channels were found to be low plains, with no hills or mountains visible in the distance ; and such being characteristic also of the northern shores of the Otway and Skyring Waters, it is probable that all the coun- try to the east of the sounds is a continued plain. Recent traces of Indians were seen in some places; but at the time our party was there, they were either absent or had concealed themselves. I should not think that these interior sounds are much frequented by them; a family was, however, met in the passage between the Otway and the Skyring Water, clothed with guanaco skins, like the Patagonian tribes, but in manners and disposition resembling the wandering inhabitants of the Strait and Tierra del Fuego ; and they had canoes, which the Patagonians do not use. They had probably come thus far for the purpose of communicating with the latter tribes, with whom they frequently have friendly intercourse. No guanacoes were seen either on the shores of the inland waters or of the sounds within the ‘ Ancon sin salida,’ although the country, being open and covered with luxuriant grass, was peculiarly suited to their habits; but as several large herds of deer were observed feeding near the sea-~ shore of Obstruction Sound, and the neighbouring country, the presence of these latter animals may probably be the cause ; for on the eastern coast, where the guanacoes are every where abun- dant, the deer do not make their appearance. Sea-otters were the only other animals that we met with ; but they were only occasion- ally noticed, swimming about the kelp. The shores of the sounds were in many places crowded with the black-necked swan (Anas nigricollis, Linn.), and there were afew seen, but only one cap- tured, whose plumage, excepting the tips of the wings, which were black, was of a dazzling white colour. I have described it in the first part of the Proceedings of the Zoological Society as a new species (Cygnus anatoides. ) The Strait of Magalhaens, being a transverse section of the continent, exhibits a view of its geological structure. The Strait may be divided into three portions; the western, the central, and the eastern. The western and central are of primitive character, rugged and very mountainous ; but the eastern portion is of recent formation and low. The western tract is composed of a succession of stratified rocks, a difference at once distinguishable by the form you... 2? 574: GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. and nature of the ranges, and the direction of the shores: the hills are irregularly heaped together ; the sounds are intricate and tortuous in their course, and the shores are formed by deep sinuosities and prominently projecting headlands: the channels, also, are studded with innumerable islands and rocks extremely dangerous for navigation. In this portion the rock is, for the most part, granite and greenstone. Near the centre of the Strait, the rock being clay-slate, the mountains are higher, and more precipitous and rugged in their outline ; and consequently not easily to be ascended. They are in general three thousand feet, but some are found to: be four thou- sand feet, in height; and one, Mount Sarmiento, is upwards of six thousand feet high, and is covered throughout the year with snow. The line of perpetual snow in the Strait seems to be about three thousand five hundred feet above the sea: the mountains, whose height does not exceed three thousand, are, during the summer, frequently free from any, excepting in holes, where a large quantity is accumulated by drifting, and protected from the sun. The Strait here is quite free from islands, and it is a remark- able fact, that where the greenstone formation terminates, there the islands cease to appear. The slate formation continues as far as Freshwater Bay, where the stratified rocks leave the coast and extend in a north-west direction. The soil then becomes apparently a mixture of decom- posed slate and clay ; the slate gradually disappearing on approach- ing to Cape Negro, where the rock partakes of the character of the east coast. Here again we observe, along with the change of geological character, the re-appearance of islands, the soil of which is clayey, but with masses of granite, hornblende rock and clay slate protruding in many places through the superfi- cial soil, which, although it yields a poor grass, is entirely desti- tute of trees. In that portion of the Strait to the eastward of Cape Negro the hills are remarkable for the regularity and parallelism of their direction, and their general resemblance to each other. On the north shore, near Cape Gregory, a range of high land commences suddenly, with rather a precipitous ascent, and extends for forty miles to the north-east, where it terminates in detached rocky hills. The south-western end of the range is a ridge of flat-topped I t GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. BS land covered with soil, but with here and there a protruding mass of primitive rock: one of these appeared to be of sienite or granite. The north-eastern end of this range is perhaps more bare of soil, and, therefore, exposes the rock, which shows itself in detached hills. Precisely similar in appearance and direction is a range on the south shore, about fifty miles in length, commencing at Cape Monmouth and terminating in detached hills in the vicinity of the south side of the First Narrow. The courses, also, of both the First and Second Narrow, which are just within the eastern entrance of the Strait, are nearly parallel with these hills; and the smaller ranges of eminences, Elizabeth Island and the cliffy land of Cape Negro, where the clay formation commences, all trend to the N.N.E., preserving a general resemblance of form and character to the two ranges above mentioned. The irregularity of the topographic features of the western por- tion of the Strait, combined with its confused assemblage and im- mense number of islands and rocks ;—the regularity of the strata —the coinciding parallelism of all the bays, channels, and sounds, —and the total absence of islands in the central portion or slate formation ;—together with the remarkable similarity of the direc- tion of the hills and coast line, and the stratification of the north- eastern tract, which is very different from that of the centre ;— are very striking facts, and, geologically considered, are of great interest. No less remarkable, however, and equally interesting, is the character of the vegetation ; not so much in the variety of plants, as in their stunted growth to the westward, their luxuriance in the centre, and the total absence of trees to the eastward. For this mo- dification the following reasons seem to me to account sufficiently. To the westward the decomposition of granite, and the other pri- mitive rocks which are found there, forms but a poor, unproductive soil; so that, although the land is thickly covered with shrubs, they are all small and stunted: the torrents of water also that pour down the steep sides of the hills, wash away the partial accumula- tions of soil that are occasionally deposited ; consequently, few trees are to be found, excepting in clefts and recesses of the rock, where decomposed. vegetable matter collects and nourishes their growth; but even there they are low and stunted, for the most luxuriant seldom attain a larger diameter than nine or ten inches. ig ee 576 VEGETATION. From the regularity of the direction of the strata in the slate districts the vallies are very extensive, and, being bounded on either side by precipitous mountains much intersected by deep ravines, receive large streams of water, which, uniting together in their course to the sea, form no inconsiderable rivers. During the winter months these rivers become swollen and overflow their banks, and deposit a quantity of alluvium, which, blending with the fallen leaves and other putrescent substances, produces a good superficial soil, in which trees grow to a large size, and the shrubs and smaller plants become particularly luxuriant and productive. At Port Famine, and in its neighbourhood, the evergreen beech (Fagus betuloides) grows in the greatest abundance, and reaches a very large size. Trees of this species, of three feet in diameter, are abundant ; of four feet, there are many; and there is one tree (perhaps the very same noticed by Commodore Byron*), which measures seven feet in diameter for seventeen feet above the roots, and then divides into three large branches, each of which is three feet through. This venerable tree seemed to be sound, but from our experience of several others that were cut down, might be expected to prove rotten in the centre. This tendency to decaying in the heart may be attributed to the cold- ness of the schistose sub-soil upon which the trees are rooted, as well as to the perpetual moisture of the climate above alluded to. The slate formation ceases at Port St. Mary, but there is no decided change in the vegetation until we come to Cape. Negro, where the clay commences ; and from thence onwards there is not a tree to be found. The nature of the soil is not favourable to plants which take a deep root, and, therefore, only shrubs and grasses are found: the former are thinly scattered over the ex- tensive plains which characterise this country ; but the grasses are abundant, and although of a harsh and dry appearance, must be nourishing, for they form the chosen food of numerous and large herds of guanacoes. Besides the evergreen beech above-mentioned, there are but few other trees in the Strait that can be considered as timber trees. Such an appellation only belongs to two other species of beech and the Winter’s bark. The last, which is also an evergreen, is to be found mixed with the first, in all parts of the Strait; so that * Hawkesworth, Voyages, i. 38. VEGETATION—CLIMATE. 577 the country and hills, from the height of two thousand feet above the sea, to the very verge of the high-water mark, are covered with a perpetual verdure which is remarkably striking, particularly in those places where the glaciers descend into the sea; the sud- den contrast in such cases presenting to the view a scene as agree- able as it seems to be anomalous. I have myself seen vegetation thriving most luxuriantly, and large woody-stemmed trees of Fuchsia and Veronica* (in England considered and treated as tender plants), in full flower, within a very short distance of the base of a mountain, covered for two-thirds down with snow, and with the temperature at 36°, The Fuchsia certainly was rarely found except in sheltered spots, but not so the Veronica; for the beaches of the bays on the west side of San Juan Island at Port San Antonio are lined with trees of the latter, growing even in the very wash of the sea. There is no part of the Strait more ex- posed to the wind than this, for it faces the reach to the west of Cape Froward, down which the wind constantly blows, and brings with it a succession of rain, sleet, or snow; and in the winter months, from April to August, the ground is covered with a layer of snow, from six inches to two or three feet in depth. There must be, therefore, some peculiar quality in the atmos- phere of this otherwise rigorous climate which favours vegetation ; for if not, these comparatively delicate plants could not live and flourish through the long and severe winters of this region. In the summer, the temperature at night was frequently as low as 29° of Fahrenheit, and yet I never noticed the following morn- ing any blight or injury sustained by these plants, even in the slightest degree. I have occasionally, during the summer, been up the greater part of the night at my observatory, with the internal as well as the external thermometers as low as freezing point, without being particularly warmly clad, and yet not feeling the least cold; and in the winter, the thermometer, on similar occasions, has been at 24° and 26°, without my suffering the slightest inconvenience. This I attributed at the time to the peculiar stillness of the air, although, within a short distance in the offing and overhead, the wind was high. Whilst upon this subject, there are two facts which may be * The stems of both from six to seven inches in diameter. 578 HUMMING BIRDS—GEOLOGY. mentioned as illustrative of the mildness of the climate, notwith- standing the lowness of the temperature. One is the comparative warmth of the sea near its surface, between which and the air, I have in the month of June, the middle of the winter season, | observed a difference of 30°, upon which occasion the sea was covered with a cloud of steam. The other is, that parrots and humming-birds, generally the inhabitants of warm regions, are very numerous in the southern and western parts of the Strait— the former feeding upon the seeds of the Winter’s bark, and the latter having been seen by us chirping and sipping the sweets of the Fuchsia and other flowers, after two or three days of con- stant rain, snow, and sleet, during which the thermometer had been at freezing point. We saw them also in the month of May upon the wing, during a snow shower: and they are found in all parts of the south-west and west coasts as far as Valparaiso. I have since been informed that this species is also an inhabitant of Peru ; so that it has a range of more than 41° of latitude, the southern limit being 533° south.* Tierra del Fuego is divided by several channels; a principal one of which is opposite to Cape Froward, and another fronts Port Gallant. The easternmost, called Magdalen, trends in a due south direction for nineteen miles, and separates the clay slate from the more crystalline rocks, which seem to predominate in Clarence Island, and are chiefly of greenstone ; though, at the eastern end, there is much mica slate. At the bottom of Mag- dalen Sound the channel turns sharply to the westward ; and, after a course of about forty miles, meets the Barbara Channel, which, as above-mentioned, communicates with the Strait opposite to Port Gallant, and both fall into the sea together. Magdalen Sound and its continuation, Cockburn Channel, are almost free from islands and rocks; but the Barbara Channel, which separates * This bird, although not rare in several English collections had never been noticed until I forwarded it to England in the early part of the year 1827, when my friend Mr. Vigors described it in the Zoological Journal for the month of November 1827 (vol. iii. p. 432), under the name of Mellisugu Kingii. Shortly afterwards, M. Lesson published it in his Manuel d’Ornithologie (vol. ii. p. 80), as Ornismya sephaniodes, as a discovery belonging to the Coquille’s voyage, in the illustrations of which it is figured at plate 31. GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. 579 the granite from the greenstone and mica slate districts, is through- out thickly strewed with islands, which reduce the channel in some parts to a mile, and, in one place, to not more than fifty yards in width. Here, of course, the tide sets with great strength. Several vessels, however, have passed through it under sail; and one ship, a whaler belonging to Messrs. Enderby, working through the Strait, and finding much difficulty in passing to the westward, bore up, and, the wind being fair and the distance to sea only fifty miles, ran through it without accident. The land to the westward of the Barbara Channel is high and rugged ; and although in the vallies, ravines, and sheltered nooks, there is no want of vegeta- tion, yet, in comparison with the eastern part of the Strait, it has a very dismal and uninviting appearance. It was called by Sar- miento, ‘ Santa Ines Island’ ;* but Narborough called it, ‘ South Desolation ; it being,’ as he says, ‘ so desolate land to behold.’+ Clarence Island, which is fifty-two miles long and twenty-three broad, although equally rocky, is much more verdant in appear- | ance. The uniform direction of the headlands of the north shore of the island is remarkable. Upon taking a set of angles with the theodolite placed upon the extremity of the west end of Bell Bay, opposite to Cape Holland, the most prominent points to the south- east, as far as could be seen, were all visible in the field of the telescope at the same bearing. The same thing occurred on the opposite shore of the Strait, where the projections of Cape Gallant, Cape Holland, and Cape Froward, are in the same line of bearing ; so that a parallel ruler placed on the map upon the projecting points of the south shore, extended across, will also touch the headlands of the opposite coast. The eastern island, which had been previously called, and of course retains on our chart the name of King Charles South Land, extends from the entrance of the Strait to the outlet of the Barbara and Cockburn Channels, at Cape Schomberg. The northern part partakes of the geological character of the eastern portion of the Strait. ‘The centre is a continuation of the slate formation, which is evident at a glance, from the uniformity of the direction of the shores of Admiralty Sound, the Gabriel Channel, and all the bays and mountain ranges of Dawson Island. The south shore, or seaward coast line, is principally of greenstone, * Sarmiento, p. 180. + Narborough’s Voyage, p. 72 580 GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. excepting the shores of the Beagle Channel, which extends from Christmas Sound to Cape San Pio, a distance of a hundred and twenty miles, with a course so direct that no points of the opposite shores cross and intercept a free view through ; although its aver- age breadth, which also is very parallel, is not much above a mile, and in some places is but a third of a mile across. The south shores of Hoste and Navarin Islands are of horn-blende rock, which is also the principal component of the islands in the neighbourhood, as well as of the island itself of Cape Horn.. The eastern part of King Charles South Land is low, with plains like the Patagonian coast ; but the range of high land interrupted at Port Famine ex- tends down the north side of Admiralty Sound, and perhaps, with some few intervals, continues to the south-east extremity of the land, near Cape Good Success, which is the south cape of the west side of Strait Le Maire, and there terminates in lofty mountains covered with snow, one of which, called in the charts ‘ The Sugar Loaf,’ is probably four thousand feet high. The eastern shore of King Charles South Land, towards the south part, is lofty, but near the northern part is very low. The interior is also low, with extensive plains, abounding with guana- coes, some of which also were found, and shot by the officers of the Beagle, within fifty miles of Cape Horn. The eastern coast of Patagonia, from the entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens to the River Plata, is comparatively low. From Cape Virgins to Port St. Julian, where porphyritic claystone com- mences, the coast is formed of clay cliffs, horizontally stratified, and the country is undulating, with extensive plains, or pampas, covered with grass, but without trees. At Port St. Julian, the country becomes hilly, and continues so as far.to the northward as latitude 44°, the rock being porphyritic. The clay formation to the southward has been likened to the appearance of the coast of Kent, and at a short distance it bears certainly a very great resem- _blance to it; but the cliffs, instead of being of chalk, are composed of a soft marly clay, without any gravel or impressions of organic remains, excepting at Port St. Julian, where fossil shells, both bivalves and univalves, are found imbedded in clay cliffs ; and on the surface are lying, strewed about, large oyster-shells. In the clay formation there are two rivers: the Gallegos, in lat. 51° 38’; and Port Santa Cruz, in lat. 50° 7’. The Gallegos, at RIVERS—-INDIANS—GRAVES, 581 high water, may be easily entered, but at low water the banks are dry to a great extent ; a channel, however, is left on its south side, of sufficient depth for a small vessel: the tide rises forty-six feet, and the stream is very strong. Port Desire, in 47° 45’ south latitude, has a narrow entrance with strong tides ; but affords in the offing very good anchorage as well as shelter from the prevailing winds, which are off shore, or westerly. The inlet extends up the country, nearly in a west direction, for eighteen miles; but the land is dry and parched, and very unsuitable for the establishment which the Spanish government formed there not many years since, and of which evident traces remain to this day. St. George’s Gulf, called in the old charts ‘ Bahia sin Fondo,’ or Deep-Sea Gulf, was formerly considered to be a deep sinuosity of the coast, into which a river emptied its waters after winding through a large tract of country ; for, until the Descubierta and Atrevida’s voyage of discovery, very vague accounts had been given of this, or indeed of any other part of the coast. The Gulf, upon that examination, was found to possess no river or creek in any part excepting on the north side, where there are several deep bays and coves, which are, and have been frequented by our seal- ing vessels. The country about is dry and parched, although partially covered with small shrubs, and a wiry grass on which large herds of guanacoes feed. According to Falkner (the Jesuit missionary, who resided many years among the Indian tribes inhabiting the country about Buenos Ayres), the eastern coast between the latitudes of 41° and 51° is frequented by the natives for the purpose only of burying the dead: they have, however, been occasionally met with travelling along the coast, apparently without any particular object in view. Near Port Desire I have seen the graves of the Indians on the summit of the hills, but the bodies had been removed, probably by the Indians themselves ; for we are informed by Falkner, that, after the dead have been interred twelve months, the graves are visited by the tribe, for the purpose of collecting the bones and conveying them to their family sepulchres, where they are set up and adorned with all the beads and ornaments the friends and family of the deceased can collect for the occasion. The ceremony §82 METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. is performed by certain women of the tribe whose peculiar office it is to attend to these rites. In the year 1828, from the commencement of January to the middle of August, the Adventure (the ship I commanded) was at anchor at Port Famine, in the Strait of Magalhaens, in latitude 93° 38}’ south, and longitude 70° 54’ west of Greenwich ; and during the whole of that time a careful meteorological journal was kept. The temperature was registered from a very good ther- mometer of Fahrenheit’s scale, suspended within a copper cylin- drical case of nine inches diameter, and perforated above and below with holes, to admit a free current of air. The cylinder was fixed to the roof of a shed, thatched with dried leaves to shelter it from the sun, while the sides were open. The barometer (a moun- tain barometer made by Newman, with an iron cylinder) was hung up in the observatory, five feet above the high-water mark, and both instruments were examined carefully and regularly at the following hours, namely : six and nine o’clock in the morning, at noon, and at three and six o'clock in the evening. The state of the atmosphere was observed daily, by Daniel’s hygrometer, at three o’clock in the afternoon, The maximum and minimum tem- peratures were also observed twice in twenty-four hours, from a Six’s thermometer, namely: at nine o’clock in the morning, and at nine in the evening. From this journal the following abstract has been drawn up :— 583 SUMMARY OF METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Tasie I. Mean height of the BAromerer, corrected for Neut!. Pt, and Capill’. and reduced to the temperature of 32°. AUTUMNAL PERIOD. BRUMAL PERIOD. 12 Days MEANS. of A t. Hour, Feb. March. | April. May. June. July. meee Autumn.| Brumal. j|Au.&Br, cw | cere | a a | | me | ne i | | a | inches. | inches. | inches. inches. inches. inches, | inches. | inches. inches. inches. VI. |29:404] 29-631 | 29-569] +.29:322| 4+29-279| 29-581] 29-230] 29-531] 4.29394] 29-463 IX. | +-415] +-655| + -58] ‘311 ‘277| +:584| +257) 4-550; 391] +.-470 xin. | -405|—-641| 5741 -292| ~—-272| -576) -308| -540/ —-380|_—-460 III. |—-399| -647|—-555|) —-285| —-271)—-542) +318] —-534) —-366| —-450 VI. | -404/ -657| -579| =--308} «= -294| +571) 318] +540; ~=—-391| +465 ees | cocenenerenees | ee | | ES | ES GS | (ere | gee eee | ee | eee Means| 29.405] 29°646} 29°572| 29°304| 29-279) 29-571) 29-286] 29°539)| 29-384! 29-462 Tasxe LI. THERMOMETER—Fahrenheit. AUTUMNAL PERIOD. BRUMAL PERIOD. 12 Days MEANS. of August. . | Feb. March. | April. May. June. | July. Autum. | Brumal. |Au. &Br. —————_ |. | | | ° O° ° ° ° ° ° ° te) ie} 44°30) 44:20) 35:82) 34-74} 30-67) 30-53) 33-46} 41°44) 31-98) 36°71 51:38) 49°87} 40°61) 36°36] 31-83) 31-50} 35-11). 47:29] 33-23] 40-26 54:23] 52°53) 45°42) 40-68) 36:02} 35:93) 37:92) 50°73) 37:54) 44:13 54°44) 52°39) 44°88) 39°62} 34:36) 34:59} 36°24) 50°57} 36°19) 43°38 51:16) 47°84) 39°83] 35°97} 31:98) 32°58) 33°54} 46°13; 33-51) 39-82 i | | ces | ef ce | ee | ee fe | en | es | 584 TasuE III. Danieu’s HyGRomeTeR, observed at 3 p.m., daily, and compared with the mean temperature. AUTUMNAL PERIOD. | BRUMAL PERIOD. | 19 pays MEANS. ds AINSI gs CTT 2 ly MERU 2 «DR MENMNMyr a CDI 7 Pein EPs CANE) VOM Feb. | March. | April. | May. | June. | July. moe Autum. | Brumal. |Au. & Br. | fe) se) ° te) ce) °o o |e re) Monthly mean tem.1| 51-10) 49-37] 41-22) 35:47| 32-97) 33-03 33 25 47 23 34: 49] 40-86] rom Table II. | | Temperature of 1.) 41°31) 40°75} 34:83] 34°88) 30°28) 29-41] 30°28) 38°96] 31: 52 35° 24 dew point ro 9-791 8-62] 639] 0-59| 2-691 3621 2-97] 327| 2301 5-98) and dew point a Po Saturation bef 711-8] 736-421 809-9 a 9038] 876-3) 894-6) 752-71} 920-23] 836-47 | ing . plasticity of vapour | 295+7] 289-0| 23864] 239-04! 202-24] 196-46] 209-2| 974-44] 219-58] 243-51 cee of vapour in | 3-3441| 3-2801| 2°7550 27034 2-3731|2-3048| 2-3421| 3-1264| 2-4902| 2-8083 QTAINS oeseeesees Tasie LV. Temperature. Dew Point, Hygrometer. Pressure, | Months. | Air. | Water. I ae a a eas Max. | Min. | Range. | Max. | Min, Rangel Max. Min, lenge las Max. | Min. |Range AAA APRA om eee FS MINT Nf ——- | —_—_——— inches. | inches. | inches. fo) ° ° ° February, 30:087| 28-768) 1:319| 66 |28 | 38-0) 52-5 ° ° ° fe) ° 43°7| 8°38) 51-2)31 | 202 March | 30:099 ia 1-095} 68 | 30°5| 37:5] 50-5] 41°5) 90147 | 35 | 12 April 30°055) 28°844) 1-211] 57-5128 | 29-5] 47: "| 40°5| 7:3)42 127 | 15 | May 29-850) 28°795| 1-055 | 49-5) 20°5) 29-0) 48-2 ed 5°4|43 121 | 22 June 30-079) 28-274, 1-805 | 48°7| 19-2) 29-5] 47-0, 40:3} 6°7 | 41:5) 20 | 21-5 July 30-500) 28-942 1-558 | 44-2) 126) 31-6) 45-0, August ) | ; 12 days f 29-782) 28° 03 1-073 | 49 2 18-5] 30-7] 43°1 41-8) 3°2|39°7/ 19 | 20-7 40:2) 2°9| 37-2 bs oe, METEOROLOGY. 585 From the preceding tables it will be seen that the mean tem- perature for the autumnal period (the months of February, March, and April) was 47°-2; the maximum and minimum were respec- tively 68° and 28°. For the brumal period, the three following months, the mean temperature was 34°5, and the maximum and minimum 49° 5 and 12°°6. During the former, or autumual period, the barometer ranged between 30-099 and 28°768 inches, and for the latter it was between 30°5 and 28-274 inches. The range for the first being 1-331 inches, and for the last 2-226 inches. Date. 20 586 EXTRACT FROM THE BEAGLE’S ‘ GAME’ BOOK, 1830. Giver. Mr. May George West’) 622i oce.c. Ma Vittrvay codes cscses'cce Capt. Fitz-Roy.......seee Do. J. Bennett @eeceeeuee 2@2aneece J, Bennett et. c.ntin.ceies Capt. Fitz-Roy............ Lieut@i€emmpe® .....0/ 5 Mr. Bratley .c.deesstteees JAS HOLST.) eguaeccreesle Do. Do. Lieut. Kempe Lieut. Kempe,Mr.Stokes, and J. Forsyth Given for Fresh Provisions. 4 Ducks, 2 Redbills. 3 Gulls, 1 Goose. 90 lbs. of Guanaco meat. 36 Fish (from Natives). 10 Shags, 4 Redbills. 2 Shags, 1 Goose, 3 Pen- guins. 7 Shags, 14 Fish. 1 Albatross, 1 Bittern. 5 Shags, 2 Geese. 1 Hawk, 1 Owl. 17 Redbills, 5 Sea-pigeons. 15 Redbills, 1 Hawk. 6 Shags. 16 Shags, 4 Ducks, 6 Red- bills, 4 Sea-pigeons. Al Shags, 3 Steamer- ducks, 11 Redbills, 5 Sea-pigeons, 3 Hawks, 2 Owls. Note.—Otters, foxes, and seal, were tried more than once, but discarded. Very young seal, however, were liked, as well as young penguins. 587 EXTRACT FROM THE BEAGLE’S ‘ GAME’ BOOK, 1830. Date. Given as Fresh Provisions. May 17 | 4 Ducks, | Goose......... [== | 3.Gulls, 2.Redbills ...... 18 | 90 lbs. of Guanaco meat Be SO. TSI. sitzocrersciesacacseees'e 20 | 6 Shags, 2 Redbills ...... 21 | 4 Shags, 2 Redbills ...... A oe MALS iRaciedcsaedesesceseess 29 | 1 Goose, 3 Penguins ... June 7 | 7 Shags, 14 Fish......... 1 Albatross, 1 Bittern. "7 C Shags, 17 Redbills, 1 \ Owl, 5 Pigeons, 2 To whom. The Sick. The Fuegians. All Hands. Sick & Fuegians. Sick. Fuegians. Sick. Fuegians. Sick. Fuegians. All Hands.* »” Hawks, 2 Geese ...... WO GIRO SNAGS Awe ssals setetsce' Sick and Fuegians. 20 | 16 Shags, 4 Ducks, 6 IVECUOIUS Jccsccscesssces All Hands.+ 21 | 20 Shags, 9 Pigeons, 2 Oise ctcecanelass es All Hands. 23 | 11 Shags, 6 Redbills, 3 TAWA SY gos sche edsioe one All Hands. f 24 | 5 Shags, 5 Redbills...... ee eet 25 | 5 Shags, 3 Steamers ... |J oer * Except gun-room, second and third messes. + Except cabin, fourth and fifth messes. t Except cabin, sixth and seventh messes. 4 - t 7, ‘ i . 7) ‘ 4 « Boe ba i 4 mt i Ba r -*, sage gene ee EX eee a eee ee oes * “a 6 phtal vera hanetic + ey! a ee ad Hirao ARTS Pi | ‘be + +4 oo 3 - hoa Se Ae PT a dt eeeV 2h ak 144 cabin er dee r elena) hia Adelaide (Tender) granted, 107—pro- ceedings, 108, 110, 111—goes to look for San Sebastian Channel, 122-124— return to Port Famine, 140 — sent to Cayetano Island, loses boat,142-143 — in Bougainville Harbour, 145 — further proceedings, 149, 151, 182, 183—suffers from gale in River Plata, 191 — detention, 192-196 — goes to Magdalen Channel, 197, 212, 213, 217, 241, 248—proceedings, 251-257 —at Childe, 258—proceedings, 258- 268—repaired, 300—sails to Gulf of Penas, 301—arrives at Port Famine, 321—sails with Adventure to Monte Video and Rio de Janeiro, 322— particulars of her last cruise, 323-358 —left as tender to flag-ship, 462. Adventure, leaves River Plata, 1—at Sta. Elena, 2-6 — anchors near Cape Fairweather, 7— enters Strait of Ma- galhaens, 12 — passes First Narrow, 15 — in. Gregory Bay, 16 — passes Second Narrow, 20—in Freshwater Bay, 22—at Port Famine, 25-84— _in Laredo Bay, 85—in Gregory Bay, 85-104—at Rio de Janeiro, 105—goes to Santos, Sta. Catharina, Monte Video, thence to southward, 106, 107 —re-enters Strait, in Possession Bay, 109—in Gregory Bay, 111—in Port Famine, 117—scurvy on board, 144 —leaves Port Famine, 182—enters River Plata, Brazilian squadron, 186, 187—at Rio de Janeiro, 188—in pampero, 189, 190—at Port Desire, 192—in Sea-Bear Bay, 193—goes to VOL. I. @ Staten Land, 197—St. Martin Cove, 198—at Valparaiso Bay, 207—at Chi- lée. 210—at Valparaiso, goes to Juan Fernandez, 302—at Concepcion, 308 —enters Strait of Magalhaens, 311— in Playa Parda, 312— Fortescue Bay, 313—reaches Port Famine, 315— departs finally, 321—at Rio de Janet- ro, 322—arrival in England, 462. Admiralty Sound, glaciers, weather, Indians, passages, description of shores, 56-59. Agnes Islands, rocks, dangers, 380. Agiieros, boundaries of Chilée, 271— description of Piraguas, 285—quoted on climate, 294, 295—account of mis- sionary voyages, 327-329. Ainsworth, Mr., goes to survey Port San Antonio, drowned, burial-place, 63-64. Aldunate, takes Childe, Yntendente of the province, 299—anecdote, 300, —goes in Adventure to Valparaiso, 302, Alerse, good qualities of wood, difficult to obtain, 282-283, Anas specularis, 117. Ancon Sin Salida (of Sarmiento), 262— Adelaide there, weather, traced, 347- Andres San, canal (of Sarmiento), dis- appointment, 339. Anser Nigricollis, 352. Anson,—Juan Fernandez, 307. Antonio San, Port, Cordova’s account, vegetation, 126 — humming-birds, ze 590 weather, 127, 128 — detention there, 133-135: Apterodytes Magellanica, 5. Araucanian Indians, dress, 309—meet- Ing, 310, 311. Araucaria imbricata, 311. Argonauta tuberculosa, found in maw of dolphin, containing Octopus Ocythie, 106, 107, Ariel Rocks, supposed, search for, meet- ing of currents gave rise to false report of their existence, 460, 461. Asses’ ears, 12. Aymond Mount, 12. Barbara Channel, islands, rocks, tides, 256. Barbara Santa, Port, 164 — oak-beam, supposed Wager’s, found, 165—moun- tains, island, productions, wigwams, weather, 166, 167. Barnevelt Islands, 436. Barometer, 41—observations for height of Mount Tarn, 42, 43—for weather, 144, 149—before pampero, 189, 191 —observations, 202, 203, 210 —for height of Mountain de la Cruz, 244 —attention to, 371 — changes, 426, 427, 429, 465, 466, 467. Beagle, leaves Monte Video, 1—at Sta. Elena, 7 — approaches Strait of Ma- galhaens, 13 — passes First Narrow, 15—at Gregory Bay, 16 — at Port Famine, 25—prepared to go to West part of Straits, and sails, 26, 28 — anxiety for, arrival, 65— proceedings, currents, squalls, doubles Cape Fro- ward, leaves Port Gallant, Cape Tamar, danger, difficulties, dangerous service, 68-80 — sails from Port Fa- mine for Monte Video, 85 — goes thence to Rio de Janciro, 105 — ordered to Port Desire, 108 — pro- tracted absence, arrival at Port Famine, 119 — sails again, 129 — return, 151 — proceedings during absence, dangers off Parallel Peak, sufferings of crew, at Port Santa Bar- bara, Port Henry, Port Otway, peri- lous situation in Channel’s mouth, sufferings of crew, at Port Otway for recovery, 154-181 — injured during pampero in River Plata, 190 — sails ~ INDEX. thence, 191—at Port Desire, 1962 — in Sea-Bear Bay, 195 — proceedings from, 212—to, arrival at Childe, 250 —sails for Tierra del Fuego, 300—at Rio de Janeiro, 322 — proceedings during absence, weather, anchorage, gales, boat stolen, critical accident, in Good Success Bay, at Monte Video, returns to England, 360-462. Bell Cape, tide-race, rocks, 448, 456. Bellaco Rock, unsuccessful search for, 109—found and examined, 120. Black River, branch of San Tadeo River, 328 — rapid currents, obstructions, shores, glaciers, 329. Blanco Cape, shoals off, 108, ~ Boat upset, lives lost, 63, 64 — boat stolen, 142, 143 — yawl lost, 180 — another boat lost, 193—boats in dan- ger, 231 — whale-boat stolen near Cape Desolation, 391 — basket-like substitute described, 392—boat build- ing, 407—finished, 423. Borja Bay, weather, williwaws, 247, 312. Bougainville, 10, 35, 39, 69—memorial, 70, '71—on Patagonians, 99, 101. Bougainville Harbour, 122, 145, 146. Breaker Bay, 373, 374. Buckland Mount, 51. Bueno Port, its excellence, productions, 349, 341. Burney Mount, 260. Bynoe, Mr., excursion, 214—volunteer in Adelaide, 217, 241—meets Indians, 255 — volunteers again in Adelaide, 301, 359+ Byron, Commodore, notice of Sedger River, 38— of Patagonians, 99 — of cave near Port Otway, 323 — endea- vour to trace steps of his party after loss of Wager, account of circumstan- ces connected with it, 324-329 — his description of Montrose Island, 325. Bowen, Mr., ascends Mountain de la Cruz, 69. Campana Island, bad weather, danger of Beagle, 161, 163. Candish, arrival in the Strait, 33—con- duct to settlers, gives the name of Port Famine, 34. Canquenia, or Cagge, 288, 289. (Note. ) INDEX. 591 Carlos San, de Childe, 249—anchorage, position, 274 — buildings, woods, 275 —piraguas, 284-286, Cascade Bay, 219. Cavia, by some called hare, 5. Centurion, 303, 304, 307. Chama, 306. Channel’s mouth, anchorage, weather, surf, 178 — desolate scene, perils, squalls, 179—inlets near, gales, tides, 330. Chanticleer at Monte Video, 187 — at St. Martin Cove, 198 — sails thence, 205. Charadrius rubecola, 41, Charles Islands, surveyed, 315. Childe, position, extent, population, 271, 272—government, troops, 273—culti- vation, peasantry, 276 — manners, morals, 277—schools, language, pro- duce, 278 — manufactures, exports, imports, 279—varieties of wood, 280, 281—log roads, 283—ploughs, 286— soil, 287—forced contributions, birds, 288—shell-fish, 290—mode of cook- ing, 291 — anecdote, 293 — climate, 294-296 — struggles against Chile, 298. Cholgua (Mytilus Magellanicus, marek), 290, Choro (Mytilus choras, Molina), 290. _ Cockburn Channel, 254. Coleoptera, a few species at Sta Elena, 6. Concholepas Peruviana, used as drinking cups, 167, Condor, size, accounts of Molina and Humboldt, 185. Crepidula, one species at St@ Elena, 6. Cruz, de la, mountain, ascended, 69 — memorials found, 70, 71 — ascended again, 243, 244—its height, 314. Cygnus Anatodoides, 359. ua- Dasyprocta (agouti), 5. Dasypus Minutus, of D’ Azara, 5. Deer, on Point Sta. Anna, 48 — track near Obstruction Sound, 353 — many more observed, 354 — supposed of a novel species, 355. Desire, Port, examined, 120, 192, 195, 349—quince found there, tides, 460, Diego Ramirez Islets, 4384 — climate, 435- Diego San, Cape, strong tide, 453 — coast near, 459. Dislocation Harbour, 364. Dogs, 46, 52, 62, 76, 89, 137—fine one (Fuegian), 148, 216 — small-sized, 238 — at Juan Fernandez, 304 — fine Fuegian dog, 444 — one like young lion, 448, Doris Cove, weather, 406. Dungeness Point, 12. Eagle Bay, 35, 37, 48. Easter Bay, 348, 349. Elena, Sta. Port, arrival there, coast, 2—bad weather, fossil oyster-shells, 4 — animals and birds, 5 — scarcity of fish, trees, traces of natives, depar- ture, 6 Englefield Island, 225. Estevan San, channel of, tides, 265. Evangelists, or Isles of Direction, 156. Eyre, Sir George, Sound, glaciers, whales, seal, icebergs, 337. Fairweather, Cape, gale near, singular error, 7—abundance of fish, 8, 9—de- parture from, 9, 120. Falkner, the Jesuit, description of Pata- gonians, 86, 87— funeral ceremonies, 113—graves, 1¢6. Famine, Port, 25 — former Spanish colony, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33—-named by Candish, 34 — shells, 37 — animals, birds, 38—fishing, 39 — preparations and departure, 84—re-visited, 117— events there during absence, 118 — weather, 119— winter, 142 — floods, lightning, 144 — scurvy, 145— effects of weather, 149, 150 — Beagle there, 216—Adventure there, 315 — finally quitted, 321. Felipe, San, Spanish settlement under Sarmiento, Viedma, 31, 32 — aban- doned, now Port Famine, 34. Felis pajaros, 117. Fire, at Port Sta Elena, 3 — at Port Famine, 83—boat and sheds destroyed by Fuegians, 118, at Port Desire, 193, 194—in Gregory Bay, 213 — traces of near Level Bay, 336. 2 One 592 Fitz- Roy, Robert, Commander, appoint- ed to Beagle, 188 — proceedings at Port Desire, 195 — explores Jerome Channel, 221-—scenery, 222——Indian Channel, 224—narrow escape, 232— at Port Gallant, 240—search for pas- sage into Skyring Water, 248 — at Childe, 250—leaves San Carlos, 360 —goes to relieve party in distress, 369 —excursion to Cape Gloucester, 376, 377—search for lost boat, 393-404— remarks on Tierra del Fuego, 410 — excursion in boat, bad weather, gales, 418 — proceedings and return on board, 419, 423—-further proceedings to return to England, 423, 462. Fortescue Bay, 132, 313, 315- Foster, Henry, Captain, meeting with, 187— arrangements, 188—in St. Mar- tin Cove, 198 — sails thence, 205— some account of his death, 206, Fox, at St@ Elena, 5—curious chase of one, 193. Freshwater Bay, 22—vegetation, 25. Freyre, attacks and takes Childe, 298, 299. Froward, Cape, 69—described, 145. Fuegians, first seen, wigwams, numbers, 23—dress, food, character, 24 — near Cape Rowlett, manners, curious anec- dote, 53,54 — weapons, skill, 55-— barter in Magdalen Channel, 61 — conduct, 62 — in Harbour of Merey, 74 — description of persons, orna- ments, food, habitations, domestic ties, affection, 75, 76,'77 — at Port San Antonio, 128—behaviour, appear- ance, cunning, 129 — in Warrington Cove, 135 — ‘visits, canoes, 137 — carving, 138—natives at Port Famine, mischievous, 141 — near Point Santa Anna, 147—troublesome, 148 — met again, 21@— near Otway Water, 226 —paint, cunning, 227—anecdote, 234 — abuse, 238 — in Fortescue Bay, plank canoes, ‘ Pecheray,’ anecdote, 313—curious circumstances, 315—at Port Famine, misconduct, 316—pre- cautions, quarrel, 317, 318 — driven away, caution, 319, 320 —- met by Adelaide’s boat’s crew, curious notices, habits, theft, 342, 344—few in number, 345--at Landfall Island, 367 — con- duct to party in distress, arms, bird- catching, 370 — near Otway Bay, INDEX. living among tame seals, 372—traces on Noir Island, 388 — steal whale- boat, 391 — met with, 394 — further meetings, boat’s gear found, 395 — various incidents connected with na- tives, 396, 397—thieves’ family seized, 398—another party met, 399—guides escape, 401—other meetings, 402, 403 —three children left on board Beagle, 404—two of them restored, natives in March Harbour, young man detained, 409—disturbance in March Harbour, 412—skirmish, 413 — their strength and daring, ‘ York-minster,’ 415 — “Boat memory,’ ‘ Fuegia Basket,’ 416 — conduct of Fuegians on board to other natives, 427, 428 — ‘ Yapoos’ mode of fishing, 428 — natives near Nassau Bay, skins, wigwams, 429 — without arms, tractable, 430—in Mur- ray Narrow, large wigwam, food, 440 —‘Jemmy Button,’ 445 — in Valen- tyn Bay, dogs, 448. Fury Harbour, wreck of Saxe Coburg, 66—described, 380 — examined, 384 —rocks, 386. Gabriel Channel, 49 — weather, 50 — squalls called ‘ williwaws,’ 59. Gadus, 9. Gales, usual direction, 162, 163—obser- vations, 235 — usual course of, 391. Gallant, Port, 131, 132 — humming. birds, natives, 134, 135, 220, 241. Gallegos River, 9—tides, 120. Geology of country near Port Sta. Elena, 3 — Cape Fairweather, 7, 8— Mount Sarmiento, 27—Mount Tarn, 44—Port Waterfall, 52 — Admiralty Sound, 59 — Gabriel Channel, 60 — near Second Narrow, 112 — Cape Froward and Port Gallant, 131 — Mount Maxwell, 136—Tower Rock, 192—— Cape Horn, St. Martin Cove, 204—Juan Fernandez, 305—Grafton Islands, 375 — Cape Castlereagh, Doris Cove, 410. — Gilbert Islands, Doris Cove, 406. Glaciers, 51, 57, 140, 237, 252, 337 ,339, 442. Gloucester, Cape, 373, 374—excursion to, weather, 376 — natives, produce, 377+ Graves, Mr., goes in Hope, 28 — pro- INDE X. ceedings, 45, 46, 47—surveys Lomas Bay, 63 — sails again in Hope, 65 — returns, 80— appointed to Adelaide tender, 107 —in Gregory Bay, 110, 111 —in Port Gallant, 134, 136 — detached, 142—loss of boat, 142, 143 —at Bougainville Harbour, 145, 146 — with Patagonians, 149, 151 — at Port Gallant, 241—honourable trait, 242 — journal, 251-257 — near Cape Upright, 258—goes to Childe, 268. Gregory Bay, Beagle joins Adventure there, 16—gales, mirage, Patagonians, 85—scenery, productions, fires, 111— natives, 183. Guanacoes, 3, 4, 5—near Cape Orange, 15—in Gregory Bay, 111 — bezoar- stone, 117 — mode of hunting them, 151—unusual chase, 193—near Sea- Bear Bay, 194 —very large ones seen near Windhond Bay, 434—numerous near Aguirre Bay, 446. Guayaneco Islands, 167, 331. Guyot Duclos, 10, 22—notice of natives, g9—skirmish with natives, 320. Henry, Port, 159——productions, scenery, 160, 161. Hermite Island, remarkable peaks, sur- vey, 207. Hope, Mount, 56, 57, 58. Hope, decked boat, 26—erew, sails on survey, 28—proceedings, meets Fue- gians in Brenton Sound, 45, 46 — passage back to Port Famine, 47 — repaired, 48-—goes to Eagle Bay, into Gabriel Channel, 49 — further pro- ceedings, 50-63 — sails again, 65 — goes with Captain King, 80—further proceedings, 82, Horn, Cape, ascent of highest point, memorial left, 432—weather, 433. Horn Island, 432. Hymenoptera, at Port St Elena, 6, Icebergs, field of ice, 175, 337, 442. Icy Sound, glaciers, avalanches, 140. Ildefonsos, 424. Indian Channel, bivouac, weather, 223. Island Harbour, 333—weather, 334. Jerome Channel, 221—scenery, 222. Jesuit Sound, explored, 329. 593 Juan Fernandez, 302 — establishment, productions, 303 — dogs, goats, fish, buccaneers, 304— botany, trees, fruits, 305, 306 — shells, coral, anchorage, 306 — animals, seals, birds, 307 — excursions, thermometer, 308. Kater Peak, ascended, 200, 201, 202— agaill, 433, 434. Kelp, or sea-weed, its great use, 13 — immense growth, 363. Kelp fish, excellent food, 199. Kelly Harbour, 175. Kempe, Lieut., excursions, 214, 409 — in chase of Fuegians, 412, 413 — promptness, 423, 432—left in charge of Beagle, 437—vigilance, 445, 449. Kempe Harbour, 218. Kirke, Mr., goes in Adelaide, 217; 241, 242—ascends Mount Skyring, 253— near Cape Tamar, 258—sails again in Adelaide, 301—examines the Chan- nel’s Mouth, 330 — zealous exertion, 333 — examines Sir George Eyre Sound, 337— further proceedings, 338, 339—traces Canal of the Mountains, 347, 348— Worsley Sound, 349—dis- appointments, 350, 359 — further ex- aminations, 354-357- Latitude Bay, 368—advantages, 370. Laura Basin, 375. Leeward Bay, 347- Lennox Harbour, 437—natives, 449. Lepidoptera, afew species at Port Sta ‘Elena, 6. ; Liévre pampa, of D’ Azara, 5. Lizards, 6. Lobos, Port, 2. Lomas Bay, 63. Loyasa’s voyage quoted, 96. Lucia Santa, Cape, coast near, 157. Lyndsey, Serjeant, death of, 176 —~ burial, 177. Magalhaens, Strait of, voyage to explore, under Don Antonio de Cordova, g— account of bad weather, confirmed by Wallis and Carteret, 10—diiference in spelling name, 1i, vegetation of Strait, 22 — animals, 23 ~— scenery, 51 — 594 whales, &c., 131—climate, 141—re- passed, 186 — entered again, 311 — finally quitted, 322. Magdalen Channel, 60 — anchorage, scenery, 61 — examined, 251—direc- tions, 252. Magnetic influence, unusual, 199, 200, 204, 382, 383, 384, 385. Maire Le, Strait, tides in, 455, 456. Malaspina, at Port St@ Elena in 1798, 2. March Harbour, 408, 424. Maria, a Patagonian, first interview with, 18—at Gregory Bay, 85, 86— visits ships, 88— obtains guanaco meat for them, interview with on shore, 89 —acts as priestess, go—cupidity, 92 —‘toldo,’ 93—disappointment, 104— cordial meeting with, presents, 114— importunity, anecdote, 115—scene in toldo, 116—-re-visited, 183. Marian Cove, 71. Martin St. Cove, 198 —weather, ascent of Kater Peak, 200, 201, 202 — gales and williwaws, 203. Maxwell, Port, 199. Mesier Channel, entrance to, 331 — entered by Adelaide, 333 — anchor- ages, shores, trees, 334 — scarcity of inhabitants, 345. Millar, Alexander Mr., death of, 32). Misery Mount, 234. Mitchell, Lieut., activity, 301,317, 319. Montes Tres, Cape, 167, 168, 169, 322. Morton Island, 420 — tide between it and Gold-dust Isle, 421. Mountains, canal of the, 347. Morrion FE], 238. Murena, near Cape Fairweather, 9. Murray, Mr., accident, 364 — goes to E. end of Landfall Islands, 368 — in distress, 369 — goes to Euston Bay, 375-378 — goes to Cape Desolation, bad weather, 390—severe gales, return anxiously looked for, sends coxswain back in basket-like canoe, 391 — loss of whale-boat, 393 — search for her, 401, 402, 403—goes away again, 407 — penetrates into channels leading from Christmas Sound, 417—goes to head of Nassau Bay, 427— discovers Beagle Channel, 42g—natives, 430— goes towards Cape Good Success, INDEX. 487 — extract from journal, natives near Cape Graham, difficulties, 446, 447, 448. Muscle Bay, 332. Murex at Port Sta Elena, 6 — (Magel- lanicus) brought up by lead, 1g3—found in Eagle Bay, 37. Mytilus, at Port St Elena, 6—at Port Gallant, 133. Mytilus choras, at. Childe, 290. Mytilus Magellanicus, at Childe, 290. Narborough, Sir John, quoted, 4, 5, 25, 76— notice of Patagonians, 99, 123, 192. Narrow, English, described, 335, 336. Narrow, First, passage attempted, 14— cleared, tides, 15—-passed again, 110, 111—tide-race before entering, 322. Narrow, Guia, tides, 265 — passed by Adelaide, 340. Narrow, Kirke, 347 — prospect aiter leaving it, 348 — tides, errors, wider channel, 349—plan of Narrow, singu- lar eddies, 356, 357. Narrow, Murray, tides, shores, natives, woods, 439, 440 — channels near, mountains, anecdote, wigwam, 441— tides, glaciers, 442 — disadvantages, 443. Narrow, Second, passed, 20, 85. Narrow, Shag, 139. Narrow of San Benito, 264. Narrow, White, intricate, 347 — agree- able prospect, 348. Nassau Bay, 425 — master passes through it, 429—formerly Bay of St. Francis, errors in charts, 433—further examined, 438. Nautical remarks, gales on the eastern coast of Patagonia, entrance of Strait of Magalhaens, 463 — Staten Island, New Year Islands, 464 -— passage round Cape Horn, barometer, 465— barometer off Cape Horn, 466, 467— directions for passage through Strait, 468—anchorages, 469, 470 — advan- tage of passing Strait from Pacific to Atlantic, 471, 472—further directions, 473, 474, 475+ Neesham Bay, Indians near, 267. Negro Cape, 21, 22, 24, 215. INDEX. New Year Sound, 410, 420. Nodales, voyage of the, 7, 99 — Bellaco Rock, 109—San Sebastian Channel, 122, 123 — discovered Sea-Bear Bay, 193. Noir Island, roadstead, penguins, 387— Tower Rocks, 388. North Cove, 382. Obstruction Sound, tides, 352 — re- marks, 352. Oidemia Patachonica, 35. Oliver Islands, 351. Ophidium, near Cape Fairweather, 8. Orange Bay, 426, 427—anchorage, pro- ductions, 430. Orthoceratite, fossil resembling an, Rocky | Bay, 321. Osorio Pedro, at Childe, Byron, ‘ Dese- cho,’ 327. Ostrea Edulis, at Childe, 291. Ostrea, fossil at Port Sta. Elena, 4. Otway, Port, 169—weather, woods, 170 —trees, soil, birds, 323. Otway Water, 224. Pampero, 189, 190. Parallel Peak, 163, 164. Patagonians, near Gregory Bay, 16 — size, friendliness, dress, weapons, three go in Adventure to Cape Negro, native names, 20 — appearance des- cribed, 21 — met again in Gregory Bay, animals with them, 85—account of various tribes, 86, 87—go on board ships, intoxication, 88 — trade, 89— religious ceremony, 90, ‘91 — toldos, 92—utensils, 93—tomb, father’s grief, women, occupations, 94 — parental affection, anecdotes, 95 — their size, 96 — former accounts compared, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102—character, 103 —contempt for Fuegians, 104—-fires, 110—tomb in Gregory Bay re-visited, 112 — natives arrive, traffic, 113 — cordial meeting, 114 — natives on board, 116 — in Pecket Harbour, hunting, 151, 152—seen again, toldos, 183 — Portuguese sailors living with them, native language, 184—observed again in passing Gregory Bay, 321. Patagonian Cavy, 5. 595 Patella deaurata, at Port Sta. Elena, 6. Patella trochi-formis, 13. Paul’s, St., dome of, 169. Pecheray, Fuegian expression, anec- dotes, 313, 314, 315 — mentioned again, 320. Pecket Harbour, 151, 183, 184, 213. Pecten vitreus, in Eagle Bay, 37. Feng 387—mode of feeding young, 388. Phalaecrocorax Imperialis, 359. Phoca Jubata, food of Fuegians, 24. Pico, 292. Pillar, Cape, 79, 311, 361 — mountains near, 375—tide, 455. Pinoleo, Araucanian Cacique, account of meeting near Concepcion, daugh- ters, their dress, ornaments, reception from him, his appearance, 309—fol- lowers, intoxication, 310. Pinto, General, Director of Chile, 209. Piure, remarkable appearance, 292. Plata, River, Brazilian Squadron, con- fusion, mistake, 186 — severe ‘ pam- pero,” effects, 189, 190— gales, 191— eurrents, 461. Playa Parda, 312: Polyborus Nove Zealandie, 143. Possession, Cape, 12—tides, 13, 15 — detention, 109—weather, 110. Psittacus smaragdinus, near Port Fa- mine, 39- Quintin San, Sound, 174, 175— Ade- laide there, 324. Quod, Cape, 247. Roldan Campana de, 27. Rundle Passage, 322. Rupert Island, rocks, weather, 246, Saddle Island, magnetic, needle much affeeted, scenery, whales, kelp-fish, 199. Santiago, journey to, 207, 208—weather, 210. Sarmiento, 26 — sent to look for Sir Francis Drake, enters Strait, 29 —- sails to form establishments, 30 — 596 marks out city, colonists’ sufferings, goes to Rio de Janeiro.31—disappoint- ments, taken to England, 32 — his account of natives near Useless Bay, 125 — Campana de Roldan, 130 — discovery of Gulf of Trinidad, 158, 159—his ‘ Abra’ opposite Playa Parda, 312—quoted, 340.. Sarmiento channel, passed, 341 — dis- coveries, 342—course followed, 346. Mount, first appearance, 26 —height, 27, 28—seen again, 130, 147, 252, Saxe Cobourg, Prince of, wrecked in Fury Harbour, 66—crew’s sufferings, saved by Beagle, 67. Sea- Bear Bay, 6—described by Nodales, 193—animals, birds, 195. Seal, teaching their young to swim, 422. Sebastian San, Channel supposed, no- ticed by Nodales, 122—various voy- agers’ Opinions, 123—vain search, 458. Sedger River, mouth changes, remarks, 37— trees, 38. Shags (corvorants), nests on trees in Courtenay Sound, 404. Sholl, Robert Lieut., interview with natives, 23, 24, 65—death of, 121. Skyring, Lieut., 77,78, 165—takes com- mand of Beagle, 182 — superseded, 188 — takes command of Adelaide, goes to survey Magdalen, Cockburn, and Barbara Channels, reaches Port Gallant, 241 — part company near Cape Upright, 249—meets Indians, 256—near Cape Upright, 258 — searches for ‘ Ancon Sin Salida’ of Sar- miento, 261 — natives, 262 — tides, 263—weather, 264—his journal, 266 —-sails for gulf of Pefias, 301—journal of proceedings, 323—examines River San Tadeo, 327—proceedings, 328— returns to Adelaide, 329— illness, 333 — officers’ proceedings, 346—resumes duty, 347 — disappointments, 350, 351 —excellence of charts, 386. Skyring Mount, ascent, memorial, 253, 254—described, strong local attrac- tion, effect on compasses, 382, 383— view from it, 383. Skyring Water, 228—tides, land, birds, 229. Skunk, or Zorillo, 184, 185. INDEX. Smyth Channel, 259 —fish, 260—survey, 261, Snakes at Port St Elena, 6. Snowy Sound, 237. Speedwell Bay, abundance of wild-fowl, crabs, potatoes, trees, 332. Spencer Cape, 431, 435. Steamer- Duck, or Race- Horse, 35, 36. Stewart Harbour described, its advan- tages, 406, Stokes, Pringle Captain, commands Beagle, 2, 18, 26, 28 — rescues crew of shipwrecked vessel, 65—journal, 67 to 80—-dangerous cruise, 73— skill and daring, 77—rides to Patagonian toldos, 92—ordered to Port Desire, 108—arrival at Port Famine, 119— proceedings during absence, 121— sails again, 124—describes Bougain- ville Harbour, 146—returns to Port Famine, sufferings, illness, 150, 151— death, 153—unfinished journal, 154- 181, Stokes, Mr. goes to explore Jerome Channel, 221, 225—narrow escape, 232, 233—examines Hope Harbour, 382—Fury Harbour, 384, 445. Success Good, Cape, 445, 448—shores, anchorage in bay, swell, 450—gales, 451. Tadeo San, River, 323, 327, 328. Tamar Cape, weather off, 72— Beagle in Bay of, 73—returns three times, 74. Tarn, Mr., 4—excursion to Eagle Bay, 35 — ascends Mount Tarn, 40, 42 — interview with natives, 61 —sum- mit of Table Land, 111— Laredo Bay, 117—1in Adelaide, 143, 149—with Patagonians, 151—signal-fire, guana- coes, 194. Tarn Mount, ascent of, 40—tempera- ture, observations, descent, 42, 43. Teal found at Port Sta Elena, 5. Tower Rock near Port Desire, remark- able, Narborough’s description, 192. Tower Rocks, off Noir Island, 388. Tower, rock like, near Aguirre Bay, 447. Trinidad Sanctisima, Golfo de la, 158. Tres Puntas Cape, 158, 161. INDEX. Trochilus at Juan Fernandez, 307. Ulloa, Don J. Juan, y Don A. de, their account of the anchorage at Juan Fer- nandez, 306. ‘Ultimo Viage al estrecho de Magal- lanes,’ quoted, 10, 27, 57, 101. Upright, Cape, 71—bay, 155—weather, 258. Useless Bay, 124—natives near, 125, Valdivia de, Don Pedro, founds cities, 269—Indians destroy them, settlers migrate, 270. Valentyn Bay, natives, 448. Valparaiso, 207, 210, Vicente San, Bay, 453. - Viedma Andres de, at San Felipe, 32— wrecked, return, distresses, 33, 34. Video Monte, departure from, 1—re- turn to, and sail from, 105—revisited, meeting with Captain Foster at, 187 gales in leaving, 191—return there, 322—finally quitted, 462. Virgins Cape, 12, 105, 109. Wager, loss of, 324 to 327, 331. Warrington cove, 135—geology, 136— productions, 139. Waterfall Bay, weather, tides, 334. Waterfall, Port, 51-52. Weddell’s Leading Hill, 418, 421. END OF 597 Whales, dead, mistaken for rocks, 107, 380. White Kelp Cove, fish, birds, 335. William, Cape, 158. Wickham Lieut., takes command of Hope, 28—meets Indians, 45—re- turns to Port Famine, 47—in Gre- gory Bay, 111—obtains curious birds, 117—at Port Famine, 141—goes to Patagonians, 149—ill,152—goes over- land to Port Desire, 195—at Santiago, 207, 210, Williwaws, 50, 203. Wilson, Mr., goes to Landfall Island, 368, 359, 376—good drawings, 383— natives, 409, 413—sketches of coast, 436. Woodcock Mount, 139-140. Wreck found in Port Sta Elena, 2—in Fury Harbour (of Saxe Cobourg), 66, 67. Xavier San Island, 176—examined fur- ther, 329. Xavier Port, woods, water, birds, 176. Xaultegua, Gulf of, curious islet, frost and snow, 247. York-Minster of Cook, noticed, 407— mark for March Harbour, 408, 411. ‘Yungue’ (Juan Fernandez), height, woods, squalls, 302, 303. Zorillo, 184, 185. VOL. I. LONDON Printed by J. L. Cox and Sons, 75, Great Queen Street, Lincoln’s-Inn Fields. Wait a Nes