Ee MC aie A ROC A aa i eee ' ¥ ye Prt ed at haa A ye ae eee Bs ie Bae 4, A \ y =) VOYAGES ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE. VOLUME III. NARRATIVE OF THE PURVEYING VOYAGES OF HIS MAJESTY’S SHIPS ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE, BETWEEN THE YEARS 1826 AND 1836, DESCRIBING THEIR EXAMINATION OF THE SOUTHERN SHORES OF SOUTH AMERICA, AND THE BEAGLE’S CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE GLOBE. oS IN THREE V ys. \ VOL. iL JUN 29 1927 * , LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1839, ‘ J 4 ‘Te PS he Oe fs F. War Wd CA 7 cg NO oe a v4 S 4 6t.-e-4ogear ¥ pad ff 4 , % i ’ of ‘: f it A i? fA Ahh =a cece wy "f $ SCF EF het yor BEET yt beer ot fie RG 8 / NA Ee VOLUME Iil. JOURNAL AND REMARKS. 1832-1836. CHARLES DARWIN, ESQ. M.A. SEC. GEOL. SOC, 1 & An oo aie it) 4 PRET A CE: I nave stated in the preface to the Zoology of the Voyage of the Beagle, that it was in consequence of a wish expressed by Captain FitzRoy, of having some scientific person on board, accompanied by an offer from him, of giving up part of his own accommo- dations, that I volunteered my services, which received, _ through the kindness of the hydrographer, Captain Beaufort, the sanction of the Lords of the Admiralty. As I feel that the opportunities, which I enjoyed of studying the Natural History of the different countries we visited, have been wholly due to Captain Fitz- Roy, I hope I may here be permitted to express my gratitude to him; and to add that, during the five years we were together, I received from him the most cordial friendship and steady assistance. Both to Captain FitzRoy and to all the Officers of the Beagle, * * I must likewise take this opportunity of returning my sincere thanks to Mr. Bynoe, the surgeon of the Beagle, for his very kind attention to me when [ was ill at Valparaiso. vil PREFACE. I shall ever feel most thankful for the undeviating kindness with which I was treated, durmg our long voyage. The present volume contains in the form of a journal, a sketch of those observations in Geology and Natural History, which I thought would possess some general interest. As it was originally intended to have preceded any more detailed account, and as its publication has been unavoidably delayed, the brief- ness and imperfection of several parts, I hope, will be excused. I have given a list of those errata (partly caused by my absence from town when some of the sheets were in the press) which affect the sense ; and have added an Appendix, containing some additional facts (especially on the theory of the trans- portation of erratic blocks) which I have accidentally met with during the past year. I hope shortly to publish my geological observations; the first Part of which will be on the Volcanic Islands of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and on Coral Formations; and the second Part will treat of South America. Several numbers of the Zoology of the Voyage of the Beagle, due to the disinterested zeal of several of our first naturalists, have already appeared. These works could not have been undertaken, had it not been for the liberality of the Lords Commissioners of Her Majesty’s Treasury, who, through the representation of the Right Honourable the Chancellor of the Ex- chequer, have been pleased to grant a sum of one PREFACE. 1x thousand pounds towards defraying part of the ex- penses of publication. I have repeated in this volume my account of the habits of some of the birds and quadrupeds of South America, as I thought such observations might interest those readers who would not, probably, consult the larger work. But I trust that naturalists will remember, that mere sketches are here given on several subjects, which will hereafter be more fully entered on, or have already been so:—for instance, the notices of the strange fossil quadrupeds of the eastern plains of South America are exceedingly imperfect, whilst an admirable account of them by Mr. Owen now forms the first part of the Zoology of the Voyage of the Beagle. I shall have the pleasure of acknowledging the great assistance I have received from several natu- ralists, in the course of this and the succeeding works ; but I must be here allowed to return my most sincere thanks to the Reverend Professor Henslow, who, when I was an under-graduate at Cambridge, was one chief means of giving me a taste for Natural History, —who, during my absence, took charge of the collec- tions I sent home, and by his correspondence directed my endeavours,—and who, since my return, has con- stantly rendered me every assistance which the kindest friend could offer. Cy. VOL. III. b CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Porto Praya—Ribeira Grande—Dry and clear atmosphere—Effect of lava on a calcareous beach— Habits of Aplysia and Octopus—St. Paul’s rocks non-volcanic—Incrustations and stalactites of phosphate of lime—In- sects first colonists—Fernando Noronha—Bahia—Extent of granite— Burnished rocks—Habits of Diodon—Pelagie conferve, infusoria— Causes of discoloured sea ; d : : 1 CHAPTER II. Rio de Janeiro—Excursion north of Cape Frio—Great evaporation— Slavery—Botofogo Bay— Terrestrial Planaria—Clouds on Corcovado— Heavy rain— Musical Hyla—Lampyris and its larvee—Elater, springing powers of— Blue haze—~ Noise of butterfly—Entomology—Ants— Wasp- killing spider — Parasitical spider — Artifices of Epeira— Gregarious spider—Spider with imperfect web. : : ria) CHAPTER III. Monte Video—Maldonado—Excursion to R. Polanco—Lazo and Bolas— Partridges—Geology—Absence of trees—Cervus campestris— River hog—Tucutuco—Molothrus, cuckoo-like habits of—Tyrant-flycatcher —Mocking-bird—Carrion hawks—Tubes formed by lightning—House struck ° : : ‘ - 44 CHAPTER IV. Rio Negro—Estancias attacked by Indians—Salt lakes, geological position of-—Flamingoes—R. Negro to Colorado—Sacred tree— Patagonian hare —Indian families—General Rosas—Proceed to Bahia Blanca—Sand dunes— Negro lieutenant—Bahia Blanca—Ground incrusted with Glau- ber salt—Punta Alta—Zorillo . a 04 CHAPTER V. Bahia Blanca— Geology— Extinct quadrupeds, four Edentata, horse, Ctenomys— Recent extinction of—Longevity of species— Large animals do not require luxuriant vegetation—Southern Africa—Siberian fossils —Catalogue of extinct quadrupeds of South America—Two species of Ostrich, habits of— 'Tinochorus—Oven-bird— Armadilloes— Venomous snake, toad, lizard—Hybernation of animals—Habits of sea-pen—In- dian wars and massacres— Arrow-head, antiquarian relic. + 95 CONTENTS. Xi CHAPTER VI. Set out for Buenos Ayres—Rio Sauce—Sierra Ventana—Transportal of pebbles—Third posta—Driving horses—Bolas—Partridges and foxes— Features of country—Long-legged plover — Teru-tero — Hailstorm— Natural enclosures in Sierra Tapalguen—Flesh of puma—Meat diet— Guardia del Monte—Effects of cattle on the vegetation—Cardoon— Buenos Ayres—Corral where animals are slaughtered . . 124 CHAPTER VII. Excursion to St. Fe—Thistle beds— Habits and range of Bizcacha—Little owl—Saline streams—Level plains—Mastodon—St, Fe—Change in landscape—Geology—Tooth of extinct horse—Range of fossil quadru- peds—Pampas full of remains—Effects of great droughts—Droughts periodical — Parana— Habits of Jaguar — Scissor-beak— Kingfisher, parrot, and scissor-tail—Revolution—Buenos Ayres—State of govern- ment : : : ‘ . - I CHAPTER VIII. Monte Video—Excursion to Colonia del Sacramiento—Horses, swimming . — Value of an Estancia—Cattle, how counted—Geology—Great thistle- beds—Rio Negro—Perforated pebbles—Shepherd dogs— Horses broken in, Gauchos riding, feats with lazo—Toxodon—Armadillo-like gigantic covering—Great tail—Return to Monte Video—Character of inha- bitants : : . . - 167 CHAPTER IX. Rio Plata—Flocks of butterflies—Beetles alive in the sea—Aeronaut spiders — Pelagic animals — Phosphorescence of sea—-Port Desire— Spanish settlements—Zoology—Guanaco—Excursion to head of har- bour—Indian grave—Port St. Julian—Geology of Patagonia, succes- sive terraces, transport of pebbles—Fossil gigantic llama—Types of organization constant—Change in zoology of America—Causes of ex- _ tinction : ae . E85 CHAPTER X. Santa Cruz—Expedition up river—Indians—Character of Patagonia— Basaltic platform—Immense streams of lava—Non-transport of blocks by river—Excavation of valley—Condor, range and habits—Cordil- lera—Erratic boulders of great size-~-Indian relics—Return to the ship : : : 213 CHAPTER XI. Tierra del Fuego, first arrival—Good Success Bay—Interview with sa- | vages—Scenery of the forests—Sir J. Banks’s hill—Cape Horn— Wig- wam Cove—Miserable condition of savages—Beagle channel—Fuegians —Ponsonby Sound—Equality of condition among the natives—Bifurca- tion of the Beagle channel—Glaciers—Return to ship — . 227 x CONTENTS. CHAPTER XII. Falkland Islands—Excursion round island—Aspect—Cattle, horses, rab- bit, wolf-like fox—Fire made of bones—Art in making fire— Manner of hunting wild cattle—Geology, fossil shells— Valleys filled with great fragments, scenes of violence— Penguin — Geese — Eggs of doris— Zoophytes, coralline phosphorescent—Compound animals . 245 CHAPTER XIII. Strait of Magellan—Port Famine—Geology—Deep water in channels— Erratic boulders—Climate—Limit of fruit trees—Mean temperature— Luxuriant forests—Rigour of antarctic islands—Contrast with the north—Snow-line, great flexure of—Glaciers—Icebergs transport frag- ments of rock—Glaciers in low latitude—Absence of erratic blocks in intertropical regions—Glaciers and tropical vegetation—Comparison with northern hemisphere—Siberian animals in ice—Embedded in cold mud—Edible fungus—Zoology—Fucus giganteus—Leave Tierra del Fuego : : : ‘ . 263 CHAPTER XIV. Valparaiso—Excursion to base of Andes—Structure of land—Ascend Bell of Quillota—Shattered masses of greenstone—Immense valleys— Mines—State of miners—Santiago—Hot baths of Cauquenes—Gold mines—Grinding mills—Perforated stones— Habits of puma—E] turco and tapacolo—Humming-birds . ‘ ‘ . 808 CHAPTER XV. Chiloe—General aspect—Boat excursion— Native Indians — Castro— Large leaves of Gunnera scabra—Tame fox—Ascend San Pedro— ~ Chonos Archipelago—Peninsula of Tres Montes—Granitic range— Lowe’s Harbour— Wild potato—Forest—Formation of peat—Myopo- tamus, otter and mice—Cheucau and barking-bird—Furnarius—Singu- lar character of ornithology—Petrels : : « 883 CHAPTER XVI. San Carlos, Chiloe—Osorno in eruption—Ride to Castro and Cucao— Impenetrable forests—Valdivia—Apple-trees—Ride to Llanos—In- dians—Earthquake—Concepcion—Great earthquake—FEffects of wave —Rocks fissured—Appearance of the former towns— Water in the bay black and boiling—Direction of vibration—Stones displaced—Cause of great waves—Permanent elevation of land—Great lake of fluid rock beneath crust of the globe—Connexion of volcanic phenomena—Slow elevation of mountain chains, cause of earthquakes. . 3856 CONTENTS. Xl CHAPTER XVII. Valparaiso—Passage of Andes by Portillo pass—Sagacity of mules— Mountain torrents—Mines, how discovered—Marine alluvium in val- leys—Effect of snow on surface—Geology, fossil shells, double range, two periods of elevation—Red snow— Winds on the crest—Snow thaw- ing in pinnacles—Dry and clear atmosphere—Electricity—Pampas— Zoology of opposite sides of Andes—Uniformity of Patagonia—Locusts —Great bugs—Mendoza—Uspallata—Silicified trees in vertical posi- tion—Indian ruins—Change of climate—Earthquake arching bed of river-—Cumbre—Valparaiso. 2 : . . 382 CHAPTER XVIII. Bell mountain—Miners—Great ‘loads carried by the Apires~-Coquimbo —Earthquake—Geology—Terraces—Excursion up valley—Road to Guasco—Desert country— Valley of Copiap6—Rain and earthquakes, Meteorolites— Hydrophobia—Copiap6—Excursion to Cordillera—Dry valley——Cold gales of wind—Noises from a hill—Iquique, complete desert—Salt alluvium—Nitrate of soda—Lima—Unhealthy country— Ruins of Callao, overthrown by earthquake—Elevated shells on island of San Lorenzo-—Plain with embedded fragments of pottery . 416 CHAPTER XIX. Galapagos Islands voleanic—Number of craters—Leafless bushes—Colony at Charles Island—James Island—Salt-lake in crater — Character of vegetation — Ornithology, curious finches—Great tortoises, habits of, paths to the wells—Marine lizard feeds on sea-weed—Terrestrial species, burrowing habits, herbivorous—Importance of reptiles in the Archi- pelago—Few and minute insects—American type of organization—Spe- cies confined to certain islands—Tameness of birds—Falkland Islands —Fear of man an acquired instinct. : F 7 S459 CHAPTER XX. Tahiti—Aspect of—Vegetation on the slope of the mountains—View of Eimeo—Excursion in the interior—Profound ravines—Succession of waterfalls— Number of wild useful plants—Temperance of inhabitants —Their moral state—Parliament convened—New Zealand—Bay of islands— Hippahs— Absence of all gover nment—Excursion to Waimate —Missionary establishment—English weeds now run wild— Waiomio— Funeral service—Sail from New Zealand ‘ . 479 CHAPTER XXI. Sydney—Prosperity of—Excursion to Bathurst— Aspect of woods——Party of Natives— Gradual extinction of aborigines— Blue Mountains— Weatherboard— View of a grand gulf-like valley—Sheep farm—Lion- ant—Bathurst, general civility of lower orders—State of society—Van VOL. III. Cc X1V . CONTENTS. Diemen’s Land—Hobart Town-—Aborigines all banished—Mount Wellington—King George’s Sound—Cheerless aspect of country— Bald Head, calcareous casts like branches of trees—Party of natives— Leave Australia 5 : : : . 515 CHAPTER XXII. Keeling Island—Singular appearance of—Scanty Flora—Transport of seeds —Birds and insects—Ebbing and flowing springs—Coral formations re- sisting power of ocean—Fields of dead coral—Stones transported by roots of trees—Great crab—Stinging corals—Structure of lagoon islands —Encircling and Barrier reefs—General proofs of subsidence in the Pacific—Theory of lagoon islands caused by subsidence of the land— Pacific and Indian oceans divided into alternate areas of elevation and subsidence—Points of eruption lie within the areas of elevation, 5389 CHAPTER XXIII. Mauritius, beautiful appearance of —Hindoos—Cape of Good Hope—St. Helena—Geology—History of changes in vegetation, probable cause of extinction of land-shells—Ascension— Green Hill—Curious incrusta- tions of calcareous matter on tidal rocks—Bahia—Brazil—Splendour of tropical scenery—Pernambuco—Singular reef—Azores—Supposed crater— Hints to collectors—Retrospect of the most impressive parts of the voyage . : , ; . 570 ADDENDA 2 : ‘ ; : - 609 INDEX. JOURNAL OF CHARLES DARWIN, M.A., NATURALIST TO THE BEAGLE, CHAPTER I. Porto Praya—Ribeira Grande—Dry and clear atmosphere—Effect of lava on calcareous beach— Habits of Aplysia and Octopus—St. Paul’s rock non-volcanic—Incrustations and stalactites of phosphate of lime— Insects first colonists—Fernando Noronha—Bahia—Extent of granite —Burnished rocks—Habits of Diodon—Pelagic conferve, infusoria— Causes of discoloured sea. ST. JAGO—CAPE DE VERD ISLANDS. JAN. 16TH, 1832.—The neighbourhood of Porto Praya, viewed from the sea, wears a desolate aspect. The volcanic fire of past ages, and the scorching heat of a tropical sun, have in most places rendered the soil sterile and unfit for vegetation. The country rises in successive steps of table land, interspersed with some truncate conical hills, and the horizon is bounded by an irregular chain of more lofty mountains. The scene, as beheld through the hazy at- mosphere of this climate, is one of great interest; if, indeed, a person, fresh from the sea, and who has just walked, for the first time, in a grove of cocoa-nut trees, can be a judge of any thing but his own happiness. The island would generally be considered as very uninteresting ; but to any one accustomed only to an English landscape, the novel VOL. III. B yy ST. JAGO—CAPE DE VERD ISLANDS. Jan. 1832. prospect of an utterly sterile land possesses a grandeur which more vegetation might spoil. A single green leaf can scarcely be discovered over wide tracts of the lava plains; yet flocks of goats, together with a few cows, con- trive to exist. It rains very seldom, but during a short portion of the year heavy torrents fall, and immediately afterwards a light vegetation springs out of every crevice. This soon withers ; and upon such naturally-formed hay the animals live. At the present time it has not rained for an entire year. ‘The broad, flat-bottomed, valleys, many of which serve during a few days only in the season as a water- course, are clothed with thickets of leafless bushes. Few living creatures inhabit these valleys. The commonest bird is a kingfisher (Dacelo jagoensis), which tamely sits on the branches of the castor-oil plant, and thence darts on the grasshoppers and lizards. It is brightly coloured, but not so beautiful as the European species: in its flight, manners, and place of habitation, which is generally in the driest valleys, there is also a wide difference. One day, two of the officers and myself rode to Ribeira Grande, a village a few miles to the eastward of Porto Praya. Until we reached the valley of St. Martin, the country pre- sented its usual dull brown appearance; but there, a very small rill of water produces a most refreshing margin of luxuriant vegetation. In the course of an hour we arrived at Ribeira Grande, and were surprised at the sight of a large ruined fort and cathedral. The little town, before its harbour was filled up, was the principal place in the island: it now presents a melancholy, but very picturesque appearance. Having procured a black Padre for a guide, and a Spaniard, who had served in the Peninsular war, as an interpreter, we visited a collection of buildings, of which an ancient church formed the principal part. It is here the governors and captain-generals of the islands have been buried. Some of the tombstones recorded dates of the sixteenth century.* * The Cape de Verd Islands were discovered in 1449. Jan. 1832. ST. JAGO—CAPE DE VERD ISLANDS. 3 The heraldic ornaments were the only things in this retired place that reminded us of Europe. The -church or chapel formed one side of a quadrangle, in the middle of which a large clump of bananas were growing. On-another side was a hospital, containing about a dozen miserable-looking in- mates. We returned to the “ Vénda” to eat our dinners. A con- siderable number of men, women, and children, all as black as jet, were collected to watch us. Our companions were extremely merry; and every thing we said or did was fol- lowed by their hearty laughter. Before leaving the town we visited the cathedral. It does not appear so rich as the smaller church, but boasts of a little organ, which sent forth most singularly inharmonious cries. We presented the black priest with a few shillings, and the Spaniard, patting him on the head, said, with much candour, he thought his colour made no great difference. We then returned, as fast as the ponies would go, to Porto Praya. Another day we rode to the village of St. Domingo, situ- ated near the centre of the island. Ona small plain which we crossed, a few stunted acacias were growing; their tops, by the action of the steady trade-wind, were bent in a singular manner—some of them even at a right angle to the trunk. The direction of the branches was exactly N.E. by N., and S.W. by S. These natural vanes must indicate the prevailing direction of the force of the trade wind. The travelling had made so little impression on the barren soil, that we here missed our track, and took that to Fuentes. This we did not find out till we arrived there; and we were afterwards very glad of our mistake. Fuentes is a pretty village, with a small stream; and every thing ap- peared to prosper well, excepting, indeed, that which ought to do so most—its inhabitants. The black children, com- pletely naked, and looking very wretched, were carrying bundles of firewood half as big as their own bodies. Near Fuentes we saw a large flock of guinea-fowl—pro- bably fifty or sixty in number. They were extremely wary, Bo 4 ST. JAGO—CAPE DE VERD ISLANDS. Jan. 1832. and could not be approached. They avoided us, like par- tridges on a rainy day in September, running with their heads cocked up ; and if pursued, they readily took to the wing. The scenery of St. Domingo possesses a beauty totally unexpected, from the prevalent gloomy character of the rest of the island. The village is situated at the bottom of a valley, bounded by lofty and jagged walls of stratified lava. The black rocks afford a most striking contrast with the bright green vegetation, which follows the banks of a little stream of clear water. It happened to be a grand feast-day, and the village was full of people. On our return we over- took a party of about twenty young black girls, dressed in most excellent taste; their black skins and snow-white linen being set off by their coloured turbans and large shawls. As soon as we approached near, they suddenly all turned round, and covering the path with their shawls, sung with great energy a wild song, beating time with their hands upon their legs. We threw them some vintems, which were received with screams of laughter, and we left them redoubling the noise of their song. It has already been remarked, that the atmosphere is generally very hazy; this appears chiefly due to an impal- pable dust, which is constantly falling, even on vessels far out at sea. The dust is of a brown colour, and under the blowpipe easily fuses into a black enamel. It is produced, as I believe, from the wear and tear of volcanic rocks, and must come from the coast of Africa. One morning the view was singularly clear; the distant mountains being projected with the sharpest outline, on a heavy bank of dark blue clouds. Judging from the appearance, and from similar cases in England, I supposed that the air was satu- rated with moisture. The fact, however, turned out quite the contrary. The hygrometer gave a difference of 29.6 degrees, between the temperature of the air, and the point at which dew was precipitated. This difference was nearly double that which I had observed on the previous mornings. Jan. 1832. GEOLOGY. 5 This unusual degree of atmospheric dryness was accompanied by continual flashes of lightning. Is it not an uncommon ease, thus to find a remarkable degree of aerial transparency with such a state of weather ? The geology of this island is the most interesting part of its natural history. On entering the harbour, a perfectly horizontal white band, in the face of the sea cliff, may be seen running for some miles along the coast, and at the height of about forty-five feet above the water. Upon examination, this white stratum is found to consist of calcareous matter, with numerous shells embedded, such as now exist on the neighbouring coast. It rests on ancient volcanic rocks, and has been covered by a stream of basalt, which must have entered the sea, when the white shelly bed was lying at the bottom. It is interesting to trace the changes, produced by the heat of the overlying lava, on the friable mass. For a thickness of several inches it 1s converted, in some parts, into a firm stone, as hard as the best freestone; and the earthy matter, originally mingled with the calcareous, has been separated into little spots, thus leaving the limestone white and pure. In other parts a highly crystalline marble has been formed, and so perfect are the crystals of carbonate of lime, that they can easily be measured by the reflecting goniometer. The change is even more extraordinary, where the lime has been caught up by the scoriaceous fragments of the lower surface of the stream; for 1t is there converted into groups of beautifully radiated fibres resembling arragonite. The beds of lava rise in successive gently-sloping plains, towards the interior, whence the deluges of melted stone originally proceeded. Within historical times, no signs of volcanic activity have, I believe, been manifested in any part of St. Jago. This state of quiescence is, probably, owing to the neighbouring island of Fogo being frequently in eruption. Even the form of a crater can but rarely be discovered on the summits of any of the red cindery hills; yet the more recent streams can be dis- tinguished on the coast, forming a line of cliffs of less height, but stretching out in advance of those belonging to an older 6 sT. JAGO—CAPE DE VERD ISLANDS. Jan. 1832. series: the height of the cliff thus affording a rude measure of the age. | During our stay, I observed the habits of some marine animals.