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EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

DURING THE YEARS

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BY

CHa Ries WILK fs) USN.
COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION,

MEMBER OF THE AMERICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, ETC.

IN FIVE VOLUMES, WITH THIRTEEN MAPS.

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ENTERED, ACCORDING TO THE ACT OF CONGRESS, IN THE YEAR 1844,

BY CHARLES WILKES, U. 5. N.

IN THE CLERK’S OFFICE OF THE DISTRICT COURT FOR THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA

ee

CONTENTS OF VOL IL

CHAPTER IL

GENERAL ASPECT OF TAHITI—ARRIVAL AND RECEPTION—GENERAL FIGURE OF THE
ISLAND—ITS GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE—OVERHAUL OF THE VESSELS—AN OBSERVA-
TORY ESTABLISHED—SURVEY OF HARBOURS—LONGITUDE OF POINT VENUS—HEIGHT
OF MOUNTAINS—VISITERS—TAUA, THE GOVERNOR OF MATAVAI—HIS HOSPITALITY
—CHURCH AT MATAVAI—CONCOURSE OF NATIVES—CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES—
SCHOOL AT PAPIETI—ADDRESS TO THE SCHOLARS—REPLY OF PAOFAI—GENERAL
DIFFUSION OF EDUCATION—COMPLAINTS OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL—COUNCIL OF
THE CHIEFS—INFLUENCE OF THE MISSIONARIES—CHARACTER OF A PART OF THE
FOREIGN RESIDENTS—CHANGE OF THE NATIONAL DRESS—GENERAL VIEW OF THE
LABOURS OF THE MISSIONARIES—IMPROVEMENT IN THE NATIVE CHARACTER—
CAUSES OF WANT OF INDUSTRY—CONSTITUTION OF TAHITI—COURTS OF JUSTICE—
QUEEN AND ROYAL FAMILY—JUDGES OF THE SUPREME COURT—STATE OF PARTIES
— CASE OF THE CATHOLIC PRIESTS—DWELLINGS OF THE NATIVES— APPEARANCE
OF THE FEMALES — DRESS OF THE TWO SEXES — TASTE OF THE NATIVES FOR
FLOWERS—COOKERY AND MODE OF EATING—MUSIC OF THE ISLANDERS—THEIR
DANCES — EXPEDITION TO LAKE WAIHEREA — ABORTIVE ATTEMPT TO ASCEND
OROHENA—DESCENT TO THE COAST—RETURN ALONG THE SOUTHERN AND WEST-
ERN COAST OF PAPIETI—NAVAL ARCHITECTURE AND FOREIGN TRADE..........1—36

(Os I 3) call Dee Ol oe

SAILING OF THE PORPOISE—APPLICATION FROM “JIM” THE PILOT—SURVEY OF HAR-
BOURS—DULPHIN BANK—THE VINCENNES PROCEEDS TO PAPIETI—VIEW OF PAPIETI

(v)

a CONTENTS.

—INTERVIEW WITH THE CHIEFS—GENERAL FREYRE—HITOTI—SECOND ATTEMPT |
TO ASCEND OROHENA—GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF TAHITI—VILLAGE AND BAY OF
PAPIETI—COMMERCE OF PAPIETI— POPULATION OF TAHITI — DISEASES— CRIMINAL
TRIAL—CULTIVATION — USEFUL PLANTS—ASCENT OF MOUNT AORAI—ABSENCE OF
FOSSILS ON TAHITIAN MOUNTAINS—RETURN FROM MOUNT AORAI—MANUFACTURES
OF TAHITI-REMARKS ON THE CONDUCT OF FOREIGN VISITERS—THEATRICALS BY
THE CREW OF THE PEACOCK—VINCENNES SAILS FOR EIMEO—VIEW OF EIMEO—
TALOO HARBOUR—LANDING AT EIMEO—RESIDENCE OF MR. SIMPSON—SCHOOL FOR
THE CHILDREN OF MISSIONARIES —CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES —SCENERY AND
STRUCTURE OF EIMEO—SUPPLIES TO BE PROCURED THERE—VILLAGES—COTTON
FACTORY — SUGAR PLANTATIONS — OTHER PRODUCTS— VON SCHANTZ’S CHART OF
TALOO HARBOUR—CONCLUSION ...-...ccesscecceesses Giejo.o efeiete sie Sielo's tiepitere conto Niele eee 37—60

CHAPTER IIL

DEPARTURE OF THE VINCENNES FROM TAHITI —BELLINGHAUSEN'S ISLAND — ROSE
ISLAND—MANUA—ITS DESCRIPTION—THREATENED WAR—ITS CAUSE—CANOES OF
MANUA—APPEARANCE AND CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES—VILLAGE—DRESS OF THE
NATIVES—PRODUCTIONS OF MANUA—OLOOSINGA—ITS DESCRIPTION—HOUSE OF THE
KING—HIS ENTERTAINMENT—RETURN TO THE SHIP—CORAL REEF OF OLOOSINGA—
OFOO—TEMPERATURE DURING THE PASSAGE—PLAN OF THE OPERATIONS OF THE
SQUADRON —APPEARANCE OF TUTUILA—HARBOUR OF PAGO-PAGO—ANCHORAGE—
TOA—OBSERVATORY—GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF TUTUILA—APPEARANCE AND
CHARACTER OF ITS INHABITANTS—MASSACRE OF M. DE LANGLE—VILLAGE OF
PAGO-PAGO — GOVERNMENT — WAR-MATS — VISIT TO TOA—HIS FEAST — PRICE OF
PROVISIONS—W AR-SONG—BATHING—MODE OF LIVING—EMPLOYMENTS AND AMUSE-
MENTS — MR. MURRAY, THE MISSIONARY — CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES — PUBLIC
WORSHIP — MISSIONARY—JUNCTION OF THE PEACOCK AND FLYING-FISH — SURVEYS
—CLIMATE — VISIT TO HEATHEN VILLAGES —SAVAGE FEAST — TEMPERATURE AT
THE TOP OF MATAFOA — SUPPOSED MURDER — REMARKABLE PHENOMENA OF THE

CHAP TER TV.

DEPARTURE OF THE VINCENNES FROM TUTUILA—HER NARROW ESCAPE FROM
WRECK — APPEARANCE OF UPOLU — MESSAGE FROM CAPTAIN HUDSON —CASE OF
TUVAI—COUNCIL OF THE CHIEFS—ARGUMENTS IN BEHALF OF TUVAI—CAPTAIN
HUDSON’S REPLY—DECISION OF THE CASE OF TUVAI—HIS BEHAVIOUR—COMPLAINTS
OF THE NATIVES AGAINST WHALERS—PEA’S VISIT TO TUVAI—OUTRAGES OF
OPOTUNO—VISIT TO MR. WILLIAMS—INTERVIEW WITH MALIETOA—HIS DAUGHTER
—REQUEST FOR A COUNCIL OF CHIEFS—THE VINCENNES ORDERED INTO PORT—
SURVEYING PARTIES—LAKE OF LAUTO—ITS LEGEND—SUPERSTITION REGARDING

CONTENTS. Vil

IT—MOUNT TOFUA—SUBTERRANEAN STREAMS—GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF UPOLU
—STREAMS OF LAVA—CAVERNS—SWALLOWS AT SANGA—WATERFALLS—GIMBLET
RELIGION—ATTEMPT TO CAPTURE OPOTUNO—FONO, OR COUNCIL OF HIGH CHIEFS—
ITS OBJECT—MR. J. WILLIAMS RECOGNISED AS CONSUL—REGULATIONS DISCUSSED
AND ADOPTED—DEMAND FOR OPOTUNO—FONO ADJOURNED—ITS SECOND MEETING
—SPEECH OF MALIETOA’S ORATOR— REWARD OFFERED FOR THE APPREHENSION
OF OPOTUNO—TERRITORIAL DIVISIONS OF UPOLU—TYRANNY OF TAMAFAGO—WAR
OF AANA—DESOLATION OF THAT DISTRICT—ISLAND OF MANONO— ISLAND OF
APOLIMA—PROCEEDINGS OF THE PORPOISE AT SAVAII—DR. PICKERING AND LIEU-
TENANT MAURY LAND THERE— SURVEY OF THE COAST OF SAVAII— NATIVE MIS.
SIONARY AT SALACHUA—FELIALUPO—ASAU—BAY OF MATAATUA—PECULIARITIES
OF ITS INHABITANTS—SAPAPALE—DR. PICKERING'S JOURNEY IN THE INTERIOR OF
SAVAII—CURIOSITY OF THE NATIVES—FISHING ON THE CORAL REEF—DESCRIPTION
OF SAVAII_-ITS PEAK—ITS INTERIOR—ITS WANT OF STREAMS—ITS CORAL REEF—
ITS SOIL—THE PORPOISE PROCEEDS TO TUTUILA, AND THENCE TO UPOLU—RE-
UNION OF THE SQUADRON—REVIEW OF THE MARINES—EARTHQUAKES ....... 85—114

CoH APSE EB Rik

GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF THE SAMOAN GROUP — ITS HARBOURS — ITS TIDES AND
CURRENTS—ITS CLIMATE—SIZE OF THE ISLANDS—SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS OF THE
GROUP—ITS CULTIVATION—ITS QUADRUPEDS—ITS BIRDS—ITS REPTILES—ITS FISH—
ITS PRODUCTS AVAILABLE FOR COMMERCE — LANGUAGE OF ITS NATIVES — THEIR
DISEASES — THEIR GENERAL APPEARANCE — THEIR NATIONAL CHARACTER —
LABOURS OF THE MISSIONARIES —NATIVE MISSIONARIES—SELECTION OF THEM
FOR THE NEW HEBRIDES —POPULATION OF THE ISLANDS — RELIGION OF THE
HEATHEN—THEIR IDEA OF THE CREATION—OF A FUTURE STATE—THEIR OMENS—
THEIR SUPERSTITION — THEIR DANCES — THEIR MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS — THEIR
AMUSEMENTS—PAPALANGI SHIP—THEIR BIRTHS—THEIR MARRIAGES AND COURT-
SHIP—THEIR ADOPTION OF CHILDREN—THEIR BURIALS—THEIR MOURNING—THEIR
MANNERS AND APPEARANCE— THEIR DRESS— IMPROVEMENTS IN THE ANCIENT
DRESS—TATTOOING—THEIR MANUFACTURE OF TAPA AND MATS—SAMOAN CANOES
—BOAT-SONG — HOUSES OF THE NATIVES— THEIR LIGHTS — THEIR FOOD — THEIR
HABITS— THEIR MALANGAS— THEIR PUNISHMENTS FOR CRIMES— THEIR WARS —
THEIR OLOS—THEIR PEACE-MAKING—CLASSES OF SAMOAN SOCIETY—ALLOTMENT
OF LANDS— MODE OF GOVERNMENT — DESCENT OF CHIEFTAINSHIP —CEREMONIES
AT THE FONOS....... Jontgouunog + Soleletate lof nelolelctofelstelelelaicialsialeleveic\s/aftelefefelelsvers oie olelia'slereisyeietelols 115—154

Gari PE, Eepay ok:

DEPARTURE FROM THE SAMOAN GROUP—WALLIS ISLAND—DISPOSITION MADE OF
TUVAI—CATHOLIC MISSIONARIES AT WALLIS ISLAND —HOORN ISLAND — MAT-

Vill CONTENTS.

THEWS’ ROCK—REMARKABLE THUNDER-STORM—BALL'S PYRAMID—PORT JACKSON
ENTERED—ARRIVAL AT SYDNEY—VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR—FORT MACQUARIE—
FATE OF REV. MR. WILLIAMS— DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN OF SYDNEY —ITS
STREETS—ITS RESEMBLANCE TO AMERICAN TOWNS—RELIGIOUS SECTS—PREVA-
LENCE OF INTOXICATION—GOVERNMENT-HOUSE—DRIVE TO SOUTH HEAD—PUBLIC
GROUNDS—MR. CUNNINGHAM THE BOTANIST—HIS MELANCHOLY FATE—COUNTRY
AROUND SYDNEY—THE NATURALISTS LEFT IN NEW SOUTH WALES—GENERAL
DESCRIPTION OF THAT COLONY —ITS FORESTS—ITS GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE —
COUNTRY SOUTHWEST OF SYDNEY—LIVERPOOL MOUNTAINS—COUNTRY NORTH OF
THE LIVERPOOL MOUNTAINS—ILLAWARRA— DROUGHTS AND FLOODS— REMARKS
OF MAJOR MITCHELL—RIVERS OF NEW SOUTH WALES—ITS MINERAL PRODUCTS—
ITS WATER—THE HEIGHT OF ITS MOUNTAINS—ITS CLIMATE—ITS TEMPERATURE—
PREVAILING WINDS—ITS VEGETATION—MONOTONY OF ITS SCENERY—ITS HORTI-
CULTURE—NATIVES OF AUSTRALIA—THEIR NUMBERS—THEIR PHYSICAL TRAITS—
THEIR CHARACTER— THEIR WANDERING HABITS—THEIR TIMIDITY—THEIR CON-
FLICTS — THEIR CORROBORY DANCES— ACCOUNT OF ONE OF THEIR BATTLES —
THEIR MODE OF SETTLING PRIVATE QUARRELS—THEIR WEAPONS—THEIR MODE
OF CLIMBING—THEIR CANOES—THEIR SOCIAL SYSTEM—THEIR CUSTOM OF MAKING
YOUNG MEN—THEIR MARRIAGES— BURIAL OF THEIR DEAD— THEIR RELIGIOUS
OPINIONS )104 ae. oeee ROE errr rare PEE ae Na Nn 9 gather tat 155—198

Ci Ay PE ER Veit.

EXTENT OF SEA-COAST OF AUSTRALIA—PROGRESS OF DISCOVERY—EXTENT OF THE
GOVERNMENT OF NEW SOUTH WALES—HISTORY OF NEW SOUTH WALES—AUSTRA-
LIAN LAND COMPANY—LAND FUND—POLICY OF GOVERNOR MACQUARIE—CONVICT-
SHIP— VALUE OF CONVICT LABOUR —DISPOSITION OF CONVICTS ON ARRIVAL —
ALLOWANCES TO CONVICT SERVANTS—WORKING OF THE ASSIGNMENT SYSTEM—
SEPARATION OF FEMALE CONVICTS FROM THEIR CHILDREN—FACTORY AT PARA-
MATTA—ITS DISCIPLINE—CHILDREN IN THE FACTORY — IRON-GANGS — CAPTAIN
MACONOCHIE’S SOCIAL SYSTEM — [TS OPERATION —ITS PARTIAL ADOPTION AT
SYDNEY, AND AT NORFOLK ISLAND—TWO DIFFERENT FORMS OF SOCIAL SYSTEM—
CONDITION OF CONVICTS AND SOLDIERS COMPARED — TICKET-OF-LEAVE MEN —
DISTINCTIONS IN SOCIETY—FREE EMIGRANTS—LABOURING CLASS OF FREE EMI-
GRANTS—CRIMPS—HIGHER CLASS OF SOCIETY—GOVERNOR, HOW APPOINTED, AND
FOR WHAT TERM—HIS POWERS—HIS SUCCESSOR IN CASE OF DEATH OR ABSENCE
LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL—COLONIAL RULES AND REGULATIONS—EXPENDITURE AND
MODE OF TAXATION—WORKING OF THE LEGISLATIVE SYSTEM—STATUTE OF NEW
SOUTH WALES—DESIRE FOR A NEW CONSTITUTION—BOUNTY ON IMMIGRATION—
EMIGRATION—MODE OF PROCURING GRANTS OF LAND—STATE OF CRIME IN NEW
SOUTH WALES—JUDGE BURTON’S CHARGE—HIS REPORT ON THE JURY SYSTEM—
OPINIONS OF OTHER JUDGES— COURTS OF LAW — EDUCATION — BISHOPRIC OF NEW
SOUTH WALES—COLLEGES ....ccecccscveccccccccscrcegesccesccsccecccscssecesscsscecs 0 19G—239

CONTENTS. ix

CH AvP Ti Ey ovo lit

JAUNT TO PARAMATTA— DESCRIPTION OF THAT PLACE— OBSERVATORY—GOVERN-
MENT-HOUSE AND FARM—VISIT OF NATURALISTS TO ILLAWARRA—WOOLONGONG
—VEGETATION OF ILLAWARRA—LAKE OF ILLAWARRA—JAUNT OF MESSRS. HALE
AND AGATE TO HUNTER’S RIVER—TOWN OF NEWCASTLE—COAL MINES—CONVICT
MARRIAGES—CONVICT STOCKADE—NATIVES—JOURNEY TO LAKE MACQUARIE—MR.
THRELKELD— MACQUARIE LAKE—CONVICT SERVANTS—M’GILL, THE NATIVE—
SHEEP-SHEARING—VISIT TO PEUEN BEUEN—BANKS OF HUNTER RIVER—MR. HALE’S
JOURNEY TO WELLINGTON VALLEY—MAIL CARRIAGE—POST-OFFICE DEPARTMENT
—PENRITH—BLUE MOUNTAINS—MOUNT VICTORIA—VALLEY OF CLWYD—BATHURST
—LAKES—BUSH-RANGERS—WELLINGTON—NATIVE CHILDREN—MR. WATSON—SHEEP-
SHEARING—PROFITS OF SHEEP-FARMS—FLOODS OF THE MACQUARIE—POPULATION
OF THE WEST—NATIVE LANGUAGES—MR. PEALE’S JOURNEY—CLIFTON—CAPTAIN
MARTHUR—HE INTRODUCES THE FINE-WOOL SHEEP—LIVERPOOL—DAM IN COOK’S
RIVER — NEPEAN RIVER — BIRDS —WALLABIES — STRATHARA—BIRDS—DECREASE OF
NATIVE ANIMALS—VISIT TO NEWINGTON—SALT-WORKS—PREVALENCE OF SALT IN
AUSTRALIA—DECREASE OF LAKES—ANCIENT FLOODS—DESCRIPTION OF FISSURES—
EARTHQUAKES—BURNING MOUNTAIN—TRADE OF NEW SOUTH WALES—FISHERIES
—BANKS—EXPORTS—DEPOTS FOR GRAIN—COLONY AT SWAN RIVER—SOUTH AUS-
TRALIA— FETE AT FORT MACQUARIE — SURPRISE OF THE COLONISTS AT OUR
WANT OF PREPARATION—STATE OF THE PEACOCK—ARRIVAL OF H. B. M. SHIP
DRUID — SEASON OF OUR VISIT — FACILITIES FOR OUTFITS AT SYDNEY — KINDNESS
AND HOSPITALITY OF CITIZENS—CHRISTMAS DINNER—DEPARTURE OF THE SQUAD-
BOW DESEREERS POUND ON BOARD 20.500... cjccc sss eiwislers aise sinjeisse sie es ons cieitine ie cte.s 241—277

CHAPTER IX.

PRELIMINARY REMARKS— PROCEEDINGS OF THE SQUADRON TO THE SECOND OF
JANUARY—SEPARATION OF THE FLYING-FISH AND PEACOCK—FIRST ICEBERG SEEN
— FALL IN WITH THE ICY BARRIER — PORPOISE LOST SIGHT OF — PROCEEDINGS OF
THE PEACOCK FROM THE THIRD OF JANUARY —HER VISIT TO MACQUARIES
ISLAND — FIRST ICEBERG SEEN BY HER — SHE FALLS IN WITH THE ICY BARRIER —
PROCEEDINGS OF THE PORPOISE—SEA-ELEPHANTS SEEN AND TAKEN—LAND SEEN
FROM ALL THE VESSELS — PROCEEDINGS OF THE VINCENNES FROM THE SIX-
TEENTH OF JANUARY—SHE ENTERS A DEEP BAY IN THE BARRIER—PEACOCK AND
PORPOISE SEEN — PEACOCK SPOKEN —LAND DISTINCTLY SEEN FROM THE VIN-
CENNES AND PEACOCK—FIGHT BETWEEN A WHALE AND KILLER, SEEN FROM THE
PEACOCK — PROCEEDINGS OF THE PEACOCK —SOUNDINGS OBTAINED BY HER—HER

PERILOUS SITUATION AND PROVIDENTIAL ESCAPE —HER CRIPPLED CONDITION --
VOL. Il. B

x CONTENTS.

CAPTAIN HUDSON RESOLVES TO RETURN—HIS ADMIRABLE CONDUCT, AND THAT
OF HIS OFFICERS AND CREW..... cise eines secs voles siee ce eee cece eereeesc cece seeees es 0 219—306

CHAPTER X.

PROCEEDINGS OF THE VINCENNES FROM THE TWENTY-SECOND OF JANUARY—DIS-
APPOINTMENT BAY—WATERING ON THE ICE—DIAGRAMS OF THE ICE-ISLANDS—
THEIR UTILITY — VIOLENT GALE AND SNOW-STORM— NARROW ESCAPE FROM
STRIKING THE ICE— THE OPEN SEA REACHED — RETURN OF FINE WEATHER —
VINCENNES STANDS AGAIN TO THE SOUTH, AND REACHES THE ICY BARRIER—
PINER’S BAY —SOUNDINGS IN THIRTY FATHOMS — ANOTHER VIOLENT GALE —
REPORT OF THE MEDICAL OFFICERS—OPINION OF THE WARD-ROOM OFFICERS—
DETERMINATION TO PROCEED WITH THE CRUISE—ITS EVENTS UP TO THE FOUR-
TEENTH OF FEBRUARY — LANDING ON AN ICEBERG — SPECIMENS OF ROCKS OB-
TAINED—INQUIRY IN RELATION TO THE FORMATION OF ICEBERGS—THEIR SEPARA-
TION FROM THE LAND— THEIR PROGRESS — FURTHER EVIDENCE IN RELATION TO
THE ANTARCTIC CONTINENT — ESTIMATE OF THE RATE AT WHICH THE FLOAT-
ING ICE MOVES—THE VINCENNES BEGINS HER RETURN TO THE NORTH 2 ++ 307—338

CHAPTER XI.

PROCEEDINGS OF THE PORPOISE FROM THE TWENTY-SECOND TO THE THIRTIETH OF
JANUARY—FRENCH SQUADRON SEEN—ITS COMMANDER REFUSES TO SPEAK THE
PORPOISE — PROCEEDINGS UP TO THE THIRD OF FEBRUARY — GALE — FURTHER
PROCEEDINGS TO THE TWELFTH OF FEBRUARY—SPECIMENS OF ROCK OBTAINED—
WESTERN LIMIT OF HER CRUISE—RETURN TO THE EASTWARD—PORPOISE STANDS
TO THE NORTHWARD — AUCKLAND ISLANDS — PORPOISE ARRIVES AT THE BAY OF
ISLANDS—CRUISE OF THE FLYING-FISH—LANDING AT MACQUARIE’S ISLAND—PRO-
CEEDINGS OF THE FLYING-FISH UP TO THE FOURTH OF FEBRUARY —STATE OF
HER CREW—THEIR LETTER TO LIEUTENANT PINKNEY—HE RESOLVES TO RETURN
—ARRIVAL OF THE FLYING-FISH AT THE BAY OF ISLANDS—EVENTS DURING THE
RETURN OF THE VINCENNES—SHE FAILS TO REACH VAN DIEMEN’S LAND — AR-
RIVAL OF THE VINCENNES AT SYDNEY—PEACOCK FOUND THERE—RETURN OF THE
PEACOCK FROM THE ICY BARRIER—SHE MAKES MACQUARIE’S ISLAND — SHE
ARRIVES AT SYDNEY —STATE OF THE PEACOCK — HOSPITALITIES RECEIVED AT
SYDNEY... .cccsevsceecees SoD SOn0s0O 75005000000 oie sv ein stewie eels mislevetoletayelaietolietele{oFelets/steletele eTafela]= 339—365

CHAP. Tos) Xl

DEPARTURE FROM SYDNEY—PASSAGE TO NEW ZEALAND—ARRIVAL AT THE BAY OF
ISLANDS—MEETING WITH THE SCIENTIFIC CORPS—THEIR PASSAGE FROM SYDNEY
—BAY OF ISLANDS — RIVERS WHICH FALL INTO IT— FACE OF THE COUNTRY —

CONTENTS. Xl

ACTIVE VOLCANO—HOT SPRING OF TAIAIMI—CRATER OF POERUA—DR. PICKERING 5
VISIT TO HOKIANGA—MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENT AT PAHIA — KORORARIKA —
ENGLISH POLICE MAGISTRATE AND ACTING GOVERNOR — TREATY OF CESSION TOG
ENGLAND—CONDUCT OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL—INSTALLATION OF THE LIEU-
TENANT-GOVERNOR— OPINION OF THE CHIEFS IN RELATION TO THE TREATY —
ARRIVAL OF ENGLISH REVENUE OFFICERS— LAND CLAIMS—BURDENSOME TAXES
AND TARIFF—THEIR EFFECT ON AMERICAN COMMERCE—EXPENSE OF THE NEW
GOVERNMENT — CASE OF JOHN SAC — HIS LETTER TO MR. WALDRON — FURTHER
REMARKS ON THE TREATY OF CESSION — VIOLENT GALE—ITS EXTENT AND
ROTARY CHARACTER— FOREIGN RESIDENTS— HIGH PRICE OF LAND — MISSIONS—
TABOO—PAS, OR FORTIFIED TOWNS—DWELLINGS—TOMB—DRESS OF THE NATIVES
—THEIR STOREHOUSES — THEIR FOOD— THEIR ARMS AND ORNAMENTS — KING
POMARE—MAUPARAWA—CHARLEY POMARE—POMARE’S WARS—CEREMONY OF HIS
RETURN—HIS MEANNESS—POPULATION OF NEW ZEALAND—VISIT TO WANGARARA
—POLITENESS OF KO-TOWATOWA—WANGARARA BAY—CHARACTER OF THE NEW
ZEALANDERS — THEIR PERSONAL APPEARANCE — TRADITION IN RELATION TO
THEIR ORIGIN—TATTOOED HEADS—CANNIBALISM—CONDITION AND PROSPECTS OF
THE NATIVES—NATIVE DANCES—MUSIC—CHATHAM ISLAND—CHART OF THE BAY
OF ISLANDS—MR. COUTHOUY’S PASSAGE FROM SYDNEY—HIS ACCOUNT OF MOUNT
EGMONT—OF PORT COOPER—WARS OF ROBOLUA—PORT LEVY—KORAKIBARURU—
PIGEIN BAY—CAPE CAMPBELL AND SNOWY PEAKS—CLOUDY BAY—ROBOLUA —
HABITS OF THE NATIVES, AND PREVAILING WINDS AT CLOUDY BAY —CLIMATE
OF NEW ZEALAND — DISEASES — SOIL — CULTIVATION —VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS—
TIMBER--CANOES—QUADRUPEDS—BIRDS—COMMERCE .....20.cc00 sevcccsses.ovee-307—414

RW St

Pitas
iy thy

a

a

JES Lk Oialt s hella lly Ser spdl daira hey Una levoye

VODUM® Il.

PLATES.

PortTRaiT oF CommManpeR Wm. L, Hupson, U.S. N. Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Broom Roap.
Emma.

Matietoa.

Samoan Dance.
SYDNEY,
Corrogory Dance.

Forest, ILLAwaRRa.

PEACOCK IN CONTACT WITH THE IcE.

Engraved by Jordan and Halpin,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by W. H. Dougal,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by Jordan and Halpin,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by Jordan and Halpin,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by Alfred Jones,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by Rawdon, Wright and Hatch,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by E. G, Dunnel,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by J. A. Rolph,

Sketched by A. T. Agate.
Engraved by M. Osborne,

VINCENNES IN DisappointmEeNT Bay. Sketched by C. Wilkes, U.S. N.

ANTARCTIC CONTINENT,

View 1n New ZEALAND.

New ZEALAND Tome.

Ko-TOWATOWA,

Engraved by C, A. Jewett,
Sketched by C. Wilkes, U.S. N.

Engraved by Jordan and Halpin,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by G. H. Cushman,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by Jordan and Halpin,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by V. Balch,

(x11)

TITLE

Xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Swineoine, TAHITI.
FisHery, TAHITI.

EIMEo.

Harsour oF PaGo-PAGco.

APOLIMA.

PAPALANGI SHIP.

AcrosTicHuM GRANDE,

SETTLER’S CoTTAGE.

VINCENNES IN A STORM,

Avrora AUSTRALIS,

PorpolsE IN A GALE,

Avrora AUSTRALIS.

New ZEALAND Pa,

‘PomarRE’s House.

Paoral,

Common TAHnITIAN CANOE.

Native House, Tanti.

TaHITIAN GIRL WITH THE Hav.

Mate Costume.
Music.

TRADING CANOE.
BEATING TaPaA.

Music.

Navigator Cxiuss, &c.
Fans, Baskets, &c.
Ouwa TREE.

VIGNETTES.

Sketched by A. T. Agate.
Engraved by 'T. House,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.
Engraved by A. C. Warren,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by Smillie and Hinchelwood,

Sketched by C. Wilkes, U.S. N.

Engraved by V. Balch,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by E. Hobart,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by J. A. Rolph,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by J. A. Rolph,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by W. H. Ellis,
Sketched by C. Wilkes, U.S. N.

Engraved by Jordan and Halpin,
Sketched by C. Wilkes, U.S. N.

Engraved by W. H. Dougal,
Sketched by G. M. Totten, U.S. N.

Engraved by N. Gimbrede,
Sketched by C. Wilkes, U. S. N.

Engraved by W. H. Dougal,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by A. W. Graham,
Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by W. E. Tucker,

WOOD-CUTS.

Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Pease,

Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Sketched by J. Drayton,

Sketched by A. T, Agate.

Sketched by J. Drayton,

Sketched by A. T. Agate.
Sketched by A. T. Agate.
Sketched by T. R. Peale.

Sketched by J. Drayton.

Engraved by J. J. Butler,

Engraved by R. H. Pease,

Engraved by R. H. Pease,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.t Engraved by J. J. Butler,

Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Engraved by R. H. Pease.
Engraved by J. J. Butler,

Engraved by R. H. Pease,
Sketched by J. Drayton.t Engraved by R. H. Pease,

Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. H.

379

386

21

Music.

Music.

Devit Man.
Samoan GIRL.
TATTOOING,

Samoan Canoe,
Music.

Samoan House.
Samoan Pet PIGeon.

Native Hut, N.S. W.
Native or AUSTRALIA.

Music,
Music.

NATIVE THROWING THE BooMERENG.

FLIGHT OF THE BooMERENG,

NativE WEAPONS AND
M’GI1.

New Ho.uanp Boy.
Daisy Bank.
MacquarigE IsLanp,
Lanp anp Fietp-Ice.
Peacock Bay.
IcEBERG.

DiacGRamM.
TABULAR ICEBERG,
INCLINED ICEBERG.
IcEBERG.
Icr-IsLanp.

AUCKLAND ISLEs.

IcEBERG.

New ZEALAND CaRVING.
Woman Anp Culzp, N,

New ZEALAND GIRL.

New ZEALAND Inv anp WEapons,

TaHITI.
SaMoan Group.

AUSTRALIA AND New Soutn WALES,

LIST OF TLEVST RAT LON S.

Sketched by J. Drayton,

Sketched by J. Drayton,

Sketched by A. T. Agate.t Engraved by R.S8. Gilbert,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.t Engraved by R. 8, Gilbert,
Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. H. Pease,
Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by R. H. Pease,
Sketched by J. Drayton,

Sketched by J. Drayton.t Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.t Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Sketched by J. Drayton.t Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. H. Pease,
Sketched by J. Drayton,

Sketched by J. Drayton,

Sketched by J. Drayton.t Engraved by R. S.
Gilbert,

Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by R.S. Gilbert,
Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. H. Pease,
Engraved by R.S. Gilbert,
Engraved by J. J. Butler,

SHIELD.

Sketched by A. T..Agate.

Sketched by A. T. Agate.

Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. H. Pease,

Sketched by F. D. Stuart. Engraved by J. J. Butler,

Sketched by C. Wilkes, U.S. N. Engraved by J. J. Butler,

Sketched by F. D. Stuart} Engraved by R. 8. Gilbert,

Sketched by G. M. Totten, U. S. N.t Engraved by R. H.
Pease,

Sketched by J. A. Underwood, U.S. N. Engraved by R.S.
Gilbert,

Sketched by C. Wilkes, U.S. N. Engraved by B. F. Childs,

Sketched by C. Wilkes, U.S. N. Engraved by B. F. Childs,

Sketched by C, Wilkes, U.S. N. Engraved by B. F. Childs,

Sketched by G. M. Totten, U. 8. N. Engraved by B. F.
Childs,

Sketched by G. M. Totten, U.S. N. Engraved by R.
O’Brien,

Sketched by C. Wilkes, U.S. N. Engraved by B. F. Childs,

Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. H. Pease,
Z. Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.t Engraved by R. H.
Pease,

MAPS.

Engraved by Sherman and Smith,
Engraved by Sherman and Smith,
Engraved by E, Tappan,

XV

134
135
139
149
141
143
145
146
154
125
186
189
190

192
198
238
254
254
277
287
294
304

306

311
330
331
332

338

351
365
385
388
395

AJA

39

Q)
Jv

201

Those marked with a +, were drawn on the wood by J. H. Manning; those marked
with a t, by W. G. Armstrong. Those not marked, by the Artists of the Expedition.

H it

ae ee
i ne ; fe ae
eR cee a ee

+ ‘ ral

1
i

haat Trays

Hemi ieee

Cll aa et Re

CONTENTS.

GENERAL ASPECT OF TAHITI—ARRIVAL AND RECEPTION—GENERAL FIGURE OF THE
ISLAND—ITS GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE—OVERHAUL OF THE VESSELS—AN OBSERVA-
TORY ESTABLISHED—SURVEY OF HARBOURS—LONGITUDE OF POINT VENUS—HEIGHT
OF MOUNTAINS—VISITERS—TAUA, THE GOVERNOR OF MATAVAI—HIS HOSPITALITY—
CHURCH AT MATAVAI—CONCOURSE OF NATIVES—CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES —
SCHOOL AT PAPIETI—ADDRESS TO THE SCHOLARS—REPLY OF PAOFAI—GENERAL
DIFFUSION OF EDUCATION—COMPLAINTS OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL—COUNCIL OF
THE CHIEFS—INFLUENCE OF THE MISSIONARIES—CHARACTER OF A PART OF THE
FOREIGN RESIDENTS—CHANGE OF THE NATIONAL DRESS—GENERAL VIEW OF THE
LABOURS OF THE MISSIONARIES —IMPROVEMENT IN THE NATIVE CHARACTER —
CAUSES OF WANT OF INDUSTRY—CONSTITUTION OF TAHITI—COURTS OF JUSTICE—
QUEEN AND ROYAL FAMILY—JUDGES OF THE SUPREME COURT—STATE OF PARTIES
—CASE OF THE CATHOLIC PRIESTS—DWELLINGS OF THE NATIVES—APPEARANCE OF
THE FEMALES—DRESS OF THE TWO SEXES—TASTE OF THE NATIVES FOR FLOWERS
—COOKERY AND MODE OF EATING—MUSIC OF THE ISLANDERS—THEIR DANCES —
EXPEDITION TO LAKE WAIHEREA— ABORTIVE ATTEMPT TO ASCEND OROHENA—
DESCENT TO THE COAST—RETURN ALONG THE SOUTHERN AND WESTERN COAST TO
PAPIETI—NAVAL ARCHITECTURE AND FOREIGN TRADE.

MS) y ie hn) Nv Mes of TTY his bai desi A at ay
i i} oid . i : hare, »
v { I re
t \ : ae et '
, PS
3 wy
Caan i :
i iy y 2
' i ah e
f \ , ee cat
y i
i} } t
)
mw i) ~ a1
i ,
Mi ( hi
{ i f
, ¢ a { .
j ' j
il : tee, i
\
2 ;
| ra
. j \
i i ' i ~ i j
ies %
'
bs ‘
R i
i ‘ is i z
i
;
¥ t
j ‘
; a
, 7 be
it
‘
' t ?
; ; ‘ f oe ea A Wf Dad a , { Ti
B i " 4 J i y +
ene 1
; ; Hewat
; 4 ely is ies. :
rd ey ti?
( i i ad % my iG
‘ {ui int} PI ie a Si inat
] : ba, . , LR AEE RE Pat,
t 7 ye 1 wey ‘

NARRATIVE

OF

THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION

CHAPTER I.
Ty AELID E
1839.

Tue beauty of the distant view of Tahiti has been celebrated by
all navigators, but I must confess that it disappointed me. ‘The entire
outline of the island was visible for too short a time and at too great a
distance to permit its boasted features to be distinctly seen. Upona
second and nearer view, its jagged peaks and rugged inaccessible
mountains were visible, but we looked in vain for the verdant groves
which are said by all writers to clothe it. These indeed exist, but are
confined to a narrow belt of low land, lying between the mountains
and the shore, and being unseen at a distance, the general aspect of
the island is that of a land recently thrown up by volcanic action.

When, however, Tahiti is approached so near as to make separate
objects visible, the contrast between it and the barren coast of Peru
becomes striking. Even upon the steep surface of its cliffs, vegetation
abounds; the belt of low land is covered with the tropical trees pecu-
liar to Polynesia; while the high peaks and wall-faced mountains in
the rear are covered with vines and creeping plants. This verdure is
seen to rise from a quiet girdle of water, which is again surrounded
by a line of breakers, dashing in snow-white foam on the encircling

(3)

4 TAHITI.

reefs of coral. Such objects are sufficient to form a beautiful land-—
scape, and my disappointment probably arose in part from finding
every thing more diminutive than I had been led to imagine from the
highly-wrought descriptions I had been perusing only a few days
before.

We were surrounded, even before we anchored, by canoes of all
shapes and sizes, whose crews made a prodigious clamour. I at once
interdicted any one who was not a chief from coming on board; but
upon this being announced, every one claimed to be a chief of some
description or other. Only the great chiefs, therefore, were admitted.
These came off in whale-boats, which are now superseding the canoe,
and brought with them trifling presents of fruit. It was soon found
that their errand was not one of mere ceremony, but was intended to
solicit the washing of our dirty linen, a business which is among the
prerogatives of the queen and chiefs. I was informed that the queen,
being enceinte, was residing on the opposite side of the island, which
would prevent her from paying us a visit. I was, therefore, at liberty
to choose a less distinguished laundress, and spared the pain of resisting
her royal solicitations for soap, an article much needed and in great
request at Tahiti.

I was glad when the night closed in, to be rid of our numerous
visiters. The pilot, who goes by the name of “ English Jim,” was
equally so, for he chose to be considered as the only privileged person,
and, besides, was looking somewhat to his own profit in the line of
clothes-washing, a business which the presence of the chiefs threatened
to interfere with. Jim is quite a respectable-looking man, dresses in
the European fashion, and speaks English, which he has acquired on
board of whale-ships, tolerably well. Although a good pilot, so far as
a knowledge of the shoals goes, he does not understand what to do
with a vessel, in case of difficulty. He told me that he had been
looking out for vessels for some days, for it had thundered.

Although the shape and extent of ‘Tahiti are well known, I venture
to give a map of it, which has been made as correct as our opportu-
nities would permit. The two peninsulas, if they may be so termed,
of which it is made up, are of very different characters. ‘The smaller
one, called Tairaboo, and usually spoken of as “the small island,” is
said to be the most fertile: it possesses some harbours, but they are
little better known than they were half a century ago. Both peninsulas
possess twenty-four harbours, including the good and bad. Tahiti
proper contains the best, and therefore engrosses all the commerce. It
has in consequence been for many years the seat of government.

The whole island is of volcanic formation, but there is no longer

TATED Pa; 5

any active igneous action, nor is there any well-defined crater to be
seen. Coral reefs, with occasional openings, are attached to the
shores, and the larger island (Tahiti) has also a sea reef. Between the
two reefs is an almost continuous channel for boat navigation, and on
the northern side they enclose many safe and commodious harbours
for shipping. On this side also vessels may pass from harbour
to harbour, within the outer reef. This reef varies in breadth from
a few yards to fifty, or even a hundred. The shore that adjoins
the coral reef is formed of black volcanic sand, occasionally mixed
with comminuted shells, which give it a grayish hue. Basaltic ridges
reach the sea at intervals, and form projecting points of moderate
elevation.

We began without delay to overhaul the vessels, and the few sick
persons we had on board were sent on shore to a shed hired for the
purpose on Point Venus.

An observatory was established at the same place, and furnished
with both astronomic and magnetic instruments; and as soon as the
repairs of the vessels had made such progress as to permit it, parties
were formed for the survey of the four principal harbours and the
channels between them. These harbours, Matavai, Papaoa, Toanoa,
and Papieti, are so important to the many whale-ships which visit this
island, that I felt it an imperative duty to obtain accurate charts of
them all. At the same time, a large party of officers and naturalists
was ordered to cross the island, to reach, if possible, Orohena, one of
the highest peaks, and to visit Lake Waiherea.

I had been in hopes of obtaining a full series of moon culminating
stars on Point Venus; but I was disappointed, for it rained almost
every night. I was, therefore, compelled to rely for the longitude on
the chronometers alone, and restricted even in that method to observa-
tions of the sun. I was, however, well pleased to find that my results
differed from the best preceding authorities no more than 1’ 33” of
space. These authorities give 149° 29’ 43” W., for the longitude of
Point Venus. :

The mountains were obscured by clouds during the whole time of
my stay, and no angles could be taken for the measurement of their
heights, nor could the party I detached for the purpose reach their
summits; but the Peacock remained for some days after my departure.
and Captain Hudson, with his officers, succeeded in measuring the
height of Aorai, the peak which is next in height to Orohena. This
he found to be six thousand nine hundred and seventy-nine feet; and
as Orohena appeared to be about one thousand five hundred feet

higher, the height of the latter peak may be set down as about eight
Az

6 TAHITI.

thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea. From these two
peaks, ridges diverge to all parts of the coast, throwing off spurs as
they descend. These ridges are precipitous, and for the most part
narrow. In many instances their summit is a mere edge, making
walking upon them not only dangerous, but often impossible.

Soon after my arrival, I was visited by S. R. Blackler, Eisq., our
consul, who resides at Papieti, distant eight miles from Matavai. ‘The
resident missionaries, with Mr. Pritchard, Her Britannic Majesty’s
acting consul, and Mr. Morenhout, the French consul, also favoured
me with a visit, as did several other persons, who all expressed their
desire of being serviceable to us.

The governor of the district of Matavai, Taua, was the first ac-
quaintance of any distinction that we made. He had already visited
the Vincennes on her anchoring. He is a fine-looking man, of huge
proportions, and has a large establishment near Point Venus, where he
monopolized nearly all the washing, which was performed by his
numerous dependants. By this business he derives some remuneration
for the cost of feeding and clothing them, putting the gains of their
labour into his own pocket. Such, at least, is his own account of the
transaction.

Taua’s usual dress was a striped cotton shirt, nankeen pantaloons
that had once been yellow, and a round jacket of blue cloth. Both
shirt and pantaloons were too tight, and he had neither suspenders
nor stockings, although he wore shoes. In this guise he had an
awkward look, which he probably would not have exhibited in a
native costume.

He was profuse in offers of hospitality at his own house, and many
of the officers were induced to accept his invitations. His entertain-
ments appear to have been of the same general character with that to
which I was treated, and which will, therefore, serve as a specimen of
the mode in which such things are done by the “good society” of
‘Tahiti. ) | |

We reached his dwelling in time to see the preparations for the
feast. These were entrusted to his man of all work, Stephen, or as he
called him, “ Stiffin.” This useful personage exhibited his dexterity,
not only in cooking, but in killing the poultry. The bird selected was
a cock, for the Tahitians well understand the difference in value
between it and the hens; and Stephen exhibited much adroitness in
the slaying, plucking, and dressing. While this was going on, the
stones for the Tahitian oven, so often described by voyagers, were
heating, and when they had acquired the proper temperature, the ashes
were carefully swept off,—bread-fruit, taro, and plantains, wrapped in

TAHITI. "

leaves, were then laid on the stones, with the fowl in the centre, and
the whole covered up. In about an hour the oven was carefully
opened, the contents exposed, and found to be thoroughly cooked.
The dinner was then served in an earthen dish, with a knife and fork,
when, although the fowl was somewhat tough, it was greatly relished.
The dinner hour was one o’clock.

Taua, according to the universal opinion of the squadron, did not
improve upon a closer acquaintance. His intrusive and greedy dis-
position, not to mention his fondness for the bottle, rendered him daily
a less welcome visiter than at first. I must, however, do him the
justice to say, that if he were wanting in other traits of character that
ought to distinguish a chief, he did the honours of his house admirably,
and that he must be seen in the capacity of a host, if a favourable
opinion is to be formed of his character.

On the invitation of the Rev. Mr. Wilson, I visited him at the
mission-house, and was kindly received. This gentleman is seventy-
two years of age, and is the oldest missionary on the island. In spite
of his advanced age, he still performs all the duties of his cure. The
church and the parsonage are both frame houses. The former, which
is neatly built, is capable of containing a large congregation. The
Sabbath occurred on Saturday, by our reckoning, and all labour was
suspended. I thought the attendance on worship small, compared with
what I had been led to anticipate. There were less than two hundred
persons present, and they did not appear to be as attentive as they had
been represented. The women were more numerous than the other
sex, and were dressed in a most unbecoming manner. They wore
high flaring chip bonnets of their own manufacture, loose gay-coloured
silk frocks, with showy kerchiefs tied around their necks. Nothing
can appear more ouwtré than they do in these habiliments, and I was at
a loss to conceive how they could, in particular, have been induced to
adopt a covering for the head, which affords no protection from the
sun, and is in consequence so ill-adapted to the climate.

On Sunday, 15th September, as many of the officers and crews as
could be spared from the vessels, attended divine service in the Mission
church. Our chaplain performed the service, with the aid of the Rev.
Mr. Pratt. This exercise attracted great crowds of the natives, of
whom an unusual number had collected at Matavai. They flock,
on the arrival of vessels, and particularly of ships of war, to the
port in which they lie, partly from curiosity and a desire of amuse-
ment, but more from a hope of gain. A Tahitian changes his residence
without difficulty or inconvenience ; food is every where to be had in
abundance, and lodgings never enter into his calculation. While the

8 TAHITI.

squadron was at Matavai Bay, the number of those who appeared to
inhabit its shores would have given a very erroneous estimate of the
‘usual population. They were assembled from every part of the island,
and the right of occupying each spare nook in the houses of the per-
manent settlers, seems to be universally admitted. When this resource
fails, they are to be seen beneath trees, or upon the beach, within a
few feet of the water’s edge, sleeping as soundly, although without any
covering, as if they were beneath their own roofs.

Saturday is a holiday, and on it the children may be seen engaged
in innocent plays and amusements, among which is swinging with a
single rope from a tall cocoa-nut tree. This pastime is picturesque,
and in good keeping with the landscape.

This people exhibits great curiosity, but does not manifest it by
intrusive inquisitiveness. In our whole intercourse with them, we
did not hear of a single act of theft, although there were innumerable
opportunities for its commission, without the possibility of immediate
detection. They seemed always in a good humour, gay, happy, and
cheerful; nor did I witness a single quarrel among all the crowds that

TAHITI. 8)

were assembled at Point Venus, during our stay. They are, however,
inveterate beggars.

At the invitation of Mr. Pritchard, I visited the school under his
direction at Papieti. This gentleman was, a few years since, a
missionary, but now holds the station of Her Britannic Majesty’s
Consul. He has not, however, abandoned all his missionary duties.
We were also invited to visit the school at Matavai Bay, under the
direction of the Rev. Mr. Wilson. There was so much similarity in
the two schools, that I shall content myself with a description of the
former, and a circumstance or two that occurred at the latter.

The school at Papieti is held in the church, a large frame building,
much like a New England meeting-house. It has numerous windows,
a large gallery, and pews capable of containing a great number of
people. All who were present were well dressed, and the assemblage,
except from the colour of their skins, could have been, with difficulty,
distinguished from a Sunday school in the United States.

The exercises were opened with prayer. The children then sang the
A BC song, and went through the a-b ab, at the word of command
from Mr. Pritchard. To this succeeded an examination of the larger
children, and an exhibition of some of their performances. The number
of scholars was from three hundred and fifty to four hundred, between
eight and sixteen years of age. A large proportion of them read, sang,
and wrote on a slate, manifesting a fair proficiency in each, and
answered intelligently the questions that were put to them.

To test the character of the instruction given in this school, I felt
desirous of putting some questions on subjects foreign to the ordinary
routine, and particularly in relation to natural phenomena. For this
purpose I called the attention of the scholars to the eclipse of the sun
which had happened a few days before. This was received with a
variety of expression of countenance by different scholars, but among
them I could only remark stupid wonder, indifference, or listlessness
which showed too clearly that no attempt had been made to awaken
their attention to such subjects.

When the examination was concluded, I made a trifling present to
the native teachers in the name of the American government, and
desired Mr. Pritchard to express the satisfaction it had given myself
and officers to witness the exhibition of a progress, which in the elemen-
tary branches of education had exceeded our expectations; and to state
that 1 was assured it would be gratifying to our country to hear
of their improvement. I concluded by expressing my hope that
they would persevere in their attention to the missionaries, who

VOL. II. 4

10 TAHITI.

were so zealously end aroun, to instruct them in knowledge and_
religion.

This short address was immediately answered by Paofai, a chief
who holds the office of chief judge, and who is generally considered as
the ablest and most clear-headed man in the nation. His reply was
delivered in an earnest and animated manner, and contained many
expressions of gratitude for the attention and kindness shown them by
the people of the United States.

The exhibition of the schools did not surprise me so much as the fact
that few natives are to be met with who cannot both read and write.
This was not confined to the younger part of the population, but was
true even of those advanced in years. I also learned that they had
schools among themselves, and that parents were well aware of the
advantages attendant on sending their children to them. In these
schools great pains are taken to inculcate cleanly and industrious
habits, with sound moral and religious principles.

The hours of attendance are confined to the forenoon, and during
these the schools are crowded. The parents are unwilling that their
children should be confined for a longer time.

Our consul, Mr. Blackler, had made complaints to me, as soon as I
arrived, of the conduct of the queen and government, and asked my
interference. ‘The charges consisted in the following items:

1. The seizure of an American whale-boat and ill treatment of the
crew.

2. That fines had been unjustly imposed on American seamen.

3. The refusal to apprehend deserters from American ships, or to
provide a place for their safe keeping.

4. The evasion of a promise to provide a place for the transaction
of the consular business.

In consequence of these complaints, I had immediately a
that a council of the chiefs might be held, and the 17th September
was appointed for the purpose. On this day I ordered all the officers
that could be spared from the vessels to attend. Captain Hudson and
myself set out at an early hour, accompanied by several boats. We
passed down through the reefs, and reached Papieti at ten o’clock,
where we were joined by our consul, and in his company proceeded
to the building which has been mentioned as the scene of the exhibition
of the schools. Here we were received by Mr. Pritchard, who
politely showed us to the seats we were to occupy. He then called
the names of the chiefs, and each answering in his turn, took his seat
on the side of the building opposite to us.

GAD E 11

The meeting being ready for business, I read from a paper a list of
the grievances complained of. This was translated sentence by
sentence by a Mr. Darling. When I had finished, Paofai again
appeared to make a reply. He began by apologizing for the absence
ef the queen, caused by her approaching confinement, and then
requested a copy of the paper which had been read, in order that it
might be considered and answered. He stated that it included too
many points to be decided upon and answered at once, but promised
that the matter should be examined, and the business concluded as
speedily as possible.

PAOFAI,

This request was so reasonable that I at once assented to it. I
thought the proposed mode far better, and it was more agreeable to
me than a public discussion would have been, in which confusion
could hardly be avoided. I therefore broke up the meeting, after
stating that I should look for a satisfactory reply on my coming in the
Vincennes to Papieti.

Many of the chiefs seemed disposed to act correctly and do justice,
at least they repeatedly expressed their good intentions. It was also
evident to me, that their minds were greatly relieved by the mode-
ration of the demands, for they had feared that these were to be of
some extraordinary kind, and might perhaps include a claim for
heavy damages. Indeed, since the large contribution levied on this
island by the French, the government has entertained apprehensions,
and dreads the arrival of men-of-war. These fears are taken advan-
tage of by many ill-disposed residents, who omit no opportunity to

12 TAHITI.

practise upon their alarms, and to threaten them with foreign inter-.
ference.

Much complaint has been made of the influence which the mission-
aries, and Mr. Pritchard in particular, exercise over the government
of Tahiti. They have, unquestionably, great influence; but I am
satisfied that they are justly entitled to it. Indeed I cannot but
consider it as part of their duty, nay, the great object of their mission,
to acquire and exercise a salutary control over their converts, both of
high and low degree. My own observations satisfied me that this
control is exerted solely for the purpose of fulfilling the laudable object
for which they were sent. It is possible that their views of the proper
method of instructing an ignorant people are not at all times, or in
every respect, the most enlightened; but no one can with propriety
question their pious zeal, or the honesty of their intentions. We may
perhaps lament their intolerance towards other sects, but no one can
visit the island without perceiving on every side the most positive
evidence of the great benefits they have already bestowed, and are
daily conferring upon the inhabitants.

All this good has been done in'the face of many and great difficulties.
The most serious of these is the evil influence of a large portion of the
other foreign residents. Although among these are some who are truly
respectable, the majority is made up of runaways from the English
convict settlements, and deserters from vessels. ‘These men, the out-
casts and refuse of every maritime nation, are addicted to every
description of vice, and would be a pest even in a civilized community.
It may easily be conceived what an injurious influence such a band of
vagabonds, without trade or occupation by which they can support
themselves, guilty of every species of profanity and crime, must exert
upon the morals of the natives, and what a barrier they must oppose
to their improvement in morals and religion.

Tahiti, when first visited, was proverbial for its licentiousness, and
it would be asking too much, to require that after so short an enjoy-
ment of the means of instruction, and in the face of such obstacles, its
inhabitants should as a body have become patterns of good morals.
Licentiousness does still exist among them, but the foreign residents
and visiters are ina great degree the cause of its continuance, and an
unbridled intercourse with them serves to perpetuate it. Severe laws
have been enacted, but they cannot be put in force in cases where one
of the parties is a foreigner. I see no reason, however, why this
island should be pointed out as conspicuous for licentiousness. When
compared with many parts of the world that arrogate a superior
civilization, it appears almost in an advantageous light. Vice, at any

TAHITI. 13

rate, does not stalk abroad in the open day, as it did in some places
we had lately visited upon the American continent. It would be unfair
to judge of these natives, before they had received instruction, by our
rules of propriety; and now many of those who bear testimony to the
laxity of their morals, visit their shores for the very purpose of enticing
them into guilt, and of rioting without fear or hindrance in debauchery.
Coming with such intentions, and finding themselves checked by the
influence of the missionaries, they rail against them because they have
put an end to the obscene dances and games of the natives, and pro-
cured the enactment of laws forbidding illicit intercourse.

The missionaries are far from overrating their own success in
effecting an improvement in morals, and inculcating the obligations of
religion. So far from this, I found that they generally complained that
sincere piety was rarely to be found among the natives. However
this may be, the external signs of moral and religious improvement
are conspicuous. Many of the natives are scrupulous in their attention
to Christian duties, and members in communion of the church. All
are strict observers of the Sabbath; indeed, nowhere is its institution
more religiously attended to than in those Polynesian islands which
are under missionary influence. On that day no canoe is launched
upon the waters, and no person is seen abroad except while on his
way to or return from church. When thus seen, they are neatly and
decently clothed, although in very bad taste. At church they form a
respectable-looking congregation, and listen with attention to the
preacher.

The success of the missionaries in introducing this strict observance
of a Sabbath is ascribed by themselves in a great degree to its analogy
to the taboo-days of heathen times, and the continuance of its sanctity
is now insured by the penalties which await an infraction of it. The
punishment for Sabbath-breaking consists in the offender being com-
pelled to make a certain number of fathoms of road, and upon a
repetition of the offence, the number of fathoms is much increased.

I cannot pass without notice the untiring efforts of many of the
foreign residents to disparage the missionaries and vilify the natives.
They endeavour on all occasions to prepossess the minds of visiters
against both. These efforts, however, generally fail of success; for
no reflecting mind can fail to perceive how devoid they are of any
foundation, nor avoid noticing the baneful effects these residents are
themselves producing, by inculcating principles for which many of
them have been compelled to fly their own countries, or teaching the
practice of crimes from whose penalty they have made their escape.

There are about a hundred characters of this description on the
B

14 TAHITI.

island, and to give a better idea of them I shall divide them into three
classes.

The first class comprises merchants, if they can be so called. The
sole object of these is to make money. I regret to say that, as far as
my observation went, this purpose is not accomplished without injury
to the welfare of the natives. This class endeavours to place both the
persons who compose it and the premises they occupy beyond the
reach of the local laws.

The second class is composed of the children born upon the island
of missionary parents. Of these many seem to have forgotten utterly
the principles instilled into them in their infancy.

The third class is much the most numerous, and those I include in
it appear destitute of all moral or religious principle. They stand out
openly and boldly in defiance of all law and decency. Among them
continual complaints are to be heard against the missionaries, the
government, and the people. On being asked to state the ground of
their complaints, most of them fail in presenting any other charges
than that the missionaries are endeavouring to make the natives too
good; that they deprive them of their innocent luxury of intoxicating
liquors; that they interdict promiscuous intercourse, and have ruined
the trade of the island by preventing the women from going on board
ship; that they have interfered with their amusements by abolishing
lascivious dances and songs, and requiring from them instead, prayers
and hymns; that they have introduced too strict an observance of a
Sabbath, translated the Scriptures, and taught the natives to read
them. Others argue seriously, that this mild and amiable people had
no need of instruction in divine revelation; that they would have been
much happier had they been left to follow their own inclinations ; and
that they have been rendered miserable by being taught their respon-
sibility as accountable beings.

The missionaries, HowereE: receive countenance aia support from a
more respectable portion of the foreign residents. These, although
they do not approve of the whole of the course the missionaries have
pursued, are united in upholding the moral and religious principles
which they endeavour to inculcate.

Although much has been done for the improvement of the natives,
still it appears evident that much more might have been done if the
missionaries had not confined themselves so exclusively to teaching
from the Scriptures. The natives, by all accounts, are extremely fond
of story-telling, and marvellous tales of their ancestors and ancient
gods, are even now a source of amusement. The missionaries, as ]
am told, possess much information in relation to the history and

TAHITI. 15.

mythology of the island, embodied in the superstitious tales still occa-
sionally current among its inhabitants. It is to be hoped that they
will preserve a record of these, before they are obliterated by their
exertions to destroy the ancient superstition. But they would have
succeeded sooner in eradicating the practice of reciting these legends,
had they provided a substitute in works of fiction, inculcating moral
and religious lessons, or teaching useful knowledge. So also, while
it was indispensable to put down those amusements which were the
means or incentives to debauchery, this measure ought to have been
accompanied by the introduction of innocent modes of recreation.
For want of the first resource, much time is now spent in unmeaning
gossip, and the necessity for the other is often shown in a listless
idleness.

No attempt has been made by the missionaries to introduce the
mechanic arts, or improvements in agriculture, yet it cannot be
doubted, that to have taught them even the simplest of these, would
have materially aided the progress of civilization, and reacted favour-
ably upon that of religion. The failure of a cotton manufactory, with
expensive machinery, which was erected on the island of Eimeo,
affords no argument against the probable success of less complex arts.
The natives were not prepared to pass at once from habits of desultory
exertion, to the regular and stated occupation of the mill. But the
spinning-wheel, the hand-loom, and the plough, would not have required
such a decided change, in the number of hours of Jabour, and would
have served as a preparation for more continuous industry. The two
former implements have at length been introduced by other hands, and
have already been adopted with eagerness by some of the natives.

The change of dress which has been introduced by the missionaries
and other foreigners, has, on the contrary, had an injurious effect on
the industry of this people. While they wore their native tapa, the
fabric, though of little value, gave employment to numbers of women;
and this change of dress, intended as an advance in civilization, has
had the effect of superseding employments which formerly engaged
their attention, and occupied their time. The idleness hence arising,
and the artificial wants thus created, have no little influence in perpe-
tuating licentiousness among the females, to whom foreign finery is a
great temptation. The European dress, at least as worn by them, is
neither as becoming, nor as well adapted to the climate as that which
it has almost superseded. Many of the missionaries now see these
things in their true light, and informed me that they were endeavouring
to pursue a more enlightened course.

Upon the whole, although the missionaries may be chargeable with

16 TAHITI

misjudging zeal, and have exhibited a want of practical knowledge of |
human nature in their efforts, and in the solution of the difficult
problem of bringing barbarians to civilization, they ought to receive
due credit for what they have actually accomplished. I am decidedly
of opinion, that in spite of all the drawbacks I have mentioned, as
much would not have been done by any other class of persons. It has
demanded a sense of religious duty, to enable them to persevere in a
constant devotion to the cause in which they have embarked, to enable
them to undergo the privations and trials to which they have been
subjected, while continually at the mercy of uncivilized men. No
desire of pecuniary. emolument has been evinced by them, nor are
they sustained by any expectation of temporal reward; and I can
testify, from personal observation, that their position in a worldly
sense, is not to be envied.

To judge of the amount of good they have accomplished, it is neces-
sary to turn back to the records of early voyages, and compare the
present with the former condition of these islanders. Now they are seen
enjoying peace, possessing a written instead of a mere oral language,
living under wholesome laws, and receiving the advantages of school
education and church discipline. In former times, we read of perpetual
intestine broils, of the worship of idols propitiated by human sacrifice,
of the depraved association of the Ariore, and its accompanying crime
of infanticide. In making this comparison, we cannot but acknowledge
that the persons who have effected these changes, are both Christians
and philanthropists, and that they have been reasonably successful in
implanting the principles of civilization.

As a proof of the value of their labours, my experience warrants me
in saying that the natives of Tahiti are honest, well-behaved, and
obliging; that no drunkenness or rioting is to be seen, except when
provoked by their white visiters and inmates, and that they are obe-
dient to the laws and to their rulers. That they should be compara-
tively indolent is natural, in a climate where the fruits of the earth
almost spontaneously supply the wants of nature, and where a mere
animal existence may be maintained without labour. No People are, in
truth, so independent of the aid even of their fellows as the Tahitians.
A native may in the morning be wholly destitute even of implements
wherewith to work, and before nightfall he may be found clothed,
lodged, and have all the necessaries of life around him in abundance.
These he derives from the cocoa-nut, the poorou (Hibiscus tiliaceus),
banana, bread-fruit, and bamboo. That he does not find it necessary
to call upon others for assistance, does not make him forget the duties
of hospitality, but it does produce a thoughtlessness about his own

TAHITI 17

wants, and takes away that incitement to labour, which is so powerful
an aid in the promotion of civilization. Still, 1 am satisfied that the
Tahitians do not avoid labour, when they can work with profit to them-
selves. Those who were employed on board the squadron, where their
pay was liberal and regular, performed their tasks faithfully and well;
and they bear the same character for fidelity in the whale-ships, on
board of which they are much employed. Some of them are now
engaged in the culture of the sugar-cane; and a single native planta-
tion was mentioned to me, of which the preceding year’s crop had
amounted to five tons. Coffee has also been planted, and succeeds
remarkably well. Much more, too, would have been done in these
productions had their industry been encouraged by the missionaries, as
a body; but, while some of them have done their utmost to stimulate
the natives to exertion, others have altogether discountenanced any
attempts to introduce new articles of culture.

One of the most important consequences of the introduction of civili-
zation has been the establishment of a settled constitution. This was
framed by the missionaries in 1823, upon the model of that of England,
and was revised in 1826. The royal authority includes the power of
the veto, the nomination of the supreme judges, and of all officers con-
nected with the person of the sovereign. The crown is hereditary,
descending either to males or females. The legislative power is lodged
in an assembly, composed of two members from each district, chosen
triennially by the people. This assembly is convened annually for the
purpose of remodelling existing laws, or enacting new ones. It has
also semi-annual meetings, and may be convened more frequently, if
necessary, for the discussion of questions of importance. All enact-
ments of the legislature, before they become laws, are laid before the
queen for her approbation and signature. When this is affixed, they
are carried into effect by the judges and the officers of the crown.
Should she refuse her signature, they are revised and remodified, or
laid aside altogether.

The island is divided into seven districts, each of which has an
inferior court for the trial of ordinary cases. This consists of two
judges, who are not unfrequently also members of the legislature. The
decision of these courts must be founded upon evidence, and appeal lies
to the supreme tribunal.

This supreme court is composed of seven judges, two of whom are
residents of the island of Eimeo. The judges are also executive
officers, and nearly all are chiefs. This double capacity gives them
great influence, and their power is sufficient to supply, in part, the

VOL. Il. B2 3

18 TAHITI.

queen’s want of energy, but at the same time serves as a check against ©
any encroachment upon the prerogatives of the sovereign.

The powers of this court even extend to an impeachment of the
royal ruler.

The mode of trial, both of civil and criminal cases, is by a jury, and
free argument is allowed. The testimony is not given upon oath, but
the penalty for giving false evidence is severe. The jury is composed
of six persons; and every one has the right of being tried by his peers.

The reigning queen is named Aimata, but is more usually known as
Pomare IV. She is the sister of the late king, and grand-daughter to
that Pomare J. who acquired the sovereignty of Tahiti, soon after its
discovery. She is now (1839) about twenty-seven years of age, and
has been twice married: the first time to Pomare, a young chief of
Tahaa, from whom she was divorced; the second, to a young chief
of the island of Huaheine, by whom she has one son, the heir of the
throne. The general appellation he goes by is Pomare tawe, equiva-
lent to king-consort. :

Next in rank to the queen, is her aunt, Ariapaca, the eldest sister of
her mother, and at one time queen-regent. She still possesses great
influence.

In case of failure of the queen’s posterity, the next heirs to the
throne are the princesses Ninito and Taii, who are the queen’s cousins,
and nieces to Pomare II.

Uata, the godfather of the queen, although not a chief by birth, has
from this connexion obtained great influence in the queen’s councils,
and may be termed prime minister.

The seven judges of the supreme tribunal are nominated by the
queen, but the nomination must be confirmed by the legislature. Those
who at present hold the office are all large landholders, and men of the
highest character and intelligence to be found in the population. They
are in fact the rulers of the kingdom. Five of them, viz.: Paofai,
Mare, Utami, Taati, and Tanoni, reside on the island of Tahiti; the
other two, Ruetone and Mahine, at Eimeo.

In spite of the small extent of the kingdom, it is not without sub-
jects to distract its councils. ‘There are two distinct parties: the one
led by the queen and the missionaries; the other, by some of the
chiefs. The leaders of the latter are Paofai, Hitoti, and Taua, who
are descended from the ancient kings dethroned by Pomare I. These
chiefs have large domains, and many of the raatiras (landholders) take
part with them. They are, besides, distinguished by qualities which
give them consideration among the islanders. Paofai, who has more

TAHITI. 19

than once been spoken of, holds the office of chief judge, and is con-
sidered as the best statesman on the island. Hitoti is distinguished for a
dignity, uprightness, and good sense, which command universal respect.
Taua possesses a high reputation as a brave and skilful warrior.

Of these three leaders, Hitoti alone is wholly free from reproach.
Paofai is accused of covetousness, and a propensity to intrigue; and
Taua, of a fondness for intoxicating drinks.

The queen, however, contrives to rule in all matters that rightfully
belong to her; and, by the aid of the missionaries, maintains her
ground against this strong opposition, although its leaders have gene-
rally the power to determine the course of policy to be pursued, and
entire authority over the execution of the laws. They are much
opposed to’ foreigners, and have made several attempts to have them
banished from the island. They are supposed to entertain the design
of setting aside the queen, on account of her irregular behaviour and
vices; but this plan is not likely to succeed, because of the personal
popularity she enjoys, and the number of adherents she possesses
among the people. In conformity with such a design, these chiefs are
said to be continually watching for opportunities to increase their own
power and diminish the royal authority. Among the occasions of
which they endeavoured to avail themselves, was the celebrated affair
of the Roman Catholic priests, the circumstances of which, as nearly
as I could learn from the statements of both parties, are as follows:

Two priests of this denomination, who had been stationed at the
Manga Reva, or Gambier Group, landed on the southern side of the
island, and travelled towards Papieti, preaching the doctrines of their
church. They, however, found none willing to listen, and it is said,
that no native would receive them into his house. On their arrival at
Papieti, however, Paofai, Hitoti, and some other chiefs, gave them
countenance, and they were hospitably received by Mr. Morenhout,
the acting American consul, who, however, did not lodge them under
his own roof, but in an adjacent building. The people, however,
excited by the preaching of the English missionaries, broke into the
building, and compelled the priests to embark on board a small vessel,
which carried them to Uea, or Wallis Island, about two thousand
miles to the west of Tahiti.

In considering this question calmly, and stripping it of the exagge-
rations with which both parties have loaded it, it is difficult to say
which was most in the wrong. The Protestant religion was established
by law upon the island, to the exclusion of all others, and this the
priests well knew; nor can any but zealots, who think that those whom
they style heretics are worse than infidels, excuse their intrusion upon

20 TAHITL

missionary ground already fully and successfully occupied. On the
other hand, their precipitate expulsion, under circumstances of great
hardship, exhibited an unchristian spirit, for which the resident mis-
sionaries may justly be held responsible, as they unquestionably had it
in their power to prevent any positive ill treatment on the part of the
natives.

The consequences of this expulsion of the priests remain to be
related. In due course of time the French frigate Venus, commanded
by M. Du Petit Thouars, arrived at the island, and anchored in the
harbour of Papieti. The commander immediately demanded satisfac-
tion for the outrage committed on his countrymen the priests, and
threatened that unless two thousand dollars were paid him within
twenty-four hours, he would fire upon and burn the town of Papieti.
The queen had no money, and was inclined, as I was told, to let the
French do their worst; but as in this case the loss would have fallen
wholly on the foreign residents, the required sum was collected from
them by Mr. Pritchard, and paid to M. Du Petit Thouars. <A treaty
was also forced upon the government, allowing all Frenchmen to visit
the island freely, to erect churches, and to practise their religion.
Thus the local laws were abrogated under the threats of an irresistible
force, and the national independence virtually surrendered.

This was a high-handed measure on the part of the French com-
mander, and one that hardly admits of justification, particularly the
demand for money; for he had himself been received with great
hospitality, and not long before another of his sovereign’s frigates, the
Artemise, (I think), had been saved from wreck by the unrecompensed
exertions of the Tahitians. The amount demanded also was at least
four times as great as the pecuniary damage incurred by the priests
would be reasonably valued at. The French commander, therefore,
appears, in thus bullying a defenceless people into the payment of an
exorbitant indemnity, and into a relinquishment of the right of admitting
or excluding foreigners and strange religious creeds, by municipal
regulation, in a light far from advantageous.

We have seen that Paofai and his party at first countenanced the
French priests. This they no doubt did in the hope of introducing an
influence which might be opposed to that of the English missionaries.
Subsequently to these transactions, and after an attempt by two
foreigners to murder Mrs. Morenhout, they have endeavoured to obtain
the passage of a law for the expulsion of all foreigners whatsoever.

The aversion to the permanent residence of foreigners is general,
and although there is no law forbidding the sale of land to them, yet
no offers have hitherto been found sufficient to induce the chiefs to

TAHITI. 21

dispose of any portion of their soil. ‘They find in its possession an —
acknowledged right to rank and respectability, and it spontaneously
yields them and their followers the means of subsistence. So powerful
is this repugnance to the admission of foreigners to any of the privileges
arising from a possession of land, that those who are attempting to
cultivate sugar, &c., hold their leases by so uncertain a tenure as to
prevent their making any permanent improvement.

The canoes at Tahiti show an evident improvement on those of the
Disappointment Islanders; the bottom is constructed of one piece.
They use an out-rigger, and have a projection over the stern for land-
ing. The paddle is also different.

COMMON TAHITIAN CANOE.

The fertile portion of the island of Tahiti lies in the valleys, which
are of small extent, and in the plain which extends from the sea-shore
to the spurs of the mountains. These produce tropical plants in great
abundance and luxuriance, and are probably not exceeded in fertility
by any portion of the earth’s surface. The climate of this region is
warm but not enervating, and is well adapted for the enjoyment of all
the pleasures of-life. To this climate the habits and pursuits of the
natives are well adapted, or rather they are its necessary results.
Their disposition leads them to the quiet enjoyment of the beautiful
scenes around them. Their cottages are to be found in retired and
lovely spots, and are usually surrounded by neatly-fenced enclosures.
In these, which are often of considerable extent, are to be seen grow-
ing the bread-fruit, vi-apple, and orange, and sometimes extensive
groves of tall cocoa-nut trees. In one corner are the patches of taro
and sweet-potatoes.

The cottages are of an oval form, usually about fifty or sixty feet
in length, and twenty in breadth. The walls are formed of bamboos
set in the ground, with intervals of about an inch between them, for
the admission of light and air. To the top of these a plate-piece of
the hibiscus, a light and strong wood, is lashed with sinnet. From
this the rafters rise on all sides, and meet in a ridge, which is about
half the length of the building. The rafters touch each other, and are
covered with small mats made of the pandanus-leaf. These are closely
fitted together, and lapped over each other, forming an impervious and
_ durable roof. The floor is the natural earth; there are no partitions,

99 TAHITI.

but tapa or matting is employed as an occasional screen. A building -
of this description may be erected for about fifty dollars.

aL iar aa ai TT ani i Hh gg
EC ERT ee PASAT HAN i LEA
OL a } i jp ae my mA USANA a

Kectliza SOS art yi

—_ 3 tan ae ik Se is
Sh he NES
Bc

NATIVE HOUSE, TAHITI.

The Tahitians use neither tables nor chairs. Their bedsteads are
formed of a framework of cane, raised a short distance from the
ground, upon which a few mats are laid. A pillow stuffed with
aromatic herbs is in general use among the better class.

The natives are generally to be found in their houses, in a circle,
chatting, reading, and singing, or smoking, unless they be, as is often
the case, asleep. They are seldom to be seen engaged in manual
labour, except on the sides of the ‘streams where they are employed in
washing, or at the residences of the chiefs.

I hesitate to speak of the females of this island, for I differ from all
who have gone before me in relation to their vaunted beauty. I did
not see among them a single woman whom I could call handsome.
They have, indeed, a soft sleepiness about the eyes, which may be
fascinating to some, but I should rather ascribe the celebrity their
charms have obtained among navigators, to their cheerfulness and
gaiety. Their figures are bad, and the greater part of them are
parrot-toed. They are exceedingly prone to prattling, or may rather
be said to have a tattling disposition, for they cannot keep even their
own secrets.

This want of reserve is not confined to the women: the men are
also incapable of keeping a secret. A crime is divulged almost as
soon as committed, and for a small reward they will become informers
against their nearest relatives and friends.

I have spoken of the incongruous character of the dress of the
females. Among the men this is not as strongly marked as it is said
formerly to have been, and they are no longer content with cast-off
clothing. Those who can obtain it are dressed in sailors’ garb. Others
wear around their bodies, a wrapper called pareu, which extends to
the calf of the leg. This is now usually made of blue cotton cloth,
and with it some wear a cotton shirt of gaudy colours. Others

TAHITI. 93

luxuriate in a pair of duck trousers, and carry the pareu upon their
shoulders.

The appearance of the dress of the women while at church, has
already been spoken of. On ordinary occasions, they wear the pareu
alone, but when dressed, put over it a loose dress, resembling a
night-gown, buttoned at the wrists, and confined in no other place.
Relics of their ancient dress may still occasionally be seen in wreaths
of flowers around the head, and in the hair. The haw is a sort of
rim made of pandanus, and when it has flowers beneath, it gives

TAHITIAN GIRL, WITH THE HAU.

a pleasing and rural look to the women, to whom it also affords a
convenient and easily-procured protection from the sun. The wreaths
are usually composed of the Cape Jasmine and Rosa Sinensis, the
latter of which is often stuck through the lobes of their ears, and in
their glossy black hair.

The natives of both sexes seem passionately fond of flowers, but
the use of these in dress has been discouraged by their teachers, who
have taught them that such vanities are unbecoming to Christians.
J am at a loss to understand why so innocent a pleasure should not
have been encouraged rather than discountenanced. In conformity
with this opinion, the absence of flowers around the missionaries’
dwellings is universal, and cannot fail to be remarked in a climate
where the plants most admired in their own country, as exotics, are of
almost spontaneous growth.

Cooking and eating occupy but a small portion of their time. The
latter indeed is performed with more of the air of a business which
requires despatch, than any thing else they do. Their food consists
principally of bread-fruit, taro, banana, vi-apple (Spondias), oranges,

94 TAHITI.

cocoa-nuts, sugar-cane, fowls, and fish. They eat no salt, but employ
instead of it a sort of sop, made of sea-water, cocoa-nut milk, and the
root of the tii Their mode of eating is somewhat disagreeable, for
the bread-fruit or taro is dipped in the sop, and then sucked into the
mouth with a smacking sound, that may be heard at some distance. The
vessel most commonly used is a cocoa-nut shell. The children are fed
upon poe, which is made of bread-fruit and taro, pounded together with
a little sugar. The child is laid on its back, and is crammed with
balls of poe of the size of a walnut, at which it shows its delight by
flapping its arms, kicking, and chirping like a young bird.

At Tahiti the mode of carrying burdens is the same as we found
prevailing throughout Polynesia; the wood-cut will best explain it.

MALE COSTUME, TAHITI.

The men of Tahiti care little about music, but the women appear to
be passionately fond of it, and have very correct ears. Many of them
have rich contralto voices, and can descend to very low notes, while
others do not differ in this respect from the females of our own country °
occasionally one may be found that can sound exceedingly clear and
very high notes. Their voices accord well with each other, and a
party of four or five will make excellent harmony.

If they ever had any native music, it has long been forgotten, and no
other singing is now heard but hymns and sailors’ songs; you observe,

TAHITI. 25

however, a peculiar nasal sound, particularly in those who indulge in
the latter class of singing.

Social amusements are prohibited by severe penalties, although the
people are evidently fond of them: I neither saw nor heard myself of
any dancing or theatrical amusements during our stay. Some of the
officers, however, persuaded a few females to exhibit a dance, upon the
strict assurance that they should not be informed against. Mats were
spread upon the floor, on which two of the girls stood up to dance,
while the others sat cross-legged around. One of the latter began by
uttering a few words of no delicate import, in reply to which all the
others made a sort of grunt, with the mouth shut. To this succeeds
another set of sounds uttered with the mouth open.

Mouth shut. Mouth open,
! fuszes? cif: Ereah
ot #—|— ae a ee mY ON rate tf

tral esau eens wer a [eres ee
a] arma | Bi

PR ETE ES TT PRETTY eT
~@ gS r
umh umh umh ha ha ha

To this all keep time, by drawing up the legs, thrusting out the arms,
and making all sorts of contortions. In the meantime the two dancers
proceed, twisting their bodies into all kinds of lascivious postures.
Little can be said for the gracefulness of these motions, although many
have described them as such. The whole finishes by a simultaneous
clapping of the hands.

The party that was despatched for the purpose of making an attempt
to reach the top of Orohena, consisted of fifteen persons, including four
natives as guides, and an American of the name of Lewis Sacket, as
interpreter. This man was from the State of New York, and was
admirably qualified for his duties.

By the advice of the Rev. Mr. Wilson, the party took the route
across the island which follows the Pappino valley. The distance on
this line, to Lake Waiherea, is no more than twenty-five miles, while
by that which follows the shores, it is fifty miles before the point at
which the ascent begins is reached. None of the guides were
acquainted with this route, and it was therefore necessary to find a
person who was. For this purpose they in the first place proceeded
towards the eastward from Matavai, for about five miles, to the mouth
of the river Pappino, which they reached about 2 rp. m. Here. they
found a guide, and were informed that the stream was much swollen:
they however determined to go forward, and were accompanied by a
troop of boys and girls with flowers. Before they had proceeded far,
they reached a place where it was necessary to ford the stream, which
they found difficult on account of the rapidity, although the water was

VOL. II. Cc 4

2€ TAHITI

only three feet deep. Other fords of the same description occurred
every few rods, until they at last reached one in which the water
reached to their necks. This was of course dangerous to those who
could not swim, but all crossed in safety. A young native, as if in
derision of the difficulty which they appeared to experience, and of
their effeminate bringing up, dashed into the flood, and was seen
plunging down the rapids in sport, and evidently with great enjoy-
ment, although frequently wholly immersed in the foam. Our gentlemen
had now an opportunity of comparing their own awkwardness and
want of ease in the new position in which they were placed, with the
agility and freedom of motion exhibited by the natives.

The whole afternoon was thus spent in travelling about three miles,
at the end of which they reached some huts, in which they passed the
night comfortably. ‘These huts they were informed had been erected
by natives, who wished to enjoy a carouse of ava, far from the notice of
the judges, and free from the intrusion of their spies. Here they were
able to indulge in their old habits of debauchery, which not unfre-
quently ended in riot and bloodshed.

In the morning, after three hours’ travelling, during which they
frequently crossed the stream, they reached a place where a branch
of it came in from the southwest. Some natives assured them that by
taking this route they might reach the top of Pitohiti, and stated that
this had been done during the last war by some natives, who occupied
it as a place of refuge. In support of this statement, they mentioned
that these refugees had found the birds so tame that they might be
taken by hand. This circumstance, which, from its apparent incredi-
bility, might seem to disprove the statement, is in fact almost positive
evidence of its truth, when compared with what we had seen of the
birds in uninhabited islands, where their habits would naturally cor-
respond to those secluded in the mountain solitudes of Tahiti.

Here they learned that it would be impracticable to accomplish both
objects of their mission within the time for which they were furnished
with provisions. It was therefore resolved to divide the party into two
detachments, one of which should ,proceed towards the lake, and the
other endeavour to ascend the mountain.

It was in this place that the last battle was fought between the
Christian and heathen parties. Paura, their guide, pointed out all the
places where any remarkable incidents of the conflict had occurred.
He seemed to take particular pleasure in drawing the attention of the
party to two places. In one of these a captain had his head beaten to
pieces, and the other was a precipice, several hundred feet in height,
over which the defeated party had been driven and dashed to pieces.

TAHITI. 2 pei

The detachment for the lake pursued its route, and before dark
reached the solitary residence of a native family, called Waiipi, where
they were hospitably received, and lodged in a building used as a
family chapel. This dwelling is situated in a romantic gorge at the
point of a mountain, and its existence appears to have been unknown
to the white residents of the coast.

The next day this detachment proceeded up the bed of the torrent,
which was even more swollen than before. They were now sur-
rounded with the wild banana or fahie (Musa rubra), having its
upright spikes loaded with its beautiful fruit. Besides these, there
were many tree-ferns from forty to fifty feet high. Most of the trees
were covered with parasitic plants, which grow with great luxuriance.
Leaving the bed of the torrent, they soon reached the dividing ridge,
which from observations with the sympiesometer, is twenty-seven
hundred feet above the sea. The summit of this ridge was only a few
paces in width, and was covered with groves of fahies, clinging, and
as it were bound by numerous vines, to the rock. In these respects,
the surrounding peaks closely resemble it.

The view from the point of the ridge which they had reached, is
magnificent. The lake lay almost beneath them, at a depth of about
one thousand feet, surrounded on all sides by perpendicular cliffs, and
appearing as if inaccessible, while numerous streams rushed in silvery
foam down the rocks; and the lake itself seemed diminished in size
by the vastness of the precipices which enclose it.

In spite of the steepness of the cliffs, the descent to the lake was
accomplished without accident, by scrambling down the bed of a
small stream, although they were compelled to stop from time to time,
resting upon their staves, or clinging to the shrubs and roots, while
the stones they had set in motion rushed onwards, accumulating others
in their course, until the united mass equalled an avalanche.

When they reached the edge of the lake, their guides constructed a
hut, in which they passed the night. The next day Lieutenant Em-
mons made a survey of the lake, and sounded its depth from a raft.
It was found to be half a mile in length, a third of a mile in breadth,
and in shape nearly oval. The depth in the middle was ninety-six
feet, whence it gradually decreases to the edge. It had rained the
whole of the preceding night, and the lake was observed to rise about
five feet in twenty hours. As far as could be discovered, it has no
outlet; but the natives assert that if a bread-fruit be thrown into the
water, it will make its appearance at a spring, which gushes from
the hill-side, about two miles north of Ooaigarra, and near the
sea. The height of the surface of the lake, measured by the sym-

28 ; TAHITI.

piesometer, is about one thousand seven hundred feet above the level
of the sea.

This detachment suffered not a little from the continual rains, bv
which they were kept constantly wet, and from being obliged to sleep
in their damp clothes. Their guides also became apprehensive that
they would experience much difficulty in their descent to the southern
side of the island, in consequence of the Ooaigarra, by whose valley
the only route lay, becoming so much swollen as to be dangerous.
It was, therefore, resolved to set out without delay; but before their
preparations ‘were completed, they were joined by the other detach-
ment.

This detachment having failed in reaching the summit of Orohena
had followed the route of the others. The guides who led the moun-
tain detachment were not found as skilful as they had pretended. On
the first day, after many unnecessary turnings, they stated that it
would be necessary to halt, as the hour was late, and there was a risk
of accident from falling, or from being crushed by stones, for which
their queen would be held responsible. They then, after much search-
ing, led the detachment to the shelter of a vast projecting boulder,
where the ground was dry, and afforded sufficient room to lodge fifty
persons. This place was estimated to be two thousand feet above
the sea, and commanded a splendid view over two rich valleys, beyond
which the sea was visible.

The fahies were in great abundance around them. This plant is
not found at levels lower than six hundred feet, and is in its greatest
perfection at the height of fifteen hundred feet. It is the vai of Cook,
and is thought to be the banana in its wild state. It, however, differs
much in the manner of its growth from the cultivated variety, for the
fruit grows upon an upright spike rising from a crown of leaves.
The fruit has the same shape as the banana, but is twice as large, and
is of a deep golden hue, with pulp of dark orange colour. It is desti-
tute of seeds, has a taste resembling that of the common banana, but
of a higher flavour, and the natives are very fond of it.

This shelter was reported to be the favourite retreat of wild hogs,
but the detachment was not disturbed by them, and passed the night
without any other disquiet but that arising from the possibility that the.
projecting boulder, under which they were lodged, might fall and crush
them. Old Paura made fire by rubbing a pointed stick in a groove
.formed in another, and by its blaze they, after a change of clothing,
found themselves very comfortable.

Mr. Dana, who was one of this detachment, was so unwell the next
morning as to be compelled to return, taking one of the guides with

TAHITI. 99

nim. The other gentlenien, Messrs. Peale, Pickering, Couthouy, and
Brackenridge, proceeded forwards; but they soon found that the guides
had no intention to lead them to the top of the mountain, during the
continuance of the heavy rains, but pursued a course so devious and
circuitous as to make it probable that they would lose the chance of
seeing either the mountain or the lake. They felt assured that the
ascent, under more favourable circumstances, would have been practi-
cable, but were satisfied that it would require more time than they
could spare. Notwithstanding their disappointment, they were com-
pelled at last to admit that the guides had acted wisely ; for during the
continuance of such rains as afterwards fell, the ascent of the mountain
would not only have been difficult, but extremely dangerous.

Compelled to abandon the attempt, they followed and overtook Mr.
Dana, and then turned up the valley. About noon, after having
crossed the stream so often that a fourth of the way might be said to
be by water, they reached the residence of the native family Waiipi.

Dr. Pickering is of opinion that this dwelling would be an excellent
station for a botanist. It has a rich field around it. and is, besides,
- within a short distance of the most elevated parts of the island.

They did not stop at this place, but proceeding forwards reached a
spot called by the natives Opua, where, in a. shelter of the same kind
as that which has been described as their previous bivouac, they spent
the night. The rain fell in torrents, and about midnight a violent
thundergust passed throngh the valley.

The next morning they went on towards the lake, and on reaching
the crest of the intervening ridge, the weather moderated, and gave
them an opportunity of enjoying the extensive prospect it commands.
Besides the laké at their feet, as seen by the other detachment, they
had a view of the cleft peak of Orohena, at the distance of about seven
miles, rising from five thousand to six thousand feet above the spot
where they good. Descending the steep sides of the basin of the lake,
they joined the other detachment about noon.

It has been stated that the lake had been observed to rise five feet.
It was now evident that it had reached as high a level as its waters
ever attain. Many plants (such as the Polygonums) which could not
live long under such circumstances, were found entirely submerged,
and the water had reached the woody plants on the shores, and
threatened their speedy destruction.

The proposed line of descent lay on the opposite side of the lake.
and the shores are so precipitous as to prevent walking around it. It
became necessary, therefore, to cross it upon a raft, which was a slow

process. ‘The natives swam over. After crossing the lake, the
C2

30) TAHITL

journey was continued, but it became necessary to stop before night,
in order to build a shelter and make a fire. The latter was a difficult
operation, where every thing was dripping with water. A hut was
soon built of boughs of the banana, and thatched with its leaves.
This, although not perfectly water-tight, served their purpose.

Their provisions fortunately held out. The natives after every meal
had been careful to gather up all the remnants of food, and to wrap
them in banana-leaves, by which all waste was avoided. They had
been disappointed in obtaining any game, or any fish from the lake,
both of which had been calculated upon. Mr. Peale saw nothing to
shoot except a few birds, which were limited to four or five species,
among which were swallows, tropic-birds, and small herons. In the
lake, nothing was seen, although it had been represented as full of
huge eels.

In the morning they rose early and began the descent, which was
slow and fatiguing. They found the Ooaigarra very rapid, and were
compelled to cross it frequently. In this their clothing was an encum-
brance, for it remained wet, and was consequently heavy, while the
natives, being naked, became dry in a few minutes after they emerged
from the water. This toilsome descent occupied about four hours.

The first inhabited place they reached was Mirapahé, where the
Ooaigarra runs into the sea. This is situated on the south side of the
island, near the isthmus by which the two peninsulas are united.

Most of the party were now exhausted by fatigue, so that it was
with some difficulty that any of them proceeded onwards to Ooari-
teeva, while a canoe was procured for those who were most overcome.
Here they were hospitably received by Teharo, the son of the governor,
Taati, who was himself absent, and took up their quarters at the house
of the latter. | |

It was Wednesday evening, (by the account of the island,) and the
natives were attending Jecture in the church. Some of our gentlemen
entered the congregation, and excited some sensation among the
younger part of the assembly; far less, however, than would be
evinced: should a Tahitian enter one of our churches. The service
was performed by a native, and consisted of praying, reading the
Bible, and singing. The old people appeared very devout, and it was
remarked that many of them were provided with spectacles, to enable
them to follow the reader in their own books.

The reading was performed in a low monotonous tone; and the
hymn was sung to an old English tune, with considerable taste, by
the female part of the congregation.

The assembly consisted of about one hundred persons, three-fourths

a

<3

time

i

Eira e) 1

vee

Y a ) 5 ; : SS Ses
ot wr ; TN (EN) Ae Hh) (a \
a : ONDA

al YG:
4 PAA
om 1h Wis) HE

ESN EZ ASE

TAHITI. 31

of whom were women, all dressed in the usual loose calico gown, with
large straw bonnets, and barefooted.

In spite of the devotion manifested within the church, the conduct
of the women after the service was concluded, left room for believing
that their former licentiousness was not entirely overcome by the
influence of their new religion.

When the service was over, nearly the whole congregation col-
lected, attracted by the sight of so large a number of white strangers.
According to their own account, the party, in their tattered and soiled
garments, was not in a condition to produce a very favourable
impression on these Polynesians. Still, it appeared from an address
made by their preacher, that he thought that in spite of their forlorn
condition, they possessed many things which the natives were likely
to covet, for he exhorted his flock to depart, telling them that some of
the strangers’ articles might be missing, and “then there would be
trouble.”

Here was witnessed a gorgeous sunset;—the clouds to the west
being lighted up as it were with burnished gold, while to the east, the
rain-clouds overhanging the mountains, exhibited a triple rainbow,
which at that hour was of course a complete semicircle.

In the morning they set out early, and walked to Papara, over the
‘“ Broom Road.” This is about twelve feet in width, and is well made,
being raised above the level of the ground, and having ditches on each
side. Over the streams which cross its direction, are bridges of loose
planks. |

Previous to reaching Papara, they came to a large mound on a
point of land near the sea-shore. This is the same that is described by
Cook. The steps of which he speaks are now almost obliterated, being
entire only at one of the corners, and there is little appearance of the
stones having been squared. It is now about forty feet high; the space
on the top is about twenty feet wide; the base is one hundred and forty
by fifty feet; and it is almost entirely overgrown with bushes.

An account of the object of this structure was given by the old chief
of Panawea. As he is one of the most intelligent chiefs, and his state-
ment differs in some particulars from that given by Cook, I think proper
to insert it. This chief stated that it had not been used as a place of
sepulture or as a morai, but was a sort of temple or high place on
which the image of one of their gods had stood; that formerly many
such mounds had existed upon the island, but that whenever war broke
out between two districts, each was desirous to obtain possession of
the other’s tehee or idol, for the loss of it was an acknowledgment that

39 TAHITI.

the god was less powerful than that of the other district ; that when one
district had been subjugated by another, and the two districts united
into one, the mound of the conquered party was destroyed. From this
account it would appear that these structures had served to mark the
boundaries of the several independent districts.

This account is rendered more probable from the fact that a morai
of quite a different character exists within a mile or two of this mound.
This is situated in the midst of a grove of large bread-fruit, poorou, and
aiti trees. It is, like the other morais, an enclosure of quadrangular
form, about sixty yards in height, and thirty in breadth. The wall is
about ten feet thick and four feet high. The lower part of it is com-
posed of five rows of round stones, of-uniform size, each about the size
of a man’s head, which the natives now call turtle-heads, arranged like
cannon-balls in an arsenal. On these lies a course of square stones.
The corners of the wall are strengthened by square blocks. There
was also a flat stone, placed upright, at each corner, and another in
the middle of the enclosure,—the last of which is called a preaching
stone.

The chief of Panawea likewise stated, that there used to be in each
of these morais a sort of platform, supported by stakes, on which were
laid the bodies of human victims, and the carcasses of hogs, on which
the tehee or god was supposed to feed: that the dead brought to the
place for interment were not buried immediately, but were placed in a
hut until all the flesh was consumed, after which the bones were care-
fully cleaned, and, with the exception of the skull, wrapped in many
folds of tapa, and deposited in the enclosure; that the skull was taken
home by the nearest relative, and kept as a talisman. He added, that
only the bones of chiefs were honoured in this way; while those of
lower rank were deposited on the outside of the enclosure.

Other accounts, however, state that these morais were never used
as ordinary places of burial, but that the bodies of enemies slain in
battle were brought to them, and consumed in a fire made on a thick
part of the wall.

The party saw an old man, who had his deposit of bread-fruit in one
of these morais. The bread-fruit in its crude state will keep only for a
short time; but if buried in pits, it ferments and forms a. substance
which may be long preserved, called mahi. This substance has a taste
like that of bee-bread, and is used at sea, in the voyages the natives
make to the Paumotu Group, and in their excursions in search of
pearls.

The next place the party reached was Papara, at which Mr. Ors-

TAH PTI: 33

mond of the Mission resides. 'Taati, who has been named as one of
the great chiefs, has his usual abode here, but was absent on a visit to
the ships. Mr. Orsmond was kind enough to offer to such of the party
as felt too much fatigued to proceed farther on foot, a passage to
Papieti in his boat.

The coral reef is interrupted in front of the small bay which makes
up to Papara, and the surf dashes with some violence against the
shore ; but the passage, except for a short distance, was made within
the reef, and in smooth water.

As Taati was absent, one of his sons, (and he is reported to have a
dozen,) did the honours of the house, and provided them with break-
fast. This consisted of pig, taro, and bread-fruit, the standing dishes
of Tahiti. The table was covered with a cloth made of Russia
sheeting, and furnished with plates, cups and saucers, knives, forks, and
spoons.

In this place, also, a large portion of the population, and particularly
of the women, assembled to have a look at the strangers. It was re-
marked that there was more beauty among the young girls than they
had before seen upon the island. Many of them had their heads gaily
and tastefully ornamented with flowers.

On leaving Papara they were accompanied by a bevy of these gay
damsels, laughing and enjoying themselves with each other, and with
the guides. The latter had also stuck the scarlet Rosa Sinensis through
the lobes of the ears, and decorated their heads with wreaths after the
manner of the girls.

At Papara, the coast begins to wind to the northwest, and gradually
inclines more to the northward. Their route again lay along the
Broom Road, which extends completely around the island. It is in
places almost arched over by trees, that grow on each side of it, and
form a delightful shade. It may be termed a national work, and but
for its want of width, would bear comparison with many of the turn-
pikes in the United States. The streams which intersect it have all
been once crossed by good bridges of plank, but these are now going
to decay.

At short intervals are groves of cocoa-nut trees, planted along the
road; these are called the queen’s, and travellers are at liberty to help
themselves to the fruit. The private groves whose fruit it is wished to
protect, are tabooed. This is indicated by tying a girdle of leaves
around them, and this simple signal is still respected, although the
superstition on which its sanctity was founded has ceased to prevail.
The natives travel a great deal on this road, and some use it in going

VOL, II. 3

34 TAHITI.

to visit places on the opposite side of the island, in preference to
passing over the mountains.

At sunset they reached Otapuna, which is a large village, pleasantly
situated on a low point of land, covered with orange, bread-fruit, and
cocoa-nut trees. In this place Utami, one of the principal chiefs,
who is governor of this district, resides. With him our travellers took
up their quarters. His dwelling differs from other native houses, in
being divided into rooms, and having floors of plank; indeed every
thing about his establishment indicated more refinement than they had
yet met with. His table was set out after the European fashion, and
he gave them tea made of a native herb.

Utami is a very intelligent person, and had been one of Pomare’s
great captains. He related many anecdotes of the struggle in 1815,
which by his account appeared to have been a sanguinary one. He
stated, that on the retreat of the heathen party, all their prisoners
were put to death, by beating out their brains with clubs; that
numbers of them had been forced over precipices; and that many
had fled even to the summits of the mountains, where they remained
until a general pardon and amnesty had been proclaimed by Pomare.
Even this was not accepted by all, for many remained in the wild and
dreary regions of the mountains, refusing to embrace the new religion ;
and of these some had continued to exist until within the last five or
six years. Utami was of opinion that this remnant was now extinct.

Among other things, he informed them that the wild race which had
previously inhabited the island, were accustomed to roam all over it;
but that since they had been subdued or exterminated, none but the
cutters of sandal-wood had been accustomed to enter the mountainous
regions. These had been in the habit of ascending the most difficult
peaks by the aid of ropes, and of steps cut in the rock, but he was of
opinion that no one now remained who knew the way.

Utami was a fine-looking white-headed man, of giant proportions,
and when speaking of his former deeds in arms, showed a great deal
of fire and animation. Before he retired to rest he read a chapter in
the Bible, and made a prayer, with much apparent devotion. He
seems to have a great disposition to adopt European improvements,
and was engaged in building a house, which when finished will be the
best in the island. The floors will be all laid with plank; it will have
partitions of boards, and large windows with Venetian blinds.

This village is the next in size and importance to Papieti.

When this party first descended to the beach and reached Mirapahé,
they found a vessel on the stocks there. This enabled them to obtain

TAHITI. 35

some information in relation to the naval architecture of Tahiti. The
vessel was a small schooner, and the building of it was superintended
by a Yankee. The timber employed was that called by the natives
mape, (Inocarpus edulis,) which is said to be of excellent quality.
The supply of this wood is, however, limited. The poorou (Hibiscus
tiliaceus,) is also employed in ship-building, but it can only be pro-
cured of small size, and is therefore unfit for the structure of many
parts of a vessel.

Several vessels of about one hundred and thirty tons burden have
already been built upon the island. These have been employed in the
trade to New South Wales, whither they carry sugar, cocoa-nut oil,
and arrow-root, and whence they bring back in return hardware,
cloths, calicoes, &c. In the ports of New South Wales they pay the
same duties and charges as British bottoms.

The commercial resources of these islands are very limited; most
of the vessels that visit Tahiti are those belonging to our whaling
fleet: these average less than a hundred annually. From them the
natives are enabled to dispose of some of the supplies they raise, and
in return obtain such articles as will promote their comfort and add
to their pleasure. The whale-ships, for the most part, have articles
of trade which they barter with the natives, so that little money is
required to carry on their business. The natives, particularly the
chiefs, are however well acquainted with the value of money. An esti-
mate has been made that each of these vessels introduces goods into the
islands to the amount of $500 each, making a total amount of $50,000 ;
but I very much question whether it can reach this extent; and if this
amount be sold, it must include the profits: half the sum, I should
think, was a large estimate.

The few other vessels that visit the islands bring little cargo; if
two arrive at the same time, they destroy each other’s ventures by
slutting the markets.

The pearl-shell fishery of the Paumotu Group centres here. I was
told it was principally in the hands of the French consul. For a few
years before our arrival, viz., from 1832 to ’38, it had been very pro-
ductive. The amount obtained was about nine hundred tons, which
was estimated to be valued at $45,000 to $50,000; the greater part of
this was sent to France. Of the agricultural products they have little
to dispose of as yet; neither is the island susceptible of any very
extended operations, to induce vessels to visit it exclusively for its
trade or productions. The three chief articles of production are
sugar, cocoa-nut oil, and arrow-root. The following statement was
furnished me of the quantities produced.

36 TAHITI.

SUGAR.
Tahiti, . ‘ : ; . 105 tons, estimated value $8,000
Kimeo, . : , ; A eps) 2 ce 2,000
Raiatea, . : : : . Lor s cs 2 1,300
—— 11,300
COCOA-NUT OIL.
Tahiti, . ‘ ; : - nooress se gs 3,900
Eimeo, . . : - ees ce ‘s 1,500
Huaheine, 5 : : - 60” ge @ 4,500
Borabora and ; : eines oh . 3,800
Raiatea,
13,300
24,600

Of arrow-root there are about fifty tons produced, valued at nearly
$4,000, which revenue, included with the above, will make the sum
of nearly $28,000 as the value derived from the agricultural produc-
tions of all these islands. If they were under proper cultivation, this
amount would be greatly increased ; and from the estimate of a com-
petent person, it was believed that the productions might yield, if
properly attended to, a revenue of $300,000, as coffee, cotton, and
indigo might be added to the above articles; but this is undoubtedly
an estimation one-half too great, and would require an amount of
labour that the present native population are inadequate to perform,
and which their climate, wants, and desires will never probably excite
them to, or render necessary.

ZS Fa sr
SSAC SIS: ee
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TRADING CANOE,

CHAPTER U1.

CONTENTS.

SAILING OF THE PORPOISE—APPLICATION FROM “JIM” THE PILOT—SURVEY OF HAR-
BOURS—DOLPHIN BANK—THE VINCENNES PROCEEDS TO PAPIETI—VIEW OF PAPIETI—
INTERVIEW WITH THE CHIEFS—GENERAL FREYRE—HITOTI—SECOND ATTEMPT TO
ASCEND OROHENA—GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF TAHITI— VILLAGE AND BAY OF
PAPIETI—COMMERCE OF PAPIETI— POPULATION OF TAHITI—DISEASES—CRIMINAL
TRIAL— CULTIVATION —USEFUL PLANTS—ASCENT OF MOUNT AORAI—ABSENCE OF
FOSSILS ON TAHITIAN MOUNTAINS—RETURN FROM MOUNT AORAI—MANUFACTURES
OF TAHITI—REMARKS ON THE CONDUCT OF FOREIGN VISITERS—THEATRICALS BY
THE CREW OF THE PEACOCK—VINCENNES SAILS FOR EIMEO—VIEW OF EIMEO—
TALOO HARBOUR—LANDING AT EIMEO—RESIDENCE OF MR. SIMPSON—SCHOOL FOR
THE CHILDREN OF MISSIONARIES—CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES—SCENERY AND
STRUCTURE OF EIMEO—SUPPLIES TO BE PROCURED THERE— VILLAGES— COTTON
FACTORY —SUGAR PLANTATIONS —OTHER PRODUCTS—VON SCHANTZ'S CHART OF
TALOO HARBOUR—CONCLUSION.

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CHAPTER II.
TAHITI AND EIMEO.
1839.

Tue Porpoise, having been refitted, was sent to sea on the 20th
September, for the purpose of again visiting the west end of Nairsa or
Dean’s Island, with Krusenstern’s and Lazareff. She was also ordered
to pass over the supposed locality of Recreation Island, and then to
meet the Vincennes at Rose Island, the easternmost of the Samoan or
Navigator’s Group.*

A stormy evening having occurred previous to our leaving Matavai
Bay, “Jim,” the pilot, desired to see me; on his coming into the
cabin, to my great amusement, he urged me to allow him to go to
Papieti, where he was sure he would be wanted; and when I asked
for what purpose, he told me that the “thunder and lightning would
bring in ships of war.” He was displeased when I laughed and said,
that as he was engaged on board my ship, I would wait until I saw
the ships before I could give him permission. He then reminded me
of the night before we arrived, when there was plenty of thunder and
lightning, and that he had told me as soon as he came on board that
he expected us. He went on to repeat that he was sure that they
would want him early in the morning at Papieti, but I persisted in my
refusal; and in the morning he appeared much disconcerted to find
that there was nothing in sight out of which he could make a ship of
war.

The surveys of the four harbours of Matavai, Papaoa, Toanoa, and
Papieti, had been, as stated in the preceding chapter, commenced soon
after our arrival; they had made considerable progress before the

* A copy of the orders will be found in Appendix III.
(39)

40 TAHITI AND EIMEO.

departure of the Vincennes, and were subsequently completed by the -
officers of the Peacock.*

I was desirous, in addition, of ascertaining with precision the least
depth of water on the Dolphin Shoal, and had employed boats in
making accurate soundings. The results, however, were so unsatis-
factory, on account of the ever-varying level of the tide, that I could
not hope that they would serve for a reference by which to ascertain
the future increase of this bank, by the growth of the coral. I there-
fore planted a large stone, with a horizontal surface, and having found
the shoalest place on the bank, carefully measured the difference in the
height of the surface of the stone and the rock of the bank, by an
excellent spirit-level. I then caused a mark to be traced upon the
surface of the stone pointing towards the place on the bank where the
levelling-staff had been placed. The difference of level was twenty-
five feet seven inches. Old Taua, the chief of the district, promised
me that he would taboo the stone, and that it should not be touched or
disturbed on any account; and, to preserve it from any accidental
disturbance, it was set four feet into the ground.

The Vincennes moved to the harbour of Papieti on the 22d Septem-
ber. At the same time, orders were given to the Peacock and Flying-
Fish to take on board their articles from Point Venus, and to follow
as soon as they had done so. The tender required some repairs, which
could be done with more safety at Papieti. Both vessels joined us in
that harbour on the 24th.

In proceeding to Papieti, we left Matavai Bay in the morning, and
within a few hours had anchored in the harbour of the former place.
No soundings are to be had beyond the line of reefs, and consequently
there is no anchorage; the outer wall of the reef surrounding the
island is in fact perpendicular, with the exception of some projecting
patches in Matavai Bay, and to the eastward of Point Venus. On the
latter the French frigate Artemise struck, in 1836.

At the season of the year when we made this short passage, there
is some danger to be apprehended in entering the harbour of Papieti,
and much caution is therefore necessary. The trades at this season
are irregular, and the winds which prevail are light; they also are
most apt to fail at the critical moment when the vessel is at the
entrance of the narrow passage through the reefs, in which case the
current, which rushes strongly out and sometimes across the passage,
may cause a vessel to drift upon the western reef. The proper mode
of guarding against this, is to keep the vessel as close as possible to
the eastern reef. |

* The chart of these harbours will be found in the Hydrographical Atlas.

TAHITI AND EIMEO. 4]

The scenery at Papieti is remarkable; the background is filled up
with a number of pinnacle-shaped mountains, jutting up in a great
variety of forms; beneath, and directly in front of them, lies the semi-
circular harbour, surrounded by the white cottages and churches of
the village, embosomed in luxuriant foliage; these dwellings have a
peaceful and home-like look, to the eye of an American. In front, the
little coral island of Moto-utu forms an embellished foreground, and
serves to break the regularity of the line of the harbour, while by con-
cealing its extent, it gives it an air of»greater magnitude than it in
reality possesses. To my eye, this view combined within itself a
perfect picture of Polynesian scenery, enhanced in beauty by the signs
of civilization, among which was the national flag of Tahiti, waving
from a fortress on Moto-utu. ae

The purpose of my visit to Papieti had originally been to go through
the ceremony of receiving the great chiefs on board, when, according
to custom, presents are made them; but before this was done, I deter-
mined that the business, which I had laid before the council, as stated
in the preceding chapter, should be adjusted. This was done satisfac-
torily on the 22d, when they assented to all that had been asked of
them. Iam convinced that their conduct in this matter was dictated
throughout by a sense of what is right, and am satisfied that if griev-
ances do exist, it is only necessary to state them, when, if redress is
within their power, it will be granted.

Agreeably to my invitation, Uata, who appeared as the representa-
tive of the queen, the two princesses, Ninito and Taii, and all the head
chiefs, visited the ship, accompanied by the foreign consuls. ‘The ship
was dressed for the occasion with flags, and they were received with
. every mark of respect. Luncheon was prepared for them; and when
they were all seated at it, it struck me that I had never seen such a
collection of corpulent persons. Previous to eating, one of the oldest
chiefs said grace. Their appetites were good; none of the food
appeared to come amiss. They seemed heartily to enjoy themselves,
and conducted themselves with a propriety that surprised us all. They
were cautious in partaking of the wine which was set before them,
and seemed evidently upon their good behaviour. This was the case
with the high chiefs, who, to the number of about fifteen, had been
invited ; but, besides these, about an equal number of others contrived
to get on board without invitation; the latter thrust themselves forward
with eagerness to occupy places at the table, but were compelled to
give place to those of higher rank. A second table was, however,
prepared for them, at which they took their seats, and did ample justice
to what was set before them.

VOL. II. Le 6

42 TAHITI AND EIMEO.

The variety of costume which was exhibited at this banquet was.
amusing. The princesses were dressed in white frocks, shoes and
stockings, and chip bonnets, but looked awkwardly in them, and
appeared more like boys in girls’ clothes than women.. Some of the
men wore full suits,—coats, vests, and pantaloons,—of a variety of
colours; others had sailors’ round jackets ; others again had only shirts
and pantaloons, all too small, both in breadth and ‘Tength. Some had
black felt hats, of all possible fashions, and others wore them of straw ;
some had shoes on their feet, others had none.

Paofai’s son attracted attention by his ridiculous appearance: he
wore a red check shirt, light white pantaloons, that reached only half
way down his legs, coarse shoes without stockings, and a short-skirted
drummer’s coat of blue, plentifully faced with scarlet. The latter was
so small for him, that no force would make it button upon him. To
finish all, he had a high-crowned conical felt hat stuck upon the top of
his head.

After luncheon, they repaired to the deck, to receive the presents
prepared for them. These I had been advised, in order to avoid
unpleasant scenes, to pack in bundles, assorted to the rank of the
parties. In spite of this precaution, much consultation took place
among them, and a desire to exchange with one another was mani-
fested. This was particularly the case with our old acquaintance
Taua, and his friend Otore, the ex-minister and former favourite of
the queen. ‘The presents for the queen and royal family were com-
mitted to the charge of Uata, who, as has been stated, appeared as the
representative of her majesty.

Otore, who has been just named, is only a petty chief, but had been
the queen’s favourite and minister, until he was dismissed in conse-
quence of his frequent indulgence in intoxication. He is considered as
the greatest orator on the island. He and Taua are boon companions,
and were continually on board the vessels, where they so timed their
visits that the hour of breakfast was sure to find them either actually
seated at table or awaiting an invitation. Although at first welcome,
the habitual intrusion of these and others upon the messes, finally became
an annoyance, and on board the Peacock they had at last recourse to
“clearing the ship of strangers” during meals. Taua did not mind
this; and when we left Matavai, he was so kind as to remove to
Papieti, in order to be near his friends.

Among other visiters on this occasion, I had the honour of the
company of General Freyre, formerly President of Chili, who has
chosen Tahiti as his residence. It gave me great pleasure to become
acquainted with him, particularly as I had it in my power to give him

TAHITI AND EIMEO. 43

recent news from his own country and Peru, which he was desirous
of hearing. He spoke much of the deprivation he suffered by a sepa-
ration from his family, and from the want of society, but uttered not a
word of complaint against his enemies.

He lives in a small cottage on the bank of the harbour at Papieti,
where he is highly respected; his manner and whole deportment are
gentlemanly; he is tall and robust, with a florid complexion, and
appears about fifty-five years of age. In the chapter on Chili, his
public acts have been sufficiently enlarged upon; and although his
political course may have been much condemned, I can bear testimony
to the high estimation in which his private character is held in his
native country.

There are many pretty walks about Tahiti; the small streams, flow-
ing through luxuriant woods, add much to its beauty ; these run bubbling
along to the sea, passing many cool and pleasant places: their entrances
are usually closed up by the natives, for the purpose of taking fish, a sort
of dam being constructed, over which the waters flow, and the natives,
standing on the outside up to their waists in water, are often
seen taking the fish in baskets. The sketch by Mr. Agate is charac-
teristic.

On arriving at Tahiti, or indeed at any of the islands, respect is natu-
rally due to the chiefs; this, I am assured, was felt by us all; but long

44 TAHITI AND EIMEO.

before sailing we became disgusted with seeing these large and noble-.
looking men passing from ship to ship, even including Paofai himself,
soliciting foul linen to wash, and performing other services that were
not in keeping with their rank. There is one, however, whom I must
do justice to,—Hitoti. He maintained the character given him by
Captain Beechey. I was much pleased with his whole deportment on
his visit to me, and also when I saw him at his own house; he paid but
two visits to the ship, and those within a day or two of our departure.
That he did not visit the vessels before, was in order, as was supposed,
to avoid the suspicion of trespassing on our liberality ; he refused to
accept any presents, and would only drink wine when requested, per-
forming all the little couriesies of the table with grace and politeness.

On his visit to the Peacock, Lieutenant Emmons and Mr. Hale being
the only gentlemen on board, received him with the attentions due his
rank; when taking leave, he requested to know their names, which
were given to him in English orthography; he at once took out his
pencil, and with great readiness wrote them in the Tahitian dialect, as
« Fimaani’” and “ Helavi!” ,

Dr. Pickering and Mr. Couthouy being desirous of making another
attempt to reach:the top of Orohena, I willingly gave them the longest
leave possible, to effect their object. They determined on attempting
the ascent of the ridge leading directly up from Matavai Bay, as the
one that had appeared to them most practicable. Lewis Sacket, who
has already been spoken of, was again their interpreter; for guide, Mr.
Wilson recommended an old man by the name of Vahaore, who was
said to be the only person now living who had visited the top of Oro-
hena; in this selection they were fortunate: Vahaore had been in his
youth a great warrior, and his looks did not belie it; he was of the
middle size, thin and sinewy, and with a fine eye; although past sixty
years of age, he had scarcely a gray hair; his gait was firm and his
carriage erect; he was constant in his attention to his duties, and
rarely spoke unless relative to his business.

After the guides had been engaged, our gentlemen passed the night
in a native house close by, ready to start at an early hour. At day-
light, Vahaore and his son were provided with ropes; the reason the
old man gave for taking his son was that he might be able to learn the
way. They now set out, and by nine o’clock had reached a higher
point than at any time on their former journey: this was about three
thousand five hundred feet, and was attained after having walked six
miles ; when they had reached the altitude of fifteen hundred feet they
no longer found any paths; on arriving at this point, they halted for
some time to make collections of land-shells, and some very interesting

TAHITI AND EIMEO. 45

specimens were obtained of Helices, Patulas, Cyclostomas, Curocollas,
and Pupas; after this. they continued ascending, the ridge gradually
becoming narrower, until they reached a spot on the ridge where there
was not room for one person to pass by another, and where they could
look down a precipice on each side to depths of two thousand feet.

Plants that were below of small size here grew into large woody
shrubs ; among them a species of Epacris was found growing luxuri-
antly along the crest of the ridges, and magnificent arborescent ferns
on the mountain sides, some of them forty feet in height; another
species was seen whose fronds were more than twenty feet in length.
Their path was much impeded by the tangled ferns and wiry grass
(Gleichenia), which it was impossible to get through without the aid
of a knife or a hatchet. They had now reached four thousand five
hundred feet, the highest point yet attained, according to the guide, by
white men; two o’clock had arrived, and as there was no place where
they could encamp, or any chance of reaching a point suitable for
passing the night in, by the advice of Vahaore they allowed him to
look for one. The mountain top was still estimated to be six miles
distant; they had little doubt that it could be ascended by following the
ridge, and it was thought that they could accomplish the task if time
permitted. The day was fine, and they enjoyed a view of the whole
mountain, which appeared as if it were the centre, from which the
different ridges of the island radiate in ten or twelve directions towards
the coast, having deep and narrow vallevs between them, through
which the mountain torrents rush; these valleys spread out as they
approach the coast, and the ridges become more rounded and
accessible.

After reconnoitring the ground for some time, Vahaore recollected
a place where they might pass the night, which he thought was not far
distant. He therefore immediately began to break a road, which he
continued for about a quarter of a mile along the ridge. He then
reached a place where the descent might be made, which, however,
to all appearances, presented as few facilities for the purpose as any
they had before looked at. They, however, tried it, and after a hard
scramble reached, about sunset, the place he sought. The descent was
estimated to be about two thousand feet, and was performed partly by
leaping from tree to tree, and partly by lowering one another by ropes
over precipitous ledges from ten to twelve feet in height. In the
words of Sacket, “ No man in his senses ever went down such a place
before, and none but a fool would attempt to do so again.” At the foot
of the descent lay the first valley, and they found themselves among
groves of the wild banana (fahies).

AG TAHITI AND EIMEO,

A temporary shelter was soon constructed on the banks of a moun-
tain stream, which ran headlong by. In this, Vahaore amused himself
by catching eels, a sport in which he was expert, and which he per-
formed in the following manner: having found a small basin at the foot
of the cliff, in which an eel was concealed, he placed a large flat stone
in the middle of it, and began to bale out the water with his hands; he
next disturbed the fish, which sought shelter beneath the stone, when,
by cautiously introducing his hands, he contrived to grasp it, and by a
sudden jerk threw it thirty or forty feet into the woods, where he
easily secured it. In this manner, two eels were taken, nearly four feet
in length, and as thick as a man’s arm. The eels were not skinned,
but carefully cleaned and washed; they were then wrapped in leaves,
and cooked in the usual Polynesian manner. Thus prepared, they
proved a great delicacy. These eels, although much esteemed by the
natives, appear to be almost unknown to the white residents.

The idea of ascending the peak was now abandoned, and in the
morning they set out on their return to the coast. In their route, they
crossed several spurs of the main ridge; about noon they again halted,
and employed themselves in making collections, while Vahaore again
went a fishing. He soon returned with three eels, the largest of which
was upwards of three feet in length. These eels are of a uniform dark
olive colour on the back, which passes on the belly to a dirty white.

Early in the afternoon they reached the lower valley, with the stream
called Pappiamatia, about twenty yards wide, and from two to three
feet deep, running down it. About five miles from the coast they
passed a range of basaltic columns, one-fourth of a mile in length; the
cliff presenting a perpendicular wall, rising up at the east side of the
stream, formed columns, one hundred and fifty feet high; the number
of sides varied from four to seven, and their diameter from nine inches
to two feet. The ridge at whose base this was found, was upwards
of two thousand feet high. The party reached Matavai Bay at sunset.

The ridge that our gentlemen followed, is considered by them as
the most feasible route to the summit of Orohena; the greatest difficulty
with which the attempt is attended arises from the dislike of the natives
to visit places where they have not been before, and their anxiety to
keep themselves within the region of the fahies.

Pitohiti might also be reached by the same route; there is little
doubt that the latter has also been ascended by following the western
branch of the Pappino valley, a route which was also considered
feasible by our party; a third route might also be found by following
the main branch of the Pappino, which, as will be seen on the map,
rises behind Pitohiti.

TAHITI AND EIMEO. AY

This excursion furnished more full information in relation to the
geological structure of the island than had before been obtained. This
is exclusively volcanic, and the rocks are either compact basalts, or
conglomerates of basalt and tufa, although no active volcano. exists,
nor any well-defined crater, unless Lake Waiherea can be considered
as one. Through these rocks olivine and pyroxene are copiously
disseminated; cellular lava was found in some places, but neither
pummice nor obsidian; quartz and mica were not observed, nor any
carbonate of lime, except in the form of coral rock.

There is no conformity between the rocks of the centre of the island
and those which in most places extend inwards for a few miles from
the coast. The former are usually compact, of columnar structure,
and exhibit no appearance of horizontal stratification; the latter lie in
horizontal layers, composed of scoriaceous and vesicular lava. In both
of these structures, singular twistings and contortions were observed.
Many dikes were seen to occur, not only in the mountains, but near
the sea-coast; these were from three to six feet in width.

All the rocks of the island appear to be undergoing rapid decompo-
sition. Even in places where the rock seemed to have retained its
original form of sharp edges and pointed pinnacles, it was found so
soft, to the depth of a foot or more, as to crumble in the hand. The
earth thus formed varies in colour from that of Indian red to a light
ochrey tint; in consequence, many of the hills are of a red hue, and
one immediately behind Papieti, takes its name (Red Hill) from this
appearance.

This decomposed earthy matter, mixed with the abundant decayed
vegetation of a tropical climate, forms, as may be readily imagined, a
soil of the greatest fertility, adapted to every kind of cultivation. On
the higher grounds, the soil thus constituted has the character of a
clay, and is in wet weather slippery and unctuous ; in lower positions
it is mixed with lime derived from coral and shells, which often tends
to augment its fertility.

Iron abounds throughout; on the mountains to such an extent that
compasses were found of little use from the local attraction by which
they were affected; and on the shore, the sand was composed in part
of iron, which could be separated by the magnet.

Water gushes out near the coast in copious springs, but none of them
were found hot, nor were any warm springs reported to exist.

Papieti, in whose harbour we were now lying, is one of the largest
villages on the island; being the ordinary residence of the queen, and
the abode of the foreign consuls. The foreign residents are also, for
the most part, collected here. Among all its dwellings, the royal

48 TAHITI AND EIMEO.

residence, and the house of Mr. Pritchard, are the only ones which
possess the luxury of glazed windows. The houses of the foreigners
are scattered along the beach, or built immediately behind it.

The bay of Papieti is the safest, and its port affords the greatest
facilities for the repair and supply of vessels, of any belonging to the
island. For the first purpose a wharf and warehouse have been con-
structed, which are let to those who wish to use them. We occupied
them for ten days, for which we paid thirty dollars. The tender was
hove out at the wharf, and her equipment secured in the warehouse.
A limited supply of ships’ stores and chandlery is kept for sale, and
may also be purchased from the vessels which frequent the port.

The greater part of the commercial business of Tahiti is transacted
here, whither the articles for export from other parts of the island are
brought to be re-shipped. ‘The number of vessels which visit this port
annually, is about sixty, of which the largest portion are whalers; the
remainder are transient merchantmen, or regular traders from New
South Wales. The latter bring cotton fabrics, which they exchange
for sugar, molasses, arrow-root, and cocoa-nut oil. The value of the
exports in this direction is supposed to be about $35,000.

The amount of American manufactured goods imported into the
island is estimated at an equal sum; they find their way here in
transient ships from the coast of South America, and the supplies
furnished our whale-ships are generally paid in American goods.

It is almost impossible, in the absence of all statistics, to arrive at
any correct statement of the amount of foreign manufactures annually
consumed here; but the quantity is evidently on the increase.

By a regulation of the colonial government of New South Wales,
Tahitian vessels are allowed to enter their ports on the same footing
with the English. ‘There are several vessels engaged in the trade, and
others building.

The position of this island, in the vicinity of the cruising-ground of
our whale-ships, and the resources it possesses for supplying shipping,
make it a desirable point of rendezvous.

The following statement will show the number and value of Ame.
rican vessels visiting this island in the years 1836, ’87, and ’38.

WHALE-SHIPS. TONS. VALUE OF CARGO.
1836. eke. ‘ : oe) DB090) foe 2 ‘ $1,307,500
1837. es ee ‘ ; 20500 u a. : F 1,817,000
1838 (tg. sinc Ett : A ~ 109,000 . i ; 1,268,000
9 merchant-ships, 00 y : ; 75,000
55,290 $4,467,500

A census recently taken, gives for the population of Tahiti nine

TAHIT! AND EIMEO. 49

thousand, and for that of Eimeo one thousand. When this is compared
with the estimates of the navigators who first visited these islands, an
enormous decrease would appear to have taken place. ‘The first esti-
mates were, however, based on erroneous data, and were unquestion-
ably far too high; yet there is no doubt that the population has fallen
off considerably in the interval. The decrease may be ascribed in
part to the remains of the old custom of infanticide, in part to new dis-
eases introduced from abroad, and the evils entailed upon them by
foreigners, and in part to the transition now going on from a savage
to a civilized life.

Whatever may have been the case, during the first years after it
was visited by Europeans, the population for the last thirty years has
been nearly stationary; the births and deaths are now almost exactly
in equal numbers. One of the oldest of the missionaries informed me,
that although he saw much change in the character and habits of the
people, he could perceive none in their apparent numbers.

Tahiti does not appear to be afflicted by many diseases. Some
have been introduced by foreign ships, and among others, the venereal,
from which the natives suffer much, being in possession of no method
of arresting its ravages, and ignorant of the proper mode of treating
it. In connexion with this subject, the want of a physician as a part
of the missionary establishment, struck me as an instance of neglect
in its managers; and I was surprised to hear that the London Society
did not employ any medical men. From this cause, not only are the
natives deprived of the benefits which might so easily have been
conferred upon them, but the missionaries themselves are compelled
to pay, out of their private purses, for medical aid, when it can be
procured. They are even at times wholly without a physician. This
happened to be the case at the time of our arrival, when a medical
practitioner who had formerly resided on the island, had just taken his
departure. |

The effects of intoxication from ardent spirits and ava are said to
have swept off many of the inhabitants. Secondary syphilis is in
some cases severe, but their usual vegetable diet and simple mode of
living, together with frequent ablutions, tend to mitigate this disease.
Its continued prevalence, as well as the severity of some of the cases,
are ascribable to the inordinate use of mercury, administered by a
physician who was accustomed to distribute it in inordinate quantities
among the affected, who were of course ignorant of its nature and
consequences.

While lying at Papieti, we had an opportunity of seeing the manner
in which justice is administered in criminal cases. The court was

VOL. II. E 7

50 TAHITI AND EIMEO.

neld in the council-house, an oblong building, in the native style; the
alleged crime was assault with intention of rape. The judges were
seated o mats, having Paofai, their chief, a little in front of the rest;
and the audience sat or stood around. The culprit was a petty chief,
called Ta-ma-hau, a man of huge size, and apparently somewhat of a
bully ; he stood during the trial leaning against one end of the house,
with an air of cool indifference. His accuser was a damsel not
remarkable for personal beauty; she sat near the door among a number
of other women. The witnesses were patiently heard, and the matter
argued, after which the six judges severally gave their opinions and
made remarks on the evidence, to which Paofai listened in an attentive
and dignified manner, expressing, as occasion demanded, his assent or
dissent. He then pronounced the verdict of the court, by which the
prisoner was acquitted, but did not dismiss him without a brief and
merited admonition. It appeared, that although not guilty of the crime
alleged, he had while intoxicated addressed indecent language to his
accuser.

Cultivation has undergone a great change within a few years, from
the introduction of the guava, which has overrun the lower plain; the
pasturage has not only suffered, but to its destructive effects are
attributed many evils. ‘Ten years prior to our visit, about which time
the guava was introduced by the missionaries, the plain, from the sea
to the base of the hills, was covered with verdure; and now it is over-
run with an almost impenetrable thicket, before which all other vege-
tation disappears. I am inclined to think, that although this tree is
now looked upon by the natives as a great curse, it will in time be
beneficial to them, and cause them to become industrious, when they
are obliged to get rid of it to make room for their sugar-cane, cotton,
and indigo plantations; which products succeed remarkably well, can
be raised at small cost, and will before many years be in great demand.

The cocoa-nut trees were also reported to have been decreasing, but
our inguiries did not confirm this statement.

The manner of ascending the trees by the natives, has been fre-
quently described, but can scarcely be imagined until witnessed ; the
feat is performed by leaping without any cessation, even in climbing
the highest tree; the body of the tree being rough or composed of
rings, affords some hold for the thong which spans the tree between the
feet; at every jump, the body is thrown entirely free from the tree. _

The bread-fruit tree is also said to have decreased, and this is no
doubt the case; the seeds are said to be often abortive at Tahiti, for
which reason the cultivation in this way has been neglected of late, and
the plants raised in other modes have become less productive in conse-

TAPP AND EDT MEO: 51

quence; its timber is used for many purposes; the fruit was not in
season while we were at Tahiti.

Wild sugar-cane was found in the interior, commonly growing in
tufts, but so small in size that it was with difficulty recognised; the
cultivated kind is derived from this, and is also of small size.

The fruits we met with were oranges, lemons, limes, shaddocks,
pine-apples, papayas, bananas, figs, vi-apple, fahies, cocoa-nut, and
bread-fruit ; the six first mentioned have been introduced since Cook’s
time.

The vegetables are sweet-potatoes (Convolvulus), yams of small size,
taro (Caladium esculentum), the ape (Caladium macrorhizon), turnips,
onions, and leeks; but there were no common potatoes cultivated. I
gave Mr. Wilson some of the yellow Peruvian potato (Papas amarillas),
but he informed me that all their attempts to raise potatoes in the low
ground had failed.

The tacca, from which arrow-root is manufactured, grows in quan-
tities, but we did not see it cultivated.

In the botanical researches it was remarkable that not a single stem
of paper mulberry (Broussonetia) was found, although former visiters
speak of it as the tree from which their cloth was made.

There are a vast variety of ornamental shrubs, and many aromatic
plants, which the natives use to perfume their cocoa-nut oil.

The tutui tree (Aleurites triloba), the nut of which is used in tattoo-
ing, is very common all over the island.

Tobacco is grown in small quantities.

Mr. Henry informed me that grapes succeeded well on the south-
east side of the island.

The price of labour is from two to four dollars a month, but for
occasional labour fifty cents a day is usually paid.

Wild hogs are said to be numerous in the mountain region; none of
our parties, however, met any. Horses are possessed by many persons
on the island, and goats were seen. Dogs and cats were abundant.
The island is well supplied with cattle; they are suffered to run wild,
and frequent the neighbourhood of the hills, whither they are obliged to
go for pasturage, which is now very scarce on the island, on account
of the thick growth of the guava.

After the departure of the Vincennes, a party from the Peacock,
consisting of Mr. Dana and some others, obtained leave of absence from
Captain Hudson for five days, with the design of ascending Mount
Aorai. They commenced the ascent immediately in the rear of
Papieti, and by noon on the second day had reached an elevation of

52 TAHITI AND EIMEO.

five thousand feet, where they stood upon a platform about twelve feet
square ; thence they looked down eastward two thousand feet into the
Matavai Valley ; to the westward they had a gorge about a thousand
feet deep running into Toanoa Valley; to the south, the platform on
which they stood was united by a narrow ridge with Mount Aorai,
which was apparently only a short distance before them. In this place
they were compelled to pass the night, by a fog which enveloped them,
through which the guides were unwilling to lead them, refusing to pro-
ceed further along the dangerous path until the clouds should clear
away.

The next morning was clear, and they pursued their ascending route
along the edge of a ridge not more than two or three feet in width,
having on each side an abyss two thousand feet deep. Seen from this
ridge, looking south, Mount Aorai seemed a conical peak, but as it
was approached it proved to be a mountain wall, whose edge was
turned towards them. The only ascent was by a similar narrow
path between precipices, and surpassed in steepness those they had
already passed. The width of the crest seldom exceeded two feet,
and in some cases they sat upon it as if on horseback, or were com-
pelled to creep along it upon their hands and knees, clinging to the
bushes. At last they reached the summit, where they found barely
room to turn around. ‘The ridge continued for only a short distance
beyond them, being then cut across by the Punaania Valley.

From the summit of Aorai they had a magnificent view; to the
south, it was speedily bounded by the peaks of Orohena and Pitohiti,
whose steep sides rose from the valley beneath them; to the east,
they had the rapid succession of ridge and gorge which characterizes
Tahitian scenery ; to the west, over a similar series of jagged ridges,
Eimeo and Tetuaroa stood out from the horizon of the sea in bold
relief; to the north, they looked down upon the plain, studded with
groves of cocoa-nut and orange, and upon the harbour with its ship-
ping, and the encircling reefs of coral.

A short distance below the summit of Mount Aorai, a mass of turrets
and pinnacles, which from its singular outline is called the crown,
runs along the top of a narrow ledge.

Except the plain of the coast, no level land is in sight but the valley
of Punaania; this is divided from that of Matavai by a ridge of the
usual edge-like form, running upwards towards Orohena.

Very few of the natives who are now alive have been on the summit
of Aorai; their paths in this direction, as in other places, do not lead
beyond the limit of the groves of wild banana (fahie). Beyond the

TAHITI AND EIMEO. 53

height at which these cease to grow, the ground is chiefly covered
with a wiry grass (Gleichenia), which springs up in many places to
the height of ten feet, and is every where almost impenetrable. When
this was not too high, they broke it down by casting their bodies at
full length upon it; and when of larger growth, they had recourse to
cutting away or breaking its stiff and crowded stems, until they had
formed a way beneath it, whence the light was almost excluded.

The want of water, which after a few days of dry weather is
seldom found even in the elevated valleys, was an additional discom-
fort. It is to be recommended to future travellers in the mountains
of Tahiti to make provision against this inconvenience. The party
was so much distressed from this cause as to enjoy the dew upon the
leaves as a luxury.

Mr. Dana reported that the visit to Aorai conclusively settled one
questionable point in the geology of the island. He found upon its
. summit neither corals nor “ screw-shells,” which vague rumours have
long located on the top of the Tahitian mountains. Every one who
has visited this island has probably heard that such formations exist in
these lofty positions; but the report rests wholly on native authority.
Moera, the guide who accompanied the party, and who resides near
One-Tree Hill, insisted that he had seen both, and promised to show
them. On reaching the summit, he began digging, and the rest of the
party aided him. He soon brought up what he called coral, but which
proved to be a grayish trachytic rock ; and, although he continued to
dig for some time longer, he could find nothing which he could venture
to exhibit as screw-shells.

In their descent from Mount Aorai they followed the western side
of the valley of Papoa, along a narrow ledge, similar to that by which
they had ascended. After proceeding for two hours they reached a
small plain, which speedily narrowed to a mere edge of naked rock,
with a steep inclination; this they were compelled to traverse on
their hands and knees, taking the greatest care to avoid detaching the
rock, which in many places overhung a precipice; next followed a
perpendicular descent of about twenty-five feet, down which they let
themselves by ropes; this difficulty overcome, the rest of the route
presented no dangerous features, and was performed in safety.

The manufactures of Tahiti are of little amount. Among them is
that of arrow-root from the Tacca pinnatifida, which employs a por-
tion of the population. Cocoa-nut oil is also made, and preserved for
use in pieces of bamboo, cut off at the joints, when the natural dia-

phragms form a bottom, and the piece is thus a convenient bucket.
E2

54 TAHITI AND EIMEO.

This oil is often scented with aromatic herbs, to be employed by the
natives in anointing the hair and body; it is also used for burning in
lamps, and is exported in considerable quantities. The lamps, which
are always kept burning in their houses at night, are made of the shell
of a cocoa-nut. The wick is formed of wild cotton, and is kept
upright in the centre of the bowl by two elastic strips of cocoa-nut
leaf crossing each other at right angles.

Sugar is beginning to attract attention, and some attempts have also
been made in the culture and preparation of indigo.

Making straw or chip hats is a favourite occupation among the
women, whose former employment of making tapa has, as was stated
in the preceding chapter, been much diminished by the introduction of
European fashions.

I have also before referred to the abortive attempt of the mission-
aries to introduce machinery for the manufacture of cotton, which will
be again mentioned in speaking of the island of Eimeo, where the -
experiment was made.

Before closing my remarks on Tahiti, I consider it my duty to say
a few words in relation to the transgression of the local laws by many
of the vessels which visit it, and some of which, I regret to be com-
pelled to confess, bear the flag of the United States. I have particular
reference to the license always allowed to the crews, and in which the
masters and officers often themselves indulge, in making brothels of —
their ships. They also do not scruple to retail ardent spirits to the
natives, although they well know that it is contrary to a law of the
island, most strictly enforced on shore. Such conduct not unfrequently
gives rise to difficulties very prejudicial to the interests of the owners;
but it is still more disgraceful when considered in its destructive effect
upon the people whose hospitality they are enjoying, and as a practice
that they would not dare to indulge in, when in the ports of any
civilized nation.

The influence of the example of these visiters upon the natives is
demoralizing in the extreme, is calculated to retard their advancement
in civilization, and throws countless difficulties and obstructions in the
way of the laudable exertions of the missionaries.

Little idea can be formed by those who have not witnessed it, of.
the extent to which the practice of vending spirits is carried, not only
at Tahiti, but throughout the Polynesian islands. I am satisfied, that
if the owners of the vessels which indulge in it were aware of the
traffic, and had a just sense of their own interest, they would interdict the
sale of this pernicious article, and prohibit the carriage ofit in their ships.

TAHITI AND EIMEO. 55

Captain Hudson, who was much troubled with the illicit supply of
spirits to his men, and was aware of the fact that the practice of
vending it was contrary to law, endeavoured to discover the parties
engaged in this traffic. He did this not only for the sake of his own
crew, who, when questioned, stated that their intoxication was pro-
duced by gin, bought at the rate of three dollars a bottle, but to aid the
natives in their exertions to prevent the infraction of their laws by the
white residents. In pursuance of these objects, he called a meeting of
the chiefs, and stated his complaint. They forthwith ordered search to
be made for the offenders by the police, by which some of them were
discovered and immediately fined. At the examination, however, the
chiefs stated to Captain Hudson, with what truth I do not pretend to
say, that seventy cases of gin had been landed by our own consul, from
whom they believed that the retailers had obtained it, while the main
stock being upon his premises, under the United States flag, was pro-
tected from search.

The repairs of the Flying-Fish were not completed before the 10th
October, up to which time the Peacock was detained, not only in order
that they might sail in company, but because her officers were still
engaged in the survey of the harbours. In the interval of leisure which
was thus afforded them, the crew of the Peacock asked and obtained
permission to get up a theatrical entertainment, for the amusement of
the natives and themselves. The council-house was placed at their
disposal for the purpose by the native authorities. The play chosen
was Schiller’s “ Robbers,” the parts of which had been rehearsed at
’ sea, in the afternoons—a task which had been the source of much
amusement. An opportunity was now presented of getting it up well:
the dresses having been prepared, the day was appointed, and when it
arrived the piece was performed; the acting was thought by the
officers very tolerable, and finally gave great delight to the natives.
The latter, however, were somewhat disappointed in the early parts
of the performance, for they had expected an exhibition of juggling,
such as had been given for their entertainment on board of a French
frigate. While under this feeling, they were heard to say there was
too much “ parau” (talk). After they began to enter into the spirit of the
performance, the murders took their fancy ; and they were diverted with
the male representatives of the female characters.

A number of comic songs, which formed the relief of the more
serious play, were exceedingly applauded ; among others they laughed
heartily at “Jim Crow” sung in character, and could not be persuaded
that it was a fictitious character.

56 TAHITI AND EIMEO.

On the 25th September, the Vincennes sailed from the port of
Papieti for the island of Eimeo. The distance between its reef and
that of Tahiti, measured by the patent log, is ten miles.

Eimeo is a beautiful object in the view from Tahiti, and its beauty
is enhanced on a nearer approach; its hills and mountains may,
without any great stretch of the imagination, be converted into
battlements, spires, and towers, rising one above the other; their gray
sides are clothed here and there with verdure, which at a distance
resembles ivy of the richest hue.

Taloo harbour is an inlet about three miles in depth, situated ina
glen enclosed by precipitous sides rising in places to the height of two
thousand feet; at its head is an extensive flat of rich alluvial soil, now
employed in the culture of sugar, and studded with trees, shrubs, and
other interesting objects. The ship lay at anchor close beneath a high
mountain on the left, in contrast with which her dimensions seemed
those of a cock-boat.

I had been furnished with letters to the Rev. Mr. Simpson, who is
stationed as missionary at Kimeo; when we landed, he met us upon
the beach, and gave us a most cordial reception; we were soon
surrounded by nearly all the natives in the place, male and female,
old and young, who followed us with expressions of wonder; their
conduct reminded me of the manner in which an Indian chief is run
after in the streets of our American cities. In spite of their excite-

TAHITI AND EIMEO. 57

ment they were all extremely civil, and said they only wished to look
at us, although some were disposed to feel us.

Mr. Simpson led the way to his house, passing by a thick and well-
built stone wall, the only one which I had seen used as an enclosure
in these islands; on my inquiring if it was the work of native labour,
I was informed that it had been erected by an Irishman, who is now
the overseer of Mr. Simpson’s sugar plantation. This wall encloses a
large lawn, with a number of fine bread-fruit trees; on each side of
the walk was a row of low acacias, which were at the time in
full bloom, with flowers of many colours,—yellow, orange, red, and
variegated; at the end of the walk was a low thatched white
cottage.

Mr. and Mrs. Simpson have the care of a school for the children
of missionaries and respectable white parents: these are kept entirely
separate from the children of the natives; the reason assigned for this
exclusiveness is, that the danger of the former receiving improper
ideas is such as to preclude their association with the latter. This
may be good policy as far as the white children are concerned,
although I doubt its having a good effect on their minds if they are
destined to spend their lives among the islands. The habit they will
thus acquire of looking upon the natives as their inferiors, cannot fail
to have an injurious influence on both. The exclusiveness is carried
so far, that the children of whites by native women, although they are
united in the relation of husband and wife, are not admitted into these
schools, because, as they say, they do not wish their children to be
contaminated by intercourse with such a mixture of blood. In pur-
suance of the same policy they have, as it is said, procured the
enactment of a law prohibiting marriage between whites and the
natives. :

This, I must say, appeared to me the worst feature I had seen in the
missionary establishment. It is placed here for the avowed purpose
of reclaiming the natives from idolatry, and the vices which are its
concomitants. In doing this, their most successful efforts have been
in the conversion and moral improvement of the young; yet they bring
up their own children to look down upon them as beings of an inferior
order. In becoming acquainted with this feature, I no longer wondered
at the character, which I was compelled by a regard for truth to give,
of the children of missionary parents in Tahiti.

The missionaries are now aware that their proper plan is to devote
their time and attention to the young; and in pursuance of this object,
Mr. and Mrs. Howe have lately arrived from England, for the purpose
of establishing an infant school.

VOL. Il. 8

58 TAHITI AND EIMEO.

It is to be regretted that the schools of manual labour have, for
what reason I could not learn, been discontinued. Some of the natives
who had been instructed in them evinced a knowledge of the trade of
the carpenter, and furnished the ships with very good boards sawn by
themselves.

The natives of EKimeo have an advantage over those of Tahiti in
being free from the influence of evil example; many of them are
industrious, and possess a proper feeling of the benefits they have
derived from the missionaries, of whom they speak, whenever ques-
tioned, as friends.

Three of our crew having become enamoured of these islands,
deserted while the Vincennes Jay at Eimeo. They left the ship about
ten o’clock at night, soon after which their absence was discovered,
and parties sent out in every direction to intersect the roads and drive
them to the hills. This was effected the following morning, and a
large party of natives was employed to hunt them up. This task
they speedily performed, and at last drove the deserters to one of the
highest ridges, in full view of the ship. Here the runaways appeared
at first disposed to make fight with stones; but when they saw the
odds against them, and witnessed the alertness of the natives in
leaping from cliff to cliff, they thought it best to give themselves
up; which they did to three natives, naked except the maro, and
armed respectively with a rusty sword, an old cutlass, and a piece
of iron hoop. These bound their hands, and led them down to the
shore, whence they were brought on board, where the three natives
received the reward offered for their apprehension. The chase and
capture was an amusing sight to those who watched the proceedings
from the ship.

Eimeo has, if possible, a more broken surface than Tahiti, and is
more thrown up into separate peaks; its scenery is wild even in com-
parison with that of Tahiti, and particularly upon the shores, where
the mountains rise precipitously from the water, to the height of
twenty-five hundred feet. The reef which surrounds the island is
similar to that of Tahiti, and as we have seen to be the case there, no
soundings are found on the outside of it. Black cellular lava abounds,
and holes are found in its shattered ridges, among which is the noted
one through which the god Oroo is said to have thrown his spear.

While we remained at Eimeo, I visited Papoa or Cook’s Harbour,
which lies to the east of that of Taloo. There is a marked resem-
blance between the two ports, except that the shores of Papoa are not
quite as precipitous as those of Taloo, and the entrance of the former
not as practicable.

TAHITI AND EIMEO. 59

Wood and water may be had at both harbours in abundance, but
in other respects the island is not well adapted as a place for the
supply of ships. No more than a single ship would probably be able
to find refreshments at a time. It is, therefore, seldom visited, and
its surplus produce is carried to Tahiti for sale. Notwithstanding, the
articles of traffic are quite as dear as at Tahiti.

The inhabitants of Eimeo reside upon the shores, and there are
several large villages on the southern side of the island; among these
is Afareaitu, at which the Rev. Mr. Hale, whose recent arrival has
been spoken of, is about to take up his residence.

It was in this island that the establishment of a factory for spinning
cotton, and weaving cloth and carpets, was attempted by Messrs.
Armitage and Blossom, who were sent out for the purpose by the
London Missionary Society. Its failure and cessation after a fair trial
have already been mentioned.

It has been seen that the alluvial plain at the head of the harbour
of Taloo, is partly occupied by plantations of sugar. The cane is of
superior quality, and the climate well adapted to its production; the
plant is indeed indigenous, and it is well known that the variety of it
found at Tahiti has been introduced advantageously into the West
Indies. At Eimeo the crop is liable to injury from the ground-rat, and
there are difficulties attending the management of the crop, which
cause the cultivators to speak despondingly. About one hundred tons,
nowever, are made annually.

Coffee, cotton, and all other tropical plants, succeed well at Kimeo,
and the quantity of tapa manufactured is greater in proportion than at
Tahiti.

I took the opportunity of my anchorage in the harbour of Eimeo, to
verify the chart made by Captain Von Schantz, of the Russian ship
America, and found it accurate. I have added some soundings, and
laid down the topography of the shores, and the outline of the reefs,
more minutely than he had attempted.

On leaving Eimeo, I bade adieu to the Tahitian islands ; but I cannot
close the portion of the Narrative which is devoted to them, without
again expressing the pleasure I and all my officers derived from our
intercourse with the missionaries, and our obligations for the kindness
received from them and other residents. Among those to whom we
are indebted, I cannot refrain from naming George Pritchard, Esq.,
H. B. M. Consul, of whose strenuous exertions to advance the welfare
of the people, and sustain the government in its efforts to promote their
best interests, I became by observation fully aware. It is to be regretted

60 TAHITI AND EIMEO.

that his very activity in thus labouring in many ways for the good of ©
the community in which he resides, should be the probable cause of
unkind and unfounded imputations, from those actuated, if not by
motives positively bad, at least by a less enlightened or less ardent
zeal.

BEATING TAPA.

CHAPTER IIL

CONTENTS.

DEPARTURE OF THE VINCENNES FROM TAHITI—BELLINGHAUSEN'S ISLAND—ROSE
ISLAND—MANUA—ITS DESCRIPTION —THREATENED WAR—ITS CAUSE—CANOES OF
MANUA—APPEARANCE AND CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES—VILLAGE—DRESS OF THE
NATIVES—PRODUCTIONS OF MANUA—OLOOSINGA—ITS DESCRIPTION—HOUSE OF THE
KING—HIS ENTERTAINMENT—RETURN TO THE SHIP—CORAL REEF OF OLOOSINGA—
OFOO—TEMPERATURE DURING THE PASSAGE—PLAN OF THE OPERATIONS OF THE
SQUADRON—APPEARANCE OF TUTUILA—HARBOUR OF PAGO-PAGO—ANCHORAGE—TOA
— OBSERVATORY —GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF TUTUILA—APPEARANCE AND CHA-
RACTER OF ITS INHABITANTS— MASSACRE OF M. DE LANGLE—VILLAGE OF PAGO-
PAGO—GOVERNMENT—WAR-MATS—VISIT TO TOA—HIS FEAST—PRICE OF PROVISIONS
—WAR-SONG—BATHING—MODE OF LIVING—EMPLOYMENTS AND AMUSEMENTS — MR.
MURRAY, THE MISSIONARY—CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES—PUBLIC WORSHIP—MISSION-
ARY—JUNCTION OF THE PEACOCK AND FLYING-FISH—SURVEYS—CLIMATE—VISIT TO
HEATHEN VILLAGES—SAVAGE FEAST—TEMPERATURE AT THE TOP OF MATAFOA—
SUPPOSED MURDER—REMARKABLE PHENOMENA OF THE TIDES.

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CHAPTER ITI.
TUTUILA.

1839,

On the 29th of September, at daylight, having the wind from the
northward and eastward, we got under way, and made sail to the west-
ward, passing the Society Island Group: viz., Sir Charles Saunders’
Isle, Huaheine, Tahaa, Borabora, Maufili, and Moutoiti. All of these,
with the exception of the last, are high lands.

On the 30th, we made Bellinghausen’s Island, which is a low corai
island, similar to those which have been already described. It was
uninhabited, and is of a triangular form, with the usual vegetation,
with the exception of cocoa-nut palms. We landed upon it, and made
the magnetic experiments.

Birds were in great plenty, and as tame as we had found them at
other uninhabited islands we had visited. No lizards or rats were
observed, nor was the common fly seen. The lagoon had no passage
into it at low water, but the tide flowed into it over the reef.

During the time of our stay on the island, the tide rose and fell
upwards of two feet, and it was high water at 8 a. m. Many specimens
of fish were obtained here, of which the department of Natural History
will treat.

In the afternoon, we again made sail to the westward, for Rose
Island, and on the 6th of October, we passed near the locality of the
Royal George Shoal, but saw nothing of it.

On the 7th, which was the day appointed for our rendezvous off
Rose Island, we came in sight of it, and at the same time descried the
Porpoise. That vessel had passed by Nairsa or Dean’s Island, and
connected the survey of it with that of Krusenstern’s and Lazareff.
Both of these were found to have entrances into their lagoons; they

(63)

64 TUTUILA.

are uninhabited, though occasionally visited by the natives of Nairsa —
Island. The position of Recreation Island was passed over, but no
signs of land discovered.

Rose Island, the most eastern of the Samoan Group, was discovered
by Freycinet, who gave it its name. It appears, at first, like a round
knoll of land, but on a nearer approach, this is found to arise from a
large clump of Pisonia trees, similar to those found growing in the low
archipelago. It is a low annular coral island, of small dimensions,
inundated at high water, with the exception of two small banks, one
of which is entirely covered by the clump of trees. The other is formed
of dead coral, without any vegetation. The tide was found here to rise
about four and a half feet, the flood setting to the eastward. The
breakers on its weather or southeast side are heavy; and there is an
entrance into the lagoon, having four fathoms depth of water through
it. The lagoon has from six to twelve fathoms in it. A remarkable
coral formation, like a submerged tree, thirty feet in diameter over its
top, was found in the centre of the lagoon, rising to the level of low
water, and having all around it a depth of six fathoms. The currents
set regularly out and in to the lagoon, according to the state of the tide.
In stormy weather the sea must make a complete breach over the reef.

Some boulders of vesicular lava were seen on the coral reef; they
were from twenty to two hundred pounds weight, and were found
among blocks of coral conglomerate.

Birds were seen flying over the island, and on landing we found them
in great numbers and very tame. The frigate-birds, and boobies (sula),
whose nests had before been observed on low bushes, were here found
on the tops of trees fifty feet high. The noddies laid their eggs on the parts
of the island destitute of vegetation. Tern were in great numbers;
their breeding-place was in a thicket on the weather side of the island,
or that which was exposed to the wind and sea, and was remarkable
from the regularity with which the eggs were placed, about three feet
apart, without any nest, and, with but few exceptions, out of many
thousands, each egg lay separately. The colour of the eggs is a dirty
white, mottled with brown. The noise made by these birds when dis-
turbed was almost deafening ; but on making a loud sound, such as the
firing of a gun, their cries would cease for a moment or two, producing
a singular stillness.

Several small turtles, similar to those seen at Honden Island, were
observed here. One of them was taken, but its flesh proved coarse,
and was drier than that of the green turtle: they feed upon a species
of fucus that grows upon the reefs. Here we made observations for
intensity and dip.

TUTUILA. 65

On the 7th, we left Rose Island and stood to the westward, making
at sunrise the island of Manua, which is two thousand five hundred
feet above the level of the sea. It has the form of a regular dome,
rising in most places precipitously from the water to the height of
three or four hundred feet, after which its ascent appears more gentle
and even. It is sixteen miles in circumference, is well covered with
a luxuriant vegetation, and has many cocoa-nut groves on its north-
west side.

On approaching it, Oloosinga was in sight, and shortly after Ofoo.
These two islands lie to the northwestward, at the distance of about
four miles.

The boats were lowered, and sent to trace the shores of the island
of Manua, for the purpose of surveying it; whilst the Vincennes and
the Porpoise passed on each side.

This island is inhabited. The principal settlement is on the north-
west side, and there is anchorage for a small vessel near the shore,
where there is a cove to land in, with but little surf during the fine
season, or from April to November. It has a shore-reef of coral, and
the soundings extend off some distance, eight fathoms being found four
hundred yards from the shore.

Some large blocks of vesicular lava were seen on its northeast
point, but the general structure was a conglomerate of a drab colour,
in horizontal strata; yet the beach was of light-coloured sand, formed
by a mixture of coral and shells.

Our arrival off Manua was opportune. According to the statement
of one of the brothers of the king, who spoke a little English, hostili-
ties had been threatened between the “ missionary” party, and the
“‘devil’s men.” A native missionary, resident in the island, had already
prevented a battle, by telling them that if they wished to fight with
each other they must first kill him. Through his influence and exem-
plary conduct, peace had hitherto been preserved. It was stated that
several “ very bad” white men were on the island, and that they made
“ plenty of fight ;” but that on seeing “ mannawa” (man-of-war), they
had gone into the “ bush.”

Eight of these men had deserted from an English whaler, whose
boat they had stolen. Three of them came alongside of us next day,
clad after the manner of the natives, and were very anxious to be taken
off the island.

The canoes of these islanders were the best we had seen. They
are built of a log, having upon it pieces fastened together, to raise
them sufficiently high. They are thirty or forty feet long, and are

VOL. II. F2 9

66 TUTUILA.

partly covered in at both ends. Some of them are capable of con-
taining twenty or twenty-five men, and are very swift. The chief
usually sits cross-legged on the forward platform or deck. They have
an out-rigger, which is not so far removed from tne canoe, and renders
them more liable to be upset.

Several of the natives came on board. They were a finely-formed
race, and appeared lively and well-disposed, though in a much wilder
state than those of the Society Islands.

Our party, on landing, were immediately surrounded with natives
willing to trade, and calling out for “ bacca” (tobacco), which is in
great request among them. Fish-hooks were also much sought for.
A fowl, a bunch of bamboos, and a dozen of cocoa-nuts were procured
for a small one.

They seemed willing to exchange any thing they had, viz., baskets,
mats, spears, clubs, &c., to obtain these articles. They were not
found altogether honest, though this did not consist in stealing, but in
selling their articles twice over; for after we had made a purchase
from one, another would claim the article as belonging to himself, and
insist on also receiving a price for it.

Near the village are thick stone walls, intended to all appearances
for defence. The houses are elliptical, supported on stout posts, about
four feet high, from which the roof or thatching rises to the height of
twelve or fifteen feet; they are generally erectea on a raised terrace
of stone, two feet above the ground. The floors are covered with
coarse matting.

The king or chief of these islands resides at Oloosinga, in conse-
quence of its being more easily defended.

The dress of the natives consists only of the maro, made of the
leaves of the Draczena, which has a graceful appearance. The leaves
are slit, and form a kind of short petticoat.

The tattooing is of the same kind, as will be described in the general
account of the Samoan Islands.

These islands furnish pigs, fowls, sweet-potatoes, fruit, and some
taro. The vegetation was thought to be more luxuriant than at Tahiti,
and the climate moister.

_ Many running streams were observed coursing down the sides of
the island. When off the eastern end, we were much surprised to see
the natives plunge off the rocks into the heavy surf to reach our boats.

After our party reached the ship, we made sail for Oloosinga,
where I went on shore to see the king or chief, who was old and
decrepit. His name is Lalelah. His brother, and presumptive successor,

PUTUIL A. 67

was with him, and met me as I landed from the boat. His mode of
salutation was by taking my hand and rubbing the back of it against
his nose.

The old man, I was told by the interpreter, could speak a little
English, but I could not understand him. ‘This he attributed to his
age, and would not admit that it was owing to his ignorance of the
language. They led the way to his hut, situated under a mural
precipice twelve hundred feet in height.

The island of Oloosinga is a narrow ledge of rocks, rising nearly
perpendicular on both sides, and is three miles in length. So preci-
pitous is it at its ends, that it is impossible to pass around it on the
rocks. The strip of land is about five hundred yards in width, on
which bread-fruits and cocoa-nuts grow in great profusion and suffi-
cient abundance for all the wants of the natives. They told me that
this island had been chosen as a place of safety, since the other
became unsettled in consequence of the wars of the Christian and
Devil’s parties; and that the island of Manua had formerly been the
residence of the king, but that he found himself unsafe there, and had
taken up his abode at Oloosinga, on its northwestern side.

His house was elliptical in form, and thirty feet long, erected on a
well-flagged terrace of stone, about four feet above the ground. It
was well shaded with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, and was
supported around by ten stout posts, with three others in the centre
reaching the top. The roof came down within three and a half feet
of the ground, and projected as eaves about eighteen inches or two
feet. In the centre the hut was fifteen feet high and well thatched.

The whole floor was ordered to be spread with fine mats, which
were carefully unrolled, and laid over the coarser ones on the floor.
The king then seated himself in the centre, and desired me to take
a seat between himself and brother. Shortly afterwards two large
wooden trays were brought in, filled with cooked bread-fruit and
covered over with leaves. One of these was placed before me, when
the king made a long speech, giving me welcome and offering food to
eat. I was then desired to hand some to the king and his brother, and
to others who were pointed out tome. This I did, but unfortunately
continued my task, and handed it to one of the Kanakas, or common
people, who were sitting close around us; much displeasure was
evinced, accompanied with angry looks. I now looked around for
my men, but they were out of sight, on their return to the boat. In
order to make the best of my situation, I asked what was meant, and
feigned to be quite ignorant of having given any offence. After a

68 TUTUILA.

minute they were apparently appeased, and pleasant looks were —
restored.

They handed round a shell containing cocoanut-oil to dip the
bread-fruit in, and another containing salt water. After we had eaten,
they began a careful examination of my clothes, and appeared much
pleased with the buttons. My pocket-handkerchief was taken out of
my pocket, and spread on the mat to be examined by the king. His
brother took off my hat and put it on the top of his large bushy head.
They then had ava made, of which I could not partake, after seeing
the process of making it. It is first chewed by the women and thrown
into a large bowl; water is added to it, and it is then strained through
leaves. This was partaken of by them all, while they gave me a
fresh cocoa-nut.

They were becoming more familiar every moment, and it was
getting late, so I thought it time to make a move. I therefore rose up,
and was followed by the natives, in number upwards of a hundred,
including the king and his brother, to the boat. I looked carefully
around for arms, but saw none among them. My boat was aground:
the king, his brother, and several others, got into it, saying they must
have some presents. They seemed disposed to resist, and showed a
determination to contest our getting off. I on the other hand was
determined to get rid of them, and peaceably if I could; I therefore
ordered the boat’s crew to arm themselves, and drive every one of the
natives from the boat, at the same time intimating to the king to use
his authority, which I found, however, existed only in name. We thus
succeeded in getting clear of the crowd, until we had no more than
eight left; to each of these I presented a small fish-hook, and ordered
them to get into the water, which was about a foot deep, and go; this
they did, one by one. At last came the king and his brother’s turn, to
whom I presented, with great ceremony, first a small and then a large
fish-hook ; after which they left me, apparently in great good humour.
I was heartily glad to be rid of such rapacious troublesome fellows so
easily and without a fight. We then pushed our boat off. When just
beyond the reef, in taking up our anchor, the boat had the appearance
of returning again on shore. On seeing this, a great shout was set up
by the natives, and one of them immediately advanced with my
powder-flask. He said it had been taken by a boy out of the boat, and
had been dropped into the water, to be picked up after we had shoved
off. I gave the man a small present for his apparent honesty; but I
am inclined to kelieve it was the fear of detection, and the belief that
we had missed the article, and were returning for it, that induced them

TUTUILA. 69

to give it up so willingly. It was some time before he could be made
to understand what the reward was for, but when he found it was for
his honesty, he laughed heartily.

This having excited our suspicions, the boat’s crew informed me
that a canoe that was paddling off had been alongside of the gig, and
that they felt satisfied that the natives had taken something from us.
It being in our course towards the ship, we gave chase, and being
favoured by the wind, soon overtook the canoe, to the great fright of
the two natives, who were paddling with all their might, and whose
eyes were full of tears when overtaken. They had nothing at all in
their canoe, and after examination it proved we had lost nothing. To
console them for this alarm, I gave them a few trifles, and they
became easy ‘and cheerful.

The coral reef around this island was different from any I had
hitherto seen. It consisted of two regular shelves, the outer one from
fifty to sixty feet wide, and the inner in places measuring one hundred
and forty feet. A distinct mark of high water was measured along
the beach, and found to be twenty feet above the ordinary sea-tide,
which has from four to five feet rise.

The rock at Manua was volcanic conglomerate, with large blocks
of vesicular lava lying loose on the coral beach.

Before sunset the boats returned to the ship, having completed the
survey of both islands.

Ofoo lies to the westward of Oloosinga. There is a passage for
boats of about a fourth of a mile in width between them, and anchor-
age on the western side. Ofoo resembles Oloosinga; and, from the
accounts we received, it has but few inhabitants: those of Oloosinga
having made war upon them, and killed the “natives” off. There is a
small and comparatively low islet off its western end, near which there
is an anchorage. After sunset we bore away for Tutuila, which can
be seen in fine weather from these islands.

The temperature in the passage from Tahiti to the Samoan Islands
had increased from 77°6° to 81:11° in the air; and that of the water
from 79-°6° to 81:6°.

As it was my intention to make a thorough examination of this
sroup, I resolved, in order to accomplish it in the least possible time,
to divide the squadron, so as to put all the remaining islands under
examination at the same time. The island of Tutuila being the most
central, and, from the information I had obtained, the best position for
my astronomical observations, I selected it for the Vincennes. That
of Upolu was reserved for the Peacock and Flying-Fish when they
should arrive; and in case of their being detained longer than I anti-

70 TUTUILA.,

cipated, I should be ready to take up the survey of the latter, or assist.
in completing it. The Porpoise was ordered to examine the island of

Savaii; and one of the naturalists, Dr. Pickering, was directed to join

her, for the purpose of exploring the interior of the island during her

operations in its vicinity. Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold was

therefore directed to land him for the purpose, and take him on board

when the survey should be concluded.*

On the 10th of October, we had light winds, in consequence of
which we did not reach Tutuila that day. At daylight on the 11th we
were near its eastern end, and off the island of Anuu.

About eight miles to windward of the harbour of Pago-pago, we
were boarded by several canoes, in which were some natives, with a
white man, by name William Gray, whom I retained as interpreter
during our stay here, and found of much use.

The island of Tutuila is high, broken, and of volcanic appearance.
It is seventeen miles long, and its greatest width is five miles. The
harbour of Pago-pago penetrates into the centre, and almost divides
the island into two parts. It is less varied in surface than the Society
Islands; and its highest peak, that of Matafoa, was found to be two
thousand three hundred and twenty-seven feet above the sea. The
spurs and ridges that form the high land are like those of Tahiti:
precipitous, sharp-edged, and frequently rise in mural walls from the
water to a height of three or four hundred feet, showing the bare
basaltic rock. Above this height, the surface is covered with a
luxuriant vegetation to the very top of the mountains; the cocoa-nut
tree and tree-fern give the principal character to this beautiful scenery.
Dead coral is seen along the shores, above high-water mark.

The harbour of Pago-pago is one of the most singular in all the
Polynesian isles. It is the last point at which one would look for a
place of shelter: the coast near it is peculiarly rugged, and has no
appearance of indentations, and the entrance being narrow, is not
easily observed. Its shape has been compared to a variety of articles:
that which it most nearly resembles is a retort. It is surrounded on all
sides by inaccessible mural precipices, from eight hundred to one
thousand feet in height. The lower parts of these rocks are bare, but
they are clothed above with luxuriant vegetation. So impassable did
the rocky barrier appear in all but two places, that the harbour was
likened to the valley of Rasselas changed into a lake. The two breaks
in the precipice are at the head of the harbour and at the Pilot’s Cove.
The harbour is of easy access, and its entrance, which is about a third
of a mile in width, is well marked by the Tower Rock and Devil’s Point.

* For orders, see Appendix V.

TUTUILA. 7]

About three miles to the southward, off the mouth of the harbour,
there is a coral bank half a mile long, on which the sea breaks in
stormy weather: the least depth of water found on it was four and a
half fathoms; the depth increases to the eastward, towards the island
of Anuu.

As we arrived off the harbour the wind grew light, and finally came
out ahead, thus compelling us to beat in to our anchorage, under the
direction of Edmund Foxall, a white pilot. He usually comes off to
vessels when within two or three miles of the harbour, on a signal
being made. We made many tacks before we reached our anchorage,
which was in deep water, twenty-nine fathoms. About half a mile
from the entrance of the harbour, it bends at right angles. In this
position, surrounded by cliffs, the firing of a gun produces a remarkable
reverberation, resembling loud peals of thunder.

- We were surrounded, as soon as we entered, by a large number of
canoes, filled with natives, who all seemed delighted with the ship and
the number of men on board. When we had moored, one of the
principal chiefs, whose name was Toa, was admitted on board; he
was an athletic, muscular man, of large frame, about forty years of
age, with a pleasant expression of countenance; he manifested great

7° YUTUILA.

pleasure in welcoming us. He began by telling me, through the
interpreter, that he was a missionary; that he had formerly been a
ereat thief, and a doer of many bad acts, but being now a missionary,
he was reformed and stole no more. He told this with such an open
expression of countenance and so much simplicity, that I could scarcely
forbear smiling. After I had finished asking him questions, he con-
tinued eyeing me from head to foot, as if determining my dimensions.
I told the interpreter to ask him why he looked at me so intently. He
replied, that he had a coat on shore that was too tight for him about
the arms and chest, and he believed it would fit me: if so, he should
be glad to exchange it for the jacket I had on. Not being inclined to
this exchange, I ordered a small hatchet to be given him. This
gratified him much, and he instantly went over the ship’s side to show
it to his friends. This same Toa is chief of the village of Fungasar,
about. three miles distant from the harbour, on the north side of the
island. He learns to read and write, being taught by some of the
small children, and attends school regularly. He became of great use
to us, and was a constant visiter. During one of his visits on board,
he espied some red umbrellas among the presents, and from that time
was continually endeavouring to obtain one for his wife, and brought
many articles in the hope of inducing us to part with it in exchange
for them.

The day after our arrival a place was chosen for our observatory,
and the tents and instruments were landed. . Understanding that I
wanted to see the sun and stars, I was told by Mr. Murray, the white
residents, and natives, that I should have little weather for observations
for the next fortnight, which proved literally true with the exception
of the last two days.

The geological character of this island is similar to that of Manua;
it has only a shore-reef of coral, and soundings extend some distance
from it. It has many desirable ports or bays on its north side, where
vessels may obtain wood, water, and supplies. The best and safest
port, however, is that of Pago-pago, on its south side, which affords a
safe harbour for vessels to overhaul, and where supplies may be
obtained in abundance.

Tutuila is thickly settled round its shores, and particularly at its
southwestern end: this is lower and more easily cultivated than the
eastern, which is high and rugged. The only communication is by the
sea-shore, the hills being too precipitous and difficult of ascent to pass
over.

The men of Tutuila are a remarkably tall fine-looking set, with

TUTUILA. 73

intelligent and pleasing countenances. In comparison with the Tahi-
tians, they would be called sedate.

The women are far from being good-looking, with the exception of
some of the younger ones. They are remarkably domestic and
virtuous, exhibiting a strange contrast to those of Tahiti. Here there
is no indiscriminate intercourse, the marriage tie is respected, and
parents are extremely fond of their offspring. ‘The inhabitants are dis-
posed to be hospitable to strangers, although they expect remuneration
for it. Travelling is generally believed to be safe throughout the island
of Tutuila, and the natives, as far as our experience goes, are not the
blood-thirsty race they have been reported to be. The unfavourable
estimate of their character has, I presume, been derived from those
who first knew them, and particularly from their attack upon the expe-
dition of La Perouse. Of this conflict I obtained the following
particulars from the Rev. Mr. Murray, who had them from an old
man, who was a witness of the affray. The latter is the only individual
now alive in the settlement who was present when it occurred, and his
testimony was corroborated by others who had heard of it from those
who witnessed the scene. ,

On the morning of the massacre, the vessels stood in towards the
land. About noon the boats went ashore, as recorded by La Perouse,
and while on shore, a number of canoes, belonging to the island of
Upolu (to which Tutuila was at the time subject), went from the shore,
and proceeded directly to the vessels.) When these canoes were
alongside, a young man in one of them laid his hand on an iron bolt in
some part of the ships, with the intention, it is supposed, of stealing it.
He was fired upon by the French. The ball passed through his
shoulders, and mortally wounded him. The natives, on seeing the
effect of the shot on one of their number, were greatly enraged, and
immediately left the vessels, and hastened to the shore, where they
found the boats that had gone to get water. On reaching them, they
began the attack, which resulted in the massacre of M. De Langle, and
of those who were with him on shore. When the natives began this
attack, the great body of the French were absent from their boats;
some were in the bushes gathering plants, and others talking to the
females. On the commencement of the disturbance, they all rushed
towards their boats, and the confusion became general. The minute
circumstances of the affray, farther than the above, cannot now be
ascertained from the natives. They are, however, very clear in refer-
ence to the cause, and to those who were the actors in it, viz., the
natives of Upolu. The Tutuilians maintain that they endeavoured to
save the lives of the French ; and, on the following day, as soon as they

VOL. II. G 10

74 TUTUILA.

dared to venture from the mountains, whither they had fled during the
massacre, they collected the bodies, which they found in a state of
nudity, dressed them in native cloth, and buried them in the beach, as
they were accustomed to bury their own chiefs. The actors in the
massacre proceeded at once to Upolu, which will account for their
having been afterwards seen there, and recognised by the French. Our
inquiries relative to the spot where they had buried the bodies, were not
satisfactorily answered. How the carpenter’s son escaped is not known.
He is said to be still living at a village on the eastern part of the
island. There appears to be mention made of a boy among_ the
missing, in La Perouse’s account. Levasii, a chief of the district of
Faleletai, was at the massacre of the party of La Perouse. He was then
a boy of thirteen years of age. He remembered the occurrence, and
that three of the Papalangi were killed.

The perpetrators of the deed were some young chiefs from the dis-
trict, who were on a “ malanga” to Tutuila. Atthat time Aana district
had the rule, or was the “Malo” party, and domineered over the
inhabitants of the other islands and districts.

The village of Pago-pago contains about thirty dwellings, and a
council-house, which is in use as a church, until the large one they
are engaged in building shall be finished. Every village has a council-
house for the entertainment of visiters, and the accommodation of
meetings.

This island is under several chiefs, each of whom rules over a
town, district, or bay. The present chief of Pago-pago is Mowna,
the adopted son of the last chief, Pomale, who died not long since,
leaving an only son, also called Pomale, who from his great modesty
lost his inheritance. Mowna was more crafty than Pomale, and
understocd well his rival’s character. After the death of the old chief,
these two young men, about the same age, became candidates for the
succession. Mowna, through his intrigues, succeeded in getting the
whole family together to decide between them. Both Mowna and
Pomale were present, the former appearing dejected, silent, and
willing to leave the decision to the meeting; whilst Pomale, when
asked who should be chief, said with his usual modesty that he was in
favour of Mowna, who was accordingly made chief. Mowna, how-
ever, Is now so in name only, for Pomale rules in fact. This arises
from his good character, and the influence he derives from the mis-
sionaries, of whom he 1s one of the most active and pious supporters,
and withal a great preacher. So great is the confidence Mr. Murray
has in Pomale, that he is frequently left to take charge of the congre-
gation, during the absence of Mr. Murray in another part of the island.

TUTUILA. 15

The greatest restraint on the conduct of the chiefs, appears to be
the fear of losing the good name of their ancestors, and of not handing
it down to posterity pure and unspotted. This feeling seems to govern
their conduct, and from the information I received, may be made use
of as an appeal to them, to avoid doing evil, and to do right.

The missionary, the Rev. Mr. Murray, deserves the greatest credit
for this state of things. He has unbounded influence over the natives,
and deserves it. The ten commandments are the common law of the
island, wherever Christianity has taken root, and any infringement of
them is surely punished ;—the guilty persons being put out of the
church, and denied the privilege of attending worship. They are
looked upon as having fallen, and are consequently avoided. This
fear of public opinion, I was informed, was found to be sufficient to
deter them from the commission of crimes and immoral practices.

The tapa or rugs worn by distinguished chiefs, were preserved, and
were formerly much venerated by them. Since the introduction of
Christianity, however, such has been its influence that they will now
readily part with any thing of the kind. Pomale was induced to let
us have those in his possession, and also exchanged the “ war spirit”
mat for a small present for his wife.

On the 17th, our friend Toa gave us an invitation to visit him at
his town of Fungasar, on the north side of the island. It is situated
on the next bay to that now called Massacre Bay, where De Langle
was killed. The path across the island is a very difficult one to
travel; it leads up through the valley, and across the dividing ridge,
which is quite precipitous. The rain which had fallen made it very
slippery, and the journey was fatiguing to those not accustomed to this
kind of walking.

I was much struck here with the manliness and intelligence of the
natives, and with their frank open expression of countenance. The
colour of their complexion is rather darker than that of the natives
of Tahiti. The outlines of face and figure are very like those we had
left, their hair and eyes black, and their teeth good and white. Some
of them had frizzled hair, but it was generally straight.

Just before arriving at the village, we were met by Toa, and some of
nis relations and attendants, who welcomed us to his village, saluting
me by rubbing his nose with my hand; this is the usual custom.

He ordered a pig, taro, bread-fruit, &c., &c., for our entertainment.
These were cooked in the universal Polynesian mode, by being
covered up in a hole with hot stones. We were soon told that the
feast was ready, but having had some experience of their cooking, we

76 TUTUILA.

desired it might remain in the oven a little while longer. Their usual -
custom is to take it out the moment that the taro is cooked, and from
daily practice they are well acquainted with the time required to cook
it. This is scarcely sufficient to give the pig time to be warmed
through. Our request prevailed, and in the course of half an hour we
were summoned to the council-house or fale-tele, where strangers are
always entertained. We were shown our seats, on one side of a circle,
while Toa, with his family and friends, occupied the other. The
mats, except one, were not very clean. The pig, which must have
weighed one hundred pounds, was brought in, and laid with the taro
and bread-fruit on banana-leaves. A butcher’s knife was all that we
possessed to carve it with. The whole village, old and young, men,
women, and children, who were waiting in anxious expectation for
their share, now surrounded us, and made it uncomfortable to eat,
with so many hungry expectants; I made haste, therefore, to divide
it, and with it they soon dispersed. The taro was exceedingly well
cooked, dry, and farinaceous. The bread-fruit they said was too
young, and not being considered good by them, they objected to
giving us any of it, but did not hesitate to eat it themselves. A pig is
a great treat to them, for although they have plenty, they prefer selling
to eating them.

All kinds of provisions in these islands are enhancing in value, anc
will continue to do so. It is remarkable how the prices fluctuate. On
some days provisions of all kinds will be exceedingly cheap, and almost
any article will be taken in exchange; and then again nothing can be
found to please the natives, or induce them to trade, although the
quantity for sale is equally as great. It was not a little amusing to see
the natives sitting whole days to obtain the price of their fowl or pig,
and persisting in their refusal of the offer made; and this was some-
times done by a large number at the same time, all remaining true to
each other until their poe or food became exhausted, when they would
take the earliest opportunity of disposing of their different parcels.

In the grove near the village, we saw several piles of stones. I was
told they were the graves in which they formerly buried the dead, just
below the surface. On the top were placed stones, forming a high
pile. Now they bury their dead in graves about three feet deep, and
enclose them with the Draczena, which grows rapidly, and forms a
pretty and neat trellis.

Toa became quite communicative, and as he showed me about his
village, he told me, through the interpreter, that before the missionaries
came, the chiefs all had their “ aitu” or spirits, which they worshipped,

TUTUILA. "7

and that they felt themselves obliged to do every thing they com-
manded. His aitu were fresh-water eels, which he constantly fed in
the brook near the village. I visited it, and requested him to catch
one, which he attempted to do; but after a long search, turning over
large stones, and examining holes, he was unsuccessful. He said there
were many in it formerly, and quite tame; but since he had embraced
Christianity, they had all been caught and destroyed. On farther ques-
tioning him, he told me that he had himself eaten them; and that
formerly if any one had touched, disturbed, or attempted to catch one,
he should have killed him immediately. He said his eels were very
good to eat, and was sorry he could not find any more; and laughed
very heartily when I spoke to him about eating his aitu. I mention
this circumstance to show the powerful effect the Christian religion
has had upon the ancient customs of this people.

After much persuasion, they were induced to sing some of their old
war-songs. Mr. Drayton wrote one down as a specimen of their
music ; the words were written by one of the interpreters.

fi na-mo-to le Vai vau- fa lau - -ua tai mai le ou lu.

To the above they sing a kind of second, with very correct harmony.
They do not seem to have any particular air among them, and in sing-
ing the above, they did not sound the same notes every time. All their
music sounds alike, and the above will give a good idea of it. A trans-
lation of the song was made by the same interpreter, and is as follows.

A chief of Samoa attacks an enemy on another island and conquers.
After the victors have embarked safely for their island, they sing as
follows:

“Keep her away, and mind the helm.”
And when they get home, the people sing,—

“We are glad you have come to your island of plenty,
We have waited a long time for our chief and canoes.”
G2

78 TUTUILA.

Toa, after his unsuccessful search for his favourite eels, went into the ©
brook for a bath, which he told me he very frequently did during the
day; and it was delightful to see the pleasure he took in it. The
natives, indeed, are almost constantly in the water, and, consequently,
very cleanly in their persons. Finding that it occupied too much of
their thoughts on the Sabbath, bathing on that day has been forbidden.

This village contained about forty houses, of a large and commo-
dious size, and about two hundred inhabitants, a number of whom
were absent on a visit to Upolu.

Towards evening, we took our leave of Toa, thanking him warmly
for his kindness; we were escorted to the outside of the village by his
friends and relations, whilst Toa himself accompanied us to Pago-
pago.

The natives have no fixed time for meals, eating whenever they feel
hungry. Their food consists of pork, fish, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts,
bananas, &c., but principally of taro. All of these are produced in
abundance. Water is their common drink, and, notwithstanding
cocoa-nuts are so abundant, the milk is seldom used: the trouble of
procuring them is too much for them. ‘They use ava made from the
Piper mythisticum, and it is the only intoxicating drink they have.*
It is never used to excess, although old and young, male and female,
are very fond of it. The taste, to one unaccustomed to it, is not
pleasant, being somewhat similar to that of rhubarb and magnesia.
Their mode of preparing it is the same as has already been described.

They sleep on the large coarse mats with which they always cover
the floors of their houses. Over these they spread coloured tapas,
some of which are also used for nets of protection against the numerous
musquitoes. For a pillow they use a piece of bamboo supported on
small legs. ‘Their hair is frequently shorn close, and coral, lime, or
ashes sprinkled over it to destroy the vermin, which are generated in
great numbers in their tapas and mats.

According to old Toa, a native is in a comfortable condition when
he has a good house; a well-made visiting canoe; a neat, handy, large
and well-formed woman for a wife; a taro-patch with a good fence;
cocoa-nut, and bread-fruit trees, with a reasonable number of pigs.

The women are now admitted to the same privileges as the men.
The chiefs have still great power over the people, although the influ-
ence of the missionaries has tended greatly to diminish it. Most of
the people look back to the days when polygamy existed with regret,

* The ava does not, according to the whites, intoxicate in the same manner as ardent
spirits, but produces a temporary paralysis, tremors,.and a confused feeling about the head,
indistinctness and distortion of vision, somewhat resembling the effect of opium.

TUTUILA. "9

and cannot understand why they are restricted to one wife. They say,
«Why should God be so unreasonable as to require them to give up
all tneir wives but one for his convenience?” They pay just attention
to their religious duties ; morning and evening prayers are always said,
as is grace before their meals, and with a devotion rarely to be seen
among civilized men.

Their amusements seem to be few; their books are constantly before
them, and a great portion of their time is employed over them. Old
gray-headed men may be seen poring over the alphabet, and taught by
some of the youngest of the family. The employment of the men is to
cultivate and weed the taro, and to take care of the fences; they also
make sennit for their houses, and canoes for fishing. ‘The women are
engaged in making mats, and the boys and girls play, and wait upon
their seniors.

Next to study, fishing is their great employment. This is performed
by driving the fish towards the nets in shoal water, where they are
easily caught. ‘The cast-net is also used.

The only amusement we saw, is a gamescalled lafo-tupe, which is
played with cocoa-nut shells, and resembles shuffle-board.

Mr. Murray is an amiable as well as a truly pious man, and the
natives have imitated the example set by him. He studiously avoids
any intercourse with them in the way of trade or barter, except so
much as is necessary for the provision of his own family, and devotes
his whole time to preaching and teaching the gospel. He is one of
the missionaries engaged in translating the Bible, many parts of which
are now completed, and extensively used by the natives, many of whom
read and write well.

Their observance of the Sabbath is very strict; and it is impossible
to get a native to do any thing whatsoever on that day, but perform
his religious duties. ‘They attend church regularly. In Mr. Murray’s
congregation there are about thirty communicants, and nearly one
thousand attendants on public worship. They come from many of the
surrounding villages. Mr. Murray has been here about three years,
and the native preachers nine or ten; he is well acquainted with the
difficulties of his station, but seemed to feel assured that his exertions
were about being crowned with success. He represented to me that
the natives were very tractable, and desired exceedingly to be taught;
that they had much application, seemed to comprehend many things,
and were certainly not surpassed in intelligence by any of the natives
of Polynesia.

Polygamy, which formerly was practised to a great extent, still
exists among those who have not been converted.

80 TUTUILA.

Circumcision is practised among them.

They carry their children in the same singular manner on the hip,
as was shown in wood-cut of the low archipelago. They are early
betrothed, without regard to age, the girl being saa, or tabooed, until
of marriageable age. During the intervening time, all kinds of native
property are accumulated, such as mats, &c., for the bridal day.
Two days previous to it, the inhabitants of the district are gathered
together for feasting and dancing. On the third day, the bride is
produced before the assembled multitude, and the ceremony attendant
on marriage that was customary among the Jews performed. After
the marriage had been consummated, the dowry was exhibited, and
each article being held up it was proclaimed by whom it was pre-
sented; the multitude, having consumed all the eatables, and exhausted
their strength in rioting and debauchery, dispersed.

Infanticide has never been practised on this island.

I have seldom seen a more devout or attentive collection of people
than I observed at times in the church meeting, which was held in the
council-house at Pago-pago; the new church was undergoing altera-
tions; for on its being completed, it was found it would not accommo-
date the congregation, when they determined to enlarge it.

Upon the conclusion of a long service, they were observed to divide
themselves into three parties; one remaining in the church, and the
other two repairing to different buildings. The object of this was, that
they might listen to instructions from their native teachers explanatory
of the sermon, and also receive exhortations to put away all that is
unbecoming to the Christian character. The afternoon is employed
in further explanations and examinations by the missionaries. ‘The
native missionaries have also meetings on Fridays.

Their mode of singing hymns is peculiar, the whole mass joining
in some parts, with all the lungs they could muster. This exercise
appeared to afford them great delight. The congregation were mostly
dressed in tapas, or clothed in one sort of garment or other; but the
person who attracted our attention most, was the consort of Pomale.
From being the wife of the most influential personage, she had
received more presents from us than any other; and she endeavoured,
on this occasion, to display on her person the greater part, if not all,
that she had thus acquired. These consisted of a red calico gown,
four or five petticoats of different colours, woollen socks, green slip-
pers, cap and bonnet, a large plaid blanket shawl, and a pair of polar
gloves, the whole surmounted by a flaming red silk umbrella—and this
with the thermometer at 87°! It was difficult to keep our eyes off
her during the service, and before the end of it, all her finery became

TUTUILA. 81

awry. The other natives also seemed to have the desire of exhibiting
their acquisitions, though these consisted frequently of no more than a
vest, or a pair of pantaloons, without shirt, or occasionally of a long-
skirted coat, without either of the former garments, so that a small
roll of tapa was needed to cover their nether parts.

Some unauthorized attempts were made to induce the natives to
break the missionary laws, by offers of great value in their eyes; they
were told the missionaries would not see them. On understanding
which, they pointed to the heavens, and replied, “ There missionary
see.” This was conclusive, and a just and severe rebuke.

The Peacock and Flying-Fish again joined us on the 18th of
October, in eight days from Papieti. Orders were at once given them
to proceed to Upolu, to commence the survey of that island. (See
Appendix VI.) They did not sail, however, until the 20th, having been
detained by the winds. The harbour of Pago-pago, though easy of
access, is extremely difficult to leave, in consequence of the southeast
trade-winds blowing directly in, and rendering it necessary to make
short tacks. Indeed, a vessel no sooner gets headway on one tack,
than it is found necessary to tack again. The sea is often heavy at
the mouth of the harbour, and the shore is lined with a narrow coral
reef all around it. I was glad to see the Peacock safe outside, after
beating about four hours.

During our stay on this island, the whole was examined, the harbour
surveyed, and the principal heights determined. 'Tide-gauges were
kept on the north and south sides, and the observations for magnetic
dip, variation, and intensity, made. The temperature during our stay
of fourteen days varied from 73° to 88°; the mean temperature
was 80°50°.

The climate of Tutuila is mild and agreeable, particularly at Pago-
pago, where the temperature is lower than it is elsewhere on the
island, in consequence of its generally being overshadowed with
clouds that hang on the high land. There is usually a fine breeze,
which sets in about ten o’clock, and continues until sunset. The
nights being calm, much dew falls in fine weather. We had little
fair weather during our stay, and the prognostication of the natives
proved too true, respecting the difficulty of seeing the sun and stars.
The wind at times was very strong, almost a gale, accompanied by
light rain and mist. I was informed that there is a good deal of rain
during the year, but seldom such a continuance of it as we experienced.
There does not appear to be any particular rainy season, but they are
liable to these high winds during the winter months, or from October

VOL, Il. 11

82 TUTUILA.

to March.* I obtained from the pilot a register of the weather from
January, 1839, till October of the same year, which will show more
clearly the state of the climate. This will be found in Appendix VII.

In our explorations, nearly all the villages of this island vere visited
by some of the officers of the squadron, and from their report they.
much resemble each other. Those of Fagaitua and Leone, on the
southern coast, are the largest, and are more of the Devil’s towns than
the others. One of their customs is truly savage. They seldom use
pork as a food, consequently it is a great rarity with them; but at
intervals of several months the villagers assemble at a feast, at which
thirty or forty hogs are killed, when they gormandize on them for four
or five days, or as long as the food lasts. The whole is eaten, entrails
and all. Fish and taro are the principal food, and large numbers of the
natives may be seen fishing off the coast in fine weather. The kind of
fish usually caught are mullet.

There is a large kind of worm which they esteem a great delicacy,
and which is eaten with much relish. It is impossible to see them
sucking down the entrails of the biche-de-mar, holithuria, and echina,
without disgust. They also eat many of the shell-fish that are found
on the shore.

The temperature found on the top of Matafoa, at the altitude of two
thousand three hundred and fifty-nine feet, was at 4 pr. m., 69°4°, whilst
that on board the ship was 79-5°.

We made an endeavour here to search the reefs at night for shells,
with flambeaux or torchlight, after the manner of the Chain Islanders,
by which means it is said that many species of shells are taken, which
are never seen by daylight. We cannot vouch for this being the case,
our experiment not having succeeded. The leaves of the cocoa-nut
were either too green or too wet to burn. If success really attends this
method, it is a singular trait in the economy of mollusca, which are
generally supposed to be partial to daylight. It was my determination
to make another trial, under more favourable circumstances; but from
our constant occupation and fatigue of the crew in the daytime, we
were unable to renew the experiment.

A few days before leaving Pago-pago, Mr. Murray brought to my
notice the account of a murder that was supposed to have been com-
mitted on a foreigner at the west end of the island, for the sake of the
little property he had about him. The report, however, appeared to me
to be too vague to authorize any delay for the purpose of making an

* During eleven days of our stay, the quantity of rain that fell was 46. inches.

TUT EA. 83

examination into it; and finding the man was reported to be a runaway
convict, I had no right to interfere in the affair, and therefore, took no
steps to inquire into it.

On the 7th of November, 1837, this harbour exhibited one of those
remarkable phenomena of the oscillation of the tidal wave. The obser-
vations made on it are extracted from the letter of a missionary
resident at Pago-pago, to the Rev. Mr. Mills, of Upolu, who obligingly
gave me permission to copy them. They will be found in Appendix
Vine

The weather during the preceding evening was boisterous, with fre-
quent squalls from the east, which continued till 7 a. m., from which
time the day was cloudy, with frequent light showers. After 5 p. m., it
continued to rain until ten o’clock at night. On the 8th, the tide con-
tinued to ebb and flow in an irregular manner. The day was fine and
very warm. ‘This phenomenon does not appear to have been observed
at any other place in the Samoan Group, but was experienced, as will
be noticed hereafter, at the Group Hawaii.

The peculiar formation of the harbour of Pago-pago, would make it
more likely to be observed there than elsewhere. The ordinary rise
of the tide is no more than four and a half feet, and neither before,
during the continuance, nor after this phenomenon, were any shocks

of earthquakes observed in any part of the group where missionaries
are settled.

NAVIGATOR CLUBS, ETC,

CHAPTER 1.

CONTENTS.

DEPARTURE OF THE VINCENNES FROM TUTUILA—HER NARROW ESCAPE FROM
WRECK — APPEARANCE OF UPOLU—MESSAGE FROM CAPTAIN HUDSON —CASE OF
TUVAI—COUNCIL OF THE CHIEFS— ARGUMENTS IN BEHALF OF TUVAI—CAPTAIN
HUDSON'S REPLY—DECISION OF THE CASE OF TUVAI—HIS BEHAVIOUR—COMPLAINTS
OF THE NATIVES AGAINST WHALERS—PEA’S VISIT TO TUVAI—OUTRAGES OF
OPOTUNO—VISIT TO MR. WILLIAMS—INTERVIEW WITH MALIETOA—HIS DAUGHTER
—REQUEST FOR A COUNCIL OF CHIEFS—THE VINCENNES ORDERED INTO PORT—
SURVEYING PARTIES—LAKE OF LAUTO—ITS LEGEND—SUPERSTITION REGARDING IT
—MOUNT TOFUA—SUBTERRANEAN STREAMS—GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF UPOLU—
STREAMS OF LAVA—CAVERNS—SWALLOWS AT SANGA—WATERFALLS — GIMBLET
RELIGION—ATTEMPT TO CAPTURE OPOTUNO—FONO, OR COUNCIL, OF HIGH CHIEFS—
ITS OBJECT—MR. J. WILLIAMS RECOGNISED AS CONSUL—REGULATIONS DISCUSSED
AND ADOPTED —DEMAND FOR OPOTUNO—FONO ADJOURNED—ITS SECOND MEETING—
SPEECH OF MALIETOA’S ORATOR—REWARD OFFERED FOR THE APPREHENSION OF
OPOTUNO—TERRITORIAL DIVISIONS OF UPOLU—TYRANNY OF TAMAFAGO—WAR OF
AANA—DESOLATION OF THAT DISTRICT—ISLAND OF MANONO—ISLAND OF APOLIMA
—PROCEEDINGS OF THE PORPOISE AT SAVAII—DR. PICKERING AND LIEUTENANT
MAURY LAND THERE—SURVEY OF THE COAST OF SAVAII—NATIVE MISSIONARY AT
SALACHUA—FELIALUPO—ASAU—BAY OF MATAATUA—PECULIARITIES OF ITS INHABI-
TANTS — SAPAPALE— DR. PICKERING’S JOURNEY IN THE INTERIOR OF SAVAII—
CURIOSITY OF THE NATIVES— FISHING ON THE CORAL REEF — DESCRIPTION OF
SAVAII—ITS PEAK—ITS INTERIOR—ITS WANT OF STREAMS—ITS CORAL REEF—ITS
SOIL-THE PORPOISE PROCEEDS TO TUTUILA, AND THENCE TO UPOLU—REUNION OF
THE SQUADRON—REVIEW OF THE MARINES—EARTHQUAKES.

(85)

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ot

CHAPTER IV.
UPOLU—MANONO-—SAVAII.
1839,

Tue surveys of the island of Tutuila having been completed by tne
23d November, we made preparations for our departure, and on the
25th we weighed anchor. In leaving the harbour we had a narrow
escape from wreck; the almost constant southeast wind, which is fair
to a vessel entering the bay, and makes it easy of access, is ahead on
going out, which renders egress difficult; it therefore becomes neces-
sary to make frequent tacks, and a vessel must be well manceuvred to
escape accident, for to miss stays would be almost certain to bring
about shipwreck. When we beat out, the wind was light, and it failed
altogether just as we reached the most dangerous part of the channel ;
we were in consequence brought within an oar’s length of the reef, on
which a heavy surf was breaking. The moment was a trying one,
and the event doubtful; all were at their stations, and not a word was
spoken. Of my own feelings on the occasion I have no very precise
recollection; merely remembering that I felt as if I breathed more
freely after the crisis had passed and we were in safety.

The afternoon was fine, and we sailed along the southern shore of
the island, admiring its diversified surface, its luxuriant groves, and
the smiling villages that crown its bays. Where the valleys come out
from between the ridges to the shore, there is usually a level plain
extending inwards for a couple of miles; these plains are occupied
for the most part by groves of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit, beneath
whose shade lie the dwellings of the natives. Many of the inhabitants
were abroad in their canoes, employed in fishing; some of them
scarcely seemed to notice the ship, passing them rapidly with all sail
set, while others appeared to regard her with intense curiosity. In
the evening we had much lightning, but no thunder.

(87)

88 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVATI.

The distance between Tutuila and Upolu, of thirty-six miles, was
soon passed, and in the morning we were delighted with the view of
the latter island as we ran down its coast to the westward. It appears
much richer and more fruitful than the other islands of this group, and
may be described as of moderate height, rising gradually in a succes-
sion of ridges from a low shore; here and there, broad and fertile
valleys are seen, with numerous streams falling from the mountains in
cascades. The eastern portion of the island is much more rugged than
the western; the main ridge runs east and west, and ridges or spurs
run back to it from the northern coast in a southeast direction.
Between these lateral ridges are broad and fertile valleys, decreasing
in width as they recede from the coast. The shore is lined with a
coral reef, which is now and then interrupted by channels, and forms
snug and convenient harbours.

At noon we descried the Peacock lying in the harbour of Apia, and
shortly afterwards I received a message from Captain Hudson, saying
that my presence was required on shore. In the hope that it was not
a business of such a nature as to cause detention, I left the Vincennes
in the offing, while I went ashore in my boat. On reaching the land,
I found the chiefs engaged in the trial of a native called Tuvai, who
had killed an American named Edward Cavenaugh, a native of New
Bedford.

It appeared that on Captain Hudson’s arrival the murderer was
pointed out to him in the village, upon which he very properly deter-
mined to have the offender punished, and gave orders to have him
arrested. He was in consequence seized in a house near the water,
and carried on board the Peacock. Being taken by surprise, he
offered no resistance to his capture. Captain Hudson then requested
a conference with the neighbouring chiefs, who in consequence had
assembled on the 27th.

The fono, as such assemblies are called, was held in the council-
house, or fale-tele, where the chiefs were collected. The Rev. Mr.
Mills acted as interpreter on the occasion. Captain Hudson, through
him, stated that the object of his having requested them to assemble
was to bring the accused to a trial before them, in order that if his
guilt were established, he might be brought to condign punishment:
he then pointed out to them the guilt and consequences of the crime
of murder, and declared the course he had considered it his duty to
adopt. The chiefs listened attentively to this address, and in reply,
through the principal one, admitted that the man taken was in reality
the guilty person, a fact known to every person upon the island.
Captain Hudson then stated to them that it was absolutely necessary

UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL 89

that Tuvai should be promptly punished, in order that others might be
deterred from the commission of the same crime. He suggested,
however, that in spite of the universal belief in Tuvai’s having com-
mitted the crime, it was proper that he should undergo a trial, or at
least an examination, in order that he might have the privilege of
being heard in his own defence.

This suggestion being approved, Tuvai was brought on shore under
a military guard, and placed in the centre of the building. He was an
ill-looking fellow, of about twenty-eight years of age, and manifested
no fear, but looked about him with the greatest composure.

The trial was simple enough: he was first asked by the chiefs
whether he was guilty of the crime, to which he answered that he was;
being next asked why he had committed it, he replied that he had done
it in order to possess himself of the man’s property, (clothes and a
knife.)

The chiefs, among whom was Pea, of Apia, to whom the criminal
was distantly related, made every effort in their power to save his life ;
stating that he was in darkness, and therefore unconscious of the guilt
of the action, when he committed the murder ; that as they had but just
emerged from heathenism they ought not to be subjected for past
actions, to laws they knew not; that these laws were made for people
who occupied a more elevated station ; that ‘Tuvai was a poor man of
no account, and was not a person of sufficient importance to be noticed
by a great people like us; that faa Samoa (the Samoan fashion) did
not allow men to be put to death in cold blood, but that after so long a
time had elapsed, as in the instance before them, it admitted of a
ransom.

Pea went on to say, that many bad acts had been committed upon
natives by white men, with impunity, and asked whether the Christian
religion sanctioned the taking of human life. He then appealed to our
generosity to pardon the present crime, and assured us that no such
offences should be committed in future.

Pea had one of those countenances which exhibits all that is passing
in the mind. It was amusing to see him at one time exhibiting a
picture of whimsical distress at the idea of being compelled to put his
kinsman to death, and immediately afterwards laughing at something
ludicrous which had occurred to him.

Pea was seconded in his endeavours by Vavasa, of Manono, one of
the finest-looking of the chiefs, whose attitudes and movements were
full of grace, and his manner exceedingly haughty and bold.

In reply to their arguments, Captain Hudson stated, that however
freely other sins might be forgiven, in consideration of their late

1

VOL. II. 2

90 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVATI.

benighted state, even the darkness of Paganism could not extenuate.
the crime of murder. He told them that the Scriptures said, “ Whoso
sheddeth man’s blood, by man shall his blood be shed ;” that nothing
but the life of the offender could satisfy the demands of justice, and that
they must execute the criminal themselves.

This announcement caused much excitement; the chiefs again
asserted that they knew no such laws; that by the customs of Samoa,
the anger of the friends and relations of a person who had been killed
was to be appeased by a present from the criminal or his relations, and
by a form of submission, which consisted in knocking their heads three
times on the ground. To this it was replied, that the guilt of the
prisoner had been proved and admitted—he must die.

The chiefs, after much reluctance, consented, but expressed great
repugnance to an immediate execution. They urged in the most
strenuous manner, that the criminal should be carried on board ship,
and executed there, or that he should be taken to some uninhabited
island and left. These alternatives were refused by Captain Hudson,
and the chiefs seemed in great distress.

At this point of the discussion, the Vincennes was announced as being
in sight, and the proceedings were suspended. An officer was imme-
diately despatched, who, as has been already mentioned, boarded that
vessel off the harbour.

When I landed, I found the assembly anxiously awaiting the result -
of my arrival. Captain Hudson and myself had a private interview, in
which he detailed all the facts, and stated that it had been his intention
to compel the chiefs to make all the preparations for the execution, but
before it was carried into effect to come forward and reprieve the
criminal, at the same time requesting Mr. Mills to make an appropriate
speech, stating the reasons for the pardon.

After a full discussion of the whole subject, we came to the conclu-
sion, that it would be best to transport the criminal to some other
island ; for it appeared probable that this would have a better effect than
even his execution, as it would be longer remembered, while to cause
him to be put to death might naturally excite a desire of revenge.

This decision was at once communicated to the chiefs, with a
statement, that in conformity with the laws of Tahiti in such cases,
Tuvai should be transported to a desert island, where he would never
again have an opportunity of killing a white man. The chiefs, although
evidently relieved from the most intense part of their distress, were
still much affected by this decision.

The prisoner was then ordered to be taken on board the Peacock,
whither he was followed by a crowd of natives, with many tears and

UPOLU—MANONO—SAVATIIL. 91

lamentations, among whom his wife was the most affected. Among
others, Pea, the chief of Apia, to whom, as has been stated, the prisoner
was related, was very much distressed and excited. Unable to vent
his rage and trouble in any other manner, he spent it upon the crowd
around him, striking in all directions with a huge stem of a cocoa-nut
leaf, by which he soon dispersed them. I felt a curiosity to see what
effect the sentence would have upon the prisoner. Death he would
have suffered without uttering a murmur; but when he heard he was
to be taken from his native land, his firmness was overcome, and he
was observed to shed tears. He made no resistance to his being removed
on board ship, but after he got there he said he would rather be put to
death and buried in his own native island, than banished to a desert
one.

After this difficult business was arranged, they brought their own
grievances before me, and particularly their complaints against the
American whalers. They said that some of them had evaded their
port-charges, and refused to pay for the provisions with which they
had been furnished. To this I replied that I was ready to indemnify
them for their losses, and should ask no other proof of them than their
own statement. They appeared struck with the unexpected liberality
of this offer; but, after consultation, as if to manifest a corresponding
feeling, declined to accept it. I then informed them that their port-
charges for the squadron should be paid, which gave much satisfaction,
particularly to old Pea, who would derive the principal benefit from
them. ‘The fono then broke up in great good humour.

Pea and some of the other chiefs were very anxious to hear from
me what sort of an island Tuvai was to be put upon. They asked
many questions in relation to it, and always among the first, whether
there would be any cocoa-nut trees, Nature’s first and best gift to them,
upon it. Wishing to make the intended punishment as terrible as
possible to them, I always replied that there would be none whatever.

After Tuvai was again on board ship, old Pea paid him a visit, in
the course of which the former melted into tears, howled bitterly, and
begged that he might be taken on shore to be put to death, in order
that his body might be buried in his native soil. It appeared from
information that we received, that this was a part of a concerted plan
to obtain a farther commutation of his sentence, and that this affecting
interview was got up in order to excite our sympathies. Finding it
did not produce the desired effect, old Pea went about the ship with a
doleful visage, exclaiming, “ Eoloisa-ia-tu Tuvai’—have compassion
on Tuvai.

I was in hopes to find the surveys of Upolu nearly, if not quite

92 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL

finished; but the Flying-Fish, which was to have aided in performing ©
them, had not yet been seen or heard from. This was no small
disappointment, as it might compel me to bring the Vincennes into the
harbour, and thus incur a serious delay.

Before I had decided upon this step, I learned that a chief of the
name of Opotuno, whose capture had been considered so important
by our government that a ship of war had been despatched for the
express purpose, had again become troublesome, and was threatening
vengeance upon all the whites who might fall in his power. I there-
fore determined to make an attempt to obtain possession of his person
by stratagem. Lest, however, such an attempt should create dis-
turbance in the island, or be productive of injury to the white residents,
I determined, before putting my purpose into effect, to have an inter-
view with the Rev. Mr. Williams, the principal missionary in these
islands, both to consult as to the best mode of accomplishing this
object, and to learn what effect it would be likely to have on the
operations of the missionaries.* I accordingly set out for his residence
at Fasetootai, about twenty miles to the westward of Apia, in the hope
of seeing him. Mr. Cunningham, H. B. M. Vice-consul, was kind
enough to accompany me.

We left the Peacock at sunset, and reached Mr. Williams’s snug
cottage about midnight. Nothing could be kinder than the welcome
he gave us; and the pleasure he expressed at our visit soon made us
feel at home. He gave us supper, and provided us with comfortable
beds. Shortly after our arrival, another party was welcomed, consist-
ing of three ladies and a gentleman of the mission, who were in like
manner provided for, without apparent inconvenience.

Mr. Williams seemed to me exactly what a missionary ought to be,
pious, cheerful, and meek, although resolute. His whole thoughts
seemed to be directed to the welfare of those whom he had undertaken
to enlighten. His views were pointed not only to the diffusion of the
gospel, but also to the extension of the useful arts, and whatever could
tend to elevate the condition and eradicate the vices of the natives.

After a long consultation, Mr. Williams came to the conclusion that
there was no reason for fearing that the arrest of Opotuno would be
the cause of any injury to the whites or missionaries. He said that
Opotuno was a blood-thirsty fellow, and that it would be doing the
islands a great service should he be removed; that there was not a

* Mr. Williams is the author of the well-known Polynesian Missionary Researches, and
it will be our melancholy office hereafter, to speak of his falling a martyr in his efforts to
propagate the gospel.

UPOLU—MANONO—SAVATI. 93

shadow of doubt that he had murdered twelve whites, of whom several
were Americans; that he was a determined enemy to the whites, and
in the habit of saying that he would omit no opportunity of killing all
who might come within his power. Mr. Williams, however, doubted
the success of any attempt to take Opotuno, unless it was made under
disguise; for upon the approach of all men-of-war, and during their
stay, he lived in the mountains of Savaii, where it was impossible to
find him. | , |

The situation of Mr. Williams’s cottage is pretty; it stands within
a few rods of the beach, and is surrounded by a nicely-dressed lawn,
on which are several fine trees; the background is filled up with
cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and a variety of other trees. Near by is the
tiny ship-yard of his son, Mr. John Williams, who was taken by his
father to England, and there taught all the mechanical trades. He
has returned thence within a few months, with his wife, and by the
aid of a few natives has already built himself a vessel of about twenty-
five tons burden, which he proposes to employ in trading among these
islands.

The next day we returned to Apia. On our way we stopped at
Sagana for the purpose of visiting Malietoa, the principal chief of the
Malo or conquering party.

Sagana is a neat settlement, and is regularly laid out; it is situated
on a small peninsula, across whose isthmus a stone wall has been
erected, for the purpose of protecting the plantations within it from
the swine. The village contains about six hundred inhabitants, and
there is a school composed of about fifty scholars kept by Mr. Wilson, ©
one of the missionary teachers, son of the missionary at Matavai Bay.

No preparation had been made to receive us, for I came unan-
nounced ; nor, indeed, had it been my intention to stop, but hearing
that this was the residence of Malietoa, and that he was at home, we
paid him a visit. He was well advanced in age, and it was generally
remarked that he bore a striking resemblance to General Jackson.
The resemblance is not confined to that of person only ; for Malietoa
possesses also not a little of the same energy of character.

I have rarely seen a place where more attention is paid to clean-
liness than at Sagana. A similar regard to neatness prevails in the
walks around the village, and in the cultivation of the taro, melons,
and bananas, which is carried on in the immediate vicinity. The
paths leading to these cultivated grounds pass through fine shady
groves. The preservation of the broad walks and paths appears to be
rather an amusement than a labour to the villagers.

Here Malietoa was seen in his domestic circle, with his wives and

94 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL

children around him. I found him in a small house, enjoying the
afternoon breeze, with his daughter playing about him. She was
about fifteen years of age, and decidedly the prettiest girl we had seen
in this group; her name was Emma, and she was as intelligent as she
was pretty.

The chief, whose hair was white with age, made us warmly wel-
come, and wished to go over to his fale-tele to receive us as became
chiefs, but this I would not permit. His wives busied themselves in
getting things in order, very much after the fashion of other parts of
the world, when a stranger arrives unexpectedly. In a few minutes
the fine mats were laid, the stools, calabashes, and straw put away.
A clean shirt was slipped over the old man’s head while my attention
was called off to another object.

Malietoa’s house was not larger than the others in the village, and
exhibited no other difference from them than in containing a dais or
platform, occupying about a third of it, and raised about a foot higher
than the rest of the floor.

When the domestic arrangements were completed, large bunches
of bananas and fresh cocoa-nuts were brought in and presented to us.
Mr. Wilson was an excellent interpreter, and by his aid I had a long
and agreeable talk with the old chief, who, when his wars were
touched upon, appeared full of fire and animation.

I intimated my desire to have a conference with the ruling chiefs, for
the purpose of transacting business, whereupon he readily assented to
call a fono, and appointed the 4th of November as the earliest day on
which he could possibly get the chiefs, a part of whom must come from
Savaii, together. This day he named himself, after having made a
reckoning of the six intervening days upon his fingers; I observed,
however, that he found it necessary to repeat the count several times.
Having transacted this business with him, and regaled ourselves on his
hospitable fare, we took our leave.

On reaching the Peacock, I found that none of her surveying parties
had returned, and the Flying-Fish was still missing; I thus became
satisfied that I should be detained here for several days. I therefore
sent orders for the Vincennes to make for the harbour, where. she
anchored in the afternoon, near the Peacock. |

The next day, parties were despatched in various directions, so as
to bring all parts of the island under examination at the same time.

One of these excursions was made across the island. On arriving at
the highest point of the ridge, between Siuma and Siusinga, which has
an elevation of two thousand and fifty feet, and just before the descent
began, a clearing was found, in which were two mounds of earth, each

UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL 95

about fifteen feet high, and one hundred and twenty feet in circumfe-
rence ; several stone walls were also seen. In respect to these, there is
a tradition that they were built by the warriors of Vavao, who invaded
Upolu, and after their predatory warfare along the coast was over,
occupied this commanding position for the purpose of cutting off the
communication between the opposite sides of the island. The trees
srowing on these mounds are nearly two feet in diameter, and the
missionaries have inferred from their inquiries that the invasion referred
to occurred seventy or eighty years ago.

Messrs. Dana and Couthouy visited a lake called Lauto, which lies
to the westward of this pass, and in the centre of an extinct crater. The
edge of the crater was found to be two thousand five hundred and
seventy feet above the sea, and the descent thence to the water of the
lake is one hundred and twenty feet. These gentlemen succeeded in
obtaining a line of soundings across the lake, by cutting down trees,
and forming a raft of them. They found the depth in the middle nine
and a half fathoms, decreasing thence gradually in all directions to the
shore. The form of the lake is nearly circular, and it has a subterra-
nean outlet. The hill in which this crater is situated is conical, and
there is a low knoll at some distance to the south of it, which is the
only other elevation in the neighbourhood, above the general height of
the ridge.

The border of the crater is clothed with the usual forest foliage of
these islands, which, however, exhibits here more than usual beauty,
being decorated with the finely-worked fronds of the arborescent ferns,
in widely-spread stars, and the graceful plumes of a large mountain
palm.

The poets of the island have appreciated the beauty of the place, and
allude to the perpetual verdure which adorns the banks of the lake, in
the following line:

* Lauuto’o e le toi a e lau mea,”
‘“‘ Lauto, untouched by withered leaf.”

There is a legend connected with this lake, that has more of poetic
beauty and feeling than one would have supposed to exist among so
rude a people. It is as follows.

Many generations since, during a war between Upolu and Savaii, a
number of war-canoes from the latter island crossed over to attack
Ulatamoa (or, as it is now called, Ulumoenga), the principal town in
the district of Aana. At the time of their approach, two brothers.
To’o and Ata, chanced to be paddling their canoes in the channel
petween the reef and the shore, and before they could reach the land

Y6 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL

were attacked by a party of Savaiians. After a valiant defence, Ata was
overpowered and slain, while To’o narrowly escaped the same fate.

Overwhelmed with sorrow at the loss of a brother whom he tenderly
loved, To’o retired to a neighbouring mountain, and burying himself in
the darkest recesses of its forests, made them resound with his bitter
lamentations. At length in his wanderings he came to the summit,
where, stooping down, he scooped out with his hands a vast hollow,
and, leaning over its brink, suffered his tears to fall in until it was
filled. The lake thus formed has ever since borne the appellation of
Lauu-to’o. .

The regard of To’o for his brother’s memory was further evinced by
his adoption of Ata’s name, conjoined to his own as his family title, and
the appellation of Toomata, a contraction of To’o-ma-ata, is retained
by his descendants, who are still chiefs of note in Upolu, and from whom
the tradition was derived.

The lake of Lauto is regarded with superstitious dread by the
natives, who believe it to be the abode of the spirits, who, in former
times, were regarded with great veneration, and worshipped. These
were supposed to inhabit the waters of the lake, in the shape of eels,
as thick as a cocoa-nut tree, and two fathoms long. The attempt of
our gentlemen to explore it was looked upon as such a profanation that
their native guides left them, and regarded them as persons doomed to
accident if not to destruction. The eels were represented as so savage
and fierce that they would bite a person’s leg off. No eels, however,
nor any other fish, were seen in the lake.

In the neighbourhood of the crater no rock was observed in place,
nor any light scoria. Only a few fragments of stone were scattered
about.

The cone of the crater of Lauto, is flatter than the others of the
same character that were visited, and particularly than that of Mount
Tofua. This is the westernmost of them all, and lies behind Fase-
tootai. It rises so boldly, that it is seen distinctly from the sea. This,
with all the other craters, are situated upon the central ridge, and the
most conspicuous of those which remain, are Siusinga, which lies
behind Sagana and Faliata. There is also one upon Mount Malata,
in the rear of Fangaloa, and another on the southern side of the island,
near Salomana.

The part of the ridge on which Tofua is situated, is much lower
than the cone itself, and has gradually declined from its eastern end.
The ascent from Fasetootai has, for the first three or four miles, an
almost imperceptible rise; after this, the slope increases rapidly until
it becomes quite abrupt. Even in the steepest parts, however, the rock

UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAITI. 97

was rarely visible, but is covered with a deep and fertile soil, arising
from its decomposition, and mixed with vegetable mould. The whole
declivity, from the very summit of the peak to the shore of the sea, is,
like other parts of the island, clothed with a dense forest, which shuts
out all view of the ocean, except from the top of the mountain. The
ridge whence the cone rises was found to be one thousand one hundred
and fifty feet above the level of the sea, and the angle of ascent thence
upwards, was from 40° to 50°. The top of the peak, which forms the
edge of the crater, is not more than fifteen feet wide in any place, and
sometimes not more than half as much. It is of uniform height, and
has a circular form; the cavity within it was estimated as having a
circumference: of about two and a quarter miles, and occupies the
whole summit. ‘The depth of the crater was found to be three hundred
and sixty feet, and the whole of its interior is filled with lofty trees.
The slope of the inner declivity was 60°. At the foot of this is an
uneven plane, covered with earth and loose cinders or scoria. Upon
this grow forest trees, many of which were more than one hundred
feet in height, beneath which is a dense growth of shrubbery.

It was remarked, that although it had rained constantly for several
days before this crater was visited, no water was found within it.
This is accounted for by the fact that many of the brooks and streams
on the island are subterranean throughout their whole course, while
others are partly so. The former gush up near the sea-shore in large
springs or fountains, forming natural, or feeding artificial pools, in
which the natives bathe. According to our observations, such pools
are so numerous on the western shore of the island, as to occur on the
average, at intervals of a mile.

The rocks of this island are of the volcanic character that might be
expected from the existence of so many craters. They are principally
composed of a variety of basaltic lava, in which are found augite,
felspar, albite, and chrysolite. Extensive currents of lava are seen, and
are particularly abundant on the southern side of the island.

It appears as if these had flowed down towards the sea-shore in
various directions, and that after their outer surface had cooled, the
portion that remained liquid within had run out, and left a sort of
tunnel. Such tunnels are numerous, and form the subterranean courses
of the streams. Some of these natural tunnels are remarkable: among
them, one visited near Sanga will serve as the type of all. It was
found to be a cavern nine hundred and fifty-eight feet in length,
extending in a southeast direction, and to have an average width of
about fifteen feet; its roof was about eight feet in height. At the
termination of this cave, there was a pool of water five feet in depth,

VOL. II. 7 13

98 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVATIL

the temperature of which was observed to be 72°, while that of the air
within the cavern was 76°6°, and that of the open air was 77-4°.
These streams of lava are much more frequently seen on the southern
than on the northern side of the island; they are also larger on the
former of these sides, where they were in some places four miles in
width.

The path from Vivimanga to Sanga is called the Stone Road,
formed in part of blocks of lava. There are also in this neighbour-
hood many caves in the streams of lava. The cave at Sanga is the
largest of these, and to describe it will convey an idea of those of
smaller dimensions.

The cave at Sanga was dedicated to the god “ Moso,” who was
supposed to reside init. The entrance was found to be closed by an
artificial wall built across it, about three feet thick; it is four feet
high, and six feet wide. The sides, roof, and floor of this cavern are
comparatively smooth, and are covered with stalagmites of a light
yellowish colour, which are not calcareous.

It had been reported that this cave was frequented by a peculiar
kind of swallow, which never ventured into the light of day. Mr.
Peale, who was one of the party that visited it, found swallows in
abundance, which made a bat-like noise, or rather one having a resem-
blance to the rattling of pebbles. So far, however, from their being
a peculiar species, as they had been represented, they were the com-
mon species of the islands, and instead of shunning the light of day,
they were continually passing in and out of the cavern, which was
merely a place selected by them for breeding. On the ledges of the
sides and roof their nests were found, composed of pieces of moss glued
together. The eggs were white, and of a large size in proportion to
the bird, and no more than one was found in each nest.

In traversing the island of Upolu, many deep gorges were seen, in
which there were waterfalls. One of these cascades was measured,
and found to be seven hundred and fifty feet in height, so that the
whole of the water was dissipated in spray before it reached the
bottom. These glens are wild in the extreme, and beautiful, from the
great variety and peculiar character of the foliage with which they
are clothed. -

The south side of Upolu, like that of Tahiti, is much more luxuriant
than the northern, which is owing to a like cause, namely, that, it
receives more moisture from the prevailing winds.

The wild orange grows every where in great abundance, and in
some places the road was literally strewed with the fruit, which here
equals the cultivated variety in size.

UPOLU—-MANONO—SAVAITI. 99

In the different jaunts across the island, many of the “ Devil’s” or
unconverted towns were visited, where our parties were always
treated with great hospitality. At the town of Siusinga the chief who
entertained our party was a priest of the Gimblet religion. This new
faith has made some progress among these islands, and has the follow-
ing singular origin:

A native of Savaii, by name Seeovedi, was taken from that island
by a whale-ship, and did not return for several years. During his
absence he visited several ports, where it would seem he obtained some
notions of the forms and ceremonies of the Roman Catholic Church.
Possessed of considerable natural shrewdness, he founded on this
knowledge a plan to save himself from labour for the future, by col-
lecting followers at whose expense he might be maintained. During
his absence, and while on board the whale-ship, he had received, as is
usual in such cases, instead of his native name, that of Joe Gimblet;
and this cognomen is now firmly attached to the sect of which he was
the founder.

Having formed the plan of founding a sect, he did not scruple as to
the means of carrying it into effect; for he boldly claimed a heavenly
mission, professing to hold converse with God, and asserting that he
possessed the power of working miracles, raising the dead, &c. He
soon gained many proselytes, and had attained great consideration
and authority, when unfortunately for him he was called upon to exert
his pretended power of raising the dead, by restoring to life the
favourite son of a powerful chief called Lelomiava, who had been
murdered.

Joe did not hesitate to undertake the accomplishment of this miracle.
He in the first place directed a house to be built for the reception of
the body, and when it was finished he required that it should be sup-
plied with the best provisions. In conformity with this requisition, the
choicest articles of food that could be obtained were regularly handed
to Joe for the use of the defunct, upon whom he alone waited, while
every other person except the chief and himself was excluded from the
building.

The food thus regularly supplied as regularly disappeared, and Joe
assured the chief that his son had eaten it, and under this bountiful
allowance would soon recover his strength, and walk forth. In this
way time wore on, until the patience of the old chief began to show
symptoms of being exhausted. ‘This somewhat alarmed Joe, but as he
was a fellow of infinite resources, he contrived to evade inquiry and
procrastinate, hoping, no doubt, that some lucky incident might turn
up, by which he should be enabled to extricate himself from the

100 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL

dilemma. Unfortunately for him, however, after another month of
anxious suspense, the old man’s pigs and taro fell short, notwithstand-
ing the chief’s dependants had for a long time been restricted from
using them. All of them were in fact much reduced by their com-
pulsory fast, with the exception of Joe, whose rotundity of form seemed
to indicate that he at least ran no risk of starvation. Whether it were
owing to the suspicions which his jolly appearance excited, or that
he began to entertain doubts of Joe’s supernatural powers, is not
known ; but one day old Lelomiava determined to satisfy himself of the
progress making in the restoration of his son. With this design he
entered the house, and was shocked with the sight of his son’s body in
a state of loathsome putridity. He immediately summoned Joe, and
informed him that it was time that the promised miracle should be
accomplished, adding, that it must be done by the morrow’s dawn.
Joe immediately redoubled his exertions, and prayed hastily to all the
saints of his calendar. He, however, knew full well what would be
his fate if he remained to encounter on the morrow the anger of the
savage chief. He therefore effected his escape during the night, and
made his way to his native island. There he remained for some
time incog., but now ventures to appear openly, practising his impo-
sitions boldly, and is the worst antagonist the missionaries have to deal
with.

This story was related by the old chief himself, who, instead of find-
ing his son restored to life, was compelled to bury his body, which he
did, with the exception of the head. This he put in a box, and sus-
pended beneath the peak of the roof of his house, where it remains, a
witness of his credulity and of the gross imposition that was practised
upon him.

While the party remained at Siusinga, a sick native was brought
from the coast to a neighbouring house, and their host, the Gimblet
priest, was called upon to pray for him. This afforded them an oppor-
tunity that might not otherwise have occurred, of learning some facts
in relation to the ceremonies of this sect.

On this occasion, the priest approached the house where the sick man
lay, and when upon the stone platform in front of it, he drew forth a
book from the folds of tapa in which it had been carefully enveloped.
He then called upon Jehovah, returning thanks for the many blessings
which had been conferred on his people, and asked for a continuance
of the same, invoking the name of Jesus. He ended by inquiring the
Divine pleasure concerning the sick man, and begging mercy for him.

The nature of the book could not be distinctly seen, as it was again
carefully enclosed in the tapa as soon as the ceremony was over; but

UPOLU—MANONO—SAVATILI 101

so far as it was visible, it bore an unquestionable resemblance to a
blank note-book !

The proselytes of this sect, in case of sickness, confess their sins to
one another, and have a number of fast-days, which are rigidly kept.
Their Sabbath occurs only once a month, and is celebrated by the
firing of guns and the puerile mummery in which their worship con-
sists.

In pursuance of the resolution I had adopted, Captain Hudson set out
on the 30th of October, with the boats of his ship, for the purpose of
attempting the capture of Opotuno. This noted chief of the neigh-
bouring island of Savaii, had, as has been stated, committed several
murders and other outrages. Among other acts, he had taken posses-
sion of two boats, sent on shore by the whale-ship William Penn,
Captain Swain, of Nantucket, killing the chief mate, and the two boat-
steerers. The third officer of the vessel was also wounded, and left for
dead upon the beach; he was, however, picked up by some females,
who removed him to a hut, where, through their kind attentions, he
recovered. He did not, however, rejoin his ship, but remained for some
time on the island.

The most surprising part of the history of this transaction 1s, that
Captain Toby, of the ship Swift, of New Bedford, afterwards purchased
these boats from Opotuno, although he knew that chief had obtained.
them by murdering this captain’s own countrymen.

Captain Hudson fell in with the Flying-Fish, on his way to Savaii,
and took her with him, to aid in carrying on the stratagem by which
the watchfulness and suspicions of the wary chief were to be lulled to
rest.

On their arrival off the part of the island where Opotuno usually
resides, they made for the shore under pretence of surveying, and
reached the village of Setipetea, which adjoins that where he dwells.
We afterwards learned that no sooner had the boats got within the
reef, than he prepared for his flight to the mountains. The news of
the capture of 'Tuvai, and the reappearance of boats from a vessel (the
Peacock) which had passed about ten days before, served to put him.
on the alert. He had, however, become so daring that he did not at
once fly, but awaited more decided indications of hostility ; and when
Captain Hudson, accompanied by only two men, passed through his
village, having left his boats only a mile distant, he entertained the
intention of shooting him. He had actually cocked his gun for this
purpose, when one of his followers advised him not to fire, as he would
bring great trouble on the island if he shot a chief. When the boats’

crews afterwards entered Opotuno’s village, the inhabitants showed
12

102 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL

much alarm, but the chief was missing. It was therefore considered
advisable to make no hostile demonstrations ; as no good purpose could
have been effected by following him to the mountains, where it would
have been impossible to apprehend him.

The boats therefore returned, and although without succeeding in
the main object of the expedition, something was gained in reviving
his apprehensions of being captured. His village was not destroyed,
because to do so would have been no injury to him, but only distress-
ing to its poor inhabitants. He would have laughed at the idea of
his being punished by the burning of their habitations, as it is said
he did so when an attempt was made, during a previous cruise of the
Vincennes, by her commander, who visited his village, and burned
two or three of his houses.

The impunity he has hitherto enjoyed has served to render him
audacious, and it is not long since he put to death an American sea-
man, who had been left sick in his charge. |

Opotuno is detested by his brother chiefs, not only for his aggres-
sions upon foreigners, but on his countrymen also. Only a short time
before our arrival, he seduced and carried off the wife of Vavasa.
This act was considered so outrageous, and was so deeply resented,
that we were informed a war was only prevented by the near relation-
ship of these two chiefs. The Samoans regard with horror the idea of
those connected by ties of consanguinity, fighting against each other.

Opotuno is not only related to Vavasa, but is the adopted son of old
Pea of Manono, a connexion which was not without its effect in
averting hostilities.

On the 4th of November, a fono was held, according to the appoint-
ment made with Malietoa, in the fale-tele of Apia. All the officers
who could be spared from the ships were ordered to attend. Old Pea,
the chief of Apia, seemed to be the master of ceremonies on the
occasion. Clean mats were spread for the chiefs, and chairs and
benches borrowed from the missionaries’ houses were placed for us,
opposite to them. All the highest chiefs of the “ Malo” party were
present, except Pea of Manono, and two minor chiefs of Savaii.
Malietoa presided. His whole demeanour was dignified, composed,
and thoughtful. His personal appearance has already been spoken of,
and the form of his head, his white hair, and dignified bearing, again
reminded us of General Jackson. He is slender and tall, although
somewhat bent by age. It was to be regretted that his dress was ill
chosen, and rather detracted from the respect he would have inspired
had he appeared in his native garb; he wore pantaloons, a round
iacket, and a pink and white striped cotton shirt.

UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAITIL 103

Tooa, the nephew of Malietoa, who acted as spokesman, and whose
countenance betokened the interest he felt in the business, attracted
attention in the second degree. Then came Mole, the son of Malietoa,
Maletau, their general, the most renowned leader in the war of Aana,
and Tai-ma-le-lagi, Malietoa’s brother. There were also present a
number of chiefs of less distinction, among whom was old Pea of
Apia; although he was compelled to take his place, yet he did not
fail to be conspicuous, not merely by his personal appearance, but by
his officiousness. :

The proceedings were conducted with great ceremony, but there
was a marked difference between this fono, and the solemnity of our
Indian councils. The Samoan assembly appeared more quiescent,
the proceedings exhibited more refinement, and the customs partook
of an Asiatic character.

In all such meetings, a rigid order of precedence, that seems well
understood by every one, is established; all conversation is carried on
in a whisper; no one is seen standing in the presence of a superior,
and sitting with outstretched legs is considered indecorous. Articles
were never passed over a person, and no native ever ventured to come
in contact with a chief.

The background on the side of the natives was filled up with
inhabitants from different parts of the island.

On the opposite side of the building, the officers of the squadron and
the missionaries formed a numerous group. Among the latter was
our friend Mr. Williams and his son, whom I had appointed to act as
consul until the pleasure of the government of the United States was
known, and whom it was intended to present in this capacity to the
meeting, in order that he might be recognised formally by the chiefs,
Messrs. Heath, Mills, and Wilson were also present; and Mr. Heath,
who was believed to be best acquainted with the Samoan language,
was kind enough to officiate as our interpreter.

The object I had in view, in requesting the fono to be called, was
to procure the formal enactment of laws and regulations which might
secure to our whale-ships a certainty of protection and security, and
at the same time to prevent impositions being practised by them upon
the native government, of which, as has been stated, complaint had
been made. To the breach of these laws, it was intended that the
penalty of a fine should be attached, in order to secure obedience to
them.

The meeting being organized, I in the first place presented Mr. John
Williams, as the consul of the United States, whom the chiefs recog-
nised as such with great willingness and satisfaction.

104 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAII ~

We then entered upon the discussion of the proposed regulations,
which were adopted in a form which promises to be mutually bene-
ficial, being highly advantageous to them, and at the same time insuring
a certainty of security to American vessels that may visit the islands
they could not before enjoy.*

One of the articles referred to the redress of injuries committed by
the natives, and provided for the punishment of those who had been
guilty of crime, by giving them up.

Wishing to rid’these islands of a pest both to natives and foreigners,
I now, as authorized by the spirit of this article, made a demand for
the murderer, Opotuno, and stated that a compliance with this would
settle all disputes between us. This demand produced a great sensa-
tion among the chiefs, and much excitement prevailed in the meeting.
Malietoa, in reply to it, expressed himself strongly in detestation of the
character of Opotuno, and stated that his capture by us would give him
satisfaction, but argued that the regulations now enacted could not
apply to his past misdeeds, and that he would only come within its
operation should he be again guilty of like crimes. He in short pleaded
that the law could have no ex post facto bearing.

He next argued, that the inevitable consequence of any attempt on
their part to seize Opotuno, would be to involve the whole group in a
civil war, for he was not only a powerful chief himself, but connected
with others still more so; and that a civil war was that which he most
desired to avoid. He however went on to say, that so far as he was
concerned, no opposition would be made to any steps on our part to
secure one whom they knew to be guilty of great outrages; but he
could not in any way assist.

In conclusion, he stated that the islands had, until within the few
years that had elapsed since he obtained the command, been the seat
of continual wars; that they were now aware of the advantages of
peace, and had a just sense of the benefits they in consequence enjoyed ;
and declared that he should do allin his power to preserve the blessings
of peace, and maintain the unwonted state of prosperity. For these
blessings he ascribed high acknowledgments to the missionaries, saying
that he hoped the Samoan people would in due time profit by the
lessons taught them, and adopt all the improvements of the Papalangis.

Few persons have ever inspired me with more respect than this old
chief, and his sentiments were delivered by Tooa in an impressive
manner.

It was not my object to drive them to extremities, or to press for an

« A copy of these regulations will be found in Appendix IX.

UPOLU MANONO—SAVATL 105

instant decision. I also wished to give them time to reflect upon and
canvass the regulations just adopted, and perceived that they began to
be fatigued with the length of the conference. I therefore proposed that
before they gave me a final answer in relation to Opotuno, they should
take time for consideration and reflection, for which purpose I suggested
that the meeting should be adjourned until the next day, which was
accordingly done.

On the 5th November we again met, when the arguments urged the
day before were a second time brought forward, and the necessity of
their taking measures that should effectually prevent outrages upon the
persons and depredations on the property of white men, strongly set
before them. They met these arguments with complaints against the
white men who had come to the islands or been left upon them, saying
that many of them were bad fellows, and had caused much trouble. I
at once told them that if they would bring these turbulent persons to
me, I would take them away from the islands, and that the laws they
had now assented to, were such as would secure their punishment for
any future offences.

In this state of the proceedings we were favoured with a set speech
from the official orator of Malietoa, an old blind chief, who stood up,
supporting himself by leaning with both hands upon a long stick. In
this attitude he poured forth such a torrent of words as few of us had
ever before heard; and if eloquence be composed of elocution and a
ready flow of language, he was fully entitled to the praise of possess-
ing it.

As we learned from the translation of this speech, its object was to
urge the necessity of going to war, in order to secure the murderer,
Opotuno, for the purpose of delivering him up. This, however, was
intended only for effect; for these, as we well knew, were not the real
sentiments entertained by Malietoa.

This speech was made up of short and distinct sentences, was
spoken in a loud voice, and contained many repetitions.

However contrary this speech may have been to the cool determi-
nation of Malietoa, it seemed to meet the popular feeling; and there is
no saying what might have been the consequence, had not the mission-
aries contrived to check the outburst. It was now proposed that the
fono should receive and publish a document, offering a large reward
for the seizure and delivery of Opotuno, dead or alive. This proposition
was a new source of excitement, and old Malietoa exclaimed with
emphasis, ‘Give me the paper !—I will put it upon my house; where
all the world shall see it.”

VOL. II. 14

106 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAITIL.

A copy was then nailed on the pillars of the council-house, which’
Pea was made responsible for, and others were prepared and distri-
buted to the several chiefs.

The meeting was then dissolved, and every one present evinced the
greatest satisfaction that the whole of the business before it had been
concluded in so satisfactory a manner.

The island of Upolu is divided into three districts, viz., Atua, Tua-
Masanga, and Aana. Each of these was formerly governed by a
separate and independent chief, styled Tui. Atua occupies the eastern
end of the island, which extends as far as the town of Lauli; Tua-
Masanga is the middle division, and includes the towns of Siuma and
Safata, on the southern shore; Aana lies west of this, and comprises
the remainder of the island. The first of these districts is of the
greatest extent, the second is at present the most powerful, and the
third is the most fertile. The union of these districts under one
general government, in which the island of Savaii is also included, is
a late event. Previous to 1830, this island had suffered from the
usurpation of a chief of Manono, called Tamafago, who was a great
tyrant, but who had contrived to cause his person to be considered as
sacred, and to impress on his countrymen the idea that it would be
sacrilege to disobey, hurt, or even to touch him. After the conquest
of a rival district in Savaii, he assumed the style of king of that island,
«“O le Tupu o Savaii,” a title which Malietoa now enjoys, but without
deriving from it any power.

Tamafago not only ruled at Savaii with royal and divine attributes,
but obtained a complete ascendency over Upolu, where he compelled
all to give up their property to him, and to yield the women of all
classes to his desires.

Finally, his tyranny and excesses exceeded the bounds of patience,
and the people of Aana rose against him, conquered, and put him to
death. From this arose the war of Aana, which will be again spoken
of; for the chiefs of the other islands considered themselves bound to
avenge the death of Tamafago. The people of the other districts of
Upolu were not united in the support of their neighbours of Aana, who
had made themselves almost universally odious by their haughty
bearing. The war was a bloody one, and resulted, after a continuance
of two or three years, in the entire defeat of the people of Aana, by
those of Manono, who expelled them from their district, and forbade
their return to it on pain of death.

This fertile region remained entirely unoccupied until the ernieal of
the missionaries; but when the Christian influences of their preaching

UPOLU—MANONO—SAVATI. 107

began to be felt, the dect®e that condemned Aana to solitude was
annulled, and the few of its former inhabitants who had escaped
slaughter, were permitted to return to their ancient homes.

The island of Manono, whose inhabitants exerted such an influence
in the closing scenes in the war of Aana, is situated within the sea-reef
of Upolu. It contains eleven hundred inhabitants, and is the residence
of the chief Pea, who must be distinguished from the inferior personage
of the same name who resides at Apia. This island is covered with
forests throughout its whole extent; its circumference is about four
miles; and it is the station of one of the English missionaries.

In spite of its small extent and scanty population, Manono is
identified with the political history of all the other islands of the group;
for, during the reigns of the two Tamafagos, it held supremacy over
them. The reason of its acquiring and exercising this political supre-
macy, is principally to be ascribed to the possession by its inhabitants
of the small island of Apolima, which they used as their “ olo” or
citadel. To this retreat, inaccessible except at a single point, the
inhabitants of Manono were in the habit of retiring when pressed by
too powerful an enemy, and when his rage had spent itself, Bey thence
returned to their home with undiminished numbers.

This natural fortress lies between Manono and Savaii, and sound-
ings extend to it both from the shores of Upolu and Savaii. The coral
reef attached to it is but small.

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108 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAITILI

Apolima, on the most cursory avincinaeen is evidently the crater
of an extinct volcano. Perpendicular cliffs rise from the sea around
its whole circuit, except at a single point on its northern side. Here
the lip of the crater is broken down, and admits the water of the sea
into a small bay, which affords a safe harbour for boats. The entrance
to this is so narrow as to admit no more than one boat at a time, and
is dangerous whenever there is any surf. It may, therefore, be easily
defended. ‘There is only one other point on the island where it is
possible to effect a landing, namely, at a small height to the westward
of the bay, and here it can only be done when the water is perfectly
smooth. But an enemy landing here would have made no progress,
for before the interior can be reached from this point, the steep and
precipitous rocks remain to be climbed.

The highest point of Apolima is on its south side, where it is four
hundred and seventy-two feet above the sea. The perpendicular
cliffs which face the sea are of course bare of vegetation ; but with
this exception the whole surface is covered with cocoa, bread-fruit,
and other trees, or with plantations of taro, yams, &c.

In the centre of the island is a village of about twenty houses, and
the permanent population consists of no more than about seventy-five
persons. ‘The people are evidently jealous of the maiden reputation of
their natural fortress, and showed much concern when we visited it,
which the women even manifested by shedding tears.

It can be readily understood from this description of Apolima, that
whatever party held it would be able to maintain possession of it
against great odds, and thence to take advantage of any weakness or
want of watchfulness on the part of their enemies.

While we were engaged at Tutuila and Upolu, the survey of the
island of Savaii was performed by Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold,
in the Porpoise. It has already been mentioned that this vessel had
been detached for that purpose, and that Dr. Pickering, from the
Vincennes, had gone inher. The brig first touched at Sapapale, the
residence of the Rev. Mr. Hardie, who gave them a cordial welcome,
although much surprised at so unusual an arrival.

Many of the natives collected to view the white men, of whom so
many had never been seen together on the island. In their remarks,
they, among other things, praised our people for their beauty.

Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Maury were landed here, to remain
upon the island while the brig was employed in surveying it; the
former to examine its productions, the latter to observe the tides.
Mr. Hardie kindly afforded them accommodations in a new house he
had just been erecting.

UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIIL. 109

Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, after landing Dr. Pickering and
Lieutenant Maury at Sapapale, proceeded around the island for the
purpose of surveying it. He began with the examination of the large
bay of Paluale, near the eastern point of the island. Here there is a
missionary station, under the superintendence of Mr. M’Donald, who
had resided there for about six months, with his wife and children.
The natives are peaceable, but are described as inquisitive and rude.
The village is prettily situated, and is approached through a boat-
passage in the reef. '

The south side of the island was found rocky and iron-bound, with
a heavy surf breaking on it. ‘Towards the western end of the island,
the rocks around the points were worn into cavities, and the sea rolling
into them produced innumerable spouts of water.

When the brig was abreast of the deep inlet of Salealua, a native
missionary came off in a whale-boat. He tendered every possible
civility, and was very desirous that a trade might be opened with the
village of the same name. This is situated at the head of the bay,
upon a sandy beach, and has around it and upon the sea-shore a con-
siderable extent of level plain, filled with groves of cocoa-nut and
bread-fruit. Upon examination, no shelter was found for vessels in
this bay, and the urgency of the duty required that the brig should
pass on without farther intercourse with the shore.

Near the northwestern point of Savaii is the large and beautiful
village of Felialupo, with a snug little cove for boats. This place is
under the charge of a Tonga missionary. The natives were friendly,
and disposed to exchange their poultry and fruit, for tools, cloth, &c.

The next inlet on the north side, was that of Asau. This was sup-
posed to be the only place where there was any probability of finding
a harbour. But the hope of such discovery was frustrated, for there is
only a small and shallow entrance through the reef, and within the reef
the shore forms an extensive flat.

Many canoes from this village visited the brig, and before they had
taken leave a theft was discovered. A commotion immediately took
place, and the native missionary at once gave himself up as a hostage,
until the article (a whetstone) should be brought back. A canoe was
then despatched to the chief, and in the course of an hour he came on
board, bringing the article. Both the chief and the native missionary
expressed great mortification that such an occurrence had taken place.
Several small presents were made to them, and they returned to the
shore highly pleased.

Proceeding on the survey, the brig arrived off the north point of the
island, and reached the bay of Mataatua, which was examined, and

110 POLU—MANONO—SAVATLI.

found to afford a good anchorage. The brig was anchored here, and
the harbour surveyed. This is the only harbour in the island where a
vessel can anchor with safety, and here supplies of hogs, poultry, and
vegetables, may be had in abundance; wood and water are also easily
obtained, the latter from copious springs near the beach.

A great difference in form, physiognomy, and manners, from those
of the adjacent villages, was observed here, as well as a change in the
character of many articles of manufacture. The war-clubs and spears
were of uncommon form, and neatly made.

This bay is surrounded by a white coral beach. The natives
appeared harmless, but manifested great curiosity. The women are
more gracefully formed than at the other islands.

The native missionaries appeared to exercise much influence over
them, having put a stop to many of their former evil practices.

On the 24th, the brig again arrived off Sapapale, after an absence
of nine days. Here they were joined by Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant
Maury, and found the old chief Malietoa and his son Mole, who were
extremely courteous. On the former being presented with some
articles, he remarked, that “our property was very good, but our
good-will better.”

Dr. Pickering engaged natives to accompany him into the interior,
and to visit the Mu or burnt district. Preparations for the journey
were made in advance, and among other things, it -was stipulated that
there should be only two meals a day,—one early in the morning, and
another in the evening. The first day, however, was to form an
exception.

Mr. Hardie accompanied the party for a few miles, and they soon
after their departure met a native who was styled “the Lord of the
Forest.” The party were desirous that this man should accompany
them, for his appearance promised more than that of the others, and it
seemed it was necessary to obtain his permission before they could
enter the forest. In times of scarcity, his domains become of great
value, in consequence of the quantity of wild yams they yield. This
person agreed to accompany them, and they proceeded along a good
path through cultivated grounds of taro, draceena, &c. Mr. Hardie,
before leaving the party, endeavoured to make the natives understand
the nature of Dr. Pickering’s errand; the latter was unable to make
himself understood by them. ‘They had not proceeded far before they
came to an uninhabited house, where the natives stopped for the pur-
pose of preparing dinner, the cooking of which occupied three hours!
The day was in consequence well advanced before they again started,
and at about 4 p. m. they reached an open shed, about two miles from

UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL 111

the last stopping-place, where the natives concluded to halt for the
night. The occupants, who consisted of two elderly women and a
young man, were dispossessed, and the shed was enclosed by hanging
up leaves of the Heliconia, which resemble those of the banana. They
then prepared some excellent cocoa-nut pudding, and heated some
cocoa-nut milk in the shells. This beverage is usually taken by them
every morning and evening; the natives all saying grace before their
meal, and prayers before they went to rest. It was late the next morn-
ing before Dr. Pickering could get the party in motion, and pursuing
their route, they soon overtook the Lord of the Forest, who had pre-
ceded them, and was employed in cutting a path through the woods,
although that already made might have been easily passed through.
No inducement could make them change their purpose, and they con-
tinued to work at their turnpike, lopping off large branches, beating
down ferns, &c. After some time, they reached a rising ground, which
they found to be on one side of a crater, about a thousand feet above
the sea, and seven miles inland.

Dr. Pickering now concluded that it was a hopeless task to attempt
to penetrate into the interior with such guides, and determined to
return, which he accordingly did. He found the rest of his party a
mile in advance of their previous encampment, where they had built
for themselves a fine house, and each man had collected two large
baskets of yams for provisions. This was their stopping-place for the
night, and among other cares for the Doctor’s comfort, they con-
structed for him a native pillow, formed of a piece of bamboo, with
legs lashed to it about three inches high. |

The natives were in high spirits during the evening, talking and
laughing immoderately. “They succeeded in getting off Bee nine
o’clock the next day, and reached the coast about noon.

During the stay of Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Maury on this
island, they were objects of great curiosity ; and whenever they walked
out they were followed, not only by boys, but grown men, who did
not, however, offer to molest them in any way. When they passed
through the villages, all the inhabitants, not excepting the scholars
from the schools, came out to look at them. The latter, however, did
not abandon their books, but retained them in their hands; for all,
whether young, middle-aged, or old, are anxious to learn, and their
perseverance, as in other parts of the group, is astonishing.

Dr. Pickering here witnessed the taking of fish in a different mode
from that practised on the other islands. Application was made to
the chief, and through his influence a meeting of the head men of the
town was called, and a fishing expedition agreed upon. The net, if it

112 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVATIL

could be so called, was prepared, and in the course of two days every
thing was ready. The net was a kind of cheval-de-frise, made of the
leaves of the cocoa-nut tree, split and wound round a line, and was
little less than half a mile in length. It was more formidable in
appearance than in reality. This net was taken out at high water to
the coral reef, in three pieces, then fastened together, and thus made
to enclose a large extent of water. This space was gradually con-
tracted by doubling up the net, which answered the same purpose as the
drawing of a seine. The fish did not attempt to pass it, and were thus
driven towards a certain point, where a sort of sack of matting had
been placed for them to enter. As the fish were gradually enclosed
by the mat, and the tide fell, the scene became an animated one.
Men, women, and boys, to the number of two or three hundred, were
eagerly engaged in picking up or catching the stragglers as they were
seen leaping up; the whole area seemed alive with fish, jumping in
every direction, some over the heads of the natives, and thus escaping,
while others leaped into hand-nets. About a canoe-load was caught,
comprising thirty different kinds of fish, some of which were six or
eight pounds in weight, but the majority were smaller. The haul was
considered an unsuccessful one, which was attributed to some misun-
derstanding and mismanagement among the natives, by which a large
stone fell on the net, and allowed many of the fish to escape.

Savaii is the most western island of the Samoan Group, and is also
the largest, being forty miles in length and twenty in breadth. It is
not, however, as populous, or as important, as several of the others.
It differs from any of the others in its appearance, for its shore is low,
and the ascent thence to the centre is gradual, except where the cones
of a few extinct craters are seen. In the middle of the island a peak
rises, which is almost continually enveloped in clouds, and is the
highest land in the group. On account of these clouds, angles could
not be taken for determining its height accurately, but it certainly
exceeds four thousand feet.

The interior of the island is rarely entered, even by natives, and
has never been penetrated by strangers. ‘The only settlements are
upon the shore, along which the natives always journey, and there are
no paths across it.

Another marked difference between Savaii and the other large
islands, is the want of any permanent streams,—a circumstance
which may be explained, notwithstanding the frequency of rain, by
the porous nature of the rock (vesicular lava) of which it is chiefly
composed. Water, however, gushes out near the shore in copious
springs, and when heavy and continual rains have occurred, streams

UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAITII 113

are formed in the ravines, but these soon disappear after the rains
have ceased.

The coral reef attached to this island is interrupted to the south and
west, where the surf beats full upon the rocky shore. There are, in
consequence, but few places where boats can land, and only one
harbour for ships, that of Mataatua; even this is unsafe from November
to February, when the northwesterly gales prevail.

The soil is fertile, and was composed in every part of the island that
was visited, of decomposed volcanic rock and vegetable mould.

The Porpoise, having taken Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Maury
again on board, set sail for Tutuila, for the purpose of joining the
Vincennes, and beat to windward along the south side of Upolu.
During this passage many of the crew became sick, which rendered
it necessary to stop for a few days at Pago-pago, in order to recruit
them. Here they all speedily recovered, except one man, named
David Blodget, who died. The disorder was attributed to the damp-
ness of the vessel.

The delay in the arrival of the Porpoise at Apia caused me to send
the Flying-Fish to Tutuila, whence they both returned to Apia.

Previous to sailing, at the pressing instance of the chiefs, I ordered
the marines and small-arm men of the squadron, in all about one
hundred and fifty, to be sent on shore, with their music, for exercise.
They had been well drilled to act on shore should occasion require,
and were provided for the occasion with blank cartridges. The
natives from far and near were collected to witness the review, and
few scenes that occurred during the voyage were as amusing as this.
The old and young were equally delighted, and it was ludicrous to see
them endeavouring to imitate the soldiers, in their marches and
countermarches. ‘They were not satisfied unless the drummers were
constantly beating, and were particularly delighted with the bass-drum.
The firing occasioned some alarm at first, but when they saw it did no
harm, they became reconciled to it, although even to the last they
would scamper off to a distance at each discharge.

The review left an impression on their minds of the superiority of
our arms that will not soon be forgotten.

The men were embarked at sunset, and had many jokes to relate ot
the conduct of the natives, and particularly old Pea, who on this, as
on other occasions, acted as master of the ceremonies.

During our stay in this group, we experienced two slight shocks of
earthquakes; their occurrence here is not unusual, but there is no
account of any damage having been done. Their motion is generally
tremulous and horizontal; one, however, has been experienced of a

VOL. Il. K2 15

114 UPOLU—MANONO—SAVAIL

wavy description. They are said by the foreigners often to produce
the sensation of sea-sickness.

On the 10th of November, the whole squadron was assembled in the
harbour of Apia, after having been actively engaged since the 8th of
October in examining the different islands, and making surveys of their
coasts and harbours, &c. This work was all expeditiously and well
done, with the exception of the south side of the island of Upolu, which
was imperfect in some respects; it was consequently re-surveyed in
the following year, and the charts finished. Besides the surveys, full
series of experiments were made in magnetism, and extensive collec-
tions obtained in natural history, botany, &c., the islands being
traversed by parties in several directions for this purpose. For the
results in these departments, the reader is referred to the Reports of
the Naturalists; and to the Hydrographic Atlas, for the charts.

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CONTENTS.

GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF THE SAMOAN GROUP—ITS HARBOURS-—ITS TIDES AND
CSURRENTS—ITS CLIMATE—SIZE OF THE ISLANDS—SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS OF THE
GROUP—ITS CULTIVATION—ITS QUADRUPEDS—ITS BIRDS—ITS REPTILES—ITS FISH —
ITS PRODUCTS AVAILABLE FOR COMMERCE—LANGUAGE OF ITS NATIVES— THEIR
DISEASES—THEIR GENERAL APPEARANCE—THEIR NATIONAL CHARACTER—LABOURS
OF THE MISSIONARIES—NATIVE MISSIONARIES—SELECTION OF THEM FOR THE NEW
HEBRIDES—POPULATION OF THE ISLANDS—RELIGION OF THE HEATHEN—THEIR IDEA
OF THE CREATION—OF A FUTURE STATE—THEIR OMENS—THEIR SUPERSTITION —
THEIR DANCES— THEIR MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS—THEIR AMUSEMENTS — PAPALANGI
SHIP— THEIR BIRTHS— THEIR MARRIAGES AND COURTSHIP — THEIR ADOPTION OF
CHILDREN—THEIR BURIALS—THEIR MOURNING—THEIR MANNERS AND APPEARANCE
—THEIR DRESS—IMPROVEMENTS IN THE ANCIENT DRESS—TATTOOING—THEIR MANU-
FACTURE OF TAPA AND MATS—SAMOAN CANOES — BOAT-SONG —HOUSES OF THE
NATIVES—THEIR LIGHTS—THEIR FOOD—THEIR HABITS— THEIR MALANGAS— THEIR
PUNISHMENTS FOR CRIMES—THEIR WARS—THEIR OLOS—THEIR PEACE-MAKING —
CLASSES OF SAMOAN SOCIETY—ALLOTMENT OF LANDS—MODE OF GOVERNMENT —
DESCENT OF CHIEFTAINSHIP—CEREMONIES AT THE FONOS.

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CHAPTER V.
SAMOAN GROUP.
1839.

Durine the time that the squadron remained in the Samoan Group,
all the islands of which it is made up were visited; not only were the
examinations, spoken of in the two preceding chapters, made, but thei
shores were minutely surveyed by boats; the meteorological instru
ments were duly registered; astronomic and magnetic observations
made, and a full record of the tides kept. We have thus obtained a
large amount of information, which will be more easily intelligible ina
condensed form, together with a great number of facts in relation to
the aboriginal population, which may be made more interesting when
applied to give a general view of the habits, character, and state of
civilization among the natives, than if dispersed in isolated remarks in
the accounts of the separate tours in which it was obtained.

The group lies between the latitudes of 13° 30’ and 14° 30’ S., and
the longitudes of 168° and 173° W. The islands, as has been seen,
agree in the general character of being of volcanic structure, and
having coral reefs; differing, however, in the modifications of these
formations, which have been from time to time described. ‘The
harbours are usually situated within the reefs, but Tutuila is an
exception to this rule, by the possession of the deep land-locked basin
of Pago-pago. This is, of all the ports, the one best adapted for the
refitting of vessels; but Apia, in Upolu, in the latitude of 18° 48'
56°6" 38., and longitude 171° 41' 09” W., is not so difficult of egress,
and in consequence of its proximity to the fertile district of Aana, the
most convenient for vessels seeking only a temporary anchorage and
refreshment.

The approach to Pago-pago, and the other harbours of the Samoar
(117)

118 AMOAN GROUP.

Isles, is not difficult; and as the soundings extend in some places for
a distance beyond the reefs, vessels may drop an anchor in case of
necessity.

The flood tide among these islands sets to the westward; beyond its
influence, on the southern side of the islands, a current generally pre-
vails to the eastward, while it runs westward on their northern side.
Vessels, therefore, when beating to windward, would find it to their
advantage to keep on the southern side of the group, where there is not
only a favourable current, but where the winds would be found more
regular, and calms less frequent.

Tidal observations were made contemporaneously at Tutuila, Upolu,
and Savaii; these show a regular difference of one hour in the tidal
wave between Tutuila and Upolu: the tide at Savali appears from the
record to have been more irregular than at the other islands, which
may in part be attributed to the extent of the reef, and the difficulties
that were encountered from the want of aid in making the observations.

The climate of these islands may be termed variable, and there is
much bad weather, particularly during the winter months, when long
and heavy rains, attended at times with high winds and northerly
gales, are frequent. Destructive hurricanes also occur, and of these
one is still recollected which blew down the bread-fruit trees, and
destroyed many of the houses.

The air is more moist than that of the Society Islands, and the vege-
tation in consequence more luxuriant. Thunder and lightning are often
experienced, but during the summer months light winds and calms are
the prevailing characters of the climate.

Some of our gentlemen made the remark, that, to judge from the
time at which the bread-fruit was gathered, there must be a great
difference between the seasons of this island and Tahiti; for when we
arrived at Tutuila, that product was ripe and in abundance, although
when we left Tahiti, only a few days before, it was unripe and not to
be had. The same remark was made in relation to the vi-apple
(Spondias dulcis.) But, by comparing the voyages of Cook and Wallis,
it would appear that the time of the year at which the bread-fruit is in
season at Tahiti is not constant, for both these navigators found it in
perfection, although they visited that island in different months. If
there be a difference between the time of the ripening of the bread-fruit
in the Society Islands and this group, the greater moisture and higher
mean temperature of the Samoan climate will account for it.

The temperature of the air at Apia varied from 77-7° to 80-2°; that
of the water from 81:25° to 83°75°.

The mean height of the barometer in the group was 30-128 in.

SAMOAN GROUP. 119

The islands of the Samoan Group contain two thousand six hundred
and fifty square miles, which are divided as follows, viz. :

Savaii ‘ : ; i i F : i 700
Upolu : : ° ° : : , ? 560
Tutuila . ‘ : 4 ‘ : ; ; 240
Manono . 3 A : c . ‘ 9
Apolima . : a ° . ° ° 7
Manua . é 3 é : 5 ¢ ° 100
Oloosinga . re : : : : : 24
Ofoo : , : ; : A y 10

The soil of all the islands is rich, and arises chiefly from the decom-
position of volcanic rocks. At Tutuila, it was remarked that the
vegetation was luxuriant, and the trees of large growth. At Upolu
the forests seemed more sombre than those of Brazil, although the same
kind of growth appeared to prevail.

The trees do not branch out until near the top, which renders it
difficult to obtain botanical specimens. ‘The trunks are covered, and
even the summits of the trees sometimes overgrown, with the leaves of
the scandent Flagellarias and Freycinetias, a climbing Piper, and other
vines, as Hoyas, Convolvulus, &c. The lower part of the trunks are
enveloped with ferns, of which there are many varieties, and with
some species of Pothos, which give the whole ground a matted or
woven appearance.

The woods in the interior of the islands are very thick, and often
composed of large and fine trees; among them are, tree-ferns, a species
of banyan, pandanus, and several species of palms. Among other
plants a species of Cerbera was observed, with beautiful clusters of
large and odorous white flowers, which yielded a quantity of white
viscous sap, that our botanist, Mr. Rich, thought might be manufac-
tured into caoutchouc. On the whole, the species of trees are much
more numerous than at Tahiti, and the vegetation in consequence
richer and more varied. The woods, however, are not enlivened by
showy flowers, and the few of these that are seen are of a white or
grayish hue, which is to be ascribed to their being but little exposed to
the rays of the sun, in consequence of the umbrageous foliage. Many
of the flowers seen on the ground were unknown to our botanist, as
were several fruits.

Among the trees which have been named, that which struck us as
most remarkable was the species of banyan (Ficus indica), called
in these islands Ohwa. Some of these were seen, whose pendant
branches had taken root in the ground to the number of thousands,
forming stems from an inch to two feet in diameter, uniting in the
main trunk more than eighty feet above the ground, and supporting a

I2U SAMOAN GROUP.

vast system of horizontal branches, spreading like an umbrella over

the tops of the other trees. For the sketch of one of these I am in-
debted to Mr. Peale.

Gi)
Hh) y

The bread-fruit is the most abundant of all the trees, and grows
here to a large size; the vi-apple, the cocoa-nut, and the wild orange
are also found in great numbers; and at Tutuila a large lime-tree was
seen in full bearing, which was said to have been planted before the
arrival of the missionaries.

Among the most singular of the vegetable productions is the stinging
tree, of which the natives are much afraid; for if its leaves be touched
an eruption is produced, particularly if the skin be wet. Its leaf is
cordate, but quite smooth.

The arborescent ferns are not as numerous as at Tahiti, but grow to
a larger size. The palms give a character of luxuriance to the country,
from the variety of their foliage. Rattans ninety feet in length were
seen running over the trees.

Bamboos and the wild sugar-cane were very common; the latter is
used in thatching houses: the wild ginger also abounds.

Of the wild nutmeg (Myristica,) two species were seen, which are
small trees, and likely to be passed without notice, were it not for the
peculiar manner in which branches grow out of the trunk, which is
in whirls, at regular intervals, like the white pine (Pinus strobus) of
our Northern States.

It was remarked that the character of the vegetation approached
more nearly to that of the East Indies than of the Society Islands, and
the leafless acacias were the type of those we afterwards saw in New
Holland; but there are some plants which appear peculiar to these
islands.

SAMOAN GROUP. 121

Many of the trees we have named, as well as other plants, are
objects of cultivation; but the ground cleared for this purpose does
not extend far from the coasts, near which all the villages are
situated.

To clear the land, the bark is burnt off the trees, after which they
are permitted to stand until they become dry, when they are cut down
and used as fuel.

The cultivated plants and trees are, bread-fruit (of which they have
twenty varieties), cocoa-nut, ti (Dracena), bananas, taro, paper-mul-
berry, tacca, from which arrow-root is made, and of which they have
several sorts; sugar-cane, which is not made into sugar, but used only
for thatching; coffee, ava (Piper mythisticum), sweet-potato, pine-
apple (Anana), brought by the missionaries from the Society Islands,
yams, the papaya, and tobacco in small quantities. The agave has
not been introduced; but in a few years lemons and sweet oranges
will be produced in great quantities from trees which have recently
been planted.

To the cultivation of the tacca they pay little attention, yet the
quality of the fecula (arrow-root) made from it is said to be superior.

The missionaries are endeavouring to teach the natives the best
mode of cultivating the sugar-cane and manufacturing it, and it is said
that a few persons have adopted the new methods. At present they
find a substitute for sugar in the root of the ti plant, which is baked
in ovens, and yields a large quantity of saccharine juice resembling
molasses.

Great attention is paid to the cultivation of the yam. They are
planted in October, and are ripe in February and March. The vines
run up the trees, and when they die, the root is known to be ripe.
To plant them, they are cut, like the potato, into pieces containing
eyes, which are laid in heaps and covered up until the sprout appears.
The pieces are then set out at distances of about three feet from each
other.

Hearing that there were some extensive savannas in Upolu, over-
grown with the wild sugar-cane, I directed Assistant-Surgeon Whittle
and Mr. Couthouy, to proceed to the east end of the island, where
they were said to grow. They, however, saw nothing of the kind
except a few small patches of that plant.

There are no traces among these islands of any native quadruped,
nor any other of the mammalia, except a species of bat (Pteropus
ruficollis), which is very destructive to the bread-fruit. Swine have
now become abundant, and the missionaries have introduced cattle,
which are rapidly increasing, and will in a few years be in sufficient

VOL. II. L 16

122 SAMOAN GROUP.

numbers for the supply of vessels. Horses have also been brought to
the islands.*

The first large quadruped ever seen by these islanders was a mule.
With it they were much astonished, and it was considered so great a
curiosity that it was carried around the island of Upolu for the
purpose of gratifying the natives with a sight of it. They gave it a
name, signifying—the hog that travels over the ground.

Poultry of all descriptions is plentiful, and pigeons abound, which,
however, are considered sacred, and not used as an article of food.
Of the latter bird (Columba oceanica), between sixty and seventy
specimens of different varieties were obtained, but it is remarkable
that of all these, none were the same as those found in the Society
Islands. ‘To the Zoological Report I would refer for further informa-
tion on this subject. There are but few birds of game, and none of
the hawk genus. A philomel was pointed out by the missionaries as
the principal singing bird, and the woods of Tutuila were filled with
warblers. The note of the philomel, although much praised, did not
appear agreeable to me.

The pigeon is commonly kept as a plaything, and particularly by
the chiefs; for this purpose they are fastened to a stick by a thread
about twelve feet in length. They are taught to fly from and return
to the stick, and when well tutored to this feat, the possessor of the
bird exhibits it with much pride and satisfaction. One of our officers
unfortunately on one occasion shot a pigeon, which caused great com-
motion, for the bird was a king-pigeon, and to kill it was thought as
great a crime as taking the life of a man. The people were not to be
pacified until the interpreter told them that the officer belonged to
“man-of-war,” which intelligence, together with a small present,
satisfied them, and the matter was settled.

To justify their regard for them, we were told that when the in-
habitants of Aana were driven away, about eight years since, by the
people of Manono, the pigeons abandoned the district, but that upon
their return to their homes, the pigeons again made their appearance
in their former abodes.

Snakes were found in Upolu, and sea-snakes are reported to have
been seen off the islands.

Fish are taken in the neighbouring waters in great abundance and
variety. Besides other modes of taking them, they are caught on the
reefs by women, who place baskets near the holes where they are
accustomed to take shelter. They are also speared by torchlight, and

* On Upolu there are now twenty head of cattle, and seven horses.

SAMOAN GROUP. 123

taken in deep water by the hook. Among the sea-fish, mullets are very
numerous, and are frequently seen leaping from the water in immense
shoals.

One of the modes in which fish are caught by the Samoans, was
witnessed at Samatau. About a dozen canoes formed themselves into
a ring around what appeared to be a dark circular spot in the water.
about six feet in diameter, and which was moving along with a slow
and unequal motion. This was a shoal of the small fish called lou,
which is about two inches in length. The shoal being thus surrounded,
the circle of canoes was gradually lessened, until the fish, finding them-
selves enclosed on all sides, ceased to move forward. At this moment,
the head fisher, who was seen standing up in the canoe with a net in
his hand, threw it dexterously over the shoal, upon which all the other
men dove at once from the boats, and remained for several seconds
under the water, where they secured the sides of the net. On reap-
pearing, all regained their canoes except four, who remained to take
charge of the net, which with its prize they conveyed to the chief.

These islands furnish abundant supplies for the refreshment of
vessels, but as yet there are few articles which can be rendered avail-
able in foreign commerce. Tortoise-shell, of which a little has at times
been procured at Savail, cocoa-nut oil, and arrow-root, are nearly all
that can be procured in quantities beyond the immediate wants of the
visiters. Caoutchouc, gum Arabic, castor beans, orris-root, ginger,
and coffee, might however be easily added to the list of exports. In
return for what they can furnish, the natives now look to objects of real
utility; beads, jews-harps, &c., once so much in request, are now
scarcely prized; and cotton cloth, writing-paper, and hardware, par-
ticularly needles and other small articles of utility, are the kinds of
manufactured goods which are most sought after.

The Samoan language is soft and smooth, and is the only one of the
Polynesian dialects in which the sound of s is found. The letters that
the missionaries have found necessary to adopt in order to write it, are
only fourteen in number, viz.:aEFGILMNOoPSTUv. In attempt-
ing to sound the words of other languages, they use ut instead of pr,
s for nu, and p instead of 8. ‘The a has a nasal sound, as in ong.

It has nearly the same construction as the Tahitian, nevertheless the
Samoan is far from being understood by the natives of the Society
Islands. The Samoans say that they never can acquire it—* their
jaws are too stiff” The missionaries also have great difficulty in
speaking it, and are liable to make many mistakes which appear absurd
to the natives. 7

124 SAMOAN GROUP.

We have seen that it possesses the sibilant sound of s, and every one
of the words terminates with a vowel.

A separate dialect is appropriate to the chiefs, all of whose actions,
the parts of their bodies, &c., have different names from those of the
common people. The Philological Report is referred to for further
information upon this subject.

Many of the Samoans reach the age of seventy or eighty years.
There is, however, a great mortality among the young children, which
is probably owing to their exposure to the weather. Those who sur-
vive, grow up robust and healthy.

Among. the diseases which afflict the adults, one of the most usual is
a spinal affection, which results in caries and produces humpback. This
is no doubt owing to the peculiar manner in which the children are
carried. Catarrhs and bronchial disorders, occasioned by the exposed
life of the natives, are prevalent, and a white resident died of phthisis
during our stay. The dysentery, as an epidemic, is unknown, but
sporadic cases of it occur, occasioned by imprudence in diet.

There is an eruptive complaint, called ilamea, which covers many
of the children under the age of ten years with sores, and which seems
more particularly to attack the face and head. The mode in which it
is treated is singular: the child is rubbed with the husks of the cocoa-
nut, until all the scabs are removed; a soft preparation of the bread-
fruit is then applied, after which they are washed. ‘This operation is
undergone every time they bathe, which is daily. When the bread-
fruit is not in season, a decoction of the husk of the cocoa-nut is used
in its place.

The elephantiasis prevails to a great extent among men who are
past the middle age; and some of the cases are truly frightful. There
are also many instances in which women are affected by it. It does
not appear to cause the least degree of pain. Among the reasons that
have been assigned for the frequency of this disease are, the habit of
eating their food without salt, and the use of cocoa-nut water ; to which
may be added exposure at night, and want of sufficient exercise. ‘The
latter cause, whether it be capable of producing this disease or not,
unquestionably exists; for they are in the habit of sitting for hours with
their legs bent under them, which must cause a stagnation of healthy
circulation. Laziness, however, cannot be ascribed to them as a part
of their national character, for they are disposed to exertion, and
willing to be employed. When, therefore, they have received sufficient
instruction, and civilization has taught them new wants, they will
probably become an industrious and thriving people.

SAMOAN GROUP. 125

Ophthalmia, which is supposed to arise from the reflection of the
sun from the sandy beaches near which all their villages are built, is
so prevalent, that, to speak within bounds, not less than a fifth part of
the population is affected with it.* In most cases it was observed to
begin on the inner corner of the eye, whence it extends gradually
over the pupil, until the sight is completely lost. As the disease
advances, the thickness of the film increases, and when it has covered
the eye, that organ becomes enlarged and appears to project. From
appearances it would not be difficult to remove the film, and thus cure
the disorder; but the natives have not made any attempt of the kind.
Several cases of total blindness arising from this disorder were seen.

The venereal disease does not exist at Tutuila, and is hardly known
in the other islands. This serves to prove how great a superiority this
island possesses over, Tahiti in the chastity of its females, who in gene-
ral observe their marriage vow with strict fidelity.

Fevers are rare, and those of a remittent and intermittent type are
unknown; in fact, the geological formation of these islands is by no
means favourable to the generation of the miasmata that cause them.

No means of medical assistance are attached to the English mission,
and the missionaries, therefore, can do but little in alleviating the mala-
dies of the natives. Even their slight knowledge of remedies affords
some alleviation, and their practice is far preferable to that of the
natives, who always abandon to their fate those who are very ill.

Among the few curative means that the natives do employ is a sort
of shampooing. This is performed by rubbing the body and limbs
with the hands, at first gently, and gradually more and more roughly.
These manipulations are applied as a restorative after fatigue, and to
alleviate pain. For the former purpose they are effectual, and often
abate, if they do not remove, the latter. ,

Among all the Polynesian islanders, the men of Samoa rank, in
point of personal appearance, second only to the Tongese; and many
specimens of manly beauty are to be seen among them. As much
cannot be said of the women, who are rather ill-formed and stout.
When very young, however, some of them are pretty, and their colour
is light, being little darker than that of a brunette or South American
Spaniard. The girls are lively, have a good expression of counte-
nance, and, what is rare in Polynesia, have some degree of bashful-
ness.

The average height of the men is five feet ten inches, and some of

* It is so common at Savaii, that at least one case of blindness, in one or both eyes, is to
be seen in every family.
L2

126 SAMOAN GROUP.

the chiefs, whose limbs are well rounded, would be called fine-looking
men in’ any part of the world. Their features are not in general
prominent, but are well marked and distinct, and are all referable to a
common type. The nose is short and wide at the base; the mouth
large and well filled with white and strong teeth, with full and well-
turned lips; the eyes black, and often large and bright; the forehead
narrow and high; and the cheek-bones prominent. It was observed
that some of them had the eye turned up at the outer corner like the
Chinese. Of beard, they have but little, but their hair is strong,
straight, and very black; instances, however, were observed, where it
had been turned to a carroty red, by washing it with lime-water for
the purpose of destroying the vermin (Pediculus humanus).

Little difference was perceived in the shape of the heads of the two
sexes, for observing which there is a good opportunity among those
who have embraced Christianity, who shave off their hair. The
general form of the skull is broad and short, and is highest near the
crown.

When the islands were first visited, the natives were represented as
ferocious and treacherous. This arose in a great degree from the
bloody conflict they had with the boats of La Perouse’s squadron;
and the opinion was kept up by the just resentment they in some cases
manifested for wrongs committed on them by lawless visiters. The
instance of Opotuno, however, shows that this idea of their character
is not entirely without foundation. Viewed in a more favourable
light, they are, as we found them, kind, good-humoured, intelligent,
fond of amusements, desirous of pleasing, and very hospitable. Both
sexes show great kindness and love for their children, and age is so
much respected that only old men are admitted to council. As a
shade on this picture, they are indolent, covetous, fickle, deceitful, and
little reliance can be placed upon them. ‘To illustrate these features
of their character: the first question asked when a chief receives a
visiter is, “ What present will you take?” for they consider it incum-
bent upon them to bestow some token of regard, and a neglect to offer
it would be indecorous. This custom was always complied with,
when any of our officers visited them, and although it was evident
they did not wish to part with any thing valuable, their choicest
possessions were exhibited as if for the choice of the stranger. On
the refusal of their offered presents, great joy was always to be ob-
served in their countenance and manner, showing that they rejoiced in
an escape from loss, while they had at the same time performed the
prescribed rites of hospitality. This risk being over, they were too
happy to supply us with cocoa-nuts and fruits. In spite, however, of

SAMOAN GROUP. 127

the apparent liberality with which these were furnished, they do it in
expectation of a full return. In pursuance of this hospitality, it is the
custom when a stranger passes through a village without showing an
intention to stop, to follow him and offer food.

The Samoans are usually very inquisitive, and it was amusing to
excite their curiosity. Among other things mentioned for the purpose
was, that white men often wore false teeth and wigs. The latter
practice in particular seemed strange to them, and they called it
“thatching the head.” A terrestrial globe was also shown to some of
them, whereon the position of their islands and their small relative
importance was pointed out. This excited great surprise, for until
within a few years they had no idea that there was any country except
their own. —

If the chiefs are liberal in their tenders of presents to their visiters,
they on the other hand do not hesitate to ask for whatever they see.
They may, in fact, be styled sturdy beggars. One of the most
persevering in his mendicancy, was no less a person than Vavasa,
the proud and overbearing chief of Manono. They usually began
with begging from the humblest individual, and ended with the highest ;
and when they had obtained all they could, would go over the side of
the ship ridiculing our folly for giving so much.

Old Pea, by way of excusing himself when charged with being a
great beggar, said he did not keep any thing he got for himself; that
it was the Samoan fashion always to ask for every thing he saw. It
mattered not if his request was refused, he was as content as if he
obtained what he desired, but he said he should have blamed himself
if he had not asked.

The beneficial effects of the labours of the missionaries are more
evident among the Samoans than at Tahiti. The spread of the gospel
has not been opposed by evil habits of the same inveterate character,
and the natives of this group have been more easily reclaimed from
their vices than those of the Society Islands. ‘The greatest obstacle to
the success of the missionaries has arisen from the presence of a few
abandoned white men, who attach themselves to the heathen chiefs.
Their opposition, although injurious to the missionary cause, yields
little benefit to themselves, for of every thing they acquire, the chief
under whose protection they are, takes half; and although no opposition
is ever made to their departure from the islands, they are not permitted
to take any thing with them. The vices of these men excite the
disgust of the more well-disposed of the natives, who often express their
astonishment at their ignorance of sacred subjects, and ask if it be pos-
sible that such men can have been brought up in a civilized community.

128 SAMOAN GROUP.

The first attempt to introduce Christianity is related to have occurred
in the following manner. Some years before the arrival of the
missionaries, a vessel was wrecked upon the island of Upolu, and her
cargo seized upon by the natives, many of whom, even to the present
day, regret that they did not then understand what riches were thus
placed at their disposal. Their mode of treating the prize was farcical
in the extreme: pipes were made out of candlesticks, clothing was
thrown away as valueless, and many injured themselves with the fire-
arms. ‘The crew were well treated, and fed for a long time, although
the natives were greatly astonished at the quantities of pigs required
for their support, and entertained fears lest they should breed a famine
in the land. The captain advised his crew to turn missionaries, and
set them the example himself. He met with much success, and
succeeded in building several churches, until, upon the arrival of the
English missionaries, he was compelled to relinquish his assumed
occupation. It is not probable that even the captain was deeply
versed in religious knowledge, and very certain that the crew could
not have been; but their success appears to have arisen from the great
veneration with which white men were at first regarded by the
Samoans. They looked upon them as a sort of spirit, whom it was
impossible to hurt or to kill; and the ships first seen off the coast were
considered as heavenly messengers, prognosticating some dreadful
calamity. The bad conduct of their nautical visiters has destroyed
this reverence, and foreigners generally no longer meet the kind
welcome they formerly received; this observation does not apply to
the missionaries, who receive all the honour that is due to their good
intention, of which the natives are fully aware.

The Wesleyan missionaries, and those of the British Board, reached
these islands about the same time, or the former were perhaps the first
to arrive. The influence of the Wesleyan tenets, and the number of
their followers, increased rapidly under the superintendence of the
Rev. Mr. Turner. Difficulties, however, arose between the two parties
of missionaries, which were finally adjusted between the two boards in
London, and the Wesleyans abandoned this field for that of the Feejee
Group. This arrangement was amicably made, and [| heard of only
one individual on either side, who showed an uncharitable spirit
towards his fellow-labourers of the other party. In spite of the removal
of the Wesleyans, there is still a large number of the natives who
adhere to the tenets and forms taught them by Mr. Turner, and still
retain a strong attachment to him.

. The missionaries were from the very first taken under the protection
of the most powerful chiefs, and have never received either insult or

SAMOAN GROUP. 129

injury from any of the natives. They have established schools in
many of the villages, but have found a difficulty in obtaining native
teachers.

A printing-press has also been established at Upolu, and rapid
progress is making in the translation of the Scriptures, of which some
portions are already published. Many publications have issued from
this press: among them I regretted to observe a small tract containing
a violent attack upon the Roman Catholics. The sight of this sur-
prised me, as it contradicted the opinion I had formed, from my
intercourse with the missionaries, of their liberality and freedom from
intolerance. The sole object of the tract was to prepossess the minds
of the natives against the missionaries of the Papal Church, in case
they should visit these islands. This struck me as being at variance
with the first principles of our religion; and I could not refrain from
expressing an opinion that the tract was calculated to do much harm.

The labours of the English missionaries have been much aided by
native assistants, who have been both industrious and successful; and
among them, those of Raratonga have the merit of having led the
way. ‘They have acted under the direction of Mr. Williams, and he
was loud in praise of their exertions. I witnessed a most interesting
meeting of these native missionaries, for the purpose of selecting nine
from their number to accompany Mr. Williams to the New Hebrides,
which has perhaps left a more deep impression on my mind from the
melancholy result of that attempted mission.

Great anxiety was exhibited by the candidates; and I have never
seen a more proper state of feeling, or listened to more correct senti-
ments than were expressed on this occasion. All appeared devoted to
their calling, and some of them were quite eloquent. After the choice
was announced, those upon whom it had fallen manifested a cheerful
but not unbecoming triumph, while the rejected candidates were
evidently grieved and disappointed. ‘The former were now imvested
with new apparel, which, although no more than a striped cotton
shirt,* gave them an air of consequence among their brethren, which
was amusing to us who could draw comparisons between this simple
garment and prouder kinds of canonicals.

Each of the resident missionaries now delivered a long harangue,

* This garment is the only remuneration that they receive during each year from the
missionary funds, and with it they feel themselves well requited.

I have to acknowledge the obligation under which I feel myself to the missionaries, both
individually and collectively, for their kindness and attention. They did all in their power
to further the objects of the Expedition, and to them the squadron is mainly indebted for a
great part of the facilities we enjoyed of becoming acquainted with the manners, habits, and
customs of the Samoans.

VOL. II. 17

130 SAMOAN GROUP.

which was replied to by one of the selected. The subjects of these
discourses were, on the one hand, advice in reference to the duties
about to be entered upon, and on the other a recognition of the weight
of the responsibility incurred by the successful candidates.

Most, if not all, of those selected for the new mission were fine-
looking men, and they were chosen out of many applicants, for their
steady habits and strict moral conduct. The term of their engage-
ment on the new duty was three years, after which they were to return
to their wives and children, who were not to accompany them.

The extent and influence of the labours of the missionaries may be
best understood by a comparison between the whole population of the
islands, with the numbers of those who have embraced Christianity,
and attend the schools.

The entire population of the group is estimated at 56,600, of whom
14,850 have embraced Christianity, and 12,300 attend the schools.
These numbers are thus distributed :

PROFESSORS OF

ISLANDS. POPULATION. |! 2k es ae PUPILS.
| Eastern Group . . 2,000 150 150
Atay eae eu 8,000 2,200 1,900
eUpoliy We. ay ei 25,000 8,000 6,200
SEC Geo mene 20,000 4,000 3,700
Manono. . . s.. 4 1,100 400 230
Apolima .. . «56 500 100 120
Total, 56,600 14,850 12,300

a heater a

The whole number of foreign missionaries is eleven, of whom one
resides in Tutuila, six in Upolu, three in Savaii, and one in Manono.

The number of native teachers is one hundred and thirty-eight, of
whom five are in the Eastern Group, thirty-one in Tutuila, fifty in
Upolu, thirty-six in Savaii, twelve in Manono, and four in Apolima.

Besides those counted as having actually embraced Christianity, it
is said that two-thirds of the whole population belong to the Christian
party.

Of those who attend the schools, about ten thousand read, and this
newly introduced habit has of course made a very great change in the
habits of a majority of the people, but the number of heathen still left
is sufficient to furnish an idea of their original manners and customs,

SAMOAN GROUP. 131

which will in a few years be either entirely lost, or so modified by the
spread of the gospel as to change their character entirely. The
rapidity with which this change is going on, rendered it desirable to
obtain as much information as possible in relation to the pristine
manners of this people.

As respects their ancient religion, we have obtained the following
particulars of the heathens. They acknowledge one great god, whom
they call Tangaloa-lagi, but pay less worship to him than to their war-
gods, Tamafaiga, Sinleo, and Onafanua. The first entices them to
war, the second leads them to it, and the third is a female goddess,
who encourages them to fight.

Mafuie is their god of earthquakes, who was deemed to possess
great power, but has, according to the Samoans, lost much of it.
The way in which they say this occurred is as follows. One Talago,
who possessed a charm capable of causing the earth to divide, coming
to a well-known spot, cried, “ Rock, divide! I am Talago; come to
work!” The earth separating at his command, he went down to
cultivate his taro-patch. His son, whose name was Tiitii, became
acquainted with the charm, and watching his father, saw him descend,
and the earth close after him. At the same spot, Tiitii said, “ Rock,
divide! Iam Talago; come to work!” ‘The rock did not open, but
on repeating the words, and stamping his foot violently, the earth
separated, and he descended. Being a young man, he made a great
noise and bustle, notwithstanding the advice of his father to be quiet,
lest Mafuie would hear him. The son then asked, “ Who is Mafuie,
that I should be afraid of him?” Observing smoke at a distance, he
inquired the cause of it. Talago said, “It is Mafuie heating his oven.”
Tiitii determined to go and see, notwithstanding all the persuasions of
his father, and met Mafuie, who inquired who he was. “Are you a
planter of taro, a builder, or a twister of ropes?” “I am a twister of
ropes,” said Titi; “give me your arm, and I shall show you.” So
taking the arm of Mafuie, he twisted it off in a moment. Such a
practical illustration of his powers soon made Mafuie cry out, «Na
fia ola, na fia ola!”—I desire to live, I desire to live! Tiitii then took
pity upon him, and let him go. The natives, on feeling an earthquake,
exclaim, “Thanks that Mafuie has but one arm! if he had two, he
would shake the earth to pieces.”

The god Salefu supports the earth. They have likewise Mesua,
Faana, Tinitini, Lamamau, who are gods of lightning, rain, whirl-
winds, &c. These gods are said to reside on an island to the west-
ward, from which quarter their bad weather usually comes.

They had, likewise, many inferior gods, who watched over particular

132 SAMOAN GROUP..

districts. ‘These various gods owned certain animals, reptiles, fish,
and birds. In some few districts inanimate objects were worshipped,
thus: a branch of bamboo, with a bunch of cocoa-nut fibres tied on
the top, was worshipped in Manono. They also had carved blocks
of wood and stone erected in memory of dead chiefs, which they
worshipped.

The account they give of the creation of their island is as follows:

Tangaloa, their great god, who lives in the sky, sent down the bird
Tuli (a kind of snipe), his daughter, to look what was below. She
reported to her father that she saw nothing but sea. Tangaloa then
rolled a stone from heaven, which became the island of Savaii, and
another which produced Upolu, and the same for the others.

This did not suit Tuli, who returned to ask for inhabitants. He gave
her orders to plant the wild vines (fuefue), which after growing were
ordered by him to be pulled up and thrown into heaps, from which
worms were produced. Then it was desirable that they should become
human. Spirits were accordingly sent to them by Tuli, and the worms
became man and woman.

Their notions of a future existence are quite vague. They believe,
however, in a happy future state, where every thing good is provided.
Some say that it is on their own island, others on distant islands, and
for the chiefs at the residence of the gods on Pulotu, an island to the
westward. They also believe that the spirit goes there immediately
after death; that in these places it never rains; that they eat and drink
there without labour, and are waited upon by the most beautiful
women, who are always young, or as a chief expressed it to one of
our officers, “ whose breasts never hang down.”

The spirits, according to their belief, often come down to wander
about at night around their former dwellings; some spirits are believed
to die, while others are immortal ; some dwell in subterranean abodes,
and are eaten by the gods. Some persons believe that after death they
become “ aitus,” or inferior gods.

They believed in many omens, which were carefully watched. If
the black stork, called matuu, flew before them on a war expedition, in
the direction they were going, they deemed it betokened success; but
if in any other direction, it was an ill omen. If a dim moon, or very
bright starlight, or comet, were observed, it always indicated the death
of a chief; and a rainbow was a sign of war.

The squeaking of rats was an unfortunate omen. Sneezing was also
considered unlucky; if any one of a party sneezed on a journey, their
further progress was postponed.

I was told that the Samoans have a great dread of being abroad in

SAMOAN GROUP. 133

the dark, and that when obliged to pass about their villages by night,
they use flambeaux made of the dried stalks of the cocoanut-leaf to
light them on their way. ‘This fear is partly owing to superstition,
which makes them fearful of encountering some spirit or aitu, with
which their imaginations people the groves, springs, rocks, trees, &c.
They are in the habit of occasionally making a feast for the king’s
aitu, when a number of pigs are prepared, and a quantity of taro, fruit,
&c., is gathered. The portion for the aitu is placed near his supposed
dwelling-place, and the dependants and others enjoy themselves on the
remainder.

They were formerly in the habit of presenting their first fruits to the
aitus and chiefs. This custom still continues among the heathen, but
the Christian party present theirs to the missionaries. ‘The ceremony
usually takes place in January or February. In drinking ava, the first
cup was always presented to the gods. .

There is an account of a large lizard which dwells on the south side
of the island, and is worshipped as an aitu. The description given of
it makes it two fathoms long and as large round as a cocoa-nut tree,
with huge scales, and a mouth filled with sharp teeth. It is said to
dwell in a stream near Safata, into which the natives frequently throw
meat. Some of them declare that they have seen him, and that he has
dwelt there upwards of fifty years.

It is not remarkable, however, that they should have this tradition ;
and this circumstance affords an additional proof that they have had
frequent intercourse with the Tonga, or Friendly Islands, where a
similar tradition is spoken of in Mariner’s Tonga Islands.

Among their other superstitions is that of a malignant spirit that
resides in the vicinity of Apolima, in the shape of an enormous eel, of
from six to ten fathoms long, and large in proportion, which attacks
canoes and drags them down. e

A story is told that is said to have happened only a few years ago.
While two natives of Manono were swimming across the’ channel in
the reef, they were drowned in the sight of many others; immediately
a large canoe was manned, and went in quest of them; the crew of
this canoe encountered the monster, and wounded it. The canoe was
upset, and although a few saved themselves by swimming to the shore,
the greater part of them were destroyed. When asked if it was not a
shark, (of which they have two kinds, the tanifa, or great white shark,
and the masi, or small blue one,) they replied, it was a monstrous pasi,
which is the name applied to the murcena or conger eel.

Their dances and other amusements are in a great degree abolished,

but they are still practised in the heathen villages, and even the
M

134 SAMOAN GROUP.

Christian women may still. be induced to exhibit the former, which
they call stva. The mode of performing it differs from that of the
Tahitians, but is like it lascivious, and neither of them would be called
dances in our sense of the term. ‘The dance is usually performed by
young girls, who stand up before the audience, throwing their arms,
legs, feet, and hands, in numerous strange attitudes, which are any
thing but graceful. The others who are present sing amusing words,
in two or three parts, while a third or fourth part is kept up ina
coarse grunt or guttural sound, in the bass clef. ‘The words are com-
prised in short sentences, each of which finishes suddenly with a
staccato note, and a violent gesture. ‘The music of one of the dances
at Tutuila was as follows:

as pease Re -—————
myeees| soe [ereele

The females, unlike those of Tahiti, have not many musical voices
among them, but, in common with other uncivilized races, have a
perfect knowledge of time.

The men, on the contrary, produce round rich sounds, rather below
tenor, but as wild as nature would have them to be.

The dance of the girls at Upolu consisted entirely of motions of the
body, and was so indelicate as to produce disgust. ‘The chaunt which
accompanied it was sung with a high voice, and three or four women
were employed in beating time on the mats with short sticks, in which
most of the spectators joined with their hands. In all cases they kept
time with the greatest accuracy.

The Samoan drum is made of a part of a tree, hollowed out; they
have also aminstrument, formed of a loose slat fitted into a board, on
which they beat time with two sticks. Their flute, if it may be so
called, is made of bamboo, as are also their pipes, which resemble those
of Pan. :

The dances of the men are by no means indecorous. Those who
perform them vary in number from two to a dozen, and are divided
into two parties. These parties alternately advance and retreat,
which gives an appearance of animation. Clapping their hands,
swinging them to and fro, or clasping them over their heads, they
follow each other in a cifcle, leaping up and down, and turning
suddenly around, keeping time to the music. The dances continue
a considerable time, and end with a sudden clap of the hands and a
simultaneous shout. |

SAMOAN GROUP. 135

The music to which they danced in Upolu, was as follows:

The song is usually extemporaneous, relating to some recent occur-
rence. The following is a translation of one of them, obtained by Mr.
Couthouy through one of the interpreters.

The Papalangi has come to Samoa,

The Papalangi has come to Vaiusu,

Let us all go down to the spring.

The Papalangi is fond of the Siva.

Where is the pig? Where is the fattened fowl?
The Papalangi cannot join in the Siva.

Kindle up a bright blaze! Where are the virgins?
I am going to get some cocoa-nuts.

Look at this Samoan, how finely he dances!

These dances are usually performed in the fale-tele, where stran-
gers are entertained. The inhabitants and their guests occupy different
ends of the building, and alternately keep up the dancing and singing.
Through the latter all the news is made known, occurrences related.
and inquiries made and answered.

Many of the nights are spent in this way; and much of the day-
time in eating, bathing, and sleeping.

Besides these dances, there are various games. One of these, called
“lupe,” is played by two persons, who sit opposite each other. One
of them presents his closed fist to his opponent, and then rapidly holds
up one, two, three, or all the fingers and the thumb, striking the back
of his hand on the mat at the same time. If his opponent fails of.

instantly holding up a like number of fingers, he loses a point, and ten
points finish the game.

136 SAMOAN GROUP.

“Lafo litupa” is also played by two persons, who place about fifty
beans of the Mimosa scandium before them; then taking up four at a
time, they throw them up in the air, and catch them on the back of
the hand; the player who catches a hundred soonest is the winner.

Tuae-fua: this is played by five or six persons. It resembles the
sport of the Chinese jugglers with iron balls. ‘The first player some-
times takes as many as eight oranges, throwing them successively into
the air, and endeavours to keep the whole in motion at once. They
are very dexterous at this: if they miss three times, the game is lost.

Tui-muri affords the natives much amusement. Any number of
persons may play at it. They seat themselves in a circle, and divide
into two parties. An orange is suspended from above, about two feet
from the ground, and each person is supplied with a small sharp-
pointed stick. The orange is swung round, and as it passes, each one
endeavours to pierce it, some with great eagerness, others quite calmly,
and others again with a wary coolness, all of which affords much
amusement to the bystanders. ‘The party wins who first succeeds in
fairly hitting the orange fifty times. :

It is played for mats, trinkets, &c., but more generally for a baked
pig, which is eaten when the play is over.

Litia: this is a general sport, sometimes whole villages playing
against each other; it is in fact an exercise in spear-throwing. ‘Two
parties furnish themselves with light sticks of the Hibiscus tiliaceus,
about eight or ten feet long and as thick as a finger. The bark is
stripped off, which makes them very light. The two parties arrange
themselves in a line, and strive to throw these as far as possible; the
party which succeeds in throwing’ fifty the farthest wins the game.
The usual distance to which they are thrown is about forty yards, and
one would conceive it almost impossible for them to be thrown so far.
A ‘grand feast usually terminates the sport, which the losing party
pays for.

«Lafe,” is a game confined to the chiefs, who play it for pastime.
Four persons sit at the corners of a mat, ten or twelve feet long, in
whose centre is placed another of ten inches square; the persons at
opposite corners are partners; each party is provided with five circular
pieces of cocoa-nut shells, from two inches in diameter to half a cocoa-
nut. The first player lays his smallest piece on the little mat, and his
opponent tries to knock it off, and leave his own in its place. Each in
his turn endeavours to knock his opponent’s pieces off. ‘The party
which first succeeds in knocking its opponent’s pieces off one hundred
‘times, wins the game. The pieces of cocoa-nut are finely polished and
carved with a variety of devices.

SAMOAN GROUP. 137

‘Sham club-fights and wrestling-matches are common, and frequently
end in broken heads, limbs, and teeth knocked out.

An odd amusement of the natives was seen in the forest, in one of
the clearings near one of the heathen villages, and at a short distance
from Apia, (the vignette gives a good idea of it.) A fine large tree
had been lopt of its branches (except at the very top), for a mast;
around this a framework of timber, after the model of a vessel, was
constructed; all the timbers were carefully fastened together with
sennit, and with the requisite curvature; from the bow a large and
long piece of timber projected, and at the stern a rudder was contrived,
with its tiller; but instead of its ordinary movements as with us, it was
intended to act vertically, in the way to which they are accustomed
in managing or steering their large canoes with an oar; vines and
creepers were used for the rigging; ballast had likewise been placed in
the hold. og .

This afforded them: great amusement, and showed an ingenuity in
the construction of this Papalangi ship, as they called it, which had
cost them much time and labour. 3

There is no ceremony at births, or indeed any inconvenience. The
mother generally proceeds immediately to the spring, bathes and
washes her infant, and at the. same time her usual occupations are
resumed. The naming of the child frequently takes place some time

VOL. II. 18

138 SAMOAN GROUP.

before its birth, for sex makes no difference in the names, which are —
given indiscriminately to males and females.

The mothers often suckle their children until they are six years old;
and I was told of an instance where a woman gave nourishment to
three children of different ages at once, the eldest removing the
youngest sometimes by force from the mother’s breast.

It is their practice to wash the children frequently in the fresh-water
streams.

When a native wishes to get a wife, the consent of the chief is first
obtained. Then he takes a basket of bread-fruit, and offers it to the
girl of his choice. His suit is considered as accepted if she partakes
of it. He must then pay her parents a certain price for her, which
varies with the station and ability of the parties. A chief’s daughter is
valued high, viz., at half a dozen hatchets and as many fathoms of cloth.

Another mode of courtship is to go to the house of the object of
attachment or desire, and be entertained. If the family show a friendly —
feeling towards the young man and eat with him, his addresses are
favourably received. ‘The formal offer is made by a large present to
the family of the female, which being accepted, the match is made, and
if refused, the courtship is at an end. The parents expect their children
to abide by their decision. ‘The “ Malo” party have been in the habit
of taking wives from their conquered enemies when they thought
proper. Ata marriage ceremony a great feast is made, particularly
if it be a chief's. ;

A man is at liberty to repudiate his wife and marry again on certain
conditions, but the woman cannot leave her husband without his
consent.

Adultery was formerly punished with death, and is very seldom
committed. Among single women, intercourse with a Samoan before
marriage, is a reproach, but not with transient foreigners.

It is a common practice for parents to make a present of their
children to chiefs or others, who adopt the child as their own, and
treat it ever after as such. After it is grown up, one-half of its earn-
ings goes to its adopted parent. This custom gives the chiefs many
adopted children of both sexes, who continue to live with them, and
are in all respects treated as their own; and spreads their connexions
far and wide. %

In their burials at Upolu, they have but little ceremony. The body
is enveloped in many folds of tapa, and deposited, as has already been
described at Tutuila, with the ti planted around. No utensils, arms,
&c., are deposited with the bodies; for, according to their belief, they
have these things provided for them in their Elysium. A feast is made

SAMOAN GROUP. 139

for the attendants, consisting of pigs, taro, bread-fruit, é&c. ; presents
are made by all the relatives to the family of the deceased, and if the
family can afford it, a small canoe is procured for a coffin. After the
body has lain in the grave some time, they take up the skull and place
it in a box in their houses. The reason assigned for this is to prevent
their enemies from possessing themselves of it, for it was a custom in
their wars to violate the sanctity of the grave. We heard that a few
of the bodies of chiefs had been preserved by oil and heat; and the
missionaries informed me that they had seen the bodies of those who
died thirty or forty years before, preserved in this manner.

Their mode of showing their grief is to burn themselves to blisters,

(forming indelible marks,) with little rolls of twisted tapa, which, on
being lighted, soon produced a coal. They also scratch their bodies.
The females are said (in token of affliction for deceased friends) to
have pricked holes in the corpse, and sucked out the fluids. All these
practices may be now said to be passing away, and are almost
obliterated.
_ There is already a very great difference, not only in dress but in
appearance, between those who have adopted Christianity, and those
who adhere to heathenism. ‘The latter have a wild look, to which
their long hair, tied in a bunch behind, adds not a little; and when
going to war they let it hang down in wild confusion, which increases
their savage appearance.

DEVIL MAN.

On the other hand, the Christians crop their hair short,—a fashion
which was introduced by the missionaries. |
The hair of the children is cropped close, except a lock on each

. side of the head. The manners of the people in the Christian and

140 SAMOAN GROUP.

heathen villages are as different as their appearance. In the latter
no schools are seen, nor any of the incipient marks of civilization.
Their reception of strangers in the Christian villages is always kind
and hospitable, although, as has been stated, a return is looked for.
Among the heathen, the manner of reception cannot be counted upon
with certainty, for they at one time welcome their visiters with cor-
diality, and at another are rude, insolent, and anxious to obtain all the
strangers possess. When in good humour, they entertain their guests
with the lascivious dances we have described, performed by native
girls. Their whole manner and conduct are so different from those
of villages within a short distance of them, that the effect produced
on the latter by the instruction of the missionaries, appears almost
miraculous. f

In the heathen villages the dress of the Samoans is to be seen in
its primitive simplicity. It is no more than the titi, which is a short
apron and girdle of the leaves of the ti (Dracena), tied around the -
loins and falling down to the thighs. 'The women besmear themselves.
with cocoa-nut oil mixed with turmeric, which gives them a shining
yellow tint, that is considered as a beauty ; on each breast is a spot of
reddish brown, of a singular shape, and of various sizes, from that of
a dollar to that of a dessert-plate. They do not show the least sign of
feminine bashfulness, while those of the Christian villages cover their
bosoms, and exhibit as much modesty as those of any country.

SAMOAN GIRL.

During the last ten years the dress of the natives has undergone
much change; the titi has been increased in length, and extends all
round the body; it has a neat and pretty effect when first put on, but
requires renewing often, as the leaves wilt in a few days; this garment:

SAMOAN GROUP. 141

is well adapted to the climate, being cool, and the necessity of frequent
change insures cleanliness.

The Wesleyan missionaries from the Friendly Islands have intro-
duced the siapo, of Tonga, which has now come into common use. It
is soft, pliable, and not glazed, and is principally used as a wrapper,
after the manner of the pareu of the Tahiti Islanders. A piece of
cotton cloth is usually worn by the chiefs as a siapo.

The maro is worn when engaged in active exercise, or In war, as
being less cumbrous. The women often wear a beautifully white
shaggy mat (ie sina), hanging from the neck to the feet. It is woven
by hand from the fine threads of the hibiscus; they also sometimes
wear wrappers of the siapo form, and the tiputa, a kind of poncho, of
the same material, after the old fashion of the Tahitians, which is
more becoming than the loose gown introduced into that island by the
missionaries.

There is another kind of mat, of very fine texture, worn on great
occasions, and used in their dances asa kind of cloak. It is orna-
mented with a border of red feathers. This is the most valuable
property they possess, for they cost much pains to the manufacturers,
and are often a year or eighteen months in their hands.

In the way of ornaments they use but few. The men usually wear
a shell (the ovula) suspended around the neck by a string.

Their hair formerly claimed much of their attention, as it does still
that of the heathen, who, as has been seen, wear it long and have it
nicely combed and twisted up in a knot on the top of the head. The
females frequently used to wear a wreath of flowers, which gave them
a picturesque and pleasant appearance; but the use of flowers as orna-
ments has been interdicted by the missionary teachers.

Tattooing, if not in reality, at least in appear-
ance, may be said to form a part of dress. It is
performed by persons who make it a regular
business. ‘The age at which it takes place is
from fourteen to eighteen, and is usually con-
sidered the initiation to manhood. The usual
colouring matter is obtained from the kernel of
the candle-nut. Tattooing is here called ta-ta-
tau, and is tastefully drawn. The natives are
very fond of it. It is expensive to the family,
for the operator always receives a high price
for his labour, consisting of the finest mats,
siapo, and other property, as agreed upon
before the operation is begun. The instrument

142 SAMOAN GROUP.

used is made of bone, sharp like the teeth of a comb, and requires but
a slight blow to enter the skin. The part tattooed on the males is from
the loins to the thighs, but the women have only a few lines on their
hands and bodies.

The articles of which their dress is composed are manufactured by
the females, who are exceedingly industrious. The common cloth or
tapa is made of the inner bark of the paper-mulberry, which is culti-
vated for the purpose in nurseries. It is cut when the stem is about one
and a half inches in diameter; the inner bark is separated and washed
in water, which deprives it of some of its gum; it is then beaten until
the adhesion of the fibres forms many of the strips into a single mass.
The mallet used for this purpose is about two inches square, and about
fourteen inches long, with a handle at one end; two of its faces are
grooved and the other two smooth; the bark is laid on a board, and
struck with the mallet in a direction at right angles with its fibres; the
grooved sides are used to spread out the fibres, and the smooth ones to
knit them together. The grooves also give a thready appearance to
the surface,

This method differs from that practised at ‘Tahiti, where the bark is
beaten with a smaller mallet, upon a spring-board; and the tapa made
here is of inferior quality. The tapa is often printed with colours in
patterns. This is performed in a mode similar to that practised in
Europe before the introduction of copper rollers. Instead of engraved
blocks, they form tablets, about as thick as binder’s boards, of pieces
of large cocoa-nut leaves, by sewing them together. One side of the
tablet is kept smooth and even, and upon this cocoa-nut fibres are
sewed so as to form the required pattern, which is of course raised
upon the surface of the tablet. ‘These tablets are wet with a piece of
cloth well soaked in the dye, after which the tapa, which for this pur-
pose is well bleached and beautifully white, is laid upon them and
pressed into close contact. The dye is made from herbs and roots, and
is of various colours.

The women also manufacture the mats. Some of these have been
mentioned in describing the dress of the natives: the finest kinds are
made of the inner bark of the paper-mulberry ; those of coarser texture
of the leaves of the pandanus, which are nicely scraped and bleached.
The mats are all made by hand, and by interlacing the fibres; one of
the finest description will require the industrious labour of a year.

Among the mats are some of as fine a texture and as soft as if made
of cotton. These are rarely or never manufactured at present, and are
solely possessed by the chiefs, in whose family they are handed down
from father to son, as heir-lcoms. They are considered as their

SAMOAN GROUP. 143

choicest treasures, and are so much coveted, that wars have been
made to obtain possession of them. For the latter reason they are
called Fala-taua.

There are several distinct trades among the men besides that of
tattooing ; among the most esteemed is that of canoe-building, in which
there is no little skill displayed.

The usual fishing-canoe is made of a single tree, with a small out-
rigger to balance it. They have no large double canoes, such as are
seen in Tonga and Feejee.

The largest canoes are from thirty to sixty feet long, and capable of
carrying from ten to twelve persons. They are formed of several
pieces of plank, fastened together with sennit. ‘These pieces are of no
regular size or shape. On the edge of each plank is a ledge or pro-
jection, which serves to attach the sennit, and to connect and
bind it closely to the adjoining one. It is surprising to see the
labour bestowed on uniting so many small pieces, where large
and good planks might be obtained. Before the pieces are
joined, the gum from the bark of the bread-fruit tree is used
to cement them close and prevent leakage. These canoes [
retain their form much more truly than one would have sup-
posed, and I saw few whose original model had been impaired
by service. On the outside, the pieces are so closely fitted as
frequently to require close examination before the seams can
be detected. This perfection of workmanship is astonishing to
those who see the tools with which it is executed. They are
now made of no more than a piece of iron tied to a stick, and used as
an adze. This, with a gimlet, is all they have, and before they obtained
these iron tools, they used adzes made of hard stone or fish-bones.

Kei

Hy Ny Hi

Wy
Ge

SAMOAN CANOE,

These canoes are built with a deck forward and aft. They are long
and narrow, and their shape is elegant. They are paddled by natives,

144 SAMOAN GROUP.

who sit two abreast, and are guided by a steersman. The seat of
honour is on the forward deck, in the centre of which is a row of pegs,
to which the large white ovula shell is attached by way of ornament.
The natives find no difficulty in occupying this place, as they manage
to sit in almost any position with ease to themselves; but a stranger
who attempts it, and is for any time confined to one of these places of
honour, will repent of the distinction he enjoys before many minutes are
over. One of our gentlemen was treated with this distinction, and will
long recollect the words of the song they sing.

“ Lelei tusilava le tau mua,
Leango tusilava le tau muri.”

‘Good above all is the part before,
Bad above all is the part behind.”

The uneasiness, from his account, does not only proceed from the
small place left to sit upon, but also from the constant apprehension of
being precipitated into the sea. ‘This faa Samoa, or Samoan fashion,
is any thing but agreeable.

Having both a prow and stern, these canoes cannot be manceuvred
without tacking; consequently the out-rigger, that constitutes their
safety, is, in using their sail, alternately to leeward and windward, and
does not, when to leeward, add much to the stability of the canoe.
They carry less sail than the canoes of the other natives of Polynesia,
and to guard against the danger of upsetting, the natives rig a sprit
or boom (suati), projecting from the opposite side to that on which the
out-rigger is fitted. ‘This boom is secured with guys to the top of the
mast. When the wind blows fresh, some of the men go out upon it,
and thus balance or counteract the force of the wind. Those on the
other side of the canoe are kept ready to go out on the out-rigger when
that becomes necessary. ‘The sail is made of a mat, of a triangular
shape, with its apex below: some of these are ten feet high.

None of the canoes we saw at the Samoan Group are calculated for
long voyages. Those used in their intercourse with the Tonga Islands,
are the large double Feejee canoe, of which I shall speak when I treat
of those islanders.

In their trips from town to town, they are generally on parties of
pleasure, termed malanga, and are frequently to be met with singing
their boat-songs.

These songs have but little variety, are destitute of melody, and
have small pretensions to harmony. ‘They consist, for the most part,
of two short strains, repeated alternately, the first by a single indi-
vidual, and the second by several. Their voices are loud, and have

SAMOAN GROUP. 145

generally a tenor character; the strains are mostly in the minor scale,
and sung in the key of two or three flats.
The following boat-songs will give an idea of them:

First NOCD = PR ete A AE ks ID Bl, li aaa i 2 Bs
betel ete — mare
Fo - af -e Fo - fa - e.

Second Voice.

Gia H—s- ecreee == =aee3= Hf

-@-
na - agi le : na ogi- le.
Another:
_ First Voice.
a — =e = pent eae Se oT
Tu. s- te fa: - ma‘ - 1 fou aue ae

Second Voice.

bes ee es

a —— @—@—s—e-

a s ee ee ee ee Se ee es ee ee

SSS

rar tai na 4-.lo

=e o_o ={—- ae ere ee
ee Snag! Gio
—)_____|+_gl@—@-@-6 ee —

Tute ta-mai Fs fou aue

ghee se = === Se tt

——-——— ee ee ee ee ee ee ————

Au ta-na- lo far oe.

“ Cook* tells you pull away,
I will do so, and so must you.”

The work in which the Samoans show their greatest ingenuity, is in
the construction of their native houses, and particularly of their fale-
teles or council-houses, some of which are of large dimensions. They
are built of the wood of the bread-fruit tree, and there are two modes
in use, their own, and that borrowed from the Friendly Islands. The
true Samoan house is slightly oval; those of the Friendly Islands are
oblong. They may be said to consist of three parts, the centre and
two ends; the former is erected first. For this purpose the three
centre posts, which are twenty-five or thirty feet high, are usually
first raised; on these rests the ridge-pole. A staging or scaffolding is
now erected, nearly in the form of the roof, which serves for ladders
and to support the roof temporarily. The roof is commenced at the

* All the natives have some knowledge of Captain Cook, derived from their communication
with the Friendly Islands.

VOL~ Ii. N 19

146 SAMOAN GROUP.

ridge-pole, and is worked downwards. The cross-beams are lashed in
at different heights, connecting the centre portions of the roof together,
and are fastened to the upright centre posts. The rafters are made of
short pieces, placed at equal distances apart, and form the curve that
is required to construct the roof. Between the largest rafters are
smaller ones, about one foot apart. Across the rafters are placed and
fastened many small rods, about an inch in diameter. The whole is
neatly thatched with the sugar-cane or pandanus-leaves, and the
rafters are terminated by a wall-piece, made of short pieces of wood,
fastened together and to the rafters, so as to form the ellipse required
for the roof. The end portions, of similar small pieces, are made to
correspond to the required curvature of the roof and the ellipse of the
wall-plate. Posts are now placed in the ground, about three feet
apart, to receive the wall-piece, which is fastened to their tops. There
is no fastening used but sennit, made of cocoa-nut fibres. The rafters
are generally made of the hibiscus, which is light and strong. The
eaves extend about a foot beyond the posts. The smaller houses
generally have permanent sides; the larger ones are open all around,
but mats are hung up as curtains by the occupants, and any part may
be used as a door.

. me Soom >
Lian)

At Sg a OE
0S! =F, ae I 7
We Ne ilies, NAAN pte ee eS B

\ — ea

SAMOAN FALE-TELE,

After the whole is finished, the interior has the appearance of an
extensive framework, from the number of cross-beams, which are used
as depositories for their property, tapas, mats, &c.; and in some cases
the favourite canoe of the chiefs is placed on them. After a full
inspection of one of these fabrics, one cannot but view these natives
not only as industrious, but as possessing great skill and ingenuity.
The thatching lasts four or five years. There is no floor to the house,
but the ground is covered with stones about the size of a small egg.
There-is usually a paved platform on the outside, about three feet wide.
In some cases this is raised a foot, and serves to keep the house dry,

SAMOAN GROUP. 147

as the stones allow a free passage to water. On the pavement are
laid coarse mats, and the finer ones are spread above, covering about
half the area.

These fine mats are rolled up until required. Many baskets hang
here and there, with some cocoa-nut shells to contain water, and the
ava-bowl. Mats are suspended about as screens. At night, each
sleeper is usually supplied with a musquito-curtain, called tai-namu,
which, forming a kind of tent, by being passed over a ridge-pole or
rope, and falling on the ground, answers all the purposes required.*

On one, and sometimes on both sides of the centre-post of the
houses, is a small circular hearth, enclosed by stones of larger size ;
this is the place for burning the dried leaves of the cocoa-nut, which
serve them for light at night. Although these do not give out much
smoke, yet as they burn for a long time, the house gradually becomes
filled with soot, for there is no outlet above for its escape.t

As they always use the flambeau to light them on their return
from their feasts, it produces a singular and pretty effect to see an
assembly breaking up, and the different parties winding through the
groves with torches, throwing the whole into bold relief. A rude
lamp is also used, made of a cocoa-nut shell, with a little oil in it, and
a piece Uf vino-stalk fur a wick, aud likewise the nut of the Aleurites
triloba, or candle-nut, several of which are strung on a thin stick.

Many white-washed houses are now to be seen, for the natives have
been taught the use of lime by the missionaries, and are beginning to
use it in their dwellings. All the missionaries’ houses have plastered
walls, and board floors, and are very comfortable. There is a great
quantity of fine timber on these islands, for building purposes. The
timber of the bread-fruit tree and hibiscus, are alone made use of by
the natives. ‘The missionaries have their planks or boards sawed by
hand, and generally by foreign carpenters.

The food of the Samoans is prepared in the way practised at Tahiti,
and generally consists of bread-fruit, bananas, taro, sweet-potatoes,
and yams. Fish is supplied in quantities from the reef, and they also
eat the large chestnut, vi-apple, and arrow-root, the fecula of which
they begin to manufacture in some quantities. Although it would
scarcely be supposed necessary, where every thing is so bountifully
supplied by nature, yet they make provision for times of scarcity and
for their voyages, of the bread-fruit, made when green into a kind of

* Musquitoes are exceedingly annoying to strangers, but I did not remark that the natives
were troubled with them, Their bodies being well oiled is a great preservation against the
bites of these insects.

+ The prevalence of sore eyes is said to be owing to the smoke of the lamps.

148 SAMOAN GROUP.

paste, and rolled in banana-leaves. This undergoes a partial fermen-
tation, and is called mahi. It is not unlike half-baked dough, and has
a sour unwholesome taste. They eat birds, &c., but a large wood-
maggot which is found on the trees, is looked upon as the most
delicious food they have.

They have much variety in their cooking, and some of their dishes
are exceedingly rich and agreeable to the taste. They practise several
modes of cooking the taro-tops; one, by tying them up with cocoa-nut
pulp and baking them, in which state they resemble spinach cooked
with cream, but are sweeter. Another dish is called faiai, made of the
scraped and strained cocoa-nut pulp boiled down to the consistency of
custard. It is eaten both hot and cold.

The habits of the Samoans are regular. They rise with the sun,
and immediately take a meal. ‘They then bathe and oil themselves,
and go to their occupations for the day. These consist in part of the
cultivation of taro and yams; building houses and canoes. Many
fish; others catch birds, for which purpose they use nets affixed to
long poles. They generally find enough to employ the mornings, in
getting their daily supply. After this is done, they lounge about, or
play at their various games, eat about one o’clock, and again at night,
reliriug to rest about nine o’cluck. The men do all the hard work,
even to cookery.

The women are held in much consideration among this people, are
treated with great attention, and not suffered to do any thing but what
rightfully belongs to them. They take care of the house, and of their
children, prepare the food for cooking, do all the in-door work, and
manufacture the mats and tapa.

They are cleanly in their habits, and bathe daily ; after which they
anoint themselves with oil and turmeric. This custom, I have no
doubt tends to preserve the health by preventing the excessive perspi-
ration which the heat of the climate naturally brings on. It is,
however, at times offensive, for the oil is apt to become rancid.

The Samoans are of a social disposition, more so, indeed, than the
other natives of the Polynesian islands, and they are fond of travelling.
The reasons they have for taking these journeys are various: thus,
when there is a scarcity of food in one part, or a failure of the crops,
they are in the habit of making a “ faatamilo,” or circuit, around a
portion of these islands, so that by the time they return, (which is at
the expiration of three months,) their own taro has grown and the
bread-fruit season come around. They are now in their turn prepared
to afford the same hospitality and accommodation to others. The old
people are usually left at the village to take care of it, whilst the

SAMOAN GROUP. 149

younger portions are gone on one of these malangas, or journeys.
During these expeditions, a sort of trade is frequently carried on. The
different portions of the inhabitants are each celebrated for a particular
staple. Some excel in making mats; others in building canoes; the
districts in which the seaports are, obtain a variety of articles from
ships, which are subsequently distributed over the whole group.

It may readily be supposed that there are many circumstances
which make this mode of communication inconvenient, particularly
when the travelling party is a large one, in which case it absolutely
breeds a famine in its progress.

I have before stated that every village has its “ fale-tele,” which is
the property of the chief. In this their “fonos” or councils are held,
and it is also the place where strangers are received. The mode of
receiving visiters is attended with much ceremony. A party enters
the village without inquiring where or how they are to be entertained,
and take up their quarters in the “ fale-tele.” In a short time the chief
and principal personages collect and visit the strangers, telling them in
a set speech the pleasure they enjoy at their arrival, and their delight
to entertain them. ‘This is mostly said in what they term “ tala-gota,”
the speech of the lips, and much complimentary language ensues.
The Samoan language abounds in phrases adapted to this use, and
worthy of a refined people.

After this interchange of compliments, the young women assemble
to treat the strangers to “ava.” This is prepared after the usual
mode, by chewing the Piper mythisticum. During this time the
young men are employed collecting and cooking food. This is all
done with great despatch. The pigs are killed; the taro collected;
the oven heated; and baskets made to hold the viands. In the feast
they are well assured of sharing, and therefore have a strong stimulus
to exertion.

The strangers, on receiving the food, always return part of it to the
entertainers. Thus all the village is occupied with the entertainment,
and a scene of frolicking ensues until the strangers see fit to take their
departure.

Among the heathen, dancing during the evening always follows this
feast; but the Christian villages have abolished all dancing.

These visits are not always paid or received in a spirit of hospitality.
The chief of a powerful district takes this mode to exact tribute from
his less powerful neighbours, and they are on such occasions extremely
overbearing and insolent to their entertainers.

For crimes, they have many forms of punishment, among which

are: expulsion from the village in which the offender resides; expo-
N2

150 SAMOAN GROUP.

sure of the naked body to the sun; flogging; cutting off the ears and
nose; confiscation of property; and the compulsory eating of noxious
herbs.

When a murder has been committed, the friends of the person slain
unite to avenge his death; and the punishment does not fall upon the
guilty party alone, but on his friends and relatives, who with their
property are made the subjects of retaliation. If any delay in seeking
redress in this manner occurs, it is received as an intimation that the
injured party, whether the family, the friends, the village, or whole
district to which the murdered person belonged, are willing to accept
an equivalent for the wrong they have sustained. The friends of the
murderer then collect what they hope may be sufficient to avert retri-
bution, and a negotiation is entered into to fix the amount of com-
pensation. When this is agreed upon, it is offered to the nearest
relative of the deceased, and the parties who present it perform at the
same time an act of submission, by prostrating themselves before him.
This closes the affair.

For some crimes nothing but the death of the offender could atone.
Among these was adultery; and when the wives of chiefs eloped with
men of another district, it generally produced a war. This was one
of the causes of the wars waged by Malietoa.

There existed, however, means by which the code was rendered
less bloody, in places of refuge for offenders, such as the tombs of
chiefs, which were held sacred and inviolate.

Wars were frequent among the Samoans before the introduction of
the gospel, and scarcely a month passed without quarrels being
avenged, and with blows. The last and perhaps the most bloody war
that has ever occurred on these islands, was about the time of the first
visit of Mr. Williams, the missionary, in 1830, when the inhabitants
of one of the finest districts, that of Aana, in the western part of
Upolu, were almost exterminated. This war continued for eight
months, and only those were saved who escaped to the olos, or inac-
cessible places of refuge, or were protected by the “ Malo,” the ruling
or conquering party.

When the missionaries arrived, in 1836, and for upwards of a
year afterwards, Aana was without a single inhabitant; but through
their influence upon the Malo party, it was agreed at a large
“fono” to restore the exiles to their lands. Aana is again (in 1839)
the finest part of the island, and will be in a few years quite a
garden.

These wars, like those of all savage people, were attended with great
cruelty, and neither old nor young of either sex were spared. It is

SAMOAN GROUP. 151

related that after the last battle of Aana, a fire was kept burning for
several days, into which hundreds of women and children were cast.

Their wars were seldom carried on in open fight, but stratagem
was resorted to, and all enemies that could be attacked were killed,
whether in their houses, or when accidentally met with at their work
in the taro-patches.

Their arms consisted of clubs and spears, made of the iron-wood
(Casuarina), bows and arrows, and of late years, the musket. The
man who could ward off a blow and at the same time inflict a wound
on his adversary, was considered the best warrior. Hach village had
its separate commander, and there was no general, their operations
being from time to time decided in council. Their spears were
pointed with the sting of the ray-fish, which, on breaking off in the
body, caused certain death.

The olos, above mentioned, were usually on the top of some high
rock, or almost inaccessible mountain, where a small force could
protect itself from a larger one. One of these olos, or strongholds, of
the people of Aana, during the late war, was on a high perpendicular
ridge, which forms the western boundary of the bay of Faleletai, and
it was the scene of many a bloody contest. ‘The Manono people,
coming by night, would land at the foot of the hill, and attempt its
ascent, while those on the top would roll and hurl down stones,
generally overcoming them with ease, and driving the invaders back
with great slaughter. The latter, however, took a fearful and truly
savage revenge for their various defeats. Laying in wait until the
women came down to fish on the reefs, they set upon them, and
massacred them all. The burning of houses, the destruction of the
bread-fruit, cocoa-nut trees, taro-patches, and yam-grounds, &c., were
the ordinary features of these conflicts.

Prisoners were sometimes spared, but they were usually held as
subjects of retaliation, in case of any of the adverse party being
killed.

Upon the occurrence of a cause of war, the parties sent to their
respective friends in the different towns to solicit their aid. Such
solicitations usually resulted in the whole district, and sometimes the
whole of the island, being engaged in a civil war.

On going to war, they were accustomed to cast their hair loose, or
to tie it up in various forms, and, to add to the fierceness of their
appearance, they wore large bunches of false hair, which also in
creased their apparent height.

In making peace, the conquered party was required to make submis-

152 SAMOAN GROUP.

sion, by bringing loads of stones, fire-wood, and green boughs, and to
bow down very abjectly in the presence of the chief. They were
also required to pay a large amount of tapa, mats, and other property.

The government of the Samoans is more refined in principle than
could well be expected. The rule of hereditary chiefs is acknow-
ledged, and the distinction of the several classes well defined. Great
respect is paid to the chiefs, and particularly to the “'Tupu,” or highest
class. To this belong Malietoa, Pea of Manono, &c. The second
class consists of the near relatives of the first, and of others who have
large possessions; the third, of the petty chiefs of villages; next
come the tulafales, who are a well-defined class between the chiefs
(alii) and common people. These tulafales are proprietors of the soil,
and householders; they possess considerable influence, and act as
advisers of the chiefs, and the executors of their orders. Like the
chiefs, they derive their rank from descent. There is no distinct
name for the common people as a class, but the chiefs in speaking of
them always apply some opprobrious epithet. The son of a low-born
woman by a chief ranks as a chief, although he has no authority, and
the son of a noble woman by a man of mean birth, may be either a
chief or a commoner.

The lands are allotted and distinguished by known boundaries.
The natural heir of the former owner succeeds, and is the feudal
chief or leader in war, but all his dependants are free to cultivate it.
Lands may be sold, which is done at public meetings, and the bargain
is made binding by sticking their staves into the ground, or digging a
portion of it up.

The whole power lies in the high chiefs of the “ Malo” or con-
quering party. They assemble in fono, and determine the general
laws and rules of action. At the head of this is Malietoa, who is now
considered the head chief of Atua, and is supposed will shortly
acquire that of Tui of Aana. Each of these districts formerly had a
separate chief, bearing the same title of Tui, but in their wars with
Manono, nearly all the descendants of these princes were killed off.
To obtain this title requires the consent of the chiefs of Manono, and
part of Savaii, which belongs to the ruling party.

The fono may levy what contributions it pleases, particularly on
those they have conquered. The present “ Malo” or government is
designated “ Malo-to-toa”—the gentle government.

Although there is no supreme authority acknowledged in any one
individual, yet there are instances of chiefs of districts assuming and
maintaining it. The late Tamafago, of whom some account has already

SAMOAN GROUP. 153

been given, was one of these. He assumed the attributes not only of
a king, but of a god, and after conquering a rival district on Savaii, he
took, as has been stated, the name, “O le Tupu 0 Savaii”—the King
of Savaii. After he was killed, Malietoa succeeded to the same title;
but it now confers no power, and is considered merely as compli-
mentary.

Each district and town has its own government. An elderly chief
generally presides, or is considered as the head of the village, town, or
district. In these primary fonos or meetings, the affairs are generally
discussed by the alii (chiefs) and tulafales (landholders), and what they
determine on is usually followed. The great fono, or general assembly,
is seldom called, except on matters affecting the whole of the island or
district. The subject is calmly debated, and most thoroughly discussed ;
the final decision, however, is not by vote, but is adopted after consul-
tation, and is governed by the opinions of the most influential chiefs. It
thus appears that these assemblies have little influence upon the course
the chiefs may have determined to pursue, and serve chiefly to insure
the united action of the district in carrying the designs of the chiefs
into effect. The tulu-fano or decree, promulgated by the council, is to
be obeyed, and those who fail are punished by the Malo, being plun-
dered by them of their lands, &c.

In the descent of the office of chief, the rule of primogeniture is not
strictly followed, but the authority and title always remain in the same
family.

It is the custom at the fonos to compliment the head chiefs, and
invoke blessings on them in prayers, that their lives may be prolonged
’ and prosperous. I was informed that these assemblies were conducted
with much ceremony, but I was much disappointed in the one I
witnessed. The forms of proceeding may, however, be different when
strangers are not present. The fonos generally begin at an early hour
in the morning, and last until late in the afternoon. One of the most
pleasing of the ceremonies is that in which the chiefs are supplied with
food during the time the meeting is in session. After the food is pre-
pared and dished in fresh banana-leaves, the wives and daughters of
the chiefs attire themselves in their best dresses. They then enter the
fale-tele, and approach their fathers, husbands, and brothers, &c., before
whom they stop, awaiting their instructions as to whom they shall hand
the viands. When they have obeyed their directions, they retire. The
whole duty is conducted with the utmost decorum, and while it is going
on, no conversation is permitted except in a low voice. I learned from

the missionaries who had attended some of their meetings, that the
VOL. II. 20

154 SAMOAN GROUP.

manner of speaking was good, and the self-possession of the orators
remarkable. The speakers generally have persons near them who act
as a sort of prompters, and remind them of the subjects it is desirable
they should speak of. The whole proceedings are conducted with the
utmost quiet, and no disturbance is allowed.

SAMOAN PET PIGEON.

Gta? EER VL

CONTENTS.

DEPARTURE FROM THE SAMOAN GROUP—WALLIS ISLAND—DISPOSITION MADE OF
TUVAI—CATHOLIC MISSIONARIES AT WALLIS ISLAND—HOORN ISLAND—MATTHEWS'
ROCK—REMARKABLE THUNDER-STORM—BALL’S PYRAMID—PORT JACKSON ENTERED—
ARRIVAL AT SYDNEY—VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR—FORT MACQUARIE—FATE OF MR.
WILLIAMS—DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN OF SYDNEY—ITS STREETS—ITS RESEM-
BLANCE TO AMERICAN TOWNS—RELIGIOUS SECTS—PREVALENCE OF INTOXICATION—
GOVERNMENT-HOUSE—DRIVE TO SOUTH HEAD—PUBLIC GROUNDS—MR. CUNNINGHAM
THE BOTANIST—HIS MELANCHOLY FATE—COUNTRY AROUND SYDNEY—THE NATURAL-
ISTS LEFT IN NEW SOUTH WALES—GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THAT COLONY—ITS
FORESTS—ITS GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE—COUNTRY SOUTHWEST OF SYDNEY—LIVER-
POOL MOUNTAINS—COUNTRY NORTH OF THE LIVERPOOL MOUNTAINS—ILLAWARRA
—DROUGHTS AND FLOODS—REMARKS OF MAJOR MITCHELL—RIVERS OF NEW SOUTH
WALES—ITS MINERAL PRODUCTS—ITS WATER—THE HEIGHT OF ITS MOUNTAINS—ITS
CLIMATE—ITS TEMPERATURE—PREVAILING WINDS—ITS VEGETATION — MONOTONY
OF ITS SCENERY—ITS HORTICULTURE—NATIVES OF AUSTRALIA—THEIR NUMBERS—
THEIR PHYSICAL TRAITS—THEIR CHARACTER—THEIR WANDERING HABITS—THEIR
TIMIDITY —THEIR CONFLICTS— THEIR CORROBORY DANCES— ACCOUNT OF ONE OF
THEIR BATTLES—THEIR MODE OF SETTLING PRIVATE QUARRELS—THEIR WEAPONS—
THEIR MODE OF CLIMBING—THEIR CANOES—THEIR SOCIAL SYSTEM—THEIR CUSTOM

OF MAKING YOUNG MEN—THEIR MARRIAGES— BURIAL OF THEIR DEAD — THEIR
RELIGIOUS OPINIONS.

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CHAPTER VI.
NEW SOUTH WALES.
1839,

On the 10th of November we weighed anchor from Apia, and made
all sail to the westward; and on the 11th had lost sight of Savan.
Officers were stationed for the three following nights to look out for
the periodic showers of meteors, but the nights were cloudy, and none
were seen.

On the 12th we made Uea or Wallis Island, and at 3 p.m. were
off its southern end, which is situated in latitude 13° 24’ S., longitude
176° 09’ 22". W. Instead of a single island as might be expected from
the name, there are nine separate islands, varying in circuit from one
to ten miles, and enclosed with one extensive reef. The land is, in
general, high. We made a running survey of this group.

While off Wallis Island, we were boarded by a canoe, in which
was a native who spoke a little English. I had thus the means of com-
municating with the shore, and resolved to take advantage of it by
landing the prisoner Tuvai. I conceived that this would accomplish
ail the ends I had in view in removing him from his native island,
particularly as the course of the wind is such, for the greater part of
the year, as to prevent canoes proceeding from Wallis Island to the
Samoan Group, and there is in consequence no communication between
them. His fate would of course remain a mystery to his countrymen,
and the impression I had hoped to produce on their minds would be
effectually made. My original intention had been to land him at
Hoorn Island, which is two days’ sail further to the south; but a similar
opportunity might not perhaps have presented itself there.

Having decided on this course, I committed him to the charge
of the person who had boarded us, and gave particular directions that

o (157)

158 NEW SOUTH WALES.

he, with his rolls of tapa, should be immediately taken and presented
to the chief. The customs of the islanders promised that this would
insure him good treatment, by giving him at once a protector; or at
least that he would be only robbed by a single person, and not exposed
to the pillage of the whole population, who would in all probability
have stripped him of his property the instant he landed, if not restrained
by the authority of a chief.

Tuvai seemed delighted at being released from his confinement on
shipboard, and took his leave by shaking hands with the sentry. Thus,
while the culprit has not been exposed to any unnecessary severity of
punishment, I feel satisfied that I fully accomplished my object of
convincing his countrymen that they could not hope to commit murders
upon their white visiters with impunity.

These islands appear to be well wooded, and we saw many large
native houses upon them. As we drew near, we perceived upon a
rocky flat a few natives waving a white flag. The native who came
on board informed me that the inhabitants were numerous, and that
among them there were ten white men.

It is said that the Catholic missionaries who were expelled from
Tahiti were landed on this island, when, the moment they reached the
shore, they were stripped of all they possessed. ‘They, notwithstanding,
commenced their good work, and are reported to have performed it
effectually.*

The entrance to the lagoon is on the south side of the group, and
the pilot, if so he may be called, informed me that there was ample
room for the ship to pass within the reef. Wood, water, and refresh-
ments may be obtained here.

Towards evening we stood on our course with a strong breeze,
regretting that time did not permit of landing and obtaining a more
full account of this little-known land. But the season for operating in
high southern latitudes was rapidly approaching, and I was aware that,
to say nothing of the extent of sea that was to be traversed, I must
spend a considerable time at Sydney in making the necessary pre-
parations for a long and arduous cruise.

Hoorn Island was. made the following day. It was discovered in
1616 by Schouten and Le Maire. Its highest point is two thousand
five hundred feet above the sea; on its northern side many rocks are
visible, and the whole surface appears bold and precipitous, affording,
as far as we could perceive, little soil for cultivation. Cocoa-palms in

* While in the Feejee Group, I learned that a Catholic mission had already been esta-
‘plished there; that it was prospering, and that it had already been the means of saving an
‘English vessel from capture, by a timely notice to the crew.

NEW SOUTH WALES. 159

considerable numbers, were, however, observed upon a low point
projecting from its southern side.

This island is inhabited, and J have been informed that an unsuc-
cessful attempt to establish a mission upon it was made by the Catho-
lics in 1840. |

Taking our departure from Hoorn Island, we made all sail to the
southward, passing about sixty miles to the westward of the Feejee
Group, which was to be afterwards a subject of close examination.
On crossing the meridian of 180° we dropped the 14th of November,
in order to make our time correspond to that of the Eastern Hemi-
sphere, to which our operations were for some months to be confined.

On the 18th, we saw Matthews’ Rock, whose height we ascertained
to be one thousand one hundred and eighty-six feet. It is of a conical
shape, about a mile in circumference, and principally composed of
conglomerate. A dike of basalt was observed occupying about a
third of the width of the island. In order to obtain specimens, a boat
was despatched to endeavour to effect a landing: the undertaking
proved difficult, but was accomplished by Dr. Fox and Midshipman
Henry, who swam through the surf. They brought off some speci-
mens of porphyritic rock, and a few small crystals of selenite.
Patches were seen on the northern side of the island appearing as if
covered with sulphur. As has been so often mentioned in speaking
of other uninhabited islands, great numbers of birds were seen
upon and around it. This island is in latitude 22° 27'S., longitude
£f2- 10' 33" Ks.

For several days preceding the 18th, a current had been perceived
setting southwest; it was tried here, and found to set in that direction
at the rate of three fathoms per hour. The wind began here to haul
to the northward and eastward.

We had the misfortune on this day to lose one of our Six’s ther-
mometers, after having made a cast of two hundred fathoms with it.
The difference between the temperature at the surface and at that
depth, was 14°, the former being 76°. The following day (19th), a
cast of six hundred fathoms was made by the Peacock. The tem
perature below was 50°, while that at the surface was 738°.

On the 24th, we had a remarkably severe storm of thunder and
lightning; the ship appeared filled with the electric fluids; the points
of the conductors, the mastheads, and yardarms were illuminated with
Corpo Santos; and several of the officers declared that they had felt
electric shocks. The gale blew violently, beginning from the north-
west, and then shifting to the southwest. During its continuance the
thermometer fell seventeen degrees.

160 NEW SOUTH WALES.

For the two following days we had head winds, and a heavy cross
sea.

On the 26th November, we made Ball’s Pyramid, which appears to
be a barren rock rising abruptly from the sea.

On the 24th, 25th, 26th, and 27th, we experienced a current setting
at the rate of twenty-four miles a day to the northeast. On the 28th
it set east-northeast at the rate of twenty-five miles per day. From
the latter date the current began to set strongly to the southwest,
showing that we had entered the stream which sets in that direction
along the coast of New South Wales.

At sunset on the 29th November, we made the light-house on the
headland of Port Jackson. We had a fair wind for entering the
harbour, and although the night was dark, and we had no pilot, yet
as it was important to avoid any loss of time, [ determined to run in.
I adopted this resolution, because, although we were all unacquainted
with the channel, I was assured that the charts in our possession
might be depended upon, and I stood on under a press of sail, accom-
panied by the Peacock. At 8 p.m. we found ourselves at the entrance
of the harbour. Here a light erected on a shoal called the Sow and
Pigs, since the publication of the charts, caused a momentary hesita-
tion, but it was not long before it was determined where it was placed,
and with this new aid, I decided to run up and anchor off the Cove.
In this I succeeded, and the Peacock, directed by signal, followed the
Vincennes. At half-past 10 p.m. we quietly dropped anchor off the
Cove, in the midst of the shipping, without any one having the least
idea of our arrival.

When the good people of Sydney looked abroad in the morning,
they were much astonished to see two men-of-war lying among thei
shipping, which had entered their harbour in spite of the difficulties
of the channel, without being reported, and unknown to the pilots.
Their streets were speedily alive with our officers and men, who were
delighted at finding themselves once more in a civilized country, and
one where their own language was spoken.

The Porpoise and Flying-Fish arrived the next day.

The morning of the 30th was beautiful, and the scene that broke
upon us was totally unlike any we had hitherto witnessed during our
voyage. In particular, the strong resemblance of all that we saw to
our own homes, and the identity of language, gave us indescribable
feelings of pleasure.

Our consul, J. W. Williams, Esq., came early on board to welcome
us. He communicated the information that the Relief had arrived
safely, and landed all our stores, which were ready for us and close

NEW SOUTH WALES. 161

at hand; after which, and about ten days before our arrival, she had
sailed for the United States.

Our arrival was duly announced by an officer, and through him |]
was informed that the governor, Sir George Gipps, would be happy
to receive me at eleven o’clock. In compliance with this intimation,
I had the honour of waiting upon his Excellency at that hour, in
company with Captain Hudson, and our consul. I made my apolo-
gies for having entered the harbour in so unceremonious a manner,
and stated the reasons why I could not tender the customary salutes.

The reception I met with was truly kind: every assistance which
lay in his power was cordially offered; and I was assured that I had
only to make my wants known to have them supplied. The use of
Fort Macquarie was immediately granted me for an observatory, a
position which, being within hail of my ship, gave me great facilities
for conducting my experiments, and at the same time superintending
my other duties. | |

Fort Macquarie is situated on Bennilong’s Point, which forms the
eastern side of Sydney Cove; it covers about half an acre of ground,
and is twenty feet above high-water mark; it has a few guns mounted,
but they are in no condition for service.*

A few days before our arrival, it had been debated in council,
whether more effectual means of fortification were not necessary for
the harbour. The idea of this being wanted was ridiculed by the ma-
jority ; but the entrance of our ships by night seems to have changed
this opinion. Had war existed, we might, after firing the shipping,
and reducing a great part of the town to ashes, have effected a retreat
before daybreak, in perfect safety.t

I may in this place acknowledge the open- heute’ welcome we met
with from all the government officers, military and civil, as well as
from the citizens. Our reception was gratifying in the extreme, and
cannot be too highly appreciated. ‘The Australian Club was thrown
open to us by its committee, and parties, balls, &c., were given in
our honour; in short, all our’ leisure time was fully occupied in the
receipt of these hospitable attentions.

The day after we anchored at Sydney, the brig Camden also
arrived. By her we learned the melancholy intelligence of the death
of the Rev. Mr. Williams, from whom we had parted so short a time
before at the Samoan Group. He was then, as will be recollected,

* T understand that since our visit to Sydney, Fort Macquarie has been demolished.

+ Since our visit, however, several new fortifications have been erected.

¢ At the Australian Club, I had the pleasure of seeing Count Strezleski, well known in
the United States, who was travelling in New South Wales.

VOL. II. O02 BA

162 NEW SOUTH WALES,

about setting forth to propagate the gospel among the savages of the
New Hebrides, and was in full health and high spirits, in the ardent
hope of success in his mission. My information in respect to this sad
event, was derived from his associate, Mr. Cunningham. They had
placed native missionaries at Rotuma and Totoona. Mr. Williams
then landed at Tanna, which they found in a high state of cultivation,
and where they were hospitably received by the natives. ‘These were
Papuans, and spoke a language much like that of the Hervey Islanders.
At Tanna, Samoan missionaries were also left, and they thence pro-
ceeded to Erromango. Here they found a barren country and a
different race of men, black, with woolly hair, who did not comprehend
a word of any of the languages known to the missionaries.

The natives, although apparently suspicious, exhibited no symptoms
of actual hostility. Mr. Williams, with Mr. Harris, Mr. Cunningham,
and the master of the vessel, landed, and were strolling about, amusing
themselves with picking up shells. While thus engaged, they had
separated from each other, and Messrs. Harris and Williams were in
advance of the others. On a sudden the war-shout was heard, and
Mr. Harris was seen running, pursued by a crowd of natives. He
was soon overtaken by them, and killed. Mr. Williams then turned
and endeavoured to reach the boat, but he had delayed too long, and
although he reached the water, he was followed into it and slain also.

Mr. Cunningham and the captain escaped, although with difficulty,
and after some fruitless attempts to recover the body, left the island.
Mr. Cunningham was of opinion that the attack had not been pre-
meditated, but arose from a sudden desire to obtain possession of the
clothes of the persons who were on shore; he was also satisfied that
a single loaded musket in the hands of those left in the boat, would
have been the means of saving these two valuable lives.

I had, in a conversation with Mr. Williams at Upolu, expressed my
belief that the savage inhabitants of the New Hebrides would not be
safely visited without the means of defence. He had in reply declared
himself averse to the use of fire-arms or any other weapon in the pro-
pagation of the gospel; being of opinion that it would be more easily
and effectually disseminated without them.

The missionary cause has sustained a great loss in Mr. Williams’s
death; for in him were united a true spirit of enterprise and fervent
zeal, with great perseverance and a thorough knowledge of the native
character. I still think with melancholy pleasure of the acquaintance
I had the good fortune to form with him.

The town of Sydney may, for convenience of description, be con-
sidered as divided into two parts ; the line that separates them coincides

NEW SOUTH WALES. 163

nearly with that of George Street, the Broadway of Sydney. The old
town lies on the east side of this lme, and occupies the eastern promon-
tory of the Cove; it is the least reputable part, and is almost filled
with grog-shops and brothels, except at its extreme eastern quarter,
where there are a few genteel buildings, in agreeable situations. The
streets to the south and west of George Street are well laid out, and are
rapidly filling up with good houses.

George Street extends in a direction nearly north and south for two
or three miles, as far as Brickfield Hill, which is also nearly covered
with buildings. On George Street are many of the public buildings,
among which are the barracks, the markets, the post-office, and the
banks. The remaining buildings which front upon it are chiefly occu-
pied as shops, in which almost every description of European manu-
factures may be procured, and some of them at moderate prices.
Several streets run parallel, and others at right angles to George Street.

The houses of Sydney are for the most part well built and commo-
dious. On the western side of the town are many handsome buildings
and extensive public grounds; towards the eastern side is a large
square, called Hyde Park, upon which are situated the ofhices of the
colonial government, the church of St. James, and the Catholic
cathedral.

Sydney contains about twenty-four thousand inhabitants, which is
about one-fifth part of the whole population (120,000) of the colony;
and about one-fourth of this number are convicts. In truth, the fact
that it is a convict settlement may be at once inferred from the number
of police-officers and soldiers that are every where seen, and is rendered
certain by the appearance of the “ chain-gangs.” ‘The latter reminded
us, except in the colour of those who composed them, of the coflee-
carrying slaves at Rio; but the want of the cheerful song, and. the
apparent merriment which the Brazilian slaves exhibit in the execution
of their tasks, was apparent.

When viewed from the water, Sydney appears to great advantage.
It lies on the south side of the harbour, and covers two narrow
promontories, separated and bounded by coves. The ground rises
gradually, and thus exhibits its buildings to great advantage, giving it
the air of a large commercial city. It is chiefly built of a drab-
coloured sandstone, resembling that employed in the new public build-
ings at Washington, but of a lighter hue. Red brick is also used in
building, and the suburbs contain many neat cottages and country-
seats. The sandstone is a beautiful material, but is not very durable.
The view of the town is diversified with the peculiar foliage of Austra-
lian trees, among which the pines of Norfolk Island and Moreton Bay

164 NEW SOUTH WALES.

are most conspicuous. At the time of our arrival, the trees were in-
fested with locusts (Cicada), which made a noise absolutely deafening.
The sound this insect produces is the same as that made by the analo-
gous species in the United States, but is continued here during the heat
of the day, and ten times more deafening.

Handsome equipages abound; and the stage-coaches are numerous.
These, with the costume and demeanour of the more respectable part
of the population, struck us as being more like what is seen in our towns
than in those of Europe. Every thing has a new look about it, and the
people manifest more of the bustle and activity of our money-making
and enterprising population than are to be seen in old countries. The
acquisition of wealth seems to be the only object of all exertion here,
and speculation was as rife as we had left it in the United States.
Cutting down hills, fillmg up valleys, laying out and selling lots, were
actively going on. There are in truth many particulars in which the
people of Sydney resemble those of America. This is observable,
among other things, in the influence of the public press. In Australia,
however, it is more licentious than any except the lowest of our news-
papers; taking unwarrantable liberties with private character, and is
far from being remarkable for discrimination.

All the religious sects of the British Islands have their representa-
tives here. Each has its ardent advocates, who appear to be in con-
tinual war with those of the others. ‘The contest between them had
risen to a great height at the time of our visit, which is probably to be
ascribed to the agitation of a question in relation to the distribution of
the school-fund.

In one particular, a most striking difference is to be observed
between the scenes to be witnessed at Sydney, and in the cities of
the United States. This consists in the open practice of the vice of
drunkenness, which here stalks abroad at noonday. It is not rare at
any time, but on holidays its prevalence surpasses any thing I have
ever witnessed. Even persons of the fair sex (if they may be so
called) were there to be seen staggering along the most public streets,
brawling in the houses, or borne off in charge of the police. However
highly coloured this picture may be thought, it is fully corroborated
by the police reports of the Sydney papers on Monday mornings.
The police-ofticers themselves are among the venders of the intoxi-
cating liquid.

The facilities for indulgence in this vice are to be seen every where
in the form of low taverns and grog-shops, which attract attention by
their gaudy signs, adapted to the taste of the different orders of custo
mers, as “the King’s Arms,” the “ Punch-Bowl.” the “Shamrock,”

NEW SOUTH WALES. 165

the “ Thistle,” the “Ship,” the “Jolly Sailors.’ Of these, two
hundred and fifty are licensed by the government, or more than one
to each hundred souls. Among them a small shop was pointed out,
which from the extent of its custom, yielded the enormous amount of
£200 for rent to its owner annually, a sum far beyond the apparent
value of the whole property. The quantity of rum which is consumed
in the colony may be estimated from the facts, that the revenue derived
from its importation was in 1838 £189,450, and that the supply
amounts nearly to eight gallons annually for every individual in the
colony.

This state of things arose, of course, originally from the habits of
the abandoned persons who formed the nucleus of the population. It
might, therefore, have appeared to be the duty of the successive gover-
nors to restrain the vice, or even to render its commission impossible,
by prohibiting importation. So far as penalty goes, this has been
attempted, and a fine of five shillings is levied on all who are con-
victed of drunkenness before a magistrate; but, on the other hand,
rum was actually at one time the only circulating medium, and in it
the prices of land, labour, and food were estimated, and for it they ~
were freely exchanged. Even for the charitable purpose of erecting
a public hospital, Governor Macquarie granted to four individuals,
who defrayed the whole expense, the monopoly of the right of pur-
chasing all the spirits imported into the colony, and of landing them
free of duty, for severa] years, with the additional consideration of a
quantity of rum from the king’s stores.*

The old Government-House, where I had the honour of seeing Sir
George Gipps, is a low, cottage-shaped building, which has no preten-
sions to beauty, and appears to have been built at different times,
having been enlarged as often as additional accommodation was
needed. During the summer months the Governor resides at the
Government-House at Paramatta.

A new palace or government-house is at present building, in the
public grounds which lie to the eastward of the old one, from which
a road extends through them towards the South Head of Port Jackson.
This road is the usual promenade and drive of the citizens of Sydney.
After leaving the government domain, it enters Wooloomoloo, a re-
gion covered with the country-seats and cottages of the higher classes,
which although originally little more than a barren rock, has been

* It is related, that a highly respectable individual transmitted complaints against Go-
vernor Macquarie to the home government; and that, by way of answering these expostu-
lations, the reply of the Governor was: “There are but two classes of persons in New
South Wales, those who have been convicted, and those who ought to be.”

166 NEW SOUTH WALES.

brought into a high state of cultivation by its occupants. The drive
in this direction may challenge comparison for beauty with any part
of the world. It presents innumerable and picturesque views of the
noble bay, and of the promontories that jut into it, occupied by man-
sions and ornamental grounds. On reaching the South Head, a view
of great beauty is also seen. The point thus named, is a bold head-
land, about two hundred and fifty-four feet in height, on which stands
the light-house, a fine tower, with a brilliant revolving light.

The public grounds are in part occupied by a Botanical Garden,
which was laid out by Mr. Cunningham, the botanist of the colony,
to whose memory a monument is about to be erected in the garden,
which is itself a memorial of his fine taste, and his successful cultiva-
tion of the science he professed. Mr. Cunningham perished by a
melancholy death, which is still spoken of with regret. He had, in
his capacity of botanist, accompanied Major Mitchell, the Surveyor-
General of the colony, on a tour of exploration in 1835. In the
pursuit of his researches, he wandered from the party, and did not
_ return. As soon as he was missed, the native guides were sent in
search of him, but returned without having succeeded in finding his
traces. Major Mitchell then instituted a fresh search, in which the
tracks of Mr. Cunningham’s horse were found, and followed for ninety
miles. Within this space three places were seen where he had stopped
and encamped. From the last of these, the tracks of the horse were
again followed, until the carcass of the animal was found dead through
fatigue and starvation, with the whip tied to the bridle, and all his
accoutrements about him. Retracing their steps to his last encamp-
ment, they ascertained, on close examination, that he had there killed
his dog for food, and his footsteps were seen as if making rapid strides
for the bed of a river, which he had followed to a pool, into which he
had plunged. Farther down the river. some shells were found near the
remains of a fire, which had evidently been kindled by a white man.
Here all further traces of him were lost, and the search abandoned in
despair.

Some months afterwards, a second search was made by Lieutenant
Vouch. In the course of this, some natives were taken near the
Brogan river, in whose possession a part of Mr. Cunningham’s
clothing was found. They stated that a white man had come to them
in a state of great exhaustion; that he was hungry, and they fed him,
but that during the night they had become afraid, and killed him.
The body was never found.

Lieutenant Vouch inferred that Mr. Cunningham had become de-
ranged by the severity of his sufferings, and that this had caused him

NEW SOUTH WALES. 167

to wander about at night, which, with other suspicious movements,
had alarmed the natives, who, under the influence of their terrors, had
murdered him.

Thus ended the useful life of one who had raised himself to eminence
by his own exertions, and had, by his virtues and scientific acquire-
ments, gained the esteem of all the pure and good of the colony, by
whom he will be long affectionately and honourably remembered.

These grounds have many pleasant shady walks, and afford an
agreeable promenade for the inhabitants of Sydney; and one of them
encircles the whole, with occasionally a rural seat and arbour.*

The aspect of the country around Sydney is sufficient to prove that
New South Wales is very different, in its general features, from other
parts of the globe. This is chiefly owing to two causes: the aridity
of its climate, and the prevalence of sandstone rock. This rock may
be readily examined at the Heads of Port Jackson, and on the shores
of the many coves that surround this beautiful harbour. Its colour is
pale yellow or drab, and it lies in beds nearly horizontal and of various
thickness, whose upper surface, except where broken by ravines and
water-courses, forms a table-land. The average elevation in the neigh-
bourhood of Sydney is from three hundred and fifty to four hundred
feet. At this level it extends in gentle undulations to a great distance
inland.

This arid soil yields but a scanty growth of vegetable products,
which, consisting of burnt pasture, and thinly-scattered trees and
shrubbery, give to the whole region a look of desolation. The grass
does not every where conceal the bare rock, and the thin soil supports
only a few guin trees (Eucalypti), and bushes. Throughout the wide
plain there is little to relieve the eye, except here and there a small
cultivated spot.

As I did not consider it necessary that any of the naturalists should
accompany the squadron on its southern cruise, they were left at
Sydney, with orders to visit such parts of the country as might appear
to offer the best opportunities for making collections in their respective
departments.t This enabled me to obtain much information in rela-

* At the end of the walk around the government domain, the following inscription is
calculated to excite a smile: “Be it recorded, that this road round the inside of the govern-
ment domain, called Mrs. Macquarie’s Road, so called by the Governor on account of her
having originally planned it, three miles and three hundred and seventy-seven yards in
length, was finally completed on the 13th day of June, 1816.”

Governor Macquarie has literally put his mark on the town of Sydney, where hardly a
single street, square, or public building can be passed, without seeing his name cut in stone.

+ For orders, propositions of officers, and letters respecting their employment, see
Appendix XI.

168 NEW SOUTH WALES.

tion to the interior of this interesting country, its productions, and its
original inhabitants. The narratives of several of these journeys will
be given hereafter, but so much of what they learned as is general,
together with such additional information as was gained from other
sources, will form an appropriate introduction to the account of their
tours.

The interior of the country, for a distance of sixty or eighty miles
to the north and south of Sydney, presents the same characters which
have just been described, except that deep gorges are from time to
time met with, and that some parts of it are of a more undulating
character. |

On proceeding inwards from the coast, the country at a distance
seems to be traversed by ridges, but on approaching their apparent
position, they melt away into rounded elevations, of very gradual
inclination. Still farther to the westward, the undulating region is
bounded by inaccessible declivities and lofty mural precipices. These
are the edges of the Blue Mountains, which are seen from Sydney,
skirting the horizon like low hills, which have so little appearance of
elevation that it at first seems to be difficult to conjecture how they
came to be called mountains, when seen only from the coast. This
ridge runs north and south, and rises at some points to the height of
three thousand five hundred feet.

It is not many years since this ridge was considered as inaccessible,
and the deep gorges which intersect its sandstone rocks as impassable.
Its peaks rise in many places abruptly, and present such difficulties, as
to have deterred travellers from attempting to scale their summits, or
from seeking a passage through the ravines, which in the season of
rains are swept by impetuous torrents.

The same description will apply to the mountains which bound the
Illawarra district to the west, where sandstone also occurs, broken
into precipitous heights, and deep gorges. At the Kangaroo Pass,
the Illawarra Mountain is nearly two thousand feet high; its rapid
acclivity is covered with a dense vegetation, until within three hundred
feet of the summit; whence upwards a perpendicular face of rock is
exposed. The path through this pass winds among the narrow breaks
of the rock, and is toilsome to both beast and rider.

In one of the gorges which open upon this pass is a beautiful water-
fall. ‘The deep narrow glen opens abruptly upon the passenger, and
exhibits its bare rocks, and the tiny stream is seen leaping from one
projection of the rocky shelves to another, which break its headlong
course, until, lost in spray, it reaches the bottom, where its waters
collect, at the depth of two hundred and fifty feet below its upper edge,

NEW SOUTH WALES. 169

in a limpid pool. This gorge opens to the westward, and looks out
upon a mountain range.

Seven miles further, a descent by a similar path leads into the
Kangaroo Valley. This valley is nearly twenty miles in length, and
has an average breadth of about three miles; it is surrounded on all
sides by vertical precipices, from one thousand to one thousand eight
hundred feet in height. -

In consequence of the aridity which has been mentioned as a
character of the soil about Sydney, and which is also a prevailing
character throughout the rest of the country, there are many con-
tinuous miles of waste lands, which by the inhabitants are called
“forests.” These are very different from what we understand by the
term, and consist of gum trees (Eucalypti), so widely scattered that a
carriage may be driven rapidly through them without meeting any
obstruction, while the foliage of these trees is so thin and apparently
so dried up as scarcely to cast a shade. ‘Thus miles may be traversed
in these forests without impediment. A few marshy spots are occa-
sionally seen, covered with thickets of brush; and in other places there
are tracts so dry that even the gum tree will not grow upon them, and
which receive the direct and scorching rays of the sun.

The exceptions to this general character are found in the occasional
rising of basalt in conical peaks. The productions of the soil where
this rock prevails, are in striking contrast to those of the arid lands of
the sandstone formations; and the geological character of a basaltic
ridge can be detected at a distance by the luxuriant vegetation with
which it is clothed. These ridges become more and more frequent as
the distance from the coast increases, and are occasionally interspersed
with granite.

The latter rock is first seen in the Clwyd Valley, near Mount
Victoria, and about eighty miles from Sydney. This valley lies in the
western mountain range, which separates the waters that flow towards
the east and west. The land falls gradually to the westward, until, in
the Darling Valley, at a distance of four hundred miles, it is only about
four hundred feet above the sea. )

For some distance beyond Mount Victoria, granite characterizes
some extensive ridges, and basaltic mountains are occasionally com-
bined with those of granite.

Beyond Bathurst, about one hundred and twenty miles to the west
of Sydney, a compact limestone, in which there are many caverns,
occurs between ridges of granite and basalt; but, according to Major
Mitchell, the sandstone reappears on proceeding further west, towards

VOL. Il. P 22

170 NEW SOUTH WALES.

the Darling Valley, and is accompanied by the same sterility as upon
the coast.

Before reaching the western barrens there are many fine and fertile
valleys, among which, besides Bathurst, is that of Wellington, distant
about two hundred miles from Sydney. Both of these are already
settled. :

As to the more remote parts of the interior of New Holland, no
positive knowledge has yet been obtained. The prevailing opinion
appears to be, that an extensive desert extends throughout it; and this
Opinion is supported by citing the dry and scorching character of the
winds which blow from the west. The greatest distance to the west-
ward which has been explored, is only four hundred and fifty miles,
which is not a fourth part of the distance to the western coast. It
will thus be seen that a vast field of discovery is still open, which will
no doubt be ere long explored, under the auspices of the British
government.

To the southwest of Sydney the same compact limestone seen at
Bathurst makes its appearance at Argyle, also about one hundred and
twenty miles distant from the former place. This stone yields lime of
good quality, and is also a valuable material for building.

According to the best accounts, the range of granite appears to
begin in Van Diemen’s Land, and after being interrupted by Bass’s
Straits, runs through New South Wales in a broad belt. Near Bass’s
Straits it rises into a lofty group of mountains, called the Australian
Alps, the only snowy ridge known in Australia, and continuing thence
northward, it forms the dividing range of the waters.

The basaltic ridges of this southern region are said occasionally to
reach a height of four thousand feet, and a limestone similar to that
of Argyle and Bathurst, which contains many fossils, extends to the
“ Limestone Plains,” where it is succeeded by the usual sandstone.
How far this limestone extends to the southward has not been ascer-
tained. The finest districts in this southern section are those of Port
Philip, Argyle, Bass, and Bong-Bong.

To the northward, beyond the Hunter river, the country is inter-
sected by basaltic ridges, which increase in number until they merge
in the Liverpool Mountains, of which many of them are spurs.
Between these ridges, and to the north of the Goulburn branch, sand-
stone again prevails, and forms a great extent of barren country; but
the smaller valleys being generally bordered by nae of basalt, are
for the most part fertile.

The Liverpool range of mountains, although it has been traced for

NEW SOUTH WALES. 171

many miles in an east and west direction, is said by Major Mitchell
to be a prolongation of the range which runs parallel to the coast.
According to him, at the distance of one hundred miles inland, the
range trends to the northward, and thence pursues a course to the
northeast.

To the northward of the Liverpool range, plains of considerable
extent spread over the country, and form the district of New Iungland,
which affords fine pasturage. These plains lie at an altitude of be-
tween two and three thousand feet, and from that circumstance enjoy
a much cooler climate than Sydney, although five degrees nearer the
equator.

The most remarkable part of New South Wales is the district of
Illawarra, situated on the coast, about sixty miles to the south of Port
Jackson. This is a narrow strip, that seems to be formed by the
retreat of the sandstone cliffs from the sea, to a distance which varies
from one to ten miles. The cliffs or mountains vary in height from
one thousand to two thousand feet. This region is extremely fruitful ;
its forests are rich with a great variety of foliage, and of creeping
plants which twine around the trees. The great size and number of
the trees served to remind the gentlemen who visited it, of the vege-
tation of the tropical islands, luxuriant with tree-ferns, bananas,
banyans, &c. This luxuriance is in part owing to a rich and light
soil, composed of decomposed basalt and argillaceous sandstone, mixed
with vegetable mould, but more to the peculiarity of its climate. The
high cliffs which bound it to the west, keep off the scorching winds
which reach other parts of the coast from that quarter, and the moisture
of the sea-breeze intercepted by them, is condensed, falling in gentle
showers. For this reason, it is not subject to the long and frequent
droughts that occur in other parts of New South Wales.

These droughts are sometimes of such long continuance, that we at
one time read of the whole country having been burnt up for want of
rain, a famine threatened, and the sheep and cattle perishing in im-
mense numbers.

These have been succeeded by long-continued rains, which have
raised the rivers thirty or forty feet, flooded the whole country, deluged
the towns and villages, and completely destroyed the crops. Such
floods carry with them houses, barns, stacks of grain, &c., drown the
cattle, and even the inhabitants are in some cases saved only by being
taken from the tops of their houses in boats.

The year of our visit, 1839, added another instance to the list of
disasters of the latter kind; and the published accounts state that
twenty thousand sheep were lost in the valley of the Hawkesbury by

172 NEW SOUTH WALES.

the floods. Such evils indeed appear to be of frequent occurrence
and the settler in New South Wales has to contend with the elements
in an unusual degree.

Such disasters are equally injurious to the husbandman and the
wool-grower ; for the same cause that destroys the crops, also carries
off the stock, so that it is only the large capitalist who can successfully
struggle against or overcome such adverse circumstances. It is some
recompense for this state of things, that one or two favourable years
will completely repay all former losses ; and it is due to the perseverance
and industry of the inhabitants of New South Wales to say, that they
have already, in spite of the difficulties they have had to encounter,
made it one of the most flourishing colonies on the globe.

What these difficulties are, may be better understood by quoting some
remarks of Major Mitchell, the Surveyor-General, who has had greater
opportunities than any other person of examining the country, every
accessible portion of which he has visited.

« Sandstone prevails so much more than trap, limestone, or granite,
as to cover six-sevenths of the whole surface comprised within the
boundaries of nineteen counties, from Yass Plains in the south, to the
Liverpool range in the north. Wherever this happens to be the
surface, little besides barren sand is found in the place of soil
Deciduous vegetation scarcely exists there; no turf is found, for the
trees and shrubs being very inflammable, conflagrations take place so
frequently and extensively in the woods during summer, as to leave
very little vegetable matter to turn to earth.

“In the regions of sandstone, the territory is in short good for
nothing, and is, besides, generally inaccessible; thus presenting a
formidable obstruction to any communication between spots of a
better description.”

The information obtained from other sources does not, however,
sustain so very unfavourable a picture; it may, indeed, be true, when
applied to the labours of husbandry alone, but there is reason to believe,
on the other hand, that the excellence of the great staple of the country,
its wool, is in a great measure to be ascribed to the short and sweet
pasturage which these very sandstone districts afford. ‘These lands
produce, except during the prevalence of excessive droughts, a
nutritious herbage, and form a dry healthy soil, on which sheep thrive
particularly well, although it is said that one hundred acres of this
description, of average quality, will not support more than five or six
head of cattle.

In seasons of drought, the flocks and herds are driven into the
interior The year of our visit (1839) was accounted a wet one, and

NEW SOUTH WALES. 173

some parts of the sandstone district which produced good crops of
grain,* in drier seasons would have been dry to barrenness.

In such a climate it is not surprising that there are hardly any streams
that merit the name of rivers. It is necessary to guard against being
misled by the inspection of maps of the country, and forming from them
the idea that it is well watered. Such an impression would be erro-
neous, and yet the maps are not inaccurate; streams do at times exist
in the places where they are laid down on the maps, but for the greater
part of every year no more is to be seen than the beds or courses, in
which, during the season of floods, or after long-continued rains,
absolute torrents of water flow, but which will within the short space
of a month again become a string of deep pools. Were it not for this
peculiar provision of nature, the country for the greater part of the
year would be without water, and, consequently, uninhabitable.

The principal rivers which are found to the east of the Blue Moun-
tains are, the Hunter, George, Shoalham, and Hawkesbury. None of
these streams are navigable further than the tide flows in the estuaries,
which sometimes extend twenty or thirty miles inland, for beyond them
they are usually no more than twenty inches in depth. Hach of these
streams has numerous tributaries, which drain a large area of country,
and during heavy rains the main branches are suddenly swelled, and
cause the floods which have been spoken of. To the west of the
mountains, the water-courses are of a very different character. The
Darling, for instance, through a course of seven hundred miles, does
not receive a single tributary, although it is said to drain an extent of
sixty thousand square miles. It possesses the other character which
has been mentioned, of being frequently reduced to a mere string of
pools. ‘The Darling, Morrumbidgee, and Lachlan, unite about one
hundred miles from the ocean, and their joint stream is known by the
name of the Murray, which after passing through Lake Alexandria,
enters the sea at Encounter Bay. The surface drained by these streams
is about two hundred and fifty thousand square miles.

Another remarkable occurrence observed:in these western waters, is
the disappearance of a river in swampy lands, where, as is supposed,
it is swallowed up by the caverns in the limestone rocks. This is the
case with the Macquarie, which has its source near Bathurst.

According to all accounts, salt is very generally diffused throughout
New South Wales, and even all Australia. It has been reported as
being found in masses in the sandstone, but no specimens of it were

* In the diluvial flats along the rivers, the wheat crop is usually about twenty-five
bushels to the acre. Forty to forty-five bushels have been obtained, but such crops are
very unusual.

P2

174 NEW SOUTH WALKS.

obtained by the Expedition. Scarcely a well is dug in the interior
which is not brackish; and, according to Major Mitchell, Captain
Sturt, Oxley, and others, many of the rivers are quite saline in parts
of their course. The northern tributaries of the Hunter and Darling
are instances of this.

The lakes are also said to be saline, and in some instances sufii-
ciently strong to afford a large and profitable yield of salt; but being
very far in the interior, and without the means of transportation, they
are of little value. Along the south coast of Australia, such lakes are
described as existing near the sea, and may possibly prove of some
value to that portion of New Holland.

Lead and iron have been found in small quantities; the deposits of
the former are all trifling. Those of the latter afford too impure an
ore, and not in sufficient abundance, to be worked.

The minerals stated to be found in Australia, specimens of which
were procured for the Expedition, are, chalcedony, agates, jasper,
quartz, augite, and stilbite; feldspar, arragonite, gypsum, chlorite, mica
in granite; sulphur and alum, galena and plumbago, magnetic iron,
iron pyrites, and basalt.

Fossils appear to be confined to particular localities, but are by no
means rare.

Columns of basalt of great regularity are found on the coast of
{llawarra, but the articulations are all plane.

-The water is much impregnated with alum and iron, and its use is
avoided by the inhabitants.

Deserts covered with saline plants are said to be frequently met with.

Mitchell, in his travels in New South Wales, speaks of the different
heights of the ranges of mountains in this country, some of them in
the southern and some in the eastern portion as being covered with
snow, and rising four thousand five hundred feet above the sea. To
the Blue Mountain range he ascribes a height of three thousand four
hundred feet, composed entirely of sand; beyond this the granite or
dividing range occurs, which is only two thousand two hundred feet
in height. The Canobolus Mountains, further to the westward, are
four thousand four hundred and sixty-one feet high, and of primitive
rock; beyond these, the extensive plains of the interior, the valley of
Millewa or Murray river, seem again to be entirely composed of
sedimentary rocks, similar to the sandstone of the coast.

The climate of Australia may be considered generally as very dry;
the irregularity of the rains, and the nature of the soil, all prove that
it is so; yet the aridity is not marked, as in other countries, by a
general tendency in the plants to produce thorns, although the pecu-

NEW SOUTH WALES. 175

liarity of the vegetation makes the dryness apparent in other ways.
From all accounts, New South Wales is subject to as great atmo-
spheric vicissitudes, as the middle United States. For a series of
years, droughts will occur, which in turn give place to years of
successive floods, and these prevail to an extent that can hardly be
credited, were it not that the account has been received from good
authority. As a striking instance of it, Oxley, in his exploring
journeys into the interior, in 1817, found the country every where
overflowed, so as to prevent him from proceeding; while Mitchell,
in 1835, in the same districts, was continually in danger of perishing
from thirst. The latter states that he found unios (or fresh-water
mussels) sticking in the banks of rivers and ponds above the level of
the water; and also dead trees and saplings in similar situations.

This alternate change must exert a great influence on the produc-
tions of the soil; the rivers ceasing to flow, and their beds becoming
as it were dry, with the exception of the pools heretofore spoken of,
must likewise have an influence. The prevailing westerly winds
sweep with force over the whole country, blighting all they touch.
The effect of these hot winds is remarkable, for they will in a few
hours entirely destroy the crops, by extracting all the moisture from
the grain, even after it is formed, and almost ready for harvest; and
the only portion that is left is that which has been sheltered by trees,
hedges, or fences. ‘They thus destroy the prospect of the husband-
man when his crops are ready for the sickle. It is thought, and I
should imagine with reason, that were the Blue Mountains a more
lofty range, this would not be the case, as they would have a tendency
to continue the supplies to the streams throughout the year, by the
condensation of the vapour from the sea.

These hot winds come from the direction of the Blue Mountains,
and, what seems remarkable, are not felt on the other side of the
mountains, or in their immediate vicinity. Yet the extent between
the coast and the mountains is not sufficient to produce these winds,
being only forty-five miles; and if they proceed from the interior,
they must pass over those mountains, an elevation in some places of
three thousand four hundred feet. Their great destructiveness is
undoubtedly caused by their capacity for moisture, although few
observations have as yet (as far as I was able to obtain information)
been made upon them, except in relation to the blight they occasion.
It has been found that fields which have a line of woods on the side
whence they blow, escape injury. The harvest immediately on the
line of the coast does not suffer so much, being exempted in part from
their withering influence by the moisture that is imbibed from the sea.

176 NEW SOUTH WALES.

There is a portion of this country that is an exception to the general
rule of aridity, namely, the district of Illawarra. This forms a belt of
from one to ten miles wide, and has the range of the Kangaroo Hills
just behind it, of one thousand feet; these are sufficiently high at this
distance from the coast to condense the moisture, and also to protect
the district from the blighting effects of the blasts from the interior.

One is entirely unprepared for the alleged facts in relation to this
country ; for instance, Mitchell, in his journey to the south and west,
during the four winter months, witnessed no precipitation of moisture
except frosts in the mornings, and the thermometer was often below
the freezing point. Violent winds occur, which have obtained the
name of brick-fielders. They are nothing more than a kind of gust,
peculiar to the environs of Sydney, after a sultry day. During one of
these gusts little or no rain falls, though the wind frequently approaches
a hurricane in force. These winds get their name from bringing the
dust from the brick-fields, formerly in the suburbs of Sydney, but which
are now almost entirely built over. The temperature during the blow
generally falls twenty or twenty-five degrees, in the space of as many
minutes; the dust is very great, and the wind so strong, as to cause
apprehension lest the houses should be unroofed, or the chimneys
thrown down. Our standard barometer was carefully watched during
the coming on of two of these gusts, and found to fall 0:200 in., the
first time ; and the second only 0:020 in. ; but the temperature fell each
time about ten degrees. They were not, however, true brick-fielders,
or such as a resident would so denominate.

Snow has been known to fall in Sydney, but so rarely, that we were
told some of the inhabitants were doubtful as to its nature. . On tne
mountains it is not uncommon, and in the winter season is always seen
on those in the New England district, which, although three or four
degrees to the northward of Sydney, enjoys a much cooler climate.

Major Mitchell often found that the temperature exceeded 100° of
Fahrenheit. The heat was, of course, very oppressive, and more so
on account of the little shade the native trees afford. The difference
of temperature between the day and night is great, but upon this point
I was able to get but little information ; the meteorological registers that
have been kept at Sydney, have omitted the night hours altogether.

I have been favoured since my return with the abstract returns of
the meteorological registers during parts of the years 1840 and ’41,
kept at the South Head of Port Jackson, two hundred and fifty-four
feet above the level of the sea. Being kept immediately at the sea-
coast, this record does not furnish so satisfactory an account of the
climate, as if the place of observation had been farther in the interior.

NEW SOUTH WALES. 177

Ihave also those kept at Port Macquarie, to the north, and at Port
Philip, to the south; the following are some of the results from them.

During the winter months, June, July, August, and September, on
the eastern coast, they have the winds from the south to the west
quarter, blowing strong and cold, not unlike our northeast winds,
accompanied by rain. The quantity of rain which fell in the winter
of 1840 was 35:25 inches; in 1841, 45-00 inches. The temperature
during this season is from 40° to 78°, mean temperature, 66°. During
the summer months, October, November, December, January, and
February, easterly winds prevail, and the temperature varies from 56°
to 90°; the mean temperature being about 78°. On the south coast,
as appears from the tables kept at Port Philip, the winds pursue a
reversed order; for during the summer months they are found to pre-
vail from the southward and westward, whilst in winter they come
from the eastward. The mean standing of the barometer seems to be
higher at Port Philip than at Port Jackson and Port Macquarie; its
range is within 0°5 in., and at the two latter places it seldom reached
30-000 in. During our stay at Sydney, the range of the barometer
was generally higher than this. The temperature of the winter months
varies from 35° to 65°: the mean is about 47°; and that of the summer
months from 50° to 98°, the mean being 68°.

The above observations relative to the winds on the south and
eastern coast, will serve to explain some of the difficulties that have
resulted from vessels taking the southern route round New Holland, to
proceed west. These, during some seasons of the year, have met
constant head winds and storms. It would seem that the most feasible
time to make the southern passage to the westward, is during the
winter months. The probable cause of this difference is the immense
vacuum which is formed on the vast plains in the interior of New
Holland during the summer, that is supplied by these southerly winds.
But it is not altogether certain that these winds prevail at any distance
from the land. ‘They were described to me rather as regular breezes,
prevailing during the day, moderating towards night, and succeeded
by light land-winds until the following morning. The intermediate
months between the summer and winter, or those about the equinoxes,
are attended with variable winds and uncertain weather, but from
information I received, they do not appear to suffer here from very
violent gales during these seasons. Severe gales are, however, expe-
rienced at these seasons at New Zealand, in the same latitude, of
which I shall speak hereafter.

Our own results for the time we sapeal in Australia will be found
under their appropriate head. At Sydney I found a great variety of

VOL. II. 93

178 NEW SOUTH WALES.

Opinions existing about the climate. During our stay, the weather was
unfavourable for all astronomical observations, and almost the whole
time cloudy or rainy. It was amusing to find many of those to whom
I had the pleasure of an introduction, apologizing for the badness of
the weather. It brought forcibly to my recollection, the fault that
Captain Basil Hall finds with the people of the United States, but was
far from being annoying to me. I have but little doubt, that the
climate is, generally speaking, a healthy one, and not unlike that of
some parts of our own country. ‘The colony is subject to occasional
epidemics, and from the best information I could procure, it is thought
that the mortality is about one in forty-three; this may be called a
very small proportion, when one takes into consideration the great
quantity of ardent spirits that is consumed.

The general appearance of the vegetation of New South Wales
presents many peculiarities. The character of its productions is
totally distinct from those of the other portions of the globe. The
gum trees, Norfolk pines, and those of Moreton Bay, attract attention
from their scattered appearance, and peculiar foliage. All these have
a dark and sombre hue. A remark made by one of our gentlemen is
characteristic of the former, “that they were ghosts of trees.” The
leaves being set edgewise causes this appearance, and in consequence
give little or no shade. This peculiar position of the leaf is more
conspicuous in the Eucalypti than in other genera, for in them the
leaves are all pendant, while the leaves in the other genera are usually
upright, rigid, and somewhat as may be seen in the acacias and other
tribes. It was observed that both surfaces of the leaves were much
alike, having as it were, two upper surfaces. Whether any physiolo-
gical purpose has been assigned for such an arrangement I have not
been informed.

According to observations made by the gentlemen of the Expedition,
the great mass of the vegetation of Australia belongs to the natural
orders of Myrtaceze, Leguminose, Proteacee, Epacrideze, and Com-
posite.

The most common genera are Eucalyptus and Acacia. Many
trees of one of the species of the former genus were seen one hundred
and twenty feet in height, and with a girth, about six feet from the
ground, of eighteen feet. This species is called by the settlers black
gum, and is much used for domestic purposes, particularly its bark,
with which they cover their huts and houses. ‘The dilated foliaceous
acacias are very numerous, and are objects of attraction from their
gay and fragrant blossoms. The trees which present the greatest
variety of species, are those known as gum trees, viz.: blue gum,

NEW SOUTH WALES. 179

gray gum, flooded gum, iron bark, and stringy bark. The leaves of
these gum trees have a powerful aromatic flavour, and a taste ap-
proaching to camphor. They are used in the colony for a variety of
purposes, according to their quality. Thus, the blue gum, (Eucalyptus
piperita,) is employed for ship-building; the iron gum, (Kucalyptus
resinifera,) for fencing; and the gray gum and black-butted gum, for
boards and plank.

The Norfolk Island pine, (Araucaria excelsa,) is used for cabinet-
work; the swamp oak, (Casuarina torulosa,) for shingles and cabinet-
work, as is the cedar (Cedrela australis,) which grows to a very large
size; the turpentine-wood, (Tristania arbicans,) for boat building; the
pear tree, (Xylomelum pyriforme,) the apple, (Angophora lanceolata,)
the mountain-ash, sallow, sassafras, and several kinds of wood which
they called “‘Curagong,” were also observed in use, but the trees were
not seen.

The grass tree (Xanthorrhea hastilis) did not equal our expecta-
tions, which were probably too highly raised by the descriptions of
those who had gone before us; yet when in flower it must be a con-
spicuous object, and in all stages of growth suits well for the fore-
ground of a picture.

Among the most singular of the productions of Australia are the
wooden pears, as they are called. These have a close external resem-
blance to the fruit whose name they bear, but are ligneous within.
Another of the fruits is a cherry, whose stone is external, and would be
similar to our fruit of that name were the kernel in its proper place.
The pit adheres firmly to the pulp, which is of the size of a pistol-
bullet, but the fruit shrinks when ripe to that of a buck-shot. The pear
grows on a low shrub, the cherry on a large bush.

I have before remarked how different the “ forest,” so called in New
South Wales, is from what is understood by the term elsewhere. The
want of close growth is not the only remarkable appearance, but the
absence of all decayed foliage is also extraordinary. The ground is
clear of any fallen leaves, and every thing betokens that perennial
verdure is here the order of things. These two features combined,
give the forests of Australia the air of a neatly-kept park. Annual
plants, (if so they can be called,) abound in the forest, requiring, it is
said, more than a single year to bring their seeds to maturity. There
were instances we were told of crops of grain remaining three years
in the ground. A few plants found in other parts of the world, are, it
is well known, only brought into existence after a lapse of years, and
others give repeated crops during the same year. That these types, so
rare in other countries, should be abundant in Australia, is not remark-

180 NEW SOUTH WALES.

able, when it is considered that they are but instances of an almost
complete diversity between the natural histor y of this country and that
of other regions. *

The timber of the Australian trees is generally of greater specific
gravity than water.

The remark, that the leaves of the trees are idee and their wood
iron, is not inappropriate to most of the plants of this country. It is
not, however, to be inferred that all the plants are different from those
of other countries; so far from this being the case, a considerable
admixture of ordinary forms was met with. Among these were a great
variety of grasses, some of which were before considered to be peculiar
to North America. Many other forms decidedly North American were
also met with, a circumstance which, from the difference of geogra-
phical position, distance, and climate, was not to be expected; but for
these details I must refer to the Botanical Report.

All seem to have been struck with the apparent monotony of the
scenery, foliage, and flora, although in reality the latter presents great
variety. The general sentiment was, that they were fatigued by it,
which is not a little surprising, as the Australian Flora rivals in number
of species that of Brazil. This feeling may be accounted for by the
overpowering impression that is made by the gum trees, whose foliage
is of a dark sombre green. There is also something in the general
absence of underbrush ; and the trees are so distant from one another
that there is no need of roads, so that a carriage may drive any
where.

The trees are in general tall in proportion to their diameter, with an
umbrella top, and have the appearance of being thinly clad in foliage.
No woody vines are to be seen, nor any parasitic plants. In many
places a stunted growth of detached shrubs, called in the colony
“scrub,” exists, which might be termed one of their “forests” in a
dwarf shape.

In the Illawarra district a totally distinct state of things exists. Here
is to be found all the luxuriance of the tropics—lofty palms, among them
the Corypha australis, with tree-ferns of two or more varieties, diffe-
rent species of Ficus, a scandent Piper, and very many vines. The
forest of this district is thick, and alive with animal life.

This district is about fifty miles long, and forms a semicircular area
about thirty miles in its greatest width. The peculiarity of the situation
of this district would tend to show what would have been the probable
state of New Holland, or rather its eastern side, if the mountains were
sufficiently high to intercept the moisture of the ocean, and prevent the
access to it of the dry hot winds from the interior. Illawarra may be

NEW SOUTH WALES. 181

termed the granary of New South Wales; here the crops seldom if ever
fail, and are very abundant. |

I had the pleasure of visiting the seat of the Hon. Mr. M’Leay.
Ii is situated on Elizabeth Bay, beyond or within Wooloomoloo.
The house, which displays much taste, is built of sandstone, and is
situated beneath a hill, and on a knoll about fifty feet above the
water. In front of it is a lawn bounded by a parapet wall, and between
this and the water *are several acres of land very tastefully laid out as
an arboretum and flower-garden. Copses of native trees have been
judiciously left on the north and south sides of the grounds, and not
only protect them from the injurious winds, but add greatly to their
beauty. <A splendid specimen of the Acrostichum grande, or Stag
horn, from Moreton Bay, was seen suspended from a tree.

The garden is intersected ‘by many walks, leading to the best points
of view. It contains many rare and fine specimens of plants from

182 NEW SOUTH WALES.

England, Mauritius, the Cape of Good Hope, the East Indies, and
America. The flower-gardens at and in the neighbourhood of Sydney
would do credit to any part of the world.

The Norfolk Island pine, and that from Moreton Bay, (the Arau-
caria Cunninghamii,) thought by some to be as handsome a tree as the
one from Norfolk Island, were also among the plantations. From the
flower-garden a walk leads through a lattice-work bower, covered with
native Bignonias and passion-flowers, into the kitchen and fruit-garden.
These we found well stocked with fruit and vegetables of almost all
European kinds, which seem to thrive particularly well here. The
kindness, attention, and hospitality, with which we were received and
treated, will long be gratefully remembered. To Mr. M’Leay, the
Expedition is indebted for much aid, and through him our collections
were increased. The English oak thrives well, and many fine speci-
mens of it were seen. From the information I have received, very
many of the Australian plants succeed admirably in England.

The soil of Sydney consists of black mould, mixed with a clean
white sand. The quantity of sand is such, as in the dry seasons to —
affect the vegetation. This sand I understood is now exported to
England at a great profit, being found a valuable article in the
manufacture of plate glass. This soil, however, is made to yield a
plentiful supply of fruits and vegetables; and the display exhibited at
the Horticultural Exhibition was highly creditable, not only for the
perfection to which the productions had been brought, but for their
great variety. The exhibition was held in the large market-house in
George Street, which was tastefully decorated for the occasion with -
branches and festoons of flowers. In front of the door was an arch
formed of beautiful flowers, with the motto “ Advance, Australia!”
surmounted by a crown, and the letters V. R. in yellow flowers.
Behind this the band was stationed, which, on our entrance, struck up
Yankee Doodle. Tickets were sent to the consul for those belonging
to the squadron. There were a great many South American plants in
pots. A premium was received for Tropzeolum pentaphyllum, Mau-
randya Barclayana, and for two species of Calceolaria. There were
likewise Amaryllis belladonna and umbellata, Bouvardia triphylla,
Cobzea scandens, and several Passifloras, and a variety of hyacinths,
dahlias, tuberoses, &c., all fine. :

The grapes exhibited were beautiful, and some of them in very ~
large clusters. Nectarines, peaches, apples, pears, small oranges,
shaddocks, pine-apples, chestnuts, and walnuts, were also in abun-
dance.

_ After viewing the fruit we examined the vegetables, which consisted

“NEW SOUTH WALES, 183

of potatoes, carrots, turnips, very large pumpkins, cucumbers, cabbages
of different kinds and very fine, particularly the curled Savoy and early
York, tomatoes, celery, squashes, vegetable marrow, beets, capsicums,
and beans.

After the vegetables came specimens of native wines, and a silver
cup was given as a premium for the best. The white wine resembled
hock in taste; the red, claret. The climate is thought to be favourable
to the production of the grape. The first wine made in the colony
was by Mr. Blaxland, on his estate at Newington.

The premiums were silver medals. A very handsome gold one was
exhibited, which was to be given the next year for the best crop of
wheat.

There was a large concourse of visiters, all seemingly much inte-
rested in the exhibition, which was open from one o’clock until six.
The proceeds of the exhibition of the following day were for the benefit
of the poor.

There are a variety of other fruits and vegetables grown near
Sydney, which, being out of season, were not exhibited; but to show
the great variety this climate produces it is as well to mention them,
viz.: English cherries, plums, raspberries, figs, water and musk-melons,
filberts, citrons, lemons, strawberries, granadillas, olives, and a species .
of cherimoyer; and for vegetables, asparagus, cauliflower, lettuce,
radishes, spinach, broccoli, artichokes, egg-plant, mustard, and capers.

They have many imported varieties of grapes. Sir John Jamison
is now making experiments on his estate to effect their successful
growth, and manufacture wine. He has obtained cultivators both from
Madeira and the Rhine, to superintend his vineyard and vintage.
The reports made yearly to the Agricultural Society, hold out well-
founded hopes of success.

Several good nurseries of fruit trees exist in the vicinity af Para-
matta, and the Botanical Garden at Sydney also furnishes trees to the
cultivators.

The grains grown in the colony are, wheat, rye, barley, Indian corn,
and oats. The wheat yields from six to twenty-five bushels to the
acre, and some low ground as high as thirty-five bushels. Its weight
per bushel is sixty-two pounds. The crops of this grain are subject to
great fluctuations, and the most promising appearance may in a single
day be entirely destroyed.

Tobacco has been cultivated, and it is thought will succeed; but
the frequent frosts render it a very uncertain crop.

Cotton has been attempted, but with little success. The value of
pasturage, and its profitable yield in sheep-walks, will long be a bar to

184 NEW SOUTH WALES.

the extensive cultivation of any plants that require much labour in
their production. Our horticulturist remarks, that cherries do not
succeed well, being affected by the dry cutting winds which occur in
the blossoming season.

The orange, citron, and lemon trees present a scraggy and yellow
appearance, and produce small and insipid fruit, in comparison with
that of the tropics. Peaches thrive, and grow in large quantities, and
of high flavour. Every farmer has his peach orchard; and the fruit
is so plenty that they fatten their pigs on them.

The natives of Australia are fast disappearing. The entire aborigi-
nal population has been estimated as high as two hundred thousand;
this estimate is founded on the supposition that the unexplored re-
gions of the country do not differ materially from that part of it
which is known, which cannot well be the case. Other estimates, and
probably much nearer the truth, are given at from sixty to seventy-five
thousand.

The ravages of intoxication and disease, combined with their occa-
sional warfare, will readily account for the rapid disappearance of the
native population; and but a few more years will suffice for the now
scanty population to become extinct. In 1835, the Surveyor-General,
_ Mitchell, estimated that in about one-seventh of the whole colony,
which he had examined, the natives did not exceed six thousand in
number; they are in many parts most wretched-looking beings, and
incorrigible beggars: the moment they see a stranger, he is fairly
tormented to give something; a shilling or a sixpence contents many,
and when laid out for rum, or bread, is shared by all present.

The introduction of European arts has caused but little improve-
ment, while the vices which accompany them have been the bane of
the native population, which has thus acquired a fondness for ardent
spirits and tobacco. ‘The natives usually lead a wandering, vagabond
life, hanging about the houses of the settlers where they are well
treated, and doing little jobs for a slight recompense in the above
articles. Their habitations are mere temporary shelters, formed of
boughs and bark piled up against the stump of a fallen tree, rather to
shield them from the wind than for a regular habitation; the reason
for this may be, that owing to superstitious scruples they never encamp
in one spot three nights in succession. At Illawarra, their huts were
made by setting two forked sticks upright, on which another was laid
horizontally ; on the latter, one end of pieces of bark, taken from the
nearest gum tree, is laid, while the other end rests upon the ground.
A fire is built on the open side, which not only warms them, but
keeps off the myriads of musquitoes and other insects. As many as

NEW SOUTH WALES. 185

can enter such a hut, take shelter in it, lying upon the soft bark of the
emirec.

ares.
: i )
So Se f=. a >< ‘
Sle Ta Nee
eth a
= =~ i) N

—vS -——

== Wi | SS
— = pe ( —
—_— = San re —_——_-
Se : =
Rae Cd A ey” Fa Ae Bg ~ = re
aa NY Sf g 54 [TS yee ae tte af Ss yy Vf 24 = SUA a ao
Lv t dV) V Uae Ve aes aaa Ke) ra ? = ] a LEVEE es LEE 2
SEs SI Mn S SS i SM, = GES S SES Ud VAN et Ike ets at 5 rh —S

NATIVE HUT, NEW SOUTH WALES.”

The natives of Australia differ from any other race of men, in
features, complexion, habits, and language. Their colour and features
assimilate them to the African type; their long, black, silky hair has
a resemblance to the Malays; in their language they approximate
more nearly to our American Indians; while there is much in their
physical traits, manners, and customs, to which no analogy can be
traced in any other people.

The natives are of middle height, perhaps a little above it; they are
slender in make, with long arms and legs. From their wandering
life, irregular habits, and bad food, they are extremely meager; and
as their thinness is accompanied by considerable protuberance of the
abdomen, it gives to their figure a distorted and singular appearance.
The cast of the face is between the African and Malay; the forehead
usually narrow and high; the eyes small, black, and deep-set; the
nose much depressed at the upper part between the eyes, and widened
at the base, which is done in infancy by the mother, the natural shape
being of an aquiline form; the cheek-bones are high, the mouth large,
and furnished with strong, well-set teeth; the chin frequently retreats ;
the neck is thin and short. Their colour usually approaches chocolate,
a deep umber, or reddish black, varying much in shade; and indi-
viduals of pure blood are sometimes as light-coloured as mulattoes.
Their most striking distinction is their hair, which is like that of dark-
haired Europeans, although more silky. It is fine, disposed to curl,
and gives them a totally different appearance from the African, and
also from the Malay, and American Indian. Most of them have thick
beards and whiskers, and they are more hairy than the whites. The
proportions of two of them will be found in the table of comparative
proportions at the end of the fifth volume.

They are difficult to manage, taking offence easily when they are
ill treated; and if any one attempts to control, thwart, or restrain their
"i von. Q2 24

186 NEW SOUTH WALES.

*

wandering habits, they at once resort to the woods, and resume their
primitive mode of life, subsisting upon fish, grubs, berries, and occa-
sionally enjoying a feast of kangaroo or opossum-flesh. They eat
the larvee of all kinds of insects with great gusto. Those who reside
upon the coast, fish with gigs or spears, which are usually three-
pronged; they have no fish-hooks of their own manufacture.

NATIVE OF AUSTRALIA,

When they feel that they have been injured by a white settler, they
gratify their revenge by spearing his cattle; and it is said upon good
authority, that not a few of the whites, even of the better class, will,
when they can do so with impunity, retaliate in the blood of these
wretched natives; and it is to be regretted that they are not very
scrupulous in distinguishing the guilty from the innocent. |

The natives of New South Wales are a proud, high-tempered race:
each man is independent of his neighbour, owning no superior, and
exacting no deference; they have not in their language any word
signifying a chief or superior, nor to command or serve. Each indi-
vidual is the source of his own comforts, and the artificer of his own
household implements and weapons; and but for the love of com-
panionship, he might live with his family apart and isolated from the
rest, without sacrificg any advantages whatever. They have an air
of haughtiness and insolence arising from this independence, and
nothing will induce them to acknowledge any human being as their
superior, or to show any marks of respect. In illustration of this,
Mr. Watson the missionary is the only white man to whose name they

NEW SOUTH WALES. 187

prefix “ Mr.,” and this he thinks is chiefly owing to the habit acquired
when children under his authority. All others, of whatever rank, they
address by their Christian or surname. This does not proceed from
ignorance on their part, as they are known to understand the distinc-
tions of rank among the whites, and are continually witnessing the
subservience and respect exacted among them. They appear to have
a consciousness of independence, which causes them, on all occasions,
to treat even the highest with equality. On being asked to work, they
usually reply, “ White fellow work, not black fellow ;” and on entering
a room, they never remain standing, but immediately seat themselves.

They are not great talkers, but are usually silent and reserved.
They are generally well-disposed, but dislike to be much spoken to,
particularly in a tone of raillery. An anecdote was mentioned of a
gentleman amusing himself with a native, by teasing him, in perfect
good-humour, when the man suddenly seized a billet of wood, threw
it at him, and then in a great rage rushed for his spear. It was with
great difficulty that he could be pacified, and made to know that no
insult was intended; he then begged that they would not talk to him
in that manner, as he might become wild and ungovernable. They
look upon the whites with a mixture of distrust and contempt, and to
govern them by threats and violence is found impossible. They are
susceptible of being led by kind treatment, but on an injury or insult
they immediately take to the bush, and resume their wandering habits.
They do not carry on any systematic attacks, and their fears of the
whites are so great, that large companies of them have been dispersed
by small exploring parties and a few resolute stockmen.

Though they are constantly wandering about, yet they usually con-
fine themselves to a radius of fifty or sixty miles from the place they
consider their residence. If they venture beyond this, which they
sometimes do with a party of whites, they always betray the greatest
fear of falling in with some Myall or stranger blacks, who they say
would put them to death immediately.

Their great timidity has caused a false estimate to be put upon their
character, by ascribing to it great ferocity; and, as an instance of it,
it is mentioned, that if a party of natives be suddenly approached in
the interior, who are unacquainted with white men, and taken by sur-
prise, supposing that they are surrounded and doomed to death, they
make the most furious onset, and sell their lives as dearly as possible:
this arises from the panic with which they are seized, depriving them
temporarily of reason.

They have not, properly speaking, any distribution into tribes. In
their conflicts, those speaking the same language, and who have
fought side by side, are frequently drawn up in battle-array against

188 NEW SOUTH WALES.

each other, and a short time after may be again seen acting together
Their conflicts, for they do not deserve the name of wars, are con-
ducted after the following manner. The quarrel or misunderstanding
generally arises from some trivial affair; when the aggrieved party
assembles his neighbours to consult them relative to the course to be
pursued. ‘The general opinion having been declared, a messenger is
sent to announce their intention to commence hostilities to the oppo-
site party, and to fix a day for the combat. The latter immediately
assemble their friends, and make preparations for the approaching
contest. The two parties on the day assigned meet, accompanied
by the women and children. The first onset is made by the oldest
women (hags they might be termed) vituperating the opposite side.
Then a warrior advances, and several throws of spears take place.
These are parried with much dexterity, for all the natives possess
great art and skill in avoiding missiles with their shields. This ex-
change of missiles continues for some time, and not unfrequently ends
without any fatal result. When one of either party is killed, a separa-
tion takes place, succeeded by another course of recrimination, after
which explanations are made, the affair terminates, and hostility is at
an end; the two parties meet amicably, bury the dead, and join in the
corrobory dance.

These dances are not only the usual close of their combats, but are
frequent in time of peace. They appear almost necessary to stir up
their blood; and under the excitement they produce, the whole nature
of the people seems to be changed. To a spectator, the effect of one
of these exhibitions almost equals that of a tragic melodrame.

A suitable place for the performance is selected in the neighbour-
hood of their huts. Here a fire is built by the women and boys,
while such of the men as are to take a share in the exhibition, usually
about twenty in number, disappear to arrange their persons. When
these preparations are completed, and the fire burns brightly, the per-
formers are seen advancing in the guise of as many skeletons. This
effect is produced by means of pipe-clay, with which they paint broad
white lines on their arms and legs, and on the head, while others of
less breadth are drawn across the body, to correspond to the ribs.
The music consists in beating time on their shields, and singing, and
to it the movements of the dancers conform. It must not be supposed
that this exhibition is a dance in our sense of the word, nor is it like
any thing that we saw in the South Sea islands. It consists of violent
and odd movements of the arms, legs, and body, contortions and vio-
lent muscular actions, amounting almost to frenzy. The performers
appear more like a child’s pasteboard supple-Jack than any thing
human in their movements.

3m

Lge

re

re

<u.

NEW SOUTH WALES. 189

This action continues for a time, and then the skeletons, for so | may
term them, for they truly resemble them, suddenly seem to vanish and
reappear. The disappearance is effected by merely turning round, for
the figures are painted only in front, and their dusky forms are lost by
mingling with the dark background. The trees illuminated by the fire,
are brought out with some of the figures in bold relief, while others
were indistinct and ghost-like. All concurred to give an air of wildness
to the strange scene. As the dance proceeds, the excitement increases,
and those who a short time before appeared only half alive, become full
of animation, and finally were obliged to stop from exhaustion.

These corroborys are the occasion of much intercourse among the
tribes, as they frequently make visits to each other for the sole purpose
of carrying a new song for the dance. They have several kinds of
these dances, which appear to be their only amusement. In their music
they do not sound any of the common chords, and the only accompa-
niment was a kind of bass, as written below, which was in fact only a
very deep-toned grunt, sounded, as ho, ho, ho, very deep in the throat.
At the end of each dance they finished with a loud whoo, or screech,
an octave above the key-note.

ae a ae Coes ae 2a =a

er yO
pean O2 eH —e-e- J—e-6-}- = a

JS SS SS =
aoe Sao Dea EPEC EY [aN CATR

Te LeF
—————E—Ee—— EE EE ——— — 8 -—— — ——— ——- a a oe ee eae eee reer eee
SSS ee ee e—6—_-1 8 —_—
3 =e eee E e-ef ee
oo eS e—9—-—-— pp lp pp 6
ee Ne ee ee
| Se eee ee SS

The above is thought by Mr. Drayton not to be entirely native
music, but the following he has no doubt of; the words are given as
he heard them.

eerie se

O man gar merry own dunbar un mun gar.

190 NEW SOUTH WALES.

The above, as well as those which follow, were obtained from a
native who was on his way with the new song to his tribe.

eae iSSiSaeressr as
[BSS aes PE lk

“D5 9-1-9-:.2.0-.6.1.0-.0.0..8-\-x ae we
(S45. jms dees oe james Sins wie ea i eet
— Soe meee aa Pee
es f& er
Abang abang abang abang abened alien abang abang a

pine 9-2-2. algiaaeae os RNS

Si EE aE a (a Meee o- 6 ©-T 0-9-9 e=
vecaw ry jah jim gun relah gumbe-ry jah jimgun relah
ese Sees eee Se Sete Seana ||
ee a oe a he a A

bang abang abang abang abang abang abang shine a.

We have seen that the combats, of which mention has been made,
are attended with little loss of life; nor are their set battles bloody. In
all their contests they seem to act upon certain principles, well esta-
blished in their code of honour, and firmly adhered to. According to
-eye-witnesses of their battles, these are conducted with system and
regularity. On one occasion, the parties advanced towards each other
drawn up in three lines, with the women following in the rear, and
when they had arrived within a few rods of each other, they threw
their boomerengs or curved sticks. These, as they fell among their
opponents, were picked up by the women, and given to the warriors,
who hurled them back to their original owners, by whom they were
again used. When these weapons were lost or broken, they then had
recourse to their spears, which they threw, parried, and returned in
like manner. They then closed and fought hand to hand with their
clubs, for a considerable time. ‘Their extraordinary quickness of eye,
alertness, and agility of movement, protect them from much harm ; and
their thickness of skull may also be taken into account, for nothing
worse than a few bruises and broken limbs resulted. The fight
gradually dwindled down to a single combat between two of the most
determined warriors, and when one of these was knocked down by a
stunning blow, another took his place and continued the fight until one
was severely injured. The battle then terminated.

NEW SOUTH WALES. 191

Some of their personal or private quarrels are settled by a sort of
duel, or rather a trial of whose head is hardest. The accused or
challenged party extends his head, with the crown uppermost, towards
his adversary, who strikes a blow with his utmost force with a waddy,
which is the weapon they usually carry about them, and with which
they punish their wives, who exhibit generally many marks from the
use of it. The challenger then presents his head in return, and blows
are thus continued@alternately, until one or the other is disabled, or
both declare themselves satisfied. Those who have witnessed these
encounters are quite astonished that every blow does not stun or kill,
for each of them would be fatal to a white man; but the great thickness
of their skulls enables them to sustain this violence with but little
injury.

Their weapons are the spear, club, or nulla-nulla, boomgereng,
dundumel, and the bundi, of which drawings are given in the tail-
piece at the end of the last chapter. Their spears are about ten feet
long, and very slender, made of cane or wood tapering to a point,
which is barbed. ‘They are light, and one would scarcely be inclined
to believe that they could be darted with any force; nor could they
without the aid of the wammera, a straight flat stick, three feet in
length, terminating in a socket of bone or hide, into which the end of
the spear is fixed. The wammera is grasped in the right hand by
three fingers, the spear lying between the fore-finger and thumb.
Previous to throwing it, a tremulous or vibratory motion is given to it,
which is supposed to add to the accuracy of the aim; in projecting the
spear, the wammera is retained in the hand, and the use of this simple
contrivance adds greatly to the projectile force given to the spear.
They are well practised in the use of these weapons.

The nulla-nulla, or uta, is from thirty to thirty-six inches in length,
the handle being of a size to be conveniently grasped.

The dundumel is a weapon used by the natives of the interior; it
has a curved flat handle thirty inches in length, and terminates in a
projection not unlike a hatchet; it is thrown from the hand before
coming to close quarters, and usually at a very short distance.

But the most extraordinary weapon is the boomereng. This is a
flat stick, three feet long and two inches wide by threé quarters of an
inch thick, curved or crooked in the centre, forming an obtuse angle.
At first sight one would conclude it was a wooden sword, very rudely
and clumsily made; indeed one of the early navigators took it for such.
It is an implement used both for war and inthe chase. In the hands
of a native it is a missile efficient for both, and is made to describe
some most extraordinary curves and movements.

192 NEW SOUTH WALES.

NATIVE THROWING THE BOOMERENG,

It is grasped at one end in the right hand, and is thrown sickle-wise,
either upwards into the air, or downwards so as to strike the ground at
some distance from the thrower. In the first case it flies with a rotary
motion, as its shape would indicate; after ascending to a great height in
the air, it suddenly returns in an elliptical orbit to a spot near its start-
ing-point. The natives in its use are enabled to strike objects which lie
behind others with great precision, ‘and to reach those near as if by a
back-stroke, by throwing it at a particular angle. The diagram at the
end of the chapter, exhibits the curves at the angles of 22°, 45°, and 65°,
‘ respectively, which I have obtained in making experiments with it.
Some facts which were spoken of in its use, are remarkable. On throw-
ing it downwards on the ground, it rebounds in a straight line, pursuing
a ricochet motion until it strikes the object at which it is thrown. Birds
and small animals are killed with it, and it is also used in killing ducks.
The most singular curve described by it, is when thrown into the air,
above the angle of 45°; its flight is always then backwards, and the
native who throws it stands with his back, instead of his face, to the
object ‘he is desirous of hitting. The diagram also exhibits its fall in
case it loses its rotary motion. It is a favourite weapon with the
natives, and is frequently seen ingeniously carved. :

As a defence, they use a shield made of the thick bark of the gum
tree; this they call hiclemara. It is peculiar in shape, and on the

.

NEW SOUTH WALES. 193

coast is three feet long by six or eight inches wide, with a handle in
the centre; it is made rounding. Those in the interior are only a
three-cornered piece of wood, with a hole on each side, through which
the hand is thrust. The size of the latter is smaller, being only two
feet long and three or four inches broad. It would seem almost im-
possible that se small a shield should be sufficient to guard the body of
a man; and nothing but their quickness of eye and hand could make
it of any value as a protection against the spear or club.

The mode in which the natives climb trees was considered ex-
traordinary by those who witnessed it, although they had _ been
accustomed to the feats of the Polynesians in the ascent of the cocoa
nut trees. The Australians mount a tree four or five feet in diameter,
both with rapidity and safety. As they climb they cut notches above
them, with a stone or metal hatchet, large enough to admit two of
their toes, which are inserted in them, and support their weight until
other holes are cut.

The natives who reside upon the coast use canoes which are con-
structed as follows.

A gum tree that has a thick and tough bark is selected; this is
girdled. and the bark slit so that by care a piece of it may be stripped
from the tree large enough to make the canoe, which is usually about
fourteen feet long and seven wide. This piece of bark is charred on
the inside, after which it is folded in each end, so as to bring the edges
of the two halves of the entire circuit of the bark together; in this
position these edges are fastened by cords and wooden rivets. The
simple canoe is now complete, is usually about three feet wide in the
middle, and will convey half a dozen persons.

They use paddles of different sizes, say from two to five feet in
length. In using the shorter kind, a paddle is held in each hand.

A fire is commonly carried upon a layer of gravel in the middle of
the boat: a custom which appears to arise either from a natural or
superstitious reluctance to be without a fire at any time. In this
custom, as will be recollected, they resemble the Fuegians, who, how-
ever, far excel them in the art of constructing canoes.

The social system and intercourse of the Australians is regulated
by custom alone. As no system of government exists, or any acknow-
ledgment of power to enact laws, they are solely guided by old usage,
and can give no account whatever of its origin. ‘The universal repro-
bation of their associates, which follows a breach of ancient customs,
has a strong tendency to preserve a strict observance of them. Many
of these customs struck us as remarkable; those that have not been

VOL. Il. R 25

194 NEW SOUTH WALES.

actually seen by the officers of the Expedition, have been described by
persons entitled to the fullest credit.

The custom (to use the language of the settlers) “of making
"oung men,” is singular. The object of the institution seems to be to
imprint forcibly upon the youth the rules and observances by which
his after life is to be governed; and so strikingly are they adapted to
insure good conduct, that it can hardly be believed that they could
have originated among savages, such as the natives of Australia
now are.

When the boys reach the age of fourteen, or that of puberty, the
elders of the tribe prepare to initiate them into the privileges of
manhood. A night or two previous, a dismal cry is heard in the
woods, which the boys are told is the Bulu calling for them. There-
upon all the men of the tribe set off for some secluded spot, previously
fixed upon, taking with them the boys or youths to be initiated. No
white man is allowed to be present, and the precise nature of the
ceremony is therefore unknown; but it is certain that the ceremonies
are designed to try their courage, fortitude, and the expertness of the
boys in reference to their future employments in the chase and in war.
There is probably some difference in these ceremonies among the
different tribes. ‘The Wellington station, or those of the interior, for
instance, never knock out a front tooth, which is always done on the
coast.

From the time the youths are initiated, they are required to yield
implicit obedience to their elders. This is the only control that seems
to prevail, and is very requisite to preserve order and harmony in their
social intercourse, as well as to supply the place of distinctions of rank
among them.

The youths are likewise restricted to articles of diet, not being
allowed to eat eggs, fish, or any of the finer kinds of opossum or
kangaroo. Their fare is consequently of a very poor description, but
as they grow older these restrictions are removed, although at what
age we have not learnt; but after having passed the middle age, they
are entirely at liberty to partake of all. The purpose of this is thought
to be not only to accustom them to a simple and hardy way of living,
but also that they should provide for the aged, and not be allowed to
appropriate all to themselves. Selfishness is therefore no part of their
character, and all observers are struck with their custom of dividing
any thing they may receive among each other, a disinterestedness that
is seldom seen among civilized nations.

To protect the morals of the youths, they are forbidden from the time

NEW SOUTH WALES. 195

of their initiation until their marriage to speak to or even to approach
a female. They must encamp at a distance from them, and if, per-
chance, one is seen in the pathway, they are obliged to make a detour
in order to avoid her. Mr. Watson stated he had been often put to
great inconvenience in travelling through the woods with a young
native for his guide, as he could never be induced to approach an
encampment where there were any women.

The ceremony of marriage is peculiar. In most cases the parties
are betrothed at an early age, and as soon as they arrive at the proper
age, the young man claims his gin or wife.

The women are considered as an article of property, and are sold
or given away by the parents or relatives without the least regard to
their own wishes. As far as our observation went, the women appear
to take little care of their children. Polygamy exists, and they will
frequently give one of their wives to a friend who may be in want of
one; but notwithstanding this laxity they are extremely jealous, and
are very prompt to resent any freedom taken with their wives. Their
quarrels for the most part are occasioned by the fair sex, and being the
cause, they usually are the greatest sufferers ; for the waddy is applied
to their heads in a most unmerciful style, and few old women are to
be seen who do not bear unquestionable marks of the hard usage they
have received. ‘The husband who suspects another of seducing his
wife, either kills one or both. The affair is taken up by the tribe, if
the party belongs to another, who inflict punishment on him in the
following manner.

The guilty party is furnished with a shield, ane made to stand at a
suitable distance, and the whole tribe cast their spears at him; his
expertness and activity often enable him to escape any serious injury,
but instances do occur in which the party is killed. Such punishments
are inflicted with great formality, upon an appointed day, and the
whole tribe assemble to witness it. The person most injured has the
first throw, and it depends upon the feelings of the tribe respecting the
offence committed, whether they endeavour to do i injury to the culprit
or not; and thus it may be supposed that there is some judgment
evinced in this mode of punishment.

The following account of the burial of their dead, was received from
the missionary who was an eye-witness to it. He was called out one
evening to see a native, who they said was dying. On repairing to
the Camp, he was too late, for the man was already dead, and not-
withstanding the short space of time that had elapsed, the corpse was
already wrapped up for burial. The legs had been bent at the knees
and hips, and tied to the body, and the head bent downwards towards

196 NEW SOUTH WALES.

the legs. In this position the corpse was enveloped in a blanket, and
bound round with many ligatures, so as to form a shapeless lump.
There were about fifty natives present, seated within a small space in
front. The women were raising dismal lamentations and cutting
themselves with sharp sticks; while the men were engaged in an
earnest consultation as to the place which should be fixed upon for the
burial. At length it was determined to be on the banks of the Mac-
quarie, at no great distance from the mission station. On the following
day the missionary proceeded to the place, and found that the natives
had already cleared the grass from a space about twenty feet in
diameter; in the centre of this the grave was marked out, of an oval
shape, six feet long by three feet wide. After digging to the depth of
about a foot, they left a ledge all around the grave of a few inches in
width: the excavation, thus diminished in size, was continued to the depth
of five feet, the sides not being exactly perpendicular, but sloping slightly
inwards. At the bottom of the grave was laid a bed of leaves, covered
with an opossum-skin cloak, and having a stuffed bag of kangaroo-skin
for a pillow ; on this couch the body was laid, and the implements of
hunting and war which the deceased had used during his lifetime were
laid beside him. Leaves and branches of bushes were strewed over
him, until the grave was filled up to the ledge or shelf above mentioned.
Across the grave were laid strong stakes, with the ends resting on this
shelf, and on these a layer of stones, which filled the hole to the level
of the soil. The excavated earth was then put over the whole, forming
a conical heap eight or nine feet high. The trees on each side were
marked with irregular incisions, but whether intended as symbols, or
merely to identify the place of sepulture, was not understood. All the
time this was going on, fires were kept burning around the place, to
drive away evil spirits, and the women and children uttered loud
lamentations, inflicting at the same time wounds upon themselves.
When the grave was completed, all the women and children were
ordered away, and the missionary, perceiving that it was expected
that he would do the same, retired also. His presumption was that
they intended to give utterance to their grief, and that they were
ashamed to do it in his presence, or before the women and children.
The day after the burial the natives visited every spot in which they
recollected to have seen the deceased, and fumigated it, for the purpose
of driving away the evil spirits. They even went into the missionaries’
houses, greatly to the annoyance of the ladies. °
Their style of mourning consists in bedaubing themselves with pipe-
clay; and a more hideous object than an old woman thus tricked out
can hardly be conceived. The body and limbs are streaked with it,

NEW SOUTH WALES. 197

and the face completely covered as with a mask, in which holes are
left for the eyes, nostrils, and mouth. ‘The mask is gradually removed,
until the last that is seen of it is a small patch on the top of the head.

They have some idea of a future state, although some assert that the
whole man dies, and that nothing is left of him; while others are of
opinion that his spirit yet lives, either as a wandering ghost or in a
state of metamorphosis, animating a bird or other creature of a lower
order than man.

Their opinions on religious subjects generally partake of the same
unsettled character, which makes it very difficult to obtain any clear
idea of them. The great difficulty is the unwillingness of the natives
to talk upon the subject, either from superstition or shame; and it is the
opinion of the missionaries that no full account of their religious notions
will be obtained, until one of the well-informed adults is converted to
Christianity, an event which is not soon to be expected. ‘The mission-
aries have had little or no success; none of the adults have hitherto
shown any desire to embrace Christianity; and it is remarked, that
there appears to be a want of susceptibility in their character to
religious impressions. Some of their ceremonies which partook of that
character have been discontinued of late years, and no others have been
adopted in their place. They have, however, some indistinct notions
of a Deity. The missionaries at Wellington have heard from them of
a being whom they call Bai-a-mai, and whom, with his son Burambin,
they deem the creator of all things. To this Bai-a-mai they pay a kind
of annual worship by dancing and singing a song in his honour. This
song, they say, was brought from a distant country by strangers who
went about teaching it. This annual worship took place in the month
of February, and all who did not join in it were supposed to incur the
displeasure of the god.

Bai-a-mai was supposed to live on an island beyond the great sea of
the coast, and to eat fish, which, when he required food, came up at his
call from the water. Burambin, others say, was brought into existence
by Bai-a-mai, when the missionaries first came to Wellington.

Dararwirgal is a brother of Bai-a-mai, and lives in the far west. To
him they ascribe the origin of the small-pox, which has made such
ravages among them. ‘They say that he was vexed for want of a
tomahawk, and therefore sent that disease among them; but they now
suppose that he has obtained» one, and that the disease will come no
more.

Balumbals are angels, said to be white, who live on a mountain to
the southwest, at a great distance. Their food is honey, and their

employment like that of the missionaries.
R2

198 NEW SOUTH WALES.

Wandong is their evil spirit, whom they have learnt from the whites
to call the “ Devil.” They describe him as a gigantic black man,
always prowling about at night, ready to seize and devour any unfor-
tunate wanderer. So great is their horror of this imaginary being,
that they never venture from their fires at night, except under the
pressure of great necessity, when they always carry a firebrand to
intimidate the monster.

FLIGHT OF THE BOOMERENG,

Cte TTR Vener

CONTENTS.

EXTENT OF SEA-COAST OF AUSTRALIA—PROGRESS OF DISCOVERY—EXTENT OF THE
GOVERNMENT OF NEW SOUTH WALES—HISTORY OF NEW SOUTH WALES—AUSTRA-
LIAN LAND COMPANY—LAND FUND—POLICY OF GOVERNOR MACQUARIE—CONVICT-
SHIP — VALUE OF CONVICT LABOUR — DISPOSITION OF CONVICTS ON ARRIVAL —
ALLOWANCES TO CONVICT SERVANTS—WORKING OF THE ASSIGNMENT SYSTEM —
SEPARATION OF FEMALE CONVICTS FROM THEIR CHILDREN—FACTORY AT PARA-
MATTA—ITS DISCIPLINE — CHILDREN IN THE FACTORY — IRON-GANGS — CAPTAIN
MACONOCHIE’S SOCIAL SYSTEM— ITS OPERATION — ITS PARTIAL ADOPTION AT
SYDNEY, AND AT NORFOLK ISLAND—TWO DIFFERENT FORMS OF SOCIAL SYSTEM—
CONDITION OF CONVICTS AND SOLDIERS COMPARED — TICKET-OF-LEAVE MEN —
DISTINCTIONS IN SOCIETY — FREE EMIGRANTS— LABOURING CLASS OF FREE EMI-
GRANTS—CRIMPS—HIGHER CLASS OF SOCIETY —GOVERNOR, HOW APPOINTED, AND
FOR WHAT TERM—HIS POWERS—HIS SUCCESSOR IN CASE OF DEATH OR ABSENCE—
LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL—COLONIAL RULES AND REGULATIONS —EXPENDITURE AND
MODE OF TAXATION—WORKING OF THE LEGISLATIVE SYSTEM—STATUTE OF NEW
SOUTH WALES—DESIRE FOR A NEW CONSTITUTION —BOUNTY ON IMMIGRATION —
EMIGRATION—MODE OF PROCURING GRANTS OF LAND—STATE OF CRIME IN NEW
SOUTH WALES—JUDGE BURTON’S CHARGE—HIS REPORT ON THE JURY SYSTEM —
OPINIONS OF OTHER JUDGES—COURTS OF LAW —EDUCATION — BISHOPRIC OF NEW
SOUTH WALES—COLLEGES.

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CHAPTER VII.

HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, AND SOCIAL STATE
OF NEW SOUTH WALES.

1839,

New Sours Wates is known in the United States almost by its
name alone.

It happened from the circumstances of our visit, that we were
enabled to obtain much information in relation to this rising colony.

Ausiralia, or New Holland, of which New South Wales is as yet
the most important part, requires no description of its dimensions and
geographical position. It is sufficient to note the fact that it possesses
a sea-coast of the vast extent of eight thousand miles. It was first
discovered by the Dutch, while engaged in exploring the coast of
New Guinea, who saw the portion of it to the south of Endeavour
Straits, and gave it a name from that of their own country, in 1606.
A few months after this discovery, Louis de Torres made the north-
eastern point of Australia.

In 1616, Theodoric Hartog fell in with that part of the western
coast which lies within the tropic and latitude 28° 8. This he called
Endracht’s Land, after the name of his vessel.

In 1618, the coast between latitude 11° and 15° S., reaching from
‘the Gulf of Carpentaria to Cape Talbot, was seen by Zeachem.

In 1628, De Witt and Carpenter discovered that part of the western
coast known as De Witt’s Land, and surveyed the Gulf of Carpentaria.

In 1667, Van Nuyt sailed along the southern coast, from Cape
Leeuwin to Spencer’s Gulf; and to this part of Australia his name
has of late been restored upon the maps.

Tasman, in 1642, discovered Van Diemen’s Land, which was long
after considered to be connected with the main land of Australia.
Finally, between 1766 and 1770, after an interval of a century, during
which no researches had been made, and some of the discoveries

VOL, IL. 26 (201)

202 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

already mentioned had been forgotten, Cook explored the eastern
coast, from Cape Home to Cape York, and called its whole extent
New South Wales.

Researches were again suspended until after the establishment of the
convict colony, and in 1798 Flinders and Bass discovered the straits
which bear the name of the latter, which separate Van Diemen’s from
the main land, and sa#led around that island. To the country adjacent
to these straits, the name of Bass’s Land was given; and in 1803,
Grant explored the coast to the west of it. Flinders, who was for
several years engaged in making surveys on the eastern coast, also
connected the land discovered by Grant, with that of Van Nuyt, and
re-examined the latter. It is to Flinders that we owe our most precise
knowledge of the general geographical features of the eastern and
southern coast of Australia; and since the close of his labours,
Captain P. P. King, of H. B. M. Navy, has been engaged, and other
officers are now assiduously employed, in surveying the northern coast.
The interior, as has been already stated, has been made the subject of
numerous exploring tours by the surveyors of the colony, and other
persons employed by the British government.

The territory included under the name of New South Wales is the
eastern portion of Australia, and extends from the twenty-third to the
thirty-eighth degree of south latitude. The power of its governor,
however, extends further, and within his jurisdiction are included the
whole eastern coast, from Cape York to Wilson’s Promontory, or
between latitude 10° 37’ and 39° 2' 8.; with the country inland as far
as the meridian of 129° EK. Moreton Bay on the northern, and Port
Philip on the southern coast, with Norfolk Island, and all others
between it and the coast, are also placed under his authority.

The epoch whence the history of the colony dates, is the year 1787,
when the eastern coast was chosen by the British government as the
site of a penal colony. The convicts hold so prominent a part in the
events which have occurred since that period, that their history may
be almost considered as that of New South Wales.

Botany Bay, in consequence of extravagant ideas formed of its
excellence as a harbour, and the fertility of the country around it,
was the portion chosen for the settlement. The first gang of convicts
sent out was composed of six hundred male and two hundred and
fifty female criminals, who were guarded by a body of troops con-
sisting of two hundred officers and soldiers. About forty of the
soldiers were married, and had their wives and children with them.
The whole were under the direction of Captain Philips, who held the
appointment of governor.

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 203

The expedition, in conformity to the instructions, proceeded in the
first instance to Botany Bay. This, to their disappointment, was
found an unsafe harbour; and the country far from suitable for the
intended purpose. On exploring the coast, they unexpectedly found,
about seven miles to the northward, a capacious and beautiful harbour,
which Cook had reported as fit only for boats; this, which they called
Port Jackson, proved to be adapted to the intended purpose, and to it
they removed. The people of the colony were landed on the 26th of
January, 1788. The Governor delivered an address to his settlers on
the 7th of February, strongly recommending marriage to the con-
victs; and in consequence of this admonition, fourteen marriages took
place the succeeding week.

In 1790, one of the severe droughts to which the country is liable
occurred, and the colony was reduced to great distress for provisions.
All the live-stock, which had been imported for breeding, was killed
off for food, and the inhabitants were reduced to an ear of corn per day.
From the exhaustion which prevailed, all labour was suspended.

In February, 1792, the first heutenant-governor arrived. He was
also commandant of the New South Wales corps. This corps was
specially raised for service in the colony, and was one of the greatest
evils under which it suffered for many years.

In December, 1792, Governor Philips returned to England.

In September, 1795, Governor Hunter arrived, and assumed the
direction of affairs. His administration lasted until 1802.

During the interregnum between Governors Philips and Hunter,
Captain Paterson acted as governor.

In 1794, the first free settlers arrived in the colony.

The officers of the New South Wales corps soon became merchants,
and dealt in all that was issued from the public stores. Rum was the
great article of traffic; and an act was passed, that on the arrival of
any vessel with stores, an issue of spirits from her cargo should be
made to each officer in proportion to his rank.

The officers also obtained the manifest of every vessel that arrived,
selected what they thought proper from her cargo, and afterwards
disposed of it to the soldiers, settlers, and convicts, at a large profit.

They claimed the privilege of importing spirits, which was refused
to others, and of selling it to the non-commissioned officers, many of
whom held licenses to sell spirits by retail. In this way, many of
the officers of the New South Wales corps realized large sums by
trade, and counteracted all the endeavours of the governor to effect a
reform in the colony.

In September, 1800, Captain King assumed his duties as governor,

204 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

and during the whole of his administration, which lasted till 1806,
provisions continued to be imported into the colony at the expense of
the home government, principally from the Cape of Good Hope and
Batavia. |

The military were gradually acquiring more power, and their
officers generally set the laws at defiance, assuming the right of
landing spirits from every vessel that arrived. Governor King endea-
voured to put a stop to this practice; but the military, who had become
powerful and influential, overawed him. Jn an evil hour, hoping to
check their power and influence, he gave licenses not only to the
constables, but to the jailer, to sell rum; and the latter, it is said, was
allowed to keep a public tap-room opposite the jail door.

In consequence of this state of things, the Governor’s power was
very much weakened, if not entirely destroyed, and the whole settle-
ment was thrown into confusion. The convicts were under no effi-
cient control, and bands of them, under the name of Bush-rangers,*
traversed the country, and entered the houses of the settlers even in
the open day, committing the most fearful atrocities. Anarchy and
confusion reigned every where.

The Castle Hill convicts now mutinied, but were overcome, and
some of them executed.

Captain Bligh, R. N. (who had commanded the Bounty), succeeded
Captain King. During his administration, rum was the medium of
exchange, and the settlers had no other purchasers for their produce
but the privileged dealers in that article, who took every advantage
of them.

In 1807, two stills for manufacturing spirits were imported by Mr.
M’Arthur and Captain Abbot, of the 102d regiment. The Governor
seized them, and prohibited distillation in the colony. Much discontent
grew out of this prohibition; and other difficulties occurred, which
resulted in the arrest of Governor Bligh by the military, and other
turbulent persons in the colony, in 1808. The home government now
saw the necessity of putting down this lawless spirit, and reinstated
Governor Bligh; but although he was also promoted to the rank of
admiral, he is said to have died of a broken heart.

Governor Macquarie was his successor. He seems to have endea-

* The Bush-rangers are still very troublesome at times. In addition to the runaway
convicts, of which their bands are principally composed, they also include soldiers who have
deserted. They occasionally commit great barbarities, and are consequently much dreaded.
Few indeed of the lonely settlements are safe from their depredations. In order to suppress
them, there is a body of mounted police; but its numbers are too small to put an effectual
stop to the evil.

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 205

voured to build up Sydney and Paramatta at the expense of the morals
of the community, and appears to have discouraged free emigration.
The emancipated convicts were admitted by him to the same privileges
and immunities as the free settlers; and he treated the whole colony as
if it were the gift of the mother country to those of her subjects who
had outraged her laws. This policy soon had its effect at home, where
it is said that crimes were committed in the hope of being sentenced to
transportation ; and it is asserted that the emancipated convicts, known
as ticket-of-leave men, were much more desirably situated than honest
persons of their own rank of life in the mother country. Many of ©
these in consequence wrote to their friends to come out to them, and
pointed out the means of doing so at the expense of the crown. This
state of things was offensive to the free settlers, who opposed the
endeavours of the colonial government to break down the distinctions
that naturally exist between the polluted and unpolluted. Their repug-
nance was increased by the attempt, on the part of the emancipated
convicts, to make property the only qualification for acquiring civil and
political rights. ‘So strongly was the line of distinction drawn by the
free settlers at that time, that it remains unbroken to the present day,
and affects even the third and fourth generation. From the countenance
shown to the convicts by Governor Macquarie, their minds have
become impressed with the idea that the colony is intended for their
benefit; and they consider that they have the best right to administer
the government, while the free emigrants in their opinion are: inter-
fering with their rights, by occupying all places of emolument and
trust. Sufficient interest was excited by. the complaints of the free
emigrants to cause a commission of inquiry to be appointed. Much
good resulted from its action, and a settled policy was at length
adopted in relation to the treatment of the convicts.

Governor Macquarie was succeeded, in 1821, by Sir Thomas Bris-
bane, during whose administration all restrictions on the press were
removed. |

In 1824, by an act of Parliament, a Supreme Court was established,
having equity, common law, admiralty, and ecclesiastical jurisdiction.
Trial by jury was authorized under certain limitations, and the Legis-
lative Council instituted. This was a great improvement upon the
former system, and reduced the power of the Governor, which had
before been absolute, while it at the same time gave him the best
advisers.

The Legislative Council consisted of the Governor, with three civil

officers, and three gentlemen not holding ofice. The establishment of
s

206 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

this body was a step towards a constitutional form of government. It
continued in the original form, until, by an act of Parliament in 1828,
it was increased to not less than ten or more than fifteen members, all
of whom were appointed by the crown. At the same time an Execu-
tive Council was created, and in these two bodies the government of
the colony is still vested.

During the administration of Sir Thomas Brisbane and Sir Ralph
Darling, many improvements in policy took place. Among them were
inducements to free settlers, and many officers of the army and navy,
with other respectable persons, received grants of land. The acqui-
sition of a population of a better character furnished the means of
enforcing the laws, and removed the necessity of employing those who
had been guilty of crime, to effect its suppression. A better state of
things succeeded. Agriculture, and particularly the raising of herds
and flocks, were promoted by the facilities afforded by the government
under the assignment system; and the resources of the colony were
developed, particularly in the growth of wool, which has now become
its great staple. The success of these agricultural efforts, excited in
_ England, particularly among its manufacturers, a more direct interest
in the colony, and attracted much attention to it; in consequence of
which the Australian Agricultural Company, in which many influential
persons in England became interested, was incorporated under a royal!
charter. The avowed objects of this association were to further the ~
improvement of the cultivation of land in New South Wales, and the
rearing of cattle, horses, and fine-woolled sheep. The capital of the
Company was a million of pounds sterling, and government agreed to
grant in addition a million of acres of land, in any part of the territory
that might be selected.

The agent of the Company, Mr. Dawson, commenced operations in
1826, at Port Stephens, to the north of Hunter’s river, on a tract
selected by him and the surveyor-general; he continued to manage
their affairs until 1829, when, in consequence of a misunderstanding
between Mr. Dawson and the Company, growing out of the unavoida-
ble dithiculties he had to contend with, and the many misrepresenta-
tions made by his enemies, he was removed, and Sir Edward Parry,
the celebrated polar navigator, appointed in his stead.

Sir Edward Parry continued in the management until 1836, when
he retired, and was succeeded by Captain P. P. King, the able sur-
veyor, and who still conducts the affairs of the Company. I regretted
much not having been able to accept of the pressing invitation to visit
Captain King. It affords me great pleasure to bear testimony to the

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 207

correctness of his charts and sailing directions, which I have on seve-
ral occasions been called upon to verify and trust to in navigating the
squadron.

The difficulties encountered by Mr. Dawson, were chiefly owing
to the excessive droughts that occurred in the years 1827, 1828, and
1829. In these years there was in some districts an entire, and in
others a partial failure of the crops, while the pasture-grounds were
all dried up. :

At other times, continued rains would cause great floods; whole
districts of country were overflowed; and along the rivers, not only
stacks of grain, but the buildings, were swept away. From this it
may be easily understood what difficulties the settlers of this country
have to contend with. To these also are to be added the contests
between the two parties, as to whether this shall remain a penal
colony or become a free one.

It is only to be wondered that it should have continued to flourish,
notwithstanding all the impediments it has met with from misrule and
anarchy, growing out of a neglect to establish any well-combined
system of policy in its early stages. The governors, for want of any
positive enactments, were left free to adopt such measures as circum-
stances might dictate, and having their attention engrossed by the
difficulties with which they were continually surrounded, were com-
pelled to neglect the improvement of society, and took no pains to
frame prospective regulations for the well-being of the colony.

In 1831, Governor Darling was superseded by Sir Richard Bourke.
The country had, during the administration of his two predecessors,
improved rapidly by the aid of convict labour. When the latter gen-
tleman came into office, the policy of selling lands, instead of making
free grants, was adopted; this was considered an important change
for the colony.

The money arising from the sales of land was set apart by the home
government, to be applied to the immigration of free settlers ; but great
complaints have been made that this fund has been diverted from the
original object, or that a surplus remained in the government coffers
unexpended. Labour is, in consequence, in the greatest demand in
all parts of the colony, and the inconveniences of convict labour begin
to show themselves. From what I could understand, the assignment
system is getting into disrepute, and all the respectable settlers are
now turning their attention to the moral condition of the colony.
Strong representations have been made to the home government, and
an act has been passed, by which New South Wales is no longer to
be a penal settlement, and transportation thither is to cease. The

308 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

only points that are now used for this purpose are Moreton Bay and
Norfolk Island.

The principles upon which free grants are made, have been subject
to great fluctuation. In Governor Macquarie’s time, no grants to a
single individual could exceed one hundred and fifty acres. Many
of the difficulties and evils that resulted from these free grants, are
said to have grown out of his disposition (miscalled humane), which
led him to view the convicts as men in misfortune, rather than as the
outcasts of society.

His regulations in entering on his duties were explicit, “that a
convict should receive a grant of land only, when from good conduct
and a disposition to industry he should be found deserving of favour,
and of receiving emancipation.” In contradiction to the spirit of this
regulation, he made grants of land to any emancipated convicts, and
even appointed them to office as constables, &c. These emancipa-
tions were easily obtained, and transportation became, as has already
been stated, rather a reward than a punishment for crime. Instead
of bestowing his indulgences only on the deserving, a rule of action
which, if strictly carried into execution, would have been productive
of good, both to the rising community and the convicts themselves,
he dispensed his favours indiscriminately. He committed a double
error, when in addition he appointed them to office, thus placing
them over their companions in crime. Good could not be expected
to result from such a course, and the profusion with which land was
distributed among the whole class of emancipated convicts, whether
they had been set free before the expiration of their term for good
behaviour, or had served their time out, produced positive injury. —

During our siay at Sydney, a convict-ship arrived; and being
desirous of obtaining a view of her accommodations, and the mode of
treating the convicts, I visited her. This vessel was prepared expressly
for the purpose. Between decks, a strong grated barricade, well
spiked with iron, is built across the ship at the steerage bulkhead.
This affords the officers a free view of all that is going on among the
prisoners.

Bunks for sleeping are placed on each side all the way to the bow,
resembling those in a guard-room. Lach of these will accommodate
five persons. There is no outlet but through a door in the steerage
bulkhead, and this is always -guarded by a sentry. Light and air are
admitted through the hatches, which are well and strongly grated.
The guard is under the command of a sergeant, and is accommodated
in the steerage, the whole being under the orders of a surgeon, whose
duty it is to superintend and regulate every thing that relates to the

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 209

prisoners, inspect the ship daily, and administer punishment, even unto
death if necessary. The surgeon also has control over the master of
the vessel, and his regulations. The master and mates, on receiving
a certificate from the surgeon, are allowed a small sum for every
convict landed, in addition to their pay.

The criminals have prison fare, and are supplied with wooden-ware
for their eating utensils, which are kept in very nice order. The
quarter-deck is barricadoed near the main-mast, abaft of which all the
arms and accoutrements of the guard and vessel are kept. The
master and officers are usually lodged in the poop-cabin. ‘The pri-
soners are habituated to the discipline of the ship, on board the hulks,
before leaving England. The usual, and most effectual, punishment
for misbehaviour is to place the culprit in a narrow box on deck, in
which he is compelled to stand erect. This punishment is said to be
effectual in reducing the most refractory male convicts to order, but °
it was not found so efficacious in the female convict-ship; for, when
put in the box, they would baw! so loudly, and use their tongues so
freely, that it was found necessary to increase the punishment by
placing a cistern of water on the top of the box. This was turned
over upon those who persist in using their tongues, and acted on the
occupant as a shower-bath, the cooling effect of which was always and
quickly efficacious in quieting them. I was informed that more than
two such showers were never required to subdue the most turbulent.

I was struck with the ruddy, healthy, and athletic looks of the
young convicts that were arriving, and from their deportment and
countenances |] should hardly have been inclined to believe that they
had been the perpetrators of heinous crimes.

I am not at all surprised that many of the settlers of the colony
should be opposed to the change in the assignment system; for when
such a fine body of men is seen, the reason is easily understood, as the
possession of such strong and hale persons to all intents and purposes
as slaves, and at the expense of their maintenance alone, must be very
lucrative to those requiring labourers. I am, on the other hand, at a
loss to conceive how the assignment system can be looked upon in any
other light than as a great evil, which must be abolished if it be
designed to make the inhabitants of New South Wales a moral
community, and to reform the convicts. It acts most unequally on the
parties, and is a barrier to the reformation that the punishment of
transportation is intended to effect.

The convicts on arriving are sent to the barracks at Sydney. The
government selects from them such mechanics as are required for the

public service, and then the numerous applicants for labourers are
VOL. Il. ee 27

210 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

supplied. Those assigned to private employers, are sent to the interior
under the charge of a constable or overseer.

They build their own huts, and the climate being very fine, require
but little shelter. ‘The hours of labour are from six to six, and the
quantity of labour exacted from them is about two-thirds of what
would be required in England. They are treated in all respects as if
they were free, and no restraint is imposed, except that they cannot
leave their masters, who, when they have no further use for them,
return them to the government to be reassigned.

When on ticket of leave, they may reside in any place they choose
to select.

The convict’s time of probation depends upon the original term of
his sentence ; but on a commission of crime within the colony, it begins
from his last conviction. For refractory conduct, they may be taken
‘to the nearest magistrate, who orders punishment on the oath of the
master. The magistrate has also power to send them to the nearest
chain-gang employed on public works. Here they are worked in
irons, and kept on scanty food for a limited period, after which they
may be returned to their masters. If badly treated, the convict may
have the affair investigated, but redress comes slowly.

One of the great evils of the system is, that many of the convicts
on arriving are assigned to persons in Sydney and other towns, the
consequence of which is that they are exposed to the contaminations
and temptations that are likely to beset them in those thickly-peopled
places, and this too only a few months after their conviction in the
mother country. This influence removes all hopes of reform, and they
are usually soon found among the criminals of New South Wales.

All persons who are landholders may receive convicts as assigned
servants, in the proportion of one to every three hundred and twenty
acres, but no one proprietor can have in his employ more than seventy-
five convicts.

Written application for labourers is made to the Board of Assignment,
and the applicants must bind themselves to keep the assigned convict
for at least one month, and to furnish him with food and clothing
agreeably to the government regulations, which are as follows, viz. :

The weekly rations consist of twelve pounds of wheat, or nine
pounds of seconds flour; or, in lieu thereof, at the discretion of the
master, three pounds of maize meal, and nine pounds of wheat, or
seven pounds of seconds flour; with seven pounds of beef or mutton,
and four pounds of corned pork, two ounces of salt, and two ounces
of soap. }

The clothing for a year is as follows, viz.: two frocks or jackets,

OF NEW SOUTH WALKS. Q11

three shirts, of strong linen or cotton, two pairs of trousers, three pairs
of shoes, of stout durable leather, one hat or cap, and the use of a good
blanket and mattrass belonging to the master.

Custom, however, has extended the above allowances, and the
quantity of luxuries added in tobacco, sugar, tea, and grog, makes
the amount nearly double. These additions have become absolutely
necessary in order to procure work from the convicts, and the free
supply of them is the only way in which they can be made to work
in the harvest season. I was informed that a settler considered it all-
important to have a large stock of these luxuries on hand at the season
of pressure; for although the assigned servants do not actually refuse
to work, they do so little, that, in order to save his crop, the master
must yield them the extra indulgences.

Another evil attendant on the assignment system is the difference in
the treatment they receive from those to whom they are assigned.
On the arrival of a convict-ship, a large number of persons who have
made applications to the Board, are in waiting; they of course know
nothing of the character of the convicts, and, as I learned from a good
source, no record is kept, or sent with the convicts themselves. The
Board is entirely ignorant of their character or crimes, and thus cau
exercise no discrimination in assigning the convict to the hands of a
good or of a hard master. The greatest villains may, therefore, fall
into kind hands, while one who is comparatively innocent may suffer
much more than he deserves.

The punishment of transportation must continue very unequal until
a classification be resorted to. Many convicts, by bad treatment, are
confirmed in their vices.

For any misbehaviour, they are, as has been seen, subject to severe
castigation upon their master’s making oath before a magistrate. This
not unfrequently drives the culprit or convict to further crime, and in
revenge for these wrongs, he either neglects his master’s interest, or
has been known to set fire to his harvest when gathered.

The present system appears fitted to entail evil and misery on the
colony, and there are few disinterested men who do not view it as
calculated to prevent any moral improvement. Murders, robberies,
and frauds are brought about by it, for which extreme punishments
are of such frequent occurrence that it is a matter of astonishment
that a stranger should remark that an execution had taken place.
The day before our arrival five criminals had been hung, and more
were to suffer in a few days.

These executions take place without causing any unusual excite-
ment. There is little doubt that the convict population contains

212 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC.,

among its members many of the most abandoned wretches, and | am
also aware that the Governor and Council are making every exertion
to put a stop to the immorality and vice which so generally prevail ;
yet I am satisfied that the convicts who are assigned are, in some
cases, goaded on to crime by the treatment they receive from their
masters, who hold them as slaves, and degrade them to the level of the
beast with whom they are forced to labour.

Although Great Britain has a right to assume a proud pre-eminence
in her exertions to emancipate the blacks, yet it behooves her to look
to her penal settlements, and examine into the tyranny and degradation
that a large number of her subjects are suffering there, many of them
for slight crimes. :

Few except those who have visited this colony can be aware of the
extent to which the lash is administered, and oftentimes on the mere
pretence of unruly and bad behaviour to their masters, or for the most
trivial offences. So many facts of this sort were stated to me by
persons in office, and of the highest respectability, that there cannot be
a doubt of their correctness. The following extract from a report of
the Committee of Transportation in 1835 will show it in its true light.

“In 1835, the number of convicts in the colony of New South
Wales was above twenty-eight thousand, and the summary convic-
tions in that year were estimated at twenty-two thousand. In one
month in 1833, two hundred and forty-seven convicts were flogged, and
nine thousand seven hundred and eighty-four lashes inflicted, which |
would make for the whole year two thousand nine hundred and sixty-
four floggings, and about one hundred and eight thousand lashes.
This amount does not embrace one-third of the convicts convicted
summarily, but only those sentenced to be flogged, and there yet
remain those to be added who were sentenced to other degrees of
punishment : male convicts to the iron-gangs and treadmill, and females
to the solitary cells of the factory.”

The inquiries that I made in relation to the native-born inhabitants,
were universally answered by all in favour both of their morals and
habits. Judge Burton bears testimony that the free immigrants and
native colonists are as exempt from the commission of crime as the
inhabitants of any other country.

The defect in the female assignments is equally obvious. They are
assigned only to married settlers who are considered respectable. They
are accompanied by their children from the mother country, but imme-
diately upon arriving the assignment takes place, and as the party to
whom the convict is assigned does not wish to be encumbered with her
offspring, they are at once separated. The child is not unfrequently

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. Dili

removed from the mother when at the breast, and taken to the factory
at Paramatta, where convicts’ children are nursed and brought up.
The mother is thus severed from her progeny for months, and, perhaps,
fer ever. The scenes that occur at these separations are often heart-
rending, and ought to condemn the whole system. ‘The feelings of the
poor creatures may be more readily conceived than described.

Connected with the convict system, are the convict prisons, where
the road and iron-gangs are lodged for safe keeping. ‘There is one on
the hill at Sydney, which, like most of the buildings at Sydney, bears
the name of Governor Macquarie, 1817. In it are shown the guard-
room, the working and eating-rooms, and dormitories, all of which are
well ventilated. The prisoners sleep in hammocks, swung from
parallel bars a few feet above the floor. A whipping-post was shown
in an adjoining yard. ‘The older prisoners are kept at work making
brooms.

The female convicts who do not conduct themselves well, are sent
back to the factory at Paramatta, where they are engaged in prison
labour. The practice of keeping them in great numbers there, after
they have-been sent back, is liable to many objections, and is not
calculated to produce reformation. It is very questionable whether
their employment in small parties would not have a greater tendency
to produce the desired reform.

The factory at Paramatta is situated on the river, about half a mile
from the centre of the town, near the place where the steamboats stop.
It is a large stone building, enclosed with high walls, and usually con-
tains one thousand inmates. A part of these are those female convicts
who have not yet been assigned; and the rest, those who have been
remanded for their refractory conduct. Many of the settlers have, from
necessity, taken these females into their service, and have been quite
glad to get rid of them; for their corrupting influence had often
resulted in the total ruin of the male servants who had been assigned in
the same family.

It is only lately that good order has been introduced into this esta-
blishment, and this is owing to the supervision and care of Sir George
Gipps. The accounts of the disorder in it in former times are truly
disgusting.

These females are now divided into three classes, according to their
ability and behaviour, of which the latter is more especially attended
to. The first class is employed in making linen clothing, such as
shirts, children’s clothes, &c., and do much work for the shop-keepers
in Sydney. The second, in making up coarse articles of apparel for

214 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

government, and shop-keepers; the third, in picking oakum, washing
for the establishment, and plaiting straw.

It would be difficult to imagine a more hideous community; and
those who visited this establishment could scarcely realize the possi-
bility that Great Britain could have produced such an assemblage of
ugly creatures. It is hardly conceivable that the feminine character
could ever have existed under faces, in which all traces of gentle
expression have long since been annihilated, and where the countenance
now indicates only the prevalence of the baser passions.

Some of the rooms were crowded, the inmates sitting on two rows
of benches. Upon our entrance they discontinued their occupations,
and saluted us with disgusting leering faces, staring at us with a
malignity and hatred that were not soon forgotten.

The rooms appeared well ventilated, and scrupulously clean. I
wish I could say as much for the prisoners themselves: they were dirty
and slovenly in their appearance, and were clothed in a coarse drug-
get gown, a cap and neckerchief of cotton.

The discipline is very strict, and maintained by a person who at
one time was the most unmanageable convict they ever had confined
there. She now holds the place of matron, and has the management
of the females, under the supervision of Mr. Bell, who is the superin-
tendent of the whole establishment.

Until she was appointed, no sort of order was maintained. We
understood that her conduct has been excellent since she filled the
place. She is a tall masculine woman, of some intelligence, and has
a watchfulness of manner that shows she is an adept at her busi-
ness. She told us that the punishment for misconduct was solitary
confinement, on bread and water, and for smaller misdemeanours,
working at the crank of the pumps which supply the establishment
with water.

The children are in a room by themselves, and there are about one
hundred of them, from the infant to the child of seven or eight years
of age. They all looked healthy, were very playful, and appeared to
be well taken care of. There are twenty nurses who attend to them.
It gave us much pleasure, when the matron entered with us, to see
them all come running up to her, demonstrating her kind treatment of
them, and the affection they bear her.

To Mr. Bell, the superintendent, we were much indebted for his
civility. He appeared well qualified for the management of so ex-
tensive and difficult a concern. He explained every thing to us,
answering the numerous questions put to him with great pleasure and

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 215

politeness. This visit was particularly gratifying, as affording a view
of one of the most important features of this great penal establishment.

Around Paramatta and Sydney, another such feature is to be seen
in the iron-gangs. These consist of the men who have not been
assigned, and likewise of all those who are returned by their masters.
They are met with upon the roads, working in pairs, chained together.
Their dress is peculiar, and they, in consequence, cannot readily
escape detection in case of absconding. On the back of the jacket is
marked, in conspicuous letters, “ chain-gang.” They wear a canvass
jacket and trousers, and a jockey-cap. They were a rough-looking
set, with bad countenances, and, like all other prisoners, stared us
broadly in the face. Sentinels or guards constantly accompanied
them.

The English are very partial to this mode of treating criminals,
and cannot be persuaded that any better course can be devised; yet it
is attended with obvious evils.

For a trifling and first offence, a perpetual brand of infamy is set
upon a fellow-mortal, his family, and connexions. The natural con-
sequence has been to foster and keep alive a public opinion which
tends to the disorganization of society, and to obliterate all that re-
mains of principle in the criminal.

The convict who has just arrived, is regarded by the others as a
simpleton and a mere novice; and they undertake to complete his
education.

The exploits and crimes performed and committed by these hard-
ened offenders in Australia, New Zealand, and the islands of Poly-
nesia, exhibit a dark picture; and the annoyance thus inflicted upon
their inhabitants would not be borne, had they the strength to resist it.
Power is the only right that can be urged by Great Britain as a justi-
fication of this infliction, and that it would be useless to question.

The majority of convicts are either assigned servants or ticket-of-
leave men, and their condition is not unlike that of the slaves in our
Southern States. They form a distinct class, and may be considered
as the original groundwork of the colony. At present they constitute
about a third of the population, but when transportation ceases, their
relative numbers will rapidly decrease.

This colony, take it all in all, is in spite of these drawbacks a noble
one, and is a new proof of the superiority of the Anglo-Saxon race,
and of its enterprise and perseverance in overcoming difficulties.

I understood that Sir George Gipps had determined to adopt Captain

Maconochie’s system in the management of the road-gangs, and shall
therefore proceed to examine it.

216 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

Captain Maconochie’s argument for the necessity of a change is
founded on the admitted fact, that the example of severe suffering on
the conviction of crime, has not hitherto been found effective in pre-
venting its recurrence. He maintains that the sole and direct object
of secondary punishments should be the reformation of the individual
culprit, or at all events his subjugation, and his training to self-com-
mand, by the latter of which he may give satisfactory proof that he
deserves a restoration to his privileges in society. He does not pro-
scribe punishment, but on the contrary believes it indispensable to
induce penitence and submission; he regards it as necessary as a
deterring example, and not for a vindictive end.

An entire reform, or a self-control tantamount to it, can, in his
opinion, be obtained only by specific punishments for the past, and by
a training for the future. To effect this latter he proposes to group
prisoners together in associations, made to resemble those of common
life as closely as possible, subdividing them into small parties or
families, as may be agreed on among themselves, with common
interest; that they shall receive wages in the form of marks of com-
mendation, which they may exchange at will for immediate gratifi-
cations, but of which a fixed accumulation should be required before
receiving freedom. He thus hopes to prepare them for society in
society, giving them a field for the exercise and cultivation of social
virtues, as well as for the voluntary restraint of vices.

Captain Maconochie deems the union of punishment for the past,
with training for the future, as totally incompatible with each other,
and, therefore, thinks that the former must in all cases precede the
latter, and be effectual of itself. He argues, that success in medical
treatment by beginning to administer restoratives before the disease
is eradicated, might as well be expected as reform while punishment
is undergone; and that it is just as necessary to prepare for society in
society, as to train man by a preliminary education to the useful
employments of life; that it seems idle to expect that mere theoretical
instruction, however strongly enforced by short but severe suffering,
should be sufficient to enable persons advanced in life to guide their
future conduct, as it would be to hope to teach a trade, or any other
practical employment, by abstract rules; and that moral lessons, to be
taught profitably, require a field of progressive experimental applica-
tion just as much as engineering.

On these elementary principles Captain Maconochie founds his plan
of convict management, to which he applies the name of “Social
System,” and trusts for its success to the application of moral force in
the place of physical coercion. He considers that hitherto the reform

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 217

of culprits has not been thought the principal object in regulating their
treatment.

The object of deterring from the commission of crime has been the
duty of the law for the protection of society, and the association of
prisoners has been deemed morally hurtful to them.

The Social System proposes to change this course to one in fact
directly opposite to it. In criminal administration, according to his
views, society is at present placed in one scale, and the culprit in the
other, and it is not surprising that the weight of the former should
predominate.

He proposes, that the nature of the punishment should be severe and
short; that it ‘should melt into probation, and this again into entire
freedom, by changes as gradual as possible; thus taking nature as the
guide, and copying what occurs on any severe misfortune befalling us,
at first overwhelming grief, then a retrospective one, which afterwards
slowly gives place to hope and encouragement.

To carry this out, it would be necessary to have solitary impri-
sonment, with moral and religious exhortations inculcated during
sequestration from external influences, with permission to work, and
instructions in its performance, but without the power of exchanging
the proceeds for indulgences; next, separate imprisonment, with the
power of exchanging marks of good conduct for gratifications, to be
prolonged until the accumulation of a certain number of marks over
and above all those exchanged for indulgences, should exhibit the
acquisition of habits of self-control.

To this second stage should succeed social labour through the day,
with separate confinement at night, and at length a complete admission
to a society, in which the convicts should choose their associates, and
be mutually responsible for the good behaviour of each other.

In passing through such a course of discipline, both of the ends
which have been spoken of will be attained. The guilty will be first
punished, and afterwards rendered fit for society by reformation and
training, and will be thus restored to that state in which he was before
he committed the crime, after he has been well tried and found worthy
of being re-established in it.

As far as I could understand, Captain Maconochie was not prepared
to prescribe the exact manner in which his views were to be carried
out, and did not appear to set much value upon the mode, provided his
principles were kept in view. He was of opinion that the principal
error in modern penal science is the importance attached to physical
arrangement in the construction of prisons.

According to him, the less stress that is set upon them the better,

VOL. II. = 28

218 HISTORY, GOVERNTMENT, ETC,

for it is not the body alone that is to be kept captive, but the will also;
and the more care that is taken to guard the former, the less can the
latter be attended to.

The peculiar trait in the Social System is, that after punishment
every culprit’s lot would be in his own hands. His companions would
be of his own choice, and the length of his detention and comfort
would depend upon the conduct of himself and his associates.

In seeking the reformation of the culprit, the mutual action of
companions on each other would be resorted to, and this would be
productive of great advantages. No system could be more just; and
its language to the criminal would be,—“ Having made you pay the
penalty for your crime, I now retain you until you are qualified to
meet the requisitions of society on your return to it, that you may not
fail as you have before done.”

The results of this svstem could not but be far different from the
plans in present use, which have reference only to crime and retribu-
tion, and may be considered useless in promoting reformation. I
understood that Sir George Gipps had already partially and success-
fully adopted the Social System with the convicts in government
employ, by associating them in bands of ten to twenty, and letting
them work on the public roads. Some of them were pointed out to
me, and in point of appearance were as orderly and cheerful as any
free labourers. I was informed that they do more work than when
watched by overseers oF soldiers.

I saw, however, many iron-gangs, but was informed that they were
composed of individuals who had committed offences in the colony.
After the commission of several crimes in the colony, they are again
transported, to Norfolk Island, where Captain Maconochie is stationed ;
and it may well excite surprise if he should succeed in reforming these
double-refined villains.

Many circumstances have been told me, by those who are well
acquainted with the facts, that such is their detestation of Norfolk
Island, and their horror of remaining there, that convicts have drawn
lots to commit crimes, and even murder, in order to be sent back to
Sydney for trial.*

Captain Maconochie’s system is looked upon by many as Utopian,
and it has excited no little astonishment that any one should conceive
the idea of affording to criminals the refined amusements of society,
or that books, music, &c., should be furnished them.

I have given this short sketch of the Social System in order to show

* It is the intention of the government to erect on Norfolk Island a penitentiary, on the
plan of that at Sing Sing, in the State of New York. The estimated cost was £200,990.

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 219

its general plan. For a more full account of it, I would refer to
Captain Maconochie’s papers, published at different times. I spent
several agreeable hours with him; and am satisfied that with the well-
educated description of criminals, and with those who may have
friends to return to, it will probably answer; but I am disposed to
think that the great objection lies in the feelings of society, and its
reluctance to readmit its outcasts on any terms, much less place them
on a footing of equality.

There are two forms of social management proposed, one by
Captain Maconochie, the other by Lord Howick: the former has been
sufficiently explained; the latter includes both punishment and train-
ing in the insular penitentiaries, from which release may be complete,
or merely through the medium of a ticket-of-leave in the colonies.

The latter form I believe is that which has been adopted, and from
what I learn, it seems to be succeeding, although I have not been
informed that any public account has yet been given of it. The
system is about being adopted in Van Diemen’s Land, which is a
convincing proof that government has become somewhat satisfied
with its efficacy; and it is noticed in one of the late Gazettes, that
Captain Maconochie had treated his prisoners, on the Queen’s birth-
day (with the approbation of the government), to a play and punch;
which is a proof that some had already reached the probationary state.

The ration of the soldiers in New South Wales consists of one
pound of meat, one pound of bread, two-thirds of a pint of rum, and
an allowance of five-pence for small stores, consisting of salt, sugar,
tea, &c. They receive as pay eight-pence per day, and are obliged
to serve twenty years before they can claim their discharge.

The convict gets one pound of bread, one pound and a quarter of
meat, and one pint of meal. Indeed, there is very little difference in
the condition of a soldier and a convict, and were it not for the name,
one would be almost induced to prefer the situation of the latter.

There is a description of convicts, as has been mentioned, known
under the title of ticket-of-leave men. These, from good behaviour
before the expiration of their term of sentence, are permitted to hire
themselves out, upon the employer entering into a stipulation to main-
tain a strict watch over them. ‘This custom has no doubt been forced
upon the community by the want of servants, and the necessity of
obtaining them. The action of this part of the system will be shown
more clearly by the following anecdote.

One day, passing along George Street with a friend, my attention
was called to a fashionable equipage, with a well-dressed man driving
i On my asking to whom it belonged, I was informed that the person

22() HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

driving it was the owner, and that although a ticket-of-leave man, he
was married to a free woman of handsome fortune, living in one of
‘he finest houses in Sydney; that their house was built on the very
spot where he stood under the gallows some years since, although
through a reprieve, or some accident, he had not been hung; and that
it was at any time within the power of the wife to send him off to the
whipping-post, and have him severely flogged. ‘There are many.
convicts who are now the most wealthy people of New South Wales.
I do not intend to be understood that they mix at all in the society of
the better class; on the contrary, the convicts and their descendants,
even to the third and fourth generation, are excluded from it.

Society here is composed of many distinct circles. All those of the
first class are entitled to be received at the Government House, or are
invited there. This privilege seems at present to be the touchstone of
gentility; and if an inquiry is now made of the standing of any one, it
is quite sufficient to say he visits at the Government House.

Any connexion with convicts would at once preclude admission to
this circle ; and so distinctly has this line been drawn, and so closely
is it adhered to, that should an officer, or other person, contract
marriage ties with any one of the lower classes, he would forthwith
be shut out. ‘This state of things naturally leads to many heartburnings
among the rising generation, who have every thing to recommend
them but a pure descent; whose behaviour is acknowledged by all to
be irreproachable, and who among the community stand deservedly
very high, some of them occupying posts of high trust and responsibility
among men of business, and not a few of them being at the head of
large moneyed institutions.

These differences frequently break out when subscription balls are
given, and result in challenges being sent to the managers. One oc-
curred on the giving of the St. Patrick’s ball. A Mr. D. was admitted
as a subscriber by the committee; he afterwards asked for a ticket for
a friend of his, which was refused. Objections were then taken to
himself, and he was requested to withdraw his name, and receive back
his money. ‘This brought forth a challenge, which was disposed of in
a summary manner by the committee handing him over to the police,
by which he was obliged to apologize to the committee, and bound
over to keep the peace. I cannot but believe that this state of society
is destined in a very short time to undergo a great change; and many
of the inhabitants seem to be of the same opinion, particularly if they
obtain a colonial legislature. ‘This it seems almost indispensable they
should have, for the wishes and wants of the rising community are too
little known and heeded, at the distance of sixteen thousand miles, to

OF NEW SOUTH WALES, 921

insure good government; and the acts and the varying policy of the
mother country are so ill adapted to the state of things here, as to
strike the most common observers, and only tend to loosen the ties of
affection that bind the colonists to it.

The introduction of free emigration, and the discontinuance of the
use of the colony as a penal settlement, must soon produce the necessity
of legislative bodies, and the elections will give the wealthy part of the
citizens, emancipists and their descendants, a powerful voice in those
bodies when constituted, which will finally lead to their amalgamation
with the higher classes. I was surprised to find among the emancipists
themselves the same distinctions kept up.

The labouring class of free emigrants form another class. ‘They
have great difficulties to contend with on their landing. As few of
them will consent to serve as domestics in association with ticket-of-
leave men or convicts, they find themselves placed in many difficult
situations. ‘They are compelled to resort to the public inns kept by
these people, who endeavour to take every advantage of them, and
cause them to part with what little amount they may have brought
with them from the mother country. They soon become destitute, and
from disappointment betake themselves to all the vices of the convict
class. Some steps have been taken to provide for the emigrants on
their first arrival, under the government system ; but they have not yet
been carried into effect, and it is difficult to enforce them.

There is yet another class, and one, as far as my experience goes,
now unknown elsewhere, which sets at defiance both law and regula-
tions. I mean a class known here by the name of “ Crimps,” who are
a pest to the trade of the port, and the destruction of all the sailors
who visit it. Their trade or employment may be summed up in a
few words: it is to entice or kidnap sailors from their ships, and keep
them drunk and concealed in some out-of-the-way place. Whole
crews of merchantmen are frequently carried off by these fellows, and
they are in consequence at times detained until the master or assignee
resorts to the agents of these crimps, who are ready to give them
a crew at four or five guineas for each sailor. I was told, a few
days after my arrival, that the crimps had determined to get some of
the men of the squadron; and they succeeded in enticing away the
crew of the tender Flying-Fish and three or four other men belonging
to the ships. The vigilance and system of these crimps bid defiance
to the laws and police, who although quite aware of the existence
of the evil, find it out of their power to puta stop to it. Since my
departure, the shipping interests have memorialized the Government

and Council, and there is a prospect that this nuisance will be abated.
T2

222 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

As respects the higher class of society, it is in all respects the same
as is met with in England and America, among well-educated persons.
Perhaps as to fashion it is a little more colonial, but not more so than
the distance from whence fashions originate would account for. The
cordial welcome and hospitality we met with could not be surpassed
any where.

The Governor is appointed by letters patent, under the great seal
of the United Kingdom; but he acts under the direction of the
legislature.

The Legislative Council consists of a number not exceeding fifteen,
and not less than ten; the members are appointed by the King, and
are all residents within the colony.

The Governor is president of this council, and is entitled to vote as
a member upon all questions; when it is equally divided, he has an
additional or casting vote. ‘To the Governor and Council is delegated
the power to make laws for the peace, welfare, and good government
of the colony, not repugnant to any act, charter, é&c., which may have
been issued, or to the laws of England; and no law or ordinance can
be passed, unless first laid before the Council by the Governor.

The Governor is, by statute, invested with the right of property in
the services of offenders or convicts who have been transported, and
he may assign this right to others. He is captain-general and
governor-in-chief, and has full control over all the military and civil
authorities. He is empowered, and required, to administer oaths to
the Chief Justice, and the members of the Executive Council; to keep
the public seal; and is invested with authority to suspend members of
the Executive Council, and to supply their place, as well as to appoint
temporary members to fill vacancies.

He appoints all justices of the peace, coroners, constables, and other
necessary officers.

He has the power to grant pardons, reprieves, &c., and to remit
punishments for offences, treason, or wilful murder, only excepted ;
for which upon extraordinary occasions, he can reprieve until the
pleasure of the crown be known. His power to shorten the time of
transportation is limited, by the condition that all instruments in writing
for that purpose are to be approved by the crown.

With the advice of the Executive Council, he is empowered to divide
the territory, and its dependencies, into districts, counties, towns, &c.,
to fortify and erect forts, and provide for the defence of the country.

All public moneys are issued for the support of the government

by warrant from the Governor, but only for purposes particularly
pointed out.

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 293

He may give titles to crown lands. He has also power to appoint
fairs, marts, markets, ports, harbours, bays, and havens.

The person who succeeds, in case of the death or absence of the
Governor, is the Lieutenant-Governor, and next to him, the Commander
of the Forces.

The Executive Council consists of four persons holding office in the
colony

1st. The senior officer of the Forces. 2d. The Bishop of Australia.
3d. The Colonial Secretary of New South Wales; and 4th, the Colo-
nial Treasurer : the two latter for the time being. These are appointed
by letters patent, under the great seal. It is a council of advice and
restraint, and-the matters on which they are to be consulted are
especially mentioned in their commission.

The Legislative Council consists of fifteen persons, including the
Governor, seven of whom hold offices under the government, and
during royal pleasure, viz. :

Ist. Chief Justice. 2d. Bishop of Australia. 3d. The Commander
of the Forces. 4th. The Colonial Secretary. 5th. The Attorney-
General. 6th. The Collector of the Customs. 7th. The Auditor-
General; with seven others who do not hold offices, but are nominated
by the crown.

As is truly said in the colony, they are governed by the royal pre-
1ogative, exercised in the person of the Governor.

The rules for his guidance, and that of all colonial officers, are
issued by the Secretary of State, and are to be found in a pamphlet
form, under the title of “Colonial Rules and Regulations.” Great
complaints are made in the colony that these are altogether one-
sided. In them it is notified that the appointment or term of the
Governor’s office is limited to a period of six years, from the time of
his assumption of his duties; the crown reserving the power of pro-
longing that period.

The great complaint in the colony is, that the policy of the govern-
ment at home is always fluctuating with the change of the incumbent
who holds the office of Secretary of State. This happens with every
change in political parties in the mother country, and the office is often
held by persons who have very little knowledge or experience in colo-
nial affairs, and consequently regulations are from time to time issued,
and particular orders for the guidance of the Governor are frequently
sent him, which leaves him little or no independence in the perform-
ance of his duties.

At the distance at which New South Wales is situated, it may
readily be conceived what inconvenience is felt by the Governor and

Q24 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

Council in carrying out what they deem best for the interests of the
colony. ‘They have no power or control over the revenue, which in
reality is under the supervision and direction of the Lords Commis-
sioners of her Majesty’s treasury.

The Governor is not allowed to expend any sum over £200 for any
one service, (unless under very urgent circumstances,) without the
previous sanction of the home government; and although at liberty to
draw that amount, it is on his own responsibility ; he must account for
it, and show the absolute necessity for its use.

The estimates for the ensuing year are made in June, and forwarded
for approval. The expenditure must be limited by this estimate, and
no further disbursements applied for on account of that year, unless
under circumstances entirely unforeseen.

The estimate, after undergoing the supervision of the colonial legis-
lative body, must also undergo the scrutiny of the commissioners of
the treasury officers, before any instructions are given by the Secretary
of State.

The estimates for taxation follow the same course, and the Council
has no control over the funds arising from the property or droits of the
crown.

The Governor, in transmitting his accounts for audit, sends them
accompanied by certified copies of all estimates of expenditures to
which the accounts relate, and of all ordinances for the imposition of
taxes, with copies of the despatches sent him by the Secretary of
State, conveying the sentiments of her Majesty’s government upon
them; and it is required that full detailed statements of the revenue and
expenditures of the colony be published in the Colonial Gazette imme-
diately after the accounts are transmitted.

These are some of the regulations, which will tend to show how
great is the authority still retained by the crown, or in reality by the
ministers, and how little discretionary power the Governor has. He
is required personally to superintend or authorize things of such small
concern that it almost approaches the ridiculous ; for instance, a wheel-
barrow cannot be mended without an order in writing attested by his
signature. Such an order may be necessary, but one would think that
other persons might be authorized and trusted to’ perform such acts.
The colony is treated as though it were a den of rogues, and required
the constant supervision of the ministry at home. I was told that no
one could conceive the mass of despatches containing instructions that
a single year produced, and these are often found conflicting with those
that had gone before, and thus require a reference back to the Secre-
tary of State. The practical inconvenience is apparent, and it is not

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 995

surprising that it should excite the ridicule as well as disgust of all
thinking men in the colony, to see the attempt to govern the affairs of
this rising state by the royal prerogative, exercised by one of her
Majesty’s principal secretaries of state, in despatches to a governor,
whose recommendations are usually adopted, thus making him, at least
in part, his own instructer. When the time necessary to pass these
communications, which is at least eight months, is considered, there
appears great reason for reform, and it is not surprising that the think-
ing part of the population are very urgent for it.

The high and confidential officer of the crown, which the Governor
really is, is looked upon as the mere agent of the ministry at home.

The community do not feel themselves at all protected by the Legis-
lative Council, although they have, apparently, a voice in its proceed-
ings; as its members are composed, to the extent of one half, of persons
who do not hold office. In practice, it is not found that this amounts
to a check; for on all government questions the members who hold
office will be present, and therefore vote in their full strength; while
the members of the people, appointed from the most respectable land-
holders by the crown, do not take sufficient interest in the proceedings
to give that punctual attendance that might be required for the interest
of those whom they are intended to represent. But even if all were
present, the Governor, with his two votes, would always decide the
matter in favour of the government; and as before stated, no new law
can be considered in council, unless prepared by the Governor, which
must effectually prevent any innovations being brought forward by
those who represent the interest of the inhabitants of the colony. The
only power they have is a negative one: that of entering their protest,
and having it sent home for consideration by her Majesty’s ministers ;
but in such case there is little likelihood of its meeting with favour.
The official members, on the other hand, are considered as bound to
support the Governor or to lose their seats and offices, notwithstanding
their oaths faithfully to advise, to the best of their ability and judgment,
the government of the colony.

The principal check on the Governor and his Council is the public
press, whose conductors are strenuous advocates for reform and colo-
nial rights, and exhibit much ability.

The statute of New South Wales expired in 1889, when it was
renewed for a year, and has subsequently been renewed from year to
year until the present time (1840). So evident, however, were the
defects in the administration, that a clause was added to the act of

renewal, declaring that the statute was deemed in many respects
VOL, II. 29

226 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

inapplicable to the circumstances of the colony and the wants of the
inhabitants.

It was made lawful for the colonial legislature to enact any laws or
ordinances, subject to the provisions of the statute, for the better
administration of justice, and to define the constitution of the courts
of law, equity, and juries. This conclusively proves that great difh-
culty is experienced in governing these rising colonies, and in giving
that attention to their wants that they demand; yet Great Britain still
manifests a strong desire to retain her control over these subjects, and
does not see the necessity of letting them stand alone, and being
allowed to feel that they are able to take care of themselves.*

Petitions have been sent home to Parliament and to the Queen
praying for the formation of a new constitution, such as they could
place confidence in, and in which the people of the colony might be
represented. ‘The model of the constitution that they desire is that
of the Canadas, and the expectation is that by the great influx of free
emigrants, the day will soon arrive when it will be vouchsafed to them.

From the reports of a committee of the Legislative Council of this
colony, it is shown that by offering bounties, immigration may be more
economically conducted than by the government system. The report
states, that during the year 1838 there arrived in the colony seven
thousand one hundred and eighty individuals, (exclusive of convicts,)
of whom one thousand six hundred and sixty-two made a claim for
bounty. In the latter six months of the year 1839, six thousand
arrived. The total arrivals from January, 1837, to the end of Sep-
tember, 1839, were sixteen thousand four hundred: by government
ships, eight thousand four hundred and eighty-five; by the aid of
bounty, four thousand two hundred and sixty-six; unassisted, three
thousand six hundred and forty-nine. The amount of bounty to the
four thousand two hundred and sixty-six who were introduced by
private enterprise, was sixty-five thousand five hundred and eighty-six
pounds,—at the rate of fifteen pounds six shillings each; while the cost
of introducing eight thousand seven hundred and twenty-one persons
by the government system, was one hundred and sixty-eight thousand
seven hundred and seventy-five pounds, showing an increase of cost
of thirty-seven thousand six hundred and thirty pounds to the colony
by the government system.t This subject engrosses the attention of

* The Legislative Council has agreed to take upon the colony the charge of defraying
the expenses of the police and jail out of the revenue. This has also caused much dis-
satisfaction. .

+ Many curious developements have taken place relative to the colony of South Australia,
which was established upon the principles of self:support, having been carried out; no colony

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 2LL7|

all, now that the transportation, and consequently the assignment
system, is to cease. They are desirous of securing workmen and
servants, and every exertion is to be made to that end.

There is now a great influx of all kinds of people into this colony,
from the capitalist to the labouring man. The colony offers advan-
tages to all of these, but in a very different proportion. There is no
country where provisions and the actual necessaries of life are as
high as here, and this particularly affects the poor man, for although
he receives high wages his expenses are proportionately great. He
will therefore be disappointed, if he calculates upon making great
savings. On the other hand, the capitalist may at once enter the
market and invest his money profitably, and from all that I could
learn, securely. Money, however, according to several intelligent
and well-informed persons, commanded more than its value; or, in
other words, the rate of interest is too high to be sustained. This
was in part attributed to the improvements going on, partly for specu-
lating purposes, but generally as permanent investments, the result of
profits in business. Money is in fact the best merchandise to carry to
New South Wales.

The poor labouring man, if he be sober and industrious, will soon
acquire the means of support for himself and family, but he must
carefully avoid the contamination to which he will be subject, and
avoid improper associates. ‘There is no place where he will be so
much led into temptation as here. For the middle class—those who
have a small income and do not work—there is every thing to strive
against. Labour is high, and so are the necessaries of life. New
South Wales is not a place to economize in. A moderate fortune,
unless employed in some lucrative and growing business, will finally
involve its owner in difficulties; and if he engage in farming, a few
bad seasons (very likely to happen) will completely ruin him. From
all the information I could obtain, emigration to New South Wales is
attended with risk, unless a person be very prudent and can keep
himself within his means. ‘The moment he begins to borrow money,
he is sure to get behindhand; for few can stand the payment of an
interest of fifteen per cent. The great difficulty with all emigrants
seems to be, that as land is very cheap in comparison to what they
have been accustomed to, they immediately desire to possess large
tracts. This it is necessary to look for, and much time and money

under the British dominions has cost the mother country more, nor has any one been con-
ducted so badly, having cost the government about one million pounds for bounty. Some
extraordinary circumstances were related to me of the manner in which the government
was defrauded, in spite of their stipulations directly to the contrary.

228 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

Is spent in wandering about the country in search of what is not
very easy of attaiment. Another difficulty of the newly-arrived
settler consists in getting information concerning the unoccupied terri-
tory. No land-office or land-agent is found here for the emigrant to
apply, to, and he not unfrequently falls into the hands of those who
defraud him, or is led astray by the reports of the ignorant or preju-
diced, and at last is induced to purchase much more than he requires,
and in consequence fails of success. The government lands are dis-
posed of in a different way from what ours are. A certain parish
having been surveyed and mapped, is advertised as being open for
sale; persons select and make application, and if a less quantity than
six hundred and forty acres is desired, he is obliged to state the reasons
of his wish to obtain it, and the use to which he purposes to put it: the
land is then advertised to be sold on a certain day (of the month), at
public auction. If the land offered for sale happen to be in the neigh-
bourhood of some wealthy proprietor, he cannot fail to become informed
of it; the section is bid up, and the person may be disappointed in ob-
taining the allotment selected and advertised by his own desire.

The minimum price must be paid, at any rate: this originally was
five shillings an acre; it is now twelve. Ten per cent. must be paid
down, and the remainder in one month, or the deposit is forfeited.
On payment of the money the title-deed is given, subject to the
nominal quit-rent of a peppercorn. Before delivery of the deeds, the
law provides that forty shillings shall be paid to the colonial secretary,
and five shillings to the register. The crown reserves to itself the
right of making roads and bridges, as well as of taking timber, stone,
and other materials for making and keeping them in repair; as weli
as all mines of coal and precious metals. No land within one hun-
dred feet of high-water mark on the sea-coast, harbours, or bays, is to
be considered open to purchase, unless for purposes of commerce and
navigation.

As respects the discontents arising from what the colonists call the
misapplication of the land-fund, her Majesty’s ministers have deter-
mined that she has a right to alienate the waste lands, and divert the
appropriation of the proceeds, and that the doubts raised would, if
sustained, be laid aside by a declaratory act of Parliament.

All free persons are admitted as purchasers of land, without any
limitation whatever as to quantity.

In order to show that the statement of the extent of crime in the
colony, however extraordinary it may appear, is not exaggerated, I
will give extracts from the charge of Judge Burton to the jury, at the
close of the session of the Supreme Court, in November, 1835, and

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 229

afterwards a report by him to the colonial secretary, in 1836. Both of
these may be classed as official documents of the highest authority.*

Judge Burton remarked, that “It was now his duty to discharge
them (the jury) from any further attendance this session, but before he
did so, he must make a few observations, which they ought to carry to
their homes, and there give them a calm and serious consideration ; his
own mind was sufficiently impressed with their importance.

“Tt had been his lot to preside alternately with his brother judges in
that court, he might say, for three years. It was a period at which
he might himself well pause and inquire what he had been doing,
what had been, the effect of his labours, and especially, considering
the numbers of capital convictions which had taken place before him,
and the number of sentences passed, it was fitting that he should ask
himself the question, what has been the effect of those sentences in the
way of example?

“He felt they were equally interested in the same questions; he
would therefore lay before them the views and conclusions at which
his own mind had arrived. He had requested a return to be made out
by the chief clerk of the court of all the capital convictions that had
taken place during the last three years, and he thought when he stated
the number of them, they would feel he was fully justified in the course
of observations he was about to make.

“In 1833, there had been one hundred and thirty-five capital con-
victions, on which sixty-five sentences of death had been passed ; forty-
five of these capital convictions, and fifteen of these sentences of death,
had taken place upon his judicial responsibility.

“Jn 1834, there were one hundred and forty-eight capital convic-
tions, on eighty-three of which sentence of death had been passed ;
forty-eight of which convictions, and thirty-six of which sentences,
had been before himself.

“Tn 1835, one hundred and sixteen capital convictions, and seventy-
one sentences of death; fifty-six of which had taken place before him,
and twenty-eight of which sentences he had passed. Jn addition to
which, there are thirty-three prisoners who have been capitally con-
victed, waiting sentence, whether death might be recorded, or passed
uponthem. The number of capital convictions was a feature sufliciently
striking in the administration of justice in the colony ; for it was to be
remarked, that capital punishment had been taken away from several
offences, ever since the 1st of August, 1833,—such as forgery, cattle-
stealing, stealing in a dwelling-house under the value of five pounds

* See Appendix X. for tabular statements of crime in New South Wales.
U

230 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

(these were fruitful sources of capital conviction in former times) ; so
that those which had taken place since that time, were all of crimes
of violence: murder, rape, robbery, burglary, maliciously stabbing,
shooting, and wounding, and offences of similar character.

“The calendar for the present sessions presents the following facts,
and had been furnished him by the crown solicitor :

«««’ There had been convicted of murder, two; stabbing with intent,
&c., shooting at, with intent to kill, cutting and maiming, assault, with
intent to do bodily harm, six; manslaughter, two; arson, one; piracy
and burglary, eight; house-breaking, ten; highway robbery, seven;
receiving, one; forgery, two; larceny on the high seas, one; larceny,
four; cattle-stealing, one; piracy only, one; robbery, eight ;—total,
fifty-four.

“The prisoners in jail on the 18th of November, 1835, untried, were
seventy-four, from various causes of delay ; they were, however, neither
unknown nor unheeded. With respect to the causes of this state of
crime, he had formed his own conclusions, and begged them to’weigh
and examine them, and judge for themselves; he thought the number
of capital convictions alone, enough to point his own and their attention
to it, as an indication of the state of the country as to crime.

“He did not think it necessary to mention the number of convictions
before the Supreme Court, during the same period, for offences not
capital. He would, however, briefly refer to them, and to all offences
which were tried before the several Courts of Quarter Sessions
throughout the colony, in the exercise of their summary jurisdiction,
and by juries; the mass of offences which were summarily disposed of
by the magistrates; and, added to all those, the numerous undiscovered
crimes, which every man who had heard him, and to whom the report
of his words should come, would at once admit to have occurred within
his own circle of knowledge. There the picture presented to their
minds would be one of the most painful reflection. It would appear to
one that could look down upon the community, that the main business
of us all was the commission of crime, or the punishment of it; as if
the whole colony was in motion towards the several courts of justice ;
and the most painful reflection of all must be that so many capital
sentences, and the execution of them, had not had the effect of prevent-
ing crime, by way of example.

“In his opinion, one grand cause of such a state of things was the
overwhelming defect in the religious principles of the community; a
principle, wnich he considered as the polar star, to guide a man in all
his conduct, and without which none other would prevent him from
crime.

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 2371

“But that he might not be said to make so grave a charge upon
hght foundation, he would instance the crimes of violence, the murders,
manslaughters, in drunken revels, the perjuries, the false witnessing,
from motives of reward or revenge, which in the proceedings before
him had been brought to light. There were some indeed of so atro-
cious a character which had occurred before him, that he would
briefly instance some of them, which the time that had elapsed might
have caused to pass away from their memory.

“The case of Mullany and his wife, who were convicted of stealing
from the person of Patrick Sherry, by administering to him some
deleterious drug, which for a time deprived him of sense, and perhaps
only the quantity prevented his losing his life. The case of Armstrong,
the overseer, who was acquitted upon a false charge, brought against
him by a convict under his superintendence, of shooting him with
intent to murder.

“The case of Cowan and his wife, who were acquitted of the
murder of a man named Kerr, embodies in itself a picture of those
evils with which the colony is visited. A person of the name of
Campbell, and the deceased Kerr, lived near Liverpool, and kept an
unlicensed still, and a house to which the gangs of prisoners in this
neighbourhood resorted for drink, and they were cattle-stealers. On
a Sunday evening this house was visited by a constable from Liver-
pool, who arrived about eight o’clock, and found the parties, as he
expressed it, ‘beastly drunk,’ and the two prisoners of the crown in
the same state; this was the last time Kerr was seen alive by any
respectable person.

“Information was given the next day, by two of Cowan’s servants.
to the magistrates of Liverpool, against him, for cattle-stealing, and it
was proved that their having done so was known to Peter Montgo-
mery, a convict, employed as overseer at the Liverpool Hospital, in
the afternoon of the same day, and that he had visited Cowan after-
wards, and understood from expressions made by Cowan, during his
intoxication, that he expected Kerr would give evidence against him.
Kerr was murdered by some one on that night, and his body was
afterwards found at fifty rods’ distance, but the blood was traced to
within seventeen yards of Cowan’s door.

“ Campbell had given a statement before the magistrates, which, if
he had adhered to on the trial, would have brought home the guilt of
that murder to both the prisoners; but he recanted the whole of his
previous statement, and they were acquitted.

“Tt appeared in evidence, that Campbell had been forwarded from
L verpool to Sydhey, handcuffed with Cowan, and was confined in

232 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

the same jail-yard with him. It further appeared, (and it deserves
mention as an instance of retributive justice, as well as showing the
character of the case,) that another dead man was found in the same
place three months before, and upon that occasion a coroner’s jury had
acquitted the prisoner Cowan, upon the evidence of the man Kerr;
and this deposition of Kerr’s after his death, was given in the court,
on evidence in favour of the same prisoner, when Cowan was subse-
quently tried, and was the main ground of his acquittal.

“In another case, an old man was acquitted of maliciously shooting
at a servant in his employment, and the means taken to procure that
acquittal, was a charge of felony set up against the principal witness.

“These, and many other instances still more disgusting, had brought
him to the conclusion, that there was an overwhelming defect of reli-
gious principle in this colony. There was a great deficiency of reli-
gious instruction and instructers.

“He had visited the penal settlement, where he saw them herding
together without any chance of improvement. A man who had been
brought before him for sentence, observed, in a manner which drew
tears from his eyes, and wrung his heart, ‘ That let a man be what he
will, when he comes here, he is soon as bad as the rest; a man’s heart
is taken from him, and there is given to him the heart of a beast.’

“He felt bound to say, that masters of convicts were not sufficiently
attentive to the morals of their men. It had been proved before him,
that highly respectable persons near a church in the same town, not
only neglected to oblige them to attend the worship, but actualiy
suffered them to spend the Lord’s day amidst scenes of drunkenness
and debauchery. It had been further proved, that the Lord’s day, by
some masters, was made a day of labour, some other day being
allowed to them as an equivalent. He was sorry to add, that many
of the worst crimes which had been brought under his notice, were
committed on the Lord’s day, and he was led to apprehend that there
was a very general disregard and desecration of it.

“He had been induced, by what had been proved before him in
that court, gravely to consider the question of convicts working out
of irons, and felt convinced that it was one of the most fruitful sources
of crime to be found in the colony. He had before him a return, from
which it appeared that the number of convicts at this time employed
upon the roads, is two thousand two hundred and forty ; of whom one
thousand one hundred and four are out of irons. And when they (the
jury) considered who these men were, and what they had been; that
they left their huts in any number, armed or unarmed, as they pleased;
from the evidence he possessed respecting the conduct of these road-

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 233

parties of the colony, it would appear that those establishments were
like bee-hives, the inhabitants busily pouring in and out; but with this
difference: the one works by day, the other by night; the one goes
forth to industry, the other to plunder.

“To the careless or worse than careless conduct of the overseers,
he did attribute a vast proportion of the burglaries and robberies that
were committed in the country districts. It had been proved in a
recent case that a party of these men had committed a robbery, under
such circumstances of aggravation, that sentence of death had been
passed upon four of them.

“The settlers themselves were to blame for many of the crimes
committed by ‘convicts belonging to road-parties. It appears they
have frequently employed these men, in their leisure hours, or on a
Sunday, paying them for their labours in money, which was spent in
drink, and so prepared them for crime; and it also appeared that after
using their services in harvest, they remunerated them for their ser-
vices, by granting passes for several days more than was necessary
for them to return to their gangs, during which time the whole
country they passed through is laid under contribution by their depre-
dations.

« Another source of crime was the occupation of the waste lands of
the colony by unauthorized and improper persons, both bond and free,
who, commencing with nothing, or a very small capital, soon after
acquire a degree of wealth, which must lead every reasonable man to
the conclusion that they do not get it honestly.

« The congregation of large numbers of convict servants in the town
of Sydney, to which were to be attributed the vast proportion of the
burglaries and robberies committed there, the master allowing the
convict servants to wander about when and where they please after
his work is done.

«The allowing improper persons to have licensed public houses. It
had been proved that a great many robberies had been committed at
such places, many of the proprietors of these low houses being not
far removed from the class of life in which the prisoners were them-
selves placed.

«“ Another cause, which comes home to all, is the almost total want
of the superintendence of masters over their assigned servants. It
had been proved to him that many of the robberies which had been
committed are attributed to this alone; also, that convicts, six or
seven in number, armed with muskets, and masked, had committed
various robberies on their adjoining neighbours. One of them at-
tempted a robbery in the middle of the day, on a Sunday, on the high-

VOL, Il. Ue 30

234 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

road from Sydney to Paramatta, armed with a musket, another person
being in his company; and very many robberies were committed
through convict servants being left too much at liberty to roam where
they pleased, during the hours of night.”

In Judge Burton’s report to the colonial secretary, as to whether
juries in the colony have answered the ends of justice, he gives a full
account of the jury system, its formation, &c., some passages of which
I shall also quote, as it will tend to show the manner in which the law
is administered in the colony, and the difficulties encountered in the
proper punishment of crime.

“In civil cases, such as form the ordinary business of the court, the
matters in dispute are so simple as to afford but little field for any
undue bias on either side.

* “Tt is only in cases occurring between the government and an indi-

vidual, or involving some point of political or party feeling, that any
trial can be had of the principles of the jurymen, and happily there
have been no instances of any such during the time (the last three
years) that jury trial has been established.

“In criminal cases, there is a greater and more constant ground for
apprehension of improper influences, and undue bias upon the minds
of the jurymen. The prisoners for trial before the court, are chiefly
of a class transported hither for crimes committed out of the colony;
and persons of the same condition, and others very low in respecta-
bility and character, and frequently allied to them, are qualified, ac-
cording to colonial law, to serve as jurymen.

«The qualifications are, a clear income, arising out of lands, houses,
or other real estate, of at least thirty pounds per annum, or a clear
personal estate of three hundred pounds.

“The disqualifications as they now stand are: ‘Every man not a
natural-born subject of the king, and every man who hath been or
shall be attainted of any treason or felony, or convicted of any crime,
(unless he shall have received for such crime a free pardon, or shall
be within the benefit and protection of some act of Parliament, having
force and effect of a pardon under the great seal,) or, secondly, if any
person who, either while serving under any sentence passed upon him
in any part of the British dominions, or after the expiration or remis-
sion of such sentence, shall have been convicted of any treason, felony,
or other infamous offence.’ ”

Respecting the qualifications arising from property, Judge Burton
says, “The possession of such an amount as is specified in the act
affords no criterion in the colony, where property is notoriously accu-
mulated by every variety of dishonest means. It may be a test of

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 235

respectability and trustworthiness in a community differently consti-
tuted, but wholly fails in a community like this, lacking honesty, but
abounding in property. In consequence of this qualification being
requisite, many honest and respectable persons in the community, very
proper to serve on juries, are excluded.

‘Within this range are included a class of persons in the colony
who have been transported hither for offences committed out of the
colony. They are qualified to act as jurymen under the Local Act,
without any proof being required that they had regained that good
repute which they once lost, and the mere circumstance of their having
served the period of their several sentences, does not establish that fact.

«There are others who, possessing the qualifications in property,
have arrived in the colony as free emigrants, the near relatives of
transported persons, under such circumstances as justly to lead to the
suspicion of an undue bias existing in any case affecting them, and who
have connexions in England, not unlikely to follow them to the colo-
nies, possessing ready means of importing into this country property
dishonestly acquired, and who speedily accumulate wealth by that
and other dishonest means. There is no provision for guarding the
administration of justice against the predominance of such persons
upon the jury-list. The effect of the colonial law in practice has been,
that juries actually empannelled under it have been frequently formed
of very improper persons.”

From the data submitted with Judge Burton’s report, he says, “ It
appears that a party accused, inclined to exercise his right of peremp-
tory challenge, might insure a large predominance of convicted persons
on the jury, inasmuch as the law allows in cases of felony the
peremptory challenge of twenty in number, and if a prisoner has pro-
fessional assistance in his defence, this right of challenge is fully
exercised. In one instance | knew gentlemen of high character and
respectability thus peremptorily rejected on the part of the prisoner. I
took the liberty of asking some of them afterwards if the prisoner was
known to them, and was answered that he was not. The conclusion
in my own mind was, that they were challenged on account of their
respectability. In another case before me, every person of apparent
respectability who was called, was peremptorily challenged on the part
of the prisoner, which the crown officer observing, challenged all the
others, and the case remained over in default of jurors. In both cases
the accused had professional assistance.

« Again, the jurors are placed alphabetically on the list, and are
summoned in that order; the relatives of convicted persons, qualified,
and bearing the same name, are sure to be on the same panel with

236 HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, ETC,

them. A party may be well informed beforehand, who will be
summoned on his jury. An opportunity thus offers for the exertion of
improper influence.

«A large proportion of those who have appeared and served are
publicans, as many in some cases as eight out of twenty-nine, three
having been convicted persons; in other cases, ten out of thirty-one,
five having been also convicted persons; and again, eleven out of
thirty-five, four of them convicted persons.

“Respecting the large proportion of this class of persons on the jury
panels, and the state of crime, and the causes of it, I addressed a letter
to his Excellency the Governor, and I now repeat, that the evils arising
from the very great number of licensed houses for the sale of ardent
spirits, are not restricted to the stimulus which they give to the com-
mission of crime, and concealment of it which they afford, but I have
found a very great proportion out of the panel of jurymen before the
Supreme Court (who actually attend), to be holders of licensed public
houses, frequently very low in respectability, to whose houses, prose-
cutors, and parties accused, on bail, and their witnesses, bond and
free, resort for the purpose of drinking, during the period of time they
are in attendance on court; and a reasonable fear is thus excited for
the purity of the administration of justice, which I have had occasion
as a judge to see realized.

“Upon reference to the jury-list of 1835, I have found that the
number to be summoned from criminal issues before the Supreme
Court is nine hundred and fifty-three, of whom two hundred and three
are publicans and innkeepers. The proportion of those who actually
serve, far exceeds that number; and in June, 1835, no less a number
than two hundred and twenty-four licenses were granted for public
houses in the town of Sydney alone. Few of them do not possess the
necessary qualifications, and many are highly respectable persons ; but
the proportion which they bear to the whole is small.”

The keepers of the low public houses in Sydney, are chiefly per-
sons who have been transported to this colony, or are married to con-
victs, and many of them are notorious drunkards, obscure persons,
fighters, gamblers, receivers of stolen goods, harbourers of thieves, and
the most depraved of both sexes; they exist upon the vices of the lower
orders, and inasmuch as there are no licensed pawnbrokers in Sydney,
they act as such, but not as occurs in other countries, upon occasion
of some temporary pressure on the poor, for some necessary of life, but
for intoxicating liquor.

There is a great unwillingness on the part of respectable persons to
appear and serve on juries, arising from a natural repugnance to asso-

OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 237

ciation and confinement in the jury-room with disreputable persons.
Judge Burton goes on to give many instances of the behavicur of the
jury in their room, and their determination to acquit; stating, that he
had been informed by a respectable inhabitant of Sydney, on whose
veracity he could fully rely, that upon one occasion, when a prisoner
was on trial for cattle-stealing, he was defended by one of the practi-
tioners of the court, when, during the progress of the trial, a juryman
leaned over him towards the practitioner, calling him by name, and
said, “ It’s all right, we’ll acquit him.” When the prisoner was called
on for his defence, the practitioner advised him to say nothing, and
call no witnesses, which course was adopted; and he was acquitted.

It is proper: to state that the other judges think that the jury trials
have met with the success reasonably to be expected, and that matters
will grow daily better as the free emigrants arrive and are qualified.
From what I understood from gentlemen of the legal profession, there
has some improvement taken place since the year 1836.

The courts still adhere to the use of wigs and gowns, and the
opinion seems to be that such appendages cannot be dispensed with
without injuring their respectability and solemnity in the eyes of the
people.

Under the additional clause, amendments have been made by the
Legislative Council in the laws regulating trials, and they have also
abolished military juries.

Education in the colony of late years has claimed some portion of
the attention of the government, which has made allowances to the
different sects of Christians for the maintenance of schools. I was
obligingly provided with the school return for the year 1838, by
William Lithgow, Esquire. This will be found in Appendix XII.

It appears that the whole number educated is only six thousand and
thirty-seven, and that the expense incurred by government is twelve
thousand four hundred and twenty-six pounds, or upwards of two
pounds per head. ‘The number of children attending schools is to the
aggregate of population as about one to twenty, which is the same as
in 1836. In the return above mentioned, it will be found that there
are seventy-six schools, of different denominations; three colleges, and
sixty-seven private schools: showing an increase more than fourfold
during the last five years. Several attempts have been made to
establish the Irish national school system, or a general system of
education, but thus far, without success. The chief opposition to this
has been from the Church of England.

Among the colleges, two are under the guidance of the Church of
England, viz.: King’s College or School, at Paramatta, and Sydney

9398 HISTORY, ETC, OF- NEW SOUTH WALES.

College. The third, called the Australian College, was established
by the Reverend Dr. Lang. Of this institution that gentleman is the
principal. ‘The college edifices consist of four large buildings, for the
accommodation of the professors and their families, with recitation-
rooms in each, besides apartments for the students. The expenses,
including board, are about forty pounds per annum. The charge at
Sydney College is about ten pounds more. Of the latter college, Sir
John Jamison is the president. It is in a great measure under the
control of the Bishop and Episcopal laity of Sydney. An examination
was witnessed at the latter institution, and was thought very creditable
to the students. Medals were awarded and appropriate remarks
made by the Bishop.

The system of giving to the clergy an allowance from the govern-
ment, for their support, is the fertile cause of dissension in this
community. Many hard thoughts, and harsh expressions, are occa-
sionally felt and uttered, by one sect against the others, in the contest
for the stipend distributed among the several denominations. An act
was passed in 1836, which appears as liberal as could be expected.
The amount appropriated annually is about twenty thousand pounds,
of which about three-fourths go to the Episcopal Church, and the
remainder is divided among other sects, Roman Catholics included.
Regrets were occasionally heard, (perhaps to flatter us,) that the
voluntary system of supporting the clergy had not been introduced. _ It
will be well to remark, before quitting the subject, that in all other
matters appertaining to the general good and benefit of the community,
there appeared a co-operation highly commendable.

The Australian colony was erected into an Episcopal See in 1836,
and Archdeacon Broughton was consecrated as the first Bishop. To
his lordship we are indebted for many kind attentions, and the lively
interest he took in our proceedings.

The exertions that the colonial government and private individuals
appear to be making to afford religious instruction, cannot but bring
about, in a few years, a very desirable and necessary reform among
the lower classes of this colony, of which the facts previously exhibited
in the account of the country fully establish the necessity.

NATIVE WEAPONS AND SHIELD.

CHA kn hk YEE

CONTENTS.

JAUNT TO PARAMATTA—DESCRIPTION OF THAT PLACE— OBSERVATORY —GOVERN-
MENT-HOUSE, AND FARM—VISIT OF NATURALISTS TO ILLAWARRA—WOOLONGONG—
VEGETATION OF ILLAWARRA—LAKE ILLAWARRA—JAUNT OF MESSRS. HALE AND
AGATE TO HUNTER’S RIVER— TOWN OF NEWCASTLE —COAL MINES — CONVICT
MARRIAGES—CONVICT STOCKADE—NATIVES—JOURNEY TO LAKE MACQUARIE — MR
THRELKELD—MACQUARIE LAKE—CONVICT SERVANTS—M’GILL, THE NATIVE—SHEEP-
SHEARING—VISIT TO PEUEN BEUEN—BANKS OF HUNTER RIVER—MR. HALE’S JOUR-
NEY TO WELLINGTON VALLEY —MAIL CARRIAGE — POST-OFFICE DEPARTMENT —
PENRITH—BLUE MOUNTAINS— MOUNT VICTORIA—VALLEY OF CLWYD—BATHURST —
LAKES—BUSH - RANGERS— WELLINGTON —NATIVE CHILDREN—MR. WATSON—SHEEP-
SHEARING—PROFITS OF SHEEP-FARMS—FLOODS OF THE MACQUARIE—POPULATION
OF THE WEST—NATIVE LANGUAGES— MR. PEALE’S JOURNEY —CLIFTON —CAPTAIN
MARTHUR— HE INTRODUCES THE FINE-WOOL SHEEP—LIVERPOOL—DAM IN COOK’S
RIVER—NEPEAN RIVER — WALLABIES — STRATHARA—BIRDS—DECREASE OF NATIVE
ANIMALS—VISIT TO NEWINGTON—SALT-WORKS—PREVALENCE OF SALT IN AUSTRA-
LIA—DECREASE OF LAKES—ANCIENT FLOODS— DESCRIPTION OF FISSURES—EARTH-
QUAKES—BURNING MOUNTAIN—TRADE OF NEW SOUTH WALES—FISHERIES—BANKS
— EXPORTS — DEPOTS FOR GRAIN —COLONY AT SWAN RIVER—SOUTH AUSTRALIA
— FETE AT FORT MACQUARIE—SURPRISE OF THE COLONISTS AT OUR WANT OF
PREPARATION—STATE OF THE PEACOCK—ARRIVAL OF H. B. M. SHIP DRUID—SEASON
OF OUR VISIT—FACILITIES FOR OUTFITS AT SYDNEY—KINDNESS AND HOSPITALITY

OF CITIZENS—CHRISTMAS DINNER— DEPARTURE OF THE SQUADRON — DESERTERS
FOUND ON BOARD.

(239)

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CHAPTER VIII.

NEW SOUTH WALES.
1839.

My own time was so completely occupied during the stay of the
squadron at Sydney, as to prevent my making any excursions in the
colony, with the exception of a brief visit to Paramatta, by invitation
of his Excellency the Governor.

The distance of Paramatta from Sydney is fifteen miles. There are
two methods of going to it from Sydney: by a carriage on a good
macadamized road, or by a steamer up the Paramatta river. The
latter is the most agreeable mode, and the scenery on the banks of the
river is fine. The whole distance abounds in positions which would
furnish beautiful sites for villas, upon the bays, inlets, and headlands.
Should the progress of the colony in wealth and population continue,
these sites will doubtless be occupied ere long with handsome resi-
dences.

The passage by steamer to Paramatta occupies about two hours;
here the river becomes narrow, and a mile higher up the stream the
tide ceases to flow, and farther navigation ceases.

The town of Paramatta is situated about a mile from the steamboat
landing. Although regularly laid out, it has a straggling air, each
house having a large space enclosed as a garden, and the attempt at
regularity rather injures its appearance by giving it a look of stiffness.
It has, and I suppose deserves, the reputation of being a dull place. It
is built principally on a single street, about a mile long, at the head of
which, on an eminence, is situated the Government-House, where his
Excellency the Governor resides during the summer season.

The Paramatta Observatory, established by Sir Thomas Brisbane, is
a small building, with several good instruments by Jones, Ramsden,

VOL. I bs 31 (241)

242 NEW SOUTH WALES.

and Troughton; but I regretted to see the dilapidated state it was in.
Mr. Dunlap, the present incumbent, obligingly showed me the instru-
ments, and I passed an agreeable morning with him. He is allowed a
small salary, but I understood that no allowance was made for repairs
of the building, &c. ;

Paramatta contains some public buildings and works, among which
are the female penitentiary or factory, which has already been de-
scribed, a stone court-house, barracks, and a fine stone bridge over the
Paramatta river. I feel greatly indebted to Sir George and Lady
Gipps, with whom I passed two days, for the kindness and atten-
tion they showed me.

Previous to Sir George Gipps’s going to New South Wales, he had
been in Canada, and on his return had paid a short visit to the United
States. It afforded me pleasure to find the liberal views and feelings
he evinced towards our country. It is needless to say that at the
Government-House my time passed agreeably, and that I sensibly felt
the exchange of such agreeable society for the routine of my duties on
shipboard. Here, also, I had the pleasure of meeting several agree-
able people.

The houses of Paramatta are generally no more than two stories
high, and are built of sandstone. The town contains several churches.
The Government-House is a commodious, unpretending two-story
building. The grounds are extensive, but not remarkable for beauty.
A farm is attached to the domain, where many government cattle are
kept, and there are numerous outbuildings and dairies. The ground
had a familiar look to me, for the grass was burnt up, and reminded
me of my home at Washington during the heat of summer. It was,
therefore, an unfavourable time to see its beauties. I understood that
this place was laid out as an experimental farm; but this plan, I should
suppose, is now laid aside, for the people of the colony are abundantly
able to take care of themselves.

A telegraph is placed in a conspicuous position within a short walk
of the house, which communicates with Sydney, and was formerly in
constant use. It is now in contemplation to remove it, as it is no more
needed, which is a farther proof of the advancement of this colony
towards a well-regulated government.

There are also schools at Paramatta under the direction of the resi-
dent chaplain.

Several of the gentlemen who were left at Sydney, visited the Illa-
warra district, which has already been more than once spoken of. They
made the passage from Sydney to Woolongong in a steamer. Owing
to the steamer not being well-adapted for a sea-voyage, much incon-

NEW SOUTH WALES. 243

venience, delay, and disappointment occur on this route, although upon
the whole it facilitates the intercommunication between this district and
the city. Woolongong, the port at which the steamer stops, is a small
thriving town, and will be the principal one of this district. It has no
natural harbour, but one is now under construction, at the expense of
government, by excavating the solid rock (limestone), for the accom-
modation of steamers and small vessels: a large number of convicts
were at work upon it. The port will never be fully protected until the
proposed pier or breakwater is built, for during half the year, the sea
makes it dangerous to lie at anchor in the roadstead, notwithstanding
the strong moorings which have been laid down. It will also be very
difficult to enter the basin in bad weather, until such a breakwater is
in existence to protect it. The basin, when completed, will contain
about half a dozen vessels. The construction of the breakwater is
carried on at the same time as that of the basin, and the stone exca-
vated from the one is used in the construction of the other. Both were
to have been finished in 1842.

The district of Illawarra is held by a few persons, who have large
grants of land. The roads are constructed and kept in order at the
expense of the government. When one of the residents was asked
whether the road was a public one, he answered, it was a “ govern-
ment road.”

The convict population, including ticket-of-leave holders, in this
district bears a proportion to the free as one to three. Of the remain-
ing two-thirds, more than one-half are emancipists and expirées. The
proportion of women to men is also about one to three.

For the hospitable reception given them by Mr. Plunket, the
Attorney-General of the colony, our gentlemen are under great obli-
gation. He happened to be spending some time at his farm, near
Woolongong. ‘This contains about two hundred acres, and is exceed-
ingly pretty. The residence of Mr. Plunket is a neat cottage, built
after the manner of the settlers, and is well adapted to the country.
[t is surrounded by the most luxuriant foliage, nearly all of which has
a tropical character, and includes palms, cabbage-trees, and several
varieties of tree-ferns, all growing to a great height.

A drive through the woods, accompanied by the ladies of the
family, afforded many opportunities of making collections, and getting
information.

Some idea may be formed of the advancement of this district, and
the rise in the value of property, from the fact that Mr. Plunket sold
his farm for fourteen thousand pounds, which, but two years before,
he had bought for seven hundred.

244 NEW SOUTH WALES.

Dr. Osborne, R. N., has a farm likewise, near Lake Illawarra,
which is now divided by a narrow sand-beach from the sea. This
lake is shallow, and is about six miles long, by four miles wide. It
contains a great quantity of fish, principally mullet.* Large quanti-
ties of shells are to be seen on its banks. ‘These are burnt into lime,
which is used both for building and as manure. On the borders of the
lake reside several fishermen, and it is a general resort for the natives.
Mullet, caught in large quantities, are salted and dried.

Daisy Bank, the seat of Dr. Osborne, is about ten miles from
Woolongong. Here also our gentlemen met with that kind hospi-
tality which reigns throughout this country. This part of the district
is nearly all brought into cultivation. The mountain scenery is fine,
and a few very large trees are conspicuous objects in it. The side of
the mountain affords a good field for making botanical collections, as
it is not easily accessible to cattle. A large accession was made to
our collection of seeds. ‘The woods were alive with birds, among
which were the white cockatoo, which collects in flocks, and does
infinite mischief to the wheat-fields. They are difficult to approach
in consequence of the good look-out kept by the old birds. The small
species of the kangaroo, called the wallaby, is found here, as are
large black and diamond snakes, lizards, black and white cockatoos,
and sand-leeches. The latter is much dreaded, as its bite is venomous,
and produces ulcers. It is very troublesome, crawling up and attach-
ing itself to the flesh, where it gloats upon the blood, and not unfre-
quently bursts from repletion.

This district is level, and was thought to resemble some parts of our
own country, after the harvest was gathered in. Silicified wood is
very common in Illawarra, and many stumps of it are seen in passing
along the road. In some of them the texture of the wood is well
preserved; and so natural is their aspect, that at first sight they appear
as if they were now standing where they had originally grown. The
diameter of some of them is about two and a half feet, and the whole
mass is completely petrified. They are quite black, except where
bleached by exposure.

The Illawarra district extends from Woolongong to Shoalhaven, and
is the most interesting portion of Australia to visit. In this small
compass is found some of the most remarkable of the sandstone scenery,
and there is also an opportunity of viewing a basaltic formation, which
is no where else to be found in the colony.

Kiama is remarkable for the number of deep and wild caverns,

* One of our gentlemen was assured by the fishermen that there were thirteen kinds of
fish in Wawarra Lake.

NEW SOUTH WALES. 245

through which the sea forces a passage to the distance of one hundred
yards or more, sweeping along ata furious rate; and when the noise
of its progress has nearly died away, loud thunderings are heard
rushing through its vaults. The Blow-Hole of Kiama Point is already
a place of some celebrity, and it merits to be so. A subterranean
passage of about twenty feet broad by eighteen high, receives the
advancing wave, which passes quietly along for two hundred feet. It
then meets a basaltic wall, against which it dashes with a sullen roar,
and passes upwards through a narrow opening above, rising at times
to a height of one hundred feet, throwing off innumerable jets in all
directions, and which fall around in ever-changing forms.

Some of the basaltic scenery about Kiama, will bear comparison
with the far-famed Giant’s Causeway, and the rocks of Stafla, if it does
not surpass them, united as it is with the luxuriant and splendid forests
of palms, tree-ferns, and the woody creepers of the tropics.

About Shoalhaven is one of the largest and finest farming and
grazing districts in the colony. Its scenery is extremely picturesque,
particularly when viewed from the summit of Coolomgata. The broad
Shoalhaven river is seen to the southward, flowing through rich
meadows and farms, enclosing a delta; while the deep and sinuous
bays with which the coast is indented, and which enclose innumerable
islets, appear like a crowded cluster of lakes.

To the north, a wide verdant plain extends to a mountain bluff,
called Broughton’s Head. Through this the Broughton river winds,
and beyond it is seen the Illawarra mountain range.

On a wide platform around Woolongong Point, are to be seen at
high-water mark, globular concretions, that resemble cannon-balls in
appearance. ‘They vary in size, from one inch to four in diameter,
and are very compact and tough. They generally contain some foreign
body, and in about a third of them, Mr. Dana found a single fossil
shell in a beautiful state of preservation. For a full detail of the
geological structure of this district, which is exceedingly interesting, |
must refer to the Geological Report. |

Mr. Hale and Mr. Agate made a jaunt to the Hunter river, and
thence to Lake Macquarie, to the establishment of Mr. Threlkeld, the
missionary employed among the aborigines.

The passage to Hunter river, a distance of eighty miles to the north
of Sydney, is made in a steamer. The boat was small and ill-adapted
for the sea.

Leaving Sydney just before dark, they reached Newcastle, at the
mouth of the Hunter river, about noon the next day. They, however,

had a head wind and much sea to contend against.
v2

246 NEW SOUTH WALES.

Among other accidents, the shipping of a sea caused much fright
among the women on board, and threw one poor girl into hysterics.
They were all glad to pass within the island of Nobboy, off the mouth
of Hunter river, and to get on shore at Newcastle.

The town of Newcastle is a small village of seventy or eighty
houses, built on the side of a hill; it contains two taverns and several
grog-shops, a jail, convict stockade, hospital, court-house, and a vene-
rable old-looking church. On one of the neighbouring hills is a flag-
staff, and on another a windmill. The business of a coal-mine and
that of the building of a breakwater for the protection of the harbour,
give the place an air of life and animation.

Our travellers put up at Rowell’s “Commercial Hotel;”’ and on
proceeding to make inquiries relative to the mode of reaching Mr.
Threlkeld’s, they were referred to Dr. Brook, the surgeon of the
hospital, and a friend of Mr. Threlkeld. He offered them every
attention, and advised them to wait for Mr. Threlkeld’s conveyance.
This delay gave them an opportunity of seeing something of the place,
and the natives, as well as to make drawings. The view of the sur-
rounding country from the windmill was extensive, overlooking the
town; the Hunter river was seen winding through a well-wooded
country, rising occasionally into low hills. At a bend of the river the
steamer was seen aground, on her way to Maitland, about twenty-
five miles farther up the river. The coast trended to the north, and
was visible as far as Port Stephens, about fifty miles distant.

There are two coal-pits, one on the hill, the other in the valley.
The former is the older, and has been worked about eight years.
Both are the property of the Australian Agricultural Company, and
are under the direction of Mr. James Steel. The coal is first seen
along the cliffs, forming black horizontal strata, separated by sandstone
and clay shale, from twenty feet to forty feet in thickness. They
formerly quarried it from the cliff, but the greater part of the coal is
now obtained by mining.

From the older coal-pit they have excavated an area of twenty-four
acres. The shafts are carried down about one hundred feet, to the
fifth or lowermost coal-seam, which is about sixty feet below the level
of the sea. The coal is at first taken out in small narrow areas, the
passages in which are but four feet high, leaving about as much
standing as is removed, the roof above being of fragile shale, and
requiring propping every three or four feet. The work is all per-
formed by convicts, who, after digging the coal out, take it in small
carriages on railways, which pass to the shaft, where it is raised by
steam-power. The lower bed only is considered sufficiently extensive

NEW SOUTH WALES. 247

and pure to pay for its exploration, and is about three feet thick. The
coal is pure, except a layer of one and a half inches of bluish sand-
stone. It is bituminous, and burns readily, with abundance of flame,
somewhat like kennel coal. It is compact, though less so than the
best Pittsburg and Liverpool, and is of fair quality, although some-
times impregnated with clay, which causes it to leave a large quantity
of ashes.

Pyrites is occasionally disseminated in masses through it. Coal
abounds throughout the valley of the Hunter, appearing at the surface
in many places.

The average quantity of coal produced is sixty tons a day, which
is piled up near the mouth of the pit, and thence sent to the pier on a
railway, where it is shipped to Sydney, Van Diemen’s Land, and even
to the Cape of Good Hope.

The new shaft in the valley is only sixty feet deep, the difference of
the two being in the height of the hill.

Dr. Brook was formerly superintendent of this station, and gave a
droll account of the summary manner in which marriages were con-
cluded with the female convicts. If he saw a man who had just come
in from the country with a clean shirt on, he was sure he had come
for a wife, and the event always justified his surmise. The man
usually intimated his wish with a modest sheepish grin. The fair
frail candidates for matrimony were paraded for his inspection, and if
he found one whose looks pleased him, he put the plain question at
once, “ Will you have me?” He was seldom answered in the nega-
tive, for marriage liberates the lady from the restraint she was under.
The banns were then announced by the parson for three Sundays,
when the lucky swain returned to claim his bride.

From the known licentious and unruly character of the female con-
victs, it is not to be supposed that these marriages can be very fruitful
of happiness; but as both parties had been felons, they are probably
as well matched as could be expected.

The greatest difficulty the superintendent of a station has to con-
tend with, is the management of the female convicts.

Captain Furlong, commandant of the garrison, was kind enough to
show the convict stockade; it encloses a prison for the convicts, and
a guard-house for the soldiers. The convicts all belong to the iron-
gang, composed here, as at Sydney, of those who have been guilty of
some crime in the colony. They were kept constantly in irons, and
are employed on the public works. They eat and sleep in the same
apartments, and their bed is a blanket on the floor; to guard two
hundred convicts, there are seventy soldiers stationed here.

248 NEW SOUTH WALES.

At Dr. Brook’s they had the pleasure of meeting with Mr. Dawson,
the first agent of the Australian Land Company, and the founder of
Port Stephens, who is well acquainted with this colony, and has pub-
lished a popular work in relation to it. He of course possessed much
information, and among other opinions seemed to entertain the idea
that no free colony can succeed, and that in all cases the first settlers
of a new country ought to have the use of slave labour, in order to be
successful. He argued that these only had realized fortunes; where
they had been left to their own resources they had generally failed,
and left it to their successors to reap the advantages of their labour.
As evidence of this opinion he contrasted the settlements of New
South Wales and Swan River. At the latter establishment it is well
known that the first settlers have lost almost every thing, and have
struggled with every difficulty, and that they now desire to have the
advantages of convict labour. ‘This remark, however, is not true as
respects South Australia; and its general accuracy would undoubt-
edly much depend upon the location.

In their walks they came across a group of several blacks (natives)
seated around a small fire; they were pointed out as the remnant of
the tribes which about forty years ago wandered in freedom over the
plains of the Hunter and around the borders of Lake Macquarie.
Their appearance was wretched in the extreme: emaciated limbs,
shapeless bodies, immense heads, deep-set glaring eyes, thickly-
matted hair, and the whole begrimed with dirt and red paint, gave
them an aspect hardly human. The dress (if such it could be called)
of the women, was a loose ragged gown, and of the men, a strip of
blanket wrapped round the middle, or a pair of tattered pantaloons,
which but half performed their office.

Mr. Threlkeld’s conveyance did not arrive, and not being able to
get another, they determined to walk to Lake Macquarie, and for this
purpose they resorted to the natives as guides, and by a great deal of
coaxing and promises of bull (grog), their natural repugnance to make
an exertion was overcome. An evidence of the pride which cha-
racterizes these natives was shown in this interview. One of them,
whose sobriquet was Big-headed Blackboy, was stretched out before
the fire, and no answer could be obtained from him, but a drawling
repetition, in grunts of displeasure, of “ Bel (not) me want to go.”
After promises and expostulations enough to overcome all patience,
Mr. Hale, tired of his obstinacy and stupidity, touched him slightly
with his foot, telling him to get up and listen. He immediately arose,
and seizing his spear, which was lying near him, turned his side
towards Mr. Hale, and stood looking at him askance, with an expres-

NEW SOUTH WALES. 24%

sion of demoniac malice, as though he would have run him through
with pleasure; but he did not speak a word in reply to all that was
said to him.

Friday, 13th December, the morning being chilly, the blacks, who
are very susceptible to cold, did not make their appearance till some
hours after sunrise. At half-past eight our travellers set out in com-
pany with a troop of natives, headed by the two whom they had hired.
The first of these was named Jemmy, the best-natured and most intel-
ligent of all; the other was Big-headed Blackboy, who had got over
his sulks. Jemmy refused to start until he had received a couple of
shillings, which he forthwith converted into a loaf of bread and a
bottle of grog. When about a mile from the town he asked permis-
sion to take a drink; and a cup of bark was produced from a thicket
where it had been hidden, whereupon the contents of the bottle as well
as the loaf were shared out among the troop. The two guides took no
more than an equal portion; for, according to the custom of the natives,
all share alike. The cup was made of a piece of the bark of the ti
tree, which resembles that of the birch, about a foot square. The ends
were folded in and tied together, to form a cavity of trough-like shape.
Such cups are called by them taudé. The path or cart-road they
followed, passed through a hilly country covered with forests. The
gum trees were the most prevalent, and many of them were of great
size, growing close together without any underwood.

The gum tree, of which there are many kinds, is peculiar to New
Holland. It has an inner bark of about an inch thick, enclosed by an
outer one which is quite thin. The latter is shed every year, which
gives their trunks and branches a peculiar appearance of many
colours, from pure white, through all the shades of yellow, olive, and
red, to a deep brown. These colours, showing through the green
foliage, produce a very striking effect on a stranger, and the contrast
is heightened by an occasional sight of a black and withered trunk,
from ae the bark had been stripped by the natives to make canoes,
or by settlers to roof their houses.

Ten miles brought them to Lake Macatanies but on the opposite
side to Mr. Threlkeld’s house, and they found themselves disappointed
in finding a canoe, which they were assured would be met with at
a settler’s on the banks of the lake. They were thus obliged to walk
ten miles further. The guides were here again taken with sullenness,
and refused to proceed. ‘They were proof against all promises and
abuse, and kept replying, “ Me marry (very) tired, bel (not) me want
to go.” ‘Through the kindness of Mr. Warren, the settler referred to,
this obstacle was overcome, by his offering to send his son as guide,

VOL. II. 32

250 NEW SOUTH WALES.

with a horse to carry the portmanteau. This offer was thankfully
accepted.

After proceeding a few miles they came upon a little encampment
of natives, crouching around fires in front of their huts, which were
as rude as possible, made of a few pieces of bark laid against a stump
and covered with bushes; they barely sufficed as a screen to keep off
the wind. One of the women was quite good-looking, with large
black eyes, white teeth, and small features. She was better dressed,
too, than any of the others, and the pretty half-caste child that was
clinging to her skirts, made it sufficiently evident in what manner her
finery had been obtained. As a part of the lake was said to be
fordable, it was determined to take advantage of it, in order to shorten
the route. One mounted the horse to pass over. Whilst they were
proceeding quietly along, the horse suddenly reared and _ plunged,
relieving himself of his rider and load, which were thrown into water
two feet deep, without any further injury than a good ducking, and the
disparagement of the wardrobe. It was found that the horse had
trodden upon a stingray, which fully accounted for his sudden gambols.
It was sunset when they arrived at Mr. Threlkeld’s station, which at
first sight appeared like a comfortable farm-house, such as is often seen
in our western country. Mr. Threlkeld was found busy attending to
his cattle, and gave them a warm and friendly reception, which made
them at once feel at home.

As Mr. Threlkeld has occupied a conspicuous place in this colony,
it may be well to give a short sketch of his labours in the missionary
field, in order to show the progress he has made, and the difficulties
he has had to contend with. I do this more readily from the feeling
that great injustice has been done him, and that he has suffered much
contumely and persecution from those who were too prone to listen to
the scandalous reports of interested individuals.

Mr. Threlkeld left England in 1814, as a missionary to the Society
Islands; he resided with Mr. Williams, at Raiatea, until 1824, when
the death of his wife determined him to pay a visit to England. About
this time the inspectors of missionaries, Messrs. Terman and Bennet,
arrived at the islands, and he took passage with them to Sydney. On
their arrival at Sydney, these gentlemen, supposing that a favourable
opportunity offered to establish a mission among the Australian
aborigines, requested him to take charge of it, which he consented to
do. Moreton Bay was at first proposed as the location, but it was
afterwards changed to Lake Macquarie, the latter place being a
favourite resort of the natives. ‘Ten thousand acres were granted by
government to the Missionary Society, in trust for the natives. The

NEW SOUTH WALES. 251

establishment was accordingly begun on this lake, on the opposite side
to that now occupied by Mr. Threlkeld, who at once planned his
station on the only footing by which he thought a reasonable chance
of success would be insured, that of a farming establishment, extensive
enough to give employment to the natives, and induce them to settle.
Their number, as is usually the case, had been greatly overrated ; he
soon, however, collected about fifty around him, and began to employ
them in felling trees, turning up the ground, and building; at the same
time labouring with them himself, in order to obtain such a knowledge
of their character, language, habits, &c., as might enable him to
become useful on the great subjects of his mission.

The expense of forming such an establishment was far greater than
had been anticipated, but was indispensable in a country like New
South Wales, where all the necessaries of life, at the commencement
of a settlement, have to be purchased. Added to this are the droughts
to which they are subject, and the expenses of transportation.

In consequence of the demands made upon them, the directors of
the Society became alarmed, and after reproving him severely for his
extravagance, finally dishonoured one of his drafts, and refused to pay
it until compelled by a lawsuit. This, of course, broke his connexion
with the Society, as Mr. Threlkeld was naturally indignant at the
undeserved disgrace to which they had subjected him.

The directors offered to pay his passage to England, but this he
refused, having determined to carry on the work by his own unassisted
efforts.

That he might be independent of any funds of the Society, and to
prevent its being said that he had derived any profit from them, he
removed in 1828 to the opposite side of the lake, a position far less
advantageous.

After struggling for two years to conduct the mission and maintain
his large family, he received a stipend of one hundred and fifty pounds
from the government, with the assignment of four convicts. With this
assistance he has been able to provide for his family, and devote him-
self to the instruction of the aborigines; but he has found his means
inadequate to keep a number employed about his station, in such a
manner as to overcome their natural tendency to a wandering life.

The consequence was, that the blacks, from the attraction held out
to them of indulging in drunkenness and other vices, left his neighbour-
hood to frequent the towns, where they had been rapidly diminishing
in number.

Mr. Threlkeld did not find the natives deficient in intelligence ; but
he has not been able to overcome their aversion to a fixed residence.

252 NEW SOUTH WALES.

In proof of this, they abandoned comfortable and substantial huts,
which he built for them, after a few days’ residence, on the plea that
they were infested with vermin.

Frequently, they would all quit him to attend some meeting of their
tribe, for war, hunting, or some religious ceremony, and stay away
for months.

He laboured in vain against these disadvantages, and it is not difh-
cult to perceive how impossible, under such circumstances, it would
be to meet with success in teaching and converting a set of savages,
so wedded to their usages.

Mr. Threlkeld’s labours have, however, been turned to some advan-
tage. He has published a grammar, and translated several of the books
of the New Testament. His influence has been productive of a better
tone of feeling between the blacks and the settlers than prevails else-
where, and has prevented those outrages which have occurred in other
parts of the country. He has been able to render essential service as
an interpreter, both to the natives and government, in the courts.

A circumstance occurred about two years ago, which was the means
of setting Mr. Threlkeld’s whole conduct in its true light before the
public.

The Rev. Dr. Lang, a minister of considerable notoriety in New
South Wales, established a newspaper, which was in the habit of hold-
ing up and assailing all the abuses in the colony. Among others, he
attacked Mr. Threlkeld, accusing him of malversation, unfaithfulness,
and incapacity in his trust, and in a style of gross abuse, seconded by
vulgar doggerel, gave grounds to the belief that he was actuated by any
other than a proper zeal in the cause of missions. After great for-
bearance, Mr. Threlkeld wrote him a letter of remonstrance, which
was at once published in the newspaper, accompanied with insulting
comments. Mr. Threlkeld then instituted an action for libel, and
obtained a verdict in his favour, which, although the damages were
only nominal, is an uncommon thing in New South Wales, when a
libel case is submitted to a jury. In the progress of the trial, the merits
and sacrifices of the missionary were made apparent, and the faithful-
ness and diligence with which he had laboured, under so many disad-
vantages, became well known, for ever silencing the aspersions of his
enemies. He had, in consequence, the satisfaction, not long since, of
receiving a letter from the directors of the London Missionary Society,
expressing their regret that they should have been led into such unjust
suspicions and misplaced severity towards him.

Macquarie Lake communicates with the sea by a narrow inlet. Its
shape is irregular, having several long narrow bays extending into the

. NEW SOUTH WALES. 253

land, and from this cause it is in reality much more extensive than it
appears. The soil around is sterile, and its principal ingredient is
sandstone. The lake is surrounded by the sombre green of the gum
trees, and the landscape is uninviting.

Many ant-hills were passed, each appearing to contain a numerous
colony of different species of ants. They are of various colours, red,
black, gray, and yellow, and of all sizes, from that of minute animal-
cule, to that of a wasp. Most of them were said to give poisonous
bites, and those of the largest kinds had visible stings. Most of the
snakes, small as well as large, are venomous to a high degree.

Mr. Threlkeld, like many others in the colony, had convict servants
assigned for thé use of the station. It is thought almost impossible for
a settler to manage his afiairs without them, and it is somewhat
curious to see a clergyman associated and in daily intercourse with
thieves and abandoned felons. There is scarcely a person in comfort-
able circumstances, who has not derived much of his fortune from
their exertions, although not without suffering very much from the
constant vexations attendant on such aid. Mr. Threlkeld had hired a
family of emigrants as intermediate assistants, but he was doubtful if
he had benefited himself by it.

The difference between the two kinds of servants is great. The
convict, on the one hand, is obliged to do the work his master appoints,
and in the exact manner he directs; but the master suffers from his
vices and dishonesty ; and on the other hand, the emigrant is under all
his English prejudices: self-willed, and conscious of his superiority
over the other servants, he will not be driven, and is hardly to be
coaxed into adopting the necessary alterations which the difference of
soil and climate requires. Both try, in no small degree, the temper of
a settler in New South Wales.

At Mr. Threlkeld’s, Mr. Hale saw M’Gill, who was reputed to be
one of the most intelligent natives; and his portrait was taken by Mr.
Agate. His physiognomy was much more agreeable than that of the
other blacks, being less strongly marked with the peculiarities of his
race. He was about the middle size, of a dark chocolate colour, with
fine glossy black hair and whiskers, a good forehead, eyes not deeply
set, a nose that might be described as aquiline, although depressed and
broad at the base. It was very evident that M’Gill was accustomed te
teach his native language, for when he was asked the name of any
thing, he pronounced the word very distinctly, syllable by syllable, so
that it was impossible to mistake it. Though acquainted with the
doctrines of Christianity, and all the comforts and advantages of civi-
lization, it was impossible for him to overcome his attachment to the

am i

254 NEW SOUTH WALES. .

customs of his people, and he is always a prominent leader in the
corrobories and other assemblies. 7

WARSSAS

UIC

SENS :
QA ws

M’GILL.

Mr. Threlkeld has a son, who is also engaged in missionary labours
near Darling river, about three hundred miles in the interior, and
who understands the language. A boy was sent down by the son for
the father to take charge of. There was no difference perceived
between him and the natives of the Hunter river.

NEW HOLLAND BOY.

Inquiries for their implements of the chase and warfare, caused
M’Gill, King Ben, and Shingleman, to set to work to furbish up their

NEW SOUTH WALES. 255

arms, including spears, shields, boomerengs, clubs, &c. The natives
are seldom seen without arms, for they have not only to fear attacks
from other tribes, but assaults from their own. This not unfrequently
happens; and it is not long since the brother of King Ben was speared
while asleep, for some private grudge, by Dismal; and it is said that
Big-headed Blackboy, who has already been introduced to the reader,
has committed several murders, and not long since burnt his mother
nearly to death, in revenge for the loss of his brother, who died whilst
under her care. This was not because he had any suspicions of unfair
conduct, but simply from one of the unaccountable customs or super-
stitions of these people, which holds the nearest relative of a person
accountable for his death, if it takes place under his care.

From the destructive influence of their own vices, and those of the
community, these blacks are rapidly dying off. As an instance of
this, Mr. Threlkeld mentioned that a tribe which occasionally visited
the lake, and consisted at the time of his arrival of sixty, is now
reduced, after a lapse of fifteen years, to twenty, only five of whom
are females.

During our travellers’ stay, two natives of some note arrived: King
Ben and King Shingleman. The natives had no distinctions of rank
among themselves, but when a native had performed any great service
for one of the settlers, he was rewarded by giving him a large oval
brass plate, with his royal title inscribed thereon. At first the natives
were greatly pleased and proud of this mark of distinction, but as is
the case every where, when the novelty was over, and these honorary
medals became common, they began to hold them in disrepute, and
now prefer the hard silver.

Sheep-shearing is performed in the neighbourhood of Lake Mac-
quarie by men who make it their business. This operation was
witnessed by some of our party, and was thought to be performed in a
slovenly manner. It generally takes place in November and December.

Some others of our gentlemen paid a visit to Peuen Beuen, the
seat of Mr. Stevens, near the head waters of the Hunter river. The
route was by steamboat to Newcastle and thence to Maitland. The
river at Newcastle is about one-third of a mile across, and the dis-
tance to Maitland, by water, about thirty miles, although it is only
about twenty miles by land. The tide reaches Maitland, where’ the
water is found to be brackish.

The banks of the river are extended flats. This is one of the
principal agricultural districts of the colony, the soil enjoying the
advantages of being naturally irrigated; but on the other hand, the
crops are liable to destruction from heavy floods. These floods fre-

256 NEW SOUTH WALES.

quently occur, when there has been no sign of bad weather on the
coast; but storms of rain occur seventy or eighty miles in the interior,
which raise the streams thirty or forty feet, doing great damage.

On the way up the Hunter, a steamboat was seen building. The
best ship-timber is said to be the flooded gum tree. The steamboat
stopped at Green Hill, and they rode to Maitland, about three miles.
Maitland is a widely-scattered village, with many neat dwellings,
stores, and shops, &c., built of brick and other materials, and much
better than could have been anticipated. Near Harper’s Hill, a place
noted for the fossils which have been found there, a chain-gang was
seen at work on the road, with their attendant guard. They were
generally young and hearty-looking men.

Some natives were passed who were quite naked, but they did not
attempt to approach. There are no wild tribes in this vicinity. These
poor creatures are becoming rapidly exterminated by the whites, who
are not over-scrupulous as to the means. The. natives have now and
then committed a murder, but in general they are more sinned against
than sinning. It is remarkable that they do not complain of their
lands being taken from them, but confine their lamentations to the
destruction of the kangaroos by the whites; and they think it very
hard that they should be punished for killing the white man’s kangaroo,
(a sheep or a bullock.)

Mr. Hale made a journey to the Wellington Valley, about two hun-
dred and thirty miles to the northwest of Sydney, and on the frontiers
of the colony. It was first occupied, seventeen years ago, as a military
post, when several small brick buildings were erected, and some of the
land, which is considered the most fertile in the colony, brought into
cultivation. It was afterwards converted into a penal station, for a
description of convicts called “Specials,” or such as were superior in
education and social rank.

Tn 1832, it was granted by government to the Church Missionary
Society, in trust for the aborigines, with an annuity of five hundred
pounds, in part as the support of a mission establishment on the
grant; and ever since, there have been two ministers of the Society
resident at the place, employed in endeavouring to convert and
civilize the natives. :

The only conveyance is the mails, unless,a vehicle is purchased, the
outlay for which would be about four hundred dollars. ‘The mail was
taken in preference to this mode, both as avoiding cost and as less
liable to the dangers of journeying alone. On account of the numerous
Bush-rangers and runaway convicts, travelling in New South Wales is
not considered safe. |

NEW SOUTH WALES. 257

The mail leaves Sydney once a week for Wellington Valley. There
is some difficulty in procuring a seat, and the fare is thirty-two dollars
and fifty cents; a very exorbitant charge considering the mode of con-
veyance, which was a two-wheeled vehicle, with seats for five persons.
It had no top, and was in all respects a very uncomfortable convey-
ance. Formerly more commodious coaches were employed; but the
government, finding that the contractors, in their anxiety to obtain
passengers, were accustomed to delay the mail, ordered that none but
two-wheeled vehicles should be used. The party left Sydney about
5 p.m. Three miles from town is an inn at which the mail-carts from
all parts of the country meet, so as to enter the city in company at 8
a.m. For every minute of delay after this hour, the penalty of a
shilling is exacted.

The post-office department is now under excellent regulations ; the
number of miles of mail route travelled in the colony is nearly three
hundred thousand, and the gross revenue amounts to eight thousand
three hundred and ninety pounds, being two thousand pounds more
than the expenditure. The rate of postage is high, especially on ship-
letters. The post was established in 1828, and at the end of the first
year only eight post-offices were opened. In 1839, there were forty,
showing the great increase of population and business.

The route towards Wellington Valley lay through Paramatta; and
about 11 p.m. Penrith, thirty-six miles from Sydney, and on the
Nepean, was reached. The mail left Penrith at four o’clock in the
morning, and crossed the river on a raft. The Nepean, on its course
towards the sea, assumes the name of Hawkesbury, and becomes the
largest stream in the eastern part of the colony. At Penrith it is about
one hundred and fifty yards wide, and forms the eastern boundary of
the Emu Plains,—an interval of level ground, five or six miles broad,
between the river and the Blue Mountains.

These mountains are the dividing. range between the lands of the
coast and the interior, and were, for many years after the establishment
of the colony, considered as impassable, although many unsuccessful
attempts to cross them were made previous to the administration of
Governor Macquarie. During his administration, he sent out many
expeditions by land and sea, and in 1814, a passage was effected, and
the plains of Bathurst were discovered. |

On reaching this part of the country, one is no longer surprised that
these mountains were considered impassable. The barrier consists of
a broad belt of mountainous country, about fifty miles in width, and
varying in height from one thousand to three thousand five hundred

feet, according to Mitchell. The route which was followed through
VOL. Il. we ' 33

258 NEW SOUTH WALES.

them was about eighty miles in length, and for the whole distance there
were not more than five or six miles of level, and those are chiefly
due to the planning of the engineers. The road is constantly ascending
or descending, and on every side, as far as the view extends, is a suc-
cession of mountain ridges, their summits rising in detached peaks, and
their declivities terminating in narrow and deep gorges. ‘Their sides
are sometimes clothed with a scanty growth of dark evergreens, but
in very many places presented only bare and rugged masses of brown
sandstone rock. The whole scene for the first forty miles, is wild,
dismal, and monotonous beyond description. In the latter part of the
route through the mountains, the scenery begins to improve, and finally
becomes very striking, the sandstone being succeeded by trap and
granite. The descent of Mount Victoria is celebrated for its beauty
throughout the colony. This road was laid out by Major Mitchell, the
Surveyor-General of the colony, and by him the mountain was named.
The descent of this mountain is more than a mile in length, and in some
parts is inclined at an angle of five degrees. The road is cut in the
solid rock, it is hard, smooth, and accurately graduated, and notwith-
standing its great angle of declivity, heavily laden teams ascend with
less difficulty than would be supposed. At the foot, the road is carried
along a high embankment or viaduct, which has been thrown across a
deep chasm, and the river flowing on either side is fine. On the left is
a wide deep gorge, encircled by high and naked precipices topped
with the sombre hue of the gum trees; on the right, an open valley,
with a rivulet winding through it, sloping gently towards the northeast,
gives a totally different current to the feelings. Governor Macquarie
has named this the Vale of Clwyd, after a similar scene in Wales.

A little beyond this descent is the Weatherboard Inn, the land about
which is, according to Major Mitchell, the only spot among the moun-
tains fit for cultivation. He mentions, in order to show the difficulties
the surveyors had to encounter, that one of them, a Mr. Dixon, pene-
trated the valley of the Grose, which, until then, had not been visited,
where he was lost for four days, having been bewildered by the intri-
cate character of the valleys; and when he finally emerged from them,
he, in his official letter, “thanked God he had found his way out of
them.” |

Shortly after leaving the inn, two small rivulets are passed, pursuing
opposite directions. One of them falls into Cox’s river, a branch of
the Hawkesbury; the other, the Fish river, discharges into the Mac-
quarie. Not far distant is Mount Lambie, the last and highest emi-
nence of the range, from whose summit the lighthouse of Port Jackson
is visible, at a distance of sixty miles. The road passes within a few

NEW SOUTH WALES. 259

yards of this place, and it was here that Major Mitchell encamped
when he was employed in laying down his plans for the construction
of it across the whole range. ‘This road will compare advantageously
with almost any work of the kind in any country; and this and other
public improvements are frequently adduced as the benefits conferred
upon the colony by convict labour. There can be but little doubt that
the colonial government has many facilities to carry forward improve-
ments, but I very much question, if all things were taken into the cal-
culation, that it would be found to result in so great a difference as is
generally supposed.

After leaving the mountains, the road leads for several miles through
an undulating country, covered with an open forest of stunted gum
trees, and then comes in sight of the plains of Bathurst. These are
of moderate extent, being little more than the valley through which
the river Macquarie finds a channel. In the month of December there
was no flowing stream, and the river, which at some seasons is a broad
and powerful current, consisted merely of a string of pools.

The appearance of the town of Bathurst disappoints. It consists of
a few hundred houses, scattered in detached groups over the plain.
The absence of trees and cultivation serves to increase the want of
interest in the landscape. The town-plot was first laid out on the
eastern side of the river, but after several houses had been erected, it
was removed to the opposite bank, a circumstance which accounts for
the dispersed appearance of the village. Most of the wealthy in-
habitants have their dwellings two or three miles removed from the
town, among the low hills in the neighbourhood; from which circum-
stance, the importance of the place and the extent of the settlement is
not at first apparent.

The low bottom-land in which Bathurst stands is believed from
various indications to have been at no distant period a lake. At the
time of its discovery it was little better than a marsh, and the Mac-
quarie was flowing in a deep and strong current nearly on a level
with its banks, and was navigable for large boats. The plain was
covered with long prairie grass, which led to the belief that it was of
inexhaustible fertility; but the general opinion of the intelligent resi-
dents is, that for the last twenty years the country west of the Blue
Mountains has been gradually drying up. Lakes which, when first
discovered, were extensive sheets of water, deep enough to float a
seventy-four, are now inconsiderable ponds; swamps have been con-
verted into dry pasture-lands; and there is hardly a river which now
continues running throughout the year. It is remarkable, that in these
lakes and ponds, which have become dry, there are found the stumps

260 NEW SOUTH WALES.

of large trees, showing conclusively that these places must have been
dry at some former period, and that they had continued so for a long
time, giving rise to the opinion that the country must be subject to
long periodical alterations of climate.

On the morning of the 16th, Mr. Hale started in the mail-cart for
Wellington. For the first twenty miles the road was a mere cart-
track, through a piece of hilly country called “the Rocks,” which is a
repetition of the Blue Mountains on a smaller scale. Beyond, there is
a succession of valleys, bounded by ranges of low hills, and covered
with open woods, like a continuous orchard. This kind of country
continues to Wellington Valley, and for the distance of a hundred miles
beyond, when it gradually subsides into a level plain, in which many
exploring parties have continued their progress for weeks, without
meeting any elevation deserving the name of mountain. These plains
stretch away towards the interior of the continent, but of their extent
in that direction nothing certain is yet known.

Twenty miles from Bathurst brought them to an inn kept by a man
named Luck, which had been, about six weeks before, the scene of a
tragical incident. During the absence of the landlord, a party of
Bush-rangers entered the house at night, and began to plunder. Al-
though they had taken the precaution to disguise themselves with
masks of black crape, the landlady recognised one of them, and was
so imprudent as to threaten him with the consequences of his crime,
whereupon the robber without hesitation drew his pistol, and shot her
dead on the spot. What will add to the illustration of the state of
society here, is the fact that the murdered woman, though living with
Luck as his wife, was not married to him. The laxity of morals
which prevails throughout the interior among the lower orders, can
hardly be exaggerated.

The next public house to Luck’s was a low tavern, in which it was
not unusual for stockmen, sheep-shearers, wagon-drivers, &c., to meet
and spend a week in drunkenness and debauchery, dissipating, not
unfrequently, the earnings of a year, amounting to twenty or thirty
pounds. Another inn was kept by the brother of the proprietor, he
having committed some crime for which he had been transported to
Norfolk Island. The last of the public houses was kept by a native
of the colony, and was the best met with. This was another instance
of the good character and general deportment, and temperate habits of
this class, who in spite of their unhappy parentage, evil example, and
inauspicious connexions, offer a remarkable example of the improve-
ment which education, when aided by a change of condition, may
effect in a single generation.

NEW SOUTH WALES. 261

The stopping-places for the next two days were the huts of stock-
men, and dwellings of settlers, all of which resembled each other in
their construction. The sides were made of slabs of wood placed
upright in the earth, and were sometimes fastened to a frame; the
roof was composed of strips of the bark of the gum tree. In the better
sort of houses there were chimneys of brick, and glazed windows;
but these were comparatively few; and in the others an elevated
hearth of clay, in a recess of the hut, supplied the former, the smoke
escaping through the roof. A cupboard, a camp bedstead, a rude
table, with a few stools, supplied the want of furniture. In houses of
this description, were living gentlemen of education and refined habits,
who were submitting to a few years of hardship and banishment from
social life, in hopes of realizing rapid fortunes.

On the 18th, Wellington Valley was reached. It is a beautiful
plain, about four miles square, bounded by low hills, and watered in
seasons of freshet by the Bell river, which winds through it, and falls
into the Macquarie about two miles below the station. During the
season of Mr. Hale’s visit the channel was dry.

The buildings at Wellington consist of a dozen small brick houses,
erected formerly as barracks for soldiers, and having undergone some
slight alteration and repair, they are now inhabited by the missiona

262 NEW SOUTH WALES.

ries and a police magistrate. The former are three in number, two
clergymen and an agriculturist. ‘They have under instruction forty
men, women, and children, but the wandering and capricious habits of
these aborigines render it impossible to keep the adults with them.
Mr. Watson, the eldest of the missionaries, has now with him fifteen
children, whom he does not allow.to leave his house, and is endea-
vouring to teach them the habits of Europeans, and the English
language. He considers them as equal to white children in docility
and intelligence, and several of them had made as much proficiency
in the various branches of education, as could be expected at their
age. They could read and write with facility, and solve questions in
elementary arithmetic. They had a natural aptitude for music, and
they joined with much harmony in singing common English tunes.

Mr. Hale was greatly indebted to the chief missionary, Mr Watson,
for his hospitality and the aid he furnished in his researches into the
language, manners, and customs of the natives.

While at Wellington, he passed a few days at the station of W. O.
Raymond, Esq., one of the magistrates of the colony, who is owner
of a large stock of cattle and sheep. His house is situated on the
Macquarie, and here an opportunity presented itself of seeing the
operation of washing and shearing the sheep. This took place at the
time of their visit, and was, on account of the lateness of the season,
about a month later than usual.

The sheep were plunged and held in a tub of hot water, until their
fleeces were thoroughly soaked; they were then taken out and made
to swim about in one of the deep pools of the Macquarie, for half an
hour; after this they were held under the spout of a pump, where they
were rubbed, combed, and rinsed, until their wool was considered
sufficiently clean. ,

The sheep are shorn when dry, and the fleeces assorted according
to their fineness, in lots, which are afterwards packed in bales of from
two to three hundred pounds: these are then compressed by a lever-press.

The average weight of a fleece is about two and a half pounds.
Mr. Raymond calculates the cost of transportation to Sydney at about
two pence per pound, and the average price of the wool there is
eighteen pence per pound. The freight to England is‘one and a half
pence; and there it has to compete with fine wools from other coun-
tries. As to the question whether this can be done profitably, there is
a considerable difference of opinion between well-informed persons in
the colony. According to some, it can be afforded even at a much
lower rate, but in this estimate the labour of those who are employed
as shepherds is no doubt calculated as being that of convicts, and it

NEW SOUTH WALES. 963

may be questionable whether, when this source of labour fails, the price
will be a remunerating one.

The flocks of sheep kept near Wellington are pastured beyond the
legal limits, which is a meridian line, in the neighbourhood of that
place. Beyond this line the government refuses to make any grants of
land; but any respectable inhabitant, on the payment of ten pounds,
may obtain a license to pasture his flocks beyond this artificial
boundary.

Each flock consists of from five hundred to a thousand sheep, and
is under the care of a single shepherd. There are usually two flocks
to each station, where a servant is employed as hut-keeper. The cost
of these when convicts, is no more than their food and clothing, which
is, however, rendered greater than would at first seem probable, by
the necessity of bringing even flour from Sydney. .

The land and labour may, however, be put down at an expense
merely nominal, for the increase of the flocks at present more than
counterbalances this item; but this advantage will cease when the
assigned convicts are withdrawn from the colony; the wages of a
hired servant will then amount to from seventeen to twenty pounds a
year, exclusive of his clothing and food.

The cost of a sheep varies much in different parts of the colony ;
the average price is from three shillings to one pound, so that the
outlay for the smallest flock would be from seventy-five to five hun-
dred pounds. Comparing this with the price of wool, (eighteen pence
per pound,) an estimate may be formed of the probable profits.

The climate seems peculiarly well adapted to a fine-woolled sheep,
and it is calculated that the flocks double themselves in three or four
years. In 1807, the quantity of wool exported was not more than
two hundred and forty-five pounds, in 1838 and 1839 it exceeded five
millions of pounds. With these facts, the rapid accumulation of for-
tunes in New South Wales will no longer be a mystery.

It is said that the owners of stock have already pushed their stations
one hundred and twenty miles beyond the boundary, and the only im-
pediment to their farther extension seems to be the scarcity of water,
of which the more remote country is almost destitute.

The country about Wellington becomes almost impassable during
heavy rains, for the waters are then so much swelled as to put a stop
to travelling. Mr. Hale was detained a week from this cause; and at
Wellington, the Macquarie, which was before only a string of pools,
became a large river, flowing with a rapid current; yet at a distance
of twenty miles farther down, it had ceased to flow, thus exhibiting
the phenomenon of a large stream losing itself. This remarkable cir-

264 NEW SOUTH WALES.

cumstance is usually ascribed to the many dry pools it has to fill on
its route, each of which must be overflowing before there can be any
farther current; but this is hardly sufficient to account for the almost
sudden disappearance of a body of water sixty feet wide and two feet
deep, flowing at the rate of three or four miles per hour. It would
seem more probable that water may make its way into some of the
vast caverns that are known to exist in this limestone region.

The population beyond the Blue Mountains amounts to ten thousand,
and it is supposed that there is little room for its farther increase, as
all the stations capable of supporting flocks are now occupied, and as
there is little or no chance for the extension of husbandry. Welling-
ton Valley, although it was considered when first discovered, as fitted
to be the granary of the district, has disappointed all such expectations;
and out of seven harvests which have occurred since the missionaries
commenced operations in it, six have wholly or partially failed.

According to Mr. Hale, the number of languages in Australia has
been greatly exaggerated, and so far from every tribe having, as has
been asserted, a separate language, it appears that within the colony,
or from Port Macquarie on the north to Port Philip on the south, and
extending one hundred miles beyond Wellington to the west, com-
prising one-tenth of the whole continent, only six, or at most, eight
dialects are spoken, and that these are so similar in words and gram-
matical construction as to place their identity of origin beyond a doubt.
From some vocabularies of the language spoken at Swan river, it
appears that this similarity of words extends over the entire breadth
of the continent. On the other hand, at Port Essington and Melville
Island, on the northern coast, though the distance is not so great, the
dialect is represented as quite different, notwithstanding the physical
characteristics, habits, and customs, are said to be similar to those of
the other aborigines. It is not believed, however, that the difference
is as great as has been represented, and farther researches, it is
thought, will prove the accounts of it to have been exaggerated. The
language differs radically from that of the Malay tribes, being highly
artificial in its construction, abounding in consonanted sounds, and
remarkable for the number and variety of its grammatical inflexions.
The verbal modifications are as numerous and comprehensive as in
the American languages, but the manner of inflecting is different: the
root or radical verb (which is usually a monosyllable) is placed first,
and to this the various inflexions or modifying syllables are attached,
until they protract the word to an extraordinary length. Thus, in the
word Bamaree, I strike, (Bu or Biim being the root.) Then comes
bumal-guaim, I have struck; bumal-gurani, I struck yesterday; bumal

NEW SOUTH WALES 265

girri, I shall strike; bumalugidyillinga, I strike myself; bumallanna,
we two strike each other; bumalalinga, I strike again; bumalmam-
blina, I permit to strike again; bumabumara, I continue striking;
bumalngarriawagirri, I shall strike to-morrow; and finally, bumal-
bumalalimambilngarriawagirri, I shall permit to continue striking
again to-morrow. Those who are desirous of farther information,
relative to this language, are referred to the results of the Philological
department.

Mr. Peale made a journey into the interior, in the direction of
Argyle, passing through Liverpool, and visiting Camden, Clifton, and
Strathara. The last two were the country-seats of gentlemen. Clifton
is the residence of James M’Arthur, Esq., who possesses a large estate
in its neighbourhood. Mr. M’Arthur, father of the present owner,
was the first who introduced sheep into this country. The facts con-
nected with this transaction, as related to me at Sydney, are as
follows: Captain M’Arthur, about the year 1797, had procured three
rams and five ewes from Captain Kent, R. N., who brought them
from the Cape of Good Hope. They were of Spanish blood, and
had been sent out by the Dutch government to that colony. Captain
M’ Arthur soon found by experience, that his ideas as to the fitness of
the country for the support of this animal, had not been too extra-
vagant.

In 1803, he visited England, and there made a statement, which
was communicated to the government, a copy of which will be found
in Appendix XXIII.

In consequence of this statement, Captain M’Arthur’s plans were
investigated by a committee of the Privy Council—at whose meetings
he was present—and were recommended to be adopted. Some sheep
were supplied from the flock of George IIJ., and with them he embarked
shortly for New South Wales, on board the “ Argo,” which vessel was
so named by himself in reference to the freight she bore.

The government having granted him a large tract of land, in what
was termed in the colony the Cow Pastures, he, in gratitude for the
assistance he had received, named it Camden, after the distinguished
nobleman who had befriended him, and who was then presiding over
the Colonial Department. This is now a princely estate, with a
magnificent mansion and grounds. The land attached to it contains
thirty thousand acres on the Upham river. About the lawns of this
mansion, magnolias and other trees of North America flourish by the
side of the Acacia pendula, &c., and plants indigenous to the Australian
mountains. In the garden are found figs, peaches, pears, plums, and
small fruits in the greatest profusion and of the finest quality, besides

VoL. Il. a 34

266 NEW SOUTH WALES.

mulberries, grapes, pine-apples, oranges, &c., growing in the open air
The grounds are in beautiful order, and their reputation deservedly
great in the colony.

Liverpool is a small town in this neighbourhood, fifteen miles from
Paramatta, to the westward. The government has here a -large
hospital under the direction of Dr. Hill, to whose kindness and atten-
tion Mr. Peale was much indebted. This institution is open to the
disabled and sick of all nations; is a large building, and admirably
kept.

We are sorry that as much cannot be said for the “ Wheelwright
Arms,” at Liverpool, and other hotels in Campbelltown: a larger
supply of spiders, flies, and bed-bugs is a es seen, than that with
which the bed-rooms swarm.

In the neighbourhood of Liverpool, a dam is in progress at the head
of the tide-water of Cook’s river, which empties into Botany Bay.
This is a noble work, and is intended for the purpose of giving Sydney
a supply of water, of which it is much in want. The work is performed
entirely at the expense of government, and the water is led for a Jong
distance by tunnel.

While at Clifton, Mr. Peale made an excursion along the meander-
ing course of the Nepean river. He was much surprised at the
productions of the soil, although these were apparently every where
deficient of moisture; and also at the singular notes of the birds,
particularly the quaint and varied jargon of the Dacelo gigantea,
called in the country, the “Laughing Jackass.” ‘This is an instance
of the ridiculous misapplication of names in this country ; for, besides
belonging to a different class of the animal kingdom, its notes have
little or no resemblance to the braying of an ass, and it feeds upon
a very different kind of food, viz.: lizards and serpents. The bird is
common in this part of the country, but peculiar to New South
Wales. |

There are many native magpies, which have somewhat the appear-
ance of a crow. This bird frequents the neighbourhood of houses, and
its loud and crow-like note is the matin-call of the country residents.
In spite of its hoarse croak, it was spoken of by some as a fine singing
bird.

The wallaby, the smallest species of kangaroo, is common here, as
well as numerous opossums. On reaching the Wallondilly river, the
party stopped to hunt the Ornithorhynchus, which once abounded there,
and succeeded in obtaining specimens, although with much difficulty.
Proceeding on, they reached Strathara, the seat of Achlan M’ Alister,
Esquire, to whose kind attentions the whole squadron are much indebted.

NEW SOUTH WALES. 267

His property contains about sixteen thousand acres of the most fertile
land in the colony. The soil is composed of decomposed trap rock,
and has the appearance of a rich chocolate-coloured mould, which
retains the moisture well. The timber which grows upon it is closer
and heavier than in the sandstone districts: it is principally Eucalyptus
of several species. The grass is thinly spread over the ground, and
the cattle and sheep require a great range. One sheep to an acre is
the allotment, and even in this proportion they suffer in dry seasons.
There are no running streams of water on this estate; but, as has been
remarked, the pools are numerous, a most happy circumstance for the
country, for from these alone can the cattle be supplied. Argyle is
the only place where springs were seen in this part of the country, and
they are scanty. The crops of wheat were unusually good, but they
were the first that had been collected for three years.

The variety of birds seen here, and the brilliancy of their plumage,
are characteristic of Australia. All the birds are remarkable for the
closeness of their plumage, and the neatness of their form; many of
the species are peculiar to Australia, and are more nearly allied to
those of the western part of the Indian Archipelago than of any other
region. Even this analogy is extremely limited. Many of the Aus-
tralian species are said to be confined to peculiar districts, which they
only leave on emergency, from want of food, &c.

Mr. Coxen, near Peuen Beuen, informed our gentlemen that several
birds had made their appearance around his dwelling that season, that
were not known within a hundred miles of his place before. From the
little that is known of the ornithology of the rest of New Holland, it
seems that the same general character prevails throughout the whole
continent, and there are grounds for believing that there is a complete
diversity in the species from those of New Guinea. As an instance of
this, it may be stated that none of the paradise-birds, so common in the
islands to the north, have been found in Australia; and what appears to
add strength to this opinion, is the fact that the land birds of Norfolk
Island are all known to be peculiar.

The number of parrots that are seen is very great. They usually
occupy the tops of trees, and are remarkable for the rapidity of their
flight, particularly a green species, little larger than a humming-bird,
with which the trees occasionally swarm. Other birds, hardly known
to the ornithologist, are also numerous; but Mr. Gould, who is eminent
in that department of natural history, is now engaged in making col-
lections, and will probably, ere long, give a full account of the habits
and economy of the Australian birds.

The Australian wood-pecker is the famous bill-bird whose note is

268 NEW SOUTH WALKS.

always hailed with joy by the traveller in these arid regions, as a sign
of the vicinity of water. The sound resembles the click of a stone-
hammer, and the effect of the united notes of several, is similar to the
frog concerts of our springs. According to Mr. Coxen, each bird
utters a single note.

It was remarked that the native animals of Australia are fast disap-
pearing. The kangaroo, once so numerous, is now seldom seen; but
the native dog still commits ravages among the sheep.* Some of the
animals which have become rare are preserved in the Sydney Museum ;
among these are the woombat (Cheropus), and the Ornithorhynchus, in
relation to which so many questions have been raised. Snakes of many
kinds still abound, even in the immediate vicinity of Sydney, whose
bite is said to be fatal, and which is of course much dreaded. The
stories that are related of such poisonous bites, and the dread of them
that animals show, make those who wander through the paths ex-
tremely cautious, particularly as their small size and grassy colour
render them difficult to be seen.

Among the distnguished gentlemen of the colony, to whose hospi-
tality our naturalists were indebted, is John Blaxland, Esq., who resides
at Newington, on the river, near Paramatta. The ladies of his family
are in possession of a handsome hortus siccus of native plants, collected
and prepared by themselves.

A part of this gentleman’s estate consists of extensive salt-works,
formed by drawing the tide-water from the river into ponds. In these
it is evaporated as much as possible by the heat of the sun, and is
afterwards boiled. The quantity of salt made at these works during
the preceding year (1838) was one thousand tons. About seventy
assigned servants (convicts) are employed in the manufacture.

The water of the ocean is far from being the only source of this
necessary of life in Australia. Salt springs are abundant, and almost
all the wells, particularly those of the sandstone region, are said to
afford only brackish water. The small streamlets, and in dry seasons
even the rivers, are found to be salt; and there is hardly a traveller or
navigator, but has given an account of his disappointment in finding
salt water, when every indication gave the promise of fresh.

Major Mitchell attributes the occasional saltness of the Darling
river, to salt springs, or to its passing through beds of rock salt. This
river, as has been stated, has no tributary for more than six hundred —
miles, and has at times little or no current; and it is where the stream
has no sensible motion, that the saltness is most marked. The salt

* The natives had never attempted to domesticate the dog, and all of the species found,
when the country was colonized, were wild.

NEW SOUTH WALES. 269

appears to cover but a small area at any one place, and it has been
observed that within short distances of each other, fresh and salt
rivulets may be seen, pursuing the same direction, and each retaining
its character throughout its whole course.

The lakes in the eastern section of Australia are also nearly all
either salt or brackish. Lake George, situated beyond Goulburn, near
the source of the Yass river, which empties into the Morrumbidgee, is
the largest of these lakes. It is at present only five or six miles in
length, by about four in width, although according to unquestionable
authority, it was, within twelve or fourteen years, sixteen miles long by
twelve wide. Lake Bathurst, which is not far distant from Lake
George, has .also undergone a similar diminution. In the latter lake
there are to be seen stumps of trees, which prove, that although within
a few years a considerable lake, and at present decreasing in its
extent, it had at a former, and that at no remote epoch, been a marsh,
if not actually dry land. Should its present diminution continue, which
must take place if the seasons of drought are not interrupted, it will in
a few years be again dry land.*

The facts observed at these lakes prove in the most conclusive
manner the very great irregularity in the climate of New South Wales.
It would appear from them, that, however great the floods now occa-
sionally experienced are considered, those that have occurred must
have exceeded them, and filled the basins of these lakes, to such a
depth, that within the fifty years that they have been known, the
excess of evaporation has not been sufficient to restore them to their
pristine state.

In conformity with the condition of these lakes, many places now
dry are pointed out, where, within the memory of the settlers, lakes
or ponds existed; and near the course of streams, grass is to be seen
attached to the trunks of trees thirty feet above the present level of the
water, which must have been lodged there by very great floods.

The great and important changes that floods of such extent and
destructive force must produce on the face of the country, may be
imagined, and particularly when like New South Wales it is principally
composed of soft sandstone. To such causes may be ascribed the
numerous coves of the harbours and bays, and the deep ravines which
often break the monotony of the table-land. In relation to the bays

* In the basins of the salt lakes of the interior, plants which grow on the shores of the
ocean are found in abundance; as for instance the Salsola. These lakes even exceed in
saltness the waters of the ocean; those brought by Major Mitchell, and analyzed, contained
one hundred and thirteen grains of dry salt in three ounces of water; the specific gravity of
the water was from 1:0386 to 1:0553.

X2

270 NEW SOUTH WALES.

and coves, Major Mitchell remarks, that they generally have a direc-
tion either from north-northeast to south-southwest, or from west-north-
west to east-southeast. Our geologist observed a coincidence of the
fissures of the sandstone rock with the same points of the compass.
This double and intersecting direction of the fissures, gives to portions
of the rock which are bare, the appearance of an artificial pavement
of enormous blocks. This appearance is well marked, and can be
readily observed in the variegated layers of the sandstone cliffs near
the Heads of Port Jackson.

Earthquakes are occasionally felt in New South Wales. The
recorded accounts of these are necessarily imperfect ; they, however,
show that within the last fifty years, six are known to have occurred,
viz., on the 22d of January, 1785, the 17th January, 1801, the 7th
May, 1804, the 24th September, 1806, the 28th November, 1823, and
the 2d August, 18387. That of 28th November, 1823, was also felt at
Laurie’s Town, Van Diemen’s Land.

As far as could be learnt, these earthquakes did no material damage.
It may, however, be inferred from the nature of the country, that
violent commotions have taken place in former times. Major Mitchell
has stated, and the fact was confirmed by the personal examination of
our geologist, Mr. Dana, that an alteration in the relative level of the
sea is abundantly evident on the cliffs of the coast.

The Burning Mountain of Wingen is something analogous to a
crater, which it was not in the power of any of our parties to reach.
According to Major Mitchell, it appears to be the same kind of pheno-
menon as that described by Professor Buckland and Mr. De la Beche,
caused by the action of rain-water on iron pyrites, which sets fire to
the bituminous shale. The combustion of Wingen extends over an
area of about two miles in extent, and occurs near the summit of a
group of hills, forming part of a low chain which divides the valley of
Kingdom Ponds from that of Page’s river. Blue smoke ascends from
rents and cracks; the breadth of the widest of which measures about
three feet. A red heat appears at the depth of about four fathoms, and
no marks of any extensive change appear on the surface near these
burning fissures, although the growth of large trees in old cracks on
the opposite slope where ignition had ceased, shows that this fire had
continued for a very considerable time. The height of this crater is
about fifteen hundred feet above the level of the sea.

The trade of Australia is greatly on the increase. Nearly all of it
centres in Sydney; and this will account for the rapid rise of that
city, which not only has the finest port, but the most central position
as respects the east coast. By a reference to the official documents in

NEW SOUTH WALES. 271

the Appendix, from XIV. to XX., the rapid. increase of the commerce
of Sydney will be seen; but they give only an imperfect idea of the
life and animation that this port exhibits, or of the bustle attendant on
the receiving of produce and forwarding of supplies to the interior, on
the arrival of emigrants. ‘The warehouses, and all works connected
with this trade, are of a durable description. The number of vessels
that entered Port Jackson in 1826, was sixty-two, and their tonnage
seventeen thousand one hundred and seventy-eight tons; in 1840 they
had increased to seven hundred and nine, and the tonnage to one
hundred and seventy-eight thousand nine hundred and fifty-eight tons.
The value of imports in 1826 was sixty thousand pounds; in 1840, it
had increased to three millions fourteen thousand one hundred and
eighty-nine pounds. That of exports, in 1826, was one hundred and
six thousand six hundred pounds; in 1840, they amounted to one
million three hundred and ninety-nine thousand six hundred and
ninety-two pounds.

It will also be seen that in the return of vessels built and registered
in 1822, there were but three, of only one hundred and sixty-three
tons; in 1840, one hundred and eleven vessels, the amount of whose
tonnage was thirteen thousand three hundred and forty-nine tons.

But the most remarkable increase is in the exportation of wool,
which in 1822 was only one hundred and seventy-two thousand eight
hundred and eighty pounds, while in 1840 it amounted to eight millions
six hundred and ten thousand seven hundred and seventy-five pounds.
This is not the only instance, for a greater or less increase has oc-
curred in all the productions of the colony. The quantity of timber
exported forms also no inconsiderable item. The returns are referred
to as showing it, in Appendix XXII.

The fisheries begin to claim attention, and in particular the whale-
fishery, as it requires comparatively a small capital, and the returns
are quickly realized. The operations of this fishery are conducted
with great success, a ready market being found at Sydney, and the
great saving by arriving on and returning from their cruising-grounds
without loss of time, adds greatly to their gains. They are, however,
not as adroit in the pursuit of these treasures as our own countrymen;
their vessels are sailed at greater expense, and the officers and crews
less enterprising. The value of this trade and its yearly increase is
exhibited in the official returns, by which it appears that in 1830,
fifty-nine thousand four hundred and seventy-one pounds were derived
from it, while in 1840 it amounted to two hundred and twenty-four
thousand one hundred and forty-four pounds. I heard many com-
plaints that our whalers were in the habit of taking whales and

272 NEW SOUTH WALES.

obtained much of their oil in the bays on the western coast of New
Holland; and the remark was made, that if the colonists were not
brought into collision with the Yankees, they would succeed well
enough. This, I suppose, may be considered as complimentary to
the energy and skill of this enterprising portion of our citizens. The
whales are reported to be fast leaving their old haunts, in consequence
of being disturbed in their calving season, and the places where they
used to abound are now only the resort of a few. It is, therefore, sup-
posed they are abandoning the waters of New Holland for other seas,
where they are less disturbed.

There is now a large export of salted provisions from the colony,
which are well prepared, and there is a considerable trade with the
Mauritius and the Cape of Good Hope; the former supplying sugar,
é&c., in return for the cattle and produce of the dairy; while from the
latter wine is imported in considerable quantities, and other spirits to a
large amount, as has been already noticed.

The declared value of exports of British and Irish produce and
manufactures to New South Wales, for the year ending January 5th,
1840, was one million four hundred and forty thousand four hundred
and forty pounds; and of foreign and colonial produce, two hundred
and eighty-nine thousand and seventy-two pounds. In return for
which the colony sent back, in 1839, six millions eight hundred and
ninety-four thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight pounds of wool,
besides twenty-three thousand barrels of oil.

The number of vessels employed with passengers was four hundred
and sixteen, measuring forty-eight thousand nine hundred and eleven
tons.

The export of wool during 1840 was nearly one million pounds of
wool more; the increase in the number of sheep in the colony during
late years has been very great. In 1796, eight years after the colony
was established, they numbered one thousand five hundred and thirty-
one; in 1805, six thousand seven hundred and fifty-seven; in 1821,
one hundred and twenty thousand ; and in 1839, three millions.

There will also be found in Appendix XIV., an official abstract,
showing the assets, liabilities, capital, and profits of the banks of the
colony, by which it appears that the rate of interest derived from
investment amounts to eleven and a half per cent. for the year 1841.
Business is almost done entirely on credit, and large discounts are
made by the banks for the accommodation of merchants.

The seal-fishery on this coast was formerly very successful; but in
consequence of the immense numbers that were destroyed without
regard to season, they have been almost exterminated, or driven to

NEW SOUTH WALES. O74

new haunts. The seal-fishery, which has heretofore yielded so large
an amount of wealth, will soon be at an end in this quarter of the
world.

It frequently happens that owing to the failure of the harvests, the
colony is under great distress for provisions, Government is erecting
deposits for grain, in order to obviate this difficulty ; one of which is
on an island in the harbour of Port Jackson. Heretofore, on a failure
of the crops, Jarge quantities of flour have been imported from France
and America, and many cargoes of wheat and rice from India.

The commerce with the United States is very limited, and confined
as yet to a single house, in Salem, Massachusetts, which has a few
vessels employed in bringing out flour, tobacco, furniture, ice, &c. In
exchange, wool and hides have been taken to the United States. This
trade has hitherto been profitable; but the uncertainty of crops, and
consequent fluctuation in the market, would, with competition, render
it of no great advantage.

The Library, and Sydney Museum are creditable institutions, parti-
cularly the latter, which contains a large and interesting collection of
native productions. It has only been established a few years. There
is a reading-room attached to the Library, in which are to be found all
the pamphlets and periodicals published in Sydney, and many of those
of Europe. Soon after our arrival, we received an invitation to visit
these institutions at all times; a privilege which afforded us much
pleasure and instruction, and for which we are greatly indebted to the
committee and the librarian.

Great Britain has three other colonies in Australia, at Swan river,
on the west coast, South Australia on the south, and North Australia
on the north coast. The former is considered, in the colony of New
South Wales, as a bad speculation, and it is alleged that it needs the
aid of convicts or slaves for its advancement. It is believed that all
the first settlers, if not completely ruined, have been struggling with
difficulties, and its growth, even should it continue, will be slow and
precarious.

Orders were received from the home department to raise the
minimum price of land; but it being left optional with the Governor,
he had declined doing it, under the plea that if individuals would sell
land for two shillings and sixpence, it was idle to raise that of govern-
ment to twelve shillings, particularly as the price allowed to individuals
for surrendering their lands was but one shilling and sixpence. This
step, of raising the minimum price of crown lands, I was informed,
had given much dissatisfaction, and was generally believed to have
originated in the desire to force colonization to South Australia, which

VOL. Il. 3D

214. NEW SOUTH WALES.

has lately increased in an extraordinary degree; in 1886, its popula-
tion was only two hundred, and in 1839, eight thousand two hundred
and fifty, principally owing to the encouragement held out by the funds
derived from the sale of lands. Adelaide and Port Lincoln are the
two principal points, and the latter, according to the accounts of those
interested, “ has every advantage under the sun!”

The journey over land from Yass to Adelaide, it is said, can be ~
performed with cattle and sheep in sixty days. The schemers here
are as eager and enthusiastic for improvements as with us, and among
them much stress is laid upon the difficulties of inland transportation, to
overcome which, as the country is too thinly settled for railroads, the
introduction of camels from Africa has been proposed; and it is
believed that the country is well adapted to them.

The population of New South Wales, by the census of 1841, in-
cluding 26,967 convicts, was 130,856. A very minute table of the
census of the above year will be found in Appendix XIIL.

I was not able to obtain any accurate statistical returns of the three
other colonies ; both North and South Australia are rapidly increasing,
particularly the latter: fifteen thousand is believed to be the total
amount of their population and that of West Australia.

To return again to the squadron and our occupations. By the 18th
December, I had finished my observatory duties, and feeling deeply
sensible of the great kindness and attention we had received from not
only the Governor, military, and civil officers, but from all the society,
I gave a lunch at Fort Macquarie previous to delivering it up, and
had the honour of entertaining those who had received us so warmly.
Although the weather was unpropitious, many of our friends presented
themselves; the affair passed off in great good-fellowship, and we had
the satisfaction of seeing our guests retire apparently gratified. Owing
to the weather, the number of ladies was not so great as we had
hoped, but there were enough to add dancing to the other amusements
of the occasion. Many patriotic toasts were exchanged, and an effect
seldom witnessed produced on the company by the picture drawn by
the Polish Count Strezleski, (well known in our country,) of the recep-
tion his destitute countrymen had met with on our shores, and the
liberality of our government in providing for them. Those who heard
his statement will not soon forget the thrill it produced.

During our stay at Port Jackson, our vessels were much visited by
all classes; and a great many inquiries made respecting our accom-
modations, &c. All seemed disappointed at not being able to see the
same complete outfits in our vessels as they had seen described in the
published accounts of those of the English expedition commanded by

NEW SOUTH WALES. 275

Captain James Ross. They inquired, whether we had compartments
in our ships to prevent us from sinking? How we intended to keep our-
selves warm? What kind of antiscorbutic we were to use? and where
were our great ice-saws! To all of these questions I was obliged to
answer, to their great apparent surprise, that we had none, and to agree
with them that we were unwise to attempt such service in ordinary
cruising vessels; but we had been ordered to go, and that was enough!
and go we should. This want of preparation certainly did not add to
the character for wisdom of our government, with this community ;
but they saw us all cheerful, young, and healthy, and gave us the
character, that I found our countrymen generally bear, of recklessness
of life and limb. ‘The tender Flying-Fish excited their astonishment
more than the ships, from her smallness and peculiar rig; and, altoge-
ther, as a gentleman told me, most of our visiters considered us doomed
to be frozen to death. I did not anticipate such a fate, although I
must confess I felt the chances were much against us, in case we were
compelled to winter within the Antarctic. From every calculation,
we could not stow quite twelve months’ provision, even upon short
allowance; our fuel was inadequate to last us more than seven months,
and the means of protecting ourselves in the ships for winter quarters,
were any thing but sufficient. My mind naturally suffered a great
deal of anxiety on all these points, and I felt myself not a little de-
pressed by it, particularly when I considered the state of the Peacock.
The carpenter of that ship, shortly after our arrival at Sydney, had
reported to her commander, Captain Hudson, that the whole of her
upper-works were rotten, and required a survey. The vessel was
quietly examined into without holding one, and her state was found
even worse than represented. I had many long consultations with
Captain Hudson, and found it was impossible to put upon her the
necessary repairs, without her giving up the southern cruise. We
made up our minds that it was absolutely necessary for the credit of
the Expedition and the country for her to perform it; for we were
well satisfied that improper imputations and motives, would be
ascribed to us, if she did not, and was detained undergoing repairs,
in a state of inactivity, during the season for operations in the high
southern latitudes. The necessity I felt of subjecting so many lives in
so unworthy a ship, caused me great anxiety during the whole cruise.
The official papers forwarded to the Secretary of the Navy, upon this
subject, will be found in Appendix XXI.

All the vessels underwent the necessary repairs of calking, &c., and
the Flying-Fish was furnished with two new masts of the Kaurie pine
of New Zealand, some feet shorter and larger in diameter than her
former ones.

276 NEW SOUTH WALES.

A few days before our departure, the British frigate Druid, Lord
John Russel, commander, arrived from England, with Captain Hobson,
R. N., the new Governor (under the name of consul) for New Zealand.
He was accompanied by a large retinue, and also had all kinds of faci-
lities for his permanent and comfortable establishment there, among
which was a house in frame.

The season of our visit to Sydney, was that of their summer, (De-
cember,) and it was somewhat difficult for us to realize the luxuriance
of vegetation about us. We could hardly become familiar with win-
dows and doors entirely open at Christmas time. Although it was
properly the out-of-town season, we found much gaiety existing, and
we have great pleasure in acknowledging the attentions and civilities
extended to us during the whole of our stay.

The facilities for outfits here are such as are not to be found else-
where in the Pacific. The mechanics are good, but as artisans are
scarce their wages are exorbitant, and the employer is, for the most
part, compelled to put up with their demands. From our experience,
we inferred they are not to be depended on, and require to be well
watched to obtain the requisite quantity of labour from them. Their
rations of grog were always a stipulation made by them, and had to
be complied with.

During our stay here, our men behaved well. They all received
leave in their turn to visit the shore, and I felt gratified in not having
a single case reported to me of bad behaviour on shore.

As our departure drew near, one and all of us felt and expressed
regret at leaving such kind friends. In very many places and families,
we had found ourselves at home, and were always received with that
kindness that showed us we were welcome. The seasons, with many
other things, may be reversed, yet the hospitality of old England is
found here as warm and fresh as ever it was in the parent land. It
would be impossible to mention all those to whom we feel indebted for
various kindnesses and attentions, or even to cite those from whom the
Expedition received many accessions to its collections. Notwithstand-
ing I have mentioned many things that have struck us as requiring
great reform, yet the whole impression left on my mind is, that it is
a glorious colony, which the mother country, and the whole Anglo-
Saxon race, may well be proud of, and that it ought to claim much
more attention than it apparently does, from the home government.

After writing our farewell letters, we took our Christmas dinner
with many of our friends, and on the morning of the 26th December,
at six o’clock—the very day that had been set apart for my departure,
before sailing from the United States—we weighed our anchors and
stood down the bay. The day was fine, the breeze light and contrary,

NEW SOUTH WALES. ATT

and we did not get to sea till the afternoon. When we were about
passing the Heads, our worthy consul and some others of our country-
men took their leave, and by way of dispelling the gloom that was
naturally felt at parting, and to show the good wishes entertained for
their welfare, we gave them at parting several hearty cheers, and then
bore away on our course.

It falling calm, the Vincennes and tender were obliged to anchor
between the Heads. The Peacock and Porpoise succeeded in getting
outside, and when the tide made, we weighed and stood after them.
On getting to sea, although every search had been previously made by
the master-at-arms, I learned that there were two strangers on board,
who had contrived to evade his watchfulness, and on beating to
quarters, and mustering the crew, they were among the forthcoming.
Their appearance was any thing but convict-like; but I felt after all
the attentions heaped upon us, it was seemingly but an ungrateful
return, to appear to have committed an infraction of their laws, and
this after I had received intimation that an attempt would be made
through us, to effect desertion among the troops. From their appear-
ance and carriage I thought they showed the drill of soldiers, and at
once told them and the assembled crew, that they were mistaken if
they expected to be harboured as such, and that on my return from the
south, I should send them back to Sydney to be delivered over. I
then entered them on the rolls for provisions only, until I ascertained
whether they were entitled to receive compensation; and after telling
the men they must look forward to a hard and dangerous cruise, and
saying a few words relative to what was expected of them by the

“country and myself, I enjoined upon them the necessity of economy in
their food and clothing, in aiding me in my endeavours to promote
their health and comfort. We then piped down, and set about pre-
paring the ship for the Antarctic cruise, the events of which will be
detailed in the following chapters.

DAISY BANK,

fa,
i f

Cee Pe Xe

CONTENTS.

PRELIMINARY REMARKS— PROCEEDINGS OF THE SQUADRON TO THE SECOND OF
JANUARY—SEPARATION OF THE FLYING-FISH AND PEACOCK—FIRST ICEBERG SEEN—
FALL IN WITH THE ICY BARRIER—PORPOISE LOST SIGHT OF—PROCEEDINGS OF THE
PEACOCK FROM THE THIRD OF JANUARY—HER VISIT TO MACQUARIE’S ISLAND—
FIRST ICEBERG SEEN BY HER—SHE FALLS IN WITH THE ICY BARRIER—PROCEEDINGS
OF THE PORPOISE—SEA-ELEPHANTS SEEN AND TAKEN—LAND SEEN FROM ALL THE
VESSELS—PROCEEDINGS OF THE VINCENNES FROM THE SIXTEENTH OF JANUARY—
SHE ENTERS A DEEP BAY IN THE BARRIER—PEACOCK AND PORPOISE SEEN—PEA-
COCK SPOKEN—LAND DISTINCTLY SEEN FROM THE VINCENNES AND PEACOCK —
FIGHT BETWEEN A WHALE AND KILLER, SEEN FROM THE PEACOCK—PROCEEDINGS
OF THE PEACOCK—SOUNDINGS OBTAINED BY HER—HER PERILOUS SITUATION AND
PROVIDENTIAL ESCAPE—HER CRIPPLED CONDITION—CAPTAIN HUDSON RESOLVES TO
RETURN—HIS ADMIRABLE CONDUCT, AND THAT OF HIS OFFICERS AND CREW.

(279)

2 fama
AO Tn ie
gist, Weta dia!
4 Rae Fa es;

CHAPTER IX.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE,

1840,

Tue subjects of which [ am about to treat in the following chapters
are exclusively nautical. I shal] therefore adopt in treating them
more of the form of a log-book, and follow the daily order of their
occurrence with more strictness than I have hitherto considered
necessary. This will be done in order to illustrate more fully the nature
of the remote regions we traversed, and for the purpose of giving a
more exact relation of the incidents of this part of our cruise,—inci-
dents that 1 cannot but hope have made this part of our labours
particularly interesting to all of our countrymen who possess a
feeling of national pride.

The credit of these discoveries has been claimed on the part of one
foreign nation, and their extent, nay, actual existence, called into ques-
tioneby another; both having rival expeditions abroad, one at the same
time, the other the year succeeding.

Each of these nations, with what intent I shall not stop to inquire,
has seemed disposed to rob us of the honour by underrating the impor-
tance of their own researches, and would restrict the Antarctic land to
the small parts they respectively saw. However willing I might be in
a private capacity to avoid contesting their statements, and let truth
make its own way, I feel it due to the hononr of our flag to make a
proper assertion of the priority of the claim of the American Expe-
dition, and of the greater extent of its discoveries and researches.

That land does exist within the Antarctic Circle is now confirmed
by the united testimony of both French and English navigators.
D’Urville, the celebrated French navigator, within a few days after
land was seen by the three vessels of our squadron, reports that his

VOL. Il. ee 36 eN

282 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

boats landed on a small point of rocks, at the place (as I suppose)
which appeared accessible to us in Piner’s Bay, whence the Vincennes
was driven by a violent gale; this he called Clarie Land, and testifies
to his belief of the existence of a vast tract of land, where our view of
it has left no doubt of its existence. Ross, on the other hand, pene-
trated to the latitude of 79° S. in the succeeding year, coasted for some
distance along a lofty country connected with our Antarctic Continent,
and establishes beyond all cavil the correctness of our assertion, that
we have discovered, not a range of detached islands, but a vast
Antarctic Continent. How far Captain Ross was guided in his search
by our previous discoveries, will best appear by reference to the chart,
with a full account of the proceedings of the squadron, which I sent
to him, and which I have inserted in Appendix XXIV. and Atlas.
Although I have never received any acknowledgment of their receipt
from him personally, yet I have heard of their having reached his
hands a few months prior to his Antarctic cruise. Of this, however, I
do not complain, and feel only the justifiable desire to maintain the
truth in relation to a claim that is indisputable. The following narra-
tive must, I feel satisfied, leave no doubt in any unprejudiced mind of
the correctness of the assertion that we have discovered a vast conti-
nent; but I would ask in advance, who was there prior to 1840, either
in this country or in Europe, that had the least idea that any large
body of land existed to the south of New Holland? and who is there
that now doubts the fact, whether he admits it to be a vast continent,
or contends that it is only a collection of islands ?

Examine all the maps and charts published up to that time, and
upon them will any traces of such land be found? They will not, and
for the very best of reasons—none was known or even suspected to
exist. We ourselves anticipated no such discovery ; the indications of
it were received with doubt and hesitation; I myself did not venture to
record in my private journal the certainty of land, until three days
after those best acquainted with its appearance in these high latitudes
were assured of the fact; and finally, to remove all possibility of
doubt, and to prove conclusively that there was no deception in the
case, views of the same land were taken from the vessels in three
different positions, with the bearings of its peaks and promontories, by
whose intersection their position is nearly as well established as the
peaks of any of the islands we surveyed from the sea.

All doubt in relation to the reality of our discovery gradually wore
away, and towards the close of the cruise of the Vincennes along the
icy barrier, the mountains of the Antarctic Continent became familiar
and of daily appearance, insomuch that the log-book, which is guard-

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 283

edly silent as to the time and date of its being first observed, now
speaks throughout of “ the land.”

After leaving Sydney we had, until the 31st December,* fine
weather and favourable winds. We took advantage of these, and all
sail was crowded on the vessels of the squadron. At the above date we
had reached the latitude of 43° S.

Under such circumstances, the usual order of sailing, in a line
abreast, was easily maintained, and the communications between the
vessels were frequent. On the 31st of December, I issued the sailing
instructions for the cruise, which will be found in Appendix XXV.

During this favourable weather, all hands were employed in tighten-
ing the ports, in order to secure the interior of the vessels as much as
possible from the cold and wet, which were to be apprehended in the
region to which we were bound. For this purpose, after calking all
the openings, the seams were covered with tarred canvass, over which
strips of sheet-lead were nailed. The sailors exhibited great interest
in these preparations, and studiously sought to make every thing
snug; all useless articles were stowed away in the hold, for we were
in truth full to overflowing, and places at other times sacred were now
crowded.

It was fortunate that the weather for the first few days was so
favourable; for so full was every place, that we had been compelled
to stow bread in the launch and cutter, and this in bulk; for the
quantity was so much beyond that which had been carried on any
former occasion, that a sufficient number of bags were not to be had,
and in the hurry of its reception on board, time had not been found to
provide them. Every ounce of bread thus exposed was looked to with
solicitude, for there was a chance that all of it might be needed.

Among other preparations, rough casings of boards were built
around all the hatches, having doors furnished with weights and
pulleys, in order to insure that they should not be left open. Having
thus provided for the exclusion of cold air, I contented myself with
preparations for keeping the interior of the vessel at a temperature no
higher than 50°. I deemed this preferable to a higher temperature, in
order to prevent the injurious effects which might be produced by
passing suddenly from below to the deck. I conceived it far more
important to keep the air dry than warm, particularly as a lower
temperature would have the effect of inducing the men to take exercise
for the purpose of exciting their animal heat.

* During the 29th, 30th, and 31st December, the sea was very phosphorescent ; tempera-
ture 30°.

284 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

Aware that warm and dry clothing was an object of the first im-
portance, inspections of the men’s feet and dress were held morning
and evening, in which the wearing of a suitable number of garments
was insisted upon, as well as the greatest personal cleanliness. With
the same views, the drying-stoves were particularly attended to; and
that every part under deck might be effectually and quickly freed of
moisture, additional stoves had been procured at Sydney. Thermo-
meters were hung up in proper places, and frequently consulted, in
order by following their indications to secure an equable temperature,
and at the time to ascertain when the use of stoves might be dispensed
with, in whole or in part. The latter was an important consideration,
for we were under the necessity of husbanding our stock of fuel, by
expending it only when absolutely necessary.

We also took advantage of the fine weather to bend all our best
sails, and to shift our top-gallant masts.

The 1st January was one of those days, which are termed, both at
sea and on shore, a weather-breeder. The sea was smooth and placid,
but the sky was in places lowering, and had a wintry cast, to which
we had long been strangers; the temperature shortly began to fall,
the breeze to increase, and the weather to become misty. In a few
hours we were sailing rapidly through the water, with a rising sea,
and by midnight it was reported that the tender Flying-Fish was
barely visible. I shortened sail, but it was difficult to stop our way ;
and on the morning of the 2d of January, the fog was dense, and the
Peacock and Porpoise only were in sight; we hove-to, and the Pea-
cock and Porpoise were ordered to stand east and west, in order to
intercept the tender, but they returned without success; we also fired
guns in hopes of being heard. In the afternoon, I deemed it useless to
wait any longer for her, and that I must take the chance of falling in
with her at Macquarie Island, our first appointed place of rendezvous,
—a visit to which I had flattered myself might have been avoided, but
which it became necessary now to make. We accordingly proceeded
on our course for that island, with all sail set. ‘This separation of the
tender took place in the latitude of 48° S., and she was not again seen
until our return. The officers and crew were not slow in assigning to
the Flying-Fish a similar fate with her unfortunate mate, the Sea-Gull.
Men-of-war’s men are prone to prognosticate evil, and on this occasion
they were not wanting in various surmises. Woful accounts were
soon afloat of the distress the schooner was in when last seen,—and
this in quite a moderate sea.

The barometer now began to assume a lower range} and the tem-
perature to fall below 50°. On the 3d, the fog continuing very thick,

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 285

the Peacock got beyond hearing of our horns, bells, drums, and guns,
and was parted with. This, however, I did not now regret so much,
as it was of little consequence whether we sought one or two vessels
at our rendezvous, although it might cause a longer detention there.

The wind was now (5th January) veering rapidly to the northwest,
with some thunder and lightning, and we in consequence expected the
wind to haul to the southwest, but to my surprise, it went back to the
northeast, with thick rainy weather. This return of the wind to its
old quarter followed a fall of the barometer to 29-60 in., and in a few
hours afterwards to 29-30 in., while the weather continued moderate ;
a large number of albatrosses, Port Egmont hens, and petrels, were
seen.

For the last few days we were unable to get any observations, but
on the 6th we were favoured with a sight of the sun, and found our-
selves in the latitude of 53° 30’ S., and longitude 157° 35’ E. Our
variation had increased to fifteen and a half degrees easterly. This
being a fine day, we completed. our calking, and the more effectual
securing of the ship. At midnight we were about fifty miles from
Macquarie Island.

The morning of the 7th was misty, with squally weather. A heavy
sea rising, and a strong gale setting in, we lost sight of the Porpoise
for a few hours. Being unable to see beyond an eighth of a mile, it
was thought imprudent to run, for fear of passing the island, and we
hove-to to await its moderating. It cleared at noon, and we obtained
an observation, by which we found ourselves in latitude 54° 20'S.,
and longitude 160° 47’ EK. I found that we had been carried to the
eastward upwards of twenty miles in less than eighteen hours; this,
with the wind hauling to the southwest, brought us to leeward of the
island, ‘and the sea and wind increasing, I saw it was useless to
attempt to reach it without great loss of time. I therefore bore off
to the southward for our second rendezvous, Emerald Island, or its
supposed locality.

On the morning of the 8th, the wind, which continued from the
same quarter, with heavy cumulous clouds, began to moderate, and
we were enabled to make more sail. By our observations, we found
a current setting to the southeast, of one mile an hour. Our longitude
was 162° 13’ E., latitude 55° 38’ S. The barometer stood at 30-00 in.;
the temperature had fallen to 38°; and this change, on account of the
rawness of the air, was much felt by the crew.

During the 9th we passed the site of Emerald Isle, situate, as has
been stated, in latitude 57° 15’ S., and longitude 162° 30’ E., but saw
nothing of it, nor any indications of land, which I therefore infer does

286 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

not exist in the locality where it is laid down. We again experienced
the southeast current of twenty miles a day. Our variation had in-
creased to twenty-two degrees easterly. Making our course with all
sail set, the Porpoise in company, we passed to-day some pieces of
kelp. The temperature continued at 38°. Numerous flocks of gray
petrels around us.

The 10th we encountered the first iceberg, and the temperature of
the water fell to 832°. We passed close to it, and found it a mile long,
and one hundred and eighty feet in height. We had now reached the
latitude of 61° 08' S., and longitude 162° 32’ K. The current to-day
set in the same direction as before, about half a mile per hour. The
second iceberg seen was thirty miles, and the third about fifty-five
miles south of the first. These ice-islands were apparently much
worn by the sea into cavities, exhibiting fissures as though they were
ready to be rent asunder, and showed an apparent stratification, much
inclined to the horizon. ‘The weather now became misty, and we had
occasionally a little snow. I congratulated myself that we had but
few on the sick-list, and all were in high spirits at the novelty of the
cruise. We continued to meet icebergs of different heights, some of
which, though inclined to the horizon, had a plane upper surface.

11th. The fair wind from the northwest, (accompanied with a light
mist, rendering objects on the horizon indistinct,) still enabled us to
pursue our course southerly. Icebergs became so numerous as to
compel us occasionally to change our course. They continued of the
same character, with caverns worn in their perpendicular sides, and
with flat tops, but the latter were now on a line with the horizon.

Towards 6 p. m., we began to perceive smaller pieces of ice, some of

which were not more than an eighth of a mile in length, floating as it
were in small patches. As the icebergs increased in number, the sea
became smoother, and there was no apparent motion. Between 8 and
9 p. m., a low point of ice was perceived ahead, and in a short time
we passed within it. There was now a large bay before us. As the
vessels moved rapidly, at 102 p. m. we had reached its extreme limits,
and found our further progress entirely stopped by a compact barrier
of ice, enclosing large square icebergs. The barrier consisted of
masses Closely packed, and of every variety of shape and size. We
hove-to until full daylight. The night was beautiful, and every thing
seemed sunk in sleep, except the sound of the distant and low rustling
of the ice, that now and then met the ear. We had now reached the
latitude of 64° 11'S., longitude 164° 30' E., and found our variation
twenty-two degrees easterly. One and all felt disappointed, for we had
flattered ourselves that the way was open for further progress to the

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. QR7

southward, and had imbibed the impression (from the extraordinary
weather we had had at Sydney, and the reports of icebergs having
been seen farther to the northward than usual, by all the vessels
arriving) that the season would be an open one. What surprised me
most was a change in the colour of the water to an olive-green, and
some faint appearances resembling distant land; but as it was twilight,
and I did not believe the thing credible, I put no faith in these indica-
tions, although some of the officers were confident they were not
occasioned by icebergs. The barometer stood at 29-200 in.; the tem-
perature of the air 33°, water 32°. We lay-to until four o’clock. As
it grew light, on the 12th, a fog set in so thick that we lost sight of the
Porpoise, and could not hear any answer to our signals. I therefore
determined to work along the barrier to the westward.

We were all day beating in a thick fog, with the barrier of ice close
to us, and occasionally in tacking brought it under our bow; at other
times we were almost in contact with icebergs. During the whole
day we could not see at any time further than a quarter of a mile, and
seldom more than the ship’s length. The fog, or rather thick mist,
was forming in ice on our rigging. From the novelty of our situation,
and the excitement produced by it, we did not think of the danger.

I shall now leave the Vincennes and Porpoise pursuing their course
to the westward with a head wind, and bring the Peacock up to the
barrier.

Previously to parting company on the 3rd of January, the crew of
that ship had also been engaged in building hurricane-houses, calking,
and chintzing, to secure them from the wet and cold. After parting
company, Captain Hudson immediately steered for the first rendezvous,
Macquarie Island, and was more fortunate than we were in reaching
it, although the Peacock had experienced the same kind of weather
that we had, and currents setting to the eastward. ,

A

FEB LA =

MACQUARIE ISLAND.

On approaching the island, they discovered large patches of kelp,
and saw numerous procellaria and albatrosses about the ship. On the
10th of January they made the island, and observed a reef of rocks
extending three quarters of a mile off its south end. Passing within
a short distance of it, they did not observe any of the signals of the

288 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

squadron flying as they had anticipated. They, notwithstanding, stood
in, lowered a boat, and despatched several officers to put up the signal,
make experiments, and collect specimens. The boat approached an
indentation on the west side, too open to be called a bay, and found
that the surf was running high, and beating with great violence against
the rocks, which, together with the kelp, rendered it dangerous to
attempt landing. ‘They made for several other places which looked
favourable at a distance, but on approaching them, they were found
even less accessible. The boat then returned to the first place to make
another attempt, which was attended with great difficulty. The boat’s
anchor was dropped, and she was backed in with great caution to the
edge of the rollers; the surf was very high, and rolled in with a noise
like thunder, breaking furiously upon the rocks, so as to make the boat
fairly tremble, and threatening every moment to overwhelm her; once
or twice she was prevented from getting broadside-to by hauling out
towards her anchor. At length, after a dozen fruitless attempts, and
awaiting a favourable opportunity, Mr. Eld and a quarter-master
succeeded in getting ashore, but not without being immersed up to
their breasts. It was found impossible to land any instruments; and
the quarter-master was despatched to erect the necessary signals,
while Mr. Eld proceeded to visit the penguin-rookery not far distant.
On approaching the island, it had appeared to be covered with white
spots: these excited conjecture; but after landing, the exhalations
rendered it not long doubtful that it was birdlime.

Mr. Eld, in his journal, gives the following account of his visit:
“ Although I had heard so often of the great quantity of birds on the
uninhabited islands, | was not prepared to see them in such myriads .
as here. The whole sides of the rugged hills were literally covered
with them. Having passed a deep fissure in the rocks, I ascended a
crag that led to what | thought was their principal roost, and at every
step my astonishment increased. Such a din of squeaking, squalling.
and gabbling, I never before heard or dreamed could be made by any
of the feathered tribe. It was impossible to hear one’s self speak. It
appeared as if every one was vying with his neighbour to make the
greatest possible noise. I soon found my presence particularly dis-
pleased them, for they snapped at me in all directions, catching hold
of my trousers, shaking and pinching my flesh so violently as to make
me flinch and stand upon the defensive. As we wanted a number
of specimens, I commenced kicking them down the precipice, and
knocked on the head those which had the temerity to attack me,
After having collected a number, and a few eggs, I laid them aside,
whilst I ascended higher on the hill. I had not left them more than

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 289

eighteen feet, before two albatrosses-came down, and commenced pick-
ing at the dead birds I had just killed, but not being able to make any
impression upon them, deliberately picked up two of the eggs with
their beaks, and in spite of my efforts to prevent it, flew away with
them. The eggs were about the size of a goose’s; the original colour
seemed to have been white, but they were so dirty that it was difficult
to say with certainty. They were no doubt the eggs of the penguin,
as I took them out of their nest, which was only a small place
scratched in the earth, just big enough to hold one or two eggs, with
little or no grass, sticks, or any thing else to form a nest of. I after-
wards picked up a number of these eggs, and another was found, of the
size of a hen’s egg, white, with a slight tinge of green. On mounting
the hill still higher, which was very steep, and composed of volcanic
rock, loose stones, and a little soil mixed with birdlime, I found that
there were more of these birds than I anticipated. The nests were
within two feet of each other, with one or two young ones in each;
one of the old ones watching and sitting on the nest, whilst the young
were trying ineffectually to nestle themselves under the small wings of
the old ones. The appearance of the young was not unlike that of
goslings, being covered with a dark thick down.

“These penguins are the Eudyptes chrysocome; they are from
sixteen to twenty inches in height, with white breast and nearly black
back, the rest being of a dark dove-colour, with the exception of the
head, which is adorned on each side with four or five yellow feathers,
three or four inches long, looking like graceful plumes. The birds
stand erect in rows, which gives them the appearance of Liliputian
soldiers. The sight was novel and beautiful, and had it not been for
the gabble,—enough to deafen me,—I could have stayed much longer.
It was now time to return to the boat, when it occurred to me that
live birds would be preferable to the dead; so throwing the latter
down, I seized one old and a couple of young ones, and with three or
four eggs in my cap, made the best of my way to the boat. It was
now found impossible to hand them on board, and not willing to sur-
render my prize, a lead-line was thrown me from the boat, but did not
come near enough, and in my attempts to get it, I was overtaken by a
sea, and was thrown violently against the rocks among the kelp, and
just made out to crawl on hands and knees beyond the reach of the
returning sea, somewhat bruised, wet, and benumbed with the cold.”

At this juncture, the quarter-master returned with a large species
of penguin over his shoulders, but without the crown of feathers on
his head. He described a similar rookery, and also saw some green
paroquets with a small red spot on the head, and an oblong slaty or

VOL. II. 2 37

290 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

purple spot at the root of the bill; and with straight beaks. Mr. Eld
was too much exhausted to return with him to get specimens, and
the hour being late, it was necessary to return to the boat, which had
been waiting for some time for them. The quarter-master succeeded
in getting his penguins to the boat, but Mr. Eld’s began floundering
about, and although their legs were tied, managed to get into the
water, where they were at home, and were soon out of reach. The
tying of the legs did not seem any impediment to their exertions in
the water, and thus several interesting specimens of natural history
were lost, the trouble that it cost making them doubly valuable. With
great difficulty Mr. Eld reached the boat; for, having again missed his
foothold, he fell among the kelp, but by the timely aid of those on
board he was rescued. After an hour’s tug at their oars, they reached
the ship in safety. During their absence the ship sounded with a line
of three hundred fathoms, two and a half miles from the shore; but
no bottom was found. The temperature of the water at the surface
was 43°, and at three hundred fathoms deep 39°. The current was
tried, but none found.

The south end of Macquarie Island lies in latitude 54° 44’ S., and
longitude 159° 49’ KE. The island is high and much broken; it is
apparently covered with verdure, although a long tufted rank grass
was the only plant seen by those who landed.

The highest peak on the island is from twelve to fifteen hundred feet
high, and as far as our observations extended, it had neither tree nor
shrub on it. At 6 p.m. the ship filled away, and at eight was abreast
of the Bishop and Clerk. Macquarie Island affords no inducement for
a visit, and as far as our examination went, has no suitable place for
landing with a boat. The only thing I had to regret was not being
able to make it a magnetic station.

On the 11th and 12th nothing particular occurred on board the Pea-
cock. All sail was set, and running to the southward on the 13th, in
latitude 61° 30' S., longitude 161° 05’ E., the first ice-islands were
seen. The dip was observed with Lloyd’s and Dolland’s needles, which
made it 86° 53’.

There was no occasion on the night of the 13th to light the binnacle-
lamps, as newspaper print could be read with ease at midnight. On
the 14th, while still making much progress to the south, and passing
occasionally icebergs and brash ice, the water appeared somewhat
discoloured. Robinson’s, Lloyd’s, and Dolland’s needles, gave, the
same, day, in the cabin, 86° 37’ for the dip, and in the ward-room, 86°
46’. Albatrosses, Cape pigeons, and other birds about.

On the 15th, they passed many ice-islands. The weather was thick

ANTARCTIC CRUISE, 291

and snow fell at intervals; the wind continued from the westward.
Many whales were seen; albatrosses, petrels, and Cape pigeons were
frequent about the ship. At 4 p. m., the mist raised a little, and to their
surprise they saw a perfect barrier of ice, extending to the southwest,
with several large icebergs enclosed within it. Shortly after, they dis-
covered a sail, Sick proved to be the Porpoise.

The Vincennes and Porpoise were left in our narrative near the icy
barrier, separated by the fogs and mists that prevailed at times. The
Porpoise, on the 13th, in latitude 65° 08’ S., longitude 163° E., disco-
vered several sea-elephants on the ice, and sent a boat to capture them,
but without success. The current was tried, and found to set west
one-fifth of a mile per hour. Some time afterwards, seeing some sea-
elephants near the edge of the ice, a boat was sent, and succeeded in
capturing a female. From the numerous sea-elephants, and the dis-
coloration of the water and ice, they were strongly impressed with the
idea of land being in the vicinity, but on sounding with one hundred
fathoms, no bottom was found; Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold felt
convinced, from the above circumstances, and the report that penguins
were heard, that land was near, and thought he could discern to the
southeast something like distant mountains. A nearer approach was
impossible, as they were then in actual contact with the icy barrier.

On the 14th, at 3 p. m., the water being still discoloured, tried sound-
ings, but found no bottom.

Two sea elephants were seen lying motionless on the ice. On being
shot at, the animal would raise its head and look around for an instant,
and then resume its former posture. Boats were lowered, when they
were captured and brought on board: they proved to be the Phoca
proboscidea. Dr. Holmes examined their stomachs, and found nothing
but well-digested food. Their dimensions were as follows:

Total length 4 ° : : ees 10 feet, 9 inches,
Length of posterior diteer 5 : | aie ks) Mac
Breadth : ‘ 3 6 : ; Oh Uae se
Circumference of titseat part of ee : . : Lae et as fe

This was a young female. The other was taken afterwards; he
measured— }

In length zap ah on dite 8 feet, 6 inches.
Greatest circumference behind anterior flipper . SP aR 1) ok}
Length of flippers é 2 . ° . : 1 ogi eels AS
Breadth @ 3 ; ; . ( D595 oueres

On the 15th the Peacock Ava Porpoise were in company: the
specimens of sea-elephants were put on board the Peacock; and, after

having had communication with each other, the vessels again separated,
standing on opposite tacks.

292 ANT AR CT 1: CRU Bs

On the 16th the three vessels were in longitude 157° 46’ E., and all
within a short distance of each other. The water was much disco-
loured, and many albatrosses, Cape pigeons, and petrels were seen
about the ships. On board the Vincennes, we sounded with two
hundred and thirty fathoms, and found no bottom; the water had the
appearance of an olive-green colour, as if but forty and fifty fathoms
deep. At the surface, its temperature was 32°, at the depth sounded,
31°. I should have tried for a deeper cast, but the line was seen to be
stranded, when we were obliged to stop; we fortunately saved our
apparatus, with Six’s thermometers.

On this day (16th January) appearances believed at the time to be
land were visible from all the three vessels, and the comparison of the
three observations, when taken in connexion with the more positive
proofs of its existence afterwards obtained, has left no doubt that the
appearance was not deceptive. From this day. therefore, we date the
discovery which is claimed for the squadron.

On board the Peacock, it appears that Passed Midshipmen Eld and
Reynolds both saw the land from the masthead, and reported it to
Captain Hudson: he was well satisfied on examination that the appear-
ance was totally distinct from that of ice-islands, and a majority of the
officers and men were also satisfied that if land could exist, that was it.

I mention particularly the names of these two gentlemen, because
they have stated the same fact under oath, before the court-martial,
after our return.

On board the Porpoise, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold states,
that “he went aloft in the afternoon, the weather being clear and fine,
the horizon good, and clouds lofty; that he saw over the field-ice an
object, large, dark, and rounding, resembling a mountain in the dis-
tance; the icebergs were all light and brilliant, and in great contrast.”
He goes on to say, in his report, “I watched for an hour to see if the
sun in his decline would change the colour of the object: it remained
the same, with a white cloud above, similar to that hovering over high
land. At sunset the appearance remained the same. I took the bear-
ings accurately, intending to examine it closely as soon as we gota
breeze. I am thoroughly of opinion it is an island surrounded by
immense fields of ice. The Peacock in sight to the southward and
eastward over the ice; the sun set at a few minutes before ten; soon
after, a light air from the southward, with a fog-bank arising, which
quickly shut out the field-ice.”

In Passed Midshipman Eld’s journal, he asserts that he had been
several times to the masthead during the day, to view the barrier;
that it was not only a barrier of ice, but one of terra firma. Passed

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 993

Midshipman Reynolds and himself exclaimed, with one accord, that it
was land. Not trusting to the naked eye, they descended for spy-
glasses, which confirmed, beyond a doubt, their first impressions. The
mountains could be distinctly seen, over the field-ice and bergs, stretch-
ing to the southwest as far as any thing could be discerned. Two
peaks, in particular, were very distinct, (which I have named after
those two officers,) rising in a conical form; and others, the lower
parts of which were quite as distinct, but whose summits were lost in
light fleecy clouds. Few clouds were to be seen in any other direc-
tion, for the weather was remarkably clear. The sun shone brightly
on ridge after ridge, whose sides were partially bare; these connected
the eminences I have just spoken of, which must be from one to two
thousand feet high. Mr. Eld further states, that on reporting the dis-
covery to Captain Hudson, the latter replied that there was no doubt
of it, and that he believed that most of the icebergs then in sight were
aground. At this time they were close in with the barrier, and could
approach no nearer. On this day, the Peacock got a cast of the deep-
sea lead, with Six’s thermometer attached, to the depth of eight
hundred and fifty fathoms, only a short distance from the barrier: the
temperature of the surface was 31°, and at the depth sounded, 313° ;
current one-fourth of a mile, north-by-east.

The log-book of the Porpoise has also this notice in it: “ From six
to eight, calm and pleasant,—took in studding-sails; at seven set main-
topgallant-studding-sail ; discovered what we took to be an island,
bearing south-by-east,—a great deal of field-ice in sight; noticed
penguins around the brig. (Signed) J. H. North.” Dr. Holmes, on
the same evening, noted in his journal, a marked appearance of land.

On board the Vincennes there was on the same day much excite-
ment among the crew. All eagerly watched the flight of birds,
together with the whales and penguins, and spoke of the proximity
of land, which, from the appearance of never-failing signs, could
scarcely be doubted. The following is a sketch which I made of
what I myself saw, and have called Ringgold’s Knoll on the chart,
and which at the same time will show the field-ice* as it appeared.

* The field-ice is composed of a vast number of pieces, varying in size, and separated
from one another, the long swell keeping the outer ones always in motion. The smallest
pieces were about six feet in diameter, while the largest sometimes exceeded five or six
hundred feet. Their depth below the surface varies still more, and some appear to be soft,
whilst others were hard and compact. The depth of these does not probably in any case
exceed twenty feet. Most of them, and particularly the larger ones, had a covering of about
eighteen inches of snow. The whole at a distance appeared like a vast level field, broken
up as it were by the plough, and presenting shapeless angular masses of every possible figure,
while here and there a table-topped iceberg was enclosed.

Z2

294 ANTARCTIC CRUISE

==
SOc NN ae =
— = SS < Bee

SKETCH OF LAND AND FIELD-ICE.

This night we were beating with frequent tacks, in order to gain
as much southing as possible. Previous to its becoming broad day-
light, the fog rendered every thing obscure, even at a short distance
from the ship. I knew that we were in close proximity to icebergs
and field-ice, but, from the report of the look-out at sunset, believed
that there was an opening or large bay leading to the southward.
The ship had rapid way on her, and was much tossed about, when in
an instant all was perfectly still and quiet; the transition was so sudden
that many were awakened by it from sound sleep, and all well knew,
from the short experience we had had, that the cessation of the sound and
motion usual at sea, was a proof that we had run within a line of ice,
—an occurrence from which the feeling of great danger is inseparable.
The watch was called by the officer of the deck, to be in readiness to
execute such orders as might be necessary for the safety of the ship.
Many of those from below were seen hurrying up the hatches, and
those on deck straining their eyes to discover the barrier in time to
avoid accident. The ship still moving rapidly along, some faint hope
remained that the bay might prove a deep one, and enable me to satisfy
my sanguine hopes and belief relative to the land.

The feeling is awful and the uncertainty most trying thus to enter
within the icy barrier blindfolded as it were by an impenetrable fog,
and the thought constantly recurring that both ship and crew were
in imminent danger; yet I was satisfied that nothing could be gained
but by pursuing this course. On we kept, until it was reported to me,
by attentive listeners, that they heard the low and distant rustling of
the ice: suddenly a dozen voices proclaimed the barrier to be in sight,
just ahead. The ship, which a moment before seemed as if unpeopled,
from the stillness of all on board, was instantly alive with the bustle of
performing the evolutions necessary to bring her to the wind, which
was unfavourable to a return on the same track by which we had
entered. After a quarter of an hour, the ice was again made ahead,
and the full danger of our situation was realized. The ship was
certainly embayed; and although the extent of sea-room to which we
were limited, was rendered invisible by the dark and murky weather,

ANT GRC ELC *CRUUIS E. 295

yet that we were closely circumscribed was evident from having
made the ice so soon on either tack, and from the audible rustling
around us. It required several hours to extricate the ship from this
bay.

Few are able to estimate the feelings that such an occasion causes
to a commander, who has the responsibility of the safety of ship and
crew operating as a heavy weight upon his heart, and producing a
feeling as if on the verge of some overwhelming calamity. All tends
to satisfy him that nothing could guide him in safety through, or shield
from destruction those who have been entrusted to his charge, but the
hand of an all-wise Providence.

17th. In the morning we discovered a ship apparently within a mile
of us, to which we made signal and fired a gun, but she was shortly
after lost sight of. We also saw the brig to the eastward, close to the
barrier of ice. In the afternoon we spoke the Peacock: she had not
seen us in the morning; and I[ should be disposed to believe that the
cause of her image appearing so close to us in the morning was
produced by refraction above a low fog-bank; but the usual accom-
paniment of such phenomena, a difference of temperature below and
aloft, did not exist. |

I now desired Captain Hudson to make the best use of his time in
exploring, as to attempt to keep company would only impede our
progress, and, without adding to our safety, might prevent the oppor-
tunity of examining the barrier for an opening. I was also satisfied
that the separation would be a strong incentive to exertion, by exciting
rivalry among the officers and crews of the different vessels. This
day at noon we were in latitude 66° 20’ S., longitude 156° 02’ E.
Many petrels, albatrosses, a few whales, and a seal, were seen from
the ship; and the water was quite green.

18th. The weather this day was variable, with light westerly winds;
the temperature of air and water 32°. Occasional squalls of snow and
mist occurred, but it was at times clear. The water was still olive-
green; and the other vessels occasionally in sight, beating to windward.

On the morning of the 19th, we found ourselves in a deep bay, and
discovered the Peacock standing to the southwest. Until eight o’clock,
A. M., we had a moderate breeze. The water was of a darker olive-
green, and had a muddy appearance. Land was now certainly visible
from the Vincennes, both to the south-southeast and southwest, in the
former direction most distinctly. Both appeared high. It was between
eight and nine in the morning when I was fully satisfied that it was
certainly land, and my own opinion was confirmed by that of some of

296 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

the oldest and most experienced seamen on board. The officer of the

morning watch, Lieutenant Alden, sent twice, and called my attention
to it. We were at this time in longitude 154° 30’ E., latitude 66° 20’
S.; the day was fine, and at times quite clear, with light winds. After
divine service, I still saw the outline of the land, unchanged in form
but not so distinct as in the morning. By noon, I found we were
sagging on to the barrier; the boats were lowered in consequence, and
the ship towed off. The report from aloft, was, “ A continued barrier
of ice around the bay, and no opening to be seen, having the western
point of it bearing to the northward of west of us.” I stood to the
westward to pass around it, fully assured that the Peacock would
explore all the outline of the bay.

The Peacock, at 3" 30", according to Captain Hudson’s journal,
having got into the drift-ice, with a barrier still ahead to the west,
tacked to the southeast to work up for an immense mass, which had
every appearance of land, and which was believed to be such by all
on board. It was seen far beyond and towering above an ice-island
that was from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet in height. It
bore from them about southwest,* and had the appearance of being
three thousand feet in height, forming a sort of amphitheatre, looking
gray and dark, and divided into two distinct ridges or elevations
throughout its entire extent, the whole being covered with snow. As
there was no probability of getting nearer to it in this quarter, they
stood out of the bay, which was about twenty miles deep, to proceed
to the westward, hoping to get an opportunity to approach the object
more closely on the other side.

We had a beautiful and unusual sight presented to us this night: the
sun and moon both appeared above the horizon at the same time, and
each throwing its light abroad. The latter was nearly full. The
former illuminated the icebergs and distant continent with his deep
golden rays; while the latter, in the opposite horizon, tinged with silvery
light the clouds in its immediate neighbourhood. There now being no
doubt in any mind of the discovery of land, it gave an exciting interest
to the cruise, that appeared to set aside all thought of fatigue, and to
make every one willing to encounter any difficulty to effect a landing.

20th. This day, on board the Peacock they witnessed a sea-fight
between a whale and one of its many enemies. The sea was quite
smooth, and offered the best possible view of the whole combat. First,
at a distance from the ship, a whale was seen floundering in a most

* Sketches of this land will be seen in the Atlas on the Chart of Antarctic Continent.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 297

extraordinary way, lashing the smooth sea into a perfect foam, and
endeavouring apparently to extricate himself from some annoyance.
As he approached the ship, the struggle continuing and becoming
more violent, it was perceived that a fish, apparently about twenty
feet long, held him by the jaw, his contortions, spouting, and throes all
betokening the agony of the huge monster. The whale now threw
himself at full length from the water with open mouth, his pursuer still
hanging to the jaw, the blood issuing from the wound and dyeing the
sea to a distance around; but all his flounderings were of no avail;
his pertinacious enemy still maintained his hold, and was evidently
getting the advantage of him. Much alarm seemed to be felt by the
many other whales around. These “killers,” as they are called, are
of a brownish colour on the back, and white on the belly, with a long
dorsal fin. Such was the turbulence with which they passed, that a
good view could not be had of them to make out more nearly the
description. These fish attack a whale in the same way as dogs bait
a bull, and worry him to death. They are armed with strong sharp
teeth, and generally seize the whale by the lower jaw. It is said that
the only part of them they eat is the tongue. The whalers give some
marvellous accounts of these killers and of their immense strength ;
among them, that they have been known to drag a whale away from
several boats which were towing it to the ship.

There was a great quantity of animalcula in the water, and some
large squids (Medusz) and quantities of shrimp were frequently seen
about the icebergs; these are no doubt the attractions which bring
whales to frequent these seas.

The last two days we had very many Paani snow-white petrels
about. The character of the ice had now become entirely changed.
The tabular-formed icebergs prevailed, and there was comparatively
little field-ice. Some of the bergs were of magnificent dimensions,
one-third of a mile in length, and from one hundred and fifty to two
hundred feet in height, with sides perfectly smooth, as though they had
been chiselled. Others, again, exhibited lofty arches of many-coloured
tints, leading into deep caverns, open to the swell of the sea, which
rushing in, produced loud and distant thunderings. The flight of birds
passing in and out of these caverns, recalled the recollection of ruined
abbeys, castles, and caves, while here and there a bold projecting
bluff, crowned with pinnacles and turrets, resembled some Gothic
keep. A little farther onwards would be seen a vast fissure, as if some
powerful force had rent in twain these mighty masses. Every noise
on board, even our own voices, reverberated from the massive and

pure white walls. These tabular bergs are like masses of beautiful
VOL. Il. 38

298 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

alabaster: a verbal description of them can do little to convey the
reality to the imagination of one who has not been among them. If
an immense city of ruined alabaster palaces can be imagined, of every
variety of shape and tint, and composed of huge piles of buildings
grouped together, with long lanes or streets winding irregularly
through them, some faint idea may be formed of the grandeur and
beauty of the spectacle. The time and circumstances under which
we were viewing them, threading our way through these vast bergs,
we knew not to what end, left an impression upon me of these icy and
desolate regions that can never be forgotten.

* 22d. It was now, during fine weather, one continued day; but we
had occasional snow-squalls that produced an obscurity that was tan-
talizing. ‘The bergs were so vast and inaccessible, that there was no
possibility of landing upon them.

The Peacock and Porpoise were in sight of each other thisday. A
large number of whales, albatrosses, petrels, penguins, &c., were seen
around, and a flock of ducks was also reported as having been seen
from the Vincennes, as well as several seals. The effect of sunrise, at
a little after 2 a. m, on the 23d, was glorious.

As the events which occurred on board the Peacock during the next
few days are particularly interesting, I shall proceed to narrate them
in detail, leaving the Vincennes and Porpoise to pursue their route
along their dangerous and novel pathway, and would particularly
refer the reader to the actual condition of the Peacock, a statement of
which has been heretofore given, that it may be borne in mind that
our vessels had no planking, extra fastening, or other preparations for
these icy regions, beyond those of the vessels of war in our service.

The Peacock stood into the bay which the Vincennes had found
closed the day before, and saw the same appearance of high land in
the distance. The water was much discoloured, and of a dark dirty
green. They hove-to, for the double purpose of getting a cast of the
lead, and of lowering the boats to carry the instruments to a small ice-
berg, on which it was possible to land, for the purpose of making
magnetic observations. A line of one thousand four hundred fathoms
was prepared to sound, and to the lead was attached the cylinder with
Six’s thermometer. The wind being fresh, several leads at different dis-
tances were attached to the line. ‘They were not aware that the lead-
line had touched bottom, until they began to haul in, when it was found
that the lead bent on at five hundred fathoms was filled with blue and
slate-coloured mud. Attached to the lead also was a piece of stone,
and a fresh bruise on it, as though the lead had struck heavily on rock.

The remainder of the line had evidently lain on the bottom, as the

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 299

copper cylinder was covered with mud, and the water inside of it was
quite muddy. They then beat up a short distance to windward, and
again sounded, when, with the line hanging vertically, bottom was
reached at three hundred and twenty fathoms; the matter brought up
was slate-coloured mud. The temperature of the water at the surface
was 32°, and at the above depth 274°, being a decrease of 44°.

The boats now returned, and on approaching the ship the persons in
them were much startled by hearing the crew cheer ship in conse-
quence of finding soundings. This was a natural burst of joy, on
obtaining this unquestionable proof that what they saw was indeed the
land ; a circumstance that, while it left no doubt, if any had existed, in
the mind of any one on board the Peacock, that what they had previ- —
ously seen was truly terra firma, furnished a proof that cannot be
gainsaid, even by those disposed to dispute the evidence of sight,
unsupported by so decisive a fact. Mr. Eld and Mr. Stuart, in the
hoats, succeeded in getting observations, and the mean dip by the
needles was 86° 16’. i

Mr. Eld’s boat succeeded in taking a king-penguin of enormous size,
viz.: from tip of tail to the bill, forty-five inches; across the flippers,
thirty-seven inches; and the circumference of the body, thirty-three
inches. He was taken after a truly sailor-like fashion, by knocking
him down. The bird remained quite unmoved on their approach, or
rather showed a disposition to come forward to greet them. <A blow
with the boat-hook, however, stunned him, and before his recovery he
was well secured. He showed, on coming to himself, much resent-
ment at the treatment he had received, not only by fighting, but by an
inordinate noise. He was in due time preserved as a specimen, and
now graces the collection at Washington. In his craw were found
thirty-two pebbles, from the size of a pea to that of a hazel-nut.

24th. Bergs and field-ice were in various directions around. They
had light baffling winds, clear and pleasant weather, with a smooth sea.
The water was of a dark green colour. Standing into the bay for the
purpose of approaching the land, they at 5 a.m. passed through drift-
ice into an open space, and when they had again approached the field,
hove-to for the purpose of sounding. Here bottom was found at the
depth of eight hundred fathoms; and the matter brought up was
similar to that obtained the day before. The distance between the
points where these two soundings were obtained, was but short.

At 8" 30™ 4. m., while attempting to box off the ship from some ice
under the bow, she made a stern-board, which brought the stern so
forcibly in contact with another mass of ice, that it seemed from the
shock, as if it were entirely stove in; the rudder was so much canted

300 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

from its position, as to carry away the starboard wheel-rope, and to
wrench the neck of the rudder itself in such a manner as to render it
unserviceable, or even worse than useless. In hopes of lessening the
difficulty, relieving-tackles were applied to the tiller, but without effect,
for it was discovered that the rudder had been so far twisted as to
make a considerable angle with the keel, and every exertion to move
it proved ineffectual.

All hands were now called, and every officer and man was speedily
at his station. ‘The ship was found to be rapidly entering the ice, and
every effort to direct her course by the management of the sails proved
fruitless. In this helpless condition scarcely a moment passed without
a new shock in some quarter or other from the ice, and every blow
threatened instant destruction. The hope was not yet abandoned, that
some temporary expedient might be found to bring the rudder again
into use, until they should be extricated from this perilous situation.
A stage was, therefore, rigged over the stern, for the purpose of
examining into its state, but it was found to be so much injured that it
was impossible to remedy its defects while in its place, and prepara-
tions were forthwith made for unshipping it. In the mean time the
position of the vessel was every instant growing worse, surrounded as
she was by masses of floe-ice, and driving further and further into it,
towards an immense wall-sided iceberg. All attempts to get the vesse'
on the other tack failed, in consequence of her being so closely encom-
passed, and it was therefore thought expedient to attempt to bring her
head round, by hanging her to an iceberg by the ice-anchors, and thus
complete what had been partially effected by the sails. The anchor
was attached, but just at the moment the hawser was passed on board,
the ship took a start so suddenly astern, that the rope was literally
dragged out of the men’s hands before they could get a turn around
the bits.

The ship now drove stern foremost into the midst of the huge masses
of ice, striking the rudder a second time. This blow gave it the
finishing stroke, by nearly wringing off the head, breaking two of the
pintles, and the upper and lower brace.

The wind now began to freshen, and the floe-ice to set upon the
ship. The sails were furled, and spars rigged up and down the ship’s
sides as fenders. Attempts were again made to plant the ice-anchors,
for which purpose the boats were lowered; but the confined space,
and the force with which the pieces of ice ground against each other
was so great, that the boats proved nearly as unmanageable as the
ship. After much exertion, however, the ice-anchors were planted, and
the hawser hauled taut. Here they for a time enjoyed comparative

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 30)

security, as the vessel hung by the anchors, which were planted in a
large floe. The ice continued to close in rapidly upon them, grinding,
crushing, and carrying away the fenders; and the wind, that had
changed to seaward, rose with appearances that foreboded bad
weather.

At 10" 30™ this security was at an end; for the anchors, in spite of
the exertions of the officers and men who were near them, broke loose,
and the ship was again at the mercy of huge floating masses. A rapid
stern-board was the consequence; and a contact with an ice-island,
vast, perpendicular, and as high as the mastheads, appeared inevitable.

Every possible preparation was made to meet the expected shock.
There was no noise or confusion, and the self-possession and admi-
rable conduct of the commander inspired courage and confidence in
all. Preparations were made to cockbill the yards, and spars were
got out.

While these preparations were going forward, the imminence of the
danger lessened for a while: the anchors again held, and there was a
hope that they might bring the vessel up before she struck. This
hope, however, endured but for a moment; for the anchors, with the
whole body of ice to which they were attached, came in, and the
ship going astern, struck quartering upon a piece of ice which lay
between her and the great ice-island. ‘This afforded the last hope of
preventing her from coming in contact with it; and this hope failed
also; for, grinding along the ice, she went nearly stern foremost, and
struck with her larboard quarter upon the ice-island with a tremen-
dous crash.

The first effect of this blow was to carry away the spanker-boom,
the larboard stern-davit, and to crush the stern-boat. The starboard
stern-davit was the next to receive the shock, and as this is connected
with the spar-deck bulwarks, the whole of them were started; the
knee, a rotten one, which bound the davit to the taffrail, was broken
off, and with it all the stanchions to the plank-sheer, as far as the
gangway. |

Severe as was this shock, it happened fortunately that it was fol-
lowed by as great a rebound. This gave the vessel a cant to star-
board, and by the timely aid of the jib and other sails, carried her
clear of the ice-island, and forced her into a small opening. While
doing this, and before the vessel had moved half her length, an impend-
ing mass of ice and snow fell in her wake. Had this fallen only a few
seconds earlier, it must have crushed the vessel to atoms.

It was also fortunate that the place where she struck the ice-island

was near its southern end, so that there was but a short distance to he
2A

302 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

passed before she was entirely clear of it. This gave more room for
the drifting ice, and permitted the vessel to be worked by her sails.

The relief from this pressing danger, however gratifying, gave no
assurance of ultimate safety. ‘The weather had an unusually stormy
appearance; and the destruction of the vessel seemed almost inevita-
ble, with the loss of every life on board. They had the melancholy
alternative in prospect of being frozen to death one after the other, or
perishing in a body by the dissolving of the iceberg on which they
should take refuge, should the vessel sink.

When the dinner hour arrived the vessel was again fast in the ice,
and nothing could for a time be done: it was therefore piped as usual.
This served to divert the minds of the men from the dangers around
them.

When the meal was over, the former manceuvring was resorted to,
the yards being kept swinging to and fro, in order to keep the ship’s
head in the required direction. She was labouring in the swell, with
ice grinding and thumping against her on all sides; every moment
something either fore or aft was carried away—chains, bolts, bob-
stays, bowsprit, shrouds; even the anchors were lifted, coming down
with a surge that carried away the eyebolts and lashings, and left them
to hang by the stoppers. The cut-water also was injured, and every
timber seemed to groan.

Similar dangers attended those in the boats. Passed Midshipman
Eld was sent to plant the ice-anchors: there was no room for the use
of oars; the grinding and grating of the ice, as it rose and fell with the
swell, rendered great precaution necessary to prevent the boat from
being swamped or crushed; and when it is stated that two hours of
hard exertion were required to plant the ice-anchors, some idea of the
difficulty attending this service will be had. But this was not all; the
difficulty of returning was equally great, and no possible way of effect-
ing it seemed to suggest itself. The sides of the icebergs could not be
ascended, and to approach the berg on the side next the ship was
certain destruction to the boat and crew, for the ice and water were
foaming like a cauldron; and to abandon the former was equally out of
the question. At last a chance offered, although almost a hopeless
one, by passing between two of these bergs, that appeared on the
other side of a small clear space. ‘The boat was upon a small piece
of ice, from which, by great exertions, she was launched; a few pulls
at the oars brought them to the passage; the bergs were closing fast,
and agitated by the swell; no time, therefore, was to be lost: the
danger was already great, and in a few seconds it would be impossible

to pass. They entered; their oars caught, and they got but half-way

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 303

through when the icebergs closed in upon them, and pressed the gun-
wales together, so as almost to crush the boat; the water entered her,
and she was near sinking, when the berg stopped, retreated, and by
another hard shove they went through, and were soon alongside the
ship.

Every exertion was now made to work the ship and avoid heavy
thumps from the ice. The mode resorted to, to get the ship about,
was a novel one, namely, by urging her lee bow against a piece of
ice, which had the same effect as giving her a lee helm; but this was
found rather too expensive a mode of effecting the object, and on the
pumps showing an increase of water, it was discontinued. The ice
had been rapidly accumulating around the ship, contracting still more
narrowly the space or area in which they were, and rendering their
situation more hazardous.

At 4 p.m., they clewed up the topsails, the ship being fast in the
ice, with the wind directly in from the seaward. ‘The ice-anchors
were now again run out, in hopes of relieving her from some of the
strain. A short time afterwards the ice clearing from the stern enabled
them to unship the rudder, which was taken on board in two pieces:
it was immediately placed on the quarter-deck, and all the carpenters
employed on it.

It soon began to snow violently, and no clear sea could be seen
from the ship in any direction. It becoming obscure, the chance was
that they would have to take up their last abode there. About six
o’clock the weather cleared a little, and the wind freshened; they
parted the hawser attached to the ice-anchor, and made sail again for
the clear sea, which could now be seen from the masthead. ‘Towards
8 rp. m., as if to blast the little hope that the continuance of clear
weather inspired, the ship took a wrong cant, and was forced into a
small opening leading farther into the ice to leeward, and towards the
massive walls of the berg. Great exertions were made, and fortu-
nately, by the aid of the ice-anchors and sails, they succeeded in
getting her round, and her head again pointed towards the clear sea ;
but they were shortly afterwards wedged in between two large masses
of ice. At midnight the sea was observed to rise, although the wind
had not increased, causing much motion among the ice; and the
stormy appearance of the sky continued, and gave promise of a gale.
The only hope left was to force the ship through, and every means
were employed to effect this object. The ice they had now to con-
tend with was of larger dimensions, and the increased sea rendered it
doubly dangerous. Some of the shocks against it were so heavy as
to excite fears that the ship’s bow would be driven in, and on one

304 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

occasion three of the chronometers were thrown out of their beds of
sawdust upon their sides. They continued to make but little head-
way, and the grinding and thumping on the ship was most painful.
The hope of extricating her lessened every moment; for the quantity
of ice between them and the sea was increasing, and the ship evidently
moved with it to leeward. Few situations could be more trying, but
the emergency was met by Captain Hudson with a coolness, perse-
verance, and presence of mind, which secured the admiration of all
who were present, and inspired full confidence and a firm reliance in
his ability to overcome every difficulty that lay within the power of
human means.

The annexed sketch of the bay will exhibit the situation of the ship
more accurately; it is situated in latitude 65° 55’ 20” S., longitude
1519.18" 45" E.

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PEACOCK BAY.

In the afternoon of the 25th, the sea continued to increase, and the
ship frequently struck against the masses of ice, while every foot they
forged ahead carried them seemingly into a more precarious situation.
At about 3 a.m., they found that the gripe had been beaten off, and
they were now bruising up the stem and grinding away the bows.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 305

There appeared no other course but to drive her out, which was
deemed the only chance of saving the ship and crew. All the canvass
that would draw was therefore set to force her through; and the
wind favouring them, they had by four o’clock succeeded in passing
the thick and solid ice, and shortly afterwards found themselves in
clear water, without a rudder, the gripe gone, and, as was afterwards
found, the stem ground down to within an inch and a half of the wood-
ends.

The carpenters were still employed on the rudder, and had suc-
ceeded in removing the broken pieces of the pintles from the second
and third braces on the stern-post; the upper and lower pintles were
broken, leaving only two to hang the rudder by. The weather seemed
now to favour them, and about ten o’clock they had finished the rudder,
which had been repaired in the best possible manner. Great credit is
due to Mr. Dibble, the carpenter, (who left his sick bed on the occa-
sion,) for his exertions, attention, and perseverance. He and the
carpenter’s crew worked twenty-four hours without intermission.
The ship was now hove-to, for it was apprehended that her rolling
would render the task of shipping the rudder troublesome. By meri-
dian they were again in a situation to make sail to extricate them-
selves from a bay some thirty miles in extent, which, with the
exception of the small opening by which they had entered, was
apparently closed by the barrier.

Shortly afterwards, the wind becoming fair, they made all sail for
the outlet. The weather proved fine, and the winds moderate. At
midnight they found the only opening left, which was not more than
a quarter of a mile wide; they succeeded in passing through this, by
2 a. M., in a snow-storm, and felt grateful to God for their providential
escape.

Captain Hudson now came to the conclusion of returning north.
“ After,” as he says, “ thoroughly turning over in my own mind the
state of the ship,—with the head of the rudder gone, hanging by two
braces, and in such a state that we could hardly hope to make it
answer its purposes again, in encountering the boisterous weather we
should have to pass through before reaching the first port,—the ship
considerably strained; her starboard spar-deck bulwarks gone as far
forward as the gangway; the gripe off, and the stern mutilated ;—fully
satisfied from this state of things that she was perfectly useless for
cruising among icebergs, and the accompanying dangers, in thick
foggy weather, to which, in these latitudes, we should be more or less
subject, and where rapid evolutions were often necessary, in which the
rudder must perform its part; and that the ship would require exten

VOL. II. coe 39

306 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

sive repairs before being employed in surveying operations; and feeling
that the season was rapidly coming round when our services would be
required in that duty, I held a council of the ward-room officers, and
required their opinions as to making any further attempts to cruise in
these latitudes.

“There was but one opinion as to the necessity of the ship’s return-
ing north, with the exception of Mr. Emmons and Mr. Baldwin, who
thought the rudder might stand, provided we did not get near the ice
or fall in with icebergs. This of course would be to effect little or
nothing, and result only in a loss of time. I accordingly put the ship’s
head north, determined to proceed at once to Sydney, to effect the
necessary repairs, so as to be ready at the earliest possible day to join
the squadron.” |

Such were the dangers and difficulties from which the Peacock, by
the admirable conduct of her officers and crew, directed by the con-
summate seamanship of her commander, was enabled at this time to
escape. There still, however, remained thousands of miles of a stormy
ocean to be encountered, with a ship so crippled as to be hardly capa-
ble of working, and injured to such an extent in her hull as to be kept
afloat with difficulty. The narrative of the events of this perilous
navigation must, however, be postponed, until I shall have given the
proceedings of the other vessels of the squadron, while tracing out the
position of the icy barrier, and following along the newly-discovered
continent.

ICEBERG.

CHAPTER X.

CONTENTS.

PROCEEDINGS OF THE VINCENNES FROM THE TWENTY-SECOND OF JANUARY—DISAP-
POINTMENT BAY—WATERING ON THE ICE—DIAGRAMS OF THE ICE-ISLANDS—THEIR
UTILITY—VIOLENT GALE AND SNOW-STORM—NARROW ESCAPE FROM STRIKING THE
ICE—THE OPEN SEA REACHED—RETURN OF FINE WEATHER— VINCENNES STANDS
AGAIN TO THE SOUTH, AND REACHES THE ICY BARRIER—PINER’S BAY—SOUNDINGS
IN THIRTY FATHOMS — ANOTHER VIOLENT GALE — REPORT OF THE MEDICAL
OFFICERS—OPINION OF THE WARD-ROOM OFFICERS—DETERMINATION TO PROCEED
WITH THE CRUISE—ITS EVENTS UP TO THE FOURTEENTH OF FEBRUARY—LANDING
ON AN ICEBERG—SPECIMENS OF ROCKS OBTAINED—INQUIRY IN RELATION TO THE
FORMATION OF ICEBERGS—THEIR SEPARATION FROM THE LAND—THEIR PROGRESS—
FURTHER EVIDENCE IN RELATION TO THE ANTARCTIC CONTINENT—ESTIMATE OF
THE RATE AT WHICH THE FLOATING ICE MOVES—THE VINCENNES BEGINS HER
RETURN TO THE NORTH.

(307)

ness
GH Ae OF

CHAPTER X.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE—CONTINUED.
1840.

In taking up the narrative of the disaster sustained by the Peacock,
with which the preceding chapter closes, the Vincennes and Porpoise
were left on the 22d of January.

On that day the Vincennes passed the place through which the Pea-
cock entered, as has been related, on the 23d, and found no opening.
To judge from the manner in which the ice moved during the time the
Peacock was enclosed init, I am inclined to ascribe the alternate open-
ing and closing of the passage into the bay, to a tide setting along this
coast. In support of this opinion it is sufficient to state, that the strength
of the winds experienced on board that vessel was at no time sufficient
to account for the manner in which the ice was found to move.

About thirty miles to the westward of this point, the Vincennes
passed a remarkable collection of tabular icebergs, for whose existence
I can account in no other manner than by supposing them to be
attached to a rocky islet, which formed a nucleus to which they
adhered. It was quite obvious that they had not been formed in the
place where they were seen, and must, therefore, have grounded, after
being adrift.

On the 23d January, after passing around this group of icebergs, the
sea was found comparatively clear, and a large open space showed
itself to the southward. Into this space the course of the Vincennes
was immediately directed. While thus steering to the south, the
appearance of land was observed on either hand, both to the eastward
and westward.

Pursuing this course, we by midnight reached the solid barrier, and
(309)

310 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

all approach to the land on the east and west was entirely cut off by
the close packing of the icebergs. I was, therefore, reluctantly com-
pelled to return, not a little vexed that we were again foiled in our
endeavour to reach the Antarctic Continent. This was a deep inden-
tation in the coast, about twenty-five miles wide: we explored it to the
depth of about fifteen miles, and did not reach its termination. This
bay I have called Disappointment Bay: it is in latitude 67° 04’ 30” S.,
longitude 147° 30’ E. The weather was remarkably fine, with a
bracing air: the thermometer in the air 22°, in the water 31°.

The next day, 24th, we stood out of the bay, and continued our
course to the westward. About noon, to my surprise, I learnt that one
of the officers, Lieutenant Underwood, had marked on the log-slate that
there was an opening of clear water, subtending three points of the
compass, at the bottom of Disappointment Bay. Though confident
that this was not the fact, in order to put this matter at rest, I at once
determined to return, although forty miles distant, and ordered the ship
about, to refute the assertion by the officer’s own testimony. This was
most effectually done the next morning, 25th, when the ship reached the
identical spot, and all were fully convinced that no opening existed.
The whole bay was enclosed by a firm barrier of ice, from north-north-
west to east-northeast.

The weather proved delightful, with light airs from the southward,
and I determined to take this opportunity to fill up the water-tanks with
ice. The ship was hove-to, a hawser got in readiness, the boats
lowered, and brought alongside of an iceberg well adapted to our
purpose.

The same opportunity was also taken to make the magnetic obser-
vations on the ice, and to try the local attraction of the ship.

Many birds were seen about the ship, of which we were fortunate in
obtaining specimens. The day was remarkably clear, and the same
appearance of land was seen that had been witnessed on the 24th. We
filled nineteen of our tanks with ice, after having allowed it to remain
for some time on deck for the salt water to drain off in part, and it
proved very potable.

At about 5 p.m, we had completed our required store of ice, and
cast off, making sail to the northward.

In order that no further mistakes should take place as to the openings
being passed, I issued an order, directing the officer of the deck on
being relieved to go to the masthead, and report to me the exact situa-
tion of the ice; and this was continued during the remainder of our
eruise among it. |

Aq yaays

aM 'D

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 311

In threading our way through the many icebergs, it occurred to me
that they might be considered as islands, and a rough survey made of
them, by taking their bearings at certain periods, and making diagrams
of their positions. This was accordingly done, and every few hours
they were inserted on the chart which I was constructing in my
progress.

The following is one of the diagrams.

ley Be
| e a
‘ 2Pri Lao aaa
oo” ao ini =
0 TON

ee

G
s.Am 2
gQ
a 2
rrr lms miles

This I found to be very useful, and it gave me confidence in pro-
ceeding, for I had a tolerable chart to retreat by in case of need, at
least for a few hours, during which time I had reason to believe that
there was not much probability of the icebergs changing their relative
positions.

The dip observed on the ice was 87° 30’, and the variation 12° 46'
easterly. The compasses were found to be very sluggish, having but
little horizontal directive force.

About half an hour after we cast off from the iceberg, a thick snow-
storm came up, with the wind from the southeast. Although there
were very many ice-islands around us, on our way out, I felt that I
understood the ground well, having passed over it twice, and knowing
I had a space of a few miles, only thinly sprinkled with icebergs, I
hove-to with shortened sail. This was the first southeast wind we had
had since being on this coast. I had been disappointed in not finding it
from that quarter before; for I had been informed, by those who had
navigated in high southern latitudes, that southeast would be the pre-
vailing wind, and would be attended with fine weather. Now, how-
ever, with a fair wind, I was unable to run, for the weather was un-
favourable.

312 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

At 6 a.m. on the 26th, we again made sail, and at 8 a. m. we di:-
covered the Porpoise, to whom we made signals to come within hail.
We found them all well, and compared chronometers.

As it still blew fresh from the southeast, and the weather became a
little more clear, we both bore away, running through much drift-ice,
at the rate of nine knots an hour. We had the barrier in sight; it was,
however, too thick to see much beyond it. Sailing in this way I felt to
be extremely hazardous ; but our time was so short for the examination
of this icy coast, that while the barrier was to be seen, I deemed it my.
duty to proceed. We fortunately, by good look-outs, and carefully
conning the ship, were enabled to avoid any heavy thumps.

On the 27th, we again had the wind from south-southwest. The
floe-ice had become so thick, that we found it impossible to get through
it in the direction I wished to go, and we were compelled to pass round
it. ‘The Porpoise was in sight until noon. ‘The weather proved beau-
tifully clear. A long range of tabular icebergs was in sight to the
southward, indicating, as I have before observed, that the coast was
near. I passed through these, losing sight of the Porpoise to the north-
west about noon, when we were in longitude 142° 40’ E., latitude 65°
54’ 21" S., variation 5° 08’ easterly.

On the 28th, I found myself completely surrounded by the tabular
icebergs, through which we continued to pass. Towards midnight the
wind shifted to the southeast, and enabled me to haul more to the
southward. At 94 a. m. we had another sight of the land ahead, and
every prospect of nearing it, with a fine breeze. The sight of the ice-
bergs around us, all of large dimensions, was beautiful. The greatest
number in sight at one time was noted, and found to be more than a
hundred, varying from a quarter of a mile to three miles in length. We
took the most open route, and by eleven o’clock had run upwards of
forty miles through them. We had the land now in plain view, but the
weather soon began to thicken and the breeze to freshen. At noon it
was so thick that every thing was hidden, and no observation was
obtained. The ship was hove-to, but shortly after again put under way,
making several tacks to keep my position, which I felt was becoming
a critical one, in case a gale should ensue. I therefore looked care-
fully over my chart, and was surprised at the vast number of icebergs
that appeared on it. At 2 p.m. the barometer began to fall, and the
weather to change for the worse. At 5 p. m. a gale was evidently
coming on, so we took three reefs in the topsails. It appeared now that
certain wreck would ensue, should we remain where we were; and
after much consideration, I made up my mind to retrace my way, and
seek the open space forty miles distant, taking for a landmark a

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 313

remarkable berg that had_been the last entered on the chart, and which
would be a guide to my course out. I therefore stood for its position,
' The weather was so thick, that it was necessafy to run close to it, to
be quite sure of recognising it, for on this seemed todepend our safety.
About the estimated time we would take to pass over.the distance, an
iceberg was made (we were within one thousand feet of it) which, at
first view, I felt confident was the one sought, but was not altogether
satisfied afterwards. | therefore again feonamied my chart, and
became more doubtful of it. Just at that moment I was called on deck
by an officer, who informed me that there were icebergs a short dis-
tance ahead! Such proved to be the case; our path was beset with
them, and it was evident we could not regain our route. To return
was worse, So having but little choice left, I determined to keep on. To
- encounter these icéber Ss so soon after seeing the other, was in some
respects satisfactory, far it removed all doubts, and showed me that
we were not near the track by which we entered. Nothing, therefore,
was to be done but to keep a good look-out, and the ship under suffi-
cient way to steer well. My safest plan was to keep as near our former
track as possible, believing it to be most free of these masses.

At 8 p. m. it began to blow very hard, with a violent snow-storm,
circumscribing our view. and rendering it impossible to see more than
two ‘ship’ S- leat ahead. “The cold was severe, and‘ every spray that
touched the chip was immediately converted into ice. At 9 p.m, the’
barometer stili falling and the gale increasing, we reduced’ sail to
close-reefed fore and main-topsails, reefed foresail and trysails, under
which we passed numerous icebergs, some to windward, and some to
Jeeward of us. At 10" 30™, we found ourselves thickly beset with.
them, and had many narrow escapes; the excitement became intense;
it required a constant change of helm to avoid those close aboard ;
and we were compelled to press the ship with canvass in order to
escape them, by keeping her to windward. We thus passed close
along their weather sides, and distinctly heard the roar of the surf
dashing against them. We had, from time to time, glimpses of their
obscure outline; appearing as though immediately above us. After
-many escapes, I found the ship so covered with ice, and the watch so
powerless in managing her, that a little after midnight, on the 29th,
{ had all hands called. Scarcely had they been reported on deck,
_ when it was made known to me that the gunner, Mr. Williamson, had

fallen, broken his ribs, and otherwise injured himself, on the icy deck.

The gale at this moment was awful. We found we were passing
large masses of drift-ice, and ice-islands became more numerous. At
a little after one o’clock it was terrific, and the sea was now so heavy,

VOL. Il. 2B 40

314 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

that I was obliged to yeduce sail still further ;, the fore'and main- -top-

sails were new up; the former was furled, but the latter being a
new sail, much ciittenliy” was found in securing it.

A seaman, by the name of pleas in eh eee oe. to execute the
order to furl, got on the lee yardarm, and the sail having blown over
the yard, prevented his return. Not being aware of his position until
it was reported ‘to me from the forecastle, he remained there some
time. On my seeing him he appeared stiff, and clinging to the yard
and lift. Spilling-lines were at once rove, and an officer with several
men sent aloft to rescue him, which they succeeded in doing by
passing a bowline around his body and dragging him into the top,
He was almost frozen to death. Several of the best men were com-
pletely exhausted with cold, fatigue, and excitement, and were sent
below. This added to our anxieties, and but little hope remained to
me of escaping: I felt that neither prudence nor foresight could avail
in protecting the ship and crew. All that could be done, was to be
prepared for any emergency, by keeping every one at his station.

We were swiftly dashing on, for I felt: it necessary to keep the ship |
under rapid way through the water, to enable her to steer and work
quickly. Suddenly many voices cried out, “Ice ahead!” then, “On
the weather bow!” and again, “On the lee bow and abeam!” All
hope of escape seemed in a moment to vanish; return we could not, as

il

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. : 315

large ice-islands had just been passed to leeward: so we dashed on,
expecting every moment the crash. ‘The ship, in an instant, from having
her lee guns under water, rose upright; and so close were we passing
to leeward of one of these huge islands, that our trysails were almost
thrown aback by the eddy wind. The helm was put up to pay the ship
off, but the proximity of those under our lee bade me keep my course.
All was now still except the distant roar of the wild storm, that was
raging behind, before, and above us; the sea was in great agitation,
and both officers and men were in the highest degree excited. The
ship contmued her way, and as we proceeded, a glimmering of hope
arose, for we accidentally had hit upon a clear passage between two
large ice-islands, which in fine weather we should not dare to have
ventured through. The suspense endured while making our way
between them was intense, but of short duration; and my spirits rose
as I heard the whistling of the gale grow louder and louder before us,
as we emerged from the passage. We had escaped an awful death,
and were again tempest-tost.

We encountered many similar dangers that night. At half-past 4,
a. M., | found we had reached the small open space laid down on my
chart, and at five o’clock [ hove-to the ship. I had been under intense
excitement, and had not been off the deck for nine hours, and was now
thankful to the Providence that had guided, watched over, and pre-
served us. Until 7 a.m., all hands were on deck, when there was some
appearance of the weather moderating, and they were piped down.

The barometer was marked at on for which the reader is
referred to Appendix XXVI.

This gale was from the southeast, from which quarter it blew
during the whole of its strength; and when it began to moderate, the »
wind veered to the southward. By noon we felt satisfied that the gale
was over, and that we had escaped, although it was difficult to realize
a sense of security when the perils we had just passed through were
so fresh in our minds, and others still impending. ‘Towards four
o’clock, it cleared off, and we saw but few icebergs near us. Our
longitude was found to be 140° E., latitude 63° 30’ S., and I again
made sail for the ice to the south, to pass over the very route we had
just traversed through so many perils.

The wind had now hauled to the southwest. At 6 Pr. m., we again
began to enter among ice-islands. The weather appeared settled; but
I had so often been deceived by its fickleness, that I felt no reliance
ought to be put in its continuance. A powerful inducement was held
out to us, in the prospect of getting close enough to effect a landing
and this. rendered us insensible to the dangers.

316 ANTARCTIC CRUTSE |

On the morning of the 30th the sun rose in great brilliancy, and the
scene could hardly be realized as the same as that we had passed
through only twenty-four hours before. All was now quiet; a brisk
breeze blew from the eastward, all sail was set, and there was every
prospect that we might accomplish our object; for the land was in
sight, and the icebergs seemed floating in quiet. We wound our way
through them in a sea so smooth that a yawl might have passed over
it in safety. No straight line could have been drawn from us in any
direction, that would not have cut a dozen icebergs in the same number
of miles, and the wondering exclamations of the officers and crew were
oft repeated,—** How could we have passed through them unharmed ?”
and, “ What a lucky ship!” At eight o’clock, we had reached the icy
barrier, and hove-to close to it. Jt was tantalizing, with the land in
sight, to be again and again blocked out. Open water was seen near
the land to the southwest of us, and a tortuous channel through the
broken ice to leeward, apparently leading to it. All sail was immedi-
ately crowded; we passed rapidly through, and found ourselves again in
clear water, which reached to the shores: the barrier extending in a
line with our course, about two miles to windward, and a clear channel
to the northwest, about two miles wide, as far as the eye could reach.
Seeing this, I remarked to one of the officers that it would have been
a good place to drift in during the last gale,—little thinking that in a
few short hours it would serve us for that purpose, in still greater need.
A brisk gale ensued, and the ship ran at the rate of nine or ten miles.
an hour; one reef was taken in the topsails, and we stood directly in
for the most southerly part of the bay. |

This bay was formed partly by rocks and partly by ice-islands.
The latter were aground, and on the western side of the bay extended
about five miles to the northward of our position.

While we stood on in this direction the gale increased, and our
room became so circumscribed that we had not time on any one tack
to reduce our canvass, before it became necessary to go about. ‘In.
this way we approached within half a mile of the dark, volcanic
rocks, which appeared on both sides of us, and saw the land gradually
rising beyond the ice to the height of three thousand feet, and entirely
covered with snow. It could be distinctly seen extending to the east
and west of our position fully sixty miles. I make this bay in longi-
tude 140° 02’ 30” E., latitude 66° 45’ S.;.and, now that all were con-
vinced of its existence, I gave the land the name of the Antarctic
Continent. Some of the officers pointed out the appearance of smoke.
as if from a volcano, but I was of opinion that this was nothing but
the snow-drift,.caused by the heavy squalls. There was too much

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 317

wind at this time to tack; I therefore had recourse to luffing the vessel
up in the wind, and wore her short round on her heel. At the same
time we sounded, and found a hard bottom at the depth of no more
than thirty fathoms. I made a rough sketch of this bay, which I have
called Piner’s Bay, after the signal quarter-master of that name. It
was impossible to lower a boat, or to remain longer ; indeed, I felt it
imperative on me to clear its confined space before the floating ice
might close it up.

At 10° 30™ we had gone round, and in an hour more we cleared the
bay. At noon the wind had increased to a gale, and by one o’clock,
P. M. we were reduced to storm-sails, with our top-gallant yards on
deck. The barometer had again declined rapidly, proving a true
indicator, but giving little or no warning. To run the gauntlet again
among the icebergs was out of the question, for a large quantity of
field-ice would have to be passed through, which must have done us
considerable damage, if it did not entirely disable us. ‘The clear space
we occupied was retained until five or six o’clock, when I found the
floe-ice was coming down upon us; I then determined to lay the ship
for a fair drift through the channel I had observed in the morning, and
which I had every reason to believe, from the wind (southeast) blow-
ing directly through it, would not be obstructed until the floe-ice came
down. It was a consolation to know that if we were compelled to
drift, we should do so faster than the ice; I therefore thought it as
well to avoid it as long as possible. Another reason determined me
to delay the drifting to the latest moment: I did not believe that the
extent of the channel we had seen in the morning was more than ten
miles in extent, and at the rate we drifted, the end of it would be
reached long before the gale was over. This, like the former gale,
was an old-fashioned snow-storm. All the canvass we could show to
it at one time was a close-reefed main-topsail and fore-storm-staysail.
It blew tremendously, and the sea we experienced was a short dis-
agreeable one, but nothing to be compared to that which accompanied
the first gale. From the shortness of the sea, I inferred that we had
some current. This state of things continued for several hours, during
which we every moment expected to reach the end of our channel.
Since the last gale, the whole crew, officers and men, had been put in
watch and watch, ready for an instantaneous call, and prepared for
rapid movements. The snow was of the same sleety or cutting
character as that of the previous day, and seemed as if armed with
sharp icicles or needles.

The 31st brought no moderation of the weather. At 1 a.m, a

group of ice-islands was reported, and shortly afterwards field-ice close
2B2

318 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

under our lee. We wore ship instantly, and just avoided coming in
contact with the latter. Sail was immediately made on the ship, and
the scene of the former gale again gone through (which it is needless
here to repeat), with this exception, that we were now passing to and
fro among icebergs immediately to windward of the barrier, and each
tack brought us nearer to it. Between 4 and 5 a. m., our space was
becoming confined, and there was no abatement of the gale; I there-
fore, as it had cleared sufficiently to enable us to see a quarter of a
mile, determined to bear up and run off north-northwest for a clear
sea. In doing this we passed icebergs of all dimensions and heavy
floe-ice. By 8® 30™ we had run thirty miles, when, finding a more
open sea, I judged we had partially cleared the ice. At noon the gale
— still continued. The lowest reading of the barometer during this gale
was 28°59 in.

After lasting thirty hours, the gale, at 6 p. m., began to moderate a
little, when we again made sail to the southward. I now felt inclined
to seek Piner’s Bay again, in order to effect a landing. This would
have been a great personal gratification; but the bay was sixty miles
distant, so that to revisit it would occupy time that was now precious;
and feeling satisfied that a great extent of land wholly unknown lay
to the westward, [ deemed it my duty to proceed to its discovery, not
doubting that if my opinions of its existence were correct, a place
equally feasible for landing would be found. Another subject also
presented itself, which, for a time, caused me some anxiety, and which
I confess was not only unexpected by me, but directly at variance with
my own observations on the condition of my crew. As I feel com-
pelled to give a complete detail of our proceedings, I must now revert
to this subject. | |

The following report of the medical officers of the ship was made
to me on the day of its date.

U.S. Ship Vincennes,
At Sea, January 31st, 1840.

Sir,—

It becomes our duty, as medical officers of this ship, to report to you
in writing the condition of the crew at the present time.

The number upon the list this morning is fifteen: most of these cases
are consequent upon the extreme hardships and exposure they have
undergone during the last gales of wind, when the ship has been sur-
rounded with ice.

This number is not large, but it is necessary to state, that the
general health of the crew, in our opinion, is decidedly affected, and

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 319

that under ordinary circumstances the list would be very much in-
creased, as the men under the present exigencies, actuated by a
laudable desire to do their duty to the last, refrain from presenting
themselves as applicants for the list.

Under these circumstances, we feel ourselves obliged to report that,
in our opinion, a few days more of such exposure as they have already
undergone, would reduce the number of the crew by sickness to such
an extent as to hazard the safety of the ship and the lives of all on
board.

Very respectfully, your obedient servants,
(Signed) J. L. Fox,
J.S. Wuirtte,

Assistant-Surgeons.
To Caartes WILKES, Esa.,
Commanding Exploring Expedition,

Although my own opinion, as I have stated, differed from that
expressed in the report, I deemed it my duty to ask the opinion of the
ward-room officers, and also, in order to procure additional medical
advice, restored to duty Acting-Surgeon Gilchrist, who was under
suspension. ‘The opinion of the ward-room officers was asked in a
written circular, of which the following is a copy.

U.S. Ship Vincennes,
At Sea, January 31st, 1840.
GENTLEMEN,—

The receipt of the enclosed report of Drs. Fox and Whittle, relative
to the health and condition of the crew of this ship, at this time,
renders it necessary for me to decide whether it is expedient to push
farther south in exploration under the present circumstances.

As you are acquainted with all the circumstances, it is unnecessary
to repeat them, except to remark, that your opinion is requested before
I decide upon the course to be pursued, in consequence of the strong
bias self-interest might give me in the prosecution of our arduous
duties. J wish the report returned to me, and for you to communicate
your opinion in writing.

I am, respectfully, &c.,

Cuarutes WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
To the Ward-Room Officers,

U.S. Ship Vincennes.

The answers to this letter will be seen in Appendix XXVII.; and it
is sufficient here to say, that a majority concurred in opinion with the

320 _ ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

report of the medical officers. Notwithstanding these opinions, I was -
not satisfied that there was sufficient cause to change my original
determination of passing along to the appointed rendezvous; and after
full consideration of the matter, I came to the conclusion, at whatever
hazard to ship and crew, that it was my duty to proceed, and not
give up the cruise until the ship should be totally disabled, or it should
be evident to all that it was impossible to persist any longer. In
bringing myself to this decision, I believe that I viewed the case on all
sides with fairness, and allowed my duty to my country, my care for
those whom it had committed to my charge, and my responsibility to
the world, each to have its due weight.

The weather now moderated, and I ordered sail to be made. The
2d of February found us about sixty miles to the westward of Piner’s
Bay, steering to the southward, and as usual among ice-islands, with
the land in sight. ‘The land had the same lofty appearance as before.
We stood in until 3 rp. u., when we were within two and a half miles
of the icy cliffs by which the land was bounded on all sides. These
were from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet in height, quite
perpendicular, and there was no appearance whatever of rocks; all
was covered with ice and snow. A short distance from us to the
westward was a long range of icebergs aground, which, contrary to
the usual appearance, looked much weather-beaten. We tried for
soundings, but did not get any with one hundred and fifty fathoms,
although the water was much discoloured. The badness of the deep-
sea line was a great annoyance to us, for deeper soundings would pro-
bably have obtained bottom. No break in the icy barrier, where a
foot could be set on the rocks, was observable from aloft. The land
still trended to the westward as far as the eye could reach, and con-
tinued to exhibit the same character as before. Our longitude now
was 137° 02’ E., latitude 66° 12’ S.: we found the magnetic declina-
tion westerly. 7

This proved a fine day, so that we had an opportunity of airing the
men’s bedding, of ventilating the ship, and of getting rid of the ice,
with which we were much encumbered. The thermometer varied
from 33° to 36°. Our sick-list had increased the last few days to
twenty; many of the men were affected with boils, which rendered
them comparatively useless; and ulcers, which were caused by the
least scratch, were exceedingly prevalent; but their food was good,
they had plenty of it, and their spirits were excellent. The high land
was seen this afternoon, but the barrier along which we were passing
prevented any nearer approach. This evening it was perceptible that
the days were becoming shorter, which was a new source of anxiety,

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 321

for we were often surrounded by numerous ice-islands, which the
darkness rendered more dangerous.

Towards evening the weather became unsettled, and the 3d of
February was ushered in by another gale, accompanied with snow
The barometer fell lower than heretofore, namely, to 28-460 in.; the
thermometer stood at 33°. Before the thick snow came on, we had
taken the bearings of the ice-islands, and finding we had a few miles
comparatively free from them, I determined to await the result of the
storm, and made every thing snug to encounter it. The gale con-
tinued throughout the day, and although it moderated after 5 p. m., we
had some strong squalls, but nothing so violent as those we had already
experienced. ‘The ship, in consequence of the snow, became more
damp and uncomfortable, and our sick-list was increased to thirty,
who were rather overcome by want of rest and fatigue than affected
by any disease. To remedy the dampness, a stove was placed on the
sun-deck, and fires kept burning in the galleys on the berth-deck, more
for the purpose of drying the men’s clothes than for warmth. We
had no observations this day, but the dead-reckoning gave the longi-
tude 134° E., latitude 63° 49’ S. |

The 4th and 5th the weather continued the same. As the winds
became lighter thick snow fell, and we were able to see only a short
distance from the ship. We contrived by manceuvring to retain our
position. On this last day we got a tolerable observation, which gave
our longitude as 133° 42’ E., and latitude 64° 06’ S.

The first part of the 6th the same thick weather continued, but
towards 4 p. m., it began to clear, when we again made sail, until we
saw and took the bearings of the barrier. We found ourselves situ-
ated opposite the part of it we had seen three days before. It still had
the appearance of being attached to the land, and in one uninterrupted
line. Wishing to examine it closely, I hove-to for broad daylight.
Many whales, penguins, flocks of birds, and some seals, were reported.

On the 7th we had much better weather, and continued all day
running along the perpendicular icy barrier, about one hundred and
fifty feet in height. Beyond it the outline of the high land could be
well distinguished. At 6 p. m., we suddenly found the barrier trending
to the southward, and the sea studded with icebergs. I now hauled
off until daylight, in order to ascertain the ‘trending of the land more
exactly. I place this point, which I have named Cape Carr, after the
first-lieutenant of the Vincennes, in longitude 131° 40’ E., and latitude
64° 49’ 8.

On the 8th, at daylight, we again made sail to the southward, and
found at 4 a.m. the field of ice had stopped our progress, and the

VOL. Il. 41

322 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

weather was thick. Land was no longer seen to the south, a deep
bay apparently making in. We continued our course to the west-
ward along the barrier, until 8 p. m., when we were again brought to.
At 7 p.m. we had strong indications of land; the barrier was of the
former perpendicular form, and later the outline of the Continent ap-
peared distinct though distant. The night was dark and unpleasant.
At noon our longitude was 127° 07’ E., and latitude 65° 03’ S.; varia-
tion 14° 30’ westerly.

On the 9th we had the finest day we had yet experienced on this
coast; the wind had veered from the east to southwest, and given us
a clear, bracing, and wholesome atmosphere. The barrier exhibited
the same appearance as yesterday. Our longitude was 125° 19’ E.,
latitude 65° 08’ 8., variation 82° 45’ westerly. The current was tried,
but none found; the pot was only visible at five fathoms; the colour
of the water a dirty green; the dip sector gave 3'15”. I never saw
a clearer horizon, or one better defined than we had to the northward.
The icy barrier was really beautiful. At midnight we had a splendid
display of the aurora australis, extending all around the northern

AURORA AUSTRALI§. ;

horizon, from west-by-north to east-northeast. Before its appearance, a 3
a few clouds only were seen in the southeast, on which the setting )

~ ae oy

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 323

sun cast a red tint, that barely rendered them visible.. The horizon,
with this exception, appeared clear and well defined. ‘The spurs or
brushes of light paar reached the .zenith, converging to a point
near it.

Although ‘no clouds could be seen in the direction of the aurora,
before or after its appearance, yet when it was first seen, there
appeared clouds, of the form of massive cumuli, tinged with pale
yellow, and behind them arose brilliant red, purple, orange, and yellow
tints, streaming upwards in innumerable radiations, with all the shades
that a combination of these colours could effect. In its most brillant
state it lasted about twenty minutes. The gold-leaf electrometer was
tried, but without being aflected: the instrument, however, was not
very sensitive. Being somewhat surprised at the vast mass of cumuli
which appeared during the continuance of the aurora, | watched after
its disappearance till daylight, but could see only a few clouds: I am
therefore inclined to impute the phenomenon to some deception caused
by the light of the aurora. The apparent altitude of these clouds
was 8°. :t |

On the 10th we were again favoured by the weather; it gave us a
fine sunshine, and an opportunity of airing the ship and drying the
clothes. All the sick were improving in health.

Running close along the barrier, which continued of the same
character, although more broken than yesterday, we saw an appear-
ance of land, although indistinctly, to the southward. The water was
»of the same colour here as before, and the wind being from the south-
southeast, we made some progress, and found ourselves in longitude
122° 35’ E., latitude 65° 27' S.: the variation had now increased to
44° 30’ westerly. No aurora was seen this night, although it was
looked for anxiously.

11th. The barometer had been stationary at 29-080 in. for the ‘last
three days: it now began to fall; the temperature of the air was 31°,
of the water 32°. The fall of the barometer was soon followed ie
stiow and thick weather. The trending of the barrier had been south-
west-by-west, and a good deal of floe-ice had been met with, which
we ran through. The Sea was quite smooth, and many icebergs were
enclosed in the barrier, which was very compact and cya of
flat fields. At 10 vp. u., I found it too dark to run, and hove-to.

During the 12th we had pleasant weather, and at 2 a. m. filled away.
At 8 a. m., land was reported to the southwest. Keeping along the
barrier and increasing our latitude, I again had hopes of getting near
the land. We passed through great quantities of large floe-ice until 1

394 ' ANTARCTIC CRUISE

p. M., when the solid barrier prevented our farther progress. Land was
mow distinctly seen, from eighteen to twenty miles distant, bearing
from south-southeast to southwest,—a lofty mountain range, covered
with snow, though showing many ridges and indentations. I laid the
ship to for three ‘hows, j in fore: of discovering some opening or move-
ment in the ice, but none was experienced. JI tried the ‘current, and
found none. The water was of a dirty dark green. We sounded with
the wire-line in two hundred and fifty fathorse and found no bottom.
The temperature at that depth was 30°, of the air 31°. The barrier
had in places the appearance of being broken up, and we had decreased.
our longitude to 112° 16’ 12” E.., while our latitude: was 64° 57'S.
This puts the land in ‘about 65° 20’ S., and its trending nearly east and
west. ‘The line of the icy barrier was generally uniform, although it
was occasionally pierced with deep bays. We saw some icebergs
with decided spots of earth on'them, which gave me hopes of yet
obtaining the object of my wishes. The water was remarkably
smooth during this day, and the weather clear, enabling us to see a
great distance. Two hours after we bore away, we left the floe-ice,«
and entered a clear sea to the westward, where we lost sight of the
barrier for a time; but in hauling up to the southwest, it was, by
8 p. m., within three miles of us, when we again kept off parallel to its
trending. The appearance of land still continued. Shortly after, I
hove-to, for the purpose of awaiting the daylight to continue our
observations of the land, with little prospect or probability of reach-
ing it, from the immense quantity of ice which continued to form an*
impenetrable barrier. a a
13th. At 2 a.m. we made sail to the southwest, in order to close
with the barrier, which we found retreated in that direction, and gave
us every prospect of getting nearer to it. Our course, for the. most.
part, was through icebergs of tabular form. In the afternoon we had ~
the land ahead, and stood in for it with a light breeze until 62 ». m.,
when I judged it to be ten or twelve miles distant. It was. very
distinct, and extended from west-southwest to south-southeast. ‘We
were now in longitude 106° 40’ E., and latitude 65° 57’ S.; the varia-
tion was 54° 30' westerly. ‘The water was very green. We sounded
in three hundred fathoms, and found no bottom. The weather having
an unsettled appearance, we stood off to seek a clearer space for the
night. The land left was high, rounded, and covered with snow,
eeeeuiee that first. discovered, and had the opened of being .
bound by ‘perpendicular icy cliffs. j
14th. At daylight we again made sail for the land, beating in for : .

r

a - 7) , an
4.) -_

SKK)
aN .

shh

i iN

=

froma sketch by C Wilkes.U-S.N.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 325

until 11 a. m., when we found any further progress quite impossible. [
then judged that it was seven or eight miles distant. The day was
remarkably clear, and the land very distinct. By measurement, we
made the extent of coast of the Antarctic Continent, which was then
in sight, seventy-five miles, and by approximate measurement, three
thousand feet high. It was entirely covered with snow. Longitude at
noon, 106° 18’ 42” E., latitude 65° 59’ 40" S., variation 57° 05’ westerly.
On running in, we had passed several icebergs greatly discoloured
with earth, and finding we could not approach the shore any nearer, I
determined to land on the largest ice-island that seemed accessible, to
make dip, intensity, and variation observations. On coming up with
it, about one and a half miles from where the barrier had stopped us, I
hove the ship to, lowered the boats, and fortunately effected a landing.
We found embedded in it, in places, boulders, stones, gravel, sand, and
mud or clay. The larger specimens were of red sandstone and basalt.
No signs of stratification were to be seen in it, but it was in places
formed of icy conglomerate (if I may use the expression), composed of
large pieces of rocks, as it were frozen together, and the ice was
extremely hard and flint-like. The largest boulder embedded in it was
about five or six feet in diameter, but being situated under the shelf of the
iceberg, we were not able to get at it. Many specimens were obtained,
and it was amusing to see the eagerness and desire of all hands to possess
themselves of a piece of the Antarctic Continent. These pieces were
in great demand during the remainder of the cruise. In the centre of
this iceberg was found a pond of most delicious water, over which
was a scum of ice about ten inches thick. We obtained from it about
five hundred gallons. We remained upon this iceberg several hours,
and the men amused themselves to their hearts’ content in sliding.
The pond was three feet deep, extending over an area of an acre, and
contained sufficient water for half-a-dozen ships. ‘The temperature of
the water was 31°. This island had been undoubtedly turned partly
over, and had precisely the same appearance that the icy barrier
would have exhibited if it had been turned bottom up and subsequently
much worn by storms. There was no doubt that it had been detached
from the land, which was about eight miles distant. The view of the
land, ice, &c., taken from this ice-island, is exhibited in the opposite
plate, and gives a correct representation of these desolate regions.
Around the iceberg we found many species of zoophytes, viz.:
salpee, a beautiful specimen of clio helicina, some large pelagie, and
many small crustacea. I made several drawings of them. This day,

notwithstanding our disappointment in being still repelled from treading
2c

326 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

on the new continent, was spent with much gratification, and gave us
many new specimens from it.

Finding that we had reached the longitude of 105° E., before the
time anticipated, and being desirous to pursue the discoveries further
west, I left a signal flying on this berg, with a bottle containing
instructions for the other vessels, directing them to proceed to the
westward as far as they could, in the time which should remain prior
to the 1st of March. At 8 p.m. we joined the ship, and bore away
again to the westward, intending to pursue the route pointed out to
them.

On the 15th, we passed many icebergs much discoloured with
earth, stones, &c., none of which appeared of recent formation. The
weather this day became lowering, and the breeze fresh; we double-
reefed the topsails, and made every thing snug: the wind was from
the southward. At noon this day, we were in longitude 104° E.,
latitude 64° 06’ S. The sea had been remarkably smooth the last
few days, with no swell; and I began to entertain the idea that we
might have a large body of ice to the northward of us, for the position
where Cook found the barrier in 1773 was two hundred miles further
to the north. J] determined, however, to pass on in our explorations,
hoping they might enable me to join that of Enderby’s Land. I
deemed it a great object actually to prove the continuity with it if
possible; and if disappointed in this, I should at any rate ascertain
whether there had been any change in the ice in this quarter, since
the time of Cook, which had been done already near his Ne Plus
Ultra.

We had a vast number of whales about us this day, as well as
penguins, Cape pigeons, white and gray, and small and large petrels.
Some seals also were seen.

I was now happy to find the health of my crew had become re-
established, and that only a few remained on the sick-list. This, ]
think, was effected by constant attention to their being warmly clothed.

The icebergs were covered with penguins. Several officers landed
on the icebergs to get a few as specimens. On their return, some
penguins followed them closely, particularly one, who at last leaped
into the boat. It was supposed that its mate had been among those
taken, and that it had followed on that account. If this were the fact,
it would show a remarkable instinctive affection in this bird.

On the 16th, the barrier of ice trended to the northward, and we
were obliged to haul to the northeast, passing through a large number
of ice-islands, manv of which were stained with earth. In the after-

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 327

noon a large sea-elephant was discovered on the ice; two boats were
sent to effect his capture, and many balls were fired into him, but he
showed the utmost indifference to their effect, doing no more than to
raise his head at each shot. He contrived to escape by floundering
over the ice until he reached the water, in which he was quite a
different being. At about 7 p. m., Dr. Fox was despatched in a boat
to visit an ice-island that was very much discoloured with clay in
patches. He reported that there was upon it a large pond of muddy
water, not frozen, although the temperature on board was much below
the freezing point. We observed around the icebergs numerous right
whales, puffing in all directions. A large quantity of small crustacea,
including shrimps, were here seen around the icebergs. These are
believed to be the cause that attracts whales to these parts; they also
supply the numerous penguins with their food. For several days |
observed a great difference in the wind, by day and by night. It had
been fresh from the hour of seven in the morning until 8 p. m., when
it generally becomes light or dies away altogether. ‘To-day we found
ourselves in longitude 99° E., and latitude 64° 21’ S. We to-day
nade observations throughout the twenty-four hours with Leslie’s
photometer. These results will be found embraced in the volume of
Meteorology.

On the 17th, about 10 a. m., we discovered the barrier extending
in a line ahead, and running north and south as far as the eye could
reach. Appearances of land were also seen to the southwest, and its
trending seemed to be to the northward. We were thus cut off from
any further progress to the westward, and obliged to retrace our steps.
This position of the ice disappointed me, although it concurred with
what was reasonably to be expected. We were now in longitude 97°
37’ E., and latitude 64° O01’ S.; our variation was 56° 21’ westerly,
being again on the decrease. To-day we had several snow-squalls,
which, instead of being in flakes, was in small grains, as round as
shot, and of various sizes, from that of mustard-seed to buckshot. It
was remarkably dry, pure white, and not at all like hail. We found
the bay we had entered was fifty or sixty miles in depth, and having
run in on its southern side, I determined to return along its northern
shore, which we set about with much anxiety, as the weather began
to change for the worse. Our situation was by no means such as |
should have chosen to encounter bad weather in, the bay being
sprinkled with a great many large icebergs. Here we met with a
large number of whales, whose curiosity seemed awakened by our
presence. Their proximity, however, was any thing but pleasant to
us, and their blowings resembled that of a number of locomotives.

328 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

Their close approach was a convincing proof that they had never
been exposed to the pursuit of their skilful hunters. They were of the
fin-back species, and of extraordinary size.

Between ten and eleven o’clock at night it was entirely clear over
head, and we were gratified with a splendid exhibition of the aurora
australis. Jt exceeded any thing of the kind | had heretofore witnessed;
its activity was inconceivable, darting from the zenith to the horizon
in all directions in the most brilliant coruscations; rays proceeding as
if from a point in the zenith, flashed in brilliant pencillings of light,
like sparks of electric fluid in vacuo, and reappeared again to vanish;
forming themselves into one body, like an umbrella, or fan, shut up;
again emerging to flit across the sky with the rapidity of light, they
showed all the prismatic colours at once or in quick succession. So
remarkable were the phenomena that even our sailors were constantly
exclaiming in admiration of its brilliancy. The best position in which
to view it was by lying flat upon the deck, and looking up. The
electrometer was tried, but no effect perceived. The star Canopus
was in the zenith at the time, and though visible through the aurora,
was much diminished in brightness. On this night also the moon was
partially eclipsed.

Large icebergs had now become very numerous, and strengthened
the belief that the land existing in this vicinity had taken a very
decided trend to the northward. I accordingly followed up the
northern barrier closely, and passed through the thickest of these bergs,
well knowing from our experience that we should have little or no
opportunity of seeing the land, unless on the inner side of them. It
appeared as though they had collected here from other places, and it
is impossible to form an idea of the small space to which we were at
times confined. Upwards of one hundred ice-islands could be counted
at a time without the aid of a glass, some of which were several miles
long. We enjoyed this beautiful sight with the more pleasure, for we
had become used to them, and knew from experience that it was
possible to navigate through them without accident.

On the 18th, we continued beating to the eastward, and found no
end to the apparently interminable barrier. We had a smooth sea,
and better weather than I anticipated. At noon, we had retraced our
way about forty miles. ‘To-day we again had snow, which fell in the
form of regular six-pointed stars. The needles of which these stars
were formed were quite distinct, and of regular crystals. The tem-
perature at the time was 28°. The barometer stood at 28°76 in., about
three-tenths lower than we had had it for the last twelve days. The
wind was easterly.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 329

19th. During this day the barrier trended more to the northeast,
and we not unfrequently entered bays so deep as to find ourselves, on
reaching the extremity, cut off by the barrier, and compelled to return
to within a few miles of the place where we had entered. I thought
at first that this might have been caused by the tide or current, but
repeated trials showed none. Neither did I detect any motion in the
floating ice except what was caused by the wind. Our longitude to-
day was 101° E., latitude 638° 02'S. Some anxiety seemed to exist
among the officers and crew lest we should find ourselves embayed or
cut off from the clear sea, by a line of barrier. There appeared strong
reason for this apprehension, as the smooth sea we had had for several
days still continued; we had been sailing as if upon a river, and the
water had not assumed its blue colour.

It was, therefore, with great pleasure that, on the 20th, a slight
swell was perceived, and the barrier began to trend more to the north-
ward, and afterwards again to the westward. In the morning we found
ourselves still surrounded by great numbers of ice-islands. After
obtaining a tolerably clear space, the day being rather favourable, we
sounded with the deep-sea line eight hundred and fifty fathoms. Six’s
thermometer gave at the surface 31°, and at the depth of eight hundred
and fifty fathoms 35°, an increase of four degrees. The current was
again tried, but none was found. A white object was visible at eleven
fathoms. ‘The water had now assumed a bluish cast.

We endeavoured to-day to land on an iceberg, but there was too
much sea. Shrimps were in great quantities about it, but swam too
deep to be taken. The wind again hauled to the westward, which
disappointed me, as I was in hopes of getting to the position where
Cook saw the ice in 1773, being now nearly in the same latitude. It
was less than one hundred miles to the westward of us; and little
doubt can exist that its situation has not materially changed in sixty-
seven years.

The observations of the squadron during this season’s Antarctic
cruise, together with those of the preceding year, would seem to
confirm the opinion that very little change takes place in the line of
ice. It may be inferred that the line of perpetual congelation exists in
a lower latitude in some parts of the southern hemisphere than in
others. The icy barrier retreats several degrees to the south of the
Antarctic Circle to the west of Cape Horn, while to the eastward it in
places advances to the northward of that line, which is no doubt owing
to the situation of the land. From the great quantities of ice to be
found drifting in all parts of the ocean in high southern latitudes, I am
induced to believe that the formation of the ice-islands is much more

VOL. II. wen 42

330 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

rapid than is generally supposed. The manner of their formation
claimed much of my attention while among them, and I think it may
be explained satisfactorily and without difficulty. In the first place,
I conceive that ice requires a nucleus, whereon the fogs, snow, and
rain, may congeal and accumulate; this the land affords. Accident
then separates part of this mass of ice from the land, when it drifts off,
and is broken into many pieces, and part of this may again join that
which is in process of formation. The sketch in Chapter IX. has
already given the reader some idea of its appearance in this state.
From the accumulation of snow, such a mass speedily assumes a
flat or table-topped shape, and continues to increase. As these layers
accumulate, the field-ice begins to sink, each storm (there of frequent
occurrence) tending to give it more weight. The part which is now
attached to the land remains aground, whilst that which is more
remote being in deep water is free to sink. The accumulated weight
on its outer edge produces fissures or fractures at the point where it
takes the ground, which the frosts increase; thus separated, the surface
again becomes horizontal, and continues to receive new layers from
snow, rain, and even fogs, being still retained to the parent mass by
the force of attraction. The fogs have no small influence in con-
tributing to the accumulation: some idea may be formed of the
increase from this cause, from the fact that during a few hours the ice
accumulated to the thickness of a quarter of an inch on our rigging
and spars, though neither rain nor snow fell. It may, therefore, I
think, be safely asserted that these icebergs are at all times on the
increase; for there are few days, according to our experience in this
climate, in which some mode of precipitation does not prevail in these
high latitudes, where, according to our observations, ice seldom melts.
The temperature of even the summer months being rarely above the
freezing point, masses of a thousand feet in thickness might require

TABULAR ICEBERG.

but few years to form. Icebergs were seen in all stages of formation,
from five to two hundred feet above the surface, and each exposed its

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 331

stratification in horizontal layers from six inches to four feet in thick-
ness. When the icebergs are fully formed, they have a. tabular and
stratified appearance, and are perfectly wall-sided, varying from one
hundred and eighty to two hundred and ten feet in height. These
were frequently found by us in their original situation, attached to the
land, and having the horizontal stratification distinctly visible.

In some places we sailed for more than fifty miles together, along a
straight and perpendicular wall, from one hundred and fifty to two
hundred feet in height, with the land behind it. The icebergs found
along the coast afloat were from a quarter of a mile to five miles in
length; their separation from the land may be effected by severe frost
rending them asunder, after which the violent and frequent storms
may be considered a sufficient cause to overcome the attraction which
holds them to the parent mass. In their next stage they exhibit the
process of decay, being found fifty or sixty miles from the land, and
for the most part with their surfaces inclined at a considerable angle
to the horizon. This is caused by a change in the position of the
centre of gravity, arising from the abrading action of the waves.

INCLINED ICEBERG.

By our observations on the temperature of the sea, it is evident that
these ice-islands can be little changed by the melting process before
they reach the latitude of 60°. The temperature of the sea (as
observed by the vessels going to and returning from the south),
showed but little change above this latitude, and no doubt it was at its
maximum, as it was then the height of the summer season.

During their drift to the northward, on reaching lower latitudes, and
as their distance from the land increases, they are found in all stages
of decay; some forming obelisks; others towers and Gothic arches;
and all more or less perforated: some exhibit lofty columns, with a
natural bridge resting on them of a lightness and beauty inconceivable
in any other material. The following wood-cut and the tail-pieces of
the chapters are sketches of some of them.

While in this state, they rarely exhibit any signs of stratification

oa ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

and some appear to be formed of a soft and porous ice; others are
quite blue; others again show a green tint, and are of hard flinty ice.

== ===" H
== ——— =
— fm =o Wy \¥q

SE a

ICEBERG.

Large ice-islands are seen that retain their tabular tops nearly entire
until they reach a low latitude, when their dissolution rapidly ensues ;
whilst some have lost all resemblance to their original formation, and
had evidently been overturned. The process of actually rending
asunder was not witnessed by any of the vessels, although in the
Flying-Fish, when during fogs they were in close proximity to large
ice-islands, they inferred from the loud crashing, and the sudden
splashing of the sea on her, that such occurrences had taken place.
As the bergs gradually become worn by the abrasion of the sea, they
in many cases form large overhanging shelves, about two or three feet
above the water, extending out ten or twelve feet; the under part of
this projecting mass exhibits the appearance of a collection of icicles
hanging from it. The temperature of the water when among the
icebergs, was found below or about the freezing point.

I have before spoken of the boulders embedded in the icebergs. All
those that [ had an opportunity of observing, apparently formed a part
of the nucleus, and were surrounded by extremely compact ice, so
that they appear to be connected with that portion of the ice that
would be the last to dissolve, and these boulders would therefore in all
probability, be carried to the farthest extent of their range before they
were let loose or deposited. ;

The ice-islands, on being detached from their original place ot
formation by some violent storm, are conveyed to the westward by
the southeast winds which are prevalent here, and are found, the first
season after their separation, about seventy miles north of the barrier.
This was inferred from the observations of both the Vincennes and
Porpoise, the greatest number having been found about that distance
from the barrier. That these were recently detached is proven by
their stratified appearance; while those at a greater distance had lost

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 333

their primitive form, were much worn, and showed many more signs
of decay. Near the extreme point of the barrier visited, in longitude
97° E., latitude 62° 30’ S., and where it begins to trend to the west-
ward, vast collections of these islands were encountered. From this
point they must pass to the northward during the next season, partly
influenced by the current, and partly scattered by the prevailing winds,
until they reach the sixtieth degree of latitude, when they encounter
the easterly and north-easterly streams that are known to prevail,
which carry them rapidly to the north.

Our data for their actual drift, though not altogether positive, are
probably the best that can be had, and will go far towards ascertain-
ing the velocity of their progress to lower latitudes; our observations
also furnish some estimate of the time in which they are formed. On
our way south, we did not fall in with ice-islands until we reached
latitude 61° 8S. The Peacock was the first to return, and nearly upon
the track by which we had gone south; the last seen by her was in
55° 8. The Vincennes, on her return fifty days later, saw them in
51° $8. The Porpoise, about the same time, in 538° 8. The observa-
tion in the Vincennes gives a distance of ten degrees of latitude, or
six hundred miles to be passed over in fifty days, which would give
about half a mile an hour; or, taking the Peacock’s observations, a
more rapid rate would be given, nearly three-fourths of a mile. Many
icebergs were met in the latitude of 42° S., by outward-bound ships to
Sydney, in the month of November ; these, I learned, were much worn,
and showed lofty pinnacles, exhibiting no appearance of having ever
been of a tabular form. These no doubt are such as were detached
during a former season, and being disengaged from the barrier, would
be naturally, early the next season, drifted by the easterly current as
well as the westerly wind, and would pursue the direction they give
them. They would therefore be driven to the northeast as far as the
southwest winds prevail, and when these veer to the westward would
receive an easterly direction. It is where these winds prevail that
they are most frequently found by the outward-bound vessels,—be-
tween the latitudes of 40° and 50° 8.

Respecting the period of time required for the formation of these
ice-islands, much light cannot be expected to be thrown on the subject ;
but the few facts derived from observations lead to some conclusions.
Many of them were measured, and their altitude found to be from
fifty to two hundred and fifty feet; eighty distinct stratifications
were counted in some of the highest, and in the smallest thirty,
which appeared to average a little more than two feet in thickness.

304 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

Supposing the average fall of snow in these high latitudes to be an inch
a day, or thirty feet a year, the largest icebergs would take more than
thirty years to form. They were seen by us in all the stages of their
growth, and all bore unequivocal marks of the same origin. The dis-
tance from the land at which they were forming, fully satisfied me that
their fresh water could only be derived from the snows, &c.

The movement of the ice along the coast is entirely to the west-
ward, and all the large ranges of ice-islands and bergs were found in
that direction, while the eastern portion was comparatively free from
it. A difference was found in the position of the floe-ice by the
different vessels, caused rather by the wind than by the tide. When
the Vincennes and Porpoise passed the opening by which the Peacock
entered, it was found closed, although only twenty-four hours had
elapsed. It has been seen that the ice had much movement during the
time the Peacock was beset by it, and the bay was all but closed when
she effected her escape. Another instance occurred, where the Por-
poise, in about the longitude of 130° E., found the impracticable
barrier a few miles further south than the Vincennes did six or seven
days after; but this fact is not to be received as warranting any
general conclusion, on account of the occurrence of southeast gales
during the intermediate time. The trials for currents have, for the
most part, shown none to exist. The Porpoise, it is true, experienced
some, but these were generally after a gale. If currents do exist, their
tendency is westward, which I think the drift of the ice would clearly
prove. The difference between the astronomic positions and those
given by dead-reckoning, was of no avail here as a test,* for the
courses of the vessels among the ice were so tortuous, that the latter
could not be depended upon.

The winds which prevail from the southwest to the southeast occa-
sionally bring clear weather, interrupted by flurries of snow ; the north
wind is light, and brings thick fogs, attended by a rise of temperature.
Extremes of weather are experienced in rapid succession, and it is
truly a fickle climate.

The evidence that an extensive continent lies within the icy barrier,
must have appeared in the account of my proceedings, but will be, I
think, more forcibly exhibited by a comparison with the aspect of other
lands in the same southern parallel. Palmer’s Land, for instance,
which is in like manner invested with ice, is so at certain seasons of

* The fact of there being no northerly current along this extended line of coast, is a
etrong proof in my mind of its being a continent, instead of a range of islands.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 335

the year only, while at others it is quite clear, because strong currents
prevail there, which sweep the ice off to the northeast. Along the
Antarctic Continent for the whole distance explored, which is upwards
of fifteen hundred miles, no open strait is found. The coast, where the
ice permitted approach, was found enveloped with a perpendicular
barrier, in some cases unbroken for fifty miles. If there was only a
chain of islands, the outline of the ice would undoubtedly be of another
form; and it is scarcely to be conceived that so long a chain could
extend so nearly in the same parallel of latitude. The land has none
of the abruptness of termination that the islands of high southern lati-
tudes exhibit ; and I am satisfied that it exists in one uninterrupted line
of coast, from Ringgold’s Knoll, in the east, to Enderby’s Land, in the
west ; that the coast (at longitude 95° E.) trends to the north, and this
will account for the icy barrier existing, with little alteration, where it
was seen by Cook in 1773. The vast number of ice-islands conclu-
sively points out that there is some extensive nucleus which retains
them in their position; for I can see no reason why the ice should not
be disengaged from islands, if they were such, as happens in all other
cases in like latitudes. The formation of the coast is different from
what would probably be found near islands, soundings being obtained
in comparatively shoal water; and the colour of the water also indi-
cates that it is not like other southern lands, abrupt and precipitous.
This cause is sufficient to retain the huge masses of ice, by their being
attached by their lower surfaces instead of their sides only.

Much inquiry and a strong desire has been evinced by geologists, to
ascertain the extent to which these ice-islands travel, the boulders and
masses of earth they transport, and the direction they take.

F’rom my own observations, and the information I have collected,
there appears a great difference in the movements of these vast masses ;
in some years, great numbers of them have floated north from the
Antarctic Circle, and even at times obstructed the navigation about
the capes. The year 1832 was remarkable in this respect; many
vessels bound round Cape Horn from the Pacific, were obliged to put
back to Chili, in consequence of the dangers arising from ice; while,
during the preceding and following years, little or none was seen: this
would lead to the belief, that great changes must take place in the
higher latitudes, or the prevalence of some cause to detach the ice-
islands from the barrier in such great quantities as to cover almost the
entire section of the ocean, south of the latitude 50° 8. Taking the
early part of the (southern) spring, as the time of separation, we are
enabled to make some estimate of the velocity with which they move:

336 ANTARCTIC CRUISE,

many masters of vessels have met them, some six or seven hundred
miles from the barrier, from sixty to eighty days after this period,
which will give a near approximation to our results heretofore
stated. .

The season of 1839 and ’40 was considered as an open one, from
the large masses of ice that were met with in a low latitude, by vessels
that arrived from Europe at Sydney: many of them were seen as far
north as latitude 42° S.

The causes that prevail to detach and carry them north, are difficult
to assign. I have referred to the most probable ones that would
detach them from the parent mass in their formation. Our frequent
trials of currents, as has been stated, did not give us the assurance that
any existed; but there is little doubt in my mind that they do prevail.
I should not, however, look to a surface current as being the motive
power that carries these immense masses at the rate they move; com-
paratively speaking, their great bulk is below the influence of any
surface current, and the rapid drift of these masses by winds is still
more improbable; therefore I conceive we must look to an under
current as their great propeller. In one trial of the deep-sea thermo-
meter, we found the temperature beneath, four degrees warmer than
the surface. Off Cape Horn, the under temperature was found as cold
as among the ice itself; repeated experiments have shown the same to
occur in the Arctic regions. From this I would draw the conclusion
that changes are going on, and it appears to me to be very reasonable
to suppose, that at periods, currents to and from the poles should at
times exist; it is true, we most generally find the latter to prevail, as
far as our knowledge of facts extends, but we have not sufficient infor-
mation yet to decide that there is not a reflow towards the pole; the
very circumstance of the current setting from the higher latitudes,
would seem a good argument that there must be some counter-current
to maintain the level of the waters. These masses, then, are most
probably carried away in the seasons when the polar streams are the
strongest, and are borne along by them at the velocity with which
they move: that these do not occur annually may be inferred from
the absence of ice-islands in the lower latitudes; and that it is not
from the scarcity of them, those who shared the dangers of the
Antarctic cruise, will, I have little doubt, be ready to testify; for,
although great numbers of them studded the ocean that year, yet the
narrative shows that vast numbers of them were left. |

The specific gravity of the ice varies very much, as might naturally
be expected; for while some of it is porous and of a snowy texture,

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. Sol

other islands are in great part composed of a compact blue flinty ice.
This difference is occasioned by the latter becoming saturated with
water, which afterwards freezes.

On the ice there was usually a covering of about two feet of snow,
which in places had upon it a crust of ice not strong enough to bear
the weight of a man. Those ice-islands, which after having been
once seen were again passed through immediately after a gale, were
observed to be changed in appearance; but though for forty-eight
hours a severe storm had been experienced, they had not undergone so
great a transformation as not to be recognised. ‘They also appeared
to have shifted their position with regard to one another, their former
bias and trendings being broken up.

During our stay on the icy coast, I saw nothing of what is termed
_ pack-ice,—that is, pieces forced one upon the other by the action of
the sea or currents.

On the 21st, the weather became unsettled, with light westerly winds,
and we made but little progress to the westward. ‘The barrier, at 6
Pp. M., Was seen trending to the westward. In consequence of indica-
tions that threatened bad weather, I deemed it useless risk to remain in
the proximity of so many ice-islands; and a strong breeze, with squally
weather, having already set in, I took advantage of it, feeling satisfied
that our farther continuance in this icy region would not only be
attended with peril to the ship, but would cause a waste of the time
which was demanded by my other duties; and having nearly three
thousand miles to sail to our next port (Bay of Islands), I made up my
mind to turn the head of the vessel northward.

I therefore had the officers and crew called aft, thanked them all
for their exertions and good conduct during the trying scenes they had
gone through, congratulated them on the success that had attended
us, and informed them that I had determined to bear up and return
north.

Having only twenty-five days’ full allowance of water, I ordered its
issue to be reduced to half allowance.

I have seldom seen so many happy faces, or such rejoicings, as the
announcement of my intention to return produced. But although the
crew were delighted at the termination of this dangerous cruise, not a
word of impatience or discontent had been heard during its continu-
ance. Neither had there been occasion for punishment; and I could
not but be thankful to have been enabled to conduct the ship through
so difficult, and dangerous a navigation without a single accident, with
a crew in as good, if not in a better condition than when we first

VOL. Il. 2D 43

338 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

reached the icy barrier. For myself, I indeed felt worse for the
fatigues and anxieties I had undergone ; but I was able to attend to all
my duties, and considered myself amply repaid for my impaired health
by the important discoveries we had made, and the success that had
attended our exertions.

I shall now leave the Vincennes to pursue her route northward, and
return to the Porpoise, the result of whose proceedings will be detailed
in the following chapter.

ICE-ISLAND.

CHAPTER XI.

CONTENTS.

PROCEEDINGS OF THE PORPOISE FROM THE TWENTY-SECOND TO THE THIRTIETH OF
JANUARY — FRENCH SQUADRON SEEN—ITS COMMANDER REFUSES TO SPEAK THE
PORPOISE— PROCEEDINGS UP TO THE THIRD OF FEBRUARY—GALE—FURTHER PRO-
CEEDINGS TO THE TWELFTH OF FEBRUARY —SPECIMENS OF ROCK OBTAINED —
WESTERN LIMIT OF HER CRUISE—RETURN TO THE EASTWARD—PORPOISE STANDS
TO THE NORTHWARD — AUCKLAND ISLANDS—PORPOISE ARRIVES AT THE BAY OF
ISLANDS — CRUISE OF THE FLYING- FISH — LANDING AT MACQUARIE’S ISLAND —
PROCEEDINGS OF THE FLYING-FISH UP TO THE FOURTH OF FEBRUARY—STATE OF
HER CREW—THEIR LETTER TO LIEUTENANT PINKNEY—HE RESOLVES TO RETURN—
ARRIVAL OF THE FLYING-FISH AT THE BAY OF- ISLANDS—EVENTS DURING THE
RETURN OF THE VINCENNES—SHE FAILS TO REACH VAN DIEMEN’S LAND—ARRIVAL
OF THE VINCENNES AT SYDNEY—PEACOCK FOUND THERE—RETURN OF THE PEA-
COCK FROM THE ICY BARRIER—SHE MAKES MACQUARIE’S ISLAND—SHE ARRIVES AT °
SYDNEY—STATE OF THE PEACOCK—HOSPITALITIES RECEIVED AT SYDNEY.

(339)

CHAPTER XI.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE—CONTINUED.

1840.

Own the 22d January, the Porpoise lost sight of the Peacock, and
continued beating to the southwest. The weather was extremely
cold; sea-water froze on being a few minutes in the bucket on deck.
Some shrimps were caught. The water at 3 p. m. was much dis-
coloured; got a cast of the lead with two hundred fathoms: no
bottom; found the current south-by-east three-fourths of a mile per
hour. At 4" 30", passed large icebergs, one of which had several
dark horizontal veins, apparently of earth, through it; large quantities
of floe and drift-ice to the southward; the sea very smooth. A report
of high land was made this morning; indeed every thing indicated
the proximity of land. The number of seals, whales, penguins,
shrimps, &c., had very much increased. The pure white pigeons
were also seen in numbers.

23d. Countless icebergs in sight; the sea quite smooth; not the
slightest motion perceptible. At meridian, they were in latitude
66° 44’ S., longitude 151° 24’ E., and close to the barrier, which
appeared quite impenetrable, as far as the eye could reach from aloft,
to the north-northwest and north-northeast, with numberless immense
ice-islands entangled and enclosed in it in all directions. The position
they occupied seemed an inlet of elliptical shape, with an opening to
the north. It was needless to count the many scattering islands of ice
distinct from the vast chain; intermingled with field-ice, they studded
the gulf like so many islands, of various shapes and dimensions. At
2 25™, a sail was discovered on the lee bow; kept off to communi-

cate, supposing it to be the Vincennes or Peacock. At 2' 30", the
2D2 (341)

342 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

Peacock was made out on the southern board, showing no disposition
to communicate; showed our colours, and hauled to. the westward.

24th. The day was remarkably fine, such as is seldom experienced
in this region. ‘The water appeared much -discoloured and of a dirty
olive-green colour. At meridian, they again made the field-ice, and
tacked to the northward, passing through large quantities of ice-
islands; weather looking bad, with occasional light snow-storms.

25th. Part of this day was clear and pleasant, though snow fell at
intervals; the field-ice was in sight several times, and many ice-
islands of great size and beauty. Penguins were swimming round,
and also several shoals of black-fish; a black albatross was shot;
towards night the weather became very thick; they were in longitude
150° E., latitude 65° 56’ S.

26th. Fresh winds blowing from the eastward; during the first few
hours, a thick snow-storm; at 4 a. m. it cleared; at six o’clock made
a sail; the strange sail fired a gun and made signal, when we bore
down and spoke her; she proved to be the Vincennes; compared
chronometers, and received rate; bore off to the westward under all
sail; found the drift and floe-ice very thick, and were with great diffi-
culty enabled to navigate through it; wind fresh, with a long swell
from the southwest; at 55 30™, the ice increasing in quantity, found it
was necessary to haul off. Lost sight of the Vincennes; weather very
threatening. ‘The course during the day proved a very tortuous one;
many penguins resting on the ice; their gait is an awkward kind of
strut.

Received orders to-day by signal to meet the Vincennes along the
icy barrier between the 20th and 28th of next month.

27th. This day proved clear and cold; wind from the southwest;
ice forming rapidly on the vessel; at meridian, lost sight of the
Vincennes; very many ice-islands in sight; latitude 65° 41’ S., longi-
tude 142° 31’ EK. On this day, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold
determined with the fair wind to pass to the extreme limit of his
orders, longitude 105° E.; being of opinion he would thereby save
time, and be enabled more effectually to examine the barrier with
what he thought would be found the prevailing wind, viz.: that from
the westward ; in this, however, he was mistaken.

The 28th set in with a light breeze from east-northeast; made all
sail; at 5 a. m., wind increasing rapidly, snow falling fast, and weather
becoming thick; at six o’clock, made the floe and drift-ice; shortened
sail, and hauled off to the northwest, it becoming so thick as to render
any advance unsafe; until meridian, very strong winds from the east-

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 343

ward, the brig under close-reefed topsails; at 2 p. m. found it difficult
and hazardous to proceed, passing within a short distance of ice-
islands, and just seeing them dimly through the obscurity; at three,
the brig was hove-to, and Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold says, in
reference to their situation—

«J felt great anxiety to proceed, but the course was so perilous, the
extent and trend of the barrier so uncertain, I could not reconcile it
with prudence to advance. The frequent falling in with fields of
drift-ice, the numerous and often closely-grouped chains of icebergs,
were sufficient to point out discretion. The long-extended barrier
was encountered in latitude 65° 08’ S.; at twelve to-day our position
was 65° 16’ S.; it is easy to perceive the possibility of a trend
northerly again, which would have placed us in a large and dangerous
gulf, with a heavy gale blowing directly on, without a hope of escape.

“ At 8 p.m, blowing very heavy; the snow falling rendered vision
beyond a few yards impossible; I have seldom experienced a heavier
blow, and towards the conclusion the squalls were severe and frequent.”

The barometer at 3 a.m, stood at 28-200 in., the lowest point it
reached during the gale. The temperature of the air was 26°.

The severe gale continued during the 29th, with a heavy sea, and
snow falling thickly; at 8 a.m. the gale abated, and the clouds broke
away; through the day the sun occasionally out; the weather ap-
peared unsettled; the sun set red and fiery; the latitude was observed
64° 46’ S., longitude 137° 16’ E.

On the 30th they stood again to the southwest; at 2 a. m. they made
the barrier of field-ice, extending from southeast to west, when it
became necessary to haul more to the northwest; the weather be-
coming thick with a heavy fall of snow, at four o’clock, the wind
increasing, compelled them to shorten sail; at 7* 30™ the ice in fields
was discovered close aboard, heading west; at this time hauled imme-
diately on a wind to the northeast, and soon passed out of sight of the
ice and out of danger; during the day blowing a gale of wind, and
very heavy sea running, passing occasional ice-islands; at meridian,
being clear of the barrier, the brig was hove-to under storm-sails, to
await the clearing of the weather. In the afternoon the weather
showed signs of clearing; the sun coming out, again made sail to
approach the barrier; no ice in sight; great numbers of black petrels
about.

At 4 p.m. discovered a ship ahead, and shortly after another was
made, both standing to the northward; the brig hauled up to the north-
west, intending to cut them off and speak them, supposing them to be
the Vincennes and the Peacock; shortly afterwards they were seen to

344 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

be strangers, being smaller ships than our own; at 4" 30™ the Porpoise
hoisted her colours. Knowing that an English squadron under Captain
Ross was expected in these seas, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold
took them for his ships, and was, as he says, “ preparing to cheer the
discoverer of the North Magnetic Pole.”

«At 45 50™, being within a mile and a half, the strangers showed
French colours: the leeward and sternmost displayed a broad pen-
nant; concluded now that they must be the French discovery ships
under Captain D’Urville, on a similar service with ourselves: desirous
of speaking and exchanging the usual and customary compliments
incidental to naval life, I closed with the strangers, desiring to pass
within hail under the flag ship’s stern. While gaining fast, and being
within musket-shot, my intentions too evident to excite a doubt, so far
from any reciprocity being evinced, I saw with surprise sail making
by boarding the main tack on board the flag-ship. Without a moment’s
delay, I hauled down my colours and bore up on my course before the
wind.”

It is with regret that I mention the above transaction, and it cannot
but excite the surprise of all that such a cold repulse should have come
from a French commander, when the officers of that nation are usually
so distinguished for their politeness and attention. It was with no
small excitement I heard the report of it,—that the vessels of two
friendly powers, alike engaged upon an arduous and hazardous service,
in so remote a region, surrounded with every danger navigators could
be liable to, should meet and pass without even the exchange of
common civilities, and exhibit none of the kind feelings that the situa-
tion would naturally awaken:—how could the French commander
know that the brig was not in distress or in want of assistance? By
refusing to allow any communication with him, he not only committed
a wanton violation of all proper feeling, but a breach of the courtesy
due from one nation to another. It is difficult to imagine what could
have prompted him to such a course.

At 6 p.m. the weather again was thick, with the wind southeasterly ;
field-ice again in sight; it commenced snowing and the French ships
were lost sight of. At 8 p.m, they passed in sight of large fields of
ice and ice-islands; at 10% 30™, the snow falling so dense and the
weather so thick, that it was impossible to see the brig’s length in any
direction ; she was hove-to, to await a change of weather.

The beginning of the 31st the gale continued; at 7 a. m. moderating,
they again made sail to the westward; in half an hour discovered a
high barrier of ice to the northward, with ice-islands to the south-
ward; at 10 a.m., they found themselves in a great inlet formed by

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 345

vast fields of ice, which they had entered twelve hours previously ; the
‘ only opening appearing to the eastward, they were compelled to
retrace their steps, which they effected at 8 p. m., passing some ice-
islands which they recognised as having been seen the evening before.
They now found themselves out of this dangerous position, and,
passing the point, kept away to the westward. Lieutenant-Com-
mandant Ringgold judged it prudent to heave-to during the night, on
account of the darkness.

February 1st. The immense perpendicular barrier encountered yes-
terday was now in sight, trending as far as the eye could reach to the
westward; it was of tabular form, from one hundred and fifty to one
hundred and eighty feet in height, of solid compact ice, resembling a
long line of coast; wind moderate from the southeast,—a brilliant
blink extending along and elevated above the barrier. At 4p. m, they
arrived at the end of this barrier, and found it trending off to the
southward, seeming as if numbers of icebergs had been broken from
the barrier by some mighty force, exceeding in numbers any thing
that had yet been seen, and extending as far south as could be dis-
tinguished, interspersed with much drift and floe-ice. On the southern
horizon sixty-four ice-islands were counted, exclusive of many near
them, and those that were not distinguishable from the barrier.

The current was tried here, and found setting southeast nearly a
mile an hour. Pigeons around in numbers, also wales and large
flocks of penguins.

The nights now evidently lengthened, thus adding to the cares and
anxieties attendant on this navigation. _ It was. fortunate that the pre-
vailing winds were from the southeast and southwest, or coming off
the ice. If they had blown from the northward, they would have been
attended with danger, and might have proved fatal to the vessel.

2d. At meridian, in longitude 130° 36’ E., and latitude 65° 24’ S.
They were prevented from proceeding farther to the southward by the
impenetrable icy barrier. At this time they had one hundred large
ice-islands in sight, without counting any of the smaller bergs, which
were innumerable; saw great numbers of penguins and some seals
(Phoca proboscida). The current was tried here, and found setting
as yesterday, and at the same rate.

At 8 p.m., were obliged to retrace their steps to the northward, the
weather becoming thick, with light snow. At eleven, constant and
thick snow-storm, and unable to see any distance; the gale continuing,
lay-to under a close-reefed ‘main-topsail. The vignette, from a sketch
by Mr. Totten will give some idea of her situation.

VOL. II. 44

346° ANTARCTIC CRUISE.:.

.

3d. A gale from southeast, heavy sea rising; occasionally passing
ice-islands and field-ice. The gale continued throughout the day, but
moderated towards midnight; the sea was heavy, the weather thick,
and the brig completely covered with ice and snow. The barometer
fell to 28-040 in. ‘Temperature of the air 32°

4th. Although the wind was moderate, yet it was so thick and foggy
as to preclude bearing up. ‘Towards meridian it cleared sufficiently
for them to bear up and continue their examinations. To day the
current was found west-northwest, three quarters of a mile per hour.

On the 5th they had a beautiful day,—no climate or region, Lieu-
tenant-Commandant Ringgold remarks, could have produced a finer:
this gave them an opportunity of thoroughly drying every thing and
ventilating the vessel, which was much required; standing to the
northward, in order to make a long board to the westward ; the longi-
tude 127° 08’ E., latitude 63° 22’ S.; few ice-islands in sight, and
those appeared much worn, showing marks of rapid decay, with
isolated pieces,—some standing erect, while others were inclined,
resembling fragments of columns and broken arches. This night
there was a brilliant display of the aurora australis: at eleven o’clock
there was perceived in the northern horizon a luminous arched cloud,

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 347

at 15° of altitude, extending from northwest to northeast; the stars
were partially obscured in the direction of the clouds; the pale flashes
or coruscations vanishing very suddenly, were succeeded by spiral
columns or streamers, converging with great velocity towards the
zenith ; brilliant flashes would again issue forth from the remote parts
of the cloud, succeeded in quick succession by perpendicular rays
emanating from the cloud, having the shape of a rounded column or
basaltic-shaped cylinder, which in contrast with the dark cloud showed
in broad relief. As the cloud seemed to rise, the scene became a most
interesting one, from the varied and oft-changing coruscations: finally
the are assumed a contracted and elliptical form, vivid streamers
bursting forth as if from a corona, converging all towards the zenith,
until they were lost in the coming day. The magnetic needle did not
show any disturbance. The barometer stood stationary during its
continuance. ‘The sympiesometer indicated a slight fall. At the time
there was no wind; the stars were brilliant, and all visible.

6th. During this day they had light winds; pursued their course to
the westward; wind from the southward. In the afternoon they had
light flurries of snow, and at times hail; the sea perfectly smooth, and
few icebergs in sight. Longitude 125° 32’ E., latitude 63° 34’ 8.

During the 7th, the winds variable; at eight tacked to the southward,
in order to close in with the barrier; the wind again hauling, tacked ;
the number of icebergs increasing; all those seen for the few days
past have appeared variously shaped, much worn and fractured,
some evidently overturned, and immense arches or caves washed in
them ; they were totally distinct from those seen to-day.

8th. A brisk breeze from the southward, which carried them on
rapidly to the westward. At meridian, discovered compact fields of
ice, with many stupendous ice-islands enclosed within it; the ice
appeared more broken than any hitherto seen, with many fragments
of icebergs resembling spires and broken columns. Altered their
course to clear the barrier, and by two o’clock they had extricated
themselves. Penguins, whales, brown pigeons, and the black alba-
tross, were seen near the barrier. In the afternoon the snow fell in
beautiful shining spicule, resembling stars, usually of six, but some-
times of twelve points: they varied from one-eighth to one-sixteenth of
an inch in diameter.

The barrier was occasionally seen, and the ice-islands began again
to assume a tabular form; towards the close of the day, very many
whales, penguins, &c., seen. Longitude 116° E., latitude 64° 01'S.

On the 9th, fresh breezes from the southeast; at 10 a. m. made the
barrier again, the weather being favourable; at 4 p. m. standing along

348 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

the barrier, through drift-ice, with countless icebergs in sight; good
observations were obtained, placing them in longitude 112° 41’ E., and
Jatitude 64° 55’ S. At 10 p. m., some few appearances of the aurora
australis in the northern sky, light coruscations streaming upwards,
but quite faint, and only for a very short period; many stars and
several constellations were traced without difficulty. The sea was
smooth; lowered a boat to try the current, but found none. The dip
was 83° 30’.

On the morning of the 10th the weather cleared off, and gave’ them
an opportunity of ventilating the vessel ; closed in with the field-ice for
the purpose of obtaining a supply of water, and the boats were
despatched to take in ice; the longitude was found to be 110° 34’ E.,
latitude 65° 12’ S.; the field-ice here was found to be interspersed with
many large ice-islands and bergs. At five o’clock the boats returned
with ice. The current was found to be setting north-northeast, five
fathoms an hour; the weather continued clear and healthful; made the
field-ice ahead and on the lee bow; shortly after, cleared it. The twilight
in the southern horizon presented a beautiful appearance, a bright
salmon colour radiating from the sun, throwing its tints over the whole
sky, tinging the few cirro-stratus clouds that were in the northern
quarter, and giving a soft colour to the immense ice-islands that were
slumbering along the barrier, and aiding to lend to the scene its pecu-
liar character of silence, solitude, and desolation.

The weather was clear and pleasant on the 11th, with a light wind
from the southeast; many penguins and whales were seen. ‘The ice-
bergs were numerous, and some of great beauty, with almost regularly
turned arches, and of the most beautiful aqua-marine tints. Longitude
was 106° 10’ E., latitude 65° 28’ S.

During the morning of the 12th, running along high broken fields of
ice, with a light breeze from the southward; weather overcast; dis-
covered a large piece of ice of a dark brown colour floating by, resem-
bling a piece of dead coral; lay-to, and sent a boat to bring it along-
side; obtained from it several pieces of granite and red clay, which
were frozen in; the ice was extremely hard and compact, composed
of alternate layers of ice and snow; the strata of snow was filled with
sand. The icebergs near at the time presented signs of having been
detached from land, being discoloured by sand and mud. A number
of white procellaria were obtained. The ice-islands again appeared in
great numbers. At 3 pv. m. hauled up, steering westerly into a very
deep inlet or gulf, formed by extensive fields of ice. Believing from the
indications of the morning that land could not be far off, in approaching
the head of this inlet, several icebergs had the appearance of being in

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 349

contact with the land, having assumed a dark colour from the clay and
sand blown upon them; the whole group around seemed as if in the
vicinage of land; sounded with two hundred fathoms: no bottom ; also
tried the current, but found none. Towards night, it becoming thick
with snow, they continued under snug sail, intending to examime more
closely the barrier and inlets in the morning.

13th. At 3 a.m. they again made sail to the westward, with wind
from the east; at six o’clock they had snow-squalls, rendering it
unsafe to proceed, and impossible to make any discovery. A few
hours afterwards the weather cleared a little; made sail again to the
northwest. At meridian overcast, with a stiff southeast breeze; at
i5 30™, approached to within pistol-shot of the barrier, observing much
of the dark dirty ice interspersed with the field-ice; kept along it very
closely, tracing the barrier northerly; observed a large black object
on the ice; shortened sail, and despatched a boat: it proved to be a
large mass of black, red, and mixed-coloured earth, resting upon a
‘base of snow and ice, situated some fifty yards back from the margin
of the field-ice, and was found to be red earth, mixed with granite and
sandstone. Penguins were also procured alive. At 3p. m. they again
followed the trend of the ice in a northwesterly direction ; a vast field,
of uninterrupted extent, seemed moving along to the westward, the
large icebergs containing dark and discoloured masses, with frequent
strata of the same description. They were still at a loss to account
for these frequent signs of land; discoloured pieces of ice seemed
mingled with the general mass; they were often seen along its margin,
and appeared as though the icebergs had been turned over, presenting
collections as if from the bottom. Great numbers of sperm whales
were seen thisday. At8 p.m. they passed out northwardly with a
light breeze and smooth sea, through an extensive chain of icebergs,
which seemed grouped off the western point of the barrier: upwards
of one hundred of them were counted, several of which were very
much discoloured. The sunset was brilliant, bright crimson tints
illuminating the icebergs, and producing a beautiful effect.

On the 14th, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, having passed a
few degrees beyond his instructions, that is, having reached longitude
100° E., and latitude 64° 15’ S., now commenced his return, in order
‘o examine those places in the barrier which he had been prevented
from doing on his way west.

15th. Continued their course to the eastward. Lieutenant-Comman-
dant Ringgold frequently refers to the happy and cheerful condition
of his crew, and their freedom from all disease.

On the 16th and 17th, they were employed in getting to the east-
25

350 A N-E-ARC T1C GR USE,

ward, passing many worn and shattered bergs. On the evening of
the latter day, they had another exhibition of the aurora australis,
extending from north-northwest to east; it was of a light straw-colour,
but very indistinct; the luminous bank was at an elevation of 30°.
The light in the northwest was most distinct, radiating from a nucleus
above the horizon towards the zenith, where it formed a beautiful halo.
Tt was not of long duration. Many ice-islands and bergs in sight:
upwards of two hundred; nearly all of a tabular form,—the sides of
many of them beautifully excavated by the waves, presenting innume-
rable Gothic arches, extending often to a considerable distance into
the body of the ice. ;

Their position on the 18th was in longitude 114° 17’ E., latitude
62° 37'S. Flocks of black-birds were very numerous, but not near
enough to be taken.

On the 19th and 20th, proceeding to the eastward. On the 20th,
they had but few ice-islands in sight, although they were seventy miles
further south than on the 18th, when the te gest number ever seen by
them at one time was visible; having ghar the longitude of 120°
E., they again steered south, to make the barrier. The current was
tried, but none found.

The 21st proved stormy, with strong breezes from the southeast,
and much snow and rain, which covered the brig with ice. Field-ice
was seen ahead, when they again stood to the eastward, longitude ©
being 121° 30’ E., latitude 65° 15’ 8. On this night they experienced
a heavy gale, during which the barometer fell to 27:50 in., where it
remained during part of the 22d. The squalls were very severe,
accompanied with snow, sleet, hail, and heavy seas; they had now
reached longitude 122° E.,.and latitude 64° 09’ S. |

February 22d, being Washington’s birthday, the colours were hoisted,
and the crew received an extra allowance. Lieutenant-Commandant
Ringgold took this occasion to express to them his satisfaction for the
manner in which they had performed their duties during the present
cruise, and that their conduct would be duly ‘represented to the
Commander of the Expedition, and the government.

On the 23d the weather was again thick, with snow and mist.

On the 24th they had reached longitude 126° E., and latitude 64°
29’ 8. On this day they again sighted the barrier; when, having
completed what he deemed a full execution of his instructions, Lieu-
tenant-Commandant Ringgold determined to put the brig’ s head north,
—which was accordingly done. :

Strong winds and gales continued for the next three days. On the
27th they again found themselves in east variation, in longitude 188°

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 351

E., latitude 60° 08'S. The white albatross had now again become
common.

On the 29th, they had a beautiful display of the aurora australis;
the whole southern hemisphere was covered with arches of a beautiful
straw-colour, from which streamers radiated, both upwards and down-
wards, of almost a lustrous white; numbers of concentric arches would
occasionally show themselves, of a width of a few feet, uniting to form
a complete canopy for a moment, and then vanish. The arches
extended from east-southeast to west-northwest; the display continued
for over two hours; the stars were seen above them. Previous to, and
during its continuance, the thermometer indicated a change of four
degrees, and the wind shifted to the southward.

On the 1st of March, in latitude 55° S8., and longitude 140° E., they
passed the last ice-island.

On the 2d, great numbers of pyrosoma of large size were passed.

On the 4th, some faint appearances of the aurora australis were
seen.

On the 5th, the Lord Auckland Isles were descried. Mr. Totten,
who was officer of the deck, was accidentally knocked overboard by
the trysail-boom, but was fortunately rescued without injury. Immense
numbers of albatrosses were about. The aurora was again seen in
the southern hemisphere.

mM

AUCKLAND ISLES,

On the 7th they anchored in the harbour of Sarah’s Bosom, in twelve
fathoms water. During their brief stay here, all were actively em-
ployed wooding and watering, for which this harbour affords a fine
opportunity. Assistant-Surgeon Holmes made several excursions on
the largest island, of which he gives the following account:

“] found it very thickly covered with trees, in its less elevated parts:
as few of them were of any size, I found no small difficulty in pene-
trating and making my way through them; in many places it was
absolutely impossible. It was only after a long and fatiguing walk,
that I succeeded in reaching the summit of that part of the island, neaz
which the brig was anchored, where I found the trees less numerous

352 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

A thick growth of underwood and dwarf bushes, intermixed with ferns
concealed the surface, rendering it difficult to walk. Even on the
places apparently most level, the ground was very unequal, and a single
step would sometimes send me nearly up to the neck into a hollow
filled with large fern fronds. On the highest parts, the small level spots
were covered only with moss, and a description of tall grass, and in
places also a kind of grain grew abundantly. The ground was dry
every where, all the water being found in the streams, which were
numerous and pure. Near the summit, the ground was perforated in
all directions, probably by birds, who rear their young in these holes.
Many of the birds, principally procellaria, were sitting on the ground:
they made no effort to escape, but suffered themselves to be taken
without any attempt at resistance.

“The forest was full of small birds, of three or four different species,
which were perfectly fearless; one little fellow alighted on my cap as
| was sitting under a tree, and sang long and melodiously; another
and still smaller species, of a black colour spotted with yellow, was
numerous, and sang very sweetly; its notes were varied, but approxi-
mated more nearly to the song of our blackbird; occasionally a note
or two resembled the larks. Hawks too were numerous, and might be
seen on almost all the dead trees, in pairs. Along the sea-coast were
to be seen the marks of their ravages upon the smaller birds. ‘The
sea-birds were very numerous on the opposite side of the island, sitting
upon the cliffs or hovering over the islet.”

On the western side of the Auckland Island, the under-brush and
young trees are exceedingly thick. Dr. Holmes remarks, that it was
impossible to penetrate; that he was occupied fully an hour in making
his way for a hundred yards, where to all appearance a human step
had never before trodden. ‘There was not a vestige of a track; old
trees were strewn about irregularly, sometimes kept erect by the
pressure on all sides. Some trees were seen upwards of seventy feet
in height, although the generality were only from fifteen to twenty ;
every part of the island was densely covered with vegetation ; the soil,
from the decomposition of vegetable matter, had acquired considerable
richness; specimens of all the plants were collected. ‘The botany of’
nese islands is nearly allied to that of New Zealand, and will be found
treated of in the Botanical Report, to which I would refer. Some
species resembling the tropical plants were found here, viz., the coffea-
ceous plants.

These islands have in many places the appearance of having been
raised directly from the sea; the clifis consisted of basalt, and were
generally from fifty to ninety feet perpendicular.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 353

The Auckland Islands are the resort of whalers for the purpose of
refitting and awaiting the whaling season, which occurs here in the
months of April and May. Near the watering place a commodious
hut has been erected by a French whaler. Near by was another in
ruins, and close to it the grave of a French sailor, whose name was
inscribed on a wooden cross erected over it. Some attempts at form-
ing a garden were observed at one of the points of Sarah’s Bosom, and
turnips, cabbage, and potatoes, were growing finely, which, if left un-
disturbed, will soon cover this portion of the island; to these a few
onions were added. Besides the birds, the only living creature was a
small mouse, one of which Dr. Holmes caught: it made no attempt to
get out of his- way, and seemed to have no fear when taken; being
consigned to a pocket, he soon contrived to escape. Many of the
smaller islands of this group were visited; they closely resemble
the larger one. Penguins were numerous and of a variety of colours.

These isles have a picturesque, wild, steep, and basaltic appearance :
the highest peak was estimated to be eight hundred feet; the smaller
has a less elevation: the general aspect of the land resembles the
region around Cape Horn. The Harbour of Sarah’s Bosom is not the
most secure; that of Lawrie’s is protected from all winds, and has a
large and fine streamlet of water at its head. The rocks are covered
with limpets, and small fish of many varieties are caught in quantities
among the kelp. The crew enjoyed themselves on chowders and fries.
No geese were seen, and the only game observed were a few gray
ducks, snipes, cormorants, and the common shag. The land birds are
excellent eating, especially the hawks; and on the whole, it is a very
desirable place at which to refit.

On the 9th of March they had finished, and were prepared for sea,
but the weather was threatening and caused them to delay. The
magnetic dip was found to be 78° 47’ 30” S.

A whaler, under Portuguese colours, butcommanded by an English-
man, arrived, and anchored in Lawrie’s Cove, to await the coming of
the whales! The night proved stormy; the wind at 10" 30™ from the
northeast, blowing very heavy in puffs. ‘Towards noon it moderated,
and at 2 p. m. they got under way, with a light breeze from the north-
west, and stood to sea.

The latitude of Sarah’s Bosom is 50° 38’ 8.; the longitude 165°
28’ FE.

On the 12th no current was found; latitude 49° 27' S., longitude
168° 13’ E. ‘The weather experienced from this port to New Zealand
was very similar to that in passing from Cape Horn to Valparaiso:

northerly winds with mist and fog prevailing, with a heavy sea. On
VOL. IL 2E2 A5

304 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

the 17th they fell in with the whale-ship Mary and Martha, of Ply-
mouth, Coffin, master, who informed them that there were at least
one hundred whale-ships cruising in the neighbouring seas; of these,
several were seen. This will give some idea of the number of vessels
employed, and how great a capital is engaged in this business.

On the 18th they had a gale from north-northwest, which lasted
through the day, moderating at sunset. They were in latitude 43° 02’
S., longitude by chronometer, 175° 24’ EK. The barometer sank to
29°30 in. A current was experienced setting northwest, in the direction
of Cook’s Straits.

On the 20th, in latitude 41° 00’ S., longitude 177° E., the current
was found setting northeast-by-north, half a mile per hour. On the
22d and 23d they experienced a heavy gale from the southeast, when
they were in longitude 179° 35’ E., and latitude 37° 52’ S.; during the
morning of the latter day the wind hauled to the south-southwest; the
barometer, at 3 a. m., stood at 29:10 in.; the weather cleared, with the
wind at southwest.

On the 26th, they reached and anchored in the river Kawa-Kawa,
in the Bay of Islands, off the American consul’s, about three miles
above its mouth. Many vessels were passed lying at anchor off the
town of Kororarika. Here they found the tender Flying-Fish; all
well. '

The cruise of the latter will now be taken up from the Ist of
January, on which day she parted company with the Vincennes} in
consequence of having carried away a gaff, and being obliged to
shorten sail, in doing which their jib-stay got adrift, and carried away
the squaresail-yard before it could be secured. The vessel was in the
mean time exposed to a heavy sea beating over her, and at midnight
they were compelled to heave-to. They then steered for the first
rendezvous, Macquarie Island, where they arrived on the 10th, in the
afternoon, and saw the Peacock, but it becoming thick, they were not
seen by that ship.

On the 11th, Acting-Master Sinclair landed for the purpose of
placing a signal on the island, agreeably to instructions. ‘The landing
was found difficult and dangerous, and their description of the island
agrees with that heretofore given of it from the notes of Mr. Eld, as
being dreary and inhospitable. Large numbers of penguins, and small
green and yellow paroquets were seen. Near where they landed, they
saw about twenty huge sea-elephants basking on the rocks, which did
not seem to heed them; when disturbed, they would only throw their
carcasses over, open their mouths, utter a loud growl, and go to sleep
again; no measurement was taken of them, and one which was killed

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 355

could not be taken in the boat. The soil was soft and spongy, yielding
to the pressure of the feet. The staff and signal being planted, they’
returned on board, and now passed the surf without difficulty.

On the 12th, they put away for the next rendezvous, Emerald Isle.
They reached its position on the 14th, but nothing was seen of it; the
weather was thick.

On the 16th, they kept off to the southward, with the wind from
the southwest, accompanied with sleet and snow. In latitude 61° S.,
longitude 164° E., they saw the first ice. The next day, the 19th of
January, the water was very much discoloured ; got a cast of the lead
in ninety fathoms: no bottom; passed a number of icebergs that were
all flat on the top, with perpendicular sides.

On the 21st they made the icy barrier, in longitude 159° 36’ E., and
latitude 65° 20'S. From the number of icebergs and the frequency
of snow-squalls, they found great danger in running through them,
although the water was quite smooth.

On the 22d the weather proved pleasant, and they followed the
trend of the ice. The ice-islands still showed flat tops and perpendi-
cular sides, and there were a number of birds, seals, and whales
around them; they were at noon in longitude 158° 27' E. On this
day they were close by an iceberg, from the main body of which a
large mass fell with a noise like thunder; the snow flying into the air
resembled smoke, and the swell produced by the immersion of the
fragment caused the schooner to roll water in on her deck. A number
of large penguins were in sight, differing from any they had heretofore
seen.

On the 23d the weather was pleasant, and they had light winds from
the southward and westward. Longitude 157° 49’ E., latitude 65° 58’
S. They continued coasting along the ice in search of an opening.
At 8 p. m. they discovered several dark spots, which had the appear-
ance of rocks, and on approaching the margin of the ice, they could
make them out to be such with their glasses, but they were situated
too far within the field-ice for a boat to get near them. This day
being fine, an opportunity was afforded of drying the deck and clothes,
and searing the seams with a hot iron. The vessel had been very
wet, and her decks leaked badly, notwithstanding the thorough calking
and repairs she had received at Sydney: the crew were almost con-
stantly wet, below as well as above deck.

On the 24th they were obliged to steer again to the northward, in
consequence of making the barrier ahead. Sea-lions were seen on the
ice. ‘They continued to follow the barrier, which trended north-north-
east; the compasses were very sluggish. On the 26th and 27th the

396 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

weather became bad, with the wind to the northward and westward.
‘accompanied by a heavy fall of snow: in the evening of the latter day,
the wind hauled to the southward and westward, and brought clear
weather. The 28th passed with clear weather, and several seals were
about them.

The 29th was thick and snowy, with a northeast wind; passed
through quantities of drift-ice, and by 2% 30", it had become so thick
as to render a continuance of their course perilous; at 7 p. mu. they
again made the solid barrier, when it was blowing a stiff gale; at 9
30™ discovered the ice ahead, and on both beams; wore round to the
northward and eastward, to retrace their steps; it was not long before
they discovered a chain of ice-islands ahead, apparently connected by
solid ice; about midnight a passage was discovered between two ice-
bergs, through which they passed. It was now blowing a heavy gale,
and having gained the open sea, they attempted to reef the foresail, but
were unequal to the task (four of the men being on the sick-list), and
were compelled to lay-to under the whole sail, which caused the vessel
to labour very much, as well as to leak a great deal, and endangered
her safety by making her fly into the wind, and get a sternboard in a
high sea.

On the 30th, in the morning, the gale abated, and the weather
became more pleasant than they had experienced for a number of
days. ‘They had reached the longitude of 150° 16’ E., latitude 65° 15°
S. On this day they again passed into blue water.

31st January was fuel with snow ; a north wind and heavy sea.

Ist of February, they were running among ice, until they sighted the
barrier, when they again hauled to the northward ; a moderate gale
blowing, with thick weather and a heavy sea, they were obliged to
heave-to.

On the 2d and 3d, they were coasting the ice. In the afternoon of
the 8d they again had bad weather, which made it necessary to bring
to; surrounded by bergs and drift-ice; the latter, in case of striking,
would have seriously injured the tender. The icebergs seen on these
days, had the appearance of recent formation; the tops flat, the sides
perpendicular, and not worn by the action of the sea.

On the 4th, the gale continued, and the sea had risen to an extra-
ordinary height; the weather was so thick that an iceberg could not
be seen further than twice the length of the vessel. The tender was
under too much sail, which caused her to labour dreadfully, in conse-
quence of which she leaked in such a manner as to make it necessary
to keep the pumps going almost continually. When they were stopped
for a short time to rest the men, the water increased so as to reach the

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 357
“he

cabin-floor : the water came through the seams forward in such quan-
tities as to wet every bed and article of clothing on the berth-deck.
This was a great addition to the labour and discomfort of the crew,
now reduced by sickness to four men, and the strength of these much
impaired by previous sickness, excessive labour, and almost constant
exposure. To relieve their situation as much as possible, Lieutenant
Pinkney ordered them to make use of the cabin in common with the
officers. To ease the pitching of the vessel, a quantity of coal was
shifted aft; but although this was a partial relief, yet as she had too
much sail on her, which they had been unable to reduce at the com-
mencement of the gale, it was not sufficient to make her easy.

On the 5th, the gale began to abate, when the crew, through one of
their number, presented a communication to Lieutenant Pinkney, of
which the following is a copy.

(coPY.)

We, the undersigned, the crew of the Schooner Flying-Fish, wish to
let you know that we are in a most deplorable condition: the bed-
clothes are all wet; we have no place to lie down in; we have not had
a dry stitch of clothes for seven days; four of our number are very
sick; and we, the few remaining number, can hold out no longer; we
hope you will take it into consideration, and relieve us from what must
terminate in our death.

(Signed) A. Murray. Tuomas Daruine.
Joun Anperson. James Dantets.
~F. Beate. JosEPH.

James Dartinc. Joun H. Weaver.
To LizuTENANT PINKNEY,

U.S. Schooner Flying-Fish.

On the receipt of this appeal, Lieutenant Pinkney addressed an order
to the officers, a copy of which follows.

U.S. Schooner Flying-Fish,

Lat. 66° S., long. 143° &., Feb. 5th, 1840.
GENTLEMEN,—

You will furnish me with your opinion, and the reasons which
induced that opinion, of the propriety of any longer endeavouring to
accomplish that part of the accompanying order, which refers to pene-
trating to the south.

I am, respectfully, &c.,
R. EF. Pingney,

To Actine Master Grorce TT. Sincuair. Lieutenant-Commandant.
Passep Mipsuipman WiLuiaAm May.
Passep Mipsuipman Greorce W. Harrison.

308 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.
o

COPY OF REPLY.
U.S. Schooner Flying-Fish,
Lat. 66° S., long. 143° E., Feb. 5th, 1840.
Sir,—

Agreeably to your order of this date, we, the undersigned officers,
have to express our most thorough conviction, that the condition of
this vessel’s crew, and the vessel, loudly demand an immediate return
to milder latitudes.

The causes of this opinion are these: that the crew of this vessel,
consisting of fifteen persons (four officers and eleven men), even if
well, are entirely inadequate to her safe management; but five are
now confined to sick beds (one a servant), one of them is in a very
critical state of health, and three others dragging out upon duty,
complaining, and under medical treatment. Out of four, nominally
performing duty, one of them, the cook, is totally unfit to a turn at
the helm, and another cannot be trusted without the closest watching ;
indeed, so deficient in force are we, that in the gale of yesterday and
the day before, and on a previous occasion, when it became extremely
necessary to reef the foresail, the men were so deficient in physical
strength as to make it impossible to accomplish it.

The crew’s apartment is in the most deplorable state, leaking like a
sieve, all their beds being wet, their clothes on them being so, even to
their under flannels, for one week, and without a dry change on hand,
and no prospect of having one; so miserable is their situation, that at
length you have been compelled to allot them the cabin, in common
with us, for the purpose of cooking, eating, and sleeping.

Furthermore, sir, in the gale now abating we find that nearly
constant application to the pump is barely sufficient to keep the water
from flooding the cabin-floor, evidently having started a leak ; notwith-
standing this, the condition of the crew is more imperative, much more
so in this, our recommendation, for a return to the northward ; in fact,
we would cheerfully continue to the southward, if we had a proper crew.

Lastly, understanding that the crew, through one of their body,
have waited upon you, and, by written application, also stated their
inability to live through these hardships much longer, and begging
your return.

We are respectfully, your obedient servants,

(Signed) Grorce T. Srvcrarr,
Acting Master.
Witttam May,
Grorce W. Harrison,
Passed Midshipmen.
Lieut. Com. R, F. Pinkney,
Commanding U. 8. Schooner Flying-Fish.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE, 359

Lieutenant Pinkney, in accordance with this opinion, and his own
conviction of the necessity of an immediate return to milder latitudes,
as the only means of restoring the sick, and preserving those on duty,
who were then incapable of managing the vessel without the assistance
of the officers, deemed it his duty fo steer for the north, which he
accordingly did.

The 6th and 7th continued thick, with occasional squalls. On the
Sth, the weather again broke up, when they had several hours of sun-
shine, which proved of great benefit to the sick, who were enabled
to come again on deck, and enjoy the milder weather, affording so
great a contrast to that of the Antarctic circle. They had reach-
ed the longitude of 139° 45’ E., latitude 61°S. At 11 py. m. the
aurora was seen; it was first visible in the southeast quarter, in
spots resembling pale moonlight, extending to the zenith, from whence
it diverged in rays, some of which reached the horizon, but the greatest
number terminated at an altitude of twenty-five or thirty degrees. On
the 9th, the aurora was also seen in the west, in vertical rays of pale
yellow light, commencing about five degrees above the horizon, and
extending to an altitude of thirty degrees. After a short time it dis-
appeared, and was again seen in the zenith, radiating in lines to the
northeast and west, reaching to within ten degrees of the horizon.
The wind was from the southward. Temperature 34°. The follow-
ing five days they had thick weather, and nothing occurred until the
evening of the 14th, when they again had a display of the aurora; the
coruscations were frequent and brilliant, but did not exhibit any diffe-
rent form, until after midnight, when it appeared in arches, reaching
nearly to the horizon, at from 45° to 78° of altitude, and composed of
short perpendicular lines, blending at one moment into a sheet of misty
light, and then breaking out into brighter lines, some of which were
broad. It then again shifted to the zenith, with radiations extending
in every direction, in straight and wavy lines. The changes were
incessant, but not shooting. |

On the morning of the 15th, they again had a display of the aurora.
It first appeared in the southern heavens, at an altitude of 45°, flashing
to the zenith, where it disappeared. After midnight it was again
visible in the southern quarter, at about 30° of altitude. It finally —
centered in a bright spot, which changed into a crescent, with the
rounded side to the northward. From this, feathery-edged rays of
pale orange-colour branched off in every direction, over which the
prismatic colours seemed to flit in rapid succession. The rays would
sometimes fold into one another like a fan, and reach the horizon in
one direction, while in another they were drawn up to the zenith, again

360 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

to burst forth in repetitions, until lost in daylight. On the 19th, the
aurora again appeared in an arch of 15° altitude.

They passed the last icebergs in latitude 55° 30’ S., longitude 145°
30’ E.

On the 22d they spoke a French whaler from Hobart Town, who
expressed much surprise at finding so small a vessel in such high
latitudes. ‘The captain sent a boat on board, and invited them to
“soup” with him.

On the 23d they made the southern island of New Zealand. On
the Ist of March they experienced a most violent gale. The wind,
about noon on the 29th of February, hauled to the southward and
eastward, and by midnight it blew a gale, hauling to the eastward,
until about 8 p. m., when its violence moderated. Their latitude was
40° S., longitude 178° 30’ E. For several days previous to this, a
noise was heard about the heel of the main-mast; an examination
was had, and the conclusion arrived at that it worked in the step, the
wedges in the partners having been driven without obviating it. On
the 9th of March they arrived at the Bay of Islands, where they found
the gentlemen who had gone there to pursue their researches in natural
history waiting our arrival.

AURORA AUSTRALIS

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 361

The Vincennes was left on the 21st of February on her way north
On the night of the 22d, we had a beautiful and novel appearance
of the aurora australis. The sketch of it which I made will in some
measure convey an idea of it.

Black clouds were passing rapidly over the sky; an orange glow of
light seemed to cover the heavens, emanating from a point, over which
flitted rays of the prismatic colours, directed towards the horizon,
lighting up both edges of the clouds, and throwing them into bold relief.
The rays seemed to dart simultaneously towards the horizon, on
reaching which they would seem to be gathered, as if by magic, to-
wards the centre, and slowly vanish, to reappear again and fold up.

Strong gales from the west-northwest with snow-squalls continued
until the 27th, with thick misty weather. Numerous ice-islands were
passed during this interval. The last iceberg seen, was in the latitude
of 53° S8., and longitude 120° 25’ E., the temperature of the water
was 46°.

On the 28th, we found our variation 1° easterly. in the longitude
of 131° 50’ E.., latitude 50° 30’ S.; and in attempting to get a deep-
sea sounding of eight hundred and fifty fathoms, we lost our Six’s
thermometer by the wire parting. The sea was a deep blue; the
temperature 45°. We found a current setting west-northwest three-
fourths of a knot per hour. The white object was seen at the depth
of fifteen fathoms.

On the lst of March we had reached the latitude of the Royal
Company’s Isles, and I continued to run in nearly the same parallel
for eight degrees of longitude, without seeing any signs of the sup-
posed land. Having sailed far to the eastward of their supposed
position, I again hauled to the northward to proceed to Hobart
Town, Van Diemen’s Land, to fill up our water. We now saw a
sail, the first during sixty days, which made us feel as if we were
returning to a habitable part of the globe. This night we had a
brilliant display of the aurora australis, resembling that seen on the
9th of February, with this difference, that it was seen to the south-
ward, extending from east-southeast to west-southwest.

On the 5th of March the wind headed us off our course to Hobart
Town; I then determined to proceed direct to Sydney, and thus be
enabled to communicate as speedily as possible with the United States.
The consideration of getting intelligence respecting the other vessels,
also led to this determination. I felt, in truth, forebodings that all was
not well, from not having met any of the vessels at the appointed
rendezvous, along the icy barrier; and I was anxious for their safety,
after the severe gale of the 28th of January.

Vox. IL. 2F 46

362 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

Having reached a lower latitude, the weather had now become
pleasant, and we could dispense with our winter clothing,—a relief
which the whole of the crew seemed to enjoy. It was the reverse
with me; I had a feeling of exhaustion and lassitude that I could not
account for, and the least exertion caused me much fatigue.

On the 9th, we reached the latitude of Cape Howe, and were seventy
miles to the eastward of it. We there experienced a rise in the tem-
perature of the water: six degrees in less than an hour.

On the 10th, when off Cape Jervis, and about forty miles to the
eastward of it, we again changed the temperature from 68° to 73°, as
we steered in for the land to the northward, but on hauling to the
eastward it again fell to 68°. A strong southerly current has been
long known to exist along this coast; and I feel well satisfied that the
thermometer is a good guide in making the passage from the south-
ward. The coasting vessels, as I was informed at Sydney, had
frequently made long passages from Van Diemen’s Land, and South
Australia, which I have but little doubt is owing to the prevalence of
this minor Gulf Stream, the position of which the use of the thermo-
meter will clearly indicate. This current will be noticed particularly
in the chapter on currents; its width no doubt varies with the season.

On the 11th of March, at noon, we passed the Heads of Port
Jackson, and took a pilot. We were, as a body, in better condition
than when we left Sydney three months before.

In an hour afterwards we dropped our anchor in Farm Cove, off
Fort Macquarie. Our reception was flattering; scarcely was our
anchor well down before many of our friends came on board to bid
us welcome; and we felt tenfold that kind hospitality which on our
former visit we had first become acquainted with. They appeared to
rejoice in our success as if we had been their countrymen.

During our absence from Sydney, many improvements had taken
place. The storehouses for the deposit of grain on an island in the
harbour were in rapid progress; the new Government-House nearly
completed, and the foundation of an Exchange laid; besides this, many
improvements in town that were then in progress, had been completed ;
and the rapidity with which these works had been accomplished, strongly
reminded me of similar operations at home.

The country was looking quite green and pretty ; indeed, the sail up
the noble harbour was truly beautiful; it wore quite a different face
from its former parched appearance, the rains having been abundant
during our absence.

Observations were obtained for the rates of our chronometers and
the magnetic needles again experimented with.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 363

On overhauling my ship, the fore-topmast was found to be slightly
sprung.

It was with great pleasure I learned the safety of the Peacock; for
that vessel had occupied my thoughts more than the others, on account
of the condition in which she left Sydney. All on board of her were
well, and the vessel was undergoing repairs in Mossman’s Cove, one
of the many which this harbour forms. These coves may be termed
wet-docks, affording as they do every facility for the repair of vessels
of any size. ‘They are more like artificial than natural basins, and are
secure against any wind. ‘There is no port in the world that offers so
many natural advantages as Port Jackson, for a great naval power.
We had many things to relate to each other; among others, the parti-
culars of the accident that befell the Peacock, that has already been
noticed. The return of that vessel to this port now claims our
attention.

On the 28th of January, their sick-list had increased to thirteen,
more in consequence of the fatigue the men had undergone, than from
any disease.

On the 29th, they experienced strong gales from the northwest, which
continued to increase until midnight, after which the weather mode-
rated. The ship during this gale was in latitude 61° 20’ S., and longi-
tude 154° 09’ E. This gale is remarkable, in consequence of its
blowing in a contrary direction to that which the Vincennes experi-
enced on the same day; while the former had it from the northwest,
the latter had it from southeast. Their distance apart was four
hundred and fifty miles, in a northeast direction.

On the 1st of February the weather was stormy until towards
evening, when it moderated and cleared off; with the wind to the
northwest, and gave them a view of the aurora australis lighting up the
southern portion of the horizon. Rays were thrown out in different
directions, some reaching an altitude of 30°, others of 40°, whilst
others again almost spanned the heavens.

On the 2d, they had another display of the aurora, but contrary to
that of the previous day, it was first seen at an altitude of 70°, di-
verging towards the horizon, from east-southeast to the southwest-by-
west, before it disappeared. The point from which the rays diverged
reached the zenith.

On the 4th they made Macquarie Island, and shortly after passing
it, experienced another gale from northwest to southwest, which caused
them much anxiety for their rudder, which thus far had answered
well, although great attention was necessary to prevent strain upon it.

364 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

Strong gales yet continued. On the 5th, they had a faint display of
the aurora.

On the 7th of February, the weather had become less boisterous,
and having reached latitude 49° 8., longitude 155° 23' E., the aurora
australis again appeared. It was first seen in the north, and gradually
spread its coruscations over the whole heavens; the rays and beams
of light radiating from nearly all points of the horizon to the zenith,
where their distinctive outlines were lost in a bright glow of light,
which was encircled by successive flashes, resembling those of heat
lightning on a sultry summer night; these formed a luminous arc in
the southern sky, about 20° in altitude, from the upper part of which,
rays were continually flashing towards the zenith; light showers of
rain finally shut it out from view. On the same night, between one
and three, the aurora burst out from the southwestern horizon, stream-
ing up and concentrating in the zenith, and attended with quick flashes
of every variety of tint. The wind was moderate from the southwest,
and a squall of hail passed at the time. In latitude 47° S. they first
encountered phosphorescence in the water. On the 17th they made the
land of New South Wales, and continued to experience a variety of
weather until the 21st, when they arrived off, and anchored within, the
Heads of Port Jackson.

The next day they proceeded up the harbour, and anchored off
Sydney Cove. The ship was much shattered, but her officers and crew
all in good health. Here they were kindly received, and no time was
lost in proceeding to make the necessary repairs. The collector was
kind enough to give them permission to land every thing that might be
necessary, when and where they pleased. The powder and fire-works
were received into the public magazine, and when called for were
politely sent in a government boat, free of expense. The railway for
merchant-vessels was found too light to trust the Peacock upon it;
Mossman’s Cove, on the north shore, was then resorted to, not only as
a convenient place for making the necessary repairs, but as affording
more security for the crew against the crimps and rum-shops.

The day after my arrival, I visited the Peacock, in order to examine
into her condition, and could not withhold my astonishment that she
had been able, after undergoing such damage, to reach a distant port.
The visible injuries have already been stated, in speaking of her acci-
dent. On their arrival at Sydney, it was found that her stem had been
chafed to within one and a half inches of her wood ends, and much
strained throughout. After a full examination of the circumstances, I
feel it a duty I owe to Captain Hudson, as well as to his officers and

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 365

crew, to state that I am well satisfied, that his coolness, decision, and
seamanship, with the good conduct of his officers and men in the
perilous situation in which they were placed, are worthy of the highest
encomiums. The preservation of the ship and crew, and her subse-
quent navigation to a distant port, reflect the highest credit upon her
commander and upon the service to which he belongs.

Sydney was now much crowded with people, and several balls were
given, to which we had the honour of an invitation. That of the St.
Patrick Society was attended by the chief people in the neighbourhood
of Sydney, including the governor and most of the officers of the
crown. It was given in the new court-house, and was a handsome
and well-conducted entertainment. ‘Two military bands were in
attendance; quadrilles and country dances followed each other in
rapid succession; rooms were provided for cards, refreshments, teas,
lemonade, &c.; and towards the close of the evening, the company
was ushered in to an elegant supper, which was partaken of standing.

I was struck with the beauty and general appearance of the ladies,
though I was informed that many of the belles were absent. The
style of the party was neither English nor American, but something
between the two. I scarcely need remark that we were all much
gratified and pleased. The hospitality and kindness shown us were
of that kind that made us feel truly welcome.

Our last week at Sydney was spent in a round of pleasure, and the
attention we met with being entirely unexpected, was doubly gratify-
ing to us.

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CHAPTER XII.

CONTENTS.

DEPARTURE FROM SYDNEY—PASSAGE TO NEW ZEALAND—ARRIVAL AT THE BAY OF
ISLANDS—MEETING WITH THE SCIENTIFIC CORPS—THEIR PASSAGE FROM SYDNEY—
BAY OF ISLANDS—RIVERS WHICH FALL INTO IT—FACE OF THE COUNTRY—ACTIVE
VOLCANO—HOT SPRING OF TAIAIMI—CRATER OF POERUA—DR. PICKERING'S VISIT TO
HOKIANGA — MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENT AT PAHIA — KORORARIKA — ENGLISH
POLICE MAGISTRATE AND ACTING GOVERNOR—TREATY OF CESSION TO ENGLAND—
CONDUCT OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL—INSTALLATION OF THE LIEUTENANT-GOVER-
NOR—OPINION OF THE CHIEFS IN RELATION TO THE TREATY—ARRIVAL OF ENGLISH
REVENUE OFFICERS— LAND CLAIMS — BURTHENSOME TAXES AND TARIFF — THEIR
EFFECT ON AMERICAN COMMERCE—EXPENSE OF THE NEW GOVERNMENT-—CASE OF
JOHN SAC—HIS LETTER TO MR. WALDRON—FURTHER REMARKS ON THE TREATY OF
CESSION — VIOLENT GALE—ITS EXTENT AND ROTARY CHARACTER—FOREIGN RESI-
DENTS— HIGH PRICE OF LAND—MISSIONS— TABOO — PAS, OR FORTIFIED TOWNS —
DWELLINGS— TOMB— DRESS OF THE NATIVES—THEIR STOREHOUSES—THEIR FOOD—
THEIR ARMS AND ORNAMENTS—KING POMARE—MAUPARAWA—CHARLEY POMARE—
POMARE’S WARS—CEREMONY OF HIS RETURN—HIS MEANNESS—POPULATION OF NEW
ZEALAND—VISIT TO WANGARARA — POLITENESS OF KO-TOWATOWA —WANGARARA
BAY—CHARACTER OF THE NEW ZEALANDERS — THEIR PERSONAL APPEARANCE —
TRADITION IN RELATION TO THEIR ORIGIN— TATTOOED HEADS —CANNIBALISM—
CONDITION AND PROSPECTS OF THE NATIVES—NATIVE DANCES—MUSIC—CHATHAM
ISLAND—CHART OF THE BAY OF ISLANDS—MR. COUTHOUY’S PASSAGE FROM SYDNEY
—HIS ACCOUNT OF MOUNT EGMONT —OF PORT COOPER—WARS OF ROBOLUA—PORT
LEV Y—KORAKIBARURU—PIGEON BAY—CAPE CAMPBELL AND SNOWY PEAKS—CLOUDY
BAY—ROBOLUA—HABITS OF THE NATIVES, AND PREVAILING WINDS AT CLOUDY
BAY—CLIMATE OF NEW ZEALAND — DISEASES —SOIL—CULTIVATION — VEGETABLE
PRODUCTIONS—TIMBER—CANOES—QU ADRUPEDS—BIRDS—COMMERCE.

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TeCeirts

CHAPTER XL

NEW ZEALAND.
1840.

Havine replenished our stores of provisions, we took, with much
regret, a final leave of our friends at Sydney. The Vincennes weighed
anchor, and at 3 p.m. on the 19th March, we discharged our pilot,
and bade adieu to these hospitable shores. ‘The Peacock, not having
completed her repairs, was left at Sydney for a few days, with orders
to follow us to Tongataboo.

On reaching a distance of thirty miles from the coast, we again
found a difference of three degrees in the temperature of the water,
and experienced the effects of a strong current towards the south.
The wind was from the northward and eastward.

On the 23d we spoke the French whale-ship Ville de Bordeaux, in
want of provisions, which we supplied her. She had been out three
years, and had on board four thousand barrels of oil. The crew was
reduced to bread and water, and the vessel was apparently in a bad
condition in other respects.

On the 25th, in latitude 34° 24’ S., longitude 160° 26’ E., we ex-
perienced a current setting to the south at the rate of twenty miles in
twenty-four hours.

On the 26th the current set east-southeast at the rate of twelve
miles per day.

The wind on the 27th hauled to south-southeast by the east, and
became a fine breeze.

On the 29th, we made the North Cape of New Zealand. The
current for the two previous days had been setting north-northwest,
and the temperature of the air varied during our passage from Sydney
from 63° 3’, to 76° 4’; that of the water from 70° to 72°.

VOL. Il. 47 (369)

370 NEW ZEALAND.

At daylight on the 30th, we made Cape Brett, and after groping
our way through the dark, into the Bay of Islands, anchored at 10
p. M. in the Kawa-Kawa river, opposite the residence of Mr. Clendon
the American consul. Here I had the satisfaction to find the Porpoise
and Flying-Fish, and receive the reports of their cruises, which will
be found in Appendix XXX.: they were all well on board. The
former vessel had arrived a few days, and the latter about three
weeks, before us. We were also gratified with the receipt of letters
from the United States. Every exertion was made to shorten the
duration of our stay in New Zealand, and the necessary instruments
were landed without delay.

Here also we met all the scientific gentlemen,—who, as has been
stated, had been left at Sydney when the squadron sailed upon the
Antarctic cruise,—anxiously awaiting our arrival.

They had been forced to remain inactive at Sydney, in consequence
of a change in the destination of the vessel in which they had first
taken their passages, and, by this vexatious delay, had not only been
prevented from pursuing further researches in New South Wales, but
had lost time that might have been advantageously employed in New
Zealand. They finally succeeded in finding an opportunity of reaching
the Bay of Islands, in the British brig Victoria.

After leaving Sydney in this vessel, a sea was shipped, which,
besides doing other mischief, entered at the cabin-windows, and filled
the chronometer-box with salt water; in consequence of which the
master considered it necessary to put back, in order to exchange the
injured time-piece for another. She accordingly anchored again in
Port Jackson.

On the 7th February, they had a beautiful exhibition of the aurora
australis: the coruscations were of a straw-coloured light, reaching
nearly to the zenith in the southern sky, and lasting from seven until
ten o’clock. A noddy lighted on the brig, and remained on board
many days; so tame was it that it even suffered itself to be handled.

On the 16th, when they had performed about half the passage, they
had another exhibition of the aurora, much like the former; after
which they experienced a gale of wind of five days’ duration. On the
21st, they were enabled again to make sail, and, on the 23d, they
made the North Cape. A gale then came on from the eastward, and
they had a narrow escape from shipwreck while running down the
land. On the 24th, they dropped anchor at Kororarika, about three
miles above which place they found the United States Consul, Mr.
Clendon, at Ornotu Point.

From the splendid panorama of Mr. Burford, I had pictured the Bay

NEW ZEALAND. 371

of Islands to myself as a place of surpassing beauty, and I could not
but feel gratified at the idea of paying it a visit: it did not, however,
realize my expectations. It might, with more propriety, be called the
Bay of Inlets. The best idea that can be given of its geographical
features is, to liken it to an open hand with the fingers spread apart.
The land is much indented with bays, or arms of the sea, running up
among hills, which are nearly insulated. The distance between the
two capes (Brett and Point Pocock) is ten miles, and there are several
secondary bays facing this opening. Four rivers flow into them, the
Kawa-Kawa, Kiri-Kiri, Loytangi, and Waicaddie, into which the tide
flows a few miles, after which they become small streamlets, varied
by some waterfalls. There are many minor indentations, which
render it impossible to move any distance without a boat; and it is
often necessary to make a turn of five or six miles around an inlet or
marsh in going to a place, which might be reached in one-tenth of the
distance by water.

The land has the appearance of barren hills without accompanying
valleys, and there is so little level ground that terraces are cut in the
hills to build the cottages on. The whole view is any thing but pictu-
resque, and there is little to meet the eye except bare hills and extensive
sheets of water. Some fine views are, however, to be met with from
the elevated ridges, which afford occasional glimpses of the bay, with
its islets.

Many of our gentlemen were struck with the resemblance of this
land to that of Terra del Fuego. Black islets and rocks, worn into
various shapes, are found, as in that country, at all the points in the
bay through which a boat can pass. These rocks are of a basaltic
character. About the Bay of Islands the rock is compact and argilla-
ceous, showing little or no stratification, and is for the most part
covered with a layer of stiff clay, two or three feet thick, the result of
its decomposition. The hills about the Bay of Islands are generally
from three to five hundred feet high, but some of those at the head
of the bay reach one thousand feet. The district about the Bay of
Islands, and the northern portion of the island, may be styled volcanic ;
for, in addition to rocks of undoubted volcanic origin, all the others
had in a greater or less degree undergone the action of fire. Our
naturalists were informed that the valley of the Thames was of a
different character, although many persons represented the whole
island as volcanic. The ridges in the northern part of the island
were not thought to rise more than two thousand feet. The Rev.
Mr. Williams, missionary at Pahia, has crossed the island from Port
Nicholson to ‘Taaranga, during which journey he passed a district from

are NEW ZEALAND.

which the snow was absent only four months in the year. This region
is in the neighbourhood of the high peak of Mount Egmont, said, in
the Sydney Almanac, but upon what authority is not stated, to be
fourteen thousand feet high. Mr. Williams described the route as
exhibiting volcanic phenomena on a large scale, among which were
quantities of pumice, extending entirely across the island, and an
extensive plain, which had sunk in one place, and disclosed a bed of
that substance, three or four hundred feet in thickness; he likewise
spoke of geysers or jets of boiling water.

The only volcano that was known to be in action, was one ona
small island in the Bay of Plenty, on the east coast.

The embedded minerals in the rock about the bay are quartz, iron,
and iron pyrites.

The hot spring of Taiaimi was visited, but it is described as rather
an emission of gas than of water. It is situated in a small basin, and
forms a lake of three or four acres in extent; near the edge of this
lake, gas is constantly. bubbling up, usually through the water, to
which it gives the appearance of boiling; and gas also issues from the
surrounding land for an extent of several acres. The water was found
to be warm, but did not scald. The neighbouring ground was desti-
tute of vegetation, and appeared as if the surface of the earth had been
artificially removed. Sulphur was abundant, and there was also a
slight incrustation of alum. The water was strongly impregnated with
iron, was much discoloured, and in smell and taste not unlike pyrolig-
neous acid. A quantity of gas was brought away, but the bottle met
with an accident before it could be analyzed. It is not inflammable,
and had it been of a deleterious nature, the fact, (from the quantities
emitted,) could not fail to have been perceived. It had no smell, and
appeared not to differ from atmospheric air. The natives attribute
medical virtues to these waters.

Twelve or fifteen miles to the westward of the Bay of Islands, near
Taiaimi, there are several small extinct craters, rising about five
hundred feet above the surrounding country. One of them is called
Poerua, and is remarkable for the regular figure of its cone when seen
from the eastward. Its western side is cut through by a deep gorge.
The interior is covered with large forest trees and huge blocks of
lava, while the exterior is clad in ferns of low growth. The diameter
of the crater is about half a mile. The plain which surrounds the cone
is composed of an uncommonly rich soil, strewed with lava, which
the natives collect in heaps, in order to obtain space for cultivation.
The lava does not extend far from the cone, and even in the interior,
rock seldom appeared, but where it was seen it proved to be vesicular

NEW ZEALAND. 373

lava. The soil in the neighbourhood of the craters is richer, looser,
and more fit for cultivation than in other places.

Dr. Pickering made a visit to Hokianga, en the western side of the
island, and found that it had more of the forest character than the
eastern. He took the direct road to Waimati, which is fifteen miles
from the Bay of Islands. The river Waitanga was very high, and
one of the chiefs, a large and muscular man, seemed to take particular
interest in getting them across safe and dry; but notwithstanding his
stature and all his care, he could not prevent a slight immersion.*
The Doctor arrived at Waimati at 4 p. m., and was kindly welcomed
by Mr. Davis, the Methodist missionary, to whom he had a letter of '
introduction. It was not without surprise that he found here a water-
mill in operation, which the guides took care to point out with no little
exultation. This, together with the fences, and well cultivated fields,
were the works of the missionaries. He remained with Mr. Davis for
the night, who advised his proceeding direct to Hokianga; but the
guides who had hitherto accompanied him were ignorant of the route,
and another became necessary. .

The next day they passed over the flank of Te-ahooahoo, a volcanic
cone, and the most prominent elevation in this region. A little farther
on, a fine lake was passed, about three miles in length. At nine miles
from Waimati, the wooded region was entered, which extended to
Hokianga. Just before crossing the Hokianga river for the first time,
the Baron de Thierry was met with, who was exceedingly polite. The
road after this became difficult, it being necessary to cross the river
repeatedly, and to follow the stream for some distance. The usual
manner of crossing here is to be carried. The guides, under various
pretexts, prevented them from reaching Hokianga, and they were
compelled to stop four miles short of it, at a chief’s called Tooron, of
rather doubtful character. .

Tooron, with his family, had worship both morning and evening,
as is customary with converted natives, he himself officiating. The
accommodations were none of the best. An open shed, with fire and
blanket, were, however, sufficient to insure a good night’s rest.
Tooron was liberally paid, and so well pleased, that he said he was
determined to carry his guests over the river himself. The road was
any thing but good, being miry, and filled with roots of trees, so that

* On the banks of the Waitanga, the adult inhabitants, to the number of twenty, were
collected in a circle, each armed with a musket, and several had been met on the way, all
armed, ‘The cause of this unusual occurrence was not known. They are very fond of fire-
arms, and on welcoming any one, particularly a chief, all the people of the village assemble

and salute him with a number of rounds, in proportion to his rank.
2G

374 NEW ZEALAND.

their attention was wholly engrossed in seeking a good foothold. The
river was again repeatedly crossed. On the way they met natives
loaded with baskets of peaches, the season for which had arrived.
They freely offered their fruit, for which tobacco was returned.
Before noon, they arrived at Baron de Thierry’s house, where they
were hospitably received by his lady. This house is situated at the
head of tide-water on the Hokianga river, about thirty miles from its
mouth, and boats can ascend as far as this place. ‘There is no village
at the mouth of the river, but many whites reside at different points on
its banks. There is a bar between the headlands at its mouth, which
will admit only of small vessels entering.

Our travellers had intended to return the next day, but one of their
guides, by the name of Pooe, was missing. He had been allowed to
take up his quarters at a short distance, on condition of his being
ready for an early start; on inquiry, however, they were informed
that Pooe had said he did not intend to go back until Monday, which
was two or three days off. They departed without him, but before
reaching Tooron’s, Pooe again joined them, having a piece of pork,
which one of his friends had furnished for the Doctor’s supper.

‘Mr. Davis’s was reached at dark, and the same warm greeting ex-
perienced as before. The next day they reached the Bay of Islands,
at Pahia.

Pahia is the principal missionary establishment of the Episcopal]
Church. It is pleasantly situated on the bay, opposite Kororarika, and
is the residence of all those attached to the mission, and their printing-
presses are there. It is too much exposed to afford a good harbour for
shipping, but as it is the most favourable side for communication with
the interior, the advantages and disadvantages of its position are nearly
balanced.

Kororarika is still the principal settlement, and contains about twenty
houses, scarcely deserving the name, and many shanties, besides tents.
It is chiefly inhabited by the lowest order of vagabonds, mostly run-
away sailors and convicts, and is appropriately named “ Blackguard
Beach.”

The appointment of the police magistrates was one of the first acts
under the new order of things. Mr. Robert Shortland, the first police
magistrate, after the illness of Governor Hobson, styled himself acting
governor, and a more ridiculously pompous functionary could scarcely
be imagined. He paid a visit to the vessel in which some of our
gentlemen had made the passage from Sydney, and demanded the
reason why the mail-bag had not been sent to the new government
postmaster. The master of the vessel replied, that he thought it his

NEW ZEALAND. 375

duty, not having been informed of any change, to deliver them to the
old pestmaster, until he should be directed otherwise. by Governor
Hobson. This pompous functionary, in an improper tone as well as
manner, exclaimed, “I wish you to know that Iam governor now!”
In the words of one of the gentlemen, “ had he been the viceroy of the
Indies, he could not have made his inquisitions in tones of loftier
supremacy.”

Some of our gentlemen arrived at the Bay of Islands in time to
witness the ceremonies of making the treaty with the New Zealand
chiefs. I mentioned, whilst at Sydney, the arrival of H. B. M. frigate
the Druid, with Captain Hobson on board, as consul to New Zealand.
It was well understood that he had the appointment of Lieutenant-
Governor in his pocket, in the event of certain arrangements being
made. His arrival at the Bay of Islands, in H. B. M. ship Herald,
seemed to take the inhabitants, foreigners as well as natives, by
surprise. A few days afterwards, on the 5th February, a meeting was
called at the dwelling of Mr. Busby. The meeting was large and
‘numerously attended by the chiefs. Many arguments and endeavours
were used to induce them to sign a treaty with Great Britain, all of
which were but little understood, even by those who were present, and
had some clue to the object in view. Great excitement prevailed, and
after five hours’ ineffectual persuasion, the meeting broke up, every
chief refusing to sign or favour Captain Hobson’s proposition, which
was in reality nothing more or less than a cession of their lands,
authority, and persons, to Queen Victoria. Among the arguments
made use of, he stated that unless they signed the treaty, he could do
nothing more than act as consul! Nothing having been effected, the
meeting was broken up, and the following Friday appointed for a
second. ‘Tobacco and pipes were given them before they departed,
which restored their good humour, and they went away shouting.

In the mean time, Mr. J. R. Clendon, an Englishman acting as
American consul, the missionaries, and many interested persons
residing there, or about becoming settlers, were made to understand
that their interest would be much promoted if they should forward the
views of the British government. Every exertion was now made by
these parties to remove the scruples of the chiefs, and thus to form a
party strong enough to overreach the rest of the natives, and overcome
their objections. About forty chiefs, principally minor ones,—a very
small representation of the proprietors of the soil,—were induced to
sign the treaty. The influence of Mr. Clendon, arising from his posi-
tion as the representative of the United States, was among the most
efficient means by which the assent, even of this small party, was

376 NEW ZEALAND.

obtained. The natives placed much confidence in him, believing him
to be disinterested. He became a witness to the document, and
informed me, when speaking of the transaction, that it was entirely
through his influence that the treaty was signed.

The Lieutenant-Governor installed himself, confirmed the appoint-
ments of a host of government officers, and the whole machinery, that
had been long prepared, was put in motion. Proclamations were
issued by him, extending his authority over all the English residents
on both islands! and it was considered by the Englishmen as good as
law, though far otherwise by the other foreigners. After this, the
Lieutenant-Governor proceeded to the district of the Thames River,
or Hauaki, in the Herald, for the purpose of procuring a similar
cession of the country; but before this could be consummated, he was
attacked with paralysis, and the Herald was obliged to depart for
Sydney.

So far as the chiefs understand the agreement, they think they
have not alienated any of their rights to the soil, but consider it only
as a personal grant, not transferable. In the interview I had with |
Pomare, I was desirous of knowing the impression it had made upon
him. I found he was not under the impression that he had given up
his authority, or any portion of his land permanently; the latter he
said he could not do, as it belonged to all his tribe. Whenever this
subject was brought up, after answering questions, he invariably spoke
of the figure he would make in the scarlet uniform and epaulettes, that
Queen Victoria was to send him, and “then what a handsome man
he would be !”

Those who are not directly benefited by the change, cannot but view
it as a disastrous circumstance for the natives, which will seal their
doom, and make them the prey of the hosts of adventurers who are
flocking in from all parts, some to be engaged as public officers, and to
fatten on the coming revenues, and others as speculators. During our
stay, a cutter arrived from Sydney, with a number of revenue officers,
magistrates, and other minor dignitaries.

New Zealand continued under the authority of New South Wales
until September, 1840, when it became a separate colony. One of the
first acts of the new government has been, by proclamation, to require
all those who have acquired lands*by purchase from the natives, to
exhibit their vouchers, and to show how much land they had purchased,
and the price paid. At the same time, a committee was appointed to
examine these claims. A few statements made by this committee, will
show how the spirit of speculation has been at work in New Zealand.
Up to October, 1841, they reported that five hundred and ninety-one

NEW ZEALAND. 377

claims had been entered by two hundred and eighty individuals; of
these, there are four hundred and thirty-five claims, amounting to
thirteen millions nine hundred and twenty thousand four hundred and
eighty-two acres. The remaining one hundred and fifty-six claims are
not defined by ordinary landmarks, but are limited by degrees of |ati-
tude and longitude, and computed in square miles instead of acres. The
last description of claims are considered, at a moderate calculation, to
be double the amount of the four hundred and thirty-five claims, so that
in round numbers, the claims already sent in to the commissioners may
be estimated at forty millions of acres. For four hundred claims,
affidavits have been made, and the total value of goods and money paid
by: these claimants is thirty-four thousand and ninety-six pounds.

For one hundred and ninety-five claims, no value is stated; but if
paid for in the same ratio, the amount will be nearly forty thousand
pounds, or about one penny for three acres. The whole surface of the
two islands does not contain more than eighy thousand six hundred
square miles, or fifty millions of acres, and the largest part of them has
not yet been sold by the natives, viz., the Waikati district, Rotorua
and Taupo, in the interior, as well as the whole of the eastern coast of
the northern island; so that it will be difficult to inal a space wherein
to locate these enormous claims.

Laws have likewise been promulgated and imposts levied, harassing
to foreigners, (Americans and others,) and most destructive to their
commercial pursuits, while they offer the most marked protection to
those of British subjects! This would seem not a little unjust to those
who have been resident, and extensively engaged in commerce, before
England took possession, and whilst New Zealand was acknowledged
as an independent state. It has, among other things, been enacted,
that all goods imported and remaining on hand on the Ist of January,
1840, the time of British assumption, shall pay duties; that all lands
are to be considered as belonging to the Queen, even those purchased
of the chiefs prior to the treaty, while the purchasers shall be only
entitled to as many acres as the amount paid to the chiefs will cover
at the rate of five shillings per acre. The government in addition
reserves to itself the right to such portions as it may require. Many
of these purchases were made from the native chiefs, prior to the treaty,
in good faith, and for an equivalent with which they were well satis-
fied, and so expressed themselves.

The destructive effect of these laws on American commerce will be
great, particularly as those engaged in mercantile pursuits find them-
selves called upon to pay heavy duties on their stocks. Americans are
not permitted to hold property, and, in consequence, their whaling

VOL. Il. 2G2 48

378 NEW ZEALAND.

establishments on shore must either be broken up altogether, or trans-
ferred to other places, at a great loss of outlay and capital. Our
whalers are now prevented from resorting to the New Zealand ports,
or fishing on the coast, by the tonnage duty, port charges, &c.; are
denied the privilege of disposing of any thing in barter, and obliged to
pay a duty on American articles of from ten to five hundred per cent.
The expenses of repairs have so much increased, that other places
must be sought for the purpose of making them. The timber and
timber-lands are exclusively claimed as belonging to Her Majesty.
Thus have our citizens been deprived of a fishery yielding about three
hundred thousand dollars annually in oil.

Governor Hobson’s proclamation will be found in Appendix XXXI.

The expenses of this new government were estimated for the year
1841 at £50,922 3s. 4d., sterling, which is about equal to £10 for each
man, woman. and child; for the whole foreign population on all the
islands, is not supposed™to be more than five thousand. The great
precipitancy with which the islands were taken possession of, is said
to have been owing to the fears entertained that the French intended
forming a colony on the southern island in like manner.

After my arrival I gave the men liberty. Among the first who
obtained it was John Sac, a native of New Zealand, and of the neigh-
bourhood of this bay. His native name was Tuatti, and he was a
petty chief. He had been some time absent from his country, and had
sailed in the Expedition from the United States, was an excellent
sailor, a very good fellow, and had been enthusiastic in the praise of
his country and countrymen. According to him, there was nothing
like New Zealand; and under this feeling he hired a canoe to take
him on shore, for which his countryman charged him three dollars,
although half a dollar would have been an exorbitant price. He
landed at Tibbey’s, and being desirous of going to his friends, wished
to engage a canoe to take him about ten miles up one of the rivers,
the Kawa-Kawa, where they resided. For this conveyance he was
asked £2, nearly a month’s pay. Poor John could not submit to this
extortion, and was found sitting on a log, greatly mortified, depressed,
and incensed at such treatment.

After John returned on board, he made a proposition to Mr. Wal-
dron, in a letter, to purchase the island which he called Motugee, with
the territory of Muckatoo, belonging to his father and family, and ex-
pressing his belief that they were all opposed to the encroachments of
the English, and were determined not to part with their land to them.

Although the land about the Bay of Islands is much cut up by
indentations, yet from this circumstance it affords many pretty views,

NEW ZEALAND. 379

which have in some respects an appearance of an advance towards
civilization, that one hardly expects to find within the scope of the
residences of these savages.

One of the many sketches Mr. Agate made, will serve to convey an
idea of their beauty, as well as a distant view of their pas.

At the time of my visit, which was, as has been seen, immediately
after Captain Hobson’s arrival, and the signing of the treaty, or cession,
it was evident that full seven-eighths of the native population had the
same feelings as are found expressed in this note. The circumstances
that have occurred at New Zealand fully prove the necessity of having
American citizens as our consuls abroad. Mr. J. R. Clendon, our
consul at New Zealand, an independent state, and the only represen-
tative of a foreign power, whose interest was at stake, was consulted
by some of the most powerful and influential chiefs, who had refused
to sign the treaty or cession to Great Britain. They came to Mr.
Clendon for advice, how they should act, and he admitted that he had
advised them to sign, telling them it would be for their good. He him-
self signed the treaty as a witness, and did all he could to carry it into
effect ; but, in doing this, he said, he had acted as a private citizen, by
request of the Governor, thus separating his public duties from his
private acts. At the same time he buys large tracts of land, for a few

380 NEW ZEALAND.

trifles, and expects to have his titles confirmed as Consul of the United
States. This is not surprising, and any foreigner would undoubtedly
have pursued the same course; for his personal interest was very
great in having the British authority established, while the influence
he had over the chiefs was too great not to attract the attention of the
Governor, and make it an object to secure his good-will and services.

The prospects of these islanders are, in my opinion, any thing but
pleasing, and the change by no means calculated to insure their hap-
piness, or promote their welfare. It seems to have been brought about
by a rage for speculation, and a desire to take possession of this country,
in order to secure it from the French. The idea that it was necessary
to extend the laws of New South Wales over the island, in order to
protect the natives, and break up the nest of rogues that had taken
refuge there, is far from being true. No such necessity existed, for
there was no difficulty in having any one apprehended by sending
officers for the purpose, or offering a reward.

The New Zealand Land Company have been the secret spring of
this transaction, and under the shelter of certain influential names,
the managers have contrived to blind the English public. It will
scarcely be believed that the New Zealand Land Company had dis-
posed of several thousand shares of land before they purchased an acre.
Some three or four thousand emigrants, who had purchased allotments,
left England on their way to take possession of them, just after the
agent. Upon their arrival they could obtain no satisfactory informa-
tion respecting their allotments, and were left in a destitute condition,
to spend the few earnings they had left, and to endure all the privations
to which people landed in a new country are subject.

Even of those allotments that have been given out, many are not
susceptible of cultivation. It is scarcely to be believed that the bigh
names which stand at the head of this Company could have been
informed of the true state of things; yet it is generally supposed in this
part of the world, that it is by their exertions and influence that the
British government has been induced to take forcible possession of the
territory of an independent state, which New Zealand undoubtedly
was. However this may be, the speculators have succeeded in their
object, and the country will now be retained by England, even if a
military power should be.necessary. Should the New Zealanders
resist, and they are a warlike race, yet acting against European disci-
pline, they will readily be overcome. They are not unlike grown
children, and may be more easily ruled by kindness, and by satisfying
the wants of the chiefs, than by force. The population will soon
disappear before the whites, for the causes that have operated else-

NEW ZEALAND. 38]

where are to be seen in action here, where the savage is already
sinking imperceptibly before the advances of civilization. While
philanthropy, real or pretended, is ransacking the globe to find subjects
for its benevolence, it seems a little surprising that scarcely a voice
has been raised in Parliament against this act of usurpation.

On the 29th of February, 1840, there was a violent gale at the Bay
of Islands, said by the missionaries to have been the severest they had
experienced, with perhaps the exception of one which took place
shortly after their arrival. Many vessels suffered great damage.
The Thorn, of Sag Harbour, which sailed a few days before, bound
home, was obliged to put back, and in consequence of the damage
received, was condemned as unseaworthy, as was also the Tuscan, an
English whaler. The barque Nimrod arrived, having lost her topmast,
and several coasters were missing, supposed to have been lost. Most
of the vessels lying off Kororarika dragged their anchors, but they
suffered less from not being much exposed; the Harriet was driven
ashore at Tipoona, a few miles to the eastward, near Point Pocock.
This vessel parted her cables during the night, and the next morning
was found a complete wreck. The crew barely escaped with their
lives. Besides these disasters on the water, those on the land were
also great: fences were carried away, houses deluged, grounds over-
flowed, wharves injured, and the extensive embankment of the mission-
ary establishment at Pahia nearly demolished. The tide rose six
feet, during the night of Saturday, beyond its usual mark, which caused
most of the damage. ,

This gale was experienced at the Thames on board H. B. M. ship
Herald, one hundred and forty miles to the south; also by the Flying-
Fish, off Cook’s Straits, and by the barque Achilles, to the north. Mr.
Hale was a passenger in the last named vessel, and took barometrical
observations and notes during the continuance of the gale.

From the observations, it appears that the change took place at the
two northern and two southern positions, in opposite directions, proving
that the gale was a rotary one, and that its centre must have passed
between the Bay of Islands and the river Thames. The greatest force
of the gale was between the hours of 1 and 8 a.m., on the Ist of March.
At the Bay of Islands, a calm was observed by Mr. Dana and others,
which lasted fifteen minutes, after which the wind rapidly hauled round
to the westward, and blew with increased violence. On board the
Herald, the barometer fell to 28°75 in., and from the fact of the gale
having been experienced first to the northward and eastward, it is
certain that it came from that quarter, and passed over New Zealand
in a southwest direction: the width of the track was about five hundred

389 NEW ZEALAND.

miles. The particulars of the preceding observations will be found in
the Meteorological Report.

Foreign residents have established themselves in many places, and
on all the inlets or arms of the Bay of Islands their cottages are to be
seen, occupying the points and coves.

On the north, the British resident, Mr. Busby, has built a large and
commodious cottage, and commenced laying out his grounds in town
lots for the future city of Victoria, of which there was a public sale
previous to our arrival. All the lots were, I believe, purchased on
speculation, for after seeing the locality, one must be convinced that it
offers no advantages for more than a village, if indeed for that. More
to the westward, is situated Pahia, the mission establishment. For
commercial purposes, the south or Kororarika shore offers the greatest
advantages, having the deepest water, and being the most sheltered
from the stormy winds.

The extent to which speculation has raised the prices of land in this
neighbourhood is almost incredible. Mayew’s Point, the first above
Kororarika Bay, has on it a few storehouses, which are rented for six
hundred pounds ($3,000) a-year.

Mr. Clendon, the American consul, for about three hundred and
twenty-five acres, of which only fifty are level, has received thirty
thousand pounds from the British government, reserving to himself
the remainder, one hundred acres. He bought the whole for a trifle
a few years ago. The location is a pretty one, on a hill about three
hundred feet high, and is, perhaps, the most commanding spot on these
waters. ‘The neatness of his cottage and of the grounds about it adds
much to its pleasing appearance.

The introduction of a Sydney police at Kororarika has been of
service to that place, for they have dealt in a summary manner with
the vagabonds who formerly frequented it.

A Roman Catholic bishop is established here, who has a chapel,
and it was said, was making many converts; but it was supposed that
the principal inducement to conversion was the liberality with which
he and his associates bestowed gifts and presents upon those who
joined in their prayers and received the cross.

Besides the Episcopal mission, under the Reverend Mr. Williams,
formerly a lieutenant in the British navy, there is a Wesleyan mission
at Hokianga, which is highly spoken of. Many reports have been put
in circulation by the evil-disposed, in relation to these missions; but
as far as my observations went, they seemed exemplary in their duties;
they were also occupied in farming, in which native labourers were
employed. Mr. Williams having a large family growing up, many of

NEW ZEALAND. 383

them obtained farms, and are now in the successful occupation of them.
There is no doubt the hue and cry against the father, that the mis-
sion had obtained all the best land from the natives, arose from this
cause. Some circumstances were remarked, from which it was
evident that the interests of the natives were looked after by the
missionaries, who protected their lands and induced them not to sell to
the emigrants, who would otherwise have found them only too ready
to part with them.

It is true that the situation of these missionaries of the Church of
England is different from that of any we had heretofore seen, and
equally so that they do not appear to have succeeded as well in making
proselytes as those in the other Polynesian islands; but I am persuaded
that they have done and are still endeavouring to do much good.
They are, however, separated, as it were, from their flocks, and con-
sequently, cannot have that control over their behaviour that would be
desirable. Many scenes, therefore, take place at the pas or strong-
holds, that might be prevented if the missionaries mingled more with
their converts.

Mr. Williams was kind enough to have divine service at the house
where our naturalists stayed,—Mr. Tibbey’s. I was not a little
surprised when I heard that Mr. Williams had refused any opportunity
to our philologist to inspect a grammar of the New Zealand language,
- that was then going through the press. I mention the circumstance
as remarkable, from being the only instance of the kind that occurred
to us during the cruise; and it cannot be easily imagined what could
have been the cause of his refusal, for a very short period after our
departure it would be published, and there could have been no fear of
his being forestalled by us.

Among the natives the taboo is yet law, though endeavours are
making to introduce other laws among them. It was told me, on
good authority, that there had been a trial for murder by a jury of
chiefs at or near Hokianga, under the direction of a white man, but
there was great reason to believe that the person did not receive that
impartial justice which a duly organized court would have assured
him. The evidence was said to have been deficient, but the current
belief being against him, he was notwithstanding shot.

The natives, we were told, were not a little surprised at the sum-
mary way in which justice, or rather punishment, is dealt out by the
magistrate of Kororarika.

Their taboo laws are very strict, and carefully observed, even
among those who are considered Christians. The chief, Tomati,
refused to enter the house cf 2 person whom he took Mr. Hale to visit

384 NEW ZEALAND.

for if he had entered, it would have become tabooed ; and the native
law, which does not permit any man to enter a house in which a
chief has resided, even temporarily, would have compelled him to
abandon his dwelling. Women alone are allowed to enter the houses
of chiefs. An instance of this was witnessed at the pa of Pomare,
and another where we attempted to purchase the prow of a canoe.
This prow, which was elaborately carved to represent some non-
descript animal, with a human head, having the tongue protruded,
was accidentally seen in an out-of-the-way storehouse, and was some-
what mutilated ; it had belonged to the late chief Kiwikiwi, and was
‘tabooed in the first degree. Overtures were made to the widow of
Kiwikiwi for its purchase. It was evidently considered very sacred,
for none of the natives would touch it, or even enter the storehouse in
which it was kept. Notwithstanding all its sacredness, it was sold,
after a little chaffering, for six dollars. The first price asked was two
pounds, but the widow could not resist the chance of its sale. After
the bargain was concluded, no native could be found willing to incur
the penalty of the taboo, by carrying it. When the transportation
was accomplished, a new and unexpected difficulty arose: it could
not be carried across the water in a canoe, as it was against taboo to
do it. The threat of making them refund the money, and take back
the thu or nose, so worked upon the covetousness of old Kawiti, the

chief, that he consented to remove it, and also promised to come the -

next day and paint it red, after the native fashion. This he punctually
performed, using a kind of red earth mixed with water. This is
represented in the tail-piece at the end of this chapter.

The taboo is always resorted to, to protect their kurnara-patches,
and the fear of breaking it was strongly shown by the intrusion of Mr.
Tibbey’s goats into the kumara-patch of Pomare, near his pa. No one
could be induced to go in to drive them out, for fear of punishment;
and a message was sent to the chief to allow them to be expelled.
After the permission was given, the natives could not be induced to
enter by any other place but that where the goats had broken through.

The natives, for the most part, have their permanent residence in
towns, or what are here termed “ pas,” which are generally built on
high promontories, or insulated hills, and fortified in a rude fashion,
with a palisade of upright stakes, about ten feet high: the houses or
huts are all built closely together.

Pomare’s pa being near our anchorage, was frequently visited. It
contained about three hundred huts. There was a main entrance
through the palisade, near which are two posts, the tops of which are
carved into distorted representations of the human figure.

NEW ZEALAND. 385

SAN 7
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DRAWINGS OF NEW ZEALAND CARVING.

Within the main enclosure are other enclosures, each containing
five or six houses, with alleys of two feet wide, that traverse the town.
Their houses are very simply constructed: four corner-posts are
driven into the ground, and left from two to five feet above the sur-
face; in the centre line two or three strong posts are firmly set in the
ground, to support the ridge-pole of the roof; on the posts is placed
and lashed a horizontal beam for the rafters to rest upon, and smaller
poles are lashed to the posts, at one foot apart, from the ground up;
on these the roofing is worked: the material used in thatching is the
rush (Typha latifolia), or our common cattail. The manner of making
the roof is to tie the materials on the horizontal strips or poles, setting
the larger ends on the ground, and driving them close against each
other, generally with the fist, and so on until all is closed in, leaving
doorways under the eaves, at the gable-ends; the rappooing is then
cut square off at the upper horizontal beam or plate-piece, and the
roof is put on, made of the same material, and generally thatched
with it or fern. The roofs have usually but little pitch, which gives a
squat look to the houses. Mats are generally hung up at the doorways,
but some have doors made of pine; they are low, obliging one to
stoop or creep, in entering. Around their houses they have usually
peach trees growing, but nothing else is cultivated about them.

The furniture consists of mats, a few baskets and trinkets, an old
chest to lock them up in, an iron pot, and a double-barrelled gun,
generally of the best maker. °

VOL. Il. 2H 49

386 NEW ZEALAND.

don

Pomare’s house was about twenty feet long by twelve broad; from
five to eight feet high. The mode of construction was the same as
above described, with the exception that the rafters were flat and
ornamented with arabesque work, drawn with soot or black pigment.
The posts were likewise carved; but from the dirt and filth with which
they were covered, it was difficult, if not impossible, to decipher them.
It is said that the New Zealanders have improved in the art of building
since they were first visited, but they are still in this respect far behind
any of the islanders we have visited.

Four of our gentlemen, before my arrival, had nail Pomare a visit,
and made him some presents, which, so far from satisfying his cupidity,
only made him more covetous. On receiving a watch-chain, he asked
for the watch; and could not be induced to exhibit a dance, unless each’
person presented him with a shilling. This exaction was submitted to,
though they were disgusted and disappointed with the greediness he
manifested. ‘The dance proved very similar to those seen among the
Samoans and Tafiitians, with the same tossing of the arms and legs,

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NEW ZEALAND. 387

and various contortions of the body, performed by a number of men
‘and women. The only music was that of the voice, two or three
singing in a high monotonous key. The dance was, however, seen to
disadvantage by candlelight.

On the top of the hill is a sacred enclosure, or Kianga-taboo, in
which is erected the tombs of the chiefs. A few days before our visit
one was interred here. The vignette represents the tomb.

This tomb is formed of a small canoe, cut across through the middle,
and the two parts joined face to face, forming a hollow cone, about
seven or eight feet long. The corpse is placed inside, in a sitting
posture, and would remain there a year, after which the bones would
be carried up the river, and as Charley Pomare expressed it, would be
“thrown away any where.”

The tomb is painted red, and ornamented with feathers on each side,
from the ground to the top; it is covered with a small shed, to protect
it from the weather, and enclosed all around with a fence. The
funeral ceremonies were not witnessed, but, from the description of
the natives, were very noisy, and accompanied with firing of many
guns,—a general practice on all public occasions. Their faces and
arms bore evident marks of their having been engaged in the cere-
mony, being covered with scratches which they had inflicted on
themselves.

The pas of the natives are not in reality strong places, but are little
more than insulated and commanding situations. Pomare makes some
show of warlike instruments, in the formidable array of three ten-
pounders, all of them in bad condition, though looked at and spoken
of by the natives with no small pride and conceit. The natives, in
time of peace, do not live constantly in these pas, but are mostly
occupied at their plantation-grounds; for which reason only a few
men were seen lounging about in front of their houses. The women
were generally engaged in making and plaiting mats, or cooking, and
the men seemed the greater idlers.

Their native dress consists of mats of various kinds, made of the
native flax (Phomax), which are braided by hand, and are, some of
them, finer than carpeting, while others are as coarse as our corn-leaf
mats. The latter were worn by the women while at work, tied around
the hips, and sometimes over the shoulders. They carry their children
on the back, like our Indians.

The men were more luxurious in their dress, having fine mats, nearly
as large in size as our blankets, ingeniously and beautifully wrought,
and sometimes embroidered. Both of these kinds are still worn,
though they are gradually disappearing, and the dress is becoming

388 NEW ZEALAND.

more European, or rather Tahitian. The women now often wear
loose slips of calico, drawn about the neck, which are any thing but
becoming, while the men have coarse clothing, sometimes a dirty white
blanket, at others, different parts of European dress. The blanket is

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NEW ZEALAND WOMAN AND CHILD.

worn in the same manner as the native kakahu. They never think
it necessary to use clothing for a covering; it is worn more from pride
and ostentation than any thing else; and not unfrequently a native
may be seen decked out in a coat and vest without any covering on his
nether limbs, and occasionally with a pea-jacket and no shirt. That
which gives a foreigner a peculiar disgust to the persons of the New
Zealanders, is their filth, which also pervades their houses. They
seldom, if ever, bathe themselves, or wash their clothes, which are
usually worn until they drop off from age. ‘They occasionally anoint
their skins with fish-oil, and of course cannot be expected to keep
themselves clean.

To their houses, the description of Cook still applies: they are
small, low, begrimed with soot, besmeared with grease, and are filled
with filth. As yet, their furniture has received no addition from their
intercourse with the whites, except the huge sea-chest and iron pot:
the former to deposit their valuables in, and the latter for cooking. It
was remarked by us all, how few of the grotesque figures, so much
spoken of by voyagers, were to be seen. There appeared to be little

NEW ZEALAND. 389

carving recently done, in comparison with former times. They are said
to have improved in the construction of their houses; but there is still
great room for improvement, before they can vie with any of the other
islanders we have visited. Their food consists principally of the
potato, fish, kumara, or sweet potato, Indian corn, and fern-root, which
is found throughout the country. The kumara is much smaller and
inferior in quality to those grown in the other Polynesian isles. Here
it is a small watery root, and is generally disliked by foreigners.
It is preserved in houses constructed for the purpose, to prevent the
depredations of the rats. These are built on four posts, which are
scraped exceedingly smooth, and are only entered by a single slanting
post. The roots are also suspended beneath these houses in large
paskets.

Fish are taken with hooks and nets, and are dried and laid by for
use. They also eat a clam, which they call pipi. Hogs and poultry
are raised in abundance, for their own use and the supply of ships.
They have, as I before stated, peaches, as well as many small berries,
and in a few years they will have all the fruits of the temperate zone
introduced by settlers. They formerly ate their fish raw, or cooked
with the kumara, after the Polynesian fashion, in the ground, with hot
stones ; but now they use an iron pot, in which all their food is boiled
together. They have a great fondness for rice, with sugar or molasses.
They do not want for food, for their country is well supplied with wild
roots, which in case of necessity or scarcity can be resorted to. They
also make a pleasant beverage, resembling spruce-beer, which they
call wat-maort.

The greatest changes which have taken place in their customs are
the introduction of the use of fire-arms, and the adoption of whale-
boats instead of their canoes. The latter are without an out-rigger,
and differ in this respect from the boats of all the other Polynesians
south of the equator. They have also adopted the square sail (which
generally consists of a blanket), in place of the triangular one common
to all Polynesia.

The ornaments of the New Zealanders are few; those of the men,
who are chiefs, generally consist in an elaborate tattooing, that gives
a striking appearance to the face; the regularity with which it is done
is wonderful. They all have their ears bored, and have small rings in
them, made of jade or shark’s-teeth, tipped with sealing-wax, or small
bright-coloured feathers. Around the necks of the chiefs and their
wives is hung their “ heitiki,” made of a stone of a green colour,
which is held very sacred, and which, with their “ meara,”—a short

cleaver or club,—is handed down from father to son.. The heitiki has
2H

390 NEW ZEALAND. .

some resemblance to a human figure, sitting with crossed legs. This
stone is procured from the southern island, near the borders of a small
lake, which receives its name from the stone, being called Tewai
Pounamu or the Green-stone Water. From the name of this stone,
Cook, by mistake, gave the name of Tavy Poenammoo to the southern
island. It is also supposed that Captain D’Urville’s name of Ika-na-
maw (meaning, the fish out of Mawi), given by him to the northern
islands, may also be the name of some place on the northern side of
Cook’s Straits.) ‘Those who are acquainted with the natives and their
language say, that they have no native name for either of the islands,
or any part of the country, and have adopted into their language the
names given by the whites, with modifications to suit their tongue.

It was a long time before Pomare would consent to his wife parting
with the heitiki which she wore, and that belonging to himself (his
atua) he would not allow us to take off his neck, even to look at. Our
consul interpreted for me a singular story that the southern natives
had invented, relative to these stones: “That they were found in a
large fish, somewhat resembling a shark, which they were obliged to
capture and kill for the purpose of obtaining them. When first taken
from the stomach of the fish, the stone is soft, but from exposure
becomes hard, and must be wrought in its soft state.” This story was
related by Pomare. ‘The smaller stones were about three inches in
length, and the larger ones about five inches.

Pomare is a fine-looking man, and is handsomely tattooed. He is
six feet in height, and well formed, with the exception of his feet and
legs. His dress was any thing but becoming: a blanket was tied
about his neck, and hung ungracefully about his person, leaving his
right arm free; beneath this he wore a shirt and loose pair of drawers,
descending to his knees; the rest of his person and his feet were bare.
In his hand he usually carries a short cloak of dogskin, called topunt,
shupuni, or patutu. ‘These short cloaks are, in shape, not unlike those
of the knights in ancient times; they are about three feet long, being
formed of common cloth, mat, or sewed dogskin, dressed with the hair
on. Pomare’s dress was surmounted by a blue naval cap, with a
gold-lace band. The tattooing may give his features somewhat of a
fierce aspect, and serve to disguise the expression, yet I cannot but
believe that his true feelings are developed in it. His face indicates
any thing but a kingly character. Perhaps his reputation for busi-
ness may have something to do with the impression his physiognomy
produced. He told me he had two wives, but it is generally believed
that thirty would be nearer the truth. The favourite one usually
accompanies him; she is highly spoken of for her good sense, and

NEW ZEALAND. 391

Pomare is said to place much confidence in her judgment. She was
the best-looking native I saw in New Zealand, but would not be called
handsome elsewhere. The missionaries have not yet been able to
produce any effect upon Pomare or the family connected with him.
Pomare’s chief warrior is Mauparawa, who has been persuaded
to remain with him, although a native of Hauaki, on the river
Thames.

Mauparawa is a much finer-looking man than Pomare,—in appear-
ance a very Hercules; but the effects of dissipation are beginning to be
perceived in his powerful frame. He has long been a favourite with
the whites, who admire him for his prowess. Many of his followers
came with him to join Pomare, of whom few are now left; for in an
expedition last year he lost almost all of them: having landed on Aoteu
or Barrier Island, he was overpowered and badly wounded, barely
escaping with life. One of his acts of daring took place in the last
feuds with the Kororarikans, by whom he was much detested. Wishing
to put a disgrace upon them and show his contempt, he one night took
his canoe, and with six of his followers left Pomare’s pa or stronghold
for Kororarika, the heart of his enemies’ strength. He landed there
in the midst of his foes, whom he found fast asleep. Drawing up his
canoe on the beach, he went to the house of a white man, whom he
awoke, and ordered him to give himself and followers some spirits,
threatening him, in case of refusal, with instant death. They took
their spirits quietly, desiring the man to say to the Kororarikans in
the morning, that Mauparawa had been there in the night, with some
insulting message; but before leaving, it occurred to him that the man
would not have the courage to tell of his visit: he therefore determined
to leave his own canoe, (which was very well known,) and take a
whale-boat in its stead. All of which was done merely to throw a slur
upon his enemies, at the risk of his own life.

Another person of some note, is a cousin of Pomare, called
Charley Pomare, the son of the former ruling chief of that name.
Hoia, the brother of the king, appears to be a stupid fellow. Charley
Pomare was very talkative, and although young, appears well-informed
in the history of the island, and is quite intelligent. In his accounts,
he dwells particularly on the extensive ravages committed by Shougi,
who I believe was taken or went to Europe. After his return, finding .
he had lost influence in his tribe, in order to regain it, he committed
some of the most barbarous cruelties that have ever disgraced these
islands, and made his name terrible among the tribes. Most of these,
before his wars, had from three hundred to one thousand warriors, but
only a few now remain in some of those who were formerly powerful

392 NEW ZEALAND.

and independent, and who being from their weakness unable to contend
by themselves, have become incorporated with other tribes. The
reason that the natives give for this diminution is, that Shougi had
killed them all. His conquests embraced nearly all the northern part
of the north island, whose warriors he then united, and led against the
people of the south, about Hauaki, on the river Thames. With these
he waged a long and bloody war, and extended the name of Ngapuhi,
which properly belongs to the people about the Bay of Islands, as far
south as Kiapara. His death, which happened a few years since, was
a great relief both to his followers and foes.

The last war took place in 1837, about two years before our arrival.
It was, in all probability, the last native contest that will be waged. It
was caused by the disappearance of a woman of Otuiha, whom the
tribe of Kororarika were suspected and accused of having killed and
eaten. Formidable preparations were made, and the allies on both
sides called in; the people of Kororarika being aided by the forces
from Hokianga. The principal battle was fought in a piece of marshy
sround between Waikereparu and Otuiha. Here Pomare, better known
by the name of Charley, then quite a boy, led the forces of Otuiha,
while those of Kororarika were marshalled by Pi, a great chief of
Hokianga; and the fight was terminated by Charley first shooting Pi,
and then the second chief, who was endeavouring to save the body,
with his double-barrelled gun. The heads of the warriors were cut
off, and preserved as trophies, while their bodies were left on the
ground. They were not eaten, though the Hokianga people are said
to be cannibals. This latter imputation, however, should be received
with caution, as the information was derived from their enemies.

From all I could learn, Pomare is not deemed very courageous,
and was not himself engaged in the fight. He is looked upon as quite
avaricious, and as a great coward: he is much addicted to liquor. It
will, perhaps, excite surprise to learn how he came to exercise the
influence he does over his countrymen; it is entirely owing to his
eloquence, by which he is enabled to lead them any where. When
Charley was asked the cause of his uncle’s influence, he said that
Pomare could lead the people wherever he chose; and to the question
as to why he himself was not king, he answered, “ Oh, that is maori”
(country fashion).

Some of the gentlemen visited the pa of Pomare, for the purpose ot
witnessing his return from a visit to one of his allies. The canoe was
seen coming up the bay, paddled by forty-five natives, and on the side
of the hill all the people of the pa were collected, shouting, waving
their garments, ‘and firing muskets, to welcome their friends. When

NEW ZEALAND. 393

the chief touched the shore, a curious scene ensued. All the boatmen
seized their paddles, and ran some distance along the beach, where.
they halted, and formed themselves into a compact body, in martial
array. Those of the pa did the same, and were stationed in front of
the canoe; the former party then returned, and when near, the latter
made simultaneously, ten or twelve leaps directly upward, waving their
paddles over their heads, and giving at each jump, a hard guttural
sound, like hooh. The two parties then changed positions, when the
boatmen went through the same motions, after which the whole
mingled together. This ceremony was supposed to represent that used
on the return of a war-party. Pomare was found shortly afterwards
seated in front, of his house, surrounded by his people, who were busily
engaged in preparing a great feast, for which he was giving directions,
and which shortly took place, accompanied by much merry-making.

The chief, Pomare, on one occasion paid a visit to the gentlemen
of the squadron at Mr. Tibbey’s, with some fish for sale, and for which
he had been fishing several hours. He first asked a shilling for them,
which was handed to him, when he immediately raised his price to
two shillings, and when this was refused, he went away in high
dudgeon, and complained to me on my arrival, that he had not been
treated well. Many instances of the same kind occurred.

Mr. Hale induced Hoia, Pomare’s brother, to give him a list of the
various clans of the great Yopaki tribe, which under Shougi had
formerly been the terror of all New Zealand. From this and other
authorities, the number of the tribes were given at one hundred and
five, in which were comprised upwards of sixty thousand fighting
men. Those who are more acquainted, and have the best oppor-
tunities of knowing, state the population at less than three hundred
thousand ; there are others who rate the population from thirty to forty
thousand. A mean between the two estimates would be nearer the
truth. From the information I received, I am satisfied that it cannot
be great. The population of both islands is said to amount to from
one hundred and forty to one hundred and eighty thousand, and the
whole of this number are on the north island, with the exception of
three or four thousand who are on the southern island. It is re-
markable that every tribe has a name peculiar to itself, and distinct
from the district which it inhabits: thus the natives of Kororarika are
called Yaitawake; those of Hauaki (the river Thames), Neaitawake ;
and with few exceptions these names begin with the syllable of Nga or
Ngati—most commonly the latter. These names are thought to have
reference to clanship. The members of each tribe appear to be all
connected by the ties of consanguinity.

VOL. Il. 50

$04: NEW ZEALAND.

Some of our naturalists made a visit to a town called Wangarara,
situated near the coast, about thirty miles to the southward of Cape
Brett. They passed up the Waicaddie river eleven miles to Waicaddie
Pa. Here they found a missionary station occupied by a Mr. Baker;
but none of the family were at home. The old chief of Waicaddie
was very indignant, and treated them quite uncivilly, because they
were going to Wangarara. After procuring a guide, they set out on
foot for that place. The distance is twelve miles, which they accom-
plished by sunset. The road lay over mountains. The village of
Wangarara consists of four or five miserable huts, or what would
more properly be designated kennels, made in the rudest manner, and
thatched with fern-leaves. In order to enter these, they were obliged
to crawl on their hands and knees. The furniture of the chief’s house
consisted of a few mats, two or three fishing nets, and an old chest.
A fire was smoking in the centre to keep out the musquitoes, and the
resemblance to a smoke-house was striking; or, perhaps, the latter
would have suffered by the comparison. The accommodations in this
hut were rather confined and crowded; for besides themselves, there
were three runaway sailors as guests. They, therefore, gladly ac-
cepted the invitation of the chief Ko-towatowa, who was on a visit
here, to accompany him to his hut, at the mouth of the bay. They
went with him in his fine large canoe, and reached his residence late
in the evening, where they found themselves much more comfortably
accommodated, having clean mats and a good supper of pigeons and
potatoes. This was Ko-towatowa’s principal farm. His pa is situated
a few miles up the bay, on a rocky point, and contains one hundred
and fifty houses. It was, at the time of their visit, nearly deserted, in
consequence of the attention demanded by their crops; and this is the
case with nearly all the other pas at this season. ,

This part of the country is flat, and has a good soil; and here Ko-
towatowa raises most of his potatoes and kumaras, which are larger
and better than those raised at the Bay of Islands. ‘They also raise
a good supply of Indian corn, and are at no loss for food, which was
evident from the quantities of dried as well as fresh fish which was
seen.

A great difference was perceived between the natives of this place
and those of the Bay of Islands. The former have had little or no
communication with foreigners, their manners are more simple, and
they have little or no idea of the conventional value of money. The
people of this place appeared more virtuous and happy, and a number
of young women were seen, good-looking, sprightly, and full of
animation.

. NEW ZEALAND. 395

NEW ZEALAND GIRL.

They here saw the old chief of Wangarara, grand-uncle to Ko-to-
watowa. He was very feeble, with white hair, and clad in an old
dogskin robe. He was observed to sit all day on a small mound of
dirt and pipi-shells; having lately lost a relation, he, according to
custom, is tabooed for the season. He does not help himself, and is
not allowed to touch any thing with his hands; his grand-daughter, a
sprightly girl, waits upon him; and it was pleasing to witness the
watchfulness she evinced in attending to his wants, often filling and
lighting his pipe, and holding it in his mouth while he smoked. Not-
withstanding the promising appearance of Ko-towatowa’s house and
premises, it was found swarming with fleas and other vermin. Ko-
towatowa is a member of the Episcopal Church, and daily per-
formed worship in his native tongue. After their morning meal, they
began their rambles, but had not proceeded far before they were
met by a large party of natives, who kept saying to them, “walk
about one hilling,’ by which they soon understood that they were
required to pay one shilling for the privilege of walking on the beach
and picking up shells; on Ko-towatowa’s being appealed to, he soon
dispersed them. On a hill, near this place, Mr. Drayton found a
beautiful specimen of Bulimus Shougii.

Wangarara Bay is a deep indentation in the coast, to which it runs
parallel, and is separated from the ocean by a narrow belt of high and
rocky land. It is said to have good anchorage for a distance of six
miles from its mouth. The entrance is very deep, free from danger,
and about one mile wide: it is a much safer port than the Bay of
Islands. A vessel might pass by its entrance without suspecting that

396 NEW ZEALAND.

a harbour existed. Provisions of all kinds are much cheaper and
better than at the Bay; and although the natives are aware of this
difference, yet not being able to transport their provisions there, they
are content to dispose of them for a less price.

Their kind friend Ko-towatowa took them back to Wangarara,
stopping on the way at his pa, where he presented them with quanti-
ties of peaches, which had been tabooed to his people. At Wanga-
rara they again found their guide, and the two old chiefs,—the elder of
whom was called Kawau, and the other, a little younger, Ruahenna:
both of them have the character of being great rascals. The contrast
between them and Ko-towatowa was very much to their disparage-
ment. With some reluctance they ordered a pot of potatoes to be
boiled; but when night came, they positively refused entrance into
their huts unless each gave a shilling, to which Ko-towatowa sternly
objected, saying that they were his guests, and should not pay. A
quarrel between the chiefs ensued, and the only way it was prevented
from going to extremity, was to slip the money quietly into old Ka-
wau’s hand; after which, peace was restored, and they retired for the
night, where they were effectually tormented by the fleas and vermin.
Ko-towatowa, on taking leave of them, refused any compensation for
his services; but a pressing invitation to pay them a visit at the bay
was accepted.

They returned by the same route, and by noon reached Waicaddie
Pa. It contains about two hundred houses, and is situated between
two small fresh-water streams. This is the most cleanly and extensive
town in the neighbourhood of the Bay of Islands. Mr. Baker, of the
Episcopal Mission, has settled here; he has many acres of land, and
comfortable dwellings, farms extensively, and has about twenty head
of cattle, with good pasture for them. The natives also possess some
cattle. By night they reached their lodgings.

One who has long known the New Zealanders, and on whose judg-
ment reliance may be placed, gives them credit for intelligence and
generosity, and says that they are hospitable and confiding to strangers,
persevering where the object concerns themselves, strongly attached
to their children, and extremely jealous of their connubial rights. A
violation of the latter is punished with death, not only to the parties
themselves, but sometimes extended to the near relatives of the
offenders. They are crafty, but not overreaching in their dealings,
covetous for the possession of novelties, although trustworthy when
any thing is placed under their immediate charge, but not otherwise
over-honest.

A transient visiter would hardly give them so high a character, and

NEW ZEALAND. 397

would, I think, have an unfavourable opinion of the race. He might,
however, award to them intelligence ; but they appear vindictive, and,
from a number of facts, must be treacherous. One cannot be long
among them, without discovering that they are adepts in trickery, and
suspicious in their dealings. These bad qualities they may have ac.
quired from the number of low whites that are among them. They
seem destitute of any of the higher feelings, such as gratitude, tender-
ness, honour, delicacy, &c. They are extremely indolent and dirty,
disgusting in their habits, and carry on the infamous practice of traffic
in women, which even the highest chiefs are said to be engaged in,
openly and without shame. The vice of drunkenness does not exist
among them to any degree, and it is not a little astonishing that the
bad example set them should not have been more followed. They are
extremely proud and resentful of any insult, to avenge which the
whole tribe usually unites. As an instance of this, we may cite the
conduct of Ko-towatowa, whose hospitality to one of our parties has
been recorded. At the invitation of the gentlemen who had been
indebted to him for attentions, he visited them at Tibbey’s, when an
untoward circumstance occurred, which had well-nigh ended in an
open affront. As they were seated in the porch of Tibbey’s house,
one of their thoughtless visiters, by way of affording amusement to
the company, played off upon Ko-towatowa a boyish trick, by burning
him on the nose with a cigar. This produced great anger in the chief,
who would have at once punished the rudeness, but through the timely
interference of the bystanders, he became appeased, but required some
atonement for the insult offered him; a half-dollar was given him, but
he said he would accept only half, as he did not want to be paid for it,
but merely desired a token that it had been atoned for. In the opinion
of all, he rose much above the silly trifler who had been the perpe-
trator of the joke.

The natives are peculiarly sensible to any insult of this kind. A
short time before our arrival, a mischievous white boy, staying with
our consul, had placed a small brass kettle on the head of an old chief,
which caused some amusement to the bystanders. The chief at the
time did not show any signs of being offended. He had always been
well disposed and peaceable towards the whites, and was known. to
have a strong partiality towards the family. On going to the pa,
however, he mentioned the circumstance to his tribe, which produced
a great excitement among them. They assembled and advanced in a
body to the dwelling, to require satisfaction for the aflfront offered, and
although they were told and convinced it was done in playfulness,

they required atonement; and this being refused, they took all the
21

398 NEW ZEALAND.

clothes that were hanging to dry on the lines, and every thing they
could find about the premises. They even took the shoes and clothes
off a sick boy, who was lying in the veranda. Their rapacity was
only stopped by the courage of the mistress of the house, who, being
unable to check their proceedings by remonstrances, threw a billet of
wood at the principal chief. This bold act astonished him, and from
admiration of her courage, caused them at once to desist, saying she
had a big heart, which is their figurative term for a courageous per-
son. Insults given in this accidental way, have been known to occa-
sion the most deadly feuds. They have, however, great command of
temper when insulted. As an instance of this, an anecdote was re-
lated to me of some chiefs having become offended at the Episcopal
missionaries in consequence of some transaction respecting lands, in
which they conceived themselves wronged. The offended parties pro-
ceeded to Pahia in order to demand redress; but on their arrival there,
the missionaries were absent, and although the whole property was at
their mercy, there being no one on the premises but females, they did
not harm any thing, and declined to enter into any explanation until
they had seen the missionaries. ‘Taking their seats quietly at the gate,
they awaited their return, which did not take place for some hours
after, when they demanded an explanation of the supposed wrong, and
atonement for it; and being satisfied, they departed without any mo-
lestation or injury whatever. It will, in all probability, be said, that
such patience was in consequence of the parties complained of being
missionaries; but that could not well have been the case, for they are
by no means popular with the natives, and the reason is, that the mis-
sionaries show very little regard for their own countrymen, which, in
the eyes of a New Zealander, is a great crime.

From all I could gather, I am inclined to believe them an observant
people, and that they would become an industrious one, were it less
easy to provide themselves with the necessaries of life. They show
much energy of character in their warlike pursuits, on which their
whole minds seem yet to dwell. The spontaneous productions of their
soil furnish them so easily with all that is required for their food and
clothing, that there is no sufficient incitement to industry.

The New Zealanders are above the middle size, well formed, and
athletic; they vary in colour from a chestnut to a light copper; they
have black hair, very thick and curly, which many suffer to grow
long, while others crop it close. I saw few with whiskers, and their
beards were light. The forehead is high, sloping backwards; the
nose frequently aquiline and prominent; the eyes are black and
piercing, but rather small; the tattooing gives a hardness of outline

NEW ZEALAND. 399

to the chiefs that is not so observable in the common people; they
want, however, the softness of the rest of the Polynesian family, of
which they are a part, not having the full muscles, or soft contour of
face, which we had hitherto observed among the groups we visited.
They are as indolent as the other cognate races, but more capable of
undergoing fatigue.

The following is one of their traditions respecting their origin.
The first natives came from Hawaiki, situated towards the east, in
several canoes, and the names of some of the principal men, were
Tanepepeke, Tanewitika, 'Taneweka, Rongokako, Kopaia, Kornan-
poko: the canoes in which they came were called Kotahinui, Kotea-
rawa, Kohorouta, Takitima. They settled first at Kawia, on the west-
ern coast; then near Maketu, Turanga, and Ahuriri, at the east cape.
The natives, it may be as well to remark, say that this story is all
nonsense, yet the similarity of the foregoing names with those of the
people of Savaii, in the Samoan Group, is striking. This, connected
with the story, which we shall hereafter quote, of the introduction of
the kumara in canoes, taken together, would appear to afford very
strong reason for the conjecture that they were derived from the same
source. In their native traditions there appears to be some idea of a
creation, having a general resemblance to that of the other nations of
Polynesia.

The trade in native curiosities is not quite so great as it used to be,
particularly in tattooed heads. So great at one time was the traffic in
the latter article, between New Zealand and Sydney, that, in 1831, it
was prohibited by law. In Governor Darling’s administration of the
colony, the chief Shougi is supposed to have made large sums by it,
and there are some persons who, in part, impute his wars to his desire
of gain; for, having been in England, he became acquainted with the
value set upon them, and the demand for them. It is generally thought
that many of the heads thus sold have been prepared by the white run-
away convicts, who have Jearnt the mode of doing this from the natives.
They are still to be obtained, though great precaution is used in dispos-
ing of thera. A missionary brig, lying at the Bay of Islands, had many
curiosities on board, in the possession of the steward; and after the
buying of mats, &c., had been finished, he invited our officers to step
down to his little store-room, under the forecastle, where he had a
curiosity which could not be brought out. After this mysterious enun-
ciation, they followed him to the bottom of the ladder ; he then told them
he was about to put his fate into their hands, believing that they were
too much men of honour to betray him. He then proceeded to inform

400 NEW ZEALAND.

them that he had two preserved heads of New Zealand chiefs, which he
would sell for ten pounds. He could not venture, he said, to produce
them on board the brig, but if they would appoint a place, he would
bring them. The penalty for selling them was fifty guineas, and he con-
jured them to the most perfect secrecy. These proved to be beautiful
specimens, and now form a part of our collections. So effectually has
the fine prevented this traffic, that it is an extremely difficult matter to
obtain a head; they are as rare now as they have been common
heretofore; and the last place in which it could have been expected to
find them, would have been on board a missionary vessel.

The New Zealanders are still cannibals, although in the districts
where the missionaries reside, they have done much to put a stop to
this practice. After the arrival of our gentlemen, an instance occurred
of a chief having killed a boy about fourteen years of age, as a medi-
cine for his son, who was sick; and as this prescription did not effect
a cure, a girl about the same age was to be served up, but the timely
interference of the missionaries prevented it.

The present condition of the New Zealanders is inferior to that of
some of the other Polynesian nations. There is, as in other places,
little or no occasion for labour; the industry of a few weeks is all that
is needed to supply them with food for the year; their traffic in pigs
and other supplies to whalers and traders is quite sufficient to procure
their necessary supply of clothing. It is said their moral condition
has much improved of late, and that they are becoming sensible of the
advantages of civilized life. In the former direction there is still great
room for improvement, and the latter, I should think, as yet far above
their ideas of honesty and of the obligations they owe to those about
them. Perhaps those who have become somewhat attached to the
Christian religion may be a little improved, but the only instance that
we can recall to our recollections is that of the chief Ko-towatowa.
The chiefs, however, in general show a growing disposition to acquire
comforts about their dwellings, and in comparison with the other
natives, are almost cleanly in their persons. Industry is also making
progress in the cultivation of their plantations. If 1 could believe it
possible that the dwellings of the lower classes of the people had ever
been more filthy, or their persons less cleanly, I would more readily
credit that some improvement had taken place. Numbers are said to
be able to read and write their own Janguage, having been taught by
the missionaries, and then have afterwards been known to take a pride
in instructing others, and to display a great eagerness in the acquisi-
tion of farther knowledge; but they are far, very far behind, in the

NEW ZEALAND. AO]

rudiments of education, the natives of other groups where the mis-
sionaries have been established, although, as respects natural capacity,
they may probably rank higher.

There is much that is worthy of notice in the missionary operations
here. They seem to have pursued a different course from that followed
at the other groups, and appear to begin by teaching the useful arts,
and setting an example of industry. This has given rise to much
remark. The missionaries of the Episcopal Church appear to keep
aloof from the natives, and an air of stiffness and pride, unbecoming a
missionary in most minds, seems to prevail. They have a chapel at
Pahia and one at Tipoona, but very few persons attend; their native
and Sunday schools have also very few scholars; and they appear to
be doing but little in making converts. Most of the natives, however,
have morning and evening prayers, but their practices and characters
show any thing but a reform in their lives. The missionaries hold
large tracts of land, and about the Bay of Islands the Church Mission
(Episcopal) may be said to have the entire control of the property.
At the missionary establishment at Pahia they have a printing-press,
and have printed some parts of the Scriptures. They are now printing
a New Zealand grammar. In the native traditions, there appears to
be some idea of a creation, having a general resemblance to that of
the other nations of the Polynesian groups. The first god was Maui,
who fished up the earth out of the sun; afterwards a great flood came,
which covered the land, and then the waters were dried up by another
god, who set fire to the forest. From the accounts and observations
of all, it may be safely asserted that the natives have no religion.
Some few apparently follow the form of it, and call themselves pro-
fessing Christians; but the majority or greater number of the natives
have none, either Christian or pagan. When undergoing tuition by
the missionaries, they are said frequently to stop and ask for a present
for having said their hymn, and it is said, I know not with what truth,
that the Catholic missionaries have been in the habit of giving them
some small token in the shape of crosses, which the natives look upon
as a sort of compensation.

At Kororarika, as has been stated, there is a Roman Catholic chapel,
and it is the residence now of the Bishop of the South Sea Catholic
Mission. Some singular anecdotes are related of the natives, of their
first joining one denomination and then another, receiving little articles
as presents from each; indeed, it is said that there are few of them
but conceive they ought to be paid for saying their prayers, or
attending mass. At Hokianga there is also a Methodist or Wesleyan

VOL. II. 212 51

402 NEW ZEALAND.

Mission, which is generally considered the most active, and is doing a
great deal of good.

The native pas are generally scenes of revelry and debauchery.
My crew soon got tired of their visits to that of Pomare, and com-
plained much of the dishonesty of the natives. Pomare and his suite
paid the ship a visit a few days after our arrival, for the purpose of
obtaining his quota of presents. I received him and all his retinue
with kindness, and made him several presents, among which was a
fowling-piece; but he had, in going round the ship, seen one of Hall’s
patent rifles, that loaded at the breech; and nothing would satisfy him
but to exchange the gun I had given him for one of these. He
surprised me by at once comprehending its facility of use, and its
excellent manufacture. After a great deal of importunity, I consented
to the exchange, but found that he was inclined, after having once
succeeded, to beg every thing that struck his fancy. In this he was
followed by the other chiefs, among the rest by Hoia, his brother. To
the latter, [ gave an old cocked-hat, which pleased him exceedingly, and
I was not a little amused to see him wearing it, and dressed in a tight
coat and vest, with bare legs, exhibiting one of the most ridiculous
figures imaginable, although in his own opinion the beau ideal of
elegance. Pomare went about the ship begging for military caps with
gold bands, and was extremely importunate until he found that nothing
more could be obtained. I by no means admired his appearance on
this visit ; for, although of good proportions, tall, and well made, he is
awkward and parrot-toed. His height and manner of walking make
this defect more apparent, and he wants that dignity which is sometimes
seen in a savage of our country. The New Zealanders, however, struck
us as having a closer resemblance to our North American Indians than
any others we had yet met with among the Polynesian nations. J was
surprised to see how little respect was paid to the orders of Pomare by
his followers, and was told that there is little authority acknowledged by
those who are free. His slaves and wives are those who must sustain
the burden of his wrath; their lives are at his disposal, and with them
his will is law; they seem, however, to be treated kindly. Pomare is
said to be entirely under the control of his favourite wife, of whom I
have heretofore spoken. She is a far more respectable person than
her husband, and was the most intelligent native I met with.

Wishing to see their war-dances, I requested Pomare to gratify us
with an exhibition, which he consented to do. The ground chosen
was the hill-side of Mr. Clendon, our consul’s place, where between
three and four hundred natives, with their wives and children.

NEW ZEALAND. 403

assembled. Pomare divided the men into three parties or squads, and
stationed these at some distance from each other. Shortly after this
was done, I received a message from him, to say that they were all
hungry, and wanted me to treat them to something to eat. This was
refused until they had finished their dance, and much delay took place
in consequence. Pomare and his warriors were at first immovable :
but they in a short time determined they would unite on the hill-top,
which was accordingly ordered, although I was told they were too
hungry to dance well. Here they arranged themselves in a solid
column, and began stamping, shouting, jumping, and shaking their
guns, clubs, and paddles in the air, with violent gesticulations, to
a sort of savage time. A more grotesque group cannot well be
imagined; dressed, half-dressed, or entirely naked. After much pre-
liminary action, they all set off, with a frantic shout, at full speed in a
war-charge, which not only put to flight all the animals that were
feeding in the neighbourhood, but startled the spectators. After
running about two hundred and fifty yards, they fired their guns and
halted, with another shout. They then returned in the same manner,
and stopped before us, a truly savage multitude, wrought up to
apparent frenzy, and exhibiting all the modes practised of maiming
and killing their enemies, until they became exhausted, and lay down
on the ground like tired dogs, panting for breath. One of the chiefs
then took an old broken dragoon-sword, and began running to and fro
before us, flourishing it, and at the same time delivering a speech at
the top of his voice. The speech, as interpreted to me, ran thus:
“ You are welcome, you are our friends, and we are glad to see you ;”
frequently repeated. After three or four had shown off in this way,
they determined they must have something to eat, saying that I had
promised them rice and sugar, and they ought to have it. Mr.
Clendon, however, persuaded them to give one of their feast-dances.
The performers consisted of about fifteen old, and as many young
persons, whom they arranged in close order. The young girls laid
aside a part of their dress to exhibit their forms to more advantage,
and they commenced a kind of recitative, accompanied by all manner
of gesticulations, with a sort of guttural husk for a chorus. It was
not necessary to understand their language to comprehend their
meaning, and it is unnecessary to add, that their tastes did not appear
very refined, but were similar to what we have constantly observed
among the heathen nations of Polynesia. Their impatience now be-
came ungovernable, and hearing that the rice and sugar were being
served out, they retreated precipitately down the hill, where they all
set to most heartily, with their wives and children, to devour the food

404 NEW ZEALAND.

This to me was the most entertaining part of the exhibition. They dil
not appear selfish towards each other; the children were taken care
of, and all seemed to enjoy themselves. I received many thanks in
passing among them, and their countenances betokened contentment.
Although they were clothed for the occasion in their best, they
exhibited but a squalid and dirty appearance, both in their dress and
persons.

No native music was heard by any of our officers, and they seem
to have little or none in their composition. In their attempts to sing
the hymns, chaunts, or old psalm-tunes, they entirely failed to produce
any thing like a resemblance. ‘The pitch of their voices when speak-
ing, is higher than that of Europeans, (the French excepted,) and that
of the women was not a tone above, which gives additional coarseness
to their character. Both sexes have but little intonation in conversa-
tion, and there are no tones heard which would indicate sympathy of
feeling.

Chatham Island, which will probably soon be connected with the
English colony of New Zealand, is now considered as a nest of
rogues, and several vessels have been robbed there. Its inhabitants
have a tradition that they are derived from New Zealand, whence
their progenitors came about a century since, having been driven off
in their canoes by a storm, and that on landing they had changed their
language. ‘The change consisted in reversing the ordinary construc-
tion of their phrases, and the syllables of words, as, for Hare-mai,
Mai-hare; and for Paika, Ka-pai. The natives of Chatham Island
are not tattooed, do not wear clothing, and are said to be more intelli-
gent than their progenitors. ‘They were conquered a few years ago
by a party of New Zealanders from Port Nicholson, who had been
driven out by the Kapiti tribes, under the celebrated Rauparaka.

An examination of the charts of the Bay of Islands was made, and
some additional soundings added ; the meridian distance, measured by
our chronometers from Sydney, gave the longitude of the point oppo-
site Mr. Clendon’s wharf, 174° 07’ E.; its latitude was found to be 35°
17'S. The dip and intensity observations were also made here, and
will be found registered with those results in the volume on Physics.

Mr. Couthouy, who was left sick at Sydney, took passage in a vessel
to Tahiti, and passed through Cook’s Straits, touching at several of its
anchorages. To his observations | am indebted for the following
information relative to the southern part of these islands.

The first point they made was the Sugar Loaf Islands and Mount
Egmont. The charts published by Clintz at Sydney, give also the
height of this mountain as fourteen thousand feet, but this was believed

NEW ZEALAND. 405

to be erroneous,* for only a small portion of the top was covered with
snow. The day previous to their making land, they had been set to
the northward by current about twenty miles in fourteen hours.

They next passed through Cook’s Straits to Port Cooper, on the
north side of Banks’ Peninsula, where they anchored. ‘This harbour
is sheltered, except from the northerly winds, and is much frequented
by whalers, who resort thither to try out the whale-blubber. The
beach is in consequence strewn with the bones of these monsters. On
going on shore, a party of three natives and their wives were found
in a state of wretchedness and degradation,—their only clothing being
an old blanket, disgustingly dirty, besmeared with oil and with a
reddish earth which had been rubbed from their bodies, and a coarse
mat of New Zealand flax; they depended for subsistence on a small
potato-patch, and smoked fish; they lived in low huts formed of
stakes, covered with mats, and thatched with grass in the rudest
manner: their condition was but little better than that of the Fuegians.
A fellow-passenger, who had seen the oldest man left of the tribe,
stated that these were the remnants of a tribe that, but a dozen years
before, could muster six hundred fighting men; they were all cut off,
about ten years since, by the noted chief Robolua, residing near Cook’s
Straits. The old man appeared deeply affected whilst dwelling on
the history of his people. The cupidity of the whites in this case, as
in many others, had brought about, or was the cause of, this deadly
attack; the particulars were as follow.

The master of an English vessel, by the name of Stewart, (the same
person from whom the small southern island takes its name,) was
trading along the northern island, and fell in with the chief, Robolua,
who was then meditating an excursion to the south. Feeling con-
fident that if he could come upon his enemies unawares their defeat
was certain, he offered Stewart to load his vessel with flax, if he
would transport him and his warriors to the place he wished to attack.
The contract was readily entered into by Stewart, and the warriors
were taken on board, and landed on various parts of the coast, where
the inhabitants, taken by surprise, were butchered without mercy.
Not less than fifteen hundred persons were cut off at this and the
adjoining harbour of Port Levy, or Kickurarapa. This Stewart is
said to be still living on the northern island of New Zealand.

Many specimens of shells were obtained here, and a few presents,
consisting of pipes and tobacco, were made to the remnant of this
once powerful tribe. T'wo of their fellow-passengers intended to land

* I have seen other authorities, which give its height at eight thousand feet.

406 NEW ZEALAND.

here for the purpose of establishing themselves, but the place offered
so little inducement that they determined to proceed to Port Levy, a
larger harbour to the eastward, where the natives informed them that
refreshments could be had in plenty. The next day they anchored in
it, and found it somewhat similar to Port Cooper, but more open. In
the afternoon a party went on shore, and returned with sixty-four
brace of pigeons, and three black parrots. The former were in great
abundance and very large, some of them weighing twenty ounces:
the colour of their backs was a dull slate, passing into bronze on the
neck and wings; the head was very black, the breast white, deepening
into a reddish brown on the belly; the bill and feet of a bright red.
The parrots were quite black, about the size of a crow, and remarkable
for two rose-coloured wattles at the lower mandible, like the common
fowl. They also killed a species of pica, called cuga by the natives,
about the size of a blackbird; it was of a dull black, with greenish
reflections on the back, and on each side of the neck was a single
white feather, which curled forward and upward.

Here they became acquainted with Charley, or Karakiharuru, the
chief proprietor of Port Cooper, Port Levy, and Pigeon Bay. Not-
withstanding these extensive possessions, neither himself nor his fol-
lowers were better clad, housed, or superior in any respect to those
already described. As for Charley himself, he appeared in a striped
shirt, pea-jacket, and trousers, the cast-off clothing of some sailor.
From having made the voyage to Sydney, Charley fancied he had
seen the world, and took great pains to show his knowledge and
excite the admiration of those about him. The captain of the vessel
obtained from him about twenty bushels of potatoes, at the rate of a
pound of tobacco for a basket containing about a peck; he besides
offered to sell one-third of his dominions or estate for a new whale-
boat. Charley had on the usual heitiki or neck ornament. The only
account he could give of the locality of this green stone was, that it
was found to the southward, in a large bed between two mountains.
Among other things in Charley’s possession, was an enormous wax
doll, dressed in the height of the Parisian fashion, which had been
presented to him by the officers of a French expedition that had
touched there, some time previously,—rather a droll occupant of a
dirty New Zealand hut.

About Port Levy the land rises nearly twelve hundred feet high:
the soil is every where exceedingly rich, but its value for agricultural
purposes is diminished by its steepness; it would be impracticable to
use cattle in ploughing. The land in all parts of the peninsula
exhibited the same character: a succession of steep hills, intersected

NEW ZEALAND. 407

by deep and narrow ravines, clothed with a thick forest, except where
they terminate on the coast, and form a tolerably level spot of a few
acres in extent, available for cultivation. The forest consisted of an
abundance of fine timber, principally the Kaurie pine, from one
hundred and twenty to one hundred and thirty feet in height, and
seven to eight feet in diameter. The fern was thick in patches, but
in no great variety; some scandent and parasitic plants were met with,
and a great number of flourishing ones observed; but Mr. Couthouy
having no means for the purpose, was not enabled to secure any speci-
mens. He remarked that the vegetation appeared much more luxu-
riant and diversified than that of any country he had seen since
leaving Brazil. The soil is a rich black loam, composed of vegetable
mould and decomposed basalt; the structure of the rocks decidedly
columnar, exposing at the summit of the hills large masses of compact
dark gray basalt, containing numerous crystals of olivine, pyroxine,
and other volcanic minerals. At the base of the hill, the rock was
frequently a coarse cellular lava, and the beach was covered with
boulders of all these varieties.

They next stopped at Pigeon Bay, but remained there only a few
hours; the passengers who were in search of a position to establish
themselves, found this quite as unfavourable as either of the two pre
vious places.

In passing to the northward, towards Cape Campbell, the coast is
high and broken, with no level land in the vicinity of the sea; but
notwithstanding its abruptness, they found only fourteen fathoms of
water at a distance of four miles from the shore, with sandy bottom.
They had a fine view of the snowy peaks, called the “ Lookers On,”
about twenty miles to the southward. ‘These are supposed to be
nearly as high as Mount Egmont, and tower up in sharp peaks,
covered with snow for fifteen hundred feet from the summit. The
land along this part of the coast is very rugged, is apparently un-
suited for any kind of cultivation, and has no harbours. Off Cape
Campbell, a line of rocks was seen extending to the eastward about a
league, which do not appear on the charts; they are partly above and
partly below water.

They then anchored in Cloudy Bay, which, contrary to the repre-
sentation of the charts, proved a good anchorage. The wind here
sweeps down the gullies in strong squalls, but the water is at all times
smooth. There are five whaling establishments in Cloudy Bay, each
employing from twenty to thirty hands, chiefly New Zealanders.
The kind of whale taken here is principally the right whale, and the
quantity of oil collected the previous year was four thousand five

408 NEW ZEALAND.

hundred barrels, which was sold on the spot to Sydney dealers, at
forty pounds the tun. In addition to this quantity, five thousand five
hundred barrels were taken in the bay, by whale-ships, principally
Americans, from which some idea of its value to our countrymen may
be formed. The establishments on shore have connected with them
stores for supplying ships, where articles may be had at one hundred
per cent. advance on the Sydney prices; potatoes are sold at thirty
dollars the ton, and pork at twelve and a half cents per pound; boards
and plank may also be obtained at fifty dollars per thousand; wood
and water are purchased of the natives for muskets, powder and ball,
blankets, pipes, and tobacco. It is also customary to make a present
of two muskets, or an equivalent, to Robolua, the chief, for harbour
dues. A Mr. Williams, who was one of the establishment, furnished
the above information.

Two American whalers were found here. A number of chiefs
came off to the vessel, in the course of the day; they were fierce-
looking savages, with coarse matted hair, tattooed visages, and_ bodies
besmeared with red earth and oil; some of them were clad in coarse
mats, others in blankets, and all exceedingly filthy; most of them had
the heitiki ornament about their necks, and some in their ears, which
were also decorated with red and white feathers, and the holes pierced
in them were also made the receptacle of their pipes; others had
necklaces of human bones, polished,—trophies of the enemies they
had slain.

Their manners were uncouth, exhibiting none of that amenity so
remarkable in the natives of the other Polynesian groups; yet there
was a rude dignity about them, that evinced a consciousness of their
rank and consequence. ‘Three or four women came on board, but not
one of them could be called good-looking, and they appeared to care
less about their appearance than the men.

The noted Robolua made his appearance at the breakfast-table,
unannounced and uninvited; he most unceremoniously took his seat
next the captain, remarking, “‘ Me, Robolua!” In person, he is above
the middle stature, powerfully built, and rather ill-featured. The usual
expression of his countenance is not bad, but when enraged, it is truly
fiendish, and his small deep-sunk eyes, which betoken cunning, gleam
with the ferocity of a tiger. His head is of enormous size, covered
with long matted hair, sprinkled with gray; his eyebrows were long
and shaggy; he had a bad expression of the mouth, resulting from the
loss of his teeth, a circumstance of rare occurrence among these
natives. He seemed in feeble health, and his figure was slightly bent
by age; he wore a filthy blanket, and over it an old-fashioned plaid

NEW ZEALAND. 409
id

cloak, the colours of which, like those of his under garments, were no
longer distinguishable. All the chiefs wore their dress so as to cover
their left arm, and leave the right bare, which Mr. Williams said was
for the purpose of concealing their meara, or stone cleaver, which is
constantly suspended to the left wrist, ready, at a moment’s warning,
for use, and which they take particular care never to expose to view.
With Robolua was his principal warrior, Oranga-dieti, a fine specimen
of a savage chieftain, about fifty years of age, with a noble though
fierce cast of countenance, nearly six and a half feet in height, and as
straight as an arrow; his long hair was tied up behind, a la Grecque,
the knot being secured by two long black feathers stuck through it;
altogether he had more the appearance of a chief than Robolua; the
latter, from the account Mr. Williams gave of him, owes his ascen-
dency more to his powers of persuasion in council, and his talents for
strategy in their system of warfare, than to his warlike achievements ;
and he seldom risks his person in battle. The chiefs, in their figurative
language, say, “The breath of Robolua can turn them round and
round, and his tongue is more powerful than any of their weapons.”
He was originally a petty rangatira (landholder). Of late years his
power had very much declined: five or six years ago he could number
more than six thousand warriors, but now he has not over four hun-
dred. His rapid rise is imputed to the introduction of fire-arms, for
he was long the only chief who possessed any number of them; and
the decay of his power is attributed to the acquisition of this weapon
by others, and the inactivity arising from his advancing age. Several
of the natives who were met here could read, and a portion of the
Testament was seen in their possession; two women in particular
were desirous of showing their accomplishments, and remarked that
the missionary religion was not made for New Zealanders; it was too
good for them. Drunkenness and dishonesty prevail, by their own
confession, among the white men, who are at times entirely beyond
the control of their masters; they all have native wives, who are taken
and discarded at pleasure.

The whalers stated that the prevailing winds at Cloudy Baya in
summer and the beginning of autumn, from November to March, are
from the southeast and northwest, which usually succeed each other at
short intervals; during the rest of the year, winds from south round to
west are more frequent, and bring with them wet weather.

The general information which we obtained, and which has not
been included in the preceding portions of the chapter, is as follows:

The climate of New Zealand is extremely changeable ; but although
it may be considered as the cause of many diseases among the natives

VOL. Il. 2K 52

410 NEW ZEALAND.
co

it is, perhaps, the best suited to a European constitution of any in the
South Seas. A large quantity of rain falls during the year, but I was
unable to obtain any record of its exact amount. The temperature at
Kororarika, during the months of February and March, varied from
53° to 78°, and the mean was 64:2°. In the sun the thermometer rose
as high as 110°.. The principal prevailing winds are from the south-
east and west; the former are frequently in squalls, and attended with
rain: May and June are the rainy months.

Warm days are often succeeded by cold nights, which give rise
to pectoral diseases among the natives, many of whom are affected by
phthisis, or swept off by rapid consumptions. They are also liable to
rheumatism and pleurisy. European and American residents, who
enjoy better food and clothing, and inhabit more comfortable dwellings,
are exempt from these complaints. Measles, hooping-cough, and other
epidemics, have been introduced from foreign vessels. While we lay
at the Bay of Islands, the influenza prevailed on shore and was com-
municated to our crew. The venereal disease, propagated by their
licentious habits of life, and unchecked by medicine, is rapidly reducing
the numbers of the natives.

The greater part of the soil of the portion of New Zealand which
fell under our observation is too sterile to be profitably employed in
agriculture. It consists, in general, of an obdurate yellow loam,
capable of bearing little else, after it is cleared of trees and brush-
wood, than the fern (Pteris esculenta). Where the soil is volcanic,
however, it is comparatively fertile ; but this description of ground is
rare.

Wheat and other grains are raised, and the fruits and vegetables of
temperate climates succeed well. The hills are almost bare of vege-
tation; for after the ground is cleared, the heavy falls of rain sweep
the soil from them into the valleys, and wear the hill-sides into gullies.
In this manner patches of good land are formed in them, which,
however, rarely exceed fifteen or twenty acres in extent. ‘The only
continuous level tract of as much as a hundred acres, is on the farm
of Mr. Clendon on Manawa Bay. The sterility of the soil is not the
only obstacle the agriculturist has to contend with. The fern, of
which we have spoken, springs up the moment the forest is removed,
and covers the land with a dense vegetation. Ploughing is not sufhi-
cient to extirpate it, for it will spring again from the severed roots, and
choke the grain. It can only be completely eradicated by removing it
by hand and burning it. The ashes are then spread upon the ground,
and are found to be a good manure. In this manner the sons of Mr.
Williams the missionary at Pahia, are endeavouring to bring a farm

NEW ZEALAND. All

they possess into cultivation. Natives are employed in the labour, and
they have in this way cleared several acres.

The fern, from its size and strength, is supposed to indicate a fertile
soil; but this is not the fact, for I have seen nearly a thousand acres
in a body covered with a growth of it six feet in height, where the
ground was deemed fit for no purpose but to furnish brick-clay. So
densely do the ferns grow, that it is impossible to force a way through
them, and the only mode of traversing the country where they abound,
is by following the native paths; these pursue the high ground and
ridges, and have branches which lead to the neighbouring cultivated
spots. ‘The moment the culture of the land is neglected, the fern again
makes its appearance. '

The clayey soils afford only a scanty growth of grass, which is
scarcely fit for pasture, and indeed there appear to be no native grasses.
In the more fertile soils, red clover, according to Mr. Brackenridge,
does well; and he believes that white clover would succeed on the hills,
which are now bare. The climate is favourable to the growth of the
foreign grasses.

After the fern has been burnt and the ashes spread, a crop of wheat
is raised, and the land is laid down in grass. ‘To give an idea of the
produce of land near the Bay of Islands, we may cite the instance of
Captain Wright’s farm, which is eligibly situated, and is considered as
possessing a fertile soil. He had twenty acres in wheat, whose average
product was only fourteen bushels per acre.

Among the foreign fruits which have been introduced, are apples,
peaches, and grapes. The latter grow best in the volcanic soils, but
the climate is considered to be too moist to permit them to attain per-
fection. The peaches are fine, but the propensity of the natives to
pluck them before they are ripe, prevents them from attaining their full
flavour. Cape gooseberries are plentiful, but the common description
of that fruit, and the currant, have not been introduced. Late writers
have given marvellous accounts of the growth of the fruit trees of
temperate climates, in New Zealand; but these may be set down as
exaggerations calculated to mislead, and intended to subserve specu-
lation. The success of Captain Wright, however, in raising fruit and
vegetables, has been great.

Among the native vegetables is the sweet-potato, which they call
kumara: it is plentiful.

The missionaries stated that the natives have a remarkable tradition
in relation to this root; namely, that it was first brought to the island
in canoes of a different construction from their own, and composed of
pieces of wood sewed together.

412 NEW ZEALAND.

Cook left the common potato, which has been cultivated ever since
his visit, and is now plentiful.

The native hemp (Phormium tenax) is a most useful plant; it grows
in large quantities, and is applied by them to many purposes, besides
being a principal article of foreign trade. It is an important material
in the construction of their houses, for which purpose it is made into
cords, that are also employed for other more common uses. It is
manufactured into fine fishing-lines, which are much prized at Sydney
for their strength and beauty.

The manufacture of the hemp is altogether performed by the women,
who cut it, and after it has been dried a little, divide it into strips of
about an inch in width. The outer green fibres are then scraped off
with a piece of glass, or a sharp shell. The inner fibres being thus
exposed are easily separated, and the greatest care is taken to keep all
the fibres as straight as possible, both in this and the following ope-
rations. To this precaution the great strength of the cordage the
natives make of it, is owing. After the fibres are separated, they are
washed, rubbed, and laid in the sun to bleach.

The vegetation of New Zealand is of a fresher and deeper green
than that of New Holland, and has some resemblance to that of
Terra del Fuego. According to the missionaries, the ridges, and
indeed the greater part of the northern island, are destitute of trees;
and the woods, which are confined to the valleys, are for the most part
in detached spots. The western part of this island contains more
actual forests than the eastern.

It was remarked by our botanists that trees of genera which in
other countries grow in the more barren soils, are found in New
Zealand in those which are fertile. This is in particular the case
with the pine tribe. It also appeared to them, from the position of
isolated trees, and the quantity of Kaurie-gum found embedded in the
soil, that forests had formerly been more generally spread over the face
of the country, than they are at present.

The gum which has just been spoken of, is still produced by the
Kaurie pine, which is the finest of the timber-trees of New Zealand.
The greatest portion of that which is shipped from the island, is dug
from the ground. Small quantities of the latter description have
been purchased by our countrymen, and shipped to the United States,
where it was manufactured intoavarnish. This was of a good quality,
and was afterwards sent to New South Wales, and New Zealand,
where it is sold for copal varnish.

The Kaurie and Kaikotia pines yield spars which for large ships
are not surpassed by any in the world. The trees are generally

NEW ZEALAND. 413

large, and are easily brought to the coast by means of the numerous
streams.

The natives use these trees in building their canoes, which are dug
out of a single log. They have no out-rigger, and are in consequence
liable to accident from want of stability. Great ingenuity is shown in
repairing them. We saw a war-canoe which was sufficiently large
to be manned by fifty men; it had a prow extended ten feet upwards,
which was elaborately carved and decked with tufts of feathers. The
' paddles have spoon-shaped blades, by which the canoes are propelled
with great swiftness.

No native quadrupeds were found wild in New Zealand. Cattle
have been introduced, and thrive. Those which are imported require
to be fed, but those raised in the country can provide for themselves,
and grow fat by browsing.

Among the birds, are the native nightingale and the tui, also known
under the sobriquet of the parson-bird. The latter is a great favourite
with the natives. |

I saw it only in a cage, and its note did not strike me as pleasing,
but several of our gentlemen saw and heard it in the woods; they
describe its note as rather louder than that of the bird called by the
Samoans “poe,” and it is at times said to utter a cry resembling the
sound of a trumpet.

The domestic fowl does not appear to have been known before this
island was visited by white men.

I made inquiries in relation to the mode in which birds were taken
in this country before the introduction of fire-arms, but could not obtain
any satisfactory information. I was inclined to think that the natives
had no method of doing this in former times. :

The great staple articles of trade are flax, spars, and wheat; pota-
toes and gum are also exported ; but the whale-fishery is of more value
at present to foreigners than all the productions of the soil. This is
carried on from the shores by parties of New Zealanders and foreigners ;
but they are rapidly destroying this source of wealth, for, as has been
stated, their eagerness for present gain leads them to destroy the ani-
mals whether old or young, without discrimination. :

The whaling establishments of British subjects on the coast are
numerous, and the most disgraceful acts are perpetrated by their occu-
pants and by the crews of the whale-ships, who not only use violence
against the natives, but against each other. As New Zealand is in the
immediate vicinity of the whaling-ground, it is a desirable rendezvous
for our whalers; and the American whaling fleet, actively employed

on the coast in the spring of 1840, amounted to one hundred sail.
2K2

414 NEW ZEALAND.

Many spars are now exported to England, where, however, the
smaller sticks are not as much esteemed in proportion as the larger
ones. Several government vessels have recently obtained spars for the
Royal Navy at the trifling cost of a few blankets and muskets. The
latter, in particular, are a great inducement to the chiefs, who are
willing to devote much labour for the purpose of acquiring the means
of rendering themselves powerful. Besides guns and blankets, gun-
powder, lead, coarse blue and white cottons, whiskey, rice, sugar, and
molasses are the articles most in request. These now bring enormous
prices, in consequence of the demand caused by the number of immi-

grants; but the effect of these prices is to render labour proportionably
dear.

NEW ZEALAND IHU AND WEAPONS.

APP EN, Dale xX...

ise

iz nhipes i

XXiI,

XXIL.

C0 NOT EN. tS.

REGULATIONS RESPECTING TRADE WITH NATIVES ...ceeeee sosccorecccsseses 419

ORDERS FOR LIEUTENANT EMMONS'S PARTY ........ ER OTC Ty MAR ON
ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT-COMMANDANT RINGGCLD......cssecceeccscsscceesees 421
LETTER TO QUEEN POMARE....... Soe Ret SONA cep ae Re Pee! SAR
ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT-COMMANDANT RINGGOLD ......-.scceseecceceeeee oe 494
ORDERS TO CAPTAIN HUDSON AND LIEUTENANT PINKNEY .........-...000 . 424
ABSTRACT OF DIARY KEPT AT PAGO-PAGO HARBOUR ........ Rseakioalta naa 426
EXTRACT OF A LETTER RELATIVE TO REMARKABLE FLOW OF THE 8EA.. 427
COMMERCIAL RULES AND REGULATIONS OF SAMOAN GROUP .......-..e00005 428
TABLES OF NUMBER OF PERSONS COMMITTED FOR TRIAL IN NEW SOUTH
WALES cic. 5: OS STR em 3h CoO RAS. pier RE a Mac Shr ohichte ah AE CR 431
ORDERS TO THE NATURALISTS, ETC., ETC... .:c.ccccccccsessccnesseues Hohl eee 433
RETURN, OF SOHOGRS CRTC As a. tc ee fee een ee ees Rete 076
CENSUS OF 1841, AND RETURN OF IMMIGRANTS AND CONVICTS ARRIVED.. 438
TABLE OF RETURN OF BANKS, ETC., ETO......0c.sccccecssccceneusseneuavereeees 442
TABLE OF RETURN OF VALUE OF EXPORTS............ 0005 A kf Made PICA Ri + nF 443
TABLE OF RETURN OF VESSELS BUILT AND REGISTERED IN THE COLONY,
MUABUEEVE STOCK 20 ee oide cnc. soe scones RA Aen) Tn Gite ah 444
TABLE OF RETURN OF TONNAGE OF VESSELS ARRIVING AND DEPARTING 445
TABLE OF RETURN OF WOOL AND DUTIES, ETC., ETC......-.ssseeeeeeeees sane 447
TABLE OF RETURN OF SALE OF CROWN-LANDS. ........eseeeee eens shoe sei BRB
TABLE OF ESTIMATED QUANTITY OF LAND IN CULTIVATION..........6.-5- 448
REPORT OF STATE OF PEACOCK.........- Se coc Rae e eee Tes btbeeh. pane Bet 449
TABLE OF RETURNS OF TIMBER AND FISHERIES ........ssseeceeereeeeceeeces .» 450

VOL. II. 53 (417)

418

XXIII.
XXIV.
XXV.
XXVI.
XXVIII.
XXVIII.
XXIX.
XXX.

XXXI.

CONTENTS.

STATEMENT OF INTRODUCTION OF SHEEP IN NEW SOUTH WALES........ 453
LETTER TO CAPTAIN JAMES ROSS, OF H. B. M. SHIP EREBUS......--........ 453
INSTRUCTIONS TO VESSELS FOR ANTARCTIC CRUISE..........ece ss seee reece 457
BAROMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS DURING GALES. ...--.. esse cece scence ee ceees 459
LETTERS FROM OFFICERS RELATIVE TO SITUATION OF SHIP.........+.... 460

REGISTER OF BAROMETER AND THERMOMETER ON ANTARCTIC CRUISE.. 464

REPORT OF CAPTAIN HUDSON OF THE ANTARCTIC CRUISE OF PEACOCK... 464

REPORT OF LIEUTENANT-COMMANDANT RINGGOLD OF PORPOISE, ON
ANTARCTIC CRUISE

QUEEN VICTORIA AND CAPTAIN HOBSON’S PROCLAMATION TO NEW

ZEALAND CHIEFS. ..cccccesscdeccscccvescscvescseorssserevecesccne apodonbCo dun eves 473

A>PoPo Ee Ne) lh

I.

REGULATIONS RESPECTING THE TRADE, ETC.) WITH THE NATIVES OF THE
ISLANDS THAT MAY BE VISITED BY THE VESSELS OF THE EXPLORING
SQUADRON.

Ist. The purser on board each vessel appointed to take charge of
the articles on board, intended to be exchanged for fresh provisions
and vegetables for the crew, and for shells, specimens, &c., will regu-
late the rates of exchange, under the direction of the commander of
the vessel, in such a manner that they may be the same on board all
the vessels.

2d. No one on board, except the trade-master and his assistants,
will be permitted to hold any trade or barter with any natives on
board or alongside the different vessels of the squadron.

3d. Any one wishing to obtain articles not wanted for the Ex-
pedition, will procure them through the trade-master, under such
directions as may be given by the respective commanders.

4th. No natives whatever, either male or female, will be allowed on
board any of the vessels (except hostages or interpreters) before seven
o’clock in the morning, or after half an hour before sunset, and none
will be allowed on board during the day, except when the white flag
remains at the mizzen, or at any time when they may interfere with
the duties of the ship.

(Signed) Cuartes WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U.S. Ship Vincennes,
Tahiti, September 10th, 1839.
(419)

420 APPENDIX.

ORDERS RELATIVE TO THE WATCHES, ETC.. ON BOARD THE VESSELS OF
THE EXPLORING SQUADRON.

Tue following alterations are made in the General Rules and Regu-
lations of the Squadron, and will be obeyed and respected accordingly:

Ist. The thirty-second article of the General Rules and Regulations
will be stricken out, and the following article be misenter in lieu
thereof, as—

Article 32d. The first-lieutenant may grant leave of absence to
those officers whose services may not be required during the day,
until sunset. All officers will return on board their respective vessels
by sunset. Boats will be in waiting agreeably to the arrangements
made by the first-lieutenant.

2d. The forty-third article of the Rules and Regulations is amended
by striking out the words “ and third” in the first line.

3d. The “ General Instructions to all Officers,” in the same Rules
and Regulations, are altered by striking out the words “or Passed
Midshipman,” and inserting, “except by special direction of the com-
mander of the vessel.” 7

No division of watches will take place, except by permission of the.
commanders. |

The order of the 20th September, 1838, relative to medical officers,
is revoked ; they will hereafter, when in port, (unless ordered to attend
to special duty,) attend to the medical duties of the vessel to which
they are attached, agreeably to the usages of the service.

No boat will leave the ship for the shore after sunset, unless by
order of the commander.

(Signed) Cuartes WILKEs,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vincennes,
Tahiti, September 10th, 1839.

1.

ORDERS FOR LIEUTENANT EMMONS AND DR. GUILLOU.

Ist. They will compare the sympiesometer of the Porpoise and of
this ship together, and carefully note the difference.

2d. Lieutenant Emmons will provide himself with a pocket sextant,
artificial horizon, and pocket azimuth compass, note-book, &c.

3d. Dr. Guillou will provide himself with two thermometers and an
hygrometer.

APPENDIX. 421

4th. The observations required to be made with the sympiesometer
half-hourly, on ascending the heights; the temperature of all springs ;
the temperature of all the different heights, in the sun and shade;
morning and evening, at noon, 9 a.m., 9 p.m., 3 p.m, and 9 a. m.; their
watches will be set to ship’s time, in order that the observations may
be compared.

5th. As many observations relative to the topography of the island
as may be in their power; the dimensions of the lake on the moun-
tains, its altitude, and, if any opportunity offers of getting at its depth,
to ascertain that also.

6th. The meridian altitude, or that of double altitudes for latitude.

7th. Any peculiar or remarkable atmospheric phenomenon, such as
refraction, &c., will be sketched, and the time of appearance noted;
the other observations will be made at the same time.

(Signed) Cuartes WILKEs,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U.S. Ship Vincennes,
Matavai Bay, September 13th.

ITI.

U.S. Ship Vincennes,
Matavai Bay, September 19th, 1839.
Sir,—

You will proceed with the Porpoise under your command, to the
west end of Nairsa, Dean’s, or Prince of Wales’s Island, in longitude
148° 02’ W., and latitude 15° 05’ 30” S.- You will measure the dis-
tance from this point to Krusenstern’s Island, both by your log and
chronometer observations.

You will circumnavigate Krusenstern’s Island, and ascertain the
latitude and longitude of its eastern and western points; thence to the
small island which you saw before, carefully ascertaining its distance
from Krusenstern’s ; after which you will proceed westerly, to search
for Lazareff Island, said to be in latitude 14° 56’ S., longitude 149°
10’ 00” W. I am disposed to believe, from our examinations, that
Krusenstern’s Island may have been taken for a part of Dean’s Island ;
that a passage of a few miles may exist, dividing what we now believe
to be Krusenstern’s Island; if such exist, it is at its western extremity.

From thence you will proceed along the parallel of latitude 15° 30’
S., and keep a good look-out for Recreation and Fugitive Islands, laid
down on Arrowsmith’s Chart, and until you have passed the longitude
of 165° W. ‘There is a reef and island supposed to exist in about 161°

W.; this ground you will well examine.
QL

422 APPENDIX.

Thence you will proceed to the easternmost of the Navigator’s
Group, the south part of Manua being in latitude 14° 30' S., longitude
169° 45’ W., which you will examine, and remain off until my arrival,
or farther orders.

You may expect me off them between the Ist and 5th of October.

Iam, &c.,

(Signed) Cuaries WILKEs,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
Lizut. Com. C. Rinecoip,
U.S. Brig Porpoise.

TV.

TO POMARE IV., QUEEN OF THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.

Tue undersigned has been instructed by the President of the United
States to visit Tahiti with the squadron under his command, to inquire
into and make representations respecting certain occurrences that have
taken place; and to assure you that the President and country place
full reliance upon the letter addressed by you to the President of the
United States, dated September 20th, 1839, a copy of which is en-
closed, in which you invite all Americans to visit your ports, and give
assurances of protection and friendship; in consequence of which the
President has established a consulate at Papieti, for the purpose of
watching over an extensive commerce now carried on by American
citizens, which results in advantages to both countries; and farther,
that the President continues to feel much good-will and interest toward
the government and inhabitants of these islands.

Ist. That the President, feeling this strong reliance in the promises
contained in the said letter, could not but be astonished that the autho-
rities had suffered an occurrence to take place that might be deemed
an infringement of the former consular premises. At the same time
that he was disposed to overlook that circumstance, he desired that
some assurance should be given that such an occurrence, so contrary
to the laws and usages of nations, should not be repeated, and to warn
them, through me, that it must not occur again.

2d. Relative to the ill treatment of the crew of a whale-boat be-
longing to an American vessel, in 1836, and the detention of the boat
at the Queen’s boat-house, and the delay of bringing the offenders to
justice. Such acts must not occur again.

3d. The consul of the United States will maintain and be ever ready
to aid the authorities in the execution and ascendency of their laws,

APPENDIX. 423

particularly as respects the deportment of American seamen; and
every facility offered to other consuls should be extended to him for
the discharge of his duties, by assigning for his use a portion of land
in a suitable situation to enable him to perform his duties advantage-
ously, particularly as you invited the President to send him, and re-
quested that our vessels might visit your ports.

4th. Relative to the inefficiency of the laws in regard to the appre-
hension of deserters from the whale-ships, and the absolute necessity
of providing a jail or place for their safe-keeping, until they can be
sent on board; also, for the appointment of a proper police to watch
over and secure any offenders, otherwise it is impossible that. the
consul can Carry into effect the good intentions of the President, that
all who violate the laws may be punished and made examples of.

5th. It has been represented that a Jaw formerly existed or still
exists, exacting from seamen landing on this island the sum of thirty
dollars.

If there is such a law it is extremely oppressive to them, as they
are under the protection of, to be taken care of, and sent away by the
consul as soon as convenient, agreeably to the laws of the United
States. Any such law should be revoked or amended. Seamen else-
where are exempted from such dues, unless they do not leave in a
reasonable time, or intend to become residents.

The President and country entertain the fullest confidence that
justice will be exercised at all times to American citizens, and that
they will be safely guarded and protected in their rights secured to
them by treaty and assurances given them heretofore.

The President will order vessels of war to visit these islands fre-
quently, for the protection of American citizens and commerce, and to
see that justice be done to all.

The undersigned requests that this communication may receive the
careful attention and consideration of the Queen and chiefs, and that
a written answer may be returned to him on his anchoring in the
harbour of Papieti, where he intends to proceed with the vessels under
his command in a few days, for the purpose of affording the Queen
and chiefs an opportunity of visiting the vessels, and of receiving a
few tokens of friendship from the President as evidences of his con-
tinued regard.

All of which is respectfully submitted.

(Signed) Cuartes WILKEs,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U.S. Ship Vincennes,
Matavai Bay, Sept. 18th, 1839

424 APPENDIX.

V.

U.S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, October 10th, 1839.
SIR,—

You will proceed to the most western island of the Navigator
Group, called Savaii, passing on your route to the northward of
Upolu, and leave an officer at Apia, to take charge of and attend to
tide-staves hourly.

From thence on your route you will proceed to Manono and
Apolima, ascertaining the distance between each of them and Savaii,
by the methods pointed out in my surveying instructions; you will
particularly examine Savaii for harbours, and will not allow any
thing to escape you that will tend to give facilities to commerce and
navigation.

Dr. Pickering will join the Porpoise for the purpose of procuring
every thing relative to its natural productions. You will land him
at the missionary settlement at Savaii, with an officer to attend to the
tide-staves hourly, until you leave that island.

Lieutenant Alden, with a boat and crew from this ship, will be put
under your orders, for duty.

You will return to the harbour of Pago-pago as soon as you shall
have finished, which will not detain your arrival beyond the 20th inst.

If there are any of the crew of the Porpoise who are on the sick-
list, and unfit for duty, you will send them, with their bags and ham-
mocks, to this ship.

As many specimens, sketches, &c., as possible, will be obtained as
usual by the officers; also observations, &c., noted.

The presents for natives will be exchanged for specimens, also fresh
provisions, &c., for the crew.

Wishing you a successful cruise,
Iam, &c.,

(Signed) Cuaries Witkes,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
Lirut. Com. C, Rinccorp,

U. 8. Brig Porpoise.

Vi.

U.S. Ship Vincennes,
Harbour of Pago-pago, October 13th, 1839.’
SIR,—
You will, with the Peacock and Flying-Fish under your command,

APPENDIX. 425

proceed to the next island of this group, called Upolu, and enter the
harbour of Apia, situated on the northern side, and will remain while
the Flying-Fish and your boats are making a survey of it, by circum-
navigating it, and making all possible observations, sketches, &c.

The officers sent in the schooner and boats will be careful to
examine and survey any harbour or shelter that may be found,
making sketches of their approach, and surveys; also observations to
determine their situation, &c.

You will also make a careful survey of the harbour of Apia.

Kivery facility will be afforded to the scientific corps, for making
collections and observations on shore; all information possible will be
obtained from the missionaries and others, relative to:the island; as to
the population, productions, soil, number of white missionaries, &c.

You will remain at Apia until you hear from me, or until you have
completed the duties required, which I deem five days amply sufficient
for. One of the officers of the Porpoise was left to superintend tide-
staves, which observations will be continued by you after that officer
leaves.

I am yours, very respectfully,
(Signed) Cuartes Winkss,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
Captain Wo. L. Hupson,

Peacock.

U. 8. Ship Vincennes,

Harbour of Pago-pago,
Sim,—

You will receive on board Lieutenant Perry, and Mr. Colvocoressis,
of the Peacock, with their boats and crews, delivering your boats to
the Peacock, and then you will carry into effect the following instruc-
tions.

Proceed to the eastern point of the island of Upolu, then commence
the survey of its south side, particularly examining it for harbours,
and all places that may afford any shelter for vessels; the boats are
intended, to operate with you, and will trace the shore or reefs by
compass, and astronomical bearings. Youwill be very particular in
keeping your deck-board as ordered for surveying duty. The boats
will make sketches of all the shores, and you will be particular in
getting your observations for latitude and longitude, at the same time
taking astronomical bearings, that the point may be determined there-
from. If possible, you will pass between Upolu Island and Manono.
making your survey embrace the eastern shore of Manono Island:

hut if the passage proves dangerous, you will then go round Manono,
VOL. II. 212 54

426 APPENDIX.

between it and Apolima, and survey the whole of Manono Island
only. You will then proceed to the eastward, along the northern
shore of Upolu, to the harbour of Apia, continuing the survey in
like manner up to that harbour; here you will again rejoin the Pea-
cock,—when Lieutenant Perry and Mr. Colvocoressis will rejoin the .
Peacock, and you receive your boats, and remain under the orders of
Captain Hudson until further instructions. During the survey, you
will ascertain how far soundings exist from the shore. You will
proceed to sea at daylight.
I am, very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) Cuarztes WILKEs,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
Lieut. Com. R. F. Pivgney,
Schooner Flying-Fish.

VIl.

ABSTRACT FROM A DIARY KEPT BY WILLIAM FOXALL, PILOT OF THE HARBOUR
OF PAGO-PAGO, ISLAND OF TUTUILA, SAMOAN GRouP, 1839.

CALM CLOUDY) RAINY | CLEAR
DAYS. | DAYS. | DAYS.

MONTHS. Northward | Southward | Southward | Northward| DAYS.

and an an an
| Eastward. Eastward. | Westward. | Westward.

January . 5 13
February . 3 12
March. . | 7 16
Aprils... % 22
May .. 1 19
June. . 1 27
July <i.) 3 22
August . 25
September 8 19
October . 12

—————__________ | _... | — sO NE |_| |

143

oma nd =| | =

=e O = —£§ CO fF HY LF
—"
@
Or

APPENDIX. 427

VIll.

EXTRACT OF A LETTER FROM GEO. BURADER TO THE REV. W. MILLS, RELATING
TO A REMARKABLE PHENOMENON OF THE TIDES, AT THE HARBOUR OF PAGO-
PAGO, ISLAND OF TUTUILA.

Wepnespay, November 7th, 1837, 25 20™ p. m. the tide rose suddenly
to two feet above high-water mark, spring tide.

At 25 30", sunk to low-water mark, neap tide.

At 2% 35", rose as high as at first.

At 2" 40™, sunk to low-water mark, spring tide; immediately rushed
in again with great violence, and with such rapidity, that in two
minutes it was as much as three feet higher than it had been before.
Receded with equal force, and at 28 52™ had sunk a great deal below
low-water mark.

At 25 55™ rose again as high as before; receded about eighteen
inches, and suddenly rushed in again to the same height as at the
third time.

At 35 3™ it was high, and at 3" 63™ it was much lower than it had
been before.

At 3" 12™ it rose again to the same height as at 3" 3™; receded
suddenly one foot, and at 35 173™ rose again nearly as high as at the
third time.

At 3 20™, sunk to low-water mark, spring tide.

At 35 35™, rose to high-water mark, spring tide; sunk to half tide,
and returned rapidly.

At 35 36™, was as high as at first and second times; fell two feet.

At 3" 42™, nearly the same height as at third rising; it then sunk
much lower than at any other time.

At 3° 50™, several feet below low-water mark; spring tide rushed in
again.

At 35 54™, rose full two feet higher than at the third time; fell
nearly as fast as it rose, and with equal force.

At 4", was down at high-water mark, neap tide.

At 4" 15™, rose about half as high as at last time.

At 4» 20™, was down to low-water mark.

At 4" 32™, rose to same height as at 45 15™,

At 4" 40™, a heavy shower of rain fell; the sea at this time at low-
water mark.

At 4" 55™, rose to the same height as at first time.

At 5° 3™, again at low-water mark.

Ai 55 8™, rose again about one foot above high-water mark, spring

428 APPENDIX.

tide; after which it gradually sunk to low-water mark, and during the
remainder of the evening continued to ebb and flow less frequently
than during the afternoon, and not passing the bounds of high and low
water. .

During the evening preceding the above remarkable event, we had
frequent and heavy squalls from the east, which continued till 7 a. m.,
from which time the day was calm and cloudy, and frequent light
showers, but no heavy rains till the one referred to above, at 45 40™,
after which it continued to rain more or less till ten o’clock.

On Thursday, the 8th, the tide continued to ebb and flow in an irre-
gular manner, both as to time and height, being sometimes a little below
low-water mark, and a little above high-water mark, and at other times
ebbing and flowing the same as at neap tide, till 4 p. m., when it rose to
the same height as at the first time the day before ; fell about half tide,
and for a short time appeared nearly stationary.

At 45 24™, rose to the same height as at 45.

Sunk a little below high-water mark, and continued to ebb and flow
during the evening in the same way as during the morning. During
the whole of Thursday the weather was very hot, and the sun shone
bright, without clouds, and with little wind.

Ihe.

COMMERCIAL REGULATIONS, MADE BY THE PRINCIPAL CHIEFS OF THE SAMOAN
GROUP OF ISLANDS, AFTER FULL CONSIDERATION IN COUNCIL, ON THE 5TH
DAY OF NOVEMBER, 1839.

Ist. Att foreign consuls duly appointed and received in Samoa
shall be protected and respected both in their persons and property, and
all foreigners obtaining the consent of the government and conforming
to the laws, shall receive the protection of the government.

2d. All foreign vessels shall be received into the ports and harbours
of Samoa for the purpose of obtaining supplies and for commerce, and
with their officers and crews, so long as they shall comply with these
regulations and behave themselves peaceably, shall receive the pro-
tection of the government.

3d. The fullest protection shall be given to all foreign ships and ves-
sels which may be wrecked, and any property saved shall be taken
possession of by the consul of the country to which the vessel belongs,
who will allow a salvage or portion of the property so saved, to those
who may aid in saving and protecting the same, and no embezzlement

APPENDIX. 429

will be permitted under any circumstances whatever. The effects of
all persons deceased shall be given up to the consul of the nation to
which they may have belonged.

4th. Any person guilty of the crime of murder upon any foreigner,
shall be given up without delay to the commander of any public vessel
of the nation to which the deceased may belong, upon his demanding
the same.

5th. Every vessel shall pay a port-charge of five dollars for anchor-
age and water, before she will be allowed to receive refreshments on
board, and shall pay for pilotage in and out, the sum of seven dollars,
before she leaves the harbour; and pilots shall be appointed, subject to
the approval of the consuls.

6th. No work shall be done on shore, nor shall any natives be em-
ployed on board vessels on the Sabbath day, under a penalty of ten dol-
lars, unless under circumstances of absolute necessity.

7th. All trading in spirituous liquors or landing the same is strictly
forbidden; any person offending shall pay a fine of twenty-five dollars,
and the vessel to which he belongs shall receive no more refreshments.
Any spirituous liquors found on shore shall be seized and destroyed.

8th. All deserters from vessels will be apprehended, and a reward
paid of eight dollars, viz., five dollars to the person who apprehends
him, and three dollars to the chief of the district in which he may be
apprehended, on his delivery to the proper officer of the vessel. No
master shall refuse to receive such deserter, under a penalty of twenty-
five dollars. Deserters taken after the vessel has sailed shall be de-
livered up to the consul, to be dealt with as he may think fit. Any
person who entices another to desert, secretes a deserter, or in any
way assists him, shall be subject to a penalty of five dollars or one
month’s hard labour on the public roads.

9th. No master shall land a passenger without permission of the
government, under a penalty of twenty-five dollars, and no individual
shall be permitted to land or reside in Samoa, without special permis-
sion of the government. Any one so landing shall be compelled to leave
by the first opportunity.

10th. Ifa sick person be left on shore from any vessel for the re-
covery of his health, he shall be placed under charge of the consul, who
shall be responsible for his sick expenses, and will send him away by
the first opportunity after his recovery.

11th. Any seaman remaining on shore after nine o’clock at night,
shall be made a prisoner of, until the next morning, when he shall be
sent on board, and shall pay a fine of five dollars.

12th. All fines to be paid in specie or its equivalent; or be com-

430 APPENDIX.

muted by the government, at the rate of one month’s hard labour on
the public roads for five dollars.

13th. Should the master of any vessel refuse to comply with any of
these regulations, a statement of the case shall be furnished to the con-
sul of the nation to which he belongs, and redress sought from thence.

14th. All magistrates or chiefs of districts, where vessels or boats
may visit, shall enforce the rules and regulations relative to the landing
of foreigners, and apprehension of deserters, or pay such a fine as the
Malo shall impose.

15th. For carrying into effect the foregoing rules and regulations,
the chiefs and governors of the respective districts shall be account-
able, and elect one of their number to act as a magistrate or judge, to
execute the laws.

16th. These regulations shall be printed, promulgated, and a copy
furnished to the master of each vessel visiting these islands.

Done in council at the port of Apia, in the island of Upolu, this 5th
day of November, A. D. 1839.

Mattetoa, his X mark.
Tat-ma-LE-LaGi, “© xX %
Materavu, a a a
Pra, wy 6
Tooa, 6E SSC Ree
Mots, oy 6
Sanca, £651 Smmenaee

Witnesses.
Cuar_es WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

J.C. Witiams,
U. &. Consul.

W. C. CunnineuaM,
H. B. M. Consul.

November 5th, 1839.

The foregoing commercial rules and regulations, having been signed
by the chiefs in my presence, and submitted to me, I consider them
just and proper, and shall forward to the American government a
copy of the same, for the information of all masters of vessels visiting
the Samoan or Navigator Group of Islands.

(Signed) Cuartes Wixxss,
Commanding Exploring Expedition,

United States of America.
U.S. Ship Vincennes,

Harbour of Apia, Island of Upolu,
Samoan, or Navigator Group,
November 6th, 1839.

APPENDIX. 431

X.

NUMBER OF PERSONS COMMITTED FOR TRIAL FROM 1881 To 1837.

CRIMES. 1831. 1832. 1833. 1834. 1835. 1836. 1837,
| mM. | Fr. | M | F. | M mej Fo [ mM | FB] ma | re |] om | OF
Murder, 18; —| 15} 1] 18 31) 54:36) -44- 29) ..1) 27) —
Attempt to mur-

der, shooting
at, stabbing,
cutting and
maiming,
with intent,

Manslaughter,
Rape,

| Arson,
Forgery,

‘Highway rob-
bery, bush-
ranging at
large, with
fire-arms,

Cattle, horse,

and sheep-
stealing,

Perjury,

Burglary,

Piracy and re-
| volt,
‘Larceny, know-
ingly receiv-
ing stolen
property,

‘Misdemeanour
and assault,

1836. 1837.
MALES, FEM MALES. _ FEM,
Sentence of death passed on prisoners, . 32 — 23 —
Transportation, ar 254 42 164 16
Labour and imprisonment, 299 22 315 35
Executed, 26 _— 12 —

432 APPENDIX.
X.—CoONTINUED.

ISSUES TRIED BEFORE COURTS OF QUARTER SESSIONS.

Abstract of Returns of the number of Criminal Issues and Prisoners tried before the several
Courts of Quarter Sessions throughout the Colony, distinguishing those tried by Civil, and
by Military Juries—laid before the Legislative Council on the 11th September, 1839.

| BY CIVIL JURIES. BY MILITARY JURIES,.

WHEN AND WHERE TRIED.

PERSONS
TRIED

PERSONS
TRIED
CON-

VICTED.

CON-
VICTED.

1838.
County oF CuMBERLAND :—
Sydney
Campbelltown .

Paramatta

Wandsor “. 504.0.

Ist. Jan. 1837, to 15th Aug. 1839.
SACIMUESE © Yor tie, hic Aedes oie

Ist. Jan. 1837, to 15th Aug. 1839.
Maitland

CRIMINAL ISSUES TRIED BEFORE THE SUPREME COURT.

A Return of the number of Criminal Issues and Prisoners tried before the Supreme Court
of New South Wales, from the Ist day of January, 1837, to the 15th day of August,
1839 ; distinguishing those tried by Civil, and by Military Juries.

NO. OF CASES TRIED. NO. OF PRISONERS TRIED. |NO. OF PRISONERS hie esa,

YEAR.

BY A CIVIL | BY A MILI- | BY A CIVIL |BY A MILITARY] BY A CIVIL BY A MILITARY
JURY. | TARY JURY. JURY. JURY. JURY. JURY.

1837 136 130 223 175 99 Fi

1839 o7 46 83 76 46 60
301

TOTALS

APPENDIX. 433

DA

U.S. Ship Vincennes,
Sydney Cove, Dec. 11th, 1839.
GENTLEMEN,—

To prevent any misunderstanding relative to the conversation with
you on the 30th ultimo, I would state that it was not my intention to
make any proposition to you to leave the squadron, during our cruise
south, but to receive any suggestions that you might offer, after being
informed of our cruise, that might be considered more advantageous
to your departments than accompanying the squadron in the Antarctic
cruise.

It is my intention to sail from this harbour on the 18th instant, with
all the vessels of the squadron for the Antarctic Ocean.

The vessels will be ordered to call at New Zealand in the spring,
and may be expected there in March or April, if they are not detained
by ice. |

I request that such of you as may wish orders to join the squadron
at New Zealand under these circumstances, will inform me by letter.

I am, respectfully, your obedient servant,
(Signed) Cuartes WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition,
To the Gentlemen of the Scientific Corps.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,
December 19th, 1839.
GENTLEMEN, —

Agreeably to your application, you will remain on shore, and join
the squadron on the return of the Expedition, from the Antarctic
Ocean, at the Bay of Islands, by the 1st of March next.

You will, of course, employ yourselves as may be most conducive
to the interest of the Expedition, in New South Wales and New
Zealand, and will keep a minute journal, making all possible collections,
and a full report to me in writing, of your observations and duties.

Vouchers for passages and expenses on scientific excursions on
public duty, will be taken when practicable for my approval.

I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
(Signed) Cuartes WILKES,
To Messrs, Pzare, Commanding Exploring Expedition.

Ricu,

PICKERING,

Hatz,

Dana,

AGATE,

Drayton,
Scientific Corps,

VOL. II. 2M 55

434 APPENDIX.

Sydney, December 2d, 1839.
SIR,—

The undersigned, naval officers and naturalists, attached to the
Iixpedition under your command, are prompted by sincere zeal in the
public service, and a most disinterested desire to promote the important
objects of the cruise, to submit to your indulgent consideration the fol-
lowing proposition :

We are induced to think that an English brig lately arrived in this
harbour, and, in our judgment, very well adapted for such a service,
may be purchased at a reasonable rate; and that, while the rest of the
squadron proceeds on the southern tour, we may be advantageously
employed in the survey and examination of many interesting and im-
portant islands. We, therefore, respectfully suggest the employment
of this or a similar vessel, and volunteer our best endeavours to per-
form to the spirit such duties as you may conclude to assign to us
during your absence in the south; and we beg you to accept our
assurance, that, in case of your consent, no exertion shall be spared to
justify this proposal, and recommend our temporary service to your
highest consideration. Very respectfully.

Was. M. Watxer,* T. R. Peace,
James ALDEN, Ww. Ricn,
Lieutenants. James D. Dana,
J.C. Parmer, H. Hate,
Acting-Surgeon. Aurrep T. AcateE,
Wu. Reynotrps, Scientific Corps

Srmon F. Buunrt,
Passed Midshipmen.

Norse.—No notice was taken of this letter: it being one of the
official communications of the cruise, has caused me to insert it.
Cuaries WILKEs.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,
December 2d, 1839.
In declining to sign the accompanying paper I do not wish to have
it understood that I disapprove of the proposition in the main. If the
commander of the Expedition should find that it better suited his con
venience to charter a vessel to convey us to a rendezvous, and for
other purposes, I should not conceive that I had a voice in the matter ,
but a direct proposition having already been made (with which I have

* Mr. Walker begs leave to disavow any thought of promotion on the projected service,
and, in anticipation, begs respectfully, but most earnestly, to decline any acting appointment,

APPENDIX. 435

every reason to be satisfied), perhaps some expression of opinion may
be looked for on my part.

I confess then freely that I have been actuated somewhat by selfish
considerations. A visit to New Zealand is a point which I have more
at heart than any other in these seas, and I conceive the time allotted
by no means too much to be employed between Australia, New Zealand,
and the Tonga Islands. Perhaps, if I had every thing at my disposal,
I should feel tempted to touch at some southern point of New Zealand,
before proceeding to the Bay of Islands; but there would be danger in
this, both by land and water, besides the risk of losing the main points
of observation. Farther than this, I should not think of attempting. I
should therefore deprecate any change of plan, which would lead to a
change of destination, but of course should not expect my individual
voice to weigh against the general good of the Expedition.

Cuartes Pickerine.
To Cartes WILEEs, Esa.,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

U.S. Ship Vincennes,
. Sydney Cove, Dec. 23d, 1839.

Sir,—

You will proceed to New Zealand by the first opportunity, and
attend to the following duties.

Ist. You will make hourly observations of the tides.

2d. Observations of the temperature, at eight, twelve, and six;
winds, weather, &c.

3d. Collect all specimens possible for the scientific corps, and other
departments of the Expedition.

4th. Keep a journal, and note all the information you can, obtain
relative to New Zealand, and make a report in writing to me.

You will take with you a tide-staff, three thermometers, watch,
stationary, &c. :

I am, respectfully, your obedient servant,

(Signed) Cuartes Wixxgs,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
Mr. J. W. Waxpron,
U.S. Brig Porpoise.

RETURN OF THE SCHOOLS IN

DESCRIPTION.
INSTITUTIONS AND
SCHOOLS, SUPPORTED

WHOLLY, OR IN PART,
BY GOVERNMENT.

Church of England.
Male Orphan Institution. .

Female Orphan Institution

Primary and Infant
Schools

Roman Catholic.

Orphan Institution....

~~

Primary and Infant--««--

a

Primary and Infant....-

SF

Presbyterian.

Primary and Infant....-+

Australian School Society.

Primary and Infants.....

Wesleyan.

Sunday Schools

tl. INSTITUTIONS AND
SCHOOLS, SUPPORTED
WHOLLY BY PRIVATE
INDIVIDUALS.

Colleges.
King’s School
Sydney College. ....--+-.ee.

Australian College.......-

Private Schools.

Classical, Elementary,
&e.

WHERE SITUATED.

Liverpool.....++-
Paramatta...... ‘

Country Districts

Waverly Crescent,
near Sydney .-

Country Districts

@eeeoestes

Country Districts

TOTALS

NO. OF SCHOOLS. |

29
37

4

16

67

142

* Number of Children attending these $

Xela.

NO. OF SCHOLARS

ATTENDING. EXPENSE PAID

BY THE
: 5 GOVERNMENT
2 ca < IN
iad ee fe 1838.

i; | Seed
147 | — 147 3,090 15 82
_ 141 | 141 3,708 5 5
567 | 383] 950

2,580 0 3%
682 | 548 | 1,230

1,396 | 1,072 | 2,468 9,379 1 5
40 22 62 800 0 0
239 | 225 | 464

769 13 11
234) 157] 391
50 70 | 120 126 7 73
563 | 474 | 1,037 1,696 1 63
200} 150} 350 1,121 6 6
Estijmated|/Nos.
46 30 76 178 0 11
* 0015 8
105 | — 105 =
125} — 125 —
7); — 70 —
300 |} — 300 —
390 | 530] 920 —
442 | 444} 886 —
832 | 974 | 1,806 _—
(3,337 | 2,700 | 6,037 |£12,425 6 05

<hools, 312, of which 157 are Males,

NEW SOUTH WALES IN THE YEAR 1838

ee

REMARKS,

Supported wholly by Go-
vernment.

Supported chiefly by Go-
ae some slight por-
| tion of the expense is paid by

the parents of the children.

Supported wholly by Go-
vernment,
Supported chiefly by Go-
| serttien: some slight por-
tion of the expense is paid by
J the parents of the children.

—

| These schools are sup-
leaned by Government, and
| by voluntary contributions;
yitlte principle being, that in
aid of each school, sums are
| paid from the Colonial Trea-
| sury, equal to those raised

by private subscriptions.

The expenses are defrayed

by the subscribers to these

Sinstitutions, and by the fees

| paid by the parents or guar
| dians of the students,

and 155 Females.

ee .-

NEW SOUTH WALES-}

ABSTRACT OF THE RETURNS OF THE POPULATION IN THE DIFFERENT POLICE DISTRICTS, AS DEFINED 1}
LOCATION, PENAL SETTLEMENTS, AND EMPLOYED I.

NUMBER OF EACH AGE.

MALES. FEMALES.
3S od 3 ©
5 | & ee
,| 2 Sas dj ied Ss, |
DISTRICT. eee | s E Sicilia |k
A ~~ ° om fe
5 - 2 g J 5 5 =) = Ps
> | fy o =| ash | 5 Foy S) = aS}
w2 aes = 5 u yi S =
| 87) gel 1s |S 12 | ee
3s lela S = E a) aI a i
s(B/3/E) 29 | 8181618 | 31a
5 a ae} ° § o Oo 5 = aS) 5 o
i eel Wes Bb |e | a] | e318
o = a | 2 = ba lars Slamas e ¢ = P| bn
a] ° () 5 >) Oa pie io} 2) I () >
g ae aes } = Soe dai S el lee, 5 6
Pla |wm |] BA |e |/AIPIAla\| se | & | &
Police District of Sydney . . . . {1106/1977'1882,1849) 11782)1626) 511)1161)1998)1916)1861) 6914) 717
ee Paramatta . . . | 284) 515) 642) 488) 2727) 528) 221} 301] 616} 721| 486} 2089) 331
33 Liverpool . . . .| 922] 139) 220) 83) 588 314| 49
cs Campbelltown . . | 108] 179) 214) 145) 952 A72| 73
« _ Stonequarry . . .| 42] 77) 76) 54! 466 189} 16
‘“ Illawarra . . . .| 155} 257| 213] 190} 1529| 547| 88
ts Berra... | (37) “Si (63) 61 613 173] 31
te Goulburn . . . . | 109} 206) 150) 134) 1835 464] 43
“ Braidwood ... Lol 4965961 540 110}; Ill
as Bromlee <i ve. eto a1) 36.37) G56 363 84 9
“ Queanbeyan . . .| 21} 31} 31) 44) 524 87; 10
ASS: Mi. sie ln ces 36} 53) 56} 50 621 164} 20
“ Windsor .. . .| 238] 449] 504| 308] 1626 841} 177
iS: Penrith. . << : .| 125) 260) 232! 176) 1063) % 550} 87
. Hartley .. . . % |. 23| 39) 41} 44 Bai 109} 11
“ Bathurst . . . . | 132} 224] 159] 178] 1604 504} 48
Carcoar’ 6.0 sy 4 22| 46; 18] 30 606 89 6
Wellington’. 24. 7 U3) 5) V22) 257 44; 6
Mudved ". 0. 20. Ld) 29 "ei 25 397 67) 4
Brisbane Water. . 39 591 .bal) 253 44] 164} 19
Newcastle and Ray-
mond Terrace. 29) 102) 72) 107). 1927 295| 28
DUNO OR 8” ost 50} 71} 56; 110 yal 153} 28
Maitland . . . . | 202) 365) 351] 237; 2324 947) 91
Wollombi and Me-
Donald River. . Sil. 63) 265 wae 429 156] 22
so Paterson!) | so... e-. « 89| 137} 119] 117) 1246 406} 31]
vs Patrick’s Plains. . 77| 165} 160] 105} 1110 3730
Merton and Mus-
wellbrook . .. 33} 51) 46] 55 515 141; 10
u Scone and Murru-
PUNGE), shls ses 35) 52) 39) 33 642 132 8
“ Cassilissile® .-su. a 15) op 229 430 39 2
« Macquarie .. .| 44) 68! 58] 90) 1327 231) 25
a Wellinston: . . .| IO) 8) 14) 37%) 665 53] 4
a ¢ Sli Gilt) os. co sas TA oy 31 20 467 Aq| . 2
Be ce. fiachlan ... % -. D5, A9) 351 760 782 Pa 8}
a < | Monaroo: . 44°. « 36} 90} 65; 96} 1080 162) 20)
feos Murrumbidgee . .| 42] 47) 35] 63) 958 1a) 58)
ces 2 aps ere Mai
| Peel’s River . . .| — | 52] 33) —]| 1258 95} 4}
3 - a New England Ph 23) 23) est 834 Lo:
eS Clarence River . a) %) 16 528) 238 31) 2)
35 l McLeay River . .}| 12} 20] 21} 30} 308 TE we)
Moreton Bay . S| 6). 4) ies ae ie
Norfolk Island . 15) 21) 10) S71 sea722 55) 2
Colonial Vessels . | —|—{|— |] — ao _— — |
County of Bourke . . « | 242) 384) 304) 387) 3355 1485} 67|—
“ Grant .:scs 6). 43} 24).: 23) 45) v AAS 105 6
“ Normanby. . . 8} 20) 11 8 408 AT Ll]
Commissioners’ § Western Port . 18} 30) 37] 68 972 95 8]
Districts. ; Portland Bay. .{| 24) 21) 21) 53 865 96, 4

Port Philip
District

ms Oe Ss es | ee

ToTAL . . . {3707/6633 he hee 53381 iniatee- abl ahs 53644852 19513)2175

,. eee

111.
ENSUS OF THE YEAR 1841.

‘HE GOVERNMENT NOTICE oF 121TH aucust, 1840; commissionERS’ DISTRICTS BEYOND THE BOUNDARIES OF
HE COLONIAL VESSELS, TAKEN ON THE 2D Marcu, 1841.

2
My
_. OR SINGLE. CIVIL CONDITION.
Iz MALES. FEMALES, TOTALS
MALES, TSRONBA TCS, Ses ee
FREE BOND. FREE BOND
2 | 8 : Poa
Sem | Ble
cea Gayla ee eee
S isa by mM =I a
’ Se element a le leis |
iq Oo = o = g o 2 o ae g <
== oe 2 S 8 8 ey 2 Sy S 2 .
Oo # m
| oe 2 jem NEM ee 0 Gl iiaa nee ad Roan ee) =
‘ ~~ eH o=) x 5
Le ale | Se a Se is SO la as | SB le
6082) 14651 A4001| 10731} 3022) 240)1852) 887} 4240) 8836/1023) 48 621) 20733) 14774
1332!
7% |

S00) S41 = 2707 79) (or) Loa Sao) 271. so 2
513} 494) 429) 151} 21; 232} 593) 424) 141) 12
143) 240) 215} 63; 3); 136) 149) 209) 33) 6

09} 1267; 741
60} 1840) 1232
29| 800) 426
56} 2633) 1411
15} 980} 435

{ 6
) 1450} 1722} 1020) 285) 544; 384) 1668] 1386) 473) 30) 869} 221] 5405) 4647
1
2

tS
~J
for)
[)
(2)
On
e.2)
S
oS
(se)
ices)
pa
Or
(NS)
or
(o0)
ie)
wh
por
te
ee
for)
_
bot
(S)
S
[)
(=)
lich le leslie)
i
lop)

2709, 1061

90) 170) 128) 107; 14) 305 Sie) WAS Se28ir th 12; 814) 286

GU E716 83} 73) 15) 149 63} 121} 11) — 6 §=6563) = 201

82) 165) 143] 91) 24) 212 MG) SLOT Sih Yo 717; = 205

Loo) 147) > 267/122) 3h 212) Fes) (120) 54) 1 1} 24 906) 375
1625} 494) 1084] 385} 48) 286) 1603} 514) 318] 31 4, 73] 3922! 2543
616} 556} 520) 169] 128} 224) 598) 486) 128 23 J} 99] 2213) 1335
115) 136) 128) 57) 28 701 112) 124) 22 —} — 6} 534) 264
007; 598] 596] 355) 44). 467) 455} 449) 113) 15} 20) 48] 2567) 1100
69} 160) 197) 118) 4) 260 TOL LE) 220 3h 3} 808} 210

26 94 93} 42) — Sf} 44 39) 8 T— 7| 352 99

84, 100; 141); 69) 9 159 65 o7; 21) 1] — 4| 562} 148

132} 15) 86, 224) 135/115] 1) 208 781 160) 21; 3] 2] 19) 769) 283
131} 150 841 213} 138] 138] 2} 9294 SU a L63) 299), 93) == 9} 869} 281
38 4] 23 93} 110] 106) 2] 9923 18 es ee ee 557 79
200} 290| 437) 261) 139] 150] 591! 341} 148] 205) 98) 10] 28] 71} 1919} 490
55 43 35| 138] 293) 128] 9] 9234 95 DAG pees |e 3| 837 98
50 45 33} 106 200/ 71| 5! 162 28 5S ei |S Wh 5a 95
125} 126) 125] 162] 362) 121] 9] 215 GA bl) 639) (oO) = 5| 994) 251
183} 191) 194) 365} 452/198] 6) 9294) 141 191} 38 —]| — 4) 1509) 374
129} 152} 147) 981) 3541 164) 35) 277| +110) +130) 39! 2} — 7 1258} 281

i:
90! 1334 86 81 92| 958] 445] 178] 17| 434 44} 101; 13) 3] — 6} 1424) 167
82) #921 60 52 32| 280} 2241 76) 111! 380 19 73) 15) — 5| 1003) 112
| 40) 303 35 38 30| 118 89| 11} 10 85 93 Ag eee a 343 7
| 65) 378 68 73 46} 115 68] 60) — 154 52 56l° 15) 4) =<] ja) 443) ae
| 11} 165 13 11 15 24 Gin LE S30) = 8 13} 1{/—j] — 9) 17 24
459| 1623 56 49 Q5| 9997 0) een oie f= | ae 28 74 —|—|] — 3 Ae 105
ae eS sas me ced oS) | a ee ee mi — | a ar =
311) 3571| 1266] -1572| 323] 3987] 333] 61] 98 80| 255] 2520) 58) 2 1] 9} 4882] 2838
120} 478} 107 85 18] 476 61| 1] 36 6 17| S46)" 99) 9) Se 598} 192
57| 445 56 39 961 966) 19%); — | .19 i 21 Hel Ph |) 1; 502 95
107| 1083 98 83 45| 604] 363! 50} 5| 123 30] . 138) 13h) a er ise ae
90| 1012 92 66 35| 942 86, 12] 4 93 99) 135) “S| hae
(4 ps02 66366 26007| 14819| 30745) 15760/584316658| 11343] 14630 22158 3637 316 1838} 87298] 43558

_—_—_—_—_—_—_$_$——_$ $$ $$ TT

ANU
NEW SOUTH WALES—CENSUS OF THE YEAR 1841.

ENT POLICE DISTRICTS, AS DEFINED IN ‘THB GOVERNMENT NOTION OF 12rH aveust, 1840; commissioners’ DISTRICTS BEYOND THE BOUNDARIES OF
IFFER b

ABSTRACT OF THE RETURNS OF THE POPULATION IN THE D: LONIAL VESSELS, TAKEN ON THE 2p marcuH, 1841.

LOCATION, PENAL SETTLEMENTS, AND EMPLOYED IN T.

= BER OF EACH AGE. ARRIED OR SINGLE. CIVIL CONDITION.
NUM . 7
Petes MALES, FEMALES, TOTALS
4, FEMALES. MALES. FREE, BOND, FREE. 3
MALE! BOND,
5 é
3 ei 5 A wey 4
r=] i) b>] J =] S + “4
615 fa 4 . E be n St WS, 8 giles
DISTRICT. elelel|s |@ gielel 2 |]. e SEE - sle|2|
. eS an q °o
Se del ee es ela|3] 2 12/3 g Be Le Ve g WS 8! || 3
ca |e fet | ey YN) SEER ey EWE Sl a OSS ERASE Wee ER ellen ipe
Seale lesh een een aise se | & B Nessde es |e le pse I yie ee eae
aS ENE) @ (El eel 8 EL) Be yi Se |) BEE ee ee BE ES
g | 3 S|) Ble Wea le Wee el a ele 3 3 | a |el|s| & Flies lenll feel lies ¢
Flelgla| PISS /e/e1s]8)] & |e] 8 |) Be ice ee Be ere a El ee Se EP Se de og We
SE EEN Se St a sal 7 RSs elEl/eilele]e l2;e/& |e] 2 lelei(sle] ¢ | ¢
S(elelSlElEISIelélalele lela age ee Sle al a |S VSS yale |e lee
pile fa |e |e |e | 2 Zz ese | — |__| ——|—— —— pase
ie |Feer Pee ; 207| 9082} 14651) 5891) 8883] 4001) 10731] 3022] 2940/1852) 887| 4240} 8836/1023 48] 6! gai] 907331 14774
fee District of Sydney. « « {1406{1977/1882}1849| 117621636) Sot ete nt ooeD 331) 110 4073| 1338} 3309] 1450] 1722] 1020] 285] 544] 384] 1668] 1386| 473) 30] g69| 9011 5405] 4647
Police District of Sydney = - °° * | aed] 515| 649| 488) 2727| 528 at) S7ol 112| 102} 79| 314] 49| 15 986] 285} 456] 366] 341] 270] 79 57] 154) 319| 271| 79] 12] 1] 59) 1967| 741
“Liverpool. . . . | 52} 139} 220) 83) 588) 137) #8) Tt ey ool aed] 4z2| 73] 29 1371| 467] 765] 513} 494] +499] 151| 21| 239 593| 424| 141| 12| 91 Gol iedol tose
“Campbelltown . . | 108] 179] 214) 145) 952] 176) G5) NT) too) eo Sel 1eo| lol 4 613) 184) 242! 143] Q40/ 215| 63) 3) 136, 149| 209| 33| 6| —| 991 gool 496
“ Stonequarry . . «| 42) 77] 76) 54) 466) 65) 10) 11! 933] o991 165| 547|_ ge] 12 2024| 590] 821] 456] 923) 418) 931] 221) 384 460} 801) 88; 6| —| sé o6as\ 1411
“ WMawarra . . . . | 155] 257) 213) 190) 1520) 2a) oe) oo) “Gal 70 53] 173| -31| 4 773; 198} 237/ 201) + 217| +239] 108] 36} 179| 193| 179] 53] 9] —| sl gaol 435
Gini 6 a 0 oll ey Sl Gl on 287 48| 133| 187| 132| 92] 464| 43) 10 2244) 448) 613) 427/ 622] 580} 339] 152} 589] 414) 461] 120/ 20/ —| 46| 2709] 1061
Goulburn. . » «| 109] 206) 150) 181] "5do| €9| 15| 28| da| 52] 33] 0] 1 4 683] 115] 171} 90 170} 198] 107} 14} 305] 97/148] 28) 1| —| 19) s14| 986
Reames RES a] a eg ea a kG cg EOS ag) ag) a a Se Sty la] faa
“ 66 6 0-9 9 10 2 2 4 2 2 =
“Queanbeyan |. .| 21) 31] 31) 44 aire ul ai él 38 to| 164| 201 3 757/155) 220) 155] 147} 267/122) 3) 219| 165) 120] 54 11] 1) 24 906) 375
ee tenelccliens aeel 1ea6l 512] 285) 212| 476 415) 330] 841] 177] 92 2998] 942] 1601] 1625] 494) 1084} 385] 48) 286) 1603 S14] 315/31) 4) 73] 3922] 9543
Windsor... 731] 22 128) 550| 87| 13 1634] 559] 776) 616} 556] 590 169| 128) 224 598 6| 128) 23) 1) 99] 9213] 1335
se Rents /125|/260)/282)/176)) 1083) a8) TO as “45| 29| 39] 109| 1| all 417| 111] 153) 115] 136] 198] 57} 28] 70 119] 124] 29 —| —] 6] “ssal 264
EWR? og 3 6 al] EE a 17a! 1604| 244} 26) 97| 208] 133] 105] 504) 48) 5 2113) 461) 639] 507) 598} 596) 355} 44) 467] 455) 449/ 113) 15) 20) 48] 2567| 1100
“Bathurst. «+ | 1951 "el ‘ial gol 606] 66| 20/ 19] 50| 27| 19] 89] 6| — 712} 94) 116, 69) 160) i197] 118} 4) 260] 70] 112] 22) 3) —| 3] sos] 210
Garcoar) . . . - || 22) 46) 18) 0 oe an! 7 ial ail zl. | aal cl = 308} 44) 55] 26, + 94) =~ g3] 4a] — 97} 44) 39] 8} so] — | 7] 359] 99
mee (Ae Ea ae ee ee a a ole) al S| dae
t Pirie 2) 56) 55] 37] 36] 164 2 — p
Brisbane Water. .| 39] 59] 57] 53) 441) 60) 12) 5
INST CRE 81} 86] 295] 28] 10) 277) 1436) .254| 393] 166] 464] 155] 119) 367) 442) 170] 335] 37| 11) 36] 58] 1713] 647
mond Terrace .| 59] 102] 72) 107) 1921] 135} 17) 51) 96 2 3 5 I = i ceri Sell Cal sl aed) Gee
99] 11] 39] 69] 55] 42) 153] 28) —| 1@ 986] 162) ge4| 118] 351| 155/116) 1/ 427| 120] 92 2
Mae apa| 363| 31 dar ogaal 277| 52/2331 371| 308] 220/ 947| 91 14] 926] 2882) 9201 126d] 679 343/30 385/ 249! . 599/ 704 1164] 2001 95| 3) gal 3808) 2184
Wollombi and Mc- ie : 5 5 sil 5 cll 91 758] 397
ad Ri 2} 49) 5| 41! 78] 58] 34] 156] 92] 8 578] 174) 993] 216] 100] 238] s1| 9] 121| 933 7 2 7
Donald River» =») 37) 63) 631 saa] aaael 120) is| 123 143] 1131 eG} 406] 31| 1 1436] 398] 505 220/659] 390/145 14/ 485| 250| 552, 55| 2] 1) 43] 1843] 903
x = Eateraon Tine | vil deel ae0l 0e| aiio| 152 25] 101 152] 113| 80] 373) 30] 10 1414) 357/504} 390] 442) 439/ 194] 19| 328| 353] 355/ 95/ 14) 2) 4a! 1798] 861
‘“ Patrick’s Plains. . | 77| 165] 160] 105] 1110] 152] 29 52) 11 ; / 3 3
“Morton and Mus! gal 51| 4e| 55] s1s| s9| 10| 34 41| 36] 18| 141 10] 1 625] 132) 151) 86] 224] 195/115] 1) 208} 78] +160) 21) 3) | 19) 769] 283
geese rand Muri; 7 163) 22) 3 9) 869] 281
i... .| 35| 52) 39) 33| 642] 63] 5] 38 54) 27| 22] 139) 8) — 7311 131/ 150| 84] 213] 138/198] 9] 04) 84 =
« cuaiig 2522] o7| as 16 a9] 430] so/ 10} 13) 10] 12] 3] 39) 2 53] 504] 38] 41 +231 -~=93|« 110) 106| 2] 923) 18| 55 6|—|—|—| 557] 79
“Macquarie . . .| 44! 68] 58] 90) 1327| 240} 92) 54] 68) 44) 61) 231) 25) 7 498) 1491) 9200) 290/ 437] 261| 139] 150] 591] 341) 148} 205) 28) 10) 28) 71) 1919 a0
“Wellington . . .| 10} 18] 14) 37| 665) 87| 6) 12} 19) 8 2 53) 4) — 1) 758 55 43} 35} 138) 293/128] 9| 234 25) 54| 16 = 3] 837 9
: Bligh . . . . «| 14| 27| 3] 20} 467] 45] 1] 11] 21) 10] 4) 47! 2) —|" S| 5931 50) = a5] ~—-33| «106 + 200| 71/ 5) 162; 28} 59) 7) —|—] 1] 577] 95
Ae Lachlan . . . .| 25| 42| 35| 60| 782| 41) 9] 99] 39) 27| 22| 195] 9 124) 870] 125] 196 125| 162] 362} 121) 9} 215) 94] 111) 39] 9] —| 5] 994) 251
_ 33 Monaroo . . . .| 36) 90) 65) 96) 1080) 118] 24) 52) 68] 30) 41 162 20) 1) 9183} 1396) 183 191} 194) 365) 452/198] 6) 294) 141 191) 38 —| — 4) 1509 oe
geee Murrumbidgee . .| 42) 47] 35| 63) 958] 97] 16| 34] 55) 29) 21) 133) 8) 1) M4) qij4l y99) y5a| 147] 981| 354| 1641 35] 277/ 110) 130) 32) 9} — 7] 1258
EaSee ss i -\~
2235 4 Peel’s River . . . = 52) 33 29 1258] 75) 6] 2| 43) 23) — 95) 4) — 90) 1334) 86 81 92| 958] 445/178] 17] 434 44 101) 13) 3) — 6| 1424) 167
Bags . «| 11} 23} 93] 51) 834) 56) 5] 16] 17) 8] 10} 57) 4|/—| ® 32| 980 gad) el 11/ 380/ 19! 73/ 15]—|—]| 5] 1003] 112
228 New England 921 60) 52) 2 343 73
a> Clarence River . . 7) 7) 16] 52) 238) 22 1 8} 12! 11) 9 31 a = 40) 303) 35) 38 30) 118 89} 11) 10 85 93 41} 7) — — ell sea
McLeay River . .| 12| 20) 21) 30) 308) 47) 5) 17) 25] 11) 14 71) 2) 7 6 378 68 73 46} 115 68] 60} — 154 52 56] 15) 4) —| 14
8 af 6] 24
Moreton Bay . . 8 6] 4) 2) 148) 98] — fy al Bl = 15] 1) — 165 13 ll 15 24 6| 1) 130) — 8 13) 1; —]| — 2 ane nis
Norfolk Island. .| 15) 21) 10| 87] 1722} 189) 38) 16) 12] 12) 7] 53) 9] 1603] el 4g)! 297 S| nell sal ll ool coll &
Colonial Vessels . | —|—|]—}]—]| — |—|—]—]—]—]—] — |-—|— pre as =a re ait ee | fay (eat ee = = fol} |) = —
a County of Bourke . . . | 242) 384) 304) 387] 3355| 187] 23] 276| 336) 342| 327] 1485] 67| 5 3571| 126¢| -1s72| 323] 3987| 333| 61| 98| so} 255] 2520] 58] 2] 1) 9 2898
as «Grant . . . .| 13/ 24) 22) 45! 445/47] 2] 16) 92| 16) 27] 105] 6] — Te) FGq| ce) “al veal ail all a al cael “a Be] al] ol) = 92
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APPENDIX. 443

X V.
RETURN OF THE VALUE OF IMPORTS, FROM THE YEAR 1826 to 1840,
INCLUSIVELY.

| VALUE,
After de-
From ducting
From, |) From |q- iy pete | Rom | From | From Imports
year.| Great | British ea | NeW lPisheries, United | Foreign | Total. jp x.
Britain. Colonies. Tolenae Zealand. ‘States. | States. Tea
and the
Fisheries.

coe. sf L£ £ £ £ £ £ £

1826 | 280,000) 30,000 50,000 | 360,000

1827 | 253,975, 63,220
1828 | 399,892 125,862
1829 | 423.463) 135,486
1830| 268,935} 60,356
1831] 241,989! 68,804
1832] 409,344] 47,895
11833] 434,220] 61,662
1834| 669,663} 124,570 bik
1835 | 707,133] 144,824 35,542 | 141,823 13,902] 70,161 |1,114,805| 937,400
(1836 | 794,422) 220,254 32,155 | 103,575 |22,739 | 62,289 |1,237,406|1,101,676
11837} 807,264] 257,427 | 1,764 | 42,886 | 80,441 | 9,777] 97,932 |1,297,491|1,174,164
1838 |1,102,127| 255,975 | 5,548 | 53,943 | 71,506 | 8,066 | 82,112 /1,579,277|1,453,828
1839 |1,251,969| 504,828 | 3,863 | 71,709 | 186,212 |23,093 | 194,697 |2.236,371)1,978,450
1840 |2,200,305| 376,954 | 1,348 | 54,192 | 104,895 |24,164 | 252,331 |3,014,189/2,855,102

45,129 | 362,324
44,246 | 570,000
42.055 | 601,004
91,189 | 420,480

179,359 | 490,152

147,381 | 604,620

218,090 | 713,972

197,757 | 991,990

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RETURN OF THE VALUE OF EXPORTS, FROM THE YEAR 1826 to 1840,

INCLUSIVELY.
=
To
3 ” To To To
eae a Great To British South Bie Eiko United | Foreign TOTAL 3
ritain, Colonies. Sea |Fisheries. : VALUE.

pares: Zealand. States. | States.
Islands. |
ee £ & £ é | s5 £ gi |
1826 | 101,314 iso 3,551 106,600.
881 76,314 |
1828 84,008 4,845 197 90,050

1829 | 146,283 12,692
1830 | 120,559 15,597
1831 | 211,138 60,354
1832 | 252,106 63,934
1833 | 269,508 67,344
1834 | 400,738 | 128211 — — 58,691 | 587,640
1835 | 496,345 83,108 | 2 39,984 | 38445 | 18594 | 3,011 | 682,193
1836 | 513,976 | 136596 | 9 36,184 | 35,918 | 13,697 | 2,625 | 748,624
1837 | 518,951 | 118,447 485 | 39,528] 54,4384 | 10,617 | 17,592 | 760,054
1838 | 583,154 | 113,716 | 7,137 | 46,924 | 33,988 | 11,324 | 6,525 | 802,768
| 1839 | 597,100 | 194,684 | 1,347 | 95,173] 34,729 | 18,568 | 7,175 | 948,776
| 1840 | 792,494 | 304,724 | 6,621 | 215,486 | 27,864 | 27,885 | 24,618 |1,399,692

——

9.741 | 161,716
93503 | 159,659.
52,676 | 324,168
68,304 | 384,344
57,949 | 394,801

~)

an
NGRys}
CO

1827 | 70,507 4,926
|

444 APPENDIX.

XVI.

RETURN OF LIVE-STOCK IMPORTED INTO NEW SOUTH WALES, IN EACH YEAR, FROM
1828 to 1840.

DESCRIPTION OF STOCK. |
YEAR. Horses. | oes aes Horned Cattle. sue ov nee ae Sheep. |
Number. | Number. Number. Number. | Number. | Number.
|
1828 — 132 — — — 3,443
1829 iat 16 = = es 2915 |
1830 = 12 — — — 105 |
1831 | — Not stated — _ — 66
1832 = = —_ 36 = aus
1833 — — — — — — |
1834 6 — _— — 62 ==
1835 ik — — — 137 —
1836 | 8 — 4 — 449 =
1837 | 92 — 97 — 307 55,208
1838 185 i 74 oe 192 9,822 |
1839 652 | — 135 — 359 17,567
1840 1,008 — 244 — 252 19,958
| Hogs. |

RETURN OF VESSELS BUILT AND REGISTERED IN THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH
WALES, FROM THE YEAR 1822 To 1840, INCLUSIVELY.

|
VESSELS BUILT. VESSELS REGISTERED,
| YEAR.
Number. Tons. Number. Tons.

3 163 3 163

3 182 3 182
pe Rie fe
2 119
12 654 19 1,634
9 434 19 1,732
6 162 13 478
7 462 — 5 428
3 78 25 ie a
5 112 38 3,224
5 220 21 2,143
6 393 29 2,655
9 376 19 1,852
7 303 a1 2,267
9 301 39 4,560
17 760 36 3,602
20 808 Al 6,229
ii 763 75 10,668
17 1196 94 12,153

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APPENDIX. 447

XOVCT Id.

RETURN OF WOOL EXPORTED FROM THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES, FROM
1822 to 1840.

VALUE, VALUE,

As entered in As entered in
YEAR. QUANTITY.) \¢har etna of YEAR, QUANTITY. | the Returns of
Exports. Exports.
Ibs. L£ Ibs. £
1822 172,880 Not known 1832 1,515,156 73,059
1823 -| 198,240 — 1833 1,734,203 103,692
1824 275,560 — 1834 2,246,933 213,628
1825 411,600 — 1835 3,893,927 299,587
1826 552,960 48,384 1836 3,693,241 369,324
1827 407,116 24,306 1837 4,448,796 332,166
1828 834,343 40,851 1838 9,749,376 405,977
1829 1,005,333 63,555 1839 7,213,584 442,504
1830 899,750 34,907 1840 8,610,775 566,112
1831 1,401,284 75,979

RETURN OF AMOUNT OF AUCTION DUTY, AT 14 PER CENT., PAID INTO THE COLO-
NIAL TREASURY, FROM 1824 To 1840, INCLUSIVELY.

——_—

YEAR. AMOUNT OF DUTY. YEAR. AMOUNT OF DUTY. |
L£ 8. d. £ S. d. |
1824 328 Sane i 1833 1,540 9 8
1825 555 3 1 1834 2.327 6 | 10
| 1826 516 7 14 1835 | 3.185 16 Q
1827 682 iG) ates 1836 4,697 11
: 1828 1,325 10 14 1837 4,820 3 ie 1H
1829 1,228 7 13 1838 6,137 10 1
1830 1,423 18 33 1839 7,700 16 5
1831 1,353 y At 1840 18,701 2! FF 10
1832 1,415 15 | 103
| “ee | ne cles |e
TOTAL | £92,889 | 12 43 toTaL |£49,060 10 4

448 APPENDIX.

X IX.

RETURN OF THE AMOUNTS RECEIVED FROM THE SALE OF CROWN LANDS, FROM
1824 to 1840, IncLUSIVELY.

| |
YEAR. AMOUNT. YEAR. AMOUNT. |

| £ 8 d £ go eee
i
1824 71 Srlg alan 94 1833 24,956 1 1 4

1825 HO48 1) 14 10 1834 41,844 9 1

1826 2,596 2 6 1835 80,784 14 | 6

1827 POA | Al 7 1836 126.458>|._ 16° 574.0

1828 5,004 | 19 2 1837 120,427 0 daleetD

1829 DOW Old 0 1838 116/324) “18 a

1830 943 5 10 1839 152,962 165. §4

1831 2,597 1 10 1840 316,626 TU meee

1832 12,509 13 10
| TOTAL 34,465 2 4s TOTAL 980,385 3 9
bee

ESTIMATED QUANTITY OF LAND IN CULTIVATION, EXCLUSIVE OF GARDENS AND
ORCHARDS, ON 3lsT DECEMBER, 1840.

CROPS. !

Ww
WHEAT.| MAIZE.| BARLEY. | OATS. | RYE. MILLET. | POTATOES. TOBACCO. Oat

GRASSES.
Acres. | Acres.| Acres. |Acres.| Acres. | Acres. Acres, Acres. Acres.

|
74,133 24,966 5,144 | 5,453| 609 | 115 | 29,594 381 12,721
PRODUCE.

SOWN
WHEAT. | MAIZE. | BARLEY. | OATS. RYE. | MILLET. | POTATOES. | TOBACCO. |gRassEs

(HAY.)

ee |
| es | eS EEE ee ee

| ee ee Se a ee

|
1,116,814. 777,947 | 105,389 | 66,020 8,863 3,338 {11,050} 15 | 215 | — /21,329

| i |

APPENDIX. 449

X XI.

U.S. Ship Peacock,
Sydney Cove, New South Wales,
December 21st, 1839.
Sir,—

Having thoroughly examined this ship at different times, and par-
ticularly at this place, I would respectfully submit the following report
of her condition. First, that the sheer-streak is quite rotten in many
places, as well as the gun and berth-deck water-ways; and from the
frequent calking the gun and spar-decks have undergone, they have
become much worn, and quite leaky, particularly the spar-deck ; also,
the stanchions ‘supporting the bulwark on the spar-deck are very much
decayed, and with the exception of three or four of them, are unsafe,
and not able to support the rail and boats attached to it, under any
thing more than ordinary circumstances.

I am, sir, yours respectfully,
(Signed) Jonas Dist,

Wituam L. Hupson, Esa., Carpenter,
Commanding U. S. Ship Peacock.

U. S. Ship Peacock,
Sydney, New South Wales,

December 22d, 1839.
Sir,—

I have delayed reporting in writing the defective state of the Pea-
cock until the present time, with a full knowledge it would have been
utterly impossible to have completed the necessary repairs at this port
in sufficient time for our Antarctic cruise. I feel, too, that the govern-
ment and the whole country are anticipating results from that quarter,
and are under the full belief that all the ships composing this squadron
were thoroughly overhauled, and amply prepared to encounter every
kind of weather. I have no wish at present to undeceive them, but
feel it my duty to state to you on the present occasion, that the Pea-
cock’s sheer-streak, to which the channels are bolted and ports hung,
is perfectly decayed, fore and aft, and that all the stanchions of the
upper-deck bulwarks, are either rotten, or in an advanced state of
decay. Against these defects, however, I feel it my duty to contend,
without anticipating any thing but favourable results, but at the same
time prepared for the worst that may occur.

Yours, respectfully,
(Signed) Ww. L. Hupson.

Captain Cuarxes WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
2N

450 APPENDIX.

xX: X TI.
RETURN OF TIMBER EXPORTED, FROM THE YEAR 1830 To 1840,
INCLUSIVELY.
| Blue G Pi d ej
ue Gum, Pine, an .
Cedar. Sten Tinbart Treenails.
YEAR. UR ee ee fod A oe. seg ih VALUE.
Quantity. Quantity. Number.
| ES
1830 368,830 179,403 93,959 5,218
1831 580,393 416,857 3 24,316 8,401
1832 418,930 = 233,653 om 186,831 6,132
1833 1,086,437 = 147,170 | = 328,503 13,153
1834 899,492 | _ 30,065 } 5 212,467 7,941
1835 907,921 >-S 145,628 | 178,969 10,489
1836 1,409,467 | {106 Logs 3,778 | &, 35,094 14,611
1837 116,828] 3 18,828 | 62,989 14,463
1838 699,066 | & 9,000 73,450 6,382
1839 729,001 | 823 Deals, 15 Logs 40,588 8815
1840 1,250,786 J , 151,500 4,350 20,971

’ Superficial Feet.

RETURN OF OIL, ETC., EXPORTED, FROM THE YEAR 1830 To 1840,
INCLUSIVELY.

| YEAR.

1]
Sperm Whale./Black Whale.| Whalebone. | Seal Skins.
pe eS ee" selling, acy saat 230: VALUE.
| Tuns. Tuns. Tons. | Cwt. No.
£
1830 983 98 9 16 9,720 59,471
1831 1,571 505 28 5 4,424 95,969
1832 2,491 695 43 6 1,415 147,409
1833 3,048 418 _ 1,890 146,855
1834 2,760 975 43 15 890 157,334
1835 2,898 1,159 112 — 641 180,349
1836 1,682 1,149 79 — 386 140,220
1837 2,959 1,565 77 8 107 183,122
1838 1690 3,055 174 — 3 Cases 197,644 |!
1839 1,578 1,229 134 14 7Cases| 172,315
1840 1,854 4,297 250 —_ 474 224,144

APPENDIX. 45]

X XITL.

STATEMENT OF THE INTRODUCTION AND PROGRESS OF THE BREED OF FINE
WOOLLED SHEEP IN NEW SOUTH WALES, DELIVERED AT THE RIGHT HON
LORD HOBART’S OFFICE, 26TH suLy, 1803.

Tue samples of wool brought from New South Wales having ex-
cited the particular attention of the merchants and principal English
manufacturers, Captain M’Arthur considers it his duty respectfully
to represent to His Majesty’s ministers, that he has found, from an
experience of many years, the climate of New South Wales is pecu-
liarly adapted to the increase of fine-woolled sheep; and that, from
the unlimited extent of luxuriant pastures with which that country
abounds, millions of those valuable animals may be raised in a few
years, with but little other expense than the hire of a few shepherds.

The specimens of wool that Captain M’Arthur has with him, have
been inspected by the best judges of wool in this kingdom; and they
are of opinion that it possesses a softness superior to many of the
wools of Spain; and that it certainly is equal, in every valuable
property, to the very best that is to be obtained from thence.

The sheep producing this fine wool are of the Spanish kind, sent
originally from Holland to the Cape of Good Hope, and taken from
thence to Port Jackson.

Captain M’Arthur being persuaded that the propagation of those
animals would be of the utmost consequence to this country, procured,
in 1797, three rams and five ewes; and he has since had the satisfac-
tion to see them rapidly increase, their fleeces augment in weight, and
the wool very visibly improve in quality. When Captain M’Arthur
left Port Jackson in 1801, the heaviest fleece that had then been shorn
weighed only three pounds and a half; but he has received reports of
1802, from which he learns that the fleeces of his sheep were increased
to five pounds each ;* and that the wool is finer and softer than the ©
wool of the preceding year. The fleece of one of the sheep originally
imported from the Cape of Good Hope, has been valued here at four
shillings and sixpence per pound; and a fleece of the same kind bred
in New South Wales is estimated at six shillings a pound.

Being once in possession of this valuable breed, and having ascer-
tained that they improved in that climate, he became anxious to ex-

* Inthe grease. The average weight of the fleeces of fine-woolled sheep in New South
Wales, washed, is two and a half pounds.

452 APPENDIX.

tend them as much as possible; he therefore crossed all the mixed-
breed ewes of which his flocks were composed, with Spanish rams.
The lambs produced from this cross were much improved ; but when
they were again crossed, the change far exceeded his most sanguine
expectations. In four crosses, he is of opinion, no distinction will be
perceptible between the pure and the mixed breed. As a proof of the
extraordinary and rapid improvement of his flocks, Captain M’ Arthur
has exhibited the fleece of a coarse-woolled ewe, that has been valued
at ninepence a pound; and the fleece of her lamb, begotten by a
Spanish ram, which is allowed to be worth three shillings a pound.

Captain M’Arthur has now about four thousand sheep, amongst
which there are no rams but of the Spanish breed. He calculates that
they will, with proper care, double themselves every two years and a
half; and that in twenty years they will be so increased as to produce
as much fine wool as is now imported from Spain and other countries,
at an annual expense of £1,800,000 sterling. To make the principle
perfectly plain upon which Captain M’Arthur founds this expectation,
he begs to state, that half his flock has been raised from thirty ewes
purchased in 1798, out of a ship from India, and from about eight or
ten Spanish and Irish sheep purchased since. The other half of his
flock were obtained in 1801, by purchases from an officer who had
raised them in the same time, and from about the same number of
ewes that Captain M’Arthur commenced with. This statement proves
that the sheep have hitherto multiplied more rapidly than it is calcu-
lated they will do in future; but this is attributed to the first ewes
being of a more prolific kind than the Spanish sheep are found to be ;
for since Captain M’Arthur has directed his attention to that breed
he has observed the ewes do not so often produce double lambs.

As a further confirmation of the principle of increase that Captain
M’Arthur has endeavoured to establish, and which he is positive
time will prove to be correct, he would refer to the general returns
transmitted from New South Wales. In 1796, (since when not one
hundred sheep have been imported,) one thousand five hundred and
thirty-one were returned as the public and private stock of the colony.
In 1801, six thousand seven hundred and fifty-seven were returned ;
and although between those periods all the males have been killed as
soon as they became fit, yet there is a surplus over the calculation of
six hundred and thirty-three.

Captain M’Arthur is so convinced of the practicability of supplying
this country with any quantity of fine wool it may require, that he is
earnestly solicitous to prosecute this, as it appears to him, important
object; and on his return to New South Wales, to devote his whole

APPENDIX. 453

attention to accelerate its complete attainment. All the risk attendant
on the undertaking he will cheerfully bear ; he will require no pecuniary
aid, and all the encouragement he humbly solicits, is the protection
of government, permission to occupy a sufficient tract of unoccupied
lands to feed his flocks, and the indulgence of selecting from amongst
the convicts, such men for shepherds, as may, from their previous
occupations, know something of the business.

(Signed) Joun M’Arruvr.
London, 26th July, 1803.

XXIV.

U.S. Flag-Ship Vincennes,
New Zealand, Bay of Islands, April 5th, 1840.
My pear Sir,—

I need not tell you how much I feel interested in your cruise. From
the interest you took in the outfit of our expedition, I am sure you. well
know the interest it excites, and how much this feeling is heightened
by a knowledge on my part of what you have undertaken, and have
to go through. This prompts me to a desire to be useful to you if
possible, and to give you my experience of the last season among the
ice, whither you are bound. |

Your cruise will be an arduous one, no matter how you may be
enlightened on your course; but you have so much knowledge of the
ice, and the manner of treating it, that it appears almost presumptuous
in me to sit down to give you any hints relative to it. But, believing
as I do, that the ice of the Antarctic is of a totally different character
from that of the Arctic, I venture to offer you a few hints that may be
useful to you in your undertaking; and although my instructions are
binding upon me relative to discoveries, I am nevertheless aware that
I am acting as my government would order, if they could have anti-
cipated the case, knowing how deeply it feels the liberal assistance and
great interest evinced by all the societies and distinguished men of
Great Britain, to promote and aid this, our first undertaking in the
great cause of science and usefulness; and I must add the pleasure it
gives to me personally, to be able to return, though in a small degree,
the great obligation I myself feel under to you, and many others, the
promoters of your undertaking. |

Winos.—The winds for the first fortnight of our time, to the east-
ward of longitude 140° E., were from the northward and westward.
light generally, accompanied occasionally with clear weather for hours,
and again with dense fogs of short duration, with a long swell from
the same quarter.

VOL. Il. 2N2 o7

454 APPENDIX.

After passing longitude 140° E., or to the westward of it, we ex
perienced fine weather, with southeast winds and occasional snow-
squalls, lasting but ten or fifteen minutes, and a dry healthy atmo-
sphere.

The barometer, during our stay on the coast, was always indicative
of wind by its depression, and was a true guide. Its mean standing
was 28 in. The temperature surprised me: we seldom, if ever, had
it-above 30°, even in the sun at mid-day, and I do not think that three
times it was found above 35°.

Gales come on very suddenly, and are always attended with snow,
sleet, and thick fogs, rendering it extremely hazardous; for one must
be found, when they do come, more or less surrounded. with ice-
islands. ‘They sometimes last for thirty-six hours. After they set in,
you may calculate that they will blow strong for at least half that
time. The nearer you are to the land, the more violent they are,
though not of such long duration. Fine weather usually precedes
them, and we found them to happen and the weather to be more
changeable near the full and change, although I am no believer in the
lunar influences upon the weather.

Currents.—During the whole of our stay along the icy coast, we
found no perceptible current by the reckoning and current log. During
a gale of wind I was induced to believe that some existed, from the
short sea that was formed, thinking there was more than was to be
expected. Zides on such an extent of coast there undoubtedly mus!
be, but of little strength, or we should have perceived them.

In many of the icy bays we were stationary for a sufficient time to
perceive them if they had been of any magnitude, and where the
current was repeatedly tried.

The winds have their effect upon the loose drift-ice, or that which is
detached from the icy barrier. Owing to a change of wind from
southeast to north, with a fresh breeze, the Peacock became embayed,
and the ice forced in upon her, which brought about the accident.
The northerly winds are always accompanied with a heavy swell, and
her escape is attributable to a rare exercise of good seamanship and
perseverance. If Captain Hudson’s ship had been as strong as adamant
itself, he is of opinion she would have been ground to atoms by a longer
exposure; her stem was abraded to within an inch and a half of the
wood-ends. :

There are places in which the barrier is within the floe-ice severa
miles. I enclose you the mean temperature during the summer
months.

You will see there is but little chance of the ice melting or disap-

APPENDIX. 455

pearing, as from accounts frequently takes place in the Arctic Ocean.
Your time, being unlimited, will allow you to wait some days in a
situation to make experiments.

I frequently found myself so closely beset that I thought it next to
impossible to escape, and if the wind had not been extremely constant
in its direction, I should have been shut up or much injured ; as it
was, I escaped with scarcely a scratch, although we took some heavy
thumps.

The charts will show you the tracks and state of the ice. It was
constructed as I went on, and the ice-islands laid down by carefully-
kept diagrams by the officer of the deck during his watch. This I
found gave me more confidence in proceeding, and facilities in case of
having to return.

Maenetic Porze.—I consider we have approached very near to the
pole. Our dip was 87° 30’ S., and the compasses on the ice very
sluggish; this was in longitude 147° 30’ E., and latitude 67° 04’ S.
Our variation, as accurately as it could be observed on the ice, we
made 12° 30’ E. It was difficult to get a good observation, on account
of the sluggishness of our compasses. About.one hundred miles to the
westward, we crossed the magnetic meridian.

The pole, without giving you accurate deductions, I think my obser-
vations will place in about latitude 70° S., and longitude 140° E.

On the meridian of 140° E., you will find a small bay, partly formed
by ice-islands and rocks, which I have named Piner’s Bay, and | think
among the rocks you may find a snug little harbour. I was driven
out of the bay by a gale of wind; sounding about one and a half
miles from the shore in thirty fathoms. The icebergs being aground,
form good shelters ; but I was too much exposed to venture to remain,
and my object was to trace the land and the icy barrier, which I have
done, as you will see it laid down on my chart.

We had delightful and clear weather ten days or a fortnight along
the coast, with the wind at from southeast to south-southwest; the two
latter points particularly. The drift-ice is in large pieces, so large as
to give a ship an awkward thump; but when I found it tolerably open
I have run through it to get to clear water, and in hopes of making the
land, but our progress was soon stopped by the firm barrier, impene-
trable, through which there is no passing.

I am of opinion that there is little movement of the ice during the
season. Strong gales may change its position a trifle, but I think not
materially.

The only prospect of nearing the land is through a sea well studded
with large icebergs, nearly thirty or forty miles in width; and ]

456 APPENDIX.

generally found that we got nearer to the shore in those places than
elsewhere. One thing I must tell you, as respects filling your water:
you will sometimes find a pond of delicious water on the top of an old
iceberg, frozen over, but on cutting through it you will see a supply
sufficient for a navy. It will save you fuel, and discomfort and cold
to you, your vessels, and their crews.

I was very fortunate in the weather the latter part of the time; and
indeed altogether I was scarcely a day without some observation,
(except during the gales, of which we had three, occupying about
eight days,) and generally half a dozen.

My time for six weeks was passed on deck, and having all day-
light, I of course had constant employment, and with the many
assistants, | could make rapid progress; and you will find that no
opportunity ought to be lost in this navigation, if one is to do any
thing. One’s ship is in constant danger, and the Vincennes, a first-
class sloop of seven hundred and eighty tons, it requires all the fore-
sight and activity one is possessed of to look-out for her.

T eonsider that I have had a most providential escape; and if this
ship had not been enabled to “do every thing but talk,” I should not
have been where I now am; but she had inspired me with so much
confidence, among the coral reefs last summer, that I could put full
faith in her doing her duty. I must refer you to the chart, on which I
have noted remarks, variations, &c.

I should have mentioned, that in 1888 and 1839 I went south in
the brig Porpoise, in order to trace Palmer’s Land on its eastern side,
(but too late for any trial to reach high latitudes,) and hoping that the
lateness of the season would enable me to run some distance along it.
I got within three miles of the coast, and saw it trending to the south-
southeast about thirty miles; but it was so blocked up with ice as to
render it impossible to get through. I have little doubt myself, in
favourable seasons, Weddell’s track may be followed, notwithstanding
what the Frenchman may say, there being no land to which the ice is
attached; and that the ice in those parts changes very much, the
currents being exceedingly strong, as I myself witnessed. 1 could not
afford the time to be frozen up, as my other duties were and are
paramount to passing the winter in such a situation. But you are
differently situated, and I should advise you, by all means, to try to

penetrate between longitude 35° and 45° W.
. T am, gece

Cuartes WILKEs,

Commanding Exploring Expedition
To Captain James C. Ross,
Commanding H. B. M. Ships Erebus and Terror.

APPENDIX. 457

XX V.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Sydney Cove, Dec. 23d, 1839.
Sir,—

The following instructions will claim your aa attention
during our contemplated Antarctic cruise.

Ist. It cannot be too strongly impressed upon you the necessity to
use every means in your power to avoid a separation, as the lives of
those entrusted to your particular care, and those comprising the
squadron, may be jeoparded by it.

2d. The most careful attention must be given by you to the health
and comfort of your crew, and the most economical care and expen-
diture of your stores and provisions. The greatest attention to the
cleanliness and airing of the vessels, and the drying of the clothes and
bedding to avoid all dampness and foul air, are likewise essential.

In the event of your being frozen up or detained by the ice, your
responsibilities will be great, and every precaution must be taken to
insure your safety. You may rest assured that every exertion will be
made to relieve you at the earliest possible day.

I now give you a short sketch of what I deem to be the principal
object of our cruise towards the Antarctic Circle: first, to reach as
high a southern latitude as can be attained, without hazarding the
safety of your vessel and crew; and last, to make all the observations
that my former instructions have pointed out, including the dip and
intensity.

In the event of parting company, you will rendezvous, first, at
Macquarie Island, if it should occur before reaching its latitude, where
you will remain forty-eight hours, off and on; thence proceed to the
Emerald Isle, waiting on and off thirty-six hours, and from thence to
the south as far as the ice will permit, and continue cruising along its
borders, between the longitude of 160° E. and 105° E., until the 1st
of March, at which period it is deemed the season will become too
far advanced to proceed south with any chance of success.

On your return, you will proceed to the Bay of Islands, New
Zealand, where you will await my arrival, or find orders with the
American consul, resident there.

If the Lord Auckland Group should lay in your path on your return,
you will find a secure harbour in that of Sarah’s Bosom, in latitude
50° 38’ S., longitude 166° 16’ E.

On your return, you will vary your route as much as possible, or as
the weather and state of your vessel will permit.

458 APPENDIX.

In case you should not be able to reach the Bay of Islands, prior to
the 25th of March, you will thence make for the island of Tonga-
taboo, Friendly Group, where you will find me or orders directing
your further movements. (If no intelligence before the 15th of April,
you will then proceed to the Feejee Group of Islands, Harbour of
Takanova, or Sandalwood Bay, and there continue to employ your-
self making the various surveys directed in the copy of the instruc-
tions.)

Leave letters where you may stop, and place signal No. 2 on a
conspicuous spot; No. 1 will represent the Vincennes, No. 3 the
Porpoise, and No. 4 the Flying-Fish.

In the event of your penetrating the ice, with the prospect of a
clear sea before you, you will steer to the westward, bearing in mind
that the only prospect of again clearing it is on the route you first
followed, or that supposed to have been taken by Weddell, between
the longitude of 35° and 49° W.

On clearing it, you will proceed to carry out the foregoing instruc-
tions, to make the appointed rendezvous with the least possible delay.

(It is my intention, if [ am not detained by ice, to reach the harbour
of Sandalwood Bay, in the Feejee Group, in April, and after exami-
ning those islands, to proceed to the Sandwich Islands for provisions
early in July. I state this that you may govern yourself accordingly,
in the event of your not being able to meet me or the Peacock at any
of the rendezvous pointed out. Should you fall in with the Peacock,
Captain Hudson will give you the necessary instructions.)

I am, very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) Cuartes WILKEs,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

The foregoing instructions were sent to Captain Hudson. To
Lieutenants-Commandant Ringgold and Pinkney, without the clause
in parenthesis.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,
At Sea, December 29th, 1839.
SIR,—

The following observations and duties will be attended to on board
the Flying-Fish, under your command, during her present cruise to
the Antarctic Ocean:

Ist. You will keep a daily journal of every occurrence of interest.

2d. Your route will be daily laid down upon the skeleton chart;

APPENDIX. 459

also, the position of all land, islands of ice, &c., which you may fall in
with. Astronomical bearings will be taken when the weather will permit.

3d. You will note in your journal the variation of the compass, daily,
sketches of refractions, and appearances of ice-islands and formations.

4th. You will obtain, if possible, and preserve any stones, specimens
of earth, &c., from the ice, and note the appearances of any halos,
aurora australis, &c.

5th. The observations, &c., required in the General Order of the 25th
August, 1838, will be attended to, when practicable, excepting those of
the barometer and hygrometer, and the observations of the masthead.

I am, very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) Cuarites WILKEs,

To Lieut. Com. PINKNEY, Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U.S. Schooner Flying-Fish.

SX VT.

BAROMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS DURING THE GALES OF WIND EXPERIENCED BY
U. S. SHIP VINCENNES, JAN. 28TH, 29TH, 30TH, 31st, anp FEB. Ist AND 2p.

== so-= =

DATE. HOUR. BAROMETER, REMARKS.
1840. A.M, | P. M.
JAN, 28TH, 3 29-50 in, | Light snow; S. E. by S. fresh. |
“ 9 29-40 Wind fresh from 8. E. by S., cloudy.
“ 3 29-24 Wind quite fresh 8S. E. by S., light snow. |
“ 29-10 Wind blowing a gale from S, E., snow. |
“ 10 30 28-90 |
297m, | 130 28-79 |
“ 2 30 28-68 |
“ 3 28-68 |
« 4 28-59
“ 4 45 28:57 |
ss 6 28:57 Weather was pleasant the remainder of |
rt 9 28-68 29th.
“ 10 28-67 |
6 11 28°78 |
30TH, 9 29-16 |
wc 11 29-10 At 3 a.m. of the 30th, the Barometer rose |
v6 12 29-04 to 29-16 in., and remained at that point
ws 1 29-00 several hours.
“ 2 28-98
w“ 3 28-91
& 4 28-90
“ 5 28-90
“ 6 28-88
ws 7 28-82
“ 8 28-80
“ 9 28-80
“ 10 28-76
“ 11 28-76

460 APPENDIX.

X X V I.—ConrtinveEp.

DATE, HOUR. BAROMETER, HOUR. | BAROMETER,
|
1840, A. M. P, M |
JAN. 31st, | 1 28-72 in. re 28-60 in.
“ 2 28-72 OU re 28-60
“ 3 28-73 Bal 28-60
& 4 28:70 4 28-60
“ 5 28-70 5 28-60
& 6 6 28:60
ee 7 30 28-68 7 28-60
o 8 8 28°66
“ 9 28:62 9 28-70
ff 10 28-60 10 28-70
e 11 28-60 11 28-70
a 12 28-60 12 28-70
FEB. Ist, 2 28-72
cr 3 28:73 3 28-90
& 4 28-73
& 5 28-73
“ 9 28-76 9 29-00
FEB, 2p, 3 29-12 2 29-3]
«“ 9 29-25 3 29-31
& 1] 29-30 7 29-35
& 12 29:32 9 29-37
6 10 30 29-300
«“ 12 pe geo oO)
i
XX VII.
U. S. Ship Vincennes,
At Sea, January 31st, 1840.
Sir,—

It becomes my duty, in consequence of the report of the assistant-
surgeons of this ship (a copy of which is enclosed), relative to the
health and condition of the crew of this ship, to restore you to duty
for their benefit, and to obtain all the medical advice in my power to
enable me to carry out the instructions of the government.

You will, after due examination and consideration, relative to the
health and condition of the crew, report to me in writing, your
opinion in regard to the same.

I am, very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,

(Signed) Cuaries WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
Dr. Epwarp Gitcurist,
Acting Surgeon, Vincennes.

APPENDIX. 461

U.S. Ship Vincennes,
At Sea, January 31st, 1840.
Sir,—

I have received your letter of this date, restoring me to duty,
enclosing a report of the assistant-surgeons of this ship, and directing
me after due examination and consultation relative to the health and
condition of the crew, to report to you in writing my ee in
regard to the same.

In obedience to that order, I respectfully report that, in my opinion,
the health of the crew is materially affected by the severe fatigue,
want of sleep, and exposure to the weather, to which they have lately
been subjected; that a continuance of these hardships, even for a very
short period, will entirely disqualify a great number of men for their
duty ; and that the necessary attention to the health of the crew, and
their future efficiency and usefulness, demand the immediate return of

the ship to a mild climate.
I am, very respectfully,

Epwarp Givcurist,
Cartes WiLxEs, Esa., Acting Surgeon.
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

U.S. Ship Vincennes,
At Sea, January 31st, 1840.
Sr,—

In answer to your letter of this date, enclosing the report of the
medical officers on the present state of the health of the crew, and
requesting the opinion of the ward-room officers, as to the expediency
of pushing farther south under the present circumstances, we would
state, that, in our opinion, it would be as well to hold on until to-
morrow at meridian, in order, should the weather then prove more
favourable, to attempt making the recently discovered land at another
point; but that on a material increase of the sick-list, or continuance
of the present bad weather beyond the above period, we should run to
the northward... We are, very respectfully,

Your obedient servants,
(Signed) Overton Carr,
First. Lieutenant.
A. Luptow Casr,

JosrpH A. UnpErwoop,
Lieutenants,

Epuunp H. Dr Haven.
Samvuet R. Knox,
To Cuartes Wixxzs, Esa., Acting Masters
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
VOL. II. 20 58

462 APPENDIX.

U.S. Ship Vincennes,
At Sea, January 31st, 1840.
Sir,— ;

In answer to your communication of to-day, addressed to the ward-
room officers, calling upon them for their opinion with regard to the
practicability of our prosecuting the desirable researches in these
latitudes, I am of opinion, with due regard to the report of the
medical officers, which you have submitted for our perusal, that it is
very desirable to ascertain the extent of the recently discovered land,
by another attempt to the westward; provided, of course, this object
can be attained without further endangering the health of the crew.

Very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) James Atpen.

Cuares WILKEs, Esa.,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,
At Sea, January 31st, 1840.

Sir,—

In answer to your letter, with the report of the medical officers
enclosed, requesting the opinion of the ward-room officers of this ship,
as to the expediency under the present circumstances of prosecuting
our discoveries south at this time, I beg leave to state, that in my
opinion the report of all the medical officers of the ship, as to the
reduced condition of the crew, would be a sufficient reason for putting
back; and, in addition, I would state other reasons which occur to me.

We have been almost surrounded with drift-ice and ice-islands for
the last twenty-three days, and coasting along the barrier of field-ice,
which has rendered it impossible to penetrate further south in this
vicinity; and, although gratifying it would be to land upon the
Antarctic Continent, I am not aware that any advantages to be
derived from it would be commensurate for the dangers it would be
necessary to incur; and if the discovery of new land in these regions
is important, I consider it equally so that every precaution be taken to
communicate the same to others.

Farther, in my opinion, the continuance of the severe gale which
we have encountered for the last five days, accompanied with sleet,
hail, and snow, and the necessity of keeping all hands on the watch,
owing to the thick weather, &c., and difficulty of navigating among
ice, makes it not only most dangerous, but, if necessary to be con-
tinued in, will render the watch officers and crew unfit for the arduous

APPENDIX. 463

duties now and hereafter required of them, at a time when the ship
and rigging are enveloped in ice.

In fact, I am of opinion, that the future operations should not be
hazarded by encountering dangers and risks to be run, under all the
circumstances, greater than I have ever encountered in the course of
seven years’ sea service.

In expressing, however, finally and respectfully, my opinions, I most
cheerfully yield to those of more experience and skill, if they do not

concur with mine.
| I am, sir, very respectfully,

Your obedient servant,

(Signed) RR. R. Watopron,
Purser U.S. Navy.

Cuar_es WILEEs, Esa.,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

U.S. Ship Vincennes,
: At Sea, January 31st, 1840.
Sir,

In reply to your communication of this date, addressed to the ward-
room officers of this ship, I would state, that I think that it would be
advisable to remain in this vicinity at least two days longer, and if
possible, get farther information respecting the recently discovered
land. At the expiration of the above mentioned time, if the stormy
weather we have experienced should continue, or the number of sick
be increased, I think it would be expedient to bear up to the north-
ward. In expressing this opinion, I am sensible of the hardship and
danger to which the officers and men are exposed, but I am also pre-
pared to share the same with them in any manner you may dictate.

Respectfully, yours,
(Signed) Jarep Exutort.

Cuar_es WILKEs, Esa.,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

464. APPENDIX.

XXVITI.

BAROMETER AND DAILY MEAN OF TEMPERATURE OF AIR AND WATER, DURING
THE CRUISE OF THE U. S. SHIP VINCENNES, NEAR THE ANTARCTIC CIRCLE, IN
JANUARY AND FEBRUARY, 1840.

DATE. BAROM. AIR. WATER. DATE. BAROM. AIR. WATER,
gan.11 29-36 in. | 3245 31-299 |res.1 | 28:85 in.| 30-759 99-50°
12 28:97 32-45 30-00 9g 29-26 32-45 29.41
13 28-87 32-45 30-45 3 28-74 32-04 31-33

| 14 29-17 32:37 31-74 A 28:50 32-80 32-75
| 15 | 28-87 32:95 | 31-16 5 29-23 32-58 32-62
16 28-68 33:95 | 30-50 6 29-21 31-17 32-75
17 28-84 30-95 31-20 7 29-00 31-00 31-90
18 28-87 32-52 31-75 8 29-14 32-16 31-75
19 28-77 32-48 31-26 9 29-19 32-18 31-50

| 20 | 28-91 31-70 32-04 10 29-08 31-83 31-75
| 91 29-02 34:56 31-09 11 29-08 30-12 30-00
29 29-03 25-18 30-63 12 29-15 29-00 30-03
23 29-04 26-16 30-45 13 29-08 27-75 | 30-20
24 29-15 26:37. =| = 30-75 14 29-15 25.29 29-90
25 29.22 23:04 28-45 15 29.28 27-00 30-80
26 29-06 25-69 29-00 16 29-33 26:58 30-20
27 29.29 26-40 28-91 17 29-16 28-79 30-00

| 28 | 99-31 25:91 | 28-87 18 28-91 28:58 30-00
29 28-88 28-75 | 29-00 19 28:76 30-12 30-75
30 29-00 26-04 | 28-75 20 28-97 28-00 30-62
31 2866 29-00 29-00 21 29-06 29-08 31-70
29 28:89 32.22 32-50

23 35-25 35-45

24 36-08 34-82

L |

X XIX.
[ Copy. ]
U. S. Ship Peacock,
Sydney, New South Wales,
March 3d, 1840.
Sir,—

[ have the honour to report the arrival of the Peacock at this port,
for the purpose of making such few repairs as have become necessary,
preparatory to the further prosecution of the objects of the Expedition,
and avail myself of the occasion to say, that in our recent adventures
south, we fell in with a barrier of ice in the latitude of 65° S., and

‘ longitude 159° E., and had followed its trendings as far as 67° S.,
longitude 150° E.

APPENDIX, 465

On Sunday, January 19th, while standing into a bay of ice, in lati-
tude 66° 31’ S., and longitude 153° 40’ E., we made (what we believed
to be) land to the southward and westward.

It was seen towering above and beyond some large icebergs, that
were from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet in height. We
endeavoured to work up for this land, which presented the appearance
of an immense mass of snow, apparently forming a vast amphitheatre,
with two distinct ridges or elevations throughout its extent. After
working up until midnight through detached portions of ice, we
reached the barrier at the head of the bay, and were compelled to
give up any further attempt to near it, (what we believed to be land,)
and passed out of the bay again, which was some twenty miles in
extent, through drift-ice, into a more open space for pursuing our
course to the southward and westward along the barrier.

On the 23d of January we made, beyond the barrier, which was
thickly studded with bergs and islands of ice, (what we believed it to
be,) high land, at least so far as terra firma can be distinguished where
every thing is covered with snow, and worked into a bay for a nearer
and more minute examination. The sea-water had been discoloured
for some days, but no bottom obtained by soundings; in the bay, how-
ever, it changed to a dark dull green, and gave every indication that
we were on soundings, and not far from land.

The result confirmed the appearances: we obtained bottom in three
hundred and twenty fathoms, of slate-coloured mud, and the lead
brought up with it a piece of stone, about an inch in length, of nearly
the same colour, while the lower part of the lead showed a fresh and
deep indentation, as though it had struck on a rock. Dip observations
were made on the ice with Robinson’s and Lloyd’s needles; the
former gave 86°10°, the latter 86-23°.

While ascertaining the dip, a large king-penguin was captured on
the ice, and brought to the ship; to add to our collections, in his
stomach were found thirty-two pebbles of various sizes, which ap-
peared to have been very recently obtained, and afforded additional
evidence of our immediate proximity to land.

While further pursuing the object of our search in this vicinity, on
the morning of the 24th, and endeavouring to clear some ice ahead of
us, the ship made a sternboard, and came in contact with a large
piece of ice, which carried away one of the wheel-ropes, wrenched
the neck of the rudder, and rendered it useless.

We immediately commenced working ship with the sails and ice-
anchors into a more open sea. In this we were successful for a time,

until an increase of wind, and a change in its direction, brought in
202

466 APPENDIX.

upon us masses of ice for miles in extent, which completely beset the
ship, finished the work of destruction on our rudder, and forced us into
the immediate vicinity of an ice-island some seven or eight miles
in extent, with an elevation equalling our topgallant-masthead, and its
upper portion inclining towards the ship. In this situation we furled all
but the fore-and-aft sails, and hung by our ice-anchors. Fortunately,
between us and a portion of this island, lay a larger piece of ice, one
end of which held us by the counter, until forced beyond it by the
pressing masses of ice outside, which started our anchors, and set us
stern on to the island, carrying away our spanker-boom and stern-
davits, and forcing the starboard quarter-deck bulwarks in end some
three or four inches, jamming a signal-gun hard and fast in the gang-
way, and breaking off all the bulwark stanchions on that side of the
quarter-deck. We took this occasion to cant her, with the jib, into a
narrow channel alongside the island, and with the help of other sails,
passed by a portion of it without further injury to our spars, until an
opportunity presented of forcing her into a small opening in thé ice,
with the head towards the sea.

Our rudder, which we unshipped and got in upon deck while wedged
in the ice, came in over the side in two pieces, the head and neck
entirely broken off, with the two midship pintles, and we shortly after-
wards found the upper and lower braces gone from the stern-post.

Towards midnight the sea was increasing, accompanied with snow,
with every indication of a gale from seaward; and the ice, with
which we were continually in contact, or actually jammed, more for-
midabje in character, rapidly accumulating outside of us, and forming
a compact mass. I found, as we were nearing the open sea, that we
had been carried so far to leeward by the ice, as to be in great danger
of taking up our last residence in the barrier, amongst bergs and
islands of ice. There was, therefore, no choice left but to force her
out, or grind and thump the ship to pieces in the attempt.

Aided by a kind Providence, we reached an open space on the
morning of the 25th, after having beat off the gripe of the ship, &c.,
and at meridian the carpenters had so far secured our rudder that it
was again shipped, in the two remaining braces left on the stern-post.

We were yet surrounded by ice and icebergs, in a bay some thirty
miles in extent, from which no outlet could be seen from the masthead.
At midnight, however, we found a passage, about half a mile in width,
between some bergs and field-ice.

On the morning of the 26th, having reached a partially clear sea,
and thoroughly turned over in my mind the state of the ship, with the
head of the rudder gone, hanging by two braces only, and in such a

APPENDIX. . 467

state we could hardly hope to have it answer its purpose, through the
boisterous weather ‘with which we should have to contend before
reaching the nearest port, and its utter unfitness for further cruising
amongst icebergs and near ice, through the foggy, thick weather, and
frequent snows to which those latitudes are subject, and when rapid
evolutions are often necessary, in which the rudder must perform its
part,—with the ship considerably strained, her starboard spar-deck
bulwarks gone as far as the gangway, the gripe off and stern muti-
lated, and the further fact before me, that the other vessels of the
squadron were ranging over the same longitude, with directions to
leave on the 1st of March for surveying operations in the north; that
the ship’s bottom would have to be examined, and repairs made before
leaving another port, (which would occupy, with all the facilities this
quarter of the world affords, at least four weeks,) during which time
the services of this ship would be lost in surveying the Feejee, &c., I
determined to proceed at once to Sydney, expedite as much as pos-
sible the repairs of the ship, and be ready at the earliest moment to
co-operate with the rest of the squadron.

The Vincennes was seen by us in the distance on the 19th, and the
brig Porpoise on the 23d of January.

On the night of the 7th, and morning of the 8th of February, we
had frequent and unusually brilliant displays of the aurora australis,
one of which made its first appearance in the southwest portion of the
horizon, but soon diffused its beams of light from east to west, throw-
ing them up to a concentrated point in the zenith, where they were
attended with continued quick flashes, resembling heat lightning, and
extending over about a third part of the heavens. The rays or beams
of light composing this magnificent spectacle, varied in colour from a
light orange to tints of pale red, assuming in their changes hues I
should in vain attempt to describe.

During intervals of the brightest fasnes in the zenith, however, they
lost their distinctive outlines, and mingled in the glow of bright twilight
which nearly overspread the heavens.

This exhibition was to us so perfectly unique and strongly marked
in character, as to excite the attention of those on board most indif-
ferent to such phenomena, and called forth from all, exclamations of
surprise and pleasure.

The ship’s compasses were minutely examined on this occasion, but
exhibited no symptoms of being affected by the presence of the aurora.
The motion of the ship, however, from the effect of the sea at the time,
would have rendered any change imperceptible, if the disturbing cause
had not produced an oscillation of the needle beyond four or five degrees.

468 APPENDIX.

During the aurora, a single squall of light hail passed over the ship.

After a rough and boisterous passage north, we anchored within the
Heads at Sydney, on the night of the 21st of February.

The officers and crew have all enjoyed good health, indeed, we
have been for some days past without a man on the sick-list; and it
affords me great pleasure again to bear testimony to the zeal and
efficiency of the officers and men in the performance of their various
duties.

I feel quite confident we shall have completed our repairs, and be
ready to leave Sydney, in about three weeks.

I am, sir, most respectfully,
Your obedient servant,

(Signed) Ww. L. Hupson,

Commander
To J. K. Pautpine, Esa.,
Secretary of the Navy.

U.S. Ship Peacock,
Sydney, New South Wales,
March 12th, 1840.
SiR, ——

The foregoing report was prepared for the Honourable Secretary of
the Navy, immediately after my arrival in port, but no conveyance
having offered, I take leave to address it to you as commander of the
squadron ; availing myself of the occasion to add, that we fell in with
the first ice, on our passage south, in the latitude of 61° 32’ S., longi-
tude 161° E., and made the barrier on the 15th of January, in the
latitude of 65° 53’ S., longitude 159° E., and followed its trendings as
far as 67° S., and 150° E.

Our compasses were at the time exceedingly sluggish, and gave no
evidence of the ship changing her position, unless kept in continual
agitation by shaking.

Immediately after my arrival at this port, I commenced the repairs
of the Peacock, which are now so far advanced that I shall be ready
for such duties as you may assign me by the 25th of the present
month.

The Peacock, as you have seen, has been considerably strained ;
and we have found on examination while repairing, that after her
gripe was beaten off, the ice had chafed the stem to within one inch
and a half of the wood-ends of the planking.

I trust my efforts to carry out your orders, and the course I have
pursued in returning to Sydney, and expediting the repairs of the ship,

APPENDIX. 469

have been such as to meet your approbation, as well as that of the
Honourable Secretary of the Navy.
I am, sir, yours, respectfully,
(Signed) Wiutam L. Hupson,

Commander.
Cuartes WILKEs, Esa.,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

X XX.

[Copy. ]

U.S. Brig Porpoise,
Bay of Islands, New Zealand.

March 31st, 1840.
S1rR,—

I have great gratification in reporting my arrival at this place on
the night of the 26th instant, all in good health; and respectfully
report the following results, as occurring since the period of separating
from you.

The 12th of January was consumed in diligent search and endea-
vours to regain: failing to do so, I proceeded westerly. At 10 p.m.,
the day following, I entered an inlet formed by the barrier, for the
purpose of making a close examination and experimenting on dip.

On a near approach to the margin, numbers of Phocze proboscide
were seen reposing: I succeeded in taking a pair, the skins of which
were subsequently placed on board the Peacock.

Very lofty ridges of ice, and the loom usual over high land, were
visible along the southern horizon, over the barrier. The compass at
the time being very sluggish, showing the brig’s head to the north,
when her head was correctly south.

From appearances to the southward, with the numerous Phoce
proboscide, I was strongly impressed with the belief of the close
approach to land.

On the 15th the water was much discoloured, casting in one hundred
and fifty fathoms without success. Dense fogs and snow prevented
further examination. I fell in and communicated with the Peacock on
the evening of the 15th, having her in sight on the 21st and 22d.

On the evening of the 16th, strong appearances of land again arose,
in corroboration of which I insert an extract from my journal, as well

as the remarks from the log-book.
VOL. II. 59

470 APPENDIX.

EXTRACT FROM JOURNAL.

“ At 6" 30™ p. m. I went aloft to take a look, the weather being clear,
horizon good, and clouds lofty. I heard the noise of a penguin; soon
after, one was seen very near the brig, with a large seal to windward.
After reaching masthead, [ saw over the field of ice, an object, large,
dark, and rounding, resembling a mountain in the distance. The ice-
bergs all were bright and brilliant, and in great contrast.

“‘] watched for an hour to see if the sun in his decline would change
the colour of the object by a difference of rays: it remained the same,
with a white cloud above, similar to those generally hovering over
high land; at sunset it remained the same. I took the bearing accu-
rately, intending to examine it closely as soon as I got a breeze. I am
strongly of the opinion it is an island, surrounded by immense fields of
ice now in sight.”

EXTRACT FROM LOG.

“ At 7 p.m. discovered what was supposed to be an island, bearing
south-by-east,—a great deal of field-ice in sight.
(Signed) «J. H. Nort.”

17th, the indications were again noticed, corroborating those of the
day preceding. From the 19th to the 21st, I was not in sight of the
barrier, owing to adverse winds and thick weather. On the afternoon
of the last date, I closed in again. On the 22d, 4 a.m., appearances
of land again to the southward and eastward, at the time passing an
iceberg with dark veins and dusty appearances, exciting again confi-
dent hopes of soon making positive discoveries.

On the 23d, I attained the parallel of 66° 49’ S., 151° 24’ E., by
observation, having reached the southern extreme of an extensive gulf,
studded with islands of ice, and far in the distance to the southward
high and lofty bergs were identified and entangled in the main barrier,
rendering our advancement one step further impossible. I put about,
tried dip, and retraced my steps, exchanging colours with Peacock at
2 30™ p.m, then on her way in.

After separating from you on the 27th, I proceeded’ westward,
keeping the barrier close to, reluctantly meeting insuperable obstacles
in every effort to pass the Antarctic Circle.

On the 28th, I experienced a heavy gale from southeast of thirty-six
hours, with snow and dense fog, rendering my situation dangerous in

APPENDIX. 471

the extreme, from the vast numbers of icebergs, and quantities of floe
and drift-ice, surrounding the brig at the time.

On the afternoon of the 30th, at 3" 45™, a ship was discovered
ahead; at 3"50™, another appeared in company ; being in latitude 64°
52’ 30” S., and longitude 135° 27’ EK. JI determined to speak them:
supposing them to be the Vincennes and Peacock; at 4° made them
out to be standing to the northward, under easy sail, and discovered
them to be strangers; at 45 30™ hoisted our colours, knowing that an
expedition under Captain Ross was expected in these seas, I took
them to be his ships, and stood ready to cheer the discoverer of the
North Magnetic Pole. At 4" 50™, having gained considerably upon
them, and being within I suppose a mile and a half, the strangers
showed French colours, the leeward and sternmost displaying a broad
pennant; and concluded they were the French discovery ships under
Captain D’Urville.

Desirous of speaking, and exchanging the usual and customary
compliments incident to naval life, I closed with them, designing to
pass within hail under the flag-ship’s stern. When within short
musket-shot, my intentions too evident to excite a doubt, so far from a
reciprocity being evinced, I saw, with surprise, sail made on board
the flag-ship. -Without a moment’s delay, I hauled down my colours
and bore upon my course.

On the morning of the 31st, at 8 a. m., I found myself completely
embayed in an immense gulf, with a field of table-ice one hundred and
fifty feet high, bearing to the northward, and from east to west so far
as eye could discern. After consuming the day in trending to wind-
ward, I passed out along its eastern margin without accident.

In my progress and examinations, I obtained frequent specimens of
sandstone, granite, and red clay, from the field and floe-ice.

I gained the meridian of 105° E., on the 12th of February, latitude
64° 54’ 8.; the weather was at intervals misty, affording little oppor-
tunity for observation; many strong indications of land presented
themselves. The barrier assumed a dark discoloured appearance,
with numerous stratified veins of earth and rocks, and with lofty and
conical peaks, remotely placed along its southern portion; the impres-
sion of land, surrounded and covered by field-ice, was often strongly
urged. Penguins and seals were seen, and in my anxiety to land and
convince my mind, I was embayed in a narrow and dangerous inlet,
which, with the aid of a strong southeast wind, was cleared in safety
ere night closed in. |

The wind easterly and the weather becoming clear, the occasion

472 | APPENDIX.

seemed so auspicious, that I was induced to extend my researches a
day or two, believing it would meet your approbation.

As | advanced westward, the marks of the approach to land were
becoming too plain to admit a doubt. The constant and increasing
noise of penguins and seals, the dark and discoloured aspect of the
ocean, with frequent huge masses of black frozen earth identified
therewith, strongly impressed me with the belief that a positive result
would arise in the event of a possibility to advance a few miles
further south.

On the afternoon of the 13th, I landed and extracted from an im-
-mense mass of black earth identified with the barrier, some hundreds
of yards back from the margin, specimens of rock corresponding to
those previously obtained. At sunset of the 13th, one hundred and
fifty-one icebergs, all assuming a discoloured and earthy appearance,
were counted from deck.

At 6 a.m. of the 14th, the wind having set in from the northwest, ]
stood back along the barrier on my return, hauling in to the south-
ward, and making it within the meridians of 120° and 130° E., being
a portion which escaped my personal observation, arising from incle-
ment weather. :

I had reached the meridian of 100° 07' 40” E., latitude 64° 15’ S.
I attempted to close with the barrier on the 24th, in order to procure
a supply of ice, being reduced to a half-gallon allowance of water ;
after several unsuccessful attempts, owing to rough and foggy weather,
I concluded to proceed north, in conformity with my instructions, and
at 2 p.m. bore up in a gale from northwest; the wind prevailing heavy
from that quarter gradually carried me near the Lord Auckland Isles,
passing the last iceberg in latitude in 55° 24’ S., longitude 148° 37’ E.

I availed myself of your suggestion,—put in and anchored on the
night of the 7th of March in the harbour of Sarah’s Bosom. I pro-
cured a supply of wood and water, and sailed again on the afternoon
of the 10th. The sketch of the island in my possession, though not
entirely correct, is sufficiently so to guide a vessel safely to the
anchorage. I proceeded to this place, passing to the eastward of
New Zealand,—strong northeast winds prolonging the passage.

I spoke the American whale-ship Mary and Martha, Coffin, master,
of Plymouth, Massachusetts, off Cook’s Straits, on the night of the 17th
instant: twenty-seven months out; twenty-two hundred barrels of oil;
reported at least one hundred ships engaged on the east coast in the
fisheries.

The weather during the cruise has been attended with great variety,

APPENDIX. 473

and sudden transitions. The great anxiety I felt to attain a high
southern parallel, and obtain convincing proofs of the existence of
land from the indications presented, added to the ardour of the officers
and crew, often involved us in situations, alike interesting, critical,
and dangerous, attributing our escapes without injury to the too plain
guidance of the watchful hand of Providence. |

Among the most pleasing reflections are those of the perfect exemp-
tion from sickness and disease,—not a serious case occurring during
the whole period, and not a symptom of incipient scurvy. I have
avoided all unnecessary exposure, affording every convenience and
comfort to the crew, ever keeping in mind, and rigidly adhering to,
your sanitary. regulations.

I cannot sufficiently express the satisfaction I feel in reporting the
very exemplary conduct of the crew; a universal desire to perform
their several duties was evinced, from the eldest to the youngest. I
beg leave to recommend them in the strongest terms to your notice
and consideration.

To the officers I return my thanks: they were ever attentive and
unremitting in their duties, greatly contributing to the gratifying and
safe termination of the cruise.

I feel great pleasure in speaking in high terms of them, and feel
assured they will receive from you the merit which they deserve.

The observations resulting from the cruise, together with the currents,
soundings, &c., are minutely and correctly placed upon the chart accom-
panying, which indicates the track of our researches along the Antarctic

Circle.
I have the honour to be,

Very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,

(Signed) Capwatapver Rinecotp,
Lieut, Com. U. S. Navy.
To Cuaries WILEEs, Esa.,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

XO XP

[Copy. ]
Sir,—
In reply to your letter of yesterday, I have to inform you that
Captain William Hobson, R. N., arrived here on the 29th January,
ult., in H. B. M. ship Herald, and that on the following day the two

proclamations now enclosed were made. During the next week
VOL. Il. 2P

ATQ4 APPENDIX.

meetings with some of the chiefs were held by Captain Hobson, when
the treaty (of which I have forwarded you a copy) was signed by a
few chiefs. Subsequently Captain Hobson and suite visited Hokianga
and the Thames, and obtained a few signatures at either place; hitherto
these are the only proceedings which have taken place relative to the
cession of any rights, by the chiefs of New Zealand, to the British
crown.

Referring to the above, the other apparent measures taken by Cap-
tain Hobson to establish the British authority here are, the holding a
court of sessions at Kororarika, which is in active operation, having a
strong police force under its control; the formation of a General Post
for New Zealand, and the appointment of various government officers
for New Zealand, by His Excellency the Governor of New South
Wales. 3

It is, however, to be remarked, that no laws relative to the mode or
form of government intended to be pursued in this colony, have as yet
been published.

I have the honour to be, &c.,

(Signed) James R. Cienpon,
U.S. Consul.

PROCLAMATION.

Victorta, Queen of England, with her affectionate remembrance to
the chiefs and tribes of New Zealand, desires to point out to them their
chieftainships in these lands; and that they may keep in peace and
live in comfort, thinks it right to send an English chief to advise with
the natives of New Zealand, that they may accept the government of
the Queen over all their land and islands. Because there will be
thousands of the Queen’s subjects to reside in the lands, and they are
coming.

The Queen is desirous of establishing a government, that all the
evils now upon the natives from the English living in idleness and
lawlessness may be removed.

Now the Queen is pleased to send me, William Hobson, Captain,
Royal Navy, as governor of all the islands of New Zealand, which
will at another time be given to the Queen.

The Queen says to the collection of the tribes of New Fersldutl
and all other tribes of New Zealand, these are the laws that we have
spoken of.

First. That the chiefs at the assembly, and those that were not at

APPENDIX. 475

the assembly, hereby give up entirely to the Queen for ever the
government of all their land.

Secondly. The Queen of England agrees and consents to secure to
all the tribes, chiefs, and all men in New Zealand, and the head chiefs,
all their rights in their lands, villages, and other property. But the
chiefs are to give to the Queen the right of purchasing all the lands
that the owners are willing to sell, at the price they choose to put on
it, and the Queen says she will pay for it herself.

Thirdly. This is the consent to the government of the Queen. The
Queen will protect all the natives of New Zealand, and secure to them
all the ee and privileges of the people of England.

ea Wizuram Hopson,

Consul and Lieutenant-Governor.

We the chiefs at the collection of the tribes of New Zealand,
assembled at Waitanga, are the chiefs of New Zealand, and see the
truth of these words and accept them, and therefore we put our names
and marks thereto.

Done at Waitanga on the 6th day of February, in the year of our
Lord one thousand eight hundred and forty.

TRANSLATION OF THE TREATY.

Her Masesty, Victoria, Queen of England, in her gracious consi-
deration for the chiefs and people of New Zealand, and her desire to
preserve to them their lands and to maintain peace and order amongst
them, has been pleased to appoint an officer to treat with them for the
cession of their country, and of the islands adjacent.

The Queen seeing that many of Her Majesty’s subjects have already
settled in this country, and are constantly arriving, and that it is desi-
rable for the protection of the natives to establish a government
amongst them.

Her Majesty has accordingly been pleased to appoint me, William
Hobson, a Captain in the Royal Navy, to be governor of such parts of
New Zealand as may be now or hereafter ceded to Her Majesty, and
proposes to the chiefs of the confederation of the united tribes of New
Zealand, and the other chiefs, to agree to the following articles:

Art. I. The chiefs of the confederation of the united tribes, and the
other chiefs who have not joined the confederation, cede to the Queen
of England for ever the entire sovereignty of the country.

Art. I]. The Queen of England confirms and guarantees to the

476 : APPENDIX. _

chiefs and tribes, and to all the people of New Zealand, the possession
of their lands, dwellings, and all their property. But the chiefs of the
confederation and the other chiefs grant to the Queen the exclusive
right of purchasing such lands as the proprietors thereof may be dis-
posed to sell, at such prices as shall be agreed upon between them and
the persons appointed by the Queen to purchase from them.

Art. III. In return for the cession of the sovereignty to the Queen,
the people of New Zealand shall be protected by the Queen of
England, and the rights and privileges of British subjects shall be
granted to them.

(Signed) Wituiam Hosson,

Consul and Lieutenant-Governor.

Now we the chiefs of the confederation of the united tribes of New
Zealand, being assembled at Waitanga, and we the other chiefs of
New Zealand having understood the meaning of these articles, accept
of them and agree to them all. In witness whereof our names or
marks are affixed.

Done at Waitanga the 6th day of February, in the year of our Lord
one thousand eight hundred and forty.

Here follow signatures of chiefs.

END OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

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