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THIS SHEET OF COPPER AND CAP PUT ON BY SPARROWHAWK, SEPTEMBER 13ru, 1839, IN ORDER TO PRESERVE THIS MONUMENT TO THE MEMORY OF COOK. I could have wished that the first inscription, relating solely to Cook, was the only one; the other, it seems to me, was not worthy of being associated with any thing connected with so great a name ; and good taste and proper feeling I think would have shrunk from imscribing it as well as the following on another part, “ Give this a coat of tar.” The southwest side of Hawaii is termed the district of Kona, and HAWAII AND OAHU. 101 includes Kealakeakua and Kailau. Having already spoken of the former, I shall now refer to the latter; more especially as from all accounts I heard of it, the natives are more advanced in the useful arts than elsewhere, and are now less dependent on foreigners. The town of Kailau is the residence of Kuakini, better known among foreigners by the name of Governor Adams, who is governor of Hawaii. This district lies to the north of Kealakeakua, and begins about five miles from Napolo. It is similar to it in character, but the lava is of more recent formation, the eruptions from Hualalai having flowed down and covered nearly the whole northern portion. ‘This eruption happened about thirty years since, in 1809 and 1810. Hualalai is between seven and eight thousand feet in height, and rises abruptly on its west side. Rain seldom falls on the coast, except in showers, and a rainy day once in the year is looked upon as something remarkable. This, together with the absence of all dew, prevents the existence of much cultivation ; it affords, nevertheless, a coarse vegetation, sufficient to pasture a few hundred goats; but, a mile back from the shore, the surface is covered with herbage, which maintains cattle, &c. ; and two miles in the interior there is sufficient moisture to keep up a con- stant verdure. Here, in a belt half a mile wide, the bread-fruit is met with in abundance, and above this the taro is cultivated with success. At an elevation of between two and three thousand feet, and at the dis- tance of five miles, the forest is first met with. The trees of this are suitable for building timber, and boards and shingles are made of them. The products of this portion of Kona are the same as before described. The prevailing winds are the land and sea breezes, which are very regular ; there are likewise strong north winds, but the most severe gales are those from the southwest, which the natives term kona ; these last from a few hours to two and even three days, and are followed by rain: they are seldom strong enough to injure the houses. Here the temperature is very mild and equable. During the winter the thermometer ranges, at sunrise, from 64° to 78° F.; at midday, 76° to 85°; at sunset, 70° to 80°. In summer the range 1s 68° to 80° at sunrise ; at midday, 78° to 86°; and at sunset, 72° to 81°. I have not been able to get any data for the amount of rain that falls. The population in 1839 was 5,943, which was only fourteen less VOL. Iv. 26 102 HAWAII AND OAHU. than in 1835. It is the opinion of the missionaries that the popula- tion is not decreasing by death, and it is thought that any apparent decrease is owing to removals, or if not to this cause, perhaps to an error in the census. The register of births and deaths for nine months, in 1839, would seem to confirm this, there being one hundred and twenty-three births and ninety-one deaths, or thirty-two in favour of the former. The result of the inquiries of Dr. Andrews, the resident physician, shows a great mortality among the children. Out of ninety-six married females, nearly all under forty-five years of age, twenty-three had no children; the remaining seventy-three had two hundred and ninety- nine, of which one hundred and fifty-two did not survive the second year: a large proportion of them died at from six to ten months old ; six died between two and ten years, and fourteen died when over ten years old. The dwellings of the natives are a little improved, and Governor Adams has the best-built stone house in the Hawaiian Islands. He has also a cotton factory constructed of stone, and by his influence there has been erected a large stone church and a school-house. He also gives much attention to the schools, and has twenty-three in his dis- trict for adult scholars, who are six or seven hundred in number ; and thirteen for children, with about five hundred pupils: all of these are taught by natives. To these is to be added a school for girls, taught by the ladies of the mission, numbering fifty-five scholars. Governor Adams, like all individuals of his class who are desirous of improving his countrymen, is represented by the low foreigners to be of a miserly and grasping disposition, and they say that he has acquired large stores of wealth, which he hoards up. He is certainly much respected by all those not engaged in trade, and spoken highly of by the natives over whom he rules. He is ad- mitted, however, by both foreigners and natives, to be one of the most shrewd and intelligent of the nation, and desirous of turning all things to account, competing even with foreigners. I had not the pleasure of meeting with him, of which I was desirous; for, owing to our unexpected detention at Oahu, we did not reach Hilo so soon as we had intended, and he was obliged to return to his home on the opposite side of the island. Being a man of large dimensions, as the chiefs usually are, he was deterred from performing so toilsome a journey again during our stay. The industry which prevails in his own particular district cer- HAWAII AND OAHU. 103 tainly shows uncommon exertion on the part of some one; and the fact that the natives are better clad, and more inclined to steady employment when they have no markets for the sale of their produce, speaks much in their favour. Any branch of industry that is likely to produce profit, and that will yield them the means of procuring clothing, is engaged in with avidity. There is only one store, where sandalwood, tutui-nuts, beans, corn, palm-leaf hats, and mustard-seed, are exchanged for goods. Corn (maize) is becoming quite an extensive article of commerce, and its cultivation is rapidly extending; cotton is likewise attended to. There is, indeed, little doubt, but that this people, under proper encouragement, will become industrious and prosperous. A considerable trade is kept up between the south and north end of this district. The inhabitants of the barren portion of the latter are principally occupied in fishing and the manufacture of salt, which articles are bartered with those who live in the more fertile regions of the south, for food and clothing. Some knowledge of the arts has been acquired, and the mass of the people manifest much ingenuity in the manufacture of various articles for convenience and comfort. A few have shown some skill in carpentry, having acquired this knowledge entirely by looking on and practising. Some have in the same way acquired the art of laying stone; and the large house of Governor Adams, heretofore spoken of, was entirely built by natives, under the superintendence of a foreigner. Others have been entirely erected by native work- men. Some have also become blacksmiths, and comb-makers, and a large number of native women are employed in making palm-leaf hats, which are of good quality. Governor Adams intends that his cotton manufactures shall super- sede Kuropean goods. Such undertakings cannot but excite interest in all who are looking to the general improvement and civilization of the islands of Polynesia. Like all first attempts at manufacturing, it was attended with difficulties; and as it may possess interest with some, I will give an account of its progress. In 1837 an edifice of stone was erected, using mud instead of lime- mortar, for the proposed works, thirty by sixty feet, with a thatched roof, and well lighted with glazed windows. About twenty wheels were made by natives, after a model furnished by a foreign carpenter, except the wheel-heads, which were of American manufacture. A small Chinese gin was employed to free the cotton of the seeds, only 104 HAWAII AND OAHU. a trifle better than using the fingers; the cards were imported from ~ the United States. Thus prepared, the work went into operation on the Ist of January, 1838. Three females, who had made a tolerable proficiency in the art of spinning, and had been taught by the American missionaries residing at Maui, were procured as teachers. Under these, thirty women and girls, from ten to forty years of age, began spinning ; they soon equalled their teachers, and many of the younger ones excelled them. Two looms and other necessary apparatus were next procured, and also a foreigner to teach the use of them. He was engaged for several months in the establishment, during which time he had under his instruction four young men, with whom he wove several pieces of brown stripes and plaids, plain and twilled cotton cloth. After this time, the natives were able to prepare and weave independently of his aid. Becoming dissatisfied, however, all left the work, together with the foreigner; but after some time they were induced to return to their work. 'This small establishment has ever since been kept up entirely by the natives. It is succeeding with this aid alone, and is probably the only one of the kind in Polynesia. In this district, no cases of intoxication had been seen for some years prior to the French treaty; but since that time, an American resident at Honolulu has introduced spirituous liquors, by which a number of natives have been once more led back to this vice. No cases of infanticide have been heard of here. The acute diseases which prevail in Kailau, are inflammation of the lungs, pleura, and peritoneum; but these are not frequent. Acute inflammation of the eyes is common, but generally yields readily to medical treatment. Fevers of the synochus type are common ; typhus is rare, if it ever occur. Chronic inflammation of the eyes, accom- panied by opacity of the cornea, is of frequent occurrence; as are also asthma, diarrhoea, cutaneous eruptions, and ulcers. Paralysis and mania are frequent; gonorrhoea is met with, but few cases of recent syphilis. ‘The mumps spread extensively during the summer of 1839; in some cases, owing to want of care and exposure, it was severe, but was more generally mild. In this district, the Reverend Mr. Thurston- has been settled as missionary since the year 1823, and is assisted by Dr. Seth Andrews, to whom I feel much indebted for useful information. Mr. Rich found but few plants among the decomposed scoria; among them he notices Copaiva, Plumbago zeylanica, Boerhaavia, HAWAII AND OAHU. 105 several Convolvuli and Sidas, with a few grasses and some lichens. Copaiva and Plumbago, are two of the most powerful remedies in the native materia medica. ‘The Sidas are used for making lis for the women. The ground has the appearance of having been once more exten- sively cultivated than it is at present. ‘l'he trees were Artocarpus, Aleurites, Eugenia, and Broussonetia, all of which furnish both food and clothing, and have been brought here at some former time from other regions. On Monday, our gentlemen formed themselves into two parties, and started on horseback for their journey. One party consisted of Messrs. Peale, Rich, and Hall, with eight Kanakas and two guides; Mr. Dana and Midshipman Hudson, with Kanakas and guides, formed the other, which took the route along the sea-shore towards the south, well provided with provisions, and a supply of various articles for their journey; Mrs. Forbes, with great kindness, having added many things for their comfort, which they duly appreciated. On their way from the coast, they in a short time came to a very fertile district, with luxuriant sugar-cane, taro, &c., and good houses. ‘The taro here is cultivated without water; but in order to retain the moisture and protect the plant from the sun, it was ob- served that they used fern-leaves to secure and shield the roots. The taro, thus cultivated, attams a much larger size and is superior to that which is grown in water, being more dry and mealy. The houses of this district are much better also, although the natives, for the most part, reside at the sea-shore, to enjoy fishing and bathing. In their day’s jaunt they passed some wooded land, the trees of which consisted of koa (Acacia), Edwardsia chrysophylla (which is used for fuel), Dodonea, &c. Plants of wild raspberry and strawberry were seen,—the fruits of both now out of season; the former, however, yet showed some of its blossoms, like small roses. The most remarkable plant was a species of dock, with large clusters of crimson flowers, which runs up the branches of dead trees to the height of twenty or thirty feet. These woods abounded with birds, several of which Mr. Peale shot; among them a crow, called by the natives Alala, and a muscicapa called Elepaio,—formerly wor- shipped as the god of canoe-makers. Before reaching their camping- place, they stopped to fill their calabashes with water, as they did not expect to find any of that necessary article for the next few days. On the edge of the last timber, at the elevation of two thousand feet, they VOL. Iv. 27 106 HAWAII AND OAHU. encamped. Here they found excellent pasture for their horses among the ferns, a great abundance of which had been met with on both sides of the path, and were from four to five feet in height. At night, the temperature fell to 48°, which was thirty degrees less than they had left it on the coast; and it was cold enough to sleep under two blankets. The next day they arose at sunrise, when Mr. Hall and the natives, as they did regularly every morning during the journey, prayed and sang a hymn, before setting out. They soon passed beyond the woods, and entered a country of barren appearance, composed of hard solid lavas, in the crevices of which were found several shrubby Geraniums, Vacciniums, Daphnes, numerous Composite of a stiff rigid character, and some small ohea bushes,—a kind of sweet whortleberry. On their route, many deep caverns were observed under the lava. The signs of wild cattle and dogs were frequent: the latter seek shelter in these caves. The cattle are now rapidly on the increase, there being a prohibition against killing them until a certain number of years have passed. After a day’s travel, they reached the site of the ancient temple of Kai. These ruins le about equally distant from three mountains, Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, and Hualalai. This temple is said to have been built by Umi, who, with his wife Papa, is supposed to have inhabited it, when he was king of the island. The three northern pyramids forming the front were originally erected by Umi, to repre- sent the districts of the island he then governed; and as he conquered other districts, he obliged each of them to build a pyramid on the side of the temple. 3 This temple is represented in the adjoining plate. The main building a, is ninety-two feet long, by seventy-one feet ten inches wide ; the walls are six feet nine inches high, seven feet thick at the top, and nearly perpendicular; the partition walls are three feet high: B and c are said to have been pedestals for idols; D, E, and F, are the pyramids built by Umi, eighteen feet high; e is the residence of Kaili’s wife, Papa, also built by Umi. The five remaining pyramids, 4, I, J, K, L, are those erected by the conquered districts. All these are built of compact blocks of lava, laid without cement. The building is said to have formerly been covered with idols, and offerings were required to be brought from a great distance, consist- ing generally of provisions. ‘There are now no traces left of these Gy) a0) Stale A ‘3 (eaten HAWAII AND OAHU. 107 idols. ‘The situation of the temple is at an elevation of five thousand feet above the sea. They proceeded a few miles beyond this point with their horses, but found the ground, consisting of broken lava and scoria, too rough for them. ‘They therefore put them in charge of three little boys, to take them back to Kealakeakua Bay. Mr. Peale shot two of the mountain geese peculiar to this part of the island; they are remarkably fine birds, and live entirely upon berries. In their route this day they passed several caves, which the natives were said to have inhabited while collecting sandalwood on the mountains for the chiefs. The walking now became extremely fatiguing, over vast piles of scoria, thrown up in loose heaps. There was no vegetation except a few small trees of Metrosideros, scattered here and there, and whortleberries. ‘The heaps of scoria were to ap- pearance like those from some huge foundry. On the 18th, they resumed their journey at an early hour, passing in a direction towards Mauna Kea, over many rough ridges of the old lava streams, that were found from a quarter of a mile to a mile in width. One in particular, that pursued a northwest direction, their guides informed them was forty miles in length, and had flowed down towards the centre of the island. It had not a particle of vegetation on it; not even a lichen was to be seen. The lava of this stream is broken up into pieces of all sorts of shapes and sizes, weighing from a pound to many tons. Mr. Peale remarks, that the whole mass looked so fresh, that it appeared as though it ought to burn the feet of the passing traveller—and yet this eruption took place anterior to native tradition. One of the native guides, Kimo, gave out here from fatigue, and after sharing his load they left him to follow. They next passed two old craters covered with bushes and grass, at whose base was a fresh-looking stream of glassy lava. The first crater was in many respects like an old stone quarry, though on a gigantic scale: the rocks were broken up, and thrown about in great confusion ; one side of the wall appeared as though it had been blown out, and strewed on the plain beneath; the sides that were left were nearly perpendicular, and presented distinct layers. Many plants were growing in the crevices. The second crater was of a regular conical shape, both within and without, the interior being an inverted cone. Although the interior presented this great regularity, yet its sides were apparently composed 108 HAWAII AND OAHU. of large blocks of lava, thrown out from its bottom, and lodged on its sides one above the other. They encamped at the foot of a very old crater, now covered with trees of Edwardsia and Acacia, where they found water. ‘The natives sought out one of the lava caves, as a protection against the cold and misty wind. Kimo again joined them at dark. Although the next day they had fine weather and clear sunshine, yet they could see the rain falling from the clouds on the route before them. This rain they experienced shortly afterwards, and were obliged to travel through a driving mist all day, with a very chilly atmosphere. The natives complained so much of cold, that the party were induced to stop, light a fire, and give them some provisions, which had now become rather scarce. Seeing abundant signs of wild cattle, and hearing the sound of a distant gun, one of the guides went off to the haunts of the cattle-hunters in the neighbourhood, and shortly after returned with a supply of jerked beef. Their route lay next through some very good grazing ground; and large herds of cattle find subsistence here, which are killed for the hides. Bones were lying in all directions. ‘There is also some very good arable land, covered with large grass. This part of the island would make valuable grazing farms, for there is a sufficiency of soil to support them, and wood to build with, though scarcely enough of the latter article for fuel. ‘The loose scoria would make excellent fences, as the cattle can with difficulty be driven over it. The distance from the coast and the want of roads, however, would interpose many obstacles to its settlement; and the climate, so unlike what the natives are accustomed to on the coast, would probably prevent their services from being obtained. The next morning they perceived that the tops of both Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa were covered with snow, which, however, disap- peared by ten o’clock. They now took a southerly course, crossing over many ancient beds of lava much decomposed, and now covered with vegetation. The trees were the koa (Acacia), Edwardsia, and Dodonea. They now first met the curious Composite mentioned by Douglass, and named by Dr. Hooker, Aygrophyton Douglassia; it was seen about eight feet in height, covered with a silver pubescence, which gives it a beautiful appearance. ‘They found many pools of water in the lava. They had crossed over the flank of Mauna Loa, and supposed themselves to be about two-thirds of the way up towards its summit. HAWAII AND OAHU. 109 The temperature at night fell to 40°. The beautiful columnar cloud of the voleano of Kilauea, which is always seen to hang over the crater, both by day and by night, was now in full view. The next day they were on their route early, and passed some rich grazing country, with the grass full four feet high. From all appear- ances, these parts are not visited by cattle. ‘There were many trees of koa (Acacia), Edwardsia, &c., as before. A fog coming on, they lost their way, and were obliged to retrace their steps. Our gentle- men, having their pocket-compasses, now took the lead, to the no small astonishment of their guides, that they could, in a thick fog, direct the way through places they had never visited before. Kimo, their Oahu guide, again gave out, and was left to follow; and as he did not come up as soon as he was expected, the guides and natives set out, in a praiseworthy manner, to hunt him up, although they were all more or less lamed by crossing over the rough lava during the day. They soon succeeded in finding him, and returned to the camp. On the 22d, they reached the volcano, and considered themselves amply repaid for the rough travelling they had gone through for six days previously. As I shall have occasion to speak more fully of this portion of the island, with its many craters and its volcanic action, I shall defer the account of it for the present. Our gentlemen now set out for Hilo, where they arrived the day after, having travelled a distance of one hundred and fifty miles. Here they again embarked on board the Flying-Fish, which sailed for Oahu, and reached Honolulu on the 28th of November. The squadron was now on the eve of sailing, having on board stores and provisions for a long cruise. As this winter’s cruising was par- ticularly intended to examine the portion of ocean that was not included in my instructions, I shall, before narrating the details of the proceedings of the squadron, give, in a general view, the intended operations. The movements of the squadron were, at this time, particularly directed to the examination of parts of the ocean possessing great interest in their connexion with that important branch of national industry, the whale-fishery ; and the course I proposed to adopt will be understood from the following statement of the objects I now had in view. The Porpoise, as before remarked, had been sent towards the Paumotu Group, or Dangerous Archipelago, lying to the eastward VOL. Iv. 28 110 HAWAII AND OAHU. of Tahiti, to examine some islands that were reported as doubtful, and others whose positions were not well ascertained. She was also to leave a party on one of them, to bore through the coral rock, the Expedition having been provided with an apparatus for that purpose. Thence she was to proceed to Tahiti, and from Tahiti towards Penrhyn and Flint’s Island; and return to Oahu by the end of March, 1841. The Porpoise sailed, as has been stated, on the 16th of November, 1840. The Peacock, with the Flying-Fish as tender, I designed should visit and examine the location of several of the doubtful islands, passing along the magnetic equator westward from the meridian of 160°; thence to a small group of islands in longitude 174° W., which I had partly examined in the Vincennes, and had found some new islands among them: these I had called the Phoenix Group. ‘Thence the Peacock was to proceed to search for the Gente Hermosas of Quiros, or the islands reported to me at Upolu, when I was there in 1839, as existing to the northeast; thence to Upolu, to re-survey the south side of the island, not having been able to satisfy myself with the former survey of it; at the same time directing Captain Hudson to inquire into the late murder of an American seaman, of which I had received information from our consul, Mr. Williams. Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold had, as before stated, made a demand for the murderer, but the chiefs had refused to comply with the treaty. ‘The circumstances of the murder of Gideon Smith, as given by affidavits made before the consul, (which will be found in Appendix XX., Vol. IIT.,) are as follows. Gideon Smith was a native of Bath, Massachusetts. He belonged to the whale-ship Harold, of Dorchester, Massachusetts, but left her on touching at the island of Upolu, about the Ist of May, and went to live with a chief, Palasi by name, in the village of Fatua. Here he took a wife, belonging to this chief’s family. It appears, that after a few weeks the family did not use him well, and were desirous of get- ting rid of him, but wished to retain a monkey-jacket belonging to him. For this purpose they got possession of the jacket, and took his wife away from him. After the third night, it appears that Smith left the house, taking with him three axes, five fathoms of cloth, a shawl, and tapa, in payment for his jacket, or until it should be given up to him. The next day, it appears that Palasi and his wife came in search of Smith; and, on hearing that the articles were in posses- sion of one of his acquaintance, by the name of Maitland, they told HAWAII AND OAHU. IE him to keep the articles, for all that they wanted was their white man. Smith refused to return, and said that all he desired was his jacket, which was soon after brought, and then the articles were returned. Smith was advised not to walk about, or leave the village after dark, until the chiefs anger was over; but he appears not to have heeded this advice, having gone to Murivai, part of the town of Saluafata, and after dark went out, for the purpose of going to a house about three hundred yards distant. ‘The moon was full, and it was quite light. About half an hour after he set out, a native inquired for Smith, and said that he had stepped in something that was in the path, which was not water, but felt like blood. The alarm was immediately given, and, on search being made, the body of Smith was found, with a cut on the right side of the neck, which had nearly severed the head from the body, another on the left side, a deep wound with an axe on the breast, and one on the head. Suspicion at once rested upon Vave, alias Tagi, Palasi’s brother, who was heard inquiring for Smith, having an axe in his hand at the time. This man was examined before the consul, and when asked if he had murdered the white man, said “ Yes.’’ On being asked the reason, he said, “‘ Because his heart was pained with his theft.” Being further questioned, as to the circumstances, he said, “’That when Smith first landed, he came to him with another white man, to pro- cure a wife, offerme an American axe and jacket as a reward or purchase for her. After a few days Smith wished to change his lodgings, and live with another man by the name of Maitland, taking his wife with him. The day after, a report reached the family that the girl had cried all night, and that Smith had hurt her. They returned and lived a short time together at her house, after which Smith again left it, with the articles. These, Tagi said, had been all returned except a siapo belonging to the girl. The failure to return the latter caused them to be very angry, and he took up an axe to go in search of Smith, with an intent to kill him. On meeting Smith, he asked him for the siapo, which he denied having, upon which he killed him with the axe.” From other evidence, it fully appeared that all the family of Palasi were cognizant of the fact; and the chiefs having refused to give him up, or to try him for murder, it became necessary to show these islanders that they could not commit such acts with impunity. Captain Hudson was, therefore, instructed to inquire into the facts, 112 HAWAII AND OAHU. and take such measures as would secure our citizens from molestation in future, and cause the islanders to respect their own regulations. From the Samoan Group, the Peacock was to proceed to examine and survey Ellice’s Group ; thence north to the Kingsmill Group, and passing through the Rurick Chain, visit the Pescadores, to ascertain, if possible, any circumstances that would throw light on the fate of a Captain Dowsett, who it was supposed might have been detained in captivity by the natives. The following particulars from his wife were furnished me by Mr. Brinsmade, the American consul at Oahu: they are all that is known of his fate. The schooner Victoria was in charge of Captain Dowsett, and went to the Pescadores, on a shelling voyage ; there he landed with several of the crew, and among them a boy named Brown. Some difficulty occurred on shore, and the captain and such of the crew as were with him were set upon, and were not seen afterwards. ‘The boy escaped. The survivors describe the people as a fishing party, unarmed and unwarlike, with no other weapons but sticks and pieces of iron hoops purchased from the schooner. ‘They had neither clubs nor spears. A report afterwards reached Oahu, that a canoe had been picked up with some natives, who reported that Captain Dowsett and his men were alive; that one of them was named Sam, (the Christian name of Captain Dowsett,) and another George, (the name of a New Zealander.) Mr. H. A. Pierce, a merchant of Honolulu, in conse- quence, despatched the schooner Waverley in search of them. This vessel has never been heard of, but reports reached Honolulu, that Captain Scott, had succeeded in getting the chief on board, and had recognised several articles belonging to Captain Dowsett, which his wife had sent him. Some misunderstanding occurring between the master of the Waverley and the chief, the former cut off the beard of the latter and sent him on shore. The cause of the difficulty that occurred between Mr. Dowsett and the natives is unknown. The boy, Brown, was at a distance from the party when it took place, and did not see Mr. Dowsett. Dowsett and the chief had been previously on the most friendly terms, and had exchanged tokens of friendship. I was desirous of clearing up the mystery that hung over their fate, and also that of the Waverley, and directed the Peacock to visit, for this purpose, Strong’s and Ascension Islands, after leaving the Pescadores. The facts known concerning the Waverley are very few, but they HAWAII AND OAHU. 1183 lead to the belief that she lies a wreck on Strong’s Island. The schooner Honduras, Captain Scott, went to Strong’s Island, under the impression that the natives were very peaceable and friendly, intend- ing to overhaul the vessel there, in the east bay. At noon, on the 23d of August, 1835, he arrived off the island. No canoes came alongside, a circumstance which excited the suspicion of several of the crew that had formerly resided there, for they knew that it was customary for some of the natives to board a vessel as soon as she neared the island. They told their fears to the captain; but canoes arriving shortly after with presents of bread-fruit, he manifested some displeasure that the crew should have had any doubts on the subject, and calling to one of them who formerly had lived there, told him to ask the natives where all the white men were. They readily answered, “On the other side of the island,’ which at once quieted the captain’s sus- picions, though it appeared to confirm those of some of the crew, who knew them better. The captain, however, ordered the boat to be hoisted out, and gave as many of the crew as chose, permission to go on shore. ‘T'wo of them went immediately, and then the captain and six others. Shortly after, the natives began to throng on board. In about half an hour, those remaining on board heard the captain call for help, which was the last they knew respecting him. On seeing that the attack had begun on shore, the natives on board instantly attacked the seven men remaining in the vessel. The mate and another man rushed below, and having armed them- selves with muskets, they again reached the deck; the natives who had possession of it, seeing the fire-arms, immediately jumped over- board. An American, named Webber, and a Malay, were found lying dead; the other three had disappeared. ‘The natives now discovering that the muskets were out of order, endeavoured again to get on board, but were kept off until the swivels were loaded, when they all swam for the shore. ‘These two men at once slipped the cable, and got the vessel under way. When beating out of the harbour, a cannon was fired at them several times, with so well-directed an aim, that the shot passed close to the vessel. This gun was believed to be a six- pounder, belonging to the Waverley; and it is thought that that vessel was captured, and is now lying a wreck there. The Honduras put away for Ascension Island, where she arrived in ten days, and was taken possession of by Mr. Dudoit, the part owner, who obtained another crew; she then returned to Strong’s Island, and cruised off and on for a month, but nothing was seen after VOL. IV. 29 114 HAWAII AND OAHU. the first day, when two boats and a canoe approached the vessel. One of the boats was recognised as that belonging to the Honduras, in which the captain had gone on shore; the other was thought to belong to the Waverley, but the boats did not come near enough to permit them, or the persons in them, to be distinguished: they were, however, clothed. Guns fired at them, when they were entirely out of reach, caused them to return. Masts, supposed to have been those of a vessel, were seen over the land. A rumour reached Tahiti, a year afterwards, that both Captain Cathcart, of the Waverley, and Captain Scott, were living at Strong’s Island, and that the hull of the Waverley was lying rotting in a creek on the west side of the island. In looking into all the facts of these cases, it seems that there may have been some cause for the great change that took place in the conduct of the natives of these islands, in the course pursued by the whites. It appears by testimony in my possession, that Mr. Dudoit had confined and taken away two men against their will, on a former visit. We have also seen that Captain Cathcart, of the Waverley, had maltreated a chief, by cutting off his beard: this act was sufficient to incense the whole people, and to cause the capture and massacre of all the whites within reach; for it is an indignity that no natives of the South Seas would submit to. It seems very improbable that the whites could have become so ascendant on the island, in so short a time as elapsed between the two visits of the Honduras; but it is not at all surprising that the natives should have visited Mr. Dudoit’s sins upon the head of his captain. There was an impression at Oahu, that white men must have had some agency in the business, from the manner in which the guns were directed and fired. If a massacre took place on board the Wa- verley, it is not improbable that two or three might have been spared, held in subjection by the natives, and forced to perform this service. The presence and action of whites may have arisen from runaways from vessels, for we have had ample proof that throughout the Pacific isles there are dissolute characters, who would be as prone as any savage to deeds of piracy or blood, if they themselves were to derive any benefit from it. Whatever were the true state of things, I felt well satisfied that it was desirable for some part of our force to visit this island: both it and Ascension were therefore included in the orders of Captain Hud- son. The latter is at present the limit of the whale-fishery within HAWAII AND OAHU. 115 the tropics to the west. I was desirous also of obtaining a knowledge of the supplies it afforded for recruiting whale-ships, as well as making an examination of some interesting monuments of the natives said to exist there. The Peacock and tender were ordered from these islands to proceed to the Northwest Coast of America, to rendezvous with the rest of the squadron at the Columbia river, in the latter end of April. This cruise included the middle as well as the extreme western part of the cruising-ground of our whale-ships. How far these inten- tions were accomplished, will be seen when I come to treat of her operations. Captain Hudson’s instructions will be found in Appendix VITl. The eastern section of this belt it was my intention to explore with the Vincennes, after having visited and examined the volcanoes of Hawaii, and made the pendulum observations on the top of Mauna Loa. The unforeseen difficulties which occurred to prevent my carrying out this plan, will appear in the following chapters. The Peacock and tender sailed on the afternoon of the 2d of De- cember, 1840. The tender, in leaving the harbour, took the ground, and was detained several hours. Captain Hudson sent one of his boats to her aid, and informed Mr. Knox that he would steer off on a certain course, directing him to follow this after dark; I was, there- fore, not a little surprised the next morning to find the Peacock in sight, standing in, having missed the Flying-Fish in the night: we telegraphed that the tender had sailed the evening before, and the Peacock again stood off. We shortly after saw them join company, and bear away on their route. TRAVELLING CALABASHES OF HAWAII. Cle we I is Is WY CONTENTS. THE VINCENNES LEAVES HONOLULU—DRUNKEN PILOT—MESSRS. BRINSMADE AND JUDD ACCOMPANY US—KANAKAS— PASSAGE TO HILO—BAY OF HILO—DISTANT VIEW OF HAWAII— VIEW FROM HILO BAY—OBSERVATORY ESTABLISHED AT WAIAKEA—HILO— STRENGTH OF THE PARTY FOR THE ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN—CONFUSION AMONG THE NATIVES—DEPARTURE FROM HILO—THE KING’S FISH-PONDS—BYRON’S HILL—OLAA —PAHOIHOI LAVA—KAPUAUHI—IRON MORTAR—TERRITORY OF PELE—FIRST VIEW OF MAUNA LOA—VOLCANO OF KILAUEA —DEPARTURE FROM IT—SCARCITY OF WATER— CLINKERS— LOSS OF MR. BRINSMADE’S STOCK OF WATER—DESERTER— THE WOODED REGION LEFT—CAVES—SUNDAY STATION—RAGSDALE JOINS THE PARTY—DR. JUDD GOES IN SEARCH OF SNOW —RECRUITING STATION —DESERTION OF THE NATIVES — FLAG STATION—UNPLEASANT NIGHT—LONGLEY IS MISSED—SUMMIT OF MAUNA LOA REACHED—ARRIVAL THERE OF MESSRS. JUDD AND PICKERING—CRATER RECONNOITRED —ORIGIN OF THE CLINKERS—CHRISTMAS DAY—LONGLEY IS FOUND—VISIT TO THE RECRUITING STATION—RETURN TO THE SUMMIT—ARRIVAL OF PROVISIONS FROM THE SHIP—PENDULUM-HOUSE ERECTED—NEW YEAR’S DAY—PHENOMENA OF THE CLOUDS— SURVEY OF THE SUMMIT BEGUN—PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS BEGUN—SEVERE STORM —SURVEY OF THE CRATER — EXPERIMENTS ON SOUND — PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS FINISHED — MOKU-A-WEO-WEO— HEIGHT OF MAUNA KEA—SURVEY OF THE SUMMIT FINISHED. § hal ny Re rae xs Re Bg & 3 Highest Paint ove the levelol d tide, ab CG lelt Ie Wig sis It Wc MAUNA LOA. 1840. In the Vincennes we were all ready at an early hour on the 3d of December, excepting the pilot, Adams, who was not to be found. He finally came on board, when, from his actions, I concluded that he was intoxicated, and told him so; this it seems he took in high dudgeon. After I had gone on shore to transact some business, he became very noisy and abusive to the first-heutenant, who very pro- perly told him to leave the ship. Finding he was not to be depended upon, I determined to take the ship to sea myself, and for this purpose stationed boats to act as buoys on the narrowest part of the bar. Shortly after this was done, a fresh breeze sprung up, we cast off, and in a few minutes were safely outside. I was led, by this circumstance, to lay a complaint before the king against the employment of a drunken pilot, and was in hopes that Adams would, in consequence, have been dismissed, and a competent person appointed in his stead. But through misrepresentations made to the king, no new appointment was made. Mr. Reynolds acts in old Adams’s place when he is drunk, and the result, as I have been credibly informed, is, that more than one half of the ships, going in or coming out, get on shore. Some instances of the sort occurred during my stay, among which was the case of the ship Morea. I urged the dismissal of Adams, on the ground that if he were not removed, the price of insurance of vessels bound to the port of Honolulu would be affected, and that, besides, the interest of the owners would suffer by their detention from his imability to take the vessels to sea. The correspondence that passed on this subject will be found in Appendix IX. 120 MAUNA LOA. Having got safely out of the harbour, we hove-to for the boats; when they joined us they were hoisted up, and we made sail with a fine fresh trade-wind. I had the pleasure of being accompanied by Mr. Brinsmade, our worthy consul, and my friend Dr. G. P. Judd, both of whom volun- teered to accompany me in the novel and arduous enterprise I was about to undertake. ‘The former hoped to improve his health, which had suffered from long confinement in the warm zone of the islands, by the invigorating mountain air; the latter was desirous to share our troubles and fatigues, and undertook to act as our physician, inter- preter, adviser, and manager of the natives. ‘To him the Expedition is much indebted for his exertions and enthusiasm. Besides this, I feel personally under great obligations, and take pleasure in making my acknowledgments here for his hospitality, and the kindness received from himself and family while at Honolulu, and for the information I derived from him relative to the islands. We had, also, with us as interpreters, several graduates of the high-school at Lahaina, whom I thought necessary in the manage- ment of the natives we were about to employ. Believing that we should be much more likely to obtain favourable winds to the northward, I determined to pass between the islands of Molokai and Oahu. We now began to find that our new men, the Kanakas, required much attention; many of them were sea-sick, and, true to their for- mer habits, it was difficult to arouse or induce them to exert them- selves. They began to recover in a few days; but though well- disposed men, they are unfitted for service in men-of-war. They do very well when they are working in small parties, but are inclined to be idle, and disposed to let others do all the work. It is, also, extremely difficult to infuse into them a proper degree of attention to personal cleanliness. ‘To judge of those we had on board the Vincennes, they are not apt at learning either the language or the ideas necessary for sailors. ‘The greater portion of them were found very timid, and they did not like to venture aloft. The only place in which we found them useful was in boats, for they were more in their element while in the water than out of it. One or two serious acci- dents, however, were near occurring to the officers in boats, while passing through the reefs, from the desire of the Kanakas to avoid danger by jumping overboard, and taking to swimming, thus leaving the boat exposed in perilous situations. On the whole, I was disap- MAUNA LOA. 121 pointed with them, and would prefer to go weak-handed rather than again resort to such aid, although I must do them the justice to say they were extremely willing, and when pulling at an oar, serviceable enough. They suit the whale-ships, I am told, admirably, working steadily and well, and are fearless in the chase. ‘They are at all times well disposed to do what they are shown or understand ; but, as I before said, their capacity is very limited. Their Hawaiian names were too difficult for the sailors to adopt, and they very soon had others given them, that arose from personal peculiarities, or from some whim of the sailors with whom they messed; and they were consequently seldom called by their real names, except at muster. During our progress to Waiakea, or Hilo Bay, we had light vari- able winds, with heavy dews at night. On the 8th we made Mauna Kea, then about fifty miles distant, subtending an angle of two degrees : it was capped with snow. As we approached the island, we had, also, a view of Mauna Loa, with the cloud resting over the volcano of Kilauea, the scene of our future adventures. The next morning we found ourselves close in with the land, and at eleven o'clock received a pilot on board, John Ely, who proved to be an old shipmate of mine in the Guerriere frigate in 1820; but we had both lost the recollection of each other: I had grown into man- hood, and he had been dwelling, as he said, among the ignorant savages of the Pacific. For three or four hours we had baffling winds; but after 3 p m. the sea-breeze came up and wafted us into the bay, which we reached at half-past four, and dropped our anchor in five and a half fathoms, with muddy bottom. This bay is little protected from the sea, and is almost an open roadstead. It has, however, an extensive sunken coral reef to sea- ward, which is too shoal to allow of the passage of vessels over, and affords some protection against the rolling sea; a vessel therefore usually lies quiet, unless it is blowing strong outside. There is no danger in entering the bay; all that is required is to avoid the west point of the reef, and on passing it to haul to the southward. We found the best anchorage on the east side of the bay, where Cocoa-nut Island and the most eastern point are in range. In sailing towards Hilo Bay, Hawaii has but few of the characters that indicate a volcanic origin. In this respect it resembles Savaii, in the Samoan Group; and the resemblance has been the cause of VOL. Iv. 31 = = 122 MAUNA LOA. what is in fact the same name having been given to both. The two words differ no more in spelling and sound, than has arisen from the long separation of two families of the same race and language. Many of the points and headlands present a like similarity im name, and strengthen the conviction of the common origin of the inhabitants of the two groups.* To one unacquainted with the great height of the mountains of Hawaii, this island might appear of comparatively small elevation, for its surface rises gradually from the sea, uniform and unbroken ; no abrupt spurs or angular peaks are to be seen, and the whole is apparently clothed with a luxuriant vegetation. The scene which the island presents as viewed from the anchorage in Hilo Bay, is both novel and splendid: the shores are studded with extensive groves of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, interspersed with plantations of sugar-cane ; through these, numerous streams are seen hurrying headlong to the ocean; to this succeeds a belt of some miles in width, free from woods, but clothed in verdure ; beyond is a wider belt of forest, whose trees, as they rise higher and higher from the sea, change their characters from the vegetation of the tropics to that of polar regions; and above all tower the snow-capped summits of the mountains. From this point of view, Mauna Kea, distant about thirty-five miles, has the appearance of being by much the highest mountain on the island ; while Mauna Loa, distant sixty miles, and rounded at its summit to the shape of a regular dome, requires an effort of reason to satisfy the observer that it really has as great an elevation. A conviction that this is the case may be reached by tracing with the eye the edge of the forest that encircles both mountains, and noting how large a portion of the dome of Mauna Loa rises above the woody region. No snow was visible to the naked eye on Mauna Loa, but with a telescope it was seen scattered here and there on its rounded summit. The appearance of this mountain is so deceptive, that one would not suppose it to have half its real altitude; and it might easily be passed unnoticed, so unpretending is its aspect. From Hilo, Mauna Loa * This subject will form a part of the report of Mr. Hale, the Philologist to the Expe- dition, to which I refer for a full investigation of it, and of its bearing upon the migrations of the Polynesian tribes. MAUNA LOA. 123 looks as if one might walk over its smooth surface without difficulty ; there is, indeed, so much optical deception in respect to this moun- tain, that it served to give us all great encouragement, and we set about making our preparations with a determination to succeed in the attempt to reach its highest summit. ‘The position of the crater of Kilauea was denoted by the silvery cloud which hangs over it by day; which, as evening closed in, was, by the glare of the fires burning beneath, made visible throughout the night. My time was now actively employed in establishing the obser- vatory at Waiakea Point, for rating the chronometers, and in arranging the instruments to carry on simultaneous observations with our mountain party. I had also a house built after the native fashion, in order that some of the officers might be engaged upon the charts. Waiakea Point is situated on the opposite side of the bay from Hilo. The distance between them is a little more than a mile, and the path leads along a sandy beach, on which the surf continually breaks, and at times with great violence. Hilo is a straggling village, and is rendered almost invisible by the luxuriant growth of the sugar-cane, which the natives plant around their houses. A good road has been made through it for the extent of a mile, at one end of which the mission establishment is situated. This consists of several houses, most of which are of modern style, covered with zinc and shingles. One of them, however, the resi- dence of the Rev. Mr. Coan, was in very different style, and derived importance in our eyes, from its recalling the associations of home. It was an old-fashioned, prim, red Yankee house, with white sills and casements, and double rows of small windows. No one could mistake the birthplace of the architect, and although thirty degrees nearer the equator than the climate whence its model was drawn, I could not but think it as well adapted to its new as to its original station. The whole settlement forms a pretty cluster; the paths and road- sides are planted with pine-apples; the soil is deep and fertile, and through an excess of moisture, yields a rank vegetation. The church is of mammoth dimensions, and will, it is said, accom- modate as many as seven thousand persons. It is now rapidly falling into decay, and another is in progress of erection. Many of the native houses are surrounded with bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, and have a fine view of the bay. During our passage from Oahu, it was arranged that each of the i 124 MAUNA LOA. natives employed by us should be designated by a tin disk, in order to keep them in some sort of order or discipline. These were painted of different colours, so that the wearers might be known to us and mustered, without having recourse to their names or asking any ques- tions. It was intended to divide them into companies of fifty, with a petty chief and one of our interpreters to each. Dr. Judd very kindly arranged all the preliminaries with Pea, the king’s agent for the dis- trict of Hilo, and the keeper of his fish-ponds, whom his majesty Kamehameha had authorized to employ the people for our service. The natives had consequently been ordered to assemble and assist us as we might require. The king had likewise ordered a large number of hogs to be collected as a present, and Pea was further instructed to make a provision of taro, poe, &c. In consequence of these arrangements, the natives assembled, and were divided into companies; the terms of their employment were agreed on, for taking loads to the mountain and bringing them back ; their names and numbers were all entered in a book by the scribes, as we termed the interpreters, or Lahaina scholars. At the head of these scribes was one Kalumo, a young man of great intelligence, but somewhat, as we soon found, inclined to dissipation. The articles of every description were now arranged in loads, some for one native, others for two, and a few of the heavy and large ones for four. Each of these loads had a number attached to it; and they were, previous to the day of departure, arranged in proper order. The time fixed for setting out was Monday, the 14th of December. Beside about two hundred natives, the party consisted of Lieu- tenant Budd, Passed Midshipman Eld, Midshipman Elliott, Mr. Brinsmade, Dr. Pickering, Mr. Brackenridge, Dr. Judd, myself, and ten men, including our servants from the ship. This was a large party ; but when it is considered, that besides our instruments, tents, é&c., provisions were to be carried, it will not be considered so dispro- portionate, especially as it generally requires one-third of the number, if not more, to carry provisions for the rest. Having arranged every thing with Lieutenant Carr, who was left in charge of the ship, for the duties to be performed by him, I set out, at an early hour, to join the host at the Point. Here I found every thing in confusion ; our chief scribe, Kalumo, who had the books con- taining the lists, was missing, and there was an uproar resembling that of Bedlam. Having very willingly committed all the arrangements, MAUNA LOA. 125 as well as the management of the natives, to Dr. Judd, I had nothing to do but look on. In consequence of the absence of Kalumo, the natives had an oppor- tunity of trying the weight of some of the bundles, and before he was forthcoming, many of the lightest loads had very adroitly been carried off. No person, who has not seen a large collection of South Sea natives, can imagine the noise and confusion that prevailed. Many natives belonging to Kanuha’s district had not been engaged, and were of course on the spot, to look on, talk, and dispute. In consequence of the conduct of Kalumo, it was soon found that there would be many loads for which we had no bearers, and these were, of course, all those of bulk and weight; but how to remedy this state of things was beyond our power to conceive. To stop those who had gone on, and oblige them to return, was impossible. Several hours of the day had already been employed in making up the loads, and the day was fast wearing away ; for two o’clock had now arrived. Recourse was had to Kanuha, the chief of Hilo, who had the name of being a great extortioner. He came, and as he well understood our situation, showed his modesty in asking only twice as much as had been promised to those who had gone before. ‘There was, how- ever, no remedy, and the bargain was made; but it was some conso- lation that the loads his people took were twice as heavy as those the others bore. It was amusing to see how this chief operated with his people. Numbers of bearers were soon obtained, and the loads sent off without any further difficulty. The character of Kanuha for energy had not been acquired without some reason, and his authority over those be- longing to his district was fully evident. I was delighted when I saw the last package off, and the whole of the bearers winding their way on the road for the mountain. The officers who had been assigned to the different detachments, received orders not to suffer any to stray from the path. Ata short distance from Waiakea, we passed the royal fish-ponds, from which, during my stay at Hilo, by order of the king, my table was constantly supplied with the fine fresh-water mullet that had been taken from the sea when small, as before described. I have fre- quently had an opportunity of tasting both kinds at the same meal; and I was not quite so well convinced of the superiority of the fresh over the salt-water fish as the natives appear to be. ‘The diffe- rence, however, may be much greater when they are eaten raw, which VOL. Iv. 32 126 MAUNA LOA. is the favourite mode of the natives, and which I had not curiosity sufficient to induce me to attempt. In and around these ponds is a very fine species of duck, of which we obtained many. The natives have a mode of catching them which iS Ingenious: a string is tied to a small stick two or three inches in length, and the other end to a stone of two or three pounds weight, which lies on the bottom of the pond. The stick, which floats on the surface, is baited with a small fish, which the duck pounces upon, and swallows; in attempting to fly away, the stick is crossed in the throat, so that the duck, who is unable to carry off the stone, is secured. In two hours, we had travelled about five miles, and had ascended five hundred feet. The road proved tolerably good, although it scarcely admitted two persons to walk abreast. We passed the hill, described by Lord Byron’s party, which it would have been difficult to recognise had it not been pointed out, on account of its gradual rise. This hill afforded a magnificent view of Hilo Bay, and of the surrounding country below us. Six miles from Hilo we entered the first wood, and at 6 P. M. we passed, at eight miles distance, the chasm that divides the Hilo from the Puna district. As the darkness set in, we began to experience the difficulties we had anticipated from our late start; the bustle and noise became every moment more audible along the whole line as the night advanced: what added not a little to our discomfort, was the bad road we now had to encounter, rendered worse as each native passed on in the tracks of those preceding him, until at last it became in places quite miry. We continued on, however, until we found most of the natives had come to a stand, and were lying about among the grass by the roadside near a few grass-houses. One of these was hired for our accommodation and to protect us from the heavy dew, to which the natives seemed accustomed ; here we proposed to stay until the moon arose, and in the interim to get what little rest we could. After it became sufficiently light, we again set out with a part of our host. The'cloud of the voleano of Kilauea lay before us, like a pillar of fire, to guide us on our way. We reached Olaa, the habita- tion of Pea, about half-past four. Here we found Messrs. Waldron and Drayton, who had preceded us, taking their breakfast on a large round of bauf a la mode and coffee, in which we all cheerfully jomed. We concluded to stop here MAUNA LOA. 127 until eight o’clock, to allow time for the natives to cook their food and serve out the rations of poe. It will scarcely be possible to form a full idea of our company : that of my Lord Byron is described as a sort of triumphal procession ; ours was very different from this, and was more allied toa May-day morning in New York, or a vast caravan. It consisted, as my friend Dr. Judd informed me, of two hundred bearers of burdens, forty hogs, a bullock and bullock-hunter, fifty bearers of poe (native food), twenty-five with calabashes, of different sizes and shapes, from two feet to six inches in diameter. Some of the bearers had large and small panels of the portable house on their backs; others, frying-pans or kettles; and others tents or knapsacks. Then there were lame horses, which, instead of carrying their riders, were led by them; besides a large number of hangers-on, in the shape of mothers, wives, and children, equalling in number the bearers, all grumbling and com- plaining of their loads; so that wherever and whenever we stopped, confusion and noise ensued. I felt happy in not understanding the language, and of course was deaf to their complaints. It was very evident that the loads were unequally divided; and I must do the natives the justice to say, they had reason to complain, not of us, but of each other. It was impossible for the thing to be remedied at once, although it was not a little provoking to see several natives staggering under their loads, while one or two would be skipping along with a few pounds’ weight only. At first, many of them pre- ferred the hog-driving business ; but I understood that they afterwards found out that it was no sinecure to drive a hog either of large or small size, and still less so to have charge of the bullock, who was half wild. The terror and fright he produced among the natives, proved a source of much amusement to us; and some droll scenes took place as the natives rushed in all directions to get beyond the reach of his horns, throwing down their loads without regard to the consequences. This was, however, prevented afterwards, by sending on the bullock, with his attachés or drivers, in front. I found Olaa to be one thousand one hundred and thirty-eight feet above the level of the sea, and the temperature there was 72°. While we were getting a slight nap, Dr. Judd was engaged ‘in superintending the distribution of food to the multitude, during which time much confusion and noise existed. The natives put me in mind of wild beasts in this respect; they seldom make any noise, unless their appetite and ease are in some way concerned. 128 MAUNA LOA. Among the party we had several white men as interpreters, besides our native guides, who formed as it were a connecting link between ourselves and the natives proper. ‘The whole was in keeping, for all had set out for a hard and rough journey; and knowing we had an arduous task to perform, we were all appropriately clothed for work. The dress of the natives consisted of the maro and a light piece of tapa-cloth, worn as a shawl, which, when working, was usually wrapped around their bodies. In order to protect the feet, they were each furnished with a pair of raw-hide sandals, which they tie on their feet as boys do their skates. ‘These are put on so as to cover the palms of the feet. For want of hide, some made sandals of ti- leaves, which answer the purpose quite as well for a time, though they are not so durable, and walking in them causes an awkward gait. The whole company was a sort of mob, each moving after his own fashion, and straggling occasionally out of the path to save a few yards of distance. The chief Pea and his body-guard brought up the rear, to pick up stragglers and assist the weary. After leaving Olaa, we had no distinct path to follow; for the whole surface became a mass of lava, which retained all its metallic lustre, and appeared as if it had but just run over the ground—so small was the action of decomposition. There were only a few stunted bushes on our track; but some dense patches of wood were observed on the right. ‘The day was warm, with a bright sun; and when we passed pools of water standing in the lava rock, as we frequently did, the natives would rush into them like over-heated dogs, and seemed to enjoy the temporary coolness brought about by the evaporation. The lava had a peculiar metallic appearance, and had evidently run over the surface in a melted state. The natives call this smooth kind pahoihoi, which is the same word they use for satin. ‘This, after running smooth for some distance, would assume a wrinkled or wavy form, showing that the mass had been pressed forward, in cooling. The melted rocky stream, in places where the descent was rapid, appears to have been urged forward with some velocity, and as the surface cooled and became fixed, the melted matter has run out from beneath, leaving a kind of trench or tunnel, which, in some places, is of considerable size. ‘The localities of the tunnels are pointed out by the hollow sound experienced in passing over them. At 3p. M., we reached Kapuauhi, which consists of a few houses, and is about fifteen miles from Olaa. The temperature, on our MAUNA LOA. 129 ~ arrival, was found to be 80° in the shade, while in the sun it stood at 84°; the whole extent around was black lava; indeed there was no place where we could pitch a tent of six feet by eight, and as it looked like rain we concluded to occupy one of the houses that was offered to us; but it taught us a lesson we remembered for some time, for all our blankets and clothes became infested with fleas, and those of the most voracious kind. Dr. Judd, finding that some of the natives were overloaded, sent back for a reserve of thirty men, to overtake us as soon as possible. Several of the packages were unwieldy, and others, though small, were much complained of ; among the latter was a small iron mortar, or eprouvette, which I was taking up to try some experiments on sound, in the rarefied air; this had been a great pest to the natives, and they had made every endeavour to get rid of it. As there was some difficulty in getting our host awake, and ready for a move betimes, it was proposed that the mortar should be fired at early dawn; although small, yet with a well-adjusted plug driven into it, it made the noise of a great gun. It was accordingly fired the next morning to the wonder of all, and soon aroused the mob. Such was the effect this had upon the bearers of it, that no more complaints were uttered, and they joyfully shouldered their burden, having become men of great consequence in the eyes of their fellows, and subjects of the day’s talk. Many now would have exchanged loads for the honour of being the bearers of it. The height we had now attained was two thousand one hundred and eighty-four feet; the thermometer, 72°; the lowest temperature in the night, 58°. A slight shower of rain fell during the night. At 8 a. m., we left Kapuauhi, or what our company called “ Flea Hall,” after having passed a most comfortless night. Nothing could be more annoying than the swarms of fleas that attacked us, and I believe all the native houses are thus unpleasantly infested. In about three hours we reached the Okea tree, known as the boundary of the territory of Pele, or the goddess of the voleano. In bygone days no native dared venture beyond it without an offering to Pele, under penalty of her vengeance. Many strange traditions are told of her, and of the combats she waged with the ancient warriors of the island, in which she destroyed whole armies by her “floods of fire.” Dr. Judd and myself, while at the volcano, listened to one of these long traditions from a young man named Kiwe, a descendant of one of the “tradition bearers,” who were employed specially to VOL. Iv. 33 130 MAUNA LOA. hand down the traditions in their family, and were thus the depo- sitaries of the oral archives of the nation. Kiwe came from Panau, in the neighbourhood of this district of fire, and we were, of course, very desirous of obtaining any information he could give. As he had come to offer himself as guide, he was sent for to our hut, and was asked to take a seat. Kalumo, the chief scribe, before spoken of, was sent for, and began to question him relative to the traditions. Kiwe began by describing various great chiefs and their genealogies, but nothing relating to their feats or actions, except that the great chief of Papapala and the goddess Pele had quarrelled about a surf- board, which ended in his being consumed, after having attempted to cross the fiery lake upon it. Many interrogatories were put to him, but he soon became sullen and refused to answer; he told us he had discovered our intention, and that he knew we were going to put what he said in a book, that every body might read it, and there- fore he would give us no further information. This I hope will be received as a sufficient apology for my not giving the histories and details of these marvellous personages; for, according to Kiwe, by relating them he would lose his occupation as soon as they were printed. Soon after we left Kapuauhi, we met with soil formed upon the lava by volcanic ashes; the bushes became thicker and more thrifty, rising into small trees; quantities of strawberry-vines were perceived, but the natives searched in vain for some straggling fruit. The time for its bearing had passed, but they are said to be found in great abundance, and of very fine flavour, at the proper season. Okea was the principal wood, and there was some koa (Acacia). A curious plant was pointed out, the sap of which blisters the skin, and with which the inhabitants produce a sort of tattooing in large and small round lumps. I did not learn how durable they were. This plant is called mau-a-laili. Our course, since we left our resting-place, was nearly south-south- west, and the inclination on which we ascended was not as rapid as it had been. The country on our left was one entire rock, while that to the right was still occupied by the line of forest I have before spoken of, which bounded our view to the west. Just as we reached the great plain of the volcano, we ap- proached the southern limit of the wood, and, on turning its corner, Mauna Loa burst upon us in all its grandeur. The day was extremely fine, the atmosphere pure and clear, except a few flying MAUNA LOA. 131 clouds, and this immense dome rose before us from a plain some twenty miles in breadth. I had not, until then, formed any adequate idea of its magnitude and height. The whole dome appeared of a bronze colour, and its uninterrupted smooth outline was relieved against the deep blue of a tropical sky. Masses of clouds were float- ing around it, throwing their shadows distinctly on its sides, to which they gave occasional relief and variety. ‘There was a bluish haze resting on the plain, that apparently gave it great distance, though this was partially counteracted by the distinctness of the dome. I now, for the first time, felt the magnitude of the task I had undertaken. So striking was the mountain, that I was surprised and disap- pointed when called upon by my friend, Dr. Judd, to look at the volcano ; for I saw nothing before us but a huge pit, black, ill-looking, and totally different from what I had anticipated. There were no jets of fire, no eruptions of heated stones, no cones, nothing but a depression, that, in the midst of the vast plain by which it is sur- rounded, appeared small and insignificant. At the further end was what appeared a small cherry-red spot whence vapour was issuing, and condensing above into a cloud of silvery brightness. This cloud, however, was the most glorious of any I had ever beheld, and the sight of it alone would have repaid for the trouble of coming thus far. We hurried to the edge of the cavity, in order to get a view of its interior, and as we approached, vapour issuing from numerous cracks, showed that we were passing over ground beneath which fire was raging. ‘The rushing of the wind past us was as if it were drawn inwards to support the combustion of some mighty conflagration. When the edge is reached, the extent of the cavity becomes appa- rent, and its depth became sensible by comparison with the figures of some of our party who had already descended. The vastness thus made sensible, transfixes the mind with astonishment, and every instant the impression of grandeur and magnitude increases. To give an idea of its capacity, the city of New York might be placed within it, and when at its bottom would be hardly noticed, for it is three and a half miles long, two and a half wide, and over a thousand feet deep. A black ledge surrounds it at the depth of six hundred and sixty feet, and thence to the bottom is three hundred and eighty- four feet. The bottom looks, in the daytime, like a heap of smoulder- 132 MAUNA LOA. ing ruins. The descent to the ledge appears to the sight a short and easy task, but it takes an hour to accomplish. We pitched our tents in full view of the volcano, on its western side, and the natives busied themselves in building temporary huts to shelter them from the cold blast that rushed by. All this was accom- plished, and we had time to take another view of the crater before dark. All usual ideas of volcanic craters are dissipated upon seeing this. There is no elevated cone, no igneous matter or rocks ejected beyond the rim. The banks appear as if built of massive blocks, which are in places clothed with ferns, nourished by the issuing vapours. What is wonderful in the day, becomes ten times more so at night. The immense pool of cherry-red liquid lava, in a state of violent ebul- lition, illuminates the whole expanse, and flows in all directions like water, while the illuminated cloud hangs over it like a vast canopy. The bank near us was covered with half-naked natives, two hundred or more in number, all gazing, with affrighted looks and savage wonder, on this surprising phenomenon. ‘Their ancestors would not have dared thus to look upon and into this dreaded abode of the malicious goddess Pele, never having approached it without the greatest fear and awe, and then only to deliver their offering by casting it into the burning pool, to secure a safe transit through her territory. We sat on its northern bank for a long time in silence, until one of the party proposed we should endeavour to reach the bank nearest to and over the lake; and having placed ourselves under the direction of Mr. Drayton, we followed him along the edge of the western bank ; but although he had been over the ground the day before, he now lost his way, and we found ourselves still on the upper bank, after walk- ing two-or three miles. We then resolved to return to the first place that appeared suitable for making a descent, and at last one was found, which, however, proved steep and rugged. In the dark- ness we got many a fall, and received numerous bruises; but we were too near the point of our destination to turn back without fully satisfying our curiosity. We finally reached the second ledge, and soon came to the edge of it; we were then directly over the pool or lake of fire, at the distance of about five hundred feet above it, and the light was so strong that it enabled me to read the smallest print. MAUNA LOA. 133 This pool is fifteen hundred long by one thousand feet wide, and of an oval figure. I was struck with the absence of any noise, except a low murmur- ing, like that which is heard from the boiling of a thick liquid. The ebullition was, (as is the case where the heat is applied to one side of a vessel,) most violent near the northern side. The vapour and steam that were constantly escaping, were so rarefied as not to impede the view, and only became visible in the bright cloud above us, which seemed to sink and rise alternately. We occasionally perceived stones, or masses of red-hot matter, ejected to the height of seventy feet, and falling back into the lake again. The lake was apparently rising, and wanted but a few feet of over- flowing its banks. When I began to reflect upon the position we were in, its insecurity, and the vast and deep fires beneath, with the high basaltic walls encompassing us on all sides, the sulphurous fumes and broad glare, throwimg such enormous masses of stone in strong relief by their own fusion, I found it difficult to comprehend how such a reservoir can thus be pent up, and be viewed in such close proximity, without accident or danger. The whole party was perfectly silent, and the countenance of each individual expressed the feeling of awe and wonder which I felt in so great a degree myself, and which the scene was so well calculated. to excite. No one can see all this and yet doubt the theory of the igneous fluidity of the centre of the earth. All combustible causes that we are acquainted with, are totally inadequate to produce such an effect. The whole seemed boiling up like a fountain, differing only in den- sity and colour. The apparent flow to its southern part, is only because the ebulli- tion on the north side causes it to be higher, and the waves it produces consequently pass over to the opposite side. We returned to our tents towards midnight, much fatigued, but found sleep impossible after the excitement of such a scene. At daylight the thermometer stood at 43°, and there was much deposit from the steam-holes. The barometrical height of the en- campment on the west side of the crater, was found to be three thousand nine hundred and seventy feet. The mortar was again fired, and soon after a rebellion was found to exist among the natives in the camp, that threatened to upset all our plans; and, in consequence of it, we were obliged to defer our departure. Dr. Judd soon detected the ringleaders, one in particular, VOL. IV. 34 134 MAUNA LOA. who was holding forth to the Kanakas, advising them, as they now had me in their power, to strike for higher wages; for, if they did so, we should be obliged to pay them double, or any thing extra they might ask for. He was at once made an example of by being turned out of the camp, and sent away. This had the desired effect, and the rest signified their willimgness to go forward; but as many of them desired rest on account of their sore shoulders, we assured them we would remain for a while, pro- vided there was no further difficulty. From this I well knew that no confidence was to be placed in the natives. I at once despatched an order to Lieutenant Carr, on board the Vincennes, to send on a detachment of fifty men, under officers, as quickly as possible, and likewise to forward an extra supply of provisions with them to meet our wants. I now employed the day in making observations for the longitude and latitude. Some of the officers were engaged in distributing the loads more equally, and others in descending into the crater. As I proposed remaining here a few days on my return, | deter- mined to await until then for the exploration of this volcano. Some of the observations then made will be noticed at present, that the nature of the lavas may be more fully understood. This day was employed in becoming acquainted with its paths, and in making sketches. One made by Mr. Drayton, with the camera lucida, is very characteristic, and was taken from one of the best positions for viewing this wonderful place, on the north bank, near its west side. ‘These sketches I conceived would enable me to ascertain if any, and what, alterations should take place between our two visits, for I could not but imagine it must be constantly undergoing change. For this purpose we multiplied our camera lucida drawings, and I descended again nearly to the black ledge for this purpose. The pathway leads down on the northeast side, over frightful chasms, some- times on a mere edge of earth, and on rocks rent asunder to the depth of several hundred feet. ‘Through these fissures steam issues, which as it reaches the upper part, condenses, and gives nourishment to masses of ferns, and an abundance of small bushes (Vaccinium), bearing a small berry of an agreeable flavour, called by the natives ohela. ‘The descent, however, is not in reality difficult, except in a few places, where it requires some care in passing over the basaltic blocks, that are here piled in confused heaps. On approaching the black ledge, which from above appeared level and smooth, it is seen to be covered with large pieces of lava, rising in places into cones One! ay, A anit X MAUNA LOA. 135 thirty or forty feet high, which are apparently bound down by huge tortuous masses, which surround them like cables. In other places these are stretched lengthwise on the level ledge, and look like hideous fiery serpents with black vitreous scales, that occasionally give out smoke, and in some cases fire. The immense space which I have described the crater as covering, is gradually filled with the fluid mass of lava to a certain point, above which the walls, or the surrounding soil, are no longer able to bear the pressure. It then finds vent by an eruption, previous to which, however, a large part that is next to the walls of the crater has in a measure become cooled, and remains fixed at the level it had attained. After the eruption, the central mass therefore alone sub- sides three or four hundred feet, and leaves the portion that has become solid, forming a kind of terrace or shelf: this is what consti- tutes the “black ledge,” and is one of the most striking features of the crater. Its surface is comparatively level, though somewhat uneven, and is generally coated with a vitreous and in some places a scoriaceous lava, from half an inch to an inch thick, very iridescent and brittle. In walking over this crust, it crumbles and cracks under the feet ; it seems to be easily decomposed, and in some places had lost its lustre, having acquired a grayish colour and become friable. There was another variety of the vitreous lava, which was smooth and brittle: this occurred in the large hollow tunnels or trenches, the insides of which were rough, and full of sharp and vitreous points. On the turnings and windings small swellings were met, which on being broken off, had a strong resemblance to the bottom of a junk- bottle; at another place, fragments appeared to have been scattered around in a semi-fluid state, in an endless variety of shapes, and so brittle as to be preserved with difficulty. Underneath these was to be seen the real lava or basalt, as firm and solid as granite, with no ap- pearance of cells, and extremely compact; it is seen separated into large blocks, but none that I saw were of a regular figure, though in some places it was thought by others to approach the hexagonal form. There is a third kind of lava, fibrous in its texture, of quite recent ejection, and procured from the bottom of the crater: this had some- what the appearance of a dark pumice, but was dense in comparison. On the black ledge the absence of all debris from those high perpen- dicular walls, cannot fail to be remarked ; we endeavoured to find an explanation of this, but I was not satisfied with the only one which presented itself. This was to suppose that the fluid mass had recently 136 MAUNA LOA. risen above the ledge, altogether concealing it from view, and that it had entirely fused its surface. The appearances did not satisfy me that this had been the case, nor did the supposition account for the fact, that none had been collected within the last few months ; besides, it might be supposed that some portion of the former accumulation ought to have been discoverable, which it was not. To walk on the black ledge is not always safe, and persons who venture it are compelled for safety to carry a pole and feel before they tread over the deceitful path, as though they were moving on doubtful ice. The crackling noise made in walking over this crisp surface (like a coating of blue and yellow glass) resembles that made by walking on frozen snow in very cold weather. Every here and there are seen dark pits and vaulted caverns, with heated air rushing from them. Large and extended cracks are passed over, the air issuing from which, at a temperature of 180°, is almost. stifling; masses are surmounted that it would seem as if the accumulated weight of a few persons would cause to topple over, and plunge the whole into the fiery pool beneath. On approaching the large lake at the southern end of the crater, the heat becomes almost too stifling to bear. I shall not soon forget my employment therein, in measuring a base to ascertain the extent and capacity of the lake, of which some account will be given here- after. At about two-thirds of the distance from the north end are extensive sulphur banks, from the fissures in which much steam is continually escaping: in these fissures are seen many beautiful crys- tals, adhering to their sides; while on the bank itself, some specimens of sulphate of copper, in beautiful blue crystals, were found. From many places on the black ledge a bluish smoke was seen issuing, smelling strongly of sulphur, and marked by an efflore- scence of a white tasteless powder among the cavities: this it was difficult to detach without scalding the fingers. There were many cracks where our sticks were set on fire, and some places in the vaulted chambers beneath, where the rock might be seen red hot. The black ledge is of various widths, from six hundred to two thousand feet. It extends all around the cavity, but it is seldom possible to pass around that portion of it near the burning lake, not only on account of the stifling fumes, but of the intense heat. In returning from the neighbourhood of the lake to the point where we began the ascent, we were one hour and ten minutes of what we considered hard walking; and in another hour we reached the top of is) Y the bank. ‘This will probably give the best idea of its extent and the MAUNA LOA. 137 distance to be passed over in the ascent from the black ledge, which was found six hundred and sixty feet below the rim. To the bottom of the crater, there was a descent at the northwest angle of the black ledge, where a portion of it had fallen in, and afforded an inclined plane to the bottom. ‘This at first appeared smooth and easy to descend, but on trial it proved somewhat diffi- cult, for there were many fissures crossing the path at right angles, which it was necessary to get over, and the vitreous crust was so full of sharp spicule as to injure the hands and cut the shoes at every step. Messrs. Waldron and Drayton in their descent were accom- panied by my dog Sydney, who had reached this distance, when his feet became so much wounded that they were compelled to drive him back ; he was lamed for several days afterwards, in consequence of this short trip into the crater. These gentlemen, after much toil, finally reached the floor of the crater. This was afterwards found to be three hundred and eighty- four feet below the black ledge, making the whole depth nine hundred and eighty-seven feet below the northern rim. Like the black ledge, it was not found to have the level and even surface it had appeared from above to possess: hillocks and ridges, from twenty to thirty feet high, ran across it, and were in some places so perpendicular as to render it difficult to pass over them. ‘The distance they traversed below was deceptive, and they had no means of ascertaining it but by the time it took to walk it, which was upwards of two hours, from the north extreme of the bottom to the margin of the large lake. It is extremely difficult to reach this lake, on account of its overflowing at short intervals, which does not allow the fluid mass time to cool. The nearest approach that any one of the party made to it at this time was about fifteen hundred or two thousand feet; they were then near enough to burn their shoes and light their sticks in the lava which had overflowed during the preceding night. The smaller lake was well viewed from a slight eminence: this lake was slightly in action; the globules, (if large masses of red fluid lava, several tons in weight, can be so called,) were seen heaving up at regular intervals, six or eight feet in height; and smaller ones were thrown up to a much greater elevation. At the distance of fifty feet no gases were to be seen, nor was any steam evident, yet a thin smoke-like vapour arose from the whole fluid surface: no puffs of smoke were perceived at any time. At first it seemed quite possible to pass over the congealed surface VOL. Iv. 35 138 MAUNA LOA. of the lake, to within reach of the fluid, though the spot on which they stood was so hot as to require their sticks to be laid down to stand on. This idea was not long indulged in, for in a short time the fluid mass began to enlarge; presently a portion would crack and exhibit a bright red glare; then in a few moments the red lava-stream would issue through, and a portion would speedily split off and suddenly disappear in the liquid mass. This kind of action went on until the lake had extended itself to its outer bank, and had approached to within fifteen feet of their position, when the guide said it was high time to make a retreat. John, the pilot, who was now acting in the capacity of guide, was satisfied they had stayed long enough, and had often “repeated that there was no safety in the bottom of the crater for one moment,” and that “the fire would often run over ten or more acres in a few moments.” In such a case destruction would be inevitable, and from what I myself have seen, I can readily believe that his opinion is correct. ‘The usual course is for the lake to boil over, discharge a certain mass, and then sink again within its limits. It is rarely seen to run over for more than a day at a time. John and the natives who are in the habit of frequenting it with strangers, tell many stories of the escapes they have made. One trip to the floor generally satisfies the most daring, and as long as a person remains there, he must feel in a state of great insecurity, and in danger of undergoing one of the most horrible of deaths, in being cut off from escape by the red molten fluid; yet a hardihood is acquired, which is brought about by the excitement, that gives courage to encounter serious peril, in so novel a situation. One of the remarkable productions of this crater is the capillary glass, or, as it is here called, “ Pele’s hair.” This is to be seen in the crevices like loose tufts of fine tow; it is to be found also over all the plain, adhering to the bushes. ‘The fibres of this glass are of various degrees of fineness; some are crimped or frizzled, others straight, with small fine drops of glass at one end. ‘These adhering to the berries in the neighbourhood, make one sensible of its presence in eating them. On the leeward side of the crater, the glass is so abundant that the ground, in places, appeared as if covered with cobwebs. Where Pele’s hair is found in quantities, a very fine and beautiful pumice prevails; it usually occurs in pieces about the size of a hazel- nut, of a greenish yellow colour, not unlike small pieces of new dry MAUNA LOA. 139 sponge, but so much lighter as to be blown about by the wind. The southern bank of the crater is covered with this product for some depth, and the sand blowing over it renders it stationary. The day we remained at the voleano was employed by the natives in preparing their food, by boiling it in the crevices on the plains from which the steam issues; into these they put the taro, &c., and close the hole up with fern-leaves, and in a short time the food was well cooked. All the water for drinking is obtained here by the con- densation of the steam, which gathers in small pools, and affords a supply of sweet and soft water. From the numbers in the camp who used it, this supply became rather scanty, but it did not entirely give out. The crater, at night, was extremely beautiful, and we sat for a long time watching its changing and glowing pool. The shadows thrown by the walls of the crater seemed to reach the heavens, and gave it the appearance of being clothed in a dark cloud; but on looking at it attentively, and shutting off the glare of the crater, the stars were per- ceived shining brightly. About four o’clock a loud report was heard from the direction of the boiling lake, which proved to have been caused by a large pro- jecting point of the black ledge near the lake having fallen in and disappeared. The lowest temperature, during the night, was 48°. There was a light wind and no dew. At dawn on the morning of the 18th, the signal called us to make preparations for our journey, and as all things had now been more systematically arranged, we anticipated less difficulty in our onward journey. ‘The natives seemed to be all in good spirits, and moved with alacrity. Our camp hitherto (as all camps are) had been beset with hangers- on, in the shape of wives, mothers, and children, who were not only much in the way of those to whom they belonged, but were great consumers of the food the natives had supplied themselves with for the journey. As we already entertained apprehensions of a scarcity, prompt measures were taken by Dr. Judd to get rid of our trouble- some guests, which we succeeded in doing, though not without some difficulty, and a low monotonous growling, that indicated much dis- pleasure on the part of the fair sex. The divisions now set off, and our host was less mob-like, partly owing to the impossibility of going in squads, the paths having become more contracted. 140 MAUNA LOA. The water that I have mentioned as being found in the small pools, the product of condensation, was exhausted before we left the crater. This was in consequence of the natives having filled their calabashes ; and we had particularly instructed our servants and the sailors to do the same. The former provided themselves; but the latter, sailor- like, preferred to take their chance of meeting with it on the road, rather than carry a load for their future supply. I discovered, after we started, that they were unprovided, but was informed that there was, within about two miles, an old canoe which would be found full of water. On our arrival at it, we found that the natives, who had preceded us, after supplying themselves had emptied out the rest. Our route was taken at first and for a few miles in a due west line, for the top of Mauna Loa, over the extensive plain surrounding the volcano; it then deviated to the southward, over an ancient lava-bed, very much broken, that appeared never to have been traversed before. We now became for the first time acquainted with clinkers. To describe these, it is merely necessary to say, they are like the scoria from a foundry, only instead of being the size of the fist, they are from one to ten feet square, and armed on all sides with sharp points ; they are for the most part loose, and what makes them still more dangerous, is that a great deal of the vitreous lava is among them. Of the origin of these immense masses and their extent, I shall have occasion to speak hereafter: suffice it for the present to say, there never was more difficult or unpleasant ground to travel over. Our guide Puhano of Puna, who we understood had accompanied Douglass and Lowenstern on their ascents, now took the lead, but it soon appeared that he knew little of the route. I therefore, in com- pany with Mr. Brinsmade, took the lead, compass in hand ; and after walking over the broken and torn-up ground, we turned again towards the hill-side, and began a rapid ascent through a belt of long grass, where the rock was covered with white clay, and seldom to be seen. ‘This part appeared to have suffered much from drought ; for in passing along we came to several narrow and dry water-courses, but met with no water. At two o'clock we had nearly reached the upper limit of the woods, and as the clouds began to pass over, and obscure the path, we determined to halt and encamp. We made several fires along the route, in order to guide those behind, and as a mark for the stragglers ; bushes were also broken off, and their tops laid in the direction we were going, by the natives; and I likewise had the trees blazed, as a further indication, well known to our men, Chronometer sights MAUNA LOA. 141 were taken here, and the altitude by barometer was five thousand and eighty-six feet. During the day, the reason that had induced the natives to empty the water out from the canoe, became evident in their anxiety to sell us water. My friend the consul had hired an especial bearer for his calabash of water, determining that he would have a sufficient supply. By our watching and cautioning the old man who had it in charge, he became somewhat alarmed and unsteady, as I thought also from fajgoue. When he had arrived within a short distance of the camp, he “stumbled on a smooth place, fell, and broke the calabash into numerous pieces. ‘Those who were coming up, seeing the accident, rushed to partake of its contents, but the fluid quickly disappeared in the loose and absorbent lava. This was a dreadful blow to my friend’s feelings, and produced much laughter among us, in which the consul himself at length joined; although I must confess I was somewhat of his opinion, that it had been done designedly, either to secure the sale of that belonging to others, or to get rid of the load, which had been a great annoyance and trouble to the bearer all day, and for which he had already been paid. On the baggage coming up, Mr. Eld reported a deserter, who was brought up for trial, and an investigation had, in order to make an example of him. He was a swarthy and diminutive-looking person, with rather a good countenance, but it was just then so distorted with fright, that it was impossible to look at him without laughing. It appeared that he had been left by his chief at the crater, to super- intend some hogs and provisions that belonged to the party ; while thus employed, Mr. Eld, the officer in charge of the rear, wanted another person to carry on the clock-case, as one of the four that were attached to it had not been forthcoming; he in consequence had pressed the culprit into the service against his will, taking him from the station where his chief had placed him. On the route over some of the roughest part, seeing this man somewhat fatigued, Mr. Eld kindly relieved him for a few moments, of which he took advantage and disappeared. Mr. Eld immediately left the load and gave chase, but in a few moments he stumbled and fell over the clinkers, by which he received a contusion on the knee; rising with the prospect of having to aid in transporting the clock, he discovered the delinquent concealed under a neighbouring bush, and imme- diately forced him to return to his load, and thus brought him on. Mr. Eld, on hearing the facts of the case told by the native, inter- VOL. Iv. 36 142 MAUNA LOA. ceded in his behalf, and Dr. Judd, after giving him an admonition, set him at liberty to return to his charge at the volcano. We were now for a long time enveloped in mist, for we had reached the region of clouds. ‘The thermometer at 6 P. M., stood at 54°; the dew-point at 44°. Instead of trade-winds from the northeast, we had a mountain breeze from the west, which caused the tempe- rature to fall to 43°, and produced a feeling of great cold, being a fall of forty degrees since we left the coast. The men whom we had hired just before leaving Hilo, belonged, as will be recollected, to Kanuha’s district, and engaged to find them- selves in food ; but many of them had been so improvident of their supply that it was now found to be gone, and as many as twenty of them were without any thing to eat. When this became known, we proposed to supply them with rations at the original cost of the poe, which we had for the men hired of Pea; but no argument would induce them to accept it on these terms, and they went round begging and borrowing all they could from those who were supplied. The reason that they would not buy the poe I found was, the dislike they had to take up any of their wages before the whole became due, and in consequence many of them went hungry. It was amusing to watch some of these, who frequently would seat themselves near a party who were eating ; but it did not produce any effect upon those who had plenty, as they knew the reason of their being without food. From what I saw of these islanders on this trip, lam not disposed to believe them so hospitable, or so thoughtful of each other, as the 'Tahitians or Samoans. Selfishness is a predominant trait in the character of the Hawaiians, and when they are thus associated together, it shows itself more strongly than at other times. At sunrise on the 19th, we had the temperature at 48°. As the ascent was now becoming laborious, we selected and left the things we had no immediate use for, to follow us by easy stages. We then took a diagonal direction through the remaining portion of the woods. By one o’clock we had lost all signs of trees, and were surrounded by low scraggy bushes: the change of vegetation became evident, not only in species, but in size; we also passed through extensive patches that had been destroyed by fire. Sandalwood was seen, not as a tree, but a low shrub. During the day we had passed extensive caves, in all of which I had search made for water. ‘These often lead a long distance under ground, and some of the men passed in at one end and out at another. MAUNA LOA. 143 Intending to stop on Sunday not far above these caves, calabash- tops were left in one or two where water was found to be dropping, in hopes by this means to procure a small supply; but on returning the next day, if was found that very little had accumulated. 'These caves or tunnels had apparently been caused by a flow of lava down the side of the mountain, which on cooling had left the upper part arched or vaulted, the fluid running off at its lower extremity or opening and spreading itself over the surface. The opening into them was formed by the roof having fallen in, and partly blocked up the tunnel. At no great distance from the opening, the floor on each side was smooth and closely resembled the flow of the lava on the surface. These openings were usually known by the quantity of raspberry and other bushes around them ; and they reminded me of the caverns in limestone districts. Between two and three o’clock, we again became enveloped in clouds, and it was necessary for us to redouble our precautions against losing the track. Fires were again resorted to, which at short dis- tances could be seen in the intervals of mist. Deeming it advisable to make an early halt, we stopped shortly after three o’clock, to allow all the baggage to come up. Notwith- standing the size of our party, there was no perceptible track left or any thing by which to be guided, but the smoke of the fires, or occa- sionally a broken shrub, as a finger-post. All the ground was hard metallic-looking lava, and around nothing but a dreary waste. The voice too became fainter, as the atmosphere grew more rarefied. Our encampment was called the Sunday Station, on account of our having remained quietly here on that day. The altitude given by the barometer was six thousand and seventy-one feet, at which we found ourselves above the region of clouds, and could look down upon them. At night, on pulling off my clothes, I noticed the quantity of electrical fluid elicited, which continued for some time to affect the objects about me, particularly a large guanaco-robe I had to sleep in. This afternoon, we found that it would be impossible to drive the bullock any further; for the animal began to suffer from fatigue and the want of water, our supply of which was almost exhausted: he was accordingly killed. The natives were now hawking water about the camp at half a dollar the quart. Iam not aware that they sold any at that extravagant price; but I saw some of them in possession of handkerchiefs and old shirts, which I understood had been given for it. Ragsdale, one of our guides, who had been despatched to Papapala 144 MAUNA LOA. from the crater to purchase provisions, now joined us, with two more guides. He brought information that he had obtained forty goats, and that we should receive full supplies. This was encouraging news, for I felt somewhat doubtful from the first in relying on the natives, and their behaviour at Kilauea was not calculated to raise my opinion of them. I found also, as we ascended the mountain, that even light loads had become heavy, and those of any weight, insup- portable; that our time was rapidly passing, and we had a long way yet before we reached the summit; and that the native food was nearly exhausted, while the supply for our own men was rapidly consuming. The two guides that Ragsdale brought with him, were perfectly familiar with the mountain. One of them was a celebrated bird- catcher, called Keaweehu, who had been the guide of Lowenstern, and knew where water was to be obtained; but it was ten miles distant. He said, that if he was furnished with calabashes and natives to carry them, he would be able to bring us a supply by the afternoon, if he left before the day dawned; and that it would be two days before we could get any snow, even if it were found on the mountain. It had never crossed my mind, that there was any proba- bility of this latter resource failing us; I had in truth relied upon it with confidence, and concluded that in the event of only one snow- storm we should be enabled to find some place for a deposit, to save enough water for all our wants. We now numbered nearly three hundred persons in camp, with but a few small calabashes containing five or six gallons of water ; and all, more or less, felt the effects of the rarefied air. Mr. Brackenridge had a violent attack of the mountain sickness, although one of the stoutest of the party; many of the natives felt unwell; and we all began to experience great soreness about the eyes, and a dryness of the skin. At midday I found it impossible to obtain the dew-poimt with one of Pouillet’s hygrometers, but after the clouds reached us in the afternoon it was found at 10°. Dr. Judd had his hands full administering to the wants of all; but his spirits, always buoyant and cheerful, made every one comfortable and happy around him. Old Keaweehu told us that we had taken the wrong road to the mountain, and that Puhano was not at all acquainted with the right road,—a fact we had long before discovered ; that if we had come by way of Papapala, he would have been able to conduct us by a route we should have found water every few miles. Ragsdale was now MAUNA LOA. 145 sent off to meet the party from the ship, with orders for them to take the route now indicated, and for him to act as their guide. Sergeant Stearns, in his excursions on the flanks of the party, shot some mountain geese, and whether to impute it to the appetite created by the mountain air, or the flavour of the bird, they certainly proved a great delicacy. The 20th, being Sunday, was a day of rest: the natives requested that it might be so, and I readily yielded to their wishes. I was anxious, however, to ascertain the state of the mountain, and whether there was any snow to be had on its top, for I now felt satisfied that the want of water would prove the greatest difficulty I should have to encounter, in remaining there as long as I intended. Lieutenant Budd received orders to set out with a few attendants at daylight; but after making his preparations, and having all things ready, the natives refused to accompany him on account of its being Sunday, as they said. I am, however, inclined to believe that fear had something to do with it, for they never knew of any one having gone up this mountain before, and thought me mad for taking so much trouble to ascend it. They said that I must be in pursuit of gold and silver, or something to sell for money, as I never would take so much trouble, and spend so much money, unless it were to acquire great riches. In the morning Dr. Judd had religious service with the natives, and the day was passed without fatigue. It was a most beautiful day : the atmosphere was mild, and the sun shone brightly on all below us. We enjoyed a clear and well-defined horizon, the clouds all floating below us in huge white masses, of every variety of form, covering an area of a hundred or more miles; passing around as they entered the different currents, where some acquired a rotary motion that I had never before observed. The steam cloud above the volcano was conspicuous, not only from its silvery hue, but by its standing firm, like an immense rock, while all around and beneath it were in motion. The vault overhead was of the most cerulean blue, extending to and blending with the greenish tint of the horizon; while beneath the clouds, the foreground and distant view of the island was of a dark green. The whole scene reminded me of the icy fields of the Southern Ocean; indeed the resemblance was so strong, that it seemed only to require the clouds to have angular instead of cumular Shapes, to have made the similarity complete. It was perceived that as masses of clouds met they appeared to rebound, and I seldom saw them intermingle; they would lie together with their forms somewhat VOL. Iv. 37 146 MAUNA LOA. compressed, and their outlines almost as well preserved as when separated and alone. After three o’clock, when the sun was retiring, the clouds advanced up the mountain side, and finally we became immersed in them. This happened on both days at nearly the same hour. During the day, I succeeded in obtaining sets of observations for latitude and longitude. I experienced for the first time much fatigue in holding the instruments. The barometer and thermometer were observed throughout the day at the hours arranged with the observa- tory at Hilo. In the evening we were much gratified at receiving fifteen gallons of water, which the natives had brought ten miles in open-mouthed vessels, over the rough mountain roads; this they do by placing some fern-leaves on the top of the water, when it carries as well as a solid, and will bear much agitation without spillimg. Though a very small supply for our necessities, it was a great satisfaction to know that it was now within reach of us. Partially relieved from this pressing difficulty, our attention was turned to the fuel, and I at once saw the necessity of providing some means for procuring a supply, as we were now at one of the last points where it was to be obtained. We were certainly two, if not three days’ journey from the summit, and an ascent of eight thousand feet was still to be accomplished. After dark the mist cleared off, when we saw the majestic volcanic cloud hanging as though illuminated in its position. This is one of the best guides for the mountain, both by night and by day; any one who visits Mauna Loa, and the crater, cannot but admire this constant emblem of the destructive elements below, fitted as it is, from its purity, grace, and majestic appearance, to blend harmo- niously with the blue vault above. It was determined to fix a post here, in order to forward supplies of wood and articles of provision as they came from below. Pea, our chief, was accordingly ordered to select a site which would answer this purpose. On Monday, 21st, we set out at an early hour. The ascent now became much steeper than any we had hitherto experienced, for the whole face of the mountain consisted of one mass of lava, that had apparently flowed over in all directions from the summit. The sun shone brightly, and his rays seemed to fall with increased power on the black lava. No wind was stirring, and the exhaustion consequent on the rarefied air we were breathing, made the labour of climbing MAUNA LOA. 147 very fatiguing; many suffered from nausea and headache, and the desire for water redoubled in both whites and natives. For water they could no longer find a substitute in berries, as they had previ- ously done, for that fruit had disappeared, and the only vegetation left was a few tufts of grass. About noon, Dr. Judd volunteered to proceed with the guide to ascertain if there was any snow, and at what distance. It was agreed that we should continue to move on in the same direction, and en- camp when we found we could get no higher. Most of the party were now lying about on the rocks, with the noonday sun pouring on them; a disposition to sleep, and a sensation and listlessness similar to that produced by sea-sickness, seemed to prevail. I felt the former strongly myself, and enjoyed as sound an hour’s sleep on the hard lava as I have ever had. The burdens had become intolerably heavy, and all complained of their inability to carry them. The use of the sextant had become still more fatiguing than the day before, causing me much pain to hold it. From what I myself experienced, I was satisfied that every one’s strength had decreased nearly one-half. We managed, after an hour’s rest, to go on two miles further, and then encamped. No place offered where we could drive a peg for the tents, and loose blocks of lava were resorted to, to confine the cords. The principal inducement for stopping at this spot was the discovery of a large tunnel, or cave, in which the men could be accommodated, and which was at a sufficient distance from the Sunday Station for a day’s journey. This station was afterwards known as the Recruiting Station, because all the sick and wounded from the higher stations were sent here as to an hospital. Long after we had finished our arrangements for the night, and even after it had become dark, we looked in vain for Dr. Judd and his companion. We therefore lighted our fires as a signal to him, and were soon rejoiced to see him safely back. He brought with him a small snow-ball, and the agreeable intelligence that we should find abundance of snow on the top of the mountain, provided we reached it next day; for he told us it was melting fast. He had travelled for more than four hours and a half before he reached the snow, and had been an hour and a half returning down hill, on a run. The point where he met the snow appeared to him to be about equidistant from our present camp and the summit of the mountain. I now felt that the troubles of my scientific operations were begin- ning, for I found that one of the iron cross-bars of the lower part of the 148 MAUNA LOA. pendulum-frame, which had been entrusted to a native to carry, had been broken into two pieces. To provide, however, for mishaps of this description, I had brought the armourer of the Vincennes with me. There would have been no difficulty in his mending it under favourable circumstances ; but, fearing that in our present position he might not succeed, I at once despatched a messenger to the ship, with orders to have a new one made and forwarded as speedily as possible. Although it was somewhat encouraging to know that snow had been found, yet we were apprehensive it might disappear before we could reach it. On holding a consultation, it was thought best that all those who were not absolutely needed for the intended operations on the mountains should make a hasty trip to the top, or terminal crater, and then return to the coast; for our provisions, as well as water, were so low, as in all probability to reduce us to a very short allow- ance. It was, therefore, determined, that the consul, Mr. Bracken- ridge, Mr. Drayton, and Mr. Elliott, should each be supplied with a day’s allowance, and go on at an early hour to the summit, unen- cumbered, in order to satisfy themselves with a sight of it, return before night to the Recruiting Station, and thence proceed down the mountain. I resolved to go on with a few of the instruments, to choose an encampment on the summit. The Recruiting Station was left under charge of Lieutenant Budd, and it was afterwards made a depot for our stores, &c. All the parties set out at an early hour on their several tracks and duties, while some of the officers forwarded the heavy articles; for we now found the necessity of advancing, step by step, towards the summit. The main difficulty was the want of water at the depot, but this I was in hopes might be supplied from above by the return of the parties who were to carry up the instruments, provisions, and wood. My party consisted of the guide, Keaweehu, twelve Kanakas, and seven of our own men, including the sergeant. At about twelve o’clock we reached a spot where the guide pointed out a few half burnt sticks, as the place where Lowenstern had cooked his dinner. As the two Kanakas who had charge of the bundles of wood had contrived to lighten their loads very much by dropping part of it by the way, I gave them orders to take the wood he had left to cook our supper. Mr. Brackenridge passed me on his way from the crater. From him I ascertained we were yet three and a half miles from the ter- MAUNA LOA. 149 minal point. I gave him instructions to repair to the lower country, as there was nothing for him to do in this barren region. The wind blew a strong gale from the southwest, and it was piercingly cold; the thermometer, at 3 Pp. m., showed 25°. For some time previous, I had been obliged to keep the Kanakas before me, to prevent them from throwing their loads down and deserting; but I found them unable to go any further; being nearly naked, they were suffermg much. Seeking a place of shelter under a high bank of clinkers, partly protected from the wind, I allowed them to deposit their loads, and gave them permission to return, upon which they seemed actually to vanish; I never saw such agility dis- played by them before. As soon as the natives who were on the road saw those from the upper party coming down, they could no longer be induced to face the cold, and all deserted at once. ‘The mountain became in consequence a scene of confusion; being strewn with instruments, boxes, pieces of the portable house, tents, calabashes, &c., which the natives had dropped. I now found myself with the guide and nine men, with nothing for a covering but the small tent used for the instruments, and the coming on of a snow-storm, made it very necessary to have something to protect us. ‘The thermometer had gone down to 18°, and most of the men were much affected with the mountain-sickness, with headache and fever, and were unable to do any thing. I felt quite unwell myself from the same cause, having a violent throbbing of the temples and a shortness of breath, that were both painful and dis- tressing. With the few men that remained able to work, I began building a circular wall of the clinkers, to enable us to spread what little canvass we had, over it; all the blankets we could spare were hung inside, which I hoped would keep us from being frozen. After succeeding in this, which occupied us till dark, we made a fire to prepare our scanty supper, and some tea for the sick. I now dis- covered that three of the men were absent; and on inquiry, found that they had gone down, in hopes of finding my tent, which they supposed had been left about a mile below. One may judge of my uneasiness, as it was pitchy dark, and there was no trace whatever of a track, or any thing by which they could find their way back, over many dangerous chasms. I had barely wood enough to heat the water for the sick, and no more than a piece or two of candle, without any lantern, and therefore no obvious means of making a signal. VOL. Iv. 38 150 MAUNA LOA. However, as necessity is the mother of invention, I turned my clothes out of the calabash, and fastening a piece of a cotton shirt over it, made quite a respectable lantern: this was placed on the most conspicuous point. After the light had been extinguished several times, and a series of difficulties encountered in relighting it, we succeeded in establishing our lighthouse; and though a feeble one, it had the de- sired effect. The men, when they first saw it, had already strayed off the track; and had it not been for the lantern, would not have been able to join us again. They came back, crawling on their hands and knees; and had travelled thus for most of the distance. ‘The whole time they had been absent, was two hours and a half. Although I felt very much displeased with their departure without permission, I could not find fault with them,—so much was I rejoiced to see them in safety; and when I knew they had incurred all this fatigue and risk to make me more comfortable. The snow now began to fall fast. My steward, from his thought- fulness, had an ample supply of tea, which he had carried in his knapsack to save it from being plundered; and consequently we had enough to supply all. The supper being ended, we stowed ourselves away within the circular pen; and while the men kept passing their jokes about its comforts, the wind blew a perfect hurricane without. I was glad to find the spirits of those who were sick, began to revive. ‘The ther- mometer had fallen to 15°. The height found by the barometer was thirteen thousand one hundred and ninety feet. All were soon fast asleep; and although there was scarcely a foot of level rock, they seemed to rest as comfortably as possible. I had little inclination to sleep; for difficulties seemed to increase upon me, and I felt some uneasiness about one of my men, named Longley, who had not come up with us. The men all said, that he had returned to the Recruiting Station; having been unwell and unable to proceed. At about four o’clock in the morning, the snow had accumulated in such quantities on our canvass roof, that it broke in upon us, bringing down also some of the stones. This was a disagreeable accident; and after escaping from beneath the ruin, it became necessary to take the covering off and clear the snow out of the pen, which was nearly full. This was the work of nearly an hour of unpleasant labour; but it was much more easily accomplished, than getting ourselves warm again. I need scarcely say, I passed a most uncomfortable night. When daylight came, the storm had somewhat abated in violence, MAUNA LOA. 151 and I despatched the men for the tents and wood, a part of which had been dropped by one of the natives within half a mile of our position. A man soon returned with the wood, and another brought forward a calabash, in which we fortunately found some provisions ; and we soon had what we little expected, something to eat, and what the men called a comfortable breakfast. It was very pleasant to find the sick ones reviving, and good- humour and cheerfulness so predominant among them that they seemed ready for further exertions. We had now all that was neces- sary to push on to the summit. I left a flag on a rocky peak near by ; and this was afterwards called the Flag Station. About eleven o’clock we set out, and were obliged to cross a mass of clinkers, which our guide had hitherto endeavoured to avoid. When, after two hours’ laborious walking, we reached the top or terminal crater, it still continued snowing in squalls, with a keen southwest wind driving in our faces: the ground being covered a foot deep with snow, rendered it more dangerous and irksome to pass over such loose and detached masses. From intelligence that had been brought me by the gentlemen who had gone before and taken a hasty look into the crater, it was thought that the descent into it would prove easy, and that I might encamp on its floor; but I found, after travelling a lone distance over the rugged surface, that it was impossible to succeed in making a descent. I was, therefore, compelled to return, and choose the smoothest place for our encampment I could find. It was after four o’clock, and but little time was left for the men to return. As soon as they had pitched the tent, within about sixty feet of the ledge of the crater, using large blocks of lava to confine its cords, I sent them off under charge of the guide to the Flag Station, and remained with my servants only. By six o’clock I thought that we had made ourselves comfortable for the night, and that the storm had so far moderated that it would not trouble us; but a short hour proved the contrary. Our fire was dispersed, candles blown out, and the tent rocking and flapping as if it would go to pieces, or be torn asunder from its fastenings, and disap- pear before the howling blast. I now felt that what we had passed through on the previous night was comfort in comparison to this. The wind had a fair sweep over us, and as each blast reached the opposite side of the crater, the sound which preceded its coming was at times awful; the tent, however, continued to stand, although it had many holes torn in it, and the ridge-pole had chafed through its top. 152 MAUNA LOA. It was truly refreshing, after the night we had passed, to see the sun rising clear. It seemed quite small, and was much affected by horizontal refraction, as it appeared above the sea, forming a long horizontal ellipse of two and a half diameters, first enlarging on one side and then on another. After it had reached the height of two diameters above the horizon, the ellipse gradually inclined on the right, and in a few moments afterwards its longer axis became vertical, and it then enlarged at the bottom, somewhat in the form of an egg. My servants fruitlessly attempted to make a fire; after they had exhausted all their matches without success, we each took turns to ignite a stick, after the native fashion, but with no more success: the nearest approximation to it was plenty of smoke. After making many vain attempts, and having had but little sleep, we took to our blankets again, to await the coming of some of the party from below. At about eleven o’clock on the 23d, Drs. Judd and Pickering pulled open the tent, and found us all three wrapped up in our blankets. ‘They had passed the night at the Flag Station. On inquiry, I found that Longley had not been seen for the last two days and nights; and fears were entertained that he had missed his way and perished. It might, at first view, appear strange that any one could be lost on a bare mountain side, with nothing to impede the sight; but, shut out the lower country, and one would be very much at a loss in which direction to go; the surface is so much broken, and so many spots resemble each other, that even an accurate observer might soon become bewildered. The last time Longley had been seen was by Mr. Brackenridge, who encountered him near the path, sick, and had carried him to a sheltered spot, and covered him with some of his warm clothing. Lieutenant Budd, on being informed of it, had endeavoured to per- suade several natives to go in search of him; but none could be induced to do so, as they thought it impossible to find their way back in the dark. A search was set on foot in the morning, but had con- tinued without success. The storm which with us had been snow, was rain at the Recruiting Station, and they were in hopes of getting from it a supply of water ; but in the morning the lava-rock appeared as dry as before. The news Dr. Judd brought was far from encouraging. Besides the disappearance of Longley, I learned that nearly all the natives had deserted the boxes; that many of them had not even reached the MAUNA LOA. 153 Recruiting Station, and that Ragsdale and his forty goats had not come; nor were there any tidings of the party from the ship. The natives hearing of our distresses, and probably exaggerating them, had refused to furnish any thing unless at exorbitant prices. The officers had very properly rejected the whole that was offered ; for, although our allowance was small, we trusted that the provisions from the ship would arrive in a day or two at farthest. I despatched a messenger to desire that the men coming from the ship should be employed first in hunting up Longley, although I entertained little hope of his being found alive, exposed as he must have been to two such severe nights and days, without food or covering from the storm. After getting a fire lighted, and something to eat, Drs. Judd, Pick- ering, and myself, set out to reconnoitre the crater for a more suitable place in which to establish the tents ; but, after much search, we found none that offered so many facilities as that I had accidentally chosen the first night. Dr. Pickering parted from us, and was the first to make a descent into the crater. Nothing can exceed the devastation of the mountain: the whole area of it is one mass of lava, that has at one time been thrown out in a fluid state from its terminal crater. There is no sand or other rock ; nothing but lava, on whichever side the eye is turned. To ap- pearance it is of different ages, some of very ancient date, though as yet not decomposed, and the alternations of heat and cold, with rain and snow, seem to have united in vain for its destruction. In some places it is quite smooth, or similar to what has already been de- scribed as the pahoihoi, or “satin stream ;” again, it appears in the form of clinkers, which are seldom found in heaps, but lie extended in beds for miles in length, sometimes a mile wide, and occasionally raised from ten to twenty feet above the surface of the surrounding lava. The place where these clinkers appear to me to have been formed is in the crater itself; there they have been broken up by contending forces, and afterwards ejected with the more fluid lava, and borne upon its surface down the mountain side, until they became arrested in their course by the accumulating weight, or stopped by the exces- sive friction that the mass had to overcome. In this way the beds, or rather streams, of them might have been formed, which would accumulate for miles, and continue to increase as the crater dis- charged this description of scoria. What strengthened my opinion VOL. Iv. 39 154 MAUNA LOA. in this respect was, that there were, apparently, streams of pahoihoi coming out from underneath the masses of clinkers wherever they had stopped. ‘The crater may be likened to an immense cauldron, boiling over the rim, and discharging the molten mass and scorie which has floated on its top. This day we received news of the arrival of Lieutenant Alden at the Recruiting Station, with the detachment from the ship; but he had brought no provisions, and none had yet reached the station. This arrival, therefore, instead of supplying our wants rather increased them. The small transit was brought up this day, and, to add to my vexa- tions, on opening it I found the level broken. I did not stop to inquire by what accident this had happened, but within ten minutes des- patched an order to the ship for another, which was distant sixty miles. We received a supply of wood from below, and sent down water in return. John Downhaul, a native, who was one of the party, desired permission to return to the ship, as, according to his own account, he was almost dead. Dr. Judd had met him with a number of natives in a cave, as he came up, the morning after the storm. It appeared, from John’s account, that he had advised some of the natives to stop and take care of him in their hasty retreat, but that he had only re- tained them with him by threatening them with the evil spirits of the mountain. When morning came, they left him. He had been very sick, vomiting and bringing up blood, and felt unable to move any further up the mountain; but having my portfolio, he did not wish to intrust it to the care of another. Dr. Judd prescribed for him, and sent him down, with directions to proceed to Hilo. On his way down, Downhaul met one of the carriers of the provisions for the consul’s party, whom he stopped and began to question; finding that he was loaded with provisions, and being quite hungry, he told him to put down the load, for he was the “ tommodore’s man,” and must be obeyed, and accordingly helped himself without stint, inducing the native to partake also. When the man reached Mr. Brinsmade, the articles were found to be very much diminished in bulk, and on inquiry, the native at once told the whole truth, and how he had been deceived. In the evening, at 6 p. M., the thermometer stood at 29°, and during the night it fell to 22°. Christmas-day set in quite stormy, with snow and a gale from the MAUNA LOA. ae southwest; it was very cold, and the only way we had of keeping warm was to wrap ourselves up with blankets and furs. We had just wood enough to heat a little chocolate. The small instruments having arrived, I began some of the obser- vations. While the rest were employed in making our tents as tight as possible, in the one Dr. Judd and myself occupied, we discovered a great deposit of moisture, which, on examination, was found to be caused by steam issuing through a crack in the lava. On placing a thermometer in it, it rose to 68°. The tent was forty feet from the edge of the precipice of the crater, and it was not surprising that the steam should find its way up from the fires beneath. As it somewhat annoyed us, we pounded and filled the seam full of broken pieces of lava. This circumstance led to the discovery of a small piece of moss, the only living thing, either animal or vegetable, that was found within six miles distance, or within four thousand feet of the height of the terminal crater. ‘This moss was here nourished by the steam that escaped, which supplied it with warmth and moisture. This day we made many experiments on the temperature of boiling water: the mean of the observations gave the boiling temperature at 188°, being five hundred and sixty feet to each degree of temperature. At the volcano of Kilauea, I had found it less than five hundred and fifty feet to each degree ; while the result of careful experiments at the Sunday Station, gave five hundred and fifty-five feet to the degree, and at the Recruiting Station, five hundred and fifty-eight feet. Wealso employed ourselves in build- ing a high stone wall around a ey large enough to contain the houses and < tents, when they should all arrive, hay- ing found the necessity of it to protect 4 ourselves from the violent winds. Be- sides this, each tent was to be sur- gz ; <3 h i PENDULUM PEAK a i 4 4 January, 1841. 7 E rounded by a separate wall, up as high i a US2eRe d as the eaves, when completed. ‘The plan was as exhibited in the annexed ‘ wood-cut. 1. Pendulum-house. 2. Captain Wilkes’s tent. 3. Officers’ tent. 4,5 and 6. Men’s quarters. 7. Magnetic house. 8. Observatory. 9. Store-house. 10. Wood-house. 11. Kitchen 12, Thermometer and barometer house. 13. Entrance. 156 MAUNA LOA. On the morning of the 26th, news was brought that Longley had been found by Messrs. Alden and Eld: when discovered, he was almost unable to speak, and quite delirious. He was carefully attended to by these officers, who were fortunately provided with the means of making him comfortable at once from their stores, a circum- stance which probably saved his life. Suitable men were allotted to watch over him. He was found lying in a hole in the rock, with his hat, pea-jacket, and mittens on: his water-flask was hanging to his neck, just as he had left the encampment three days before. He complained constantly, in a low tone, that some person had driven him out of his house. I cannot give a better idea of the state of this mountain, than the fact, that Longley, who had been missing three days and three nights, was finally found lying near the route which had been travelled over by thirty or forty men twice or three times each day, many of whom were actually in search of him. Some of the boxes now began to make their appearance, by the aid of the sailors from the ship; but the provisions had not arrived, and the allowance was again reduced. Most of the men were reported as without shoes, having worn out those they left the ship with, on the lava; and being barefooted, could not move over the sharp vitreous lava. Many of them were likewise said to be ill with the mountain- sickness. Wood was brought up, and water sent down to the lower station, in exchange. The wind had been fresh throughout the day; but towards night it began to increase, and by eight o’clock we had another violent gale from the southwest. Ido not think I ever passed such a night: it blew a perfect hurricane for several hours, causing. an incessant slamming, banging, and flapping of the tents, as though hundreds of persons were beating them with clubs. ‘These noises, added to the howling of the wind over the crater, rendered the hours of darkness truly awful. The two other tents were blown down, but mine stood firm. The men lay under the fallen tents, and were made far more comfortable after the accident. It was impossible to stand against the gusts; and we watched all night, for no one could sleep. The thermometer fell to 17° inside the tent; and water in the bags, under my pillow, froze. About three o’clock, the wind began to moderate; and at sun- rise, we found the temperature at 20°. From the news received on the 25th, respecting the condition of MAUNA LOA. 157 the men, I determined to see them myself. Dr. Judd and I there- fore set out on the morning of the 26th; and when about two miles from the summit, we met Lieutenant Alden, Dr. Pickering, and Mr. Eld, who were coming up to see me, to report the condition of the men. ‘The account they gave of them was any thing but cheering. On the arrival of Lieutenant Alden, I had directed that he should take an intermediate post between Lieutenant Budd’s Recruiting Station and the summit crater, in order that the men belonging to one station might be able to bring up their loads and return before night. This, Lieutenant Alden informed me, he had done: his station was at the height of eleven thousand eight hundred feet. I now saw more strongly the necessity of my going down, in order to ascertain the exact situation of things, give the men encourage- ment, and renew the spirit with which they had left the ship, as volunteers. I have always found that sailors are easily encouraged ; and by putting a light heart and cheerful face upon the times, they quickly reassume their good spirit; and this I found to be the case in the present instance. We parted; Lieutenant Alden, Dr. Pickering, and Mr. Eld going up to the terminal crater, while Dr. Judd and myself continued to descend for about four miles. There we found a large number of men in a temporary tent, lying on the panels of the portable houses: some of them were suffering from mountain-sickness, others vomiting ; some had attacks of diarrhoea, others had not got over their forced march, and showed me their bleeding feet and shoeless condition; all were looking half-savage, with overgrown beards, dirty and ragged clothes, —so totally different from their trim and neat appearance on board ship, that I was shocked at the change produced in so short a time. Whilst Dr. Judd administered to the sick, I spoke to those who were well, and succeeded in animating them: they all assured me they were “good pluck,” and such I afterwards found them. ‘They set about mending their shoes and making sandals; and by the next day, many were transporting small loads up the mountain side. Poor Longley had shelter in the hollow of a rock, under a sail, carefully attended by four of his messmates. It was affecting to see these simple-hearted fellows depressed in spirits, and looking as if cast away, superintending the sick man with all the care possible, illy provided with things to make him comfortable, yet contented to wait until they could receive relief. This we promised would reach them before night. VOL. Iv. 40 158 MAUNA LOA. I have always admired the care and attachment which sailors show for each other; even the most reckless are constant in their attentions to their messmates, when ill. I have never yet seen them neglect each other under these circumstances. Many instances of their disinterest- edness and feeling that came under my observation on the mountain might be mentioned, did I not feel it would be a digression from the course of the narrative, that would not be allowable. The only account that Longley could give me was, that being sick, he had lain down near the path, and was unable to move afterwards : he endeavoured to make signals to those he saw passing, but could attract no attention. At about four o’clock we reached the Recruiting Station, having encountered the boxes and various articles, together with pieces of the portable house, strewed along the way. ‘These had been left by the natives, who deserted en masse when those who had left me the first night came down giving exaggerated accounts of the cold, and other difficulties of the journey. I found Lieutenant Budd quite well, and only a few of the men that were with him sick: they had little or no provisions. The difference of temperature between the altitude of fourteen thousand and nine thousand feet was very apparent: we could now enjoy sitting in the open air without feeling cold; it was as if we had passed at once from winter to spring. Although, ten days before, I had looked upon this spot as particularly barren, being destitute of vegetation and without water, yet, by comparison with the upper station which we had just left, every thing now appeared comfortable. It had been chosen, as I have said before, for a very remarkable cave, which had now become our hospital, and which was found dry, warm, and large enough to have accommodated the whole party. All the sick were immediately transported here, and placed under the super- intendence of Dr. Judd and his assistants. ‘The men here had pro- cured a large turtle-shell from the natives, and in commemoration of their jaunt, engraved on it all their names, and nailed it to a staff, which they erected at the mouth of the cave. We passed the night with Lieutenant Budd, and although the lava floor of the tent was a rough bed, we seldom enjoyed so sound a sleep. After arranging every thing relative to the provisions, when they should arrive, and visiting the sick with Dr. Judd, I determined to return to the top. ‘The doctor remained for a day or two, to arrange matters with the natives at the lower station, so as to have our supplies MAUNA LOA. 159 more regularly forwarded ; and also for the transportation of Longley to the ship. Taking with me James G. Clarke, a seaman, I again started for the summit, heavily laden with provisions. Longley was found better, and some of the men able to move about; and in order to prevent any accident by losing the direction, small flags were placed, as we went up, within sight of each other. We reached the observatory at the terminal crater at four o’clock, after a hard walk of six hours. We had now three stations, viz.: the Recruiting Station, Lieutenant Alden’s, and the Flag Station, under the sergeant of marines. These made it a more easy task to get the loads up, although it would require a longer time. I found they had built some part of the wall around our encamp- ment on the summit, and being apprehensive that we were again to have bad weather, we all joined to secure the tents more effectually against the anticipated storm. The cold, this day, to our feelings, was intense, although the temperature was not lower than 26°. All our exertions in carrying stone for the wall, and violent exercise, could not keep us warm. Dr. Pickering came in, towards dark, half frozen, having made the circuit of the three craters, which had occupied him nearly all day. The stream of the last eruption, some sixty years since, was from the north crater. The two chronometers, with the pendulum clock, and some of the pendulum apparatus, had reached the top during the day ; and I was rejoiced to find, on examination and comparison with the one I had, that no difference of rate had yet taken place. We found the experiment. of enclosing the camp in with a stone wall to succeed admirably, protecting us very much from the south- west wind. The temperature during the night fell to 17°. On the 28th the day dawned with fine weather. At sunrise the effect of refraction was very similar to that before described. I was again struck with the apparent smallness of the diameter of the sun when seen in the horizon. The day continued beautifully clear, with a very strong wind from the westward. We were employed in taking observations, and the transit was set firmly, to get the passage of the stars: a wall was also built around the observatory, to protect it from the wind. Finding there was no longer any necessity for the Flag Station to be continued, I ordered the sergeant and party up to Pendulum Peak, and directed Lieutenant Alden to remove to the Recruiting 160 MAUNA LOA. Station, and that Lieutenant Budd should join me at the summit. This arrangement became necessary, as the men would now unavoidably be exposed to the cold, and had recruited so much that they could make the trip between the two stations during the day, with loads, sleeping at the upper or lower station. Dr. Pickering made a trip to-day into the crater on the west side, which he found no easy task. He brought back several specimens of lava. The night was clear, but very cold. On the 29th we were busy putting up the pendulum apparatus. A short time after noon, Dr. Judd again joined us with the joyful news that the party from the ship had arrived, with sixty days’ provisions for as many men. I now felt that through our own perseverance we should succeed in obtaining our wishes, for with this supply we could remain sufficiently long to effect my object in visiting the mountain. Dr. Pickering left us to descend the mountain, with the intention of ascending that of Mauna Kea with Mr. Brackenridge. The day was much warmer than we had felt it since reaching the summit. The fine weather enabled us to build the wall to enclose the whole encampment, put up the houses and tents, and attend to the observa- tions. In a note from Lieutenant Alden, he informed me that not more than half the men had shoes, and not more than that number were fit for duty, partly on that account and lameness, together with mountain-sickness. A supply of shoes, and sandals of raw hide, had been sent for, as the men had already worn out two pair. It was exceedingly provoking to learn that there was much delay in getting these articles and the provisions from the ships ; which arose, as I was informed by letter, in consequence of the refusal of the Rev. Mr. Coan to allow the natives to set out early on Sunday morning: he required the officer to state that he believed our necessities were urgent before he would consent to the natives going. The temperature in the shade at noon was 47°; in the sun, 70°; and at night it again fell to 20°. On the 30th we had another delightful day, and improved it to the best of our ability, by numerous observations. The articles from below were now continually arriving. We took advantage of the fine weather to make an excursion to the northeast, for the purpose of seeing if I could effect a communication with the ship by simultaneous signals; after walking for about two hours, we found that no view down the mountain-side could be had, as the top MAUNA LOA. 161 of Mauna Loa was an extensive flattened dome, falling very gradually on its northern and eastern sides. I therefore gave up this attempt, contenting myself with the determination of the meridian distance by the three chronometers. In returning, Dr. Judd and myself passed along the edge of the northeast crater, where we found, in a small cave that had been thrown up, a beautiful specimen of lava, the colour of the red oxide of iron. ‘There was also some water in the cave. At night, on our return, we had a visit from the old guide, Keaweehu, the bird-catcher, who gave us the name of the terminal crater, as Moku-a-weo-weo, and of that south of it as Pohakuohanalei. According to his statement, Moku-a-weo-weo emitted fire not long after Cook’s visit, and again five years since, on the north side. When talking, the old man’s face and appearance were so peculiar, that while he was in conversation with Dr. Judd, I thought it worth while to obtain a camera lucida sketch of him, as he sat wrapped in his tapa. KEAWEEHU, Treble, the armourer, succeeded in mending the bar of the pen- dulum-frame, and rendered it as good as it was originally. The thermometer stood at noon, in the sun, at 92°; in the shade, at 55°; and at night it fell to 13°. The 31st was another fine day, and we continued to receive pro- visions, wood, &c., from below, until we were well supplied. This enabled me to issue the full ration. We were also gladdened with letters from Honolulu, and news from the ship. They had expe- VOL. Iv. 41 162 MAUNA LOA. rienced at Honolulu, on the nights of the 23d and 24th, a very heavy storm from the southwest, simultaneously with the one that annoyed us on the mountain. A greater degree of cold was experienced there than they had had for years. At Hilo, during this time, very light variable winds and calms prevailed. We were employed this day in erecting the pendulum-house, over which was placed a thick hair-cloth covering, and outside of all, a No. 2 canvass tent, surrounding the whole house, and enclosing a stratum of air. On the outer side a wall was built up to the eaves of the house, and all the cords drawn tightly through it. It was with some difficulty that any level spot was found suffi- ciently large to place even the pendulum-frame, and we were obliged to cut away with our axes and chisels, a portion of the lava that was uneven, until a suitable place was made. The temperature at night was 17°; the weather clear and cold. On the Ist of January, 1841, we were still erecting the pendulum- houses, and building stone walls. Dr. Judd, the sergeant, and Brooks, descended into the crater: they made the descent on the east, bank, among large blocks of lava, and reached the bottom in about an hour. There they were surrounded by huge clinkers, and ridges running generally north and south in lines across the crater; between these was the pahoihoi, or smooth lava. ‘They passed over these obstruc- tions to the southwest, and found in places many salts, among which were sulphate of soda, and sulphate of hme. Four-fifths of the way across was a hill, two hundred feet high, composed of scoria and pumice, with fissures emitting sulphurous acid gas. To the west was a plain full of cracks and fissures, all emitting more or less steam and gas. They found the west wall perpendicular: its lower strata were composed of a gray basalt. For three-fourths of the distance up, it had a dingy yellow colour. Above this, there are a number of thin layers, apparently dipping to the southwest, with the slope of the mountain. They also visited many steam-cracks on the northeast side, from which fumes of sulphurous acid gas were emitted; no hydrogen was found in the gas, which extinguished flame without producing explosion. Specimens of sulphate of lime, carbonate of magnesia, sulphate of ammonia, and carbonate of lime, were found in beautiful crystals by MAUNA LOA. 163 Dr. Judd, but it was found difficult to preserve any of them in a separate form, as they were all intermingled in their formation. Half-past two o’clock having arrived, Dr. Judd began his return to the bank where he had descended, and reached it after walking an hour and a half: it required another hour to ascend. When they returned, they appeared exhausted with their day’s trip: overloaded as they were with specimens, the ascent was more arduous. This evening, at sunset, we had a beautiful appearance of the shadow of the mountain, dome-shaped, projected on the eastern sky: the colour a light amethyst at the edges, increasing in intensity to a dark purple in the centre; it was as distinct as possible, and the vast dome seemed to rest on the distant horizon. The night was clear, with moonlight, the effect of which on the scene was beautiful: the clouds floating below us, with the horizon above them, reminded us of the icebergs and ice-fields of the Antarctic: the temperature lent its aid to the deception. Lieutenant Budd, with a party, joied me this day, bringing with him the transit-level, from the ship. ‘Towards evening I had another attack of mountain-sickness, with much tendency of blood to the head. My steward was also attacked with severity, and several of the men; but, by aid of the remedies given us by Dr. Judd, the next morning found us all much relieved. The dew-point could not be obtained with Pouillet’s hygrometer (a capsule). Whenever this was the case, electricity was found to be easily excited: on moving any articles of dress from the person, it would develope itself in sparks. On examination, it was found that our pulses varied during the day, and were very easily excited. Dr. Judd’s fluctuated from sixty to one hundred beats, Mr. Eld’s from eighty-four to one hundred and twenty, and mine from seventy-two to one hundred and eight. The night was favourable for observations, and we succeeded in making many. The wind was from the northeast. The thermo- meter at sunrise was at 20°. The sun did not rise clear, as I was in hopes it would have done, so as to afford me an opportunity of again seeing the refraction, and measuring it. The 3d proved fine, and the pendulum-clock and apparatus being arranged and adjusted, the clock was put in motion, and a comparison made with the three chronometers every two hours. It being Sunday, and a fine day, the men were allowed to wander 164 MAUNA LOA. about the crater; and some descended into it, bringing back many fine specimens of lava. During our stay on the summit, we took much pleasure and interest in watching the various movements of the clouds; this day in par- ticular they attracted our attention: the whole island beneath us was covered with a dense white mass, in the centre of which was the cloud of the volcano rising like an immense dome. All was motion- less, until the hour arrived when the sea-breeze set in from the different sides of the island: a motion was then seen in the clouds at the opposite extremities, both of which seemed apparently moving towards the same centre, in undulations, until they became quite compact, and so contracted in space as to enable us to see a well- defined horizon ; at the same time there was a wind from the moun- tain, at right angles, that was affecting the mass, and driving it asunder in the opposite direction. The play of these masses was at times in circular orbits, as they became influenced alternately by the different forces, until the whole was passing to and from the centre in every direction, assuming every variety of form, shape, and motion. On other days clouds would approach us from the southwest, when we had a strong northeast trade-wind blowing, coming up with their cumulous front, reaching the height of about eight thousand feet, spreading horizontally, and then dissipating. At times they would be seen lying over the island in large horizontal sheets, as white as the purest snow, with a sky above of the deepest azure blue that fancy can depict. I saw nothing in it approaching to blackness, at any time. The light from the voleano of Kilauea was exceedingly brilliant this night. The temperature fell to 17°. On the 4th, Lieutenant Budd began the survey of the summit of the mountain (including the four craters), by measuring bases and planting signals. On the return of the parties, they reported that an eruption had taken place on the southwest side of the mountain. This was almost too good news to be true, for to see this wonderful crater in action was scarcely to be expected. Early on the following morning, a party was sent to examine the spot designated. Towards evening I began the pendulum observations, and found the temperature of the pendulum-house variable, for which I could not account, as the outward air seemed to be excluded, and yet it a MAUNA LOA. 165 varied as though it were exposed. At daylight the thermometer had risen to 20°. Dr. Judd returned towards evening from the southwest side of the mountain, but found no signs of an eruption; thus it turned out, as I had anticipated, a false alarm; it served, however, to give us more excitement. Several large fissures were discovered on this jaunt, and a small crater lying south of the large one. The report of the eruption in all probability originated from the southwest clouds being illumi- nated by the setting sun, a phenomenon which was afterwards often observed. 5 This party also descended into the crater of Pohakuohanalei, into which a stream of lava had run from that of Moku-a-weo-weo. This stream looked like a cascade formed of iron, the fluid having been transfixed before it reached the bottom. The crater is of an oval shape; it is stratified, and seventy layers of basaltic rock were counted, which have evidently been deposited by the overflow of the large crater: the guides, however, from knowledge derived from their traditions, told us it was the oldest crater, though appearances led us to a contrary conclusion. On the bottom of this crater the lava was found much pulverized. Dr. Judd, finding a place with moist and rich earth, planted two orange-seeds, which, should they take root and grow, may astonish some future visiter. On their return they passed a hillock of recent cinders, which was open at the top. On entering it, they found themselves in a beautiful cavern or hall, studded with stalactites of brown lava, and whitened about the sides and bottom with sulphate of soda, in a state of efflorescence. A considerable quantity of this was taken up. It had been found in other places, but only in small quantities. On the 5th, a large quantity of dry grass arrived from below, which I had sent for to thatch the house, in order to preserve a more equable temperature. ‘This we used to stuff between the house and tent. I also laid a thick covering of the same material over the lava floor, as I thought it probable there might be some hollow tunnel or cavern beneath the house. All these precautions soon produced the desired effect by giving an equable temperature, although the outward varia- tion still continued from 17° to 50° during the twenty-four hours. As we were desirous of having a little fire, for the purpose of warming our fingers when calculating or writing, we took one of the VOL. IV. 42 ) 166 MAUNA LOA. calabashes, and by filling it with stones, converting it into a “brasero.” This answered our purpose admirably, except that we were occa- sionally annoyed with smoke. Dr. Judd, not content with this rude contrivance, invented a fire-place and chimney, which he built in one corner of the tent, and which occupied all the spare room we had. We thus were enabled to enjoy the comforts of what, on the top of Mauna Loa, we called a good fire. How good it was, may be under- stood when it is stated, that our allowance of fuel was three sticks of wood per day; and that water froze within a couple of feet of the fire, when it was giving out the most heat. In a former gale, one of our three barometers had been blown over, spilling the mercury, though not injuring the tube; being prepared for such accidents, I filled the tube again and took a careful compari- son with the others, in the event of farther accidents. The temperature of boiling water was again tried, and found 187°; the barometer stood at 18-384 in. No dew-point could be obtained. Electricity was developed in large sparks. Brooks, who was employed in putting up signals around the old crater with Lieutenant Budd, brought in some fine specimens from the north crater; among them were some having almost the appear- ance of pure glass. He had found a small piece of fern in the rich earth of the crater, which was regarded by us all as a great curiosity. The afternoon of the 6th, the atmosphere was heavy, causing much refraction; there was little air stirring at the time. The 7th, we continued our observations; the temperature of the pendulum-house now continued equable at 40°. On the 8th, we had a change to cold, raw, and disagreeable weather; snow began to fall, and a kona or southwest gale set in; the tempera- ture fell soon to 20°. At 10 p. m., I was unable to proceed with the pendulum observa- tions; for such was the fury of the storm, that the journeyman-clock, with a loud beat, although within three feet of my ear, could not be heard. I was indeed apprehensive that the whole tent, house, and apparatus would be blown over and destroyed. The barometer indicated but little change. ‘This storm continued until sunrise of the 9th, when it moderated. I have seldom experienced so strong a wind; it blew over and broke one of the barometers, although its legs had been guarded carefully by large stones; and the wind was so violent at times, that it was with difficulty we could keep our MAUNA LOA. 167 footing. We suffered the loss of three thermometers, by the frame being blown down on which they were fastened. Towards morning, the wind having sufficiently lulled, the pendu- lum observations were continued. Being desirous of obtaining the depth of the crater, we prepared a long line with a plummet; and Mr. Eld was also despatched below, to get altitude angles with a base on both sides for the elevation of the banks. He set out at ten o’clock, with the sergeant and two men, and passed down under the eastern bank,—the same route Dr. Judd had taken. He described it as so steep, as to threaten them, by a false step or the loosening of a stone, with being precipitated below. They reached the bottom in less than an hour: the plummet had been lowered, which Mr. Eld went im search of, but it had only reached about a third of the distance down, and on signal being made, it was lowered still further; but the cord soon chafed through, and the plummet, which was the top of the ship’s maul, disappeared. Mr. Eld obtained his base and the angles of elevation of the east bank, and then went over to the west side. ‘The passage across the bottom of the crater he found much as Dr. Judd had described it; the ridges, from ten to fifty feet in height, alternating with deep chasms and smooth pahoihoi. They were two hours crossing over, and in imminent danger every moment of being killed by the falling of fragments of rocks, or of being precipitated down the fissures, that were crossed every few yards by jumping on their fragile edges, and threatening himself and men on breaking through, with one of the most horrible deaths. Some of the steam-cracks they were able to approach, but others were entirely too dangerous to admit of such proximity. After finishing the observations, Mr. Eld directed his steps towards the bank or wall, where he had been told it was easier to pass along ; but he found the path quite as rugged; and by the time they reached the place of ascent, they were all nearly unable to proceed from fatigue. The prospect of remaining the coming night in the cold, was sufficient to spur them on to overcome the ascent. ‘They were all completely exhausted when they reached the camp at sunset. The banks of the crater were found, by Mr. Eld’s observations, to be as follows: West bank, A : : 5 : 5 784 feet. East“ PONE Es Wt USO OARS Me arO 168 MAUNA LOA. On the 10th of January, we had snow again. The temperature rose to 32°: the snow melted fast, causing excessive dampness within and without, while other discomforts that may be imagined prevailed. Towards night, it cleared off, the wind hauling round to the west- ward. The temperature fell quickly to 16°, when for a few hours it blew a perfect hurricane. I thought the pendulum-house in great danger: it rocked to and fro, appearing at times to be lifted from the ground, and several of its staples were drawn out. Not a person in the camp could sleep until towards daylight, when the gale began to abate. These gales reminded me strongly of those we experienced among the ice on the Antarctic cruise. I regretted | had no anemometer, to ascertain the direction, changes, and force of the wind. It is remark- able that these severe gales all occurred during the night, beginning in the evening and continuing until the next morning. I attempted to ascertain the velocity of the clouds by the rate of progress of their shadow across the crater, marking the time of the passage; and the greatest velocity in many trials of those from the southwest, was about forty-seven miles an hour. It was, however, observed, in these experiments, that the swiftness of the clouds seemed to increase in passing over the apex of the cone or crater. Whether this was the effect of beimg able to compare their movements more nearly with fixed objects, 1 am not prepared to say; but I am inclined to believe that im some cases, as they touched the mountain-side, they were forced upwards and over the summit, with a much greater velocity for the first half of the crater than the last. The shortness of the time that elapsed in passing the diameter of the crater, little more than a mile, precludes the supposition that they had changed their form sufficiently to alter the figure of their shadow. The wind was blowing what would be termed a strong gale, when the experiments were made. On the 11th, having the eprouvette mortar with me, I tried some experiments on the velocity of sound, comparing it with our measured bases and the sides of the triangles: these gave results as satisfactory as those usually obtained below. The great difference was in the sound itself: the report of the gun producing a kind of hissing noise. The eprouvette was of iron, and was fired with a plug driven into it very tightly after it was loaded. When fired near the level of the sea, it was necessary to close the ears when standing within twenty feet MAUNA LOA. 169 of it. ‘The sound could be heard six miles, and the report was equal to that of a large gun. But on the summit we stood close to it without any precaution what>ver, and the noise it there made was more like that of a squib. Although the reports of the eprouvette were heard at the opposite side of the crater distinctly, yet the sound was a faint one; but at the Recruiting Station, then occupied by Lieutenant Alden, about eight miles distant, the sound was loud and reverbera- tory. This night we finished the pendulum, and all the dip and intensity observations, except those with Gauss’s needle. The temperature at night stood at 20°. On the 12th, I jomed Lieutenant Budd in the triangulation, and for this purpose made the circuit of the crater to occupy the western stations. ‘The day was fine, and the lava covered with ahout five inches of snow. Having prepared our boots with hide sandals, Dr. Judd and myself set off at an early hour towards the south, and whilst Lieutenant Budd took the north side, we passed round Po- hakuohanalei. In the vicinity of that crater are many fissures, of great depth, and with a fresh appearance, as though they had been in action only the day before. The matter which had been thrown out from them appeared to be pure obsidian, of a dark and shining colour, and very brittle. Beyond it was an extensive bed or stream of pahoihoi. The small crater to the south of Pohakuohanalei, is but a small pit, in comparison with the others, and does not appear to have ever discharged lava over its edge. It is of the kind that I shall hereafter designate as a pit-crater, and will be described when I come to speak of those that are near the new eruption. In traversing these fissures we were in great danger, and expe- rienced much difficulty in walking on the recent stream that seemed to have flowed from them, for the snow which covered the lava con- cealed the new and weak places. The idea of being precipitated down a chasm of one hundred and fifty or two hundred feet deep, was by no means agreeable Our blood was occasionally stirred by breaking through with one leg or both; and I shall not soon forget my own descent into a vapour or steam bath, which on trial was found to be 169° of temperature, although only a few moments passed before I was out of danger. The lava at the mouth of some of the chasms, appeared as though it had been thrown up and plastered on the edges in clots, which seemed of the consistency of tar or melted sealing- wax, of various colours, the most predominant a dark brown. One VOL. IV. 43 170 MAUNA LOA. of these fissures we designated as the Great Steam-crack: it led from the top of the mountain a long distance down its sides, towards the south, and from it vapour was constantly issuing. On throwing a piece of lava down it, a sound was produced as if many pieces had been flung into an ordinary chasm, and the reverberation continued so long, as to lead to the belief that the mountain was rent to its very base. Although we had scarcely accomplished one-third of the circuit, our sandals began to give way, and we were obliged to stop to mend them, in order to prevent ourselves from becoming barefoot before making the circuit and reaching the encampment. While Dr. Judd undertook the repairs, 1 made a sketch of the crater, looking into it from the south, with Mauna Kea in the distance, while all around us the lava was piled in huge blocks, confusedly thrown together by some mighty force. This crater differs in several particulars from that of Kilauea. It has no black ledge, and has a great quantity of fallen debris around its walls. ‘There is no boiling lake, although the evidences of fire, as has already been stated, are not wanting, and its outer walls are more broken down. The glare from the snow in the strong sunlight had now become exceedingly uncomfortable to the eyes, which was felt by several who were in company with us. About 1 P. M., we were at a station on the southwest side, from which I obtained the distance, by sound, from the observatory. From this station we had a distant view of the hills on the coast. After getting my observations with the theodolite, we proceeded on our way round, frequently passing numbers of large boulders of a grayish basalt, that were lying on the lava stream, and had apparently been ejected from the crater. About two o’clock we reached the western side of the dome of Mauna Loa, which is here much more precipitous than it is on the east. On the western side there was no more than a slight sprinkling of snow, that scarcely covered the black lava. ‘The weather was still and calm, and a deathlike stillness prevailed, which I dreaded to break, even by making a remark to my companions upon the splen- dour of the scene before us. The sight was surpassingly grand. In the distance, the island of Maui emerged from and broke the line of the deep-blue horizon, while its lower side was dimmed by a whitish haze, that seemed to unite it to the island of Hawaii. The same haze MAUNA LOA. 171 enveloped the hills of Kohala on our right, and the western extremity of Hawaii. Nearer to us was Hualalai, the third great mountain of Hawaii, up whose sides a compact mass of white fleecy clouds was impelled by the sea-breeze. ‘l’o our right rose in bold relief Mauna Kea, covered with its snowy mantle; and at our feet was spread out, between the three great mountains, the black plain of lava, overhung by a dusky pall of clouds. All these features were so blended into each other by the mist, as to exhibit a tone of harmony that could hardly be conceived, considering the variety of the forms, characters, and distances of the objects, and which seemed to blend earth, sea, and sky into one. I can never hope again to witness so sublime a scene, to gaze on which excited such feelings that I felt relieved when I turned from it to engage in the duties that had called me to the spot. It was not without some nervous excitement that I placed my instrument on the highest point of Mauna Loa, within a few feet of its crater, and turned it upon Mauna Kea, to measure the difference in the height of these twin giants of the Pacific. The very idea of standing on the summit of one of the highest peaks in the midst of this vast ocean, in close proximity to a precipice of profound depth, overhanging an immense crater “outrageous as a sea,’ with molten rock, would have been exciting even to a strong man; but the sensation was overpowering to one already exhausted by breathing the rarefied air, and toiling over the lava which this huge cauldron must have vomited forth in quantities sufficient to form a dome sixty miles in diameter, and nearly three miles in height. I was still in doubt which mountain I should find the highest; for although previous measurements had given it in favour of Mauna Kea, yet I had found Mauna Loa about three hundred feet higher than it had been reported to be. Double the zenith angle was soon ob- tained, and decided it in favour of Mauna Kea, and subsequent calcu- lations gave one cone of it as one hundred and ninety-three feet above the place where I stood. Although twin mountains, they are of very different character. Mauna Kea is a vast mound topped with cones, nine in number, whilst Mauna Loa is a smooth dome. On the former the frosts of winter prevail, while the latter has internal fires, and occasionally vomits forth its lava to the very point where the other begins to rise, covering its broad flanks with layers of rocks. We had not much time to spare, and as soon as Lieutenant Budd joined me, we continued our route, in order to reach the encampment 172 MAUNA LOA. ~ before dark, for otherwise we should be forced to pass the night among the blocks of lava. Our sandals of hide were worn through, and our shoes somewhat injured, so that it became a source of anxiety to us whether they would last long enough for us to reach our des- tination. With rapid steps we passed along the north bank of the crater, descending on our hands and knees over some large blocks, where the wall had been thrown down as it were by earthquakes, filling chasms near it several hundred feet in depth. The way was difficult and dangerous, requiring the utmost caution in proceeding along the narrow edge that separated the north from the central crater: a false step, or the detaching of a small rock or stone, would have sent hundreds of the huge blocks headlong below. We passed over without accident ; and blocks of stone that before I had conceived to be large, diminished to small stones, in comparison with those we were passing over by jumping from one to the other. Many of us sank down from exhaustion when we reached the opposite bank. How I accomplished the remaining two miles I am unable to say, unless it were by virtue of the stimulant that the prospect of being benighted gave me. When we arrived, the sun had set, and we were all completely exhausted. On our return, we found the village filled with half-naked natives, who had come up, lured by the fine weather, and in hopes of getting their loads to return immediately, for the following day had been originally fixed upon for breaking up our camp. It was impossible to allow them to return: the night had closed in, and it became neces- sary to accommodate some forty natives with lodging and comforts. Although I was worn down, this was too strong a case to go unat- tended to; and the only place where I could stow them was the pendulum-house. I therefore took down and packed away the clock and apparatus, and gave them the house to lodge in. With the dry grass on its floor and roof, and plenty to eat, they made themselves quite comfortable. During the time I was thus engaged, I began to feel as if cob- webs had passed over my face and eyes, and found the same feeling prevailed with two or three of the men who had accompanied me during the day. To this feeling succeeded excessive irritation and inflammation of the eyes and eyelids, brought on by exposure to the strong glare from the snow. Dr. Judd was kind enough to make various applications, but none of these produced any effect, and I felt forcibly the horror of probable blindness; indeed I was so for the MAUNA LOA. 17/3 time, and notwithstanding all my fatigues, I passed a sleepless night in great pain. The night was stormy: the thermometer fell to 17°. I, however, determined to leave the station in the morning, if I had to be led down the mountain, which I thought very probable. One consolation, however, remained: my physical energies had not given way until every part of the objects of my ascent of Mauna Loa had been fully accomplished.

ey 9 A rr ry a te we) SO) GNVaN ATHLNOW z 8 e 2. SHLNOW “UGHLVaEM MALAWON WAIL See ee ‘ITVSst ‘da ONILNOY—']T I iL XG APPENDIX. 069 XG Ve U.S. Ship Vincennes, Nisqually Roads, July 17th, 1841. Sir, You are entrusted with the party, consisting of yourself, Passed Midshipman Eld, Mr. Brackenridge, Sergeant Stearns, Privates Rodgers and Dinsman, John Brooks (seaman), Thomas Ford and Henry Waltham (ordinary seamen), and the boy Joe, as interpreter, for the purpose of proceeding to Gray’s Harbour, by the portage of Shaptal, and through the lakes of the same name, thence down the Chickeeles river, which empties itself into the ocean, forming Gray’s Harbour. You are provided with two canoes and four balsas, together with provisions for twenty days, which is considered by me ample time to effect the following objects, &c. Your departure will take place from Nisqually, on the 19th, pro- ceeding up Puget Sound to the portage, where you will ascertain your latitude and longitude by equal altitudes and the pole-star; thence passing over the portage, you will direct your attention parti- cularly to the facilities it offers for transportation, and sketch the topographical plan of it. On reaching the Shaptal Lakes, you will embark (after having made a rough survey to ascertain their extent, if they are too large to be embraced by one view of the eye,) on the Chickeeles, and proceed down it towards Gray’s Harbour, making observations in order to ascertain its courses, length, and width, together with its capabilities for navigation. On your arrival at Gray’s Harbour, you will proceed to make an accurate survey of it, by measuring a base-line on the Sandy Flats at low water, and establishing well-marked signals round the harbour; and those near the entrance sufficiently large to enable you to see to angle on them at the bar, which must be sounded at low water, when it is supposed to be more clearly defined. Some difficulties may occur in this part of the duty, and after the signals are put up it would be better to sacrifice a little time, if a favourable and smooth time occurs, by beginning at that part of the work. VOL. Iv. 1438 570 APPENDIX. Your canoes are considered amply sufficient and safe to effect this object, even in boisterous weather, being furnished with balsas. After having fixed your encampment, you will erect a tide-staff, and keep the hourly observations, as also the noting of the times of equal altitudes on the staff between tides. The set of the currents, in and out of the harbour, at different times of the tide, will be attended to, and a rough diagram of their flow, by the direction of arrows, will prove satisfactory to make your observa- tions intelligible. If you find a projecting cape at the mouth of the harbour, you will not fail to get several azimuthal observations on the different points north and south, establishing the correct trending of the coast. ‘The latitude and longitude of this point you will carefully determine. After having finished this survey, you will proceed along the coast in your canoes (choosing a smooth time), and sketch its trendings and outlines to Shoalwater Bay, from whence you will despatch a letter for me, directed to Mr. Burnie, at Fort George, and proceed to survey with all accuracy that bay, until you have finished it, and the shores around to Cape Disappointment, which had better be done on shore, as the rollers near the cape are to be cautiously guarded against in the canoes you are to effect your work in. From Shoalwater Bay you will pass over a small portage, when you will enter a lake that has its outlet in Baker’s Bay, where you will join the ships, or await my arrival there. In executing this duty, you will be very particular as respects the safety of your party from the natives, taking great care to avoid any collision with them, and to take up your encampments at remote dis- tances from their lodges. Your party are provided with the neces- sary arms to protect themselves. None of them must be disposed of, nor any thing else given for trade, and you will take particular care and use great economy in the expenditure of every thing belonging to the government, and not abandon any thing, except through abso- lute necessity, in which decision the officer who accompanies you must coincide. Before quitting Gray’s Harbour, you will see that all the work of the survey is plotted, and a copy of it taken on tracing paper, which must be deposited in a separate place, to prevent the loss of both. I am aware that you may be detained a few days on account of the surf and weather; but do not risk your men, or omit to perform the duty assigned you. APPENDIX. 571 These orders you will show to Passed Midshipman Eld, that he may take a note of them, in case of accident. A full report will be expected from you, relative to the country passed through, and all information it may be in your power to obtain relative to its facilities for commerce, and its wants. On your arrival at Gray’s Harbour, if an opportunity should offer, you will send a letter, as above directed. Wishing you a pleasant time in the execution of these duties, Iam, &c., CHARLES WILKES, Commanding Exploring Expedition. Lieut. R. E. Jonson. Notr.—In the above orders, the name of Lieutenant Johnson was erased, and that of Passed Midshipman Eld inserted; and Mr. Colvo- coressis substituted for Mr. Eld. C. W. eV ARTICLES OF AGREEMENT BETWEEN THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY AND THEIR SERVANTS. AN agreement, made this of , 1836, between , In the county of , in the parish of , in England, of the one part, and the Governor and Company adventurers of England, trading into Hudson’s Bay, by , their agent, of the other part, as follows: The said , hereby contracts and agrees to enter into the service and employment of the said Company, in North America, in the capacity of farm-servants, or carpenters, or voyageurs, é&c.; and that he will embark, when thereunto required, on board such ship or vessel as shall be appointed, and in behalf of said Company, and proceed to Hudson’s Bay, and for the term of five years, to be com- pleted from the said embarkation, and faithfully serve the said Company, as their hired servant, in the capacity of , and devote the whole of his time and labour in their service, and for their sole benefit; and that he will do his duty as such, and perform all such work or service, by day or by night, for the said Company, as he shall be required to do, and obey all orders which he shall receive from the governors of the Company in North America, or either their officers or agents for the time being, and that he will with courage 572 APPENDIX. and fidelity in his said station, in the said service, defend the property of the said Company, and their factories and territories, and will not absent himself from the said service, nor engage, or be concerned, in any trade, or employment whatsoever, except for the benefit of the said Company, and according to their orders; and that the said will faithfully obey all laws, orders, or regulations, established or made by the said Company, for the good government of their settle- ments and territories; and at all times during the residence of the said in North America, he will defend the rights and privileges of said Company, and aid and support their officers and agents to the utmost of his power; and the said further engages and agrees, that if required so to do by the said governor of the said Company in North America, or other their officers and agents for the time being, he shall enrol himself as a soldier, in any volunteer, militia, or other military corps that may be formed or embodied by the said Company in North America, and act in that capacity with courage and fidelity, on any offensive or defensive service in which he may be employed by the governor of said Company in North America, or other their officers and agents for the time being, and attend such drills or exer- cise, in order to acquire a knowledge of the duties that may be required of him, as a member of such corps, whenever he may be called upon so to do by the governor of the said Company, or other their officers or agents; and the said further engages and agrees, that his wife and children, in consideration of being found in provisions by the said Company, if required so to do by the governor of said Company in North America, or other their officers or agents for the time being, render their services at hay-making, >? sheep-shearing, weeding, and such other light work as they may be equal to, at the farm or farms on which the said may be em- ployed by the governor of the said Company in North America, or other their officers or agents. And the said further engages and agrees, that in case he shall omit to give notice to the governor or officers of said Company in North America, one year or upwards, before the expiration of the said term of five years, of his intention to quit their service, and return to Europe, then, that he hereby promises and engages to remain one year longer, and also until the next ship in the service of the Company shall sail from thence for Europe, as their hired servant in North America, upon like terms as are contained in this contract; and the said also engages and agrees, that in case APPENDIX. 573 the said Company should not have any ship, which will sail from Hudson’s Bay for Europe, immediately after the expiration of the said term of five years, or of such further term as hereinbefore mentioned, then he hereby promises and engages to remain in the service as a hired servant of the said Company in North America, until the next ship of the said Company shall sail from thence for Europe, upon the like terms as are contained in this contract; and the said Mr. Sketton, on behalf of the said Company, hereby engages, that upon the condition of the due and faithful service of the said , and his wife and children in like manner, he shall receive from the said Company, after the rate of seventeen pounds per annum, wages, to commence on the day of his embarkation for Hudson’s Bay, as aforesaid, and up to the day of his embarkation from thence for Europe, in one of the first ships in the said Company’s service, and be found in board and lodging, for himself, and wife, and children, on the condition aforesaid, free of cost, by the said Company; and in the event of the said being enrolled in any volunteer, militia, or other military corps, as aforesaid, he shall be provided by the said Company, free of cost, with a uniform or suit of regimental clothes, every second year, to be worn when on duty in the said corps, and shall be provided with arms and ammunition, free of cost, by the said Company; and in the event of the said being desirous of remaining in the territory of said Company in North America, and of settling therein as a permanent resident, after the expiration of this engagement, he shall be permitted so to do, by the said Com- pany, if his conduct, up to that time, shall have been to their entire Satisfaction, and a grant of fifty acres of land shall be made to him, free of cost, but subject to the like condition, restrictions, rules, and regulations, as the other listed servants of the said Company, holding grants of land, as settlers, under them, in such situations or places as may hereafter be determined on by the said Company. But in con- sideration of the said such grant of land, the said shall have to render twenty-eight days of labour or service in every year, for the first seven years after he shall have become a settler, or permanent resident, in the country, to the said Company, or any duty he may be called upon to perform by the said governors of the said Company in North America, or other their agents or officers for the time being, without being entitled to any further pay or remuneration for such service or labours. But permission to remain in the country after the expiration of this engagement, to be dependent on the conduct of the VOL. Iv. 144 574 APPENDIX. said during the term of his engagement, and discretionary with the said Company, or their agents or other officers, for the time being, in North America; provided always, and it is here expressly agreed between the said parties thereunto, that it shall be lawful for the governor, or governors, or other officers of the said Company in North America, at any time during the said term of five years, or such addi- tional term as the aforesaid, or at the expiration of the engagement, to dismiss the said from either service, and direct his return from thence to Europe, in one of the ships in their employment; and in which case a passage, free of cost, shall be provided, by the said Company, for the said and his wife and children, from Hudson’s Bay back to Europe, and in such case his wages are to cease from the day of his embarkation for Europe; and further, that in case the said shall, at any time during this contract, desert the service of the said Company, or otherwise neglect or refuse duly to discharge his duty, as such hired servant as aforesaid, then he shall forfeit and lose all his wages; for the recovery thereof there shall be no relief, either in law or equity. In witness whereof, the said parties have hereunto set their names. Signed in presence of END OF THE FOURTH VOLUME. ay A Ti ‘esik sp ‘ ‘ } i } > al i AG Sea NAN ta. ma oh a ry n aah Pe vi Rea WEN) cise i ie ny, ribs i 1 Dua be ay . 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