to

TTbe "dniperslty of Toronto Xtbrarp
bB

1bume Blake, Esq.

from tbe boohs of
TTbe late Ibonourable Eowarfc Blafte

Cbancellor of tbe THnivcrsit\2 of (Toronto
(1876=1900)

LEA AND BLANCHARD,

PHILADELPHIA,
HAVE JUST PUBLISHED,

THE NARRATIVE OF THE

UNITED STATES

EXPLORING EXPEDITION,

DURING THE YEARS

1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, AND 1842.

BY CHARLES WILKES, U.S.N.,

COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION, ETC., ETC.

IN FIVE MAGNIFICENT LARGE IMPERIAL OCTAVO VOLUMES,
WITH AN ATLAS OF LARGE AND EXTENDED MAPS.

Price Twenty-five Dollars to Subscribers, done up in beautiful
Extra Cloth Binding.

This great and truly national work is issued in a style of superior magnificence and
beauty, containing

SIXTY-FOUR LARGE AND FINISHED LINE ENGRAVINGS,

EMBRACING SCENERY, PORTRAITS, MANNERS, CUSTOMS, ETC. ETC.

FORTY-SEVEN EXQUISITE STEEL VIGNETTES, WORKED AMONG THE LETTER-PRESS;

ABOUT

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY FINELY-EXECUTED WOOD-CUT ILLUSTRATIONS!
FOURTEEN LARGE AND SMALL MAPS AND CHARTS;

AND NEARL7

TWENTY-SIX HUNDRED PAGES OP LETTER-PRESS

No pains or expense have been spared to render these volumes worthy of the theme they
illustrate, and to make them equal, if not superior, to anything of the kind ever produced
in any country. The whole work may be regarded as a truly national one. Nothing has
been used in its preparation that is not STRICTLY AMERICAN, and the design of the
Author and Publishers has been to produce a book worthy of the country.

A specimen of the Plates, Cuts, and general execution of the work can be seen, and the
names of the persons wanting copies may be left with the Publishers, or any of the principal
Booksellers throughout the Union.

***The publishers have for sale for Sixty Dollars, in cloth, a few copies of the edition in large Quarto, printed
for distribution by the order of Congress. Only one hundred and twenty-five of the two hundred and fifty printed
have been offered to the public.

NOTICE OF THE PUBLISHEKS.

THE reader will perceive that this edition of the " Narrative
of the Exploring Expedition" contains precisely the same
type, page and reading matter, as the one in Imperial Octavo ;
— the difference between them being in the quality and size of
the paper ; the substitution of forty-seven wood-cuts for that
number of steel vignettes in the other ; the omission of the
sixty-four plates, and the use of eleven of the fourteen maps,
four of which are on a reduced scale.

The number of Wood Illustrations in this Edition is nearly
Three Hundred. A volume will be published about every
two weeks, until the whole work shall be completed.

Phikdelphia, April, 1845.

UNITED STATES

EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

II \

NARRATIVE

OP THE

UNITED STATES

EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

DURING THE YEARS

1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842.

BY

CHARLES WILKES, U. S. N.

COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.

MEMBER OF THE AMERICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, ETC.

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS.

'V '

VOL. IV.

IN FIVE VOLUMES, -"<

PHILADELPH1 A:

LEA AND BLANCHARD.
1845.

ENTERED, ACCORDING TO THE ACT OF CONGRESS, IN THE YEAR 1841,

BY CHARLES WILKES, U. S. N.,
IN THE CLERK'S OFFICE OF THE DISTRICT COURT FOR THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.

1/5

STEREOTVPED BY J. FAGAN.
PRINTED BY C. SHERMAN.

CONTENTS OF VOL. IT.

CHAPTER I.

ARRIVAL OP THE KING AT HONOLULU— OUR VISIT TO HIM— KEKAULUOHI— DWELL-
INGS AND GARDENS OP FOREIGN RESIDENTS— DWELLINGS OF THE MISSIONARIES-
MISSIONARY PRESS— SEAMEN'S CHAPEL— POLITICAL INTERCOURSE WITH FOREIGN
NATIONS— MR. RICHARDS ENGAGED AS DIPLOMATIC AGENT-SUPREME COUNCIL OF
GOVERNMENT — SECOND INTERVIEW WITH THE KING-HISTORY OF THE EVENTS
THAT LED TO THE LAPLACE TREATY— FIRST ARRIVAL OP CATHOLIC PRIESTS—
THEY ARE HOSPITABLY RECEIVED— THEY ARE SUSPECTED OF PROMOTING A RE-
BELLION, AND EXPELLED— RUSSELL TREATY— ATTEMPT TO INTRODUCE PRIESTS
UNDER ITS SANCTION — UNITED ACTION OF CAPTAINS DU PETIT THOUARS AND
BELCHER— MORE PRIESTS ARRIVE— PENAL LAWS AGAINST CATHOLICS ENACTED—
THEY ARE REPEALED AT THE INSTANCE OF THE AMERICAN MISSIONARIES— ARRI-
VAL OF CAPTAIN LAPLACE-HIS MANIFESTO-HIS DEMANDS— HIS PROSCRIPTION OF
THE MISSIONARIES-CONDUCT OF THE FOREIGN RESIDENTS, AND OF THE NATIVE
CHIEFS— SIGNATURE OF THE TREATY— LAPLACE DEMANDS AND OBTAINS A COM-
MERCIAL TREATY— HE LANDS IN ARMS TO CELEBRATE MASS-CONSEQUENCES OF
THE LAPLACE TREATY— THE KING'S FEELINGS IN RELATION TO IT-HIS DESIRE TO
BE RECOGNISED BY THE UNITED STATES— HIS REMONSTRANCE TO THE FRENCH
GOVERNMENT— STATE OF CATHOLICISM — WRITTEN CONSTITUTION OF HAWAII —
ADMINISTRATION OF THE LAWS— CRIMINAL PROCESS- ANCIENT LAWS— SUCCESSION
TO THE THRONE— FEUDAL TENURES— PUNISHMENTS-TABOOS— PROMULGATION OF
LAWS — ORIGIN OF FIEFS— DIVISION OF LANDS — EFFECTS OF THE NEW LAWS-
TAXES— REVENUES— EXEMPTION FROM TAX — CRIMES — HAWAIIAN MYTHOLOGY-
TRADITIONS— ASTRONOMY— CALENDAR-IDEA OF ECLIPSES— KNOWLEDGE OF NAVI-
GATION—FEATS IN SWIMMING — SOCIAL ATTACHMENT AND TIES — INDOLENCE
ASCRIBED TO THE NATIVES— THEIR AMUSEMENTS— HOLUA— PLAYING IN THE SURF

—DANCES— CARDS— SEE-SAW— NATIVE PHYSICIANS AND MEDICINE 3—48

1* (v)

vj| CONTENTS.

CHAPTER 1 1.

SATURDAY IN HONOLULU-SUNDAY CHURCHES-SCHOOLS-TALENT OP THE SCHOL-
ARS FOR ARITHMETIC -BURIAL-GROUND -GRAVE OF DOUGLASS THE BOTANIST-
PLAYS— MAIKA— BUHENEHENE-THROWING THE LANCE— REPAIRS OF THE VESSELS
— COURT-MARTIAL — PUNISHMENT OF SWEENY, AND TWO MARINES — DISCHARGE
OF SWEENY— POLICE OF HONOLULU— ROADS— EXPEDITION OF THE TENDER— KOLOA
-DR. PICKERING AND MR. BRACKENRIDGE'S EXCURSION - WAIMEA-DR. SCHOOF-
HANAPEPE — CASCADE — CULTIVATION — DECREASING POPULATION — ITS CAUSES-
AGRICULTURE— SCHOOLS— CHURCH— ISLAND OF NIIHAU — DISTRICT OF KOLOA—
JOURNEY ACROSS THE ISLAND OF KAUAI — RIVER WAINIHA — EXCURSION OF
MESSRS PEALE AND RICH— LIHUI— NAWILIWILI— MR. AND MRS. LAFON— SCHOOLS
AND CHURCHES - HANAWALE-DEBORAH-HER FISH-PONDS-WATERFALL-BEAUTI-
FUL GROVE— TUTUI-NUT OIL— WAIOLI— MR. TITCOMB'S CULTURE OF SILK— INDIGO-
DIVINE SERVICE-CRUISE OF THE TENDER— WAILIOLI MOUNTAIN— POPULATION OF
HALELEA— RAWAILOA— WAIALUA— MOUNTAINS OF OAHU— SCHOOLS OF WAIALUA—
CHURCH — DISTRICT OF KOOLAU — CLIMATE OF WAI ALUA — INDUSTRY— SCHOOLS—
CHURCH-POPULATION—INTEMPERANCE—EXCURSION TO THE KAALA MOUNTAINS—
EWA— LAULO A— FOSSIL-SHELLS — CHURCH AND SCHOOLS OF EWA — POPULATION —
EXCURSION TO WAIANAE — MAUNA-KAALA — SALT LAKE — CAVES — FISH-PONDS —
KANEOHE— PEARL-RIVER HARBOUR-PRODUCTIONS OF PALI-KOOLAU— ITS CLlMATE
—SCHOOLS— RETURN OF THE FLYING-FISH—FISH-PONDS OF HONOLULU 49— b6

CHAPTER III.

THE TENDER IS DESPATCHED TO HAWAII — THE PORPOISE SAILS ON A SEPARATE
CRUISE— PREPARATIONS FOR THE ASCENT OF MAUNA LOA — KEALAKEAKUA —
NAPOLO— FACE OF THE COUNTRY— ITS PRODUCTIONS— ITS CLIMATE— ITS IMPROVE-
MENTS—ITS POPULATION-SCHOOLS-DISEASES—MONUMENT TO MARK WHERE COOK
WAS KILLED— DISTRICT OF KA1LAU— ITS CLIMATE— ITS POPULATION— DWELLINGS
— SCHOOLS -KUAKINI, OR GOVERNOR ADAMS — INDUSTRY OF THE NATIVES OF
KAILAU — TRADT. - I'SKFUL ARTS — COTTON MANUFACTURE — VICES — DISEASES —
.•MISSIONARIES-PLANTS— EXCURSION OF THE NATURALISTS — TEMPLE OF KAILI—
MOUNTAIN GEESE-LAVA STREAMS— OLD CRATERS-GRAZING LANDS— ARRIVAL AT
HILO AND RETURN TO HONOLULU— PLAN FOR THE FURTHER OPERATIONS OF THE
SaUADRON-PEACOCK AND FLYING-FISH-CASE OF GIDEON SMITH — CASE OF CAP-
TAIN DOW8ETT— PROPOSED EMPLOYMENT OF THE VINCENNES-SAILING OF THE
PEACOCK AND TENDER 87—108

CONTENTS. vii

CHAPTER IV.

THE VINCENNES LEAVES HONOLULU- DRUNKEN P^LOT— MESSRS. BRINSMADE AND
JUDD ACCOMPANY US— KANAKAS — PASSAGE TO HILO — BAY OP HILO — DISTANT
VIEW OF HAWAII— VIEW FROM HILO BAY-OBSERVATORY ESTABLISHED AT WAIA-
KEA — HILO — STRENGTH OF THE PARTY FOR THE ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN-
CONFUSION AMONG THE NATIVES — DEPARTURE FROM HILO — THE KING'S FISH-
PONDS— BYRON'S HILL — OLAA — PAHOIHOI LAVA — KAPUAUHI — IRON MORTAR —
TERRITORY OF PELE — FIRST VIEW OF MAUN A L(3 A — VOLCANO OF KILAUEA —
DEPARTURE FROM IT — SCARCITY OF WATER — CLINKERS — LOSS OF MR. RR1NS-
MADE'S STOCK OF WATER — DESERTER — THE WOODED REGION LEFT — CAVES —
SUNDAY STATION-RAGSDALE JOINS THE PARTY— DR. JUDD GOES IN SEARCH OF
SNOW — RECRUITING STATION — DESERTION OF THE NATIVES — FLAG STATION —
UNPLEASANT NIGHT — LONGLEY IS MISSED — SUMMIT OF MAUNA LOA REACHED—
ARRIVAL THERE OF MESSRS. JUDD AND PICKERING — CRATER RECONNOITRED —
ORIGIN OF THE CLINKERS— CHRISTMAS DAY— LONGLEY IS FOUND — VISIT TO THE
RECRUITING STATION— RETURN TO THE SUMMIT— ARRIVAL OF PROVISIONS FROM
THE SHIP — PENDULUM-HOUSE ERECTED— NEW YEAR'S DAY— PHENOMENA OF THE
CLOUDS — SURVEY OF THE SUMMIT BEGUN — PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS BEGUN —
SEVERE STORM-SURVEY OF THE CRATER— EXPERIMENTS ON SOUND— PENDULUM
EXPERIMENTS FINISHED-MOKU-A-WEO-WEO— HEIGHT OF MAUNA KEA-SURVEY OF
THE SUMMIT FINISHED 109—164

CHAPTER V.

DEPARTURE FROM PENDULUM PEAK — SYMPTOMS OF THE MOUNTAIN • SICKNESS —
ELECTRICAL PHENOMENA— DESCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN— ARRIVAL AT KILAUEA—
DESCENT OF MESSRS. BUDD AND ELD— LOSS OF A KANAKA— SURVEY OF KILAUEA—
SULPHUR-BANK—CIRCUIT OF THE CRATER— THIRD CRATER— LUA PELE— DR. JUDD'S
DESCENT INTO THE CRATER — HIS PERILOUS ADVENTURES— VIEW OF THE ERUP-
TION—SURVEY OF THE FIERY LAKE — BLACK LEDGE — ClUANTITY OF MATTER
DISCHARG ED-NEW DISPOSITION OF PARTIES— RETURN TO THE COAST— LUA PELE—
DEEP CREVICE-KALANOKAMO-PIT AND CONE CRATERS— MAP OF THE SOUTHEAST
PORTION OF HAWAII— ALEALEA-IKI— PANAU— RECENT ERUPTION— TIMBER FELLED
BY LAVA — TRUNCATED CONES ON THE LAVA— NAMES OF THE CONE-CRATERS —
KEKAHUNANUI— COURSE OF THE STREAM OF LAVA— CRATERS NEAR THE COAST-
WHITE OWL— PUNA— KANAKIKI — VOLCANIC SAND-HILLS — CHRYSOLITE — OLD AND
NEW LAVA — VIEW FROM THE SAND-HILLS — KEEAU — TRAITS OF NATIVE CHA-
RACTER— MODE OF RECKONING DISTANCES — RETURN TO HILO — PANDANUS TREE
AND ITS USES— DERANGED NATIVE— PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS BEGUN— DISCREPAN-
CIES IN THEM— APPARATUS REMOVED TO PANEO— STOPPAGE OF THE CLOCK— NE\V
DISTURBANCES IN THE EXPERIMENTS— APPARATUS REMOVED TO MOUNT KANUHA
-THE EXPERIMENTS ARE SUCCESSFUL 165—105

viii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI.

ASCENT OP MAUNA KEA BY DR. PICKERING AND MR. BRACKENRIDGE— " LONG ROAD"
—CASTLE'S STATION-CAVE—LOFTY PLAIN— TERMINAL PEAKS— DESCENT OP THE
MOUNTAIN — FATE OF MR. DOUGLASS— PUAHAI— MR. CASTLE'S RESIDENCE— THEIR
RETURN TO HILO — SURVEY OP HILO BAY — ACCIDENT OF THE LAUNCH— OCCUPA
TION OP THE OFFICERS LEFT IN THE VINCENNES— THEY ARE ENTERTAINED BY
KANUHA— KANUHA AND FAMILY ENTERTAINED ON BOARD— SUGAR MANUFACTURE
—COFFEE PLANTATIONS-CULTURE OF SUGAR AND COFFEE INTRODUCED BY MR.
GOODRICH — THEY ARE NEGLECTED AND DISCOURAGED BY HIS SUCCESSOR — MR.
COAN'S PAROCHIAL CHARGE— SCHOOLS AT HILO-WAILUKU FALLS— TACCA— INDIGO
— SANDALWOOD— RETURN OF MR. BRACKENRIDGE— EXPEDITION OP MESSRS. BRINS
MADE AND DRAYTON— LAVA STREAM-PAHUHALI ROAD— GREAT FLOOD OF LAVA-
DISTRICT OF WAIMEA— DISTRICT OF KOHALA — SCHOOL OF BLACKFISH— VISIT OF
MR. DRAYTON TO KILAUEA— DR. PICKERING'S VISIT TO KILAUEA— COMPARISON OF
MAUNA KEA AND MAUNA LOA-GREAT SWELL OF THE SEA IN 1837— EARTHQUAKES
—CLOSE OF OUR OPERATIONS — DESCRIPTION OF THE BAY OF HILO— UNFOUNDED
COMPLAINTS AGAINST THE SAILORS 197-231

CHAPTER VII.

MESSRS. PICKERING, DRAYTON, AND BRACKENRIDGE SAIL FROM MAUI-DEPARTURE
OF THE VINCENNES FROM HILO -HER ARRIVAL AT LAHAINA-DESCRIPTION OF
MAUI-VISIT TO THE KING-KING'S PALACE-TOWN OF LAHAINA-PRIVATE APART-
MENTS OF THE KING-HIS WIFE-EXCURSION TO THE SEMINARY OF WAILUKU-
WEST MAUI-BUILDINGS OF THE SEMINARY-HABITS AND DRESS OF THE SCHOLARS
-COURTSHIP BY LETTER-MERITS AND DEFECTS OF THE SEMINARY-MR. BAILY'S
RESIDENCE-SAND-HILLS-MOUND OF HUMAN BONES-RETURN TO LAHAINA-ONE
OF OUR BOATS LOST-ISLAND OF KAHOOLA WE -SEMINARY OF LAHAINALUNA -
DISADVANTAGES OF ITS POSITION - ITS ORIGINAL SYSTEM - CHANGES IN THE
SYSTEM — ITS PROBABLE FAILURE — APPEARANCE OP THE SCHOLARS — IMPROVE-
MENTS PROPOSED IN IT-SURVEY OP THE COASTS OF LAHAINA-ITS POPULATION-
CHURCH-DISTRICT OF WAILUKU-DISTRICT OF KULA-KING'S ENCOURAGEMENT OF
THE CULTURE OF SUGAR- PERSEVERANCE OF THE NATIVES - LABOURS OP THE

MISSIONARIES — POPULATION OF WAILUKU — TOUR OF MESSRS. PICKERING, DRAY
T<>\, AND BRACKI.\KIIK;K-NORTH COAST OP MAUI-MOUNT HALEAKALA-MR.

LANE AND MINOR'S PLANTATION -CAVE -CRATER OP HALEAKALA -WAILUKU
PASS - INFLUENCE OF BOOKS ON THE NATIVES — NATIVE CHARACTER — REGENT
KKKAULUOHI— LIEUT iAAVr I'.UDD DESPATCHED ON A SURVEY— WE TAKE I.I'AVi:
OF MAUI-LANAI-ICHTHYOLOGY-SURF AND TIDES-MOLOKAI-ARRIVAL OF THE
VIN' i:\\i;s AT HONOLULU— RETURN OP THE PORPOISE 23J-260

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VIII.

PORPOISE SAILS FROM OAHU — MANUEL RODRIGUEZ — WALKER'S ISLAND— MANHII—
ARATICA — SAKEN ISLAND — SEA-GULL GROUP— ISLAND OF BARCLAY DE TOLLY —
WOLCONSKY — DEATH OF A KANAKA — TAWEREE — MARGARET'S ISLAND — FOUR
CROWNS OF aUIROS— ARCHANGEL— ST. PABLO-INTERVIEW WITH THE NATIVES-
RETURN TO ARATICA— RESULTS OF THE BORING— THEORY OF CORAL ISLANDS —
TIDAL OBSERVATIONS— INHABITANTS OF ARATICA— CANOE SPOKEN— ARRIVAL AT
TAHITI — DOMESTIC ClUARRELS OF THE QUEEN — MEETING OF THE DISTRICT
SCHOOLS — MEETING OF THE AUXILIARY SOCIETIES — DISTURBANCE OF THE
MEETING — POLICE OF PAPIETI — AMERICAN COMMERCE AT TAHITI — PORPOISE
LEAVES TAHITI — MEETS THE TRADES — FLINT'S ISLAND — STAVER'S ISLAND —
PENRHYN'S ISLAND — ISLANDERS — THEIR LANGUAGE — THEIR TURBULENCE — AP-
PEARANCE OF THE WOMEN— FEROCITY OF THE ISLANDERS— THEIR ARMS— THEIR
CANOES — THEIR TALENT FOR HARANGUING — LIEUTENANT -COMMAND ANT RING-
GOLD RESOLVES TO RETURN— CURRENTS AND WINDS— ARRIVAL AT HONOLULU-
RESULTS OF THE CRUISE— PORPOISE FOUND TO NEED REPAIR— EFFECTS OF THE
LAPLACE TREATY — PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE — PRODUCTIONS OF THE
HAWAIIAN GROUP— ITS FLORA— CLIMATE AND DISEASES 261—287

CHAPTER IX.

DEPARTURE FROM OAHU— SICKNESS OF THE CREW OF THE PORPOISE-SEARCH FOR
UNKNOWN ISLANDS-CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT— BAR OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER— DE-
TERMINATION TO PROCEED TO THE NORTHWARD— DANQER OF THE VESSELS NEAR
CAPE GRENVILLE— WRECK OF A JAPANESE JUNK— INDIAN CANOE — STRAITS OF
JUAN DE FUCA— INDIANS VISIT THE SHIP— THEIR APPEARANCE— MODE OF TAKING
WILD-FOWL — PROTECTION ISLAND— PORT DISCOVERY— INDIANS— THEIR MANNERS,
ETC.— THEIR CANOES— THEIR WARS— GENERAL ORDER— WOODS AROUND PORT DIS-
COVERY—INDIAN MESSENGER — INDIAN BURIAL-PLACES—DEPARTURE FROM PORT
DISCOVERY— PORT TOWNSEND— PORT LAWRENCE— APPLE-TREE COVE— ADMIRALTY
INLET— PUGET SOUND— ANCHORAGE AT NISO.UALLY— VISIT FROM MR. ANDERSON
AND CAPTAIN M'NIEL — SCENERY AT NISaU ALLY — PLAN OF OUR OPERATIONS —
VISIT TO FORT NISQUALLY— MISSION-PUGET SOUND COMPANY— MOUNT RAINIER-
PRESENT OF BULLOCKS FROM MR. ANDERSON — STEAMER BEAVER — LIEUTENANT
JOHNSON'S PARTY SET OUT — DEPARTURE OF CAPTAIN WILKES'S PARTY — RIVER
NISaUALLY — CAMP AT SHUTE'S RIVER — BUTE PRAIRIE — CHICKEELES RIVER —
COWLITZ FARM - MR. FORREST'S HOSPITALITY — CLIMATE OF COWLITZ — SIMON
PLUMONDON — NATIVE MODE OF DRESSING LEATHER — EMBARKATION ON THE
COWLITZ RIVER-ITS SHORES- SUPPOSED BEDS OF COAL-ENTRANCE INTO THE
VOL. IV. B

x CONTENTS.

COLUMBIA WVER- MOUNT COFFIN — OAK POINT— ST. HELEN'S REACH — TONGUE
POINT — ASTORIA — EXCURSION TO POINT ADAMS — MISSIONARIES AT CLATSOP —
CLATSOP VILLAGE — PUNISHMENT OF A MURDERER— VOYAGE TO VANCOUVER —
TONGUE POINT— INDIAN MEDICINE- MAN — COFFIN ROCK — INDIAN MOURNING -
WARRIOR POINT— CALLAPUYA— VILLAGE OF VANCOUVER— FORT VANCOUVER— DR.
M'LAUGHLIN— COMPANY'S ESTABLISHMENT — BUSINESS TRANSACTED AT VANCOU-
VER-CONDITION OF THE COMPANY'S SERVANTS AND DEPENDANTS-HOSPITABLE
•.

RECEPTION OF THE MISSIONARIES — HALF-BREED CHILDREN — MORALS — CROPS-
FARM— DAIRY FARM— OLD FORT VANCOUVER-GRIST AND SAW MILLS-MANUFAC-
TURE OF AXES— SUDDEN RISE OF THE RIVER— PARTY OF YOUNG AMERICANS.

291— 338

CHAPTER X.

DEPARTURE FROM VANCOUVER— BANKS OF THE WILLAMETTE — BO AT -BUILDERS -
OAK ISLANDS— FALLS OF THE WILLAMETTE — MISSIONARIES — SALMON FISHERY-
INDIAN VILLAGE— FLOODS OF THE RIVER— CHAMPOOING— MR. JOHNSON AND OTHER
SETTLERS— THEIR DESIRE FOR LAWS — MICHEL LA FRAMBOISE — MR. BACHELET-
METHODIST MISSION — DR. BABCOCK — LANDS OF THE MISSION — CONFERENCE IN
RELATION TO LAWS — VISIT THE " MILL" — PLANS OF THE MISSIONARIES — MR.
HINESS SELECTION OF LAND— EXTENT OF THE MISSIONARY FIELD— CROSSING OF
THE WILLAMETTE-O'NEILL'S FARM— YAM HILLS-GAY'S RESIDENCE AND CHARAC-
TER—FARM OF A SON OF DR. M'LAUGHLIN — FLOODS — YOUNG'S FARM — CATTLE
IMPORTED FROM CALIFORNIA — BONES OF THE MASTODON — RETURN TO CHAM-
POOING—VISIT FROM THE SETTLERS — ROCKY RIDGE — DR. BAILEY'S FARM-MRS.
BAILEY — INDIAN TREATMENT OF THE SICK — WALKER'S FARM — BOAT- BUILDERS'
CAMP — RETURN TO VANCOUVER — MR. OGDEN AND HIS VOYAGEURS — NORTHERN
POSTS OF THE COMPANY— ADVANTAGES OF THE TERRITORY FOR GRAZING— PRICE
OF CATTLE — VALUE OF LABOUR — ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF THE
WILLAMETTE COUNTRY — HABITS AND SPECIES OF THE SALMON— DWELLINGS OF
THE INDIANS— THEIR GAMES OF CHANCE-KLACKAMUS VILLAGE— THEIR MODE OF
BURIAL — THEIR MEDICINE-MEN-INDIAN PREJUDICES— THEY CAUSE THE MURDER
OF MR. BLACK— MR. OGDEN OFFERS A CONVEYANCE TO COWLITZ— CHIEF OF AN
EXTINCT TRIBE-REASONS FOR THE DECAY OF THE INDIAN POPULATION-DEPAR-
TM:I: PROM VANCOUVER -EMBARKATION ON THE COLUMBIA -ENTRANCE INTO
THE COWLITZ— ARRIVAL AT COWLITZ FARM — MR. FORREST AND THE CHRONO-
METER—Cllli KKi:i,ES RIVER AND INDIANS-RETURN TO NISQUALLY 341-374

CHAPTER XL

SCIENTIFIC OPERATIONS AT NlSiif \I,I,Y - FACILITIES TENDERED BY MR. O(JI)K\
-MR. DRAYTON OKIiKKKI) To \(.,)\1|'A\Y JUM - MR. DRAYTON'S PREVIOUS RE-

CONTENTS. XI

SEARCHES— PREPARATIONS FOR THE EXPEDITION— BOATS— PACKAGES AND MODE
OF TRANSPORTATION— TRADE AT MR. OGDEN'S POSTS— DEPARTURE OF MR. DRAY-
TON FROM VANCOUVER — CASCADES-CASCADE MOUNTAINS— PORTAGES— GUMMING
THE BOATS — SUNKEN FOREST — RATTLESNAKES — METHODIST MISSION — INDIANS
WITHIN ITS SPHERE— THE DALLES— MODE OF CURING FISH THERE— MODE OF FISH-
ING—DESCRIPTION OF THE DALLES— SYSTEM OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY-
PORTAGE AT THE DALLES — MISSIONARY EFFORTS — IMPROVIDENCE OF THE IN-
DIANS—DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY— ITS CLIMATE— WISHAM— CHUTES RIVER-
JOHN DAY'S RIVER— END OF THE WOODS— HIEROGLYPHIC ROCKS— BURIAL-PLACE-
GRAND RAPIDS-WINDMILL ROCK— ARRIVAL OF MR. DRAYTON AT WALLA WALLA-
CHARACTER AND CONDITION OF THE COMPANY'S SERVANTS— SEPARATION FROM
MR. OGDEN— VISIT TO DR. WHITMAN— MISSIONARY STATIONS OF THE AMERICAN
BOARD — WAIILAPTU — GRANDE RONDE — FLAG OF PEACE — CONDITION OF THE
MISSIONARIES — CLIMATE — TREES— PROSPECTS OF THE MISSION— THEIR SCHOOL —
INDIAN FARMING— BLUE MOUNTAINS-HOT WINDS— MODE OF FISHING AT WALLA-
WALLA—ARRIVAL OF INDIANS — FALL OF THE COLUMBIA — WALLAWALLA AND
NEZ PERCE TRIBES-THEIR MODE OF DRESSING SKINS— MODE OF CARRYING THEIR
CHILDREN — MEDICINE - WOMAN — CUSTOMS IN RELATION TO FEMALES — GREAT
FALLS OF THE COLUMBIA— COMPARISON OF THE COLUMBIA AND SNAKE RIVERS-
MR DRAYTON LEAVES WALLAWALLA— INDIANS AT PRAYER— EXTORTION BY THE
INDIANS— THEIR ATTEMPTS AT THEFT— RETURN OF MR. DRAYTON TO VANCOUVER.

377—405

CHAPTER XII.

BAKERY AT NISQUALLY — PROGRESS OF THE SURVEYS -LOSS OF AN EYE-PIECE —
FRUITLESS SEARCH FOR IT-SURVEY OF HOOD'S CANAL— CELEBRATION OF FOURTH
OF JULY — VISIT FROM DR. M'LAUGHLIN — MOUNT RAINIER AND OTHER SNOWY
MOUNTAINS— EXPEDITION TO THE BUTE PRAIRIES— FARM OF THE COMPANY AT
NISQUALLY — SURVEY OF PUGET SOUND — RETURN OF LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S
PARTY— DISADVANTAGES OF THE POST AT NISQUALLY — NISQUALLY INDIANS-
LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S OPERATIONS— EQUIPMENT OF HIS PARTY— HIS GUIDE— HIS
FIRST CAMP — HIS SECOND CAMP — PUYALLUP RIVER — DIFFICULT PATHS — LARGE
ARBOR VITM TREES— SMALOCHO RIVER— LOSS OF CAMP EQUIPAGE— GREAT SIZE OF
THE SPRUCE TREES-LA TETE MOUNTAIN— LITTLE PRAIRIE-CAMP AT THE EDGE
OF THE SNOW— DISTANT VIEW OF MOUNT RAINIER-SUMMIT OF THE RIDGE— ACCI-
DENT TO THE CHRONOMETER — INDIANS DISMISSED — SMALOCHO RIVER — FIRE IN
THE WOODS— YAKIMA TRIBE— INTERVIEW WITH ITS CHIEF— HE EXCHANGES HORSES
—ANOTHER VIEW OF MOUNT RAINIER— SPOKANE INDIANS— YAKIMA RIVER— VERY
ELEVATED GROUNDS— DESCENT TOWARDS THE COLUMBIA-COLUMBIA RIVER— PIS-
CHOUS RIVER-INDIAN CULTIVATION— VIEW OF THE COLUMBIA— POINT DE BOIS—
OKONAGAN INDIANS— HIGH PRAIRIE— MOUNT ST. PIERRE— FORT OKONAGAN— FORT
VOL. IV- 2

cji . CONTENTS.

THOMPSON-ARRIVAL OF MR. MAXWELL — FOOD OF THE INDIANS, AND OF THE
COMPANY'S SERVANTS — AMUSEMENT OF THE INDIANS-DEPARTURE FROM FORT
OKONAGAN— LIEUTENANT JOHNSON LOSES HIS WAY-GRASSY PRAIRIE — GRANDE
nil 'I. r.K — ARTIFICIAL HORIZON BROKEN — LIEUTENANT JOHNSON LEAVES THE
PARTY-THE PARTY ARRIVES AT FORT COLVILLE— LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S RIDE
UP THE SPOKANE— MISSIONARY STATION OF CHIMIKAINE-CORNELIU3, CHIEF OF
THE SPOKANE TRIBE— SINGULAR PROPHECY— LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S ARRIVAL AT
FORT COLVILLE 409—440

CHAPTER XIII.

CONTINUATION OF LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S TOUR— FORT COLVILLE— KETTLE FALLS
— QUIARLPI INDIANS— HEIGHT OF FORT COLVILLE ABOVE THE SEA— ITS CLIMATE-
ITS AGRICULTURE— SPOKANE INDIANS— THEIR MODE OF LIFE — THEIR PHYSICAL
CHARACTER — THEIR DRESS — THEIR GOVERNMENT AND DOMESTIC RELATIONS —
AUTHORITY OF THEIR CHIEFS — THEIR PUNISHMENTS — THEIR SUPERSTITIONS —
THEIR CALENDAR— OPERATIONS OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY IN THE NORTH-
OUTPOSTS OF COLVILLE— FORT CHILCOTIN— FORT GEORGE— FORT THOMPSON— FORT
ST. JAMES — NORTHERN INDIANS — TAKALI AND ATNAHS — THEIR DRESS— THEIR
HABITATIONS — THEIR FOOD— THEIR MODE OF FISHING— THEIR FUNERAL RITES—
THEIR MEDICINE-MEN— FRASER'S RIVER— LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S PARTY LEAVES
FORT COLVILLE — MISSIONARY STATION AT CHIMIKAINE — CHARACTER OF THE
NEIGHBOURING INDIANS— THEIR TREATMENT OF FEMALES— THEIR BURIALS— THEIR
MARRIAGES — DEPARTURE FROM THE MISSION — ADVENTURE AT A CAMP OF SPO-
KANE INDIANS-INDIANS TRAVELLING— KOOSKOOSKEE INDIANS— MISSION AT LAP-
WAI—MR. SPALDING— HIS EXERTIONS TO CIVILIZE THE INDIANS— FREQUENT VISITS
OF THE OREGON INDIANS TO THE UNITED STATES — DEPARTURE FROM LAPWAI
—INDIAN FARMS— HALF-BREEDS— MIGRATION OF THE BUFFALO — SNAKE RIVER-
SANDY PESERT— ccauR D-ALENE— NEZPERCE INDIANS— INDIANS AROUND LAPWAI

—SAW-MILL-DECREASE OF WILD ANIMALS— MR. HALE'S TOUR, AND REMARKS-
FALLS OF THE PELUSE — LEGEND RELATING TO THEM — WALLAWALLA — LAN-
GUAGES OF INDIANS— YAKIMA RIVER— MISERABLE GROUP OF SQUAWS-SLOW COM-
MUNICATION OF NEWS IN OREGON— NUMKKors RATTLESNAKES — SPIPEN RIVER—
TIDIAS'S CAMP — PRAIRIES— LITTLE PRAIRIE— SMALOCHO RIVER— RETURN TO NI8-
QUALLY — EASTERN INDIANS OF OREGON — BLACKFEET — SHOSHONES — CROWS—
- \fKS-YOUTAS— TRIBES ALLIED TO THE BONACKS-MONKEY INDIANS-APACHES
I'KKSSI Hi: OF THE TRIBKS TOWARDS THE SOUTH— ITS PROBABLE CAUSES.. .443— 474

CHAPTER .XIV.

RETfRV FROM TUT PCRVEY?-\EW LAND EM-EDITION FITTED OUT-LEAVE TAKING
— DEi-.\iiTri:r. FIMM NUKW ALLY— ANXIETY KIOSI-CCTIVC THE PEACOCK- PRAISE-

CONTENTS. xiii

WORTHY SPIRIT OF THE OFFICERS AND CREW— VASHON'S ISLAND-NEW DUNGENESS

— THE PORPOISE JOINS THE VINCENNES — OPERATIONS OF THE PORPOISE — COM-
MENCEMENT BAY —PORT ORCHARD— PORT MADISON-CATHOLIC MISSION— METEOR
— PENN'S COVE— GOOD EFFECTS OF THE MISSIONARY EFFORTS — FORTIFICATIONS
OF THE INDIANS — MINERAL SPRING— PORT GARDNER — SACHET INDIANS — THEIR
DRESS— THEIR DISEASES— DECEPTION PASSAGE-PASSAGE INTO BELLINGHAM BAY

— INDIAN TRIBES — ERASER'S RIVER — PLANS OF FURTHER OPERATIONS — BOAT
EXPEDITION ACROSS THE STRAITS— NEWS OF THE LOSS OF THE PEACOCK-CHANGE
OF PLANS— MESSAGE SENT TO ASTORIA — VINCENNES AND PORPOISE SAIL FROM
NEW DUNGENESS— PORT SCARBOROUGH— CLASSET INDIANS— THEIR MODE OF TAKING
WHALES— DEPARTURE FROM THE STRAITS OF DE FUCA— DE FUCA'S PILLAR— POR-
POISE PARTS COMPANY — SOUNDINGS ON THE COAST — CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT —
SHIP OROZIMBO— MEETING WITH CAPTAIN HUDSON— SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE
COLUMBIA RIVER— DETAILS OF THE PEACOCK'S DISASTER— WANT OF GOOD PILOTS
—PERILOUS POSITION OF THE PEACOCK'S BOATS— ALL THE OFFICERS AND CREW
SAFELY LANDED— THEIR KIND RECEPTION BY THE OFFICERS OF THE HUDSON BAY
COMPANY AND THE MISSIONARIES— NEW DISPOSITION OF THE SQUADRON— PORPOISE
ENTERS THE COLUMBIA RIVER— VINCENNES SAILS FOR SAN FRANCISCO ..477—496

CHAPTER I.

CONTENTS.

ARRIVAL OF THE KING AT HONOLULU— OUR VISIT TO HIM— KEKAULUOHI— DWELL-
INGS AND GARDENS OF FOREIGN RESIDENTS— DWELLINGS OF THE MISSIONARIES-
MISSIONARY PRESS — SEAMEN'S CHAPEL— POLITICAL INTERCOURSE WITH FOREIGN
NATIONS— MR. RICHARDS ENGAGED AS DIPLOMATIC AGENT-SUPREME COUNCIL OF
GOVERNMENT — SECOND INTERVIEW WITH THE KING — HISTORY OF THE EVENTS
THAT LED TO THE LAPLACE TREATY — FIRST ARRIVAL OF CATHOLIC PRIESTS—
THEY ARE HOSPITABLY RECEIVED — THEY ARE SUSPECTED OF PROMOTING A RE
BELLION, AND EXPELLED — RUSSELL TREATY — ATTEMPT TO INTRODUCE PRIESTS
UNDER ITS SANCTION — UNITED ACTION OF CAPTAINS DU PETIT THOUARS AND
BELCHER — MORE PRIESTS ARRIVE — PENAL LAWS AGAINST CATHOLICS ENACTED—
THEY ARE REPEALED AT THE INSTANCE OF THE AMERICAN MISSIONARIES— ARRI-
VAL OF CAPTAIN LAPLACE-HIS MANIFESTO-HIS DEMANDS— HIS PROSCRIPTION OF
THE MISSIONARIES— CONDUCT OF THE FOREIGN RESIDENTS, AND OF THE NATIVE
CHIEFS -SIGNATURE OF THE TREATY-LAPLACE DEMANDS AND OBTAINS A COM-
MERCIAL TREATY— HE LANDS IN ARMS TO CELEBRATE MASS-CONSEaUENCES OF
THE LAPLACE TREATY— THE KING'S FEELINGS IN RELATION TO IT— HIS DESIRE TO
BE RECOGNISED BY THE UNITED STATES — HIS REMONSTRANCE TO THE FRENCH
GOVERNMENT — STATE OF CATHOLICISM — WRITTEN CONSTITUTION OF HAWAII —
ADMINISTRATION OF THE L \WS-CRIMINAL PROCESS— ANCIENT LAWS— SUCCESSION
TO THE THRONE — FEUDAL TENURES — PUNISHMENTS— TABOOS— PROMULGATION OF
LAWS— ORIGIN OF FIEFS— DIVISION OF LANDS— EFFECTS OF THE NEW LAWS— TAXES
—REVENUES — EXEMPTION FROM TAX — CRIMES — HAWAIIAN MYTHOLOGY — TRADI-
TIONS—ASTRONOMY— CALENDAR— IDEA OF ECLIPSES— KNOWLEDGE OF NAVIGATION
—FEATS IN SWIMMING— SOCIAL ATTACHMENT AND TIES— INDOLENCE ASCRIBED TO
THE NATIVES — THEIR AMUSEMENTS — HOLU A — PLAYING IN THE SURF— DANCES-
CARDS— SEE-SAW— NATIVE PHYSICIANS AND MEDICINE.

NARRATIVE

OF

THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

CHAPTER I.

HAWAIIAN GROUP.

1840.

THE king, Kamehameha III., who had given orders that he should
be sent for as soon as the Vincennes arrived, reached Honolulu on the
29th September, from Maui. The next day I waited upon him, ac-
companied by our consul, Mr. Brinsmade, and by many of the officers
and naturalists, at his quarters near the fort. A soldier dressed in a
scarlet uniform stood on guard at the door. We were ushered into
the audience-chamber, and presented to the king, whom we found
seated in the midst of his retinue. The apartment was composed of
two large rooms with low ceilings, communicating by folding doors.
On the right of the king was Kekauluohi, a daughter of Kamehameha
I., who acts as prime minister; and there were also present, among
others, Kekuanaoa, the governor of Oahu, Mr. Richards, who is the
king's interpreter and adviser, Haalilio, John Young, and the officers
of the body-guard.

The king was dressed in a blue coat, white pantaloons, and vest.
We afterwards understood that he had prepared himself to receive us
in full costume, but on seeing us approaching in undress uniform, he

had taken off his robes of state.

0)

4 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

The appearance of the king is prepossessing : he is rather robust,
above the middle height, has a good expression of countenance, and
pleasing manners.

The person who attracted our attention most, was Kekauluohi.
This lady is upwards of six feet in height ; her frame is exceedingly
large and well covered with fat. She was dressed in yellow silk, with
enormously large gigot sleeves, and wore on her head a tiara of beau-
tiful yellow feathers interspersed with a few of a scarlet colour.*
Above the feathers appeared a large tortoise-shell comb, that confined
her straight black hair. Her shoulders were covered with a richly-
embroidered shawl of scarlet crape. She sat in a large arm-chair,
over which was thrown a robe made of the same kind of yellow
feathers as decked her tiara. Her feet were encased in white cotton
stockings and men's shoes. She was altogether one of the most re-
markable-looking personages I have ever seen.

The governor was handsomely dressed in a uniform of blue and
gold.

The conversation was carried on with ease through the interpreta-
tion of Mr. Richards, and left upon our minds a favourable impression
of the intelligence of the royal family of these islands. One thing
was certain, namely, that, in regard to personal size, they are unsur-
passed by any family that has ever come under rny notice.

I next returned the visits I had received from the foreign residents,
in which duty I was accompanied by our consul. I found many of
them living in very comfortable stone houses, which were surrounded
with young plantations of ornamental shrubs and trees. These plan-
tations, with their gardens, are kept in a thriving state by means of
irrigation. The water for this purpose is raised by windmills, that
work pumps, from wells about ten feet in depth. It was represented
to me that the wrater in these wells rose and fell with the flow and ebb
of the tide ; but after frequent trials of that in the rear of the house
which I occupied, I could detect no variation greater than an inch or
two. The wells are sunk through the bed of coral on which the town
is built, and water is every where found beneath it. The water is not
perfectly fresh, and many persons have that which they drink, brought
from the valley of Nuuanu.

* These feathers are among the most celebrated productions of these islands, and some
idea of their cost may be formed when it is stated that each bird yields only a few, and
that some thousands arc required to form a head-dress. The wreath worn by Kekauluohi,
was valued at $250, and her robe at 82,500. The birds (Melitlircpl.cs pacifica) are taken
by means of birdlime, made from the pisonia, and the catching of them is practised as a
trade by the mountaineers. The wearing of these feathers is a symbol of high rank.

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 5

I also had the pleasure of visiting the missionaries ; and as many
misrepresentations have been published, and much misunderstanding
exists, relative to their domiciles, I trust I may be excused if I give a
short description of their interior, to set the matter at rest. It will I
think be sufficient to satisfy any one that they are not as luxurious in
their furniture as has been sometimes represented. Their houses are
generally one story and a half high, situated fifteen or twenty paces
within an unpretending gate, and the garden is surrounded by adobe
walls about seven or eight feet high. Some of the houses are of stone,
but most of them are of wood ; they are from twenty to thirty feet
square, and twenty feet high, and have the appearance of having been
added to as the prosperity of the mission increased. The front door
opens into the principal room, which is covered with a mat or common
ingrain carpeting, and furnished with a table, a few Windsor chairs, a
rocking-chair, and sofa, all of wood. There is a very high mantel,
but no fire-place, the latter not being needed. On the mantel are
placed four glass lamps, each with one burner, and in the centre a
small china vase, with a bunch of flowers in it. Several coloured
scriptural prints hang on the walls about a foot below the ceiling ; on
the table were a few devotional books.

The eating-room adjoins the principal room, and in one corner
stands a cupboard, or an old sideboard, very much the worse for wear.
This contained the common earthenware used at meals. A native girl,
or woman, is all the " help ;" and both the master and mistress take a
part in many of the domestic duties. As to their fare, it is plain,
simple, and wholesome, and always accompanied with a hearty wel-
come and cheerful, contented faces, — at least, I found it so. The
salaries of all, both clerical and secular members, are the same,
namely, four hundred dollars for a family. How it is possible for them
to clothe and maintain a family on such a stipend at Honolulu, I am
unable to conceive. They receive no other compensation, nor are they
allowed to hold any property for themselves, not even a cow. All
must belong to the mission, and be paid for by it.

To several of the missionaries I feel indebted for unsolicited kind-
nesses, and I spent many agreeable hours in their society. I must bear
testimony that I saw nothing but a truly charitable and Christian
bearing towards others throughout my intercourse with them, and
heard none but the most charitable expressions towards their assailants.
Heedless of the tongue of scandal, they pursued their duties with even-
ness of temper, and highly laudable good-will.

Near the missionaries' dwellings is their printing establishment
under the superintendence of Mr. Rogers. Here they have three

A2

Q HAWAIIAN GROUP.

presses, which are generally in active employment. The workmen
are all natives, and, from Mr. Rogers's account, they work very
steadily, during the hours of labour, throughout the year. This
occupation is considered as the road to preferment; for the know-
ledge and habits of industry they acquire in it naturally raise them
above their fellows, and they are soon required for the wants of the
country, either in teaching schools or other employments under the
government.

I was told that upwards of four reams of paper are printed daily,
affording an extensive circulation of books in the native language.
Eleven thousand copies of the whole Bible have been printed, and two
weekly papers are published, one in English, called the Polynesian, the
other in the Hawaiian language, which the natives generally read.
They have likewise a book-bindery, under the direction of the society.
Many tracts are also published, some of which are by native authors.
Of these I cannot pass at least one without naming him. This is
David Maro, who is highly esteemed by all who know him, and who
lends the missionaries his aid, in mind as well as example, in amelio-
rating the condition of his countrymen, and checking licentiousness.
At the same time he sets an example of industry, by farming with his
own hands, and manufactures from his sugar-cane an excellent mo-
lasses.

Though not actually connected with the mission, the Seaman's
Chape], and its pious and enlightened pastor, the Rev. Mr. Diell, assist
in doing great good among the sailors who frequent the port. The
chapel is a neat wooden building, and is chiefly frequented by the
foreign residents and sailors in port. From its cupola, on the Sabbath,
always waves the Bethel flag; and it is generally well attended. The
Rev. Mr. Diell, to the regret of all, was about returning home. He
was in the last stage of consumption, but hoped to reach his native
land before his dissolution, which he felt and knew was rapidly ap-
proaching. I regretted to hear that in this hope he was disappointed,
having died on the homeward passage. He was truly a pattern of
resignation, and was beloved by the whole community. He had done
much, I have been told, to soften the asperities between the contending
factions, and to arrest the course of vice, which, on his arrival, he
found stalking abroad, regardless of moral laws, and setting at nought
all those enacted by the government for the protection of the peace and
quietness of the well-disposed, as well as for punishing those who were
guilty of crime.

As the natives, under the tuition of the missionaries, emerged from
barbarism, instead of deriving encouragement from their intercourse

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 7

with foreigners, difficulties were thrown in the way. The chief agents
in the vexations to which the government has been exposed, are the
designing individuals who hold the situation of consuls of the two great
European powers ; and through their baleful influence the difficulties
have been continually increasing, until, finally, these islands and their
government have been forced upon the attention of the whole civilized
world. All the laws and regulations established by the kings and
chiefs for repressing immorality and vice, were not only derided, but
often set at open defiance, because they clashed with the interests of
some of the individuals settled here. If attempts were made to enforce
them, official remonstrances were resorted to, accompanied by threats
of punishment. As this, for a long time, did not follow, the matter
came to be considered as a systematic course of bullying, which soon
lost its effect, and remained unheeded. When these idle threats failed
to effect their object, the new one of the arrival of a man-of-war was
held out as a terror. In these disputes the missionaries seldom took a
part, even in the way of advice, and left the chiefs to their own
guidance. They did not feel themselves competent to give advice upon
international questions, and, besides, considered them as of a temporal
character ; for which reason they believed it their duty to abstain from
any connexion with the disputes. They could not, however, avoid
being as much surprised as the chiefs themselves were, at the continu-
ally renewed difficulties which were made by these troublesome
officials, and which there was nothing in the laws or regulations to
justify.

As to the threat of the coming of a man-of-war, the natives rather
looked to it as the sure termination of the vexations to which they were
exposed.. They had formed their opinion of the character and probable
course of action of the naval officers of either of the two great powers
from the visit of Lord Byron in H. B. M. frigate Blonde. This vessel
had been the bearer of the bodies of the late King Liho-liho and his wife
from England, and her commander had made a most favourable
impression upon the chiefs and people. They therefore expected that
on the arrival of another man-of-war, all existing difficulties would be
removed, and that their good intentions and strict adherence to justice
would be made manifest. In this expectation they were disappointed ;
the British naval commanders who came afterwards were not Byrons,
and were, with one or two exceptions, the willing tools of the designing
consul. Influenced by his erroneous representations, they demanded
apologies and concessions, and endeavoured to dictate treaties. The
regent and chiefs resisted these demands, and many disagreeable inter-
views occurred.

8 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

England was not the only nation whose ships of war were brought
to aid in overawing the natives. A Frenchman, who claimed the title
of consul, although not recognised as such by the king, persuaded the
captain of a French frigate to insist upon his being acknowledged as
a government agent. Thus, while this half-civilized community was
struggling to make advances in morals and religion, French and
English men-of-war, alternately, and occasionally in concert, did all in
their power to break down the laws and regulations by which alone
the union of the native barbarism with the worst vices of civilization
could be prevented.

In this state of things it became evident to the king and chiefs that
they were in want of information in relation to international law, and
they in consequence desired to obtain a competent person to give them
advice on that subject. For this purpose they endeavoured to procure
a suitable counsellor from the United States. Failing in this attempt,
they requested the Rev. Mr. Richards, one of the missionaries, to
undertake this duty.

The missionaries, as a body, seem to have thought it a duty to
abstain from meddling with any temporal matters, but Mr. Richards
was prevailed upon to serve. As respects the internal policy of the
islands, no better guide than this gentleman could possibly have been
chosen. But like the other missionaries, he was but little versed and
had no experience in the affairs of government. He was unused to
the petty squabbling of the foreign officials, and his mind was far above
the ignoble task of disputing with the revilers of all law and religion.

I had the pleasure of becoming intimately acquainted with Mr.
Richards, in his private capacity, and enjoyed an opportunity of judg-
ing as to the manner in which he performed his public functions; and
I cannot but felicitate the government and people of Hawaii upon their
fortune in obtaining the services of one who has made such exertions
in their behalf, and who is so well qualified for the responsible situation
he holds.

Mr. Richards had, as missionary, been for years a resident of these
islands, and was thus in close connexion with the king and chiefs in
their spiritual concerns. That they should have desired his counsel
in their temporal affairs, is a strong proof of the affection and esteem
with which they regarded him, and is alike creditable to his character
and the soundness of their judgment. It was not, however, to be
received as an evidence of any undue influence of the missionaries in
political questions ; and from a close examination I am satisfied that no
such influence exists. Mr. Richards, since his appointment has no
voice in council, and is merely an adviser on such questions as the

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 9

council may consider as demanding an acquaintance with the usages
of civilized nations.

The council, in which the government is in fact vested, is composed
of thirteen persons ranking as chiefs of the highest order, four of whom
are females.

When any subject demands their consideration, the facts and reasons,
pro and con, are fully laid before the council, in a comprehensive and
simple manner, and the vote and decision of its members are had,
without any further recourse to Mr. Richards. The subject is always
acted upon with great deliberation, and frequently with much discri-
mination and judgment ; for not only are the chiefs a strong-minded
people, but the female members of the council are also remarkable
in this respect, and all appear desirous of doing what is right and
proper.

An anecdote of what occurred at one of their deliberations, will, I
think, illustrate their simple mode of coming to a proper decision, and
show that when they are made to understand that any act or regu-
lation will prove unjust, they are quite desirous to revise their own
intended vote.

When they had under consideration the law relative to the descent
of property, and previous to its final passage, each was, as usual,
asked whether it should become a law. All had assented to its passage
except one of the female members, who, when the interrogatory was
put to her, laughed, but gave no answer. On being pressed, she said,
"The law to which you have assented, has it not passed1? My vote
is not then needed." But, supposing from this, that she had reasons
for withholding her vote, they pressed her to speak, when she asked,
" Does not this proposed law give one-third of the property to the king,
and two-thirds to the heirs of every one?" Yes. "Is this just? How
differently does this affect one or two of the chiefs and myself! They
have no children ; I have four. My heirs will suffer, theirs will not.
This is not right."

They saw the subject in a new light, and at once determined to
adjourn, for the purpose of thinking the affair over. They finally
came to the conclusion, that all the property of those who had children
should go to the offspring, but that of the property of those who had no
direct heirs, the king should be entitled to one-third. Thus stands the
law at present.

On the 2d October, I received a visit from Mr. Richards, who com-
municated to me the desire of the king that I should visit him. In
conformity with this request, I called upon him, accompanied by
Captain Hudson. Although I had departed, after my first visit,

VOL. iv. 2

10 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

highly prepossescd in his favour, I was not prepared to find him so
easy and gentlemanly in his manners as he now appeared. He was
alone when he received us, and in a few minutes, we found that he was
able to express himself very intelligibly in English, and was quick in
comprehending what was said to him.

He was found at one end of the large grass-house built for him by
the Governor Kekuanaoa.* He received us in a friendly manner.
From the representations that had been made to me, I had been led to
believe that the king was not only dull of apprehension, but had little
disposition to engage in or talk of the affairs of government ; I found
him, on the contrary, exhibiting an intimate acquaintance with them.
He entered fully and frankly in the discussion of all the matters in
relation to which disputes had arisen between him and foreign nations;
and I, on the other hand, was desirous to elicit his views with regard
to the difficulties he had for the last year or two encountered, and
learn the feelings he had experienced in the arduous situations in which
he had been placed.

He spoke of the manner in which foreigners had obtruded them-
selves into the affairs of his government, so that no one of its acts was
permitted to pass without his being called, in a rude and uncivil manner,
to account for it. He stated that he found great difficulty in acting
correctly; for foreigners, whom he and his chiefs had treated with
every possible attention, had from interested motives, urged measures
upon him which he knew to be wrong, and had, in many cases,
abused the confidence he had placed in them. He expressed the
strongest desire to do right, and to protect his people from evil influ-
ences and the encroachments of designing persons, by wholesome laws
and regulations.

The treaty which he had been compelled to sign by Captain La-
place, of the French frigate Artemise, was alluded to by him in terms
of mortification : he regretted that he had done an act and yielded to
a measure which had rendered nugatory his municipal laws and regu-
lations.

To explain this part of the conversation, it will be necessary to
relate some particulars of the circumstances which led to this inter-
ference of a French commander with the laws and ordinances of a
weak, and, as I think it will appear clearly, an unoffending people.

There has always been a party among the foreign residents op-

* This building is about sixty feet long by forty feet wide, and contains only one room,
which may, however, be divided by movable screens into several apartments. The floor
was covered with mats. The whole was well adapted to the heat of the climate, and the
smell of the sweet-scented grass was agreeable and refreshing.

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 11

posed to the improvements which are taking place in the morals and
habits of the Hawaiian people under the influence of the missionaries.
My position enabled me to hear the statements of both parties, and
although the heat of the dispute had in some degree abated, mutual
complaints were still made. By a comparison of the two statements,
the truth does not appear difficult to be reached.

The party opposed to the missionaries were anxious to counteract
the influence they ascribe to them ; and for this purpose, when they
saw the old heathen practices and vicious habits of the people rapidly
vanishing, bethought themselves of the Roman Catholic priests, and
seem to have desired to excite a sectarian war as one of the most
effectual means of opposing the progress of the Protestant missionary
cause. For this purpose they held out inducements to those priests to
enter and establish themselves in the Hawaiian territory. This was in
direct defiance of the law, which had made the Protestant the esta-
blished and solely tolerated religion of the state.

This principle, by which all forms of worship except one were
excluded, seems to have been adopted by the king and chiefs, in the
belief that two creeds would have tended to distract the minds of the
people, and produce contention and confusion. What share the mis-
sionaries had in bringing them to this conclusion, I found it impossible
clearly to ascertain; but by information obtained from those best
informed on the subject, I was satisfied that the accounts of the
persecutions undergone by Catholic converts, and of the cruelties
said to have been endured by them, were much exaggerated. Nor
were these in any case to be imputed directly to the missionaries,
who had in many instances endeavoured to prevent the infliction of
punishment for religious reasons. Of cruel treatment for this cause,
I could learn no authenticated instance, nor did I meet with any one
who could adduce facts from his own knowledge, although I sought
information from those inimical to the missionaries, as well as from
those who favour them. That the missionaries and their proselytes
entertain apprehensions of evil from the propagation of Romanism
is true, but I found less illiberality on the subject of religious forms
existing in the Hawaiian Islands than in any place I visited on the
cruise; less than is entertained by opposing sects in our country; and
far less than exists in Catholic countries against those who hold the
Protestant faith.

In spite of the prohibitory law, it is a notorious and indisputable
fact, that the first Catholic priests, who landed in 1827, were kindly
treated by all classes of natives, and by the Protestant missionaries.
The American mission even furnished them with the books they had

12 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

printed to enable them to learn the Hawaiian language. When, how-
ever, mass was first publicly celebrated, the converted natives in gene-
ral took an aversion to that mode of worship, as it appeared to them
a step backwards towards their ancient idolatry; and the very cir-
cumstance which, had they continued heathen, might have been an
inducement to adopt, served now to alienate them from it.

No serious disturbances in relation to religion occurred until 1830,
when the Catholic missionaries were considered to have been engaged
in promoting the attempted rebellion of Lilika. The Catholics, for
this reason, were associated in the minds of the rulers with the oppo-
nents of good order and the violators of the laws. The chiefs, in con-
sequence, became jealous of their religion, and of their attempts to
promulgate their doctrines. Whatever may have been the truth of the
suspicion of the interference of the Catholic priests with the affairs of
government, there can be no doubt that the proceedings which followed
were dictated by reasons of state, not by sectarian religious feelings.
It was determined to expel the priests from the island, and they were
sent to California, at the expense of the government, in a vessel' fitted
out for the purpose.

No further attempt was made by the Catholics to propagate their
doctrines in these islands until 1836, when the Rev. Mr. Walsh landed
secretly. When his calling became known, he was ordered to depart;
but, after various excuses for delay, finally obtained permission to
remain, on condition that he would not attempt to propagate his
religion.

In November of the same year, Captain Russell, of H. B. M. Ship
Acteon, made a treaty with Kamehameha III. One of its articles
provided for the protection of British subjects and property ; and under
this treaty with a nation whose established religion is Protestant, it
was resolved that an attempt should be made to introduce Catholic
missionaries again, by making use of the British flag, and by claiming
that at least one of them, an Irishman, came under the protection of its
provisions.

The brig Clementine arrived, under British colours, having a number
of Catholic priests on board, who landed. Great excitement was at
once produced in Oahu, and they were forthwith ordered to re-embark
and depart in the same vessel. This they refused, but were compelled
by threats to comply, no force, however, being used. Although under
English colours, the vessel was owned by the French consul ; but he,
when asked by the authorities of Oahu to interfere, denied that he had
any control over the vessel, asserting that she had been chartered.

The Catholic priests having been compelled to re-embark, the vessel

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 13

was abandoned by the owners and those who had chartered her. Her
colours were hauled down by the French, and burnt in the street by
the British consul, and a large amount of damages was claimed from
the government, on the plea that she had been forcibly seized.

This transaction had hardly occurred, when the French frigate
Venus, Captain Du Petit Thouars, and H. B. M. ship Sulphur, Captain
Belcher, arrived. The two consuls did all in their power to make it
appear that a gross violation of the rights of their respective citizens
had been committed. The scenes which followed were disgraceful ;
for instance, the English consul so far forgot himself as to shake his
fist in the face of Kinau, a female, second in rank to the king ; and
Captain Belcher did the same to the Rev. Mr. Bingham, the head of
the American mission, whom he threatened to hang at the yardarm.
The only offence of the reverend gentleman was his having acted as
interpreter, and being supposed to exercise an influence over the
government. Although this threat was no more than idle bravado, it
produced much excitement.

A treaty was made with the French, and new articles were added
to the Russell treaty. Both commanders promised that the Catholic
missionaries should depart at the earliest opportunity, and should not
preach or attempt to propagate their religion. Under the French
treaty, however, it was afterwards claimed that the missionaries had
the right of teaching their tenets, although both the officers had thus
formally acknowledged that no such right could exist against the con-
sent and without the permission of the Hawaiian government.

Some months after these transactions, the provisor of the Bishop of
Nicopolis, with some assistants, arrived at Oahu, when permission to
land was refused him, and the vessel was not permitted to enter the
port, until the owner had given bond that the priests should not be
landed. These priests, together with those already under a stipulation
to embark as soon as they could procure a passage, purchased a
schooner, in which they sailed for the island of Ascension, in the
Caroline Group.

The king and chiefs now thought it necessary, for the purpose of
securing themselves against any future annoyance, to enact a law
making it penal for any one to teach or propagate the Romish faith.
Under this law some of the natives were fined and otherwise punished.
Every possible endeavour was made to throw the odium of this law
on the American mission, and it was asserted that its enactment had
been procured through their influence over the king and chiefs. The
falsehood of this charge became apparent when, eighteen months after-

14 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

wards, the repeal of so much of the law as authorized the infliction of
corporal punishment, was effected through the instrumentality of the
missionaries, and religious toleration was proclaimed. If any blame
is to be imputed to them, it is because they did not at an earlier period
take steps to obtain the withdrawal of an ordinance so much at variance
with the institutions of the country whence they came, where alone,
of nations professing Christianity, toleration is an unknown term,
because all sects stand upon an equal footing. It is possible that they
had warm and excited feelings to contend with ; but if they had it in
their power to obtain the repeal of the law, under which they must
have heard that much severity was practised, at an earlier period, there
can be no excuse for their delay. This supineness, whether apparent or
real, has naturally excited censure, both in Hawaii and in the United
States, and has served to give a shadow of probability to the numerous
falsehoods and misstatements that have been published in relation to
their conduct in other matters. Even the severity that was reported
to have been practised while the law continued in force, was far less
than is usually represented, and the reports in relation to it seem
generally to have been much exaggerated.

The arrival of Captain Laplace, in the French frigate Artemise,
brought about a crisis, for which it appears that no party was
prepared. It was generally supposed in Honolulu, that the mission
of this officer was the consequence of representations made by a
secret agent of the Romish missionaries, by the name of Murphy,
who is suspected of having informed the French government that a
persecution was still going on against French Catholics and citizens.
How far this could be true will appear from the fact that the number
of the subjects of France in these islands is four, including the consul,
but excluding his family, who are English ; how valuable the com-
merce which required a frigate to protect it, will be properly appre-
ciated, when it is stated, that only three French vessels had visited
the islands during the two years previous to the mission of Captain
Laplace, and that the value of their cargoes was no more than
820,000 or $30,000. Only one French vessel arrived in the year
which followed the transactions I am about to refer to.

That some gross misstatement had been made, is evident from the
tenor of Captain Laplace's manifesto,* in which he states that he had
been specially sent to put an end to the ill-treatment received by
French subjects, and to secure them the free right of their worship.

* This will be found in Appendix 1.

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 15

He ascribes the fancied evils of which he complains to the evil course
of the American missionaries, and charges the king with having been
misled by " perfidious counsellors."

How far this opinion was well founded, will appear by a letter ad-
dressed on this subject to the king, by the American consul, and his
reply. I deem it an act of justice to the American missionaries, that
these official documents should be made public, as the most authentic
testimony that can be procured on the subject, and which I am of
opinion must command full belief.*

So far as can be learned from Captain Laplace's manifesto, his in-
structions had reference only to the subject of religious toleration ; he
was to insure the future good treatment of French Catholics, and of
the natives converted by them. He demanded, in addition, as surety
for the future good conduct of the king and chiefs, the sum of $20,000,
for which it has been alleged he has not accounted ; and the French
consul contrived to turn the intervention of Captain Laplace to his
own personal advantage, as will presently be seen.

The promulgation of this manifesto, and the exorbitant demand
with which it was accompanied, produced great consternation at Ho-
nolulu, and throughout the island of Oahu. The foreign residents
were in alarm for their property, which was exposed on the one side
to the dangers of a bombardment, and on the other to the pilfering
of the natives ; the natives were dismayed at the demand of a sum
they were unable to pay ; while the missionaries, with their wives
and children, were the objects of a proscription, from which, the
American consul was informed, their national flag should not be a
protection, nor guard them from insult and injury.

Until the demands of the French captain should be complied with,
the port of Honolulu was declared by him in a state of blockade, and
no advices were allowed to be sent from it except with his knowledge.

The conduct of the foreign residents, at this juncture, was most
extraordinary. So far from aiding, by their advice and countenance,
the government under whose protection they had been living and
making fortunes, they organized a committee to look to their own
safety in the threatened crisis, formed a company of minute-men, not
to act against the invaders, but against the natives ; and actually
applied to Captain Laplace for the loan of arms and ammunition, to be
employed against those to whom they were in so many ways indebted.
They thus took part against the native government, which they de-
serted in its utmost need ; and it is with regret that I am compelled

* This correspondence will be found in Appendix II.

16 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

to state that the Americans as a body did not form an exception, but
that some of them left the native rulers to struggle as they best could
with a powerful enemy.

The missionaries who were proscribed, declined to involve the king
and chiefs in further difficulties by giving advice, which, coming
from them, would have been obnoxious to the French commander,
but silently awaited the suffering which they seemed called upon to
undergo.

The regent, Kekauluohi, and the governor, Kekuanaoa, succeeded
after some negotiation in obtaining a delay of the threatened hostili-
ties, until the king, who had been sent for, should arrive from Maui,
or until a sufficient time should be allowed for his so doing ; and
Haalilio was sent on board the frigate as a hostage, for the execution
of the treaty they were required to sign. The time which was thus
allowed to intervene, was spent on the side of the foreigners in creating
alarm, and holding up in dismal colours the prospect of the bloodshed
and rapine that were to fall on the devoted community, in case the
demands of the French captain were not complied with ; and on the
part of the chie'fs in forming an efficient police to suppress any intes-
tine commotion. Their conduct ought to have put to the blush those
whose property they thus prepared to guard, and I can conceive no-
thing more disgraceful than the conduct of the foreigners on this
occasion. Even the American consul fell in the first instance into an
error, in not asserting the right of his flag to protect all Americans,
and in not throwing back upon the French commander the unmanly
threat he had uttered against the missionaries and their families. He,
however, fully retrieved his error before the affair ended.

It would appear that the sum demanded by Captain Laplace had
been made so large by the advice of the French consul, who knew that
the resources of the native government would not enable them to raise
it, and who hoped that, in lieu of it, any commercial arrangements he
might choose to dictate would be granted, or that a good pretext would
exist for the occupation of the island by the French, either of which
might be turned to his (the consul's) pecuniary advantage. The same
reasons operated in a different manner upon the other foreign residents ;
for after their first alarm had somewhat subsided, they became aware
of the injury to which the latter alternative would have subjected them,
while from actual hostilities they would be the greatest sufferers ; and
thus, to the great disappointment of the French consul, they determined
to lend the demanded sum to the government. The king did not arrive
at the specified time ; but the regent and governor, being thus furnished
with funds, at a high rate of interest, signed the treaty.

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 17

Although the hopes of the French consul to see the island taken
possession of by his countrymen were frustrated, he took advantage
of the state of affairs to secure a personal advantage to himself, by
procuring a commercial treaty which should abrogate, in favour of the
French, the laws against the importation of spirituous liquors. Captain
Laplace lent himself to this design, and a commercial treaty was drawn
up, which, under the avowed intention of protecting French commerce,
provided for the free admission of brandy and wine, in which the consul
had hitherto been an illicit trader. This treaty was presented to the
king, who had by this time arrived, late in the afternoon, and he was
required to put his signature to it by the next morning, failing which, it
was intimated that hostile measures would be again resorted to. It is
not surprising that the king, on this occasion, found himself, as he
expressed it to me, completely at a loss what to do, when he found a
second treaty presented to him for his signature, which broke down
his laws and the municipal regulations of the island. These difficulties
were enhanced by finding that he was left entirely to himself, and with-
out the aid of any friendly advice ; for no time was allowed him, even
to call in the counsel of his own chiefs. The foreignef s, both residents
and missionaries, kept aloof from him, although now was a juncture at
which the true friends of this people might have acted to advantage by
stepping forward in support of the laws under which they lived. They
cannot be too much blamed for having suffered this flagrant outrage
upon the rights of a feeble nation to be committed with their knowledge,
and without strong and decided remonstrances on their part. The
missionaries, in particular, lost a glorious opportunity. It would have
shown their character in a beautiful light, if, after abstaining as they
did from any act that might have increased the embarrassment of the
government, when they were themselves threatened, they had come
forward to oppose, by every means in their power, the overthrow of
the laws enacted to check the scourge of intemperance, against which
they had so long contended.

The merchants, also, had not the spirit to raise a voice in condem-
nation of an act fraught with so much evil to the people from whom
they were gaining their livelihood. Although all were aware of what
was going forward, and some of them were appealed to, none would
take the responsibility of advising the king to withhold his signature
from a treaty that was to degrade him in his own eyes, and which
subverted the laws that had hitherto been so beneficial.

I make these comments on the conduct of the foreign residents and
missionaries, because I am satisfied that the smallest opposition would
now have checked the career of Captain Laplace ; and it would have

VOL. IV. B2 3

18 HAWAIIANGROUP.

required but little argument to prove to him the selfish views of the
French consul. Whatever he might have done had his first requisitions
not been complied with, I cannot believe, that to secure a commercial
treaty (which does not appear to have been part of his instructions),
however advantageous, he would have ventured to commence hosti-
lities, or that, if opposed on this point, he would have proceeded to
trample on the rights of the monarch of a weak and unoffending nation.

It was now that Captain Laplace insisted upon the recognition, in
the capacity of consul, of the irresponsible individual of whom we
have spoken under that style, but who had not hitherto been received
by the government.

The affair terminated by the landing of Captain Laplace, with two
hundred of his men, fully armed and equipped for battle, for the pur-
pose of celebrating mass in one of the straw-built houses of the king.

The frigate sailed the day after this ceremony ; and thus, in the
space of ten days, Captain Laplace had, by the terror of his cannon,
forced a dreaded religion upon a reluctant people, heaped ignominy on
the sovereign and chiefs, trodden down the laws, and left the islands
open to the introduction of immorality and vice, besides carrying off
in his frigate the whole of the circulating medium. This was truly an
heroic exploit, and one that must redound greatly to the credit of all
who were concerned in it !

The immediate consequences of the treaty, were it not for their
serious results, would be ludicrous. The brig Clementine, which has
before been mentioned, was immediately despatched by the French
consul to the coast of South America, whence she returned without de-
lay, having on board the Bishop of Nicopolis with several priests, and
a full cargo of French wines and brandy. It is needless to describe
the effect which the introduction of quantities of intoxicating liquor pro-
duced upon the population of the islands, the inferior classes of which
have still the propensity manifested by all savages for this worst pro-
duct of the arts of civilized nations. The chiefs have indeed endea-
voured to put some impediment in the way of the progress of the
scourge, by making it necessary to obtain a license for the retail of
spirituous liquors.

After this account, it will be easy to understand the feelings of mor-
tification and regret with which the king spoke of the Laplace treaty.
He said, that he was not surprised that France should have sent a
force to inquire whether his people had injured the natives of that
country who had visited them, but he did wonder that so great a
nation as France was represented to him to be, should have wished to
destroy his laws, and make his people drunkards for the sake of selling

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 19

a small quantity of brandy ; that, were not his honour concerned, he
would willingly sacrifice the twenty thousand dollars which Captain
Laplace held as security for the faithful performance of the treaty, if
by so doing he could prevent the demoralization of his people ; that
the commercial treaty had been forced upon him by Captain Laplace
and the French consul, who threatened to renew the war and destroy
Honolulu ; that they refused him time to consult with his chiefs or any
other person, and insisted on receiving his signature the next morning.
Having no one with whom to advise, his own impulse was to do any
thing that might serve to preserve peace and prevent injury to his
people and the foreigners under his protection.

He said further, that this was not the only instance in which his con-
sent had been extorted by threats, to measures of which he disapproved,
and that there had been instances when he had been called upon to
perform alleged promises which he had never given, for there were
some of the foreigners who misrepresented every thing that took place
in their interviews with him.

I at once pointed out a simple remedy for this, namely, that he
should hereafter transact all business in writing, and have no verbal
communication with people of this stamp or indeed with any one ;
telling him that by keeping their letters, and copies of his own, he
would always be in possession of evidence of what had passed. I
assured him that I considered his government to have made sufficient
progress towards a position among civilized nations to authorize him
to require that official business should be carried on in this manner,
and expressed my belief, that should he adopt this method, the
" bullies" of whom he had spoken would give him no further trouble.

I now found that his principal object in requesting an interview with
me was, that he might renew and amplify his treaty with the United
States, for which purpose he thought it probable that I might have had
instructions. When he found that this was not the case, and that I had
no official communication for him, he was evidently disappointed ; for
he appeared most desirous to enter into a close friendship with the
United States, and spoke in the highest terms of the kind manner in
which he had ever been treated by our consul Mr. Brinsmade and the
commanders of the United States vessels of war that had visited his
islands. In conclusion, he intimated his hopes that the United States
would acknowledge his people as a nation, and enter into a new treaty
with him as its ruler.

All this was well and intelligently expressed by him, but the main
subject of the conversation, which lasted for three hours, was his re-
gret that he had ever permitted foreigners to interfere with his laws

20 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

and municipal regulations, and had not rather allowed them to do their
worst. The only justification he could offer to himself for his submis-
sion was, that by yielding he had saved much trouble and distress to
others.

To return to the Laplace treaty. A commission has been sent to
France with letters to its government, containing a statement of the
transactions of which we have spoken, and asking that the commer-
cial treaty might be annulled as injurious to the morals of his people,
and the king expressed his hopes that this appeal to the magnanimity
and moral sense of the French monarch would be successful.

With the Catholics, to whom this treaty has given free entrance, I
had no direct intercourse. I saw however that they were zealous in
their exertions to inculcate their peculiar tenets ; they have already
several places of worship, and were busy in erecting a large chapel
of stone. All the chiefs, however, and the great body of the people, are
still Protestants. The existence of two different creeds has caused
some difficulties. One relating to the school system took place during
the stay of our squadron ; and another relative to marriages between
native converts of different persuasions.

I cannot but indulge the hope, that the competition of the teachers
of different creeds, if they be actuated by proper motives, will, by
stimulating their efforts, tend to the improvement of education and
the advancement of civilization. The Protestant missionaries have
already done so much good, that it is much more a matter of wonder
that there should be so many signs of piety, and so many instances of
strict obedience to the moral law, than that vice and sensuality are still
to be seen in existence in this community, so recently redeemed from
barbarism.

Among the most obvious benefits of the missionary labours, are a
code of laws and a written constitution ; the last of which was pro
mulgated on the 8th October, 1840. It is, no doubt, far from being
perfect, but it is as much so as circumstances would permit, and is a
proof of the sincerity of the interest the king and chiefs take in the
welfare of those whom they govern ; for in it they have made a willing
sacrifice of their power to what they deem the general benefit of the
nation.

I was furnished with a copy of this constitution by Mr. Richards,
and I insert it, as perhaps the best mode of contrasting the present
state of the Hawaiian people with that of the inhabitants of the other
Polynesian islands, and of exhibiting the advance which they have
made towards complete civilization.

HAWAIIANGROUP. 21

CONSTITUTION, LAWS, ETC.

DECLARATION OF RIGHTS, BOTH OF THE PEOPLE AND CHIEFS.

" God hath made of one blood all nations of men, to dwell on the
earth" in unity and blessedness. God has also bestowed certain rights
alike on all men, and all chiefs, and all people of all lands.

These are some of the rights which he has given alike to every man
and every chief of correct deportment : life, limb, liberty, freedom from
oppression, the earnings of his hands and the productions of his mind ;
not, however, to those who act in violation of the laws.

God has also established governments, and rule, for the purpose of
peace ; but, in making laws for the nation, it is by no means proper to
enact laws for the protection of the rulers only, without also providing
protection for their subjects ; neither is it proper to enact laws to enrich
the chiefs only, without regard to enriching their subjects also ; and
hereafter there shall, by no means, be any laws enacted which are at
variance with what is above expressed, neither shall any tax be assessed,
nor any service or labour required of any man, in a manner which is
at all at variance with the above sentiments.

PROTECTION FOR THE PEOPLE DECLARED.

The above sentiments are hereby published for the purpose of pro-
tecting alike both the people and the chiefs of all these islands, while
they maintain a correct deportment ; that no chief may be able to
oppress any subject, but that chiefs and people may enjoy the same
protection, under one and the same law.

Protection is hereby secured to the persons of all the people,
together with their lands, their building-lots, and all their property,
while they conform to the laws of the kingdom ; and nothing what-
ever shall be taken from any individual except by express provision
of the laws. Whatever chief shall act perseveringly in violation of
the constitution, shall no longer remain a chief of the Hawaiian
Islands, and the same shall be true of the governors, officers, and all
land agents.

But if any one who is deposed should change his course and regu-
late his conduct by law, it shall then be in the power of the chiefs to
reinstate him in the place he occupied previous to his being deposed.

22 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

CONSTITUTION.

It is our design to regulate our kingdom according to the above
principles, and thus seek the greatest prosperity both of all the chiefs
and all the people of these Hawaiian Islands. But we are aware that
we cannot ourselves alone accomplish such an object. God must be
our aid, for it is his province alone to give perfect protection and pro-
perty. Wherefore we first present our supplication to him that he will
guide us to right measures and sustain us in our work.

It is, therefore, our fixed decree : —

1. That no law shall be enacted which is at variance with the word
of the Lord Jehovah, or at variance with the general spirit of his word.
All laws of the island shall be in consistency with the general spirit of
God's law.

2. All men in every religion shall be protected in worshipping
Jehovah, and serving him according to their own understanding, but
no man shall ever be punished for neglect of God, unless he injures his
neighbour, or bring evil on the kingdom.

3. The law shall give redress to every man who is injured by
another, without a fault of his own, and shall protect all men while
they conduct properly, and shall punish all men who commit crime
against the kingdom or against individuals; and no unequal law shall
be passed for the benefit of one to the injury of another.

4. No man shall be punished, unless his crime be first made mani-
fest, neither shall he be punished unless he be first brought to trial in
the presence of his accusers, and they have met face to face, and the
trial having been conducted according to law, and the crime made
manifest in their presence, then punishment may be inflicted.

5. No man or chief shall be permitted to sit as judge or act on a
jury to try his particular friend or enemy, or one who is especially
connected with him. Wherefore, if any man be condemned or ac-
quitted, and it shall afterwards be made to appear that some one who
tried him acted with partiality, for the purpose of favouring his friend
or injuring his enemy, or for the purpose of enriching himself, then
there shall be a new trial allowed before those who are impartial.

EXPOSITION OF THE PRINCIPLES ON WHICH THE PRESENT DYNASTY IS FOUNDED.

The origin of the present government and system of polity is as
follows: Kamehameha I. was the founder of the kingdom, and to him
belonged all the land from one end of the islands to the other, though
it was not his own private property. It belonged to the chiefs and

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 23

people in common, of whom Kamehameha I. was the head, and had
the management of the landed property. Wherefore there was not
formerly and is not now any person who could or can convey away
the smallest portion of land without the consent of the one who had or
has the direction of the kingdom.

These are the persons who have had the direction of it from that
time down : Kamehameha II., Kaahumanu I., and at the present time
Kamehameha III. These persons have had the direction of the king-
dom dowrn to the present time, and all documents written by them, and
no others, are the documents of the kingdom.

The kingdom is permanently confirmed to Kamehameha III. and
his heirs, and his heir shall be the person whom he and the chiefs
shall appoint during his lifetime ; but should there be no appointment,
then the decision shall rest with the chiefs and House of Represent-
atives.

PREROGATIVES OF THE KING.

The prerogatives of the king are as follows. He is the sovereign of
all the people and all the chiefs. The kingdom is his. He shall
have the direction of the army and all the implements of war of the
kingdom. He also shall have the direction of the government property,
the poll-tax, the land-tax, the three days' monthly labour ; thongh in
conformity to the laws. He also shall retain his own private lands,
and lands forfeited for the non-payment of taxes shall revert to him.
He shall be the chief judge of the supreme court, and it shall be his
duty to execute the laws of the land, also all decrees and treaties with
other countries ; all, however, in accordance with the laws.

It shall also be his prerogative to form treaties with the rulers of all
other kingdoms, also to receive all ministers sent by other countries,
and he shall have power to confirm agreements with them.

He shall also have power to make war in time of emergency when
the chiefs cannot be assembled, and he shall be the co-mmander-in-
chief. He shall also have power to transact all important business of
the kingdom, which is not by law assigned to others.

RESPECTING THE PREMIER OF THE KINGDOM.

It shall be the duty of the king to appoint some chief of rank and
ability to be his particular minister, whose title shall be Premier of
the Kingdom. His office and business shall be the same as that of
Kaahumanu I. and Kaahumanu II. For even in the time of Kame-

24 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

hameha I., life and death, condemnation and acquittal, were in the
hands of Kaahumanu. When Kamehameha I. died, his will was,
" The kingdom is Liho-liho's, and Kaahumanu is his minister."

That important feature of the government, originated by Kameha-
meha I., shall be perpetuated in these Hawaiian Islands, but shall
always be in subserviency to the law.

The following are the duties of the premier:

All business connected with the special interests of the kingdom,
which the king wishes to transact, shall be done by the premier under
the authority of the king. All documents and business of the kingdom,
executed by the premier, shall be considered as executed by the king's
authority. All government property shall be reported to him (or her),
and he (or she) shall make it over to the king.

The premier shall be the king's special counsellor in the great busi-
ness of the kingdom.

The king shall not act without the knowledge of the premier, nor
shall the premier act without the knowledge of the king, and the veto
of the king on the acts of the premier shall arrest the business. All
important business of the kingdom which the king chooses to transact
in person, he may do it, but not without the approbation of the
premier.

GOVERNORS.

There shall be four governors over these Hawaiian Islands — one
for Hawaii, one for Maui and the islands adjacent, one for Oahu, and
one for Kauai and the adjacent islands. All the governors, from
Hawaii to Kauai, shall be subject to the king.

The prerogatives of the governors and their duties, shall be as fol-
lows. Each governor shall have the general direction of the several
tax-gatherers of his island, and shall support them in the execution of
all their orders which he considers to have been properly given, but
shall pursue a course according to law, and not according to his own
private views. He also shall preside over all the judges of his island,
and shall see their sentences executed as above. He shall also appoint
the judges and give them their certificates of office.

All the governors, from Hawaii to Kauai, shall be subject not only
to the king but also to the premier.

The governor shall be superior over his particular island or islands,
He shall have charge of the munitions of war, under the direction of
the king however, and the premier. He shall have charge of the forts,
the soldiery, the arms, and all the implements of war. He shall receive

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 25

the government dues, and shall deliver over the same to the premier.
All important decisions rest with him in times of emergency, unless
the king or premier be present. He shall have charge of all the king's
business on the island, the taxation, new improvements to be extended,
and plans for the increase of wealth ; and all officers shall be subject
to him. He shall also have power to decide all questions, and transact
all island business which is not by law assigned to others.

When either of the governors shall decease, then all the chiefs shall
assemble at such place as the king shall appoint, and shall nominate a
successor of the deceased governor ; and whosoever they shall nomi-
nate and be approved by the king, he shall be the new governor.

RESPECTING THE SUBORDINATE CHIEFS.

At the present period, these are the persons who shall sit in the
government councils: Kamehameha III., Kekauluohi, Hoapiliwahine,
Kuakini, Kekauonohi, Kahekili, Paki, Konai, Koahokalola, Leleiohoku,
Kekuanaoa, Kealiiahonui, Kanaina, Keoni li, Keoni Ana, and Haalilio.
Should any person be received into the council, it shall be made known
by law. These persons shall have part in the councils of the kingdom.
No law of the nation shall be passed without their assent. They shall
act in the following manner: they shall assemble annually, for the
purpose of seeking the welfare of the nation, and establishing the laws
of the kingdom. Their meetings shall commence in April, at such
day and place as the king shall appoint.

It shall be proper for the king to consult with the above persons
respecting all the great concerns of the kingdom, in order to promote
unanimity and secure the greatest good. They shall moreover trans-
act such other business as the king shall commit to them.

They shall still retain their own appropriate lands, whether districts
or plantations, in whatever divisions they may be, and they may con-
duct the business on said lands at their discretion, but not at variance
with the laws of the kingdom.

RESPECTING THE REPRESENTATIVE BODY.

There shall be annually chosen certain persons to sit in council with
the chiefs and establish laws for the nation. They shall be chosen by
the people, according to their wish, from Hawaii, Maui, Oahu, and
Kauai. The law shall decide the form of choosing them, and also the
number to be chosen. This representative body shall have a voice in

VOL. iv. c 4

26 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

the business of the kingdom. No law shall be passed without the ap-
probation of a majority of them.

RESPECTING THE MEETINGS OF THE LEGISLATIVE BODY.

There shall be an annual meeting as stated above ; but if the chiefs
think it desirable to meet again, they may do it at their discretion.
When they assemble, the nobles shall meet by themselves, and the
representative body by themselves, though at such times as they shall
think it necessary to consult together, they may unite at their discre-
tion.

The form of doing business shall be as follows : the nobles shall ap-
point a secretary for themselves, who at the meetings shall record all
decisions made by them ; and that book of records shall be preserved,
in order that no decrees affecting the interests of the kingdom shall be
lost.

The same shall be done by the representative body. They too shall
choose a secretary for themselves ; and when they meet for the pur-
pose of seeking the interests of the kingdom, and shall come to a deci-
sion on any point, then that decision shall be recorded in a book, and
the book shall be preserved, in order that nothing valuable affecting
the interests of the kingdom, shall be lost ; and there shall be no new
law made without the approbation of a majority of the chiefs, and also
a majority of the representative body.

When any act has been agreed upon by them, it shall then be pre-
sented to the king, and if he approve and sign his name, and also the
premier, then it shall become a law of the kingdom ; and that law
shall not be repealed until it is done by the voice of those who esta-
blished it.

RESPECTING THE TAX OFFICERS.

The king and premier shall appoint tax officers and give them their
certificates of office. There shall be district tax officers for each of the
islands, at the discretion of the king and premier.

When a tax officer has received his certificate of appointment, he
shall not be dismissed from office without first having a formal trial,
and having been convicted of fault, at which time he shall be dis-
missed. Though if the law should prescribe a given number of yenrs
as the term of office it may be done.

The following are the established duties of the tax officers. Thej

1

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 27

shall assess the taxes, and give notice of the amount to all the people,
that they may understand in suitable time. The tax officers shall make
the assessments in subserviency to the orders of the governors, and in
accordance with the requirements of the law. And when the taxes are
to be gathered, they shall gather them, and deliver the property to the
governor, and the governor shall pay it over to the premier, and the
premier shall deliver it to the king.

The tax officers shall also have charge of the public labour done
for the king^, though if they see proper to commit it to the land
agents, it is well; but the tax officers being above the land agents,
shall be accountable for the work. They shall also have charge of
all new business which the king shall wish to extend through the
kingdom. In all business, however, they shall be subject to the go-
vernor.

The tax officers shall be the judges in all cases arising under the
tax law. In all cases where land agents or landlords are charged
with oppressing the lower classes, and also in all cases of difficulty
between land agents and tenants, the tax officers shall be the judges,
and also all cases arising under the tax law enacted on the 7th of
June, 1839.

They shall, moreover, perform their duties in the following manner.
Each tax officer shall be confined in his authority to his own appro-
priate district. If a difficulty arises between a land agent and his
tenant, the tax officer shall try the case, and if the tenant be found
guilty, then the tax officer, in connexion with the land agent, shall exe-
cute the law upon him. But if the tax officer judge the land agent to
be in fault, then he shall notify all the tax officers of his particular
island, and if they are agreed, they shall pass sentence on him,
and the governor shall execute it. But in all trials, if any individual
take exception to the decision of the tax officer, .he may appeal to
the governor, who shall have the power to try the case again, and if
exceptions are taken to the decision of the governor, on information
given to the supreme judges, there shall be a new and final trial before
them.

OP THE JUDGES.

Each of the governors shall, at his discretion, appoint judges for his
particular island, two or more, as he shall think expedient, and shall
give them certificates of office. After having received their certificates,
they shall not be turned out except by impeachment, though it shall be
proper at any time for the law to limit the term of office.

They shall act in the following manner. They shall give notice

28 HAWAIIANGROUP.

beforehand of the days on which courts are to be held. When the
time specified arrives, they shall be the judges in cases arising under
the laws, excepting those which regard taxation, or difficulties between
land agents, or landlords and their tenants. They shall be sustained by
the governor, whose duty it shall be to execute the law according to
their decisions. But if exceptions are taken to their judgment, who-
soever takes them, may appeal to the supreme judges.

OF THE SUPREME JUDGES.

t

The representative body shall appoint four persons whose duty it
shall be to aid the king and premier, and six persons shall constitute
the supreme court of the kingdom.

Their business shall be to settle all cases of difficulty which are left
unsettled by the tax officers and common judges. They shall give a
new trial according to the conditions of the law. They shall give
previous notice of the time for holding courts, in order that those who
are in difficulty may appeal. The decision of these shall be final.
There shall be no further trial afterwards. Life, death, confinement,
fine, and freedom from it, are all in their hands, and their decisions are
final.

OF CHANGES IN THIS CONSTITUTION.

This constitution shall not be considered as finally established until
the people have generally heard it, and have appointed persons accord-
ing to the provisions herein made, and they have given their assent ;
then this constitution shall be considered as permanently established.

But hereafter, if it should be thought desirable to change it, notice
shall be previously given, that all the people may understand the nature
of the proposed change, and at the succeeding meeting of the chiefs
and the representative body, if they shall agree as to the addition pro-
posed, or as to the alteration, then they may make it.

The above constitution has been agreed to by the chiefs, and we
have hereunto subscribed our names, this eighth day of October, in the
year of our Lord eighteen hundred and forty, at Honolulu, Oahu.

(Signed) KAMEHAMEHA III.
KEKAULUOHI.

The code of laws is now administered with firmness and a prompti-
tude that gives them great effect, and of this we had an instance while
we remained at Honolulu.

A night or two after our arrival, I was awakened by one of the
most startling and mournful sounds I ever heard, which lasted all

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 29

night, and disturbed the whole town of Honolulu. It brought back to
my mind the idea that I was still among savages, which the impressions
I had received within the last few days had in a measure dissipated.
This sound proved to be the wailing over Kamakinki, the wife of a
chief of high rank. Strong suspicions being entertained of her having
been poisoned by drinking ava, which her husband, Kamanawa, had
prepared for her, he was apprehended, together with an accomplice,
whose name was Sono. Three days after their arrest, they were put
under trial before Kekuanaoa, the governor, as presiding judge, and a
jury of twelve Hawaiians. On being brought to the stand they were
examined against themselves, and confessed on interrogation ; for the
Hawaiian law permits this, and such confessions are esteemed as good
testimony. They were found guilty by the jury, and Sono confessed
on the trial that he had committed one other murder.

The facts in relation to the murder of the chief's wife were as
follows.

The husband and wife had been for some time separated, because
the chief wished to marry another woman, for whom he had formed a
strong attachment. Having already one wife, this was forbidden by
the law, and he in consequence determined to rid himself of her. For
this purpose he applied to Sono, who was said to be well acquainted
with poisons. He found Sono in the same position as himself, and they
both agreed to destroy their wives. Accordingly, a seeming recon-
ciliation was brought about, and they met at the house of a son-in-law
of Kamakinki to celebrate it by drinking ava. Two bowls of the liquor
were prepared, the one unadulterated, the other mixed with poison
composed of Tephrosia piscatoria, Daphne indica, and the leaves of a
common gourd (Lagenaria). From the first of these the company
drank, but when Kamakinki called for her share, which was handed
to her by Kamanawa her husband, she, after taking a few mouthfuls,
complained of its bitterness. On asking if the other cups had tasted
so, and being answered in the negative, she at once accused her
husband of having poisoned her.

The proof would have been ample without the confession of the
guilty parties, for a post-mortem examination had taken place, which
proved conclusively that the death had been the result of poison.
The parties, however, both made a full and corresponding confession.
It was stated by Kamanawa, the husband, that Sono, on receiving his
application, at once said that he had a drug that would destroy life.
On his expressing some doubts, Sono told him that he had already
proved it in three cases. When Kamanawa drugged the ava, he had
doubts whether it would prove effective, but was glad to find it so.

C2

30 HAWAIIANGROUP.

The prisoners were allowed counsel, and the whole proceedings
were conducted in a becoming manner. The charge of the judge to
the jury was clear and forcible. The king and several high chiefs
were present, and as Kamanawa was a great favourite of the king,
it was supposed by many that a pardon would be extended to him,
this being the first case in which the sentence of the law had been
passed on one of so high a rank. But there was no pardon, and tha
criminals were hung on the 20th of October, on the walls of the fort,
the king having gone some days previously to Lahaina. The con-
course of people at the execution was very large, and the prisoners
were attended by the missionaries. There was none of that eager
curiosity, rushing, and crowding, that is to be observed at home on an
occasion of the kind, and no noise or confusion. All present were
decently dressed and well behaved, but they did not seem impressed
with the solemnity of the scene. It was estimated that ten thousand
persons, from all parts of the island, were present. I was in hopes
that the law would have been put into execution within the fort, and
not on the walls, thus making it a private instead of a public execu-
tion. I had much conversation relative to this subject with the autho-
rities, but I thought the disposition was to make it a matter of parade
rather than otherwise. The criminals showed no manner of contrition
for their foul crimes, but evinced a hardihood in unison with the deed
for which they suffered the penalty of the law.

There are no persons to whom the old adage of " murder will out"
will more justly apply, than to these natives ; they cannot keep a
secret, and when once a crime is perpetrated, it is not long before it
becomes known to the public ; they will even tell against themselves,
however certain the punishment may be. In this respect, nearly all
the Polynesian nations are alike. It was perhaps not to be expected
that much feeling should be shown on an occasion of the kind among
a half-civilized nation, who had formerly been in the habit of seeing
death frequently administered by the hands of the assassin, acting by
the order of the chiefs ; yet I was not prepared to see so quiet and
indifferent a demeanour. The son of Kamanawa, who is an extremely
fat youth, and one of the best swimmers and divers in the port, spoke
of the execution of his father without any apparent feeling.

The immense advance which has been made by the Hawaiians in
civilisation, will be best appreciated by the contrast which the fore-
going constitution exhibits to the ancient usages and mode of govern-
ment of this group. As, however, many points in the early history of
these islands have been fully illustrated by other writers, I shall con-
tent myself with a general view of such facts as may serve for the basis

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 31

of a comparison between the past and present condition of the Hawaii-
ans, and between their usages and customs and those of the other
groups of Polynesia. On these points I have endeavoured to obtain
the most correct information, and have been fortunate in receiving it
from the highest and most authentic sources.

In former times there were no fixed laws of succession to the throne,
and the practice in relation to it varied. It was, however, the general
usage that the crown should descend, on the death of a sovereign, to
one of his children, sons being preferred to daughters, and the rank of
the mother being taken into consideration, as well as priority of birth.
Thus Kamehameha I. had children by several wives, but his eldest
son, as well as a daughter, were superseded by the children of another
wife of more elevated birth. Even if a sovereign had sons by females
of low origin, a daughter might succeed, if her mother were of very
elevated rank.

A case of this sort had occurred two generations prior to the disco-
very of the island, when the throne was held by Queen Keokeolaui,
who had several half-brothers, but they were of lower rank on the
mother's side. There have been only two instances of the accession
of females to the supreme power, Keokeolaui, and Laca, of still greater
antiquity.

Exceptions sometimes were made to the regular descent, by the con-
ceded right of the sovereign to name his successor ; and, in conse-
quence, it has sometimes been willed to a younger instead of the elder
son, of the same mother, and sometimes to a member of another fa-
mily. Where special reasons existed for such a course, it was gene-
rally concurred in by the chiefs. But these rules were often set aside,
and personal valour decided the point. Kamehameha I. was an in-
stance of this kind.

A chief of inferior rank stood little chance of attaining the royal
dignity, however highly he might be endowed ; but even the lawful
heir, if a weak and pusillanimous man, was sure to be supplanted by a
chief better qualified. Thus, in consequence of their being many dif-
ferent aspirants for the high office, the death of a king was always the
signal for a civil war.

During the life of a king he generally signified his wish in relation
to the descent of the crown, and often a council of chiefs was called
upon the subject. If they all concurred, it put a stop to any diffi-
culties, and the party nominated succeeded to the kingdom without
disturbance.

If the king married a low woman, the right of her children to the
crown was always disputed. Hence it was considered of great im-

82 HAWAIIAN GROUP. t

portance that the wife of the king should be of as high blood, if not
higher, than any other female in the nation. For this reason, if there
were several women of the same rank, the king felt it important to
secure them all as his wives, in order that there might be no com-
petition, on the ground of rank, for the kingdom after his death. On
this account Kamehameha had five wives at the same time. In order
to prevent the existence of competitors, it was often thought expedient
for the kings to marry their own sisters, although this incestuous inter-
course is, in other cases, contrary to the customs, habits, and feelings
of the people. The offspring of such a union was deemed of the
highest possible rank.

It is said the present king was desirous of marrying his own sister,
Nahienaena, but that this was prevented by the missionaries.

The public feeling was so strong against the king's having heirs by
a woman of inferior rank, that it often caused the children to be put to
death in infancy by the high chiefs, in order to avoid any of them
laying claim to the throne, or to a higher rank than they were willing
to allow them.

Illegitimate children of the king were almost sure to be put to death
in infancy, and sometimes by order of the father.

The rank of a woman was not materially altered by her marriage to
the king. She acquired no authority in the government, and no special
rights or privileges, but usually received a present of lands from the
king, to be held during his lifetime. On his death, her right to them
ceased, although they might, through courtesy, be left in her possession.
It will easily be understood, that when a chief has a wife of the highest
rank and purest blood, he is naturally an object of jealousy and distrust
to the reigning house.

Under the new constitution the descent is regulated, as has been
seen, but great latitude of choice is allowed. The king's heir shall
be the person whom the king and chiefs may appoint during his life-
time. If there should be no appointment, then the chiefs and House of
Representatives shall exercise it ; and I found it the prevailing opinion
that their former customs would have much weight in their decision.

The next heir to the throne has already been chosen, in the person
of Prince Alexander, the third son of Kinau, and grandson to Kameha-
meha I. In this choice his two elder brothers, who are quite as intelli-
gent, have been passed over. The king is married to the daughter of
a petty chief. It was a match of affection, and they have no children ;
but should he have an heir, it is thought that, notwithstanding their
former customs, the low rank of his wife, and the choice already made,
her child would inherit.

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 33

The government, so far as one was established in past times, was
mainly of a feudal character, and vested in the various ranks of land-
lords, the king being considered as the head. The power of each par-
ticular chief was, in most cases, supreme over his own immediate vas-
sals or tenants, and this power was not entirely confined to his own
dependants. The chiefs having a common interest in preserving their
power, showed great politeness and respect towards each other, so
much so that they felt themselves at liberty to call upon the dependants
of another without the fear of giving offence : this operated to the dis-
advantage of the people, for instead of serving but one master they
were subject to several.

As a general rule, however, the authority descended in the scale of
rank, rising from the lowest class of servants to tenants, agents, land-
holders, land-owners, petty chiefs, high chiefs, and the king, each one
ruling according to his own understanding, or that of his superiors.
Of course, civil rights could not be expected under such a state of
things, nor were any acknowledged to exist. Some general rules
seem to have had place, and when they were infringed, the offender
was punished, particularly if the crime was of an aggravated nature.

Murder was punished by death ; and in the time of Kamehameha I.
repeated instances of this crime and its punishment occurred.

Grand larceny was also a capital offence, provided the injured
person had power to execute the law ; the king and chiefs not unfre-
quently espoused the cause of the injured party, and inflicted the
punishment.

Adultery was likewise often punished by death, and, in a cele-
brated case, Kamehameha called upon his highest chiefs to act as
executioners.

The taboo, or sacred law, restrained and regulated, in a considerable
degree, the will of those in authority, although it was in other respects
very oppressive to the people. A chief, who was a notorious violator
of taboo, soon became unpopular, and was eventually supplanted by
some other who stood in higher estimation.

As far as there was any system in their government, it was deeply
interwoven with their religious taboos, and partook of law, custom,
and will. The taboos that were fixed may be considered as embraced
in the first ; the second was founded on their superstitions ; and the
last on the power the chiefs had to enforce them. Thus, no kings
have been thought to have governed exclusively by will and taboos ;
custom and the fear of other chiefs had placed many restraints on
them. Among these was the influence of a certain class of men
whose business it was to give instruction, and rehearse the proverbs

VOL. iv. 5

34 HAWAIIAN GROUP. f

handed down from their ancestors. These men often prophesied that
judgment would follow if these were neglected ; but, notwithstanding,
as may readily be supposed, bad rulers contrived to evade the taboos
and rules, and the people had no means of redressing their grievances
but by rebellion, and placing other chiefs in their stead.

There were means used to publish the laws. Kamehameha was very
particular in this respect; and there appears to have been no complaint
that he had ever violated them himself.

From the earliest periods of Hawaiian history, the tenure of lands
has been, in most respects, feudal. The origin of the fiefs was the same
as in the northern nations of Europe. Any chieftain who could collect
a sufficient number of followers to conquer a district, or an island, and
had succeeded in his object, proceeded to divide the spoils, or " cut up
the land," as the natives termed it.

The king, or principal chief, made his choice from the best of the
lands. Afterwards the remaining part of the conquered territory was
distributed among the leaders, and these again subdivided their shares
to others, who became vassals, owing fealty to the sovereigns of the fee.

The king placed some of his own particular servants on his portion
as his agents, to superintend the cultivation. The original occupants
who were on the land, usually remained under their new conqueror,
and by them the lands were cultivated, and rent or taxes paid.

This division was often a work of great difficulty. In spite of any
wisdom and skill that could be exercised, it was no easy matter to
satisfy every one that the division had been fairly and equally made,
and before the business was finished, difficulties often arose, which
ended in some cases in rebellion, and in others in open war. When
every thing could be settled amicably, the whole body of retainers
became bound up with the interest of the king, having every induce-
ment to support him, for their property became safe or uncertain in
proportion as his authority was upheld. These landholders were the
persons on whom the king could call and rely on to support him in his
difficulties, aid him in his plans, or fight his battles.

The manner in which these divisions took place, shows more
system than appears to have been practised in any other group in
Polynesia.

An Island was divided . . into Mokns.

Mokus .... " Thalanas, or counties.

Thalanas .... " Ahupnaas, or townships.

Ahupnaas .... " His, or plantations.

His " Moos, or small farms.

One of the latter divisions was frequently the property of a single

, HAWAIIAN GROUP. 35

person, and instances occurred where all the moos which composed an
Ui, were possessed by one individual.

Every feudatory was bound to his particular land-owner, after the
same manner as the chief or land-owner was bound to the king ; and
thus a feudal connexion was established between the king and his
lowest subject, by which tie the society or clan was held together.

The king and chiefs having power even to depriving a chief not only
of his rank, but also of his possessions, had complete control over the
whole, and had them firmly bound to their purposes.

This wras the only system of government known to the Hawaiians,
and even the older chiefs cannot be persuaded that authority or govern-
ment can be successfully maintained by any other means. Their argu-
ment is, " If they cannot take the people's lands away from them, what
will they care for their authority ?"

But, what appears extraordinary, this bond was more often severed
by the superiors than by their vassals, notwithstanding the landlord had
not only a right to require military service, to tax his particular tenants
at pleasure, and demand other things, among which might be daily
labour in any or every kind of employment, so that a labourer seldom
received on an average more than one-third of the value of his work,
while the different chiefs pocketed the rest. But this was not all ; even
this portion of one-third was not secure, for they had no line of demar-
cation by which the tenant could separate the profits of his labour from
the property of his chief; and if he by any chance was industrious, and
brought his farm into a good state of cultivation, he was at once
marked out as a subject for taxation. No tenant, in short, could call
any thing he had his own. Favouritism, jealousy, and fickleness of
character were so general, that no landholder could consider himself
sure of the fruits of his own exertions, and therefore would make no
improvements, and even ridiculed the idea of attempting them.

These exactions came so heavily at times from particular chiefs,
that the landholders found it necessary, in order to avoid starvation, to
hold lands at the same time under different chiefs, so that their chance
might be greater of retaining a portion, and that the necessities of one
of them could not entirely sweep away the whole.

All that restrained a chief in demanding taxes or from dispossessing
his tenants was a certain sense of propriety, which forbade the ejection
of the actual cultivator of the land, notwithstanding the changes which
might take place above him, so that those possessing the moos were
seldom disturbed. Self-interest must have pointed out this course to
the chiefs, and it not only prevented distress throughout the different
islands, but mitigated the evils of the frequent changes that were

36 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

occurring from one cause or another. The dispossessing a tenant of
his lands, also took away nearly all the personal property which might
have been acquired from them, either directly or indirectly.

The greatest confusion and changes took place at the deaths of the
chiefs or landholders, the right of the fief descending to heirs, who, as
a matter of course, had followers of their own, and almost invariably
dispossessed the old agents and put their own favourites in their places.

On the death of a king, these changes of course affected the whole
kingdom ; and on the demise of a chief, whatever territory had been
subject to his sway. Under the present government the feudal tenure
still exists, but it is greatly modified.

The new laws define the rights of the different classes, and prescribe
the rules by which each class shall be governed.

Officers are also appointed to see that the regulations are observed,
and to assess damages according to law when the rights of one class
are invaded by those of another.

No tax can be now laid, neither can any property be seized, not
even by the king, except by express provision of the law, and no land-
lord dispossesses his tenants of their fief. The right of tenure is declared
perpetual, except being subject to forfeiture for non-payment of rent.
The right to fix the amount of rent is regulated by law, and the people
have a voice in the legislature, so that no new tax can be laid without
the assent of their representatives.

These are great modifications, which one would suppose must have
been found immediately effective; but the evils intended to be remedied
are but partially removed, owing to the fact that the officers who are
employed are ignorant, and fear to thwart the interests of the chiefs
and others. These evils, as the natives improve and become more
familiar with their laws and rights, must entirely vanish. Even if the
abuses should continue, they can be of no great extent, for the number
of the superior lords of the soil is reduced to two, of whom one is the
king.

The taxation under the old kings was sufficiently regular ; it was
annually assessed by the king's agents appointed for that purpose, and
fluctuated but little. It did not extend below the ilis or plantations,
which were taxed as follows :

One hog,
" dog,
" fish-net.
" fishing-line,
" cluster of feathers.

Twenty tapas, a part square, and a part long and narrow: the

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 37

square tapas were those used for their sleeping and screens, the long
and narrow ones for female dresses.

The size of the hog, dog, &c., varied according to the size of the
ili. The taxes were paid into the hands of the immediate superior, and
so on until they reached the king, before whom they were exhibited in
a large heap. In this mode of transmission, opportunities for holding
back a large amount were afforded.

Besides this tax for the maintenance of the king, there were customs
and rules which made it necessary to make presents to the king, espe-
cially when he was travelling, at which times himself and retinue were
to be supported by presents from the people. This might be con-
sidered a forced tax, for, if sufficient supplies were not furnished, the
inhabitants suffered every kind of extortion from the king's attendants ;
and one may have some idea of the extent of these requisitions, when
informed that the king's party sometimes consisted of upwards of a
thousand persons. Another direct tax was imposed on the work of
the people, the king having a right to call out all classes of the com-
munity to perform any kind of labour he might desire ; nor was there
any limit as to the amount of time, or any rules for fixing it.

The manner in which the notice of a call for labour was made, was
for the king to give his orders to a chief of rank, who issued his direc-
tions to other chiefs, and so on until it reached the lowest tenant. If
the work was of any magnitude, such as building temples, or labour in
honour of the dead, then the king issued his order to all the chiefs of
rank, and it thence extended to the people. In such cases the highest
persons in the nation, both male and female, were to be seen carrying
stones on their shoulders, and engaged in other kinds of labour.

After they had intercourse with foreigners, the mode of taxation
became changed, and its amount was somewhat increased.

In the case of furnishing sandalwood, the burden became at last
quite irksome and severe. It is calculated that the traffic in this
article lasted about thirty years, and yielded in that time upwards of
one million of dollars. It is considered fortunate that the supply has
become exhausted, as the collection of this wood was the most onerous
of all the ways in which the chiefs exacted taxes from the people.
The trade in sandalwood was likewise carried on in shares, and there-
fore, that gathered by taxation was but a moiety of that which has
been derived from these islands.

There was yet another mode of taxation practised until a year or
two before our visit ; this was by a duty on so much of the produce
of the islands as was carried to market. At Honolulu this amounted

D

38 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

to one-half, but at other places less frequented it was not as heavy.
Besides this, a tax was levied on trades, such as the house-builders,
&c., and even on those who washed clothes.

The tax on land was sometimes collected in money, the poll-tax
always. One year the government received twenty-five thousand
dollars ; but I understood that usually it was about half that sum.
These were government taxes; but the chiefs regulated their posses-
sions in the same manner, and so it continued throughout down to the
petty chiefs. It is not probable that any one could evade the host of
tax-gatherers ; indeed, no valuable article could be held by the lower
classes ; for if not directly falling under some of the heads of taxation,
a mode would be devised by some one of their superiors to enable him
to take it, or persuasion was resorted to, until it was given up to satisfy
the demands.

From this, it naturally resulted, that none of the lower orders, even
if they were able, would live in a large house, cook a large hog, fish
with a large net, or wear a dress of good cloth.

The lower order of chiefs, not unfrequently, made use of the king's
name to obtain the articles they wanted. This was done by spreading
a report that the king was about to a visit a place, which at once put
the whole community in a stir to build houses for him ; hogs and all
articles necessary for his entertainment would be collected, and they
even went so far at times as to cook some of the provisions. The
king not arriving, the head men, of course, appropriated the houses,
provisions, &c., enjoying themselves quite in royal style.

Thanks to the enlightening influence of the missionaries, this whole
system of taxation has gone into disuse, and the right to tax the people
is confined to the government, in which the people themselves have a
voice. The only tax that is left to chiefs and landlords is one of
labour; this is now limited to three days in a month, and the tenants
may commute it for four dollars and a half a year.

In the laying of the taxes, it has been thought advisable to have
them all estimated in money, although they are paid in a variety of
ways. They are assessed on the polls and on lands. The manner of
the assessment varies. In the first year it was made heavier on the
polls than on the lands. The poll-tax must be paid in money; and
if not paid at the time, it must be paid in double the amount of
produce. This will show the dependence they place on the facility
of gaining returns. The land-tax may be paid in produce at market
prices.

Most of the land-tax is now paid in hogs, which it is found can be

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 39

turned to very little advantage, as there is not much demand for them.
The rate of the poll-tax, from year to year, according to their present
law, is —

For able-bodied Men, .... 75 cents.

Women, 37 "

Boys, 18 "

Girls, 9 "

The land-tax is assessed, as formerly, on each ili. The amount
varies from two and a half lo ten dollars. The size of an ili may be
understood by its being capable of supporting about thirty people.

The present rate of taxation of every kind is believed to amount, on
a fair estimate, according to the government, to about eleven dollars
and fifty cents on a family, consisting of two adults and two children;
of this amount it is supposed that nine dollars is paid in labour, one in
produce, and one dollar and fifty cents in money.

The real revenue of the government falls far short of this, not
amounting to more than fifty thousand dollars annually, when, accord-
ing to the above data, it ought to be more than three hundred thousand
dollars.

Thus there appears to be a defect in the system, which is well known
to the king and chiefs. Mr. Richards believes that it is owing to the
want of a circulating medium, and the receiving those kinds of articles
that are not available in the market for cash. The fifty thousand dol-
lars goes to the petty chiefs and to the payment of rents, &c., leaving
only about fourteen thousand dollars as the actual income of His Ma-
jesty Kamehameha III.

There are many persons who are excused from paying taxes. Thus,
all fathers who have three children whom they support, are freed from
the labour-tax.

If a man has four children, he is then freed from labour-taxes both to
the king and his landlord.

If he has five, he is freed from the poll-tax.

If six, he is freed from all taxation whatever.

All old persons, and all who are sickly and feeble, all teachers of
schools and pupils in schools where the higher branches are taught, are
exempt from taxation, unless the pupils are landholders, when they pay
the land-tax.

The statistics of crime which they have are of no value, for they
have kept no regular record. I understood that, some of the chiefs
had kept records of the sentences that had been passed ; but they
were so vague, so isolated, and so defective, as to be unworthy of
confidence.

40 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

All high crimes have usually been punished with death. This .was, ,
however, previous to 1824. The executions were more like assassina-
tions than judicial punishments. Formerly among a chiefs retinue
were executioners, called ili-muku, to whom the business of punishing
capitally was committed. These persons became well known to the
people, and as no trials or any sentences were promulgated, even to see
these men abroad created general consternation, as the people knew
not where the blow was to fall, and all those who were conscious of
having committed any offence against the king considered themselves
in great peril. The victims were usually attacked in the night, with-
out giving them any warning, with clubs and stones. Such was the
fear entertained of the king's authority, that even if the executioners
were discovered, the nearest friends did not dare to give warning, or
assist in resisting them.

Those who had violated the religious taboos were seized, either
secretly or open, by the officers of the priests, and carried to the
temple, where they were stoned, strangled, or beaten to death with
clubs, and then laid on the altar to putrefy. These constituted the
great majority of executions in former times ; some indeed, were by
order of the chiefs, and in conformity to their rules of avenging private
wrongs.

A high chief, Kanihouni, was sentenced by Kamehameha to be put
to death. As he was possessed of great power and influence, many
precautions were taken to quell any rebellion that might arise from the
attempt. He was executed in the following manner. The king caused
a number of soldiers to be armed, who were concealed in a neighbour-
ing house; he then sent a silver coin to Pitt (Ivalanimoku), who,
having heard of the crime committed by Kanihouni, immediately un-
derstood the secret signal. He at once repaired to the king's house,
where he received his orders, and several of the high chiefs were also
ordered to aid him in the execution.

Kamehameha I. was greatly importuned to grant a pardon to
Kanihouni, for all the higher chiefs were his relations; but he was
inexorable, and finally threatened them, if his orders were not carried
into effect, he \vould cause some of them to be substituted instead of
the criminal.

The chiefs, finding that entreaty was in vain, went openly to the
house of Kanihouni, and put him to death in a very unusual manner.
A rope being put around his neck, and the ends of it being passed
through the opposite sides of the house, they took hold of them and
strangled him.

After the introduction of edged tools, and especially axes, beheading

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 41

secretly in the night became a common form of execution. The last
instance of this occurred in 1822.

The king sent an ili-muku in the night, who found the criminal
fast asleep, his wife by his side ; and it is said that the ili-muku gently
pulled the woman's head on one side, and with a broadaxe instantly
severed the head of the husband from his body.

In 1824, an officer at Hawaii was guilty of high treason in at-
tempting to give up the fort (in which he was serving) to the rebels.
By the order of Kalanimoku, he was taken on board a vessel, under
pretence of being sent to Oahu ; during the passage, at night, he was
taken on deck, stabbed, and thrown overboard. This is said to have
been the last punishment in the form of assassination. Since then,
capital offences have been regularly tried by jury, and executions have
been by hanging, of which the first instance was in 1826.

The whole number of executions for murder since 1826, have been
as follows :

3

Oahu

7

Maui

2
1

In all 13

Besides another murder on Hawaii, in which the culprit committed
suicide ; thus averaging one a year in the whole group, besides two
cases of manslaughter.

The mythology of the Hawaiians is extensive and complicated ; but
their gods are fast being forgotten, and few are willing to spend much
time in attending to them. Little information on this subject is to be
derived from any one with whom I had an opportunity of conversing.
What is known is contained in published accounts.

Traditions were extremely numerous, and many have been already
published in the Hawaiian Spectator.

The Hawaiians appear to have but little knowledge of astronomy.
Hoapili, who died a short time before our arrival, was accounted one
of their most skilful astrologers. They had some knowledge of the
planets, with five of which they were acquainted, viz. : Mercury
(Kawela), Venus (Naholoholo), Jupiter (Hoomanalonala), Mars (Holo-
kolapinaau), Saturn (Mukula). There was a class of persons whose
employment was to watch the motions of the stars, and who from prac-
tice became tolerably accurate observers of many celestial phenomena.
They were in the habit of telling the hour of the night quite as cor-

VOL. IV. D2 6

42 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

rectly as they did the hour of the day by the sun. This remark applies
more particularly to the fishermen and those who were employed during
the night.

It was by the particular position of the planets (or " wandering
stars") in relation to certain fixed ones, that their soothsayers grounded
their predictions of the fate of battles, and the success of all enter-
prises.

The contiguity of the planets to certain fixed stars and constella-
tions, some of which had names, foretold the speedy death of some
chief. The goddess of volcanoes (Pele) was supposed to hold inter-
course with the travelling stars, and from their movements hers were
oftentimes predicted.

The motions of the stars in the vicinity of the north pole attracted
much of their attention, and was often a subject of discussion among
their astrologers. These they designated as the regular travelling
stars, the planets were the wandering ones.

Of the true motions, they had no knowledge whatever. Their best
chronologists measured time by means both of the moon and fixed
stars. The year was divided into twelve months, and each month into
thirty days. They had a distinct name for each of the days of the
month. The following is a copy of the Hawaiian calendar.

Waileku

March.

Kaelo ....

• • • •

. . April.

Kaulua ....

....

May.

Welo ....

July.

Ihiki ....

....

August.

Kaaona

.

September.

Kinaiaelele . . .

....

. . October.

Hilinehu . . .

....

. . November.

Hclenama . .

DAYS.

1. Hilo, day of new moon.

11. Huna.

21. Olekukalii

2. Hoaka.

12. Mohalu.

22. Olekulua.

3. Kukahi.

13. Hua.

23. Olepau.

4. Kulua.

14. Akua.

24. Kaloakuki

5. Kukolu.

15. Hoku.

25. Kaloakulu

G. Kupau.

16. Mahealaui.

26. Kalo;ip;in.

7. Olekukahi.

17. Kuhi.

27. Knuo.

8. Olekulua.

18. Laaukukahi.

28. Lono.

9. Olekukolu.

19. Laaukulua.

29. Matili.

10. Olepau.

20. Laaupau.

30. Muku.

H A W A I I A N G R O U P. 43

The names of the months were not the same at all the islands, but
those of the days were.

On the island of Hawaii, to each month was assigned a particular
business, as follows :

1. Naua, -\

2. Welo, £ Months for war.

3. Ikikiki, J

4. Kaona, taboo the opelu.

5. Hinaiaeleele, catch the opelu.

G. Hilinchu, )

_ ,T... > Taxingf months.

7. Hilmama, $

8. Ikuwa, prayers, games, and dissipations.

9. Wailehu, annual feast, and pay taxes.

10. Makalii, idols carried around the island ; demanding taxes.

11. Kaelo (January), offerings for the dead; catch boneta.

12. Kaulau, fishing boneta.

Farming was carried on at all seasons of the year.

It is not a little singular that two islands so closely in the vicinity of
each other as Hawaii and Maui, both speaking the same language,
should have had their monthly calendar varying nearly two months.

With regard to the days, they commenced numbering them on the
first day the new moon is seen in the west.

This made it necessary for them to correct their reckoning every
two or three months, and reduce their year to twelve lunations in-
stead of three hundred and sixty-five days. The difference between
the sidereal and lunar year they are said to have discovered, and to
have corrected their reckoning by the stars, for which reason in practice
their years varied, some containing twelve and others thirteen lunations.

They likewise applied corrections to their months, giving them
twenty-nine and thirty days. Although this caused many breaks in
their system, yet their chronologists could always tell the name of the
day and month on which any great event had occurred ; and it is easy
to reduce their time to ours, except when the change of the moon
takes place about the middle of our calendar months, when there is
a liability to a mistake of a whole month. Another error is apt to
occur in the uncertainty of the day when the moon is discovered in
the west. It may readily be conceived that their own method did
not tend to much accuracy, as they had to rely entirely upon their
memories.

Eclipses were thought to be an attack on the sun and moon, by the
gods, and presaged a war or some other disaster.*

* In Appendix III. will be found an account of their heathen gods, and the ceremonies
attendant on the consecration of their heiaus.

44 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

They thought that much of their success depended on working in
unison with the heavenly bodies; yet, as I before said, they had not the
slightest notion of the most simple astronomical calculation.

The first little book published that contained some of the true prin-
ciples of astronomy, awakened their surprise very much ; and the
almanac published afterwards by the mission, predicting the phases
of the moon, eclipses, tides, &c., excited in them great interest, and
as was natural, raised the missionaries very much in their estimation.

They were very slow in adopting the idea of the earth being round,
and Hoapili was known to have argued the point with many of them,
insisting on their not being too precipitate in condemning the foreign
theory, as he himself was aware that in some of his fishing excursions,
he had observed that the beach was always lost sight of first.

There is proof, however, of their connecting the action of the tide
with the moon, and from her appearance they were able to tell the
state of the tides.

In their navigation they never, if they could avoid it, subjected
themselves to get out of sight of land, and were never so except by
accident. When they found this to be the case, they made use of the
heavenly bodies, if visible ; and being accurate observers of the wea-
ther and atmospheric changes, they were enabled to find their way
back again ; for the various changes of weather about the Hawaiian
Islands, and the appearance these changes brought about in the clouds
over and in the vicinity of the land, afforded them a sure guide.
From all accounts, it is supposed that but few persons have been
lost, by being driven or sailing off (through mistake) from the land.
Many disasters, however, have arisen, from the frailty and smallness
of their canoes, although their good management of them was pro-
verbial, particularly in the surf. Of late, and since they have pos-
sessed foreign vessels, they have lost much of their skill. These
vessels they manage after their own way, and although many have
been lost by wreck on the islands, I did not hear of any having been
blown off. Some amusing anecdotes were told me of their negligence
and inability to keep awake during the night.

They are quite fearless on the water ; all swim, and have little fear
of loss of life by drowning. They appear quite as much at home in
the water as on land, and many of them more so.

Many remarkable instances of their patience under this kind of
fatigue, were mentioned to me. One of them, which happened the
year of our arrival, is well authenticated, and will also tend to show
very great attachment and endurance in the female sex.

As the Hawaiian schooner Kiola, commanded by an American

HAWAIIAN GROUP. 45

named Thompson, who \vas married to Kaiha, a female chief, was
going to Hawaii, having on board many passengers, on getting into
the straits between Maui and Hawaii the schooner foundered, and all
on board, forty-five in number, were obliged to take to swimming for
safety. Thompson could swim but little, but his wife was quite expert
in the art; she promptly came to his aid, placed him on an oar, and
swam for the shore. The accident occurred on Sunday about noon,
when she with many others began to swim for the nearest land, which
was Kahoolawe. She continued to support her husband until Monday
morning, when he died from exhaustion, and she did not succeed in
reaching the shore until that afternoon. She clung to him to the last,
at the imminent risk of her own life, and was thirty hours in the
water ; she was met by some fishermen on landing, who took charge
of, and brought her back to Maui.

I have also been told that there are many instances of such deep
attachment among the Hawaiians, and that in former times widows
and widowers have been known to commit suicide, or pine away with
grief at the loss of their partners. Similar evidences of affection and
attachment were also exhibited between parents and children.

Notwithstanding the instances of this kind, I must say from my
own observation, that I should not be inclined to believe there is much
natural affection among them ; nor is there apparently any domestic
happiness. Thus, it is not an unusual thing for a husband to tell you
he has whipped his wife, because she has eaten up all his poe and fish.
Formerly their laws of taboo were calculated to produce any thing
but a kindly feeling towards the female sex ; nor is it contended that
they were of much if any consequence, if they were not of the highest
class. These, as has already been mentioned, have great influence
over the acts of government.

At the time of the advent of the missionaries, marriage was hardly-
known among them, and all the rules they observed, in relation to
sexual intercourse, were a few regulating the extent of their licentious-
ness. From tradition, however, it is believed that the marriage tie
was more regarded prior to the discovery of the island than since.
Yet it is good evidence that this tie produced no greater happiness, or
rather that they did not look to it as a source of happiness, when it is
found that none of their songs, elegies, or other poetic effusions, have
any allusion to it ; nor are there any terms in the language to express
connubial bliss.

The natives of this group generally show very little attachment to
their children. All classes of females are unwilling to be burdened
with the trouble of them, and, whenever it is possible, commit them

46 HAWAIIAN GROUP.

to others to nurse. Although I observed this frequently, yet I was
told that, since the institution of marriage, a change for the better has
taken place; but all admit that this has not been to any great extent.
There are certainly instances in which many members of a family
are united and live in harmony, and I can readily believe that the wish
to have families is daily increasing, as the laws now protect and hold
out inducements to those who have large ones. For these laws the
natives are indebted to the missionaries, who have certainly effected
this desired change. This change will do more to improve the cha-
racter of this people than any other circumstance; and, by care and
watchfulness over the wants and pleasures of the rising generation, the
parents will lose some of that selfishness, which is now so predominant
a characteristic, that a very short time spent among them suffices to
show its general prevalence.

According to the missionaries and residents, a native is content if he
can obtain a little poe and fish, and regards nothing beyond. This,
however, according to my experience, is rating them too low ; and
probably proceeds from their unwillingness to be taught, or become
passive to the will of the missionaries, or to exert themselves as much
as those doing business for money, and seeking for profit out of their
labour, desire. Thus, with different ends in view, they arrive at the
same conclusion. In regard to the energies of the natives, as far as
my own observations extended, they are always willing to work for a
reasonable compensation ; and it is not remarkable that they should
prefer their own ease to toiling for what they consider, in the one case,
unnecessary, and, in the other, for an inadequate reward.

Having little motive for industry, they expend their physical ener-
gies in various athletic sports. A favourite amusement of the chiefs
was sliding down hill on a long narrow sled : this was called holua ; it
was not unlike our boys' play, when we have snow. The sled was
made to slide on one runner, and the chiefs prostrated themselves on
it. For this sport they had a trench dug from the top of a steep hill
and down its sides, to a great distance over the adjoining plain. This
being made quite smooth, and having dry grass laid on it, they were
precipitated with great velocity down it, and, it is said, were frequently
carried a half, and sometimes a whole mile. Diamond Hill and the
plain of Waikiki was one of these localities for this pastime.

Playing in the surf was another of their amusements, and is still
much practised. It is a beautiful sight to see them coming in on tl'3
top of a heavy roller, borne along with increasing rapidity until they
suddenly disappear. What we should look upon as the most danger-
ous surf, is that they most delight in. The surf-board which they use

HAWAIIANGROUP. 47

is about six feet in length and eighteen inches wide, made of some light
wood. After they have passed within the surf, they are seen buffeting
the waves, to regain the outside, whence they again take their course,
with almost the speed of an aerial flight. They play for hours in this
way, never seeming to tire; and the time to see a Hawaiian happy, is
while he is gambolling and frolicking in the surf. I have stood for
hours watching their sport with great interest, and, I must say, with
no little envy.

Next in interest to the foregoing amusements, were their dances.
Some of these consisted, as among the other islanders, in gesture to a
monotonous song, whose lascivious meaning was easily interpreted.
Many persons were engaged in these dances, of which some are said
to have been graceful ; but if so, the people must have sadly changed
since their first intercourse with the whites.

Their music consisted of drumming on various hollow vessels, cala-
bashes, &c. ; but the instrument most used by those who could afford
one, was a piece of shark's skin, drawn tight over a hollow log.

Since the introduction of Christianity, these amusements have been
interdicted ; for, although the missionaries were somewhat averse to
destroying those of an innocent character, yet, such was the proneness
of all to indulge in lascivious thoughts and actions, that it was deemed
by them necessary to put a stop to the whole, in order to root out the
licentiousness that pervaded the land. They therefore discourage any
kind of nocturnal assemblies, as they are well satisfied that it would
take but little to revive these immoral propensities with more force than
ever. The watchfulness of the government, police, and missionaries,
is constantly required to enforce the due observance of the laws.

The principal games now in vogue among them, are cards, of which,
as they minister to their love of gambling, they are passionately fond,
and often indulge in.

They had likewise the amusement of see-saw, which has not yet
gone quite out of fashion, and is performed in a manner somewhat
different from ours. A forked post is placed in the ground ; on this a
long pole is placed, which admits several on each side. After two or
three ups and downs, they try which shall give the opposite party a
tumble. This is, at times, adroitly done, and down they all fall, to the
infinite amusement both of their adversaries and the bystanders, who
indulge in loud laughter and merriment at the expense of those who
are so unlucky as to get hurt. They are particularly ungallant, in this
respect, to their female associates.

The practice of medicine was not known in ancient times ; they
had then no physicians, and the only medical treatment, if such it may

48

HAWAIIAN GROUP.

be called, was, when they had eaten too heartily of food, to drink sea-
water in large quantities, to produce a cathartic effect. They used the
loomi-loomi, or kneading the flesh with the hands, in cases of fatigue,
over-eating, and pains ; and this is yet quite general.

The practice of medicine is said to have taken its rise in the reign
of Atapai, the predecessor of Kalaiopua, who was king when Cook
visited the islands : since that time there has been a distinct class in
this employment. An epidemic, which prevailed extensively, is said
to have been the origin of this class, and their number was greatly
increased afterwards, in the reign of Kamehameha I. ; and after this
they were to be found in great numbers, furnished with a variety of
nostrums.

STONE QUOITS, PESTLE, AND MAIKA.

CHAPTERIL

CONTENTS.

SATURDAY IN HONOLULU — SUNDAY — CHURCHES-SCHOOLS— TALENT OP THE SCHO-
LARS FOR ARITHMETIC — BURIAL-GROUND— GRAVE OF DOUGLASS THE BOTANIST-
PLAYS— MAIKA— BUHENEHENE-THROWING THE LANCE — REPAIRS OF THE VESSELS

— COURT-MARTIAL — PUNISHMENT OF SWEENY, AND TWO MARINES — DISCHARGE
OF SWEENY— POLICE OF HONOLULU— ROADS— EXPEDITION OF THE TENDER— KOLOA

— DR. PICKERING AND MR. BRACKENRIDGE'S EXCURSION — WAIME A — DR. SCHOOF —
HANAPEPE— CASCADE — CULTIVATION— DECREASING POPULATION — ITS CAUSES —
AGRICULTURE — SCHOOLS — CHURCH — ISLAND OF NIIHAU — DISTRICT OF KOLOA —
JOURNEY ACROSS THE ISLAND OF KAUAI— RIVER WAINIHA— EXCURSION OF MESSRS.
PEALE AND RICH — LIHUI — NAWILIWILI— MR. AND MRS. LAFON — SCHOOLS AND
CHURCHES — HANAWALE — DEBORAH — HER FISH - PONDS — WATERFALL — BEAUTIFUL
GROVE-TUTUI-NUT OIL— WAIOLI— MR. TITCOMB'S CULTURE OF SILK— INDIGO— DIVINE
SERVICE — CRUISE OF THE TENDER — WAILIOLI MOUNTAIN— POPULATION OF HALE-
LEA — RAWAILOA — WAIALUA — MOUNTAINS OF OAHU — SCHOOLS OF WAIALUA —
CHURCH — DISTRICT OF KOOLAU — CLIMATE OF WAI ALUA — INDUSTRY — SCHOOLS —
CHURCH— POPULATION— INTEMPERANCE — EXCURSION TO THE KAALA MOUNTAINS—
EWA — LAULOA — FOSSIL-SHELLS — CHURCH AND SCHOOLS OF EWA — POPULATION —
EXCURSION TO WAIANAE — MAUNA-KAALA — SALT LAKE — CAVES — FISH-PONDS —
KANEOHE— PEARL-RIVER HARBOUR-PRODUCTIONS OF PALI-KOOLAU— ITS CLIMATE-
SCHOOLS— RETURN OF THE FLYING -FISH— FISH-PONDS OF HONOLULU.

E

CHAPTER II.

KAUAI AND OAHU.
1840.

SATURDAY in Honolulu is a gala day, and all ages of both sexes
devote themselves to amusement. Towards the afternoon, they may
be seen wending their way towards the east end of the town, in every
variety of costume, and borne along in every possible manner. All who
have health enough must engage in this day's sport, and every horse is
in requisition. The national taste, if I may so speak, is riding horses;
and the more break-neck and furious the animal is, the better. Nicety
of equipment is not thought of: any thing answers for a saddle and
bridle, and as for stirrups, they are considered quite unnecessary. By
four o'clock the crowd is well collected, and feats of horsemanship are
practised, consisting generally in those involuntary tumblings that
inexpert riders are wont to indulge in. The great gathering is on the
eastern plain, the road to which is well covered with dust. The whole
looks, when the crowd has possession of it, not unlike a rag fair, the
predominant colour being yellow. They are generally well behaved,
and the only sufferers are the poor horses, who are kept running, not
races only, but for the amusement of the riders, whose great delight is
to ride at full speed. At times there are races, in which case the
crowd is increased by the addition of the foreigners, many of whom
are in a state of intoxication. The uproar is proportionably great,
and the natives are less conspicuous, their places being occupied by
those whose morals and enjoyments are far from being as innocent.
When his majesty and suite are present, much more order and decorum
are observed, and the whole affords a pleasing and amusing sight. The
returning throng is headed by the king and his party, after whom follow
the crowd in a somewhat uproarious style ; those on horses indiscrimi-

(51)

5iJ KAUAIANDOAHU.

nately mixed, racing and hallooing ; the fair riders being borne along,
amidst clouds of dust so thick, that were it not for the rustling of flow-
ing silks and tapas, one would be at a loss to know their sex. By the
evening, all is again quiet, and the streets are nearly deserted.

Sunday is ushered in with a decorum and quietness that would
satisfy the most scrupulous Puritan. I have often had occasion to
speak of the strict observance of the Sabbath among the Polynesian
islands ; and this strictness is no less remarkable here. Such is the
force of example, that even the least orderly of the foreigners are
prevented from indulging in any excesses; which, considering the
•worthless population the town of Honolulu contains, is a proof of the
excellence of the police regulations, and the watchfulness of the guar-
dians of the iaw.

There are several congregations of natives, some of which consist
of two thousand persons, all decently clad, exceedingly well behaved,
arid attentive. The Rev. Mr. Armstrong officiates in the oldest
church, which is at the east end of the town. It is a long grass
building, calculated to accommodate a very large number of persons :
the pulpit, or desk, is in the middle of one of the sides. Service is
held twice a day. The Rev. Mr. Smith has also a large church,
situated at the west end of the town.

There is a very large church in progress of building, of coral,
taken from the reef, which will be capable of containing a congrega-
tion of two thousand people. The funds for its erection are provided
by the government ; Dr. Judd, of the mission, has the general super-
intendence of its construction ; and it is entirely the work of natives.
It makes a good appearance, though I cannot say much for its archi-
tectural taste and beauty. It has a small steeple, sufficient to contain
a clock and bell.

There are several schools under the superintendence of the mis-
sionaries, besides the school for the chiefs, before spoken of, and a
charity school for half-breeds. I attended their examinations; and
the natives performed better than I anticipated. At an examination
in the old church, there were seven hundred children, and as many
more parents. The attraction that drew together such numbers, was
a feast, which I understood was given annually. The scholars had
banners, with various mottoes, in Hawaiian, (which were translated to
me,) as emblematical of purity, good conduct, steadfast in faith, &c.
It was as pleasing a sight as the Sunday-school exhibitions at home;
and it gave Captain Hudson and myself great pleasure, at the request
of the missionaries, to say a few words of encouragement to them.
After the services were over, the scholars formed a procession, and

KAUAIANDOAHU. 53

walked to Mr. Smith's church, the children of the governor and chiefs
heading the procession. I was invited in due form to the feast, and
as it was a place where I anticipated some display of the native
character, I made a point of going. On my arrival at the church I
found several tables set out, one for the accommodation of the chiefs,
furnished as we see for a 4th of July lunch at home, with hams, tur-
keys, chickens, pies, &c. The common people's children took their
poe and raw fish on the floor.

On arriving at the church, the governor became master of ceremo-
nies, and with his numerous aids endeavoured to direct the throng ;
but all were too eager to get the most convenient seats to heed his
commands, and the uproar was great. Some stopped short of their
allotted place, and the church soon became a human hive. The
governor did his utmost to maintain order and silence, but his voice
was not heard ; for in such a moment the anxiety he was under to
have things conducted with good order, caused him for a time to lose
sight of his usual urbanity and decorum of behaviour. He in fact
showed that a little of the unbridled ferocity of former times was
still within him, which moved him repeatedly to use his fist, and that
too upon the fair sex, tumbling them over amid calabashes of poe, raw
fish, &c., but with little injury to the individuals. Order was at last
restored for a few minutes, during which grace was said by the Rev.
Mr. Smith ; which being ended, the clatter of tongues, clashing of
teeth, and smacking of lips began. It was a joyous sight to see fifteen
hundred human beings so happy and gratified by this molasses feast :
poe and raw fish were the only additions. The latter are every-day
food, so that the molasses constituted the special treat. So great is the
fondness of the natives for it, that I was told many are induced to send
their children to school, merely to entitle them to be present at this
feast, It was not a little amusing to see the wistful faces without, con-
trasted with the joyous and happy ones within ; in one place might be
seen a sturdy native biting a piece from a raw fish, and near him ano-
ther sucking the poe off his fingers, with much grace and sleight of
hand. The molasses was either drank with water or sucked from the
fingers. I thought that selfishness predominated among the crowd ; the
parents and children did not entirely harmonize as to the share that
was due to each, and none seemed fully satisfied. Of the molasses
there was " short commons ;" but, all things considered, the feast went
off well. I regretted it had not been held in the open fields, and that
the natives were not allowed to have the whole management, without
being so immediately under the eye of their teachers ; for though suffi-

E2

54 KAUAIANDOAHU.

ciently uproarious, they were evidently under some restraint. When
the food had been consumed, silence was again restored and thanks
returned, after which the whole crowd soon vanished. While this was
going forward among the common people, those at the table of the old
and young chiefs were not idle. The turkeys, pies, &c., appeared
quite acceptable, although they were not so great a rarity to them as
the molasses feast was to the others. As far as enjoyment went, I
should have preferred to have been one of the poor scholars.

At the schools, it has been observed that the scholars are extremely
fond of calculations in arithmetic, and possess extraordinary talent in
that way. So great is their fondness for it, that in some schools the
teachers have had recourse to depriving them of the study as a
punishment. I was rather surprised with their readiness when
numerical questions were put to them. I met some who were very-
ready accountants, though their desire of change and want of stability
of character prevent them from engaging in any constant and steady
employment where the above qualifications would be of practical use
This defect of character, together with the prejudice of foreigners
who are engaged in employments where they might be useful, pre-
vents their service from being available.

In the neighbourhood of the old churches, near the mission, is the
burying-ground, which is a mere common, and the graves are exposed
to every kind of neglect. Foreigners, as well as natives, are buried
here. The only grave that was pointed out to me, was that of Douglas,
the botanist, which was without any inscription whatever. He was
gored to death, on Hawaii, having fallen into one of the cattle-pits,
where a wild bull had been entrapped. The skull of the bull was lying
in the yard of an inhabitant of Honolulu. It is to be hoped that when
the new church shall be finished, the space which adjoins it will claim
from the authorities some attention, and be suitably enclosed.

I was much struck with the absence of sports among the boys and
children. On inquiry, I learned that it had, after mature deliberation
and experience, been considered advisable by the missionaries to
deprive them of all their heathenish enjoyments, rather than allow
them to occupy their minds with any thing that might recall old
associations. The consequence is, that the Hawaiian boys are staid
and demure, having the quiet looks of old men. I cannot doubt that they
possess the natural tendency of youth towards frolicksome relaxations ;
but the fear of offending keeps a constant restraint over them. It might
be well, perhaps, to introduce some innocent amusements ; and indeed 1
believe this has been attempted, for I occasionally saw them flying kites.

KAUAIANDOAHU. 55

The native games formerly practised were all more or less those of
hazard, which doubtless gave them their principal zest.

The governor was kind enough, at my request, to have the game of
maika played. This was formerly a favourite amusement of the chiefs,
and consists in the art of rolling a stone of the above name. I had
heard many extraordinary accounts of the distance to which this could
be thrown or rolled, which was said to be sometimes upwards of a
mile.

In some places they had trenches dug for this game upwards of a
mile in length, about three feet wide and two deep, with the bottom
level, smooth, and hard. The game is, still practised, (although none of
the trenches remain,) on any level ground that may be suitable. In the
present instance, the governor selected the road in front of the house I
occupied. There was a large concourse of spectators, and several
men were chosen by the governor to throw. The maika is a piece of
hard lava, in the shape of a small wheel or roller, three inches in dia-
meter and an inch and a half thick, very smooth and highly polished.
The greatest distance to which they were thrown by the most expert
player, was four hundred and twenty yards. Many were extremely
awkward, and it was necessary for the spectators to stand well on the
side of the road for fear of accidents. All of them threw the maika
with much force, which was evident from its rebounding when it met
with any obstruction. The crowd, which amounted to three thousand
persons, were greatly amused. This was their great gambling game,
and such was its fascination, that property, wives, children, their arm
and leg bones after death, and even themselves while living, would be
staked on a single throw in the heathen time.

They have another game, which I was told is now more in vogue
than it has been for some years. The revival of it is attributed by
some to the visit of the French frigate Artemise ; and certainly the
natives do not appear to feel themselves so much restricted in their
amusements as they did before that event. It is called buhenehene,
and consists in hiding a stone under several bundles of tapa, generally
five. He who conceals it sits on one side of the bundles, while those
playing occupy a place opposite to him. The bundles are usually of
different colours, and about the size of a pillow. Each player has a
stick three feet long, ornamented with a feather or cloth, with which
each in turn designates the bundle under which he thinks the stone is
hidden, by a blow. If the guess be correct, it counts one in his favour ;

I if wrong, he who has concealed it gains one. He who first counts ten
wins the game. This game appears very simple, and one would be in-
clined to believe it all luck, until the game is witnessed ; it is really

56 KAUAI AND OAHU.

amusing to a bystander, for the players always evince great eagerness,
and during the operation of concealment, the face and eyes are nar-
rowly watched by some, while the muscles of the bare arm are by
others. So satisfied are they that the eye betrays the place of conceal-
ment, that the hider covers his eyes until he hears the stroke of the rod.
An expert player is rarely deceived, however often the hand may be
passed to and fro under the bundles. This game is now played for
pigs, tapa, taro, &c.

The governor gave us an exhibition of throwing the lance, which he
said had formerly been a favourite amusement of all the people, but
was now practised only by the soldiers. The lance or spear is formed
of a pole of the hibiscus, from seven to nine feet in length, on the larger
end of which is a small roll of tapa. The exhibition was in the fort,
where several soldiers had prepared themselves for the exercise. One
of them placed himself at a distance of fifteen or twenty paces from
three or four others, who endeavoured to hit him. He evaded the
spears by throwing his body on one side, stooping, and dodging, in a
very graceful manner. After this they were ordered to divide, and
began throwing at each other, until, when one or two had been hit
rather severely, the contest waxed warm, and blows were dealt with-
out much ceremony, until the combatants came to close quarters, when
the sport ended in a scuffle, which it required the authoritative voice
of the governor to terminate.

This scene was highly amusing, and was the only occasion during
my stay at the islands, in which I saw any temper shown, or any dis-
position to fight. The natives, indeed, are remarkably good-tempered ;
and many persons long resident here stated to me they very seldom
quarrelled with each other. I have observed that when they see
another in a passion they generally laugh, although they themselves
may be the object of it.

In the latter part of October, when the Vincennes had nearly finished
her repairs, it was discovered that her foremast was so rotten as to
make it necessary to take it out and rebuild it on shore. By using one
of the spare topmasts and purchasing a spar, we succeeded in rebuild-
ing it. The cheeks and trestle-trees of the Peacock's mast had also to
be replaced in consequence of decay. These were vexatious occur-
rences, occupying the little time we had to spare, and making it un-
certain whether we should be able to perform the remainder of our
work. Fortunately, we found at Honolulu good workmen, disposed to
afford us all the assistance in their power, and being also well provided
ourselves with carpenters, we were enabled to overcome these diffi-
culties in time, though at considerable expense.

KAUAIANDOAHU. 57

Among our other duties, a court-martial became necessary. The
services we were engaged in had rendered it impossible to convene
one prior to our arrival here ; and if it had not been for the imperative
necessity of making an example in the case of two marines on board
the Peacock, I should have been inclined still to defer it from want
of time. Besides the two marines, there was an unruly fellow by the
name of Sweeny, an Englishman, who had been shipped in the
tender at New Zealand, and was at times so riotous on board my ship,
that I determined to try him also. A court composed of the oldest
officers of the squadron sentenced them " to be flogged at such time
and place as the commander of the squadron might think proper."
Understanding from our consul that the sailors of the whaling fleet,
as is most generally the case, were disposed to be disorderly, and my
interference having been several times asked for, I thought it a good
opportunity to show the crews of all these vessels that authority to
punish offences existed. I therefore ordered the sentence of the
court to be put into execution publicly, after the usual manner in such
cases ; a part of the punishment to be inflicted at each vessel, dimi-
nishing very much its extent in the cases of the two marines. At
the time of the infliction of the punishment I received a letter (for
which see Appendix IV.) from the most respectable portion of the
crew, requesting Sweeny's discharge, and stating that he was a
troublesome character. To insure his dismissal, they offered to pay
all the debts he might owe to the government. As he had no claim
on the squadron or flag, which, I was afterwards told, he had fre-
quently cursed, and as he had been only six months in the squadron
(having joined it with scarce a shirt to his back), I resolved to comply
with the men's request, and sent him out of the squadron at once,
with his bag and hammock, far better off* than when he joined us.
The ship became orderly again, having got rid of one of the greatest
of the many rascals who are found roaming about Polynesia.

This act, together with the legal punishment of the marines for
refusing to do duty, when their time of service had not expired, was
another of the many complaints brought against me on my return.

I have obtained a copy of the enlistment of the marines, (which
will be found in Appendix V.,) that it may be seen whether it was, or
was not, my duty to hold control over these men. The signing of the
roll of enlistment took place before I took command of the squadron.
The original document was on file in the Navy Department, when the
judge advocate of the court was endeavouring to prove there was no
such document in existence.

The men's time of liberty having expired, they were again received
VOL. iv 8

58 KAUAIANDOAHU.

on board, heartily sick of their frolic. They were remarkably orderly
and well-behaved while on shore, and indeed the police is so efficient
that it would have been impossible for them to be riotous, if so dis-
posed, without finding themselves prisoners in the fort. I must here
do Governor Kekuanaoa the justice to say, that he performs the part
of a most excellent and energetic magistrate, and while he insists on
others conforming to the laws, he is equally mindful of them himself.
His fault, if he errs, lies in carrying them into effect too quickly and
without sufficient examination. An instance of this fell under my
observation, which will be spoken of at a future time.

The usual amusements for visiters in Honolulu, are billiards, bowl-
ing-alleys, riding, and visiting. There are but few vehicles, and in
consequence of the want of roads, these can go no further than the
eastern plain, which is but a short distance. A road for wheel-car-
riages might be constructed from one end of the island to the other
without difficulty, and with little expense; and this is the only island of
the group where it would be practicable from end to end.

The roads for horses are mere foot-paths, which at times pass over
very difficult places, that by a short turn might be avoided, and with
a great saving of labour. This, however, never seems to enter a
native's head, and the neglect to improve the roads is akin to his
irrational expedient of doubling his load by adding stones as a coun-
terpoise, instead of dividing his bundle.

Desirous of having as thorough an examination made of all the
islands of the group as possible, and the repairs of the tender being
completed, I put Mr. Knox in charge of her, and sent her with several
of the naturalists to Kauai, with instructions to land them, on their
return, on the west side of Oahu, for its examination.

They left Honolulu on the 25th of October, and experiencing light
winds, did not reach Kauai, although distant only a few hours' sail,
until the morning of the 27th, when they were landed at Koloa, on the
southeast side of that island. Here a heavy sea was rolling. After
the vessel anchored, some canoes came off, and the people pointed out
a good landing in a small rocky cove, that appeared as though it had
once been a large cavern, whose top had fallen in.

On landing, they entered an extensive level plain, bounded by a
ridge of mountains, and cultivated in sugar-cane and mulberries.
Captain Stetson has an establishment here built of adobes, but these
are not found to be adapted to the climate. The environs of Kol--a
ailord some pasturage; the soil is good, though dry and very stony;
the grass and foliage, however, looked luxuriant. About two miles
from Koloa, Captain Stetson has his silk establishment, consisting ol

KAUAIANDOAHU. 59

mulberry-grounds, cocoonery, &c. Our gentlemen were kindly re-
ceived by Messrs. Stetson, Peck, Burnham, and others.

Agreeably to instructions, the naturalists divided themselves into
three parties — one, consisting of Dr. Pickering and Mr. Brackenridge,
was to cross over the centre of the island, from Waimea to Halelea,
observing the botany of the high ground ; another, comprising, Messrs.
Peale and Rich, was to proceed along the coast on its eastern side ;
and the third party, Messrs Dana and Agate, intended to pursue an
intermediate course, to view the scenery, geological formation, &c.
The schooner was in the mean time to make some examinations of the
roadsteads and small harbours of the island.

There were two old craters near the beach, which were visited.
Only a few trees were observed. On the low wet grounds are taro-
patches and fish-ponds. Among the few interesting plants were a
species of Daphne, a Cleome, and some Sidas. The garden of Captain
Stetson contained several ornamental plants, brought from St. Catha-
rine's, Brazil. The garden had a pretty appearance, being enclosed
with a hedge of ti plants (Dracaena), set closely together, about five
feet in height, topped with thin, wide-spreading leaves, while the walks
were bordered with Psilotum instead of box.

The mulberry trees do not produce well here, being subject to
blight, and requiring great attention. This is thought to be owing to
the dryness of the strong trade-winds that constantly blow, and which
have parted with their moisture in passing over the high lands of Oahu,
lying directly to windward.

The silk is reeled by native women. The specimens seen appeared
of good quality, but were not reeled sufficiently fine, or with that atten-
tion to economy which is necessary to its profitable cultivation. It is
thought it will prove a good article for the Mexican market, for use in
saddlery.

From what I understood at Honolulu, this silk establishment, having
been formed on too expensive a scale, has been a failure, and the capi-
tal, or original outlay, is considered as entirely sunk. The possibility
of success is not doubted by those who have failed; but these silk
establishments should begin by small outlays and be gradually ex-
tended by the investment of the profits.

About a mile back from the landing is the mission-house, and the
sugar establishment of Messrs. Ladd & Co., with a well-made road
leading to it. Beyond this, on the brow of the hill, is situated the
house of Mr. Peck, enjoying as fine a prospect as is to be found in
these islands. Around his establishment, in native-built houses, are the
cocooneries.

60 KAUAIANDOAHU.

The sugar-mills of Ladd & Co. are said to be doing a good business.
They are turned by water. The sugar is of a fair quality, and has
been sold in the United States at a profit. The natives are induced to
raise the sugar-cane, which is sometimes ground, or manufactured, on
shares, and is also bought. The labour of the natives, in raising the
cane, costs twelve and a half cents per day. This, however, is paid in
paper currency, issued by Ladd & Co., redeemable at their store ;
consequently the price of the labour is no more than six and a quarter
cents ; for the sale of goods is rarely made in these islands under a
profit of one hundred per cent. The want of a native currency is
beginning to be much felt, both by the government and people ; a fact
that will tend to show the advance they have made and are making in
civilization.

The sugar, I understood, could be afforded in the United States at
from four to four and a half cents the pound. This, however, I think
is rather a Jow estimate, to include growth, manufacture, freight, and
charges.

Dr. Pickering and Mr. Brackenridge set out on foot, the day after
the tender arrived, along the southern coast, for Waimea, distant
eighteen miles, in order to take the western route across the island.
The whole distance between Koloa and Waimea was found to be a
series of sunburnt hills and barren plains, sloping gradually from the
base of the mountains to the ocean, and now and then intersected
with ravines, or, as they are called in the Hawaiian Islands, " gulches."
Only a few coarse grasses are met with, quite unfit for pasture.

At Waimea, the fort built by the Russians, under their absurd trade-
master, Dr. Schoof, is still in existence. His ambition would have
made him the proprietor of the whole island, although his only business
was to take possession of the remains of the wreck of a ship belonging
to the Russian Company, that had been lost in the bay. Several Russian
vessels were afterwards sent there, which Schoof took charge of, by
displacing their masters. It is said he made presents to Kamehameha
I., and received in return a grant of land from him ; some accounts say,
the whole island ! It is quite certain, however, that Kamehameha's
fears were excited by the reports that were circulated from time to
time, that the Russians, through Dr. Schoof's operations, intended to
get such a foothold as to subvert his authority, and keep possession of
the island. With his usual promptness, he, in consequence, ordered the
governor, Kaumualii, at once to send them all away. This was effected
without any disturbance, and all the Russians embarked in a brig, in
which they proceeded to Halelea, to join other Russian vessels that
were lying there, and all departed together. As any intention of taking

KAUAI AND OAHU. 01

forcible possession, or colonizing the island, was shortly afterwards
denied, in the most positive manner, by the Russians, it is probable that
the whole was the work of a vain and ambitious man, who had suddenly
found himself elevated above his own sphere. That he either wanted
the inclination or the courage to carry out his conceptions, if he had
any, is manifest, from his immediate acquiescence to the order of the
chief to quit the island. He is now known at the islands under the
appellation of the Russian Doctor, although by birth a German. The
Russian Stone Fort, as it is now called, is garrisoned by a guard of
natives.

Waimea offers the best anchorage at this island, except in the months
of January and February, when the trades are interrupted, and the
wind blows strong from the southwest, and directly on shore.

About a mile west of Waimea is the spot where the first English
boat landed from Cook's expedition. The village of Waimea takes its
name from the river, which rises in the mountains, and after a course
of about fifteen miles, enters the sea there. It is navigable three-fourths
of a mile from its mouth, in boats. The water is used for irrigating the
valley, and might also be appropriated to manufacturing purposes, as
there are many excellent mill-seats, and a steady supply of water for
such purposes.

The district in which Waimea is situated, is called Hanapepe, and
extends to Napali on the west, and Hanapepe on the east. The former
is about twenty miles distant from Waimea, and the latter six. At
Napali a part of the central range of mountains meets the sea, and shuts
in the plain near the sea-shore by a perpendicular precipice, between
fifteen hundred and two thousand feet in height.

The sandy plain that skirts the southwest side of the island is from
one-fourth of a mile to a mile wide, and lies one hundred and fifty feet
above the level of the sea ; the ground rises thence gradually to the
summit of the mountains. This land is fit for little except the pastu-
rage of goats, and presents a sunburnt appearance, being destitute of
trees to the distance of eight or ten miles from the sea. The plain
above spoken of, therefore, has little to recommend it. There is a strip
of land just before the mountain ascent begins, which has an excellent
soil, but for the want of water will probably long remain unproductive.
On the low grounds the cocoa-nut tree thrives and bears abundant fruit,
which is not the case with those on the other islands.

The sea-coast bounding this district, is considered the best foi
fishing, and the manufacture of salt might be extensively carried on.

The drinking water, except that obtained from the river, is brackish.

The valley of Hanapepe borders on the eastern part of this district:

G2 KAUAIANDOAHU.

it has apparently been formed by volcanic action. At its entrance it is
about half a mile wide, and decreases in width as it approaches the
mountains. At its head is a beautiful waterfall, of which Mr. Agate
succeeded in getting a correct drawing.

The basaltic rocks and strata, as it will be seen, have been much
reversed and upturned, and present their columnar structure very dis-
tinctly to view, inclining in opposite directions. Although the volume
of water in this cascade is not great, yet its form and situation add
very much to its beauty: it falls into a quiet basin beneath, and the
spray being driven by the wind upon each bank, affords nourishment
to a variety of ferns which grow there. At its foot it forms a small
river, which passes down through the centre of the valley. This
whole scene is very striking, the banks forming a kind of amphitheatre
rich in foliage, and with rills of water coursing down them in every
direction.

The water of this stream is used by the natives to irrigate their taro-
patches, and the soil of the valley is exceedingly fertile, producing
sweet-potatoes, pumpkins, cabbages, beans, &c. The whole district is
almost entirely supplied with food from the Hanapepe and Waimea
valleys, which occasions the population for the most part to centre in
these two places : throughout the remainder of the island, the huts and
inhabitants are but sparsely scattered.

The district of Hanapepe forms a mission station, and is under the
care of the Rev. Samuel Whitney. He states the population in 1838
to have been 3272. Mr. Whilney informed me, that for some years
past he has kept a register of births and deaths, which shows that the
latter is to the former as three to one. Other late authorities make the
decrease in this district as eight to one for several years ; but a resident
of such standing as Mr. Whitney must be reckoned the best authority.

Mr. Whitney imputes this rapid decrease to former vicious habits,
and both native and foreign authorities attribute the introduction of the
venereal to the visit of Cook. This infection, brought to these islands
by the first voyagers, may now be said to pervade the whole popula-
tion, and has reduced the natives to a morbid sickly state; many of the
women are incapable of child-bearing, and of the children who are born
only a few live to come to maturity.

Mr. Whitney assigns as another cause of the decrease in the popu-
lation, the recklessness of human life, brought about by the despotic
government under which they have been living, which has destroyed
all motives to enterprise and industry, rendered precarious the blessings
of life, and produced a corresponding recklessness as to the future.
Much of the sickness is owing to over-eating and irregularity in meals:

KAUAIANDOAHU. G3

for the inhabitants fast sometimes for days together, and then gorman-
dize to the greatest excess.

There has been no case of infanticide, to Mr. Whitney's knowledge,
during the last ten years, and he does not believe that the law interdict-
ing sexual intercourse is promotive of this crime; for from all his
inquiries, he has not been able to learn a single fact that will tend to
warrant such a conclusion : on the contrary, he thinks that the law in
question has rather acted to prevent its commission.

Intoxication certainly forms no part of the cause of diseases, for Mr.
Whitney boars testimony, that he has not known six cases of intoxica-
tion within the last thirteen years. A spirit, however, is distilled from
the ti, potatoes, watermelon, &c.

The marriage law has had a good effect in this district, and will
probably be the means of arresting the desolation that is now sweeping
over the land. From thirty to forty marriages have taken place yearly.
I have been thus particular in the population of this district, as it is
generally reported to be that wherein the causes of decrease are most
active. This cannot be owing to the climate, which is very similar to
that of the leeward portions of the other islands, and the atmosphere is
considered dry and healthy. Can it be owing to the fact, that the
original virus of the disease was here first spread, and that it has con-
tinued to be more virulent here than elsewhere ?

As respects agriculture, there being no market for the sale of pro-
duce, the supply seldom exceeds the wants of the district. Some
attempts have, however, been made to produce cotton and the sugar-
cane ; but, for want of encouragement, the produce has not yet been
sufficient to clear the expenses.

The improvement in the morals and instruction of the natives is very
considerable. There are sixteen schools, all taught by native teachers,
at the expense of the people. Two-thirds of the adult population read,
and many of them can also write. The instruction is now confined to
the youth and children, of whom about three hundred attend the schools
regularly, and six hundred more occasionally. Much improvement has
lately taken place in their habitations, and in the manufacturing of their
wearing apparel, consisting of tapa, &c.

There is one church, and one hundred and fifty-nine communicants :
the number that attend worship in the morning is about a thousand, and
in the afternoon about half that number.

The island of Niihau was not visited by any one belonging to the
squadron ; but it seems proper that in giving an account of the Hawaiian
Islands, it should be spoken of. It is situated sixteen miles southwest
of Kauai, arid is eighteen miles long by eight broad. There is an

64 KAUAIANDOAHU.

anchorage on its western side, but no harbour. Its eastern side is
rocky and unfit for cultivation; the inhabitants therefore reside on its
\vestern side, on the sea-shore, and are for the most part miserably
poor. They cultivate, principally, yams and sweet-potatoes, the former
of which succeed much better here than at any of the other islands.
Water is very scarce, and they suffer occasionally from droughts, from
which cause they are not able to raise the taro. This island is cele-
brated for the beautiful mats manufactured by its women. It is also
said to be a favourable place for the manufacture of salt.

The number of inhabitants is one thousand ; and what is remark-
able, although but a few miles removed from Waimea, on the island
of Kauai, they show an increase, in the proportion of births over
deaths, of eight to six. The climate cannot be very different, and
both would be equally subject to drought, if it were not for the rivers
and the irrigation dependent on them. On this island there are two
hundred children, about one-third of whom read : these are divided
into twelve schools, under native teachers.

The district of Koloa on Kauai is twelve miles long by five broad.
The face of the country is much broken into hills and extinguished
craters. The land is good along its whole extent and half its breadth,
and they have a sufficient quantity of rain to enable them to dispense
with irrigation, of which but a small extent only would be susceptible.

The climate is generally mild and equable, the range of the ther-
mometer being usually from 60° to 80° F. ; but during the summer
months it is occasionally found as high as 90°, and in winter as low
as 50°. Sugar-cane grows in luxuriance, as well as cotton; the mul-
berry, both Chinese and multicaulis, Indian corn, sweet-potatoes, yams,
and taro also flourish.

This has been the seat of the operations of some foreigners (Ameri-
cans), and although, as has been before remarked, the natives derive
but little pecuniary profit from their labour, yet the influence of a steady
occupation has produced a striking improvement : they are clothed in
foreign goods, and are generally found employed, and not lounging
about as formerly. The comforts of their habitations have, however,
as yet undergone but little change.

The population in 1840, was one thousand three hundred and forty-
eight. There is a church, with one hundred and twenty-six members,
but no schools. The teachers set apart for this service were em-
ployed by the chiefs, who frequently make use of them to keep tluir
accounts, gather in their taxes, &c. The population is here again
increasing, partly by immigration, whence it was difficult to ascertain
its ratio. This district, it will be observed, lies immediately on the

KAUAIANDOAHU. 65

east of Hanapepe. Infanticide is not known, and drunkenness rarely
if ever happens. There are no epidemics; asthma and ophthalmia
are the diseases most prevalent: the latter is ascribed to the strong
winds which blow constantly, and irritate the eye with the minute
particles borne on them.

There is no western route from Waimea to Halelea ; it is therefore
necessary, in getting to Napali, to take a canoe and coast along the
shore. As this would not have answered the purpose of our gentle-
men's visit, they determined to take the path directly across the
island, and were provided with two guides by the kindness of Mr.
Whitney. They left his hospitable mansion the next morning, hav-
ing noted the standing of the sympiesometer. Shortly after starting
they were joined by a native, laden with provisions and cooking
utensils, which the kindness of Mr. Whitney had provided, and sent
for their use. They at once commenced a very gradual ascent over
a barren surface to the half-way house, about twelve miles. At first
they found nothing but withered grass, then a few ferns, where goats
only could find pasturage, and, a mile or two before reaching the half-
way house, some stunted acacias and sandalwood. The route was
along the river the whole distance, though in a deep gorge beneath
them. All the wood used at Waimea must be brought from this dis-
tance. Their guides carried them about a mile beyond the half-way
house, to a deserted hut, intending to stop there for the night; but our
gentlemen found it so infested with fleas and vermin, that, although it
rained, they returned, and passed the night comparatively free from
these annoyances. The height of the half-way hut, as given by the
sympiesometer, was three thousand four hundred feet. The sea was
in sight the whole distance, and the coast was seen as far to the west
as Napali. The country thus seen appeared similar to what they had
passed over: it was furrowed in places by ravines, but yields no water
except when rain falls abundantly upon the mountains.

At half-past 5 p. M., the thermometer stood at 69°, and the next
morning at half-past six at 72°.

After sending the native back to Waimea who brought the comforts
which Mr. Whitney's kindness had provided them with, they began
their journey across the island, and entered into a very luxuriant
and interesting botanical region, passing through several glades,
which appeared well adapted for the cultivation of wheat and Irish
potatoes (which have never been tried here). Large tracts were free
from wood and level, on which was growing a sort of wild cabbage
in great abundance. Wild hogs were evidently numerous, for many
were started in the bush, and their rooting was to be seen along the

VOL. iv. F2 9

66 KAUAIANDOAHU.

whole route. Wild dogs are said also to exist in bands. During the
day, a storm of wind and rain came on. After passing this fertile
region, they reached the table-land, which is a marshy district, filled
with quagmires, exceedingly difficult to travel through, and in which
they frequently sunk up to their knees in mud and water. This table-
land was supposed to be upwards of twenty miles square. Here the
natives were inclined to turn back; but, as they afterwards said, they
considered themselves bound to proceed " on so unusual an occasion."
Their fears arose from the report that natives had been lost in crossing
by this path. At about 8 p. M., they reached the Pali or precipice,
which is like that of Oahu, having a very abrupt, though not danger-
ous, descent. Many interesting plants were gathered on this route,
such as Acaena, Daphne, Pelargonium, Plantago, Drosera, with seve-
ral interesting grasses.

At the Pali they neglected to make observations with the sympieso-
meter, but their impression was that the height was six or seven hun-
dred feet more than the situation of the half-way house, which would
give an altitude of about four thousand feet. Mr. Alexander, the mis-
sionary at Halelea, informed them that he had made it that height by
triangulation.

The descent of the Pali was found to be very steep and fatiguing ;
but by slipping, tumbling, scrambling, and swinging from tree to tree,
they reached the margin of the river Wainiha, at its foot. The stream
was in this place about six hundred feet above tide. They were
obliged to ford it; and in consequence of the heavy rain of the day
before, it was so much swollen as to be almost impassable, the water
reaching to their breasts. This, together with floundering through the
taro-patches, as the darkness set in, made them consent to take up their
lodgings in a native hut. In the morning they passed down the valley
of Wainiha, which here forms a glen. The sides of the mountains,
that rise abruptly about fifteen hundred feet on each side, are covered
with vegetation in every variety of tint ; whilst the tutui tree (Candle-
nut), the bread-fruit, orange, banana, plantations of Broussonetia papy-
rifera, and taro-beds, together with pandanus trees, whose blossoms
scent the air for miles, filled the valley with luxuriance. This prolific
vegetation, with numerous cascades falling over the perpendicular sides
of the rock, combine to form one of the most picturesque scenes on this
island.

About noon they reached Halelea, most of the distance to which
was travelled along the sea-shore. On their way they crossed the Lu-
mahae, a river similar to the Wainiha, and running parallel with it.
The foot of the Pali is about five miles from the coast.

KAUAIANDOAHU. 67

The extensive sugar plantations, with a few neat cottages, with ve-
randas and thatched roofs, and the rows of small cabins for the labour-
ers, give the place the aspect of the tropical plantations of European
nations.

Messrs. Peale and Rich, being furnished with horses and a guide by
the kindness of Mr. Burnham, took the eastern route to Halelea
through a fine level country, cultivated in sugar-cane and affording
good pasturage. The natives here use the plough, and it was said at
Koloa that there was an instance of twro of them having netted one

o

hundred and forty dollars by their crop of sugar the last year.

The principal trees were acacias (koa), pandanus, the tutui (Ale-
urites). The latter is the largest and most conspicuous, from its
white leaves resembling blossoms at a distance. The plain over
which they passed was two hundred and fifty feet above the level
of the sea. There are in it many gullies, formed by the small streams
that run down from the mountains ; all of these are, however, blocked
up by sand-bars, through which the water filtrates, forming quick-
sands, which it is somewhat dangerous to pass over. The immediate
shore along this route is rocky and susceptible of little cultivation,
except near the mouths of the rivers, where taro-patches are to be
found.

At noon they reached Lihui, a settlement lately undertaken by the
Rev. Mr. Lafon, for the purpose of inducing the natives to remove
from the sea-coast, thus abandoning their poor lands to cultivate the
rich plains above. Mr. Lafon has the charge of the mission district
lying between those of Koloa and Waioli. This district was a short
time ago formed out of the other two.

The principal village is Nawiliwili, ten miles east of Koloa. This
district contains about forty square miles, being twenty miles long by
two broad. The soil is rich : it produces sugar-cane, taro, sweet-pota-
toes, beans, &c. The only market is that of Koloa. The cane suffers
somewhat from the high winds on the plains.

Mr. and Mrs. Lafon are very industrious with their large school, to
which some of the children come a distance of five miles. Our gen-
tlemen were much pleased with what they saw, and wTere satisfied that
good would be effected by their manner of treating the natives.

The temperature of Lihui has much the same range as that of Koloa,
and the climate is pleasant: the trade-winds sweep over it uninter-
ruptedly, and sufficient rain falls to keep the vegetation green through-
out the year.

As yet there is little appearance of increase in industry, or im-
provement in the dwellings of the natives. There are no more than

68 KAUAI AND OAHU.

about seventy pupils in this district, who arc taught by natives. There
are two houses of worship, and about forty communicants. No de-
crease is apparent in the population within a few years.

On the fertile places, although the pasturage was good, yet no cattle
were to be seen.

From Lihui, they pursued their way to Hanawale, which is a small
fishing village at the mouth of a little stream. The country on this
route was uninteresting, until they reached VVailua, the residence of
Deborah, a chief woman of the islands, readily known as such from
her enormous size, and the cast of her countenance. She has a person
living with her called Olivia Chapin, who speaks English, and has
learned how to extort money. Deborah has about forty men in her
district; but they were absent, being employed in trie mountains cut-
ting timber to pay the tax to the king.

Near Deborah's residence are extensive fish-ponds belonging to her,
which have been made with great labour: they are of different degrees
of saltness. The fish are taken from the sea when young and put into
the saltest pond ; as they grow larger, they are removed into one less
salt, and are finally fattened in fresh water. While our gentlemen
were there, Deborah received young fish in payment of the poll-tax,
which were immediately transferred to her ponds.

Wailua, (two waters,) was formerly a place of some importance.
It is situated on a small stream of the same name, in a barren, sandy
spot.

Deborah furnished them with a double canoe, to carry them up the
river to visit the falls. Taking the western branch, they ascended it
for two and a half miles.

There are many good taro-patches and sugar plantations on its
banks. They landed in what appeared to have been an old crater, in
form of a basin, with high perpendicular banks. The low grounds
along the river are extremely fertile, producing bread-fruit, sugar-cane,
oranges, &c. The latter, however, are suffering from the blight, and
some of the trees were covered with a black smut, produced by a
species of aphis.

In ascending, an insulated black rock is passed, known as the
"Muu," which has been detached from a high rocky bluff, that is
remarkable for the dikes visible in it.

They afterwards ascended the bank, two hundred feet high, and
crossed about half a mile to the falls, over a plain covered with grass
and wild sugar-cane. The stream was very small, running sluggishly,
and passed over a precipice of barren rocks, one hundred and sixty
feet in height. Although there is neither tree nor shrub along the

KAUAIANDOAHU. 69

stream above the fall, the valley beneath is filled with them ; the
most conspicuous was the pandanus. The whole scene is picturesque.
Below, the falls present a very curious appearance, the wind con-
tinually breaking and dispersing the water in heavy showers over a
great variety of ferns, which are growing in the crevices of the rocks.
The volume of water does not exceed ten hogsheads a minute. In the
basin beneath were found many fine specimens of Neritina granulata,
and two other species were found further down the stream, about
four feet below the surface : these were procured by diving. Mr.
Rich obtained specimens of the plants. Mr. Peale found but few
birds; ducks were abundant on the river's banks, some of which
were killed. Rushes were growing along the banks from eight to ten
feet in length, four or five feet under the water; besides these, the
banks were covered with hibiscus and ricinus (castor-oil trees), grow-
ing wild.

Returning to Deborah's, where they remained for the night, they
met Messrs. Dana and Agate. Deborah entertained them in "white
style," at a table set with knives, forks, &c., arid gave them tea and
sugar. Their bed was native, and composed of a platform of about
twelve feet square, covered with mats. This proved comfortable, with
tapa as a covering in lieu of linen.

The next morning, they started for Waioli and Halelea. The
country on the way is of the same character as that already seen.
They passed the small villages of Kupau, Kealia, Anehola, Mowaa,
and Kauharaki, situated at the mouths of the mountain streams, which
were closed with similar sand-bars to those already described. These
bars afforded places to cross at, though requiring great precaution
when on horseback. The streams above the bars were in most cases
deep, wide, and navigable a few miles for canoes. Besides the sugar-
cane, taro, &c., some good fields of rice were seen. The country
may be called open ; it is covered with grass forming excellent
pasture-grounds, and abounds in plover and turnstones, scattered in
small flocks.

On their way they passed through a beautiful grove of tutui-nut
trees, in which the Rev. Mr. Alexander is in the habit of preaching
to the natives. These trees are large, and form a delightful shade.
There are few places in the open air so well calculated to hold divine
service in, and it is well fitted to create feelings of religion. The
view, by Mr. Agate, will give a good idea of it.

These nut-trees grow with great luxuriance on this island ; and an
excellent oil is expressed from the nut, which already forms an
export from these islands. We heard here, that at New York, it

70 KAUAIANDOAHU.

was pronounced superior lo linseed-oil for painting. There is a manu-
factory of it at Honolulu ; but I understood that it dried with dilHculty.
It is said to bring one dollar per gallon on the coast of South America.
The native candle is made of these nuts strung upon a straw ; they are
likewise roasted and eaten.

Before reaching Waioli, they passed through a forest of pandanus
trees. Waioli is a mission station, the residence of the Rev. Mr.
Alexander, by whom they were very kindly received. This district is
called Halclea. Waioli is on the north side of Kauai. The plain on
which it is situated is only six or eight feet above the level of the sea,
and lies between the Halelea and Waioli rivers. Though of small
extent, it is one of the most fertile spots of which these islands can
boast.

The Halelea district comprises a large proportion of arable land : it
extends to the distance of twenty miles to the eastward of Waioli;
the portion, however, which lies to the westward is of a totally
different description, being broken up into precipices and ravines,
affording no inducements to the agriculturist, and having very few
spots susceptible of cultivation; its extent is about fifteen miles. The
eastern portion is watered by at least twenty streams ; many of these
are large enough to be termed rivers, and might be employed to turn
machinery. It is elevated from three to eight hundred feet above the
sea, and comprises about fifty thousand acres of land, capable of pro-
ducing sugar-cane, cotton, indigo, coffee, corn, beans, the mulberry,
and vegetables in every variety. It now produces taro, sweet-potatoes,
yams, bread-fruit, bananas, plantains, squashes, melons, beans, Indian
corn, and cocoa-nuts. Sugar-cane grows spontaneously. Mulberry
trees flourish, of which there are four kinds, the Chinese, the multi-
caulis, the white, and the black : the latter variety has a small leaf.
The vegetation is extremely luxuriant from the frequent rains. The
sugar-cane, and mulberry, both Chinese and multicaulis, are the staple
articles of culture. The mulberry has here a most rapid growth, and
being sheltered from the strong winds, it succeeds well. Some of the
leaves of the multicaulis are of the enormous size of fifteen inches in
length by twelve in breadth. Mr. Titcomb has a large plantation of
both kinds, and an extensive cocoonery in operation. He has succeeded
in making silk of excellent quality, both for the loom and sewing. He
gives his personal attention to this business, and began in a small way.
I understood that he had succeeded in it. His greatest difficulty is the
unsteady labour of the natives, and he also experiences, at times, diffi-
culty in preserving the worms. The silk is procured from the American
worm and a cross-breed between the Chinese and American. The

KAUAIANDOAHU. 71

yield of the latter is fine and of a pale yellow or orange silk ; of the
former the colour is white, and much coarser.

Indigo is produced in the valley of Halelea, and grows well. Mr.
Alexander had some growing, but his plants, from being allowed to get
too high, have become woody and scraggy, and produce very indifferent
foliage. The manufacture of indigo is not understood in the Sandwich
Islands, although the plant flourishes so well there that it has run wild,
and with proper knowledge and attention, in the opinion of our bota-
nists, might produce a profitable crop.

The tutui-nut tree (Aleurites triloba) is very abundant, several thou-
sand acres being covered with forests of it. The island abounds in
very many excellent woods for the cabinet-maker, joiner, and ship-
builder ; of which I received a large number of specimens, presented to
the Expedition by Mr. Ladd, of Oahu, who was kind enough to order
the collection to be made by his partner at Koloa.

The rivers, as well as sea, abound in excellent fish, and afford a
plentiful harvest to the fisherman.

Goats, hogs, and poultry of all kinds are raised, but there is no
market nearer than Koloa or Oahu for their sale; these, whenever
possible, are resorted to.

The climate, as to temperature, is about three degrees cooler than
the other side of the island: the range of the thermometer, from
January to May, was from 50° to 82°; sometimes it has been known
to fall as low as 52°, and rise as high as 87°. The inhabitants never
suffer from heat, and the rains are so frequent as to clothe the country
in perpetual green. It rains nearly nine months in the year, and,
from the rainbows formed by these passing showers, it has obtained
its name, which signifies the land or place of rainbows, Halelea. A
few days of dry weather are quite unusual. During three months,
included in the above nine, rain fell on fifty-two days ; fourteen were
cloudy. During the remaining twenty-four the weather was clear, but
it rained occasionally at night.

Our gentlemen made several excursions back of Halelea with Mr.
Alexander, and endeavoured to ascend the peaks; but the rain pre-
vented their doing so. They obtained many interesting specimens of
plants and birds, among the former of which were a number of ferns.

On the 1st of November they attended Mr. Alexander's church.
The congregation was composed of about four hundred. They were
all much struck with the dress of the native women, its unusual neat-
ness and becoming appearance. It seemed remarkable that so many
of them should be clothed in foreign manufacture, and that apparently

72 KAUAIANDOAHU.

of an expensive kind ; but on a closer examination, the dresses proved
to be tapas, printed in imitation of merino shawls, ribands, &c.

The tender making her appearance in the harbour, our gentlemen
received notice to repair on board in the evening. Mr. Knox had cir-
cumnavigated the island, and made surveys of its small harbours :
there are none of these fit for a vessel to ride in; that of Waimea, as
I said before, is the safest, but Halelea is frequently used ; and although
much exposed to the winds, it has more pretension to the name of a
harbour, than the rest. It is remarkable from having been the place
where the pride of Salem, " Cleopatra's Barge," was wrecked. The
west coast of the island was found destitute of harbours or anchorage,
having a perpendicular cliff rising from the sea for the greatest part of
the distance.

The Halelea river is navigable for canoes about three miles ; it is
from one to two hundred feet wide, has but little current, and is slightly
affected by the tide near its mouth.

The highest point on the island, which is estimated at six thousand
feet is called Wailioli. Mr. Alexander stated, that it had been ascended
on its eastern side from Waioli. I regretted afterwards I had not de-
spatched officers to ascend it, but our naval duties were so pressing
upon all, that I found it impossible to spare any one at the time I
ordered the party to Kauai. I also partly indulged the hope, that those
who were to cross over the centre of the island, would have been led
near it, and thus tempted to make the ascent. From the information
I have received, it is supposed to have a crater on its summit, like
many of the other high mountains in the group. It is said, that when
the weather is clear, the natives ascend it for the purpose of getting a
view of Oahu, one hundred miles distant.

The population of this district has been for several years decreasing,
and Mr. Alexander estimates the decrease to be one-hundredth annually
for the last nine years. In 1837, the population was 3024; the proportion
of the sexes was — males, 1609 ; females, 1415. In 1840, population,
2935— males, 1563; females, 1372.

The census taken in 1840, is no doubt much more accurate than any
heretofore made, and as far as the ability of the king's officers go, it
may be depended upon. Mr. Alexander is inclined to impute the de-
crease to former licentiousness, as well as to the barrenness of the
women. Those who have children, lose them at a premature age, and
abortion is produced sometimes, from fear of the pains of parturition.
Mr. Alexander has known of only five cases of the latter description
within six years, the time of his residence here ; so that this latter

KAUAIANDOAHU. 73

cause can have but little influence. This is true also as regards in-
temperance, for he bears testimony to his having never seen a native
intoxicated on Kauai. The touching of a French whale-ship at
Waimea and landing a quantity of wine and brandy, has, he thinks, re-
vived their propensities of fifteen or twenty years past ; and when the
liquors were exhausted, they were found resorting to a method of
distillation of their own, or subjecting various fruits to the process of
fermentation until they would produce intoxicating effects. All this
has been promptly arrested by the activity of the judges and their
agents.

In this district comparatively few die of acute diseases. Dropsies
are among the most frequent ; palsies and diseases of the lungs also
occur ; syphilis is rare, but gonorrhoea prevails extensively.

The climate is considered very salubrious. Immoderate eating and
fasting, living in damp huts, long exposure in the water, and sleeping
on the ground, are all assigned as causes for the many sick and weak
among the natives.

The schools in this district have, as elsewhere, undergone an entire
revolution. Formerly, all the adult population were included among
the pupils ; now they consist only of children, and within two years
past these have greatly fallen off in numbers — as much indeed as one
half. Mr. and Mrs. Johnson, with some native teachers, have charge
of the school. Mr. Alexander thinks, that the native children are not
inferior to those of other lands in point of intellect. These schools,
unlike those of Tahiti, are kept open five days in the week, and six
hours each day. Besides the school at Wailua, there are several others
at different places. The teachers are relieved from all government
taxation, except the poll-tax, and receive whatever the congrega-
tion contribute at the monthly meetings, which Mr. Alexander com-
putes at about forty dollars for the last seven months ; this sum di-
vided among eight teachers, does not give each of them one dollar a
month !

The church was established at this station in 1834, by five persons
from the church at Waimea, and five others ; these received an exami-
nation. The church now consists of eighty members. Three persons
have been excommunicated, and four have died. The congregation on
the Sabbath amounts to from six to eight hundred.

Large quantities of beans were raised on this island, in hopes of
supplying the whalers with them ; but, after they had been raised and
carried to Oahu, they discovered that those ships did not use them.
This is one instance, among many, of the want of practical knowledge
on these islands.

VOL. IV. G 10

74 KAUAIANDOAHU.

On the arrival of the tender, Mr. Knox received a present of fine
fresh beef from the farm of Mr. Charlton, H. B. M. consul. The cattle
are thought to be finer here than on any of the other islands, and the
price for them is much more reasonable. Mr. Charlton has upwards
of one hundred head.

At 10 p. M. the tender, having received the party on board, took
advantage of the land-breeze and stood for Oahu.

In quitting Kauai, I must return my own thanks, as well as those of
the gentlemen of the squadron who were the recipients of the attentions
and hospitality of our countrymen and other residents on Kauai ; and
I also tender my sincere acknowledgments for the information derived
and the assistance rendered by them.

On the 3d, the tender reached Rawailoa, in Waialua district, and
the naturalists were landed on the western side of Oahu.

The coast here forms a small bay, and has a dreary aspect on first
landing. The soil is sandy and poor ; the huts are in ruins, and the
inhabitants present a miserable, squalid appearance. A short distance
from the coast an agreeable change is met with, in extensive taro-
patches, fish-ponds, and fine fields of sugar-cane. The habitations in
this part, are neat and comfortable, and the natives cheerful and clean.

It was near this place that Mr. Gooch, who accompanied Vancouver,
was killed by the natives. Our gentlemen were kindly welcomed by
Messrs. Emerson and Locke, the former having charge of the station,
and the latter of a school on the Peztalozzian system. There are only
fourteen boys in the school : they look well, and are neatly clothed ;
but it is not thought to be doing well, for the natives do not like the
plan of having their children taken entirely from their own control ; yet
this is essential to success. The boys all live within Mr. Locke's
enclosure, and are seldom out of his sight. Agriculture is their prin-
cipal employment, and some of them were seen to yoke oxen and
manage the plough with adroitness. They are also taught reading,
writing, and arithmetic, for which they evince great fondness. Mr.
Locke is enthusiastic in his undertaking, and well deserves success,
though I cannot but view the experiment as very doubtful.*

Here the party again divided, to explore the island of Oahu, on their
way to Honolulu. The district of Waialua stretches from the most
westerly cape, called Kaena, to Waimea, in the district of Koolaulo,
on the northeast, and to Waianae on the southwest, a distance along

* Since leaving the island, I have learned that Mr. Locke had, in farther experinie- ts,
satisfied all that his success was quite equal to his anticipations ; and I regretted, in late
advices, to learn of his death, after a few days' illness, being thus cut off in the full tide of
his usefulness.

KAUAIANDOAHU. 75

the coast of above twenty miles. Within this district are a few bays
for vessels not exceeding one hundred and fifty tons burden ; the best
of these is Rawailoa. Those to the northeast are Waimea, Haula,
Kakaua, Moluilui, and Makua. Like all the rest of the places, they are
dependent on Honolulu, which is thirty miles distant, for a market. A
good road might very easily be constructed, and very nearly level, on
the plain that lies between the two high mountain ranges which traverse
the island from east to west. One of these ranges is called Konahaunui,
the other Kaala ; the former occupies the eastern end of the island, the
latter the western. Both are basaltic. It is remarked of these two
ranges, that the soil and growth of the plants are dissimilar; for
instance, the kauwila, the wiliwili, the haw, and the uhiuhi are found on
the Kaala, and are either not found, or only in a dwarfish state, on the
Konahaunui; whilst the acacia (koa), and the lehua, do not exist on
the former, though growing luxuriantly on the latter.

Waialua lies at the foot of the Konahaunui range, on its western
slope, while the northern slope of Kaala nearly reaches it. Here begins
the plain before mentioned, which extends to Ewa, a distance of about
twenty miles. Part of the Waialua district is cultivated by irrigation,
and produces abundantly. Five considerable streams water it from
the Konahaunui range, passing down the fertile valleys. The largest
of these is quite sufficient to supply motive power the whole year round.
On the banks of the Ewa are many thousand acres of land wholly un-
occupied, which are capable of growing cotton, sugar-cane, indigo, the
mulberry, &c., to any extent. From sources that are to be depended
upon, I was informed that there are upwards of thirty square miles in
the Waialua district that can be cultivated without irrigation.

The people are as indolent as usual, having but few wants, and those
easily supplied ; there is now, however, some hope of their improve-
ment, because the conveniences of civilized life are gradually being
introduced, the desire of obtaining which gives them an incentive to
exertion. They cannot yet be induced to change their ancient dwell-
ings for better habitations, and still adhere with pertinacity to their
thatched grass huts, without floors or windows, and destitute of venti-
lation : these dwellings may with truth be termed, miserable hovels.

The mountain range of Konahaunui runs close to the north shore
of the island, leaving only a narrow strip of land, varying from a half
to two miles in width, and twenty miles in length : this is called the
Koolaulo district. It is only a few feet above the level of the sea, and
has a gradual ascent to the foot of the precipices. The mountain spurs
from the main chain are numerous : some of these are of great length,
and enclose valleys having a very fertile soil. The land on the imme-

76

KAUAI AND OAHU.

diate coast is also good, and receives an abundance of rain for agricul-
tural purposes. There are here also several small streams, sufficiently
well supplied with water to drive the machinery for sugar-mills.

The scenery of this district is surpassed by that of few places in
beauty, boldness, and variety ; stupendous precipices rising some two
or three thousand feet, with small streams rushing over and down
their sides, resembling so many strings of silver girdling them, and
here and there lost among the light and airy foliage. To whichever
side the traveller turns himself, he is sure to find something to interest
and attract his attention. The Kaluamei waterfall is a very remarka-
ble spot, lying deep in the mountain, whither from appearance it has
worn its way to the depth of half a mile back. On passing up the bed
of the stream, the banks rise almost perpendicularly, and are but a few
yards asunder when the foot of the fall is reached ; here the sun pene-
trates only for an hour at midday. This is a fit place for the legends
of the natives, and it is understood that it was intimately connected
with their mythology. This part of the island has now few inhabitants,
but from the appearance of the extensive taro-grounds, it is believed to
have been formerly densely populated.

The Koolaulo flat continues further, passing by Kaneohe to the east
end of the island, where the arable land decreases very much in
width.

The climate of Waialua, as I am informed by the Rev. Mr. Emer-
son, is rather cooler than that of Honolulu, and there is no annoyance
from dust. The thermometer ranges from 75° to 80°, and has not
fallen below 55° for several years, and rarely below 60°. The climate
is usually looked upon as healthy, except during the prevalence of the
northwest wind, which is found to affect injuriously those having pul-
monary complaints.

As to industry, the habits of the people are improving, which is dis-
cernible in their comparative willingness to labour for hire, and their
improvement in dress. Eight years before our visit, there were but
two persons who appeared at church in shirts or pantaloons: more
than one-half now wear these garments, and the women instead of
tapa for the most part wear cloth. Formerly a man laboured with
great reluctance later than two or three o'clock in the afternoon, and
rarely worked later for the chiefs or themselves ; at the time of our
visit they would do a full day's work, and this too without superinten-
dence. A little improvement is also manifested in their dwellings, a
few of which have been constructed of adobes, and whitewashed ; but
they for the most part pertinaciously adhere to the materials and mode
of building of their ancestors. Some, however, have enlarged their

KAUAIANDOAHU. 77

doors, as well as the size of the houses ; have paid some regard to
ventilation, and improved the quality of their sleeping-mats.

The slow progress of improvement in this district, is thought to have
been owing to the uncertain tenure of property; but as the new con-
stitution and laws provide for this, it will no longer be an impediment.

The schools in this district number eleven, which are taught by
native teachers, under the superintendence of the missionaries. The
number of children who attend them averages about four hundred,
which is about half the number in the district. The scholars are be-
tween four and sixteen years of age. Messrs. Emerson and Locke
are both of opinion, that the Hawaiian children are not inferior in
intellect or in aptitude for handicraft to other children having equal
advantages.

There is one church in the district, on whose first establishment,
seven years previous to our visit, it had five hundred and eighty-three
communicants ; of these eight have died, eighteen were dismissed to
join other churches, fifty-nine expelled for unchristian conduct, and
four hundred and ninety-eight are now connected with the church.
Most of the latter have a good degree of conscience, and some sense
of Christian obligation, whilst others, as might be expected, are appa-
rently little more than in name Christians.

From 1832 to 1839, there were four hundred and forty-five mar-
riages. There has been a register of the births and deaths kept for a
part of the time, which would go to show that the former was to the
latter as one to two. Some particular years seem to have varied
somewhat from this : in Waialua, forty-five births to one hundred
and thirty-six deaths. In another place the proportions were as
seven to seventeen ; and in a third, as two to eight, without any pre
vailing disease. In 1836, at Waialua, the births were thirty-four, the
deaths ninety ; in 1839, fifty-six to one hundred and eighty-five.

The population in 1832, at Waialua, was 2,640; in 1836, 2,415;
decrease in four years, 225.

From the great differences between the several places, without the
existence of any epidemic, one is led to believe that mistakes may
have been made in the register ; the general belief, however, is, that
the numbers that will represent the decrease most accurately, are the
above.

The causes of decrease in this district are supposed to be sterility
and abortion ; the latter is quite common, and instances are known
where women have had six or seven, and sometimes as many as ten,
in the same number of years, and no living children.

Infanticide has been practised to some extent, down to 1840. From

G2

78 KAUAIANDOAHU.

facts derived from the natives, it would appear that both personal and
mutual abuse at an early period of life between the sexes, holds a
prominent place among the causes of this decrease.

The law of marriage it is thought will have a wholesome influence.
Mr. Emerson has never heard of more than one instance where the
fear of punishment for the breach of the laws of chastity has produced
infanticide. The laws which formerly existed, requiring parents to
pay taxes for children over ten years of age, may have had that ten-
dency. It is ascertained that the repeal of this law, and the enactment
of the one now existing, which offers a premium for large families of
legitimate children, have induced many to take care of their offspring.
The law which compels unmarried women found to be enceinte to work
on the roads, may perhaps have had a tendency to cause the commis-
sion of this crime.

Intemperance has again made its appearance within a year in this
district, and the introduction of rum, brandy, &c., under the French
treaty, has had its effect upon the common people ; for although these
liquors are too dear for them to purchase, they will follow the fashion,
and in lieu of spirits use ava, or some a fermented drink made of pota-
toes, water-melons, or the ti : many bad consequences are the inevitable
result.

Messrs. Rich and Brackenridge, accompanied by Mr. Emerson,
made an excursion to reach the top of the Kaala range of mountains.
They were unfortunate in the selected day; for shortly after they
reached the mountain, it began to rain, which rendered climbing on
the narrow ridge very difficult. This was in some places not more
than two feet wide, about fifteen hundred feet high, almost perpendicu-
lar, and extremely dangerous from its becoming slippery with the wet.
The ridge became in a short time so narrow, that they were compelled
to go astride and hitch themselves along, until, as they thought, they
had attained the altitude of two thousand five hundred feet, when they
deemed it impossible to reach the top, and concluded to retrace their
steps. As they returned, they collected many interesting plants ;
among them a shrubby Viola, about two feet high, with a slightly
fragrant white flower; Exocarpus cupressiformis, the same as the
native cherry of New South Wales ; and near the base of the moun-
tain, forests of Erythrina monosperma (of Hooker), the wood of which
was used by the natives for making out-riggers for their canoes.

The next day they proceeded on their way to Honolulu, across the
plain between the two ranges of mountains. This plain, in the rainy
season, affords abundance of food for cattle in three or four kinds of
grasses, and is, as I have before remarked, susceptible of extensive

KAUAIANDOAHU. 79

cultivation by irrigation from the several streams that traverse it.
The largest of the streams is the Ewa. Scraggy bushes of sandal-
wood and other shrubs are now scattered over a soil fit for the culti-
vation of sugar-cane and indigo.

At Ewa they were kindly received by the Reverend Mr. Bishop
and lady, who have charge of the station. The district of Ewa com-
mences about seven miles to the west of Honolulu, and extends twenty
miles along the south shore, or from the hill in the vicinity of the salt
lake to beyond Laeloa or Barber's Point. There are no chiefs or
any persons of distinction residing in the district ; the people are
labourers or Kanakas, and the landholders reside near the king at
Lahaina, or at Honolulu. The taxes and occasional levies without any
outlay have hitherto kept them poor.

In this district is a large inlet of the sea, into which the river Ewa
empties; at the entrance of this inlet is the village of Laeloa: the
whole is known by the name of Pearl River or harbour, from the cir-
cumstance that the pearl oyster is found here ; and it is the only place
in these islands where it occurs.

The inlet has somewhat the appearance of a lagoon that has been
partly filled up by alluvial deposits. At the request of the king, we
made a survey of it: the depth of water at its mouth was found to
be only fifteen feet; but after passing this coral bar, which is four
hundred feet wide, the depth of water becomes ample for large ships,
and the basin is sufficiently extensive to accommodate any number of
vessels. If the water upon the bar should be deepened, which I doubt
not can be effected, it would afford the best and most capacious har-
bour in the Pacific. As yet there is no necessity for such an operation,
for the port of Honolulu is sufficient for all the present wants of the
islands, and the trade that frequents them.

Pearl-River Harbour affords an abundant supply of fine fish. Two
species of clams are procured here, called by the natives okupe and
olepe. Mr. Drayton, who went to Pearl River for the purpose of
examining its shores, and obtaining shells, reported that he found a
large bed of fossil oyster-shells, extending into the bank in a bed from
one to four feet wide, and half a mile in length : they were found
cemented together with soft limestone and a reddish sand, and were so
numerous that there was scarcely enough of the cement between to
hold them together. The dredging was unsuccessful, a small spotted
venus being the only shell that was obtained, although it was the
general belief, among both the foreign and native inhabitants, that it
would have produced an abundant reward for the trouble.

In Mrs. Bishop's garden was seen the Agati grandiflora, (which is a

80 KAUAIANDOAHU.

beautiful native plant, producing very large flowers in clusters, of a
deep orange, with a bright scarlet tint,) in full flower. Seeds of this
plant were obtained, and Mr. Brackenridge has succeeded in raising
plants of it in the conservatory at Washington. It will prove a valu-
able and highly ornamental addition to our green-houses.

This district, unlike others of the island, is watered by copious and
excellent springs, that gush out at the foot of the mountains. From
these run streams sufficient for working sugar-mills. In consequence
of this supply, the district never suffers from drought, and the taro-
patches are well supplied with water by the same means.

The soil on the sides of the hills is a hard red clay, deemed useless
except for pasturage. Here and there in the valleys passing through
these hills and in the low grounds, is found a soil capable of producing
all the varieties of tropical vegetation.

There is every indication that an elevation of the island has taken
place : the flat land is now fifty or sixty feet above the level of the
ocean, and the upper rock has the appearance of calcareous sandstone.
The latter lies on a bed of lava, part of which is above, but a greater
portion below the ocean level. There are above this rock and on the
plain behind some horizontal beds of sea-worn pebbles. It seems
remarkable, however, that although this upper rock will effervesce
with acids, yet all attempts that have been made to convert it into
lime have failed. It has been put into the same kiln with the present
reef coral, and while the latter produced good lime, the former came
out unchanged, — a pretty conclusive proof that it is not coral rock, as
it appeared to be. As this rock will be treated of in the Geological
Report, I shall refer the reader to it for further information.

At Ewa, Mr. Bishop has a large congregation. The village com-
prises about fifty houses, and the country around is dotted with them.
The village presents an appearance of health and cleanliness, clearly
indicating the influence Mr. Bishop has exerted over his flock, in
managing which he is much aided by his lady.

The church is a large adobe building, situated on the top of a small
hill, and will accommodate a great number of persons. Mr. Bishop
sometimes preaches to two thousand persons.

The natives have made some advance in the arts of civilized life ;
there is a sugar-mill which, in the season, makes two hundred pounds
of sugar a day. They have been taught, and many of them are now
able to make their own clothes, after the European pattern. There is
a native blacksmith and several native carpenters and masons, who
are able to work well.

In 1840, the church contained nine hundred members, seven hundred

KAUAIANDOAHU. 81

and sixty of whom belonged to Ewa, the remainder to Waianae; but
the Catholics have now established themselves at both these places, and
it is understood are drawing off many from their attendance on Mr.
Bishop's church. Schools are established, of which there are now
three for children under teachers from Lahainaluna. Mr. Bishop
informed me that there was great difficulty in procuring suitable
teachers, and a still greater difficulty in raising funds for their support.
The teachers complain much of their inability to secure a regular
attendance from their scholars, which is thought to result from a want
of parental authority at home, and their leaving it optional with the
children to attend school or not.

This district contained in 1840 two thousand seven hundred and
ninety-two inhabitants, and there is no satisfactory evidence of a
decrease, although many speak of it as being great; but the latter
opinion is formed from the census of 1836, which was on many
accounts inaccurate, and ought not to be taken as authority on which
to found such a statement.

This is the best part of the island of Oahu for raising cattle and
sheep, which are seen here in greater numbers than elsewhere.

Dr. Pickering and Mr. Brackenridge made a tour to Waianae, for
the purpose of examining more particularly the Kaala Mountains for
plants. Waianae lies on the southwest side of the range, and on the
sea-shore under it. After stopping a night at Ewa, they took a middle
route, and passing through a gap in the mountain, fifteen hundred
feet in elevation, reached Waianae in the afternoon, a distance of six-
teen miles. Here they were kindly welcomed by the chief, who acts
in the capacity of ruler, preacher, and schoolmaster; he is, likewise, a
fisherman, and a manufacturer of wooden bowls, in which he showed
himself quite expert.

The natives are much occupied in catching and drying fish, which
is made a profitable business, by taking them to Oahu, where they
command a ready sale.

The population is about fifteen hundred, one thousand of whom
belonged to the church under the superintendence of the Rev. Mr.
Bishop ; but since the establishment of the Catholics, one half have
joined in their mode of worship.

While at Waianae, they extended their walks in different directions,
along the beach, at the foot and sides of the mountains, meeting with
several very interesting plants : at the base of the mountains several
half deciduous trees, and bushes of sandalwood (Santalum freycinetia-
rum). It was observed that the stems of the trees and plants were

VOL. iv. 11

82 KAUAI AND OAHU.

very succulent, which enables them to withstand the severity of the
droughts ; the quantity of rain that falls here being very small.

They endeavoured to make an ascent on one of the ridges, but
found themselves obliged to give it up, when they had reached half
the altitude of the mountain.

Travelling here, they witnessed an economy of time that would
have been remarkable in any country. At a house, one of the natives
who accompanied them procured a chicken and some hot stones from
a fire ; he then tied them up together, and carried them along : when
they arrived at the next stopping-place, the chicken was produced
ready cooked !

On the plain behind the village, they found the Agati grandiflora
growing in a wild state ; the flowers were smaller and of a darker
orange than those seen cultivated.

They left Waianae after being two days with the chief, who
charged them four dollars for their lodging, which will give some
idea of native prices. Passing the mountain range by a different
route, their collections of plants were but little increased. A new
species of Morus, a singular plant belonging to the Violacea? family,
a Dracsena of robust growth, and a few ferns, were all that they
obtained.

Mauna Kaala has the appearance of being a flat-topped mountain ;
but this is not the case, the evenness of the ridge alone giving it that
appearance.

The salt lake, so much spoken of, was visited many times ; it has
excited a great deal of curiosity, being supposed to be fathomless, and
to ebb and flow with the tide.

I landed with my friend, Dr. Judd, of the mission, near the fool of
the hills which enclose the salt lake, and levelled from low-water
mark upwards, over the hill, and down to the lake. The result gave
one hundred and five feet rising, and one hundred and three feet
falling, which proves it to be on the same level as half-tide. Dr.
Judd engaged some natives to carry over a canoe to the lake, in
which we embarked, well provided with long sounding-lines, to ascer-
tain its reputed great depth; after much search, no fathomless hole
was to be found, and no greater depth than eighteen inches ! To find
out if it ebbed and flowed was the next step ; for this purpose, sticks
were placed on the shore, which is so shelving that a small perpen-
dicular rise and fall would be quite evident. There was no ti le
perceived after several hours' watching. A little rise above the tide-
sticks took place, but nothing beyond what would be occasioned by

KAUAIANDOAHU. 83

the wind, which had sprung up, blowing the water to the lee side.
Large quantities of salt were seen, piled in heaps on the hills to allow
it to drain : this is the property of the king, and yields him a con-
siderable annual income. It is considered as the best for salting pro-
visions, and therefore commands a higher price than other salt manu-
factured on the island ; it is also used as table-salt at Honolulu. In
the lake it is found crystallized, and crystals are readily formed on
branches of trees that have been put into the water.

The deposit in the lake is mud of a blue-black colour, and exceed-
ingly tenacious, almost as much so as an unctuous clay.

Some small particles of salt were found on the hill-side, adjacent to
the lake, which might lead to the inference that the soil was impreg-
nated with salt ; but the habit of the natives has been, from time imme-
morial, to carry the salt to the tops of the hills to drain, which will
readily account for its appearance there. The opinion, however, was
entertained by some that it proceeded from the soil. The lake is about
one-third of a mile in diameter, and has the appearance of having been
the basin of a crater. If this should be the case, it must necessarily be
admitted that there are two others in juxtaposition with it to the west,
with partition walls between ; the latter are not as distinct in their out-
line as the salt lake. All of them, however, appeared to me very dif-
ferent from the coast craters of the island. Within a short distance
inland from the salt lake, is a deep ravine or valley, that shows the for-
mation to be the compact limestone before spoken of, with the stratifi-
cation of pebbles, &c. All these appearances united, give me the idea
of the basin having been caused by an action different from that by
which craters are formed.

The lake, after the discovery relative to its being but knee-deep, was
the subject of much discussion at Honolulu. It was visited on several
occasions afterwards, to ascertain if it had an ebb and flow, and simul-
taneous observations were made at the shore and in the lake ; but all
the trials confirmed the first observations.

On the east end of the island are numerous caves, which Messrs.
Drayton and Dana visited : they are situated in a bluflf of three
hundred feet elevation, and the mouths of them are at about two-
thirds the height. Most of these caves are accessible by ascending
along the sides of the bluft' obliquely. The natives formerly used them
for the burial of their dead, and at times they are still so appropriated.
One was walled up, and a strong pole was lying against the rock,
which the natives said had been used to bring the body to the
place. In the centre of the wall which closed the mouth of the
tomb, was a piece of white tapa, the deposit of which in tombs is

84 KAUAIANDOAHU.

one of their ancient customs that is still adhered to on this side of the
island.

These caves are the effect of volcanic action, and were called by the
natives Kaualahu. Their guide having provided them with torches of
the tutui-nut, they ascended to one of them, two hundred feet above the
sea, where, having lighted the torches, they entered to the distance of
about one hundred feet. Here they found deposited a number of bones,
among which were only two skulls. On another side was a heap of
stones, covering more bones and some entire skeletons : to remove these
stones would have occupied more time than they had to spare, or than
their feeble lights would allow.

Taking up the two skulls, they returned to their guide's house.
Thence they made a visit to two hills, very near to the sea, called
Kaalau Pele and Kuamuakuai. These hills are composed of yellow
and brown sand, interspersed with pieces of lava, and have a resem-
blance in colour and shape to the Punchbowl Hill, back of Honolulu.

The height of the hill nearest the sea was estimated at five hundred
feet. At its base are several old craters, one of which is entirely in the
sea, and shows its perpendicular walls on the side next the hill.

There are also here extensive fish-ponds, belonging to the king, in
which the usual fish are kept — mullet.

There are also a number of ponds where the natives manufacture
large quantities of salt.

Kaneohe is the mission station for the north side of the island ; it is
in the district of Pali-Koolau, and includes the eastern part of the north
side of the island, about twenty-five miles in extent. Kaneohe is
situated in the centre of it, and lies just beneath the Pali, back of Oahu,
heretofore spoken of.

The harbour opposite to Kaneohe is called Waialai, and was sur-
veyed at the request of the king. At its entrance it was found to
have only nine feet of water, a depth too little except for the small ves-
sels of the island. This harbour is formed by the peninsula of Mokapu.

This district contains four thousand five hundred inhabitants, among
whom it was said that a decrease had taken place ; but as this asser-
tion seemed unsupported by any satisfactory evidence, it is not entitled
to much attention.

The productions of this district are the same as tht>se of the island
generally ; the natives seem to be directing their attention to the raising
of sugar and coffee, and being within a short distance of Honolulu,
they resort to it with their produce for a market. The climate is cooler
by a few degrees than that of the opposite or leeward sidcnf the island.
Frequent showers keep up a constant verdure.

KAUAIANDOAHU. 85

There are eleven schools in the district, which give instruction to
about five hundred children. The church has increased in four years
to two hundred members. Of marriages, there are about seventy
annually.

On the Gth of November, the Flying-Fish returned to Honolulu.
In the neighbourhood of Honolulu, there are a number of fish-ponds
belonging to the king, in which are bred several kinds of fish. There
are many other ponds belonging to individuals. The taro-patches are
used occasionally for this purpose, and not unfrequently are seen to
contain large fish ; thus poe and fish, their principal food, though of
such opposite natures, are raised together.

They have several modes of taking fish, with the net and hook, and
sometimes with poisonous herbs.

They likewise take shrimps and small fish by forming a sort of pen
in the soft mud, in one corner of which a net is placed ; the shrimps
and fish leap over the enclosure of the pen, which is gradually con-
tracted towards the net, which acts like a large seine.

The most conspicuous point about Oahu, is the noted crater on its
east end, called Lealu or Diamond Hill. This lies about four and a
half miles from Honolulu, and forms a very picturesque object from the
harbour. It is the largest coast-crater on the island, and was visited
by many of us. The rock, for the most part, consists of vesicular lava,
very rough and black. The ascent to it is somewhat difficult. On the
margin of the crater, calcareous incrustations are formed. It is quite
shallow, and between a half and a third of a mile in diameter. There
is no appearance of a lava-stream having issued from it. Its surface is
thickly strewn with lava-blocks, which were also found embedded in
the coral rock along the shore. The raised coral reef was also seen
here, where it is partially decomposed, so as to resemble chalk, and
had been quarried. This rock was found to contain fossils of recent
species.

At the foot of this hill, on the western side, are the remains of a
heiau or ancient temple. Certain ceremonies were performed on the
consecration of these temples, a description of which my friend Dr.
Judd obtained for me, from the best native authorities, and for which I
must refer the reader, who may be curious in such matters, to Appendix
III. The mode t>f building these structures, if so they may be called,
was for each of the inhabitants, both high and low, to bring stones by
hand. They are usually quadrangular. The one above noticed was
on the hill-side overlooking the plain lying towards Honolulu, on which
is the village or town of Waikiki.

Off the village of Waikiki there is an anchorage, and the reef
H

86 KAUAIANDOAHU.

between it and Honolulu is extensive. The natives derive great
advantage from this reef in the way of food.

Between Waikiki and Honolulu there is a vast collection of salt-
ponds, and I was greatly surprised to find the manufacture of it so
extensive. It is piled up in large heaps, in which there was, when I
saw them, from one to two hundred tons. The salt is now exported
to California, China, Oregon, Kamtschatka, and the Russian settlements
at Sitka. The natives use it for salting fish and pork, an art which it
is said they have long practised.

The women are also frequently seen collecting, in the salt-ponds,
Confervae and Fuci (sea-weed) for food.

The repairs of the squadron were, by the 10th of November, rapidly
drawing to a close. In examining the bottoms of the vessels we had
made use of a diving-dress of India-rubber with which we were pro-
vided. This apparatus excited a great deal of curiosity among the
natives and inhabitants of Honolulu. With it we succeeded in repair-
ing a few places in the copper that had been injured on those occasions
when we had struck.

On the 16th of November, the Porpoise being ready, sailed for
the Low Archipelago or Paumotu Group. The orders given on
this occasion to Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, will be found in
Appendix VII.

POE EATING.

CHAPTER III.

CONTENTS.

THE TENDER IS DESPATCHED TO HAWAII — THE PORPOISE SAILS ON A SEPARATE
CRUISE-PREPARATIONS FOR THE ASCENT OF MAUNA LOA— KEALAKEAKUA— NAPOLO
—FACE OF THE COUNTRY— ITS PRODUCTIONS — ITS CLIMATE— ITS IMPROVEMENTS-
ITS POPULATION — SCHOOLS — DISEASES — MONUMENT TO MARK WHERE COOK WAS
KILLED — DISTRICT OF KA1LAU — ITS CLIMATE — ITS POPULATION — DWELLINGS —
SCHOOLS— KUAKINI, OR GOVERNOR ADAMS-INDUSTRY OF THE NATIVES OF KAILAU
—TRADE— USEFUL ARTS-COTTON MANUFACTURE— VICES— DISEASES— MISSIONARIES-
PLANTS— EXCURSION OF THE NATURALISTS-TEMPLE OF KAILI— MOUNTAIN GEESE-
LAVA STREAMS— OLD CRATERS-GRAZING LANDS— ARRIVAL AT HILO AND RETURN
TO HONOLULU— PLAN FOR THE FURTHER OPERATIONS OF THE SQUADRON— PEACOCK
AND FLYING-FfeH-CASE OF GIDEON SMITH— CASE OF CAPTAIN DOWSETT— PROPOSED
EMPLOYMENT OF THE VINCENNES— SAILING OF THE PEACOCK AND TENDER.

(87)

CHAPTER III.

HAWAII AND OAHU.

(

1840.

SHORTLY after our arrival, orders were given to be ready for sea by
the llth of November, at which time it was my desire that we should
again be on active duty. Finding, after the return of the tender from
Kauai, that the Vincennes and Peacock would necessarily be detained
beyond this time to complete their repairs, and wishing to afford the
naturalists belonging to the Peacock an opportunity of visiting Hawaii,
I gave Messrs. Peale, Rich, and Dana orders to rejoin the tender on
the 10th of November. I also gave Mr. Knox instructions to proceed
direct to Kealakeakna Bay, to land them there, and to be again ready
to receive them in a week afterwards at Hilo Bay, on the opposite side
of the island. The party would thus be enabled to cross the island,
which I had no hopes of being able to accomplish with the naturalists
attached to the Vincennes, as I believed we should all have enough to
occupy us fully in the contemplated trip to the top of the mountain, and
the examination of the volcanic eruptions. On the same evening at 10
r. M., they went to sea, sweeping out of the harbour, and proceeding on
their trip.

In the mean time our preparations for duty were actively progress-
ing. The Porpoise sailed on the 16th of November, under orders for
the Paumotu Group.

Preparations were making on board the Vincennes for our trip to
the mountain. Dr. Judd, of the mission, at my solicitation, consented
to accompany me, as did also Mr. Brinsmade, our consul. The
former kindly offered to take all the preliminary steps in reference
to the arrangements with the natives, and to procure suitable travelling
equipments, in the shape of large calabashes, &c. These last are

VOL. iv. H2 12 <«)

90 HAWAII AND OAHU.

deemed on these islands a most necessary appendage for travelling,
and are admirably adapted for the purpose, being exceedingly light
and having great capacity. When in the care of a native, although
extremely fragile, they are quite secure ; they are surrounded by a
net made of fine twine or sennit of the cocoa-nut.

To the forethought of Dr. Judd, and his judicious preparations, I
feel that much of our success is owing in overcoming many of the
difficulties that \ve met with.

Finding that both the new launches could not be finished in the
prescribed time, arrangements were made to complete the one intended
for the Peacock, and to defer the finishing of that belonging to the
Vincennes until our contemplated return in April ; for I deemed that
the old one, although ill adapted to our wants, would answer all that
we absolutely required of her previous to that time.

On the 24th, all were ordered to join the ships. The tender,
agreeably to her orders, returned on the 28th, and the launch of the
Peacock being ready, was taken on board on the 29th of November.

Before taking up the cruises of the ships, however, I shall give an
account of the tender's trip to Hawaii.

The naturalists were accompanied by Mr. Hall, a gentleman
attached to the mission, who kindly volunteered to attend them, and
to whom they were much indebted for his great usefulness, both as in-
terpreter, and for the knowledge he possessed of the country. They
had, besides, two or three natives who spoke English tolerably well.

They were detained by cairns and light winds, so that they did not
reach the bay of Kealakeakna until ten o'clock at night, when, having
obtained the guidance of some fishermen, they anchored in the dark.

This bay derives its name (path of the gods) from a slide in the hill,
which is still visible, which the gods are said to have used in order to
cross the bay quickly. It is of no great extent, and opens between two
low and barren hills, on each of which a town is situated.

Between them a high perpendicular bluff rises directly from the
water, in which are seen numerous caves: in these the natives formerly
buried their dead, and still use occasionally for the same purpose.
These caves appear inaccessible, and are the resort of vast numbers
of birds.

On the 14th (Saturday), they landed at Napolo, and were kindly
received by Mr. Forbes, the resident missionary for the district of
Kealakeakua. They were greatly disappointed when they foun 1 it
would be impossible to proceed on their tour that day, and that their
departure would have to be deferred until Monday, as it would b*
impossible to prepare the food necessary for the journey in a day

HAWAII A NDOAHU. 91

and the next being Sunday, no natives could be persuaded to travel
until Monday. On the nights of their stay with Mr. Forbes, they
distinctly saw the heavens lighted up by the fires of the volcano of
Kilauea Pele, although at the distance of forty miles. This mission
station is on the west side of Hawaii, and on the south side of the bay
of Kealakeakua.

Almost the whole coast of this district, extending forty miles, is one
line of lava. This frequently lies in large masses for miles in extent,
and is in other places partially broken, exhibiting perpendicular cliffs,
against which the sea dashes with fury. This formation extends half
a mile into the interior, and as the distance from the sea increases, the
soil becomes richer and more productive. The face of the country,
even within this rocky barrier, is rough and covered with blocks and
beds of lava, more or less decomposed. The land in places reaches
the altitude of two thousand feet, and at a distance of two miles from
the coast begins to be well covered with woods of various kinds of
trees, which are rendered almost impassable by an undergrowth of
vines and ferns. In these woods there are many cleared spots, which
have the appearance of having been formerly cultivated, or having
been burnt by the descending streams of lava. In some places, these
strips of wood descend to within a mile of the shore, having escaped
destruction. These are in no place parallel to the shore, but lie always
in the direction which the streams of lava would take in descending
from the mountains.

Cultivation is carried on in many places where it would be deemed
almost impracticable in any other country. There are, indeed, few
places where a plough could be used in this district, although there is
a strip of good land from three to five miles wide, having the barren
lava-coast on one side and the forest on the other. This strip pro-
duces, luxuriantly, whatever is planted on it, the soil being formed of
decomposed lava, mixed with vegetable matter. The natives, during
the rainy season, also plant, in excavations among the lava rocks,
sweet-potatoes, melons, and pine-apples, all of which produce a crop.
They have little inducement to raise any thing more than for their
immediate wants, as there is no market, except one of limited extent
at Kailau, which is fifteen miles distant. Two or three whale-ships
touch here during the year, and take in a few provisions and wood, but
this is not a sufficient stimulus to induce exertions on the part of the
natives to cultivate the soil, or to produce industrious habits.

The only staple commodities are sweet-potatoes, upland taro, and
yams. The latter are almost entirely raised for ships. Sugar-cane,
bananas, pine-apples, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and melons, are also cul-

92 HAWAIIANDOAHU.

tivated. The Irish potato, Indian corn, beans, coffee, cotton, figs,
oranges, guavas, and grapes, have been introduced, and might be
successfully cultivated, if there was any demand for them.

The climate is mild throughout the district. The thermometer
ranges between 62° and 76° in the winter, and from 70° to 86° in the
summer, and seldom above 86° or below 62° ; this, it will be remem-
bered, is on the lee side of the island. They seldom have strong
winds ; and in the day they enjoy a cool sea-breeze, which changes to
the land-breeze at night.

From May to September is the wet or rainy season, when they
experience a good deal of rain; and this is also the growing season.

In December, January, and February, they have usually very dry
weather, and the winds prevail from the north, from which quarter it
sometimes blows fresh.

The natives are better off here than could have been expected, and
some of their houses are large and airy. The chiefs set a good
example in this respect. Kapiolani, one of the chief women, has a very
comfortable two-story stone dwelling. They have also built a stone
church, one hundred and twenty-five feet long by sixty feet wide.

Good paths for horses have been made throughout the district, with
much labour. An evident improvement has taken place in the habits
of the females, who nave been taught the use of the needle, and other
feminine employments. Kapiolani has been very assiduous in intro-
ducing improvements, and she has caused to be erected a sugar-mill,
to introduce the manufacture of sugar, and make it an object for the
people to raise the cane.

Our gentlemen, during their detention, crossed over to the north
shore of the bay of Kealakeakua, to visit the place were Captain Cook
was killed. The natives pointed out the spot where he fell, which was
on a rock, the most convenient for landing of any in the vicinity, as it
is somewhat protected from the swell by a point of lava rocks. Within
a few yards there is a stump of a cocoa-nut tree, at the foot of which
he is said to have breathed his last. The top of this tree had been
cut off and carried to England by H. B. M. ship Imogene. It is now
treasured up in the museum of the Greenwich Hospital, which I cannot
but feel was an appropriate disposition of it, calculated to recall his
memory to the minds of ihe thousands who view it, and inspire in
them the feeling of proper pride, in finding that the country appreciates
so remote an emblem of their distinguished countryman. If any thing
is capable of inspiring ambition to exertion in deeds of valour or of
usefulness, such things must assuredly have that effect. The drawing
of the stump of this tree, is from a sketch made by Mr. Peale, who

HAWAIIANDOAHU. 93

remarks that this monument will last as long as the rock on which
Cook stood when first wounded, as every one who visits the place
breaks fragments from the latter.

"

CAPTAIN COOK'S MONUMENT.

The following is the inscription on it :

NEAR THIS SPOT
FELL

CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, R. N.,

THE
RENOWNED CIRCUMNAVIGATOR,

WHO

DISCOVERED THESE ISLANDS,
A. D. 1778.

HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP

IMOGENE,
OCTOBER 17TH, 1837.

THIS SHEET OF COPPER AND CAP PUT ON BY SPARROWHAWK,

SEPTEMBER 13TH, 1839,
IN ORDER TO PRESERVE THIS MONUMENT TO THE MEMORY OF COOK.

I could have wished that the first inscription, relating solely to Cook,
was the only one ; the other, it seems to me, was not worthy of being
associated with any thing connected with so great a name; and good
taste and proper feeiing I think would have shrunk from inscribing it
as well as the following on another part, " Give this a coat of tar."

The inhabitants of this district are nine thousand. The marriages
are about one hundred yearly. The population is thought to be de-
creasing, but this is assuming as correct the former census, which I

94 HAWAII A NDOAHU.

have (before said is not to be relied on. The grounds on which this
decrease has been supposed to exist were, that it was found that of
fifty-six mothers, taking old and young promiscuously, were born two
hundred and sixty-seven children, of whom one hundred and twenty-
nine, are living, one hundred and twenty-five died very young, mostly
under the age of two years, and thirteen at ages beyond ten years. It
is thought by Mr. Forbes, that this proportion of deaths would hold
good through the district. One thing seems certain however, that they
do not all die from hereditary diseases; many are carried off by
diarrhoea, occasioned by improper diet, and a few are stillborn. There
has also been much emigration from this district to others, and many
have embarked as sailors on board whale-ships. The laws under
which they formerly lived, have caused them to be improvident.
They have frequently suffered from want of food ; and not unfre-
quently they are obliged to work without either good water or suffi-
cient nutriment.

From all accounts, cases of infanticide are rare, nor, as we have
before observed, is it thought that the law prohibiting illicit intercourse
has had a tendency to increase it. One of the causes which formerly
made it frequent, was the husband leaving his wife for another woman,
which invariably led to her destroying the child.

As respects intemperance, there has been no native seen intoxicated
for several years.

There are twenty-three schools, one of which is kept by the mis-
sionaries, and the others by natives, some of whom have been educated
at the high-school at Lahaina. The number of scholars is between
seven and eight hundred.

The principal diseases are those of a scorbutic character, cutaneous
eruptions, remittent fevers, catarrhs, and inflammation of the viscera;
these are the most fatal. Diarrhoea, dysentery, and ophthalmia also
prevail to some extent.

The southwest side of Hawaii is termed the district of Kona, and
includes Kealakeakua and Kailau. Having already spoken of the
former, I shall now refer to the latter; more especially as from all
accounts I heard of it, the natives are more advanced in the useful
arts than elsewhere, and are now less dependent on foreigners.

The town of Kailau is the residence of Kuakini, better known
among foreigners by the name of Governor Adams, who is governor
of Hawaii.

This district lies to the north of Kealakeakua, and begins about five
miles from Napolo. It is similar to it in character, but the lava is of
more recent formation, the eruptions from Hualalai having flowed down

HAWAII AND OAHU. 95

and covered nearly the whole northern portion. This eruption hap-
pened about thirty years since, in 1809 and 1810. Hualalai is between
seven and eight thousand feet in height, and rises abruptly on its west
side.

Rain seldom falls on the coast, except in showers, and a rainy day
once in the year is looked upon as something remarkable. This,
together with the absence of all dew, prevents the existence of much
cultivation ; it affords, nevertheless, a coarse vegetation, sufficient to
pasture a few hundred goats; but, a mile back from the shore, the sur-
face is covered with herbage, which maintains cattle, &c. ; and two
miles in the interior there is sufficient moisture to keep up a constant
verdure.

Here, in a belt half a mile wide, the bread-fruit is met with in
abundance, and above this the taro is cultivated with success. At an
elevation of between two and three thousand feet, and at the dis-
tance of five miles, the forest is first met with. The trees of this are
suitable for building timber, and boards and shingles are made of them.
The products of this portion of Kona are the same as before de-
scribed.

The prevailing winds are the land and sea breezes, which are very
regular ; there are likewise strong north winds, but the most severe
gales are those from the southwest, which the natives term kona ;
these last from a few hours to two and even three days, and are fol-
lowed by rain: they are seldom strong enough to injure the houses.

Here the temperature is very mild and equable. During the winter
the thermometer ranges, at sunrise, from 64° to 78° F. ; at midday, 76°
to 85° ; at sunset, 70° to 80°. In summer the range is 68° to 80° at
sunrise; at midday, 78° to 86°; and at sunset, 72° to 81°. I have not
been able to get. any data for the amount of rain that falls.

The population in 1839 was 5,943, which was only fourteen less
than in 1835. It is the opinion of the missionaries that the population
is not decreasing by death, and it is thought that any apparent de-
crease is owing to removals, or if not to this cause, perhaps to an error
in the census. The register of births and deaths for nine months, in
1839, would seem to confirm this, there being one hundred and twenty-
three births and ninety-one deaths, or thirty-two in favour of the
former.

The result of the inquiries of Dr. Andrews, the resident physician,
shows a great mortality among the children. Out of ninety-six married
females, nearly all under forty-five years of age, twenty-three had no
children ; the remaining seventy-three had two hundred and ninety-
nine, of which one hundred and fifty-two did not survive the second

96 HAWAII AND O A H U.

year ; a large proportion of them died at from six to ten months old ;
six died between two and ten years, and fourteen died when over tea
years old.

The dwellings of the natives are a little improved, and Governor
Adams has the best-built stone house in the Hawaiian Islands. He has
also a cotton factory constructed of stone, and by his influence there
has been erected a large stone church and a school-house. He also
gives much attention to the schools, and has twenty-three in his dis-
trict for adult scholars, who are six or seven hundred in number ; and
thirteen for children, with about five hundred pupils : all of these are
taught by natives. To these is to be added a school for girls, taught by
the ladies of the mission, numbering fifty-five scholars.

Governor Adams, like all individuals of his class who are desirous of
improving his countrymen, is represented by the low foreigners to be
of a miserly and grasping disposition, and they say that he has ac-
quired large stores of wealth, which he hoards up. He is certainly
much respected by all those not engaged in trade, and spoken highly
of by the natives over whom he rules. He is admitted, however, by
both foreigners and natives, to be one of the most shrewd and intelli-
gent of the nation, and desirous of turning all things to account, com-
peting even with foreigners. I had not the pleasure of meeting with
him, of which I was desirous ; for, owing to our unexpected detention
at Oahu, we did not reach Hilo so soon as we had intended, and he
was obliged to return to his home on the opposite side of the island.
Being a man of large dimensions, as the chiefs usually are, he \vas
deterred from performing so toilsome a journey again during our
stay.

The industry which prevails in his own particular district certainly
shows uncommon exertion on the part of some one ; and the fact that
the natives are better clad, and more inclined to steady employment
when they have no markets for the sale of their produce, speaks much
in their favour. Any branch of industry that is likely to produce
profit, and that will yield them the means of procuring clothing, is en-
gaged in with avidity.

There is only one store, where sandalwood, tutui-nuts, beans, corn,
palm-leaf hats, and mustard-seed, are exchanged for goods. Corn
(maize) is becoming quite an extensive article of commerce, and
its cultivation is rapidly extending; cotton is likewise attended to.
There is, indeed, little doubt, but that this people, under proper JH-
couragement, will become industrious and prosperous.

A considerable trade is kept up between the south and north end
of this district. The inhabitants of the barren portion of the latter

H A W A I I A N D O A H U. 97

are principally occupied in fishing and the manufacture of salt, which
articles are bartered with those who live in the more fertile regions of
the south, for food and clothing.

Some knowledge of the arts has been acquired, and the mass of
the people manifest much ingenuity in the manufacture of various
articles for convenience and comfort. A few have shown some skill
in carpentry, having acquired this knowledge entirely by looking on
and practising. Some have in the same way acquired the art of
laying stone; and the large house of Governor Adams, heretofore
spoken of, was entirely built by natives, under the superintendence of
a foreigner. Others have been entirely erected by native workmen.
Some have also become blacksmiths, and comb-makers, and a large
number of native women are employed in making palm-leaf hats,
•which are of good quality.

Governor Adams intends that his cotton manufactures shall super-
sede European goods. Such undertakings cannot but excite interest
in all who are looking to the general improvement and civilization of
the islands of Polynesia. Like all first attempts at manufacturing, it
•was attended with difficulties; and as it may possess interest with
some, I will give an account of its progress.

In 1837 an edifice of stone was erected, using mud instead of lime-
mortar, for the proposed works, thirty by sixty feet, with a thatched
roof, and well lighted with glazed windows. About twenty wheels
were made by natives, after a model furnished by a foreign carpenter,
except the wheel-heads, which were of American manufacture. A
small Chinese gin was employed to free the cotton of the seeds, only
a trifle better than using the fingers; the cards were imported from
the United States. Thus prepared, the work went into operation on
the 1st of January, 1838.

Three females, who had made a tolerable proficiency in the art of
spinning, and had been taught by the American missionaries residing
at Maui, were procured as teachers. Under these, thirty women and
girls, from ten to forty years of age, began spinning; they soon equalled
their teachers, and many of the younger ones excelled them.

Two looms and other necessarv apparatus were next procured, and
also a foreigner to teach the use of them. He was engaged for several
months in the establishment, during which time he had under his in-
struction four young men, with whom he wove several pieces of brown
stripes and plaids, plain and twilled cotton cloth. After this time, the
natives were able to prepare and weave independently of his aid.
Becoming dissatisfied, however, all left the work, together with the
foreigner ; but after some time they were induced to return to their

VOL. iv. l 13

98 H A W A I I A N D O A H U.

work. This small establishment has ever since been kept up entirely
by the natives. It is succeeding with this aid alone, and is probably
the only one of the kind in Polynesia.

In this district, no cases of intoxication had been seen for some
years prior to the French treaty; but since that time, an American
resident at Honolulu has introduced spirituous liquors, by which a
number of natives have been once more led back to this vice.

No cases of infanticide have been heard of here.

The acute diseases which prevail in Kailau, are inflammation of
the lungs, pleura, and peritoneum ; but these are not frequent. Acute
inflammation of the eyes is common, but generally yields readily to
medical treatment. Fevers of the synochus type are common ; typhus
is rare, if it ever occur. Chronic inflammation of the eyes, accom-
panied by opacity of the cornea, is of frequent occurrence; as are
also asthma, diarrhosa, cutaneous eruptions, and ulcers. Paralysis
and mania are frequent; gonorrhoea is met with, but few cases of
recent syphilis. The mumps spread extensively during the summer of
1839; in some cases, owing to want of care and exposure, it was
severe, but was more generally mild.

In this district, the Reverend Mr. Thurston has been settled as
missionary since the year 1823, and is assisted by Dr. Seth Andrews,
to whom I feel much indebted for useful information.

Mr. Rich found but few plants among the decomposed scoria;
among them he notices Copaiva, Plumbago zeylanica, Boerhaavia,
several Convolvuli and Sidas, with a few grasses and some lichens.
Copaiva and Plumbago, are two of the most powerful remedies in the
native materia medica. The Sidas are used for making liis for the
women.

The ground has the appearance of having been once more exten-
sively cultivated than it is at present. The trees were Artocarpus,
Aleurites, Eugenia, and Broussonetia, all of which furnish both food
and clothing, and have been brought here at some former time from
other regions.

On Monday, our gentlemen formed themselves into two parties, and
started on horseback for their journey. One party consisted of Messrs.
Peale, Rich, and Hall, with eight Kanakas and two guides ; Mr. Dana
and Midshipman Hudson, with Kanakas and guides, formed the other,
which took the route along the sea-shore towards the south, well pro-
vided with provisions, and a supply of various articles for their journey ;
Mrs. Forbes, with great kindness, having added many things for their
comfort, which they duly appreciated.

On their way from the coast, they in a short time came to a very

HAWAII AND OAHU. 99

fertile district, with luxuriant sugar-cane, taro, &c., and good houses.
The taro here is cultivated without water ; but in order to retain the
moisture and protect the plant from the sun, it was observed that they
used fern-leaves to secure and shield the roots. The taro, thus culti-
vated, attains a much larger size and is superior to that which is grown
in water, being more dry and mealy. The houses of this district are
much better also, although the natives, for the most part, reside at the
sea-shore, to enjoy fishing and bathing.

In their day's jaunt they passed some wooded land, the trees of
which consisted of koa (Acacia), Edwardsia chrysophylla (which is
used for fuel), Dodona?a, &c. Plants of wild raspberry and strawberry
were seen, — the fruits of both now out of season ; the former, however,
yet showed some of its blossoms, like small roses. The most remark-
able plant was a species of dock, with large clusters of crimson flowers,
which runs up the branches of dead trees to the height of twenty or
thirty feet. These woods abounded with birds, several of which Mr.
Peale shot ; among them a crow, called by the natives Alala, and a
muscicapa called Elepaio, — formerly worshipped as the god of canoe-
makers. Before reaching their camping-place, they stopped to fill their
calabashes with water, as they did not expect to find any of that
necessary article for the next few days. On the edge of the last timber,
at the elevation of two thousand feet, they encamped. Here they found
excellent pasture for their horses among the ferns, a great abundance
of which had been met with on both sides of the path, and were from
four to five feet in height.

At night, the temperature fell to 48°, which was thirty degrees less
than they had left it on the coast ; and it was cold enough to sleep
under two blankets.

The next day they arose at sunrise, when Mr. Hall and the natives,
as they did regularly every morning during the journey, prayed and
sang a hymn, before setting out. They soon passed beyond the woods,
and entered a country of barren appearance, composed of hard solid
lavas, in the crevices of which were found several shrubby Geraniums,
Vacciniums, Daphnes, numerous Compositse of a stiff' rigid character,
and some small ohea bushes, — a kind of sweet whortleberry.

On their route, many deep caverns were observed under the lava.
The signs of wild cattle and dogs were frequent: the latter seek shelter
in these caves. The cattle are now rapidly on the increase, there being
a prohibition against killing them until a certain number of years have
passed.

After a day's travel, they reached the site of the ancient temple of
Kaili. These ruins lie about equally distant from three mountains, Mauna

100 HAWAII AND OAHU.

Kea, Manna Loa, and Hualalai. This temple is said to have been
built by Umi, \vho, with his wife Papa, is supposed to have inhabited
it, when he was king of the island. The three northern pyramids
forming the front were originally erected by Umi, to represent the dis-
tricts of the island he then governed; and as he conquered other dis-
tricts, he obliged each of them to build a pyramid on the side of the
temple.

This temple is represented in the adjoining plate. The main building
A, is ninety-two feet long, by seventy-one feet ten inches wide ; the
walls are six feet nine inches high, seven feet thick at the top, and
nearly perpendicular ; the partition walls are three feet high : B and c
are said to have been pedestals for idols ; D, E, and F, are the pyramids
built by Umi, eighteen feet high ; G is the residence of Kaili's wife,
Papa, also built by Umi.

The five remaining pyramids, H, i, j, K, L, are those erected by the
conquered districts. All these are built of compact blocks of lava, laid
without cement.

The building is said to have formerly been covered with idols, and
offerings were required to be brought from a great distance, consisting
generally of provisions. There are now no traces left of these idols.
The situation of the temple is at an elevation of five thousand feet
above the sea.

They proceeded a few miles beyond this point with their horses, but
found the ground, consisting of broken lava and scoria, too rough for
them. They therefore put them in charge of three little boys, to take
them back to Kealakeakua Bay.

Mr. Peale shot two of the mountain geese peculiar to this part of
the island ; they are remarkably fine birds, and live entirely upon
berries. In their route this day they passed several caves, which the
natives were said to have inhabited while collecting sandalwood on
the mountains for the chiefs. The walking now became extremely
fatiguing, over vast piles of scoria, thrown up in loose heaps. There
was no vegetation except a few small trees of Metrosideros, scattered
here and there, and whortleberries. The heaps of scoria were to ap-
pearance like those from some huge foundry.

On the 18th, they resumed their journey at an early hour, passing
in a direction towards Mauna Kea, over many rough ridges of the old
lava streams, that were found from a quarter of a mile to a mile in
width. One in particular, that pursued a northwest direction, thrir
guides informed them was forty miles in length, and had flowed down
towards the centre of the island. It had not a particle of vegetation on
it; not even a lichen was to be seen. The lava of this stream is broken

HAWAII AND OAHU. 101

up into pieces of all sorts of shapes and sizes, weighing from a pound
to many tons. Mr. Peale remarks, that the whole mass looked so
flesh, that it appeared as though it ought to burn the feet of the
passing traveller — and yet this eruption took place anterior to native
tradition.

One of the native guides, Kimo, gave out here from fatigue, and
after sharing his load they left him to follow.

They next passed two old craters covered with bushes and grass, at
whose base was a fresh-looking stream of glassy lava. The first crater
was in many respects like an old stone quarry, though on a gigantic
scale : the rocks were broken up, and thrown about in great confusion;
one side of the wall appeared as though it had been blown out, and
strewed on the plain beneath ; the sides that were left were nearly per-
pendicular, and presented distinct layers. Many plants were growing
in the crevices.

The second crater was of a regular conical shape, both within and
without, the interior being an inverted cone. Although the interior
presented this great regularity, yet its sides were apparently composed
of large blocks of lava, thrown out from its bottom, and lodged on its
sides one above the other.

They encamped at the foot of a very old crater, now covered with
trees of Edwardsia and Acacia, where they found water. The natives
sought out one of the lava caves, as a protection against the cold and
misty wind. Kimo again joined them at dark.

Although the next day they had fine weather and clear sunshine, yet
they could see the rain falling from the clouds on the route before them.
This rain they experienced shortly afterwards, and were obliged to
travel through a driving mist all day, with a very chilly atmosphere.
The natives complained so much of cold, that the party were induced
to stop, light a fire, and give them some provisions, which had now
become rather scarce. Seeing abundant signs of wild cattle, and hear-
ing the sound of a distant gun, one of the guides went off* to the haunts
of the cattle-hunters in the neighbourhood, and shortly after returned
with a supply of jerked beef.

Their route lay next through some very good grazing ground ; and
large herds of cattle find subsistence here, which are killed for the
hides. Bones were lying in all directions. There is also some very
good arable land, covered with large grass.

This part of the island would make valuable grazing farms, for

there is a sufficiency of soil to support them, and wood to build with,

though scarcely enough of the latter article for fuel. The loose scoria

would make excellent fences, as the cattle can with difficulty be driven

12

102

HAWAII AND OAHU.

over it. The distance from the coast and the want of roads, howevei,
•would interpose many obstacles to its settlement ; and the climate, so
unlike what the natives are accustomed to on the coast, would probably
prevent their services from being obtained.

The next morning they perceived that the tops of both Mauna Kea
and Mauna Loa were covered with snow, which, however, disappeared
by ten o'clock. They now took a southerly course, crossing ovei
many ancient beds of lava much decomposed, and now covered with
vegetation. The trees were the koa (Acacia), Edvvardsia, and
Dodona3a. They now first met the curious Composite mentioned by
Douglass, and named by Dr. Hooker, Argyrophyton Douglassii; it
•was seen about eight feet in height, covered with a silver pubescence,
which gives it a beautiful appearance. They found many pools of
water in the lava. They had crossed over the flank of Mauna Loa,
and supposed themselves to be about two-thirds of the way up towards
its summit.

The temperature at night fell to 40°.

The beautiful columnar cloud of the volcano of Kilauea, which is
always seen to hang over the crater, both by day and by night, was
now in full view.

The next day they were on their route early, and passed some rich
grazing country, with the grass full four feet high. From all appear-
ances, these parts are not visited by cattle. There were many trees of
koa (Acacia), Edwardsia, &c., as before. A fog coming on, they lost
their way, and were obliged to retrace their steps. Our gentlemen,
having their pocket-compasses, now took the lead, to the no small as-
tonishment of their guides, that they could, in a thick fog, direct the
way through places they had never visited before. Kimo, their Oahu
guide, again gave out, and was left to follow ; and as he did not come
up as soon as he was expected, the guides and natives set out, in a
praiseworthy manner, to hunt him up, although they were all more or
less lamed by crossing over the rough lava during the day. They soon
succeeded in finding him, and returned to the camp.

On the 22d, they reached the volcano, and considered themselves
amply repaid for the rough travelling they had gone through for six
days previously. As I shall have occasion to speak more fully of this
portion of the island, with its many craters and its volcanic action, I
shall defer the account of it for the present.

Our gentlemen now set out for Hilo, where they arrived the day
after, having travelled a distance of one hundred and fifty miles. Here
they again embarked on board the Flying-Fish, which sailed for Oahu,
and reached Honolulu on the 28th of November.

HAWAII AND OAHU. 103

The squadron was now on the eve of sailing, having on board stores
and provisions for a long cruise. As this winter's cruising was par-
ticularly intended to examine the portion of ocean that was not in-
cluded in my instructions, I shall, before narrating the details of the
proceedings of the squadron, give, in a general view, the intended ope-
rations.

The movements of the squadron were, at this time, particularly
directed to the examination of parts of the ocean possessing great
interest in their connexion with that important branch of national in-
dustry, the whale-fishery; and the course I proposed to adopt will be
understood from the following statement of the objects I now had in
view.

The Porpoise, as before remarked, had been sent towards the Pau-
motu Group, or Dangerous Archipelago, lying to the eastward of
Tahiti, to examine some islands that were reported as doubtful, and
others whose positions were not well ascertained. She was also to
leave a party on one of them, to bore through the coral rock, the Ex-
pedition having been provided with an apparatus for that purpose.
Thence she was to proceed to Tahiti, and from Tahiti towards Pen-
rhyn and Flint's Island ; and return to Oahu by the end of March,
1841. The Porpoise sailed, as has been stated, on the IGth of Novem-
ber, 1840.

The Peacock, with the Flying-Fish as tender, I designed should visit
and examine the location of several of the doubtful islands, passing
along, the magnetic equator westward from the meridian of 160° W. ;
thence to a small group of islands in longitude 174° W., which I had
partly examined in the Vincennes, and had found some new islands
among them; these I had called the Pho?.nix Group. Thence the Pea-
cock was to proceed to search for the Gente Hermosas of Quiros, or
the islands reported to me at Upolu, when I was there in 1839, as ex-
isting to the northeast ; thence to Upolu, to re-survey the south side of
the island, not having been able to satisfy myself with the former sur-
vey of it ; at the same time directing Captain Hudson to inquire into
the late murder of an American seaman, of which I had received infor-
mation from our consul, Mr. Williams.

Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold had, as before stated, made a de-
mand for the murderer, but the chiefs had refused to comply with the
treaty. The circumstances of the murder of Gideon Smith, as given
by affidavits made before the consul, (which will be found in Appendix
XX., Vol. III.,) are as follows.

Gideon Smith was a native of Bath, Massachusetts. He belonged
to the whale-ship Harold, of Dorchester, Massachusetts, but left her on

104 HAWAII AND OAIIU.

touching at the island of Upolu, about the 1st of May, and went to live
with a chief, Palasi by name, in the village of Fatua. Here he took a
wife, belonging to this chief's family. It appears, that after a few
weeks the family did not use him well, and were desirous of getting rid
of him, but wished to retain a monkey-jacket belonging to him. For
this purpose they got possession of the jacket, and took his wife away
from him. After the third night, it appears that Smith left the house,
taking with him three axes, five fathoms of cloth, a shawl, and tapa, in
payment for his jacket, or until it should be given up to him. The
next day, it appears that Palasi and his wife came in search of Smith ;
and, on hearing that the articles were in possession of one of his ac-
quaintances by the name of Maitland, they told him to keep the articles,
for all that thev wanted was their white man. Smith refused to re-

w

turn, and said that all he desired was his jacket, which was soon after
brought, and then the articles were returned. Smith was advised not
to walk about, or leave the village after dark, until the chiefs anger
was over: but he appears not to have heeded this advice, having gone
to Murivai, part of the town of Saluafala, and after dark went out, for
the purpose of going to a house about three hundred yards distant.
The moon was full, and it was quite light. About half an hour after
he set out, a native inquired for Smith, and said that he had stepped in
something that was in the path, which was not water, but felt like
blood. The alarm was immediately given, and, on search being made,
the body of Smith was found, with a cut on the right side of the neck,
which had nearly severed the head from the body, another on the left
side, a deep wound with an axe on the breast, and one on the head.

Suspicion at once rested upon Vave, alias Tagi, Palasi's brother,
who was heard inquiring for Smith, having an axe in his hand at the
time. This man was examined before the consul, and when asked if
he had murdered the white man, said " Yes." On being asked the
reason, he said, " Because his heart was pained with his theft." Being
further questioned, as to the circumstances, he said, " That when
Smith first landed, he came to him with another white man, to procure
a wife, offering an American axe and jacket as a reward or purchase
for her. After a few days Smith wished to change his lodgings, and
live with another man by the name of Maitland, taking his wife with
him. The day after, a report reached the family that the girl had
cried all night, and that Smith had hurt her. They returned and lived
a short time together at her house, after which Smith again left it,
•with the articles. These, Tagi said, had been all returned except a
siapo belonging to the girl. The failure to return the latter caused
them to be very angry, and he took up an axe to go in search of

HAWAII AND OAHTT. 105

Smith, with an intent to kill him. On meeting Smith, he asked him
for the siapo, which he denied having, upon which he killed him with
the axe."

From other evidence, it fully appeared that all the family of Palasi
were cognizant of the fact; and the chiefs having refused to give
him up, or try him for murder, it became necessary to show these
islanders that they could not commit such acts with impunity. Captain
Hudson was, therefore, instructed to inquire into the facts, and take
such measures as would secure our citizens from molestation in future,
and cause the islanders to respect their own regulations.

From the Samoan Group the Peacock was to proceed to examine
and survey Ellice's Group ; thence north to the Kingsmill Group, and
passing through the Rurick Chain, visit the Pescadores, to ascertain,
if possible, any circumstances that would throw light on the fate of a
Captain Dowsett, who it was supposed might have been detained in
captivity by the natives. The following particulars from his wife were
furnished me by Mr. Brinsmade, the American consul at Oahu: they
are all that is known of his fate.

The schooner Victoria was in charge of Captain Dowsett, and went
to the Pescadores, on a shelling voyage ; there he landed with several
of the crew, and among them a boy named Brown. Some difficulty
occurred on shore, and the captain and such of the crew as were with
him were set upon, and were not seen afterwards. The boy escaped.
The survivors describe the people as a fishing party, unarmed and
unwarlike, with no other weapons but sticks and pieces of iron hoops
purchased from the schooner. They had neither clubs nor spears. A
report afterwards reached Oahu, that a canoe had been picked up
with some natives, who reported that Captain Dowsett and his men
were alive ; that one of them was named Sam, (the Christian name of
Captain Dowsett,) and another George, (the name of a New Zealander.)
Mr. H. A. Pierce, a merchant of Honolulu, in consequence, despatched
the schooner Waverley in search of them. This vessel has never been
heard of, but reports reached Honolulu, that Captain Scott, had suc-
ceeded in getting the chief on board, and had recognised several
articles belonging to Captain Dowsett, which his wife had sent him.
Some misunderstanding occurring between the master of the Waverley
and the chief, the former cut off the beard of the latter and sent him on
shore.

The cause of the difficulty that occurred between Mr. Dowsett and
the natives is unknown. The boy. Brown, was at a distance from the
[tarty when it took place, and did not see Mr. Dowsett. Dowsett and
the chief had been previously on the most friendly terms, and had

VOL. IV. 14

106 HAWAII AND OAHU.

exchanged tokens of friendship. I was desirous of clearing up the
mystery that hung over their fate, and also that of the Waverley, and
directed the Peacock to visit, for this purpose, Strong's and Ascension
Islands, after leaving the Pescadores.

The facts known concerning the Waverley are very few, but they
lead to the belief that she lies a wreck on Strong's Island. The
schooner Honduras, Captain Scott, went to Strong's Island under the
impression that the natives were very peaceable and friendly, intend-
ing to overhaul the vessel there, in the east bay. At noon on the 23d
of August, 1835, he arrived off the island. No canoes came alongside,
a circumstance which excited the suspicion of several of the crew that
had formerly resided there, for they knew that it was customary for
some of the natives to board a vessel as soon as she neared the island.
They told their fears to the captain ; but canoes arriving shortly after
with presents of bread-fruit, he manifested some displeasure that the
crew should have had any doubts on the subject, and calling to one of
them who formerly had lived there, told him to ask the natives where
all the white men were. They readily answered, "On the other side
of the island," which at once quieted the captain's suspicions, though
it appeared to confirm those of some of the crew who knew them better.
The captain, however, ordered the boat to be hoisted out, and gave as
many of the crew as chose, permission to go on shore. Two of them
went immediately, and then the captain and six others. Shortly after,
the natives began to throng on board. In about half an hour, those
remaining on board heard the captain call for help, which was the
last they knew respecting him.

On seeing that the attack had begun on shore, the natives on board
instantly attacked the seven men remaining in the vessel. The mate
and another man rushed below, and having armed themselves with
muskets, they again reached the deck : the natives who had possession
of it, seeing the fire-arms, immediately jumped overboard. An Ameri-
can, named Webber, and a Malay, were found lying dead ; the other
three had disappeared. The natives now discovering that the muskets
were out of order, endeavoured again to get on board, but were kept
off until the swivels were loaded, when they all swam for the shore.
These two men at once slipped the cable, and got the vessel under
way. When beating out of the harbour, a cannon was fired at them
several times, with so well-directed an aim, that the shot passed close
to the vessel. This gun was believed to be a six-pounder, belon.ii'ii^
to the Waverley ; and it is thought that that vessel was captured, and
is now lying a wreck there.

The Honduras put away for Ascension Island, where she arrived in

HAWAII AND OAHU. 107

ten days, and was taken possession of by Mr. Dudoit, the part owner,
who obtained another crew ; she then returned to Strong's Island, and
cruised off and on for a month, but nothing was seen after the first
day, when two boats and a canoe approached the vessel. One of the
boats was recognised as that belonging to the Honduras, in which the
captain had gone on shore ; the other was thought to belong to the
Waverley, but the boats did not come near enough to permit them, or
the persons in them, to be distinguished: they were, however, clothed.
Guns fired at them when they were entirely out of reach, caused them
to return. Masts, supposed to have been those of a vessel, were seen
over the land.

A rumour reached Tahiti, a year afterwards, that both Captain
Cathcart, of the Waverley, and Captain Scott, were living at Strong's
Island, and that the hull of the Waverley was lying rotting in a creek
on the west side of the island.

In looking into all the facts of these cases, it seems that there may
have been some cause for the great change that took place in the
conduct of the natives of these islands, in the course pursued by the
whites. It appears by testimony in my possession, that Mr. Dudoit
had confined and taken away two men against their will, on a former
visit. We have also seen that Captain Cathcart, of the Waverley, had
maltreated a chief, by cutting off his beard : this act was sufficient to
incense the whole people, and to cause the capture and massacre of all
the whites within reach; for it is an indignity that no natives of the
South Seas would submit to. It seems very probable that the whites
could have become so ascendant on the island, in so short a time as
elapsed between the two visits of the Honduras ; but it is not at all
surprising that the natives should have visited Mr. Dudoit's sins upon
the head of his captain.

There was an impression at Oahu, that white men must have had
some agency in the business, from the manner in which the guns were
directed and fired. If a massacre took place on board the Waver-
ley, it is not improbable that two or three might have been spared,
held in subjection by the natives, and forced to perform this service.
The presence and action of whites may have arisen from runaways
from vessels, for we have had ample proof that throughout the Pacific
isles there are dissolute characters, who would be as prone as anv
savage to deeds of piracy or blood, if they themselves were to derive
any benefit from it.

Whatever were the true state of things, I felt well satisfied that it
was desirable for some part of our force to visit this island ; both it
and Ascension were therefore included in the orders of Captain Hud-

108 HAWAII AND OAHU.

son. The latter is at present the limit of the whale-fishery within
the tropics to the west. I was desirous also of obtaining a knowledge
of the supplies it afforded for recruiting whale-ships, as well as making
an examination of some interesting monuments of the natives said to
exist there.

The Peacock and tender were ordered from these islands to proceed .,
to the Northwest Coast of America, to rendezvous with the rest of the
squadron at the Columbia river, in the latter end of April.

This cruise included the middle as well as the extreme western part
of the cruising-ground of our whale-ships. How far these intentions
were accomplished, will be seen when I come to treat of her opera-
tions. Captain Hudson's instructions will be found in Appendix VIII.

The eastern section of this belt it was my intention to explore with
the Vincennes, after having visited and examined the volcanoes of
Hawaii, and made the pendulum observations on the top of Maima
Loa. The unforeseen difficulties which occurred to prevent my carry-
ing out this plan will appear in the following chapters.

The Peacock and tender sailed on the afternoon of the 2d of De-
cember, 1840. The tender, in leaving the harbour, took the ground,
and was detained several hours. Captain Hudson sent one of his
boats to her aid, and informed Mr. Knox that he would steer off on a
certain course, directing him to follow this after dark ; 1 was, there-
fore, not a little surprised the next morning to find the Peacock in
sight, standing in, having missed the Flying-Fish in the night: we
telegraphed that the tender had sailed the evening before, and the
Peacock again stood off. We shortly after saw them join company,
and bear away on their route.

CALABASHES.

CHAPTER IV.

CONTENTS.

THE VINCENNES LEAVES HONOLULU - DRUNKEN PILOT— MESSRS. BRINSMADE AND
JUDD ACCOMPANY US— KANAKAS— PASSAGE TO HILO— BAY OP HILO— DISTANT VIEW
OF HAWAII— VIEW FROM HILO BAY— OBSERVATORY ESTABLISHED AT WAIAKEA—
HILO-STRENGTH OF THE PARTY FOR THE ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN— CONFUSION
AMONG THE NATIVES — DEPARTURE FROM HILO— THE KING'S FISH-PONDS—BYRON'S
HILL— OLAA — PAHOIHOI LAVA— KAPUAUHI— IRON MORTAR— TERRITORY OF PELE —
FIRST VIEW OF MAUNA LOA — VOLCANO OF KILAUEA — DEPARTURE FROM IT —
SCARCITY OF WATER — CLINKERS -LOSS OF MR. BRINSMADE'S STOCK OF WATER—
DESERTER — THE WOODED REGION LEFT — CAVES — SUNDAY STATION — RAGSDALE
JOINS THE PARTY— DR. JUDD GOES IN SEARCH OF SNOW— RECRUITING STATION-
DESERTION OF THE NATIVES — FLAG STATION — UNPLEASANT NIGHT — LONGLEY IS
MISSED— SUMMIT OF MAUNA LOA REACHED— ARRIVAL THERE OF MESSRS. JUDD AND
PICKERING— CRATER RECONNOITRED— ORIGIN OF THE CLINKERS— CHRISTMAS DAY—
LONGLEY IS FOUND— VISIT TO THE RECRUITING STATION— RETURN TO THE SUMMIT
— ARRIVAL OF PROVISIONS FROM THE SHIP — PENDULUM-HOUSE ERECTED — NEW
YEAR'S DAY — PHENOMENA OF THE CLOUDS — SURVEY OF THE SUMMIT BEGUN —
PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS BEGUN — SEVERE STORM — SURVEY OF THE CRATER —
EXPERIMENTS ON SOUND— PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS FINISHED-MOKU-A-WEO-WEO—
HEIGHT OF MAUNA KEA-SURVEY OF THE SUMMIT FINISHED.
K

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CHAPTER IV.

MAUNA LOA.
1840.

IN the Vincennes we were all ready at an early hour on the 3d
of December, excepting the pilot, Adams, who was not to be found.
He finally came on board, when, from his actions, I concluded that he
was intoxicated, and told him so; this it seems he took in high dudgeon.
After I had gone on shore to transact some business, he became very
noisy and abusive to the first-lieutenant, who very properly told him to
leave the ship. Finding that he was not to be depended upon, I
determined to take the ship to sea myself, and for this purpose stationed
boats to act as buoys on the narrowest part of the bar. Shortly after
this was done, a fresh breeze sprung up, we cast off, and in a few
minutes were safely outside.

I was led, by this circumstance, to lay a complaint before the king
against the employment of a drunken pilot, and was in hopes that
Adams would, in consequence, have been dismissed, and a competent
person appointed in his stead. But through misrepresentations made
to the king, no new appointment was made. Mr. Reynolds acts in
old Adams's place when he is drunk, and the result, as I have been
credibly informed, is, that more than one half of the ships, going in or
coming out, get on shore. Some instances of the sort occurred during
my stay, among which was the case of the ship Morea. I urged the
dismissal of .Adams, on the ground that if he were not removed, the
price of insurance of vessels bound to the port of Honolulu would be
affected, and that, besides, the interest of the owners would suffer
by their detention from his inability to take the vessels to sea.
The correspondence that passed on this subject, will be found in

Appendix IX.

(in)

112 MAUNA LOA.

Having got safely out of the harbour, we hove-to for the boats;
when they joined us they were hoisted up, and we made sail with a
fine fresh trade-wind.

I had the pleasure of being accompanied by Mr. Brinsmade, our
worthy consul, and my friend Dr. G. P. Judd, both of whom volun-
teered to accompany me in the novel and arduous enterprise I was
about to undertake. The former hoped to improve his health, which
had suffered from long confinement in the warm zone of the islands,
by the invigorating mountain air ; the latter was desirous to share our
troubles and fatigues, and undertook to act as our physician, inter-
preter, adviser, and manager of the natives. To him the Expedition
is much indebted for his exertions and enthusiasm. Besides this,
I feel personally under great obligations, and take pleasure in making
my acknowledgments here for his hospitality, and the kindness received
from himself and family while at Honolulu, and for the information
I derived from him relative to the islands. We had, also, with us
as interpreters, several graduates of the high-school at Lahaina, whom
I thought necessary in the management of the natives we were about
to employ.

Believing that we should be much more likely to obtain favourable
winds to the northward, I determined to pass between the islands of
Molokai and Oahu.

We now began to find that our new men, the Kanakas, required
much attention; many of them were sea-sick, and, true to their former
habits, it was difficult to arouse or induce them to exert themselves.
They began to recover in a few days ; but though well-disposed men,
they are unfitted for service in men-of-war. They do very well when
they are working in small parties, but are inclined to be idle, and dis-
posed to let others do all the work. It is, also, extremely difficult to
infuse into them a proper degree of attention to personal cleanliness.
To judge of those we had on board the Vincennes, they are not apt at
learning either the language or the ideas necessary for sailors. The
greater portion of them were found very timid, and they did not like to
venture aloft. The only place in which we found them useful was in
boats, for they were more in their element while in the water than out of
it. One or two serious accidents, however, were near occurring to the
officers in boats, while passing through the reefs, from the desire of the
Kanakas to avoid danger by jumping overboard, and taking to swim-
ming, thus leaving the boat exposed in perilous situations. On the
whole, I was disappointed with them, and would prefer to go weak-
handed rather than again resort to such aid, although I must do them

MAUNA LO A. 113

the justice to say they were extremely willing, and when pulling at an
oar, serviceable enough. They suit the whale-ships, I am told, admira-
bly, working steadily and well, and are fearless in the chase. They
are at all times well disposed to do what they are shown or under-
stand ; but, as I before said, their capacity is very limited. Their
Hawaiian names were too difficult for the sailors to adopt, and they
very soon had others given them, that arose from personal peculiari-
ties, or from some whim of the sailors with whom they messed ; and
they were consequently seldom called by their real names, except at
muster.

During our progress to Waiakea, or Hilo Bay, we had light variable
winds, with heavy dews at night. On the 8th we made Mauna Kea,
then about fifty miles distant, subtending an angle of two degrees : it
was capped with snow. As we approached the island, we had, also, a
view of Mauna Loa, with the cloud resting over the volcano of Kilauea,
the scene of our future adventures.

The next morning we found ourselves close in with the land, and at
eleven o'clock received a pilot on board, John Ely, who proved to be
an old shipmate of mine in the Guerriere frigate in 1820; but we had
both lost the recollection of each other : I had grown into manhood, and
he had been dwelling, as he said, among the ignorant savages of the
Pacific.

For three or four hours we had baffling winds ; but after 3 p. M. the
sea-breeze came up and wafted us into the bay, which we reached at
half-past four, and dropped our anchor in five and a half fathoms, with
muddy bottom.

This bay is little protected from the sea, and is almost an open road-
stead. It has, however, an extensive sunken coral reef to seaward,
which is too shoal to allow of the passage of vessels over, and affords
some protection against the rolling sea ; a vessel therefore usually lies
quiet, unless it is blowing strong outside. There is no danger in enter-
ing the bay ; all that is required is to avoid the west point of the reef,
and on passing it to haul to the southward. We found the best anchor-
age on the east side of the bay, where Cocoa-nut Island and the most
eastern point are in range.

In sailing towards Hilo Bay, Hawaii has but few of the characters
that indicate a volcanic origin. In this respect it resembles Savaii, in
the Samoan Group ; and the resemblance has been the cause of what
is in fact the same name having been given to both. The two words
differ no more in spelling and sound, than has arisen from the long
separation of two families of the same race and language. Many of
the points and headlands present a like similarity in name, and strengthen

VOL. IV. K2 15

114 M AUNA LOA.

the conviction of the common origin of the inhabitants of the two
groups.*

To one unacquainted with the great height of the mountains of
Hawaii, this island might appear of comparatively small elevation, for
its surface rises gradually from the sea, uniform and unbroken; no
abrupt spurs or angular peaks are to be seen, and the whole is apparently
clothed with a luxuriant vegetation.

The scene which the island presents as viewed from the anchorage
in Hilo Bay, is both novel and splendid : the shores are studded with
extensive groves of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, interspersed with
plantations of sugar-cane ; through these, numerous streams are seen
hurrying to the ocean ; to this succeeds a belt of some miles in width,
free from woods, but clothed in verdure ; beyond is a wider belt of
forest, whose trees, as they rise higher and higher from the sea, change
their characters from the vegetation of the tropics to that of polar re-
gions ; and above all tower the snow-capped summits of the mountains.

From this point of view, Mauna Kea, distant about thirty-five miles,
has the appearance of being by much the highest mountain on the
island ; while Mauna Loa, distant sixty miles, and rounded at its sum-
mit to the shape of a regular dome, requires an effort of reason to
satisfy the observer that it really has as great an elevation. A con-
viction that this is the case may be reached by tracing with the eye the
edge of the forest that encircles both mountains, and noting how large
a portion of the dome of Mauna Loa rises above the woody region.

No snow was visible to the naked eye on Mauna Loa, but with a
telescope it was seen scattered here and there on its rounded summit.
The appearance of this mountain is so deceptive, that one would not
suppose it to have half its real altitude ; and it might easily be passed
unnoticed, so unpretending is its aspect. From Hilo, Mauna Loa looks
as if one might walk over its smooth surface without difficulty ; there
is, indeed, so much optical deception in respect to this mountain, that
it served to give us all great encouragement, and we set about making
our preparations with a determination to succeed in the attempt to reach
its highest summit. The position of the crater of Kilauea was denoted
by the silvery cloud which hangs over it by day; which, as evening
closed in, was, by the glare of the fires burning beneath, made visible
throughout the night.

My time was now actively employed in establishing the observatory
at Waiakea Point, for rating the chronometers, and in arranging the

* This subject will form a part of the report of Mr. Hale, the Philologist to the Expedi-
tion, to which I refer for a full investigation of it, and of its bearing upon the migrations of
the Polynesian tribes.

MAUNA LOA. 115

instruments to carry on simultaneous observations with our mountain
party. I had also a house built after the native fashion, in order that
some of the officers might be engaged upon the charts.

Waiakea Point is situated on the opposite side of the bay from Hilo.
The distance between them is a little more than a mile, and the path
leads along a sandy beach, on which the surf continually breaks, arid
at times with great violence.

Hilo is a straggling village, and is rendered almost invisible by the
luxuriant growth of the sugar-cane, which the natives plant around
their houses. A good road has been made through it for the extent
of a mile, at one end of which the mission establishment is situated.
This consists of several houses, most of which are of modern style,
covered with zinc and shingles. One of them, however, the residence
of the Rev. Mr. Coan, was very differently built, and derived impor-
tance in our eyes, from its recalling the associations of home. It was
an old-fashioned, prim, red Yankee house, with white sills and case-
ments, and double rows of small windows. No one could mistake the
birthplace of the architect, and although thirty degrees nearer the
equator than the climate whence its model was drawn, I could not but
think it as well adapted to its new as to its original station.

The whole settlement forms a pretty cluster ; the paths and road-
sides are planted with pine-apples; the soil is deep and fertile, and
through an excess of moisture, yields a rank vegetation.

The church is of mammoth dimensions, and will, it is said, accom-
modate as many as seven thousand persons. It is now rapidly falling
into decay, and another is in progress of erection. Many of the native
houses are surrounded with bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, and have a
fine view of the bay.

During our passage from Oahu, it was arranged that each of the
natives employed by us should be designated by a tin disk, in order to
keep them in some sort of order or discipline. These were painted of
different colours, so that the wearers might be known to us and
mustered, without having recourse to their names or asking any ques-
tions. It was intended to divide them into companies of fifty, with a
petty chief and one of our interpreters to each. Dr. Judd very kindly
arranged all the preliminaries with Pea, the king's agent for the district
of Hilo, and the keeper of his fish-ponds, whom his majesty Kameha-
meha had authorized to employ people for our service. The natives
had consequently been ordered to assemble and assist us as we might
require. The king had likewise ordered a large number of hogs to be
collected as a present, and Pea was further instructed to make a pro-
vision of taro, poe, &c.

116 MAUNA LOA.

In consequence of these arrangements, the natives assembled, and
were divided into companies ; the terms of their employment were
agreed on, for taking loads to the mountain and bringing them back ;
their names and numbers were all entered in a book by the scribes, as
we termed the interpreters, or Lahaina scholars. At the head of these
scribes was one Kalumo, a young man of great intelligence, but some-
what, as we soon found, inclined to dissipation.

The articles of every description were now arranged in loads, some
for one native, others for two, and a few of the heavy and large ones
for four. Each of these loads had a number attached to it ; and they
were, previous to the day of departure, arranged in proper order. The
time fixed for setting out was Monday, the 14th of December.

Beside about two hundred natives, the party consisted of Lieutenant
Budd, Passed Midshipman Eld, Midshipman Elliott, Mr. Brinsmade,
Dr. Pickering, Mr. Brackenridge, Dr. Judd, myself, and ten men,
including our servants from the ship. This was a large party ; but
when it is considered, that besides our instruments, tents, &c., pro-
visions were to be carried, it will not be considered so disproportionate,
especially as it generally requires one-third of the number, if not more,
to carry provisions for the rest.

Having arranged every thing with Lieutenant Carr, who was left in
charge of the ship, for the duties to be performed by him, I set out, at
an early hour, to join the host at the Point. Here I found every thing
in confusion ; our chief scribe, Kalumo, who had the books containing
the lists, was missing, and there was an uproar resembling that of
Bedlam. Having very willingly committed all the arrangements, as
well as the management of the natives, to Dr. Judd, I had nothing to
do but to look on.

In consequence of the absence of Kalumo, the natives had an oppor-
tunity of trying the weight of some of the bundles, and before he was
forthcoming, many of the lightest loads had very adroitly been carried
off. No person who has not seen a large collection of South Sea
natives, can imagine the noise and confusion that prevailed. Many
natives belonging to Kanuha's district had not been engaged, and
were of course on the spot, to look on, talk, and dispute.

In consequence of the conduct of Kalumo, it was soon found that
there would be many loads for which we had no bearers, and these
were, of course, all those of bulk and weight ; but how to remedy this
state of things was beyond our power to conceive. To stop those
who had gone on, and oblige them to return, was impossible. Several
hours in the day had already been employed in making up the loads.
and the day was fast wearing away; for two o'clock had now arrived.

MAUNALOA. 117

Recourse was therefore had to Kanuha, the chief of Hilo, who had the
name of being a great extortioner. He came, and as he well under-
stood our situation, showed his modesty in asking only twice as much
as had been promised to those who had gone before. There was, how-
ever, no remedy, and the bargain was made ; but it was some conso-
lation that the loads his people took were twice as heavy as those the
others bore.

It was amusing to see how this chief operated with his people.
Numbers of bearers were soon obtained, and the loads sent off without
any further difficulty. The character of Kanuha for energy had not
been acquired without some reason, and his authority over those be-
longing to his district was fully evident. I was delighted when I saw
the last package off, and the whole of the bearers winding their way
on the road for the mountain. The officers who had been assigned to
the different detachments, received orders not to suffer any to stray
from the path.

At a short distance from Waiakea, we passed the royal fish-ponds,
from which, during our stay at Hilo, by order of the king, my table
was constantly supplied with the fine fresh-water mullet that had been
taken from the sea when small, as before described. I have frequently
had an opportunity of tasting both kinds at the same meal ; and I was
not quite so well convinced of the superiority of the fresh over the
salt-water fish as the natives appear to be. The difference, however,
may be much greater when they are eaten raw, which is the favourite
mode of the natives, and which I had not curiosity sufficient to induce
me to attempt.

In and around these ponds is a very fine species of duck, of which
we obtained many. . The natives have a mode of catching them which
is ingenious : a string is tied to a small stick two or three inches in
length, and the other end to a stone of two or three pounds weight,
which lies on the bottom of the pond. The stick, which floats on the
surface, is baited with a small fish, which the duck pounces upon, and
swallows : in attempting to fly away, the stick is crossed in the throat,
so that the duck, who is unable to carry off the stone, is secured.

In two hours, we had travelled about five miles, and had ascended
five hundred feet. The road proved tolerably good, although it
scarcely admitted two persons to walk abreast.

We passed the hill, described by Lord Byron's party, which it
would have been difficult to recognise had it not been pointed out, on
account of its gradual rise. This hill afforded a magnificent view of
Hilo Bay, and of the surrounding country below us.

Six miles from Hilo we entered the first wood, and at 6 p. M. we

118 MAUN A LOA.

passed, at eight miles distance, the chasm that divides the Hilo from
the Puna district. As the darkness set in, we began to experience the
difficulties we had anticipated from our late start : the bustle and noise
became every moment more audible along the whole line as the night
advanced: what added not a little to our discomfort, was the bad road
we now had to encounter, rendered worse as each native passed on in
the tracks of those preceding him, until at last it became in places
quite miry.

We continued on, however, until we found most of the natives had
come to a stand, and were lying about among the grass by the road-
side near a few grass-houses. One of these was hired for our accom-
modation and to protect us from the heavy dew, to which the natives
seemed accustomed : here we proposed to stay until the moon arose,
and in the interim to get what little rest we could.

After it became sufficiently light we again set out with a part of our
host. The cloud of the volcano of Kilauea lay before us like a pillar
of fire, to guide us on our way. We reached Olaa, 'the habitation of
Pea, about half-past four.

Here we found Messrs. Waldron and Drayton, who had preceded
us, taking their breakfast on a large round of boeuf d. la mode and
coffee, in which we all cheerfully joined. We concluded to stop here
until eight o'clock, to allow time for the natives to cook their food and
serve out the rations of poe.

It will scarcely be possible to form a full idea of our company : that
of my Lord Byron is described as a sort of triumphal procession ;
ours was very different from this, and was more allied to a May-day
morning in New York, or a vast caravan. It consisted, as my friend
Dr. Judd informed me, of two hundred bearers of burdens, forty hogs,
a bullock and bullock-hunter, fifty bearers of poe (native food), twenty-
five with calabashes, of different sizes and shapes, from two feet to
six inches in diameter. Some of the bearers had large and small
panels of the portable house on their backs ; others, frying-pans or
kettles ; and others, tents or knapsacks. Then there were lame horses,
which, instead of carrying their riders, were led by them ; besides a
large number of hangers-on, in the shape of mothers, wives, and
children, equalling in number the bearers, all grumbling and com-
plaining of their loads ; so that wherever and whenever we stopped,
confusion and noise ensued. I felt happy in not understanding the
language, and of course was deaf to their complaints. It was very
evident that the loads were unequally divided ; and I must do the
natives the justice to say, they had reason to complain, not of us, but
of each other. It was impossible for the thing to be remedied at once,

MAUNALOA. 119

although it was not a little provoking to see several natives staggering
under their loads, while one or two would be skipping along with a
few pounds' weight only. At first, many of them preferred the hog-
driving business ; but I understood that they afterwards found out that
it was no sinecure to drive a hog either of large or small size, and
still less so to have charge of the bullock, who was half wild. The
terror and fright he produced among the natives, proved a source of
much amusement to us ; and some droll scenes took place as the
natives rushed in all directions to get beyond the reach of his horns,
throwing down their loads without regard to the consequences. This
was, however, prevented afterwards, by sending on the bullock, with
his attaches or drivers, in front.

I found Olaa to be one thousand one hundred and thirty-eight feet
above the level of the sea ; and the temperature there was 72°.

While we were getting a slight nap, Dr. Judd was engaged in
superintending the distribution of food to the multitude, during which
time much confusion and noise existed. The natives put me in mind
of wild beasts in this respect ; they seldom make any noise unless their
appetite and ease are in some way concerned.

Among the party we had several white men as interpreters, besides
our native guides, who formed as it were a connecting link between
ourselves and the natives proper. The whole was in keeping, for all
had set out for a hard and rough journey ; and knowing we had an
arduous task to perform, we were all appropriately clothed for work.

The dress of the natives consisted of the maro and a light piece
of tapa-cloth, worn as a shawl, which, when working, was usually
wrapped around their bodies. In order to protect the feet, they were
each furnished with a pair of raw-hide sandals, which they tie on their
feet as boys do their skates. These are put on so as to cover the
palms of the feet. For want of hide, some made sandals of ti-leaves,
which answer the purpose quite as well for a time, though they are not
so durable, and walking in them causes an awkward gait.

The whole company was a sort of mob, each moving after his own
fashion., and straggling occasionally out of the path to save a few
yards of distance. The chief Pea and his body-guard brought up the
rear, to pick up stragglers and assist the weary.

After leaving Olaa, we had no distinct path to follow ; for the whole
surface became a mass of lava, which retained all its metallic lustre,
and appeared as if it had but just run over the ground — so small was
the action of decomposition. There were only a few stunted bushes
on our track ; but some dense patches of wood were observed on the

120 MAUNALOA.

right. The day was warm, with a bright sun ; and when we passed
pools of water standing in the lava rock, as we frequently did, the
natives would rush into them like overheated dogs, and seemed to
enjoy the temporary coolness brought about by the evaporation.

The lava had a peculiar metallic appearance, and had evidently run
over the surface in a melted state. The natives call this smooth kind
pahoihoi, which is the same word they use for satin. This, after
running smooth for some distance, would assume a wrinkled or wavy
form, showing that the mass had been pressed forward, in cooling.
The melted rocky stream, in places where the descent was rapid,
appears to have been urged forward with some velocity, and as the
surface cooled and became fixed, the melted matter has run out from
beneath, leaving a kind of trench or tunnel, which, in some places, is of
considerable size. The localities of the tunnels are pointed out by the
hollow sound experienced in passing over them.

At 3 p. M., we reached Kapuauhi, which consists of a few houses,
and is about fifteen miles from Olaa. The temperature, on our arrival,
was found to be 80° in the shade, while in the sun it stood at 84° ; the
whole extent around was black lava; indeed there was no place where
we could pitch a tent of six feet by eight, and as it looked like rain
we concluded to occupy one of the houses that was offered to us ; but
it taught us a lesson we remembered for some time, for all our blankets
and clothes became infested with fleas, and those of the most voracious
kind.

Dr. Judd, finding that some of the natives were overloaded, sent
back for a reserve of thirty men, to overtake us as soon as possible.
Several of the packages were unwieldy, and others, though small,
were much complained of; among the latter was a small iron mortar,
or eprouvette, which I was taking up to try some experiments on
sound, in the rarefied air: this had been a great pest to the natives,
and they had made every endeavour to get rid of it. As there was
some difficulty in getting our host awake, and ready for a move
betimes, it was proposed that the mortar should be fired at early
dawn : although small, yet with a well-adjusted plug driven into it, it
made the noise of a great gun. It was accordingly fired the next
morning to the wonder of all, and soon aroused the mob. Such was
the effect this had upon the bearers of it, that no more complaints
were uttered, and they joyfully shouldered their burden, having be-
come men of great consequence in the eyes of their fellows, and sub-
jects of the day's talk. Many now would have exchanged loads for
the honour of being the bearers of it.

MAUNA LOA. 121

The height \ve had now attained was two thousand one hundred
and eighty-four feet ; the thermometer, 72° ; the lowest temperature in
the night, 58°. A slight shower of rain fell during the night.

At 8 A. M., we left Kapuauhi, or what our company called " Flea
Hall," after having passed a most comfortless night. Nothing could
be more annoying than the swarms of fleas that attacked us, and I
believe all the native houses are thus unpleasantly infested. In about
three hours we reached the Okea tree, known as the boundary of the
territory of Pele, or the goddess of the volcano. In bygone days no
native dared venture beyond it without an offering to Pele, under
penalty of her vengeance. Many strange traditions are told of her,
and of the combats she waged with the ancient warriors of the island,
in which she destroyed whole armies by her " floods of fire." Dr.
Judd and myself, while at the volcano, listened to one of these long
traditions from a young man named Kiwe, a descendant of one of the
" tradition bearers," who were employed specially to hand down the
traditions in their family, and were thus the depositaries of the oral
archives of the nation. Kiwe came from Panau, in the neighbour-
hood of this district of fire, and we were, of course, very desirous of
obtaining any information he could give. As he had come to offer
himself as guide, he was sent for to our hut, and was asked to take a
seat. Kalumo, the chief scribe, before spoken of, was sent for, and
began to question him relative to the traditions. Kiwe began by
describing various great chiefs and their genealogies, but nothing
relating to their feats or actions, except that the great chief of Papa-
pala and the goddess Pele had quarrelled about a surf-board, which
ended in his being consumed, after having attempted to cross the fiery
lake upon it. Many interrogatories were put to him, but he soon
became sullen and refused to answer ; he told us he had discovered
our intention, and that he knew we were going to put what he said in
a book, that every body might read it, and therefore he would give us
no further information. This I hope will be received as a sufficient
apology for my not giving the histories and details of these marvellous
personages ; for, according to Kiwe, by relating them he would lose
his occupation as soon as they were printed.

Soon after we left Kapuauhi, we met with soil formed upon the lava
by volcanic ashes ; the bushes became thicker and more thrifty, rising
into small trees ; quantities of strawberry-vines were perceived, but
the natives searched in vain for some straggling fruit. The time for
its bearing had passed, but they are said to be found in great abun-
dance, and of very fine flavour, at the proper season. Okea was the
principal wood, and there was some koa (Acacia). A curious plant

VOL. IV. L 16

122 MAUNALOA.

was pointed out, the sap of which blisters the skin, and with which
the inhabitants produce a sort of tattooing in large and small round
lumps. I did not learn how durable they were. This plant is called
mau-a-laili.

Our course, since we left our resting-place, was nearly south-south-
west, and the inclination on which we ascended was not as rapid as it
had been. The country on our left was one entire rock, while that to
the right was still occupied by the line of forest I have before spoken
of, which bounded our view to the west.

Just as we reached the great plain of the volcano, we approached
the southern limit of the wood, and, on turning its corner, Mauna Loa
burst upon us in all its grandeur. The day was extremely fine, the
atmosphere pure and clear, except a few flying clouds, and this im-
mense dome rose before us from a plain some twenty miles in breadth.
I had not, until then, formed any adequate idea of its magnitude and
height. The whole dome appeared of a bronze colour, and its unin-
terrupted smooth outline was relieved against the deep blue of a
tropical sky. Masses of clouds were floating around it, throwing their
shadows distinctly on its sides, to which they gave occasional relief
and variety. There was a bluish haze resting on the plain, that appa-
rently gave it great distance, though this was partially counteracted
by the distinctiveness of the dome. I now, for the first time, felt the
magnitude of the task I had undertaken.

So striking was the mountain, that I was surprised and disappointed
when called upon by my friend, Dr. Judd, to look at the volcano ; for
I saw nothing before us but a huge pit, black, ill-looking, and totally
different from what I had anticipated. There were no jets of fire, no
eruptions of heated stones, no cones, nothing but a depression, that, in
the midst of the vast plain by which it is surrounded, appeared small
and insignificant.

At the further end was what appeared a small cherry-red spot,
whence vapour was issuing, and condensing above into a cloud of
silvery brightness. This cloud, however, was more glorious than any
I had ever beheld, and the sight of it alone would have repaid for the
trouble of coming thus far.

We hurried to the edge of the cavity, in order to get a view of its
interior, and as we approached, vapour issuing from numerous cracks,
showed that we were passing over ground beneath which fire was
raging. The rushing of the wind past us was as if it were dnnvn
inwards to support the combustion of some mighty conflagration.

When the edge is reached, the extent of the cavity becomes appa-
rent, and its depth became sensible by comparison with the figures of

M A U N A L O A. 123

some of our party who had already descended. The vastness thus
made sensible, transfixes the mind with astonishment, and every in-
stant the impression of grandeur and magnitude increases. To give
an idea of its capacity, the city of New York might be placed within
it, and when at its bottom would be hardly noticed, for it is three and
a half miles long, two and a half wide, and over a thousand feet deep.
A black ledge surrounds it at the depth of six hundred and sixty feet,
and thence to the bottom is three hundred and eighty-four feet. The
bottom looks, in the daytime, like a heap of smouldering ruins. The
descent to the ledge appears to the sight a short and easy task, but it
takes an hour to accomplish.

We pitched our tents in full view of the volcano, on its western
side, and the natives busied themselves in building temporary huts to
shelter them from the cold blast that rushed by. All this was accom-
plished, and we had time to take another view of the crater before
dark.

All usual ideas of volcanic craters are dissipated upon seeing this.
There is no elevated cone, no igneous matter or rocks ejected beyond
the rim. The banks appear as if built of massive blocks, which are
in places clothed with ferns, nourished by the issuing vapours.

What is wonderful in the day, becomes ten times more so at night.
The immense pool of cherry-red liquid lava, in a state of violent ebul-
lition, illuminates the whole expanse, and flows in all directions like
water, while the illuminated cloud hangs over it like a vast canopy.

The bank near us was covered with half-naked natives, two hun-
dred or more in number, all gazing, with affrighted looks and savage
wonder, on this surprising phenomenon. Their ancestors would
not have dared thus to look upon and into this dreaded abode of
the malicious goddess Pele, never having approached it without the
greatest fear and awe, and then only to deliver their offering by
casting it into the burning pool, to secure a safe transit through her
territory.

We sat on its northern bank for a long time in silence, until one of
the party proposed we should endeavour to reach the bank nearest to
and over the lake; and having placed ourselves under the direction of
Mr. Drayton, we followed him along the edge of the western bank ;
but although he had been over the ground the day before, he now lost
his way, and we found ourselves still on the upper bank, after walk-
ing two or three miles. We then resolved to return to the first
place that appeared suitable for making a descent, and at last one
was found, which, however, proved steep and rugged. In the dark-
ness we got many a fall, and received numerous bruises; but we

124 MAUNALOA.

were too near the point of our destination to turn back without
fully satisfying our curiosity. We finally reached the second ledge,
and soon came to the edge of it ; we were then directly over the pool
or lake of fire, at the distance of about five hundred feet above it, and
the light was so strong that it enabled me to read the smallest print.
This pool is fifteen hundred long by one thousand feet wide, and of an
oval figure.

I was struck with the absence of any noise, except a low murmuring,
like that which is heard from the boiling of a thick liquid. The ebul-
lition was, (as is the case where the heat is applied to one side of a
vessel,) most violent near the northern side. The vapour and steam
that were constantly escaping, were so rarefied as not to impede the
view, and only became visible in the bright cloud above us, which
seemed to sink and rise alternately. We occasionally perceived stones,
or masses of red-hot matter, ejected to the height of about seventy feet,
and falling back into the lake again.

The lake was apparently rising, and wanted but a few feet of over-
flowing its banks. When I began to reflect upon the position we were
in, its insecurity, and the vast and deep fires beneath, with the high
basaltic walls encompassing us on all sides, the sulphurous fumes and
broad glare, throwing such enormous masses of stone in strong relief
by their own fusion, I found it difficult to comprehend how such a re-
servoir can thus be pent up, and be viewed in such close proximity,
without accident or danger. The whole party was perfectly silent, and
the countenance of each individual expressed the feeling of awe and
wonder which I felt in so great a degree myself, and which the scene
was so well calculated to excite.

No one can see all this and yet doubt the theory of the igneous
fluidity of the centre of the earth. All combustible causes that we are
acquainted with, are totally inadequate to produce such an effect. The
whole seemed boiling up like a fountain, differing only in density and
colour.

The apparent flow to its southern part, is only because the ebullition
on the north side causes it to be higher, and the waves it produces con-
sequently pass over to the opposite side.

We returned to our tents towards midnight, much fatigued, but found
sleep impossible after the excitement of such a scene.

At daylight the thermometer stood at 43°, and there was much de-
posit from the steam-holes. The barometrical height of the encamp-
ment on the west side of the crater, was found to be three thousand
nine hundred and seventy feet.

The mortar was again fired, and soon after a rebellion was found to

MA UN A LOA. 125

exist among the natives in the camp, that threatened to upset all our
plans; and, in consequence of it, we were obliged to defer our depar-
ture. Dr. Judd soon detected the ringleaders, one in particular, who
was holding forth to the Kanakas, advising them, as they now had me
in their power, to strike for higher wages ; for, if they did so, we
should be obliged to pay them double, or any thing extra they might
ask for. He was at once made an example of by being turned out of
the camp, and sent away.

This had the desired effect, and the rest signified their willingness to
go forward ; but as many of them desired rest on account of their sore
shoulders, we assured them we would remain for a while, provided
there was no further difficulty.

From this I well knew that no confidence was to be placed in the
natives. I at once despatched an order to Lieutenant Carr, on board
the Vincennes, to send on a detachment of fifty men, under officers, as
quickly as possible, and likewise to forward an extra supply of provi-
sions with them to meet our wants.

I now employed the day in making observations for the longitude
and latitude. Some of the officers were engaged in distributing the
loads more equally, and others in descending into the crater.

As I proposed remaining here a few days on my return, I deter-
mined to await until then for the exploration of this volcano. Some
of the observations then made will be noticed at present, that the
nature of the lavas may be more fully understood. This day was em-
ployed in becoming acquainted with its paths, and in making sketches.
One made by Mr. Dray ton, with the camera lucida, is very character-
istic, and was taken from one of the best positions for viewing this
wonderful place, on the north bank, near its west side. These sketches
I conceived would enable me to ascertain if any, and what, alterations
should take place between our two visits, for I could not but imagine
it must be constantly undergoing change. For this purpose we multi-
plied our camera lucida drawings, and I descended again nearly to the
black ledge for this purpose. The pathway leads down on the north-
east side, over frightful chasms, sometimes on a mere edge of earth,
and on rocks rent asunder to the depth of several hundred feet.
Through these fissures steam issues, which as it reaches the upper part,
condenses, and gives nourishment to masses of ferns, and an abun-
dance of small bushes (Vaccinium), bearing a small berry of an agree-
able flavour, called by the natives ohela. The descent, however, is not
in reality difficult, except in a few places, where it requires some care
in passing over the basaltic blocks, that are here piled in confused
heaps. On approaching the black ledge, which from above appeared

Lii

126 MAUNA LOA.

level and smooth, it is seen to be covered with large pieces of lava,
rising in places into cones thirty or forty feet high, which are appa-
rently bound down by huge tortuous masses, which surround them like
cables. In other places these are stretched lengthwise on the level
ledge, and look like hideous fiery serpents with black vitreous scales,
that occasionally give out smoke, and in some cases fire.

The immense space which I have described the crater as covering,
is gradually filled with the fluid mass of lava to a certain point, above
which the walls, or the surrounding soil, are no longer able to bear the
pressure, it then finds vent by an eruption, previous to which, how-
ever, a large part that is next to the walls of the crater has in a measure
become cooled, and remains fixed at the level it had attained. After
the eruption, the central mass therefore alone subsides three or four
hundred feet, and leaves the portion that has become solid, forming a
kind of terrace or shelf: this is what constitutes the " black ledge,"
and is one of the most striking features of the crater. Its surface is
comparatively level, though somewhat uneven, and is generally coated
with a vitreous and in some places a scoriaceous lava, from half an
inch to an inch thick, very iridescent and brittle. In walking over
this crust, it crumbles and cracks under the feet; it seems to be easily
decomposed, and in some places had lost its lustre, having acquired a
grayish colour and become friable. There was another variety of the
vitreous lava, which was smooth and brittle : this occurred in the large
hollow tunnels or trenches, the insides of which were rough, and full
of sharp and vitreous points. On the turnings and windings small
swellings were met, which on being broken off, had a strong resem-
blance to the bottom of a junk-bottle ; at another place, fragments
appeared to have been scattered around in a semi-fluid state, in an
endless variety of shapes, and so brittle as to be preserved with diffi-
culty. Underneath these was to be seen the real lava or basalt, as
firm and solid as granite, with no appearance of cells, and extremely
compact; it is seen separated into large blocks, but none that I saw
were of a regular figure, though in some places it was thought by
others to approach the hexagonal form.

There is a third kind of lava, fibrous in its texture, of quite recent
ejection, and procured from the bottom of the crater; this had some-
what the appearance of a dark pumice, but was dense in comparison.
On the black ledge the absence of all debris from those high perpen-
dicular walls, cannot fail to be remarked ; we endeavoured to find in
explanation of this, but I was not satisfied with the only one which
presented itself. This was to suppose that the fluid mass had recently
risen above the ledge, altogether concealing it from view, and that it

MAUN A LOA. 127

had entirely fused its surface. The appearances did not satisfy me
that this had been the case, nor did the supposition account for the
fact, that none had been collected within the last few months ; besides,
it might be supposed that some portion of the former accumulation
ought to have been discoverable, which it was not.

To walk on the black ledge is not always safe, and persons who
venture it are compelled for safety to carry a pole and feel before they
tread over the deceitful path, as though they were moving on doubtful
ice. The crackling noise made in walking over this crisp surface
(like a coating of blue and yellow glass) resembles that made by tread-
ing on frozen snow in very cold weather. Every here and there are
seen dark pits and vaulted caverns, with heated air rushing from them.
Large and extended cracks are passed over, the air issuing from which,
at a temperature of 180°, is almost stifling; masses are surmounted
that it would seem as if the accumulated weight of a few persons
would cause to topple over, and plunge the whole into the fiery pool
beneath.

On approaching the large lake at the southern end of the crater, the
heat becomes almost too stifling to bear. I shall not soon forget my
employment therein, in measuring a base to ascertain the extent and
capacity of the lake, of which some account will be given hereafter.
At about two-thirds of the distance from the north end are extensive
sulphur banks, from the fissures in which much steam is continually
escaping: in these fissures are seen many beautiful crystals, adhering
to their sides; while on the bank itself, some specimens of sulphate of
copper, in beautiful blue crystals, were found.

From many places on the black ledge a bluish smoke was seen
issuing, smelling strongly of sulphur, and marked by an efflorescence
of a white tasteless powder among the cavities: this it was difficult to
to detach without scalding the fingers. There were many cracks,
where our sticks were set on fire, and some places in the vaulted
chambers beneath, where the rock might be seen red hot.

The black ledge is of various widths, from six hundred to two
thousand feet. It extends all around the cavity, but it is seldom
possible to pass around that portion of it near the burning lake, not
only on account of the stifling fumes, but of the intense heat. In
returning from the neighbourhood of the lake to the point where we
began the ascent, we were one hour and ten minutes of what we
considered hard walking; and in another hour we reached the top of
the bank. This will probably give the best idea of its extent and the
distance to be passed over in the ascent from the black ledge, which
was found six hundred and sixty feet below the rim.

128 MAUN A LOA.

To the bottom of the crater, there was a descent at the northwest
angle of the black ledge, where a portion of it had fallen in, and
afforded an inclined plane to the bottom. This at first appeared
smooth and easy to descend, but on trial it proved somewhat difficult,
for there were many fissures crossing the path at right angles, which
it was necessary to get over, and the vitreous crust was so full of
sharp spiculse as to injure the hands and cut the shoes at every step.
Messrs. Waldron and Drayton in their descent were accompanied by
my dog Sydney, who had reached this distance, when his feet became
so much wounded that they were compelled to drive him back; he
was lamed for several days afterwards, in consequence of this short
trip into the crater.

These gentlemen, after much toil, finally reached the floor of the
crater. This was afterwards found to be three hundred and eighty-
four feet below the black ledge, making the whole depth nine hundred
and eighty-seven feet below the northern rim. Like the black ledge,
it was not found to have the level and even surface it had appeared
from above to possess: hillocks and ridges, from twenty to thirty
feet high, ran across it, and were in some places so perpendicular as
to render it difficult to pass over them. The distance they traversed
below was deceptive, and they had no means of ascertaining it but by
the time it took to walk it, which was upwards of two hours, from the
north extreme of the bottom to the margin of the large lake. It is
extremely difficult to reach this lake, on account of its overflowing at
short intervals, which does not allow the fluid mass time to cool. The
nearest approach that any one of the party made to it at this time
was about fifteen hundred or two thousand feet; they were then near
enough to burn their shoes and light their sticks in the lava which had
overflowed during the preceding night.

The smaller lake was well viewed from a slight eminence: this lake
was slightly in action; the globules, (if large masses of red fluid lava,
several tons in weight, can be so called,) were seen heaving up at
regular intervals, six or eight feet in height; and smaller ones were
thrown up to a much greater elevation. At the distance of fifty feet
no gases were to be seen, nor was any steam evident, yet a thin
smoke-like vapour arose from the whole fluid surface: no puffs of
smoke were perceived at any time.

At first it seemed quite possible to pass over the congealed surface
of the lake, to within reach of the fluid, though the spot on whu.-h
they stood was so hot as to require their sticks to be laid down to stand
on. This idea was not long indulged in, for in a short time the fluid
mass began to enlarge; presently a portion would crack and exhibit

MAUNA LOA. 129

a bright red glare; then in a few moments the lava-stream would
issue through, and a portion would speedily split off and suddenly
disappear in the liquid mass. This kind of action went on until the
lake had extended itself to its outer bank, and had approached to
within fifteen feet of their position, when the guide said it was high
time to make a retreat.

John, the pilot, who was now acting in the capacity of guide, was
satisfied they had stayed long enough, and had often " repeated that
there was no safety in the bottom of the crater for one moment,"
and that " the fire would often run over ten or more acres in a few
moments." In such a case destruction wquld be inevitable, and from
what I myself have seen, I can readily believe that his opinion is
correct. The usual course is for the lake to boil over, discharge a
certain mass, and then sink again within its limits. It is rarely seen
to run over for more than a day at a time.

John and the natives who are in the habit of frequenting it with
strangers, tell many stories of the escapes they have made.

One trip to the floor generally satisfies the most daring, and as long
as a person remains there, he must feel in a state of great insecurity,
and in danger of undergoing one of the most horrible of deaths, m
being cut off from escape by the red molten fluid ; yet a hardihood is
acquired, which is brought about by the excitement, that gives courage
to encounter serious peril, in so novel a situation.

One of the remarkable productions of this crater is the capillary
glass, or, as it is here called, " Pole's hair." This is to be seen in the
crevices like loose tufts of fine tow ; it is to be found also over all the
plain, adhering to the bushes. The fibres of this glass are of various
degrees of fineness ; some are crimped or frizzled, others straight,
with small fine drops of glass at one end. These adhering to the
berries in the neighbourhood, make one sensible of its presence in
eating them. On the leeward side of the crater, the glass is so
abundant that the ground, in places, appeared as if covered with
cobwebs.

Where Pele's hair is found in quantities, a very fine and beautiful
pumice prevails ; it usually occurs in pieces about the size of a hazel-
nut, of a greenish yellow colour, not unlike small pieces of new dry
sponge, but so much lighter as to be blown about by the wind. The
southern bank of the crater is covered with this product for some
depth, and the sand blowing over it renders it stationary.

The day we remained at the volcano was employed by the natives
in preparing their food, by boiling it in the crevices on the plains from
which the steam issues ; into these they put the taro, &c., and close the

VOL. iv. 17

MAUNA LOA.

hole up with fern-leaves, and in a short time the food was well cooked.
All the water for drinking is obtained here by the condensation of the
stream, which gathers in small pools, and affords a supply of sweet and
soft water. From the numbers in the camp who used it, this supply
became rather scanty, but it did not entirely give out.

The crater, at night, was extremely beautiful, and we sat for a long
time watching its changing and glowing pool. The shadows thrown
by the walls of the crater seemed to reach the heavens, and gave it the
appearance of being clothed in a dark cloud ; but on looking at it
more attentively, and shutting off the glare of the crater, the stars were
perceived shining brightly.

About four o'clock a loud report was heard from the direction of the
boiling lake, which proved to have been caused by a large projecting
point of the black ledge near the lake having fallen in and disappeared.

The lowest temperature, during the night, was 48°. There was a
light wind and no dew.

At dawrn on the morning of the 18th, the signal called us to make
preparations for our journey, and as all things had now been more
systematically arranged, we anticipated less difficulty in our onward
journey. The natives seemed to be all in good spirits, and moved with
alacrity.

Our camp hitherto (as all camps are) had been beset with hangers-
on, in the shape of wives, mothers, and children, who were not only
much in the way of those to whom they belonged, but were great con-
sumers of the food the natives had supplied themselves with for the
journey. As we already entertained apprehensions of a scarcity
prompt measures were taken by Dr. Judd to get rid of our troublesome
guests, which we succeeded in doing, though not without some diffi-
culty, and a low monotonous growling, that indicated much displeasure
on the part of the fair sex.

The divisions now set off, and our host was less mob-like, partly
owing to the impossibility of going in squads, the paths having become
more contracted.

The water that I have mentioned as being found in the small pools,
the product of condensation, was exhausted before we left the crater.
This was in consequence of the natives having filled their calabashes;
and we had particularly instructed our servants and the sailors to do
the same. The former provided themselves; but the latter, sailor-like,
preferred to take their chance of meeting with it on the road, rat'ier
than carry a load for their future supply. I discovered, after we
started, that they were unprovided, but was informed that there was,
within about two miles, an old canoe which \vould be found full of

MAUNA LOA. 131

water. On our arrival at it, we found that the natives, who had pre-
ceded us, after supplying themselves had emptied out the rest.

Our route was taken at first and for a few miles in a due west line,
for the top of Mauna Loa, over the extensive plain surrounding the
volcano ; it then deviated to the southward, over an ancient lava-bed,
very much broken, that appeared never to have been traversed before.
We now became for the first time acquainted with clinkers. To
describe these, it is merely necessary to say, they are like the scoria
from a foundry, only instead of being the size of the fist, they are from
one to ten feet square, and armed on all sides with sharp points ; they
are for the most part loose, and what makes them still more dangerous,
is that a great deal of the vitreous lava is among them. Of the origin
of these immense masses and their extent, I shall have occasion to
speak hereafter : suffice it for the present to say, there never was more
difficult or unpleasant ground to travel over.

Our guide Puhano of Puna, who we understood had accompanied
Douglass and Lowenstern on their ascents, now took the lead, but it
soon appeared that he knew little of the route. I therefore, in company
with Mr. Brinsmade, took the lead, compass in hand ; and after walking
over the broken and torn-up ground, we turned again towards the hill-
side, and began a rapid ascent through a belt of long grass, where the
rock was covered with white clay, and seldom to be seen. This part
appeared to have suffered much from drought; for in passing along we
came to several narrow and dry water-courses, but met with no water.

At two o'clock we had nearly reached the upper limit of the woods,
and as the clouds began to pass over, and obscure the path, we deter-
mined to halt and encamp. We made several fires along the route, in
order to guide those behind, and as a mark for the stragglers; bushes
were also broken off, and their tops laid in the direction we were going,
by the natives ; and I likewise had the trees blazed, as a further indica-
tion, well known to our men. Chronometer sights were taken here,
and the altitude by barometer was five thousand and eighty-six feet.

During the day, the reason that had induced the natives to empty
the water out from the canoe, became evident in their anxiety to sell
us water. My friend the consul had hired an especial bearer for his
calabash of water, determining that he would have a sufficient supply.
By our watching and cautioning the old man who had it in charge,
he became somewhat alarmed and unsteady, as I thought also from
fatigue. When he had arrived within a short distance of the camp,
he stumbled on a smooth place, fell, and broke the calabash into
numerous pieces. Those who were coming up, seeing the accident,
rushed to partake of its contents, but the fluid quickly disappeared in

132 MAUNALOA.

the loose and absorbent lava. This was a dreadful blow to my friend's
feelings, and produced much laughter among us, in which the consul
himself at length joined; although I must confess I was somewhat of
his opinion, that it had been done designedly, either to secure the sale
of that belonging to others, or to get rid of the load, which had been a
great annoyance and trouble to the bearer all day, and for which he
had already been paid.

On the baggage coming up, Mr. Eld reported a deserter, who was
brought up for trial, and an investigation had, in order to make an
example of him. He was a swarthy and diminutive-looking person,
with rather a good countenance, but it was just then so distorted with
fright, that it was impossible to look at him without laughing. It
appeared that he had been left by his chief at the crater, to superin-
tend some hogs and provisions that belonged to the party; while thus
employed, Mr. Eld, the officer in charge of the rear, wanted another
person to carry on the clock-case, as one of the four that were at-
tached to it had not been forthcoming ; he in consequence had pressed
the culprit into the service against his will, taking him from the station
where his chief had placed him. On the route over some of the
roughest part, seeing this man somewhat fatigued, Mr. Eld kindly
relieved him for a few moments, of which he took advantage and
disappeared. Mr. Eld immediately left the load and gave chase, but
in a few moments he stumbled and fell over the clinkers, by which he
received a contusion on the knee; rising with the prospect of having
to aid in transporting the clock, he discovered the delinquent concealed
under a neighbouring bush, and immediately forced him to return to
his load, and thus brought him on. Mr. Eld, on hearing the facts of
the case told by the native, interceded in his behalf, and Dr. Judd,
after giving him an admonition, set him at liberty to return to his
charge at the volcano.

We were now for a long time enveloped in mist, for we had reached
the region of clouds. The thermometer at 6 p. M., stood at 54° ; the
dew-point at 44°. Instead of trade-winds from the northeast, we had
a mountain breeze from the west, which caused the temperature to fall
to 43°, and produced a feeling of great cold, being a fall of forty
degrees since we left the coast.

The men whom we had hired just before leaving Hilo, belonged,
as will be recollected, to Kanuha's district, and engaged to find them-
selves in food; but many of them had been so improvident of th^ir
supply that it was now found to be gone, and as many as twenty of
them were without any thing to eat. When this became known, we
proposed to supply them with rations at the original cost of the poe,

MAUNALOA. 133

which we had for the men hired of Pea; but no argument would
induce them to accept it on these terms, and they went round begging
and borrowing all they could from those who were supplied. The
reason that they would not buy the poe I found was, the dislike they
had to take up any of their wages before the whole became due, and
in consequence many of them went hungry. It was amusing to watch
some of these, who frequently would seat themselves near a party
who were eating ; but it did not produce any effect upon those who
had plenty, as they knew the reason of their being without food.
From what I saw of these islanders on this trip, I am not disposed to
believe them so hospitable, or so thoughtful of each other, as the Tahi-
tians or Samoans. Selfishness is a predominant trait in the character
of the Hawaiians, and when they are thus associated together, it
shows itself more strongly than at other times.

At sunrise on the 19th, we had the temperature at 48°.
As the ascent was now becoming laborious, we selected and left the
things we had no immediate use for, to follow us by easy stages. We
then took a diagonal direction through the remaining portion of the
woods. By one o'clock we had lost all signs of trees, and were sur-
rounded by low scraggy bushes : the change of vegetation became
evident, not only in species, but in size ; we also passed through exten-
sive patches that had been destroyed by fire. Sandalwood was seen,
not as a tree, but a low shrub.

During the day we had passed extensive caves, in all of which I
had search made for water. These often lead a long distance under
ground, and some of the men passed in at one end and out at another.
Intending to stop on Sunday not far above these caves, calabash-
tops were left in one or two where water was found to be dropping, in
hopes by this means to procure a small supply ; but on returning the
next day, it was found that very little had accumulated. These caves
or tunnels had apparently been caused by a flow of lava down the side
of the mountain, which on cooling had left the upper part arched or
vaulted, the fluid running off at its lower extremity or opening and
spreading itself over the surface. The opening into them was formed
by the roof having fallen in, and partly blocked up the tunnel. At no
great distance from the opening, the floor on each side was smooth
and closely resembled the flow of the lava on the surface. These
openings were usually known by the quantity of raspberry and other
bushes around them ; and they reminded me of the caverns in limestone
districts.

Between two and three o'clock, we again became enveloped in
clouds, and it was necessary for us to redouble our precautions against

M

134 MAUNA LOA.

losing the track. Fires were again resorted to, which at short dis-
tances could be seen in the intervals of mist.

Deeming it advisable to make an early halt, we stopped shortly after
three o'clock, to allow all the baggage to come up. Notwithstanding
the size of our party, there was no perceptible track left or any thing
by which to he guided, but the smoke of the fires, or occasionally a
broken shrub, as a finger-post. All the ground was hard metallic-
looking lava, and around nothing but a dreary waste. The voice too
became fainter, as the atmosphere grew more rarefied. Our encamp-
ment was called the Sunday Station, on account of our having re-
mained quietly here on that day. The altitude given by the barometer
was six thousand and seventy-one feet, at which we found ourselves
above the region of clouds, and could look down upon them.

At night, on pulling off my clothes, I noticed the quantity of electri-
cal fluid elicited, which continued for some time to affect the objects
about me, particularly a large guanaco-robe I had to sleep in.

This afternoon, we found that it would be impossible to drive the
bullock any further ; for the animal began to suffer from fatigue
and the want of water, our supply of which was almost exhausted ;
he was accordingly killed. The natives were now hawking water
about the camp at half a dollar the quart. I am not aware that
they sold any at that extravagant price ; but I saw some of them in
possession of handkerchiefs and old shirts, which I understood had been
given for it.

Ragsdale, one of our guides, who had been despatched to Papapala
from the crater to purchase provisions, now joined us, with two more
guides. He brought information that he had obtained forty goats,
and that we should receive full supplies. This was encouraging news,
for I felt somewhat doubtful from the first in relying on the natives,
and their behaviour at Kilauea was not calculated to raise my opinion
of them. I found also, as we ascended the mountain, that even light
loads had become heavy, and those of any weight, insupportable ; that
our time was rapidly passing, and we had a long way yet before we
reached the summit; and that the native food was nearly exhausted,
while the supply for our own men was rapidly consuming.

The two guides that Ragsdale brought with him, were perfectly fa-
miliar with the mountain. One of them was a celebrated bird-catcher,
called Keaweehu, who had been the guide of Lowenstern, and knew
where water was to be obtained ; but it was ten miles distant. He
said, that if he was furnished with calabashes and natives to carry
them, he would be able to bring us a supply by the afternoon, if he left
before the day dawned ; and that it would be two days before we could

MAUNALOA. 135

get any snow, even if it were found on the mountain. It had never
crossed my mind, that there was any probability of this latter re-
source failing us ; I had in truth relied upon it with confidence, and
concluded that in the event of only one snow-storm we should be en-
abled to find some place for a deposit, to save enough water for all our
wants.

We now numbered nearly three hundred persons in camp, with
but a few small calabashes containing five or six gallons of water ;
and all, more or less, felt the effects of the rarefied air. Mr. Bracken-
ridge had a violent attack of the mountain-sickness, although one of
the stoutest of the party ; many of the natives felt unwell ; and we all
began to experience great soreness about the eyes, and a dryness of the
skin.

At midday I found it impossible to obtain the dew-point with one of
Pouillet's hygrometers, but after the clouds reached us in the afternoon
it was found at 10°.

Dr. Judd had his hands full administering to the wants of all ; but his
spirits, always buoyant and cheerful, made every one comfortable and
happy around him.

Old Keaweehu told us that we had taken the wrong road to the
mountain, and that Puhano was not at all acquainted with the right
road, — a fact we had long before discovered ; that if we had come by
way of Papapala, he would have been able to conduct us by a route
we should have found water every few miles. Ragsdale was now sent
off to meet the party from the ship, with orders for them to take the
route now indicated, and for him to act as their guide.

Sergeant Stearns, in his excursions on the flanks of the party, shot
some mountain geese, and whether to impute it to the appetite created
by the mountain air, or the flavour of the bird, they certainly proved
a great delicacy.

The 20th, being Sunday, was a day of rest: the natives requested
that it might be so, and I readily yielded to their wishes. I was
anxious, however, to ascertain the state of the mountain, and whether
there was any snow to be had on its top, for I now felt satisfied that
the want of water would prove the greatest difficulty I should have to
encounter, in remaining there as long as I intended.

Lieutenant Budd received orders to set out with a few attendants
at daylight ; but after making his preparations, and having all things
ready, the natives refused to accompany him on account of its being
Sunday, as they said. I am, however, inclined to believe that fear
had something to do with it, for they never knew of any one having
gone up this mountain before, and thought me mad for taking so

136 MAUNALOA.

much trouble to ascend it. They said that I must be in pursuit of
gold and silver, or something to sell for money, as I never would take
so much trouble, and spend so much money, unless it were to acquire
great riches. In the morning Dr. Judd had religious service with
the natives, and the day was passed without work. It was a most
beautiful day: the atmosphere was mild, and the sun shone brightly
on all below us. We enjoyed a clear and well-defined horizon, the
clouds all floating below us in huge white masses, of every variety of
form, covering an area of a hundred or more miles ; passing around
as they entered the different currents, where some acquired a rotary
motion that I had never before observed. The steam-cloud above the
volcano was conspicuous, not only from its silvery hue, but by its
standing firm, like an immense rock, while all around and beneath it
were in motion. The vault overhead was of the most cerulean blue,
extending to and blending with the greenish tint of the horizon ; while
beneath the clouds, the foreground and distant view of the island was
of a dark green. The whole scene reminded me of the icy fields of
the Southern Ocean; indeed the resemblance was so strong, that it
seemed only to require the clouds to have angular instead of cumular
shapes, to have made the similarity complete. It was perceived, that
as masses of clouds met they appeared to rebound, and I seldom saw
them intermingle ; they would lie together with their forms somewhat
compressed, and their outlines almost as well preserved as when
separated and alone. After three o'clock, when the sun was retiring,
the clouds advanced up the mountain-side, and finally we became
immersed in them. This happened on both days at nearly the same
hour.

During the day, I succeeded in obtaining sets of observations for
latitude and longitude. I experienced for the first time much fatigue
in holding the instruments. The barometer and thermometer were
observed throughout the day at the hours arranged with the observa-
tory at Hilo.

In the evening we were much gratified at receiving fifteen gallons
of water, which the natives had brought ten miles in open-mouthed
vessels, over the rough mountain roads : this they do by placing some
fern-leaves on the top of the water, when it carries as well as a solid,
and will bear much agitation without spilling. Though a very small
supply for our necessities, it was a great satisfaction to know that it
was now within reach of us. Partially relieved from this pressing
difficulty, our attention was turned to the fuel, and I at once saw the
necessity of providing some means for procuring a supply, as we were
now at one of the last points where it was to be obtained. We were

MAUNALOA. 137

certainly two, if not three days' journey from the summit, and an
ascent of eight thousand feet was still to be accomplished.

After dark the mist cleared off, when we saw the majestic cloud of
the volcano hanging as though illuminated in its position. This is
one of the best guides for the mountain, both by night and by day;
any one who visits Mauna Loa, and the crater, cannot but admire this
constant emblem of the destructive elements below, fitted as it is,
from its purity, grace, and majestic appearance, to blend harmo-
niously with the blue vault above.

It was determined to fix a post here, in order to forward supplies
of wood and articles of provision as they came from below. Pea, our
chief, was accordingly ordered to select a site which would answer
this purpose.

On Monday, 21st, we set out at an earjy hour. The ascent now
became much steeper than any we had hitherto experienced, for the
whole face of the mountain consisted of one mass of lava, that had
apparently flowed over in all directions from the summit. The sun
shone brightly, and his rays seemed to fall with increased power on
the black lava. No wind was stirring, and the exhaustion consequent
on the rarefied air we were breathing, made the labour of climbing
very fatiguing; many suffered from nausea and headache, and the
desire for water redoubled in both whites and natives. For water
they could no longer find a substitute in berries, as they had previously
done, for that fruit had disappeared, and the only vegetation left was a
few tufts of grass.

About noon, Dr. Judd volunteered to proceed with the guide to
ascertain if there was any snow, and at what distance. It was agreed
that we should continue to move on in the same direction, and encamp
when we found we could get no higher. Most of the party were now
lying about on the rocks, with the noonday sun pouring on them ; a
disposition to sleep, and a sensation and listlessness similar to that pro-
duced by sea-sickness, seemed to prevail. I felt the former strongly
myself, and enjoyed as sound an hour's sleep on the hard lava as I
have ever had. The burdens had become intolerably heavy, and all
complained of their inability to carry them. The use of the sextant
had become still more fatiguing than the day before, causing me much
pain to hold it. From what I myself experienced, I was satisfied that
every one's strength had decreased nearly one-half.

We managed, after an hour's rest, to go on two miles further, and
then encamped. No place offered where we could drive a peg for the
tents, and loose blocks of lava were resorted to, to confine the cords.
The principal inducement for stopping at this spot was the discovery

VOL iv. M2 18

138 MAUNALOA.

of a large tunnel, or cave, in which the men could be accommodated,
and which was at a sufficient distance from the Sunday Station for a
day's journey. This station was afterwards known as the Recruiting
Station, because all the sick and wounded from the higher stations
were sent here as to an hospital.

Long after \ve had finished our arrangements for the night, and
even after it had become dark, we looked in vain for Dr. Judd and his
companion. We therefore lighted our fires as a signal to him, and
were soon rejoiced to see him safely back. He brought with him a
small snow-ball, and the agreeable intelligence that we should find
abundance of snow on the top of the mountain, provided we reached
it next day ; for he told us it was melting fast. He had travelled for
more than four hours and a half before he reached the snow, and had
been an hour and a half returning down hill, on a run. The point
where he met the snow appeared to him to be about equidistant from
our present camp and the summit of the mountain.

I now felt that the troubles of my scientific operations were begin
ning, for I found that one of the iron cross-bars of the lower part of
the pendulum-frame, which had been entrusted to a native to carry,
had been broken into two pieces. To provide, however, for mishaps
of this description, I had brought the armourer of the Vincennes with
me. There would have been no difficulty in his mending it under
favourable circumstances ; but, fearing that in our present position he
might not succeed, I at once despatched a messenger to the ship, with
orders to have a new one made and forwarded as speedily as possible.

Although it was somewhat encouraging to know that snow had
been found, yet we were apprehensive it might disappear before we
could reach it. On holding a consultation, it was thought best that all
- those who were not absolutely needed for the intended operations on
the mountain should make a hasty trip to the top, or terminal crater,
and then return to the coast; for our provisions, as well as water,
•were so low, as in all probability to reduce us to a very short allow-
ance. It was, therefore, determined, that the consul, Mr. Bracken-
ridge, Mr. Drayton, and Mr. Elliott, should each be supplied with a
day's allowance, and go on at an early hour to the summit, unen-
cumbered, in order to satisfy themselves with a sight of it, return
before night to the Recruiting Station, and thence proceed down the
mountain. I resolved to go on with a few of the instruments, to choose
an encampment on the summit.

The Recruiting Station was left under charge of Lieutenant Budd,
and it was afterwards made a depot for our stores, &c.

All the parties set out at an early hour on their several tracks and

MAUNA LOA. 139

duties, while some of the officers forwarded the heavy articles ; for we
now found the necessity of advancing, step by step, towards the
summit. The main difficulty was the want of water at the depot, but
this I was in hopes might be supplied from above by the return of the
parties who were to carry up the instruments, provisions, and wood.

My party consisted of the guide, Keaweehu, twelve Kanakas, and
seven of our own men, including the sergeant. At about twelve
o'clock we reached a spot where the guide pointed out a few half-
burnt sticks, as the place where Lowenstern had cooked his dinner.
As the two Kanakas who had charge of the bundles of wood had
contrived to lighten their loads very much by dropping part of it by
the way, I gave them orders to take the wood he had left to cook our
supper.

Mr. Brackenridge passed me on his way from the crater. From
him I ascertained we were yet three and a half miles from the terminal
point. I gave him instructions to repair to the lower country, as there
was nothing for him to do in this barren region.

The wind blew a strong gale from the southwest, and was piercingly
cold : the thermometer, at 3 p. M., showed 25°. For some time pre-
vious, I had been obliged to keep the Kanakas before me, to prevent
them from throwing their loads down and deserting ; but I found them
unable to go any further ; being nearly naked, they were suffering
much. Seeking a place of shelter under a high bank of clinkers, partly
protected from the wind, I allowed them to deposit their loads, and
gave them permission to return, upon which they seemed actually to
vanish ; I never saw such agility displayed by them before.

As soon as the natives who were on the road saw those from the
upper party coming down, they could no longer be induced to face the
cold, and all deserted at once. The mountain became in consequence
a scene of confusion ; being strewn with instruments, boxes, pieces of
the portable house, tents, calabashes, &c., which the natives had
dropped.

I now found myself with the guide and nine men, with nothing for a
covering but the small tent used for the instruments, and the coming
on of a snow-storm made it very necessary to have something to
protect us. The thermometer had gone down to 18°, and most of the
men were much affected with the mountain-sickness, with headache
and fever, and were unable to do any thing. I felt quite unwell
myself from the same cause, having a violent throbbing of the
temples and a shortness of breath, that were both painful and dis-
tressing. With the few men that remained able to work, I began

140 MAUNALOA.

building a circular wall of the clinkers, to enable us to spread what
little canvass we had, over it ; all the blankets we could spare were
hung inside, which I hoped would keep us from being frozen. After
succeeding in this, which occupied us till dark, we made a fire to
prepare our scanty supper, and some tea for the sick. I now dis-
covered that three of the men were absent ; and on inquiry, found
that they had gone down, in hopes of finding my tent, which they
supposed had been left about a mile below. One may judge of my
uneasiness, as it was pitchy dark, and there was no trace whatever of
a track, or any thing by which they could find their way back, over
many dangerous chasms. I had barely wood enough to heat the
water for the sick, and no more than a piece or two of candle, without
any lantern, and therefore no obvious means of making a signal.
However, as necessity is the mother of invention, I turned my clothes
out of the calabash, and fastening a piece of a cotton shirt over it, made
quite a respectable lantern : this was placed on the most conspicuous
point. After the light had been extinguished several times, and a
series of difficulties encountered in relighting it, we succeeded in
establishing our lighthouse ; and though a feeble one, it had the de-
sired effect. The men, when they first saw it, had already strayed
off the track ; and had it not been for the lantern, would not have
been able to join us again. They came back, crawling on their hands
and knees ; and had travelled thus for most of the distance. The
whole time they had been absent, was two hours and a half. Although
I felt very much displeased with their departure without permission, I
could not find fault with them, — so much was I rejoiced to see them in
safety ; and when I knew they had incurred all this fatigue and risk to
make me more comfortable.

The snow now began to fall fast. My steward, from his thoughtful-
ness, had an ample supply of tea, which he had carried in his knap-
sack to save it from being plundered ; and consequently we had enough
to supply all.

The supper being ended, we stowed ourselves away within the
circular pen ; and while the men kept passing their jokes about its
comforts, the wind blew a perfect hurricane without. I was glad to
find the spirits of those who were sick, began to revive. The ther-
mometer had fallen to 15°. The height found by the barometer was
thirteen thousand one hundred and ninety feet.

All were soon fast asleep ; and although there was scarcely a foot of
level rock, they seemed to rest as comfortably as possible. I had little
inclination to sleep ; for difficulties seemed to increase upon me, and I

MAUNALOA. 141

felt some uneasiness about one of my men, named Longley, who had
not come up with us. The men all said, that he had returned to the
Recruiting Station ; having been unwell and unable to proceed.

At about four o'clock in the morning, the snow had accumulated in
such quantities on our canvass roof, that it broke in upon us, bringing
down also some of the stones. This was a disagreeable accident ; and
after escaping from beneath the ruin, it became necessary to take the
covering off and clear the snow out of the pen, which was nearly full.
This was the work of nearly an hour of unpleasant labour; but it was
much more easily accomplished, than getting ourselves warm again.
I need scarcely say, I passed a most uncomfortable night.

When daylight came, the storm had somewhat abated in violence,
and I despatched the men for the tents and wood, a part of which had
been dropped by one of the natives within half a mile of our position.
A man soon returned with the wood, and another brought forward a
calabash, in which we fortunately found some provisions, and we soon
had what we little expected, something to eat, and what the men called
a comfortable breakfast.

It was very pleasant to find the sick ones reviving, and good-humour
and cheerfulness so predominant among them that they seemed ready
for further exertions. We had now all that was necessary to push on
to the summit. I left a flag on a rocky peak near by ; and this was
afterwards called the Flag Station.

About eleven o'clock we set out, and were obliged to cross a mass of
clinkers, which our guide had hitherto endeavoured to avoid. When,
after two hours' laborious walking, we reached the top or terminal
crater, it still continued snowing in squalls, with a keen southwest wind
driving in our faces ; the ground being covered a foot deep with snow,
rendered it more dangerous and irksome to pass over such loose and
detached masses.

From intelligence that had been brought me by the gentlemen who
had gone before and taken a hasty look into the crater, it was thought
that the descent into it would prove easy, and that I might encamp on
its floor ; but I found after travelling a long distance over the rugged
surface, that it was impossible to succeed in making a descent. I
was, therefore, compelled to return, and choose the smoothest place
for our encampment I could find. It was after four o'clock, and but
little time was left for the men to return. As soon as they had pitched
the tent, within about sixty feet of the ledge of the crater, using large
blocks of lava to confine its cords, I sent them off under charge of
the guide to the Flag Station, and remained with my servants only.
By six o'clock I thought that we had made ourselves comfortable

142 MAUNA LOA.

for the night, and that the storm had so far moderated that it would
not trouble us ; but a short hour proved the contrary. Our fire was
dispersed, candles blown out, and the tent rocking and flapping as if it
\vould go to pieces, or be torn asunder from its fastenings, and disap-
pear before the howling blast. I now felt that what we had passed
through on the previous night was comfort in comparison to this. The
wind had a fair sweep over us, and as each blast reached the opposite
side of the crater, the sound which preceded its coming was at times
awful ; the tent, however, continued to stand, although it had many
holes torn in it, and the ridge-pole had chafed through its top.

It was truly refreshing, after the night we had passed, to see the sun
rising clear. It seemed quite small, and was much affected by hori-
zontal refraction, as it appeared above the sea, forming a long horizon-
tal ellipse of two and a half diameters, first enlarging on one side and
then on another. After it had reached the height of two diameters
above the horizon, the ellipse gradually inclined on the right, and in a
few moments afterwards its longer axis became vertical, and it then
enlarged at the bottom, somewhat in the form of an egg.

My servants fruitlessly attempted to make a fire ; after they had
exhausted all their matches without success, we each took turns to
ignite a stick, after the native fashion, but with no more success ; the
nearest approximation to it was plenty of smoke. After making many
vain attempts, and having had but little sleep, \ve took to our blankets
again, to await the coming of some of the party from below.

At about eleven o'clock on the 23d, Drs. Judd and Pickering pulled
open the tent, and found us all three wrapped up in our blankets.
They had passed the night at the Flag Station.

On inquiry, I found that Longley had not been seen for the last two
days and nights ; and fears were entertained that he had missed his
way and perished.

It might, at first view, appear strange that any one could be lost on
a bare mountain side, with nothing to impede the sight ; but, shut out
the lower country, and one would be very much at a loss in which
direction to go ; the surface is so much broken, and so many spots
resemble each other, that even an accurate observer might soon be-
come bewildered.

The last time Longley had been seen was by Mr. Brackcnridgc,
who encountered him near the path, sick, and had carried him to a
sheltered spot, and covered him with some of his warm clothing.
Lieutenant Budd, on being informed of it, had endeavoured to persuade
several natives to go in search of him ; but none could be induced to
do so, as they thought it impossible to find their way buck in the dark.

MAUNA LOA. 143

A search was set on foot in the morning, but had continued without
success.

The storm which with us had been snow, was rain at the Recruiting
Station, and they were in hopes of getting from it a supply of water ;
but in the morning the lava-rock appeared as dry as before.

The news Dr. Judd brought was far from encouraging. Besides
the disappearance of Longley, I learned that nearly all the natives had
deserted the boxes ; that many of them had not even' reached the
Recruiting Station, and that Ragsdale and his forty goats had not
come; nor were there any tidings of the party from the ship. The
natives hearing of our distresses, and probably exaggerating them, had
refused to furnish any thing unless at exorbitant prices. The officers
had very properly rejected the whole that was offered ; for, although
our allowance was small, we trusted that the provisions from the ship
would arrive in a day or two at farthest.

I despatched a messenger to desire that the men coming from the
ship should be employed first in hunting up Longley, although I enter-
tained little hope of his being found alive, exposed as he must have been
to two such severe nights and days, without food or covering from the
storm.

After getting a fire lighted, and something to eat, Drs. Judd, Pick-
ering, and myself, set out to reconnoitre the crater for a more suitable
place in which to establish the tents ; but, after much search, we found
none that offered so many facilities as that I had accidentally chosen
the first night. Dr. Pickering parted from us, and was the first to
make a descent into the crater.

Nothing can exceed the devastation of the mountain : the whole area
of it is one mass of lava, that has at one time been thrown out in a fluid
state from its terminal crater. There is no sand or other rock ; nothing
but lava, on whichever side the eye is turned. To appearance it is of
different age?, some of very ancient date, though as yet not decom-
posed, and the alternations of heat and cold, with rain and snow, seem
to have united in vain for its destruction. In some places, it is quite
smooth, or similar to what has already been described as the pahoihoi,
or " satin stream ;" again, it appears in the form of clinkers, which are
seldom found in heaps, but lie extended in beds for miles in length,
sometimes a mile wide, and occasionally raised from ten to twenty
feet above the surface of the surrounding lava.

The place where these clinkers appear to me to have been formed is
in the crater itself; there they have been broken up by contending
forces, and afterwards ejected with the more fluid lava, and borne

144 M A U N A L O A.

upon its surface down the mountain side, until they became arrested in
their course by the accumulating weight, or stopped by the excessive
friction that the mass had to overcome. In this way the beds, or rather
streams, of them might have been formed, which would accumulate for
miles, and continue to increase as the crater discharged this description
of scoria. What strengthened my opinion in this respect was, that
there were, apparently, streams of pahoihoi coming out from underneath
the masses of clinkers wherever they had stopped. The crater may be
likened to an immense cauldron, boiling over the rim, and discharging
the molten mass and scoriae which has floated on its top.

This day we received news of the arrival of Lieutenant Alden at the
Recruiting Station, with the detachment from the ship ; but he had
brought no provisions, and none had yet reached the station. This
arrival, therefore, instead of supplying our wants rather increased them.

The small transit was brought up this day, and, to add to my vexa-
tions, on opening it I found the level broken. I did not stop to inquire
by what accident this had happened, but within ten minutes despatched
an order to the ship for another, which was distant sixty miles.

We received a supply of wood from below, and sent down water in
return. John Downhaul, a native, who was one of the party, desired
permission to return to the ship, as, according to his own account, he
was almost dead. Dr. Judd had met him with a number of natives in
a cave, as he came up, the morning after the storm. It appeared, from
John's account, that he had advised some of the natives to stop and
take care of him in their hasty retreat, but that he had only retained
them with him by threatening them with the evil spirits of the
mountain. .When morning came, they left him. He had been very
sick, vomiting and bringing up blood, and felt unable to move any
further up the mountain ; but having my portfolio, he did not wish to
intrust it to the care of another. Dr. Judd prescribed for him, and
sent him down, with directions to proceed to Hilo. On his way down,
Downhaul met one of the carriers of the provisions for the consul's
party, whom he stopped and began to question ; finding that he was
loaded with provisions, and being quite hungry, he told him to put down
the load, for he was the " tommodore's man," and must be obeyed, and
accordingly helped himself without stint, inducing the native to partake
also. When the man reached Mr. Brinsmadc, the articles were found
to be very much diminished in bulk, and on inquiry, the native at once
told the whole truth, and how he had been deceived.

In the evening, at 6 p. M., the thermometer stood at 29°, and during
the night it fell to 22°.

M A U N A L O A.

145

Christmas-day set in quite stormy, with snow and a gale from the
southwest ; it was very cold, and the only way we had of keeping
warm was to wrap ourselves up with blankets and furs. We had just
wood enough to heat a little chocolate.

The small instruments having arrived, I began some of the obser-
vations.

While the rest were employed in making our tents as tight, as pos-
sible, in the one Dr. Judd and myself occupied, we discovered a great
deposit of moisture, which, on examination, was found to be caused by
steam issuing through a crack in the lava. On placing a thermometer
in it, it rose to 68°. The tent was forty feet from the edge of the pre-
cipice of the crater, and it was not surprising that the steam should find
its way up from the fires beneath. As it somewhat annoyed us, we
pounded and filled the seam full of broken pieces of lava. This circum-
stance led to the discovery of a small piece of moss, the only living
thing, either animal or vegetable, that was found within six miles dis-
tance, or within four thousand feet of the height of the terminal crater.
This moss was here nourished by the steam that escaped, which sup-
plied it with warmth and moisture.

This day we made many experiments on the temperature of boiling
water : the mean of the observations gave the boiling temperature at
188°, being five hundred and sixty feet to each degree of temperature.
At the volcano of Kilauea, I had found it less than five hundred and
fifty feet to each degree; while the result of careful experiments at the
Sunday Station, gave five hundred and fifty-five feet to the degree, and
at the Recruiting Station, five hun-
dred and fifty-eight feet.

We also employed ourselves in
building a high stone wall around
a space large enough to contain the
houses and tents, when they should
all arrive, having found the necessity
of it to protect ourselves from the f
violent winds. Besides this, each
tent was to be surrounded by a se-
parate wall, up as hi^h as the eaves,
when completed. The plan was
as exhibited in the annexed wood-
cut.

1. Pendulum-house. 2. Captain Wilkes's tent. 3. Officers' tent. 4, 5 and G. Men's

quarters. 7. Magnetic house. 8. Observatory. 9. Store-house. 10. Wood-house. 11.

Kitchen. 12. Thermometer and barometer house. 13. Entrance.
VOL. IV. N 19

146 MAUN A LOA.

On the morning of the 20th, news was brought that Longley had
been found by Messrs. Alden and Eld : when discovered, he was
almost unable to speak, and quite delirious. He was carefully
attended to by these officers, who were fortunately provided with the
means of making him comfortable at once from their stores, a circum-
stance which probably saved his life. Suitable men were allotted to
watch over him. He was found lying in a hole in the rock, with his
hat, pea-jacket, and mittens on : his water-flask was hanging to his
neck, just as he had left the encampment three days before. He
complained constantly, in a low tone, that some person had driven
him out of his house.

I cannot give a better idea of the state of this mountain, than the
fact, that Longley, who had been missing three days and three nights,
was finally found lying near the route which had been travelled over
by thirty or forty men twice or three times each day, many of whom
were actually in search of him.

Some of the boxes now began to make their appearance, by the aid
of the sailors from the ship ; but the provisions had* not arrived, and
the allowance was again reduced. Most of the men were reported
as without shoes, having worn out those they left the ship with ; and
being barefooted, could not move over the sharp vitreous lava. Many
of them were likewise said to be ill with the mountain-sickness.
Wood was brought up, and water sent down to the lower station, in
exchange.

The wind had been fresh throughout the day ; but towards night
it began to increase, and by eight o'clock we had another violent gale
from the southwest. I do not think I ever passed such a night : it
blew a perfect hurricane for several hours, causing an incessant slam-
ming, banging, and flapping of the tents, as though hundreds of
persons were beating them with clubs. These noises, added to the
howling of the wind over the crater, rendered the hours of darkness
truly awful.

The two other tents were blown down, but mine stood firm. The
men lay under the fallen tents, and were made fur more comfortable
after the accident. It was impossible to stand against the gusts ; and
we watched all night, for no one could sleep. The thermometer fell
to 17° inside the tent ; and water in the bags, under my pillow, froze.
About three o'clock, the wind began to moderate ; and at sunrise, we
found the temperature at 20°.

From the news received on the 25th, respecting the condition of
the men, I determined to see them myself. Dr. Judd and I therefore
set out on the morning of the 26th ; and when about two miles from

M AUN A LO A. 147

the summit, we met Lieutenant Alden, Dr. Pickering, and Mr. Eld,
who were coming up to see me, to report the condition of the men.
The account they gave of them was any thing but cheering. On the
arrival of Lieutenant Alden, I had directed that he should take an inter-
mediate post between Lieutenant Budd's Recruiting Station and the
summit crater, in order that the men belonging to one station might be
able to bring up their loads and return before night. This, Lieutenant
Alden informed me, he had done : his station was at the height of eleven
thousand eight hundred feet.

I now saw more strongly the necessity of my going down, in order
to ascertain the exact situation of things, give the men encourage-
ment, and renew the spirit with which they had left the ship, as volun-
teers. I have always found that sailors are easily encouraged ; and
by putting a light heart and cheerful face upon the times, they quickly
reassume their good spirit ; and this I found to be the case in the pre-
sent instance.

We parted ; Lieutenant Alden, Dr. Pickering, and Mr. Eld going
up to the terminal crater, while Dr. Judd and myself continued to
descend for about four miles. There we found a large number of men
in a temporary tent, lying on the panels of the portable houses: some
of them were suffering from mountain-sickness, others vomiting; some
had attacks of diarrhoea, others had not got over their forced march,
and showed me their bleeding feet and shoeless condition; all were
looking half-savage, with overgrown beards, dirty and ragged clothes,
— so totally different from their trim and neat appearance on board
ship, that I was shocked at the change produced in so short a time.

Whilst Dr. Judd administered to the sick, I spoke to those who were
well, and succeeded in animating them : they all assured me they were
"good pluck," and such I afterwards found them. They set about
mending their shoes and making sandals; and by the next day, many
were transporting small loads up the mountain side.

Poor Longley had shelter in the hollow of a rock, under a sail,
carefully attended by four of his messmates. It was affecting to see
these simple-hearted fellows depressed in spirits, and looking as if
cast away, superintending the sick man with all the care possible, illy
provided with things to make him comfortable, yet contented to wait
until they could receive relief. This we promised would reach them
before night.

I have always admired the care and attachment which sailors show
for each other; even the most reckless are constant in their attentions
to their messmates, when ill. I have never yet seen them neglect each
other under these circumstances. Many instances of their disinterest-

148 MAUN A LO A.

cdness and feeling that came under my observation on the mountain
might be mentioned, did I not feel it would be a digression from the
course of the narrative, that would not be allowable.

The only account that Longley could give me was, that being sick,
he had lain down near the path, and was unable to move afterwards:
he endeavoured to make signals to those he saw passing, but could
attract no attention.

At about four o'clock we reached the Recruiting Station, having
encountered the boxes and various articles, together with pieces of the
portable house, strewed along the way. These had been left by the
natives, who deserted en masse when those who had left me the first
night came down giving exaggerated accounts of the cold, and other
difficulties of the journey. I found Lieutenant Budd quite well, and
only a few of the men that were with him sick : they had little or no
provisions.

The difference of temperature between the altitude of fourteen
thousand and nine thousand feet was very apparent: we could now
enjoy sitting in the open air without feeling cold ; it was as if we had
passed at once from winter to spring. Although, ten days before, I
had looked upon this spot as particularly barren, being destitute of
vegetation and without water, yet, by comparison with the upper
station which we had just left, every thing now appeared comfortable.
It had been chosen, as I have said before, for a very remarkable cave,
which had now become our hospital, and which was found dry, warm,
and large enough to have accommodated the whole party. All the
sick were immediately transported here, and placed under the super-
intendence of Dr. Judd and his assistants. The men here had pro-
cured a large turtle-shell from the natives, and in commemoration of
their jaunt, engraved on it all their names, and nailed it to a staff
which they erected at the mouth of the cave.

We passed the night with Lieutenant Budd, and although the lava
floor of the tent was a rough bed, we seldom enjoyed so sound a sleep.

After arranging every thing relative to the provisions, when they
should arrive, and visiting the sick with Dr. Judd, I determined to
return to the top. The doctor remained for a day or two, to arrange
matters with the natives at the lower station, so as to have our supplies
more regularly forwarded; and also for the transportation of Longley to
the ship. Taking with me James G. Clarke, a seaman, I again started
for the summit, heavily laden with provisions. Longley was found
better, and some of the men able to move about; and in order to pre-
vent any accident by losing the direction, small flags were placed, as
we went up, within sight of each other. We reached the observatory

MAUN A LOA. 149

at the terminal crater at four o'clock, after a hard walk of six hours.
We had now three stations, viz. : the Recruiting Station, Lieutenant
Alden's, and the Flag Station, under the sergeant of marines. These
made it a more easy task to get the loads up, although it would require
a longer time.

I found they had built some part of the wall around our encamp-
ment on the summit, and being apprehensive that we were again to
have bad weather, we all joined to secure the tents more effectually
against the anticipated storm.

The cold, this day, to our feelings was intense, although the tem-
perature was not lower than 2(i°. All our exertions in carrying stone
for the wall, and violent exercise could not keep us warm. Dr. Picker-
ing came in, towards dark, half frozen, having made the circuit of the
three craters, which had occupied him nearly all day. The stream of
the last eruption, some sixty years since, was from the north crater.

The two chronometers, with the pendulum clock, and some of the
pendulum apparatus, had reached the top during the day ; and I was
rejoiced to find, on examination and comparison with the one I had,
that no difference of rate had yet taken place.

We found the experiment of enclosing the camp in with a stone
wall to succeed admirably, protecting us very much from the south-
west wind. The temperature during the night fell to 17°.

On the 2Sth the day dawned with fine weather. At sunrise the
effect of refraction was very similar to that before described. I was
again struck with the apparent smallness of the diameter of the sun
when seen in the horizon. The day continued beautifully clear, with
a very strong wind from the westward. We were employed in taking
observations, and the transit was set firmly, to get the passage of the
stars: a wall was also built around the observatory, to protect it from
the wind.

Finding there was no longer any necessity for the Flag Station to
be continued, I ordered the sergeant and party up to Pendulum Peak,
and directed Lieutenant Alden to remove to the Recruiting Station,
and that Lieutenant Budd should join me at the summit. This ar-
rangement became necessary, as the men would now unavoidably be
exposed to the cold, and had recruited so much that they could make
the trip between the two stations during the day, with loads, sleeping
at the upper or lower station. Dr. Pickering made a trip to-day into
the crater on the west side, which he found no easy task. He brought
back several specimens of lava. The night was clear, but very cold.

On the 29th we were busy putting up the pendulum apparatus. A
short time after noon, Dr. Judd again joined us with the joyful news
that the party from the ship had arrived, with sixty days' provisions

N2

150 MA UN A LOA.

for as many men. I now felt that through our own perseverance we
should succeed in obtaining our wishes, for with this supply we could
remain sufficiently long to effect my object in visiting the mountain.

Dr. Pickering left us to descend the mountain, with the intention of
ascending that of Mauna Kea with Mr. Brackenridge. The day was
much warmer than we had felt it since reaching the summit.

The fine weal her enabled us to build the wall to enclose the whole
encampment, put up the houses and tents, and attend to the observa-
tions. In a note from Lieutenant Alden, he informed me that not
more than half the men had shoes, and not more than that number
were fit for duty, partly on that account and lameness, together with
mountain-sickness. A supply of shoes, and sandals of raw hide, had
been sent for, as the men had already worn out two pairs. It was
exceedingly provoking to learn that there was much delay in getting
these articles and the provisions from the ships ; which arose, as I was
informed by letter, in consequence of the refusal of the Rev. Mr. Coan
to allow the natives to set out early on Sunday morning: he required
the officer to state that he believed our necessities were urgent before
he would consent to the natives going.

The temperature in the shade at noon was 47° ; in the sun, 70° ; and
at night it again fell to 20°.

On the 30th we had another delightful day, and improved it to the
best of our ability, by numerous observations.

The articles from below were now continually arriving. We took
advantage of the fine weather to make an excursion to the northeast,
for the purpose of seeing if I could effect a communication with the
ship by simultaneous signals ; after walking for about two hours, we
found that no view down the mountain-side could be had, as the top
of Mauna Loa was an extensive flattened dome, falling very gradually
on its northern and eastern sides.

I therefore gave up this attempt, contenting myself with the deter-
mination of the meridian distance by three chronometers.

In returning, Dr. Judd and myself passed along the edge of the
northeast crater, where we found, in a small cave that had been
thrown up, a beautiful specimen of lava, the colour of the red oxide
of iron. There was also some water in the cave.

At night, on our return, we had a visit from the old guide, Kea-
weehu, the bird-catcher, who gave us the name of the terminal crater,
as Moku-a-weo-weo, and of that south of it as Pohakuohanalei.
According to his statement, Moku-a-weo-weo emitted fire not long
after Cook's visit, and again five years since, on the north side.
When talking, the old man's face and appearance were so peculiar,
that while he was in conversation with Dr. Judd, I thought it worth

MAUNA LOA.

151

•while to obtain a camera lucida sketch of him, as he sat wrapped in
his tapa.

KEAWEEIIU.

Treble, the armourer, succeeded in mending the bar of the pen-
dulum frame, and rendered it as good as it was originally.

The thermometer stood at noon, in the sun, at 92° ; in the shade, at
55° ; and at night it fell to 13°.

The 31st was another fine day, and we continued to receive pro-
visions, wood, &c., from below, until we were well supplied. This
enabled me to issue the full ration. We were also gladdened with
letters from Honolulu, and news from the ship. They had experienced
at Honolulu, on the nights of the 23d and 24th, a very heavy storm
from the southwest, simultaneously with the one that annoyed us on
the mountain. A greater degree of cold was experienced there than
they had had for years. At Hilo, during this time, very light variable
winds and calms prevailed.

We were employed this day in erecting the pendulum-house, over
which was placed a thick hair-cloth covering, and outside of all, a
No. 2 canvass tent, surrounding the whole house, and enclosing a
stratum of air. On the outer side a wall was built up to the eaves of
the house, and all the cords drawn tightly through it.

It was with some difficulty that any level spot was found sufficiently
large to place even the pendulum-frame, and we were obliged to cut
away with our axes and chisels, a portion of the lava that was uneven,
until a suitable place was made.

The temperature at night was 17°; the weather clear and cold.

On the 1st of January, 1841, we were still erecting the pendulum-

152 MAUN A LOA.

houses, and building stone walls. Dr. Judd, the sergeant, and Brooks,
descended into the crater : they made the descent on the east bank
among large blocks of lava, and reached the bottom in about an hour.
There they were surrounded by huge clinkers, and ridges running
generally north and south in lines across the crater; between these
was the pahoihoi, or smooth lava. They passed over these obstruc-
tions to the southwest, and found in places many salts, among which
were sulphate of soda, and sulphate of lime. Four- fifths of the way
across was a hill, two hundred feet high, composed of scoria and
pumice, with fissures emitting sulphurous acid gas. To the west was
a plain full of cracks and fissures, all emitting more or less steam and
gas.

They found the west wall perpendicular: its lower strata were
composed of a gray basalt. For three-fourths of the distance up, it
had a dingy yellow colour. Above this, there are a number of thin
layers, apparently dipping to the southwest, with the slope of the
mountain.

They also visited many steam-cracks on the northeast side, from
which fumes of sulphurous acid gas were emitted ; no hydrogen was
found in the gas, which extinguished flame without producing ex-
plosion.

Specimens of sulphate of lime, carbonate of magnesia, sulphate of
ammonia, and carbonate of lime, were found in beautiful crystals by
Dr. Judd, but it was found difficult to preserve any of them in a sepa-
rate form, as they were all intermingled in their formation.

Half-past two o'clock having arrived, Dr. Judd began his return to
the bank where he had descended, and reached it after walking an hour
and a half; it required another hour to ascend. When they returned,
they appeared exhausted with their day's trip : overloaded as they
were with specimens, the ascent was more arduous.

This evening, at sunset, we had a beautiful appearance of the shadow
of the mountain, dome-shaped, projected on the eastern sky: the
colour of a light amethyst at the edges, increasing in intensity to a
dark purple in the centre; it was as distinct as possible, and the vast
dome seemed to rest on the distant horizon. The night was clear, with
moonlight, the eflect of which on the scene was beautiful: the clouds
floating below us, with the horizon above them, reminded us of the ice-
bergs and ice-fields of the Antarctic : the temperature lent its aid to the
deception.

Lieutenant Budd, with a party, joined me this day, bringing with him
the transit-level, from the ship. Towards evening I had another attack
of mountain-sickness, with much tendency of blood to the head. My

MAUNA LOA. 153

steward was also attached with severity, and several of the men ; but,
by aid of the remedies given us by Dr. Judd, the next morning found
us all much relieved.

The dew-point could not be obtained with Pouillel's hygrometer (a
capsule). Whenever this was the case, electricity was found to be
easily excited : on moving any articles of dress from the person, it
would develope itself in sparks. On examination, it was found that
our pulses varied during the day, and were very easily excited. Dr.
Judd's fluctuated from sixty to one hundred beats, Mr. Eld's from
eighty-four to one hundred and twenty, and mine from seventy-two to
one hundred and eight.

The night was favourable for observations, 'and we succeeded in
making many. The wind was from the northeast. The thermometer
at sunrise was at 20°. The sun did not rise clear, as I was in hopes it
would have done, so as to afford me an opportunity of again seeing the
refraction, and measuring it.

The 3d proved fine, and the pendulum-clock and apparatus being ar-
ranged and adjusted, the clock was put in motion, and a comparison
made with the three chronometers every two hours.

It being Sunday, and a fine day, the men were allowed to wander
about the crater; and some descended into it, bringing back many fine
specimens of lava.

During our stay on the summit, we took much pleasure and interest
in watching the various movements of the clouds; this day in par-
ticular they attracted our attention ; the whole island beneath us was
covered with a dense white mass, in the centre of which was the
cloud of the volcano rising like an immense dome. All was motion-
less, until the hour arrived when the sea-breeze set in from the
different sides of the island: a motion was then seen in the clouds
at the opposite extremities, both of which seemed apparently moving
towards the same centre, in undulations, until they became quite
compact, and so contracted in space as to enable us to see a well-
defined horizon ; at the same time there was a wind from the moun-
tain, at right angles, that was affecting the mass, and driving it
asunder in the opposite direction. The play of these masses was
at tinies in circular orbits, as they became influenced alternately by
the different forces, until the whole was passing to and from the
cenire in every direction, assuming every variety of form, shape, and
motion.

On other days clouds would approach us from the southwest, when
we had a strong northeast trade-wind blowing, coming up with their
cumulous front, reaching the height of about eight thousand feet,
VOL. iv 20

154 MAUNALOA.

spreading horizontally, and then dissipating. At limes they would be
seen lying over the island in large horizontal sheets, as white as the
purest snow, with a sky above of the deepest azure blue that fancy
can depict. I saw nothing in it approaching to blackness, at any
time.

The light from the volcano of Kilauea was exceedingly brilliant this
night. The temperature fell to 17°.

On the 4th, Lieutenant Budd began the survey of the summit of the
mountain (including the four craters), by measuring bases and planting
signals. On the return of the parties, they reported that an eruption
had taken place on the southwest side of the mountain. This was
almost too good news to be true, for to see this wonderful crater in
action was scarcely to be expected. Early on the following morning,
a party was sent to examine the spot designated.

Towards evening I began the pendulum observations, and found the
temperature of the pendulum-house variable, for which I could not ac-
count, as the outward air seemed to be excluded, and yet it varied
as though it were exposed. At daylight the thermometer had risen
to 20°.

Dr. Judd returned towards evening from the southwest side of the
mountain, but found no signs of an eruption ; thus it turned out, as
I had anticipated, a false alarm ; it served, however, to give us more
excitement.

Several large fissures were discovered on this jaunt, and a small
crater lying south of the large one. The report of the eruption in all
probability originated from the southwest clouds being illuminated by
the setting sun, a phenomenon which was afterwards often observed.

This party also descended into the crater of Pohakuohanalei, into
which a stream of lava had run from that of Moku-a-weo-weo. This
stream looked like a cascade formed of iron, the fluid having been
transfixed before it reached the bottom. The crater is of an oval
shape; it is stratified, and seventy layers of basaltic rock were counted,
•which have evidently been deposited by the overflow of the large
crater: the guides, however, from knowledge derived from their tradi-
tions, told us it was the oldest crater, though appearances led us to a
contrary conclusion.

On the bottom of this crater the lava was found much pulverized.
Dr. Judd, finding a place with moist and rich earth, planted two
orange-seeds, which, should they take root and grow, may astonish
some future visitor. On their return they passed a hillock of recent
cinders, which was open at the top. On entering it, they found them-
selves in a beautiful cavern or hall, studded with stalactites of brown

MAUN A LOA. 155

lava, and whitened about the sides and bottom with sulphate of soda,
in a state of efflorescence. A considerable quantity of this was taken
up. It had been found in other places, but only in small quantities.

On the 5th, a large quantity of dry grass arrived from below, which
I had sent for to thatch the house, in order to preserve a more equable
temperature. This we used to stuff between the house and tent. I
also laid a thick covering of the same material over the lava floor, as
I thought it probable there might be some hollow tunnel or cavern
beneath the house. All these precautions soon produced the desired
effect by giving an equable temperature, although the outward varia-
tion still continued from 17° to 50° during the twenty-four hours.

As we were desirous of having a little fire, for the purpose of
warming our fingers when calculating or writing, we took one of the
calabashes, and by filling it with stones, converting it into a " brasero."
This answered our purpose admirably, except that we were occa-
sionally annoyed with smoke. Dr. Judd, not content with this rude
contrivance, invented a fire-place and chimney, which he built in one
corner of the tent, and which occupied all the spare room we had.
We thus were enabled to enjoy the comforts of what, on the top of
Mauna Loa, we called a good fire. How good it was, may be under-
stood when it is stated, that our allowance of fuel was three sticks of
wood per day ; and that water froze within a couple of feet of the fire,
when it was giving out the most heat.

In a former gale, one of our three barometers had been blown over,
spilling the mercury, though not injuring the tube ; being prepared for
such accidents, I filled the tube again and took a careful comparison
with the others, in the event of farther accidents.

The temperature of boiling water was again tried, and found 187° ;
the barometer stood at 18-384 in. No dew-point could be obtained.
Electricity was developed in large sparks.

Brooks, who was employed in putting up signals around the old
crater with Lieutenant Budd, brought in some fine specimens from the
north crater; among them were some having almost the appearance of
pure glass. He had found a small piece of fern in the rich earth of
the crater, which was regarded by us all as a great curiosity.

The afternoon of the 6th, the atmosphere was heavy, causing much
refraction ; there was little air stirring at the time.

The 7th, w*e continued our observations ; the temperature of the
pendulum-house now continued equable at 40°.

On the 8th, we had a change to cold, raw, and disagreeable weather;
snow began to fall, and a kona or southwest gale set in; the tempera-
ture fell soon to 20°.

156 MAUN A LOA.

At 10 p. M., I was unable to proceed with the pendulum observa-
tions ; for such was the fury of the storm, that the journeyman-clock,
with a loud beat, although within three feet of my ear, could not be
heard. I was indeed apprehensive that the whole tent, house, and
apparatus would be blown over and destroyed. The barometer indi-
cated but little change. This storm continued until sunrise of the 9th,
when it moderated. I have seldom experienced so strong a wind ; it
blew over and broke one of the barometers, although its legs had been
guarded carefully by large stones ; and the wind was so violent at
times, that it was with difficulty we could keep our footing. We
suffered the loss of three thermometers, by the frame being blown
down on which they were fastened.

Towards morning, the wind having sufficiently lulled, the pendulum
observations were continued.

Being desirous of obtaining the depth of the crater, we prepared a
long line with a plummet; and Mr. Eld was also despatched below,
to get altitude angles with a base on both sides for the elevation of
the banks. He set out at ten o'clock, with the sergeant and two men,
and passed down under the eastern bank, — the same route Dr. Judd
had taken. He described it as so steep, as to threaten them, by a
false step or the loosening of a stone, \vith being precipitated below.
They reached the bottom in less than an hour: the plummet had been
lowered, which Mr. Eld went in search of, but it had only reached
about a third of the distance down, and on signal being made, it was
lowered still further ; but the cord soon chafed through, and the plum-
met, which was the top of the ship's maul, disappeared.

Mr. Eld obtained his base and the angles of elevation of the east
bank, and then went over to the west side. The passage across the
bottom of the crater he found much as Dr. Judd had described it;
the ridges, from ten to fifty feet in height, alternating with deep
chasms and smooth pahoihoi. They were two hours crossing over,
and in imminent danger every moment of being killed by the falling
of fragments of rocks, or of being precipitated down the fissures, that
were crossed every few yards by jumping on their fragile edges,
and threatening himself and men on breaking through, with one of
the most horrible deaths. Some of the steam-cracks they were able
to approach, but others were entirely too dangerous to admit of such
proximity.

After finishing the observations, Mr. Eld directed his steps towards
the bank or wall, where he had been told it was easier to pass along ;
but he found the path quite as rugged ; and by the time they reached
the place of ascent, they were all nearly unable to proceed from fatigue.

MAUNA LOA. 157

The prospect of remaining the coining night in the cold, was sufficient
to spur them on to overcome the ascent. They were all completely
exhausted when they reached the camp at sunset.

The banks of the crater were found, by Mr. Eld's observations, to be
as follows :

West bank, 784 feet

East " 470 "

On the 1 Oth of January, we had snow again. The temperature rose
to 32° : the snow melted fast, causing excessive dampness within and
without, while other discomforts that may be imagined prevailed.
Towards night, it cleared off, the wind hauling round to the west-
ward. The temperature fell quickly to 16°, when for a few hours it
blew a perfect hurricane. I thought the pendulum-house in great
danger : it rocked to and fro, appearing at times to be lifted from the
ground, and several of its staples were drawn out. Not a person in
the camp could sleep until towards daylight, when the gale began to
abate.

These gales reminded me strongly of those we experienced among
the ice on the Antarctic cruise. I regretted I had no anemometer, to
ascertain the direction, changes and force of the wind. It is remark-
able that these severe gales all occurred during the night, beginning
in the evening and continuing until the next morning. I attempted
to ascertain the velocity of the clouds by the rate of progress of their
shadow across the crater, marking the time of the passage ; and the
greatest velocity in many trials of those from the southwest, was
about forty-seven miles an hour. It was, however, observed, in these
experiments, that the swiftness of the clouds seemed to increase in
passing over the apex of the cone or crater. Whether this was the
effect of being able to compare their movements more nearly with
fixed objects, I am not prepared to say ; but I am inclined to believe
that in some cases, as they touched the mountain-side, they were
forced upwards and over the summit, with a much greater velocity
for the first half of the crater than the last. The shortness of the
time that elapsed in passing the diameter of the crater, little more
than a mile, precludes the supposition that they had changed their
form sufficiently to alter the figure of their shadow. The wind was
blowing what would be termed a strong gale, when the experiments
were made.

On the llth, having the eprouvette mortar with me, I tried some
experiments on the velocity of sound, comparing it with our measured

158 MAUNA LOA.

bases and the sides of the triangles : these gave results as satisfactory
as those usually obtained below. The great difference was in the
sound itself: the report of the gun producing a kind of hissing noise.
The eprouvette was of iron, and was fired with a plug driven into it
very tightly after it was loaded. When fired near the level of the sea,
it was necessary to close the ears when standing within twenty feet
of it. The sound could be heard six miles, and the report was equal
to that of a large gun. But on the summit we stood close to it without
any precaution whatever, and the noise it there made was more like
that of a squib. Although the reports of the epronvette were heard
at the opposite side of the crater distinctly, yet the sound was a faint
one; but at the Recruiting Station, then occupied by Lieutenant
Alden, about eight miles distant, the sound was loud and reverbera-
tory.

This night we finished the pendulum, and all the dip and intensity
observations, except those with Gauss's needle.

The temperature at night stood at 20°.

On the 12th, I joined Lieutenant Budd in the triangulation, and for
this purpose made the circuit of the crater to occupy the western
stations. The day was fine, and the lava covered with about five
inches of snow. Having prepared our boots with hide sandals, Dr.
Judd and myself set off at an early hour towards the south, and whilst
Lieutenant Budd took the north side, we passed round Pohakuohanalei.
In the vicinity of that crater are many fissures, of great depth, and with
a fresh appearance, as though they had been in action only the day
before. The matter which had been thrown out from them appeared
to be pure obsidian, of a dark and shining colour, and very brittle.
Beyond it was an extensive bed or stream of pahoihoi. The small
crater to the south of Pohakuohanalei, is but a small pit, in comparison
with the others, and does not appear to have ever discharged lava over
its edge. It is of the kind that I shall hereafter designate as a pit-crater,
and will be described when I come to speak of those that are near the
new eruption.

In traversing these fissures we were in great danger, and experienced
much difficulty in walking on the recent stream that seemed to have
flowed from them, for the snow which covered the lava concealed the
new and weak places. The idea of being precipitated down a chasm
of one hundred and fifty or two hundred feet deep, was by no means
agreeable. Our blood was occasionally stirred by breaking through
-with one leg or both ; and I shall not soon forget my own descent into
a yapour or steam bath, which on trial was found to be 109° of tempe-

MAUNA LOA. 159

rature, although only a few moments passed before I was out of
danger. The lava at the mouth of some of the chasms, appeared as
though it had been thrown up and plastered on the edges in clots, which
seemed of the consistency of tar or melted sealing-wax, of various
colours, the most predominant a dark brown. One of these fissures
we designated as the Great Steam-crack : it led from the top of the
mountain a long distance down its sides, towards the south, and from
it vapour was constantly issuing. On throwing a piece of lava down
it, a sound was produced as if many pieces had been flung into an
ordinary chasm, and the reverberation continued so long, as to lead to
the belief that the mountain was rent to its very base.

Although we had scarcely accomplished one-third of the circuit, our
sandals began to give way, and we were obliged to stop to mend them,
in order to prevent ourselves from becoming barefoot before making the
circuit and reaching the encampment. While Dr. Judd undertook the
repairs, I made a sketch of the crater, looking into it from the south,
with Mauna Kea in the distance, while all around us the lava was piled
in huge blocks, confusedly thrown together by some mighty force.

This crater differs in several particulars from that of Kilauea. It
has no black ledge, and has a great quantity of fallen debris around its
walls. There is no boiling lake, although the evidences of fire, as has
already been stated, are not wanting, and its outer walls are more
broken down.

The glare from the snow in the strong sunlight had now become
exceedingly uncomfortable to the eyes, which was felt by several who
were in company with us.

About 1 P. M., we were at a station on the southwest side, from
which I obtained the distance, by sound, from the observatory.

From this station we had a distant view of the hills on the coast.

After getting my observations with the theodolite, we proceeded on
our way round, frequently passing numbers of large boulders of a
grayish basalt, that were lying on the lava stream, and had apparently
been ejected from the crater.

About two o'clock we reached the western side of the dome of
Mauna Loa, which is here much more precipitous than it is on the
east. On the western side there was no more than a slight sprinkling
of snow, that scarcely covered the black lava. The weather was still
and calm, and a deathlike stillness prevailed, which I dreaded to break,
even by making a remark to my companions upon the splendour of the
scene before us. The sight was surpassingly grand. In the distance,
the island of Maui emerged from and broke the line of the deep-blue

160 MAUNA LOA.

horizon, while its lower side was dimmed by a whitish haze, that seemed
to unite it to the island of Hawaii. The same haze enveloped the hills
of Kohala on our right, and the western extremity of Hawaii. Nearer
to us was Hualalai, the third great mountain of Hawaii, up whose sides
a compact mass of white fleecy clouds was impelled by the sea-breeze.
To our right rose in bold relief Mauna Kea, covered with its snowy
mantle ; and at our feet was spread out, between the three great moun-
tains, the black plain of lava, overhung by a dusky pall of clouds. All
these features were so blended into each other by the mist, as to
exhibit a tone of harmony that could hardly be conceived, considering
the variety of the forms, characters, and distances of the objects, and
which seemed to blend earth, sea, and sky into one. I can never hope
again to witness so sublime a scene, to gaze on which excited such
feelings that I felt relieved when I turned from it to engage in the
duties that had called me to the spot.

It was not without some nervous excitement that I placed my instru-
ment on the highest point of Mauna Loa, within a few feet of its
crater, and turned it upon Mauna Kea, to measure the difference in
the height of these twin giants of the Pacific.

The very idea of standing on the summit of one of the highest
peaks in the midst of this vast ocean, in close proximity to a precipice
of profound depth, overhanging an immense crater " outrageous as a
sea," with molten rock, would have been exciting even to a strong
man ; but the sensation was overpowering to one already exhausted
by breathing the rarefied air, and toiling over the lava which this huge
cauldron must have vomited forth in quantities sufficient to form a dome
sixty miles in diameter, and nearly three miles in height.

I was still in doubt which mountain I should find the highest; for
although previous measurements had given it in favour of Mauna Kea,
yet I had found Mauna Loa about three hundred feet higher than it
had been reported to be. Double the zenith angle was soon obtained,
and decided it in favour of Mauna Kea, and subsequent calculations
gave one cone of it as one hundred and ninety-three feet above the
place where I stood. Although twin mountains, they are of very
different character. Mauna Kea is a vast mound topped with cones,
nine in number, whilst Mauna Loa is a smooth dome. On the former
the frosts of winter prevail, while the latter has internal fires, and
occasionally vomits forth its lava to the very point where the other
begins to rise, covering its broad flanks with layers of rocks.

We had not much time to spare, and as soon as Lieutenant Budd
joined me, we continued our route, in order to reach the encampment

MAUN A LOA. 161

before dark, for otherwise we should be forced to pass the night among
the blocks of lava. Our sandals of hide were worn through, and our
shoes somewhat injured, so that it became a source of anxiety to us
whether they would last long enough for us to reach our destination.

With rapid steps we passed along the north bank of the crater,
descending on our hands and knees over some large blocks, where the
wall had been thrown down as it were by earthquakes, filling chasms
near it several hundred feet in depth. The way was difficult and dan-
gerous, requiring the utmost caution in proceeding along the narrow
edge that separated the north from the central crater ; a false step, or
the detaching of a small rock or stone, would have sent hundreds of
the huge blocks headlong below. We passed over without accident ;
and blocks of stone that before I had conceived to be large, dimi-
nished to small stones, in comparison with those we were passing over
by jumping from one to the other. Many of us sank down from
exhaustion when we reached the opposite bank. How I accomplished
the remaining two miles I am unable to say, unless it were by virtue
of the stimulant that the prospect of being benighted gave me. When
we arrived, the sun had set, and we were all completely exhausted.

On our return we found the village filled with half-naked natives,
who had come up, lured by the fine weather, and in hopes of getting
their loads to return immediately, for the following day had been
originally fixed upon for breaking up our camp. It was impossible
to allow them to return : the night had closed in, and it became neces-
sary to accommodate some forty natives with lodging and comforts.
Although I was worn down, this was too strong a case to go unat-
tended to ; and the only place where I could stow them was the pen-
dulum-house. I therefore took down and packed away the clock and
apparatus, and gave them the house to lodge in. With the dry grass
on its floor and roof, and plenty to eat, they made themselves quite
comfortable.

During the time I was thus engaged, I began to feel as if cobwebs
had passed over my face and eyes, and found the same feeling pre-
vailed with two or three of the men who had accompanied me during
the day. To this feeling succeeded excessive irritation and inflamma-
tion of the eyes and eyelids, brought on by exposure to the strong
glare from the snow. Dr. Judd was kind enough to make various
applications, but none of these produced any effect, and I felt forcibly
the horror of probable blindness ; indeed I was so for the time, and
notwithstanding all my fatigues, I passed a sleepless night in great
pain. The night was stormy : the thermometer fell to 17°. I, how-

VOL. iv. 02 21

162

MAUNA LOA.

ever, determined to leave the station in the morning, if I had to be led
down the mountain, which I thought very probable. One consolation,
however, remained: my physical energies had not given way until
every part of the objects of my ascent of Mauna Loa had been fully
accomplished.

LAVA JET OF THE CRATER.

CHAPTER V.

CONTENTS.

DEPARTURE FROM PENDULUM PEAK — SYMPTOMS OP THE MOUNTAIN - SICKNESS —
ELECTRICAL PHENOMENA — DESCENT OP THE MOUNTAIN— ARRIVAL AT KILAUEA —
DESCENT OF MESSRS. BUDD AND ELD— LOSS OP A KANAKA— SURVEY OP KILAUEA—
SULPHUR-BANK—CIRCUIT OF THE CRATER— THIRD CRATER — LUA PELE — DR. JUDD'S
DESCENT INTO THE CRATER— HIS PERILOUS ADVENTURES— VIEW OP THE ERUPTION
—SURVEY OF THE FIERY LAKE— BLACK LEDGE— QUANTITY OP MATTER DISCHARGED
—NEW DISPOSITION OF PARTIES— RETURN TO THE COAST— LUA PELE— DEEP CREVICE
— KALANOKAMO — PIT AND CONE CRATERS— MAP OF THE SOUTHEAST PORTION OF
HAWAII — ALE ALE A-IKI — PANAU — RECENT ERUPTION — TIMBER FELLED BY LAVA-
TRUNCATED CONES ON THE LAVA-NAMES OP THE CONE-CRATERS-KEKAHUNANUI-
COURSE OF THE STREAM OF LAVA-CRATERS NEAR THE COAST-WHITE OWL-PUNA
— KAN AKIKI — VOLCANIC SAND-HILLS — CHRYSOLITE — OLD AND NEW LAVA — VIEW
FROM THE SAND-HILLS— KEEAU— TRAITS OF NATIVE CHARACTER — MODE OP RECK-
ONING DISTANCES— RETURN TO HILO—P AND ANUS TREE AND ITS USES — DERANGED
NATIVE— PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS BEGUN — DISCREPANCIES IN THEM — APPARATUS
REMOVED TO PANEO-STOPPAGE OF THE CLOCK— NEW DISTURBANCES IN THE EXPE
RIMENTS — APPARATUS REMOVED TO MOUNT KANUHA — THE EXPERIMENTS ARE
SUCCESSFUL.

(163)

CHAPTER V.

K I L A U E A.
1841.

WHEN day broke, on the 13th January, all was bustle on the summit
of Mauna Loa. Every one was engaged in taking down and packing
up the instruments and equipage, loaded with which the native labourers
scampered off. Some of them, indeed, unable to bear the cold any
longer, and hoping to obtain loads afterwards, withdrew without
burdens.

At nine o'clock, Dr. Judd, myself, and six of the crew of the Vin-
cennes, bade adieu to the walled village we had built. The men
showed their delight at quitting this barren and desolate spot by three
hearty cheers. It was no little gratification to me to be able to take
my departure, after having successfully accomplished all the duties
assigned to me here, without any serious mishap, except in the case
of Longley, although all the party had been more or less sufferers
from the mountain-sickness.

Dr. Judd remarked, in relation to the manner in which the natives
were attacked by this disease, that the general symptoms were colic,
vomiting, and diarrhrea ; that one or two were affected with spitting
of blood, and a few had fever and ague. A yellowness of skin, with
headache and giddiness, were experienced by nearly all the party,
while several were seized with asthma and rheumatism, and a few
had scorbutic symptoms.

Dr. Judd always found that great hunger was felt, although the
ability to eat at meals was wanting.

A variableness of the pulse during the day, which the least excite-
ment would cause to rise, was experienced by all, the variation
amounting to from thirtv to forty beats.

(1C5)

166 KILAUEA.

During the whole time that we were above the height of nine thou-
sand feet, there were only one or two days in which the electrical
excitement of the atmosphere was not apparent, and those were ex-
ceedingly damp; the electroscope, in fact, was in constant action
during our stay.

Previous to our departure, I had the words " Pendulum Peak,
January 1841," cut in the lava within our village. J. G. Clarke, one
of the seamen belonging to the Vincennes, who made these marks
came to me and desired, on the part of the men, that I would allow
them to add to it U. S. Ex. Ex., in order that there might be no
mistake as to who had been there ; to this I readily gave my consent.
This was the same man who had been wounded at Malolo, and one
of the best and most useful we had with us; in himself he united many
employments, as a seamen, drummer, fifer, cook, and stone-cutter ;
knew a little of physic, sang a good sailor's song, and was withal a
poet!

Lieutenant Budd and Mr. Eld were left, with a party of men, to
repeat a few observations with the intensity needles, and .to obtain
angles for a distant position.

The wind, when we set out, blew very strong from the southwest,
and flurries of snow were passing by every few minutes. In two
hours we reached the Recruiting Station, where we found Lieutenant
Alden and many Kanakas on their way up. After a rest of two hours,
and obtaining new shoes, we went on and reached the Sunday Station
at five o'clock, scarcely able to drag one foot after the other. Here
we were soon enveloped in mist, and found the soft and delightful
temperature of spring. I cannot venture to describe the effect this
produced on us after our three weeks' sojourn on the cold, bleak, and
barren summit. I felt for the first time in my life fairly broken down,
and almost past the soothing effects of the loomi-loomi, which the
natives at once offered as a relief to me : it may be called a lesser
shampooing, and consists, as practised in the Sandwich Islands, of a
gentle kneading of the limbs, which has a great tendency to restore
the circulation, and relax the muscles and joints. The natives use it
for rheumatism, headache, and all kinds of pains. It requires some
skill to do it well, and there is the greatest difference in the perform-
ance between persons who are practised in it and those who are not.
The chiefs generally have two persons employed at the same time.
We soon had a good fire made before our Hawaiian hut ; its warmth,
together with an excellent supper, made us comfortable, and we were
soon asleep on the dried grass.

The next morning, when I awoke, all nature seemed to be alive: the

KILAUEA. 167

songs of the birds, the cheerful voices of the natives, were delightful ;
the green foliage gave every thing an air of spring. We were so stiff
as scarcely to be able to move, which was all that now remained to re-
mind us of the scenes we had left, and the fatigues we had undergone.
When we again set off, it was amusing to see the whole party moving
along with their stiff and aching limbs, trying to appear but little
fatigued. At twelve o'clock we reached the station where he had
abandoned our chairs, and I never was more relieved than when I
reached mine, for I was quite unable to walk any further. Here, also,
we were met by the natives with fruit ; indeed, every step we took
seemed to be restoring us to the comforts of life. Late in the after-
noon of the 14th we reached the crater of Kilauea, after an absence of
twenty-eight days, eight of which had been consumed in travelling, six
in going up and two in returning from the summit.

The dome of Mauna Loa looked full as beautiful to the eye as it did
on our way up, but the experience we had had of its surface, and the
difficulties we had encountered, were not so soon to be forgotten, and
arrayed it in different colours to the mind. On passing down the last
strip of Mauna Loa, we came to a spot which had apparently been a
crater of large size. What we supposed to have been the bottom of it,
is considerably below the extensive plain which surrounds Kilauea, and
between them is a broad and deep fissure, running in a northeast di-
rection, towards the sulphur-bank on the north side of the volcano
of Kilauea, which terminates in a precipice from fifty to two hundred
feet in depth, showing that the whole plain around Kilauea must have
sunk at some remote period.

Wishing to be more protected from the cold wind that draws from
Mauna Kea (on the north), we passed over to what I have called Wal-
dron's Ledge (after Purser Waldron of the Vincennes), which is the
usual and by far the most commodious point to encamp at, besides
offering one of the most beautiful views of the volcano.

The day on which we left Lieutenant Budd and Mr. Eld at the
crater, proved very stormy, and the night one of the severest they had
experienced, being extremely cold, and the wind approaching a hurri-
cane. The wind, according to these officers, came howling over the
crater, and when the blast struck their tent, it resembled the discharge
of light artillery, making the canvass quiver as if it would be rent in
ten thousand shreds. After each blast a deathlike stillness followed,
which served to make the roar of the succeeding one more awful.
One of the tents belonging to the men was blown down, but they re-
mained under it, as on a former occasion. In the morning, it was
found that many of the panels of the pendulum-house had been hurled

168 KILAUEA.

several hundred feet, and some of them even broken into splinters. It
blew so heavily throughout the day, that these officers were unable to
accomplish the remaining duties.

The 15th proved a delightful day, and they succeeded at an early
hour, in accomplishing the work which remained. Sixty or seventy
Kanakas made their appearance, who were despatched with the re-
maining articles. They recollected the clock-case, which had given
Mr. Eld so much trouble in ascending, but he now took measures to
secure its going in advance, by sending it off first, borne by eight men.
Some of these, however, absconded the moment they got out of his
sight. It was at last placed under the special care of a chief, and gave
Mr. Eld no farther trouble.

Previous to leaving the crater, Lieutenant Budd stationed a man at
the flag-staff; three cheers were then given, and the flag hauled down.
The walls were left standing, resembling those of a small fortress.
There was not one of the party but felt a great satisfaction in leaving
this dreary spot, where they had all suffered much from fatigue, cold,
and hunger.

When about departing, these officers observed a Kanaka who, from
his taking a wrong direction, appeared to be somewhat bewildered ;
but on being called, he gladly took the last remaining load, consisting
of some camp equipage and mess utensils, with some provisions. They
then left the summit and descended as far as the Recruiting Station,
where they stayed over-night. By nightfall, all the articles, including
the heavy clock-case, had arrived, but no one had noticed the Kanaka
•with the calabashes, or thought of him, except to suppose that he would
come down in due season, or had actually gone on. Nothing, how-
ever, was ever heard of this man ; and although diligent search was
made for him for some days after by the natives, yet it resulted in no
trace of him, or of any thing that could lead to a knowledge of his
actual fate. It is supposed that he must have lost the track, and pro-
bably suffered a lingering death. With the exception of the misfortune
of poor Longley, this was the only serious accident that occurred
during our whole trip. Langley is a confirmed invalid, and as such
has been allowed a pension by the government.

This party reached the volcano on the 17th. I had by that time
spent a few days in making a survey of it, obtaining specimens, and
examining its whole interior. On the day after our arrival, although
we were not able to make much exertion, we visited the north sulplur-
banks, and on passing to them by the plain, we found great quantities
of a species of whortleberry, called by the natives ohelas, of an agree-
able sweetish taste, and as large as cranberries.

KILAITEA. 169

The sulphur-bank is about one hundred and fifty yards in length
by about forty wide, and is separated from the perpendicular basaltic
rocks that bound the plain, by a chasm from which steam issues in
quantities. By descending into it as far as the heat would permit,
we obtained some beautiful crystallized masses of sulphur, which we
found in small cavities. In some parts of the chasm, the temperature
was at the boiling point. The bank seemed to be formed by the
decomposition of the rock, through the agency of heat and water.
Without the chasm, the bank was formed of an unctuous, red and
blue clay, or rather marl, so nearly allied to a pigment, that I under-
stood it had been used as a wash or paint by the missionaries. The
steam from below seemed to be penetrating and saturating the whole
bank. We returned to our encampment well laden with specimens.

During the day I had signals put up on the points surrounding the
crater, and made every preparation for surveying it the next day.
Dr. Judd volunteered to go down into the crater, with a party of
natives, to endeavour to obtain some gases with the apparatus we had
Drought from the ship, (which we disinterred here,) and at the same
time to procure some liquid lava, by dipping it up from the boiling
cauldron. For this purpose we thought of many contrivances, but at
last fixed upon one of the frying-pans, as the article best calculated to
effect the object when lashed to a long pole.

On the 16th, Dr. Judd and I set out on our several tasks. The
various instruments with which we were provided caused us much
amusement; but I was somewhat uneasy and doubtful relative to his
descent and prospect of obtaining the objects of his search, for I knew
the state of the crater; but the doctor, always enthusiastic, parted from
me in high spirits, with his party of natives, after receiving many cau-
tions not to be too venturesome. I waited to see him pass over the
edge of the bank, and then went to my work of triangulation.

The wind was strong from the northeast, and though clear, the
weather was unpleasant. After measuring my base, I visited all the
stations around the crater in their turn. The banks, like those on
the south side, are formed of sand and pumice, of which the former
is most abundant, and occurs in strata, of from six to eight inches in
depth. On the southwest side of the crater we did not find the gases
so perceptible or suffocating as I had been led to expect from the
natives' account, who urged numerous objections in order to prevent
my going there, for they imagined that they would have a difficult
journey. They told many stories of persons falling through the
sand : this I could not understand until one of my men suddenly
sunk in up to his middle, which at once caused us to make a halt,

VOL. iv. p 22

170 KILAUEA.

and examine the ground. The cause of this accident I found to be,
That the sand and pumice had accumulated in the Great Steam-crack,
that leads off in the direction of Papapala (nearly south), and had
filled it almost to a level with the rest of the surface. It may easily
be conceived how this could be done by these materials, possessing
as they do somewhat of an adhesive quality, resulting partly from
their glassy points and fibres. In treading on these places, the person
immediately falls down, which prevents him from sinking farther.
Such was the terror that came over him, that he crawled with great
rapidity to a place where he could find a point of safety or firmer
ground, to rise upon. The natives, in passing over these sands, were
always desirous of feeling their way with a stick.

What is the most remarkable circumstance about this volcano is,
that a short distance from it there is no appearance of such a pheno-
menon being near, and one cannot help expressing much astonishment
on approaching the edge, to see it so close at hand. From every part
of the bank, it is a wonderful sight; but the view from the northern
side to me was the finest, as the whole of this mighty laboratory of
nature is there embraced in one view. The oldest native traditions
record it to have been in constant operation.

On the southeast side there are some loose blocks of lava, that have
somewhat the appearance of having been ejected, but they are few in
number. Stones were more numerous on this side, although they
would not perhaps warrant the opinion that there has been an eruption
of stones. There is but little doubt that the sand is thrown out at
times in considerable quantities, and scattered around. This is the
only way in which the plain surrounding the crater could be covered
as it has been.

On my route I passed a third crater, the name of which I could not
learn : the natives who were with me seemed to know little about it.
There were several cones of coloured scoria, particularly a red one of
large size within it. The dimensions of this crater were found to be
three thousand feet in diameter, and about three hundred feet in depth.
Finding that I had no time to spare, I was obliged to forego the idea
of descending into it.

There is a tradition which relates that a whole army was once
buried by the sand and ashes, while they were marching by, and that
the shower was so great as to produce almost total darkness. This
sand, I would here remark, bears a strong resemblance to that of the
sand-hills caused by the late eruption at Nanavalie, which will be here-
after spoken of.

During the month that intervened between our visits, the black ledge

KILAUEA. 171

had undergone some change. This was ascertained by a comparison
of the outlines of the lower pit, bounded by the ledge, on the two
occasions. A large projecting point on the east side of the black
ledge had disappeared. The lakes of fire continued nearly the same,
though the small one in the larger area seemed less active.

At about three o'clock, when I had reached the eastern edge of Lua
Pele, all the party who were with me remarked a large column of
smoke rising from that crater, and we, in consequence, ran towards
the bank; but the sulphur-banks concealed the bottom of the crater and
black ledge from our view. It immediately occurred to me, that an
outbreak had taken place, by which the whole bottom of the lower
crater would be overflowed, and that my friend, Dr. Judd, would find
himself in a dangerous position, as he must at the time be near it.
Not being able to reach any place where we could relieve our appre-
hensions, we were forced to continue our route, and shortly after
descended to what is known as Lord Byron's Ledge, which lies be-
tween the two craters, Lua Pele (Pele's Pit) and Kilauea. The
position of the hut occupied by Lord Byron is close to the brink of
Kilauea. I noticed this place as proving that a recent eruption has
taken place on the ledge. A flow of igneous matter has evidently run
into both craters, and has covered the ledge with large sheets of lava.
These are here and there broken through, forming a kind of funnel or
bridge, from beneath which the lava has flowed, leaving the soil in
places uninjured. Numbers of ferns, having a luxuriant growth, were
found under these immense slabs. In examining the edge of the bank,
I became satisfied of the correctness of the above opinion, as the flow
over the ledge seems to have come from beneath, and to have coursed
down the sides, either in broad ribands, or in streams like large cables,
coiling themselves in confused layers on the black ledge. The flow
into the pit seemed to be less fluid, as it did not reach the bottom, and
flowed in one broad stream. Passing on, we reached the bluff bound-
ing Waldron's Ledge, which is the highest part around the crater : it
is bold and projecting, and in some places the path leads close under
it, among large blocks that have fallen from it, either by the shaking
of earthquakes or decomposition by time.

The annexed plate is taken from a camera lucida sketch, by Mr.
Drayton ; and gives an idea of the stratification of the walls around
the crater.

When we ascended the bank, it became evident that the eruption
had taken place at the small crater : this gave rise to much uneasiness
respecting the party that had gone down. I searched with my glass
in every part of the crater, but saw no one, although I was convinced

172 K I L A U E A.

that they could not have proceeded up before us. When I returned to
the encampment, Dr. Judd was not to be found there, and nothing had
been heard of him.

I therefore felt great relief, when in about a quarter of an hour I
saw the party returning. On greeting Dr. Judd, I received from him
the following account.

After he left me, he proceeded with the natives down the ravine into
the crater ; thence along the black ledge to its western part, where
he descended by the same toilsome path that had been followed a
month before. After reaching the bottom, he found a convenient
steam-hole, whence a strong sulphureous gas issued; and he then
arranged the apparatus for collecting it. This was found to answer
the purpose, and was readily and completely absorbed by water. The
gas was then collected in a phial containing red-cabbage water turned
blue by lime, when it became intensely red.

Dr. Judd then sought for a place where he might dip up some of
the recent and yet fluid lava, but found none sufficiently liquid for the
purpose. Failing here, he proceeded towards the great fiery lake at
the southern extremity of the crater. He found that the ascent towards
this was rapid, because the successive flowings of the lava had formed
crusts, which lapped over each other. This rock was so dark in
colour, as to be almost black, and so hot as to act upon spittle just as
iron, heated nearly to redness, wrould have done. On breaking through
the outer crust, which was two or three inches thick, the mass beneath,
although solid, was of a cherry-red. The pole with which the crust
was pierced, took fire as it was withdrawn. It was evidently impos-
sible to approach any nearer in this direction ; for although the heat
might not be so intense as to prevent walking on the crust, yet the
crust itself might be too weak to bear the weight, and to break through
would have been to meet a death of the most appalling kind. Dr.
Judd, therefore, turned towards the west bank, on which he mounted
to a higher level over stones too hot to be touched, but from which his
feet were defended by stout woollen stockings and sandals of hide,
worn over his shoes. When he had proceeded as far as he could in
this direction, he saw at the distance of about thirty feet from him, a
stream of lava running down the declivity over which he and his com-
panions had ascended. Even this distance was too great to be reached
over, and the intervening rocks had become so heated by the continual
stream, that they could not be traversed.

At this time, they were very near the great lake, but could not see
its surface, which was still about twenty feet higher than the spot
where they stood. Jets of lava were, however, observed rising about

KILAUEA. 173

twenty-five feet, and falling back again into the lake. Dr. Judd now
despaired of gratifying his own wishes and mine, by obtaining lava
in the liquid state, and ordered a retreat.

On his return, the party passed the small crater which has been
spoken of; and which, by comparison with the larger one, appeared
cool. Smoke and a little igneous matter were issuing from a small
cone in its centre; but with this exception, a crust of solid lava
covered the bottom.

On the sides of this crater, Dr. Judd saw some fine specimens of
capillary glass, " Pele's hair," which he was anxious to obtain for our
collection. He, therefore, by the aid of the hand of one of the natives,
descended, and began to collect specimens. When fairly down, he
was in danger of falling, in consequence of the narrowness of the
footing ; but in spite of this difficulty, his anxiety to select the best
specimens enticed him onwards. While thus advancing, he saw and
heard a slight movement in the lava about fifty feet from him, which
was twice repeated, and curiosity led him to turn to approach the
place where the motion occurred. In an instant, the crust was broken
asunder by a terrific heave, and a jet of molten lava, full fifteen feet in
diameter, rose to the height of about forty-five feet, with a most appalling
noise. He instantly turned for the purpose of escaping ; but found that
he was now under a projecting ledge, which opposed his ascent, and
that the place where he had descended was some feet distant. The
heat was already too great to permit him to turn his face towards it,
and wras every moment increasing ; while the violence of the throes,
which shook the rock beneath his feet, augmented. Although he con-
sidered his life as lost, he did not omit the means for preserving it;
but offering a mental prayer for the Divine aid, he strove, although in
vain, to scale the projecting rock. While thus engaged, he called in
English upon his native attendants for aid ; and looking upwards, saw
the friendly hand of Kalumo, — who on this fearful occasion had not
abandoned his spiritual guide and friend, — extended towards him. Ere
he could grasp it, the fiery jet again rose above their heads, and Kalumo
shrunk back, scorched and terrified, until excited by a second appeal,
he again stretched forth his hand, and seizing Dr. Judd's with a giant's
grasp, their joint efforts placed him on the ledge. Another moment,
and all aid would have been unavailing to save Dr. Judd from perishing
in the fiery deluge.

In looking for the natives, they were seen some hundreds of yards
distant, running as fast as their legs could carry them. On his calling
to them, however, they returned, and brought the frying-pan and pole.
By this time, about ten or fifteen minutes had elapsed ; the crater was

P2

174 K I L A U E A.

full of lava, running over at the lower or northern side, when Dr. Judd
was enabled to dip up a pan of it ; it was, however, too cold to take an
impression, and had a crust on its top. On a second trial he was suc-
cessful, and while it was red hot, he endeavoured to stamp it with a
navy button, but the whole sunk by its own weight, being composed of
a frothy lava, and became suddenly cold, leaving only the mark of the
general shape of the button, without any distinct impression. The cake
he thus obtained, (for it resembled precisely a charred pound-cake,)
was added to our collections, and is now in the hall where they are
deposited. This lake I have designated as Judd's Lake, and believe
that few will dispute his being entitled to the honour of having it called
after him. Dr. Judd now found that he had no time to lose, for the
lava was flowing so rapidly to the north, that their retreat might be cut
off, and the whole party be destroyed. They therefore at once took
leave of the spot, and only effected their escape by running. When the
danger was past, Dr. Judd began to feel some smarting at his wrists
and elbows, and perceived that his shirt was a little scorched. By the
time he reached the tents, and we had examined him, he was found to
be severely burned on each wrist, in spots of the size of a dollar, and
also on his elbows, and wherever his shirt had touched his skin.
Kalurno's whole face was one blister, particularly that side which had
been most exposed to the fire.

The crater had been previously measured by Dr. Judd, and was
found to be thirty-eight feet deep by two hundred feet in diameter.
The rapidity of its filling (in twelve minutes) will give some idea of
the quantity of the fluid mass.

Towards evening, although very much fatigued, we walked down to
the edge of the bank, to have a view of the eruption that was flowing
from this small lake ; and although I had thought it impossible that the
appearance the great burning lake presented on my first visit could be
exceeded, yet this far surpassed it. The most brilliant pyrotechnics
would have faded before what we now saw. A better idea of the light
given out by this volcano, will be obtained by the fact that it some-
times produces rainbows in the passing rain-clouds, one of which was
seen by Mr. Dray ton. The whole bottom of the crater north of Judd's
Lake, upwards of a mile and a half in length and half a mile in width,
was covered with fluid lava, running in streams, as though it had been
water. These here and there divided, and then joined again, tumbling
in rapids and falls over the different ledges. The streams were of a
glowing cherry-red colour, illuminating the whole crater around ; the
large lake beyond seemed swelling and becoming more vivid, so that
we expected every moment to see an overflow from it of greater gran-

KILAUEA. 175

deur. We sat watching the progress of both for many hours under
great excitement, and saw the formation of pools of the igneous liquid,
one after the other, until accumulating they overflowed the banks, and
rushed on to fill some cavities beyond. We could not but feel our-
selves identified with this spectacle, by the occurrences of the day, and
in particular by the fortunate escape of our companion ; and we sat
speculating on the horrible situation of one cut off' from escape by these
red-hot streams. The sight was magnificent, and worth a voyage
round the world to witness. It was with regret that I returned to our
tent, determining in my own mind to have a nearer view of this over-
flow, in the morning.

We arose early, and our attention was immediately called to the
crater. The large lake had sunk out of sight from our position, while
the smaller one was seen to be still overflowing its banks, thus proving
satisfactorily that their fires have no connexion with each other. Upon
the whole I was glad to see this state of things, as it would afford me
an opportunity of getting near the large lake, to obtain an accurate
measurement of it.

At an early hour I started with a party, consisting of Lieutenant
Budd, who had joined me on his descent from the mountain, and
several men. We descended by the usual path, and on reaching the
black ledge, we made measurements of its width, and took some angles
to ascertain the height of its banks. Lieutenant Budd then, with some
of the men, was ordered to descend to the bottom of the crater, and get
similar observations for the altitude of the black ledge above the bottom,
after which to ascend to the black ledge, and proceed by the west side
towards its southern end.

The result of these observations gave six hundred and fifty feet
for the height of the bank above the black ledge, and the latter
was found to be three hundred and forty-two feet above the bottom :
thus the total depth of the crater was nine hundred and ninety-two
feet.

With some of the men I proceeded towards the great sulphur-bank,
on the east side, fixing my positions as I went along, by observing on
the signals which I had used the day before. When we arrived oppo-
site to Judd's Lake, we went to the edge of the black ledge, where, in
looking over, the heated air that arose might be said to be almost
scorching. The whole area below was filled with fluid which ap-
peared of a red heat, and still flowed to the north. Its surface was
level, when compared with what Dr. Judd had found it the day before.
Near this place were several holes in the black ledge, about two
hundred feet in diameter, where it had caved in, exhibiting large

176 KILAUEA.

chambers of great depth. Beyond these holes were innumerable cracks,
increasing as we approached the southern end, to which I was hasten-
ing, because I had concluded to finish this part of the work before
we became exhausted. In passing over these cracks, it became
necessary to put the hand over the mouth to avoid the heated
blast, which, as we proceeded, became more stifling with fumes of
sulphur.

We at last reached the extreme end, where we measured our line,
and took the angles as quickly as possible. The lake proved, from
my measurement, to be fifteen hundred feet in length, by one thousand
in width, and I found that it had sunk about one hundred feet during
the last night, supposing Dr. Judd's estimate of its being twenty feet
below its edge to be correct. It now appeared to be but little agitated,
and the rocks on its side were left as if spattered with pitch, probably
by the same kind of lava as that we had observed on the top of the
mountain.

Just as I had completed the measurement, the sergeant gave me
notice that he had perceived a movement in the bank, upon which I
ordered a hasty retreat. One of the men who was before stumbled in
his hurry, and fell, disappearing from our sight; we instantly stopped,
and my heart rose to my throat. I could scarcely believe my eyes
when I saw him rise again from the crust of lava, through which he
had fallen into a chasm.

As we approached the sulphur-banks, there was much more heat
and many more signs of action near it; the sulphur-bank was seen to
be constantly in action, if I may so express it, similar to the slaking
of lime. Numerous specimens of sulphur were obtained here, and one
of a sulphate of copper of a fine blue colour. These crystals of sul-
phur were by no means so beautiful as we had found them at the
northern bank.

In several of the caverns were stalactites in the form of a long cone,
of a black colour, from eighteen inches to two feet in length, and an
inch in diameter at the base : these were found to be solid, and of a
silicious matter.

To stand on the black ledge and look around on the desolation
which appears on every side, produces a feeling similar to those with
which the scene of some dreadful conflagration would be viewed.
The same description of sadness is felt that such a prospect would
create, while there is in addition a feeling of insecurity, arising from
the fires that are raging around, and are known to exist underneath.

Although the black ledge has the appearance of being level when
seen from the top of the wall, it is not found to be so. It varies in

K I L A U E A. 177

width from six hundred to two thousand feet, and has been overrun
in various directions by streams of lava, varying in size from that of
a serpent to an immense trunk or tunnel, which, after spreading, pass
down into some chasm and are lost. The view around has nothing
earthly in it; one cannot comprehend how rock can be thus fused
without the agency of fuel. Our notions of the solidity of stone must
here undergo a total change ; and there appeared nothing belonging to
this world at hand with which to form a comparison.

Our party seemed absolutely lost in this immense pit It takes some
time before the eye can embrace the whole, or become in any way
accustomed to the scene around ; and I therefore ceased to wonder at
the discrepancies in the descriptions I had heard of it. From this
cause, and the want of any accurate drawings by preceding visitors,
I was unable to arrive at any distinct knowledge of the changes it has
undergone ; but I hope that our observations and survey will prevent
this from being the case hereafter.

The varieties of lava that are met with are not the least striking
part of this phenomenon. The description which appears to predomi-
nate is of a dark hue, and metallic lustre; it lies in a layer a foot
thick, and is quite solid : the others are less dense, more vesicular, and
vitreous. Each separate flow seems to differ from the succeeding
one, and can be easily recognised. It afforded us some amusement to
trace the extent and character of the several beds. That which was
ignited during our stay was in many parts so vitreous as to be almost
obsidian. Pumice is generally found in small lumps on the plain
above ; but I do not now remember, nor does my note-book make any
mention, that pumice had been seen in the crater.

As the layers or strata of basalt increase in thickness, they become
more compact. The absence of clinkers and of any flow of lava on the
plain, prove conclusively that Kilauea has never overflowed its banks.

The crevice to the south extends for a great distance, and may be
traced by the steam issuing from it ; it is not, however, to be consi-
dered as continuous, for the cracks are of different lengths, and some-
times overlap each other, and again are intermitted for hundreds of
yards. Large quantities of Pele's hair was seen covering the plain.

In order to show how difficult it is to fix upon the recollection the
actual state of the crater, and the position of things around, I may
state, that one of our gentlemen insisted upon it that the large " blow-
ing cone," near the north side of the black ledge, had been thrown up
since our first visit, although it was then, as it continued to be, one of
the most conspicuous objects in the crater, and likely to attract par-
ticular notice. It was difficult to convince him that it had been there

VOL. iv. 23

178 K I L A U E A.

during his first visit, until I showed him a camera lucida sketch that
I had taken of the crater, in which it appeared conspicuous in the
foreground.

Our track from the sulphur-banks was directly to the place of ascent.
Laden with specimens, we returned, quite worn out, to our encamp-
ment before sunset. Lieutenant Budd, who had not succeeded in
reaching the end of the black ledge, returned shortly after us. On his
side, the air was too hot and stifling to permit this object to be accom-
plished ; and, although I was watching for him with my spyglass, I
could see nothing of him after we parted.

In doing this, I perceived a curious effect of refraction, produced
by looking over the lakes, when the line of sight passed through the
heated columns of air as they arose from the fluid below. The
opposite bank seemed at times in motion, dancing up and down, as
the breakers on the sea-shore are sometimes seen to do. The strati-
fication of the rocks seemed to be twisting and dancing up and down
also.

After being at this volcano four days, I was as little disposed to
leave it as at first; it is one of those places that grow in interest, and
excite all the energies both of body and mind: the one to undergo
the necessary fatigue, and the other to comprehend the various phe-
nomena.

The discharge from the large lake during the night of the 17th,
must have been equal to fifteen million cubic feet of melted rock ;
this, undoubtedly, found cavities to receive it on the line of the erup-
tion. It is impossible to calculate the discharge from the smaller, or
Judd's Lake, but supposing it had continued as rapid as it was at the
first filling, it would have thrown out, by the time I was there next
day, upwards of two hundred million cubic feet of lava. It will
readily be perceived, that with such a flood, it would be possible,
within the lapse of a period comparatively short, geologically speak-
ing, for a mound the size of Mauna Loa to be heaped up. However
large the above numbers may seem to be, we have reason to suppose,
from appearances, that the " boiling up" and overflow of the terminal
crater of Mauna Loa must have been far greater, so much so indeed
that the outpourings of Kilauea cannot bear a comparison with it. Its
whole height, of more than six thousand feet above the plain of lava,
appears, as I have before noticed, to be entirely owing to the accumu-
lation of ejected matter.

All the parties having arrived, I despatched them to Hilo, with the
exception of Lieutenant Alden, who was ordered to pass by the cone
of Tulani, an old crater on the north flank of Mauna Loa, in order^to

KILAUEA. 179

get a set of angles, to connect our stations at the volcano immediately
with the ship at Hilo.

Previous to our departure this morning, we missed two small brass
disks belonging to one of the instruments. I mention this as the only
theft that had hitherto occurred, notwithstanding our instruments were
necessarily much exposed, and a large number of natives always
around us. Diligent search and inquiry were made for them, but
without success.

As the parties were about setting out, Mr. Eld desired to descend
into the crater, to satisfy his curiosity. He was also instructed to
obtain the measurement, as I was desirous of proving my own as well
as Lieutenant Budd's observations.

The measurements coincided within a few feet of each other.

Dr. Judd and myself took up our march about noon, in order to
follow the line of pit-craters and the late eruption of lava on the east.
Our company, on this route, consisted of about forty, including Dr.
Judd, the servants, six seamen, and the Kanakas who were employed
as bearers and carriers of the baggage, tents, &c. One half of these
were well loaded with poe, as it generally requires one man to carry
food for two, and without taking one's own supplies, it would be im-
possible to think of travelling in this country.

We were extremely fortunate in our Kanakas, who were a body of
fine young men, that had come up from Kapoho, the southeast point
of the island, with provisions for sale, when Dr. Judd engaged them to
become our carriers. This was opportune, as they were all well ac-
quainted with the road we were about to travel.

The first object we passed on our route, was Lua Pele, (the Pit of
Pele,) to which the road approached within a few rods. We had a
beautiful view of this crater, which is circular and nearly filled up
with trees, with the exception of the bottom, where a patch of black
lava was seen. The variety of the green tints of these trees produced
a singular effect. This crater has long been in a state of rest, and
seems to have been very different from the great crater of Kilauea,
both in its mode of action and the character of its lava.

A little beyond Lua Pele we passed a deep crevice, about four feet
wide : this runs towards a rise in the plain, of about sixty to eighty
feet, which extends in a" southerly direction, and is, apparently, the,
boundary of the crater-plain on the east side. This crevice is some-
what similar to that which I remarked on the western side, and so far
as could be judged by the eye, seemed to be inclined towards the great
crater.

K I L A U E A.

We continued our route towards the southeast, over a plain partly
covered with sand, and at the distance of two miles passed the pit-crater
of Kalanokamo : this is the fourth from the crater of Kilauea in a
southeast direction.

By the term " pit-crater," is meant that description of crater of which
there is no appearance whatever until one is close upon it, and which
never throws out lava. The formation of these might be occasioned
by the undermining of the part beneath them. It will be seen, on view-
ing the map, that some of them have only a small part of their bottom
covered with lava. The most probable conjecture, in relation to their
origin, that occurred to us while moving over the ground was, that a
stream of lava had passed underneath, and running off had left large
cavities, into which the superincumbent rock above, not having support,
had fallen, and when this had sunk sufficiently low, the lava had flowed
in and filled the bottom. Some of these pit-craters aje from eight
hundred to one thousand feet deep, but none that I saw had the appear-
ance of eruption within themselves.

There is another description of craters, which may be called cone-
craters. These are hills of scoria and ashes, formed by the ejection of
masses, which appear to be of the same description of lava as the
clinkers of Mauna Loa, though they more nearly resemble the dregs
from a furnace.

The first cone-crater we met with was about a mile beyond Kalauo-
hana, and is called Puukehulu. This I ascended, and measured its
height, which was eight hundred feet above the plain : it was nearly a
perfect cone, both within and without, and covered with trees both out-
side and in. The ashes were in some places so light and dry, that I
sank in them up to my knees. From the top of this cone I had a fine
view of the surrounding country, and was enabled to see all the pit and
cone-craters. There were eight pit-craters in sight : four between us
and Kilauea, one at the foot of Puukehulu, and three more, further off,
to the east-southeast : two cone-craters lay to the east of us. The steam
was rising from the crevices along the line of the last eruption.

From this situation, angles were obtained on them all, and connected
with the stations around Kilauea. Mr. Drayton, who had been over
the route, sent me a map which he had constructed from his own
observations, on which I was enabled at once to mark out my own
position accurately.

The map of the southeast portion of Hawaii was constructed from
the combined observations of Mr. Drayton and myself, with the addition
of some cracks and eruptions from Dr. Pickering's notes. The country

KILAUEA. 181

lo the southeast appears well covered with woods, while to the south
it is bare and barren. The map, however, will give a better idea of it
than can be derived from any description.

Nearly at the foot of Puukehulu, is the pit-crater of Alealea-iki, which
has had a flow of lava into it : it is about five hundred feet in depth, and
of an elliptical shape.

We continued our route towards Panau, passing over a rough lava
country, on which was a young growth of sandalwood and okea trees.
Before reaching Panau we found ourselves in a luxuriant growth of
Cape gooseberries (Physalis Peruviana), which we found quite refresh-
ing after our walk. The natives do not make any use of them, and
seemed somewhat surprised to see us eat them.

At Panau we found a large clearing in the woods, and a village,
consisting of three or four native houses. Here many canoes are
built and transported to the sea, the trees in the vicinity being large and
well adapted to this purpose. I was told that they met with a ready
sale.

Dr. Judd, who had been somewhat unwell since his escape, was now
seized with fever ; and soon after the tent was pitched, went to bed, as
he felt that he required rest. The burns he had received on his wrists
hud become very much inflamed ; he, however, found himself much
belter the next day, and we concluded to proceed. Panau is two
thousand six hundred and seventy-six feet above the sea, and was found
by observations to be ten miles southeast of Kilauea.

In the morning, previous to starting, the men reported to me that
their frying-pan had been stolen during the night. I therefore ordered
immediate search and inquiry lo be made for it. Great alarm in con-
sequence was excited among the natives who attended us ; so much
indeed, that I ordered the men to desist, conceiving it very probable
that one of the other natives, who had been flocking in numbers to see
us, had carried it off. To judge from the scarcity of supplies, the in-
habitants of this part of the island are very poor.

We left Panau after half-past eight o'clock, and passed on towards
the east. After travelling about three miles, we came in sight of the
ocean, five miles off. Our course now changed to the northeast, and
before noon we reached an extensive upland taro-patch, where I sat
down to get the meridian altitude. While thus occupied, I thoughtlessly
picked a piece of taro-leaf, and put it into my mouth ; in a few minutes
I was almost gasping for breath, from its acrid juice. It was conse-
quently with difficulty that I succeeded in getting my observations.

Our path now led through a sort of jungle, and over ground re-
sembling a quagmire, for a mile or two. It appeared we had been

182 K I L A U E A.

traversing an extensive basin, covered with a dense vegetation, which
the sun was not able to penetrate. For the first time on our journey,
we now had plenty of water. On passing beyond this basin, we
entered upon one of the old lava-plains, where we encamped near a
pool of water. This plain is covered with stunted shrubs, and the old
lava seemed more broken than any we had yet passed over since
leaving the crater. In consequence of a mist, the walking was wet
and slippery. During the day one of the men fell and sprained his
ankle, and it became necessary that he should be carried, which office
his companions performed with an attention that pleased me much.

There are several peculiarities about the natives which we now
noticed : among other things they are exceedingly proud of their skin,
and take it as a great affront to be spattered with mud ; if any thing
could ruffle a native's temper, it would be this. The young are parti-
cularly careful to avoid all puddles or mud ; indeed, I thought more so
than we are with our fine clothes.

Our encampment was found to be two thousand two hundred and
sixty-six feet above the sea. The temperature was 64°.

We had now reached the line of the recent eruption, and it was my
purpose to strike the head of the flow. Mr. Drayton, our consul, and
Mr. Brackenridge, had already visited the first outbreak of the late
eruption, of May 1840, which is marked on the map near the pit
crater of Alealea-nui, and also that to the east of the Old Crater.
The latter, with that of Kanemuo-kamu, were the largest of the pit-
craters, always excepting Kilauea. Mr. Drayton considers Kanemuo-
kamu as the deepest crater he saw on the island, and the Old Crater
as the most regular.

As far as we were able to learn, the two eruptions to the east and
west of Moku-opuhi occurred on the same day, and nearly at the same
time.

On the 20th of January, it was nine o'clock before we could pro-
ceed on our journey. The weather was mild and pleasant, and it bade
fair to be a delightful day. By noon we had reached the position of
three cone-craters,, of moderate height, the ground about which was
much broken. We afterwards diverged from the direct path, our
guide taking us across the country a distance of four miles, on the
north side of Kalalua. This march proved to be an arduous under-
taking, for what had appeared to us at a distance to be smooth to
travel on, proved on a nearer view, to be rough lava clinkers, over-
grown with grass and stunted shrubbery, that deprived us of the
opportunity of discovering where we were going to tread. Every few
steps some of the party fell, and we considered ourselves very fortunate

KILAUEA. 183

in escaping without any broken legs. Almost all the party had their
feet more or less bruised, and the skin knocked off, by slipping through
the old and weak crust. Walking over clinkers is, even when one
can see the way, irksome and dangerous, but passing over them when
concealed, is particularly so. We all felt ourselves heartily tired, and
I am satisfied that scarcely any thing would have tempted any of us to
pass over the route again. What made it more provoking was the
the ease and facility with which the natives traversed it.

Towards sunset we had a drizzling rain, and finding it impossible to
reach Pahuhali, we determined to encamp a mile or two beyond the
Kaimo road, at the head of the eruption. When this was done, we
found ourselves with little or nothing to eat in the camp. A messenger
was therefore forthwith despatched to Pahuhali, and after waiting
anxiously, and speculating on his success, we were gratified by the
light of distant torches, and soon found ourselves supplied with all that
the land afforded — pig and taro. The men got a good supper, but
they had little sleep, for it rained hard and they were completely wet ;
although protected by tents, we found ourselves floating in water.

Kalalua is the largest cone-crater in this part of the island ; and I
was informed it had thrown out lava, but I had not time to examine it.
Appearances indicated that the native account was true ; the streams
of pahoihoi, on its flanks, appeared to come from its crater. The
height is one thousand one hundred feet.

The altitude of our station above the sea, was one thousand two
hundred and forty-four feet. The thermometer stood at 70°.

Early on the 21st, we began to examine the locality, and found that
we were a short distance below the upper part of the eruption. It had
begun first in a kind of point, and accumulating there, had stretched
itself out on either side, gathering strength as it went, until after pro-
ceeding about two miles it became a torrent of fluid rock, from ten to
fifteen feet in thickness, which swept every thing before it, overlaying
the soil, and destroying all the vegetation that came in its way.

After a northeast course of three miles, we entered upon the lava
stream, where it was about a mile wide, resembling a river congealed
at once into stone, leaving all its flowings and eddies distinctly marked
and perpetuated. It was covered here and there with the fallen
timber, appearing in some instances as if it had been bleached ; only
a hole was left to mark where each tree had stood, the stump having
been entirely consumed. These holes were frequently found as much
as twelve or fifteen feet in depth. Of their origin there can be no
doubt, and my supposition is, that by the time the tree had been burnt
off, the rocky stream became fixed, which would account for the tree

184 KILAUEA.

being still so near the place where it had formerly stood. Some of the
trunks were partly burnt, and others again had epiphytic plants still
adhering to them.

In some places lava was found adhering to the leaves and branches
of trees, appearing as if it had been spattered upon them. In some
instances the lava thus adhering might have been taken for birds'
nests, yet the wood exhibited no signs of fire. The circumstance
which astonished me most, was the state of a copse of bamboos
(Bambusa arundinacea), which the lava had not only divided, but
passed on each side of: many of them were still living, and a part of
the foliage remained uninjured. Some of the large trees, not more
than twenty feet from the stream, seemed scarcely affected, and yet
not thirty yards from them we lighted our sticks by putting them
down no farther than two feet below the surface, although eight
months had elapsed since the eruption happened. Nearer to the sea,
all the foliage to the distance of three hundred and fifty yards from
the lava stream was killed. To account for these circumstances, we
must suppose either that the lava flows more rapidly, or that its power
of radiating heat is much less than is generally believed.

The fixed stream has so much the appearance of a fluid mass that
it is deceptive, and the whole seemed yet in motion. Fire and srnoke
were to be seen in many places. Its line of descent to the sea was on
a declivity of one hundred feet to the mile, and according to the native
account it reached the sea in two nights and a day — thirty-six hours.
The distance being a little over ten miles, the velocity must have been
about four hundred feet an hour.

We proceeded down the lava stream until it expanded to a width
of three or four miles. There are many fissures along the whole line,
as will be perceived by the dark places on the map. I feel confident
that from each of these an ejection had taken place, and that the lava
had in some cases flowed in a contrary direction to the general course
of the stream ; for being traced in such cases, it was seen to have pro-
ceeded from a fissure that, had occurred on rising ground. Wherever
the ground was steep, it was there perceived that tunnels or hollowed
places occurred, in consequence of the molten lava having flowed
from beneath the crust formed by cooling. The upper part of the
stream was composed of the description of lava called pahoihoi; the
lower portion was much broken, though not of that description called
clinkers, and seemed as though it had been crowded together and
broken up like ice in the breaking up of the frost in our rivers, slab
overlaying slab, and many of them ground to pieces by the great
pressure from behind.

K I L A U E A.

LAVA FLOW.

About six miles from the sea, it appeared as though there had been
a simultaneous outbreak over a large area. The stream was suffi-
ciently fluid at all places to
seek the lowest level, and an
idea of the flowing may be
formed from the annexed dia-
gram, which I sketched from
the top of a cone.

Near the centre of this flow
was a mound that had been
covered with trees. These
were all left standing, but had
not a leaf upon them, which
increased the desolate appear-
ance of the scene before us.
In our walk we occasionally
met a " blowing cone," with quantities of salts, sulphur, and hot sul-
phureous gases still issuing from it.

After having satisfied ourselves with this part, we ascended an old
crater-hill, and crossing over it, came to an old lava plain of the kind
called pahoihoi : this appeared quite solid, and its surface was un-
broken ; there were no holes like those I have described on the recent
flow ; but in place of them there were a large number of raised
truncated cones, some of which were inverted. These appeared to me
to have been lava jets that had resulted from a subsequent flow of the
upper pahoihoi, which had been forced upwards, cooling as it met the
air, and congealing. Each of these pillars was perforated with a
hole from top to bottom, and the lava that composed them was lami-
nated. The wood-cut of lava jets will be seen at the end of this
chapter.

These columns are sometimes twenty feet high, and some of them
resemble colossal statues of rude workmanship.

As long as the pahoihoi lasted, we had pleasant walking ; but it did
not reach far, for the rough lava seemed to predominate in our path,
and made the way irksome and fatiguing.

This hill has a tradition attached to it, which one of our guides
related to us. When Palila, one of their gods, in former times, was
on the hill roasting bananas, the people of Papapala saw the smoke,
and went up to ascertain who was there. They found only a boy
cooking bananas, and attempted to take them from him ; but his power
\vas such, that he beat them all and drove them down the moun-
tain ; and they never again ventured to encounter so powerful a god.

VOL. iv. <*2 24

186 KILAUEA.

Almost all the hills or craters of any note have some tradition
connected with them ; but I found that the natives were now generally
unwilling to narrate these tales, calling them " foolishness."

After leaving the pahoihoi plain, we passed along the line of cone-
craters, towards Point Kapoho, the southeast part of the island.

Of these cone-craters we made out altogether, large and small,
fifteen, trending about east-northeast. The names of the seven last
are Pupukai, Poholuaokahowele, Punomakalua, Kapoho, Puukea,
Puuku, and Keala. On some of these the natives pointed out where
there had formerly been slides, an amusement or game somewhat
similar to the sport of boys in riding down hill on sleds. These they
termed kolua.

This game does not appear to be practised now, and I suppose that
the chiefs consider themselves above such boyish amusements. The
manner in which an old native described the velocity with which
they passed down these slides, was, by suddenly blowing a puff; ac-
cording to him, these amusements were periodical, and the slides were
usually filled with dried grass.

As we approached the sea-shore, the soil improved very much, and
was under good cultivation, in taro, sweet-potatoes, sugar-cane, and a
great variety of fruit and vegetables. At about four o'clock, we
arrived at the house of our guide, Kekahunanui, who was the " head
man." I was amused to find that none of the natives knew him by
this name, and were obliged to ask him, before they could give it to
Dr. Judd.

By this little circumstance, we found that it was still customary for
the natives to change their names, according to their caprice, and it
appeared that this was the case in the present instance. I neglected
to put down his former name, which appeared to me as much too
short as the last was too long. We found him to be a petty chief,
who superintended lands belonging to another. He had sent on
in advance orders to have his large house prepared for us; and we
found that it had been vacated for our accommodation ; but as both
Dr. Judd and I had been punished before by sleeping in a native house,
we preferred our tent ; and it was lucky we did so, for the men in-
formed me the house was infested with fleas.

The view from the guide's house was quite pretty, the eye passing
over well-cultivated fields to the ocean, whose roar could be distinctly
heard. I felt great delight in again seeing it.

The course which the subterranean stream appears to have taken,
i* somewhat singular, and may be followed pretty accurately by the
direction of the steam-cracks.

K I L A U E A. 187

From the best information we could obtain, it appeared that the
lava first showed itself in the crater of Alealea-nui, and burst out next
within one fourth of a mile of it on the north ; thence it appears to
have passed under Moku-opuhi, a cone, crater, and reappeared again
on its opposite side; whence it seems to have had a long subterranean
course, until it reappeared near the Kaimo road. The natives say,
that it burst out in eight different places before it reached the sea. An
intelligent-looking native, whom we met and took as guide, who had
lived near and appeared perfectly well acquainted with the ground,
told us, that the recent eruption was preceded by three days of earth-
quakes; that the lava appeared and ran down to the sea within a single
day, but that it was three weeks before it was cool enough to bear a
person on its surface.

Having time before dark, we determined to pay a visit to the three
craters nearest the coast, from which they are distant less than a mile
and a half. They are four hundred and fifty-six feet high, of irregular
form ; and although each is distinct from the others, yet they seem to
have, at one time, run into each other. They looked very picturesque
within ; and one of them, to our surprise, exhibited a well-cultivated
farm, with a pretty cottage in the middle, surrounded by a few trees.
One of my Yankee sailors declared, that he would not be ashamed to
own such a farm and dwelling in New England.

In the bottom of one of these is a small lake, as smooth as a mirror,
and of a light-green colour, which contains plenty of fish. After an
earthquake, its water has frequently turned red and yellow, and smelt
strongly of brimstone. It is about six fathoms deep, by the report of
the natives, and two hundred yards across.

In another of the craters is a pond of fresh water, of small dimen-
sions. Another crater, near by, is said to have a hot spring in it,
which the natives use as a bath.

We returned to our guide's house, where we had an abundance of
every thing supplied us; and at eight o'clock distinctly heard the
evening gun on board the Vincennes, at Hilo, a distance of fifteen
miles. While we were at the crater of Kilauea, the men reported to
me that they had heard it ; but I was then under the belief that the
sound was occasioned by an explosion in the volcano. The whole
country between Hilo and the southeast point of Hawaii, is covered
with lava ; which may account for the distinct transmission of sound,
for so great, a distance, from a small howitzer.

One of the men shot a beautiful white owl, and brought it to my tent,
where Dr. Judd laid it down, to all appearance quite dead ; a few
minutes afterwards, to our surprise, it flew away, having been only

188 KILAUEA.

stunned. I regretted its loss; for it was a beautiful specimen, and one
that we had been endeavouring to obtain for some days past.

During the night, one of the heaviest rains I had experienced in the
island, fell ; but the morning was bright and clear, — every thing seemed
to be rejoicing around, particularly the singing-birds, for the variety
and sweetness of whose notes Hawaii is distinguished.

Previous to our departure, all the tenantry, if so I may call them,
came to pay their respects, or rather to take a look at us. We had
many kind wishes, and a long line of attendants, as we wended our
way among the numerous taro-patches of the low grounds, towards
Puna ; and thence along the sea-coast towards the place where the
lava entered the sea, at Nanavalie. The whole population of this
section of the country was by the wayside, which gave me an oppor-
tunity of judging of their number ; this is much larger than might be
supposed from the condition of the country, for with the exception of
the point at Kapoho, very little ground that can be cultivated is to be
seen. The country, however, is considered fruitful by those who are
acquainted with it, notwithstanding its barren appearance on the road-
sides. The inhabitants seemed to have abundance of bread-fruit,
bananas, sugar-cane, taro, and sweet-potatoes. The latter, however,
are seen to be growing literally among heaps of stones and pieces of
lava, with scarcely soil enough to cover them ; yet they are, I am
informed, the finest on the island.

At Puna, there is a large church ; but no appearance of a village,
the houses being much scattered. The church, it is said, will contain
two or three thousand persons. The Rev. Mr. Coan, I understood,
officiates here occasionally.

Before reaching Nanavalie, we passed through Kanakiki, a small
village ; and the sand-hills at the former place were reached before
noon, when I was enabled to get the meridian observations. The
height of the highest sand-hill was found to be two hundred and fifty
feet : it is perpendicular on the side next the sea, which is rapidly
washing it away. Here we met several natives, who confirmed the
story of the earthquakes, and said that they had been very severe.
I have not before stated the fact, that none were felt at Hilo; and
indeed earthquakes on Hawaii seem to be local. One was said to have
taken place during my visit to Mauna Loa ; but no one of the party
felt any shock.

There are three of these sand-hills, which caused me more astonish-
ment, and involved greater difficulties to account for them, thnn any
other phenomenon connected with the eruption. From the accounts
given me, the coast at Nanavalie, previous to the eruption, was one

K I L A U E A. 189

continuous lava cliff, of the hard metallic kind, like that which is still
found on both sides of the sand-hills for several miles. There was no
appearance whatever of sand. At present there are three large hills,
composed of sand and gravel of a light yellow hue, with little mixture
of lava or scoria. The last unite with the lava plain near the sea,
which may be observed in some places to flow under them.

Beds of sand and gravel, similar to those composing the hills, exist
for some distance along the sides of the lava streams. From all
accounts, the formation of these took place at the time the lava stream
joined the ocean, which must have produced a violent sand-storm, the
effects of which are rendered evident for a mile on either side of the
stream, by the quantity of sand and gravel that is lodged in the pan-
danus and other trees.

From the top of the hill I could perceive no appearance of a shoal
having been formed, for the water appeared quite as blue as in mid-
ocean. This point I particularly attended to, for it had been reported
to me that such a shoal had been formed. The sand-hills appeared to
have encroached upon the line of the coast about one hundred feet.

Through the sand that was near the sea-shore chrysolite was disse-
minated in greater abundance than it was met with elsewhere, and of
larger size. This mineral is found throughout all the lava formation,
in greater or less quantities. To account for the presence of greater
quantities of it at this place, it may be supposed that the melted lava,
coming in contact with the water, has freed the chrysolite, which the
sea has thrown on the shore.

The width of the lava stream was found to be three-fourths of a
mile. The portion of it nearest the sand-hills is in a very confused and
rugged state, and there are some large accumulations in mounds, that
have been forced up by pressure from above and beneath. It is said to
have passed over the ancient village of Nanavalie, and left upon its site
and cultivated grounds a deep layer of rock. The natives told us that
they had remained till the last moment, hoping the torrent might be
stayed or turned aside, and thus save their houses. It however swept
on, and they had barely time to remove the few articles they possessed.
I was somewhat surprised at the natives making so light of these
appalling streams of fire, of which the first notice they have is a few
shocks of earthquake, and shortly after a distant fire in the woods.

I was particularly struck with the difference between the old and
recent flows of lava : the old looks the more fresh of the two, and has
the smooth dark metallic lustre before observed, without any vitreous
crust ; it seems to have flowed over the surface when of the consis-
tence of tar. The late flow has a decided vitreous character, with

K I L A U E A.

chrysolite disseminated through it; it has a dark brown hue, and a
reddish scoriaceous appearance.

The south sand-hill commands an extensive view over a scene of
complete devastation, heightened in its character of desolation by the
sulphurous gases and smoke which were still escaping from the recent
stream of lava. The latter, except in its dark colour, resembled a river
on whose banks large masses of ice are heaped, which had carried
destruction in its course, and had crushed or pulverized every thing
that obstructed its way. The very hill on which we sat was the
effect of the power of this stream of fire. A sketch of these sand-hills
is exhibited in the annexed wood-cut.

SAND-HILLS AT NANAVALJE.

The effect of the view was enhanced by the contrast of the bare
rock of the eruption, with the verdure that appeared on either side of it.

The stream of liquid lava seems to have borne down all opposition,
and to have filled up every hollow that lay in the line of its course.

The country around the stream does not appear as if it had any
descent, but the lava stream shows its slope very distinctly.

The natives had been planting sweet-potatoes near the foot of the
sand-hills, but there was little prospect of their succeeding in raising a
crop. We passed several hours here, and then proceeded on our way
through Makuu and Wekahika to Keeau, where we arrived at sunset.
The school-house of Keeau was appropriated to the men and natives ;
but I preferred to occupy the tent, as I was well aware of the peculiar
trials to be undergone in the native houses, although it was newly built.

Here we found a delightful spring of fresh water upon the shore, and
within the flow of the tide at high water. It enabled us to enjoy a
bath, which we had not had the means of doing for forty days. During
our journey, we met Lieutenant Budd on his way to the lava plain, \\-\\o
informed me that they were all well on board the ship.

As we had dispensed with all the baggage we could spare, we deter-
mined to trust to obtaining provisions on the road; in consequence we
generally had a market at our encampment, and one of the first things

KILAUEA. 191

to be attended to was buying our supper. In this traffic, to which Dr.
Judd usually attended, many curious scenes occurred, which caused
us much amusement. At Keeau, for instance, an old woman brought
some eggs for sale, which we were very desirous of obtaining, but she
had determined that she must have a pair of scissors, and refused to
take any thing else. Unfortunately for us we had no scissors to give,
and no persuasion could prevail upon her to take any thing else for
them, although three times their value was offered in money, and she
was told it would buy a pair; but no ! she marched off with her eggs,
and we went without them.

This trait is stronger in the Hawaiians than in the other islanders
of Polynesia ; and I heard of another remarkable instance of the same
sort. A native woman brought to a friend of mine in Honolulu a
large watermelon, and desired to have a needle for it ; the melon was
worth far more, and she was told so. With the needle, more was
offered, but refused, and possessing herself of the coveted article, she
went away, fully satisfied that she had made an excellent bargain.

Not unfrequently at the markets a native will bring an article for
sale, upon which he has fixed an exorbitant price, and he will continue
to visit it day after day, until he is quite satisfied it cannot be sold for
the desired price, when, instead of offering it at a lower price, he will
prefer to carry it away.

I here learned their mode of reckoning distances is sometimes
by lands, which I found to be equivalent to about one-fourth of a
mile.

In some places they have taken great pains to secure a good road
or walking path: thus, there is a part of the road from Nanavalie to
Hilo which is built of pieces of lava, about four feet high and three
feet wide on the top. The largest and best pieces are placed on the
top ; but notwithstanding this, the road is exceedingly fatiguing to the
stranger, as the lumps are so arranged that he is obliged to take a
long and a short step alternately ; but this the natives do not seem to
mind, and they pass over the road with great facility, even when
heavily laden.

The lava along this part of the coast was similar to that which has
been called old, and in some places I observed the impression of trees
that had fallen on it before it was cold : the marks of them are now as
fresh as if it had happened yesterday. There is no traditionary ac-
count of any flow of lava on this coast, which is a precipitous shore,
about fifteen feet high, on which the sea beats with violence at all
times.

On the 23d of January we were up betimes, being desirous of

192

KILAUEA.

reaching Hilo before noon, and started, leaving the baggage to follow
Our route diverged somewhat from the sea-shore, and lay most of the
way through a thick wood of pandanus. This tree is one of the most
valuable to the natives: almost every part of it is of use, and especially
the leaves; with these they thatch their houses, and make both fine
and coarse mats. The women use the fruit, cut into sections and
strung, for necklaces: they are of a bright red colour, tinged with
orange and yellow, and at a little distance have a pretty effect upon
their dark skins.

The mode of using a knife, for pointing the pandanus and other
purposes, amused the sailors very much : it is held in either hand,
with the point towards the body, and the article to be cut is drawn
over it.

PANDANUS TRE1C.

The growth of the pandanus is peculiar : it forms whirls, generally
from left to right, but occasionally one is seen turning in the opposite
direction, and it becomes not a little puzzling to determine where they
differ, unless the two happen to be seen together. Its mode of provid-
ing for its own support by the pendent roots, is an economy of nature
that appears astonishing, and almost gives an idea that the tree pos-
sesses instinct. Many are to be seen very much inclined, that are in
the act of putting forth several of these roots on one side, in order to
prop themselves up, while not a single one shows itself on the other ;

K I L A U E A. 193

ihese roots not only grow from the side which requires support, but
seem to take that direction which will likewise furnish soil. When the
pandanus forests are in full bloom, the whole air for miles around is
scented with the fragrance.

This day, for the first time, I saw a deranged native. He had
escaped from his keepers ; and I thought he was rather harshly used
in what I saw of the affray. There was great difficulty in securing
mm.

Within a mile or two of the observatory, we met Mr. Dray ton, going
out on another excursion.

We reached the observatory after an absence of forty-two days,
and it was delightful to feel ourselves as it were at home again, after
so arduous and fatiguing an expedition. I had the pleasure to hear
that every thing had arrived safely, and that all were well. On
inquiry being made for the Kanaka that had been missing, I learned
that a party of natives had gone to the mountain in search of him, but
that little hope was entertained that he would be found.

On the 24th, Lieutenant Carr, Dr. Fox, Lieutenant Case, and several
of the other officers, were allowed permission to visit the crater.

On the 25th, 26th, and 27th, we were employed in putting up the
pendulum apparatus, and began on the night of the latter to observe
coincidences. The three series obtained, to my great astonishment
did not agree. I could not account for the discrepancies, for I exa-
mined the whole apparatus, agate planes, knife edge, &c., and found
them in perfect adjustment, both with plumb-line and level ; the scale
and telescope were also found correct ; the rate of the clock was
steady under hourly comparisons with the siderial clock, and observa-
tions of the transits of stars.

Although I had covered the pendulum-house with its tent, I thought
that some of the discrepancies occurring might be owing to its want
of uniformity of temperature. I therefore, on the 29th, had a grass-
house built over both, which remedied any defect of temperature. I
then continued to observe, but did not find the results more satis-
factory ; I therefore took down the whole apparatus, put it up, read-
justed it anew, and took another series during the night. These were
rather more in accordance. I continued observing through the 30th
and 31st, but with no satisfactory results. I then examined the pen-
dulum again with the plumb-line on both sides at the same time : they
both coincided with the marks made in London by Mr. Baily and my-
self, in 1836. I next tried the iron pendulum, and found it to agree
also ; reversed both pendulums on the knife-edge, but the results were
still discrepant.

VOL iv. R 25

194 K I L A U E A.

I must admit I felt perplexed and mortified, not only at the loss of
time, but at being unable to detect the cause of the discrepancies. 1
determined, however, to persevere, and continued to observe from the
1st to the 10th of February, but with no better results, some corre-
sponding, whilst others disagreed every alternate series. The deviation
was irregular, and having kept a watch upon the apparatus, I began to
suspect that the discrepancy was the effect of volcanic action, and that
the ground was unstable. To ascertain whether this was the case, I
tried a mercurial horizon on the top of the pendulum-frame, and after
watching it for nearly an hour, I could perceive no movement or vibra-
tion. On inquiry, I found there was a hot spring beyond low-watei
mark, which the man who attended the tide-staff had discovered in
wading off. This spring was about one hundred and twenty feet from
the pendulum-house; but I at last satisfied myself that the tide, and
more particularly the surf, had more to do with it ; and in looking
over the series, I found that when the surf was heaviest they were
most discordant.

During this time I was employed in making astronomical observa-
tions, and when they were finished, I felt myself at liberty to try other
situations for the pendulum observations. Mr. Pitman having offered
me his son's house at Paneo, I had every thing transported thither.
Paneo is situated on a high bank of lava rock, covered by six or eight
feet of decomposed lava rock and vegetable mould. On this soil, large
bread-fruit trees, some of them two feet in diameter, were growing.
The height of the house above the water was fifty-four feet, and it is
removed about three hundred yards from the beach. Between Paneo
and Hilo the Wailuku river runs, at whose mouth on the Hilo side,
there was generally a long and regular surf rolling in ; but I did not
suppose it possible that this surf could incommode the observations.
After repairing one of the grass-houses, the pendulum-house and appa-
ratus were put up, the whole being in perfect adjustment, and the series
was begun. «

The first difficulty I now had to contend with was the stopping of
the clock. When this was reported to me, I was almost in despair,
for on the other side of the bay it had been proved to go well. The
clock was again set in motion, but in a short time again stopped ; and
the apparatus was once more to be taken down, and all the adjustments
were again to be made, a work of three or four hours. On opening
the clock-case, the cause of its stopping was disclosed by the ap;
ance of a large spider, which had wound his web so tightly round
the fork, and connected it so closely with the case, as to stop the
pendulum. Although this was provoking, I was much relieved by

KILAUEA. 195

finding that it was a cause so easily removed ; and the whole was put
up anew.

I now flattered myself that I should be able to go on successfully ;
but this was soon found to be a fallacious hope. The series were
evidently less disturbed, and the disturbance was found to be con-
nected with the times of the greatest surf. I, however, went through
a thorough examination of the apparatus, and discovered, with a high
magnifying power, what was thought to be a scratch in the agate
planes. I therefore shifted the knife-edge, causing it to rest about
one-sixth of an inch from its former place. As like irregularities
continued, the scratch could no longer be assigned as the cause. I
therefore concluded finally that the roll of the surf was the sole cause
of the discrepancies; and on the 23d of February I determined to
make another move, to Mount Kanuha, a hill back of Hilo, which I
named after the chief who owned the spot. At this hill I engaged
three grass-houses, one of which he agreed to enlarge for me, about
ten feet, which, with the rent for the time I should require them, was
to cost ten dollars. A detachment of sailors was at once ordered, and
the whole apparatus, house, &c., was soon on the move. Mount
Kanuha is three quarters of a mile from the bay, and elevated above
half tide one hundred and forty feet. Before twenty-four hours had
expired, the whole apparatus was up and the clock in motion. After
its rate became settled, the series with the pendulums were success-
fully completed, no disturbance being found to exist at this last
locality.

For these interesting results, the reader is referred to the volume on
Physics. The difference in altitude of the two stations at which the
pendulums were swung, was thirteen thousand three hundred feet.

On this occasion I was assisted by Mr. Eld, who entered most fully
into my anxieties and the excitement incident to them, and who joined
me in the perseverance and exertions necessary to overcome all the
obstacles we had to contend with. On the 2d of March, these duties
were completed, and the instruments embarked.

Our time would have passed quite agreeably here had it not been
for the vexatious delays that have been spoken of. The house I occu-
pied at Paneo was on a charming spot, susceptible of much improve-
ment ; and altogether one of the most desirable situations for a residence
on the islands. During the period of my stay, it offered a delightful re-
treat, and enabled me to enjoy it as well as the fine weather: the latter
I may have estimated more highly than it deserves; for the inhabi-
tants of the village were by no means inclined to extol their climate,
and considered the season as quite remarkable both for the absence of

196

K I L A U E A.

rain as well as the constant sunshine that prevailed ; and from all the
statements I received, I should, notwithstanding my own experience
advise all those who visit this port to be prepared for the interruptions
a few hours of rain each day may occasion ; with this exception, it
may be strongly recommended as a convenient and safe resort for
vessels.

Having thus closed the narrative of the ascent of Mauna Loa, my
visits to Kilauea, and of the difficulties that attended not only the
excursion to the mountains, but the experiments performed near the
water's edge, it is time to revert to the operations of the parties which
were not under my own immediate command. These will form the
subject of the succeeding chapter.

BLOWING CONE OF THE CRATER.

CHAPTEEYI.

CONTENTS.

ASCENT OP MAUNA KEA BY DR. PICKERING AND MR. BRACKENRIDGE— " LONG ROAD"
—CASTLE'S STATION -CAVE — LOFTY PLAIN — TERMINAL PEAKS— DESCENT OF THE
MOUNTAIN — FATE OF MR. DOUGLASS — PUAHAI — MR. CASTLE'S RESIDENCE— THEIR
RETURN TO HILO-SURVEY OF HILO BAY— ACCIDENT OF THE LAUNCH-OCCUPATION
OF THE OFFICERS LEFT IN THE VINCENNES— THEY ARE ENTERTAINED BY KANUHA
— KANUHA AND FAMILY ENTERTAINED ON BOARD-SUGAR MANUFACTURE— COFFEE
PLANTATIONS-CULTURE OF SUGAR AND COFFEE INTRODUCED BY MR. GOODRICH—
THEY ARE NEGLECTED AND DISCOURAGED BY HfS SUCCESSOR— MR. COAN'S PARO-
CHIAL CHARGE— SCHOOLS AT HILO-WA1LUKU FALLS-TACCA— INDIGO— SANDALWOOD
—RETURN OF MR. BRACKENRIDGE— EXPEDITION OF MESSRS. BRINSMADE AND DRAY-
TON—LAVA STREAM — PAHUHALI ROAD — GREAT FLOOD OF LAVA — DISTRICT OF
WAIMEA— DISTRICT OF KOHALA— SCHOOL OF BLACKFISH— VISIT OF MR. DRAYTON
TO KILAUEA — DR. PICKERING'S VISIT TO KILAUEA— COMPARISON OF MAUNA KEA
AND MAUNA LOA— GREAT SWELL OF THE SEA IN 1837— EARTHQUAKES-CLOSE OF
OUR OPERATIONS — DESCRIPTION OF THE BAY OF HILO— UNFOUNDED COMPLAINTS
AGAINST THE SAILORS.
R2

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CHAPTER VI.

HAWAII.
1841.

DURING the time of our residence on Mauna Loa, Dr. Pickering and
Mr. Brackenrklge volunteered to make the ascent of Mauna Kea.
They were furnished with guides, among them Sandwich Jack, our
bullock-driver, whose true name I believe was Dawson, though he went
by the sobriquet of Billy Lilly. They set out on the 8t,h of January,
attended by natives from Hilo, belonging to Kanuha, having agreed to
pay each of them fifty cents a day. Their first stage was to the saw-
mill erected on the Wailuku, distant about seven miles from Hilo, and
three miles within the verge of the forest : here they stopped for the
night with a man by the name of Simons, who is the occupant of the
mill, which belongs to a Mr. Castle. The mill, as I understand, had
proved but a bad speculation : it is now out of repair, and there is not.
sufficient demand for boards to make it at all profitable.

In the evening a native from Hilo joined them, and communicated
the information that, the chief Kanuha, who was entitled to one-fourth
of the pay of the natives, was much displeased with them for having
agreed to serve for fifty cents a day, when they should have asked
twelve dollars each for the trip. In consequence of this, they would
not proceed the next day ; and Dr. Pickering determined on returning
to Hilo to have the affair settled. Kanuha disclaimed any participa-
tion in the refusal, and sent a messenger back to order the men to
proceed.

On the 10th of January they resumed their journey, and followed
the "Long Road" for about two miles, which is the whole distance to
which it extends; the removal of the chief who was engaged on it had
put a stop to its further progress. They were now fairly in the forest,

(199)

200 HAWAII.

which was thought by our gentlemen to be a fine one ; it consisted
altogether of two kinds of trees, the ohea (Callistemon), and koa
(Acacia) ; they also met with several species of the tree-fern, which
seem to vie with each other in beauty. Many of these were of genera
and species that had not before been met with, one of which afforded the
silky down before spoken of, and another, the edible fern, a drawing
of which will be seen at the end of this chapter. On reaching the bed
of the stream, which is one of the routes through the wood, the guides
led them upon it. As they proceeded, they overtook one of the boys
who had preceded them, endeavouring to catch a large bird. He
had armed with bird-lime one of the pendent branches of a small ohea
tree that overhung the stream and was in full flower. As they were
passing, the bird was seen hovering about, while the boy was slily
watching its movements. When they had passed it a short distance
they heard the scream of the captured bird, but by some mishap it
afterwards escaped.

Their encampment was under an ohea tree, where the natives built
a hut for them with boughs and the fronds of ferns. From the preva-
lence of heavy rain they found all the wood wet, and could not suc-
ceed in making a fire: they consequently passed a miserable night ; for
in almost any climate, when encamped in the open air at night, a fire
seems to be necessary for comfort, particularly when the weather is wet.

Conglomerates were the most frequent rock in the bed of the stream.
This rock had not been met with on the trip to Mauna I.oa ; and on
diverging from the stream, the compact rock of that mountain seemed
to prevail.

Their guide, Dawson, during the morning showed much alarm at
their starting some young cattle, lest the old cows should be near,
who he thought might be troublesome: the cattle, however, were
discovered afterwards to be tame. At the forks of the stream they
took the left branch, and after a walk of two miles, came to some huts
occupied by natives who had been bullock-hunting. In this illegal
practice they seem to have been extensively engaged, judging from the
quantities of jerked meat they had on hand.

The cattle have been tabooed for five years, from the year 1840, in
consequence of the slaughter that had been made among them. Up-
wards of five thousand hides, I was told, had been procured in a single
year, and when this became known to the government, it interdicted
the hunting of the animal. I heard no estimate of the number of the
wild cattle, but they are believed to be very considerable, and all from
the stock left by Vancouver in 1795.

From these natives they procured some jerked beef, and were told

HAWAII. 201

that ice had formed there the night before. The effects of frost on the
foliage was evident, and yet the elevation did not exceed five thousand
feet.

They encamped at night in an open space in the woods, near some
shallow pools called the Duck-Ponds, from the quantity of these birds
frequenting them. The ground was chiefly covered with tufts of a
small Carex. The trees now began to appear gnarled and covered
with moss, resembling oaks in habit. The ground had become much
drier, and the brushwood was gradually disappearing.

On the 12th, they started at sunrise, and by eleven o'clock found
they had cleared the forest. Their altitude was about six thousand
feet. The woods had become for some time previously much scat-
tered. They passed also a distinct lava stream, of no great size.
The ground was frozen, and the pools of water were covered with a
thin ice.

This upper part of the forest afforded a greater variety of trees,
though of smaller dimensions : here they met with the false sandal-
wood (Myoporum) ; the koa was, however, still the principal tree.

To the forest succeed the plains ; but why this region should be so
termed, our gentlemen were at a loss to conceive, for there is an
ascent, although gradual, towards the base of the higher peaks ; and
there are, besides, numerous conical hills, varying in height from two
to eight hundred feet: even between these the surface is undulating,
and cut up by ravines.

This district is famous, according to report, for the number of wild
cattle found on it, and from that circumstance would be supposed to
produce fine pasturage ; but this is far from being the case, for there
is nothing but a few scattered tufts of grass, and a species of ranun-
culus, which is of so acrid a nature that the cattle will not eat it.
The prevailing feature of the country is aridity, and concealed rocks
cover a great part of it. Shrubs seem to be almost absent, but the
scattered mamanee trees are every where conspicuous.

It was now evident that their guide had taken them a wrong
route, having pursued that leading across the island ; they therefore
changed their course, and took a direction to the northwest, crossing
the country for an eminence, where Mr. Castle, (the proprietor of the
mill,) formerly had a station. When they reached it, they enjoyed a
fine view over the distant forest, with the bay of Hilo and the sea
beyond: the day being clear, the whole extent was distinctly visible;
even a small vessel, which had sailed for Oahu, was seen going out of
the bay.

They chose their encampment just above this eminence, under a
VOL. iv. 20

202 HAWAII.

projecting ledge of lava : close by there were several pools of water
Such pools form in the compact lava ; and where this rock occurs,
water is to be met with at intervals, while in the porous lava none is
to be found.

On the 13th, they set out at an early hour, and passed a belt where
the vegetation became very rich, and the variety great, particularly
on the sheltered banks of the ravines. Among the plants were several
Composites, two or three with decussate leaves, Pelargonium Dou-
glasii, five or six species of ferns, several Rubiacese, grasses, and other
small plants.

About three miles beyond this, they reached a cave, where they
intended to leave the natives and baggage. It was difficult to induce
the former to come up even thus far, on account of the cold; but being
here in the vicinity of wood, they were enabled to have a fire to keep
themselves warm : water was also at hand. This cave was a conve-
nient rendezvous, and sufficiently near the top to allow them time to
reach it and return in a day. Some of the natives had gone down to
a larger cave, three quarters of a mile below.

A few wild cattle were to be seen in the distance; but, according to
the report of Dawson, their guide, they ought to have heard from this
position cattle lowing in every direction.

On the 14th, one of their guides was sent off after a bullock ;
Kanuha, the chief, having granted permission to the party to shoot
one.

Dr. Pickering, Mr. Brackenridge, and Billy Lilly, set out for the
summit. When about three miles above their rendezvous, and having
the high hill of red scoria to the south, they entered upon a plain, of
many miles in extent. On reaching this, the vegetation of temperate
climates almost at once disappeared, and an Arctic flora succeeded.
This plain is made desolate by stones, gravel, sand, scoria, and
boulders: a few scanty blades of two sorts of grasses (Aira and
Panicum), and one or two stone-mosses, were all the verdure, if such
it may be called, that was seen. The whole plain resembled the dry
bed of some great river over which the water had passed for ages.
There was no appearance of lava streams or clinkers, as on Mauna
Loa. In the distance rose six peaks, around whose bases were rough
blocks of lava, while towards their tops scoria of a red colour, with
gravel, prevailed.

On their way, they passed through a gap to the southeast of the
three terminal hills, where stood the stone pen, said to mark the place
where the Rev. Mr. Bingham was once lost. The terminal peaks were
found steep and very fatiguing to ascend ; and when they reached the

HAWAII. 203

summit, they took shelter under a pile of stones — the same that Doug-
lass speaks of. They were unfortunate in the weather, as a cold,
cutting, and strong wind blew from the southwest, sweeping over these
peaks with great force. The water in the bags froze in a few minutes
in the bright sunshine. Their man Dawson, alias Billy Lilly, soon
became weary and exhausted : he was so stiff, that it was with diffi-
culty they could get him to move down to the base of the mountain.
The lee side of the mountain, was a sheet of ice for several hundred
feet down the peaks ; the weather side on the contrary, was covered
with minute icicles pointing to the wind, which, on being walked over,
were detached in numbers.

In the early part of the day, Mauna Loa was in sight ; but when
they reached the summit, the atmosphere became hazy, and conse-
quently their view of the country around was very indistinct. The
terminal crater of Mauna Loa, however, was still perceptible.

The highest peak of Mauna Kea is the southernmost; but our
gentlemen did not visit it, proceeding to the western side of the moun-
tain, until they obtained a view of the slope to the northwest and north.
The lake spoken of by Mr. Goodrich, which lies in the direction of the
highest peak, was not visited.

Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea differ essentially, both in form and
apparent composition. Mauna Loa, as has been seen, is one mass of
lava streams for the distance of four or five thousand feet from its
summit; while Mauna Kea is found to consist almost entirely of
scoria without any craters, unless the conical hills spoken of can be
so considered; which is probable, for they are represented as cup-
shaped on top. Vegetation on the one ceases at about seven thousand
feet; while on the other it is continued to twelve thousand, and a few
scattered plants may even be found within a few hundred feet of the
top of Mauna Kea. The plants also differ: the mamanee occupies a
belt eleven thousand feet high, while none of this plant is to be found
on Mauna Loa.

On their return, they determined to proceed to the lower cave,
where the natives had taken refuge.

On the 15th, they concluded to descend, after making a tour on
this same level, where they found the ground as barren as on the route
by which they had ascended. Small herds of cattle were seen, but at
a great distance apart: these have now become shy, from having been
hunted by Spaniards with horses from California, which were imported
for the express purpose of carrying on systematically the business of
killing the cattle for their hides. These hunters would soon have
exterminated them.

204

HAWAII.

The golden plover is very abundant on the plain, as every where
else ; but is said to quit the islands in the breeding season. No geese
were seen on this mountain ; but many small birds appeared as high
up as the mamanee trees. They also saw hawks, which, by a per-
version of language, are called " crows."

They then went towards " Ned's House," (now deserted,) and took
the path leading in a southeast direction, along the margin of the
woods. This was the route that Douglass followed, when he left
Ned's House, on the morning of his death. In about three quarters
of an hour, they arrived at the pits ; in one of which he was found
dead. They are situated in an open clearing, in the centre of which
is a low marshy spot, sometimes containing water, which the cattle
come in search of. The annexed diagram will give an idea of the
locality. These pits are covered with raspberry and other fragile
bushes; which are covered again with soil, and the hoofs of cattle
imprinted on them, to deceive.

SKETCH OF CATTLE-PITS.

1. Path leading1 from Ned's House. 2. Place where Mr. Douglass left his bundle and dog.
Track towards the pit in which he was found with the bull, gored to death. 3. The pool
of water. 4. The three pits. 5. The fence which surrounds the pool and compels the cattle
to pass over the pits.

The locality of these pits is in a dell, with banks sloping on both
sides: the one to the northwest is about twenty feet high, while that
to the southeast is about thirty feet. On each side, both above and
below, thickets close the dell.

These pits are about seven or eight feet long, and four feet wide,
and are walled up : they are placed broadside to the water.

There were many circumstances attendant upon the death of
Douglass, leading to the suspicion that he had been murdered by Ned,
at whose house he had breakfasted. The general character of Ned
gave rise to a; feeling that such was the fact, he having been a run-
away convict from New South Wales. It seems somewhat singular
that Mr. Douglass should have laid down his bundle and returned after
passing the pits ; and it is remarkable too that his servant, who had
parted from him the same morning, should also have perished.

HAWAII. 205

Ned's conduct afterwards was not a little suspicious, for he men-
tioned he had warned Mr. Douglass against the dangers of these pits,
and had accompanied him to within a short distance of them. So
strong were the suspicions against him, that a post-mortem examination
took place by Drs. Judd and Rooke ; but nothing could be elicited, for
all the wounds were such as Mr. Douglass might have received from
the animal. Few deaths could be more awful than that which he is
supposed to have suffered.

Bullock-hunting seems to partake somewhat of the dangers of the
chase of wild beasts, and has much of its attraction. Many stories
are related of natives having been tossed, gored, and carried on the
animal's horns for hours, and from these reports the natives are easily
alarmed with the appearance even of a half-tamed animal, as we had
abundant reason to observe on our way up Mauna Loa.

A story was related of a native, who, having prepared a pit, suc-
ceeded in entrapping a large bull, but became so excited at his success,
that he slipped and fell in himself; however, being armed with a
knife, he succeeded in killing the animal : when discovered both were
dead.

Mr. Castle had three ribs broken, and Ragsdale, our old guide, a leg
fractured, while hunting; and many other rencontres, partaking too
much of the marvellous to be repeated here, were told me.

They encamped for the night in an old bark hut, in the line of
woods. The 16th was rainy, but they continued their way down the
mountain in a north-northeast direction, passing through the woods.
The path was wretched, and full of mud and mire. The last part of
the way the trees became more numerous, and consisted, besides the
ohea and koa, of the Ilex, Aralia, Myoporum (false sandal wood),
several Composita?, a Silene, and four or five species of Lobelias, with
handsome flowers, mostly blue. Lower down, near a deserted hut,
they unexpectedly found a mamanee tree, which they were told had
been planted for the purpose of enticing the birds.

From scrambling over roots and through mire, they were much
fatigued before they reached Puahai. This village contains a few
straggling houses on the table-land : it is distant about two miles from
the sea and twenty-five miles to the northwest of Hilo. The natives
here appeared to be much more primitive than they were in other
places, and had had but little intercourse with strangers. It was with
some difficulty that provisions could be procured: a dollar was de-
manded for a turkey, and four needles for a chicken. No more than
three of the latter could be found in the village. Their guide met
with considerable delay in getting the necessary quantity to supply the

206 H A VV A 1 1.

party. At Puahai they were permitted to occupy the school-house,
and remained over Sunday.

The coast to the north of Hilo is somewhat peculiar : it is a steep
bluff, rising about two hundred feet; this is cut into small breaks,
called here "gulches," within which the villages are generally situ-
ated, and the natives grow bananas and taro. In some places they
cultivate small patches of sugar-cane, which succeed well.

These gulches are ravines, from eight hundred to one thousand feet
deep, which have apparently been worn by water-courses : they
extend back to the woods, and have made the country impassable for
either vehicles or riders on horseback, for no sooner is one passed
ihan another occurs. There is no landing for boats, for all along the
shore the surf beats on the rocks with violence.

Mr. Castle's residence was reached the next day : it is about seven
miles from Hilo. He has been turning his attention to the cultivation
of coffee, and has now a plantation of several thousand trees in and
among the coast-craters, which is in a fine condition.

Mr. Castle is a carpenter, and has erected and owns some of the
mills on the island.

They walked the next day to Hilo. On approaching it they saw
many bread-fruit trees, with the fruit lying under them rotting : for the
natives never think of eating it so long as they can get taro, or the
sweet-potato ; and, seemingly, it has lost its value in their eyes.

On my return to Hilo, finding the survey of the bay had not been
begun, we commenced it immediately. Lieutenant Alden, whilst
putting up a signal on the north point was upset in the surf, and
narrowly escaped being drowned. He was saved by the Kanakas,
who were part of the boat's crew. The surf, as I have before re-
marked, is too heavy to allow a boat to land on this shore.

An accident also occurred to the launch, while watering, during our
stay. Mr. Vanderford, who had charge of her, was passing out of the
Wailuku river, off the point of which the boat entered the breakers,
and a heavy roller capsized her : being heavily laden with water, she
sunk, and drifted out, leaving those who were in her in danger of
drowning. Mr. Vanderford could not swim, but a native came at
once to his assistance, who, however, would do nothing until he was
promised two dollars, which of course a drowning man was not
long in doing, when he acted promptly and rescued the officer from
drowning.

In order to give the native a lesson as to his conduct in demanding
money in such a situation, lie was told that he would have received
twice as much if he had not made the demand. It is due, however, to

HAWAII. 207

this fellow to say, that in all probability he never imagined there was
any danger of loss of life ; for if these people are at home any where, it
is certainly in the surf, enjoying as a pleasure what we from our want
of knowledge and confidence in the art of swimming, consider dan-
gerous.

Some account will now be given of the proceedings of the officers
left in the Vincennes, and of the festivities which they exchanged with
the chief Kanuha and the missionaries.

Lieutenant Carr, who had charge of the ship, was also, with the
officers under him, entrusted with the duties of the observatory, in-
cluding the meteorological and tidal observations. Acting Master
Totten and Passed Midshipman May were engaged on the charts.

Among the festivities was one given by the chief Kanuha to the
officers. Kanuha lives in a large native house, situated on the south
side of the bay, in a pretty location near the beach, and surrounded
by large trees, which not only add to its beauty, but afford the shade
so important in this climate.

The chief is, like all those of noble blood of these islands, of large
dimensions, and might be called a fine-looking man. He is thought to
regard his own interest before that of others, and is desirous of making
money when and how he can. His wife is equally remarkable among
her sex in size. He was dressed in a blue roundabout and white pan-
taloons, hat, and shoes; his wife and females about the house were
chiefly dressed in calico gowns, such as have been before described.
Lieutenant Case, Messrs. Waldron and Drayton, and two or three
midshipmen, went to the feast or dinner. The hour of dinner was one
o'clock. They were received with much dignity in an apartment
which occupied the whole house, and was decorated with green
wreaths, not unlike our churches at Christmas. This room contained
all the goods and chattels of the proprietor, consisting of two bed-
steads, good beds and bedding, tapa screens, nests of beautiful camphor
trunks, fine mats, common chairs, with several large chests, said to
contain much riches. The visitors were presented by Kanuha to his
wife, her sister, and his five daughters : the former were robed in
neatly-made black silk dresses, with high-topped combs in their heads.
Kanuha's youngest daughter, however, seemed to make the most im-
pression. She and her sisters were dressed in painted-muslin dresses,
white stockings, and shoes; their heads were tastefully ornamented
with the valuable feather-wreath, before spoken of, and a garland or
wreath of a carmine-coloured flower, natural to the island ; in their
hair behind were enormous high-topped shell-combs ; a red silk sash,
and a sweet-scented evergreen garland thrown over their shoulders,

208 HAWAII.

hanging nearly to the ground, completed their costume. During the
presentation, the females took off their evergreen scarfs and wreaths,
and placed them upon our gentlemen, quickly getting others for them-
selves.

The attendants were in great numbers ; each of them had one of
these wreaths hanging from one shoulder to the opposite hip.

The table was spread with a white cloth, and just enough plates to
accommodate the guests. Our gentlemen, however, insisted that the
host and hostess, with their daughters, should sit down with them ; and
knives and forks being brought, they all joined the feast. The dinner
consisted of pig, pork, roast turkey, and luaud fowls, sweet-potatoes,
taro, &c. ; the meats were divided into eight courses, and most of
them were deliciously cooked ; for dessert, they had watermelons and
bananas. The entertainment went off well. At three o'clock part of
the officers returned on board, while the rest went with the young
women, by invitation, to bathe.

A few days afterwards this compliment was reciprocated, Kanuha
and his household dining on board. They were highly delighted with
the attentions and ceremonies, which were all quite new to them, as
neither the missionaries nor residents ever receive natives at their
table, not even the king. Their behaviour was quite decorous, and
they seemed to enjoy every thing that was set before them, particu-
larly the wine.

Pea and his family were also guests. Pea is the king's agent, and
has charge of the fish-ponds, although he is not chief of the district: he
speaks some English, and is under the patronage of the missionaries ;
he lives on the Waiakea side, in a large grass-house, near the fish-
ponds. The latter cover many acres, and have a great many fine
mullet in them, very few of which are caught, as they are reserved for
the king or his representative Pea, and his family. From this cause,
the fish have multiplied to a great number, and are in very fine order
for the table.

Kanuha is the representative of Governor Adams, who is the ruler
of the five districts of Hawaii, of which Hilo is one. Adams had been
in Hilo shortly before our arrival, but was not able to remain, and is so
enormously unwieldy, that it is with difficulty he can move about.
Kanuha collects all the taxes, acts as magistrate, and from all accounts
is a very energetic one.

I have before spoken of the fruitfulness of this side of the island of
Hawaii : the sugar-cane grows here in abundance, and of a large size;
coffee succeeds well, as do indigo and the tacca, from which they
make a quantity of arrow-root.

HAWAII. 209

For the manufacture of sugar, Governor Adams owns a small mill,
in charge of two or three Chinamen ; but it is in a wretched condition.
It is worked by a small stream of water led from the Wailuku river.
The quantity of sugar made in the year 1840 was about thirty tons;
but with a well-adapted mill, and under good management, a much
larger quantity might be made, for much of the cane is now suffered to
rot from want of facilities to grind it. The natives now understand its
culture well, and each has a small patch. If a demand was created
for sugar, the cultivation might be greatly extended. The cane comes
to perfection in twelve months. There is certainly a large field open
here for enterprising individuals, as much of the land now lying waste
in the neighbourhood is admirably adapted to this cultivation, and
might be obtained on lease from the government for a small price.

Mr. Castle has a mill, also, about seven miles north of Hilo, which
he uses, I was told, to great profit, although it is but a small concern.

The only extensive plantation of coffee that I heard of was that of
Mr. Castle, which, however, is not yet old enough to produce crops.
Some isolated trees in gardens at Hilo have yielded eight or nine
pounds of coffee each ; and the calculation is, that the average yield of
each tree will be equal to that amount.

Mr. Goodrich, the missionary who preceded Mr. Coan, was very
desirous of introducing the culture of sugar-cane and coffee, and became
very active in promoting it. With the assistance of the natives he
planted a large number of coffee trees, and was bent upon instructing
them in the mode of cultivating both. He also erected a small sugar-
mill. I regretted much to hear that his successor viewed all these
improvements in a far different light, and, not content to allow the trees
to fall into neglect, he actually took the trouble to root them up, in
order to arrest the progress of the improvement of the natives in their
culture.

I walked round the garden with the missionary, and saw all the
vines, fruit, and ornamental trees, to which his predecessor had paid so
much attention, and in which he had taken such pride, going to waste.
One would have thought that the spirit of his calling would have dic-
tated a more worthy and enlightened course. I never was more satisfied
with the folly of such a step, than when the question was asked me by
an intelligent native, " Why the missionaries no like grow sugar-cane
and coffee ?" I could not but believe that the intelligent lady of the
establishment, with her numerous scholars, would have been well
employed in superintending the garden, and that it would have proved
a source of recreation as well as of profitable industry to all concerned.

The districts of Hilo and Puna are embraced under the same pastor,

VOL. IV. S2 27

210 HAWAII.

the Rev. Mr. Coan. It is the largest charge in the group, and accord-
ing to the last census, contains twelve thousand inhabitants. In 1840,
seven thousand of these were reported as communicants, forming
twenty separate congregations, all of which are under the charge of
native catechists, and are visited quarterly by the missionary for inspec-
tion, instruction, discipline, and the Lord's Supper. All the communi-
cants meet yearly at Hilo.

Being much engaged with the natives, I had a fair opportunity of
observing their improvement in religious knowledge ; and I regret to
say, that it is not such as I anticipated from the accounts that were
given me, or equal to what it ought to be from the exertions of their
pastor ; for, while I cannot but condemn the course he has pursued in
rooting up the coffee plantations, and overturning the good works of his
predecessor, I must do him the justice to say, he is untiring in his
clerical duties, and his field is one of constant labour, both of mind and
body.

In giving an account of the wants of his parishioners, he includes
the following, viz.: lawyers, doctors, teachers, artists, agriculturists,
manufacturers, preachers, and, above all, money.

The schools were in the first place composed of adults and children,
and numbered five thousand scholars ; but now they are confined to
children, between two and three thousand of whom attend school,
being one-sixth of the population.

With regard to the population of this district, I have no positive
proof of its decrease. Children are, indeed, said to be few, but the
numbers that are reported as attending the schools show that there is
as large a proportion of them as in other countries.

There is at Hilo a boarding-school for boys, under the care of Mr.
and Mrs. Lyman, which was established in 1836. This school is sus-
tained by annual grants of the American Board of Commissioners for
Foreign Missions and by lay donations.

The number of scholars at the time of our visit was fifty-three, fifteen
of whom had just been received, and seventeen had been lately sent
to the high-school at Lahainaluna. Twelve more were preparing to
join that school. The annual expense of each scholar is from sixteen
to eighteen dollars : the boys raise about one-fourth of the food they
consume. They cultivate a little sugar-cane, which was estimated to
be worth fifty dollars the last year. The boys eat at a common table :
the dormitory is eighty feet long, by twenty-eight feet wide, and im-
mediately over the school-room; each bed-place is partitioned off into
a small room, with mats, six feet by four. The whole is extremely
neat and clean.

HAWAII. 211

The boys in this school appear more cheerful than any others I
have seen in this group; all of them look remarkably healthy, and,
indeed, robust for these islands. They are fed upon poe, one of the
most nutritious articles of food, and thrive proportionately ; they
were, in fact, the largest boys of their respective ages that I saw on
the islands.

Through the kindness of Mr. Lyman, I was present at an examina-
tion of the scholars : sacred geography and arithmetic were the two
branches most dwelt upon ; the exercises in mental arithmetic would
have done credit to our own country, for they were quite as proficient
in them as could possibly have been expected. I was much pleased
with the arrangements of the dormitory, eating-rooms, hospital, and
with the appearance of the " farm," or few acres they had under culti-
vation. It was very evident that system and good order prevailed
throughout. The dormitory, particularly, appeared to me well calcu-
lated to promote health, and give notions of comfort foreign to the
ideas of a native.

Mr. and Mrs. Lyman seem quite competent to the charge, particu-
larly the latter ; for one cannot but perceive the hand of the mistress
pervading throughout. This and Mrs. Coan's school for girls, are
decidedly the best-conducted establishments, I saw in the Pacific. I
cannot pass by the latter without adding a few words.

Mrs. Coan had been kind enough to ask me to appoint an hour to
attend the examination of her pupils, or to come when I could. My
employments placed it out of my power to select a time, and I took
advantage of her general invitation to drop in when I was quite un-
expected. I was very kindly received, and found her with all her
scholars seated around, some hard at work with the needle, and some
reading. My entrance occasioned little or no disturbance, either to
the lady or her scholars ; and the regular routine of the school went
on. It gave me great pleasure to see what the industry, talent, and
zeal of my countrywoman had accomplished ; for by her untiring
assiduity this school had been established, and is kept up. The whole
care devolves upon her of maintaining, clothing, and educating these
children ; and the only aid she receives is through the donations of
parents and strangers, and what little the girls can earn by sewing for
the storekeeper.

The accommodations for this school are far inferior to those for the
boys ; and I must say, I felt some astonishment that the Board of
Managers had not given it a helping hand. When it is stated that
Mrs. Coan has young children of her own, without servants to whom
she can trust them, it will be seen that the task of taking under her

212 HAWAII.

charge twenty-three native girls for education, clothing, and food, is
one of no ordinary labour. She is one of the most useful of the mis-
sionaries ; and were it not for the less liberal notions of her husband,
would be much more so. I could not but perceive that his interference
in the matter of this school is detrimental to the progress of the scholars
in civilization : when this is the case, it cannot advance their progress
in true religion.

The number of district schools in Hilo and Puna, is said to amount
to one hundred ; but of these I saw only one, which was under Mr.
Wilcox, a teacher attached to the mission. This was kept in the old
church. The numbers in attendance varied from sixty to eighty, con-
sisting of all ages between five and fifteen.

I was in the habit of passing this building almost daily, during
the latter part of my stay, and frequently was much amused at the
behaviour of the scholars and their teacher. These little boys are
for the most part nearly naked; but what they wanted in clothes
they made up in curiosity, and on my passing on Kanuha's white
horse, out they would come without the consent of their teacher. On
one occasion, I was not a little amused at his attempts to restrain
them, through which a kind of hurry-skurry ensued, as though so
many rats were escaping from a cage ; all the teacher could do,
escape they would ; and w?hen he ran to one door to close it, they
would nimbly seek the other, until none were left but such as he had
tumbled over. I could not help laughing at this scene. This will
give some idea of the difficulties to be sometimes encountered here in
teaching, although I would not have the reader suppose that such is
the case always.

During our stay at Hilo, I visited the Rainbow Fall : it is about
a mile and a half from Hilo, and is well worthy of a visit. The
Wailuku river, which I have mentioned as dividing the village of
Paneo from that of Hilo, here descends about one hundred and
twenty feet into a circular basin, formed apparently by the caving
in of the lava, with which the whole country is covered : the strata
of sand and clay has in places become undermined, and has left
the ledge over which the fall shoots, projecting beyond the walls
of the basin. This has the effect to bring the water in broad relief,
and the height is sufficient to dissipate it into foarn before it reaches
the quiet and secluded nook below: this causes a fluctuation in
the quantity of spray that is constantly arising, which being agitate 1
by the breeze, throws it about in various directions, and with a
bright sun, causes innumerable rainbows to be seen, from those of
great brightness to the most delicate tints. The walls showing the

HAWAII.

213

basaltic formation add much to this effect, and might almost lead
one to fancy the basin had been built by fairy hands, to enchant the
visiter.

WA1LUKU FALLS, HAWAII.

The missionaries often make visits to this beautiful spot in the
evening, and one of the first places of interest that they point out to a
stranger are these falls. The basin into which they fall is also a
favourite resort of the natives for bathing.

The tacca, from which the arrow-root is made, is not cultivated ;
although it grows wild all over the island. It is gathered and pre-
pared by the natives ; but they are not sufficiently careful when they
dig up the large roots, to replace the smaller tubers in the ground.
From this neglect, the plant is on the decrease. I was told that
attempts were making to cultivate it: it grows well in the upland
regions, in the poor soil, covered with fragments of lava, which is un-
suited for any other culture.

Their mode of preparing the tacca for use is simply by first washing,

214 HAWAII.

then scraping and straining it through fine leaves. After standing
awhile, the fecula settles, when the water is poured off. The fecula
is then made into small cakes with the hand, by which operation it is
freed from the remaining water ; and it is then placed in the sun to
dry. The manufacture of this article is generally limited to the
quantity necessary for furnishing each of the females with a calico
frock. This of course does not amount to any very great quantity,
in a commercial point of view ; but will yet be considered large, when
the manner in which it is gathered is considered. I was informed,
that the quantity shipped to Oahu yearly, was two hundred thousand
pounds ; and that the price paid for it was two or three cents a pound,
in goods. At Honolulu, it is sold at a profit of one hundred per cent,
to the shipper.

Indigo might be made a profitable culture; for it grows wild in
many parts of the island, and in great luxuriance. It is naturalized at
Hilo, where I learned that some experiments had been made, which
leave little doubt that if it were cultivated, it would be found to be
equally valuable with that of the West Indies.

Sanda'lwood, it is well known, was the first article that brought this
people into notice, gave importance to the islands, and tempted
foreigners to visit them. The chiefs, finding they had a store of
treasure, believed it to be inexhaustible; and were tempted, by their
own cupidity and that of their visitors, to cut it without stint. The
course of this trade led to all sorts of tyranny and oppression by the
chiefs towards their dependants. The trees have been for some years
tabooed ; but this plan was adopted too late to preserve any of large
size. Those which were not cut down for sale, it is said were de-
stroyed by the natives, to prevent impositions being practised upon
them. Not unfrequently, the chiefs would despatch their dependants
to the mountains, with nothing to eat but what they could gather from
the forest of ferns, the core of whose trunk supplied them with a
scanty and precarious subsistence. These hardships were enough to
cause whole tracts to become waste. It will be a long time before the
remainder of these trees are large enough to become an article of
commerce.

Mr. Brackenridge on his return from the mountain passed from the
volcano to the sea-board at Papapala. He found the whole country
to the southwest of the crater a flat barren waste of smooth lava,
mixed with fields of drifted scoria, and with bundles of capillary glas-,
or Pole's hair, hanging to the few stunted tufts of Silene and Compo-
sita3. This character continues to within six miles of the sea, when
the lava becomes more rough, and bushes of Metrosideros and Sophora

HAWAII. 215

(mamanee) succeed, and extend to the edge of a precipice, whose
height was estimated at six hundred feet. This precipice is faced
with loose blocks of lava, thickly overgrown with bushes and trees.
Among these was an amaranthaceous shrub of great beauty. From
the base of this precipice to the sea-cliff, is a flat plain of smooth
glassy lava, with some rents and crevices. In these grew the Agati
grandiflora, which here assumed a prostrate habit, Daphnes, and some
rubiaceous shrubs, and several grasses. Against the cliff, which is
perpendicular, the sea breaks with great violence.

Mr. Brackenridge succeeded in procuring a few shells, among
which were some Patellas, a Nerita, a Trochus, and Chiton. He
estimated the distance from the volcano to the sea at fourteen miles,
in a south-southwest direction.

He left the sea after two o'clock, and did not reach the volcano
until eight or nine in the evening, having been obliged to feel his way
back with a pole, to avoid the rents. This part of the island is unin-
habitable, in consequence of its being devoid of water as well as soil,
and not a single native was seen during the whole day. A few wild-
cats and one goat were all the animals that were seen.

On the morning of the 23d, Messrs. Brinsmade, Drayton, Bracken-
ridge, and Midshipman Elliott, took their leave of the Recruiting
Station, with an allowance of two biscuits. After a very fatiguing
walk, they reached the volcano at dark. Midshipman Elliott the next
morning departed for Hilo, with my despatches for the ship.

On Christmas-day, the ingenuity of the consul procured a turkey for
the party, which was trussed and cooked in a steam-vent by one of
the natives.

Having procured guides and natives to carry the provisions which
they had obtained from those going to the mountain, they concluded
to leave the volcano on the 28th, for the lava plain. They first struck
it the same evening, but not having time to halt, they passed to Panau,
a distance of nine miles, and on their way found several very interest-
ing mosses and ferns.

After passing the night at Panau, on the morning of the 31st, they
set oft' for the first outbreak of May 30th, 1840.

. The first flow of lava which they saw was that to the eastward of
Moku-opuhi : it consisted of a bed of smooth lava in the centre, with
many cracks, and here and there sulphur strewed around, from which
the fumes were issuing in great quantities. Pieces of pumice as large
as a man's head were not uncommon, and of the colour of ashes.
These extended about three miles in length, by one-third of a mile in
width. This stream of lava was fifteen feet above the general level,

218 HAWAII.

and appeared to have been vomited forth through a chain of vents in
a highly heated state, spreading destruction around, and leaving not a
vestige of the forest remaining, although it covered a space of about
two miles square. Scoria which had been pressed or had run off to
the edges, had overthrown all the bushes and trees with which it had
come in contact; these remained unconsumed, proving conclusively
that the scoria had been much less heated, or had cooled so rapidly as
not to have injured the vegetation.

The direction of the course of this stream was east-northeast, through
a dense forest. Owing to the great roughness of the field, they were
not able to walk upon it: its margin was equally impassable, owing to
the entangled state of the bushes and trees, which had been pressed
together by the lava. Taking a parallel course with this eruption,
they suddenly came upon a pit-crater, which is named on the map
" the Old Crater." This they found to be one hundred and fifty feet
deep, and covered with bushes ; its diameter is about one mile. To-
wards the centre, steam was issuing from some small cracks. They
now ascended part of Moku-opuhi, but found themselves soon on the
edge of another pit-crater, the deepest they had yet seen : the walls
of this appeared to be of more recent date than the others, for the north
part of the hill bounded it, and it was supposed to be eighteen hundred
feet deep.

The old bank to the south was clothed with bushes : the part of
this which they ascended proved very treacherous to the footing, and
occasioned no small panic, as it gave way underneath their feet,
threatening them with instant destruction.

On the 1st of January, they pursued some of the steam-vents, until
they reached the Pahuhali road. Here Mr. Brinsmade left them, to
proceed on his way to Hilo, where he shortly afterwards embarked
for Oahu, with his health (as he wrote me) quite re-established, not-
withstanding the fatigue and exposure he had undergone. To his
agreeable disposition on the journey, and his kind attention to us during
our stay in these islands, we feel ourselves greatly indebted.

Messrs. Drayton and Brackenridge continued their route to Pahu-
hali, where they procured a guide to take them to the lava stream.
Pahuhali is a small village situated one and a half miles from it. They
soon reached the great flow, which had spread destruction throughout
its course, leaving nothing standing that came in its way. It was
from one to three miles wide : down its middle was seen the lorg
channel or rent from which the stream had poured forth, running for
the most part smooth, though occasionally in wrinkled and twisted
forms, the scoria lying on the outer extremities of the flow, as though

HAWAII. 217

it had been borne on the surface of the molten mass, and thrown off
on one side.

After surveying about five miles of its extent and to within three
of its termination at the sea, they returned to Pahuhali, passing through
an extensive bamboo-brake in the forest, many of whose stems were
five inches in diameter. The next day they returned to the ship at Hilo.

The district of Waimea is situated on the northwest side of the
island. So much of the soil of this district as lies along the coast,
though rich, is badly watered, and seven or eight miles in the interior
from Kawaihae Bay, it becomes exceedingly rocky and barren. The
amount of the good land is supposed to be about one hundred square
miles, and the greater part of this lies on the eastern side, where it is
well watered. The face of this district combines hills, valleys, plains,
and mountains.

The high land to the eastward of Kawaihae causes an almost perpe-
tual calm. This mountain region is rocky, and has a burnt appear-
ance until the eastern side of the mountain is reached, when a dense
forest and a most luxuriant vegetation succeed.

On the south are Mauna Kea and the barren lava plains. The
latter lie, as we have seen, between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa,
where desolation reigns. In this plain is said to be the remains of
a pathway, upwards of a mile in length, of flat stones, leading to
the temple of Kaili, before described in Messrs. Peale and Rich's
journey.

The climate of this district is, upon the whole, unpleasant, particu-
larly at Waimea, in consequence of the trade-wind, which is exceed-
ingly strong, bringing with it a mist towards sunset. This wind
rushes furiously down between the mountains which bound the valley
of Waimea, and becomes very dangerous to shipping in the bay. It
is called by the natives " mumuku," and is foretold by them from an
illuminated streak that is seen far inland. This is believed to be
caused by the reflection of the twilight on the mist that always accom-
panies the mumuku.

The productions of Waimea are the same as those of the other
districts, but it abounds also in timber of good size and quality for
building. This was the famous sandalwood district, whence Kame-
hameha procured the cargoes which he sold for the Canton market.
As I have before remarked, there are now no trees left larger than
mere saplings. The niau, or bastard sandalwood, is plentiful, and
considered as a fine wood for building.

Waimea was also the principal place of export for hides, tallow,
and beef. Of these articles only a small amount is now exported,

VOL. iv. T 28

218 HAWAII..

owing to the taboo on cattle. Leather is here tanned in sufficient
quantities to meet the wants of the domestic manufacture, and there
are many trees having astringent barks, adapted to the use of the
tanner.

A species of morus abounds in the forests : from this, a tapa is made
that is highly esteemed, and which is exported to other parts of the
island.

The cultivation in this district is much affected by the annoyance of
caterpillars, which prove very destructive to the crops.

Waimea enjoys frequent communication with Honolulu, which
affords the best market in the group. Besides, there are three or four
stores, kept by foreigners, for trade and barter.

In 1830, Waimea was first brought into notice by Governor Adams,
who took up his residence there for the purpose of taking the wild
cattle, that had become extremely numerous. While he remained in
it, there was much activity and life : all trades found employment ;
roads were made, and ox-carts travelled a distance of fifty miles. Now,
since the taboo has been laid, the place is comparatively deserted ; and
unless the cultivation of the soil be resorted to, it will, before many
years, become a barren waste.

During the period of its prosperity, many of the habitations of the
natives were improved, and they advanced much in civilization. Some
of them own horses and cattle, and are industrious; but the mass, who
have lived on this precarious employment, and found their subsistence
in that way, have become, since it ceased, more indolent than before.

In this district there are forty-two schools ; half of these are for
adults and half for children ; all are taught by native teachers, except-
ing two, which are under the instruction of the missionary, the Rev.
Mr. Lyons and his wife. In these there are about four hundred children
and five hundred adults.

The population is registered at six thousand five hundred, of whom
four thousand seven hundred and fifty-four can read ; about one-fourth
of this number write and understand some arithmetic ; nearly four
hundred study geography. The number of communicants is two
thousand eight hundred and fifty-six.

From a comparison of births and deaths, the population would seem
to be decreasing. Of the former there were registered in 1839 one
hundred and sixty-nine, of the latter two hundred and thirteen. Of
marriages there were about fifty in the year.

Infanticide does not exist in this district, nor is intemperance a
common vice ; ava, made from fermented potatoes, is considerably
used, and also tobacco.

HAWAII. 219

The diseases are fevers, inflammation, and scrofula.

The opinion generally prevails, that the natives of the Sandwich
Islands have an abundance of food, and are not exposed to any hard-
ships ; but this I found to be extremely erroneous ; for, with the excep-
tion of chiefs, and those immediately connected with them, they often
suffer as much as the poor of other countries. As civilization advanced
this suffering seems to have increased, partly owing to the decrease of
food, and partly to the diminution in the authority of the chiefs. Many
were formerly obliged to labour for the chiefs, by whom they were in
turn supported ; these are now compelled to trust to their own resources
for support, and seldom can be brought to work until they are driven
by necessity.

The Kohala district lies on the north point of Hawaii, and is divided
from that of Waimea by a range of mountains. The soil on the lee-
ward shore is barren from three to five miles inland. On the windward
shore it is of good quality quite to the beach. The face of the country
is regular, gradually ascending from the coast to the summit of the
high lands.

Kohala, the residence of the missionary, the Rev. Mr. Bliss, is the
principal place in this district. The view from that place is pleasing;
in front is a fine prospect of the ocean, with the island of Maui in the
rear ; the ground gradually rises from the shore to the volcanic peaks
of Mauna Kea, tipped with snow ; while on the right and left are
extensive forests and uncultivated fields.

In this district it is estimated that there are fifty thousand acres of
good arable land, much of which is fit for the plough, and suitable for
the growth of sugar-cane, Indian corn, potatoes, the mulberry, and the
other productions of the country. The country inland, especially, is
well suited to the culture of the common potato. It is also well adapted
for grazing, but is now a waste. The natives only raise sufficient taro,
sugar-cane, and sweet-potatoes, for their own use, and a very small
patch suffices to supply their wants. Some of them attempt to carry a
small quantity of their produce, on their backs or in canoes, to
Kawaihae, for sale, but this is of little account. One of the natives,
however, has been induced to begin the erection of a sugar-mill.

Little has been done by the inhabitants towards the improvement of
their dwellings: these are very small and often exceedingly filthy : the
doors are from two and a half to three feet high. A few attempts have
been made to erect larger houses, and to improve the quality of the
thatch; but the people do not seem inclined to change their former
modes of life.

220 HAWAII.

To give some idea of the state of these people and their wants. It
is admitted by all, that licentiousness prevails to a great extent among
the people, even at present, but to a far less degree than formerly :
then promiscuous intercourse was almost general, — men were living
with several wives, and vice versa. No improvement in this respect
had been made, until the missionaries began their labours. To them
this nation owes its moral code, and the enactment of laws respecting
marriage. A native's idea of luxury does not extend beyond poe and
fish, with which he usually seems satisfied, and when they are ob-
tained ceases all exertion. To overcome this inertness, it is requisite
that they should, as some few do, feel artificial wants, which cause
them to look about for employment. Even these are so few that they
are soon satisfied. It is said a native may be supported in the Ha-
waiian Islands for two or three cents a day : on some of the islands
they receive no more than seventy-five cents per week, and even this
is paid to them in tickets, entitling them to goods to that amount from
the store of their employer, who pays them in this way at an advance
of fifty to one hundred per cent. ; this brings the value of their labour
for the week (six days) down to twenty-five or thirty cents. This is
all the inducement the commercial men or foreign residents hold out to
the natives to work.

The population of the Kohala district consists of six thousand four
hundred ; and during a year and a half it has diminished between four
and five hundred, owing in part to emigration. As to the other causes
of decrease, if they exist, there are no facts to show it.

The schools are not attended with any regularity : sometimes they
are crowded, at other times thinly attended. This is attributed to the
want of proper teachers, and on the part of the parents to a want of
interest in the education of their children. About one thousand two
hundred children are regarded as scholars in the different schools ; one
hundred of these are taught in the station school, under the care and
personal superintendence of the missionaries. At the last examination
of these schools, eight hundred were present, four hundred and sixty
of whom are able to read, several can write, and a few have made
some advancement in mental and written arithmetic. Of the adults in
the schools, there were one thousand one hundred who could read
intelligibly.

The church was organized in this district in 1838, and in 1840
there were nine hundred and fifty who professed Christianity, though
it is believed that all are not Christians.

Mr. Bliss states that the people of Kohala are intemperate in the use

HAWAII. 221

of tobacco, and that he has known some deaths from this cause. He,
however, bears testimony, that there is some reformation in regard to
this debasing habit.

The diseases are very similar to those mentioned in other places,
with the exception of several cases of decided consumption which
have been met with. The climate is believed to be, upon the whole,
more healthy than other parts of the island, and the weather is gene-
rally cool, with a bracing air.

On the 12th of February, I witnessed an interesting sight, — the
chase of blackfish, of which a school was seen in the afternoon in the
bay. Upon this, the natives who were fishing, and those on shore,
put off in their canoes to get to seaward of them : when this was
effected, they began making a great noise, to drive the fish in ; and
finally succeeded in forcing many of them into shoal water, from
whence they were dragged on the beach, when about twenty of large
size were taken. I measured one, which was eight and a half feet
long. The whole scene was animated, and the fish seemed completely
bewildered and exhausted from fright. They afforded a fine feast to
all the inhabitants of the bay, besides yielding plenty of oil, of which
they are very fond. The moment a school of porpoises is discovered,
it is their usual practice to drive them in, gently at first, but when
they are sufficiently close, a loud clamour begins, in which old and
young of both sexes join.

Mr. Drayton was, with the exception of Dr. Pickering, the last to
visit the crater. On the road to Keaui, the former examined a curious
cave, called by the natives Pariorii, which is said to have been one of
the dancing-halls of the attendants of the goddess Pele. This legend
also points out the drums upon which the music was performed.
These are hollow cones or pillars formed by the lava blistering up,
and remaining hollow : when struck, they give a deep sound, not unlike
that from a large drum. The cave is said to have been much cur-
tailed in its dimensions about a century ago.

At all the small places along the coast there are some petty officers,
mostly connected with and appointed by the missionaries. Besides the
religious duties they perform, they are likewise tax-gatherers, have a
good deal of authority over the people, and were found to be the
greatest extortioners our gentlemen met with.

At some of the houses, the natives were seen to be very much afraid
of the tax-gatherers, and when any of them made their appearance, all
merriment would cease ; those who were indulging in a pipe or cigar,
would at once put them aside, and all seemed under restraint.

The native women are generally found employed, either in plaiting

T2

222 HAWAII.

hats from the flowering stock of the sugar-cane, or making mats from
the bleached leaves of the pandanus.

At some of the houses where Mr. Drayton stopped, the women
were dressed as they are represented when dancing, in the figures of
Cook and Vancouver's voyages ; they are still permitted to dance, but
the song called hoori-hoori is forbidden on account of its indecency.

Dr. Pickering was the last who visited the crater of Kilauea. He
passed towards the lava stream by the way of Pahuhali, having John
the pilot as his guide, and spent the first night about three miles to the
south of that place. The inhabitants were found to have returned to
their place of residence, and were again cultivating the ground.

He crossed the recent lava near its upper part, and found it over-
lying the soil, about twelve feet in thickness, having a surface resem-
bling the " black ledge," with the friable vitreous crust before remarked.
Towards the margin of the stream he found many trees, two feet in
diameter, which the lava had flowed around and burnt off. The road
passed between two patches of lava, and had not been burnt as the
natives had reported ; crevices, however, passed across, and divided
the road. After exploring these parts, Dr. Pickering proceeded to
Kaimo, which was found to be a large village, scattered along the
beach for one and a half miles. Cocoa-nut trees were observed to be
more numerous here than at any other place on the island.

They here found a well-built school-house, kept by a native teacher.
This place has seldom been visited by foreigners, and the consequence
was a very great curiosity to see the strangers. The proportion of
children was larger than usual.

From Kaimo, Dr. Pickering passed along the coast, which is formed
of lava that breaks off suddenly, and leaves a perpendicular cliff, from
thirty to sixty feet high, against which the sea breaks with violence.
Along this coast houses are rarely to be met with, and when they are
seen it is at those points where, from accident or other causes, there is
a breach in the lava.

Owing to the porous nature of the lava, the dwellers on the shore
are at times much distressed for water, and resort to various devices
to obtain it. In some places they use the leaves of the ti plant (Dra-
caena) fastened together; also boards set obliquely, with calabashes
underneath, to catch the drops of rain ; and in other cases the cala-
bashes are set to obtain the drippings from the roofs.

Dr. Pickering reached Panau, and afterwards the patches of the
recent eruption which lie in the vicinity of the pit-crater of Alealea-nui,
and found them unaltered since they had been seen by me. What
seems remarkable, there was no earthquake felt at Hilo before, during

HAWAII. 223

the time of, or after the eruption. It has been mentioned, that some
slight shocks were felt in the neighbourhood of Nanavalie, but they are
reported as being very frequent and violent at Kealakeakua Bay, on
the opposite side of the island, though much more remote from the
scene of destruction than Hilo.

Two of the missionaries were once on the black ledge, looking
down on the burning lake, when an earthquake took place which was
felt over the whole island : no change took place in the lake, or else-
where in the crater, excepting that some pieces of stones were shaken
down from the surrounding walls.

From all the information I could obtain, the causes of the earth-
quakes do not appear to be connected with the action of the volcanoes.
The accounts, however, are contradictory, and depend principally
upon native testimony, which is not to be relied on in such observa-
tions. It is to be hoped, that the resident missionaries will endeavour
to devote a small portion of their time to the interesting phenomena of
these eruptions.

Dr. Pickering reached Kilauea on the 22d of January, where he
found the large lake, according to his estimation, still about thirty feet
below the rim, to which height it had again risen. If this estimate
was accurate, it would prove a rapid formation of lava, for only ten
days had elapsed since we had seen it many feet lower. About 9
p. M. of the same day, a large part of the southern bank fell in at
once, producing a great light, and surging to and fro for some minutes,
the surface of the fluid rising sometimes even with the rim.

According to the native account, the crater is more active at night
than in the day, but this probably arises from its greater apparent
brilliancy.

The small or Judd's Lake, was still overflowing in all directions,
and this action had continued for the last ten days. According to
Dr. Pickering's account, it was not as active as on its first outbreak.
A vast quantity of lava had been poured out since our last visit, and
there was a very perceptible increase of it in the crater.

I have before remarked the great difficulty of retaining a knowledge
of the situation and relative position of things, on first descending on
the "black ledge." This was evident from Dr. Pickering's not
recollecting objects which must have been seen by him.

The way he accounts for this is, that every thing at first was so
novel, and excited so much wonder and astonishment, that it made no
lasting or distinct impression ; but after proceeding for some time, this
appears to have worn off, and the eye became accustomed to the

224 HAWAII.

scene ; for on descending from the black ledge to the bottom of the
crater, he found the way quite familiar, and every toppling rock was
precisely in the same position. The bottom of the crater had been
entirely overflowed during our absence, which made it more even, and
the travelling more easy. *

The new lava was of four or five different varieties, as if each
overflow had been of a different kind. The variety that seemed to
predominate was quite thick and solid, and its crust had something of
a metallic or leaden lustre; the solidity of the layers seemed to be in
proportion to their thickness, and where this was five or six feet, the
central parts were compact and nearly destitute of vesicles.

On first entering on the lower lava, Mr. Colvocoressis and the
Doctor found it was so hot that they were fearful they could not
proceed ; but on advancing they found the heat did not increase, and
by avoiding the small lake, which was then overflowing, they had no
difficulty in reaching the larger one.

The surface was, as has been before remarked, about thirty feet
below the rim : they were to the north of the great lake, and from that
side of the cauldron the jets were thrown up. Walking up to the edge,
they found it was impossible to look at the glowing pool for more than
an instant at a time, on account of the heat and glare on the face and
eyes, that made it necessary to retreat almost immediately a few paces
backward. The more distant and darker part of the lake appeared
little less glowing. The noise, which has been represented by former
visitors as so terrific, and the absence of which I have before remarked,
was so trifling during this visit that it was not even regarded by them
in conversation. In this place Dr. Pickering says they remained some
ten minutes, but truly remarks, " It may have been more or less ; for,
to look on the tottering banks, seemingly so inadequate to hold a fluid
like this, to see it glowing with almost a white heat, just above the
surface, and the current directing itself towards them, and to reflect
upon the falling in that had occurred the evening before; added to
which, Judd's Lake might, by a change of its overflow to a contrary
direction, have cut off all retreat." It was indeed no place to take
note of time.

That variety of lava which is destitute of a vitreous crust, is found
on the black ledge alone, and none of it was observed in the lower pit.
Noises of all kinds were carefully attended to, and if not heard were
expected and referred to the crater itself: these sometimes proceed
from the rolling down of small pieces of lava on the black ledge,
making a pattering kind of noise, by no means pleasant.

HAWAII. 225

Dr. Pickering found a new route of descent into the crater, and one
that he deemed the most easily accomplished. This was on the south-
east side, near the sulphur-bank.

While in the crater on the black ledge at night, there is often a
deceptive appearance of a rising storm, from the darkness produced by
the overhanging cloud.

The old crevices have been found to be the only ones that give out
steam.

Though volcanic action is and has been so rife in this group of
islands, and so many appearances of it are to be seen on the surface,
both in the crater shape, and also that of lava crevices and jets, yet
there are but few that ought to claim the name of volcanoes. Those
that attract most attention are Mauna Loa, Kilauea, and Hualalai, as
being in present action, and the great crater of Haleakala. These
have already been described sufficiently in the foregoing pages.

Cone-craters, or hills of scoriaceous lava, are found throughout the
group, sometimes on the sides of the larger mountains, at others
isolated near the coast. Many of these are composed of fragments of
lava and sand. They are likewise to be seen in the terminal craters
of Mauna Loa and Haleakala, and do not appear to have ever dis-
charged any fluid lava, but seem to owe their shape to the successive
discharges of the loose materials. They are frequently in a lineal
direction, as will be observed by inspecting the map of Hawaii ; but
this will give little idea of their number. If reports be true relative to
Hualalai, hundreds may be seen from its summit, like excrescences on
its sides.

One of the most striking features of this island is the difference in the
formation of the two great mountains, whose height so nearly corre-
sponds. The form of Mauna Loa is unique, and has been increasing,
from the overflow of its terminal or pit-crater, and may perhaps be
entirely formed by the boiling over of this, for upon reflection this
would not seem impossible, but, indeed, quite probable ; and one is irre-
sistibly drawn to this conclusion on ascending it.

The extent of the lava stream flowing over the surface is very great,
and has been supplied by most copious springs ; the recent flow, for
instance, covered an area of twenty square miles with a thickness of
twelve feet on an average. The height of Mauna Kea has been in-
creasing from the effects of the cone-craters, of which there are now
nine on the surface of its flat top : thus while one gives out a molten
mass, the other sends forth scoria.

The pit-craters are also represented on the map. They have not
been the seat of volcanic action, yet from their extraordinary forma-
VOL. iv. 29

226 HAWAII.

tion, they are deserving of that name: many exhibit a flow oflava into
them. The mode of their formation seems very simple, and is just the
effect that one would suppose to arise from a sudden undermining ; but
that they should always form nearly a true circle, with perpendicular
walls, is remarkable, and cannot be easily accounted for.

As will have been seen, there have been copious eruptions from the
sides as well as from the terminal crater of Mauna Loa, and among
these may be reckoned that of Kilauea on its flank. It was proved
satisfactorily to my mind that the craters have no connexion whatever
with each other. An instance has been stated, where none apparently
existed between Judd's and the large lake in the crater of Kilauea,
although they were only two thousand feet apart, and it is equally
evident that Kilauea has none with the top of the mountain. The
eruption of 1832, from the terminal crater, and the one that has taken
place since our visit, is sufficient proof of this. All these flows tend
constantly to swell and increase the bulk of this mountain.

It has been remarked already, that a great deception in relation to
the height of these mountains occurs when they are first viewed from
the neighbouring sea. This is more particularly the case when the
weather is clear ; and the impression was hardly removed from my mind
even after the fatigue and labour encountered during our visit to Mauna
Loa. I still could not help wondering how they could possibly be as
high as I had found them by actual measurement.

In addition to the information regarding the Hawaiian Group, which
has fallen naturally under one or other of the preceding chapters,
several miscellaneous matters attracted our notice, which require to be
spoken of before we take our final leave of them.

Mr. Coan obliged me with the following account of the influx of the
sea at Hilo, on the 7th of November, 1837. A similar occurrence, it
will be recollected, took place at the island of Tutuila, in the Samoan
Group.

At about seven o'clock, p. M., the sea at Hilo was observed to retire
far below its usual low-water mark. In a few moments afterwards the
water returned in a gigantic wave, rushing to the shore with great
velocity, and breaking upon the beach with a noise like a peal of
thunder. All the low grounds in the neighbourhood of the beach were
instantly submerged, and a large number of houses were swept away.
So sudden and unexpected was the catastrophe, that many of the
inhabitants were engulfed in the flood, and compelled to struggle for
their lives. The sea remained upon the land about fifteen minutes,
when it retired beyond the line of low water, and after a short interval,
returned again, but with less violence. It afterwards continued to

HAWAII. 227

vibrate for a time, gradually decreasing at each oscillation, until it
attained its usual level.

The scene of distress which this phenomenon produced was great.
Hundreds of natives were at a meeting near the sea-shore, when the
wave rushed upon them, and left them struggling amidst the wreck of
their worldly effects. Some of them were carried to sea, while others
were dashed upon the shore, surrounded by the fragments of their
houses, which had been broken to pieces, together with the timber,
frames, calabashes, &c.

Cries of distress came from all sides, as well from those who were
struggling for life, as those who had come down to their relief. Parents
were rushing to and fro, looking for their children, husbands for their
wives, children for their parents, each inquiring for the other, with
waitings and hallooings. The whole, combined with the loud roar of
the sea, rendered the scene one of thrilling interest. Fortunately, an
English whaler, the Admiral Cockburn, of which James Lawrence
was commander, was lying in the bay at the time. He in a most
praiseworthy manner lowered his boats, and kept them cruising
about the bay, in search of the natives, many of whom were picked
up, wearied and exhausted, and by this timely aid their lives were
preserved. Not a canoe was left on the shore to assist in this
work.

The master of the Admiral Cockburn affirms that the water ran
past his ship at the rate of eight knots an hour, and that the soundings
were reduced from five to three and a half fathoms, which left a great
part of the bay dry.

At Oahu this phenomenon was likewise noted by Dr. Rooke, who
has given an account of it in the Hawaiian Spectator, Vol. L, Ja-
nuary, 1838. The time of its occurrence, as given by him, was six
o'clock, p. M., and the sea continued to vibrate until the next day at
noon. The time of commencement at Oahu preceded that at Hilo by
half an hour.

It appears, from the facts that have been stated relative to a like
phenomenon at Tutuila, that although the two were not coincident,
yet they were so closely allied in point of time, as to leave no doubt
of the same cause having produced both. It is certain that the phe-
nomenon took place first at the Samoan Group, and supposing that the
two watches by which it was noted were both correct, as the difference
of longitude is thirteen degrees, the elapsed time from the first wave at
Tutuila to that of the observations at Oahu, allowing for the difference
of longitude, was two hours, thirty minutes. The actual distance is two
thousand two hundred and fifty miles, on a course N. 20° E., which

228 HAWAII.

would prove that the wave must have proceeded from south to north
at the rate of nine hundred miles an hour. It would also go to prove
that the wave which was felt at Hilo, and on the north side of Maui,
was a returning wave, the difference of time having been an hour;
and what is remarkable, its extent seems to have been confined to a
very small belt, as it does not appear to have been felt at Kauai.
There was no recoil or return wave on the north side of Tutuila. Its
breadth, therefore, would seem not to have extended beyond one
hundred miles.

By comparing the velocity of its rise and fall, we find that at Tu-
tuila it exceeded that at Oahu. At the former place the rise and fall
was nine and a half feet in two minutes, while at the latter it was
only two feet a minute. It is remarkable that it should not have
reached above high-water mark on the south side of the Hawaiian
Group. The centre of the wave seems to have passed in a line over
Maui. The southern side of that island was more affected than that
of Oahu, but the wave on the north side seems to have been larger
and more destructive, for the small village of Kahului, in the district
of Wailuku, was entirely swept away.

The inhabitants of Kahului, on seeing the sea retiring, rushed to the
reefs with great joy to secure the fish, but before they could reach them
the sea-wave came rolling in, like an extended wall, to bury and destroy
all their habitations, or sweep them away. Only two lives, however,
were lost there, while at Hilo there were twelve persons missing. The
rise at Hilo, according to a mark on the boat-house, was found to be
eleven feet above ordinary high- water mark.

The weather was somewhat similar, and was at both places rather
lowering.*

I afterwards made inquiries on the coast of California whether this
rise and fall of the sea had been observed there, but did not succeed in
obtaining any information.

There was a similar phenomenon in the year 1819 ; but, from all
accounts, it appears to have been less violent.

Earthquakes are quite common on Hawaii: they appear to be, for
the most part, local ; thus, they are occasionally felt at Maui, but I
heard of none at Oahu or Kauai.

The following are those observed at Hilo since July 1832, which
the Rev. Mr. Lyman furnished me from his memorandum, viz. :

* On comparing the times of this great rush of waters at the two points, viz. : the Samoan
Islands and this group, we find them almost coincident with the earthquake of Chili, that
happened on the 7th of November, 1837 ; how far they are to be imputed to it, is a subject
of interesting inquiry that it is not in my power to pursue in this place.

HAWAII.

229

June, 1833. Two slight shocks.

October 3d, " Shocks in the night; one slight.

" 13th, " At 3 P. M. a smart shock, motion up and down.

February 19th, 1834. At C P. M. a shock which shook down stone walls, stopped

clocks, upset bottles, and threw milk out of pans but half-full.
Undulating motion north and south.

" " " At 9 P. M. another, but a slight shock.

May 14th, " Between 2 and 3 p. M. a severe shock.

August 3d, " Between 3 and 4 A. M. a severe shock.

March 23d, 1835. At 9 A. M. a slight shock.

" 2Gth, " At twenty-five minutes past 6 A. M. three shocks in quick

succession.

July 21st, " Three shocks during the day.

September 6th, " Between 2 and 3 A. M. a slight shock.

In the year 1836. There were none felt.

June 20th, 1837. At forty minutes past 6 P. M. two shocks.

January 4th, 1838. One severe shock.

" 29th, " At 10 P. M., there were three shocks in quick succession

two heavy, the third light

July 9th, " A slight shock in the morning.

October 16th, " Ajar, accompanied with a noise, resembling the discharge

of a cannon.

Nov. 5th, " One shock in the morning, and two in the afternoon.

" 6th, One shock in the morning.

" 7th, " A smart shock at midnight, one at 3 A. M., and another at

four.

" 8th to 13th, " Slight shocks were constantly occurring, and on several of
these days it was thought the ground was never free from
motion.

December 4th, " A slight shock, but decided and distinct

« 9th, " A slight shock.

" 10th, " A slight shock at 4 A. M.

" 12th, " A slight shock.

" At 1 P. M., a severe shock, attended with all the phenomena
of that of February 1834. The motion of the earth was
such as to render it difficult to walk or stand : the motion
was up and down.

April 7th, 1839. At midday a smart shock.

February 1st, 1840. Half-past 1 p. M. a smart shock.

May 5th, " At 4 p. M. a slight shock.

September 5th, " At 10 p. M. a slight shock.

October 14th, " At 9 p. M. a slight shock.

December 18th, " At 5 A. M. two severe shocks.
February 18th, 1841. A slight shock.
March 18th, " Severe; felt at Maui.

Making in all fifty shocks in eight years.

The usual motion or jar is like that produced by the firing of distant
artillery, or the falling of a heavy body on the ground ; to this is added
a tremulous motion when the earthquake is slight.

230 HAWAII.

On the 3d of March the instruments were all embarked, and the
observatory duties broken up.

On the 4th of March, at 9 p. M., an attempt was made to get under
way, but the land-breeze failed. We made another attempt the next
morning, but were again obliged to anchor near the end of the reef.
I mention these circumstances, in order to show the difficulties that
sometimes occur in getting to sea from this port. This is in conse-
quence of the land-breeze frequently failing near the shore, so that a
vessel is sometimes becalmed for more than half a day between the
two winds. Fortunately, there is little or no current here, and, there-
fore, no danger to be apprehended, although it is a disagreeable situa-
tion to be placed in.

As respects the bay of Hilo, I cannot but view it as a safe anchor-
age. We were detained there about three months, and never had a
gale strong enough to ride to our anchors, though these were the
winter months, December, January, and February. At times, how-
ever, there was a considerable swell rolling in, so as to make it
uncomfortable on board ship. The weather we met with was not so
rainy as I had been led to expect from the accounts given me, and
during the month of February we had some of the most delightful
weather I ever experienced.

Provisions can be obtained, though not in abundance, and the
markets are not well supplied. The prices are the same as those at
Honolulu, although the demand is not so great. For wild cattle we
were asked thirty dollars. Kanuha, the chief, has the character of
wishing to impose upon strangers : I must, however, do him the justice
to say, that this imputation seems undeserved. Like all the rest of the
natives, he will ask double ; but it is only requisite to bargain for the
articles required, and for services beforehand, and to insist on them
complying strictly with their engagement ; when this is done, no diffi-
culty will be experienced.

The best landing is at Waiakea, which gives its name to the bay,
although it has been called Hilo and Byron's Bay. The latter name
was conferred on it, in compliment to Lord Byron, by Kaahumanu ;
but the native appellation cannot be set aside, and the bay is now
scarcely known among the natives when called Byron's.

Excellent water is to be had in abundance, and with great ease,
within the mouth of the Wailuku river ; but it requires some care in
passing in and out the river when the surf is high.

Although I have spoken of the landing on the eastern side of this
bay as being the best, yet it is feasible to land on the beach in proper

HAWAII. 231

boats. Wood is also to be had here, and at a much less price than at
Oahu. There is another inducement, which makes it a desirable
place for vessels to recruit at — there are no grog-shops as yet.

The rise of the tide is three feet — high water full and change at
1 P. M.

The morning previous to our sailing, I learned much to my surprise
that the Rev. Mr. Coan had received many complaints from the natives,
of the destruction of the sugar-cane by my crew. Although I was
well convinced that the complaints were unfounded, as strict orders
had been given that no plantation should be touched, I sent Mr. Wal-
dron on shore to inquire into it, and to settle, any demands. It turned
out as I had expected, that little or no damage had been done, and
this fact was evident enough. We were compelled, however, to pay
ten dollars, which I cannot but view as a piece of extortion. How
far the reverend missionary was aware of its being so, I will not pre-
tend to say ; but a little inquiry would have satisfied him that not
one-tenth part of the value had been touched, if any. I do not mention
this in any feeling of hostility towards the missionary : I would, how-
ever, recommend that when complaints are made, they should at once
be sent to head-quarters, and not allowed to be heard through any other
channel.

After this affair was arranged, I had the gratification to receive a
complimentary notice from Mr. Coan, on the behaviour and exemplary
conduct of my crew during the whole time the ship was at Hilo.

EDIBLE FERN.

CHAPTER VII.

CONTENTS.

MESSRS. PICKERING, DRAYTON, AND BRACKENRIDGE SAIL FOR MAUI — DEPARTURE
OF THE V1NCENNES FROM HILO — HER ARRIVAL AT LAHAINA — DESCRIPTION OF
MAUI— VISIT TO THE KING— KING'S PALACE-TOWN OF LAHAINA— PRIVATE APART-
MENTS OF THE KING — HIS WIFE— EXCURSION TO THE SEMINARY OF WAILUKU—
WEST MAUI— BUILDINGS OF THE SEMINARY-HABITS AND DRESS OF THE SCHOLARS
—COURTSHIP BY LETTER — MERITS AND DEFECTS OF THE SEMINARY— MR. BAILY'S
RESIDENCE — SAND-HILLS — MOUND OF HUMAN BONES— RETURN TO LAHAINA— ONE
OF OUR BOATS LOST — ISLAND OF KAHOOLAWE — SEMINARY OF LAHAINALUNA —
DISADVANTAGES OF ITS POSITION— ITS ORIGINAL SYSTEM-CHANGES IN THE SYSTEM
— ITS PROBABLE FAILURE— APPEARANCE OF THE SCHOLARS— IMPROVEMENTS PRO-
POSED IN IT — SURVEY OF THE COASTS OF LAHAINA — ITS POPULATION— CHURCH —
DISTRICT OF WAILUKU — DISTRICT OF KULA — KING'S ENCOURAGEMENT OF THE
CULTURE OF SUGAR— PERSEVERANCE OF THE NATIVES— LABOURS OF THE MISSION-
ARIES—POPULATION OF WAILUKU — TOUR OF MESSRS. PICKERING, DRAYTON, AND
BRACKENRIDGE — NORTH COAST OF MAUI — MOUNT HALEAKALA — MR. LANE AND
MINOR'S PLANTATION— CAVE-CRATER OF HALEAKALA— WAILUKU PASS— INFLUENCE
OF BOOKS ON THE NATIVES— NATIVE CHARACTER— REGENT KEKAULUOHI— LIEUTE-
NANT BUDD DESPATCHED ON A SURVEY — WE TAKE LEAVE OF MAUI — LANAI-
ICHTHYOLOGY — SURF AND TIDES — MOLOKAI — ARRIVAL OF THE VINCENNES AT
HONOLULU— RETURN OF THE PORPOISE.
U2

(233)

CHAPTER VII.

MAUL
1841.

BY the 15th of February I found that my long detention at Hilo
would place it out of my power to visit the Marquesas Islands, as I
had intended. I therefore determined, before returning to Oahu,
which I intended should be by the 1st of April, to pass a short time
at Maui ; and as we had exhausted the field of research on Hawaii, I
gave orders to Messrs. Pickering, Drayton, and Brackenridge, to take
passage thither in a small vessel, in order that they might have a
longer time to explore that island. Dr. Judd took passage in the same
vessel, to return to Oahu. It was with much regret that I parted with
him, and I feel it my duty here to acknowledge the obligations I am
under to him, for the service he performed on this tour of duty. I
should have experienced great trouble and difficulty with the natives,
had it not been for his admirable management. He succeeded in
settling with all of them without any difficulty, when it was once
understood that no sort of imposition would be allowed.

On the 5th of March, we succeeded in getting to sea, and at eight
o'clock discharged John Ely, the pilot, whom we had found of great
use as a guide to the volcano, &c. He possessed a good deal of
knowledge respecting the native character, acquired during a sojourn
of twenty years among them, and from his conversation he did not
appear to entertain much friendship or respect for them.

The longitude of Waiakea Bay was found to be 155° 03' 00" W.,
latitude 19° 43' 51" N.

At 1 p. M. the sea-breeze reached us, and soon wafted us beyond the
region of calms. We then steered to the westward to pass through
the channel between Hawaii and Maui, which is thirty miles wide.

(235)

236 M A U I.

The afternoon was fine, and the snowy peak of Mauna Kea was
quite distinct: by running a base line with the patent log, and obtaining
the requisite angles, we made its height thirteen thousand six hundred
and fifty-six feet.

At midnight, being nearly up with Kahoolawe, we hove-to, to await
daylight, as I wished to look for a shoal that was supposed to exist off
its southern end. I passed within two and a half miles of that point,
and had nothing less than seven and a quarter fathoms water. By
half-past nine we had entirely lost the trades, owing to the high land,
and, after being becalmed for an hour, we took a light sea-breeze from
the southwest, which slowly brought us to an anchorage in Lahaina
Roads, abreast of the king's palace.

The island of Maui is divided into two oval-shaped peninsulas,
connected by a low isthmus, only a few feet higher than the beach.
Although on a first view the peninsulas resemble each other, on closer
examination they are found to be very different. East Maui is the
largest of the two, and rises in one unbroken mountain ten thousand
feet in elevation, which falls almost perpendicularly towards the sea.
West Maui has many sharp peaks and ridges, which are divided by
deep valleys, and which in descending towards the sea open out and
form sloping plains on the north and south sides of considerable extent.
The highest peak of West Maui was found, by triangulation, to be
six thousand one hundred and thirty feet.

An officer was at once despatched to wait upon the king, who sig-
nified his desire to see me in the afternoon. I accordingly had the
honour of waiting on him, and was received with great warmth and
kindness. I paid him a long visit, in which the conversation turned
principally on the business of his islands.

On my way back after leaving the king's house, I was very much
amused with the sight of a number of little children, that could but
barely creep, crawling into the deep water of the enclosed spaces
along the path, and paddling about with as much confidence as if it
was their native element, and seemingly more at home than on the
land. They reminded me of ducklings. No regard seemed to be
paid to them by the older ones or their parents ; and it was a matter
of surprise to them that I should think it any thing extraordinary.
Although these young children could not exactly swim, yet by the
movements of their arms and legs they contrived to make progress and
keep their heads well above water. I returned on board before sunse',
where I found a handsome present of fish, that had just been sent off
by the king.

The most remarkable building to be seen as the bay of Lahaina is

MAUL 237

approached, is the seminary of Lahainaluna situated on the side of
the mountain that rises behind Lahaina.

The king's palace is built of coral rock, and is only half finished : it
already seems to be in a somewhat dilapidated state, and exhibits
poverty rather than regal magnificence. I could not but feel that too
little attention had been given to his household by those who have had
the management of his affairs. I regretted to see that any change,
except for the better, had been effected in the native style of accom-
modation. His present residence is neither calculated to maintain the
respect of his subjects, nor to enhance his importance in the eyes of
foreigners. I am well aware that improvements are going on near to
and connected with the situation his house occupies, but I believe that
these could all have been long since finished, had proper exertions
been made.

The town of Lahaina is built along the beach for a distance of three
quarters of a mile : it is principally composed of grass-houses, situated
as near the beach as possible : it has one principal street, with a few
others running at right angles. After the king's palace, the fort is
the most conspicuous object : its form is quadrangular, the longest
side facing the sea: it is of little account, however, as a defence,
serving chiefly to confine unruly subjects and sailors in. The area
within is about one acre, and the walls are twenty feet high. By the
observations which I made here, it is situated in longitude 156° 41' 00"
W., latitude 20° 51' 50" N.

There are storehouses, which are used for the reception of the
king's revenue, that consists of large heaps of tapas. At a short
distance from the landing are situated the cottages of the Rev. Mr.
Richards and Dr. Baldwin, who act as missionaries here. Mr. Richards,
as has been before remarked, is connected with the government.

I had the pleasure of receiving his majesty on board, with suitable
honours, accompanied by his suite. They made a very respectable
appearance ; and although what I had already seen of the king had
greatly prepossessed me in his favour, a visit which I paid him before
my departure tended greatly to increase the interest I felt for his wel-
fare. Instead of being received in the dilapidated and half-finished
palace, I was ushered over a small causeway to a short distance
behind it, into his private apartments, and introduced to his wife, who
had been quite unwell. She is not acknowledged as queen. She is
the daughter of an inferior chief on the island of Hawaii, and the pret-
tiest woman on the island. The king, it is believed, married her from
affection, and against the wishes of his chiefs, after they had prohibited
his marriage with his sister Nahienaena, as has already been mentioned.

238 MAUL

In order to prevent any dispute in the succession to the throne, it was
formerly deemed necessary that the king should take all the women
of the highest rank as his wives, and all the children born of them
were declared and considered as his heirs.

The present king is said to be the natural son of Kamehameha I.,
and became, from political causes, heir to the throne.

After crossing the causeway we reached a small island : on this was
a grass-house of moderate dimensions, surrounded by hibiscus trees,
which grow quite low, and made a bower almost impervious to the
sun's rays. At the entrance of the house I was met by his majesty,
dressed in a roundabout of blue cloth, and white pantaloons. He led
the way into the bower, in the centre of which his wife was lying in
a clean white hammock, suspended between the trees. Every thing
about her was pleasant-looking, betokening care and attention to her
comfort, and a degree of refinement I little expected to see. Although
unwell, she showed many marks of beauty, and I was much struck
with her appearance.

The king told me these were their private apartments, where they
could remain undisturbed and free from intrusion. They passed most
of their time together, and he pointed out a small hut of ti-leaves that
he had constructed for her, in which she had been lying on new-
mown grass. The king pointed out the improvements he had in
contemplation, but complained that he had not money to carry them
on. Although his income is very considerable, in tapas and native
produce, and would have constituted great wealth in former times,
yet, from the depreciation in the value of these articles, it is now of
little value. He has so many hangers-on, that it takes a large amount
to supply, maintain, and clothe them, even in the ordinary garments
of the island. These circumstances leave the king quite as poor as
any of his subjects.

The little domestic scene I had witnessed gave me great pleasure,
the more so from being quite unexpected ; and I found afterwards
that very few are ever admitted to this sanctum sanctorum. I take
pleasure in mentioning it, as I had not before given his majesty credit
for the domestic virtues, which I am now satisfied he possesses to a
great degree, both from the tenor of his conversation and the pleasing
picture he exhibited in the last interview I had with him.

His wife is much fairer than the natives usually, and she has not
so coarse and disproportionate a figure as seems characteristic of the
females of distinction in these islands. Her features, however, were
decidedly of the native character. The tone of voice was pleasing and
ladylike.

MAUL 239

Wishing to inspect the female seminary of Wailuku, which I had
heard much spoken of, I went over to it, in company with Mr. Drayton.
One of the chiefs was obliging enough to furnish me with a horse for
the occasion. We rode along the south shore of West Maui, as it is
here termed. This portion of West Maui is rendered susceptible of
cultivation by means of irrigation, supplied by numerous small brooks,
running from the mountains. A very small portion, however, is thus
cultivated ; but I should think it could be made to yield large crops of
taro and sugar-cane, with very little care.

The leeward side of West Maui is similar in climate to Oahu, and,
as was to be expected, the plants were the same.

Most of the habitations we passed were occupied by fishermen.
Some large heaps of coral taken from the reef were observed along the
shore, which were to be transported to Lahaina, in order to be burnt
for lime.

As we approached the east end of West Maui, the mountains kept
increasing on the plain, until they formed an abrupt precipice several
hundred feet in height at the sea. There the way led up a zigzag road,
if road it could be called, which it is difficult for man or horse to pass
over. A portion of this path, two or three miles in length, had been
worked, and is yet in good repair ; but that on the south side has been
suffered to fall entirely into ruin, and is the most difficult part to over-
come.

The rock of the cliff was basaltic, containing grains of chrysolite,
which were also observed in the sand in the beds of the dry streams.
No conglomerate was seen.

The greatest discomfort we experienced in this excursion arose from
the violence of the gusts that passed by us : the power of the wind was
almost, violent enough to unhorse us, as it burst in intermitting gusts
through the ravines every few minutes. After passing this rough
road, we reached the sandy alluvial neck or isthmus, the lowest part
of which is only seven feet above the sea. Here the sand is constantly
shifting, being thrown up into " dunes," and again dissipated by the
wind. On reaching the neck, we turned to the west, and rode seven
miles before we reached Wailuku, over a plain nearly uninhabited, and
hardly susceptible of cultivation, until within a mile of Wailuku.

The seminary of Wailuku consists of an extensive range of coral
and adobe buildings, beautifully situated on an inclined plane, with high
and massive precipices behind, in a flourishing village, which shows
more of systematic improvement and organized exertion than any place
I have met with in the Hawaiian Islands. The fields, also, are better
fenced, and the crops more diligently attended to. We were kindly

240 M A U I.

received by the Rev. Mr. Greene, his lady, and Miss Ogden, who have
the charge of the establishment, which consists of eighty scholars,
between the ages of twelve and eighteen years. Every opportunity
was afforded me of inspecting the establishment, and while I found
much to commend, there were many things I could have desired to see
changed.

In the first place, I was much struck with the appearance of a want
of cleanliness in the dresses of the scholars, contrasting so unfavour-
ably with the neatness and cleanliness of fhe rest of the establishment.
Neither can it be expected that they should imbibe cleanly habits, or be
able to preserve them, when they are allowed to wear their clothes
unchanged from the beginning to the end of the week. The dress
consists of the usual loose gown adopted in the islands, and in which
these children are allowed to sleep. On Saturday they wash, and on
Sunday make their appearance in a white cotton smock, shawl, and
bonnet, the latter of their own manufacture. Their dormitory is a long
adobe building, with walls two feet thick, divided into compartments
twelve feet by ten, each of which acommodates three scholars. More
than half of this space is occupied by their bed, which is made of mats
laid on a bank of ti-leaves, or sugar-cane, about two feet thick, with a
small pillow of about eight inches square. What clothes they had
were hung up in the corners, and a scanty supply they appeared to be.
Rolls of tapa were laid on the mats, which serve to cover them at
night. The only ventilation was through a small window and the top
part of the partition-wall, which was left open. I passed into several
of these small rooms, all of which had a musty smell, AS of decayed
or mouldy vegetable matter. It was no longer a subject of surprise to
me that the establishment had obtained the name of being unhealthy,
or that several of the girls had died.*

While Mr. Greene gives the scholars instruction in the various
departments of education, Miss Ogden teaches them all kinds of useful
employments, such as spinning, weaving, knitting, sewing, quilting,
millinery, &c. She has, also, the superintendence of their eating
apartment, and no place could be better arranged than this part of the
establishment: every thing has a useful purpose, and one readily sees
the practical operation of all that is doing. I had the pleasure of
seeing the scholars at their rneals, where all was regulated and went
according to rule: those who were appointed to "wash up" kept their
places while the rest left the table. They made a better appearance

* I have since understood that this defect has been remedied, the scholars having been
provided with bedsteads and bedding, and that no cases of sickness have since occurred.

MAUL 241

at their morning meal than they had done on the day of our arrival,
wearing now neat white capes ; but I still saw the same frocks. I do
not, however, wish to give the idea that they are not in reality clean:
they are so beyond a doubt, as I understood they bathed almost every
day; but they did not look tidy. Miss Ogden took her place at a
small table, whence she was enabled to overlook the whole. Their
food is that of the country, consisting principally of poe and fish, and
they are occasionally indulged with molasses.

Baths and walking-grounds are prepared for them, where they can
take exercise. The avowed object of this establishment is to educate
the daughters of Hawaii as wives for the young men who are educated
at Lahainaluna. They are fed and clothed by the Missionary Society,
and it is proposed that they shall remain at the establishment until they
be married.

One courtship has already taken place by letters; and I was informed
these were the first love-letters that had ever been written in this group.
I was extremely desirous of obtaining the originals or copies, but was
not successful. The correspondence appears to have been carried on
under the eye of the missionaries, and the expressions they contained
were very common-place.

This whole establishment does great credit to those who are engaged
in rearing it up, on account of the method and perseverance with
which it is carried on. It is extremely gratifying to see efforts of
this kind made, but I cannot help doubting the policy of not allowing
any of the burden of it fall upon the natives themselves (the parents).
The only argument advanced in jusiification of this course, was the
rather unsatisfactory one, that these people cannot understand and
appreciate sufficiently the advantages, to be persuaded to contribute to
the education of their children. As far as my own observations went,
I believe this to be an error. As long as the children are educated
and maintained gratis, the natives will never make any exertions to
furnish the means. Some of the natives said to me, on my making
inquiry why their children were not at the seminary, that they could
not get them there, for all those admitted were selected by the mission-
aries, and there are no other means of tuition ; they also added, that
they would be willing to contribute a few dollars for the education of
their children, if allowed.

The greatest objection to the system of this school, in my opinion, is
that the pupils are not taken at an earlier age, and before their habits
are in any way formed, and that it is attempted to educate them ex-
clusively for civilized life as it now is. Taken at too advanced an
age, they have scarcely an opportunity of forgetting the life of ease

VOL. iv. v 31

242 MAUL

they led while in their savage state ; and thus their early impressions
remaining still uneradicated, they return almost as soon as they leave
the school to their savage state, finding it more easy than to keep up
their partially civilized habits; whereas, if they were taken very
young, and put under a course of discipline that would make their
improvement permanent, and were, besides, taught the way of main-
taining themselves as they now are, by useful employment, they would
not be so likely to relapse into their former habits, or adopt those of
their parents. I have little doubt, that such a course would be a great
means of reforming many of their parents, as far as they are sus-
ceptible of reformation ; for the relation between parents and children
is altogether different with them from what it is among us, parents
being invariably under the control of the children, after the latter have
grown up

The plan of taking the children, as is done, from the dregs of the
natives, is, I think, another mistake. The higher orders in a monar-
chical system of government ought to be more carefully instructed than
the others. This principle is admitted by the establishment of the
chiefs' school at Honolulu, and I see no reason why it should not
equally apply to the children of the petty chiefs, or second class. I am,
indeed, satisfied that greater advantages would be derived from such
a course, and the school would, in this way, become more popular.
Parents of this rank would, also, be enabled to assist in its mainte-
nance, and the lower orders, as elsewhere, would imitate the higher.

I must do full justice to the good fare and kind attentions of Mrs.
Greene ; and from the appearance of the supper-table, I could readily
have believed myself in New England instead of the Hawaiian Islands.

Early the next morning, Mr. Drayton and myself went to breakfast
with Mr. Baily and his wife. He is the assistant missionary at this
station, and superintends the school for boys. It being Saturday, and
a holiday, we had not the pleasure of seeing the scholars.

Mr. Baily had provided bountifully for us, and there was ample
evidence here that this was a land of plenty, to all those who exercised
ordinary industry.

After breakfast, Mr. Greene was obliging enough to accompany us
to see the sugar-mills and taro-plantations, in the valley of the Wailuku.
The sugar-manufactory is an experiment of the king, and is now under
the superintendence of a Chinese. By some awkward mistake in
making the agreement, his majesty's interests were entirely lost si^ht
of, and it is said that he will lose money, although his agents have a
prospect of considerable gain. The iron-work of the mill was imported
from the United States, and is turned by water-power. The water

M A U I. 243

wheel is badly constructed : it is a breast-wheel, with great loss of
power.

There appears but little economy about the establishment : as an
instance of this, instead of drying and preparing the cane for fuel, they
use wood altogether, which is very scarce, and costs much to transport
it. The sugar appears to be of good quality, and with proper atten-
tion, the manufacture could no doubt be made profitable. I understood
from the Chinese who had charge, that the sugar could be sold at four
cents per pound, and that with a proper economy as to fuel, might be
reduced to half that sum.

Both the king and chiefs have a desire to encourage the arts and
agriculture. Unfortunately, however, after they have incurred expenses,
they are obliged to give the sole direction into the hands of those who
have nothing but their own interests in view. The consequence is, that
in all these undertakings the king and chiefs have found themselves
deceived, by listening to foreigners by whom they have been defrauded.

We now rode down the valley among the taro-patches, and over to
the Sand-hills. In passing over them we saw some remarkable con-
cretions, resembling large tunnels or broken pipes, which were quite
hard, and resembled solid rock interspersed with amorphous sandstone.
Mr. Greene, who was with us, could give me no information respecting
their formation. Dr. Pickering met with these also, and considers
them as mineral concretions, although they appeared to him to resem-
ble those formed by annelidse, or like beds of sabellffi.

On the isthmus, the sand was drifting like snow, and afforded a good
illustration of the rapidity with which it changes its place by the effects
of the winds.

In the centre of the Sand-hills, we stopped on a mound of human
bones, — a perfect Golgotha. There appears to be no tradition respect-
ing this accumulation of mortal relics. By some it is supposed to have
been a burying-place after a battle, for the place where they were
found was known to be a battle-ground. Bloody contests, indeed, must
have taken place here, if we are to judge from the number of skeletons
which are exposed. Some of these are in a state of perfect preserva-
tion, and I regretted not being able to transport one to the ship.

Near this place we saw several boys anxiously watching some
object, and on getting near them, found they were employed in catch-
ing birds. This was done by baiting small sticks, to which a string was
tied, and the other end of the string fastened to a small stone : the bird
swallows the stick along with the bait, and in attempting to fly off, it
pierces his throat, and he is thus secured.

After riding around these plains we returned to Wailuku, where we

244 M A U I.

partook of a sumptuous lunch, and parted under a feeling of obligation
for the kind attentions we had received, and the tokens of remembrance
from the scholars. We reached Lahaina before dark, after a fatiguing
ride.

On our way I heard a rumour that one of the boats had been lost,
which made rne anxious to get on board as soon as possible. I had been
flattering myself that from dangers of this kind we were, at least for
the present, exempt ; but the report proved too true. Previous to leaving
Lahaina, I had despatched Lieutenant Budd, with Passed Midshipman
May, in charge of two boats, and it was to one of these that the acci-
dent occurred. Lieutenant Budd gave the following account of it.

At ten o'clock, on the 9th of March, they left the ship, when it was
blowing a moderate breeze, and steered for the south point of Kahoo-
lawe. After they had proceeded some distance on their way, it fell
calm for a short time, and then the trade-wind set in strong from the
northward and eastward, and soon increased to a stiff gale, the sea
rising to a dangerous height for the boats. Just after doubling the point
of Kahoolawe, Passed Midshipman May, in the Leopard, hailed Lieu-
tenant Budd, to report that his boat was sinking ; and four of the men
were perceived to be baling. Lieutenant Budd pulled alongside, and
seeing the boat was settling, ordered the anchor to be dropped. Most
of the crew continued to bale with their hats, whilst the rest passed out
the most important articles. A portion of the Leopard's crew, who
could not swim, were now ordered to get into the Greyhound ; Lieu-
tenant Budd intending to land them and return for those on the wreck.
The men who were thus left said that the boat was drifting to sea, and
wished to be taken off; but this would have endangered the lives of all.
Passed Midshipman May, perceiving their unwillingness to remain,
jumped overboard and joined them : his example encouraged them to
do their best. Lieutenant Budd succeeded in as short a time as possible
in landing the men and articles from his boat, and then returned. He
found the boat sinking fast, and the officer and men supporting them-
selves with the oars. The boat \vas now turning over and over as
every wave struck her. Mr. May and the rest of the men were tali en
on board, and they then returned to the shore, all much exhausted.
Lieutenant Budd, seeing that the side of the boat had been stove in by
a heavy sea, and the impossibility of saving or being able to repair the
boat, left her to her fate, and took such measures as he found necessary
for the comfort of his men. Lieutenant Budd deserves much credit
for his presence of mind in preserving the lives of the men entrusted to
him, as well as protecting them afterwards from unnecessary exposure.

Kahoolawe, the island they were now on, lies to the west of the

MAUL 245

south end of Maui, and is fourteen miles long by five miles wide. It
is uninhabited, except by a few poor fishermen, and is used as a place
of exile : at this time, there was one state prisoner confined on it.

Lieutenant Budd concluded next morning to set out in search of
the town which he had heard one of his boat's crew, a Kanaka, say
that he knew of. After wandering over the rugged face of this barren
island for twenty miles, he discovered, to his great joy, from the top of
a ridge, a cluster of huts near the water, which they soon after reached.
They proved to be inhabited by Kenemoneha, the exile above spoken
of, who for the crime of forgery had been condemned to spend five
years in exile upon this island. This was effected in a singular
manner, and the punishment of the offender will serve to show the
mode in which the laws are carried into execution.

The chief, Kenemoneha, treated Lieutenant Budd with great kind-
ness, supplied him with dry clothing, and gave him some of his scanty
fare. The village is a collection of eight huts, and an unfinished adobe
church. The chief has three large canoes for his use.

In passing over the island, the walking had been found very tedious ;
for they sunk ankle-deep at each step. The whole south part is covered
with a light soil, composed of decomposed lava; and is destitute of
vegetation, except a few stunted shrubs.

On the northern side of the island, there is a better soil, of a reddish
colour, which is in places susceptible of cultivation. Many tracks of
wild hogs were seen, but only one of the animals was met with.

The wife of Kenemoneha resides at Lahaina. She was a great
favourite of the king, who, notwithstanding, was determined to let the
law take its course, being well satisfied of her husband's guilt.

The only article produced on the island is the sweet-potato, and
but a small quantity of these. All the inhabitants are convicts, and
receive their food from Maui : their number at present is about fifteen.

Besides this little cluster of convicts' huts, there are one or two
houses on the north end, inhabited by old women. Some of the con-
victs are allowed to visit the other islands, but not to remain.

On hearing of the accident, Lieutenant Carr at once despatched
provisions for the party ; which reached them the next day, and
proved a seasonable supply. After much fatigue, Lieutenant Budd
returned to the ship on the 15th.

I visited, in company with some of the officers, the seminary of
Lahainaluna, which is, as I have before said, situated on the hill behind
the town, and about two miles distant from it. The road thither is
partly made by the pupils of the seminary. We found the students at
work along this road, making stone walls. Many of them were large

V2

246 M A U I.

boys or young men. Their mode of working was not systematic, and
every one appeared to be doing what he thought best : they did not
appear to be identified with their work, but seemed more like a rabble.
We were received by the Rev. Mr. Andrews, who was kind enough
to show us the whole establishment.

On our approach, we noticed an air of neglect, and particularly in
the out-buildings. The garden also was in bad order ; indeed, nothing
succeeds well in it, because its situation is too high for irrigation,
which in this climate is absolutely necessary. The soil is composed
of a red clay, which in dry weather forms a fine dust, covering
every thing, and which the daily winds continually raise into clouds.
These circumstances present an obstacle to one of the great objects
of the institution, while the scarcity of water prevents the inculcation
of habits of personal cleanliness, of which the natives stand in great
need.

The object of the institution is, to forward mental improvement and
a knowledge of the useful arts, as well as to prepare suitable teachers
for the native schools.

This -school was established in 1831 on the principal of self-support,
and only those who could maintain themselves, were admitted. These
were principally adults, and mostly married persons : they even built
their own houses, which were of adobes, covered with thatch. The
Rev. Mr. Andrews was the first who undertook the charge; and the
only expense to the mission was the books, &c., together with the
salary of the superintendent. This plan continued to be acted upon
for three years, during which time the number of scholars had risen
to ninety. In 1834, the mission decided to increase the school, and
to put up buildings at their own expense. The Rev. Messrs. Clark
and Dibble were appointed to it as instructors of mathematics and
philosophy ; they were also to be employed in translating and prepar-
ing native books, of which none existed at the time, and which were
to be printed at the Mission Press.

In 1836, the character of the school was entirely changed, and the
self-supporting system laid aside, as was also the reception of adult
scholars, none now being admitted over twenty years of age.

In 1837, the present edifice, consisting of a centre building, forty-
four feet square, and two wings, fifty by twenty-six feet, were erected,
at considerable expense, I was informed, (twelve thousand dollars,)
and a class of thirty-six boys admitted, from the various district
schools on the island, as boarding scholars. These are lodged in a
number of small thatched huts, ten feet square. There are likewise
dwellings for the teachers. It was endowed by the king and chiefs

MAUL 247

with a grant of five hundred acres of land ; only fifty of which, how-
ever, were capable of being made productive, and but thirty have been
cultivated.

Since 1836, when, as has been seen, the system was changed, its
usefulness has in a great measure ceased, for the simple reason that
the institution in its present form is not required. I look upon the
plan as wholly impracticable, and unsuitable to the wants of the
natives. In the form it was first established, Mr. Andrews was ex-
tremely well adapted to its superintendence ; but when it was taken
under the fostering care of the Board, few of whom are practical men,
they remodelled it, still keeping it under the superintendence of one
who, though admirably adapted for its original plan of instruction, was
unfitted for the cares of its future operations.

The professors who are associated with Mr. Andrews, are no doubt
well qualified for their situations as teachers and translators, but
naturally look more to mental improvement than to practical illustra-
tion. The latter indeed appears to have been almost wholly abandoned,
and instead of carpentry, smithery, and agriculture, being pursued, the
two former have been entirely abandoned, and in order to induce the
scholars to the latter, they give them a price for their work, which
goes to the clothing of the individual, so that in reality this labour is
at a higher price than would be paid for it in the United States.

We were shown some of the engravings done by the scholars, but
these were of a very rude and inferior description, and at the price
paid for the work, cost more than if beautifully done by the best
artists in the United States. No one in the establishment knows any-
thing about engraving, and therefore it seems highly injudicious to
have attempted to teach it.

In all the departments of this establishment I saw nothing but ill-
directed means, and a waste of funds that might have been avoided
by proper forecast, and a full examination of the subject by practical
men. The school has passed its meridian, and is now fast going to
decay, a fact which must strike every one on a casual visit. The
discipline of the scholars is loose and irregular ; they are their own
rulers, and make their own laws : in this respect it may be called a
republican school. The scholars act by committees, and without the
knowledge or consent of their teachers, in every thing that concerns
themselves and their apartments. As may be supposed, they are left
to settle their own disputes, and little discipline of any kind exists.

I had an opportunity of seeing one of the classes reciting to the Rev.
Mr. Dibble. We happened accidentally to pass through the large hall
or chapel, where this exercise was going on. The reverend gentle-

248 M A U I.

man was mounted on a platform, and the scholars oddly arranged on
the ends of each of the long benches. A more ragged, dirty-looking
set of fellows I have rarely laid my eyes upon in the shape of scholars,
or as they are now termed, students of the university. Most of them
were dressed in trousers and shirts, the latter partly within and partly
without their waistbands. They had no shoes or handkerchiefs, and
and as the light colour of their clothes showed spots of grease distinctly,
they appeared dirty enough. The exercises were continued, but as
they were in the Hawaiian language, it was impossible to judge of
their explanations of the questions put to them : they seemed, however,
to satisfy the tutor.

I then went to the lower rooms and was shown the process of
teaching; among other branches in which they were instructed was
music. We next visited the dormitories, which, as I have stated
above, were small separate grass-huts. The scholars sleep as they
choose, either within or without the hut, and always in their clothes,
which I had surmised was the case from their appearance. The
whole struck me as being badly planned and loosely conducted : the
buildings are much too large and expensive; consequently to keep
them in repair, and meet the other expenses of the establishment
without additional aid, is impossible ; and like all attempts on too large
a scale, it must fail.

I am well aware that the gentlemen who have the matter in charge
are doing all that they can to meet their own wishes, and the expecta-
tions of the community, both at home and in the other islands ; but I
look upon their exertions as thrown away; for it requires practical
men and artisans to instruct the natives, and some plan is essential by
which their habits and customs can be changed. I was told here that
their character combines idleness and unclean habits ; that they are
deceitful, obstinate, indifferent to truth, and have no social qualities.

Each scholar now costs the society twenty dollars per annum,
seven dollars and fifty cents of which provides them with food; the
remainder, twelve dollars and fifty cents is for clothing. But besides
this, they are paid twenty-five cents per day when they are allowed to
work, which amounts to as much more during the year. Why this
premium has been adopted to induce them to work, I could not see;
and I look upon it as one of the very worst features of the establish-
ment, particularly when the scholars must see that their labour is
frequently of no acc.ount, as when employed in building stone walls to
enclose lands that are not worth fencing in.

That this institution is not popular among the natives, is little to be
wondered at. Many of them complain, as I have already said, that it

MAUL 249

is impossible for them to get their children there ; for to do so, they
must be themselves devout members of the church, and first place
their children at one of the district schools ; while it depends, after all,
upon the selection of the missionaries, whether the boys will be
allowed to enter.

From this school, of late years, have been taken all the native
teachers, and most of them are employed on the part of the govern-
ment; it therefore becomes desirable to all to have their children
educated in it.

There is another circumstance which prevents and interferes with
the proper cultivation of this establishment, namely, the want of water,
which the native land-owners refuse to allow the use of for the lower
part of the grounds. With a very little trouble and expense, this diffi-
culty might be overcome ; but there is wanting the inclination, both on
the part of the missionaries and government, to effect a change.

It is easy to point out the defects in an establishment, but much
more difficult to suggest a remedy. The difficulty is, perhaps, not
easily overcome, but I will offer one or two plans, which appeared to
me to be feasible, and calculated to give the natives a turn towards
becoming a pastoral as well as an agricultural people. The pupils
should be taught the care of cattle and the superintendence of flocks,
to which pursuit the greater part of the land of these islands is well
adapted. A sufficient inducement might be held out for exertion, by
giving them a portion of the increase of the flocks, that would recom-
pense them for their care, without increasing the expenses of the
society. Above all things, in their manual labour schools the higher
branches should not be taught before the pupils are all well grounded
in the lower ones; for instance, I can conceive of nothing more
absurd and useless than spending the time of both teachers and
scholars in studying Greek, as was proposed. Fortunately for the
students, however, they could not proceed for want of books. I would
not be understood as throwing any blame on the missionaries : there
are many errors committed and expenses incurred in conducting a
mission, that ought to be looked at with much charity by those who
are visitors, as well as by the society at home. Even a slight know-
ledge of the situation of things will show how difficult it is for the
Board of Missions to judge of the expenses incurred in carrying on
their operations, and how unwise it is for the managers at home to
control their agents, except by some general rules applicable to their
duties. The employment of persons in whom they have confidence
is the best and only security; and if those who are invested with

VOL. iv. 32

250 M A 0 1.

the power should make a wrong use of it, the remedy is to remove
them.

Much discontent has been caused, and the usefulness of the mission-
aries impaired, by the control which the Board of Missions exercises
over their conduct. The restriction on the liberty of the press, and
the extravagance complained of, is not justly chargeable to the con-
vention ; for, constituted as the Board is, it is impossible it should be
otherwise, and the effect naturally arises from employing an irrespon-
sible body. I am well satisfied that harm results to the cause from
want of full confidence being extended to those who are engaged in
these duties.

Lahaina being the great resort of our whalers in these islands, a
survey was made of the roadstead. The chief reason for resorting to
this place is, that their crews are more easily kept in order, and have
not that temptation to visit the shore that is experienced at Honolulu ;
besides, provisions are in greater plenty, particularly potatoes, which
are raised in abundance on the highlands of Maui.

Lahaina contains about three thousand inhabitants. More order reigns
here than in any other town of the same size I have seen in Polynesia.
This is to be attributed to the iniluence exerted by the authorities, and
to the absence of foreigners, and their attendant grog-shops.

To Mr. Richards, Dr. Baldwin, Mr. Andrews, and their families,
we are much indebted for many kind attentions during our stay.

The Rev. Mr. Baldwin is the pastor as well as physician of the
place, and preaches both in the native church and in the seamen's
chapel, which has been erected here by the subscriptions of the
whaling fleet. This was nearly completed at the time of our visit,
and is intended to accommodate about two hundred persons.

The native church is a large building, capable of containing one
thousand eight hundred persons, and the usual congregation is about
one thousand two hundred.

This district is well supplied with schools, containing between eight
and nine hundred scholars. Some of these are under the superinten-
dence of David Maro, the native teacher, and author of several tracts
before spoken of.

The district of Wailuku is composed of valley and upland. The
soil in the former is extremely rich and well watered; the uplnml,
also, produces good crops when sufficient moisture can be had. P<V;I-
toes, corn, sugar-cane, and sweet-potatoes, are the chief product
he windward side of the island.

In some places there are extensive woods, the trees in which are of

MAUL 251

large size; but the timber is of little value, being either soft and
spongy, or hard and difficult to work. Of the former kinds the
natives make their canoes.

The district of Kula, on East Maui, although extremely rough and
rocky, has a loamy, rich, and productive soil: it produces the finest
Irish potatoes, turnips, corn, melons, and wheat. The latter, of an ex-
cellent quality, is found growing wild. It was introduced about twenty
years before our visit, planted, and not the least attention paid to it ;
instead, however, of " running out," it has increased. At Malaca
Bay there is good anchorage for vessels of any size, and a fine
fishery.

The isthmus is too dry to be fit for cultivation : it is in extent about
twenty by fifteen miles. During nine months of the year it is a fine
grazing country, and feeds large herds of cattle, that are mostly owned
by foreigners.

The productions on Maui are the same as those of the other islands:
to these may be added a few fruits, as grapes, &c., but these are not
raised in large quantities.

In industry and enterprise, the natives of this island have made but
slow progress, though there is abundant evidence that they possess
both, if properly developed. This is shown in their attempts at culti-
vation.

The king, in order to foster a spirit of enterprise, proposed to a
company of about fifty natives, that each should cultivate a small lot
of land, of from one to two acres, with sugar-cane ; and that when
ripe he would manufacture it into sugar and molasses for one-half, and
would, besides, relieve them from all taxation. It was considered that
four-tenths of the sugar would pay for its manufacture, and that two-
tenths should be equivalent to the taxes. Sixty or seventy acres were
planted. The produce was found to be one and a half tons to the
acre, besides some molasses.

Both at Wailuku and at Hamakualoa, the natives have shown much
perseverance and enterprise in erecting stone churches. These are
built by native workmen, and their dimensions are one hundred feet in
length, by fifty feet in width. For the construction of that at Hama-
kualoa, they were obliged to bring the stones, lime, and sand, on their
backs, to the place of building. The lime and sand were brought
from a distance of two or three miles, and the timber was dragged
from four to six miles. In putting on the roof, it fell in twice, after
nearly all the timbers were up, and broke them to pieces ; but they
persevered until they had completed the edifice, which will contain

252 MAUL

about one thousand people. The whole amount of money laid out
was sixteen dollars ! At Wailuku the building-stone used was vesicu-
lar lava.

The following may give some idea of the duties of a missionary at
these islands. Their labours on the Sabbath are, a sermon at sunrise^
Sabbath-school at eight o'clock, sermon again at eleven o'clock, Bible-
class at one, and lecture at four. On week-days, going to adjacent
villages, lectures, schools, and visiting the poor and needy, besides
acting as physician for a whole district, which alone is a work of no
trifling labour.

In Wailuku, the population is thought to be decreasing at the rate
of about one hundred and thirty annually, but no adequate causes are
assigned for this diminution. The climate of Maui is healthy, and no
diseases prevail. Infanticide may be said not to exist. In speaking
with Mr. Richards upon this subject, he mentioned to me that there
had undoubtedly been very erroneous computations prior to the last
census of 1840 ; and a case had come to his knowledge in one district,
in which it appeared that the deaths had been registered, but not the
births : in this case, if the births had been noted, it would have led to a
directly contrary conclusion ; for, instead of showing three per cent,
decrease, it would have given that amount of increase.

I have before stated, that Messrs. Pickering, Drayton, and Bracken-
ridge were ordered to visit Maui. They embarked on board the native
schooner Kahalia, and with them went Dr. Judd. They had a long
and tedious passage, and instead of reaching Maui in a few hours, as
they had expected, they were several days, owing to a strong south-
west gale blowing. By this they were obliged to take shelter undei
the lee on the north side of Maui, where Dr. Judd and Mr. Drayton
landed, for the purpose of passing over land to Lahaina.

The north coast of East Maui is a succession of deep ravines,
which gradually diminish in breadth as they ascend, and are finally
lost on the flanks of the mountains: travelling along the coast, in
consequence, becomes almost impossible. Cascades are seen falling
in these ravines several hundred feet in height, having little volume of
water, however.

The face of Mauna Haleakala is somewhat like that of Mauna Kea:
it is destitute of trees to the height of about two thousand feet ; then
succeeds a belt of forest, to the height of six thousand feet, and again,
the summit, which is cleft by a deep gorge, is bare.

During their stay under the lee of the island, the king's schooner
sought refuge there also, having been driven from the roads of Lahaina

MAUL 253

where it is impossible to lie during the prevalence of southwest gales,
as vessels are then exposed both to the sea and wind.

The party who landed, and the schooner, arrived about the same
time at Lahaina, where our gentlemen were very kindly received by
the king and missionaries. They forthwith made preparations for a
tour to East Maui. The Rev. Mr. Andrews, his son, and four students
of the seminary, joined the party, together with six Kanakas to carry
their food. The Kanakas were engaged at twenty-five cents a day,
and twenty-five cents more was allowed for their food. The party
first passed to Wailuku, where it was further increased by the accession
of Mr. Baily.

In the evening they reached the sugar plantation of Messrs. Lane
and Minor, which they found one thousand six hundred and ninety-
two feet above the level of the sea. These are two very respectable
white men, who have married native wives. They are natives of
Boston, and have brought their Yankee enterprise with them. Here
all the party were kindly received. The plantation of these gentlemen
is of some extent, and although the cane grows more slowly here, it
makes better sugar than that on the low grounds, which is said to be
owing to the former not blossoming. The houses are partly of native
construction, and seem well adapted for their uses. The sugar-mill is
one of the largest on the island.

Crops of Irish potatoes are very productive here ; and corn is abun-
dant a thousand feet higher up the mountain.

The next day, the party set out at an early hour, in hopes of reach-
ing the summit, but it began to rain violently, in consequence of which
they took shelter in a large cave, at an altitude of eight thousand and
ninety feet. Here many interesting plants were found, among which
were two species of Pelargonium, one with dark crimson, the other
with lilac flowers ; the Argyroziphium began to disappear as they as-
cended, and its place was taken up by the silky species, which is only
found at high altitudes. From the cave to the summit they found
shrubby plants, consisting of Epacris, Vaccinium, Edwardsia, Compo-
site, and various rubiaceous plants.

On their arrival at the edge of the crater, on the summit, the clouds
were driving with great velocity through it, and completely concealed
its extent. The height, as ascertained by the barometer, was ten
thousand two hundred feet. The driving of the sleet before the strong
gale soon affected the missionaries and native students, the latter of
whom for the first time, felt the effects of cold. The limit-line of
woods was ascertained to be at six thousand five hundred feet,
w

254 M A U I.

Some sandalwood bushes were noticed about five hundred feet above
the cave. Above the cave the ground assumed a more stony appear-
ance, and the rock became now and then more visible, which had not
before been the case. Where the rock was exposed it was found to
be lava more or less vesicular, but no regular stream was observed.
The surface of the lava appeared to be more thickly covered with
earth than that of Mauna Kea, and consequently a greater proportion
of soil existed, as well as a thick coating of gravel. Near the summit,
bullock-tracks were observed, and likewise those of wild dogs, but no
other animals were seen except a few goats.

The crater of Haleakala, if so it may be called, is a deep gorge,
open at the north and east, forming a kind of elbow : the bottom of it,
as ascertained by the barometer, was two thousand seven hundred and
eighty-three feet below the summit peak, and two thousand and ninety-
three feet below the wall. Although its sides are steep, yet a descent
is practicable at almost any part of it. The inside of the crater was
entirely bare of vegetation, and from its bottom arose some large hills
of scoria and sand : some of the latter are of an ochre-red colour at
the summit, with small craters in the centre. All bore the appearance
of volcanic action, but the natives have no tradition of an erup-
tion. It was said, however, that in former times the dread goddess
Pele had her habitation here, but was driven out by the sea, and then
took up her abode on Hawaii, where she has ever since remained.
Can this legend refer to a time when the volcanoes of Maui were in
activity \

The gravel that occurred on the top was composed of small angular
pieces of cellular lava, resembling comminuted mineral coal. The
rock was of the same character as that seen below, containing irregular
cavities rather than vesicles. Sometimes grains of chrysolite and horn-
blende were disseminated. In some spots the rock was observed to be
compact, and had the appearance of argillite or slate : this variety
occurred here chiefly in blocks, but was also seen in situ. It affords
the whetstones of the natives, and marks were seen which they had
left in procuring them.

Of the origin of the name Mauna Haleakala, or the House of the
Sun, I could not obtain any information. Some of the residents thought
it might be derived from the sun rising from over it to the people of
West Maui, which it does at some seasons of the year.

Having passed the night at the cave, Mr. Daily and young Andrews
preferred returning to the coast, rather than longer to endure the cold
and stormy weather on the mountain.

M A U I. 255

Our gentlemen made excursions to the crater, and descended into it.
The break to the north appears to have been occasioned by the violence
of volcanic action within. There does not appear any true lava stream
on the north, but there is a cleft or valley which has a steep descent :
here the soil was found to be of a spongy nature, and many interesting
plants were found, among the most remarkable of which was the
arborescent Geranium.

The floor of the crater, in the north branch, is extremely rough and
about two miles wide at the apex, which extends to the sea. In the
ravines there is much compact argillaceous rock, similar to what had
been observed on Mauna Kea, retaining, like it, pools of water. The
rock, in general, was much less absorbent than on the mountains of
Hawaii.

Mr. Drayton made an accurate drawing or plan of the crater, the
distances on which are estimated, but the many cross bearings serve
to make its relative proportions correct. Perhaps the best idea that
can be given of the size of this cavity, is by the time requisite to make
a descent into it being one hour, although the depth is only two thou-
sand feet. The distance from the middle to either opening was up-
wards of five miles ; that to the eastward was filled with a line of hills
of scoria, some of them five or six hundred feet high ; under them was
lying a lava stream, that, to appearance, was nearly horizontal, so
gradual was its fall. The eastern opening takes a short turn to the
southeast, and then descends rapidly to the coast.

At the bottom were found beds of hard gravel, and among it what
appeared to be carbonate of lime, and detached black crystals like
augite, but chrysolite was absent.

From the summit of the mountain the direction of the lava stream
could be perceived, appearing, as it approached the sea, to assume
more the shape of a delta.

From the summit the whole cleft or crater is seen, and could be
traced from the highest point between the two coasts, flowing both to
the northward and eastward. Volcanic action seems also to have
occurred on the southwest side, for a line of scoria hills extends all the
way down the mountain, and a lava stream is said to have burst forth
about a century ago, which still retains its freshness. The scoria hills
on the top very much resemble those of Mauna Kea, but the mountain
itself appears wholly unlike either of the two in Hawaii, and sinks
into insignificance when compared with them.

Although I have mentioned lava streams on this mountain, yet they
are not to be understood as composed of true lava, as on Mauna Loa ;

256 MAUL

none of the latter were seen except that spoken of on the southwest
side, and none other is believed to exist. No pumice or capillary
glass was at any time seen, nor are they known to exist on this island.
On the wall of the crater, in places, the compass was so much affected
by local attraction as to become useless.

Near the summit is a small cave, where they observed the silk- worm
eggs of Mr. Richards, which were kept here in order to prevent them
from hatching at an improper season. The thermometer in the cave
stood at 44° ; the temperature at the highest point was 36°, and in the
crater 71°. After three days' stay, the party returned to the establish-
ment of Messrs. Lane and Minor, and thence to Wailuku. They
were much gratified with their tour.

On their return to Lahaina, Dr. Pickering and Mr. Brackenridge
took the route through the Wailuku Pass, as it is called, which with
its rocky peaks shooting upwards several hundred feet directly above
them, reminded them of the deep gorges of Madeira. Some fine
plants were collected, and unexpectedly among the most conspicuous
was a woody Lobelia, which gave its character to the vegetation.
The route did not prove so much shorter as was anticipated, owing to
the oblique direction of the valley.

It may now perhaps be as well to say a few words respecting the
operation of foreign opinions upon the natives, who are more prone to
take knowledge and advice from the books that are circulated among
them, than strangers are inclined to believe. Their gambling propen-
sities appear to have been very difficult to overcome; yet, from the
simple sentence "Do not gamble" having been printed in the first
books circulated among them, that expression has become almost
proverbial, and many have in consequence been restrained from in-
dulging in gaming to excess, while some have abandoned the practice
altogether.

From the inquiries I made on the subject of their vices, I am
satisfied that these have been much overrated by both residents and
missionaries, and I fully believe that these natives are as susceptible
of correct impressions as any other people.

They appeared to me to be wanting in that national pride which was
found a predominant trait in the groups we had previously visited.
They speak less of their country than other Polynesians; but Mr.
Richards and Dr. Judd both assured me that they felt a certain degree
of pride in their respective islands. As an instance of this, it was
stated to me that the government proposing to make the island ot
Kahoolawe a place for convicts, wished to induce the people of the

MAUL 257

*

island to quit it ; but no persuasion could prevail on them to do so ;
and it is said that this feeling has existed to such an extent there, that
the young women have refused to marry, unless under a pledge that
they shall not be required to remove. The people of Hawaii consider
themselves superior to those of the other islands ; next to them rank
the natives of Maui and Oahu, while Kauai is looked upon as the most
inferior. It was likewise mentioned that some individuals have come
forward to ask to exchange plots that had been assigned to them, for
those on which their fathers had resided, or where they were born.

I was much amused to hear that when one of the teachers of the
seminary gave out to the class as a theme, " Whether it was right for
parents to give away their children," all belonging to it took the affir-
mative side ! It is not to be supposed that their reasons were very
strong, but it was said the principal one urged was the difficulty of
travelling with them, and procuring food ; this practice having pre-
vailed from time immemorial, they no doubt endeavoured to find
reasons to justify it.

In the opinion of a native, the most distant relationship or con-
nexion, justifies him in calling on and receiving entertainment. They
not only consider that they have a right to partake of the hospitality,
but speak of it as a great convenience ; so that in choosing a wife or
husband, one who has many relations is a more desirable match on
this account than one who has few. This custom also causes more
intercourse between the islands than would otherwise take place, and
their small vessels seldom pass from one to the other, without being
well filled with passengers.

Among the visits I paid at Lahaina, was one to the regent Kekau-
luohi, who receives visitors during certain hours of the day. She lives
in a grass-hut near the water, and has several chiefs in attendance on
her: she appears to be a good-natured and contented person, and has
adopted some foreign customs in her way of living. She is not spoken
of as being equal to her sister, Kaahumanu or Kinau.

It has been mentioned, that on our passage from Hilo we had not
found the shoal said to exist off Kahoolawe. Receiving authentic
information that it really existed, I determined to send two boats,
under the command of Lieutenant Budd and Passed Midshipman
May, to seek for and examine it. The king, learning my intentions,
volunteered to send his yacht along with them. The yacht and boats
set out on this expedition, on the 17th of March, with a pilot who
knew the ground.

On the same day we took leave of our kind friends, and at noon got
VOL. iv. wa 33

258 M A U I.

•

under way and stood for Kahoolawe, to pick up the boats under Lieu-
tenant Budd. Owing to the light wind, we did not succeed in reach-
ing the point till late, where we found the king's schooner and the two
boats about to enter upon the examination. We, therefore, lowered
all the boats and sent them to search for the shoal. It was soon found,
and proved to be much nearer the point of the island than was antici-
pated. It lies a mile and a half off the point, and has one and a half
fathoms of water on it. We fixed bearings, by noting which, it may
be avoided. Vessels may pass within two miles of the point with
safety ; but as it is difficult to estimate the distance, it will be better to
pass the point at three miles distance, as nothing is lost by so doing.
It is remarkable, that this is the only shoal around the Hawaiian
Islands that is hidden from the navigator ; and even this is situated so
near the land that it can scarcely be deemed dangerous.

At nine o'clock, we took up the boats and bore away for Oahu.
Passing to the southward of Lanai, though at the distance of twenty
miles, we felt the effects of its highlands upon the winds.

Lanai is a dome-shaped island, and appears to have been frequently
rent, large fissures being apparent on its sides. It is exclusively of
volcanic formation.

The fish of these islands are numerous ; and to Mr. Richards and
Dr. Baldwin, this department of the natural history of the Expedition
is much indebted. Dr. Pickering remarks, that the natives appear to
be much better acquainted with the fish of their waters, than are the
inhabitants of any civilized port we have visited. A number of new
species were obtained ; for which I refer to the report on the ichthy-
ology of the cruise.

At Lahaina, bathing and frolicking in the surf are more practised
than in any other place in these islands. The inhabitants take great
delight in it ; and it is said that the king himself is extremely fond
of it.

The tide at Lahaina is irregular, being somewhat dependent on the
winds: it runs to the northwest generally sixteen hours out of the
twenty-four.

During our stay here on the 14th, a slight shock of an earthquake
was experienced.

After passing Lanai, I hauled up for Molokai, intending, as the day
was far advanced, to lie under the lee of that island for the night.
Molokai is about forty miles long and nine miles in width. One-third
of the island, towards the western end, is a barren waste, not suscepti-
ble of cultivation, except in the rainy season; it has in consequence

MAUL 259

few inhabitants, who are engaged mostly in fishing. The eastern two-
thirds are almost one entire mountain, rising gradually from the south,
until it attains an elevation of two thousand five hundred ; while on the
north, it is almost perpendicular.

On the south side, it has a narrow strip of land, not exceeding one-
fourth of a mile in width, the soil of which is very rich, and which
contains the greater part of the population. Owing to the want of
moisture, however, few plants will thrive even here ; resort is therefore
had to the uplands, which are found to be susceptible of the highest
degree of cultivation.

The amount of arable land, or that susceptible of cultivation, is
believed by the missionaries to be one-fourth ; but I should be inclined
to reduce it to one-eighth, from the report of others and my own
observations. Only about one-tenth of this is cultivated.

The population of the island was reported as five thousand, in 1840 ;
eight years prior, in 1832, it was six thousand: during this time, five
hundred marriages took place. The data has shown, that the births
much exceed the deaths ; and the decrease is attributed to emigration,
which has been going on for some time. The inhabitants are all poor,
and their pastor, the Rev. Mr. Hitchcock, asserts, that there are not
ten individuals on the island who have comfortable clothing and suffi-
cient food ; and he adds, that there has been no improvement in their
dwellings for the last ten years.

The schools on this island are little more than a name ; for they have
neither regular teachers nor school-houses. One thousand scholars are
said to be embodied in them.

The island has been occupied as a missionary station since 1832,
and the church contains about three hundred members.

Some efforts are making to introduce the cultivation of cotton and
sugar. All other articles are in want of a market ; and the distance of
Lahaina (about eighteen miles) is found too great, and the voyage
thither too uncertain, to derive benefit from it.

There are several small harbours within the reef, on the south side,
at Kaluaaha, the missionary station, which are capable of affording
shelter for vessels of from sixty to eighty tons.

The formation of Molokai is similar to that of the other islands.
Coral rock was reported to exist on one of the high hills. Some of the
same was found on the south side of Maui, at a considerable elevation,
specimens of which were presented to the Expedition.

On the 18th, we anchored off Honolulu, at an early hour, although
too late to enter. The appearance of the island was much more fertile,

260

MAUL

now that the winter had passed. There being no letters from home,
was a disappointment to us all. We were again warmly welcomed
by our friends and countrymen.

On the 19th, we went in and anchored in the outer harbour. Until
the 23d, we were employed getting off our stores, &c., and on the latter
day I was gratified with the arrival of the Porpoise, and was much
pleased to find them all well.

• •

NATIVE HOUSE, MAUI.

CHAPTER VIII.

CONTENTS.

PORPOISE SAILS FROM OAHU- MANUEL RODRIGUEZ -WALKER'S ISLAND-MANHII-
ARATICA — SAKEN ISLAND — SEA-GULL GROUP — ISLAND OP BARCLAY DE TOLLY —
WOLCONSKY — DEATH OF A KANAKA — TAWEREE — MARGARET'S ISLAND — FOUR
CROWNS OF aUIROS — ARCHANGEL — ST. PABLO— INTERVIEW WITH THE NATIVES —
RETURN TO ARATICA — RESULTS OF THE BORING — THEORY OF CORAL ISLANDS —
TIDAL OBSERVATIONS — INHABITANTS OF ARATICA — CANOE SPOKEN— ARRIVAL AT
TAHITI-DOMESTIC QUARRELS OF THE QUEEN— MEETING OF THE DISTRICT SCHOOLS

— MEETING OF THE AUXILIARY SOCIETIES — DISTURBANCE OF THE MEETING —
POLICE OF PAPIETI— AMERICAN COMMERCE AT TAHITI-PORPOISE LEAVES TAHITI

— MEETS THE TRADES — FLINT'S ISLAND — ST AVER'S ISLAND — PENRHYN'S ISLAND-
ISLANDERS— THEIR LANGUAGE— THEIR TURBULENCE— APPEARANCE OF THE WOMEN
—FEROCITY OF THE ISLANDERS— THEIR ARMS— THEIR CANOES— THEIR TALENT FOR
HARANGUING — LIEUTENANT -COMMANDANT RINGGOLD RESOLVES TO RETURN —
CURRENTS AND WINDS — ARRIVAL AT HONOLULU — RESULTS OF THE CRUISE —
PORPOISE FOUND TO NEED REPAIR — EFFECTS OF THE LAPLACE TREATY — PREPA-
RATIONS FOR DEPARTURE— PRODUCTIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN GROUP— ITS FLORA —
CLIMATE AND DISEASES.

(261)

CHAPTER VIII.

PAUMOTU GROUP AND PENRHYN ISLAND.
1840—1841.

THE disposition that was intended to be made of the Porpoise during
the winter months, has been mentioned in a preceding chapter; an
account of her proceedings in the prosecution of the duties assigned to
her, will now be given.

On the 15th of November, as has been before stated, she left Oahu.
In addition to her crew, a number of Kanakas were shipped for the
purpose of being employed, under the direction of an officer, on one
of the coral islands, to bore through the coral rock.

The first shoal searched for was that of Manuel Rodriguez : its sup-
posed locality, in longitude 153° 54' W., and latitude 10° 58' N., was
passed over, and no indications whatever of it were seen.

All the Kanakas became wofully sea-sick, and were lying about the
deck for several days, heedless of every thing ; after being out several
days, and the sea becoming smooth, they recruited.

On the 22d they had reached latitude 9° 13' N., when they expe-
rienced heavy rains, with frequent and vivid lightning, and constant
gusts of wind. The next and following days they saw many birds,
indicating a near approach to land. The easterly current was expe-
rienced between the latitude of 5° and 8° N., inclining more to the
northward of east than farther west. On the 1st of December they
passed to the eastward of Walker's Island. On the 3d, they crossed
the line, in longitude 149° 36' W. ; and on the 4th, the Magnetic
Equator, in latitude 2° S., and longitude 149° 10' W. They now had
the wind from the east, which was light, with calms.

On the llth, they made the island of Manhii, of the Paumotu
Group, and shortly after, that of Ahii, or Peacock Island : the same

(263)

264 PAUMOTU GROUP AND

day they spoke the whale-ship Nassau, of New Bedford, bound to
Tahiti.

On the 13th, they made the Rurick Chain.

On the 15th they reached Aratica, or Carlshoff Island, on which
Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold had determined to land the party
intended to experiment in boring, consisting of fifteen men, under
Lieutenant Johnson, among whom were nine Kanakas and three sea-
men, the armourer with his forge, and a carpenter.

They had much rain with frequent squalls. Until they reached the
latitude of 8° N., the wind prevailed from east-northeast ; then from
south to east, with frequent intermissions of calms ; and from the
parallel of 5° N. to 8° S., northeast winds were experienced ; to the
southward of the latter parallel, northwest and north winds. Lieu-
tenant Johnson, agreeably to my orders, was put in charge of the
party to conduct the experiments.*

By the 18th, they had succeeded in completing all the arrangements,
when the brig left them in successful operation, to pursue her cruise
for thirty or forty days to the windward part of the group.

On the 19th, they made Vincennes and Raraka Islands.

On the 20th, they made Saken Island, which proved low, with but a
few trees on it : the greater part of the island is a reef.

The next day they were up with the three small islands to the south-
ward of Saken, which they had been directed to look for and survey.
Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold found and surveyed them, and de-
signated the cluster as the Sea-Gull Group ; while to the three islands
he gave the names of Passed Midshipman Reid and Bacon, and
Quarter-Master Clute. Reid Island proved to be inhabited, and the
brig was boarded from it by two canoes. These contained four
natives, besides a toothless old man calling himself a missionary, who
readily consented to remain for the night on board : he- was quite
tastefully and well covered with tattooing, in chequered marks, as
described on our former visit to this group. The others were not
tattooed. The Tahitians on board had no difficulty in understanding
them.

The canoes were small and wretched, being only about five feet
long and two feet wide. The account these people gave of them-
selves was, that they had been residing on the island about a year,
and had been sent there in a Tahitian schooner, by order of the
Queen of Tahiti, for the purpose of raising food or productions useful
to man.

* For orders, sec Appendix X.

PENRHYN ISLAND. 265

On the 22d, several of the officers visited the island. Its population
consisted of about twenty-five men, women, and children, among whom
was the daughter of the old chief, considered by our officers as a very
beautiful girl, wkh fine figure, expressive countenance, and long silky
hair : she was sprightly, but I regret to say, was covered with vermin.
The children were fat and chubby.

Dip and intensity observations were made here, and observations
on shore for time and variation.

The village consisted of about six huts, which were extremely filthy
and smelt more like fish-houses than human habitations. All the
inhabitants seemed contented on this small and barren isle, which they
called Tuinaki, and which is, in every point of view, one of the most
uninteresting of the group. The poor creatures, in obedience to their
directions, were setting out cocoa-nut plantations, which were seen
growing all over the island : the trees were planted in pits about three
feet deep, in order to afford them moisture, and to protect them from
the winds. A small spring supplied the inhabitants with water.

Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, having finished all the necessary
observations, proceeded, on the 23d, in search of some islands to the
eastward. On the 26th they made the island of Raroia, or Barclay de
Tolly, and passed close to it. The position assigned to it on the charts
proved to be correct.

On the 27th, they made Takurea, or Wolconsky, with Raroia in
sight to the southward : there is a passage between them seven miles
wide. The former, Wolconsky, is of an oblong shape, ten miles in
circumference : its north end is high and thickly wooded with cocoa-
nut groves and other trees : its eastern boundary is partly a submerged
reef. There is no opening to its lagoon. It was found to be incor-
rectly placed on the charts.

On the 29th, one of the Sandwich Islanders died of a severe attack
of dysentery, and in the afternoon his body was committed to the deep
with the usual funeral ceremonies.

The search after Camboy's and Merril Islands proved unsuccessful.
The position assigned to them, longitude 141° W., latitude 15° 13' S.
having been cruised over without any appearance whatever of land.

On the 5th of January, they passed near Taweree, or Resolution
Island, but found there was too much surf to land upon it. There were
about twenty inhabitants, who, on the approach of the brig, came
running to the beach with cocoa-nuts to barter. They appeared to be
stout men, and were thought to resemble the natives seen at Clermont
de Tonnerre.

Taweree consists of two small isles, together about four miles in
VOL. iv. x 34

266 PAUMOTU GROUP AND

circumference: it has three clumps of cocoa-nut trees upon it, but of
its south and west sides the greater portion is a bare reef. After sur-
veying it, they bore up for the two groups, and the same afternoon
passed through the channel between them, which is a hiile wide, with
no soundings. The southern island was surveyed : it has a bare reef
on its southeast and west sides, with a cocoa-nut grove on the south
end. No entrance exists to the lagoon, and no natives were seen. The
southern portion of the northern isle is a bare reef, with some high
clumps of trees on the eastern side.

On the 6th, Nukutipipi or Margaret's Island was made. It proved to
be a small round lagoon island, two miles in circumference, high and
well wooded on the north side, with a flat submerged reef on the south-
east and east sides. After completing the observations, they stood for
Teku or the Four Crowns of Quiros, the island to the westward : it has
now five clumps of trees. It had no opening to its lagoon, nor could
a landing be effected. No traces of inhabitants were seen on either of
the islands.

On the 10th, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold made what they
supposed to be the island of Archangel, but very much out of place.
It is a small lagoon island, of oblong shape, lying northwest and south-
east ; wooded on the northeast and east, with a stunted growth of trees.
No cocoa-nut trees were seen, and the eastern portion of the trees
appeared as if burnt. A reef extends off the northwest and south-
west sides, with a heavy surf, and there is a submerged reef on the
south and west sides. No opening exists, and a landing cannot be
effected without imminent danger to the boats. Its native name is
Heretua.

The supposed location of Archangel was then searched for, but no
signs of land found. Turnbull Island was also looked for without
success.

On the 12th, they made the island of San Pablo, in latitude 19° 56'
S., longitude 145° W. This island is higher than those just mentioned :
it has several cocoa-nut groves, and natives were seen on the island.
No opening was observed into its lagoon.

Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold now lay-to, for the purpose of
communicating with the natives the next day. In the morning early,
several of them were seen fishing, and others on the beach, who fled
at the approach of the brig ; but on being hailed by one of the natives
on board, they came from their hiding-places, bringing down cocoa-
nuts, and showing a disposition to communicate. Lieutenant-Com-
mandant Ringgold went towards the shore in his boat, with some
presents: on the beach he found three men, with five women and a

PENRHYN ISLAND 207

number of children. An old and very savage-looking chief made
signs for them not to land, threatening them with spears if this was
attempted. Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold threw them some pre-
sents, and received in return a few cocoa-nuts and two large fish, the
smallest of which measured five feet two inches in length, and its
greatest circumference was four feet four inches. These proved to be
excellent food. They were remarkable for their splendid colour, the
great size of the canine teeth in each jaw, and a large protuberance
over the eyes ; the head was without scales, the body being covered
with large circular plates, over which the epidermis was very thick
and of a rich blue colour, with regular concentric stripes of yellowish
white ; the fins and tails were striped with straight lines of alternate
blue and yellow; the lips were fleshy, and the jaws strong and bony.

The men were of the dark-skinned race, resembling the Feejeeans,
of fine form, and crispy hair, with crowns of matting on their heads :
the old man had a silvery beard. They would not permit our people
to land, and on an attempt being made by a Sandwich Islander, they
stood prepared to spear him. Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold,
wishing to avoid collision, ordered him to return.

After searching around this locality for other islands, the Porpoise
steered to the northward, for the island of Aratica (CarlshofF). On the
15th they made the island of Tahanea: its south end is a bare reef, but
there are trees on the east and west sides. Fires were seen after dark
on the island. This, like all the other islands, has small islets around
it, connected by low coral reefs, over which the sea in places washes.

Passing in sight of Saken, Raraka, and Taiara, they made Aratica
on the 18th, where they found the party all well, and at once began to
embark them, which was completed on the 19th. The Porpoise then
bore away for Tahiti, two hundred and fifty miles distant, which they
made on the 21st, and the same day they anchored in Matavai Bay.

At the time the brig left him, Lieutenant Johnson had succeeded in
making a beginning with the apparatus. Considering the novelty of
the business, and that all were unacquainted with the uses of the dif-
ferent parts of the machinery, I was aware of the difficulty of the task
that would be imposed upon the officer who directed the operation. I
had therefore designated Lieutenant Johnson for this business, who, on
account of his ingenuity, perseverance, and mechanical contrivance,
was considered by me as most suitable for this duty. The under-
taking proved fully as laborious as I had anticipated, and Lieutenant
Johnson's exertions were worthy of better success. The principal
difficulties he had to encounter were the looseness of the sand, and the
falling in of the coral stones. Every means were devised to overcome

268 PAUMOTU GROUP AND

these impediments, but in the attempts the pipes became choked, broke,
and were thrown out of the perpendicular. When the impediments in
one place were found to be too great to be overcome, it was abandoned,
and the work begun anew. The greatest depth to which he succeeded
in reaching was twenty-one feet: ten to eleven feet were generally
accomplished without much difficulty; but after that depth was
arrived at, they frequently did not succeed in getting down beyond
one foot per day.

The coral shelf, composed of conglomerates and compact coral rock,
seems to have afforded an impediment to further progress. After the
breaking of pipes and augers, and the occurrence of various other
accidents, principally from the impossibility of maintaining a perpen-
dicular, Lieutenant Johnson began from his acquired experience to
hope for success a day or two previous to the arrival of the brig,
when the whole was abandoned by order of Lieutenant-Commandant
Ringgold, and every thing embarked. I am well satisfied that there
is no insuperable difficulty in boring into coral islands; but in the
present case the season of the year was somewhat against them, as it
caused them to encounter much more water in the soil than they would
oiherwise have met with. The proper season for such an attempt would
be the dry one. Much rain fell during their stay ; and although no
serious sickness occurred, yet many felt unwell.

To the Geological Report I must leave the details of the boring.
Agreeably to my instructions, a specimen of each foot reached was
preserved.

These experiments turned out very much as I anticipated, viz : that
we should find but little coral sand, and an occasional stratum of coral
rock. Since my return, I have seen the results of a similar experi-
ment made by Captain Belcher, on another island, (Hau or Bow
Island,) in the same group. They are identical with ours.

Before I close the subject of coral islands, I cannot refrain from
making a few remarks, derived from my own observations while I
was engaged among them. My opportunities have been numerous,
and I have had every facility for viewing to advantage, not only those
exclusively of coral formation, but also the reefs that surround the
high volcanic islands, which afford the most safe and convenient
harbours of the Pacific.

After much inquiry and close examination, I was unable to believe
that these great formations are or can possibly be the work of zoo-
phytes ; and the arguments by which it is endeavoured to maintain
this theory, appear to me to be inconsistent with the facts. I cannot
but view the labours of these animals as wholly inadequate to produce

PENRHYN ISLAND. 269

the effects which I observed, and I was satisfied that the very appear-
ance of the reefs was sufficient to contradict any such impression.
The ingenious theory of Darwin, which has of late been promulgated,
and which holds that an equal subsidence and growth are taking place,
is alike at variance with the configuration, extent, and general con-
struction of the reefs.

In all the reefs and islands of coral that I have examined, there are
unequivocal signs that they are undergoing dissolution. Thus, it will
be recollected, that in the first volume of this narrative, I gave various
sketches of coral blocks now existing on the top of reefs, and also
spoke of the various shelves, soundings, and longitudinal cracks that I
had observed. All these phenomena have been since those first obser-
vations repeatedly met with. To account for the position of these
blocks, it has been assumed that they had been thrown up by the sea ;
but their positions, weight, and situation, are such as to contradict
such an idea. They are found in many cases standing erect on their
smaller ends, and have evidently formed an upper shelf, of which they
are now the sole remain^. In every observed instance, they were at
some distance from the outer edge of the reef on which they stand,
and they were also seen covered with debris of the coral, that has
been mentioned as forming the highest portion of the islands. It
would be utterly impossible for any sea to toss so great a weight to
such a distance ; and if such masses were even broken off from a reef
by the action of water, they would undoubtedly have obeyed the laws
of gravity, and descended to the unfathomable depths beneath them.

The low coral islands, as far as they have been investigated, both
by boring and sounding, have shown a foundation of sand, or what
becomes so on being broken up.

The elevated coral islands which we have examined, exhibit a
formation of conglomerate, composed of compact coral and dead
shells, interspersed with various kinds of corals, which have evidently
been deposited after life has become extinct. A particular instance of
this was seen at the island of Metia, and the same formation was also
observed at Oahu.

The abrading effects of the sea on all the islands and reefs, was
evident, for they exhibited throughout a worn surface. Some living
corals are indeed found at the surface, but a few inches beneath it the
reef is invariably a collection of loose materials, and shows no regular
coralline structure, as would have been the case if it had been the
work of the lithophyte.

All the coral islands lie within an ocean subject to the effects of
volcanic action, and we have no reason to doubt that they would be

X2

270 PAUMOTU GROUP AND

as liable to be upheaved and depressed by it as those of unquestion-
able igneous origin. With so great and powerful an agent at hand, it
seems to me there is no necessity for resorting to a cause inadequate
of itself, and at variance with the facts. It seems almost absurd to
suppose that these immense reefs should have been raised by the exer-
tions of a minute animal, and positively so to explain the peculiar
mode of construction by which reefs of an annular shape are formed,
when in nine cases out of ten they are of other figures.

Those who will examine the charts of the Pacific Ocean, and view
the relations which the coral islands bear to one another, as well as
the extent of ocean through which they are spread in groups, will
entertain but little doubt that many of them which are now separated
have at some remote period been joined, and formed extensive tracts
of land. They must also be inclined to believe that their alteration
and dismemberment have been brought about by the same causes that
affect other lands. If this be the case, there would be no difficulty
in accounting for the lagoons, as they now present themselves. Be-
fore I reached the coral islands, I had derived an impression, from the
attempts to explain the manner of their formation, that all the reefs
would be found level with the water, and have a uniform surface ; but
so far from this being the case, they are all irregular and much rup-
tured, some wholly above the water, others awash, and some again
altogether submerged, having various depths of water over them.

As the coral islands have sand and limestone for their base, it would
appear possible to account for the formation of the lagoons by sup-
posing that, after the several portions of the pre-existing continent
were separated from each other, the outer edge or line of coral, une-
qually worn by the sea, had become more compact in some cases than
in others. Thus, while the border of the island resisted in one place,
it might be torn asunder in others, and through the washing influx
and efflux of the sea, strata underlying the centre might be carried
off into the deep sea in the shape of sand and mud, or in solution.
The centre, thus undermined, from want of support would cave in,
and form the inverted cone or tunnel-shaped lagoon, generally found
in the centre of these islands, surrounded by an outer rim, variable in
width and elevation.

Actual observation proves that the reefs and islands are undergoing
dissolution, for at many points where former navigators have laid
down shoals of coral, none now exist. One reef, in particular, noticeu
by those who visited Tahiti ten years before we did, was found by
Captain Belcher, of H. B. M. ship Sulphur, to exist no longer. This
officer states that he visited and surveyed the place where it is laid

PENRHYN ISLAND. 271

down on previous charts, and that it was not to be found. In speaking
of Bow Island, he likewise mentions the fact that several of its points
had undergone material change, or were no longer the same,* when
visited after a lapse of fourteen years. These remarks refer particu-
larly to islets situated within the lagoon. I could myself quote many
instances of the same description; but this would occupy too much
space.

I shall, therefore, take leave of the coral islands, trusting that these
few remarks may excite a spirit of investigation in others.

Among other duties assigned Lieutenant Johnson were tidal obser-
vations, which were continued uninterruptedly, from the 19th of De-
cember, 1840, till his departure from the island; but unfortunately,
the tide-staff was placed in the lagoon, a place not free from objections,
because the tide there has but a small rise and fall, and is much in-
fluenced by the wind, that blows the water over the reef, giving less
tide and a longer outflowing there ; but the flood was distinctly seen,
by Lieutenant Johnson, during a fishing excursion at the entrance of
the lagoon, to flow in rapidly ; and the high tide was correct, for the
water on the reef was two feet or more in depth. The record of
these observations gives the high water at the full and change of the
moon at six o'clock : the rise and fall in the lagoon eight inches, and
two tides in twenty-four hours. During our visit to this island I had
observed a fall of upwards of two feet, and have to regret that the
tide-staff was placed in so unfortunate a position.

Lieutenant Johnson reports the inhabitants as being twenty in num-
ber, seven men, eight women, and five children. In this small com-
munity they seem to experience the ills of life as well as elsewhere ;
for of the men, one was aged, another helpless, and a third a cripple,
and one of the women was stone-blind.

On the day the Porpoise made Aratica, they discovered a large
double canoe, with two mat-sails, which proved to be from Anaa, and
bound to Aratica ; there were sixteen persons on board, men, women,
and children, together with their mats, calabashes, and large supplies
of cocoa-nuts, &c., with which they declined parting. They had left
Anaa, a distance of one hundred and thirty miles to the southward, the
morning before. The canoe was a dull sailer, the brig leaving her
far behind ; she, however, reached the entrance to the lagoon during
the day, and was warped through the passage into it.

The next day the Porpoise sailed for Tahiti, where she arrived on

* See Captain Belcher's remarks on Bow Island — Voyage around the World in 1836
and 1842.

272 PAUMOTU GROUP AND

the 21st of January. The appearance of things at Papieti seemed very
much as they had been twelve months before ; but some events had
occurred during the year, which it will be as well to notice, as they
will show how things are conducted, and give an insight into the con-
duct of royalty that was little dreamed of by us on our former visit.

On the 7th of May, one of the unhappy domestic feuds of the royal
family threw the whole of Papieti into a ferment. The queen, followed
by all her attendants, with great lamentations, rushed into a foreigner's
house, to escape from her royal consort, who was pursuing her, utter-
ing dreadful menaces. The facts of the quarrel, as derived from
authentic sources, are as follows. As Pomare was on her way to
Papieti from her residence at Papaoa, she was met by Pomare-taui
riding furiously. Owing to the turn of the road, he did not perceive the
queen's party in time to stop, and ran over one of the maids, knocking
her down, and bruising her. Pomare, attributing the accident to his
being intoxicated, began to abuse him in opprobrious terms. Enraged
at it, he dismounted, and began not only to abuse, but also to strike
her. Not content with this, he caught her by the hair, threw her
down, and attempted to strangle her, which he was only prevented
from doing by the attendants, who held him until Pomare fled for her
life. Disappointed in overtaking her, he hurried to her new palace at
Papieti, and vented his anger by demolishing the windows, breaking
open her boxes and trunks, and tearing her wardrobe and finery to
pieces, — thus doing injury to the amount of some two thousand dollars.

On the perpetration of this outrage, the queen at first declared her
intention of summoning the judges and suing for a divorce ; but soon
changed her mind, and forgave her husband on his promising future
good behaviour.

Although this may appear extraordinary conduct on the part of the
king-consort, yet when one learns that the queen has been in the habit
of giving him a sound cudgelling, even on the highway, his conduct is
not so surprising, particularly as it is said that she administered her
punishments with such earnestness and force that he would not be
likely soon to lose the remembrance of them.

These broils in the royal family may, I believe, be justly charged to
the foreign residents whom I have spoken of before as being the authors
of them, for they administer to his depraved appetite in order to derive
pecuniary advantage from these disturbances.

On the llth of May, a great meeting of the district schools took
place at Papaoa. This had been in prospect for several weeks, and
every one was anxious for the event. The procession to the chapel
was the great scene of display : here the orator of the day was to offi-

PENRHYN ISLAND. 273

ciate, after which a feast was to be given by the queen to the chiefs
and children.

As there was some novelty in this celebration, which was the first
of the kind attempted, I will give a short description of it, derived
from an eye-witness. First came the boys of Papieti and Papaoa, to
the number of about two hundred, dressed in blue cotton coats and
trousers, the seams bound with narrow strips of red and white cloth,
the facings of the coats of many colours, and not unfrequently the
coats themselves of diverse colours on the alternate sides : the skirts
were also of different colours ; others were to be seen with white
jackets, and skirts of plaid cloth ; on their heads they wore home-made
cocked-hats, manufactured from bullock's-hide, on which were pasted
representations of men, birds, beasts, fishes, &c., cut out of coarse paper
or bark, and affixed with gum.

Next followed the young men and boys of Matavai and Pappino,
similarly equipped. One among these attracted particular attention
for his cap was decorated with two tiers of small looking-glasses, sur-
mounted by a crown of feathers, a large bunch of which was stuck
into an old tin nutmeg-grater, in front, as a pompoon, while by way
of decoration was seen suspended on the left breast, by a blue riband,
the polished bottom of a brass candlestick. Many of the larger boys
had on epaulettes and swords ; others were armed with sticks, and had
epaulettes of shavings dyed yellow. A number of the older boys
carried flags of tapa, stained and decorated with fanciful devices.

Next came all the female children, very neatly dressed, and the
queen, Pomare, with her attendant maids of honour, thirty in number,
arrayed in white, with neat straw bonnets, profusely decorated with
gay ribands and feathers: the larger proportion of them had short
stockings on for the first time in their lives : each of them carried a
silken scarf suspended to the end of a long reed, and the scarfs were
of every variety of colour.

In the rear was Pomare-taui and the principal chiefs : the latter
were dressed in military costume, and their clothes fitted so well that
they might be termed well dressed.

Near the chapel, sentinels were posted to keep off the crowd : these
had muskets, said to have been borrowed for the occasion, with which
they saluted the queen as she advanced. At intervals in the procession
were officers and the monitors of the schools, for the purpose of keeping
order.

At the chapel, the services were conducted by Mr. Pritchard, who
made an address of an hour's duration, which was listened to with
great attention ; after which the procession formed again, the queen
VOL. iv. 35

274 PAUMOTU GROUP AND

and her attendants leading the way to the feast. This was spread in
a large house at Toanoa Point, which had been erected for the occa-
sion, surrounded with a palisade, and gaily decked with flags, &c.

Near the entrance her majesty halted, and the children passed in
review before her, the monitors shouting at the top of their voices,
" God save our Queen Pomare, may her life be long !" to which the
children responded, " Amen." They then formed in line and received
the queen, taking off their caps and bowing low as she passed. About
thirty foreigners were there to pay their respects : these she invited to
dine with her, fine mats being spread for their accommodation. On the
centre of these mats were placed fresh leaves of the hibiscus, on which
native food was served, consisting of baked pig, taro, bread-fruit, &c.,
cooked in a variety of ways, with fermented cocoa-nut pulp: for sauce
there were small calabashes of salt water, and for drink the young
cocoa-nut milk : each person was furnished with a plate, but knives
and forks were not supplied. Mr. Pritchard said a short grace, when
her majesty set the example to the rest, and they all began with
good-will.

When the royal party had finished, the schools by districts suc-
ceeded ; and after all had done, the procession was again formed, and
marched several times round the enclosure, chaunting, and going
through a variety of gesticulations and manoeuvres, with surprising
accuracy, and in excellent concert.

Several speeches were now made by Mr. Pritchard and the chiefs,
highly commendatory of the conduct of all, and laudatory of those
present, including the foreigners, who returned their acknowledgments
to the queen for the civility. Thus ended this day's feast.

The scene that took place the next day will serve to show the
hostile feelings of which I made mention in my account of this island,
as existing between the high chiefs and the queen's party.

A meeting had been called for the purpose of receiving the reports
of the auxiliary societies, and the returns of contributions : the people
were found assembled ; her majesty was robed in a crimson silk, and
her maids in close-fitting jackets of the same colour, with white skirts.
Notwithstanding the religious tendency of the meeting, want of har-
mony interrupted its proceedings, and extended to such lengths at one
time as to have had the appearance of terminating very seriously.

This misunderstanding arose from the circumstance of the Matavai
people having dined with the queen the day before, instead of keeping
an engagement they had made with the Anaan chiefs at another place.
The latter were indignant that they should have been thus treated witli
neglect without apology.

PENRHYN ISLAND. 275

The Matavaians, instead of coming into the chapel at the door
appointed for them, chose that which had been appropriated to the
Anaans, at the opposite end. The latter, imagining that this was
done out of bravado, pushed back the foremost of the Matavaians and
closed the door. The Matavaians, being under the impression that it
was intended they should be excluded altogether, burst it open and
rushed in, headed by Hitoti and Paofai. A scene of uproar and con-
fusion immediately ensued. There were at this time more than five
hundred persons in the chapel, and the men were striking at and
wrestling with each other, tumbling over the benches in all directions,
while those who did not fight were shouting and encouraging the
combatants.

Several of the chiefs, with Messrs. Pritchard, Darling, Wilson, and
others, among whom was old Taati, laboured in vain to restore peace
and quietness: the affray continued; swords were drawn, muskets
handled, and all appeared preparing for a bloody fight. The ladies of
the mission present sought safety beyond the building ; while all the
native women made a general flight to the Broom Road.

Pomare and the king-consort behaved with great spirit : the former
seized upon Hitoti ; the latter, being of great strength and power, used
his fist upon several of the ringleaders, knocking them down and
putting the rest to flight.

The affray lasted half an hour, and terminated in the expulsion of
the Anaans with several bruised heads. Upon quiet being restored,
the ladies returned, when the Rev. Mr. Wilson, of Matavai, preached
a sermon on " brotherly love," reproving them for their want of it,
and for their disgraceful conduct. He expressed much sorrow that
his congregation, of which he had been in charge forty years, should
have behaved so ill, unmindful of the numerous lessons he had given
them.

After the sermon, the contributions for the year were counted, and
found to be about four hundred dollars : little more than half those of
the preceding year. After this, a discussion took place as to the best
mode of preventing the recurrence of a like scene, and also the course
to be pursued in punishing the offenders.

In consequence of the disturbance, the feast which was to have
taken place was dispensed with, and most of them retired to their
homes ; but it was afterwards understood, that a good many remained
and kept up an uproarious night.

The friends of good order agreed in opinion that this day's dis-
turbance would be rather beneficial than otherwise, by showing who
were most desirous of preserving harmony ; and perhaps would lead

276 PAUMOTU GROUP AND

to more caution in future. This, it seems to me, is rather an absurd
argument as respects a community that have been acting under a
constitution and laws, with their pious teachers, for the last fifteen or
twenty years.

These distui'bances manifestly arise from want of respect, on the
part of the rival chiefs, for their queen and her husband : the latter are
disposed to look upon the royal conduct as disgraceful, and as setting
an example highly derogatory to their own standing and that of the
chiefs and nation. They believe these difficulties to be owing to the
intervention of foreigners, who take every opportunity to set the
laws at defiance ; and since the visit of the Venus, Captain Du Petit
Thouars, foreigners have been still more active in taking advantage
of the difficulties that these natives get into.

At the time the Porpoise visited Papieti, the queen was absent on
a visit to one of the other islands of the group, accompanied by a large
retinue of attendants, with nearly three hundred soldiers, dressed in
queer and uncouth uniforms, somewhat similar to what has already
been described.

Since our first visit, it was remarked by the officers, that a more
efficient police had been established at Papieti : no sailors or riotous
persons were allowed to be abroad after eight o'clock, without a
written pass from the consul ; and in case of being found without, such
a document, the offender was put in the stocks and kept there until a
fine of two dollars was paid. This regulation was found necessary to
preserve the peace of the village ; and was said to be rigidly enforced.

The American property that has visited the ports of Tahiti during the
last year, has, according to information derived from our consul,
amounted to upwards of five millions of dollars.

Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold having completed the duties, in-
cluding the magnetic and chronometric observations he was charged
with in visiting Tahiti, obtained water, refreshed the crew, and took his
departure; but in consequence of the calms that prevailed, he found
much difficulty in leaving the port.

Immediately on getting outside, they were influenced by a rapid
current, setting to the southward. For three or four days they had
very light winds or calms, and made but little progress on their route :
the weather was exceedingly warm. On the 3d of February, they had
a strong breeze from the northward and northwest ; after this had con-
tinued for two days, it hauled to the northeast. Several of the crew
were taken down with dysentery and fever.

The trade-wind was found at this season of the year in latitude 13°
S. ; and from what information I was able to gather, I am disposed to

PENRHYN ISLAND. 277

believe that it cannot be calculated upon during the months of Decem-
ber, January, and February, south of latitude 14° S.

On the 6th of February, they made Flint's Island, situated in
longitude 151° 48' W., and latitude 11° 25' 43" S. It is of small size,
being only one mile and a half in length, from north-northwest to south-
southeast, and thickly wooded: high breakers extended off its point for
some distance, and the surf was so high that it was deemed impossible
to land with a boat, which is to be regretted, as these isolated islands
are always extremely interesting. No inhabitants were seen. The
current was found to be setting to the westward.

The next island searched for was one reported to have been seen by
Captain Cash. It was discovered on the 8th, and proved to be a low
sandy islet with a lagoon. It is well wooded, half a mile in diameter,
of oval shape, with heavy breakers surrounding it. Landing was
reported to be impossible, and no attempt was made. After determining
its position to be in latitude 10° 05' S., and longitude 152° 22' 30" W.,
they bore away for the position of Penrhyn Island. Lieutenant-Com-
mandant Ringgold believed the island last spoken of to be Staver's
Island, and by this name it is designated on our charts. At night the
water was very phosphorescent : its temperature 78°.

The Porpoise next passed over the supposed site of Teinhoven
Island, without seeing any signs of land, and thence northwest across
two positions assigned to Penrhyn's, examining particularly that given
by Captain Cash, in latitude 9° 58' S., and longitude 158° 14' W. No
island, however, was seen. Proceeding further to the northwest, they,
on the 15th, discovered land, which proved to be Penrhyn Island, about
thirty miles west of its place on Arrowsmith's Chart. It was of the
usual coral formation, low, and densely covered with trees, among
which the cocoa-nut was the most conspicuous.

The vessel stood off and on all night, and on the 16th, at sunrise,
canoes were discovered approaching the brig, in great numbers, many
of them large. At seven o'clock, two came alongside, and others soon
followed them. As the numbers of the visitors increased, they became
more bold, and clambered up the sides, uttering loud and savage yells.
They were the wildest and most savage-looking beings that had been
met with, vociferating in a frightful manner, and accompanying their
exclamations with the most violent contortions and gesticulations : they
seemed frantic with excitement. These natives were quite naked,
except a few who had on a small maro of cocoa-nut leaves.

The canoes contained from seven to sixteen men each, all equally
wild. The noise they made was almost deafening; every individual
talking earnestly in a language not comprehended by our party. The

278 PAUMOTU GROUP AND

tone of their voices was altogether discordant, at one moment high and
shrill, and at the next sinking to a deep gruff' base. In their harangues
they slapped their thighs with great violence, and some wrung their
hands and cried, protruding their eyes, and making frightful grimaces,
reminding one strongly of maniacs in their utmost frenzy. They were
not capable of fixing their attention for a moment on any one object,
but with fitful rapidity they changed their regards from one thing to
another.

Although they at first seemed unarmed, yet, upon a close inspection
it was seen that they had weapons concealed in their canoes. A few
of them succeeded in getting on board, and several articles were pil-
fered from the poop-deck, among them a pea-jacket, which was
quickly and adroitly secreted in one of the canoes. A huge savage,
with his eyes apparently starting out of his head, seized the man-rope,
pulled the stanchion out of its place, and was in the act of passing it
over the side when it was rescued from him. The islanders now be-
came troublesome, and the order was given to clear the decks, which
was quickly done by the crew with their cutlasses, but none of their
visitors were injured. The moment they got into their canoes, large
pieces of coral and shells were hurled on board with great force : two
guns were fired over their heads, but they took no notice of them, and
stood up in their canoes, brandishing their spears and yelling defiance.
As their numbers were constantly increasing, Lieutenant-Commandant
Ringgold thought it prudent to keep the brig under way, beat to quar-
ters, and made preparations to meet attack, if it should be intended.

Three or four canoes were kept towing astern, and after many
ineffectual and long-continued efforts, a trade was begun for their
arms, necklaces, &c., which they parted with for iron, knives, cloth,
and other articles. The first they designated by the name of " toke,"
and the meaning of several other of their words was ascertained.
These islanders did not know the use of tobacco, but would receive
any and every thing offered : on receiving the articles they immedi-
ately thrust on board the article sold, and appeared fair in dealing,
though they proved themselves to be expert thieves.
• Like other natives of Polynesia, they seemed a half amphibious
race, diving for any thing dropped overboard with great ease and
unconcern. They are of a light olive colour, though darker than
either the Samoans or Tahitians, with fine black hair. The old men
had beards and mustaches. They partook of the Samoan cast of
feature, and are an equally athletic, erect, and finely-formed race.

Neither tattooing nor circumcision appears to be practised, but many
of the men were observed to have lost their front teeth. The custom,

PENRHYNISLAND. , 279

however, of scarifying the body and limbs appears to be general.
Dress they had none, except a small maro. A few words were found
to resemble the other Polynesian dialects, but neither the Hawaiians
nor Tahitians could communicate with them.

Only two or three women were seen : they were delicate in appear-
ance, of light complexion, and feminine cast of features, with long
glossy hair, and beautiful white teeth. Dr. Holmes remarks that
their mammae were immensely large. The women from their gestures
proved themselves to possess habits fully as unchaste and profligate as
elsewhere in Polynesia.

From what was seen of these natives, they appeared a ferocious
and quarrelsome set, paying little attention or regard to the old men,
whom they treated with great roughness. On the occasion of a canoe
being overturned by coming in contact with a larger one, and drifting
astern, an old man seized hold of the larger canoe, to save himself
from following his boat ; but instead of any assistance being offered
him, his fingers were struck until he relinquished his hold and was
obliged to seek his own canoe.

Few evidences of rank were observed among them, and but one
was seen who had the appearance of being a chief. This was an old
man, who was seated in the centre of a canoe, paddled by fifteen
natives, who were striving hard to overtake the brig. He wore a sort
of mantle of plaited leaves over his shoulders, with a fillet of leaves
on his head, and his whole bearing and conduct betokened authority.
A bunch of what were apparently cock's feathers was also noticed.

Spears made of cocoa-nut wood, from six to eight feet long, were
the only weapons seen among them, with the exception of pieces of
coral.

For ornaments they had strands of human hair braided and deco-
rated with finger-nails half an inch long, and two to each strand.
Only two or three of them wore short mantles.

Their canoes were of a dark-coloured wood, with a light out-rigger,
and without sails: they were ingeniously constructed of pieces sewed
together with sennit; they leaked badly, however, and it was neces-
sary to keep one man constantly baling. They were the largest that
had yet been seen constructed on a low island. These people appear
to have few tools, and the only articles of European manufacture that
were seen was a plane-iron fastened to a stick, in the form of an adze,
with a few blue glass beads.

The island was by estimate fifty feet high, and was found to be
nine miles long, north-northeast and south-southwest, and about five
miles wide, with an extensive lagoon, having in it many coral

280 PAUMOTU GROUP AND

patches : there is a boat-entrance into it. On the northwest side there
appears to be a continuous village, with cocoa-nut groves throughout
its whole extent, and the island is evidently very thickly peopled :
the ferocity of the savages precluded the possibility of attempting a
landing.

The island is believed to afford some tortoise-shell and pearls ; but
the ferocious and savage disposition of the natives would require
traders to be strongly armed.

Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold induced one of the natives to
come on board for a hatchet, and directed him to draw the shape of
the island with a piece of chalk ; but he proved so wild and was so
much amazed, that he did nothing but leap about, constantly uttering
exclamations.

The communication with this island was too brief and imperfect to
obtain any satisfactory knowledge of its manners and customs, and
the disposition of the natives was averse to such intercourse : they
appeared to have been seldom visited by vessels. It is believed that
they have the domestic fowl among them, from its feathers having been
seen as ornaments. The yam was also observed, but not the taro.

The brig supplied them with sweet-potatoes, pumpkins, and oranges,
and made signs that they were to plant them, which they well under-
stood, and engaged to do.

In exchange for the various articles we received, they were given
knives, shawls, iron, hatchets, and cotton cloth.

It was remarked that they possessed the most astonishing talent for
haranguing : some individuals continued for three quarters of an hour
to hold forth in a tone which it seemed impossible for any individual
to sustain for more than a few minutes, hardly stopping to take breath,
and keeping up at the same time constant and violent gesticulations.
These attracted no attention from their fellows, as each seemed bent
upon doing his part, and tried to be equally uproarious.

It was now deemed impossible to extend the cruise to the Isles of
Danger, agreeably to the instructions, on account of want of time and
scarcity of provisions. This I regret, as I was very desirous that these
islands, pointed out by Admiral Krusenstern, should be examined.
This cruise would also have embraced the western positions of Flint's
and other islands, as laid down on Arrowsmith's Chart. Compelled to
forego this part of his intended task, he stood to the northward, for the
purpose of fulfilling that portion of his instructions that lay in his route
to the Hawaiian Group.

Between latitudes 3° S. and 5° N., the easterly current was found
to prevail, as before observed by the squadron, between 5° and 10°

PENRHYN ISLAND. 281

N. They then experienced light northeast winds, with strong equa-
torial currents, which with the strength of the northeast trades carried
them to leeward, and prevented their making the Hawaiian Islands.
This rendered necessary the curtailment of the rations to less than
one-half. The officers, with proper spirit, shared the privations of
the men, and tendered their stores to the commander for the common
stock.

On their way north, New York Island was seen; and on the
evening of the 24th of March, they anchored off Honolulu, after an
absence of four months and nine days, only eight of which were passed
in port.

The results of this cruise of the Porpoise were satisfactory to me,
although it had been found impossible to carry out all the duties
embraced in her instructions. The performance of those that were
accomplished was attended with much fatigue from the adverse state
of the weather, an obstacle I was somewhat apprehensive of, but not
to the extent that they experienced. Had I been at liberty, or had
time allowed, I should have gladly chosen another season for it. With
suitable weather, there would have been ample time to accomplish the
whole.

While on this cruise, they were more troubled with sickness on
board the brig than at any other time during our absence: several
cases of dysentery occurred, one of which, as before mentioned, proved
fatal.

From the report of Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, relative to
the Porpoise, and on examination of her bottom, the copper was found
so far gone as to make it necessary to re-copper her. This cause of
detention was unlocked for, and I had been in hopes to give her crew
a short relaxation ; but there was no opportunity for it. The necessity
of a speedy departure admitted of no delay. She was accordingly
hauled into the wharf, and they commenced heaving her down. The
crew of the Vincennes assisted in these duties. Some few difficulties
occurred, but by the uninterrupted and constant attention of all, the
work was soon completed, and the brig again prepared for sea.

During this time the effect that the introduction of French wines
and brandies had had upon the habits as well as morals of the lower
orders, became very evident; and to avert this evil influence from the
crews of both vessels became one of the most troublesome duties the
officers had to perform. So great is this annoyance, that I think it
sufficient to prevent the making of any repairs but what can be done
at anchor in the harbour, and will ere long, I fear, prevent this port
from being the resort of the whaling fleet, or even of casual vessels.

VOL. iv. YS 36

PAUMOTU GROUP AND

For this reason I would recommend Lahaina and Hilo Bay, to those
vessels which only require refreshment, as being the preferable stopping-
places.

During this time, observations were had for the rating of our chro-
nometers, and many other duties were performed, besides finally
settling up the accounts of the squadron, which occupied us until the
3d of April, when the Vincennes left the harbour and anchored in the
outer roads, leaving the Porpoise to follow as soon after as possible.

Although I have mentioned various productions of the soil of the
Hawaiian Islands, in describing the several districts that were visited,
yet it may be as well to record in this place, those we found indigenous
to the islands. They consist of the following important plants.

Taro (Caladium esculentum), of which they have thirteen varieties :
ipulemo akea is that most cultivated. It is planted at all seasons of the
year, usually in patches which are also used as fish-ponds. All parts
of the taro are used : the leaves form, when cooked, what is termed
" luau," and from this the natives give the name of luau to every
thing cooked with them : as luau pig, or luau dog. The taro of the
upland is the same kind as that grown in the water.

The yam (Dioscorea), uhi of the natives, is not so plentiful nor so
good, at this group, as we found it on the islands in the South Pacific.

Arrow-root (Tacca) : this already begins to form an article of com-
merce, and might be much improved, both by cultivation and in its
preparation, which ought to be taught to the natives. It must even-
tually form an important object to those who trade with this group.

Sweet-potato : this vegetable some think may have been introduced
by the Spaniards. There are thirty-three varieties of it, nineteen of
which are of a red colour, and thirteen white.

Sisymbrium grows about Honolulu, and is used by the residents as
a salad.

Fern-root (Blechnum), the core of which is eaten by the natives.

Cocoa-nuts are plentiful, but little used.

Papaw apple (Carica papaya) is abundant.

Rose apple (Eugenia) is plentiful, and a very fine fruit.

Bananas, plantains, abundant.

Candle-nut (Aleurites triloba), tutui of the natives. The oil of this
nut is becoming an article of commerce, and is said to answer for
painting.

Bread-fruit (Artocarpus incisa), of which there is only one species.

Pandanus, " lauhala" is one of the most useful trees they have : the
leaves are used for making baskets, mats, and for thatching their
houses. The women make necklaces from the nuts.

PENRHYN ISLAND.

Hibiscus tiliaceus, " haw," also serves many purposes, among which
is the manufacture of ropes: its wood being light and tough, is used
for out-riggers, and for sticks to carry burdens on.

Acacia, which is used in a variety of ways.

The black mustard has become naturalized.

Turmeric (Curcuma) is also found, I understood, in considerable
quantities on Maui, of which some has been procured for sale, and
was pronounced to be of excellent quality.

Indigo is found growing wild, particularly in Hawaii. Almost all
kinds of foreign fruits and vegetables have been introduced, and with
but few exceptions, succeed well : this is also the case with many
ornamental trees, shrubs, and plants.

It was observed by our botanists, that the character of the flora of
the Hawaiian Islands is similar, in many respects, to both the Indian
and Polynesian, yet in some particulars it bears a strong contrast to
the southern Polynesian islands. This difference consists in the absence
of all species of Ficus : the small varieties of trees are also absent,
although there are some extensive forests. Orchideous plants are
extremely rare, and the epiphytic species wanting altogether, while
the Compositae are much more abundant than in the more southern
islands.

In the ferns, however, the difference is most obvious, and consists in
the predominance here of different genera and tribes.

The absence of American plants was also observed here: they did
not appear to be much more numerous than at the southern islands,
notwithstanding what has been generally reported.

The most remarkable feature of the flora is the woody Lobeliacese ;
these are in great variety, and constitute several distinct genera.

It is believed there are more than fifty genera of different families
peculiar to these islands; and with regard to species, it is thought all
that are unequivocally indigenous, will be found strictly confined to
this portion of the globe.

The botanical regions may be divided into that of the sea-coast, the
wooded district below the altitude of six thousand feet, and a third
division at a still higher level. Alpine plants do not occur here. For
further remarks on the interesting botany of this group, I must refer to
the Botanical Report of the cruise.

Having spoken so much of the climate of the different districts, it
will only be necessary here to take a general view of that of the whole
Hawaiian Group. The monthly mean temperature ranges between
70° and 78°. This remark applies to the coast almost exclusively ;
for, as would naturally be expected, on higher elevations the thermo-

284 PAUMOTU GROUP AND

meter stands lower. The daily variation is seldom more than ten or
twelve degrees. The barometer does not usually vary much from
30-00 in. It will have been perceived that there is a great difference
in the degree of moisture which exists within a few miles ; indeed, I
might say, that within a few rods a different climate often prevails: in
this respect, there are few places in the islands so remarkable as the
immediate vicinity of the town of Honolulu.

While parts of the town are rarely visited by showers, other portions
of it are noted for the frequency of their occurrence. In passing from
the town up the valley of Nuuanu, rain becomes more frequent, until
at last the superabundance of moisture is quite annoying.

There is a great variety of opinions relative to the healthfullness of
the climate, and it certainly has opposite effects upon the feelings of
different persons. Upon the whole, the leeward side of the island is to
be preferred as a place of residence, although the quantity of dust
renders it at times very uncomfortable, for it seldom happens that
there is sufficient rain to lay it ; while on the weather side the fre-
quency of showers is much complained of. In some parts, it is said,
a day never passes without rain.

With respect to the force of the trade-wind, which generally prevails
for nine months of the year, it is at times, extremely unpleasant, and
blows over the high land of the islands with great fury, sometimes
becoming dangerous to vessels in the neighbourhood. This remark
applies particularly to the small islands: the larger ones have alternate
land and sea breezes, which moderate their temperature, and usually
the winds are not so violent. The most delightful part of the twenty-
four hours is the night, and I have never experienced such pleasant
ones in any other part of the globe. Though warm, there is an elasti-
city in the air that never exhausts. In the winter season, from Decem-
ber to March, the trade-winds for the most part cease; calms take
their place, and occasionally a southwest gale is experienced for two
or three days. This is generally preceded by a heavy swell setting
from that quarter, and a great increase in the surf. This wind is
accompanied by heavy rain: we did not experience it ourselves, except
while on the mountain ; but the residents informed me that it was
extremely uncomfortable, and instead of the elasticity usually felt in
the northeast wind, they experienced a heavy dull feeling, relaxing the
whole system. At certain seasons of the year there are heavy dews ;
exposure to them, however, is not deemed injurious.

The diseases of the climate are few, and generally of a mild type,
and from the report of physicians long resident, the islands may be
considered healthy for foreigners. The diseases that are most preva-

PENRHYN ISLAND. 285

lent are fevers, diarrhoeas, inflammations, dropsy, catarrhs, ophthalmia,
asthma, dysentery, rheumatism, scrofula, and venereal

These diseases, notwithstanding the absence of apparent causes, are
frequent among the natives; but many of them are brought on by
living in their grass-houses, which are by no means impervious to the
weather, and are consequently often wet. Another frequent cause is
the partial decomposition of the grasses with which they are thatched
on the roof and sides. In passing into them I invariably experienced
a smell of mustiness, and a mouldy appearance is frequently seen
about their mats and tapas. From the openness of the houses they
of course are subject to all the atmospheric changes, which must naiu-
rally induce disease by the constant checking of perspiration, a cause
that is rendered still more active by their sleeping on damp ground.

Ophthalmia is much complained of, particularly about Honolulu,
Lahaina, and some places on Kauai: this might be ascribed to the
quantity of dust that is daily put in circulation by the trade-winds, were
it not that the disease is equally prevalent where this cause does not
exist. I have heard it suggested that the prevalence of the strong
trade-winds, with the salt spray driven by them, may be another cause.

Cutaneous diseases are usually caused by the want of cleanliness ;
for, although the natives are in the habit of bathing frequently, yet,
from my observations of their customs and dwellings, I cannot but
deem them a filthy people : the tapa and cotton clothing of both sexes
is worn until it is fairly in rags, and has become so dirty as to be dis-
gusting : they seldom if ever think of a change of raiment. Their
houses are shared with their domestic fowls, dogs, and pigs, and are
rarely free from the dirt that so many denizens must produce. One
sees that most filthy disease, the itch, not unfrequently affecting the
larger portion of the inmates of a house, and I could not help wonder-
ing that so little improvement had manifested itself among them, in
their habitations and mode of living.

My friend, Dr. Judd, assured me, that hepatic diseases were ex-
tremely rare, and that this ocean seems to be peculiarly exempt from
all biliary diseases. The ground of this belief, is the almost total
absence of them on board our whaling fleet. The physicians of Hono-
lulu and Lahaina, where these ships often stop in large numbers,
assured me that they seldom heard of a case. These islands are indeed
little subject to these diseases, or the typhus, bilious, and yellow fevers,
which prevail so extensively on the continents. They are also free
from the measles, small-pox, &c.

The diseases of children are frequent, but may chiefly be accounted
for by the want of cleanliness and attention from their parents : hence

286 PAUMOTU GROUP AND

the great mortality among them, which has been before spoken of. They
are also allowed to eat the most indigestible food, and from this and
other causes are frequently seen covered with excoriations and ulcers,
that are truly horrible.

A somewhat similar disease to that which we have observed in the
other Polynesian islands, exists here under the name of the poupou ; but
it is by no means so violent, nor did we see any cases of so disgusting a
character as those heretofore described : it is very much confined to the
young.

In speaking of the native diseases, I cannot but think that many of
them are brought about by the habit of eating their food so much
fermented, until indeed at times it has become disagreeable to the
smell: in this state, however, it is always preferred. I do not remem-
ber having observed this to be the case in any other of the Polynesian
islands, as respects their vegetable diet.

Epidemics are not frequent, although a dreadful one prevailed in
1803 and 1804, which is said to have destroyed a large number of the
inhabitants, and visited all the islands.

The whooping-cough was introduced in some way, and spread itself
throughout the group.

The influenza prevails both during the winter and spring, but is only
fatal to the old and weak.

The native doctors, if such they may be called, frequently aggravate
disease by their nostrums. Dr. Judd related to me many instances of
their quackery, which not unfrequently ended in death. The native
remedies, however, are of some value, if they had knowledge enough
properly to apply them ; but without this intelligence, they are at all
times more or less dangerous : they consist of the candle-nut ( Aleurites
triloba), the bitter calabash (Cuourbita lagenaria), the seeds of the
castor-oil nut, a species of Ipomrea, and many other powerful herbs,
of which they make strong decoctions : these are often administered by
enema, and their operation frequently brings on great agonies and
death. To these are added incantations, which of themselves are quite
enough to kill. But, worst of all, it often happens that those who are
well are induced to take preventive remedies for future sickness, which
are said in some cases to be more severe than the constitution of the
patient can bear.

Of surgery the Hawaiians know nothing whatever, nor have they
much occasion for its practice, for few of them receive injuries suffi-
cient to call for the application of that branch of the healing art.

The physicians attached to the mission, of which there are several,
do incalculable good in alleviating distresses and superintending their

PENRHYN ISLAND. 287

wants : all this is done gratuitously, and I think seems little esteemed,
however strange it may seem, by the natives. I very much doubt the
policy of giving their services and medicines free of charge, for the
natives are abundantly able to pay, and I make no doubt would do so
if they felt they could thus command the services of the physician
whenever needed.

This is a part of the organization of the American Mission that is
highly commendable : in no other mission is it found. It not only
alleviates the cares of the missionaries themselves, in their families, but
adds greatly to their success, and power of doing good. One of the
great difficulties in practising medicine among the natives, is their
heedlessness and inability to restrain their appetites, both as respects
the patients themselves, and their families and friends: they often dis-
regard all injunctions as to diet, nor do they exercise any control
whatever over the sick. The natives, however, are adepts in alleviating
pains, as I myself can testify : the practice of the loomi-loomi seldom
fails in assuaging headache and pains in the limbs ; but this is not
practised by those who are the disciples of Esculapius.

Although the Hawaiian Is-lands have been much vaunted as a resort
for invalids, I am not satisfied that it would be beneficial to visit them,
unless the person afflicted would, on choosing the most suitable abode
for his recovery, confine himself to the circumscribed limits. Few
comforts could be looked for, unless the patient were to become an
inmate of some one of the missionaries' or respectable residents'
houses, where they will be sure to enjoy all the kind attentions and the
care of another home.

PENRHYN ISLAND FISH-HOOKS, ETC.

CHAPTER IX.

CONTENTS.

DEPARTURE FROM OAHU— SICKNESS OF THE CREW OF THE PORPOISE-SEARCH FOR
UNKNOWN ISLANDS — CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT — BAR OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER— DE-
TERMINATION TO PROCEED TO THE NORTHWARD— DANGER OF THE VESSELS NEAR
CAPE GRENVILLE-WRECK OF A JAPANESE JUNK— INDIAN CANOE— STRAITS OF JUAN
DE FUCA— INDIANS VISIT THE SHIP— THEIR APPEARANCE— MODE OF TAKING WILD-
FOWL — PROTECTION ISLAND — PORT DISCOVERY— INDIANS— THEIR MANNERS, ETC.—
THEIR CANOES— THEIR WARS— GENERAL ORDER— WOODS AROUND PORT DISCOVERY-
INDIAN MESSENGER — INDIAN BURIAL-PLACES—DEPARTURE FROM PORT DISCOVERY

— PORT TOWNSEND — PORT LAWRENCE — APPLE-TREE COVE — ADMIRALTY INLET —
PUGET SOUND — ANCHORAGE AT NISQU ALLY — VISIT FROM MR. ANDERSON AND
CAPTAIN M'NIEL— SCENERY AT NISQUALLY— PLAN OF OUR OPERATIONS— VISIT TO
FORT NISQUALLY— MISSION— PUGET SOUND COMPANY — MOUNT RAINIER — PRESENT
OF BULLOCKS FROM MR. ANDERSON — STEAMER BEAVER — LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S
PARTY SET OUT — DEPARTURE OF CAPTAIN WILKES'S PARTY — RIVER NISdUALLY
—CAMP AT SIIUTE'S RIVER — BUTE PRAIRIE— CHICKEELES RIVER— COWLITZ FARM-
MR. FORREST'S HOSPITALITY— CLIMATE OF COWLITZ— SIMON PLUMONDON— NATIVE
MODE OF DRESSING LEATHER— EMBARKATION ON THE COWLITZ RIVER— ITS SHORES
—SUPPOSED BEDS OF COAL— ENTRANCE INTO THE COLUMBIA RIVER— MOUNT COFFIN

— OAK POINT — ST. HELEN'S REACH — TONGUE POINT — ASTORIA — EXCURSION TO
POINT ADAMS-MISSIONARIES AT CLATSOP— CLATSOP VILLAGE— PUNISHMENT OF A
MURDERER — VOYAGE TO VANCOUVER — TONGUE POINT — INDIAN MEDICINE-MAN —
COFFIN ROCK — INDIAN MOURNING — WARRIOR POINT — CALL APUYA — VILLAGE OF
VANCOUVER — FORT VANCOUVER — DR. M'LAUGHLIN — COMPANY'S ESTABLISHMENT-
BUSINESS TRANSACTED AT VANCOUVER— CONDITION OF THE COMPANY'S SERVANTS
AND DEPENDANTS — HOSPITABLE RECEPTION OF THE MISSIONARIES — HALF-BREED
CHILDREN — MORALS — CROPS — FARM — DAIRY FARM— OLD FORT VANCOUVER— GRIST
AND SAW MILLS— MANUFACTURE OF AXES— SUDDEN RISE OF THE RIVER— PARTY OF
YOUNG AMERICANS.

Z

CHAPTER IX.

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.
1841.

ON the 5th April, 1841, we had completed our repairs, and made
arrangements for the transportation of our stores to the Columbia
river by the brig Wave. The Porpoise was ordered to leave the
harbour in the afternoon, and anchor near the Vincennes in the outer
roads. Towards sunset we took leave of our kind and numerous
friends, and the same night at llh 30m, the signal was made for
getting under way. We soon afterwards made sail, and steered to
the westward, in order to pass between the islands of Oahu and
Kauai.

Light winds prevailed for several days, during which we made but
little progress. The second day after our departure, Lieutenant-Com-
mandant Ringgold made signal that the rudder of the Porpoise was
out of order, and would not work. We therefore hove-to, and sent
the carpenters of the Vincennes on board the Porpoise, who returned
in a short time and reported that it was all right. The winds for
these first few days were northerly, and therefore not only light, but
contrary.

During this time the crew of the Porpoise was much afflicted with
sickness. This, according to the report of Assistant-Surgeon Holmes,
was caused by the constant labour which the men had undergone, and
to their dissipation while in port. The cases were of a very serious
character : four of them took the typhoid fever, and what was singular,
seven of the persons affected were petty officers. The worst case was
that of the carpenter, who had probably undergone more fatigue than
any other person.

(291)

292 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

On the 9th, at the request of Dr. Holmes, Dr. Fox was sent on
board the Porpoise to hold a consultation.

In all these cases there was much fever, attended with constipation
and a tendency to inflammation of the bowels. Until the 15th the
state of the sick continued critical, but, through the perseverance,
attention, and skill of Dr. Holmes, the disease was finally conquered.
As the sick became convalescent, I was desirous of having them re-
moved to the Vincennes, but the medical gentlemen were of opinion
that it was not expedient to transfer them to that vessel, lest the dis
ease might be of an infectious character.

During all this time the crew of the Vincennes enjoyed remarkably
good health.

On the 12th, in latitude 25° N., longitude 160° W., we found the
current setting north-northeast. By the 16th, the temperature fell to
64°, which we felt as exceedingly cold.

In proceeding to the north, I was desirous to pass over a portion of
the sea that had not been examined by preceding navigators, particu-
larly as it is confidently believed by many persons in the Hawaiian
Islands, that land existed in the neighbourhood where we now were.
I was, therefore, anxious to make search for it in such places as had
not been explored by others, and I had procured a chart, showing the
tracks of Portlock and others. This search was made as closely as
time and opportunity permitted, but ineffectually. I am, however, far
from satisfied that land may not exist in this quarter, for we in fact did
little in the way of exploration, in consequence of the foggy and hazy
weather which limited our view.

The part of the Northern Pacific which lies between the latitudes
of 33° and 43° N., and longitudes of 140° and 150° W., is particularly
subject to fogs and thick weather, and there are few places where
indications of land are stronger: thus, numerous birds were seen, of
species found only in the vicinity of land. I therefore feel satisfied
that although we failed from want of sufficient time for a thorough
search, land will be found at some future day within the space just
defined.

On the 19th of April we had a sudden change of the wind from the
southward to the northwest, accompanied with a heavy head sea.
The temperature fell ten degrees within half an hour : the barometer
stood at 30-20 in. On the 20th, a hawk was taken, while regaling
himself upon a small land-bird. Many flocks of small birds were
seen, as well as frigate-birds and quantities of villula, which gave
the ocean the appearance of being covered with cinders. They were

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 293

quite as numerous as described by Vancouver, and continued to be
seen in large quantities for the distance of six hundred miles.

On the 23d April, I changed my course again, to avoid running over
that portion of sea which had been already traversed by others, and
on that day we saw several flocks of small birds, like snipe in appear-
ance. The wind favoured us, and carried us forward at a rapid rate.

In latitude 42° N., longitude 149° W., we lost sight of all the villula,
and the thermometer fell to 51°. At night we had a heavy dew, and
the temperature was as low as 46°. We now experienced a strong
current setting to the southward and eastward. Petrels and albatrosses
were seen in abundance.

On the 28th of April, at 6 A. M., we made Cape Disappointment,
which we soon came up wTith. A heavy sea, caused by the strong
winds that had prevailed for several days, was running. I, notwith-
standing, stood for the bar of the Columbia river, after making every
preparation to cross it ; but on approaching nearer, I found breakers
extending from Cape Disappointment to Point Adams, in one unbroken
line.

I am at a loss to conceive how any doubt should ever have existed,
that here was the mouth of the mighty river, whose existence was
reported so long before the actual place of its discharge was known,
or how the inquiring mind and talent of observation of Vancouver
could have allowed him to hesitate, when he must have seen the
evidence of a powerful flood of fresh water contending with the tides
of the ocean, in a bar turbulent with breakers, in turbid waters extend-
ing several miles beyond the line of the shore, and in the marked line
of separation between the sea and river water. Such appearances
must be constant, and if seen, the inferences could hardly be question-
able, that the great river of the west poured itself into the ocean at
this point.

Mere description can give little idea of the terrors of the bar of the
Columbia : all who have seen it have spoken of the wildness of the
scene, and the incessant roar of the waters, representing it as one of
the most fearful sights that can possibly meet the eye of the sailor.
The difficulty of its channel, the distance of the leading sailing marks,
their uncertainty to one unacquainted with them, the want of know-
ledge of the strength and direction of the currents, with the necessity
of approaching close to unseen dangers, the transition from clear to
turbid water, all cause doubt and mistrust.

Under such feelings I must confess that I felt myself labouring; and,
although I had on board a person from the Sandwich Islands who pro-

Z2

294 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

fessed to be a Columbia river pilot, I found him at a loss to designate
the true passage, and unable to tell whether we were in a right way
or not. I therefore, at once, determined to haul off with the tide,
which was running ebb with great rapidity, and which soon carried us
back into the blue water of the ocean, to wait there until the sea on
the bar had in some measure subsided.

The land near the mouth of the river is well marked, and cannot
readily be mistaken, and on the summit of the two capes are several
lofty spruce and pine trees, which the officers of the Hudson Bay
Company have caused to be trimmed of branches nearly to their tops.
These serve as conspicuous marks, but our pilot was ignorant of their
relation to the channel.

Our passage from Oahu had been no more than twenty-two days,
which is unusually short. The first part of it, until we passed in lati-
tude 28° N., beyond the influence of the trades and variables, had been,
as already stated, attended with light and contrary winds.

The temperature of the air had fallen from 78° to 43°, and that of
the sea to 46°.

During the night we had boisterous weather, and the ship was very
uncomfortable, in consequence of her shipping water in considerable
quantities through the hawse-holes, wrhich flooded her gun-deck. As,
in conformity with my determination to wait until the surf on the bar
should have subsided, the anchors would not be needed for some days,
I ordered the chain cables to be unbent, which would permit the hawse-
holes to be closed.

During the night, I took into consideration the loss of time that must
arise from awaiting an opportunity to cross the bar, and after due
reflection came to the conclusion that it would be better to proceed at
once to the Straits of Juan de Fuca, and there begin my work on this
coast. At daylight, therefore, (bearings of the cape had been taken
the night previously and our position carefully calculated, and a course
steered to run along the coast,) I spoke the Porpoise, and immediately
bore away to the northward. Signal was then made to her to follow.
Both vessels then proceeded at the rate of eight or ten miles an
hour.

The weather was very thick, and the wind south-southwest. At
ten o'clock the Porpoise was close under our lee-quarter. I was
myself below, when I was informed by the officer of the deck that we
had entered disturbed water. A number of birds were around the
vessels, and a cast of the lead gave fifteen fathoms. By the time I
reached the deck, land was seen through the haze, close aboaid.

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 295

The ship was at once brought by the wind and all the studding-sails
taken in.

The same discovery was made on board the Porpoise, and she was
in the act of communicating it by signal. Neither of the vessels now
had much water under their keels, and both were in imminent danger.
We owed our safety to Ihe good qualities of the vessels, which were
on this occasion very evident, and to the conduct of the officers and
crew, whose promptness and attention to the execution of the orders
deserve my highest praise, and reflect great credit on their discipline.

Our situation caused me much anxiety for a short time ; and this
was one of the many hair-breadth escapes from wreck, incident to
this cruise. The difficulty of our position was enhanced by the heavy
sea we had to encounter, into which the vessels plunged so heavily as
to endanger our spars. The same cause had prevented us from bend-
ing the chain cables, so that we had no means of anchoring until after
we had passed the most dangerous points.

We had several casts of the lead in five, six, seven, eight, and nine
fathoms.

In examining into the cause of our being found so unexpectedly in
this position, I am led to believe that there is a current that sets upon
the coast : and in this I was confirmed by trials made afterwards.

Soon after we were out of danger, it cleared up sufficiently to give
us a view of the land, which proved to be Point Grenville of Vancou-
ver, and Destruction Isle. The latter is easily known by some remark-
able perforations through a rock near it.

Near Point Grenville, several accidents have happened, both to
English and Russian vessels ; and a boat's crew belonging to one of
the latter, was inhumanly massacred by the Indians.

It was also near this spot, that the very remarkable occurrence of
the wreck of a Japanese junk happened in the year 1833. The officers
of the Hudson Bay Company became aware of this disaster in a sin-
gular manner. They received a drawing on a piece of China-paper,
in which were depicted three shipwrecked persons, with the junk on
the rocks, and the Indians engaged in plundering. This was sufficient
to induce them to make inquiries ; and Captain M'Niel was despatched
to Cape Flattery to obtain further information, and afford relief, should
it be needed.

He had the satisfaction to find the three Japanese, whom he rescued
from slavery; and the Hudson Bay Company with characteristic
liberality, sent them to England. Thence they took -passage to China,
where I understand they still remain, in consequence of their being
unable to obtain a passage to Japan

296 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

As a memorial of this extraordinary incident, porcelain of Japanese
manufacture, \vhich was purchased from the Indians who plundered
the junk, was seen in possession of Mr. Burnie, the agent of the Hudson
Bay Company, at Astoria.

On the 29th and part of the 30th, we had light airs and calms, so
that we made little or no progress. In the afternoon of the 30th, the
breeze freshened and carried us briskly to our destination. While
thus proceeding, a large canoe, containing about twenty Indians, en-
deavoured to board us ; but I was too anxious to reach an anchorage
to regard their desires.

I was in hopes that the wind would continue fair, and enable us to
have reached Neah Harbour ere night ; but as we approached Cape
Flattery and opened the Straits of Fuca, it became contrary. We
were therefore compelled to pass the night, which proved dark and
rainy, under way. We had but little knowledge of the dangers that
might surround us ; but our frequent tacks throughout the night showed
us that but few existed at the mouth of the straits.

The coast of Oregon, to the south of Cape Flattery, is rocky, much
broken, and affords no harbours, except for very small vessels. It
may therefore be considered as extremely dangerous, and particularly
on account of its outlying rocks. The soundings on this coast,
however, I afterwards discovered, may serve as a sure indication by
which danger may be avoided, and safety may be insured by not
approaching the coast into soundings of less than seventy fathoms.

On the morning of the 1st of May, we found ourselves well into
the straits ; and as I proposed to defer the survey of this part of them
until my return, we hastened to reach Port Discovery, where we
anchored at half-past 6 p. M. on the 2d of May ; just forty-nine years
after Vancouver, pursuing the track of De Fuca, had visited the same
harbour.

The Straits of Juan de Fuca may be safely navigated. The wind
will for the greater part of the year be found to blow directly through
them, and generally outwards: this wind is at times very violent
The shores of the strait are bold, and anchorage is to be found in but
few places. We could not obtain bottom in some places with sixty
fathoms of line, even within a boat's length of the shore.

The south shore is composed of perpendicular sandy cliffs, that run
back into high and rugged peaks, and is covered with a forest of
various species of pines, that rises almost to the highest points of the
range of mountains. The highest points themselves are covered with
snow ; and among them Mount Olympus was conspicuous, rising to
an altitude of eight thousand one hundred and thirty-eight feet.

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 297

The north shore is rocky, and composed, as far as we could examine
it of conglomerate, and in some few places of a reddish granite.

In the morning we were boarded by a large canoe, with Indians
who spoke a few words of English ; and we had occasion to notice
the wide difference between them and the Polynesians, both in lan-
guage and appearance. No contrast can be more striking than this.
They seemed to have scarcely any idea of decency, and to be little
less elevated in their moral qualities than the Fuegians.

The principal man of the party was dressed in a coarse coat of red
cloth, with the Hudson Bay Company's buttons, and corduroy trou-
sers. He had neither shirt, shoes, nor hat, although the rain was fall-
ing fast. The others were habited in blankets or skins, and wore
conical grass hats, resembling in shape those of the Chinese.

The first inquiry was, whether we were Boston or King George's
ships, by which terms they distinguish Americans and English.

They brought with them for sale some fish and a few furs. On th*>
latter they appeared to set a high value, and were not a little disap-
pointed when they learned that we had no desire to purchase them.
They readily parted with their fine fish for a few fish-hooks and a little
tobacco.

These Indians were short, thick-set, bow-legged, muscular, and
seemed capable of enduring great fatigue. The most obvious pecu
liarity was the shape of their heads, which appeared to have been
compressed, both before and behind, so as to give them the form of a
wedge. Their cheek-bones were high, and their eyes, which were
fine, were set wide apart: their colour was a light copper. The
oblique eye of the Chinese was not uncommon, and they had long
flowing hair : aquiline or Roman noses were prevalent. Their coun-
tenances wore an expression of wildness, and they had, in the opinion
of some of us, a melancholy cast of features.

It was amusing to us, who had no very exalted opinion of the Fee-
jeeans, to observe the contempt our prisoner Vendovi entertained for
these Indians, which was such that he would hardly deign to look at
them..

They manifested little curiosity, which was not excited even by the
appearance of a ship so much larger than any they could have before
seen, armed and manned in a manner so superior to what is usual in
the vessels that visit them for traffic.

They wore but few ornaments, and that on which they seemed to
set the greatest value was a small silver tube stuck through the carti-
lage of the nose. A few of them had small brass bells suspended
around the rim of their ears.

VOL. iv. 38

208 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

Their language was one of the most disagreeable we had yet heard
full of gutturals, and the sounds klick, kluck, and tsck.

Late in the afternoon, we reached and weathered the low sana-
point, called by Vancouver New Dungeness, and stood over for his
Protection Island. We passed within less than a quarter of a mile of
the point, where we had three and a half fathoms water.

After passing that island, an extensive bay opened, on whose shores
we saw the long poles mentioned by Vancouver, and represented in
his book. The use of these he was unable to discover, but the Indians
informed us that they were for the purpose of suspending nets for
taking the wild-fowl that frequent these shores in great numbers. On
these poles the nets are set up at night, at which time the geese search
these grounds for food: fires are then lighted, which alarm the birds,
and cause them to fly against the nets, by which they are thrown upon
the ground, where, before they have time to recover themselves, they
are caught and killed.

The description of Vancouver is so exactly applicable to the present
state of this port, that it was difficult to believe that almost half a cen-
tury had elapsed since it was written. The beautiful woods and lawns
of Protection Island, in particular, exist unchanged. The lawns still
produce the same beautiful flowers and shrubs, and although closely
surrounded by dense woods, do not seem to have been encroached
upon by their luxuriant growth, although there is no apparent reason
why it should not long ere this have overrun them.

Our anchorage in Port Discovery was close to the shore, in twenty-
seven fathoms water. It is a well-protected harbour, and very con-
venient of access, but the depth of water and the high precipitous
banks, would almost preclude its being made the seat of a settlement.

The name of Port Discovery was given by Vancouver. It is eight
miles long, two miles in average width, and its points, which terminate
in low sandy projections, interlock each other. The shores are sup-
plied with large quantities of shell-fish. Protection Island covers it
completely to the north, and would render it easily defensive against
the most formidable attack. The only objection to it as a harbour is
that already spoken of, the great depth of the water, which in the
middle is no where less than forty or fifty fathoms, and is often as
much as sixteen fathoms close to the shore.

The Indians whom we found dwelling here are of the Clalam tribe.
They occupy a few miserable lodges on one of the points, and are a
most filthy race, so much so indeed that to enter their lodges is abso-
lutely disgusting. They are no more than a few rudely-cut slabs,
covered in part by coarse mats.

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 299

There is no permanent settlement of Indians at Port Discovery, and
during our stay \ve had visitors from the various neighbouring tribes.
The two sexes of all who visited us were dressed almost alike, and can
hardly be distinguished in external appearance from each other: both
wear their hair long, and both are equally dirty. All the adults have
their heads much flattened, which appears to be performed as it is
among the more southern tribes, by compressing the frontal and occi-
pital bones by several thicknesses of bark, until they become set, and
the head takes a permanent shape.

Their children seem to give them but little trouble : in their infancy
they are tied to a piece of bark, which is hung to a tree or pole, where
it is kept in motion by a string fastened to the toe of the mother, as is
represented in the wood-cut at the end of the chapter.

These Indians appear to have but few of the comforts, and barely
the necessaries of life. They live principally on fish, shell-fish, the
cammass-root, and potatoes. They have muskets and bows and
arrows : the bows are short and small, but possess great strength, and
are made of yew : their arrows are pointed with ii*on or bone.

They also possess large sheath-knives, which they procure from the
Hudson Bay Company, in exchange for furs, and from the same
source they obtain blankets. For these articles the Company has a
regular tarift'of prices, which however, is not adhered to when a Boston
ship arrives. The natives are sufficiently alive to the advantages
they derive from competition, and boasted that in such cases they
frequently obtained four or five blankets for articles that usually bring
them only one. It was the hope of so advantageous a traffic that
caused so much satisfaction when we arrived, and the failure of this
hope produced, as we have seen, no little disappointment.

They are not, however, wholly dependent on this trade for their
clothing, for some of the tribes manufacture a sort of blanket from
dogs' hair, which is substantially woven.

During our stay at Port Discovery, they supplied us plentifully with
venison, ducks, geese, salmon, a large species of cod, flounders, her-
rings, and crabs. They also brought shell-fish, among which were
the common clam, (the quahog of the Eastern States,) mussels, and
small oysters.

Besides the ornaments we saw among our first visiters, some wam-
pum-belts and strings of dentalium-shells were observed. They have
a great passion for carved pipes, for which they cultivate small quan-
tities of a species of tobacco. They also smoke the leaves of the
dwarf Arbutus mixed with their tobacco : these are powerful astrin
gents, and are also frequently chewed.

300 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

The colour of the younger natives is almost white, so much so as to
show the blush on the cheek ; and some of the women would with
difficulty be distinguished in colour from those of European race.
The women are to be seen weaving mats, after the Chinese fashion, of
bullrushes (Scirpus lacustris), which they place side by side and fasten
together at intervals. These are used, as has been stated, to cover the
framework of their lodges.

Instead of the silver tube which has been spoken of, the women
have a white bone stuck through the cartilage of their noses. This
is kept bright, and may be said to be the only clean thing about their
persons. The whole burden of domestic occupation is thrown upon
them, for the men are to be seen lounging about the whole day in the
sun, and spend their nights in gambling.

The canoes of this region differ from any thing we had seen on the
voyage. They are made from a single trunk, and have a shape that
may be considered elegant, and which is preserved from change by
stretching or warping by means of thwarts. The sides are exceed-
ingly thin, seldom exceeding three-fourths of an inch, and they are
preserved with great care, being never suffered to lie exposed to the
sun, for fear of rents and cracks. When these do occur, the canoe is
mended in a very ingenious manner ; holes are made in the sides,
through which withes are passed and pegged in such a way that the
strain will draw it tighter; the withe is then crossed, and the end
secured in the same manner. When the tying is finished, the whole
is pitched with the gum of the pine. This is neatly done, and answers
the purpose well.

CANOE OF OREGON INDIANS.

Although the natives we saw at Port Discovery appeared to be a
peaceable race, the neighbouring tribes are frequently at war, and
spoke of scalping, and other exploits, as practised by our own abori-
gines.

Apprehensive that difficulties similar to those we met with in the
Feejee Group might, possibly occur with these Indians, I deemed it
expedient to issue the following order.

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 301

GENERAL ORDER.

The undersigned informs the officers and crews under his command,
that the duties upon which they are about to enter will necessarily
bring them in contact at times with the savage and treacherous in-
habitants of this coast; and he therefore feels it his duty to enjoin
upon them the necessity of unceasing caution, and a restrictive and
mild system in all their intercourse with them.

In my General Order of July 13th, 1839, my views are expressed
fully respecting our intercourse with savages, and I expect that the
injunctions therein contained will be strictly regarded.

With a knowledge that many of the misfortunes that have befallen
previous voyagers on this coast, have arisen from an unrestrained and
unguarded intercourse with the natives, he deems it important to order
officers in charge of boats, and those having men under their direc-
tion, to make it their especial duty to govern them so as to avoid any
disputes or maltreatment of the Indians, and that force is never to be
resorted to but in cases of self-defence.

No officer or man will be allowed to visit the shore without arms ;
and boats' crews, when surveying or on other duty, will be furnished
•with such as are necessary for their protection.

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vincennes,

May 1st, 1840.

We remained at Port Discovery until 6th May, during which time
we were employed in surveying the harbour and exploring the country.
Our botanists had a large and interesting field opened to them, and
there are few places where the variety and beauty of the flora are so
great as they are here. Dodecatheon, Viola, Trifolium, Leptosiphon,
Scilla (the cammass of the natives), Collinsia, Claytonia, Stellaria, &c.,
vied with each other in beauty, and were in such profusion, as to excite
both admiration and astonishment. According to Mr. Brackenridge,
the soil on which the plants grow consists of a light-brown loam, but
the general character of the soil around Port Discovery is a thin,
black, vegetable mould, with a substratum of sand and gravel.

The trees grow so closely that in some places the woods are almost
impenetrable. The timber consists principally of pine, fir, and spruce.
Of the latter there are two species, one of which resembles the hem
lock-spruce of the United States : it has a very tall growth, and puts
out but few, and those small, lateral branches. Some maple-trees

2A

302 NISQ^ALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

grow in the open grounds and on the banks, but they are too small to
be of any service to the settler. Several trees which we cut down to
make spars for the Vincennes, proved, although healthy in appearance
before they were felled, to be more or less defective : the wood was
sound and compact on one side only, while on the other it was open-
grained and fibrous.

Several of the officers made excursions into the woods after game.
In these they found much difficulty, in consequence of the quantity of
fallen trees, that lay crossing each other in every direction. No large
game, however, was seen. Of birds, crows, robins, &c., were in
abundance; and some beautiful specimens of land-shells (Helices)
were obtained.

Soon after our arrival at Port Discovery, I despatched an Indian
with a letter to the fort of the Hudson Bay Company at Nisqually, at
the upper end of Puget Sound, to request that a pilot might be sent
me. My interview with the native whom I employed for this purpose
was amusing. He appeared of a gay and lively disposition : the first
thing he did, when brought into the cabin, was to show me a cross
and repeat his ave, which he did with great readiness and apparent
devotion ; but he burst into loud laughter as soon as he had finished
repeating it. He and I made many efforts to understand each other,
but without much success, except so far as the transmission of the
letter to Fort Nisqually, and the reward he was to receive on his
return.

In the excursions of the officers, several burial-places were met with.
The corpses are not interred ; but are wrapped in mats and placed
upon the ground in a sitting posture, and surrounded with stakes and
pieces of plank to protect them from the weather and wild beasts.

On the 5th of May, the officers were all engaged in surveying,
while I occupied one of the points as a station, where I made astrono-
mical and magnetic observations. I found the latitude 48° 02' 58" N.;
the longitude 123° 02' 07-5" W.; the variation was 20° 40' E.

The temperature in the shade, was 55°.

On the 6th of May, finding that the messenger whom I had
despatched to Fort Nisqually did not return, I determined to proceed
towards that place without further delay. We therefore got under
way at half-past ten, and beat out of Port Discovery : we then stood
towards Point Wilson (of Vancouver), which forms one side of the
entrance into Admiralty Inlet. Turning the point, we entered the inlet,
and soon anchored in Port Townsend, on its northern side, in ten
fathoms water.

Port Townsend is a fine sheet of water, three miles and a quarter

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 3Q3

in length, by one mile and three quarters in width. Opposite to our
anchorage is an extensive table-land, free from wood, and which would
afford a good site for a town.

The bay is free from dangers and is well protected from the
quarters whence stormy winds blow. It has anchorage of a conve-
nient depth ; and there is abundance of fresh water to be had.

In the afternoon, we landed and examined the table-land. The next
day we were engaged in surveying the bay, which we commenced at
an early hour. Our base was measured on a straight and level beach,
nearly a mile in length, upon the north shore. At the extreme west
end of the bay, we found a lodge or two of Indians. In each of these,
there were apparently three or four families ; and they had a patch of
potatoes growing.

The soil in this place is a light sandy loam, and appears to be very
productive : it was covered with wild flowers, and strawberry plants
in blossom.

From this point, Mount Baker is distinctly seen to the northeast,
and forms a fine sight when its conical peak is illuminated by the
setting sun.

On the 7th, we had completed the survey; but the wind coming
up from the southward and eastward, which was contrary to our
intended course, we determined to remain. At noon, there was a
favourable change, when both vessels moved up about eight miles, and
anchored in what I called Port Lawrence. This is just at the entrance
of Hood's Canal, and gave us a view both of it and Admiralty Inlet.
The weather was unpleasant, and the only duty that could be performed
was that of dredging. Several new and interesting specimens were
thus taken. The natives brought us fish and venison in plenty, besides
geese and ducks.

On the morning of the 8th, we made the survey of Port Lawrence,
beginning at daylight. This being completed, I took advantage of the
tide making to get under way with a fresh breeze, and passed with
both vessels as far as a small cove on the west side of the inlet opposite
to the south end of Whidby's Island. Here we anchored before sunset,
and I named it Pilot's Cove, from the circumstance of having been
here joined by the first officer of the Hudson Bay Company's steamer,
commanded by Captain M'Niel, who on hearing of our arrival, kindly
sent him down to pilot up the ship.

We were under way soon after daylight, taking advantage of the
tide, and continued beating as long as it lasted. This was about two
hours, by which time we reached another small cove. This was
named Apple-tree Cove, from the numbers of that tree which were in

304 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

blossom around its shores. This cove answers well all the purposes
of a temporary anchorage. Before the tide began to make in our
favour, we had finished the survey of the cove. We again sailed, and
at dark anchored under the west shore, near a fine bay ; which the
next day was surveyed, and named Port Madison. This is an excellent
harbour, affording every possible convenience for shipping.

The scenery of this portion of Admiralty Inlet resembles strongly
parts of the Hudson river, particularly those about Poughkeepsie and
above that place. The distant highlands, though much more lofty,
reminded us of the Kaatskills. There were but few lodges of Indians
seen on our way up ; and the whole line of shore has the appearance
of never having been disturbed by man.

The wind proved fair the same afternoon, and we passed up the
inlet, taking the passage to the right of Vashon's Island, and finally,
towards evening, anchored just below the narrows leading into Puget
Sound, within a few yards of the shore and under a high perpendicular
bank, in sixteen fathoms.

The shores of all these inlets and bays are remarkably bold ; so
much so, that in many places a ship's sides would strike the shore
before the keel would touch the ground.

On the llth of May, the morning proved calm, of which I took
advantage to survey this part of the sound, which we accomplished
before the afternoon, when the tide served us. At 3 p. M. we again
weighed our anchors, but had great difficulty in getting beyond the
reach of the eddy winds occasioned by the high banks. The scenery
about this pass becomes very fine : on all sides are high projecting
bluffs of sandstone, rising almost perpendicularly from the water, with
a great variety of shrubs along their base. The tide, which runs
through the narrows with great velocity, causes many eddies and
whirlpools, through which a ship is carried with extraordinary
rapidity, while the danger seems to be imminent. The Porpoise
succeeded in entering the narrows first, and in a few minutes was lost
sight of; the Vincennes entered, and seemed at first to be hurrying to
destruction, with her sails quite aback. We were carried onward
wholly by the force of the tide, and had backed and filled only once
before we found ourselves in as spacious a sound as the one we had
just left. This narrow pass seems as if intended by its natural faci-
lities to afford every means for its perfect defence.

Twelve miles more brought us to the anchorage off Nisqually,
where both vessels dropped their anchors about eight o'clock. Here
we found an English steamer undergoing repairs. Soon after we
anchored, I had the pleasure of a visit from Mr. Anderson, who is in

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 305

charge of the fort, and Captain M'Neil. 'They gave me a warm
welcome, and offered every assistance in their power to aid me in my
operations.

Nothing can exceed the beauty of these waters, and their safety :
not a shoal exists within the Straits of Juan de Fuca, Admiralty Inlet,
Puget Sound, or Hood's Canal, that can in any way interrupt their
navigation by a seventy-four gun ship. I venture nothing in saying,
there is no country in the world that possesses waters equal to these.

The anchorage off Nisqually is very contracted, in consequence of
the rapid shelving of the bank, that soon drops off into deep water.
The shore rises abruptly, to a height of about two hundred feet, and
on the top of the ascent is an extended plain, covered with pine, oak,
and ash trees, scattered here and there so as to form a park -like scene.
The hill-side is mounted by a well-constructed road, of easy ascent.
From the summit of the road the view is beautiful, over the sound and
its many islands, with Mount Olympus covered with snow for a back-
ground. Fort Nisqually, with its out-buildings and enclosure, stands
back about half a mile from the edge of the table-land.

In the morning I found that the ship lay opposite to a small run of
water, and finding the situation an agreeable one, the Vincennes was
safely moored there, and the boats hoisted out.

Having arranged my plans, I proceeded forthwith to put so much
of them as lay within my own means into execution : the Porpoise and
boats were prepared for surveying, and the land parties organized.
Other parts of my proposed plans depended on the co-operation of the
Peacock. My instructions, for this purpose, to Captain Hudson had
been prepared previous to our arrival. I had, also, been informed that
the Peacock and Flying-Fish had reached the Columbia river in safety ;
and this news, although it turned out to be untrue, was for the moment
a source of congratulation.

The Porpoise, with two of the Vincennes' boats, under Lieutenant-
Commandant Ringgold, were directed to take up the survey of Admi-
ralty Inlet. The launch, first, cutter and two boats of the Vincennes
were placed under the command of Lieutenant Case, to survey
Hood's Canal.* The land party intended to explore the interior, was
placed under the command of Lieutenant Johnson of the Porpoise.
With him were associated Dr. Pickering, Mr. T. W. Waldron of the
Porpoise, Mr. Brackenridge, Sergeant Stearns, and two men. Eighty
days were allowed for the operations of this party, which it was in-
tended should cross the Cascade range of mountains, towards the

* For orders, sec Appendix XI
VOL. IV. 2A2 39

306 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

Columbia, proceed thence to Fort Colville, thence south to Lapwai,
the mission station on the Kooskooskee river, thence to Wallawalla,
and returning by the way of the Yakima river, repass the mountains
to Nisqually. — (The orders are given in Appendix XII.)

The other land party consisted of Messrs. Drayton and Waldron of
the Vincennes, myself, and two servants. Our intended route lay
across the country to the Columbia river. First, I proposed to visit
Astoria, then Fort Vancouver, and the Willamette settlement, and to
proceed up the river as far as Wallawalla. From Astoria I proposed
to send parties from the Peacock into the interior, and to set on foot
the survey of the Columbia river, by means of her boats.

The establishment of an observatory also claimed my attention : a
suitable site was found on the top of the hill, within hail of the ship.
Here the instruments and clocks were landed, and put up in a small
clearing, whence the trees had been cut in order to supply the steamer
with fuel.

All these preparations occupied us until the 15th, when the brig was
reported as ready, and sailed the same day. During the above interval
I had the pleasure of visits from Dr. Richmond and Mr. Wilson, of the
Methodist Mission, stationed at this place.

In returning the visits of Mr. Anderson and Captain M'Niel, I had
an opportunity of seeing the so-called fort. It is constructed of pickets,
enclosing a space about two hundred feet square, with four corner
bastions. Within this enclosure are the agents' stores, and about half
a dozen houses, built of logs, and roofed with bark. This fort was con-
sidered quite large when it was first established, but since it has become
an agricultural post as well as a trading one, it is found to be too
small. Its locality is also ill chosen, on account of the difficulty of
obtaining water, which has to be brought from a distance of nearly a
mile. I was informed that there was now little necessity for any sort
of protection against the Indians, who are but few in number, and very
peaceably disposed.

Mr. Anderson and Captain M'Niel both reside in the fort with their
families : both are married to half-breeds, and have several fine children.
After spending some time in conversing about my plans, Mr. Anderson
was kind enough to show me his garden, which is in an enclosure just
without the pickets. Here I saw peas a foot high, strawberries and
gooseberries in full bloom, and some of the former nearly ripe, with
salad that had gone to seed, three feet high, very large and thrifty.

Near by were to be seen fine fields of grain, large barns and sheep-
folds, agricultural implements, and workmen with cattle engaged in the
various employments of husbandry.

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 307

I also visited Dr. Richmond, who had been settled here for some
months, and occupies a nice log house, built on the borders of one of
the beautiful prairies. Here I found Mrs. Richmond and Mrs. Wilson,
with four fine, rosy, and fat children, whose appearance spoke volumes
for the health of the climate. This mission has but recently been
established : so far as respects its prospects, they are not very flattering.
I shall have occasion hereafter to allude to the operations of the
missions, and shall therefore defer any farther remarks at present. The
location of the mission-house, on the borders of an extensive and beau-
tiful prairie, can scarcely be surpassed, and would be admirably
adapted for a large settlement, if the soil was in any respect equal to
its appearance. This is composed of a light-brown earth, intermixed
with a large proportion of gravel and stones : it requires an abundance
of rain to bring any crop to perfection, and this rarely falls during the
summer months. At the season when we arrived, nothing could be
more beautiful, or to appearance more luxuriant than the plains, which
were covered with flowers of every colour and kind : among these were
to be seen Ranunculus, Scilla, Lupines, Collinsia, and Balsa moriza (a
small sunflower peculiar to Oregon) ; but the soil is quite thin, and
barely sufficient for these in many places. The best land occurs where
the prairies are intersected or broken by belts of woods, that have a
dense undergrowth, consisting of Hazel, Spirrea, Cornus, and Prunus.
On the borders of these belts are scattered oaks and some ash, arbutus,
birch, and poplars, and in some places the yew is to be found ; but the
predominant character of the vegetation is of the tribe of Coniferas,
which seem to occupy large ranges of the country, and among which
the cedar is found to attain a large size.

In connexion with the Company's establishment at Nisqually, they
have a large dairy, several hundred head of cattle, and among them
seventy milch cows, which yield a large supply of butter and cheese :
they have also large crops of wheat, peas, and oats, and were preparing
the ground for potatoes. These operations are conducted by a farmer
and dairyman, brought from England expressly to superintend these
affairs. A few Indians are engaged in attending the flocks, and the
Company's servants are almost exclusively employed as labourers.

I have mentioned these agricultural establishments as connected
with the Hudson Bay Company, and they are in reality so ; but as
their charter precludes their engaging in these operations, another
company has been organized, under the title of the "Puget Sound
Company," the shares of which are held by the officers, agents, and
servants of the Hudson Bay Company, and its officers are exclusively
chosen from among them. Dr. M'Laughlin, for instance, chief officer

308 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

and governor of Fort Vancouver, on the part of the Hudson Bay
Company, is also a director of the Puget Sound Company, and has
the entire management of its concerns : his salary is five hundred
pounds.

The capital of the Puget Sound Company is five hundred thousand
pounds, divided into shares of one hundred pounds each: only two
hundred thousand pounds of this have been paid in. The operations
of this Company are in consequence large: they began by making
large importations of stock from California, and some of the best
breeds of cattle from England ; they have also entered into farming
on an extensive scale, using as labourers the servants of the Hudson
Bay Company, who are bound by their contracts to do all manner of
service that may be required of them, even to the bearing of arms.

This Company have the supplying of all the forts and stations of the
Hudson Bay Company on the west side of the American continent,
and also furnish the Russian ports with grain, butter, and cheese : of
the former article the Russians take about fifteen thousand bushels. It
is also their intention, when they shall have succeeded in breeding a
sufficient stock of cattle and sheep, to export hides, horns, tallow, and
wool, to England, in the return ships, which now go home compara-
tively empty, as the furs occupy only a small portion of the capacity
of the ship. In this way it may readily be perceived that they will be
enabled to drive a profitable trade, particularly when it is considered
how little care the cattle require in this territory, in consequence of the
grass and natural hay which the soil affords at all seasons. It is the
prospect of the advantageous results to be derived from these operations,
that has induced the Hudson Bay Company to change their trading
establishments into large agricultural ones. For some years previous
to our arrival, they had not been able to meet their own wants, and at

the same time fulfil their contracts with the Russians. They were

*\

therefore obliged to purchase from the settlers in the territory, aVwell
as send to California, to procure the requisite quantity of agricultural
products. A demand was consequently created for wheat, and all
that could be raised in the Willamette settlements was bought for six
shillings (seventy-five cents) a bushel, and paid for in drafts on their
stores in goods, at fifty per cent, advance on the first London cost.
This gave an encouragement to the small farmers, that was fated to
meet with grievous disappointment the next season ; for the Company
was able not only to meet their engagements, and their own wants,
but had, besides, a surplus. The prices consequently would be merely
nominal, unless raised by the influx of new settlers. Whether the
latter cause had any effect in creating a market, I know not ; but I

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 3Q9

understand that in 1842 some of the settlers fed their horses upon their
finest wheat.

The scenery around Nisqually is very much enhanced in beauty by
the splendid appearance of Mount Rainier, which lies nearly east of it ;
and from some of the open prairies there are three of these magnificent
snowy peaks in sight. They are all nearly regular cones, with cleft
tops, as though they had a terminal crater on their summit. I was
exceedingly anxious to make the ascent of one of these, Mount Hood;
but owing to the non-arrival and loss of the Peacock, I found it impos-
sible to do so.

On the 13th May, Mr. Anderson was kind enough to present me
with two bullocks for the crews, and a quantity of vegetables, for
which we felt ourselves much indebted. A large supply of milk was
also sent to us daily from the dairy, and many other little kindnesses
and attentions were manifested.

To return Captain M'Niel's visit, I went on board the steamer,
which is called the Beaver. She is of one hundred and twenty tons
burden, and fitted with a low-pressure engine, similar to those in use
in the English boats. She was now very much out of repair, having
been some years on this station. Her employment was to ply between
the northern posts with supplies, and bring back the returns of the
season's trade ; at the same time trading at the different points with
the Indians. Captain M'Niel is a native of Boston, and was exten-
sively engaged in the northwest trade. He proved to be a serious
competitor with the Hudson Bay Company in their business, and was
in consequence bought off. He is now a trader in the Company's
service, owning stock, and receiving a share of the dividends ; to
qualify him for which, it became necessary for him to become a natu-
ralized British subject.

The steamer is ill adapted to the services on which she is employed,
for she consumes a large quantity of fuel, and has not sufficient capa-
city to carry as much as is necessary for her entire voyage. She is
therefore obliged to stop at intermediate places to obtain a supply of
wood, which must be cut by her own crew. She is fitted with a
suitable armament, barricades, and boarding-nettings, which are
deemed very essential on the northern coast, where the savage tribes
are both hostile and numerous.

On the 17th, the boats left the ship under Lieutenant Case, Messrs.
Totten, Colvocoressis, and May. I had by this time succeeded in
establishing the observatory, and had ordered a log house to be built
to perform the pendulum experiments, and another for the purposes
of drawing, &c. These I purposed to use on my return from the

310 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

Columbia river trip. Lieutenant Carr, with Lieutenant Budd and Mr.
Eld, were left in charge of the duty connected with the observatory,
as well as of the ship.

Knowing how much time is lost on boat expeditions by the use of
grog, and the accidents that are liable to occur when a strict watch
cannot be kept over it, I decided not to send any spirits with the
party. I am fully persuaded myself, that that portion of the ration is
unnecessary ; but in order not to deprive any of the sailors of it who
might deem it essential, Ihad the boats' crews called aft, and found
that nearly all were in the regular habit of drawing their grog. I
then offered to any who might wish to continue the use of that part
of their ration, the option of remaining with the ship, and having their
places in the boats supplied by others. There was no hesitation on
the part of any of them : all wished to go ; and all were willing to
give up their spirit ration. I take this occasion to say, that all the
most laborious and exposed duty of the Expedition, was performed
without the spirit ration, and I am well satisfied that it may be dis-
pensed with without injury to any one, and indeed greatly to the
benefit of the naval service.*

The land expedition, under Lieutenant Johnson, was finally ready
Few can imagine the chafferings, delays, and vexations, attendant
upon the equipment of a land party in this region: the buying of
horses from the Indians ; the non-arrival of guides ; the various equip-
ments necessary for loading the horses, securing the loads to prevent
injury to the horses' backs, and the loss of them, all consume much
time, and need continual foresight. Through all these difficulties and
perplexities, which were of a kind that most tries the patience, Lieu-
tenant Johnson struggled. An Indian is not slow in perceiving your
wants, and views the dilemmas in which you may be placed with a
becoming sang-froid. Mr. Anderson's kindness had obviated many of
these obstacles ; but it was impossible to proceed without the aid of
the Indians, who were always prone to recede from their bargains,
under a feeling that they had not received enough. After the bargain
was completed, and the price agreed upon, under the form of " pot-
latch," or "gift," the equivalent was always to be again treated for,
and thus the price of the article or service was often very much en-
hanced. In dealing with these Indians, it was always necessary to
feign a great indifference of manner, in order to obtain the article,
and also in closing the bargain after the preliminaries are settled.

* Since our return, Congress has reduced the spirit ration one-half: this is a good step,
but its total abolishment would be a better one.

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 31]

They readily close when they think their customers indifferent, for
fear of a competitor among themselves, and are not in the habit of
forming a combination, as they show little or no confidence in each
other, and are rather disposed to rivalry. As far as our observations
went, the chiefs have little authority among them.

Having seen the other parties all off, or ready to start, our party for
the Columbia river also set out. It was a strange cavalcade, for most
of us were but sorry horsemen, and we had every variety of accoutre-
ments, from the saddle and bridle to the bare back and halter. We
were eight in number: Messrs. Drayton, Waldron, and myself, two
servants, two Indians, and a Canadian guide, with four pack-horses.
All the horses and the guide were kindly furnished us by the gentle-
men at the fort, to carry us as far as Cowlitz Farms, about sixty miles
distant, where we intended taking canoes.

Our Indians, though partially clothed in worn-out European cloth-
ing, still showed their free and easy carriage on horseback : the few
ribands and cock's feathers that were stuck in their caps gave them
a flaunting kind of air; and they manifested a species of self-esteem
that was not unpleasing, and betokened an independence and want of
care, in good keeping with their mode of life. These savages should
never be seen but on horseback, in which position they are really men,
and inspire a certain degree of respect. When dismounted, all these
qualities vanish, and the Indian becomes the lazy, lounging creature,
insensible to any excitement but his low gambling propensities. They
have a peculiar knack in managing their horses, and this, too, without
any apparent means of controlling them, for their only bridle is a
single cord fastened to the lower jaw; with this they contrive to
govern the most refractory animals, without the aid of whip or spur,
and will urge to speed an animal that has become all but lifeless under
our guidance. They practise great cruelty to their horses, and pay
no regard whatever to the state of their backs. In travelling in this
country, all scruples and feelings in respect to sore backs, jaded,
lamed, or half-starved horses, must be laid aside ; and my advice is,
keep away from your horses until they are saddled, and leave this to
your guides who own them.

The direction of our route was nearly south over the plain, passing
occasionally a pretty lawn, and groves of oak and ash trees. At the
distance of nine miles we reached the river Nisqually, whose channel
is sunk three hundred feet below the plain, between almost perpen-
dicular banks. The ravine is about half a mile wide, and is filled with
a large growth of timber, which is occasionally uprooted by the torrents
that pass down, on the melting of the snows of the mountains. The

312 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

usual bed of the stream is about one hundred yards wide, with a rapid
current : its course in this place was north-northwest, and its average
depth at the ford about three feet. We again ascended a similar bank
on the opposite side to the plain. Our route then continued through
most beautiful park scenery, with the prairie now and then opening to
view, in which many magnificent pines grew detached. The prairie
was covered with a profusion of flowers.

After crossing Shute's river, in all respects similar to the Nisqually,
we encamped, just before night, having travelled about twenty-two
miles. Our tents were pitched, and fires made ; but on examining our
alforcas,* we were reminded that we were but novices in such travel-
ling, for we found that all our small stores had been destroyed in fording
the streams, the sugar being turned into syrup, &c. This was a mishap
over which we had a hearty laugh ; it rendered the part that was saved
doubly precious, and made us enjoy our evening meal. After our tents
were pitched, one of our servants discovered a snake in the tent, which
caused him much alarm ; but such a circumstance is considered so
common, that it excites but little or no surprise in those who have
travelled in Oregon. The abundance of such reptiles may be con-
sidered one of the characteristics of the country, and if one is not bitten
before the end of a journey, he may think himself fortunate. In the
lower country, however, there are few snakes that are venomous, and
the rattlesnake is rarely seen, in consequence of the wetness of the soil
and dampness of the climate : but in the middle section, where it is dry,
they are to be found in great numbers.

Being somewhat fatigued, we all slept soundly. The guide and
Indians, according to the custom of the country, after rolling themselves
in their blankets, lay down near the fire (which continued to burn
brightly all night) without any shelter. In the morning we found by
the tracks that elk and deer had been near us, probably attracted by
the fire. Our horses having been hobbled, were easily procured: they
had not strayed, as the grass around the tents was of the most nutritious
kind.

In the morning, when we resumed our journey, the park scenery
increased in beauty, and it was almost impossible to realize that we
were in a savage and wild country, and that nature, not art, had per-
fected the landscape. Beautiful lakes, with greensward growing to the
water edge, with deer feeding fearlessly on their margin, and every
tint of flower, many of which were not new to our gardens at home,
strewn in profusion around ; we could hardly, in galloping along, but

" A kind of saddle-bag.

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

313

expect to see some beautiful mansion, as a fit accompaniment to such
scenery.

We soon reached the Bute Prairies, which are extensive, and covered
with tumuli or small mounds, at regular distances asunder. As far as
I could learn, there is no tradition among the natives relative to them.
They are conical mounds, thirty feet in diameter, about six to seven
feet high above the level, and many thousands in number. Being
anxious to ascertain if they contained any relics, I subsequently visited
these prairies, and opened three of the mounds, but nothing was found
in them but a pavement of round stones.

After a ride of twelve miles, we reached Chickeeles river, which
empties itself into Gray's Harbour, about forty miles north of the
Columbia. We found the stream about two hundred yards wide in
this place, and running in a southwest direction. On its banks there
were a few lodges, containing about twenty Indians of the Nisqually
tribe, who had come here to make preparations for the salmon-fishery,
then about to commence, (20th May.) They were a miserable-looking
set, barely covered with pieces of dirty blankets and skins.

Subsequently, on my return, I made a sketch of this place, after the
salmon-fishery had been established, which is represented in the vignette.

We stopped here for two hours, to rest our horses. Hanging around

SALMON FISHERY ON CHICKEELES RIVER.

their lodges were hundreds of lamprey eels, from a foot to eighteen
inches long, and about an inch in diameter. We were told that these,

VOL. IV. 2B 40

314 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

fish are caught in great quantities, and dried for food ; they are also used
for candles or torches ; for, being very full of oil, they burn brightly.

These Indians had a quantity of the cammass-root, which they had
stored in baskets. It is a kind of sweet squills, and about the size of a
small onion. It is extremely abundant on the open prairies, and par-
ticularly on those which are overflowed by the small streams.

After leaving these lodges, a few yards beyond the soil changed
from gravel to a rich unctuous clay. We crossed a branch of the
Chickeeles, and passed over some high hills, which we found exceed-
ingly difficult to accomplish, being in places quite miry, in which our
pack-horses not unfrequently were stuck fast: few roads in any country
could be worse.

The woods and underbrush now became so thick that it was with
difficulty that a horse and his rider could pass ; for, whilst the former
was extricating his legs from the mud-holes, the latter required all his
attention and exertions to prevent himself from being strangled or
dragged from his horse by the branches. This was not all : fallen
trees were to be jumped or hobbled over as we best could, which was
very exhausting to the patience. Our friends at Nisqually had told
us we should find this part of the road good, yet we found it barely
passable. I would, however, advise all who travel this road to prepare
for a bad one. But what increased the discomfort of the road to
me, was the news I received by an Indian messenger, with letters an-
nouncing to me that the Peacock had not yet arrived.

We finally succeeded in reaching the top of the hill, which is about
fifteen hundred feet high, by a zigzag path, literally climbed by steps
which had been made by the horses' feet, and without which it would
be impossible to mount it in the direction we did, the clay is so
slippery.

After reaching the crest of this ridge, we were amply repaid for our
labour by one of the most charming views I saw in Oregon, extend-
ing to a distance over the luxuriant country, while at our feet lay one
of the beautiful prairies, bedecked in every hue of the rainbow, with
the Chickeeles winding through it. We descended, and passed over
the prairie to some Indian lodges, whose inhabitants were squalid and
dirty as usual ; and as an evidence of their want of natural feeling,
near by lay one of their horses, with one of his fore-legs broke short
and just hanging by the skin. To the question, why they did not kill
the horse, they gave no answer, but looked at the interpreter with
apparent contempt and listlessness. Desirous of avoiding the lodges,
with their inmates and vermin, we proceeded about a mile beyond
them, and encamped on the edge of a fine forest of pines.

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 315

Notwithstanding a hard rain fell during the night, we passed it very
comfortably. The Indians supplied us with some fresh salmon, which
they had already begun to take in the rivers that were in sight from
our encampment. They reported that the river was navigable for
canoes, though occasional obstructions were met with from fallen
timber.

Mr. Dray ton found here some beautiful pieces of cornelian, of large
size and bright red colour.

The morning proved beautiful, and one of the finest days succeeded
that I ever remember to have seen. Our route lay through alternate
woods and prairies, the former composed of large pines and cedars.
Several considerable streams of water were passed, whose banks were
not so high as those before met with ; the latter covered with straw-
berries, so tempting as to induce us to dismount and feast upon them,
and many plants that excited a feeling of interest, and reminded us of
home : among the number was the red honeysuckle (Caprifolium),
which was in full bloom. After passing extensive cammass plains,
we reached the Company's farm on the Cowlitz, which occupies an
extensive prairie on the banks of that river.

They have here six or seven hundred acres enclosed, and under
cultivation, with several large granaries, a large farm-house, and
numerous out-buildings to accommodate the dairy, workmen, cattle,
&c. The grounds appear well prepared, and were covered with a
luxuriant crop of wheat. At the farther end of the prairie was to be
seen a settlement, with its orchards, &c., and between the trees, the
chapel and parsonage of the Catholic Mission gave an air of civiliza-
tion to the whole. The degree of progress resembled that of a settle-
ment of several years' standing in our Western States, with the
exception, however, of the remains of the conquered forest ; for here
the ground is ready for the plough, and nature seems as it were to
invite the husbandman to his labours.

We were kindly received by Mr. Forrest, the superintendent, who
quickly made arrangements for canoes to carry us down the Cowlitz
and Columbia river to Astoria, or Fort George. He also provided us
with an excellent repast, and pressed us to remain over night, which
we would gladly have done, had I not found that it would be impos-
sible for us to reach Astoria the next day if we did so.

At this farm the Company have a large dairy, and are about erect-
ing a saw and grist mill. The superintendent's dwelling is large, and
built of well-hewn logs; with the workmen's houses, &c., it forms
quite a village.

Large numbers of cattle were being brought in for the night, which

316 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

is a very necessary precaution in Oregon, in consequence of the
numerous wolves that are prowling about ; in some places it becomes
necessary for the keeper to protect his beasts even in the daytime.
The cattle, at times, suffer from drought, in which case the Indians
are sent across the river to cut fodder for them, in order to avoid
sending the cattle to the cammass plains, where they would be subject
to the loss of all their young.

The farm at the Cowlitz has no sort of defences about it, proving,
as far as the Indians are concerned, that there is no danger of being
molested : indeed their numbers here are too small to enable them to
attempt any aggression, and their dependence on the Company, for
both food and clothing, too complete to allow them to quarrel, except
among themselves ; and of such disputes the agent of the Company
takes no sort of notice. The Indians belong to the Klackatack tribe,
though they have obtained the general name of the Cowlitz Indians.
In a few years they will have passed away, and even now, I was in-
formed, there are but three Indian women remaining in the tribe. The
mortality that has attacked them of late has made sad .ravages ; for
only a few years since they numbered upwards of a hundred, while
they are now said to be less than thirty. The quantity of land
actually under cultivation here is six hundred acres, most of which is
in wheat. Mr. Forrest told me that the first year it had produced ten
bushels per acre, but the present one it was thought the yield would be
double.*

Around the superintendent's house is a kitchen-garden, in which all
the usual horticultural plants of the United States were growing luxu-
riantly; the climate was thought to be particularly well adapted to
them.

Mr. Forrest informed me that the weather was never actually cold,
nor is the winter long. Snows seldom last more than a day or two ;
fires, however, are necessary during most months of the year. The
housing of cattle is resorted to partially ; but little or no provision is
made for their winter sustenance, as the grass is fit for food the whole
year round.

The geographical situation of the Cowlitz Farm is in latitude 46°
30' N., longitude 123° W.

The guide that Mr. Forrest had sent for was one Simon Plumondon,
whom I engaged to carry us to Astoria. He proved to have been the
cockswain of General Cass's canoe, when on his trip to the lakes in the

• The crop of 1841, I was told, at the end of the season, produced seven thousand
bushels.

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 317

Northwest Territory ; and a more useful person I have seldom met
with, or one that could be so well depended on. He had been for
several years in this territory, having left the Company's service,
married an Indian wife, and was now living on a farm of about fifty
acres, at the Cowlitz, independent and contented. I have seldom seen
so pretty a woman as his wife, or a more cheerful and good house-
wife ; before her marriage she was the belle of the country, and cele-
brated for her feats of horsemanship.

Plumondon engaged several of the young Indians to accompany
him, and with two canoes we were all accommodated. The price for
each Indian was to be a check shirt.

During our short stay at Cowlitz, several Indian women brought in
pieces of buckskin for sale, which they deem a necessary part of the
equipment of a traveller. From them I learned the manner in which
they prepare it, which is as follows. Immediately after the animal is
killed, the skin, after having all the hair scraped off, is stretched tight
on a frame ; it is there left until it becomes as dry as parchment, when
it is rubbed over with the brains of the animal, which impart oil to it »
it is then steeped in warm water, after which it is dried in the smoke,
two women stretching it all the time it is drying; it is then again wet
and wound tightly round a tree, from which it is again taken, smoked,
and drawn by women as before ; when nearly dry, it is rubbed with
the hands as in washing, until it is soft and pliable ; and then it is
ready for use.

Mr. Forrest stated to me that he had put a suit on, twenty-four
hours after the animal had been running in the forest. I am well
satisfied that no kind of apparel is so well suited as this to the life
of an Indian or trapper, and all who travel in a wild country should
be provided with such a dress.

About a mile from the farm-house, we descended a steep bank, two
hundred feet high, to the river, where we found our canoes waiting
for us. The Cowlitz was here about two hundred yards wide, and
very rapid. Our company, or rather crew, consisted of nine young
Indians. We were soon seated and' gliding down the stream, while
each boatman exerted his fullest strength to send us onwards. Just
before sunset, when we thought we had made nine miles, we landed
and pitched our tents on a small island in the river. The island was
covered with drift-wood, which soon enabled us to make a good fire,
which the temperature rendered quite acceptable. When our supper
was prepared, we found that our Indians had come away destitute of
any supply whatever, and that it was necessary to provide for them.
This I have generally found to be the case, not only with these

2B2

318 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

Indians, but with the natives of Polynesia ; both require looking after
before going on a journey, and will seldom burden themselves with
food.

At the place where we embarked I tried the velocity of the stream,
which I found three miles per hour, but in some places it was much
more rapid. The temperature of its water was 48° Fahrenheit.

During the night I succeeded in getting several observations of stars,
for latitude and longitude.

The next morning we made a start betimes, in order to reach
Astoria at an early hour. A short distance below our encampment
we passed the east fork of the Cowlitz, which is smaller and not navi-
gable even for canoes. We also passed the mouths of several small
streams on the west side. Plumondon pointed out that side of the river
to me as good trapping-ground, and amused me by the narration of
many of the difficulties he had to encounter in taking his game. About
noon we reached the Columbia.

The Cowlitz river takes its rise in the Cascade Range, near Mount
Rainier, and has many short turns in it. Its banks are tolerably high,
until it approaches the Columbia. It is only at high water, in the
spring and fall, that the river can be used for boating, at which time
the supplies from Vancouver are sent, and the grain, &c., returned,
in large flat barges. The soil along the river appears to be of a good
quality, a clayey loam with vegetable mould, over trap rock and sand-
stone. The prevalent trees were poplars, soft maples, ash, fir, pine,
and cedar, with some laurel, where the prairies are so low as to be
flooded in the month of May

On this river it was reported that coal of a good quality existed,
but I examined all the places that indicated it, and only found lignite.
This exists in several places, but the largest quantity lies above the
East Fork : several specimens of it were obtained.

In the month of September following, I examined the Cowlitz, and
found it exhibiting a very different character. A few miles above its
mouth there was not water enough to float even a boat, and it was
besides filled with rapids. It is not navigable for barges more than
three months in a year. The distance we passed down the Cowlitz
did not exceed twenty-six miles, although we had been told that it was
more than forty.

The route by the way of the Cowlitz will in all probability be that
which will hereafter be pursued to the northern waters and sounds.
Although there are many difficulties in crossing the rivers, &c., yet it
is believed to be the most feasible course.

On our way we met with many canoes passing up, loaded with

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 319

salmon and trout, which had been taken at the Willamette Falls, and
which they were then carrying to trade with the Indians for the
cammass-root. We obtained some of the fish as a supply for our
Indians.

On entering the Columbia our Indians required some rest, and said
they were hungry ; we therefore concluded to stop for a short time
on its banks. If I were to judge of the whole Cowlitz tribe from the
specimens we had with us, I should say they were the merriest set of
fellows I ever saw, full of fun, and laughing all day long : I became at
last wearied with their incessant gaiety.

The Columbia, where the Cowlitz joins it, is a broad flowing
stream, and was at this time much swollen. We had, after entering
it, about forty miles yet to make, and it was past noon ; but we glided
briskly on with the current, although it was by no means so rapid as
I had expected to have found it. Near the mouth of the Cowlitz is a
high conical hill, which has received the name of Mount Coffin,
from its having been a burial-place of the Indians ; and the remains
of many of their coffins were still to be seen scattered over it. On the
opposite side of the river is a high barrier of trap rocks, covered with
majestic pines.

About ten miles lower down, we passed Oak Point, where the river
turns nearly at right angles, taking its course along a barrier of trap
rocks, which it here meets on its west side, and which rises eight
hundred feet perpendicularly above its surface. On the other side of
the river is one of the remarkable prairies of the country, covered with
tall waving grass, and studded with many oaks, from which the point
takes its name. What adds additional interest and beauty to the scene
is Mount St. Helen's, which may be seen from the sea when eighty
miles distant: its height I made nine thousand five hundred and fifty
feet.

In this part of the river, which I named St. Helen's Reach, we met
the brig Wave, that had brought our stores from Oahu. The master
informed me that he had landed them at Astoria, and placed them
under the care of Mr. Birnie, who had charge of the Company's fort.
The master of the Wave confirmed the report that the Peacock had
not arrived, and after a short delay we proceeded. By sunset we had
reached Termination Island, and had yet twenty miles to make in a
very dark night. We had already passed the only place where we
could have encamped, and the natives showed extreme reluctance to
go on. They soon desired to return ; saying that the night was veijy
dark, and that the bay would be dangerous. This request was over-
ruled, however, and we continued our course, though under appre-

320 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

hension of disaster. The Indians said that many canoes had been
lost, and after I became acquainted with this part of the river, I no
longer wondered at their objections to pass over it at night ; for if
there is any wind it becomes exceedingly rough, and dangerous for
their canoes.

We found the water quite smooth, and glided on hour after hour
without any appearance of a landing. I was at a loss to account for
the length of our passage, until I found the tide had been against us.
We at last reached what Plumondon called Tongue Point, and after-
\vards kept skirting the shore for so long a time that I began to have
misgivings that we should pass Astoria, and began firing muskets, the
usual signal of an arrival. They were immediately answered by others
just behind us, and the loud clamour of about forty yelping dogs.
These sounds, although discordant, gave us the delightful assurance
that we had reached our destination, and might now make our escape
from the confined and irksome position we had been in a whole day.
Mr. Birnie, the agent of the Hudson Bay Company, met us at the
landing, with lanterns and every assistance, and gave us a truly Scotch
welcome. We soon found ourselves in his quarters, where in a short
time a fire was burning brightly, and his hospitable board spread with
good cheer, although it was past midnight. After partaking of the
supper, blankets were furnished us, and we were made exceedingly
comfortable for the night.

In the morning we had a view of the somewhat famous Astoria,
which is any thing but what I should wish to describe. Half a dozen
log houses, with as many sheds and a pig-sty or two, are all that it can
boast of, and even these appear to be rapidly going to decay.

The Company pay little regard to it, and the idea of holding or
improving it as a post, has long since been given up. The head-
quarters of their operations have been removed to Vancouver, eighty
miles further up the river, since which Astoria has merely been held
for the convenience of their vessels. It boasts of but one field, and that
was in potatoes, which I can, however, vouch for as being very fine.
In former times it had its gardens, forts, and banqueting halls ; and
from all accounts, when it was the head-quarters of the Northwest
Company, during their rivalship with the Hudson Bay Company, there
was as jovial a set residing here, as ever were met together. I have
had the pleasure of meeting with several of the survivors, who have
recounted their banquetings, &c.

, In point of beauty of situation, few places will vie with Astoria. It
is situated on the south side of the Columbia river, eleven miles from
Cape Disappointment, as the crow flies. From Astoria there is a fine

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 321

view of the high promontory of Cape Disappointment, and the ocean
bounding it on the west; the Chinook Hills and Point Ellice, with its
rugged peak, on the north ; Tongue Point and Katalamet Range on
the east; and a high background, bristling with lofty pines, to the
south. The ground rises from the river gradually to the top of a ridge
five hundred feet in elevation. This was originally covered with a
thick forest of pines : that part reclaimed by the first occupants is
again growing up in brushwood. From all parts of the ground the
broad surface of the river is in view. The stillness is remarkable, and
makes it evident that one is yet far removed from civilized life : the
distant though distinct roar of the ocean is the only sound that is heard:
this, however, is almost incessant ; for the stream, though rushing on-
wards in silence to meet the ocean, keeps up an eternal war with it on
the bar, producing at times scenes of great grandeur, but which, as we
had already experienced, renders the bar wholly impassable for days
together.

The magnificent pine, so often mentioned by travellers, lies prostrate
near the tomb of the hospitable chief Concomely, now in ruins. The
chief's skull, it is believed, is in Glasgow, having been long since re-
moved by Dr. Gardner.

There were many things to remind us of home : among them was a
luxuriant sward of white clover, now in full blossom, and numerous
other plants that had found their way here : the trees were also familiar,
and truly American. I felt that the land belonged to my country, that
we were not strangers on the soil ; and could not but take great interest
in relation to its destiny, in the prospect of its one day becoming the
abode of our relatives and friends.

The Columbia, opposite to Astoria, is four miles wide, but in the
middle of the river is an extensive sand-bar, with only a few feet water
on it, and at extreme low tides it is bare : the channel is very narrow
on each side and difficult to navigate. At Astoria there is only space
for a dozen vessels to lie at anchor, and it would therefore be difficult
to accommodate any extensive trade. The point of land extends about
half a mile below its site, where Young's river joins the Columbia, arid
forms a bay, on the banks of which Lewis and Clarke wintered. The
position of their hut is still pointed out, but the building has long since
gone to decay.

Plumondon, who, as I have before mentioned, is an expert trapper,
informed me that the country lying north of the Columbia, between the
Cowlitz and Cape Disappointment, is generally rough and rugged, with
numerous streams of water, and in many places a rich soil : it is

VOL. IV. 41

3-22 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

extremely well timbered, and is capable, when cleared, of growing
grain, and other agricultural produce.

On the 23d (Sunday), it was reported that a vessel was off the Cape,
firing guns. This made me extremely anxious to go thither, but as
there was much difficulty in accomplishing this, Mr. Birnie proposed a
trip to Point Adams, and a visit to the missionaries at Clatsop. This
proposal I gladly accepted, and at an early hour the next morning we
set out, crossed Young's Bay, landed, and after walking a mile came
to the mission, where we had the pleasure of seeing Mr. and Mrs.
Frost. Mr. Frost gave us a kind welcome at his new dwelling, which
I understood him to say had been built with his own hands. His wife
appeared cheerful and happy, and made herself quite agreeable. The
house is a frame one, of one story, and contains three rooms : it is
situated in a young spruce and pine grove, which is thought to be the
most healthy situation here. There are two American settlers, who are
building houses here, named respectively Tibbits and Smith ; both of
them are very respectable men, and good mechanics. This place is
not susceptible of improvement, and I understood that it had been
chosen for its salubrity. I understood that Mr. Frost was engaged
with the Rev. Mr. Koen in cultivating a tract of land, about four miles
distant. The latter resides upon the tract, and is occupied in raising a
large crop and superintending cattle. There appeared to me to be
little opportunity for exercising their ministerial calling, though I
understood afterwards that at particular seasons a number of Indians
collected to hear them.

After spending some time with them, Mr. Birnie, Mr. Frost, and
myself set off for Point Adams and Clatsop village. I think, in all my
life, I had never met with so many snakes as I saw during this short
walk: they were on the beach, where they were apparently feeding at
low water. We looked from the sand-hills on Point Adams for vessels,
but none were in sight ; and then we walked on to the village. It con-
sisted of a few rough lodges, constructed of boards or rather hewn
planks, of large size; the interior resembled a miserably-constructed
ship's cabin, with bunks, &c. ; the only light was admitted from above,
near the ridge and gable-end. Pieces of salmon and venison were
hanging up in the smoke of their fire. Numbers of the Indians are
always to be seen lounging about, and others gambling. On the bunk-
planks are painted various uncouth figures of men, and in one was seen
hanging the head of an elk, which it was understood they make use
of occasionally as a decoy in the chase, for the purpose of taking their
game more easily. Around the whole is a palisade, made of thick

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 333

planks and joists, about fifteen feet in length, set with one end in the
ground, to protect them from attack.

The Indians of this region even now make war upon each other on
the most trivial occasion, and for the most part to satisfy individual
revenge. The Hudson Bay Company's officers possess and exert a
most salutary influence, endeavouring to preserve peace at all hazards.
It is now quite safe for a white man to pass in any direction through
the part of the country where their posts are, and in case of accident
to any white settler, a war-party is at once organized, and the offender
is hunted up. About a year previous to our arrival, an Indian was
executed at Astoria for the murder of a white man, whom he had
found asleep, killed, and stolen his property.

He was taken, tried, found guilty, and executed in the presence of
most of the settlers. The culprit was a slave, and it was some time
before the chief to whom he belonged would give him up. It was
proved on the trial, and through the confession of the slave, that he
had stolen the property and committed the murder by order of his
master, who took all the stolen goods. The master made his escape
when he found his agency had been discovered ; and I understood that
he kept himself aloof from all the Company's posts, until the matter
should be forgotten.

As the tide had risen so much as to render it difficult to walk along
the beach, we returned to Mr. Frost's in a crazy canoe, and were very
near being upset. Had this accident happened, it must have proved
fatal to some of us in the strong tide that was running; we therefore
felt much relieved to get again to the beach. After partaking of Mrs.
Frost's good cheer, we returned to Astoria, much pleased with our
day's jaunt.

On the Clatsop beach, we saw a great number of dead fish. Mr.
Birnie informed me, that they were thrown up in great numbers during
the autumn ; and were supposed to be killed by a kind of worm, gene-
rated in their stomachs.

On the 28th, the Company's barques Cowlitz and Columbia were in
sight : the former bound for Oahu, the latter for Sitka. By the former,
we sent letters for home.

Our Indians having recovered from their fatigue, I resolved to pro-
ceed with Mr. Drayton to Vancouver, leaving Mr. Waldron to await
the arrival of the Peacock, and to recruit from his sickness. We
embarked at noon, having Mr. Birnie with us, to join the vessels above.
We soon found ourselves in much more sea and wind than our canoe
could bear ; and, by Plumondon's advice, took in our sail, and made
for Tongue Point as quickly as we could. He deemed it much too

324 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

dangerous to venture across the open bay in the small canoe we had
bought in lieu of the one we had come down in.

We landed at Tongue Point and encamped ; but as we had much
time yet before dark, we went to the top of the Point, which is said
to be the position best adapted for a fortification to defend the channel
up the river. Tongue Point is a high bluff of trap rock, covered wi h
trees of large dimensions : the top has been cleared and taken posses-
sion of by Mr. Birnie, who has erected a log hut and planted a patch
of potatoes. The hut was inhabited for a year, by a Sandwich Islander
and his wife. It is rather a rough spot for cultivation, but the end of
occupancy was answered by it. There is a small portage on Tongue
Point, which canoes often use in bad weather, to avoid accidents that
might occur in the rough seas that make in the channel that passes
round it.

Mr. Drayton picked up a considerable number of shells.

Late in the afternoon, Mr. Birnie left us, and joined the barque
Columbia. Mr. Drayton and myself made ourselves comfortable, not-
withstanding it rained and blew hard. The next morning we set out
for Vancouver ; but our progress was slow, and we were obliged to
take advantage of all the eddies. By the afternoon, however, we had
reached Oak Point, and stopped at a collection of lodges in order to
obtain some salmon.

Near Puget Island, we encountered a party fishing, and saw them
take a large salmon ; but they demanded such an exorbitant price for
it (equal to one dollar and twenty-five cents), that we refused to give
it; considering it bad policy to indulge their cupidity.* Plumondon
said, that they had no desire to sell the fish, as they had a superstitious
objection to dispose of the first fish to strangers : even if induced to
sell it, they will always take the heart out and roast it for themselves ;
for they believe, that if the heart of the fish were eaten by a stranger
at the first of the season, their success would be destroyed, and they
would catch no more fish. To prevent this, they consider it requisite
that a certain number of " sleeps" or days should pass before any are
sold. The price of a large salmon is about ten cents in trade.

Here we unexpectedly found the medicine-man, employed in going
through his incantations and preparing his medicines. One of our
young Indians, who was a chief, landed, without knowing what was
going on, for the purpose of making the inquiries we desired. He
was met with direful looks, and in great wrath ordered by all the

* On mentioning the subject at Vancouver, I was told I ought to have taken the fish
and paid the Indian what I thought proper.

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 325

men to leave the place : they seemed at the instant, desirous to wreak
vengeance upon him for his intrusion. His retreat was precipitate,
as he well knew the consequences of delay and the danger of disturb-
ing the medicine-man during his incantations. If the patient should
die, they invariably impute the fatal result to the disturbance, and
ascribe the death to the intruder. This invariably leads to his being
put to death, by the nearest of kin, who deems this act a duty. Plumon-
don said, that he was not at all surprised at the fear the young chief
showed ; for he had himself been placed in similar circumstances a
short time before, when his father had died. The medicine-man im-
puted his death to a chief of the Klackatacks, whom this young chief
shortly afterwards killed. Occurrences of this description have led to
long and bloody wars among the tribes ; and the only way of settling
and overcoming this difficulty, is by paying a valuation for the de-
ceased. I understood that from five to twenty blankets, according to
rank, and the estimation in which the deceased was held, is considered
a proper indemnity.

We encamped a few miles above Oak Point, on the prairie, in a
grove of trees. The next morning was beautiful, and the birds were
singing blithely around us. Our Indians were as merry as the birds.
There was an entire absence of game birds, though a great number of
singing ones were seen.

We passed during the day Coffin Rock, which is about seven miles
above the Mount Coffin before spoken of. It is of small dimensions,
and has been the burial-place of chiefs, who are usually interred in
canoes, which are provided with all the necessary appendages for their
journey to the land of spirits and their hunting-grounds. The mode
of disposing of their dead seems to have been different on the south
side of the Columbia. On the Cowlitz we observed many canoes near
the bank of the river, supported between four trees : these contain the
remains of their dead, are painted in a variety of figures, and have
gifts from their friends hung around them. I was told that this is not
only done at the time of their burial, but frequently for several months
after. All the sepulchres of this description that I saw were going to
decay.

All the Indians have a great regard for these places of interment,
and consider them as being sacred.

Shortly after we passed this point, we met a canoe, and one of our
Indians was informed that his child was dead. We made a stop soon
after, and I observed that the man scarified himself on the leg in several
places, until he bled profusely; this done, he lighted his pipe, and
seemed to smoke for consolation. He kept himself for that evening
20

326 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

apart from the rest, who continued their merriment, and paid no regard
whatever to his movements. To judge from his expression of counte-
nance, I should say he was much grieved ; but the next day he was as
merry as any of the others. After being a week with these natives, I
never saw any flagging in their spirits, for with this exception, all were
gay and lively at their work. They are not strong, and have an
effeminate look, of which their manners also partake.

The scenery before reaching the lower mouth of the Willamette, is
diversified with high and low land, which, together with three lofty
snowy peaks, afford many fine views. The country begins to open
here, and is much better adapted to agriculture than that lower
down.

At Warrior Point we entered the Callepuya, for the purpose of
avoiding the current of the river. At this time of the year this branch
forms an extensive range of lakes, which reaches to within a mile of
Vancouver. The river was now high enough to make it convenient
for us to take this route. Shortly after entering the Callepuya, we
were obliged to encamp, which we did in rather an inauspicious-looking
place ; but the bank had not yet absorbed sufficient moisture to make it
even wet or damp. Mr. Drayton having shot a pigeon, we had some-
thing for supper, otherwise we should have gone without, for we thought
when we left Astoria, we should reach Vancouver many hours before
we actually did. On the approach to Vancouver, we passed one of
the dairies, and some rich meadow-land, on which were grazing herds
of fine cattle. We afterwards saw some flocks of sheep of the best
English and Spanish breeds.

It becoming necessary to make a short portage within a mile of
Vancouver, we concluded to walk thither by the road. In this march
we first entered a wood of large pines, which had an undergrowth of
various flowering shrubs. The old stumps in the road were overgrown
with the red honeysuckle, in full blossom. Lupines and other flowers
grow even in the roadway.

We came in at the back part of the village, which consists of about
fifty comfortable log houses, placed in regular order on each side of
the road. They are inhabited by the Company's servants, and were
swarming with children, whites, half-breeds, and pure Indians. The
fort stands at some distance beyond the village, and to the eye appears
like an upright wall of pickets, twenty-five feet high : this encloses the
houses, shops, and magazines of the Company. The enclosure con-
tains about four acres, which appear to be under full cultivation.
Beyond the fort, large granaries were to be seen. At one end is Dr.
M'Langhlin's house, built after the model of the French Canadian, of

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

327

one story, weather-boarded and painted white. It has a piazza and
small flower-beds, with grape and other vines, in front. Between the
steps are two old cannons on sea-carriages, with a few shot, to speak
defiance to the natives, who no doubt look upon them as very formi-
dable weapons of destruction. I mention these, as they are the only
warlike instruments to my knowledge that are within the pickets of
Vancouver, which differs from all the other forts in having no bastions,
galleries, or loop-holes. Near by are the rooms for the clerks and
visitors, with the blacksmiths' and coopers' shops. In the centre
stands the Roman Catholic chapel, and near by the flag-staff; beyond
these again are the stores, magazines of powder, warerooms, and
offices.

FORT VANCOUVER.

We went immediately to Dr. M'Laughlm s quarters. He was not
within, but we were kindly invited to enter, with the assurance that he
would soon return. Only a few minutes elapsed before Dr. M'Laughlin
came galloping up, having understood that we had preceded him. He
is a tall fine-looking person, of a very robust frame, with a frank manly
open countenance, and a florid complexion ; his hair is perfectly white.
He gave us that kind reception we had been led to expect from his
well-known hospitality. He is of Scotch parentage, but by birth, a
Canadian, enthusiastic in disposition, possessing great energy of cha-
racter, and extremely well suited for the situation he occupies, which
requires great talent and industry. He at once ordered dinner for us,
and we soon felt ourselves at home, having comfortable rooms assigned
us, and being treated as part of the establishment.

The situation of Vancouver is favourable for agricultural purposes,
and it may be said to be the head of navigation for sea-going vessels.
A vessel of fourteen feet draft of water, may reach it in the lowest
state of the river. The Columbia at this point makes a considerable
angle, and is divided by two islands, which extend upwards about
three miles, to where the upper branch of the Willamette joins it.

328 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

The shores of these islands are covered with trees, consisting of ash,
poplars, pines, and oaks, while the centre is generally prairie, and
lower than the banks : they are principally composed of sand. During
the rise of the river in May and June, the islands are covered with
water, that filters through the banks that are not overflowed. This
influx renders them unfit for grain crops, as the coldness of the water
invariably destroys every cultivated plant it touches.

The Company's establishment at Vancouver is upon an extensive
scale, and is worthy of the vast interest of which it is the centre. The
residents mess at several tables : one for the chief factor and his clerks ;
one for their wives (it being against the regulations of the Company
for their officers and wives to take their meals together) ; another for
the missionaries; and another for the sick and the Catholic mission-
aries. All is arranged in the best order, and I should think with great
economy. Every thing may be had within the fort : they have an ex-
tensive apothecary shop, a bakery, blacksmiths' and coopers' shops,
trade-offices for buying, others for selling, others again for keeping
accounts and transacting business; shops for retail, where English
manufactured articles may be purchased at as low a price, if not
cheaper, than in the United States, consisting of cotton and woollen
goods, ready-made clothing, ship-chandlery, earthen and iron ware,
and fancy articles ; in short, every thing, and of every kind and
description, including all sorts of groceries, at an advance of eighty
per cent, on the London prime cost. This is the established price at
Vancouver, but at the other posts it is one hundred per cent., to cover
the extra expenses of transportation. All these articles are of good
quality, and suitable for the servants, settlers and visitors. Of the
quantity on hand, some idea may be formed from the fact that all the
posts west of the Rocky Mountains get their annual supplies from this
depot.

Vancouver is the head-quarters of the Northwest or Columbian
Department, which also includes New Caledonia ; all the returns of
furs are received here, and hither all accounts are transmitted for
settlement. These operations occasion a large mass of business to be
transacted at this establishment. Mr. Douglass, a chief factor, and the
associate of Dr. M'Laughlin, assists in this department, and takes sole
charge in his absence.

Dr. M'Laughlin showed us our rooms, and told us that the bell was
the signal for meals.

Towards sunset, tea-time arrived, and we obeyed the summons of
the bell, when we were introduced to several of the gentlemen of the
establishment: we met in a large hall, with a long table spread with

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 329

abundance of good fare. Dr. M'Laughlin took the head of the table,
with myself on his right, Messrs. Douglass and Drayton on his left, and
the others apparently according to their rank. I mention this, as every
one appears to have a relative rank, privilege, and station assigned him,
and military etiquette prevails. The meal lasts no longer than is
necessary to satisfy hunger. With the officers who are clerks, business
is the sole object of their life, and one is entirely at a loss here who has
nothing to do. Fortunately I found myself much engaged, and there-
fore it suited me. The agreeable company of Dr. M'Laughlin and Mr.
Douglass made the time at meals pass delightfully. Both of these
gentlemen were kind enough to give up a large portion of their time
to us, and I felt occasionally that we must be trespassing on their
business hours. After meals, it is the custom to introduce pipes and
tobacco. It was said that this practice was getting into disuse, but I
should have concluded from what I saw that it was at its height.

Canadian French is generally spoken to the servants : even those who
come out from England after a while adopt it, and it is not a little
amusing to hear the words they use, and the manner in which they
pronounce them.

The routine of a day at Vancouver is perhaps the same throughout
the year. At early dawn the bell is rung for the working parties, who
soon after go to work : the sound of the hammers, click of the anvils,
the rumbling of the carts, with tinkling of bells, render it difficult to
sleep after this hour. The bell rings again at eight, for breakfast ; at
nine they resume their work, which continues till one ; then an hour is
allowed for dinner, after which they work till six, when the labours of
the day close. At five o'clock on Saturday afternoon the work is
stopped, when the servants receive their weekly rations.

Vancouver is a large manufacturing, agricultural, and commercial
depot, and there are few if any idlers, except the sick. Everybody
seems to be in a hurry, whilst there appears to be no obvious reason
for it.

Without making any inquiries, I heard frequent complaints made of
both the quantity and quality of the food issued by the Company to its
servants. I could not avoid perceiving that these complaints were well
founded, if this allowance were compared with what we deem a
sufficient ration in the United States for a labouring man. Many of
the servants complained that they had to spend a great part of the
money they receive to buy food: this is £17 per annum, out of
which they have to furnish themselves with clothes. They are
engaged for five years, and after their time has expired the Com-
pany are obliged to send them back to England or Canada, if they

VOL. iv. 2C2 43

330 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

desire it. Generally, however, when their time expires they find
themselves in debt, and are obliged to serve an extra time to pay it:
and not unfrequently, at the expiration of their engagement, they
have become attached, or married, to some Indian woman or half-
breed, and have children, on which account they find themselves
unable to leave, and continue attached to the Company's service, and
in all respects under the same engagement as before. If they desire
to remain and cultivate land, they are assigned a certain portion, but
are still dependent on the Company for many of the necessaries of life,
clothing, &c. This causes them to become a sort of vassal, and com-
pels them to execute the will of the Company. In this way, however,
order and decorum are preserved, together with steady habits, for few
can in any way long withstand this silent influence. The consequence
is, that few communities are to be found more well-behaved and orderly
than that which is formed of the persons who have retired from the
Company's service. That this power, exercised by the officers of the
Company, is much complained of, I am aware, but I am satisfied that
as far as the morals of the settlers and servants are concerned, it is
used for good purposes. For instance, the use of spirits is almost
entirely done away with. Dr. M'Laughlin has acted in a highly praise-
worthy manner in this particular. Large quantities of spirituous
liquors are now stored in the magazines at Vancouver, which the Com-
pany have refused to make an article of trade, and none is now used
by them in the territory for that purpose. They have found this rule
highly beneficial to their business in several respects : more furs are
taken, in consequence of those who are engaged having fewer induce-
ments to err; the Indians are found to be less quarrelsome, and pursue
the chase more constantly ; and the settlers, as far as I could hear, have
been uniformly prosperous.

In order to show the course of the Company upon this subject, I
will mention one circumstance. The brig Thomas H. Perkins arrived
here with a large quantity of rum on board, with other goods. Dr.
M'Laughlin, on hearing of this, made overtures immediately for the
purchase of the whole cargo, in order to get possession of the whiskey
or rum, and succeeded. The Doctor mentioned to me that the liquor
was now in store, and would not be sold in the country, and added,
that the only object he had in buying the cargo was to prevent the use
of the rum, and to sustain the temperance cause.

The settlers are also deterred from crimes, as the Company have the
power of sending them to Canada for trial, which is done with little
cost, by means of the annual expresses which carry their accounts and
books.

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 331

The interior of the houses in the fort are unpretending. They are
simply finished with pine board panels, without any paint : bunks are
built for bedsteads ; but the whole, though plain, is as comfortable as
could be desired.

I was introduced to several of the missionaries: Mr. and Mrs. Smith,
of the American Board of Missions ; Mr. and Mrs. Griffith, and Mr.
and Mrs. Clarke, of the Self-supporting Mission ; Mr. Waller of the
Methodist, and two others. They, for the most part, make Vancouver
their home, where they are kindly received and well entertained at no
expense to themselves. The liberality and freedom from sectarian
principles of Dr. M'Laughlin may be estimated from his being thus
hospitable to missionaries of so many Protestant denominations, al-
though he is a professed Catholic, and has a priest of the same faith
officiating daily at the chapel. Religious toleration is allowed in its
fullest extent The dining-hall is given up on Sunday to the use of the
ritual of the Anglican Church, and Mr. Douglass or a missionary reads
the service.

Mr. and Mrs. Smith had been in the country two years, and were
about leaving it for the Hawaiian Islands, in consequence of the ill
health of Mrs. Smith. Mr. Smith informed me that he had been
settled on the Kooskooskee, at a station called Kamia. There were no
Indians near that station, and consequently little duty for a missionary
to perform. All the above-named missions, except the Methodist,
came across the Rocky Mountains : they represented the pass through
them as by no means difficult, and that they had entertained no appre-
hension of the hostile Indians. They had accompanied a party of
fur-traders from St. Louis, and gave a deplorable account of the dis-
sipation and morals of the party. Messrs. Griffith and Clarke were
entirely disappointed in finding self-support here, and had it not been
for the kindness of Dr. M'Laughlin, who took them in, they would
have suffered much. They were advised to settle themselves on the
Faulitz Plains, where I have understood they have since taken land,
and succeeded in acquiring quite respectable farms.

There are two large entrance gates to the " fort" for wagons and
carts, and one in the rear leading to the granaries and the garden :
the latter is quite extensive, occupying four or five acres, and contains
all kinds of vegetables and many kinds of fruit, with which the tables
are abundantly supplied by the gardener, " Billy Bruce." After
William Bruce's first term of service had expired, he was desirous of
returning to England, and was accordingly sent. This happened
during the visit of Dr. M'Laughlin to England. One day an acci-
dental meeting took place in a crowded street of London, where he

332 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

begged Dr. M'Laughlin to send him back to Vancouver. William
Bruce was accordingly taken again into employ, and sent, back in the
next ship. In the mean time, however, he was sent to Chisvvick, the
seat of the Duke of Devonshire, to get a little more knowledge of
his duties, and remained till the vessel sailed ; but no place was like
Vancouver to him, and all his success here continues to be compared
with Chiswick, which he endeavours to surpass: this is alike creditable
to both.

Besides the storehouses there is also a granary, which is a frame
building of two stories, and the only one, the rest being built of logs.

In addition to these, there are extensive kitchens and apartments
for the half-breed and Indian children that the Company have taken
to bring up and educate. Of these there are now twenty-three boys
and fifteen girls, who claim the particular attention of Dr. M'Laughlin
and Mrs. Douglass. A teacher is employed for the boys, who super-
intends them not only in school, but in the field and garden. During
my stay an examination took place, and although the pupils did not
prove very expert at their reading and writing, yet we had sufficient
evidence that they had made some improvement, and were in a fair
way to acquire the rudiments. Some allowance was to be made for
the boys, who had been constantly in the field under their teacher for
a few months past. Dr. M'Laughlin estimated the labour of four of
these small boys as equal to that of a man. It was an interesting sight
to see these poor little cast-away fellows, of all shades of colour, from
the pure Indian to that of the white, thus snatched away from the
vices and idleness of the savage. They all speak both English and
French; they are also instructed in religious exercises, in which I
thought they appeared more proficient than in their other studies.
These they are instructed in on Sunday, on which day they attend divine
worship twice. They were a ruddy set of boys, and when at work
had a busy appearance : they had planted and raised six hundred
bushels of potatoes ; and from what Dr. M'Laughlin said to me, fully
maintain themselves. The girls are equally well cared for, and are
taught by a female, with whom they live and work.

An opinion has gone abroad, I do not know how, that at this post
there is a total disregard of morality and religion, and that vice pre-
dominates. As far as my observations went, I feel myself obliged to
state, that every thing seems to prove the contrary, and to bear testi-
mony that the officers of the Company are exerting themselves to
check vice, and encourage morality and religion, in a very marked
manner; and that I saw no instance in which vice was tolerated in
any degree. I have, indeed, reason to believe, from the discipline and

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 333

the example of the superiors, that the whole establishment is a pattern
of good order and correct deportment.

This remark not only extends to this establishment, but as far as
our opportunities went (and all but two of their posts were visited),
the same good order prevails throughout the country. Wherever the
operations of the Company extend, they have opened the way to
future emigration, provided the means necessary for the success of
emigrants, and rendered its peaceful occupation an easy and cheap
task.

The mode in which their trade is carried on, will give some idea of
the system pursued by the Company. All the imported goods are
divided into three classes, viz. : articles of gratuity, those of trade,
and those intended to pay for small services, labour, and provisions.
The first consists of knives and tobacco; the second, of blankets, guns,
cloth, powder, and shot; the third, of shirts, handkerchiefs, ribands,
beads, &c. These articles are bartered at seemingly great profits,
and many persons imagine that large gain must be the result from the
Indian trade ; but this is seldom the case. The Indians and settlers
understand well the worth of each article, and were not inclined to give
for it more than its real value, besides getting a present or " potlatch"
to boot. The Company are obliged to make advances to all their
trappers, if they wish to be sure of their services ; and from such a
reckless set, there is little certainty of getting returns, even if the
trapper has it in his power. In fact, he will not return with his season's
acquisitions, unless he is constrained to pursue the same course of
life for another year, when he requires a new advance. In order to
avoid losses by the departure of their men, the parties, some thirty or
forty in number, are placed under an officer who has charge of the
whole. These are allowed to take their wives and even families with
them ; and places, where they are to trap during the season, on some
favourable ground, are assigned to them. These parties leave Van-
couver in October, and return by May or June. They usually trap on
shares, and the portion they are to receive is defined by an agreement;
the conditions of which depend very much upon their skill.

All the profits of the Company depend upon economical manage-
ment, for the quantity of peltry in this section of the country, and
indeed it may be said the fur-trade on this side of the mountains, has
fallen off fifty per cent, within the last few years. It is indeed reported,
that this business at present is hardly worth pursuing.

Mr. Douglass was kind enough to take me into the granary, which
contained wheat, flour, barley, and buckwheat. The wheat averaged
sixty-three pounds to the bushel ; barley yields twenty bushels to the

334 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

acre ; buckwheat, in some seasons, gives a good crop, but it is by no
means certain, owing to the early frosts ; oats do not thrive well ;
peas, beans, and potatoes yield abundantly ; little or no hay is made,
the cattle being able to feed all the year round on the natural hay,
which they find very nutritious, and fatten upon it. The grass grows
up rapidly in the beginning of summer ; and the subsequent heat and
drought convert it into hay, in which all the juices are preserved.
Besides this, they have on the prairies along the river, two luxu-
riant growths of grass ; the first in the spring, and the second soon
after the overflowing of the river subsides, which is generally in July
and August. The last crop lasts the remainder of the season. Neither
do they require shelter, although they are penned in at night. The
pens are movable ; and the use of them is not only for security against
the wolves, but to manure the ground.

The farm at Vancouver is about nine miles square. On this they
have two dairies, and milk upwards of one hundred cows. There are
also two other dairies, situated on Wapauto Island on the Willamette,
where they have one hundred and fifty cows, whose milk is employed,
under the direction of imported dairymen, in making butter and cheese
for the Russian settlements.

They have likewise a grist and saw mill, both well constructed,
about six miles above Vancouver, on the Columbia river.

One afternoon we rode with Mr. Douglass to visit the dairy-farm,
which lies to the west of Vancover, on the Callepuya. This was one
of the most beautiful rides I had yet taken, through fine prairies,
adorned with large oaks, ash, and pines. The large herds of cattle
feeding and reposing under the trees, gave an air of civilization to the
scene, that is the only thing wanting in the other parts of the territory.
The water was quite high ; and many of the little knolls were sur-
rounded by it, which had the appearance of small islets breaking the
wide expanse of overflowing water.

This dairy is removed every year, which is found advantageous to
the ground, and affords the cattle better pasturage. The stock on the
Vancouver farm is about three thousand head of cattle, two thousand
five hundred sheep, and about three hundred brood mares.

At the dairy, we were regaled with most excellent milk ; and found
the whole establishment well managed by a Canadian and his wife.
They churn in barrel-machines, of which there are several. All the
cattle look extremely well, and are rapidly increasing in numbers.
The cows give milk at the age of eighteen months. Those of the Cali-
fornia breed give a very small quantity of milk; but when crossed
with those from the United States and England, do very well. I

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 335

saw two or three very fine bulls, that had been imported from
England. The sheep have lambs twice a year: those of the Cali-
fornia breed yield a very inferior kind of wool, which is inclined to
be hairy near the hide, and is much matted. This breed has been
crossed with the Leicester, Bakewell, and other breeds, which has
much improved it. The fleeces of the mixed breed are very heavy,
weighing generally eight pounds, and some as much as twelve.
Merinos have been tried, but they are not found to thrive.

The Californian horses are not equal to those raised in Oregon:
those bred near Wallawalla are in the most repute.

In one of our rides we visited the site of the first fort at Vancouver:
it is less than a mile from the present position, and is just on the brow
of the upper prairie. The view from this place is truly beautiful:
the noble river can be traced in all its windings, for a long distance
through the cultivated prairie, with its groves and clumps of trees ;
beyond, the eye sweeps over an interminable forest, melting into a
blue haze, from which Mount Hood, capped with its eternal snows,
rises in great beauty. The tints of purple which appear in the
atmosphere, are, so far as I am aware, peculiar to this country. This
site was abandoned, in consequence of the difficulty of obtaining
water, and its distance from the river, which compelled them to
transport every article up a high and rugged road. The latter
difficulty was encountered in the first location on the upper prairie,
because it was said that the lower one was occasionally flooded ; but
although this may have happened formerly, it is not found to occur at
present.

I also visited the grist-mill, which is situated on a small stream,
but owing to the height of the river, which threw a quantity of back-
water on the wheel, it was not in action. The mill has one run of
stones, and is a well-built edifice. Annexed to it is the house of the
miller, who is also the watchmaker of the neighbourhood. The mill
is amply sufficient for all the wants of the Company, and of the sur-
rounding country. The saw-mill is two miles beyond the grist-mill.
A similar mistake has been made in choosing its position, for the mill
is placed so low that for the part of the season when they have most
water, they are unable to use it. There are in it several runs of
saws, and it is remarkably well built. In few buildings, indeed, can
such materials be seen as are here used. The quality of timber cut
into boards, is inferior to what we should deem merchantable in the
United States, and is little better than our hemlock. The boards are
shipped to the Sandwich Islands, and we here found the brig Wave
taking in a cargo of lumber. These boards sell at Oahu for eighty

336 NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

dollars per thousand. I could not ascertain their cost here. About
twenty men (Canadians and Sandwich Islanders) are employed at the
mill.

They have a large smith's shop here, which, besides doing the work
of the mill, makes all the axes and hatchets used by the trappers.
The iron and steel are imported: the tools are manufactured at a
much less price than those imported, and are more to be depended on.
A trapper's success, in fact, depends upon his axe ; and on this being
lost or broken, he necessarily relinquishes his labours, and returns un-
successful. I was surprised at seeing the celerity with which these
axes are made. Fifty of them, it is said, can be manufactured in a
day, and twenty-five are accounted an ordinary day's work. They
are eagerly sought after by the Indians, who are very particular that
the axe should have a certain shape, somewhat like a tomahawk.

From the mill we crossed over to one of the sheep-walks on the high
prairie. The soil on this is a light sandy loam, which yields a plentiful
crop of columbine, lupine, and cammass-flowers. Throughout these
upper prairies, in places, are seen growing pines of gigantic dimensions
and towering height, with their branches drooping to the ground, with
clumps of oaks, elders, and maple. These prairies have such an air
of being artificially kept in order, that they never cease to create sur-
prise, and it is difficult to believe that the hand of taste and refinement
has not been at work upon them.

On our way back to Vancouver, we met the droves of horses and
cattle that they were driving to the upper prairie, on account of the
rise of the river, and the consequent flooding of the low grounds.
This was quite an interesting sight. A certain number of brood mares
are assigned to each horse ; and the latter, it is said, is ever mindful
of his troop, and prevents them from straying. An old Indian is em-
ployed to watch the horses, who keeps them constant company, and is
quite familiar with every individual of his charge. We reached the
fort just at sunset, after a ride of twenty miles. It was such a sunset
as reminded me of home : the air was mild, and a pleasant breeze pre-
vailed from the west ; Mount Hood showed itself in all its glory, rising
out of the purple haze with which the landscape was shrouded.

On this night, (29th May,) the waters of the Columbia took a rise
of eighteen inches in ten hours, and apprehensions were entertained
that the crops on the lower prairie would be destroyed. The usual
time for the highest rise of the river is in the middle of June, but the
heat of the spring and summer is supposed to have caused its rise
sooner this year.

The crop of wheat of the last year had been partially destroyed,

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER. 337

causing a loss of a thousand bushels. Although the Columbia does
not overflow its banks any where except in the lower prairie, there are
quicksands in these, through which the water, before it reaches the
height of .the embankment, percolates, and rises on the low parts of the
prairie. In consequence of the low temperature of the water, as I
have before observed, it chills and destroys the grain.

I witnessed the Columbia at its greatest and least heights, and no
idea can be formed of it unless seen at both these epochs. The flood
is a very grand sight from the banks of the river at Vancouver, as it
passes swiftly by, bearing along the gigantic forest trees, whose im-
mense trunks appear as mere chips. They frequently lodge for a time,
in which case others are speedily caught by them, which obstructing
the flow of the water, form rapids, until by a sudden rush the whole
is borne ofl' to the ocean, and in time lodged by the currents on some
remote and savage island, to supply the natives with canoes. I also
witnessed the undermining of large trees on the banks, and occasional
strips of soil : thus does the river yearly make inroads on its banks,
and changes in its channels.

From the circumstance of this annual inundation of the river
prairies, they will always be unfit for husbandry, yet they are admi-
rably adapted for grazing, except during the periods of high water.
There is no precaution that can prevent the inroad of the water. At
Vancouver they were at the expense of throwing up a long embank-
ment of earth, but without the desired effect. It has been found that
the crop of grain suffers in proportion to the quantity of the stalk im-
mersed : unless the wheat is completely covered, a partial harvest may
be expected.

The temperature of the waters of the Columbia, during the months
of May and June, was 42°, while in September it had increased to 68°.

The waters of the Columbia have no fertilizing qualities, which is
remarkable when the extent of its course is considered : on the con-
trary, it is said, from experience, to deteriorate and exhaust the soil.
It is, when taken up, quite clear, although it has a turbid look as it
flows by. Quantities of fine sand are however borne along, and being
deposited in the eddies, rapidly form banks, which alter the channel in
places to a great degree.

During my stay at Vancouver, I had a visit from three of a party of
eight young Americans, who were desirous of leaving the country, but
could not accomplish it in any other way but by building a vessel.
They were not dissatisfied with the territory, but they would not settle
themselves down in it, because there were no young women to marry,
except squaws or half-breeds. They informed me that they were then

VOL. iv. an 43

338

NISQUALLY AND COLUMBIA RIVER.

engaged in building a vessel on the Oak Islands in the Willamette ;
where I promised to visit them on my way up the river.

I found them in difficulty with Dr. M'Laughlin, who had refused
to furnish them with any more supplies, in consequence, as he stated,
of their having obtained those already given them under false pre-
tences.

INDIAN MODE OF ROCKING CRADLE.

CHAPTER X.

CONTENTS.

DEPARTURE FROM VANCOUVER — BANKS OF THE WILLAMETTE — BOAT BUILDERS —
OAK ISLANDS — FALLS OF THE WILLAMETTE — MISSIONARIES — SALMON -FISHERY —
INDIAN VILLAGE— FLOODS OF THE RIVER— CHAMPOOING— MR. JOHNSON AND OTHER
SETTLERS — THEIR DESIRE FOR LAWS — MICHEL LA FRAMBOISE — MR. BACHELET —
METHODIST MISSION — DR. BABCOCK — LANDS OF THE MISSION — CONFERENCE IN
RELATION TO LAWS— VISIT THE " MILL"— PLANS OF THE MISSIONARIES-MR. HINES'S
SELECTION OF LAND — EXTENT OF THE MISSIONARY FIELD — CROSSING OF THE
WILLAMETTE— O'NEILL'S FARM— YAM HILLS— GAY'S RESIDENCE AND CHARACTER —
FARM OF A SON OF DR. M'LAUGHLIN-FLOODS— YOUNG'S FARM-CATTLE IMPORTED
FROM CALIFORNIA — BONES OF THE MASTODON — RETURN TO CHAMPOOING —VISIT
FROM THE SETTLERS — ROCKY RIDGE — DR. BAILEY'S FARM— MRS. BAILEY— INDIAN
TREATMENT OF THE SICK— WALKER'S FARM — BOAT BUILDERS' CAMP— RETURN TO
VANCOUVER— MR. OGDEN AND HIS VOYAGEURS— NORTHERN POSTS OF THE COMPANY
—ADVANTAGES OF THE TERRITORY FOR GRAZING— PRICE OF CATTLE — VALUE OF
LABOUR — ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF THE WILLAMETTE COUNTRY —
HABITS AND SPECIES OF THE SALMON— DWELLINGS OF THE INDIANS— THEIR GAMES
OF CHANCE— KLACKAMUS VILLAGE— THEIR MODE OF BURIAL— THEIR MEDICINE-MEN—
INDIAN PREJUDICES— THEY CAUSE THE MURDER OF MR. BLACK— MR. OGDEN OFFERS
A CONVEYANCE TO COWLITZ — CHIEF OF AN EXTINCT TRIBE— REASONS FOR THE
DECAY OF THE INDIAN POPULATION — DEPARTURE FROM VANCOUVER— EMBARKA-
TION ON THE COLUMBIA— ENTRANCE INTO, THE COWLITZ— ARRIVAL AT COWLITZ
FARM— MR. FORREST AND THE CHRONOMETER— CHICKEELES RIVER AND INDIANS-
RETURN TO NISQUALLY.

(339)

CHAPTER X.

WILLAMETTE VALLEY.
1841.

ON the 3d of June, we had made arrangements for leaving Van-
couver, and proceeding up the Willamette ; but the weather was so
stormy, that we deferred our departure until the following day.

Dr. M'Laughlin had kindly furnished us with a large boat, and,
although we had provided ourselves with provisions, we found in her
a large basket filled with every thing that travellers could need, or
kindness suggest.

The barge in which we embarked was one that usually carried
freight ; but it had been fitted up with seats for our use, so that we
found ourselves extremely comfortable, and our jaunt was much more
pleasant than if we had been confined to a small canoe. These flat-
bottom boats are capable of carrying three hundred bushels of wheat,
and have but a small draft of water ; when well manned, they are as
fast as the canoes, and are exceedingly well adapted to the navigation
of the river : they are also provided with large tarpawlings to protect
their cargo from the weather.

From Vancouver we floated down with the current to the upper
mouth of the Willamette, which we entered, and before night passed
the encampment of the Rev. Jason Lee, principal of the Methodist
Mission in Oregon, who was on his way to Clatsop, at the mouth of
the Columbia. We stopped with him for an hour. He was accom-
panied by his wife, Mr. and Mrs. Whitwell, and two or three children.
Their encampment was close to the river, and consisted of two small
tents. Mr. Lee gave us a warm invitation to visit the settlement on
the Willamette, thus forestalling our intentions to do so.

The musquitoes and sand-flies were so annoying, that we were

2D2 (341)

342 WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

glad to seek for higher ground to encamp on, for the purpose of
escaping them.

The Willamette river is generally about one-fourth of a mile wide.
For the distance of four miles from its entrance into the Columbia its
banks are low, and during the rise of the latter are overflowed, its
waters being backed into the Willamette. There is little current to
contend with in this river during this season. After passing this low
ground, the banks become high and precipitous, and are in only a few
places susceptible of cultivation.

We encamped on the island occupied by the young Americans, of
whom I spoke in the preceding chapter, and close to the place where
they were building their vessel. The group of which it is one, is called
the Oak Islands.

On landing, we were introduced to them all. They had reached
the Oregon country by crossing the Rocky Mountains, a year before,
and worked on the Willamette, where they first proposed to settle
themselves ; but they found that that was out of the question, as there
was little or no prospect of their being contented, and they were
now bent upon leaving the country at all hazards. Every one with
whom I spoke gave them a good character, except one, and I found
that, shortly after my visit, he had been turned out of the partner-
ship.

The vessel they were building was a small schooner. One of their
number having served a short time in a ship-yard in the United States,
the rest were employed as his assistants, cutting timber and preparing
the plank, which they procured from the cedar on the banks of the
river.

I explained to them the cause of Dr. M'Laughlin's refusal to assist
them, which they denied most positively. I then told them it was
proper for them to deny having authorized any trick or deception, on
doing which I was sure they would receive any assistance that lay in
the power of Dr. M'Laughlin. This they subsequently did, and I was
informed that they then received all the aid he had it in his power to
give.

I tried to dissuade these young men from making their voyage; for I
found, on conversing with them, that not one of them knew any thing
about the sailing of a vessel or navigation. I therefore knew how
great dangers they would experience on the voyage even to California,
whither they intended to go, with the intention of taking sea-otter by
the way on the coast of Oregon. After their arrival at San Francisco
it was their plan to sell their vessel and cargo, if they were fortu-
nate enough to obtain any, or if not, to go down the coast further,

WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

when they would cross over the country, and return by the way o<*
Mexico or Texas.

It gave me much pleasure to see the buoyancy of spirit, so truly
characteristic of our countrymen, with which they carried on their
plan.

Before I left the Columbia in September, they asked me for a sea-
letter for their protection ; at the same time informing me that their
vessel was launched, met their expectations, and was called the " Star
of Oregon."

The grove of oak on this island was beautiful, forming an extensive
wood, with no undergrowth. The species that grows here is a white-
oak, of very close grain. Its specific gravity is much greater than
water; and it is used for the purposes to which we apply both oak and
hickory. It makes excellent hoops for casks, and is the only timber
of this region that is considered durable.

The next morning, I left the boat-builders, after assuring them that
they should have all the assistance I could give them in their outfit.

After we had embarked, we were told by our guide, Plumondon,
that he had with him saddles and bridles, and orders for horses, &c.,'
in order that we might meet with no delay or inconvenience in our
trip up the Willamette. I felt these kind attentions and the manner
they were bestowed ; and it gives me great pleasure to acknowledge
how much we were benefited by them.

Early on the morning of the 5th, we set out for the falls of the
Willamette. As they are approached, the river becomes much nar-
rower ; and the banks, which are of trap rock, more precipitous. This
river is navigable for small vessels, even at its lowest stage, as high as
the mouth of the Klackamus, three miles below its falls. In the low
state of the river, there is a rapid at the Klackamus.

We reached the falls about noon, where we found the missionary
station under the charge of the Rev. Mr. Waller. The Hudson Bay
Company have a trading-post here, and are packing fish, which the
Indians catch in great quantities. This is said to be one of the best
salmon-fisheries on the river.

There was a petty dispute between Mr. Waller and the Company,
and he complained of them. It seems that the Company refuse to buy
any beaver-skins, except from the hunters and trappers ; and he accuses
them of monopoly in consequence. The Company, on the other hand,
say that they have no idea of selling goods out of their own stores, for
the purpose of enabling others to enter into competition with them ; and
that they will spare no expense to keep the trade, as long as they can,
in their own hands. This is certainly not unfair. I cannot help feeling

344 WILLAMETTEVALLEY.

it is quite unsuited to the life of a missionary, to be entering into trade
of any kind. To embark in traffic must, I think, tend to destroy the
usefulness of a missionary, or divert his attention from the great cause
in which he is engaged. I am very far from attaching any blame on
this account to the missionaries, whose avowed object is to teach the
arts of civilization, as well as the Word of God, and I have no doubt
that they are doing all in their power to promote the latter object ; but
I am disposed to think, that any complaints against the Hudson Bay
Company for endeavouring to keep the trade in their own hands, comes
with an ill grace from the members of a mission who are daily receiving
the kindest attentions and hospitality from its officers.

Mr. Waller and his wife gave us a kind welcome, and insisted upon
our taking dinner with them. As they have no servants, Mrs. Waller
prepared the dinner, while Mr. Waller took care of the out-door
business. Though the house was built of rough materials, it was very
evident that neatness and order prevailed. Her management of the
home-made cooking-stove which stood in the room, claimed my admi-
ration. At the same time she made herself quite agreeable ; and although
she had many, very many things to contend with, appeared quite satis-
fied with her lot and condition.

After we had partaken of our dinner, consisting of salmon and tea,
with bread and butter, Mr. Waller took us to see the falls. On our
way thither, he pointed out a log house that had been built by the
agent of Mr. Slacum, in order to secure the right of site or mill-privi-
leges. The Hudson Bay Company have gone to considerable expense
in blasting the rock for a mill-race for the same purpose ; but from
appearances, this work has remained untouched for several years.

The falls of Willamette are about twenty feet in height, and probably
offer the best mill-sites of any place in the neighbouring country. Being
at the head of navigation for sea-vessels, and near the great wheat-
growing valley of the Willamette, it must be a place of great resort. A
Mr. Moore, from the Western States, whom I saw on the Willamette,
informed me that he had taken possession of the west side of the falls,
under a purchase from an old Indian chief. Whether such titles will
be recognised by the government, is already a matter of speculation in
the country ; and there is much talk of pre-emption rights, &c.

At the time of our visit to the falls, the salmon-fishery was at its
height, and was to us a novel as well as an amusing scene. The
salmon leap the fall ; and it would be inconceivable, if not actually
witnessed, how they can force themselves up, and after a leap of from
ten to twelve feet retain strength enough to stem the force of the water
above. About one in ten of those who jumped, would succeed in

WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

345

getting by. They are seen to dart out of the foam beneath and reach
about two-thirds of the height, at a single bound : those that thus
passed the apex of the running water, succeed ; but all that fell short,
were thrown back again into the foam. I never saw so many fish
collected together before ; and the Indians are constantly employed in
taking them. They rig out two stout poles, long enough to project
over the foaming cauldron, and secure their larger ends to the rocks.
On the outer end they make a platform for the fisherman to stand on,
who is perched on it with a pole thirty feet long in hand, to which the
net is fastened by a hoop four feet in diameter: the net is made to slide
on the hoop, so as to close its mouth when the fish is taken. The mode
of using the net is peculiar : they throw it into the foam as far up the
stream as they can reach, and it being then quickly carried down, the
fish who are running up in a contrary direction, are caught Some-
times twenty large fish are taken by a single person in an hour ; and
it is only surprising that twice as many should not be caught.

WILLAMETTE FALLS.

The river at the falls is three hundred and fifty yards wide, and its
greatest fall twenty-five feet. When the water is not very high, the
rapids begin some distance above the falls. Some of the Indians are
in the habit of coming down in canoes to the brink of the falls, where
they secure themselves by thrusting down poles in the crevices of the

VOL. iv. 44

346 WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

rock. There they take many fish, that have succeeded in passing the
lower fall, with a hook fastened to the end of a pole. These are
esteemed to be of the best flavour, as they are the strongest and
fattest. It is said from these places the fish can be seen very dis-
tinctly passing up, and are taken very rapidly ; but few Indians are
willing or expose themselves to the risk of fishing there. The number
of Indians at the Willamette Falls during the fishing season, is about
seventy, including all ages and sexes : there are others who visit the
falls in canoes for fish, which at times will raise the number to not far
from one hundred. Those fish which are unable to get up, remain
some time at the falls, very much exhausted, and finally resort to the
smaller streams below. Mr. Drayton's sketch of the scene is given in
the vignette.

The rocks here change their character within a few miles. Much
volcanic scoria, vesicular lava, and pudding-stone, intermingled with
blocks of trap, and many crystals of quartz, occur. My attention was
called to this particularly by old Mr. Moore, who had set up his claims
to the west side of the falls, communicating to me in confidence that
he intended to erect furnaces for smelting iron, &c. Although I saw
the old man some time afterwards, and told him of his mistake, he
would not believe that he had been in error. On the rocks are to be
seen large knots of lamprey eels, worming themselves up, which make
them look at a little distance as if alive with snakes.

After spending some time at the falls, we returned to the house, and
thence passed over to the west side of the river in a boat. Plumondon
informed us that all our baggage had been transported over the portage,
which is about a third of a mile in length.

On landing, we passed through an Indian village, which was abso-
lutely swarming with fleas ; a filthier place cannot be found in Oregon.
Before we reached our boat, a heavy shower of rain overtook us, and
gave us a good drenching; we, however, embarked for Camp Maude
du Sable. We now found our progress very different from what we
had made below the falls : the current was strong, and we made but
little headway; our boatmen being intent upon taking advantage of
the smallest eddies, we were continually crossing and recrossing the
river for this purpose. The banks had become much higher and more
picturesque. This part of the river is considered dangerous when the
water is high, and accidents frequently occur; for this reason, the
Indians in passing are still in the habit of making a propitiatory offering
of some of their food, such as dried salmon or peas, in order that they
may have a safe passage by. Before night we encamped just above

WILLAMETTE VALLEY. 347

the Stony Islands, on a barren point of land, at some height above the
river, where we found several mosses in flower, which we had not met
with before.

At this season of the year, the river is not high : its rise usually
takes place in February and March, when it becomes very much
swollen, and with its tributaries does much damage. These floods,
however, are of very short duration, for the descent is so rapid that
the waters are soon discharged. It was raining quite hard when we
passed Camp Maude du Sable, a sandy point just at the opening out
of the Willamette Valley, which was one of the points originally
occupied when the river was first explored by the whites. About two
miles further up the river is Champooing, eighteen miles above the
falls, which we reached at about 4 p. M. Here we found a few log
houses, one of which belonged to a Mr. Johnson, who gave us a
hearty welcome. Mr. Johnson was formerly a trapper in the Hudson
Bay Company's service, but has begun to farm here. He invited us
to take up our quarters with him, and although they were not very
pleasant in appearance, we thought it better to accept the invitation
than to pitch our tents on the wet ground in the rain. To reach his
dwelling, we passed through water over our shoes. The house had
little the appearance of belonging to a white man, but his welcome
made amends for many things. We were soon installed in his bed-
room, where, in looking round, my eye was arrested by a print of the
capture of the frigate Guerriere by the Constitution, which led me to
speak concerning it, when I found he had been in that action. This at
once made us old friends, for I found him familiar with the character
of all our naval men, and I had much pleasure in listening to his
anecdotes, and hearing him speak in high terms of many of those
officers to whom I feel personally attached. It was delightful to hear
his unvarnished account of Commodore Hull's coolness and conduct
in the action. Johnson asked many questions about the young officers
he had known. I was equally diverted with his own adventures.
Finding, after the excitement of war was over, he could not be con-
tent to lead a quiet life, he determined to adopt the business of trapping.
In this he was engaged until the last few years, when he had settled
himself down here, and taken an Indian girl for his wife, by whom he
had several children. To the latter he said he was desirous of giving
a good education, and for this purpose he had engaged old Mr. Moore,
from Illinois, to pass several months with him. Johnson had all the
easy and independent character of a trapper; yet I could still per-
ceive that he had hanging about him somewhat of the feeling of disci-
pline that he had acquired in the service. His Indian wife is extremely

318 WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

useful in making every thing, besides taking care of the household
concerns, and is rather pretty. Johnson's estimate of her was that
she was worth "half a dozen civilized wives." There is little clean-
liness, however, about his house, and many of the duties are left to
two young male slaves, of Indian blood, but of what tribe I did not
learn. Johnson's farm consists of about forty acres under cultivation :
his wheat and potatoes were flourishing, and he had a tolerable
kitchen-garden. He has some little stock, but complained much of the
Oregon tiger, or American panther. These voracious animals are
numerous and bold : the night before we arrived, they had entered the
pen and killed a calf, regardless of the dogs; and an alarm was
given on the night of our stay, when all the guns were in requisition,
and noise enough was made in getting ready, to scare away dozens of
them.

We were informed that there are plenty of elk, and deer, and that
the grizzly bear is also common. The flesh of the latter animal is
very much esteemed. Wild ducks and geese are quite numerous in
the spring and fall, covering the rivers, lakes, and ponds.

There are four houses and three lodges in sight of Johnson's farm,
whence all the neighbours called to see us. They were just the sort
of men one would expect to see in such a place. One was an old
man by the name of Cannon, who had been one of the party with
Lewis and Clarke, and was from his own account the only remaining
one in the country. He likes the country, and says he thinks there
is no necessity for Dr. M'Laughlin's authority or laws to govern it.

Old Moore had some shrewdness, and was exceedingly talkative;
he possessed much information in relation to the country he had passed
through, which I found to correspond to what I have since received
from other sources. He had crossed the mountains the year before,
and found no difficulty in making the trip. He intends to return and
bring out his family? being of opinion that the country is a fine one,
and exceedingly healthy, and that it will compare well with the lands
of Missouri and Illinois. The great objection to the upper country,
on the route by which we travelled, was the want of wood.

Another of these men was named George Gay, of whom I shall
speak hereafter.

We found this, as I said before, a dirty house : the people were idle
and fond of lounging, and all I have yet seen are uncombed and un-
shaved.

These people were quite alive on the subject of laws, courts, and
magistrates, including governors, judges, &c. I was here informed
that a committee had been appointed to wait upon me on my arrival

WILLAMETTE VALLEY. 349

at the mission, to hold a consultation relative to the establishment of
settled governments. Johnson, trapper-like, took what I thought the
soundest view, saying that they yet lived in the bush, and let all do
right, there was no necessity for laws, lawyers, or magistrates.

Having our camp equipage with us, together with plenty of pro-
visions, our servant managed without putting him or his wife to much
inconvenience ; and although we passed an uncomfortable night, fight-
ing with the fleas, yet we both agreed it was better than if we had
been in our tents.

In the morning we found horses waiting, under charge of Michel
La Framboise, who is in the employ of the Company, and was very
happy to see us. He originally came out in the ship Tonquin, and
was one of the party that landed at Astoria, where he has resided ever
since, either in the employ of the Northwest or Hudson Bay Com-
pany. Michel is of low stature, and rather corpulent, but he has
great energy and activity of both mind and body, indomitable courage,
and all the vivacity of a Frenchman. He has travelled in all parts of
the country, and says that he has a wife of high rank in every tribe,
by which means he has insured his safety. From him I derived
much information, and to him all parties refer as possessing the most
accurate knowledge of the country. He generally has charge of a
party, and was formerly engaged in trapping ; but of late years pass-
ing through the country to California and back. Had it not been for
his proneness to dissipation, I am informed he would have risen in
the Company's service. To me he complained that he had not re-
ceived what he considered his due, and that he was no better off than
twenty years before, saying, " he was still Michel La Framboise, only
older."

I was glad to meet with a guide of such intelligence ; and having
mounted our horses, we rode through the Willamette Valley. In it
we passed many small farms, of from fifty to one hundred acres,
belonging to the old servants of the Company, Canadians, who have
settled here : they all appear very comfortable and thriving. We stop-
ped for a few hours at the Catholic Mission, twelve miles from Cham-
pooing, to call upon the Rev. Mr. Bachelet, to whom I had a note of
introduction, from Dr. M'Laughlin, and who received me with great
kindness. Mr. Bachelet is here settled among his flock, and is doing
great good to the settlers in ministering to their temporal as well as
spiritual wants.

He spoke to me much about the system of laws the minority of the
settlers were desirous of establishing, but which he had objected to,
and advised his people to refuse to co-operate in; for he was of opinion

2E

350

WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

that the number of settlers in the Willamette Valley would not war-
rant the establishment of a constitution, and as far as his people were
concerned there was certainly no necessity for one, nor had he any
knowledge of crime having been yet committed.

Annexed to Mr. Bachelet's house is a small chapel, fully capable of
containing the present congregation.

They are erecting a large and comfortable house for Mr. Bachelet,
after which it is intended to extend the chapel. These houses are
situated on the borders of an extensive level prairie, which is very
fertile, having a rich deep alluvial soil ; they also have near them a
forest of pine, oak, &c. They are now occupied in turning up the
fields for the first time. Mr. Bachelet informed me that it was in-
tended to take enough of land under cultivation to supply a large com-
munity, that will be attached to the mission; for it is the intention to
establish schools here, for the instruction of the Indians as well as the
Canadians and other settlers. He has already ten Indian children
under his care. Mr. Bachelet informed me that, the mission had been
established about a year, and that it had already done much good.
When he first arrived all the settlers were living with Indian women,
whom they have since married, and thus legalized the connexion.
This was the first step he had taken towards their moral improvement,
and he had found it very successful. There were about thirty Cana-
dian families settled here, besides about twenty persons who have no
fixed residence, and are labourers. The number of Indians is esti-
mated at between four and five hundred, including all tribes, sexes,
and ages. The district under Mr. Bachelet's superintendence takes
in about fifty square miles, including the Willamette Valley, Faulitz,
and Yam-Hill Plains, and extending below the Willamette Falls as
far as the Klackamus river. The number of white residents, in-
cluding the missionaries of both denominations, is thought to be about
sixty.

Mr. Drayton, Michel, and myself, dined with Mr. Bachelet, on
oatmeal porridge, venison, strawberries, and cream. This hospitality
was tendered with good and kind feelings, and with a gentlemanly
deportment that spoke much in his favour, and made us regret to leave
his company so soon.

When we reached Michel's house, he left us, finding there was no
further need for his services, as we were now accompanied by Plu-
mondon, Johnson, George Gay, and one or two other guides, with
horses.

We soon after came to some American and English settlers, and
then entered on the grounds of the Methodist Mission. One of the

W I L L A M E T T E V A L L E Y. 351

first sights that caught my eye was a patent threshing machine in the
middle of the road, that seemed to have been there for a length of time
totally neglected.

We rode on to the log houses which the Messrs. Lee built when
they first settled here. In the neighbourhood are the wheelright's and
blacksmith's, together with their work-shops, belonging to the mission,
and, about a mile to the east, the hospital, built by Dr. White, who
was formerly attached to this mission. I was informed by many of
the settlers that this gentleman had rendered very essential service to
this district. His connexion with the mission was dissolved when he
returned to the United States.*

The hospital is now used for dwellings by some of the missionaries.
It is, perhaps, the best building in Oregon, and accommodates at
present four families: it is a well-built frame edifice, with a double
piazza in front. Mr. Abernethy and his wife entertained us kindly.
He is the secular agent of the mission. Order and neatness prevail in
their nice apartments, where they made us very comfortable, and gave
us such hospitality as we should receive at home. It seemed an out-
of-the-way place to find persons of delicate habits, struggling with
difficulties such as they have to encounter, and overcoming them with
cheerfulness and good temper.

Near the hospital are two other houses, built of logs, in one of which
Dr. Babcock, the physician of the mission, lives.

We paid Dr. Babcock a visit in the evening, and found him com-
fortably lodged. He stated to me that the country was healthy,
although during the months of August and September, they were
subject to fever and ague on the low grounds, but in high and dry
situations he believed they would be free from it. A few other diseases
existed, but they were of a mild character, and readily yielded to
simple remedies. He is also of opinion that the fever and ague becomes
milder each season, as the individuals become acclimated.

The lands of the Methodist Mission are situated on the banks of the
Willamette river, on a rich plain adjacent to fine forests of oak and
pine. They are about eight miles beyond the Catholic Mission, conse-
quently eighteen miles from Champooing, in a southern direction.
Their fields are well enclosed, and we passed a large one of wheat,
which we understood was self-sown by the last year's crop, which had
been lost through neglect. The crop so lost amounted to nearly a
thousand bushels, and it is supposed that this year's crop will yield
twenty-five bushels to the acre. About all the premises of this mission

* Dr. White has since returned to Oregon, in the capacity of Indian Agent.

352 WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

there was an evident want of the attention required to keep things in
repair, and an absence of neatness that I regretted much to witness.
We had the expectation of getting a sight of the Indians on whom they
were inculcating good habits and teaching the word of God; but with
the exception of four Indian servants, we saw none since leaving the
Catholic Mission. On inquiring, I was informed that they had a school
of twenty pupils, some ten miles distant, at the mill; that there were
but few adult Indians in the neighbourhood ; and that their intention
and principal hope was to establish a colony, and by their example to
induce the white settlers to locate near those over whom they trusted
to exercise a moral and religious influence.

A committee of five, principally lay members of the mission, waited
upon me to consult and ask my advice relative to the establishment of
laws, &c. After hearing attentively all their arguments and reasons
for this change, I could see none sufficiently strong to induce the step.
No crime appears yet to have been committed, and the persons and
property of settlers are secure. Their principal reasons appear to me
to be, that it would give them more importance in the eyes of others at
a distance, and induce settlers to flock in, thereby raising the value of
their farms and stock. I could not view this subject in such a light,
and differed with them entirely as to the necessity or policy of adopting
the change.

1st. On account of their want of right, as those wishing for laws
were, in fact, a small minority of the settlers.

2d. That these were not yet necessary even by their own account.

3d. That any laws they might establish would be a poor substitute
for the moral code they all now followed, and that evil-doers would
not be disposed to settle near a community entirely opposed to their
practices.

4th. The great difficulty they would have in enforcing any laws,
and defining the limits over which they had control, and the discord
this might occasion in their small community.

5th. They not being the majority, and the larger part of the popu-
lation being Catholics, the latter would elect officers of their party, and
they would thus place themselves entirely under the control of others.

6th. The unfavourable impressions it would produce at home, from
the belief that the missions had admitted that in a community brought
together by themselves they had not enough of moral force to control
it and prevent crime, and therefore must have recourse to a crirnin J
code.

From my own observation and the information I had obtained, I
was well satisfied that laws were not needed, and were not desired

WILLAMETTE VALLEY. 353

by the Catholic portion of the settlers. I therefore could not avoid
drawing their attention to the fact, that after all the various officers
they proposed making were appointed, there would be no subjects
for the law to deal with. I further advised them to wait until the
government of the United States should throw its mantle over them.
These views, I was afterwards told, determined a postponement of their
intentions.

Dr. Babcock and others, myself and officers, were tendered an invi-
tation from the American settlers of the Willamette, to partake of a
4th of July dinner with them, which I was obliged to decline, on
account of the various duties that pressed upon us.

The next day the gentlemen of the mission proposed a ride to what
they term " the Mill," distant about nine miles, in a southeast direction.

We passed, in going thither, several fine prairies, both high and low.
The soil on the higher is of a gravelly or light nature, while on the
lower it is a dark loam, intermixed with a bluish clay. The prairies
are at least one-third greater in extent than the forest : they were again
seen carpeted with the most luxuriant growth of flowers, of the richest
tints of red, yellow, and blue, extending in places a distance of fifteen
to twenty miles.

The timber we saw consisted of the live and white oak, cedar, pine,
and fir.

We reached "the Mill" by noon, which consists of a small grist and
saw mill on the borders of an extensive prairie. They are both under
the same roof, and are worked by a horizontal wheel. The grist-mill
will not grind more than ten bushels a day ; and during the whole
summer both mills are idle, for want of water, the stream on which
they are situated being a very small one, emptying into the Willamette.
We found here two good log houses, and about twenty lay members,
mechanics, of the mission under Mr. Raymond, who is the principal
at the mills. There are, besides, about twenty-five Indian boys, who,
I was told, were not in a condition to be visited or inspected. Those
whom I saw were nearly grown up, ragged and half-clothed, lounging
about under the trees. Their appearance was any thing but pleasing
and satisfactory ; and I must own I was greatly disappointed, for I
had been led to expect that order and neatness at least would have
been found among them, considering the strong force of missionaries
engaged here.

From the number of persons about the premises, this little spot had
the air and stir of a new secular settlement ; and I understood that
it is intended to be the permanent location of the mission, being
considered more healthy than the bank of the Willamette. The

VOL. IV. 2E2 45

354 WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

missionaries, as they told me, have made individual selections of lands
to the amount of one thousand acres each, in prospect of the whole
country falling under our laws.

We received an invitation from Mr. Raymond to take dinner, which
we accepted ; previous to which, I rode about two miles, to the situa-
tion selected by the Rev. Mr. Hines, in company with that gentleman.
On our way, he pointed out to me the site selected for the seminary,
&c. We found Mr. Hines's family encamped under some oak trees,
in a beautiful prairie, to which place he had but just removed; he
intended putting up his house at once, and they had the ordinary com-
forts about them. We returned, and found the table well spread with
good things, consisting of salmon, pork, potted cheese, strawberries
and cream, and nice hot cakes, and an ample supply for the large
company.

We were extremely desirous of obtaining information relative to the
future plans of these missionaries as to teaching and otherwise for-
warding the civilization of the Indian boys ; but from all that we could
learn from the missionaries, as well as lay members, my impression
was, that no fixed plan of operations has yet been digested ; and I was
somewhat surprised to hear them talking of putting up extensive build-
ings for missionary purposes, when it is fully apparent that there is but
a very limited field for spiritual operations in this part of the country.
The number now attached and under tuition are probably all that can
be converted, and it does not exceed the number of those attached to
the mission. I was exceedingly desirous of drawing their attention to
the tribes of the north, which are a much more numerous and hardier
race, with a healthy climate. It is true that a mission station has been
established at Nisqually, but they are doing nothing with the native
tribes, and that post is only on the borders of many larger tribes to the
northward. As the holders of a charge, committed to their hands by
a persevering and enlightened class of Christians at home, who are
greatly interested in their doings and actions, they will be held respon-
sible for any neglect in the great cause they have undertaken to
advance, and in which much time and money have already been
spent.

That all may judge of the extent of this field of missionary labours
I will enumerate the numbers of Indians within its limits. Nisqually,
two hundred ; Clatsop, two hundred and nine; Chinooks, two hundred
and twenty; Kilamukes, four hundred; Callapuyas, six hundred;
Dalles, two hundred and fifty: say in all this district, two thousand
Indians; and this field is in part occupied by the Catholics, as I have
before stated. Of these, the Methodist missionaries have under their

WILLAMETTEVALLEY. 355

instruction, if so it may be called, twenty-five at the Willamette
station ; at the Dalles, and occasionally on the Klackamus river, are
the only places where divine service is attempted. I would not have
it understood that by these remarks I have any desire to throw blame
on those who direct or are concerned in this missionary enterprise, or
to make any imputations on the labourers ; but I feel it a duty I owe
my countrymen, to lay the truth before them, such as we saw it. I
am aware that the missionaries come out to this country to colonize,
and with the Christian religion as their guide and law, to give the
necessary instruction, and hold out inducements to the Indians to quit
their wandering habits, settle, and become cultivators of the soil. This
object has not been yet attained in any degree, as was admitted by the
missionaries themselves; and how it is to be effected without having
constantly around them large numbers, and without exertions and
strenuous efforts, I am at a loss to conceive. I cannot but believe,
that the same labour and money which have been expended here,
would have been much more appropriately and usefully spent among
the tribes about the Straits of Juan de Fuca, who are numerous, and
fit objects for instruction.

At the Rev. Mr. Hines's I had another long conversation relative to
the laws, &c. The only instance (which speaks volumes for the good
order of the settlers), of any sort of crime being committed since the
foundation of the settlement, was the stealing of a horse ; and a settler
who had been detected stealing his neighbour's pigs, by enticing them
to his house, dropping them into his cellar, where they were slaughtered
and afterwards eaten. The theft was discovered by the numbers of
bones frequently found around his premises. He was brought to a
confession, and compelled to pay the value of the stolen hogs, simply
by the force of public opinion.

We took leave of Mr. Raymond and his party, wishing them success
in their labours, and rode back over the fine prairies at a full gallop, in
the direction that seemed most convenient to save us distance. We
stopped for a short time to take leave of Mr. and Mrs. Abernethy, and
then passed to the site of the old mission on the banks of the Willa-
mette. The river here makes a considerable bend, and has undermined
and carried away its banks to some extent : a short distance beyond, it
is making rapid inroads into the rich soil of these bottom lands. The
log houses have the character that all old log houses acquire, and I was
warned, if I desired to pass a comfortable night, to avoid them.

This is the usual place of crossing the river, which is too deep to be
forded, and about two hundred yards wide. Its banks were twenty
feet high, and composed of stratified layers of alluvium. On the shore

356 WILLAMETTEVALLEY.

of the river, which consists of a shingle beach some two hundred feet
wide, are to be found cornelians, agates, and chalcedony, among the
loose pieces of basalt of which it is composed. The current was found
to run at the rate of three miles an hour, although the water was said
to be low. An old canoe was procured, in which we passed over,
while one of the horses was led, and swam by its side : the rest were
driven into the water, and followed to the opposite side. Here we met
George Gay, who was travelling with his Indian wife : he told us that
he would join us on our trip to the Yam Hills, which we proposed to
make the next day.

We found our camp established by Plumondon, near the residence
of Mr. O'Neill, formerly the property of the Rev. Mr. Leslie : it lies
about a mile from the river, in a pretty, oval prairie, containing about
three or four hundred acres, with a fine wood encircling it. Sixty of
these are under cultivation ; about forty in wheat, that was growing
luxuriantly.

Three years since, O'Neill came to the valley with only a shirt to his
back, as he expressed it : he began by working part of this farm, and
obtained the loan of cattle and other articles from Dr. M'Laughlin, all
of which he has, from the natural increase of his stock and out of his
crops, since repaid. He has bought the farm, has two hundred head of
stock, horses to ride on, and a good suit of clothes, all earned by his
own industry ; and he says it is only necessary for him to work one
month in the year to make a living: the rest of the time he may amuse
himself. He spoke in the highest terms of Dr. M'Laughlin, and the
generous aid he had afforded him in the beginning. This farm is the
best we have seen, in every respect ; and it is not only well arranged,
but has many advantages from its location. The success of O'Neill
is a proof of what good education and industrious habits will do, and it
is pleasing to see the happiness and consideration they produce. Mr.
O'Neill is also a mechanic, and has gained much of his wealth in that
way : he ploughs and reaps himself, and is assisted by a few Indians,
whom he has the tact to manage. He has a neat kitchen-garden, and
every thing that a person in his situation can desire.

The Rev. Mr. Leslie, who lives with O'Neill, invited us to the hospi-
tality of his roof, but we preferred our camp to putting him to any
inconvenience.

The next day (9th of June) we started for the Yam Hills, which
divide the valleys of the Willamette and Faulitz. They are of }>uf
moderate elevation : the tops are easily reached on horseback, and
every part of them which I saw was deemed susceptible of cultivation.
The soil is a reddish clay, and bears few marks of any wash from the

WILLAMETTE VALLEY. 357

rains. These hills are clothed to the very top with grass, and afford
excellent pasturage for cattle, of which many were seen feeding on
them. On our route through the Yam Hills, we passed many settlers'
establishments. From their top, the view is not unlike that from Mount
Holyoke, in Massachusetts, and the country appears as if it were as
much improved by the hand of civilization. The oak trees sprinkled
over the hills and bottoms have a strong resemblance to the apple-
orchards. The extent of country we looked over is from twenty-five to
thirty miles, all of which is capable of being brought to the highest state
of cultivation. There are in truth few districts like that of the valley
of the Faulitz.

We passed one or two brick-kilns, and finally reached the new resi-
dence of George Gay, one of the most remote on this side of the river.
George had reached home with his wife and two children not long
before us. His dwelling was to all appearance a good shanty, which
contains all his valuables. George is of that lazy kind of lounging
figure so peculiar to a backwoodsman or Indian. He has a pretty and
useful Indian wife, who does his bidding, takes care of his children and
horses, and guards his household and property. The latter is not
bulky, for superfluities with George are not to be found, and when he
and his wife and children are seen travelling, it is manifest that his all
is with him. George is a useful member of society in this small com-
munity: he gelds and marks cattle, breaks horses in, and tames cows
for milking, assists in finding and driving cattle, — in short, he under-
takes all and every sort of singular business ; few things are deemed
by him impossibilities ; and lastly, in the words of one of the settlers,
" George is not a man to be trifled or fooled with." I felt, when I had
him for my guide, that there were few difficulties he could not over-
come. He is full as much of an Indian in habits as a white man can
be. He told me he bore the Indians no love, and is indeed a terror to
them, having not unfrequently applied Lynch law to some of them with
much effect. The account he gave of himself is, that he was born of
English parents, but became, before he had grown up, more than half
Indian, and was now fully their match. I will add, that he is quite
equal to them in artifice. He passes for the best lasso-thrower in the
country, and is always ready to eat, sleep, or frolic: his wife and
children are to him as his trappings. He has with all this many good
points about him. I have seen him, while travelling with me, dart off
for half a mile to assist a poor Indian boy who was unable to catch his
horse, lasso the horse, put the boy on, and return at full gallop. All
this was done in a way that showed it to be his every-day practice ; and

358 WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

his general character throughout the settlement is, that George is ever
ready to help those in trouble.

On our return towards the road, we passed the farm of one of Dr.
M'Laughlin's sons, who has settled here, and has an extensive portion
of the prairie fenced in. This part of Willamette Valley is a prolonged
level, of miles in extent, circumscribed by the woods, which have the
appearance of being attended to and kept free from undergrowth. This
is difficult to account for, except through the agency of fire destroying
the seeds. The Indians are in the habit of burning the country yearly,
in September, for the purpose of drying and procuring the seeds of the
sunflower, which they are thus enabled to gather with more ease, and
which form a large portion of their food. That this is the case appears
more probable from the fact that since the whites have had possession
of the country, the undergrowth is coming up rapidly in places.

In passing through the Willamette, I had a good opportunity of
contrasting the settlers of different countries ; and, while those of
French descent appeared the most contented, happy, and comfortable,
those of the Anglo-Saxon race showed mpre of the appearance of
business, and the " go-ahead" principle so much in vogue at home.

The most perfect picture of content I saw was a French Canadian
by the name of La Bonte, on the Yam Hill river, who had been a long
time in the service of the Hudson Bay Company. This man was very
attentive to us, and assisted in getting our horses across the river,
which, though but a few rods wide, is yet deep and attended with
much difficulty in passing.

The sudden rises of this river are somewhat remarkable and difficult
to be accounted for, as there does not appear from the face of the
country to be much ground drained by it. The perpendicular height
of the flood is, at times, as much as thirty feet, which was marked
very distinctly on the trees growing on its banks.

Having heard that the farm of the late Mr. Young was the most
beautiful spot in this section of the country, I determined to visit it, and
for this purpose crossed the Yam Hills again. When we reached the
top, we again had a view of the Faulitz Plains, which were highly
picturesque. The hills here were covered, as we had found them
before, with wall-flowers, lupines, scilla, and quantities of ripe straw-
berries. Mr. Young's farm is situated in a valley, running east and
west, which seems to unite that of Willamette and Faulitz. The
situation did not meet my high-raised expectations, though it is fine.
Mr. Young was one of the first pioneers and settlers in this country
and met with much difficulty. At one time he was desirous of esta-

WILLAMETTE VALLEY. 359

Wishing a distillery, but through the influence of Mr. Slacum, who was
on a visit to Oregon as an agent of our government, he relinquished
the idea, notwithstanding he had already incurred considerable ex-
pense.

Mr. Young was, at the time, of opinion that unless they had cattle,
to which he believed the country was well adapted, they never coulcl
succeed in creating a successful settlement, and it was necessary to go
to considerable expense to obtain them from California, as the Hudson
Bay Company, or rather the Puget Sound Company, would not part
with any. Mr. Slacum generously offered to advance the money
necessary, and to give as many Americans as desired it, a free passage
to San Francisco, in California, there to purchase stock and to drive
them through to the Willamette. This was accordingly done, and
after many difficulties, the cattle reached the Willamette in 1839. Mr.
Young took charge of the share of Mr. Slacum, which then amounted
to twenty-three. Previous to our arrival on the Northwest Coast, we
heard from the United States of the death of Mr. Slacum, and on our
arrival there that of Mr. Young was also made known to me. The
funds and property of Mr. Young, by general consent of the settlers,
were put into the hands of the Rev. Mr. Leslie, who acted as adminis-
trator, and informed me that at the division of Mr. Young's cattle,
eighty-six had been put aside as the share of Mr. Slacum, after the
proportion of loss and accidents had been deducted, making the in-
crease in four years, sixty-three. Of these cattle no other care had
ever been taken than to drive them into the pens for protection at
night. Mr. Slacum's share was subsequently sold at the request of his
nephew, who wras a midshipman on board my ship, to Dr. M'Laughlin
for eight hundred and sixty dollars — ten dollars a head.

The Willamette is now, through the interest felt and advances made
by Mr. Slacum, well supplied with cattle, which are fast increasing in
numbers.

We found the farm of Mr. Young very much out of order, although
I understood that two persons had been put in charge of it on wages at
one dollar a day. The farm-house at which we stopped, was entirely
open, and every thing seemed to be going fast to ruin. Johnson, in
hunting about the premises, found a sick man, a native of the Sandwich
Islands, lying in a bunk. In a small kitchen half a pig was hanging
by its hind legs, roasting over a slow fire; and every thing seemed
in confusion. We did not stay long, but rode on to his saw-mill,
which we found in ruins. It was badly located, although erected at
much expense, for there was little timber of value in the neighbour-
hood. Shortly after Mr. Young's death the mill-dam was washed

360 WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

away, and there was no money to erect it again, even if it had been
thought desirable to do so. We found it wholly deserted. I was
desirous of having some further search made for the bones of a masto-
don, parts of whose skeleton had been obtained by Captain Goach,
master of a small vessel engaged in the salmon-fishery, a few months
before our arrival. On the locality being pointed out, I found that the
mass of the dam and other alluvial deposits had been heaped upon
the place, and created such an obstruction as would have rendered
their removal an herculean task, and have required some weeks'
labour.

Neither I nor my officers had time to spare to accomplish this task ;
besides, it was very probable that the bones, which had been repre-
sented to me as nearly denuded prior to the flood, had been washed
away and lost. The bank in which the bones were found is composed
of red marl and gravel.

After leaving the mill, we had a long ride before us ; for it was our
intention to reach Champooing before dark. The country, as we
approached that place, became much more thickly settled, and the
ground stony. Before dark we reached a deserted house, belonging
to George Gay, opposite to Champooing, and formerly occupied by
Mr. Young. Finding the stream difficult to cross, we determined to
take up our quarters in this house. About two miles from our stop-
ping-place, we passed some salt springs, to which the cattle and game
resort in great numbers : they are strongly saline, and cover a con-
siderable extent of ground. This is considered, as Johnson informed
me, the best grazing ground for their cattle.

In consequence of the baggage-horses and party losing their way,
they did not reach the camp until near midnight.

Shortly after our arrival, George Gay was employed "to break
in," as he called it, a cow for milking ! This operation, as performed
by George, however necessary, was not calculated to raise him in any
one's opinion, and therefore I shall not venture upon a description,
farther than to say, that the treatment the poor beast received was in
my opinion as unnecessary as it was cruel.

In the evening, we had a visit from Mr. Moore and several of the
other neighbours, and I was much amused with the various accounts
they gave of their trappers' life. I must here express the correct
views they entertained relative to the introduction of spirits into the
settlement. To my surprise, they seemed to be of an unanimous
opinion that spirituous liquors would soon destroy them ; and since
Mr. Slacum's visit they have entered into an agreement among them-
selves to forego their use. It is a wise determination, and as long as

WILLAMETTEVALLEY. 361

adhered to the country will thrive. But should this pest be introduced,
the vice of drunkenness will probably reach a height unknown else-
where ; for such is the ease with which a livelihood is gained here,
that persons may be supported, and indeed grow rich, in idleness.
According to the inhabitants, one month in a year of labour is all that
is required for a comfortable support. This labour consists in preparing
the ground, putting the seed into it, and when it is ripe, reaping the
harvest. Cattle, as I have before said, require no protection or care,
except to guard them from the wolves. Two-thirds of the time of the
settlers is consequently at their own disposal ; and unless education,
with its moral influence, is attended to strictly in this young settlement,
these very advantages will prove its curse. On the missionaries who
have settled here will depend in a great measure the future character
of the inhabitants ; and on them also will rest the responsibility of
maintaining the morals, as well as superintending the education, of the
rising population. I trust they will both see and feel the great neces-
sity of that strict attention to their duties necessary to insure success.

In the morning, before dawn, the two Indian boys belonging to
Johnson came over to our hut for the purpose of looking for their
milk-pans. Unknown to us, we had laid on its side, for a seat, a
cupboard which contained them. This the boys came in search of,
and in their haste awoke Mr. Drayton, who naturally thought they
intended to steal some of our things : he accordingly pelted them with
our boots and shoes, and all other articles that came to hand. This
aroused us all, when a general outcry was raised, and the Indian boys
made a precipitate retreat, not, however, before they had secured one
of the objects of their search.

After breakfast, we crossed the river to Johnson's, and I was, on
this second visit, more impressed with the filth, both in and out doors
than before.

It was now determined that Mr. Drayton should take the boat
down the river, and that I should pass through the eastern part of the
Willamette Valley on horseback, to reach the falls by dark. This
George Gay said could be easily done, with fresh and good horses.
Taking him as a guide, I set off, and after passing a few miles, we
crossed a low ridge of rough rocky ground, of trap formation, about
a mile wide: it was well wooded with pines and firs. After passing
the ridge, we again entered on fine prairies, part of the farm of
Dr. Bailey. This was one of the most comfortable I had yet seen,
and was certainly in the neatest order. Dr. Bailey had married
one of the girls who came out with the missionaries, and the mistress
of the establishment was as pleasing as it was well conducted. Dr.

VOL. iv. 2F 46

302 WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

Bailey desiring to accompany us to the falls, I gladly concluded to
await their dinner, and before it was served had an opportunity of
looking about the premises. The locality resembles the prairies I have
so often spoken of, but there was something in the arrangements of the
farm that seemed advanced beyond the other settlements of the country.
The garden was, in particular, exceedingly well kept, aqd had in it all
the best vegetables of our own country. This was entirely the work
of Mrs. Bailey, whose activity could not rest content until it was
accomplished. She had followed the mission as a teacher, until she
found there was no field for labour. She had been in hope that the
great missionary field to the north, of which I have before spoken,
would be occupied; but this being neglected, she had left them

Dr. Bailey had been the practising physician of the mission. He
had been several years in the country, and was one of a party that,
while passing through to California, was attacked by the Indians in
their camp, and nearly all murdered. Dr. Bailey, after being severely
wounded, made his escape, and returned to the Willamette ; but he
bears the marks of several wounds on his head and face. He spoke
well of the country, considers it fruitful, and healthy for white men ;
and that it would be so for the Indians, if they could be persuaded to
take care of themselves. The ague and fever, though common on the
low prairies, was not of a dangerous type, and after the first attack,
those of subsequent years were less violent, even if it did occur, which
was rare. The climate, however, was very destructive to the Indians,
of whom at least one-fourth died off yearly.

When an Indian is sick, and considered beyond moving, he is
poisoned by the medicine-man ; for which purpose a decoction of the
wild cucumber (Bryonia) is given him. Some of the roots of this
plant grow to a very large size; and I saw some at Mr. Waller's
three feet long by twelve inches in diameter.

Dr. Bailey also related to me an anecdote of Mr. Farnham,* who
has written upon Oregon. A few days before the latter left the coun-
try, they wrere lost in the woods, and were obliged to pass a cold and
dark night up to their ankles in mire: this the Doctor thought had
cured his enthusiasm ; and the first news he received of him was his
violent attack upon the country on which, a few months before, he had
written so strong a panegyric.

The next farm I stopped at was that of Mr. Walker, who came

* Mr. Farnham hnd Ixrn staying with Dr. Bniley, and had prepared during thnt time the
memorial of the pi-tilers to ('impress, speaking of it in the highest and most exalted terms,
and was one of the most enthusiastic in its praise. His account subsequently given of
Oregon, differs very materially from the memorial.

WILLAMETTE VALLEY. 363

from Missouri, with all his family, last year: he did not like the
country, and wished to go to California by the first opportunity. His
principal objection, he told me, was to the climate, which was too wet
for business. He said that the land was good, but only for crops of
small grain, which there is no market for, nor is there a probability
of one for some time. Indian corn cannot be raised : it was, however,
a first-rate grazing country. He was a good specimen of a border-
man, and appeared to think nothing of a change of domicile, although
he is much past the middle age, with grown-up sons and daughters
around him. He intended to go to California, and if the country did
not please him, he would travel home by way of Mexico. His family
consisted of eight or ten persons.*

George Gay now thought it proper to notify me that we ought not
to delay any longer, as we had to cross the Powder river, and he did
not know the state it was in. After a hard gallop, we reached that
stream at the usual fording-place. We, however, found that it was
entirely filled with drift-wood, and impassable at that place for our
horses. This difficulty was soon obviated, for while we were trans-
porting the saddles, &c., across the raft of timber, he had searched
out a place where the horses might cross, and dashed in on one of
them, while we drove the others into the river. We were soon
mounted again, and on our way. This stream is about four hun-
dred feet wide, and then about twenty feet deep. Quantities of large
and fine timber were locked together, until they entirely covered the
surface.

The country now became exceedingly rough, overgrown with
brushwood, and in places wet and miry. It was chiefly covered with
heavy pine timber. From Dr. Bailey I learned that the small prairies
we occasionally passed were not capable of cultivation, owing to their
being flooded after a few hours of rain.

A few miles further on we passed the Little Powder river, which
was termed fordable, though the horses were obliged to swim it, after
which Gay gave me a specimen of his rapid mode of riding. Having
made up my mind to follow, I kept after him, and on my arrival at the
falls, could not help congratulating myself that we had reached our
destination in safety, for the last few miles of the route was a sort of
break-neck one.

At the falls I found Mr. Drayton comfortably encamped, and Mr.
and Mrs. Waller again pressed us to partake of their hospitality. I

* Mr. Walker subsequently joined the party I sent across to California, from the Willa-
mette, and then entered the service of Mr. Suter.

3(54 WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

occupied the evening in getting my usual observations for latitude and
time.

Mr. Drayton desiring to stay a longer time at the falls, to procure
as many specimens of fish as he could, and make drawings, I deter-
mined to return to Vancouver without him ; which I did by the
following day at sunset. On the way I stopped at the boat-builders'
camp, who I found had made great progress in their undertaking, and
appeared to work with great unanimity.

At Vancouver, I was again kindly made welcome by Dr. M'Laughlin,
Mr. Douglass, and the officers of the establishment. During my ab-
sence, Mr. Peter Ogden, chief factor of the northern district, had arrived
with his brigade. The fort had, in consequence, a very different ap-
pearance from the one it bore when I left it. I was exceedingly amused
with the voyageurs of the brigade, who were to be seen lounging about
in groups, decked in gay feathers, ribands, &c., full of conceit, and
with the flaunting air of those who consider themselves the beau-ideal
of grace and beauty; full of frolic and fun, and seeming to have
nothing to do but to attend to the decorations of their persons and seek
for pleasure ; looking down with contempt upon those who are em-
ployed about the fort, whose sombre cast of countenance and business
employments form a strong contrast to these jovial fellows.

Mr. Ogden has been thirty-two years in this country, and conse-
quently possesses much information respecting it ; having travelled
nearly all over it. He resides at Fort St. James, on Stuart's Lake,
and has six posts under his care.

The northern section of the country he represents as not susceptible
of cultivation, on account of the proximity of the snowy mountains,
which cause sudden changes, even in the heat of summer, that, would
destroy the crops.

His posts are amply supplied with salmon from the neighbouring
waters, that empty themselves into the sounds on the coast. These
fish are dried, and form the greatest part of the food of those employed
by the Company during the whole year. Their small-stores of flour,
&c., are all carried from Colville and Vancouver. Furs are very
plenty in the northern region, and are purchased at low prices from
the Indians : his return, this year, was valued at one hundred thousand
dollars, and this, he informed me, was much less than the usual amount.

On the other hand, the southern section of this country, I was here
informed, was scarcely worth the expense of an outlay for a party of
trappers.

This southern country, as will be seen from what has been already
stated, is very well adapted to the raising of cattle and sheep : of the

WILLAMETTE VALLEY. 365

former, many have been introduced by parties, which trap on their
way thither and return with cattle. Although there were but a few
head of them four or five years before, in 1841 there were upwards of
ten thousand. The whole country is particularly adapted to grazing,
which, together with the mildness of the climate, must cause this
region to become, in a short time, one of the best-stocked countries in
the world.

The price of cattle may be quoted at ten dollars a head ; but those
that are broken in for labour, or milch-cows, command a higher price ;
and in some places in the Willamette Valley they have been sold for
the enormous price of eighty dollars. Every endeavour is made to
keep the price of cattle up, as labour is usually paid for in stock.

The price of labour for a mechanic may be set down at from two
dollars and a half, to three dollars a day; and there is much difficulty
to procure them even at that rate. The wages for a common labourer
is one dollar per day. The price of wheat is fixed at sixty-two and
a half cents per bushel by the Company; for which any thing but
spirits may be drawn from the stores, at fifty per cent, advance on the
London cost. This is supposed, all things taken into consideration, to
be equal to one dollar and twelve cents per bushel ; but it is difficult
for the settlers so to understand it, and they are by no means satisfied
with the rate. There is a description of currency here, called beaver
money ; which seems to be among the whites what blankets are
among the Indians. The value of the currency may be estimated
from the fact, that a beaver-skin represents about two dollars through-
out the territory.

In speaking of the Willamette Valley, I have viewed its advantages
for raising crops, pasturage of stock, and the facilities of settlers
becoming rich. There is, however, one objection to its ever becoming
a large settlement, in consequence of the interruption of the navigation
of its rivers in the dry season ; which renders it difficult to get to a
market, as well as to receive supplies.

The salmon-fishery may be classed as one of the great sources of
wealth, for it affords a large amount of food at a very low price, and
of the very best quality : it does not extend above the falls. I found it
impossible to obtain any data to found a calculation of the quantity
taken, but it cannot be short of eight hundred barrels ; and this after
the Indian manner of catching them, as before described. The finest
of the salmon are those caught nearest the sea.

The settlers and Indians told us that the salmon as they pass up the
river become poorer, and when they reach the tributaries of the upper
Columbia, they are exceedingly exhausted, and have their bodies and
heads much disfigured and cut, and their tails and fins worn out bv

2F2

3G6 WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

contact with the rocks. Many of the salmon in consequence die : these
the Indians are in the habit of drying for food, by hanging them on the
limbs of trees. This is to preserve them from the wolves, and to be
used in time of need, when they are devoured, though rotten and full
of maggots. The fish of the upper waters are said to be hardly edible,
and, compared with those caught at the mouth of the Columbia, are
totally different in flavour. The latter are the richest and most delicious
fish I ever recollect to have tasted : if any thing, they were too fat to
eat, and one can perceive a difference even in those taken at the
Willamette Falls, which, however, are the best kind for salting. There
are four different kinds of salmon, which frequent this river in different
months: the latest appears in October, and is the only kind that
frequents the Cowlitz river. The finest sort is a dark silvery fish, of
large size, three or four feet long, and weighing forty or fifty pounds.

There is one point which seems to be still in doubt, namely, where
the spawn of this fish is deposited. It is asserted, and generally
believed, that none of the old fish ever return to the sea again. It has
not been ascertained whether the young fry go to the ocean ; and, if
they do so, whether as spawn or young fish. Some light will be thrown
on this subject in the Ichthyological Report.

Mr. Drayton, during the time he remained at the falls, procured a
beautiful specimen of a small-sized sucker, which the Indians caught
in their nets, and of which he made a drawing. The lamprey eels were
also a source of curiosity : they seemed to increase in numbers, crawl-
ing up by suction an inch at a time. At these eels the boy who
accompanied Mr. Drayton took pleasure in throwing stones, which
excited the wrath of the Indians, as they said they should catch no
more fish if he continued his sport. They have many superstitions
connected with the salmon, and numerous practices growing out of
these are religiously observed : thus, if any one dies in their lodges
during the fishing season, they stop fishing for several days ; if a horse
crosses the ford, they are sure no more fish will be taken.

During the fishing season there are about seventy Indians, of both
sexes, who tarry at the falls, although the actual residents are not,
according to Mr. Waller, beyond fifteen. They dwell in lodges, which
resemble those described heretofore, and are built of planks split from
the pine trees. These are set up on end, forming one apartment, of
from thirty to forty feet long, by about twenty wride. The roof has
invariably a double pitch, and is made of cedar bark : the doorway is
small, and either round or rounded at the top. I have mentioned that
the outside is well stocked with fleas: it need scarcely be said what the
condition of the inside is.

These Indians are to be seen lounging about or asleep in the day-

WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

time; but they generally pass their nights in gambling. Mr. Dray ton,
while at the falls, obtained a knowledge of some of their games. The
women usually play during the day at a game resembling dice. The
implements are made of the incisor teeth of the beaver, and four of
these are used, which are engraved
on two sides with different figures,
and the figures on two of the teeth
are alike : these are taken in the
hand and thrown on a mat, the INDIAN DICE.

players sitting on it, opposite to

one another. They are of the shape represented in the cut. If all the
blank sides come up, it counts nothing ; if all the engraved or marked
sides, it counts two ; if two blanks and two differently marked sides, it
counts nothing; but if two with like marks, it counts one. The game
is generally twenty, which are marked with pieces of stick ; the tens
are noted with a smaller stick. This game is played for strings of
dentalium, called by them " ahikia;" each string is about two feet long,
and will pass for considerable value, as the shells are difficult to pro-
cure: ten of them are said to be worth a beaver-skin.

The men and boys play a game with small bows and arrows : a
wheel, about a foot in diameter, is wound round with grass, and is
rolled over smooth ground ; the players are divided into two parties :
one rolls the wheel, while the other shoots the arrow at it. If he sticks
his arrow into the wheel, he holds it on the ground edgewise towards
the one who rolled it, who, if he shoots his arrow into it, wins his
opponent's arrow ; and this goes on by turns.

Another game is played by a party of men and boys, in the follow-
/ng manner : two poles are taken, six or eight feet long, and wound
round with grass ; these are set up about fifty feet apart. Each player
has a spear, which he throws in his turn. Whichever side, after a
number of throws, puts the greatest number of spears in their oppo-
nent's pole, wins the game. The usual bet among the men is a cotton
shirt.

Mr. Drayton also paid a visit to the Indian village on the Klackamus
river, which is about three miles from the falls, in company with Mr.
Waller. The village is one and a half miles up the Klackamus, and
its inhabitants number about forty-five individuals. Mr. Waller went
there to preach, and about half the inhabitants of the village attended.
The chief was the interpreter, and was thought to have done his office
in rather a waggish sort of manner. Preaching to the natives through
an interpreter is at all times difficult, and especially so when the
speaker has to do it in the Indian jargon of the country. This village

368 WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

has been disputed ground between Mr. Waller and Mr. Bachelet, the
former claiming it as coming within his district. Not long before OUT
visit, Mr. Bachelet had planted a staff' and hoisted on it a flag bearing
a cross. When this became known to Mr. Waller, he went to the
place and pulled it down, and has driven Mr. Bachelet away. Such
difficulties are very much to be deprecated, as they cannot but injure
the general cause of Christianity in the eyes of the natives ; and it is
to be wished that they could be settled among the different sects with-
out giving them such publicity; for the natives seldom fail to take
advantage of these circumstances, and to draw conclusions unfavour-
able to both parties.

The men of the Klackamus village are rather taller and better-look-
ing than the Clatsop or Chinook Indians: they belong to the Callapuya
tribe. The women and children are most of them crippled and diseased.
They have been quite a large tribe in former times, as is proved by the
crowded state of their burying-ground, which covers quite a large
space, and has a multitude of bones scattered around.

Their mode of burial is to dig a hole, in which the body is placed,
with the clothes belonging to the individual: it is then covered up with
earth, and a broad head-board is placed upright, of from two to six
feet high, which is frequently painted or carved with grotesque figures :
all the personal property of the deceased is placed upon this, consisting
of wooden spoons, hats, tin kettles, beads, gun-barrels bent double, and
tin pots. Although they are very superstitious about disturbing the
articles belonging to the dead, yet all these have holes punched in
them, to prevent their being of any use to others, or a temptation to
their being taken off. It frequently happens that the head-boards will
not hold all the articles, in which case sticks are used in addition. To
rob their burying-grounds of bodies, is attended with much danger, as
they would not hesitate to kill any one who was discovered in the act
of carrying off a skull or bones.

Of their medicine-men they have a great dread, and even of their
bones after death. Thus, a medicine-man was buried near this
burying-ground about a year before our visit to the country, whose
body the wolves dug up : no one could be found to bury his bones
again, and they were still to be seen bleaching on the surface of the
ground.

It is no sinecure to be a medicine-man ; and if they inspire dread in
others, they are made to feel it themselves, being frequently obliged to
pay the forfeit of their own lives, if they are not successful in curing
their patients. The chief of the Klackamus tribe told Mr. Prayton
that some of his men had gone to kill a medicine-man, in consequence

WILLAMETTE VALLEY. 369

of the death of his wife. These men afterwards returned with a horse
and some smaller presents from the medicine-man, which he had paid
to save his life.

This rule equally applies to the whites who prescribe for Indians, an
instance of which occurred a short time before our arrival, when Mr.
Black, a chief trader in one of the northern posts, was shot dead in his
own room by an Indian to whose parent (a chief) he had been cha-
ritable enough to give some medicine. The chief died soon after taking
it, and Mr. Black paid the forfeit of his kindness with his life. The
deed was done in a remarkably bold and daring manner. The Indian
went to the fort and desired to see Mr. Black, saying he was sick and
cold. He was allowed to enter, and Mr. Black had a fire made for
him, without any suspicion of his intentions. On his turning his back,
however, towards the Indian, he was instantly shot, and fell dead on
his face, when the man made his escape from the fort before any
suspicions were excited of his being the murderer.

To Mr. Black the world is indebted for the greater part of the geo-
graphical knowledge which has been published of the country west of
the Rocky Mountains ; and he not only devoted much of his time to
this subject, but also to the making of many collections in the other
departments of natural history, as well as in geology and mineralogy.
I remained at Vancouver till the morning of the 17th, and passed
these few days with much pleasure in the company of the gentlemen
of the fort, of whose attentions and great kindness I shall long enter-
tain a grateful remembrance.

Mr. Waldron now joined me from Astoria, without bringing any
news of the Peacock or tender. I did not think it worth while to wait
any longer their coming, when I had so much duty to perform else-
where. After completing orders for Captain Hudson, I determined to
return. Plumondon was sent to the Willamette Falls for Mr. Drayton,
as I desired to have some consultation with him before my departure.

The day before I left the fort, Mr. Ogden informed me that he had
made arrangements to take me as far as the Cowlitz Farm in his boat,
on my way to Nisqually, and desired that I would allow Mr. Drayton
to accompany him up the river as far as Wallawalla. To both of
these arrangements I readily assented.

During my stay at Vancouver, I frequently saw Casenove, the chief
of the Klackatack tribe. He lives in a lodge near the village of Van-
couver, and has always been a warm friend of the whites. He was
once lord of all this domain. His village was situated about six miles
below Vancouver, on the north side of the river, and, within the last
fifteen years, was quite populous : he then could muster four or five
VOL. iv. 47

370 WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

hundred warriors ; but the ague and fever have, within a short space
of time, swept off the whole tribe, and it is said that they all died
within three weeks. He now stands alone, his land, tribe, and property
all departed, and he left a dependant on the bounty of the Company.
Casenove is about fifty years of age, and a noble and intelligent-looking
Indian. At the fort he is always welcome, and is furnished with a
plate at meal-times at the side-table. I could not but feel for the situa-
tion of one who, in the short space of a few years, has lost not only
his property and importance, but his whole tribe and kindred, as I saw
him quietly enter the apartment, wrapped in his blanket, and take his
seat at the lonely board. He scarce seemed to attract the notice of
any one, but ate his meal in silence, and retired. He has always been
a great friend to the whites, and during the time of his prosperity was
ever ready to search out and bring to punishment all those who com-
mitted depredations on strangers.

Casenove's tribe is not the only one that has suffered in this way ;
many others have been swept off entirely by this fatal disease, without
leaving a single survivor to tell their melancholy tale.

The cause of this great mortality among the Indians has been attri-
buted to the manner in which the disease has been treated, or rather
to their superstitious practices. Their medicine-men and women are
no better than jugglers, and use no medicine except some deleterious
roots ; while, from the character of these Indians, and their treatment
of an unsuccessful practitioner, the whites decline administering any
remedies, for fear of consequences like those to which I have alluded.

On the morning of the 17th, Vancouver was awake at an early
hour, and preparations were actively making; a voyageur occasion-
ally was to be seen, decked out in all his finery, feathers, and flowing
ribands, tying on his ornamented leggins, sashes, and the usual worked
tobacco and fire pouch. The latter is of the shape of a lady's reticule,
and generally made of red or blue cloth, prettily worked with beads.
In working them the wives of the officers of the Company exercise
great taste, and it is deemed fully as essential a part of dress in a
voyageur' s wardrobe as in a lady's. The simple bag does not, how-
ever, afford sufficient scope for ornament, and it has usually several
long tails to it, which are worked with silk of gaudy colours.

The ladies of the country are dressed after our own bygone fashions,
with the exception of leggins, made of red and blue cloth, richly orna-
mented. Their feet, which are small and pretty, are covered with
worked moccasins. Many of them have a dignified look and carriage:
their black eyes and hair, and brown ruddy complexion, combined with
a pleasing expression, give them an air of independence ana usefulness

WILLAMETTE VALLEY. 371

that one little expects to see. As wives, they are spoken of as most
devoted, and many of them have performed deeds in the hour of
danger and difficulty, worthy of being recorded. They understand
the characters of Indians well.

About ten o'clock, we were all summoned to the great dining-hall
by Dr. M'Laughlin, to take the parting cup customary in this country.
When all were assembled, wine was poured out, and we drank to each
other's welfare, prosperity, &c. This was truly a cup of good-fellow-
ship and kind feeling. This hanging to old Scotch customs in the way
it was done here is pleasant, and carries with it pleasing recollections,
especially when there is that warmth of feeling with it, that there was
on this occasion. After this was over, we formed quite a cavalcade
to the river-side, which was now swollen to the top of its banks, and
rushing by with irresistible force.

On reaching the river, we found one of Mr. Ogden's boats manned
by fourteen voyageurs, all gaily dressed in their ribands and plumes ;
the former tied in large bunches of divers colours, with numerous
ends floating in the breeze. The boat was somewhat of the model of
our whale-boats, only much larger, and of the kind built expressly to
accommodate the trade : they are provided yearly at Okonagan, and
are constructed in a few days: they are clinker-built, and all the tim-
bers are flat. These boats are so light that they are easily carried
across the portages. They use the gum of the pine to cover them
instead of pitch.

After having a hearty shake of the hand, Captain Varney, Mr.
Ogden, and myself, embarked. The signal being given, we shoved
off, and the voyageurs at once struck up one of their boat-songs.
After paddling up the stream for some distance, we made a graceful
sweep to reach the centre, and passed by the spectators with great
animation. The boat and voyageurs seemed a fit object to grace the
wide-flowing river. On we merrily went, while each voyageur in
succession took up the song, and all joined in the chorus. In two
hours and a half we reached the mouth of the Cowlitz, a distance of
thirty-five miles.

In the Cowlitz we found a strong current to contend against, and
by nightfall had only proceeded twelve miles further. As we en-
camped, the weather changed, and rain began to fall, which lasted till
next morning.

I had much amusement in watching the voyageurs, who are as
peculiar in their way as sailors. I was struck with their studious
politeness and attention to each other, and their constant cheerfulness.

On the second day, our voyageurs had doffed their finery, and their

372 WILLAMETTEVALLEY.

hats were carefully covered with oiled skins. They thus appeared
more prepared for hard work. The current became every mile more
rapid, and the difficulty of surmounting it greater. The management
of the boats in the rapids is dexterous and full of excitement, as well
to the passengers as to the voyageurs themselves. The bowman is
the most important man, giving all the directions, and is held respon-
sible for the safety of the boat ; and his keen eye and quick hand in
the use of his paddle, delights and inspires a confidence in him in
moments of danger that is given without stint. We did not make
more than ten miles during the day, and were forced to encamp three
miles below the farm.

On the 19th we reached our destination. On our approach, although
there were no spectators, except a few Indians, to be expected, the
voyageurs again mounted their finery, and gaily chaunted their boat-
song.

Mr. Ogden had been one of the first who travelled over this part
of country, and he informed me that he has seen the whole country
inundated by the rise of the river. This, however, can but rarely
occur, and could only be the result of a sudden melting of the snows
when accompanied with violent rain-storms.

Plumondon had gone before, to request Mr. Forrest to send the
wagon for our baggage ; and we found it duly waiting at the landing.

In the afternoon, I made a visit, with Mr. Ogden, to the Catholic
Mission, and several of the settlers' houses. That of Plumondon we
found quite comfortable. The neighbourhood, though consisting of
few families, appears very happy and united. They prefer the
Cowlitz to the Willamette, although the land here is not so good as in
the valley of the latter ; but they say that many vegetables succeed
here, that will not grow on the Willamette.

It was with much regret that J parted from Mr. Ogden and Captain
Varney. We had enjoyed ourselves much, and I shall long remember
their kindness and jovial company. The day they left us proved very
rainy; it was impossible for any one to stir out, and the mud was
ankle-deep. I felt disappointed at this, as I wished to make some
observations, to test those I had already taken in passing before. Mr.
Forrest was very attentive, and did all in his power to amuse me ; but
feeling disposed to sleep, I lay down, and after a short time awoke,
with the feeling of having overslept myself. I jumped up to look at
my pocket-chronometer, which, to be careful of, I had placed on t1 c
table. Lying near by it was a small silver watch, which I had not
before observed, and my surprise was great to find that they both
showed the same hour. I uttered my surprise aloud just as Mr

WILLAMETTE VALLEY. 373

Forrest entered the room, and told me that he had found my watch
altogether wrong, (it showed Greenwich time,) and he had set it for
me. I could riot help making an exclamation of astonishment. We
stood looking at each other, and he appeared fully as surprised as I
was, when I told him that he had changed my Greenwich time for
that of Cowlitz, and had interrupted my series of observations. He
thought it passing strange that I should prefer Greenwich time to that
of Cowlitz, and told me that he was sure his watch was right, for it
kept time with the sun exactly ! This incident, though sufficiently
provoking at the time, afforded me much amusement after it was over,
and was a lesson to me never to trust a chronometer to such an acci-
dent again.

It having partially cleared up the next morning, I set off, accom-
panied by Plumondon, his wife and child, and another settler as my
guide. We departed at eight o'clock, and being provided with good
horses, made rapid progress. By the advice of Mr. Forrest, I endea-
voured to take a canoe on the Chickeeles, sending the horses to meet
us, without loads, over the mountain.

We rode up to the Indian lodges, near the Chickeeles river, in order
to engage some of them to accompany us. I have before spoken of
making a bargain with them, and of the time and patience necessary
before any thing can be accomplished. I now saw that it was a hope-
less task to attempt to overcome their perfect nonchalance. Time,
haste, clothes, presents, are nothing to them; rum is the only thing
that will move them at all times, and of this I had none, nor should I
have made use of it if I had. When Plumondon had exhausted his
words on them without effect, we rode off, succeeded in passing the
mountain road quickly, and were well satisfied that we had thus shown
our independence.

I have noticed the excessive love that the whole Indian population
seern to have for rum : many of these poor creatures would labour for
days, and submit to all sorts of fatigue, for the sake of a small quan-
tity. No other inducement will move them in the salmon and cam-
mass seasons, for then they have nothing more to desire.

Towards night we encamped on a small prairie, where the grasses,
flowers, and trees, were in every variety of bloom.

The Indians on the Chickeeles river were engaged in the salmon-
fishery. This is effected by staking the river across with poles, and
constructing fikes or fish-holes, through which the fish are obliged to
pass. Over these are erected triangles to support a staging, on which
the Indians stand, with nets and spears, and take the fish as they
attempt to pass through : the fish are then dried by smoking, and pre-

2G

374

WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

pared for future use. The smoked fish are packed in baskets ; but the
supply is far short of their wants.

The next morning we set out early, and reached the opposite bank
of Shute's river. On the following day before noon, I returned to
Nisqually, fully as much enchanted with the beautiful park scenery as
when I passed it before. To it was now added occasional peeps of
Mount Rainier's high and snowy peak.

OLD MISSION-HOUSE, OKKGON.

CHAPTER XL

CONTENTS.

SCIENTIFIC OPERATIONS AT NISQUALLY — FACILITIES TENDERED BY MR. OGDEN

— MR. DRAYTON ORDERED TO ACCOMPANY HIM — MR. DRAYTON'S PREVIOUS RE-
SEARCHES—PREPARATIONS FOR THE EXPEDITION — BOATS — PACKAGES AND MODE
OF TRANSPORTATION— TRADE AT MR. OGDEN'S POSTS — DEPARTURE OF MR. DRAY-
TON FROM VANCOUVER— CASCADES — CASCADE MOUNTAINS — PORTAGES — GUMMING
THE BOATS — SUNKEN FOREST — RATTLESNAKES — METHODIST MISSION - INDIANS
WITHIN ITS SPHERE— THE DALLES— MODE OF CURING FISH THERE— MODE OF FISH-
ING—DESCRIPTION OF THE DALLES — SYSTEM OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY-
PORTAGE AT THE DALLES— MISSIONARY EFFORTS— IMPROVIDENCE OF THE INDIANS

— DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY — ITS CLIMATE — WISH AM — CHUTES RIVER- JOHN
DAY'S RIVER— END OF THE WOODS — HIEROGLYPHIC ROCKS— BURIAL-PLACE-GRAND
RAPIDS-WINDMILL ROCK— ARRIVAL OF MR. DRAYTON AT WALLA WALLA— CHARAC-
TER AND CONDITION OF THE COMPANY'S SERVANTS— SEPARATION FROM MR. OGDEN

— VISIT TO DR. WHITMAN — MISSIONARY STATIONS OF THE AMERICAN BOARD —
WAIILAPTU-GRANDE RONDE— FLAG OF PEACE— CONDITION OF THE MISSIONARIES
—CLIMATE— TREES— PROSPECTS OF THE MISSION— THEIR SCHOOL— INDIAN FARMING
—BLUE MOUNTAINS— HOT WINDS — MODE OF FISHING AT WALLAWALLA-ARRIVAL
OF INDIANS — FALL OF THE COLUMBIA — WALLAWALLA AND NEZ PERCE TRIBES-
THEIR MODE OF DRESSING SKINS— MODE OF CARRYING THEIR CHILDREN— MEDICINE-
WOMAN— CUSTOMS IN RELATION TO FEMALES— GREAT FALLS OF THE COLUMBIA—

. COMPARISON OF THE COLUMBIA AND SNAKE RIVERS— MR. DRAYTON LEAVES WAL-
LAWALLA—INDIANS AT PRAYER— EXTORTION BY THE INDIANS-THEIR ATTEMPTS
AT THEFT— RETURN OF MR. DRAYTON TO VANCOUVER.

(375)

CHAPTER XI.
WALLAWALLA.

1841.

ON my return to Nisqually, I found that news had been received
from the various surveying and exploring parties, all of which it was
reported were advancing rapidly in the execution of their duties.
The preparations for the scientific operations, which had been left to
the charge of Lieutenant Carr, were all completed, and the two log
houses had been built, in which we now began to perform the pendu-
lum experiments, and make astronomic observations. In these we
were engaged until the 4th of July. As the details of them will be
given in another place, I shall only advert here to the operations which
I had entrusted to Mr. Drayton, and which will form the subject of the
present chapter.

It was stated in the preceding chapter, that through Mr. Ogden's
kindness, a passage was offered up the Columbia river as far as
Wallawalla. It had been my original intention to despatch a party
from the Peacock in this direction, to cross the Rocky Mountains
to the head waters of Yellowstone river; and I had engaged a Mr.
Rogers to accompany it. Orders for the purpose had been pre-
pared, and left to be delivered to Captain Hudson when he should
arrive.

I now, however, began to apprehend that some serious accident
had happened to that vessel, and I deemed it important to secure at
all events, the examination of so interesting a part of this country,
particularly when it could be performed under such favourable cir-
cumstances as those offered by Mr. Ogden. Mr. Drayton was there-
fore detached to make this jaunt, and to his industry and observation
I am indebted for many of the facts about to be detailed. For others

VOL. iv. *Ga 48 (377)

378 WALLAWALLA.

of them I have to acknowledge my obligation to the missionaries, and
the officers of the Hudson Bay Company.

Previous to the departure of the brigade, Mr. Drayton had made
many collections in natural history. After I left him, the weather con-
tinued very rainy for several days, and the Columbia in consequence
began to rise again rapidly : the low prairies were overflowed, and the
wheat in many places was injured. To show the porous nature of
the soil, I will mention that the well at Vancouver rises and falls with
the river, although it is a quarter of a mile from the bank. This is
not the case in any other place in the territory where wells are sunk ;
but I have little doubt the same thing would occur on any of the low
prairies of the Columbia, for the soil of all of them seems very similar.
At Vancouver they use the river in preference to the well-water,
though they do not consider the latter as unwholesome.

Mr. Drayton obtained in the mill-pond, specimens of a beautiful
spotted trout, which is abundant there. They lake the bait readily,
and were caught with pieces of dried salmon : they feed upon insects,
and small white moths are their favourite bait, at which they are seen
to spring most greedily.

Until the 26th, repairs were making to the boats, and preparations
were going on for embarking the goods. The shape of these boats has
been before described : they have great strength and buoyancy, carry
three tons weight, and have a crew of eight men, besides a padroon :
they are thirty feet long and five and a half feet beam, sharp at both
ends, clinker-built, and have no knees. In building them, flat timbers
of oak are bent to the requisite shape by steaming ; they are bolted to
a flat keel, at distances of a foot from each other : the planks are of
cedar, and generally extend the whole length of the boat. The gun-
wale is of the same kind of wood, but the rowlocks are of birch. The
peculiarity in the construction of these boats is, that they are only
riveted at each end with a strong rivet, and being well gummed, they
have no occasion for nailing. They answer, and indeed are admirably
adapted to, all the purposes for which they are intended ; are so light
as to be easily transported over the portages by their crews, and in
case of accident are easily repaired.

The goods embarked for the supply of the northern posts are all
done up carefully in bales of ninety pounds each, and consist of gro-
ceries, clothing, flour, powder, bullets, &c. It may readily be ima-
gined that the different packages vary very materially in size, from a
few inches square to two feet. This equal division of the weight is
necessary, in consequence of the numerous portages they have to make,
as well as convenient in forming packs for horses, which they take at

WALLAWALLA. 379

Okonagan for a journey to Thompson river, which takes twenty days
to accomplish.

Mr. Ogden is generally six months of every year travelling to and
from his post on the south end of Stuart's Lake, called Fort St. James,
in latitude 54° N. He leaves it early in the spring, and returns in the
fall of each year. Before he departs, he fits out his summer trappers,
and on his return those for the winter's campaign. He brings down
with him the produce of a year's hunting. This post is the most pro-
fitable of all the sections west of the mountains. The average cost
of a beaver-skin is about twenty-five cents, and when it reaches Van-
couver it has enhanced in price to two dollars and fifty cents. The
amount of furs brought down by Mr. Ogden yearly will net in London
£50,000, a fact which will give some idea of the value of this trade.

In setting out on his journey, Mr. Ogden's practice, as well as that
of all the Company's parties, is to go only a few miles the first day, in
order that they may discoyer if any thing has been neglected, and be
able to return for it. For this reason their first encampment was at
the saw-mill. Their brigade consisted of nine boats, rowed by sixty
voyageurs, eight of whom had their Indian wives with them. Besides
these were Mr. and Mrs. M'Kinley, (Mr. Ogden's son-in-law,) who
was to take charge of the Wallawalla Fort, and a Mr. Cameron, also
of the Company, who was on his way to Mr. Black's station. The
boats take each sixty packages, excepting the trader, which is Mr.
Ogden's own boat, and carries only forty. The boatmen are Cana-
dians, excepting about one-fourth, who are Iroquois Indians, all strong,
active, and hardy men. They are provided only with a square sail,
as the wind blows generally either directly up or down the river.

On the 27th June, they were off at early dawn, took their breakfast
at Prairie du The, and reached the Company's fishery, at the Cascades,
at 6 p. M., where they encamped. This is the head of ship navigation,
where the river takes a turn northward, and for upwards of two miles
is comparatively narrow — four hundred and fifty yards wide. It falls
in this distance about forty feet, and the whole body of water drives
through this narrow channel with great impetuosity, forming high
waves and fearful whirlpools, too dangerous to be encountered by any
boat. When the river is low, these rapids are sometimes passed by
skilful boatmen, but there have been many lives lost in the attempt.

The country bordering on the river is low until the Cascades are
approached, with the exception of several high basaltic bluffs. Some
of them are two hundred feet high, pointed like turreted castles.

An old Indian, called Slyboots, made his call upon Mr. Ogden for
his annual present, consisting of some tobacco and a shirt. This

380 WALLAWALLA.

present is made in consequence of his once having preserved Mr.
Ogden's party from an attack, by giving information that it was to
take place. By this timely notice Mr. Ogden was enabled to guard
himself and party, by taking refuge upon a small island just above the
Cascades.

The Columbia, at this part, passes through the Cascade range of
mountains, between high and rocky banks. The geological character
of this range is basaltic lava, basaltic conglomerate, and sandstone.
Large quantities of petrified wood are to be found in the neighbour-
hood. Mr. Drayton obtained specimens of all of these.

The river, thus far, is navigated by seeking out the eddies. The
great difficulty is found in doubling the points, which are at times
impassable, except by tracking and poling. The oars are used after
the French or Spanish fashion, adding the whole weight of the body
to the strength of arm.

At the Cascades, during the fishing season, there are about three
hundred Indians, only about one-tenth of whom are residents: they
occupy three lodges ; but there was formerly a large town here.
Great quantities of fish are taken by them ; and the manner of doing
this resembles that at the Willamette Falls. They also construct
canals, on a line parallel with the shore, with rocks and stones, for
about fifty feet in length, through which the fish pass in order to avoid
the strong current, and are here taken in great numbers.

There are two portages here, under the names of the new and the
old. At the first, only half of the load is landed, and the boats are
tracked up for half a mile further, when the load is again shipped.
The boats are then tracked to the old portage. A strong eddy occurs
at this place, which runs in an opposite direction ; and here it is
necessary to land the whole of the cargo ; after which, the empty
boats are again tracked three quarters of a mile beyond.

To a stranger, unacquainted with the navigation of this river, the
management of these boatmen becomes a source of wonder; for it is
surprising how they can succeed in surmounting such rapids at all as
the Cascades. Their mode of transporting the goods, and the facilities
with which they do it, are equally novel. The load is secured on the
back of a voyageur by a band which passes round the forehead and
under and over the bale; he squats down, adjusts his load, and rises
with ninety pounds on his back ; another places ninety pounds more
on the top. and off he trots, half bent, to the end of the portage. One
of the gentlemen of the Company informed me, that he had seen a
voyageur carry six packages of ninety pounds each on his back (five
hundred and forty pounds) ; but it was for a wager, arid the distance

WALLAWALLA.

was not more than one hundred yards. The voyageurs in general
have not the appearance of being very strong men. At these portages,
the Indians assist for a small present of tobacco. The boats seldom
escape injury in passing; and in consequence of that which they
received on this occasion, the party was detained the rest of the day
repairing damages.

On their starting next morning, they found that the boats leaked ;
and put on shore again to gum them. This operation, Mr. Drayton
describes thus. On landing the goods, the boats are tracked up and
turned bottom up, when they are suffered to dry ; two flat-sided pieces
of fire-wood, about two feet long, are then laid together, and put into
the fire, until both are well lighted, and the wood burns readily at one
end and in the space between ; they then draw the lighted end slowly
along the gummed seam, blowing at the same time between the sticks:
this melts the gum, and a small spatula is used to smooth it off and
render the seam quite tight. The common gum of the pine or hemlock
is that used ; and a supply is always carried with them.

A short distance above the Cascades, they passed the locality of the
sunken forest, which was at the time entirely submerged. Mr. Drayton,
on his return, visited the place, and the water had fallen so much as
to expose the stumps to view : they were of pine, and quite rotten, so
much so that they broke when they were taken hold of. He is of
opinion that the point on which the pine forest stands, has been under-
mined by the great currents during the freshets; and that it has sunk
bodily down until the trees were entirely submerged. The whole mass
appears to be so matted together by the roots as to prevent their sepa-
ration. Changes, by the same undermining process, were observed to
be going on continually in other parts of the river.

On the 30th of June, they had a favourable wind, but it blew so hard
that they were obliged to reef their sail, and afterwards found the
waves and wind too heavy for them to run without great danger; they
in consequence put on shore to wait until it abated. In these forty
miles of the river, it usually blows a gale from the westward in the
summer season, almost daily.

In the evening, they reached within seven miles of the Dalles, and
four below the mission. Here the roar of the water at the Dalles was
heard distinctly.

The country had now assumed a different aspect ; the trees began to
decrease in number, and the land to look dry and burnt up. Before
pitching their tents, the men were beating about the bushes to drive
away the rattlesnakes, a number of which were killed, and preserved
as specimens.

382 WALLAWALLA.

In the morning they were again on their route, and reached Little
river, from which the station of the Methodist Mission is three-fourths
of a mile distant. Here they were met by Mr. Perkins, who was
waiting for his letters and some packages of goods the brigade had
brought. Mr. Drayton accompanied Mr. Perkins to the mission, while
the brigade moved on towards the Dalles. Mr. Daniel Lee, the prin-
cipal of the mission, was found near the house, reaping his wheat.

At this station there are three families, those of the Rev. Mr. Lee,
Mr. Perkins, and a lay member, who is a farmer. Their reception of
Mr. Drayton was exceedingly kind.

The mission consists of two log and board houses, hewn, sawed, and
built by themselves, with a small barn, and several out-houses. The
buildings are situated on high ground, among scattered oaks, and
immediately in the rear is an extensive wood of oaks and pines, with
numerous sharp and jagged knolls and obelisk-looking pillars of con-
glomerate, interspersed among basaltic rocks : in front is an alluvial
plain, having a gradual descent towards the river, and extending to the
right and left. This contains about two thousand acres of good land,
well supplied with springs, with Little river, and other smaller streams
passing through it. The soil is made up of decomposed conglomerate,
and in places shows a deep black loam. Around this tract the land is
high, devoid of moisture, and covered with basaltic rocks or sand.

They here raise wheat and potatoes by irrigation : the latter grow in
great perfection, and wheat yields twenty to thirty bushels to the acre.
They had just gathered a crop of two hundred bushels from land which
they irrigate by means of several fine streams near their houses. They
might raise much more, if they were disposed. The summers here are
much hotter than at Vancouver, and consequently drier ; the spring
rains cease here earlier, and the people harvest in June.

There are only a few Indians residing near the mission during the
winter, and these are a very miserable set, who live in holes in the
ground, not unlike a clay oven, in order to keep warm. They are too
lazy to cut wood for their fires. The number that visit the Dalles
during the fishing season, is about fifteen hundred : these are from all
the country round, and are generally the outlawed of the different
villages. The missionaries complain much of the insolent behaviour
and of the thieving habits, both of the visitors, and those who reside
permanently at the falls. They are, therefore, very desirous of having
a few settlers near, that they may have some protection from this
annoyance, as they are frequently under apprehension that their lives
will be taken.

It is not to be expected that the missionaries could be able to make

WALLAWALLA.

383

much progress with such a set, and they of course feel somewhat dis-
couraged, though they have succeeded in obtaining a moral influence
over a few.

The river, between the Cascades and the Dalles, a distance of forty
miles, has no rapids, and is navigable for vessels drawing twelve feet
of water. It passes through high rocky banks of basalt

The missionaries informed Mr. Drayton, that the salmon-fishery at
the Dalles lasts six months, and that sturgeon are taken during the
greater part of the year.

The mission is three miles from the Dalles. On Mr. Drayton
reaching the lower point of the portage, he found Mr. Ogden en-
camped^ and a boat-load of packages spread out to dry. It appeared
that one of the boats had bilged in passing up, and required repairs.
The place was luckily fitted for these operations, as it had but one
entrance to protect against about a thousand Indians, on the look-out
for whatever they could pick up, and who required the whole force of
the brigade to keep them in check.

The Dalles is appropriately called the Billingsgate of Oregon. The
diversity of dress among the men was greater even than in the crowds
of natives I have described as seen in the Polynesian islands ; but they
lack the decency and care of their persons which the islanders exhibit.
The women also go nearly naked, for they wear little else than what
may be termed a breech-cloth, of buckskin, which is black and filthy
with dirt ; and some have a part of a blanket. The children go
entirely naked, the boys wearing nothing but a small string round the
body. It is only necessary to say that some forty or fifty live in a
temporary hut, twenty feet by twelve, constructed of poles, mats, and
cedar bark, to give an idea of the degree of their civilization.

.___»_ _^

—ir-tir!*' , ' ji.

( - !?3=Sx. {• : . -/j

,#***»!*«»*.->..__ -HX— •-• — *\^-~-^ -? .'•''-< j.i /yt-'

FISHING-HUTS AT THE DALLES.

The men are engaged in fishing, and do nothing else. On the
women falls all the work of skinning, cleaning, and drying the fish
for their winter stores. As soon as the fish are caught, they are laid

384 WALLAWALLA.

for a few hours on the rocks, in the hot sun, which permits the skins
to be taken off with greater ease; the flesh is then stripped off the
bones, mashed and pounded as fine as possible ; it is then spread out
on mats, and placed upon frames to dry in the sun and wind, which
effectually cures it ; indeed, it is said that meat of any kind dried in
this climate never becomes putrid. Three or four days are sufficient
to dry a large matfull, four inches deep. The cured fish is then
pounded into a long basket, which will contain about eighty pounds ;
put up in this way, if kept dry, it will keep for three years.

During the fishing season, the Indians live entirely on the heads,
hearts, and offal of the salmon, which they string on sticks, and roast
over a small fire.

The fishing here is very much after the manner of that at Willa-
mette Falls, except that there is no necessity for planks to stand on, as
there are great conveniences at the Dalles for pursuing this fishery.
They use the hooks and spears, attached to long poles : both the hook
and the spear are made to unship readily, and are attached to the pole
by a line four feet below its upper end. If the hook were made per-
manently fast to the end of the pole, it would be liable to break, and
the large fish would be much more difficult to take. The Indians are
seen standing along the walls of the canals in great numbers, fishing,
and it is not uncommon for them to take twenty to twenty-five salmon
in an hour. When the river is at its greatest height, the water in the
canals is about three feet below the top of the bank.

The Dalles is one of the most remarkable places upon the Columbia.
The river is here compressed into a narrow' channel, three hundred feet
wide, and half a mile long; the walls are perpendicular, flat on the
top, and composed of basalt ; the river forms an elbow, being situated
in an amphitheatre, extending several miles to the northwest, and closed
in by a high basaltic wall. From appearances, one is led to conclude
that in former times the river made a straight course over the whole;
but, having the channel deeper, is now confined within the present
limits. Mr. Drayton, on inquiry of an old Indian, through Mr.
Ogden, learned that he believed that in the time of his forefathers they
went up straight in their canoes. In order to illustrate this pass,
Mr. Drayton made a careful diagram of it, which is represented in
the wood-cut on the following page.

Besides the main channel, A, there are four or five other small
canals, through which the water passes when the river is high : these
are but a few feet across. The river falls about fifty feet in the dis-
tance of two miles, and the greatest rise between high and low water
mark, is sixty-two feet. This great rise is caused by the accumulation

WALL AW ALL A.

385

of water in the river above, which is dammed by this narrow pass,
and is constantly increasing, until it backs the waters, and overflows
many low grounds and islands above. The tremendous roar arising
from the rushing of the river through this outlet, with the many
whirlpools and eddies which it causes, may be more readily imagined
than described.

The boat was repaired by the afternoon, and an express was
despatched up the river to Walla walla, in order to prepare the post
for the reception of the brigade, and inform the gentleman who had
charge of it that he would be required to move to the north with the
brigade. The officers of the Company have but little time allowed
them to attend to their comforts : so completely are they under the
control of accident, that they are liable to be called upon at any
moment. Their rights, however, are looked to as much as possible,
and the great principle adopted as the incentive to action, is the
advancement they may obtain by their own merit, through which
alone they can get forward. In consequence of adhering to this prin-
ciple, the Hudson Bay Company are always well served. The disci-
pline that is preserved is the very best, and sits lightly upon all.
Those who do not meet with advancement have some great fault in a
trader's eyes. The enterprise and energy required to serve this Com-
pany well is of no ordinary kind, and few men exhibit more of both
these qualities than those I met with in its employ.

On the morning of the 4th July, they began to pass the portage,
which is a mile in length. It is very rugged, and the weather being
exceedingly warm, many of the Indians were employed to transport
articles on their horses, of which they have a large number. It
required seventy men to transport the boats, which were carried over
bottom upwards, the gunwale resting on the men's shoulders. By night
all was safely transported, the boats newly gummed, and the encamp-
ment formed on a sandy beach. The sand, in consequence of the high
wind, was blown about in great quantities, and every body and thing
was literally covered with it.

2H 49

VOL. IV.

386 WALLAWALLA.

From the nigh hills on the southern bank of the river, there is an
extensive view of the country to the south. The distant part of this
prospect was made up of rolling, barren, and arid hills. These hills,
as well as the country nearer at hand, were covered with a natural hay
or bunch-grass, which affords very nutritious food for cattle.

The missionaries have been stationed at the Dalles since 1838.
The primary object of this mission is, in the first place, to give the
Gospel to the Indians, and next to teach them such arts of civilization
as shall enable them to improve their condition, and by degrees to
become an enlightened community. There are many difficulties that
the missionary has to contend with, in first coming among these people,
none of which are greater than the want of knowledge of their true
character. The missionaries, after a full opportunity of knowing these
Indians, consider covetousness as their prevailing sin, which is exhibited
in lying, dishonest traffic, gambling, and horse-racing. Of the latter
they are extremely fond, and are continually desirous of engaging in it.
This sport frequently produces contentions, which often end in blood-
shed. Stealing prevails to an alarming extent: scarcely any thing that
can be removed is safe. The missionaries have several times had their
houses broken open, and their property more or less damaged. The
stealing of horses in particular is very common, but after being broken
down they are sometimes returned. There are but few chiefs to whom
the appeal for redress can be made, and they can exercise but little
control over such a lawless crew. Those who gather here are gene-
rally the very worst of the tribes around.

The number of Indians within the Dalles mission is reckoned at
about two thousand; in but few of these, however, has any symptom
of reform shown itself. They frequent the three great salmon-fishe-
ries of the Columbia, the Dalles, Cascades, and Chutes, and a few
were found at a salmon-fishery about twenty-five miles up the Chutes
river.

The season for fishing salmon, which is the chief article of food in
this country, lasts during five months, from May to September. The
country also furnishes quantities of berries, nuts, roots, and game, con-
sisting of bears, elk, and deer; but, owing to the improvidence of the
native inhabitants, they are, notwithstanding this ample supply of
articles of food, oftentimes on the verge of starvation.

After the fishing and trading season is over, they retire to their
villages, and pass the rest of the year in inactivity, consuming the
food supplied by the labours of the preceding summer; and as the
season ibr fishing comes round, they again resort to the fisheries.
This is the ordinary course of life among these Indians, whose dissi-

WALLAWALLA. 387

pation has been already spoken of, and will claim more attention
hereafter.

Here again some others demanded their annual token from the
brigade for past services.

The country about the Dalles is broken, and the missionaries report
that this is the case for some miles around. There are, however, also
some plains and table-lands, which are considered as very valuable,
being well watered with springs and small streams; excellent for
grazing, and well supplied with timber — oak and pine. The soil
varies in quality, and portions of it are very rich. Garden vegeta-
bles succeed, but require irrigation. Potatoes also must be watered,
by which mode of culture they succeed well. Corn and peas can be
raised in sufficient quantities. Wheat produces about twenty-five
bushels to the acre: this is not, however, on the best land. They
sow in October and March, and harvest begins towards the end of
June.

The climate is considered healthy; the atmosphere is dry, and there
are no dews. From May till November but little rain falls, but in
winter they have much rain and snow. The cold is seldom great,
although during the winter preceding our arrival the thermometer fell
to — 18° Fahrenheit. The greatest heat experienced in summer was
100° in the shade; but, even after the hottest days, the nights are cool
and pleasant.

At daylight, on the 3d July, the goods were all embarked. When
they reached the Chutes, they again made a portage of their goods
for a quarter of a mile, and in an hour and a half they were again on
their way. During very high water, the fall, whence the place takes
its name, is not visible, but when it is low, there is a fall of ten feet
perpendicular, that occupies nearly the whole breadth of the river.
It is impossible to pass this fall at low water ; but when the river is
swollen, boats shoot it with ease and safety. The Columbia, from the
Chutes as far as John Day's river, is filled with rocks, which occasion
dangerous rapids. The boats were, in consequence, tracked for the
whole distance.

After passing the Dalles, an entirely new description of country is
entered, for the line of woods extends no farther. The last tree stands
on the south side of the river, and is named Ogden's Tree on our map:
it is about six miles above the Dalles. The woods terminate at about
the same distance from the coast in all parts of this region south of the
parallel of 48° N.

The country between these places is decidedly volcanic, and the
banks on either side of the river are rocky and high. In this part of

388

WALLAWALLA.

the country, it is very hot when there is no wind. Mr. Dray ton had
no thermometer, and therefore was unable to ascertain the exact degree
of heat, but any metallic substance exposed to the sun for a short time
could not be grasped in the hand without pain, and the men were
almost exhausted with the heat.

There are a number of villages in this neighbourhood, and among
them Wisham, mentioned in Irving's Astoria. This is situated on
the left bank of the river, and-its proper name is Niculuita ; Wisham
being the name of the old chief, long since dead. There are now in
this village about forty good lodges, built of split boards, with a roof
of cedar bark, as before described. The Indians that live here seem
much superior to those of the other villages; they number four
hundred regular inhabitants, who live, like the rest, upon salmon;
but they appeared to have more comforts about them than any we
had yet seen.

At Niculuita Mr. Drayton obtained a drawing of a child's head that
had just been released from its bandages, in order to secure its flattened
head. Both the parents showed great delight at the success they had
met with in effecting this distortion. The wood-cuts give a correct
idea of the child's appearance.

FRONT VIEW.

SIDE VIEW.

There were from fifty to one hundred Indians constantly follow-
ing the brigade, and aiding the men. The price for half an hour's
service was generally two leaves of tobacco, which was sought after
with great eagerness. These Indians paint their faces with red and
yellow clay. Their women seemed to be of more consequence than
is usual among savages, and some of thorn even took command over
the men.

At John Day's river '_rreat quantities of salmon are taken, and there
are, in consequence, many temporary lodges here. Notwithstanding

WALLA WALLA. 389

this is a rocky region, there are vast quantities of fine sand deposited
every where, which is brought down the river. On this the encamp-
ments are necessarily made ; and the sand is exceedingly dry and hot,
which renders the camping disagreeable. There are few places more
uncomfortable ; for a basaltic wall rises nine hundred or a thousand
feet within two hundred yards of the camp,, which reflects the sun's
rays down upon the beach of white sand, rendering the atmosphere
almost insupportable. To give some idea of the heat, Mr. Drayton
found it uncomfortably hot to sit down upon the rocks an hour after
the sun had set.

One of their amusements at the time of encamping was a rattle-
snake hunt, in which several large ones were killed.

The brigade, as usual, set out early, and with the sun there arose
a fine breeze, which carried them briskly onwards. About eight miles
above their encampment they came to the Hieroglyphic Rocks. These
are about twenty feet high, and on them are supposed to be recorded
the deeds of some former tribe. They passed so quickly that Mr.
Drayton could make only two hasty sketches of them ; and it is to be
regretted that they were not sufficiently perfect to allow of their being
given in this place.

After passing John Day's river, the country becomes much lower
and more arid, and the current comparatively less. The weather was
exceedingly hot, and the drifting sands were in greater quantities than
before, so much so that whole islands were passed entirely composed
of the sand. They now arrived at the long reach, just below Grand
Island ; the country becoming sandy and so flat as to give a view of
the Grand Rapid Hills. It has the appearance of having been, at no
very remote period, the bed of an extensive lake. Here the voyageurs
began to be relieved from their toil at the pole, which they exchanged
for the tow-line and oar, and the Indians departed the moment their
services were no longer wanted. The distance made this day was
fifty-seven miles, for which they were indebted to the breeze. The
day before, they made only sixteen miles.

While passing close along the banks, they met with numerous pin-
tailed grouse, so tame as to allow the boats to approach within a few
feet of them before they would fly.

At their encampment, Mr. Drayton found a large burying-place,
from which he was desirous of getting a skull ; but, to the surprise of
the party, several Indians made their appearance and prevented it.
The corpses were placed above ground, in their clothing, and then
sewed up in a skin or blanket; and the personal property of each
deceased individual was placed near the body: over all were laid a

2H2

390 WALLAWALLA.

few boards, of native construction, placed as a kind of shed to protect
them from the weather.

All along this river, from the Dalles up, there is not a piece of wood
growing, and except occasionally a drift log, there is nothing larger
than a splinter to be found. All the wood used for cooking is bought
from the Indians, who will follow the brigade for many miles with a
long pole or piece of a log, which they sell for a small piece of
tobacco. The Indians also brought for sale several hares, which were
large and of extremely fine flavour.

The country continues to be, as far as can be seen on every side,
a barren and sterile waste, covered with a white sand mixed with
rounded and washed pebbles. All that it produces is a little grass,
some wood, and a species of small Cactus, filled with long white
spines, so hard and sharp that if trodden upon they will penetrate the
leather of a boot.

On the 6th of July the brigade reached the foot of the Grand Rapids,
up which the boats were tracked. They afterwards passed along the
foot of Grand Rapid Hills, which are composed of basalt, old lava, and
scoriae. These hills are steep on the river side, and are fast crum-
bling away and falling into the stream.

Eighteen miles below Wallawalla they passed the Windmill Rock,
about which are a number of curious basaltic peaks. On approaching
Wallawalla the scenery becomes grand : the country is broken into
volcanic peaks, forming many fantastic shapes, resembling figures and
colossal heads : many of them are seen either insulated or in groups ;
some of them are known under the name of the Nine-pins. Through this
pass of volcanic rocks the wind rushes with great violence in summer,
to supply the rarefied portion above. The current had increased very
considerably : it often became necessary for the voyageurs to take a
pipe, or in other words, a rest. When the brigade was in sight from
the fort, the Company's flag was hoisted. Before arriving there, and
within a mile and a half of it, the country becomes again Hat, and
rises very little above the river, when the water is high. The ground
is composed of pebbles and drifting sand for several miles to the east
and to the north, with little or no soil, and nothing grows on it but a
few spears of bunch-grass, and wormwood.

The brigade reached the fort at sunset, when they were received by
Mr. M'Lean, who was in temporary charge of the post: and who
reported himself ready to proceed with his Indian wife and children
with Mr. Ogden : and Mr. M'Kinley took charge of Fort Wallawalla.

Fort Wallawalla is about two hundred feet square, and is built of
pickets, with a gallery or staging on the inside, whence the pickets

WALLAWALLA.

391

may be looked over. It has two bastions, one on the southwest and
the other on the northeast. On the inside are several buildings, con-
structed of logs and mud ; one of these is the Indian store : the whole

FORT WALLAWALLA.

is covered with sand and dust, which is blown about in vast quantities.
The climate is hot ; and every thing about the fort seemed so dry, that
it appeared as if a single spark would ignite the whole and reduce it
to ashes.

The party under Lieutenant Johnson had passed by about a week
previously, on their return to Nisqually.

At all the principal stopping-places, one or two old Indians would
present themselves to Mr. Ogden, to demand their annual present for
services rendered him and the Company.

Many years back, Mr. Ogden, while on his route, wras attacked at
the place where the fort stands, by the Wallawalla tribe, and was
obliged to take refuge on the island near the fort, where he made a
stand and completely routed the Indians. This occurrence took place
twenty-three years before, and was the cause of this post being occu-
pied ; since which time, no attack has been made.

This will give some idea of the dangers the officers and men of the
Hudson Bay Company have to encounter ; and although it is now safe
on the Columbia river, yet there are many parts where they are still
subject to these attacks: the voyageurs have a lot of toil and depriva-
tion, yet few men are to be found so cheerful.

Mr. Ogden informed me, that the most experienced voyageur is
taken as a pilot for the brigade, and he is the bowman of the leading
boat ; which is looked upon as a station of great trust and honour.
Each boat has also its bowman, who is considered the first officer and
responsible man ; the safety of the boat, in descending rapids particu-
larly, depends upon him and the padroon, who steers the boat. They
both use long and large blade-paddles ; and it is surprising how much

392 WALLAWALLA.

power the two can exert over the direction of the boat. These men,
from long training, become very expert, and acquire a coolness and
disregard of danger that claim admiration, and astonishes those who
are unused to such scenes.

To all appearance, there is seldom to be found a more laborious set
of men; nor one so willing, particularly when their remuneration of
no more than seventeen pounds sterling a year, and the fare they
receive, are considered. The latter would be considered with us
incapable of supporting any human being. It consists of coarse un-
bolted bread, dried salmon, fat (tallow), and dried peas. I am satis-
fied that no American would submit to such food : the Canadian and
Troquois Indians use it without murmuring, except to strangers, to
whom they complain much of their scanty pay and food. The dis-
cipline is strict, and of an arbitrary kind ; yet they do not find fault
with it. In Appendix XV., will be found one of the agreements of
the Hudson Bay Company. Very few of those who embark or join
this Company's service ever leave the part of the country they have
been employed in ; for after the expiration of the first five years, they
usually enlist for three more. This service of eight years in a life of
so much adventure and hazard, attaches them to it, and they generally
continue until they become old men ; when, being married, and
having families by Indian women, they retire under the auspices of
the Company, to some small farm, either on the Red or Columbia
rivers. There is no allowance stipulated for their wives or children ;
but one is usually made, if they have been useful. If a man dies,
leaving a family, although the Company is not under any obligation to
provide for them, they are generally taken care of. The officers of
the Company are particularly strict in preventing its servants from
deserting their wives; and none can abandon them without much
secresy and cunning. In cases of this sort, the individual is arrested
and kept under restraint until he binds himself with security not to
desert his family. The chief officers of the Company hold the power
of magistrates over their own people ; and are bound to send fugitives
or criminals back to Canada for trial, where the courts take cogni-
zance of the offences. This perhaps is as salutary and effectual a
preventive against crime, as could be found, even if the courts were
at hand; for whether innocent or guilty, the individual must sufler
great loss by being dragged from the little property he possesses.
The community of old voyageurs, settled in Oregon, are thus con-
strained to keep a strict watch upon their behaviour; and, although
perhaps against their inclinations, are obliged to conform to the wishes
of those whose employ they have left.

WALLAWALLA. 393

The brigade, after remaining at Wallawalla till the 8th, took their
departure. In taking leave of Mr. Ogden, I must express the great
indebtedness I am under, for his attentions and kindness to Mr.
Drayton, as well as for the facility he offered him for obtaining infor-
mation during their progress up the Columbia. Tarn also under obli-
gations to him for much interesting information respecting this country,
which he gave without hesitation or reserve. He was anxious that Mr.
Drayton should accompany him to Okonagan ; but as this route had
just been traversed by another party, it would have been a waste of
the short time he had to spend about Wallawalla. Mr. Ogden is a
general favourite ; and there is so much hilarity, and such a fund of
amusement about him, that one is extremely fortunate to fall into his
company.

After the departure of the brigade, Mr. Drayton set out to visit Dr.
Whitman, in company with Mr. M'Lean, who was to proceed to
Okonagan with horses, to join Mr. Ogden. They rode about twenty
miles before dark, and passed over some of the pastures of the horses
belonging to the Company. An alluvial bank, one hundred feet in height,
was pointed out, over which the wolves had driven part of a band of
the horses of the Company, by surrounding them just before dark. This
took place some months before, and the horses were killed and eaten by
these voracious animals. The wolves are very numerous in this
country, and exceedingly troublesome.

The country passed over on the banks of the Wallawalla, and within
half a mile of it, was green and fertile. This will also apply to the
banks of the small tributaries falling into the Wallawalla. To the north
and south are extensive prairies, covered with the natural hay of the
country, on which the cattle feed ; here these grasses spring up in the
early spring rains, grow luxuriantly, and are afterwards converted
into hay, by the great heat of the month of July. Thus dried, they
retain all their juices. Of this hay the cattle are exceedingly fond,
and prefer it even to the young grass of the meadows bordering the
stream.

The party reached the mission about dark, and were welcomed by
Dr. Whitman and Mr. and Mrs. Gray, of the American Board of
Missions. This station was established in 1837, with three others, and
is known by the name of Waiilaptu. The second station, called
Lapwai (clear water), is at the mouth of the Kooskooskee, under the
Rev. Mr. Spalding. The third was about sixty miles up that river, and
was called Kamia, where the Rev. Mr. Smith was stationed for two
years ; finding, however, that he had no Indians to teach, or within
reach of his station, he abandoned it. The fourth, called Chimikaine,

VOL. iv. 50

394 WALLAWALLA.

is near the river Spokane, under the direction of Messrs. Eels and
Walker, sixty miles south of Colville.

At Waiilaptu there are two houses, each of one story, built of adobes,
with mud roofs, to insure a cooler habitation in summer. There are
also a small saw-mill and some grist-mills at this place, moved by
water. All the premises look very comfortable. They have a fine
kitchen-garden, in which grow all the vegetables raised in the United
States, and several kinds of fine melons. The wheat, some of which
stood seven feet high, was in full head, and nearly ripe; Indian corn
was in tassel, and some of it measured nine feet in height. They will
reap this year about three hundred bushels of wheat, wilh a quantity
of corn and potatoes. The soil, in the vicinity of the small streams, is
a rich black loam, and very deep. The land fit for cultivation along
these streams does not, however, amount to more than ten thousand
acres. This quantity is susceptible of irrigation, and in consequence
can be made to yield most luxuriant crops. In many parts of it, a
natural irrigation seems to take place, owing to the numerous bends
of the small streams, which almost convert portions of the land into
islands. These streams take their rise in the Blue Mountains, a! out
forty miles east of Wallawalla, and are never known to fail. The
climate is very dry, as it seldom rains for seven or eight months in the
year. During the greater part of this time, the country, forty miles
north and south of this strip, has an arid appearance. There are
large herds of horses owned by the Indians, that find excellent pasturage
in the natural hay on its surface.

There is a vast quantity and profusion of edible berries on the banks
of the streams above spoken of, consisting of the service-berry, two
kinds of currants, whortleberry, and wild gooseberries: these the
Indians gather in large quantities, for their winter supplies.

At the time of Mr. Drayton's visit, there were at the mission only
fourteen Indians, including men, women, and children. Those who
usually reside here had gone to the Grande Ronde to trade, a distance
of twenty-five miles.

The Grande Ronde is a plain or mountain prairie, surrounded by
high basaltic walls. This is called by the Indians, "Karpknrp," which
is translated into Balm of Gilead. Its direction from Wallawalla is
east-southeast, and the road to the United States passes through it. It
is fifteen miles long, by twelve wide; and is the place where the
Cayuse, Nez Perec, and Wallawalla Indians meet to trade with tho
Snakes or Shoshones, for roots, skin lodges, elk and buffalo meat, in
exchange for salmon and horses.

Mr. Drayton met with an old Indian at Waiilaptu, who was pointed

W A L L A W A L L A. 395

out as the man who took the first flag that was ever seen in the country
to the Grande Ronde, as the emblem of peace. Lewis and Clarke,
when in this country, presented an American flag to the Cayuse tribe,
calling it a flag of peace ; this tribe, in alliance with the Wallawallas,
had up to that time been always at war with the Shoshones or Snakes.
After it became known among the Snakes that such a flag existed, a
party of Cayuse and Wallawallas took the flag and planted it at the
Grande Ronde, the old man above spoken of being the bearer. The
result has been, that these two tribes have ever since been at peace
with the Snakes, and all three have met annually in this place to trade.
Dr. Whitman confirmed the old man's statement from other evidence
he had received. The Grande Ronde is likewise resorted to for the
large quantities of cammass-root that grow there, which constitutes, as
1 have before remarked, a favourite food with all the Indians.

These missionaries live quite comfortably, and seem contented ; they
are, however, not free from apprehension of Indian depredations. Dr.
Whitman, being an unusually large and athletic man, is held in much
respect by the Indians, and they have made use of his services as a
physician, which does not seem to carry with it so much danger here,
as among the tribes in the lower country, or farther north.

These missionaries have quite a number of cattle and horses, which
require little or no attention, there being an abundance of hay and
grass. The price of a good horse is twenty dollars.

This district is capable of supporting a vast number of cattle. One
Cayuse chief has more than a thousand horses on these feeding
grounds.

The winters are of about three months' duration, and snow lasts
only a short time ; the grass indeed grows all winter. A better idea
of the climate here may be formed from the fact, that Mr. M'Kinley,
of the Hudson Bay Company, who passed from the Snake country
across the Blue Mountains in January, 1841, found the snow on the
mountains five and six feet deep, and the weather very cold ; but when
he descended to these plains the next day, the weather was warm and
pleasant, the grass green, and many flowers in bloom.

On the Wallawalla river trees are again met with : they consist of
the poplar, willow, birch, and alder. The poplar grows to the height
of one hundred feet, and has a diameter near the base of two and a
half feet.

As respects the success of the missionary labours, it is very small
here. The Indians are disposed to wander, and seldom continue more
than three or four months in the same place. After they return from
the Grande Ronde, which is in July, they remain for three or four

396 WALLAWALLA.

months, and then move off to the north and east to hunt buffalo.
After their return from the buffalo-hunt, they are again stationary for
a short time.

Dr. Whitman has one hundred and twenty-four on his rolls, male
and female, that receive instruction in the course of the year. He
preaches to them on the Sabbath, when the Indians are on the Walla-
walla river.

The school consists of about twenty-five scholars daily, and there
appears some little disposition to improve in these Indians. The great
aim of the missionaries is to teach them that they may obtain a suffi-
cient quantity of food by cultivating the ground. Many families of
Indians now have patches of wheat, corn, and potatoes, growing well,
and a number of these are to be seen near the Mission farm.

The Indians have learned the necessity of irrigating their crops, by
finding that Dr. Whitman's succeeded better than their own. They
therefore desired to take some of the water from his trenches instead
of making new ones of their own, which he very naturally refused.
They then dug trenches for themselves, and stopped up the Doctor's.
This had well-nigh produced much difficulty ; but finally they were
made to understand that there was enough water for both, and they
now use it with as much success as the missionaries.

There is much small game in this part of the country, which is
easily obtained with a gun, or by snares. The most numerous are the
grouse, curlew, and two species of hare.

In company with Mr. Gray, Mr. Drayton visited the Blue Moun-
tains. Before reaching the foot of the mountains, they passed through
large bands of horses, belonging to the Cayuse Indians ; the soil
became better, being of a red colour, and formed of decomposed
scoria. Much scoria is here seen in every direction, and the grass
in such places, from receiving more moisture, is more luxuriant.
Mr. Drayton ascended up as far as the snow-line, but had not the
means of ascertaining his altitude; it was, however, from my obser-
vations, about five thousand six hundred feet. They here found the
forest of pines, and the temperature was quite low. From this point
the Wallawalla, with its numerous branches, could be seen threading
its way through the plains beneath, to unite itself with the Columbia
river, yet more distant.

They returned the next day to Fort Wallawalla.

There seems to be a peculiarity about the climate at Wallawalla, not
readily to be accounted for. It has been stated above that little winter
weather is experienced there, and that this mildness is owing to the
hot winds of the south, which sweep along from the extensive sandy

WALLAWALLA.

deserts existing in Upper California. This wind, or simoon, during
the summer, is held in great dread in this part of the country, for it is
of a burning character that is quite overpowering. It generally comes
from the southwest. In consequence of this feature of the climate,
there is very little vegetation near the fort, not only on account of the
heat and dryness, but owing to the vast clouds of drifting sand, which
are frequently so great as to darken the sky. In summer it blows here
constantly, and at night the wind generally amounts to a gale. Mr.
Drayton represents his situation in the northeast bastion of the fort as
quite uncomfortable, from the fear of its being blown down.

The Indian mode of taking salmon was witnessed at this place. It
consists in the erection of a fish-weir of basket-work, supported by
poles. This is placed across the stream, in the form of an acute angle.
This barrier dams the water sufficiently to create a little fall. The
salmon swim up the river at night, and when they reach the barrier,
they jump over the low side, which is down stream, but are unable to
leap the higher one. A little before daylight, the Indians spread their
nets, carefully avoiding to disturb the fish about the weir, and take all
those that have been ensnared. These usually amount to about
twenty-five.

Small parties of the Cay use, Walla wallas, and Nez Perces, were
now returning from the Grande Ronde. They occupied about thirty
lodges, made of poles, mats, and skins, bought from the Shoshones.
The wood-cut of these Indians' lodges will be found at the end of the
chapter.

During the week, the Columbia had fallen ten feet. It is here one
thousand yards wide, and the altitude of Fort Wallawalla above the
sea is twelve hundred and eighty-six feet.

The proximity of these Indians afforded Mr. Drayton an oppor-
tunity of observing them, and having an Indian boy with him, who
understood both their language and English, he had no difficulty in
communicating with them.

The chief of the Wallawallas, who is called Puipui-Marmax (Yel-
low-Bird) and the Nez Perce chief Touwatui, (or Young Chief.) seemed
intelligent and friendly, but the white residents consider them as great
rogues. They were going to the Shaste country to trade for blankets,
powder and ball, together with trinkets and beads, in exchange for their
horses and beaver-skins.

The Company, and the settlers of the Willamette, refuse to trade
either powder or ball in this country, and it is but a short time since
the Indians have been able to obtain any. The reason assigned by
the Company and residents for this restriction is, that the natives

21

398

W ALL AW ALLA.

become quarrelsome and turbulent when they are provided with fire-
arms. On these trips they are accompanied by about thirty warriors,
well armed.

The men are usually clothed in blanket coats ; but, notwithstanding
this slight approximation to civilized habits, they have the air of the
Indian, strongly marked, about them.

MALE COSTUME.

The number of Indians now collected was two hundred. The
women were employed in drying salmon and the cammass-root. Some
of them are employed in cooking, while others are engaged in dressing
skins.

The mode of removing the hair from the skins, is with a round and
broad chisel, fixed on a handle, like an adze : the skin, while yet green,
is laid on a log or board, and the hair chopped off. The smoking
process differs from that already described, at the Cowlitz. A large
hole is dug in the ground, in which a fire is made; the skin is sewed
on the inside of a bag, which is suspended immediately over the fire,
so that little of the smoke can escape, and the process goes on rapidly.
This process is necessary, otherwise it would, on becoming wet, and
drying afterwards, be hard and stiff.

There were many children among these people. The young Indian
women as well as the wives of the Company's servants, who have
married half-breeds, invariably use a long board as a cradle, on which
.he child is strapped, and then hung up on a branch, or to the saddle.

W ALLAW ALLA.

When travelling, a hoop, bent over the head of the child, protects it
from injury. The women are usually dressed in skins very much
ornamented with beads.

FEMALE COSTUME.

Mr. Drayton, during his stay, was attracted one day by the sound
of beating sticks and a kind of unearthly singing, issuing from one of
the lodges. On going to the lodge he found a boy, about eighteen
years of age, lying on his back very ill, and in the last stage of disease.
Over him stood a medicine-woman, an old haggard-looking squaw,
under great excitement, singing as follows :

hi tu e oo ha ha hi tu e oo ha ha ha ha ha ha — ha ha ha ha.

To which shout a dozen men and boys were beating time on the
sticks, and singing a kind of bass or tenor accompaniment. The
words made use of by the old squaw varied, and were any that would
suit the case. She bent over the sick boy, and was constantly in
motion, making all kinds of grimaces. She would bare his chest,
and pretend by her actions to be scooping out his disease; then she
would fall on her knees, and again strive to draw out the bad spirit
with both hands, blowing into them, and, as it were, tossing the spirit
into the air.

400 WALLAWALLA.

The evening of the same day, Mr. Drayton paid another visit to the
same lodge, when he found the medicine-squaw much exhausted. She
was blowing with her mouth on his neck downwards, making a quick
sputtering noise, thus —

ah tut - 1 - t - 1 - tut. tut - 1 - 1 - 1 - tut.

hi tu

While she was uttering this, a man was holding her up by a rope
tied round her waist, while she, bending over the body, began to suck
his neck and chest in different parts, in order more effectually to extract
the bad spirit. She would every now and then seem to obtain some
of the disease, and then faint away. On the next morning she was
still found sucking the boy's chest, and would frequently spit into her
hand a mouthful of saliva and blood, which she had extracted from her
own gums, and spread it with her finger over the palm of her hand,
taking great care that all should see it. She would then pronounce the
boy better, with apparent satisfaction. So powerful was the influence
operated on the boy, that he indeed seemed better, and made endea-
vours to speak. The last time Mr. Drayton visited the doctress, her
patient was found sitting up. She exhibited a stone, about the size of
a goose's egg, saying she had taken the disease of the boy out of him
as large as it, and that he would now get well. The parents were
greatly delighted to hear that their son would recover. The reward
she was to receive was a large basket of dried salmon, weighing eighty
pounds, a blanket, and some other presents.

One singular custom prevailing here is, that all the convalescent sick
are directed to sing for several hours during the day.

It would be a profitable occupation to be a medicine-man or woman,
were it not for the forfeiture in case of a want of success ; but this
applies only where the patient is a person of distinction.

It is seldom that medicine-squaws are met with, as they are by no
means numerous.

It was observed that many of the females were living under a little
hut at some distance from the lodges ; and it was ascertained that
women, during the menstrual period, are not allowed to remain in the
lodges, and are obliged to stay in huts at a distance, managing the
best way they can during its continuance. This custom also prevailed
very strictly after childbirth, and in that case continues for forty days.
This latter custom, however, is not so rigidly adhered to by this tribe,

WALLAWALLA.

at present, as it used to be ; but among the northern tribes it is very
strictly observed.

By the 20th, Mr. Drayton had finished his drawing and sketching,
and obtained the necessary data for the map of the river and the
country surrounding this post, to which it was one of the most central,
and a commanding one for the protection of the country ; and as I
deemed that accurate information respecting it would be desirable, I
had directed his attention particularly to this business. The manner
in which this task was executed was very satisfactory, and merks my
warmest acknowledgments.

In company with Mr. M'Kinley, Mr. Drayton rode to the great
forks of the Columbia. On reaching that place, they made their way
up the south branch, which is a large stream, and navigable for canoes
a short distance above the mouth of the Kooskooskee river.

A remarkable phenomenon occurs on the junction of the waters of
the Columbia and Snake rivers : the Columbia from the north brings
a cold current, while the Snake from the south is warm. This diffe-
rence is perceived even at Wallawalla ; for the water passing along the
east shore near the fort is too warm to drink, and when they desire to
nave cool water for drinking it is brought from the middle of the river
by a canoe.

On the day that Mr. Drayton was to leave Wallawalla, four men,
who had accompanied Mr. Ogden's brigade as far as Okonagan,
returned to Wallawalla on their way back to Vancouver. They brought
no letters from Mr. Ogden.

Mr. M'Kinley furnished Mr. Drayton with horses and Indian guides,
to return with the horses from the Dalles, and the party was increased
by the four voyageurs to the number of eight. By the kindness of Mr.
M'Kinley, and by the direction of Mr. Ogden, Mr. Drayton found him-
self fitted with good horses and every convenience requisite for the
journey, besides a quantity of provisions. The first night they encamped
near the Windmill Rock, having travelled a distance of thirteen miles.

The voyageurs, however, were found destitute of almost every
thing, and spoke of their having been furnished with only a little
tobacco, to carry them from Okonagan to Vancouver. Knowing Mr.
Ogden's character as I do, I cannot believe that such was the fact.
There were some, however, found by Mr. Drayton destitute of every
thing, and he provided these with supper from his own stores, after
which they lay down on the ground to sleep, without any shelter
whatever. The general impression is, that these men are badly found
and cared for.

VOL. iv. 2I2 51

402 WALLAWALLA.

They chose the left or south bank of the Columbia for their descent.
Although the road on the north is the shortest, that on the south is
better. In passing along, trails are seen, many sometimes joining
together; which mark the routes of the Indians in their journeys
across the country.

The next night they encamped within fifteen miles of John Day's
river. Near, their encampment there were several lodges, containing
about forty Indians. At sunset, at the lodge of the old chief, a little
bell was rung, when they all repaired thither and joined in devotions,
the leader praying very loud. On the prayer being finished, they
commenced gambling, and kept it up all night; but when the sun
rose they again resorted to the lodge of the chief for prayer as before.
During the. whole night they made a most tremendous noise, singing
and beating with sticks on splintered rails, which is the only substitute
they have for a musical instrument.

The country had been easily travelled over until John Day's river
was approached, when the route became extremely rough and rocky.
On the banks of that river is a large village of about sixty Indians,
and they were ferried across the stream for a pound of tobacco, while
the horses swam over.

These Indians were as great extortioners as the others, and de-
manded tobacco, powder, and ball. The latter articles they are most
desirous of obtaining, as the possession of them enables them to visit
their hunting-grounds at the foot of Mount Hood.

The musquitoes were again found here in numbers ; but the upper
country seems to be entirely free from that annoyance.

The country from this ferry to the Chutes river is a flat prairie, half
a mile wide, high enough not to be overflowed, and tolerably well
watered, overgrown with small grass. The party passed the Chutes
river before sunset, and encamped on its western bank.

On the morning of the 24th, they reached the Dalles. Mr. Drayton
found this place entirely altered in its appearance, so much so that
he could hardly realize that it was the same. The water had fallen
during the twenty days of his absence about thirty feet, and was still
subsiding. The Columbia was now confined within high perpen-
dicular rocks; the beach, where he had before stood, and been able
to touch the water with his hand as it passed through the confined
banks, was now far above it, and the river, instead of rushing through
its many canals, was now confined to a single one. It still, however,
rushed along with all the fury and violence of a mighty torrent, and
had yet as much as twenty-seven feet to fall to low water. In this

WALLAWALLA. 403

state of the river the Company's boats frequently shoot or descend it,
but this is at all times an exploit of great danger. Many fearful acci-
dents have taken place with the most experienced boatmen, who with
all their skill could not preserve themselves from being carried into
the vortices, drawn under, and destroyed.

Such is the peculiar nature of the rush of waters through the
Dalles, that for some minutes the whole will appear quite smooth,
gliding onwards as though there were no treachery within its flow,
when suddenly the waters will begin to move in extended and slow
whirls, gradually increasing in velocity until it narrows itself into
almost a funnel shape, when, having drawn towards it all within its
reach, it suddenly engulfs the whole, and again resumes its tranquil
state.

An awful accident was related to me by Mr. Ogden, of which he
was an eye-witness, which will more clearly illustrate the nature of the
place.

Mr. Ogden was descending the river in one of the Company's boats
with ten Canadian voyageurs, all well experienced in their duties.
On arriving at the Dalles, they deemed it practicable to run them, in
order to save the portage. Mr. Ogden determined, however, that he
would pass the portage on foot, believing, however, the river was in
such a state that it was quite safe for the boat to pass down. He was
accordingly landed, and ascended the rocks, from which he had a full
view of the water beneath, and of the boat in its passage. At first she
seemed to skim over the waters like the flight of a bird ; but he soon
perceived her stop, and the struggle of the oarsmen, together with the
anxious shout of the bowman, soon told him that they had encountered
the whirl. Strongly they plied their oars, and deep anxiety if not fear
was expressed in their movements. They began to move, not for-
wards, but onwards with the whirl: round they swept with increasing
velocity, still struggling to avoid the now evident fate that awaited
them: a few more turns, each more rapid than the last, until they
reached the centre, when, in an instant, the boat with all her crew dis-
appeared. So short had been the struggle, that it was with difficulty
Mr. Ogden could realize that all had perished. Only one body out of
the ten was afterwards found at fhe bottom of the Dalles, torn and
mangled by the strife it had gone through.

Mr. Drayton found that as many as half of the Indians had left their
fishing. He noticed here, in attempting to make a bargain for canoes
to take him as far as the Cascades, the same habit of extortion that
was before evinced. In all cases, it seems to be a part of the Indian

404 WALLAWALLA.

character to take advantage of distresses and wants. He was finally
obliged to give four times as much as it ought to have cost to execute
the work ; and after the bargain was made, they informed him they
must be paid before they launched the canoe; and when that was
done, a fathom of tobacco must be given to each of them for launching
her. This demand was not complied with, and the goods that had
been paid were now seized and taken away again. Mr. Drayton then
proceeded to the mission, where Mr. Lee kindly offered his canoe.
This was accordingly put on an ox-cart, — for it is necessary to keep
it near his house to prevent its being stolen, — and carried to the water.
When they reached the river, the two canoes above spoken of were
seen near the landing-place, and the owners offered them for a much
less price, and without any " potlatch." Their offer was then accepted,
when he embarked, and proceeded down the river about twelve miles,
where they encamped.

At daylight the next morning there was not an Indian to be found,
and two of the best paddles were gone, as well as the men's salmon.
On a search being made, the fish were found hidden in the bushes.
After leaving the shore, they were called to by the Indian, and on
returning to him, the only excuse he offered was, that he had been
asleep, and had but just awoke: he, however, ran off into the bush
again. After they joined the other canoe, the old Indian in it said that
the one who had run away had endeavoured to persuade him to steal
Mr. Dray ton's things ; and when they landed at night the plan was to
take the canoe and all off, when he was on shore : this was prevented
by their carefully putting all the things into the tent.

When they reached the Cascades, an examination was made of the
pine stumps before spoken of.

The same evening a boat reached the salmon-fishery, by which Mr.
Drayton returned to Vancouver, where he met with the same kind
reception and welcome he had before received.

From this trip, Mr. Drayton brought with him the materials for the
construction of a map of the river, above the Cascades as far as
Wallawalla, which has been incorporated in our chart of Oregon, and
will be found in the small atlas accompanying the Narrative. I take
this occasion to say, that I have embraced within this the whole of the
territory of Oregon between the parallels of 42° and 54° N. The
southern pass of the Rocky Mountains is also included, which was
taken from the surveys of Lieutenant Fremont, of the United States
Engineer Corps, and which I have designated as Fremont's Pass.
This officer is now engaged in an exploration of the country about the

WALLAWALLA.

405

Youta Lake and the middle section of the territory, in a line on the
east of the Cascade Range, from John Day's river to the south, — a
portion of the country it was my intention to have traversed, if the
Peacock had reached the Columbia river at the appointed time.

SKIN LODGK.

CHAPTER XII.

CONTENTS.

BAKERY AT NISQUALLY — PROGRESS OF THE SURVEYS -LOSS OP AN EYE- PIECE —
FRUITLESS SEARCH FOR IT-SURVEY OF HOOD'S CANAL— CELEBRATION OF FOURTH
OF JULY — VISIT FROM DR. M'LAUGHLIN — MOUNT RAINIER AND OTHER SNOWY
MOUNTAINS — EXPEDITION TO THE BUTE PRAIRIES — FARM OF THE COMPANY AT
NISQUALLY— SURVEY OF PUGET SOUND-RETURN OF LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S PARTY
— DISADVANTAGES OF THE POST AT NISQUALLY — NISQUALLY INDIANS — LIEUTE-
NANT JOHNSON'S OPERATIONS — EQUIPMENT OF HIS PARTY— HIS GUIDE— HIS FIRST
CAMP — HIS SECOND CAMP — PUYALLUP RIVER — DIFFICULT PATHS — LARGE ARBOR
VIT.E TREES— SMALOCHO RIVER— LOSS OF CAMP EQUIPAGE — GREAT SIZE OF THE
SPRUCE TREES — LA TETE MOUNTAIN — LITTLE PRAIRIE— CAMP AT THE EDGE OF
THE SNOW— DISTANT VIEW OF MOUNT RAINIER-SUMMIT OF THE RIDGE -ACCIDENT
TO THE CHRONOMETER — INDIANS DISMISSED — SMALOCHO RIVER — FIRE IN THE
WOODS— YAKIMA TRIBE — INTERVIEW WITH ITS CHIEF-HE EXCHANGES HORSES —
ANOTHER VIEW OF MOUNT RAINIER — SPOKANE INDIANS — YAKIMA RIVER— VERY
ELEVATED GROUNDS — DESCENT TOWARDS THE COLUMBIA — COLUMBIA RIVER— PIS-
CHOUS RIVER — INDIAN CULTIVATION — VIEW OF THE COLUMBIA— POINT DE BOIS—
OKONAGAN INDIANS— HIGH PRAIRIE-MOUNT ST. PIERRE — FORT OKONAGAN— FORT
THOMPSON — ARRIVAL OF MR. MAXWELL — FOOD OF THE INDIANS, AND OF THE
COMPANY'S SERVANTS — AMUSEMENT OF THE INDIANS — DEPARTURE FROM FORT
OKONAGAN — LIEUTENANT JOHNSON LOSES HIS WAY— GRASSY PRAIRIE — GRANDE
COULEE— ARTIFICIAL HORIZON BROKEN— LIEUTENANT JOHNSON LEAVES THE PARTY
-THE PARTY ARRIVES AT FORT COLVILLE— LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S RIDE UP THE
SPOKANE— MISSIONARY STATION OF CHIMIKAINE— CORNELIUS, CHIEF OF THE SPO-
KANE TRIBE — SINGULAR PROPHECY — LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S ARRIVAL AT FORT
COLVILLE.

CHAPTER XII.

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.
1841.

ON my return to Nisqually, my first care had reference to our pro-
vision of bread. This I found to be so far expended as to make it
necessary to economize it by every means in my power, if I wished
to avoid its falling short. I therefore determined to attempt to have
fresh bread baked. With this view I had an oven built upon a plan
borrowed from the steam-holes of the Indians. The bottom of the
oven was formed upon a stage of plank, and the shape of the super-
structure was given by bending twigs of hazel. These were covered
with a plastic clay, which was found in abundance in the neighbour-
hood. A dough-trough was hollowed out of the trunk of a large tree.
When the oven and trough were ready, another difficulty was to be
overcome, for we had no bakers. This was remedied, however, by
the assistance of our stewards and cooks ; and two sailors instructed
by them were appointed to take charge of the bakery. We now
began to bake daily, and succeeded so well after a day or two, that
the whole ship's company was daily supplied with full rations of soft
bread, causing an important saving in our store of sea-biscuit.

I learned, immediately upon my return, that the surveys under Lieu-
tenant-Commandant Ringgold and Lieutenant Case, were making
rapid progress. The former, with the force under him, had completed
a large portion of Admiralty Inlet ; the latter had finished Hood's
Canal, and had returned to take up the survey of Puget Sound. A
report having been made to me, that one of the eye-pieces of the theo-
dolite had been lost in Hood's Canal, Lieutenant Budd was ordered to
relieve Lieutenant Case, and the latter was despatched to search for
it. Lieutenant Case proceeded in a boat well armed, and visited all

VOL. iv. aK 52 (409)

410 PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

the stations he had before occupied, and became well satisfied that it
had been stolen. While looking for it, a canoe with three Toandos
joined him, and on learning what he was looking for, they said it was
among the Scocomish tribe, and gave a full account of its having
been picked up by a woman who was sitting near when the box was
opened. Lieutenant Case took one of the men with him up the canal,
to point out the place; on reaching which, they proceeded to the
chief's house, who was absent, but soon returned. Lieutenant Case
asked him for the missing article ; the possession of which being
denied, he took the chief's gun, telling him it would be kept until the
eye-piece was restored. After several fruitless attempts, it could not
be obtained ; for the woman, it was said, had taken it down the canal.
The chief, however, promised to follow her, which he did the next
day. The next morning Lieutenant Case was threatened with an
attack by eight canoes, which he avoided by making sail down the
canal, when they desisted from following him. During the day he
met the chief returning. He had been to the Scocomish village,
having heard that a girl there had something resembling it, as he said,
but it proved to be a cologne-bottle.

Lieutenant Case, finding that his party was too small to attempt
force, restored the chief his gun. He was afterwards informed that
the chief's object in visiting the villages on the canal, had been to
collect his warriors. After leaving the chief, they were followed by a
canoe containing five of the largest and most muscular men he had
seen; all of whom were armed, and apparently disposed for some
mischief. Although satisfied that the eye-piece was among them,
Lieutenant Case deemed it prudent not to risk an encounter with such
unequal odds, and returned to the ship. He was desirous of being
furnished with a larger force, in order to return and obtain the eye-
piece; but believing that a message would be equally effective, Mr.
Anderson, at the fort, was obliging enough to despatch a war-messen-
ger, to inform the tribe, that if it were not brought back, I would
punish them.

Lieutenant Case's survey of Hood's Canal was very satisfactory.
fts banks, as far as Tskutska Point, do not exceed one hundred feet
in height, and are formed of stratified clay, with a light gravelly soil
above it, thickly covered with different species of pines. This is also
the character of the eastern shore, for the whole extent of the canal ;
but the west and north shores above this point become more bold and
rocky, with a deeper and richer soil, formed by the alluvial deposits
from the Mount Olympus Range.

On entering the canal, they encamped near sc me Suquamish Indians,

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN. 41 1

who had received as visitors a party of fifty Clalams, by appointment
to gamble for blankets: they continued their games throughout the
night.

At Tskutska Point, the canal divides in two branches; one taking a
northerly direction, while the other pursues its course to the southwest.
After leaving the Suquamish, they met the Toandos, a small tribe,
inhabiting the mountains ; who, from their own account, are able to
muster one hundred and fifty warriors.

Lieutenant Case reports them as the best-looking men they had met
with. After passing further down the canal, they found the Scocomish
tribe, who inhabit its southern end. These resemble in appearance the
Toandos, with whom they are in close alliance, and have one hundred
and fifty fighting men.

The canal was not found to terminate at the place where the
examination of Vancouver ended ; but, taking a short turn to the
northward and eastward for ten miles, it approaches the waters of
Puget Sound within a distance of two and a half miles. The inter-
vening country is rough and hilly. From this point, Lieutenant Case
had communication with the ship ; and a supply of bread, of which he
was in want, was sent him.

At the southern extremity of Hood's Canal, there is a large inlet,
called Black Creek, by which the Indians communicate with the
Chickeelees and Columbia rivers.

Before reaching the southern end of the canal, the rocky shore of
the west side, near Mount Olympus, had gradually sloped into low
land, with a thickly-wooded and good soil.

At the extreme end of the canal, there was also a wide creek, which
had an extensive mud-flat at its mouth. This is the case with all the
creeks that empty into these waters. The water in the centre of the
sound is too deep for anchorage ; but there are several good harbours,
of all which surveys were made. They will be found in the Hydro-
graphical Atlas.

There is plenty of water in the small harbours ; and some few of
them have water enough running into them to turn mills. There is no
very great extent of country for cultivation, and the climate is very
similar to that experienced at Nisqually. The survey being completed,
the boats returned to the ship on the 3d of July.

During this time we had been steadily employed at the observatory,
and by the 4th I had completed the pendulum and astronomical obser-
vations.

Wishing to give the crew a holiday on the anniversary of the Decla-
ration of our Independence, and to allow them to have a full day's

412 PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

frolic and pleasure, they were allowed to barbecue an ox, which the
Company's agent had obligingly sold rne. They were permitted to
make their own arrangements for the celebration, which they con-
ducted in the following manner.

The place chosen for the purpose was a corner of the Mission
Prairie, before spoken of. Here they slaughtered their ox, and spitted
him on a sapling supported over the fire, which was made in a trench.
The carcass could thus be readily turned, and a committee of the crew
was appointed to cook him. Others were engaged in arranging the
amusements, &c. All was activity and bustle on the morning of the
5th, as the 4th fell upon Sunday. Before nine o'clock all the men were
mustered on board in clean white frocks and trousers, and all, including
the marines and music, were landed shortly after, to march to the scene
of festivity, about a mile distant. The procession was formed at the
observatory, whence we all marched off with flags flying and music
playing, Vendovi and the master-at-arms bringing up the rear. Vendovi
was dressed out after the Feejee fashion. It was truly gratifying to
me to see them all in such good health and spirits, not a man sick, and
their clothes as white as snow, with happy and contented faces.

Had it not been for the want of news from the Peacock, and the
consequent apprehensions in relation to her fate, I should have felt and
enjoyed the scene much more than I did. But the continual feeling
that the ship might have been lost on some coral reef, and the idea of
the sufferings her officers and crew would, in such, case, undergo,
tended to repress all other thoughts. This anxiety was not only felt
by myself, but the officers and crew partook of it in a great degree.
It was impossible to conjecture her fate, yet her continued absence and
detention beyond the time of her anticipated arrival, naturally excited
many fears and surmises, which, as the time passed on, made each one
more certain that some disaster had befallen them.

Two brass howitzers were also carried to the prairie to fire the
usual salutes. When the procession reached Fort Nisqually, they
stopped, gave three cheers, and waited, sailor-like, until it was re-
turned. This was done by only a few voices, a circumstance which
did not fail to produce many jokes among the seamen. On reaching
the ground, various games occupied the crew, while the officers also
amused themselves in like manner. At the usual hour, dinner was
piped, when all repaired to partake of the barbecue. By this time, the
Indians had gathered from all quarters, and were silently looking on
at the novel sight, and wistfully regarding the feast which they saw
going on before them. At this time the salute was fired, when one of
the men, by the name of Whitehorn, had his arm most dreadfully

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAG AN. 4] 3

lacerated from the sudden explosion of the gun. This accident put a
momentary stop to the hilarity of the occasion. Dr. Fox, who was
on the ground, thought that amputation of the arm above the elbow
would be necessary, but it was deemed better to delay it for a time.
The wound was dressed as well as it could be, and a litter was made,
on which he was at once sent, under charge of his messmates, to the
ship. Men-of-war's men are somewhat familiar with such scenes, and,
although this accident threw a temporary gloom over the party, the
impression did not last long, and the amusements of the morning were
now exchanged for the excitement of horse-racing, steeds having been
hired for the purpose from the Indians. This sport is always a favourite
with sailors on shore, and in pursuit of it they had not a few tumbles,
but fortunately none were seriously hurt. At sunset they all returned
on board, in the same good order they had landed.

All the officers, together with Mr. Anderson, Captain M'Niel, and
Dr. Richmond, dined with me at the observatory, and we were in
hopes of having the company of Dr. M'Laughlin ; but, owing to his
having lost his way, he did not arrive until the following morning. He
was gladly welcomed, and it gave us all great pleasure to acknowledge
the attentions that had been heaped upon us by his order, and the
kindness of the officers of the fort.

He paid me a visit on board, and felt greatly pleased with the ship,
which was the first man-of-war he had ever been on board of. On his
leaving the vessel, the yards were manned, and three hearty cheers
given him by the crew, who were aware of his kindness in ordering
them a supply of fresh provisions. He dined with us, and the next
morning returned to the Cowlitz Farm, on his way back to Van-
couver.

After the rejoicings were ended, the surveying party was again
despatched to complete the survey of Puget Sound.

The height of Mount Rainier was obtained by measuring a base
line on the prairies, in which operation I was assisted by Lieutenant
Case, and the triangulation gave for its height, twelve thousand three
hundred and thirty feet.

While engaged in these duties, I noticed from a point of the prairie,
the white cones of both Mount St. Helen's and Mount Hood very dis-
tinctly. These mountains all resemble each other closely, and appear
in some points of view as perfect cones. They give great interest and
grandeur to the scenery. Mount Rainier is at all times a very striking
object from the prairies about Nisqually, rising as it does almost im-
perceptibly from the plain, with a gradual slope, until the snow-line is
reached, when the ascent becomes more precipitous.

2K2

414 PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

The ascent of these mountains has never been effected, but it xvas
my intention to attempt it, if my other duties had permitted, as I was
very anxious to get a view of their terminal craters. The absence of
the Peacock, however, and the great amount of work necessarily
devolving on the rest of the squadron, made it impossible for me to
undertake this additional labour.

Around Nisqually there are many beautiful rides, and if there were
any vehicles, they would be equally favourable as drives ; for the
country admits of a carriage being driven in almost any direction,
within many miles of the fort.

The Company have as yet few fields enclosed, nor is it necessary
that they should have, so long as the cattle are watched and penned in
at night. The practice of penning is adopted, not only to protect the
animals from the wolves, but to save the manure and apply it to a
useful purpose. These pens are about half an acre in size, and are
enclosed with our Virginia fence, made of pine rails. They are moved
once a week, which, in the course of the year, gives a fertilizing effect
to a large piece of ground; and all those portions of it that have been
poor and barren are thus brought readily, and at little expense or
labour, under good cultivation.

On this farm there were about two hundred acres under cultivation,
which I was informed would yield fifteen bushels of wheat to the acre, and
it is intended to convert it into a grazing farm, for which purpose a stock
of cattle was on its way from California, during the year of our visit.

It is estimated that three thousand sheep, fifteen hundred head of
cattle, and about four hundred horses, may be maintained at this place.
Mr. Anderson, a clerk of the Company, whom I have mentioned as
being in charge of the post, receives no more than one hundred pounds
for his superintendence.

The observatory duties being completed, I set out, with Lieutenant
Budd and Mr. Eld, in three boats, to join the surveying party under
Lieutenant Case. Mr. Anderson accompanied us, on a visit to the
Shute's River Falls, where we intended to take horses, to ride to the
Bute Prairie, with some men, to open several of the mounds, to dis-
cover their contents, if they had any.

By the stupidity of the Indian guide, we took the wrong arm of the
sound, and did not discover our error until we reached its extreme
limit, where, as night overtook us, we were forced to encamp.

The next day, however, we reached the falls, which were insignifi-
cant, both in height and volume of water. This arm, which I have
called Budd's, is a fine harbour, nine miles in depth, and about half a
mile wide.

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN. 415

After forming our encampment near by (which was surrounded by
Seringias in full blossom), and giving Lieutenant Budd and Mr. Eld
orders, Mr. Anderson and myself, with six men, set off for the Bute
Prairie, with shovels and picks. We reached the place about five
o'clock, through a rain which had wet the bushes and undergrowth so
much, that in passing through the Indian trails, we were completely
drenched. These bushes consisted principally of Rubus and Alder. On
our route we passed several beautiful and secluded prairies, of excellent
soil, and covered with many flowers. The men began their digging
early in the morning. These mounds have been formed by scraping
the surface earth together in a heap. The soil, therefore, is very rich,
and they have a rank growth of vegetation on them. Much of this
rich earth or mould must have been brought from a distance. The
regularity of their construction and shape, as well as the space over
which they are scattered, are surprising. Although I could obtain no
direct information respecting them, I was one day told that the
medicine-man gathered his herbs from them, to make the decoctions
with which he effects his cures.

Although all tradition concerning them may be lost, yet the custom
of these medicine-men may have survived, and taking into considera-
tion the influence they have had and still have over the tribes, it is
possible that their predecessors might have had something to do with
the formation of these monuments. They certainly are not places of
burial. They bear the marks of savage labour, and are such an under-
taking as would have required the united efforts of a whole tribe.

The hole, which was dug directly in the centre, was about four feet
in diameter. At a depth of about six feet was found a kind of pave-
ment of round stones, laid on the subsoil of red gravel. No articles
of any description were discovered in the mounds,
which seemed to be grouped in fives, as in the figure
annexed. Although there is a general resemblance
among them, they evidently have been constructed
successively, and at intervals of several years. I heard
it suggested that they had been formed by water-courses, but this I view
as impossible, for they are situated on a level prairie, and are at least
a thousand in number.

Observations for latitude and longitude were obtained here, but the
weather did not permit me to get angles on Mount Rainier, as I was
desirous of doing. The next day I parted with my friend, Mr.
Anderson, who desired to return to Nisqually, while we returned to the
falls. The ride was more disagreeable than we had before found it,
and I felt heartily glad to get back to the surveying parties.

416 PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

On the 12th, at seven o'clock, we began our surveying operations,
and after a hard day's work, joined Lieutenant Case's party, when I
took charge of the whole. My force, which now consisted of seven
boats and their crews, was sufficiently strong to make rapid progress :
the putting up of signals, the triangulation, and soundings, were all
carried on at the same time. When we reached our encampment at
night, the rough draft of our day's work was completed. We con-
tinued thus employed until the 17th, when we reached the ships, having
completed the surveys of all the numerous branches of this sound :
these all afford safe navigation for large vessels. The land is low, and
well covered with various kinds of trees, among which the pine pre-
dominates : the other trees, consisting of spruces, oaks, arbutus, alders,
and great quantities of seringias in full blossom, reminded me of our
gardens at home. The perfume of the flowers scented the air for a
long distance around. Some of the seringia-bushes were from twelve
to fifteen feet high.

The soil is in some places good, but in others it is quite light and
sandy. At the head of all the branches there are extensive mud-flats,
and some small patches of salt meadow. We did not meet with many
natives : those who inhabit this region were probably employed in
taking fish, and they seldom remain in any place beyond the time
necessary for this purpose.

On my return to the ship, I found that Lieutenant Johnson had
returned, with the party of which he had charge. I shall therefore
give in this place an account of their journey, and the country through
which they passed, referring the reader to my orders to Lieutenant
Johnson, in Appendix XII., for the route intended to be passed over,
and the duties to be performed. But before leaving Nisqually, I have
a few words to say about its position, and the Indian tribe of that
name.

The situation of Nisqually is badly chosen for trade, for the anchor-
age is of small extent, and only a few vessels can be accommodated
within a reasonable distance of the shore. It would also be much ex-
posed to the southwest winds, and the hill is an insuperable objection
to its becoming a place of deposit for merchandise, as it would very
much increase the labour and expense of transportation. The Xis-
qually fort or post was chosen, as I have been informed, before the
Company had an idea of transporting any articles by water. It has,
however, one great recommendation, in the ease with which water may
be obtained from the stream that flows in abreast of the anchorage.
Much better places than Nisqually could be found in this vicinity, for
the location of a town. There is one, in particular, just within Kitron's

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN. 417

Island, about a mile and a half to the north of Nisqually anchorage,
where the shore has a considerable indentation. There, although the
water is deep, vessels would be protected from the winds which blow
most violently, from the southwest, southeast, and northwest, and also
from any sea, while Nisqually is not: this place is equally well supplied
with water, and the hill is by no means so precipitous.

The spring tides were found to be eighteen feet, those of the neaps
twelve feet. High water, at the full and change, at 6h 10m, p. M.
During the whole of our stay there was found to be a great discrepancy
between the day and night tides, the latter not rising as high as the
former by two feet.

The country in this vicinity is thought to be remarkably healthy,
and on all these salt-water inlets, the winter is represented to be mild,
and but of short duration. The mean temperature, six feet under
ground, during our stay at the observatory, from the 20th of May till
the 14th of July, was found to be 58-5°. I was not fully satisfied that
this record gave correct results for the mean temperature of the
climate, although frosts do not penetrate the ground ; for by the same
manner of trying it, and under almost the same circumstances, at
Astoria, we obtained only 54°, although that place is a degree to the
south of Nisqually.

The geographical position of Nisqually will be found in the tables.
The greatest range of temperature was found to be 55°, the lowest
37° ; and the mean, during the same period, 63-87° : the barometer
standing at 29-970 in.

The Indians around Nisqually are few in number, and the whole
tribe does not amount to two hundred, including men, women, and
children. They belong to the tribes who flatten their heads, and are
represented as vicious and exceedingly lazy, sleeping all day, and
sitting up all night to gamble. So strong is the latter propensity
among all these tribes, that it is said, that after parting with all their
movable property, they will go so far as to stake their wives and
children, and lastly even themselves for years of slavery.

Their clothing seldom consists of more than a blanket, a pair of
skin breeches, and moccasins. Little or no distinction of rank seems
to exist among them : the authority of the chiefs is no longer recog-
nised, and each individual is left to govern himself.

They are addicted to stealing, and will run some risk to effect their
object : thus, several blankets were stolen from the hammocks of our
men while asleep in their tents, although a sailor was known to be on
guard with loaded arms, only a few paces from the spot. Mr. Ander-
son informed me that he had employed several of them to till the land,

VOL. iv. 53

418 PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

but he found them disinclined to work, although he admitted they were
more apt than he had anticipated. This tribe, so far as respects the
ability of committing depredations on the whites, is quite harmless, and
is rapidly thinning off through diseases contracted by a change of
habits. They are all of a wandering character, and change their
residences in search of their food, which consists principally of fish,
particularly shell-fish. Clams are seen in great quantities among them,
strung on sticks, upon which they have been preserved by drying and
smoking. They also store up pounded salmon, and the cammass-root.
In the fall and winter they are supplied with an abundance of game
and wild-fowl, on which they then live ; but they are not upon the
whole well fed, as they are little disposed to exert themselves to pro-
cure a supply of food, when they are not in actual want. In the
winter several families live together in their large board lodges: when
the spring comes on they again break up, and resort in small parties
to those places where they can obtain their food most easily. This
tribe, as is the case with most of those in the territory, speak a pecu-
liar language among themselves, but in communication with others
they use the Chinook language.

As the spring is opening, small parties of these Indians may be
frequently seen on their way, with their goods and chattels tied on
their horse's back, or in small canoes, to the different cammass and
fishing grounds.

During the salmon-fishery, vast shoals of young herring are seen,
which the Indians take with a
kind of rake attached to the
paddle. The herring are used
for bait for the salmon. Their
hooks are made in an inge-
nious manner of the yew tree,
and are strong and capable of

r FISH-HOOKS.

catching the large fish. They

are chiefly employed in trailing for fish. A species of rock cod is
also abundant, some of which exceed fifty pounds in weight. Floun-
ders are also to be had in great quantities.

I have before stated that Lieutenant Johnson's party was ready for
departure on the 19th May; that it consisted of Lieutenant Johnson,
Messrs. Pickering, Waldron, and Brackenridge, a sergeant of ma-
rines, and a servant. I must do justice to the exertions of this oil' -or
in getting ready for his journey, which he accomplished in less time
than I anticipated, as the delays incident to setting out on a novel ex-
pedition, and one believed by most persons to be scarcely practicable

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN. 419

in the summer season, are great and tantalizing. In making prepa-
rations for such a journey, the Indians were to be bargained with,
and, as I have before had occasion to remark, are enough to tire the
patience of Job himself. First, the Indian himself is to be sought out;
then the horse is to be tried ; next the price is to be discussed, then the
mode of payment, and finally the potlatch : each and all are matters
of grave consideration and delay, during which the Indians make a
business of watching every circumstance of which they can take ad-
vantage. No one can be sure of closing his bargain, until the terms
are duly arranged, the potlatch given, and the horse delivered. After
obtaining horses, Lieutenant Johnson had the saddles, alforcas, saddle-
cloths, saddle-trees or pack-saddles, &c., with a variety of lashings, to
prepare. For many of these we were indebted to the kindness of
Captain M'Niel and Mr. Anderson. Others were made on board the
ship, after a pattern lent us. One of the most important persons to
obtain was a good guide, and hearing of one who resided at the
Cowlitz river, by the name of Pierre Charles, he was at once sent for ;
but I did not think it worth while to detain the party until his arrival,
as he could easily overtake it. Lieutenant Johnson, therefore, was
directed to hurry his departure, and to set out, which he did on the
19th May, at noon, and proceeded to the prairie about two miles dis-
tant, where the party encamped.

There is little danger on these expeditions of having too few arti-
cles : the great difficulty is to avoid having too many. It turned out
as I had anticipated. The first night passed in their tent fully satisfied
them of this, and taught them to dispense with all other bedding save
blankets.

Mr. Anderson rode to the encampment before night, bringing the
news of the arrival of Pierre Charles at the fort ; whereupon Lieu-
tenant Johnson returned to make an agreement with him and his com-
panion. This was done, although, as is to be supposed, their demands
were exorbitant, in consequence of the belief that their services were
indispensable.

Pierre Charles's companion was a young man, named Peter Ber-
cier, (a connexion of Plurnondon,) who spoke English, and all the
languages of the country.

On the morning of the 20th, they obtained an accession to their
horses, and set out on their route towards the mountains. Although
the possibility of crossing them was doubted, yet I felt satisfied if ex-
ertion and perseverance could effect the object, the officer who had
charge of the party would succeed. This day, they made but five
miles; after which they encamped, at the recommendation of Pierre

420 PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

Charles, in order that the horses might not be over-fatigued, and be
able to get good pasture and water. Here a number of natives visited
the camp. Pine trees were in large numbers, many of them upwards
of one hundred and thirty feet in height. On the banks of a small
stream, near their camp, were found the yellow Ranunculus, a species
of Trillium, in thickets, with large leaves and small flowers, Lupines,
and some specimens of a cruciferous plant.

On the 21st they made an early start, and in the forenoon crossed
the Puyallup, a stream about seventy feet wide; along which is a fine
meadow of some extent, with clumps of alder and willow : the soil
was of a black turfy nature. After leaving the meadow-land, they
began to ascend along a path that was scarcely visible from being
overgrown with Gaultheria, Hazel, Spiraea, Vaccinium, and Cornus.

During the day, they crossed the Stehna. In the evening, after
making sixteen miles, they encamped at the junction of the Puyallup
with the Upthascap. Near by was a hut, built of the planks of the
Arbor Vitas (Thuja), which was remarkably well made; and the
boards used in its structure, although split, had all the appearance of
being sawn : many of them were three feet wide, and about fifteen
feet long. The hut was perfectly water-tight. Its only inhabitants
were two miserable old Indians and two boys, who were waiting here
for the arrival of those employed in the salmon-fishery. The rivers
were beginning to swell to an unusual size, owing to the melting of the
snows in the mountains ; and in order to cross the streams, it became
necessary to cut down large trees, over which the packs were carried,
while the horses swam over. These were not the only difficulties they
had to encounter : the path was to be cut for miles through thickets
of brushwood and fallen timber; steep precipices were to be ascended,
with slippery sides and entangled with roots of every variety of shape
and size, in which the horses' legs would become entangled, and before
reaching the top be precipitated, loads and all, to the bottom. The
horses would at times become jammed with their packs between trees,
and were not to be disengaged without great toil, trouble, and damage
to their burdens. In some cases, after succeeding in getting nearly
to the top of a hill thirty or forty feet high, they would become
exhausted and fall over backwards, making two or three somersets,
until they reached the bottom, when their loads were again to be
arranged.

On the 22d, their route lay along the banks of the Upthascap, which
is a much wider stream than the Puyallup. A short distance up, they
came to a fish-weir, constructed as the one heretofore described, on
the Chickeeles, though much smaller.

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN. 421

This part of the country abounds with arbor-vitas trees, some of
which were found to be thirty feet in circumference at the height of
four feet from the ground, and upwards of one hundred feet high.
Notwithstanding the many difficulties encountered, they this day made
about twelve miles.

On the morning of the 23d, just as they were about to leave their
camp, their men brought in a deer, which was soon skinned and packed
away on the horses. This was the first large game they had obtained,
having previously got only a few grouse.

They had now reached the Smalocho, which runs to the westward,
and is sixty-five feet wide : its depth was found to be four and a half
feet, which, as it was also rapid, was too great for the horses to ford
and carry their loads. The Indians now became serviceable to them.
Lieutenant Johnson had engaged several that were met on their way,
and they now amounted to thirteen, who appeared for a time lively
and contented. This, however, was but a forerunner of discontent,
and a refusal to go any farther; but with coaxing and threatening they
were induced to proceed.

The road or way, after passing the river, was over a succession of
deep valleys and hills, so steep that it was difficult for a horse to get
up and over them with a load, and the fall of a horse became a com-
mon occurrence. They were all, however, recovered without injury,
although one of them fell upwards of one hundred feet; yet in con-
sequence of his fall having been repeatedly broken by the shrubs and
trees, he reached the bottom without injury to himself, but with the
loss of his load, consisting of their camp utensils, &c., which were
swept off by the rapid current of the river.

The route lay, for several days, through forests of spruce, and some
of the trees that had fallen measured two hundred and sixty-five feet
in length. One of these, at the height of ten feet from the roots, mea-
sured thirty-five feet in circumference ; and at the end which had been
broken off in its fall, it was found to be eighteen inches in diameter,
which would make the tree little short of three hundred feet when it
was growing. The stems of all these trees were clear of branches to
the height of one hundred and fifty feet from the ground, and perfectly
straight. In many cases it was impossible to see over the fallen trees,
even when on horseback, and on these, seedlings were growing luxu-
riantly, forcing their roots through the bark and over the body of the
trunk till they reached the ground. Many spruces were seen which
had grown in this way ; and these, though of considerable size, still
retained the form of an arch, showing where the old tree had lain, and
under which they occasionally rode. As may be supposed, they could

2L

4-32 PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

not advance very rapidly over such ground, and Lieutenant Johnson
remarks, that although he was frequently desirous of shortening the
road, by taking what seemed a more direct course, he invariably found
himself obliged to return to the Indian trail.

Daylight of the 24th brought with it its troubles : it was found that
the horses had strayed, — a disaster that the Indians took quite coolly,
hoping it would be the cause of their return. After a diligent search,
the horses were found in places where they had sought better food,
although it was scanty enough even there.

During the day, the route led along the Smalocho, which runs
nearly east and west; and they only left its banks when they were
obliged to do so by various impassable barriers. This part of the
country is composed of conical hills, which are all thickly clothed
with pine trees of gigantic dimensions. They made nine miles this
day, without accident ; but when they encamped, they had no food for
the horses except fern. The animals, in consequence, seemed much
overcome, as did also the Indians, who had travelled the whole day
with heavy loads. Lieutenant Johnson, by way of diverting the fa-
tigue of the latter, got up a shooting-match for a knife, the excitement
of which had the desired effect.

The trees hereabout were chiefly the cotton-wood, maple, spruce,
pine, and elder, and some undergrowth of raspberry, the young shoots
of which the natives eat with great relish.

On the 25th, they set out at an early hour, and found the travelling
less rough, so that they reached the foot of La Tote before noon,
having accomplished eleven miles. Lieutenant Johnson with the
sergeant ascended La Tete, obtained the bearings, from its summit,
of all the objects around, and made its height by barometer, two
thousand seven hundred and ninety-eight feet: its latitude was fixed
at 47° 08' 54" N. This mountain was entirely destitute of wood; but,
having been burnt over, was found strewn with huge charred trunks,
and the whole ground covered with ashes. The inclination of its sides
was about fifty degrees.

The country around seemed one continued series of hills, and like
La Tete had suffered from the fire. According to the natives, although
the wood on the mountains was destroyed many years since, yet it
was still observed to be on fire, in some places, about two years ago.
Most of the tops of the distant peaks had snow on them. To the east
was seen the appearance of two valleys, through which the two
branches of the Smalocho flow.

On descending from La Tete, the river was to be crossed : this was
found too deep to be forded, and it consequently became necessary to

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN. 423

form a bridge to transport the baggage, by cutting down trees. The
current was found to run 6-2 miles per hour. They had been in hopes
of reaching the Little Prairie before night, but in consequence of this
delay, were forced to encamp before arriving there.

The Indians complained much of the want of food: many of the
horses also were exhausted for the same cause, and exhibited their
scanty nourishment in their emaciated appearance.

On the 26th, they reached the Little Prairie at an early hour, where,
after consultation, it was determined to wait a day to recruit the horses,
as this was the only place they could obtain food. It was also desira-
ble to ascertain the practicability of passing the mountain with the
horses, and at the same time to carry forward some of the loads, that
the horses might have as little as possible to transport. Mr. Waldron
and Pierre Charles were therefore sent forward with the Indians,
having loads of fifty pounds each, to ascend the mountain, while Lieu-
tenant Johnson remained with the camp to get observations. Dr.
Pickering and Mr. Brackenridge accompanied the party of Mr. Wal-
dron to the snow-line. The prairie on which they had encamped was
about two and a half acres in extent, and another of the same size
was found half a mile farther east.

The 27th was employed by Lieutenant Johnson in determining the
positions of this prairie, which proved to be in latitude 47° 05' 54" N.,
and longitude 120° 13' W. The variation was 19° 39' easterly. At
sunset, messengers arrived from Mr. Waldron, who had reached the
summit at noon, and was to proceed down to the snow-line to encamp.
The snow was found to be about ten feet deep, and the party crossing
sank about ankle-deep, for which reason opinions varied as to the
possibility of getting the horses over ; but it was determined to make
the trial. Lieutenant Johnson, therefore, set out, leaving a supply of
food with an old Indian and a horse, both of whom were worn out,
and unable to proceed.

By eleven o'clock, they were met by Pierre Charles and the Indians,
who gave some slight hopes of accomplishing the task of getting all
over. Lieutenant Johnson determined to take only the strongest
horses to the edge of the snow. At half-past 5 p. M., they reached
the best practicable encampment, being a mile beyond the place where
Mr. Waldron had encamped two days before. The snow having
melted so rapidly, Lieutenant Johnson, taking all things into conside-
ration, determined, notwithstanding the forebodings of failure held out
by the party that had gone before, to make the attempt. It now be-
came necessary to push on with as much haste as possible, on account
of the state of their provisions ; for what with the loss sustained in

424 PUGETSOUNDANDOKONAGAN.

fording the river, and in consumption, they were obliged to adopt an
allowance.

On the 29th, they departed, at early dawn, in order to take advan-
tage of the firmness of the snow, occasioned by the last night's frost.
They ascended rapidly, and passed over the worst of the way, the
horses sinking no deeper than their fetlocks. They first passed over a
narrow ridge, and then a succession of small cones, until they reached
the summit.

Mount Rainier, from the top, bore south-southwest, apparently not
more than ten miles distant. A profile of the mountain indicates that

it has a terminal crater, as well
as some on its flanks. The baro-
meter stood at 24-950 in. : five
thousand and ninety-two feet.
- There was another, to the north-
MOUNT RAINIER. northeast, covered with snow,

and one to the west appeared about two hundred feet higher than the
place where the observations were taken. This latter had suffered
from fire in the same way as La Tete, and showed only a few patches
of snow. To the eastward, a range of inferior height, running north
and south, was in view, without snow.

On the western ascent of this mountain, the pines were scrubby; but
at the summit, which was a plain, about a mile in length by half a
mile wide, they were straight and towering, about eighty feet in height,
without any limbs or foliage, except at the top. The distance travelled
•over the top was about five miles. On descending the east skle, the
snow was much deeper and softer, but the horses managed to get along
well, and without accident.

Lieutenant Johnson, in following the party, missed the trail, and lost
his way for three or four hours. On discovering the camp of those
who had gone before, on the opposite side of a stream, he attempted to
cross it on a log, in doing which his foot slipped, and he was precipi-
tated into the water. Although his first thought was to save the chro-
nometer from accident, it was too late, for the watch had stopped ; it
was not, however, so far injured as not to be set a-going, and it con-
tinued to go during the remainder of the journey : the only use I have
been able to make of his subsequent observations, was to obtain the
relative meridian distances between the points visited, without the
absolute longitude. It is needless to say, that I placed little or no
dependence on them, in constructing the map.

Although the horses had, with one or two exceptions, reached the
eastern side of the mountain, yet they, together with the Indians, were

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN. 425

very much exhausted. The time had now come when the Indians,
according to agreement, were to be paid off, and they had done much
more than they agreed to do, having crossed the mountain twice.

Finding the necessity of retaining all the blankets that had been
brought with them, in order to buy horses, Lieutenant Johnson pro-
posed to the Indians to receive an order on Nisqually, in lieu of the
immediate delivery of the blankets. This they readily assented to, and
also willingly gave up those that had already been paid them, on
receiving a similar order, — thus showing a spirit of accommodation
highly praiseworthy. Only two of them returned to Nisqually, to whom
were entrusted the botanical specimens, and the care of the horses left
upon the road.

The banks of the small streams on the eastern side of the mountain
were bordered with the greatest variety of trees and shrubs, consisting
of poplars, buckthorn fifty feet high, dogwood thirty to forty feet high,
several species of willow, alder, two species of maple, and occasionally
a yew. The undergrowth was composed of Hazel, Vaccinium, Gaul-
theria, and a prickly species of Aralia. The herbaceous shrubs were
Goodyera, Neottia, Viola, Claytonia, Corallorrhiza. The latter, how-
ever, were not in flower.

The party on foot, after leaving the Little Prairie about half a mile,
crossed the northern branch of the Smalocho, which was found much
swollen and very rapid. Two trees were cut down to form a bridge.
After this, the walking through the forest became smooth and firm, and
they passed on at a rapid pace. The Indians, although loaded with
ninety pounds of baggage, kept up with the rest. At nightfall they
encamped at the margin of the snow.

On lighting their fires, they accidentally set fire to the moss-covered
trees, and in a few moments all around them was a blazing mass of
flame, which compelled them to change their quarters farther to wind-
ward. They had made eighteen miles. But few plants were found,
the season being too early for collecting at so high an elevation. The
ground was covered with spruce-twigs, which had apparently been
broken off by the weight of the snow. The summit was passed through
an open space about twenty acres in extent. This glade was surrounded
with a dense forest of spruce trees. There was no danger in walking
except near the young trees, which had been bent down by the snow,
but on passing these they often broke through, and experienced much
difficulty in extricating themselves, particularly the poor Indians, with
their heavy burdens. The breadth of snow passed over was about
eight miles. At three o'clock they reached the Spipen river, where

VOL. IV. 2L2 54

426 PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

they encamped : this camp was found to be two thousand five hundred
and forty-one feet above the level of the sea. The vegetation appeared
to our botanical gentlemen farther advanced on the east side than on
the west, at the same height; the Pulmonarias and several small
annuals were more forward. There were only a few pine trees, and
those small, seen on the west side of the ridge ; and on the east side,
there was a species of larch, the hackmatack of the country. While
they remained at this camp, they found a Pyrola, and some new ferns.

The country about the Spipen is mountainous and woody, with a
narrow strip of meadow-land along its banks. Mr. Waldron had, on
arriving at the camp, sent Lachemere, one of the Indians, down the
river to an Indian chief, in order to procure horses. Those that
remained after providing for the baggage, were consequently assigned
each to two or three individuals to ride and tye on their route.

On the 30th, they proceeded down the Spipen, making a journey of
eighteen miles, and passed another branch of the river, the junction of
which augmented its size very considerably. Its banks, too, became
perpendicular and rocky, with a current flowing between them at the
rate of six or seven miles an hour. After the junction, the stream was
about one hundred feet broad, and its course was east-southeast.

The vegetation on the east side of the mountains was decidedly
more advanced than that to the west, and several very interesting
species of plants were met with by the botanists, on the banks of the
streams : among them were Preonia brownii, Cypripedium oregonium,
Pentstemon, Ipomopsis elegans, and several Compositae, and a very
handsome flowering shrub, Purshia tridentata.

On the 31st, they continued their route over a rough country, in
some places almost impassable for a horse from its steepness, and in
others so marshy as to require much caution to prevent being mired.

During the morning, they met two Indians, who informed them that
the chief of the Yakima tribe was a short distance in advance, waiting
to meet them, and that he had several horses. At noon they reached
a small prairie on the banks of the river, where old Tidias, the chief,
was seen seated in state to receive Lieutenant Johnson ; but this
ceremony was unavoidably broken in upon by the necessity of getting
the meridian observations. The chief, however, advanced towards
him with every mark of friendship, giving the party a hearty wel-
come. In person he was tall, straight, and thin, a little bald, wit'.j
long black hair hanging down his back, carefully tied with a worsted
rag. He was grave, but dignified and graceful. When they had been
seated, and after smoking a couple of pipes in silence, he intimated

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN. . 427

that he was ready for a talk, which then followed, relative to the
rivers and face of the country ; but little information was obtained
that could be depended upon.

This tribe subsist chiefly upon salmon and the cammass-root : game
is very scarce, and the beaver have all disappeared. The cammass-
root is pounded and made into a sort of cake, which is not unpleasant,
having a sweetish taste, but it is very dry, although some of the party
took a fancy to it.

Tidias had with him an old man almost blind, who claimed much
respect, and two young men, whose dress of buckskin, profusely orna-
mented with beads, was much admired by the party. During the talk,
the old chief expressed himself delighted to see the white men, and
spoke of his own importance, his immense territory, &c., in a style of
boasting, to which the Indians are very much addicted. He said that
he was desirous of affording all the accommodation he could to the
party. But although he had eight or ten fine horses with him, he
would not agree to part with them, as they were all his favourites.
He was presented with a variety of articles, in return for which he
gave the party a few dried salmon.

Towards evening, old Tidias took leave of them, saying that it was
not proper for an Indian to encamp in the same place with a white
man, and with a promise that he would have horses by ten o'clock the
next day ; but he had a game to play by procrastinating, in which he
thoroughly succeeded.

In the morning they reached the Indian camp below, but no horses
had arrived. It was far, they said, to Tidias's house ; a man could
not go thither and return in the same day ; no horses or salmon could
be brought; no one could be permitted to go. Lieutenant Johnson
was then told that the road he had to follow was a " hungry" road.
At last the Indian was induced by high offers to exchange good horses
for a great number of bad ones, and finally consented to part with two
more. On quitting him they became thoroughly aware that all the
difficulties were owing, not to any indisposition to sell, but were
created for the purpose of inducing high prices to be given.

The party now branched off at right angles to their former route,
Lieutenant Johnson heartily sick and tired of his friend Tidias and his
people. Two more of the Indians here left them. The country they
entered, after passing a ridge about six hundred feet high, was quite
of a different aspect, forming long sloping hills, covered with a scanty
growth of pines. Many dry beds of rivulets were passed, and the
soil of the hills produced nothing but a long thin grass. There are,

428 PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

however, some small valleys where the growth of grass is luxuriant,
the pines are larger, and the scenery assumed a park-like appearance.

From the summit of one of the hills, a sketch of Mount Rainier,
and of the intervening range, was obtained.

MOUNT RAINIER.

On the top of the ridge they fell in with a number of Spipen
Indians, who were engaged in digging the cammass and other roots.
The latter were those of an umbelliferous plant, oblong, tuberous, and
in taste resembling a parsnep. The process used to prepare them for
bread, is to bake them in a well-heated oven of stones ; when they are
taken out they are dried, and then pounded between two stones till the
mass becomes as fine as corn meal, when it is kneaded into cakes and
dried in the sun. These roots are the principal vegetable food of the
Indians throughout Middle Oregon. The women are frequently seen,
to the number of twenty or thirty, with baskets suspended from the
neck, and a pointed stick in their hand, digging these roots, and so
intently engaged in the search for them, as to pay no attention what-
ever to a passer-by. When these roots are properly dried, they are
stored away for the winter's consumption. This day they made only
fifteen miles, in a northern direction.

On the 2d of June, they reached the Yakima, after having crossed a
small stream. The Yakima was too deep for the horses to ford with
their packs, and they now for the first time used their balsas of India-
rubber cloth, which were found to answer the purpose of floating the
loads across the stream.

This river is one hundred and fifty feet wide, and pursues an east-
southeast course, with a velocity of more than four miles an hour.
At this place were found twenty migrating Indians, who have their
permanent residence on the banks lower down.

The chief, Kamaiyah, was the son-in-law of old Tidias, and one of
the most handsome and perfectly-formed Indians they had met with.
He was found to be gruff and surly in his manners, which was
thought to be owing to his wish to appear dignified. These Indian c
were living in temporary huts, consisting of mats spread on poles.
Among them was seen quite a pretty girl, dressed in a shirt and
trousers, with moccasins of skin verv much ornamented with fringe

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN. 429

and beads. They had a number of fine horses, but could not be
induced to part with any of them.

Lieutenant Johnson had now succeeded in purchasing venison and
salmon, and the party again had full allowance.

On the 3d, they continued their route to the northward, over gra-
dually rising ground, and Lieutenant Johnson having succeeded in
purchasing three more horses, only three of the party were now
without them, so that the riding and tye system was not quite so often
resorted to as before. On this plain was seen a number of curlews,
some grouse, and a large species of hare. They encamped again
near the snow, and found their altitude greater than any yet reached,
the barometer standing at 24-750 in. : five thousand two hundred and
three feet. They had again reached the spruces and lost the pine,
which was only found on the hill-sides and plains.

At 4 A. M. on the morning of the 4th of June, the thermometer stood
at 28°. They on that day continued their route up the mountain and
across its summit, which was here and there covered with patches of
snow. I regret to record another accident to the instruments. The
sergeant, to whom the barometer was intrusted by Lieutenant Johnson,
in putting up the instrument this morning, carelessly broke it; and
thus ended the barometrical experiments in the most interesting portion
of the route.

It is difficult to account for the scarcity of snow on a much higher
elevation than they had before reached, and under circumstances
which would appear to have warranted a contrary expectation. Dr.
Pickering was induced to believe that this change in the climate is
owing to the open nature of the surrounding country ; its being devoid
of dense forests, with but a few scattered trees and no under-brush ;
and the vicinity to elevated plains, and the ridge being of a less broken
character.

The early part of the day was cold, with showers of sleet. On the
crest of the mountain they passed over swampy ground, with but a
few patches of spruces : after passing which, they began to descend
very regularly towards the Columbia, which they reached early in the
afternoon, about three miles below the Pischous river. The Columbia
at this place is a rapid stream, but the scenery differs entirely from
that of other rivers : its banks are altogether devoid of any fertile
alluvial flats ; destitute even of scattered trees ; there is no freshness
in the little vegetation on its borders ; the sterile sands in fact reach to
its very brink, and it is scarcely to be believed until its banks are
reached that a mighty river is rolling its waters past these arid wastes.
The river, in this section of the country, is generally confined within

430 PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

a ravine of from one thousand to fifteen hundred feet below the gene-
ral level of the country. It was much swollen when our party reached
it; but it is at no time fordable here. Its width, by measurement made
a few miles above, was six hundred yards.

A mile before reaching the banks of the Columbia, there were many
stupendous castellated rocks, of a yellow colour, which proved to be a
soft sandstone. The only shrub was the wormwood.

They passed along the banks of the Columbia to the junction of the
Pischous. The course of the latter is to the southeast : it takes its
rise in a distant range of snowy mountains, which are seen in a north-
west direction. Half a mile above its mouth it is two hundred and
fifty yards wide, but the water of the river, in consequence of the state
of the Columbia, was backed up ; and although it was said by the
Indians not to have reached its full height, yet it appeared to have
risen to the high-water marks.

They encamped on the southwest side of the river, in a beautiful
patch of meadow-land, of about one hundred acres in extent, which
the Indians had enclosed in small squares by turf walls ; and in them
they cultivated the potato in a very systematic manner. On the
meadows were found numbers of grouse and curlews, of which they
killed many. There were also many wild currants, just ripening.
The Pischous was called here, by some of the Indians, the Wainape.
I have, however, retained the former name on the map as being that
by which it is more commonly known.

From the point of junction, the Columbia can be traced for the dis-
tance of thirty-five miles. At the opposite shore of the river, the
banks have a more uniform appearance, and would give the idea that
on reaching their summit of one thousand five hundred feet, an exten-
sive table-land would be seen; but this is not the case, for mountainous
land rises at some distance beyond, but it has no snow upon it, and is
destitute of trees. Below, at a distance of ten or twelve miles, is seen
a high-peaked isolated rock, which Lieutenant Johnson conjectured to
be Buckland Rock ; and beyond it, the river seems to take a turn to
the southward. Between the forks of the rivers, the hills are very
rugged, steep, and rocky.

On the 5th of June, by the timely arrival of an Indian in a canoe,
they were enabled to cross the Pischous, and to find out the route they
ought to pursue towards Okonagan. With this aid, and without much
difficulty, the horses and all the baggage were safely landed on i\v,
opposite side, after which their course continued along the Columbia
river. The path was a very rough one for the horses to travel, being
frequently over jagged rocks, which approach within a few feet

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN. 431

of the water's edge, and in places so near as to leave but a ledge
for the horses to pass on, rendering it both laborious and dangerous.
These rocks are of granite, with veins of white marble, one of which
was several feet in width. Much of the rock resembles slate, capable
of being split into thin slabs, and of a dark gray colour. They met
with, during this day, many interesting plants, among which were a
cupressus tree and a cruciferous plant on the rocks, which an Indian
woman was gathering for food. To the taste they were extremely
bitter. Large quantities of wild gooseberries were also to be found
growing among the rocks, but proved quite insipid.

They encamped on a small sand-flat on the Columbia, having made
about eleven miles.

On the 6th, after travelling seven miles, they reached the banks of a
small stream, called by the Indians Entiyatecoom, but known by the
Canadian voyageurs as Point de Bois. Its course is nearly east and
west ; it is about one hundred feet wide, and was found at its mouth
too deep to ford. They, therefore, continued up the stream for about
a mile and a half, in hopes of finding a suitable place. While thus
ascending the stream, they were accosted by several Indians, who
motioned to them to return to the mouth of the river, whither a canoe
was now brought to transport their baggage, and an Indian was
despatched to a fishing station, who returned with salmon ready
cooked.

The chief of the tribe of Okonagan Indians became much dissatis-
fied at the mode in which payment was offered him, and which he
refused to accept, and went unrewarded for his important services, to
the regret of many of the party. They again proceeded on their
journey, and came, in the course of a mile, to the camp of the natives
from whom the salmon had been sent them. They found them em-
ployed in salmon-fishing. Including men, women, and children, they
were twenty in number. This is their permanent residence, but they
were then living in the usual summer huts, of mats, and near by were
the winter habitations, which consisted of two mounds, each of which
might contain about ten. Both of these were open towards the river,
the door being a round aperture, eighteen inches in diameter. These
Indians seem to have little to protect them from the cold of winter,
except the grass and their clothing, and do not appear to have any
fire in their winter habitation. The mystery about the cooked salmon
was now solved, for it appeared that, as soon as the fish are taken,
they are at once roasted, and then exposed to the sun to dry on a shed,
after which the meat is pounded and made into balls, which are stored

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

for winter food. They keep a large quantity of it on hand, and it
constitutes almost their only food. Their salmon-fishery was on the
opposite side of the river. Some of the party bought a number of
salmon, the smallest of which weighed nearly forty pounds. These
Indians had many good horses, which they had no inclination to sell.

About two miles above the Indian village, they unexpectedly found
that they were obliged to cross the Columbia. The balsas were,
therefore, put in requisition, and a raft was constructed, on which,
with the assistance of a canoe obtained from the Indians, they suc-
ceeded in getting all their baggage safely deposited on the other side,
whither the horses were also brought.

In lighting their fires they ignited the grass on the prairie, and pro-
duced quite a conflagration, which for a time threatened their camp,
but they succeeded in extinguishing it. Lieutenant Johnson now en-
gaged an Indian to show them the road to Okonagan, for which they
intended to set out at an early hour.

Their course now lay along the Columbia, and, towards the latter
part of the day, on the high prairie-land, which was somewhat sandy,
and seemed likely to be unprofitable for any purpose, except sheep-
pasture. The guides were quite averse to entering on the high prairie,
alleging that it was destitute of water.

Lieutenant Johnson, however, determined to pass on, after filling the
water-bags. Ascending two thousand feet, they reached the high plain,
where all were much delighted with the magnificent and extensive
view. The whole sweep of the prairie burst upon them, uninterrupted
by any shrub, but covered by a long grass, clothing the gentle inclina-
tions as well as the hollows. The view was desolate, nothing appear-
ing to relieve the eye, but the very distant dark-blue mountains to the
northward and eastward, which pointed out the course of the Columbia,
or the snow-capped tops of Mount Rainier and the ranges they had
left.

Over this prairie they had no track to guide them, but proceeded
on a course north-by-east, leaving a remarkable peak, to which the
name of Mount St. Pierre was given, to the east of their route. After
travelling three miles, they encamped, and were enabled to cook their
dinner with a hawk's nest and a few bushes growing out of a rock.
The Indians indulged themselves in a feast on the squab hawks : these
birds, from the quantities of down on their legs, have a droll appear-
ance.

This plain — for so it must be called — was found tolerably level, and,
although it is covered with grass, yet there is but a slight tint of green

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN. 433

over the landscape. This grass is the natural hay before spoken of,
which seems to point out this for a grazing country, though there is a
large district destitute of water.

On the 8th, at one o'clock, the party reached the banks of the Co-
lumbia, opposite to Okonagan, when a canoe was employed to take
them over. This post was in charge of a Canadian by the name of
Le Pratt ; but the whole is now going into rapid decay, as it is only
retained as an entrepot for the deposit of supplies, &c., in connexion
with the posts in New Caledonia, as the northern part of this country
is called by the Hudson Bay Company. Okonagan lies directly on the
route thither, and here they change from land to water transportation.
Were it not for the convenience it affords, in this respect, it would not
be retained. It is inhabited by two Canadian white men and numerous
half-breed women and children, the men having gone down the river
with Mr. Ogden. It has, as usual at the posts, an Indian encampment
on the outside, but there is no Indian settlement within eight miles,
where there is a salmon-fishery. Few skins are obtained here, and
the extreme scarcity of game and fur animals is remarkable throughout
all this part of Middle Oregon. This is somewhat difficult to account
for, as we are well satisfied that there is abundance of food, and that
all kinds of cattle would thrive exceedingly in this section, where grass
is so abundant.

Okonagan and the old Spokane House, on the river of the same name,
(now abandoned,) were the first posts established in this country by
the American Company, some twenty-nine years prior to our visit.
Falling into the possession of the Northwest Company, they were, on
-he union of that Company with the Hudson Bay Company, passed
over to the latter. Okonagan is situated on a poor, flat, sandy neck,
about two miles above the junction of the river of that name with the
Columbia. It is a square, picketed in the same manner as those
already described, but destitute of bastions, and removed sixty yards
from the Columbia. Within the pickets there is a large house for the
reception of the Company's officers, consisting of several apartments,
and from each end of it two rows of low mud huts run towards the
entrance : these serve as offices and dwellings for the trappers and
their families. In the centre there is an open space.

French is the language spoken here, as it is at all the other posts of
the Company.

Half a mile above the mouth of the Okonagan, it was found to 'be
three hundred feet wide: it is a dull, turbid stream. The Columbia
at this place was found to be sixteen hundred feet wide.

Besides the care of the barges for navigating the river, and the
VOL. iv. 2M 55

434 PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

horses for the land journey to the northern posts, they collect here
what skins they can. The country aflbrds about eighty beaver-skins
during the year, the price for each of which is usually twenty charges
of powder and ball. Some bear, marten, and other skins, are also
obtained, for which the prices vary ; and it appears to be the practice
of the Company to buy all the skins that are brought in, in order to
encourage the Indians to procure them. At Nisqually, Mr. Anderson
informed me that many were bought that were afterwards destroyed,
as they were not worth transportation.

At this post they have some goats, and thirty-five head of very fine
cattle, which produce abundance of milk and butter. Neither of these
are yet permitted to be slaughtered, and the only animal food used, is
a species of rat, called " siffleurs," which burrows among the stones
on the hill-sides in great numbers. These the Indians catch and sell
for a leaden ball : they were found very fat, and considered good food
by our party. The soil is too poor for farming operations, and only a
few potatoes are grown. There is generally a supply of provisions on
hand here for the parties that are passing to and fro.

There is also another post, called Fort Thompson, on the Kamloops
Lake, which is in charge of an Indian, and is of less importance than
Okonagan.

On the morning of the 9th, Mr. Maxwell, one of the Company's
officers, arrived from Colville, with forty horses laden with provisions,
for Mr. Ogden's brigade. He was not a little surprised to find strangers
in the country, and in possession of his quarters at the post. He was
obliging enough to offer any assistance that he could render, and, in con-
junction with Le Pratt, endeavoured to supply all the wants of the party.

The Okonagan tribe of Indians are supposed to number about two
hundred, and are represented as quiet and peaceably disposed. Their
food consists principally of salmon and a small fish which they call
carp ; but they are not provident enough to lay up a sufficient supply
for their winter's stock, and are obliged, for the remainder of the year,
to make use of roots, and a bread which is made from the moss that
grows on the trees. This moss is collected in large quantities, cleaned,
and then placed in a hole made in the ground, along with heated stones,
which are all covered up closely with earth. In this hole the moss re-
mains for twenty-four hours. When the pit is opened, it is found to
have become soft. After this process, it is washed and moulded into
cakes, which are set out to dry. The seed of the Balsamoriza (Oreg-jn
sunflower), is also used here, being pounded into a kind of meal, which
they call mielito. To this is added the silllctirs ; but with all these
articles of food, much suffering is experienced towards the spring.

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN. 435

The Company's servants at the northern posts suffer almost as much
at times, although they are provided and attended to by the officers :
they live mostly upon salmon. The difficulty of getting provisions to
the posts in the interior is very great ; all that is consumed at the
north is carried twenty-four days' journey on pack-horses, and eighteen
in barges, before it arrives at its destination ; and the amount trans-
ported is not more than enough to supply the officers, whose allow-
ance is very limited. The servants of the Company receive an
increased pay as some recompense for their privations.

The chief amusement of the Okonagan tribes of Indians in the winter,
and during the heat of the day in summer, when they are prevented
from taking salmon, is a game called by the voyageurs "jeu de main,"
equivalent to our odd-and-even.

The latitude, as given by Lieutenant Johnson's observations, place
Fort Okonagan in 48° 12' N.

In the vicinity are found many wild fruits, consisting of gooseberries,
June-berries, and currants, which, at this time, 9th of June, were
beginning to be ripe.

On the 10th, at noon, they crossed the Columbia to rejoin their
horses, where they had been left to graze, during the two days they
had remained at the fort.

Lieutenant Johnson rode on some distance before the party, who
lost sight of him in rounding a hill. His horse some time afterwards
came galloping towards them, without any saddle ; but thinking that he
had found a good camping-place, they continued on until sunset, when
they encamped at a small stream. Supper was prepared and eaten,
but Mr. Johnson did not appear. Becoming uneasy, the sergeant and
Pierre Charles were sent in search of him, and signal-guns were fired
at short intervals till lip. M., when they returned without any news
of him. Early the next morning, a party again left the camp in search
of him, and at nine o'clock he was discovered fast asleep, where he had
been since the previous afternoon.

The Columbia, in the neighbourhood of Okonagan is very winding
in its course, and is interrupted by dalles about five miles above.

On the llth, their route layover the grassy prairie before spoken
of, in which they saw a few pools of water. In a salt marsh were
found some singular plants, and the crusted salt on the surface had
very much the appearance of hoar-frost. In other respects, the route
was uninteresting. Mount St. Pierre, before noticed, was seen, with its
dome-like summit, and its height was estimated at. eighteen hundred
feet. The distance made this day was fourteen miles, and they
encamped in an open plain, within three miles of the Grande Coulee.

436 PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

On the 12th, they reached the Grande Coulee. The common suppo-
sition relative to this remarkable geological phenomenon is, that it has
once been the bed of the Columbia, and this is what would strike every
one at its first view; but, on consideration, it is seen that it is much too
wide, and that its entrance is nearly choked up by the granite hills,
that do not leave sufficient space for the river to flow through. The
walls of the Coulee consist of basaltic cliffs, similar to those of the
Palisades of the Hudson, seven hundred and ninety-eight feet high ; and
where it was crossed by the party, it was three miles wide ; but, a few
miles farther to the south, it narrowed to two miles. Its direction was
nearly north and south, for a distance of at least fifteen miles. In
places, the cliffs were broken, and appeared as though tributary valleys
had been formed, in like manner, with perpendicular walls, though but
of short extent. In the northern portion of it were several granite
knolls, resembling islands, capped with basalt, and called Isles des
Pierres. The bottom of the Coulee is a plain, having some irregu-
larities, but in places, for two miles together, to appearance it was
perfectly level. There are in it three lakes : one on the top of the west
border, another after descending, and a third between two of the granite
islands. The last of these was the largest, being about a mile long,
but is not more than three hundred feet broad : these lakes have no
visible outlets. Although the soil abounded in the same saline efflore-
scence that had been remarked on the high prairie, yet the lakes were
found to be fresh, and wild ducks were seen in great numbers. In other
spots, the earth was damp and overgrown with a rank grass, of the
same kind as that growing on the prairie. Next to this, the wormwood
predominated.

In the level places the earth was much cracked : incrustations were
abundant, which, sparkling brilliantly in the sun, gave the plain some-
what the appearance of being covered with water. Specimens of
these were procured, the analysis of which will be found in the
Geological Report.

The granite islands, above spoken of, were found to be seven hundred
and fourteen feet high. Mr. Johnson named the southern one the
Ram's Head. Dr. Pickering, who visited the north part, found no
regularity of structure. All were satisfied, after leaving the Coulee,
that it had been the seat of a lake, in the northern branch of which,
some convulsion had caused a breach, through which it had discharged
itself into the Columbia. If the Columbia had ever flowed through this
channel, it must have worn the rocks, but they exhibit no signs of any
such abrasion ; and yet it seems remarkable, that the Coulee had
extended from one* point of the river to another, and, with the excep-

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN. 437

tion of its breadth, forming very much the same kind of trench as the
Columbia would leave, if it forsook its present channel.

From the observations subsequently made at the lower end of the
Grande Coulee, there is, however, reason to believe that it was at
one period the bed of the Columbia. The fact of there being large
boulders of granite at its lower or south end, while there is no rock
of similar kind except at its north end, would warrant the conclusion
that they had been brought from the upper part of it. There were
a great number of stones, having the appearance of being water-worn,
lying in its bed, at the south end, as if they had been brought down by
the current of a rapid stream.

The Coulee is too much impregnated with saline matter to permit
crops of grain to be raised on it ; but it would be admirably adapted
for the raising of cattle and sheep, there being abundance of water and
plenty of good grass here, and for twenty miles on each side of it.

They left the Grande Coulee by passing up the east cliff or bank, at
a place where it was accessible for horses, and which was much
stained with sulphur. Soon afterwards, they were overtaken by Mr.
Maxwell, from Okonagan, which place, although twenty-five miles
distant, he had left in the morning. They rode five miles farther, and
encamped at a small pool. Mr. Maxwell was kind enough to supply
them with two horses, which enabled all the party to mount again.

On the 13th, they started at an early hour, and passed over a gently-
rolling prairie country, affording excellent sheep-pasture, but entirely
destitute of trees. During this day, Lieutenant Johnson met with
another untoward accident : on getting off his horse, he neglected to
tie him, and the beast ran off to overtake the rest of the party. The
consequence was, that the artificial horizon was broken to pieces, with
many other articles contained in his saddle-bags. After travelling
fourteen miles, they reached the " Coulee des Pierres," where the
prairie terminated. This has features somewhat similar to those of
the Grande Coulee, the rocks being basaltic and precipitous. They
passed through the Coulee for two miles, when, turning at right angles,
two more miles brought them to the Columbia, whose banks were here
thickly wooded.*

On the 14th, after pursuing the same general course as the river
for four miles, over spurs of hills, they reached the Spokane, which
was three hundred feet broad at its mouth, but which, like the Colum-
bia, was at the time much swollen. Opposite to the mouth of the
Spokane, there are rocks in the Columbia, beneath the surface of the

* On the banks were found a singular species of Trillium, almost stemless.
2M2

438 PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

water, which cause rapids; but there is no perceptible fall, and the
barges shoot them without difficulty. By the assistance of some
Indians, with two canoes, they crossed the river, and breakfasted on
the opposite side. • These Indians had a lodge close by, and were in
number twelve, the greater part of whom were women and children.
Many of the latter, like others they had met with, were secured upon
boards, for which purpose, instead of cord, strips of skin were used.
These Indians reported that no salmon had been caught, on which
account they were living on a kind of carp. They had with them a
number of dogs, which are kept about their lodges : these animals have
but little to recommend them, for they are ill-shapen, and of a dingy
white colour. Of these dogs but little use is made, for they are seldom
employed in hunting, and the Indians never eat them; neither are any
of them killed, however large the litter of puppies may be. They,
however, cost nothing to keep, for they are not fed, except with the
offal of fish and birds, which accounts for the wretchedness of their
appearance.

Lieutenant Johnson and Mr. Maxwell now determined to pay a
visit to the missionaries who were stationed at Chimikaine, distant
only half a day's ride. The rest of the party proceeded along the
banks of the Columbia to Fort Colville, a post of the Hudson Bay
Company, next in importance to Vancouver. While pursuing this
object, they lost their way, and were forced to encamp for the night
on the banks of the Columbia.

On the 15th, at 4 p. M., they reached Fort Colville, after having
experienced some difficulty in riding their Indian horses up to the gate;
for the wagons, poultry, pigs, cabins, and other objects of civilization,
excited no little alarm to their animals.

In the mean time, Lieutenant Johnson, in company with Mr. Max-
well, proceeded up the Spokane, which, for the first ten miles, has a
course of east-southeast. The route passes through much fine scenery,
and on the southern side of the river the hills form terraces, clothed
with grass, and having a few pines growing upon them. The pines
yield an agreeable shade, and the banks offer numerous beautiful sites
for dwellings.

The river itself is pretty: its waters are transparent, and it is joined
in its course by many bubbling brooks. To judge from the number ot
sheds for drying salmon, it must abound with that fish. The average
width of the stream was about two hundred feet.

After leaving the Spokane, they rode in a northeast direction, over
hills covered with pines, and through valleys rich with fine meadows ;
and, after a ride of thirty-five miles from the mouth of the Spokane,

PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN. 439

reached the missionary station of Chimikaine. Here they learned that
neither of the two missionaries, Messrs. Walker and Eels, was at
home, being in attendance on a meeting at Wallawalla. Their ladies,
however, received the gentlemen with great hospitality, and though
living in rough log huts, every thing about them was scrupulously
clean; they were without any domestic help, but every thing was
attended to that could add to the comfort of their guests. They both,
with their families, seemed happy, cheerful, and contented with their
situation.

Cornelius, or Bighead, whose native name is Silimxnotylmilakabok,
is chief of the Spokane tribe — not by , birth, but having gained the
station by his shrewdness. With the title, however, he has acquired
but little real authority, although he is the most influential of the Flat-
head nation ; for his commands are often opposed with impunity by
the lowest vagabond, and he himself is sometimes personally insulted
without fear or danger of punishment. The dignity of rank, there-
fore, it will be seen, is not looked upon with much respect among
these tribes. Cornelius is about sixty years of age, tall and slender,
with a dignified carriage ; has a thin, wrinkled face, and a far-retreat-
ing forehead. He has an expression of intelligence and self-possession,
which impresses a visiter very favourably. He is represented as being
very pious; and, as far as outward appearances and loud praying go,
is certainly entitled to be so considered.

He gives an account of a singular prophecy that was made by one
of their medicine-men, some fifty years ago, before they knew any
thing of white people, or had heard of them. Cornelius, when about
ten years of age, was sleeping in a lodge with a great many people,
and was suddenly awakened by his mother, who called out to him
that the world was falling to pieces. He then heard a great noise of
thunder overhead, and all the people crying out in great terror.
Something was falling very thick, which they at first took for snow,
but on going out they found it to be dirt: it proved to be ashes, which
fell to the depth of six inches, and increased their fears, by causing
them to suppose that the end of the world was actually at hand. The
medicine-man arose, told them to stop their fear and crying, for the
world was not about to fall to pieces. " Soon," said he, " there will
come from the rising sun a different kind of men from any you have
yet seen, who will bring with them a book, and will teach you every
thing, and after that the world will fall to pieces." Although there is
not much reliance to be placed in .the truth of this story, yet it shows
the desire the Indians have to perpetuate the truth; and now that its
actual fulfilment, as they say, has come to pass, it has acquired greater

440 PUGET SOUND AND OKONAGAN.

force, and is employed by them as an argument why the tribes should
embrace the Christian religion. There is little doubt that the fall of
ashes took place, for many traces of such phenomena are to be seen in
all parts of the middle section of Oregon ;* but they had knowledge of
the whites long before the epoch designated. A proof that the white
race was then known to them, may be cited in the person of a half-
breed Canadian, who is now living at Colville, who had served under
Burgoyne, and been fifty years in this country.f Besides the appear-
ance of the Spaniards, and English under Cook, on the coast, the
existence of white men must have become known through the inter-
communication of the different nations.

Lieutenant Johnson left the mission the next afternoon for Colville,
under the guidance of the son of Cornelius, and travelled through an
extensive valley to the north, with hills on either side of from six
hundred to one thousand feet in height. This valley is crossed by
numerous streamlets and brooks, and appears to have a good and
extremely fertile soil. The largest stream passed was one near Col-
ville, on which the Hudson Bay Company have their grist-mill: this is
about fifty feet wide. Within ten miles of the fort, the house of the
Company's storekeeper was passed, and near to it is found a species of
white chalk or pigment, which is much used at the fort instead of the
common lime whitewash, from which it is scarcely distinguishable.
They reached Fort Colville late in the afternoon, and were all soon
made to forget the fatigues of the journey by the kind attentions of
Messrs. M'Donald and Maxwell, who had charge of the post.

* Within the last year, the craters on the top of Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helen's
have been in activity.

t This man is still hale and hearty, though pretty much of a reprobate. His story
seemed to be credited by the officers of the Company at Fort Colville.

INDIAN BASKETS OF OREGON.

CHAPTER XIII.

C ONTENT S.

CONTINUATION OF LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S TOUR— FORT COLVILLE— KETTLE FALLS
— QUIARLPI INDIANS— HEIGHT OF FORT COLVILLE ABOVE THE SEA— ITS CLIMATE-
ITS AGRICULTURE — SPOKANE INDIANS —THEIR MODE OF LIFE — THEIR PHYSICAL
CHARACTER — THEIR DRESS — ^EIR GOVERNMENT AND DOMESTIC RELATIONS —
AUTHORITY OF THEIR CHIEFS— THEIR PUNISHMENTS-THEIR SUPERSTITIONS— THEIR
CALENDAR— OPERATIONS OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY IN THE NORTH-OUTPOSTS
OF COLVILLE— FORT CHILCOTIN— FORT GEORGE— FORT THOMPSON— FORT ST. JAMES
—NORTHERN INDIANS— TAKALI AND ATNAHS— THEIR DRESS— THEIR HABITATIONS—
THEIR FOOD— THEIR MODE OF FISHING— THEIR FUNERAL RITES— THEIR MEDICINE-
MEN—FRASER'S RIVER — LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S PARTY LEAVES FORT COLVILLE
— MISSIONARY STATION AT CHIM1KAINE — CHARACTER OF THE NEIGHBOURING
INDIANS — THEIR TREATMENT OF FEMALES— THEIR BURIALS— THEIR MARRIAGES-
DEPARTURE FROM THE MISSION— ADVENTURE AT A CAMP OF SPOKANE INDIANS-
INDIANS TRAVELLING— KOOSKOOSKEE INDIANS— MISSION AT LAPWAI— MR. SPALDING
—HIS EXERTIONS TO CIVILIZE THE INDIANS— FREdUENT VISITS OF THE OREGON
INDIANS TO THE UNITED STATES — DEPARTURE FROM LAPWAI— INDIAN FARMS-
HALF-BREEDS— MIGRATION OF THE BUFFALO-SNAKE RIVER— SANDY DESERT— CCEUR
D'ALENE — NEZ PERCE INDIANS — INDIANS AROUND LAPWAI— SAW-MILL-DECREASE
OF WILD ANIMALS— MR. KALE'S TOUR, AND REMARKS — FALLS OF THE PELUSE —
LEGEND RELATING TO THEM — WALLA WALLA — LANGUAGES OF INDIANS— YAKIMA
RIVER— MISERABLE GROUP OF SQUAWS-SLOW COMMUNICATION OF NEWS IN ORE-
GON—NUMEROUS RATTLESNAKES-SPIPEN RIVER— TIDIAS'S CAMP— PRAIRIES— LITTLE
PRAIRIE— SMALOCHO RIVER— RETURN TO NISdUALLY— EASTERN INDIANS OF ORE-
GON— BLACKFEET— SHOSHONES-CROWS— BONACKS— YOUTAS— TRIBES ALLIED TO THE
BONACKS-MONKEY INDIANS-APACHES — PRESSURE OF THE TRIBES TOWARDS THE
SOUTH— ITS PROBABLE CAUSES.

(441)

CHAPTER XIII.

INDIAN TRIBES OF THE INTERIOR OF OREGON.

1841.

LIEUTENANT JOHNSON having reached Fort Colville with his party,
it was determined that they should spend three days there, not only
to refresh their horses, but to repair the damages which their saddles
and packs had received. For these purposes Mr. M'Donald afforded
every facility in his power, besides supplying all their wants ; and re-
ceived in payment of the articles he furnished, Lieutenant Johnson's
orders upon the ship, to be collected through the authorities at Van-
couver.

Fort Colville is situated on the east bank of the Columbia river, just
above the Kettle Falls. In this place, the river, pent up by the obstruc-
tions below, has formed a lateral channel, which nearly encircles a
level tract of land, containing about two hundred acres of rich soil.
Of this peninsula, about one hundred and thirty acres are in cultiva-
tion, and bear crops, composed chiefly of wheat, barley, and potatoes.
There are also raised small quantities of oats, Indian corn, and peas,
but garden vegetables have never succeeded well. Their failure, how-
ever, is to be attributed either to bad seeds or unskilful management ;
for the soil, which is a rich black loam, mixed with a portion of
gravel, seems capable of producing any thing.

The whole peninsula has the appearance of having been deposited
by the river, and is believed to be the only spot of that character
formed in its whole course.

There are two entrances to the fort, from one of which a road leads
to the flour-mill ; from the other there is a path extending along the
bank of the river.

Fort Colville, like all the other posts of the Hudson Bay Company,

(443)

444 INDIAN TRIBES OF

is surrounded by high pickets, with bastions, forming a formidable
defensive work against the Indians. Within the pickets all the dwell-
ings and store-houses of the Company are enclosed.

The peculiar character of the soil renders Colville superior, for the
purposes of cultivation, to any other spot on the upper waters of the
Columbia.

The Kettle Falls are one of the greatest curiosities in this part of
the country. They are formed by a tabular bed of quartz that crosses
the river, and which, being harder than the rocks either above or
below, has of course suffered less by abrasion, and thus formed a
basin that renders the name appropriate. The total descent of the
water is fifty feet, though the perpendicular fall in no place exceeds
fifteen feet, which is, however, more than sufficient to prevent the
passage of boats. At the foot of the falls^ihe breadth of the river is
two thousand three hundred and thirty feerfand the rate of the current
is four miles an hour. This breadth is somewhat narrowed by an
island, about midway of which is the first fall, which is almost entirely
unbroken. Thence the river forces its way over a rocky bed until it
reaches the main fall, where the water is thrown into every variety of
shape and form, resembling the boiling of a kettle, from which the falls
derive their name.

There is an Indian village on the banks of the great falls, inhabited
by a few families, who are called "Quiarlpi," (Basket People,) from
the circumstance of their using baskets to catch their fish, (salmon.)
The season for the salmon-fishery had not yet arrived, so that our
gentlemen did not see the manner of taking the fish ; but as described
to them, the fishing apparatus consists of a large wicker basket, sup-
ported by long poles inserted into it, and fixed in the rocks. The
lower part, which is of the basket form, is joined to a broad frame,
spreading above, against which the fish, in attempting to jump the
falls, strike, and are thrown back into the basket. This basket, during
the fishing season, is raised three times in the day, (twenty-four hours,)
and at each haul, not unfrequently, contains three hundred fine fish.
A division of these takes place at sunset each day, under the direction
of one of the chief men of the village, and to each family is allotted
the number it may be entitled to : not only the resident Indians, but all
who may be there fishing, or by accident, are equally included in the
distribution.

At the lower end of the falls are large masses of quartz rock, on
which the Indians dry their fish. Few of the salmon, even if able
to pass the lower fall, ever get by the upper one, being generally
caught between the two falls ; consequently, above this place no

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 445

salmon are taken. A short distance below the Kettle Falls, are the
Thompson Rapids, which begin at the mouth of Mill river, and extend
for some distance below that point.

Fort Colville has been found to be two thousand two hundred feet
above the sea, according to the officers of the Hudson Bay Company :
the barometers of our party having been broken, it was no longer in
their power to measure the height. This great rise takes place within
the space of five hundred miles, and is unequalled in any other river
of so great a size. The cultivation of crops is here the principal object
of attention, for the whole of the northern posts depend upon Colville
for supplies of provisions.

As to climate, this region has the reputation of being more rainy
than the country below, but seasons occur when no rain falls. In the
summer the temperature. varies very considerably in the course of
twenty-four hours, but they have kept no meteorological register, at
least none was kept at the time of the visit of our party. The tem-
perature in summer (July) rises to 100°, and falls to 12° in January
and February. The winter commences in November, and ends in
March. They frequently have flowers in February.

The time of planting the spring wheat is in April ; the winter grain
is sown in October, and succeeds best, particularly if the autumn
should be a wet one. The crops of wheat are reaped in August.
Indian corn is not a sure or good crop: it is planted in May and
gathered in September. Potatoes, beans, and some oats, with two
thousand bushels of wheat, are raised annually at this place.

Of fruits they have those of the country, such as the service-berry,
strawberry, wild cherry, and the hawthorn-berry. These ripen from
June till September. Imported fruit-trees have not as yet succeeded,
and it is thought the spring frosts are too frequent and severe for
them.

This post was established in 1825, at which time a bull and two
cows were introduced from Vancouver, and from these have sprung
one hundred and ninety-six head of fine cattle. They have likewise
thirty mares with foal, and sixty grown horses. The horses are little
used during the winter, and are usually turned out to shift for them-
selves. Care is, however, taken to keep them in places which are
much exposed to the sun, and in consequence least covered with
snow. Though represented as hardy animals, it is deemed prudent
to get them into good condition before the winter sets in, to enable
them to withstand its rigours.

The number of Indians actually resident about the falls, is one
hundred and fifty; but, during the height of the fishing season, there

2N

446 INDIAN TRIBES OF

are often nearly a thousand, consisting of all the Spokane tribe, who
are generally included under the name of the Flatheads. They
subsist for the most part on roots, fish, berries, and game. At the
opening of the spring, in March and April, or as soon as the snow
disappears, they begin to search for a root resembling the cammass,
which they call pox-pox. This lasts them till the beginning of May,
when it gives place to a bitter root, termed spatylon. This is a slender
and white root, not unlike vermicelli in appearance, and when boiled
it dissolves into a white jelly, like arrow-root. It has a bitter but not
disagreeable flavour, and is remarkable for growing in gravelly soils,
where nothing else will thrive. In June, the itzwa, or cammass,
comes in season, and is found in greater quantities than the others,
all over the country, particularly in the meadow-grounds. This root
was thought by many of us to have the taste of boiled chestnuts
Before this fails, the salmon make their appearance, and during the
summer months the Indians enjoy a very plentiful supply of food.
While the men are employed fishing, the women are busy digging
the cammass, which may be termed the principal occupations of the
two sexes. They devote a portion of their time to the collection of
berries, a work which is principally the duty of the younger part of
the tribes.

In September and October, the salmon still claim their attention:
although they are, after having deposited their roes, quite exhausted and
about to perish, yet these are dried for their winter consumption; and
unless they had recourse to these, much want would ensue, which is
always the case if the salmon should be scarce.

In October, they dig an inferior root, somewhat of the shape of a
parsnep, that is called by the Indians mesani : it has a peculiar taste,
and when baked is of a black colour. After this has disappeared,
they depend upon their stores of dried food, and game, including bears,
deer, badgers, squirrels, and wild-fowl ; which they sometimes take in
great quantities. These, however, fail them at times, and it then
generally happens that their salmon becomes exhausted also, when
they are obliged to have recourse to the moss, the preparation of which
has been before spoken of, and which can be scarcely more than suffi-
cient to sustain them until the spring again returns, and brings them
the usual round of food. Like all savages, they are improvident, and
take no thought whatever for the future. They are as prodigal in all
other things as in their domestic economy, and frequently waste articles
that might be quite useful if taken care of: their health suffers from the
same cause. Notwithstanding, in all their usual concerns they are not
devoid of sagacity, and frequent their different fishing-places and root-

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 447

grounds regularly in the season, and follow the same mode of changing
their residences, as has been heretofore noticed when speaking of the
Nisqually tribe. They use in general the simple rush mats on poles
for their tents in summer, which, with the few necessaries they have,
are readily moved from place to place, on their horses. In this way,
they pursue a regular round, and are to be found in the returning
season, very near the same spot, if not actually on it. They ought, I
think, to be deemed a wandering or nomadic race.

As far as our observations have gone, — and they have been con-
firmed by some of the intelligent officers of the Hudson Bay Company,
— the Flatheads or Spokane tribe, hold an intermediate place, in their
physical attributes, between the Indians of the coast and those of the
Rocky Mountains. In stature and proportions, they are superior to
the Lower Chinooks and Chickeeles tribe ; but inferior to the Nez
Perces. In bodily strength, they have been found much inferior to the
whites.

Their usual dress is a shirt, leggins of deer-skin, and moccasins ;
all of which are much ornamented with fringes and beads. They
wear a cap or handkerchief of some sort on their head: these, with a
blanket, form their summer clothing ; in winter, a buffalo-robe is
added.

This tribe can scarcely be said to be under any general govern-
ment; at least it is certain that none is regularly organized or acknow-
ledged. They appear now to roam in small bands, as may best suit
their temporary convenience ; but these join for mutual support against
their more powerful enemies, the Pikani or Blackfeet. In bygone
days, these small tribes contended against each other with great bitter-
ness; but by the beneficial influence exercised over them by the Hudson
Bay Company, they have been induced to live together in peace, and
intermarriages among the tribes now frequently take place ; in which
case, it is said, that the husband almost invariably joins the tribe to
which his wife belongs, under the idea that among her own family and
friends she will be better able to provide for her husband and children's
wants. This also may proceed from the fact of the influence the
women possess ; for they always assume much authority in their tribe,
and are held in high respect. They have charge of the lodge and the
stores, and their consent is necessary for the use of them ; for after
coming into their possession, these articles are considered the women's
own. Where such a state of things exists, it may readily be inferred
that the domestic ties are not very weak; and they are reputed to have
a strong affection for their children and nearest relatives. In this
respect they are unlike the Nez Perces and some of the other tribes,

448 INDIAN TRIBES OF

and have always been remarked for their attentions and kindness to
the infirm and aged, \vho are first to be provided for. One of their
customs would, however, go to prove that these good qualities cannot
exist in the degree in which some represent it. When an Indian of
this tribe dies, leaving young children who are not able to defend
themselves, his other relatives seize upon his property, and particularly
the horses, which he may have left. The only excuse they offer for
this kind of robbery and desertion is, that their fathers did so before
them.

I have before said, that there is no authority recognised in their
chief, at least so far as the power to inflict punishments for crimes or
disorders is concerned. There is, however, often a principal man,
who, from the circumstance of possessing wealth, intelligence, and
character, and sometimes from birth, united, obtains a sort of control
or chieftainship, and exercises an authority over others from his per-
sonal influence, ruling more by persuasion than by command through
sanction of law. The extent of his authority must of course depend
upon the individual's own temper : if he were a determined character,
he might no doubt exercise very considerable power.

Punishment for crime is generally inflicted by the tribe, and fre-
quently goes so far as to expel the delinquent ; but I understand that
the circumstances under which the crime was committed, have great
influence in their decisions, and that they are for the most part just.
Punishment is not by any means certain, an instance of which occur-
red in the case of Cornelius sending the very man with horses, which
had been hired of him, who had the year before, on a similar errand,
cheated him out of the stipulated pay. The chief had no redress for
this wrong, and moreover, felt obliged again to employ the same per-
son, from fear, as was supposed, of exciting the ill-will of his friends
or tribe.

As respects the belief of these Indians in a Supreme Being, they
had a very confused idea. Their ceremonies were connected with
their superstitions, and one of the most remarkable of these was called
" huwash." This results from the belief that the spirit within a person
may be separated from the body for a short time, without the person
being aware of it, or its causing death, provided it be quickly restored
to him. This accident of losing the spirit is supposed to become first
known to the medicine-man in a dream, who communicates it to the
unhappy individual, and who, in return, immediately employs him tj
recover it. During a whole night the medicine-man will be engaged
in hunting it up, passing from one lodge to another, singing and dancing.
Towards morning, they retire into a separate lodge, which is closed up

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 449

and made perfectly dark, when a small hole is made in the top,
and the spirits descend through it in the shape of small bits of bone :
these are received on a mat, a fire is made, and the spirits belonging
to a number of their friends already dead, are picked out. The
medicine-man then selects the particular spirit of each individual pre-
sent, makes all sit down, takes the bone representing his spirit, and
lays it on the head of the individual, among his hair, with many invo-
cations and grimaces, till it is supposed to descend into the heart of the
individual, and resume its former place. When all the spirits are thus
restored, the whole party make a contribution of food, and a feast
ensues, of which the remainder belongs to the medicine-man. If, per-
chance, in selecting the spirits of the dead, a living one should be taken
up, it is thought that the living person would immediately die.

Tohua is the name of another ceremony, only performed early in
the spring, for the purpose of insuring abundance of deer, fish, berries,
and roots. This consists in taking up heated stones, and plunging
them in water, out of which they draw them with their hands. It is
only performed when they have eaten nothing for a day, or are,
according to their acceptation of the term, " clean." If they have
violated this rule, they believe that the hot stones will burn their
fingers. This ceremony is said to last several days, and includes
singing and dancing, walking barefoot and nearly naked about the
village, and many other such like pranks. The medicine-men also
enact the same kind of mummeries over the sick as have been hereto-
fore described.

They have, in common with the other tribes, many traditions con-
nected with the rivers and remarkable features of their country. In
these the prairie-wolf bears always a conspicuous part. This wolf
was not an object of worship, but was supposed to be endowed with
supernatural powers, and to exert them in many ways. On one occa-
sion, it is related that the wolf was desirous of having a wife, and
visited the tribe on the Spokane for that purpose, demanding a young
woman in marriage. This request being granted, he promised that
the salmon should be abundant, and for this purpose he raised the
rapids, that they might be caught with facility. After he had been
gratified in this first instance, he made the same request of the others,
among them, of the Sketsui (Cosur d'Alene) tribe, who were the only
ones to refuse; he thereupon formed the great falls of the Spokane,
which have ever since prevented the fish from ascending to their
territory.

Among the Flatheads they have names for the months, corresponding

VOL. IV. 2N2 57

Sustiki,

Squasus,

cold,

Skiniramen,

a kind of herb,

Skaputsi,

snow gone,

Spatylus,

bitter root,

Staqumauos,

going to root-ground,

Itzwa,

cammass-root,

S;l antylku, i
Sclamp, £

hot ; gathering brooms,

Skelucs,

exhausted salmon,

Skaai,

dry moon,

Kinui-etylyutiu,

house-making,

Kumakwala,

snow moon,

450 INDIAN TRIBES OF

to the lunations, which are connected with their habits, and the climate.
They are as follows, viz. :

January.

February.

March.

April.

May.

June.

July.

August.

September.
October.
November.
December.

Of the more northern part of the Oregon Territory, through the
kindness of the officers of the Hudson Bay Company and residents, I
obtained much interesting information, little of which has, I believe,
been yet communicated to the public. I was as desirous as Mr. Hale
himself, that he should make a trip to the northern posts of the Com-
pany, after our departure from the country, but there were serious
obstacles which prevented his doing so. Besides, it would have
caused him a detention of several months, or have exposed him to an
arduous journey during the depth of winter, which he wisely deter-
mined to avoid.

The operations of the Hudson Bay Company over the northern
portion of Oregon, which is included in their maps under the name
of New Caledonia, are very extensive, and in this section they have
nine posts.

At Colville, the number of beaver-skins purchased is but small, and
the packs which accrue annually from it and its two outposts, Koutanie
and Flathead, with the purchases made by a person who travels
through the Flathead country, amount only to forty, including the bear
and wolf skins. Muskrats, martens, and foxes, are the kinds most
numerous in this neighbourhood. The outposts above-mentioned are
in charge of a Canadian trader, who receives his outfit from Colville.

Fort Chillcoaten is a clerk's station, in latitude 52° 10' N., on the
Chillcoaten branch of Fraser's river. The Chillcoatens are a small
tribe, numbering about sixty families, and only four packs of peltries
are made by them. A pack is equal to fifty-five beaver-skins of large
size : a beaver-skin costs one foot and a half of tobacco (rolled kind),
or six are bought for a blanket.

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 451

At Fort Alexandria, in latitude 52° 30' N., the point where the
navigation of Eraser's river is begun by the northern brigade, on their
way north, a chief trader resides. Twenty or thirty packs are made
here, seven of which are beaver. A few cattle are kept at Alexandria,
about which is the only small open space in the northern country that
is cleared, the rest being covered with a dense forest, consisting prin-
cipally of different species of firs, with some birch, willow, alder,
poplar, and maple trees. The Niscotins are a small tribe, and number
but twenty families.

Fort George is another station, at the junction of Stuart's and Fra-
ser's rivers. It has a few cattle, and provides during the year a few
packs. A clerk of the Company is stationed there.

Fort Thompson, on the Kamloops river, lies in 50° 38' N., longitude
120° 7' 10" W. Fraser's, Babine, and M'Leod's, on the lakes of the
same names, together with that of Fort St. James, on Stuart's Lake,
the residence of Mr. Ogden, are all places of trade, and yield a pro-
fitable return for the expenditure and labour employed in maintaining
them. All these, as I have before stated, are under the direction of
Mr. Ogden, who is a chief factor, and has charge of the department of
New Caledonia. The Company are now extending their posts to the
northward, behind the Russian settlements, where an officer of the
Company (Mr. Campbell) has been exploring. During the summer,
the travelling in this country is performed on horseback or in cano'es ;
but in winter, when the ground is covered to a great depth with snow,
and the rivers frozen, the only mode of journeying is on snow-shoes,
or in sledges drawn by dogs. These animals draw a weight of two
hundred pounds. The snow-shoes require to be six feet long and
eighteen inches broad ; and notwithstanding the encumbrance they
might be supposed to cause, it is not uncommon for individuals in the
Company's service to travel for days together a distance of thirty-five
miles a day.

This part of the country is inhabited by the two great nations of the
north, the Takali, and Atnahs or Shouswaps: the former are also
known by the name of the Carriers. The limits occupied by these
two nations are shown on the map. The language of the Takali is a
dialect of the great Chippewayan family, which, Mr. Ogden informs
me, is spoken over the whole continent, as far as Hudson's Bay. They
do not extend to the coast, but have frequent contests with the coast
tribes about Fort Simpson, although they never have actual war. On
the east are the Siconi, who are a nation of hunters, living beyond the
Rocky Mountains. They speak a dialect of the same language, but
are totally different in their customs and character from the Carriers.

452 INDIAN TRIBES OF

The latter, indeed, differ from all the tribes around them, and the great
family to which their language points them out as belonging. They
are described as being of a lighter complexion than the more southern
tribes. Their features are larger : this is particularly the case with
the females. They somewhat resemble the Indians of the Columbia,
but are a taller arid better-looking race. The Carriers are excessively
filthy in their habits, and they have the character of being equally
depraved and prone to sexual indulgences. Among the women,
chastity is said to be unknown. They are proverbially barren, and
almost every individual is infected with that loathsome disease, the
venereal. Abortion is constantly practised among them, both before
and after marriage.

Formerly they dressed in robes made of marmot-skins, which are
taken in great quantities on the Rocky Mountains. They are now
clothed in articles of European manufacture, and obtain a plentiful
supply of them.

Their houses are built after the fashion of log cabins, of small pine
saplings, which are kept in an upright position by posts. The roof,
unlike those of the southern tribes, is of bark. Their summer houses
are often as much as seventy feet long, and about fifteen feet high.
In winter they occupy dwellings of less size, which are often covered
with grass and earth. Some of them live in excavations in the
ground, which they cover with earth, leaving only an aperture in the
roof, which serves both as an entrance for themselves, and as a vent
for the smoke.

They live chiefly upon salmon, although there are some other kinds
of fish which they take. They obtain, by hunting, a few deer, bears,
and some smaller animals, which they eat or sell. Great numbers of
wild-fowl, which, at times, almost cover their rivers and lakes, are
captured by them.

They all prefer their meat putrid, and frequently keep it until it
smells so strong as to be disgusting. Parts of the salmon they bury
under ground for two or three months to putrefy, and the more it is
decayed the greater delicacy they consider it.

Like the rest of the Indian tribes, they have their own peculiar
manner of taking the fish, which is quite ingenious. For this purpose
they build a weir across the stream, having an opening only in one
place, at which they affix a basket three feet in diameter, with the
mouth made somewhat like that of an eel-trap, through which alone
the fish can find a passage. On the side of this basket is a hole, to
which is attached a smaller basket, into which the fish pass from the
large one, and cannot return or escape. This is soon filled, and be-

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 453

comes closely packed by their rushing into it, when it is taken up and
replaced without disturbing the larger one.

They have some kind of roots or vegetable food, which with the
berries, are formed into cakes. They are exceedingly fond of oils,
and drink large quantities of them, which they procure from fish,
bears, &c. These they also use outwardly, mixed with coloured
pigments.

The most remarkable custom of these Indians that was related to
me, is the manner in which they conduct their funeral rites. If a man
dies leaving a widow, she is subject to undergo an ordeal, perhaps as
severe as any of the savage practices that prevail elsewhere on a
similar occasion. The corpse is always burned ; the funeral pile is
built and the body placed upon it, and while the fire is lighting, the
widow is compelled by the relations of the deceased to lie on it until
the heat becomes intolerable ; and if she attempts to break out, they
not unfrequently thrust her back, when she is often severely burned.
At other times she is obliged to pat the breast of her husband until it
is consumed, by which she suffers, and not unfrequently falls into the
flames without receiving any assistance from the bystanders. After
the body is consumed, she is obliged to collect the ashes and deposit
them in a small basket, which she must always carry about with her,
She afterwards becomes the servant or slave of his relations, who
exact of her the severest labour, and treat her with every indignity.
This lasts for two or three years, at the end of which time a grand
feast is given by the relatives, when the ashes are put into a box, which
is placed on a post ten feet high, daubed with representations of
animals, men, &c. ; there they are allowed to remain until the post
decays. The widow is now released from servitude, and is at liberty
to marry again.

This tribe, like the others, has priests or medicine-men, who practise
incantations. When a body is burned, the priest pretends to receive
the spirit of the deceased into his hands, which he closes with many
gesticulations. This spirit he is thought to be able to communicate to
others living, and when he has selected the person, he throws his hands
towards him, and at the same time blows upon him, after which the
person takes the name of the deceased, in addition to his own. In case
of the death of a chief, or man of higher rank, this belief affords the
priest an opportunity of acquiring much influence, and perpetuating his
power and consequence.

Eraser's river takes its rise in this region, and flows through it.
The country is also well watered by the numerous streams flowing
from the mountains. The Company's party never navigate the Fra-

454 INDIAN TRIBES OF

ser's river below Fort Thompson. Sir George Simpson, who passed
down it in 1828, stated that he found the navigation so dangerous and
difficult that it was almost totally impracticable. If it had offered any
facilities for navigation, the distance it would have saved in the trans-
portation of their goods for the northern posts, would have caused the
adoption of the route. This will readily be perceived by simply
estimating the distances. From Vancouver to Okonagan is three
hundred miles by water, with four portages ; and from Okonagan to
Fort Thompson by land, one hundred and fifty miles ; thence to Fort
Alexandria, one hundred and twenty, and as much more to Fort St.
James, one hundred and twenty miles: total, seven hundred and
twenty miles, that occupy nearly sixty days in travelling, two-thirds
of which* time is employed in going from Fort Okonagan to Fort St.
James. This distance, without loads, and with expedition, may be
travelled in twenty days.

The climate of this northern section of country is unfavourable to
agriculture, in consequence of its being situated between two ranges
of mountains, the Rocky Mountains on the east, and the extension of
the Cascade Range on the west. Both of these are constantly covered
with snow, notwithstanding which, the climate is said not to be re-
markably severe. Snow, however, lies on the ground from November
till April or May, and on an average six feet deep. From the end of
May till the beginning of September, fires can be dispensed with ; for
the rest of the year they are necessary.

There are many spots of fertile land along the rivers, but the early
frosts are a great obstacle to agriculture. Potatoes, turnips, wheat,
and barley, are, however, raised at Fort Alexandria and Fort George ;
but at the more northern, as St. James, Babine, and Fraser's, only the
two former vegetables can be cultivated. Cattle are now in consi-
derable numbers at most of the posts.

On the 19th, Lieutenant Johnson was prepared to depart, with his
party, having recruited his horses and mended his accoutrements.
The kindness of Messrs. M'Donald and Maxwell supplied all their
•wants, and enabled the party to leave Colville in a better state than
they had originally departed from Nisqually.

To these gentlemen my thanks are especially due for their attentions
to the officers, who all spoke in high terms of the kindness they
received. After their departure, they found that the ladies of the
establishment had been equally mindful of their comforts, in not only
filling their haversacks, but in supplying them with moccasins.

The latitude was ascertained, by observations at the fort, to be 48°
36' 16" N., longitude 118° 04' 00" W.

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 455

After leaving the fort, they pursued a southerly direction, for the
missionary station of Chimikaine. This is called after the name of the
plain in which it is situated, which is translated "The Plain of Springs,"
from the fact that, a few miles above the mission station, in the valley,
the streams lose themselves in the earth, and after passing under ground
for about five miles, burst out again in springs.

At the time of their visit to the Kettle Falls, the Indians were em-
ployed in spearing the salmon, which is almost the only mode used
for taking them during the first of the season. In this they are very
expert; and to see an Indian thus engaged, is an interesting sight.
He stands on the edge of the foaming pool, with his spear poised and
pointed, his body in constant and graceful motion, and his eye intent
upon his object. When he discovers a fish within reach, he instantly
darts the spear with unerring aim, and secures his prize.

They arrived at the station at a convenient hour, and found that the
two gentlemen of the mission had returned, and now united with their
wives in as warm a reception as the latter had given them on a former
occasion.

The ladies of this mission, with some others, had travelled across
the Rocky Mountains from the United States. The missionaries had
brought cattle with them, and had been now settled here for two years.
I understood that their presence had been not only of much advantage
to the Indians, who had profited somewhat by their example, but also
in a greater degree to the officers of the Hudson Bay Company, by
affording them an opportunity of educating their children, and in-
structing them in the art of the dairy.

According to Mr. Eels, the Indians are glad to have whites settle
among them, that they may procure by that means the " fine things"
which they so much covet. The conclusion they come to is, the more
the whites come the more they must receive. They are particularly
partial to the Bostons, and frequently refer back to the time when there
was rivalry in the trade.

The missionaries represent the Indians as being very easily actuated
by impulses, and impatient of restraint; but that, though quick-tempered,
they are not sullen : a revengeful spirit is always discouraged, — indeed
it is esteemed a merit to be patient under an injury. Public opinion
has a very powerful influence upon them, and few savages are more
susceptible of ridicule, to the utterance of which their language is
peculiarly adapted. Although there is but little government in families,
still they are well behaved; and it is proverbial that they seldom quarrel
among themselves. Generosity and wealth are the two qualifications
that give most consequence ; after these, comes noble blood.

456 INDIAN TRIBES OF

Their adoption of names is arbitrary, and a fortuitous circumstance
is frequently seized upon to gratify the passion for a change. The first
name they bear is generally taken from some circumstance at the
child's birth, and in after life others are added to the first, and there
are few individuals but are well supplied with them.

The missionaries have succeeded in inducing many of the Spokane
tribe of Indians to reside near them, which affords an opportunity of
attending to their temporal wants, as well as of giving them instruc-
tion.

On their way, they met a party of Pend' Oreilles Indians, digging
the cammass-root. Some of these were purchased that had been
cooked with the Oregon sunflower, which imparted to them the taste
of molasses.

Shortly after their arrival, they were joined by two Canadian free
trappers, whom our party was desirous of procuring as guides ; but it
was soon found that they were ignorant of the country, and not trust-
worthy.

The customs of the Indians, in relation to the treatment of females,
are singular. On the first appearance of the menses, they are fur-
nished with provisions, and sent into the woods, to remain concealed
for two days ; for they have a superstition, that if a man should be
seen or met with during that time, death will be the consequence. At
the end of the second day, the woman is permitted to return to the
lodge, when she is placed in a hut just large enough for her to lie in at
full length, in which she is compelled to remain for twenty days, cut
off from all communication with her friends, and is obliged to hide her
face at the appearance of a man. Provisions are supplied her daily.
After this, she is required to perform repeated ablutions, before she
can resume her place in the family. At every return, the women go
into seclusion for two or more days.

When in childbirth, they are still more hardly treated, being re-
quired to keep strictly to the hut, whence they are not suffered to be
moved, however ill they may be. Death often ensues in consequence.

In case of illness, very few comforts are allowed the sick, in conse-
quence of the custom that all the garments about a death-bed must be
buried with the body. They have no medicines, except for sores or
wounds.

The conjurors, or medicine-men, are employed to cure diseases, and
they have practices similar to those mentioned in speaking of the Noz
Perec's.

After death, burial takes place within a few hours. The corpse is
washed, wrapped in skins, \\ith the legs doubled up, and then put into

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 457

n grave three feet deep, which is surrounded and. covered with stones
and sticks, to prevent the wolves getting at it.

Widows are not allowed to change their dress for a whole year.

The men may take and put away their wives at pleasure, and both
parties may marry again. The greatest requisite sought for in a wife
is her capability of providing food. Polygamy was and is still prac-
tised. Where this is the case, or where many families reside in the
same lodge, each family or wife has a separate fire. In marriages,
permission is first asked of the chief, then the consent of the parents
is sought for, and afterwards that of the intended. If she object, it is
conclusive; if acceptance takes place, the groom gives from one to five
horses to the bride's parents, they have a pow-wow, and the marriage
is concluded. They are often espoused in infancy, but it is not con-
sidered as binding on either side. The squaws sometimes make pro-
posals to the men. In other cases, young girls are contracted for,
and the price paid down, some years in advance of the marriageable
age.

The missionaries had, as I understood, adopted the following rule
in relation to these connexions: all who already had wives were
required to maintain them, but no new ones were to be taken. In
consequence of this regulation, there have been no new instances of
polygamy.

The number of Indians that are supposed to speak dialects of the
Flathead language, is thought by the missionaries to be about five
thousand. Their weapons have been bows and arrows, which they
still use for small game: the arrows have iron points, but they use
guns in preference for killing the larger animals.

On the 21st of June, at 3 p. M., the party left the mission, being ac-
companied on their way several miles by Mr. and Mrs. Walker. After
riding ten miles in a southerly direction, they reached the Spokane
river, and found it but one hundred feet wide, with a current of three
and a half miles an hour. They swam their horses across, and passed
over themselves and luggage in a canoe, which is always left at this
point, to ferry persons over.

The formation of the country was now lava or trap, of which rock
the latitude of 48° N. seems to be the limit, after which it gives place
to granite. This was found to be the case also in the Straits of Fuca,
where the same parallel is the dividing line of the two rocks; and, as
far as our opportunities and information went, there seems to be but
little doubt that this line extends from the sea-coast to the Rocky
Mountains. We may, therefore, confidently state, that the whole
portion of the Oregon Territory to the south of the Spokane, is of

VOL. iv. 20 58

458 INDIAN TRIBES OF

igneous formation : it is comparatively level, and offers a fine example
of the old-fashioned flinty trap.

The tract of country from the mission to the Spokane is rather
sterile, and but thinly wooded, with spruce, larch, and pine, neither
of which is of great size. The banks or margin of the river, for some
distance on each side, is formed of sand and gravel, with a few alder
and willow bushes. The old chief, Bighead, joined the party here.

On the 22d, they travelled thirty miles in an east-northeasterly
direction, from the Spokane. The country they passed over would
be called hilly, with lakes and open glades intervening: the soil was
poor, with sand and stones ; a few scattered pines were seen on the
hills, and around the lakes were cotton-wood and willow bushes.

On the 23d, after travelling five miles, they reached a camp of
Spokane Indians, in number about three hundred, at the entrance of a
fine meadow, where they had a number of horses feeding, while they
were procuring the cammass-root. The number of lodges was twenty,
some of which were conical, and of buffalo-skins. With this party were
an Indian and a Canadian Frenchman, both of whom spoke English
intelligibly. As the party entered the camp, a stout savage seized one
of the horses, which he claimed as having belonged to him, and which
he said had been stolen. Evidence was subsequently produced that the
fellow had lost the horse by gambling, of which all these Indians are
notoriously fond.

The horse had been purchased near Colville, for a musket. The
party remonstrated against this violent seizure, through the Canadian,
upon which the Indian relinquished the bridle, walked directly up to
his lodge, loaded his rifle, and was about to shoot either horse or rider.
Two of the gentlemen instantly stepped up to him, with their guns
ready, telling him if he pointed his gun at any one, they would blow
his brains out. On this he explained that his intention was to shoot the
horse, but he was now afraid to do this ; and the affair was settled by
a few presents. The party at once passed quietly through the camp,
and were glad to be rid of such troublesome neighbours.

In the afternoon, they passed through a rich and fertile valley,
running in a southwest and northeast direction, in which the horses
sank in clover up to their knees ; and this day they made twenty-eight
miles.

Among the beasts belonging to our party, was a spotted horse,
which the Indians were extremely desirous of procuring, as it was a
favourite kind with them ; but their offers did not prove equivalent to
his value. On the other hand, the party succeeded in purchasing a
horse from the Indians, which they much required, but which after-

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 459

wards turned out to belong to the Hudson Bay Company, having been
stolen from them. Horses with the Indians are considered the sign of
wealth, and are prized accordingly. One of their great amusements
is horse-racing, in which their gambling propensities have full sway.
Notwithstanding that horses are the great source of contention and
diilieulty between the whites and Indians, it is said that little or none
occurs between themselves, and that they are not prone to commit
depredations on each other. This may be owing to the apprehension
that the difficulty would not only involve the individual, but the whole
tribe, which is a necessary consequence among uncivilized people.

Several of the Indians at the camp through which they passed, were
well dressed in robes obtained by themselves from the buftaloes; for
these Indians, as well as others from the Oregon, near the coast, visit
the buffalo-grounds annually.

The Indian, who spoke good English, stated that he had been five
years at the white man's settlement. On his return he was made
chief, and at that time his authority was great in the tribe ; but now,
owing to his propensity for gambling, he has lost all his influence.

On the 24th, they passed through a fine rolling prairie country, pro-
ducing very fine pasture, and being well watered, though destitute of
wood. The distance made to-day was thirty miles. The plants seen
were Convolvulus, Frasera, Habenaria, Calochortus, Baptisia, and Tri-
folium : this last is a good plant for cattle.

During the day, they met a party of Indians travelling, with abun-
dance of spare horses, and in this case they were carrying even their
tent-poles, with which one of their horses was loaded : a proof that
underwood of the description used is scarce in the country. Within
thirty miles of Lapwai, the mission station on the Kooskooskee, they
crossed a small tributary of the Snake river, thirty feet wide and two
deep. It was very winding, and its general course was southwest.
About twenty miles distant, in a south-southeast direction, they disco-
vered a high snowy peak, which is situated near the Grande Ronde,
and is the highest point of what is termed the Blue Ridge. On its
summit the snow remains all the year round.

Beyond the Snake or Lewis river, was a long even-topped ridge,
wooded on its upper parts, and covered with snow. This is the moun-
tain which Mr. Drayton ascended near the Wallawalla. From the
northwest, it has the appearance of an extensive and elevated table-land.

On the 25th, about noon, they reached the Kooskooskee, which is two
thousand feet below the plain they had been travelling on. It is here
eight hundred feet wide, and a powerful stream. Lewis and Clarke
fell upon this river about forty-five miles above this place, and it is not

460 INDIAN TRIBES OF

difficult to imagine how they were induced to suppose that they had
reached the great river flowing to the west, so totally different is it
from the Ohio and Missouri. The missionaries informed me, in expla-
nation of this, that the Indians have names for all the nooks and points
along the rivers, but none for the rivers themselves : they further state,
in reference to these travellers, that when they made their appearance,
the Indians for some time doubted whether they were really men, so
overgrown were they with beards, and of course so different from this
beardless race.

Mr. Spalding has built himself a house of two stories, with board
floors, as well as a grist and saw mill. For these he procured the
timber in the mountains, and rafted it down himself; in doing which
he has not neglected to attend to the proper sphere of his duties, for
his labours will compare in this respect with those of any of his
brethren. His efforts in agriculture are not less exemplary, for he
has twenty acres of fine wheat, and a large field in which were
potatoes, corn, melons, pumpkins, peas, beans, &c., the whole of which
were in fine order.

This part of Oregon is admirably adapted to the raising of sheep :
the ewes bear twice a year, and often produce twins. One ewe was
pointed out to our gentlemen, that had seven lambs within three hun-
dred and sixty-three days. Horned cattle also thrive, but the stock is
at present limited. The Indians have a strong desire to procure them.
A party was persuaded to accompany a missionary, and take horses
over to St. Louis, to exchange for cattle. When they reached the
Sioux country, the chiefs being absent at Washington, they were
attacked and all murdered, except the white man.

Mr. Spalding, during his residence of five years, has kept a register
of the weather : this he was kind enough to present to the Expedition,
and it will be found in Appendix XIII. Mr. Spalding regards the
climate as a rainy one, notwithstanding the appearance of aridity on
the vegetation. There is no doubt of its being so in winter, and even
during summer there is much wet. A good deal of rain had fallen
the month before our visit. The nights were always cool. The tem-
perature falls at times to a low point. On the 10th of December,
1836, it fell to — 10°; and subsequently was not so low till the 16th of
January, 1841, when it fell to — 26°; and on the 10th of February, it
was as low as — 14°.

The greatest heat experienced during his residence was in 1837: on
the 23d July, in that year, the thermometer was 108° in the shade. In
1840, it was 107" ; and in the sun, it reached 144°. The extreme
variations of the thermometer are more remarkable, the greatest

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 461

monthly change being 72° ; while the greatest daily range was 58°.
Mr. Spalding remarks, that, since his residence, no two years have
been alike. The grass remains green all the year round. In their
cultivation, irrigation is necessary ; and the wheat fields, as well as
those of vegetables, &c., were treated in this way. Indian corn suc-
ceeds well.

Among the other duties of Mr. Spalding, he has taught the Indians
the art of cultivation, and many of them now have plantations. The
idea of planting seeds had never occurred to the Oregon Indians before
the arrival of the missionaries. Mr. Spalding kindly lends them his
ploughs and other implements of husbandry : and on a difficulty
occurring with some of them, he had only to threaten them with the
loss of the plough, to bring the refractory person to reason. One of
the Indians had entirely abandoned his former mode of life, had built
himself a log cabin, and both himself and wife were neatly dressed in
European costume. The women are represented as coming a distance
of many miles to learn to spin and knit, and assist Mrs. Spalding in
her domestic avocations.

Mr. Spalding gave his assembled flock some account of the Expe-
dition, and a short sketch of the people we had seen, which the Indians
listened to with great interest, and appeared to comprehend perfectly,
with the aid of a map.

Mr. Spalding stated, that the number of Oregon Indians whom he
had ascertained to have visited the United States was surprising. He
informed our gentlemen that he had sent letters to Boston in eighty-
one days from the Dalles, by means of Indians and the American
rendezvous ; and, what was remarkable, the slowest part of the route
was from St. Louis to Boston. The communication is still carried on
by Indians, although it was generally supposed to be by the free trap-
pers. He considers that these tribes, both men and women, are an
industrious people.

Our thanks were due to Mr. Spalding for his kindness in exchanging
horses, which enabled our party to proceed more comfortably, and to
carry forward their collections.

On the 26th, they left the mission at Lapwai, accompanied by the
missionaries and their ladies, intending to visit some of the rude farms
of the natives. These are situated in a fertile valley, running in a
southerly direction from the Kooskooskee. The farms are from five
to twelve acres each, all fenced in, and on these the Indians cultivate
wheat, corn, potatoes, melons, pumpkins, &c. One of them, in the
year 1840, raised four hundred bushels of potatoes and forty-five
bushels of wheat. With part of the potatoes he bought enough butfalo-
202

462 INDIAN TRIBES OF

meat to serve him through the winter. All these lots were kept in
good order, and several had good mud houses on them. The great
endeavour of Mr. Spalding is to induce the Indians to give up their
roving mode of life, and to settle down and cultivate the soil ; and in
this he is succeeding admirably. He shows admirable tact and skill,
together with untiring industry and perseverance in the prosecution of
his labours as a missionary ; and he appears to be determined to leave
nothing undone that one person alone can perform. In the winter, his
time and that of his wife is devoted to teaching, at which season their
school is much enlarged.

On their way, they fell in with some half-breeds, going to hunt
buffalo. Among them there were four brothers, all fine-looking young
men, and very much alike. Many of the Indians, as has before been
remarked, visit the buffalo-grounds. These have been constantly
changing, and, within the memory of many of the hunters, their
limits have been very much circumscribed. From the accounts we
received, these animals are not now found west of the Portneuf river,
and their range has been materially changed since the arrival of the
whites. Instead now of migrating to the south during the winter,
they are reported as seeking a more northern clime, and are now
found as far north as 64° : four degrees farther in that direction than
their former range. This abandonment of their feeding-grounds is
unknown in any other American animal, and may forebode their
extinction at no very distant day.

At 3 p. M., after travelling fifteen miles, they reached the banks of
the Snake river, at the forks. On their way down the Kooskooskee,
they had met with numerous herds of horses belonging to the Indians ;
and here they found the owners, consisting of about one hundred and
fifty persons. There was but one building, which was of a circular
form and a hundred feet in diameter. It was built of rails or rough
joists set on end, which supported a roof of the same material, and
served the double purpose of sheltering the inhabitants and drying
their fish. The different families were arranged around the walls in
the interior. These Indians paid no attention to our party while
passing, but soon after sent up two canoes, to ferry them and their
luggage over the river ; which being finished, they \vent away without
demanding any thing for their services, and exhibiting a sort of inde-
pendence, characteristic of this race when they think themselves well
off or rich.

The party crossed the Snake river about a mile above its junction
with the Kooskooskee: its breadth here was seven hundred and fifty
feet, and its banks were destitute of trees and bushes. The Snake

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 463

river abounds in salmon ; but few are found in the Kooskooskee, in
which the Indians say the water is too clear to spear salmon. A few
miles below the junction of the two rivers, the Snake or Lewis river is
bounded by a range of high basaltic columns, affording a fine speci-
men of that structure. Under these the party encamped, some twenty
miles from Lapwai. The greater portion of the prairie they had just
passed over, is only fit for sheep-pasture.

The Snake river is much inferior to the north branch of the Colum-
bia, notwithstanding its length of course ; but after it is joined by the
Kooskooskee, it becomes much enlarged. It resembles the north
branch in being sunk, as it were, in a deep trench, much below the
level of the country ; and its banks are even more naked than those
of the Columbia.

On the 27th, they travelled forty miles, at first in a westerly course,
and then southwest. The country was hilly, with deep valleys, in
which there was water and an abundance of good pasturage. A few
willow and alder bushes were all that were seen. In one of the val-
leys, they saw a considerable tract irrigated and under cultivation,
and small patches of corn on the hill-sides. From the hills over
which they passed, they had a view of a high even-topped ridge, on
which there were trees of large size. On the north, beyond the Snake
river, was an almost boundless expanse of level plain. The prairie
that they passed over during the day, was observed to have lost its
flowery character, and become altogether grassy.

On the 28th, they rode fifty-six miles, the first thirty-six of which
was through a country of the same character as that they had passed
the day before, but the last twenty took them over a sandy desert, on
which the vegetation consisted only of wormwood. They reached
Wallawalla before dark, and were kindly welcomed by Mr. M'Lean,
one of the Company's clerks, who was in charge of that post.

On the 30th, Lieutenant Johnson joined them again. On his leaving
the mission at Chimikaine, he had pursued an easterly course, along
the Spokane river, until he reached the falls, of which there are four,
three of ten feet, and one of forty, besides which there are rapids ;
and the whole fall of the river, within a distance of one thousand feet,
is about one hundred feet. After travelling a distance of ten miles,
both the distant mountains and prairies expanded to the view : the
former rising ridge beyond ridge, while the latter exhibited a breadth
of seven miles. The nearest range of mountains trends east and west.
Six miles further on, they came to the Little Falls, and above them
about six miles to the lake of Cosur d'Alene. The breadth of this lake
is two miles, by five miles long, in an east-southeast and west-north-

464 INDIAN TRIBES OF

west direction. There is a smaller lake to the northward, half a mile
in length. The mountains were of granite. A large number of in-
habitants were seen, who used canoes of bark. Lieutenant Johnson
then returned on his path for a few miles, and afterwards pursued
nearly the same direction that the party had done before him. It is
therefore unnecessary to repeat what has been before said of this
route. He made the latitute of Lapwai 46° 27' 00" N. ; and measured
the width of the river, which was found to be four hundred and sixty
feet.

There are a number of singular customs prevailing among the Nez
Perces, perhaps a greater number than in any other nation of savages.
That of overcoming the " Wawish," or spirit of fatigue, if it may be
so translated, is the most remarkable ; for this is a ceremony to enable
them to endure fatigue, that has long been practised among them, and
is still kept up. The operation continues for three, five, and seven
days, and is often repeated. It is begun on the first day by taking
three or four willow sticks, eighteen inches long, and thrusting them
down the throat, in order to cleanse the stomach by bringing up bile,
blood, and coagulated matter ; a hole is then prepared, of a sufficient
depth for a man to sit upright, with his head above the ground. This
is usually dug near a running brook.

On the second day they fast, and collect other willow sticks, of one-
eighth of an inch in diameter, the distance of the navel from the mouth
being their length. These are slightly rounded and made smooth, and
are passed down to the bottom of the stomach, which causes a severe
irritation and vomiting, and is continued until it produces a burning
sensation : this is repeated from time to time until noon, and not unfre-
quently as often as eighteen or twenty times. The number of sticks is
diminished as the throat becomes sore. When noon arrives, they
plunge into cold water, and remain there till evening, when they take
half a pint of porridge.

The third day, a similar course is gone through.

On the fourth day, after heating a number of stones, they get into
the pit, the water in which is heated by throwing in the hot stones,
until it is no longer to be endured ; they then plunge into cold water,
and remain there slapping themselves until they are quite benumbed ;
they then again resort to the hot bath, and continue to pass from the
one to the other throughout the day, during which they are allowed to
eat porridge, but to take no drink.

On the fifth, sixth, and seventh days, the same operation is repeated,
until 2 p. M., after which hour they eat largely, and satisfy both hunger
and thirst. This treatment is said to be gone through several times by

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 465

some of them, and after the probation, they deem themselves capable
of enduring both heat and cold, of sustaining fatigue, of outrunning
horses, pursuing game, and overcoming their enemies. If this is
neglected to be performed annually, they believe that the system be-
becomes easily fatigued, and Wawish is again their master.

This treatment generally begins at the age of eighteen, and is only
discontinued when they have a large family, or have passed the most
active age by reaching that of forty years ; some, however, from a
feeling of pride, are said to continue it much beyond this period.

The officers at Wallawalla mentioned, that some of the Indians had
remarkable powers of undergoing fatigue, and instanced the case of
one who performed the journey from Dr. Whitman's mission-house to
the forks of the Clearwater, a distance of one hundred miles, between
morning and sunset. This man is in the habit of performing this
treatment on himself annually.

The Indians around Lapwai subsist for the most part upon fish,
roots, and berries : the latter they make into cakes; moss is also eaten
by them. Half of these Indians usually make a trip to the buffalo
country for three months, by which means they are supplied with the
flesh of that animal.

The school at the station has in winter about five hundred scholars,
but in the summer not one-tenth of that number attend. Our gentle-
men heard some of the pupils read. Only two are converts to Chris-
tianity, the principal chief and another ; eight or ten, however, are
reported as showing signs of piety.

The men are industrious, for Indians. The mission have a saw-mill
at this place, capable of sawing three thousand feet per day.

The usual games of the Indians, which have been already described,
are played here. The w ages for the performance of any task are paid
for in clothing, blankets, horses, &c.

Their salmon-fishing i-s conducted with much industry, and lasts from
daylight until ten o'clock at night. Supper is their principal meal.

The scalps of enemies are taken in war, and the war-dance is always
performed.

Girls are offered as wives to the young men by the parents: the
ties of marriage are very loose, and wives are put away at pleasure.
This privilege is also allowed to the women, which places the two
sexes much more on a par than among the tribes west of the moun-
tains.

The medicine men and women are much in repute here. Before
any sorcery or divination is performed, they retire to the mountains
for several days, where they fast, and where they pretend to have an

VOL. iv. 59

INDIAN TRIBES OF

interview with the waiakin or wolf. When they return, they relate
the conversation they have had with him, and proceed to effect cures.
&c. They are looked upon as invulnerable, and it is believed that balls
fired at them are flattened against their breasts. If affronted or injured,
they predict death to the offender, and the doom is considered inevi-
table. They use the same means of extricating diseases that have been
before described.

Wild animals are nowr comparatively few, when compared with
their former numbers. They consist of wolves, large and small, who
prowl around the dwellings ; lynxes, bears, of the gray, brown, black,
and yellow colours, the former of which were the most numerous.
Beavers and otters are now both scarce. Rats, both water and musk,
are seen in numbers.

Mr. Hale, the philologist of the Expedition, who was left in the
Oregon Territory, passed from Waiilaptu, the mission station of Dr.
Whitman, to Chimikaine and Fort Colville, by the Peluse river,
crossing the country over the middle sections of Oregon, about half
way between the route the party under Lieutenant Johnson pursued
to Lapwai. Mr. Hale describes the country as an upland plain,
covered with herbage, but without trees. There were no running
streams, but numerous ponds of fresh water. This is the most direct
route to Fort Colville, and is that usually chosen by the servants of
the Hudson Bay Company. It passes by the Peluse river, and follows
its windings.

The falls upon this river are of some note, and are called Aputaput ;
and they will hereafter be an object of interest to travellers in this
country. The river pours down, in a cataract of foam, through a
perpendicular descent of one hundred feet, and is received in a basin,
surrounded by basaltic walls, between two and three hundred feet in
height. These falls are celebrated in Indian mythology. Among
other legends, it is related that a woman of gigantic size lived in that
part of the country, with four brothers of equal stature. She became
very desirous of obtaining some beaver's fat, but whether for a deli-
cacy or cosmetic is not known. At this time there was only one
beaver, and that of enormous dimensions, inhabiting the banks of the
Snake river. The brothers hunted him for a long time without suc-
cess : many places along the river, in which he could harbour, were
searched, but without finding his hiding-places. Finally, the animal
was surprised at the mouth of the Peluse, which was then a peaceful
stream, winding through an even channel. As the beaver retreated
up the stream, he was pursued, and overtaken two miles from its
mouth. At first they pinned him to the earth with their spears, but

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 467

by a violent effort he broke loose and fled. This struggle produced
the first rapids of the Peluse. A little farther up they again overtook
the beaver, who again made his escape, by producing the second
rapids; and lastly, where he was secured, his dying struggles gave
rise to the great falls of the Aputaput. After killing him, and taking
his skin and fat, they cut up the body, and threw the pieces in various
directions, from which has arisen the various tribes in the region;
among them the Cayuse, the Nez Perce, Wallawalla, &c. The
Cayuse are said to have sprung from the heart, and became, in con-
sequence, a strong and thriving people, which they continue to be to
this day.

The party remained but a few days at Wallawalla. Their measure-
ment made the width of the river at this point, two thousand seven
hundred and sixty feet, but in it there are many small islets.

At Wallawalla, as before stated, there is no soil, even for a garden ;
but a spot of about fifty acres, three miles from Wallawalla, on the
banks of the river Columbia, and called by the same name as the post,
has been for some time past cultivated. On this is grown wheat, corn,
peas, potatoes, &c. The garden embraces about two acres, where all
the smaller vegetables had been sowed, but it was entirely neglected,
and overgrown with weeds. The soil of this garden is a deep rich
brown loam.

On the sandy plain about Wallawalla, as was to be expected, there
are but few plants to be found. A Salsola, Opuntia, Dalea, Oberonia,
and Rubiacea3, with several Composite, were all that were found.
Hares were seen on the prairies in numbers : these are larger than the
English hare, had larger ears and limbs, and are of a lighter colour.
They do not burrow, as has generally been supposed, but form a shal-
low seat or nest under the wormwood-bushes.

While they stayed at Wallawalla, Dr. Whitman came down to visit
them, and kindly offered his services.

The diversity of languages heard during this jaunt, was very re-
markable. The dialect seemed to change with almost every party of
Indians they met with, and it was frequently necessary for words to
pass through three or four different interpreters, before they could be
comprehended, and an answer obtained. It was thought, at times,
that every family must have a language of its own. It is difficult
to account for this state of things. The tribes on the west of the
mountains have been, for the most part, at peace with each other, and
have had much intercourse, for the purpose of trading their fish and
other articles ; yet but few can understand their immediate neighbours.

468 INDIAN TRIBES OF

One cause of this discrepancy may arise from the length of the
Indian words, which are always abbreviated in talking. According
to Dr. Whitman, the Indians of one tribe very soon pick up the lan-
guage of another. He also stated that the Nez Perce dialect is fast
gaining upon that of Wallawalla ; and he thinks that the rising genera-
tion are inclined to a more general language.

On the 4th of July, they left the fort and crossed the river. The
Columbia is here an imposing stream, and its waters flow in a rapid
and powerful current. Mr. M'Lean's kindness and attention were
similar to that already met with, and he provided them with the
necessary horses, provisions, &c.

On the maps of the Oregon Territory, opposite Wallawalla, a
volcanic mountain has been exhibited; but none exists here, nor on
inquiry could any information be obtained of any such object in the
country around.

The party now pursued the route up the river, and in two hours
reached the Yakima, up whose valley they passed, encamping after
making twenty-five miles. The country was rolling, and might be
termed sandy and barren.

Mount St. Helen's, with its snow-capped top, was seen at a great
distance to the west.

On the 5th, they continued their route, and at midday were over-
taken by an Indian, with a note informing them of the arrival of Mr.
Drayton at Wallawalla with the brigade. This was quick travelling
for news in Oregon ; for so slow is it usually carried, that our party
were the first to bring the news of the arrival and operations of the
squadron in Oregon. This intelligence had not previously reached
Wallawalla, although it is considered to be on the direct post-route to
the interior, notwithstanding we had been in the country nearly two
months. The news of the murder of Mr. Black, in New Caledonia,
was nearly a year in reaching some points on the coast.

This was one of the warmest days they had experienced, and the
thermometer under the shade of a canopy stood at 108°. At a short
distance from the place where they stopped was a small hut, composed
of a few branches and reeds, which was thought to be barely sufficient
to contain a sheep ; yet under it were four generations of human
beings, all females, seated in a posture, which, to whites, would have
been impracticable. They had just procured their subsistence for the
day, and their meal consisted of the berries of the dogwood. The
scene was not calculated to impress one very favourably with savage
life. The oldest of these had the cartilage of the nose pierced, but

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 469

the others had not; leading to the conclusion that the practice had
been discontinued for some years in the nation, who still, however,
retain the name.

The country exhibited little appearance of vegetation ; the herbage
was quite dried up, and from appearances was likely to continue so
throughout the season. The prevailing vegetation consisted of bushes
of wormwood, stinted in growth, and unyielding.

After making thirty-three miles, they encamped among loose sand,
one hundred feet above the water of the river. Many rattlesnakes
were found in this vicinity.

Owing to the quantities of musquitoes, combined with the fear of
snakes, the party obtained little or no rest, and were all glad to mount
their horses and proceed on their way.

In the early part of the day, they arrived at the junction of the
Spipen with the Yakima: previous to this they crossed another branch,
coming in from the southwest; the waters of the latter were very
turbid, of a dark-brown colour, and it was conjectured that it had its
source at or near Mount Rainier. Along its banks was seen a range
of basaltic columns. The Yakima was crossed during the day in
canoes, the river not being yet fordable.

The country, which had for some days exhibited the appearance of
the Tillandsia districts of Peru, had now begun to acquire a tinge of
green, and some scattered pine trees had become visible. Some small
oaks were passed, which appeared of a local character. This night
they again had a number of rattlesnakes in their camp.

On the 8th, the valley had narrowed, and the banks becoming more
perpendicular, they had a great many difficulties to encounter. They
stopped at the camp of old Tidins, whom, it will be recollected, they
had encountered after crossing the mountains, and from whom they
obtained some horses. They soon afterwards arrived at the path
where they had turned off to the north. The river had fallen very
much during their absence, and there was a marked difference in the
season, the vegetation being much more backward than in the parts
they had recently visited. The berries were just beginning to ripen,
while in the plains, not twenty miles distant, they were already over.
Old Tidias determined to accompany them to Nisqually, taking with
him his son, and lending them several horses. The Spipen, up which
they passed, was now hemmed in by mountain ridges, occasionally
leaving small portions of level ground. They encamped at the place
they had occupied on the 30th of May.

The vegetation, since they had passed this place, had so much
advanced that they had difficulty in recognising it again. The wet

2P

470 INDIAN TRIBES OF

prairies were overgrown with rank grass, from one to two feet in
height. After a short rest at the foot of the mountain, they began
its ascent, and reached the crest of the ridge in about three hours.
On every side they found a low growth of shrubs, which they had
not suspected when it was covered with snow, and causing the
summit to differ essentially from the broad ridge they had crossed
between the Yakima and Pischous rivers. They encamped for the
night on the edge of a wet prairie, which afforded pasturage for their
horses.

The next day they passed through several similar prairies, and
descended the western slope of the mountain, where they found more
patches of snow than on the east side. This was just the reverse of
what they had found on their previous passage; the season, too, was
evidently much less advanced. This circumstance was supposed to
be owing to the denser forest on the west, as well as the absence of
elevated plains.

They encamped the same night at the little prairie before spoken of,
at the foot of the western slope. Before reaching it, they met a party
of men and women carrying a sick chief over the mountain, who was
evidently dying. It was affecting to see him stretching forth his hand
to them as they passed, as if desiring to be friends with all before he
died. He died the same night.

The two next days it rained almost constantly, but they found the
road much less difficult to travel than before, and the streams were
fordable, which enabled them to make more rapid progress.

On the 13th, they passed the Smalocho, and on the 15th reached
Nisqually, all well ; having performed a journey of about one thou-
sand miles without any material accident, except those that have
been related as having occurred to the instruments. They traversed
a route which white men had never before taken, thus enabling us to
become acquainted with a portion of the country about which all had
before been conjecture. They had also made a large addition to our
collection of plants.

Besides the information obtained by the party, several old trappers
were met with, who communicated many interesting particulars in
relation to the eastern tribes of Oregon. These do not come within
the direct object of my narrative, but they possess a sufficient degree
of interest, and have reference to regions so little known, that I do
not hesitate to give them a place, particularly as the facts are con-
sistent with each other, and so well borne out by information collated
from other quarters.

The principal tribe of Indians inhabiting the Rocky Mountains, -are

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 471

the Blackfeet. They are properly a collection of five tribes, that have
become one nation, rather from the force of circumstances than by
any premeditated plan, or natural bond of union. These five tribes
are, the Gros Ventres of the prairie, who, however, are not to be con-
founded with the Gros Ventres of the Missouri, who speak the Crow
language ; the Pilgans, or Pikani ; the Blood Indians ; the Surcees ;
and the Blackfeet proper. The Pilgans, Blackfeet, and Blood Indians,
speak the same language ; while the Surcees and the Gros Ventres
have one of their own. Their union took place within the memory of
the oldest living members of the tribe.

The Gros Ventres are the most numerous, the Blood Indians next,
then the Pilgans, and last the Blackfeet, who, however, in the year
1840, numbered nearly six hundred and fifty lodges. The whole
number of the five tribes is supposed to be no less than twenty
thousand ; but this is doubtless much exaggerated. These tribes are
constantly at war with their Indian neighbours, as well as with the
whites ; and although an impression has been entertained that the
Blackfeet are hostile to the Americans alone, this is not the case, for
they make no distinction between white men. I have been told by
gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company, that they are equally formi-
dable to British traders, and have cut off a number of their trappers ;
yet, notwithstanding this, some whites are established among them,
and have great influence in the nation ; although they cannot at all
times protect others who fall into their hands. It is dangerous for
stragglers to pass through the country ranged by the Blackfeet, as it is
said to be not uncommon for the tribe to have out thirty war-parties
at a time.

From some of the officers of the Hudson Bay Company, I learned
that there were many Delawares and Shawanese among the Blackfeet,
and that the former, known by the name of the " Shaved Heads," were
much dreaded by the other tribes. The Blackfeet appear to have
obtained their reputation for prowess from the advantage acquired by
the use of fire-arms, which they obtained sooner than the Oregon
Indians, among whom they then made great havoc, and whom they
inspired with corresponding fear. Since the latter, however, have also
obtained these weapons, the disparity no longer exists.

The Blackfeet principally inhabit that part of the Rocky Mountains
between the head waters of the Columbia, and those of the Missouri
and Yellowstone rivers.

The Snakes, or Shoshones, are widely-scattered tribes, and some
even assert that they are of the same race as the Camanches, whose
separation is said to be remembered by the Snakes : it has been ascer-

472 INDIAN TRIBES OF

tained, in confirmation of this Opinion, that they both speak the same
language. The hunters report, that the proper country of the Snakes
is to the east of the Youta Lake, and north of the Snake or Lewis
river ; but they are found in many detached places. The largest band
is located near Fort Boise, on the Snake river, to the north of the
Bonacks. The Snakes have horses and fire-arms, and derive their
subsistence both from the chase and from fishing. There are other
bands of them, to the north of the Bonacks, who have no horses, and
live on acorns and roots, their only arms being bows and arrows. In
consequence of the mode of gaining their subsistence, they are called
" Diggers," and are looked upon with great contempt.

The Crows inhabit the country between the Wind River Mountains
and the Platte ; and are represented as not so hostile at present to the
whites as the Blackfeet. The former are much the most shrewd and
intelligent of the Indian tribes, and keep up a continual war with the
Blackfeet and Snakes. The battle-ground of these three nations is
about the head waters of the Pjatte, Green, and Snake rivers, or in the
vicinity of Fremont's South Pass. Their proper, or Indian name, is
" Upsaroka."

The Bonacks resemble the Snakes in their character and habits.
They inhabit the country between Fort Boise and Fort Hall, and are
considered as a braver people than the Snakes, with whom they
are occasionally at war; but their particular enemy is the tribe of
Cayuses.

The Sampiches are a tribe wandering over the desert south of the
Youta Lake. Their language is said to be allied to that of the Snakes,
and their habits to those of the " Diggers," or poorer Snakes.

The Youtas inhabit the country between the Snake and Green
rivers. These also resemble the " Diggers" in appearance and mode
of life, although their language is by some thought to be peculiar.

The barren country between the Youta Lake and the Californian
range of mountains, is thinly inhabited by Indians, speaking the same
language as the Bonacks. Mr. Newell, of the Willamette, has known
Indians of these tribes acquainted with individuals of the Bonacks.

Southwest of the Youta Lake live a tribe who are known by the
name of the Monkey Indians ; a term which is not a mark of contempt,
but is supposed to be a corruption of their name. They are said to
differ remarkably from the other natives of this country ; and the
description of them has the air of romance, though it appears to be w jll
substantiated by persons who have travelled in the direction of their
country. But few have seen them, except the hunters of Mr. Walker's
party who were with Captain Bonneville. They are reported to live

THE INTERIOR OF OREGON. 473

in fastnesses among high mountains, to-have good clothing and houses;
to manufacture blankets, shoes, and various other articles, which they
sell to the neighbouring tribes.

Their colour is as light as that of the Spaniards ; and the women in
particular are very beautiful, with delicate features, and long flowing
hair. They are said to be very neat in their persons, dignified and
decorous in their manners, and exceedingly modest. The story goes,
that the hunters who saw them were so much pleased, that they deter-
mined to return and settle among them ; but on their return to the
Rocky Mountains, they were prevented by old associations. Some
have attempted to connect these with an account of an ancient Welsh
colony, which others had thought they discovered among the Mandans
of the Missouri ; while others were disposed to believe they might still
exist in the Monkeys of the Western Mountains. There is another
account, which speaks of the Monquoi Indians, who formerly inhabited
Lower California, and were partially civilized by the Spanish mission-
aries ; but who have left that country, and of whom all traces have long
since been lost. Perhaps some future travellers may be able to discover
them again, and give their true history; for that there exists a small
tribe of different manners and habits from those who surround them,
there appears to be but little doubt.

Though not immediately allied with my subject, yet some informa-
tion which I obtained in relation to the Indians east of the Rocky
Mountains, may be interesting. Between the Green and Arkansas
rivers, are the Navahoes, and south of them the Apaches. These
hover about the Spanish settlements, which they frequently ravage, and
whence they carry off the children as slaves. The trappers informed
us, that it was no uncommon circumstance to see among them, Spanish
boys, still speaking their own language, serving as slaves ; and hand-
some white girls, living as wives to the haughty Apache warriors.

One thing seems well established, that the tribes are gradually ex-
tending themselves to the southward, or rather, the more northern are
encroaching on those of the south. It is well known, that what is now
called the Blackfeet country was formerly possessed by the Snakes ;
and that the older men of the nation are well acquainted with this
fact. The country now in possession of the Snakes, belonged to the
Bonacks, who have been driven to the Sandy Desert. The Kiniwas
and Camanches are instances of the same occurrence. This move-
ment is attributed to the desire of each tribe to possess a more fertile
soil and more genial climate ; and to the exhaustion of game or
emigration of the buffalo to the east. There are none of these animals
now found west of the Youta Lake; and several years ago, according

VOL. IV. 2P2 60

474

INDIAN TRIBES.

to the hunters, they deserted that region to range nearer the Rocky
Mountains : the space between which and the then Bates is now the
great buffalo country ; and frequented by the Nez Perces, Bonacks,
Snakes, and Flatheads, where these latter have frequent contests with
the Crows and Blackfeet.

Those who have travelled the route from the United States to the
Oregon Territory, seem to have but little dread for the war-parties of
the Indians, who seldom now venture to attack any party of whites,
however small. The great difficulty experienced by them, is in pro-
curing food for their animals and themselves at the point where many
other obstacles are to be overcome ; but the way for the emigrant is
far les*s toilsome, from the accounts of those who have gone through
the hardships, than has been represented. It will not be many years
before these difficulties will not be considered, and in all probability
the new routes that will be found will render the travel much less
fatiguing to both man and beast. One great impediment to the
traveller, after this journey is performed, has been already removed ;
for, on his arrival in the Oregon, he now meets with his friends, and
every thing that he can desire, to insure his comfort in a new country ;
instead of, as formerly, depending upon the precarious supply furnished
by the Indians.

INDIAN MAT HUT.

CHAPTEE XIV.

CONTENTS.

RETURN FROM THE SURVEYS-NEW LAND EXPEDITION FITTED OUT-LEAVE-TAKING

— DEPARTURE FROM NISaU ALLY — ANXIETY RESPECTING THE PEACOCK — PRAISE-
WORTHY SPIRIT OF THE OFFICERS AND CREW— VASHON'S ISLAND— NEW DUNGENESS

— THE PORPOISE JOINS THE VINCENNES — OPERATIONS OF THE PORPOISE — COM-
MENCEMENT BAY — PORT ORCHARD— PORT MADISON— CATHOLIC MISSION— METEOR—
PENN'S COVE-GOOD EFFECTS OF THE MISSIONARY EFFORTS — FORTIFICATIONS OF
THE INDIANS— MINERAL SPRING-PORT GARDNER— SACHET INDIANS— THEIR DRESS—
THEIR DISEASES— DECEPTION PASSAGE— PASSAGE INTO BELLINGHAM BAY — INDIAN
TRIBES — FRASER'S RIVER— PLANS OF FURTHER OPERATIONS — BOAT EXPEDITION
ACROSS THE STRAITS— NEWS OF THE LOSS OF THE PEACOCK— CHANGE OF PLANS-
MESSAGE SENT TO ASTORIA— VINCENNES AND PORPOISE SAIL FROM NEW DUNGE-
NESS—PORT SCARBOROUGH— CLASSET INDIANS— THEIR MODE OF TAKING WHALES-
DEPARTURE FROM THE STRAITS OF DE FUCA— DE FUCA'S PILLAR— PORPOISE PARTS
COMPANY— SOUNDINGS ON THE COAST — CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT — SHIP OROZIMBO—
MEETING WITH CAPTAIN HUDSON— SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE COLUMBIA RIVER
—DETAILS OF THE PEACOCK'S DISASTER— WANT OF GOOD PILOTS— PERILOUS POSI-
TION OF THE PEACOCK'S BOATS— ALL THE OFFICERS AND CREW SAFELY LANDED—
THEIR KIND RECEPTION BY THE OFFICERS OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY AND
THE MISSIONARIES— NEW DISPOSITION OF THE SQUADRON— PORPOISE ENTERS THE
COLUMBIA RIVER— VINCENNES SAILS FOR SAN FRANCISCO.

(475)

CHAPTER XIV.

DE FUCA'S STRAITS AND LOSS OF THE PEACOCK.

1841.

WHEN Lieutenant Johnson returned with his party, I was still en-
gaged with the boats in completing the surveys of the remaining arms
of Puget Sound. Orders had been left with Lieutenant Carr, to have
the ships prepared for sea against the return of* the surveying party;
and on the evening of the 16th June, when we reached the Vincennes,
we found every thing ready for our departure.

Lieutenant Johnson was again ordered to fit out a party to proceed
across the country to Chickeeles river, descend that river to its mouth,
and make a survey of Gray's Harbour. The party, besides Lieu-
tenant Johnson, was to consist of Passed Midshipman Eld, Mr.
Brackenridge, Sergeant Stearns, three sailors, and two Indian guides.
I had understood that the proposed route was practicable, although
difficult and somewhat dangerous.

On the 17th, in the morning, we were prepared to sail; but the party
of which Lieutenant Johnson was to take charge was not ready, that
officer at the last moment declining to obey the orders, (on account of
my directing the officer associated with him, Passed Midshipman Eld,
to be consulted as to the propriety of abandoning public property,
should it become necessary,) caused his arrest. These orders have
been inserted in Appendix XIV., that all may be able to judge of their
tenor. Passed Midshipman Eld was then ordered to take charge of
the party, and Passed Midshipman Colvocoressis to accompany him.

We had already taken leave of Mr. Anderson and Captain M'Niel,
and I have here to acknowledge the obligations we were under to
them for many attentions, and particularly for the facilities they

(477)

478 D E FUCA'S STRAITS AND

afforded us in the equipment of the land-parties, and the hospitalities
they extended to both officers and crew.

The breeze sprung up at two o'clock, when the anchor was hove
up and sail made. The change in the organization of the land-party
delayed us for a short time, but the gentlemen whom I had appointed
to it were ready in a few minutes, and left the ship, upon which we
immediately bore away to the Narrows.

It is no more than justice to Messrs. Eld and Colvocoressis, to ac-
knowledge the promptness and good spirit with which they undertook
the duty thus unexpectedly assigned them, and I take the same occa-
sion to state that the manner in which they performed their task, and
overcame the many difficulties which impeded its execution, merit my
warmest thanks.

It would be difficult to give the reader an idea of the anxieties that
beset me at this juncture. Day after day had passed in the anxious
expectation of receiving news of the Peacock and Flying-Fish, until
a conviction became general, with both officers and crew, that some
serious accident had occurred to one or both of them, among the dan-
gerous coral reefs and islands they had been sent to explore. They
were now three months later than the time appointed for their arrival
at the Columbia river.

For my own part, after reviewing the whole of the duties assigned
to Captain Hudson in my instructions, and again estimating the time
necessary to fulfil them, I could not but apprehend, from the length to
which his voyage was protracted, that disaster had occurred. In this
state of feeling, the officers of the Vincennes showed a highly com-
mendable spirit, and aware that additional labours were thus to be
thrown upon them, strained every nerve to avoid any further loss of
time. The officers of the Porpoise, as I was informed by Lieutenant-
Commandant Ringgold, manifested an equally praiseworthy spirit.

With the aid of both wind and tide, we succeeded in getting through
the pass at the Narrows before dark, and when this was effected, I
anchored under Vashon's Island for the night.

The next day we made but little progress, owing to light winds, and
a strong tide against us.

On the 19th, we anchored off Port Lawrence, and near the entrance
to Hood's Canal, and on the 20th came to anchor in New Dungeness
Roads, which I had assigned for a rendezvous with the Porpoise,
which vessel joined us on the same day.

I shall now revert for a short time to the surveying operations, per-
formed under instructions embraced in my orders of the llth of May,
which will be found in Appendix XI.

LOSS OF THE PEACOCK. 479

On the 15th of May, the Porpoise left Nisqually, and anchored the
first night near the point where the surveys were to begin, but outside
of the Narrows.

The first bay at the bottom of Admiralty Sound was termed Com-
mencement Bay. Into this, the Puyallup, a small river, which, it will
be recollected, was passed by Lieutenant Johnson, ten or twelve miles
from Nisqually, falls. Commencement Bay affords anchorage, and a
supply of wood and water may be obtained. The Puyallup forms a
delta, and none of the branches into which it is divided are large
enough for the entrance of a boat. The Indians were at this season of
the year to be found on almost all the points, and were the same filthy
creatures that have been before described.

The Porpoise was engaged until the 20th in surveying Admiralty
Sound to the end of Vashon's Island, and on the afternoon of that day
anchored in the Port Orchard of Vancouver.

Port Orchard is one of the most beautiful of the many fine harbours
on these inland waters, and is perfectly protected from the winds.
The only danger is a reef of rocks, which is nearly in the middle of
the entrance. The sheet of water is very extensive, and is surrounded
by a large growth of trees, with here and there a small prairie covered
by a verdant greensward, and with its honeysuckles and roses just in
bloom, resembling a well-kept lawn. The soil is superior to that of
most places around the sound, and is capable of yielding almost any
kind of production. The woods seemed alive with squirrels, while
tracks on the shore and through the forest showed that the larger class
of animals also were in the habit of frequenting them.

The next nine days were employed in surveying Port Orchard,
which consists of two inner and an outer harbours. The former,
although the entrance is by a strait not more than two hundred yards
wide, is from two to six miles in width, and extends for a distance of
fifteen miles. The water was found deep enough for the largest class
of vessels, with a bold shore and good anchorage. Lieutenant-Com-
mandant Ringgold made a set of magnetic observations here.

Near the anchorage were seen three canoes, propped on trees, con-
taining the bodies of Indians. These were visited by Dr. Holmes,
who procured a Flathead skull. The bodies were found wrapped
firmly in matting, beneath which was a white blanket, closely fastened
round the body, and under this a covering of blue cotton. Near by,
on stages, were boxes about three feet square, supposed to contain the
articles which are deposited by the Indians near the bodies of the
dead, and which were not disturbed.

480 DE FUCA'S STRAITS AND

Many Indians, who were all cheerful and well disposed, visited the
port during the continuance of the survey.

Port Orchard was found to communicate, on the north, with Port
Madison, which we had surveyed on our way up the sound. Lieu-
tenant Maury, with the boats, surveyed this passage, and found that it
had a depth of four and a half fathoms water at low tide.

Near this passage is a place where the Roman Catholic missionaries
have established a station for teaching the surrounding tribes. A
large cross is erected, and a building one hundred and seventy-two
feet long by seventy-two wide, which was found to contain many rude
images. Many of the natives are capable of saying their prayers
and telling their beads, and some were met with who could sing some
Catholic hymns in their own language.

The Indians frequenting this port called themselves of the Je-ach-tac
tribe.

On the 31st, the same meteor that was observed by the other sur-
veying parties was seen. Its first appearance was at an altitude of
sixty degrees. Its course was not directly downward, but zigzag, and
it disappeared at an elevation of twenty degrees. Its track continued
luminous for half an hour, and gradually changed its shape, becoming
wider and less elongated. There was no explosion heard by any of
the parties.

The next point visited and surveyed was Penn's Cove, between
Whidby's Island and the main. This island contains many small
villages, and appears to be more thickly peopled than other parts of
the sound. It is in possession of the Sachet tribe, who have here a
permanent settlement, consisting of large and well-built lodges of
timber and planks, similar to those already described on the Columbia
and elsewhere. The chief possessed a chest of valuables, carefully
preserved in a corner, the contents of which were shown by him with
no small pride, and consisted of a long roll of paper, on which were
many representations of European houses and churches, together with
rude sketches of the heavenly bodies, and a map of America. These
had been given to him and explained by the Roman Catholic priest,
and he seemed to understand the explanation. This whole tribe are
Catholics, and have much affection and reverence for their instructers.

The priests of the Catholic mission made half-yearly visits, bap-
tizing and leaving tokens among these Indians, and have done much
good in promoting a good feeling among them. They were con-
structing a large building for a church, near which was erected a
large cross.

LOSS OF THE PEACOCK. 48]

Besides inculcating good morals and peace, the priests are inducing
the Indians to cultivate the soil, and there was an enclosure of some
three or four acres, in which potatoes and beans were growing. The
Indians were also cultivating large quantities of potatoes, in a soil
fertile and capable of producing every thing. Wild flowers were in
abundance, and with strawberry-vines covered the whole surface.
The fruit of the latter was large and of fine flavour.

The Sachet tribe are obliged to provide for their defence against
the more northern tribes, by whom they are frequently attacked, for
the purpose of carrying them off as slaves. For protection against
these attacks they have large enclosures, four hundred feet long, and
capable of containing many families, which are constructed of pickets
made of thick planks, about thirty feet high. The pickets are firmly
fixed into the ground, the spaces between them being only sufficient to
point a musket through. The appearance of one of these enclosures is
formidable, and they may be termed impregnable to any Indian force :
for, in the opinion of the officers, it would have required artillery to
make a breach in them. The interior of the enclosure is divided into
lodges, and has all the aspect of a fortress.

Upon the whole, the tribe inhabiting Penn's Cove are more advanced
than any others in civilization.

The only spring found here was one of a mineral character, forming
a deposition on every thing around.
On the main, there is much good land.

Near the harbour of Port Gardner, a fine stream empties itself into
Possession Sound, by four mouths. The water was not found to be
sufficiently deep in any of these to admit boats at low water, in conse-
quence of a bar or flat extending across the mouths.

Here they were surrounded by many canoes, containing Indians
from the various tribes to the southward, whom they had before seen.
The dress of the Sachet does not vary much from that of the other
tribes, and generally consists of a single blanket, fastened with a
wooden pin around the neck and shoulders. Those who are not able
to purchase blankets wear leathern hunting-shirts, fringed in part with
beads or shells, and very few are seen with leggins. The women orna-
ment themselves with small brass bells, or other trinkets. The cartilage
of the nose is also perforated, and pieces of polished bone or wood
passed through it. Although the dress of these natives would seem to
offer some concealment to the body, few are seen that wear it with any
kind of decency. Their persons are usually very filthy, and they may
be said to be at all times coated with dirt. They are fond of wearing
brass rings on their wrists and fingers, and a few are seen to be tattooed
VOL. iv. 20. 61

482 DE FUCA'S STRAITS AND

•who have some lines upon the arms and face. They disfigure their
bodies by the manner in which they daub themselves with red ochre,
mixed with salmon-oil, which, besides being disgusting in appearance,
is extremely so in smell.

Dr. Holmes, of the Porpoise, had an opportunity of examining some
of their maladies. Pulmonary complaints are very common, and occa-
sion great suffering. The diseases most often met with are bronchitis,
and tubercular consumption. Rheumatic affections are also of frequent
occurrence. Their treatment does not differ materially from that of
the tribes in the interior, already described in speaking of their medi-
cine-men. Cures are sometimes attempted by making use of hot and
cold bathing in every case, and without discrimination. Dr. Holmes
saw an old man in the last stage of consumption, shivering from the
effects of a cold bath at the temperature of 40° Fahrenheit. A favourite
remedy in pulmonary consumption is to tie a rope tightly around the
thorax, so as to force the diaphragm to perform respiration without the
aid of the thoracic muscles.

Intermittents are also common, from which they suffer much. Hot
baths are invariably used for this disease, after which the patient
plunges immediately into cold water, where he remains until chilled.
A thorough shampooing then succeeds, and a few howls and incanta-
tions complete the treatment.

Notwithstanding they hold their medicine-men in great repute, both
the patients and their friends were very grateful for any aid rendered
by Dr. Holmes, and readily took every thing offered them.

The brig moved, on the 18th June, to the northern outlet of Posses-
sion Sound, through Deception Passage. This was not believed by
Vancouver to afford a passage for vessels ; but, although narrow, it is
feasible for those of small size. The tides rush with velocity through
it, and there are some rocks in the passage. The Indians had moved
from their village to temporary huts on the beach, where they seemed
to enjoy themselves.

Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, being informed by the Indians
that a passage existed to the north into Bellingham Bay, boats were
sent to explore it. The information proved to be correct; but the
water was so shoal, that it is, at lowest point, almost a mud-flat; and
the channel, besides, is tortuous. This duty being completed, the Por-
poise, on the 26th, was moved through the passage, and anchored
under one of the small isles at the entrance.

The Indians from various parts of Admiralty Inlet, were constantly
around the brig, endeavouring to derive some advantage in the way
of trade. They were found to occupy various points, each tribe

LOSS OF THE PEACOCK. 483

keeping distinct. Their names were, the Scocomish, Suquamish,
Clalams, and Sachets, who live in harmony with each other, although
they do not scruple to call one another " peshac," or bad ; but this
epithet is invariably given to those of a different tribe by all the
Oregon Indians. The term, however, is applied with greater force to
the more northern tribes, who frequently undertake incursions on
them, in strong marauding parties, for the purpose of obtaining slaves :
they are, in consequence, held in great dread. During the stay of the
brig, an alarm occurred, which produced much consternation among
them. Many sought shelter in the woods; others went off to their
strongholds, and some women sought shelter alongside the brig in their
canoes.

These Indians suffer little inconvenience in their changes of resi-
dence; for, having but few chattels, they can remove at a few moments'
notice; and after landing at an entirely strange place, they are at home
the moment their fires are lighted.

The 4th of July was spent near Point Roberts ; and on the 5th, the
brig reached the mouth of Eraser's river, which is about a mile wide,
with a serpentine channel, leading through an extensive mud-flat.
Fort Langley, of the Hudson Bay Company, is situated about twenty
miles from the mouth. The country immediately around is low, and
has a rich alluvial soil. It is inhabited by the Nanitch tribe, who
accompanied the brig thither from Birch Bay. The mouth of Fraser's
river was found to be six miles north of latitude 49° N.

Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, on the 20th, received further
instructions from me to push the survey to the north ; but being short
of bread, he had sent Passed Midshipman Sandford to obtain a supply,
which was at once despatched in the launch, although I expected to
meet the brig at New Dungeness in a few days.

On the 20th, as before mentioned, the brig joined the Vincennes at
New Dungeness.

I had been in hopes that, after the severe tour of surveying duty for
the last three months, I should be able to give the crews some relaxa-
tion ; but I found this impossible, for the duties were necessarily much
increased by the absence of the Peacock and Flying-Fish, and the
necessity of finishing as much of the northern survey as possible, as
well as obtaining accurate information in relation to the positions, &c.
I deemed it of too much importance to allow a day to go by unimproved.
Orders were therefore given to the boats under Lieutenant Case to
proceed to Port Townsend, to fill up the surveys and connect them
with Hood's Canal and those of Whidbv's Island.

484 DE FUCA'S STRAITS AND

Another division of boats, with those of the Porpoise, were employed
in surveying New Dungeness Bay, and connecting it with Protection
Island, while I was occupied in getting a series of observations for
latitude and longitude, dip and intensity, at the low sand point which
forms the bay. Orders were also prepared for the Porpoise to proceed
to Port Tovvnsend ; thence to Eraser's river, visiting Fort Langley ;
and then through Johnson's Straits, and round the north end of Van-
couver's Island, to Nootka Sound.

A large boat expedition was also fitted out, of which I took charge
in person, to proceed across the Straits of De Fuca, to complete the
survey of the Canal de Arro, with the adjacent bays and harbours, and
thence to the mouth of Fraser's river, where I anticipated falling in
with the Porpoise again.

On the morning of the 25th, the brig parted company, and in the
afternoon I set out, with seven boats, to cross the strait. The wind
had been blowing strong, but I did not anticipate much sea or danger.
It proved otherwise, however, for the tide was found to be running
strong ebb against the wind, producing a very high sea, which made
the passage at times perilous. We, however, crossed this distance of
twenty miles without any other accident than the loss of a mast be-
longing to one of the boats, and reached the opposite shore in safety,
though completely wet from the quantity of water we had shipped.
The boats all behaved uncommonly well ; and many, who had believed
them unsafe, were now satisfied that they were admirably adapted for
all weathers. Large fires and dry clothes soon restored the men to
their wonted good spirits.

On the 26th, we began the survey of this labyrinth of islands, which
was continued the next day, 27th, on the afternoon of which I was
joined by Passed Midshipman May, with letters from the ship and
despatches from Nisqually, informing me of the loss of the Peacock,
on the bar of the Columbia, but that all hands were saved. This news,
although bad, wras a great relief to me ; for I had feared not only the
loss of the vessels, but had serious apprehensions for the lives of the
persons on board. A heavy load that had long hung over my mind
was removed.

All my plans for the employment of the squadron were now at once
to be changed ; for it became necessary for me to proceed without
delay to afford relief to our shipwrecked companions. I therefore
immediately sent orders to the Porpoise, countermanding her previous
instructions, and ordering her to repair forthwith to join the Vincennes
at New Dungeness. On the 28th, the duties of our surveys were again

LOSS OF THE PEACOCK. 485

resumed, and a finish made of those of the Canal de Arro. This was
effected through the strenuous exertions of both officers and men, ana
the same night we reached the Vincennes.

Although we had completed all that was essential for the naviga-
tion of the Canal de Arro, I regretted that I had been deprived of the
opportunity of examining the southeast end of Vancouver Island,
which I have reason to believe offers many fine harbours. Three
days more would have enabled me to accomplish this portion to my
satisfaction.

On the 29th, the brig again joined us, and Mr. T. W. Waldron
was at once sent with despatches to Nisqually, to pass across the
country to the Cowlitz, and thence down the Columbia to Astoria.
Among the despatches was an order to all the ward-room officers of
the Peacock, to report to me in writing the circumstances that led to
the loss of that ship. These will be found published in Document
No. 427, House of Representatives, 28th Congress, 1st Session, dated
10th April, 1844.

On the 31st, towards noon, the wind and tide permitting, we got
under way, and stood down the Straits of De Fuca ; but, owing to the
light winds, we made little progress. Of the northern side of these
straits it had been my intention to make a very particular examination,
after completing the survey of the Canal de Arro. I have understood
that there is a fine harbour near the eastern end of the island, where a
post has been lately established by the Hudson Bay Company ; that
of San Juan, near the mouth of the straits, the Porpoise was ordered
to survey on the 2d of August, while the Vincennes was engaged
in the survey of Neah Harbour, lying on the south side of the straits,
just within Cape Flattery. Port San Juan was found to afford little
shelter, being exposed to the southwest winds, and the heavy swell
of the ocean ; and is reported as being unsafe, except for temporary
anchorage.

Neah Harbour is but a small indentation in the coast, which is partly
sheltered on the northeast by Neah Island. It is the position where
the Spaniards attempted to establish themselves in 1972, and which
they called Port Nunez Gaona. The remains of an old fort are still to
be perceived, and some bricks were found that were supposed to have
belonged to it. Water is to be obtained here in some quantity, and
a small vessel would have no difficulty in getting enough. It offers a
tolerably safe anchorage, though somewhat exposed to the northwest
gales ; yet by anchoring well in, which a small vessel may do, protec-
tion even from these gales might be had.

On the night of the 2d, we had an eclipse of the moon.

2Q2

486

DE FUCA'S STRAITS AND

The ship, on anchoring, was surrounded by many canoes of the
Classet Indians, who inhabit the country around Cape Flattery. They
were well disposed to trade, and were greatly surprised that so large
a ship should want no furs, which were of several kinds: the sea-otter
was that most prized, and held at very exorbitant prices, more than
they could be bought for in the United States. George, the chief of
the Tatoucne tribe, as he terms himself, was on board all day. He
speaks a few words of English, and is a fine-looking man. It was
difficult to make him or any of his people understand the use of a man-
of-war, the number of people on board, and the care that was taken
to keep them from coming on board. He showed it by continually
asking, "What for so big ship?" "What for so many mans?" — all
probably proceeding from his disappointment in not being able to sell
his skins. I succeeded in getting his likeness with the camera lucida,
with which he was much pleased ; and although at first silent, and
apparently surly, he finally became quite talkative.

TATOUCHE CHIKF.

On my remarking a scar on the bridge of his nose, and others in the
tribe who had the same mark, he told me it was the custom with them
to cut the nose when they had taken a whale, which they considered a
great exploit. The fishing season is in August and September. Their
mode of capturing a whale is with buoys, made of seal-skin, which are
blown up after the fashion of bladders, and form a large oblong float :
these are four feet long, by eighteen inches or two feet in diameter,
and are attached by a rope to the harpoon or spear, which is thrown
at the whale, and becoming fastened to him, prevents his diving down
to any great depth ; after having a number of these attached to him, he

LOSS OF THE PEACOCK. 487

is unable to quit the surface, and is finally captured. All those whose
seal-skins are attached, now divide the booty : those who are entitled
to a share are easily known, for each float has a different pattern
painted upon it. The number of whales taken is reported at about
twenty during the season, and a quantity of oil is obtained from them
by the Cadborough, a schooner belonging to the Hudson Bay Company
in exchange for articles of little value.

The Classet tribe of Indians is one of the most numerous on the coast
that I had an opportunity of seeing, and seems the most intelligent.
These Indians wore small pieces of an iridescent mussel-shell, attached
to the cartilage of their nose, which was, in some, of the size of a ten
cents piece, and triangular in shape. It is generally kept in motion by
their breathing. They had seldom any clothing excepting a blanket;
but a few who have contrived to make friends with the visitors, have
obtained some old clothes : while others seem to be in the pay of the
Hudson Bay Company. The principal articles of trade are tobacco,
powder (" paulalee"), and leaden balls. These are preferred to most
other merchandise, although more can be obtained for spirits than for
any other article. This shows very conclusively, to my rnind, the sort
of trade that was carried on when the Boston ships entered into rivalry
with the Northwest Company for the purchase of furs.

At the period of our visit, the Classet were at peace with the other
tribe.

I deem this a good position for a missionary, for these Indians appear
to be quite ignorant of any religious notions. I was informed, while at
Vancouver, by one of the Catholic priests, that it was their intention
to make a visit to them the next year, for the purpose of establishing
their religion among them.

On the 3d, we were engaged in the survey of the harbour, besides
obtaining fifteen hundred gallons of water. Its position (the north point
of Neah Island) was found to be in latitude 48° 24' 40" N., longitude
124° 36' 46" W. ; variation 21° 08' 14" easterly.

We had as many as forty canoes alongside on the 3d, with various
articles for sale, including fish, venison, &c. Some of the canoes had
as many as twenty persons in them. They were generally a stout,
athletic race ; and it was observed that the women were much better
looking than those of the other tribes. Some of them, indeed, had quite
fair complexions and rosy cheeks. They are not as much exposed to
the weather as those we had previously seen, being provided with a
conical hut, made of grass, and plaited so tight as to be impervious to
water, which both protects them from the rain and sun.

It is said that this tribe can muster one thousand warriors, and they

488 DE FUCA'S STRAITS AND

have the reputation of being treacherous and warlike. Many of them
were fantastically painted, that is, besmeared with oil, soot, and red
paint. Their dress consists of a native blanket, made of dog's hair
interspersed with feathers : this is much more highly valued than the
bought ones, but is rarely to be obtained. The clamour made by our
numerous visitors alongside was very great, and their offers of articles
were without much regard to the priority of rank, station, or any thing
else.

The practice of flattening the head is prevalent here, but perhaps not
so universal as among the other tribes we have seen. George, or King
George, invited me to visit him at Tatouche, his village, about half a
mile nearer to Cape Flattery than the place where the ship lay; but I
had no time to spare. He informed me they had fifty lodges, made of
planks, similar to those already described. His tribe live principally
upon fish, of which they catch large quantities ; and when a whale is
taken, they literally gorge themselves with the blubber.

It was reported to me, late in the afternoon, that a ball had been fired
at some of the sailors engaged in surveying ; but it did not do any
damage, striking the beach some little distance from them. I did not
think it worth while to make any inquiry or disturbance about this
matter, and only mention the fact to caution those who may hereafter
visit this port that it is necessary to be upon their guard.

At 2 p. M. we got under way, with the Porpoise in company, and
succeeded in making an offing before the fog enveloped us. These
fogs are one of the greatest annoyances to vessels arriving on this
coast ; for, in fine weather, they are experienced almost daily, coming
up with the sea-breeze, continuing throughout the night, and until the
sun has sufficient power the next day to dissipate them.

In leaving De Fuca's Straits I anxiously watched for De Fuca's
Pillar, and soon obtained a sketch of it, which is represented in the
wood-cut at the end of this chapter.

During the night of the 3d, we lost sight of the Porpoise, and the
return-signal to our guns soon became inaudible. The only guide one
has on this coast during the fogs, is the lead ; and vessels drifting into
less water than fifteen fathoms, sjiould anchor until they obtain a wind
to carry them off.

The weather continued cold and chilly, with light rain; and \\-c
passed down the coast in eighty and ninety fathoms water. The
soundings varied from rock, gravel, and sand, to a soft unctuous mud,
of a deep-blue colour.

The morning of the 5th August, the Porpoise was discovered astern,
which relieved me from any apprehension of detention.

LOSS OF THE PEACOCK. 489

The soundings were somewhat peculiar ; for it was found that in
our progress down the coast, they increased almost regularly until
ninety fathoms was reached ; but, a short distance beyond that depth,
and at about fifteen miles from the coast, the bank suddenly fell off,
and no bottom was to be obtained with a line of two hundred and two
hundred and fifty fathoms long.

On the 6th, at daylight, Cape Disappointment was in sight ; and at
ten o'clock we were near the cape. The whale-ship Orozimbo, was
off at the same time, the crew of which was much affected with the
scurvy : I therefore sent to her medical assistance. The Flying-Fish
joined us at noon ; when Captain Hudson came on board, and from
him I learned the particulars of the loss of the Peacock.

It will be necessary in the first place to state, that at Oahu, Sand-
wich Islands, previous to the departure of the squadron on their
several cruises, I had furnished the Peacock, Porpoise, and tender, with
directions for their passing the bar, which I obtained from Captain
Spalding, of the ship Lausanne, a vessel of five or six hundred tons
burden, which had just returned from the Columbia river, whither she
had taken a number of missionaries and their stores. These appeared
to be carefully drawn up, and Captain Spalding informed me that they
could be depended upon. The fact that so large a ship had been navi-
gated by them, and the report of the master that he believed them
correct, left me no reason to doubt their probable accuracy ; although
at the time I had some misgivings about them, as they were entirely
dependent on compass bearings, and those of objects at great distances.
They were, however, the only directions for passing this dangerous
bar which were to be had, and were then believed to be the only
correct ones in existence. It was supposed, indeed, that they had
been communicated to the Hudson Bay Company by the officers of
H. B. M. surveying vessels Sulphur and Starling ; but of this I had
no positive evidence ; for, although I met those vessels at the Feejee
Islands, I received no communication from them on this subject.

The Peacock made Cape Disappointment on the afternoon of the
17th of July, and throughout the night experienced light airs and
calms, accompanied by a dense fog.

On the morning of the 18th, between seven and eight o'clock, the
fog cleared off, with the wind from the southward and eastward.
Cape Disappointment was then about nine miles distant. At nine
they sounded in forty fathoms water; at ten, fifteen: they had but
fourteen fathoms when they tacked off shore. It being Sunday, Captain
Hudson, as usual, performed divine service, which being finished at

VOL. iv. 62

490 DE FUCA'S STRAITS AND

llh 50m, they again tacked to stand in. The tender at this time was
several miles to leeward.

At meridian, the wind came out from the southward and westward,
with the weather a little cloudy ; soon after which time the ship was
off the entrance, and all hands were called to work her into port.
Lieutenant Emmons was now sent aloft, on the foretopsail-yard, while
Captain Hudson attended personally to the piloting of the ship, agree-
ably to the directions before spoken of, which he held in his hand.
The ship was, according to Captain Hudson's report, running a north-
east-quarter-east course, heading for Cape Disappointment, until the
proper bearing of Chinook Point east-northeast was reached, when
they discovered the sea breaking ahead of them. He now believed
himself too far to the southward, wore ship, and ran off a short dis-
tance, until clear of the breakers, after which they again stood in,
where the passage appeared clear and smooth, both from below and
aloft. In less than five minutes, the ship touched. Lieutenant Emmons,
who was on the look-out aloft, together with Lieutenant Perry, who
also was similarly engaged, both state that they were of opinion that
the only place where the channel existed was where the water did not
break, and agreeing as it did so nearly with the sailing directions,
Captain Hudson did not hesitate to attempt to proceed through the
smoother part.

I am well aware that many opinions have been, and probably still
are entertained, relative to the prudence of venturing with the ship
before the channel had been explored and examined by the tender and
boats. This is but natural to one unacquainted with the bar of the
Columbia river and its dangers. After having paid much attention to
this subject, and having been engaged there with the tender and boats
in the survey, I feel myself entitled to give an opinion as to the course
pursued by Captain Hudson, and think it altogether correct, on every
ground of expediency, as well as the only proper one for him to have
followed under these circumstances. It will be recollected that he
had been detained nearly three months beyond his appointed time, and
that he was well aware that this would occasion much inconvenience
to the progress of our duties ; his anxiety to prevent any farther delay,
even of a few hours, can readily be imagined. The time was, to all
appearance, propitious, and hesitation then might have rendered it
impossible to have entered for a week. The tender going in ahead
would have been little or no security, for she would, undoubtedly, have
pursued the same course, and have been, in all probability, lost ; and
thus the Peacock would have been obliged at last to trust to the know-

491

ledge of those on board of her. As respects the examination of the
bar in boats, this is a thing next to impossible; for the tides are so
strong as to be beyond the power of oars to contend with. To wait
until a thorough knowledge could be had of the bar from survey,
would have been equally impossible at that time : all were uninformed,
or incapable of judging of the accuracy of the directions; but, so far
as appearances went, they seemed to be true, and they are such as I
should even now give, so far as compass bearings are concerned.
But there is one difficulty that will ever exist in passing over the bar,
and this, nothing but an intimate acquaintance with the locality will
remove. I allude to the cross-tides, which are changing every half-
hour. These tides are at times so rapid, that it is impossible to steer
a ship by her compass, or maintain her position ; and no sailing direc-
tions can possibly embrace the various effects produced by them upon
a vessel. A singular fact in illustration of this remark is, that the
safest time to cross the bar is when both the tide and wind are ad-
verse; and this is the only port, within my knowledge, where this is
the case. Captain Hudson, in venturing the attempt to enter the
Columbia, manifested the strongest desire to accomplish his orders and
forward the objects of the Expedition. Disregarding the well-known
perils of the navigation, he did not hesitate, when in his judgment the
time was propitious, to incur the dangers of the bar, rather than subject
the service to a further delay, which might have proved as disastrous
to the Expedition as the loss of the vessel.

There are no pilots for the entrance of the Columbia river, or rather,
none that could be relied upon. Neither old Ramsey nor George
deserve the name, nor were there any other persons known, who had
any pretensions to be considered as pilots.

Having set this matter at rest, I shall proceed to give the details of
the loss of the Peacock.

On the ship striking, the helm was immediately put a-lee, and every
practicable effort was made to bring her by the wind, and haul off.
These efforts were not successful, and the ship, which hung by the
keel, began to thump heavily. Every sea forced her further upon the
shoal, and as she had now become completely unmanageable, the sails
were furled. The stream cable and anchor were got ready, and the
first cutter was hoisted out. Lieutenant Emmons was sent to sound
around the ship in various directions, in one of the waist boats.

At this time, the wind having veered to the northward and west-
ward, was freshening ; the air was hazy and a fog was forming ;* the

* During the summer, this wind, haze, and fog occur almost every day in the afternoon.

492 DE FUCA'S STRAITS AND

ebb tide had begun to run strong, and meeting, not only the ocean
waves, but an opposing wind, in a short time formed breakers which
completely enveloped the ship. These breakers soon stove in the first
cutter, and rendered her useless. Such was the fury of the sea, that
it was with great difficulty Lieutenant Emmons reached the ship, and
the boat was secured.

With every sea the ship lifted and struck heavily, and much solici-
tude was therefore felt lest it should be impracticable to get the launch
afloat ; but no boat could have lived alongside of the vessel for more
than a few moments.

The lighter spars were now sent down, and the pumps were rigged ;
every exertion was made to save the masts and lower yards, by which
the launch might be hoisted out as soon as the sea would permit it.

Captain Hudson, rinding that the ship was leaking badly, ordered
the watches in gangs to the pumps, which were thenceforward kept in
action until the vessel was abandoned. Every possible exertion was
made to bring the ship's head to the sea, but without much effect, for
the rudder was soon disabled in consequence of the iron tiller being
broken off. The rudder was thus left to thresh about with such vio-
lence as to threaten to tear away the stern-frame.

At last, by heaving the shot overboard, and starting the water, the
ship was so much lightened that, by means of the larboard anchor,
which had been cast free of the ship, she was hove round with her
head to the sea. At low water, which occurred about dark, there
was only nine feet depth of water alongside. At 8h 45m the chain-
cable parted, the ship was again thrown broadside to the sea, and
began again to strike heavily.

At llh 30m it was high water; at 1 p. M. the sea was rapidly in-
creasing ; and at 2 A. M., the breakers were making a continued breach
over the vessel, by which the bulwarks were stove in, and the spar-
deck flooded. The water was knee-deep on the gun-deck, and the
shot-lockers were buried in it. The night passed heavily, with little
hope of the ship's holding together till morning. At last the day
dawned, and with the coming light, and at the extreme fall of the tide,
the sea providentially abated.

At six o'clock in the morning, a large canoe boarded the vessel,
manned by a crew of Chinook Indians, and having on board old
Ramsey, the pilot, with a coloured boy belonging to the Vincennes, of
the name of John Dean. The latter, who had been left by me wuh
Mr. Waldron at Astoria, had persuaded Ramsey and the Indians to
come off, for the purpose of rendering assistance. The launch and
boats were also hoisted out, a few provisions put in them, and a part

LOSS OF THE PEACOCK. 493

of the men and officers embarked, with as little delay as possible, and
just as they stood, for fear of overloading the boats, and thus causing
the loss of all. In these, Lieutenant Perry, with Purser Spieden, the
sick, the naturalists, and the charts, books, and ship's papers, were
sent off, to be landed in Baker's Bay. The boats landed all not neces-
sary to row them, in safety ; and succeeded in making a second trip,
in which all who had remained on board were taken to the shore,
except Captain Hudson, Lieutenant Walker, the boatswain, the car-
penter, and about thirty men.

Towards noon, the breakers again increased ; and the sea was
making a breach in all directions over the ship, which was filling
fast, the water having risen above the level of the berth-deck. The
masts were cut away, and the vessel lay a complete wreck, with
nothing standing but the stump of the mizzen-mast.

Lieutenant Emmons, who had charge of the boats, was, during this
time, using every possible exertion to make a third trip, but without
success ; and the crews of the boats were the anxious witnesses of the
condition of the ship, without being able to relieve those on board
from their perilous situation. They persevered, however, in their
fruitless and laborious endeavours, until one of the boats, in charge of
Mr. Lewis, the gunner, was thrown end over end, and with her crew
engulfed. Lieutenant De Haven was fortunately close at hand, and
succeeded in saving those on board ; all of whom were injured, and
one of them severely, by the breaking of his hip-bone.

The intense excitement, both of those in the vessel and in the boats
at this moment, may be readily imagined. The accident was seen
from the ship : Captain Hudson was satisfied that any immediate
attempt to relieve him and his companions must be fruitless; and
that the only chance that remained, was to preserve the boats for a
future occasion.

He therefore ordered the ensign to be hoisted on the stump of the
mizzen-mast, as a signal for the boats to return to the land; which
was obeyed by them, although with the feeling that they were aban-
doning their commander and those with him to their fate. Those on
board, on the other hand, were released from their anxiety for the
boats, on which alone they could depend for being relieved, if the
wreck should remain together for a few hours. Of this, however, the
prospect was far from promising, amid the struggle between the waters
of the great river and those of the mighty ocean, when every surge
seemed to forebode the utter dissolution of the fabric of the ship.

The light articles were now removed to the spar-deck, to give them

2R

494 DE FUCA'S STRAITS AND

a chance of reaching the shore by the action of the waves and winds,
should the ship go to pieces.

In the midst of this trying scene, the ordinary routine of ship's
duty was carried on, even to the piping to dinner. It is needless for
me to say any thing in praise of the conduct of Captain Hudson, and
I have simply to refer to the letters I received from the officers and
naturalists, in reply to a call I made upon them, for the aspect in
which the transactions presented themselves to those present; and
more particularly to those of the latter gentlemen, who, as spectators,
had an opportunity of witnessing the whole proceedings.

By three o'clock, Lieutenant Emmons, with the boats, was again
approaching the ship ; but the sea was still too rough to venture near
her, and it was not till five o'clock that he succeeded in getting along-
side, when the remaining men were distributed among the boats, and
embarked in good order, Captain Hudson being the last to leave the
ship. After a pull of two miles, they landed in Baker's Bay, when
Captain Hudson was received by the other officers and men with three
hearty cheers, the spontaneous expression of their admiration and
gratitude for the courage and conduct he had exhibited in his efforts
for the preservation of the ship, and in finally preserving the lives
of all.

The exertions of the officers and men were not yet at an end ; for
some faint hopes were entertained that a portion of the property
might still be saved from the wreck, as a relief in their state of utter
destitution ; and, in consequence, the boats were despatched the next
morning at daybreak to the bar. But nothing was there to be seen
of the Peacock, except the cap of her bowsprit ; for her upper deck
had been separated, and the pieces scattered for many miles along
the coast.

Captain Hudson passed the highest encomiums on his officers and
crew, for the faithful manner in which they continued to perform their
duties and carry out his orders to the very last.

I am satisfied that every thing that seamanship could devise to
save the vessel, was resorted to ; and I am quite confident that when
the facts are all known and fully weighed by the community, the
conduct of Captain Hudson, and that of his officers and crew, in this
perilous and trying scene, will be considered as redounding to the
credit of the service.

Mr. Birnie, the agent of the Hudson Bay Company at Astoria,
Messrs. Frost and Koen, the missionaries, with several residents,
came promptly to the aid of the shipwrecked crew, with provisions,

LOSSOFTHEPEACOCK. 495

tents, cooking utensils, and clothing, all vying with each other in
affording assistance.

When all hopes of getting any thing from the wreck were at an
end, Captain Hudson sent the crew to Astoria, in the boats, with
orders to form an encampment there, where they found an ample
supply of provisions in the stores that had been sent from the Sand-
wich Islands, in the Wave, and were supplied with clothing by the
kindness of Dr. M'Laughlin and the officers of the Hudson Bay
Company.

As soon as I learned the exact state of affairs in the river, I deter-
mined to make such disposition of the squadron as would be most
advantageous, in the performance, under the new circumstances, of
the duties which remained to be accomplished.

With this intent, I resolved to shift my pennant to the Porpoise,
and with that vessel, the Flying-Fish, and the boats of the Peacock,
to survey the Columbia to its extreme navigable point. This force
would be amply sufficient to perform this survey in the shortest
possible time, and yet enable me to despatch a party, as I had before
intended, through the southern section of the Oregon Territory to
San Francisco. The Vincennes, to which I ordered Lieutenant-
Commandant Ringgold, I resolved to send to San Francisco, to make
a survey of the Sacramento river, while I was engaged upon that of
the Columbia.

In conformity with this plan, I directed the Vincennes to lie off
and on at the mouth of the river, while I proceeded in with the
Porpoise to make the necessary changes and transfers. Taking Mr.
Knox, and Ramsey the pilot, on board the latter vessel, we passed
the bar and stood towards Astoria, but were compelled by the tide
to anchor before reaching that place. On the morning of the 7th,
we anchored in front of Astoria, where all the necessary arrange-
ments were completed ; and Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, on
the next day, proceeded in the Flying-Fish, with the transferred
officers, to join the Vincennes. As soon as this was effected, that
vessel bore away for San Francisco, and the tender returned to the
river.

As it became absolutely necessary to economize our time as much
as possible, every disposition was now made of the men and boats. I
soon, however, found that, although I had sent a number of men to
the Vincennes, there would be many that could not be well accom-
modated in the smaller vessel, and I was desirous of procuring some
extra accommodation. Fortunately, the American brig, the Thomas
H. Perkins, Captain Varney, was lying at Astoria ; and a reasonable

496

DE FUCA'S STRAITS.

agreement was entered into for her purchase. Dr. M'Laughlin, who
had entered into a charter party, readily agreed to surrender it for a
small consideration, if the goods he had on board were delivered at
Vancouver. This there was no difficulty in, as it was found neces-
sary to make some alterations in her accommodations, and it would
be necessary to resort to Vancouver for many articles; and these
repairs could be easily effected during the time we were engaged in
the survey of the river, and better at Vancouver than elsewhere. It
was, therefore, determined to proceed up with both vessels, at the time
of making the survey.

It is now proper that I should return to the regular order of events,
and take up the narration of the interesting cruise of the Peacock,
the unforeseen and disastrous termination of which has just been
related.

DE FUCA'S PILLAR.

APPENDIX

CONTENTS.

I. LAPLACE'S MANIFESTO 501

H. MR. BRINSMADE'S LETTER AND THE KING'S ANSWER 503

III. CEREMONIES ON THE FOUNDING OF HE1AUS 506

IV. MEMORIAL FROM THE CREW RELATIVE TO SWEENY 508

V. COPY OF MARINE ENLISTMENT AND ORDERS RELATIVE TO COURT-MARTIAL. 509

VI. ORDERS TO SCIENTIFIC CORPS 512

VII. ORDERS TO PORPOISE 515

VIII. ORDERS TO PEACOCK 517

IX. PAPERS RELATIVE TO ADAMS, PILOT 520

X. LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S ORDERS 522

XI. ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT-COMMANDANT RINGGOLD AND LIEUTENANT CASE. 522

XII. ORDERS FOR LAND EXPEDITION 528

XIII. METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER AT LAPWAI 531

XIV. ORDERS ADDRESSED TO LIEUTENANT R. E. JOHNSON, BUT AFTERWARDS

TRANSFERRED TO PASSED MIDSHIPMAN ELD 534

XV. CONTRACT WHICH THE SERVANTS OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY ENTER

INTO 53G

APPENDIX.

i.

LAPLACE S MANIFESTO.

His Majesty, the King of the French, having commanded me to
come to Honolulu, in order to put an end, either by force or per-
suasion, to the ill-treatment to which the French have been victims at
the Sandwich Islands, I hasten, first, to employ this last means as the
most conformable to the political, noble, and liberal system pursued by
France against the powerless ; hoping, thereby, that I shall make the
principal chiefs of these islands understand how fatal the conduct which
they pursue towards her, will be to their interests, and perhaps cause
disasters to them and their country, should they be obstinate in their
perseverance. Misled by perfidious counsellors ; deceived by the ex-
cessive indulgence which the French government has extended towards
them for several years, they are undoubtedly ignorant how potent it is,
and that in the world there is not a power capable of preventing it
from punishing its enemies ; otherwise they would have endeavoured
to merit its favour, or, not to incur its displeasure, as they have done
in ill-treating the French. They would have faithfully put into execu-
tion the treaties, in place of violating them as soon as the fear disap-
peared, as well as the ships of war which had caused it, whereby bad
intentions had been constrained. In fine, they will comprehend, that
to persecute the Catholic religion, to tarnish it with the name of
idolatry, and to expel, under this absurd pretext, the French from this
archipelago, was to offer an insult to France, and to its sovereign.

It is, without doubt, the formal intention of France that the King
of the Sandwich Islands be powerful, independent of every foreign

502 APPENDIX.

power which he considers his ally ; but she also demands that he con-
form to the usages of civilized nations. Now, among the latter, there
is not even one which does not permit within its territory the free
toleration of all religions ; and yet, at the Sandwich Islands, the
French are not allowed publicly the exercise of theirs, while Protest-
ants enjoy therein the most extensive privileges: for these, all favours;
for those, the most cruel persecutions. Such a state of affairs being
contrary to the laws of nations, insulting to those of Catholics, can
no longer be endured, and I am sent to put an end to it. Consequently,
I demand in the name of my government,

1st. That the Catholic worship be declared free throughout all the
dominions subject to the King of the Sandwich Islands; that the
members of this religious faith shall enjoy in them all the privileges
granted to Protestants.

2d. That a site for a Catholic church be given by the government,
at Honolulu, a port frequented by the French, and that this church
be ministered by priests of their nation.

3d. That all Catholics, imprisoned on account of religion since the
last persecutions extended to the French missionaries, be immediately
set at liberty.

4th. That the King of the Sandwich Islands deposit in the hands of
the captain of 1'Artemise, the sum of twenty thousand dollars, as a
guarantee of his future conduct towards France, which sum the
government will restore to him when it shall consider the accompany-
ing treaty will be faithfully complied with.

5th. That the treaty signed by the King of the Sandwich Islands,
as well as the sum above mentioned, be conveyed on board the frigate
1'Artemise by one of the principal chiefs of the country ; and also,
that the batteries of Honolulu do salute the French flag with twenty-
one guns, which will be returned by the frigate.

These are the equitable conditions, at the price of which the King
of the Sandwich Islands shall conserve friendship with France. I am
induced to hope, that, understanding better how necessary it is for the
prosperity of his people, and the preservation of his power, he will
remain in peace with the whole world, and hasten to subscribe to
them, and thus imitate the laudable example which the Queen of
Tahiti has given, in permitting the free toleration of the Catholic
religion in her dominions; but if, contrary to my expectation, it should
be otherwise, and the King and Principal Chiefs of the Sand\virn
Islands, led on by bad counsellors, refuse to sign the treaty which I
present, war will immediately commence, and the devastations, all the
calamities which may be the unhappy but necessary results, will be

APPENDIX. 503

imputed to themselves alone, and they must also pay the losses which
the aggrieved foreigners, in these circumstances, shall have a right to
reclaim.

(Signed) C. LAPLACE,
Captain of the French frigate 1'Artemise.
The 10th July (9th according to date here), 1839.

II.

THE UNITED STATES CONSUL TO THE KING.

U. S. Consulate, Sandwich Islands,

October 26th, 1839.
To His MAJESTY, KAMEHAMEHA III.,

King of the Sandwich Islands.

As the opinion seems to be to some extent entertained, that Ame-
rican citizens residing in the Sandwich Islands as missionaries, under
the patronage of an incorporated institution of the United States, have
exerted a controlling influence upon the framers of the laws of this
country, I have very respectfully to inquire, if they have ever had any
voice in the passage of laws affecting the interests of other foreigners,
and particularly, whether they have ever had any thing to do in the
measures adopted by your government for the prevention of the intro-
duction of the Catholic religion into the country. And whether in the
treatment which has been shown to any subject of the government of
France, they have directly or indirectly recommended the course pur-
sued by your government, and also whether in the attempts made
under your authority to suppress the public exercise of the Roman
Catholic religion on the part of your own subjects, they have coun-
tenanced those attempts. If they have in any of these respects con-
trolled the action of your government, will you be pleased to inform
me very explicitly in what manner and to what extent. An early
reply will be a favour.

With the highest consideration,
I have the honour to be

Your Majesty's most obedient servant,
P. A. BRINSMADE,

U. S. Commercial Agent.

504 APPENDIX.

THE KING TO THE UNITED STATES CONSUL.

[ Translation. ]

Kauwila House, present residence of the

King of Hawaii, October 28th, 1839.

MY respects to you, the American Consul, —

I have received your letter asking questions respecting the American
missionaries, supposed by some to regulate the acts of my government
under me ; I, together with the chiefs under me, now clearly declare
to you, that we do not see any thing in which your questions are appli-
cable to the American missionaries. From the time the missionaries
first arrived, they have asked liberty to dwell in these islands. Com-
municating instructions in letters, and delivering the word of God has
been their business.

They were hesitatingly permitted to remain by the chiefs of that
time, because they were said to be about to take away the country.
We exercised forbearance, however, and protected all the missionaries,
and as they frequently arrived in this country, we permitted them to
remain in this kingdom because they asked it, and when we saw the
excellence of their labours, then some of the chiefs and people turned
to them in order to be instructed in letters, for those things were in our
opinion really true.

When the priests of the Romish religion landed at these islands, they
did not first make known to us their desire to dwell on the islands, and
also their business. There was not a clear understanding with this
company of priests as there was with that; because they landed in
the country secretly, without Kaahumanu's hearing any thing about
their remaining here.

When the number of the followers of the Romish religion became
considerable, certain captains of whale-ships told Kaahumanu of the

evil of this way, and thus Captain D informed me of a great

destruction in Britain in ancient time, and that his ancestors died in
that slaughter, and he thought a like would soon be done here. That
was the company who informed us of the evil of the Romish religion,
and also a certain French man-of-war, and a certain British man-of-
war, approved of what we did.

Inasmuch as I do not know of the American missionaries having
had any thing to do in my business with my chiefs, I have therefore
inquired of them, the chiefs, and they say, no, in the same manner as
1 now say, no, to you.

APPENDIX. 505

Some of them, however, have told me of having known certain
things done by certain missionaries, viz., what Mr. Bingham said to
Kaahumanu, " I have seen some people made to serve at hard labour
on account of their having worshipped according to the Romish reli-
gion. Whose thought is that ?" Kaahumanu said to him, " Mine."
Then he that spake to her objected quickly, saying, " It is not proper
for you to do thus, for you have no law that will apply." When he
said that, then Kaahumanu immediately replied to him with great
strength, " The law respecting idolatry ; for their worship is like that
\vhich we have forsaken." Mr. Clark, also, and Mr. Chamberlain,
spoke to Kinau while Kaahumanu was yet alive, and objected to said
conduct, and afterward Dr. Judd. And at a certain time, Mr. Bing-
ham and Mr. Bishop disputed strongly with Kinau on account of the
wrong of punishing those of the Romish religion.

And now in Kekauluohi's time, Mr. Richards disputed strongly with
Kekuanaoa, urging the entire abolition of that thing, and that kindness
should be bestowed on them, that they might be pleased, giving them
also an instructor to teach them the right way ; and thus also he said
to Kekauluohi and to me.

And afterward, when Mr. Bingham heard by Mr. Hooper that
certain women were confined in irons at the fort, he went immediately
and made known to Kekuanaoa the wickedness of their confinement
for that thing, and when Kekuanaoa heard it, he immediately sent a
man, and afterward went himself to the fort, to set the prisoners free,
for their confinement was not by order of the chiefs.

Should it be said by accusers that the American missionaries are the
authors of one law of the kingdom, the law respecting the sale of rum,
or if not, that they have urged it strongly, I would say, a number of
captains of whale-ships commenced that thing, thousands of my own
people supported them, and when my chiefs saw that it was a good
thing, they requested me to do according to the petition of that company ;
and when I saw that it was really an excellent thing, then I chose that
as a rule of my kingdom.

But that thing which you speak to me of, that they act with us, or
overrule our acts, we deny it ; it is not so.

We think that perhaps these are their real crimes :

Their teaching us knowledge. Their living with us, and sometimes
translating between us and foreigners. Their not taking the sword into
their hand, and saying to us with power, stop, punish not the worshippers
in the Romish religion.

But, to stand at variance with, and to confine that company, they

VOL. IV. 28 64

506 APPENDIX.

have never spoken like that since the time of Kaahurnanu I. down to
the time that the Romish priest was confined on board the Europa.

I think, perhaps, those things are not clear to you; it would perhaps
be proper, therefore, that the American missionaries should be examined
before you and Commodore Read, and us also.

Thus I have written you, with respect,

(Signed) KAMEHAMEHA III.

III.

CEREMONIES ON FOUNDING HEIAUS.

THE following ceremony was performed at the building of the heiau,
or temple of Kohala, in Hawaii, by Kamehameha. Immediately after-
wards the king departed, in order to effect the conquest of Oahu.

On the 27th (Kane) of January (Kaulua), the ceremony began.

On the 28th, a calabash of red ochre was mixed.

On the 29th, the priest, leaning on a spear, repeats prayers and begs
lands.

On the 30th, palm-leaves are spread on the roof of the house in the
heiau. On the first day of the month (Nana), the people are placed in
eight rows, when prayers and benedictions are offered, together with a
sacrifice of pigs and fruit. Then the priest of Nukuokea appears, and
asks of the king an offering of three fowls to bake at night ; one for the
king, one for the priest, and one for the god.

On the second day, they go to the mountains in search of the okea
idol, when a man was killed : at the time of the cutting down the okea
tree the priest prayed for land, and the sacrifice was offered, with a
hog and tapas, and the image carved ; the direction in which the tree
fell, land was sought for, and the people on it were stripped of all they
had and killed ; when the company returned home bearing the image
and singing, "Kuamu, Kuawa, wa — Kuawuwa lauakila la Uwa." After
prayers, the priests each take a fowl, the chief two, and two are given
to the god Kaili : these are eaten by them, the god's by his keeper, after
\vhich they went to sleep. If it rained during the night, it was con-
sidered a good omen.

On the third day, at an early hour, the people came with materials
for building a house during the day. After the frame is set up, the
people are placed in rows, and prayers are said. The idols were then
carried in procession, prayers said, and they were placed around. The
priest and chief exchange their wreaths of okea flowers, at which time

APPENDIX. 507

the people made sixteen exclamations; the people then eat, and finish
the house afterwards, which is done with much ceremony. In the
evening the high-priest arrived with three fowls ; one for the god, an-
other for the king, and a third for himself. If rain fell during the night,
they would conquer their enemies.

On the fourth day, before it was light, the "Aha" and "Kaili" prayers
were said, at which time the priest brands the land that they are to
conquer. After this, the chief brings a hog, holding his snout, when
the priest again prays to the idol ; the chief, repeating his " Amama,"
(invocation) killed the hog. The priest cautiously asks the chief if he
heard any noise, or voice of a mouse, dog, or bird : if none, it was a
good omen. Then the chief and priest advance towards the people,
the former wearing a feather cloak, while the latter was naked, who
demanded of the people if they heard any noise ; and being answered
in the negative, the priest then said the god had declared they should
eat of the fruit of the land of their enemies. At night nine hogs are
offered.

The fifth day opens with prayer. The king or chief gives forty
hogs for each end of the temple. In the evening, the idol they had
hewn out of the tree was brought down to the temple, and placed in
front of the steps of the heiau. A large hole was then dug, and a
man sacrificed and placed in it; on this the idol is put, and the earth
thrown in around it : the multitude now retire. The priest now de-
manded of the king three fowls — one for the god, another for the king,
and the third for himself. The god's is devoured by his keeper, while
the king and priest feast on theirs, when they all go to sleep, under the
impression that some omen will occur. If rain, with thunder and
lightning, ensue, the omen is very favourable.

Just before dawn, the feather god, Kaili, with a hog, is taken to the
new idol, where, on a signal being given, the king kills the hog with a
single blow ; the priest strikes a few blows on the drum, which was
the signal that the ceremony was finished. After this the taboo was
removed, when children might cry, the cocks crow, and crickets chirp,
without danger ; then all the priests assemble within the heiau, and
prayed in concert till daylight, at which time the king makes the
" Amama."

On the sixth day, the king presented a hog to each god, frequently
to the number of forty, and two to each priest, two of which were
placed in front of the new idol, with cocoa-nuts and bananas, where
they are left to putrefy. The king and priest then retired to the
"Nule-Pahu," where they prayed. At nightfall, one of the priests

508 APPENDIX.

went out in search of a fish called " olua," which is represented as a
fathom in length; if this fish could not be found, a man, who had
broken the taboo, was hooked in the mouth, killed, and dragged to the
altar; if the observance of the taboo had been very strict, and none
was found delinquent, a squirrel was substituted, and was offered to
the idol in like manner. If a man was sacrificed, the king took hold
of one of the feet of both the hog and man, and thus presented them
to the god, saying, " Here is my offering to you ; let me live ; let me
have .the country I desire to conquer." They then all retire and feast.
A chief, called the " Turtle," then came forward, and prayed with
uplifted hands. If any one offended by making a noise, he was in-
stantly killed. The women afterwards brought their tax of tapa,
which is put into the fifth house in the heiau.

On the seventh day, they all bathed; after which they were all
clothed in new maros from the tapas; they then sat down in rows,
placing themselves in various attitudes, with the hands raised up or
placed on their shoulders, and each was obliged to remain in the same
attitude until the ceremony of prayer was concluded. Afterwards
eighty hogs were distributed among the people. They then repeat the
" Aha" and the " Kaili," the prayers before spoken of; and the
favourite wife of the king then came with a hog and fine mat, which
she offered, with prayers and the " Amama," and requested that she
might live and be preserved by the king.

On the eighth day, the whole ceremony was finished, all the taboo
removed, and a general council of the chiefs held, as to the mode of
carrying on the war, when they went to conquer the land they had
sacrificed and prayed for. After the wars were ended, heiaus for
peace and the prosperity of the kingdom were built, to insure fertility
and plenty to the land.

IV.

[ Copy. ]

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

October 31st, 1840.
CHARLES WILKES, ESQ.,

Respected Sir — We, the undersigned, petty officers, seamen, ordi-
nary seamen, &c., belonging to this ship, beg leave to request the par-
ticular favour, that after Peter Sweeny is punished, that he may be
discharged from this ship and the Expedition. His conduct during
the time he has been shipped, warrants us in saying, he is no sailor,

APPENDIX.

509

and a very dangerous man in any ship. If he is in debt to the ship,
we are willing to pay the same.

Yours, very respectfully,

John Black,
William Richmond,
John Hannon,
H. Turner,
E. P. Southworth,
Henry Batchelor,
Archer Brown,
John Heno,
Joseph G. Clark,
Francis Montserat,
John Kelburn,
Joseph Lemont,
Edward Hubbard,
Charles Knowles,
William Gillen,
Francis Joseph,
James Graham,

Thomas Wilson,
William Roberts,
Henry Taber,
John Thompson,
John Brown,
Lewis Harron,
William Flide,
Thomas Sinclair,
John Vankleeck,
John Cooper,
John Wilson,
John Mattox,
William S. Longley,
John Brooks,
Thomas Ford,
George Sharrock,
James H. Gibson,

John Roach,
John Shafford,
Sheldon Benedict,
William Eastwood,
James Green,
Elijah King,
George Elliott,
William Kubb,
Stephen Fosdick,
Daniel Whitehorn,
William M'Donald,
Garret Cole,
John Dunnock,
George Trebble,
William Clark,
Samuel Williams,
William Roberson.

Navy Department,

December 1st, 1843.

I hereby certify, that the annexed is a true copy from the original,
on file in this Department.

(Signed) A. THOMAS SMITH,

Chief Clerk.

V.

COPY OF THE ENLISTMENT OF THE MARINES.

WE the subscribers, non-commissioned officers and privates of
marines, do and each of us doth hereby agree to and with Thomas
Ap Catesby Jones, Captain of the United States Navy, in manner and
form following, that is to say : In the first place, we do hereby agree,
for the consideration hereafter mentioned, to enter into the South Sea
Surveying and Exploring Service of the United States, and in due
and seasonable time to repair on board such armed vessel or vessels
as may be ordered on that service, and to the utmost of our power and
ability respectively to discharge our several services or duties, and in

282

510 APPENDIX.

every thing to be conformable and obedient to the several requirings
and lawful commands of the naval officers who may from time to
time be placed over us.

Secondly. We do also oblige and subject ourselves to serve during
the term of the cruise, and we do severally oblige ourselves by these
articles to comply with and be subject to such rules and discipline of
the Navy of the United States, as are or that may be established by
the Congress of the United States.

Thirdly. The said Thomas Ap Catesby Jones, for and in behalf of
the United States, doth hereby covenant and agree to and with the
said non-commissioned officers and privates of the marines who have
hereunto signed their names, and each of them shall be paid in con-
sideration of such services, the amount per month which, in the column
hereunto annexed, is set opposite to each of their names respectively,
and likewise to advance to each and every of them, three months'
bounty, the receipt whereof they do hereby acknowledge, and that
they shall be punctually discharged at the expiration of the term of
their enlistment, or as soon thereafter as each vessel of the Expedition
shall return to a port of safety in the United States.

The foregoing is a true copy of the terms of agreement entered into
between Captain Thomas Ap Catesby Jones and certain non-commis-
sioned officers and privates of marines, of the late Exploring Service
of the United States ; the signatures of whom are witnessed by com-
missioned officers, either of the Navy or Marine Corps : the original
of which agreement is on file in the office of the Fourth Auditor of
the Treasury Department.

(Signed) JOHN ETHERIDGE,

Clerk.

January 9th, 1843.

GENERAL ORDER.

THE undersigned, commander-in-chief of the United States Explor-
ing Squadron, in promulgating the sentences of the court-martial, in
the cases of Ward, Riley, and Sweeny, takes the opportunity to revert
to the causes that have brought about the crimes with which they are
charged, and of which they have been found guilty.

The intemperate use of intoxicating liquors appears by the evidence
to have had a strong influence in inciting the convicted rnen to the
commission of their offences; and the commander takes this public
opportunity to express his abhorrence of the practice, and to state that

APPENDIX. 511

in his opinion nothing can justify it, nor any act done in a moment of
intoxication palliate the offence which is alike disgraceful to the indi-
vidual, the navy, and the country.

He trusts that the examples now before the squadron will have a
tendency to prevent the commission of like crimes, and will have an
effect to induce those who witness the punishment to be inflicted, for
offences committed while under the influence of intoxicating spirits, to
refrain from the excessive use of them for the future.

In consequence of the long confinement of Ward, his sentence is
hereby mitigated to thirty-six lashes, to be inflicted as I shall hereafter
direct, agreeably to the sentence of the court.

The case of Riley is viewed by the commander-in-chief as extremely
aggravated, he having violated the laws for the government of the
navy by quarrelling and getting drunk; but the commander likewise
considers his long confinement and the manner in which he obtained
the spirits as some reason why the whole extent of the punishment
should not be awarded. He therefore so far mitigates his punishment,
that he shall receive but fifty lashes ; and that part of the sentence
dismissing him from the service, is hereby remitted.

In noticing this case, the commander-in-chief has felt some surprise
at several circumstances which were brought to light in the course of
the testimony; and regrets that he feels compelled to exercise authority,
reposed in him by the government, on an officer who is every way
capable of doing his duty well and faithfully.

The circumstances alluded to above have reference to the conduct
of Acting-Master's Mate, A. M. Cisney, of the United States ship
Peacock, for violating the rules and regulations by giving the crew
grog. His appointment is hereby annulled, and he is ordered to be
dismissed from the naval service of the United States.

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Honolulu, October 28th, 1840.

GENERAL ORDER.

THE naval court-martial now in session, having sentenced Michael
Ward, John Riley, and Peter Sweeny, and the sentences having been
approved by me, except so far as they are mitigated in the two first
cases, will be carried into effect in the following manner.

Michael Ward will be punished with one dozen lashes on his bare
back with the cat-o'-nine-tails, alongside each of the three vessels of
the squadron now in port.

512 APPENDIX.

John Riley will receive sixteen lashes alongside of each of the
vessels of the squadron now in port, in like manner with Michael
Ward.

Peter Sweeny will be punished with eight lashes alongside of each
of the vessels of the squadron now in port, in like manner with Ward
and Riley.

The launch of the Vincennes will be rigged with a platform and
gallows, and a guard of marines, with a boatswain and three mates, to
guard the prisoners and inflict the punishment.

The crews of the vessels will be dressed, and their rigging and sides
manned, at 10 A. M. on Friday, at which time the punishment will be
inflicted.

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Harbour of Honolulu,

October 28th, 1840.

VI.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Harbour of Honolulu,

October 13th, 1840.
GENTLEMEN, —

Acting-Master Knox will land you at Koloa, on the south side of the
island of Kauai, where you will obtain conveyances and proceed to
traverse the island in the following directions, viz. : you will divide
yourselves in three parties, and pursue the following routes.

The first party, to take the eastern shore round to the north as far
as Halelea, following the courses of rivers, &c., and ascertaining their
extent.

The second will proceed directly across the island, and join the
others at Halelea.

The third party will proceed round the west side, in like manner,
following the rivers and streams, and rendezvousing at the same place.

A sympiesometer is furnished, to be used in measuring heights, by
the party that crosses the centre of the island. Full reports will be
made to me on your return.

Five days are allowed you for the excursion on Kauai, at the end
of which time you will join the Flying-Fish at Halelea.

On your return here, Mr. Knox has orders to land you on the
western side of this island, at Waialoa, near Waimea Bay, the resi-
dence of Mr. Emerson ; this will place you in a position to pursue the
researches on this island to advantage.

APPENDIX. 513

The first party will take the southern route ; the second, the middle ;
and the third, the northern, returning to this place as soon as circum-
stances will admit.

It is believed that the like number of days on this island will be
amply sufficient.

Your researches and inquiries will be directed principally to botany,
geology, zoology, mineralogy, natural resources, cultivation, produc-
tions, late improvements, condition of the natives, supplies, facilities
for obtaining them, &e.

I am, respectfully,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
To MESSRS. PICKERING, DANA, PEALE,
RICH, AGATE, and BRACKENRIDGE.
Scientific Corps.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

October 25th, 1840.
SIR, —

You will receive Messrs Pickering, Dana, Peale, Rich, Agate, and
Brackenridge on board, and proceed to thu harbour of Koloa, on the
southeast side of the island of Kauai, where you will land those gen-
tlemen, and continue round the island to the westward, looking into
and examining carefully, all harbours, bays, and inlets. The harbour
of Waineha, and Waimea Bay, especially deserve a careful and
thorough examination. At Waimea Bay, you will communicate with
the Rev. Mr. Whitney from whom you will be able to derive valuable
information relative to the object of your search. An introductory
note is herewith enclosed.

Your examination will extend to Halelea, where the scientific gen-
tlemen will join you, in five days from the time they are landed.

You will then take them to Waimea Bay on the eastern side of
Oahu, from whence you will despatch a native messenger to me, with
information of your arrival, and proceed along the north coast to
Koolau Bay, which you will examine with care; and if you receive
no orders from me, proceed direct to Honolulu.

In fourteen days you will be able to carry out these instructions, and
return to this anchorage.

I am, respectfully,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
ACTING-MASTER SAMUEL KNOX,

Tender Flying-Fish.
VOL. iv. 65

514 APPENDIX.

U. S. Ship Vincenncs,

Harbour of Honolulu,

November 10th, 1840.
SlK,—

You will receive on board Messrs. Peale, Rich, and Dana, of the
scientific corps, and Mr. Hall and servant, of this place, and proceed
to the port of Kaleakeakua, island of Hawaii, where you will land the
above gentlemen, and thence proceed to the examination of a reef said
to exist off the southwest end of Kahoolawe, and locate it with the land,
carefully ascertaining its latitude and longitude.

From thence you will return to Hawaii, to Hilo in Byron's Bay ;
where you will await the arrival of these gentlemen.

Ten days are allowed them to rejoin you, from the time of their
landing ; after which you will make all haste to return to this harbour :
your return will be expected on the 28th or 29th, beyond which time
you must not delay.

During your stay in Byron's Bay, you will make a sketch of it.

I am, respectfully,

CHARLES WTLKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
ACTING-MASTER S. KNOX,

Tender Flying-Fish.

P. S. You will furnish the gentlemen bread for their excursion.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Harbour of Honolulu,

November 10th, 1840.
GENTLEMEN, —

You will proceed in the Flying-Fish to Hawaii, where you will be
landed in Kaleakeakua Bay. From thence you will proceed across the
island. Messrs. Peale and Rich, with Mr. Hall, will take the route by
the ancient temples, to the north of Mauna Loa, passing by the craters
of Kilauea, and thence to Hilo. Ten days are given you to reach Hilo.

Mr. Dana, with Midshipman Hudson, will follow the line of coast as
far as Apua, thence trace the eruption to the volcano, making exami-
nations and sketches in his route.

Ten days are given him to reach Hilo.

You will obtain as many Kanakas as are required to carry the
burdens, whom you will reward for their labours, which expenses wil1
be refunded on your return, on producing necessary vouchers. Mr.
Knox will furnish you with the provisions you may require to take with
you.

APPENDIX. 515

Mr. Peale will make sketches, and take measurements of the ancient
temples, and also the compass bearings.

Full reports of your proceedings will be expected on your return.

I am, respectfully,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
MESSRS. PEALE, RICH, and DANA,
Scientific Corps.

P. S. I enclose a tracing of the island, on which the route of Messrs.
Peale and Rich is designated by the red line, and that of Mr. Dana by
the blue.

CHARLES WILKES.

VII.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Harbour of Honolulu,

November 14th, 1840.
SIR,—

1st. You will proceed to the southward, holding your wind closely,
until you reach the Paumotu Group.

2d. Search for a small island in longitude about 146° 30' W., (to
the westward of Peacock Island), and latitude 14° 30' S.

3d. Pass by Raraka, search for, and survey three small islands and
reefs, said to exist between Tanea, Saken, and Phillips Isles.

4th. Thence to the eastward, to look for two islands said to exist
between latitude 15° 05' S., and 16° 35' S., and longitude 141° W.

5th. Thence to the southward, to search for the group of islands
said to exist in latitude 20° 15' S., and 21° 35' S., and longitude 142°
to 143° W.

6th. Take up your party on the island that have been left to bore the
coral rock, and proceed thence to Tahiti, to fill up with water and
wood ; and examine the surveys made of the harbour of Papieti, &c.,
connecting that of Matavai with Papoa.

The charts are sent to you.

After three days' stay, you will proceed in a northwest direction, to
the islands of Penrhyn and Flint : survey these, and proceed thence to
those called the Isles of Danger. After exploring this ground, you
will return to this island, falling in with some supposed islands and
reefs under the line, in longitude 160° W. ; sighting Palmyra's and
other islands, if you will not be delayed thereby, and passing about a
degree to the westward of the position assigned to the Manuel

516 APPENDIX.

Rodriguez Shoal, in longitude 155° W., where it is supposed to exist,
and examine and survey it.

If you should obtain any information of islands or shoals, laying in
or near your track, you may make a deviation ; but as soon as you
have completed your search, you will resume the course pointed out
to you, which must be strictly adhered to, as any deviation therefrom
may interfere with the track of the rest of the squadron, and cause a
waste of time.

In making search for land, you will draw circles of your visual
horizon, and be particular not to omit examining the space carefully.

You may select such an island as may seem to you most advanta-
geous to use the boring apparatus ; landing thereon a party under a
careful officer, (Lieutenant Johnson,) whom you will specially instruct
in its use, carefully preserving the borings for every foot in depth, in
boxes properly marked ; the armourer and forge will of necessity
accompany the party.

You will be particular in giving Lieutenant Johnson instructions
relative to the preservation of the health of the party, taking every
precaution not to come in collision with the natives, if any should
be on the island; and equally cautious to guard against surprise or
treachery on the part of the natives.

You will take care to furnish the party with ample supplies.

The General Order in relation to intercourse with the natives, will
be observed during your cruise as heretofore.

Tides will be carefully observed by the shore-party hourly.

You will obtain the transverse sections of at least three of the coral
islands (the one on which the boring apparatus is used being one of
them), with the level and soundings, inside and out, on all the points
of the island where it is possible to obtain them, in connexion with an
accurate survey of the same.

On your arrival at Matavai, you will be very particular in obtain-
ing sights (equal altitudes) for your chronometers, and also on all the
islands you may discover or survey.

You will also try the dip and intensity, both at sea and on shore,
whenever practicable.

Between thirty and forty days is deemed ample time to secure the
success of the boring experiment, which it is recommended should be
continued throughout the twenty-four hours, which may easily be
effected by a proper division of the force employed.

I do not designate any particular island on which the boring experi-
ment is to be made : this must depend upon how you fall in with the
Paumotu Group. I would have you select one at as early a period as

APPENDIX. 517

possible, and after seeing the apparatus in operation, to continue your
cruise, taking up your work in the order I have intimated in the first
part of these orders.

The taking up of the party being the last duty previous to going to
Tahiti, you will be able to complete the survey of the island on which
the party is landed during the time the preparations are making.

During your passage through the group, you will be particular in
observing the transit-bearings, whether of islands or points.

Your return will be expected off this harbour by the 15th March,
where you will await me or orders, beyond which time you must not
delay ; and from the liberal calculations I have made, you will be
enabled easily to execute this duty in the time specified.

You will as usual endeavour to gather all the information that may
lay in your power, relative to currents, winds, &c. ; making collec-
tions of specimens, &c.

I am aware you have many difficulties to encounter in the execution
of the duties assigned you ; but I feel confident, that your exertions
will enable you to overcome them.

You will make observations for dip, intensity, and variation, and
obtain sights for your chronometers at Point Venus.

The rate of your chronometers is herewith enclosed. Wishing you
a pleasant cruise, I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
LIEUT. COM. C. RINGGOLD,

TJ. S. Brig Porpoise.

VIII.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Oahu, December 1st, 1840.
SIR, —

You will proceed from this port with the Peacock and Flying-Fish,
(which vessel is placed under your command for the coming cruise,)
and follow the instructions herein pointed out.

1st. You will steer for the equator, so as to fall in with it in about
160° W. About this position, or rather between the line and latitude
1° 30' S., an island is supposed to exist called Broke, on which you
will make the magnetic observations for both dip and intensity, making
a survey of it at the same time, placing a bottle and a flag-staff on its
lee side, with information for me of your proceedings. Thence you

will steer to the westward, keeping as nearly on the line of the mag-
ax

518 APPENDIX.

netic equator as you can, (it is approximately marked on your chart,)
making daily dip and intensity observations as far as 172° W. ; about
which position you will fall in with the Phcenix Group, consisting of
several small islands, some of which I have already examined and
placed them on your chart. The most northern one I have seen, is
Enderbury's, with a few bushes on it, in latitude 3° 08' S., longitude
171° 08' 30" W. To the northward of this lies one or two, said to.
have extensive reefs around them. You will explore the sea hereabouts,
from longitude 172° 30' to 170° 30' W., and from the line to latitude
5° S. By beginning from the northward and working to the south-
ward, you will be enabled to fall in with all the islands in succession.
The currents are at times strong to the eastward, and therefore it will
be necessary for you to keep your station during the night.

I wish you to ascertain particularly the existence of Phcenix Island:
some are inclined to believe it one and the same with Birnie's, in the
same latitude, and about thirty miles to the westward. Also sight
Sydney Island ; on the chart, Hull's Island is about forty-five miles to
the westward of it: night prevented me from seeing it. After you
have satisfied yourself of having thoroughly explored this little group,
you will proceed to the southward, passing near to Fletcher's Island,
and those of the Duke of York, and Clarence, which you will survey,
land upon, and have communication with the natives, for they are
said to be inhabited. Thence southward, to the island of Gente Her-
mosas of Quiros, said to exist to the westward of its situation on the
charts of Arrowsmith ; examine both localities (that of the charts and
to the westward of it) well, for an island certainly exists thereabouts ;
and from thence to Apia, Upolu, of which island you will make a
careful survey, and also of its harbours, particularly those of its south
side, viz.: that of Falialili and Sanapu, and of any others, having the
latitude carefully observed there, and longitude by chronometer, as
also the sea-soundings, for there are soundings a long distance off
shore.

There is also a harbour at the east end of Savaii, which has
escaped the brig : I wish this examined. Mr. Mills, the missionary,
and Mr. Cunningham, will be able to give you some information re-
specting it.

After you have completed your duties at Upolu, you will proceed
to Savaii, and anchor in the harbour of Mataata, which harbour you
will particularly survey. A copy of the sketch made by the Porpoise
is hereby furnished you. Do not delay here more than three days, as
it may be found an unsafe harbour at this season, being open to the
north. Thence proceed to the westward, to Ellice's Group, which

APPENDIX. 519

you will carefully examine, and note particularly the currents, and if
there are any harbours there, supplies, &c. Next proceed to the De
Peyster Group, which joins them, and likewise examine them fully.
There are a few islands off to the westward, said to have been seen:
jf chance offers, you will sight them. Thence to the Kingsmill Group,
which you will explore. The charts of Duperrey are furnished you,
likewise a manuscript chart of the Carolines, &c. You will follow
the trend of the islands, keeping your position at night, and following
up your surveys to the northward as far as the Pescadores, which
group you will examine and survey. Many new islands will be fallen
in with hereabouts.

Thence to Strong's Island and Ascension. At the two latter, re-
freshments can be had in abundance. It is desirable that you should
follow out this group as far as longitude 150° E., and then return by
the Pescadores, which will afford you an opportunity of picking up
any islands you may have missed in your track eastward. From the
Pescadores, you will proceed towards the north, along the range of
islands, Gaspar Rico, &c., for the Columbia river, where your arrival
will be looked for from the 15th of April to the 1st of May: it must
not be later than the latter date. You will enter the river, and anchor
in Baker's Bay, should you not hear from me prior to that time, where
you will await my arrival.

During your cruise, you will be particular in observing the dip,
intensity, and variation, daily, if possible, either at sea or on shore,
and trying the currents as often as possible, measuring the meridian
distances between place and place, or island and island, by your
chronometers, and observing equal and circummeridian altitudes for
latitude. The harbour of Apia is in longitude 171° 41' 09-12" W.
You will measure its meridian distance from this port in longitude
157° 50' 12" W., latitude 21° 19' N.

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Expiring Expedition.

CAPTAIN WM. L. HUDSON,

U. S. Ship Peacock.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,
Harbour of Honolulu, December 1st, 1840.
SIR,—

On your arrival at Upolu, you will endeavour again to capture the
chief Opotuno ; and you will also obtain ample justice for the late
murder of an American seamen on that island. The papers relating

520 APPENDIX.

to him are herewith furnished for your guidance. Your endeavours
must be to impress them with the belief that they cannot commit these
acts with impunity.

It is impossible to point out the mode by which you may most
readily succeed in these views ; but it is believed, that the capture of
the principal chiefs would readily obtain the persons who have com-
mitted this crime, and, I doubt not, Opotuno himself.

Hostile steps are to be avoided as much as possible ; and it is desi-
rable that this service should be performed without risking the lives of
those under your command.

On Strong's Island there are very many rascals, who are continu-
ally plundering unarmed vessels. Any measures you may be able to
pursue to rid our commerce and whale-fishery from this evil, will be
sanctioned by me.

I enclose you the journal of Captain Dowsett, of the schooner Vic-
toria, who was some time since left on the Pescadores. The accompa-
nying letters will give you all the information extant about them and
the schooner Waverley, sent on a shelling voyage, and believed now,
from information received, to be lying at Strong's Island. Any informa-
tion relative to her actual fate, or that of her crew, and that of Captains
Dowsett, Scott, and Cathcart, will be satisfactory to their friends.

Guns were fired on the American schooner Honduras, at Strong's
Island, supposed by foreigners. You will investigate this matter, and
spike any guns that may be in the hands of foreigners. The natives
are said to be very friendly.

It is generally supposed that the vessel was cut off by a set of des-
peradoes, who are now on Strong's Island, and who are a pest to every
vessel touching there. You will adopt such measures as the case may
seem to you to warrant. I need not say to you that it is desirable that
all and every kind of information respecting this group will be looked

for. I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,

CAPTAIN WM. L. HUDSON, Commanding Exploring Expedition.

U. S. Ship Peacock.

IX.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, December 7th, 1840.
To His MAJESTY KAMEHAMEHA III.,

King of the Sandwich Islands.

I have the honour to inform your Majesty, that, desiring to leave
the port of Honolulu on the 3d of December, and having notified the

APPENDIX. 521

pilot Adams that he was required to pilot this ship to sea, (which
pilotage the consul had paid in advance,) he came on board in the
morning, (the wind being fair,) remained a short time, and left, refusing
to pilot the ship to sea.

During his stay on board, at which time I was absent on shore, he
behaved in a manner totally unworthy of one who holds such an
employment under your Majesty, until my first-lieutenant checked him;
and I was obliged to act as my own pilot.

It was the opinion of my officers, that he was under the influence of
liquor, and unable to do his duty.

Frequent complaints have been made to me, that vessels were
detained in port in consequence of his being drunk and not able to do
his duty.

I have now to request of your Majesty, that you would dismiss him
from the responsible situation he holds as pilot of your port. I do
not think him a safe person to trust vessels to, and on my stating this
in the United States, it will affect the insurance of vessels bound to
your port.

I deem it a duty you owe to vessels bound to Honolulu, to provide
them with a safe and sober pilot. There are many other persons fully
capable of the trust, and I think it behooves you to take the proper
measures in relation thereto.

I am well aware that it is only necessary to mention these circum-
stances to your Majesty, to have the abuse corrected ; and I would
recommend Captain John Meek, of Honolulu, as a suitable person for
the office of captain of the port and pilot. I am confident his appoint-
ment would be acceptable to all the merchants and masters of vessels
residing at and visiting Honolulu ; I hope, therefore, that this arrange-
ment may be made without delay.

I have the honour, &c.

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

THE KING'S ANSWER.

MY salutations to you, Captain Wilkes :

I have received your letter respecting the pilot at Honolulu, and
am well aware that your complaints are not groundless, but are well
founded. I have, therefore, given attention to the subject ; but John
Meek has declined the appointment. I have not, however, given up the
subject.

VOL. iv. 2T2 66

522 APPENDIX.

Our laws provide that the local governors shall have a voice in the
appointment of pilots. Wherefore I am waiting the arrival of Governor
Kekuanaoa of Oahu, when we shall consult together, and make a new
appointment, either of a foreigner or of a native, as shall appear best.

(Signed) KAMEHAMEHA III.

Lower Lahaina, March 15th, 1841.

X.

THE orders for Lieutenant Johnson will be found with those of Lieu-
tenant-Commandant Ringgold, in Appendix VII.

XL

U. S. Ship Vincennea,
Nisqually Harbour, May 13th, 1841.
SIR, —

You will proceed from this anchorage, and take up the survey of
Admiralty Inlet, below the Narrows, passing into the channel on the
east side of Vashon's Island ; thence north, examining and surveying
all islets, and the shores of both sides of the straits, particularly all
those bays, &c., that afford shelter for vessels, not only as harbours, but
for temporary anchorage.

Off the north end of Vashon's Island you will be joined by the launch
and first cutter and two boats of this ship, under Lieutenant Case.

If you should have reached this point before the boats, you will place
up a signal, to indicate that you have passed it, and to which they may
join their work of the channel on the west side of Vashon's Island. I
shall direct Lieutenant Case to place a similar mark, if he should reach
it before you, in order that neither party may be delayed.

Lieutenant Case will be ordered to continue with you in the work
if you should meet there ; but if he should reach it before you, he will
be ordered to proceed at once to Hood's Canal ; and you will then con-
tinue the survey down the inlet to the northward. On reaching
Whidby's Island, you will pass into and survey Possession Sound to its
extreme end, and all its inlets, &c.

If you cannot pass out of the Deception Passage, you will order a
party to pass out in boats, and to carry the survey to the southward,
along its western shore, whilst you sail back to its southern end, when
you will take up the survey and continue it until you meet your boat
party, connecting it with Wilson and Hudson Points, which form Port
Townsend. You will not, however, go in here, except for temporary

APPENDIX. 523

anchorage, but proceed at once to the northward, along Bellingham
Bay and through the group of islands, pass into Birch Bay and Fraser's
river, still continuing the survey as far as the entrance to Johnston's
Straits. You will then return to the southward, along the eastern shore
of Quadra's and Vancouver's Islands, until you arrive again at the
Straits of Juan de Fuca, which will be looked for about the first week
in July, when you will anchor in New Dungeness Harbour. After
reaching it, you will despatch my two boats, with sufficient provisions,
to make for this anchorage, ordering them to keep a look-out on the
different points for information from me, which I shall leave, in case I
shall have passed down Admiralty Inlet.

The following instructions will be observed for carrying into effect
the surveying duty, &c.

Whenever practicable, the bases will be measured by chain, and the
true direction of the base-line formed.

Astronomical observations will be particularly attended to, for lati-
tude and longitude, by circummeridian and equal altitudes, daily, if
possible, and from those points or the hills or bluffs near by, observa-
tions will be made with the theodolite on all distant points or mountain
ranges, with a view to ascertain the actual position of peaks, their
extent and height, and to form a connexion with your work. For this
purpose, I recommend large trees to be barked or whitewashed, which
will be found the most convenient signal, and easily distinguished on
each side of the straits. An old piece of canvass, whitewashed and
placed against a dark ground, or cut into a triangular form, and tied
between bushes or trees, forms a mark easily distinguished, and may
be left standing.

It is extremely desirable that the points astronomically ascertained
should be brought directly into connexion with each other, by triangu-
lation, and no opportunity of getting the bearing of points in transit
should be neglected.

The bays, harbours, &c., will be on the scale of four inches to the
mile, but the general chart you will plot on the scale of two inches,
which will include all distant points.

The officers will be particular in sketching in the shores and tracing
the topography.

It is expected that the soundings will be full, and no part omitted,
and that every part of the harbours that are surveyed will be attended
to in this respect, as few things give so unsightly an appearance to a
survey as an irregularity of soundings. In order, therefore, to have a
full view of your work done, it is necessary that it should be plotted
immediately, and the work kept up daily. The number of officers

524 APPENDIX.

now attached to the brig will leave no excuse why it should not be
done, and it will be expected by me that this part of your duty will
meet with the greatest attention.

Variation will be often taken ; also your dip and intensity observa-
tions should be frequently repeated.

You will endeavour to obtain all the information that may lay in
your power, relative to the geological formation, and capabilities of
the soil for agriculture, near and about the parts surveyed, also all
minerals. The east sides of Quadra's and Vancouver's Islands are
known to contain coal, which the Indians get from the surface. It
would be desirable to view the locality and get specimens, &c. All
water-courses and brooks that may afford water for shipping, will be
particularly noticed.

You will also pay great attention to the tides, their height and fall;
set of currents, and the time of high and low water at full and change:
this may be done in a few hours, by marking a staff, stuck in the water
a few feet from shore, and an hour or two before high and low water,
noting the time by the watch at the same time, and again when the
water rises to the same point : the mean will give you the high and
low water on that day, which, applied to the age of the moon, will
give it on full and change.

I am desirous, also, that your dredge should be much used at all
anchorages : there are many times when it can be done very success-
fully in deep water, and the results would be more rare and valuable.

As respects your astronomical observations, those by the north star
I should much prefer to the sun for your latitude, and the time by a
star I consider fully as good as by the sun ; and, after a little prac-
tice, observations on stars with the artificial horizon will be found
easy and convenient, interfering but little with your surveying duties
during the day. The accuracy of the survey depends so much on
these observations, that a few hours taken from sleep will be amply
repaid.

Let all your work on paper bear date, scale, and name. The names
of the Indian tribes, numbers, and extent of the districts belonging
to them, it is desirable to get ; all curiosities, &c., you will of course
preserve.

Referring you to my General Order of May 1st, and wishing you
success in the execution of these instructions,

I am, &c.

CHARLES WILKES,

LIZUT. COM. C. RINGGOLD, Commanding Exploring Expedition.

U. S. Brig Porpoise.

APPENDIX. 525

U. S. Ship Vinccnncs,

Nisqually Harbour,

May 16th, 1841.
SIR, —

You will proceed with the launch, first cutter, Ariel, and Pilot, ac-
companied by Acting-Master Totten, Passed Midshipmen May and
Colvocoressis, to the point in the passage west of Vashon's Island,
below the Narrows (where Mr. Colvocoressis's signal was placed),
from which you will begin the survey of the passage, proceeding
northward until you reach the north end of Vashon's Island, where
you will connect your work with the Porpoise on a staff erected there
by that vessel. If you should find none, you will erect a large pole-
signal, somewhat similar to those we have observed in the different
bays ; and also one on the small island opposite, which I have named
Bainbridge Island, leaving a note of your having done so for Lieu-
tenant-Commandant Ringgold, to which he will connect his work.

You will from thence proceed (not meeting the Porpoise) direct for
Port Lawrence, the place in which we once anchored, at the mouth
of Hood's Canal, which you will proceed to survey, and endeavour to
find a passage through the head of it, into Puget Sound, by some
outlet or channel that may possibly exist: if one should be found,
you will continue your survey through it, and into the waters of
Puget Sound ; if not, after completing the survey of Hood's Canal,
you will return by its entrance to Admiralty Inlet, and thence toward
the ship.

On your arrival at the Narrows, you will again take up the survey,
connecting it with Mr. Totten's No. 1, and Mr. Eld's No. 8, and from
thence into Puget Sound, taking its northern side, and islands near it
in your progress to the southward and westward. From this point
you will despatch one of your boats to me, with information of your
progress.

The signals you put upon these islands must be well marked, so as
to be distinctly seen and recognised.

You will continue up the arms and inlets, until you reach the head
of the sound, and all its branches, after which you will continue the
survey toward the ship at Nisqually.

In case of your falling in with the Porpoise, Lieutenant-Comman-
dant Ringgold has orders to retain you in company until he reaches
the mouth of Hood's Canal, when you will separate from him.

The following instructions will guide you in your surveys.

Whenever practicable, your bases will be measured by chain, and
the true direction of the line found.

Astronomical observations will be particularly attended to, for lati-

526 APPENDIX.

tude and longitude, by circummeridian and equal altitudes, daily if
possible, and from those points, or the hills or bluffs near by, observa-
tions will be made with the theodolite, on all distant points or mountain
ranges, with a view to ascertain the actual position of peaks, their
extent and height, and to form a connexion with your work.

For this purpose, I recommend large trees to be barked or white-
washed, which will be found the most convenient signal, and easily
distinguished on each side of the straits. An old piece of canvass
whitewashed and placed against a dark ground, or cut into a triangu-
lar form, and tied between branches of trees, forms a mark easily dis-
tinguished, and may be left standing.

It is extremely desirable that the points astronomically ascertained,
should be brought directly into connexion with each other by triangu-
lation, and no opportunity of getting the bearing of points in transit
should be neglected.

The bays, harbours, &c., will be on the scale of four inches to the
mile, but the general chart you will plot on the scale of two inches,
which will include all distant points.

The officers will be particular in sketching in the shores, and tracing
the topography. It is expected that the soundings will be full and no
part omitted, and that every part of the harbours that are surveyed
will be attended to in this respect, as few things give so unsightly an
appearance to a survey as an irregularity of soundings.

In order, therefore, to have a full view of your work done, it is
necessary that it should be plotted immediately, and the work kept up
daily.

The number of officers under your command will leave no excuse
why it should not be done, and it will be expected by me that this part
of your duty will be attended to with the greatest attention.

You will endeavour to obtain all the information that may lay in
your power relative to the geological formation, and capabilities of the
soil for agriculture, near and about the parts surveyed ; also all the
minerals ; and water-courses or brooks affording water for shipping,
will be particularly noticed.

You will likewise pay great attention to the tides, their height and
fall, set of currents, and the time of high and low water at full and
change. This may be done in a few hours by marking a staff stuck
in the water, a few feet from the shore, and an hour or two before
high and low water, noting the time by the watch at the same time,
and again when the water rises to the same point : the mean will give
you the high and low water on that day, which, applied to the age of
the moon, will give it on full and change.

APPENDIX. 527

I am desirous also that your dredge should be much used at all
anchorages : there are many times when it can be done successfully in
deep water, and the results would be more rare arid valuable.

As respects your astronomical observations, those by the north star
I should much prefer to the sun for your latitude, and the time by a
star I consider fully as good as that by the sun. After a little practice,
observations on stars with the artificial horizon will be found easy and
convenient, interfering but little with your surveying duties during the
day.

The accuracy of the survey depends so much on these observations,
that a few hours taken from sleep will be amply repaid.

Let all your work bear date, scale, and name. The names of the
Indian tribes, numbers, and extent of the district belonging to them, it
is desirable to get. All curiosities you will of course preserve.

Some articles are placed under your charge for presents and trade ;
you will be very economical in their use, and with, your report you
will give me an account of their distribution.

Of your ammunition you will take particular care, suffering no
discharge to be wasted, either by your own boat's crew, or those
under your command.

No grog is allowed. Your meals will be taken in time to get to
your surveying duties by seven o'clock in the morning, and you will
continue them until 5 p. M., when you will land and prepare the
men's supper. No trading must be allowed during the time allotted
for surveying duties, as it would call off the attention, and prevent the
promotion of the work.

On Saturday afternoon, you will always select a suitable place for
your stay until Monday morning. Neither officers nor men are to be
allowed to leave the boats on excursions. When in camp, you will
be particular in having a strict watch kept, under charge of an officer.

The provisions are under your charge, and you will see that no
waste takes place. If you obtain sufficient fresh provisions, you will
serve them out in lieu of the salt ration.

My General Orders relative to the intercourse with the natives,
must be strictly observed. Any infraction of them, you may rely
upon it, will be duly noticed. Your men are furnished with three suits
of clothes each. They must never be suffered to remain in wet clothes
at night ; and you will see that they shave and keep themselves clean.

They will have ample time to wash on Saturday afternoons, and
the Sunday's rest will render them able to encounter the fatigues of
the week.

I shall expect from you a very particular report of all circumstances
that occur.

528 APPENDIX.

A theodolite, chain, dredge, the eprouvette, and a howitzer, are fur-
nished you for measurements of base, &c.

You will supply yourself with the signals required for surveying
service, and see that each of your officers is furnished with the signal-
book and answering pendants.

Referring you to my General Order of May 1st, and wishing you
success in the execution of these instructions,

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
LIEUTENANT A. L. CASE,

U. S. Ship Vincennes.

XII.

U. S. Ship Vincenncs,

Nisqually Harbour, May 13th, 1841.
SIR, —

You are entrusted with the charge of the party, consisting of your-
self, Mr. Thomas W. Waldron, Dr. Pickering, Mr. Brackenridge,
Sergeant Stearns, and Henry Walthrown (ordinary seaman), for the
exploration of the district pointed out in the accompanying map.

You will leave this place on the 17th, and proceed by the route
that will lead you across the mountain range north of Mount Rainier,
of which it forms a part. Thence you will pursue a route to the
northward, keeping to the west of the Columbia river until you reach
Fort Okonagan, where you will doubtless obtain much information
relative to the country, and proper guides to proceed with. From
thence I should desire you to push to the northward, if possible, and
your time will permit, making a detour so as to stop at Fort Colville ;
thence across the Saptin or Lewis river, and down to Fort Nez
Perce, and thence, in a direction to Mount Rainier, to Nisqually,
where you will join me or receive orders to govern your farther
movements.

The route I have pointed out I believe to be feasible, but as the
country is little known, it may not be so. My object is to get infor-
mation respecting the district 1 have marked in red, and you will
endeavour to get this as accurately as possible, by travelling over as
much of its surface as your time will admit of. You are limited to
two months' absence, and I am well convinced that much knowledge
may be gained of the district poinled out to you, in that time.

Your inquiries at posts and forts will lead to much information of
the country, with its capabilities, productions, climate, soil, &c.

They will particularly embrace the following, viz. :

APPENDIX. 529

1st. The names of tribes of Indians, and their number.

2d. Manners, customs, modes of living, disposition, &c.

3d. The sources and courses of rivers and their branches, with their
latitude and longitude, and also of lakes, their extent, and whether
head waters of rivers, or having any outlet.

4th. Climate, degrees of heat and cold; if not thermometrically
observed, get the time when trees blossom and fruits come in.

5th. How long the posts or forts have been occupied, state of fur
trade in the interior, number of forts established, where, and among
what tribes.

6th. Timber, kinds and qualities, soil, and all other information,
together with accounts, tales, and histories of adventures, that you
may hear well authenticated.

You will observe the following instructions relative to your times
and modes of observing, viz. :

You will keep an accurate map of your route, noting on it the lati-
tude and longitude of all your stopping-places, from which position you
will take the bearings and angles on all distant hills and mountains,
direction of ranges, courses of rivers, &c. You are provided with a
chronometer, sextant, artificial horizon, prismatic compass, barometer,
and thermometers. Your means for obtaining observations will be
great : I shall therefore expect you to be very particular and untiring
in their use, as much of the information derived from them will depend
entirely on your own exertions.

Observations you will obtain daily, if possible, both for latitude and
longitude. When the meridian altitude of the sun is not obtained, you
will have frequent opportunities by the north star. This observation
you will find easy after a little practice, by bringing the two reflected
images to cover each other, and having your mean time, any time of
night you will be able to obtain your latitude.

I also wish you to use the stars for getting your time. The obser-
vations of two stars east and west, will give you it with great accu-
racy. The best mode of observing stars in the artificial horizon is to
clamp your index nearly to its altitude, and await its coming, and
when they cover, mark the time. Stars nearly east and west of you
are to be preferred, altitude about twenty or thirty degrees.

All your observations must be worked up as soon after they are
taken as possible. I enclose you herewith a few azimuth formulas.

When you take an azimuth, which ought to be daily, take it on
some well-defined object, and note carefully the bearing of it by the
prismatic compass. It is particularly desired to multiply these obser-
vations.

VOL. iv. 2U 67

530 APPENDIX.

Your route or courses must be kept by compass : this you will find
no difficulty in doing in an open country ; but through the woods it
will be better that all your party should be required to keep their own
reckoning, which you will use, together with your own, in the same
way as at sea. The longitude of Fort Nisqually for your departure
you may take as 122° 53' W., its latitude 47° 07' 30" N. To serve
you for more accurate measurement than mere guess, time the paces
of your horses, and the length of each pace will be your scale.

You will map or keep a diagram of your work on the pages of your
journal, taking the ruled lines as a convenient scale of miles, marking
thereon the mountains, hills, woods, rivers, brooks, and plains, within
your horizon. This will be more effectually done by ascending any
hill to take a bearing from. Every remarkable object you will desig-
nate by its native name ; if it has none, give it one of your own.

A tape-line is furnished you to get any measurements with, such as
the width of rivers, &c. ; also find the velocity by the distance a chip
will pass in a given time. You will measure also any remarkable
trees you may meet with, their height and circumference. At all
your stopping-places you will take a reading of the barometer, and the
thermometers will be read every six hours, and as often besides as
your change of altitude may make it desirable. As it is one great
object to ascertain the height of all ranges, you will be particular in
noting the barometer on them, and it will be desirable for some one
of the party to ascend all remarkable hills : the barometer will also be
sent ; it is hoped that great care will be taken that it is not injured.

It may be desirable for Dr. Pickering and Mr. Brackenridge to
make occasional short excursions from your direct route ; you will in
that case afford them all the facilities in your power to promote their
researches.

You will study the safety as well as the comfort of your party, and
bear in mind particularly the instructions for the treatment of the
natives in my General Order of May 1st, 1841.

Finally, you are not to deviate from the route pointed out unless
insurmountable difficulties should render it impossible to pursue the
course specified, and in no case are you to go to the southward of the
limits pointed out.

Wishing you success in the execution of these instructions,

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

LIEUTENANT R. E. JOHNSON,

U. S. Brig Porpoise.

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534 APPENDIX.

XIV.

U. S. Ship Vinccnnes,

Nisqually Roads,

July 17th, 1841.
SIR, —

You are entrusted with the party, consisting of yourself, Passed
Midshipman Eld, Mr. Brackenridge, Sergeant Stearns, Privates
Rodgers and Dinsman, John Brooks (seaman), Thomas Ford and
Henry Waltham (ordinary seamen), and the boy Joe, as interpreter,
for the purpose of proceeding to Gray's Harbour, by the portage of
Shaptal, and through the lakes of the same name, thence down the
Chickeeles river, which empties itself into the ocean, forming Gray's
Harbour.

You are provided with two canoes and four balsas, together with
provisions for twenty days, which is considered by me ample time to
effect the following objects, &c.

Your departure will take place from Nisqually, on the 19th, pro-
ceeding up Puget Sound to the portage, where you will ascertain
your latitude and longitude by equal altitudes and the pole-star ; thence
passing over the portage, you will direct your attention particularly to
the facilities it offers for transportation, and sketch the topographical
plan of it.

On reaching the Shaptal Lakes, you will embark (after having made
a rough survey to ascertain their extent, if they are too large to be
embraced by one view of the eye), on the Chickeeles, and proceed
down it towards Gray's Harbour, making observations in order to
ascertain its courses, length, and width, together with its capabilities
for navigation.

On your arrival at Gray's Harbour, you will proceed to make an
accurate survey of it, by measuring a base-line on the Sandy Flats at
low water, and establishing well-marked signals round the harbour;
and those near the entrance sufficiently large to enable you to see to
angle on them at the bar, which must be sounded at low water, when
it is supposed to be more clearly defined.

Some difficulties may occur in this part of the duty; and after the
signals are put up, it would be better to sacrifice a little time, if a
favourable and smooth time occurs, by beginning at that part of the
work.

Your canoes are considered amply sufficient and safe to effect this
object, even in boisterous weather, being furnished with balsas.

APPENDIX. 535

After having fixed your encampment, you will erect a tide-staff, and
keep the hourly observations, as also the noting of the times of equal
altitudes on the staff between tides.

The set of the currents, in and out of the harbour, at different times
of the tide, will be attended to; and a rough diagram of their»flow, by
the direction of arrows, will prove satisfactory to make your observa-
tions intelligible.

If you find a projecting cape at the mouth of the harbour, you will
not fail to get several azimuthal observations on the different points
north and south, establishing the correct trending of the coast. The
latitude and longitude of this point you will carefully determine.

After having finished this survey, you will proceed along the coast
in your canoes (choosing a smooth time), and sketch its trendings and
outlines to Shoalwater Bay, from whence you will despatch a letter
for me, directed to Mr. Birnie, at Fort George, and proceed to survey
with all accuracy that bay, until you have finished it, and the shores
around to Cape Disappointment, which had better be done on shore, as
the rollers near the cape are to be cautiously guarded against in the
canoes you are to effect your work in.

From Shoalwater Bay you will pass over a small portage, when
you will enter a lake that has its outlet in Baker's Bay, where you
will join the ships, or await my arrival there.

In executing this duty, you will be very particular as respects the
safety of your party from the natives, taking great care to avoid any
collision with them, and to take up your encampments at remote dis-
tances from their lodges. Your party are provided with the neces-
sary arms to protect themselves. None of them must be disposed of,
nor any thing else given for trade, and you will take particular care
and use great economy in the expenditure of every thing belonging to
the government, and not abandon any thing, except through absolute
necessity, in which decision the officer who accompanies you must
coincide.

Before quitting Gray's Harbour, you will see that all the work of
the survey is plotted, and a copy of it taken on tracing paper, which
must be deposited in a separate place, to prevent the loss of both.

I arn aware that you may be detained a few days on account of the
surf and weather ; but do not risk your men, or omit to perform the
duty assigned you.

These orders you will show to Passed Midshipman Eld, that he
may take a note of them, in case of accident.

A full report will be expected from you, relative to the country

536 APPENDIX.

passed through, and all information it may be in your power to obtain
relative to its facilities for commerce, and its wants.

On your arrival at Gray's Harbour, if an opportunity should offer
you will send a letter, as above directed.

Wishing you a pleasant time in the execution of these duties,

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
LIEUTENANT R. E. JOHNSON.

NOTE. — In the above orders, the name of Lieutenant Johnson was
erased, and that of Passed Midshipman Eld inserted ; and Mr. Colvo-
coressis substituted for Mr. Eld. C. W.

XV.

ARTICLES OF AGREEMENT BETWEEN THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY AND
THEIR SERVANTS.

AN agreement, made this of , 1836, between , in the

county of , in the parish of , in England, of the one part, and

the Governor and Company adventurers of England, trading into
Hudson's Bay, by , their agent, of the other part, as follows :

The said , hereby contracts and agrees to enter into the service

and employment of the said Company, in North America, in the
capacity of farm-servants, or carpenters, or voyageurs, &c. ; and that
he will embark, when thereunto required, on board such ship or vessel
as shall be appointed, and in behalf of said Company, and proceed to
Hudson's Bay, and for the term of five years, to be completed from the
said embarkation, and faithfully serve the said Company, as their hired

servant, in the capacity of , and devote the whole of his time and

labour in their service, and for their sole benefit ; and that he will do
his duty as such, and perform all such work or service, by day or by
night, for the said Company, as he shall be required to do, and obey all
orders which he shall receive from the governors of the Company in
North America, or either their officers or agents for the time being,
and that he will with courage and fidelity in his said station, in the
said service, defend the property of the said Company, and their
factories and territories, and will not absent himself from the said
service, nor engage, or be concerned, in any trade, or employment
whatsoever, except for the benefit of the said Company, and according
to their orders ; and that the said will faithfully obey all laws,

APPENDIX. 537

orders, or regulations, established or made by the said Company, for
the good government of their settlements and territories ; and at all

times during the residence of the said in North America, he will

defend the rights and privileges of said Company, and aid and support

their officers and agents to the utmost of his power ; and the said

further engages and agrees, that if required so to do by the said
governor of the said Company in North America, or other their officers
and agents for the time being, he shall enrol himself as a soldier, in any
volunteer, militia, or other military corps that may be formed or
embodied by the said Company in North America, and act in that
capacity with courage and fidelity, on any offensive or defensive
service in which he maybe employed by the governor of said Company
in North America, or other their officers and agents for the time being,
and attend such drills or exercise, in order to acquire a knowledge of
the duties that may be required of him, as a member of such corps,
whenever he may be called upon so to do by the governor of the said

Company, or other their officers or agents ; and the said further

engages and agrees, that his wife and children, in consideration of
being found in provisions by the said Company, if required so to do by
the governor of said Company in North America, or other their officers
or agents for the time being, render their services at hay-making,
sheep-shearing, weeding, and such other light work as they may be

equal to, at the farm or farms on which the said may be employed

by the governor of the said Company in North America, or other their
officers or agents.

And the said further engages and agrees, that in case he shall

omit to give notice to the governor or officers of said Company in
North America, one year or upwards, before the expiration of the said
term of five years, of his intention to quit their service, and return to
Europe, then, that he hereby promises and engages to remain one year
longer, and also until the next ship in the service of the Company shall
sail from thence for Europe, as their hired servant in North America,

upon like terms as are contained in this contract ; and the said •

also engages and agrees, that in case the said Company should not
have any ship, which will sail from Hudson's Bay for Europe, imme-
diately after the expiration of the said term of five years, or of such
further term as hereinbefore mentioned, then he hereby promises and
engages to remain in the service as a hired servant of the said
Company in North America, until the next ship of the said Company
shall sail from thence for Europe, upon the like terms as are contained
in this contract; and the said Mr. Sketton, on behalf of the said
Company, hereby engages, that upon the condition of the due and

VOL. iv. 68

538 APPENDIX.

faithful service of the said , and his wife and children in like

manner, he shall receive from the said Company, after the rate of
seventeen pounds per annum, wages, to commence on the day of his
embarkation for Hudson's Bay, as aforesaid, and up to the day of his
embarkation from thence for Europe in one of the first ships in the said
Company's service, and be found in board and lodging, for himself, and
wife, and children, on the condition aforesaid, free of cost, by the said

Company ; and in the event of the said being enrolled in any

volunteer, militia, or other military corps, as aforesaid, he shall be pro-
vided by the said Company, free of cost, with a uniform or suit of
regimental clothes, every second year, to be worn when on duty in the
said corps, and shall be provided with arms and ammunition, free of

cost, by the said Company ; and in the event of the said being

desirous of remaining in the territory of said Company in North
America, and of settling therein as a permanent resident, after the
expiration of this engagement, he shall be permitted so to do, by the
said Company, if his conduct, up to that time, shall have been to their
entire satisfaction, and a grant of fifty acres of land shall be made to
him, free of cost, but subject to the like condition, restrictions, rules, and
regulations, as the other listed servants of the said Company, holding
grants of land, as settlers, under them, in such situations of places as
may hereafter be determined on by the said Company. But in con-
sideration of the said such grant of land, the said shall have to

render twenty-eight days of labour or service in every year, for the first
seven years after he shall have become a settler, or permanent resident,
in the country, to the said Company, or any duty he may be called upon to
perform by the said governors of the said Company in North America,
or other their agents or officers for the time being, without being entitled
to any further pay or remuneration for such service or labours. But
permission to remain in the country after the expiration of this engage-
ment, to be dependent on the conduct of the said during the term

of his engagement, and discretionary with the said Company, or their
agents or other officers, for the time being, in North America ; provided
always, and it is here expressly agreed between the said parties there-
unto, that it shall be lawful for the governor, or governors, or other
officers of the said Company in North America, at any time during the
said term of five years, or such additional term as the aforesaid, or at

the expiration of the engagement, to dismiss the said from either

service, and direct his return from thence to Europe, in one of the
ships in their employment ; and in which case a passage, free of cost,

shall be provided, by the said Company, for the said and his wife

and children, from Hudson's Bay back to Europe, and in such case his

APPENDIX. 539

wages are to cease from the day of his embarkation for Europe ; and
further, that in case the said shall, at any time during this con-
tract, desert the service of the said Company, or otherwise neglect or
refuse duly to discharge his duty, as such hired servant as aforesaid,
then he shall forfeit and lose all his wages; for the recovery thereof
there shall be no relief, either in law or equity.

In witness whereof, the said parties have hereunto set their names.
Signed in presence of

END OF THE FOURTH VOLUME.

Wilkes, Charles

Narrative of the United
States exploring expedition

NOV 2 f 1989