rma

il

THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY

OF CALIFORNIA

LOS ANGELES

NARRATIVE

THE ALCESTE'S VOYAGE

THE YELLOW SEA,

*

*

DS

Si) 7

TO

JAMES WOOD, ESQ.

OF POTTER HILL,

THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE INSCRIBED,

AS A TESTIMONY

OF THE HIGH RESPECT AND ESTEEM IN WHICH HE IS HELD

BY THE AUTHOR.

ADVERTISEMENT.

THE author of the following pages has attempted to narrate (in the best and shortest way he can) the occur- rences of a voyage rendered remarkable by a combina- tion of extraordinary events, and the circumstance of a communication with an interesting people, with whom, for the first time, Europeans have had any intercourse ; and he has ventured a few occasional remarks, precisely as they arose in his mind on the spot, and which more mature re- flection has not induced him to alter. He is aware that his thoughts, as well as his mode of expressing them, may be liable to comment ; but he hopes that those who are mighty in criticism will be merciful in censure, and not visit with asperity that which is humble in pretension.

DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.

Tofaee Portrait of Captain Maxwell Ti tie-Page

Islanders of Sir James Hall's Group 38

Corean Chief and Attendants 40

Lewchewan Chief and Attendants 62

Garden of the Temple at Lewchew 67

VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

TO

CHINA.

1HE British Government, on the repre- sentation of the Court of Directors of the East-India Company, respecting the trade with China, having decided, with the view of relieving that branch of its com- merce from the increasing vexatious im- positions of the local authorities of Can- ton, on the measure of sending an em- bassy to the court of Pekin ; as on a former occasion of a similar kind, a distinguished nobleman had been selected to fill the situa- tion of Embassador Extraordinary from the

B

VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

King of Great Britain to the Emperor of China, who carried out with him a nume- rous suite composed of gentlemen well skilled in every branch of natural know- ledge, with many curious and costly pre- sents ; so it was now determined v,o leave nothing short that could contribute to the splendour and respectability of the present embassy. The Right Hon. Lord Amherst (who had already filled the high situation of Embassador at the court of Sicily) was appointed to conduct this difficult and delicate mission. Mr. Henry Ellis (formerly employed in a success- ful negotiation with the king of Persia) was named secretary of embassy, with dormant powers to act as Minister Ple- nipotentiary, should any accident to the Embassador render that circumstance ne- cessary. The Hon. JefFery Amherst, as page ; Mr. Hayne, as private secretary ; Mr. Abel, as surgeon and naturalist ; the Rev. John Griffiths, as chaplain; Mr. Havell, as artist; and Dr. Lynn, with Mr. Maurige, Mr. Poole, and some others

TO CHINA.

to fill the respective departments, consti- tuted the suite of his excellency *.

Many valuable presents, supplied, as on the former occasion, by the East-India Company, for the emperor and his minis- ters, consisting of specimens of our im- proved manufactures, made by the firs't hands, were also prepared. The command of the naval part of the expedition was in- trusted to Captain Murray Maxwell ; and the Alceste, a frigate of forty-six guns, was fitted up for the reception of the Em- bassador and suite. His Majesty's brig Lyra, commanded by Capt. Basil Hall, and the General Hewitt Indiaman, by Capt. Campbell, accompanied the Alceste, the latter carrying out the presents.

On the 9th of February, 1816, the ships sailed from Spithead, and soon cleared the Channel, with a favourable breeze, which continued with us to Madeira, where we

* Lieut. Cooke, of the Royal Marines, was also attached to the embassy, on its landing in China, the guard being selected from that corps. Messrs. Abbot, Martin, and Somerset, were likewise added to it at this period. B 2

4 VOYAGE OF H. M. S.ALCESTE

arrived on the 18th. In Funchal road we found the Phaeton, having Sir Hudson and Lady Lowe, with their suite on board, in their way to St. Helena ; and the Niger, with Mr. Bagot, on his mission to America. Our stay here was only twelve hours, and, in the evening, we pursued our course to the south-westward. The weather becom- ing hourly warmer, our people, who had been badly clothed, and had suffered a good deal from the severity of the cold in fitting out the ship, now began to thaw a little : things were beginning to find their proper places in the ship; and those unaccustomed to the rolling motion had, by this time, acquired their sea-legs. On the 4th March, in the evening, at the moment of crossing the equinoctial line, the voice of some one, as from the sea, announced himself as Nep- tune's eldest son, and, after putting the usual interrogatories, added, that his father being a little indisposed, and rather squeamish about exposing himself to the night air, had deferred his visit until the morning, when he would personally call on board to inspect the strangers who were now en-

TO CHINA.

tering his dominions. The son of Neptune seemed now to sink again into the deep. In the morning, his godship, agreeably to promise, appeared, seated in his car (a gun-carriage), with his trident and other insignia, attended by Amphitrite, and all his usual train of inferior deities. He was received by a strange-looking guard of hi,s own, the band striking up " Rule-Britan- nia!" After paying his respects to the Embassador, the Captain, and the rest, the novices, of whom there were not a few, were forthwith shaved, according to a practice immemorial, with a rusty iron hoop, full of notches ; and the lather being washed off, by playing the fire-engine in their faces, they were then wiped dry with a dirty swab. Much mirth and good hu- mour prevailed ; and a double allowance of grog finished the ceremony. We expe- rienced none of the calms usual near the line, and nothing of moment occurred until we reached the lat. 20° 4" north, long. 31° 52V/ west, on the 16th March, when the Lyra and Hewitt were directed to make the best of their way to the Cape of Good Hope,

O VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

whilst the Alceste proceeded to the capital of the Brazils, where we arrived on the 21st of that month.

All the bold, as well as beautiful, features of nature, have conjoined to enrich the scenery of Rio Janeiro. The luxuriant de- scriptions of former travellers are by no means exaggerated, for it would indeed be difficult to exceed the truth in portraying the sublimity and grandeur of such a scene as presents itself on entering the har- bour. The numerous islets appearing on this extensive sheet of water, — its richly- wooded banks, rising like an amphitheatre on either hand, studded with villages and country seats, — added to the distant view of lofty and picturesque mountain s,— form, altogether, a very unusual and noble land- scape.

The death of the queen, which hap- pened the day previous to our arrival, at the good old age of eighty-two, had rather cast a gloom over the city of St. Sebastians. The batteries and ships fired five-minute guns during the whole day and night ; the Alceste, Indefatigable, and a Spanish fri-

TO CHINA.

gate, following this example ; displaying also the usual exterior marks of grief, by hoisting the colours half-staff high, and top- ping the yards. The officers likewise wore crape; and, from a positive order being issued to all the inhabitants to go into mourning, (which none dared, under the severest penalties, disobey,) the prices of all black articles felt a sudden and enormous increase.

The government of the Brazils seems perfectly despotic; and it is painful to see even Englishmen lose the natural freedom of their character under such domi- nion. Some, who from Ions: residence had

o

imbibed the feelings of the Portuguese, would, in answering any question relative to public affairs, look cautiously around, to see who was near them, and then whisper their reply.

The prince (now the king) during the period her majesty laid in state, was shut up, according to their usage, not to be seen by any but his chamberlain.

Swarms of priests occupied every avenue to the palace, and hung in clusters on the

8 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

staircases. St. Sebastians seems to be a soil, in which these members of the autos da fe still thrive well. The Brazils have lately been raised from the state of a mere colony to the dignity of a kingdom ; and the residence of the court has conferred still more substantial advantages on it, arising from the emigration of the chief nobility from Portugal, and the transfer of their wealth to this country.

Its commerce has of late years increased to a great degree, chiefly, however, under the direction of English houses. The re- turn of the court to the mother country, it is thought, would be the signal of revolt ; for it is not probable the Brazils would long remain in their present fettered state, whilst colonies in all directions around them are freeing themselves from the oppression of the mother country. The want of the usual public attentions of saluting the flag of a foreign power might have been ac- counted for under the present circum- stances of the court; but it was singular (considering, more particularly, our late relations with Portugal) that a house for

TO CHINA. 9

the accommodation of the Embassador and suite, during their short stay, and which had been granted to the former embassy, should have been refused in the present instance. The hospitality, however, of Mr. Chamberlayne, the British minister here, amply supplied this deficiency. All places of public amusement were of course shut; and the only spectacle, during our stay, was the funeral of the queen, which took place by torch-light ; all the military that could be collected, both horse and foot, lining the streets (which were illumi- nated) from the palace to the convent of Ajuda. The hearse and state-coaches were drawn up at the grand entrance, covered with black cloth, and near them the chief mourners, who were eight of the nobles, on horseback. Their dress was the ancient Poi tuguese costume of mourning. Each had a large broad-brimmed hat, rather slouch- ing down upon the shoulders ; a long black cloak, or robe, with the star of some order affixed to it ; conveying to the mind of an English spectator the whimsical combina- tion of a coal-heaver, a priest, and a knight.

10 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

The king, accompanied by the two elder princes, attended the coffin to the principal porch, and saw it deposited in the hearse, when the whole cavalcade drove off, and the body was interred in the convent, with the usual religious ceremonies. The royal family next day appeared at the balconies of the palace ; on which occasion it is usual for the Portuguese to stand uncovered in the square opposite ; and, if any of the royal carriages are met on the road, the passengers on horseback must dismount, and even kneel.

Neither of their Portuguese majesties can themselves be considered as regular beauties; but the princesses are good figures, and cer- tainly, upon the whole, handsome women. Don Pedro, their eldest son, promises to be a man of some spirit. Much indolence seems to exist among the inhabitants, and they are said still to possess their charac- teristic contempt of all reading ; so that a publisher of books in the Brazils would probably earn but a lean livelihood. This country produces all the various fruits of the

TO CHINA.

warmer climates; such as pine-apples, oranges, limes, mangoes, guavas, melons, bananas, £c. ; the tea-shrub still conti- nues to be an article of growth, under the direction of some Chinese accustomed to manage it ; and it is to be hoped they may succeed in extending and improving its cultivation. The slave-trade still exists to its fullest extent; and this class of the po- pulation, however useful they may be, are certainly not ornamental ; being the ugliest race of negroes that can be collected from the African coast — Gaboons, Congos, and Angolas. Our West-India islands having been generally supplied with Fantees, from the Gold Coast, with Eyeos, and Ashantees, who are a much finer-looking people ; this circumstance, added, perhaps, to their im- proved condition, their better clothing, and general treatment, gives a slave of Jamaica a far less degraded appearance than one in this country. Yet, though the situation of the former is much ameliorated (and un- doubtedly superior to his native state in Africa), it is unfortunate that the first Eu-

12 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

ropean settlers of colonies, had not, instead of hunting down and oppressing the na- tives, trained them to habits of industry ; when the term slavery, so revolting to hu- manity even under the most favourable circumstances, so contrary to reason and natural right, need never have been known. Our East-India possessions, and late occu- pation of Java, sufficiently demonstrate the practicability of this system.

They do Buonaparte, here, the honour of being very much afraid of him ; and keep a bright eye to windward, lest he should break adrift from St. Helena, and come down upon them before the fcind. This silly ap- pearance of fear is something like the weakness of ordering his name never to be mentioned, than which, perhaps, nothing tends more to keep up his con- sequence.

This part of the Brazils is naturally hot during the months of December, January, and February ; but (more especially as the southern, are found to be comparatively colder than corresponding northern lati-

TO CHINA.

tudes,) it enjoys, during our summer, a sort of tropical winter, and is not considered an unhealthy climate,

The town of St. Sebastians, without any public edifice worthy of notice, is regu- larly built, and, from the late influx of in- habitants, is daily extending its limits. Al- though this country produces plenty of beef, yet, from want of care and mana^e- ment, it is such as would be considered car- rion in England ; and in few parts of the world is there less accommodation for tra- vellers, there being only some casas, or inns, of the most wretched description.

The Brazils display an inexhaustible field for the researches of the naturalist, for no where else can the objects of his inquiry be more varied or multiplied. The state of society here is represented, by those whose long residence and close intercourse afford them the means of judging, as extremely demoralized. The men, in their exterior appearance, are a squalid, hysterical, grim- looking set; but the ladies, though generally little, and dark-coloured, are not deficient

14 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

in beauty or expression of countenance; they want, however, that elegance of gait and graceful walk, peculiar to the Spa- niards. They are said to be more atten- tive to the external forms of decorum than to the essential practice of modesty ; but .this, if true, may " depend/* as was sug- gested by an elegant writer of the last embassy, " on the example of the men ;" for it would scarcely be reasonable to expect the perfection of female morals, where every manly virtue is unknown. At least three- fourths of the world are in a state of bar- barism where women have no character at all ; being either immured in seraglios, or the mere slaves and play- things of their savage lords ; but in that portion of it, which has a claim to civilization, where they are allowed to have minds, and as- sume their just rank, the slightest glance will shew, that among those nations where honour, intelligence, and worth, are held in most esteem by the one sex, they are uni- formly rewarded by corresponding good qualities in the other.

TO CHINA. 15

The ship having recruited her supply of very excellent water*, and other matters settled, we took our leave of the Ameri- can shore on the 31st of March, steering south-easterly until we got from 36° to 39° south, where we found the prevailing westerly winds. Keeping in the usual tract for ships crossing the Southern Atlantic, we passed the islands of Tristan d'Acunha, about fifty miles to the northward of them. The wind continuing favourable, we saw the Table Mountain on the 18th of April, and anchored on the same day in the bay. We arrived at a gay time, in the middle of horse- racing and balls. An India fleet touched here, homeward bound, one of the ships having on board the Countess of Loudon and family, on their passage to England. Cape Town has now become almost an English place, and is too well known to require any description here.

* Captain Cook complained of the water here being very bad. — At that time, perhaps, the aqueduct was not so extensively covered, and secured from the admission of impurities, as at present.

16 VOYAGE OF H. AI. S. ALCESTE

As strangers, on first landing here, we were forcibly struck by the remarkable difference of complexion in the female part of the society, compared with the brunettes we had just left at Rio Janeiro ; and an Eng- lishman is probably the more inclined to esteem the beauty of the Cape ladies from its great resemblance to that which he is accustomed to admire at home. It is hint- ed, however, that this resemblance exists chiefly during youth, and that, in their ma- turer years, they are apt (from sedentary habits and want of exercise) to acquire a peculiar Hottentotish obesity. But this, per- haps, is only said by ill-natured people.

The ship having gone round to Simon's Bay, and the necessary refitment being completed, his lordship embarked at this place, with the usual marks of attention, on the 6th of May, and we proceeded on our voyage. From 38° to 40° south, we found our expected winds ; but, as winter was far advanced in this hemisphere, (latter end of May, and beginning of June,) the weather was cold, bleak, and boisterous, with a heavy sea. On the 24th May we made

TO CHINA. 17

the islands of St. Paul and Amsterdam. Smoke was seen, as we approached, issu- ing from the crevices of the latter. It is here where the hot springs so nearly adjoin to the greatsalt water basin, as to afford the sin- gular exhibition of catching fish in the latter, and boiling them in the former, without taking themorT the hook, and within reach of the rod. The state of the weather, which was very rough, and the time of the evening, did not allow us to verify this fact, but there is no doubt of its truth. An immense crater (now apparently converted into a sort of harbour, the sea having flowed into it) appears on the eastern side of the island.

Having got sufficiently to the eastward for the purpose of fetching Java with the usual tropical winds, we began to haul to the northward and eastward, the wea- ther of course becoming daily warmer; and, on the 8th June, we saw Java Head, and anchored next day in Anjeri road, where we found the Lyra at anchor, and saw the Hewitt off Cape Nicholas, on her way to Batavia, they having only

18 VOYAGE OF II. M. S. ALCESTJ3

arrived two days before us*. This pas- sage was extraordinary for its rapidity, for in ninety -two days, under sail, the ship had traversed about fourteen thousand miles, and visited every quarter of the globe.

After staying a day or two at the village of Anjeri (where we were amused with the ceremony of a Javanese wedding,) Colonel Yule, the resident of the Bantam district, accompanied by Mr. M'Gregor, waited on the Embassador to pay their respects ; and having provided the necessary accommo- dation for his lordship and suite to pro- ceed overland to Batavia, they all set out on their journey thither. During our short stay here, the king, or sultan, of Ban- tam, died; and his uncle (the nearest heir to the sovereignty) refused to accept the title, preferring to live in humble retire-

* The superior sailing of the frigate enabled us to touch at Rio Janeiro, without in any way delaying the general passage ; as, notwithstanding this, she nearly overtook her consorts at the Cape. The same was the case here, though she remained ten days behind, being able to afford them, in such a run, a start of 1000, or 1500 miles.

TO CHINA. 19

merit. The Alceste, having completed her water, sailed also for Batavia, as she had brought out duplicate despatches for the evacuation -of the island of Java. The Lyra, in the mean time, had been sent on to China, with a communication from Lord Amherst to Sir G. Staunton.

On the 21st June we sailed from Batavia, with the General Hewitt ; saw the island of Lucepara on the 23d, and entered the straits of Banca. Our voyage up the China sea presented nothing unusual. On the 9th of July we met His Majesty's ship Orlando, and received intelligence of the motions of our coadjutors at Macao. We joined them at anchor near the Grand Lemma on the following day, and found along with the Lyra, the Discovery, and Investigator, two surveying-ships belonging to the Company, having on board Sir G. Staunton, and some other gentlemen * be- longing to the factory, whose knowledge

N Messrs. Morrison, Manning, Toone, Davis, and Pearson.

20 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

of the Chinese language rendered them necessary as interpreters.

The apparent reason of choosing this rendezvous, was to be free from the im- pertinence of the Canton official people, whose business it naturally was to thwart the measures, and throw every possible im- pediment in the way of, the embassy. Circumstances occasioning the delay of a day or two, the ships passed on to an an- chorage among the Hong Kong islands ; where the Anjeri water, not being deemed good, was changed for that which fell from the rocks, and was certainly uncontaminated by any vegetable matter, for few places present a more barren aspect than these islands. They are also called the Ladrones, from being the haunts of pirates ; and for such a purpose their situation is extremely well adapted. Here a message arrived, stating the emperor's pleasure that the em- bassy should be received as in the former case ; and that the necessary orders had been sent to the ports of the Eastern and Yellow Seas for that purpose.

TO CHINA. 21

On the 13th July the squadron (four ships and the brig) sailed ; and, coasting along the provinces of Quang-tung and Fokien, passed through the Straits of Formosa, and entered the Tung Hai, or Eastern Sea. The breeze altered its direction occasion- ally, but was always favourable ; and, pass- ing out of sight of the Chusan islands, we saw the land to the eastward, which we then conceived to be the south-west point of Corea. On the 24th we made Staunton's island, and Capes Gower and Macartney, on the south-east part of the Shan-tong promontory ; and, the next day, rounding close the north-east point, we entered the Gulph of Pe-tche-lee. The country here had an extremely rugged and sterile look. On the 26th we passed through the Mee- a-tau islands, and steered for the mouth of the White (or North) River*, despatching the Lyra a-head, to announce the ap- proach of the squadron.

An address was now publicly read by

* It is doubtful whether Pel means white or north ; most probably the latter.

22 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

Lord Amherst, to all the individuals who were to be attendants on the embassy, touching the great necessity of maintaining the strictest regularity and propriety of con- duct in their intercourse with the Chinese, so as to avoid every cause of offence or dis- agreement ; and laying down general re- gulations for their conduct in all respects.

We anchored, on the 28th*, not many miles distant from the mouth of the river; but the land is here so very low, that the mast-heads of the junks in the river, and the tops of the houses only of the village of Ta-coo, were visible from the ship. It would appear that the ships had entirely outstripped theexpectationsof the Chinese; for they had no idea of seeing them so soon, or that they should not have heard of them in their passage up. Such rapidity of movement never entered into their con- ceptions; for they, in fact, had scarce heard

* During our passage up the Yellow Sea the weather vras remarkably serene and fine, and we experienced none of the fogs which usually hang over the shallower parts of the ocean.

TO CHINA. 23

of them at one end of their empire, when they found them at the other.

The viceroy of this province (Pe-tche-lee) had been for some offence dismissed from his office; and his successor, having not yet left Pekin, it was not until the 4th Aug. that two duly-authorized mandarins of rank (Chang and Yin) came on board to pay their respects to the Embassador, and to give the necessary directions for the dis- embarkation of the presents. To those who had seen, for the first time, the Chi- nese costume, these mandarins had a very strange appearance/ — On a back view, their short jacket, or gown, with their crape petticoats, gave them the look of bulky old women ; but, in confronting them, their clumsy boots and " beards forbade the in- terpretation.^ The fishermen in this vi- cinity, (almost within a hundred miles of the capital,) were literally naked,— even without a fig-leaf. This sort of in- decency we were little prepared to meet, amongst a people who affect to be so outrageously decorous as to discourage the art of sculpture, because it displays too

24 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

distinctly the shape and lineaments of the human body.

Chang was a civil, Yin a military, man- darin ; and they had, as usual, the title of Ta-zhin (or great man) added to their names. They were saluted on approach- ing the ship with seven guns each, and received with a guard. Every body was in lull dress; and it could not be said of this, as of the last embassy, that there was any want of splendour in' this respect. After a conference, in some degree cere- monious, and partly for arranging future proceedings, they partook of a banquet in the captain's cabin, and then returned to the shore. Quang, the Chin-chae, im- perial commissioner, or legate, (as he has been variously termed,) holding a superior rank to either of the others*, being ready to receive the Embassador on shore, his lord-

* The person holding such an office as this, under the great seal, obtains a kind of temporary rank, entitling him, for the time, to take precedence even of the vice- roy of a province, although he may have an inferior button or ball on his cap, and be a mandarin of lower order in the state.

TO CHINA. 25

ship and the gentlemen of the embassy took their leave of us for a while, land- ing in great state on the 9th of August ; the squadron being dressed in colours, the standard flying, the yards manned, and a salute of 19 guns fired from each ship. They proceeded into the river at- tended by a number of Chinese junks, and by our boats in regular order. During the time we remained at this place, presents of bullocks, vegetables, rice, tea, and other refreshments were, according to usage, sent off to the ships, but by no means in great abundance. Several of the bullocks were brought along-side dead, having been drowned in the bottom of the boats, or died otherwise in their passage off. This, how- ever, was not meant as disrespect or incivi- lity, for they make no distinction themselves between an animal that is killed by the butcher, and one which dies naturally ; and in this way they eat dogs, cats, rats, and in fact, all manner of carrion and vermin.

In this respect, therefore, they made no strangers of us, for they gave us their own family fare.

26 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

It was now determined, by the senior officer, that the Lyra, attended by the Investigator, should take a southerly direc- tion in the Gulf, whilst the Alceste and Discovery were to proceed to the north, a certain rendezvous being pointed out for our meeting again, to which the General Hewitt was also directed.

On the llth we weighed, and stood to the north-eastward ; the Discovery in company : the Lyra and Investigator to the southward. On the 13th saw the Sha- loo-poo-tien Islands, extending from north- west by north to west by south, distant about five leagues. We coasted along the western shore of the Gulf of Lea-tong, hi- therto unexplored by any European ship ; and found the land, as we advanced, be- came more and more mountainous. About noon, on the 14th, in latitude 39° 29' N. longitude 120°6'E., the great wall of China opened to the view, bearing north-west by west, its nearest and lowest point being then distant about six or seven leagues ; but we approached it closer in the afternoon.

TO CHINA. 27

Rising from the sea, this immense bar- rier passed over the first or lowest hill, and, mounting the second, was seen stretching to the right, in our point of view, obliquely towards its summit : then on the third and still higher land, it inclined to the left, making an angle with the last range ; and, ultimately ascending the highest and most distant mountain, it was there lost*. The opportunity of surveying this extraordinary structure, which, for more than twenty ages, has been deemed one of the greatest won- ders of the world, afforded, more especially in this unexpected way, from the deck of a British man of war, the most pleasing sensations. Whether it is considered (as it is by some) a mighty effort of human in- dustry, or (as by others) a monument of la-

* It extends for about fifteen hundred miles, and is carried equally over mountains and rivers. — " It is said not to be more than five-and-twenty feet high, flanked with lowers at short distances, but of sufficient breadth for several horsemen to travel easily abreast. Report says, that one-third of the men in China, capable of labour, M'ere employed in its construction, and that it was finished in the space of five years."

28 VOYAGE OF H. M.S. ALCESTE

borious folly, still it is an amazing object, not only from its immense extent, but on account of its great antiquity ; and, from being so seldom visible to an European eye, to have beheld it, even at this distance, was a high gratification of curiosity. Beyond the wall is a remarkable head-land, very much resembling Cape Sicie, a notorious place, near Toulon. The wind heading us here, we stood across, about sun-set, toward the coast of Chinese Tartary ; and on the 15th, in the evening, anchored in a bay * sheltered by winds from the north-west to south, but open to the southward and west- ward, lat. 39° 33' N., long. 121° 19' E., We found here a cascade of water gushing from the rock, which was excellent.

The natives, who most probably had never seen any ships of our class before, crowded down next morning on the beach, but shewed no inclination to come on board. Indeed the people here seemed to be less amphibious than those generally found on sea-coasts ; few fishing or other boats were

* Named Ross Bay.

TO CHINA. 29

to be seen, although a very large and fine harbour, for vessels of twelve or fifteen feet water, extended inland round a point from the head of the bay.

The first officer who wandered up to the villages, about two miles from the water- ing place, was nearly devoured by the cu- riosity of the inhabitants.

Being seated beneath a tree, every part of his dress underwent the strictest scru- tiny, from the shirt-frill to the shoes ; but the anchor-buttons seemed most to attract attention, for they would refuse a dollar, and gladly accept a button, for any thing. The women here had, universally, small feet, all who were seen (and on the first morning every woman in the village made her appearance) being crippled. This we by no means expected to have found so far on the Tartar side of the great wall.

But these people are, in fact, completely Chinese ; the language, dress, and religion of that country evidently prevailing: and they appeared to differ in no material re- spect from those we afterwards saw in the province of Shan-tong, except that they

30 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

were less rude and uncivil. No public officer, or man of any rank, made his ap- pearance to inquire into the motives of our arrival. They were remarkably neat in their houses and gardens ; and there was an air of comfort about their villages, not al- ways to be found in the more civilized parts of Europe. The face of the country is mountainous, and extremely denuded of wood ; not a tree being visible, except in the immediate vicinity of their dwellings. The hills had the appearance of sheep- feeding downs in England; and the soil, as far as we could penetrate, was ex- cellent, and a good deal cultivated ; the holcus sorghum appearing a prominent ob- ject.

Many deep fissures or gulleys were ob- served on the sides of the mountains, oc- casioned by the torrents from the melting snow in winter ; for, although this part of the country is in the same parallel as the north of Italy or south of France, and was now (in August) very warm, yet the wintry

season must be extremely cold, from the

j

general situation and appearance of the

TO CHINA. 31

country, and the bleak winds blowing over the uncultivated wilds to the nlfth- ward of it. -The rocks here were composed of a very ponderous sort of stone, evidently containing a great proportion of iron; and some slate was observed. There must be some town of commercial importance si- tuated at the head of the Gulf, from the number of junks we saw passing up and down. Some matchlocks were noticed at this place, but they were merely in the hands of individuals, as fowling-pieces ; for no military made their appearance. We were unable to procure a supply of fresh beef; — not from want of cattle; but they could not comprehend the value of Spanish dollars, this coin of such universal circula- tion, being melted down, the moment it gets into the hands of a Chinese of Canton. Having completed our water, we weighed on the 19th, and steered along-shore to the southward. At four in the afternoon, we saw a considerable town, lying in a hollow between two red cliffs, the neighbourhood immediately around being rather fine, and better wooded than usual. It seemed a

VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

place of some trade, and a number of junks were lying at anchor in the roads. The nar- row promontory which here extends into the Yellow Sea, and forms the eastern boundary of the Gulf of Lea-tong, was, from its resemblance to a sabre, named the Re- gent's Sword: the south end of it is the ex- treme Tartar point, and was called Cape Charlotte, in honour of her royal highness the princess.

Leopold's Isle lies a little to the north- west of this cape.

The coast along this shore from our an- chorage was not unlike that from Plymouth Sound to the Start. Next morning (20th), steering southerly, we passed through a cluster of islands (nearly opposite and not very far distant from the Mee-a-taus), which were named the Company's Group. The space between them and Cape Charlotte, St. George's Channel ; that through which we had sailed, Leadenhall-Passage ; Ried's Rock and Grant's Island were names ap- propriated on this occasion. Soon after we saw the Mee-a-tau Islands ; and, in the afternoon, passed the city of Ten-cheu-foo,

TO CHINA. 83

at which Lord Macartney, in the last em- bassy, touched. It looks very well from the sea, but the wall seems of much greater 'extent than is necessary for the town. Stood on to the eastward, and entered, in the evening, the bay or harbour of Kin- san-seu or Zew-a-tau, The clear and ac- curate description of it, by Sir Erasmus Gower, enabled the Alceste to proceed in without the least hesitation or difficulty. Here we found the General Hewitt. There are two towns on the peninsula, forming the north-west side of the harbour, and one on the opposite shore. The}7 have no for- tifications here ; at least none deserving that name. The people appeared a gross and boorish set, and we enjoyed the hap- piness of being crowded with them from daylight till dark, when they always went away without the least expression of thanks for civilities shewn them. We here noticed that all the females, high and low, had small feet, which is by no means the case in the southern provinces, especially about Can- ton. At the latter place, among the mid- dling and lower classes, the feet are aJ-

D

34 VOYAGE OF H. M. $. ALCESTE

lowed to remain in their proper state, unless the girl promises to be handsome, in which case she is crippled, in order to give the finishing touch to her beauty, and with the view of preparing her for the man- darin market, where small feet bring a higher price, and she occasionally, also, ob- tains some interest or favour for her parents through the connexion.

They walk, or rather totter along, like one shuffling on her heels only, without putting the fore part of the foot on the ground ; and, in moving quick, they not unfrequently tumble down, when they must get up again the best way they can; for, Chinese gallantry was never observed to extend so far as to afford any help on such an occurrence. Some, more cautious, were seen to move about, supporting themselves by the walls of the houses. Girls, from early infancy to eight or nine years old, were carried about in arms, their feet being too tender, during the first years of this absurd and cruel operation, to enable them to bear their weight ; the four smaller toes being turned down under the .sole, the

TO CHINA. 35

whole Toot and ancle cramped, and the growth impeded by tight bandages, and a small shoe, which is generally again enclosed in a larger one. The pain and irritation excited by this horrid process, as well as the want of exercise, evidently injures their general health, for all the female children had a sickly pallid look. It would be as difficult to account for the origin of this barbarous practice, as that of squeezing the waists of Englishwomen out of all natural shape by stays (an usage which has not long been laid aside); or of " treat- " ing men like mere musical instruments/' and timing them, as such, in Italy.

On shore the people were inhospitably rude, and even the children were encou- raged to be insolent, and to throw stones. One mandarin seized a basket of vegetables from the officers' steward, ordering him and the interpreter (whom he also beat) into the boat, with a number of opprobrious epithets, such as " Foreign Devils ! Spies !" £c. Our relation with the embassy tied our hands at this time.

Finding no refreshment was to be ob- D 2

36 VOYAGE OF H. M. 8. ALCEiTE

tained here, and being told, by some one in authority, that there was a greater proba- bility of getting cattle at another harbour, forty miles farther to the eastward, we pre- pared to proceed thither.

We had by this time been joined by the Lyra ; Captain Hall having surveyed the western and southern shores of the Gulf of Pe-che-lee, which were found to be in general low. One place, remarkable for its height over the adjoining land, had been named Mount Ellis. Here we parted for a time with our worthy friends of the General Hewitt, the companions of our voyage outward ; that ship proceeding to Canton, to complete her ulterior ob- jects. On the 26th we weighed from Zeu-a-tau, and next morning arrived at Oie-aie-oie, a very extensive and secure harbour, the Lyra sounding the passage in. On our entrance a number of man- darins (or, as the seamen termed them, mad marines) came on board to pay their respects ; and an old turret on the face of a hill fired three popguns by way of salute, turning out about a dozen and a half

TO CHINA.

37

of soldiers, who looked a good deal like the stage-military in an old-fashioned play.

Their salute was returned by an equal number of guns from the ships. Here died Mr. Gawthrop, the master, aged forty- three years, (thirty -three of which he had been to sea,) after a severe illness con- tracted at the Cape of Good Hope. He had been distinguished as a good seaman and correct navigator; his career in the navy had also been marked by his abilities as a surveyor of coasts and harbours ; and, although a man of blunt manners, his ho- nesty was sterling. The ship's reckoning had been kept, during his confinement, by Mr. Taylor, the chaplain.

We buried him at sea, near the mouth of the harbour, with military honours ; it not being considered right to inter him among a set of men who would have dis- turbed the grave for the coffin or the clothes, and of whose thievish disposition we had had the fullest example. We lost no time at this place, where nothing sub- stantial was to be found*, but proceeded

* Here parted for Macao the Discovery and Investi- gator. They were towed up, and sailed down again.

VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

to sea on the 29th, standing to the east- ward along the Shan-tong shore. On the 31st we saw the land bearing east; but, the wind being light, anchored in forty-three fathoms. Towards morning we weighed, and the next day anchored again among a cluster of islands, lat. 37° 45' 'N. long. 124° 40' 30" E. on the coast of Corea. The natives here exhibited, by signs and gestures, the greatest aversion to the landing of a party from the ships, making cut-throat motions by drawing their hands across their necks, and pushing the boats away from the beach ; but they of- fered no serious violence. These islands were named Sir James Hall's Group; the main land, of considerable height, was in view, and not far distant. Weighed again, and, the wind being easterly, stood to the southward. On the 2d we were out of sight of any land ; but, the wind changing to the eastward, made sail southerly, and, on the 3d, passed a number of islands, with which the sea was studded as far as the eye could reach from the mast-head ; and, on the 4-th, stood into a fine bay formed by

TO CHINA. 41

in 6'hina for men of merit) ; and the rest we^e civilians. He was ushered into the cabin, where, in preference to chairs, he sat down upon one of the sofa-cushions, placed upon deck. It appearing to be etiquette for the head to be covered, the whole party, consisting of Captains Max- well, Hall, and other officers, conformed to this rule, and, squatting on the cabin- floor, with gold-laced cocked hats on, amid the strange costume of the Coreans, looked like a party of masquers.

edifying conversation was no on this occasion ; for much was said, but unfortunately not one word was understood, the Chinese interpreter we had on board not being able to write his own language ; and some of the Coreans could write, although they could not speak, at least, that dialect which he compre- hended. The old gentleman, however, displayed, by signs, his satisfaction at the mode of his reception ; and, after par- taking of some liqueurs and sweetmeats, took his departure late in the evening from the ship, when he was again saluted,

42 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

his band striking up one of their martial airs.

During the night several boats were an- chored near the Lyra, apparently to watch her motions; and early in the morning the same chief, accompanied by a still greater retinue, was seen embarking at the nearest village, and soon after he visited the Lyra, where he breakfasted. He had in his train some secretaries (or men of letters), who employed themselves in noting down every thing relative to the ships which could be acquired by signs: the complemfigt of men was described by pointing to thiBand then, holdingupten fingers a certain number of times, they counted the guns, examined the muskets, measured the decks, &c. &c. A shot was fired, by express wish, from one of the carronades; and the distance it went, but particularly its recochetting along the surface of the water, seemed to strike them with astonishment. After breakfast, a small party of the officers (Captains Max- well, Hall, Messrs. Clifford, Law, and M'Leod) got into the boats with the view of landing at the village ; and the old chief,

TO CHINA. 43

thinking they were going to the frigate, ac- companied them, his own boats attend- ing. But no sooner did he perceive the course directed to the shore than his coun- tenance fell, and he seemed altogether in a state of great perturbation, making signs that he wished to go to the Alceste, and shaking his head when they pointed to the town.

Having reached the beach, the party landed, and were immediately surrounded by a concourse of people. The old chief- tain hung his head, and clasped his hands in mournful silence ; at last, bursting into a fit of crying, he was supported, sobbing all the way, to a little distance, where he sat down upon a stone, looking back at the officers with the most melancholy aspect. His feelings appeared to be those of a man who imagined some great calamity had befallen his country in the arrival of strange people ; and that he was the unhappy being in whose government this misfortune had occurred.

The natives, who had in the mean time been driven by their soldiers to a respectful distance, stood gazing in astonishment

44 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCEST15

alternately at their afflicted chief and at our party.

Captain Maxwell, seeing what distress it occasioned him, would permit no ad- vance, and, beckoning to him to come back, he arose, and slowly returned.

It was explained as well as could be done that no injury was intended, and that we were friends. He pointed to the sun ; and, describing its revolving course four times, he drew his hand across his throat, and, dropping his chin upon his breast, shut his eyes, as if dead ; intimating that in four days (probably the period in which an an- swer could arrive from Kin-ki-tao, the capital, for he also pointed to the inte- rior) he would lose his head. One of his secretaries, or legal advisers (an amazing long-winded man), squatted on the top of a large stone, now made a harangue of considerable length, the purport of which was evidently against the advance of the strangers. Signs were made for something to eat and drink (thinking hospitality might induce them to invite us into their houses) ; but messengers were instantly despatched

TO CHINA. 45

to the village, who brought down little tables, with mats to sit on, and some re* freshments: this, however, not being the object, they were not accepted, making them understand that it was unbecoming to offer them in that unsheltered manner, on the open beach; and, by way of a hint that this was not our mode of treating strangers, invited them to return to the frigate, where they should dine handsomely, and meet with every respect. The old man, who had observed attentively, and seemed per- fectly to comprehend, the meaning of the signs, answered by going through the mo- tions of eating and drinking with much appearance of liveliness and satisfaction, patting his stomach afterwards, to say all was very fine ; then, looking grave, he drew his hand across his neck, and shut his eyes ; as if to say, " What signifies your good din* " ners when I must lose my head ?"

Perceiving it was impossible to penetrate farther into the interior without violence, which we had neither the right nor the in- clination to use, the party re-embarked.

4(5 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

affecting to be much hurt at the treatment they had received.

The old gentleman followed on board the Alceste, seemingly much dejected, and looking as if ashamed that he could not pay more attention. Wandering about the decks, attempting to converse, by signs, with every one he met, he took a piece of paper from a gentleman who was sitting at his desk, and wrote some characters upon it, which he seemed to require an answer to, but of course none could be given. The paper was retained ; and, being shewn « some months afterwards to Mr. Banner- man, at Canton, turned out to be " I don't " know who ye are ; what business have 44 ye here V It was pretty evident, how- ever, that he was acting from orders which he dared not trifle with, rather than from any inhospitable feeling in his own nature.

He received a Bible, which Captain Maxwell (to whom he seemed very thank- ful for not insisting upon going into the town) presented him with, and carried it on shofe with much care, most likely sup-

TO CHINA. 47

posing it to be some official communica- tion.

Basil's Bay (which this place was named) lies in lat. 36° 9' N., long. 126° 32' E., be- ing, in sea-phrase, about 120 miles high and dry up the country, according to the exist- ing charts.

This afternoon (5th) got under weigh, and stood to the southward, through in- numerable islands, which were all high, rising like mountains out of the sea. None of them seemed of great extent," few mg longer than three or four miles, , as far as we could see, in some de- gree cultivated, the inhabitants generally crowding to the top of the highest emi- nence, where they remained huddled to- gether, and gazing until the ships were passed.

On the 8th, anchored in lat. 36° 26' N., and here we found that the land seen on coining up the Whang Hai or Yellow Sea, and which had been called Cape Amherst, was not the continent. It was now named Alceste Island ; and another range, about twenty in number, running north and south,

48 VOYAGE OF H. M. 3. ALCESTE

rather within it, but outside the Corean Archipelago, was called the Amherst Isles. This morning, after sounding our way in, ' came to an anchor in a most excellent har- bour, named Murray's Sound; the two islands, which principally form it, Sham- rock and Thistle.

Here a number of observations were taken, and surveys made, to ascertain the exact geographical position of the land, and the qualities of the anchorage; and distinguishing names were of course given to remarkable spots, which might serve on future occasions as leading marks. From the top of Montreal, one of the highest, 135 other islands were distinctly counted ; the main land, which seemed very lofty, was seen ranging from north-east to east- south-east, distant about forty miles. From Murray's Sound, Craig Harriet, a very pe- culiar rock, rising in sugar-loaf form from the sea, bears south 39°, west five miles. Another rock (Huntly Lodge), situate on an island, south 40° east, resembles a church with a square tower. Windsor Castle, north 40° 50' east. The direction of the

TO CHINA. 49

sound itself north north-east half east, and south south-west half west; it is a very se- cure anchorage, with excellent holding ground. The intervening spaces between the multitude of isles, generally from one to two, or three, and even four miles across, are all (at least as far as the boats ex- amined) close harbours, and capable of containing, in security, all the navies of the world. They form, in fact, an almost endless chain of harbours, communicating with each other. The rise and fall of tide is here considerable, but the setting of the currents among; such a multitude of isles

o

must, of course, be extremely various. They appear to be all inhabited, and there- fore must possess fresh water. On first landing on Thistle Island, the women fled, with their infant children, over the hill, to a place which we named Eagle Point (from a large eagle being perched on the precipice as we came in), and hid themselves in recesses among the rocks ; Avhilst the men, in a body, but unarmed, waved and halloed to us not to advance, making the usual signal with their hands across the throat,

E

50 VOYAGE OF », M. S. ALCESTE

When they found, however, by repeated visits, that no hostility was intended, and that we were rather inclined to give than to take from them, they became a little more tame, would crowd round the officers to see them fire at a mark, bring them wa- ter to drink, and offer them part of their humble fare to eat; but all this they seemed to do in a perfect spirit of inde- pendence, and not from fear. Then sud- denly, as if recollecting they were acting contrary to orders in holding any corre- spondence whatever with strangers, they would lay hold of some of the gentlemen by the shoulders, and push them away, pointing to the ship ; and this conduct was uniform wherever we touched. We ob- served no fire-arms among them, but some who came on board the Alceste discovered considerable acquaintance with the sword exercise. They cultivate as much grain as they want for their own consumption ; they feed cattle (at least for domestic pur- poses) ; and, as may naturally be sup- posed, from their peculiar and insular situation, they subsist a good deal by fish-

TO CHINA. 51

ing. Of their government, general man- ners, and customs, it would be impossible to speak with any accuracy from so limited an intercourse as we had with them.

China has very little communication with the barbarians of the west, and that is chiefly confined to a particular spot, the port of Canton ; Japan still less, and Corea none at all. A connexion, however, is kept up with China by two or three annual junks from the eastern coast.

What little knowledge we possess of Co- rea is mostly derived from the Jesuits of China, who certainly were not infallible guides in all matters; but in the geography, general literature, and delineation of man- ners and customs, when unconnected with their own superstitions, their labours are entitled to a distinguished place in the re- public of letters, especially when the diffi- culties they had to struggle with are taken into consideration ; but here they -were freed from every motive to deceive, and had only to tell the simple truth.

Corea (or Kaoli) is tributary to the em- peror of China, and sends him triennial Em-

£ J5

52 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

bassadors expressive of its homage. We saw enough, however, to convince us that the sovereign of this country governs with most absolute sway ; and that, occasionally, he makes very free with the heads of his subjects. The allusion to this danger could not have been so constant and uniform, in places so remote from each other, without some strong reason.

The law against intercourse with fo- reigners appears to be enforced with the utmost rigour *. At one of the islands to

o

the north, where we first landed, a Corean, in an unguarded moment, accepted a but- ton which had attracted his attention ; but soon after, as the boats were shoving off, he ran down into the water, and insisted on restoring it, at the same time (by way of reparation) pushing the boat with all his might away from the beach. On almost all occasions they positively refused every thing offered to them. His Corean majesty

* It is said that the crew of a Dutch vessel, a con- siderable time since, wrecked on the eastern coast, were detained in slavery for nineteen years, without being heard of, when some of them managed to get away.

TO CHINAS 53

may well be styled " king of ten thousand isles," but his supposed continental domi- nions have been very much circumscribed by our visit to his shores. Except in the late and present embassy, no ships had ever penetrated into the Yellow Sea ; the Lion had kept the coast of China aboard only, and had neither touched at the Tartar nor Corean side. Cook, Perouse, Bougain- ville, Broughton, and others, had well de- fined the bounds on the eastern coast of this countiy, but the western had hitherto been laid down on the charts from imagina- tion only, the main land being from a hun- dred and thirty to a hundred and fifty miles farther to the. east ward than these charts had led us to believe.

The Jesuits, therefore, must have taken the coast of Corea from report, and not from observation, for their chart is most in- correct, and by no means corresponds with their usual accuracy. The Chinese written characters have found their way here, but they would appear to be confined to the literati, for the common language has no resemblance in sound to the colloquial language of China.

54 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

On the 10th we got under weigh and proceeded on our voyage, standing through the south passage, and made sail to the southward, giving the name of Lyra to an island which bore about east of Alceste's ten or twelve leagues, and distance nearly the same north-westerly from Quelpart). On the llth, sounded in forty-nine fathoms muddy bottom, in lat. 31° 42' N., long. 126° 30' E. On the morning of the 13th we made Sulphur Island, a volcano, situated in lat. 27° 56' N., long. 128° 11' E. Whilst yet at a great distance, we could observe a vo- lume of smoke at short intervals bursting from its crater. We hove-to for some time under its lee, in front of a horrid chasm, from whence the smoke issued, but found it impossible to land, as there was much wind and swell, and the surf broke with tre- mendous violence around its base. The island, which does not appear above four or five miles in circumference, rises pre- cipitous from the sea, except in one or two spots; its height must be considerable, judging from the distance we saw it, per- haps 1,200 feet. The sulphurous smell emitted, even when two or three miles off,

TO CHINA. 55

was very strong. One end of the island displayed strata of a brilliant red-coloured earth, which had been noticed before on some part of the Corean main. One would almost be induced to believe that the mer- cury and sulphur, so abundant in these regions, had combined to give this ver- milion hue to the ground. From hence we stood on to the southward with a strong wind at north by east, which soon increased to a gale. Not having sufficient run for the night, and being totally unacquainted with the coast we were approaching, the ship was put under snug canvass, and hauled to the wind on the starboard tack. On the morning of the 14th we again made sail, and soon observed an island rising like a cone to a considerable height, with that of the grand Lewchew* immediately behind it. The state of the weather would not war- rant our standing closer in with the land than about eight miles, as it now blew fresh from the west-north-west, which made it a lee shore. We hauled to the south-west- ward, and in the afternoon saw breakers

* Generally termed Lekeyo in charts.

56 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

under our lee, the Lyra being closer in, and rather a-head. To have put about with the wind as it then was, would have em- bayed us for the night; for the main body of the island seemed to form, with the peak we had left astern, and the position we were now in, a sort of bight. The Lyra, indeed, could not have tacked in such a swell, and was almost too near to attempt wearing. Both ships, therefore, stood on with every sail they could carry, on the starboard tack, endeavouring to weather the reef. Much anxiety existed, at this moment, on boaYd the Alceste, for the fate of the brig ; the breakers rearing their white tops close to leeward of her, and rolling, with terrific force, upon the rocks. By steady steerage, however, and a press of sail, she at last passed the dan- *' ger, and bore up through a channel formed by the reef and some high islets to the southward, very much to the satisfaction of all concerned; and she was followed by the frigate. We hove-to, for the night, under the lee of the larger island, and the next morn- ing's dawn, the weather being now ex- tremely fine, displayed to our view a rich

TO CHINA. 57

extent of cultivated scenery, such as we had not been lately accustomed to, on the naked coasts of Tartary and China. Rising in gentle ascent from the sea, the grounds were disposed more like the finest country- seats in England than those of an island so remote from the civilized world, — the tranquil, placid, and refreshing look of every thing around, forming a very pleas- ing contrast with the boisterous sea and dangerous condition of the previous day. We were in front of a town, having a sort of line wall, along the water's edge, from whence some fishing-boats approached the Lyra, which by this time had anchored; and on the people being interrogated, by signs, as to the proper anchorage, they pointed round the south-west end of the island, kindly offering, at the same time, some vegetables and fresh water, which they had in their cano s.

We made sail in the direction indicated, carefully sounding and looking out as we advanced along shore, and at night an- chored in eighty-two fathoms. On the 16th, at daylight, we continued our course, and about noon descried a considerable

58 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

town, with a number of vessels at anchor under it, in a harbour, the mouth of which was formed by two pier-heads. In the afternoon, having explored our passage through the adjacent reefs, (the Lyra leading,) we anchored in front of this town. The astonished natives, who most proba- bly had never been visited by an European ship before *, were perched in thousands on the surrounding rocks and heights, gazing on the vessels as they entered. Soon after, several canoes came alongside, containing some people in office, who wished to know to what country we belonged, and the nature of our visit. By the assistance of the Chinese interpreter, whose language some of them understood, they were informed that we were ships of war belonging to the King of England, which had carried an Embassador from that monarch to the Emperor of China; and, after having landed him and his retinue near Pekin, we had, on our return to Canton, where the

* Captain Broughton, after the loss of the Providence in 1797, anchored at this place in a schooner, and re- mained forty-eight hours.

TO CHINA. 59

Embassador was to re-embark, met with violent weather at sea, in which the ship had sprung a leak, obliging us to put in there, in order to repair our damages. To make this story feasible, the well was filled by turning the cock in the hold ; and the chain-pumps being set to work threw out volumes of water on the main deck, to the great amazement of these people, who seemed to sympathize very much with our misfortunes. This ruse was necessary to free their minds from that state of alarm, which must naturally arise on the arrival of ships of such unusual appearance and force, with whose motives they were unac- quainted, and who would justly be consi- dered as the objects of suspicion had no rea- son but mere curiosity been assigned. They returned on shore, and put in requisi- tion a number of carpenters, or people acquainted with the construction of their own vessels, who, at daylight in the morn- ing, hurried on board, bringing with them the rude implements of their art, in order to render what assistance they could in stopping the leak. This offer of kindness

60 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

was, of course, civilly declined by the senior officer, on the ground that we had plenty of good carpenters on board, who were per- fectly equal to the task ; that an asylum was all we required during the time of re- pair, with permission to take on board some fresh provisions and water, of which we stood much in need; and all this we would most cheerfully pay for.

An immediate supply of bullocks, pigs, goats, fowls, eggs, and other articles, with abundance of excellent sweet potatoes, ve- getables, fruit then in season, and even can- dles* and fire-wood, followed this intima- tion ; supplies of the samfe description being sent on board as often as was necessary, for about six weeks, the period of our stay on the island ; those who brought them taking a receipt to shew they had been delivered safely ; but the chief authorities, who sent them, obstinately refusing any payment or remuneration whatever.

Meantime, it being found impracticable for the frigate to swing in the inner harbour

* Their candles are made of unrefined wax, with paper wicks, and give an excellent light.

TO CHINA. 61

at low water, the road in which we lay was accurately examined, and found to be so protected with coral reefs to seaward, and covered by the land to the eastward, as to be completely sheltered, except in a very slight degree at its entrance, and of suffi- cient extent and depth to contain even ships of the line.

On the 20th, we moved up to the head of this road, to a place which we called Baron- pool, where we afterwards rode out the equi- noctial gales (or change of the monsoons).

On inquiring of them where the king was, they said, after some hesitation, 10,000 miles off; and when it was hinted that it was necessary to have a party on shore, such as ropemakers and smiths, where they could have more room to work, and thereby expedite our refit ; they requested this might not be done until they heard from the king, it being an unprecedented case, in which they were incompetent to act with- out orders.

Unwilling to give cause of alarm or un- easiness to a people who seemed so well disposed, and for whose fears and suspi- cions it was but reasonable to make every

62 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

allowance, we remained quietly on board until the 22d, when intimation was received that a great personage intended paying a visit to the commodore.

At the mouth of a little river, in front of which we were anchored, we observed this chief embarking amidst a great concourse of people. He was saluted on his approach with three guns from each ship, and re- ceived on board with every mark of re- spect. He was a man about sixty years of age, with a venerable beard : his dress a purple robe, with very loose sleeves, and fastened round his middle with a sash of red silk : he had sandals on his feet, with white gaiters, not unlike short stockings. His cap (the badge of his dignity) was made of some slight material, twisted neatly into folds, and covered with a light purple- coloured silk. He had a numerous suite with him ; some were official people of dif- ferent ranks, and the rest his personal at- tendants. Here the occasion of our visit was again discussed ; the pumps were set to work to shew the effect of the leak; and pro- mises, on their part, renewed, of every as- sistance.

TO CHINA.

Although they had not heard from the king on the subject of our coming on shore, and notwithstanding it was con- trary to a general rule for any stranger to land upon their coast, yet a few of the officers were always welcome to walk about within certain bounds. After partaking of a very handsome entertainment, he took his leave, the captain promising to return his visit. At one o'clock on the following day the boats were manned, and Captains Maxwell and Hall, with several of the offi- cers in full uniform, proceeded into Napa- kiang*. This harbour is the mouth of a river, at the entrance of which, on each side, are strong-built walls or piers, for a consider- able way up, and inside were anchored several rather large junks. Vessels under the size of frigates could be received very well in this river; — the bottom is soft mud.

* Napa appears to have been the original name of the town; but, since their connexion wkh China, the term Foo, (or city of the first class) has been added ; making Napafoo, Kiang, another Chinese word, signifies river,, and, when coupled with Napa, means merely the river, port, or anchorage of the place.

64 VOYAGE Or H. M. S. ALCESTE

The river widens somewhat immediately above the anchorage, and in it is situated a very pretty little island. At the landino--

o

place the party were met by some of the chiefs, who had been most in the habit of visiting the ships, each of whom, taking one of the officers by the hand, led him through an immense collection of specta- tors to the gate of a public building, where the old gentleman already mentioned at- tended to welcome them into the house. Here an entertainment was served up in a style, which a pastry-cook, or connois- seur in eating, might describe; but which to another might be a difficult task. The utmost good humour, however, prevailed, and a liqueur (chazzi) something like rosolio was passed round in abundance, so that it was quite a man's own fault if he was not cheerful.

Many loyal and friendly toasts, appli- cable to both countries, were given and drank with enthusiasm. As they had hitherto gene- rously supplied the ships with fresh provi- sions, vegetables, and fruit, and constantly re- fused any kind of payment, either in money

TO CHIXA. 65

or by way of barter, the captains thought this a proper opportunity to offer, as a mark of their personal regard, some presents to the chiefs, consisting of various wines, cherry brandy, English broad cloths, a telescope, and other things; and on this ground only they were accepted ; reserving it to them- selves, at the same time, to make what per- sonal return they might think proper to this interchange of friendship.

At the end of this conference, when it was proposed to take a walk over the city, a consultation was held among them ; when the request was mildly declined, (supposed to be through the influence of Buonaparte, a man of dark and peculiar aspect, so named because he was suspected of being the most inclined to keep us at arm's length,) stating, they were afraid some bad people might be induced to treat us with disre- spect. It was evident they had not the power, without higher authority, to admit us to freer access ; for the people themselves, almost without exception, appeared by this time to have no apprehension about our motives. After much hilarity the party

66 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

took their leave, attended in the same way as on landing.

It was worthy of notice how much re- gularity and decorum existed among so many thousands as were here collected. A lane was formed, on the inner side of which the smallest boys (generally kneeling) were placed ; another row squatted behind these ; then the men (those nearest stooping a little); and outside the still taller people, or those mounted on stones, £c.; so that all, without bustle or confusion, might have a complete view of the strangers. The ut- most silence reigned, and not a whisper was heard. Perhaps they had purposely sent their women out of the way, — but the ladies managed (as usual) to outwit them, and to gratify curiosity in defiance of every pre- caution to the contrary. A number of them had either been placed intentionally on the other side of the river, or left there in consequence of all the men having come over to the show; but the boats, in going out, had to pass within a few yards of their pier- head ; when, finding themselves in almost exclusive possession of that bank, they left

TO CHINA. 67

their station on a hill, ran down to the point, and had their peep, whilst their friends on the opposite shore were unable (had it been their intention) to keep'them in the back ground.

About this period a mutual friendship began to exist between us ; confidence took place of timidity; and now, instead of permitting only a few to visit the shore at a time, they fitted up the garden of a temple as a sort of general arsenal for us : the habitations of the priests were al- lotted as an hospital for the sick, whilst other temporary buildings of bamboo were erected for *the reception of our powder, which required airing, and for va- rious stores wanting inspection and repair. The rope-makers, smiths, and other arti- ficers, were established at a convenient spot, about a mile farther along the beach. They continued their usual supplies, bring- ing us even fresh water on board in their boats; and, understanding we required some wood for spars, they felled fir-trees, floated them down the river, and towed

F2

68 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

them alongside, singing their usual boat- song, which had a very plaintive and pleasing effect.

The island of Lewchew* is about sixty miles long and twenty broad ; Napa Kiang, our position, (and within five miles of Kint-ching, the capital,) lying in lat. 26* 14' N., long. 127° 52' 1" E. This is its south-west point, the main body of the island extending from hence north, a little eastwardly.

It is the principal island of a group of thirty-six, subject to the same monarch, and the seat of the government. The natives trace their history back to a period long an- terior to the Christian era ; but their first communication with the rest of the world, when their accounts became fully corro^ borated and undisputed, was about the

* It is called by an infinity of names in books and charts, such as Lekeyo, Lieoo-Kieoo, Lequeyo, and Lieu-Kieu; but the word Lewchew will better express the sound, according to the native pronunciation, than any other. It is often by the lower classes corrupted into Doo-Ckoo.

TO CHINA. 69

year 605, when they were invaded by China, who found them at that time — a time when England and the greater part of Europe were immersed in barbarism — the same kind of people they are at the present day, with the exception of a few Chinese innova- tions; or, at least, they appear to have altered but in a very slight degree. Indeed, it is very obvious that a revolution in man- ners, and alteration of habits, are by no means so likely to occur with a people thus living in an obscure and secluded state, as among those who have a wider intercourse with other nations. The only connexion which the Lewchews have had with their neighbours, and that but very limited, has been with Japan and China, from neither of whom they were likely to receive any example .of change.

The clearest and perhaps the only account given of their history is by Su-poa-Koang, a Chinese doctor or philosopher, who was, in 1? 19, sent as embassador to them *,

Vide Lettres Edifiantes, tome xxiv.

70 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

The following is the substance of his re- port as to their origin : — " The Lewchew " tradition states, that, in the beginning, " one man and one woman were pro- " duced in the great void or chaos. They " had the joint name of Omo-mey-kieou. " From their union sprung three sons and " two daughters ; the eldest of the sons " had the title of Tien-sun, or Grand- " son of Heaven, and was the first king of " Lewchew ; the second was the father of " the tributary princes ; the rest of the " people acknowledge the third as their " progenitor *. The eldest daughter had " the title of Celestial Spirit ; the second, " the Spirit of the Sea. After the death of " Tien-sun, twenty-five dynasties reigned " successively in this country, occupying " (according to their story) a period of " 17,802 years previous to the time of " Chuntein, who commenced his reign in " 1187- This is their fabulous history, of

* It seems rather unaccountable, in this marvellous tradition, that the third son, to whutu no wife is assigned, should have had the most numerous progeny.

TO CHINA. 71

" which they are very jealous ; but nothing " certain was known until 605, before which " the inhabitants of Formosa and the adja- " cent islands were denominated by the " Chinese the Oriental Barbarians. In this " year the emperor sent to examine them; " but, from want of interpreters, no clear " account was obtained. They brought " back, however, some of the islanders to " Sin-gan-foo, the capital of the province " of Chensi, and the seat of the court 6i under the Sony dynasty. SomeJapan- " ese, who happened to be there, knew " the people, and described them as a race ". of barbarians. The Emperor Yang-ti " sent forthwith some who understood " their language to Levvchew, to command " their homage, and acknowledgment of " him as their sovereign. The prince of " Lewchew haughtily replied, that he " would own none as his superior. A " fleet with 10,000 men was now fitted " out from Amoi and the ports of Fokien, " which force, overcoming the efforts of " the islanders, landed at Lewchew; and " the king, who had put himself at the

VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

" head of his people to repel the enemy, " being killed, the Chinese burned the " capital ; and, carrying off 5000 of the " natives, as slaves, returned to China. " From this, until 1 291 , the Lewchews were " left unmolested, when Chit-soo, an empe- " ror of the Yuen family, reviving his " pretensions, fitted out a fleet against them " from the ports of Fokien ; but, from va- " rious causes, it never proceeded farther " than the western coast of Formosa, " and from thence returned unsuccessful " to China. In the year 1372, Hong-ou, " emperor of China, and founder of the " Ming dynasty, sent a great mandarin " to Tsay-tou, who governed in Tchon- " chan, the country being at this period " divided, in consequence of civil disturb- " ances, into the three kingdoms, who, " in a private audience, acquitted himself " with such address as to persuade the " king to declare himself tributary to Cln'na, " and to request of the emperor the inves- " titure of his estate.

" Having thus managed by finesse what " arms had been unable to effect, the em-

TO CHINA. 73

" peror took care to receive, with great " distinction, the envoys sent by their " master. They were accompanied by " offerings of fine horses, scented woods, " sulphur, copper, and tin, and sent back tf again with rich presents for the king " and queen ; among which was a gold " seal.

" The two kings of the other districts, " Chan-pe and Channan, followed the ex- " ample of Chonchan, and their submission " was most graciously received. Thirty- " six Chinese families were sent to live in " Cheouli*, where grants of land were " conceded to them ; here they taught the " Chinese written characters, introduced " Chinese books, and the ceremonies in " honour of Confucius. The sons of the " Lewchewan grandees were also sent to " Nankin to study Chinese, and were edu- " cated with distinction, at the expense of " the emperor.

: That district of Tcfion-chan in which the capital is situated, and where we resided.

74 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

" The reigns of Ou-ning and Tse-chao, " the son and grandson of Tsay-tou, pre- " sented nothing extraordinary ; but that " of . Chang-pa-chi was marked by the re- " union of Chan-pe and Channan with " Tchon-chan into one kingdom, and the " government has since continued in the " hands of a single chief. Lewchew is " said henceforth to have had consider- " able intercourse with China and Japan " in the way of commerce, much to her " advantage, and to have even mediated " between those two powers when misun- " derstandings had occured.

" The famous Tay-cosama, however, " emperor of Japan, whom the Chinese " call ambitious, piratical, irreligious, " cruel, and debauched, because he had " pillaged their coasts, sent a haughty letter " to Chang-ning, commanding him to " transfer his homage from China to Japan, " which Chang-ning as firmly refused. " Notwithstanding the death of Tay-cosa- " ma, the Japanese fitted out a fleet at " Satsuma, made a descent on Lew-chew,

TO CHINA. 75

" took the king prisoner, and carried him " off, having plundered the palace, and " killed one of his near relations, who " also resisted the acknowledgment of " the Japanese. During a captivity of two <; years, Chang-i>ing acquired the admira- " tion of the captors by his unyielding " firmness and constancy in refusing to " swerve from his first allegiance, and " they generously sent him back to his states.

" The Tartar dynasty, soon after this, " was placed, by conquest, on the throne " of China, and made some alteration in the " nature of the tribute to be paid, stipu- " lating that envoys, in future, should be " sent to Pekin only once in two years. " Cang-hi paid much attention to the wel- " fare of Lewchew ; and his memory to " this day is much respected by the peo- " pie. It is said to be nearly a thou- " sand years since the bonzes of the sect " of Fo introduced their mode of worship " into these islands, which has continued " to the present time.

" When they take an oath, it is not be- " fore the statues or images of their idols;

76 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

" but they burn incense, and, placing " themselves in a respectful attitude before '* certain consecrated stones which are to " be seen in various public situations, they " repeat some mysterious words, said to " have been dictated by the divine daugh- " tersof Omo-mey-kieou. They have also " among them a set of holy women, who " worship certain spirits deemed powerful " among them, and who visit the sick, " give medicines, and recite prayers. This " seems to have given rise to the accusa- " tion of an old missionary at Japan, who " said they practised sorcery and witch- " craft. Cang-hi likewise introduced among " them the adoration of a new deity, under " the name of Tien-fey, or Celestial Queen. " Polygamy is allowed here as in China, " but seldom practised. Men and women " of the same surname cannot intermarry. " The king can only take a wife from one " of three great families, who always hold " the most distinguished posts: there is " also a fourth, of the highest considera- " tion, but with which the princes cannot " form an alliance, because it is doubtful

TO CHIXA. 77

*••

" whether that family is not itself of the " royal line. Their chiefs are generally " hereditary, but not always ; for men of " merit are promoted, and all are liable " to be degraded for improper conduct. " The king's revenue arises from his own " domains ; from imposts on salt, sulphur, " copper, tin, and several other articles ; " and from this income he defrays the " expenses of the state, and the salaries " of the great officers.

" These salaries consist nominally in a " certain number of bags of rice ; but they " are paid generally in silks, and various " other necessary articles of clothing and " food, in proportions equal to the value of " so many bags of that grain. All their " interior commerce or marketting is per- " formed by the women and girls at regu- " lated times. They carry their little loads " upon their heads with singular dexterity, " consisting of the usual necessaries of " life and wearing apparel, which they ex- " change for what they more immediately " want, or for the copper coin of China and

78 VOYAGE OF H. M. s. ALCESTE

" Japan *. The men are said to be neat " workmen in gold, silver, copper, and " other metals ; and there are manufactories " of silk, cotton, flax, and paper. They " also build very good vessels, quite large " enough to undertake voyages to China " and Japan, where their barks are much " esteemed. They have adopted the Chi- " nese calendar with respect to the division " of the month and year. This island pro- " duces rice, wheat, and all sorts of vege- '* tables, in abundance. The people of the " coast are expert fishermen, and the sea " and rivers are well furnished with fish. " They are famous divers, and obtain " shells and mother-of-pearl, very much " esteemed in China and Japan.

" They possess many woods proper for " dying; and one tree in particular yields " an oil which is held in great repute. " They have likewise a great variety of " most delicate fruits, oranges, citrons, le- " mons, long-y-ven, lee-tchses, grapes, &c.

* We saw no money among them.

TO CHINA. 79

" Wolves, tigers, and bears, are unknown ; " but they have many useful animals, such " as horses, water-dogs, black cattle, stags, " poultry, geese, peacocks, pigeons, doves, " &c.

" The camphor, cedar, and ebony, are " among the number of their trees ; and " they have also wood well fitted for ship- " building, and for public edifices. They " are represented as disdaining slavery, " lying, and cheating. They are fond of " games and amusements, and celebrate, " with much pomp, the worship of their " idols, at the end and commencement of " the year ; and there exists much union " among the branches of families, who giv6 " frequent and cheerful entertainments to " each other.

The ceremony of installation of the king of Lewchew is thus described: " When " the king dies, his heir sends an embassa- " dor to the emperor, to make known that " circumstance, and to demand his inves- " titure. — Meantime the Lewchews treat as " king and queen the prince and the " princess his wife, though it is not, ac-

80 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

" cording to the Pekin regulations, until " after the installation that they assume " the titles. The emperor either sends " from himself a qualified person to per- " form this ceremony, or grants full powers " to the Lewchew embassador to do so on " his return.

" If the former is determined upon, the " emperor orders the tribunal of ceremo- " nies to find a fit person to sustain with " dignity the majesty of the Chinese em- " pire; and the choice falls on whom they " know the emperor wishes, a second being " named in the event of death or sick- " ness. The emperor, after approving the " choice, admits the embassador to an au- " dience, and gives him the necessary in- " structions, and the presents intended for " the king and queen. The mandarins of " Fokien are ordered to equip a vessel, and " to choose a captain, officers, sailors, sol- " diers, and pilots, sometimes amounting " to three hundred and fifty persons. The " embassador is conducted from court with " great pomp to the capital of Fokien, " where he is lodged in a commodious

TO CHINA. 81

" palace, and treated with much distinc- " tion.

" He is embarked with great state, when,

" after the usual ceremonies to heaven,

" and the goddess Tienfey, they make sail.

" On their anchoring near Napa Kiang,

" the king gives the necessary orders for

" receiving the embassador, with all the

" honours due to the title of Celestial Envoi/,

" that is, to the envoy of the son of hea-

" ven, or the emperor of China. The

" princes and grandees repair to the port

" in their court dresses. A number of ves-

" sels richly ornamented conduct the

" stranger into harbour, where the embas-

" sador and suite lands, and is attended to

" his palace with great pomp by the

" princes and grandees, who take care to

" make such an appearance as to do ho-

" nour to the nation. Every thing is regu-

" lated with respect to the maintenance of

" the embassador and retinue, who are all

" permitted, even to the lowest domestic,

" the privilege of carrying a certain quan-

" tity of money, and ot Chinese merchan-

" dise, to make a little trade. In the time of

G

82 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

" the Ming dynasty, the profits of the " Chinese were considerable at Lew- " chew ; at present only moderate. The " embassador ordinarily piques himself on " having no personal connexion with com-

" merce*.

/

" After having taken some repose, he " repairs to the grand hall, where he finds " a magnificent estrade, on which he seats " himself. On a signal given, at the same " instant, the princes, ministers, and gran- " dees of the first order, placed according to " rank, make the nine prostrations to sa- " lute the emperor. The embassador " stands; and, after the ceremony, makes " a profound reverence. When the chiefs " of the second and third class prostrate " themselves, he also stands, and after- " wards presents his hand to them. On " the performance of the inferior chiefs, " the embassador is seated, but afterwards " presents his hand to them. This ceremti- " nial finished, some grandees on the part

* This is quite in the inflated style of these celestials, whilst in the practice of every thing that is sordid.

TO CHINA. 83

" of the king come to congratulate the em-

" bassador on his safe arrival. The rest of the

" day is spent in repasts, public rejoicings,

" and concerts, in all the cities and neigh-

" bouring villages, and on board the ves-

" sels. On a certain day the embassador

" goes to the temple of the goddess Tien-

" fey, to return thanks for her protection,

" and from thence to the imperial palace,

" where he performs the Chinese ceremo-

" nies, in honour of Confucius. On another

" day the embassador with all his retinue

" repairs to the royal hall, where are the

" tablets of the deceased kings, the heir to

" the throne also appearing, but as a prince

" simply.

" The embassador then performs, in the

" name of the emperor, the Chinese marks

" of respect in honour of the deceased king,

" the predecessor of the reigning prince,

" and also for his forefathers ; and presents

" the odours, the silks, manufactures, and

" silver, sent by the emperor for that pur-

" pose. The prince then makes the nine " prostrations to thank the emperor, and

G2

84 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

" incjiiires after the state of his health. " He next salutes the embassaclor, and " dines, familiarly, and without ceremony, " with him. When all is regulated for " the instalment, the embassador with " all his suite, and a great number of " people, proceed to the palace. The " court is filled with lords and chieftains, " richly attired, and ranged in proper " order. On his entrance, the embassador " is received by the princes, and con- " ducted, with music sounding, to the " royal hall, where there is an elevated " estrade for the prince and princess, and " a distinguished place for the embassa- " dor. All the princes, grandees, niiui- " sters, standing, the embassador reads, " with aloud voice, the imperial diploma; " in which the emperor, after some eulogy " on the defunct sovereign, acknowledges " for king and queen the hereditary prince *' and princess his wife. This declaration * is accompanied by exhortations of the " emperor to the new monarch, to govern " according to law ; and to the people of

TO curxA. 85

" the thirty-six isles to be faithful in their

" allegiance. After it is read, the imperial

" patent is presented to the king, who

" transfers it to the minister, to be re-

" tained among the archives of the court.

" Then the king, queen, princes, &c., make

" the nine prostrations, to salute and thank

" the emperor. The embassador next dis-

" plays the rich presents from his master

" to the king and queen, when the usual

" thanks are returned. Whilst the embas-

" sador reposes himself for a short time in

" an adjoining apartment, the king and

" queen, seated on their thrones, receive

" the homage of the princes, ministers,

" grandees, and deputies, of the thirty-six

" isles. The queen then retires, and the

" king entertains the embassador with

" much splendour.

" Some days afterwards, seated in the

" royal chair, borne by many porters, the

" king, followed by the princes and mini-

" sters, and a brilliant suite, goes to the

" hotel of the embassador.

" The road is ornamented by triumplial

" arches; and at certain distances are

86 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

" found tents, in which are placed fruits, " flowers, and perfumes. Around the chair " of the king are seven young girls, on " foot, carrying his flags and umbrellas. " The princes, ministers, and grandees, " are on horseback, and are emulous to " distinguish themselves, on this occasion, " by their superb dresses and numerous " suite.

" The embassador, at the gate of the

" hotel, receives his majesty with great re-

" spect, and leads him to the grand hall.

" The king now again salutes the empe-

" ror ; after which he honours the embas-

" sador, by offering with his own hand

" wine and tea. This the embassador de-

" clines ; and, returning the cup, he takes

" one for himself, which he does not drink

" until after the king has first drank his.

ft This ceremony finished, his majesty and

" suite return to the palace. He names,

" some days afterwards, an embassador to

" proceed to the court ot the emperor, to

" thank his majesty, and to send him pre-

" sents, a list of which is communicated to

" the Chinese embassador, and he orders a

TO CHINA. 87

" vessel to be equipped, which accompa- " nies that of the Chinese on its return. " At last, the imperial envoy, having deter- " mined the day of his departure, takes " leave of the king ; and some time after- " wards the latter proceeds to the hotel of " the embassador, to wish him a happy " voyage, and to make the usual pro- " strations in honour of the emperor, and " to return him thanks.

" During the sojourn of the embassa- " dor, the king gives him frequent enter- " tainments; sometimes in the grand palace ; " at others in his pleasure-houses ; and, " occasionally, in water parties. The " queen, princesses, and ladies, assist at " these ceremonies. They have music, " dancing, and comedies, with songs, in " praise of the imperial and royal families, " and of the embassador, Sec."

Such is the account of Supoa-Koang ; and, having observed a great part of what he relates to be true, it is but fair and rea- sonable to give him credit for what we had not the opportunity of actually seeing. One thing appears very evident, — that these

88 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

poor islanders have been much cajoled and humiliated, as well as encumbered with a load of ceremonies, very foreign to their nature, by the usurpation of the Chi- nese.

The dress of these people is as remark- able for its simplicity as it is for its ele- gance. The hair, which is of a glossy black, (being anointed with an oleagenous substance, obtained from the leaf of a tree,) is turned up from before, from behind, and on both sides, to the crown of the head, and there tied close down ; great care being taken that, all should be perfectly smooth ; and the part of the hair beyond the las ten- ing, or string, being now twisted into a neat little top-knot, is there retained by two fasteners, called camesashee and ustsathee^ made either of gold, silver, or brass, ac- cording to the circumstances of the wearer; ~

the former of these having a lit le star on the end of it, which points forwaid. This mode of hair-dressing is practised with the greatest uniformity, from the highest to the lowest of the mules, and has a very pleasing effect, whether viewed singly, or when they

TO CHINA. 89

are gathered together. At the age of ten years the boys are entitled to the usisashee, and at fifteen they wear both. Except those in office, who wear only a cap on duty, they appear to have no covering for the head, at least in fine weather. Inte- riorly, they wear a kind of shirt, and a pair of drawers, but over all a loose robe, with wide sleeves, and a broad sash round their middle. They have sandals on their feet, neatly formed of straw ; and the higher or- ders have also white gaiters, coming above the ancle. The quality of their robes de- pends on that of the individual. — The su- perior classes wear silk of various hues, with a sash of contrasting colour, sometimes interwoven with gold. — The lower orders make use of a sort of cotton stuff, generally of a chesnut colour, and sometimes striped, or spotted, blue and white.

There are nine ranks of grandees, or public officers, distinguished by their caps ; of which we observed four. — The highest noticed was worn by a member of the royal family, which was of a pink colour, with

90 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

bright yellow flowers. — -The next in dignity was the purple; then plain yellow; and the red seemed to be the lowest.

On the female attire we could make but little observation. — The higher ranks are said to wear (and some indeed were seen with) simply a loose flowing robe, without any sash ; the hair either hanging loose over the shoulders, or tied up over the left side of the head, the ends falling down again. The lower orders seemed to have petticoats scarcely deeper than a Highlander's kilt, with a short, but loose, habit above.

The island of Lew chew itself is situate in the happiest climate of the globe. — Re- freshed by the sea-breezes, which, from its geographical position, blow over it at every period of the year, it is free from the ex- tremes of heat and cold, which oppress many other countries ; whilst from the ge- neral configuration of the land, being more adapted to the production of rivers and streams than of bogs and marshes, one great source of disease in the warmer lati- tudes has no existence : and the people

TO CHINA.

seemed to enjoy robust health ; for we ob- served no diseased objects, nor beggars of any description, among them.

The verdant lawns and romantic scenery

of Tinian and Juan Fernandes, so well de-

scribed in Anson's Voyage, are here dis-

played in higher perfection, and on a much

more magnificent scale ; for cultivation is

added to the most enchanting beauties of

nature. From a commanding height above

the ships, the view is, in all directions, pic-

turesque and delightful.— On one hand are

seen the distant islands, rising from a wide

expanse of ocean, whilst the clearness of the

water enables the eye to trace all the coral

reefs, which protect the anchorage immedi-

ately below. To the south is the city of Na-

foo, the vessels at anchor in the harbour,

with their streamers flying ; and in the inter-

mediate space appear numerous hamlets

scattered about on the banks of the rivers,

which meander in the valley beneath ; the

eye being, in every direction, charmed by

the varied hues of the luxuriant foliage

around their habitations. Turning to the

east, the houses of Kint-ching, the capital

92 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

city, built in their peculiar style, are ob- served here and there, opening from among the lofty trees which surround and shade them, rising one above another in gentle ascent to the summit of a hill, which is crowned by the king's palace : the inter- vening grounds between Napafoo and Kint-ching, a distance of some miles, being ornamented by a continuation of villas and country-houses. To the north, as far as the eye can reach, the higher land is covered with extensive forests.

At a short distance from this eminence, the traveller is led by a foot-path to what seems only a little wood ; on entering which, under an archway formed by the inter- mingling branches of the opposite trees, he passes along a serpentine labyrinth, every here and there intersected by others. Not far from each other, on either side of these walks, small wicker doors are ob- served, on opening any of which, he is sur- prised by the appearance of a court-yard and house, with the children, and all the usual cottage train, generally gamboling about ; so that, whilst a man fancies him-

TO CHINA. 95

self in some lonely and sequestered retreat, he is, in fact, in the middle of a populous, but invisible, village.

Nature has been bountiful in all her gifts to Lewchew : for such is the felicity of its soil and climate, that productions of the vegetable kingdom, very distinct hi their ^nature, and generally found in regions far distant from each other, grow here side by side. It is not merely, as might be expected, the country of the orange and the lime ; but the banyan of India and the Norwegian fir, the tea-plant and sugar-cane, all flourish together. In addition to many good qua- lities, not often found combined, this island can also boast its rivers and secure har- bours ; and last, though not least, a worthy, a friendly, and a happy race of people.

Many of these islanders displayed a spi- rit of intelligence and genius, which seemed the more extraordinary, considering the confined circle in which they live; such confinement being almost universally found to be productive of narrowness of mind. Our friends here were an exception to the general rule. — Madera Cosyong, one of our

94 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

most constant and intimate friends, ac- quired such proficiency in the English language, in the course of a few weeks, as to make himself tolerably understood. He evidently came on board, in the first instance, as a spy upon our conduct, before they were satisfied that we meant no harm ; and no man was ever better adapted for this duty ; for, as his conciliatory and pleasing manner won upon all hearts, he had therefore a natural access every where, and, had " stratagems or schemes" existed, he of all others was the most likely to have discovered them.

His not assuming his proper character, which was that of a man of some dis- tinction, until his mind was satisfied about us, and his then doing it with frankness, is a proof that such were his original motives. To acquire our tongue, he marked the sound of any English word for the most familiar articles of the table, or terms of conversation, and noted them in symbols of his own language, with their significa- tion, which enabled, him, with slight re- ference to his vocabulary, to manage with-

TO CHINA. 95

out having recourse to the interpreter. If he happened to be walking on shore with any of the officers, he would not lose the sound or meaning of a word because he had not his book with him, but scratched it on the leaf of a tree, and transcribed it at his leisure. His first attempt to connect a sen- tence was rather sudden and unexpected. Rising to go away one evening after his usual lesson, he slowly articulated, " You " give me good wine, — I tank you, — I go " shore/' — He delighted in receiving in- formation, and his remarks were always pertinent. — The map of the world, with the track of the ship from England to Lew- chew, was pointed out and explained to him, which he, as well as others, seemed to trace with peculiar care, and at last, in a great degree, to comprehend, although the subject was, in the first instance, entirely new to them, for they certainly had no idea of the vast extent or figure of the globe. He was gay or serious, as occasion required, but was always respectable ; and of Madera it might be truly said, that he was a gentleman, not formed upon this model, or according to

96 VOYAGE OF II. M. S. ALCESTE

that rule, but " stamped as such by the so- " vereign hand of Nature/'

They all seemed to be gifted with a sort of politeness which had the fairest claim to be termed natural ; for there was nothing constrained, nothing stiff or studied in it.

Captain Maxwell having one day invited a party to dine with him, the health of the king of Lewchew was drunk in a bum- per:— one of them, immediately addressing himself with much warmth and feeling to the interpreter, desired him to state how much they felt gratified by such a compliment ; that they would take care to tell it to every body when they went on shore ; and proposed, at the same time, a bumper to the king of the Engelees. A Chinese mandarin, under the like circumstances, would, most pro- bably, have chin-chinned (that is, clenched his fists) as usual ; he would have snivelled and grinned the established number of times, and bowed his head in slavish submission to the bare mention of his tyrant's name ; but it never would have occurred to him to have given, in his turn, the health of the sovereign of England.

TO CHINA. 97

This superiority of manner brought to our recollection the boorishness of the Chi- nese near the Pei-ho. Some mandarins, who were not of a rank sufficiently high to be entertained in the cabin, were invited to dine with the officers; and some of them, after gnawing the leg of a fowl, would without any ceremony thrust the remains of it into any other dish near them ; and instead of following our example (as the Lewchews uniformly did) in pouring out the wine into glasses, or, in- deed, in any way accommodating them- selves to our style, they would take up, with both hands, the decanter, and, apply- ing it to their greasy mouths, thereby secure the exclusive possession of that bottle.

These islanders are represented as being remarkable for their honesty and adherence to truth, and to this character they appear to be fully entitled. The chiefs informed us that there was little probability of their stealing any thing; but, as iron implements were a great temptation, they begged that none might be left carelessly about. — Although, however, the rope machinery and

H

98 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

other articles remained, for many nights, un- guarded on the beach, and their opportuni- ties on board were numberless, yet not one theft occurred during the whole of our so- journ among them. That proud and haughty feeling of national superiority, so strong! y existing among the common class of British seamen, which induces them to hold all foreigners cheap, and to treat them with contempt, often calling them out- landish lubbers in their OK n country, was, at this island, completely subdued and tamed by the gentle manners and kind behaviour of the most pacific people upon earth. Although completely intermixed, and often working together, both on shore and on board, not a single quarrel or complaint took place on either side during the whole of our stay ; on the contrary, each succeed- ing day added to friendship and cordiality. Although it was, no doubt, infringing on their established rules for strangers to land upon their coasts, yet they granted every possible indulgence, and conceded the point as far as they could ; for their dispo- sitions seemed evidently at war with the un-

TO CHINA. 99

social law. When any of the officers wan- dered into the country beyond the bounds prescribed, they were never rudely repulsed, as in China or Morocco, but mildly en- treated to return, as a favour to those in at- tendance, lest they should incur blame; and, as their appeal was powerful, it was never disregarded.

They erected little temporary bamboo watch-houses or sheds, where those engaged in this duty resided ; and, as we wandered about, handed us over from one post to an- other. In these houses they always pressed the officers to partake of their fare, which was often very good, especially a kind of hung beef, which they have the art of curing extremely well.

They appeared to be much accustomed to these pic-nic sort of parties, having a small japanned box, containing sliding drawers for the various viands, which a boy generally carried, on the end of a bamboo, to any part of the fields where they thought proper to dine.

One man, very often accompanied by Geroo, or (as he was sometimes termed, from

H2

100 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

having a constant smile upon his counte- nance) the laughing mandarin, seemed to carry about with him a constant supply of these refreshments, and chazzi, a liqueur, which led us to believe that he had been deputed for the express purpose of paying attention to our officers.

The sudden vicissitudes of weather to which we had been exposed, by leaving England during extreme cold, and passing suddenly into the torrid zone ; then imme- diately afterwards into the cold raw climate of the southern Atlantic ; meeting with heat again at the Cape of Good Hope ; then crossing in rather a high latitude the chilly SouthernOcean; and, quickly following that, appearing on the burning coast of Java ; might, in fact be said to have exposed us, in the short period of four months, to the effects of three summers and three winters ; and proved, as might naturally be sup- posed, extremely trying to the health of the men. On our arrival at Lewchew, our cases of sickness, though not numerous, were se- vere ; and to the kindness of the natives may , in a great measure, be attributed their

TO CHINA. 101

recovery. They were not only comfortably lodged, but the higher class of people* daily attended, inquiring into their wants, giving additional coogas or eggs, and other delicacies, to those whose cases more par- ticularly required them, and paying a cheer- ing attention to the whole; for theirs was a substantial, not a cold or ostentatious, charity.

A young man, whose case had long been hopeless, died here. On that night a coffin was made by our own carpenters, whilst the natives dug a grave, in the English man- ner, in a small burial-ground under some trees near the landing-place.

Next morning we were astonished to find a number of the principal inhabitants clad in deep mourning (white robes with black

* One elderly man, whom Mr. Fisher (the assistant surgeon), who was always at the hospital, thought to be a physician, wrote something at the desk, which Mr. Fisher concluded was a prescription. On translating it afterwards at Canton it turned out to be a moral maxim, " Let not " the present day be passed in idleness. — The days of our " youth will not return. — By being diligent and studious " we arrive at offices of rank." — (Literally) " We ride " on horseback, and wear embroidered clothes."

102 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

or blue sashes), waiting to attend the fune- ral. The captain came on shore with the division of the ship's company to which the man belonged, and proceeded to the garden where the body lay. His messmates bore the coffin, covered with the colours; the seamen ranged themselves two and two, in the rear of it ; next were the midshipmen ; then the superior officers ; and last of all the captain, as is usual in military cere- monies of this kind. The natives, who had been watching attentively this arrangement, and observing the order of precedence to be inverted, without the least hint being given, but with that unassuming modesty and delicacy which characterize them, when the procession began to move placed themselves in front of the coffin, and in this order marched slowly to the grave. The utmost decency and silence prevailed whilst the funeral service was performing by the chaplain, although there was a con- siderable concourse of people ; and after- wards they marched back, but in different order, to the garden. Here they took the directions for the shape of a stone to be

TO CHINA. 103

placed at the head of a tomb, which, as a mark of respect, they had already begun to erect over the grave. This was soon finished ; and the shape of the English let- ters being drawn with Indian ink, they, notwithstanding the simplicity of their tools, cut out with much neatness the following epitaph, which, when explained to them, seemed to be highly gratifying : —

Here lies buried

Aged Twenty-One Years, William Hares, Seaman, Of His Britannic Majesty's ship Alceste.

Died Oct. 15, 1816. This Monument was erected

By the King

And Inhabitants

Of this most hospitable Island.

The day after the interment they went to the tomb, with their priests, and per- formed the funeral service according to the rites of their own religion. There is not an act of these excellent and interesting people which the mind has not pleasure in contemplating and recollecting. Not sa- tisfied with having smoothed the path of

104 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

death, they carried their kind regards even beyond the grave !

Of our religion they could form no idea, nor was it possible to explain it to them. They seemed at first to consider us as wor- shippers of the sun or moon, and, of course, our astronomers as high priests, from seeing them busied about an observatory which had been erected in our garden, with a large telescope for the examination of the hea- venly bodies.

One Sunday a number of them were ob- served, during divine service, peeping through the quarter-deck ports, but were not noticed in sufficient time to invite them in.

Captain Maxwell's horse, in riding one morning to inspect the progress of the ar- tificers, stumbled, and fell among some rocks ; and by this accident the fore finger of his left hand was not only fractured, but badly dislocated. Some of his Lewchewan friends, who were near him, ran to the next village for one of their surgical profes- sors. He soon arrived, and, after much sa-

TO CHINA. 105

Jutation, proceeded to examine the injury, (the dislocation had in the interim been re- duced by the coxswain pulling upon it,) and then stated that he would come on board the ship, whither the captain was then proceeding, in an hour, with the ap- plications he thought necessary for it. At the 'time appointed, one of the chiefs, with this surgeon, and another more in the cha- racter of a physician, and their retinue, some of them bearing a medicine-chest, made their appearance alongside. The in- jury being again examined, (and it having been previously decided that they were to have the management of the cure, under surveillance', in order to observe how they would act,) a fowl was killed with much form, and skinned, and a composition of flour and eggs, with some warm ingredients about the consistence of dough, was put round the fractured part, (which had the effect of retaining it in its position,) and the whole enclosed in the skin of the fowl. As this fowl appeared to have been sacrificed, its skin being applied to enclose the whole

106 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

was most probably meant to act as a charm.

The manual part finished, the physician proceeded to examine the general state of health, and the pulse appeared to be his chief, and indeed only guide, in this re- spect. The arm was laid bare to the shoul- der, and he applied his fingers with great attention, and with as much solemnity as ever issued from Warwick-lane, to the course of the artery, and at all parts of the arm where he could feel it beat, to ascer- tain whether it was every where alike; and, lest there should be any mistake in this point, the other arm underwent the same investigation ; the whole party looking all the while extremely grave. Having now decided as to the medicines necessary on this occasion, his little chest was brought forward, with his pharmacopoeia, and a sort of Clinical Guide, directing the quantity and quality of the dose.

His chest was extremely neat, its exterior japanned black, and a number of par- titions in it, again subdivided, so as to

TO CHINA. 107

contain about a hundred and eighty dif- ferent articles (quite enough in all con- science, even among the greatest hypo- chondriacs and drug-swallowers) ; but they were fortunately all simples, being a coU lection cf wood-shavings, roots, seeds, and dried flowers of his own country. There appeared also some ginseng, a product of Tartary and Corea, much in vogue in these parts. Small portions of the specified articles were measured out with a silver spatula, and put up in little parcels, and directions were now issued as to the mode of boiling and drinking the decoction. Next day they were highly delighted to hear the good effect of their medicines, though they had never been taken (as many a poor doctor is cheated by cunning patients) ; and a new application was brought for the finger, termed a fish poul- tice, so composed as to look, and indeed to smell, something like currant-jelly.

Having carried on this scheme for a few days, they were then informed that the finger was so much better as to render their attendance unnecessary any longer ; and,

108 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

as a reward for their services, they were presented with some little articles, and among others, as an addition to the chest, some spirits of hartshorn, displaying to them its effect on the olfactory organs, with which they were quite astonished and pleased; some spirits of lavender and oil of mint, they also considered a great acquisition. The physician, more espe- cially, seemed to be a very respectable man, and was treated as such by those about him. Their practice seems to be a good deal derived from the 'Chinese, for their notion of the circulation of the blood, or rather their having no correct notion about it, is the same. Neither have they any idea of anatomy from actual observa- tion, and, of course, the greater operations cannot be undertaken ; one man only was examined by Mr. Rankin, who had lost his arm, and his stump was rather a rude one. Some corn was left with them, which they promised to cultivate ; and fortunately Captain Hall had some English potatoes, which were likely to be productive, and the mode of planting them was particularly

TO CHINA. 109

described. Their fields were extremely neat, and their furrows arranged with much regularity by a plough of a simple con- struction drawn by bulls, assisted occasion- ally by the use of a hoe ; and they prac- tised irrigation in the culture of their rice. A young bull of English breed (though calved on the island) was presented to the chief authorities by Captain Maxwell, leaving them also a cow (having two on board,) so that it is possible the next visitors who touch at Lewchew may find a larger, though they cannot find a better, race of cattle.

The mode of dancing of these people may, strictly speaking, be termed hopping; for they jump about upon one leg only, keeping the other up, and changing oc- casionally, making a number of extrava- gant motions, and clapping with their hands, and singing at the same time their dancing song. According to our notions, this was their only ungraceful action. A .number of them thus engaged, more espe- cially when joined by the officers, (who must needs acquire their style,) formed

110 VOYAGE OF H. M. *. ALCE6TE

rather a grotesque assembly. Thev at- tempted our mode of country dancing, and managed (considering it was necessary to make use of both feet) tolerably well.

The Lewehews are a very small race of people, the average height ot the men not exceeding rive feet two inches at the utmost. Almost the whole animal creation here is of diminutive size, but all excellent . in their kind. Their bullocks seldom weighed more than 330lh.. but they were plump and well-conditioned, and the beef vrrv

•/

fine : their goats and pigs were reduced in the same proportion, their poultry seeming to form the only exception. However small the men might be, they were sturdy, well-built, and athletic. The ladies we had no opportunity of measuring, but they ap- peared to be of corresponding stature.

These islanders, most probably, ori- ginated from Japan or Corea, having a good deal of the Corean lineaments, but rather milder, and softened down. They are obviously not of Chinese origin, having nothing whatever of that t/rof$i/ and elon- gated eye which peculiarly distinguishes

TO CHINA. Ill

the latter ; nor would it seem that the few Chinese and their descendants settled on the island freely mixed with the native Lew- chews, the national features and the natu- ral disposition of the two people being per- fectly distinct, and differing in every re- spect. Neither have they any mixture of Indian blood, being quite as fair as the southern Europeans ; even those who are most exposed being scarcely so swarthy as the same class of society in Spain or Portugal.

The Chinese language is learnt by a few, as the French is in our own country; but the Bonzes, who are also schoolmasters, teach the boys their native language, which is a dia- lect of the Japanese, and is rather soft and harmonious; and they have nothing of that hesitation in utterance, or appearance of choking, which is observed in the former, often requiring the action of the hands to assist the tongue *. The orders and records of government are in their own, or Ja-

* In this respect the Chinese seem to resemble what is said of a Frenchman : — That if his hands are tied he cannot speak.

112 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

panese character; but they have books in the Chinese language.

They burn the bodies of their dead, and deposit their bones in urns, (at least in our neighbourhood,) in natural vaults, or caverns of the rocks along the sea-shore. The graves of the few Chinese residents here are formed in their own style.

Crimes are said to be very unfrequent among them, and they seem to go perfectly unarmed, for we observed no warlike in- struments of any description ; and our guns, shot, and musketry, appeared to be objects of great wonder to them. It must have been the policy of the Chinese to disarm them, for it appears that, in the first instance, they defended themselves nobly against their attacks, as well as those of the Japanese. Not even a bow or arrow was to be seen; and, when they observed the effect of fowling-pieces in the hands of some of the gentlemen, they begged they might not kill the birds, which they were always glad to see flying about their houses; and if we required them to eat, they would send in their stead an additional quantity of fowls on board every day. — An order

TO CHINA. 113

was immediately issued to desist from this sort of sporting.

The people of Tatao and the north-east islands are reported to have been in pos- session of books previous to the Chinese attack on Grand Lewchew,and to have been even more polished than in the principal island. Tatao and Ki-ki-ai are said to pro- duce a sort of cedar, termed kien-mou by the Chinese, and iseki by the inhabitants, which is considered incorruptible, and brings a great price, the columns of the palaces of the grandees being generally formed of it.

The vessels of these islands, in the gene- ral appearance of their hulls and plan of rig- ging and sails, are precisely the same as we had observed throughout the whole of our track from the Gulf of Pe-che-lee lo Napa- kiang. They had, in common use, canoes hollowed from the trunk of a tree, much the same in shape as those of other parts of the world where they are employed, and of sufficient size to contain easily from six to eight or ten people. For purposes of heavier burden, they had boats strongly built, and rather flat-bottomed.

i

114 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

In these boats they brought our water, bullocks, and other stock, on board. The water was not sent in barrels, but in open tubs, and baled from these into our casks.

During our stay here, the Lyra was de- tached by the senior officer, in consequence of the people having told us that there was a closer and more secure harbour to the northward, to circumnavigate and examine the coast of the great island ; which service Captain Hall performed, and returned to Napa-kiang, in seven days.

The state of cultivation was represented as very fine on a small island, which was named by Captain Hall Sugar-loaf Island; and a town was observed, which had a very handsome appearance from the sea ; trees, as usual, filling up the interstices between the houses, which rose from the water-side to the foot of the high land.

About twelve miles easterly from this island they anchored near an islet, which was named Herbert's Isle ; and from thence proceeded in the boats to examine what seemed to be the mouth of a river ; here it is reported there were not less than ten fathoms

TO CHINA. 115

of depth within it, the whole passage being narrow, and the direction tortuous ; in short they here discovered a harbour, not inferior in any respect, and in some superior, to Port Mahon, in Minorca. The banks of this winding arm of the sea are high rocks, overgrown with climbing plants and flowers. It has, moreover, the advantage of Mahon of having a second outlet or communication with the sea : in short, it was discovered that an island in the mouth of a deep in- dent in the coast of the main island formed a circumnavigable passage, with safe an- chorage in every part of it, and a sufficient depth of water for the largest class of ships, with good holding ground. It was named Port Melville.

In glens, formed by the opening of the rocks on its right bank, were observed seve- ral little villages, prettily situated ; and the inhabitants were found to be the same civil creatures as on every other part of the island.

The north-eastern parts of the great Lew- chew would appear not to be so populous, and therefore not so much cultivated, as

i 2

116 VOYAGE OF H. M. S.ALCESTE

the south-western side, or Cheouli, a greater extent of forest land being noticed ; and on the western side also appeared to be the best and safest places for an- chorages.

A few days previous to our leaving the island, intimation was sent that a man of the first distinction (said to be one of the princes, and nearest heir to the crown) in- tended paying a visit to the ship. He was carried down to the mouth of the little river, opposite to the anchorage, in a close chair, or palanquin, amidst an immense concourse of people, who had nocked from all parts to this spot. — He embarked in great state, in their own boats, with their flags flying ; and was saluted, on his approach to the ships,by seven guns from each, and received on board the Alceste with every possible respect and attention ; the rigging being manned, and the officers in full dress. — He was above the usual size of the Lewchews, and had rather more of an European counte- nance. His robe was of a dark pink-co- loured silk ; the cap rather lighter, with bright yellow flowers on it. In his mien

TO CHINA. 117

and deportment there was much dignified simplicity ; for, although his carriage was that of a man of high rank, it was totally unmixed with the least appearance of hauteur; and his demeanour was, altogether, extremely engaging.

As he passed along the decks, his own people saluted him by kneeling ; clasping the hands before their breasts and bowing the head. He examined minutely every thing about the ship, and seemed equally pleased and surprised with all he saw. After joining in a sumptuous collation in the cabin, he took his leave with the same honours as when he came on board, having previously invited the captain and officers to an entertainment on shore. The day appointed for this feast happen- ing to be the 25th of October, the anni- versary of our venerable Sovereign's ac- cession to the throne, a royal salute was fired, at sun-rise, by both ships ; at noon the standard was hoisted, the ships dressed in colours, and another salute fired ; after which the boats, with their flags flying, containing the captains and every officer

118 VOYAGE OP H. M. S. ALCESTE

that could possibly be spared, proceeded into Napa-kiang.

They were received precisely as on the former occasion, except that the number of grandees was greater, and there ap- peared a higher degree of state. The prince received the party at the gate, and conducted them into the hall. Three tables were laid close to each other ; the first for the great man and the captains, the second for the superior officers, and the third for the young gentlemen. This prince, or chief, did the honours of his own table, occasionally directing his attention to the others; but a man of some rank was added to each of them, for the purpose of seeing the strangers properly treated, as well as to pass and proclaim the toasts; and for this purpose they were allowed to be seated, all the rest standing round the room, but, at the same time, joining heartily in the general mirth and glee. The healths of our King and Royal Family were toasted with much respect, and the anniversary of his Majesty's accession was a day of real jubilee atNapafoo. The sovereign of Lewchew,the

TO CHINA. 119

queen and princes, were proposed by our party ; whilst they (never deficient in po- liteness) toasted the wives and children of their friends, the Engelees. In dining on board the ship, Captain Maxwell had given confectionary to those who were married, in parcels, proportioned to the number of children they had; and on this occasion they returned the compliment; in the dis- tribution of which, it was quite amusing to see some of the young midshipmen ac- quiring at once wives and large families.

Some personal presents from the cap- tains were on this day offered to the chiefs, consisting of various articles as be- fore, adding some damask table-cloths, and elegantly cut decanters and glasses, which they seemed highly to admire. Specimens of their manufactures in cloth were sent on board the ships in return.

At their departure, the prince attended the party nearly to the landing-place; and, when about to take his leave, two small additional presents (at the suggestion of Captain Hall) were given to him, as memo- rials. One was a very neat pocket thermo-

120 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

meter (the use of the larger ones having been explained to him on board), and the other a cornelian seal set in gold, with a ribband attached to each : they were hung round his neck ; and the ceremony, being in public, had the appearance of investing him with an order, with which he seemed to be highly gratified. As the boats shoved off from the landing-place, the crews gave them three cheers, which they returned in their own style of salutation. They had sent on board the ship a great number of coloured paper lanterns, for the purpose of illuminating her at night, in honour of our King. This was done after dark, the lanterns being regularly ranged along the yards and rigging, the main-deck ports il- luminated, sky-rockets thrown up, and blue lights burnt at the yard arms, bowsprit, and spanker-boom ends, with a feu-de-joie of musquetry, thrice repeated round the ship. The whole had a very brilliant effect from the shore, where thousands of the natives had collected to view the scene. About this time the boatswain's wife of the Alceste, who had been a good deal on shore,

TO CHINA. 121

and was much noticed by the higher class of natives, had a splendid proposal made, by a deputation from some great man, to remain behind; a grand house to live in, and all manner of finery and attentions; great offers were also made to the boat- swain to induce him to comply with this bargain ; but (after two days' considera- tion) the negotiation was broken off on the part of the husband, who refused to part with her. These proposals most likely came from the king, for it is not probable that any subject could have entered into a treaty of this sort.

A young lady of high rank, who had a great curiosity to see this Inago-Engekse, or Englishwoman, was brought to her one day when she was quite alone, and walked round her for a considerable time, eyeing her with great appearance of surprise.

The marriages of this country are not managed blindfold, as in China; but the young people are permitted to make their own choice, and to communicate without reserve. In China they would seem to have a superstitious dread of all foreign

122 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

women ; so much so, that any ship, having one or more on board, must land them at the Portuguese settlement of Ma- cao, before they are permitted to pass up the river ; as they fancy that their putting foot on the celestial soil would be attended with some great calamity to the country, or per- haps rather that their unrestrained liberty would be a bad example for their secluded females.

The rocks about the coasts of Lewchew were all of the coral kind ; and immense masses, some assuming very odd shapes, were seen every where along the sea-shore ; and some of the same formation were found on the higher land, and at some distance from the beach, whose situation is not easily to be accounted for, unless we sup- pose them to have been elevated by the force of volcanic fire.

The period of our departure being now fixed, all the stores were embarked on the evening of the 26th October. The next morn- ing, as the ships unmoored, the Lewchews, as a mark of respect, arrayed themselves in their best apparel, and, proceeding to the

TO CHINA. 125

temple, offered up to their gods a solemn sacrifice, invoking them to protect the En- gclees, to avert every danger, and restore them in safety to their native land ! In the manner of this adieu there was an air of sublimity and benevolence combined, by far more touching to the heart than the most refined compliment of a more civi- lized people. It was the genuine benignity of artless nature, and of primitive inno- cence. Immediately following this so- lemnity, our particular friends crowded on board to shake hands, and say " Farewell \" whilst the tears which many of them shed, evinced the sincerity of their attachment. Even hard-faced Buonaparte was not un- moved ; and, as the ships got under weigh, they lingered alongside in their canoes, dis- playing every sign of affectionate regard.

We stood out to seaward ; and, the breeze being favourable, this happy island soon sunk from the view ; but it will be long re- membered by all the officers and men of the Alceste and Lyra ; for, the kindness and hospitality of its inhabitants have fixed, upon every mind, a deep and lasting im- pression of gratitude and esteem.

124 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

Standing between what had been termed Lyra's Keef (where she had been so nearly lost) and the Southern Isles, we pursued our course to the south-westward. On the next day we saw Typinsan, one of the most considerable of the Lewchewan group ; and, on the 30th, descried Botel Tobago Xima, very much resembling, in its general features, St. Helena. Passing to the north- ward of it, we discovered, on the same day, the island of Formosa. The south-east part (that which we saw) is extremely high and mountainous, as, indeed, the whole of it is represented to be ; and with the wind at N. E., as we then had it, and blowing strong, the surf rolled in with dreadful force upon the reefs extending from it *. Be-

* The western parts of Formosa are under the domi- nion of the Chinese, but the eastern shores are still oc- cupied by the aboriginal inhabitants. They are stated to be in a very uncivilized condition ; that they can run with the swiftness of a greyhound ; and are such expert marks- men with the bow and arrow, as to kill a pheasant on the wing with the greatest certainty. The water of the island is considered most insalubrious.

Their mode of courtship is rather odd : When a young man fixes his affections, he hovers about the house where the object of his regard resides, and plays upon some inu-

TO CHINA. 125

coming too dark to see our way between the south end of the island, and the rocks of VeleRete, we bore up, until, by our run, we were fairly to the southward of this danger, and then hauled to the wind on the star- board tack. The passage across the Straits of Formosa was boisterous in the extreme, blowing a severe gale at N. E., with that sort of tumbling sea felt in many other parts of the world, and which is infinitely more trying to ships than the long expansive swell of the wider ocean. The Alceste was a good deal injured, and the Lyra had nearly foundered, the fore-top sides giving way, and sustaining other damage. On the 2d November saw the grand Lemma ; and on the same day pushed up to the an- chorage, at the island of Lintin, without a pilot. Here we remained unnoticed for some days, when a number of men-of-war

sical instrument, which signal she answers by coming out to meet him, and settle the matter, provided he is to her taste; should it be otherwise, she takes no notice, the gentleman whistles in vain, and must try his fortune else- where. The bridegrooms here transfer their filial duty to their fathers-in-law, and in fact are considered, after th« marriage, as part of the wife's family.

126 VOYAGE OF H. M. 8. ALCESTE

junks anchored near us, and a mandarin (their admiral) came on board, who, after the usual interrogatories, promised that a pass and pilot should be sent to us, to pro- ceed up the river. In the time of Lord Anson, the Typa, near Macao, was of suf- ficient depth to receive the Centurion, a sixty-gun ship ; but, at the present day, no frigate of large size can with propriety enter it, having become much shallower from the deposition of mud. To have brought up the provisions and stores for the use of the ships, which had been left at that place, (subject to the conjoined impositions of the Chinese and Portuguese,) in hired vessels, would have been expensive: the Lyra, therefore, was ordered down for that purpose.

We soon began to experience the invete- rate ill-will of the viceroy, Tsong-tou, of Can- ton, who, well aware thatthe object of theem- bassy was in a greatmeasure directed against his extortions, and those of his myrmidons, on our commerce, naturally entertained the most perfect hatred and detestation for any ship attached to such a mission. The peo- ple of Lintin (no doubt by the influence

TO CHINA. 127

of their superiors) dammed up the course of the water ; and it was not until sentries were placed along the little stream, to keep it clear, that we were enabled to fill our casks. The Comprador, or the person em- ployed to supply ships with provisions and necessaries, could only smuggle himself on board after dark ; and then hurrying away trembling, for fear of being found near us at daylight with his boats. His master, (or partner,) Aming, had very lately been tortured, imprisoned, and fined ; or, to use the Chinese phrase, squeezed in a very heavy sum, on suspicion that he knew of the intention of the captains of some Chi- namen to proceed into the city, in order to present a memorial to the viceroy ; and that he had not given information of this cir- cumstance, that it might have been pre- vented. It seems the viceroy, in malicious feeling to the General Hewitt, because she had been connected with the embassy, would not permit her to load, under pretence that she was a tribute ship ; that she must wait to carry back the unaccepted presents, and of course could have no room

128 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

for teas. Had it even been intended that she should carry back the presents (which was not the case, as, in the event of their not being received, they were to be otherwise disposed of), still they would not have oc- cupied the tenth part of her tonnage; and, besides all this, it was no business of the viceroy to interfere with the arrangements about the unaccepted tribute. Captain Campbell, therefore, attended by a party of his brother officers, and some of the gentle- men of the factory, on finding other mea- sures vain, proceeded to make a personal application to the viceroy, and to present a memorial, stating the great hardship and unreasonableness of this prohibition. This bold manoeuvre, however, was unattended with success; and so far from the memorial being received they were treated with every indignity, the people spitting in their faces. The General Hewitt was guarded with more rigour than ever, being surrounded by war junks ; and, previous to our arrival, Capt. Colin Campbell, of the navy, who, being unemployed, accompanied his brother in this voyage, with all who happened to be

TO CHINA. 129

on board, were detained prisoners, at the second bar, for more than five weeks.

On the llth another mandarin came on board, who disclaimed any knowledge of the former, or what he had promised, stat- ing, through the medium of an interpreter, (who seemed himself a man of some little consequence, and who evidently enjoyed peculiar satisfaction in repeating whatever was galling to the feelings of a Briton,) that he had been making fools of us about sending a pass ; that the Embassador had been sent away in disgrace from Pekin ; that he must soon arrive here, when he would be immedi- ately senton board, and dismissed with all the English ships from the country, and so forth ; adding that we must remain at our present anchorage, not attempting to pass up the river ; and even, during our stay here, il would be necessary to have a security-mer- chant to answer for our good conduct. The latter part of this rhodomontade about a se- curity-merchant for the king's ship, Captain Maxwell begged might not be repeated, unless they wished to be thrown overboard ; quietly telling them he would wait a reason-

130 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

able time longer for the viceroy to send down a pass, or chop, to proceed up the river, which he was desirous of doing for two reasons : 1st, The ship required caulk- ing and other repairs, which it was impos- sible to accomplish in her present unpro- tected and exposed situation. Next, the Lion, in the former embassy, had been admitted to a place of security ; and the emperor having, in the first instance, ex- pressed his pleasure that the Alceste should have the same reception, it could only be considered an indignity to be excluded ; and would be a bad precedent. They now became a little more cool ; and, after some desultory conversation, took their leave: but previously Captain Maxwell insisted on their admitting (to exclude them from all shuffling), that, if a pass was not sent down in 48 hours, he was to take it for granted that leave was given.

That day arrived without the least notice being taken of us ; and the pilot who had come on board, in the hope of carrying us up, sneaked off in the dark, saying it was danger- ous for him to have any connexion with us.

TO CHINA. 131

Against an open attack a British com- mander can never be at a loss how to act ; but the present was a most trying and em- barrassing case, and imposed a very heavy and serious weight of responsibility. That His Majesty's ship should be supplied by an unauthorized individual under cover of night, and by stealth, was not to be endured ; to be denied admission to the harbour, and detained in an unprecedented manner, at this season of the year, in an open and dangerous road, could not be viewed but as an act of absolute hostility ; and to all this were added sneering insult and contempt, of the most mortifying kind.

To have waited longer for an explicit answer would have been vain ; for a Chi- nese who could so far forget himself, even in the most common occasions of inter- course, as to give a frank, ingenuous, and undesigning reply to any communication, would be considered by his own country- men a fool, and by foreigners a prodigy.

They are a people, who, by early education and constant habit, are manceuwers, and al- ways enjoy a much higher satisfaction in K 2

132 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

obtaining any purpose by fraud, trick, and overreaching, than by the most direct, can- did, or honourable means ; and afford a strong exemplification of the distinction be- tween low cunning and true wisdom.

On the other hand, the king's representa- tive was in their power, and this circumstance rendered a decision on the case still more dif- ficult ; but it was equally clear that the go* vernment which attempted to dishonour- the flag would not respect the Embassador ; and experience has fully proved, that the tame submission of other nations has only added to the arrogance, and fostered the insolence of the Chinese. This, perhaps, was the impression on Captain Maxwell's mind, when he got under weigh on the 12th; but not a word was expressed. The ex- amination, however, of the locks and flints on the carronades by the gunner, with a few other minor preparations, were hailed as aus- picious omens, and excited themostpleasing hopes ; for the Chinese have no foreign friends ; every seaman, whether of the navy or merchant's service, from experience of their faithless conduct, considering himself

TO CHINA. 133

in a state of warfare from the moment he enters their territory. We got up as far as Lankeet Flat that night, without a pilot; but Mr. Mayne, the master, who knew the ground, volunteered to carry up the ship as far as she could go. Here we anchored for the night, and spoke the Cornwall India- man, bound homewards.

About two o'clock P.M. next day we again weighed, the flood tide serving, and beat up towards the Bocca Tigris, or Bogue, then distant a few miles. The Bocca Tigris is the mouth of the principal branch of that river, on which Canton is situated, and where it is contracted to about the breadth of the Thames at London ; but the banks are formed by high land, more especially on the east side.

The fortifications on this pass were for- merly insignificant, and allowed to remain in a very dismantled state; but lately they have been repaired and strengthened with much care ; an additional battery of forty guns being built, rather farther up, and on the same side with old Annan-hoy ; a hun- dred and ten pieces of cannon, of different

134 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. XLCESTE

calibres, being at present mounted on these forts, including that of the island of Wang- tong opposite, the whole three being within half-gunshot of each other, with a garrison at this time of about 1,200 men.

Chumpee, which lies in a corner farther down, has about twelve or fourteen guns ; but a ship may keep out of reach of them. As we advanced, some war-junks formed a line off Chumpee, and were soon after joined by several more, making altogether seventeen or eighteen. They carry, on an average, six guns, with from sixty to eighty men each. About this time (five o'clock) the same loquacious linguist before men- tioned came on board from the mandarins, and desired, in a high and domineering tone, that the ship should be directly anchored, and that, if we presumed to pass up the river, the batteries would instantly sink her ; availing himself, at the same time, of that favourable opportunity, to express his per- sonal sense of low consideration for us, and plainly telling the captain he thought him very impertinent. The latter calmly ob- served that he would first pass the batteries,

TO CHINA. 135

and then hang him at the yard-arm, for daring to bring on board a British man-of- war so impudent a message : his boat was then cut adrift, and himself taken into cus- tody. The junks now commenced firing blank cartridge, which we returned with three guns from the ship, affecting to consider this as .a mere salute. On the next tack we passed close to these war- riors, who remained quiet until we got inside of them, and opened Chumpee ; when that fort, little Annan-hoy, and the junks (now under weigh), began to fire with shot. At this moment the wind be- coming light and baffling, we were obliged to drop anchor in Anson's bay, in order to hold the ground we had gained, and that they might not suppose they had driven us back ; and in the act of wearing for this purpose, we gave the admiral of the junks a single shot only, by way of a hint*.

* This first shot was fired by the Captain's own hand, that, in the event of the Chinese demanding those who fired, instead of those who ordered, or of seizing upon any innocent person, he might fully place himself in the situa- tion of being individually responsible for all consequences.

136 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

They immediately ceased firing ; and their junks anchoring near us, all remained quiet until a little after eight o'clock, when a light breeze sprung up, which enabled us to lay our course, and the anchor was again weighed. The moment this was observed by the junks, they beat their gongs, fired guns, and threw up sky-rockets, to give the alarm, and in an instant the batteries were completely illuminated, displaying lanterns as large as moderate-sized balloons, (the finest mark imaginable for us,) commencing also a warm, but ill-directed, fire from both sides. Steering a steady course, the ship maintained a slow and regular fire, as the guns could be got to bear, without yawing her.

From the lightness of the breeze, which the cannonade seemed to lessen, it was a considerable time before we got abreast of the largest battery. At last, when within pistol-shot of the angle of it, and just be- fore they could get all their guns to bear into the ship, a whole broadside, with cool aim, was poured in among them, the two- and-thirty pounders rattling the stones

TO CHINA. 137

about their ears in fine style, and giving them at the same time three roaring cheers.

This salvo was decisive at this particular point; their lights disappeared in a twin- kling, and they were completely silenced ; but from the island opposite they still con- tinued their fire, the balls which passed over and around us striking New Annan- hoy, which had thereby the full benefit of their own as well as our shot.

Soon after this our point was gained ; and, standing up the river, we displayed our stern to these gentlemen. It is somewhat extraordinary that it should have been gained so easily ; for, notwithstanding we were nearly an hour wrangling in this nar- row passage, not a man (on our side) was killed, the ship only hulled twice, and some trifling damage done to the rigging. Al- most any European gunners, with the same advantages, would have blown the frigate out of the water. During this affair, the flashing of the guns on the glassy surface of the river, and the rolling echo of their reports along the adjoining hills, had a very grand and animating effect. The Chinese

138 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

linguist, who had crawled below when he saw matters taking a serious turn, and having observed there was no joking in the case, began in real earnest to think, as one part of the promise had been fulfilled, that his time had now arrived. Coming trem-

o

bling upon deck, he prostrated himself, and, kissing the Captain's feet, begged for mercy. At that moment, hearing the order given to " stand by the larboard guns for " Tiger Island," (on which we then sup- posed there was a battery,) he said, with a rueful countenance, " What ! no hab done " yet r " Not half done" was the reply : " How many guns have you got on Tiger " Island?" — but, without waiting to answer this question, (or indeed reflecting in his perturbation that there were none at all,) he wrung his hands, groaned heavily, and dived again below.

We stood on for some miles farther, and then anchored. — Next morning, before day, we found ourselves surrounded by their grand fleet ; but they were wise enough to make no attack ; for, having now broken the ice, it was too late for half-measures, and there was

TO CHINA. 139

plenty of grape at hand to pick their teeth, had they offered the least molestation.

Half-measures seem to be a bad system in any dealings, but more especially with uncivilized people, for they are apt to attri- bute forbearance to fear, and acquire, under that impression, fresh courage.

When the late Admiral Drury was in- duced to make a show of force at Canton, but was withheld, by circumstances, from proceeding to actual hostilities, there was no end to their gasconading ; they consi- dered his retiring as a great victory gained, and it is celebrated as such by an inscrip- tion in one of their pagodas.

On the morning of the 15th, the Alceste anchored among the Indiamen at second bar, still attended, but with perfect respect, by their fleet.

In the evening, Captain Maxwell, at- tended by two gentlemen of the ship, pro- ceeded in person to Canton to demand satis- faction (after having taken it) for the insult offered in firing upon the king's ship. On their way up they remained one evening with Captain Campbell, of the Hewitt, and

140 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

on that night, the news of the business with the batteries having become public, much alarm was at first excited at Canton, as to the consequences of this measure ; but the next morning they were agreeably surprised by the appearance of several tea-junks alongside, with part of her cargo, the vice- roy having given permission for her to load immediately ! — It also came to -pass that the said viceroy thought proper to send down to the frigate, on this day, a high mandarin, attended by one of the Hong merchants, to wait upon the captain to welcome him into the river, and compliment him with all pos- sible politeness !

It appeared, therefore, that the late head- thumping ceremony produced both tea and civility ; and, most probably, it is the only mode of Ko-towing*, by which we will ever

* Ko-tozc is the ceremony exacted from all tributary princes and embassadors on approaching the presence of the emperor, and consists in kneeling, placing the hands forward, and then knocking the head thrice against the ground. The patient now stands upright, and, by word of command, kneels and knocks again, and afterwards a third time, making, in all, three prostrations, and nine thumps ; and this is required not merely in the imperial

TO CHINA. 141

receive either, on reasonable terms, from the Chinese. They affect in their usual disin- genuous cant, to despise our commerce; they say they could do perfectly well with- out it, and it is a mere matter of grace and favour that we are permitted to approach their shores, and carry on a trade highly to our advantage ; but, when the company's agents were lately driven to the necessity of abandoning Canton, of stopping the trade, and giving up all concern with them, having actually taken their departure, struck the flag and flag-staff, and were on their way down the river, the Chinese au- thorities became alarmed, and sent after them to beg they would return, making such fair promises as patched up, for a time, their differences. Neither will they trade honestly, or say at once there is an end of all intercourse ; and day after day we are insulted and trifled with by them.

presence, but on receiving any message, or donation of broken victuals, from the emperor, and was actually per- formed by the Dutch embassy for some half-gnawed bones in 179-5. (Vide Van Braam's own account.) So that a man, to be much about court in China, would re- quire a skull as thick as a buffalo's.

142 VOYAGE OF H. M. s. ALCESTE

The removal of our trade for a single

o

year, and the appearance of a few of our lightest cruizers on their coasts, would throw the whole of this celestial empire into confusion ; for they are not prepared for the loss that would occur in the one case, nor to meet the tumult and convulsion that would be excited by the destruction of their fisheries and coasting trade in the other. So feeble is their naval power, that, after warring with the pirates for many years, who chased their vessels up the river, and sacked the towns and villages within a few miles of Canton, they were at last obliged to compro- mise with them, bribing the whole to be quiet, and making their chiefejirst-chop mandarins.

Krusenstern, the intelligent Russian navi- gator,who had occasion, in his voyage round the world, to touch at this port, where he experienced much vexation and insult, says, with great truth and propriety, what all equally feel, that " the forbearance and mistaken lenity of the greater civilized powers have emboldened these savages, not only to consider as barbarians all Eu- ropeans, but actually to treat them as such."

Captain Maxwell, on arriving at the city,

TO CHINA. 143

sent in a strong note to the viceroy on the subject of his rudeness to the ship, which the latter answered by a letter from the Hong merchants to Sir Theophilus Metcalfe, the chief of the factory, who told the mer- chants, that, having no control over the king's officers, he neither could receive nor communicate it. The Hong people next applied to Captain Maxwell personally, with their letter of explanation about the fracas that had occurred ; but he refused to receive them or their letter, on the ground that Chinese merchants were not the proper channel of communication be- tween him and the viceroy. There the matter rested. The substance of this epistle was known to be some flimsy excuse about a mistake in sending down the chop or pass, which not being received by the man- darins at the forts, they were obliged to act according to orders. But what shewed the barefaced effrontery of their assertions was their public account of the business, whilst in the very act of presenting this letter of explanation, (for they affect to give a public account of all transactions), which

144 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

stated that the affair at the Bogue was a mere chin-chinning or saluting matter alto-

o o

gether. The first report, previous to the official fabrication, was forty-seven killed, besides a number of men spoiled* (wounded), which probably might be near the truth, considering they stood rather thick ; but, after the appearance of the edict, it be- came a subject on which "720 man can talk\" This is what the Chinese call " making " face," or keeping up appearances, with

* Among these wise and enlightened people, if a man is materially spoiled he must die ; for they neither will per- mit the necessary knowledge to be acquired for the per- formance of any operation, nor will they allow a stranger, who has that knowledge, to save him, but at the risk of his own life ; as, in the event of the patient dying within forty days, from that or any other cause, the anatomist would certainly be strangled, or, if he had plenty of money, well squeezed, at least.

t There was, however, a good deal of talk, sub rosa, upon the subject, and the shot found in the battery having been sent up to Canton and weighed, they hai- yawed a great deal at what \ve termed our smaller ships throwing shot of 25 catties (SSlbs.) each, asking seriously about the probable consequences of the rejection of the embassy, and whether our larger ships could come up the river. The last accounts from China state that these feelings have rather increased than diminished.

TO CHINA. 145

respect to any circumstances they are de- sirous of having reported their own way ; and the people on the spot are literally or- dered not to believe the evidence of their own senses, but to take the proclamation or edict * (as it is termed) for their guide, which is spread about in other parts, and handed down to posterity as good history, which no man dares to contradict. Few, it is supposed, will be credulous enough (who have ever been in China) to believe, that the people have the privilege of criticising the conduct of their superiors, and even of remarking publicly on the conduct of the Emperor. The law which permits them to do so may, indeed, be considered as a very severe piece of irony on their actual state.

That the viceroy had an intention of in- sult beyond the mere exclusion of the ship is rendered more than probable from the circumstance of a number of barges having been placed in the back passage to Macao, and not in the route of Lord Macartney to

* Some how or other the word edict has crept into ge- neral use for any piece of common information, whether it is from the Emperor, or has the force of a law or not.

L

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Canton, which were removed from that situation immediately after the late occur- rence; and likewise from the general tenour of his conduct throughout. Be this as it may, it would clear-ly have been a triumph to his cause, and that of his adherents, that the Embassador should have arrived at Canton with as little eclat and appearance of respect as possible; it would have added (as exterior is every thing with them) in the eyes of the Chinese, as well as foreigners, to the idea of disgrace and discomfiture to an obnoxious mission. But the advance of the ship to Wampoa not only commanded as brilliant an entry for the embassy * as ever had been witnessed on any other oc- casion; but, what was of equal importance, it sustained the dignity of the flag, and re- duced the viceroy (after offering every insult) to the meanness of congratulating those who had defied his flotilla and bat- tered his fortifications.

Canton may be considered the most in-

* That the Chinese did not join in it, is only an addi- tional proof that they would have prevented it, had they dared.

TO CHINA. 147

teresting city in China. It is one of the first in point of size, and, perhaps, the very first with respect to wealth ; and here, as the native manners may be seen in all their pu- rity as perfectly as in any other part, the traveller has also the advantage of viewing them as connected with Europeans, and of noticing their brightest efforts of imitative genius, which the encouragement afforded by the commerce of the place calls forth.

The numerous junks and boats of all de- scriptions in motion upon the Tigris sur- passes even the busy scene displayed upon the Thames ; for here the boats are the only residence of some thousand families, who live entirely on the water, and manage to obtain a livelihood, some by plying pas- sage, others by fishing and picking up floating articles, and not unfrequently by exercising their talents like our mud-larkers and river pirates.

The appearance of the river at night, completely illuminated by the lamps and lanterns in all the boats, has a very pretty effect. Infanticide is said not to be so common in China as was at one time be-

L2

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lieved ; but that it actually exists is not at- tempted to be denied even by the Chinese themselves; one of whom, on being interro- gated seriously on this subject, readily ad- mitted, without seeming to consider it as a crime, that they certainly did drown their children when they were so numerous as to be inconvenient to them ; but that boys might be exposed alive, and, if picked up, they became coolees or slaves. Jt would appear, therefore, that female children are most likely to become the victims in this way, from being less . useful to their parents when they grow up ; for the patri- archal law of China considers the sons as slaves of their father ; and he is entitled to sell them as such, should occasion require. The entertainments given by the Hong merchants at Canton to their European friends are considered to be very superb. Seldom fewer than a hundred people sit down in the great hall to dinner, which is usually dressed in our style, (although they have also their chop-stick feasts,) and plenty of the best viands, wines, and fruits, cover the table. Bird-nest soup is also handed

TO CHINA. 149

round as a great treat, to which the Chinese attribute very extraordinary and invigo- rating qualities. On us, however, it pro- duced no unusual effect; and we should not have known it from any other, had it not been pointed out. These bird-nests, which are collected in the Sunda Archipelago, are rather expensive articles, being purchased by an equal weight of silver. Their com- position is not yet exactly known, but it is some gelatinous substance, most likely of the vegetable kind, which the swallows pick up.

During the whole of the entertainment, a play is performing on a stage erected at one end of the hall, the subject of which it is difficult, in general, for an European to comprehend, even could he attend to it for the deafening noise of their music. By collecting together in a small space a dozen bulls, the same number of jack-asses, a gang of tinkers round a copper caldron, some cleavers and marrow-bones, with about thirty cats ; then letting the whole com- mence bellowing, braying, hammering, and caterwauling together, and some idea

150 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

may be formed of the melody of a Chinese orchestra*. Their jugglers are extremely adroit, and the tumblers perform uncom- mon feats of activity.

The Chinese government, with regard to religion, is tolerant. It appears to be in worldly concerns only that it is tyrannical, and seems to be indifferent as to what a man professes, provided he does not inter- fere in state affairs. Some one, calling himself a Catholic bishop, was, a short time before our arrival, strangled in one of the provinces, being suspected of intermed- dling with temporal matters, and pro- moting the late rebellions. Another was said to be under sentence of death on the same accusation.

They not only worship their own tutelary deities, but they are represented as making Offerings to evil spirits, or. as it is vulgarly termed in this country, they " hold a " candle to the devil," in order to avert mischief. They have not the advantage of

* Their softer music, employed at their weddings, and other occasions unconnected Avith the stage, is not un- pleasing to the ear.

TO CHINA. 151

any particular day set aside for public worship, nor do they attend their temples congregationally . Their priests or bonzes are not treated with that reverence and respect which is justly and reasonably due to the re- spectable ministers of religion in all countries. They are otherwise free, however, from indecorum and irregularity, having no wild fanatics, such as exist in India ; they are not troubled with domineering spiritual in- quisitors, as in some of our neighbouring countries ; nor have they any impious quacks and mountebank preachers, abusing tole- ration and dishonouring religion, as in England.

TheChinese are strangers to love : from the spirit of their institutions, which unnaturally prohibit all intercourse between the sexes, that passion can never be felt; and marriage is a mere cold-hearted bargain, conducted through the medium of some female agent, whenever a man finds it convenient to have a wife. As he never sees the lady until he unlocks the door of the sedan chair in which she is brought home, the key of which is previously sent to him, he is of course very

152 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

liable to have tricks played upon him. — For example, more especially as polygamy is allowed, a man may have a wife suffi- ciently young to be considered his daugh- ter ; should he want money, and the lady another husband, (both very likely cases,) or from any other reason should they wish to part, and think proper to act in collu- sion, she is sold as his daughter to another man, who is thus imposed upon by having a second-hand wife palmed off upon him, instead of a new one. The rigour of the law against offenders of this kind, which awards a very severe bambooing to all principals, aiders, and abettors, affords a proof that frauds of this description are not unfrequent. With a people who still ima- gine the earth to be a plain, and China in the middle, with all her tributary kingdoms around her; who are equally uninformed with regard to astronomy ; who, in the pro- hibition of the study of the human frame, preclude the attainment of the very basis of all medical knowledge ; and who, in fact, in every branch of natural philosophy, are equally ignorant, and resolved to continue

TO CHINA. ' 153

so ; it is evidently impossible to connect the term science in any shape or manner. The natural productions of the country, and their acquaintance with agriculture and the arts, (as far as they have been able to advance for that glorious edict which stamped them perfect, and com- manded they should not proceed beyond the bounds of excellence,) have already been (and probably may be again, with additional information) described, by those whose peculiar opportunities, as well as talent for observation, enable them to speak fully, and with precision, on those subjects. The government of China, however plau- sible it may sound in theory, is, by all that can be observed in a transient view, and by every concurrent testimony of residents in the country, most iniquitous and tyran- nical in practice. The mandarins, and even the Emperor, it is true, cannot boldly and openly chop off heads like a Turkish bashaw or the dey of Algiers, but they have the knack of rendering life very miserable, and assume the power of barn- booing, torturing, fining (or squeezing), and

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every species of oppression short of death. The human kind can scarcely be more de- graded than in China, for no where is power more diabolically perverted. Their laws, with the exception of some absur- dities (such, for example, of visiting mere accidental homicide with the same punish- ment as the most deliberate murder), read very well ; and, were they duly and impar- tially administered, might be found suffi- ciently adapted (as all laws ought to be) to the genius and character of the people they are formed for; but this is by no means the case ; bribery and corruption being so common, as scarcely to be the objects of indignation or remark.

o

A few years since an affray took place (as usual) between some of the seamen of the Indiamen who were at Canton on leave, and the Chinese mob, in which one of the latter by an unlucky blow was killed. The Chinese authorities demanded blood for blood, one of the seamen having been seized and detained in the factory: this, however, was not tamely yielded to (as in the case of the innocent gunner, who was

TO CHINA. 155

sacrificed in so cowardly a manner many years ago), but was resisted on the ground either of the aggression of the Chinese, or of a mutual inclination to fight, in which a man happened to be killed, without the least previous intention of murder. For- tunately the Lion, of 64 guns, Captain Rolles, happened to be there, which pro- bably gave some weight to these argu- ments ; and the mandarins, having no ob- jections to compromise the matter for money, proposed that a certain sum should be paid to them for the benefit of the de- ceased's relations, and a slave could then be purchased of the Portuguese at Macao, who might be strangled in lieu of one of the sailors, and thus the law would be per- fectly satisfied !

It may easily be imagined this proposal was not acceded to; and at last, after much discussion, the matter was arranged in some way or other without resorting to this hor- rible mode of expiation *„

* Related by J. Cotton, Esq., of the English factory at Canton.

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It is lamentable to observe that the in- stitutions of any nation should have the effect of deadening every feeling of sym- pathy, and of exciting, instead of discou- raging, " man's inhumanity to man ;" but such is the case in this country ; and when any one is severely wounded by accident, or falls into a river, or other situation of danger, he is certain of receiving no assist- ance from the by-standers, who will most probably take to their heels, in order to save themselves from being the last person seen near him.

About midnight, some time in Novem- ber, 1816, when the Alceste was lying at second bar, the shrieks of some people in the water were heard near the ship. The Hon. Mr. Stopford, who had the watch, and another gentleman, collecting a few individuals who happened to be on deck, jumped into a boat alongside; pushed off to their assistance ; and, directed by their cries, picked up, one after the other, three Chinese, who were plunging about in the river, which is here several miles wide.

It was a fine night, and a number of

TO CHINA. 157

small junks were moving up under easy sail, several of whom passed within a few fathoms of these people who were bawling for help ; and although they could, with- out the slightest difficulty, have saved the whole, they continued their course, the crews standing upon deck, and viewing their struggles with the most callous indif- ference.

On carrying the three men on board the frigate, it appeared they had been cro'ssing the river at this place, in a little Sanpan, or boat ; in which were, besides themselves, the wife and child of one of them ; and that this boat had been run down by one of the headmost junks, which passed on without taking the least notice, and regard- less of their fate, although they had occa- sioned the mischief; the others coolly following their example ; when they were fortunately heard from the ship, and pre- served by the boat. The poor woman and child, being unable to swim, sunk and were drowned.

Before day -light these people got a pas- sage on shore by a boat which happened to

158 VOYAGE OF H. M. 8. ALCESTE

be passing near the ship, and in the course of the forenoon one of them returned on board with a ctimshaw, or present, of three wild ducks, which lie presented on his knees to the gentleman who had saved him, stating that, by the junk running over their sanpan, he had lost his wife and a bull child, (his only mode of expressing a boy,) and must himself with the other men have perished also but for the assistance we af- forded them. Pleased with this appearance of heart and gratitude, where so little was expected, some money and provisions were given him for his ducks, and he was allowed to bring on board fish and other articles for sale, which, from becoming rather a fa- vourite, soon enabled him to repair the loss of his boat.

The Chinese, viewing them in every point, are assuredly a very singular race, and afford a melancholy example of the perverseness of human nature ; exhibiting a people who have had for some thousand years a dawn of civilization, which, from the operation of the most narrow-minded principles, has never brightened into day.

TO CHINA. 159

But for the presumptuous folly of supposing themselves at the summit of perfection, and the absurd tyranny of fettering the human understanding, by forbidding all innovation and improvement, China might and ought to have been at the present hour the greatest nation of the world. Instead of impotent and gasconading pretensions to universal supre- macy, she might have enjoyed, from her early and local advantages, the real glory of being the seat of arts, literature, wealth, and power.

AVhat have the governors or the governed gained by this pretended non-intercourse, and stupid contempt of the rest of man- kind? The frequent change of dynasty and constant rebellions tend to shew that the former have been by no means secure ; whilst the debased and humiliated state of the people sufficiently evinces that their sordid and illiberal plan confers no benefit on the general mass.

The Chinese, however, are not without their admirers. Some attribute their sus- picious meanness, knavery, silly pride, and other ill qualities, to their depraved mode

VOYAGE OF H. M.S. ALCESTE

of government, which narrows their ideas, by compelling their attention, and attaching importance, entirely to the observance of useless forms and ceremonies ; and by ad- mitting of no deviation from one contract- ed path, even in the simplest transactions of life; and that, were it not for these shackles of the mind, they would be a gay, civil, industrious, and honest people. Per- haps there may be a good deal of truth in this argument, and it is, therefore, extremely unfortunate that some change does not take place in a system which produces effects so injurious to the reputation of mankind. Another, and very distinct class of encomiasts, (of the true antediluvian school,) affect to hold them in high estima- tion, solely on account of their unvarying habits, and tenacious adherence to their ancient customs ; and as they are now, in all respects, precisely what they were two or three thousand years ago, they venerate them as living monuments of former times, and as valuable specimens of the antique. In their present state, however, from whatever

TO CHINA. 161

cause it is produced, few moderns will take their leave of them with sentiments of regard or estimation ; and even the most invete- rate antiquarian, had he more concerns with them than those merely speculative, might be divested, perhaps, of some of his prejudices.

Of the embassy, we had heard nothing distinctly for nearly five months, except that it had not been received ; and it was not clearly understood, until its arrival at Canton, that the refusal to submit to a humiliating ceremonial, considered as stamp- ing it with a character purely tributary, was the cause of this failure ; and that a recep- tion on the unconditional terms of the Chinese would have been deemed more prejudicial to the objects of the mission than even a rejection by a firm resistance. But these weighty matters are foreign to the subject of a mere simple sea-voyager, and will be so well described by those officially connected with them, as to render any far- ther observation unnecessary. Although the viceroy of Canton was in daily com-

M

162 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

munication with the legate, or commis- sioner, appointed to accompany the em- bassy through the country, yet he main- tained a sullen silence as to the probable period of its arrival, making no commu- nication that we might prepare for that event ; and it was not until the 31st of December that a letter of old date, having been detained for some time, was put into Captain Maxwell's hand, from Lord Am- herst, stating when the embassy was likely to enter Canton, which took place on the following day. A procession of boats, consisting of the barges of the two men of war, those of the factory, the American consul, and all the Indiamen, who were very numerous, with their respective flags, the captains and officers in full dress, and the boats' crews in uniform clothing, pro- ceeded some miles up the river, where they fell in with the Chinese barges, having the embassy on board. This meeting was highly gratifying to both parties, after a separation of nearly five months, during which each had, in its respective route,

TO CHINA. 163

observed many novel scenes, and encoun- tered extraordinary occurrences.

Lord Amherst removing into his own (or the Alceste's) barge, a double line of boats was formed on each side, and in this order proceeded down the river, and was landed at the entrance of the great temple, on the Honan side, from whence he was conducted to his residence by a very nu- merous assemblage, who had collected to receive him. The apartments in this place had been fitted up with much taste, and great appearanceof comfort, under the inspection of Mr. Urmston, of the factory, and was by far the most commodious and respectable quarters they had met with in China. A temporary building, or wooden frame co- vered with yellow screens, and containing a chair of state, having also yellow orna- ments and the usual insignia of the Emperor, was erected in the principal square, for the occasion of the viceroy's interview with the Embassador, in order to deliver the Em- peror's letter to the Prince Regent. This ceremony took place some days after the M 2

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164 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

arrival of his lordship. The viceroy had been ordered by his court to make a speech to the Embassador, on presenting this letter (which speech had been in re- hearsal for some months, and the substance of it publicly known through the medium of Portuguese translations) ; and it appeared that the tenour of this embryo harangue was rather of an insultingnature, containing such expressions as " Your good fortune has been small ;" " You sighed after happiness, and were unable to lift your eyes up to heaven/' i. e. to view the celestial Emperor, and others of a similar kind. The preamble of this edict also stated, that there appearing to be no want of respect in the King or Prince, who had sent over so many seas to pay him homage, but that the fault lay in the Embassadors not understanding the rules of true politeness ; he therefore had accepted some trifling articles of the presents of the said King, and in return had bestowed pre- cious gifts, agreeably to the maxim of Confucius, " Take little, and give much ;" and that, " on the receipt of these gifts, the

TO CHINA. 165

Embassadors became exceeding glad, and expressed great contrition * for their con- duct;" and went on to say " that the viceroy, on their arrival, was to give them an enter- tainment in compliance with good manners, after which he was to rid himself of them as soon as possible; and should they again supplicate him to accept their presents, he was enjoined to say to them, " The edict has passed, and cannot be revoked ! the Em- peror can be troubled no more !" and so forth. As it appeared this intended ad- dress had been made by them matter of public'notoriety, it was understood, that, in order to prevent any palaver of this sort, a

* A tolerably strong example of this sort of face" making occurred during the discussion about the per- formance of the ceremony, in which the precedent of Lord Macartney's not having done it was brought for- ward, when ^the Emperor declared, through his ministers, that he himself had seen his lordship perform it; and they coolly called on Sir G. Staunton, who had been page in that embassy, to vouch for the truth of the fact. — That he did submit to the Ko-tow is no doubt the fact they have put upon it iu all the records of the empire.

166 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

hint was given to the viceroy the day pre- vious to the interview, cautioning him against the use of any improper language, as it might call forth replies which would be unpleasant. At the time appointed this meeting of ceremony took place, and was accompanied by the appearance of guards, music, and other attendants, there being much state observed on each side.

The Emperor's letter, contained in a bam- boo case, covered with yellow silk, was now taken from this throne, and presented to the Embassador, who transferred it to his secretary ; and the persons on either side, who were (by previous regulation) allowed chairs, having taken their seats, and the usual unvarying number of complimentary questions having been gone through, such as " What age are ye?" and some others of the same high importance, the viceroy began to state, through the medium of

o ^

Mr. Morrison, who interpreted, " By the favour of the Emperor you have traded to this country for more than a hundred years, very much to your advantage/' "Tell him/'

TO CHINA. 167

said Lord Amherst, " the advantage is

O

mutual/' This being done, the viceroy replied, " No, the advantage is very much on your side/' " Repeat to him/' said his lordship, " that the advantage is strictly mutual." From the dignified and inde- pendent manner in which this was spoken, (a manner which, of course, from his pecu- liar situation, and the different style of those he had to deal with, he could have no con- ception of,) and perceiving, also, a deter- mination to repulse every thing bordering on impertinence, he seemed to be quite awed and disconcerted ; the thread of his discourse was broken, and he got no far- ther on with this mighty specimen of altilo- quence, than to say something about " the subject being a disagreeable one;" when the Embassador, considering the public busi- ness ended by the presentation of the Emperor's letter, rose up, and, wishing him a very good morning, retired in the same state as on comino; to this hall of

o

audience.

On the 20th, every tiling being ready, his Excellency left Canton on the forenoon of

168 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

the 20th January, 1817, and was attended to Wampoa in the same style as on enter- ing it, except that, in passing the various ships in that branch of the river, each sa- luted with nineteen guns, the Chinese war- junks also saluting. It appeared that the viceroy, just as the Embassador had em- barked in his barge to proceed down the river, approached near in his boat, and made # tender of a complimentary card, which was not accepted, it being deemed an improper time and mode of presenting it. On the 21st the Alceste weighed and stood down the river ; and on the morning of the 22d, as we passed our friends at the forts, each battery fired a distinct salute, in honour of the Embassador, as did the different war-junks ; and their whole mili- tary force, exclusive of that in the batte- ries, was drawn out in line in Anson's Bay, and fired . a feu-de-joie with their match- locks.

The ship answered all these in rotation, with three guns to each. On the same evening we anchored off the city of Macao? and the next morning his Excellency

TO CHINA. 169

landed ; but here the ghost of the late queen made its way through the centre of the earth, (for we were now antipodes to the Brazils), and prevented any public atten- tions being paid to the Embassador, be- cause the accounts of her death had just arrived. The fact is, these poor people dare not, were they ever so willing, do any thing which they think may be displeasing to the Chinese, under whom they live in a state of miserable thraldom ; the latter having it in their power, and frequently re- sorting to the measure, of stopping their al- lowance of provisions whenever they display the least symptom of being unruly; and in the present case it seemed to be the wish of the Chinese to have the whole management of the honours to the Embassador ; a man- darin receiving him on going on shore, although within their walls, precisely as he would have done, had the Chinese flag, in- stead of that of the Portuguese, been flying there.

Macao is stated to be a possession of little or no value to the crown of Portugal, and,

170 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

under the circumstances of its present te- nure, certainly not one that is either ho- nourable or independent. The cave of Camoens is the only object here which attracts the notice of a traveller, from its being the spot in which he com- posed his celebrated poem of the Lusiad. Camoens, certainly the greatest, and per- haps the only, Portuguese poet whose fame ever extended beyond the boundaries of his own country, deserved a better fate; and it is painful to think he died a beggar in the streets of Lisbon.

On the 9th January, the Embassador having re-embarked, we took our leave of China, steering for Manilla, the capi- tal of the Philippines, or Spanish India, where we arrived on Monday the 3d of Fe- bruary, but found it was only Sunday at this place, owing to the different routes by which the Spaniards and the Portu- guese advanced to the Asiatic seas ; the one by Cape Horn, the other by the Cape of Good Hope; a circumstance which may produce an awkward effect on people

TO CHINA. 171

newly arrived at Manilla ; — for instance, a stranger invited to a party on Wednes- day, without at all reflecting on the way he came thither, might dress himself for the occasion, and make his appearance on Tuesday. The town of Manilla, from its peninsular situation, having on one side the sea, and on the other a deep and rapid river, with strongly-fortified ditches across the isthmus, ought to be, with a proper garrison, very defensible, for there are no commanding heights in its immediate vi- cinity ; but their soldiers consist almost entirely of mulattoes and blacks, and seem to be in a very lethargic state of dis- cipline.

The Metees, or Mulatto women, who are a mixture between the Spaniards and the natives, are remarkable for their symme- try of form and stately mien, and this sort of beauty is so universal as hardly to admit of an exception. The religion of the Indians under the immediate control of the Spaniards is Christianity ; but at Min- danao and the other islands (of which there are more than a thousand), where they are

172 TOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

governed by their own sultans, it is said to be a mixture of Mahomedanism with their original Pagan rites. The banks of the river, as well as the lake from which it issues, called the Laguna de Bria, (its near- est part about eighteen miles from the city,) are represented as extremely beautiful, and abounding in tropical scenery.

This lake extends more than thirty miles into the interior. Near its head are some re- markable hot springs, called " Los Banos," or baths ; but they seemed rather too hot for that pupose. Luconia * is about four hun- dred miles in length, and two hundred in

* Canada is said to have derived its name from the Spaniards, when they landed in that quarter, repeating the words " aca nada/' or " nothing here," (meaning there was no gold to be found,) which the Indians caught the sound of. Some similar occurrence appears to have occasioned the name of Lugon. When Magellan's party first went on shore they found one of the native women beating rice, as is usual at the present time, in a mortar hollowed frcm the trunk of a tree, and, rinding her- self surrounded by strange men, she held up to them the large wooden pestle, calling out Looson, which is the native term for it; and this becoming a by-word among the Spaniards, they named the island Luc,on, which has been modernized into Luconia.

TO CHINA. 173

breadth ; and, were it made the most of, is fully capable of affording all the produc- tions of either Western India or of the neighbouring Archipelago.

It is so healthy, that the medical people have scarcely any practice, and complain that there are no "enfermedades reynantes," or reigning diseases, such as the yellow fever, as it exists at the Havannah, Vera Cruz, Carthagena, and other settlements more (by their reckoning) to the eastward . This misfor- tune most probably proceeds from the very limited intercourse which Manilla has, com- pared to any of the others, with Europeans, or new-comers, the Spaniards who inhabit it being almost without exception Creoles*, and therefore assimilated, from their birth, to the climate. This restricted intercourse may be observed in there not being a single inn for the accommodation of strangers in

o

the whole city of Manilla or its suburbs. Chinese emigrants are here in thousands, and are very industrious and money-making,

' This term does not mean a person having the least

mixture of black blood, but merely a white born in the

% country.

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being the chief artificers and traffickers in small matters, resembling the lower class of Jews. From their being found scattered about in all the Indian islands, they might indeed be considered as the Jews of the east, were they only half as honest.

The Spaniards appear not to be fully in possession of Luconia at the present day. They may be said, indeed, only to be masters of the ground they occupy in a military point of view, for, by their own accounts, it is not only dangerous to travel without an escort in the country, but it is not safe for a Spaniard to walk out singly after dark about the suburbs of Manilla. A day or two after our arrival, three of the natives, who had been concerned in the murder of a marchioness, were strangled before the porch of one of their churches. These people seemed to have been actuated not by a spirit of plunder, but of revenge, for some real or supposed injuries, as the deed was committed in the public square, by dragging her from the carriage on her return home in the evening ; and in this way frequent assassinations occur. A gen-

TO CH1>TA. 175

tleman of the Alceste being in a party one evening, where observations on the murder- ous character of the natives were the subject of conversation, took occasion to observe that if such was the case it would be necessary to keep a look-out in going homewards ; but he was assured that, as an English officer, he had nothing to fear. " No, Seilor, temen " ustedes, pero matan a nosotros," " They " are afraid of you, but they kill us/' It cannot be fear alone that induces the na- tives to spare the English officers, who certainly freely exposed themselves at time" and in situations the most favourable for assassination, without suffering the slightest injury ; and it is probable that a French, German, or any other transitory stranger might do the same; for it evidently is to their own immediate rulers that this feeling

o

of hostility exists ; and it is no doubt the result of their impolitic mode of governing. Such a state of things would render the Philippines a very easy conquest to any in- vading force in time of war ; but the court of Spain, at present, seems to have most to

176 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

fear from those sentiments of independence which have extended from Buenos Ayres to Manilla, and appear to be a point of union in which almost all classes are agreed, not excepting even the hierarchy.

The celebrated and unfortunate Perouse, when at this place in his voyage of disco- very, made the following remarks : — " Ma- " nilla is built on the shore of a bay of the " same name, which is more than twenty- " five leagues in circumference. It lies at " the mouth of a river, navigable as far " as the lake from which it rises, and is, per- " haps, the most delightfully situated city " in the world. Provisions of all kinds are " in the greatest abundance there, and ex- " tremely cheap ; but clothing, European " hardware, and furniture, bear an exces- " sively high price. The want of compe- " tition, together with the prohibitions and " restraints of every kind laid on commerce, " render all the productions of India and of " China at least as dear there as in Europe; " and this colony, although the various " imports bring near 800,000 piastres an-

TO CHINA. 177

" nually into the treasury, costs Spain " 1,500,000 besides, which are sent there " every year from Mexico.

" The immense possessions of the Spa- " niards in America have not admitted of " the government essentially directing its " attention to the Philippines, which resem- " ble the estates of those great lords whose " lands lie uncultivated, though capable of " making the fortunes of many families. " I should not hesitate to assert, that a very " great nation possessed of no other colony " than the Philippine Islands, and who " should establish the best government of " which they are capable, might behold all 44 the European settlements in Africa and " America without envy.

" Three millions of inhabitants people " these various islands, of whom that of " Luconia contains nearly one-third. These " people appear in no respect inferior to " those of Europe. They cultivate the " earth like men of understanding ; are car- ! penters, joiners, smiths, goldsmiths, " weavers, masons, &c. I have walked " through their villages, and found them " kind, hospitable, and communicative;

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" and, though the Spaniards speak of and " treat them with contempt, I perceived " that the vices they attributed to the " Indians ought rather to be imputed " to the government they have themselves " established/' Speaking of no encou- ragement being given to labour, he states, that " as soon as the inhabitants have the " quantity of rice, of sugar, and of vege- " tables, necessary for their subsistence, " the superflux is of no value whatever. " In such circumstances, sugar has been " sold for less than a halfpenny the pound, " and the rice remained upon the ground " without being reaped.

" It would be difficult for the most un- " enlightened society to form a system " of government more absurd than that " which has regulated these colonies for " the last two centuries.

" The port of Manilla, which ought to " be free and open to all nations, has been " till very lately shut against Europeans, " and open only to a few Moors, Ameri- " cans, and the Portuguese of Goa. The "governor is invested with the most de- " spotic authority; and the Audiencia, which

^

TO CHINA. 179

" ought to moderate his power, is totally " impotent before the representative of the " Spanish government. In point of fact, " though not by law, it lies in his breast " to admit or confiscate the merchandise " of foreigners whom the hope of advan- " tage may have brought to Manilla, and " who would not expose themselves to this " risk but on the probability of a very " great profit, ultimately ruinous to the " consumers." It is undoubtedly as unac- countable, as it appears to be unen- lightened, that a nation should take de- liberate measures to make a colony a burden to it, which is not only fully able to maintain itself, if permitted, but to enrich the mother country. It seems almost equal to that of restoring the inqui- sition.

The Spanish authorities here were marked in their attentions to the Embassador during his stay ; and, on the 9th of February, having re-embarked, we got under weigh, bound homeward, and parted company with our consort, the Lyra, who proceeded from hence with despatches for India. N 2

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A course was now shaped to avoid the numerous rocks and shoals not well defined, which lie in that part of the Chinese Sea more immediately to the westward of the Philippines, and to the north-westward of Borneo; and having by the 14th passed the whole, and got into the usual track for the passage of either the Straits of Banca or Gaspar, it was resolved to proceed through the latter, as being more direct and less subject to calms than the former, and con- sidering them equally safe from the latest surveys and directions being on board, some of them by those who had personally examined them. At day-light in the morning of the 18th we made Gaspar Island ex- actly at the time expected, and, passing it, stood on for the Straits. As is customary in approaching any coast or passage what- ever, but more especially one that all are not familiarly acquainted with, the utmost precaution was taken by keeping the leads going in both chains, men looking out at the mast-heads, yard-arms, and bowsprit end, the captain, master, and officer of the watch, on whom the charge of the ship at

TO CHINA. 181

such a time more particularly devolves, having been vigilantly on deck during the whole of the previous night and this morn- ing. Steering under all these guarded cir- cumstances, the soundings exactly corre- sponding with the charts, and following the express line prescribed by all concurring directions to clear every danger (and the last danger of this sort between us and England), the ship about half-past seven in the morning struck with a horrid crash on a reef of sunken rocks, and remained immovable !

It was very soon indeed but too evident that any attempt to move her would be attended with the most fatal consequences; for, on each side of the rocks on which she hung, the water deepened from ten to se- venteen fathoms immediately around her; and, from the injury received, she musthave gone down in a few minutes, had she forced her way over this narrow reef. The best bower anchor was therefore let go, to keep her fast; and the pumps were soon abandoned, being clearly of no avail.

The boats were now hoisted out, and

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Lieutenant Hoppner, with the barge and cutter, ordered to proceed with the Em- bassador and suite, and all those not es- sentially required, to the nearest part of the island, which seemed about three miles and a half distant. Meanwhile every exer- tion was used by the captain and officers, who remained by the ship, to secure what provisions and stores could be obtained ; a task of considerable labour and difficulty, for all was under water, which now rose above the orlop-deck.

When she struck .the tide must have been rising, for towards the afternoon it fell outside, and consequently inside the ship several feet, thereby enabling us to save ourselves from absolute starvation by laying hold of some articles of provender which floated up, assisted by divers, and which the boats were employed in con- veying to the shore. A raft was also con- structed, on which were placed the heavier siores, with some baggage, and towed to- wards the island. By the return of those boats which carried his Excellency on shore we learnt the very great difficulty of

TO CHINA. 183

effecting a landing, the mangrove-trees growing out to a considerable distance in the water ; and it was not until after ranging alongshore for nearly three miles from the place they first attempted that a small opening' appeared, through which, by scrambling from rock to rock, they at last obtained a footing on terra firma. Here, by cutting away a quantity of the smaller jungle at the foot of a hill (for the island was completely overgrown with wood), a space was cleared away, where, under the shade of the loftier trees, they bivouacqued for that day and night.

On board the ship the work went on with activity, endeavouring to save what- ever might be most useful on such an oc- casion ; but, as the tide rose, the swell of the sea lifting her from the rocks, she dashed oi>4;hein again with such violence, as to render it necessary about midnight to cut away the topmast. At day -light on Wednesday the 19th, Mr. M'Leod landed with two men who had been severely wounded by the fall of the masts, and with a report from the captain to Lord Amherst.

184 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

The spot in which our party were situated was sufficiently romantic, but seemed at the same time the abode of ruin and of havoc. Few of its inhabitants (and among the rest the Embassador) had more than a shirt or pair of trowsers on. 3Phe wreck of books, or, as it was not unaptly termed, " a literary manure," was spread about in all directions; whilst parliamentary robes, court- dresses, and mandarin habits, intermixed with check shirts and tarry jackets, were hung around in wild confusion on everv tree.

•/

On his lordship being informed that no fresh water had as yet been obtained from the ship, and that it was barely probable fcome might be got by scuttling the lower deck, he desired every body might be ' called around him, and ordered that a gill of that which had been sent on shore the day before (what happened to be on deck in the dripstones and water-jugs), with half that quantity of rum, should be equally served out to every man without distinc- tion, and, taking his own share with perfect good humour, afforded to others an ex- ample of calm fortitude, and a cheerful

TO CHINA. 185

readiness to share in every privation, which never fails on such occasions to have a powerful and beneficial effect, more espe- cially when that example is found, where it ought to be, in the first rank.

Parties were now returning who had been searching for water in vain, every attempt to dig for it having proved fruitless, or, being too near the sea, salt water alone had oozed into the pits. At one spot they found the skeleton of a man, and the horrid idea of his having died from thirst rushed on every mind. Those who went into the wood, on these excursions, were obliged to notch the trees, and leave marks as they advanced, in order to find their way back. In the forenoon Captain Maxwell came on shore, to confer with Lord Amherst on the best mode to be adopted in the perilous situation they were then placed. The boats were utterly incapable of conveying half our number any where ; and, as some must necessarily go to the nearest friendly port for assistance, Cap- tain Maxwell judged it best that his excel- lency and suite should proceed with a

186 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

proper guard for Batavia, or whatever part of Java they could fetch, from whence vessels could be despatched to bring off those who remained behind.

This being what is termed the north-west monsoon, there was every likelihood of the boats reaching Java (the current being also in their favour) in three days ; and by this arrangement, which very happily was settled without loss of time, two grand pur- poses were answered the nearest to the cap- tain's heart, and his first duty, viz., the immediate conveyance of the Embassador and suite to a place of safety ; and, by their safety, ensuring more effectually than by any other means that of the officers and men who remained with himself upon this desert isle. It was thought probable that row-boats might be despatched from Ba- tavia after the arrival of his excellency, so as to reach the island (even against wind and current) in twelve or fifteen days ; and as Mr. Ellis volunteered to return with the first boat or vessel that shoved off to our assistance, an additional assurance was thus given, that, combined with the influence of

TO CHINA. 187

the Embassador with the Dutch govern- ment, no delay would occur in forwarding relief. After a short, and very slender ftte champStre in this wilderness (in which salt was viewed with the same horror as ar- senic), his lordship about five in the evening, accompanied by the gentlemen of his suite, by Lieutenant Hoppner, in command of the boats, Mr. Mayne to navigate, Lieu- tenant Cooke, R. M. (with a party as officers of the guard, in the event of falling in with any of the Malay pirates who infest these seas), Mr. Blair, midshipman, and Mr. Somerset (who had come to see the world a little), waded out to the edge of the reef, and embarked in the barge and cutter. They were in all forty-seven persons, and had with them a small stock of provisions, con- sisting of a side of mutton, a ham, a tongue, about twenty pounds of coarse biscuit, and some few more of fine, seven gallons of water, the same of beer, as many of spruce, and about thirty bottles of wine. This was all that could be spared ; and being deemed equal to sustain nature for four or five days, in which period they must either make the

188 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

land, or be so disposed of as to require no provisions, it was considered sufficient. After pulling outwards a little way to clear all the rocks, they made sail to the south- ward, attended by the best wishes of every man of the island, and were soon out of sight. The number left behind was 200 men and boys, and one woman.

The first measure of Captain Maxwell, after fixing a party to dig a well in a spot which was judged, from a combination of circumstances, the most likely to find water, was to remove our bivouac to the top of the hill, where we could breathe a cooler and purer air ; a place in all respects not only better adapted to the preservation of our health, but to our defence in case of attack. A path was cut upwards, and a party em- ployed in clearing away and setting fire to the underwood on the summit. This last operation tended much to free us from myriads of ants, and of snakes, scorpions, centipedes, and other reptiles, which in such a place and climate generally abound. Others were employed in removing up- wards our small stock of provisions, which

TO CHINA. 189

were deposited (under a strict guard), in a sort of natural magazine, formed by the tumbling together of some huge masses of rock on the highest part of this eminence. On board the wreck a party were stationed, endeavouring to gain any accession they could to our stock of provisions and arms, and to save any public stores that could be found. There was a communication for this purpose between the shore and the ship whenever the tide permitted. For the last two days every one had experienced much misery from thirst : a small cask of water (the only one which could be ob- tained from the ship) was scarcely equal to a pint each in the course of that period ; and perhaps no question was ever so anxiously repeated, as " What hope from the well •?" About eleven at night the dig- gers had got, by rather a tortuous direction (on account of large stones), as far down as twenty feet, when they came to a clayey or marly soil, that above being a red earth, which seemed rather moist, and had no- thing saline in the taste. At a little past midnight a bottle of muddy water was

190 A VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

brought to the captain as a specimen, and, the moment it was understood to be fresh, the rush to the well was such as to impede the workmen ; and it was necessary to plant sentries to enable them to complete their task, and permit the water to settle a little. Fortunately about this time a heavy shower of rain fell, and, by spreading sheets, table-cloths, &c., and wringing them, some relief was afforded. There are few situa- tions in which men exposed without shelter to a torrent of rain would, as in the pre- sent instance, hail that circumstance as a blessing : bathing in the sea was also re- sorted to by many in order to drink by ab- sorption, and they fancied it afforded relief. Thursday, 20th. This morning the cap- tain, ordering all hands together, stated to them in few words, that every man, by the regulations of the navy, was as liable to answer for his conduct on the present as on any other occasion ; that, as long as he lived, the same discipline should be exerted, and, if necessary, with greater rigour than aboard, a discipline for the general welfare, which he trusted every sensible man of

TO CHINA. 191

the party must see the necessity of main- taining; assuring them, at the same time, he would have much pleasure in recom- mending those who distinguished them-

o o

selves by the regularity and propriety of their conduct ; that the provisions we had been able to save should be served out, although necessarily with a very sparing hand, yet with the most rigid equality to all ranks, until we obtained that relief which he trusted would soon follow the arrival of Lord Amherst at Java. During this day the well afforded a pint of water for each man ; it had a sweetish milk-and- water taste, something like the juice of the cocoa-nut, but nobody found fault with it *; on the contrary, it diffused that sort of hap- piness which only they can feel who have felt the horrible sensation of thirst under a vertical sun, subject at the same time to a harassing and fatiguing duty. This day was employed in getting up every thing from the foot of the hill; boats passing to

* It was happily said, when mixed with a little rum, to resemble milk punch ; and we endeavoured to persuade ourselves that it was so.

192 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTK

the ship, but unfortunately almost every thing of real value to us in our present case was under water. We were in hopes, how- ever, that, as no bad weather was likely to happen, we might be enabled by scuttling it at low water, or by burning her upper- works, many useful articles might be ac- quired.

On Friday (21st) the party stationed at the ship found themselves, soon after day-light, surrounded by a number of Malay proas, apparently well armed, and full of men. Without a single sword or mus- quet for defence, they had just time to throw themselves into the boat alongside, and push for the shore, chased by the pi- rates, who, finding two of our other boats push out to their assistance, returned to the ship, and took possession of her. Soon afterwards it was reported, from the look- out rock, that the savages, armed with spears, were landing at a point about two miles off. Under all the depressing cir- cumstances attending shipwreck; of hunger, thirst, and fatigue; and menaced by a ruthless foe ; it was glorious to see the Bri-

. TO CHINA'. 193

tish spirit staunch and unsubdued. When the order was given for every man to arm himself in the best way he could, it was obeyed with the utmost promptitude and alacrity. Rude pike-staves, were formed by cutting down young trees; small swords, dirks, knives, chisels, and even large spike- nails sharpened, were firmly affixed to the ends of these poles ; and those who could find nothing better hardened the end of the wood in the fire, and, bringing it to a sharp point, formed a tolerable weapon. There were, perhaps, a dozen cutlasses ; the marines had about thirty muskets and bayonets, but could muster no more than seventy-five ball-cartridges among the whole party. We had fortunately preserved some loose powder drawn from the guns on the upper deck after the ship had struck, (for the magazine was under water in five mi- nutes,) and the marines by hammering their buttons round, and by pieces of broken bottles rolled up in cartridges, did their best to supply themselves with a sort of langrage which would have some effect at close quarters, and strict orders were given

o

194 VOYAGE OF H. M.S. ALCESTK

not to throw away a single shot until sure of their aim. Mr. Cheffy, the carpenter, and his crew, under the direction of the captain, were busied in forming a sort of abattis by felling trees, and enclosing in a circular shape the ground we occupied; and, by interweaving loose branches with the stakes driven in among these, a breast- work was constructed, which afforded us some cover, and must naturally impede the progress of any enemy unsupplied with ar- tillery. That part of the island we had landed on was a narrow ridge, not above musket-shot across, bounded on one side by the sea, and on the other by a creek, extending upwards of a mile inland, and nearly communicating with the sea at its head. Our hill was the outer point of this tongue, and its shape might be very well represented by an inverted punch-bowl : the circle on which the bowl stands would then shew the fortification; and the space within it our citadel.

It appeared by the report of scouts, a short time after the first account, that the Malays had not actually landed, but had

TO CHINA. 195

taken possession of some rocks near this point, on which they deposited a quantity of plunder brought from the ship; and during the day they continued making these predatory trips.

In the evening all hands were mustered under arms, and a motley group they pre- sented ; it was gratifying, however, to ob- serve, that, rude as were their implements of defence, there seemed to be no want of spirit to use them if occasion offered*. The officers and men were now marshalled regularly into the different divisions and companies, their various posts assigned, and other arrangements made. An officer and party were ordered to take charge of the boats for the night, and they were

* Even the little boys had managed to make fast a table-fork, or something of that kind, on the end of a stick, for their defence. One of the men who had been so severely bruised by the falling of the masts, and was slung in his hammock between two trees, had been ob- served carefully ^sA/Mg, or fixing, with two sticks ami a rope-yarn, the blade of an old razor. — On being asked what he meant to do with it, he replied, " You know I " cannot stand ; but, if any of these fellows come within " reach of my hammock, I'll mark them."

02

196 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

hauled closer into the landing-place. An alarm which occurred during the night shewed the benefit of these regulations, for, on a sentry challenging a noise among the bushes, every one was at his post in an in- stant, and without the least confusion.

On Saturday morning (22d,) some of the Malay boats approached the place where ours were moored ; and, with the view of ascertaining whether they had any inclination to communicate on friendly terms, the gig, with an officer and four hands, pulled gently towards them, waving the bough of a tree, (a general symbol of peace every where,) shewing the usual de- monstration of friendship, and of a desire to speak to them ; but all was vain, for they were merely reconnoitring our position, and immediately pulled back to their rock.

The second lieutenant (Mr. Hay) was now ordered with the barge, cutter, and gig, armed in the best way we could, to proceed to the ship, and regain possession of her, by fair means, or by force ; the pirates not appearing, at this time, to have more than

TO CHINA.

eighty men. Those, on the rocks, seeing our boats approach, threw all their plunder into their vessels, and made off.

Two of their largest proas were now at work on the ship ; but, on observing their comrades abandon the rock, and the ad- vance of the boats, they also made sail away, having previously set fire to the ship, which they did so effectually, that in a few minutes the flames burst from every port, and she was soon enveloped in a cloud of smoke. The boats were unable to board her, and therefore returned.

Here was a period to every hope of ac- commodation with these people, if, indeed, any reasonable hope could ever have been entertained on that head. The Malays, more especially those wandering and pi- ratical tribes, who roam about the coasts of Borneo, Billiton, and the wilder parts of Sumatra, are a race of savages perhaps the most merciless and inhuman to be found in any part of the world. The Battas are literally cannibals. Insetting fire to the ship, they gave a decided proof of their disposition to us ; but, although

198 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

certainly with no good intention, they did merely what we intended to do ; for, by burning her upper works and decks, every thing bouyant could float up from below, and be more easily laid hold of.

The ship continued burning during the whole of the night ; and the flames, which could be seen through the openings of the trees, shed a melancholy glare around, and excited the most mournful ideas. This night also all hands were suddenly under arms again, from a marine firing his mus- ket at what he very properly considered a suspicious character near his post, who appeared advancing upon him, and refused to answer after being repeatedly hailed. It turned out afterwards that the branch of a tree, half-cut through the day before, had given way, under one of a race of large baboons, who we found about this time disputed the possession of the island with us. At the well, where there generally was kept a good fire at night, on account of the mosquitoes, the sentries had more than once been alarmed by these gentlemen shewing their black faces from behind the

TO CHINA. 199

trees. They became extremely trouble- some to some ducks we had saved from the wreck, (carrying them up the trees with them, and letting them fall down again when alarmed,) who, on several occasions, left their little yard, and came up among the people, when the monkeys got among them, instinctively preferring the society of man for protection.

On Sunday morning, (23d,) the boats were sent to the still-smoking wreck, and some flour, a few cases of wine, and a cask of beer, had floated up. This last God- send was announced just at the conclusion of divine service, which was this morning held in the mess-tent, and a pint was or- dered to be immediately served out to each man, which called forth three cheers *. This seems to be the only style in which a British seaman can give vent to the warmer

* Some decorously righteous man observing to the chaplain that he had never seen such a scene in England as the congregation cheering at the church-door ; the lat- ter replied, with proper liberality, (and tolerable good humour,) tf perhaps you never saw a thirsty English audience dismissed with the promise of a pint of beer apiece."

200 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTt

feelings of his heart. It is his mode of thanksgiving for benefits received ; and it equally serves him to honour his friend, to defy his enemy, or to proclaim victory. This day we continued improving our fence, and clearing away a glacis immediately around it, that we might see and have fair play with these barbarians, should they ap- proach. They had retired behind a little islet, (called Pulo Chalacca, or Misfortune's Isle,) about two miles from us, and seemed waiting there for reinforcements ; for some of their party had made sail towards Billi- ton.

Monday morning, (24th,) the boats, as yesterday, went to the wreck, and returned with some casks of flour only partially da- maged, a few cases of wine; and about forty boarding-pikes, with eighteen muskets, were also laid hold of. With the loose powder secured out of the great guns in the first instance, Mr. Holman, the gunner, had been actively employed, forming musket cartridges; and by melting down some pew- ter basins and jugs, with a small quantity of lead, lately obtained from the wreck,

TO CHINA. 201

balls were cast in clay moulds, increasing not a little our confidence and security. A quart of water each had been our daily allowance from the well hitherto, and on this day a second was completed near the foot of the hill, in another direction, which not only supplied clearer water, but in greater plenty ; and we could now, without restriction, indulge in the luxury of a long chink, not caring even to excite thirst, in order to enjoy that luxury in higher per- fection.

On Tuesday, (25th,) the boats made their usual trip ; some more cases of wine and a few boarding-pikes were obtained, both excellent articles in their way, in the hands of men who are inclined to enter- tain either " their friends or their foes." On shore employed completing the paths to the wells, and felling trees which inter- cepted our view of the sea.

Wednesday, (26th,) at day-light, two of the pirate proas, with each a canoe astern, were discovered close in with the cove where our boats were moored. Lieutenant Hay, (a straight-forward sort of fellow,)

202 VOYAGE OF H. M.S. ALCESTE

who had the guard that night at the boats, and of course slept in them, immediately dashed at them with the barge, cutter, and gig. On perceiving this, they cut adrift their canoes, and made all sail ; they rather distanced the cutter and gig, but the barge gained upon them. On closing, the Ma- lays evinced every sign of defiance, placing themselves in the most threatening attitudes, and firing their swivels at the barge. This was returned by Mr. Hay with the only musket in the boat, and, as they closed nearer, the Malays commenced throwing their javelins and darts, several falling into the barge, but without wounding any of the men. Soon after they were grappled by our fellows, when three of them having been shot, and a fourth knocked down with the butt end of the, musket, five more jumped overboard and drowned them- selves, (evidently disdaining quarter,) and two were taken prisoners, one of whom was severely wounded.

They had taken some measure to sink their proa, for she went down almost imme- diately. Nothing could exceed the despe-

TO CHINA. 203

rate ferocity of these people. One who had been shot through the body, but who was not quite dead, on being removed into the barge, with a view of saving him, (as his own vessel was sinking,) furiously grasped a cutlass which came within his reach, and it was not without a struggle wrenched from his hand : he died in a few minutes. The consort of this proa, firing a parting shot, bore up round the north end of the island, and escaped. Their canoes were also brought on shore, containing se- veral articles of plunder from the ship. They appeared to be the two identical proas which set fire to her. The prisoners (the one rather elderly, the other young) when brought on shore, seemed to have no hope of being permitted to live, and sul- lenly awaited their fate; but, on the wounds of the younger being dressed, the hands of the other untied, and food offered to them, with other marks of kindness, they became more cheerful, and appeared espe- cially gratified, seeing one of their dead companions, who had been brought on * shore, was decently buried.

204 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

The Malays are a people of very unpre- possessing aspect ; their bodies of a deep bronze colour; their black teeth and red- dened lips, (from chewing the betel-nut and siri,) their gaping nostrils, and lank clotted hair hanging about their shoulders and over their scowling countenances, give them altogether a fiend-like and mur- derous look. They are likewise an un- joyous race, and seldom smile.

The state of one of the wounds received by the Malay (his knee-joint being pene- trated, and the bones much injured) would have justified, more particularly in this kind of field practice, amputation ; but, on consideration that it would be impossible to convince him of this beinor done with

o

the intention of benefitting him, and might have the appearance of torture, which it was not improbable might suggest the idea of amputation and other operations to them, in the event of any, or all of us, falling into their hands, it was determined, there- fore, to try the effect of a good constitution, and careful attention. A little shed was built, and a blanket and other comforts

TO CHIXA. 205

given to him, and his comrade appointed his cook and attendant. They refused at first the provisions we offered them ; but, on giving them some rice to prepare in their own way, they seemed satisfied. Ne- ver expecting quarter, when overpowered in their piratical attempts, and having been generally tortured when taken alive, may account for the others drowning them- selves.

In the forenoon, immediately after this rencontre, fourteen proas and smaller boats appeared standing across from the Banca side, and soon after they anchored behind Pulo Chalacca. Several of their people landed, and, carrying up some bundles on their shoulders, left them in the wood, and returned for more. We had some hope, from the direction in which they first ap- peared, as well as their anchoring at that spot (the rendezvous agreed upon at the departure of Lord Amherst), that they might have been from Batavia to our relief.

The small flag (belonging to the em- bassy) was brought down and displayed on the look-out rock : the strangers, each,

206 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

immediately hoisted some flag at their mast-heads. Anxious to know still more about them, Mr. Sykes was allowed to advance with the union jack, accompanied by some more of the young gentlemen, along the strand to a considerable distance ; and soon after some of their party, with a flag, set off to meet them. As they mu- tually approached, the Malays dropped a little in the rear of their flag-bearer, and laid down their arms ; ours also fell astern, and the two ancients (or colour men), wading into a creek which separated them, cautiously met each other. The Malay sa- lamed a good deal : many fine Yorkshire bows were made on the other side : shaking hands was the next ceremony, and then, joining flags, they walked up arm and arm to the place where the captain and several others were stationed. Satisfied now they must be friends sent to our assistance, they were welcomed with cheers, and every counte- nance was gladdened. But our joy was of short duration ; for, although their flag was laid submissively at the captain's feet, and all were sufficiently civil in their de-

TO CHINA. 207

portment, yet they turned out to be mere wanderers, employed gathering a sort of sea-weed, found on the coast of these (but in still greater abundance among the Pelew) islands, said by some to be an article of commerce with • the Chinese epicures, who use it like the bird-nests in their soups. All this was made out chiefly by signs, added to a few Malay words which some understood.

Mr. Hay, with his division armed, pro- ceeded down to their anchorage, himself, and some other officers, going on board with theiy Rajah (as they styled him), who expressed a great desire to see the captain on board, and sent him a present of a piece

of fish, and some cocoa-nut milk. During

o

the night many schemes were proposed as to the best mode of negotiating with these people. Some thought that, by the hope of reward, they might be induced to carry part of us to Java, and our four remaining boats would then be equal to the con- veyance of the rest. Others, adverting to the treacherous character of the Malays, and the great temptation to murder us

208 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

when in their power, from that sort of pro- perty still in our possession, and to them of great value, considered it safest to seize upon and disarm them, carrying ourselves to Batavia, and then most amply to remu- nerate them for any inconvenience they might have sustained from being pressed into the service.

The morning of Thursday, the 27th, how- ever, perfectly relieved us from any further discussion on this subject, the Rajah and his suite having proceeded to plunder the wreck, which by this time they had espied. It is probable they were not certain of our real situation on the first evening, but might have supposed, from seeing the uni- forms, colours, and other military appear- ance, that some settlement, as at Minto, had been established there ; and this may also account for their civility in the first instance, for, from the moment their harpy- like spirit was excited by the wreck, and they saw our real condition, there were no more offerings of fish, or of cocoa-nut milk.

To have sent the boats openly to attack them was judged impolitic ; it would only

.

TO CHINA. 209

have driven them off for a moment, and put them on their guard against surprise by night, should it be thought necessary, in a day or two, to do so. They could de- prive us of little ; for the copper bolts and iron work, which they were now most in-' terested about, were not to us of material importance.

We had the dav before moved the boats

•/

into another cove, more out of sight (from the overspreading branches of the trees), and safer in case of attack, being com- manded by two strong little ports (one having a rude draw-bridge), erected on the rocks immediately above it, and wattled in, where an officer and piquet were nightly placed ; and a new serpentine path was cut down to this inlet, communicating with our main position aloft.

On Friday, the 28th, the Malays were still employed on the wreck. A boat approached us in the forenoon; but on the gig going out to meet it, they refused to correspond, and returned to their party. No relief having appeared from Batavia,and the period being elapsed at which (as was now thought) we

p

210 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

had reason to expect it, measures were taken by repairing the launch, and con- structing a firm raft, to give us additional powers of transporting ourselves from our present abode, before our stock of provi- sions were entirely exhausted.

On Saturday, the 1st of March, the Ma- lays acquired a great accession of strength, by the arrival of fourteen more proas from the northward (probably of the old party), who joined in breaking up the remains of the wreck.

At day-light, on Sunday, the 2d, still greater force having joined them during the night, the pirates (leaving a number at work on the wreck) advanced, with up- wards of twenty of their heaviest vessels, towards our landing-place ; fired one of their patereroes ; beat their gongs; and, making a hideous yelling noise, they an- chored in a line, about a cable's length from our cove. We were instantly under arms, the party covering the boats strength- ened, and scouts sent out to watch their motions, as some of their boats had gone up the creek, at the back of our position ;

TO CHINA. 211

and to beat about, lest any should be laying in ambush from the land. About this time, the old Malay prisoner, who was under charge of the sentries at the well, and who had been incautiously trusted by them to cut some wood for the fire, hearing the howling of his countrymen, left his wounded comrade to shift for himself, ran off into the wood, and escaped, carrying with him his hatchet. Finding, after waiting a short time in this state of preparation, that they made no attempt to land, an officer was sent a little outside the cove in a canoe, waving in a friendly manner, to try how they would act. After some deliberation, one of their boats, with several men armed with creeses, or their crooked daggers, ap- proached : here, as usual, little could be made out, except a display of their ma- rauding spirit, by taking a fancy to the shirt and trowsers of one of the young gen- tlemen in the canoe ; but, on his refusing to give them up, they used no force.

A letter was now written, and addressed to the chief authority at Minto, a small settlement on the northwest point of Banca,

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212 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

stating the situation in which we were placed, and requesting him to forward, if in his power, one or two small vessels to us, with a little bread and salt provisions, and some ammunition. Again the officer went out in the canoe, and was again met by the Malay boat. This letter was given to them, the word Minto repeatedly pro- nounced, (which they seemed to under- stand,) the direction pointed out, and signs made that on their return with an answer they should be rewarded with abundance of dollars, shewing them one as a specimen. This was done more to try them than with any hope of their performing the service; for, although a boat went down to Pulo Chalacca, (where they appeared to have somebody in superior authority,) yet none took the direction of Banca. Meantime their force rapidly increased, their proas and boats of different sizes amounting to fifty. The larger had from sixteen to twenty men; the smaller about seven or eight; so that, averaging even at the lowest ten each, they had fully five hundred men. The wreck seemed now nearly exhausted,

TO CHINA. 213

and appeared to be a very secondary ob- ject, knowing the chief booty must be in our possession, and they blockaded us with increased rigour, drawing closer into the cove, more especially at high water, fearful lest our boats, being afloat at that period, should push out and escape them. In the afternoon some of the Rajah's peo- ple (whom we at first considered our friends) made their appearance, as if seek- ing a parley ; and, on communicating with them, gave us to understand by signs, and as many words as could be made out, that all the Malays, except their party r, were ex- tremely hostile to us ; that it was their de- termination to attack us thatnio-ht; and urging also that some of their people should sleep up the hill, in order to pro- tect us. Their former conduct and pre- sent connexions displayed so evidently the treachery of this offer, that it is need- less to say it was rejected, giving them to understand we could trust to ourselves. They immediately returned to their gang, who certainly assumed a most menacing atti- tude. In the evening, when the officers and

214 VOYAGE OF H< M. S. ALCESTE

men were assembled as usual under arms, in order to inspect them, and settle the watches for the night, the captain spoke to them with much animation, almost verbatim as follows : " My lads, you must all have " observed this day, as well as myself, the " great increase of the enemy's force, for " enemies we must now consider them; " and the threatening posture they have as- " sumed. I have, on various grounds, strong " reason to believe they will attack us this- " night. I do not wish to conceal our real " state, because I think there is not a man *' here who is afraid to face any sort of dan- *' ger. We are now strongly fenced in, and " our position in all respects so good, that, " armed as we are, we ought to make a for- " midable defence against even regular " troops: what then would bethought of us, " if we allowed ourselves to be surprised by a " set of naked savages, with their spears and " creeses ? It is true they have swivels in " their boats, but they cannot act here. I " have not observed that they have any " matchlocks or muskets; but, if they have, " so have we. I do not wish to deceive you

TO CHIXA. 215

" as to the means of resistance in our power. " When we were first thrown together on " shore, we were almost defenceless; seventy- " five ball-cartridges only could be mustered : " we have now sixteen hundred ! They can- " not, I believe, send up more than five " hundred men ; but, with two hundred " such as now stand around me, I do not " fear a thousand, nay, fifteen hundred of " them ! I have the fullest confidence we " shall beat them ; the pike-men standing " firm, we can give them such a volley of " musketry as they will be little prepared " for ; and, when we find they are thrown " into confusion, well sally out among " them, chase them into the water, and " ten to one but we secure their vessels. " Let every man therefore be on the alert " with his arms in his hands ; and, should " these barbarians this night attempt our " hill, I trust we shall convince them that " they are dealing with Britons/' Pferhaps three jollier hurras Avere never given than at the conclusion of this short but well- timed address. The woods fairly echoed again ; whilst the piquet at the cove, and

216 VOYAGE OP H. M. S. ALCESTE

those stationed at the wells, the instant it caught their ear, instinctively joined their sympathetic cheers to the general chorus.

There was something like unity and con- cord in such a sound, (one neither resem- bling the feeble shoutnor savageyell,) which, rung in the ears of these gentlemen, no doubt had its effect; for about this time (8 P.M.) they were observed making signals with lights to some of their tribe behind the islet. If ever seamen or marines had a strong inducement to fight, it was on the present occasion, for every thing conduced to animate them. The feeling excited by a savage, cruel, and inhospitable aggression on the part of the Malays, — an aggression adding calamity to misfortune, — roused every mind to a spirit of just revenge ; and the appeal now made to them on the score of national character was not likely to let that feeling cool. After a slender but cheer- ful repast, the men laid down as usual upon their arms, whilst the captain re- mained with those on guard to superintend his arrangements. An alarm during the night shewed the effect of preparation on

TO CHINA. 217

the people's minds, for all like lightning were at their posts, and returned growling and disappointed because the alarm was false.

Day-light, on Monday the 3d, discovered the pirates exactly in the same position in front of us ; ten more vessels having joined them during the night, making their num- ber now at least six hundred men. " The " plot began to thicken/' and our situation became hourly more critical. Their force rapidly accumulating, and our little stock of provisions daily shortening, rendered some desperate measure immediately necessary.

That which seemed most feasible was by a sudden night attack, by our four boats well armed, to carry by boarding some of their vessels, and, by manning them, repeat our attack with increased force, taking more, or dispersing them. The possession of some of their proas, in addition to our own boats, (taking into consideration that our numbers would be thinned on the occa- sion,) might enable us to shove off for Java, in defiance of them. Any attempt to move on a raft, with their vessels playing round

218 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

it, armed with swivels, was evidently im- possible. Awful as our situation now was, and every hour becoming more so ; starva- tion staring us in the face, on one hand, and without a hope of mercy from the savages on the other ; yet were there no symptoms of depression, or gloomy despair; every mind seemed bouyant; and, if any estimate of the general feeling could be collected from countenances, from the manner and expressions of all, there appeared to be formed in every breast a calm determina- tion to dash at them, and be successful ; or to fall, as became men, in the attempt to be free.

About noon on this day, whilst schemes and proposals were flying about, as to the mode of executing the measures in view, Mr. Johnstone, (ever on the alert,) who had mounted the look-out tree, one of the lof- tiest on the summit of our hill, descried a sail at a great distance to the southward, which he thought larger than a Malay ves- sel. The buz of conversation was in a moment hushed, and every eye fixed anxi- ously on the tree for the next report, a

TO CHINA. 21ft

signal-man and telescope being instantly sent up. She was now lost sight of from a dark squall overspreading that part of the horizon, but in about twenty minutes she again emerged from the cloud, and was decidedly announced to be a square-rigged vessel. " Are you quite sure of that ?" was eagerly inquired : — " Quite certain" was the reply : — •" it is either a ship or a brig stand- ing towards the island, under all sail !"— The joy this happy sight infused, and the grati- tude of every heart at this prospect of de- liverance, may be more easily conceived than described. It occasioned a sudden transition of the mind from one train of thinking to another, as if waking from a disagreeable dream. We displayed our colours on the highest branch of the tree, to attract attention, lest she should only be a passing stranger.

The pirates soon after this discovered the ship, (a signal having been made with a gbn by those anchored behind Pulo Cha- lacca,) which occasioned an evident stir among them. As the water was ebbing fast, it was thought possible, by an unex-

220 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTZ

pected rush out to the edge of the reef, to get some of them under fire, and secure them. They seemed, however, to have suspected our purpose; for, the moment the seamen and marines appeared from under the mangroves, the nearest proa let fly her swivel among a party of the officers, who had been previously wading outwards*, and the whole, instantly getting under weigh, made sail off, fired at by our people, but unfortunately without effect; for, in addition to the dexterous management of their boats, the wind enabled them to wea- ther the rocks. It was fortunate, however, this circumstance took place, and thatithad the effect of driving them away ; for, had they stood their ground, we were as much in their power as ever, the ship being obliged to anchor eight miles to leeward of the island, and eleven or twelve from our position, on account of the wind and cur- rent ; and, as this wind and current conti- nued the same for some time afterwards,

* The shot was picked up by one of the young gentle- men, and appeared to be of malleable iron, not quite round.

TO CHINA. 221

they might, most easily, (with their force,) have cut off all communication between us. Indeed it was a most providential and ex- traordinary circumstance, during this mon- soon, that the ship was able to fetch so far up as she did. The blockade being now raised, the gig, with Messrs. Sykes and Abbot, was despatched to the ship, which proved to be the Ternate, one of the com- pany's cruizers, sent by Lord Amherst to our assistance, having on board Messrs. El- lis and Hoppner, who embarked the day of their arrival at Batavia, and pushed back to the island.

The gig was able to return (being a light boat); but our friends, who attempted to pull ashore in the cutter, were compelled to put back, after struggling with the cur- rent for nine hours, during the night of Monday, and morning of Tuesday, the 4th. That day was employed in getting all the movables we had saved from the wreck ready for embarkation. Wednesday, the 5th, landed Messrs. Ellis and Hoppner : — the recollection of the voluntary promise made by the former at parting, now ful- filled, and re-appearing as a deliverer.

VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

added to the many interesting and pecu- liar circumstances of the meeting, gave a new glow to every feeling of friendship, and, on entering Fort Maxwell, they were received with heartfelt acclamation by the whole garrison, under arms.

This fortification and its inhabitants had altogether a very singular and romantic look. The wigwams (or dens, as they were called) of some, neatly formed by branches, and thatched with the palm-leaf, scattered about at the feet of the majestic trees, which shaded our circle ; the rude tents of others ; the wrecked, unshaven, ragged ap- pearance of the men, with pikes and cut- lasses in their hands, gave, more especially by fire-light at night, a wild and picturesque effect to this spot, far beyond any robber scene the imagination can portray.

Two of the Ternate's boats also arrived with a twelve-pounder carronade, some round and grape, and musket ammunition, in the event of the pirates thinking proper to return before we had finished our busi- ness ; which, from the difficulty of commu- nicating, required the whole of Wednesday to perform.

TO CHINA. 223

On Thursday, the 6th, the majority of the officers and men embarked in the boats (now increased in number), and proceeded to the Ternate ; the raft, also, with four officers and forty-six men, (and a cow,) got under sail, and, after a comfortable cold- bath navigation, reached the ship after dark. Every article which could not be carried off, and was thought might be of the slightest use to the savages, was piled into a heap, on the top of the hill, and made into a bonfire.

At midnight the boats returned to bring off Captain Maxwell, and those remaining with him ; the whole arriving safe on board on the morning of the 7th March. We were most hospitably received by Captain Da- vidson and his officers.*

The island of Pulo Leat is about six miles long, and five broad ; situate about two degrees and a half to the southward of the equator : it lies next to Banca, and is in the line of islands between it and Borneo.

Is is uninhabited, and, as far as we could

•-

! The wounded Malay was also carried to Batavia, and he is now (although with rather a disabled joint) most pro* bably employed on board the Ternate.

VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

explore, (and exploring was no easy task,) produces nothing for the use of man. We found a great number of the rinds of what we afterwards discovered at Batavia to be the far-famed and delicious mangustin, which only thrives near the line; — the^ba- boons, who manage to live here, having monopolized all the fruit. Had we found any entire, we might have indulged in them, even without knowing their nature ; as, more especially in a case of short commons like ours, there could be no great danger in following the example of a monkey.

The soil of the island would appear to be capable of affording any production of the torrid zone, and, if cleared and cultivated, would be a very pretty place; the tree which produces the caoutchouc or Indian rubber grpws here.

The small stock of provisions saved from the wreck, and the uncertainty of our stay there, rendered economy in their distri- bution, as well as the preventing any waste or abuse, a most important duty. The mode adopted by Captain Maxwell, to make things go as far as possible, was to chop up the allowance for the day into

TO CHINA. 225

small pieces, whether fowls, salt beef, pork, or flour, mixing the whole hotch-potch, boiling them together, and serving out a measure of this to each, publicly and openly*, and without any distinction. By these means no nourishment was lost; it could be more equally divided than by any other way ; and although, necessarily, a scanty, it was not an unsavoury, mess, All the bread, except a few pounds, was lost. The men had half allowance of rum divided between dinner and supper, (sometimes more on hard fags,) and the officers two glasses of wine at dinner, and a quarter allowance of rum (a small dram-glass) at supper.

A small bag of oatmeal was found one morning, which some of the young Scotch midshipmen considered as their own, and sat down, with great glee, round a wash-

' Truth requires it to be stated, and it may naturally be supposed, that, among so many, one or two progging sort of people might be observed, who had no disinclina- tion to a little more than their just allowance; but the general feeling was much too manly and fine to admit of contamination.

Q

226 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

hand basin* full of burgoo, made from it; but they reckoned too securely on the anti- pathies of their English friends, for (not thinking this, perhaps, a proper lime for indulging national prejudices) they claimed their share, and managed to get through it without a wry face.

The guards at the posts, covering the boats, were generally under charge, alter- nately, of Messrs. Hay, Casey, Johnstone, Sykes, Abbot, Brownrigg, and Hope. The garrison duty, at night, was conducted, in turns, by the surgeon,chaplain,Messrs.Eden, Raper, Mostyn, Stopford, and Gore; thus making it light, and enabling them to keep their eyes open, and walk vigilantly round to observe that all the sentries were on the alert, and called out every quarter of an hour ; the younger midshipmen being perched, in rotation, on the look-out rock during the day, to watch the motions of the pirates, and give notice of any ship or vessel which might appear in the offing.

It is somewhat remarkable, that, during

* Not the only extraordinary mess-dish which this oc- casion had reduced some to.

TO CHINA. 227

our stay here of nineteen days, exposed al- ternately to heavy rain, and the fierce heat of a vertical sun, none were taken sick, and those who landed so (some very ill) all recovered, except a marine, who was in the last stage of a liver complaint, contracted whilst in China, as one of the guard to the Embassador. Another man, of very trou- blesome character, thought proper to leave his companions on the third day after landing. He may have been bit by a ser- pent in the woods, and died there, or have fallen into the hands of the savages • but

O '

he was never afterwards heard of. We marked with oil and blacking, in large cha- racters, on the rocks, the date of our de- parture, to be a guide to any that might come there in quest of us, and in the afternoon of the 7th, we bid adieu to Pulo Leat, where it is not wonderful that, in our situation, we should have suffered some hardship and privation ; but it is remarkable, indeed, that, surrounded by so many dangers, the oc- currence of any one of which would have proved fatal, that we should have escaped the whole. We had, for example, great

228 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

reason to be thankful that the ship did not fall from the rocks on which she first struck into deeper water, lor then all must have perished ; — that no accident happened to the boats which conveyed the embassy to Batavia ; for, in that case, we should never have been heard of; — that we found water ; — that no mutiny or division took place among ourselves ; — that we had been able to stand our ground against the pirates ;— and that the Ternate had succeeded in an- choring in sight of the island ; which she was only enabled to do by a fortuitous slant of wind for an hour or two. Had we been un- fortunate in any one of these circumstances, few would have remained to tell our tale.

It is a tribute due to Captain Maxwell to state, (and it is a tribute which all most cheerfully pay,) that, by his judicious ar- rangements, we were preserved from all the horrors of anarchy and confusion. His measures inspired confidence and hope ; whilst his personal exam pie, in the hour of danger, gave courage and animation to all around him.

We arrived at Batavia on the 9th, and,

TO CHINA. 229

from the Ternate being so small, a number of our party crossed in the boats, which kept company with the ship. On the 10th we landed, and were most kindly received by Lord Amherst, who converted his table into a general mess for the officers, as well as the embassy. Comfortable quarters were also provided for the men *, who, in a day or two, landed, and marched up there, with the flag which had been saved. They were met at Ryswick by his lordship, who accompanied them up. At Weltevreden, also, the officers met with a small, but choice, band of their countrymen, whose society will not be easily forgotten, or ever remembered without pleasure.

A short journal of Lieutenant Cooke describes the passage of the embassy across the Javanese sea, in the boats. — " At se\ en " in the evening of Wednesday, the 1 9th " of February, all arrangements having " been speedily made, the barge and cutter

The hospitable houses of Messrs. Milne and Termo afforded lodging to the officers during their stay ; and much kind attention was experienced from Capta/i.s Forbes, Dalgains, Hanson, and M'Mahon ; oa the staff of Sir Wil- liam Keir.

VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

" weighed, and pulled out to seaward, there " being a heavy swell across the reef; — soon " after made sail, and sounded in nineteen " fathoms ;— kept more to the southward, " having got into mid-channel; — at nine " at night, entrance point, in the island of " Banca, bore west, three or four miles.

" Thursday, the 20th.— At day-light, the " cutter in company ; moderate breezes at " W. N. W., and fair, with a smooth sea ; " high land of Banca bearing north ; — " having been much crowded in the night, " some shifted into the other boat, in order " to equalize the numbers. At seven, " served out, for the first time, some pro- " visions : a small portion of fresh meat " and biscuit, with a gill of water and half " a gill of rum, to each person. At ten a " heavy squall occurred, attended by rain, " which enabled us, by spreading cloths, " and wringing them, to catch a bucket of " rain-water, affording, to each person, " about half a pint. Light airs, and calm : " occasionally found it necessary to pull " eight oars, and, by the assistance of the " marines, we had two reliefs. Spelled the " oars every two hours. Served out pro-

TO CHINA. 231

" visions and grog in the usual small pro- " portions. Lowered the sails, the wind " being ad verse, afterwards becoming calm, " and at other times light breezes from the " south-west : each person had about half " a pint of beer. Lightning from west to " south-west, — water very smooth, — mid- " night, light airs.

" Friday, the 21st. — Moderate breezes " from the westward, which soon became " squally, and more to the southward, oc- " casioning a swell of the sea. At seven " o'clock served out the remains of the " fresh meat, and the usual gill of water, " and half a gill of rum. Examined stock " after breakfast, and found remaining six " gallons of water ; spruce beer, eight gal- " Ions; rum, four gallons and a half ; beer, " four gallons ; wine, nineteen bottles ; five " ditto of additional water, one ham, one " tongue, and thirty pounds of bread. " Served out, at twelve o'clock, some spruce " to all hands. In the afternoon, served " grog m tne usual quantity. Continued " rowing all night, and gave some spruce " beer to the rowers, who began to be

232 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTB

" much fatigued. Wind variable from west " to south-west.

" Saturday the 22d.— Continued pulling 16 all this morning, the breeze being very " light; mustered provisions, and found them " much reduced. At seven o'clock issued " grog and a little bread to each, reserving " a ham, the only meat now remaining, until " dinner time. All the gentlemen who could " pull relieved the rowers. About one ;< o'clock a favourable breeze sprung up at " N. W. : made all sail, and at half-past three " o'clock saw Carawang Point, in Java, dis- " tant about nine or ten miles. At six o'clock " the land-breeze coming off obliged the " boats to anchor. Served out part of the " ham, and a little biscuit and grog, as usual. " At seven the wind moderated a little, and " an attempt was made to row in ; but, the " people being nearly exhausted, anchored " again at nine o'clock ; the cutter having no " grapnel, made fast to the barge. The night " was fine, but a heavy swell occasioned the " boat to roll extremely.

" Sunday morning the C3;l, the people " having had some repose, and a little re-

TO CHINA. 233

" freshment served out to them, weighed the " grapnel, and pulled towards Batavia. Be- " tween the two points of land here, we ac- " cidentally fell in, although at a consider- " able distance from the shore,' with a stream " of fresh water running into the sea, which " put all in high spirits. To prevent any ill " consequences, a little rum was put into a " bucket, and every man drank about a pint. " A favourable breeze also sprung up, and at " half past ten o'clock we went alongside " the ship Princess Charlotte, in the roads, " where we were very kindly received, our " stock of provisions for forty-seven being " at this time four or five pounds of bread, " and (previous to falling in with the stream " of fresh water in the sea), one gallon of " water, one gallon of rum, and five bottles " of wine, with some Madeira in a jar/' During the whole cf this little voyage the strictest equality was observed in the dis- tribution of provisions ; and if any distinc- tion was made it was in favour of the rowers, those gentlemen who were unable to pull themselves taking a rather smaller proportion than those who did.

234 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTZ

The circumstance of the stream of fresh water, which seemed so providentially to extend into the sea, and afforded so much relief, is found to exist in many parts of the world, and has been lately turned to advan- tage by our Toulon fleet, which was en- abled to water at the mouth of the Rhone, almost without losing sight of the port they were blockading.

Off the Mississippi, ships can water even out of sight of land ; and the same is stated to be the case with the Oronoco, in South America. This will most probably be found in all narrow-mouthed rivers, which burst suddenly on the sea ; and from the fresh being specifically lighter than the saltwater, it naturally floats on the surface of the hea- vier body, and remains unmixed as long as the current retains its force.

The chief discomfort of this boat-voyage proceeded from being so crowded, and being obliged to sit so long in a particular pos- ture, and the great distress arising from thirst. It was very difficult indeed to pre- vent the people from drinking salt water; one man became delirious, and it was

TO CHINA. 235

attributed to this cause. It most pro- bably, however, proceeded from the ex- treme irritation occasioned by thirst ; for salt water, although an article of Materia Mcdica in very extensive use, has never been known to take the direction of the head.

About the 21st March the ship Char- lotte returned to Batavia, which had sailed in company with the Ternate, having on board Messrs. Mayne, Blair, and Marrige. After beating against wind and cur- rent, from the 24th February to the l'6th March, without being able to fetch farther than the south-east end of Banca, the cur- rent constantly sweeping them to leeward the moment they opened the Straits, Mr.Mayne, finding nothing was to be done in the ship, resolved to shove off in the barge, accompanied by the above gentlemen, and Mr. Thomson the supercargo, with two casks of water and one of beef for us, in the event of being still on the island. They tugged at the oars until the next day, when, arriving in sight of the place we had occu- pied, they found a large flotilla of the pi-

236 TOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

rates at anchor there, three of whom imme- diately gave chase to our boat. There was no time to be lost; the barge made sail; but, in addition to their sails, the Malays pulled furiously, and were gaining fast. The beef and water were now thrown over- board, to lighten the barge ; and, knowing whom they had to deal with, they pre- pared, being tolerably armed, to sell them- selves as dear as possible. Fortunately at this moment a strong squall occurred, which compelled the Malays to lower their sails, whilst the barge, carrying through all, got a-head and escaped, the pirates hauling their wind again towards the island.

These proas were probably of the more distant islands, who, having only lately heard of the wreck, had arrived a day after the fair, and were hungry, and annoyed at finding no prey.

Nothing could exceed the deplorable state of Java at the period of its conquest by the British forces in 1811. The natives had at all times been enslaved and oppressed by the Dutch colonists ; and, from the strict blockade of our cruizers, the produce of

TO CHINA. 237

the soil which they were unable to export was rotting in their warehouses, and re- ducing the latter to a state of bankruptcy.

The system of government immediately introduced by Lord Minto, under the able superintendence of Mr. Raffles, corre- sponding with that existing in British (and what is here termed western) India, very much altered the state of affairs ; but it more especially ameliorated the condition of the native Javanese. It had been usual to compel the people to labour at the pub- lic works, whenever occasion required, with- out any, or at least for a very inadequate, remuneration. They were also obliged to deliver in a certain quantity of produce, often exceeding what they were able to af- ford ; whilst they were tyrannically restrict- ed to the cultivation of those articles only which best answered the purposes of the Dutch monopolists. By the new order of things these forced services were imme- diately abolished. The people were paid a reasonable price for their voluntary labour ; and, instead of arbitrary and compulsory deliveries, encouragement was given to grow

238 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

what were considered the most valuable productions of the island, and the Javanese were now stimulated to exertion by having an interest in the fruits of their industry. The revenue was now raised (except in one or two immaterial instances, which could not at once be conveniently altered) by a moderate land-tax on the whole. The Ra- jahs or Regents of the different districts were allowed (and indeed preferred) a fixed salary to abandon their claims to the former harsh method of raisins their in-

o

comes, whilst they were still intrusted under proper surveillance with the administration of the laws, which were also new-modelled and rendered more equitable, torture being abolished, and the instruments burnt in the public square. The Chinese farmers of revenue, employed under the Dutch, who possessed peculiar ingenuity in squeezing the natives, were either removed, or their conduct narrowly inspected by the British residents *. In Java there is no interrup-

* Sir T. Raffles, in his elaborate work on Java, states, " that whenever the Chinese formed extensive settlement*

TO CHIXA. 239

tion to the course of vegetation. The spring is eternal ; and it is quite usual on the same day to see them sowing in one field, the se- cond in half blossom, and reaping in the third. But with all these advantages of soil and climate the people had been driven to relinquish their native villages, and even to destroy the trees which the cruel impo- licy of the whites compelled them to cul- tivate equally against their interest and their inclination.

In the first settlement of colonies, it is notorious that enormities were committed by all Europeans on the aborigines of the country ; but, without flattering our amour propre national, this unconciliatory and over- bearing system seems to have been far less practised by us than by other nations, if

" in Java, the native inhabitants had no alternative but ' that of abandoning the district, or of becoming slaves

" of the soil. Their monopolizing spirit was often

" even pernicious to the produce, as may be seen [t even at this day in the immediate vicinity of Batavia, ' where all the public markets are farmed by them, and :< the degeneracy and poverty of the lower classes are

" proverbial."

240 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

we may judge from the comparative per- sonal security with which a Briton roams every where at large. Previous to our pos- session of Java, (when travelling became even more safe than in England,) no Dutch- man ever ventured to undertake a journey among the natives without a guard. The same is the case with the Portuguese and the original Brazilians, as well as the Spa- niards at Manilla, and throughout the whole island of Luconia.

With the Javanese harsh and rigorous measures seem, and indeed have been clearly proved to be, as unnecessary as they are unjustifiable, for few people bear a more mild, docile, or inoffensive character. They are a distinct race from the Malays of the coasts, not only speaking a different language, but are anxious not to be confounded with them. Lord Minto, who was personally at Java at the pe- riod of its falling into our possession, made the following observations on the ex- isting state of affairs, and the alterations he judged necessary : —

" Contingents of rice, and, indeed, of

TO CHINA. 241

" other productions, have been hitherto " required of the cultivators, by govern- " ment, at an arbitrary rate ; this, also, is " a vicious system, to be abandoned as " soon as possible. The system of contin- " gents did not arise from the mere solici- " tude for the people, but was a measure " alone of finance and control, to enable " government to derive a revenue from a " high price imposed on the consumer, " and to keep the whole body of the peo- " pie dependent on its pleasure for sub- " sistence. I recommend a radical reform " in this branch to the serious and early " attention of government. The principle " of encouraging industry in the cultiva- *e tion and improvement of lands, by cre- " ating an interest in the effort and fruits " of that industry, can be expected in Java " only by a fundamental change of the " whole system of landed property and " tenure. A wide field, But a somewhat " distant one, is open to this great and in- " teresting improvement; the discussion of " tLe subject, however, must necessarily be " delayed till the investigation it requires

B

242 YOTAGE OP H. M. S. ALCESTE

" is more complete. I shall transmit such " thoughts as I have entertained, and such " hopes as I hare indulged, in this grand " object of amelioration ; but I am to re- " quest the aid of all the information, and " all the lights, that this island can afford. " On this branch, nothing must be done " that is not mature, because the change " is too extensive to be suddenly or igno- " rantly attempted. But fixed and immu- " table principles of the human character, " and of human association, assure me of " ultimate, and, I hope, not remote, suc- " cess, in views that are consonant with " every motive of action that operates on " man, and are justified by the practice " and experience of every flourishing coun- " try of the world/'

The wisdom and sound policy of these liberal and enlightened views have been

o

fully proved by the increasing happiness and prosperity of the colony, from the day they were practically adopted, up to the period of the transfer of the island; and that the same system should be continued under the restored government appears to

TO CHINA. 243

be the decided opinion of the wisest and most clear-sighted of the Dutch colonists ; as well for its obvious justice and humanity, as from a conviction of its superior efficacy in every other respect.

At the same time measures were taken to abolish slavery, for the continuance of which, in Java* there appeared not even the plea of expediency, Their farther im- portation was forbidden, (for they were ge- nerally brought, for obvious reasons, from the neighbouring islands,) and regulations were formed for the protection and better treatment of those actually existing. They were not allowed, for instance, to be sold or transferred from one master to another, but with their own approbation ; they were permitted the right of acquiring property either by their own industry, or from the gifts of others, independent of the control of their masters, which they might appro- priate, if they thought proper, after a cer- tain term, to the purchase of their freedom, at a reasonable valuation, subject to the approval of' a magistrate. An annual re- gistry of each slave was also required, and

VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

a tax laid upon that registry, the proceeds of which were applied to charitable pur- poses ; and, in any instance where this re- gistry was omitted to be given in, the slave was declared free.

Although their present religion is that of Mahomet, (with a mixture of Paganism,) yet the numerous relics of Hinduism, in high preservation throughout the island, evidently shew that the latter was the ori- ginal mode of worship. Indeed, Balli, one of the neighbouring islands, performs the Hindu rites at this day.

Batavia is considered, and with much reason, to be one of the most unhealthy spots in the world. But this character is applicable only to the town itself ; which, agreeably to Dutch usage, wherever they could find one, is built in a swamp. The effect of this, within seven degrees of the equator, is precisely what might be ex- pected ; but at Ryswick and Weltevreden, where the ground rises, certainly, not above a dozen or fifteen feet, and situated within three miles of the town, health is retained, at least, as perfectly as in any other part of

TO CHINA. 245

India ; and it has been even said that a bat- talion of a regiment quartered there has re- turned a smaller sick report than the other, Stationed in some part of England. No Eu- ropean, who can possibly avoid it, ever sleeps in the city ; but, after transacting his busi- ness, removes to the neighbourhood. Among seamen and soldiers, a night or two spent in Batavia is deemed mortal ; but this in- creased fatality among them proceeds evidently from their never sleeping there but for the express purpose of getting drunk ; and, when immersion in putrid and marsh effluvia, in so hot a climate, is applied to a body, rendered highly suscep- tible of their impression from previous ebriety, it is not to be wondered that a fever of the worst class should be the con- sequence. They are also not so likely, in these cases, to receive that prompt as- sistance (which alone can save them) ; for, conscious of having been irregular in their conduct, they are ashamed and unwilling to make application until it is often too late ; and the loss of a single day will, in severer cases, be attended, in all probability,

246 VOYAGE OF H. M.S. ALCESTE

with the most dangerous consequences*, The insalubrity of Batavia is attributed, but with little appearance of justice, to the numerous canals which intersect the town ; for they rather seem to do good, by acting as drains, in a marshy soil ; and, if they are the receptacles of filth and carcases, (which appeared not to be the case,) it is the fault of the police, and not of the canals. Rice-field e, creating an artificial swamp, in addition to the natural moisture of the ground, certainly ought not to be permitted to exist in the immediate vicinity of a populous city; and cannot be at all necessary in a country, two-thirds of which is uncultivated.

The climate of Java may be varied at pleasure, from the suffocating heat of Ban-

* Captain Charles Ross, of the Pique, in the West Indies, among other judicious regulations of that ex- cellent officer, (whose orders were neither multiplied nor confused, and, for that reason, more likely to be rational,) always considered a wan found drunk to be an object tor the surgeon's immediate care, in the first instance ; and it is astonishing the good effect this had, not only in preventing druakeuness, but in obviating its effects.

TO CHINA. 247

tarn, or Batavia, to the cool, and even keen, air of the mountains, where fires and blankets are necessary ; which, to invalids requiring an immediate change of tem- perature, is an advantage of the highest importance.

It is extraordinary how defective all co- lonies are in seminaries of education ; — a defect, more especially in those that are extensive and populous, for which there can be no good excuse, and is attended with much inconvenience ; for either the youth of both sexes receive no education at all, or must be sent home, at a great expense, for that purpose. This would appear to be much the case at Batavia, for the young men required to fill situations of responsibility must be supplied by fresh importations ; and the ladies, surrouaded by a crowd of flattering slave-girls, gene^ rally creolize * the whole day in a delectable

* CreoLzing is an easy and elegant mode of lounging in a warm climate ; so called, because much in fashion among the ladies of the West Indies : that is, reclining back in one arm-chair, with their feet upon another, and sometimes upon the table.

248 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

•

state of apathy, without any sort of occu- pation ; at sun-set, perhaps, taking a short airing in the environs. The elder dames inveterately adhere to the kubaya (a loose sort of gown, or wrapper, sometimes richly embroidered), but the English and French modes are universal among the rising ge- neration. They form a curious contrast on public occasions, for, although sump- tuary laws exist, which prevent, more espe- cially ladies, from wearing jewels beyond a certain amount, and appealing abroad at- tended by servants exceeding the number allowed for the particular rank of their husbands or fathers ; yet all classes, male and female, seem privileged to undress them- selves as they please.

One evening, on our passage outwards, at a grand ball given by the British army officers, on the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo, at the Harmonic, an elderly gentleman, in a full suit of black, highly trimmed, and in the cut of the last century, was seen strutting about the room with a white night-cap on his head. Indeed, at dinner, in the best companies, they do not

TO CHINA. 249

hesitate to wear their hats, if there is the least motion in the air, for they dread no- thing so much as sitting in a current.

The villas of the councillors of the Indies are distinguished by having black instead of white statues in their fronts, and about their gardens. They are, generally, heavy-look- ing houses, situated on the Jacatra and Rys- wick roads, but have an air of stateliness.

The restored Dutch government profess to act upon the principles which have been found successful during our possession ; but a circumstance which occurred a short time before our arrival here evinced strong symptoms of a recurrence to the system of terror. A body of the natives, about five hundred in number, having had some dis- pute with the local authorities near Indra Mayo, whilst making representation about some hardship (which they had been lately freely in the habit of doing, whenever they considered themselves in any way aggrieved); were seized, and confined in a house, which, like the black hole at Calcutta, being too small for the prisoners, they, in desperation, attempted to break through the roof; when a body of military having by tiiis time been

250 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

collected, they were fired upon, the greater part killed, and the remainder, in some way or other, destroyed. It is somewhat extra- ordinary that the Dutch, who are, at home, a very unassuming, plain, and moral sort of people, should have displayed, on so many occasions, a ferocious and blood- thirsty disposition in their colonies. Mar- shal Daendels, it is confessed, made many judicious arrangements by the vigour of his measures, had he only been a little more scrupulous as to the mode of obtaining his purposes ; but, to use his own expression, he " found it necessary to put himself " above the usual formalities, and to disre- " gard every law but that which enjoined " the preservation of the colony intrusted " to his management."

On one occasion he is said to have re- quested the magistrates to demolish their grand church in Batavia, which was not only in the way of some favourite scheme he had in view, but its cupola was the only land-mark for entering the bay, and, as such, greatly assisted the enemy's cruizers. The burgomasters ventured to oppose this project. In a very short time the church

TO CHINA. 261

was found to be on fire ; and the building being thereby in a great degree consumed and damaged, the remainder was soon razed to the ground *. His great military road, carried some hundred miles across the island, cost the lives of thousands of the Javanese, who were sacrificed to the system of forced services. He appears to have been little less despotic with the whites ; and many stories are told about him, " that he could even make hens lay eggs " when he thought proper ;" but, although all seem to agree that he carried a high and imperious hand, yet none dare, even now, speak ill of him, for fear he may return.

In equipping a considerable army, merely from the resources of the country, when entirely cut off from any communication with Europe, supplying them with a cloth adapted to the climate, and furnishing them with most of the other accoutrements, he put the manufacturing talents of the natives to the test, and he succeeded.

Sir William Keir, Mr. Feudal, and

* The incendiaries were never found out.

252 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

Mr. Cranssen, were still, at Batavia, for the purpose of finally adjusting the transfer of the colonies, with the commissioners of his majesty, the king of the Netherlands. The Dutch squadron was absent at the dif- ferent islands, resuming possession of them. They had, as well as the land-forces, suf- fered a very heavy loss from deaths ; and the Baron de Capellan, who is individually a man of humanity, and was extremely solicitous about their preservation, wasstated to have personally interfered with the me- dical staff, who appear to have been much wedded to the old-fashioned practice, and to have given positive orders that the mode of managing the sick, which had been proved successful with our troops % on the very same ground, should be adhered to.

The ship Caesar, Captain Taylor, having been engaged to carry to England the em- bassy, with the officers and crew of the Alceste, being now ready for sea, her equip- ment having been expedited by the assist- ance of our artificers, his lordship em- barked on the 12th of April, attended by Sir William Keir, and all his staff, and re-

TO CHINA. 253

ceiving, from the Dutch authorities, every mark of respect due to his rank. We sailed on the same morning, and soon cleared the Straits of Sunda, and proceeded with a fair wind across the Indian Ocean. The gay scenes we had experienced for the last few weeks among our friends at Weltevreden and Batavia, and which we had enjoyed with the greater spirit from our previous adventures, made us more susceptible of the dull sameness attending our present sky-and-water view. But a circumstance occurred, of all others, pro- ducing the most instantaneous and effec- tual relief from this feeling of tedium vita or ennui. The ship, one morning, was de- clared to be on fire in the after store-room, and (to render the intelligence still more agreeable and interesting) close to the ma- gazine, whilst the flames seen in that direc- tion, and volumes of smoke now bursting forth, left no doubt of the fact. In a mo- ment the liveliest bustle took place of list- less yawning, and every mind was roused into a state of the highest activity. To be in a ship on fire in the middle of the ocean

254 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

is supposed to be the most awkward and unenviable situation in which a man of weak nerves can be placed. Some again assert that it affords, more than any other occasion, an opportunity for the display of coolness, presence of mind, and decision. Happily, there were not wanting many pos- sessing the latter qualities, who, by pushing through the smoke to the point of danger, and scuttling the decks immediately above the place, succeeded in extinguishing the flames in about three quarters of an hour, but not without considerable difficulty and damage. Very fortunately it was washing morning, and, of course, buckets, and other water utensils, were at hand. Had the ac- cident taken place during the night, or had it been unobserved for a few minutes longer, and the fire had communicated to some oil and other combustibles near it, no human power could have saved us. This alarming occurrence, so nearly proving fatal, was occasioned by an idle looby, be- longing to the Caesar, carelessly pumping off spirits with a naked light, in order to preserve the body of a parrot, which had

TO CHINA. 255

died the night before. It had the effect, however, of occasioning the most rigorous precautions in future.

Notwithstanding the crowded state of the Caesar, two passengers, of rather a sin- gular nature, were put on board at Batavia, for a passage to England : the one, a snake of that species called Boa Constrictor ; the other, an Ourang Outang. — The former was somewhat small of his kind, being only about sixteen feet long, and of about eighteen inches in circumference ; but his stomach was rather disproportionate to his size, as will presently appear. — He was a na- tive of Borneo, and was the property of a gentleman (now in England), who had two of the same sort ; but, in their passage up to Batavia, one of them broke loose from his confinement, and very soon cleared the decks, as every body very civilly made way for him. Not being used to a ship, however, or taking, perhaps, the sea for a green field, he sprawled overboard, and was drowned. He is said not to have sunk immediately, but to have reared his head several times, and with it a consider-

256 VOYAGE OP H. M. S, ALCESTE

able portion of his body, out of the sea, His companion, lately our shipmate, was brought safely on shore, and lodged in the court-yard of Mr. Davidson's house at Ryswick, where he remained for some months, waiting for an opportunity of being conveyed home in some commodious ship sailing directly for England, and where he was likely to be carefully attended to. This opportunity offered in the Caesar, and he was accordingly embarked on board of that ship with the rest of her numerous passengers.

During his stay at Ryswick he is said to have been usually entertained with a goat for dinner once in every three or four weeks, with occasionally a duck or a fowl, by way of a desert. — He was brought on board shut up in a wooden crib or cage, the bars of which were sufficiently close to prevent his escape ; and it had a sliding door, for the purpose of admitting the articles on wrhich he was to subsist; the dimen- sions of the crib were about four feet high, and about five feet square; a space sufficiently large to allow him to coil him-

TO CHINA. 257

self round with ease. The live stock for his use during the passage, consisting of six goats of the ordinary size, were sent with him on board, five being considered as a fair allowance for as many months. At ail early period of the voyage we had an exhi- bition of his talent in the way of eating, which was publicly performed on the quar- ter-deck, upon which he was brought. The sliding door being opened, one of the goats was thrust in, and the door of the cage shut. The poor goat, as if instantly aware of all the horrors of its perilous situation, immediatelybegan to utterthe most piercing and distressing cries, butting instinctively, at the same time, with its head towards the serpent, in self-defence.

The snake, which at firstappeared scarce- ly to notice the poor animal, soon began to stir a little, and, turning his head in the direction of the goat, it at length fixed a deadly and malignant eye on the trembling victim, whose agony and terror seemed to in- crease; for, previous to the snake seizing its prey, it shook in every limb, but still con- tinuing its unavailing show of attack, by

s

*

258 VOYAGE OF H. M.S. ALCESTE

butting at the serpent, who now became sufficiently animated to prepare for the banquet. The first operation was that of darting out his forked tongue, and at the same time rearing a little his head ; then suddenly seizing the goat by the fore leg with his mouth, and throwing him down, he was encircled in an instant in his horrid folds. So quick, indeed, and so instanta- neous was the act, that it was impossible for the eye to follow the rapid convolution of his elongated body. It was not a re- gular screw-like turn that was formed, but resembling rather a knot, one part of the body overlaying the other, as if to add weight to the muscular pressure, the more effectually to crush his object. During this time he continued to grasp with his mouth, though it appeared an unnecessary pre- caution, that part of the animal which he had first seized. The poor goat, in the mean time, continued its feeble and half-stifled cries for some minutes, but they soon became more and more faint, and at last it expired. The snake, how- ever, retained it for a considerable time

TO CHINA. 259

in its grasp, after it was apparently motionless. He then began slowly and cautiously to unfold himself, till the goat fell dead from his monstrous embrace, when he began to prepare himself for the feast. Placing his mouth in front of the head of the dead animal, he commenced by lubricating with his saliva that part of the goat ; and then taking its muzzle into his mouth, which had, and indeed always has, the appearance of a raw lacerated wound, he sucked it i?i, as far as the horns would allow. These protuberances opposed some little difficulty, not so much from their extent as from their points; however, they also, in a very short time, disappeared; that is to say, externally ; but their progress was still to be traced very distinctly on the outside, threatening every moment to pro- trude through the skin. The victim had now descended as far as the shoulders ; and it was an astonishing sight to observe the

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extraordinary action of the snake's muscles when stretched to such an unnatural ex- tent— an extent which must have utterly destroyed all muscular power in any

s 2

260 VOYAGE OF H. Wf. S. ALCESTE

animal that was not, like itself, endowed with very peculiar faculties of expansion and action at the same time. When his head and neck had no other appearance than that of a serpent's skin, stuffed almost to bursting, still the workings of the muscles were evident ; and his power of suction, as it is erroneously called, unabated ; it was, in fact, the effect of a contractile muscular power, assisted by two rows of strong hooked teeth. With all this he must be so formed as to be able to suspend, for a time, his respiration, for it is impossible to conceive that the process of breathing could be carried on while the mouth and throat were so completely stuffed and ex- panded by the body of the goat, and the lungs themselves (admitting the trachea to be ever so hard) compressed, as they must have been, by its passage downwards.

The whole operation of completely gorging the goat occupied about two hours and twenty minutes : at the end of which time, the tumefaction was confined to the middle part of the body, or stomach, the superior parts, which had been so much

TO CHINA. 261

distended, having resumed their natural dimensions. He now coiled himself up again, and laid quietly in his usual torpid state for about three weeks or a month, when, his last meal appearing to be com- pletely digested and dissolved, he was pre- sented with another goat, which he devoured with equal facility. It would appear that almost all he swallows is converted into nutrition, for a small quantity of calca- reous matter (and that, perhaps, not a tenth part of the bones of the animal)

with occasionallv some of the hairs,

«/

seemed to compose his general feces ; — and this may account for these animals being able to remain so long without a supply of food. He had more difficulty in killing a fowl than a larger animal, the former being too small for his grasp.

Few of those who had witnessed his first exhibition were desirous of being present at the second. A man may be impelled by curiosity, and a wish to ascertain the truth of a fact frequently stated, but which seems almost incredible, to satisfy his own mind by ocular proof; but he will leave the

262 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

scene with those feelings of horror and dis- gust, which such a sight is well calculated to create. It is difficult to behold, without the most painful sensation, the anxiety and trepidation of the harmless victim, or to ob- serve the hideous writhing of the serpent around his prey, and not to imagine what our own case would be in the same helpless and dreadful situation.

A lion, a tiger, and other beasts of prey, are sufficiently terrible ; but they seldom, unless strongly urged by hunger, attack human beings, and generally give some sort of warning ; but, against the silent, sly, and insidious approach of a snake, there is no guarding, nor any escape when once en- twined within his folds.

As we approached the Cape of Good Hope, this animal began to droop, as was then supposed, from the increasing cold- ness of the weather, (which may probably have had its influence,) and he refused to kill some fowls which were offered to him. Between the Cape and St. Helena he was found dead in his cage; and, on dissection, the coats of his stomach were discovered

TO CHINA. 263

to be excoriated and perforated by worms. Nothing remained of the goat except one of the horns, every other part being dis- solved.

It may here be mentioned, that, during a captivity of some months at Whidah, in the kingdom of Dahomey, on the coast of Africa, the author of this narrative had opportunities of observing snakes more than double the size of this one just de- scribed ; but he cannot venture to say whether or not they were of the same species, though he has no doubt of their being of the genus Boa. They killed their prey, however, precisely in a similar manner ; and, from their superior bulk, were capable of swallowing animals much larger than goats or sheep. Governor Ab- son, who had for thirty-seven years resided at Fort William, (one of the African Com- pany's settlements here,) described some desperate struggles which he had either seen, or came to his knowledge, between the snakes and wild beasts, as well as the smaller cattle, in which the former were always victorious. A negro herds-

264 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

man belonging to Mr, Abson (who after- wards limped for many years about the fort) had been seized by one of these monsters by the thigh; but, from his situa- tion in a wood, the serpent, in attempting to throw itself around him, got entangled with a tree; and the man, being thus pre- served from a state of compression which would have instantly rendered him quite powerless, had presence of mind enough to cut with a large knife, which he car- ried about with him, deep gashes in the neck and throat of his antagonist, thereby killing it, and disengaging himself from his alarming situation. He never after- wards, however, recovered the use of that limb, which had sustained considerable injury from his fangs, and the mere force of his jaws.

These larger reptiles are seldom ob- served to be venomous, the smaller tribe being, in this respect, much more dan- gerous.

In this country they had a smaller species of snake, called Daboa, which is the object of their worship and adoration.

TO CHINA. 265

It is perfectly harmless, (to larger crea- tures,) and is tameable. Great attention is paid to any that are found, being lodged in their temples, and fed by the priestesses with rats, mice, and smaller animals. People who are sick apply to it for relief; and, should one of them happen to entwine itself around a preg- nant woman, it is considered the happiest possibJe omen for herself and child. In this state she proudly marches through the town, sanctified, as it were, by the attachment of the snake, which encircles her naked frame ; and followed by crowds, those who meet her falling on their knees, and snapping their fingers (the usual salutation) as she passes.

The Ourang Outang, also a native of Borneo, is an animal remarkable not only from being extremely rare, but as possess- ing, in many respects, a strong resemblance to man. What is technically "denominated the cranium is perfectly human in its ap- pearance ; the shape of the upper put of the head, the forehead, the eyes (which are dark and full), the eye-lashes, and, indeed.

266 VOYAGE OF H. M.S. ALCESTE

every thing relating to the eyes and ears, differing jh no respect from man. The hair of his head, however, is merely the same which covers his body generally. The nose is very flat, — the distance between it and the mouth considerable ; the chin, and, in fact, the whole of the lower jaw, is very large, and his teeth, twenty-six in number, are strong. The lower part of his face is what may be termed an ugly, or caricature, likeness of the human countenance. The position of the scapulae, or shoulder blades, the general form of the shoulders and breasts, as well • as the figure of the arms, the elbow-joint especially, and the hands, strongly continue the resemblance. The metacarpal, or that part of the hand imme- diately above the fingers, is somewhat elon- gated ; and, by the thumb being thrown a little higher up, nature seems to have adapted the hand to his mode of life, and given him the power of grasping more effectually the branches of trees.

He is corpulent about the abdomen, or, in common phrase, rather pot-bellied, look- ing like one of those figures of Bacchus

TO CHINA. 267

often seen riding on casks ; but whether this is his natural appearance when wild, or acquired since his introduction into new society, and by indulging in a high style of living, it is difficult to determine.

His thighs and legs are short and bandy, the ankle and heel like the human ; but the fore part of the foot is composed of toes, as long and as pliable as his fingers, with a thumb a little situated before the inner ankle ; this conformation enabling him to hold equally fast with his feet as with his hands. When he stands erect he is about three feet high, and he can walk, when led, like a child ; but his natural locomotion, when on a plane surface, is supporting himself along, at every step, by placing the knuckles of his hands upon the ground. All the fingers, both of the hands and feet, have nails exactly like the human race, except the thumb of the foot, which is without any.

His natural food would appear to be all kinds of fruit and nuts ; but he eats biscuit, or any other sort of bread, and sometimes

268 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

animal food. He will drink grog, or even spirits, if given to him ; and has been known repeatedly to help himself in this way : he was also taught to sip his tea or coffee, and, since his arrival in England, has discovered a taste for a pot of porter. His usual con- duct is not mischievous, and chattering like that of monkeys in general ; but he has rather a grave and sedate character, and is much inclined to be social, and on good

o

terms, with every body. He made no diffi- culty, however, when cold, or inclined to sleep, in supplying himself with any jacket he found hanging about, or in stealing a pillow from a hammock, in order to lie more soft and comfortably.

Sometimes when teased by shewing him something to eat, he would display in a very strong manner the human pas- sions, following the person whining and crying, throwing himself off on his back, and rolling about apparently in a great rage, attempting to bite those near him, and frequently lowering himself by a rope over the ship's side, as if pretending

TO CHINA. 269

to drown himself; but, when he came near the water's edge, he always reconsidered the matter, and came on board again. He would often rifle and examine the pockets of his friends in quest of nuts and biscuits, which they sometimes carried for him. He had a great antipathy to the smaller tribe of monkeys, and would throw them overboard if he could ; but in his general habits and disposition there is much docility and good nature, and, when not annoyed, is ex- tremely inoffensive. He approaches, upon the whole, nearer to the human kind than any other animal.

On the 2?th May we anchored in Simon's Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope, from which we sailed again on the llth of June, steering for St. Helena, where we arrived on the 27th. The exterior of this island has much of that appearance which induced Madame Bertrand to term it the birth- place of the demon of Ennui ; but the in- terior is not destitute of beauties, for there are many very pleasing spots situated in its different valleys.

270 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

One cannot help, in contemplating the calm tranquillity which reigns about Long- wood (now the peaceful habitacion of the greatest agitator of the world), being forci- bly struck by the great mutability of human affairs.

Buonaparte had for a considerable time past been very retired and difficult of access, but he was perfectly disposed to see Lord Amherst; and on the day pre- vious to our departure his lordship rode out there, accompanied b}T the gentlemen of his suite. He was introduced by Ber- trand with not a little form, and had, as well as Mr. Ellis, a very long private conver- sation previous to the introduction of the other gentlemen, wrho in the mean time were attended by Generals Bertram!, Mon- tholon, and Gourgaud, in the next room. At last they also were ushered in ; and a ring having been formed by the Marshal round the principal personage of the group, Lord Amherst presented to him fust Captain Maxwell, to whom he bowed very civilly, and said his name was not unknown to

TO CHINA.

271

him ; observing, he had commanded on an occasion where one of his frigates, La Po- mone, was taken in the Mediterranean. " Vous etiez trfa mtchant — Eh bien! your government must not blame you for the loss of the Alceste, for you have taken one of my frigates/' He said he was very happy to see young Jeffery Amherst, and good-humouredly asked him what pre- sents he had brought with him from China, and so forth.

The author of this narrative he interro- gatedaboutthe length of time he had served, and whether he had been wounded ; re- peating the last question in English.

Proceeding next to Mr. Abel, (who was introduced as naturalist,) he inquired if he belonged to the Royal Society, or any of the public institutions, or was a candidate for that honour ; asking if he had been happy, in this voyage, in making any dis- coveries in natural history, which could add to our stock of knowledge on that subject. Whether he knew Sir Joseph Banks, whose name, he said, was a passport in France ;

272 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE

and his wishes always attended to, even during war.

Mr. Cooke's name induced him to ask if he was a descendant of the celebrated navigator ; observing, " You had a Cook, who was, indeed, a great man/' He re- quested to know, on Dr. Lynn being pre- sented, at what university he had studied. — " At Edinburgh" was the reply. — " Edin- boorg \" he repeated ; and went on to in- terrogate him whether he was a Brunonian in practice; or if he bled and gave as much mercury as our St. Helena doctors.

Mr. Griffith, the chaplain, was next in- troduced, whom Buonaparte termed I'Au- monier, and pronouncing, also, in English, clair-gee-man. " Well, sir/' he continued, " have you found out what religion the Chi- nese profess V Mr. G. replied it was some- what difficult to say ; but it seemed a sort of polytheism. Not appearing to understand the meaning of this word, spoken in Eng- lish, Bertrand remarked " PluraliteckDieiLr" — " Ahl pluralite deDieux? said he; " do they believe in the immortality of the soul ?" " I

TO CHINA. 273

think they have some idea of a future state" was the reply. " Well," said Buonaparte, " when you go home you must get a gocd living ; I wish you may be made a pre- bendary, sir/' Proceeding to Mr. Hayne, he also questioned him in some general way ; and having now completed the circle, and said something to every body, he very courteously bowed to each of the party as they retired, who all felt much gratified at the opportunity of the interview. Although there was nothing descending in his manner, yet it was affable and polite ; and, whatever may be his general habit, he can behave himself very prettily if he pleases. He is by no means so corpulent as is usually re- presented, and his health appears to be excellent. Longwood, from its situation, ought certainly to be highly salubrious. On the 2d of July we sailed from St. Helena, touched at the Island of Ascension on the 7th, and, on the 12th, crossed the line, and got into our own hemisphere. Our passage homewards was extremely favour- able, on the 16th of August making the

T

274 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE TO CHINA.

land, and the next morning brought us to Spithead, from whence we landed once more in our native isle; not merely with the common feeling of happiness which all mankind naturally enjoy on revisiting the land of their birth, but with those sensa- tions of pride and satisfaction with which every Briton may look round him, in his own country, after having seen all others.

END OF THE NARRATIVE.

APPENDIX.

No. I.

ON our arrival at Portsmouth, a court-martial (as is usual in the navy) was held on board the Queen Char- lotte, to inquire into all the circumstances attending the loss of the ship, and into the conduct of the officers and men on that occasion; composed of Captaia Sir Archi- bald Dickson, Bart. President; Captains Alexander, Dacres, Meynell, and Hickey ; Moses Greatham, Judge Advocate ; when, after Captain Maxwell's interesting nar- rative, detailing the facts relative thereto, having been read, and a number of witnesses examined on the various state- ments contained in it, the Court pronounced the following sentence, after the usual preamble : —

" Having maturely and deliberately weighed and consi- " dered the whole, the Court is of opinion that the loss " of his Majesty's late ship Alceste was caused by her " striking on a sunken rock, until then unknown hi the *' Straits of Gaspar. That Captain Murray Maxwell, ' previous to the circumstance, appeared to have con-

T 2

276 APPENDIX.

" ducted himself in the most zealous and officer-like inan- " ner; and, after the ship struck, his coolness, self-col- " lection, and exertions, were highly conspicuous ; and " that every thing was done by him and his officers, " within the power of man to execute, previous to the " loss of the ship, and afterwards to preserve the lives of " the Right Honourable Lord Amherst, his Majesty's " Embassador, and his suite, as well as those of the " ship's company, and to save her stores on that occa- " sion ; and therefore adjudge the said Captain Murray " Maxwell, his officers and men, to be most fully " acquitted."

The Court was very crowded, and there were present Lords Amherst and Colchester. The former, being examined by the Court, stated, '* that he had se- " lected Captain Maxwell, on the occasion of the em- " bassy, from motives of personal friendship, as well as " from the high opinion he entertained of his professional " character, which opinion had been much increased by " the events of this voyage."

APPENDIX. 277

No. II.

CHRONOLOGICAL LIST of the Kings of Lewcherc, from the End of the Twelfth Century, to the Beginning

of last.

.

First Year of Duration of

their Reign. Lired. Reign.

NAMES OF KINGS.

A. D. Yean. Years.

Chun-tien 118? 72 51

Chun-Machuny, son of Chun-tien . 1238 64 11

Ypen, son of Chun-Machuny - ... 1249 — * —

Yn-tsou 1260 71 40

Ta-tching, son of Yn-tsou 1301 — 9

Yn-tse, second son of Ta-tching.. 1309 — 5

Yu-tching, fourth son of Yn-tse .. 1314 — 23

Ly-Oucy, son of Yu-tching .... 1337 23 14

Tsay-tou 1350 — 46

Ou-ning, son of Tsay-tou 1396 — —

Tse-chao, son of Ou-ning 1406 — 16

Chang-pa-tchi, son of Tse-chao .. 1424 68 18 Chang-tchong, second son of

Chang-pa-tchi 1440 54 —

Chang-tse-ta, son of Chan-tchong . 1445 42 5 Chang-kin-foo, paternal uncle of

Chang-tse-ta 1450 52 4

Chang-tai-kieou, brother of Chang- kin-foo 1454 46 T

278 APPENDIX.

NAMES OF KINGS.

First-Ye»T of Duration of

tbeir R'ign. Lired. Rrign.

A. D. Yean. Year*.

Chang-te, third son of Chang-

ta-kieon 1461 29 9

Chan-y-ven 1 470 62 7

Chang-tching, sonof Chang-y-ven. . 1477 62 50

Chang-tsing, third son of Cbang-

tching 1527 59 29

Chang-y-ven, second son of Chang- tsing 1556 45 17

Chartg-yong, second son of Chang- y-ven 1573 35 16

Chang-ning, grandson of Chung-

tsing 1 588 57 S2

Chang-fong, descendant of a bro- ther of Chang-yong 1 6<2 1 . 51 20

Chang-hien, third son of Chang-fong 1641 23 7

Chang-tche, brother of Chang-hien 1648 40 21

Chang-tching, son of Chang-hien. . 1669 65 41

Chang-pen, grandson of Chang- tching 1710 34 3

Chang-king, son of Chang-pen. ... 1713 — —

The above list being copied, by Pere Gaubil, from the

Chinese Report of Suppa-Koang, they have, in that translation from the original language, no doubt, acquired their present Chinese character of expression.

APPENDIX.

279

No. III.

NAMES and SITUATION of the Lezvchew Islands, according to the same authority..

To the North-eastward.

Yoii-chang-pou

Fokou

Yeoula

Oa-kinou

Kia-ki-luma

Tatao (of considerable size)

Ki-ki-ai

To the South and Westward. Typin chan,orMa-kou-chan Ykima Yleang-pa Koulirna Talama Mienna Oukorai Pat-chong-chan Palouma •Yeouni Koumi Kaumi

Te-ke-tou-non Kauli-che-ma Ola-ke-se-kou Pa-tou-li-ma

To the North and Westward.

Gan-kiui-chan

Kichan

Ye-Kichan

Lun-koan-chan (or Sulphur

Island) Mat-che-chan, surrounded

by five islets Another Mat-che-chan Koumi- chan

To the Eastward, Kon-ta-tia Tsin-kinou Ysi Pama

The whole situate at va- rious distances, extending from the main island to- wards Japan, Corea, and the island of Formosa, four only lying to the eastward.

280

APPENDIX.

No. IV.

MR. FISHER collected a few of the I^ewchewan words, which may tend to give some idea of the sound of their language.

Beard.

Button.

Book.

Bite.

Boat \vith Sails.

Boat rowed with Oars.

Brunches of Trees.

Comb.

Chair.

Cows.

Cold.

Cut.

Candle.

Coffin.

Come a shore.

Cloth.

Colours (Ensign).

Coral.

Figoo.

Tama.

Shumutsee.

Quayon.

Tima.

Chunee.

Tanuii.

Sabachee.

Ee.

Ooshu.

Fuisa.

Chichau.

Doe.

Quan.

Chung.

Dasha.

Chuata.

Ooru.

APPENDIX.

281

Come here.	Cuma cay-chung.
Day.	Okiou.
Drink.	iN'ummee.
Dead.	Sijoug.
Eye.	Me.
Egg.	Cooga.
JEarth.	Sinna.
Eat.	Conun.
Fingers.	Ibec.
Feet.	Fisha.
Fowls.	Fuee.
Fan.	Ogee.
Fan-ning.	Ogee-shun.
Fish-ing.	Juh-shun.
Goat.	Figa.
Good.	Yuti.ssa.
Grave (for dead).	Hacka.
Good-by, or adieu.	Wa-coutee.
God.	Joh.
Gong.	Caniutchung.
Hair.	Carasee.
Hat.	Camuree.
He.	Adee.
Handkerchief.	Sagee.
Horse.	Mah.
•Head-pin with a star-head.	Camesashee.
Head-pin with a scoop-head	. Usisashee.
How do you do ?	Uga-ina-bidda ?
Ink.	Tamagufing.
Jar.	Tusaadzee.
I or me.	Oau.
I will come again.	Atucara.

282

APPENDIX.

I do not understand.

I thauk you.

I will go.

1 v, ill sing.

Knife.

Lurge.

Moon.

Musquito,

Milk.

Man.

Nose.

Nails.

Night.

Not good.

No.

Oil.

Paper.

Potatoes (sweet)

Physician or Surgeon.

Priest.

Pig.

Rain.

Riding.

Sun.

Stars.

Shoes.

Stones.

Sit down.

Ship (large).

Ship (small).

Sleep.

Sick.

Chi-carang. Ca-fush.

O& Atchung.

Oa Utshaug.

Sigu.

Utisha.

Stee.

Gadjang.

Chee.

Ekegah.

Hana.

Cimee.

Masta.

Wassa.

Arang.

Unda.

Cabee.

Moo.

Isha.

Bozy.

Oa.

Amuie.

Ditaugin.

Tida.

Hushee

Saba.

Ishee.

Iree.

Ufubuny.

Cubunee.

Ninjun.

Yadon.

APPENDIX.

283

Sailor.

Shell.

Silk.

Stone-mason.

Square used by ditto.

Serpent.

Sea.

Sand.

Sash or Girdle, worn by the Lewchewans.

Stop.

Small.

Teeth.

Trowsers.

Trees.

Tobacco-pipe.

To bring.

Tea.

Temple, or house of wor- ship in the garden, where the sick were.

Umbrella.

Very good.

Water.

Wind.

Wood.

Woman.

You.

You give me.

Yes.

You are a good fellow.

Biotee.

Keh.

Duusy.

Ichi-secu.

Banjoganee

Onegha.

Ooshu.

Sinna.

Ubu. Ichuna. Coosa. Ha.

Jacama. Ifcoojee. Tsidee. 'Toute-coo. Cha (Chinese).

Jah Joh.

Cassa.

Churissa.

Midzee

Casechute.

Kee.

Inago.

Ya.

Yare Curran.

Simung.

Churamung.

284

APPENDIX.

NUMERALS.

1 Titsee.

2 Tatsee.

3 Metsee.

4 Yutsee.

5 Ititsee.

6 Mutsee.

7 Nanatsee.

8 Jatsee.

9 Cucunutsee.

10 Too.

11 Too-Titsee.

12 Too-Tatsee, and so on to

nineteen.

20 Nijoo.

21 Nijoo-Titsee, &c.

30 Sanjoo.

31 Sanjoo-Titsee, &c.

40 Sinjoo.

41 Sinjoo-Titsee, &c.

50 Gunjoo.

51 Gunjoo-Titsee, &c.

60 Docodoo.

61 Docodoo-Titsee, &c.

70 Stigoo.

71 Stigoo-Titsee, &c.

80 Hacheegoo.

81 Hachegoo-Titsee, &c.

90 Cunjoo.

91 Cunjoo-Titsee, &c. 100 Hiacoo.

The numbers after each ten were always repeated in a manner similar to our own arithmetic.

APPENDIX. 285

No. V. THE FAREWELL.

[The insertion of the folio-wing verses, by Mr. Gillard, Clerk of the Lyra, may not, perhaps, be deemed irrelevant to the sub- ject, as they express not only his own, but the general senti- ments, on leaiing the worthy Islanders at Grand

THE sails are set, — the anchor weigh'd;

Their course, south-west, the ships pursue And, friendly signs at parting made, We bid the land a last adieu !

From crowded boats, that grace our wake, In cap and vest but seldom wore,

Their last " FAREWELL" the natives take, And, half-reluctant, seek the shore.

Each cliffs rude height and sea-worn base Presents a silent gazing throng ;

Where e'en regret may find a place, As swift the vessels pass along.

286 APPE1VDIX.

And now the harbour's far astern ;

The dang'rous reefs in distance fade :— No object can the eye discern

Without the glass's friendly aid.

Yet, while the anxious straining sight Can still behold the fleeting shore,

The telescope shall yield delight, And all its pleasing scenes restore.

Again the rocks and tombs appear, The trees and straw-built huts arise,

Where constant guards were plac'd, by fear, To screen each beauty from our eyes.

The path beside the wat'i ing-place, Where branching pines adorn (he lull,

Th' assisted eye can faintly trace,

And mark its nurn'rous windings still.

There, too, the stone enclosure stands, Within whose high extensive walls

The Pagan native lifts his hands, And on his wooden idol calls.

Yet ye, who boast the Christian name,

Blush at a deed which truth must tell; — Hither they brought the sick and lame, . And bade them iu their temples dwell.

APPENDIX. 287

From noise and crowded decks remov'd,

TV infirm inhal'd a purer air ; And native kindness daily prov'd

They bless the hand that led them there.

In yonder grove's encircling shade, Where time will long the truth attest,

The last sad rites by strangers paid, A youthful seaman's ashes rest.

What tho' Oblivion o'er his name

May spread her veil of deepest gloom,

Full many a fav'i ite child of fame Would not disdain an equal tomb.

Yet not the sick their thoughts confin'd,

Nor yet th' interment of the dead ; The living still they bore in mind,

And gave the ships their daily bread.

Wrhile friendship thus was shewn to all,

. Congenial minds attach 'd a few ; And mem'ry oft will pleas'd recall

The names of" Mad'ra," and " Geroo."

Farewell, dear isle ! — on you may breath

Of civil discord never blow ! Far from your shores be plague and death,

And far — oh ! far — the hostile foe !

APPENDIX.

To distant climes our course we steer, AVhere Fashion boasts her splendid reign;

Where Science, Fame, and Wealth, appear, While Lux'ry reve.ls in their train.

Meanwhile, ne'er 'mid your smiling scenes May Pride and fierce Ambition spring !

Ne'er may they know what mis'ry means, Which Vice and Dissipation bring !

Still on your sons may Plenty shine,

Still may their happiness increase ; And Friendship long their hearts entwine

With love, with innocence, and peace.

No more ; — for now the fresh'uing breeze

Impels us swiftly o'er the deep ; Your verdant shores no longer please,

And faint appear your mountains steep.

Their summits now are cloth 'd in gray,

And scarce the eye their place can tell ;

/*

And now they're melted quite away, —

Once more, DEAR ISLAND, FARE THEE WELL!

THE END.

Printed by W. CLOWES, Northu«ib«laod-conrt, Sinnd, London.

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