NATAL
ILLUSTRATED
nia OFFICIAL
1 RAILWAY GUIDE'AND GENERAL HAND 'BOOK
aCSB LIER&KJ
NATAL:
OFFICIAL ILLUSTRATED RAILWAY GUIDE
AND
GENERAL HANDBOOK.
>>
ATAL
i* AN ILLUSTRATED
OFFICIAL RAILWAY GUIDE AND HANDBOOK OF GENERAL
IN FORMA I ION. compiled & edited by C. W. FRANCIS HARRISON.
PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY.
LONDON: ^ PAYNE JENNINGS,
REGENT HOUSE, REGENT ST.. W.
MDCCCCIIl.
PREFACE.
WTTH the establishment of a firm and honourable Peace, there dawns on the Sub- continent of Africa an era of prosperity more resplendent than any it has ever known : and in the conception and realisation of the vast developments which will surely rise from the ashes of the past Natal may be relied upon to con- tribute her portion as cheerfully as she shared the sorrows, labours, and misfortunes of the late inevitable war.
Some years anterior to the struggle, the South African States were but little heeded by the outside world, and in this neglect and disregard. Natal, with its delightful scenery', its great farming advantages and mineral wealth, its varied peoples and immense possibilities, was perhaps the greatest sufferer. Now the veil of obscurity has vanished ; it is no longer erroneously regarded as a shire of Cape Colony, but is well known to be a large self-governing State, and is universally renowned as one of the most desirable and interesting portions of South Africa.
Numbers of emigrants are proceeding to Natal, and to meet the requirements of these and other colonists, tourists, and travellers, this manual, containing the most recent information anent the Colony, has been compiled.
The volume is composed of two Books. The FIRST BOOK is a complete Guide to the Port, Railways, Battlefields. Towns, \'illages, Industries, and Attractions of Natal, embodying also brief articles upon the adjacent States, the Natal railwa\-s affording the quickest and prettiest route to the Transvaal and other Colonies.
The SECOND BOOK, which is also an official work of reference, gives in Hand-book form full and accurate information of a wide range and general character, useful to one and all.
An endeavour has been made to give a faithful picture of Natal, its features and many attractions as they stand at the present juncture. In this earnest task the former official guide (1895), an excellent compilation by Mr. J. Forsyth Ingram, F.R.G.S., has been of the most valuable assistance. But the Colony has advanced so e.xceedingly within the last eight years, that the material of the First Book is almost wholly new, while that of the Hand-book has been re- arranged, augmented, and revised.
It may be as well to point out, however, that while Natal realises the desirabihty of attracting to her shores farmers, traders, manufacturers, miners, mechanics, and other suitable emigrants, none but the best fitted and most energetic should seek to open up " fresh woods and pastures new," for, as it has been truly said, although the
Colony wants new blood, it must be accompanied by bodily muscle and mental grit. The battle of life may not be so fierce as it is at home, but it is equally arduous, and demands the utmost virility and moral stamina, ability, energy, and enterprise. In all instances, too, emigrants to Natal should, before embarking, acquire full information through the most reliable sources as to their |)articular trade or calling, and acquaint themselves as far as possible with the general conditions of life obtaining in the Colony. The latter is especially necessary in the case of invalids.
The publication, it will be observed, is profusely illustrated. The majority of the views have been specially taken to give a representative idea of the beauty, interest, and attractiveness of the land, and to harmonise with the descriptive portions of the work. The photographer to the Railway Department, Mr. S. S. Watkinson, and his assistant are deserving of the highest commendation for the care and artistic skill which they have employed in their comprehensive task. Acknowledgments are also due to other photographers for readilj' consenting to the reproduction of various views. In addition, the volume contains several other ser\'iceable and interesting features, such as the street ])lans of thi' chief towns, Durban and Pietcrmaritzburg: a map of Ladysmith, showing the surrounding historic portions of the country in elevation ; a large bird's eye map of the entire war district, with full notes and references; and a General and Railway map of the Colony. The ma])s and plans which have been most carefully compiled in the Official Departments concerned, are furnished with the fullest detail. To all who have participated in their coni]Mlation cordial thanks are hereby tendered.
In conclusion, the compiler also desires to express his gratitude to the courteous offiiceis of the several Government and Municipal Departments, the experts on various subjects, and many other ]iublic and private gentlemen who have rendered such willing and valued co-operation and assistance during the preparation of tliis work.
C.W.F.H.
DURB.AN,
NATAL.
CONTENTS.
FIRST BOOK.
A GUIDE TO THE
PORT, RAILWAYS, BATTLEFIELDS, TOWNS, VILLAGES,
INDUSTRIES, AND ATT^^ACTIONS OF
NATAL,
INCLUDING ALSO USEFUL INFORMATION ANENT THE ORANGE RIVER COLONY, AND THE TRANSVAAL.
PART ONE: THE PORT AND TOWN OF DURBAN. Chapter I. From Roadside to Quay
II.
III.
The Poi.st and its Work
The Seaport Tow.n of Durban
PART TWO: THE MAIN LINE OF RAILW.W.
PAGES
3- 8 9 — 12
'3- 30
EN ROUTE TO THE TRANSVAAL THROUGH THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS AND BATTLEFIELDS OF NATAL.
Chapter I. From Durba.n' to Pinetoun II. .. Pinetown to I.nchanga
[II. ,, ISCHANGA TO PlETERM ARITZBURG
IV. The City of Pietermaritzburg
V. From Pietermaritzburg to Modi River
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33— |
42 |
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42— |
47 |
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47— |
51 |
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51 — |
b^ |
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63- |
75 |
PART THREE: THE MAIN LINE OF RAILWAY (Continl'rd|.
Chapter I. „ II. ,, III.
„ IV.
V. „ VI. ,. VII.
.. VIH.
THROUGH THE WAR DISTRICT.
Introductory ...... ^g — So
From Mooi River to Chievelev .... 80 — 86
CoLENso — Its Battlefields ..... 86 — 96
From Colenso to Ladysmith via the Valley of Tugela and
Pieters Heights . . . . . g- — loi
Historic Ladysmith .... toi — 105
The Ladysmith Battlefields, Spion Kop, and Vaal Krantz - 106 — 119 From Ladysmith to Glen'coe Junction, and the Dundee District:
Through the Scenes of the First Battles 119 — 12S
Glencoe Junction to Charlestown - - 129 — 136
PART FOUR: TOWARDS THE RAND.
Chapter I. From Charlestown to Johannesburg II. Johannesburg
III. Pretoria
IV. Concerning the Transvaal
139—142 142—147
147— '49 149—150
PART FIVE: THE NORTH COAST BRANCH LINE TO ZULULAND.
Chapter I. A Note ....--. 153
II. From Greyville to Vekulam . - - - . 133 — 162
III. ,, VerULAM to StANGER ----- 162 — 165
IV. The Tea District — .\ Glance at Kearsney and its Light Railway 166 — 16S V. From Stanger to Zululand ..... 168 — 172
VI. Concerning Zululand ----- - 172 — 173
CONTENTS (continued).
PAKT SIX: THE SOUTH COAST BRANCH LINE. Chapter I. Hints to Tourists and Others
H. .. III. .. IV.
V. .. VI.
HART SEVEN :
Chapter I.
II.
,. III.
.. IV.
'77
From South Coast Junction to Isipingo — Mto thk Bi.uff Line 178- 179
„ Isipingo to Lower U.mkomaas .... iSo — 185
Lower Umkomaas to Alexandra Junction and the Umzinto
Branch ...... 186 igi
.Alexandra Junction to Port Shepstone . - 191—197
Via Port Shepstone to Harding through Alfred County ig8
OTHER BRANCH LINES OF RAILWAY AND POST CART SERVICE TO BULWER.
The Richmond Branch and Beyond joi J05
Greytown Branch and Beyond .... 205—212
„ Harrismith Branch and Orange River Colony ■ - 212 — 220
By Post Cart to Bulwer (Ipolela District). The New Cape Line 221 - 223
SECOND BOOK.
H.ANDBOOK OF GENER.AL INFORM.ATION.
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PAGES |
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Intkohlctoky Notes |
226 |
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Position and .-Vrea |
227 |
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Physical Geography |
227 |
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Mountain System |
- 227—229 |
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Rivers - |
229 |
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Geology |
- 230—232 |
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Forests |
232 |
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Flora, Fruits, Cereals, &c. |
- 232 238 |
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Fauna, &c. |
- 238—245 |
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Ento.molooical . |
- 245—247 |
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Ga.me Laws |
■ 248-^49 |
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Climatic Conditions, &c. |
249 |
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Meteorological Tables |
250 |
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Population |
250 |
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Peoples |
251—255 |
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Counties, Towns, Villages, &c. |
255 256 |
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Government |
257 — 260 |
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Law and Courts |
260—262 |
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Education |
262- |
-26, |
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Railways |
263 |
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Garrisons, Volunteers, Mounted |
||
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Police |
263- |
264 |
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Municipal System |
264 |
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Postal and Telegraph Systems ■ |
265 |
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Press . - . . |
26s |
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Social Conditions |
265 |
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Finance |
266- |
267 |
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Native and Crown Lands |
267 |
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Commerce |
267 |
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Industries, Manufactures, Mines, |
&c. |
268 |
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Productions |
268- |
-270 |
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Stock - - - . |
270 — 271 |
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Department of Agriculture |
271- |
-272 |
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Department of Mines - |
272 |
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ZULl'l.AND |
272 |
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Useful laformation (or Emigrants |
273 |
THE RAILWAYS OF NATAL: A SHORT REVIEW.
PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE The Infant Line Govern.ment System Statistics, &c.
Direct Line to the Transvaal Scenery and Attractions Comfort of Passengers Improvements
Industries, Developments, Surveys
274 274 276—277 278 278 78 280
280—281
PRACTICAL WORKING:
Some Difficulties - • 281 — 282 Principal Buildings, Works, and
Departments ■ 282 — 287
General Management, &c. 287
Social Institutions ■ 287
THE WAR PERIOD:
Military Traffic, Summary of 288
The Earlier Stages of the War 288—290
Services of the Department - 290
.. Staff 290
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
Frontispiece
Floreat Natalia
River Scene, Xatal
Durban from the Berea
Liner Entering the Harbour, Port Natal
Entrance to Harbour . - - -
Lighthouse and Signalling Station, Durban -
Cave Rock, Bluff— Main Wharf, Point —
Bayside — Durban . . . .
Paul's Wharf - - - . -
Sailing Ships, Durban - - . -
Coaling a Liner — The Jetty, Point Quayside Road, Point — Suction Dredger,
Newquay Wall — Paul's Wharf — Durban " The Victorian " at Paul's Wharf: Landing
Troops — Departure of Royal Dublin Fusiliers
from Durban, 1902 — Main Wharf — Durban Bird's Eye View of Durban, East Bird's Eye View of The Point Market Hall, Durban - . . -
Wesleyan Church and Standard Bank, West
Street, Durban . . . .
Cricket on the Oval, Albert Park Government Hospital, Addington — Roman
Catholic Church — Durban - Jinricksha Boys . - , .
Point - - ^ - - .
Vasco Da Gania Monument, Point The Back Beach, Durban Court House, West Street, Durban Town Hall and Public Baths, Durban West Street — St. Paul's Church — The Town
Hall — Interior of Museum - Town Gardens and Queen Victoria Statue,
Durban . - . . -
South African Mutual Buildings, Durban The Esplanade, Gardiner Street Turning R. N. Yacht Club. Durban Bayside Villa, St. Andrew Street — Banyan
Tree, Albert Park — Durban - Girls' Model Government School — West
Street, Durban ....
Observatory. Durban - - - :
On the Berea, Durban . - - -
Maris Stella Convent — Presbyterian Church —
Berea . . . . .
Race Course, Durban . . - .
Railway Street : Entrance to Railway Station — Post Office — Durban
Electric Trams . _ . .
Johannesburg Mail, Durban Station - Durban : West End and Berea The Bay .....
Train Ascending "Jacob's Ladder'" — Sugar
Refinery, South Coast Junction Fruit Farms, Malvern ... -
Among the Pineapples Kafir Girls Getting Water At the Waterworks : Pinetown Reservoirs - Umbilo Falls (Pinetown Waterworks) Mariannhill Monastery Palmiet Falls, near Pinetown - The Gorge, Krantz Kloof On the N.G.R., near Botha's Hill
13 14
13 16
16
17 18 18
ig 19 20
23 23 24
24
25 26
27
28 29
29 30
33 34 34
35 36 37 38
39 40
41 43 44 45
Group of Natives . - . -
By Rail and Road, near Botha's Hill -
Cato Ridge Station . - . -
River Umsindusi ....
Source of the Umsindusi
Pietermaritzburg from Town Hill
Railway Station, Pietermaritzburg
Market Square — Church Street— Scott's Bridge
— Dorp Spruit — Maritzburg - Cathedral Bells ....
Colonial Offices, Maritzburg — Opening oi
Town Hall, Maritzburg by T.R.H. the
Duke and Duchess of York, August, 1901 ■ Town Hall : Interior — Government House —
Legislative Buildings — Post Office and Court
House — Maritzburg Presentation of War Medals and Review of
Colonial Troops, Alexandra Park. August,
igoi .....
Picnic Party Crossing a Drift - In the Park, Maritzburg Entrance to the Park — Sir Theophilus Shep-
stone Monument — The College -In the
Botanical Gardens — Maritzburg Interior of Theatre, Maritzburg Umsindusi River Falls -
Lovers' Walk, Alexandra Park, Maritzburg Edendale Falls
Civilized Wedding, Edendale Mission Station Camp Drift, Maritzburg Kafir Chief Teteleku - Sweet Waters - • • *
On the N.G.R., near Boshoff's Road - Howick Falls - - - -
Umgeni River, Howick Falls near Howick The Devil's Pyramid, Impendhla Cmgeni River . . . - -
An Up-Country Orchard River Scene, Midlands, Natal - Michael House College, Balgowan Drakensberg . . . - -
Drakensberg, Basutoland Border Eagle's Nest Peak, Drakensberg Recollections of the War : iSgg-igoo ■ Highlands Station .... Brynbella Hill— Beacon Hill ■ Estcourt .....
Railwav Bridge, Frere — Railway Bridge over
Bushman's River, Estcourt - Site of Armoured Train Disaster, p-rere Chieveley Military Cemetery — Graves at
Colenso .....
Graves at Colenso .... Colenso (shewing the Boer Positions, Dec.
15th, iSggI ..... British Position at Colenso, viewed from Fort
Wylie . - . - .
Where Lieut. Roberts fell at Colenso— Monu- ment to t4th Battery Colenso and River Tugela from Hlangwane
Hill - - . - - -
Tugela Ri\er at Colenso
PAGE
46
47 48
49 50 50 51
52 53
54
58 59 60 61 62
63 64
65 66
67 68
69 70 7' 72 72 73 73 74 74 75 78 80 81 82
83
84
85 86
87
87
88
Sg 91
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— continued
Monte Cristo Range and Tugela River
General Buller's Forces Crossing Pontoon Bridge ....
Boer Trenches at Colenso
Where the Dublins Crossed the Tugela, Colenso . . . . .
Top of Railway Hill, Colenso -
Tugela Heights, Colenso
New Railway Bridge at Colenso (from Fort VVyliel . . . . .
" Pom-pom " Bridge, Colenso
Tugela Falls, Colenso - . - -
Hart's Hill, Grobelaar's, & "Sheba's Breasts "
Irish Brigade Monument, Hart's Hill Monu- ment to Royal Dublin Fusiliers at Pompom Bridge — Graves, Railway Hill, near Pieters — Graves of Irish Brigade, Hart's Hill
Aasvogel's Kloof, near Pieters
Pieter's Hill and Monte Cristo
Klip River, Ladysmith - - . .
Railway Station -Railway Crossing — Town Hall — Ladysmith . . . .
Ladysmith . . . . .
Street Scene, Ladysmith
Biggarsberg . . . . .
Surprise Hill and Nicholson's Nek
Tinta Inyoni Battlefield— Nicholson's Nek Monument and Graves of the Gloucester Regt. Grave of the Irish Fusiliers Monu- ment Observation Hill Ladysmith-
Indomba Cemetery, near Ladysmith -
"Long Tom" Sangar. UmbuKvana Breast- works,Umbulwana — Gun Hilland Lombard's Kop, Ladysmith - . . .
Where Lient.-Col. Dick Cunyngham fell — Monument to Manchester Regt. on Cesar's Camp — 2nd Battalion Rifle Brigade: Monu- ment on Cx'sar's Camp — Imperial Light Horse Monument, Wagon Hill
Ladysmith from Wagon Hill -
Wagon Hill . . . . .
Spion Kop .....
Devonshire Regt. Monument, Wagon Hill — Cairn to Royal Engineers, Wagon Hill
Spion Kop (Intabamnyamal
Top of Spion Kop shewing Monuments and Graves - Monument to Imperial Light Infantry — King's Royal Rifles Monument — Spion Kop . - - . .
The Peaks, Spion Kop
Ladysmith Town Cemetery
Collieries at Elands Laagte
Graves. Elands Laagte Battlefield
Main Street, Dundee ...
Coal Mine, Dundee . . . .
Rorke's Drift .....
Isandhhvana Mountain, Zululand
Scene of the First Battle in Natal
Where General Sir William Penn-Symons fell
St. James's Church, Dundee
Kafir Corn . . . . .
Native Kraal . . . . .
Main Street, Newcastle
Majuba and Lang's Nek
Military Cemetery at Mount Prospect
92
93 94
95 95 96
97
g8 gS 99
100 100 loi 102
102
't>3 105 106 107
108 log
1 1 1
1 12 "3 "4
114
116
"7 118 120
121 122
123
124
'-'5 126
127
'^7 128 I2g 130 131 '33
Horse Shoe Curve, Ingogo
O'Neil's Farm, where the Treaty of 1881 \
signed ....
F'arm at the Base of Majuba - Johannesburg Mail at Foot of Majuba Heidelberg
Interior Park Station, Johannesburg Commissioner Street — Pritchard Street — Jo
hannesburg .... The Witwatersrand Goldfields Battery of Gold Mine on the Rand Joubert's Park — Johannesburg Hospital .March Past Lord Roberts of 85,000 British
Troops: Occupation of Pretoria. June 5, 1900 ChurchSlreet -Ciovernment Buildings- Dutch
Reformed Church Pretoria On the Umgeni Road . . . .
Hindoo Temple near Umgeni - Umgeni River and Rail and Road Bridges Sugar Mill. Mount Edgecombe Wesleyan Church, Verulam Indian F'ruit Sellers, Verulam - Tobacco Plantation near Verulam Native in War Costume Native Drinking Kafir Beer Cutting Sugar Cane . . . .
River Umhlali ....
Kafir with Head-dress of Feathers of the
"Sakabula" Bird . . . .
Picking Tea. Kearsney Kearsney Tea Estates — The Factory — The
Residence — Light Railway - Lower Tugela Rapids and Railway Bridge —
Lower "Tugela Railway Station — Crossing
the Tugela .... Eshowe . . . . .
Eshowe Post Cart .... Public School. Eshowe ~ Chief Dinizulu's
House, Eshowe ....
Natives Travelling - - ■ -
Zebras ... -
A Lagoon on the South Coast The Beach, Umhl.ili . . - -
Wests Station, Bluft', Durban Sugar Mill and Cane Fields The Heach, Isipingo On the South Coast Branch Line Amanzimtoti - -
A Kafir Girl - - -
Woodland Scenery Umkomaas - -
Lagoon, .Vmanzimtoti - -
Nelson's Drift, Umkomaas On the Umkomaas . - . -
South Coast Line . . -
Scottsburg Beach — Scottsburg Lighthouse Lagoon, .\lexandra Junction - On the Umzinto Branch Sugar Mill, Esperanza Umzinto Church Bridge over the Umzumi Umtwalumi : River and RaiUvay Bridge Railway Bridge, South Coast Line Port Shepstone . . . .
Port Shepstone : looking up the River
PAGE
134
'.34 '35 136 141 142
'43 144
145 146
147
148 '54 154 '55 '56 '57 158 158 160 161 163 164
165 166
167
168 i6g i6g
170 '7' '73 175
"77 178
'79 180 180 181 181 182 182
'83 .83 185 187 187 188 189 190 I go
191 192 ig2 '93 '94
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— continued
PAGE
On the Umzimkulu, Port Shepstone - - 194 St. Helen's Rock, Umzimkulu River. Port
Shepstone ----- ig^
Marble Quarries, Port Shepstone 197
" Place of Death," Port Shepstone ig8
Indians Crossing a Drift 201
Kafir Milking - - - 202
Dairy, Nel's Rust . - . - 202
Richmond ----- 203
Aloes - - - 204
Native Huts 204
Albert Falls, Umgeni River • - 206 New Hanover Railway Station — Sterk Spruit,
New HanoN'er . - - . 20S
Kafir Kraal and Cattle - ■ ■ ■ 209 Street Scene — Offices of Local Board — Dutch
Reformed Church — Greytown - - 210
Ostriches and Eggs, Natal - 2ti
The Drakensberg - • 213
Reversing Stations, Harrismith Branch 214
Van Reenen's Pass, N.G.R. Harrismith Branch 215
Bushmen's Drawings - - - . 216
Kloofs, near Van Reenen - 216
Harrismith - - 217
Source of the Tugela - - - - 218
The Bulwer Post Cart • 221
An Induna, or Head Man 222
Wife of a Kafir Chief - - 223
Mont Aux Sources - - 228
River Umzimkulu - - 229
Granite Outcrop. Inchanga ■ - 230
Native Studies - - . . 234
Encephalartos Altensteni - - 235
Giant Date Palms 236
A Pawpaw Tree . . - 237
Sub-Tropical Foliage - - 239
The Black Rhinoceros with Calf - • 239
Horns of the South .African Antelope
Natal Butterflies - - 243-
Praying Mantids (Hottentot Gods)
Queen Moth - . -
Natal Coast Moth - - ■ ■
A Typical Kafir Kraal — Kafir Wedding Dance
An Indian Girl - . -
Indian Fruit Sellers, Durban -
Natives ------
Natives at Food - - - -
A Kafir Witch Doctor . - . -
Interior of Kafir Hut -
A Pair of Lovers - . -
Sir Henry Edward McCallum, R.E., A.D.C., K.C.M.G., Governor of Natal
The Natal Ministrv : Year 1902
Sir Walter Peace, K. CM. G. -
Sir Henry Bale. K.C. - - - -
Brigadier-General. Sir John G. Dartiiell, K.C.B.
Tea Plantations - - - .
Sugar Cane Fields - - - .
Banana Avenue
Principal Officers, Natal Government Railways
N.G.R., Station Map - - - -
N.G.R., Diagram of Gradients
Lang's Nek 'Tunnel - _ . .
The Station Yard — Reid Engine and Load — Central Railway Station — New Loco. Erect- ting Shops — Interior New Loco. Erecting Shops — Durban . - - - 2S3
Botha's Hill Cutting - .. - 2S4
Pietermaritzburg Station Yard — Lower Tugela Bridge — Umbilo Bridge - - • 2S5
Lang's Nek (damagedl Tunnel — Colenso Bridge . . - - . 286
Carriage of lOO-lb Gun - ■ 287
Ladysmith Yard : Where shells fell - 289
PACE 241, 242 244 245 246
24S 251 252 252
254 255 257
258
259 261 262 264 265 268 270 275
279
281 282
• MAPS AND PLANS
Street Plan of Durban ------
,, ,, Pietermaritzburg - . - . .
Map, shewing British and Boer positions at Ladysmith (Boer War, 1899-1900) Map of Natal, shewing Counties, Towns, Villages, Productions, Railways, etc. Sketch Map of Railway Stations, Natal - - - -
Bird's Eye Map of War District -----
at p. 17 „ 61 „ 107 .> 227
M 279
(See Pocket Back Cover.)
FIRST BOOK.
GUIDE TO THE RAILWAYS OF NATAL,
HLC.
T
INTRODUCTORY NOTES
111-: (;iii)K TO THI-: kaii.wavs, ktc is oividki) into skvkn pakts.
These parts cover the whole of the Colony of Natal and Zuliiland, and include
interesting facts and items of useful information relative to the Orange River
and Transvaal Colonies, and the imiJortant towns of Harrismith in the former, and
Volksrust, Standerton, Heidelberg, Johannesburg, and Pretoria in the Transvaal
Colon\', the latter kindly supplied by Mr. Manfred Nathan.
The FIRST TWO PARTS are written in a narrative style, directing the attention of the reader to the many scenes of interest and attraction as he proceeds through the port and the town of Durban, and along the most picturesque portion of the Main Line of Railway as far as the Weir District.
PART THREE is a continuation of the trunk route, and traverses the heart of the area invaded by the Boers to the northernmost point of the Colony, where the Railway passes in to the Transvaal territory. This portion, besides embodying all necessary details concerning the agricultural, industrial, scenic, and other attractions of the country, has been treated in a distinctive fashion, and comprises in itself a complete and handy guide-book to the whole of the battlefields of Natal. A separate Introduction has been provided to this section (see page 79).
PART FOUR takes the traveller over the Railway System of the Tran.svaal to the great gold-mining centre, JOHANNESBURG, where ends the quickest and best route to that world-famed town and other places in the Transvaal, and one that affords the unique opportunity of a passing survey of the principal towns, immortal battlefields, and splendid scenery of Natal.
PART FIVE returns to Natal, and discusses the lovely South Coast Branch Line.
PART SIX deals with the more "industrial" Branch, the North Coast Line, and Zululand; and the PART SEVEN contains the Richmond, Greytown, and Harrismith Branches, and the Post-Cart route to the Ipolela District.
The Railway Stations, both on the Main Line and on the various branches, are placed in sequence, and the distance from Durban, the fares in operation therewith, as well as the altitude above the sea level, are plainly shewn.
All particulars as to the times of trains, accommodation, tickets, rates and fares, and other incidental details will be readily given on application to the Railway Officials in Natal; the Agent-General for the Colony, 26 Victoria Street, Westminster, London, Messrs. T. Cook and Sons, Ludgate Circus, London ; and other agencies.
It should be noted, that while every endeavour has been made to collect and supply the most accurate particulars in both Books, the authorities do not hold them- selves responsible for any errors through varj'ing conditions or other circumstances.
PART ONE.
THE PORT AND TOWN OF DURBAN.
DURBAN FROM THE BEREA
PART ONE.
CHAPTER I. FROM ROADSTEAD TO QUAY.
THERE are few more impressive scenes than the captivating panorama which is revealed when crossing the bar on the way to the Quay. There, crowned by a hghthouse and signal station, stands the majestic bush-clad Bluff; immediately before us is a waterway formed by two long stone piers ; be^'ond is the circular sweep of the Bay, embraced by wavy tiers of foliaged hills, and dotted with numerous villas ; below lies the town ; near to on the right are the ship- thronged wharves; and away to the North, backed by low undulating hills, is the coast line which trends towards Zululand, Delagoa Bay, Beira, and other East African ports and possessions.
As we enter the Harbour, the chief features of the Port are passed in closer view, and may be described as they occur : —
This submerged belt of sand is not permitted to impede navigation. Owing to the presence of the piers, and the continual deepening operations by means
THE BAR of powerful dredgers, a depth more than sufficient to admit to the wharves the largest vessels is now secured. As an illustration of the great improvement effected in recent years, the average low-water depth on the Bar in the year 1901 was 19 feet li inches, and the maximum draught of vessels across same 23 f?et (steamers), and 21 feet 11 inches (sailers). In iSgi the average depth was but 10 feet 9 inches, and the maximum draught 18 feet (steamers), and 17 feet (sailers).
LINER ENTERING THE HARBOUR, PORT NATAL
These works commence at a point about 2,200 feet seaward of the Bluff, and are
parallel for a considerable portion of tlieir length, being 800 feet apart, except at the head of the piers, where the width is 600 feet. The channel between the Bluff wharfage and the repairing jetty on the Point side attains a breadth of 1,100 feet. The summit of the Bluff proper is 211 feet above the sea. The lighthouse, which is
built of iron, is 81 feet in height, and gives a white revolving light (dioptric), at an altitude of 282 feet above high-water level. It reaches its greatest brilliancy once every minute, and is visible in clear weather for twentv-four miles at sea.
THE NORTH PIER
AND SOUTH
BREAKWATER
THE BLUFF, LIGHTHOUSE, ANU SIGNAL STATION
ENTRANCE TO HARBOUR
LIGHTHOUSE AND SIGNALLING STATION, DURBAN
The Signal Station is frilly equipped for day and night service, and all communications by signal from vessels lying at the outer anchorage are made through this agency, whence thev are transmitted to the Port Office Look-out Signal Station on the other side of the Harbour channel, and vice versa.
It is not until we reach the end of the Channel that a comprehensive view of Durban is secured. Then its size, compactness, and charming situation are beheld, while the near prospect of the Bluff and the Wentworth hills, green with virginal forests, the broad expanse of the beautiful Bay, and the refreshing life and movement on terra firma, produce an effect wholly surprising and agreeable.
Turning for a moment to the bluff side, a railway station is seen. This is "Wests," well known to pleasure seekers, who reach it either by crossing the Channel or by the Bluff trains from the Durban Central Station. Wharfage and other improvement works are noticed in active progress on this side, and denote the growing importance of the Harbour.
which lies tranquilly before us next invites our attention. This
THE BAY
magnificent sheet of water has an area of over six miles. Naturally it IS the favourite resort for yachting, boating, swimming, and fishing,
while its island also attracts many visitors. Running townwards from the end of the
wharves, on the north side of the Bay, is the viCTORi.\ esplanade, nearly a mile and a
quarter in length, and built at a cost of £77,000.
In a few minutes more we have gained the Quay, and alight at the gate of the G.vrden
Colony.
It may be said in passing, that whether the passenger land at the Public Wharf, or Paul's Wharf, or at the Landing Jetty — all comprised in the one word " Point," the projecting tongue of land on which the docks are built— he may be assured of the existence of equal if not superior facilities to those of any other port in South Africa.
Facing us, as we disembark at the Public Wharf, are a number of capacious storage sheds. At the back of these is a narrow road and a line of
THE DOCKS
warehouses and offices, in the centre of which stands the Custom House, distinguished by its old stone columns. Running parallel with this street is the main thoroughfare. Point Road, and here electric tram cars, cabs, and 'rickshas will be found serving all parts of the town and suburbs. But our first business is with the Customs' Officer, who being convinced"; that our paraphernalia is innocent of articles of a contraband or dutiable nature, expresses his satisfaction by a hieroglyphic chalk mark on the various packages. Then we en- trust them to the Delivery Agent, and afterwards, having an hour at our disposal, pass the time in rambling round the docks.
What noisy, animated scenes the principal wharves present ! — jangling of chains, barrows rumbling over the quay, syrens hooting, locomotives screaming as they push or pull their long-bodied wagons into position, the grinding of winches, the ho-hoying of sailors, and natives chanting some monotonous refrain. It is one ceaseless rattle and commotion.
Looking down the busy quajs, blocked with gangways, chutes, ropes, and all manner of merchandise, the countless spars and funnels of ships from all quarters of the globe dwindle away in the distance. Labourers pass to and fro the long lines of sheds ; pyramids of stores rise in the adjoining areas ; railway trucks are everywhere, some disgorging fuel for the numerous vessels, others being laden with weighty cargoes. It is a pretty sight,
PALL S WHARF
too, to watch the eloquent gestures of the arms of the cranes, as they swing from the hatchways and deposit their cumbrous bundles almost noiselessly upon the quay ; or the gigantic shearlegs, moving with perfect ease the heaviest shipments of machinery. Pai parenthcse it may be stated that it is no uncommon occurrence for a vessel to discharge 3.500 tons of cargo, take in 700 tons of Natal coal, together with other freight, and clear within six days. Nor must the streams of Kafirs coaling be missed. As they leave their semi-naked brethren shovelling in the trucks, and move up the gangways in slow and single trail, with baskets on their bended necks, they present a subject worthy of any canvas.
SAILING sHlHb, ULRBAN
Seeking the jetty, the scene is somewhat quieter. Passengers are waiting to be ferried across the channel, or for a tug to bear them to a vessel beyond the Bar. Dredgers are seen upon their beat ; lighters are going out with coal and freight for the roadstead ships, and a Sailer wants piloting to the mighty deep. Yachts and other craft skim swiftly over the dark iiolishcd waters ot the Harbour, and a boat is coming, with true naval swing, from a man of war. At every turn there is some excitement, some new happening. The docks are indeed intensely interesting.
CHAPTER II.
THE POINT AND ITS WORK.
THE Harbour is furnished with 2.856 lineal feet of concrete quay-wall, with a depth of 23 feet alongside at low water (ordinary Spring tides), and a further 1,000 feet, with 27 feet at low water, is well in hand. In addition there are 2,300 feet of timber wharfage, with a depth of from 14 to 20 feet at low water, as well as
1,050 feet on the opposite (Bluff) side, with 25 feet alongside. Ten years ago there were but 2,500 feet all told, with an average depth of only about 15 feet.
WHARFAGE AND DEPTH ALONGSIDE
The accommodation is divided amongst the several wharves known as " The Public (Main) Wharf," " Paul's Wharf," " Bell's Quay," and " Bluff Wharf." The first three flank the Northern side of the harbour, and stretch from near the root end of the North pier to a point 200 feet townwards of the Wharf shed, the Landing Stage or " Jetty," as it is called, being in the centre. The fourth wharf, as its name indicates, is on the Bluff side of the Channel.
GENERAL EQUIPMENT AND ACCOMMODATION
The following Hydraulic Cranes provide the lifting power at the wharves : —
4 thirty-cwt. -capacity. i6 three-ton
I ten-ton
I tifty-ton
I thirty-cwt. I ;
Travelhng Cranes.
Fixed
Shed
and Steaiu Shears of 20- ton capacity.
Each of the 30-cwt. and 60-cwt. cranes can be relied upon to discharge an average of about 300 tons per day.
The area of the wharf sheds is about 24,000 square yards, and 4,050 square yards are being added. This compares with about 10.000 square yards in 1891.
Railway lines are so laid on the wharves and outer yards as to meet every possible requirement.
Powerful Electric Arc Lamps illuminate the docks by night.
A Patent Slip, capable of raising vessels up to a thousand tons in weight and two hundred feet in length, is in use.
Eight Dredgers, besides Hoppers, are employed in deepening the Bar and the inner Harbour, and enlarging the navigable area. About three million tons of spoil are removed yearly by this means.
Four additional Sand-pump Dredgers are being built.
Tugs are plentiful, and in addition to those owned by the several shipping and landing Companies, the Government is possessed of three powerful boats of this class — the " Sir John," the " Richard King." and the " Harry Escombe."
Lighters are also numerous.
PORT OF NATAI..— TRADF. AND OTIIFR STATISTIC?.
|
Year 1891. |
Year 1896. |
*Year 191. •. |
|
Number of Ships entered at Port Natal . . . . . . 354 |
635 |
955 |
|
Tonnage of Vessels entered at Port Natal (Net Reg:) 191,870 |
663,938 |
1,929427 |
|
Tonnage of Cargo (Inwards) .. ,. .. .. 208,277 |
540.152 |
1.102,703 |
|
Value of Cargo (Inwards) .. .. .. ;i3.535.83l |
£S.4i7.»(>2 |
;£l3. 317,445 |
|
Value of Goods exported bv Sea ; — |
||
|
Colonial . . . . . . . . £970.^SO ' |
;f 849. 108 |
£984.584 |
|
Non-Colonial . . . . ^98,879 |
£226.787 |
£2,388,206 |
|
* Exclusive of Transports. | |
Note : — For Table showing the Shipping Tonnagf. Imports, Ex])orts, and Customs Revenue for eighteen years, see page 267.
MILITARY TRAFFIC, Yi»ars 1900/1001.
|
Twelve Months 1900 ,, igoi Two years' total |
Ulhcers and Men. |
Horses Cattle and Mules. (Head). |
Stores Coal (tons). (tons). |
Num- bered Trans- ports, only. |
||||
|
l.;uidcd. |
Re. skipped. |
l.dDdcd. |
B: - |
Re. ship- ped |
L.aodcd. |
ship^. '-*""«"• |
Re. shipped. |
|
|
80.944 24,922 |
40.541 35.654 |
40.274 74.400 |
3,492 073 .95 - |
— |
500,000 481,954 |
31.177 70.403 22 281 17.647 |
93.121 74.218 |
372 218 |
|
105,866 76.195 |
114.674 |
3.68.-' 973 — |
981,954 |
53,458 88,050 |
167.339 |
590 |
10
s. s.
LARGE VESSELS BERTHED 1000-1901.
Winnefredian.
Baverian.
Atlantian.
Custodian.
Armenian
Victorian.
Indian.
Mechanician.
10,405 10,376 9.355 9.214 8,825 8.825 9.124 9.044
gross tonnage
570 feet over all.
520
500 500
530
530
507
507
Note : The idea which prevailed previous to the war. that large vessels could not cross the Bar and discharge their cargoes at the wharves, has exploded.
The war and its many exigencies need not be minutely entered into here. It may, however, be casually remarked that the conflict has not been without its benefits and lessons in a commercial sense, for it has proved, more potently than any peaceable event could have done, the unique advantages of Natal in relation to the New Colonies, and the fact that she is capable of meeting any contingency. As with the railways, her maritime resources were taxed to the uttermost, but she neither wavered nor failed, and there can
be no misgivings that her achievements will have their meet reward in the certain advance- ment and prosperity of the country.
The chief Government Officials at the Point are : Mr. C. J .^Crofts, M.I.C.E., Harbour Engineer ; Mr. Mayston, Collector of Customs ; and Mr. Henry Ballard, C.M.G., Port Captain ; all most able men, assisted by competent staffs.
The plan of Durban at page 17 gives an excellent idea of the extent and capacity of the Harbour.
The phenomenal increase m commerce in the past, the large additional military traffic at the present, and the inevitable accession of trade in the future, have caused the consideration of verj' costly schemes for improving and augmenting the facilities and capabilities
DEVELOPMhNTS AT THE PORT
of the Port. Some of the works have already been completed, and the develo])ment of the Buff Side, a considerable project in itself, is being urgently pressed forward. This work involves the reclamation of no fewer than one hundred acres of land (at the lowest estimate worth £2.000 per acre) : the erection of one mile and a half of deep-water wharfage, and the complete equi])ment of the latter with the best appliances and machinery, not only for loading export coal in bulk, for which purpose the accommodation will princi- pally be used, but for dealing with any other shipments; the provision of all necessary railway sidings, and many other accessories too numerous to particularise. And the possibility of Port Natal becoming a naval coaling station has not been forgotten. S.-\LiSBi'RY IsL.AND, too, being in such close proximity, is a natural adjunct to the Bluff side works. It is proposed to raise the surface of the Island, to provide wharfage, slides, stacking grounds, slips, and all proper requisites, connect it with the Bluff Railway, and utilize it for dealing with the enormous import timber traffic. This will afford very valuable harbourage, and give immense relief to the Point side. Nor do the foregoing exhaust the schemes before the Government in the matter of extended accommodation and superior equipment. Amongst other projected works may be mentioned : — the jirovision of additional wharfage, with shedding and all neces- saries on the Point side ; a floating and a graving dock, the latter to be cajiableof taking the largest vessel afloat ; two slipways ; one loo-ton and other smaller cranes ; and, what is primarily imjiortant, the dredging of suitable channels to enable the whole of the wharves to be available for use at any state of the tide.
Surely, when all these improvements have been carried out. Port Natal will become one of the finest Harbours, if not the finest Harbour on the South African Coast. Since the foregoing was in type, the Government has had under consideration a revised scheme of harbour improvement. The outlines of the proposed new scheme are shown in the plan of Durban.
CHAPTER III. THE SEAPORT TOWN OF DURBAN.
A NOTE. — Appended to the undermentioned particulars of the sea-port town of Durban, is the description of a TOUR FROM THE POINT TO THE CENTRAL FiAILWAY STATION via POINT ROAD, WEST STREET, THE BAY EMBANKMENT, ALBERT PARK, AND THE BEREA. This tour is given more particularly for the information of those -whose sojourn in Durban is brief, but who, before proceeding further on their travels, desire to obtain a passing glimpse of the many attractive features of the town.
The JINRICKSHA might be employed as the means of locomotion for the first part of the excursion because of its novelty to the newcomer, and also that it enables a detour to be made at the Town Hall for the inspection of the Esplanade and the Albert Park. Omitting these two items, however, the ELECTRIC TRAM-CARS would be found to traverse the whole circuit with greater celerity and comfort, and at a much cheaper rate. The route of the tour as arranged can be traced on the street plan of Durban.
DURBAN.
THE
TOWN
Natal's largest and prettiest town embraces ithree parts — Addington ; the town proper ; and the Berea. The first is the centre of maritime interests, already described — the Point ; the second, the venue of commercial and general activity ; the third, the fashionable, residential hills which semi-gird and beautify the whole.
Durban was founded on the 23rd June, 1835, and named after the then Governor ot the Cape, Sir Benjamin D'Urban. At that time it was mere sand and bush, the haunt of elephants, and the abode of serpents : now there is not a fairer or more progressive town in all South Africa. The area of the Borough, including town lands, is ten square miles. The population (according to the census taken in July, 1902) stands at 60,446, composed of 28,049 Europeans, 12,460 Indians, 19,190 natives, and 747 half-castes. The European birth rate in 1902 was 27.7 per thousand, and the death rate 14.1 per thousand, but the latter is to some extent swollen by invalids from the fever-stricken regions on the East Coast, and other aliens.
The climate during the winter months is superb, and entices a goodly army of health and pleasure seekers from all parts. During the summer months, however, the heat is frequently oppressive.
13
Every accommodation is provided for visitors by the numerous hotels, boarding establish- ments, and restaurants in and around. The municipality is ably governed by a Mayor and eleven councillors. It is represented in the Legislative Assembly by four members.
In the year 1902, the rateable value of the Borough was :(|8,553,285, which compares
with £2, 272,010, in 1891. The general rate was 2d. and
MUNICIPAL FACTS
the water rate id. in the pound. The Municipal Revenue proper was £274. 379, E.xjicnditure, 1273,118, Assets, £3,305,375, Liabilities. £1,697,689. The area of the unalienated town lands is roundly 5,000 acres, standing at a valuation of about £1,500,000. In all. some 100 miles of streets, roads, and avenues have been laid out, nearly 60 miles of which have been macadamized. The streets are laid at right angles, and are well-formed, broad, and straight. They are maintained in unexceptionable condition, lighted by electricity, and provided with an excellent electric tram-car service (overhead wire system) which gives access to all parts of the town and the Berea, representing some 22 miles of line. There is also a plentiful supply of cabs and 'rickshas.
MARKET HALL, DLRBAN
The principal thoroughfares are adorned by many handsome blocks of buildings, which comply with the various necessities of this rising town. Notwithstanding the high price of business sites, quite a number of new erections of a bright and imposing character are going up. Corporation lands are also being continually thrown open for building and other purposes, on accessible terms to the thrifty man. The electric-lighting and tram installations are worked and maintained by the Municipality.
14
The water consumption is at present three million and a quarter gallons per diem. This supply is gained from two independent sources, and is practically inexhaustible. In addition to the natural sources of supply, however, a reservoir has been constructed, with a capacity of 500 million gallons of water, to meet any case of emergency. The clear water storage reservoirs, situated at a convenient distance from the town, will have a capacity of over 120 million gallons.
Durban's sewerage system is particularU' good.
The town is possessed of a very efficient Police Force and Fire Brigade.
WESLEYAN CHURCH AND STANDARD BANK, WEST STREET, DURBAN
PLACES OF WORSHIP, SCHOOLS,
NEWSPAPERS, INSTITUTIONS,
SOCIETIES, CLUBS
Churches and Chapels of every denomination are represented. There is a large
number of Schools of various grades, and the scholastic training in Durban is excellent. Two well-conducted Journals of long standing and extensive circulation, are issued daily, the " Natal Mercury " in the morning, and the " Natal Advertiser " in the afternoon.
There are the usual Benevolent and Political Institutions ; the Durban Home for the unemployed ; Orchestral, Musical. Theatrical, Literary, and other Associations.
A well-stocked Library and Reading Room, Museum, Art Gallery, and other avenues of intellectual advancement and pleasure are open to the public.
Several private Hospitals and Sanatoria are in existence, besides the Natal Government Hospital at Addington. Masonic, Oddfellows, and similar Lodges are established. There are numerous Social. Sporting, and Athletic Clubs.
Entertainments, histrionic, musical, and the like, for which the best talent is secured, are provided all the year round.
CRICKET ON 1111, t)\AL, Allil KT PARK
ENTERTAINMENTS AND RECREATIONS
The town is graced by four public parks, — the " Albert," '• Alexandra," " Mitchell," and " Berea," the first-named being the favourite. There is also a racecourse at the foot of the Berea. Yachting, boating, and fishing on the Bay are greatly courted pastimes, whilst tennis, football, cricket, cycling, swimming, polo, and golf have each a very considerable following. The Oval, in the Albert Park, is the arena where the principal athletic contests are decided.
i6
Of the Commercial, Industrial and Banking houses represented in Durban, the following mav be mentioned : The Eastern Telegraph and
COMMERCIAL,
INDUSTRIAL, BANKING
HOUSES, ETC., ETC.
Submarine Cable, Lloyd's Agent and Surveyor, Bureau \'eritas, Reuter's Telegraph Company, Ltd., Life and Insurance Companies, Ocean and Coast Lines of Steamers, Carting and Coal Companies, Landing and Shipping Agencies, Stock Exchange, Natal Land and Colonization Co., Sugar, Tea and Coffee Companies, the Standard Bank of South .A.frica Ltd., Natal Bank, Ltd., The Bank of Africa, Ltd., National Bank, and the .\frican Banking Corporation ; also numerous other mercantile, and general business establishments.
A comprehensive plan of the Borough, r.pon which is indicated the situation of the
various places of interest and attraction, churches, hotels,
PLAN OF DURBAN etc.as well as the tram routes, will be found facing page 17.
JINKICK-SHA i>'
A TOUR.
FROM THE POINT TO THE RAILWAY ST.VLION
VIA POINT ROAD, WEST STREET (EAST), B.W EMBANKMENT,
ALBERT PARK, AND THE BEREA.
Taking a farewell glance at the Point and its lively wharves, the immense Alexandra Square, the bonded stores, shipping offices, hotels, and the numerous other buildings which are^the boast of a good port, we pass an ornamental Drinking Fountain surmounted by a clock. This was erected in honour of Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese Admiral who discovered Natal on Christmas Day, 1497. At the back of this memorial are the Railway Station premises, and to the left of these, the square-towered Electric Lighting Works. Immediately afterwards we observe the quarters of the Water Police, while behind.Ion the right, is a long row of restaurants, shops, institutes for sailors and private
residences. This ])art of the Point Road throbs with excitement. — Electric trams speed by in both directions ; trolHes, packed with all descriptions of goods, driven bj' the light hand of the kafir, roll towards the town, and a procession of similar vehicles, relieved of their burdens, are returning for further loads. Pedestrians are hurrying to and from the docks ; cabs and other conveyances fly by — it is an interminable traffic. Now we turn to the maze of masts at Paul's Wharf ; now to the right again, noticing the many houses built upon the sand. .After the Coolie Barracks on the left are passed,
VASCO DA GAMA S MONUMENT, POINT
i8
there is little of new interest to engage our attention, save a Masonic Hall, severa churches, and a statuesque native policeman on the look-out for the delinquencies of hi§ brethren. This dark limb of the law does not carry a truncheon, but is allowed his own equally effective weapon called a knob-kerrie, which he disports with considerable satisfaction and can use, if need be, with telling accuracy, either in throwing or at close quarters.
THE
BACK BEACH,
DURBAN
For some distance, before reaching the junction with West Street, we are flanked by the Railway line leading to the Point, and are passed by a long train of coal bound for the docks. This piece of line, it might be mentioned, was the first railway constructed in Africa. We are now at the turning into West Street, the principal thoroughfare of the town. (The short sandy road on the right leads to the Sea Beach.) Passing onwards, over the railway crossing, and proceeding for some distance by shops, cafes, and hotels, we notice a large mercantile house on our right. Looking sharp!}' in the
"fl^^^^4r^^'
COURT HOUSE, WEST STREET, DURBAN
19
opposite direction, across another intersecting street, our gaze fastens ujion a block of buildings set back in a pleasant square. These are the Law Courts and Government Buildings. Adjoining this square are the Public Gardens. Immediately on the other side of the road, the capacious Volunteer Drill Hall, with its bold facade, arrests the eye. This is inset between the stone-built Regimental Offices and the solid-looking three-storeyed Police Station. It might be noted here that Durban possesses several Volunteer Corps, including mounted, infantry-, and naval contingents, also a battery of field artillery and a Cadet corps. The Durban Volunteers rendered valuable service during the War, and lost a number of Officers and men. including the gallant Commander of the Natal Mounted Rifles and the Volunteer Comiiosite Corps, the late I.t.-Col. R. \V. Evans, who was shot near Vryheid in February, 1902.
Resuming our observations : abutting on the Police Station is a vacant space, which is being reserved for further public or Go\ernment buildings. Still looking on the right-hand
TOW.N n.M.I. .^ND PUBLIC H..\THS, inKKAN
side of the road, we see the creeper-covered exterior of the Public Swimming Baths. These are the property of the Corporation, and are largely patronised. Now directing our attention to the left, we gather a prettier aspect of the Town Gardens, and note the short, but beautiful avenue of tropical foliage, the chastely-designed " Jubilee " Fountain in the middle view, and in the background — in Smith Street — the elegant pile of buildings erected by the Mutual Assurance Societ\', one of the most ornamental structures of its kind in Natal. Turning our eyes again to the right, the Public Library and Reading Room mani- fest themselves. Both are much appreciated. The present comi)lement of books in the Library exceeds 12,000, and the yearly issue approximates to some 40,000 volumes. Passing an off-street, at the bottom of which is situated the Anglican Church of St. Paul's, we come face to face with the Town Hall. This imposing Corinthian edifice was completed in 18S5 at a cost of over £50,000. The tower is 164 feet high, and contains a massive clock. The main Hall, which is used for all important concerts, dances, and other entertainments, is capacious and tastefully decorated. A very fine three-manual organ, upon which public recitals are frequently given, was erected by the Corporation in 1894. The Durban Public Museum and Art Gallery are each located in the ujjper portion of the building. They are open to visitors on certain week-days, and a very pleasant and
20
instructive hour may be spent therein. The Museum is devoted to the exhibition of rare and extensive collections of zoological, botanical, geological, ethnological, and mineralogical specimens, as well as insects and reptiles, coins and medals, relics of the different ages, savage implements of war, and many other interesting acquisitions, not only from South Africa, but other countries. The Art Gallery contains a number of valuable paintings, including canvases by such celebrated artists as Val Prinsep, Mac- Whirter, Herkomer, and the late T. Sydney Cooper. The Postal, Telegraph, and Cable
Departments occupy a portion of the Hall, while the various Corporation Offices and Chambers are, of course, included in the building. A few years back this ^Municipal edifice was sufficient for all purposes, but the town has progressed so rapidlv in recent years and shows such signs of greater and continuous development in the future, that the Corporation have under contemplation the erection of a still more commodious Hall, and the provision of new and more adequate accommodation for the Public Library and Reading Rooms. Museum and Art Gallery, resigning the present Town Hall for Government use. Looking over to the ornamental Gardens, we observe the beautifullj'-
^^^ '^'"'i
TOWN GARDENS AND QUEEN VICTORIA STATUE, DURBAN
enshrined statue of the late Queen Victoria. Thiis was erected in iSqy in com- memoration of her glorious reign. The statue, which is executed in white marble and of exquisite treatment and finish, is by the celebrated sculjitor Hamo Thorne\croft.
We have now arrived at the busy pivot of the town. In front, West Street still extends for about a mile until it merges into the Berea Main Road. The cross road is Gardiner Street, the right portion of which leads, to the Post Office, Central Railway Station, and Market Hall, and the left to the Bay Embankment, and the second jirincipal thoroughfare. Smith Street. This circus is a moving picture of electric trams, carriages, cabs and carts, rickshas and bicycles, newspaper boys and other boys, knots of mere gossipers, clumps of eager-ej-ed business men, smart and observant jwlicemen, and an incessant stream of ladies, tastefully apparelled. Turning from this entertaining sight, which gives the stamp and character of the town with much more force and directness than mere description, we proceed to the left and passing along Gardiner Street, flanked by a row of shops and offices on the one side, and the Public dardens on the other, quickly cut through Smith Street and catch a better glimpse of the highly-ornate Mutual Buildings. We are now almost within a stone's throw of the Bay, and are greeted by an acceptable breeze. The Esplanade being reached, we stay a moment to review the Point and the Bay from this quarter. The latter makes exceedingly pretty scenery at full tide, with its island and encasement of wooded hills and the life on its rippling waters. Looking towards the head of the Bay, we descry the suburbs of Congella, Umbilo, and South Coast Junction, set pleasantly upon the slopes of the hills.
Pursuing our journey along the Embankment in the latter direction, we appreciate this substantial addition to the attractiveness of Durban. It is formed of a wide asphalted promenade provided with seats, a narrow grass-plot bordered with jmlms and trees, and
SOUTH AFRICAN MUTUAL BUILDINGS, DURBAN
a broad carriage drive, overlooked by handsome villas and clubs. The embankment stretches in graceful curves for over 2,000 yards from end to end. Resting, as it does, on a once fetid swamp, the work is a monument, not only to the foresight and progres- siveness of the Corporation, but also to that " great statesman and famous citizen " the late Right Honourable Harry Escombe, a marble statue of whom has been erected in the Town Gardens, in recognition of his devoted and inestimable labours towards the advancement of the Port, and the general welfare of the Colony. Passing by the magni- ficent new buildings of the Durban Club, and the less pretentious but good-looking Royal Naval Yacht Club, situated opposite the jetty, we take the first turning to the right, and then almost at once seek the road that goes to the left. This is St. Andrew's Street, and we find ourselves in the midst of sedate and fashionable residences. Albert Park being reached, we enter by the first gateway, and traverse an avenue deliciously cool
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.Jbfei ' |
HM |
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THE ESPLANADE, GARDINER STREET TURNING
23
K.N. VACHI CJI.l H, DIRBAN
with its gnarled and curiouslj-twisted banyan trees, giant palms, and featherj' ferns. Soon we meet the tree-encircled carriage-way ; inside of this is the cycle track, while a
BaN ran free
.oYside Villa. 3"" Aiidrcw S^ Durban
large oval grass-plot lies in the centre, the whole being presided over by a capacious Grand Stand. Proceeding round the " Oval " — by which name the park popularly goes — we are given lovely vistas of the Bay, with yachts gliding gracefully with wind- puffed sails over the glistening waters. Seats are everywhere for the tired or contemplative, and the cycle track and recreation ground are at the service of whosoever may desire their use. This beautiful retreat is kept in very creditable order, and is quite a pleasurable feature of the town. Completing our run round the Oval, we leave by the main gates and pass into Park Street ahead, which leads direct to the Berca-end of West Street. On reaching this point, we see immediately opposite, the commodious Theatre Koj-al, with its long balcony promenade. Looking along the same side of the street, we observe a thick patch of foliage. This is the corner of the Cemetery. Further on is the brightest and busiest portion of West Street.
// convenience will not permit the undertaking of the remainder of the tour, the visitor can return to the Town Hall again by passing down West Street. By so doing he will gather an excellent idea of the stability of the town, as reflected by its handsome well-stocked shops, and its well-dressed and animated crowds, and he will have secured a running, yet pleasing glance at picturesque Durban, all in the space of an hour.
25
Discharging our 'ricksha-hauler, we hail a Berea Car and seat ourselves to enjoy the ascent. The first object of attraction is the castellated mill opjrosite the Berea Road Station. Running over the bridge, past a long fringe of bamboos, we observe the red- brick Government School, and immediately pass the junction of the Umbilo Road, which gives access to Congella. Umbilo, South Coast Junction, and Isipingo — a charming route for a separate tour. As we negotiate the abrupt slope of the Berea, we have ample time to note the comfortable residences which line the wide road and stretch upwards to the right and left as far as the eye can reach. Sheltered as they are by trees, and adorned by flowers and plants, it is suburbia indeed. In a little wliile we reach the corner of Botanic Gardens Road, which gives access not only to these gardens, but also to the Observatory and Laboratories. As these would repay a
OHSKKN AIDKV, IK KI'.AN
lengthened stay, thcv can be made the objectives of another visit, for which the under- mentioned particulars concerning them may be useful : —
The Nat.-vl Botanic G.\RDENS, which terminate the road of that name, are open from sunrise to sunset all the year round, but on Sundays the Conservatory is not accessible until 2 p.m. The Gardens have been in existence for many years, and receive the full support of the Government. An important addition is the Herbarium, which contains some 27,500 mounted specimens, and several thousands of unmounted ones for distribution and exchange with other similar institutions. This Herbarium was formed by the present excellently-qualified curator, Mr. J. Medley Wood, and a large building is being erected for its accommodation. One of the chief attractions of the Gardens is the Jubilee Con- servatory, or Palm House, as it is called. Therein will he found many kinds of ferns and palms, the most daintv and the most gigantic. Many bewitching spots will be discovered in rambling round the Gardens, and temj)ting seats will be esjjied under the shady
26
ON THE BERIiA, DURBAN
trees. Some of the flower-beds emit the most deHcious perfumes, while the oft-times quoted fallacy, that the land is without feathered song, will be refuted by the cheerful notes of birds in a perfect forest of trees, many of which, the visitor will observ-e, have been imported from foreign lands.
On leaving the Gardens, a steep road will be seen running to a higher level of the Berea. This road leads to the Government Obser\'atory and Laboratories. The Observatory, which is situated 260 feet above the sea, has been in operation since 1882. It is in 2 hours, 4 minutes 1.18 sec. East Longitude from Greenwich, and in 29° 50' 47" South Latitude. The time kept all over the Colony is Durban Observatory mean time, which is two hours in advance of Greenwich time. The Observatorv consists of a simple rect- angular brick building, carrying a dome 14 feet in diameter, sheltering a fine eight-inch equatorial refractor, and a small transit room containing a three-inch transit instrument. Each of these instruments is supported on substantial concrete piers, which raise them twelve feet above the surrounding surface. Attached is a room for the use of the Astron- omer, a temporary computing room, and a room for the clocks and electrical fittings. There isa first-class mean time clock by Victor Kullberg, and an e.xcellent sidereal clock by Dent, besides chronometers and other accessories. On the lawn to the North East is a magnetic room, carrying a small magnetic instrument for determining the variation of the compass, whilst a similar small detached room on the East contains the principal
27
meteorological instruments. The primary aims of the Observatory are to maintain the time of the Colony, and to investigate the climate of Natal, and the conditions which affect and regulate the changes of the climate, but at the same time it is desired that there should be utilised such oi)])ortunities which present themselves for contributing to the advancement of the science of Astronomy-, bj* making those special researches which cannot be undertaken at the larger Observatories, owing to the pressure of routine work. Some interesting particulars of the meteorological conditions obtaining in Natal can be [lerused at page 250. On the slope of the Berea, below the Observatory, are the Govern- ment Laboratories and Assay Furnaces, where are carried out all the chemical analyses and assays required for use in the various Government Departments, the most important being those connected with the Administration of Justice, the Department of Mines, and the examination of various jiowerful high explosives passing through the Customs. Certain analyses are also undertaken for the pul)lic at a reasonable charge.
Leaving the Botanic Gardens Road behind, we shortly afterwards gain Musgrave Road, named after one of the earlier Lieut. -Governors of the Colony, Mr. Anthony Mus- grave. Embranching from the tram line, which continues to the top of the Ridge anil serves the Toll Gate and Sydenham quarters, the car sweeps along this well-preserved, fashionable thoroughfare, and princely villas, set back some distance from the road, are ]mssed in quick succession. As we advance, long lines of bamboos make graceful salutations, and a lovel\- breeze comes up from the sea, while the fragrance and beauty
28
RACECOURSE, DCRHAN
29
of the richly-coloured tlowersaiul shrubs, and the ])rodiga]it\' of i)alms, add inexpressibly to the enjoyment of the scene. The road is endowed also with a superior style of churches, chapels, and schools, and an excellent hotel will be found some distance down, in the vicinity of which jwssil^ly the finest and most comi)iete bird's-eye view of Durban can be gleaned. A little way beyond this spot we notice Marriott Road which crosses at right angles. This locality is even more rural in character, and affords an exquisite view of the bushy northward coast, and the sweejiing wave-flecked ocean. Travelling on- wards, we pass the Maris Stella Convent, a girls' scholastic Institution of good renown, and afterwards, making a short decline, we are confronted by the leafy Mitchell Park, so designated in remembrance of one of Natal's later Governors, Sir Charles Mitchell, and near which a site has been selected for the marine residence of the present Governor, Sir Henry McCallum, R.E.. K.C.M.G. Turning shar|)ly to the right we enter Florida Road, and journey townwards once more. The descent is equally as agree- able as the ascent, for we have the Town, the Bay, and the Ocean at our feet. We whisk by roads on the left and avenues on the right, which serve the numerous villas and other residences. At the foot of the hill, we meet the tram-line from Stamford Hill, and proceed down the long First Avenue at the end of which, looking to the right, we catch a glimpse of the Racecourse and the Golf Links. In a few seconds more we emerge into the Umgeni Road, and notice the Railway sidings and the Corporation stone- crushing works. Across the railway line is seen " Lord's " Pavilion. Before the war Lord's was the most popular Athletic Ground.
We are now nearing the end of our tour. Railway Street i left, on the other side of the broad Prince Edward Street railway bridge, is the Old Cemetery. The sacred spot contains the dust of many brave men, both soldiers and pioneers, who perished in the early struggles with the Dutch, a full account of which is given in Mr. J. F. Ingram's " Story of a South African Seaport." Still flanking the railway, we shortly reach the handsome Central Sta- tion, where all is bustle and e.x- citement.
Here our tour is ended — truly one of the most interesting and beautiful that can be afforded by any town or city in tlie southern portion of the African Continent — and we alight to pursue our journey by train through the heart of Natal.
front of us. To the
NOTE. — In order to complete the circuit, the tram-car crosses over FINE STREET in the centre of this street and opposite the Railway Station, will be observed the new Market House, a commodious erection costing some £35,000- then passes along the northern part of Gardiner Street by the General Post Office, and, turning the corner, pauses at the steps of the Town Hall, prior to its return to the Point.
30
PART TWO.
THE MAIN LINE OF RAILWAY.
EIN ROUTE TO THE TRANSVAAL
THROUGH THE
PRINCIPAL TOWNS AND BATTLEFIELDS
OF
NATAL.
JOHANNESBURG MAIL, DURBAN STATION
PART TWO.
CHAPTER I. FROM DURBAN TO PIXETOWN.
THE iron horse snorts warningh', and we seek our comfortable compartments. In a moment the engine is threading its way through a tangle of lines to gain the proper track. Having got fairly under way, and beyond the precincts ot the station, we pass beneath two black iron bridges, and run for some little distance
through grassy embankments which shut off the view of the lively town. The obstruction, how- ever, is short-lived, and, after rattling under another
CENTRAL STATION, DURBAN.
Aliunde Dislcince
Fares; 1st Sinsle, 3d. 2nd ,, 2d.
16 feet /| miles
viaduct, noticing the Electric Power Station on the right, we find ourselves within a few seconds run of the West End station,
BEREA RO.AD. In the near distance we see an e.xpanding flat, behind are the
houses of a jiortion of the Durbanites, while above, con- tinuing as far as our eyes can scan, is the bushy amphi- theatre, the Berea, that charming residential adjunct of the town. The gables and roofs of comely villas can be espied peeping above the rich green foliage, while others are perched on a higher eminence and unenshrined. .Arriving at the station, we observe a number of Kafirs and Indians at the far end of the platform, pushing, and screaming, and tumbling into the carriages, over pots and tins, bundles and boots, calabashes, fruit-baskets, sugar-cane, and other
33
i)iki!an: west end and rerea
articles of their personal impedimenta. With a brief respite, the train moves on again past solid evidences of the town's progressiveness and activity — there a large, red-brick Government School, here a stone-faced grist mill, over the way, cold-storage premises, as well as various sheds, sho])s, brick-works, and extensive wagon-works, where long lines of railway trucks are seen in several stages of erection.
Now sweeping along the arm of the Bay, over a slightly elevated well-laid double track, we survey a scene particularly jMcturesque — the dark clear waters of the Bay shimmering in the sunlight ; the low Bluff ridge in the left background, upon whose sandy, semi, wooded sides a few pioneering houses have shot up ; tlie dense Berea bush, with its many mansions on the right ; and in between, a long, wide, stretch of land, bordered by ever-green grass and tropical shrubs. Beyond, turning again to the left, we see, on the edge of the Bay, several white-washed, shell-lime kilns, and the spars of small sailing craft. This is the favourite bay-beach pleasure ground of Congella.
CONGELLA is another suburb of Durban, and is rapidly obtaining popularity as a
desirable dwelling place, while on holidays, and at other
AllUuilc - - - 11 jcci , , . . . , , , , , ■
Distance- ■ - 25 miY, v timcs of relaxation, it IS a much frcquented rcsort for boatmg
and fishing. Should the Corporation extend the Esplanade thus far, the attractions of the place will be considerably
1st Si:
Fares:
. I '2. 0,1
THE BAY
34
enhanced. Historically, Congella is famed as the scene of the first battle with the Dutch for supremacy in Natal, for it was at this spot, on the 23rd May, 1842, that the British lost nearly half their men in a midnight attack upon the Boer Emigrants, resulting in Richard King's memorable ride to the Cape Colony for reinforcements. Every Colonial boy has ingrained in his heart the incident of this hero's terrible ride through tempest, jungle, and flood, spurred bravely on by the knowledge of his countrymen's perilous situation. Space permits only a passing reference to those eventful days, which are exhaustively treated in other works.
Leaving Congella behind, another pretty, semi-circular panorama of bay, bush, and landscape greets the eye. It is lost all too soon, for we have gained another station,
UMBILO, at which point the fruit-producing portion of the country may be said to
commence. Passing over a sturdy iron bridge, under which
Disiun'e - - ■ 4 miles the rivcr that gives its name to the station sleepily flows,
we find ourselves within a minute's run of the junction
Fares: rsl Single, II- Return, 116. 2nd ,. 8d.
"if
station for the South Coast Lines, and see upon the left a large flat, patched with the vegetable gardens and fruit plantations of the industrious Indian. Looking to the right, we discover our passage contested by a platform of hills, with houses dotted on the sloping tiers. This is the suburb of
35
|
Altiluile |
. |
. |
33 |
fed \ |
|
Distance |
. |
. |
4% mUes 1 |
|
|
F*Hes: |
||||
|
htS |
ngle |
13. Kctum |
nil. |
|
|
:mi |
•■ |
10,1. |
113. |
SOUTH COAST JUNCTION. Being also the point which receives the hnes from the
Bluff and the South Coast, it is endowed with the best train service on the railway. For this reason, as well as that of its healthy and convenient industrial situation, it is an eligible and growing place. There to the left stands the chief Sugar Refinery in Natal, and a little way round the corner is a Match Factory, as well as a Chemical Manure Mill, while the triangular slice of ground between the two lines is the railway construction-material depot. Two well-metalled roads pass the Junction, and are much favoured by cyclists, equestrians, and other highway travellers. The village does not yet boast of an Hotel, but there are two Chapels and a Literary Hall. Continuing our journey in a northerly direction, we observe that the right-hand line which has accompanied us from Durban, now runs into the single track. By this time we are labouring up " Jacob's ladder." the first of the difficult pieces of line with which the railwa}' abounds. While this more substantial ladder is unproductive of those white-winged visions of loveliness with which Jacob's dream is inseparably connected, and also wriggles about in a most astonishing manner, yet, looking back during the snake-like ascent, we are rewarded for the tedium by broad and delightful vistas of broken bush-and-fruit-clad hills, the Bay, Durban. Addington. the Bluff, and the outer anchorage, with the Town Hall tower reduced to a tolerable imitation of Cleopatra's needle rising like a sentinel over all. On the top of the ladder we come to
SEA-VIEW, which suburban territory is situated amidst firett}' undulations, possesses ~rrr^j ' rr, — , a stimulating air, and is becoming a very popular propertv.
Allttude - - - 175 fed \ , , ,, ,, ■ -' « ' , , , . "
Distance - - - fij mito As we travel onwards to liellair, we cannot heli) bemg
Fares* ' * *j
istsin.-it. in Keimn.2i imprcsscd by the evident diligence of the Indians, whose
pme plantations cover many acres, and present a much more preiiossessing appearance than either themselves or their habitations.
BELLA] R is another attractive suburb, claiming a population of over 400 souls. Dis- tributed on the wooded elevations are superior dwellings, set in trim and extensive grounds. The price of land in the vicinity is high, and what twenty years ago could have been secured for a ten-pound note, now realises £200 to £300 per acre. The leisure of the residents is employed in a diversity of ways. There are a Church and two Chapels, an Hotel, a troop of Mounted Volunteers, a Rifle Association,
|
Altitude - |
. |
. |
123 feel |
|
Dislaitct ■ |
Fares |
- |
7i miles |
|
1st Single |
119. |
Setum |
,1IS. |
|
2nd „ |
111. |
'• |
119. |
- «y-K.- .. : V "^7 '^
-5 r
FRUIT lARMs, .n:.u.vi;r.\
36
AMONG THE PINEAPPLES
Political and Sporting Clubs, Literary and Debating Societies, and a Concert and ^'oluntee^ Drill Hall. The scenerj^ around is undeniably beautiful, and, despite the sub-tropical foliage, reminds one exceedingly of Devon. The soil is rich and prolific, especially favourable to fruit culture, and exotics of all kinds also flourish. Before quitting the station we bestow a glance upon its handsome red-brick buildings. This taking and convenient style of station premises is gradually supplanting the ugly wood and iron structures of early days.
As we advance towards the next station, passing an equi-distant Stopping Place called Hillary's situated in the midst of fruit plantations, the country becomes more billowy, with hills tossed about in all manner of shapes. There is an unassuming charm about the district of
MALVERN, and the future should witness it rise to the front rank of suburban retire-
Altitudc . Distance -
Isl Single, 2:6. Return, 319 2nd „ IIS. ,. 216.
— - — ; ments. At present the greater proportion of the people lOimiiei residing in the locality are those employed in poultry-
farming, and floral, and sub-tropical fruit cultivations.
The neighbourhood is reputedly one of the best and most largely monopolised in these pursuits in Natal, especially the last-named. The rivers Umhlatuzan and Umbilo are within walking distance of the station, and upon their inviting banks many a pleasant picnic occurs. Botanical and kindred students will also find much material for their fascinating researches in the district. There are a good hotel and several boarding houses at Malvern. Continuing the upward trend of our journev, we revel on the one hand in an exquisite view of both sea and' landscape, and on the other, in broad hills and kloofs and vales, until we sight
37
NORTHDEXE, a quiet, fruit-producing place, prettily environed.
riNETUW X BRliXiK is the next station, where a stay ot a few minutes is made for water. Immediately on the right of the line, and scarped
|
Allltnilt |
TX, feel |
|
|
Distanct |
Fares |
13 miles |
|
1st Si |
•S'«, 313. |
Return, 4111. |
|
l»d |
.. 3l3. |
KAMK GIRLS GKTTING WATER
Traf>pists, Mariannhill
! Altitude - - . OiSfeel
Distance - . . ;j} milci
1st Single. 41- Ketum.SI-
2nd „ 218. „ 41-
by the main road, is historic Cowie's Hill— a well-known landmark. Looking back from the train, we discern the " Sarnia " brick, tile, i^ii^e, and jiottery works, one of the largest industries of its kind in South Africa. There is also a good stone quarry in working, but this is out of sight. Turning our gaze to the
3«
AT THE waterworks: PINETOWN RESERVOIRS
39
opposite side of the line, we view the site of the famous Princess Christian MiUtary Hospital, muiiiticently provided, erected, and equipped by Mr. Alfred Moseley, C.M.G., of London, upon land generously lent by Mr. Frank Stevens, C.M.(i. during the long period of its rc(iuirLMnent. It is intended that a commodious hotel and sanatorium
UMBILO FALLS (PINETOWN' WATERWORKS
shall perpetuate its memory, and Pinetown Bridge will some day blossom as an invigor ating holiday resort. It is already renowned as the centre for that favourite picnicking spot " The Waterworks " — two cajiacious reservoirs sustained by the Umbi o River for the supply of Durban. These are situated some two miles away in a lovely valley, the more direct route to which is vid the brick fields, with the ever-ready permission of Mr. Stevens. The place is an exquisite surprise, and those who seek its sylvan shades and picturesqueness, will be delighted. It is not necessarj' to stay the whole time in the valley with its river, lakelets, and waterfalls; one may roam for many a mile high up on hilly, well-kept roads, and gaze from end to end over the immeasurable crescent of the silent, restful sea, and back again over the sea-port town, and the topsy- tur\'y, prettily-decorated landscape, to the reservoirs that glitter like jewels in their sombre, timbered mounts.
Setting of? at a sharp, ascending pace over a river bridge, past thick, arching lines of elegant bamboos, tall graceful palms, and tangles "of the wild banana, we quickly reach the one-time Aldershot of Natal,
40
PINETOWN. This is really the boundary of the suburban district proper, and enjoys a most equable climate. On this account Pinetown is
AltilutU - - - tJZSfcel /* i , t . i ■
Distance - - - f/i miles fairly Well peopled. It has a population of over 300, two 1 si Single, 4 13. keturn.eis. i Churches, a Government School, Public Library and Hall,
— " — — '- — — various Societies and Clubs, several boarding-houses, and
a very comfortable hotel, the " Imperial," where conveyances can be hired for the Waterworks, and other attractions in the vicinity. The country around is highly suitable for the cultivation of marketable fruits. Two jam factories have also been started within recent years, and the production of maize and roots is undertaken. Situated a few miles to the East is the farming settlement of New German}'.
During the few minutes' detention at this station, we remark, by his very singularity of garb— a coarse gown, broad black scapular, and leathern girdle — the thoughtful figure of a monk. There, over the barren hills to the left, will be found a road which leads to Mari.\nnhill, the monastery of the Trappists, and one of the greatest missionary institu- tions in South Africa for the education and the development of the industrial sinews of the native. The establishment is not old — barely twenty years — but from its inception it has flourished commendably, and from this, the parent house, have sprung twenty-five different stations throughout the southern portion of the continent. At Mariannhill alone there are 320 monks and 275 sisters. The number of coloured pupils maintained, educated, and instructed, is 220 boys, and 180 girls, while in addition, 21 European orphan boys find a friendly asylum.
The Pinetown monastical estate embraces some 12,000 acres, and the total African possessions of the Order number 100,000 acres. The Monastery, to a certain extent, is self-supporting, chiefly from the products of its land and industries. Most of the monks and nuns are of German extraction, and are wedded to silence, onlv those who are engaged in various works being permitted to speak, and then only when absolutely necessary. The present Abbot is the Right Reverend Father Gerard, and the institution is under Catholic dominion. Among the monks are many of great learning, and professed in arts, sciences, and industries. In the sisterhood, too, there are those of superior accom- plishments. The monastic day commences at two o'clock in the morning, and closes at seven in the evening. The Fathers are most hospitable, and a visit to the settlement would prove one of much profit and pleasure. Thousands of people from all parts of the world have journeyed hither, and many number amongst their valued mementoes some small article manufactured at Mariannhill.
MARIANNHII.I. MONASTERY
Trappists
41
To those who may. or may not have an opportunity of visiting the Monastery, the following description may be of interest :
•" SUB SILENTIO."
Seeking the Huctuating course of the rutted road that branches to the left from the main highway, and passing, perhaps, a few sohtary Kafirs, who will step aside and bare their heads in salutation, you will reach, after travelling some four or live miles, a sheltered hollow, in which you will see a number of long, narrow buildings arranged in the form of a compact little town, and dominated by a tower. Take the pathway descending to the right, and vou will come to the vine-mantled residence of the Porter. Follow the lead of this kind-faced amiable monk (who is deputed to dispense the goodly ho.s- pitality and favours of the I'athers), and you will be conducted through the humble workshops of the skilful tonsured artiticers and their sable apprentices, all solemnly intent upon their business. .\ wonderful peace pervades each shop and room, and. at the sight of the little crucifix hanging on the wall, you will instinctively uncover, and, perhaps, lingering a little while to watch the silent earnestness of the toilers, pass quietly away. It mav be sentiment, but there is a strange difference between these industrial hives and those of the noisy world. The works and buildings of the tanners, saddlers and shoemakers ; blacksmiths, tinsmiths and wagon-builders ; bakers, tailors, watch-makers, carpenters, joiners, school-masters, and photographers, you will notice are in the main portion of the settlement, and the premises of the millers, printers, book-binders, lithographers and typefounders are gathered some distance away beyond the Convent. .Vs you pass thither you will observe some of the brethren working among the vegetable gardens, vineries, and fruit plantations, while others will be descried toiling in the distant fields. A little further on. you will observe the monastic cemetery, where, under a tall and exuberant tree, repose the remains of the former .\bbot, surrounded by the graves of the sisters and monks whose earthly missions are no more, pathetically marked by wooden crosses, hung with wreaths of leaves. Passing onward you will reach the Convent, and as you proceed through the quiet, immaculately clean, well-ordered apartments, and watch the nimble, delicate fingers of the embroiderers and basket-makers, the busy hands working in the kitchen, wash-house and laundry, and the sisters teaching in the various schools, again and again you will be filled with admiration. Native girls are trained by the nuns in all the numerous feminine arts and services, and prove most apt and obedient pupils. Xor must you omit the visitation of the churches. Throughout each hour of the day, and in the still darkness of the unawakened morn, the gentle sisters and the bearded monks may be seen passing to their holy avocations, or noiselessly — save for the sound of their sandalled feet — returning with bended heads to the unfinished labours of their hands. If convenience permit, the dormitories and refectory should also be visited.
Probably, at the end of your tour, the sun will have dropped behind the western hills, which loom like the upturned keels of great leviathans, and you will be making ready to hurry on the lonely road into the larger world. When you come to the outskirts of this holy town, turn and listen for a moment, and you may hear, quivering upon the cool and sympathetic air^Uhe sound of the deep-toned bell summoning the monks to their evening prayers.
'The motto «/ the Order.
CHAPTER II.
FROM PLXETOWX TO IXCHAXGA.
SHORTLY after quitting Pinetown, we commence the ascent of one of the longest and most exhausting " pulls " on the line — Field's Hill — and as we rise higher and higher to the ne.xt terrace, we look down upon long, folding hills, emerald excres- cences, narrow, foliaged valleys, an expanding bush-strewn plain, and at the back of all the delicate blue of the ambient sea. The prospect is delightful, and refreshing breezes blow about our ears. Passing Palmiet Staff Station, just beyond which on the left we sight some beautiful cascades, we rise towards Wyebank, another similar station, and an impressive sight bursts into view when the massive hill immediately on the right is overtaken— a vast rupture of the earth, blackened with forests, and long, level-topped mountains soaring mournfully over it. After twisting to a higher altitude,
42
PALMIET FALLS, NEAR PINETOWN
43
THK COF.GE, KKANTi! KLOOl
AUitiuic Dislanie
Fares:
Isl Single, 519. Return, Sl.1.
2nd „ 3IW. ,. 5,9.
the scene resolves itself into a huge chasm, which, seen in the half-light or on a murky day, looks very weird. This is the princijnil of the several noted krantz-kloofs, from which the next station derives its name, and as we speed thither, sweeping by the Special Stopping Place of Field's Hii.i., we get a view of the other eastern kloof.
KK.WTZ KLOOF is bleak and almost desolate, yet it is in the heart of good farming
land. The broad, undulating acres, stretching in idleness hi miics I north, south, east, and west, could be turned to excellent account in roots, cereals, and forage, and dairying could be profitably followed. The climate is superb and would alone induce health and pleasure seekers. it is said that upon a clear day, with the aid of a telescope, ships can be discerned passing along the coast, and even some of the rivers embouging in the sea. while a splendid view of the contour and interesting features of the lower terrace can be obtained from the several elevations round. But the attraction of the kloofs is supreme, and they must be visited before an adequate conception of their grandeur can be formed.
Every visitor to Natal should go to Krantz Kloof. Davs may be spent in thoroughly exploring the district, but it would be desirable to secure a guide from Pinctown, which place indeed might be made the headquarters.
To those who are accustomed to it, camping-out would prove enjoyable. The reader should be informed, however, that, until such time as the large tract of country is indued with greater life and progress, it will be necessary to obtain permission to shoot or fish from either the Natal Land and Colonization Company, Mr. Field, or Mrs. Gillitt,
44
|
Allitude ■ |
1,969 |
feci |
|
|
Distance |
25J indci |
||
|
Fares: |
|||
|
fst Single |
ft/,;. |
Helm |
", 9i:i. |
|
2nd „ |
412. |
•' |
n J. |
Altitude - J.-'-'J Mi
Distance ■ - 27_l miles
Fares ;
1st Single, 71- Return. lOIC.
2nd ,. 'tis. „ 71-
who are the owners of practically the whole of the land around. From Krantz Kloof to GILLITT'S (the S.A. Constabulary Remount Depot) is a short nm through a pastoral
country relieved by a few plantations of black wattle and lanky eucalyptus. Passing this station and another stopping- place whicli bears the legend " Emberton," we get a glimpse of the estate-owner's house, pleasantly set on a wooded slope (far behind our trail we may still take occasional peeps at the ocean) and ascend towards
HILL CREST. A few years ago this place was almost unknown. Now it is a good- sized suburban settlement, and the salubriousness of its climate is drawing further residents. The scene des- cribed below is within walking distance, and there are also some fine waterfalls five miles away. The Inanda Hills and the sea are plainly visible in clear weather. Passing sinuously onwards we observe the acute groovings in advance, and the track vanishing sharply round the projecting hills, and wonder how long the winding and climbing will continue, and what the ascent betokens. We are held but briefly in suspense, for, cutting through a cleft in the rocks, there, involuntarily turning our gaze towards it, lies an enchanting sight. Imagine a wind-tormented sea, the nearer waters rocking in countless pyramids of fury, far off great billows tossing mountains high. Next conceive a Power having commanded the pyramids and the billows to remain im- movable, and the greenest grass to clothe them, and you will gather something of the magnificent spectacle. As we proceed, this wonderful scene broadens and deepens until
ox THE N.G.R., NEAR BOTHA S HILL
45
GROl'P Ol- NATIVES
BOTHA'S HILL is reached, where a number of natives detrain. They are going home.
Of all the races on the earth it is questionable whether there is one more irresistibly allured to his " family hearth than the Kafir. Within easy distance of this station several tribes have their villages, and a visit to the kraals accomjianied by a good guide and a kodak would afford
considerable pleasure to anyone interested in the customs and characteristics of the
native.
Journeying now towards Inchanga, which may be styled the half-way house to the Capital, W'e observe several huts sprouting on the sides and summits of the humji- backed hills, looking strangely like inverted pudding-basins, and round about we mark the small mealie plots of the none too provident native. As we proceed, the western view gives us a wild and broken country, with great balls of good workable granite clinging like fungi to the mountain sides, and in between the gaps we get a final glimpse of the filmy sea. The momentum of the train plainly indicates that we are descending a heavy grade, and we soon dart into a tunnel — i8o feet in length, and a splendid bit of work — then we turn our eyes eastwards, take a long last look at the " beautiful valley of a thousand hills," and in a little while jiass through
DRUMMOND (Traffic Hotel), renowned for its bracing climate and hilly j)icturesque-
ness. There is little life in these rocky regions — perhaps
Diitance - - - 3ii milts ' a kafir womau with a curious lance-bucket kind of coiffure, isi Single, gt-'^Reiurn.isie. and a baby tied in a bundle at her back, or a young girl
^!1!!. •: ^ - — attired in an exceedingly light and inexpensive costume,
balancing on her head, as she swings along, a calabash of utywala (a large onion- shaped vessel of native beer). In a few miiuites we are at
46
INCHANGA, where a wait of twenty minutes for refreshments is announced. A large
and elaborately-appointed hotel has recently been erected, and is sure to be well patronised by persons desirous of deriving health and pleasure from this invigorating neighbourhood.
|
Altitude |
. |
. |
2M4 feel I |
|
Distance |
_ |
. |
39 miles |
|
Fares; |
|||
|
lit Single |
919. |
Return |
1418. |
|
2nd „ |
bib. |
919. |
BY RAIL .\ND RO.\D, NEAR BOTHA S HILL
CHAPTER III.
Altitude - - - 2.123 feet
Distance - - - -"i mtles
I'ARES :
/5/ Single, 1016. Return. 15 9. 2nd „ 71- „ 1016.
FROM IN'CHAXGA TO PIETERMARITZBURG.
RESUMING our travels, we observe a decided difference in the configuration of the countr}'. What were angrv-looking mountains a I Altitude . - - 2.I2J teet \yj,j]g ^gg^ jg now uudulatiug pasturagc, cultivated
land, and a freshening air, in the middle of which is the small station of HARRISON, dividing the long section to CATO RIDGE. Arriving at this centre we see a number of storage sidings running
in all directions, and connecting in an evidently con- venient manner with the main line. This district does not, as the stranger might suppose, contain a flourishing township as yet, but it is an excellent one for stock, dairy and poultry farming, and for the cultivation of corn, potatoes, and mealies. The farming community has increased considerably during recent years, and, as there is good land still available, it will no doubt attract further cultivators. An hotel is con- templated, as well as a sanatorium, but at present, visitors find accommodation at several of the neighbouring farms. The Umgeni, Umlaas, and Umsindusi Rivers — in which devotees of the rod will find good sport — are only a few miles away, and some exceedingly pretty falls, turned like a horse-shoe, are to be found in the Umlaas and well deserve a visit. A striking range of flat-topped and conical mountains is seen some ten
|
Altitude - Distance - 1st Single 2nd „ |
2,470 feet 44^ miles Fares- 1113. Return, Will. 7l6. „ 1113. |
47
««^i
CATO KIDCiK STATION
miles distant, and here the first glimjjse is caught of the noted Table Mountain dominating its companions. To those whose botanical, geological, or other scientific studies lead them far afield and into primeval places, these mountains, which are really a continuation of those at Krantz Kloof, can be commended.
The district between Cato Ridge and Thornville Junction may be at once described as one of the oldest, largest, and most prosperous agricultural divisions in the Colony. Dairy-farming is also successfully pursued, though the locality is not particularly adapted to stock-breeding. The principal articles of produce are oats, forage, mealies, potatoes, and beans. Maritzburg, being the nearest town, is a large market, but the cultivations also find ready buyers in other centres of Natal and in the Transvaal. Land is valuable and in great demand.
Returning, however, to Cato Ridge. Leaving this station in the rear, we still enjoy, looking to the east, the magnificent cx]:)anse of bold rugged country. Soon we sight CAMPERDOWN, which, being within easy reach of both Pietermaritzburg and Durban,
is a spot freely recommended to convalescents and those requiring change and rest at a bracing elevation. It is said to be most agreeable for those suffering from chest complaints. There is a well-appointed brick hotel close to the station and in the vicinity a number of houses open to paying guests. Photographers and sportsmen will be accorded fair "bags" in their respective operations, and many other ways will be found for ])leasantly whiling away the time. Eight miles away, in a pretty situation, will be found the largest body of fresh water in Natal, — the new emergency dam constructed for the Durban Corporation. It is two miles long, attains a width of over 800 yards, and has a capacity of five hundred million gallons of water.';.-v It should prove of considerable attraction to Campcrdown visitors. Passing on, we take in our way the little station of
- --,— UMLAAS ROAD, from which coign of vantage we are
AUxUui, . 2,606 feci „ , , , , , ^ ■ • „
Disiamc ■ - 51 miles attorded a grand i)rospect of the mountam range m the
l-AKts: J- i
Isl Singlt, 1219. Return, 1912. UlStaUCe.
2nd „ Sfi. „ 12 0.
Allilude . - - 2,497 Jal \
Distance .--.<« miles \
Fakes;
tsl Single, 121- Return, 181-
2nd „ SI- .. 121-
|
Altitude - |
-.M>j |
!tCt |
|
|
Distance - |
Fares |
■ Hi m |
ilcs |
|
1st Single |
/J/9. |
Return. 2018. |
|
|
2nd „ |
912. |
„ 1319. |
MANDERSTOX, our ne.xt station, has no special charms and we head for
48
|
Altitude - |
. |
3.006 feel |
|
Distance - |
Fares: |
59a miles |
|
)st Single |
151- Return |
. 2216. |
|
2nd ., |
rof. |
151- |
THORNVILLE JUNCTION. This place is but scantily hirnished with buildings—
an hotel, a bacon and ham factory, and a (ew houses and farms compose its structural wealth. It is, however, a railway centre of no mean activity and importance, being the junction for the Richmond Branch. A convenient morning and afternoon service of trains is arranged between Richmond and Maritzburg. making connection at the latter station with the trains from the uplands, and at the junction with those from the coast. For a description of the Richmond district and its facilities, see pages 201-205. After Thornville Junction the next main line station is
FOX HILL. This surburban territory is within seven miles of Pietermaritzburg,
and enjoys a very healthy situation. In the east distance our rocky guide. Table Mountain, again appears, and as we pace down the hill we perceive an unequal country to the right, enlivened with mushroom-like bushes of the mimosa class. Now, setting our eyes on the north-east, we catch the first faint glimpse of the Capital, becomingly dressed in foliage and nestling under the protecting wing of the massive Zwaartkop hills. With occasional interruptions we keep the city in sight, and, after overtaking Mount Rule, an intermediate staff station, the scene becomes more animated and picturesque, and our attention is withdrawn from the dimpled cheeks of the rounded hills to the bordering view of pretty villas and straggling people on the abutting road which stretches citywards, while from this nearer quarter we secure a larger panorama of the Capital. Fort Napier is detected on the left elevation, embracing quite a little town in itself, and down below is the City proper.
Altitude - - 2.810 feet
Distance - - 63'-{ miles
Fares :
Ht Single, 161- Return, 211-
2nU „ WIS „ 76/-
..,-i
RIVER UMSINDUSI
+9
SOUKCE Ol nil. LMSINUISI
|
A llitmle |
. |
2.132 |
full |
||
|
Distance |
. |
. |
fi«J uiilti 1 |
||
|
Fakes: |
|||||
|
hi Sin |
'It |
171- |
Return |
, 2s:s. |
|
|
2nd , |
nil. |
■■ |
17!- |
UMSINDUSI Station, the advance patrol of the City, is quickly gained, and we notice
is heavily veiled by trees. Here our tickets are e.xamined. This operation being accomplished, we proceed again, and running over a river bearing the same name as the station — upon whose banks the City is built — we travel smartly down a decline, whisking by charming surburban residences. A little further on we pass the southern outposts of the town, and mark, standing in an extensive park- land upon our right, a handsome red-brick edifice. This is one of the first colleges in Xatal. Now. once more we enter the halls of civilization, as it were, for our course is bounded by well-built, clean-looking houses ; and, after vigorously mounting another grade, we slacken speed, and, passing cautiously by se%-eral very long, gate- protected streets, noticing on the right hand the glass-fringed walls of the gaol, and on the left hand the garrison church, we steam into the second largest station on the line and alight at the historic Capital of the Colony — Pietermaritzburg.
A rajiid sketch here of our surroundings will be useful. Facing us is the main exit
|
E^^^^^^^^^^ |
||
|
" ■ ^^^i^^i'^^y^^--*''^-"^-''^^ ' 'afeiisii |
||
|
9 ■^'^•.'''-"/ -x^ ■"'^^^^^^^r |
ft*^*^-^^*^!* 'f. |
' -^ r^f ■ - -l^^^^BfTir^TWIM |
|
_ ^ ' 5 |
'^^i^^iPtt |
PIETERMARITZHLRG FROM TOWN HILL
leading through a wide booking-hall, in which are the Booking and Telegraph Offices and Cloakroom. To our right are the Refreshment and Dining Rooms, and a "bay" from which the Richmond branch trains depart. To our left are the bookstall, the various Station Officials' and Parcels Offices, \\'aiting Rooms, and the " bay " set aside for the Gre\'to\vn branch trains.
R.^ILWAY STATION, PIF.TERMARIT7BURG
CHAPTER IV.
THE CITY OF PIETERMARITZBURG.
THE Capital of the Colony was laid out in the year 1839 ^y the Dutch voortrek- kers from the Cape, and was named from two of their leaders, Pieter Retief and Gert Maritz. The sturdy pioneers had suffered much since they had brought their wagons down the passes of the Berg into " the meadow of Natal." Seventy of
their number, headed by . Pieter Retief, had been treacher-
FOUNDATION
ously murdered at Umgungunhlovu, on the WTiite Umfolosi, the Great Kraal of Dingaan, the Zulu King, to whom they had gone to sue for territorial rights. Following that massacre, Dineaan's impis attacked in the night the Dutch camps scattered along the Tugela and Bushman Rivers and within a week murdered about 600 men, women, and children. Warfare continued until Andries Pretorius defeated Dingaan at the Blood River on the i6th December. 1838 — " Dingaan's Day " — and so secured peace for his countrymen.
From "The Story of a South African City" (J. F. Ingram), — which volume it might be mentioned is a complete biography of the Capital— we gather that after the events indicated above, the Settlement of Maritzburg consisted of six small hovels and many wagons and tents; that in the beginning of 1839 3- Volksraad, or Council of the people, was elected, and that on the 15th of Februar\' of the same year, the town was officially named Pietermaritzburg. The natives name it "Umgungunhlovu" from the ancient seat of government of the Zulus on the White Umfolosi River. Such then, was the founding of the Capital of Natal.
MARITZBURG. as it is usually called, enjoys an altitude of 2.21S feet above the sea
level. It is 70J miles by rail from Durban, and 55 by road. It lies in a leafy hollow, and is commanded by hills on every side. Two small but pretty rivers, the Urnsindusi, and Dorp Spruit, embrace the town, and are strongly bridged.
|
SITUATION |
|
|
A llitude Distittite |
- 2.2IS feci ■ 70-; nntcs |
|
hi Sin 2nd |
Fares : „■/£, I7l9. Rtlurn, 2S:K. . iriO. .. 1719 |
The formation is purely Dutch — rectangular, with right-angled streets running from end to end, and amounting in all to nearly 30 miles.
FORMATION,
EXTENT, POPULATION
The borough comprises about 45 square miles, including town lands.
The estimated population is 20,000 Europeans, 8,500 Natives, and 6,500 Indians, or a total of 35,000. The Municipality is divided into eight wards, and its affairs are well administered by a Mayor and fifteen Councillors. Its representation in the
MATTERS MUNICIPAL
Legislative Assembly is three members. The rateable amount
of the Borough properties in the year 1902, was £3,398,605, as
compared with £1,325,250 in 1891. The general rate was zkd.,
and the water rate Jd. in the pound. The Municipal Revenue was £105,951, E.xpenditure,
£166,918, Assets, £1,598,280, and Liabilities £721,800. The town lands comprise some
15,400 acres, valued at £462,000.
The main thoroughfares are well-made and lighted by electricity.
52
PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS
The houses, especially those erected during the last few \ears, are substantia ly built, mostly of red brick, commodious, and conveniently arranged. In the suburbs there are many very handsome villa residences.
The water is good, and the supply, which had fallen short of the greatly increased ■demand, has now been met from additional sources at considerable cost.
The sanitar}' arrangements are fairly efficient.
The European birth rate is 26'0, and the death rate I3'8 per thousand.
There is a well-disciplined European and Coloured Town Police Force ; also a Volunteer Fire Brigade, under a permanent Fire Master, fully equipped with steam engine, manuals, «sc%pe, and all necessar\' modern appliances.
There are a large number of public buildings, some of which are of pretentious proportions and excellent design, notably the New Town Hall, which was opiened by H.R.H. The Duke of Cornwall and York, in August. 1891 (one of the finest edifices in South Africa, and possessing the fourth largest organ in the world), the
Colonial Offices, Houses of Parliament, Govern- ment House, Maritz- burg College, Natal Police Barracks, Lunatic .A.svlum, and Central Station. There are also many othei' structures, capacious and attrac- tive, chief amongst which are the Post Office and Supreme Court, Victoria Club, "Natal Witness" Office, Police Station, Market Hall, Library, and Reading Room, Masonic Hall. Theatre, and several Banks.
Building operations are e\'erywhere appa- rent, and in a little while new Postal and Telegraph Offices, new premises for the Engi- neer of Railways' De- jiartment, and possibly a Drill Hall and a .Museum will^be erected. The active prosecution of structural works.
CATHEDR.VL BELLS
53
not onl\- in the city but also in the suhurl.s. augurs well tor the 1 right future of the Capital.
One of the primal attractions of the district is the salubrious climate, which is said to be especially favourable to incipient bronchial ailments.
GENERAL ATTRACTIONS
Of the inner places of resort, the following are the principal : The .\lexandra P.ark, a beautiful well-timbered ground comprising some i8o acres, situated on the right bank of the Umsindusi River, to which access can be gained from several directions. It possesses a large Oval, and cycling track; pavilion and band-stand; golf, tennis, football, and cricket grounds ; welcome avenues and arbours, and a fine conservator\-.
54
The Botanical Gardens, which he on the west side of the City, are a good example of their kind. They afford lovely walks and are largely visited. The charmingly-situated Waterworks are also in the vicinity.
The outer spots of enjoyment are Table Mountain, the most fascinating rendezvous for picnickers, photographers, and scientists ;
The Town Bush and Chase Valleys, where nature has been most bountiful with her waterfalls and sweet woodland gifts ; and
55
o
i-
3
The various Holiday Centres, each within easy reach of the city, namely, Caniperdown, Edendale, Zwaartkop, Sweetwaters, Hilton Road, Howick, and Albert. These are described in their appropriate places.
The following handsome monuments, the handi- work of eminent sculp)tors, adorn the City : A white marble statue of the late Queen Victoria, a statue of Sir Theophilus Shepstone, two
STATUARY, Etc.
striking monuments, one commemorating the brave who fell in the Zulu war of 1879, ^""^ *h^ other, a column, erected in remembrance of the volunteers who died in suppressing the Langalibalele Kafir Rebellion in 1873. The lobby of the House of .\ssembly ontains the bust of the late Sir Henry Binns. as well as two tablets, one erected to the memory of the latter and the other to that of the late Right Honourable Harry Escombe. also at one time Premier of the Colony.
In the vestibule of the new Town Hall is a large choicely-designed tablet, unveiled hy H.R.H. the Duchess of Cornwall and York, in remembrance of the Natal Volunteers who lost their lives in the recent Boer War ; and, fittingly enough, opposite this tablet has been placed the bust of that able and prescient statesman, the late Sir Edward Bartle Frere.
In the various churches will be seen many tablets in honour of those beloved and worthy pioneers and citizens who have joined the great majority. These are many and sundry, and applied to the advancement of com- merce, agriculture, horti- culture learning, music, law, botany, photo-
SOCIETIES,
INSTITUTIONS,
CLUBS
graphy, moral and physical development, angling, shooting, sociability, thrift, etc. There are also a number of benevolent institutions, while Grey's Hospital and the Sanatorium] do splendid work. The Natal Society is the oldest of all local Insti- tutions, and counts amongst its members the Colony's most learned, eminent, and influential men. It maintains a commodious building, which includes Museum, Subscription Library, and free Reading Room. The circulation of books is about 40,000, and magazines 15,000 per annum.
56
PICNIC PARTY CROSSING A DRIFT
IN THE PARK, MARIT7BURG
57
The principal clubs are the "Victoria," and the "Natal."
Tiiere are, of course, the usual Masonic. Oddfellows, Foresters, and similar lodges.
These include a large and flourishing brewery, a tannery, several brick, pottery, and
printing works, carriage and wagon manufactories, and other
smaller enterprises.
INDUSTRIES
An important show is held annually in connection with the Agricultural Society, and all manner of Colonial ])roductions. manufactures, implements
EXHIBITIONS
stock, etc., are exhibited thereat. The Horticultural Societj', Natal Poultry Club, and Maritzburg Kennel Club, are other well-reputed Institutions that give yearly exhibitions,
Maritzburg possesses a fine theatre. High-class concerts and other entertaiiunents are
organised throughout the year, and outside the wide array of local talent, distinguished artistes from every part of the globe visit the City. Sacred concert and organ recitals are arranged in the Town Hall by the Borough Organist at certain inter\als.
ENTERTAINMENTS
58
Quite a number of sacred edifices are to be found. There are two cathedral-churches — St. Peter's and St. Saviour's. The remains of that great ecclesiast
RELIGION
scholar, Dr. Colenso, first Lord Bishop of Natal, repose beside
altar in St. Peter's. To indicate the religious fervour of the
a former writer may be quoted : " Everv denomination is strongly represented.
and
the
Maritzburg is
SCHOOLS
citizens
and the style of building together with the interior fittings, are sufficient evidence of the
religious vitality."
an educational centre of considerable importance, and its scholastic advantages are sought not only by young Xatalians but also b^" those from the neighbouring Colonies. At Maritzburg itself the College Masters are University men. and the curriculum embraces Classics. English Literature, Science, Mathematics, Modern Languages, etc., as well as elementary subjects. The Merchiston School for boys, and the Girls' Collegiate School, are also important educational institutions. There are, in addition, the Government Boys' Model Primary School, and two Girls' Primary Schools, beside denominational and private scholastic establishments.
INTERIOR OF
THEATRE,
MARITZBURG
NEWSPAPERS
The coloured children also have their schools. The Colleges for boys at Hilton Road and Balgowan. and the Girls' private school at Zwaartkop, are mentioned further on.
Two dailies are published in Maritzburg, viz. : the " Natal Witness " in the morning, and the " Times of Natal " in the afternoon. Both are in able hands, and enjoy a large circulation all over South Africa. There are also the " Government Gazette " and " Natal Afrikaner " issued weekly and bi-weekly respectively.
Branches of three Banking Corporations are in the City : The Natal Bank, Ltd., The Standard Bank of South Africa, Ltd., and the Bank of Africa, Ltd. There is also a Government Savings Bank.
B.ANKS
59
UMSINDUSI RIVER FALLS
Fort Napier which is the chief mihtary centre in times of peace, overlooks the town.
The Garrison accommodation has been largely augmented since the War.
There are two Volunteer regiments — the Natal Carbineers, and Natal Royal Rifles, as well as a Hotchkiss gun section.
GARRISON,
VOLUNTEERS,
NATAL POLICE
The Natal Mounted Police Headquarters are also at Pietermaritzburg.
There is a Rifle Association with a good membership, including the Town Guard, which was formed during the emergency year of 1899. In respect hereof it should be said that, after Ladysmith was invested, and before the arrival of General Boiler in November, 1899, the safety of Maritzburg caused some apprehension. For several nights these able-bodied men stood to arms, but happily the Capital escaped actual jeopardy.
The whole of the volunteer forces and a section of the Natal Police assisted in the Natal Campaign, extending from October, 1899, to September, 1900, and their ranks were depleted of many brave arms, amongst whom record should be made of the late deeply- lamented Colonel Royston, the Commandant, whose magnificent spirit, dash, and tact, proved of great service to the generals conducting the earlier operations, and during the Ladysmith Siege.
60
RAILWAY, POST
CART, HOTEL,
ETC., FACILITIES
THE MAIN RAILWAY LINE gives access South to the port of Durban, and to Richmond (via Thornville Junction) ; North, to Howick, Mooi River, Estcourt, Ladysmith, Harrismith, Glencoe, Dundee, Newcastle, Charlestown, and the Transvaal, while a branch Line radiates from Maritzburg, running to Greytown in Umvoti County (see pages 205-212). The new route to the Cape will, when constructed, also have its junction with the Natal trunk line at Maritzburg.
THE SUBURBS of the Capital reached by rail are Umsindusi, Fox Hill, Zwaartkop, and Hilton Road, on the Main Line ; and Victoria Road, on the Greytown Branch Line.
A POST CART SERVICE runs daily from the City to Edendale, Boston, and Bulwer — (see page 221).
HOTELS and Boarding Houses are plentiful, catering for all classes.
LOCOMOTION in Maritzburg is provided by cab or jinricksha. Electric trams will probably be introduced in the near future.
The street plan of Pietermaritzburg has been specially prepared by the Borough
Engineer, and will be f( much useful information.
PLAN OF PIETERMARITZBURG
Engineer, and will be found to embody
LOVKKS W.ALK, .\LEX.\NDR.\ P.\RK, MARITZBURG
61
It is only due to tlie City to say, that in all things during the War, whether in the immediate response of the citizens to the call of arms — a number of whom never returned — the provision for some
CONCLUSION
12.000 refugees during the prolonged period of the War, the dispensation of relief to the
EDENDALK FALLS
indigent amongst them, or the succouring of the sick and wounded in their hospitals, churches, schools, private residences, and Houses of Parliament, they acted with a noble- ness and fervent loyalty which cannot be too greatly esteemed. The subjoined extract from the eloquent speech of His Royal Highness the Duke of Cornwall and York, delivered at the opening of the New Town Hall in August, 1901, will be kept long in honourable remembrance :
'■ We are very glad that during our long and interesting journey it has been possible to visit the Colony of Natal, and here, in its capital, to open your new Town Hall that takes the place of the original building, the foundation stone of which was laid by my late lamented uncle, the Duke of Edin- burgh. Moreover, I am proud to come amongst you to testify to that profound feeling of admiration which thrilled the whole nation at the ready self-sacrifice with which the manhood of the Colonies rallied round the old flag in the hour of danger. .\nd in doing this I am fulfilling the wish of my dear father, the King, who, keenly sharing this national sentiment, was determined if possible, to give effect to the desire of Her who from the first followed with deep sympathy, interest, and satisfaction the efforts gallantly achieved and sufferings nobly borne by her people in Natal in defence of the Empire. In the cause you have given your best, and here at the heart of the Colony the thought comes home with increa.sed anxietv how few amongst those whom I am addressing have not suffered and made sacrifices
62
•on account of the War. We offer our deepest sympatfiy with all who sent their dear ones to the front never to return. These sacrifices have not been in vain. Never in our history did the pulse of the Empire beat more in unison, and the blood which has been shed in the veld has sealed for ever our unity, based upon a common loyalty and determination to share, each of us according to our strength, the common burden. It is our fervent hope that peace may soon be restored throughout the Continent of South .Africa, and that Natal may continue to advance along her former paths of progress, happiness, and prosperity."
CHAPTER V.
FROM PIETERMARITZBURG TO MOOI RIVER.
RE-coMMEXCiXG our journev northwards, after clearing the busy railway yard, we have upon our right a wide-spreading plain with a lofty range of hills in the background. Fixing our eyes upon the predominating peak — the Zwaartkop — then passing them over the well- wooded eminences in the foreground, we review the pleasant situation of the Botanical Gardens, the Waterworks, and the beautiful Town Bush, and Chase Valleys already named. At the base of the hills is the suburban station of Victoria Road, and stretching towards us. intersected by the Mayor's Walk, are the Military Parade, Polo, and Recreation Grounds.
The Electric Lighting Works, we notice, skirt the line, and the large brick sheds. located some distance to the north-east, are the stables of the railway locomotives. Below the latter the Greytown Branch Line runs.
We are now toiling up the Town Hill. On the right we pass the site of the Boer Refugee
CIVILIZED WEDDING, KDEXD.^LE MISSION STATION
B. ir. Cancy
Camp, on the left is Fort Napier, with its numerous buildings and works. In a moment the Military Cemetery appears in sight.
Passing the sacred field where officer and man are brought to the same noble level, demanding one equal, reverent regard, we wind slowlv up the difficult steeps, past the Military Camp Siding, and see, far l>clow our feet, an immense farm-and-hut-speckled
63
plain, darkened by eucalyptus j<lantations, with mountains, shaped like tables and sugar loaves, asserting themselves in their blue magniticence over all.
Many roads have scratched their routes upon this maji-like plain, and one of them leads to Edendale, a native mission station of considerable influence. This mission is worthy of special mention for its good work amongst the natives. The establishment embraces several industrial institutions, a church, store, and other buildings. A visit thereto would be attended with much enlightenment as to the means employed in the christianising of the kafir. Edendale is not renowned for native mission work alone — it is a favourite pleasure ground, and the Falls of the Umsindusi attract many photo- graphers and other visitors.
Transferring our attention to the right, we receive, ever and anon, charming bird's- eye glimpses of the citv, and the lowering Table Mountain with Sjiitz Kopin attendance. We still pant twistingly on, but the inevitable tardiness is relieved by the exquisitely pretty and refreshing outlook over the even, rolling hills, browsing cattle, lovely kloofs, and beautiful floral embellishments. Shortly after passing The Grange Staff Station, we reach ZWAARTKOP, from which station we secure a grand and complete view of
the Capital. This place is a suburb of Maritzburg, and it is also a much-visited resort on holidays. Near the station a young ladies' Seminary will be observed. A few miles awav is a large native settlement of the tribe
which had for its chief the late Teteleku.
CAMl' DRIFT, MARnViiUKG
Altitudt . 3.951 fat '
Distance ■ ^H '""'S
Fakes :
lit Single. W,. Return, 28,6.
2nd ,. t.'IS .. W-
64
Leaving Zwaart- kop, we advance to a still higher altitude, and traverse one of the most charm- ing pieces of country imagin- able. The right hand gives us a view of two score miles of undu- lating land, and the left presents us at interval- with evergreen hush and creeper- covered kloofs. So near are the\ that we may al- most touch thi trees and fern- frilled rocks, ami hear the ripplt- of the Sweet "Waters, as thi- spot is called. Winding through the cuttings to a greater elevation. we gain another of Nature's simi- lar lavishments. "Winter's Kloof, where a station has been estab- lished. Needless to remark, both SweetWaters and Winter's Kloof are favourite pic- nicking haunts.
The end of our ascent is not yet, although we have risen nearly necessary to pause for a few purposes. After accomplishing growing centres in the Colony-
KAFIR CHIKl' Tl-.TKLKKT
1,200 feet since leaving Pietermaritzburg — and it is
minutes at Boshoff's Ro.\d for locomotive watering
this, we" make for one of the most important wattle-
-Hilton Road. On the hill to the right we descry a
65
SWEET WATERS
portion of one of the largest wattle plantations in the world — over 2,000 acres in extent — and a little further on we take our last jjeep at the mist-shrouded Capital. HILTON ROAD is noted not only on account of its extensive wattle cultivation, for
it boasts a Boys' College ; it is an increasingly popular suburb of the city ; it is very healthy, and affords some magnificent mountain views in fine weather.
After Hilton Road, we wind comfortably through a swelling meadowland, bounded on the extreme left bv a chain of mountains. The nearer view exhibits more wattle-planted expanses, while here and there we observe
|
Allitudc - |
3.703 feci |
||
|
Distance - |
- |
S2i miles |
|
|
Fakes: |
|||
|
HI Single |
206. |
Return, 3019. \ |
|
|
2nd „ |
UIS. |
•■ |
20/6. 1 |
66
Altitude - - - 3.439 feet
Distance - - - 88^ miles
Fares :
7s/ Single, 221- Return, 331-
2nd ,. t'ljS „ 22j-
clusters of trees, and a number of cattle and goats, which announce the near vicinity of farms. Presently the River Umgeni and the luxuriantly situated village of Howick come in sight.
HOWICK needs scant introduction. It is justly famed as one of the chief health and
pleasure places, and as a farming and wood-producing district it is also of some account. The chief attraction lies, of course, in the celebrated Umgeni Falls. The river at this point dashes over a precipice 360 feet in height. In the rainy season, especially, the sight of this sheet of water, stretching sheer from top to toe of the mighty rock, is thrilling and magnificent. The Kar Kloof Falls, some eight to ten miles higher up the Umgeni, are in no sense inferior in splendour. They are formed by tiers of beautiful cascades having an aggregate descent of over 350 feet. The village is situated about two miles from the station, and carriages from the " Falls " and " Castle " Hotels, meet all passenger trains. There is also an hotel located near the station. Accommodation is much in demand at all three. There are three churches, a Public Library, and various clubs in the village, while good fishing may be secured above the Falls.
Passing on, and over the iron structure which bridges the river, we keep the Umgeni in sight, and may discern disciples of the im- mortal Izaak busy with rod, line, and fly. teasing the timid trout. Almost as we watch, we nm through Hos- pital Siding, which marks the location of two large camps during the war, those of the Hospital and the Boer refu- gees. At the latter some 3,500 men, women and chil- dren were provided for. As we proceed, the countrv maintains its beautiful wattle-timbered character, and mealie and vegetable fields break the sameness of the grass lands. Fern Hill {Swan's Crossing) is now quite near, and as we speed by, we catch a glimpse of the prettily-set Sanatorium- hotel, which is the resort of many visitors during the summer months. We soon make another stopjiing place,' rejoicing in the name
^ ' ■ > o ox THK X.G.K., XE.\R BOSHOFF S RO.\D
67
IKIWICK lAl.l.S, 360 FT. Hir.H
68
of "Tv/eedie Hall," a 'station servini^ a flourishing wattle and dairy-farming district. Now we make lor the gateway of the Dargle and Impendhla settlements, particularly noted for their horse and stock-breeding, as well as agricultural pursuits. Indeed, not only these portions of the Colony, but those all along the railway from here to Mooi River are especially adapted for these occupations, as well as for wattle-growing and dairy- farming. Good clay is also obtainable, and the brick-making industry has been started at several points within the area. As we approach
DARGLE ROAD, we notice that the steep country to the left is overtopped by marquee- shaped moimtains.and further on, the Inhluzani group looms like a train of caravans coupled to an elephant. It may be remarked, by the way, that there is good trout fishing in the vicinity of Dargle Road, and an hotel adjoins the station.
Altitude Distance -
Fakks;
1stSin:lc,23 9. Ki
3.477 /eet 95i mite
I .Ml,] \1 RIVF.R, noWICK
There is little to rivet our attention after ])assing Dargle. save the rustic wooden bridge over the Lion's River — looking old and decrepit compared with the iron span over which the railway passes — and perhaps an ox-wagon with several .slothful Kafirs in com- mand. It is a striking picture of the old style and the new. In a little while we com- mence the negotiation of another stiff serpentining climb. .\t the top of this ascent, we receive an extremely fine panoramic view of the country to the left, and notice that the former swollen lands are now reduced to sightly mounds, the pleated hills are streaked with dark brown foliage, while scattered promiscuously about are a number of kafir luits looking no bigger than ant heaps.
LIDGETTON is soon afterwards reached. This is a \er\- agreeable hamlet, where a
healthy holiday may be spent. The air is most invig- orating, and there are some beautiful spots in the kloofs around and about Caversham. There is a small, but homely, hotel near the station, as well as several
|
A ItitiKic |
• |
3.9J2 |
feet |
|
|
Distance |
. |
99i miles I |
||
|
Fares: |
||||
|
1st Single |
151- Return |
, .Jim. |
||
|
2nd |
•. |
1S!8. |
251- |
boarding houses in the vicinity.
good
69
FALLS NEAR HOWICK
station and"school before jiassing the two Staff steam towards the fashionalile health resort of
I'arting from this station, we cross a second bridge over the Lion's River. This stream, it might be said, is neither remarkable for its roar, nor for any other leonine peculiarity, btit it gives some pretty falls about a mile from the station, which we view in ])assing. A little beyond the falls will be observed a delightful piece of pastoral and woodland scenery. Immediately afterwards we enter ujwn the rougher-surfaced country, with big boulders and stones strewn in all directions.
BALGOWAN is the next pas- senger station, and here, while the engine is refreshing itself, we may
AllitmU - - - -l.tSJ/cel
Diilance - . . /WJ milts
Fares;
Isl Single. 2613. Return, 3915.
2nil .. me ,. 2613.
do the same with the light fare pro- vided at a moderate charge. Taking a forward view of the country, we see, standing a little way back from the railway line, a red brick erection, with a square tower surmounting an archway. This is the new Michael House College. It was built with the laudable object of providing a public school conducted on precisely the same lines as those in England, with houses and house-masters, all, f)f course. '\'arsity men.
There is no hotel at Balgowan, but at least one farm is open to paying guests.
Proceeding, we make a long curve,
and taking a farewxll view of the
Stations of Lynedoch and Kingston,
NOTTINGHAM 'ROAD," which is also noteworthy as the farthest point to which
— — ■: 1 detached parties of the raiding Boers penetrated during
Distance - - . ;/7j»i>7«i the uivasion. v\e see on entermg the station a sub-
Fares:
ta Single, 2X1- Return, 421-
2nil .. ISiS. ,. .'^;-
stantial two-storeyed hotel and several other buildings, including the Public Hall ; while around, a few private residences, boarding-houses, and a sanatorium are observed. An enquiry as to the attrac-
70
tions of the locality would elicit the answer — fishing, shooting, riding, tennis, health, with an unmistakable emphasis upon the last-named.
The air is unexceptionable for recuperative purposes. The Drakensberg Mountains lie about thirty miles away, and after leaving the station, its two famous castles, " Giant " and " Champagne," are discernible on the left. From an agricultural and stock-raising point of view, especially the latter, the district is prosperous. Farms have been largely taken up under the Berg during recent years, and the importation of valuable thorough- bred stock from home has greatly improved the herds. In the buck-shooting season, a visit to the Drakensberg from Nottingham Road would not only prove an exceedingly enjoyable and profitable excursion from a sportsman's standpoint, but other persons undertaking it — of course providing for their absence from civilisation for a week or two —
Till', niaiL s r\k\Mm, i\ii"i milua
71
'Tf^f--^'^ _
UMGEM RIVliK
would deri\e no inconsiderable ph\sical good from the exhilarating sojourn amongst the mountains, whilst jihotographers and scien- tific hobbyists would secure many \'aluable souvenirs. The "Towers." as they are called a 'veritable liistis naturce, would in them- selves repay the journey. There they stand, these three stupendous heights, stern, mag- nificent, alone, their nakedness half clothed by tresses of long silken grass, while rugged precipices gaze in awe, and chasms keeji them each inviolate — mighty monuments of a mighty caprice, too sublime in conception, too symmetrical in form, to have been chiselled by mortal hands.
ROSETTA, the succeeding station, is the centre of one of
the most prolific jiotato and rhubarb producing districts in the Colony. English fruits arv also largely grown. Heading now for Mooi River, in the same winding manner as the canal -like stream which we have as comjjany for several miles, our meandering continues through a distinctly pastoral land, until we pass the regular lines of the Military Hospital tents, cross the river bridge, and cut through the narrow neck of the railwav \"ard into the station, where, it
A llilude . ■ ■ 4.614 feet
Distance - - - //JJ niilcs
Fares-
7s/ Single, 2819. Ketiirn 4312.
2nd ,. 1912. .. .'*/9.
AN l-P-COLNTRY ORCHARD
RIVER SCENE, MIDLANDS, NATAL
should be noted, a sufficiently long stay is made for refreshments.
MOOI RR'ER is not honest to its name. It cannot, by any possible stretch of
imagination, be said to be "mooi" (pretty), but it is a healthy locality of wide renown, and much sought in the summer- time for its beautiful and medicinal climate. There is a good hotel near the station, the "Grantleigh." and another
about a mile away at Weston, the " Lake," a very commodious and picturesque hostelry.
Some fine falls occur in the Mooi River, about fifteen miles awaw
|
A Ititude ■ |
'l.5S6/eet |
|
|
Distance - |
- |
723), miles |
|
Fares : |
||
|
Ist Single |
3113 Return, ■leilf. |
|
|
2nd „ |
20IW. |
3113. |
■^igi^.'rpr*^ ' m.^.
MICHAEL HOUSE COLLEGE, BALGOWAN
The neighbourhood is notable for dairj-ing and stock-breeding. Most of the South African products and all kinds of fruits also thrive well. The Natal Creamery Company has a large .ind important establishment at Mooi River,
73
DRAKENSBF.RG (11,000 lEF.T)
which, togetherwitli the Creamery at Nel's Rust, prac- tically provide the whole Colony with milk, cream, and hntter, also sending supplies to tlie ])rincipal Trans\aal centres.
Uc
DkAKENSBEKG, BASLTOLAM) BOKOER
74
eagle's nest PICAK, DRAKEXSISERG
' /; Middlebrook
REIT VLE)I, a considerable farming and stock district in Umvoti Countv. is reached by post-cart, which runs from Mooi River station every Tuesday and Friday about 1.30 p.m., fare 12s. 6d.
Mooi River is historic as marking the termination of the Boer invasion under responsible leaders. The enemy -was certainly observed farther south, but, as previously stated, in disconnected bands. The operations in Natal may therefore be said to have commenced from this point, and are distinctively treated in the following pages, which, in addition to encompassing the attractive scenes observable from the train in passing through the War district, will, it is hoped, present a reliable vu'le tneciim for the guidance of visitors to the various battle grounds and interesting spots incidental to the Natal Campaign.
75
PART THREE.
THE MAIN LINE OF RAILWAY
(Continuedi.
THROUGH THE WAR DISTRICT.
7S
PART THREE.
THE WAR DISTRICT.
CHAPTER I. IXTRODL'CTORY.
BEFORE passing into that district wherein were enacted those noble deeds, and where occurred those grim and stirring episodes which have photographed themselves upon the imagination of the world, it is desirable to mention that except in a few instances, notably about Estcourt, between Colenso and Ladysmith, and further on between Waschbank and Glencoe Junction, there is nothing exceptionally picturesque in the LANDSCAPE visible from the train, although a deeper search would be rewarded with scenes both bold and romantically beautiful. The visitor will review many notable and historic hills, the magnificent Drakensberg and Biggarsberg Mountain ranges; broad alluvial valleys; important rivers; and a number of kafir kraals; but the verdure and loveliness of the lower portions of the land will not be so evident. Nevertheless this area is the most fascinating part of all the Colony to the tourist, and attractive likewise to the agricultural and stock-farming settler.
As regards INDUSTRIAL CAPABILITIES, the northern districts are essentially pastoral, as will be gathered from the flocks of sheep, herds of cattle, and droves of horses which may be encountered. All kinds of South African Produce— roots, cereals, fruit, etc., are also extensively cultivated, whilst dairy farming is a considerable pursuit. The immense coal mining operations in the latitude north of Ladysmith, and especially in the Dundee district, are well known to constitute one of the largest industries in the Colony. New mines are being continually opened up in different parts of the country, which says much for the abundance of the " black diamond " deposits.
Touching the matter of CLIMATE, it may be said at once that every place enjoys a bracing atmos- phere, but during the winter months the uplands are occasionally very cold.
CONCERNING THE WAR. The country between Mooi River and the border of the Transvaal has been made the subject of an independent part, divided into EIGHT CHAPTERS, as follows: Chapter I. is assigned to these Introductory observations; II. deals with the events before Colenso; III. with the battlefields and interesting points around that place ; IV. describes the historic spots •« route between Colenso and Ladysmith ; V. is devoted to the town of Ladysmith and the Siege ; VI. reviews all its battlefields and attractions, including Spion Kop and Vaal Krantz; VII. is concerned with the country between Ladysmith and Dundee, embracing the Elands Laagte and Dundee engagements, together with a resume of the cause of the quarrel ; while VIII. covers the district between Glencoe Junction and the Transvaal border, summarizing General BuUer's sweeping movement beyond Lady- smith, and detailing the battle-grounds in the vicinity of Ingogo and Charlestown.
Each station within the War territory is given in exact order, and the numerous incidents and scenes have been described and arranged to suit the convenient reference of the tourist. Nearly all the battles ^were fought within easy access of the Railway line.
Great care has been exercised to give a faithful account of the various scenes, conflicts, and casualties, and to combine the descriptive with the practical. The exhaustive details and data have been collected from the most reliable sources, and the following excellent works, of which the writer has consulted several to verify or supplement his own impressions, and to the authors of which he tenders his grateful obligations, can be recommended for full and engrossing details of all the incidents connected with the Natal campaign, viz. i "The 'Times' History of the War." "The Great Boer War," by Sir A. Conan Doyle; "The Natal Campaign," by Bennet Burleigh; "From London to Ladysmith, via Pretoria," by Winston Churchill; "With the Flag to Pretoria," by H. W. Wilson; "South Africa and the Transvaal War," by Louis Creswicke, as well as "The Battlefields of Natal Revisited," published by John Singleton & Sons, Durban.
The stupendousness of the task which Sir Redvers Buller and his army at last so magnificently accomplished, and the obvious difficulties, dangers, hardships, and Imperial responsibilities with which Sir George White and the heroes at Ladysmith were confronted, can only be fully realised by a visitation
79
of the immortal fields. At every turn innumerable mouths in sad, mute, eloquence proclaim "the purple testament of bleeding war" monuments and graves i cinnon emplacements, redoubts, sangars and schanzes ; wire entanglements, lyddite-blasted tr^cs and rocks; as well as the cleverly conceived Boer entrenchments, deep and narrow, with overhanging sand bag ledges to protect from shrapnel and time- fuse shells and to conceal the occupants, some with covered accommodation at the end not only sufficent for storing immense quantities of food and ammunition, but for housing large numbers of Boers them- selves. These trenches are particularly well designed at Colenso, on the Ladysmith Hills, and on Lang's Nek. In some places. Time, the elements, and the tourist, have inevitably damaged the original formation, but many are intact, while some of the other evidences of the gigantic struggle will remain for generations. To those who may not be able to secure shells, empty cartridges, or other relics from the various fields and hills, and who are not photographers, it would perhaps be a pretty alternative to pick flowers from each and keep them as remembrancers. By this means the visitor will become possessed of some specimens of flora indigenous to the Colony, as well as emblematical mementoes of peace plucked from Natal's battlefields.
The BIRD'S-EYE MAP of the War District included with this work forms a special addition. The country is shown in elevation, and it is hoped that the idea \vhich prompted its compilation, that of providing a unique, and at the same time, complete, serviceable, and accurate reference map of the entire War Area, in one sheet, will be found of interest and assistance not only in tracing the various scenes narrated in the following pages, but also as a compendious and independent souvenir of the memorable Campaign.
CHAPTKR II. FROM MOOI RIVER TO CHIKVHLKY
BEFORE COLENSO.
MOOI RI\'ER marks the site of the most southern British Post in Natal during the last Boer War. and also the terminus of the enemy's main invasion. The Boers made a weak assault under Botha upon General Barton's position on the 2ist November, i8gg, and fired upon the Railway Station on that date, and again on the 22nd, but were afterwards withdrawn at the command of Joubert. In this effort they were intercepted at Willow Grange, and suffered a severe check, which moralK' saved Estcourt from occupation.
HIGHLANDS STATION, ^,000 I-F.ET ABOVE SUA LEVEL
80
HIGHLANDS is the highest station above the gg^ between the
Altitude - - - 4,954 feet I „ . , ^, i
Distance . - - ;iO| mUts Port and C harles-
I St Single. 3219. Return. 4912. tOWn. It haS HO
2nd .. 2,1,0. ■■ S2,9._^ ^p^^j^j attractions, but is noteworthy as the last Railway Station vacated upon the approach of the invader. Glen is a Staff station, and
BRYNBELLA'a small passenger station be- tween Highlands
Altitude- - - 4.7SS feet ,,,,■,, ^
Distance - - - ,3si, miles and W lUow Grange. 1st Single, 3319. Return, 50IS. Brynbclla is of some
2nd „ 2216. „ 3319. ,-iil t • *
' ■ little notoriety, as
recorded below.
WILLOW GRANGE.
As already mentioned, the Boers retired
Altitude - - - 4.430 feet i , ,, ■ x-.-
Distance- - - ,3S miles \ frOm MoOl KlVer,
Fares: , . ...
1st Single. 3416. Return. 5119. i aUU in thlS mOVe- 2nd „ 231- „ 3416. i , ,
— 1 ment were accele- rated by General Hildyard, who held the ne.xt British Post at Estcourt. To force this limb of the enemy in front of our main body was absolutely essential, and with that object, in the early hours of the morning of the 23rd November, 1899, a small army, covered by a naval gun on Beacon Hill, attacked the Boers on Brynbella Hill, and after a severe encounter took the position. Our losses were 13 killed and 74 wounded and missing. The enemy then retreated to their stronghold on the Tugela, wrecking the Railwa}' bridges as they passed.
There is no hotel at Willow Grange, but several farms in the vicinity accommodate paying guests.
Beaco.-i Hill and Mimosa are Staff Stations between Willow Grange and
ESTCOURT. The Railway approach to this - town is thoroughly
AUitmIe - - - 3,S33 jeet , _ ° "^
Distance - ,i6\ miles [ agreeable. The rug-
ged mountainous country, mimosa
Fares:
,st Single, 36/6. Return. 5419. 2nd „ 2414. „ 3616.
valleys, and the winding Bushman's River in\'ite more than a hasty glance. Estcourt, being the chief trading centre for the surrounding district, is of some importance. It has a population of over 400, and possesses a fair number of substanti- ally-erected stone buildings. There are several
z
o u < a ca
81
ESTCOUKT
churches, a library, three hotels, and a sanatorium. The neighbourhood is very healthy, and interesting. The district is a very good one for stock and dairy farming, as well as for agriculture. Estcourt is dominated by hills, and Fort Durnford crowns one of the southern eminences. The rivers Big and Little Bushman converge at the north end of the town, forming some pretty falls. The long five-span bridge across the larger river, and the one over the Kli]) River at Ladvsniith, were the only two structures of any consequence for 15S miles to the border, which escaped demolition by the Boers.
Estcourt played an important part during the war. It was a large British post for some time after the investment of Ladysmith. and a jjortion of the relieving army was concentrated here prior to General Bullcr's advance. Beacon Hill, jjreviously referred to, and Gun Hill, on which the Naval guns were placed when the town w'as threatened, are within easy reach.
The important and historic village of Weenen is situated about 20 miles to the north- east of Estcourt, with which place it is connected by a tri-weekly Post Cart service. It is pleasantly set in a deep, warm, well-wooded hollow, and has a population nearly that of Estcourt itself, the larger proportion of the inhabitants being the descendants of the early Dutch pioneers. This agricultural settlement is an e.xcellent one for the thrifty and industrious farmer. The soil is very prolific, and grain, roots, tobacco, and fruits of good quality are produced in large quantities.
There are also evidences of limestone dej^osits in the valley, and coal is known to e.xist in the neighbourhood, and also around Estcourt. Near W'eenen is the Umkolumba Mountain, which was used as our heliographic station throughout the Ladysmith siege.
Weenen has a sad yet stirring history. In the year 1837, during their homeless wan derings, a band of Dutch emigrants from the Cape territory looked down from the heights of the Drakensl^erg upon the lovely plains of Xatal. Choosing as their leaders Piet Retief and Gert Maritz, they came through the wild passes of the mountains to this then savage land, pitched their tents along the banks of the Tugela and Bushman's Rivers, and treated through the Zulu king Dingaan for a grant of land. The assassination of Retief and his party immediately after the cession was concluded is known. This, however, was but the beginning of greater bloodshed, for Dingaan, intent upon exterminating the remaining emigrants, at once desi)atched
82
his Impis on that inhuman errand, and each of the several encampments, of which " Weenen " was one, was attacked ahnost simultaneously in the middle of the night, and men, women, and children, helpless and paralysed by terror, were foully murdered, only the cattle being spared. In all some 600 were killed, and the Boers wept greatly for the massacred, and in remembrance named their laager on the Bushman's river, " \\'eenen," which is " weeping." They then waged war against their barbaric foes, but Dingaan's power was not broken until ten months afterwards, when the merciless and treacherous king was utterly defeated and three thousand of his followers were slain. Four hundred were shot, so say the Zulus, on the banks of a tributary of the Buffalo, whose waters ran red with their blood, and Blood River it is called to this day. This sanguinary battle occurred on the i6th December, 1838, which date is religiously observed as an anniversary of thanksgiving amongst the descendants of these hardy
83
and adventurous voertrekkers. It is interesting to note that at Blaauw Krantz drift, about four miles to the east of Chieveley Station, a cairn, enclosing the bones of some of the massacred emigrants, was erected in 1897 on the site of one of the unhappy encampments.
I,. ENNERSDALE is a general farming district. A good hotel and a sanatorium are
in evidence. The Drakensberg with its long, hazy, bluish tiers, imposing and severe, is over thirty miles away, but looks nearer. Some tourists make this their starting point for visiting the caves once inhabited by those quaint human pigmies, the Bushmen, an aboriginal race now almost e.xtinct. Tabamhlopc, or white mountain, 6,500 feet high, is accessible from this station, or from Kstcourt.
Alliluile - . J.9I3 fcti
Distance - - - /i/J fiii7«
FAKbS ;
lit Stngit, 3816. Kttum, S7I9. 2nd „ 2SIS. „ 3SI6.
StTK <)1- AK.MOl KI-.U lUAlN DISASIIK, I l< 1-. K 1-.
Altilude ■ ■ ■ 3.417 /eel
Distance - • - Ifil niitts
Fakes:
tst Single, 4013. Return, fiOji.
2nd .. 26110. .. 4013.
FRERE was the headquarters of General Bullcr for some time before, and subsequent
to, the disastrous battle of Colenso. From this point the flank movement was made along the Springfield Road to Spearman's Camp, culminating in the unsuccessful attacks upon Spion Kop and Vaal Krantz in the January and Feb- ruary following. Some of the officers and men wounded in the former engagement, and who died in the Military Hospital then stationed at Frere, lie buried in the same graveyard with those who fell at the armoured train disaster on the 15th November, 1899. The cemetery marking the site of the latter mishap, will be found close to a bend in' the line on the right hand side, about a mile and a half north of the station. The circumstances of this unfortunate affair may be briefly recounted : An armoured train, containing in all some 120 officers, men, and railway staff was despatched on a scouting expedition from Estcourt. The enemy cunningly allowed it to pass this particular spot, in the vicinity of which are several hills, then placed an obstruction on the line where it tal:cs a curve. Back came the cumbrous, steaming scout all at once it was vigorously shelled, full steam was put on, the train reached the fatal curve, stumbled, and the three front trucks toppled over, shooting the occupants on to the ground, only the engine and two hinder vehicles keeping the rails. The enemy rained shot and shell u])on the unfortunate men, and although they retaliated with admirable spirit while the engine was cutting a way through the wreckage, the little force
8+
was out-numbered and out-gunned. The locomotive forced a passage back to Estcourt during the time the fight was proceeding, bearing some of the killed and wounded, but after a gallant stand against overwhelming odds, in which Mr. Winston ChurchiU took a conspicuous part, the men surrendered. The casualties were one hundred killed, wounded, and taken prisoners.
For the information of those wishing to visit this graveyard, or the Springfield District, it might be stated that a roomy hotel is situated within a few minutes' walk of Frcrc.
The Blaauw Krantz River flows near the station, and is strongly bridged by a new erection in place of the one destroj-ed by the Boers. The station-master's and plate- layer's houses were the respective headquarters of General Buller and Commandant General Joubert during one period of the war.
CHIE\'ELEY is five and a half miles from Frere,andis set in the midst of an enormous
tableland. It is noted as the camping ground of General Buller's army of 20,000 men, which he moved into action on the never-to-be-forgotten 15th December, 1899, the date of the first great battle of the Relieving Column. The
Aliunde - . - 3,521 feet
Distance . - . 766J mites
Fares:
Isl Single, 4116. Return, 6213.
2nd „ 27/». „ 4116.
actual fighting ground is at Colenso, but the greater number of our soldiers who suffered death on this occasion (together with Lieut, the Hon. F. H. S. Roberts, V.C.) are buried in the military cemetery about 200 yards south of Chieveley station. Gun Hill and Shooter's Hill which bore our large Naval cannon, are also situated not far from the station.
S5
GRAVES AT COLKNSO
There is no hotel at Chieveley. but ]iersons visiting the graveyard usually drive, or take train from Colcnso.' Four miles to the right of Chieveley Station, on the lianks of the Blaauw Krantz River, may be seen the monument raised in commemoration of the massacre of the Dutch pioneers in 1838. The prophecy uttered at the time the cairn was erected, that the bones it contains would remain " a monument of Dutch supremacy till they wasted away or a greater heap of bones took their place," is passing strange — the great Colenso battles were fought three years afterwards within gunshot of the very place.
The next famous station is seven miles from Chievelev. In the West the Berg looms massively, and in the east distance, as the train proceeds, the earth is seen to be dis- figured bv huge humps and fiat-topped swellings. Nearer the line are tiny mounds and crosses. This is the fatal field of Colenso !
CHAPTKK III. COLKXSO: ITS P^.^TTI-HFIKLDS.
THE traveller on nearing this historic village will note a semi-circle of hills stretching from east to the far west, where they seem to be swallowed up by the Drakensberg. Those on the right are overgrown by countless patches of mimosa trees, those on the left are mostly stony, rugged and bare. At the base of these heights winds the I longest, broadest, swiftest river in the Colony, and in front
\ Allilmlt - - - 3.156 ftet . " . ' , , , ■ tj i- "i ^i in
Distance- - - 17 3^ miles \ IS an immense donga-cracked plam. Hehmd the hills are tsi Single, 4313"^ Reimn.6J:ii. I othcrs, tier upon tier, rolling and Contracting like an agitated -'"* ■■ ■""'■ — " "'^- 1 sea, and in the hollow at the back of all ~is— Ladysmith.
86
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X vo
V)
5 a
IS
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Standing on the platform oi the Colenso station and looking across the railway line, you will see a low-backed mound, isolated from the broken range. This is Hussar Hill. The big eminences behind are the noted Cingola, Green Hill, and Hlangwane, while Monte Cristo runs back between the two last-named hills. By walking a little distance upon the field in front, on a clear day can be seen the distant summits of " Hart's." " Railway," and " Pieter's " Hills, all of which are drawn in blood on the map of fame. A few hundred yards to the north-east of the station, immediately on the far side of the new bridge o\-er the Tugela, stands Fort Wylie, but neither the bridge nor the river are per- ceptible from the station. To the left of these again is a block of hills, all bearing traces of the Struggles of 1899 and 1900. In the distance the Grobelaar's Kloof and Doom Kloof ranges are descried, while, far off. with its deceptive proximity, is the Drakensberg.
GD Q O < K O
THE GRE.\T FIELD OF COLENSO bristles with mourn- ful memories : graves are ev^ery- where, almost every rood has borne the tread of death-dealing armies. But it seems peaceful enough to-day with o.xen and goats scattered over the wide- sweeping flat, birds twittering in the squat thorn bushes, the dusky Kafir lightly carolling as he swings along towards his kraal, and the level-crowned Hlangwane and his companions looking down in surly silence, the trench rents in their bodies nearly
87
healed. Yet what a contrast to that melancholy day which gave to us 163 fatalities and 740 wounded officers and men, and to the enemy 227 prisoners, 10 valuable guns and the evidence of unai)i)roachable morale. The positions of the several Infantry Brigades at this battle will readily be recalled. — Barton's on the right of the railway line, and Hildyard's, Lyttelton's and Hart's on the left — in all some 15,000 men. The artillery was stationed — Long's battery on the right, and Parson's and the Naval guns covering the attacks on the left of the line, Dnnrlonald's Cavalrv working round tlie enemy's left flank
The VILLAGE OF COLENSO is about 300 yards from the station, where a commodious hotel will be found- Guides have their headquarters there, and excursions, either by conveyance or on horseback, are organised daily to the many PLACES AND SCENES OF INTEREST DESCRIBED.
It may be useful to know that some tourists visit Ladysmith first, and Colenso on their return journey, while others do the reverse. The arrangement of tours must necessarily depend upon the time at the visitor's disposal, but a week or more can easily be spent at either place. Of course, the more prominent features of attraction can be seen in a couple of days.
Colenso is not alone magnetic by reason of its battle recollections: it is a most invigo- rating spot, and has a distinct charm of scenery in the unsurpassable Drakensberg, whose soft green early morning raiment is most beautiful, and whose deep blue evening mantling, fringed and pierced by a golden luminance, and backed by mingling crimsons, greys, and greens, is indescribably grand.
88
\Mthin a quarter of a mile of the railway station platform, and plump in the centre of the historic arena, is the spot where Col. Long's guns (14th and 66th Batteries) were captured and the donga to which the vvounded were removed. Two monuments have been erected near by, one to the memory of Lieut. F. H. S. Roberts, the gallant son of the honoured Commander-in-Chief, who was shot whilst endeavouring to save the guns ; and the other to the officers and non-commissioned officers and men of the 14th Battery who fell to the honour and glory of British tradition on the 15th December, 1899. It will be marvelled how terribly near to the deadly shell and rifle fire of the enemj- the Batteries were unlimbered, and what an unequalled target they presented for the Boer Artillery, from the amphitheatre in which it was located. How truly magnificent must have been the behaviour of the gunners. Can we conjure anything worthier of admira- tion than the following incident told by Conan Doyle :
COLENSO AND RIVER TLGELA FROM HLANGWANK HILL
" One gun on the right was still served by four men who refused to leave it. They seemed to bear charmed lives, these four, as they strained and wrestled with their beloved 15-pounder, amid the spurting sand and the blue wreaths of the bursting shells. Then one gasped and fell against the trail, and his comrade sank beside the wheel with his chin upon his breast. The third threw up his hands and pitched forward upon his face : while the survivor, a grim powder-stained figure, stood at attention looking death in the eyes until he too was struck down. A useless sacrifice you may say ; but while the men who saw them die can tell such a story round the camp fire the example of such deaths as these does more than the clang of bugle or roll of drum to stir the warrior spirit of our race.'
89
May it be recorded that some distance down the field will be found an unpretentious grave, with a small wooden cross bearing this inscription, " N.C.O. ; R.A., who fell at the guns. He died for his country." We look now upon this, do we not, merely as the acme of a simple, beautiful modesty ? Hut the future — the elements spare not the brave ! the words, the cross, the mound itself may pass away, or become an undistinguishable lump, prodded by the tourist's cane, crumpled by his feet, sharded by scampering animals : the sepulchre of a hero, nameless and unknown ! As Bennet Burleigh says : " These are the men who deserve monuments over their graves, and even Victoria Crosses in their coffins."
HLANGWAXE. Here may be seen the enemy's entrenchments, and from the top, a fine panorama of the whole of the positions at the first Colenso battle is secured, including the point wliore the Tugela was so ingeniously bridged by the Boers with sleepers and rails torn up from the neighbouring railway track ; while the direction of the final movements from the 12th to the 27th February, 1900, via Hussar Hill, Cingola, Monte Cristo, the rail-side hills, the Valley of the Tugela, and the Pieters Heights, given in the subjoined epitome, can also he followed •
THE ( HIEF JNCTDENIS IN THE FOURTH AND FINAL MOVEMENT OF THE RELIEVING COLUMN, FEBRUARY 7TH— MARCH ist, 1900.
(E.\tracted from General Sir Redvers BuUer's Despatch.)
On the 7th February, igoo, hnding the position at V'aal Krantz too strong, 1 telegrapaeil to Sir George White that I was moving to attack Ulangwane.
I left an intrenched force of Infantry, two naval 12-pouncIers, a brigade of Cavalry, and a battery of Horse .Vrtillery at Springliekl. The rest of my force was concentrated at Chieveley by the iith Kebruary.
On the 1 2th 1 reconnoitred the Hlangwane position, which I found occupied by the enemv. The 13th was so intensely hot that 1 did not move the troops.
On the 14th February I moved from Chieveley, and after slight opposition, occupied Hussar Hill, opposite the centre of the enemy's position.
On the 15th I extended my position to the right and commenced an Artillery fire.
On the i6th my Infantry outposts were pushed down to the line of the Gomba Stream, and the eas- tern end of Cingola Hill was occupied by the 2nd Cavalry Brigade.
The 14th, 15th and i6th were so hot that no Infantry movements on any scale were possible, but a steady bombardment was kept up.
On the 17th the 2nd Division, under General Lyttelton, advanced to the Gomba Valley, and the 2nd Brigade moved up and occupied Cingola Hill.
On the i8th the 2nd Cavalry Brigade moved forward along the eastern slopes of Cingola and the 2nd Brigade crossed the Nek and assaulted Monte Cristo, the steep crags of which were brilliantly carried, after considerable resistance, by the West Yorkshire and Queen's Regiments. .\s soon as Monte Cristo was gained. General Lyttelton advanced the 4th Brigade, and the Rifle Brigade worked forward along the western slopes of Monte Cristo to the back of the left of the enemy's position, and General Warren throwing the 6th Brigade forward, the position was well carried by the Royal Scots Fusiliers and abandoned precipitately by the enemy.
On the 19th General Hart advanced from Chieveley on Colenso, and the 2nd and 5th Divisions moved forward up the south bank of the Tugela against Hlangwane, which was taken by the 6th Briga de ; our heavy guns moved to the northern end of Monte Cristo.
On the 20th we found that the enemy had, during the night, abandoned all his positioas south ol the Tugela, and also his main position in Colenso.
On the 2ist we threw a bridge across the Tugela (the river was Very rapid, tho bridge 98 yards lone), and after a rather severe opposition from the north, the Colens" position was occupied by General Coke and the loth Brigade.
90
r HMttMimnni
TUGELA RIVER AT COLENSO, HLANGWANF. HILL IN BACKGROUND
On the 22nd the nth Brigade, supported by the 2nd Division, took possession of the hills which covered the railway bridge over Onderbrook Spruit, and commanded the country between that and Langerwachte Spruit. The fighting was very severe. Our principal objective was a long hog-backed hill running north and south, which completely commands the valley of the Langerwachte Spruit. At the end of the day we had obtained a footing upon the two most important hills in the Onderbrook Valley. The'position thus won, after hard fighting, covered the line of the railway across Onderbrook Spruit up to the Langerwachte Valley. This valley is full of dongas and small isolated kopjes, more or less covered with bush ; in fact an ideal place for the methods of defence eraoloyed by the enemy. The eastern side of the valley is closed by a high steep hill (Hart's) which was evidently the enemy's main position, and which was ven,' strongly fortified and protected by extremely strong flank defences. This hill must be taken before we could advance further. During the afternoon of the 22nd and the morning of the 23rd. the enemy's positions near the Langerwachte, and all the dongas leading thereto were thoroughly searched by shell fire, and on the afternoon of the 23rd, General Hart advanced with the 5th Brigade, supported by two battalions of the 4th Brigade, to attack the position east of the spruit.
The attack was delivered with the utmost gallantry, but the men failed to reach the top of the hill. The regiments the Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers, the Connaught Rangers, and half the Royal Dublin Fusiliers, suffered severely, but their loss was not unproductive, their gallantrv secured for us the lower sangars and a position at the foot of the hill, which ensured our ultimate success.
I saw that if 1 could effect a crossing nearer to the east of the po.sition occupied by General Hart. I should be able to turn the enemy's left and drive him from his positions. On the 24th, the rugged crests of the south bank of the Tugela from Hlaugwane to Monte Cristo were searched for a roadway, and a Kafir path was found which gave access to the river below the cataract, exactly at the back of General Hart's position. Road making was at once commenced on both sides of the river. I with- drew the garrison from Frere. reduced that at Chieveley, and called up'everv gun'and man I could muster for the final assault.
91
MONTE CRISTO RANGE ANO TlC.l.l.A KI\KR
On the 25th, Sunday. I directed my guns not to iire unless attacked, and proposed to the enemy a cessation of hostihties to bury dead and bring in wounded, many of whom on both sides had been lying unattended for forty hours or more. This the Commandants, Botha an<i Lucas Meyer assented to.
Throughout the 25th, work at the new roads was being pressed, and the baggage of the i ith Brigade and all the heavy guns were passed over the pontoons back to Hlangwane. At S p.m. the enemy emphasised the recommencement of hostilities by opening a tremendous rille fire from all his positions.
During the 26th the guns were got into position, and a slow bombardment was kepi up. By 6 p.m. the approaches to the new bridge were complete, and during the night of the 26th-27th, the pontoons were taken up, brought round and by 10.30 a.m. the 27th. the new bridge was ready for traffic.
On the left, General Coke and the loth Brigade occupied the Colenso kopjes. General I^yttelton, with the Royal Fusiliers and Royal Welsh Fusiliers of the 6th Brigade, and the Devonshire Itegiment, Royal West Surrey, two Companies West Yorkshire, and two Companies East Surrey, of the 2nd Brigade with four companies Scottish Rifles, of the 4th Brigade under General Hildyard, held the hills between the Onderbrook and Langerwachte Valleys. There was a battery of 76 guns on a front of about 4j miles. At Chieveley were one naval 6-inch Quick Firing gun, three naval 4.7-inch and two naval 12-pounders. These guns covered the Colensol^adysmith road and the deep kloofs on each side of it which were very strongly held by the enemy, who. I think, really expected us to attack on that side.
The attacking party consisted of the Royal Welsh and Royal Scots Fusiliers and the Royal Dublin Fusiliers under General Barton ; the Royal Lancaster, the South Lancashire, the York and Lancaster, and the West Yorkshire under General Kitchener, and the 4th Brigade, the whole under command of General Warren.
General Hart held the tete du pout on the north bank of the Tugela with the Connaught Rangeis, the Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers, and the Imperial Light Infantry.
The position occupied by the enemy consisted of three rocky hills rising abruptly from the Tugela to a height above it of about 600 feet. The westernmost hill, called by us Terrace Hill (Hart's) is separated from the middle hill and from the rugged crests of the north bank of the Tugela by a valley which rises steeply from the Langerwachte. and ends in a shallow nek between the two bills over which
92
the Colenso-Ladysmith railway track passes. The middle hill, called by us Railw.w Hill, is separated from the eastern, called Pieter's Hill, by a deep ravine along the western side of which the railway to Pieter's winds through deep cuttings. Pieter's Hill rising steeply on the west from this ravine, falls by gentler gradients to the north east towards the Klip River, the valley of which is intersected by dongas clothed in thick mimosa and camel thorn scrub.
Terrace Hill (H.\rt's) was a formidable position, it was strongly fortified with three tiers of trenches and flanked by trenches running down the Langerwachte Spruit on one side, and up almost to the crest of Railway Hill on the other. The crests of these hills were about 1,700 yards distant from the river which here flows through a deep gorge, the sides of which on the north are almost precipitous to about 400 feet, the ground from the crest of this gorge to the crest line of the hills presenting an excellent field of fire for a force occupying the crests. Within this field the fire sangars had been constructed in every suitable spot. Pieter's Hill was not so strongly held, but a very considerable force was, as we found out later, concealed in the ravine between it and Railway Hill. Our approaches to the position were of the worst possible description ; there was no road, and the attacking column had to scramble up an almost precipitous rocky cliff to gain the crest of the ravine. We had, though, one great advantage, our Artillery positions were e.xcellent, and from the length of our line the enemy's positions were in almost all cases partly enfiladed as well as met by frontal fire.
At 10.30 a.m. General Barton's force crossed the pontoon bridge, and scrambling about one and a half miles down the edges of the Tugela, ascended the steep cliffs of Pieter's Hill unopposed, the rifle and machine gun fire from the south bank having cleared the north bank.
General Kitchener's Brigade followed General Barton's over the pontoon bridge, and diverting slightly to their right, scaled the shoulder of the ravine, and gained the railway cutting. General Kitchener then directed the West Yorkshire and the Royal Lancaster Regiments to attack Railway Hill. The sangars in the vallev were soon taken, and the Royal Lancaster and South Lancashire pressing on, well supported by the York and Lancaster on the right, and the 4th Brigade on the left, soon gained the summit of the hill, and the dav was won.
Gli.NLR.iVL BULLER S FORCKS CROSSl.NCi PONTOON liRIDGE. FINAL .\T1ACK Ol RFl.lFF COLUMN, FEBRUARY 27TH, I gOO niV.Caney
03
The enemy fled in all directions.
Hy eight p.m. firing had ceasied, and at dayliyhl the enemy had disappeared from our front and Hanks.
On the 28th General Lyttelton's Division marched unopposed along the Railway Line and Hoer Road to the position captured the previous day, and the Cavalry and .\rtillery were sent forward.
1 assigned the frontal advance to Lord Dundonald, as I was anxious the Colonial troops (Natal Carbineers and Imperial Light Horse) should, if possible, be the first to enter Ladysmith. He entered Ladysmith about 6 p.m.
On the 1st March I was moving to attack Huhvana, when I found it had been evacuated in the night, so I moved the force to Nelthorpe and rode into Ladysmith.
So was accomplished the relief of Ladysmith. It was the men who did it. Danger and hardship were nothing to them, and their courage, their tenacity, and their endurance, were beyond all praise.
The loss involved in the above movements out of the 25,000 men engaged, was 363 killed, 1.723 wounded, and 16 missing and prisoners, a total of 2,102. The Boer loss is difficult to assess, but it would be very heavy.
It is estimated that from first to last the relief of Ladysmith entailed a loss of 700 killed, 3,860 wounded, and 600 prisoners and missing, a total of 5.i(m). and a depletion of 10 guns.
BOER TRENCHES AT COLENSO.
THE BANKS OF THE TUGEI.A. Stretching lor seven or eight miles may be traced the famous Boer trenches.
THE MAIN WAGON ROAD over the Bulvver Bridge, The original centre span of this bridge was shot awaj- b\' our Naval guns at Chieveley on the 19th December, 1899, in order to hamper the enemy's movements after the Colenso disaster. The number and the strength of the sangars and gun emplacements running along each side of the road for miles — constructed by the Boers in anticipation of the relieving column forcing a passage this way — are particularly interesting.
94-
WHERE THE Dl'BLINS CROSSED THE TUGELA, COLF.NSO
THE POINT OF ATTACK OF GENERAL HART'S IRISH BRIGADE is two miles along the south bank of the Tugela to the west of Colenso. This resulted in a loss of some 100 men when advancing to cross a mythical drift. The killed were buried near the river. This is the spot, too, where a party of recklessly brave Dublin Fusiliers attempted to swim the river. Some were shot in mid stream, some were dragged down to a watery grave by the weight of their accoutrements, a few reached the opposite bank, but onlj- one or two returned to tell the tale.
NEAR CHIEVELEY is the graveyard already mentioned.
HART'S HII.L was the first of the three famous Pieter's Heights attacked by the ill- fated Irish Brigade on the 23rd, and held with such tenacity until victoriously carried on the 27th February, 1900. The marvellous gallantry of the Irishmen, and in par- ticular the Inniskillings, before and after their terrible losses, will never be forgotten.
TOF OF RAILWAY HILL, COLF.NSO
95
Many of the gallant Irishmen are buried at the foot of the hill, and several obelisks have been erected to their memory. The topmost trench on this field en- tombs many Boers.
From the summit of Hart's Hill a splendid view is obtained. Opposite is the Monte Cristo Range and the HIangwane Slopes from which our artillery covered the assaulting forces. On the right hand is the Colenso Plain, the winding Tugela, and in the background the fantastic Drakensberg. Immediately on the left hand are the other two hills, " Railway " and " Pieter's," forming the trinity which l)arrcd the outer gate of the beleaguered town. Turning round and looking towards Ladysniith, Sheba's Breasts, Groblaars and Doom Kloof Ranges are on the left, while across the tremen- ilous plain below, the great Umbulwaiia dominates its compeers.
RAILWAY HILL A.ND PIETER'S HILL, together with H.\RT'S, were the three chief physical characters ill the closing scenes of the immortal drama which had held the whole world spellbound for one hundred and nineteen days.
The grand finale, the Pieter's fight, is thus strikingly epitomised in " Words by an eye-witness," by " Lines- man,"— a clever and readable book:
■'The bombardment and storming of Pieter's Hill is a story ,i£ itself. \ story of 95 heavy guns thundering lyddite and shrapnel on to crowded trenches ; of the roar and rattle of 30,000 rifles, and of thirty maxims : of brave Boers who stood up like men in the infernal hail, and braver Britons who rushed and cheered, and slew and spared as their fathers had done before them ; of .terrified men on ponies, flying, and fighting with one another for a way from the pursuing peril behind ; and eventually of silence, and the almost whispered words — ' The job is done at last, I.adysmith is relieved ! ' "
SPION KOP AND VAAL KRAXTZ (dealt with at pages 115-118) are about twenty miles away, and per- sons requiring to visit these battlehills as part of their Colenso tour, will find every posting facility at the hotel, but it should be stated that the route most favoured is the one via Ladysmith.
THE HILLS TOWARDS GROBELAARS ; THE PICTURESQUE FALLS, AND THE VALLEY OF THE TUGEL.\ should, if possible, be visited, being so intimately connected with the operations during the fourteen days preceding the entry into Ladysmith. The railway' passes through this area. — See the following chapter.
96
CHAPTER IV.
FROM COLEXSO TO LADYSMITH. VIA THE VALLEY OF THE TUGELA AND THE PIETERS HEIGHTS.
THE train journey from Colenso to Ladysmith, is, perhaps, the most interesting of any in Africa, not simply for its splendid woodland, mountain, and river scenery, or for the demonstration of engineering skill in surmounting the rugged country between the two historic places, but for this, that the ground could tell a thousand tales of heroism, of gallantry, of fortitude, of an inflexible determination to conquer, tempered with the attributes of mercy and forbearance in the hour of victory, such as was never more transcendent in the history of the Nation.
NEW RAILWAY BRIDGE AT COLENSO (fROM FORT WYLIE)
Thundering over the Tugela. and past Fort Wylie. which watches over the muddy swirling stream, numbers of schanzes will be obser\^ed running up the hills on the left. On the right is the continuation of Hlangwane, and presently the Monte Cristo range comes in view, while on each side of the line many graves — generously up-kept by the Railway Department— will be noticed. What a sad trail conflict leaves behind ! Almost every hill is covered with these schanzes, marking the precipitous course of General Buller's tinal attacks. Farther on we espj' the boulder-blocked river, and the smaller falls at the confluence of the Onderbrook Spruit. Grobelaars is to the left, and Sheba's Breasts — sometimes called the sugar-loaves — and Hart's Hill are close together.
97
H
I'OM-I'OM 1!KI1)(,I-, CIUINSO
The latter hill is distinguished by an obelisk on its summit. The next notable feature is the small iron structure across the Langervvachtc Spruit, known both as Pom-pom Bridge and the " Bridge of Death." The intrepid Irishmen had to cross this bridge in single file in order to assault Hart's Hill. In doing so they were e.\posed to a murderous fire,
TUGELA lALI.S COLENSO
98
and some sixty were shot during the passage : yet not a man wavered but looked death unflinchingly in the face. On the other side of the Spruit, Fort Molyneux appears. This was vacated during the earlier stages of the invasion.
The train then rises slowly towards HART'S HILL, where a staff station has been estabhshed. The line is very steep at this point, and ample opportunity is afforded for viewing the historic surroundings. Almost within line of this hill are the larger and more cele- brated Falls. A few hundred yards on the Colenso side of these is the site of the Boer railway-sleeper bridge by which the enemy was able to man and fortify the well-nigh impregnable hills, before, and retreated upon, the British advance. About the same distance on the Ladysmith side of the falls, was laid the second pontoon bridge over which our forces were crossed to attack the PIETER'S HEIGHTS.
The line skirts the foot of the famous hill (Hart's), and the burial ground of the officers and men of the Irish Brigade (principally Inniskillings) who fell on the 23rd Februar\', 1900, is indicated by a monument at the head of a long stone-walled grave, while quite close to the rails is the resting place of some of the Dublin Fusiliers and others, marked by a large tombstone.
To the right of Hart's Hill is Railway Hill, and on the opposite side of the railway is the last conquered hill of all — Pieters. Towering at the back of the last- named is the romantic looking Eagle's Nest (Aasvogel's Kloof).
In passing onwards an exquisite view of the valle\' ot the Tugela, along which our forces worked to storm the difficult steeps, opens out. It is a bold and peculiarly beautiful piece of country-, and the sight of it alone would invoke feelings of unalloyed affection and un- stinted admiration for our hero " Thomas Atkins " and his beloved and faithful leader, gallant Sir Redvers Buller.
mi
1
iv-;^irx,
PIETERS is the next station. There is no hotel in I 1 the district, and as all the
AtlUuile - - - J .33!) I eel , . , . , .,, • , ,
Disiance ■ - Moi imia I historic lulls, With the ex-
m Single, 451- Return. 117 ;G. \ ception of the oue named
jm „ 0/- — „ 4:,i. after it, are situate
nearer Colenso, the latter place is made the centre for
visiting the various scenes. Another method, however, is to take a morning train from Ladysmith to Pieters,
4 -'
99
and walk over the battle grouiuls of Colcnso, returning from either station as mav suit the convenience of the tourist.
The rail-road run from Pieters to Ladysmith is on a downward grade. The train swings along at a rattling pace, and the open country is soon o\ertaken. The Tugela heights are
■1
A.\S\UUl.Li> KLUOl , .M.Al, ilLlLK.s
100
Altitude - ■ - 3.230 /tet
Distance - ■ - 184% miles
Fares;
1st Single, Ml- Return. 69-
2nd „ 3018 „ 461-
left behind, and in the distance several of the im- posing Biggarsberg Mountains stand out in stern rehef. ^leahe patches, and kraals, and happv, veiling, deshahillf Kafirs are rapidly passed, and
UMBULWANA Station is reached. It is not
necessary to introduce the huge flat-topped mountain on the right, nor the winding stream at its base. Who has not heard of Umbulvvana and the Klip River ? How unconcerned thev look to-day, and yet what recollections thev bring of yester years I The train sinuates along the banks of the river, with the giant mound ever above, until, passing bj- the spot of the famous dam where the rotting sand-bags will remain for many a day. upon the right, under the l)ier-like bulk of Umbulwana. a large square plot of ground with deep lines of headstones and crosses will be sighted. This is the " Intombi " (Indomba) Ceme- tery. Umbulwana, Lombard's Kop. and Gun Hill now come in view, and on the left is the historic range of hills — Caesar's Camp and Wagon Hill — with the embattled Drakensberg presiding sombrely over all. In the extreme right distance is the Biggarsberg Range, and flanking the train for several miles is a great, grassy plain. Presently the train crosses over the River Klip, and immediately enters the most notable railway station in British history — Lady- smith.
ItJ
tf.
CHAPTER V
T
HISTORIC L.ADYSMITH.
HIS world-famous town is situated upon the banks of the River Klip, and within an ir- regular circle of hills. 30 miles from the Drakensberg. It was established in 185 1, and is the third largest town in the Colony, Its population is 2,800 Europeans, 1,170 In- dians, i,46() Kafirs, and its properties are valued at £273,720, ujion whicli a rate of 3d, in the pound is levied.
THE TOWN
AHiludc - . - 3.2X4 feel
Distance . - - IS9^ milts
Isl Single. 4T,6. Return. 7113. 2nd .. 3IIS. .. 4711.
Kl.lF KIVKK. I.AIIYSMHH
The streets are laid in the usual Dutch fashion. Murchison Street, the trunk road, gives access to the chief buildings and other centres of interest. There is a market- place, a portion of which is used as a recreation ground, and adjoining this, is a Pavilion. The public buildings of note are, the Town Hall — erected in 1894, at a cost of {5,000—
Court House, Post Office, Library and Reading Room, the churches allotted to the several denomi- nations. Government and other Schools, three good hotels — the "Royal," "Crown," and "Railway" — and a Sanatorium. Another important institution is the Convent on the hill overlooking the railway station. This was used for some time by the Military as their headquarters during the Siege, and also by General Buller after the Relief. The town is well supplied with water from the Khp River, and is healthy, though somewhat hot in summer. The death rate under ordinary conditions is low, lo per 1,000. In 1897 the town was selected for garrison purposes, and a camp, locally known as " Tin Town," with accommodation for 3,000 troops and three batteries of artillery, was fixed about two miles outside the town, near the waterworks.
The district is jjrincipallv agricultural, but being the junction for Harrismith and the Orange River Colony (see pages 212 — 220) as well as an important Locomotive centre. Railway employes account for a good proportion of the town's population.
Ladysmith is the post-cart town for Dewdrop, Acton Homes, and Upper Tugela. The service is a tri-weekly one (Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays), and the fares are ys. bd., los. and I5.s-. respectively.
In passing through this quiet place, it is difficult to realize that it is the town which so valiantly suffered the numberless privations, and all the ghastly ills of a protracted siege. Had it fallen with its 10.000 combatants, 73 guns, and a million pounds worth of stores, how appalling would have been the consequence ! As a celebrated writer says, the interest of the world, possibly the destiny of the Empire were centred upon it during the long and un- certain one hundred and nineteen days. But Lady- smith triumphed, and a thrill of relief, thankfulness and joy, such as generations had not known, coursed through the frame of every Britisher throughout the habitable globe. All honour to Sir George White, his able lieutenants, and magnificent men.
The historic hills and sites, and the various inci- dents connected therewith, are described in the next chapter, but a few succinct particulars of the heavj^ and melancholy toll incurred by the resolute braves in keeping the flag flying will be interesting :
THE SIEGE
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The bombardment commenced at 5.30 a.m. on the 30th October, i8og. The town was cut off on NovcmlHT 2nd, iSoo. and was relieved on tlie night of the jStli February, 1900, the formal entry being made tlie ne.\t day. Marcli 1st.
The total losses of the Relieving Column were about 5,160 killed, wounded, prisoners and missing. In addition 10 guns were cajitured by the enemy at Colenso. The Irishmen were particular sufferers. The Inniskillings lost 400 men out of a total of 600 in storming the the Hart's Hill i)ortion of the Pieter's Heights, the Connaught Rangers 150, and the Dublin Fusiliers loo. The last-named regiment had already lost heavily, and only 5 otftcers and 40 per cent, ot its original strength marched into Lad\'smith.
The ravages of disease and death were terrible. The strength of the garrison, which at the time of the investment is given as 13.496 effectives, and 249 sick and wounded, was not more than 10,164 effectives, with 2.778 sick and wounded, when relief came. No fewer than 10, 688 men were admitted to hosjjital at different times during the seige. From first to last 270 men were killed in action or died of wounds, 570 were wounded or missing, while 541 died of disease.
The civilian population at the beginning of the siege numbered 2,700 Europeans, 750 Cape Boys, 2,440 Kafirs and 2.470 Indians. Non-combatants were given the option of re- tiring to Intombi Neutral Camji. but they bravely preferred to share the fate of the garrison.
The Boer force around Lacl\smith is j>ut down at not less than from 20.000 to 25,000 men.
An incessant bombardment and two furious assaults were inflicted by the enemy. It is variously estimated that between 13.000 and 16,000 shells were delivered by the Boer Guns. The number of casualties therefrom was comparatively small, only 33 killed and 232 wounded.
The besieged were reduced to eating horse and mule flesh, and to drinking " che\Til " extracted therefrom. They made themselves " delicacies" in the shape of blanc-mange from \iolet jiowder, and brawns and jellies from the heels of mules. At the usual auction held on the 21st February, 1900, the undermentioned prices were obtained for " iu.xuries " ■"
14 lbs. oatmeal . . . . . . . . . . . . 59/6
Till comlensed milk .. .. .. .. .. 10'-
I lb. fat beef 11/-
Tin coffee (i lb.) .. .. .. .. .. 17/-
.\ sucking pig 3-'-
EgRs (per dozen) .. .. .. .. .. 48'-
■ 18/-
.\ fowl
.\ plate of tomatoes
.\ plate of potatoes
.•\ glass of jelly
.■\ dozen boxes matches
A packet of cigarettes. .
50 cigars
\ lb. cake of tobacco . .
i lb. of tobacco
18/
19/-
18/- 13/6
25/- 18=;/-
4.=;/-
6;/-
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SC.iiI.H OF |
U.XTIONS. |
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liigiiiiiiiif; i)f the S'ltjic : |
Day before Relief : |
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Bread \\ lb. or i lb. biscuits. |
Biscuits \ lb. |
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Meat (fresh) li lb, or i lb. pre- |
Mealie Meal, 3 oz. |
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served meat. |
Meat (fresh) \ lb. |
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Coffee I oz . or \ oz. tea. |
Coffee or tea ,', oz. |
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Vegetables (compressed) i oz.. or |
Sugar I oz. |
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A lb. potatoes. |
Salt I oz. |
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Sugar 3 oz. |
Pepper .', oz. |
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Salt \ oz. |
.Mustard ,\, oz |
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Pepper },-, oz. |
\inegar ,', gill. |
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It is but fair to repeat the Royal tribute to the inhabitants who endured the same hardships, disease, and death ; felt the same repeated disappointments ; and manifested the same heroic and praiseworthy determination as the soldiery in the preservation of the prestige of the Empire. The following utterances of H.R.H. the Duke of Cornwall and York, in reply to the address of the people of Ladysmith on the occasion of his visit to Natal in August, 1901, will be treasured in the hearts of all true Colonists :
" From the 2nd November, 1S99, Ladysmith became, day by day, the very centre of interest and anxious concern in the eyes of the whole Empire. Rigorously invested during 118 days, it heroically and with dogged resolve ' kept the flag flying,' and resisted the attacks of the enemy, of hunger, and of disease, while the outside world looked on with breathless suspense, at times hardly daring to hope at the repeated gallant attempts to bring her relief. It was the stubborn defence of that outwork which stayed the advance against the Capital of your Country, and in thanking the people of Ladysmith for their loyal address, I can confidently give expression to the undying gratitude of their fellow-subjects for the noiile manner in which they shared with their brethren in arms the glorious defence of that ever-memorable siege."
STREET SCENE, LADYSMITH
CHAPTER VI.
1H1-: LAUVSMrrii hattlki-hilds, and oiihik spots.
SPIOX KOP AND \'A.\I. KK.\N1'Z.
A NOTE. The most historic of the many hills around Ladysmith are, Umbulwana, Lombard's Kop, Gim Hill, Pepworth's Hill, and Surprise Hill which were occupied by the Boers; and Wagon Hill, Caesar's Camp, Observation Hill, and the hills forming the perimeter of defence, which were in the British possession. There are also of course such spots of particular remembrance as Farquhar's Farm, Nicholson's Nek, Rietfontein, Spion Kop and Vaal Krantz some distance away, and many interior places of mucli note worthy to be visited, as mentioned in detail below.
The fact might be emphasised that visitors will be able to hire conveyances or saddle- ponies, and secure the services of well-informed guides at the several hotels and livery stables in the town.
RIl-^TFONTl'IIN is a farm in the vicinity of Moddei Spruit, about seven miles north of Ladysmith. It is notable on account of Sir George White's important skirmish with the Boers on the 24th October, 1899, four daj's after the battle ot Dundee, and three days after that of Elands Laagte.
The action was ])lanned in order to divert the enemy's attention from the East, and so secure the safety of General Yule's Column retreating from Dtmdee. The manceuvre was entirely successful, and the column, which numbered some four thousand, reached Ladysmith without molestation on the 26th. Our losses in the Rietfontein affair were 16 killed and 102 wounded and missing, out of a force of between four and five thousand men. The Boers, it is stated, lost heavily from our artillery tire.
The Boer .Artillery occujiied Jonono's Kop and Matawana, towering eminences better observed from Elands Laagte. This engagement is sometimes called after the lofty hill Ti.VT.\ Invoni, about three miles to the west of the main road, and sometimes Mopder Spruit.
FAKQrH.\K'S F.^RM, which is to the north-east of the town, will be long present in the mind as the reminder of " Mournful Monday," the 30th October, 1899, the day which immediately preceded the investment.
After the Dundee. Elands Laagte. and Rietfontein fights, operations at Ladysmith lulled until the 27th October, when a reconnaissance was made in force. At night on
BIGGARSBERG
106
BRITISH AND BOER POSITIONS DURING SIEGE OF LADYSMITH.
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the 29th, the whole army moved out in readiness to attack, in the early hours of the following morn- ing, the Boer position, which covered some seven or eight miles with " kopjes like chains of for- tresses " — for by this time the Boers from the north, and the Free Staters from the west had settled, or were settling them- selves and their powerful artillery, on the pick of the heights com- manding the town. Two infantrv battalions with a mounted battery were detailed for isolated opera- tion on the extreme left, and their fate is recorded hereafter.
The result of this battle of Farquhar's Farm, or Lombard's Kop as it is officially set down, is well known. Our troops could gain little advantage, our flanks were endangered, our artillery was inferior in weight and dis- tance. It was feasible for the Dutch to turn the attack, and with the overwhelming aid of their 96-pounders and other heavy cannon, rush the town through our front, or detach a portion on their extreme right to join other incoming commandoes, outflank us, and effectually cut off our re- treat. General \\'hite had there- fore no other option than to retire upon the town, and bow to the inevitable. This he did, but under a scathing fire, and but for the gallantry of the 13th and 53rd batteries in operating at a mur- deiously short range during the withdrawal of the infantry, and the timely, almost providential, arrival by train of Captain Lamb- ton and his men with the naval guns, and the immediate silencing of the big Creusot on Pepworth's Hill the issue would have been
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107
much more calamitous, wounded.
A? it was. our losses approximated some 60 killed and 240
NICHOl.SCJ.N'S NKK. Fhi? disaster was the clima.x to an ill-omened day. Colonel Carleton and his little force of Gloucesters, Royal Irish Fusiliers, and Mountain Battery, roughly twelve hundred men. and half a dozen guns, were to occupy Nicholson's Xek, about si.\ miles north-west of Ladjsmith. to prevent the Free State men from joining the Boer main force and thus threatening General White's left wing. The men marched out cheerily enough on the evening of the 29th, and all went well en route. The Nek was reached, the hour was very early and pitch dark. Suddenly some boulders were rolled down from one of the hills, shots were fired, and several horsemen burst through our men and disappeared. The mules with the ammunition wagons reared with fright, and 'ii their unmanageable fury, broke from their leaders. The panic quickly sjiread. all the other mules did likewise, and the whole of the maddened animals dashed through the column. Confusion was rampant. The men fi.xed their
108
bayonets and carried the hill. But the mules had fled, and the reserve ammunition and several of the mountain guns were gone. The rest is known. The morning faced the force with its real posi- tion. Yet, undaunted, the men fought to their last cartridges, hoping against hope that General White had won his battle, which would bring the relief that had been promised them. Then some- one without authority raised a white flag — who, it will perhaps never be known. Officers and men, it is reported, cursed the day they were born, broke their swords, sobbed with rage — it was a fear- ful catastrophe — they had rather died ! But the deed was done, and 970 officers and men and three guns fell into the enemy's hands. A number of the men es- caped and found their way back to Ladysmith. The wounded and dead (the former being given up by the Boers) totalled more than a hundred. According to Sir George White's despatch, the total losses on this melancholy day amounted to 6 officers and 63 non-commissioned officers and men killed, 10 officers and 239 non-commissioned officers and men wounded, in addition to the above-mentioned "missing." This was the end of " Mournful Mon- day" and Ladysmith was l^e- sieged.
UMBULWANA is four miles out, and much visited for its ex- cellent view of the British posi- tions, the several battle grounds, the emplacements of the famous " Long Tom" and other similar guns, the Site of the Gre.\t Dam, and the Indomba Neutr.\i, C.\mp
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—the cemetery marking the latter. LOMBARD'S KOP and GUN HILL are the neigh- bours of 'Bulvvana, and are eminent as the ele\-ations upon which the Boer heavy cannon were placed.
GUN HILL is of esjjecial interest as the objective of the midnight sortie on the yth December. iSqq. and the destruction of two of the enemy's big guns, a 6-inch Creusot and a howitzer. This meritorious exploit was executed b\- 6oo Natal and Imperial Light Horse Volunteers under General Hunter, without a man being lost.
SURPRISE HILL, which is situated to the west of Pcpworth's Hill— both of which were in the Boer occupation — was the scene of a similar raid to the one on Gun Hill. this time by five companies of the 2nd Rifle Brigade under Colonel Metcalfe on the loth December. 1890. The gun to be desjiatched was a 4.7 howitzer, but owing to a defective fuse, its disunion was painfully long. The Boers had meantime discovered the raiders and a sharp encounter ensued, the Rifle Brigade suffering a loss of 15 dead, and 50 wounded and prisoners. But the purpo.se. though expensive, was achieved. The Boers admitted over a hundred casualties on their side.
OBSERVATION" HILL and HELPMAKAAR HILL. Simultaneously with the prodigious attack on ( .xsar's Camp and Wagon Hill on the 6th January, iqoo, the Dutch also made an assault upon our northern and eastern positions. Observation Hill and Help- makaar Hill. The attack uiron the latter was artificial, while the Dutch vigorously stormed the northern hill. They were repulsed and lost, besides their Commandant, some 50 men.
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As its name denotes, Observation Hill is one of the best eminences for a complete survey of the historic country, in which connection the DISPOSITION OF THE HEAVIER OF THE DEFENDING AND BOMBARDING CANNON may be given:
(The outer and inner lines of the British defence are shewn on the Ladysmith Map.) The heavy gims which we had to reply to the enemy's magnificent artillery, were two
I.ADYSMITIl, I-ROM W A(iON 1111. L
naval guns. 4.7. placed lirst in the Cove Redoubt, then on Tunnel Hill, and after the he- f;inning of January, on Wagon Hill : four long-range naval 12 pounders, one on Csesar's Camp and the other on Gordon Hill : and two ancient howitzers.
The Boers had two 4.7 howitzers and an eight-miie-range Creusot of 6-inch calibre on Pe])worth's Hill, two 4.7 howitzers on Surprise Hill, a 6-inch Creusot and a 4.7 inch howitzer on Gun Hill, similar guns on Umhulwana, while on Middle Hill another heavy weight appeared, and on Telegraph Ridge there were two 5-inch guns. Field and Maxim jiieces which also exchanged dcadh- repartees, are not included. The enemy's guns were of course duly christened by the facetious " Mr. .Atkins." and the no less facetious " Jack," directly they disclosed themselves and their ])eculiarities. " Long Tom." "Puffing Billy." "Silent Susan," "Nasty Knox." "Fiddling Jimmy." "Weary Willie," " Gentleman Joe." " The Stinker," and the " Medler," have each a history of their own. Our two naval 4.7's, revelled respectively in the nicknames of " Bloody Mary " and " Lady Anne," and the two 6.3 inch muzzle-loaders. 25 years old. rejoiced in the classical distinction of " Castor " and " Pollux."
Effective and substantial redoubts, cannon-protections, sangars, and sham embrasures, were constructed on the several hills and arc of interest.
"Ci^SAR'S CAMP" AND \\A( .ON HILL are resi)ectively the eastern and western portions of a ridge a few miles south of Lad>smith. Looking from these hills our com plete perimeter of fourteen miles, which followed Maiden's Castle, Highlander's Post, Range Post, Rifleman's Post, King's Post, Cove Redoubt, Observation Hill, Gloucester's Post, Cemetery Hill, Helpmakaar Hill (Devonshire Hill), can be traced. From these eminences too, a good jjanoramic survey of the town may be taken. Bulwana, Lom- bard's Kop, and Gun Hill rise grimly on the right, and in the far view Umkolumba Mountain, the British Heliograph Station during the siege, is discerned. On the reverse side of the ridge, detached hills and great ])lains will be noticed. The noted Bester's Farm, Spion Kop, and other hills can also be detected.
This famous ridge was the ke>- to the I-5ritish position, and the Boers made two deter- mined assaults upon it, the first on the ()th November, 1899, and the second on the 6th
January, 1900. Both were repulsed, however, and the latter ranks as one of the most illustrious fights of modern times.
After being repelled on tlie first-named date, the enemy was content to wait, and watch, and bombard tor nearly two months. Bui at the beginning of January, 1900, he was, apparently, inspired to think that if Ladysmith were made to capitulate, he could divide his large besieging force and despatch one por- tion to assist in combating General Buller's augmented forces on the line of the Tugela, and the other to the strengthening of his western army, while a large portion of his heavy cannon could be apportioned to Kimberley and Mafeking, and with the surrender of these three important strategic towns, would not the Cape Dutch rise in rebellion, and then would not the Verkleur float from the Zambesi to Cape Agulhas ? Hence the sound of the Dutchmen's hymns at midnight on the 5th ; hence the false answer to our sentry's challenge at two the following morning, and the enemy in possession of half the ridge at dawn of that da\^ ; hence the loss and recapture of our very gun-pits time after time ; hence the equal sanguinary struggle, hand to hand, hour after hour, from end to end of the ridge throughout the burning day ; hence, we might almost say, the awful flashing cannonade of the heavens, and the lashing hailstorm in the afternoon at four, and after that, the scattering of the enemy from Cssar's Camp ; and then at six, the magnificent charge of the Devons to the southern edge of Wagon Hill (upon which, as it has been truly said, the fate of the garrison, perhaps of the Empire, swung for the moment in the balance) sweeping the Boers like chaff before the wind in unutterable confusion ; and at last, after fifteen hours continuous fighting through mist and darkness, scorching heat and blinding hail and rain, foodless, parched, exhausted — Victory !
The losses were considerable on our side, numbering 18 officers and 189 men killed or mortally wounded, 29 officers and 262 men more or less severely wounded, and 2 missing, a total of 500 ; and the enem\- are said to have suffered to the extent of twice this number. Every foot of the ridge from east to west is historic, while there are several obelisks, cairns, and graves to remind us of the fierce, Titanic struggle. The fortifications and breastworks are also still un- disturbed.
. 1 . ..' *■_«¥.
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The 6th of January, 1900, should be inchided in every calendar as the date marking one of the most brilliantly successful efforts of British arms. The Nation owes a deep debt of gratitude to the inestimably brav-e, dogged men who saved her from humiliation and incalculable loss on this memorable day. The Devons, Man- chcsters, Gordons, 2nd Kille P>rigade, and that fine Volunteer Mounted Corps, the Imperial Light Horse, suffered most heavily, and both they and the 42nd and 53rd batteries, as well as all the other troops engaged, will ever be highly held in honourable and grateful remembrance.
Conspicuous amongst the gallant officers who fell were. Col. Dick Cunyngham, Major Miller Wallnutt of the Gordons, Majors Mackworth and Bowen of the King's Royal Rifles, Lord Ava, Staff Attache, Lieuts. Digby-Jones and Dennis of the Royal Engineers, Capt. Lafone of the Devons, and Lieuts. Adams and Packman of the Imi)erial Light Horse. The behaviour of this latter famous Johannesburg Corps, which General Ian Hamilton, the officer in command of the operations, admitted to be the backbone of the defence on Wagon Hill, is one of the proudest recollections of the day. At the finish, ten officers were kors de combat, and but one hundred men could be mustered out of 500.
>>4
SPION KOP. In the year 1837 from the hills of Intabamnyama, a large company of " trekking " Boers gazed longingly upon the fair face of Natal, for their desire was Peace. From these same heights sixty-three years later, several thousands of the same brave but misguided race, crouched behind big boulders, and concealed themselves in long narrow burrows, and their accomplished wish was War.
Spion Kop, or Intabamnyama, is about 18 miles from Ladysmith on the Acton Homes and Upper Tugela Roads. The journey can be performed by conveyance in three hours, and affords an enjoyable and in-teresting drive. Wagon Hill, Ctesar's Camp, Bulwana, and other notable eminences are retained in view for several miles, while the Drakensberg and its famous passes keep always in sight. With the exception of a few insignificant drifts, the route lies across the Great Plain — a huge ant-heap-sprinkled table-land, incised by spruits, and here and there relieved by mealie plots and their dusky proprietors.
Spion Kop proper (whose summit is nearly 5,000 feet above the sea and about 1,500 feet from the plain below), is composed of two peaks which predominate and rise from the ridge Intabamnyama — a long lofty plateau whose projecting spurs (two of which were the noted Bastion Hill and Three-Tree Hill), exposed our men to a terribly searching fire from several different directions. From the top of the ridge the whole historic country can be scanned. Looking towards the tortuous Tugela, the three drifts over which our troops were crossed — Potgieter's, Trichardt's and Munger's ; Mount Alice and Zwaartkop where the naval and other guns were placed ; Spearman's Farm where our forces were encamped before and after Spion Kop and Vaal Krantz ; and the routes of advance, the direction of the various attacks (from the i6th to the 25th January, 1900), and the gigantic retirement across the river again (by the 37th) of over 20,000 men, horses, guns, and stores without the loss of a man, can all be pointed out.
The second assault upon the Boer stronghold, and the second reverse, is a matter of sorrowful history. The black, drizzling night of the 23rd of January', 1900, saw 1,800 men under General Woodgate scrambling stealthily, silently, up the precipitous sides of Intabamnyama. The early hours of the 24th saw them reach the misty top, heard the challenge of the Boers, and the wild cheer which told that the summit was won. Then the waiting for the dawn and its heartbreaking revelations — our coverless position and but half the ridge in our possession. After that, the gallant rushes to secure the northern end ; the splendid capture of the eastern spur ; the withering, true, incessant hail of
SPION KOP (intabamnyama)
'15
shot and shell ; trenches taken, trenches lost ; 3.000 reinforcements packed like herrings on a cramped plateau — more the easy to decimate: the General laid low with a mortal wound; disablement, dismemberment, death, while the minutes passed away: Britisii guns of little service ; the enemy speeding shells sometimes at the rate of seven a minute ; stones and grass dripjiing with blood — in all a scene of unparalleled gniesomeness. Yet the magnificent men. commanderless, scorched by a pitiless sun, shot, dissected, maintained their ground. Noon, and no cessation of the struggle : night, and the position was ours. Was ever bravery more pronounced, endurance more tried, sacrifice more woful, victor}' more near ? But with the darkness came the counting of the toll, the reckoning of the situation. Could the hill be held to-morrow ? Would the cost be as terrible as to-day ? Without food, water, guns. General, with fast ekeing strength.- although quite ready to stay, to fight, and to die, — the haggard heroes groped and tottered down the steep and slippery slopes to the main army, and when the morning mists dispersed, the enemy, who too had made ready to flee, found but the wounded and the dead. The stalwarts were gone. The Ladysmith key had been turned in the lock, but the gate had not been opened.
During that day our wounded were recovered, and the dead interred in a horse-shoe trench on Intabamnxama, at least 200 bodies and some sav more, and the wounded totalled
SpIou Kop Sliewmcj^ Monumeiih ^ And Graves ■
Monumenl" Spiou Kop.
Monument folmperidl light Infdnlrr. Spion Kop
116
THE PEAKS, bPION KOP
tully another 500. The Boers confessed to having their ranks depleted of 50 killed and 150 wounded.
Of the troops engaged, those who suffered most heavily were the Lancashire Fusiliers, Royal Lancasters, Thorneycroft's Mounted Infantrj-, Imperial Light Infantry, Scottish Rifles, King's Royal Rifles, the Middlesex, and the Dorsets.
The total British casualties during the week from the 17th to the 24th (including Spion Kop) numbered 36 officers and 328 men killed or died of wounds, 47 officers and 1,009 men wounded. 4 officers and 314 men missing and prisoners, a total of 1.738.
There are three monuments on Spion Kop erected in honour of the dead. A twisted iron cross shews the spot where the courageous Major-General W'oodgate fell mortally wounded.
VAAL KRAXTZ. the scene of the third valiant, but unsuccesstul attempt to secure an entrance to Ladysmith. is a rocky ridge standing between the Doom Kloof and Spion Kop Ranges, to the south-east of the latter. It is passed in the distance on the way to Spion Kop.
With the accession of artillery, guns of greater calibre, and an additiona' 3,000 men, General Buller, with the heavy long-range cannon still upon Mount Alice, and other naval and mountain guns upon Zwaartkop — a commanding eminence in advance and to the right of Mount Alice — made a brilliant feint against Br.\kfoxtei\, situate between Spion Kop and Vaal Krantz,with the intention of putting the enemy off his guard upon the latter, and then by throwing the full British strength against the ridge win a way between the two greater ranges named. \'aal Krantz was gained, but unfortunately it was dis- covered to be valueless without the possession of Doom Kloof, the loftiest range along the Tugela line, to storm which would have endangered the life and limb of thousands of
men. The ridge was therefore abandoned, a general withdrawal was once more made across the fateful river, and the troops returned to the Springfield and Chieveley Camps pending the final advance via the Boer extreme left flank at Colenso. which after all was the weakest point of their elaborate and elastic defence extending some twenty miles from end to end. But this third essay, though disheartening to hungry and disease-ridden Ladysmith, was strategically im])ortant, having retained the whole of the eastern Boer force actively engaged whUe Lord Roberts was launching his army against the western foe.
The movements which commenced on the 4th February, and terminated after the capture of the \'aal Krantz ridge on the 7th. were cleverly executed and jiroduced one of the most furious cannonading concerts during the campaign — our contribution, a chorus of 72 voices ; several admirable ba}onet charges, and extravagantly cool behaviour at extremely critical times. The total casualties on our side amounted to 33 fatal, 336 wounded, and 5 missing, while the Boer loss would be very great in killed alone, as it is said that no fewer than 5,000 projectiles were hurled against their positions.
The other points of interest in and around Lad\smitli are of course the IIXTTLEFIELDS of PIETERS and COLENSO; the CAVES on the banks of the KLIP K1\ER, in which the townsfolk and others took up temporary residence during the bombardment; and the TOWN CEMETERY, where numbers of those who died during the siege now repose — the brilliant author and journalist, G. W. Steevens ; the young and gallant Earl of Ava ; Col. Scott-Chisholme. the well-beloved : Naval Lt. Egerton. the imperturb- able and brave, and many others distinguished both in and out of battle.
LADYSMITH TOWN CEMETERY, LORD .\V.\'s AND (i. W. STEEVENS' GRAVES IN FOREGROUND
INDOMBA CEMETERY and TIN TOWN CAMP, a tew miles out, but in opposite directions, have many visitors, while the hills not specially described which formed our perimeter of defence, and those occupied by the enemy and their big guns, as well as SIR GEORGE WHITE'S HEADQUARTERS, the ANGLICAN CHURCH, TOWN HALL, ROYAL HOTEL, and other structures which suffered damage to a lesser or greater extent during the bombardment, all share the tourist's attention.
Fl^OM
CHAPTER VII.
LADYSMITH TO GLENCOE JUNCTION AND THE DUNDEE DISTRICT.
THROUGH THE SCENES OF THE FIRST BATTLES.
THE e.xit by rail from Ladysmith m a northerly direction is even more acute than from Maritzburg, and the journey beyond the historic town loses but little of the interest attaching to pre\'ious districts. Almost every knoll and hill and mountain has a history, almost every acre has received the pressure of besieger and besieged, pursuer and pursued.
119
Between Ladysniitli and Elands Laagte.we can review many of the kopjes and krantzes held l)y Briton and Boer during the investment.
MODDER SPKUIT Station, which was left us as a legacy by the enemy on iheir hurried
departure, gives the site ol the Hoofd Laager, Joubert's
Altitude - J..5!*' jttt
Diitancc - - -191 milts 1 main encampment dunng the Siege. Kietfontein and
lit singit, 49:9. kttiim.74is. Farquhar's Farms, the scenes of the engagements on the
24th and 30th October. iSqq, are within a few miles radius
of this station, while Tinta Inyoni and Pcpworth's Hills, the enemy's respective positions
on those occasions, can be seen. There is no hotel at Modder Spruit.
COLLIERIES AT KLANDS LAAGTK, JONONO S KOP IN liACKClKOlND
Allitttde ■ . i.liU jtti
Distance . . J'J3{ miles
Fames:
Isl StKzl'. SI 16. Return. 7T3.
2nd „ 3114. ,. Sie.
ELANDS LAAGTE is the beginning of the coal country, and is bleak and black. Oppo- site is a well-built hotel : to the left of the station will be noticed the headgear of an important mine, and behind it stands Jonono's Kop — formerly in the Bt)cr possession and afterwards in ours, mainly for signalling purposes .-^bout a mile to the right will be seen an insignificant-looking ridge, to the immediate north of which is another tall conical hill. These hills and the plain below formed the fighting ground of the decisive battle on the 21st October. 1899. the day after the action at Talana. The storming of this ridge was one of the grandest achievements of the Campaign. How graphically the clima.x is given us by the late G. W. Steevens :
Fi.\ Bayonets ! Staff officers rushed shouting from the rear, imploring, cajoling, cursing, sUimming every man who could move into the line. Line — but it was a line no longer. It was a surging wave of men. Devonsand Gordons, Manchesters and flight Horse all mixed, inextricably ; subalterns commanding regiments, soldiers yelling advice, officers tiring carbines, stumbling, leaping, killing, falling, all drunk with battle, shoving through hell to the throat of the enemy. .Xnd there, beneath our feet was the Boer camp and the last Boers galloping out of it. * * * • Cease fire !
It was over — twelve hours of march, of reconnaissance, of waiting, of preparation, and half an hour of attack. But half an hour crammed with the life of half a lifetime."
It was a wonderful victory. The Gordons and the Light Horse lost most heavily, and their dead are buried at the foot of the ridge.
Many prominent Boers fell into our hands, wounded and otherwise — Doctor Coster, State Attorney ; General Koch and his son. Judge Koch ; Commandant Pretorius ; and Colonel Schiel, the German .\rtillerist. The first two were mortallv wounded.
120
The operations were commanded by General French, and the British force comprised some 3,000 men. The enemy's strength was about the same as our own. Our losses were 6i killed or died of wounds, 193 wounded, and 4 missing. The 5th Lancers did remarkable execution, this being the only occasion on which the lance was used through- out the war proper.
The hills must be visited to conceive the unique strength of the Boer position. It is one of the finest natural battle grounds imaginable. The ridge recedes in slopes and broad plateaux, and as a last resource there is a nek communicating with the dominating kop.
The district of Elands Laagte will afford great interest to the tourist, and the altitude is a guarantee of healthiness.
Every facility for visiting the battlefields and other attractions in the vicinity can be obtained at the hotel.
Before leaving Elands Laagte, a note should be made of the fact that the original station buildings were burned to the ground by the Boers on their evacuation. Fortunately, owing to the rapidity of General Buller's " clearing " movements, the station premises farther north could not be similarly treated.
Altitude - - - 3.n0 feel
Distance - - - 214 miles
Fares:
1st Single. 5316. Return, 8013.
2nl .. 3518. „ 53IG.
GRAVES, ELANDS LAAGTE BATTLEFIELD
WESSEL'S NEK is about four miles on the north side of the Sunday's River— a loco- motive water-taking point — to the left of which Mata- wana. already mentioned. wiU be perceived.
There are several coal mines in the vicinity of Wessel's Nek, but otherwise the place is not remarkable.
WASCHBANK, the next station, is of a little greater distinction. The Biggarsberg
range of mountains crosses the railway line at right angles some distance ahead. Indumeni. the chief peak. 7.200 feet high, is detected on the right, and Hlatikulu. another noted eminence, can also be descried lifting its head above the Coal mining and farming are in operation. An hotel \\i\\ be found close to the
Aliunde - - - 3.526 feel
Distance - - - 2l8h mites
Fares :
1st Single, 5416. Return. 8119.
2nd „ 3614. „ 5416.
rest, station.
.'.^ ^TX" •'-
MAIN STREET, DINDKE
The country between Waschbank and Giencou Junction is prettier, and in summer time the yellow blossom of the mimosa trees imparts a bright and agreeable piquancy to the severe undulations of the landscape. GLENCOE JUNCTION is one of the busiest traffic points on the system, and the
■— — — bulk of the Colony's export and private consumption coal —
Distanct - . - sji^'mUes souie 36o,ooo tons, and 240,000 tons respectively — passes
1st Single, }?ig. Return, mix. through this station. It is also important as the con-
— '" — ■ ' ' fluence of the Dundee-Vrvheid Branch and the Main
Line, connecting trains being run to suit all the principal passenger trains. Refresh- ments and meals are obtainable at all hours at the w-ell-appointed rooms on the station, and several bedrooms are also available if required.
DUNDEE BRANCH AND VRYHEID EXTENSION LINE.
Formerly this branch terminated at the Coalfields, seven and a half miles from the junction. It has now been e.\tended to the Buffalo River (21 miles) and is being carried through to Vryheid (59^ miles from Glencoe). \'ryheid is the most important township in the territory recently annexed to Natal.
The line as far as Dundee does not boast of any scenic beauty, and is fairly level. DUNDEE has a twofold attraction — its large coal mining operations and war con- nections. It is surrounded by hills and, for a colliery centre, is pleasant in appearance.
The European population is roughly 1,500 souls, and in addition there are about 1,200 natives and Indians. In the early part of 1902 it was established a full municipal town with its mayor and councillors. There are a number of good buildings in the town, public and otherwise — four churches (Church of England, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, and Swedish) ; Government School ; Court House ; Postal and Telegraph Offices ; General and Masonic Halls ; branches of two
|
Altitude ■ |
4,09S feet |
||
|
Distance - |
. |
. |
231 miles |
|
Fares: |
|||
|
1st 'iiHgle |
, 5913. |
Retut |
n.SXIII. |
|
2nd „ |
3916. |
•• |
5913. |
122
Banks ; and of course several hotels— the " Royal," " Masonic," and " Victoria." All three, in the same way as other hotels in the battlefield districts ot the Colony, have in- creased their accommodation to meet the requirements of, an anticipated large tourist business. There are the usual Sporting, Literary, Social, and Industrial Clubs, and a large Public Recreation Ground.
Dundee is the headquarters of the Natal Police for the Umsinga and Dundee districts, and 't also possesses a troop of mounted volunteers, a Rifle Association, and Cadet Corps.
A weekly newspaper called the Dundee and District Advertiser has just recently been established.
The town is very healthy, and has a lavish water supply. During the last six years, marred somewhat by the war, it has advanced by leaps and bounds, and is still pro- gressing. Dundee has an assured future. The battlefields, separately described here- after, prove a huge attraction of the place.
COAL jriXE, DUNDEE
TALANA (COALFIELDS) is contiguous to, and lies a little below, Dundee. Here
the various mines are situated, and the debris, piled hill- high, testifies to the activity of the workings. The yearly output from the whole of the Dundee mines is about 200,000 tons.
Altitude - - - 4,044 feet
Distance ~ - - 239 miles
Fares ;
tst Single, 5919. Return, 89IS.
2nd „ 39110. „ S9I9.
The Dundee district is perhaps the finest coal-producing area in South Africa, both in extent and quality. An enormous tract of coal country is still untouched, indeed the deposits seem to be almost inexhaustible. Good ironstone is also known to exist in the neighbourhood.
The railway line after leaving Talana Station passes over Smith's Nek towards the Buffalo River and V'ryheid, and the traveller is borne between the two famous hills. Big Talana, and Little Talana.
123
NONDWENI ROAD and NQITI' ROAD are the first two stations on the Wyheid extension which is now under construction. The former is seven and a half miles from Dundee (Talana), and the latter four miles on the farther side of the Buffalo River.
TO THE Zri.l LAND GOLDFIELDS AND VRYHEID.
The NONDWENI GOLDFIELDS, where the precious mineral is in course of develop- ment with encouraging results, are some 46 miles from Nondweni Road, from which station the post-cart service will probably run on resumption of ordinary conditions. At ])resent the goldfields are reached ri<i Dundee. This small settlement is placed within post and telegraphic communication.
THE DENNY DALTON C.OLDll lil.DS accessible from Dundee are not now working.
KORKE S DRIFT
Murray
RORKES DRIFT and ISANDHLWANA of Zulu War fame, the first of glorious memor\-, and the latter of mourniul recollection, are respectivelj' situated to the south and south-east of Nqutu Station.
VRYHEID is at present reached by post-wagon from Dundee. The railway is being constructed to this town, and before long, direct rail access will be possible. X'ryheid was at one time the cajMtal of the " New Republic," which has now been returned to Natal.
Before the War the white inhabitants numbered 2,400. The town is prettily situated. There are several churches and schools, two hotels, and other useful buildings. The district of which it is the centre is said to be rich in coal and other minerals, including gold, copper, mica, and asbestos. The advent of the railway will soon manifest its resources.
124
THE GREAT BOER WAR.
1899 TO 1900.
DUNDEE was the scene oi the first act in the historic drama, the GREAT BOER WAR, in the theatre of Natal. The prologue may be recited :
The plotting of the Dutch since 1836, for supremacy in South Africa.
Britain's humiliation on Majuba, and concession of self-government to the Boers — 1881.
Secretion by the Dutch of tremendous quantities of munitions of war.
Intolerable treatment of the Uitlanders on the Rand.
Endurance raised to breaking point.
Petition addressed to the late Queen praying for redress. May 24th, 1899.
Conference between Sir Alfred ililner (now Baron Milner) and President Kruger at Bloemfontein — Ma\- 31st to June 5th, 1899. British requirements put forward: five 3'ears' franchise for Uitlanders ; their larger representation in the " Volksraad " ; and the non-exclusion of the English tongue in that House.
Result unsatisfactory.
Diplomatic negotiations prolonged into September.
British note despatched to Mr. Kruger on the 8th of that month demanding the above reforms.
Reply of the Government of the South African Republic received on the i6th, giving an unqualified refusal.
British subjects leave Johannesburg.
Natal Volunteers mobilised September 29th, i88g. Troops ordered from India.
Boer Ultimatum October 9th, demanding withdrawal of British troops within forty- eight hours.
ST. JAMIiSS CHURCH, DINDEE (GENERAL PENN-SYMONS's GRAVE IX FOREGROUND)
British Government reply conditions impossible
of acceptance. British Agent recalled from Pretoria. War inevitable.
Orange Free State combine with South African Reinihlic.
Boers invade British territory October 12th, part through Lang's Nek from Transvaal, part through Drakensberg passes from Orange Free State, part across the Buffalo River from Vrv'heid direction.
Evacuation of northern portion of Xatal. Boers occupy Charlestown. October 13th; New- castle, October 15th, iSqq.
Dundee the first imjiortant objective.
H .
4 -7
THE BATTLE OF TALANA
Before the recent acquisition of the " new territory" the Northern portion of Natal formed a triangle, the base of which was the Biggarsberg range of mountains, and the apex. Charlestown. On the left or western side the Drakensberg range divided Natal from the Orange River Colony, and on the eastern side the Buffalo River separated it from the Transvaal.
At'the time the ultimatum was despatched, at least 20,000 Transvaalers were ready to flow into Natal, one portion via Lang's Nek in the north, and the other across the Buffalo on the east, while a further 10,000 Free Staters possessed the passes of the Drakensberg on the west. This triangle had necessarily to be abandoned, and British encampments were established at Dundee and Ladysmith.
At the commencement of operations in Natal, Sir George White, then Commander-in-Chief, had about 9,000 men and 24 guns at Ladysmith, and the late General Sir William Penn Symons, 4,600 men and 18 guns at Dundee.
The latter town was entirely dependent on the former for ammunition and supplies. In situa- tion it was similar, hollow set, and dominated by high hills.
At sundown on the 19th October, 1899, we wore still waiting for the battle-storm to burst. The enemy had infested the northern territory, there had been a skirmish or two, and a train of supplies had been intercepted at Elands Laagte, but that was all.
126
During the darkness of that night, however, the Boers under Lucns Meyer converged in large numbers, seized Talana which commands the town, placed their big guns in position, and with the break of day announced their presence by dropping a shell into our camp. The first ominous battle-note had sounded — the tragic and historic War had commenced.
WHERE GENERAL SIR WILLIAM PENN-SYMONS FELL
The issue of the dav is mere repetition of a hundred-times-told tale : how the gallant Penn-Symons marshalled his infantry at once for assault, despatched his artillery to reply to the enemj-'s guns, and his cavalry to work round their right flank (and how the i8th Hussars and some mounted infantry were captured). How 2,000 infantrymen — the Dublins, King's Royal Rifles, and Irish Fusiliers — stormed this difficult hill in the face of a fire from 5,000 barrels, sure and merciless : and how, after a magnificent nish, the summit was won, and the enemy put to flight ; and how, lastly, the brave General received a mortal w^ound while directing the attack and emboldening his men by the example of his utter fearlessness and his encouraging words.
Victory was decidedly ours, but profitless — our position was untenable. Ammunition low, the momentary possibility of Ladysmith being cut off, the Boers reorganising in more powerful array with heavier guns. General Yule, who had succeeded Sir W. Penn- Symons, wisely ordered the withdrawal of the inhabitants, and fell back with his force upon the main army at Ladysmith.
The retreating movement was commenced at 9 p.m. on the 22nd via the Biggarsberg, Beith, Waschbank Spruit, and Sunday's River, in all a distance of some 70 miles, and, owing to the skilful direction of Colonel, now General Sir J. G. Dartnell, was successfully accomplished on the 26th October, 1899.
The battle of Talana cost us roughly, 50 killed and 200 wounded, and an additional 200 (Cavalry) surrendered. The Boer loss amounted to about 300. Our wounded, including General Penn-Symons, had to be left in the hands of the enemy, who it is only right to state, treated them with every kindness, and rendered all possible medical aid. The General, sad to relate, passed away on the 25th October, and is buried in St. James's Churchyard.
Dundee was re-occupied by the British on May 15th, 1900.
Talana Hills, Impati, Smith's Nek and plantation, are full of interest to the tourist. Graves and cairns mark the historic spots, and from the crests of either of the big hills,
127
KAFIR CORN'
/.■. ir. Camy
a splondid idea of the configuration of tlit- couiilry is gathered; and tlie impossibility of preventing the Boer encroachments at that time, having regard to their overwhelming numbers and superior armament, is at once ajjparent.
ISANDHLWANA MOINTAIN, ZfLULAND (kAI IR WAR. 1S79)
128
CHAPTER VIII.
FROM GLEXCOE JUNCTION TO CHARLESTOWX.
REJOINING the main line, and passing onwards to Charlestown, the town of Dundee looms clearly in the extreme right distance with Impati and Talana soaring above it. The latter hill is denoted by the plantation at its base. HATTING SPRUIT is a division of the extensive coal-fields. There are large deposits
of this mineral in the locality. A private line, four miles
Altitude - - . -l,2gSfcct ... ,
Distance- - - 23% miles long, branchcs to the right of this istation, runnmg to the
Fakes; I St Single, 3919. Return, S9IS. 2nd „ 39lt0. „ 5919.
Navigation and St. George's Colleries.
DANNHAUSER is the centre of a large stock, agricultural, and coal district. Here
was placed the first of the celebrated blockhouses, fourteen of which were situated in the vicinity of the railway line between this point and the border. At the next station.
Altitude - Distance -
1.429 feet 246 miles Fares ■
1st Single, 61 16. Return, 92/3.
2nd .. 411- „ 6116.
A Ititudc - - - 4.000 1'eet
Distance - - ■ 255 miles
Fares :
Jst Single, 63:9. Return. 95. S.
2nd ,. 4216. .. 6319.
ALCOCK'S SPRUIT, large stone and ballast quarries are located. The stone used in some of the Colony's most important buildings was taken from here.
INGAGANE, the succeeding station, has much to commend it becoming a holiday
resort. It is but eight miles from Newcastle, the climate is particularly fine, and it has adjacent, many places of attrac- tion to the photographer, scientist, and angler. It is also of much historic interest. In comparatively close proximity will be found the defence works constructed during the Boer War of 1881, and the more substantial fortifications built during the recent conflict. The well-known
Altitude ■ - - 3,900 feet
Distance - - -260 mites
Fares;
!st Single. 65!- Return, 97/6.
2nd „ 4314. „ 651-
Tiger's Kloof, is about a mile's walk trom the station facing Rooi Pynt, where some years ago Mr. Rider Haggard, the famous novelist, resided. The line of the great Drakensberg terminating in the notorious peaks of Inkwelo. Majuba, and Pogwana forms a beautiful view.
\ \ I I \ 1 K K \ \ I -
i2g
L
AllitiiJt ■ ■ . 3.893 1'cel
Diilance - - - 2M} mi/«
Fakks :
1st Single. Sli- Rttum. 100:6.
2tui „ 44l8. ., 67l-
Ingagane is also a considerable Kafir district, and the native may be studied in his dual states — christianised and " raw " — to an unlimited extent. An hotel will be lound some distance from the station. Good coal is being worked a few miles away.
NEWCASTLE on the Incandu is a municipal town, and from a picturesque and resi- dential standpoint, one of the nicest in the Colony, the climate being most invigorating. The population is about 1,000 Europeans, and a similar number ol " coloureds." The rateable value of the propertv in the borough at the imie ol writing was over /20o,ooo ; the general rate was twopence, and the water rate one halfpenny in the pound. The streets are well kept, the sanitary arrange- ments are satisfactory, and the water supply is unfailing and excellent. New- castle possesses a Town Hall with clock and chimes, and the usual offices, ante- rooms, and general conveniences. The main hall will hold fulh 500 people. This structure, which was erected at a cost of £'6,000 to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee, was opened !in July, 1899. There are many strongly- built good-looking buildings, and accommodation for visitors is met bj- three comfortable hotels and several boarding houses. The principal Societies and Institutions are : the Agricultural Society, Library and Reading Room, Literarj- and Dramatic Society, Masonic and other lodges, several S])orting Clubs, and a Rifle Association. The Church of South Africa, Roman Catholic, Wesleyan, Presbyterian, and Dutch Reformed bodies have places of worship here, while the scholastic establishments include a Government School and Dominican Convent. A weekly news-sheet is printed in Newcastle called the Newcastle Advertiser.
The principal products of the town and neighbourhood are wool, coal, tobacco, and maize. An important industry in the shape of a woollen factory has been working for some 3'ears with successful results. Tweeds and blankets of very good quality are pro- duced from the local wool. There are several coal mines in the vicinity, and with the
existing railway facilities, the natural expansion of trade, and the good seamo which have been recently opened up, the output should increase considerably.
MAIN STRliliT, NEWCASTLE I
130
£c;iik
F'lr^^yfiir^"'-^ fztr ■:■■■•.-
MAJUBA AND LANG S NEK
Fort Amiel looks down upon Newcastle trom the north-west. In relation to the W ar. the Dutch took possession of the town on the 15th October, 1899, but the majority of the residents had departed. So great was the affection of the Boers for the place, and so strong their conviction that they had come to stay, that they re-christened the town " Viljoensdorp," and appointed their own civic dignitaries. But they were not destined to enjoy this desirable retreat as long as they desired. With General Buller's sweeping movement into the Transvaal, the " Viljoensdorpites " were pushed back to the places from whence they came, and Newcastle was re-occupied in force by the British on the i8th May, 1900. The town was strongly garrisoned, and Newcastle became the head- quarters of the Army in Natal during the latter stages of the War. A well-equipped Soldiers' Institute has been built in the town for the benefit of the garrison now estab- lished there. Newcastle, it should be mentioned, is a Refreshment Room Station.
INGOGO recalls painful recollections of distant years — memories of martial blunders and
political mistakes. But side by side come the lustrous events, and brilliant episodes of latter years. Let us earnestly hope that these may be the progenitors of con- cord and peace, and that former enmity will resolve itself into the brotherhood of friendship and racial affection — an indissoluble union in one people, and one great Imperial aim.
Standing on the platform of this station the traveller will see three huge over-awing mountains. The centre one is flat-topped and the supporters are peaked. Naming them from the left they are Inkwelo, 6,872 feet high, the world-known Amajuba, 7,000 feet high, and Pogwana about the same altitude.
|
Altitude - |
. |
. |
■1.064 feet |
|
Distance - |
Fares |
- |
2SJ^ miles |
|
1st Single |
70/9. |
Return. 10612. | |
|
|
2nd ,. |
47i2. |
7019 |
131
The last-named was the first peak fortified in the recent War, and the inhabitants of Charlestown saw the gun being placed in position before the date of expiration of Kruger's ultimatum.
After being driven from Ladysmith and the Biggarsberg, the Boers entrenched and fortified this formidable tail of the Drakensberg. Apparently they anticipated a frontal attack, or an assault u])on their left, in order to force the passage of the historic Lang's Nek. But the rapid and brilliantly-executed movements of General Buller through Botha's Pass and round the west of the Little Inkwelo into Volksrust and Charlestown, completely frustrated their extravagant schemes.
At this point the thread of the War history may appropriately be connected :
On the nth of May, 1900, the chief section of the Natal Army with General Buller, marched from Sunday's River Drift and Ladysmith to Waschbank River. On the 12th May a supjjly jiark was formed at Waschbank. a small section of the column marching across country through Pomeroy towards Heli)makaar. at which place the troops met and, after engaging the Boers, wheeled in the direction of Beith. By a series of quick move- ments the whole force pushed forward keeping close on the Boers' rear-guard until, on the 15th May, they entered Dundee.
Concurrently with the above advance, General Hildyard's portion of the 5th division, which had been left at Elands Laagte, covered the distance between that position and Waschbank.
On the 17th. the Biggarsberg was clear of the enemy.
On the i8th, the whole force was concentrated at Newcastle.
On the 19th, Lang's Nek was reached, but found to be too strongly occupied and en- trenched for immediate and successful attack. A short period of waiting ensued for sujjply purposes and railway repairs.
On the 30th May General Buller advised the Boer Commandant. Christian Botha, that Lord Roberts had occupied Elandsfontein Junction, and therefore seeing his (Botha's) communications were severed, asked whether it was worth while continuing the struggle.
The result is common knowledge. The failure of the conference between the two Generals on the 2nd June ; the commencement of the attack on the 6th June by the occupation of Van Wyk's Hill to the south-east of Botha's Pass ; the placing of the heavy naval guns thereon, as well as on the slopes of Inkweloane Mountain : the bombardment of the heights on the 8th, the seizure of Spitz Koj) to the north of Van Wyk's Hill (between which the road to Botha's Pass runs), and the gallant and pncturesque winning of the Pass on that day, resulting in the complete routing of the enemy from their positions. Then followed the resumption of the advance on the loth : the passage through the Orange River Colony into the Transvaal again to rejoin the railway ; the magnificent battle and capture of Alleman's Nek on the nth; the evacuation of Lang's Nek by the enemy, and the taking of same by General Clery from the south on the 12th, without a shot being fired : and lastly the occupation of Charlestown. ^'olksrust, and Zandspruit by General Buller's forces on the 13th June — the whole plan of clearing Natal being carried through with the surprisingly small loss of 200 killed and wounded.
Notwithstanding the bad mangling of the railway line and the Lang's Nek tunnel, a clearance was effected in the remarkably short space of five days, trains passing through to Volksrust on the i8th June. 1000.
The following extract from Sir Redvers Buller's despatch lucidly illustrates the effect of his finely-conceived operations at Lang's Nek, and demonstrates how the enemy's expectations of a repetition of 1881 were ingloriously dispelled :
132
" By the operations thus described the enemy were compelled to abandon the position at Lang's Nek to the retention of which they attached the greatest importance, and on the preparation of which they had expended a vast amount of labour and energy. The position, immensely strong by nature, extending as it does along a series of hills for three miles with its western flank secured by Majuba, and its eastern flank by the deep gorge through which the River Buffalo flows, and beyond the river by the lofty mountain, Pogwana, was so skilfully and thoroughly entrenched as to be almost impregnable.
"The trenches were so arranged as to be invisible from the front, and yet were so placed that there is hardly a foot of ground in front of the position which does not come under cross and enfilade fire. On the bastion-like hill in the centre of the position, close under which passes the road over the Nek were two, and in some places three, rows of entrenchments, and on this and the other commanding crests, gun emplacements with bombproof casements for ammunition had been dug out of the solid rock. The slopes of Majuba were all entrenched, and the mountain itself was a mass of entrenchments, every possible approach to it being protected by them. On Pogwana was a very strong and carefully constructed emplacement for a six inch gun.
" Covered ways had been dug to enable the defenders of the trenches to get into them out of sight of the attack, and all approaches to the position had been burnt so as to show up Khaki clothing distinctly. It is evident that these preparations were not the work of a few days, but they had been most carefully finished in every particular, in fact no pains had been spared to render the position perfectly secure against attack. .\11 this labour, however, was in vain, for it was impossible for the enemy to retain the position when once our troops were in possession of Volksrust. as had they done so, they would have been in a cut de sac ; the Buffalo gorge preventing any escape to the east."
It will make a useful note for future reference to repeat the figures given by an authority of the British losses in battle throughout the whole Natal Campaign, namely : 948 killed, 4,340 wounded, a total of 5.288. This is exclusive of prisoners and minor losses which may be put down at several thousands.
The Ingogo District is replete with the War records of both Campaigns. To the north- west of the station are the sites of the three 1881 disasters — Lang's Nek on the 28th
♦!>/ ii*. .
MILITARY CEMETERY .•^T MOINI I'ROSPECT, WHERE GENER.\L SIR GEOKCiK COI.I.EY IS BURIED; 'majuba in BACKGROUND
133
HORSE SHOE CURVE, INCiOClO
January, Ingogo Heights (Schaiiis HooRte) on February 'Sth. and 'Majuba on the 27th Februarj-, 18S1.
There is much for the tourist to see in this famous mountain wedge, and to those who prefer to start from tliis side, it will be a convenience to know that an hotel is situated
O'NEIL's farm, where the treaty of 1S81 WAS SIONED
'34
on the main road towards Botha's Pass, two miles from trie station. Not only are the mountains of special attraction to the tourist, but the Buffalo Riv^er which formerly divided Natal from the Transvaal on the east, and flows through a wild and tangled country, is peculiarly interesting to the portrayer of weird and lonely scenes.
As the train advances from Ingogo to surmount the heights, about two hundred yards beyond the station, on the left, will be observed a narrow plain, and an isolated hill shaped like a dunce's cap. It was around this hill that the attacking forces worked towards Botha's Pass and Alleman's Nek.
far:m at the base of majuba
The method of negotiating the Ingogo Heights is distinctlv interesting. Instead of tunnelling, which would have been enormously expensive, the rails are laid on the bank of the mountain in zig-zags, and by twice reversing the engine the train is raised 1,334 feet. On reaching this elevation, a delightful view of the country below and the railway track with its horseshoe curve over the three bridges is obtained. Shortly afterwards the train winds round the base of 'Majuba and
MOUNT PROSPECT comes into sight. Not far away is O'Neil's house, where the , ,:7"r , „,, , I Peace Treatv of 1881 was signed. After rounding 'Maiuba,
Altitude - - - 4,983 f"t \ ■ . ^ c J .
Distance - - -296 miles General Collev's resting place^may be observed on the left
istsingiejdj. Return. iii:. hill, and the ascent of L^ni? s Nek (from the Special Stopping
— ' " — '-- " Place of that name) would give the site of the 1881 disaster ;
135
Alliliidt - . . 5JS6 fetl
Distance - . 304\ miles
Fares ;
I SI Sinele, 761- Relurn, IN/-
2nd „ SOU ,. 761- I
the graves of those who fell at this engagement : and also lead to the burial-ground of the brave who perished with Sir George CoUey on Amajuba itself.
Passing through Lang's Nek Tunnel — 2,213 feet long — both ends of which were shattered by the enemy for 200 feet, the border station.
CHARLESTOWN, is reached. Before the line was pushed through to the Rand in
1895, Charlestown was the terminus of railway communi- cation, and the active point where the o.\-wagon and train exchanged loads. It is still the point of traffic exchange with the Transvaal line, but now \ery different from the coach-stage period. The station premises are commodious, and a first-class Refreshment Room is provided.
The township enjoys a magnificent climate from its high situation, and is a desirable resort. It has two good hotels, the " Belgrave " and the " Corner " — the former a new erection in place of the one destroj'ed by the Boers. For the purposes of a healthy holi- day and an enjoyable tour, Charlestown is without doubt the best centre. It is within walking, riding, or driving distance of such historic eminences as Amajuba (traversing the ground of the Boer encampment before the battle in 1881) and Lang's Nek some four miles distant ; Pogwana, five miles : and Alleman's Nek about nine miles away.
Having arrived at the apex of the former famous triangle, and the last station on the Natal main line of railway, we proceed through the territor\- of the Transvaal towards the Rand.
JOH.\NNKSBURCi MAIL AT FOOT OF MAJIHA
136
PART FOUR.
TOWARDS THE RAND.
THROUGH THE TRANSVAAL.
PART FOUR
|
Altitude - |
. |
_ |
5,433 feet |
|
Distance - |
Fares |
- |
308 miles |
|
1st Single |
77/6. |
Return, 1161- j |
|
|
2nd ., |
5116. |
781. 1 |
CHAPTER I. FROM CHARLHSTOWN TO JOHAXXESBURG.
THE distance to the border is two-and-a-quarter miles, and the divisional line between Natal and the Transvaal consists simply of a barbed-wire fence. At a spruit in the vicinity, which was formerly also regarded as a sort of boundary. Lord (then Sir Henry) Loch met Mr. Kruger in conference on the Swaziland question. After passing the spruit, the train leaves Natal at the furthest Hmit of its north-western frontier, and enters the Transvaal. A quarter of a mile beyond the border the town of Volksrust is located.
VOLKSRUST consists of about 250 dwelling-houses, built principally of iron. Hotel
accommodation'is 'obtainable. Its only ornament is a stone monument, erected in memory of those who fell in this vicinity in the War of 188 1. A considerable business is done in wool-purchasing, and, before the beginning of the recent War, some 8,000 bales per season changed hands. Volksrust will have its asso- ciations for the historian of the future. In September, 1899, it was made the principal base for the Boer invasion of Natal, and it was always regarded as a point of considerable strategic importance. It consequently formed one of General Buller's principal objectives in his movements after the relief of Ladysmith. The contrast between the country which has been traversed before reaching Volksrust, and that which intervenes between Johan- nesburg and Pretoria, is most remarkable. The difference which immediately strikes one is perceptible, not merely in the geological features of the country, but in the vegetation and in the atmosphere. The valleys and the hilly uplands of Natal have been exchanged for interminable and monotonous plains, which bear a closer resemblance to the prairies of the central and western United States and the north-west territory of Canada, than to any other part of the habitable globe. The country in summer is covered with grass, in many spots similar to esparto, and the appearance of the vegetation in that season, when thunder-showers are frequent, is by no means unattractive. In winter another feature, which reminds one of prairie life, is noticeable — great grass fires, which are lighted in- tentionally, in order to secure a richer crop of grass and other vegetation in the coming spring and summer.
Though the effect produced, at a cursory glance over the land, is that of a level like a billiard table, appearances in this, as in other things, are deceptive. At intervals in this vast prairie are to be found huge ravines — without anything on the surface indicative of their presence — in which armies of 20,000 men and more are swallowed up with ease. To the Boers, who are so well acquainted with every inch of their native country, these dongas, or ravines, have proved of the utmost use in the War. They have been employed as fast- nesses, from which the guerillas could sally forth with ease on a foray, and return without a trace of their movements.
The climate here, as in all parts of the " high veld " of the Transvaal, is extremely bracing, and the breezy uplands which the railway traverses are among the best parts of the world for people who suffer from pulmonary complaints. In fact, generally speaking,
139
the climate of the higher Transvaal is one of the healthiest known— forming a complete contrast to the malarial regions of the low country — the western district of the Transvaal. The average height of this part of the land is from 5,000 to 6,000 feet above sea-level, and at one point, Kli])stapel, in the Ermelo district, the country rises, without any steep gradations, to 7,000 feet.
In former days this country, now so attractive and well-dowered, was a terra incos.nUa to travellers. No white foot touched the land in the days of its domination by the Zulus and their fierce offshoot — the Matabele. until the jiioneer Boers had cleared the country of their savage enemies. In the Transvaal, the Boers first of all settled in the south- western and central districts — Potchefstroom, Zeerust, Rustenburg, and Pretoria, and for a long time the eastern Transvaal was neglected. Gradually it became habitable and occupied to a small extent, and little wayside stations on the road from Natal sprung up. The usual mode of conveyance was by o.\-wagon, which gave wa\' to coaches and post- carts, as Barberton, and latterly Johannesburg, became centres of attraction. The journey from Natal in olden days is admirably described by the gifted South .\frican novelist, Mrs. Carey Hobson. in her book " At Home in the Transvaal," which vividly portrays Transvaal life in the days of the first Boer ^\■ar (1880-1881). The days of romance are over now, but the journey, if more prosaic, is more comfortable and expeditious.
The Vaal River is crossed for the first time at Standerton. Its banks are there steep and precipitous, and it is by no means the deep and placid stream seen at Vereeniging and Klerksdorp.
STANDERTON itself is the typical South African country town. It is the principal
resort of a very large and fertile district, and in past days had celebrity as a market town. It is far from attractive in appearance, there being no natural features of any im- portance, if we except the Vaal River. The town, which in
A lllludr ... 5.025 fttt
Distance ... 369 miles
Fares:
HI Single. 92i6. Return, 1401-
2nd „ 6316. „ 97/.
normal times has a population of about i.ooo to 1,200 souls, has played its part in the history of the Transvaal. It stood a protracted siege in the Boer War of 1881. being gallantly held for Great Britain by Captain Carl von Brandis. During the War which began in 1899, Standerton was again prominent. In the course of the operations in the Eastern Transvaal, it was occupied by General Buller. and constituted an important base of operations. In the future, Standerton is destined to jilay a large ]iart in the economic history of the Transvaal. It is peculiarly fertile, has fine jjasturage for sheej) and cattle, and its mineral possibilities — which have been tested — are great.
After the train leaves Standerton, the country undergoes a great change in its natural features. It is, in the first place, diversified by numerous ridges, which intersect, and give the landscape a broken appearance. At intervals there are big hills, for the most part round or oval-shaped, of basalt and sandstone. The\' are very similar in appearance to the hills seen later or near Johannesburg, although the Heidelberg Hills — some of which might almost be termed mountains — are more rugged. The nature of the vegetation, Hkewise, changes somewhat. There is still ]ilcnt\ of ^rass. but it is plentifully inter- spersed with low brushwood.
HEIDELBERG. The apjjroach to Heidelberg is atiractne, and the town, which may
, , ,„„ ^ be \iewcd as a whole from the train, a few miles before it
Altitude ... 5.029 Jeet
Distance - . . uimiUs is reached, presents a most pleasant picture. The steeple
isi Single. 1 1016. Return, 1691- of its Ornate church mav be^seen for many miles around.
2nd ., 7Sl- „ 12016. ^, ^ , ' ^ ■ ' , .
1 The town is very pleasant in spnng or summer, being
140
HEIDELBERG
" bosomed high in tufted trees," It has in its time also played an important part in the Transvaal history. In the Boer War of 1881 it became the headquarters of the Boer Provisional Government, or Triumvirate, which consisted of Kruger, Joubert, and Pre- torius. It was here, on December i6th. 1880. that the South African Republic was formally proclaimed, in a long proclamation, containing a summary of the events of the few pre- ceding years, and declaring the arrangements the malcontents were willing to make with the British authorities. From Heidelberg was despatched the force which overwhelmed a detachment of the 94th Regiment, at Bronkhorst Spruit on the road between Pretoria and Middelburg, on December 20th, 1880. One of the first acts of the Triumvirate was to despatch a large force from Heidelberg with orders to advance into Natal territory, and seize Lang's Nek.
In later years, the town and district of Heidelberg grew considerably. The district is not merely fertile, but abounds in gold-bearing reefs, the best known and richest of which is the " Nigel." It has tremendous mineral possibilities, and reliable authorities predict that in time to come it will be one of the richest gold-producing districts in the world, ranking second to the Witwatersrand. Under the Boer Government, the Witwatersrand Goldfields were officially included in the area of the district of Heidelberg.
The locahty is interesting, from an antiquarian point of view, in that it was the prin- cipal seat of Moselikatse (or " Path of Blood "), the famous " Lion of the North," and founder of the Matabele nation, the traces of whose chief kraal are still to be seen.
Heidelberg may be recommended as a pleasant health resort. It boasts of some excellent hotels, stores, and private houses. Its population is about 3,000 to 3,500.
After Heidelberg, the railway approaches the upland downs of Witwatersrand. The first indication of pro.ximity to a mining centre is afforded by a glimpse, on the sky-line, of the gaunt headgear of the mines on the East Rand, near Boksburg. Suddenly there is a wonderful metamorphosis, and ^the train leaves the quiet country-side, descending upon a forest of chimneys and staging which indicates the very " hub " of the mining industry — Germiston. Germiston is flanked^by ' Elandsfontein, the principallfrailway junction of the Transvaal, through which, in ordinary times, from 250 to 300 trains run daily. Southwards from Elandsfontein, a line of 1,000 miles in length runs through the Orange River Colony to the Cape. A line runs south-westwards tojjohannesburg, and another northwards to Pretoria, and one eastwards to Boksburg. In time Elandsfontein
141
will 111' one ol the busiest railway stations in the Uritish Eni])ire, with the ex- ception of those in and near London. The station pos- sesses a comfortable tjuffet. To Jolianncslnirf; the train runs through a labyrinth of mines and mining works, which afford a novel spec- tacle not to be seen any- where else. The effect ])ro- duced by the numerous reservoirs and glistening tailings-heai)s is not un- picluresque. The more important mines have their own little railway stations, at which, however, through trains do not stop. These are the Simmer and lack, JOHANNESBURG the Gddenhuis, the J umpers.
and the George Goch. At the last-named, a huge plantation, which is only one of many
that surround Johannesburg on all sides, is reached.
After this, Jeppestown, one of the largest suburbs of Johannesburg, is reached. It is
attractive from a residential point of view, being regarded as one of the healthiest jsarts
of the city, standing, as it does, on elevated ground. Adjoining the Jeppestown station
is a pleasant place for visitors, the Grand Station Hotel.
Next comes Doornfontein, which has for many years been pre-eminent as the most
fjishionable suburb of Johannesburg, though it is threatened to be shorn of its glories by
Parktown. Doornfontein lies in the beautiful Bezuidenhout's Valley, which charms the
eye with its avenues of magnificent trees.
Leaving Doornfontein, the train proceeds through a long cutting, and finally draws up
at Park Station, the principal passenger-station of Johannesburg. On the north side of
Park Station are the spacious recreation grounds of the Wanderers' Club, while on the
south the station opens directly upon the town.
Harnett
CHAPTER IL JOHANNESBURG.
THE first object that strikes the eye on leaving the Park Railway Station is the Jewish Synagogue, beyond which is the striking tower of the Telephone Exchange. A drive of three or four minutes along Eloff Street or Rissik Street brings one past fashionable Pritchard Street (the Regent Street of the Rand) to the very heart of ' ,,,., ^ „ „ , the town, the Market Square. A glance at the Post Office
Alttlude - - - 1,6S9 feet 'MO
DUtancc - ■ ■ 483 milts and sunounding buildings, many four or five storeys in
height, serves to indicate the wonderful prosperity and the immense prospects of Johannesburg.
lU Single, 1211- Return, 1S5!6. 2nd „ S6I6. „ 1341-
142
After leaving the Market Square, one comes to Commissioner Street, in and near which are the offices of all the great financiers, and that centre oficeaseless excitement, the Stock Exchange. Everything is redolent of the great industry — gold. It will, therefore, be appropriate to give a brief sketch of the history of the mining industry in the Transvaal.
The Boers were always a pastoral people, and their sole object in settling in the Trans- vaal was to acquire homes for themselves, and plenty of room for their flocks and herds. The desire to found a purely pastoral community was, in the first place, responsible for the aversion the Boers had to the incoming of intrusive foreigners, on the look-out for precious metal. Thus, when gold was first discovered in 1854, the Government of the day, fearing a foreign influx, prohibited prospecting under heavy penalties.
Herr Carl Mauch, a distinguished German traveller, discovered in 1867, auriferous formations in the northern districts of the country. The Government shortly afterwards withdrew its prohibition, and in 1872 the first Gold Laws were published, and rewards offered for the discovery of payable fields.
Alluvial gold was found near Lydenburg, and a considerable number of nuggets un- earthed, some scaling up to 215 ounces.
In 1882, attention was directed to the DE KAAP VALLEY, where a large block of farms was thrown open. In 1886, the discovery of the Sheba Mine created a fever of excitement. A limited liabihty company was formed, and men in hot haste began to flock
llfiniclt
■43
from all parts of the countn-. At one time the £i shares of the Sheba Company rose to £ioo. In 1887, over ten thousand persons were in the district, and the town of Barberton was built. Innumerable companies were floated, and the wildest schemes inaugurated. This, of course, resulted in a speedy collapse, and in a very short time only the permanent and well-developed reefs were kept open. At this period the output of Barberton was about 70,000 ounces per annum. Its production for the year 1898 was 89,760 ounces, valued at £314,792.
THE Wn WATF.KSR.^NI) GOLDI-IEI.DS
harnetl
The WITWATERSRAND was discovered in 1885. Prior to this, properties on-the Rand were of comparatively lit.''? value, ranging in price from £200 to £500, but as capital ists appeared, they rose in price, and in a few months changed hands at sums varying from £7,000 to £70.000.
On the 20th September, 1SS6, the Rand was proclaimed a public goldfield, and Captain Von Brandis appointed first Commissioner. A Government sale of building stands, each of which measured 50 feet square, was held, the standard price being about £200 each. Some of these have since realised £20,000 to £40,000. Good buildings soon began to appear, and the Johannesburg of to-day rose as a natural consequence, resulting from the continually increasing output of gold, statistics of which are here given :
|
RAND GOLD OUTPUT. |
||||||||||
|
PROf |
-RESSIVE |
OUTPUT |
FROM J |
AXUARV, |
1890, TO |
October, 1899. |
||||
|
1890 |
1891 |
1892 |
1893 |
1894 |
1895 |
1896 |
1897 |
1898 |
1899 |
|
|
Ozs. |
Ozs. |
Ozs. |
Ozs. |
Ozs. |
Ozs. |
Ozs. |
Ozs. |
Ozs. |
Ozs. |
|
|
January |
35.006 |
53.205 |
84,;6o |
108,374 |
149.814 |
177.463 |
148.178 |
209,832 |
313.826 |
410,145 |
|
February |
36,88; |
50.079 |
86,649 |
93.252 |
151,870 |
169,295 |
167.018 |
211,000 |
321,238 |
404.335 |
|
March |
37.780 |
52.949 |
93.244 |
111.474 |
165,372 |
184.945 |
173.952 |
232,066 |
325.907 |
425,166 |
|
April |
38,696 |
56.371 |
95.562 |
112,053 |
168.745 |
186,323 |
176.707 |
235,698 |
335.125 |
439.111 |
|
May |
38,836 |
54.672 |
99.436 |
1 16,91 1 |
169.773 |
194,580 |
195,008 |
248,305 |
344.160 |
444,933 |
|
Julie |
37.419 |
55.863 |
103.253 |
122,907 |
168.162 |
200,941 |
193,640 |
251.529 |
344.670 |
445,763 |
|
July |
39.456 |
54.924 |
101,279 |
126,169 |
167.953 |
199.453 |
203.873 |
242,479 |
359.343 |
456,474 |
|
.\ugust |
42.863 |
59.070 |
102,322 |
1 36,069 |
174.977 |
203.573 |
212,429 |
259.603 |
376.911 |
459.710 |
|
September . . |
45.485 |
6;,6oi |
i07,<S5i |
129,585 |
176.707 |
194.764 |
202.561 |
262.150 |
384.080 |
411.762 |
|
October |
45.248 |
72,793 |
112,167 |
136,682 |
173.378 |
192,652 |
199.890 |
274.175 |
400.791 |
748.243 |
|
November |
46,782 |
73.393 |
106,794 |
138.640 |
175.304 |
195.218 |
201. 113 |
297.124 |
413.519I |
War |
|
December |
50,352 |
80,3:2 |
117.748 |
146.357 |
182.104 |
178.428 |
206.5 1 8 |
310,712 |
440.675 ) |
period. 4,645,642 |
|
.\nnual Totals |
494,810 |
729.232 I |
,210,865 I |
.478.473 |
2,024. 1 59 |
2,277.635 |
2.280,887 |
3,034,673 |
4.360.245 |
144
liATTEKV OF GOLD MINK ON THE RAND aarneil
The total output of gold from the combined mines of the Transvaal for 1898 was valued at £16,240,630. During the same year 12,413 white men and 8g,ooo natives were employed on 137 mines. The value of gold-mining machinery and plant in use during 1898 was ;f9,409,059.
The population of Johannesburg just prior to the War was set down variously at between 100,000 and 120,000. It is difficult to estimate it correctly, as the floating element is great. It is made up principally of whites, and possesses amongst its numbers, some of the smartest business men in the world.
The cost of living in Johannesburg, at one time monstrous, is now reduced to more reasonable limits, although house rents are still high.
Provision is made for the needy, who can obtain shilling meals, and at the same time no luxury is beyond the reach of the wealthy.
The town was once, before the introduction of any system of sanitation, unhealthy in the e.\treme, but more modern methods have remedied this evil, and Johannesburg is now far healthier than many European cities, and its elevation, 5,689 feet above the sea level, at once bespeaks its invigorating climate. The result is that people, on the average, lead a more active life, and work harder than they do elsewhere. This hard work demands a compensating amount of recreation, which is afforded by numerous sporting clubs of all kinds, and up-to-date theatres and music-halls.
Social life in Johannesburg is very pleasant. The keenest interest is taken in politics and other contemporary movements. Churches connected with almost all denomina- tions are to be found. There are several e.xcellent newspapers issued daily in Johannes- burg : The Star, Transvaal Leader, and Rand Daily Mail. The Transvaal Critic is a weekly publication.
H5
The history ot Johannesburg during the jiast decade is part of the history of the British Empire, and does not need lengthy discussion in this place. In December, 1895, came the Jameson Raid, which was preceded by the departure for the coast towns of a large number of the inhabitants. After the Raid came the trial of the Reform Prisoners, four of whom (Lieut. -Col. Frank Rhodes, Messrs. Lionel Phillips, John Hay Hammond, and George Farrar) were sentenced to death, and the rest to varying terms of imprisonment. Then followed a long period of depression. The hopes of the people were raised by the appointment, in 1897, of an Industrial Commission to enquire into the commercial griev- ances of the Uitlanders, but the labours of that commission were stultified_by the action of the Transvaal Government. In 1898 a vigorous agitation against the oppressive rule of the Kruger clique began, and resulted in a great demonstration on the shooting, in December, 189S, of a subject named Edgar by a Johannesburg policeman. Messrs. T. R. Dodd and Clem Webb, the leaders of the South African League, were arrested under the Public Meetings Law, and released on the excessive bail of £1,000. During the year 1899 great mass meetings were held by the Uitlanders, and finally the Boer Government broke off the negotiations consequent upon the Bloemfontein Conference, and issued its ultimatum to Great Britain. During the \\'ar, many of the Johannesburgers fought bravely, principally in the Imperial Light Horse and South African Light Horse, and showed that the inhabitants of the town were fully capable of self-sacrifice, and of rising above merelj- material considerations.
146
From the Reef Mr. W. Bleloch estimates that 2,871 millions of money's worth of gold have yet to be extracted. The town will, in all probability, grow in proportion. It will be 'assured of a plentiful water supply, and a Water Commission has recently been considering the best means of providing a great and permanent source. The Town Council, under its Constitution, has wide powers, and it is expected that sanitation, and the paving and care of streets and electric locomotion along them, will proceed on the most approved and modern lines.
Johannesburg"has"a'great'future before it.
MARCH P.^ST LORD ROBERTS OF 85,000 BRITISH TROOPS : OCCIPATION OF PRETORIA, JUNE 5. 1900
T
CHAPTER III. PRETORIA.
HE seat of Government of the Transvaal, Pretoria, is situated about thirtv-five miles north-east by north of Johannesburg.
On leaving the latter, the line traverses the town for some distance, and ; the observer is impressed with the extent of tree-planting
AUitutIt - - - 4.471 jeel ,..,, ., _ ., '^.'^
Distance - - - sii miles | which has been earned out. For many mues a succession
of young forests can be seen, and in fact the greater part ot
- the route is enlivened and beautified by shrubberies.
The town of Pretoria is situated in a circle of hills, and may fairly be described as one
of the prettiest, if not the prettiest, of interior towns in South Africa. V'iewed from the top
of any one of the surrounding hills during the summer season, the place has the appearance
1st Single, I2SI- Return, 197;- 2nd ., 921- „ 143!-
147
Bnrntll
of a huge bouquet of flowers, and its many line buildings are bowered in loftv trees. The centre portion of the town has a ckister of buildings which would be no discredit to a European capital. The former Raadzaal. or Parliament House, is the principal of these — a truly palatial building erected at a cost of £138.000. Facing it is another magnificent erection, the new Law Courts, or Palace of Justice.
Both these fine buildings, as well as many others in the town, were utilised by the British forces, first as hospitals, and afterwards as staff and departmental offices. The <)tlier buildings in the vicinity are those of the National ISank. to which is attached the Mint. .\ large and imposing Dutch Reformed Church occupies the centre of the market square.
From this point streets diverge in all directions. Wherever the eye rests, fine buildings can be seen, and the business life of the place is of an advanced and high-class description.
The ])opulation before the War was about 25.000 persons, half of whom were coloured. There is no lack of all the modern conveniences of life, and the tourist who visits the Governmental capital of the Transvaal will be well rewarded for the journej'.
Pretoria has always been famous in the internal history of the Transvaal, and the diplomatic history of South Africa generally, as the political capital of the country. During
148
the War of 1881 it formed the head quarters of the British troops, and endured a pro- tracted siege. As the seat of Government it was always prominent in Uitlander eyes as the place to which resort must be had when Johannesburg wished any of its numerous grievances remedied. It is interesting to note that Pretoria has now become the actual capital of the Transvaal, as the repeal of the Republican Constitution has done away with the claim of Potchefstroom to being the capital, as apart from the seat of Govern- ment. It will grow in importance from an industrial point of view, as there much gold, iron, and other minerals in the district. Diamond mining is already a local industry of no mean importance, and will improve in the future. The district is exceedingly fertile, and offers great possibilities to agriculturists.
CHAPTER IV.
CONCERNING THE TRANSVAAL.
THE Transvaal Colony lies between the 22nd and 28th parallel of South Latitude, and the 25th and 32nd degrees of East Longitude. The area of the country is 113,642 square miles. The population given by the last census, i.e., before hostilities, was 167,150 men, 122,350 women — a total of 289,500 whites, and 589,126 natives.
Under the republican regime the country was divided into the following districts : —
|
DISTRICT. |
CHIEF TOWN". |
|
Pretoria. |
Pretoria. |
|
Potchefstroom. |
Potchefstroom. |
|
Rustenberg. |
Rustenburg. |
|
Waterberg. |
Xylstroom. |
|
Zoutpansberg. |
Pietersburg. |
|
Lydenburg. |
Lydenburg. |
|
Middelburg. |
Middelburg. |
|
Heidelberg. |
Johannesburg. |
|
Wakkerstroom. |
Martmus Wesselstroom. |
|
Utrecht. |
Utrecht. |
|
Bloemhof. |
Christiana. |
|
Manco. |
Zeerust. |
|
Standerton. |
Standerton. |
|
Ermelo. |
Ermelo. |
|
Lichtenburg. |
Lichtenburg. |
|
Vryheid. |
X'rvheid. |
|
Piet Retief. |
Piet Retief. |
|
Klerksdorp, Carohna (chief town, Carohna), |
Krugersdorp. and Wolmaransstad. are separate |
|
districts. |
|
|
[Note. — The above particulars represent the |
area, division, and population of the Transvaal |
|
prior to the War.] |
The southern portion of the Colony is traversed from west to east by a high plateau, which forms the watershed between the rivers running south and those running north, of which the chief are the Vaal and the Limpopo. Besides this plateau, called^the Hooge Veld, there are three mountain ranges which cross the country from west to east, of which
149
the most northerly is called the Zoutpansberg, in the district of the same name. Detached ranges, which are continuations of the Drakensberg, extend from the Natal boundary across the Olifant's River as far as the Limpopo, the northern limit of the Transvaal. These rise in places to some 7,000 feet.
Owing to the elevation of the country, which is over 4,000 feet above the sea, the climate IS healthy, the winter being especially bracing. This season extends from April to .■Vugust, and is generally dry. The monthly mean temperature during the summer ranges irom 65° to 73°, and during the winter from 59° to 65°.
The countr}- is well watered, as in the Orange River Colony it is supjilied with numer- ous pans and lakelets, the largest of which is Lake Chrissie, 36 miles in circumference. Horses, cattle and sheep thrive well, and in the middle and northern parts of the Colony, vegetation is luxuriant, and many extensive forests occur.
The Transvaal, generally, has before it a future such as has been open to but few coun- tries. From all points of view, agricultural, pastoral, mineral, industrial — it has bound- less possibilities. The practical faith in its future is shown by the fact that capitalists have purchased huge tracts in various parts, in order to commence and carry out mining and agricultural operations. The country can support a vast population with ease, and there is no reason why, within comparatively few years, it should not rival and out- distance such prosperous American States as Ohio and Illinois. All that new-comers, who intend to settle, require, is a fair amount of capital with which to start. With a settlement by a new population distributed throughout the country, the leaven of progress and civilization will sjjread, and the consequences of the recent War will speedily be forgotten. The country has vast recuperative powers, and in a short space of time the unfortunate history of the past twenty years will be forgotten for ever.
PART FIVE.
THE NORTH COAST BRANCH LINE
TO
ZULULAND.
PART FIVE.
CHAPTER I.
A NOTE. -The North Coast Branch line is distinctly an "industrial" one, and for the main part serves the immense sugar and tea bearing areas. It does not hug the sea- shore in the manner of the South Coast line, but from the time it wheels away from its junction, Durban, it keeps several miles inland.
The scenery, though decidedly interesting, is not strikingly picturesque, but nevertheless the Branch is not \without its compensating attractions.
The number of pleasure resorts is somewhat limited, the principal being Umgeni, and the Mount Edgecombe, Tongaat, Umvoti and Umhlali beaches; whilst Eshowe in Zululand must not be forgotten.
The Durban-Verulam section of the line described in the next chapter (Ex. "The Colony of Natal") is supplied with a frequent service of trains, and a thoroughly pleasant afternoon may be spent in visiting either the sugar mill at Mount Edgecombe, or travelling further on and touring over the old-established town of Verulam, returning to Durban the same evening. The trip to Umgeni is also a niost enjoyable and popular excursion.
The through service of trains to and from the terminus of the Branch is conveniently arranged to suit all passenger requirements.
CHAPTER II. PROM GREYVILLE TO VERULAM.
GREYVILLE, the first Station on the Branch, is a popular suburb. Here the principal railway locomotive sheds are situated. Looking on the right of the line, a good view is derived of the Durban Flat, or Eastern Vlei, stretch- ing to a long wall of bush-clads and-hills. This flat is artistically decorated with — — : — I fine specimens of euphorbia-cactus, black mimosa, flat
Altitude - - - m leet •■ ^ ' '
Dittame - - 'i mdes crown, and palm trees, m addition to many beautiful 1st Single, 6d. Keturn.gii. Varieties of wild flowers and ferns, and patches of the
"' ■ — odorous arum-lily. Churchill Road, a little further on, is
a suburban stopping place. Several rifle butts are situated here.
STAMFORD HILL, the following Station, is a continuation of the lovely Berea Ridge.
It is a ver}- favourite residential neighbourhood. There
Altitude ■ ■ - 16 feet
Distance - ■ - .'J m./M | are a match factory, brick works, and a high-class poultry
ist Single. yd. Return, u2. farm in the vicinity. About a mile in advance a high
— '■ '■ ' wooded hill will be observed, from the summit of which
candelabra-cactus trees stand out with peculiar effect against the sky. This is Umgeni Hill. Around its foot is the village of that name. It is a busy corner, and possesses some good buildings. The principal iron-foundry in the Colony is situated here, as well as extensive wool-washing mills, a large coffee factory, a tannery, a distillery, and a cigar and tobacco manufactory. Coast fruits are grown in large quantities, and maize is by no means an unlucrative cultivation.
153
ON THK IMOKNI KOAD
HINDOO TEMPLE NEAR UMGENI (fiLPHGRBIA CACTUS TREE IN FOREGROUND)
Dhimcc ■ - - similes picturesqucness. The charmingly-situated hotel near the
1st singie.it-'^'^'^ R'tumJie. bridge, is a fashionable rendezvous. Glancing eastwards
2nd .. sa. .. h-
UMGENI is a suburb of Durban, and, although having a comparatively small popu- lation, is of repute by reason of its various businesses and
Distance ■ - • S^ miles
' Parks: , . ,
! 1st Single, Ij- Return. 116. Dndge
^"'' " — — " — ^ from the station, the eye catches a glimpse of the blue
Indian Ocean at the point vvhere the river flows into it. This is a favourite resort of anglers and pleasure-seekers. The lagoon or still pool, at the mouth, is barred from the sea by bush-studded sand-hills. Turning to the westward, the tourist will see the famous stone-quarries where the " hard-labour " gangs of convicts are forced to make the period of their incarceration useful to the community by quarrying the stone for street-hardening, and harbour purposes.
UMGENI RIVER, .AND RAIL .\ND RO.\D BRIDGES
The Umgeni River, which divides the Durban and Victoria Counties, broad and studded with reedy islands, is a pleasant feature in the scenery. The iron railway bridge, 1, 080 feet long, by its height and strength, sufficiently denotes that, when the stream is in flood, it is a formidable torrent.
The view up the Umgeni, as the train crosses the bridge, is a fair sample of the scenery to be met with in the less interesting parts of the| Colony. On the Zululand side of the bridge, to the left, is the well-known Sea Cow Lake, until quite recently the habitation of hippopotami and crocodiles. Though out of sight, the Lake is within easj- walk of the Umgeni Station. On the other side of the line is an arrowroot manufactory.
The journey onwards through the Victoria County lies through extensive acreaees ol sugar cane. The contour of the country is very uneven, and prevents the rapid progress of the train. Mills are sighted ever and anon, and several brick-making works are seen, as the train moves towards
GREENWOOD PARK.
|
Altitude - Distance - |
192 feet 55 miles |
|||
|
1st Single 2nd „ |
Fares ri6. II- |
Retum |
213. 116. |
The country around this attractive suburb was at one time densely wooded, and enough primeval forest remains to impart a distinct characteristic to the place. The RED HILL, through which deep railway cuttings have been made, and at which a stopping place has been established.
155
has even yet a sprinkling of small game, while orchids, honeysuckle, mistletoe, and other familiar plants, together with sarsaparilla. nightshade, and Canute, combine to remind the traveller that this is Africa and not England. Passing on we reach
AVOCA. There is no village at Avoca, only a few houses, a sugar mill, hotel, and a
concert hall. These are all located near the station. In the vicinity there are two sugar plantations, and the monster estate of the Natal Central Sugar Company com- mences here. Leaving Avoca, after two miles steaming, the train arrives at
|
AltilmU |
. |
. |
63 |
ftel |
|
Distance |
8 miles |
|||
|
FARb! |
||||
|
IsIS |
ngU |
21- |
Return, 31- |
|
|
2nd |
■' |
II*. |
.. -'/- |
SUGAR MILL, MOL'NT EDGECOMBE
DUFF'S ROAD.
To the eastward of the station a long rounded hill, named Mount Moriah, will be spied, its slopes seamed with rows of sugar
Altitude ■ - - IS3/eet _, , , ,,,,.,,
Distance ■ - - 10^ miles \ canc. lo the wcstward are some old-established
Isl Single, 219. Return, -112.
— l"!" — - — '— 1; — — ' country store here, also a small Weslevan
estates, and the Umtata Distillery. There is
a hotel Chapel
and
and
Altitude - - - 1 15 feet
Distance - - - f2 miles
FahIS:
1st Single, 31- Relm n, 416.
2nd „ 21- .. 31-
graveyard, where sleeps many a staunch old colonist.
PHOENIX, the next stoppage, has no individual attraction, and the train wends
its way through a country almost com[)letely covered with the broad sword-like leaves of the sugar-cane, in all stages of growth, from tiny little green shoots to vvell- grown plants eight feet in height, until
MOUNT EDGECOMBE, noted as the station for the factory of the Natal Central ^7/«ri ^"S^"" Company, is entered. The original cost of this
mill, machinery, and estate was /ioo,ooo, but since then
it has been largely added to. Its cane-crushing capacity is 300 tons per diem, and about 26 tons of sugar are man- ufactured per diem during the cutting or harvest season, between June and March. As one approaches the factory from the south, long sheds containing bagasse (the refuse of
Altitude - Distance - - - 14 mites
Fares: 1st Single, 3i6. Retum,5l3.
2nd ,. 214. „ 3;6
156
the cane after the juice has been extracted) stand in ranges. Open spaces devoted to drying this article, which is used for fuel, flank the sheds. Next to these is the tall chim- ney, ninety feet in height, beside which is the mill house. In front of the crushing door, in high piles, the uncrushed canes lie awaiting treatment, while long lines of trucks, with towering loads of saccharine-yielding canes, stand ready for discharge. A travelling table, attended to by rows of coolies, bears a constant supply of the cane to the rollers, which are just inside the entrance. These rollers are huge, grooved, iron affairs, set in such a position as to extract the juice, and pass the bagasse out at the other side of the mill. The canes are crushed twice, to ensure complete extraction. All this time a constant stream of juice is falling in a veritable saccharine cascade into the broad troughs prepared for its reception. The grey, waterj'-looking fluid then passes through the various processes of boiling, condensing, purifying, crj-stallizing, and finishing, until it emerges in beautiful snow-white, golden-yellow, or brown crystals. It is not necessary in this place to deal with the manufacture in detail, but the visitor to the mill may be assured of a hearty welcome. The extent of this Companj-'s estate is over 20,000 acres, and the careful management, carried out on practical and economical lines, cannot fail to win approval from the most casual. The latest scheme is that for utilising the refuse from the mill, which formerly found its waj" to the streams and caused their pollution. It is now collected in huge tanks, pumped three-quarters of a mile and then distributed over the land. It makes an excellent manure. The mill turned out in 1901 over 4,700 tons of sugar from its own and adjoining planters' canes. The estate employs 250 Kafirs, 1,500 Indians (men. women and children), and about 30 families of whites as managers, sub-managers, engineers, and artisans.
A convenient hotel ad- joins the Mount Edgecombe Station. The sea is four miles away and above the beach several summer resi- dences have been erected. The scenery along the rocky coast, and in the forest near by, where charcoal burning is carried on, is very beauti- ful, and only the pressure on space precludes the further sounding of its praises. It should be briefly recorded that good bathing, fishing, and botanizing may be ob- tained. Shortly after quit- ting Mount Edgecombe for Ottawa, some fine specimens of date palms are to be seen.
WKSLEV.W ClllRCH, VKRII.AM
157
INDIAN FKLIT SELLERS, VERULAM
OTTAWA. The groves of trees planted around this station serve to impart a pleasant
aspect to the place. The sugar estates of several veteran planters arc in the neighbourhood. At the mouth of the great Umhlanga River (great only in name) there is some very fine scenery. The lagoon here is navigable for pleasure
Alhliiilc - - - 139/ttt
Oislauce - - -16k miles
I-Aicts:
tsl Sini;le,llJ. Rcliiin.BIS.
2nd „ .' - 413.
boats for two ni
Jut the right of fishing is reserved.
TOBACCO PLANTATION NEAR VEKLLAM
B. ir Cancy
Advancing from Ottawa, the train speeds past an open country, under a forty-feet viaduct, and then passes through a tunnel, 113 feet long, at Kahtskop. On emerging from the latter, and turning a bend in the line, a glimpse of the Umhloti River valley and the town of Verulam is obtained, and a moment after, the train steams into the station.
VERULAM. The first sight which greets the eye is the comfortable two-storeyed
Railway Hotel. Next come the Wesleyan Chapel and the Market Square, on the northern side of which is the Court House. There are five long parallel, and three cross streets in Verulam. Several stores and many dwelling-houses line
Altitude -• - - 167 feet
Distance ■ - /9i miles
1st Single, 419. Return,7l2.
2nd .. 312. „ •<;».
the main thoroughfare. A three-storeyed corn and general mill, moved by water power, is situated on the banks of the Umhloti River, at the far end of the town, and two wagon- building establishments and two tobacco and cigar factories are also in working. A good view of the town can be obtained from the Zululand Road, rising towards Fuller's Flats, on the further side of the river, and from Kahtskop to the southward. From this latter vantage-point the scene is interesting. In the near foreground the Indian Hospital, with its red roof, forms a pleasant contrast to the somewhat stunted foliage of the mimosa which skirts the highway. Further on, the Cemetery, with its cypress trees and well- designed tombs, occupies a rounded hill. Beyond it the fine Government School is seen. Here a large number of children are daily instructed under competent teachers. Below this again is the Church. Beyond this the main street, with its stores and residences, trends towards the river. In addition to the Hospital and School, in the way of institu- tions, there are a public library (containing 2,000 volumes, amongst which there is a goodly sprinkling of standard works, and a good supply of periodicals and journals), a Recreation Room, Volunteer Hall, Rifle Association, several Benefit and Missionary Societies, Church Guilds and Temperance Lodges, and Wesleyan, Episcopalian, and Roman Catholic places of worship. The Divisional Headquarters of the Natal Police are also here, their centre being of course at the Magistracy. Verulam was founded in 1850, and was named by the original settlers after St. Albans. Its population is about 500 whites, and an equal number of natives and Indians. The assessed value of its properties is about £50,000. The climate is very hSalthv, and the death rate very low. Within a few miles of the town, to the east- ward, the mouth of the Umhloti River serves the district as a place of pleasure resort.
The trade depends principally upon the sugar industry, and the original forest lands are now supplanted by sugar cane, extending for miles around. The " free " Indian is prominent in the district, and chiefly pursues the avocation of a vegetable and maize culti- vator. The tropical fruits grow abundantly, while mealies and beans are large produc- tions. Tobacco-growing has also made good strides. The tea industry has not yet visited the district, although it is well suited to this enterprise. To the westward, at a distance of eight or nine miles out, the long-established Lixdley Mission St.\tion is located, where the student of African character will find ample scope for investigation. Close to the Mission House, an establishment devoted to the training of native girls is placed. A laundry business is carried on by the industry of the girls, and a great deal of Durban's washing 1=; done here.
Before leaving Verulam and its environments, it may be ahke interesting and relieving to peep at the wild and romantic country round about the In.\nd.\ Range of Mount.\ins, which adjoin the Mission Station. These bold and bluff-like buttresses of Nature jut out into a veritable wonderland of beautj', where foaming rivers, black forests, cafions, and long lonely plains, are woven together into a mass which only a trained pedestrian will
159
\ATIVE IN WAR COSTIME
1 60
4
'^^y^m^^^^^'S
NAini-'. DRINKING KAMK lU-l-.K
i6i
care to negotiate. The Umzinyati River here plunges over a sheer cliff of over 200 feet. Though this river is by no means large, it makes up for it in foam, sparkle, and dash. It is enxnroned by lonely forests, whose silence is seldom disturbed by aught sa\'e the barking cry of the baboon, or the wail of the isinkwe (night-walking lemur). On the sandstone cliffs and in the recesses of the thickly wooded chasm — the haunt of the " dassie " or rock-rabbit — many beautiful jilants may be found. Within a few miles circuit, aiiout six native tribes are located. Here the tourist, having studied the Christianised native, can rc\el to his heart's content in barbarism as dense and unsophisticated as he could find in the depths of Matabeleland. Women toiling in the corn fields, warriors in all the glory of plumes and spears, chieftains dwelling in semi-royal state, war dances, and barbarous festivals. If his temjierancc i)rincii)les are not unalterable, he may partake of Kafir beer out of a real calabash, and recognise in it the flavour of stale yeast. In another section the natives and their waj's will be touched upon, but at present a few hints as to how to visit the district may not be out of place. The journey must be made on horseback. Fairly good animals can be obtained in Venilam at a cost of ics. per diem ; a native guide will cost ^s. a day ; while io,s. invested in provisions will insure the visitor against privation, as native diet is not always palatable. An hour's ride will bring the traveller to the Mission Station already mentioned, where directions as to roads may be obtained. Two daj-s will be sufficient to cover the journey. The Inanda range is about 2,500 feet above sea-level, the blue sheen of which can be clearlv seen from its summit.
ch.\1'Ti-:k III.
FROM VKRUL.VM TO ST.XXOHK.
BETWicKN X'crulam and Tongaat are the stopping places of Mount Moreland and La Mercy. Near the former is the Umhloti Central Company's sugar estate. At La .MiTcy is a stone quarry, from which a good building stone is extracted and dressed. These operations can be witnessed from the train. Beyond the latter jilace some pretty pieces of bush-land are passed.
TONGAA T, in the post-cart da\'s, was known as the village of Victoria. It is the centre
of a thriving and prosperous district, land having risen in value very considerably since the extension of the railway some six years ago. There are two hotels — the " Rail- way." near the station, and the " Chelmsford." situated on the top of the hill, on the main road. Refreshments are also obtainable at the station. There are two places of worship — St. John's Church and the Wesleyan Chapel. A Public Hall was erected three years ago to commemorate Her late Majesty's Diamond Jubilee. Here all the public functions and entertainments are held. The village is also provided with a very creditable Ciovernment-aided School, with Library attached. Nicely-situated European residences dot the hills round about, whilst the heart of the village itself isalmost entirely inhabited bj' trading Arabs and Indians.
The largest sugar mill in Natal — that of the Tongaat Sugar Comjjany, Limited — is adjacent to the station, and is well deserving of a visit. It is equipped with the most
162
|
Altitude ■ |
. |
. |
64 feel |
|
Distance - |
_ |
29i miles |
|
|
Farbs- |
|||
|
Isl Single |
7(fi. |
Return |
1113. |
|
ind .. |
S>- |
■■ |
7/6. |
up-to-date sugar-making machiner}-, and the economic and labour-saving principles ot working in all the numerous channels, from the cane field to the "pocket," speak volumes for the progressive and enterprising directorate and management. The total area of the estate is about 6,000 acres, 5,000 of which are under cultivation. A considerable quantity of cane is also purchased from other planters. The output is roundh' 5,000 tons per season, and the full capacity of the mill is 7,000 tons. The cane fields are served by 24 miles of a light 24-inch-gauge railway, worked b\- a small locomotive and mules. This is in addition to cartage. The estate emploj's, in its various branches, some 1,200 Indians, besides a good few Europeans. The process of sugar manufacture has already been briefly described
■!S;~^:dtGsr^:^"j:-i. f^is&^s^^&dSfc-t^
CUTTiXd Sl'GAR CANE
/; ir. Clint V
under Moimt Edgecombe, and, with a few technical exceptions, this system also obtains at Tongaat.
Some twenty miles north of Tongaat, near the " Esidumbeni " Mission Station, is a curious cave, known as the " Indumeni," at one end of which a huge pillar of rock stands like a [letrified sentry. The roof of the cavern is formed bj^ a single stone weighing some two to three thousand tons, and the main chamber would shelter several hundred persons.
About a mile beyond the railway station, the Tongaat River is crossed by a strong iron structure, which serves the dual needs of train and wagon bridge. Further on the land- scape loses much of its sugar-cane mantling, and becomes more pastoral, although there are still occasional estates, as Eraser's Siding indicates. Umhlali Village stopping place is then reached. This is used by visitors to the Umhlali Beach (3i miles), where
163
RI\KR IMHIAII
.lllllwlt ■ ■ ■ 47fut
Pistance - JO^ miles
Fares ;
tsl Single, Wj3. Return, ISIS.
2nd „ 6110. „ 1013.
the fishing and bathing are said to be the best and safest on the northern coast. A good number of people are attracted hither, some of whom have cottages on the Beach.
CHAKA'S KRAAL is a pleasant little station. The district is favourable to all tlx.
coast cultivations. A coal seam has been discovered a few miles away.
Heading now for Stanger, Hulett's and Umvoti inter- mediate stopping stations are passed. The Groutville Mission Station is situated in the locality served by the latter. The country round for miles is of gentler cast and more extensively wooded, while the land is plentifully be- sprinkled with Kafir kraals.
STANGER is historic. It was the capital of the blood-thirsty Zulu king Chaka. From here the " conquerer, the scourge, and the pride of all South African natives," issued his
mandates of life and death. Here, too, it was that the usual fate of the tyrant overtook him and he fell slain by the spears of his own kinsmen. His burial place is within a few yards of the scene of his assassination — about a quarter of a mile from the present village. Truly, the Stanger of to-day is very different from the " Duguza," as it was, and still is, called by the natives. Now a peaceful little township, with a market square flanked by hotels and stores and other buildings, replaces the military huts, with their throngs of plumed warriors. Round the grave of Chaka a few erven have been reserved by the Government.
The place was named after Dr. Stanger, the first Surveyor-General of Natal. It has a strongly-built laager, Court Houses, and Magisterial Offices, two comfortable hotels (" Victoria" and " Stanger"), two churches (Church of England and Wesleyan Methodist), a large Government School, a Masonic Hall, a " Diamond Jubilee " Public Library and Reading Room, and a fine ceistellated Police Barracks. The pojnilation is about 250. I1
|
A lliluilt - |
_ |
U3/eel |
|
Distance - |
Fares: |
S2 miles |
|
7s/ ."tingle |
131- Return |
1916. |
|
2nd „ |
SIS. |
131- |
16.1
is live miles from the sea, and at the mouth of the Umvoti seaside cottages can he hired, good fishing and fair shooting being obtainable in the season.
Stanger itself is growing in importance, and, as is well known, it is the centre ol the largest tea plantations in the country. Although the railway arrived only in August, 1898, its benefits are evident, and a good fillip has been giv'en to the various cultivations — tea, sugar, tobacco, fruit, corn, and maize.
KAI-IR WITH HKAD-DRESS OF I' K A T H !•: R S OF THK "SAKAIU'LA" HIRD
Trappists, MarianuhiU
165
FICKINti TKA, KKARSNKV
CHAI'TKR IV
THE TEA DISTRICT.
A GLANCE AT KEA1<S.\EV AND ITS LI(;HT RAILWAY.
THE tea plantations of Messrs. J. L. Hulett & Sons. Ltd.. form one of the leading features in the industries of the Colony. They are situated at Kearsney, to the north- west of Stanger, and a light railway runs from Stanger Station to the factory, a distance of eight miles.
The construction of this admirable little line was undertaken on the initiative of Messrs. Hulett, and a laudable enterjirise it is. The total cost was /Ji8,5oo, which sum includes all station buildings and houses, engines, rolling stock, fencing, etc. It is built on the 2-feet gauge, and is splendidly laid with the 30 fh. type of metals. The country through which it passes is undulated and picturesque. The ruling gradient is one in 30, and the locomotives employed are respectively 50 and 30-horse power, the larger of which can haul with ease a load of 20 paying tons.
The railway was opened with great eclat on the 2nd January, 1901. It is worked by Messrs. Hulett's own staff of station-master, platelayer, and train men. and is equipped with two engines, two carriages, and five trucks, together witli all necessary buildings and appliances. First and third-class passengers are conveyed at a throughout rate each way of IS. first-class, and 6rf. third-class.
The line enters a very productive country, and, besides proving an immense advantage to Messrs. Hulett's businesses, and to the planters and farmers in the Kearsney and neigh- bouring districts, it at1r;irts a considerable native passenger traffic. The wagons carry a
166
net weight of five tons, being principally used for conveying the heavy tea traffic from the mill, and returning with coal and stores. Passengers and goods are of course transferred at the Stanger Station to the Government trains. The Kearsney train makes connection at Stanger with the passenger trains to and from Durban.
This novel and acceptable method of visiting the principal tea estates in Natal is de- lightful in itself, and only surpassed by the pleasure of touring over the tea manufactory and the splendid demesne of the founder. Sir James Liege Hulett. J. P., M.L.A., Speaker of the Legislative Assembly for many j-ears, and a very valuable and pro- gressive colonist. Those who elect to go to Kearsney ma\' reckon upon a kindly welcome from that gentleman, or his representative. Should the train not suit the tourist, how- ever, a most agreeable si.x miles drive from Stanger will land him at the mill doors.
The Kearsney Factory is one of the most perfect of tea establishments. It consists of a large building, constructed of brick and cement, five floors in height, giving a withering space and manufacturing capability of 1,500,000 lbs. of tea per annum. The dimensions of the main withering-floors are each 150 by 70 feet, to which there areannex- ures for engines, furnaces, and boilers. The work of all necessary departments in connec- tion with, not only the manufacture of tea, but its packing, are carried out under one roof. Boxes are locall\- made, very often from Natal timber. Steam saw-mills and carpenters are employed on the estate. The lead for lining the boxes and packing the tea is imported from London. The Factorj' is fitted with the most modem machinery', the whole of which is operated by electricity.
Messrs. Hulett's estate is composed of several plantations, the chief of which are Kearsney and Kirkley Vale. The total area of these is 13,500 acres, about 1,600 of which are under
167
tea. In addition to the foregoing, Kearsney Mill takes tlic ioai iroin some ol tiie othei plantations in the vicinity. The yield last season (September to June) was about 1,000,000 lbs. The total number of Indians employed in the tea industry is roundly i.ooo.
Apart from their large operations in the direction of tea. Messrs. Hulett are turning their attention to the cultivation and manufacture of sugar, two estates with a total area of 6,000 acres of land being the ])ro])erty of the Com|)any. A mill is being erected on one of these estates on the Umhlali River, the machinery for which will be the most modern that can be obtained. This factory will not only manufacture from the cane grown by the proprietors, but also from that of other planters.
There are several other excellent tea factories in the neighbourhood, and amongst others may be mentioned Messrs. Hindson & Co.'s. H. Balcombe & Sons', and Mr. Ashwell's.
|
* •« |
m |
Mm |
|
|
' ' 1 ' .1 l^^^^lt - |
1 |
||
|
? |
ici .^ |
RjiImt StalKm. CRoitnn rhe fu^eb. |
|
|
Lower lagelg f?aptd^^l |
1 |
1 |
A
CHAPTHR V. FROM STAXGKK TO ZUI-ULAXD.
I- IKK Stanger. the Stopping Station of New Guelderland occurs.
DAKN'AI.L is the next station, antl Sinkwazi is the last Stopping Place before
-— Lower Tugela is sighted. This portion of the coast is very
s^nlue'i fertile, and doubtless, with the facilities afforded by the railway, much will be done in the future to develop its agricultural and industrial capabilities. It is particularly
AltiluiU - Distance -
Fares
lit SinKlt. 151- Return, JJI6.
:nd ., 101- „ 1.11-
favourable to tea and sugar.
LOWER TUGELA. As its name expresses, this station is situated on the banks of the
largest and most historic river in the country, the Tugela here dividing the two large territories of Natal and Zulu- land which are connected about a mile beyond the Tugela Station, by the finest and most massive bridge in the whole This gives a good idea of the breadth of the oft-times treacherous
AUilude - 47 jut
Distance - ■ 69i miles
Fares:
lit Single. 17 6. Return, 2613.
2nd „ ;;/*. .. 1716.
Colony — 1,330 feet long, stream.
168
The village is prettily situated in a valley, and contains two small hotels, and one or two private habitations. Fort Pearson, one of the first fortifications formed during the Zulu War of 1879, and the burial place of a number of British soldiers, is about six miles off, on the south bank of the river. From this point that War may be said to have started.
bMbuv
KSHOWIC POST CART
Lower Tugela was formerly the terminus of the North Coast line and the station for Eshowe.
The first section of the Zululand Extension now being open, the daily Post-c.\rt service with EsHow'E has been transferred to
169
GINGINHLOVU FOR ESHOW'E. The distance to Eshowe Irom this station is 17
1 miles, and the post-cart fare is 15s. The route hes through
nisiame - - - «9i iriiVts an Hiteresting and rugged country, parts 01 which asjjire to
Fares:
Isl Singlt. 22;6. Return, U;9.
.'»</ .. til- ., 2ZI6.
some magnihcence.
At the time of writing the Zululand extension was open to Empangeni 53 miles from Tugela and 122 from Durlian. The railway bcjond is making rapid progress towards its terminus, Hlabisa.
ESHOWE, the principal town in Zululand. has a total po])ulation of 700, and is charm- ingly picturesque. It is situated on a table-land, about i.Soo feet above the level of the sea, and the climate is exceedingly fine and exhilarating. The town is remarkably well set out, English-looking, and clean, and the residences and other erections are stylish and prettily embowered. There is every reason to believe that, with the nearer railway com- munication. Eshowe will occupy a leading jilace amongst the health and ])leasure resorts of the Colony. It has everything to commend it.
There are some good buildings. Governmental and otherwise, viz ; the Episcopalian Church (or Cathedral. Eshowe being the seat of the Bishopric). Government School, Central Gaol, Residency, Court buildings, Post and Telegraph offices. Natal Bank, and Masonic Hall. There are, of course, the usual stores and shops, two good hotels (" Eshowe " and " Provincial "), Wesleyan Chapel, several scholastic establishments, a Library, various Athletic and Social Clubs. Ritfe Association, and Cadet Corps. There is also a Hospital, established in commemoration of the late Queen \'ictoria's Jubilee. It does a good and much appreciated work, while llu- Xnrwegian Mission Station, which presides over some
170
500 natives, is a pattern of usefulness. Another of the town's unique enjoyments is the large open-air and secluded Swimming Bath. This has been made in one corner of the lovely " Bush " and can be exhausted and replenished with fresh river water at will. The " Bush " referred to encompasses some hundred acres of enchanting woodland- Pathways traverse it in all directions, and there are the most beautiful avenues and leafy alcoves for those who wish to hear
" The sweet leaves playing with the subtle air. In dainty murmuring,"
— or Otherwise.
Eshowe has a small garrison, stationed just outside. This is supplemented by a splendid Native Police Corps, the Nongies, whose embattled barracks are on the west side of the town.
The district is well timbered and watered and most capable for general farming and pasturing pursuits, but its situation so far away from the railway restricts any very great advancement being made. A considerable local trade is done in bricks.
Eshowe possesses some historic renown. Amongst the many grassy hills and mountains which surround it, that of Signal Hill, a mile or so away, is pre-eminent in height and repu- tation. It was the signalling station with the Bluff during the Zulu War — hence its name. It will be remembered that, after the Isandhlwana disaster, Eshowe was fortified, and held
NATIVES TR.WELLINC;
B. ir. Cancy
by Colonel Pearson and 1,300 men for two months against an expected attack from the main Zulu armv. The assault was never delivered, however, and the beleaguered town was eventually relieved b}' Lord Chelmsford's column. The site of the old fort and the militarj- grave-j-ard will be found some two miles out of town, near the Norwegian Mission Station.
In passing, it is noteworthy that the residence of the well-known Zulu Chief Dinizulu (son of the great Cetj^wayo), who rose in rebellion against British authority in 1SS8, was
convicted of high treason, banished to St. Helena tor ten years, and returned to his native land in 1808, is situated about a mile from Eshowe.
MELMOTH is reached via Eshowe, and is 30 miles north of the latter place. It is the centre of a Dutch farm . g locality, and the seat of the Magistracy of the Emtonjaneni Dis- trict. There are but few buildings beside the Court House, Residency, Natal Police Barracks, and Dutch Reformed Church.
ULUNDI, near the seat of the Mahlabatini Magistracy, the place of Cetywayo's royal kraal, and scene of the last great battle of the Zulu War, is about 30 miles north of Melmoth.
MOUNT PROSPECT, which figured in the Zululand operations during the Boer War, is not far from Melmoth. while PORT ITALA, whose successful and heroic defence against the formidable attack under Commandant General Louis Botha (in his attempt to re- invade Natal in October, igoi) excited such universal admiration, is about 30 miles away.
CHAPTER VI. CONCERNING ZULULAND.
THE territory of Zululand was annexed to, and became a piovince of Natal in December, 1897. Its area is approximately 10,450 square miles, and its population 1,263 Europeans, 213,000 natives, and about 100 Indians.
Amatongaland, the northern extremitj- of the province, gives a further 5,300 square miles, and a native population of 40,000. Zululand is divided into eleven Magisterial Districts, viz. : Eshowe, Emtonjaneni, Nqutu, Mahlabatini, Ndwandwe, Ubombo, Ingwa- vuma, Umlalazi, Lower Umfolozi, Hlabisa, and Nkandhla. The first three are connected by telegraph, and the next four by telephone, with the rest of the Colony. The remainder are unconnected. The seats of Magistracy are, on an average, 30 miles apart. Nkandhla is noted for its ]>roximity to the most beautiful and extensive forest in the country. The Insuzi Goldfteld is about 15 miles therefrom. The Nondweni and Denny Dalton Gold- fields are dealt with under Dundee — page 124.
With the exception of the townships of Eshowe and Nondweni, and that jjortion 01 the Emtonjaneni District including Melmoth, the whole of the land in |the province is unalien- ated Crown land, and occupied almost solely by natives. A few traders have established stores in various parts, their license to trade being their only title to remain in the countrv. Under this license they are bound to provide accommodation for travellers.
In the low-lying portions of the country, malarial fever is prevalent during the summer months.
The roads to all districts are good. With the exception of the post-cart services between Ginginhlovu and Eshowe. Dundee and Nondweni and Nqutu. there are no established facilities for reaching the different parts of the province, and all travelhng has to be done on horse-back or by private conveyance.
Native education is conducted by the Bishop of Zululand, and the Norwegian, Swedish. Catholic, and other Mission* and Societies, their schools beins? aided by grants from Govern- ment.
Zululand sends one Member to the Legislative Council, and two Members to the Legis- lative Assembly.
The Province has progressed steadily dunng the last few years, and the new railway line, which will run along the coast lands, terminating at the extensive Hlabisa Coalfields, near
172
St. Lucia Bay, a distance of a hundred miles from Tugela, will prove a very material in- centive to rapid and important developments in the future. The districts served are suitable for the cultivation of sugar, tea, coffee, tobacco, maize and rice, and will undoubtedly draw many enterprising settlers, when arrangements are made for the open- ing up of the lands. Zululand is well watered, splendidly wooded, and rich in mineral deposits — coal, gold, copper, mica, and asbestos having been found. Many schemes are on foot for their development. India-rubber is another large possession of Zululand. Game is fairly plentiful, and specimens of most of the fauna indigenous to the country are preser\'ed, but may not be shot without special permission. The rivers Amatikulu, Umhlalazi, Umfolosi, and Umyalazi afford excellent fishing. The future of Zululand is full of promise.
ZEBR.\S
173
irr
,s?*^ <
A LAGOON ON THE SOUTH COAST
PART SIX.
THE SOUTH COAST
BRANCH LINE.
" That o'er th'ifitcrminable ocean icreatbe " Your crisped smiles." — AeschvlI'S.
THF BEACH, I'MHLALl
* , . . . In the torrid clime
Dark heaving ; boundless, endless, and sublime — The image of Eternity — the throne Of the Invisible ; even from out thy shrine The monsters of the deep are fnade, each zone Obeys thee; thou goest forth, dread, fathomless, alone." —
Byron ( Childe Harold).
PART SIX.
CHAPTER I. HINTS TO TOURISTS AND OTHERS.
THE South Coast Line is furnished with an excellent service of trains, and the times of certain of them are altered on Saturdays and Mondays to suit the convenience of visitors to the several week-end resorts. At most of the seaside places, cottages on the beach can be hired for varying periods.
The fishing and shooting are good the coast through. All kinds of shell-fish are found in abundance at many points along the coast, and at the mouths of some of the rivers.
A warning should be given to bathers not to venture upon a "dip" before assuring themselves as to the safe spots. At some places the slope of the beach is so acute, and the back-wash so exceedingly strong, that an element of danger would be incurred by ignoring this precaution.
Besides their many attractions and health-giving properties, the various resorts also afford great scope for the student of botany, entomology, geology and mineralogy, naturalists and other scientists, as well as artists and photographers.
The products of the South Coast lands are treated under the respective stations and districts.
N
WESTS SIAIION, HLVH-, DVRBAN
|
Alliludt ■ |
57 feet |
||
|
Distance ■ |
53 »ii7es |
||
|
Far |
ss: |
||
|
Isl Single |
IIS. |
Reliirn |
213. |
|
2n,i .. |
II- |
•■ |
116. |
CHAPTHK II.
FROM SOUTH COAST JUNCTION" TO ISIPINGO, INCLUDING THE
BLUFF LINK.
DKviATiNG from the main line at South Coast Junction, the branch train bowls along on a level track, past the Natal Match Factory and the Chemical Manure Mill, across the bridge of the river L^mhlatuzan which trails through a country singularly pretty and well foliaged. through bright red cuttings, into the Junction Station of the Bluff Line,
CLAIRMONT. This is a well-known picnicking place. It is also being developed
as an acquisition to the suburbs of Durban. The wonder is that its residential suitability remained so long undiscovered, considering the good train service, the pleasant situation, and the fact that it is the centre of good brickfields and stone quarries. In the vicinity is a large Catholic Native Settlement.
The BLUFF LINE radiates from Clairmont. and sweeps round the edge of the bay, passing the undermentioned Stopping Places in the order given: JACOB'S, WENTW'ORTH, KING'S REST (named after the doughty Richard King), FYNNLAND (this in memory of Henry Fynn, who, with Lieutenants Farewell and King, were the three recognised leaders of the early English S3ttlers), and NEW BRIGHTON, terminating at
WESTS, the headland station of the Bluff. This alternative mode of reaching,
or returning from the lavourite pleasure-ground of the Durbanites is greatly used.
The Bluff Line is destined to rise to much greater im- portance in tne future. Portions of the richly wooded slopes are no longer the sole haunt of monkeys, bush-buck, reptiles, and birds : man has set his habitation there, and the beautiful Berea has a rival. A tew years hence, too, and the " Bluff Side " will be a large component of the Harbour. On leaving Clairmont, the train cuts through grassy plains to
.iltilude - - - 9leel
Distance - - /^J mites
Fares:
Isl Single, Ij Return, 216.
2nd „ 113. ., 119.
178
MEREBANK, which is chiefly notable as the site of the largest Boer Refugee Camp ^„. _, 1 in Natal. At the time of writing some 8,500 Dutchmen,
Altitude - - - es/eet , , ■, , , ,
Distance - ■ - s^mUes] vvomeu, and children were concentrated there.
1st Single. 21- Return, 31- Beyond Merebank, large sugar-plantations and mealie-
- — " — — — ' fields open before the view, thick clumps of supple bamboo
bend with measured grace in the breeze the thatched dwellings of the ubiquitous coolie are scattered far and near, and the dusk\r tenants may be espied in the cane-fields, or diligent in other directions. The siding to the Umlaas Wool-washery and Sugar and Mealie-mills is shortly passed, the Umlaas river itself is crossed by the second longest bridge in the Colony (i,i6o feet), and
|
AUiluile - Distance - Isl Single 2nd ,. |
39 feet 9% miles Fares : 2!6. Return. 319. IIS. ,. 216. |
|
Altitude - Distance - 1st Single 2nd .. |
29 feet ■ Hi miles Fares: 219. Return. 412. IIW. ,. 219. |
REUNION, a quiet little station, bearing land, is overtaken.
in the heart of sugar-
ISIPINGO, the ne.xt station, is a livelier place, but much of the importance it boasted when the terminus ot the branch, has departed. It possesses a church, a chapel, a Government-aided school, two hotels, a library, and various stores. It is a convenient distance from Durban, and, by reason of its good road, is much visited by c\'clists and others.
Before the more southern seaside places were accessible, Isipingo was a favourite resort, but the beach being two miles away, it is now less popular, although its attractions, boating and fishing on the lagoon and river, and rambles on the beach and over the sea- worn rocks, are still enjoyed b}' a good number of visitors, especially on public holidays and during week-ends. It should not be omitted from record that in the Isipingo cemetery will be found the tomb of Richard King.
SVGAR MILL AND CANE FIELDS
179
THE HI\CII. ISllMNCiO
CHAPTI'K III.
FROM ISIPINCil) TO LOWHR UMKOMAAS.
Tin: journey from Isipingo to the stopping place of Umbogintwini, through fields on fields of waving sugar-cane, garnished by giant bamboo, wild banana, and palm trees, and enclosed by a well-wooded country reposing in the most picturesque disorder, is but a foretaste of the charming kaleidoscopic scenery for which this line is so justly renowned.
Before Amanzinitoti is reached, the way winds ;is;ccndiii,i,'ly ihroui^h a long dense forest of bush, natural and deliciouslv cool.
ON THR SOITH COAST BRANCH LINE
1 80
AMANZIMTOTI
AMANZIMTOTI (Kafir for " sweet waters ") is one of tfie best known of the South Coast
resorts, and well merits its native name. As a Saturday-
|
A Itiludc - |
IS |
ted |
||
|
Distance - |
- |
//J »ii7« |
||
|
Fares |
||||
|
1st Single, 416. |
Rettltt |
, IS,9. |
||
|
2nd , |
31- |
iiti |
to-Monday rendezvous it is of especial suitability, being within only an hour and a quarter's ride of Durban. The hotel is commandingly situated in terraced grounds, and, like most of the hotels on the South Coast, is commodious and well appointed. It controls a splen- did view of the pleasure-giving features of the neighbourhood — on the left hand, the sea and shelly beach : on the right, the broad lagoon and reed>' isle, the graceful river, and the bushy undulations which e.\- tend for miles.
Boating, shooting, fishing, bathing, and tennis comjiose the genera] enjoyments, while the artistic and photographic eye will discover numerous scenes worthy of attention. The beauties of the river, which is navigable for several miles, are bj' no means obtrusive ; they require to be courted, but. when found, he would be an unimpressionable mortal
iSi
who was not charmed with tlie many captivating spots along its palm-fringed banks, which rise at points to almost jierpendicular heights on which the wild banana, aloe, and candelabra-like euphorbia, tower assertively through the sub-tropical thickets. Those who wish to be " far from the madding crowd " cannot do i)etter than seek the sweetly quiet nooks beside the Amanzimtoti.
WOOniAND SCE.NKKV
Some three or (our miles distant there is a large native Mission Station, and a \isit to the settlement would prove most interesting.
Advancing southwards, we catch the first glimpse ot the ocean. The sight is entrancing, and, with Longfellow's Count Arnaldos, one longs to learn the Secrets of the Sea. With the e.xception of an occasional peep at the glistening waters, the railway path lies through lich tropical
L MKOMAAS
IS2
i
LAGOON AMANZiM roll
WINKLE SPRUIT, the next halting place, is a favourite camping-out situation. It is a pretty little spot which takes its name, not from the lesser light in the Pickwickian firmament, but probably from the tiny shell-fish found on the clusters of black rocks at the mouth of the stream, observed in passing towards
ILLOVO. Although this excellent resort does not lay claim to the "blue ribbon" of
watering-places, yet it does not fall far short of its attractive congener, Umkomaas. It is a delightful seaside village, and is immensely popular with day trippers, week-end excursionists, and those whose period of rest and relaxation
|
Altitude - |
7Sjeet |
||
|
Distance - |
Fares |
221 '«'l" |
|
|
1st Single |
519. |
Return |
. SIX. |
|
2nd ,. |
3tin. |
319. |
NELSON S DRII-T, VMKOMAAS
/. E. Middlebrook
183
is limited. The railway station is at the river, Init the best access to the sands is from the Beach Stopping-Place about three-quarters of a mile beyond. There is tnl\' one hotel at Illuxo. The ^liooting and fishing are good, and boating, bathing, and other pastimes equal to an\-. It is an incident worth}' of notice that the Border Mounted Rifle Butts are fixed at Illovo.
So far as the cultivations in this and the lower districts are concerned, the i)rincipal are ^ugar, maize, tobacco, and fruits. A well-known sugar-mill may be \-isited some few miles down the river.
UMGABABA. the next point of call, is not a station as yet. only a Stoi)]>ing-Placc. It is lonely and little visited, save by a solitary curlew, ibis, or wild duck, and an occasional geologist or seeker of shells. It is a lovely spot, however, abounding, like many other places along the coast, in arum lilies, bulrushes, and the most delicate, as well as the hardiest of ferns and other ])lants. Its euphonions name should some day belong to an ideal retreat. Crossing the bridge of the river which here carves its way into the ocean, and skirting sylvan dips and breaks in the bush, which reveal the shore and the swelling, effer\-escing sea, we soon detect Lower Umkomaas, perched on the south side of the wide estuarj' of the Umkomanzi. Passing over the river's iron viaduct, a splendid structure 825 feet long, we curve beneath the breezy heights on which the village is set, and turn into the station.
UMKOMAAS has countless admirers, and well merits its leading position amongst . the South Coast health and pleasure places. Healthily
Allilmir 1:11,1: . . , r . ,
DUtauce - .ii'i >m/« I Situated at an elevation of from 200 to 300 feet above
hi sineii.719. ^Keiiirn. HIS. ' the sca ; surrounded by hills; within a stone's throw of "'" " ^^'' " ''^' a wide and beautiful river; endowed on the one hand
with a clear perspective of fine sands, and on the other with broad tumbled masses of metamorphic rocks ; replete with two roomy and comfortable hotels and several private cottages; within two hours reach of Durban, and yet apparently hundreds of miles from the busy haunts of man, it is not a matter for great sur])rise that l"mkomaas is the favoured resort of those who desire an invigorating, quiet, restful holiday, or merelj' the pleasure- makers who come to fish, boat, shoot, bathe, and heartily enjoy themselves generally.
Not the least charming of the many means of whiling a morning away, is to row to the Drift, a distance of two to three miles, alight, and seek the old, rambling, hostelry of the Nelsons, celebrated in the punt-and-post-cart dajs.
After some refreshment, the traveller may be inclined to push still further u]) the ri\er which is even more picturesque, or to stroll to the top of the hill and scan the sharp curves and timbered covering of the sun-lit land, and trace the sinuous course of the river from its issue as a silvery streak to the broad reflective waters at the Drift. Some may prefer to break the journey one way to fish or shoot, and cajiital sjwrt is i)romised ; others may devote their eyes and ears exclusively to nature and her harmonious jiarts — the hills and valleys ; preci])itous forests and blossoming dells ; frowning rocks and cultivated ground : jubilant tree birds and swift-winged water fowl ; butterflies flitting from reed to flower ; the shrill tremolo of the cicadas ; the rhythmic splash of the oar ; the swish of the tiny tree-sequestered waterfall near the Drift ; even the rude hives of the Indian — all these, together with the blue unfathomable heavens, compose a jiicture-song singularly rich, beautiful, and real.
Before departing from Umkomaas. with its numerous charms, it should be added that the rising and setting of the sun are oft-times magnificent, the latter frecpiently recalling
1 84
ON THE UMKOirAAS
the elegant lines of the talented wile of the poet Southey :
" Majestically slow The sun goes down in glory — Wave above, wave below, Orange and green, and gold. Russet and crimson —
Like an embroidered zone, ancestral woods Close round on all sides : Those again begirt In wavy undulations of all hues To the horizon's verge by the deep forest."
185
CHAPTER IV.
FROM LOWER U.MKOMAAS TO ALEXANDRA JUNCTION, AND THE UMZINTO BRANCH.
" Il7i<!»i up some woodland dale we catch The many-twinkling smile of ocean, Or with pleased ear bewildered watch
His chime of restless motion ; Still as the surging waves retire They seem to gasp with strong desire. Such signs of love old Ocean gives. We cannot choose but think he lives."
Keble.
THE line-side scenery beyond Umkomaas, and extending for forty-six miles to North Shepstone, is incom])arab]y beautiful. It is, admittedly, the loveliest railway ride in Africa.
Now we skirt the fringe of the seashore, rock-paved, and utterly deserted ; the scene is changed, we pierce the sun-illumined avenues of primeval bush, and hear the softened murmuring of the ocean ; creeper-trellised bowers appear for a moment and are lost ; forests of the tall and tattered banana, and huge plumy palm-trees succeed the traceries of plants and blooms ; a startled buck liounds swiftly to cover ; a school of monkeys are heard chattering together, and a long-tailed bird forges with difficulty through the air. Again the as]iect changes to the broad, white sands. Looking towards the horizon, a double-funnelled steamer is descried, seemingly motionless, and over head a sea-bird sails in graceful undulations towards it. In a little while green bluffs curtain the view, then broad park-like lands are passed, whose gentle slopes are laid with short, elastic grass, decorated by English-looking shrubs, until the spiky dwarf palm and its kind recur, recalling the tropical.
So on and on we travel, crossing numerous rivers, narrow and wide, open and lagooned, through scenes of unsurpassed exquisiteness.
1 86
RAILWAY BRIDGE, SOUTH COAST LINE
icS7
Having in anticii)ation sketched the scenic parts of the route to the terminus of the South Coast line, we will explain the further Stations, Stopping-Places, and points of particular note as they are approached.
Between Unikomaas and the following Station, Park Kynie, there are four Stopping- Places, namely : Widenham. Clansthal, Crook's Siding, and Scottsburg. The first two Sidings arc witlinut sjiecial interest, init shortly after passing Clansthal, Green Point, with its barrel- topped pyramidal beacon, will be seen, while another beacon, surmounted by a triangle will be espieil on the hill behind, to the riglit of the train. These beacons, which can be seen in clear weather for over ten miles at sea, point in the direction of the Aliwal shoal, a treacherous, submerged reef about two and a half miles from the shore.
CROOK'S SlDIXCi is amidst a sugar- verdured country, and the prettily-situated mill seen in the right hand distance when crossing the lagoon ot the Umpamlxuiyoni, makes an effective break in the landsca]ie.
SCOTTSI'I'InC, 1i:i'-- bien founded near the mouth ol this river. It is ihe principal
fishing ground on the Natal Coast, and the industrious rishermen may be observed packing their catch, or making ready again for sea.
The Scottsburg lighthouse, on the hill to the right, is .iiiu !>. Uie southern of the two lights which mark the vicinitj' of the dangerous shoal already mentioned, the northern light being exhibited from a similar lighthouse about five miles distant.
There are several cottages and an hotel at Scottsburg, and a good number ol visitors seek its healthy seclusion during the j'ear.
PARK RYNIE, by the sea, is noted for its salubrity and the English charm of scenery. The beautiful park lands, which command an unhindered
Alliludc - .>, '■ . 1 1 1-
I i>i5ifliiic view ol the sea, are now iieing opened up lor building
)ii Singfc. \u% ^ Heiutn. ; luirposcs, and befoic long, another enticing seaside hamlet,
I l!I "- 'JL " ^^ with a commodious hotel, should be in evidence. There
are easy and agreeable walks around, and a good road leads to Umzinto, about six miles distant, passing a race-course of some local repute. Two miles south of Park Rynie, and on the lelt hand side of the railway line, a fine reddish granite is being worked.
|
Aitxtudv Disitttin |
JS iinUs |
|
|
.'..' s '. : |
1-AKLS: < , '.' '} h'eti |
>n. 11 in. 'Ji9. |
23 li'
LAGOON, ALKXANDKA JINCTION
iS8
ON THI--.
UMZINTO BRANCH
|
Altitude - |
31 leet |
|
Dt'.tance |
■I4\ miles |
|
Fares : |
|
|
1st Single, |
UI3. Return. 16111. |
|
2nd „ |
716. „ 1113. |
ALEXANDRA JUNCTION is a station on the lagoon of the Umzinto River, at the
joining of the Umzinto Branch. The environment is exceedingly choice, and a lovely view is gathered from the hill behind the station, where an hotel is seen. Similar outdoor enjoyments are obtainable here as at other resorts along the coast, and the provision of a few beach cottages would do much to popularise the place. A Railway refreshment-room will be found on the station platform, and tra- vellers are allowed the usual twenty minutes for meals.
THE UMZINTO BRANCH.
The scenery along this little branch is superli. and would alone warrant a visit to Umzinto. One may easily imagine himself transported for the moment to some romantic part of Wales. The railway runs through a long, densely-wooded valley, through which the river Umzinto meanders, now silently, as it glides by tall, rustling reeds and curtseying sugar-cane, now noisily as it rushes foaming down its rocky bed. Side- vales retreat at sudden intervals from the greater valley, which is indeed
"... One vast mass
Of mingling shade, whose magnificence
Narrow vales embosom."
Broad ferns, brilliantly-coloured flowers, and blossoming trees form continuous decoration, while hills are piled on hills revealing the presence of many-hued granite. The line follows the winding river for several miles, and some verv heavj- cuttings have had to be blasted. The only station on the Branch, although there are several sidings tapping the sugar-cane fields, is
189
SUGAR MILL, ESl'ERAN/A
Aliunde 170 Jeet
Dislance -10 miles
Fakes-
Isl Single. 1216. Rcliirn. im.
2nit .. SH. .. 1216.
ESPERANZA, hollow-set and surrounded by liigh hills, niostlv sugar-bearing. The
extensive Sugar-mill and Distillery of the Esperanza Estate is here. It comprises some 13.000 acres, and gives em- ployment to over 1,000 Indians. The prolific Equefa district contributes a large quantity of the cane. The neighbouring country is greatly contorted, and the singular formation would point to the undoubted existence of metals, both gold and copper. The Umzinto district has received some attention from prosjjectors. and gold has been found at Dumisa. on the Highflats Road : alluvial pockets have also been discovered in the Equefa \'alley, but no efforts of any magnitude have been made to test the actual worth of the findings.
I M/LMO CHLKCH
190
|
AitituUe - |
276 feet |
||
|
Distance - |
51 miles |
||
|
Fares : |
|||
|
Isl Single, |
131- |
Return |
1916. |
|
2nd „ |
SIS. |
■• |
131- |
UMZINTO is a large-sized, pretty, healthy village, 400 feet above the sea, in the vicinity
of some of the finest sugar-land in the Colony. The hiUy approach to the main portion of the townlet is picturesque, and the Public Hall and adjoining tennis courts and recreation grounds passed on the way, are very pleasantly situated. Umzinto is the seat of magistracy for the division, and possesses such useful and necessary buildings as a Magistrate's Court, Post and Telegraph Offices, Police Barracks, Volunteer Drill Hall, Armoury (this being the headquarters of the Border Mounted Rifles), Government School, Church of the Province of South Africa, and a Hospital. There are several mills, wagon-builders and blacksmiths' establishments, four hotels, and a good few stores. The population consists of about 500 Europeans and a large number of Indians. The latter have their own schools and hospital. There is a Roman Catholic Mission in the neighbourhood. Besides the staple sugar, mealies, tea. tobacco, and fruit are important productions.
Umzinto is 6J miles from the South Coast Line at Alexandra Junction, and the Branch train makes connection with the several passenger trains to and from Durban.
BRIDGE OVER THE UMZUMI
CHAPTER V.
FROM ALEXANDRA JUNCTION TO PORT SHEPSTONE.
RETURNING to the South Coast Line. Between Alexandra Junction and L'mtwalumi, the next station, the Stopping Places of Pennington, Isezela, and Ifafa are located. Ifafa is the best known of the three, and is one of the latest recruits to the health and holiday-resorts on this coast. The estuarv of the river of that name is a striking sheet of water, and the general attractions are in no way inferior to those at other points, the only drawback being that at the time of writing there was no hotel in the vicinity.
191
tSi
|
AllihiiU |
lUjecl |
|||
|
Distance |
Fares |
56 miles |
||
|
tsl Single |
ni- |
Return |
211- |
|
|
2ml |
914. |
Nl- |
IMIUMIMI KIVKK AM) KAII.WAV BKIDCK
LMTWALUMI is be- coming a worthy rival of the other watering places. Somewhat simi- lar to Umkomaas, with a good expanse of beach, a broad river, splendid inland scenery, and all the pleasures derivable therefrom, it deserves its increasing popularity. The present cottage accommodation on the beach is inadequate, and doubtless an hotel will be erected ere long. Umhiungwa is the succeeding Stopping Place, and
UMZl'MRl i< tin- nr\t station, and the last one before Shepstone is reached, and
unless there be passengers to join or alight at the two oTimii. intermediate Stopping Places, Melville and Umtentweni,
AltmuU Distance
ht >!;■/<
wl-g^^Rriurn 2312 thc train is given a clear run to tliat Port.
1619.
Before discussmg Port Shepstone, a few observations aiient
SOL' 111 COAST LINK
ig2
the railway and the country through which it passes may prove not uninteresting. The final section of the line from Umtwalumi to North Shepstone was opened amidst much local jubilation, by His Excellency the Governor, Sir Henry McCallum, in July, 1901. The en- gineering difficulties in the construction of the line wiD have been appreciated, the chief of which was the crossing of 'the abnormal number of rivers and lagoons. Between Park Rynie and the present terminus (36^ miles) there are twenty-two rivers, involving no fewer than 5,730 feet of bridging. The two longest bridges are those over the Ifafa and Umtwalumi, 720 and 630 feet long respectively. It is manifest, therefore, not only from this fact, but from the fresh and exuberant appearance of the country throughout, that the natural irrigation of the land is exceptional, and with the railway advantages now existent, immense encouragement will be given, not only to the agricultural and general farming spheres of labour, but also to the proving and development of minerals, granite, marble, and other rich deposits in this section of the Colony, which operations, with a few e.xceptions, have hitherto been neglected.
I'ORT SHEPSTONE
|
A IHlude ■ |
200)eet |
|
Distance - |
77 miles |
|
Fares; |
|
|
Jst Single, 1913. Return |
2SIII. |
|
2nd „ 12110. |
1913. |
PORT SHEPSTONE is situated at the mouth of the river Umzimkulu, and was created
a full fiscal port in 1893. It is the magisterial centre of the Division of Lower Umzimkulu, extending from Umzumbi River on the North, to the Umtarnvnina on the South, an area of about sixty miles in length, by twenty-five in breadth. The settlement was pioneered in 1877, and is named after one of Natal's ablest and most honoured colonists, the late Sir Theophilus Shepstone. The railway terminates on the north bank of the estuary, and the village, which is established upon a ridge of hills on the south side, is gained by the Government punt or ferry-boat. Train passengers are taken over free of charge, but other persons, animals, and goods are crossed according to tariff. )Vhen the suggested further extension of the railway is effected, the estuary will be bridged about three-quarters of a mile from the sea. The line will then run at the base of the hills on the South side, and round the promontory upon which Signal Station stands, the Railway Station being transferred to this point.
Unfortunately, the River Umzimkulu is choked at the mouth by a sand-spit, and the open_|channel to the sea at the time of writing was very narrow, with an average
193
PORT SHF.PSTONE, LOOKING IP THF. RIVKK
depth of from 4 feet 9 inches, to 5 Icet 3 inches. However, the condition of the harbour is being rapidly improved under the energetic direction of the Govern- ment. A considerable sum of money has already been spent in building a new training wall, with the object of securing a much wider entrance, to be maintained sufficiently deep by dredging, assisted by the scour of the river, to admit the safe entrance of bigger vessels. When this is possible, and other contemplated wharf improvements are carried out, Shepstone will rank high amongst the ports on the south-cast coast. There is, unquestionablv, a future in store for this place, as, apart from its commercial value as a port, it is destined to become the foremost marine health and pleasure resort
0.\ THK IMyJIMKULl', PORT SHEPSTONE
194
in the Colony. The possibilities are obvious. The better harbour would permit travellers on pleasure or on business bent, to land or embark here at any time of the year; circular trips could be arranged, giving the passenger the benefit of the equally enjoyable journej' by land or sea ; launches could be placed on the beautiful river, which even now is accessible to this class of boat for some eight miles; and in numerous ways the natural advantages of Port Shepstone could be more pleasurably and profitably emplo\ed.
A few notes may be given as to the trade of the Port. The district is very fertile, and splendidly suited for the cultivation of sugar, tea, maize, and the various tropical fruits. The Umzimkulu Sugar Estate and the Barrow Green Tea Estate, situated a little distance up the river, are noted for the excellence of their respective productions. Lime, cement and marble are also important items, and the railway facilities should increase the outputs very considerably. The fibre industry is being re-experimented with, and good
^ ^
;.v:
.^
ST. HELEN S ROCK, U.MZIMKULU RI\ER, PORT SHEPSTONE
results are anticipated. In addition to the foregoing, wool, hides, horns, farm-produce, and wagon -wood are larger traffics. Shepstone also boasts a prolific fishing ground.
The Village of Shepstone asv Environs : Glancing across the river, and sweeping the gaze over the southern ridge, which rise slow and unwooded at the sea, and ascends to lofty forest-hills, seamed by sombrous vales, little can be seen of the village. It nestles on the foliaged summit of the eminence, above the square- towered Custom House. Turning to the north side, which is somewhat similarly fashioned, but few dwellings can be preceived, although the Government lands sold as building sites — one of the blessings resulting from the railway — will doubtless soon be occupied. The broad and beautiful river divides the settlement, and the sea confines it on the east.
195
Although Shepstone contains all the buildings and residences incidental to a magistracy and township, it is meagre in size for a watcring-jilace and port, but, with the building operations now ]irocecding, a little while should see it equipped with the requisite ac- commodation for a large influx of visitors, besides the many settlers who are sure to be attracted hither. To the enterprising there are splendid opportunities at Shepstone with its unique and altogether ideal situation. In no other part of Natal has Nature triumphed in her scenic skill as here.
Coming to the individual attractions of Port Shepstone, the finest is, of course, its regal river, which is navigable to the first of the three rapids, a distance of about eight miles from the mouth. Ordinary row-boats can proceed two miles beyond, and Hat-bottomed ones even another five miles. So many ha\"e descanted upon the glories of this rejilica of the Rhine-like Dart of Devon, that the bare features need only he given here. The first two and a half miles of the river are straight, and maintain a width of a hundred and sixty yards ; six miles further on to St. Helen's Rock and the first rapids, an average width of one hundred and twelve yards is secured. The stream then narrows to about one hundred jards. The sea affects the river for twelve miles, and turtle, salmon, and iguanas are common sport therein. The first object to claim attention is the unfordable drift. Punt and ferry-boats are seen in use connecting the main road from Durban to the Cape Colony. Just beyond the drift, on (he high hills to the right, the Barrow Green Tea Estate is situated, and a mile or so further down, on the left bank of the river, the Umzimkulu Sugar Mill will be observed. The closelv-packed thatched huts, built on a slope, shelter some 250 of the coolies attached to the latter estate. About eight miles from the mouth, and in the vicinity of the aloe (fibre) jilantations, and the celebrated St. Helen's Rock, the first rapids are encountered. Small vessels drawing 5 feet b inches of water can run thus far. In order to visit the majestic precipice, which conceals a deep cave, or to push up the river to the Marble Quarries, the launch must be exchanged for the row-boat. The first and second rapids are in close proximity to one another, but the third are some distance higher up, and occasionally im])assable. The question of diverting the stream at this point is now receiving the consideration of the Government. Just beyond the last rapids, the pretty Umzimkulwana is received into the main stream. Alighting at the point where a shed will be noticed, and following the tram-line up the grand valley of the Umzimkulwana a matter of a mile, the visitor will reach the lime-kilns of the Marble Delta Company. The extent of the white dazzling crystalline rock, which is burned to produce this article, seems tmending. Both the lime and the cement — made by admixing the river mud — are said to be equal to the Home productions. By continuing down the valley, about a mile and a half beyond the Limeworks, the lovely retreat called the " Grotto " will be found.
Returning to the Umzimkulu, and proceeding towards the next bend in the river, the pathway which leads to the famous Marble Quarries will be discovered on the left bank. These well merit a visit, and " to ramble through Nature's Marble Halls and revel in beauty primeval," is indeed luxurious. The deposits are over thirty square miles in extent, and in some parts over a thousand feet thick. The marble varies in colour from red to white, and great results are expected when quarrying commences in earnest.
The Marble quarries generally terminate the river tour, but as alreach' mentioned, the stream is still navigable for several miles further. Good sport in l)ush-buck, deer and game is possible in the season, while leopards may occasionally be found in the forests. Apart, however, from this inducement, the scenery is of such thrilling loveliness that it would amply repay a deeper penetration into the wilds of Natal, where
" The hush of human hfe Rich, full, exultant ;
Lets the low voice be heard — In tremulous whispers next.
The low, sweet, solemn voice Sinking away
Of the deep woods. A spiritual undertone,
Its mystical murmuring Till the cooing of the wood pigeon
Now swelling into choral harmony Is heard alone."
196
MARBLE QUARRIES, PORT SHEPSTONE
Of the other attractions at Port Shepstone, besides boating, bathing, fishing, and shooting may be cited the charming bridle paths and roads by river and sea — and in land too — and especially the one along the bank of the river as far as the drift. Then there are the beach-rocks, about a mile from the railway station, to be visited, for they recall shuddering memories of the barbaric days of the Zulu Kings. Anyone will point out the " Place of Death," or " Devil's Hole," as it is called, where the sable monarchs of old were wont to wreak so terrible a vengeance upon their unhappy victims. A hole, satanical enough m all conscience, apart from its once diabolical association — black, narrow, deep, perfectly smooth, with an opening at each end admitting the terrific rise and fall of the boiling sea. Into this the wretched culprits were dropped and left to a helpless and inhuman battering to death by the incessant rush and recoil of the maddened waters — a more ghastl}- mode of execution impossible to conceive.
Marburg must not be forgotten. It is a small Norwegian farming-settlement three miles away, and affords an interesting walk.
Shepstone, the most English-like of Natal's resorts, and situated in an atmosphere particularly bracing, and most delightfully equable, has fascinations for one and all, whether health-seeker, pleasure-seeker, artist, scientist, sportsman, business man, planter or farmer, and its prosperity should be writ large before many years.
197
CHAPTER VI. VIA PORT SHI-:PST0XK to HARDING: THROUGH AI.FRKD COUNTY.
THE further extension of the South Coast Branch into the neighhiniriui^ county of Alfred has been surveyed. The course it will probably take, when authorised, is to kceji to the Coast a little distance beyond Port Shepstone, then cut through the heart of the County, passing near Harding, and terminating on the border at a i)oint which will enable the best connection to be made with the suggested Cape Line from Kokstad, the capital of East Griqualand, whereby a shorter route between Natal and the sister Colony would be availalslc.
.Alfred C)unty is eminently favourable, near the Coast, for the cultivation of the same conimoditijs as the Alexandra Countv sugar, tea, tobacco, maize, fruits, and fibrous plants ; and the richness of the inner pasture land is admirable for dairy farming and stock, while oats and forage would yield good crops. The advent of the railway will greatly promote the farming and industrial acti\ities in this resourceful, hut as yet, uiuiwakened shire.
Harding, the capital of Alfred County, has but a small population and few buildings. Stock farming is the principal vocation. In the vicinity of the Ingeli Mountains, which divide Alfred County from Griqualand East, large quantities of graphite have been found, and the workings have proved three parts carbon. Some of the finest timber forests in the Colony are also situated in that locality.
The present access to Harding is by post-cart. A daily service runs from Richmond, seventy-two miles, fare 50s., and a tri-wcekly service (Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays) from Port Shepstone. 58 miles, fare 30s.
Before quitting this southernmost division of the Colony, it might be stated that the Umtamvuna River, the boundary line between Natal and Pondoland. is a very beautiful stream, and of striking similitude to the UmzimkuJu.
'•PLACE OF DE.\TH," PORT SHEPSTONE
108
PART SEVEN.
OTHER BRANCH LINES OF
RAILWAY AND POST CART SERVICE
TO BULWER.
INDIANS CKOSblNlj A DKll I
PART SEVEN.
CHAPTER I.
T
THE RICHMOx\D BRANCH AND BEYOND.
HE Richmond Branch was opened in December, 1897, and is 17 miles in length. It shoots from the trunk line at a point just south of Thornville Junction. Its passenger service is two trains each way per diem. NEL'S RUST is the initial station. Its traffic is principally in dair}- produce, a
considerable quantity of the milk and cream consumed in the Colony emanating from this district. Wattle- growing is also largely indulged in. The most e.\tensive acreage employed in these pursuits is undoubtedl}' that
Altitude - - - 2,710 feet
Distatuc - - 63^ miles
Fares :
lstSi«gle, Ibl- Return. 241-
2nd .. WIS. ., 161-
owned by Mr. Joseph Baynes, C.M.G., M.L.A., a gentleman noted for his scientific farming and progressiveness. One of his beneficial ventures is the well-known creamery, which
20I
KAIIR MILKING
was Started shortly after the opening of the branch. It is ])rettily situated a Httle beyond thestation, and a glimpse may be caught of its red stone gable, over-topping the trees on the offside of the train.
■•MKtMMliCW
w ■u^w■^ ■ .
DAIRY, NEL S RfST
202
Beyond Nel's Rust, the irregularity of the country is more pronounced, but there is little to entertain the eye, except a farmstead here and there, a clump of trees, a few cattle, or a casual kafir kraal.
ARNOLD'S HILL is the second point of call, and, when necessary, Green Hill and Durban Road the following ones. These wayside places serve the farms in their respective vicinities.
From the last-named siding the train has an uninterrupted run through more agreeable scenery to the terminus of the Branch, and, before a curve is made into the busy little station, we obtain a comprehensive view of the village.
RICHMOND, on the Illovo, has a population of about 500 all told, and, like its more
aristocratic and historic namesake on the Thames, is picturesquely pretty. In its formation it is similar to the generality of South African towns, and is presided over by a tall peaked hill, called the "One o'clock," which
Altitude - - - 2.8t7 tect
Distance - - - 76^ miles
Fares ;
1st Single, 1913. Return, 2Sin.
2nd ,, 12110. „ VJP.
RICHMOND
rises rather abruptlv at the north end of the village. From this eminence, or from that of its neighbour, " Byrne," espied a little to the left, a good view of the country is secured.
The main street leads through the centre of the village, and a walk along this tidy thoroughfare reminds one exceedingly of the Homeland. The neat, tile-roofed houses set amid a wealth of flowers ; the bewitching arches of clustering eglantine and rose ; the weather-beaten church with the vicarage ensconced in the leafiest corner of the village ; and the willow-bowered grist mill by the river, conjure sweet visions of a far- distant scene.
With public and other buildings the townlet is plentifully stocked. There are three churches, a commodious double -storeyed hotel, Government School, Post Office, Agricultural and Masonic Halls, and miscellaneous Stores. It is not lacking either in Social and Industrial Institutions and the like, possessing Agricultural, Literarj', and Glee Societies ; Rifle and Farmers' Associations ; Cricket, Tennis, and Croquet Clubs, as well as a good Library.
203
Ai.oi:s
within easy reach as a week-end resort.
The water supply is a prominent fea- ture. This is secured bj' gravitation from a copious spring in one of the hills, and is conserved in cov- ered reservoirs. It is " laid on " to every house, and is re- markable for its coolness, even on the hottest days.
The village is very healthy and emi- nently suited both as a recuperative and a pleasure place. Its convenient train service also places it
So far as its trade and farming facilities are concerned, Richmond is of consequence. It is the centre of a large and flourishing agricultural and pastoral district, in which black wattles and blue gums are also cultivated. It serves the Ixopo and Harding divisions, as well as Kokstad and other thriving localities in Gri(]ualaiHl East, and Pondoland. A glance at the ex- tent of the area represented will giv'e a good idea of the large volume of trade in various products, live stock, wool, wood, bark, and other commodities, that is of necessity drawn to Rich • mond as the near- est point affording rail access to the Colony'sown com- mercial emporia. and those beyond the seas. How long this place is destined to be the naiive hlts
-^
204
hand maiden of the important agricultural and other industries in the district named, is at this period difficult to accurately determine. Suggestions have been made for the continuation of the railwaj' beyond Richmond in the direction of Griqualand East, but nothing definite has been decided.
The new route to the Cape Colony, which it was anticipated would be prolonged from Richmond, will bifurcate from the Natal trunk line at Maritzburg, passing through a new and prolific country to Riverside, on the Griqualand (CC.) border. Branches to tap the Impendhla, Underberg, and I.xopo districts have also been surveyed.
Reference should be made to the once flourishing bacon-curing industry. Owing to a series of misfortunes, commencing with the rinderpest and ending with the prohibitive prices of mealies, this had to be abandoned, but there are still hopes that the languishing " Chicago of Natal " may even yet deserve its former designation.
For the information of persons requiring to reach the under-dealt-with districts, as well as Umzimkulu, Kokstad, and other places, it should be stated that the post-cart meets the incoming train at Richmond station every week day, and leaves about lo o'clock a.m. The post cart fare to Umzimkulu (44 miles) is 30s., and to Kokstad (109 miles) 70s.
By Post-Cart from Richmond.
STUARTSTOWN (IXOPO) is at present only in road communication with the principal centres of the Colony, and lies about 30 miles to the south-west of Richmond. Pending the estabhshment of rail connection, the journey is accomplished by post-cart from the latter station. The fare is 20s.
Stuartstown, being the seat of magistracy for the division, is naturally the most in- fluential village, having a population of 300, accommodated by several stores, butcheries, hotel, and trades ; possessing also various societies, and athletic clubs. There are a number of erections, including a church, school, and hospital. The climate is very fine, though somewhat subject to extremes of heat and cold. The division is splendidly adapted for stock, as well as agriculture and wattle-growing, is well watered, and pro- vides good shooting and fishing in the rivers Umzimkulu and Umkomaas.
DRONK VLEI is an agricultural settlement in the above vicinity, comprising over 30,000 acres. It is a good grain-growing locality, and all the government allotments have been taken up. Although not far removed from Bulwer in the Polela district, the Richmond route is more generally used.
The main line of the Natal-Cape E.xtension Railway will pass through Dronk Vlei.
HARDING is the capital of Alfred County, and is described on page 198. The post-cart service from Richmond to Harding (72 miles) is a daily one, fare 50s., and from Port Shepstone (58 miles) tri-weekly — Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays — fare 30s.
CHAPTER II.
THE GREYTOWN BRANCH AND BEYOND.
THE junction station of the Grej-town Branch is Pietermaritzburg. The line was completed in July, 1900. It is 64! miles in length and is provided with nine stations and six stopping places. Two passenger trains to and from Greytown connect daily with the important up and down main line trains.
Swinging sharply to the right after clearing the Maritzburg station, the Branch train runs round the outermost limits of the city at the base of the Zwaartkop Range, past
205
the Electric Lighting Works, Locomotive Engine Sheds, the large recreation grounds^ and the Suburban Station of Victoria Road, crosses several streets, and the luxuriantly willow- (ringed Dorp Spruit, then scales the opposing hills, and leaves the capital behind. The country through which the line trails is just as eccentric information as other i)or- tions of the mitUands, but more delightfully fresh and jilacid. It is a farmer's land, fruitful and fair. Stock and ostriches, maize, potatoes, onions, and English and tropical fruits, thrive well in various parts of the extensive district ; dairying is another large employment, while the many forests of black wattle bespeak the ada]>tability of the soil and the importance of this industry.
VICTORIA ROAD is the opening station. Opposite is the Agricultural Show ground ;
on an eminence behind is the " Red House" — the Lunatic Asylum ; to the left of this is the main wagon road over the Town Hill; to the right is the pretty Chase Valley, and stretching from end to end are the heavily-timbered slopes of Maritzburg's Berea-to-be. Many citizens have already built charming villas thereupon, and others are following their commendable example.
A fine view of the City and its spacious outer-lands and Parks is secured between Victoria Station and the next Stopping Place. Mountain Rise.
BELFOKT is a plcasantl}- situated little station, three miles distant from the last-named - place. Bejond Belfort, and before gaining Otto's Bluff, a unique ])icce of railway is travelled over in order to surmount the awkward country, the line being of balloon shape.
|
' Alliluile ■ |
2ilJ0Jcet |
|
Instance - |
73 miles |
|
Fakes: |
|
|
lit Single |
(476. Return, 2719. |
|
■ 2ml „ |
1214. .. ISI6. |
.Mtitude - \leet
Distance 7,v utiles
Fares:
1st Single, 19 y. Return. 29:S.
2ml .. IJi2. „ I9i9.
ALBKRT TALLS, I'.MGKNI RIVER
2o6
|
Allilude |
. |
2M2feet \ |
||
|
Distance |
- |
Fares |
' |
SI miles \ |
|
Ut Single |
2l!3. |
Return, 31 It 1. |
||
|
2n(l |
•■ |
74:2. |
■ |
211.;. |
Altitude - - - 2.092 fell
Distance - - - S9i miles
Fares-
1st Single, 2216. Return, 33:9.
2nd .. 151- ., 2216.
OTTO'S BLUFF takes its name from the abrupt head- like hill opposite the station — a reduced replica of the famous Isandhlwana, in Zululand.
ALBERT FALLS is the succeeding station, and is one of the best inland pleasure resorts in Natal. It is only possible to devote a
little space to its attractions, but the visitor may be sure of passing an exceedingly agreeable time, both in summer and in winter, while as a week-end retreat it cannot be surpassed. Besides the beautiful broad falls, a few hundred yards from the station, there are long stretches of boatable water, good fishing, etc.
The country is hilly and chiefly pastoral, and the noble Kar Kloof Range, with its dense virginal forests, gives a striking and artistic finish to the landscape. As regards the climate, it is invigorating and everything that could be desired. It might be mentioned that there are two comfortable hotels at Albert.
Pushing on to New Hanover, the view is most picturesque. Wattle woods abound, for this profitable industry, with its three-fold return of bark, mine props, and lire- wood, is quite a feature of the Branch.
The Stopping Places of Cramond and Impolweni (for York) are afterwards passed.
NEW HANOVER village lies in a hollow some Httle distance from the Station. This
is a prosperous farming district. Coal has been found on
'Distance '- - - woi miL \ a farm a few miles off (near York), and is now being Htsingie,2lT^^ietuyn.37!n. \ testcd. Wagon-building and wattle-grinding are carried
2nd .. WHO. ., 25;3.
|
Altitude |
- 2.626 feel |
||
|
Distance |
tot miles |
||
|
Far |
ES: |
||
|
\ tst Single |
2613. |
Return, 3915. |
|
|
1 2nd |
I7l6. |
.. 2613. |
on, but beyond these there are no other industries. Game is plentiful in the Blinkwater Bush, and the Sterk Spruit, a quarter of a mile from the Station, is a favourite haunt of anglers, but it is necessary to obtain permission from the landowners to either shoot or fish.
NOODSBERG ROAD, the following Station, serves the settlement of Noodsberg.
In the post-cart days it was the half-way house to Greytown. The locality has no particular pretensions beyond its poultry farming, and we run direct to
D ALTON. .\t the present time this is one of the most productive Stations on the Branch. Mealies, wattle-bark, and timber form big traffics, .• : and fruits (oranges, lemons, etc.) and vegetables are also
Altitude - - 3.396 feet . , ° ^.^. ^, ° .. , ■
Distance - - )iOimUes\ growu m large quantities. Ihe community around is,
tst singie,27ig:^^ Return.Atis. to E very great extent, composed of Germans of long and ^'"' •■ '^'^- ■■ -''"• I friendly "standing in the Colony. It is very patent that the railway has rapidh' proved its desideratum in encouraging more extensive opera- tions, not only in this neighbourhood, but generally in every branch of farming along the line.
Dalton has a good brick hotel, and every accommodation will be found here by tourists ; but although the climate is bracing, the attractions are rather scanty, and prohibitively far away. The "Edwards" Falls, however, some seven or eight miles off, are deserving of remark. They are slightly broken at the head, then plunge sheer some 150 feet. Horses and conveyances can be hired at the hotel, should picnic parties or other visitors desire to visit this spot.
207
Dalton is the nearest station to the Noodsberg Mountains, which attain a height of between three and four thousand feet. Ravensworth and Harden Heights are Stopping Places which occur before the next station is reached. The surroundings and productions are similar to other portions of the Branch.
SEVEN OAKS is the prettiest and most invigorating altitude on the Branch. On
the left of the station is the magnificent Blinkwater Hill. It is in this vicinity that large deposits of coal have been found.
Looking in the same direction, numbers of hartebeest
Altitude . - ■ 3.653 ftel
Distance - - /-VJ riiiles
Fares:
rst Single, 30:6. Return, 4519.
2nd .. 20!4. ,. 3016.
may often be espied. They are large and splendid creatures, but, being jealously pre- served, it is very difficult to obtain a specimen. The herd, which numbers some 800, is the largest in the Colony.
On the right of the Station is a lovely morsel of country, and an hotel will be seen amidst the oak and wattle trees. About four miles along the main wagon road will be found the Umvoti River, the divider of Pietermaritzburg and Umvoti Counties. This stream attracts picnic and fishing parties, both from Seven Oaks and Greytown.
The locality is so singularly verdant and peaceful that one can readily imagine he scans the rich rolling fields of Somerset or Devon. For the already recited reasons, it will be surprising if the place remains long unknown, as it has the making of ane.xcellent health resort.
208
Hermansburg Road, intermediate between Seven Oaks and the terminal station ol the Branch, is the Stopping Place for the German settlement of that name. It is famed for its school, tannery, and plantations of fruit trees.
GREYTOWN is the capital of Umvoti County, and among the oldest to%vns in Natal.
^ The population numbers 800 Europeans and about 600
I Distance - mlmitcs ' coloured people. The valuation of the township property
I 1st singicSih^^Raum. 5ii- at the last assessment was £141,326.
' ^J^^" -Jll: 1^ ft The following is a short sketch of the town : In fashion,
strictly Dutch set out on a slope, exceptionally pretty, gum, oak, and fir trees lining the red soil roads. A long steep hill bounds the lower end of the town. The houses are nearly all of brick. Water runs in sluits at the sides of the streets, but this ancient mode is giving place to the modern " pipe " system.
There are three churches,— Dutch Reformed, St. James's Episcopalian, and Wesleyan. Also three hotels,— " Commercial," " Greytown," and " Plough."
The town has a commonage of some 10,000 acres, which is a great boon to the inhabitants for cattle-grazing purposes.
The Public Buildings are all near the Market Square. The offices of the Local Board are the most striking, being distinguished by a tower and a " Diamond Jubilee " clock. The construction of a capacious public hall is under consideration. Then there are the Court House, Post and Telegraph Offices, and the Gaol.
There is a good Government School, a Huguenot Seminary, particularly noted for its advanced education and thorough training for young ladies, several other educational estabhshments. Agricultural and Masonic Halls, Public Reading Room and Subscription Library, and all kinds of Clubs and Associations — athletic and otherwise.
The Barracks of the Natal Mounted Police are perched conspicuously on a hill outside the town.
Greytown is undoubtedly advancing. Building is in active progress, the bricks being
|
■';^#^«l^^'«fi |
||
|
KAFIR KRAAL AND LAI III, |
^H |
|
|
supplied from the several fields in the vicinity. Stone is being won from the near hillside quarries, and is reckoned as good as any in the Colony. The |
B ......... |
m |
2og
neighbourhood is well known to be rich in coal deposits. Iron ore, too, has been found, tested, and given excellent results, but developments are at present uncertain.
The climate is particularly exhilarating, and cool in summer, therefore Greytown lias substantial claims as a holiday resort.
It has also some historic associations. It was the birth place of the late Commandant- General Piet Joubert, and his successor, General Louis Botha, resided in the town for several years.
So far as the productions of the locality beyond are concerned, they are considerable in quantity and various in nature. The County is adaptable in an eminent degree to all agricultural and pasturing occupations, while its stock, especially, is perhaps the best conditioned and most prolific in the Colony. English fruits, too, are grown in great abundance. The wattle cultivation has increased to a large extent, and adds greatly to the beauty of the country. Tobacco of fine quality is another large growth.
Greytown, since the adoption of local Government, has come wonderfully to the front ; the valuation has increased nearly fifty per cent., and the population has practically doubled.
Since the opening of the Railway in July, 1900, a great impetus has been given to the building trade in the town, and the farmers are taking eager advantage of the Railway to send their various products to Maritzburg and other markets.
210
BEYOND GREYTOWX.
There are a number of settlements of interest and importance beyond Greytown, to w hich the locomotive has not yet penetrated. To the west is Reit \'lei ; to the east are The Thorns and Krantz Kop in the Tugela Valley ; and to the North are the U.msinga GoLDFiELDS and the Battle-noted Drifts of Zulcland. These are severally described below :
REIT VLEI is distant about twenty miles, and lies between Greytown and Mooi River. The latter station is the one principally used, and a post-cart runs therefrom twice weekly. Some of the best stocked:ifarms in the Colony are in this vicinitv.
THE UMVOTI THORNS represent a thickly wooded tract of country 15 miles out of Greytown. The\' cover an immense area.
OSTRICHES AND EGGS, NATAL
J.E.Middlcbrook
KRANTZ-KOP lies just beyond the latter, and is about 23 miles from Greytown, with which it is connected by telephone. It is the seat of magistracy, and consequentlv is possessed of a Court House, Gaol. Police Barracks, and Post and Telegraph Offices. A good hotel is also there. A tri-weekly post-cart service will probably be established shortly.
Both the "Thorns" and Krantz Kop are excellent farming districts, and the agricultural implements that have lately been imported speak well of the progressiveness and increased activity of the farmers. The thorn-veld is well adapted for ostrich-rearing, and large numbers of these valuable birds are to be found in the neighbourhood. The big growth of onions in the "Thorns " is also a noteworthy feature, whilst lime-burning is another business which is engaging attention, and should eventually prove a profitable industry.
In the matter of communication with the above places, there is as yet no recognised public service, but horses and conveyances can be hired in GrevtowTi. The joumev to the '' Thorns " occupies about two hours, and to Krantz Kop four hours. It is worthy of remembrance that around Krantz Kop, and in the Tugela \'allev. the grandeur of the mountain, woodland, and river scenery is almost unrivalled.
211
THE UMSINGA GOLDFIELDS, 40 miles away, are best accessible via Greytovvn. They are situated at the junction of the Buffalo and Tugela Rivers, and can also be reached from Dundee or Waschbank. Horses and other means of transport can be hired. In the matter of the gold-mining operations, there has been no startling development within the last few years, but the mines maintain a steady output. In this locality rich deposits of gypsum have also been discovered. Umsinga is in telephonic communication with Grey town.
There maj- be those who would wish to e.\|)lore the Ti"gel.\ \'.\lley from Krantz Kop to Umsinga, and it will be an advantage to know that guides are obtainable at a reasonable fee on application to the Magistrate at Grej'town. As previously stated, horses can be hired in the town.
Artists, photographers, scientists, prospectors, sportsmen, students of native customs, and others, would derive much enjoyment from this expedition, and the following e.xcerpt from the " Colony of Natal." may usefully be given :
" Passing up the river a succession of noble mountain ranges is viewed. Queer anil fantastic shaped hills, some in the form of tents, others lilce ancient feudal castles, appear through the forest glades. The Tugela, broad and powerful, lashes in wild waves over its bed of boulders, some of which are round as cannon balls, and weigh many tons. Wild fig-trees flourish. .-V curious kind of wild thyme with a rich aroma covers the ground in places ; tangled forests of thorn and cactus clothe the hills, whose debris is mi.xed with fragments of gold-bearing quartz and copper ore. At one point near the Episweni Mountain, a veritable castle of snow-white quartz occurs, and in the dark forests looks like a fairy palace of enchantment.
" Standing beside this quaint and beautiful phenomenon, the river can be seen 500 feet below, circling the Semunga peninsula. The meaning of Semunga is ' steep place.' The spot is well-named, for the hill affords scant foothold to even the nimble deer. If the river is watched attentively for a little time, the scaly forms of crocodiles basking in the sun can be spied. Barbel of mammoth propor- tions abound in the pools, and mud bream alford good sport. Eels are in plenty, while in the forests deer of smaller varieties, guinea-fowl, wood pigeons, and ibises are to be had. Passing still further up the river, the goldlields already mentioned are located."
FUGITIVE'S DRIFT, RORKE'S DRIFT, ISANDHLWANA Mountain, and other historic points of interest in the Zulu War of 1879, which are usually gained from Dundee, or the Railway Station near the Buffalo River, can also be visited as a continuation of this tour, either by rejoining the main road and proceeding via Helpmakaar, or by keeping to the Buffalo River. But provision would require to be made beforehand for the longer leave from civilization which this would entail.
CHAPTER III.
THE HARRISMITH liRAXCH, AND THE ORANGE RIVER COLONY.
THi: line to Harrismith is 59J miles long, and the steepest for its length in the Colon\'. It passes over the Drakensberg Mountains, and rises nearly 2,000 feet from start to finish. The scenery is very beautiful, and no tourist should omit this journey from his itinerary. Convenient trains are arranged to suit the main line service.
The Harrismith Branch takes leave of the Main Line at the Orange River Colony Junction, one mile north of Ladysmith. In the vicinity hereof are many notable positions held by both British and Boers during the Siege, this being about midway between the opposing forces
THE DRAKEN'SBERG
After clearing the Junction, the line passes through an open country, westward, to the Stopping Place of "Walker's Hoek, ten miles distant. The Klip River being crossed, the Drakensberg is revealed in all its majesty.
'• Huge as despair, as if in weariness The melancholy mountains yawn."
At the base of the mountains are many large stock farms, and thousands of sheep pasture on the expanding plains.
BESTER'S is the first station on the branch, and is set in the middle of a large grazing
district. At this point the first shots in the Natal Campaign were fired, in a brush between the Natal Volunteers and the enemy on the i8th October. iSgq. Passing towards Brak- wal, the intermediate Stopping Place of Colworth occurs, beautiful in situation. In front the three-fold zig-zags of the Reversing Station may be seen, and it is interesting to note that, within the short space of half an hour, the loco- motive, with its dead weight of several hundred tons will have climbed a thousand feet. The writer of the former guide (Mr. J. E. Ingram) has given so graphic a description of the journey between Brakwal and Van Reenen, that it is repeated, with the few emendations^necessary to adapt it to the present time :
" On the right the stately Drakensberg rises in terraces, piled steep on steep. A few moments' halt at the Brakwal Station, and away goes the train, whilst the traveller almost with bated breath watches the first angle, ^■isions of disaster from broken
|
Aliunde - |
4.006 fed 1 |
||
|
Dislance - |
Fares |
- |
205 miles | 1 |
|
1st Single |
SIIJ. |
Return, 76111. \ |
|
|
2nd .. |
3412. |
5113 ; |
BRAKWAL is
.Utiliide - - - 4,637 feet
Distance - - - 2/S^ mites
Fares :
Isl Single. 5416. Return, gl'9.
2nd .. 3614. .. 54i6.
213
I
^^Eii^_..
riiiii^
REVERSING STATIONS, II AKKIa.MI 1 II llKANLll
couplinfjs or other untoward accidents may be instantly dismissed, for by a cunning device of engineering it never becomes perceptible in the carriage that anything unusual is taking place. The view from the windows is entrancing. Away to the south-west, Tintwa Mountain, like a Titan Fortress, appears through the drifting clouds, which look like the smoke of heavy ordnance. One could almost imagine that warfare was being waged away up in the solitarv heights by the sprites who dwell ' midst frost and snow.'
The palms of the coast have now been replaced by heather ; wild poppies nod their drowsy heads beside the line, and quaint sugar bush trees with fire-like cones, stretch out their storm-strained limbs over the blue distance beneath them. The day darkens as the train speeds on; above and below there is bright sunshine — a |)assing cloud has been pierced — that is all.
As the train sweeps through the dense white mist, the red glow from the engine is reflected on the vapour. I hen out it rushes into the sunlight again, along one angle after the other, each perceptibly higher than the last, until the reversing station has been ])ast, and with an exultant shriek from the engine the task is complete, and the train, leaving echoes behind her, whirls along through rarified air over level plains 5,520 feet above the sea.
Approaching Van Reenen's, the road passes through a theatre of scenerj' which can be described in all truth as sublime. A few miles to the eastward of the station a prospect is revealed which no human being can regard without a thrill of the most exquisite and reverent delight.
It was from this magnificent vantage point that the early Boer voortrekkers first viewed their land of promise, their future refuge and home. Words are but feeble when called in requisition to describe the majesty of the scene. Mountain range after moun- tain range, hill after hill can be traced. Broad and apparently endless vales, forest belts and riv-ers are commingled in such a vscalth of beauty as to rival many an
214
Altitude ■ - - 5,519 /cct
Distance ■ - - 226^ miles
Fares :
7st Single. 5616. Return. S4J9.
2nd .. 37IS. „ 5616.
already famed land. There is no doubt that Piet Retief, the heroic leader ot the Boei emigrants, simple farmer though he was, drew from this scene that courage and inspira- tion which enabled him to face the terrors of hostile barbarism, and to win for himself and his compatriots the glory which has caused their names to be enshrined for all time in the pages of African history.
In the section dealing with the physical geography of Natal, the altitudes and con- figuration of the Berg are fully dealt with, therefore it is unnecessary in this place to touch upon the subject again.
VAN REENEN STATION is situated on the western frontier of Natal, and leaving
it, the Orange River Colony is entered. In the vicinity of the station there is a hotel and Custom House. To the left of the line, great isolated mountain masses are visible, each one standing like a palace of mystery, with the summits swarthed in clouds, and kloofs dark with impenetrable forests, amidst whose almost untrodden solitudes are Bushmen's Caves, containing on their rocky walls curious representations of beasts and birds. These Bushmen, now almost an extinct race in South Africa, are no doubt a wandering branch of the pigmy tribes discovered by Sir H. M. Stanley in Central Africa.
Their history forms a strange study, for while they were undoubtedly possessed in a high degree of primitive artistic and imitative powers in a pictorial sense, they were and are in almost every other respect beyond the pde of the lowest class of humanity-
Without a single scrap of generous impulse, devoid of the virtue of gratitude, they invariably waged a war of harassment on their white and coloured neighbours. Peace- ful and kindly overtures meant no more to them than to a tribe of those baboons to which they bear such a striking physical resemblance. Little wonder then that the Boers and early settlers did all in their power to exterminate them, even to the extent of organizing Bushmen's hunts, when the little, but nimble and ferocious mani- kins were shot down, not, however, without tearing down a few of their provoked and exasperated assailants."
The Kloofs, the Bushmen's Caves, and such noted mountains as Rensburg Kop, Nelson's Kop, the Three Sisters, and the Knuckles, also the historic Van Reenen Pass,
VAN REENEN's P.\SS, N.G.K., HARRISMITH BRANXH
BUSHMliN S DRAWINGS
J E. Middlebrook
are best accessible from Van Reenen Station. The Railway Hotel is a few hundred yards away, and is much used by visitors in the summer months — October to March.
KLOOFS, NEAR VAN REENICN
2l6
The excellent shooting also attracts a large number of sportsmen during the season- May to August.
Leaving Van Reenen Station, in a little while the Wilge River comes into sight. Still on and on, through a region of uncounted lakelets, or pans, as they are locally called, the train, relieved from its mountain climb, whirls along with redoubled speed.
The ridge of mountains forming the water shed of South Africa having now been passed, there is a perceptible fall in the country towards the west. The rivers have reversed their courses, and flow from the Berg into the Atlantic, instead of the Indian Ocean.
ALBERTIXA. the next station to Harrismith, has no
remarkable features of interest other than its proximity to the Berg, and the River Wilge, which latter is plentifully stocked with fish.
Altitude ■ - S. ■107 feci
Distance - - - 334i miles
Fares-
rst Single. SSI9. Return, SSI2
2nd .. 3912. ., 5«/9.
H.\RRISMITH : PL.\.\TBERG IN BACKGROLND
HARRISMITH.
.Altitude - - - 5.319 Jeel
Distance ■ - - 250 miles
Fares :
Ut Single. 6216, Return. 9319
2nd „ 4IIS. ,. 6216
This noted Dutch-fashioned town is situated in the north eastern angle of the Orange River Colony. It has always been essentially British, and, in addition to its considerable agricultural and trading importance, forms a great health resort for people from the "Garden Colony" during the summer season. The altitude and rarity of the air are recommended as being peculiarly beneficial to consumptives.
The population of Harrismith, according to the official return, is 1,927. viz : 1,020 English, 193 Dutch, and 714 natives. The value of landed property is assessed at £232,000, and the town lands at £60,000. The general rate is one penny in the pound. The water supply and sanitary arrangements are good.
The town possesses a fine park, containing lake and athletic grounds, a polo ground, golf links, and race-course. There are a number of well-designed public buildings, churches.
217
hotels, houses, and stores. The Dutch Reformed Church is a splendid erection, and in its vicinity stands the commodious Town Hall.
The Plaatberg, a high, table-topped mountain, forms a jiicturesquc background to the town. From the top of this, in clear weather, the historic Amajuba can be seen.
As will be imagined, Harrismith is largely used by tourists, sportsmen, photographeis, and scientists, as the centre for visiting the Drakensberg.
Mont au.\ Sources (ii.ooo feet) where rise the rivers Tugela, Orange. Eland, and \'aal, is about 30 miles off. Sunrise, viewed from this mountain, is a siyht never to be forgotten, resembling strangely the famous Matterhom.
nm^
mM
SOLKLI. 1)1- I HI-- lldhl.A
Such other noted portions of the Berg as Tintwa Pass and Witzie's Hoek, the latter of interest as the last stronghold of the Hoers in this portion of the country, lie also in the same direction as Mont au.x Sources.
Tours on the Drakensberg may be organised locally, and all necessary arrangements made at one of the hotels ("Royal," "Commercial," or "Central") for pack-horses, camping kit, provisions, etc. There are several boarding and farm houses in the vicinity of Harrismith.
Harrismith is a large^ trading centre, wool, hides, horns, and cereals constituting the chief exports. The capabilities of the district are immense, and great developments are anticipated. Stock thrives well, dairy' produce may be made a very payable under- taking, whilst maize, corn, and other field crops, fruit and tobacco, yield prolifically. And what is said of Harrismith applies equally to the Orange River Colony as a whole.
218
The construction of railways will be one of the chief factors in the advancement ol the land, and it is pleasing to note that new lines are being urgentU' pushed forward, or proposed. The schemes which will prove most welcome to Natal, are the extensions of the Harrismith Branch to Bethlehem, and from the latter place to Winburg and possiblv to Kimberley. When completed, these will afford more direct access to Bloemfontein, the capital of the Orange River Colony, and to the trunk line of the Cape Territorv, mutually advantageous to each of the colonies concerned, and will furnish an even shorter route to Cape Town than the one now under construction via Maritzburg, Riverside, and Indwe.
HARRISMITH AND THE WAR.
Harrismith played a passive, but not altogether unimportant, part during the great campaign.
At the beginning of September, 1899, when the resources of diplomacy were about exhausted, the burghers of the then Free State were busily preparing for th^ expected fray, and the attitude of that State in the inevitable struggle was almost immediately disclosed, the now defunct Government resolving to carr\- out in word and spirit the terms of the defensive alliance entered into with the Sister Republic on March 17th, 1897.
Commandeering commenced on October 8th, 1899, but prior thereto many of the British subjects left the State. With the exception of the Natal Government Railway Staff, no one capable of bearing arms was exempted from this order. After this date events followed each other in rapid succession. On the 9th October, a large commando, number- ing some four thousand men, passed through the town on its way down to seize the Tintwa Pass.
By the loth, a force nearh^ eight thousand strong had mustered at Nelson's Kop.
On the nth October, about noon, after the arrival of the train from Natal, the Free State Authorities seized the Railway. This placed an engine and a small quantity of rolling stock in their hands, and gave them control of the line as far as Brakwal, a Free State Commando, about a thousand strong, having occupied Van Reenen Pass on the same day, and rendered it impregnable with their superior armament, also destroying the line at the Reversing Stations. The Railway officials being no longer required, they received orders to quit the country, and left under passport for Natal.
Then the " stern realities of war " commenced in deadly earnest.
Harrismith was the principal base of supplies for the Free State Forces lying around Ladysmith during the investment, and the appropriated train was used for running down stores as far as Smith's Crossing, and bringing back the wounded.
The enem\' were doubtless very disappointed that our troops did not engage them in the passes. From information subsequently gleaned from some of the Free State leaders, it appears that the plan of campaign, which they had so sanguinely prepared, was for the Free State forces, under Prinsloo. with the Transvaalers under Joubert.then Ij'ing at Zandspruit, and the commando under Lucas Mever from the Vryheid district, to join hands north of Ladysmith, and crush the garrison, after which the whole of Natal would be open, and their march to the coast unopposed. But the fondest dreams are but rarely realised !
For ten months Harrismith remained cut off from all communication with the outside world; it was not until the 4th of August, igoo, that the late Sir Hector JIacdonald entered the town. Five daj's later railway communication was restored, and Harrismith was then established as the headquarters and base of supplies for the troops operating in the eastern portion of this extensive Colony.
219
A BRIEF GLANCE AT THE ORANGE RIVER COLONY.
In urea it is computed to be about 50,000 square miles. Its physical conlif^uration is of tlie simplest, consisting practically of an enormous plain, with a gradual slope to the westward. Near the eastern borders there are many mountains more or less connected with the Drakensberg. For the rest, small table-topped hills occur, and these onlv occasion- ally.
The situation of the territory is between Latitude 26° 25' and 33' 40' South, and 24" 25' and 2f) 45' East Longitude. The country lies between the Cape Colony, Basutoland, Natal, and the Transvaal. The last census taken by the late Free State Government gave the population as. Whites, 77,717 and Natives 129,787. These figures are now useful onlj- for reference.
Under the Dutch administration the State was divided into tiie following eighteen districts : —
|
District. |
Chief towns and villages. |
|
Bloemfontein. |
Bloemfontein, Reddersburg. Brandfort, De Wetsdorp, |
|
Thaba "Nchu. |
|
|
Caledon River. |
Smithficld. |
|
Fauresmith. |
Fauresmith, Jagersfontein, Edenburg, Petrusberg, Koffy- |
|
fontein |
|
|
Harrismith. |
Harrismith. |
|
Winbiirg. |
Wiiilnirg, Vcntcrsburg. Senekal. |
|
Kroonstad. |
Kroonstad, Vredefort. Reitzburg. |
|
HoshoS. |
Bosholf. |
|
I'hilippolis. |
Philip)iolis. |
|
Hethu ie. |
Bethulie. |
|
Jacobsdal. |
Jacobsdal. |
|
Kouxville. |
Rouxville, Za.strom. |
|
Hfthlchem. |
Bethlehem. Lindlcy. Reitz. |
|
Latlybrand. |
Ladybraud. |
|
lleilbron. |
Heilbron, Paris. |
|
Hoopstad. |
Hoopstad, Biiltfontcin. |
|
Wepener. |
Wepener. |
|
Vrede. |
Vrede, Frankfort. Villiers. |
|
Ficksburg. |
Ficksburg. |
A party of Boers first " trekked " into the country in i>S20, but it was not until 1S48 that British sovereignty was extended over the territories north of the Orange River by a proclamation issued by Sir Harry Smith.
HISTORY.
Some of the Boers, most of whom had come with their leader, Andries Pretorius, from the territory l\ing north of the Vaal River, resisted, but were defeated at the battle of Boomplaats. In March, 1849, Sir Harry Smith issued another proclamation, in which the territory was named the " Orange River Sovereignty," the limits being the Vaal River, the Orange River, and the Drakensberg. In February, 1854, the country was again abandoned, and handed back to the Boers, who then formed their own Government, which was recognised by the British, and was maintained until its coalition with the South African Republic, resulting in the return of the Colony into British possession, governed by a Deputy Administrator, under the jurisdiction of the High Commissioner for South Africa.
220
THE BLLWER POST CART
BY
CHAPTER IV.
POST-CART TO THE IPOLELA
BULWER AND DISTRICT.
THE NEW NATAL-CAPE LINE.
BLT.WER is an important farming centre in the district of Ipolela, 58 miles from Pieter- maritzburg. It is now gained by post-cart, which runs via Edendale and Boston, and leaves the City at 7 a.m. daily, except Sundays. The journey occupies about eight hours, and the fare is 22s. The fare to Edendale is Ss., and to Boston, us. The ride up hill and down dale is intensely interesting. Wilgefontein, a good agricultural district a few miles out of Maritzburg, being passed, and the L'msindusi River crossed, the route lies through the Edendale Mission property. A steep hill has then to be negotiated, from the summit of which a charming panoramic view is obtained. The village of Boston is soon afterwards reached, and a welcome stay is made at the hotel for refreshments. Proceeding, the picturesque Eland's River is passed, and Lundj^'s Hill is ascended, the road cutting through a delightful piece of bush. Then comes the lovely valley of the Umkomaas. After the drift is forded, the great Mahwaqa. 6.834 ^^ct high, is discerned, and in a short while, the town of Bulwer, which reposes at its base, is arrived at.
221
So far as the town it- self is concerned, it is most salubrious, having an altitude of 5,100 feet It is a magistracy, with the usual Government I'jiiildings. ("iiurches. Schools and Library, Tennis and other Clubs, Af^ricullural and Horti- cultural Societies, and of course an hotel and stores. The postal ser- vice is good, and the im- portant centres of Maritz- i>urg, Boston, and Im- pendhla are connected by telegraph and telephone.
The new townshi]i of HIMKVILLE, about 30 miles west of Bulwer, near the Berg, is progressing rapidly, and a magistracy is promised. A post-cart service has recently been
t" •■ ' " '} established, running from
i iSulwer on Mondays, j Wednesdays, and Fri- days— fare los.
In relation to the larming and other quali- ties of the I polela district, the subjoined observa- tions may be given : —
" This district is considered one of the (inest stock-rearing and farminf; areas in the Colony The chniate is superb, possessing, as it does, all the beauties of an English one, but with scarcely any of the drawbacks. Were this but fully realised, the district, notwithstanding the fact that it is the third largest in the Colony, would soon be largely and beneficially occupied. The North-west boundary runs along the Berg, and impinges on Basutoland. In this region the scenery in many places rivals that of the Highlands of Scotland. It is asserted that the air here possesses a peculiar restorative power in connection with rheumatic affections.
" With regard to stockbreeding, the cla.ss of cattle in the district is a very mixed one, having been drawn largely from East Griqualand, The breed is. however, rapidly improving, the tendency being towards the introduction of short-horned strains. Although the Ipolela is distinctly a pastoral region, agriculture is by no means beliind the times. Wheat, oats, potatoes, etc., are plentifully grown, and thrive well. Owing to the prevalence of frost, maize is not regarded as a reliable crop."
A\ l.MH .\.\, OR lll.AU .M.V.N
THE NEW RAILWAY LINE THROUGH THE IPOLELA DISTRICT TO CAPE COLONY.
After weighty con- sideration, the line of the new connection with Cape Colony, which will shorten the existing route to Cape Town by over 200 miles, and promote a considerable traffic be- tween the two Colonies, has been fi.xed to start just south of Maritzburg Station, and run via Edendale, Eland's River, Donnybrook, and Dronk- vlei, making junction at Riverside on the Griqua- land East border, with the new Cape line which will be prolonged from Indwe via Matatiel and Kokstad. When the line is laid, it will pass with- in about eight miles of Bulwer, and the means of access thereto will be provided from that point instead of from Pieter- maritzburg, as at present.
The work of construc- tion of the Natal portion of the line (about loo miles in length) is being rapidly prosecuted. Branch lines to serve the important Impendhla, Underberg, and Stuartstown (Ixopo) districts, have been surveyed.
There can be no apprehension as to the profitable issue of the scheme, having for its object the development of a rich pastoral and agricultural country, and the fostering of new industries.
WIFE OF A KAIIK Cllll.l
yr.ifj'lJ.'s
223
SECOND BOOK.
HANDBOOK
OF
GENERAL INFORMATION
I^ELATING TO THE
COLONY OF NATAL
AND
A SHORT REVIEW OF THE RAILWAY SYSTEM.
INTRODUCTORY NOTES.
T
HE various subjects have been so arranged and iniphasised as to afford easy reference.
As previously obsen'ed, a large portion of the data has been extracted from the 1895 Ofifirial Hand-book (J. h. Ingram), re-arranged, and corrected as nearly as possible to date. This has been supjilemented by contributions from experts in different branches, and l)y other paragraphs and useful notes.
The statistics have been supplied from official sources through the courtesy of Mr. G. T. Plowman. Secretary to ttie Prime Minister.
The general plan ol the Colony was specially drawn in the Surve\or- General's Office, and will be found to enuiodv much valuable matter.
For any further details or information bearing upon N.vt.\l : The L.and AND Its Story (Colonial Edition) and N.xt.'VL and its Neighbours (English Edition), the reader cannot do better than refer to Mr. Robert Russell's books recently published under those titles; while Mr. John Bird's " .\nnals 01 Natal" is another excellent and stanaard Historj- of the Country. There are, in addition, several very reliable and widely-circulated Directories published annually in the Colony.
226
NATAL
Shewuig
RAILWAY LINES. STATIONS & CONNECTIONS. COUNTIES. PRODUCTIONS. SETTLEMENTS. ETC.
Compiled in the office
ol' I he SURVEYOR-GEPfKRAL. NATAL.
1902.
yUea
i 111
REFERENCE
Umt un4«r cofiitruil Surrtj* of piopoiedlif
POSITION AND- AREA
HANDBOOK OF GENERAL INFORMATION.
THE COLONY OF NATAL is situated on the south-east coast of Africa, between 27^° and 31° S. Lat., and 29° and 31^-° E. Long. Its area is 18,750 square miles, equal to 12,000.000 acres. Its boundaries are : west and north-west, the Drakens- berg (a towering range of mountains separating it from Basutoland, the Orange River
Colony, and the Transvaal) : on the north-east, the Buffalo and
Tugela Rivers divide it from the Transvaal Colony and Zululand ; and on the east it is bounded by the sea. The southern frontier runs along the Umtamvuna River to the Ingeli Mountains, and thence up a somewhat intricate course to the Upper Umzimkulu, thereby separating the Colony from Pondoland on the south, and Griqualand East on the south-west.
By Act No. 37 of 1897, the territory of Zululand was incorporated with Natal. The area of Zululand is approximately 10,450 square miles, equal to 6,688,000 acres. It extends from Lat. 26° 45' South to 29° 15' South, and its boundaries are, on the east, the Indian Ocean : north-west, the Vryheid District and Swaziland ; north, Portuguese East Africa ; and on the south. Natal.
Including Zululand, Natal has a seaboard of about 340 miles. Its greatest length is 330 miles, and breadth 150 miles.
The above is exclusive of the new territory ceded in the re-arrangement of boundaries, which will, it is anticipated, add upwards of 7,000 square miles to Natal.
The Phj'sical Geography of Natal is not difficult of description. Starting from the coast, the Colony, by a series of almost regular steppes, attains
PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY
an altitude of two and a quarter miles above sea level at the Drakensberg, where snow-clad peaks are no uncommon sight. The main rivers, hereafter mentioned, traverse the Colony from the Berg to the ocean, and to and from these a countless and almost confusing labyrinth of tributaries and connecting streams seam the country in every direction, all of course trending towards the sea.
The Terraces or Steppes of Natal may be set down as follows : The first from the sea extends about fourteen miles inland, and attains an elevation of about 1,000 feet. The second, starting from this point, is about twenty miles broad, which brings us at a distance of thirty-four miles from the sea, to an altitude of 2.500 feet. The third terrace, about twenty-five miles in breadth, sweeps to an altitude of 3.700 feet. The fourth, of almost equal breadth, is about 5,000 feet, near the villages of \\'eston and Estcourt. The fifth and last soars to 6,000 feet, while from this altitude the majestic peaks of the great Drakensberg, named below, lift up their crests, " haze- wrapt and distant, crowned by fleecy clouds."
The mountain svstem of Nacal is one of the most interesting features in the Colony ikeh' to come within the scope of a geographical student.
MOUNTAIN SYSTEM
The I'rakensberg, or Kahlamba, ranks first, both by reason of its size and grandeur, and the fact that it forms the most im- portant and striking feature of the inland frontier. The most prominent points in the range are Champagne Castle, or Cathkin Peak, 12,000 feet above
227
MONT AUX SOURCES, I I ,000 l-KF.T HIGH
sea level ; Giant's Castle, ii,ooo feet ; and Mont^ux Sources, also ii.ooo feet. Tintwa comes next, with 7.500. while .\maiuba. of tragic memory, ranks last, with an altitude of 7,000 feet.
The second range in order is the Little Drakensberg. which springs from Champagne Castle, and, for about thirteen miles, sweeps through a realm of mountain and flood, as grandlj^ beautiful as the heart of man can desire.
The third range, named Hlatikulu. diverges from Giant's Castle, and forms the water- shed between Bushman's and the -Mooi Rivers.
The fourth range is also based on Giant's Castle. It divides into two at an elevation of 7,039 feet above the sea, one chain trending to the north-east, and the other to the south-east. The first-named chain again divides near Mount Arrochar. 5.6qi feet above the sea, and Mount West, 5,800 feet, the northerly sjjur running through Umvoti County to Fort Buckingham, and the southerly, forming the Karkloof Range with Mount Gilboa, 5,794 feet. The other, or south-easterly range, forms the watershed between the Upper L'mgcni on the north, and the Upper Umkomaas and I'msindusi on the south.
The Great and Little Xoodsberg, 3,000 and 3,500 feet above sea level respectively, lie south of the Llmvoti River, in Umvoti County, forming the longest stretch of Silurian sandstone in South Africa. They merge to the southward in the Inanda District, and attain their greatest height at Mount Sargeaunt.
The Ingeli Mountains are an unattached chain of heights, lorming the western boundary of .Alfred County. They attain an altitude of about 7,000 feet.
There are many mountains not directly attached to ranges, which are well worthy of note. Some of these are of great height and beauty, as for instance, Episweni, in the
228
Tugela Valley, in' Umvoti County, and;Tabamhlope, or White Mountain, 6,512 feet, near Estcourt.
Owing to the configuration of Natal, it is unhappily the case that but two Rivers in the country are navigable at all, and those only for a few miles from the
RIVERS coast. The very circumstance which bestows on the Colony its variety
of climates — that is, its steppes or terraces, — cuts off this cheap and
easy means of transport and pleasure.
Of first-class streams there are three — the Tugela, the Umkomaas, and the Umzimkulu. The Tugela, which is in the north of the Colony, is the longest and most beautiful- Taking its source in the Drakensberg, as already stated, it leaps with one bound over a cliff 1,800 feet sheer, into the Colony. At sixty miles from the sea the Tugela is joined by the Buffalo River. The chief tributaries of the Tugela are the Klip, Sunday's, and Buffalo Rivers from the north, and the Mnwe, Umlambonga, Little Tugela, Blaauw Krantz, Bushman's, Mooi. and Inadi Rivers from the south. These, again, have numerous tributaries, such as the Sand, Inkunzi, W'aschbank, Incandu, Ingagane, and Ingogo.
The Umzimkulu ranks next to the Tugela in size, and long before it in usefulness. Its scenery is rich in grandeur, and especially beautiful at the mouth.
The Umkomaas (Gatherer of Waters) rises in Giant's Castle, and flows through wild and interesting scenery, which here and there becomes more distinctly English and home- like than that of the Tugela. On the whole, however, it retains its quaint African char- acteristics. Its most important tributaries are the Uzani, Eland's, and Umkobeni, from the north, and the Inhlaveni and Ixopo from the south.
There are five second-class rivers in Natal, viz., the Umvoti, Umgeni, Umlaas, Illovo, and Umtamvuna. Amongst the third-class streams, commencing to count from the
RIVKK LMZIMKILU
northern trontier. are the Sinkwazi, Nonoti. Umhlali, Tongaat, Umhloti, and Great and Small Umhlangas, in \'ictoria County ; the Umbilo. Umhlatuzan (flow- ing into the Bay at Durban). Umbogin- twini, and Amanzimtoti, in Durban County; the Amahlongwa, Umpambanyoni, Umzinto. Ifafa, Umtwalumi. and Umzumbi, in Alexandra County ; and the Umbizana. in Alfred County. The tributaries of these minor streams are far too numerous to particularise here. but. from what has been set down, the reader, bearing in mind the size of the Colony, will realise how well-watered and -fertile it is.
229
GEOLOGY
•As is commonly the case in mountainous lands, the main backbone of the rocky contour — the frame which determines and marks out the plan and articulation of the physical geography — is formed of igneous or hypogene rocks, in the several C(jnditions commonly known as granite, gneiss, micaschist, clay-slate, and metamorphic limestone. The granite line of Natal presents itself in a form which immediately secures the notice of the ordinary observer, on the main line of railway between Durban and the capital. Huge grey blocks, many hundreds of tons in weight, crop out at the mountain si<les of Inchanga. These Titanic masses are all of crystalline granite, and can be traced intermittently through the Inanda location in a north- easterly direction, to the valley of the Tugela, which, in the form of a great belt, it crosses at about seventy miles from the sea. In the opposite direction it enters the ocean considerably south of the Umparabanyoni. while indications of it can be found along the coast in Alfred County, where, close by the sea. it appears in the form of a broad platform, upon which the waves have sculptured a suc- cession of jagged walls, steps and pyramids.
GR.\NITE OUTCROP NE.\R INCH.-\NGA
The great axis of granite which passes obliquely throughout the entire breadth of Natal, is flanked on either side by metamorphic rocks, which have been secondarily influenced by great heat. These may be described as consisting of mica slate, clay-slate, and crystalline limestone. Near the Umzim- kulu, as will be shown elsewhere, at a distance of about eight miles from the sea, there lies upon the southern slope of the granite belt a vast mass of white, highly crystal line marble. It is for the most part of a pure tint, but sometimes is tinged with a green, pink, or yellowish colour. There is no distinct stratification, it being separated into large masses by lamina: of gneiss and granite, which contain a considerable percentage of quartz.
It is perfectly clear that the great central axis of granite has been upheaved, subsequent to the de- posit of the neighbouring beds of rocks, many of which are broken, tilted up by it. and. when in its immediate proximity, changed in their mineral character.
The sandstones of Natal occur mainly in thick horizontal beds, alternating with shale of various descriptions. They are to be found up to the highest part of the sub-terrace of the Berg. i.e.. about 7.000 feet above the sea. and on the coast to the north of the granite belt. The flat-topped moun- tains and hills, which form such familiar features in the scenery of Natal, are composed of vast horizontal layers of this stone, reared up sometimes on sloping buttresses, and looking, as
•/• '■• Ingram {IS9S.)
230
Mr. Henry Brooks says, " like broken slabs of the old pavement that was shattered by the earthquake throes on the upheaval of the granite."
The rivers of the coast, while not infrequently flowing through the stratified rocks to the granite beneath, often pass between picturesque cliffs of reddish sandstone, some of which most probably belone to the Devonian and Silurian systems, and some to the younger age of the new red sandstone. Others, again, are associated with alternating layers of gritty sandstone, which unquestionably is of the carboniferous age. Dykes of green stone-trap constantly pierce the sandstone formations, while " faults " are frequent.
Coal occurs in Xatal amongst the carboniferous sandstones in various places, and, fortunately for the Colony, is abundant.
Ne.\t in order, as regards frequency of occurrence, is greenstone and trap in one or other of its pro- tean forms. The felstones, greenstones, and granite are continually found in all countries, closely associated, and occasionally pass into each other in the same continuous mineral mass. At the Umgeni Falls, near Howick, three distinct beds of trap rock occur, separated by intervening layers of carbonaceous sandstone and shale. Some little distance to the south of the fmzimkulu River, there is a miniature " Giants' Causeway," in the shape of a platform of columnar basalt extending into the breakers of the sea. Amygdaloid porphyries frequently occur in the neighbourhood of the intrusion of trap dykes. Agates of great beauty and six-sided prisms of rock crystal are carried down by the rivers from the edges of trap veins exposed in the higher mountains. It has been found that the best soil in the Colony is located in those places where the stratified rocks are most broken through by the intrusive eruption of trap.
Perhaps the most interesting rock formation in Xatal is one which has been closely studied by the late Dr. Sutherland. It is known as the boulder clay by some, and by others as claystone porphyry. The bed consists of a bluish-grey, hardened, argillaceous or clay mass, containing imbedded fragments of greenstone, clay-slate, quartz, graphite, and granite. These are of varjang size, from sand grains to blocks measuring six feet across. The fracture of the rock is not conchoidal, and there is manifest in its substance, a disposition to wavy stratification. The thickness of the beds varies considerably from place to place. In some situations it is 1,200 feet through. .\s a rule it rests upon old sandstones, which in turn are based on granite. Upwards it passes first into newer shales, and through them into the sandstones and shales which are associated with the coal deposits. The transition is gradual, and shows no distinct line of demarcation. This formation flanks the long line of sandstone hills which run from the Tugela River, about six miles from the sea, through the Berea Range to the mouth of the Umbilo. It also crops out near Maritzburg, stretching away through the Umgeni and Umvoti Rivers to the Tugela, between Greytown and the Biggarsberg, and in the opposite direction acrcj the Umkomaas to the southern frontier of the Colony. It trends away then, across the St. John's River to the Cape Colony. Boulder clays of this class occur in various countries. The one which has had most attention devoted to it is located in Carnarvonshire. Professor Ramsay considers that there is only one known agency which is adequate to the production of all the circumstances met within, this formation. He holds that the transport to long distances of vast blocks of rock, the scoring of the subjacent surfaces of sandstone, and the simultaneous deposition of minutes and grains and large boulders in the same matrix, all indicate that ice is the only physical agent that can be rationally credited with the creation of these clays.
The limestones are much more sparingly represented in Natal than these sandstones. In the Tugela"Valley there are deposits of nodular limestone. The presence of crystalhne metamorphic marble has already been mentioned. The beds which solely represent the cretaceous system occur on the southern coasts of Natal, and are of considerable geological interest. In places, the beach is almost entirely composed of fusiform shells, which are a species of Terebra, cemented together into a soiia mass, amongst which are tusks and bones of vertebrate animals, and trunks of large trees.
A wide field of study here lies open to those who have the skill and time to devote to it, and pages might easily be filled with observations, each one of which would be of scientific value.
Passing on to the subject of minerals, it is now definitely ascertained that almost unlimited quantities of iron ore occur in the Colony, in the form of beds and concretions of clay-iron, also in that of masses of ha-matite. The city of Pietermaritzburg has been built on irregular deposits of the metal. The ores are in some instances so rich that the natives have worked them into metal for spear heads, wnth the rudest appliances imaginable.
Tests of the ore have proved it to contain 9.09 per cent, of lisicate of iron, 13.40 per cent, of sihcate of alumina, 76.74 per cent, of oxide of iron (equal to 53.72 per cent, of metallic iron). 0.52 per cent.
231
ol sulphur, ami a trace of magnesia. At a point near Kort Muckingham in L'mvoti County, one entire mountain appears to be composed of masses of specular and magnetic iron ore mingled together.
Deposits of ores of copper, some of which contain traces of gold, occur frequently. As yet Imt little has been done towards ascertaining their value.
Gold and silver, in quartz and other forms, are now being tested in that interesting geological locality soTFequently cited — the Tugela Valley. Here a curious and unique lode is attracting altenlion. It consists of ore containing about 40 per cent, of Jarsenical pyrites, and assays variously from a few grains to several ounces of gold to the ton. Should the worlcsj now proceeding in this place result favourably, Natal will lind within her frontiers greater sources of wealth Ihan were :ever imagined. The fact of the deposits being of a refractoryi"^description will not militate against -their value, since the establishment of successful chemical processes for the£recovery of gold. The value.of these latter has been amply demonstrated on the Witwatersrand l-ields.
The heavy timber foresi:s of Natal are estimated at about lOb.ooo acres, and Thorn- bush and low forests at 1,841,000 acres. The high timber torests^are
FORESTS for the greater part situated along the Drakensberg Range of
Mountains, mostly on the southern slopes at an elevation of 3,500 to
6.000 feet, where the mean annual temperature ranges from 52° to 59°. The ujiright yellow wood (Podociirpus Thiinbergii) here attains to its greatest size, as do also many other ol the more valuable timber trees, including Kamdeboo Stinkwood (Celtis KratissiaiKi), Wild Chestnut (Calodendron dipctisis), Natal Mahoganj- (Kiggdaria Afrkana), White Ironwood [Toddalia Lanceolta), |\Miife Ptar (A-jidylt^ I ,v ioiuu) Bogabog (Xylosma Moiiospora), and Sneezewood (Pteroxylon Utile). The low forests are located principally along the coasts, and in the midland districts. Thornbush, which consists chiefly of various species of Mimosa (Acacia Natalitia and A. Kraussiana) being the inost common, is spread over very wide areas, mostly in the basins of the Tugela and the Umkoniaas, at altitudes of 3,500 and 1,000 feet, below which it intermingles with the coast forests. In this region the mean annual temperature ranges from 59° to 67°. The coast forest jjrcdominates below 1,000 feet, where the climate becomes sub-tropical, and the mean annual temperature ranges from 67° to 71°. It is composed of a great variety of low trees, the average height varying from 30 to 60 feet, amongst which the Waterboom (Eugenia Candaia] and the Matcrown (Alhizzia Fastigiata) are characteristic species.
The wood of many of the Natal timber trees is of great value, and is used largely in house-building, wagon and coach building, and for furniture. The supply, however, of many of these woods is rapidly decreasing, and it is a question very seriously occupjing the minds of many colonists, whether instead of propagating and planting Australian and other e.xotic trees of quick growth, more attention should not be bestowed on the conser\'ation and planting of trees indigenous to the climate and soil of the country.
*The FLOR.'\ of Natal is not only of great beauty, but is also of a most varied character,
ranging from an almost tropical vegetation in the coast
FLOR.A, FRUl FS, districts to a sub-alpine one on the crests of the Drakens-
CbRt:.ALS, LiRAbStiS, berg, and to enumerate even a tithe of the beautiful
; flowers, trees, and climbing plants included in it would
require moie space than can be allowed in a work of this kind. An unusually laree number of the indigenous plants of the Colony have been cultivated in Europe, and some of them have been hybridised and improved almost bej'ond recognition ; within the last few years the Streptocarpus hybrids, now so well known and so much admired, have been mainlj' if not altogether produced bj- crossing Streptocarpus \V endlandii , a native of Natal, with
• RyJ. Medley Wood 232
S. Diinnii, a Transvaal plant, and the progeny of these plants is said now to rival the Gloxinias in beauty. Some of our Gladioli, Clivias. Kniphofias and others have been similarly used and are now great favourites in cultivation. In the coast or sub-tropical district flowers are to be found almost (he year round, but in the upper districts during the winter months they are but little seen, the veld being brown and quite bare of flowers, and the forests dark and sombre, with scarcelj' a flower to enliven the scene. As soon as the spring rains have fairly set in this is quite changed, the young grass becomes emerald green and the veld is studded with flowers of the most varied colours, and a railway journey in the upper districts becomes a real treat to the lover of flowers. The traveller at this season can hardly fail to note how important a part the railways take in the distribu- tion of our native plants ; and being fenced on both sides and cattle e.xcluded, the oiants come to matuiity and bear their seeds which are scattered far and wide for long distances, while outside|the railway fences, especially tov.-ards the close of the season, all is barren and dull, cattle and sheep having eaten and trampled down the plants until but few flowers are seen. It is unfortunate that our railways in the upper districts do not pass near to any of the large forests, for it is in and around the margin of these forests that our flora is seen at its best. Inside the forest the cl mbing plants find their way to the tops of the trees, where they bear their flowers and mature their seeds, while the branches and stems of many of the larger trees are frequenth" covered with epiphytal Orchids of different species, mostly bearing white or yellowish flowers, which, however, are of botanical interest only, while the margins of the brooks are literally covered with many charming and interesting ferns, and from the trees and rocks are often seen hanging in profusion the curious Lycopodinm gnidioides and L. verticillatiim, with Selaginella Kraiissinana carpeting the ground beneath. Though our epiphytal Orchids are not very showy, many of the terrestrial ones are exceedingly so. They commence flowering when the spring has fairly set in, and the different species flower in succession until about the end of March, an exceo- tion being the pretty little Swan Orchid {Cynorchis compacta) which flowers in July and August ; it is peculiar to Natal and is rather rare. It is much to be regretted that people will persist in digging out the roots of these plants when they are in flower, with the result that not one in a hundred survives, the plants at that time not having matured the tuber for the next season's flowering.
Amongst the forest trees bearing conspicuous flowers we may mention the Cape Chestnut {Calodendron capense) with large trusses of lavender-purple-spotted flowers ; Natal Bottle Brush (Greyia Sutherlandi) with spikes of brilliant scarlet flowers ; several species of Erythrina all with scarlet papilionaceous flowers, and the singular Alberta magna of the midlands, whose flowers are a dullish red, but whose winged seed-vessels become bright scarlet and remain a considerable time on the tree, rendering it conspicuous even at a considerable distance. In the upper districts Dais cotinifolia with pink flowers is often seen and admired, and on the coast the Umzimbiti {Millettia caffra) with purple flowers; Isifiti (Baphia racsmosa) with white and orange sweetly scented flowers, and Scholia brachypetala with deep crimson ones.
Belonging to the genus Euphorbi.a we have many species ranging from the small; E. sanguinea, which is trodden under foot on walks and bare places all over the Colony," to the large arborescent species such as E. grandidens, E. arboresceiis, and E. tiriicalli, which are found on the Coast and in the midlands, and are often mistaken for Cacti, to some members of which order they bear a close resemblance. The two first-named species are singular objects, being apparently leafless, and standing gaunt and bare on the hills
233
NATIVE STUDIES
in rocky places or in the bush; the milky juice of these plants is vesicant, and has been used for painting the copper on the bottoms of ships to preserve from rust or fouling. In the midland and upper districts we have also most singular specimens of this genus which have the appearance of large boulders, an appearance caused by the dense growth
234
of the numerous stems which are closely appressed to each other, and only attain a height of 10 to 15 inches. Another singular genus of plants, some members of which are often mistaken for Cacti, is Stapclia, belonging to the order of Asclepiads ; the headquarters ot this genus is Cape, Orange River Colonies and Transvaal, but the species bearing the largest flowers is a native of Natal, and is known as Siapelia gigantca ; all, or nearly all, of the flowers of this genus of plants are unpleasantly scented and are popularly known as " Carrion Flowers. "i^.
In rocky places, edges of precipices, and occasionally in open ground at from 2,000 feet above sea level to the Drakensberg, are found three or four species of Encephalartos ; these plants belong to the order Cycadaceae, and are a connecting link between the flowering plants and the ferns, having the venation and sometimes the vernation of the ferns and the fructification of the conifers ; thev have a trunk some- times reaching to nearly twent}' feet in height, crowned with a rosette of fronds each four to six feet or more in length, which are renewed every second year, in the alternate ^-ears the plants bearing cones, those of the female plant containing a number of scarlet seeds, those of the
male, pollen only ; in encephalartos altensteni
the wild state these plants seldom bear more than a single cone in each season, but a plant in the Durban Botanic Gardens bore in one year, 13, and in another 11 cones, this being a male plant.
Of PALMS we have two species only, Hyphaene crinila, having fan-like leaves, and being a near relative of the " Doum Palm " of Egypt {Hyphaene thebaica) ; this plant is never, in Natal, found far from the sea coast, nor does it, except in favoured situations, attain a large size, though in some parts of Zululand it is very luxuriant ; a fine specimen of it may be seen in the Durban Botanic Gardens, but unfortunately it is a male plant ; the other species is PAot'/ii.v reclinatiT,a.n(l is found in great luxuriance in the coast districts reaching to 2,000 feet above sea level, its very graceful feathery fronds giving quite a tropical aspect to the scenery. Another plant found in the same localities and often in company with it is Stretlitzia Augusta, which is a very conspicuous object on the South Coast line after passing Isipingo, its enormous simple leaves, and curious orange and blue bird-like flowers are very attractive, and it is one of the few plants that are fertilised by birds]; it is much grown for ornament in Europe, and can be seen on the South Coast
235
I.JAN i DA 1 I. I'M. MS
line in company with the Hyphaene and Phoenix. In the valley of the Tugela river, and perhaps in a few other places in the Colony is to be found a tree known as Kigelia pinnaia, a tree which is perhaps more plentiful in some parts of Rhodesia than in Natal ; it bears very large dull purple flowers three or four inches in diameter, followed by a fruit hanging from a long footstalk which lengthens as the fruit matures ; this fruit is cylindrical in shape, and hard and woody, weighing several pounds. Two specimens of it are in the Durban Botanic Gardens, where they regularly bear their flowers and fruits.
For shade-giving trees we have on the coast theUmkuhla (Trichilia emetica) fine specimens of which may be seen on the Berea. and which as a beautiful shade-tree can scarcely be surpassed. Several species of Ficiif, both on the coast and in the midlands yield good shade, as also does the singular Flatcrown [Zygia fasligiata) so common in coast districts ; Hibiscus liliaceous is frequently planted in the streets of Durban, but it is essentially a coast plant. The chief TIMBER yielding trees are the Yellow-wood (Podocarpus spp) : Milkwood {Mimiisops spp.) ; Stinkwood (Ocotea hiillata) ; Sneezewood (Plcrozyion utile) ; Flatcrown [Zigia jastigiata) and a few others of less importance.
Though Natal can hardly yet.be called a large fruit-producing colony.there are indications
236
I hat it may soon become so ; hitherto the great hindrance to fruit growing has been the large number of insect pests that fruit-bearing trees have to contend with, but since the appointment of a Government Entomologist, the life history of these insects is being better^understood, and means employed for keeping them in check, as has perforce to be done in most parts of the world where fruit is extensively grown.
The principal FRUITS grown in the coast districts are : Avacado Pear, Banana, Brazil Cherry, Cherimoj^er, Custard Apple, Granadilla, Grape Vine, Guava, Lemon, Litchi, Mango, Mandarin Orange, Mulberry, Naartje, Orange (common). Pawpaw, Pineapple, Raspberry, Rose Apple. Strawberry, Sour Sop, Sweet Sop, and to this list have recently been added the Sapodillo of S. America (Sapota achras), and the Star Apple of the West Indies {Chrysophyllum cainiio).
In the upper districts, reaching from Maritzburg to the slopes of the Drakensberg,
the following fruits are com- monly grown : Apple, Apricot, .\lmond. Blackberry, Fig, Grape. Medlar. Mulberry, Nectarine, Peach, Persimmon (Diospyros sp.). Plum. Plum Japanese, Pomegranate, Quince, and Wal- nut, but Cherries, Currants, and Gooseberries, though often tried, have not yet been successful!)* grown in quantity in Natal.
Of wild edible fruits we have but few of any importance. The Amatungulu {Carissa grandi- flora), and the Cape Gooseberry (Physali peruviana), take the first place and are much used ; we have also two species of \'ine, Vitis Capensis, and Vitis cnneiflia, the fruits of which are used for preser\-es, the Cumquin {Dovyalis rhamnoides), one or two species of Ficus, several species of Mimiisops, Water- boom (Eugenia cordata), two species of Rubus, and a few others, the fruits of which are eaten by natives and children but are not worth enumeration here.
Most of the VEGETABLES known in England are cultivated almost all over the Colony, except, perhaps, Onions, which are only successfully grown in
237
certain localities, such as the Mooi River, Weenen. and the " Thorns, " where they are said to succeed fairly well, and in addition we have several culinary vegetables that are not commonly met with in England, such as the Egg fruit. Tree Tomato, Ochro, and one or two Cucurbitaceous fruits introduced and chiefly grown for sale by the Indian gardeners, who produce the greater portion of the vegetables used in the coast towns. In the upper districts collections of vegetables numbering from thirty to forty species grown by Europeans are sometimes seen at the flower shows.
Of CEREALS, the chief one grown in the Colony is Maize or Mealies (Zccrt Mays). Oats are also grown, but only as forage : in certain districts where irrigation can be used. Barley succeeds well, but Wheat cannot be successfully grown in many parts of the Colony.
The GRASSES of the Colony are luxuriant and many of them are e.vcellent lor stock, but some districts have been so overstocked with cattle that it has been found necessary to imjiort foreign grasses for the benefit of graziers. FERNS arc plentiful in woods and shady places, and not less than 126 species are indigenous to the colony, the sides of the streams, and the rocks and stones in the dense, shady, damp bush being often clothed with masses of their graceful foliage. The Tree Fern {Cyallica Drcgci) is a very handsome plant and often attains a height of 15 feet or more, crowned with a magnificent head of spreading fronds, and is usually found near water courses all over the Colony, and often on the sides or at the foot of dry hills ; one only other Tree Fern indigenous to Natal is Hemitelia Capensis, but this is only found in damp woods, its trunk reaches to fifteen or twenty feet in height, but unlike that of Cyathca Dregci it is seldom straight, and often prostrate : but its fronds are quite as fine or finer than those of the Cyathea.
The chief CROPS grown for export in the colony are, in the coast and midlands : Sugar, Tea, Coffee, Arrowroot. Maize, and fruit of different kinds, and in the ujipcr districts Maize and Fruit, while large quantities of different crops arc grown as food lor cattle, the upper districts being better suited for cattle and sheep than for arable farming.
FIBRE has been and still is produced but not yet in large quantities, the plant grown for the purpose being a Fourcroya, the fibre being commonly known as Mauritius Hemp, but it is quite possible that this industry may yet flourish in Natal, and that fibre may be produced either from the Fourcroya, the Insangu or Native Hemp, or Umbogozembe (Urera tenax) all of which plants yield a good marketable fibre.
INDIGO has lately been suggested, and as the plant Indigo/era arrecta which is considered to be the best species for the manufacture of the pigment is a native of Natal there seems to be little reason why it should not be extensively cultivated here in the future ; the seed ot our plant has been collected and sent to Java, where it has realised a high jirice. From recent information it appears quite likely that the natural article will be able to compete successfull\- with the artificial one now being produced on the continent of Europe, and the plant is found growing in profusion nearly all over the Colony.
For information as to the systematic botany of the Colony the reader is referred to " Harvey's Genera of South African Plants." "Flora Cajiensis." "Popular Description of Natal Ferns, " and the "Preliminary Catalogue ol Natal Plants," by J. Medley Wood. A handbook to the Flora, with Keys to the Orders and Genera, is in course of preparation and will shortly be issued from the Colonial Herbarium.
Of big game there is but little left in Natal. A few hippopotami, near the Umgeni, are about all on record of this class. Hyienas are still abundant in the wilder portions of the Colony. There are three varieties known, the brown, the maned, and the Hyccna Maculata, called the tiger wolf by the
FAUNA
238
SUB-TROPICAL FOLIAGE
Dutch. Jackals also
abound in places.
Leopards, locally
called " tigers " are
somewhat rare, but
may occasionalh' be
encountered in the
more remote fast- nesses. Wild boars of
two varieties exist.
The porcupine, though
frequent, is a par- ticularly shy animal
and most difficult to
capture.
Of rodents theie are
manj' varieties. Two
descriptions of haies
are constantly to be
seen on the uplands,
while an engaging
little creature, familiarly known as the "dassie" or rock-rabbit, is of common occurrence.
The ant-eater of Natal is a curious and interesting animal, and can but rarely be shot. It is, however, in antelopes that the country is richest, about ten varieties being
extant in the colony.
Baboons of great size abound in the mountain ranges, while droves of black-faced mon- keys can con- stantly be seen in the large forests.
Crocodiles haunt the rivers of the coast, but attract little attention, as it but seldom hap- pens that damage is caused by them. Otters are found in some portions of the Colony.
Of reptiles and insects there is a large and inter- esting variety.
THE BLACK RHINOCEROS WITH CALF
239
Key to Photographic Phtes of a complete collection of
HORNS
^'^"^ SOUTH AFRICAN ANTELOPE . . . .
With l,ocal and Scientific Names.
(]HO. T. KhRNEYHOUGH, K.R.C.S.
'Ci>f>yri^hl Series.)
|
t i.-BUSBBUCK |
Tra<;elaphus Silvalma. |
|
2.— RED 13USHBUCK of the Zambesi |
Traf^i'laphus—gcitus — |
|
+ 3.— INYAI.A - |
Tragilapliiis Angasi. |
|
4.-SITATUNGA |
Trnf;ilii/<hiis Sf>ekti. |
|
t 5.— REEDBUCK ■ |
Ct-rvicapra iiriiiitlimim. |
|
+ 6.--RE1) RHEBUCK |
Cervicapra Lalandii. |
|
1 7.— VAAL RHEHLXK |
Plica capriohis. |
|
t 8.-STEENBL'CK |
Sanotraf^us crmpi-strio. |
|
+ 9.- GKVSBUCK |
Xnnotragiis melaiiolis |
|
lo.-ZULULANO STEENBLCK |
■ — Genus and Species — |
|
• II. -BLUEBUCK PETE |
CepUalclaphus vionticota. |
|
• 12— NATAL REDBUCK |
- Opiialilaplnis natalcnsis |
|
• 13. B0NTE15LCK |
Panmlis pvgarga. |
|
+ 14.-DUIKER |
Ciphalciaphiis grimniii. |
|
• 15. -SPRINGBUCK |
Gazclla Ecfwre |
|
i 16. — KLIP SPRINGER |
Orestragus sallator. |
|
f 17.— PALLA - - |
■ Mpyceros nielampiis. |
|
t i8.-\VATERBL'CK ■ - |
Kohus elllpsiprymnits. |
|
t ig.— KOODOO |
SIrcpsiceros Kudu. |
|
+ 20.-LECHWE |
Kohus lechcc. |
|
• 21. -ELAND ■ |
Ortas eauna. |
|
• 22.-HARTEBEEST |
liuhalis Caatna. |
|
23.- LICHTENSTEIN HAKTEBEEST |
Buhalis Liililiiisleini. |
|
• 24.— SASSABVE - . . |
Diimalis luuatus. |
|
• 25.-BLESBUCK |
Damaits atbi/rous. |
|
• 26.— ROAN ANTELOPE |
Hippotragus cquinus. |
|
• 27.— SABLE ANTELOPE |
Hippotragus uiger. |
|
• 28.-GEMSBUCK |
Oryx Gazella. |
|
t 29.— ORIBI ■ |
Nauotragus sioparius. |
|
+ 30.-POOKOO |
Kohus Vardnnii. |
|
• 31.— BUFFALO |
Bos Caffcr. |
|
• 32.— BLUE VVILDEBEESTE |
Canuochatcs tauriiins. |
|
- 33.-BLACK VVILDEBEESTE ■ ■ . . . - |
Cauiiochu'lts gun. |
The * denotes that the Female as well as the Male has horns.
240
The t that the Male only has horns.
l-'cnifvlioit^li
Hum
Hit Hi
Fcincyhoush
^i
t^hvlos oj Horm by I'tnuyhuUKh
HORNS Ol- Till-. SOLlH AlKICAN ANTELOl'l-:
242
2+3
244
Pvthons attain a considerable size, but are very harmless. Of poisonous and deadly serpents there are many, chief among which may be mentioned the black mamba, whose bite is said to cause a'most immediate death. The puff-adder ranks next, but although its bite is deadly, its movements are so slow as to greath' minimise the danger.
There is a great variety of birds. Those coming under the category of game would alone make a heavy list. Partridge, pheasant, quail, and pigeons are all well represented. The wild bustard, or " paauw " is a magni- ficent creature, some- times standing five feet high, and showing an eight-feet spread of wing. Stilted birds, or long- legged waders, are in considerable force, while curlew and snipe, wild duck and geese abound bj- the lonelier rivers.
With respect to fish, much cannot be said at present. Of local varieties, there are sand and mud bream, barbel, and eels, and trout and salmon ova have been introduced in many of the streams.
The kloofs and river valleys teem with myri- ads of the most beauti- ful and delicately- coloured insects. The late Professor Henry Drummond. in his "Tro- pical Africa " dealt with this department oi science, and the student would do well to study the work before com- mencing his researches.
* From the entomo- logical point of view the
</':,i.f ;
rKAVING .MAMIDS (HOllKNTOT GODS)
ENTO.MOLOGIC.AL
insects of Natal — many as thev" are — are an unknown quantity-, scarcely anything being known of their natural economy, their life cycles and habits ; only a small portion of them having been systematicallj- classified and described.
The sections most generally worked are the Butterflies and Beetles — the well-trodden track of all English Entomologists. Recently, the more conspicuous moths have received
245
attention,' hut. among tlie other Orders,' little, il any, systematic work has been, or is being done, and a wide field lies open for investigation.
The Department of Entomology is ])rincipally concerned witii the interests of .Agriculture and Commerce, in the develo]imcnt of which such radical changes have occurred during ihc |)ast eight or leii xc.irs. that many troublesome insects have been
U'lale II)
QUEEN MDiH (Argcina iiiiinoscE)
distributed through the world, and others, erstwhile the casual denizens of half-exi)lored territories, have now become scourges to many countries.
Natal is usually credited, more jiarticularly by its own inhabitants, with being full of insect pests. Undoubtedly they are numerous and include some of a destructive nature ; still, they are not more numerous than is the case in many other countries with similar climatic conditions and. furthermore, there exist in those countries many pests, which, so far, have not found a footing in Natal.
246
The agricultural pests which do occur are, perhaps on account of the mixed farming which prevails, more felt by the community than is the case elsewhere ; and, were it possible to limit the operations of the farm to a less number of branches, the effect of the pests which attack stock, trees, and crops, would not be felt so much as is now the case.
The accompanying plates illustrate several Natal insects which have been selected rather for convenience than effect ; but which cannot fail to arouse some interest. Plate I. is devoted to a group of Praying Mantids, or, as they are more popularly known, " Hot- tentot Gods." These carnivorous insects occur in Natal in great varieties both of colour and shape ; and feed voraciously upon other insects, as well as upon one another, when occasions arise. They gain their common name of Praying Mantids from the peculiar and devout attitude which they assume just before meals. According to an old legend, St. Francis Xavier, on seeing a Mantis moving slowly along with its forelegs raised as
{/'late III.)
NA'iM. COAST MOTH ( Lopliostitli US duiiiolinii)
if in devotion, desired it to sing the praises of God, which it immediately did in a very beautiful canticle. But strictly speaking, it is more a " preying " than a " praying " insect, and is characterised by the remarkable front legs, the function of which is to seize and hold any hapless insect which may fall into its relentless clutches. Plate H. illustrates the handsome " Queen Moth " of Natal {Afgema mimoscr). a beautiful sea-green insect, whose wings measure, when outspread, more than five inches from tip to tip. The cater- pillars of this species feed upon the foliage of the Thornbush or Mimosa, and the silken cocoons which they spin are familiar to all visitors to Natal, in the shape of the rattling anklets worn by 'ricksha boys, who gather the cocoons after the moths have emerged, place a few pebbles in them and close the holes by first moistening and then twisting up the loosened strands. Plate 111. illustrates a very fine moth (Lophostiihus dumolinii), found upon the coast of the colony. This moth gives an expanse of wing of over six inches from tip to tip.
(* Xo/rs inid plii/cs hv Mr. Claude Fuller, Government Entomologist).
247
By way of warning to sportsmen, it may be mentioned that a law for the ])rotection of the various descriptions of game is in force in the Colony ol Natal. Persons are prohibited, between the i6th August and 30th A]>ril (both dates inclusive), from hunting or killing certain varieties of birds known as the partridge, pheasant, dikko]>, crane, wild guinea fowl, wild duck, wild geese, and turkey buz- zard ; also hares, rabbits, and all varieties of the antelope species, such as the imjjala, rheebok, boschbok, bluebok, klipspringer, duiker, eland, springbok, and imbabala. The
GAME LAWS NATAL
hippopotamus (sea-cow), hartebeest, koodoo, reitbok, rooi reibok, steinbok, blcsbok. red boschbok, oribi, paauw, koraan. crane, ostrich, and secretary-bird, all known as Royal Game, may not be killed excepting by special licence from the Governor, which can only be given between the ist May and 15th August. The following insccti\orous and other wild birds may not be killed except by express permission of the Go\ernor for the purposes of scientific research, viz., locus bird (large or small) tick-!iird (red beak), swallows (all varieties), wagtail, and white stork.
In Zululand the partridge, pheasant, koraan. and guinea fowl may not be killed between the 1st September and 31st March. The wild duck and paauw are similarly protected from the 1st October to 31st March. From the 1st September to the last day of Februarj- is the "closed" season
ZULULAND
24S
for hares, rabbits, buffalo, waterbuck, wildebeest, gnu, koodoo, klipspringer, inhlegane, red buck finkumbi), rheebok, steenbok, reitbok, boschbok, bluebok, and duiker.
The following may not be killed without a written permission from the Governor, or Resident Commissioner : the elephant and white rhinoceros, the roan antelope, impala, oribi, and inyala, the quagga, zebra, eland, hartebeest. springbok, blesbok, ostrich, secretary-bird, and turkey buzzard.
The hippopotamus and black rhinoceros may only be killed on payment of /lo for each animal named in a special licence to be obtained from the Governor, or Resident Commissioner ; Dut not more than two of each of these animals may be killed by the same person in any one year.
On game preserves, the killing of large game is prohibited, unless by special licence costing £io per month, which can only be issued on certain conditions.
By reason of the fortunate position of Natal on the earth's surface, it is not only one
of the most salubrious countries in the world, but it,
CLIM.ATIC AND OTHER CONDITIONS
as has already been pointed out in a general way, enjoys a scale of climates not often obtainable in one country, and in such a comparatively limited area. Being in the South temperate zone, about 230 miles at its northern point from the Tropic of Capricorn, its climates may be described as warm, temperate, sub-tropical, and in some cases cold.
The steppes, already described, rise from sea level to an altitude of two and a quarter miles above it, in the distance of little more than one hundred miles. The various climates of these steppes are clearly marked and defined, thereby rendering the Colony one of the finest of health resorts. At Pietermaritzburg, the capital, 2,218 feet, the average yearly Temperature is about 64°. At rare intervals, during a few days in Summer time, the temperature rises as high as 98°, while in Winter it sometimes falls as low as 28°. These, however, are occasional extravagances, for as a rule the mean is well maintained. At Durban the average is 69^°, and the extremes 98° and 42'. The average daily range does not exceed 20° however. In the Winter months frost is sometimes seen on the coast lands, even at the sea level. Snow storms occur yearly in the uplands, and, as already stated, snow-clad peaks are no uncommon sight upon the Berg.
Disregarding light showers the average number of rainy days in Durban is 52 in Summer and 21 in Winter. The number of thunderstorms averages 24 during the Summer and 5 during the Winter months, but of late the number of thunderstorms occurring in the neighbourhood of Durban has undergone a marked diminution.
Roughlv speaking there are only two Se.vsons in Natal, Summer and Winter. The former commences in October and ends with March. At midsummer the sun rises at five and sets at seven o'clock. At midwinter it rises at seven and sets at five. The twilight both in Winter and in Summer is exceedingly short. The Spring and Autumn are both brief, and so blended with the other seasons, as to be difficult of recognition.
249
METEOROLOGICAL.
TABLK or .Mi;.\.\ \ \i.ri:.s \t in ruw. ii:.\ vi:.\ks— iSijj-iooi.
|
Year. |
Mean Barometer. |
Means of Temperature. |
Mean Moisture. |
Rainfall. |
Mean Wind Force. |
isi |
||
|
Max. Mean. | Min. |
||||||||
|
Inches. |
0 0 |
° Grains. |
Inches. |
Unit. |
||||
|
1892 «893 1894 1895 1896 1897 1898 1899 1900 1901 |
30.066 30.098 30.114 30. 100 30.114 30. lor 30-103 30.129 30.100 30 . 20 |
80.69 78.70 79.00 79.20 81.10 80. iq 79-25 79.20 81.00 79.02 |
71.90 70-9.i 7 '-.SO 71.10 72.80- 72- 25 71-4.? 72-o.i 73- '9 7 '-30 |
62.01 61 . 10 61 .20 61 .40 62.90 62.04 60.67 61.78 62.82 61.45 |
6.10 6.20 6.10 6.00 6.18 6.02 5-79 5.90 6.06 5-93 |
38-37 71.27 37-27 5 1 . SO 39-63 34-39 42.48 28.75 27.24 55-54 |
1.38 1-32 1-35 1. 05 1. 01 1. 14 0.94 0.88 1 .02 • 91 |
50.9 50.9 47-9 48.2 46.2 44-0 40.8 48.0 47-1 46.9 |
TAHLK OV MEAN XAI.IKS Al' SrHSIl^)! AKV STATIONS.
|
.\verage Temperature |
Ayerage |
Average |
Average |
||
|
Subsidiary |
for 5 |
Years. |
Highest |
Lowest |
.Annual |
|
Station |
Annual Temper- |
Annual Temper- |
Rainfall for |
||
|
Daily Max. |
Daily Min. |
||||
|
(in shade). |
(in shade). |
ature. |
ature. |
5 years. |
|
|
°Fahr. |
'Fahr. |
°Fahr. |
"Fahr. |
Inches. |
|
|
Stanger |
81.0 |
60.2 |
108.8 |
44-6 |
38.06 |
|
Verulam |
82.6 |
60.9 |
10;. 8 |
41.0 |
35-38 |
|
Grevtowii . . |
78.7 |
56.2 |
96.2 |
31.8 |
33-26 |
|
Newcastle |
78.1 |
52.2 |
lOI .3 |
27-4 |
33-70 |
|
Estcourt |
78.8 |
50.1 |
99-4 |
26.6 |
27-93 |
|
Richmond.. |
75-3 |
52.6 |
102.2 |
33-6 |
38-30 |
|
Port Shepstone . |
77-9 |
60.8 |
98.1 |
45-8 |
45.98 |
|
Maritzlnirg |
79-8 |
53-0 |
106.0 |
32.0 |
33-80 |
|
Howick |
77-1 |
48.7 |
100.2 |
24.8 |
31.08 |
|
Weenen |
83.6 |
49-4 |
107.2 |
23.0 |
24-34 |
|
AVERAGE |
RAINFALL— TEN |
YEARS : 42 (^3 |
Inxhes. |
|
Distributed over : |
|||
|
January |
. 4.23 Inches. |
July |
. . 0.63 Inches. |
|
February |
■ 4-65 |
.\ugust |
.. 1.44 |
|
March . . |
- 4-94 |
September |
.. 5-18 |
|
April . . |
■ 3-47 |
October |
.. 5-59 |
|
May . . |
■ 1-75 |
Noyember |
.. 4-63 |
|
June . . |
.0.92 |
December |
..5.20 |
The population of Natal including Zululand, in the year 1901, was: Europeans 63.821, (of whom fifty per cent, were born in the Colony) ; Natives 786,912; Indians and other Asiatics 74,385 — a total of '925, 118. Military, aliens, and refugees are not included. The new territories recently annexed represent approximately a further 8,000 white inhabitants, and 50,000 natives.
POPULATION
250
The ENGLISH settlers devote their energies chiefly to commercial, agricultural, and industrial pursuits. The DUTCH are mainly pastoral and agricul- tural workers. : "Most of the English occupy and cluster round the
PEOPLES
various towns and \-illages, while the Dutch affect the more outlying districts of the country.
AN INDIAN'
GIRL
mk
d
B. W. Canty
There are also a good number of Germans, French Creoles, and other nationalities in the Colony.
The INDIANS are, generally speaking, taken'from the labouring classes of their own fountry. Indian labour was introduced to Natal because the natives, who are not yet educated up to the necessity of daily toil, were so intermittent and unreliable as workers,
2.51
as to seriously jeopardise the Colony's agricultural prospects. Much was written against the introduction of coolie labour at first, hut Coloni-its speedily came to appreciate
INDIAN 1 RL IT SELLERS, DLKH.XN
the advantage of a steady and reliable labour supjily. Taken on the whole, the Indians have proved their value, and but little is now urged against them. The Indian population is under the especial care of an official called the " Protector of Indian Emigrants."
NATIVES
2S2
The NATIVES claim a more detailed notice, not only because of their numbers, but by reason of the absorbing interest which they naturally possess for everj- European. Their quaintness and simplicity, combined with their acuteness and shrewdness, is most remarkable.
The student of human character will hnd ni their good nature, curious customs and methods of thought, a theme of the most profound interest. In them he will discover primitive man, unaltered almost by the innovations of later centuries. Combined in the most wonderful manner are the vices incidental to humanity, yet strange to say, by- codes of their own, with which the white man lias had nothing whatever to do, they have
established beneficial regulations, the wisdom of which will be at once admitted by the cultivated observer.
They are a splendid stalwart nation, loyal to England and to their benefactors, the colonists, and law-abiding. Life comes easily to them, and their wants being few and simple, thc\- toil but little for their livelihood.
They pay a hut tax of fourteen shillings a year only, and can be truly described as a people without care. The amount paid by them to the Government in 1901 as taxes under the above heading, was £140. 429 representing 200,612 huts. In marriage fees they pay about £"2,000 per annum.
Under the heading of Productions will be found the amount of stock held, and land cultivated bv them.
253
The total area of latid occupied l>y natives in locations (exclusive of the Province of Zululand, the greater j)ortion of which is used by natives) is 2.010.040 .icr.^s, scattered over eighteen of the twenty-six magisterial districts in Natal.
Their clothing, away from civilization, consists of the very scantiest garmciUs or skins.
In their domestic life the nati\'es ajijieal most jiowerfuUy to the interest of the Eurojjeans. They are polygamists, and stand at this present juncture of their history in a curious position. Living as they do in the locations, and under the flomination of their own
->CMI&
K.Xlik \M1(.H UOCIOR
;; II C.M^v
chieftains, who are again subject to white magistrates, they follow the old patriarchal style of existence. Regarding women as mere creatures of their pleasure, it is difficult to make much headway in connection with their conversion to Christianity. Cattle are used by them as currency, and girls are bartered, but in such transactions there is nothing revolting, neither is the liberty of the subject materially interfered with. The transactions are as far removed from slavery as possible ; for instance, if an old man possessing wealth desires to purchase a young girl who happens to have predilections elsewhere, it generally happens that the old man fails. Cases of coercion and oppression do occur, but perhaps not more frequently than amongst European communities. The amount of cattle given for a wife ranges, according to her station in life, from six to fifty head — the usual number being from ten to fifteen.
The Natal Zulu still believes in witchcraft, prophecy, love [ihiltrcs. and such like. He is finnly fixed in his mind that the witch doctors and sangomas (female diviners) have power to bring rain, to trace spells of witchcraft, to heal by incantation, and to perform sundry other wonders and miracles. In his mythology he has as curious a collection ot Spirits as ever had the old English, Irish, and Scotch. The inswelaboya (hairless one) is of these, and no end of mischief and terror arc caused by his supposed ravages. The mahlosi, or guardian spirits of the dead, are supposed to enter the bodies of green mambas (a kind of snake). These reptiles take refuge in the weed-grown fences of the
254
kraals or villages, and are regarded as sacred. Now and again sacrifices of flesh are offered to the reputed guardians. At harvest times, he natives have a feast of first fruits, (somewhat analagous to the ancient festival of " Ceres ") when numbers of maidens decked with flowers, cast offerings into the river, dedicating them to the Inkosizana (chieftainess). Their marriages are made occasions for rejoicing, beer-drinking, and a general gathering together. Oft-times the feasts terminate in tribal brawls and broken heads. Many other instances of the customs and superstitions of the natives might be given, but enough has been outlined to indicate the interest of the subject. The natives dwell in bee-hive huts, built in circles, the central portion of each kraal or village being occupied by their cattle. They are not great as workers of metal, but show an instinctive talent for wire-working, bead stringing, wood and bone carving, mat making, tanning and pottery. Some of their necessary household utensils display considerable artistic merit. They make good soldiers and policemen, having a keen sense of the necessity of discipline. During the Zulu War they were on more than one occasion distinguished for, bravery in battle, when they ranged themselves with the whites against their own kinsmen.
The language of the natives is a beautiful and musical one, with the peculiarity that every word either begins or ends with a vowel, the penultimate syllable being invariably accentuated. The result is euphonious, and the language may be regarded as the parent aboriginal one of South. East, and Central Africa.
INTERIOR OF ? KAFIR HUT
B. U'. Ciiuy
NATAL is divided into eight counties, namely, four on the Coast bel' — ALFRED,
ALEXANDRA. ' DURBAN, and VICTORL^ ; three in the Midlands— PIETERMARITZBURG, WEENEN, and UM\'OTI ; and one in the north of the Colony— KLIP RIVER County. All vary in climate according to situation and elevation above sea level. The coun-
COUNTIES, TOWNS, VILLAGES,
AND MEANS OF ACCESS
ties are again divided into districts, each district being presided over by a Magistrate.
255
The lollowing table gives the towns and villages in the several Counties, and the means of access thereto :
|
COUNTIES. |
TOWNSHIPS. |
VILLAGES. |
RAIL OR POSI CART ACCESS. |
|
Allreil |
Nil. |
I'url Shepstoue |
South Coast Line. |
|
Marhiiri; |
\'ia Port Shepstone. [liichmond. |
||
|
Harding |
Post Cart from Port Shepstone or |
||
|
Alexandra |
Nil. |
Umkomaas (S. Barrow) |
South Coast Line. |
|
Scottsburg |
South Coast Line. |
||
|
Umzinto |
Umzinto Bch. via Alexandra Jet. |
||
|
(South Coast Line.) |
|||
|
Durban . . |
Durban (Seaport) |
Sydciiliaiii |
Berea Suburb of Durban. |
|
Umgeni |
North Coast Line. |
||
|
Isipingo |
South Coast Line. |
||
|
Be lair |
Main Line. |
||
|
Pinetown |
Main Line. |
||
|
Victoria . . |
Verulam |
North Coast Line. |
|
|
Tongaat (Victoria) |
North Coast Line. |
||
|
fmtilali |
North Coast Line. |
||
|
Stanger |
North Coast Line. |
||
|
Pietermaritzburg |
P.M. Burg (Capital) |
Main Line. |
|
|
Kichmond |
Richmond Bch. via Thornville Jet. (Main Line). |
||
|
Byrne |
Via Richmond. |
||
|
•Stuartstown |
Post Cart from liichmond. |
||
|
{Ixopo) |
|||
|
Camperdown |
Main Line. |
||
|
*Edcndale |
Post Cart from Pietermaritzburg. |
||
|
*Bulwcr |
Post Cart from Pietermaritzburg. |
||
|
Howick |
Main Line. |
||
|
*I»ipitidhla |
Via Dargle Road {.Main Line). |
||
|
Lidgetton |
Main Line. |
||
|
Nottingham |
Via Nottingham Road {Main Line), |
||
|
York |
Via Impolweni {Greytown Branch). |
||
|
Kirchdorf |
Via New Hanover {Greytown Branch). |
||
|
New Hanover |
Greytown Branch Line. |
||
|
Klip River |
Ladysmith |
Main Line. |
|
|
Nevvcastle |
Main Line. |
||
|
Dundee |
Dundee Branch, DiaGlcncoe Jet. (M.L.) |
||
|
Van Reenen |
Ilarrisniith Bch., via Ladysmith(M.L.) |
||
|
Pomeroy |
Via Dundee. |
||
|
'Upper Tiigela |
Post Cart from Ladysmith. |
||
|
Charlestown |
Main Line. |
||
|
Umvoti |
Greytown |
Greytown Bch., via Pietermaritzburg. |
|
|
Hermansburg |
Greytown Rch.,i;/fl Pietermaritzburg. |
||
|
, |
Krantikop Weston |
Post Cart from Greytown. |
|
|
Weenen . . |
Nil. |
Via Moot River {Main Line). |
|
|
Estcourt |
Main Line. |
||
|
Weenen |
Post Cart from Estcourt. |
||
|
Colenso |
Main Line. |
(1) Refer to Index for pages dealin*; with each )>lacc.
(2) Access to the seitlements in ilalifs is gained by Post Cart where shewn, oihcrwise by private coiixeyantc,
(3) * Railway communication cither authorised or under cun&ideraiion.
<.(> The newly-acquired territory not having been exactly defined at the time of wiitinR, its towns and %ill;iges are not shewn.
Zululand is not included in the foregonig. This Province is divided into the following Magisterial Districts : ESHOWE, EMTONJAXEXI, NQUTU, MAHLA- BATIXI, XDWAXDWE, UBOMBO, IXGWAVUXA, UMLALAZI, LOWER UMFOLOZI, HALBISA, and XKAXDHLA. Eshovve is the principal town, and the only other villages
are Melmoth and Xond- weni. The first two places are reached by Post cart from Gingin- hlovu fXorth Coast Branch Line, see page 170) and the last-named settlement, via Dundee.
GOVERNMENT
A PAIR OF LOVERS
Trappisis
On the 20th July, 1893, Natal was con- stituted a self-governing < olony, with Upper and Lower Houses of Parlia- ment. The Legislative ''ouncil, as the Upper House is termed, con- ■-ists of twelve members hosen by the Governor m Council. Five of these members must belong to Durban, Victoria, Alexandra, and Alfred Counties: three to Pietermaritzburg and Umvoti Counties, three to Weenen and Klip River Counties, and one to the Province of Zululand. Not more than two members maj- be chosen from the same county. The Governor appoints one of the twelve members as President of the Council . The Lower House, or Legislative Assembly, consists of thirty-nine members, chosen by election of the people. Anj^ person who is a
-J/
s
ir. H'iitiuii lit^uciuuii
SIR HENRY F.nWAUD MgCALLL'M, R.l:., A.D.C, K.C.M.fi GOVERNOR OF NAIAI. AND ZULULAND
^58
IHE NATAL MINISTRY- YEAR 1002.
9 ^
The Hon. C. J. SMYTHE.
Colonial Secretary and Minister of Education.
The Hon. H. D. WINTER. Minister of Agriculture.
The Hon. Sir W. AKBUCKLE. President of Legislative Council.
The Rt. Hon. Sir ALBERT MIME,
R.K.. K.C.M.G..
Premier and Minister of Lands and Works.
Thi^ Hon. SirJ. LIEGE HULETT. J.P.. Speaker ot Legislative Assembly.
The Hon. GEO. PAYNE. Colonial Treasurer.
The Hon. F. R. MOOR. Secretary for Native Affairs.
259
qualified elector may become a member ol tlu- Legislative Assembly. Electors are men over twenty-one years o'. age, who ])ossess jiroperty to the value of £50, or who rent property of not less than /lo per annum. Lodgers who have resided for three years in the Colony, and have incomes of not less than £96 per year, are also qualified electors.
Every Legislative Assembly exists for four years. All Bills dealing with tliL- revenue or expenditure of the Colony must originate in the Legislative Assembly. The Ujipar House may accept or reject any Financial Bill jiassed by the Legislative .\ssembly, but may not alter it. A sum not exceeding £21,700 is payable yearly to the lmj)erial Govern- ment by the Colony ; £10,000 of this amount is set apart for the promotion of the welfare and education of the natives ; the rest is devoted to the payment of official salaries and pensions. The Governor names such offices as he thinks fit, not being more than six in number, to be " Political offices." The Governor further appoints Ministers to hold these offices during His Majesty's pleasure, or until the Ministry ceases to command a majority of supporters in the Parliament. Every Minister must be a member of the Legislative Council, or of the Legislative Assembly, but not more than two Ministers maj" be members of the Legislative Council. A Minister may sit and speak in both houses, but he maj' vote only in the House of which he is a member. In Natal there are now six officers forming the Cabinet, as follows : first. Premier and Minister of Lands and Works ; second. Secretary for Native Affairs ; third. Colonial Secretary and Minister of Education ; fourth, Colonial Treasurer : fifth. Minister of Agriculture; and sixth. Minister of Justice.
The Hon. Sir William Arbuckle is President of the Legislative Council.
The Hon. Sir Walter Francis Hely-Hutchinson, K.C.M.G., assumed the office of Governor in 1893, and was the first rejiresentative of Her late Majesty appointed to Natal under the form of Responsible Government. He was succeeded by Sir Henry Edward McCailum, R.E., A.D.C., K.C.M.G., in 1901.
The following is a complete list of the '^Governors of Natal sine? its establishment as a Colony :
Martin West .. .. Lieutenant-Governor 1845
Benjamin C. C. Fine ..... .. „ 1850
John Scott ...... .. , 1856
J. Maclean ... ., .. 1864
Robert \V. Keate ... 1867
Anthony Mus^rave .. ... 1872
Sir Benjamin C. C. I'ine .. ,, 1873
Sir Henry E. Bulwer .. Governor 1875
Sir Garnet J. Wolseley .. 1880
Sir George Pomeroy Colley ... .. 1880
Sir Henry E. Bulwer .. . . . 1882
Sir .Arthur E. Havelock 1886
Sir Charles B. H. .Mitchell 1889
The Hon. Sir Walter F. Hely-Hutchinson .. .. .. .. (893
Sir Henry Edward McCailum, K.E., .VD.C, K.C.M.G .. 1901
Roman-Dutch Law is the recognised code for the Europeans of the Country, while English precedents are often quoted in the Courts. The rights and duties of natives are, for the most part, regulated by native law, which has been carefully codified, it being necessary, for the present, that they should remain, in many respects, upon a different footing to the other sections of the community. Indian emigrants are introduced into Natal
260
LAW AND COURTS
-V
Russell & Sons
SIR WALTER PEACE, K.C.M.G., AGENT-GENERAL FOR NATAL
261
under special laws and regulations for their i>ro- tection, and for securing the proper carrying out of the indentures exe- cuted in India.
The laws are admini- stered b\' three Judges, who visit in turn each circuit of the Colony, and sit as a supreme Court at stated inter- vals. ThelnferiorCourts are presided over 1)\- Magistrates. There is also a Native High Court, consisting o( three Judges, for the administration of justice amongst natives.
EDUC.4TIC^N
|
■ |
|
|
^^^^^H |
< ^^^^^^^^^^^^^t |
|
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H ^^^^^^H ^^^^^^^* ,.<^" |
|
|
^^J |
The subject of Educa- tion has received con- stant and unremitting care and attention from Government. I'ntil the 1st January, 1878. this important department was under the immediate control of the Governor in Council, whose chief executive ofificer was the Superintendent of Education. From that date a Council of Educa- tion was appointed, and continued in office for sixteen and a half years. By the pro- mulgation of Law 5 (1804), the Council was abolished, and the functions ot the dejiartment vested in a Minister of Education.
When the Council was appointed, the annual attendance of children at all Government and aided schools was 2,501, and the annual expenditure about £8,800. In 1901 the num- ber of European children regularly attending schools was 12,509, of which 6,174 were boys and 6,335 girls. At native schools, the attendance was 11,071, and Indian, 3,533, while the expenditure was £51,429 for Europeans, £6,593 for natives, and £2,719 lor Indians, making a total of £60,741.
.\t i)resent the chief executive office is held by a Superintendent of Education, assisted by five inspectors and four clerks.
SIK lll-.NKV HAI.K, K.C., CHlll- USlltK Ol- NAIAL
262
A scheme for aiding farm-house schools was estabHshed in 1887. In the following year there was only one examination centre. In 1889 there were thirteen centres with a total of 133 pupils, and in igoi there were 189 schools and 672 pupils.
A sum of £4 for the upper standards, and iz fo' the lower is paid to parents on behalf of every child who resides at least five miles from a Government or aided school and is found on examination to have been properly taught during the preceding twelve months. Examination centres are formed at any place where no fewer than ten children can be got together. The Superintendent of Education reports that the system is working well.
In the Colony there are 'altogether 2S1 European schools, and 196 for natives. The former comprise 33 Government schools, 59 fixed aided schools, and 189 farm-house schools. The grants to the native schools during the year 1901 amounted to £6,353. The natives themselves spent on the schools a further sum of £1,176.
As shown elsew'here throughout this volume, there are numerous high-class educational institutions, such as the colleges at Maritzburg, Balgowan. Weston. Hilton, and elsewhere, while in the two main centres, Maritzburg and Durban, Young Ladies' Collegiate schools. Academies, Government High, Model, and Primary Schools and many other such establish- ments, most amply provide for the scholastic requirements of the Colony.
Railways pierce the Colony in all directions, and represent a total length of about 680 miles. Direct connections are afforded to all the other South African Colonies. TJie quickest and most picturesque route to the Rand, and other portions of the Transvaal, is via Natal. The Part devoted to the Review of the Railways from earliest times, will be found of especial interest. (See page 274).
British Garrisons are established at Pietermaritzburg, Ladysmith. Dundee, and New- castle, in Natal ; and Eshowe, in Zululand. In addition to these, the defence of the country is ably supple- mented by the NatalVolunteerandMountedPoliceForces. Natal's Volunteers have a stirring and interesting
RAILWAYS
GARRISONS, VOLUN- TEERS, MOUNTED POLICE
history. Thev were the first on record throughout the Empire to take part as regularly appointed troops against an enemy. On several occasions, and never more conspicuously than during the recent Boer War, they have gained distinction, and are markedly efficient in all particulars, alike as regards drill, marksmanship, and every soldierly requirement. Brigadier-General Sir John G. Dartnell, K.C.B., was for a con- siderable time the Commandant, and much of the success which has attended the career of the Force is to be attributed to his tact and skill.
.After twelve months' excellent service in the field, the \'olunteers were demobilized on the 9th October, 1900, but a composite Regiment of some 300 officers, non-commissioned officers, and men remained in the field, at first under the command of the late Lieutenant- Colonel R. W. Evans, and afterwards of Lieutenant-Colonel Bede Crompton. The Mounted Regiments and the Natal Field Artillery were again called upon for service on the i8th September, 1901, owing to a threatened invasion of the Colony by the Boers under Commandant-General Louis Botha. The threatened raid, however, proving unsuccessful, the Volunteers were again demobilized, on the i6th October, 1901.
In April, 1902, the Volunteer Composite Regiment, being still in the field, was consider- ably augmented, and a second regiment of similar character was raised, under the name of the Natal ilounted Infantry, the command being entrusted to Lieutenant-Colonel F. Addison, V.D.
263
The total strength of the Voluntt cr forces of the Colony on the 31st December, iQoi, was 1,759, made up as follows:— Staff, 18; Naval Volunteers, 135 : Mounted Rifles. 985 ; Field Artillery, 97 Infantry, 455 ; Medical Staff Corps, 14 ; Veterinary Corps, 8 ; Reserve, 47.
The " Natal Volun- teer Reco:d " obtain- able at any book-store in Natal, is recom- mended to those who may be interested in the Volunteer Forces, and the splendid part played by them, e?- pecially during the recent war.
Since the establish- ment of Responsible Government, a recon- struction of the Moun- ted Police System has been brought about throughout the Colony by the consolidation of the various forces. Ovtr one hundred sta- tions have been estab- lished in different parts of the country, and the brig.\dier-genf.ral sir juhn o. dakt.nki.i., k.c.b. Kit'rTm"
Natal Police Force, as it now stands, has a strength of 630 Eurojiean Officers and men and 1,000 Natives. In addition, but exclusive of these numbers, there are eliticient forces of Railway Police and Water Police at the Point : the various Gaols throughout the Colony are also under control of the Chief Commissioner of Police. The Force is an efficient protection against risings in the Colony, and at the same time acts beneficially and thoroughly in the suppression of crime.
An excellent system of Municipal Government is in vogue in the principal towns, by
which Councils, elected by the Burgesses, control all
matters of local concern.
The Postal System extends to every town, village, and settlement in the Colony. Telegraph wires connect all the centres of the Colony
MUNICIPAL SYSTE.V\
264
POSTAL AND
TELEGRAPH
SYSTEMS
with each other, and with the rest of South Africa. The total length of line and wire in the Colon}' at the end of igoi was 1. 512 and 3,794 miles respectively. Four Submarine Cables afford the means of communication with the outside world — two from Cape Town via West Coast, and two from Durban, one via
the East Coast and one via Mauritius and Cocos Islands to Australia. The Inland Letter Rate in Natal, and between Natal and the Cape Colonv, Transvaal
and Orange River Colony, is id. for every half ounce, or fraction thereof.
The Telegraph Rate is one penny per word, with a minimum of one shilling ; cypher
or code telegrams are charged 50 per cent, above ordinary rates. Cablegrams to Europe
via East or West Coast Routes are charged for at 3s. per word, and to Australasia from
2S. 3d. to 3s. 8d. per word.
Natal is well supplied with newspapers. Durban and Pietermaritzburg each issue dailies, both morning and afternoon, the " Natal Mercury " and the
PRESS
" Natal Advertiser " in the and the "Times of Natal' several of the daily papers
former town, and the " Natal Witness " ' in the City. In addition weekly mail editions of several of the daily papers are printed for Colonial and Home cir- culation. The Natal Press is kept in touch, by telegraph and cable, with all incidents of local, home, and foreign importance or interest, both Reuter's and Special News Agencies being employed. Independently of the foregoing, Durban produces one weekly journal, " The Prince," and Pietermaritzburg a Dutch bi-weekly, the " Natal Afrikaner." The "Dundee and District Advertiser" and the "Newcastle Advertiser" are published weekly in the towns from which they take their respective names.
Hi A
PLANTATIONS
These are exceedingly good, and. whilst, .the "class" distinctions are not so extreme as in the Mother! | country, yet there is a due and^ proper regard for those traditions which have produced the tone and culture that are the features of English Society to-day. It might
SOCIAL CONDITIONS
also be added that the utmost religious liberty prevails, and adherents of all denominations will have no difficulty in finding congenial church or chapel society throughout the colony.
265
Statistics in connection with the revenue and ex|)endilure of Natal, from tlie years lS5() to if)02, form an interesting object lesion on the progre-;s of
FINANCE a new land. In reading these figures, it must always be remembered
tliat. from the first-named year till 1870, the Colony was more or less
hamjiered by jieculiar circumstances. From 1870 till about 1886, the discovery of gold and diamonds in the nciglibouring States im]5arted a fillip to the industries of the people. From 1S86 to the present time, a new epoch may be raid to have commenced, as the following list will show- —
|
REVliNUE |
AND EXPENDITURE from 1859 to JUNE 30, 1902. |
||
|
REVENUE |
i s- d. |
EXPENDITURE. £ S. (i. |
|
|
1859 |
50.082 19 4 |
1859 |
47. '28 9 2 |
|
i860 |
77,480 8 2 |
i860 |
73.002 8 10 |
|
IS61 |
107,465 6 9 |
1861 |
113.460 3 9 |
|
I S62 . . |
98,086 6 3 |
1862 |
83.886 2 6 |
|
1863 .. |
119,042 5 0 |
1863 |
94.033 16 10 |
|
1864 |
151.049 9 10 |
1864 |
137.979 >6 " |
|
i,S6; |
118.146 i; 4 |
1865 |
160.153 8 10 |
|
1 866 |
94.884 13 9 |
1866 |
1 26.067 1 8 7 |
|
1867 |
96,780 18 u |
1867 |
118.328 13 3 |
|
1868 |
95,762 I 1 1 |
1868 |
117.255 u 5 |
|
1869 |
1 1 1. 231 19 7 |
1869 |
108,406 10 4 |
|
1870 .. |
126,293 3 0 |
1870 |
117 ,009 1 6 8 |
|
1871 |
125,628 6 6 |
1871 |
118,657 1 3 |
|
1872 |
180.498 12 7 |
1872 |
132.978 3 5 |
|
1873 |
207,392 I 9 |
■873 |
'73.277 15 " |
|
■874 |
247,259 5 10 |
1874 |
306,364 14 0 |
|
1875 |
2«jo,27i 8 2 |
1875 |
307.02; 14 2 |
|
1876 |
265.551 15 4 |
1876 |
261.933 '7 4 |
|
1877 |
272.473 12 10 |
1877 |
283.823 12 8 |
|
1878 |
369.383 >6 10 |
187S |
387.067 13 I |
|
187Q |
473.478 I 6 |
1879 |
49 1 .909 1 9 6 |
|
1880 |
582.715 I 0 |
1 8, So |
477.100 15 5 |
|
1881 |
439.583 2 ■ |
1881 |
394.854 6 1 |
|
1882 |
''57.737 13 9 |
1882 |
659.030 19 3 |
|
18S3 |
620.496 10 8 |
1883 |
697.264 10 3 |
|
1884 |
610.936 18 9 |
1884 |
707.527 18 3 |
|
1885 |
'162,915 0 4 |
1885 |
774.158 19 0 |
|
1886 |
'«o.i77 17 0 |
1886 |
717.414 12 10 |
|
1887 . . |
924.840 13 4 |
1887 |
689,572 17 0 |
|
1888 .. |
990.614 0 0 |
1888 |
781.471 13 0 |
|
I 8S9-90 |
1.507.788 9 6 |
i889-9< |
) 1.444.963 18 3 |
|
1890-91 |
1. 318. 769 I 0 |
1890-9 |
'.393.895 '3 2 |
|
1891-92 |
1.392.455 5 5 |
1891-9; |
> 1.280.964 15 8 |
|
1892-93 |
1 .069.678 6 2 |
1892-9 |
1,099.858 7 7 |
|
1893-94 |
1.OII.I16 18 5 |
1893-94 |
1.082.373 1 8 |
|
1894-95 |
1.169.780 15 I |
"894-9. |
1.148,093 14 4 |
|
1895-96 |
1.457.338 2 9 |
i895-9( |
) 1.282.484 5 8 |
|
1 896-97 |
2.213.074 I 5 |
I S96-9; |
1.624.998 5 4 |
|
1 897-98 |
1.964,314 18 II |
■897-9! |
i 1. 812. 318 3 8 |
|
1898-99 |
2.0S1.349 4 10 |
1898-9C |
) 2. 147.601 16 I |
|
1 899-1900 |
1. 886.7 10 2 I |
1899-1900 1.990.522 7 0 1 |
|
|
1900-01 |
2,970.741 16 11 |
1900-0 |
2.480.932 6 3 |
|
iqoi-02 |
3.4'»g.820 0 0 |
iqoi-02 |
3.007.fioo 0 n |
The existing Public debt of Natal is £12,519,143, against which there was, at the end of the financial year (30th June, 19)2), an accumulated sinking fund of ^^392, 947. By far the greater part of the first-named sum has been expended on Public Works of a re- productive and permanent nature.
Under the heading of Railways, as is shown in the section dealing with that subject, there are 679 miles of line completed within the Colony.
The next public work of great importance in the Colony is that of Harbour improvements.
266
These have formed the theme for much controversy, but the fact remains that a comparison of I he condition of the Harbour as it is to-day. with its facilities ten years ago, will reveal a vast advance. The Colony is now provided with a service of tugs, dredgers, wharfage, and other accommodation of a most efficient description.
Of Roads, Bridges, and Public Buildings, it can be said with truth that the Colony is in no respect behind hand. Considering the size of the country and its population, it is something to be able to state that of roads, over 4,600 miles are open and kept in repair. This, in a hilly and mountainous land, is a good record.
Nearly all the important rivers are well and strongly bridged, both for road and rail traffic.
Under the heading of Public Buildings, there has been a considerable amount of e.xpen- (.iiture, m order to provide suitable accommodation for magistrates, post and telegraph offices, and other necessary Government buildings.
Crown lands amounting to about 1,500,000 acres in Natal, and 6,000,000 in Zululand,
valued at los. per acre, still remain unsold. This valuation may, however, be under the mark, as the lands sold recently have realised an average price of 12s. 6d. per acre. Loca- tion and Mission Reserve Lands representing large areas of the Colony, alienated from the Government, are vested in trusts for the natives.
In addition to the above, many other important assets, either directly productive or indirectly bearing on the revenue, might be mentioned, but enough has been outlined to indicate the solid position of the Colony from a financial point of view.
The Imports for 1902 were £13,317,445. of which £3,148,014 were for adjacent States. The Exports including goods to the value of £5.783,578, sent
NATIVE AND CROWN
LANDS
COMMERCE Overland, amounted to £9,156,368, Colonial products accounting
for £1,476,600.
The re-opening of trade with the Transvaal was shown by the fact that goods valued at £5,361,064, were sent to that Colony during the j'ear 1902. During the year 1898, the last complete year under the Boer Government in which trade was uninterrupted, the exports of the Colony to the South-African Republic reached the sum of £1,122,783.
|
I |
ABLE |
OF |
SHIPPING AND TRADE |
OF THE |
COLONY. |
|||
|
From iS8^ |
TO 30TH JrxE |
iqoi. |
||||||
|
Shipping |
in Tons. |
|||||||
|
Vrt„..^ |
Value of Imports. |
Customs Revenue. |
Value of Exports. |
|||||
|
' Inwards. |
Outwards. 1 |
|||||||
|
1883 . |
232.097 |
231,892 |
±1.751.107 |
/22i,044 |
^731.809 |
|||
|
1884 . |
210. 181 |
212,604 |
1.675,850 |
161,476 |
831.747 |
|||
|
18S5 . |
195,260 |
193.143 |
1.518.557 |
179.907 |
957.918 |
|||
|
1886 . |
196,651 |
196,183 |
1.331.115 |
140,401 |
960,290 |
|||
|
1887 . |
235.485 |
231.306 |
2,263,920 |
231. 411 |
1,056,959 |
|||
|
1888 . |
364. S20 |
362,237 |
2,890,468 |
290,084 |
1,417.871 |
|||
|
1889 . |
439.910 |
431.216 |
4,527.015 |
369.461 |
1,656,318 |
|||
|
1890-91 |
498,310 |
494.142 |
3,620,809 |
273,028 |
1,218,413 |
|||
|
1891-92 |
5f\5.424 |
563.176 |
3,690,734 |
300,103 |
1.377.085 |
|||
|
7S92-93 |
599.-=/"2 |
593.430 |
2,456,562 |
215.631 |
1.370,335 |
|||
|
1893-94 |
647,409 |
654,648 |
2,171.322 |
190.542 |
1,184,650 |
|||
|
1S94-95 |
732.997 |
730,925 |
3,370,022 |
189,930 |
1,216,430 |
|||
|
1895-96 |
896,391 |
892,998 |
3.550.125 |
265.370 |
1. 551. 358 |
|||
|
1896-97 |
1,224,841 |
1,209,583 |
6,418,266 |
413.390 |
1,794.249 |
|||
|
1897-98 |
1,216,814 |
1,226,284 |
5.271.757 |
383.813 |
1,672,368 |
|||
|
1898-99 |
1.339,355 |
1.341,122 |
5.590.943 |
436,917 |
3,264,389 |
|||
|
1899-00 |
1,414,586 |
1,388,090 |
5.3 17.73 1 |
560,415 |
1.333.078 |
|||
|
1900-01 |
1,561,963 |
1,52s, ;;93 |
7,187,887 |
797.4" |
*2, 281,455 |
|||
|
* Including /q6i,036 |
Overberg. |
267
INDUSTRIES.
MANUFACTURES,
MINES. &c.
Natal, considering her area and population, stands fairly well in these respects. At the time of writing there were thirty-six sugar mills, ten dis- tilleries, forty-six grist mills, thirty-one saw mills, thirty-five aerated water factories, three rectifiers and compounders, two methylated-spirit makers, forty-two wagon-making establish- ments, ten wood-turning machines, sixty-nine brick and tile works, one brewery, one arrowroot-mill, three tanneries, eighteen confectionery and preserve factories, eighteen wattle bark-cutting machines, fourteen tea and coffee mills, ten bone-crushing machines, one woollen factory, twenty-seven iron works, seventeen coal-mines, three lime works, twentv][quarries. two wool-washing mills, fourteen sausage factories, one ham and bacon-curing factory (not now working), fifteen ice and refrigerating establishments, eleven stone-cutting, polishing, and monumental works, six ship and boat building establishments, four sail and tent-making establishments
Sl'GAR CANE FIKLUS
eighteen furniture and bedding factories, nineteen printing and bookbinding establishments, three lithographing and die-sinking establishments, 'nineteen saddlery and harness-making establishments, ten electric light works, eleven cycle works, one billiard- table factory, three dye-works, one explosives factory, three match factories, two soap and candle and one Venetian-blind works, five establishments for manufacturing jewellery, one fibre factory, and thirty-two small boats and seven steam-trawkrs engaged in the fishing industry. The foregoing figures include Zululand.
The total amount of land under tillage in the Colony has been calculated, as nearly as can be ascertained, to be 70S. 365 acres. This, of course, is
PRODUCTIONS
exclusive of land used for grazing and wool-producing pur-
poses. Of this total area, the whites cultivate, in a close
and systematic manner, 197,359 acres, while the natives are roughly estimated to till, in a desultory and spasmodic fashion, about 469.494 acres, the most of which is under
j6S
mealies and kafir corn, 216,526 acres being devoted to the former, and I'j'j.yjz to the latter crop. Some 41,512 acres are cultivated by Indians.
The total production of mealies for the Colony in 1901 was 1,351,045 muids, and of kafir corn 702,153 muids.
Sugar cane ranks ne.xt as a leading crop^ 28.440 acres being appro.ximately the amount under it, of which 26,935 acres are cultivated by Europeans, 215 acres by natives, and 1,290 by Indians. The cane grown by natives is not crushed for sugar. The yield of sugar per acre (Europeans) averages 1.32 ton, and Indians 0.7 ton. The price, of course, fluctuates, but {t.^ per ton may be taken as a fair average.
Tea follows, with an acreage of 4,027 by Europeans, and 80 by Indians. The return for the year 1901 wa; 1,710,150 lbs. by Europeans, and 10,000 by Indians, valued at 9d. per lb.
A very large area of land has recenth' been planted with wattle trees, and in 1901 the yield of bark (principally exported) was 14,132 tons, valued at about £70,000. Follow- ing these, tobacco, cereals, vegetables and other minor products are in evidence.
Owing to the Boer War, the export of wool was very low, only amounting to 2,522.341 lbs., as compared with 24,292,777 lbs. in 1898.
With regard to coal, the total output during 1901 was 569,200 tons, valued at the pit-mouth at £549,439. Of this, 247,166 tons were bunkered, 57,622 tons exported (including 1,440 tons to the Orange River Colony and 425 to the Transvaal), and 146,234 tons were consumed by the Natal Government Railways, leaving 118,178 tons for local use. In 1902 the total output was 592,752 tons.
Hides, skins, and Angora hair constitute fluctuating but yet important items. Sub-tropical fruits are extensively cultivated near the coast. Bananas appear to be the staple product, and it is estimated that there are from 1,200 to 1,500 acres under them. The Rand affords a large market, and a good over sea export trade is done. A very considerable traffic in pineapples is also carried on. The Malvern district is the chief cultivating centre in the Colony for these fruits. Naartjes and oranges flourish luxuriantly in many parts of the country, but the culture of other citrus fruits, such as lemons, shaddocks, and limes, has not been systematically undertaken.
Many other productions might be mentioned, but enough has been set down to indicate something of the scope and nature of the Colony's capabilities. To skilled handicraftsmen and workers, large possibilities are offered in fibre and silk-culture alone. Owing to the altitudinal and climatic conditions of Natal, there are scores of other items of use and luxury, which might, and doubtless will, be developed with advantage in the coming years.
The subject of Colonial productions alone would be sufficient to warrant the compilation ot a volume to itself. In dealing with it, it is necessary
GENERAL REMARKS
AS TO COLONIAL
PRODUCTIONS
to bear in mind that the Colony stands but on the threshold of her storehouse. The superficial thinker and writer is too apt to judge of the possibilities of the country's future by its past. This is so manifestly wrong as to require but little comment. Nevertheless, before approaching a theme which is as in- teresting as vital, it is necessary to point out the heavj- disabilities arising from the inhabitation by savages of frontier States, and the great disruptions of war, which have had either to be removed or lived down before the resources of the land could be grasped and utilised commercially. These have stagnated in a great measure
269
the efforts of those by whose toil market and otlu-r centres might have been created. In years past, for purposes of mutual protection, the bulk of tlic farmers clustered round the two main towns, while wide stretches of fertile outlying land lay fallow. With the limited local consumiUion and extensive importing facilities, manufactories of raw local material were heavily handicapped. The few who had sufficient enterprise were, for the most part, not only inexperienced, but devoid of capital The result was what might have been expected. One by one, industries were taken up and abandoned from no fault of the country, the productions, or the people. Coffee, arrowroot, eucalyptus oil, tanning, and many other industries were for a time shelved, to be recommenced later on under more favourable auspices. To-day some of these abandoned industries
BANANA AVENUE "• '* • '-""''
are in full swing, but with what a difference ! Skilled labour, efficient machinery, increased purchasing power, a peacealily settled country, and a wider field of operations, combined with ra])id means of communication provided by the Railway system, place success within the grasp of those who have sufficient energy to attain it.
In connection with stock, it is somewhat difficult to give more than an approximate number. According to the Blue-books, the Europeans and .Afrikanders
STOCK of Natal own, of horned cattle, 214,777 ; Angora goats, 58,654 ; ordinary
goats, 13,178 ; sheep, 490,098, permanently located in the coontry ;
horses, 27,968 ; pigs, 16,564 ; mules, 1,638. The natives of Natal are estimated to own of hormd cattle, 238,577 ; goats, 348,372; horses, 24,835 ; pigs, 40,996 ; sheep, 99,210.
270
Being an agricultural and pastoral race, whose principal articles of diet are maize, kafir corn, milk and beef, they have a considerable annual production to cover local consumption.
The total figures for the Colony (Europeans, Natives, and Indians) are : Cattle, 456.903 ; donkej-s, 1,496 ; goats, 432,936 ; horses, 53,702 ; mules, 1,683 ; ostriches, 1,071 ; pigs, 59.047 ; sheep, 589,572.
In 1896 the figures for horned cattle reached 738,732 but rinderpest, during 1897, reduced the total to 338,520, which includes the province of Zululand, anne.xed to Natal on the 30th of December, 1897. In 1898 and 1S99, the figures were respectively 278,558 and 281,594.
The interests of agriculture are well represented in the Legislative Assembly, and a
permanent head of the Agricultural Department has
DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
recently been appointed, under the title of Director of Agriculture. This Official (Mr. A. N. Pearson) has had considerable experience in all branches of agricultural development, and it is hoped that, under his guidance, the Colony will advance, as far as agriculture is concerned, at a much quicker pace than has been the case in the past.
Steps are being taken for the establishment of Government Experimental Farms, in the neighbourhood of Maritzburg and on the Coast ; and a scheme of afforestation is also under consideration. A Pomologist, too, will shortly be appointed for the purpose of assisting in the development of the fruit industry, with a view 10 the creation of an export trade. Assistance is also rendered to fruit growers desirous of fumigating their trees, and for this purpose fumigating apparatus is kept in stock by the Government.
The Dairy Industry is in charge of an expert, who has but lately completed a tour through America and Denmark, as well as Great Britain, with a view to making himself acquainted with the latest details of working dairies and factories in those portions of the world.
The Government Entomologist has been able to render great assistance to the farmers and fruit growers of the Colon}-, in checking and coping with the pest> incidental to agriculture, as well as in keeping down the locust plague, concerning which, no doubt, united action will be taken before long by all the South African Colonies and States.
Analyses of soils and experiments with manures are undertaken by the Department.
Irrigation works are being carried out, both by the Natal Native Trust, and by the Department, that undertaken by the latter being in the neighbourhood of Weenen, where some 20,000 acres are being rendered capable of irrigation.
Communication with the agricultural community, not only of Natal, but of other Colonies and countries, is kepit up by the " Agricultural Journal," a fortnightly publication run under the auspices of the Department.
Seeds are obtained by the Agricultural Department for trial from all portions of the world, and distributed free to farmers ; and, during the last season or two, a local rust- resisting variety of oats has been successfully distributed all over the Colony.
Experiments connected with the cause and cure of Disease in Stock of all kinds, and investigation work generally, are being undertaken at the Laboratory, AUerton, near Pietermaritzburg, by the Government Bacteriologist and Director of the Veterinary Department. The principal attention of the Government Bacteriologist is at present being given to Rinderpest, Horse-sickness, Blue-tongue m sheep, and Lung si :kne5S in- vestigation.
271
For several years, Trout Ova have been introduced from tlic United Kingdom, and from the Cape, for placing in the rivers of the Colony, and th.' imiwrtation ha-; b.^en sufficiently successful to justify its continuation.
Coal Mining is an important and growing industry. As already stated the output of coal during the year 1901 was 569,200 tons, of the
DEP.ARTMBNT OF MINES
ajiproximate value of £549,439. No fewer than 3,750 persons were employed in the producing collieries, the total being made up of 193 Europeans, 1.245 Indians, and 2,312 Natives.
Several new collieries are in course of development, and th? e.xisting collieries are equijijied in such a wa\' that a large increase in the outjiut may shortly be ex])octed.
All the collieries are situated in Kli]i River County, but an extensive coalfield, on the Zululand Coast, is awaiting the Railway, which is now hcinj,' rajiidly extended to it.
Gold mining and i)roipecting have gone on for many years in the Colony, but, though the metal is widel\- distril)uted. both in banket and <]uartz reef formation, no permanent gold-mining industry has yet been established. M\ic h prospecting is still going on, and one small mine is being worked.
During igoi. Syndicates were formed for the purjwse of dredging rivers for gold, but, up to the jiresent, there has not been mucii time for dredging machinery to be erected.
Development of coj)per. lead, and mica deposits is being carried on in Zululand.
The terms of the Mining Law (the Natal Mines Act of 1889) are very liberal, the charges for claims during the prospecting stage, being, approximately, is. 3d. per acre per annum, in the case of gold, cojiper, lead, mica, and other similar minerals ; and 3d. per acre in the case of coal, stratified ironstone, limestone, slate, and soai«tone. when a very slight labour condition is observed. If the labour condition hi abrogated, the charges are 4s. 6d. and lod. per ac^e respectively. In the mining stage, i.e., when the mines are producing, the charges are 14s. and 4s. iid. per acre with a Royalty, in addition, of I J per cent, on the value of the mineral at the mine.
The Mines Department consists of a Commissioner of Mines (Mr. C. J. Gray), and three District Officers, who are both Deputy Commissioners and Inspectors of Mines ; six Drill Superintendents ; and the necessary staff of clerks. The Department, in addition to the collection of revenue from claims, licences, and so on, administers the Mining Law and carries on drilling operations for minerals and water. Most of the drilling work is done at practically cost price for private person; or syndicate;. The plant at present comprises two steam diamond-drills, three hand diamond-drills, and two chisel-drills. An increased number is contemplated.
ZULULAND. For general information regarding Zululand, see pages 170 and 172.
272
USKFUL IXFOKMATIOX FOR EMIGRANTS.
AGENT GENERAL IN LONDON.
Sir Walter Peace, K.C.M.G., a colonist of many years standing, is the Agent-General for .Matal. His office is at 26, Victoria Street, Westminster, London. Tliose who con- template settling in the Colony and desire any information or adv-ice, or general emigration particulars, would do well to communicate with him.
Ocean Lines of Steamers.
The] steamship services with Natal, via the West Coast of Africa, are frequent and quick.
The Union Castle Line runs a weekly service, the fares ranging from 12 to 20 guineas third class ; 26 to ^^ guineas second ; and 34 to 51 guineas first ciass, according to description of boit and quality of accommodation.
The " Natal " (King and Sons) and " Aberdeen " {Rennie and Sons) Lines of direct Steamers have fortnightly sailings, the fares being 33 guineas first, and 20 guineas second class.
The German East African Line of Steamers run via the East and the West Coast. The passage rate; by the West Coast route are from £12 los. third,: ^26 5s. second ; and £38 5s. first class. An addition of £4 to £5 is made by the East Coast route.
There are also constant sailings either direct, or via Cape Town, to and from India, Australasia, America, and other parts of the Globe.
Customs, Luggage, Conveyances, Hotel Accommodation, &c. ■(Durban. Port Natal.)
Personal luggage is admitted free. Other articles are dutiable according to tarifl.
Passengers should have each package legibly addressed in order to facilitate the passing of the same by Customs' Officers.
Those wishing to forward their luggage, &c.. by rail, should make application to the Station Master or a representative, who will be in attendance on arrival of the vessel, or tender, at the wharf.
Trollies to take luggage from the Point to the Town of Durban are provided by a number of firms.
Trams run at frequent intervals between the Point and Durban, and a train leaves Point at 5 p.m. daily, except Siturdavs and Sundavs.
A plentiful supply of cabs and jinrickshas will also be found at the Point.
The plan of Durban at page 17 gives a list of some of the principal hotels in the Town. There are also a number of other good Hotels and Boarding-houses. The daily tariff at the former varies from Ss. 6d. to 12s. per day, and 'the rate at the latter may be put down at between £6 and £S per month. At the best class of hotels and boarding establishments the cost of living is of course somewhat higher.
273 T
THE RAILWAYS OF NATAL.
PAST, PRESENT. AND FUTURE.
IN the year eighteen hundred and si.xty. there was l)orn in Natal an Infant Railway. This was the two mile line stretching from the Point to the town of Durban, and the first of its kind to sec light in Africa. The " Garden Colony " has thus the honour of pioneering in this vast and alluring continent the most colossal vehicle of commerce, and the most potent of civilizing powers. The
THE INFANT early career of this child-line was perple.xed with many triiiula- LINE tions ; it not infrequently haj)pened that the two small engines
which com])osed its locomotive strength were indisposed together, and upon these distressing occasions the trains had to be pushed along by the natives. Nor were the staff unacquainted with its troubles — often they would receive their wages in groceries and other necessaries of life by orders on indebted tradesmen ; often they would be obliged to wait the return of the Manager from certain debt collecting e.\- peditions, and the consequent replenishment of the coffers. Notwithstanding all its trials, however, the little line grew in length, strength, and favour, and by 1874 six miles were in existence, an additional four miles having been laid along the North Coast from Durban to Umgeni.
So materially did the Railway prodigy develop the trade of the Colony, increase in popularity, and prosper to its promoters' satisfaction, that whereas the revenue for the year i86c) was £7.450, expenditure £5.2Qt), profit £2.160 ; in the corresponding period of 1874, the revenue had reached £21,103, the expenditure £ii,goi, giving the respectable profit of £9,202 on the year's working, while during the same six years the liabilities were reduced from £12.605 to £2,300. Then the Government rose to the command of the enterprise.
On New Year's Day, 1876, Sir Henry Bulwer, at that time Lieut. -Governor of the Colony, turned the first sod of the Government system of Railways. A few years later the child-line was purchased by the Govern- ment for the sum of £40,000. The change in ownership led rapidly to an improvement in its condition and character. Its width was reduced from 4 feet 8J inches, to 3 feet 6 inches (the British Colonial gauge), it was furnished with new stock, and was run on a more orthodox and business-like basis.
This is the brief history of the infant; the chronicles of the adult are naturally more extensive.
The construction of the Government lines was so vigorously pursued, that by 1881, the average open mileage stood at ()8i and the receipts at £173,108.
By i8go, 285 miles were in working, yielding a revenue of £606,713, and by the end of 1000, the length had been increased to 567 miles, producing an unprecedented return of £1,242,281. This is adequate indication of the long strides taken by the Railway to meet the constant and increasing demands upon its resources, but the following abstract of they early working, and the table showing the growth and present proportions of the line, digestively arranged, are deserving of examination.
274
GOVERNMENT
SYSTEM
PRINCIPAL OFFICERS, \ATAL GOVERNMENT RAILWAYS.
>^
%
W. H. COBLEV (Supt. Kngineer Construction.)
G. W. RE ID (late Locomotive Supt.)
R. W. HARWIN (Chief Accountant.)
JOHN W. SHORES. C.M.G. (Enjiineer in Chief.)
SIR DAVID HL'XTER. K. C.M.G. (General Manager.)
JAMES M. HUNTER '
(Assistant General Manager.)
L. BRERETON (Engineer for Maintenance.)
D. B. DOWNIE (Assistant Tratfic Manager.)
E. B. KIRKMAN (Stores Supi )
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From the earliest days of the Rand u|) to the year 1892, the Natal Railways conveye
the lion's share of the Transvaal trade, which was transhipped
DIRECT LINE TO THE TRANSVAAL
at the terminus to the slow and cumbrous ox-wagon. But in that year the Cape Colony obtained direct rail cntr\' into Johannesburg. The result is obvious. Practically the whole of this valuable traffic was diverted, resulting in a fall of 20 per cent, in the Natal Rail- way receipts. Immediate action was demanded to avert the continuance of this seious loss. To this end the Government exerted its influence to secure the extension of the line from the Natal border to Johannesburg. The then Colonial Secretary (the Hon. Francis Seymour Haden. CM. G.), and the General Manager of Railways (then the Hon. David Hunter), were appointed by the Governor as delegates to the Government of the South .African Republic. The mission resulted in the survey of the line by the Natal Railwa\- Engineers, on behalf of the I^epublican Government. In 1893, the surveys were completed and presented, consent was given to the execution of the scheme, and by the end of 1895. ^ I'ne from the border to Johannesburg, 176 miles in length, was opened and bearing again the weighty- sustenance of the Rand. In 1806 all previous receipts were doubled.
The pre-eminent advantages of the Natal route to the Transvaal are well known. Its superior gfograi)liical position, which places Johannesburg within 485 miles of the Port, enables the journey to be accomplished with the greatest ease, safety and comfort, through beautiful scenery, in 24 hours, and Pretoria in 27 hours — the quickest time of any service. New express corridor, dining and sleeping trains, with coaches 60 feet long, have been built in the latest modern style, most sumiituously a]>pointed, and having every accom- modation. These trains are now running with marked success, containing as they do, two and four berth compartments, and saloons en suite for families, provided with lavatories, electric light, fans, bells, and accompanied by through conductors.
These subjects have been fully treated in their appropriate places en route through
the Colony, but it may be briefly stated here that the
SCENERY AND ATTRACTIONS
Natal System traverses constantly changing panoramas of much scenic beauty and grandeur. The attractions, too, newly amplified by Natal's world-famous battle-fields, are numerous and varied, interesting alike to the settler and to the tourist.
The large complement of rolling stock, upon which is bestowed the most skilful care
and attention, both in erection and in maintaining it in faultless running order, caters for the requirements of first, second, and third class traveUers, although the latter class is almost entirely monopolised b}' the coloured community.
COMFORT AND
SAFETY OF
PASSENGERS
On all passenger trains there are lavatory and toilet conveniences attached to the first and second class compartments, the saloons and carriages are handsomely upholstered and illuminated by electric light, the law of cleanliness is rigorously observed, and that of repose is comfortably met by convertible accommodation either for sitting or sleeping.
Spacious refreshment rooms are situated every thirty to forty miles, and the running times of trains are as nearly as possible arranged to allow passengers ample margin to take their meals at the customary hours. These rooms are under the personal management of the contractor, Mr. C. W. Tomkins. which is a guarantee of the excellence of the cuisine and all pabular pertainments. Everything, indeed, is done to render a journey over the Natal Government Railways one of safety and comfort.
278
Natal has done much during the last few years to improve and strengthen the condition,
e<iuipment, and controlling forces of efficiency and safety, of
IMPROVEMENTS
her railways, and although it does not come within the province of this work to detail these accomplishments, yet it can be acce])ted that they will enable her to manipulate with the utmost facility, security and despatch, the large traffic landed on her shores, and derived from internal sources.
We have hut to watch the heavily-laden trains speeding daily Ironi tiie Fort with
stores and provisions, machinery |] and all kinds of material,
INDUSTRIES AND for tne two new sister-colonies _ and ' their industiies DEVELOPMENTS and developments, to be assured ol; the reahzation of the pronouncement that " the termination of the War will be the signal for developments in South Africa] under happier land more stable conditions than have ever previously existed."
Mineral districts especiallv, which a few years ago were starving for want of capital, and others whose known wealth could neither be wooed nor won, will eventually be developed and other businesses and industries dependent and independent of the Mining world will spring up, providing employment for thousands of ready men.
Railw.-w Extension Wokks are now being prosecuted in all directions, and many others are in embrj'o, as the reader will readily perceive on referring to the general maj). The next few years should witness a marked increase in the railwav mileage, tapping good mineral, agricultural, and industrial districts, and generalh- opening up the resources of rich and extensive territories, not only in Natal, l>ut in those of her near neighbours.
The most ambitious of all the schemes is that Fof an Altern.'\tive Trunk Line THRorcH Nat.\l, in order to place the Transvaal within the quickest possible access of the Port. The capabilities of the existing railway are of course very great, but the increasing up-country and Hinterland trade, and the larger coal-mining operations are factors which have to be grappled with, and though there is no present fear of this traffic exceeding the carrying capacity of the present line, the benefits to be derived from an improved route, both commercially, industrially and financially, are undeniable.
The construction of an Overhead railway from the Point to Durban, in order to avoid the street level crossings — which are an evident source of danger where electric trams are in vogue — is another scheme which is highly favoured, and may be iin fait accompli before many years are past.
The extensions which have taken practical shape, or received the necessary sanction, and which, when completed, will operate most beneficially in the developing of new settlements and lands, and in more closely uniting and fostering the commercial interests in the Orange River Colony, Cape Colony, and Natal, are the branches from Harrismith to Bethlehem, Bloemfontein, and possibly Kimberley in the one direction, and the New Cape Connection — leaving the Natal trunk line at Pietermaritzburg and effecting a junction at Riverside on the Cape border — in the other : this latter will shorten the existing route considerably.
The extensions to Zululand and \'ryheid, which are now being pressed forward to a point of completion, will also open up new and valuable territories.
In addition to the foregoing. Surveys have been carried out, having for object the possible construction in the future of lines — to the Mid-Illovo and Upper Tugela districts, branching from the main Line at Manderston and Ennersdale respectively ;
280
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to the Impendhla, Ipolela. and Ixopo divisions radiating :rom the Xatal-Cape line ; and through Alfred County as a continuation of the South Coast Branch, while the surveys of the Trunk line to ascertain whether a second line can be run along, or near to, the route of the existing one, as an alternative scheme to the suggested in- dependent line, are engaging attention.
PRACTICAL WORKING.
JN these days of a-mile-a-minute travelling upon pancake-like tracks in other lands, the duration of the iourne^ 5. and the shortness of the trains on the Natal liner- x'A strike the visitor as singularly
strange until he be-
SOME DIFFICULTIES
comes acquainted with the extreme irreg- ularitv of the country. He will then appreciate the many physical difficulties which have to be sur- mounted. Natal is so mountainous in formation throughout its length and breadth that the serrated course of the railways is inevitable, and so trequent and e.xtreme are the risings, twistings, and faOings of the Main line between the Port and the Border, that it can be likened to a long and writhing switchback. Looking at the gradient profile — an excellent outline study of the Drakensberg indeed — it will not be difficult to comprehend that ever}^ person and every parcel carried between Durban and Charlestown has to ascend in the aggregate over 12,600 feet (equal to nearly two- and-a-half miles of a vertical elevation) — crossing altitudes in sections of two, three, four, and even five thousand feet above the sea, which when gained are often, lost again, and have to be recovered. The branches are all more or less similar, the Harrismith hne the more nearly approaching the Main line in its acute formation, e.xcept that it rises for thirty-six miles to \"an Reenen without a fall. In the vicinitv of this station the highest rail elevation in Natal is attained — 5,520 /frf above the sea. Taking the total length of the lines in Natal — over 670 miles of a single track ; a serious obstacle to quick working in itself — not a tenth of it is on the level. The ruling gradient and curvature between Durban and Lady- smith are exceptionally severe, viz., 1 in 30, and 300 feet radius respectively, and these are frequently tound in combination. The Main line north of Lady- smith possesses slightlv easier gradients of i in 50-60. It will therefore be apparent that such conditions
281
of working not only minimise the average spwed, involve the frequent alteration of loads, cause many stoppages, and necessitate numerous watering places to feed the tank engines which have to be employed to reduce the " dead weight," but raise up many other hindrances not commonly experienced in railwav working.
With all these regards it is a matter of no little surprise that the railways have been, and continue to be so profitably worked, especially when it is also considered that until a year or two ago the greatest weight that could be hauled by the heaviest locomotive up the steepest portions of the line, was but 137 tons gross or 80 tons net paying traffic. Before passing from this subject, however, mention should be made of the new " Reid " engine, complimentally named after its designer, the late Locomotive Engineer. This machine is possessed of 50 per cent, greater capacity all round than the largest engine previously in use.
The grades and curves are also being improved and additional crossing stations provided to concede all possible assistance in the more rapid transport of the largely increasing traffic.
i
tf-
I.ANG S NEK TUNNEL
of the
THE seat of th( R a i 1 w a 3' A d
mmistration is DuRB.AN, and as a natural consequence, the controlling staff and works, excepting alone the Engineering Department, are gathered there. It is hardly necessary to say that the Works, both architecturally and industrially, are imposing pillars of the town. Much might be written of their quick growth, and the increased activity within the present edifices, but the following brief description will probably convey a round impression of the general capacity and operations.
PRINCIP.AL BUILDINGS. WORKS, DEPART.WHNTS, &C.
282
The Exterior will shortly present a handsome treble-storeved, triangular structure,
with a frontage of 117 feet to Pine Street, and 127
DURBAN CENTRAL STATION BUILDINGS
feet to Railway Street. The main entrance is from the former, and the exit into the latter street. The upper floors are assigned to the principal depart- mental offices. Interior : The Booking Office faces the principal entrance, and the vestibule leads in a direct line to the main platforms, flanked bv the refreshment bar, dining, waiting, retiring and cloak rooms, lavatories, station-officials' offices, and book- stalls, all most conveniently arranged and equipped.
The Passenger Station proper is arched by a roof supported on brick side-walls 20
feet high, having a clear span of 105 feet, a length of
THE PASSENGER STATION
210 feet, and a centre height of 56 feet. There are two asphalted peninsula-like platforms, 350 feet long and 25 feet wide. Both platforms are provided with a line of rails one each side, and a fifth line, used for carriage storing purposes, runs in the centre. These lines terminate in dead ends with buffer protections, and are backed by one large centre screen, and two small side screens, which face the intending traveller as he approaches from the direction of the booking-hall, the middle one giving all necessary information with regard to the trains.
283
These workshops are situated on the right hand side of the line, opposite the goods
~~ depot, a little wav back from the
LOCOMOTIVE, CARRIAGE, & WAGON, '
AND ELECTRICAL DEPARTMENT
a little way main station. As ma\' be imagined, they cover a considerable area, and comprise every department necessary for the construction, repair, and renewal of the large engine-and-rolling stock employed in the working of the lines. If the visitor has time and inclination, an hour or two may be profitably sjient in a tour through the various workshops, accompanied by an inteUigent guide.
At the end of December, 1902, the whole stock of the Railway comprised 228 engines,
402 carriages, 3.052 wagons, and 219 other vehicles, while 30 engines, 48 carriages and 162 wagons were under order or construction.
The heaviest engine, the " Reid," weighs 69 tons and
can haul 205 tons gross up a i in 30 grade, and round curves of 300 feet radius. The
largest carriage is 60 feet long, weighs 30 tons, and can accommodate 22 through
passengers. The largest wagon is 36 feet long, weighs 16J tons and carries 35 tons nett.
The operations of the Electrical Department are far reaching. Nearly all the principal
yards, stations, offices, shops, and trains on the line are thus lighted at night. Electric power is shortly
ENGINES & ROLLING STOCK
ELECTRIC LIGHT AND POWER
to be utilized in driving machinerj' and also in many other directions. It is now being used for the working of powerful cranes, each with a lifting ca]iacity of 35 tons, and two of which are able to pick up bodily the heaviest locomotive.
A few facts and figures relative to this important branch of the Railway service may not be with- out interest.
A FEW FACTS AND FIGURES
In all the works and en- gines Natal coal is used. This is found to be by far the most economical. New and extensive " Running" sheds in which all engines ari prepared for their journeys, and attended to on their return, have recently been erected at Greyv'iHe and Pietermaritzburg.
BOTHA S HILL CUTTING
284
Reternianlzbura StdtionYoid
The Locomotive and Carriage and Wagon Works maintain the largest number of skilled employes in Natal. The training obtained therein is unquestionably the best in the Colon\-, and much in request by the sons of the working classes. The average is one apprentice to three journeymen, and the period of apprenticeship is five years. The hours of working are 8J per ordinary day, and 5i on Saturdays, or 48 hours per week.
The total number of European men and boys employed in the locomotive, carriage, wagon, and electrical departments is 1.765 ; Indians, 595 ; Kafirs. 679 ; while in addition no fewer than 713 Europeans are employed in running locomotive engines.
This large portion of the railway anatomy comprises so many works of various kinds and purposes, that it is only possible to enumerate the more
ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
important of the skilful achievements in surmounting the physical peculiarities which obtain in every part of Natal : e.g., the precision and soHdity of the permanent way at all points ; the difficult cuttings through the massive rocks at Botha's Hill and on the Berg : the line river bridges at Umbilo. Estcourt. Colenso, Ladysmith, \\'aschbank, Ingagane, on the main line, the Umkomaas and Ifafa bridges on the South Coast line, and the largest and newest of all. the magnificent bridge across the river at Lower Tugela ; the ingenious "reversing" stations by which the trains climb in zig- zags the Ingogo Heights and that portion of the Drakensberg which intersects the Harrismith line ; and, not least of all, the Lang's Nek tunnel, 2,213 feet long. The safe and efficient maintenance of the line also receives the greatest solicitude at the hands of this department.
285
The total engineering and maintenance staff numbers 487 Europeans, and about 2,000 Indians and Kafirs. For many years jiast the headtiiuirtcrs of the Dejiartment have been at Pietermaritzburg, and the control of its im])oriant ramifications has now become so extensive, that new ofi5ces are shortly to be erected at a cost of over £30,000.
After Durban, the principal stations are Maritzburg, Ladysmith, Newcastle, and Charlestown. The last-named is the busy point
OTHER DEPARTMENTS, STATIONS, AND DEPOTS
of traffic exchange with the Transvaal line. At each of these places there are large goods sheds, but naturally the most extensive areas ot merchan- dise accommodation are at Point and Durban, where long lines ol shedding and sidings
are continually in use. Locomotive depots are established at Maritzburg, Ladysmith andlCharlestown. witli District foremen in charge ; also minor engine-sheds at inter- mediate points.
286
An efficient European and Coloured Police Staff is distributed throughout the line for the maintenance of order, and the detection of any crime.
The Stores and Accountant's Departments are also big factors in the Kailvva\' Service.
The General Manager is assisted by an Assistant General Manager, Assistant Traffic
Manager, and a loyal and energetic staff, which has assumed large proportions within the last decade. To secure the best working of the traffic and the most satisfactory main- tenance of the line, the Railway is divided into four districts, the centre of each being Durban, ilaritzburg, Ladysmith, and Newcastle respectively. At these places District Traffic Superintendents are located, while Inspectors of the Permanent Way are stationed at these and a number of other points in addition.
There exist a numtier of e.xcellent institutions for the promotion of sociability, instruction,
and personal benefit amongst the Railway
GENERAL MANAGEMENT .AND DISTRICT SUPERVISION
SOCIAL INSTITUTIONS, &c.
staff. The Athletic Clubs, Literary Associa- tion and Library, Art School, Building Society, Savings Bank, etc., have large memberships, and it is a pleasure to record that all classes of the Department's employes mix together on the friendliest terms.
CARRI.\GE OF lOO-LH. GUN CONSTRUCTED IN N.G.R. LOCO. SHOPS
THE WAR PERIOD.
FOR nearly three years the energies of the Natal Railways were continuously absorbed by the necessities of the great Boer War. The assistance rendered by these lines during the extreme crisis of the first twelve months has already been recorded in other publications, and although it is only possible to retail here fragmentary
2S7
incidents ot the railway operations throughout the campaign, yet these will enaijle the reader to conceive the ma£;nitude of this assistance.
The Railway Department throughout the War conducted the transportation of troops with astonishing despatch, the whole of the working arrangements being retained in its own hands.
The following is a summary ot the .Military Traffic dealt with /;/ addilioti to ordinary passengers and goods, from the date of anticii)ation of the War, until the signing of the terms of surrender on the 31st May, 1902.
MILITARY TRAFFIC
SUMMARY OF TROOPS. Gb'.N'.S, VEHICLES, B.AGG.-VGE,
A.MMALS, SfPPLIKS. IWALIDS, Etc.,
CO.WKYED OVER THE .NATAL GOVER.VMEXT RAILWAYS,
FROM joTH SEPTE.MBER, 1899, TO 31ST M.AV, 190J.
Officers and Men and Prisoners of War
Women and Children, ineluding Boer RetiisJfees
.N'atives and Indians
\"ehicles. .
(.Tuns
.'Ammunition (boxes)
Baggage and Stores (tons) . .
Pontoons
Traction Engines and Carriages
Supplies (tons)
Hay and Forage (Ions)
Firewood, Coal, etc. (tons) ..
Live Stock (head! . .
Niniiber nt Inv.iliLls : Oflicers and .Men
79.7 '6 26.327
6,43°
454
9.7«4
9,684
48 84
6 1 8, .'43 176.758 56,048
398,910
68,912
The subjoined extract from the report of the General Manager for the twelve months ended 31st December, iqor, will illustrate the conditions under which the Railways were worked during that year and previously :
" The year has been one of unceasing activity, and the whole re-iources of the Department have been brought into operation to meet the requirements of the Milil;iry Authorities and the public. Th; tonnag» of traffic loidjd up at Point and Durban during the twelve months i9di equilled 5'5.7)5, or an in:r;is: upjn the work done for the twe ve months anterior to the War of 221,281 tons. The Military Autnorities have made very large use of the .Vatal Railway System for the transport of supplies to the Transvaal, and the number of live stock falling to be conveyed over the .Main Line for the .Military has been of exceptional magnitude, and, during the latter months of the year, of unbroken continuity."
"At the earlier stages of the War the mileage to be traversed with stores only represented little
more than half the mileage of the .Main Line. When the
enemy was driven beyond the Border, and communication
with the Transvaal was re-established, a large quantity
o( stores was sent over the .Main Line for the main body
of the army. The recovery ot the line to Harrismith
shortly after added to the tonnage conveyed over tlie svsiem, and during the year just closed the
feature of the .Military traffic has been that the bulk of'the tonnage was conveyed over the whole
mileage to Charlestown in the one direction, and Harrismith in the other."
THE EARLIER STAGES OF THE WAR
288
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In connection with tlio lutual operations of the War, tlie Department adapted six armoured, and three ambulance trains : found tlie necessary et]uii>ment for the latter ;
erected the " Princess Christian " hospital train; wired
SERVICES OK THE RAILWAY DEPARTMENT
and lamped the hospitals at four different centres, and supplied them with electric current, as well as that used for the X-rays apparatus. Also prepared special carriages for the 6-incli and 4.7 guns: mounted the electric search-light ajiparatus with engine, dynamo, etc. ; supplied 30,000 troops at Colenso with water ; found the plant and fuel for condensing water from the Klip River, Ladysmith. for 20,000 persons during the four months' siege ; allotted and arranged a portion of the goods-shed as the Base Medical Stores at Durban, and fitted up vans to follow the army with reser\e medical supplies. The Department's Engineering Staff speedily restored, or temporarily provided — not only on the Natal lines, but for over 100 miles on the Transvaal system after crossing the Border until the time the two British forces met — 72 bridges and culverts, varying in length from 15 to 600 feet, 32 different i)ortions of permanent way, many water-tanks, etc.; effected a clearance through the Lang's Nek Tunnel, and constructed several miles of new railway, sidings, and extensive deviations. The Natal Railway Pioneer staff also advanced with General Bullerand worked the Netherlands Railway as far as Greylingstad. 100 miles beyond Charlestown, until the line was taken over by the Imperial authorities on the 15th August, igoo.
For nearly six months — up to the relief of Ladysmith — the Natal lines were robbed of about 40 per cent, of their total mileage, and a quantity of their stock. Upon the clearance of the enemy from Natal and the south-eastern portion of the Transvaal, large supply depots were formed at Newcastle, V'olksrust, Standcrton, and intermediate points ; and, on the joining of the two main portions of the British Army at Heidelberg, the greater proportion of the stores for the forces in the Transvaal was conveyed via Natal, and this continued unceasingly until the termination of hostilities. The engines and wagons required to move this enormous traffic monopolised not less than 75 pir cent. of the then total locomotive rolling stock. As will thus be seen, but 25 per cent, of the Department's strength was available for civilian traffic, and it is a pleasurable reflection that the public endured the inevitable with praiseworthy loyalty. It should also be recorded that fully a quarter of the most serviceable carriage stock was withdrawn from regular traffic and converted into the three ambulance trains at the beginning of the war. This was another of the earlier drawbacks against which the railway had to contend.
The inestimable aid rendered by the Railways of Natal received the testimony
of the several Commanders-in-chief, as well as the heartiest universal appreciation. The yeoman, and in not a few cases, the heroic services of the Department's faithful servants have been freely commended, and the crowning recognition of the King in conferring the honour of knighthood upon the General Manager, may also be interpreted as conveying His Majesty's gracious remembrance of the devoted labours of the Staff.
FINIS.
SERVICES OF THE STAFF
290
INDEX.
STATIONS SHEWN IN HEAVIER TYPE. STOPPING PLACES ONLY (S.P.)
PAGE
/access to Towns, Villages, &-c. - - 256
Accommodation and Equipment, Port
Durban - - - - 10
Act Incorporating Zululand - - 227
Acton Homes, .Access to ■ ■ 103
Additional .Accommodation. Port Durban 12
-Agency for N'atal. London - - 273
.Agricultural Department - - 271
Journal - - - 271
Albert Falls ... - 207
Albertina ----- 217
Alcock's Spruit . - - - 129
Alexandra Junction - - - l8g
-AltVed County - . - - ig8
Aliwal Shoaf - - ■ - 188
.Alleman's Xek Fight - ■ 132, 136 -Altitudes - (Under each Station)
Amanzimtoti - - - - i8t
Kiver - • ■ iSi
,, Mission Station - - 1S2
.Amajuba - ■ - 131, 133, 136
.AmatiUulu River - - - - 173
-Amatongaland . - - - 172
.Animals of Natal - - - 23S
.Antelopes ,, ,, - - - ■ 240
-Area of Wharf Sheds, Port Durban - 10
,, Land, Natives - - - 254
,, Natal - - - - 227
-Armoured Train Disaster, Frere - 84
Arnold's Hill iS.P.I • ■ - 203
Arrangements. Port Durban - • 273
.Attractions, South Coast Line - - 177
.Ava. Earl — Grave of - - - 118
Avoca - - - - -156
B.
Government
I.M. TERIOl.OGIST,
Balgowan -
Banks, Tugela Kiver. (Colensol Bar Depths. Port Durban Bar, Large X'essels across the Bastion Hill
271 70 94
II 115
Battles and -Minor Exgagements (Boer War) : — -Alleman's Nek - • - 132
Cesar's Camp - ■ -112
Colenso - - - - 86
Eland's Laagte - - 120
Farquhar's Farm (Lombard's Kop) ■ 106 Gun Hill - - - - no
Hart's Hill - - 92, 93, 95. 96, 99
Helpmakaar Hill - - ■ no
Nicholson's Nek - - - 1O8
PAGE
- no 93. 96, 99
93.99
■ 106 no
- 115 126
- 117
- 112 81
5 81 80
- 206 • 36
9
- 3i
■ 213
- "3 121, 132
Observation Hill Pieter's Hill Railway Hill
Rietfontein (Tinta Inyoni) Surprise Hill
Spion Kop (Intabmnyamal Talana (Dundeel Vaal Krantz Wagon Hill -
Willow Grange (Beacon Hill) Bay, The Durban Beacon Hill Before Colenso
Belfort - - - -
Bellair - - - -
Bell's Quay Berea Road Bester's - - . .
Farm Biggarsberg, The Bird's Eye Map of War District.
Pocket Back Cover Birds, Natal - - . - 245
Blaauw Krantz River - - 85
Monument 84, 86
Blinkwater Hill - - - - 208
Blood Kiver - - • 83
Bluff Branch, The - - - 178
Bluff, The . - . 4. g. 178
Boer Bridge, Colenso - - 90, 99
Boer War Battles - - (See Battles)
I^oer War. Books of Reference ■ - 79
Cause of - ■ ■ 125
., Movements after Ladysinith - 132
Boksburg - - ■ - 141
Boshoff^s Road (S.P.) - - 65
I^oston - - - - -221
Botha's Hill - - 46
,, Pass - - - . 1^2
Boundaries. Natal ■ - ■ 227
Brakfontein - - - - 117
Brakwal - - - 213
Branch Lines : —
Bluff 178
Dundee and \'ryheid - 122
Grey town . - . - 205
Harrismith . - - . 212
North Coast - ■ - - '53
Richmond - . - . 201
South Coast - • • • '77
L'mzinto - - - . 189
Breakwaters, Durban Harbour - - 4
British Troops & Guns, Colenso Battle 88, 8g
Brynbella - - - - 81
Buffalo River - • 124, 133. 135
291
INDEX -continued
Hullcr's (Gcnerall Relieving Movements 90 .. After r.adysmith i j2 Bulwcr - 221. 222, 25fi
Hushman Rivers - - S2
Hushmen's Caves - 84, 215
Butterflies, \atal - 243
Byrne .... 203, 256
|
\^>.i;sAR s Camp . |
lOI |
|
|
,. and \Vat,'on Hill Battl |
e . |
1 12 |
|
Camperdown |
4S |
|
|
ICnitr},'cncy Dam . |
48 |
|
|
Cannon Kinployed. Ladysmitli Siejje |
112 |
|
|
Cape-Xatal Line - |
205. |
223 |
|
Car^o. Tonnage and \'aluc of |
10 |
|
|
Catholic Native Mission. Bluff |
178 |
|
|
Cato Ridge |
47 |
|
|
Cause of Boer War |
125 |
|
|
Caversham |
69 |
|
|
Caves. Bushmen's |
215 |
|
|
Klip River |
118 |
|
|
Cemeteries. Military |
(see M) |
|
|
Cereals .... |
238 |
|
|
Chaka's Kraal |
164 |
|
|
Village . |
I ft., |
|
|
Champagne Castle. Orakensherf; |
7' |
|
|
Characteristics <if Coloured Peoples |
2t1. |
25.5 |
|
Charlestown |
^i(> |
|
|
Chieveley |
83 |
|
|
Camp |
^5 |
118 |
|
Militarv Ceincterv |
85 |
|
|
Churchill Road (S.l'.i |
'53 |
|
|
Cin};ola Hill |
87. 90 |
|
|
Cl.insthal iS.P.) |
188 |
|
|
Clairmont |
17S |
|
|
Claystone I'orphyry |
231 |
|
|
Clearing Natal after Ladysmith • |
•32 |
|
|
Climate, Natal |
7'J |
249 |
|
Climatic, etc. Conditions |
249 |
|
|
Coal & Coal Minin<;. Natal 79. ii> |
231 |
272 |
|
Coalfields iTalanai ■ |
123 |
|
|
Coalin.L;. Port Durban |
12 |
|
|
Coal Output - - 122 |
1^3 |
2^9 |
|
Colenso .... |
86 |
|
|
Battlefields |
S6-96 |
|
|
Colley, The late Sir (ieorge |
IJ5 |
|
|
Coloured Peoples - |
251 |
253 |
|
Colworth (S.P.) |
213 |
|
|
Commerce, .Statistics of . |
267 |
|
|
Commissioner of Mines - |
272 |
|
|
Concerning the Orange River Colony |
220 |
|
|
,. .. Transvaal Colony |
■49 |
|
|
,, Zululand |
172 |
|
|
Conference — Generals Buller and Bo |
ha |
132 |
|
Congella .... |
34 |
|
|
Counties, Towns, Villages, etc. . |
255 |
|
|
Courts and Law |
260 |
|
|
Cowies Hill |
38 |
|
|
Cramond (S.P.I |
207 |
|
|
Cranes, Port Durban |
10 |
Crook's Siding (S.P.) Crops drown Crown and Native Lands Custom House. Point Customs Revenue
PAGE 188 238 267 fl 2(17
D,
Districts •
271 207 101 129 69 69 if.S 2fi6 124 271 272 2S4
3
9
79
12 280
103 171
27'
6
• 142 87. 96, 117 I. 212, 227
'aiuv Industry
Dalton
Dam. Klip River •
Dannhauser
Darijle and Impendh
Dargle Road
Darnall
Debt. Natal Public
Denny Dalton (loldlields
Department of Agriculture Mines
Departments, etc.. Natal Railways
Depth on Bar. Port Durban ,, at Wharves
Description of War District
Developments, Port Durban Railway -
Dewdrop
Dini/ulu. Chief
Disease in Stock -
Disposition of Cannon, Ladysmith Siege H2
I^istances from Durban {i'lulvr t'dcli Sliiliaii)
Divisions, Towns, Villages, etc. ■ 2j')
Docks. Tour of the
Doornfontein
Doom Kloof Range
Drakensberg Mountains •
Dredgers. Durban Harbour
Dronk \ki
Drummond
Duff's Road
DiNDKi-: ANi> \'nviii;iD Bkanch. I'lir, 1221I JVI/.
Dundee - 122 ft so/. : —
.Attractions ■ ■ 122
Battlefields (Talana) • - 126
Buildings . ■ - - I22
Climate - 123
Clubs, etc. - '23
Hotels ■ i2i
Population .122
Durban ■ - '3 ^' scii.:—
Albert Park . - - 16,23
Assets and Liabilities - - 14
Area of Borough - • ■ '3
Banks, etc. - '7
Birth Rate - ■3
Botanic (lardens ■ - 26
Buildings • ■ .14
Cemetery (New) 25
(Old) • 30
Climate - • • '3
Commercial Houses, etc. - - '7 Corporation, Number of Members . 14
Lands - ■ '4
10 203
46 '.Sf>
292
[NDEX— continuet
Death Kate
Entertainments and Recreations
Esconibe Statue
Foundation
General Post Office -
Government Laboratories
Hotels, etc.
Institutions and .•\ssociations
■■Jubilee'' Fountain
■• Lords " •
Municipal Facts
Newspapers •
Observatory -
Oval, The Albert Park
Parks
Places of Worship
Plan of Durban
Police Force and Fire Brigade
Population
Public Gardens
Library and Reading Room
Market House
Museum and .^rt Gallery ,, Swimming P.aths Queen Victoria Statue Racecourse
Railway Station (Central) Rateable Value of Properties Kates
Revenue and Expenditure Schools
Sewerage System Societies and Clubs - Streets [see also plan at />. 17) Theatre Royal Town Hall
Tram Service, etc. (see plan) - V'asco da Gama Monument - Volunteer Corps Water Supply
Durban — Round Tour :
FROM THE POINT 1
■I'ia Point Road West Street Gardiner Street Bay Embankment St. Andrew's Street Albert Park Park Street Berea Road Musgrave Road Florida Road First Avenue Umgeni Road and Railway Street to'the
CENTR.\L RAILWAY STATION.
Durban Road (S.P.)
- 13 15, 16
• ^3 13
22, 30
■ 28 14. 17
15 20
■ 30 14
■ 15 27, 28
- 16
- 16
- 15
- (// 17
15
• 13 20 20
22. 30 20 20 21 30
22,30 14 14 14 15 15
15 14 25 20 14. 17
17 20
15
17-30
|
Caklv History, Natal Railways |
- 274 |
|
Edendale Falls |
- 64 |
|
Mission Station |
- 64 |
|
Post Cart Service |
221, 256 |
|
Education - - . . |
- 262 |
|
Edward's Falls |
- 207 |
|
Elandsfontein Junction |
■ 141 |
|
Elands Laagte |
• 120 |
|
.. Battlefield - |
120 |
|
,. Mines |
- 120 |
|
Elands River |
- 221 |
|
Electric Lighting Station. Durban |
33 |
|
Emberton (S.P.) - |
45 |
|
Emigrants. Useful Information - |
- 273 |
|
Emtonjaneni |
- 172 |
|
Engineering Dept.. Natal Railways |
- 285 |
|
Ennersdale |
84 |
|
Entomological |
- 247 |
|
Entomologist, Government |
- 271 |
|
Entrance into Ladysmith,Lord Dund |
anald's 94 |
|
Epitome of Cause of Boer War - |
- 125 |
|
Equefa District |
• 190 |
|
Equipment, etc.. Port Durban |
10 |
|
Eshowe .... |
- 170 |
|
Esidumbeni Mission Station |
■ 163 |
|
Esperanza - - - - |
• igo |
|
Esplanade. Durban Bay - |
22 |
|
Estcourt - . . . |
8i |
|
,. Town and District |
81, 82 |
|
Expenditure and Revenue |
■ 266 |
|
Exports and Imports |
- 267 |
|
Extensions. Railway |
- 280 |
^03
|
rACiLiTiEs, Port Durban |
5. 9. 10 |
|
Falls, Colenso |
99 |
|
Fares. Ocean Lines of Steamers - |
- 273 |
|
Fares, Railway (from Durban! |
|
|
( Under eac |
li Station) |
|
Farquhar's Farm Fight |
106. 120 |
|
Fauna . - - . |
- 238 |
|
Fern Hill (S.P.) - |
- 67 |
|
Ferns - . . . |
• 238 |
|
Fibre - . . . |
■ 238 |
|
Field's Hill (S.P.) - |
44 |
|
Final .\ttack. Relieving Column - |
92 |
|
Final Movements, Relieving Column |
• 90 |
|
Finance Statistics |
- 266 |
|
First Boer Attack |
■ 126 |
|
Fish. Natal |
■ 245 |
|
Flora, .. ... |
■ 232 |
|
Forests, .. ... |
232 |
|
Fort .-Vmiel |
■ 131 |
|
Durnford |
■ 82 |
|
.. Itala . - ^ - |
■ 172 |
|
.. .Molyneux |
- 99 |
|
.. Pearson |
- 169 |
|
.. Wvlie |
S7-97 |
|
Fox Hill .... |
- 49 |
|
Fraser's Siding (S.P.) |
- 163 |
|
Frere . . . . |
■ 84 |
293
INDBX— continued
Frere, Armoured Train Oisaster „ Military Cemetery -
Fruit Cultivation „ District
Fruits. Natal
Fufjitive's Drift
Fvnnland (S.F.I
I'Aoi;
• «4
- 84
- 269
35.37
■ 237
- 212 . 1 78
G.
24S
'73
Iamk Laws
/ululand Garden Colony, (iate of Garrisons - Oo. 103. 131, 171. 263
General Map of Colony ■ at />. 227
Geology . . . . . j^o
Geriniston • - - 14'
Giant's Castle. Drakensber.i; 71. 228
Gillitt's -45
Ginginhlovu - . i^o
Gkn ■ ■ 81
Glencoc Junction . - . . 122
Goldficlds and Gold Mining. Natal
iz^. 190. 212. 232. 272
Goldfields, /ululand ■ - 124. 172
Goods ICxported, \'aluc of ■ 10, 267
Government .... 257
Bacteriologist • ■ 271
Commissioner of Mines -■ 272
Director of Agriculture - 271
,, Fntomologist 271
„ Pomologisl - 271
Railways, Opening of - 274
Governors, List of ... 260
Gradient Profile. Natal Railways - 281
Gradients and Curves, Natal Railways - 281
Grange - - 64
Granite Outcrop - 46, 230
Grasses, Natal .... 238
Graves and Monlments - (see M)
Great Hoer War, Cause of • - 125
,, Field of Colenso, The 87
Green Hill • 87
(S.P.) ■ ■ 203
Green Point Beacon - :88
Greenstone and Trap 231
Greenwood Park '55
Greytown, Town of - • ■ 209
(ireytown. Beyond ■ • - 211
Greytown I^kanch. The 205 et scij.
Greyviile ■ '53
Grobelaar's Kloof Range ■ 87, 96, 97
Groutville Mission Station ■ - 164
GfiDE TO THE Railways, etc. - 3-223
Introductory Notes - xii
Gun Hill, Chieveley - 85
Ladysmith - ■ loi. no
ilANDHOoK oi- General Iniokmation
227-273
Handbook, Introductory Notes to • 226
Harhour, Durban i el seq : —
Bar 3
|
PAGE |
||
|
Bav • |
5 |
|
|
Bluff Lighthouse |
4 |
|
|
Breakwaters - |
4 |
|
|
Docks |
5-'2 |
|
|
Signal Station |
5 |
|
|
Harden Heights (S.P.I |
- 208 |
|
|
Harding |
198, 205, 256 |
|
|
Harrismith and the War |
- 219 |
|
|
Hakrismith Branch. The |
212 et SC(/. |
|
|
District |
- 218 |
|
|
Harrismith Town |
• 217 |
|
|
Harrison |
47 |
|
|
Hartebeest |
■ 20S |
|
|
Hart's |
• 99 |
|
|
.. Mill 87. 91, 92, |
93. 95- |
96, 97, 99 |
|
Hatting Spruit |
- 129 |
|
|
Head Oltices and Station, Du |
rban |
- 283 |
|
Heidelberg |
■ 140 |
|
|
llclpniakaar Hill Attack |
- no |
|
|
Herniansburg Road (S.P.) |
209, 256 |
|
|
Highlands |
- 81 |
|
|
Hilton Road |
- 66 |
|
|
Hinie\ille |
- 222 |
|
|
Hints to Tourists, South Coast Line |
■ '77 |
|
|
History of Natal Railways |
- |
■ 274 |
|
HIabisa and Coalfields |
■ '72 |
|
|
Hlangwane - 87, |
90, 91 • |
92, 96, 97 |
|
Hlatikulu |
121, 228 |
|
|
Hospital Siding |
- 67 |
|
|
Hotel .Accommodation, Durban ■ |
- 273 |
|
|
Houses of Parliament |
257, 260 |
|
|
Horns. S.A. .-\ntelope. Key to |
- 240 |
|
|
Horse Sickness, etc.. Investigation |
- 271 |
|
|
Howick |
- 07 |
|
|
Howick Falls |
■ 67 |
|
|
Hulett's (S.P.) |
. 164 |
|
|
Hussar Hill |
- 87 |
|
|
Hut Tax. Natives - |
- 253 |
ll AlA iS.P.I - . . . Iijl
Illovo River ... 1S3
Illovo Beach (S.P.I • - 184
Impendhla -69, 251^
Impolweni (S.P.) ■ ■ - • 207
Imports and Exports - ■ - 267
Importation of Indians - • - 251
Improvements, Port ■ - 12
Railway - - - 280
fnanda Mountains and Mission Station - 159
Inchanga 47
Indians, Concerning the • - - 251
Indigo ..... 238
Indumeni Mountain - - 121
Industries ----- 268
Infant Railway — Year i860 ■ - 274
Ingagane • - 129 Ingeli .Mountains • - ■ 198, 228
Ingogo - - • - '3'
Ingogo — Early Events - - 131, 133
Ingwavuma .... 172
Inkwelo Mountain - - 131
Inkweloane Mountain - - 132
294
INDEX— continued
Insects, Natal . . . .
Insuzi Goldfields . - - .
Intabmnyama (Spion Kop) Battle Intombi (Indomba) Cemetery and Camp
lOI, TOCJ
Introductor\' Notes, First Book -
Second ,. Introduction to War District Ipolela District . . . .
Iron-ore .... -
Irrigation Works .... Isandhlwana Isezela (S.P.)
Isipingo - . -
Ixopo (Stuartstown)
PAGE
245
172
115
"9 xii
- 226
• 79
- 221
- 231 ■ 271
124, 212
- igi
- 179
256
205,
J
s - - - - - 1 78
"Jacob's Ladder," South Coast Junction 36
Jeppestown . . . . i_).2
Johannesburg - - 142 et sctj. : —
Attractions, etc. - - - 145
De Kaap Valley - - 14J
Discovery of Gold • ■ - 143
Gold Output - - - - i^^.
History . . . . i_j6
Population . - - . i^j
Press ----- 145
Railway Fares, etc. - - - 142
Sanitation, etc. - ■ - 145
Social Life . - - . i^.^
Streets and Buildings - - 142
Jonono's Kop . . . . 120
K.
^M'lK Corn Crop, igoi - Kahtskop Tunnel Kar Kloof Falls
,, .. Range - Kearsney — Tea Estates and Railvva}- Key to Antelope Horns Klip River Dam King, Richard King's Rest (S.P.) - Kingston - . - .
Kirchdorf - - - -
Knuckles, The
Kokstad - . . .
Krantz Kloof
,, ,, — Gorge and Kloofs
Krantz Kop
269
159 67 207 166 240
lOI
179 178
- 70
- 256
- 215 igS, 205
■ 44
44
211. 256
34'
Ladysmith ioielse(/.: —
Battlefields and Hills — Engagements :
CsEsar's Camp
Farquhar's Farm (Lombard's Kop)
Gun Hill
Helpmakaar Hill
Nicholson's Nek
Observation Hill
112 106 no no 108 no
PAGE
Rietfontein (Tinta Inyoni) - - 106
Spion Kop (Intabmnyama) • 115
Surprise Hill - - - no
Vaal Krantz - 117
Wagon Hill ■ - - -112
Historic Hills
Map Shewing Positions — Boer Wny — at 107
Siege —
|
Bombardment |
104 |
|
|
Cannon employed |
1 12 |
|
|
Casualties |
104 |
|
|
Historic hills (sf« map, p. 107) |
103, |
106 |
|
Losses |
104 |
|
|
Intombi - - loi |
. lOCJ |
1, 119 |
|
Occupants |
104 |
|
|
Prices of edibles, etc. |
104 |
|
|
Scale of rations |
104 |
|
|
Tribute, Duke of 'i'ork's |
'05 |
|
|
Troops and Guns • - 103, |
, 104 |
.. 112 |
|
Where shells fell. Railway Yard |
- |
2S9 |
|
Town — |
||
|
Cemetery |
118 |
|
|
Hotels, etc. |
103 |
|
|
Population |
lOI |
|
|
Post Cart Services |
103 |
|
|
Rates - - - - |
lOI |
|
|
Situation |
lOI |
|
|
Streets, etc. |
102 |
|
|
Tin Town |
103, |
119 |
|
Town Hall |
102. |
119 |
|
Value of Properties - |
lOI |
|
|
La Mercy (S.P.) - |
162 |
|
|
Land under tillage. Natal - |
268 |
|
|
Lands, Native, Crown, and Mission |
267 |
|
|
Langerwachte Spruit |
91 |
|
|
Bridge |
98 |
|
|
Lang's Nek (S.P.) - 132. |
133- |
135 |
|
.. Tunnel |
132. |
136 |
|
Large Vessels berthed |
II |
|
|
Law and Courts |
260 |
|
|
Laws, Game |
248 |
|
|
Lidgetton - . - - |
69 |
|
|
Lighters and Tugs, Port Durban |
10 |
|
|
Lighthouse, Bluff - |
4 |
|
|
Scottsburg - |
188 |
|
|
Light Railway, Kearsney |
166 |
|
|
Limestones, Natal |
231 |
|
|
Lindley Mission Station - |
159 |
|
|
Lion's River Falls |
70 |
|
|
Live Stock, Natal - |
270 |
|
|
Locomotive Department. N.G.R. |
2S4 |
|
|
Lombard's Kop Fight |
1 06 |
|
|
Long, Col. (Guns, Colenso) |
89 |
|
|
Losses (Boer War. 1899-1900): |
||
|
.Alleman's Nek |
"32 |
|
|
Colenso (First Battle) |
88 |
|
|
Dundee (Talana) |
127 |
295
INDEX— continued
A OK 121
) 94 "7
'•3
1 68 T84
273 221
^7> 70
Elands Laagte
Kelitf of Ladysmith (includin;; (Jolcnso Spion Kop, etc., - • n''-
Ihroughout Natal CampaiRn \\'agon Hill - • ■
Lower Tugela
„ Umkomaas - - • -
Luggage Arrangements, Port Durban
Lundv's Hill • - • ■
Lung'Sickness, etc., Investigation
Lynedoch
Mahlabatini 172
Mahwaqa Mountain ■ 221
M AiN Line oi- Railway, Description of :
Durban to Mooi River - 33 et seq.
Mooi River to Colenso 80 .,
Colenso to Ladysmith 97 •■
Ladysmith to Cilencoe Junction
and Dundee - - 119 ..
GlencoeJunctiontoCharlestown 129 .. Charlestown to Johannesburg 1J9 .. Main Wagon Road, Colenso ■ - 94
Majuba - ■ - I3i- ^ii- >36
Malvern "37
Management, Railway • - 287
Manderston - 48
Manufactories tc. ■ - ■ 268
Maps and P ,.ns :
Bird's hye Map War District.
Pocket Back Cover.
|
Durban, Street Plan |
- |
at p. 17 |
|
Ladysmith. Map shewing positions |
||
|
(Boer War) .. 107 |
||
|
.\alal. General Map of |
.. 227 |
|
|
Pietcrmaritzbtirg, Street Plan |
.. 61 |
|
|
Railuay Station. Sketch |
.Map |
.. 279 |
|
Marburg |
197, 256 |
|
|
Mariannhill Monastery |
41. 42 |
|
|
Maritzburg (see Pietermarit |
zburgl |
51 ct seij. |
|
Matawana Mountain |
121 |
|
|
Mealies Crop 1901 |
269 |
|
|
Melmoth • |
172 |
|
|
Melville (S.P.) |
192 |
|
|
Members, Legislative Chambers ■ |
260 |
|
|
Merebank - |
• 179 |
|
|
Meteorological |
249, 250 |
|
|
Michael House College • |
• 70 |
|
|
Military Camp Siding |
• 63 |
|
|
Military Cemeteries: |
||
|
Chieveley |
• S5 |
|
|
Fort Napier - |
■ 63 |
|
|
Frere - |
- 84 |
|
|
Ladysmith (Intombi) |
- 119 |
|
|
Lang's Nek • |
• U3 |
|
|
\'arious Battle Hills - |
(sec B) |
|
|
Military Traffic - |
10. 288 |
|
|
Mimosa |
- 81 |
|
|
Minerals - |
•73 |
231, 272 |
NJ. (JO, 9>
Mines, Department of Dundee Number of - Mining Law and Terms Ministry (1902I. Natal Minor Slountains - Productions ,. Rivers Mission Reserve Lands Mission Stations:
Aman/iintoti (Adam's)
Bluft' ■
Ldendale
I'showe
Ivsidumbeni
Groutville
Lindlty (Inannai
Mariannhill Modder Spruit Miint aux Sources Monte Cristo Monuments and Graves :
Chievelev
Colenso it Pieter's, 89,96,97,98,99 Dundee iTalana) ■ Inlands Laagte Frere - Ladysmith Lang's Nek Majuba Spion Kop Mooi River Mooi River. .Attack on
„ .. Falls ■ Moths. Natal Mount .Mice Mount Edgecombe Mount Edgecombe Sugar Mill Moreland (S.P.( ■ Moriah Mount Prospect (Natal I -
(^ululand) Mount Rule Mountain Rise (S.P.I
Svstem • Mounted Police '■ Mournful Monday " Movements. Relieving Column
Natal Army, After Ladysm Munger's Drift Municipal System -
108, 109, II
PAGE
272 123
2()8
272
260
228
269 229
2f)7
182
■78
b4 170
■63 164
159
4J
120 218
, i)C->. 97
85, 86 100, lOI 127 121 84 118 133 135 116 80 80 73 245 117 ■56 ■56 162 156 ■35 172
49 2o5
227 263 106
90 '32
n5 264
73
ith
N.
Jatal .Agency. London • 273
Natal Campaign- • jc^etseq.:—
Books of Reference ■ - 79
\li,f, . . ■ Pocket Back Cover
Movements, Relieving Column - 90
After Ladysmith - 132
Natal Cape Line - -' • 205, 223
Natal Central Sugar Estate and Mill ■ 156
296
INDEX— continued
Natai,. Genekal Ini-okmati
fSvc List of Subjects iindcy '
and Miip at p. 227 1 Native, Crown, and Mission L
„ Education, Zululand Natives, Concerning the ■ Navigation and St. George's H Ndwandwe Nel's Rust - Nelson's Kop New Brighton (S.P.) Newcastle : —
Attractions
Churches, etc.
Industries
Population
Kates -
Societies, etc.
Town Hall
Value of Properties
War Period ■ New Germany
., Guelderland (S.P.) New Hanover " New Republic " ■ Nicholson's Nek - Nkandhia - Nondweni Goldfields Nondweni Road Noodsberg Mountains Noodsberg Road Nqutu Road NoKTH Coast Bkanch, Northdene
Norwegian Mission Station Nottingham Nottingham Road
ON " Ciin
ands
PAGE
227 [■/ seq. tents"
ranches -
The
Ot
'liSEKVATioN Hill .-Attack Ocean Lines of Steamers: Fares Onderbrook Spruit O'Neil's Farm
Orange River Colony Junction Orange Ri\er Colony :
Area ....
Districts
Harrismith
History
Physical Features
Situation Ores, Iron and Copper Ottawa . . - .
Otto's Bluff
2by 172
253 129 172 201
215 178
130 130 130 130 130 130 130 130 130 131 41 168 207 124 108 172 124
124
228
- 207 124, 172
153 et seq.
- 38
- 170 70, 256
- 70
1 10, III
- 273 91. 97
- 135
- 212
- 220
- 220 217, 2ig
- 220
- 220
- 220 232
158 207
208,
231
I AI.MIET - - - .
Palms, \alal
Park Rynie
ParlianiL-nt, Houses of
Past. Present, and Future, Railways
Patent Slip, Port Durban
42
235 188
257
274 10
- 51 ':'
Recreatio
Duk
Paul's Wharf, Port Durban Pennington (S.P.I Peoples, Occupations, etc. of Pepworth's Hill Perimeter of British Defence Ladysmith (sec Map. p. J07) Pier (Southl. Durban Harbour Pietermaritzburg
.Alexandra Park and Grounds
.Area of Borough
Assets and Liabilities
Banks -
Birth Rate
Botanical Gardens
Cabs, etc.
Climate
Death Kate -
Electric Lighting Works
Entertainments
E.xhibitions
Extract from Speech H.K.H of York
Formation of City
Fort Napier
Foundation
Garrison
General Attractions -
Holiday Centres and Picnickin Places
Hotels, etc. (Also see Plan) ■
Industries
Military Cemetery
Municipal Matters
Natal Society
New Buildings
Newspapers -
Places of Public Resort ,, ,. Worship -
Plan of Picterniaritzhurfi
Police Force and Fire Brigade ,, (Natal Mounted)
Population
Post Cart Services: Edendale, Bu wer, and Boston
Public Buildings
Railway Facilities
Rateable Value of Borough -
Rates - - - -
Revenue and Expenditure
Rifle .Association
Sanitation
Schools
Situation
Societies. Institutions, and Clubs
Statuary, etc.
Streets, etc. [see Plan at 61) -
Suburbs
Town Bush and Chase Valleys
Town Hall ■
Town Lands, \alue ol
Volunteers
PAGE 9
igi
251 120
112
4
n
54 52 52 59 53 55 61
54 53 63 58
62 52 60
51 60 6
54- 5'
61 58 63 52 56 53 59 53 59 at 61
53
60
61
53
61
52 52 52 60
53 59 51 56 56 52 bi
55 53 52 60
297
INDEX -continufJ
|
PAGE |
|
|
War Period - |
- 62 |
|
Water Supply |
• 53 |
|
Waterworks - |
55 |
|
Pieter's |
- 99 |
|
I'icters Hill and Battle - |
87. 0.?. 9''. 99 |
|
Pinetown • |
41 |
|
Pinetown Bridge ■ |
38 |
|
Phoenix |
■ '56 |
|
Physical Geography. Natal |
■ 2^7 |
|
Pliins mill Mill's |
(ScY M) |
|
Point, Port Durban: |
|
|
The Docks - 6 Wharves - q |
|
|
.. Jetty - 8 Work |
at • 9 |
|
I'ogwana Mountain |
13'- 'ii- '3<^' |
|
Polcla District |
• 221 |
|
Police. Mounted ■ |
- 26J |
|
Pomeroy • |
- 256 |
|
Pomologist. Government |
- 271 |
|
Pom-Pom Bridge |
98 |
|
Pontoons— Colenso Battles |
92, 99 |
|
Population. Natal |
- 250 |
|
I'oRT OF Dirban: |
- 3 el seq. : — |
|
Developments at |
12 |
|
Features of - |
- 3-8 |
|
Militarv Traffic |
10 |
|
Officials |
12 |
|
Iradc. etc.. Statistics |
10 |
|
Port Shepstone |
193 el seij.:— |
|
Attractions - |
196-198 |
|
Creation of Port |
■ 193 |
|
Entrance and Bar |
• 194 |
|
Marble Quarries |
- 196 |
|
Marburg |
■ 197 |
|
Possibilities - |
- "95 |
|
Post Cart Service |
- 198 |
|
River Umzimkulu |
■ 196 |
|
St. Helen's Rock |
- 196 |
|
Trade - |
■ '95 |
|
\'illage and Environs |
■ 195 |
|
Postal and Telegraph Systems, |
Natal - 265 |
|
Post Cakt Sekvicks : |
|
|
To Boston |
- 221 |
|
.. Bulwer |
- 221 |
|
.. Dronk Vlei |
205 |
|
,, Hdendale ■ |
■ 221 |
|
„ Eshowe |
169 |
|
„ Harding • |
198, 205 |
|
,, Kokstad - |
198, 205 |
|
„ Stuartstown (Ixopo) |
- 205 |
|
„ Unizimkulu |
- 205 |
|
,, N'ryhcid |
- 124 |
|
., Weenen |
- 82 |
|
Potgieter's Drift - |
- 115 |
|
Practical Working, Natal Rail |
wavs - 281 |
|
Press |
- 265 |
|
Pretoria ■ |
147 c/ sc,].:— |
|
Buildings, etc. |
. 148 |
|
Capital, The - |
■ '47 |
|
Diamond Mining |
- 149 |
|
History |
- 148 |
|
Industries |
■ 149 |
|
Population |
. 148 |
Princess Christian Hospital, Site of Principal Buildings, etc.. Natal Railways I'roductions, Colonial Public Debt. Natal „ Wharf. Point Works
R.
PACE
40
282 268 266
9
266, 267
280
kAii.WAV Extensions
Railways. Gi'iDE TO THE - 3-223 Railwav Hill - - 87.93,9^.99 Ram.wavs of Natal : .\ Review— 274 cl sei/. :
Gradient Profile - ■ - 281 Head Oflicts and Station Buildings - 283
Length of Lines - - - 277 M„p of Kaih^ays ■ 279 and at p. 227
Militarv Traflic • - 288
Past. Present and Future - - 274
Phvsical Features, etc. - - 281
Practical Working - - 281
'• Reid" Engine - - - 282
Statistics - ■ - 276
War Period, The - ■ - 287
Workshops and Departuicnts - 284
Railways. O.R.C. - - - - 219
Ravcnsworth (S.P.) - - - 208
Red Hill (S.P.) - - ■ '55
Reference Books, Natal Campaign 79
Reit Vlei - - - " 75- 211
Relief of Ladysmith. Operations - 9°
Losses - ■ 94
Rensburg Kop - • • ■ 215
Reptiles. Natal - ■• ■ 239 Retreat of \'ule'sColumn from Dundee 106, 127
Reunion - - - " ' '79
Revenue and Expenditure. Natal ■ 266
Revenue, Customs .. - ■ 267 Reversing Stations, Harrismith Branch - 213
Main Line - • '35
Review of Railway System - 274-290
Richmond - 203 RicHMOSD Branch. The - 201 d seq.
Richmond District - - - 204
Rictfontein Fight (Tinta Inyoni) 106, 120
Rinderpest, etc.. Investigation - - 271
Rivers, Natal - - - -229
Roberts, Lieut.. Monument to - 85, 89
Rodents, Natal ■ - 239
Rooi Pvnt - 129
Rorke's Drift - ■ '24- 212
Rosetta - - 72
|
Oaint Lucia Bay |
■ 173 |
|
Salisbury Island. Durban |
12 |
|
Sandstones, Natal |
• 230 |
|
Scenery, Harrismith Branch |
• 212 |
|
South Coast Branch |
- 186 |
|
„ Umzinto Branch |
- 189 |
|
,, Uplands, Natal • |
■ 79 |
|
Schains Hoogte (Ingogo) |
■ '34 |
298
INDEX— continuea
Schools, Natal ... -
ScottChisholm. Col.. Grave of - Scottsburg (S.P.) -
„ Lighthouse
Seaport Town of Durban, The Seasons. Natal - - •
Sea View - - - - -
Services of Natal Kailuays. War Period Seven Oaks ....
Shepstone, Port - - - isee
Shipping Tonnage Statistics Ships Entered Port Durban Siege, Ladysmith - - - {sa
Signal Station. Durban Harbour Silver. Natal - . . .
Situation of Natal
Slip at Point ....
Social Conditions. Natal - South African Constabulary Remount
Depot - - - - -
South Coast Junction South Coast Br.\nch, The - 178 et
Spearman's Farm - - - -
Spion Kop, Battle of -
Spitz Kop - - - - -
Spots where Shells fell, Ladysmith
Station Yard - - . -
Springfield District - - 84,
Stamford Hill - . - -
Standerton - - - - -
Stanger . . - - -
Statistics: Commerce ,, Finance
„ Military Traffic - 10,
„ l^ailways - - 276,
,, Trade. Shipping, etc. - 10,
Steamers and I^'ares, Ocean Line Steevens, G. \\'., Grave of Sterk Spruit ....
Stock in Natal . . . -
Stuartstown (I.xopo) - - 205,
Sub-tropical Fruits - - 237,
Sugar Mills. Principal - - 156,
,. Production of -
Refinery, South Coast Junction Sunday's River - - - -
Surprise Hill, Sortie Swan's Crossing (S.P.) Sweet Waters ... -
Svdenham, .Access to - - 28,
AGE
262 118 188 188
13 249
36 287 208
P.)
267
10
L.)
4
232
227
10
265
45
36
sei].
"5 "5 132
289 118
153 140 164 267 266 288
267
273 "8 207
27o 256 26q
"^3 269
36
I2i
"o
6^
^5
256
|
PAGE |
|
|
Terraces (Phvsica! Geographv) - |
- 227 |
|
Terrace Hill'lHart'sl |
(Sit H.) |
|
Territory of Zululand |
- 172 |
|
Territory Recently Acquired |
- 227 |
|
Thorns, The Umvoti |
- 211 |
|
Thornville Junction |
- 48 |
|
'• Three Sisters," The |
- 215 |
|
Three Tree Hill - |
- 115 |
|
Through the Scenes of first Battles |
119 ct S€q. |
|
.. Transvaal to Johan- |
|
|
nesburg - |
139 >. |
|
.. War District |
79 " |
|
Tiger's Kloof |
- 129 |
|
Timber, Natal |
232, 236 |
|
Tinata Inyoni Fight |
106, 120 |
|
Tin Town Camp, Ladysmith |
103, 119 |
|
Tintwa Pass |
- 218 |
|
Tongaat - - . - |
- 162 |
|
„ River |
- 163 |
|
,, Sugar Mill |
- 162 |
|
Tongaland (Amatongaland) |
■ 172 |
|
Tonnage. Ships and Cargo |
ID |
|
Tour of Durban - |
17 |
|
„ The Docks, Point |
6 |
|
•• Towers, " The Drakensberg |
72 |
|
Town and Port of Durban |
3 |
|
., Cemetery, Ladysmith |
- 118 |
|
Towns, \'illages. and access thereto |
- 256 |
|
Trade, etc.. Statistics, Port Durban |
10 |
|
Traffic Hotel (Drummond) |
- 46 |
|
Trains, etc.. Point, Durban |
• 273 |
|
Transvaal, The - |
149-150 |
|
Climate |
- 150 |
|
Districts |
- 149 |
|
Future |
- 150 |
|
Johannesburg |
{see J.) |
|
Physical Features |
- 149 |
|
Situation |
- 149 |
|
Pretoria |
{see P.) |
|
Trappist Monastery |
41.42 |
|
Trenches at Colenso, etc. |
80, 94 |
|
Trichardt's Drift - |
- IJ5 |
|
Troops, etc., through Durban |
10, 288 |
|
Trout Ova |
- 272 |
|
Tugela, Lower |
- 168 |
|
Tugela River, Colenso |
87, 90-97 |
|
„ „ Source of, etc. |
- 229 |
|
Tugela, Upper |
103, 256 |
|
Tugs and Lighters, Port Durban |
10 |
|
Tweedie Hall |
- 69 |
Ta
ABAMHLOPE Mountain - - 84
Table Mountain - - 48, 55
Tables, Meteorological - - - 250
Statistical - - - [see S.)
Talana. Battle of ... 126
Talana (Coalfields) - - - 123
„ Hills - - . - 123
Tea District, The - - - - 166
Production of - - - 269
Telegraph and Postal Systems - 265
u.
F ISO MHO -
Ulundi
Umbilo Ri\er Falls L'mbogintwini (S.P.) - Umbulwana Umbulwana Mountain Umfolozi
., River Umgababa (S.P.)
■ '72
35-40
40
- iSo
• lOI
loi, 109
- 172
- '73
- 184
299
|
INDEX- |
— coinmiK'i.i |
|||
|
PAGE |
PAGE |
|||
|
Umgeni UiTifjcni Kivcr and I'alls, Ilowick |
■ 135 67 |
Wagon Hill |
- 101 |
|
|
UmKunKiiiihlovu | l'ii.ttiiiiarit/l)ur ,t; |
51 |
.. Battle ■ |
■ I 1 2 |
|
|
Unihlala/i Kivcr |
■ '7J |
Koad and Bridge, Colenso |
■ 94 |
|
|
Uiiihlali Villa},'e (S.l'.) |
I(,j |
VValker's Hock (S.P.I |
• 2 1,5 |
|
|
L'nililanf;a Kiver |
■ i5» |
War, Cause of the |
■ '2.i |
|
|
L"iiihlatii/an Kivcr |
37. >7« |
Wah Distkut, Desckiition oi- Tin |
||
|
L'mhloti Kivcr |
- 159 |
80 cl St-I/. |
||
|
L'mlilunf;wa (S.l'.) |
- KJ2 |
War District, Introduction to - |
- 79 |
|
|
rmlioluinba Mountain |
- 82 |
Ili/r t), strict . Miif> ,1/ ■ I'ockct li |
ick Cover |
|
|
Umkomaas, Lower |
- 1S4 |
War, Harrismith and the |
■ 2ig |
|
|
I'liiUonianzi (I'inlvomaas) River |
I.S4, 229 |
,, Natal Railways and the - |
- 287 |
|
|
L'mlaas Kivcr and I'alls |
,47. '79 |
Port Trafiic during the |
10 |
|
|
Umlaas Road |
- 4« |
Waschbank |
• I 21 |
|
|
L'mlala/i |
172 |
Watci works, Pinetown Bridge - |
- 3« |
|
|
L'nipanilianyoni Kivcr |
■ 1 88 |
Wattle Production |
- 2<>9 |
|
|
Uinsiudusi |
50 |
Weenen |
82, 256 |
|
|
L'liisindusi Ki\cr Falls |
- 64 |
Wentworth (S.P.I |
■ 178 |
|
|
L"nisinf;a (ioidliclds - |
• 212 |
Wessel's Nek |
' 121 |
|
|
L'nitanuuna Kivcr |
■ 19S |
Weston |
73. 256 |
|
|
L'nitcntwcni (S.l'.) |
- 192 |
Wests iBluff-sidel |
5. I7« |
|
|
Umtwaluini |
■ 192 |
Wliarlaj;c, Port Durban |
■ 9, 12 |
|
|
Unitwalunii Kivcr |
192 |
Widcnliam (S.P.I |
■ 188 |
|
|
Umvoti Kivcr |
- 208 |
Wilgefontein |
■ 221 |
|
|
(S.l'.) |
■ Km |
Wilj;c Kivcr |
■ 217 |
|
|
Thorns |
21 1 |
Willow Grange |
• 81 |
|
|
Uniyala/i Kivcr |
- '7J |
Willow (irange Fight |
81 |
|
|
UmzimUulu Settlement |
- 205 |
Winkle Spruit (S.P.I - |
- iSj |
|
|
Kiver - |
196, 229 |
Winter's Kloof |
■ '^5 |
|
|
Umzinto Hr.^nch, The |
iSg ct scij. |
Witwatcrsrand [sec Johannesburg) |
- 144 |
|
|
Umzinto Kivcr |
■ 189 |
Witxie's 1 lock |
- 2l8 |
|
|
Umzinto Village |
■ 191 |
Wool, Export of |
- 269 |
|
|
L'nizinyati Kivcr and Falls |
- 162 |
Works, F'actories, etc. |
- 268 |
|
|
Umzumbi |
• 192 |
Workshops, Railway |
- 284 |
|
|
Upper Tujiela I'ost Cart |
loj. 256 |
Works, Public |
- 2f)6 |
|
|
UsEFUI. InFOUXJ.VTIO.N l-OK ICmigkants - 27J |
Wyebank |
42 |
||
|
1 OKK |
207, 256 |
|||
|
V AAi, Kraiitz |
■ "7 |
Vulc's Column, Retreat of |
106, 127 |
|
|
Kiver N'alley of Tufjela. Colenso |
- 14" 97' 99 |
Zil'LllLANI) : |
||
|
\'alue of Cargo, Port Durban - |
10 |
Area - |
- 172 |
|
|
(loods li.xported |
10 |
Cultivations |
■ 173 |
|
|
Van Reenen |
- -^'.i |
Districts |
■ 172 |
|
|
\'an Reenen Pass |
- 215 |
Eshowe |
■ 170 |
|
|
.. Wyk's Hill |
- 132 |
Fort Itala |
• 172 |
|
|
\'ej;etal>les - |
- 2J7 |
(loldtields |
124. 172 |
|
|
Verulam |
- 159 |
HIabisa |
■ '72 |
|
|
N'essels and the Bar. Port Durban |
- J II |
Melmoth |
■ 172 |
|
|
,, Kntered at |
lO |
Members of Parliament - |
• 172 |
|
|
N'cterinary Department |
- 271 |
Mount Prospect ■ |
• 172 |
|
|
X'ittoria ICsplanade - |
5 |
Native Education |
- 172 |
|
|
Victoria Road |
■ 206 |
Population |
■ '72 |
|
|
Village (Tongaat) |
■ 162 |
Rivers |
■ 173 |
|
|
"Viljoensdorp" |
■ 131 |
Roads |
■ 172 |
|
|
Village of Colenso |
88 |
St. Lucia Bay |
■ 173 |
|
|
Villages, Towns, Counties, etc. |
- 256 |
Townships |
- 172 |
|
|
Volksrust |
■ 139 |
llundi |
■ 172 |
|
|
Volunteers ■ |
- 263 |
\'illages |
- 172 |
|
|
\ryhcid |
- 124 |
Zwaartkop |
• 64 |
|
|
\'kviii;ii) Bkancii Line, The |
122 ct stiy. |
/waartkop Hill |
115, 117 |
300
X^ 1^043
Itr^^B LlGRARt
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