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A eer ras iw qe ~ — . ane a! q , wee, Ter PA) Wycec: » ¢@ ‘wp ar » ¥ ta. Wevpyer “ty yi ~ Fie NO Toney, we Wg. MAL el Vie PU. OW Nh | se al ol rhe ee ook I ‘ vit ~~ Ps na FF ee ¥ iI Ny Mit: Lain MU UL - seeree PL # y spmrerrante scenes Ue Ny aR ~ a Ae, wan M saevT ge || s oe = pave she | wd im merlin wee irrereis ana Je eer THE veut UH i aA Al aid TN @ ‘wo aN ‘ ~ wr OND aye TT eat Vaya WUC UC SS ante See en Ure TT RAT TARA eG PAA TAY S yt Yooet hl che “lew ley r eeaPae wee yadcc TLL) etathitcanennt ata |S vie { if 4 9 Df c a > 3. Vit °* Oy wien, way. “~@ 7 ae Ty, -@ V6 . ty | & ‘ a SE 4) eo ”* “wy i}! oye. eas y ty T ~? | ian re Tp Tee 1 UY yy Viti ~ y Yy aay [ 7 ihn, ve . Aubrey vent WAS a ol i "Ty me 6" ht \. a3 TT % ~ aa OS anath Ty canmpeee eae s Ad bbe - : wie 7 ' Sm -. CECT E: ie a . it a b +! } | aiToe “9 iM! es alt) LU OTT nem nery TTT TTT Thai ie, wt Wy v i » ~\ Vi. fj } Se ed ‘ qhee { ss = muslin horas MUN A am Niseeeoaert bh tT] (i eS elas utetiad gaa teae fin ok Tawa AAP EPMA I . ; aan rt , I . ’ * "> at 1, > ’ é t « wy . . = = Sonny td Ve Le te ee 4 me par sop 7. ho viet beteblipy By , be cidieo® «App glands SL +h ites a piss ry? an ‘ie H hy i4 a $5. ) RL LE CI oo Cay ws ‘ 9) => Wy fp ANY i THE NATIO GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 2h Js) 2 VOL ” > 3 ) re Ps) , ) >) ) a) ,oo 5 5995399 35 ) ti © 355 ) Heinen is js an July to December, 1922 VOLUME XLII PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL WASHINGTON, D.C. ao ly 1 \) NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY GEOGRAPHIC ADMINISTRATION BUILDINGS SIXTEENTH AND M STREETS NORTHWEST, WASHINGTON, D. C. HENRY WHITE, Vice-President O. P. AUSTIN, Secretary GEO. W. HUTCHISON, Associate Secretary EDWIN P. GROSVENOR, General Counsel Chairman Committee on Research GILBERT GROSVENOR, President JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE, Vice-President JOHN JOY EDSON, Treasurer BOYD TAYLOR, Assistant Treasurer FREDERICK V. COVILLE, STAFF OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE GILBERT GROSVENOR, EDITOR JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE, Associate Editor WILLIAM J. SHOWALTER RALPH A. GRAVES FRANKLIN L. FISHES a Assistant Editor Assistant Editor Chief of Illustrations Division J. R. HILDEBRAND, Chief of School Service EXECUTIVE §$ BOARD OF TRUSTEES CHARLES J. BELL President American Security and Trust Company JOHN JOY EDSON Chairman of the Board, Wash- ington Loan & Trust Semoniy ose < Military DAVID« FAIRCHILD ene wien In Chafgee Jf Agricultural Ext ploratiéns, U. S. Department of Agriculture a8 oi € © 6 ene ie. servatory eccece © € C. HART MERRIAM ¢ 5 nee «£££ GRD ERICK Ve COVILEER U. S. Department of prea cul Lae “RUDOLPH KAUFFMANN . Managing Editor The Evening Member WNationaiAcddeniy‘ ‘of ‘ Sciences OP. AUSTIN: .<* c Statisticians: « uke Eee GEORGE R. PUTNAM Star Commissioner U. S. Bureau of Lighthouses GEORGE SHIRAS, 3p Formerly Member U. S. Con- gress, Faunal Naturalist, and Wild-game Photographer of E. LESTER JONES Director U. S. Coast and Geo- detic Survey Census WILLIAM HOWARD TAFT Chief Justice of the United States GRANT SQUIRES Intelligence General Staff, New York CG M. GHESTER € ee «Admiral U. meély Supt. U. S. T. L. MACDONALD NID Pare eAN CaS: SN, DA NORDE Formerly Director U. S. Bureau ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL Inventor of the telephone Died August 2, 1922 J. HOWARD GORE Prof. Emeritus Mathematics, The George Washington University A. W. GREELY Arctic Explorer, LO) Army GILBERT GROSVENOR Editor of National Geographic Magazine GEORGE OTIS SMITH Director, U. S. Geological Survey O. H. TITTMANN Formerly Superintendent U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey HENRY WHITE Member American Peace Com- mission, Formerly U. S. Am- bassador to France, Italy, ete. STEPHEN T. MATHER Director National Park Service Division, S. Navy, For- Naval Ob- Major General JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE Associate Editor National Geo- graphic Magazine ORGANIZED FOR “THE INCREASE AND DIFFUSION OF GEOGRAPHIC KNOWLEDGE” TO carry out the purposes for which it was founded thirty-four years ago, the Na- tional Geographic Society publishes this Magazine. All receipts are invested in the Magazine itself or ex- pended directly to promote geographic knowledge. ARTICLES and photographs are desired. For material which the Magazine can use, generous remuneration is made. Contributions should be accompanied by an addressed return envelope and postage. IMMEDIATELY after the terrific eruption of the world’s largest crater, Mt. Katmai, in Alaska, a National Geographic Society expedition was sent to make observations of this remarkablesphenom- enon. Four expeditions have followed and the extra- ordinary scientific data resultant given to the world. In this vicinity an eighth wonder of the world was discovered and explored—‘“‘The Valley of Ten Thou- sand Smokes,” a vast area of steaming, spouting fissures. As a result of The Society’s discoveries this area has been created a National Monument by proc- lamation of the President of the United States. AT an expense of over $50,000 The Society sent a notable series of expeditions into Peru to investigate the traces of the Inca race. Their discoveries form a large share of our knowledge of a civilization which was waning when Pizarro first set foot in Peru. THE Society also had the honor of sub- scribing a substantial sum to the historic expedition of Admiral Peary, who discovered the North Pole. NOT long ago The Society granted $25,000, and in addition $75,000 was given by in- dividual members through The Society to the Federal Government when the congressional appropriation for the purchase was insufficient, and the finest of the giant sequoia trees of California were thereby saved for the American people and incorporated into a National Park. THE Society is conducting extensive ex- plorations and excavations in northwestern New Mexico, which was one of the most densely populated areas in North America before Columbus came, a region where prehistoric peoples lived in vast communal dwellings whose ruins are ranked second to none of ancient times in point of architecture, and whose customs, ceremonies and name have been engulfed in an oblivion more complete than any other people who left traces comparable to theirs. Copyright, 1923, by National Geographic Society, Washington, D. C. All rights reserved. CONTENTS Page Adventuring Down the West Coast of Mexico. By HeErperr Corky____.___- eee res ie 449 Minican ocenes trom the Equator to the Cape. Insert, 16 illustrations-_.-+--~___________ 431 Peery Grialiatn, Clee me a ae ca Se NE ore LU eee ee 302 Along the Nile, Through Egypt and the Sudan. By Freprrick SIMPICH________________ 379 Arctic as an Air Route of the Future, The. By VinHyaLMuUR STEFANSSON___-_--______ 205 Camargue, the Cowboy Country of Southern France. By Dr. ANDRE. VIALLES___-_----___- I Sarncerals or the Old and New World. By J. BERNARD WALKER 5025) > 22 2) 61 Beatmavciana the Danes. oy. MAURICE HRANCIS, GANG]. 2-2 92 eee ee ts Emeatecne | Limber-Line= Lhe’ By Jorn Oniver Ila Gorepsii 222 wis 2 ee 165 atom hat Was Greece, Ihe By ALEXANDER WiILBOURNE WEDDELL2_2--22222_ 22-2 571 Pancdroriie ree in Airica, Phe. (Liberia) By Harry A. McBripke i! 222-22) 2). AIT igsbou, the City of the Friendly Bay. By Crirrorp ALBION TINKER 2 —222. 2225-22 _- 505 Longitudinal Journey Through Chile, A. By Harrier CHALMERS ADAMS___--____--_--_- 219 Map-Changing Medicine. By WiLLiam JoSEPH SHOWALTER__----~_~---_..-_-2.- es aes 303 Midcmmmct wv tld tt lowers). By: the. EpitoR 22 22226689 eps ee ae eae 25 Reppies aie laces or Northern Africa, “Insert, 16 wlustrations: -_22222-2-. = 363 Picturesque Side of Japanese Life, The. Color insert. XVI plates._.__.___________ Peds C8282 Poermucal, the Mand oi Henry the Navigator. Color msert. XVI plates__.._-__--.-..=-<_ 516 Sailing the Seven Seas in the Interest of Science: Adventures Through 157,000 Miles of Storm and Calm, from Arctic to Antarctic and Around the World,.in the Non-magnetic Rieke Carncuie tly ek eA 2 ooh oes ee ee el eee Se oo ee 631 Sketch of the Geographical History of Asia Minor, A. By Srr Witiiam Ramsay, D.C. L., Bagel) ms le SE a A ive be ee AS RTA ee DS a ah bs eee El a a 553 Seite byes wailap: Of ita. uinitesis ketene tote Loeb De aro tad ee ate 4A7 Bec REGeNewiNapcOr shes VW Obl) = ult@ei. 2se Ya eet. es ee ey ee al ee 690 BeMerwspectsion kural Japa» By gVVALTER: VWESTONG: eat oes ae ene oe eS 275 Transporting a Navy Through the Jungles of Africa in War Time. By Frank J. MacEs, Views of the Lincoln Memorial in Washington. Insert. 8 illustrations__________-.----- 197 2 - " hoa iz - vi Lon Hi ot mg et ; 4 a 4 ae Py ec he ab - eal. “f, a ~~ | ; ye i : ri 1D: Rls es ee Perey bh . Fa ‘ *S 7 > ‘ F ] PRESS OF JUDD & DETWEILER, INC. ; ait WASHINGTON, D. C. ~u TO23) ; i a; t 3 2 INDEX FOR VOL. XLII (Jury-Decemser), 1922 AN ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED INDEX. ENTRIES IN CAPITALS REFER TO ARTICLES AND INSERTS Page P 66 A 99 age A i umice Fuad, declared King of Egypt, 1922..... ae 7 me se enriaek cheb conhe: ay eperertuatgs che let «chorale neaseerees 130 aon Bh, Mite 9 on ey Vie ages 206 ERGIICS SEHD OMIM AT Cy5.31 <0 xo vic eo ers es ats eie a wicca joel fok Toys TO dal upalacel. 1: sop Phen Neen — Abbas Hilmi, Egypt’s reigning khedive (1914). 387 LS eae ELLE gp OPED it aS (item MIN AGES, CAILO) > 1. 0 ses ois ill. 385 Abruzzi, Duke of the, African mountains ascended Alacaluf Indians: Tierra del Fuego... bys, aL Ze mee ae (Bishe Ay VAIO GOOG TG (text) 184, 4345 i 436 Alameda Das Fontainhas, Oporto, Portugal’s finest Ree Cee tel ope: = geen ee’ Sn000 ote - IIQ VAC WA ERO reece (color insert) Plate IV, 516-533 [sr ee . noe Spe So ASN! aL ae Alameda, Flower-sellers of the: Santiago, Chile. . Abyssinia: Coronation scenes............ ill. 376, 378 «AT A : ill. 251 : eae schbuna” Moo rishi) marte’rr cis eveyeiere tie oi ete s 16 Pe a SL Set aia red meaty Sa 406-407, 308 las ames COELOMei ers trelechs aver tels iefece cts «5, sisye Gro) eee a: 650 ill. ay y Parke Sac ac ebe TATA eis = toast A a ing ST oe Alaska, Fort Yukon: ‘Temperature oBeeed eet heneeece ctor 21 NCA pltl COP NTEXACOleis os cre © mere sietouete scl oveueusic sibee oe ome 458 ise S : 3 ge Coast a GLEeCe gfe cheney Spaletis sve levnns a inteieee 627 Mibaas ener litetene re see 043, 645, eae ALG, ISPR COS Nee aipecees Cees Cee rete teem tees arte 223 » IN LByPt. - 363, 307 Aconcagua, Mount: Argentina.......... et aes 243 Tepes TRC Teeee AIM Oe can) ene 623 Keoncacua Valley; Chiles i... ces‘ oi6s ole 239, ill. 256 batrosses: Antarctic Regions... .273, poe eee ey Acrocerinth, Rock of: Athens...........<... ; ; ar. : SD eee Reccolis, BReeel oe eon! coe. 577, 582 ae Ses Alberti, Minister of Justice: Denmark......... Seis 4 3 ' Albertville, Belgian Congo........... Rapetecevesate eters WL Goa, Betsy Bea & 347 Adams, Clifton, Staff Photographer: Southern Albuquerque, Affonso d’: Portugal.............. 551 WEST COMES esos Sips teats © cara PeeURT oO attotnlon thers leeyeteverers ; Alcantara district, Lisbon.......... 514, 535, 540, 550 peer H arrict Chalmers. A Longitudinal Jour- conor: Pera raised price of............... 123 meveebarowel (Chiles. sesrs.cs.s,6s 0600 sie doen ooi0 Zhao), | ee OOS. LRA OID ON GOT Oe OOo OG ra HO Ze: Adams, Mount:. Washington. ..... 006060040 ill. 178 Alerce” pines: Chile..........eeeeee eee eens 257 Adana, Asia Minor: Sarl cars COttouepiesescs ill. bee Aleutian Islands, Attu Island westernmost of.. 643, Adansonia digitata (giant baobabs): Egypt...... 407 ill. 643 Addis Ababa, Abyssinia, Imperial Guards ine. nile 376 Alexander the Great eivehefoienene els [aeliele!e\lsielele) sie isi/sh=lia 383, 625 PROBE SHAESS ATEXICOR,.,s1eheloieielel sie 2120", 3/0 6 453; 458, 493 Alexandria, Egypt.......- 388, 392, 393, 4or, ill. 304 Adriatic Sea, Greek colonies around the.......... 560 Alexandrine, Queen of Denmark............. ill. 122 Adventurers, Spanish: Mexico Ea A AP BAP dp 453, 473 Alfalfa. eee e esses ree tte ee eee eee e ee 236, 249, 485 ADVENTURING DOWN THE WEST COAST . eee eee settee teen ee ees $33, 547, 550 MEXICO. BY HERBERT COREY...... 449 garobas: i ae eee ae eer i el te gosagoodescdasce 23 Advertising posters, Japanese...... (color insert) ee. ecrnes wee eee cere eae ill. 364, 366, 367, 369 Plate XV, 282-2 isubbo, Cnician! Namenc. sae cece cere cts 510 ZEgean Sea and Islands: Map..........seeeeees zen All Saints Lake, Chile (Todos los Santos)...... 259 7Egean Sea named for King Aégeus............. 591 Allenby (Gen. E. H. H.) with the British Army in seers. mame: (Greek Leger Ga ds ..mn semen 570 Air zolis,, \Greeceiic:ars cine v o's nielelels's aie’oyielerabaie 625, ill. 609 Argostoli, Gulf jof: Greece. 5: .. io «sels screen ill. 587 Ariadne, | Wegend Of: 0666060002000 500s cele 591 Arica’ (Racnay province))c. +=) «2 e's! lsielelateie kena 221 Arispe:! “MexiCOsie.c ci eccrs1s els ici «0 «> 0 voneneemene 449, 452 Aristides’ (Greek statesman) .....- => + else unineme 571 Aristocracy, Denmark’s landowning.......... 157, TOL Aristophanes: (Greek: poet)... .-..- se sie ele 582 Arithmetic Class, Cairo’s Elementary School..ill. 375 Arkansas, Anti-malaria campaign in......... 310, 321 Airless Eran Ceajars sekelelarer telus alelsiere icine I, 22, 25, 30-31% Arlesian women are noted beauties...... 30, alll 165006 Armada of ‘Spain;’ Invincible: -+...... em ieee SI Armenians: “Hey pti «. 20 «> «01s seiejeiase eee 401 Army, Chile’s: Estimated strength......... (text) 255 Army, Mexican... .i. 0). 0. «0c ss csiate ohn oteleinenenanen 480 Art and artists: Denmark. .:... 0... «0. 163, 164, ileaas Art, Decoratives Japan... 1 1-1 ar (color insert) Plates I, X, 282-299 Arte (Greeleiiccrs erie eie- 560, 562, 582, 591, ill. 576-578, 580, 581, 586, 592, 595-597 Art, Museum of peasant: France..........+...31-32 Art Museum: Santiago, Chile................ ill, 252 Artemis, ‘Temple of: Athens... .. 52). sccteseiclsme ill. 584 IATEISES,) ANIME TCA al afol el iojeieer elo) ele eiatetcl iol oiemane (text) 201 Artists) ‘Tomtati. =. scvoikape ove ace rar eliaknceieueniens tose teeaborents 387 © THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Page Brusa, Asia Minors: Silk loftse...... cc. oeeeee ill. 561 Brush jacals: Mexico. . i. «<< «> ewcrleaie eine 493 Bubonic plague: Dakar, Africa... .......snsnseen 665 Bucks:. Africa, «Central ¢sic.ccs sive e's sas ste ill. 343 Buckwheat Family (Sheep Sorrel)...... 36 (color insert) Plate II, 36-53 Buddhist festival: Ceylon .<.:<+.«. slslsels eee ill. 676 Buddhist Mass: Japan.. (color insert) Plate II, 282-299 Buenos Aires, Argentina..........» 241, 634, 666, 667 Buenos Ajres, Lake, Chile.......:050sssniee see 261 Buenos Aires, to South Georgia steamer service.. 647 Buffalo: Epgyptiss. sicis'ccisisictetere cin vie so ene 408, ill. 399 Building construction, China interested in..... a RL Buildings, Ecclesiastical: Cathedrals of the Ol and New World. By J. Bernard Walker...... 61 Bukama, Belgian Congo. 23... «« «cscs decile 343 Bulghar Maden, Asia Minor: Silver mines....... 570 BulliimingyWisbonltaicteeistelets ill. 539 (color insert) Plate V, 516-533 Bullfighting, Baseball conquering: Mexico.. (text) 456 Bullfights: Camargue...23-25, 28-29, ill. 7, 20, 21, 249 Bullocks, Ceremony for souls of departed: Japan.. 301 Burgos Cathedral:| Spainie....: ssi. e eae 114, ills 93 Burial customs: Ancient Greece..........e.. 597, 602 Burial, German soldiers given British naval honors ati, CAE riCal sei syese bvei are miele eee Staus ee Oe 358, ill. 355 Burro meat? MexX1COc!s.0.0 0.20 oss + tale.ni0 » ol ae 475 Burros: MexicOisiles s\eerelets ateisioteters ia cletwentnene 482, ill. 479 Bish, African cision teleuciele ols. oseieve lave 332, 335, ill. 337-340 342-358, 360, 430 Business. firms, American: Ceylon........s0....- 670 Bustard: Egyptian sudd ‘swamps... os ..n eee 408 Butter; Danish’. 2... 00's: sa > oot erate. ae TOr Button Snakeroot. (Blazing Star)...... 55 (color insert) Plate VII, 36-53 Bazi utribes: Atnicats co.cc islet creh cee 430, ill. 424 Buzzards:> Mexico erases: 485, 487, 499, ill. 474 Byron, in) Athens (G@8irn))..\.... - ne 582, 602, 610, 620 SS G22 Cables, Constructing: African bush.......... 337, 341 Cactus“ Mexicojiick «ctemiaie cies take. ee teenene 458, 469, 485 Caesar Salis... Siete cl wloyehe se -atave a, a evecercrosn elon reer 557, 625 Café, Cairo’s outdoor: Story-tellers’ Club......ill. 381 Café life; Copenhagen’. . << s.<..0. 6. srs eter sia 115 Cairo, ‘€ape-to-:, Railway. .... <<. sailors eee eae 383, 388 (Chiro, IBEAADEG Go pcoouaamoooC 403, ill. 370, 374, 380-387 Cairo to Jerusalem, ‘The Milk and Honey Ex- PRESS2 ENO, . .0s-iprte a se sree eheretereehs 379, 388-389, 392 Cajeme’s Mex1C Ojaic0isrnere: 0) 0: ousliovelore.che) crencuerer ene 481, 485 Cakeselllers:! .@hile. wad oe oensaemele seen ill. 242 Calcada da Gloria, Lisbon Portugal: Garden scene ill, 512 Caldera. (Chile i. 's.5 stesesce}e) os) laye o Brale aie eon 227, 235 California, gold! rush) ’4o.... 4.24. ns ee eee 226 California, (Gulf lof sh. sins der seeerereteee 453, 459, 460 California ‘quail Chilews..).c1- sonic ere 258 California, Timber-line scenes in. .ill. 167, 177, 182, 187 Calycanthus Family. (Sweet Shrub)....... 56-57 (color insert) Plate X, 36-53 CAMARGUE, THE COWBOY COUNTRY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE. BY DR. ANDRE VIALLES wieiai'e. aie) 6) sie) ogee: o/s" afete%el g/e'so: ape stoke ate ne tone I Cameleers, Bedouin....... seve eeswecen de ill. 366, 367 Gamielsi Africare stare 398, ill. 365-367, 383, 380, 396, ; 399, 404, 406 Camels, British Army in Palestine used 30,000.... 393 Camels: Smyrna, Caravan khan in:s........-. ~ sill. Ss Camoens (Portuguese) poet) ac creie ole relicheheee crated s+ 552 Camp Deserts eA cerialriacoteve ciereie so clectornebenenenonens ill. 367 Camp: Naval Africa Expedition, 1915......... ill. 332 Camp, Sugar-cane: Egypt....... or bisiehovonavee reaver ill. 396 Campanile: “Florence, ‘Wtaly.jo. 2. cm. = sielaie 114, ill. 108 Campanile, Venice’s new: Italy >.< 3.0m ill. 107 Campanos: Portigaliicte oa cre « wlenatelnlateraintee enema ill. 539 Campo Pequeno, Lisbon, Portugal............ ill. 539 Canada, Fur-trading outposts of Arctic.......... 217 Canada; ‘Medical Schools ini... <1). «ste cor siereeeeene 328 Canada to Russia, Air routes from...) sie s+ 217 Ganal) Corinth) [sthmatatacie nase.) <1) eure 623, ill. 590 Canal, Peninsula of Taitao, Chile (Proposed).... 261 CanallsSuezeeeicieler: -+++379, 387, 3809, ill. 388, 390, 392 Candies; Cathedtalierc cen ocieictsistet nee ill. 65, 68, 87 Candles) LobeliasiAinicarnye i reieiiolilenteneereler ere 11 435 Candles, Restaurant: Mexico................ 459, 460 Candy, Mexican (Panocha. =. eee 491, ill. 480 Canecas, Portugal’s water casks are called.....ill. (color insert) Plate II, 516-533 Cannibalism, Belgian Congo natives addicted to.. 358 Canning plant: Chilean Huego. 22). e eee 272 INDEX FOR VOLUME, XIII, 1922 Ix Page Canoe Indians, Alacalufs: Tierra del Fuego..... 2733, 1 269 Canoes Orherian: Slit’. ath «20s ace s eainetecs ate iors, tau ill. 208 Canoes) African’ mative... ssiericie.-- ill; 358; 360, 415 Canopy, Coronation Chair: Westminster Abbey.ill. 70 CansyAnrerican’ tins MiexicOm ena. ceo tee ill. 454, 463 Canterbury Cathedral: England....... nig fhe, TNE (65 Canterbuny lain, New, Zealandince. ce ele eel 645 Canyon, North Cheyenne, Colorado........... ill. 186 Camyom, leklbim, (Celbbionivkis oaoonoacpandoondde’ TID, - sete Cape-Cairo-Calcutta route, A possible............ 383 Cape Colony founded by the Dutch, 1652...(text) 446 Caneriespichels -Portugale aw. ccce otto ere neice bese 510 anew atteras, (North) Carolina)s.4 2.2405 0e6 641, 689 Came kiana, Wildtalibis ce.o 6 co noamoooooas 689, ill. 688 @ape ‘Horn, (Garnecie Offoss ace css ce 0 ces bee 647, 665 Cape Horn, Fromm [sland@1Chiles sn, Woe: 273 Canemlcemwine eNUsStralian camera cerca cicnacra tine 675 Capes VWotunt, eWibeniac seacs + ces Sits craps cave Ne ee ars 415 Cape of Good Hope, Africa..669, ill. 442-444, 446, 673 CapesealmassWwiberianasceece en oem Orne: 423, 666 (CANS OS {DNR aT Ciet de cee teenaganaey icine Io aiic capri Sees renee 651, 689 Capen tlatsee Chiles eos ie tesa he eres aie euestpale See SS 262 CanemRasommlontu galls. vaoccienteeic ce ets «scree cle GOS, SEZ Cane= Roeay Portugal. ora. ck fine se ob deta bie ees 505 Cape-to- Cairo railway RIC Be AIO NG cot or REORERA i eT Oe 383, 388 Gape own, Africa... ci. 669, ill. 443, 444, 671, 672 Cape Wierdewlslandee: sas een tains Tot 505, 665 Capitals TMeelandisi: Reykjavik. ao. osseenee os - 639, 641 Capitol Building, Santiago, Chile... «2.324.206. 6% ill. 247 @appadocia CAsia Minor) .:2.-.:... 553, 563, 564, 565 Car, Mule-drawn: Chile, nitrate field.......... ill, 228 Caracas (Vierieziselay sata crete ariie soe tc ae eee aun ages 242 aan ane IMATSD SIN YGMA se oo 4 eos: «ai cieye Bleerc ess 5i'n ill. 558 Caravan, Native carriers’: Africa....335, ill. 360, 420 Carre, (Caimgle Jia oooccoacsocu0oD ill. 366, 406 Cancavel loser Port Calla cresexectrsnris cudsicve or Oi elsieuers 515 Cardinal flower, Lobelia candles a close relative i ill. 435 Gancadoress) IMIExIC OM. tistics cen ee.) on eae smoke ein elaee 460 Cargo-boat, Twin-sail: Portugal....(color insert) Plate VII, 516-533 Cariioprince;. Matisolusiiiere.t.o0.0.05. 6c < en tee ee 563 Carnegie Institution of Washington............. 631 Carnegie, Non-magnetic yacht: Sailing the Seven Seas in the Interest of Science. By J. P. Ault. 631 Carneste GShip)) «route Mapes. cee sess 5 a ole 2 ars 634 SA GhATIZAT Tee NIEKI COt ya careiete ere Cee. 6 oa ccogeievstnnns 474 Caro lectriczpeltal ys Mialanine sites sss shaicre scion Aeros Eat CY LOT Mire Me hc nee sattione wudieyeoais oe 4 be Obs ill. 314 Cart, -Fishmonger’s: Copenhagen... 263 0.6% «a ill. 141 CA PaO xa Hilo ta ae ei aicio eo sie ke ones ill. 261. CactseeDyewood': Mextea. asc. ies, ote Sagauhe cis ae ill. 483 Carvings, Cathedral...... Wl G5. 66, 69-71,482, 635. o5< B75. 89392, 194, 1955098599, LOl 103 105.0112 Ganvinios, Stone: Cortical sc, ..6c sc. aa Ser, all: 540 Caryatids—Porch of the Maidens: Greece........ 593 Sascadem Lakes Califormid.as ois. sa cavececstve iets ill, 177. Cascaes, Portugal reas ay ose teeta et eel SyLice ares rey acetates 508 Casket of Columbus, Reputed: Sean nse easton uces ill. 92 Gasks=aWiaten:) lontugaleccae crn: (color insert) Plate II, 516-533 Castalian sprite; Greece... n.-- 616 Cerameicus, Cemetery of the: Athens........597, 602, ill. 577, 578 Cereal beltsiprces tok vessel ssere Sheet a oot Sete e cho oem Fe Zing ee Getigos MslandyOticlrors 2e5 ae sce se siceeroe ene oops 571 Cévennes, France, Alpine pastures of the........ 196 Geylonmnee eee nat 669-671, ill. 313-315, 675, 676 Chair, England’s Coronation: Westminster DEY leo Chairs, Marble: Theater of Dionysus, Greece. .ill. 597 Chamber of Commerce, Lisbon........... ocd - 516 Champs Elysées, Lisbon’s: Avenida da Liberdade 541, 545 Chapel, Henry VII’s: Westminster Abbey...... ill. 69 Chapels MGreece sy sce see cai ele adie e Bae 623, ill. 594 Chapelsee Rortugalls ccs peas crores See oh ceils ete 514, 550 Characteristics’: Hoy ptians racialer mtr. 393, 395 Chareoaleburniers; |) Niexicom...- sere) «ssa cee ill. 481 Charlock or Field Mustard (Brassica arvensis) 57 (color insert) Plate XI, 36-53 @Gharror = WMexiComma se cine ans tence od aie Seeks tae ce ill. 450 ChartresmCathedraley nance emeeeieeon iene: ill. 89 Chateau at Nyborg, Island of Fiinen.......... ill. 159 CGhateaum (Camarouetrnis sons ecneee on eee ill. 30 Chautauquas, Denmark’s high schools models for Ulla) or soap ch somata ehaanle abet chee oe eae ero eee gs mh comet 143, 144 Chateanbnande@aiscount) sper eee aici 575, 620 Chengtu, China: Physicians’ testimonials...... ill. 323 Chenopodium, Hookworm disease treated with.... 307 Cherry blossom trees........ ill. 204 (color insert) Plate XIV, 282-299 Cheyenne Canyon, Colorado (North).......... ill. 186 Chiado,; “Wisbon’s Mitth Avenues... «.--o-- soe 540 Chiapas, *@State)), oNiexicosa.camausier ee one 453, 493 Chickens exchanged for soap; Easter Island...... 654 Chickenses Wliexicomeioe. ce cence ca ok ill. 451, 470 Chickens, Portuguese woman carrying a basket of (color insert) Plate XVI, 516-533 Chief, Imperialt Guards, Abyssinia.......2-.+: ill. 376 Chiefs, INE RICA TIME tI Da lever getteceaiere ener Lar casrgnci se Crees 336 Child, Araucanian Mother and: Chile......... ill. 262 Cinidp laborers ovipts.cttcise ic oe clos cs eer 395 Children: Africa, North........ ill, 345,364; 360, 3715 75, 386, 391, 400 Children: Camargue, France........ : Os oe ee Childrens sDenmarlaaaeeee eee ee il neh tS y7e 26O Children: italy Rom Cesare ary 5 ott ee ill. 100 Chifdren: Japan....... ill. 277, 279 (color insert) Plate VI, 282-299 Children: Mexico........ ill. 471, 476, 478, 482, 4098, 499, 502, 503 Children: Portugal....(color insert) Plates I-III, VIII, XV, 516-533 Childien: Samoan) [clamdseeypieer eee ill. 679 Childsen:, a@Smyenac:,.,. 0. < sce ee oe eee RRS Children: Southern States (mountain whites) ill. 304, 306 Childrens eSopain. Buncosasssa sae ae eee ill. 03 Childrentss Day, (Copenhagens-es ac oe oe eee ill. 128 Chile, A Longitudinal Journey Through. By Har- rose (Chiang MAGES co coggnsoo soa oosdcocouuos 219 Chilewbastenelislandebeloncasmton eee eee 654 Chiles Mian ma(Sketch) eis cy. torre eee 22 Chilese scenes. =<... oe ill. 220, 222, 224-238, 240-242, 244-248, 250-272 Chili sauce, Indians eat: Mexico...... i en a - ee x THE NATIONAL, GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Pace Cini ( CINE. An ot Gane rican don dod doreeaer 243, 248 Chiloe, Island of; ‘Chiles... 2... 219, 241, 259, 261 (Chile, praia (OMOSA SrA aaaoane aan ooo DOn San neee 261 Chilonco) Beleian Congo wens aeis 2c «sl eee ss 335, 343 Chimpanzee, Pet: Naval Africa Expedition. ill. 346, 347 China introduced tea into Japan: 800 A. D...... 301 China, Disease scourges in.............. 309, 327, 329 Chinas Health campaigns) inl... - s+... Wl: 322, 323 China, Japan borrowed agricultural system from.. 276 Chinawvlecdicaliss oar discrete miei ctekereieler sels. viers esl che oles 328 Chinchilla, Andes mountains homes of the....229, 231 Chinese gate: Nikko, Japan........ (color insert) Plate I, 282-299 Chios) Esland Asay Min Ome eee cen ae tice lccleierevee 553 Choirs: Cathed talc cri. <<. 50 01s ill. 65, 68, 71, 75, 80, 87 Chontampalmse jiuan Hernandez. «sc. + cases e+ se 242 Christ of the Andes in the Pass of Uspallata.. a 273, ill. 27% Christchurch New Zealand... 0.065 ces vee c ves oe 677 Ghristianely. of Denmark. 2)... ci //5) lewis ae T26) a7, Christian X, King of Denmark..129, ill. 122, 126, 127 Christian webride of Kabylia, Al... 5... 6.2 cece ill. 363 Christian Church, Parthenon used as a: Athens.. 592 Christian groups, Egypt has three............... 401 Christian: Vapanese: farmenrcs ie ij. os clei oie nee Ga 282 Christian missionary societies: China............ 327 Christian Mothers’ Association: Argentina..(text) 271 Christianity: Asia MaNOn. sci. oi «ss ei siaye ches 560, 567 Christianity, | Decay Ofer oss. 6 sieieisle sarees oes als 164 Christiansborg, Palace of: Copenhagen.......... 137 GhristmasinwDenmatrlces yc cusi-scuencsoks cl cbeyct ousietercuetele eres 161 Christmas, 1915: British soldiers in Africa...... 352 Christmas Day: Tahiti, Carnegie at (1920)...... 677 Ghristmas) dinner: Master, ‘islands cr ole cisiee sie. -120e 663 ChromaumegeAsia, IMnOT ss cielo creeis vee siclersione ele 570 Chueca, national Mapuche ball-game: Chile...... 253 GhurchiibellsisMiexicom scrvercreietes tecclclolic ae eccmercyvolerenie 488 Church, English: Copenhagen................ ill. 142 Church of Bom Jesus do Monte, Fountain shrine On) Ee Ontugallae treet. (color insert) Plate VI, 516-533 Church of St. John the Divine, N: Y......3....: III Churcha Russians: Alaska cenit cieionia ec ill. 643 @hurchess) FMWexico. cncics 6 ers oe eee 453, 488, 499 Churehes:) Portugall.....+... ill, 508, 509, 536, 548-551 Chiurchesye dock) |Cappadociai...0) te watt owicicr eel eiere 563 Churches, Romanesque: Architecture............ III Chrysanthemums: Japan..(color insert) Plate V, 282-299 Cicero (Marcus Tullius): Quoted.......:.... 575, 618 Cidade Baixa, Lisbon..... 533, 534, 535, 540, 541, 547 GilicraeeA Sia MITT O tyetoteieiar a aielnuel bcfiaiel ola ter hovel olotetonerte 559 Cilician Gates, Highway through...........0..... 567 Cimon> Walls built by:"Greece.....4.- sce- see ill. 594 Cinchona trees, Andes Mountains.............0. 192 Cintra Ponte al ates sciaves cuessi cyclen anes s devel sier tact stole oneness 514 Circumnavigating the Antarctic: Carnegie....... 649 Circumnavigation of the globe by way of the At- lanitici~eGArwecievicric sorsi racic ecu Serene 634 Circumnavigation of the globe in sub-Antarctic re- PIGS COLNE LIC ee) oo chs in o:sarsve cue ste eia ela oiaierore 645 Gitacdelh ss CairO\ere orsisrefs ere ke as oho clehova c¥elahe: qetozclonel cad ill. 380 . City Hall Tower and Square, Copenhagen....ill. 117, 120, 128 City of the Friendly Bay, Lisbon (Portugal). Bye Cliitords Albion Winker. <2: -teie a eickels siete eete ete 505 City planning, Lisbon a model of........ 516, 533-534 Clammy Groundcherry (Physalis heterophylla GriEeS) is iene Se stcieve 57 (color insert) Plate XI, 36-53 (Clerrne: (Gail (ig § etaig Mean Ocean RIN Be Pres Aes 261 Claxton) Gre) ee. Se -Ouotedas.8. 2. wesc ee 149 Clay, Henry: ‘American Colonization Society..... “AI7 Cleveland, Miomiat yee Montara -y--1-eeita clei) «lela ill. 189 “Cleverest man in Europe,’’ Queen Louise...... 129 Clit Chariot-like> “Greeces ccs. co01s oie ene ciewe 614 ClimatecwAstay MMOs tis vsleies ocie, ie da avelcls saulot 555 GlirrTa ke sg CH keys cet es erate 150-4 aelve o ois olensokpinnclate detente 224 @himiate sD emma thei g a) aso is sare sco. aeiovse wavealo aioe s 135, 140 Climates aster wisland ys... 2.sc0 6 be ciktee ets atermee 654 Clock of Roland by Johannes Jérgensen.......... 163 CHOGAOR TERS a cits Co Sn Ce eR aan ers ill. 120, 595 Glocker Cathedral sey & oon w cronera nemo one ill. 67, 106 Closed or Bottle Gentian (Gentiana andrewsti (GHISAD)) )ca5ooccar 53 (color insert) Plate IV, 36-53 Clouds Strait of Magellan. .9.s266.s6s. ls cone iI: 267 Clover. fodder, Donkey loaded with: Cairo..... ill. 383 Club, ° American ranchers’: Mexico........... 483, 485 Club, Stomyetellensi:, Gairo psec its)... ten se ill. 381 Coal deposits: Chilean it COOL te nian Bec aoe 273 Coal “mines ander the sea: (Chile... ))...4..;..:. 249 Page Coaling a steamer, Egyptian natives: Port Said ill. 390 Coast, Florida’s palm-fringed: 2:5... 0... « sew" ill. 192 Coat-of-arms, Hapsburg: St. Stephen’s Cth ill. 97 Cobalt: ‘Chiles. i. \sc.c.c.e s aunvelerereis- 6 otnlelo.n soled 233 Cock-bird, Kmu’s eggs are hatched by the.. (text) 653 Cock-fighting: IMGxXiICO;> oc.cslcr > vents \slclcisiet= ieee ill. 470 Cock-fights, Chileans do not care for......... ant a0 Coconut crabs: Fanning Island...........ssseus 677 Coconut-palm trees: Samoan Islands..... 652, ill. 678 Cod Head (Turtle-Head)........ 38 (color insert) Plate XIII, 36-53 Cod-liver oil, Norway exports.............- (text) 635 Codfish-drying racks: Norway.......s-<>s-se" ill. 635 Coffee-growing: Liberia... o.2. «. «>> + ect iene 424 Cotte “SHOPS « rciessrcvecstont siete sie Debora 399, 627, ill. 381 *‘Coihue’”’ wood used for paper-making: Chile.... 257 Coinage> (Asia) Minor gy ccc oor cleicle ieteiletsteven tate 565, 567 Coins, Ornaments made of gold: Africa....... ill. 368 Cold storage: Chilean Fuego’s freezing plants.... 272 Colic Root (Blazing Star)...... 55 (color insert) Plate VII, 36-53 Colima, (State)s) Mexico. ce ocin cole eee eee 453 College, « Tjiberiaings « éisis cee dic breve elope io ee ill. 412 College, Peking Union Medical............... 327-328 Cologne’ Cathedral: Germany... .<... o.ce eee ill. 98 Colombia, Hookworm disease in.............+.+: 309 Colombo; Ceylotis, «ccs: c:scic 2 ¢ couse» hens everson 669, 671 Colon Bay, Fishing methods used at............ 688 Colonial homes, Liberia has American........... 416 Colonies, Greek: Mediterranean world........ 559, 560 Colonists; German: Chiles: .. sure ae 258, ill. 266, 268 Colonization; ‘Liberian! 1816... = «stile eleteleletee eee 417 Colony, Denmark’s only; Greenland............. 130 Colorado Mountain scenes...... ill. 169, 174, 181, 186, 187, 190, 195 Colorado Yule mine, Marble from: Lincoln Me- TIO MIAN fas) ayade rs elovegs te tevoxele leiesesccsleve Vel eet ill. 200 Colossi of Rameses II, Abu Simbel: Egypt... .ill. 407 Columbia University has expanded its medical ACELVIEIES cafes one dis cate: o1s.'e ‘olin, ci so0s0) © ar oareaUeRS Reve Renee 328 “Columbus of the Air’: A. C. Read, U. S. N. 514 Columbus, Reputed casket of: Spain slaareteeateteer ri 92 Column, Westminster: London............... ill. 67 Columns, Greelounastceie.. settee iave 577, 582, 618, ill. 573, 583, 592-594, 596, 606 Washington, D. C. ill. 197-200, 202-204 Columns, Lincoln Memorial: Columns, Marble: Algiers’ Grand Mosque..... ill. 369 Columns, Papyrus-bud: Temple of Luxor...... ill. 373 Commerce, Liberia’s, destroyed by the World War 427 Commerce, Transoceanic air............ 205, 207, 213 Commercial” cities, *Harly.2.......-- ein eee 559 Common Carrier in Egypt (Donkey).......... ill. 371 Common Dodder (Cuscuta gronovi (Wild))...... 59 (color insert) Plate XVI, 36-53 Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca)..56 (color insert) Plate IX, 36-53 Communication, Soldiers cutting lines of: Africa ill. 354 Composite Family (Wild Flowers).. (color insert) Plates VII, XII, XV, 36-53 Concepcién; Chile’s, third! citys... ....+ eee 249 Condor, Chilean tamed)... > omna. « .. tems siemens ill. 254 Confirmed children taken to theater in Denmark, Newly. | a. ocest)evseceieieiovescilecesayese loko) ve oho cuaieioke to neon I4I Congo; Belgiancna. race tee 333, 335, 1112 ae 3io46 336-340, 342 60 Congress, Home of the Chilean: Sontiane. ae Sain a Conifers, Grow at about 10,000 feet elevation. .168, 185 Conservatory, Danish: Copenhagen.............. 137 Constantinople, Sancta Sophia at......... 591, ill. 109 Constitution: Denmark (1848)...............26. 157 Constitution: Wiberiat.m. ssi clei ee eee 422 Constitution Square; Athens: >.).. 1.16) eee 576 Constitution, U. S., not understood in Scandinavia 123 Contests, Atrts:) Greecestyo.. 6.3. «scien 582 Contrasts, Japan’ has’ “stramge.. .. ++. see OI Beneath the old (color insert) Plate XIII, 516-533 Convent, Leiria, Portugal, Convents: (Greece... . ie ae one 617, ill. 580, 603, 615, Convict colony: Las Tres Marias..sor, ill. 494, 495, 407 Convict. labor: Liberia’... ..\: . - steers 425 Convolvulus Family (Common Dodder)..s59 (color insert) Plate XVI, 36-53 Cook Islands:), Pacific: Oceans: 5 meee eee 679 Cooking, Mexicans........ ill. 472, 476, 478, 494, 495 Cooking over hot springs: New Zealand....... ill. 648 INDEDO BOR VOLUME XLIl, 1922 XI Page Cooks Haye Waste uisland’s a0 etec oe are iene etre steers 663 Cooperation, Denmark a land of....... 129, 130, 146, 149, 157, 161 Copenhagen, Denmark...... Hie, Wl, nia eG, nets), 130-132, 134, 138-142, 162 €opiapo, Chile....... 224,226, 2275) 2205) 2355230. 255 Copthue, Chile’s national flower...... 257-258, ill. 258 Cappers Asia; Minors: < ce eeisieesieree ill. 640 Cruises of the Carnegie............ 631, 634, 641, 665 Crusaderss english Porticales ss eee ee ieee. 514 Crusaders, German and Norman: Asia Minor.... 567 Cruz (Dr.), Oswaldo, and yellow fever.......... 322 Crystallization vats, Nitrate plant: Chile...... ill. 228 Cuba, Havana: From the harbor.............. ill. 317 Cubase Vellow fever nt i-.. eccck ctee 20:5. ciele ele eerniew 2 322 Guweca Chile{senational dances... sce oe eee 249 Guvdadorsi) (Mexico ecicice cet + ols os ocle eieleie = 482, 483 Culiacan, Mexico...487-488, 491, 493, 496, ill. 481-483 Culican River, Mexico..............+.2eccce- ill. 483 Culican Rosales, Mexico: Milk delivery in....ill. 463 Cumberland’ gsauce str. teva orci tots stdreun:e1 6 0) sie v1. oe ale ane 115 Curtom Shop win’ Caironn ne: + o.- 6 tarsi oe oitivie. 2 ill. 370 Currency, Liberian the same as ours............. 413 Currency, Pine boards used for: Chile........... 256 Custombouses Wisboriy. yes) cis ovsinieieie scetcvevs cists oes 516 Customs officers’ lookout post: Camargue...... ill. 8 CutlerseA IWaP eat hete reer cic ier cs. scausroxcdehs o aseyeketons 34 Cutler, Florida: Tree roots growing through a wagons -witeelaiaaiam ere ces sini eae croxsvere a cuevotere aucvene' ill. 191 Cuttlestish. (eacine islands = ic ise ie ele ere lee 685, 688 @Gyclades) lslands-) eAsseanm Sean. 4 ees erate 621 Cypress’ trees: "Greeceies o/b a hdsc de ont ese Seles s ill. 600 OG) Bye Daimyo, teudalelords-adiapainers-eee eles ere cite 299 Dalcar aA Eri Catste accsranresacatens esaeeetate setae eeerens 505, 665, 666 Dalnergia melanoxylon (Sudan ebony).......... 407 Damanhur (Egypt), commercial town............ 392 Dams, Nile, Projects for building new.......... 410 Dances: Chile;senational: = Ciecasaeiic emcee. eee 249 Dancers, Greelkivay.,cybaseiriake conc aterseeuatstcltoievape sot neces oreo: 627 Dance, Mianahiki Island, native................--. 685 Dance reantomimic:: apace ie i el tienes 282 Dance, Zulu wedding: South Africa........... ill. 445 Dancer, African: Ouled Nail................-. ill. 368 Dances; Camareters) Native. cirri «cre sree 5 Dancing aeinlseh ev pt hasmeee so seen creme eters 300 Dancing girls: Samoan Islandsss.........- ss ill. 682 Danes, Denmark and the. By Maurice Francis EG RAT hecretc cecavosenese mucus netedensuarsie eitins eeancenseeee Ok ta ctte ede ris Danes’ Island (Spitsbergen)... .....-.0.-.ce-e +s 637 “Danish Folk High Schools’ by Foght.......... 149 Danish West Indies bought by U. S., 1916 (Vir- gin e islands) 7 .e.clevcrsiaue eucksca toys eles cucaelole eat Youeleucnate 130 Daphne, Convent of: Greece............. 617, ill. 603 Daphne, (Defile of: (Greece. sic... . sete. wee cee 575 Dardanelles, Asia Minor and the..553, 564, map, 554 Darius, Old trail of: Bible lands................ 383 Darwin (Charles), Reference to............. 221, 256 Date Caravan in the Heart of Algeria........ ill. 366 WD atesitn PNVEXIC Oxascverele sar npclereese eee nee aueake iene soereaer ores 469 de Costa, Sefiora Angela: Argentina....... (text) 271 Deat: (God? Wapanis: HE Disuiecen ca. oe voc oeeeee 282 Death! rate, Childrens: Mexico... 4. oie oie 493 Deathe rate’. Chinatrcr ..csae aces sieice sie wees 328 Deathm rates, /Malariatc jist circ ot: nai wiarece « heroes 319 Deatherate, by phoidetev.eras. -. soe co aac aoe 300 Declaration of Independence: Ljiberia........... 22 Dedication exercises, Lincoln Memorial, May 30, LiQ2 Deb chassusicncu spare ee Gonalatessieu rears 6 are) e0 6 sasuena eteuebereke ill. 198 Deey,, ‘Chileans “Huemulic ade cms an sv cusrepercceieels 25 Weer IVTEXCIC ON thovernore eerie eae tvon el ote I Oe 487 Defoe’s “‘Robinson Crusoe”’...........22++++.241-242 Delphi, Greece../....05. 5... 625, 627, 630, ill. 588, 608 Deluge, Site of the last water of the: Greece...ill. 573 Demeter, Goddess: Greece............220cceeeee 618 Demeter, Temple of: Greece...............22- ill. 605 Denmark and Sweden long hereditary enemies.... 125 DENMARK AND THE DANES. BY MAU- RIGHECERANCISMBGAING. cass one c see eee IIs ID ermal Mia 9 whey cr ronsl one cie tesa esis ores aces eee 12 Denmark’s ruler related to most monarchs of IUrOPOS We dic ara tances SRE Ee cotoere ele oe ere 125, 129 Dentists. (Chinas... 2.5 skein eee eee ill. 322 Der War en Gang, Holger Drachmann’s......... I4I Deserteaneay: -EpyptiSia eA Eki Casters ce ill. 332, 349 Plage eiberianembl erecta. eiets cree © kao i sroeietene 413 Flags, Battle: Westminster Abbey............ ill. 69 Klaess Boye SCOUtS: Delmark iertae © aaleleletee ill. 133 Flags, Bull ring decorated with: Lisbon, Portugal (color insert) Plate V, 516-533 HlagsyCharmiysiapan sip rice: melds. .ici sce eee 319 Games: “At ricadas jac sen ee see ill, 343, 344, 351 Game, Camargue has a great variety of......... 4, 19 Game, Egyptian sudd swamp abounds in........ 408 Game, Japanese ball-kicking........ (color insert) Plate III, 282-299 Game-keeper: Camargue estate...........)0006 il, 3% Game protection: Egyptian Sudan.............. 406 Games, “Aztec:| “Hipballl.n... 5, 0) 99 Games; ‘Cowboys’: (Chile. .........0.) 248-249, ill. 264 Gamesh Greekairigas (out ckecnk. 5 582, 625 Games: Mapuche Indians, Chile................ ; 253 Games: MMiexicom aha toes id oe ill. 456, 500 Games, Olympic: Athens (Site of)............ ill. 599 Gannet-bird, Fish caught by the................ 642 Gannets or solan-geese: Africa................ ill. 441 Gargoyle, Notre Dame: Paris........-...05.5, ill. 113 Gas, Helium for dirigibles is preferable.......... 207 Gate, Cairo’s old town: Bab Zuweileh........ ill. 382 Gateway, at Karnalc Weypt. eee l. 405 Gateway, Gothic: Peterborough Cathedral..... ill, 78 GatewaysinGreeces 5.0). cis4 6 cscs ce ee ill. 596, 604 Gateways: Japan (Temple)...... = eclen insert) ates I, X, 282-2 GaugesyRatlway: (Chileno. eee : ae aoe Gaza, Desert railway transverses the plains of... 389 Geese: Egyptian sudd swamps.............e... Geiranger Fjord, Nomacen tiie eine (laiotete teen ill. ae Geisha girls: Japan.... (color insert) Plate V, 282-299 Gemis sa Ceylon.. \ 1k ysclae sisi cieeete tee ee e22cs 670 Genesis, Farliest account of Asia Minor......... 559 Genghis Khan, Old trail of: Bible lands......... 383 Gentian, Alps have some Species of./ 05. 25000 eee 168 Gentian, Closed or Bottle (Gentiana andrewsii Griseb))\cien sic jeok 53 (color insert) Plate IV, 36-53 Geographical boundaries, Egypt’s................ 383 Geographical History of Asia Minor. By Sir William: Ramsay..0.0 otc tases a 553 Geography, African, A distinguishing feature of ; : ill. 442 Geography is emphasized: Denmark schools...... 153 Geology, African) stratascaeeen ane ill. 442 Georgia marble: Lincoln Memorial............ ill. 202 Georgia: Mountains home... 4.0... .0 eee ill. 306 GeraMIiunnis) » coecers a: ccunidiore, ore ies hehe eles «ae 508, 641 German Central Africa............ 349, 350, 356, 362 German "colonists Chilessa.)cen ae 258, ill. 266, 268 German “forts: Africa.) .252..2 . 195 ee ‘ 362 German square-rigger: Mexico../. 55.5.0 nce 469 Germans killed in action buried by British with fullenaval shonors=) Athrica sn cee 358, ill. 355 Germany: Cologne Cathedral................. ill. 98 Germany _ threatened Denmark’s liberty.......... 131 Germs Vellow-teversons ss cece (text) 316 Gertride, Queen si. ss cisnce sono oe ee 140 Gezireh, granary, of the Sudan..5) see - 406 Gibbon “GE dyward)|:) (Ouoted. a... 4n eee 557 GilljoT. Pls, Quoted). cased. 1c eee 149 Giotto, Campanile of: Florence.......... 114, ill. 108 Giraffe: Egyptian sudd swamps............e..-. 408 Girl “Scouts, Danish..>... 5.c.:eeeee eee ill. 137 INDEX FOR VOLUME XLII, 1922 xv Page Givis: Denmark. ill, 132, 136, 037,143, 144, 148 160 Girls: Mexico........ ill. 456, 486, 498, 499, 502, 503 Gitanos, Mysterious: France........++-+ee+eee 3 Glacier, Lillieh6ok: Spitsbergen.........----- ill. 640 Glacier Natiomal Park, Montana.............. ill. 166 Glaciers, Caucasus Mountain...........++--+- VUE 5052 Glaciers: Iceland.......... joognoueopeosuc ouoeuad 641 Glaciers, Isthmus of Ofqui...... idaedpodceogGur 261 Glaciers: Lindsay Island, Antarctic Regions...... 649 Glaciers: Spitsbergen........-. esse eee ee cere ceee 639 Glaciers: Tierra del Fuego.....-.--..--seeeeres 273 “ + 242 Gold mines: Australia.............-..-- 674, ill. 664 Gold mines: Mexico........--++see-e+ee> 453, 458, 469 Gold mining: Chile......5....2+2.525-++20020-> 272 Gold of Many Lands Becomes Wedding Dowry: J MeCEy MRR cep onde denon Ue 0udO0O000D 0 Gade oUK ill. 368 Gold, Travelers carry funds in: Mexico...... 473-474 Golden Gate, San Francisco.........+...++-- ill. 686 “Golden Nile,’ Kalgoorlie Gold Fields, Australia ill. 664 Golden pearls: Mexico.......-.--seeeeeeeeeeees 473 Golden ragwort, Senecio torches belong to same family as the........-sceseeseeree cee ceces ill. 435 Golden St. John’s-Wort (Hypericum aureum) 53 (color insert) Plate V, 36-53 Goldenrod, Early (Solidago juncea (Ait))....59 (color insert) Plate XV, 36-53 Goldsmith, Court: Denmark.............+..---- 163 Gordon (Gen. C. G.), killed 1885..........+-++++ 403 Gorgas (Gen.), William C., and health campaign 317, 321-322, ill. 329 Gothic-Renaissance facade: Milan Cathedral...... III Gough Island, South Atlantic Ocean............ 667 Government buildings: Portugal..........-...-- 516° Governament; Denmark, .....0..-....:- 123, 129, 164 Government, Liberia has American form of...... 422 Governors Island, N. Y.: Aérial view........ill. 632 Graca Church, Lisbon, Portugal (Distant view? ; ill. so Graf von Gotson (German ship)..........-- 359, 362 ‘Seasiny licayieenl ores seodoneooddnDccd0guduOd ill. 397 Granise Telonilanuecagnnooeobocasups aouucuoap ude 282 Grains, Mozambique exports.........+-.seeeseee 505 Grammaticus, Saxo: Danish historian........ 136, 144 Granary, Sudan; Gezireh. 22-2. sc- o-61- « Saysvetiese 406 ‘Graig, Becker dinljostissocangocusge opccadoodda6 + 423 Grande Mosaic Aleierserry titer teria elon): ill. 369 Granite, Island of Bornholm, Denmark....... ill. 158 Granite, Walls of hand-tooled: Rhodesia...... ill. 431 Grant (J. A.), located source of the White Nile, 1862 Grapes, White: Grass houses, African natives constructing... .ill. 348 Grass: Plantain Family...36 (color insert) Plate IDE 36-53 Grass, Sour (Sheep Sorrel)....36 (color insert) Plate II, 36-53 Geass, Lop (CE ri piHorumiy) acdsee o cicle cles = oils ill. 214 Grassland opposes. woodland... .%....-5..5...-056 196 Geave, Napoleon's: ot.. Helena)... 20.20. + 2. 669 ““Grave of Hamlet,’ Monument over the........ 140 Grave, Stevenson’s (Rob’t Louis): Vailima...... 685 Peavelines, suTancere 1s aco cueieeteleiisleicbe/scercvere Biri Graves, Whitewashed: Penrhyn Island.......... 679 Gravestones, Ancient: Athens....... Gon, Wil, Seb, Byte) Graveyard, Araucanian Indian: Chile......... ill. 264 Gravevacdse Masten elslatidiacyecieie cectsteneleiisicie eit 663 ity pestis NIEKICOm ain ein eno etee Acorns yele: wiciave 473 Sraais AN iciseiinso Jeskdoles cecoenouooeoucGoDUUOUUG 649 Great Bear Lake, Canada: Copper district....... 217 Great Britain honors members of Naval Africa Expedition Page Great Britain in Egypt and Sudan...... 379, 388-389, 392-393, 403, 406, 410 Great Britain, Special Report of Board of Edu- CRON cogd00000Onbocnd0nnOUOnODND DBO IIgs 145, 149 Great Britain’s Navy in Africa in War Time. Bay Lvcevalle I, INV Dao donne eno ob bana soe - 331 “Greate Medicine (Chiet7> “Atticar. ss... +s sc06> 342 (Greysiar WAS ahuodnconio som Abon a> Deano An eee 574 Greece, The Glory That Was. By Alexander Wilbourne =\Weddellin 2.24... .e ear core 571 “Greek”? colonies: Mediterranean world...... 559, 560 Greek, language of education..........-.0scess 560 RCCISe iy MES RVD aren nepcte ie bier che aus reltetorc eile! slovereiele tater 383, 401 Greens Baya Spitsbergen... aces. + ele cre ietele 212 Green i Citya Ota Pekitl pe er. s1a\6 vetstace fueteyo/teovee Pelee 327 Greenhouses, Horses used to plow soil in: Island Ob, PAINAGE Ty eictsislerete ceve + a oreie els Grere- suetere e-oNere (text) 147 Greenland colony, of Denmatk. 2.2.4.2... s75e6 6 130 Greenland Curtents.ccadeiciveocls oye «pic 2 sleuecieiete nts 639 Greenland stores up large amount of ‘‘cold’”..... 213 Grocenymstone Asiaw NiimOT 1. 1. cierve lo clete ie ere ee ill. 562 Grotto, Iceberg: Antarctic Regions............ il. 655 “Ground itch,” Irritation known as: Causes...... 313 Groundcherry, Clammy (Physalis heterophylla) 57 (color insert) Plate XI, 36-53 Groundnut on peantit-s pAtmCae ese eae eee 666 Grundtvig, Nikolai Frederik Severin: Denmark 135, 142-143, 145 Guam My thicalolsland@otermcr-ii-oee ee ele see 653-654 Guanaco, Andes Mountains home of the....219, 229, 249, 272 Guano-producing, birds Arica... 2). 21-111. ill. 441 Guatenrala Yellows fevetraiins ieee ietiei-tellersitero ee 322 Guatemalan Jungle, General Gorgas in a...... ill. 329 Guayaquil, Ecuador......... 2387S 22-3 23 oe illest Guaymas, Mexico...... 459, 460, 469, 475, 493, ill. 456 Guérin, Jules: American artist............ (text) 201 Guerrero! (State), Mexicon. ..cesoteee eee sees ae 453 Guides, Mountain: Greece.............22+-05. ill. 618 Guildenstern, Danish diplomate.occ.-. senses 136 Guinea a ES pOLtshale as sce feavekocscsievoen eerste aie eeu a 505 Guinea-£o wile Aertcay iis Eleecditavancl eri OlOte discs rele fellocolelelekeleus) -leieelolsiehoiiele en: 620 ltermices sAmicient: ZAtheNS <6... sviis i056, stennycieieile avalos ners 607 Hermes of Praxiteles (Greek marble)......... ill. 580 Flernintsa lena) GreeCe a s).\01 cic cere soe oli tse, Wile 3775} FW @ Clemo ig Nb CAleneyetenoiles/age, sist sie).s siete 6 eiley/olieyctos exeeieicichiere 582 ilierodotuss Greek historian... s..... 2 0.6% «erse)e 562, 619 Herons wh eyptian. Sudd swamps. on... s65 snes. 408 lsleve@; IDembichl Opa! WiisoooooooooouddoboGoc0b Duc I4I ides ssM astern tslanad! exports... ere entertain 654 High schools, Denmark’s system of...... 135, 143-147, 149, 153 Highway, Pike’s Peak Automobile: Colorado...ill. 195 Highway wrecked to stop invaders: Asia Minor... 567 Isler rotepe ian} yA et Sieyelevcioreve ieyesiavey ays aici ote eoeuene etic 597 Fan SMotaAthens, -Greeces, «.s.s:esi0 e001 e-crevore reece Sle 574 Himalaya Mountains, Trees of the.. -193 ill. 170, 173 Hinds County, Mississippi Health campaign TMs on BLO Eindarhemples Hin, lslands... sic cols cctelele. one ill. 328 THE NATIONAL GROGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Page Hipball; Aztec vametotensess fone eines 499, ill. soo Hippopotamus: Egyptian sudd swamps........... 408 Historian, Danish: Saxo Grammaticus........... 136 Historians; Byzantimess. osisieles se cissiie erecta eterna 570 Historians, Greek... s: cous walls ss eis otc ser eee 560, 562 Historic town, Chile’s most:/ Copiapé.........een 224 History, Egypt’s seiia a w\nse'D ioiprn ts ee caife’> 3/8 0 ae 379, 383 History, Danish and tradition of Shakespeare’s Hamlet oom \plo o:p'e\e leis elb 6\s\ole aieipietetwrelst ets) teieintanenennmn 136 Hittites: Asia ‘Minor. sin .iss ab ca cite ie enna 560, 564 Hobhouse, (John Cam) in Athens. .....0.2. 27s 610 H¢ffding, Harald, Danish ‘author.....+...0.0 seen 163 Hogs: South Georgia.).).:vcls cere octeie'e cleteieiel tae 647 Hojbro-Plads, Copenhagen:.c. ...... +s seen ill. 119 Holberg, Bronze figure of: Copenhagen....... ill. 118 Holidays: Haster Wsland).). «2 cee. nace eee 654, 663 Holy Herb (Blue Vervain)...... 36 (color insert) Plate III, 36-53 Holy Maries of the Sea: Camargue............; 32 Holy Wisdom, Name St. Sophia means......... 591 Home | life, Egyptian. ais. «.s:s0\s.0 joan. Blas, Mexico: ....cc000 ee os ee ss 502 imsects>= Beletan Congo... kek ess tees 333, 341, 346 aisects. Japa aAbOuNdS 11s oo.6 6.2 aie ssa sso cveloes ws 299 International affairs, Danish students have little in- POLES Caelile sicher cieiste + eieretewe cleicliohe aicmanchels aoe) (esis, chimeo teats 146 Inverted Arches: Wells Cathedral............. ill, =74 Iodine, by-product of nitrate manufacture........ 223 Rodines Rawhide kegs of: Chile: : i:..05.2...02%. ill. 229 MOTTA TID MATETS ES ereyeltan occ stortuc se poiskeu sn srershe s astelelel ctees elecoh 562 Ionian traders and sailors: Asia Minor....... 559, 560 Komie: icolunins:: (Greece syste eciee ck so ese aes 582 open cy tie. me Cina © oh orenctct heh v's ete lopoeeh oh ecole ter ere wie o Bhai ee 223 Epsarawlslatidi) Asia “Manor. ac. a-cciepis is cree ene cuclevene 553 ica sine dommot- Karle: shetsallsertaeieetere clea ere 388 iseland, Fyphus killed doctors ins... 22600. <)s 06 327 roi mransigs (CHIC a0 5.505 14.0.0 «chore e's soos evens 227-5230 erigationicwNSia — MinOtss .c.c scr oo) e svs.cietole ve oe Bey OY inigationssCamargue. Hrances sess see: Ale rosi ier hrdsation: * Chiles cae as cust sae tery fees cues Loa 221 Irrigation: Egypt and Sudan....395, 406, 410, ill. 398 limeceysoine Veeilosacgacacbacosde 275, 281, 299 ill. 274 hEnication works: Ceyloitee --)che.c ee nen cinerea ee 670 Minieatiomaworks > Miexiconecme ceteris 481, 491 Ksanjordur, Tcelanid: < + sxc ce osteisi eles shores severe See ill, 638 Ishtyama, Temple: Japan... ........- (color insert) Plate IV, 282-299 ishimacleCanal. i oyntcctaee eer ae ee 395 Kstands, Asia Minior’s: chains, Of. gf oscre-e «olerler s-s,exer 553 Ismailia, Suez Canal: Campaign against malaria 351 319 Estimian Canal, Corinth... 155. kh. 5.2. 623, 625, ill; 560 MsFlmtiam games GreeCe:3.cr cache sie secon oe cteerere sis 625 Kstinmussot Orga, Chiles ac eee eee 261 Isthmus of Tehuantepec, Mexico..............-. 452 MEAN isin, SECON 3. ener oiaie Moleeysies eens tra Batic. de nieve 401 Maly, Canmipaien against. malatia ime eca.. 1... e 319 Kaly, (Cathedrals: obs. sis ssi esl crae wcorsteyerc.enete ill. 100-108 Italy’s Queen, African mountain named for..(text) 434 ECA GCC CE ec tore ovis, wiz, coche saeaadsher cya lav ay oneee here ec) hake) tae 8% 625 elite, GUSLAastcbe Oks cesites ated tole aYells xe etre es fale 6s, 6 ill, 624 EyOny,erlepitatt. tisicaAticaer se eile aes: MO, ABS vey God, Btidid . > iz sole -e acre era coe odes oobare siete oles 505 Ivory, Mozambique exports..........-+- oc a0COO0UE 505 Fmd, Japan: Siitite: SUING. . ms5.. 25s Sh tes 282 oil Pag Jailer and charges go home over weekends: ae Samoa, glslandseryciterscmciten ota econ ee see 652 jaliscons State) Mexico sss.) eel le 453 Jamaa-el-Kebir: Grand Mosque of Algiers.....ill, 369 iamMestown wists Elclenace aoseess ) os seb oe ele lee 667 Japan has eight million divinities................ 282 Japan, Rural. By Walter Weston.............. 275 Japanese Life, Picturesque Side of..Color insert XVI plates, 282-299 Japanese syndicate representatives in Chile a0 6: 60 @ Jiapheth sav anesomeot tyres. cia ee Naame Wiate tee Greece ni. 6 0% 6 caine hase Bone ill. Nia atetce SI DOLiay.c cs osetdias se mcrececltees ene ill. ans eVVia tetas Ovi a ccexstts syn.choyehelotovelketee 5 nee ill. jaundice; Germijof infectious.........0-00...... ee os eee IeeAys ere seit avan ree Oi) a5 0Q0000005 560, 562, 563, Ve UN CMAN CHise ke eee Jeanne d’Arc Statue, Rheims Cathedral Jensen, Johannes V., Danish novelist............ Jericheau (Jens Adolf), Danish sculptor........ Jeronymos (Belem Cathedral) : Portugal..550, ill. icnsey Citys Nes eNeriallaviewaein ese. ill. Jerusalem, Cairo to: “The Milk and Honey Ex- DRESS pho uoneee oes elt oO cherie eaters Sh chccs 379, 388-289, Nenusalemy i Siesem ori (iLoO) as scecn se oneemee 567, SESSANC Te Wes mare Lea a pein ne en MeN aR ill. Jewelry, Danish women wear individual......... Jewish types, Eontugal~hasisome-). «0.15.11. os ews ase farmers jin) eealestine..ee. ssn. e en ele Jinrikshas, Taxicabs replacing: Ceylon.......... Job’s or Widow’s Tears (Spiderwort) ..53 (color 233 417 670 insert) Plate IV, 36-53 Johns Hopkins University, School of Public tealth wand ’etly.c1eneser.: see a ine ee eee Johnston (Sir), Harry, African mountains as- Cenide dh ibivemic tase tes east rewate ce oar sieha cic ah re (text) ilonsson,. Winar- Danish) sculptor....s: ese. sseme Térgensen, Johannes, Wanish® poets s. aeccvne ere ae Tosephine, a baby chimpanzee a uate leterehess ill. 346, Journey Through Chile, A Longitudinal. By Harriet Chalmers Adams........++..0.-s0eee. Ju-Ju, African natives worship a new....... 359, juan’ Hernandez, dslandss.4 552-2: 241-242, ill. ihudasStrees akon Weal cetera eran eee mies ill. tuncal Chiles Railway ustationeen serie ioe ill. Jungles of Africa, Transporting a Navy Through the. By Frank UMMA COS ote roeesr oe Cee hates bagse fromeln diacu Chilean rinse eee ill. Jutland, Ribe once most important city of: Den- TVA TI CRB POTS Aaraihe etatai'c adee Green rm, 6? oY gual ae a ill. Soke Kabalow BeleitanmConconeaceaeeme econo Kabyliay Algeria: Christian brides... os... 0. ill. Keadianebelsian Concorso ee eis Kai Brovanices sianatie, 6: ehne went ee ee KalabakassGreecetavy. nc eee en ill. 612, Kalgoorlie gold mines: Australia........ 674, ill. ealtitatas Gey lonitas cscs: a cpecier ek my cieens ern Kambove, Seleian, (Congovecs+ ses sees ono oee siamengey ey ptian enddlesnsss. wane ee cece Kandyar OCeylon ms sur air... tein hatte evalu cee ere wikanganiyimne Gey Onis. ares ok aie ill. Kanga oomercenierr tierce 674, 675, ill. Kangaroo paw, Red and green: Australian wild HO WETS seteneqectusc ccaserottir tie eines ow tO ioe rae 184 163 163 347 219 361 674 Kantara, Egypt, on the Suez Canal....383, 380, 303, ill. 3 Keel eyein, ANG, MGI s oo coo cocoa 600dd00000S< Bit) Karan i Sea ire. cake crates Svan ic ete aie aan eee 637 IKeareogiic, Ieoiciall eng IBEATOIES 6 ono ocadouanKGDdKCC ill. 405 Katanga District mbeleian Congo... cscs ce ee ill. 334 Keats Odersaid sat. Del phive. acne nie eee 630 Kenya Colony, Africa: Loading ivory........ ill. 433 Ke phitsia UG reece syeveccierrte ora ocr erator Oe 602, 616 Kerguelen Island, Antarctic Regions............ 649 IWenosenemvender:serortucallas eiciesiiecrtesers ill. 541 KehantaCaravance omy tnacs cee ae eo eee SES Khana ihalalin) | Cairousssesise nic one cereeieee ill. 370 IKimekeuehen, IdeAnoimien GSieclercoocogsseosoccbGKe 403, 406 IhtasvasaGreece fit.is cerns sce ce ck Se ee 616 Kagomay )langanyika = Dernnitonye cee eee 349, 362 Ki rovince syapantsc. ose e se siciete ae aio ae ee oe Kaller Whales: Antarctic Regions..........-.. ill. 661 King (Pres.), Charles Dunbar Burgess.......... 4II King, Clarence, author of ‘‘Mountaineering in the Sierraw Nevada: s. peoetn cey acca ee in eee XVIII Page King Edward Cove, South Georgia.......... 647, 649 King Feisal, Kingdom A Eh Adin nb con o nh nOOCOe 388 King George’ s message to British soldiers in Africa 359 King José, Statue of: Lisbon........... 516, ill. 534 King of the Belgians, private fishery: Africa. 349 King Oscar, descendant of French General Berna- dotte, replaced ira ieccn cpaieisinve ciaiuve/ele’nisie's 12 Kingani (German gunboat)...... 250; 352, 354, 350; 359, 361, 362 KMine’sGarden, Athens. 660.5 cece eee racy 576, 577 King’s Market, Copenhagen..............se+ee8 137 Kipling; Mexico needS a... ...0.c's nes wneeences 485 RAG MOIS EE GLECCE ee cie se eo nalta css slelssec'e 627 Kisali Lake, Belgian Congo............5.. ~22ee 347 Kitchen, Farm-house: Camargue............ ill. 16, 17 Kitchen, Japanese... (color insert) Plate XVI, 282-299 Kitchens, Convict: Tas Tres Marias Islands : ill. 494, 495 Kitchens, Mexican Indians’......... ill. 472, 476, 478 Klampenborg, Denmark...............+0-+-. I15, I40 “Knight of the Rosary,” title of the Rosencrans ‘arma; “So g800 bad D CUO OOO UNIO OG Ud ObOOdoD Yao (£36 Knitting, Camargue WiOMatlr ty tonsils cartaiews te neie a. WG) ay “Know thyself,” famous saying............-- hi. 630 Knud, Prince: Denmark..............-..00+. llsere3 Kofu, Rivers GoGdess sols iaApal. ois «ose 01s <0 ple 281 IK@ alii, IbihyYeckigs 48 66 sep oboe Goo UoOOmd oOo OdauG 424 Kold, Kristen: Danish educator......... 142-143, 145 Kolyma Rina, Sloe ids ss oonodggucapuoncounode 207, Konia, Asia CSTE een ee 564, 570, ill. 563 iKomam srefacl fim IbAeekis oo co ouungcooono0UKDODOOOU 42 Koran, Theological students taking examinations Fray USES. (CLM Capa ge Net ae eset ire RND seierente ill. 387 Koshiji, Tayu ‘Takemoto: Japanese actor (text) (color insert) Plate XV, 282-299 KOS Weve, EEN sd sbeccssnadcucdduunduoduD 281 IKepwesismn Gitte) -meleaberiarecniettayerelclotaiaye ieee tenner 429, 430 Gaal INR? YAubate ss Me cee sc onnbaucoudD ill. 334, 445 Krathis, Mt Convent at footi ot: "Greece.)..... - ill. 589 Kronborg Castle: Denmark..... 125..1a7. 140, ql. 156 Kroyer (Peter Severin), Danish painter.......... 163 Kecippmcon cession © inal ejncyereie eves erat sae ole eet « ets elie) «tele 258 Krus (The): Liberia....... 415, 429-430, ill. 414, 415 Gere, Yayoenas INehENL Webale oo oacoboneacuooopgdde 301 Kuttab or elementary school of Egypt........ ill. 386 Key belese hemplemobe Sardis) or, crits ceils ycieel- lesen 562 Kyoto, Japan........ (color insert) Plates II, III, VIII, XIII, 282-299 ctu Ata JNrekocera” IareilkiSdoooosocboocadceuscgsUK 254 Tia Gorce, John Oliver. The Fight at the Timber- NTT Sa Pet ests teket cheeses ahs oi eet ae touaneketsisue, edetlere cy Oielaneliaahevelets 165 WamP az i CB Olivia icetecc ioe reeveieins vitote stevshonenetoreatel seis 242 Wamebaznle ower Calinoniianerieds ctecieisietelelereyclene 469, 473 Wap Serena, UClile ttre tutes stesso euoneve's) © ere afeuele: aus evs 237 arm iniGri tChilene san weep fate leees ty cee iecauenedenek see en aes 258 Labor responsibilities: Denmark............. 161, 164 ILAlloyexe Urano, Ie WeSooncoancsadenno gD U0GbOO 403 Laboratory, Hookworm: Nicaragua........... ill. 308 Wace-malanoce Sth pbleletian sc -1s,-,.:ebrisiclcl-tecloleieeteete > 669 Lace-making, Swedish women taught............ 125 Wace: Wlexican) amantillasas os oc; ss ee cic ill. 461, 466 “Tadies of the Vale’ spires: Lichfield tee ill. 66 Ladies’ Thimble (Bluebell)....58-59 (color insert) Plate XIV, 36-53 Lady Chapel, Winchester Cathedral.............. 81 Lake Bangweulu, Rhodesia................... ill. 360 Wakemicsalaambeloiany (Congo. eae « cieisle eeerels 347 Wakemlulanquiliies 1 Chileneeis. cee sci so cielloreike ill. 266 Lake, Iongest fresh-water: ‘Tanganyika, ee ill3s3 Take, Second largest: Lake Victoria, Africa. (text) 440 Walemhaneanvilcas AC TICA] ce). coe ets =:331, 347, 349, ; : ill. 352, 353, 355 Wake «5 s'els cle 129 Lane (EB: W.) 2 Ouotedoincccfscenn sees ocean 401 Lange-Miiller, Song music created by............ 141 Langelinie Park, Copenhagen: Sinding’s Valkyrie ill. 130 Language, French, widely spoken in Egypt...... 401 Language, -Greekith cvs so isslo's ws a eleie. cian te eee 560 Language: Weeland os <3)... dee sss ele neo ce cia enone Ba Language of the \Troubadotrs..-..4- 22s ase eee Language; ) Portugese rs cicie/clele cisic cis ciels ie etait 516, baa Language, Vai natives have a written............ 429 Banguages, (scandimaviani. ses + ee siecle eicien tena 125 Languedoc, ‘Provence and: ..-...... +. sss snieeneie Lapis lazuli, Hot springs in Greece not unlike the COlOT OF ive. .\cicjeterctcueds, suedolels wveleisieuayeteveusi(onereve tate aeaman 619 Larger or Hyssop Skullcap (Scutellaria integri- Folia iE) ital ctetertate 53 (color insert) Plate IV, 36-53 Largo de Camoes (Square), Lisbon.............. 541 Vargo. do Carmo; Wisbons..\. - cise © telels ciateteleeene 540 Lariats, Horsehair: Camargue........ rs, il. 26 wes Las (Pinas; Philippine Islands...) smi. oiereiens ill. 309 Las Tres Marias (Island)...... sor, ill. 494, 495, 497 Latitude, Chile’s shore extends through nearly 39 GEGTEES: OF 5 icles ci6eciwle o/e'e-o Srevete ole SENG Sree 219 Laughing, Japan has an annual custom of....282, 299 Laundries, River-bank: Camargue............ 1s Laundry, Outdoor: Mexico.............eeeee- ill. 482 Laundry, ‘Outdoor sPortigall... 1. oc eee eae eee ill. 542 Laurel, Sheep or Lambkill (Kalmia angustifolia) 55 (color insert) Plate VII, 36-53 Lautaro, Ercilla’s hero was a real man: Chile.... 254 Mava iheldss scelandtajcciielcle seen 641 Laveran (Chas. L. A.) discovered cause of malaria 315 Law of war, Religious: Asia Minor............. 567 Laysan Island, Hawaiian group................. 677 Le Cailar brancets.. 5. scene cs TO, 25% all, v4asniseeeer Tead's “Asia’ Minot eccic nc. 2%5, 6 010.5 oc 5, ole ape eene 570 Treads) Chiles otic ose: dS eel cyeleve sos oe nara, Dpto Ie 233 Leaning Tower of Pisa, Italy See's «' 5,0» Cra ill. 102 Leather, Mexican tannery’s..........00+eceucee 469 Leaves, Japanese children gathering........... ill. 277 Lee County, Mississippi, Health Campaign.ill. 305, 330 Mees (Riewtae. [aR iis aa cee s eo isieeens 331, 83628oGs Leg-o’-mutton, fishing craft: Portugal..... 510, ill. 552 Wegeringss” Diberiay..< dens acleteles 6 eit Oo ROE ill. 421 Wegend, (Religious: Camargue.....o..- sen eee 32-33 Legend, St. Swithin and the weather............ 71 Wegends::; “Asia *Minorecc acc celts eee eee 554-555 Legends, Greek....591, 617-618, 625, ill. 573, 586, 624 Legends of lost mines: Mexico.......... 449, 452, 458 Leiria, Portugal: Street scene...... (color insert) Plates X, XIII, 516-533 Leksand, Sweden, Costume of................ ill. 162 Wemnos Island) Asia Minors... ccs. seers aie 553 Pearaat (Maj.) drafted plans of Washington, siieieheviaile «) svelere relocate (6 oleteualiel ee lecsierarctanecen ene enemas 61 engine Chile’s) 225627 miles. cite cite se eee 219 Leonidas (king of Sparta)emeriaee eee eee 575, 619 Leopard, African natives preparing to cook a re Bsn Leptospira icteroides yellow-fever germ.......... 325 Wesbos Island: Asia. Minor. cortels «cle ere ee 553 Lesser Mysteries, Candidates for the.:...... 4.0: 617 Letter-wariters, Keypt has... soscces coon aceite 399 Liberia, Carnegie skirted the coast of........... 666 Wiberia ‘College: Wiberiasn...s 5 seen eee ill. 412 Liberia: Land of the Free in Africa. By Harry Ate McBrid@seec.sc sio0 kame os 5 elle DEE Ee 411 Diberia’: ;Scemesis cvs: sroncr.icvelelorel « chee ill. 412-426, 428, 429 Liberia’s capital named for Pres. Monroe........ 413 Library, Athens’? gift from’ Hadrian. ...2. 2... 577 Liceaga (@Dr;) and yellow fever....-- 4000 eee 322 Lichfield Cathedral: Enegland.....:........5... ill. 66 Life, Mexican Indian’s average length of........ 493 Life-rafts, Ice-floes as: Polar Regions....211, ill. 2009 Lighthouse, Golden Gate, San Franciso.......... 686 Lighthouses: Camargue, France.............. ill) 24) Lighthouses, Cape Henry: Virginia............ ill. 688 Laghting.) (Cathedrals a ancien ill. 65, 68, 69, 87 Lightning, Taking observations by: Carnegie.... 666 Lights, South polar, or aurora australis.......... 651 Lij Yasu, grandson of King Menelik...... (text) 375 Lilliehook Glacier, Spitsbergen................ ill. 640 lew. WWehtien oo ococu000 35 (color insert) Plate I, 36-53 Lime, Nitrate ‘of: 0 'e'i. 0s oc ane ae eee eee 223 INDEX FOR VOLUME XLII, 1922 Page Hincolm Cathedral: Knegland..).......... 61, 81, ill. 80 Lincoln Memorial in Washington (D. C.)..ill. 197-204 Lindsay Island, Antarctic Regions.............. 649 Ling’s system of gymnastics: Denmark.......... 153 “Tingue’? wood used for furniture...........-.. 257 Lion’s Head, Cape of Good Hope Province, Africa ill. 443, 671 cclirelnogees JlisiogegduacoconododobduooudGudoOD es 516 iLiginom IBeeoobosdo ook obo SoacononuudouooecdOEUS SII Lisbon founded by Ulysses: Legend............ 505 Lisbon, Portugal....ill. 504, 506-509, 512-515, 534-552 (color insert) Plate V, 516-533, Map 510 LISBON, THE CITY OF THE FRIENDLY BAY. BY CLIFFORD ALBION TINKER... 505 Meloy, ye, sill, Ben Wlanquhwe lake. Chile. sors. 3 258, 259, ill. 266 Hlanguihve:province: Chiles. ni cick as) crenre oe 261 Hlanstephan Castle (Sip) 6 sac. oss ore leurs cise --+sb eee 639 Miagdaletanm Mexico cics)ieyeleiel-te cieinia oeieie eee 453, 458 Ileverxe, Ivo Mon ke INT, We INE Daan aso sose ns il. 345 Magee, Frank J. Transporting a Navy Through the Jungles of Africa in War Time............ 331 Magellan (Fernando): Portuguese navigator..205, 262 Magnetic field, Earth’s............ 631, 639, 641, 651 Magnetic needle settles lawsuit.................. 671 Magnetic Observatory) Australia..........-+--.- 674 Magnetic Observatory, Western Samoan Islands.. 68- Mahmudiveh Canalyeboypteas.-.0.5.-..22500 0006 aos Mahogany, African: Bahr-el-Ghazal province..... 407 Mahogany, Railroad ties of: Mexico............. 488 “Maker of royal marriages,’’ Queen Louise...... 129 Malaria, Campaigns against...303, 305, 307, 313, 315, 319, 321 Malayan limon vexponts) drags. eee oss eeene 505 Mallos.. "Asia miNiii ors cinn exc csicvere) ei ¢ nore oe ousithe te ci aiele 559 Mallow Family (Crimson-Eye Rosemallow)....56 (color insert) Plate VIII, 36-53 Malmoy scandinavian, I jiulianal. ccc se ieee ee 164 Maria Pia Bridge, Oporto, Portugal (color insert) Plate IV, 516-533 Marianlyst ab enmanrke.cy.iccirteietc le or olerisiere ties 140 Miarketa, Gates Athens\s,.cimererorcret sieks aie cledsioleiersh stele ee 31353 WMiesninadomkRivier) Iiberiaiy.. cs. ses sels er clei e's oar 415 WMietalmemmrnatm ori Chile mi c.ccrers cute b shen occ erclstober stolen 233 MI GHODES* SICA ORA AMG ISOC TOR OORTC OO ore 483 Meteora, Greece: Monastery............. ill. 612, 613 Meteorite, World’s largest: Mexico............. 491 Meteorological Observatory, Argentine: South Geoneta naa oe pseeereap oats ecient oe < Cfo) edrvenesevers 647 Meteorological Observatory, Western Samoan MEST ta Gl SHE tasle oe eveyetiecn eseceuhasee Gre hve ei gto G elleuis (earls, twice 685 Meteorological station: Faster Island........... 235 Mexican mountains have more permanent snow Unein Kaorrida Siloxsklsooobcounpaneugg0udGuc eno ee 2G Mexican National Museum, Stone relics in... .ill. 500 Mexico, Campaign against yellow fever in. . (text) 321 Mexicom (City) Catiedral (Oise. se 2 si oe el elehe eles ill. 110 Migs Swoe ikachiewn sw. 5beé650g50oacdoc0D0K7 ill. 320, 321 Mexico, Orizaba Mountain.............. 168, ill. 188 Mexico: Scenes........ ill. 450, 451, 454-459, 461-468, 470-472, 474-486, 489, 490, 492, 494, 495, 497-500, 502, 503 ..Insert, 8 illustrations, 461-468 IMENbco oa coon AS ou CooooOUD 452 By Herbert Corey...... 449 Mexico, Views from.. Mexico, West coast: Mexico, West Coast of. THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Page Michelsen, A.: Danish court goldsmith.......... 163 Michoacan (State), Mexicoy ss... ...205 oe 453 Micro-photographic pictures of hookworm disease. 309 ies Cseomiars Panama Field Station........... ill. 32 1dnightesun.-- eee eee 211, 634, 635, 637, 16NG Midsummer Night’s Dream, Shakespesne's) ee ae MIDSUMMER WILD FLOWERS. BY THE EDITOR: ILLUsST se A’ rIONS FROM PAINT- INGS BY MARY E. EATON......00-000eeue 35 Miel de palma (honey ae ‘the palm): Chile.....i. 239 Milan’ Cathedral: Ttalye 3 }.2.. +5 Ir, 114, ill. 103-105 Miletus (Asia Minor), Temple of Apollo sists stander 562 Military administration, Asia Minor under the ROMAN * esis 'oj0.8 2 ales Bloharetaie psoisephe beers Aare ee 557 Military highways by which trees advance....... 189 ees and Honey Express’ from Cairo to Jeru- SALSIG er cierevanchatel crete velepalevateteaiehel stones , 388-389, 2 Milk delivery, Goat: Asia Minor.... ay A ie ; oan are Milk delivery, Morning: Mexico. «. so... seni ill. 463 Milk, water-buffalo gives more than the cow...... 8 Milkweed, Common (Asclepias syriaca)..56 (color insert) Plate IX, 36-53 Milkwort, Orange (Polygala lutea)..... 59 (color insert) Plate XVI, 36-53 Millets::Japaln’.:. dilate siete eitpers ese tere. oe ole te ee oe 282 Millions of Harlequin, The: Danish ballet........ 137 Milner: (lord) At M:); "Quoted... 2.4.20 sane 379 Mimi (Motor boat)..... 333, 343, 345, 347, 354, 356, ! 359, 361, 362, ill. 352, 355 Minarets, Cairo’s mosques and........... ill. 380, 385 Minarets, Sancta Sophia: Constantinople...... ill. 109 Mine in the crater of an extinct volcano, Copper: Chile So chtn ae ate cde atetoe sis ctl ee Se ill. 231 Mineral, resources: Liberia... .. .o.e6 eee 4II Mineral (springs: cPortucale. .... 000 eee 508 Minerals: -Asia, Minoredensn.). 0 eee 570 Minerals: Chile....221, 231, 233, ill. 228, 230-233, pee Mines and mining: Asia Min Of"... 0:.ate.d oats ore Mines and mining: AaIStraliacicc csi cacao ill. rH Mines and’ mining: Chile..72.. 233, 235; 2375 230, 2408 A 272, 273, ill. 220, 225, 228-233, 236 Mines and mining: Mexico........ 449, 452, 453, 458, 469, 475, 491, 499 .(color insert) Plate XIV, 516-533 Minho, Portugal, Belles of.. Minnows, Fighting mosquitoes with.......... 319, 326 Minotaur, Theseus and the: Greek legend........ 591 Minstrels, Japan has its..(color insert) Plate XT, 28>- 299 Mint Family (Wild Flowers)...... (color insert) Plates IV, VILE 36-58 Miramar, Mexico: 399 Musical instruments: Japan........ (color insert) Plate XI, 282-299 Mursselsim iG ltl eesnees eter. to tever irae) o et ear eia) oxeltos see eveios 241, 261 Mustard, Field or Charlock (Brassica arvensis) 57 (color insert) Plate XI, 36-53 Mutton, Frozen: Chilean export..........++e0-- 263 IMG, (VASE, INGBROSe)) 56000006045000050000000- 553.0570 Mysteries, The: Greece.......... (text) 605, He 618 Mysterious man: Las Tres Marias............ ill. 497 Miystetyaoreisaster. sland. -)siereeetele ie eee 654, 663 eiythicalelislatde ote Garam’ qe ets cleo oe ere ale 653-654 IMivitlrGlOg vam Gree les everssin te accreted e0re. ose oS vane ue 20 560 seNy”? INE Coarse Seaplane ieccnccseterei ote iets eio este 218, 514, ill. 509 “Nacioun Gardiano”’ is a cowboys’ union: Ca- TTD G SUL] ty see etap oe tanele vec eben si shoe che ake olichi's e\ a lolol) ouelel ee) 20 NSHe EluapimllakeweATgentitianies ices ses eee. 259 SINIBIRZ yaks Sy MELA TIOMTIUICe sein cpedate eyereieheieier ohovectve elevset hele 399 Name Asia Minor is a medieval invention....... 553 Names) Ioritishim@hilen shi terrace slclele tice Sustenerets ole 239 Names, Christianized Mapuches and Chileans. .253-254 Names: Japanese poetic titles................ 275, 276 Names, Kru boys have sailor: ieee Re a ee erie 430 Napoleon, References tos. .8 2.5 toes 9, 383, 607, 667 Napoleon’s drummer boy at Maselite severest (text) 175 Napoli me Wanishemballeteneriercrcteceeieaee in crecien eee 137 Narrow Plantain. (English Plantain)......... 36, (color insert) Plate ID 36- 53 Natal kraal, Zulu wedding dance: South Africa ill. 445 National Art Museum, Santiago, Chile: Pore ee ill. 252 Nationale beverage: aliapan:S:udlheaviclei- 7. < oc cies es 6 oe oe 163 Nightshade Family. Nikko, Japan: (Clammy Groundcherry)..57, (color insert) Plate XI, 36-53 Gateway Seeenecienees (color insert) Plates I, X, 282-299 : Arab prophecy fulfilled 383, 389 Nile Delta, Commercial towns of the............ 392 Nile River, Along the. By Frederick Simpich.... 379 Nile River, Egypt, Scenes along the...ill. 394, 396-400, 402, 407, 408 Nile River, Reservoir of the: Lake Victoria..(text) 440 “Nile came to Jerusalem”’ Nile River, Souncestot then cot on cog at eieroiorereioiee oe 407 Nimes, Fran COR MNT r at aun akin city Cae eT es AD. AAS Nitrate: Ghiletin 222, 62235,1224) 238. ll 220) 2c. n226" 228, 229 Nogales Mp Mexi COM nitalecitaeietcie erase ietasnne! dene 449, 458, 473 Noguchi, (Dr.) Hideyo: Japanese scientist..... 323-325 INonremcountnysy Allaskaly. series sce scd eiecn eres © ill. 214 Non-magnetic yacht Carnegie: Sailing the Seven Seas in the Interest of Science. By J. P. Ault 631 Noonday Rest Among the Sand-dunes, Algeria..ill. 367 Norman) Cathedral eanaeces cee a: ill. 64, 65, 72, 86 INonthy Atlantic sDrift.:c,scleciie osicscn suave wclsiees sie 637, 639 North Capex light, byAway, (Ob. sneees s1e + sels nile 205 INontlny Caper WNORWAV EE mustintss o clvee since fuels e siste vie cle 637 North (Carolina Typhoid ‘fever inc. .40 eee 309 North Devon Island, Glaciers of moderate size in.. 213 Norther” Valparaiso). cers sjecs: sie siteone sve sic rerecane @ 0 ec 241 INozthern Flemisphere: Map ccieincas seen ese 206 Northern Passage not practical for ships...... 205, 207 INOW eteler sieve ase eeln) o conus 634, 635, 637, ill. 633, 635, 636 Norway and Sweden, alternately friendly and un- MTA SIA iy ouste, secveeensveterersceisvelete ate vexocone: shave veh ofeaciove ckeets 125 INO tawiaiynESCCESSION COL PT OOSeeteie = ckeiele ol exercise) ofe\ouelel lus 125 Norway, Trondhjem | Cathedrals a5 scale deco ill. 86 “Nothing too much,” famous saying............. 630 Notre Dame Cathedral: France. .61, 81, ill. 87, 88, 113 INowiaiyial Lem by.arerc se iceesc\e ses ole sree ce) coco aha beisver se susieeereye 637 Nubia, Lower: Colossi of Rameses II at Abu Sima be late sv RG ees regn ees yao teks co. Uae Velen oes ie nee ill. 407 Nubians, Berbers are also known as: Egypt...... 403 INisiwanaE livas (Ceylon ce acct) ceieiete nie eeiener ire ose: 671 Nyborg, Island of Ftinen: Chateau............ ill. 159 Nymphs, Cave dedicated to Pan and the......... 623 Nyrop, Martin, creator of Copenhagen’s Town Hall 164 “@? @axacameCState)* eNlexi conn a... sleet cie.o nterceekeler el as 453 ODelISKAMWASI O10 SG. iopsie tay ctetals's oes leMelle wie eleton elezeds 41 eie's 545 Observatory, Harvard College, location of: Sua ill. 245 Ocean, Arctic, is a Mediterranean....205, ill. 208-210, Die Arik, 216 Ocean Carznecve ina heavy, S@a™\. aera. lee ai ill. 642 Octagonmelya Cathedral sec cieieeciereleoeaatee 77, Octagonal tower of the winds: Greece.......... ill. 595 Odeion, Ruin of the: Athens...............0-00- 582 Odense oD enmaiank:. 6 ate ee Operas,.. Danish. sonte.-s ; ters clearcs oss etele > eee 14! Ophelia in Shakespeare’s Hamlet............. 136, 140 Oporto, Portugal...... (color insert) Plates II-IV, VII, 516-533 Oracle, Home of ‘the: Greece.......-censeneeene 627 Orange Milkwort (Polygala lutea)....... 59 (color insert) Plate XVI, 36-53 Orange tree: Portugal............».. (color insert) Plate XV, 516-533 Oranges) Miexicoteersicie cients sieeietietere 460, 481, 487, 491 Oranges, Portuguese..... (color insert) Plates VI, XII, XV, 516-533 Oranges, Rarotonga: Penrhyn Island............ 679 Oration, Pericles on the unknown soldier: Site of 597, 602 Oratory coritests:) Athens. .... «<1 os stele sieieloieieieneee 582 Orchid, Yellow Fringed (Habenaria ciliaris). (color insert) Plate vr er 53 Orchids -Atistraliak ..cly-se0s mee» a aie oe sl he eee 674 Oregon, Crater: Lake... oo. Je. See Sele coe ee ill. 179 Organ’ cactus) Miexico:.. 4... cen ee screenees 485 Organ, Church of Santa Maria: Portugal........ 551 Origin, Nitrate: “heonries)..-1.- seein eee 221, 223 Onizabay Mit) WMiexicow assess ooeeieeioee 168, ill. 188 Ornaments, Bead and gold: Liberian féte day. ill. 421 Ornaments, Gold:) Africa, (North... 22. «ti ill. 363, 368 Ornaments, Gold, Portuguese girls wearing. . (color insert) Plate XIV, 516-533 Ornaments, Maptche;) Chile... .. - cj cewieeee 249, 252 Ornaments, Silver, Chilean Indian wearing....ill. 262 Otros, Mtss Greecen.cie scenes, 5 1 + oe eee 621 Orphans, Portugueses....-4 + 1-12 -eideroienenelereteiets ill. 504 Osler-. (Wim) Owote die... 60.6. sso e = sheroiein stekeren reer 313 Osornos ‘Chile iie sivas wees veroseys «sav setoretyene 258, ill. 268 @sorno, Mitus¥@lileg 5 si .'-!-1c0) o::-snel epee 259, ill. 266 Otters: Chile A na A Ee CG aa Bb bo OG aoc 272 @uled Nail vAmie Aciticalie 4.- «co serene ill. 368 “Our Lady of the Defile,’’ Greek monastery called 614, 616 Our Lady of the Flower: Florence, Italy...... ill. 108 Ox-cart) Chiles. tiie elusestote cntie@aorsuseen rohit 255, ill. 261 Ox-cant: > Greeces. sss cilsis cis kieisite s skency chaps aectee eee ill. 585 Oxccart, -Pontuewesessy. clerk ics slekensietien terion ill. 540 Ox-drawn boats: African bush.................. 341 Oxen: Beypt.c ss. cee ov cloeue cares oond echo eID 398 Oxen, Plowing with: Mexico. ~... 2.2... sie ill. 459 Oxen, Portuguese peasant’s fine team of.... (color insert) Plate XI, 516-533 Oyster beds, Pearl: Mexico.............0222000- 473 Oyvsters:) Chiles. ws wise teers eabtaws sana 241, 261 Ssip?? Pacific Ocean survey, 1905 to 1908...........--- 631 Pack ice, ‘Steamer ccaulmht tinwerseteeere eine i 2s Paco iditArcos, Portugalaccij.- 2. tore 515 Paddy-fields, Japanese...............++-0- ill, (274,278 Padua of Shakespeare. cies soo scree omerecrerieee 141 Pagan subscriptions against Christianity: Asia Minor (260. Ax IDs)ii icslasrersietere tie ey cee ete coekel oes 567 Paganism, Growing tendency of the new......... 164 Pageantry, Japanese in...... (color insert) Plate VIII, 282-299 Pago Pago, Tutuila Island....... 651-652, 685, ill. 678 Painters,* Damishts.../e ssvers aiccei si eiere hiner iets 163 Painting, Religious, over church doorway: Portugal (color insert) Plate VIII, 516-533 Palace, Chilean: Palacio de la Moneda........ ill. 246 Palace of Justice, Wisbone.... ac 2 cere eee 516 Palace, ‘Royal: Greéce.)... ...\i2ie o0:4c)-teeeiels See 577 Palaces Royal? {Stamis once. saci) one serene ill. 310 Palaces Rortugalemrrrcircm cle eine 508, 510, 516, 550 Palacio de la Moneda: Santiago, Chite Sa weaeee ill. 246 Palazzo MWecchio, Mlorence:... ..-.-) eect ill. 108 Palenque, Mexico: Maya ruins..............-. ill. 320 Palestine, Jews as farmers in..........---eee0e> 388 Palestine, Piping the Nile water to........... 383, 389 Palestine’s separation from Ottoman Empire..... 388 Palm! ‘Canyon, (Caltfornialis)...t ieee ill. 182 Palm nuts, Native gathering: Liberia. .ill. 426, 428, 429 Palm oil, Liberia exports.2.......0-cscs5s++s >= 424 Palm trees...... 239, 508, 652, ill 167, 1825702, 246, 250, 366, 402, 492, 512, 513, 535, 538, 678 (color insert) Plate I, 516-533 INDEX POR VORUME XUII, Page iIPalmerston Island.o. se. «0s Atel oie emere eda ost 681 Palms Chontas iitlaneMeriandezerc ssi rise 1 242 Pampa of the Ostrich, Andes Mountains......... 230 Pamphylan city ot Aispemdosi creer eeiteielerel cheeses 563 Pana Cavesworse Greece sicisenaees oie haces sei. 614, 623 Panama Canal, Carnegie passed through the: 1915, NOM Ose Kole heners eae owls ever oneal cr eheakoledstee ae 642, 665, 689 Panama Canal diverted trade from Punta Arenas.. 263 Raniamean Cityambaniamachrryal irri ioiee ckeiete ill. 316, 687 Panama Elealth campaign ine...) c aces. ill. 316, 324 IRanaman sYellows eVieT) ities siciene creiar el enereclevencnens 322 ammierss Cowhide: Chiletscicre cn sa «circ ence) ess e235 Ranocha,, Mexican Sweetimeat. .. 1.0 « . ere 491, ill. 480 SSATICIEGUES 5) CMTE. 5 sous steders loiter. .ous)'ss 6: creneiereleneveicl sale 239 Rantomime, Dares fond off. sso... as elsae 137, I41 Rantoppidan. Danish) wiritena cea. ven «cl cles ele elias 163 iIRanayas, eviananalete Dolaridisrs str oye:sctiesesisieie e+ one |e 685 Bameeten ea Bt tts 6-4 lees «16 -15)0 651 Petrograd, Russia: St. Isaac’s Cathedral....... ill. 96 lear eka (niles okocggcucocn0cccs1o0cGDFe 259 Peullaws ChilewSwissm lnm satire raiser iret the eoiatoreee 259 Phalerony 1Greeces ier siiey-isieleres-1ler-)eielosere) =) ke 5775 Ul. 622 PMEMEOS, AGECCCE ere rras sata terele ole ol opcloley.c (o/c) eiate| evelowe) = ill. 589 Phidias, directed building of the Parthenon coy ; 53; 07 Philippine Islands, Health campaigns in the.. .ill. 309, 326 Philippine Islands, Smallpox in the.............. 303 Ihocis; Gueece mise clerieleie ic) ctelehl terse) syeteuclale “erate 619 Pheenician craft, Portuguese fishing-smacks resem- NG. ononlongadsnooDODUDO bo OOON DDD OOODOE sno, ill, srr Pheenician traders, Camaroue, WMranCes. sis e eas I Pheenicians in Portugal MEd oars does teks iotetenete-oteverevs 510.533 Phonographs, Kru natives have: Africa.......... 430 Photographer, Alpine: Cavaliere Vittoria Sella ; (text) 434 Photographer, Birds indifferent to: Africa..... ill. 441 Priam, (Gace) WEGIOP) Gooockocboogdoucocd0ad 553, 563 Phrygians: Asia Minor........2...05.02s-5s%-~- 564 Phyle, Fortress of: Athens.............. 609, 610, 614 Physalia or Portuguese man-of-war............--- 689 Physical geography: Asia Minor............-- 5 BES Physicians, Testimonials of: China............ ill. 323 Pianos, Jungle: Angola, Africa............... ill, 432 Piassaba (fiber), Liberia exports...........++-- + 424 Piazza of Venice, tally: feccrerers eee ieieie ote he eres ill. 107 Pickerelweed (Pontederia cordata)...... 36 (color insert) Plate III, 36-53 Pictures, Hookworm disease...........++-+-+ 309, 312 PICTURESQUE SIDE OF JAPANESE LIFE (color insert) XVI plates, 282-299 Tries, NSIGIS UsusaleE os Sg6 asc b00nso00on soc DdOOSs loo EEE Pigs, Mexican children with pet...... soangeooolls 27 Rikezsbeales Colotadonmert- ise tel-rreileicrre ill 1875 195 Pillar hermits or “Stylites’”: Greece...577, 582, ill. 573 Pillar (Rocks: (Greece: .......-- 10-56: ill. 612, 613 IPillarswot Everctullesirrcictarrk- lel ercretotsiere sie) clatelot ier 505 Pilot-fish: North Pacific Ocean.............-00-- 642 IPOS ACS ao an owt Gbanoso po ocdnodsuoduaoosd 511 Pine boards used for currency: Chile............ 256 Pines treesiierenciver octane Were arto) eo neres or ele 257. il si875 290 Binexs Whitebarker qs -.2 ised. oie re rere 166, ee 185 Pink Corydalis (Capnoides sempervirens).....- Keele insert) Plate xT? 36- 53 Pink Family (Corn Cockle)...54-55 (color insert), Plate VII, 36-53 Bileanearls me VlexciC onsite teil teletereieketei are toren 473 Pipe, Bedouin smoking his: Algeria........... ill. 367 Pipe, Camargue man with his................. Wl, QF Pipe, Liberian native smoking his............. ill. 416 Pipes, Egyptian water- CSimolan's) Seer ereiercreier 300 Piping the Nile water to Palestine.......... 383, 389 Pireus, Greece.......-....++-0- 5765, 623, 025, ile S75 Rirenes spring, Greeces sao. - aie 422-423 Press, Egyptian: mativeiscisicc > s olen ane ioteea een 328 Queen Margaret: Denmark and Norway (1397). 125 Queen Maud Glacier, Spitsbergen........:.'..... 6 “Queen of Minsters,” England’s: Lichfield Cathe- ral: -tiecsc shecora ts. Save elteaad eoliane overolehere Wohi chee ear ie ieaannane ill. 66 Queues; Indians wear: Chiles. -o. -men: cat aaah 252 Quichua word aucca, Araucanian derived from the 249 Quinine, Cinchona trees source oOf...........-.- 192 Quinine, Malarial patients treated with.......... 321 Ouito, Ecuadom: ). 0. sees Je ree 237, ScR22, Raadhus, or Town Hall, Copenhagen.......... ill, 120 Raben-levitzau, Count and Countess: Denmark... 161 Races, African native: Types....... ill. 363, 367, 368, 3715 375°387 Races, Easter Island natives contest.........- 654, 663 Races, Liberian natives may be divided into three 429 Racial types, Egypt has many.......... 383, 393, 401 Racks, Codfish-drying: Norway............-.. ill. 635 Raftsmen, Japan, running the rapids (color insert) Plate XII, 282-299 Railroad: Attica), (Centrallycys-ieteeierei tein ill. 336 Railroad, Athens to Kephisia: Greece.........-.. 602 INDEX FOR VOLUME XLII, 1922 XXV Page Railroad, Chile’s longitudinal..219, 221, 239, 243, 259 Railroad. Chilongo to Sankisia:) Africas... 0.2 343 Railroads 1erossing) Wenmankyets evet- is) cieiele clererolete ill. 146 Railroad, Desert: Cairo-to-Jerusalem......... 389, 392 Rairoads, FSy pt tO SV Gidia oc isieosueletels henner else cue ill. 389 Railroads, ‘WransanG ine’... « «soiree taeee «oe 27a illanzz7o Reailcoad.. -Drans-Sibenian's. 4.2 circ aes «be recs ZUL 207, Railroad, South America’s first (1851)..........- 227 Railways and Thermopyle!: Greece..........-00% 618 Reepisaecal eA Stal NT TMO ys sree here clerek« «cic sions 469 Raimiall-peSamoanelslandseanssciereciectcu ice iciers 652 Rainy season: Africa, Centrale s cee «cre ectehe ce 663 Ranunculus, Alps have some species of.......... 168 Rapanue sore Master Usland ters . svete o < (text) 143 Rene apaiG) Im) TICes JApate s sia (SCCHES 1c eicicic ois cle ietel= ctoie te ill. 360, 431, 439 Ithodian school of art: Asia Minor...<.......4.... 562 eMOtie = RIVEhy, | EB RAMICC) oro cais slersiete cs dias eee 6-0 0 4ie-2 I Rib Grass (English Plantain)....36 (color insert) Plate II, 36-53 Ribe, Denmarl:: Street scene... cee... secs asics ill. RRICE-CUIEMEC? JAPALLo 215 s1elelolcteneie olelele cls 2909, ill. 274, Oe Tassnee Wis aOacccsuccotaqvouauD00GdGuC 481, 152 278 485 Page faRice-heldm= planting, sonesa+. JApAallesiss - 1 see 2) 299 Rice harvest, Festival of the: Japan............. 282 Rice-producing country, Japan third most impor- GATIE tI cw Ot Ais saverevere ote ets ta eal ers tocalencleve, srovayeie 2) ele 299 Richelieu (Admiral), de: Denmark.............. 161 Richmond County, Virginia, Hookworm disease in 312 Ricksecker Point, Mt. Rainier National Park, Government road at: Washington........... ill. 176 Rifaiyeh Mosque, Minarets of: Cairo......... ill. 380 Ritlessey ochonelG eum PAbetianocisieeleit-ii.s lee oteine tee 416 Riomdemilanei;omGbtazi) eerie eee ee eee eerlee 242 Ripple Grass (English Plantain)..36 (color insert) Plate II, 36-53 River Douro; Portugal... ... (color insert) Plates LIL, EV;. Vis 16-533 Raven Goddesswa lia paticveni ys steer ee cies clrratnroteere 281 River, Greece’s largest: The Peneios....... (text) 613 River, Hozu, Japan..(color insert) Plate XII, 282-299 Riv etyale ala see Nuits Cay tayeuanel olercreierclevet tetas te 342, 345, 346 River Luapula, Africa, A tributary of the..... ill. 358 Rivers plates ¢SouthyAmenica) meee ciereeeiieiciee ce 666 River Potomac, Washington, D. C............ ill. 197 Rivers hagus, Portugalen 45055) 521, 503-5245 585s) 5525 ill. 506-509 Raverside’ County, . Californian... 6+ 22 1-1/2 ete > ill. 182 Rivieras Greek co smettonauhe a0 ashe Aasoecoens 621, 623 Riviera, Portuguese..505 (color insert) Plate I, 516-533 Road, Aztec conquerors’: Mexico...........e.+0. 491 Road-building, African bush, Difficulties of..332, 335- 337, 341, ill. 337-340 Road-building, Liberia, Difficulties of........ 425, 427 Road, Government: Mt. Rainier National Park, Wels im et orate staryst care lcteta tee os Sckerehera eles ter sieloneis. she ill. 176 Road sign ‘‘22 miles to Tupelo,” Mississippi. ..ill. 330 Roadmsy stem eASia NiO tc. eetoreke tench erste > @ eels) atone 567 Road si) a Chil en aste separe esc nyscie (e lerover succene sence wim eelies oye 255-25 INoadss MGreeki2.20). 5 c.elevexsets sherscsiets acre cee ell Ore 620 Rloadss: liberias needs. .cie'ere, cncus are ls leiotere’ oi sue eh oetere ss 424 Robberecrabsss Fanning. Wslarmdeya site) orem tele tele 677 Roberts, Joseph Jenkins: Liberia’s 1st president... 422 Robinson Crusoe memorial: Juan Fernandez..ill. 243 Robinson Crusoe’s Isle famous for lobsters....241-242 Rocio (square) ley ishott since oe coe 540, 541 Rocio, or Praca de Dom Pedro Quarto, Lisbon, PO tea ee eh vavcr atin orcl esateeset Gavashoca tous uebeve exe 1 53 6sE5e7 Rockmcanvingscusrvaster. liclarcien price ciel sei cle teree 663 Rock wchitchess .eappadocianiaereriis «ricer oer 563 Rock, Pulpit: Cape of Good Hope, Province, IAGERICA™ ea dregsisnctober Astrea nvaceg gocirerahietacey lous eu shortens ill. 446 Rock temple, Abu Simbel, Lower Nubia....... ill. 407 Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. .ill. 181, 190 R¢gdding, Denmark, First people’s high school Roxb halal Yelumsolom Gicy 7) akan aed Gedo dh oot ooo OOc 143 “Rolling-motion Square,” Lisbon....541, ill. 536, 537 Roman Basilica and plan of the Romanesque GLEN El OYA Boe eS ses RBS Hearne een aie deine ere a ond Bi II! Romane provinces ottgalesarrrstereletereneeeereretre ariel: 505 Romanesque churches: Architecture............. III Romans) Asia Minor inyured by thes... .. 1-1-1 557 IRopeOeAG tha IRONS Goonoaudooo00000G0 ROR, sh SEO Romans introduced the stage in the modern sense 582 Rome, Italy: St. Peter’s..............-..--:- ill. roo Roosevelt (Pres) in: Denmark assassins 123-124 Rope:making:. "Chile as sy steise/4 1s onsets = = ill. 260 Rope-walk, fChilean! primitive: 22... cele se ill. 260 ROSamlon Wiexic Omer ero heir tel Tein eielonaleroiaie 499 Rose Family (Purple Avens)....54 (color insert) Plate VI, 36-53 Rosemallow, Crimson-Fye (Hibiscus oculiroseus) 56 (color insert) Plate VIII, 36-53 Rosencrans, Danish) ediplomat rte. oil -leereterel i 136 Roskilde, Denmark, schools at................6. I45 Ross (Sir James): Antarctic Regions, 1842..646, 647 Ross (Maj.), Ronald: British army surgeon..315, 319 Ross Sea, Antarctic RESIONS HA rete ae ine cme 644 Rouen Cathedral: ee einen De oe a ill. 84 obras, Selliiiie keys Co gsobognagcpoasccuacoas 564 Round- “Ip Camnargie:s: ROG eOm ems) joker mieicieinis 5, 24 Route map, “Carnegie” CSHip) Mid avckct te oe ete 634 Routes AirapOk (tie etucune eee tear 205, map 206 Routes, Atlantic passenger liners vary their...... 207 Royal ‘Company Nslandsm@Australia) eases 675 Royal) Copenhagen) pottenyen-< oe e or WI, ll seo Royal @pera House) Copenhasent.. 3... os. = 137 Rovaleebalacee AthenSect ce ce on cee ee er 577, Royal ‘Palace; Petchaburi, Siam. oss ill. 310 Royal penguins: Antarctic Regions........... ill. 668 Royal Procession, Copenhagen................ lean Royal “Theater, Copenhagen. 2.02. ..es an. < oe ill. 118 XXVI Page Riandamoantam|i1Stasmlsisbon-meias «aiecsiniperccis ares 6 540 Rubber, Angola, ExportSiacs. sele- secs seve creer ce 505 Rubber tree roots growing through a wagon wheel ill. 191 Rubbers replaced by wooden clogs: Chile..255, ill. 259 Rug, Bedouin cameleer resting on his......... ill. 367 ERC eG Oa LNG Talatere) aleyedn aievetem a ievors ip alecs'e awe e's bie bh 05 Ruins: INGHET IMT evop eee = 2a Ae TE ill. 566 RUINS eA ZEEC AMexICOA- -stciteriieien nie Disine eleveieee ill. 321 ANGINS PFU SV Platts sis:0 a eelelacicra oe es ill. 372, 373, 404-407 Ruins: Greece........ ill. 573, 576, 579-581, 583, 584, 586, 588, 592, 598, 604-606 Ras ae Vay alee VEX ICOlisreieistavaiaicrchelcle clelele| cle tere) eis ill. 320 Ruins, Mexican monastery: FE] Desierto....... ill. 462 RUINS eS PaAntaeanG ACHES. ss xc c a biceseceale ss wore 575 Runs Zimbabwe: Rhodesia. .... 0c. scce ese ill. 431 Riera METI ARGS |e ayer et clele oe) wleiayeilel el oe leans Onl 27, RATERS hey Sey tiSloiere cielelerciarc siviclaicisicvelnrs 383, 387, ill. 407 RGISKSaee SCAN GINavaanieslejaicn ciel cisieie viaieielelersrs 125, 129 Rural Japan, Some Aspects of By Walter Weston 275 Rural scenes: Camargue, France. .ill. 2, 3, 6-8, 10-18, 32 Rualeiscenes: Denmarlsi. 2%... 5) sis «0s ill. 146-148, 150 Rural scenes: Greece...... ill. 585, 611, 626, 628, 629 Russia, Petrograd: St. Isaac’s Cathedral...... ill. 096 Nussiasto,. Canada, Air, routes from.....<.....0«. 217 Russian Caucasus, Scenes in the....ill. 171, 172, 188 RUISSiatueChtinchis wAvaslcapsieree 6 clelcieie eleteteielerelcrcyoie ill. 643 Ruwenzori Mountains, Africa....ill. 180, 184, 434-438 SSG 82 Sacred Way from Eleusis: Greece...... 575, 616-617, 618, 623, ill. no8 Saddle, Cowboy: Camargue, France.......... TO, ill: Saddleptnaviels (Chile Nerec.c..c:.ebv crea occlavereicl coevsieseretotete oe Saddles, Thorn-proof: Mexico........... 485, ill. 458 Sagaswulcelandgland! ofp semes ccs a. ce cess le 639, 641 Sahraram Descente tacts srs och antes oreccieee ote 665, ill. 365-367 Sailboats, Wenmank...cis15 velte nile reer ee cls We 22n ere 7, Sailhoatswn Greek mcnisrycclotolacs cs oeraieletn estes ecole ill. 587 Sailboats Nile Rivero. ec cle ccteieie ee ill. 407, 408 Sailboats) INORWaAVit ulcers bers oe lunes bene OM oer ill. 633 Sailboats-m bOntu gall. «cls ole sie ets ill, 506-508, 511, 552 Sailboats: Portugal’s square-sail and _ twin-sail boatsernrc 1 (color insert) Plates IV, VII, 516-533 Sailboats Ruodes: selanbor Oly. sees cereale ole « ill. 569 SAILING THE SEVEN SEAS IN THE IN- MERE STOR SCIPNCE.) (BY Ji; RP. AULT 12. 1631 Sailing vessel, Carnegie was primarily a.......... 635 Sailor) Denmark's ruler isiagood....... 20.4.6 ill. 127 Sailors, American: Portugal. ....... 1. ill. 534, 537 SailorsseNlexicanm Navas craic ci wire career ill. 457 St. Alban, Mount: Washington, D. C...... 61, Sr, (or, ill. 60 St. Andrew’s Cross: Wells Cathedral.......... il74 St), Birgettas =Sweden.ss occ es esac stoe sete bine 125 Ste.Cosmos Chapel siGreece.)..'s% acne. ts lenelele 623 St. Cuthbert, Cathedral of: Durham........ ill. 64, 65 St.erancis Xavier, Hiesta ‘of:. Mexico. = =... 458 StuiGeorge, Castlesior- Portugale. 2. asc. oes 515, 547 St) Georee, (Chapel) of:) Athens. ...).)..1..'. soos Mls 72 St. George, Convent of: Greece.............. ill. 5809 Stepbtelemanlslan dic csstesetotckactors cre rvevche recs 667, 660, 688 Stapisaaces Cathedrals: (Russian ..-ricter ed arielets sere i 06 St) Jerome, Monastery. of: Portugal..<......: «1. 551 St. John the Divine, Church of: New York City 111 St. John’s-Wort, Golden (Hypericum aureum GBartr)) Gesu ice ea es 53 (color insert) Plate V, 36-53 St. Mark’s Cathedral, Venice........... Wie ill: 107 St. Olaf, Burial place ‘of: Trondhjem Cathedral.ill. 86 St. Paul in Greece, Site used by..... 597, 625, ill. 579 StaeaulewRivien. sl ibemiaal. . cris carsnis oicistele 423, ill. 425 St. Paul, Site of the mission of: Asia Minor..ill. 566 Steaules mCathed rally = We omd ome oy elleie afeleocleters's ill. 79 Sie Pauls) Without the Walls at Rome. .).......- wT St retensy Cathedral. Romen.-cacec see « 111, ill. 100 “St. Peter’s” of Mexico: Cathedral........... ill. 110 St. Sophia, name means Holy Wisdom.......... 591 St: Stephen’s Cathedrals Austria teresa. cient ill. 97 St. Swithin, Choir dedicated to: Winchester Cathedral ta csnoeteeesrelesinty see eee eects mine ees 72 Stapvancent,. British West Indies... 2.2.21... ill. 308 Ste.’s Maries de la Mer, France. .32, ill. 23, 26, 28, 33 Saints, children named for: Chile...) \.. «6. = 253 Saints Peter and Paul, Cathedral of: Washing- OMI a ID) oon Care faive Jo:zocu och oes (one) scape Give eters, 0 61, 81, gt, ill. 60 Salamis, Island of: Greece......... 571, 576, 591, 592, 602, 616, 618, 625, ill. 605 Salisburys Cathedral: Hnglande ss 24-). 6s eee il.-75, 76 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Page Salmon: Icelandics sivtiaseseslsien oil's oo): ssn eee 641 Saloniki, Alexandria, Egypt was a war base for.. 393 Saloon evils, Denmark does not have............ 123 Salt deposits: Chilean’ Puego........-++snaeu ane 273 Salt moor: Camangties sie cilciivs sca cieie create ene 4 Salt-water river, Bosporus)\a....... sce eee eee pad Salta, Argentina sidtew alsld cteteun plates vine ce ee Samoan Tslandsinrrcieenn 652, 685, ill. 678, 679, 682 Samos Island: Asia Minor.........+.>.ssenae 553 Samothrace, Island of: Asia Minor.....2...snen 553 Samr or acacia treees: Egypt......>+s«s +See 406 Samurai, Japanese in pageantry recall days of the (color insert) Plate VIII, 282-299 San Antonio, Mount;-Calitornia. ©... ssn ill. 187 San Blas.) Mexico. so ssmiene ss 481, 485, 502-503, ill. 479 San. /Blas;' Mexteo "(Old)ios no. 5 wcic o's sis octet nee ill. 490 San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina............. 259 San Cristobal Hill; Santiago, Chile....-.-sse8e ill. 245 San Francisco, California........... 654, ill. 684, 686 San |lgnacio) River, Mexicos.. «oc. 1. 451s eee 460 San ‘Luis d’Apra, Guant... Men: (Cairo tent-makers........00..¢. ill. 374 Shackleton (Sir), Ernest: South Georgia........ 647 Shakespeare, William, in Denmark.............. 136 Shakespeare’s castle of Elsinore............... ill. 156 Siakespeare’s, LUGE ve .o.6.c<.6 « cveyoresoecs @ ue sies 6 136, 140 Shakespeare’s Midsummer Night’s Dream........ 140 Shantune Province, China: Dentist: .......... ill. 322 whauks- Nott PAcilic | OCEanin. +.) she.+ sole eieiecsene si ¢ 642 Sawer Ox bbs: OUuGted Stn oieacrete «. « ccorevs. syateusheeal oS eet es IQI Shearing, After: New, Zealand... 6.0 «0» + «sisi ill. 650 PH CE POPS) 41 GKECCE a lessee orelas c.ensvereveus eteistoe/eiaia si eis she 616 SHEEP aster, USlAIMd se entra ve lote lore 1orcike chee sole cetteses 654 Sleep erazing. winolands. «.c,27:1s16 sasreiets eter te ieiels ill. 77 HEED Gree CO a oravcss eres tatele oisiinie, syeieierersi ene = ill. 628, 620 SHEEP spel Cel AI Cai, oes vec ier tre. wee REELS ees ere ete eve 641 Sheep industry: Punta Arenas...... 262, 263, 272-273 Sheep Laurel, Lambkill or (Kalmia angustifolia) 55 (color insert) Plate VII, 36-53 sheepzs News) Lealandec gyre cero cicrcineie ers aroape ill: 650 Sheep Sorrel (Rumex acetosella)....... 36 (color insert) Plate II, 36-53 Sheep Mierra, del. PUegOs sie. accesses seis cis os > scl 219 Sheepskin ‘‘chaps,’’ Portuguese shepherd wearing (color insert) Plate XII, 516-533 Shell-ish amdustry< (Chiles ict. 21rd she one ZEQn) 201 272 Shell Flower (Turtle-Head)..... 58 (color insert) Plate XIII, 36-53 Shelley (Percy Bysshe): Quoted........... (text) 578 Shetling, cocive: Heyiiters ccc «csc octela aeaee eee seoolll, Boy Shepherd and shepherdess, Portuguese..... (color insert) Plate XII, 516-533 SHEPHELUS | GLECCOas ti acsicne eee slees ill. 618, 628, 629 Shetland, ponies: Wceland: ss... tcc es sicec 0 6 eleeusts 641 siticlds, “Abyssinian wattietsie.-o0s¢ + ores. a6 ill. 376 Shikibu, Murasaki: Japanese poetess........ (text) (color insert) Plate IV, 282-299 Shilluk Warrior, Anglo-Egyptian Sudan....... le 377, SHIMANO LOVITICes A APAlls.: sexe, car eee cee coe eee 282 Shinran-Shonin, Buddhist mass celebrated by fol- lowers of: Japan....(color insert) Plate II, 282-299 Shinshu Buddhism, Celebration in honor of foun- der of: Japati.-.... (color insert) Plate II, 282-299 Shinto priests: Japan..(color insert) Plate IX, 282-299 DINO Surilie, EZ um10, PApatl . 2 s.c.00 ce aisle e850 U.clsis,« 282 DID COTNCLIC sc a cis oe tine ill. 642-644, 646, 666, 667 SEG LITTON CU Ge re eae Oo Ordos ee abe ill. 655 Slips at Copenhagen’s free port.........2..0: ill. 116 PIS e | MS KECCE fire ole a Aa dooce ie hs hs eta i575 . Simpler’s Joy (Blue Vervain)... 1922 XXVII Page ShipsemEOxtiigalism sees eee > cite isieine ill. 506, 507, ie Shoemaker’s son founded schools in Denmark. .142- 143 Shops,) Street of: Asia’ Minor......--25.525.-. ill. 568 Showalter, William Joseph. Map-changing Medi (TUN 66000 005 06 bn DODO DOA ADO O NDA A aa ne 303 soe ill. 484 Sleepinemcicicniess: Atricase tics ool iil ec 34 Sluice-gate: Camargue drainage system........ il: 0 Smallest expedition against the enemy: European VAT WeiWe cuciare see crau aavee oe cpenaceehciisne e Sinvere Gh eee eS 331 Smallpox, Campaigns) against.. «6.2.1... er 03s 307 3 Smallpox, India was a hotbed of: World War. 303 Smith (Sir), Ross: Air trip from England — to VAMISET ALIA. Scusidyers suats owls sucteuone otoneas steele noretoren si chewsrcus 218 Smokines bacitica islands natives dsc ete 6890 Smyrna, Asia Minor: Scenes...ill. 555, 556, 558, 559 Smyrna’s sea trade diverted to Eg Sy Discs aes 388 Snails: Hdible= Prancesa.e cee ceases ill. 25 Snake-charmers, Bey pty has ciccan, sre.are o's 5 ofl cronies = 3900 XXVIII Page Snake Head (Turtle-Head)...... 58 (color insert) Plate XIII, 36-53 Shake rat-catcher: Mexico, ...0..0.0.cse0% 496, ill: 489 SmakesseG lio pe ataiiae sic\era ace sie occ e se e'e's eve 689 Snipewouptahassabtndanteciscl. + c.s «ciel s «ce ob «1 398 Snow peak, Ruwenzori mountain: Africa...... ill. 434 Snow scene, Lincoln Memorial in Winter: Wash- manors IDs (Cog SRG CAGOIRIS OOS eo ae a ill. 199 Snow scenes, Mountain peaks and....ill. 166, 169-180, 186-188, 194 Snow, Siberia has less permanent snow than Mexi- CANMEMOUN LAIN Setererereie eiess) cies orevcvsi-s vik cnlela aleve sieves ee 213 SUOMMEELCES SANUS EN cle ects oc s..,.26 24+ 6 + ssleve ill. 376 Speedeew Mi rrotbles’ sce 5 chc0scsic, oS teue save ele Othe eeueee thee 209 Speke, J. H.: Discoverer of Lake Victoria, 1858 (text) 440 Speke (J. H.) located source of the White Nile, MO OME TEM tote !< ate ollsl stehetevalavsteaseteeea sie die easmeere eke 407 Speke, Mount, Ruwenzori Range, Africa...... ill. 180 Sphinx: Egypt FAR cub ats UR RO ELLER MMO SERS ill. 404 Spicessue\ialayvan simon. ass «uct cues pose ee ce 505 Spiderwort, Virginia (Tradescantia virginiana) 53 (color insert) Plate IV, 36-53 Spiminimereottom: Asiay Minot... . 2+... 2c. .ceae ill. 565 Spinning wheel, Georgia mountain home with. .ill. 306 Spire, Cast-iron: Rouen Cathedral:........... ill. 84 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Page Spire, English church: Copenhagen........... ill. 142 Spires, Cathedral....ill. 66, 76, 78, 84, 97-99, 103, 104 SpitSDengena. cicksicin sisieieiereiete 213, 637, 639, ill. 212, 640 Sponges, Vegetable: Norway....sscscccreoscsvcus 637 Spoonbill: Egyptian sudd swamps..........-+e++ 408 Sport, Arctic: Roping beanie ico nici lc »clsteleieie ate ill. 213 Sports: Ball-kicking game, Japanese... (color insert) Plate III, 282-299 -ill. 539 (color insert) Plate V, 516-533 Sports: Bull-fights, Portugal. Sports: Camargue’s native......ssccce 5, 20-25, 28-29, uly FeacOseee Sports,| Chile’s transplanted: ....5:...0.++sasenam 249 Sports,) Danish, girls\excel “inc. eee eee (text) 143 Sports: Easter’ Islandl.ckic «ae cou oe see eee 654, 663 Sports); Mexicosn descr ctacieece ccien nee ill. 456, 470, 500 Spring’ Pirene:’ Greece! .... 2). '¢ «ss: edie «ae se eee 625 Spur-winged geese: Africa.......sscsscccccecses 347 Spurs,) Chilean sancher’sacis.. «ise os setae ene ill, 257 Spurs, Hand-forged: Camargue.......-2+2 feeeen 19 Squaw Mountain, Colorado, View from Window Ledge’ Omi voreitere ccs aire tetera ete eee ere ill. 169 Stadiumes tAthenserr erste sleeve ieee 607-608, ill. 599 Stadium, Copenhagen’s municipal............. ill. 134 Stage, Romans introduced modern idea of the.... 582 Stamboul’s sea trade diverted to Egypt.......... 388 Stamps, Rapanui: Haster’ Islands... 4. sacs eaten 665 Standard {Oil Company, Canada. ...26-5 eee 217 Stanley, Henry M., African mountains ascended Yih esaleeceiee 455) whe tatloarmicte elevaletorete te oteee tee rererene (text) 184 Stanley, Mounts: Atpica. oer ill. 434, 438 Stars, Taking observations by: Carnegie......... 666 Station, Railroad) Egypt to) Syfia-cilecetrsiere ill. 389 Stations; «Railroads: Chiles... ill. 242, 248, 259, 272 Statues, Mysterious: Easter Island.............. 663 Statues of Memnon at Thebes..............-: ill. 372 Steamer, caughtiini packiice. ..-)-1-1- 11 -lel eee ill, 215 Steamer, Nile flat-bottomed, paddle-wheel...... ‘4 403, ill. 408 Steamers siouez Canals cteicriacei cree ill. 388, 390, 392 Steamship line, Valparaiso to Liverpool.......... 263 Steamship line, Valparaiso to New York......... 227 Stefansson, Vilhjalmur. The Arctic as an Air Route sof tthe. Puture sc. «cscs. <0 clotn tore 205 Stegomyia fasciata, mosquito and yellow fever 323, 325 Stele of Hegeso: Greeces. os oc.0e no ecient ill. 577 Stelest-Amerent: “Athens isis sss 0. chee neem 602 Stellenbosch;,’ Africas. cic. +s «cs» al sine cle cieceeraelenete 669 Stepladder, Mother Necessity invents a: Portugal (color insert) Plate XV, 516-533 Steps, Stone: Affife, Portugal...... (color insert) Plate IX, 516-533 Stevedore, Gen. Flores once a: Mexico.......... 482 Stevenson, Robert Louis: Old home, Vailima.... 685 Stiff Yellow Flax, Broom or (Linum medium C2OPAD)) 65.508 065 54 (color insert) Plate VI, 36-53 Stiles (Dr.), Charles Wardell, and the hookworm GISEASE. aia siatert «okey Liecer cverouorere RooCKel ee teveloxene nena 312 Stirrups, Hand-made: Camargue, France........ 19 Stoal of the Athenians. .teleteirceieretalsiatie eine tite 630 Stockholms: Sweden. .< << 5 shel scsjalere cueisicne «einen TR Stone image, Prehistoric:; Chiles. .:....-5s ss ill. 227 Stone of Scone: Westminster Abbey.......... ill. “70 Stone! terracesis Waster clan dirercempekeltelsirelder teins 235 Stor JEjond.. Spitsbergen: terri cleastekslsiene teenie 637 Storks: Egyptian sudd swamps..............-- «+ 408 Sjrosaiy Srhael Wratnagaananeanncodcoebos coos" ill. 402 Storm, -Dropicall Ai nical elevate < os) attelet tte etme 347 Storms: Antarctic Regions.................- 649, 651 Storms: Chilés.22 aes ce eerycittotlnrs oe crsieietn eaten eae Story-tellens’? (Clubs Caicos. a. scm « piste era ill. 381 Story-tellers, Egypt has professional...... es enene 399 Strait of Magellan............. 259, 262, ill. 267, 269 Strassburg Cathedral: Alsace-Lorraine......... ill. 99 Strata, African: Cape of Good Hope Province ill. 442 Strategic points: Polar Regions............... 1. 217 Straw, saline: Camareues s. o. -in olism iy ere Strawberries: (Chiles scr. oc «10000 oe 1s ne or neon .. 258 Street-car conductors, Women: Chile.......... ill. 240 Street of Lysicrates, Athens......... 0. cee 582 Street of the Tripods, Athens: Site of........... 82 Street of Tombs, Cerameicus: Athens..... 602, ill. 578 Streets, Elevators connect: Valparaiso....... 239, 241 Strikes, Denmark troubled with............-. 161, 164 Striped mullet: Mexico........-.-+sseeeeeeees s+ 499 Students, Koran: (Cairo io. ose =. erie ill. 387 Students, University of Copenhagen.......... ill. 132 INDEX FOR VOLUME XLII, Page Stylite amonastery: (Greece sexs cn eie w ele, ahora «i oiiere a= ill. 612 “Stylites” or pillar hermits: Greece..577, 582, ill. 573 Subscriptions against Christianity, Asia Minor GoGo Aer Tare a Sse aista eocestenasiin ohare: ave OGis Diane ae eletolonete 567 Submarine, German: Wiberia.a: 1. se os eee ill, 498 del-el-Kebir, Battle of: Eeypt.....-..--..-.-- 387, 392 Telegraphic’ system; Chile's 42 125 = 1.5% sce eee 227 slembwer Bay. wake Tanganyika... s2+speeen. oe 354 Memperatures Arctic (Circle.ac +s. see eeseeee 212-213 Temperature: Cape Town, South Africa....(text) 672 Memperatureseucelands..4 . csrosas ene, Seoe eee: 631 Memperatureoruice-loese.. .n+44.0ee6- onsen oes 211 Memperatucews Sumner eee eee ete 211-213 dhemplegiathe Mel pnts svass seis A271 c/10'. ois See 630 empleo mi lindusmEajialslattdsseei. se ee ss see ee ill. 328 Temple of Aphrodite, Ruins of: Greece.......... 617 Temple of Luxor: Papyrus-bud columns....... 376 Temple of the Tooth, Kandy, Ceylon............ 670 Temple, Rock: Abu Simbel, Lower Nubia...... ill. 407 Temple scenes, Japanese........... (color insert) Plates II, IV, 282-299 Mem COss Chale) syetek ofr acetone « one 249, ill. 259, 261 Tenedos, island pote Asian Viinote talc stele eee one 553 AHennmistsrGhileansie play steve cst sebcleae no eee cee cee 249 Tennyson loved water above all elements........ 616 MennysonmCAliredseord)); Ouoteds.....e os eee .- 205 MEN OS pe USlamidecOn wei stevsi ie ciel e oka ciorsvors So CePA SRC 621 ent makersca ol sy ptecite ce vacte cnt acts cae ee oe ill. 374 hentonmBeleian= boat) series ee ene ee 354 Tequila, Mexico’s poor not denied.............. A4QI hermite yon white: ant-lill: Atricas... 2.655200. ill. 333 CLA @INIO’ Oia (Slip) cyeraraeyersie sie ea eke 1 eee ill. 655 sheTrraces eA ericulturales Yapaniee sete ieee eee 276 (herraces eel ciersel splendid ae ae eiae eee ill. 364 Terracing, System of: Asia Minor.......... 5575550 Terreiro do Pago, place of the palace: Lisbon.... 516 Terrestrial Magnetism Department at Watheroo, PSMASEY AAT eee ct sis ete ieescv neta 6 STOR ESe Oe a 674 DETHONE ICOMID)aisccneroiotecs Cierra eee 647 Wertiaryaperiods: (Chileaacei eee. sie ce Se ee ee ere 239 Meruele Provincenotcn Opalnmntic cei eeieeeereer cite 513 Testimonials, Chinese physicians’............. i 323 Tetrachloride of carbon substituted Hs thymol.. 305 Thackeray (William Mae Beate) in Greecen ese cae 574 Thatched hut: Japan....(color insert) Plate XIII, 282-2909 Thatched huts: Africa. .ill. 334, 351, 418, 419, 428, 445 Thatched root home: Schleswig.) .-%..0-.2--- Wi, rss hatchedsroot. ehilippine shut with. cess eee ill. 309 Theater at Delphi RR CEG Ca ESIC CRO OCR OOS E Oe 630 Theater at Ephesus, Asia Minor: Ruins....... ill. 566 Wheater, Copenhagen’s Royal.........ss0se nee ill. 118 Theater, Danish, a national institution...137, 140-141 Wheater Dona WMariallil le isbotmes= sre aee 541, ill. 536 dheatera Greek pAspendos ah Mausolus..c 2)... 2). ,<10j0.0 0. 563 Tombs, Street of, Cerameicus: Athens....602, ill. 578 Rongarevar Ghenrhy ne lslamd)lerersie ete «lei cbeler ere clese 679 ANOMICH Is jE NUEKAC OW ac): ar0isre te ertvegs elie leds eleva oictces Gretcte 480 Top grass (Eriphorum) Wy Re ech Since enet ceca eaten teers ill. 214 “Topio”’: Chilean cowboy’s game..... 248-249, ill. 264 Topolobampo, INIESCIC Oereteicrersneterotoiele elelo muai te uslelnhe re clic 487 MORCHESHOEHeCIOs) “ATTICA. sete ness sa ee et et ere ill. 435 ALOT NECK CORY testorerslalsteveieniereverels\slereVelielerercer cue? sustete 481 Torrent, Swift-flowing mountain.............. ill; 173 MontillasseWexicam's.si. esis »\e sees 483, 493, ill. 478, 486 Tou-Tou (motor boat)........ 333, 343, 345, 347, 354, 356, 359, 361, 362, ill. 355 Moursy Cathedrals Ol rancescycis se cle cere e'cieisieielc jae 1 Ss Mower wAngels. Canter buryewcisicjsi-1s 1016 cle ose ole © = 2) Sr Tower ot Belem: Portugal... sc). 30. ©0102 s)0.010 + 510 Mower of the Winds: Athens: ..-:.-..-... -\.«- ill. 595 Mower bisa caning- es Utaly lav. sclelale i oie sie) < e110 ill. 102 Dower Washington Cathedraliy 2. ice. cis e 81, 91 Towers, Cathedral........ ill. 62-64, 67, 73,.77, 82-85, ee ee Towers, Copenhagen’s... ll nL 20,402, 156 Town Hall, Copenhagen. . eee ite ths Shermer ease on tece scope etek 164 Tractors: African bush..... B96 33% 341, ill. 338, 339 Trade channels between Egypt and Christian world 388 Trade-markets, Asia Minor’s system Okieave ier srotelare - 559 ‘rade routes, Changes in. old =). jj... ccc e+ nis 388 Trading with Easter Island natives.........----+ 654 Tradition, Egyptian...... ts OR IS ct LEMIRE Peo (text) 372 sisraCitlOneetGTeekiaatet-/ ate ciate «sie ciels © cietele’eolsislelsheioieiels 560 Tradition of Shakespeare’s Hamlet......++..++0- 136 Meavehveione, IDEA esagué00cn00s0dobopoObOn OOO 161 Traditions, Lutheran Church, thrown off by Danes 123 Traffic, River Nile: Egypt............+- ill. 394, 408 MGA EHIES SOME MAS Ca cnet o1s0e elelateyclo o)escilene lel obec oie 679 MralswOldssbibleslands 1s cris cee clos sels lets eieue + 383 avreavin, (Cloulk-ein lesa so ucou sono do Oooo osoUaG ill. 225 MrainveRailwaye, Heyipt tO. Sylar. .\. ole istcle bei) 21e\- ill. 389 Training Camps, eNatunerse misnii-iter serio talcnerejsioreye 185 Training for farm women, Practical: Denmark... 149 rami wayemiRins cots GreeCenni. ce © alcleleeinisiolere siete 625 Transandine flight, pislors have successfully dared Mtherjsie cles cere Seaiate ra ues here abee COO oohe soxeds + 243 Transandine Railroad. Eade asetc tala atotebcae baneneliotsss 273, ill. 270 Transcontinental railway extends 888 eee South AMET ICA eteis aisles oxe/e40 Beatehatstekehavecevstonete - (text) 238 Transoceanic air commerce............. 1205 5,207, 213 TRANSPORTING A NAVY THROUGH THE JUNGLES OF AFRICA IN WAR TIME. BY BRANKO MAGEE, ORS ING Ve Rien sccrc eects ois ae Mecansshippineg cotton: Meypts. asec seine - ill. 394 witans-oiberian) Railways se «i'l [ele ol-feratejaleloie Ase, BiG) ‘Treasure, Delphi temple had immense........... 630 Treasure House, Xerxes’ throne stored in the: PA tHe MS Fiber tosaniig ee Sot nciostronones recast eat Reem Perec 591 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Page Treasury of the Athenians: Greece.............. 630 Treaty of Kalmar.:.5%ce.cb debe > ue aon cee 125 Tree-ferns: Mexicos.t'ccs sys ss «sobs ce Sune eee 168 Tree heaths: Africa, Ruwenzori Mountains. (text) 437 Tree, Native climbing a palm: Liberia. sve ill. 426 Tree, Orange: Portugal..(color insert) Plate XV, i : 516-533 Trees. caninot resist the ax Of mati....+ossssee ill. 185 Trees, Cherry-blossom: Washington, D. C..... ill. 204 Trees, Religious law of war to protect the: Asia MlinOr.. .'s'sinieiaie’aVoleinie/eie p elaleiy min 6p s/s 5 beet eee 567 Trees: The Fight at the Timber-line. By John Oliver: La “Gorce:....a5 52s sens ss 2 > oe eee 165 Trees, Tropical: Africa, Central.......... ill. 438, 440 “Trial marriages’: Denmark... .':.% s+. seen 123 Tribes,. African:.»Liberia. 2:5 » >. .1c ese eee 429, 430 Tridents, Camargue cowboys’........... 15; Wl srayeae Tripolis, Greece; Road from... 2... eee eee ill, 611 Trondhjem Cathedral: INO WAY: otraree ticicle enree ill. 86 Tropical. flora: Agtrica, Central.. ce ss seen ill. 435-438 Tropical medicine, British Schools of............ 303 Tropical trees, arevsott of fiber.....-+. eles eae 165 Tropics, Food-producing potentialities of the..... 329 ‘Troubadours, Wanguage of the........s0.eneneee I Troy, ‘Stege “ofsse si ic otiecre 6 earee oo oe oe 559 TriumphaleAgch) slisbone se eee ss 533, S47, dllsenaa ‘Tsetse-flies's A fricalss.. ois sis oo ole oe ac an cs pee 341 Tuberculosis, Death rate high from...........+e. 307 Tuberculosis, Denmark has scourge of........... 157 Tundra, Alaskatigs Wt52 WN s-1s aso icta sei ee il, “204 Tungsten extracted from wolfram ore...... (text) 236 Tunnel, Railroad: Andes Mountains...... 273, ill. 270 Tunnel; “Stadium: Athens... 4... 0.0 «ote eee 608 Tupas Yupanqui, Incan ruler). < scr. 224, 226 Tupelo, Mississippi, U. S. Government fish hatch- ery. establishedata. «cs cece cee nein (text) 330 Tupungato’ Volcano; Chiles)... ..+. 4. = eee . 243 Turk int Athens, “rail of the... .ccces noes eee ill. 619 Turkey, Hey pt issahead of....s502 2. 28 oe eee 410 Turkeys, Heypt has numerous... ... 1.96 398 ‘Turks in Asia, Misior (1070)... .1.t 0). os eee 570 Turtlehead (Chelone ions (Pursh))....58 (color insert) Plate XIII, 36-53 Tusks, Elephant: African natives loading ivory ill. 433 LatuilanislandseSamoa-mte sneer 652, ill. 678 Tuxen, Laurits: Danish painter. ..%.). cc clche ee eee 163 Typhoid fever, uControli olsen ce cee ee 303, 40050425 Typhus; (Control of...) oa beeine e ee eee 303, 327 OO) PZ Uganda (Africa), mountain heights in........ ill. 194 Ujiji, Africa, where Stanley found Livingstone (text) 353 Ulysses, Birthplace of........cee- ave sakes (text) 624 Ulysses founded Lisbon: Legend..............:0. 505 Umbrella, African native in a sausage-tree with an ill. 440 Umbrella, Flower: Japanese festival........... ill. 300 Wnalaskay- Aleutian) Islandsh. s+: e sensei 643, ill. 643 Unexplored regions: Chilewc. .< 1a se eenielchelnreterieete 261 “Wnhookine ‘the Hookworm?.n. . TO22.\c)epcie ea ciate see sole wie ane neenee Eee Uz. Possessions: Pacific Islands........ 652-654, 665 U. S. Public Health Service..........-.se 0s 303, 319 U. S. South, Health campaigns....307, 309, 312, 319 U. S. Weather Bureau recorded temperature in Wukon,”~ Alaskass cs). 0 svlsisiie siete iateleeheraieneeee eS Oy Ss Western Australia resembles western. 6 wise Universities establishing departments of health and hy siete J Aeviewie siete sraersneteieetmen aoe eee 328-329 University extension, Denmark’s high schools models for system Of......ccccceseeceeees 143, 144 University of Copenhagen students............ ill. 132 University of el-Azhar, Cairo. ..... pee » 403 INDEX FOR VOLUME XLII, 1922 Page University of London, England: Health campaign 328-329 ‘Unknown God,’’ Where St. Paul preached of the: CCRC es = diva cicncroncicns ave slovelivaltan aes Slave cherstora sucks 597 Unknown Soldier Day, Portugal’s: Procession. .ill. 537 Unknown soldier, Where Pericles delivered his CATON OM, WHE occccccccc00c0DuGCUODODUNL 597, 602 Weskuaia. Mierra deli Kuegon.c. oo. 36 oe lee ness 262 Uspallata, Pass of: Andes Mountains..... 273, ill. 271 sey? Veen. (Calica GS Wie stan SonaGoudodoocono ou 453, 474 Vacation time by the seashore: Denmark...... ill. 144 Maccination, Valtle) Of. o0..60.- 303, 307, 330, ill. 324 Niereerie a sly phoOiGnrias sie . «ecletoreie crete oie o sien snaey share 325 WMacemen se Yellow-feveras. <6 s.cisretess specail welateve seer B25 Widmer cbiviestielyibetta ra yoeia se cketslensieheiotel chehelelenols! oisiien 429 Vailima, Western Samoan Islands..............¢ 685 Neer hel 1vtea Ts 7 TIO 15, Bhsiiais. s 5.6 oie ssi ele syeieralla ene) ee.class «ney cues 135 Waldemar. Prince, of Denmarlirjaq.. «2 se eles 129 galchiciamn Cale sieyate. oreo. ate aerators clivtythets ens eleraccichete 258 Valdivia, Pedro de, founder of Santiago..226, 242, 255 Malkynie, Sinding’s:) Copenhagen. «...).% 06. se « ill. 130 Wallekilde> Denmark, School. of. ....20% «6 se aves. 149 Wiclleraiaes Cal es cps 2 57a: sw aiaileva te svcneres ise eneeste scar tlohers ss 10 sie 236 Valparaiso, Chile....226, 227, 236, 239, 241, 242, 261, 263, 273, ill. 238, 240, 241 Malparaisoy Pe xpressi, Chilé.c.t5 cook visisias © ele oti eleisis 224 Manilla nods: “Palniti. 3.2... ssp cist cos sates oe ill. 683 Nearest GREECE 255 ce canccst ais censuses alerciihermtapetonsisrelere mone hak 623 WMealenibierrardel sk uegos (Chiller se cus «clcveloiene ov 241 Wesetablemspongesis INOtwaynemcsic ees cieels icici «6 637 Wiesetables's @licel am de scoisrerete coc cue dere a issanereie ccercusteseiokeue 6 641 Vegetables, Mexican, enroute to market....... ill. 465 WesetationcmeAlaska (icottonias qe serseiesl scree ill. 214 Merled> women, Keyptian.....-0sees2+es ill. 384, 409 Velella, relative of Portuguese man-of-war....... 642 Weuder -Caironsweet, drinks 5 .i66s aie. owe ese ill. 384 _Vender: Fishmonger of Copenhagen.......... ill. 141 Wiender-weViilke INMIEXA CO's ate sis: sys eiee oretes 6 ehere oes ue ill. 463 Wenice Italy (Piazza of Venice’... 01652500 ill. 107 Meniee of “Mexico: Lake Xochimilco:.......<. ill. 465 Venus Looking-Glass (Specularia perfoliata)...58 (color insert) Plate XIV, 36-53 Venus, Statue of: Found at Melos.............. 621 Wiens, “Memple: tos Greece's x. otto stele oteieie 631 WwW”? Wading birds: Tierra del Fuego..........+.-++- 273 Wages, Egyptian laborers received big: British AG mya Hoyp eee ee oe ciie eieleteleieia ot leit iter 393 Wagon almost unknown in Japan...........++.. 277 Wagon, Thessalian peasant: Greece........... ill. 585 Wagon wheel, Rubber tree growing through a ill. 191 Wairarapa County, New Zealand...........-- ill. 650 Waizeru Zauditu, Coronation scenes: Abyssinia ill. 376, 378 Wake Island, Pacific Ocean........--.2-.-++eee- 644 Walker, J. Bernard. Cathedrals of the Old and New World...... SR I PONTE ekotace tere "siisuple, ove yehoveraye 61 Wallaby: Australia........seeeee ec eee rece eees -+ 674 Walls built by Cimon: Greece...........-+..- ill. 594 Walls built by Themistocles: Athens..........-- «+ 597 Walls, Hand-tooled granite: Rhodesia........- ill. 431 Walnut tree two feet high..........+++e-e-ees s+ 193 Walrus hide covering, Canoe with............ ill. 208 Wami (German gunboat)......-cceceeseerseeees 362 War Office, Lisbon.......-ccsecececsreccereces 516 War, Religious law of: Asia Minor.........----- 567 Warfare, Mountain, Japanese excel in..... neeeee 2G Warriors, African........2..2-+2-+2++-e:> ill. 376-378 Water Avens, Purple or (Geum rivale).....--+ 54 (color insert) Plate VI, 36-53 Waterlily, American (Castalia odorata)......-- ar (color insert) Plate I, 36-53 Wash-day: Camargue, France....... spe cnnooonley. 12 Washboards, Rock.........---eeeceeeees ill. 482, 542 Washington Cathedral, on Mt. St. Alban...61, Bt, 9, ill. 60 Washington, D. C.: Views of the Lincoln Memo- AL cull 1 Sees eekee men eNete rere stscec chs epsbe suet evecoheneyel mocks ill. 197-204 Washington, George, and a National Cathedral... 61 178, Water and gossip flow in Oporto, Where... . (color insert) Plate II, 516-533 Water-boy: Greece.......... eee e cscs crcccces ill. 610 Water-buffalo: HKgypt..........-c-ceeess see =+ 398 Water-jars, African women carrying........-- ill. 339 Water piped from the Nile to Jerusalem..... 383, 389 Water-pipes, Egypt’s coffee-shops rent....------- 399 Water-power: Andes Mountains...........++++:- 248 “Water snake,” Egyptian irrigating machine..... 395 Water sports: Liberia...........-+se-ee- ill. 414, 415 Water Street, Monrovia, Liberia......... 416, ill. 412 Water supply: African bush..........+-+eeeeees 336 Water supply: Asia Minor...........-. 557, 558, 570 Water supply: Athens’ gift from Hadrian....... Coe, Water supply: Australia (interior)............-- 674 Water supply.) Chile. 3.2... .----- 221, 220, ill. 222 Water supply: Corinth, Greece............. Sevese 1025 Water supply: Easter Island.............-..++: 654 Water supply. eyptee..-.. 2s ee eins) S95 Water supply: Mont’ Estoril, Portugal.......... 508 Water supply system, Lisbon has splendid......-. 516 Water venders: Mexico........-eecceee-- ill. 454, 479 Water-wheel, Japanese farmer turning a...... ill. 274 Waterfalls, Africa: Victoria Falls, Rhodesia...ill. 439 Waterfalls, Norway: Seven Sisters............ ill. 636 Waterfowl, Nile Delta has abundant.........-..-. 308 Waterfront, Algiers’: Algeria............--+-:- ill. 364 Waterfront, Lisbon’s....... 515, ill. 506-509, 544, 552 Waterfront, Panama City, Panama............ ill, 687 Waterfront, Pirzeus: Greece...........------- ill.. 575 Waterfronts, New York: Aérial view......... ill. 632 Watheroo, Australia..........ceeeeses sees ceeees 674 Watson’s anti-malaria campaign, Federated Malay S Gates roe: ae ete aie os orice) ons)-cuanstel el srerousle lereiate)s eyereesseperes 319 Wrattlecs mAtiSttalitcme ters) cre cleiche oletrelercio eicia ete «cus ele ill. 595 Wine craft, Square-sail, and twin-sail cargo craft: Rortucgale a. (color insert) Plates IV, VII, 516-533 Warnes, Chilean metas sascrmiriiedrer tide eiesic cus pieieunte a \Wwrtnes, IMiaGoiras Pecieailsoonoosebonuscc000076 Wingless Victory Temple, Athens...582, 591, ill. 284 Winnipeg frequently hotter than New Orleans in July Winnowing wheat: THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Witch's Thimble (Bluebell)..58-59 (color insert) Plate XIV, 36-53 Wolf,.. Cordillera: Chile,...........s0e seen nee 272 Wolfram . ore: : Chile.ocececeess serene eee ill. 236 *“Woman of the pyramids’... ..:.is..ossneneeee 393 Woman on white-ant hill: Africa............-. ill. 333 Woman suffrage: Sweden.............+.2++.125, 187 Women, African native....ill. 339, 344, 363, 368, 409 Women, Camargue;, France......,..scgneee 9, 19, 30 Women) Chileatiiy. a0.c07 ao bo eee eee ill. 240, 242 Women, Egy ptianis.c.

on ill. 279 (color insert) Plate VII, 282-299 Wooden clogs replace rubbers: Chile. .255- 256, ill. 259 Wooden images, Indian graveyard: Chile puelolakete ill. 264 Woodland opposes grassland. +... ee eee 196 Woodman cutting, talll tree. 172555002 eee ill. 185 Woodpecker (Ipocrantor magellanicus): ‘Tierra del, . Fuego ster. '. sesso sie so avelseles Se oe ae ae 273 Wool, New Zealand exports.........<.-... (text) 651 Workman (FE. B. and -W. H.): Quoted: o: sees 193 World: Map ici wratis : Sete ne 690 (supplement) 571 World’s Sh eae permanent settlement: Ushi aias ic icne cove cih.ta ere *s 16 «00 etter clap eee 262 Wrangel Island, Polar air route by way of....... 217 Wren (Sir), Christopher, Masterpiece of: St Paul’s, Cathedral, Tondon.. ++.) 200 ill. 79 SONG? Xenophile oligarchy, Athens delivered from the.. 610 Xerxes) at Thermopylae... .... 05... 5e eee 619 Xerxes, Old trail of: Bible lands... S72) acest 383 Xerxes’ throne stored in Treasure House: Athens. 591 Xochimilco, Lake:, Mexico...) 3925) eee ill. 465 ade Yacht, Non-magnetic Carnegie: Sailing the Seven Seas in the Interest of Science. By J. P. Ault. 631 Yaghan Indians: Tierra del Fuego... Saeeeee oe 273 Yaqui Indians: Mexico...... 453, 457, 480-481, ill. 475 Yaqui River, Mexico... .... aoeelaeeeeeee 460, 475 Yareta (Azarella yareta)i: Chiles neste eee ills y222 Yedo period, Japan, Memorial of the...... (color insert) Plate I, 282-299 Yellow fever...... (text) 303, 307, 332) gues gus-sue ooh Yellow Fringed Orchid (Habenaria ciliaris). (color insert) Plate Vib is 53 Yoke, Portuguese carved, worn by oxen...ill. 540 (color insert) Plate XI, 516-533 Chrysanthemum garden (color insert) Plate V, 282-299 Yokohama, Japan: York Cathedral: Eneland).Ghl-s acti 61, 81, 91, ill. 62 Yosemite mountain forests, Whitebark pine in the 168 Young girls’ festival: Camarsue, «=. ieee 31 Young, Kangaroo... ssosse sche 5 en eee ill. 652 Yucatan, Mexico accreécerele ove 0 sreinine hee 480 Yucatan, Mexico, Yellow fever in............ 32250325 Yussuf Wahba Pasha: Egypt’s Minister of Finance 4or COT Zagazig (Egypt), commercial town..........:..-. 392 Zahrtmann, Danish painter... .o.snce este 163 Zawdquellis| tribe: ‘Africa. .s/..% «bed he se eeneee 430 Zeus, Temple to Olympian: Athens...577, ill. 573, 592 Zimbabwe, Rhodesia: Ruins... %. s«..s.d.eeaee ee 11s 4am Zintas © Liberials,.,« 3(1.0-eic6 taste eee ill. 418, 424 Zone, - Hookworit, «..1i- mans sien | 4) eee 30565307 Zoological Gardens,..Juisbot.,..:... <2. / se sen 545 Lopilotess Mexicon eee Se elernG 87, alll osama Zulu wedding dance: South Africa............ ill. 445 Mor. xX il. No. | WASHINGTON THE NATIONAL GIEOGIRAPIAICG MAGAZINE COPYRIGHT,1922, BY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY, WASHINGTON, D. C. dui, 1922 CAMARGUE, THE COWBOY COUNTRY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE By Dr. ANDRE VIALLES With Illustrations from Photographs by Clifton Adams, Staff Photographer, National Geographic Magazine HEN the Roman legions were encamped in Gaul the delta of the Rhone was the granary of the imperial armies. ‘Today desert wastes and malarial swamps have so enveloped the Camargue that its dashing herdsmen and beautiful horsewomen have not yet fully rescued it. Given over to herds of horses, cattle, and sheep, this cowboy land is little known, even by the people of France, al- though some of the most distinguished French men of letters have paid tribute to its simple folk. At Arles the hitherto swift Rhone di- vides into two sluggish streams, whose floods, combined with the waves of the tideless Mediterranean, have built up an alluvial plain which is inherently rich, but which was despoiled by Louis XIV _ in much the same way that the fertile fields of Babylonia, ruined by Assyrian and Persian, became the desolation of modern Mesopotamia. History clusters richly about the Ca- margue. Phcenician traders came hither to trade with the Ligurians even before the Greeks founded Marseille. When that port was threatened, appeal was made to the Romans, who thereupon invaded Gaul, and from the Provincia Romana, Provence gained its name. In the third century of the Christian era St. Trophi- mus established a church at Arles, which two centuries later became the capital of Gaul. Then came the Visigoths and. Ostro- goths to build Carcasonne, and the Franks, whom the Arabs later held in subjection until the advent of Charles Martel. Italy extended its power to the Rhone, and later the House of Barcelona added Camargue to its domain. Under Raymund of St. Gilles the people took so important a part in the First Crusade that the word “Pro- vencal” came into common speech. WHERE THE LANGUAGE OF THE TROUBA- DOURS DEVELOPED With the fall of Rome the language of Cicero gave way to the vernacular of the slave, and this rude speech, passed on by word of mouth, not only triumphed over the Latin of the cloisters, but also developed into the rich language of the Troubadours. With the dispersal of the Albigenses came the unification of France, in which the geography of the north fought on the side of centralization, and the topography of the south, which fostered provincial pride, prevented such united strength as would avail against the kings of the north. Today, Camargue is a loyal part of the Republic, but proud of its own institu- tions and language. Were it not for the intense pride and love of their home land on the part of . > a > C > ‘ SOYySIeLU dy} JO 9]}7e9 Paztaids dy} Surjpuey ur sosn Auewi sey YIyM ‘yUapts} & sopnyjour jusuIdmbs Jay} ‘seYyss1OY JO Yelse] ay} 0} UOTIppe UT ; WNOUYVNWVO AO SAOTMOD DNNOA AG UWAN SONICTINGLNO WVVIVINS GNV ‘TTHM HLIM GNV ‘100% (NO YHGNN ONITIAMG GNV Nava HTM ASNOHWAVA WOOAUVINVOD V Ss DLT Y, Wi ~~ WN Ww IOQEG OREC@w 4 THER NATIONAL Sx Paris ~~ | Som) i BN nen | t 8 OS *S_StNazair eer tas ~~) | SeMarseill Montpellier ki. de Maug Tet a r ar Htang de Vic/ V Aires at Mortes i COL FE DUE LO! 40 GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ; Or Coulon Maillane Tarascon + -9 St. Remy Marseille Drawn by James M. Darley LA CAMARGUE, THE ISLAND “WILD WEST” OF SOUTHERN FRANCE It lies between the two main arms of the River Rhone and is 26 miles long with a mean width of 11 miles. the people of Provence and Languedoc, the Camargue might be given over to waste. But local patriotism, founded on poetry, horsemanship, and such love of the jiand as comes from outdoor life among the herds, is rehabilitating the region which once rivaled in richness the delta of the Nile. IRRIGATION IS RECLAIMING THE DESERT Now irrigation is making the desert blossom and the vineyards grow, and drainage is reclaiming the swampy wastes. Highroads have been constructed along elevated bunds, shaded by umbrella pines, and railways laid across the moor, thus opening up the Camargue to easy access from the outside world. But the customs and traditions of the land preserve the mellow flavor of the olden days when Vincen visited Mireio at the mas on Lotus Farm. Among the clumps of scrubby tamarisks dotting the landscape like tiny islands on a dead-calm sea may be found a great variety of game. From all sides come flocks of sea-ravens, plovers, herons, and wild ducks of all sorts. On the shallow borders of the marsh stand lines of pink flamingoes. Sometimes a blue Egyptian ibis strays this way. On the salt moor the rabbit multiplies as in Australia, in spite of the inroads made by the sportsmen, who are not forced to depend upon cap hunting, as was the mighty hunter Tartarin. Beavers which were numerous many years ago, are still found on the banks of the Rhone, and small land-tortoises are often seen. When you have crossed the wonderfully fertile lands, where crops and vineyards grow, you enter the wild Camargue. It is a marshy plain reaching to the shores of the sea. Thereon is found the san- souiro, the salt moor, and what scanty vegetation may grow along these marshes. The extraordinary feature of this wild section of France is the great herds of bulls and horses grazing peacefully, with flocks of sheep nibbling the scant grasses of the desolate moor. THE MISTRAL, THE GREAT MUD-EATER Camargue is a land of cloudless skies and a hot sun, sometimes dangerous in its intensity. But down from the cold central plateau of France there sweeps the mistral, a chilling wind which blows, CAMARGUE, COWBOY COUNTRY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE 5 on an average, one day in every two. One might well picture Camargue as the setting for the well-known contest between the blustering wind and the genial sun, to see which could first force the traveler to re- move his cloak. The mistral’s power is such that the roofs of the humbler homes and cowboy shelters hang low to withstand the force of the dry, cold wind, often cyclonic in power, and a cross is fixed to the wall as additonal protection. . But, cold jas the mistral is, it is a blessing, for the malarial mosquitoes and miasmic vapors of the land cannot withstand its blasts, and the muddy morasses dry up before its cleans- ing breath. For this reason it is called the “great mud-eater.”’ The mistral is perhaps the main factor in the environment of the land; and, by a strange coincidence, a newer force which has influenced the region bears the same name. One might well call this part of Provence the land of the two mistrals. So simply and beautifully have the poems of Frédéric Mistral described the herds- man’s land and life that one of them, Miréio, won for him the Nobel: prize for literature in 1904 and the lasting love of his people. Before the great poet of Provence died, in 1914, he had the satis- faction of knowing that his art had given new life to his land and new pride to its people. A MOTHER’S TEARS INSPIRED THE REBIRTH OF A LANGUAGE Frédéric Mistral had a great teacher, Joseph Roumanille, a gardener and poet, whose love of his native tongue was stirred by a trifling incident. Roumanille was once reading one of his own poems in French to some friends who were gathered in his home. Praise came to the lips of his fellow-artists, but to his mother’s eyes came tears, because she could not understand this strange tongue, although she was a native of France. Roumanille then decided to work for the reéstablishment of the language of the Troubadours. ‘The finest flowering of modern Provencal is Miréio, in which his pupil, Mistral, describes the simple coun- try life and the love of a basket-weaver’s son for the daughter of one of the rich farmers of Provence. ‘Thus was the recent renaissance of Provencal literature mothered by a tear and sired by a song. a) Mistral, thrilled by Homer and the Ec- logues of Virgil, awakened anew the na- tive speech of Provence, changed the pro- vincial patois of St. Rémy into the proud Provencal of the Avignon School, mended the rifted lutes of the Troubadours and made their muted strings respond again to the rich sonority of the native tongue. NATIVE DANCES, SPORTS, AND COSTUMES CONSERVED Master of phrases that he was, Mistral was also a master of psychology. He saw dances, sports, and costumes as the unify- ing factors in a native life which was threatened by the melting pot of cosmo- politan civilization, and he sought in every way to conserve all such native ele- ments as would make for happiness and patriotism, for race expression and for individual glory. Hence when one watches the people of Camargue, gathered to witness bull- fights in which the beast has an equal chance with the unarmed man, or sees the horsewomen dashing side by side with their husbands, fathers, and lovers in the abrivado, he is witnessing not alone a holiday spirit exulting in comradeship and excitement after the solitude of the endless plains, but also the fusing of a freedom-loving folk into a unit which has recently won official recognition from the France of which it is so unusual a part. When the visitor gazes at the village maidens, whose colorful costumes add zest to the “Feast of the Virgins,” he is noting one phase in a cultural renaissance whose importance cannot be realized until history has shown what fruit develops from this bright flower of beauty and unsophisticated charm. THE CAMARGUE HERDSMAN The herdsman of the Camargue is a picturesque figure. Living a lonely life among herds of black cattle and wild horses, he has developed the same manly traits that distinguish your Western cow- boy. Courage, chivalry, determination, endurance—all are his. But individualism and self-reliance left small place for patriotism, and it was here that the poet hoped to round out the character of the fearless desert rider. Hence the rodeo, or round-up, has be- come a cultural conference, during which ‘sasioy Sulpuey ul Aressodou jou st ‘sT[Nq pyIM dY} IOF pasn uapisjy oyy “AIppnoys sty 19AO Seq dy} Ul PELL] AeYyssiOY we sotsszed ay ‘OYUOIG oPYM IIT [NFYIeF Sty UO souel IY} Saplt oy USM LIILAO SIH GNV GHaXLS SIH ‘AOMMOD ANOYVNVO AHL "(Qe 9.0ed ‘}xo} 99S) S[RLUIUL dU} 19}}e9S O} Jomod Jay UL SUTYIAIOAD Op apdoodsuUMO} oY} I[IYM ‘S}oo}s 9Y} Ysnoszy} sy[pnq SUTIYSY IY} IALIP JsHu StOpsOYy OY J, ‘yo[JULS FO LUIOJ UMO S}I Sey oNoIeUIeD IY TL, LHOIA AHL YOX STINT AHL ONIONIVA : OGVAINAV,, HHL JO HSVd ONIVIOXA AHL 66 9 Uppy) fff AINOHY WWII AHL LSOd LAOMOOT V SV SYXOIMAO SWOLSAD Ad dash ‘LVOd GIO NV JO ‘TINH AHL GNV SAGAN JO FAV AWOATTU V ‘ JO HLNOW AHL YAN ‘JOpIO UL Sp1OY SUIAOW-19A9 9Y} dody 0} Stadjay s10l spuewop sinjsed asivds 94} suorsai 19430 Ul “psoy aB1e] & [O1]UOD Ud ‘sjUapIa} YIM poulie ‘SAOGMOD Mo} & puke YI St adeInjsed ay} ddUdAOIg JO sjsed UT ANOYVNVO AWL AO SGYAH MOVIA AHL CAMARGUE, COWBOY COUNTRY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE 9 the freedom-loving gardians, or herdsmen, impress upon themselves the mark of Provence while they brand their cattle with the initial or heraldic emblem which distinguishes their live stock. The women have not been neglected in this plan to unite the people of Provence into a happy family of families. ‘Their lovely dress has been revived and the fashion dictates of Paris repudiated in favor of a costume which was not only the costume of their mothers but which is beautiful in its own right. THE “MAS,” THE HOME OF THE PEOPLE Before inspecting the ferrade, the abrivado, and the fight for the cockade, let us visit the mas, the farmhouse home of the Provencal herdsman. His interest is in his ranch and herds, but home means the more to him for all that. Nor is he ashamed to live under the same roof with his animals or harvest. The flavor of the soil permeates the very home life of the Camargue peasant. Near the house one is sure to note the tree or trees which add distinction to the spot. Trees are few and far between in the Camargue. The graceful poplars, which add charm to more sheltered parts of Provence, are seldom found be- tween the two main mouths of the Rhone, for such towering stateliness cannot with- stand the unrelenting blasts of the mis- tral; but a clump of stout, low trees or somber cypresses is fostered by the farmers of the Camargue much as the solitary trees of Palestine are protected by the guardians of the holy tombs of the saints. The rude well without a sweep, the creaking grindstone, the clutter of out- worn tools, the peculiar spindle for mak- ing the seden, or horsehair lariat, the rickety ladder, the small stacks of coarse fodder—these are the homely features that surround the mas. To an extent that is not common in cities, the mas is the true home of the people. In an inhospitable land, the home is the welcome retreat of host as well as stranger. The warm hearts and hearths of Camargue are ample compen- sation for the desolation of the outer world. The welcome is no less sincere because the newcomer is himself an entertainer, who, grateful for the cheer which so surrounds him, warms to his happy task as guest and with each draught of wine radiates good will and confirms the host in his cordiality. The genial host breathes the very air of hospitality, but his wife has also done her best to add a note of homelike charm to the scene. ‘The plaster walls are hid behind great masses of wisteria or the deep blush of the Judas-tree. As in the windows of Russia’s log houses, so here the humble geranium gives its bright touch of velvety color to the dusty scene and sweet-smelling beds of flowers tri- umph over the homely odors of the stable. THE HOUSEWIFE’S REALM The kitchen is the housewife’s realm, a large bare room with the whitewash toned like an old meerschaum and the rough-hewn rafters browned by the smoke from the wood fire which blazes merrily below the large black kettle on its smoky chain. The great fireplace fills almost an en- tire side of the room, perhaps with a brick oven on one side and a masonry alcove for the few simple dishes on the other, while from the ceiling hang sprigs of drying herbs. Here the humble housewife rules as queen, with a gay shawl about her shoul- ders and her high chignon, bound with black velvet and lace, taking the place of a crown (see page 16). Primitive as are the arrangements, the cooking leaves nothing to be desired; for in the Camargue, where every one knows every one else, the virtues and failings of the people are retailed and rehearsed from one horn of the crescent that in- closes the Etang de Vaccarés to the other, and lack of culinary skill would be as just a cause for feminine reproach as lack of courage to a man. Just as Tartarin de Tarascon, whose delineation by Daudet makes sophisticated outsiders smile at his extravagances and envy him a little for his gruff leadership, so each herdsman has his reputation for skill, for strength, or for endurance, which gives him a justifiable pride of craft, and the culinary excellencies of his wife are equally well known. The gardian of Camargue can be lik- ened not only to the American cow- 10 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE A SLUICE-GATE IN THE CAMARGUE DRAINAGE SYSTEM There is an extensive system of deep drainage ditches throughout the more fertile dis- tricts of the Camargue, and in the late winter and early spring the surplus rain water is drained off to the sea. HELPING TO RESUSCITATE AGRICULTURE IN THE CAMARGUE The herder’s days are numbered here, as in many other parts of the world, and the pastoral life is giving way to the less romantic but more profitable occupation of agriculture. This is a return to the old order of things, for in the days of ancient Rome this part of Provincia Romana rivaled in fertility the delta of the Nile. CAMARGUE, COWBOY COUNTRY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE ag IRRIGATION MAY SOON MAKF THIS MONOTONOUS WASTE BLOOM In traversing the Camargue desert south of the large expanse of water called the Pond of Vaccares (see map, page 4), the seldom-used highway follows no fixed direction, but winds back and forth on the hard-packed sand. A HAND-POWER BALING PRESS _ With the return of irrigation and the adoption of modern methods, straw is coming into its own in the Camargue. This small baler requires only two men to operate it, and a more or less compact bale is turned out every few minutes. i THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE EVEN COMMERCE IS NOMADIC IN CAMARGUE In the town of Les Saintes Maries de la Mer the little stores and shops do not supply all the needs of the housewives, so traveling venders halt in the shade of the cathedral to display and sell their wares. THE LURE OF THE READY-MADE The Camargue is unusually self-reliant, but even in the tiny villages the fame of Marseille aud Paris is not unknown, and when the itinerant vender arrives shopping is the order of the day. CAMARGUE, COWBOY COUNTRY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE 13 THE HARD-BLOWING MISTRAL IS THE DRYER IN CAMARGUE’S OPEN-AIR LAUNDRIES puncher, but also to the vaquero of Spain, to the gaucho of South American pampas, and to the rough riders of Australian stations or the South African veldt. He is, however, a special type, having more to do than protect cattle or horses. More than all else, the gardian is preserving the old traditions of the Camargue peas- ant, his customs, his melodious Provencal language, and something of his old-fash- ioned dress. The gardian still wears a bright-colored shirt and a black coat lined with velvet. His trousers are of brown cloth, resem- bling leather, and are supported by a taiolo, a kind of large woolen belt several yards long. In winter the gardian uses wooden sabots even when riding. Sometimes, as a protection against the cold wind and rain, he wears over his trousers high leggings made of calfskin and strapped to his belt. These leggings are similar to the American cow-puncher’s “chaps.” He also wears a wide-brimmed felt hat like the sombrero of the Western cowboy. EVERY FAMILY HAS ITS APPRENTICE HERDSMAN In nearly every family of herdsmen may be found an apprentice, or gardia- noun, chiefly distinguished by a passion for fighting cattle and a love of rough, open-air life. Practicing with his father, uncles, or brothers, the boy soon becomes proficient in the cattle business. He must learn how to plait horsehair to make the seden or Camargue rope, and how to brand and wean the calves. He must also learn to handle the long horseherd’s staff and the gardian’s iron trident, and follow the tracks of lost cat- tle over the wild salt moor. To be a good herdsman he must know the different grass lands where the bulls and horses can graze and where to locate good holes at which to water them. Above all, the gardian must be a tireless horse- man and rough rider, able to break the most unruly broncho to his will. In winter the herdsmen live in the malarial marsh. When the great heat of summer hangs over the sun-burnt, dusty prairies they are ceaselessly tormented by swarms of mosquitoes, horseflies, and gnats. Sober and inured to every hardship, they are patient and reserved, because of their solitary life among the cattle. That is why, at the religious festivals to which they drive their fighting bulls, they give 14 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE THE VILLAGE SMITHY OF LE CAILAR HERE PRIDE OF CRAFT OUTLIVES THE COLOR OF ONE’S HAIR The products of Monsieur Bonfort of Le Cailar have a hall-mark of their own. Here he is comparing a partly finished ficheiroun, or trident, with the carved walnut model into which a thousand tridents, scattered throughout the Camargue, would fit perfectly, although each one is forged by hand. CAMARGUE, COWBOY COUNTRY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE 15 ,. j jj Yj) YM MEY) Yj Yy ALL CAMARGUE KNOWS HIS FAMOUS BRANDS Monsieur Bonfort's tiny smithy is a favorite rendezvous of herdsmen. to point a trident or form a cattle brand, this jolly blacksmith leads his field. Whether it be Here he is putting the finishing touches on a cattle brand for a cattle king whose range lies far to the south. vent to such surprising outbursts of boisterous gaiety. THE GARDIAN’S TRIDENT While mounted, the gardian uses a ficheiroun, or trident. ‘This is a hand- forged piece of iron, of which the classic and ancient form is a half-moon with sharp horns and a third short, triangular pom in the middle. This trident ‘is helved on a staff seven feet long. Gardians handle the ficheiroun with great cleverness. With it they throw down calves for branding or weaning, control unruly bulls, or stop a stampede in the herd, and on occasion protect them- selves from attack. They also use the long staff in fording streams. For these cowboys the trident is the emblem of free life. It has been em- ployed as a theme for many Provencal poems and popular songs. The poem of J. d’Arbaud is a familiar example: “O trident, arm of Provence— arm of captains and gardians—to pre- serve our old traditions, I hoist thee on thy staff of chestnut wood.” This trident of the cattle-herder might also stand as the emblem of the land, whose shape it so nearly resembles, for it is the mainstay of the gardian. About the new statue of Mistral’s girlish hero- ine, in the Place Mistral of Les Saintes Maries de la Mer, is a low iron railing whose alternate prongs are trident heads (see illustration, page 22). THE HERDSMAN’S HORSEHAIR LARIAT While the sturdy ficheiroun is the rod and staff of the herdsman, of almost equal importance is the seden, a horse- hair lariat, sometimes 36 feet in length, which is used as a lasso. It is never thrown from horseback, as it is light in weight and does not carry well in the air. In making the seden, strands of horse- hair are slowly spun from a rough bundle and tightly twisted by a heavy spindle, which is used in a horizontal position instead of hanging at the knee, as does the distaff of the spinners of the East. The hair used in these sedens is care- fully selected, not only for length and strength, but also for color. Strands of ‘s[Isuojn pouorysef-ploO Ul 9UOp SI Stooge], pue s}UBAIOS DY} pu JOSeuLUl Wey IY} FO ATIUULF OY} OF SuTYOOI oY} FO JSot YOTYM UT sov[doiy usdo ‘asiey ® SMOTIXA GIO AHL HLIM FAI GOOM AHL SMOTA TINAAOUd GIO JO TNALSOO WAH NI “AraVN SI onSielwued oy} UT ssnoYWIeZ ABAD UT ‘ 4 i "(6 ased 4x9} 99S) ISNOY dy} JO JAVOY OY} SE UdY}LY oY} oWOY S.s9psOY opquiny oy} uy AAIMASOOH AOAOUVINVO AHL JO WOOU- OUHL AHL it dpe? Sc 17 THE NATIONAI, GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE lf . * 2 Wey . bad ® ad oe _ f Pe -™ ® — . at ~~ a | “ te . ™ od = THE CHARMING COSTUME OF THE ARLESIENNE IIAS BEEN RESTORED TO FAVOR IN CAMARGUE For a time there was danger of this lovely gown’s being discarded for Parisian habili- ments, but the wearing of the native costume has now become a point of pride, and this graceful belle of the Camargue looks as if she might have stepped down from some ancestral portrait gallery. CAMARGUE, COWBOY COUNTRY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE 19 various colors are twisted into the final length, to form a pleasing pattern in white, brown, and black. The projecting ends of horsehair give the seden a rough and fuzzy appearance, so that it does not look as if it would run freely im the; noose. “But the gardian handles it with ease and precision. Seldom does the gardian carry fire- arms; but the Camargue is a great game country, and the owners of large estates, who trust their herds to unarmed cow- boys, hire well-armed gamekeepers to pro- tect the birds and wild rabbits (see p. 31). Upon the wide webbing from which the gamekeeper’s bag depends, there glistens a big brass badge, which serves as does the star of the constable in rural drama to identify him as “the law.” His gun strap of plaited leather is a model of pliant strength. THE DECEPTIVE CAMARGUE SADDLE MAY BE AN INSTRUMENT OF TORTURE The cowboy saddle of the Camargue is as deceptive in appearance as is the meek- faced broncho. It looks like a deeply upholstered armchair perched upon a wide skirt of cowhide. One _ strongly suspects it of concealing a pair of shock- absorbers somewhere in its bulging sides. Its high back is deeply padded and outlined with brass-headed nails in fancy designs. The wide curved pommel has no horn, but instead is tufted as luxuri ously as is the cantle. A tenderfoot would imagine that on such a saddle one need only worry about how long his horse would last. But to one unaccustomed to so soft a seat the Ca- margue saddle can be an instrument of torture whose pleasing appearance gives little clue to its deadly effect. After one has ridden the desert wastes for a few miles, the novice pictures a broadly bulg- ing hogshead as a comfortable seat and fears that his legs are bowed for life. The large hand-made stirrups of wrought iron are much more comfortable, for they hang low and are covered over in front with iron bars, so that the foot cannot slide through and let the stirrup branches bruise the ankles (see page 6). The hand-forged spurs are short, with small rowels. From the high saddle-bow hang two leather pockets and sometimes two saquetouns, or bright-colored cloth bags. The Camargue bridle is generally made of black leather, without blinders, with a hand-forged bit having long curved branches. A sort of hackamore is used to break in a horse. THE WOMEN RIDE HORSEBACK BEHIND THE MEN Only on horseback does one traverse the wild waste of marshes. The gardians’ wives arid daughters ride into the salt moor behind their husbands or fathers. They sit securely upon a little blanket bound to the crupper, and with an arm around their chevalier they ride great distances across the drab landscape. From ancient times there have been in the Camargue horsewomen passionately fond of cattle-raising and of rough riding. In the sixteenth century mention was made by Pierre Quiqueran de Beaujeu of horsewomen accompanying the gardians during the ferrade, or cattle-branding. A few years ago there was in the Ca- margue a very celebrated horsewoman, Mlle. de la Borse-Caumont. Her father owned the bulls and horses of Mas d’Icard. Gardians called her the “Damisello,” the Miss, and almost worshiped her. Nowadays, especially in Languedoc, the number of horsewomen is increasing. They ride astride white Camargue horses saddled in true cowboy style, wearing a girl’s riding skirt, a shirt of some bright color, and a large sombrero. They are very fond of the cattle busi- ness, follow the gardians at their daily tasks, and are always to be found in the thickest of the exciting charges of the abrivado. THE VILLAGE SMITHY OF CAMARGUE’S CHEYENNE One of the humble heroes of the Ca- margue would suit Longfellow better than Daudet. He is the village black- smith of Le Cailar, the focus of gardian life, and the Cheyenne or Pendleton of Provence (see pages 14 and 15). In his tiny smithy, this jolly Monsieur Bonfort fashions the tridents for his cow- boy friends or forges the brands with which the roving herds are marked. None can design a finer pair of stirrups than he, and, with the modern encroach- ments of irrigation and agriculture, he will even mend a plowshare or make the 20) THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE IN THE CAMARGUE THE FIGHTING BULL HAS HIS INNINGS Between the sharp horns of the beast is fastened a bright cockade, which the young men seek to wrest away during the mad rush. Beyond a certain boundary, it is anybody’s game, and the most bashful gardian may become famous overnight by securing the cockade of an especially famous bull. irons for a rude cart. But it is the herder whom he really serves, and his fame stretches from the fortress-church of Les Saintes Maries de la Mer to the battle- ments of Aigues Mortes and the Roman arena at Nimes. THE NACIOUN GARDIANO IS A COWBOYS UNION The “Nacioun Gardiano,” a ‘sort of cowboys’ union, was organized to unite the lovers of the Camargue through pride of craft. In the Provencal festivals, it is the “Nacioun Gardiano” whose riders form parades and follow their leader, upon whose crimson banner are embroid- ered the golden cross of Languedoc and the mystic bark of the Holy Maries. From time to time these riders, some of them owners of vast herds, meet to play equestrian games. The specific purpose of this group is the maintenance of the herdsmen’s tradi- tions, the perpetuation of the sports and customs of the past; but, above all, they foster the sweet speech of Provence and defend the traditions of the Camargue. The righthand man of the gardian is the Camargue pony. Light gray in color and with a shaggy coat, the steed has a hang-dog air and an unkempt appearance. His low-hanging head, big and square, has sleepy eyes and a quiet expression. But never did a more disarming appear- ance camouflage a more satanic spirit. When mounted, this Rip Van Winkle among horses becomes spirited and full of the devil, half wild and with a savage temper. THE CAMARGUE PONY HAS IRON ENDUR- ANCE Camargue horses are skittish and sly, and often they have a kick like the mule of Daudet’s famous story, who treasured his animosity for seven years, and with one wallop transformed Tistet Vedene into a whirlwind of blond dust in which fluttered an ibis feather. They are sel- dom shod and live to a ripe old age. I have known good saddle-horses to be thirty years old. Scientific men have searched in vain for an explanation of the origin of the CAMARGUE, COWBOY COUNTRY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE ZA THE SPECTATORS FORM THE WALLS OF THE ARENA IN CAMARGUE BULL-FIGHTS The mayor and the members of the city council of Le Cailar sit in a high gallery, but most of the spectators prefer ringside places. When the bull rushes his antagonists and charges toward the encircling crowds, it is a case of every man for himself. Camargue pony. Some say he is de- scended from the Numidian horses brought over by the Roman cavalry; others ascribe his ancestry to the horses left in the Rhone delta by the Saracens. He resembles the long-haired horse of Tibet and the Siberian pony. By a perfect adaptation to his environ- ment, he has the same flat type of foot and hard hoof that distinguishes the horses of other marshy lands. He is bold, powerful, and sure of foot. Rustic and sober in appearance, he has an iron endurance and is so self-reliant that he needs little care. When the rider dismounts after the day’s work is done, the Camargue horse prefers to graze in freedom on the sparse moor rather than be well fed ina stable. The first time an outsider rides one he ascribes its ancestry to the hounds of hell. At the end of a month he feels like kissing his trust- worthy little steed each time he parts from him. Before the advent of the modern threshing-machine, the horses which run wild through the barren stretches of Ca- margue were employed to thresh wheat on the large farms of Provence and Languedoc. Sheaves were spread on the barn floor and the grain trodden out, as is still the custom in many parts of the world. AMERICAN ARMY IN FRANCE USED CAM ARGUE PONIES Camargue horses are never employed in the French cavalry on account of their small size, but the American Expedition- ary Force recognized their good qualities in war. When well broken and well trained, the Camargue horse is the cow- boy’s mainstay. He is the only mount with enough strength, suppleness, spirit, and stamina for rough riding on the bar- ren ranges. This independent little steed is not only a good worker, but, like his master, when a holiday comes, he delights in play. Trained as is a polo pony to take a full share in the sport, the Camargue cayuse measures up to the demands of the situa- tion. At aiguillettes, a contest in which the riders try to impale small wooden rings on their long wooden spears, the horse 22 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE A STATUE OF MIREILLE, HEROINE OF MISTRAL’S FAMOUS PROVENCAI, POEM Although a purely imaginary creature, the central figure of Mirécio has had so great an influence on Camargue life that the town of Les Saintes Maries honors her with the same assumption of reality that Paris does Abelard and Heloise and Beaucaire does Aucassin Around the statue is a railing in which the trident and Nicolette. of the herdsman (page 15) figures. shows a steadiness which is remarkable. In horse-racing he reveals unsuspected speed. But it is in the exciting game of écharpes that the Camargue pony revels. Fach of the two contending teams has six or eight riders, each wearing on the left arm three scarfs bearing the colors of his camp. The object is to tear the scarfs from one’s opponent’s arm before he can snatch yours. In the excitement of the match, the men center their atten- tion on each other, and the ponies are de- pended upon to wheel and run to the best advantage. Often they are reluctant to cease their milling when the game is won, but sel- dom is the most spir- ited pony known to kick or bite in order to gain advantage. ‘PUSS IN THE CORNER” ON HORSEBACK Epervier is a glori- fied form of “Pussiin the corner,” played on horseback; and here, too, the ponies show an uncanny intelligence in dashing for the un- occupied spot at the blast of the bugle, and on finding another seeking the same base, outrunning him, or wheeling at full speed to occupy another po- sition. So spectacular are these equestrian sports that the ancient arenas of Arles and Nimes today resound to the applause of the mod- ern Provencals as they did eighteen centuries ago to the cheers of the provincials of Rome. In these ancient am- phitheaters, built by imperial Rome to spread content among a conquered people, Provencal games pro- claim the fact that the joining of Provence and northern France was a union of equal with equal, rather than the cultural domination of one peo- ple by superiors. CAMARGUE CATTLE ARE OF ASIATIC ORIGIN Just as the shaggy horse of Camargue lacks the thoroughbred look, so the bulls lack the four-square beefiness for which a packer pays top prices. ‘These cattle are of Asiatic origin, trained for speed rather than weight, and can outrun many horses. When gathered in herds they CAMARGUE, COWBOY COUNTRY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE Le are tractable, but when segregated they are hard to control. Small in size be- cause of the sparse pas- turage, the Camargue bull’s coat is black, with occasional red- dish-brown tints. He has the face of a phi- losopher, thin and full of expression, with bright eyes. His horns are long and sharp, so mounted on his small head as to resemble a lyre without strings. Formerly some of these rangy beasts were broken to the plow, but they do not fit the role of dumb, driven cattle, and their flesh is so tough and has so gamy a flavor that they are seldom killed for food. Now- adays they are only used for the Proven- eal mode ot bull=- fighting, of which the people are so fond. In some parts of Ca- margue cattle-breeders cross the native stock with Andalusian fight- ing bulls. These cross- bred animals are used in the corridas del muerte, bull-fights of the Spanish type, which are given each year in the principal towns of the south of France. But the Camargue herdsman has his own excitement connected with his work as breeder and trainer of fight- ing stock. A frequent pastoral task is that of cut- ting out a particular animal from the herd, changing a cow from one grazing place to another, separating a calf from its mother, or choosing the bulls for the next fight. The manado, or herd, is surrounded and some riders circle it to keep it com- pact. Then the owner, followed by his herders, enters the group slowly, in order not to frighten the cattle. MAIN STREET, LES SAINTES MARIES DE LA MER It is paved with slippery granite and echoes all day long to the sound of wooden sabots. First the leader-bull is cut out. That animal is usually of native stock, more obedient than the rest, partly tame, and trained to direct the actions of the other wild bulls and rally them when disbanded. A bell hangs from his neck and his wide horus) have been cut off. lle hears a sonorous name, for very often the gar- dians call to him to remind him of his duty as a leader. Sometimes they em- phasize the hint by a cut of the trident on the croup. The cowboy pony, perfectly trained, understands which animal he must fol- low. Spurred to a run, the horse begins the exciting chase, plunging on in the bull tracks, trotting, wheeling ng, stopping short. 24 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE PrPPPerTePieayaTilanryees ers : if ' | Wmerbppheete A LIGHTHOUSE ON THE MARSHES OF SOUTHERN CAMARGUE and dashing off at top speed. When the bull, separated from the herd and kept at a safe distance, is left to his own devices he stops, snorting and tossing his head, and some rider looks after him. More difficult is the sorting of the other wild, sly animals. Once outside the herd, they often make such terrific dashes that the gardian cannot outride them, in spite of the fleetness of his steed. The beasts which are chosen out of the manado follow the leader-bull, and the gardians surround and drive them where- ever they will. One cannot easily realize the suppleness, the quick decision, and the fleetness of foot which the gardians re- quire from their steeds in this every-day but exciting task. THE BRANDING FESTIVAL But it is above all in the ferrade, or branding, that the gardians and _ their mounts show their greatest skill and alert- ness. This operation is performed in the spring of each year and consists in mark- ing the young stock. Formerly all the manadiers, or owners, used the branding- iron for searing their initials or heraldic mark on the left flank of the bulls. Now- adays most of the owners prefer escous- sura—that is to say, to split the ear of the bull in a manner peculiar to that par- ticular herd. The round-up has become a great holi- day gathering, to which the manadier in- vites his friends and neighbors. Early in the morning carriages arrive filled with Provencales in their picturesque costumes, and amateur horsemen, who, on _ their white horses, equipped @ la gardiane, come to aid the gardians in their work. A suitable ground has been chosen in advance, a large level space with no ob- structions. Close by, the gardians have assembled the herd. ‘The carriages are arranged in a vast semicircle, forming an impenetrable barrier, and in the fore- ground a groove marks the boundary where the horsemen must stop in their chase. In front of the carriages, filled with spectators, men and young folk on foot await, their eyes fixed on the herd. Over there one sees a young bull picked out and chased by the horsemen. It has leaped over the boundary and now be- longs to the crowd on foot, who will try to secure it by running it down. More venturesome than the others, a young man defies the young bull, which CAMARGUE, COWBOY COUNTRY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE 25 THE EDIBLE SNAIL FLOURISHES IN THE CAMARGUE A favorite feature in the gastronomic romances of the French and Italians, the edible snail, tradition says, was introduced into Britain by the Romans. This species is herbivorous and a great enemy of the gardener, but in the wild Camargue is welcomed by the herdsmen, for whom the Helix pomatia furnishes many a meal. which to measure the size of the shells. charges, and in a cloud of dust the man is bull-dogging the beast. Although thrown by the animal, he has succeeded in encircling its neck, and, tightening his hold, he brings it to earth amidst tremendous applause. Held immovable, the bull is marked. Then it scrambles to its feet, bellows, and joins the lowing herd. Each young bull goes through the process of being muzzled, an operation which consists of placing in its nose a slab of wood called museau, shaped like a half-moon. The animal is free to graze, but the muzzle, falling down on its nose, prevents it from sucking. In time this slab of wood decays and falls off. “THE FIGHT FOR THE COCKADE” From the natural pastoral drama, the fight between man and beast incidental to branding, was developed the Provencal “fight for the cockade.” The origin of this contest antedates the oldest traditions. It gratifies the passion of the Provencal The hat furnishes the yardstick by and the Languedocian peasant for this peculiarly humane type of bull-fighting. The Provencal fight for the cockade has nothing in common with the Spanish fight to the death, which has been cele- brated for eighty years, with ceremonial pomp, in the arenas of Nimes, Arles, Marseille, Beaucaire, and Lunel. In the villages the fights are staged in temporary inclosures formed of carts, barrels, and boxes. Formerly the seven animals used for the day’s sport were always driven in by gardians. Now it is only in Languedoc that this picturesque custom is kept up, for in Provence the animals are brought to their bovine Olympic in special wagons. It is to Le Cailar, about 12 miles from Nimes, or to the neighboring villages, that one must go to see an abrivado, the rapid charge of the gardians, taking the bulls to the local fight. At daybreak the crowd gathers in the fields to eat, dance, and be amused by the snorting of the bulls. 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Behind them comes the long line of carriages filled with merry boys and girls. 32) ZC THE DRIVE OF THE ULES At the outskirts of the village, groups of people, sticks in hand, wait, ready to spread disorder among the horsemen and give the frightened bulls a chance to escape. Their purpose is to stage an ex- citing spectacle and see the gard- ians chase the disbanded animals across the fields. But the horsemen are on their guard. At a little distance from the entrance to the village, the white horses get closer to the bulls and all break into a gallop. Then, in a whirlwind of dust, amid cheers and vociferations, blows, shouts to the leader-bull, the thunderous orders of the manadier, and the whistling and applause of the crowd, a mad charge is made through the village street which leads to the toril, or stable, where the animals are to be confined. Side by side ride the horsemen, hard pressed on both flanks, with stirrups interlocked. ‘The horses, covered with sweat, resist with all their might the pressure of the mad bulls (see page 7). In this charge, so full of rude sport, accidents often happen. Sometimes a half-wild horse takes fright at the shouting crowd and spreads disorder among his fel- lows. Another, though his hoofs are unshod, slips on the stones and takes his rider with him, or crushes a horseman against a wall. It is an exciting game, full of unexpected incidents. Nothing stops the horsemen and_horse- women, who are always present in these wild rides through the gant- let of shouting people on foot. Today it is only about 275 yards from gee of fisher folk when pirates descended upon the little town r boats, which indicate that once the site was under water at times (see text, pa fo} hat at that time the cathedral was nearly two miles from the sea. WHERE TRADITION RAISED A VILLAGE ON THE SANDS In the churchyard are tying-posts fo In former days the fortified cathedral at Saintes Maries de la Mer was the refu An old document of 1323 says t to pillage the waters. CAMARGUE, COWBOY COUNTRY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE 29 The abrivado brings in sufficient bulls during the morning. The real sport takes place in the afternoon. Ep ORV ECL OF LHE CONLESTAN TS 1S) 0 SNATCH THE COCKADE In a narrow stall, before the contest, a gardian attaches to the forelock of the beast a colored cockade poised between his deadly horns. It is this piece of rib- bon that amateurs and professional gar- dians will endeavor to snatch off with the bare hands or with a steel hook shaped like a comb. Fach captured cockade brings with it a premium, a sum of money varying from a few francs to several hundred. The arena is crowded with people; the spectators shout to one another, and in the heat of the afternoon the venders of oranges and refreshing drinks circu- late among the people. In the ring the cockade hunters wait, their eyes fixed on the gate of the toril. At a bugle call, it opens suddenly, allow- ing a black bull, blinded by the light, to enter. The bugle sounds a second time and the crier announces the prize which each cockade represents. ‘Then the sport commences. It is by the raget that the agile young man will endeavor to secure the cockade. This is a feint executed in front of the animal, on the flank, or behind him. Those employing this method are called rasetaires. While the attention of the bull is else- where directed, the rasetaire advances in a wide circle. When a few yards from the animal, he attracts the animal’s at- tention by shouting, and while the beast charges him, the man quickly thrusts his hand between the horns, endeavoring to detach the cockade with a quick upward motion. ‘Then the man, successful or not, and followed by the bull, rushes to the barricade. In order to execute this feint, one must have a sure eye, quick decision, and great agility. The slightest fault or hesitation may bring a wound to the rasetaire, some of whom are tossed on the horns of the bulls during these encounters. The premiums attached to the cockades vary according to the qualities and sav- agery of the fighting bulls who are de- fending the ribbons. These cocardiers should be valiant bulls, full of speed and tenacious in their pur- suit of their adversary. ‘They are espe- cially trained for this purpose. When a bull has finished its fight the leader-bull is sent into the ring to conduct it off to the stable. Sometimes, to increase the excitement of the bull-fight, gardians arrange l’esper- age, which consists of resisting with a trident the mad onslaught of a bull. Walking shoulder to shoulder, their tri- dents held firmly before them, two gar- dians advance across the arena. When the bull charges they must resist his as- sault unflinchingly by goading the beast on the muzzle. Now the bull-fight is over and the bulls are waiting in the dark toril, some with the cockade intact between their danger- ous horns. The gardians are already mounted. Quickly the gate of the toril is opened. With rattling horns, the bulls bound be- hind the riders, while the people shout and yell. Spurring their steeds into a run, the gardians direct the mad rush of the beasts. Now the village is far away, and the shouts and yells of the holiday crowds die away in the distance. In the darkness of advancing night the white steeds of the gardians have no need to direct the now quiet beasts to their grazing place. The last cultivated fields have been passed, and beyond the line of the silver-leafed willows, behind the mirror of a marsh, the herd is at home once more. COW FIGHTS AT NIGHT FOLLOW THE DAY’S SPORT Every day during the festival period it is the same. ‘The herdsmen are on horse- back a great part of the day to select and assemble and bring back the fighting cattle. In Languedoc, for instance, some villages have ten bull-fights on the festi- val of the local patron saint, and often people organize nightly fights with cows, which are very funny and not so dan- gerous. “Bulls, bulls! Here come the bulls!” Magic words, which make the Pro- vencal people come running. Bull-fight and horse-play constitute the favorite games of the little boy when released from the school-room. 30) THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE AN ORNATE SUCCESSOR TO THE HOMELY MAS, OR FARMHOUSE, OF CAMARGUE Here formal gardens and a palatial dwelling have taken the place of the humble home of the Camargue peasant. an electric wine-press. In the villages the cattle-owners and champion herdsmen are known by their Christian names and nicknames. ‘The people cheer them and are proud and happy to be acquainted with them. These riders are kings of the country, for they bring happiness to all. ARLESIAN WOMEN ARE NOTED BEAUTIES Arlesian women have a reputation in the Midi as perfect beauties of the Greek type, descendants of the colonists who came hither in ancient times, and fit rivals of the lovely ladies of Georgia and Kashmir, with the same classic nose and fine features. Some of them have a Saracenic aspect, with olive complexions and long, dark, Arabic eyes. But even their harmonious beauty is enhanced by the graceful old-fashioned Arlesian dress they wear. ‘That costume, in the style of 1830, is still worn, in spite of “ready-mades” and Parisian fashions. When fourteen years old the chato, or young Provencal girl, begins to dress her hair in the Provencal fashion and to wear the coveted styles of Arles. This day of In such a chateau every modern convenience is to be found, even costuming is a great holiday in the home. The girl dresses her hair in a high chig- non, and around it she arranges a piece of fine old lace, tied with a black velvet ribbon, fluttering behind. If the headdress is the most important article of the Arlesian toilet, the next is the white capello, a pleated muslin shawl, crossed over “her rounded bosom like a double peach, not ripe as yet.” Over that shawl she wears another, of printed calico, of the same color as the long, trailing gown. A long-sleeved bod- ice of black satin sets off the bright col- ors of the shawl and gown. With Arlesian dress some jewelry is quite necessary. A long gold pin secures the velvet head-ribbon, a rich brooch closes the capello and heavy golden bracelets adorn the firm brown arms. Ancient jewels are scarce and have been replaced by modern pieces, sug- gested by Provencal flowers and animals or by neo-Provengal literature. A trinket frequently seen is a locust, the symbol of Provencal poetry. Another is the seven- rayed golden star, the mark of the Feéli- CAMARGUE, COWBOY COUNTRY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE D1 bres, Mistral’s col- leagues in literature. So attired in their Provencal costumes, the girls of the Ca- margue go to the festi- vals over the wide salt moor, mounted like fair Ellens on the strong white steeds of their brave Lochin- Wars. MISTRAL SAVED THE OLD COSTUME A quarter of a cen- tury ago, the fair Ar- lesiennes, fearing hu- miliation 1f they failed to follow the style dic- tates of Paris, gradu- ally began to discard eiee-far more lovely peasant dress. Mis- tral, who loved fine costumes as he did the muse, sought to retain for the Camargue the graceful dress of olden emc. In 1903, just before he brought added fame to his be- loved land by winning shes Nobel prize in literature, the poet of Provence made a speech in which he felicitated the girls upon the beauty of their dress and begged them to perpetuate forever such a charm- ing habit. So was the Festo Vierginenco, or young girls’ festival, established. In 1904 the same ceremony took place at a great popular meeting in the splendid ruins of the ancient Roman theater of Arles. On a glorious Easter Monday there was a great parade of young Provencal girls in full dress, and the people were most enthusiastic over those who came from their moorland homes riding on horseback behind their knights of swamp and sage. It was a triumphal exhibition. The Arlesian people roundly praised the graceful procession of Provencal beauties THE GAME-KEEPER OF A CAMARGUE ESTATE The great brass plate on this keeper’s breast advertises him to be “the law” and the keeper for M. Vitou’s Mas de Pebre. and the return of the traditional costume. In 1899 Mistral created in the town of Arles a Provencal museum, called the Museon Arlaten. With the proceeds of the prize which Miréio won for him, he added to the collection in the museum of Arles. Here has been gathered an almost priceless exhibit of Provencal peasant art. ‘There is also an important collection of old Provencal furniture, which is at once beautiful and perfectly adapted to the people’s simple needs. One sees large cupboards and wardrobes made of carved oak, with high iron hinges, and the familiar decorated kneading-board and long-case clock. 3 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE WINDING HORSEHAIR TO MAKE THE SEDEN The man is pulling out an even strand of horsehair from the bundle under his left arm. Some distancé away to his right there is a spindle like that which rests against the box and which twists the even strand of hair into a small rope. This is in turn twisted with others to form the lariat of the gardian (see text, page 15). Rooms have been arranged to repre- sent in detail the life of Provence. One shows a traditional Christmas dinner in a gentleman farmer’s living-room. Here has been gathered the ancient rustic earth- ernware, baskets such as Vincen and his father wove, and everything typical of the rural life of Provence. A special room is devoted to the cow- boy life in Camargue. It is decorated with the homely objects and implements of the pastoral life. Proud as the people are of their finery, there is nothing effeminate about the Ca- margue. Courage and chivalry are native to the soil. THE LANDING OF THE HOLY MARIES OF TMEUD, SIVAN Home of supple cowboys, whose feats of daring rival those of the toreador of Spain or neighboring Nimes, Camargue’s wider reputation rests upon a religious legend, whose holy personages saved the sand-dunes from oblivion and gave them a lasting merit as the landing place of the Holy Maries of the Sea, exiled from the Holy Land to unfamiliar scenes, upon which, when they died, the mantle of their holiness fell; so that to this day the lame walk and the sick are healed through pil- grimage to their shrine. On a spit of land so low that in the churchyard there are tying-posts for boats like those beside the Grand Canal at Venice, there stands the fortress- church to which ex voto offerings have come from kings and fishermen. Just beyond, spearing the sky with towers which make the ancient steepled roofs seem low, rise the standards of wireless aerials. Among the marshes and the vast wastes of salt moor, where only saltwort grows, lies this little fishing village of Saintes Maries de la Mer. Its red-tiled cottages border the blue Mediterranean and nestle against the fortified walls of the cathedral. Saintes Maries de la Mer, or “Li Santo,” as the people often call it, is the lodestone that attracts each year many pilgrims from Provence and Languedoc. A legend told in this quaint village relates CAMARGUE, COWBOY COUNTRY OF SOUTHERN FRANCE oN) oN) PLAYING BESIDE THE PLYMOUTH ROCK OF CAMARGUE In the Place Mistral, in Les Saintes Maries de la Mer, there is an antique cross which commemorates the landing of the mystic pilgrims who came hither from Calvary (see text, page 32). that after the death of Christ the Jews seized Lazarus, Mary Magdalene, Mary Jacobee, the mother of St. James the Less, and Mary Salome, the mother of James and John. They were left in the care of an Egyptian servant and cast adrift in a disabled boat, from which they were shipwrecked on the sands of Ca- margue. The spot at which the holy women landed became the site of the village of Les Saintes Maries, and it is said that they proceeded from this place to evan- gelize the southern part of Gaul, whence they eventually returned to die. AN UNKNOWN PRINCE BUILT THE FORTI- FIED CATHEDRAL, Many years later an unknown prince built on the same spot a fortified cathe- dral in honor of the sacred visitation and provided therein a receptacle for the safe keeping of the sacred relics. This ca- thedral was the scene of many fierce at- tacks during the invasion of Gaul by the Saracens. At the time of the annual pilgrimage the reliquaries, which have been kept in the high chapel above the church floor, are lowered to the chancel. The follow- ing day, along the beach, a procession may be seen with pilgrims bearing at its head a flowered stretcher on which rests a miniature boat containing statues of the three Marys. ‘Then from a fishing-boat the priest blesses the blue sea which gave them to Camargue. THE MYSTERIOUS GITANOS ARRIVE IN MAY In the month of May one meets at Saintes Maries de la Mer nomad tribes, often erroneously called Bohemians. In Austria they are called Tziganes; in Ger- many, Zigeunern; in Italy, Zingari; in England, Gypsies; in Spain, Gitanos; in the south of France, Caraques or Carai. They call themselves the Gitanos and speak a language crammed with strange words which are not connected with any other known tongue. They have nothing in common with ordinary tramps. The Gitanos are tall and broad-shoul- dered, with sunburnt complexions, curly hair, and soft black eyes. The women 34 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE have a wild beauty and are very jealous of their genealogy. They marry only among their own people. These nomad tribes live away from civ- ilization, always wandering, proud and free. ‘They never settle down and their house is the moving “roulotte.” Horse- dealing is their usual vocation, and they are excellent judges of horseflesh. At least once in their lifetime these raggle-tagele Gypsies, scattered all over Europe, proceed toward this wild section of France to worship a Christian saint, their patron, Saint Sara, the Egyptian. The Gitanos take no interest in the Christian ceremonies. During the _pil- grimage they remain in the crypt of the church, which is specially reserved for them. There they sit, holding huge wax ‘tapers in their hands, worshiping and singing. No stranger is allowed to be present at their mysterious ceremonies, which are followed by the coronation of the Gypsy king and queen. On the 25th of May in the pilgrim pro- cession, the Gitanos are accustomed to carry on their shoulders a little flowered boat containing the wooden statue of Saint Sara, which they crown on the sandy beach, shouting ‘Vive, Sainte Sata! Then these nomad tribes leave, to re- sume their lonely wanderings. THEIR’ ORIGIN IS A FASCINATING MYSTERY The mysterious origin of this people has ever been a fascinating problem and has also been the favorite study of many scientists and writers, but unfortunately not all the explanatory theories pro- pounded are substantiated by scientific data. Some say the Gitanos may be the last survivors of a forgotten Egyptian or Assyrian civilization. Others, struck by certain similarities which they have in common with the Basque people, think they were the first Iberians. Others at- tribute to them an Indian origin, picture them driven westward by Oriental irrup- tions and identify the Gitan language with that of an Indian tribe of Sindh. 3ut the boldest and most curious the- ory 1s one which has been advanced after careful consideration and numerous ob- servations of their customs, language, and ethnical characteristics. According to Gitan legends and tra- ditions that have been handed down from father to son and from tribe to tribe, there was a large land without a shore which was inhabited ages ago by the first Gitan people, but which disappeared one day in an overwhelming disaster. Are these legendary lands the lost At- lantis? And did any of its inhabitants outlive the cataclysm? Was this fabulous country the birthplace of the first Basques, Gitans, and American Indians? Marquis de Baroncelli, who has long studied the vexing question, has noted the strange likeness of the ethnical char- acteristics of the Red Skin and the Gitan. He has also been much surprised by some customs common to both races, such as the simple action of inspecting the teeth of a horse. He noticed the curious answers to the question, “Whence did your people come ?” “From where the sun rises,” says the Indian. “From the sunset land,” say the Gitanos. These speculations are strengthened by sayings of Gitanos who take part in the pilgrimage to “Li Santo.” : A snowy-bearded Gypsy patriarch said: “We are to the human race what the Ca- margue horse is to his—the sole survivors of a vanished world.” ’ wn Apri, 26, Mr. A. W. CutiEr, of Rose Hill House, Worcester, England, died in Cava dei Tirreni, southern Italy, while making for the NATIONAL GrocrapHic MacazineE a photographic survey of the scenery and peasant types of Calabria. Many of Mr. Cutler’s superb photographic studies have appeared in THE GrocraPuic during the last nine years, and only a few months ago he completed for it a remarkable collection of pictures in Portugal. He had expected to make similar photographic series in Greece, Morocco, and Japan upon the conclusion of his labors in Italy. The members of the National Geographic Society will learn with profound appreciation that this gifted photographic artist has left as a bequest to The Society his entire collection of negatives, the result of a life work in many parts of the world—a truly notable gift toward the humanizing of geography. MIDSUMMER WILD FLOWERS N THE following pages THE GEo- | GRAPHIC offers another series of biog- raphies and exquisite illustrations in their natural colors of some of the familiar wild flowers of America. The several series published previously have included “American Wild Flowers,” with twenty-nine biographies and illustra- tions in color, in May, 1915; “Common American Wild Flowers,” with seventeen biographies and illustrations in color, in June, 1916; “Our State Flowers: Floral Emblems Chosen by the Commonwealths,” with thirty biographies and illustrations in color, in June, 1917; ‘““American Ber- ries of Hill, Dale, and Wayside,” with twenty-eight biographies and illustrations in color, in February, 1919 ; and “Familiar Grasses and Their Flowers,” with eight biographies and illustrations in color, in pune, 1921. Most of the thirty-eight species of flowers illustrated in the accompanying series will be found in bloom throughout the United States during July and August. Their beauty will command the admira- tion of passers-by, while the variations in their structure and the provisions which Nature has made tor their propagation will accentuate anew for the student Wordsworth’s famous aphorism in trib- ute to “the meanest flower that blows.” NATURE PROTECTS HER OWN In one of the earlier flower series the Editor emphasized the danger of extermi- nating sorne of our wild flowers by in- discriminate gathering. Happily, Nature AMERICAN WATERLILY Castalia odorata (Dryand.) W. & W. een I] This beautiful inhabitant. of ponds and streams belongs to a family of water-loving plants famous in many parts of the world. It is a cousin of the lotus of Egypt and of the sacred lotus of India. Also it claims relation- ship with the gigantic Victoria regia, the queen of floral aquatics, whose leaves are often seven feet in diameter and whose flowers are fre- quently fifty inches in circumference. The range of this fragrant species is from Nova Scotia to the Gulf of Mexico and from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mississippi River. Its preferred habitat is still water, such as ponds, shallow lakes, and slow streams. It be- gins flowering in June and continues to put forth blossoms until touched by frost. 35 has made such ample provision for the reproduction of the flowers discussed in this series that only five of the number require protection—the Bluebell (Plate XIV), the Rosemallow (Plate VIII), the Sheep Laurel (Plate VII), the Fringed Orchid and the Water Avens (Plate VI), and Spiderwort or Widow’s Tears (Plate IV). All the others may be gathered whenever and wherever found without danger of robbing future generations of their loveliness. These beautiful illustrations, costing $25,000, are reproductions from paintings made by the gifted artist-naturalist, Miss Mary E.. Eaton, of the New York Botan- ical Gardens, who has preserved to a re- markable degree the color, form, and grace of the specimens here presented. Additional flower series are in prepara- tion and will be published in THE GEo- GRAPHIC subsequently. It will be noticed that in some cases the names of plants in the text do not exactly agree with those on the plates. This is due to the fact that the text material could be prepared after the adoption of the Official Catalogue of Standardized Plant Names, a monumental work com- piled by the American Committee on Horticultural Nomenclature, designed as a sane and workable harmonization of the present confusion in every-day plant names. The plates had to be sent to press before this standardized nomencla- ture was adopted. In the cases where changes have been made both the new and old designations are given in the text. Its leaves, dark green above, pinkish on the under side, and somewhat heart-shaped, float on the water. The solitary flower, pure white or pink tinged, deliciously fragrant, and often five inches in diameter, opens shortly after sunrise, spreading a bounteous feast for bees, flower-flies, beetles, and “skippers.” This blossom affords a striking picture of one phase of plant evolution. As the ages passed, the waterlily found what most busi- ness houses learn sooner or later, that it pays to advertise. What good were its numerous pollen-producing stamens if the insect buyers failed to come and carry away the pollen to fertilize other flowers? Therefore many of the stamens were gradually transformed into petals, through natural processes, with the re- sult that now, having intelligence of its wares published to the four winds, no pollen-dispens- ing establishment is busier than the American waterlily when the insect hosts are a-wing. 36 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE The stamens and pistils of the scented water- lily mature at different times, thus insuring cross-fertilization. SHEEP SORREL Rumex acetosella L. [Plate II, left] The sheep sorrel is another of the plant world immigrants to America that deserves deportation as an undesirable alien; but, like the English sparrows of the feathery kingdom, it fights its way into every community by its fecundity. Rivers, mountains, quarantines, every barrier that nature or man has set up against it, has been overridden. Even the Rockies, which have stood as a wall of adamant against the serried hosts of most westward- bound floral invasions, have been too low to keep the sheep sorrel in check; so that it is found from ocean to ocean and from Canada to Mexico. The plant by some is known as field sorrel and by others as sour grass. It invades hay and pasture fields and crowds out the valuable grasses. Likewise, it disputes with the new- sown winter wheat for control of ground on which it has secured a foothold. Only the most persistent harrowing of the ground before seeding time will hold it in check until the wheat can come up and grow strong enough for the fray with the hardy foe. The sheep sorrel is a member of the buck- wheat family. Among its cousins are the buck- wheats, the docks, the knot-weeds, the smart- weeds and the tear-thumbs. It grows from six to twelve inches tall and when mature gives the field which it has colonized a real sorrel- top appearance. ENGLISH PLANTAIN Plantago lanceolata L. [Plate II, right] Like the charlock, corn cockle, and the sheep sorrel, the English plantain is an alien which came to our shores as a stowaway and has made America its own. It has sundry names in divers localities, such as ribgrass, narrow plantain, and ripple-grass. It blossoms from June to September and fights stubbornly for position in both field and lawn. Its seeds ma- ture about the same time as clover seed, and it is indeed a “tare among the wheat” when the farmer wants to sow his clover. The English plantain places its homely cone of greenish buds ona tall grooved stem. These buds mature as brownish flowers, so minute as to be almost indistinguishable. The ones at the bottom open first, and then the procession moves up the cone, day by day, until each row of flowers has taken its turn at blooming. These flowers possess long-extending anthers mounted on filamentous stamens, and they float around the cone as the rings of Saturn around the planet. In the illustration one may see the cones at the various stages. BLUE VERVAIN Verbena hastata L, [Plate III, left] Growing from four to six feet tall, with its flowering spikes branching upward like the arms of a candelabra, the blue vervain, whose flowers are more purple and violet than blue, possesses a range as wide as any other plant species in America, almost the entire United States and Canada being home soil to it. Wild hyssop and simpler’s joy are other names for it. One always regrets that Verbena hastata has a way of maturing the blossoms on each spike a few at a time instead of all at once, for seeds at the bottom of the spike, flowers in the middle, and buds at the top do not produce the pretty effect that a spike full of flowers would. The late John Burroughs, who could always be relied on to find beauty in any flower that possessed a trace of it, wrote of its drooping knotty threads as making “pretty etching upon the winter snow.” The blue vervain is a favorite with the bum- blebees, which, with many other members of the bee family and the bee-like fly species, gather at its festal board. It borrowed its name, simpler’s joy, from a European sister, and has also appropriated many of the latter’s traditions and much of its folklore. No plant that the herb-gatherer could find was more salable than the vervain; hence none brought so much joy to the simple peasant. The vervain is known abroad as the holy herb, and was one of the plants sacred to the Druids of England. Likewise, it was held sa- cred to Thor, the God of Thunder, and was supposed to exert a peculiar influence upon the eyesight. It is said to have been found grow- ing on Mt. Calvary, and is reputed, in the folk- _lore of Europe, to stimulate affection and to be able to break the power of witches. PICKERELWEED Pontederia cordata L. [Plate III, right] The pickerelweed is one of the members of the plant kingdom that insists upon making its home in the water, usually preferring the shal- low waters of a stagnant pond. It is a tall plant, with one blunt, arrow-head- shaped leaf, varying to a very elongated tri- angle. Above this leaf rises a spike about four inches long, from which issue numerous more or less irregular ephemeral, violet-blue flowers, each marked with a distinct yellow-green spot. That ever-delightful biographer of the folk of Nature’s garden, Neltje Blanchan, called the pickerelweed a vigorous wader, a sort of floral crane, and reminds us that in the backwoods people think that this plant is the favored resort of the pickerel when she deposits her eggs. A botanist who made a careful study of Pontederia cordata says that its flowers occur in three forms, not on the same, but on differ- ent plants, excelling even the purple loosestrife in the striking type of its dimorphism. Unable to set seed without insect aid, they resort to what seems little short of marvelous tactics to get the maximum benefit out of the visits of their winged guests. In one type of flower the stigma is raised on a long style to the very top of the blossom; in the second type the stigma comes half way up the flower cup; in the third type it remains at the bottom. Ayre Ay] 1B AA (up) vivsopo vIIvIsvD ATI'T YVALVAMA ALIHAA GHILNAOS-LaIIMS 4 if MESaton SHEEP SORREL ENGLISH PLANTAIN Sour Grass | Rib Grass Narrow Plantain Ripple Grass Plantago lanceolata (L.) Buckwheat Family : II | Planeiin ane Rumex acetosella (L.) ; : BLuE VERVAIN Simpler’s Joy Holy Herb PICKEREL-WEED Wild Hyssop Pontederia cordata (L.) Verbena hastata (L.) 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UOUIAG ((YIUD]q) Wnipaue mnutrT “aq *y (°°) stv viavuaqvy SIHOYQ GAIONIYA MOTTA ((7) avers mnsy SNIAY YILYM YO ATAYAd XVI4q MOTI4d A JAMIL atte ener VI A[iWue yy ayrsodwo,) CPIM) vsoddvnbs staqory yOOIAYyvUg UoJINgG Toy woy AV) JaISLPA] AYLUSTIILY JOOY MOD YVLS ONIZWIG xv 5 i 3 a = bg & * A[LWUB YY YILAFY (7) Vioftsnsun Inmu]D y THUMANVT YO TaynV'] daaHs, (7) 4 Ale YU BDY 113 DUMIISOASY ATINOOD NAUOD VII oy tay — OS ’ Ajtumey MOT]eIy AjIwey WOMSIY A[twiey JULY : ((wopitag) snasostjnz0 snIsiqiH PILLM (J) SninsAly uomalsjuad (P7ILM) vipa vpsvuojpyy ) | MOTIVYJA-dSOY AIAY-NOSWIAD ANONO T, Guvag AUIVH LOWVOUIG ATdUng : 3 ‘ VIII . Ayiuiey asyn A[IUB YP paaMmy LA tet ba) a (7) voviads svrdapasy 7asig (7) snmutivu snakyqo'y BA SULISELIOAY vad HOvag daaMN JY NOWNOD “tS eyed ey Oy HLT TT AY “od { rn Ix ati i) x POKEWEED Phytolacca decandra (L.) SWEET SCENTED SHRUB Calycanthus floridus (L.) Pokeweed Family Calycanthus Family Ajttuv | paeysnyAl ‘ITTY (C7) Sisuamdv VIISSVAT AUVLSAYY ATA YO WOTAVHD A]Lutey opeysiysiN (saan) phy dosajay sips hyd AWUIHS) GNAOUDH AWNVID XI Ajrmey ayrsodwoy Ajtmey Aroyuiny Ajrwey ayrsodwuog ((7) 123]29-1@04u 4asy "Shaq ("J) Susstasaduas saproudv’y (-7) nu1]59]90) unisoldng 19jSY padvaT-MOT[TM SITVGAUOD ANIG YAMOTY -LSIA UALSY AAOA MAN S “wore? (spmyZ) stagsaapds snovsdiq a hwo A[LULB YY [Asva T TaASVA TL, A[LUIV yf JLOMGT I] Ss (°7) 744qv18 auojay’) AUOULL LG TomoTHy [lets pray, pod pray ayeug dvaH-aILU J, >I —— ee ee >-enpetniii hatinenaes mcad - Apruey []9qanyg (-7) viefipunios vjnuvd uv: Ayre f Wesel ee Per cape; ig ae tae ‘{vy ((7) visvjnsipad visvjoasnpy aK (CT) vivyofaad Bhib naeds ! Sol eae FAOTIOXOY ASTIVY AVAINUI A SSVIQ-ONINOO'T S.SONTA a AjIWey JIOMSIY ? . wepash | ie y, XIV Ajtuiey ayrsodwuoy Cup) pasunt osvpijos COWNACTIOL) ATIVG Ajtuiey ayrsodwod C7 e w AOJ0IUOI LISP YALSY ANAATIC NYALSWAT Ajtwey ayisodurog ((7) a403]nm® unjarvun I, NOLLOG WALLIG UO ASNV J —) XV ¥ : : : ’ 4 ORANGE MILKWORT CoMMON DODDER Wild Bachelor’s Button Love Vine Angel's Hair Polygala lutea (L.) Cuscuta gronovii (Willd.) Milkwort Family XVI Convolvulus Family MIDSUMMER WILD FLOWERS 53 Each flower has two sets of stamens, and the length of these is always adjusted to the height of the pistil. Whenever the pistil is high the stamens keep out of its way by occupying the lower and mid- dle position. If the pistil is low they occupy the middle and high positions. When it is medium they occupy the low and high positions. The result is that when the bee comes to gather nectar he gets his abdomen dusted with the pollen of the long stamens, his chest with that of the middle ones, and his head with that of the short ones. In this way he always car- ries the short stamens’ pollen to the low pistils of other flowers, the long stamens’ pollen to the high pistils, etc. This is necessary to cross fertilization. Darwin proved that only the long stamens’ pollen would fertilize the high pistils, ete: The pickerelweed’s range covers the eastern half of the United States and Canada and its flowering season is from June to October. CLOSED OR BOTTLE GENTIAN Gentiana andrewsii Griseb. [Plate IV, left] This member of the gentian family is the commonest of all its tribe in the East. It is remarkable for its tight-closed, bottle-shaped flowers of a blue that approaches ultramarine in intensity. Thoreau spoke of its “transcend- ent blue, light in the shade and turning purple with age.” Occasionally some degenerate plant raises a crop of white flowers. There is, perhaps, no other plant better fitted for late appearance than the closed gentian. It blooms only a few weeks ahead of Jack Frost, when short days and chilly nights discourage most of the flowers, and the deep-tinted blos- soms hold themselves firmly closed, as though to protect the delicate stamens and pistils of its reproductive system from the sharp touches of the late year. The bumblebee knows that the closed gentian has prepared a feast for his special delectation. This is a cup of nectar denied to the rabble by the flower’s tightly closed doors and supplied to the bumblebee, which forces its way into the closed corolla. The flower dusts the bee with pollen while it sits at her table, and the insect carries this to its next host. The favored haunts of the closed gentian are along the edges of rich woodlands, and its range 1s from Maine to South Dakota and from Georgia to Missouri. HYSSOP SKULLCAP Scutellaria integrifolia L. [Plate IV, middle] _ Belonging to the versatile mint family, which , includes such diverse denizens of field and for- est as blue curls, wood sage, horse balm, bugle- weed, horehound, pennyroyal, wild bergamot, gill-over-the-ground, self-heal, false dragon head, and catnip, the hyssop skullcap is at once beautiful and unpretentious. Blooming from May to August over a range that reaches from southern New England to eastern Texas, this species of skullcap seldom grows taller than two feet, with the result that its fine colors are often hidden by surrounding vegetation. The leaves, like the stem, are covered with fine down. Its bright blue flowers are about an inch long. VIRGINIA SPIDERWORT Tradescantia virginiana L. [Plate IV, right] The spiderwort, which is a cousin of the wandering jew and the Virginia day-flower, rejoices in the lacrymose every-day name of widow’s tears. Like its cousin, the day-flower, the spider- wort opens for only a brief time—the morning hours. Then the flowers are bright and lively enough for any company, but as the sun sweeps down the westward sky the petals begin to re- treat into the calyx, and presently there is a thin jelly where a while ago was a flower. “Dissolved in tears,’ one might say, was the fate of the morning’s blue petals surrounding the golden anthers. The spiderwort is cross-fertilized by the bumblebees, which are attracted by an abun- dance of pollen. Bumblebees seem to be at- tracted by blue and purplish flowers as strongly as bargain-hunters are drawn to the red trim- mings of ten-cent stores. The botanical name of the spiderwort is in memory of John ‘Tradescant, gardener to Charles I. A relative sent him some spider- wort seeds which he planted at Hampton Court. Since that time the Virginia spiderwort has been a well-known garden flower in England. The range of the spiderwort extends from Maine to South Carolina and westward to the Rocky Mountains. Its habitat is rich, moist ground. GOLDEN ST. JOHN’S-WORT Hypericum aureum Bartr. [Plate V, left] The St. John’s-wort family is small, being made up of shrubs and herbs ranging from St. Andrew’s Cross to orange-grass. There is no member of the family with a better claim to beauty than the subject of this sketch. With its drooping petals, its host of stamens, and its united pistils, the blossom of the golden St. John’s-wort is admittedly a beautiful flower. It flourishes in the Southern and Western States. The plant is a shrub that attains a height of three feet, more woody than most species of St. John’s-wort, and often appearing of glob- ular shape, like a miniature tree. It has a red bark that gradually cleaves off in thin layers. Wild, it prefers rocky situations and shady spots where moisture is longest retained. Cultivated, it grows from cuttings or from seeds, the seed-grown ones blooming the second year. PRICKLEPOPPY Argemone mexicana L. [Plate V, right] This thorny terror of the barefoot boy is an immigrant from Mexico, but it makes itself thoroughly at home as far north as New Eng- 54: THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE land. It was brought to the United States as a flower, but promptly broke out of captivity and since has been rated as an escape. It pre- fers to share the haunts of men, and roadsides, old orchards, and meadows that have not been touched by the plow for a long time are its favorite habitats. Its prickly leaves are as sharp-pointed as needles and its stem 1s cov- ered with “stickers.” The flowers are usually two inches broad or more, with four to six yellow petals and numerous golden stamens. Like other pop- pies, Argemone has no nectar to offer the bees, but it does have plenty of pollen to give them, and they come to it in large numbers. Cross- fertilization is accomplished with the help of the insect visitors. The fruit capsules are nearly an inch long and are well armed with spines. The pricklepoppy has many interesting rela- tives, among them the bloodroot and the celan- dine. YELLOW FRINGED ORCHID Habenaria ciliaris (L.) R. Br. [Plate VI, left | Cousin of the ladyslipper, the moccasin- flowers, the ladies-tresses, the rattlesnake plan- tains, the twayblades, and the puttyroots, the yellow fringed orchid belongs to a family that has some six thousand different species grouped in about four hundred genera. Not even the grasses can boast of a greater family tree than this. This orchid, a perennial, has an ingenious mechanical device to insure cross-fertilization. Its nectar is concealed in a tube so narrow and deep that only the long-tongued butterflies and moths and persistent bumblebees can reach it. There is but one stamen. Just above the stigma there are two pollen clusters, each com- posed of several small packets of pollen tied together with an elastic thread. At the end of these threads 1s a sticky disk.) Whis) disk ad- heres to the head of the nectar-sipper and is carried to the next flower visited. Here, in turn, the pollen packets come into contact with the sticky substance of the stigma and fertili- zation takes place. Orchids are among our most progressive flowers, having risen to that stage of develop- ment where self-fertilization is quite impossi- ble. Indeed, some are so sterile to their own pollen that when it is placed directly upon the stigmas no seeds are set. But if the orchids depend upon the insects to carry their pollen to one another, these winged messengers measure up fully to the trust reposed in them. By actual count one orchid was found to bear more than a million seeds. Fortunately, only a small portion of these ever grow into other plants. If all of them did, the whole earth would soon wear an unbroken covering of orchids. The yellow fringed orchid is an elegant and stately flower. It ranges from Vermont and Ontario to Ilorida and Texas and prefers wet meadows and sandy bogs, where it grows from one to two feet tall. It blossoms during July and August. BROOM OR STIFF YELLOW FLAX Linum medium (Planch.) Britton [Plate VI, middle | No claims to superior beauty can be made on behalf of the subject of this sketch, for, stiff- stemmed, close-leaved, and small-flowered, it is neither graceful nor gorgeous. The professional botanist tells us that “its leaves are acute, erect, or ascending; pedicels short; inner sepals commonly erose or some- what glandular-ciliolate.” Which means, in every-day words, that the leaves are sharp- pointed and grow upward, hugging the stalk: that the little stems on which the flowers grow are short; that the outer coverings of the buds have a gnawed and hairy appearance at the edges. This plant is a cousin of Linum usitatissi- mum, which has given the world its linen from time immemorial. The days are gone when every American farmer raised some flax and when the women folk had to use their spare time, after cooking, tending the garden, feed- ing the chickens, dressing the children, clean- ing the house, etc., in spinning and weaving, and with their passing the flax family has had to shift for itself. The range of the broom flax extends from Vermont and Ontario southward. It prefers a dry or sandy soil. The honeybee is its prin- cipal pollen-carrier. PURPLE OR WATER AVENS Geum rivale lL. [Plate VI, right] This graceful plant, with its nodding, bell- shaped blossoms, belongs to the rose family, which is distinguished for the diversity of forms assumed by its members. It is a cousin of the ninebark, the meadow-sweet, the hard- hack, the goatbeard, the pear, the apple, the chokeberry, the mountain ash, the white thorn, the strawberry, the cinquefoil, the agrimony, the rose, and the sweetbrier. From Newfoundland and Saskatchewan to New Jersey and Colorado, this species seeks low, wet ground, being almost as much of a wader as the pickerelweed (see Plate III). So sweet is the purple avens’ honey-cup that the bumblebee will often desert his favorite primrose for it, and very frequently grows so impatient for the flower’s opening that he eats through the sepals in order to steal the sweets. The purple avens’ flowers nod their heads to keep the dew and rain from filling their cups and drowning their pollen. CORN COCKLE Agrostemma githago L. [Plate VII, left] Whether the corn cockle is a beautiful flower or a pestiferous weed depends upon the point of view. Like the English sparrow and the rat, it insists upon residing with the farmer, whether he will or he won’t, and unless it is to get the better of the argument he must keep fighting all the time. The ox-eye daisy, the yarrow, the mulleins, and the plantains ask no specially prepared —— MIDSUMMER WILD FLOWERS seed-beds. They grow side by side with the grasses. But the corn cockle is a little more fastidious. It likes the same surroundings as wheat and matures its seeds at the same time. In this way it gets reaped and threshed with the grain, garnered with it, and sown again with it. Thus it not only steals its bit of ground away from the wheat, but forces the farmer to culti- vate it. Like so many of the weeds that make the farmer’s hard life harder, the corn cockle is an immigrant from Europe. It is a native of Asia, but followed civilization into Europe, and then crossed the seas to America in earth bal- last, in packing straw, and in seed grain. Once landed on these shores, its star of em- pire swept westward until it claims as its own the entire wheat-, barley-, rye-, and oats-grow- ing territory of the New World. Even in Shakespeare’s time it was a pest. Biron, in “Love’s. Labour’s Lost,” exclaims, “Alons! Alons! sow’d cockle, reap’t no corn.” Still further back in the history of man we find Job exclaiming, “Let thistles grow instead of wheat and cockle instead of barley.” The United States Department of Agricul- ture classes the corn cockle as one of the prin- cipal poisonous plants, the dangerous qualities being contained in a soluble, odorless powder called saponin, which possesses a sharp burn- ing taste and provokes violent sneezing when inhaled, even in small quantities. When agi- tated in water, it foams like soap. _When the corn cockle blossom opens it car- ries a fine “display ad.” in magenta and white, announcing that messengers are wanted to con- vey pollen to other flowers. The length of the carriers’ tongues rather than the fleetness of their wings is the test of employment. One species of night-flying moth never seeks serv- ice elsewhere, and while sipping the nectar of the cockle-cup and carrying the pollen from the blossom’s anthers also takes occasion to lay its eggs in the heart of the flower, so that its larve may have a well-stocked larder of immature cockle seeds. The corn cockle has many family relations, among them being the spurries, the pearworts, the chickweeds, the campions, the catchflies, and the carnations. Bouncing-bet and ragged- robin are likewise cousins. LAMBKILL OR SHEEP LAUREL Kalmia angustifolia L. [Plate VII, middle] _ The heath family, of which the lambkill is a member, has many branches, ranging from the creeping snowberry and the trailing arbutus to the kalmias, the thododendrons, the azaleas the huckleberries, and the cranberries. The lambkill is a shrub of lesser proportions than the common kalmia, or mountain laurel (whose biography appears on page 488 of the June, 1917, number of Tue GEOGRAPHIC), and Its flowers are similar but smaller and of a crimson pink. They cluster closely around the stem, which is terminated by newer leaves, this again being a point at variance with the larger species. Coy Cy The range of the species is from Canada to Georgia. GAYFEATHER OR BLAZING STAR Lacinaria squarrosa (L.) Hill. [Plate VII, right | The gayfeather, which possesses many other names in the vernacular, among them “colic root,” “rattlesnake master,’ “blazing star,’ and “button snakeroot,” flowers from June to Sep- tember and is found as far north as Ontario, as far south as the Gulf of Mexico, and as far west as Nebraska. The flowers at the top of the stem open first and those further down in the order of their position. All have both stamens and pistils, and cater to the long-tongued bees, flies, and moths. The rural name of “rattlesnake master” comes from the belief that the tuber at the root of the plant possesses properties that will cure the bite of a rattlesnake. PURPLE WILD-BERGAMOT Monarda media Willd. [Plate VIII, left] The purple wild-bergamot, like the hyssop skullcap, pictured on Plate IV, and described on page 53, is a member of the mint family. It is a variety, according to some authorities, of the species Monarda fistulosa. It grows in most thickets from the Appalachian Mountains west to Minnesota. The Monardas are particularly adapted to the entertainment of the butterflies, though bumblebees also frequent them and sometimes hive bees are their guests. The two stamens and the two-parted pistils are so situated that no visitor whose tongue is long enough to sip the blossom’s nectar can avoid a pollen dusting from the former or escape paying a pollen toll for the latter. . HAIRY PENTSTEMON OR BEARD TONGUE Pentstemon hirsutus (L.) Willd. [Plate VIII, middle | Flowering. in midsummer, over a territory that stretches from Ontario and Manitoba to Florida and Texas, the hairy pentstemon is a member of the versatile figwort family, which includes the mulleins, the yellow toadflax, and the Indian paintbrush, described in previous issues of the National, GkocRAPHIC MAGAZINE (May, 1015; June, 1016, and June, 1917, re- spectively). Its preferences in matter of en- vironment lead it to dry or rocky fields, thick- ets, and open woods. Its blossom first develops stamens and is therefore in the first stage of its existence a male flower. When these have given their pol- len to the bees they are succeeded by pistils, which transform the blossom into a female flower. Thus cross-fertilization is assured. The scientific name comes from the densely bearded, sterile fifth stamen. This stamen makes a series of curves from the upper to the under side of the flower, a fact which makes it serve admirably in closing the mouth of the 56 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE flower against pilfering invaders. i°) S B) & ~ oe o) oe = oD S Vv = ~~ is) vo ‘= o0 vo = ~~ wD & ‘2 a) yj Oy, La © c ted to S AHH 1Ca en ded prepared for it was del >» The beauty of its propor to have be ‘g1oy poting sie A1O}sIY ysysuxy ur ajou yo usw Auvyy “szepNoipusdsag 9Yy} OF UPUIION oY} WoIz ‘Qanpoyyoie yspsurxy Jo spAjs Asada soyes1odio09ut pue puelsuy ul yosinyo ysoSuo] ay} st yy “(14 aSed aos) UIYPIA s[epoy}es JO [N}INesq JSOU PUB JsoyIII oY} FO 9UO Sf} Jajsoyour A ‘A[[eUto}xXo SuIIAUIUN pue Uleld IVAGHHLVO WLSHHONIM *py'] “0D ojyoydosay jesquag © (erdoy,, wor1y ydersojoyg yO AdO[S puv wsteyo AvipNoed S}OO1 UAI}S ou ae :SARS *P]IOM dy} []V UL sperpoyy (‘PZ ased ‘MdIA JO1IN}UI 99) [fe Jo suidnois snoruowiey pure pourns Y} Ul [VATA s}t Spuy jJyos}t oovped oy} (0g osed) ujooury pure (zg osed) yIOX jo AANQsyeS 10 JoJSONO[S) YPM JIS} oinsvout youuvds Jo}SIO]I oy, “(42 ased) ApiyT fo o[qes Y} ysurese 10 ‘(€Q osed) sustury JO osde Sulsieos dy} sures ‘ynq JO yory oe PuNnOIS Sj} plo ‘ay} ssedins 10 [vnbd pynom YoryM syealt puy oO} Asva oq ppnom jt ‘A[Sur1s usye} ‘sjoafqo osay}y JO ysour 29 SUOLUL [VAII OU SPY SSUIP]Ing [eoseisajooo FO dnoss sity} yey} Sulaepoap ‘Ajrsoyjne poysinsuysip sug UL ‘S,plaeq 39 JO JI! SULILOS AY} SYOV] osnoy-sagjdeyo oy} ! (92 asvd) > APYSIU OY} Ul “TOT, 9AOGK JO ‘SuLsueI SMOPUIM UOT} “JOUULD Fos} YSINYyD oy J, «lo Vad LNSHIONV dO AdOadV NV,,—IVadu HLvo STITH ydeis0joyg , WH TaN \ jeordoy,,, WOE ee yoydosay [eijUID © N Wy , yj WA// Ye Mf yy, Y “We YW, \ WAS s \ AGG . x ‘ s SS \\ CGGC{CE S A hi THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE THE INVERTED ARCHES OF THE WELLS CATHEDRAL This curious St. Andrew’s Cross shows how builders of the Middle Ages could convert a necessity into a beautiful architectural feature. During the construction of the central tower (see page 73), it was discovered that the four piers supporting it were weak. A second lower arch was built and a third inverted arch was then added. Thus the piers receive a steady support along their whole height. ay Z < (a) I O baal ae eH jad O nN — 6 aa a jaal ao = RAE CEC CAST | | oe THE WEST FRONT OF THE PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL, The visitor enters the precinct of this majestic religious edifice through a Gothic gateway, seen in the right foreground. In form, proportion, and general effect, this west front is perhaps unrivaled in Gothic architecture. Catherine of Aragon, Henry VIII’s unhappy queen, is buried here. CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD Y j j j Y OE yj 3 WY ij Yi y Y Y; Y WH Uy ¥ 4 jy Uy ip Ly VY yp J Yyj4/ Ree WS Yj Yi VEE iit Wy, Y UY SAUER’ WER SS | eS : Photograph from ‘Topical’? @ Central Aerophoto Co., I,td. AIRPLANE VIEW OF ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL This truly noble Renaissance building in the heart of London is the masterpiece of Sir Christopher Wren. The most imposing feature is the central dome, which is acknowledged to be one of the finest that ever crowned a great church. St. Paul’s is the burial-place of the famous naval and military heroes of Great Britain, the most conspicuous shrines being those of Nelson and Wellington. ne - Seton Se RAR sR 0 aoe WAG : . SSW QA > S LQG( S§HQAAAY SA ia. daa . ~ 3 SERRA SSE SO Ae ps THE NAVE OF LINCOLN CATHEDRAL The present structure, too low for the width of the “one of the loveliest of human ins corm on: av nn sbnclict = faase bo wo US so“ bp si ais bess = oso SOS o ee ee ee%e is 3 Sra) =o a b> Oo + gOS Om 7 auke g23s VVAaS Gia ox SU Hu Yao PA SS Co) ~ of Sesh °° On fel IS Me OS Spee OD eM Sc — om He cao OOS mH Y 5 Zo aS a, Sw aVesa fof red — faa ae Pa ch ae Ne Os: a ea oO ge ge Ss oe) Ke, peel Bi es Bees Yo Vo Soh Noa Hw VU The first church on this site, h its three lofty towers, crowning a The interior of Lincoln’s sh The choir is a very early nave. works.” wit CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD 81 avoiding the constructive and decorative exaggerations into which the architects of those days were apt at times to stray. By a study of the table of comparative dimensions, it will be seen that the main body of the Washington cathedral, meas- uring 500 feet from the western front to the apse at the easterly end, will be equal in length to any of the English cathedrals except York, which exceeds it by a few feet (see page 62). The length given for Canterbury, Win- chester, Ely, and Westminster includes certain subsidiary buildings, erected in some cases centuries after the main struc- ture and scarcely to be reckoned in an estimate of the over-all length of the main church. Such are the curious Becket Chapel (40 feet) at Canterbury, the Galli- lee porch (45 feet)eat Ely. the aWady. Chapel (40 feet) at Winchester, and Henry VII’s Chapel (120 feet) at West- minster, where the length of the main church is 410 feet. The Washington building will be longer than any French cathedral, ex- ceeding Amiens (page 83) by 25 feet and Notre Dame, Paris (page 88), by 58 feet. The widths of the naves are taken be- tween the centers of the piers. The Washington nave, 45 feet, exceeds Can- terbury by 12, Ely by 8, Winchester by 5, and Westminster by 5 feet. Lincoln is wider by 1 foot and York by 8 feet. The French cathedrals given are wider, as to their naves, by from 1 to 7 feet. In height the Washington nave (95 feet) exceeds all of the English examples except Westminster (page 67), whose apex is 103 feet above the floor. It is outclassed by the French cathedrals, with their vast altitudes of 110, 125, and 15714 feet. COMPROMISE BETWEEN FRENCH AND ENG- LISH PROPORTIONS _ Inrespect of its proportions, the Wash- ington nave escapes the exaggerated length of the English and the dispropor- tionate height of the French cathedrals. As a rule, the English cathedrals are too long for their height, the French too high for their length. The English monastical builders sought to 1mpress by far-reaching vistas of enor- mous length, the French by carrying their vaults to awe-inspiring heights. In the Washington cathedral, with 95 feet of height to 500 feet of length, the architect has found the happy mean of proportional propriety. Majestic will be the long 500-foot sweep of the nave, choir, and apse, lifting the ridge of their roofs to a uniform height of 134 feet above grade, and re- lieved by the bold projection of the tran- sept and by the suitably proportioned masses of the two western towers and the great central tower at the intersection of nave and transept. That this majesty has been secured without any sacrifice of grace and deli- cate beauty will be evident from a study of the photograph on page 60, showing the already completed apse. THE CENTRAL TOWER TO BE CHIEF GLORY The detached buttress piers, sur- mounted by pinnacles; the flying but- tresses between these piers and the clear- story wall; the finely traceried clearstory windows; the boldly battlemented para- pet, broken by the pinnacled wall but- tresses, with the steeply pitched roof above—all of these will be repeated, with modifications, throughout the walls of the choir and transept. The nave, although designed in the same Fourteenth Century English Gothic, will be somewhat more sober 1n treatment than the choir ; for we miss here, both on the outer piers and on the wall buttresses, the ornate pinnacles which enrich the choir. The risk of monotony in a building of this length, due to the repetition of simi- lar forms, 1s further avoided by extend- ing the side aisles of the choir only to the fifth bay from the tower. Beyond this the wall rises flush from base to para- pet, with the buttress piers standing clear of the wall and many feet distant there- from—all with a most pleasing variety of architectural effect. In any exterior view of the cathedral, its crowning glory will be found in the great central tower, which rises 262 feet above grade, or 33 feet higher than the lovely Angel Tower at Canterbury, which (in all justice be it said) may be sur- passed in height, but in beauty never (see illustration, page 63). The Washington tower, in spite of its greater mass, possesses the charm which is inherent in good architectural propor- tioning. As at Canterbury, the vertical 82 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Creté RHEIMS CATHEDRAL, BEST BELOVED SHRINE IN FRANCE, BEFORE ITS BAPTISM OF FIRE Happily, German guns did not destroy all the beauty of this wonderful cathedral. The Rose Window is gone, however, and many of the 550 statues which adorned the portals. Many kings of France were crowned here. A statue of Jeanne d’Arc stands before the entrance, recalling the historic incident of the part played by the Maid of Orleans in the coronation of Charles VII in this cathedral. A copy of the statue now stands in Meridian Hill Park, Washington. CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD 3 CD ] Hwee SANS AMIENS CATHEDRAL Although regarded as too short for its height, this cathedral is one of the noblest churches of the Old World and has been called ‘The Parthenon of Gothic Architecture.” Colossal statues of twenty-two kings of France stud the gallery in the facade. The deeply recessed portals are dedicated to the Saviour, the Virgin, and to St. Firmin, the first bishop of Amiens. 84 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ROUEN CATHEDRAL Considered one of the finest Gothic edifices in Normandy, Rouen’s Notre Dame is never- theless unsymmetrical in plan. The cast-iron spire surmounting the central tower is the loftiest in France—485 feet. With the exception of the highest story, the St. Romain tower (at the left) dates from the twelfth century and is the oldest part of the building. Ol CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD 8 Yj 4 TOURS CATHEDRAL The facade, constructed from 1426 to 1547, is a notable example of the waning Gothic style called Flamboyant. Henry IV said it was a jewel for which only the casket was want- ing. It is noted for the beauty of its richly colored glass windows. ‘The two towers, 226 and 230 feet in height, are in the Renaissance style of the sixteenth century. 86 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by P. O. Bugge TRONDHJEM CATHEDRAL, NORWAY Begun about 1020, this pride and glory of Norway is the most northerly cathedral in Europe. The architecture of the oldest parts is Norman, but many changes along early English lines were made. The kings of Norway are crowned here. The cathedral contains the tomb of St. Olaf, the national hero. CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD 7 QQ WS IG SS GY; i, QQ AG Vo W CSS ‘ — Oy \N\ =o THE NAVE OF PARIS’ GREAT CATHEDRAL The most striking features of Notre Dame’s interior are the rose windows representing Christ and the Virgin surrounded by the prophets, and the celebrated carvings on choir and pulpit. The vaulting is supported by 75 pillars. Tor an exterior view see page 88. *ZQ o8ed 99S MOIA IOIIOJUT Ue 1O,J “Salinjusd IOF 419 dy} Je UMOP pozeS dARY Jey} S1d}sUOW aNbsa}013 pue sefAOB1eS YYWM Poapottous IV sIIMO} oY], “OUUY UTES FO IF] OYF UT SJUDAD pue ,“UISITA 9y} JO YduNIIy,, oY} ,{juoUSpNf jse’],, 24} Sunuaseidas oanjzd[nos Wy}0D Ayiva Jo sajdwexs opsinbxe s1e S100P 94} 1OAO SNOILVIOOSSV ‘IVOINOLSIH JO AYNSVAUL V—ANIAS AHL AGISAd “AW VC AULON Boj0oyd ¥ 93019 Aq ydes +e WM Lik ee Bee Pt a cal : apr my Vet Z — . 88 ae choir The SS NS « 4 ~ STONI IN 4 4 ¥ EN CALLED POINT-LACI 4 BE 4 4 ¥ IN THE CHARTRES CATHEDRAL HAVI S) 4 J a] SCULPTURI 12600. nh 14 and completed two « rated in 15 4 = YU n an SS es — OD So <5) ~ =e Nn wD = cs = > iB) sy , ~ r ct wn =e Ss t c Ty I in wean Or Cl edifices 1c c f the Madonn lves oO he 1 FEPreseniinie SCENES 1h) it 2 ttt later. In its present form tne Chartres Cathedral, which is one of the grandest Goth centuries screen, with its 41 sculptured groups ‘QdYIpe dy} JO UOTJONAJSUOD dy} 1OJ IOFI UT paydope UOTNIOSaI dy} Sprat ,‘udsUpeU I19aM 9M Avs [][eYys Ajitoysod yey} [e1payyeo e Yons q2019 SN j9’J,, ° 201 ” AI9S 0J0Ug (Z11 a5ed *}X9} 99S) P[IOM JY} UT SotnjoNA}s (c6 AOvVd OS'IV AAS) AVIIAAS AO ‘IVACHUHLVO AHL ‘ S19y sjqng O ga Oo é UISOGWII JSOLU pu }S9YDII VY} JO QUO SI pue sdoiny Ul YdIMyYO jsa SIC] PUODIS JU} ST SIU, 9O CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD 91 lines are emphasized at the expense of the horizontal—an effect which is due chiefly to the absolutely plain, square masses which form the corners of the tower and extend without a break from roof to parapet. The same motif reveals itself, with even greater emphasis, in the towers which flank the southerly front of the transept. Additional variety is given to the south- west view of the cathedral by two oc- tagonal structures—a turret stairway built against the wall of the nave at the fourth bay from the transept, and the finely proportioned baptistery, access to which from the church is had through a groined corridor. The tall traceried windows of the bap- tistery, with flying buttresses between, surmounted by a rich parapet and a lofty eight-sided roof, render this an architect- ural gem in itself and a worthy adjunct to the great church which it flanks. THE WESTERN FRONT In appraising the architectural merit of a modern cathedral we inevitably and very properly compare it with the superb ecclesiastical buildings which are the sole surviving evidence, on the grand scale, of the architectural genius of the Middle Ages. They are indeed a priceless heritage for the archeologist and a veritable encyclo- pedia for the guidance of the modern architect. If we thus refer to the ancient cathe- drals for a measure of the excellence of the Washington facade, we are con- fronted with an anomaly; for we find that whereas the French architects en- deavored to make their fronts a notable feature, 1f not the noblest, of the whole cathedral, the English, in the majority of cases, seem to have given little thought to the western front and to have been content to erect a rather modest entrance at the side of the nave. Only at York (page 62), Wells (page 73), and Peterborough (page 78) has an attempt been made to render the western front and its porches a worthy expression of the great structure beyond. The French delighted in deep and lofty porches, never providing less than three and sometimes as many as five, all enriched with such a wealth of sculpture that it frequently flowed over and spread itself throughout the whole area of the facade, to the very top of its great flank- ing towers. Too often the English facades are cold, formal, and altogether inexpressive of the size and rich variety of the body of the church beyond. And here again we think that the archi- tect of the Washington cathedral has found the happy mean. ‘The lofty cen- tral porch, go feet in height, and the two side porches, 60 feet high, not only cor- respond in strict proportion to the nave and side aisles to which they, severally, form the entrance, but by their great height and width, and the fact that they are recessed fully 40 feet beyond the face of the facade, they challenge comparison with Peterborough, the finest of the Eng- lish examples, and with the justly famous porches of Rheims (page 82) and Amiens (page 83). The treatment of the western towers is marked by the fine restraint and well- balanced sense of proportion, which char- acterizes the whole fabric of the cathedral. The embellishment, in the form of statu- ary and decorative carving, is rich without being excessive. The buttressing is strong, simple, and so drawn as to emphasize the height of the towers. Moreover (and this marks always the true artist in monumental building), there is an ample and. satis- fying area of plain, undecorated wall sur- face. THE NAVE The sense of restful satisfaction with which we look upon a perfect architec- tural work is due to the perfect propor- tion of its linear dimensions, the nice bal- ance of its masses, and the good taste with which its decorative enrichment is applied. The Washington nave meets each of those requirements. Entering the nave from the west, the eye ranges through the full length of the cathedral— nave, crossing, choir, and sanctuary—to rest upon the far-distant stained-glass windows of the apse. The long line of stately columns, the rich tri- forium, the spacious and deeply recessed windows of the clearstory, lift the eye to the unbroken line of the vaulted ceiling, the whole combining to give instantly an 92 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE © Publishers’ Photo Service THE REPUTED CASKET OF COLUMBUS IN THE SEVILLE CATHEDRAL Most historians maintain that the body of Columbus rests in Santo Domingo, where it was brought after his death in Spain. The bones removed by the Spaniards to Seville when the island was surrendered to the French are, in all probability, those of Diego Columbus, son of the great admiral. CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD 93 \S QQ{E_EE|Q|QGQGGQ IGA BURGOS CATHEDRAL, SPAIN Founded in part by an English bishop in 1221, this shrine is one of the most richly ornate examples of Gothic architecture in the world. The octagonal lantern above the central cross- ing terminates in eight crocketed and perforated pinnacles adorned with statues of angels, martyrs, warriors, and princes. A relic of the Cid, Spain’s national hero, is kept here. THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE iijesbesitcibsaasilstbasiictieti Uiliaabaseivcicdiastiacssbiaslaissiaiiblitis i Besant: MiB ROBE: 5 & s 8 we ad Re ee iat Sah EDO THE INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL AT TOL nish n o0 = = > = is} 3) oO a _ > a typically Spa i thout i not w ’ thin i The glories of Toledo lie w beauty and magnificence (see text, page 114). ideal. 1c iew of the nave shows the trascoro, or rear of the cho ion of the Goth This v adaptat are unsurpassed for CO 54 CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD WAG Y Z Y y Y Yj Y Y Y Yj Yy, Wy: Y 5} YE, et a ea pn VU LLL ff LULL OL hy Y bi Z Yy Y, ip BN. NS N \ MDW SSNS WwW L]y 0 Dwg OWN MX THE VERJA, OR SCREEN, TOLEDO CATHEDRAL Behind this exquisitely hammered screen is the High Altar, a small church in itself. A bewildering aggregation of small columns, niches, statues, foliage, and arabesques, painted and gilded with matchless splendor, extends to the vaulted roof and all around the sanctuary. 96 THE ATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE © Dr. Orrin S. Wightman ST. ISAAC’S CATHEDRAL, PETROGRAD The first shrine of All the Russias was begun in 1819. Inside and out, the gigantic proportions, the profusion of marbles, the brilliance of the gilding, the elaborate mural paintings, and the gleam of the polished pavement, produce a dazzling impression of beauty and magnificence. After Pompey’s pillar and the column of Alexander in Petrograd, the 48 columns of the four porticos of St. Isaac’s, 56 feet high and 6% feet in diameter, are said to be the largest single stones which the hand of man has cut, rounded, and polished. CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD N N ai Mi 7 MSS W Photograph from Publishers’ Photo Service ST, STEPHEN’S CATHEDRAL, VIENNA The lofty spire of St. Stephen’s towers over an almost perpendicular roof made of brilliantly colored glazed tiles, many of which have been used in forming the conspicuous double-headed eagle, the Hapsburg coat of arms. ‘This cathedral, begun in the twelfth century, is the finest Gothic edifice in Austria. In the second story of the tower is the great bell of 1711, weighing 20 tons. ; Beneath the church are extensive catacombs and the old imperial burial vault. 98 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE initiate PSP ee owt —_— Teeter, phy " s = . . a in Ai Da lg Rie i oT wen ¥ Len : COLOGNE CATHEDRAL Founded in 1248, this shrine was not completed until 1880. Its immensity, beauty of proportion, and wealth of decoration are celebrated. “Rows of massive flying buttresses, piers, pinnacles, spires, needles, crockets, towers, mullioned windows, portals, niches filled with figures, carvings, and grotesque gargoyles” produce an astonishing effect. Its twin spires soar to a height of 512 feet. CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD 99 CE teonenetasesibdsspisibossostsbdssssiion STRASSBURG CATHEDRAL _ _ This ancient church, which in its present form represents the activities of four centuries, is built of red sandstone. Upon the three noble porches of the facade is recorded in stone the history of the Creation and Redemption. Among the churches of France, its north tower, rising to a height of 465 feet, is exceeded only by that of Rouen (see page 84). 100 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE p © Donald McLeish ST, PETER’S, IN ROME, THE LARGEST CHURCH IN THE WORLD (SEE PAGE IIT) Founded by the Emperor Constantine, the majestic edifice owes much of its splendor to Michael Angelo and to Raphael, who were engaged in its construction and decoration. The facade is surmounted by a balustrade with statues of Christ and the Apostles. The piazza in front is inclosed with huge colonnades, each of which contains four series of Doric columns. CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD 101 ow N \ \ _ a tH), SSS. © Donald McLeish THE FACADE OF THE CATHEDRAL AT SIENA Built between 1229 and 1380, Siena’s shrine is of red, black, and white marble, richly decorated with statues of prophets and angels. Its fagade is considered the finest in Italy. - If the plans of 1340 had materialized, the existing building would have been only a transept of one of the largest cathedrals in the world. The remains of the huge nave of this proposed structure are still to be seen. Surues’y oy} st puosoag yor]q YIM pojyUsWeUIO ysia’JoW_ preuog © ‘ aque "SJUDIUITIOdxX9 S OITI]VS) JO JUVDS 9Y} ‘I9MOT, ‘(111 9sed 4x9} 99S) Satyo URTeI] J9y}O UT pozeput ApJD9J1odut useq sey spede} JUSIYTUSeW oY], Ul d}IYM JO SI }]T “LOO Ul OWWJaTeg IvauU sUeSTG 94} JO AIOJIA [LALU JY} I}JEIOUIOWIUIOD 0} }ING SBM ][eIpIy}ed SIT, VSId LV IVAGHHLVO AHL ‘spueq poiojoo pue 102 Wood SPY 9ANJONAYS Sty} ‘OSE UT UNSog “SuTAIeD asny ev oyI] Ieodde OJUTP AM JO AJO1LUO ENG ST 4] ysio’ Poy preuod O WWVEEE AGG WOAH \Y \ PY ee \ Nee AX Xs CQ XK N MG ~~. LY Z yy, Y WY UY Y ty { $f yy Y YY Y 4 Yy Yi WH) Z iy, ‘adounsy Ul YOINYS ysosivy oy} st TVUGHHLVO NVIIW FHL WW "ENS XI WG : ss " secs cx e . \\ ARB AK Se me A Y, SK NX GCG GGG GG Ni \ RSS RRLLRMAYBPG{Gl Yj N ‘ SSS w wp Yt, GE WY t ia LO? OOM MM 8 WE CCC |S Ans SS —— ers WO «PIIOM 9Y} JO JopuOM YWYsSI9 9Y},, Auew fq poutrepoosd AYIPI OY} PYVUL FOOL dy} Surusope sonyeys pue sosids yo spospuny oyy * ‘ Vy I SIU} ‘o[IAOG Je [eIpay}ed oy} pu 9WIOY Je SJoJOgq IG JO UOTWdIdxKa dy) YA ‘o[qaeut LD ED jyjy/ yy Yj ” WU; N WOH 103 i Ley YY yy GV 0B Led VL Up Md wy WM WEG 8 MQGQKe wot SG S RR_ERK 104 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ge © Donald McLeish MARBLE SPIRES RISING FROM THE ROOF OF THE MILAN CATHEDRAL These pinnacles are decorated with more than 2,000 statues, most of which are hundreds of feet above the streets. All are of marble and of the most delicate workmanship (see text, page II1). CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD WR AS Gy Pr’ C mp WW YG Gg OMA DI = \ WV _ A McLeish | NGS WW \N \ WN WG G@ LAE NEL . \ \ \N \ \ Uy ae \ REREN SG. GGG NN \ M\ \ iW’ XG Wvv wv II I EASE AN ONS x BD QGG_{{{O|]RGxbivr WS Nitin, Gh WS \\ \S —— we \ \ SN RH \ \ 4 ty a Wy ZZ. WM gy yy iptural i © Dona Other scr WITH ITS WONDERFUL CARVI ion of Eve. de panels 1 bd in stone on the s MILAN CATHEDRAL, ted events are depic THE GREAT DOOR OF THE The sculptured panel over the entrance represents the creat 106 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE © Donald McLeish THE MAIN PORTAL OF THE CATHEDRAL, OF VERONA Behind the columns and griffins are rough relief sculptures of Roland and Oliver, the famous paladins of Charlemagne. The nave and Gothic windows of this Romanesque structure of the twelfth century are of a later time. Beside the cathedral rises an unfinished campanile resting upon an ancient base. One of the priceless possessions of the church is a painting of the Assumption by Titian. CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD 107 OS © Donald McLeish THE PIAZZA OF VENICE. THE CHURCH OF ST. MARK, AND THE NEW CAMPANILE The domes of St. Mark reflect a Byzantine influence. The new Campanile, 322 feet high, is an exact reproduction of the original bell-tower, begun in 874, which fell in 1902. Pigeons are said to have been kept in the square since the crusader Dandolo received valuable information by carrier pigeons while besieging Candia. ‘They were formerly fed at the expense of the city, but are now dependent upon the charity of visitors. ‘Q6F1 Ul pauing pue ssoid & UO pasueYy sem ejoreUOARS dIIYM ‘LIIOUSIG Rap ezzelq IY} Survey ‘oryd9A OZZeTe I4O}SIY Il} JO JIMO} JY} SI }J2T FY} OF, “S1oy}O pue O]Ja}eu0g Aq sjal[e1 pue sanjzejs YIM peusope pur Sa[qivul po10jOI-AULUE Y}IM padR} ‘19MO}-[[9q PITBALIUN $,0}JOIr) ‘aptuURdUIeD dy} SastI YOINYD 9Y} episaq “SsuIpjoyeos 10 sj1oddns ynoy}iM pajoNsJSUOD UIIq SuIAKY 10} I[qeYIeUldI SI} “S.1d]9g JS FO 9WIOP adURSsIvUDY JY} 0} d[qeredulod sit Jamo] y ay} FO Ape’T INO fo sWOp dIyI0H sy, _OIHOOAA OZZWIVd AHL ANV ‘AYALSILdvVd “WIINVdWVO ‘OWONd AHL ONIMOHS AONAYOTA AO MAIA 108 : “IULOP TOWMULL YF AOF uv oy? ueruysnf 119d dy} 0} paywaAdgs Josue uv skvs pusso’y ‘possedinsun si souojs snorwo.ad pue ‘sJassaA JDATIS pue plod SOTGIVLU SS9TIIAD FO UO IIPOI Ss} puv ‘p[1OM IY} JOAO [[L WOIF dud SUOTNAIIJUOD ‘oo0'O00'FOs SeM ‘savak Q UeY} SSat UL pojo[duos pue easy ayy uvluysnf Aq ELS UL popuno} ‘OYIPo SNOLBII1 S1IOJSIY Sty} FO S]Isudjn YyOInyo pur ‘sjusuvUsO ‘10qQR] ‘[eLioyeu ‘punoss JO soo poyeurtjsa [v}0} oa UNMITV WHISOW GNV NVILSINHO OL Gauovs ‘VIHdOS VIONVS “ “N ~ . rms y Pyspy yyy yyy ~ \ \ \ : 7 His YZ Ys Z YY YY Hy Yj Vj tility me WK \ e oa r " us Bre i 7 g j y y yyy tYyiyy \ ; a i " A YY) A X SX N \N SS WONOM AV MACON WES S\\\s S\ 109 ‘Jaoy COT JO WYSIIY & OF VST YOIYM ‘s19M0} ULM} JY} FO SatUOp podeys-]Jaq 94} IIe JINnjoNI}s sy} FO soniiernoed ay} suowy ,,Wweye[qjog ‘oypianyy Aq Sunured Jeursi10 ue sureyuod }T ‘Aq IvaU PoOo}s Jey} ‘BdYTIVVG Fo s[dulay, 10 ‘Ieye 991ZY yeoIs oy} JO sSuTeulot oY} Seu uvipuy painjdinos yo Ayarjua ysouye posodwos st auojyspues Avis puv }eseq FO sinjontjs OATsseUU STY} FO UOIJepUNOF OYJ, OOIXAN AO .SMALad WLS,, HL jO UISITA OY, jO owios pure so IIo CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD impression of mysterious solemnity and majestic repose.* FRANCE AND ENGLAND JOINTLY RESPON- SIBLE FOR GOTHIC STYLE The Gothic style found its most perfect expression in the French cathedrals of the thirteenth century and the English of the fourteenth, the French developing later the luxurious Flamboyant and the English the rigid but stately Perpendic- ular style. Although France and England were conjointly the birthplace of Gothic, the new style exercised, as it was bound to do, a profound influence upon church architecture throughout the whole of Christendom, and notably in Italy and Spain. In each country it was modified by the climate, and bore the impress of the historic associations and the artistic tastes of the peoples among whom it was introduced—so much so, indeed, that we have come to speak of Italian and Span- ish Gothic as individual types in cathedral architecture. When the fires of persecution died down, and the early Christians of Rome were free to worship as they would, they found in the Roman Basilica or Law Court, with its central nave and side aisles, a building well suited to their sim- ple form of service. ‘To the Roman Ba- silica, therefore, we are indebted for the general plan of the Romanesque churches, of which Italy contains so many fine ex- amples. These are characterized by the use of the round arch for door and win- dow openings, and by the modified classic character of their details. Famous among such churches are St. Paul’s Without the Walls at Rome, and the smaller but more beautiful cathedral at Pisa (page 102), whose blind arcades, open galleries, and many-colored marbles render its exterior one of the most elegant among the an- cient churches of Italy. The oriental in- fluence upon early Italian church archi- *In a subsequent issue THE G&koCRAPHIC hopes to present a detailed description of the National Shrine of the Immaculate Concep- tion, another majestic religious edifice de- signed for the National Capital, the corner- stone of which was laid on the grounds of the Catholic University, September 20, 1920, and which, it is anticipated, will be completed within 30 years. font tecture is seen in the use of the domical roof, as in St. Mark’s at Venice (page 107), whose five domes and general treat- ment are suggestive of the Christian churches of the Byzantine Empire. In spite of the natural preference of the Italians for the classic forms, to which they were drawn by the ties of a proud tradition, it was inevitable that the splendors of the new Gothic style would appeal to the artistic feeling and stimulate the rivalry of Italian architects. But in making use of the new style, they left upon it the deep imprint of their own tra- ditions and tastes. Their genius for paint- ing, carving, and sculpture led them to de- pend as much upon these arts as upon architecture for effect. Partiality for the classic forms, more- over, caused them to include these, in modified form, not only in the details but sometimes, as in Milan Cathedral (pages 103, 104, and 105), as a main feature of the church itself; for here we have a Gothic church with a Gothic-Renaissance facade. MILAN CATHEDRAL BUILT OF MARBLE Milan has the distinction of being the third largest church in Christendom, a position which it will ultimately yield to the Church of ot. Johny the Divine? at New York. Its nave is of vast propor- tions, being 60 feet wide and 150 feet from the floor to the apex of its vault. Milan has the distinction, moreover, of being built entirely of marble, and it is thoroughly Italian in the superabundance of its carving and sculptural adornment. The Italian architects never seem to have been quite at home when working in the Gothic style; and when Pope Nich- olas called for the erection of a church, upon the banks of the Tiber, that should transcend in size and magnificence the temples of all lands and of every age, the master architects of the day returned to their first love, and, working in the forms and using the orders of ancient Rome, they built the great Renaissance Church of -St.. Peter... So -vast is this: structure that it stands in a class by itself. Witha total length of over 700 feet, it covers a ground area of 230,000 square feet. Next to it in size is the Spanish Gothic cathe- dral at Seville, with an area of 128,57 112 THE. NATIONAL’ GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE DETAILS OF THE WEST FACADE OF RHEIMS CATHEDRAL The west facade of this church, “perhaps the most beautiful structure produced in the Middle Ages,” is the supreme example of elaborate decoration in the early Gothic style. The sides and overhead vaulting of the three recessed portals and the gables above them are beautifully adorned with sculptures and carvings. (Photograph made before the damage done during the World War; see also page 82.) ‘The facades of the cathedrals of Notre Dame, Tours, Amiens, Strassburg, and Lichfield are similarly embellished. CATHEDRALS OF THE OLD AND NEW WORLD A LEERING GARGOYLE OF NOTRE DAME Hobgoblins, chimeras, and quaint little beasts in stone are among the most fascinating features of the sculptural adornment of the Paris cathedral. This particular demon seems to be in a morosely pensive mood as he surveys the gay capital where he was wont to work such mischief before his capture. 114 square feet, followed by Milan Cathedral, with an area of 107,000 square feet. The nave of St. Peter’s is 100 feet wide by nearly 150 feet high; the great dome, internally, is 135 feet in diameter, with a clear height of 333 feet. Italian Gothic may lay claim to having produced in the cathedral of Florence one of the greatest churches of the world (page 108). The genius of the Ital- Jans in the construction of domes has crowned this church with the noblest Gothic dome in existence, the octagon be- ing 136 feet in diameter and 375 feet to die top) of the external cross, ‘Near by stands the lovely, marble-encased campa- nile of Giotto, regarded by many critics as the finest example of that tower con- struction in which, whether working in Romanesque or modified Gothic, the Ital- ians excelled. SPANISH GOTHIC WAS AN IMPORTATION Spanish Gothic, like that of Italy, was an importation; and although in the period of its greatest development it was superior to the work of the Italians and more true to type, it bears, like the Ital- ian, the strong imprint of national tastes and predilections, especially in its deco- rative enrichment. : At the time when the Norman bishops were covering Saxon England with their stately, round-arched, Norman cathedrals, Christian Spain, having shaken off the Moorish yoke, was actively engaged in erecting churches on a style that was not widely dissimilar to the early Norman. ike the) Norman, the early ‘Spanish form of church probably was an intro- duction from France. Beginning as a round-arched style, it later adopted the pointed arch and assumed Gothic charac- teristics. This early Roman-Gothic was simple, but bold and dignified. Perhaps its most distinctive feature was the development of the dome at the intersection of nave and crossing. The Spanish architects ex- celled in this construction, and have left some notable examples of their skill. The finest examples of pointed Spanish Gothic belong to the “Middle” period, which lasted from about 1225 to 1425. Three of the notable cathedrals of the world, Toledo (pages 94 and 95), Burgos (page 93), and Seville (pages go and 92), THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE belong to this period. ‘The cathedral at Toledo, begun in 1227, a few years after the founding of Amiens, was designed to surpass that masterpiece in size and mag- nificence. Hence, everything is on the grand scale; and in area it exceeds every French cathedral, though its interior height is far below that of Amiens, Rheims, or Beauvais. I.xternally, the architectural result is disappointing and not to be compared with the great French examples. The glories of Toledo lie within, not without. Its impressive interior, made up of five aisles with the unusual total width of 178 feet, is enriched with such a wealth of carving and statuary, wrought in the dis- tinctive Spanish manner, that the result is bewildering and scarcely in keeping with the simplicity of true Gothic. In Burgos the conditions are reversed; for, unlike Toledo, this church shows to best advantage from without. Although it is not a large church, as cathedrals go, Burgos is admitted to present one of the finest architectural exteriors in the whole range of Gothic architecture. The west- ern towers, crowned with open-work spires (reminiscent of Cologne, page 98), with the richly-decorated octagons above the crossing and above the chapel at the eastern end, combine in a harmonious grouping, the picturesque beauty of which has never been questioned. SEVILLE HAS LARGEST GOTHIC CATHEDRAL The Cathedral of Seville (page 90) carries the distinction of being the largest and in some respects the noblest of all the Gothic cathedrals. Its plan, a parallelo- gram, 415 feet long by about 300 feet wide, followed that of a mosque which was torn down to make way for it. The area covered is about 123,000 square feet. No other Gothic cathedral approaches these dimensions. Not only is the cen- tral aisle nearly 60 feet in width, but flanking this, on each side, are two side aisles and a row of chapels, each 40 feet in width and therefore equal to the nave of most English cathedrals. The interior height is in proportion, and the whole effect of the many lines of massive col- umns is impressive to a degree that is not surpassed, in the opinion of many critics, by that of any other medieval Gothic cathedral. Vor NEI Noe2 WASHINGTON Avucust, 1922 THE NATIONAL GIEOGIRAP HIG MAGAZINE COPYRIGHT,1922,BY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY, WASHINGTON, D. C. DENMARK AND THE DANES By VMesurice PRANcIS EGAN. Wiars DD, AMERICAN MINISTER TO DENMARK, 1907-1918 den, rather prides itself on being the “Paris of Scandinavia,” largely because of its architecture and its mod- ernness; but the Danes, admitting with pride that Copenhagen is not altogether a modern city, rather claim that they are more like the Parisians than their neigh- bors in Sweden. There can be no question that Copen- hagen, so far as the street life in the cen- ter of the city is concerned, is extremely gay. The Danes like to dine in cafés, or, when the weather is pleasant, in the open street. It is quite true that if one knows enough Danish to understand scraps of conversation heard at random, he will soon discover that the amiable Dane is very fond of his food, and that all ques- tions of the table have much importance to him; I am not a master of the Danish language, and once I listened to a conver- sation with great interest and some un- derstanding. My vocabulary was not at that time large. I caught the names of “the Duke of Cambridge” and “the Duke of Cum- berland,’ and I was oppressed with the seriousness of the speakers. It seemed to me that some momentous political ques- tion was being discussed. My companion, a very distinguished Dane, suddenly joined in the talk; it was in the garden at Klampenborg, where five or six children, with their father and mother, were treat- ing themselves to some drops of cognac in small cups of black coffee. Genter | the capital of Swe- The talk became animated. As a di- plomatist, I was interested in the matter of the Hanoverian succession, which in- timately concerned the Duke of Cumber- land. Why the Duke of Cambridge should be brought in I could not say. I thought I heard the name of the Kaiser, too—this was before the war; but after a period of tense attention on my part, my companion interpreted the discussion for me. It had centered around the question as to whether the Duke of Cambridge or the Duke of Cumberland had really in- vented the famous Cumberland sauce, without which boiled ham in Denmark is not considered to be really ham at all. And the opinion of the Kaiser had been invoked. | “The Danes, unlike the English, do not take their amusements seriously; never- theless, they look on amusement as a very serious and necessary part of life. I re- call that one day, walking with a Danish officer, I saw a man hurrying into his apartment—very few people have houses in Copenhagen—and I said, “That is an edifying spectacle. See how that good husband and father rushes, after his business, to meet his family!” My friend gave me a glance of aston- ishment and looked at his watch. “He is five minutes late for dinner; that is the reason of his haste!” One of the charms of Copenhagen, in- deed, of Aarhus, of Odense, and of all the other Danish towns, is that the business of life is carried on with cheerfulness. AdOWNA NYAHLUON OL AVMALVS THL SI NYOVHNAdOOD AO LYOd AAYA AHL 116 >) *q ‘u0I8 }SUIYSe A IYSeM JO yet : ]} wey) I " a81e ULWIAIN ‘Ty “TO ole] Y}INOF v st UOTE d v ) 7 ) yh od os WAMOL, 'T oy “AIS Uy GNARL ON eu ee vy ; ‘ : TIO MO AO, TE IN ay L WOW Na u YVAN RSS a # ww MY : a yuu yo oid {dood oy} [Je JO Y}xIS-auO I uey} dJOJL Td09 SM BE RRS 117 ‘UlveSe IAT] SIO1NY] PUL SPOS 9S1ON pO YOY “AA “MA Wosy ydesis0j0Y,] ‘SUIP[ING IysofeUl SI} O}F AOJISIA dy} JoI1S 0} DUBIZUO dy} J pues dy} Spell OYM ‘aSv[yOsusTYyIO pue ‘sayjO} UMO J1oy} }e Ysney spdoad siy speul OYM “S1aqjo}{ FO Soinsy szu01g NYIOVHNAdOD NI WILVAHL IVAOY AHL SOLES SSE SERS EES = . = nee apg tate OLE ASSET MIRON ate ne $08 118 ‘SIMOY JOYA SuLANpP ouoO ATOAT] V SE Spuv}s Uossiq Aq on}e}s ULTAySONba AAVUNOD SI JO F[Lyoq Ul yqig, Sly puv wae sunysy sty YIOq papporm oyM UvUIss}e]s pue doysiqyoiy ue sem UOTeSqYy ST} YOM ur orenbs otyyp NYOVHN&dOO “Sdv'ld-owd [OH AHL NI FALVLS S.NO'IVSAV JIAO prasp woay YUvasoqoy j Mslay < : A . ark . . : : SP ae ; q ‘ SS : < ae “ ee . S oe : i e. Vif YI FO, Yi, iy yy typ QW LF ~ Wiyjp yy Vi iy YY YY Wj, Yj VL i i Wp Mig MME Uy (hs Z ty, yj Yi Wij j Yi ty y y yi y Yee Mizu CBYIYE TE II9Q S.A} OY} FO OMZ DIV FO] BY} OT, “S}ANOS IoydQ pruayy wosy ydeisojoyud S *s]O}OY jsasIE] JOUUT IAISUD}XI IIB III} FOOs Ssv[o }e TIVH NMOL, wo ‘SQHdVVa S NHAOVHNAdOO 318 B YJeousJopuN puUe SOUS FO JOS OU ® S! dJ0y} JOMO} 94} UT 120 3934 I21 Yi UT Yj) J fer mil Opt 4 4 aph from I « be Photog: DENMARK’S BOURSE — Y a ~~ = = _— => => — ~ = 4 ~~ « _ _ ~ ~ ~ _— — ~ — — ~ a Y pat ~ = . _=— & ~~ er” at A ~ « = Le __—_ t~Y —— ~ _ ~ c whe aaa) ead ct «a ast = — _ 4 — ae Va ~— sal = = IN ~~ « —“ = —s nn _-_ - oe) 5) - Cc = — 4) = a — a ent = == - > = ~ Oo CO ,o— — o = a O —_— ay Bs — . — a — a ~ = = w ‘ = -_= [xchange dates from 1610. s one of the most adm This j green copper dragons. Built in the Dutch Renaissance style, the Copenhagen 122 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Rhee, " mm oe oy preriill * aa Phetoaiapaieon Wide World Photos A ROYAL PROCESSION IN COPENHAGEN King Christian, accompanied by Queen Alexandrine, is seen leaving the Capitol after opening a session of the Danish Parliament. DENMARK AND THE DANES Work for work’s sake is not the aim of the Dane. He works well, but he neither works restlessly, nor nervously, nor constantly. Work with him is not the end of life, but a means of living; and the Danes, as a rule, enjoy the work in which they are engaged. If the Danes eat a great deal, they do not drink more than other people, and they seldom drink without eating. AI- though Denmark has not made prohibi- tion a law, yet the government has man- aged to raise the price of alcohol, and even the Danish schnapps, which was formerly almost as cheap as water, is now worth about four dollars a bottle, accord- ing to the present rate of exchange. This is a good thing, for schnapps was the bane of many a working man’s family. As a rule, the evils brought about by the saloon in this country do not exist, and while beer was looked on as a neces- sary article of diet, it was consumed in moderation. It must be admitted that the Danes are sometimes unjust to the Swedes. One was invariably informed that there were really no drunkards in Denmark, and if one pointed out occasionally a staggering figure or two, the explanation was made at once, “Oh, he’s a Swede!” Sweden and Denmark are very close together, being separated only by the Sound; and the virtuous Danes generally attributed any exuberant gaiety induced by spirits on Saturday nights to the inva- sion of Swedes, in whose country the laws governing the use of alcohol were very strict. DANES THINK AMERICANS TOO CONSERVA- TIVE ON DIVORCE QUESTION There is a general impression that divorce and remarriage are very easy in Denmark. It is true that the radical gov- ernment, especially when Alberti was Minister of Justice, made the annulment of marriage too facile. But there is no reason to believe that, in proportion, there are more divorces and remarriages in Denmark than in this country. Among the radicals who have thrown off the traditions of the Lutheran Church, marriage is not looked on as a serious matter; and Americans are regarded as 125 entirely too conservative in regard to marriage. Difficulties, owing to what may be called “trial marriages,” sanctioned by the state, do occasionally occur. In one case a distinguished lyric poet, for whose work I had a great admiration, died. I sent two telegrams and a wreath for his grave to his wife. The first telegram reached his first wife, the second his third wife, and the wreath the second wife. The Danes will brook no corruption in their government if they can possibly pre- vent it. They are extremely jealous of the national honor; no political power or prestige will save a man in office from punishment if he has betrayed his trust. The case of one of the cleverest men in Denmark—Alberti—is an example of this. No man was more admired, no man more trusted, in spite of what may be called his unmoral ideas as to the conjugal relation. The time came, however, in 1908, when he was accused and found guilty of the misuse of money. The axe fell; he was imprisoned and no mercy was shown him, although a month before his incarceration he had been covered with decorations and stood very high in the estimation, not only of the Danes, but of those Ituropean statesmen who had come in contact with him. SOCIAL BASIS OF LIFE IN AMERICA NOT UNDERSTOOD It is regrettable that in none of the three Scandinavian countries is the Con- stitution of the United States and its workings, or the social basis of our life, well understood. ‘The American-Scandi- navian Foundation, which has been in ex- istence for nearly fifteen years, has done much to make the culture and the point of view of the United States known in Denmark, Sweden, and Norway; but, unfortunately, only the sensational arti- cles in our newspapers are reproduced in the Danish press. Our cultural life, our economic life, and the moral canons which guide us are scarcely known at all by the body of the people. When former President Roosevelt came to Denmark, the ultra-radicals expected that he would announce opinions which were socialistic, communistic, or at least 124 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE o> The Skaw AA ‘A "Ska igen LE 7 Ao vA re Aiijorring> prs jae aM Jammer Bay _ SS _—_—— NOON

JENMARK) S = = ee Pe x seooe: 4 veeeer “ 3 & t+ + 2@e@ces Soe gete-s 4 : ah Sot e ehh fetes pee tice a4 Feel ‘ued YI [Ie sonpoid puery wary FO JOO} oAeNbs AyoAd oye Ay}, pue asVaIOe podyoLys91 ATMOAIeU DALY AIT, “PlJOM oy} Ul SJOUNpPAeS YOns] Ysoq oY} Suowe div SIOUAVA YSTUVC, OPT “SopPTYOA oY} UT Surg}? 1oyJO oy} pues “yeyy ‘sty} IOF syasoyo pue ‘suy pure sael AOJ soapoys ‘YIU JOF SyUL} o1e oJOY, “UreyUNO; Vk JOJVA-EPOS Ulopolu vB sv Apury se ysowpe—jiIng A[snorussul s1V sUOSeM ULI} oy} JO AuLPY “saONpoOsd oy} WoIZ YOo1rp sAnq siyjqnd oy} s19;7 ~~ QTIYOM AHL NI SYAMUVIN OLTANd ANOSAAALOId LSOW GNV LSHISNd AHL AO ANO SVH NFOVENTdAOO ABMOT[VSL) SuIMAT AG YURsasooY | ~ \ WoCR THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph from W. W. Rock IN THE COPENHAGEN FISH MARKET Not far from where these women are offering the previous day’s catch for sale is a restaurant, famous throughout Europe. fish that he wants baked or broiled. performances. Nothing can be more lovely or stimulating dramatically than the performance of national plays, or of Shakespeare’s Midsummer Night's Dream, in the woods of Klampenborg. If the Danish weather could be counted on, these plays would become an institu- tion to which tourists would flock in large numbers; but, though the Danish spring and summer are delightful when the weather is good, both in spring and summer some days do come when rain falls or the air turns damp and chill. CASTLE OF KRONBORG REDOLENT OF SHAKESPEARE’S ““HAMLET”’ One of the most interesting perform- ances was the playing of Hamlet on the ramparts and in the courtyard of the Castle of Kronborg. It gave one a thrill to see the background of the castle, un- changed since Shakespeare’s time, static against the action of the drama. It is impossible to believe that Shakespeare had not the very aspect of the ramparts of Elsinore visualized in his mind when he made the opening scene of Hamlet. Here the customer chooses from large tanks the An enterprising hotel keeper at Marian- lyst, formerly a royal residence, has erected a monument over what he calls “the grave of Hamlet.” Groups of school-girls may be seen occasionally dropping bouquets about the marble fig- ure, and the legend runs that Sarah Bern- hardt during her visit to Denmark actu- ally shed a tear at this tomb. It is cer- tain, however, that she drank a glass of champagne a la mode of Queen Gertrude to the manes of the Danish Prince! It is a good piece of advertising, but the enterprising proprietor has rather overdone things by exploiting a pool near by as the pond in which Ophelia, in her madness, drowned herself. In truth, the atmosphere around the Castle of Kronborg is very redolent of that one Prince of Denmark who is im- mortal. It makes no difference that he never lived at Kronborg, for his spirit haunts the place. There is the very lobby near the throne-room, and the long flights of stairs seem to be especially made for the flitting and wandering fig- ure of Ophelia! DENMARK AND THE DANES 141 Photograph from Frederick Simpich iil THE COPENHAGEN FISHMONGER DELIVERS HER GOODS FRESH AT YOUR KITCHEN DOOR The famous Danish sole is peddled on the streets in small tanks. Ann of Denmark, the Queen of James I, was, like all Danes, fond of panto- mimic acting; and some students assert that the great scene within the scene in Hamlet, where King Claudius calls out in terror, “Lights! More lights!” was cre- ated in order to please the taste of this Danish princess for pantomime. ‘There seems little doubt that Hamlet was writ- ten in her honor. One may find the Padua of Shakespeare not exactly the real Padua, and certainly the coast of Bohemia never existed; but the longer one lives in Denmark the surer one becomes that Shakespeare must have been familiar with the country and its people, for even genius could hardly be so marvelously intuitive. The Danish theater is part of the na- tional life and it is taken very seriously. It sometimes shocks Protestants from other countries to find that it is the cus- tom in many families to take the newly confirmed boys and girls to the royal opera to hear the typically Danish Elver- hot (The Elves’ Hill) or Holger Drach- mann’s Der War en Gang (There Was a Time) ; and these performances are, as a rule, given on Sunday afternoon. The Lutheran Church in Denmark is not at all antagonistic to the theater ; and most of the pastors themselves, as a rule very well educated and cultivated men, would be shocked 1f anybody assumed to censure the induction of the young Chris- tian soldier into the delights of the na- tional playhouse. It seems a pity that the pleasant fan- tasia, Der War en Gang, has never been played on our stage. ‘The first scene, at a Dresden china court, is full of charm, humor, and delicacy. The theme itself might not be counted as altogether dis- creet for American children, but Danish fathers and mothers see no impropriety whatever in it; and, as in Elverhoi, there is some really entrancing music. EVERY DANISH CHILD IS GIVEN A MUSICAL, EDUCATION The Danes have operas in their own language by Hartmann, Gade, and Heyse. They, with Lange-Muller, have created song music which gives melodies to every Danish home; and these melodies, set to poetic words by Danish lyric writers, are always in fashion. Jazz has been im- ported, of course. It is heard in the ho- 142 © E. M. Newman THE ENGLISH CHURCH IN COPENHAGEN This edifice, with its graceful Gothic spire, is situated in one of the most beautiful parks of the famous promenade called the “Long Line.” THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE tels and in the cafés; but it is not taken seriously, and so solidly musical is the education of every Danish child—for it is the very exceptional child in Denmark who is not educated—that a spirit of real discrimination is seldom absent. There is practically no illiteracy in Denmark, and to the establishment of the people’s high schools, under the influence of Bishop Grundtvig, the spread of cul- ture among the Danish people is largely due. Before 1844 the Danish system of edu- cation was formal, dully classical, and i1n- tended only for the well-to-do. Grundt- vig, a seer and a prophet, saw that the Danish people must not only be in- structed, but cultivated, and that their national self-esteem could only be pre- served if they knew the history of their own country and were made to be proud of it; that they must be insular and parochial if they were not taught to con- nect the history and progress of their own nation with the history and progress of other continental nations. He knew that no country could exist by bread alone; but he knew, too, that no country could exist unless it discovered the art of providing bread for itself, and of softening the arduous work of gain- ing a living by something that was spirit- ual and stimulating. In the first place, he believed that no man in Denmark was too poor or too lowly to grasp the glory of patriotism or to understand the difference between right and wrong. SCHOOLS FOR THE PEOPLE FOUNDED BY A SHOEMAKER’S SON The ideal of Grundtvig was different from the ideals of Luther; the God of Grundtvig was a shepherd rather than the keeper of a mighty fortress. Luther was not exactly a man of peace; he showed no desire to synthesize the traditions of the old church with the revolts of the new ; nor was he particularly anxious that the peasants should be educated. Grundt- vig broke away from the essentially Teu- tonic teachings of Luther in regard to the leveling education of the poor; but it is doubtful whether his policy of found- ing the high schools could have succeeded if it had not been for the force and char- acter of Kristen Kold. DENMARK AND THE DANES 143 Jae Photograph by Maurice P. Dunlap FOUR FAIR DIANAS OF DENMARK The Danish girl is fond of sport and often excels in riding, bicycling, swimming, tennis, and even boat-racing. A university “co-ed” has no trouble in keeping up with a crowd of fellow-students on a twenty-five-mile walk across country. Until her recent marriage to Prince René of Bourbon, Princess Margaret of Denmark, the only princess in Europe who has received a university degree, might be seen merrily bicycling or driving her little car on the roads between Copenhagen and her father’s country house of Bernstorff. Kristen Kold was a son of a shoe- maker, and of a not very prosperous shoemaker. He early learned to detest the traditional system of education, and the directors of this formal system made a cabal against him, and he was forced to give up his intellectual ambitions and to be content with the avocation of book- binding. His book-binding, however, was very thorough, and he respected, as most Danes do, the art of the handicraftsman. He became, by accident, acquainted with the writings of Bishop Grundtvig, and, thus inspired, he took courage and founded at Rgdding, in 1844, the first people’s high school. It was impossible that such a cultural school at that.time could expect state aid. In the first place, it was not to be merely an academic or bookish school. It was intended for all who could listen and understand. Its whole power depended on the personality of the teacher. Its appeal must be solely through the spoken word. It was a courageous experiment, for its success would depend entirely on the support of the people. In a short time a hundred men, old and young, ap- plied for admission. | But the women did not desire to be left out. Coeducation was looked on, not only in Denmark, but all through the Western World, as a horrible and dangerous inno- vation. The pupils of Kristen Kold’s first school were almost entirely farmers, and these farmers could not attend his lec- tures in the summer season, when they were needed in the work of the soil; but in the summer it was possible that some of the women might be free, and so he began by giving summer and _ spring courses for the women. From this beginning grew the great system of Danish high schools, which it is said were the models on which our Chautauquas were founded; and also the system of university extension in Eng- 144 The young people of Scandinavian countries have always mingled more freely than their brothers and sisters of southern Europe, and the famous Danish historian Saxo Grammaticus observed more than seven centuries ago, that “maidens admire in their wooers not so much good looks as deeds nobly done.” lish-speaking countries. But neither the Chautauquas nor the university extension courses have been as far-reaching in their effects as the Danish high schools. NO REQUIREMENTS EXCEPT THE DESIRE TO LEARN It is understood, ot course, that these schools are not, like our high schools, in- troductions to college or the finishing off of the education of those who do not in- tend to go to college. Unless some change has taken place in the system since I left Denmark, no re- Photograph a Maurice P. Danian VACATION TIME BY THE SEASHORE THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE quirement is necessary for the student except the desire to learn. There are no degrees given in these schools, no examinations, and no fixed standards of scholarship. The teacher in Den- mark has an acknowl- edged social position. It is understood that he must be freed as far as possible from material cares. At the University of Copenhagen, for example, houses and pensions are provided for the professors; and teachers in. the upper schools are so treated that they have a comfortable life, in a house and a garden, of which they have the tenure during their professional residence and a pension at a cer- tain age. PARENTS, THROUGH THE TEACHERS, CON- TROL THE SCHOOLS The duties of the government inspector of schools are very narrow in scope; he may report, but nei- ther he nor the gov- ernment can dictate to persons who con- sider themselves educational experts or to educated parents who know them- selves just what their children ought to learn. In Denmark, it is the parents, through the teachers, who control the school; but this does not in any way interfere with the high position which the teacher holds in a country where the education of a child to the utmost extent of his ability is looked on as an absolute necessity. No newspaper in Denmark would dare to assume that an examination is neces- sary in these high schools for adults. The DENMARK AND THE DANES high schools would be able to support them- selves, even if they did not have certain grants from the communes. It is understood that the teacher will say what he pleases in his lectures ; and, as the students of mature years choose these schools themselves, they would look on it as a degradation if an arbi- trary examination or standard were imposed on them. The foundation of all these schools is religion and nationality. At Ros- kilde it was interesting to note that the modifi- cation of Lutheranism made by Grundtvig showed itself by a slight tinge of the monastic tradition of study and asceticism, for in these boarding schools high thinking is accompanied by plain living. Simplic- ity 1s not only the rule because it is economical, but because simplicity of life is one of the virtues most inculcated in the system of Grundtvig and Kold. At Roskilde the school is set in a lovely plain, glowing with green in the spring and lightened by gleams of reflected light from placid waters. The room of each student bears on its door the name of one of the old monasteries, so famous in Danish history. HIGH-SCHOOL STUDENTS RANGE FROM I8 TO 30 YEARS OF AGE The students in the people’s high schools, men and women, are generally from eighteen to thirty years of age, and it is considered rather derogatory for a farmer’s son or daughter not to have had the advantages of at least some courses in one of these schools. As the interesting “Special Report of © EB. M. Newnan ) A GUARD BEFORE THE DOOR OF THE ROYAL PALACE The Danish King resided in the palaces at Amalienborg until recently, when he moved to the castle at Christiansborg, restored after a disastrous fire. just the Board of Education of Great Britain on Schools, Public and Private, in the North of Europe” says, “The primary aim of these schools is to inform, rather than to impart information.” That is, the teachers in the schools be- lieve it their duty to increase the desire for information in the minds of the students; to broaden, to stimulate them, to divert them from the every-day drudg- ery of farm life, and to induce them, through an appeal to religion and nation- ality, to feel that their work is noble—in a phrase, to give the agricultural popula- tion a lively interest in all things of good al 146 A COUNTRY RAILROAD CROSSING WHICH SUGGESTS THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ee ete ee aes ex. Photograph by Maurice P. Dunlap HOLLAND The Danish landscape not infrequently resembles that other land where windmills, canals, wooden shoes, and tulip fields are also distinctive features. repute, and to induce them to believe that a certain amount of happiness is within their grasp. The ordinary educator in England and the United States would look with horror on the absence of discipline in these schools of the people; but, as all the students choose the schools themselves and are actuated by the desire to do team- work in order that there may be no dis- tractions, outside discipline is as unneces- sary as it is in the drawing-room. DANISH STUDENTS HAVE LITTLE INTEREST IN INTERNATIONAL AFFAIRS The men show, as a rule, little interest in the relations of nations to one an- other — that is, the political relations. This and the neglect of the serious study of finance and economic questions of uni- versal importance are the only defects in the system of the high schools. Since the World War, however, it is probable that the close connection of political with economic life outside of Denmark may be realized. But the lack of attention given to international eco- nomics and the belief that the rights of the worker must imply certain privileges, because his side of a contract is more “human,” has much to do with the pres- ent financial crisis in Denmark. This is, however, being adjusted. As to internal politics, the interest of the students is shown by the fact that more than 30 per cent of the members of parliament had been pupils in the high schools. But it must be remembered that 1n Denmark politics is never looked on as something apart from the welfare of the people. ‘The Dane knows exactly what he wants, and he will endure no merely personally ambitious leader. If any politician attempts to interfere with a cooperative movement in the coun- try, to deflect the thoughts of the people from the processes by which their country has been made prosperous, he is doomed at once to political extinction. Team-work—you may call it codpera- tion 1f you will—is at the very heart of DENMARK AND THE DANES 147 © E. M. Newman A FARM-HOUSE IN SCHLESWIG, RECENTLY RESTORED TO DENMARK The scientific treatment of one of the worst soils for agricultural purposes in Europe, together with the codperation of the farmers, has enabled the Danes to supply many foreign tables with food. On the island of Amager, where the descendants of Dutch truck farmers, brought over to Denmark at the dawn of the Reformation, raise the best cabbage and cauliflower in Europe, the greenhouses are so large that the soil in them is cultivated in the winter by plows drawn by two horses. the success of the high schools. As the terms of the schools must be divided into two—November to March for the men, and the summer months for women and girls—each period is of five months’ duration. Some schools have only ten pupils; others four hundred. The attendance is made up of middle-class farmers and small holders of land, who may farm even as few as three or four acres. The schools are not, as a rule, coeduca- tional, though there are two or three ex- ceptions. ‘The school day is very long. The state or the commune has nothing to do with the appointment of the teach- ers. They are chosen by the principal of the school, who, knowing that the success of the school depends entirely on its effect upon the students, can indulge in no favoritism. The teacher must have the power of stimulating and the gift of imparting information effectively. Each hour is occupied, but it does not follow that every student is obliged to occupy himself in listening to lectures which do not interest him. He may, for instance, not find it necessary to consider the practical subjects. There are, for ex- ample, nearly fifty “folk-schools” which are purely cultural and do not offer courses in agriculture, cabinet-work, horti- culture, or masonry. In 1914 the state contributed more than $160,000 for the support of these schools. In the agricultural schools some prepa- ration must be offered for entrance. These are generally attended by farmers with from fifteen to fifty acres, which, under the Danish system of intensive cul- tivation and accurate rotation of crops, is considered rather ‘‘substantial.” The small holders, who have from three to ten acres of land—the Danish tun is more than equivalent to the English acre—and who add to their livelihood by laboring on other holdings, have schools of their pue oJIM Ssoutey AIIAI Jey} SOUTY} FL SINAUWAIANI WAVA GANOIHSVA- e1d0}0Y d ARMOIRES) Sums woz yd ‘(6F1 aded xo} 99s) MOUY pynoys [Sne} aie UILUOM JY} puv SpOYjoU Suruiey [ed » Gio HILIM GNV SHNWOALSOD IVNOILVN CIO Jojysnep eid Ulva] UI ISay} [OOYIS JO} Ystueq pajjeoxeun oy} Uy THL NI STUID WUVA GNV SYANWAVA HSINVA NYAaGoW 148 DENMARK AND THE DANES own, in which their practical problems are considered. PRACTICAL TRAINING FOR FARM WOMEN One of the most interesting of all the types of “folk-school” is that for girls and women who are the wives and daugh- ters or who expect to be the wives of small farmers. Only a visit» to one of these can make it understood how thor- oughly the work is done. Without pa- rade or ostentation, each girl learns the secret of leading the simple life cheer- fully. She is taught not to waste any- thing and, above all, to take a pride in not wasting anything. With the higher classes, it is under- stood that no girl should marry until she has been systematically taught how to keep a house and a garden practically. In society, if one would miss at the dinners or balls a young baroness or countess or the daughter of a rich mer- chant or banker and inquire where the young lady has been during the season, the answer often was, “She is betrothed ; she will be married in three months, and she has gone into the country to a prester- gaard, to learn housekeeping.” This meant that she had been sent into the quiet house of a country clergyman in order that no detail of domestic manage- ment should be alien to her. She must learn how to graft rose-bushes and apple- trees; she must know exactly how to make conserves without danger of spoil- ing the precious product of the soil, for the Danes are taught to respect the soil as the mother of life. In the schools for the daughters of the small land-owners a cheerful spirit of helpfulness is inculcated. Hurry and worry are entirely excluded; the art of making haste slowly is very much in favor. It is possible for an elderly woman who helps to support herself and her fam- ily by selling eggs to solve the problem of why her hens do not lay more freely by attending a course, say, of two weeks. Her expenses and board are paid by the commune, which wisely holds that the prosperity she acquires is a valuable asset to the community, and she goes back home with an answer to her question. And the answer has not been merely academic. She has seen model hen- houses and learned by observation. 149 When she returns home her husband, who may have had some trouble as to the yield of his three or four acres, takes her place. Thus, variety of life corrects the monotony of farming, and nothing in the management of the little place is left to chance. In Mr. Foght’s “The Danish Folk High Schools.) Dir P: Pe Claxton says in the preface: “In the thirty years from 1881 to 1912 the value of the exports of (Denmark’s) standard agricultural products — bacon, eggs, and butter—increased from $12,- 000,000 to $125,000,000. Waste and worn-out lands have been reclaimed and renewed. Cooperation in production and marketing has become more common than in any other country. Landlordism and farm tenancy have almost disap- peared. Rural social life has become in- telligent, organic, and attractive. A high type of idealism has been fostered among the masses of the people. A real democ- racy has been established. ‘This is the outgrowth of an educational system uni- versal, practical, and democratic.” STUDENT LIFE, IN A TYPICAL SCHOOL FOR IBIS, TPN OETA B The special “Report of the Board of Education of Great Britain” of one of the largest schools in Denmark, that of Valle- kilde (in northern Zealand), describes better than any words of mine what oc- curs in a typical school for the people. This British report and that other British report made by Mr. T. P. Gill and Sir Horace Plunkett are the best foundations one can have for the agricul- tural system of Denmark as seen by keen observers. Speaking of Vallekilde, the special report says: “The main object of this school is not to impart to our pupils a mass of useful information—that is only a_ secondary aim. ‘lhe principal aim is to impart to them a spiritual view of life, so that they may see there is some sense in their exist- ence and some connection in all that hap- pens, in little as in great events. They will thus be prepared to enter on the work of life with good hope and faith, the faith that there is a direction from above in all that happens. “The students are of all ages over eight- een years, most of them being twenty and twenty-five, and come from all parts ayeul s UBLUMAN *] {eAto1e a M SHOJILUNL ay} pure ‘9X9 JY} 0} Sulsva[d AOA apIshaUNOdD ot} ‘gyqed JO sproy osuy ody} ‘swuiey ydoy-]JoM 9Y} Jnq ‘yAP AdVOSGNVT HSINVd V wusd [[@ Ul ateU 9Y} FO AYyIOM [IY & ATadIVIS St IIDYT, metas Reng 150 ry. OY ill} ip Vy, I51 Moti -i Qu NX SS SWIG 4 4 ¥ SCHLI D ROOF IN aN 4 Vv ITH THATCHI HOME 4 4 4 A VILLAGI h butter and eggs. anis D) for | increasing appetite ‘These are some of the people who are keeping pace with the world’s 152 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Bhoroeraphl from Emil Opffer A STREET IN RIBE, CITY OF MANY MEMORIES Once this was the most important city in Jutland. Near by is the many-gabled old castle, Riberhus, once the favorite residence of Danish kings. A series of misfortunes eventually befell Ribe and the Reformation proved its death-blow. To-day, in inconspicuous quaintness, it stands guard over its memories. DENMARK AND THE DANES of the country and all classes of society, though the majority belong to the class of small freeholders and cottars, which is so numerous in our country. “Now I should like to give you the pic- ture of a single day here in the winter months, when we have from 190 to 200 young men under our care from the be- ginning of November to the end of March. ‘The bell rings them up at 7 o’clock in the morning. They then dress, make their beds, sweep out their rooms, wash, ane. ab 7:30 are teady for a cup of cotfee and a bun. “At a quarter to 8 the principal has morning prayers with his household; there also are to be found most of the students, though attendance is not com- pulsory. First a hymn is sung, then are repeated baptismal vows, the Apostles’ Creed, and the Lord’s Prayer. Another short hymn brings the service to a close. GEOGRAPHY IS EMPHASIZED “At 8 o'clock, four mornings in the week, I give a lecture on geography, and thereby I try to show the audience what relation there is between man and the earth, and how the people in the various countries have succeeded in reducing the soil to subjection. A song suited to the theme is sung both before and after the lectures. On the two other mornings our Free Kirk clergyman lectures on church history. “Breakfast comes at 9:15 and consists of a couple of sandwiches and a glass of home-brewed ale. “At half-past 9g the artisans go to a special department in a house a few min- utes’ walk from here, where they are taught what belongs to their various trades—carpenters in one room, brick- layers in another, painters in a third, and so on. Most of their time there is taken up in learning to execute working draw- ings. Likewise the fishermen go to their special department, where they are taught navigation and the natural history of fishes and other water animals, sea-plants, etc. “The farm lads stay here in the cen- tral building and are divided into four classes, held in various rooms, and for two hours practice writing and drawing. From 12 to 1 the principal gives a lecture on the history of Denmark, the political 153 history as well as the history of civiliza- tion, dwelling more especially on the lives of noted men and women of the last cen- tury, whose work we are continuing. “At half-past 1 comes dinner in the large room below. “At half-past 2 the artisans and the fishermen go to their own departments again until 6 o’clock. The farm-lads in the meantime are taught accounts and arithmetic for an hour in two classes. “At half-past 3 these last have gymnas- tics according to Ling’s system. “At 5 various teachers lecture to the farm lads only, on physics, on the geog- raphy of Denmark, on hygiene, and the history of the world. “At 6 supper is taken. iron 7280 tonensO, lectunes for tie whole school are given on the history of Danish literature by Mr. Hansen, and on various subjects by the other teachers, Mrs. Hansen twice a week reading aloud from the best of our poets, and I once a week showing lantern slides or glass photographs from all parts of the world and explaining them to the pupils. “From 8:30 to 9:30 the artisans and fishermen have their gymnastics, while the others have leisure time for the rest of the evening. But you will understand there is not much leisure time for any of them; what there is, is used for writing letters, reading, conversing, playing, or short walks. “At 10:30 the electric light is put out in the school-rooms.” TEACHERS WELL PROVIDED FOR No teacher in the rural parts of Den- mark boards around.” Married male teachers have seven or eight rooms placed at their disposal, always including a gar- den, very near to the school-house. The garden is indispensable. Each teacher manages to grow his own vegetables and fruit, and all Danes grow roses in the season. Unmarried women teachers are pro- vided with two or three rooms, and each teacher has a separate entrance to the . house in which she lives. When a teacher has served in the schools for twenty years he or she is en- titled to a pension, which until recently had the purchasing power of from $1,200 to $1,900 in Denmark. The amount of the pension depends on the length of ‘OLQI Ul SopaMg sy} Aq JO polite [BULs10 sy} Fo AdOD & ‘urejyUNO suNjJdaN IY} St punosrsI10F ay} U[ “ZOOI UT AT UeNsty) Aq poqe19 SBM Sulpying 94} JO ysour Inq ‘ZO ul J] ASA9poty Aq YINq ds1aM siamo} PuUNOI dy} JO OMY, ‘“Burseafd ApsepNoHAed o1e ‘uaseyusdo) JO YOU "poso[tF{ Avo oye] BV UL spuRys! [[eWIs sd1y} SuLAdnds0 ‘oid s1410}4styY sty} FO SAouUUIYD pue ‘syatin} ‘saitds ‘sajreuuid ‘sayqes oy, WILSVO DYOUS MIVAGAAA JaydQ [lue4y wos ydeisojoy, camila E se ones nm inh See Aer one ye ae Bio Shenton ce eB es a “t+ ?? ¢ eea89 154 JayNo apqnop v sey JOqaey doop SIP “s][TY ANOF Aq Jnoqe potuutoy St SIMSI[YIS UL UMO} SILT, GNWINIVN 3HL HLIM ‘NASTV dO GNV'ISI THL NO ‘OYODUHANOS ONILOAXNNOO HOdIUa NOOLNOd d’IO UBLUMON “TY TO ~~ iq S\N OK WN \ . N\ : : SS WN \ \ \ x : lay) N AXN ‘ . 4 j Y Y, Z yy Wy GG. GGv Yi, y \ AW SSS WS : N Wy 155 "S19MO} JY} JO IUO JO apis}no ay} UO ynq 4Avdiues ay} UO Ieadde JOU pIp JsOoYys ay} Jey} SE PUussa] ay, “aTOUIS|Y JO a[}sed Saievadsayeys St WILSVD DYOUNOUM :GHLVNILSVYIOUd GNV GHYZIHdOSOTIHd LAINVH AYHaHM Jaydg [muy wor ydessojoyd FE PROGR ES em ES oo ge : . wee ae ES GRRE BO se dial ari, 156 DENMARK AND THE DANES service, and sick or disabled teachers are looked after in a pecuniary way. Tuberculosis is one of the scourges of Denmark. ‘Teachers who have been af- flicted with the “white plague” during their service receive a pension of two- thirds of their salary. It is rather interesting at this moment, when a serious agitation in this country is beginning for the betterment of the teaching class, to note that the Danish Government provides for the meeting of a growing cost of living by a rule auto- matically increasing the salaries of the teachers to meet their expenses ade- quately. The tendency of legislation in Den- mark is to abrogate landlordism without destroying the legitimate rights of prop- erty, as the tendency of the cooperative movement was to destroy the inefficient and profiteering middleman. During the war the decrease of Danish emigration to the United States gave the government a pretext to provide more land available for farming. The new election law, which included suffrage for women, increased the number of voters and likewise the number of those who had the right to own land. Under the new law, no money was re- quired in order to acquire a piece of land ; good character, a certain certificate of energy, and the right to vote were all the qualities necessary. ‘The would-be land- owner was obliged to pay interest at 4 per cent on the fixed value of the land. It must be remembered that in Den- mark a farm is not valued by the number of acres it contains, but according to the stock, the implements, and the condition of the soil. The energy and knowledge of the previous owner are assets to him in dis- posing of his land. THE DANISH FARMER THE FREEST IN THE WORLD The evolution of the laborer on the soil can be easily traced in Denmark through _the growth of the democratic. spirit, which gradually destroyed serfdom, to. the present time, when the Danish farmer is perhaps the freest in the world. The constitution of 1848 liberated Den- mark from a condition of dependence largely brought about by the gradual transference of all power to the king or 157 to the aristocratic landowner, and the de- struction of the ideals of the Middle Ages in Denmark. It is a curious fact that in Denmark to- day, where the great landowner is not an absentee and has no tradition of ab- senteeism behind him, the common people have an almost bitter antagonism toward the aristocratic caste. And this is all the more strange, since the great landowners in Denmark till their soil and make it productive. The complaint that the English agri- culturist makes, that thousands of acres of land are mere unproductive pleasure grounds for “the dukes’’—not so long ago the objects of Lloyd George’s antagonism in England—would be groundless in Den- mark. THE LANDOWNING ARISTOCRACY MAY DISAPPEAR Just at this time it looks as if the Dan- ish landed estates would be cut up into comparatively small holdings. The aboli- tion of the majorats, which practically means the disappearance of the law of primogeniture and of the law of entail, would mean the disappearance of a land- owning aristocracy. There is an aristocracy in Denmark, an aristocracy of a very high class, as a rule, but it has lost its privileges. Its titles have even less value socially than they have in France, which is a republic, and, under the usage which makes all the sons and daughters of a count or a baron counts and countesses or barons and baronesses, titles soon lose their distinc- tion, and new titles of nobility are no longer given. The aristocracy, which for a long time controlled the Upper House, fought hard against the subdivision of the land, and its members were not sympathetic with the Danish system of credit banks, by which any man of good character, with a very small sum of ready money, might be able to own a farm. The would-be farmer must be over twenty-five and under fifty years of age _ and he must have worked in agriculture for four years. Two reputable citizens are required to sign a guarantee as to his standing in the community and his repu- tation for honesty. He then offers to pay one-tenth of the cost of the land and a certain sum in addition as a surety that 158 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE f * 4g ex ee A fe i Photograph from Gilbert Grosvenor A DIP IN THE BALTIC AT BORNHOLM The main mass of this island is granite, worn smooth by the great Scandinavian glaciers. Its rock-crystals have made it renowned. cotta and fish in the surrounding waters. The inhabitants manufacture porcelain and terra- Only recently has so-called promiscuous bathing (men and women on the same beach) become customary at the Danish seaside resorts. his farming may not be an utter failure. These conditions being fulfilled, nine- tenths of the cost of the farm, which in- cludes live stock, etc., is furnished by the state. The Mortgage Bank of Denmark is be- hind him and the conditions do not im- pose on him too great a burden. In 1850 the total number of small farms was 180,090. In 1905 there were over 289,- 000. During that period the number of men who rented farms declined from 42.5 per Cent to 7 Ol pem cence Mr. Harald Faber, in his report, tells us that of the total population engaged in agriculture in IQII, 535,758 were em- ployers and their dependents and 399,- 534 were employees or their dependents. It is argued against this system that many men buy small farms on credit, make improvements beyond their means, and go too much in debt. There are cases DENMARK AND THE DANES 159 BHOtoataph fromekril Opfter AN OLD CHATEAU AT NYBORG, ON THE ISLAND OF FUNEN Odense, the capital of the island, was the home of Hans Christian Andersen, and the house in which he was born is now filled with memorials of this famous creator of fairy lands and people. of this lack of prudence, it is true; but, as a rule, the system seems to have worked well, and if it continues to do as well, the majority of the agricultural Danes— the vast majority—will soon be masters of their own soil. IN DENMARK NEARLY EVERY MAN WORKS HIS OWN FARM The habit of farming land on shares, which we find in some of the Southern States, where an enterprising colored man often becomes the arbiter of the white owner’s destiny, does not obtain in Den- mark. Every man works his own farm. In the summer months, however, over 20,000 Galicians and other immigrants come into Denmark to dig the beet root and to do other jobs which the Danish farmer prefers not to do. The large- estate owners are obliged every year to provide facilities for these alien laborers, who go home in the autumn quite content with the result of their work. Aq d1nzlas S}t dduISs vIssnig UBLUMAN “JV “TO ‘POgI UL At}UNOD yey} Aq pa[ni useq Suraey Jojje YAeUUICq O} PoUANjot SEM HOF 9H] 9Soy} JO Puvysuoy SIMSA THOS NI SYALSIS WAHL GNV _SYXdHLOW WILLT,, 6 94} Soy[lesiaA JO Ajyeary oy} 160 DENMARK AND THE DANES Denmark is not an industrial country in the sense that it is a country of manu- facture. The scientific treatment of one of the worst soils for agricultural pur- poses in Europe, joined with the equally scientific system of cooperation, enabled it to monopolize the export of buiitter, bacon, and eggs into England and Ger- many. Before the war the Danes sup- plied the breakfast table of the British, and the export of milk and cream, and even of beef and hogs, into Germany taxed their capacity. DANISH BUTTER HAS A WORLD-WIDE REPUTATION Danish butter has the deserved reputa- tion of being the best in the world. It is standardized, and the government itself would be held responsible for any falling off in the guaranteed quality of this product. It is not inexpensive, most of it is exported, and it seems rather para- doxical that in this country of butter the majority of the people eat a very high- grade margarine. | Every Danish egg is dated; but al- though the Danish fowls are prolific and the eggs are carefully looked after, yet the Danish egg does not enjoy the de- servedly great reputation of the butter and the bacon. In spite of the old-age pension, of the grants to widows, of the unemployment insurance, of the upkeeping of admirable hospitals for the poor, the industrial classes in Copenhagen indulge frequentl in strikes. Of late the American-Scandinavian line has been put at a great disadvantage because of the recurrence of these strikes. One result of them was much deplored in Denmark. During the shortage of butter in, the United States, cargoes to supply this shortage were sent to America; but the strikers delayed their transit, and the butter, when it arrived here, was not equal in quality to the standard prescribed in Denmark. Complaints were made from this side, and a committee of the great Danish butter exporters in Denmark came over here to make their explanations and to show our people what Danish butter at its best really is. Employers of labor in Denmark are not without fixed responsibility. For ex- ample, when I was Minister Plenipoten- 16] tiary at Copenhagen I followed a rule obligatory on everybody except diplo- matists: I kept a bed in a hospital for my people, contributed to their insurance, and altogether followed the laws which prevent an employer from dropping a servant penniless whenever the caprice seizes him. In the country an employer must give his servants a notice of six months; in the city, a month 1s sufficient. I recall the fact that one of my foot- men, having been sent to a hospital for two weeks, complained that “they gave him everything except wine, and that he was expected to pay for!” One of the best-known captains of in- dustry in Denmark is Admiral de Riche- lieu. He was instrumental in encourag- ing the introduction of the Diesel motor, and some of the earliest and most effec- tive experiments in the application of the Diesel motor to navigation were made in Denmark by the East Asiatic Company, of which he is a director. PATRIARCHAL TRADITIONS MAINTAINED IN COUNTRY HOMES The cultivated Dane has very esthetic tastes, and it seems a pity that the life of the country houses of the Danish aris- tocracy should disappear when their lands are divided. A typical Danish castle is that of the Count and Countess Raben- Levitzau. In country houses like theirs the old Danish traditions—rather patri- archal—are still kept up. At Christmas, for example, when the Christmas tree is lighted on the sacred eve, the master and mistress of the house join hands with the servants and sing the old Danish hymns around the blazing pine or iin. Nobody that has not lived in Denmark and known the charm of its family life can appreciate what the term /yggelig means. It is something even better than the German word gemuthlich or the Eng- lish word “cozy.” At present, owing to the proximity of a struggling Germany, to the unrest in Russia, to the financial difficulties in Eng- land, and its own necessity for readjust- ment, Denmark is not as prosperous as usual. At the same time, it has great resili- ency. Wealth is rather equally distrib- uted; the great fortunes gained during pue a[HAoF ysOll 94} JO OUO UPLUIMO NT “IV “AT a) ‘UIPIMG UL SJOLIJSIP IATJORIRVe ‘URL[IG ONe’T PUNOIV UOILSo1 YIALY pue ‘puesya’y ‘es10pY dy} JO soumnjsod onbsainjord oy} Surseam die . NHOVHNYdOD NI SYOLISIA HSIGAMS JO LALYVAO V sjuesvad asayy 162 DENMARK AND THE DANES the war by a small circle of profiteers have disappeared. ‘The Danes took meas- ures early to prevent the dumping of cheap German goods into their country, and, at least, they have gained one ad- vantage from the war—an advantage not so great as it ought to have been, how- ever—the return of a part of Schleswig, stolen by Prussia in 1864, to the mother country. THE UNITED STATES CAN LEARN MUCH FROM DENMARK’S SOCIAL REFORMS Denmark is intensely interesting to the student of social reforms, because it has put most of them in practice. Even the most liberal of its Liberals is constructive. There is no anarchy in Denmark and little chance for the progress—much less than in Sweden—of the Bolsheviki. The United States might learn much from the example of this little country as to the care of that Danish machine for giving milk—the cow. As to the abroga- tion of those grafters who deprive the farmer and the ultimate consumer of their just rights, we have many lessons to learn. But some of the enthusiastic advocates for our imitating the Danish methods go too far. A country formed of forty- eight different States, each with its own peculiar problems, cannot be guided in the same way as a small country which is almost purely agricultural and where the industries concern themselves largely with export facilities. Denmark, it must be remembered, ex- ists practically for the production of cer- tain necessaries of life, and therefore all its laws are made for the protection of the farmer, but not for the monopoliza- tion by the farmer of rights that belong to other people. The farmer in Denmark is never a speculator. It is impossible that a “cor- ner” should be made in any of his pro- ductions. These truths might well be considered by our farmers themselves in rural communities and not left to the vagaries of professional legislators. In the art of painting and sculpture, in literature, in science, Denmark has no mean place. It is true that all her sculp- tors have not the reputation of the fa- mous Thorvaldsen. ‘There, for instance, are Jericheau, Bonnesen, Kai Nielsen, 163 and Einar Jonsson. Cellini has no rivals in Denmark; but A. Michelsen, the court goldsmith, has executed some very ex- quisite gold and silver vessels and orna- ments designed by the disciples of Cellini. A Danish lady, as a rule, does not care to wear a piece of jewelry unless it is especially made for her. In our country, at a great ball or a banquet, one will see a score or two of “sunbursts,”’ or brace- lets, or pendants almost all alike. No matter how simple the buckle, or the bracelet, or the necklace of a cultured Danish woman may be, she will not have it resemble the ornaments worn by an- other person. This spirit assists very greatly in the production of artistic handicraft. NOTABLE FIGURES IN THE WORLD OF LITERATURE Of all the Danish authors, Georg Brandes has the greatest international reputation. Next to him comes Harald H¢ffding. Georg Brandes has a remark- ably synthetic mind. He is the first and most important of Danish internationalists in the literary sense; but his hedonistic philosophy has had a deplorable effect on the Danish intellect, an effect which has been combated by the constructive phi- losophy of Harald H¢ffding. Johannes Jorgensen is, as to form, the most exquisite poet in Denmark, and his Clock of Roland, a cry of despair and triumph for Belgium, is one of the most justly celebrated of all the books inspired by the late war. Johannes V. Jensen is a novelist who deserves his great literary reputation. Pantoppidan and Martin Nexg have a large following. Of the painters, Kroyer is the most lucid, the most luminous, and probably the one who will be in the future better known and long remembered. Laurits Tuxen is best known in England as a modern historical painter. Julius Povlsen deserves a high place; and Zahrtmann, whose coloring is strangely misty and individual, deserves to be well known in our country. Zahrtmann’s pictures flame with color, seen through a mauve haze. The most charming painters of delicate interiors are Hammershoi and Helso; Skovgaard is an intensely religious painter, with much of the quality of Fra 164 Angelico in his work, and next to Joachim Skovgaard, in this genre, is his brother Niels. ‘The newest school of artists is always in advance of last year’s eccentrici- Hes at tties,, to: co one better’ than Paris! One of the most beautiful buildings in Europe is the new Town Hall of Copen- hagen, created by Martin Nyrop. It isa worthy companion of that admirable edifice, the Bourse, which dates from the reign of Christian IV (see page 121). DANISH ART IS NEVER COMMERCIALIZED The saving quality in Danish art is that not even its minor productions are commercialized. The royal Copenhagen pottery, which would be popular in the United States if our absurd tariff did not make its cost almost prohibitive, is an example of this. It developed from the imitation of the Dresden china by the makers of porcelain in Denmark, under the patronage of Queen Juliana Maria in the eighteenth century. It is unique, and as beautiful and as true to nature as it is unique. The best thing that I, as an amateur, can say of Danish art, is that it is indi- vidual, national, and, like Danish human- ism and science, is never followed simply with a view of gaining money. If I seem too enthusiastic as to the spirit and the material of this little coun- try, it is because I have lived there; | am not blind to its defects. I regret the de- cline of the sturdy religious spirit of the older days and of an increase in the laxity of sex relations, which results from the decay of Christianity and the growing THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE tendency, not confined to Denmark, of the new paganism. However, if the Danes love Denmark, it is because their country and its institu- tions are worthy of love. PRESENT TREND OF THE GOVERNMENT IS TOWARD PATERNALISM It is only fair to add that the burden of taxation on the well-to-do in Denmark is almost intolerable at present. The legislation in favor of the laboring man has in some instances resulted, as pater- nalism in government generally results, in making him feel that the state owes him a living, whether he works or not. The late financial crisis in Denmark was made more alarming by the lockout of the employers in February. Strikes followed, and during the winter over a hundred thousand men were thrown out of employment. The farmers suffered, not only from the usual coldness of the season—ice stopped navigation at Copen- hagen and Esbjerg—but from the de- termination of the dock laborers at the seaports to impede exports until their demands were complied with. In conse- quence the banks have suffered. The farmers took the matter in hand and did the work of shipping their own exports. Economic readjustments have begun. The lesson taught by the vagaries of the radical government will have the effect of teaching the Danish folk that consid- eration must not be shown for the work- ingman only. If capital is taxed above its earning capacity for his apparent benefit, it ceases, to his detriment, to function normally. But the Danes are quick at learning by experiments. Notice of change of address of your GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE should be received in the office of the National Geographic Society by the first of the month to affect the following month’s issue. For instance, if you desire the address changed for your October number, the Society should be notified of your new address not later than September first. TEE eR IGH Dy cA hE TE MiBER-LINE By JoHN Otiver LA Gorcer AutHOR oF “WARFARE ON Our EastERN Coast,” “A Bartritt Grounp oF Nature,” ‘“ROoUMANIA AND I's Rusicon,” “DEvVIL-FISHING IN THE GULF STREAM,” IN THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Titan oF AMERICA,” ETC., I MONG all the stirring struggles A that the forces of Nature stage in their wars over disputed terri- tory and their strivings for supremacy, there is none more intense or unrelenting than that at the timber-line, where the ad- vance guard of the Legions of the Forest engages 1n mortal combat the entrenched troops of King Frost. One would have to wander far afield indeed to witness more brilliant tactics or to meet with such masterful strategy as the tree armies employ. A far-flung line is this forest frontier, and it has more separate fields of con- flict than there were when the world’s effort to break Central Europe’s strangle- hold upon civilization was at its height. There are three principal battle areas where the forces of King Frost are en- trenched against the trees—the Arctic citadel, the Western America line, and the Himalaya-Alps front. Isolated cam- paigns rage on lone peaks and on short and sequestered mountain ranges. On the Arctieyiront the contending forces are drawn up in battle array at sea-level. In the Western America theater, the war zone climbs higher and higher, until, at the Equator, the pitiless strife is waged in the rarefied atmosphere of twelve thou- sand feet or more. ‘Then it sweeps down again until it reaches sea-level at the Strait of Magellan end of the Andes. In the hostile area that stretches along the Himalayas and the Alps from west- ern China to eastern France, there are numerous quiet sectors, but a strategically continuous front. TREE SOLDIERS ENDURE THE GRIND OF AN UNCEASING CAMPAIGN Hardy as trained-to-the-minute men are the tree soldiers that can stand the awful grind of the unceasing campaign. ‘The training camps are scattered all over the salubrious country of the back areas, and only picked troops of tested courage ever reach the firing-line. “PENNSYLVANIA, THE INDUSTRIAL Tropical trees are too soft of fiber for aught but home-guard duty and last-ditch- reserve support. After a few hundred miles poleward or twice as many feet sky- ward they gradually drop out, and hardier and better trained substitutes fill their places, until, at last, the troops that started are, without exception, left be- hind, and fresh ones everywhere reform the serried ranks. Where the last palm that typifies the tropical soldiery drops out, a third type begins to fall in line, and by the time the broad-leaved troopers begin to grow jaded, the keen, needle-leaved legions from the pine woods are ready to fill the place of the stragglers, in order that the ranks may be kept full. 629 DIVISIONS CALLED TO THE COLORS How heart-breaking and stamina-test- ing the long march proves to be 1s strik- ingly shown by the record of the 629 divisions that have been called to the colors between sea-level on the Florida coast and timber-line in the Colorado mountains—including the palm and the palmetto divisions, the oak and the hick- ory, the maple and the birch, and other crack outfits. Gradually the divisions are reduced, by desertions and straggling, to brigades, regiments, battalions, companies, and squads, and at length formations disap- pear ; so that when, finally, the battle field itself 1s reached, all but a beggarly score are missing, and even these survivors of hardy divisions, the regulars of the tree armies, have been decimated. And yet, when the battle front is reached, the Titanic struggle is still to open. No operations in mass formation are possible there. The pine divisions have advanced in great, dark columns, now seeking protection from the bombing expeditions of the air service, now ac- cepting the support of the shock troops of the birch divisions, and again bearing the brunt of the enemy’s artillery fire of hail and sleet. — 165 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE CAUGHT ON THE WIRE King Frost marshals his forces in Glacier National Park and casts his pall of snow over the scouts sent forward to dig in. The front-line trenches are thinly held by those who make up in courage and bulldog tenacity of purpose what they may lack in numbers. Let us brave the dangers of the firing line to get a look along these trenches. As one’s eyes sweep the situation on any narrow sector, the tragedy of the struggle stands out in bold relief. Herea small, knotty and gnarled tree occupies an unprotected listening post; there a small squad holds a shell crater where it would seem that no living thing could exist. NO SUCH THING AS RETREAT However furious the conflict, there is no such thing as retreat. Every tree soldier stands rooted to the terrain it has taken, dying if need be, but never falling back. The thousands of mangled and maimed who fight on so long as a single spark of life remains, show what courage the tree troops possess. The barrage of the wind may pitilessly beat upon them, the machine-gun fire of the sand blast may transform them into animated totem poles, but not until the hand of death itself is laid upon them will the trees surrender. Everywhere the whitened corpses of the unburied dead are to be seen, and their bones, de- nied the privilege of sepulture, will re- main until the desiccating power of the powder-dry atmosphere causes them to crumble—mute witnesses of tragic brav- ery. Watch the living as they fight, some with their stormward sides as bare of branches as a hewn log, and on their lee- ward sides only enough limbs to convert them into weather vanes; others with their very heads bowed to the ground. Even the whitebark pine, representative of that great host of sky-seeking trees which rear their proud heads above the remainder of the forest, on the principle that they must aspire or die,.creeps along the ground, like moss, with never a hint THE FIGHT AT THE TIMBER-LINE 167 Photograph by S. H. Willard THE SKIRMISH LINE NEAR INDIO, CALIFORNIA, WHERE THE BATTLE IS WAGED AGAINST DROUGHT RATHER THAN WIND AND SNOW No spring supplies these lonely palms of the desert with water. of the proud carriage and high head that characterized it when on dress parade in the regions behind the war zone. As one stands at timber-line, there comes to mind that splendid eulogy of those “children of the rock, gray moss, dark shrub, the meager chamois flock,” whose natures have been tempered and trained until they are able to stand “‘ex- emplars of creation’s plan that all shall fight for life, and those shall live who 3) can. A TINY VETERAN OF 255 YEARS OF BATTLE The hardships endured by the tree sol- diers can be appreciated only by those who have observed the battle at close range. John Muir tells of finding a pine warrior whose trunk was only four inches in diameter and whose topmost. tassel feachicd) a Dare faree “tect irom | tie ground; yet when he counted the rings that constituted its service stripes, he found it to be a veteran of 255 years of duty on the firing line. It is fascinating to study the strategy and tactics of the forces of King Frost and to examine their methods of warfare. They have long since discovered that the masks the trees have adopted are effec- tive against the gas of sheer coldness, the most frigid known spots on the earth's surface being held by trees. But if the trees can stand all attacks of cold, they suffer excessive casualties at the hands of the winds. The timber-line is no shortest-distance- between-two-points affair. The fortunes of the battle and the terrain both tend to make it as irregular and as sinuous as was ever the battle line that stretched from Switzerland to the sea during the World War. The power of the trees to adapt them- selves to their environment is amazing. In the tropics and the temperate zones, vegetation is killed by freezing, as any one walking through a vegetable garden after Jack Frost has made a raid on a cold au- tumn night can tell from the blackened leaves. But in timber-line districts it is not the sudden frost that injures vegeta- 168 tion. Plant life there can stand freezing without difficulty. It is rather the thaw- ing process that hurts in such regions. The wonderful adaptability of plant life to its environment is to be seen on the tundra of Russian Lapland. ‘There the thermometer crosses the freezing point several times a day, but the leaves on the stunted growth that occurs in spots do not seem to suffer. So, too, in the Alps some species of gentian and ranunculus, even when in full blossom, spend their nights frozen stiff and their days as bright and chipper as if they had never known a chill moment. These flowers have adjusted themselves as thoroughly to the cold at timber-line as the cactus has to the heat in the trop- icaledesents yeandtoestrees are led, by chese “‘little children” of the timber-line in adjusting themselves to the inhospi- tality of their environment. The character of the warfare on the sea-level polar timber-line differs from that on tropical mountain heights. On the former there is a homogeneity of forces not encountered in the latter. Everywhere on the polar timber-line the trees without exception become stunted and dwarfed, degenerating into gnarled growths that little resemble their stately brethren of milder regions. Neither the broad-leaved nor the needle-leaved spe- cies, as a rule, attains a height of more than three feet. THE MARCH OF THE TREE HOSTS UP A MOUNTAIN SIDE The mountain timber-line, however, has highest interest for most people, since it is in a theater of war accessible to any hardy mountain-climber, who, as a military observer, may wish to watch the great battle. A hundred romances are concentrated in the story of the march of the trees up the mountain side toward the battle front. Far down on the plain out of which rises a tropical mountain like Orizaba, in Mex- ico, there is luxuriant vegetation. If the rainfall is plentiful, it grows abundant on the lower slopes. Palms and bananas are the characteristic trees of the first two thousand feet. However, when that elevation is reached these have largely given place to THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE the tree-ferns and figs, which, with allied species, now take up the climb, and “carry on” until they come to the 4,000- foot level. Here they, in turn, begin to drop out, their places being filled by laurels, myrtles, and related species. These drive on another 2,000 feet, giv- ing way, in their turn, to the broad-leaved evergreens, which take up the climb at about 6,000 feet and march on until they reach 8,ooo feet. Gradually they fall by the wayside and their ranks are filled by the summer-green broad-leaved tree. At 10,000 feet the conifers fill up the gaps and finally arrive at the trenches. In many mountains there are varia- tions in the vertical distances to which the different trees climb, and in some cases one or another of the list of reser- vists is almost entirely missing. It is a singular fact that the various types of trees are able to climb higher on moun- tain ranges than on isolated peaks, and that, as a rule, the timber-line is higher on long ranges than on short ones, as if confidence and courage were imparted by a dense formation of fellow-fighters. THE WAR CORRESPONDENTS OF THE TIMBER-LINE BATTLE FRONT The great contest at timber-line, as in human warfare, has called forth a large number of war correspondents. One of the ablest of these was John Muir, whose love of Nature is an inspiration for every one who reads his books. And the best- loved part of Nature to him was that wonderful country, the Sierra region of the Pacific Coast. Like the true war observer, he wrote with equal charm of the larger strategy of a big drive and of the brave deeds of a single warrior. For him the whitebark pine had a particular interest, not less from the methods of its fighting than for the unwonted heights to which it bravely climbs. In the Yosemite mountain forests he found it always in the front-line trenches. Where he first encountered it on the march up the mountain it was an upstand- ing tree trooper, some forty feet high; but as he followed its footsteps up to the regions where, on the rocky, wind-swept slopes, the snow lay deep and heavy for half the year, it grew shaggy and squat, THE FIGHT AT THE TIMBER-LINE 169 ROY Kw Photograph from F. L. MacFarland MOUNT EVANS, COLORADO, FROM WINDOW LEDGE The proposed Mount Evans drive will connect the Denver Mountain Park System with this, one of the highest peaks in the United States, elevation 14,259 feet. The city of Denver has already built 10 miles of this drive to Window Ledge, on Squaw Mountain. The United States Forest Service has built an additional 10 miles to Echo Lake. Most of the remaining 20 miles of the drive will be above timber-line, reaching an elevation of 12,740 feet at Summit Lake, on Mount Evans. 170 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ; Fb os hia ¥ RAO ae x & oe ee Photograph by Vittorio Sella THE “NO MAN’S LAND” OF THE TIMBER-LINE WARFARE On the roof of the world, among the eternal snows of the Himalayas, even the most intrepid tree combatant dare not stand against the heavy artillery of avalanche and the ceaseless machine-gun fire of ice-storm. THE FIGHT AT THE TIMBER-LINE 7d Photograph by Vittorio Sella THE BATTLE LINE NEAR THE CREST OF THE CAUCASUS Remorselessly and irresistibly, the glaciers crush through the mountain passes, giving the trees little chance for a foothold, but even here, on the very shores of the ice rivers, the chasseurs of the forest stand their ground. ‘SQYIUII] DUT]-}UOIJ DY} YORI IDA [JIM Moy JABMyR}S B ATUO pue ‘poo AuIaUa Aq PaTpPHT aq []IM $901} sy} ‘IaAIMOY ‘poule}e SI SUT]-MOUS 94} 919 BUO'T NOILVNYOA SSVW NI SLHOIDH SNSVONVO AHL ONIWYOLS BIIS 01103314 Aq ydesZo0j0yg >? . Sewer, fo wg I ret REIS *so1j5¥} ueIqe,y Aq UOM 4IDAD SEM 9]}}eq SUTT-1OqQuUIT} OU INT ‘spySoy ssosjsoF OY} JO syPEM poqqi4i-yoor oy} 91OFoq UMOP IS SdoOo01} jsotOF JUJOdUIT DY} ‘VUdI110} UTeJUNOL SBurmoy-iIMs dy} .ssosd 07 d[qeua SVAWIVWIH HHL NI LVOW IWAMOTAT JO ALUVd ONITVOS V -NIVLEO TINLS AYVAYVM HO SGOHLAW TIVATIGHN AYHHM WVAULS V AIT GHULIVH SHAAYL LOOMdV ¢ RIS O10} A AQ Ydessojoyg yyy” go AS \\S WS 173 ynq ‘ doys Yeig-ooyg if Pleu ggi ased A[uty} a4 “ies ‘}X9} 99S) ,Sio9quinu ul yo B SoyIUIt} OUT[-JUOIF YT, Aq ydeisojoyg ey Ae ‘Joo +B] Su? ‘ec Aoy} yeymM osod ind jo Ajioeus} Sopy[ng pue sseinod ur dn oyew way} ueW OM 9sSOy} } OOS‘IT FO UONPAVZ[a Ue je ‘OpetO[OD ‘Apleg JUNO], FO dUT]-1oOqUIT] oY} UO pue}s JeUuYy e SuIyeyy IGNAYAAS WIAUN LI ‘SHId GUVND IO AHL, 174 ae S d10y} ‘zypAoysMy ye Log AMUIUTMApP SUOSTOdeN IY! ‘IMG | StOTpJOS SoIOF OY} JSurVse ySOIF FO SoI10F Suidojaaua 1194} YOUN] syUIUI[I oY} A[SSopJUI[OyY ‘ywaro1 BV Jeog 0} MOY SMOUY Jey} Woy} Suowe surjdes B jou MONS AUNV Lvs tO SMOVSSOO THI JO UNVNWOO SUMVL SVIVOL NAIHM SHAUL AML wor LSHOWnI SHOVA UVM LNA ‘OMELUVvVAO WALNIM OLNI OD AVW SHINUAV NVNOH 2 IIU[[OC ‘Vv fat | Wo.l} ydeisoyoy SS 175 Muavd IVN OILVN YAINIVA L JIT pue sing Aq ydesZ0j04g Fv mr, N Now ‘IuVvd a S IdVuVvd YVAN ‘ LNIOd WAMON SMOId LV dvOd LNANWNUYAAOD AHL: ANI’ FILLVA WAAWIL AHL NO Ne ~ Sad gore oP 176 0} YU: Saat ®& ouTjugTe A pue weujyng Aq ydeisojoyg ‘syysroy oy} OF dn Yoror yey} SMOTTOY OY} MOTPOF AyT[eEnsn our[-toquity oq} ; }UNOPY JO PUIUINS oY} WOLF BOYRT 9ye’]T pue ‘Avg pyesow’y “axe’T apeoser JO MOIA V7 ee ALU SOOT} 9YF YOIYM AQ spvOt oY T,, “BIUAOFITLS ‘ovT[e] 4 UVM SSHTMOOUL UAL AOVM SLNAWWTA GNV | LL UHL NOWAHM AIA WILLVE FHL VOI ONILLAS AHL SV NIVINOQOW GNV &XMV’I JO VNVUONVd SSWIHOLVIN V SCIOANOD AAOLVN eh * ‘TURN 177 Peete: * ‘AEMB SOU OF ‘sUIepY JUNOT FO }IWUINS 9Yy} UES SI I[ppes 9Y} JIAO Wavd ‘IVNOILV soureg “TT “vy Aq ydesz0j0yg Pe Ene i *% Q Loe N UWHINIVY LNOOW NI YNHOS ONINYAA NV : NOILVWaOL NadO NI DNIONVACY JOS! M H ry aw \ U0Sd1Q ‘dyxe’T J9}e1IZd JO sodoyjs oy} UO soa1 7, “QOULISIP JY} UT SpNOTS dy} VAOGe UBS SI JOOS JUNOT FO PUIUUINS oT, WILNIM JO MOVLLVY HHL DNIGNVLSH LIM &q ydeisojoyg \) x 179 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Vittorio Sella AN ADVANCE DETACHMENT OF TREES RECONNOITERS THE IMPREGNABLE SUMMIT OF SNOW-CLAD MOUNT SPEKE, IN THE RUWENZORI RANGE, EQUATORIAL AFRICA Although the Ruwenzori Mountains lie almost on the Equator, their highest peaks rise above the limits of perpetual snow, and, strive as they may, the arboreal armies are turned back; for here, indeed, ‘They shall not pass!” (See also page 184.) THE FIGHT AT THE TIMBER-LINE 181 eee 3 “Photograph by Wiswall Bros. CLIMBING TO AN EAGLES THRONE ON FLATTOP MOUNTAIN, OVERHANGING THE GREEN WATERS OF DREAM LAKE It is around these rugged summits that the great black eagles of the Rocky Mountain National Park can be found. Two bold climbers are seen endeavoring by means of ropes to scale the cliffs and arrive at one of these eagle aeries. ‘YSIINOY S$9d1} 9s9y} YOIYM Ul baie ay} JUSLUNUOW [euONeU B SE APIS JaS O} JOOF UO SI JUIWIDAOW YW *S9}¥}G Po}UL) PY} Ur soo1} Wed [eUTsIIOqe ATUO dy} MOIS ‘eIUIOZITeD OOV SHIVOLINAO SYVACANOT WAHL ‘AJUNOD opissza AY uofkurd) wyeg uy Ad VINYOATIVO NI NOM NIvuadal AHL GIOH VOIMANV JO SHYUL WIvd ‘IVNIOINOSV AHL AO SUINVGNAOSAG NOS “MIT “AMIS AMI’T UIYIAO’T “dD “YY wo1y ydesrs0j0yg 182 183 re Photograph by Vittorio Sella A ROYAL BATTLE GROUND OF CENTURIES ht and left. , rig ird « From this Equatorial Fast African valley floor the trees surge upw 184 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE > AS ce Photograph by Vittorio Sella THE BATTLE OF THE TREES ON THE RUWENZORI RANGE HAS BEEN OBSERVED BY SOME OF THE MOST FAMOUS FIGURES IN THE HISTORY OF AFRICAN EXPLORATION Thought by many geographers to be the “Mountains of the Moon” to which Ptolemy and other ancient writers refer, numerous peaks in these mountains have been ascended by Henry M. Stanley, Sir Harry Johnston, and the Duke of the Abruzzi (see also page 180). tH FIGHT AT THE TIMBER-LINE crowding close to its fellows and forming with them a crinkled mass so dense and flat that one could easily walk on their bowed heads. Yet, in spite of its limb-to-limb strug- gles with the gales and the snows, it chngs so earnestly to life that when the short springtime finally comes to its aid, it puts on a new uniform of fresh leaves and bedecks itself in the emblems of courage and victory, gay red and purple flowers, which challenge afresh the lash- ing winds and the inhospitable soil. Not only does the whitebark pine fight well, but it fights long. Its highest tassel may come only to a man’s waist-line. Standing by it and among its fellows, one might well think that of a sudden he had become a tree in stature, and the trees had been transformed into men in height. : One splendid veteran of scores of hard- fought campaigns was only three feet high. Yet when War Historian Muir interrogated it, the proud reply came that it had been holding its outpost for 426 years. Although its trunk was only six inches in diameter and its height that of a yardstick, it had been campaigning eighteen years when Columbus discovered America. NATURE'S TRAINING CAMPS AND REST DEPOTS As Muir climbed to the battle area he gave detailed accounts of the training camps and rest depots he passed en route: “At an elevation of 6,000 feet above the sea, the silver firs are 200 feet high, with branches whorled around the colos- sal shafts in regular order, and every branch beautifully primate like a fern frond. The Douglas spruce, the yellow- and the sugar-pines here reach their finest development of beauty and grandeur. The majestic Sequoia is here, too, the king of conifers, the noblest of all the noble race. These colossal trees are as wonderful in fineness of beauty and pro- portion as in stature—an assemblage of conifers surpassing any other that has ever yet been discovered in the forests of the world.” | Another excellent war correspondent of the timber-line struggle is Clarence King, from whose book, “Mountaineer- ing in the Sierra Nevada,” the author has 185 j Yj ZB Yj, Ys j YZ Wb yp Vig y (©) Underwood and Wnderced A GRENADIER WHO HAS _ INTREPIDLY WITHSTOOD THE ASSAULTS OF THE ELEMENTS CANNOT RESIST THE BROAD-AX OF MAN 186 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE “THE BRAVEST OF THE BRAVE” Staunch even in death, this outpost stands as a monument to its own defeat, on the slope of the North Cheyenne Canyon, Colorado. Photographs by Photo-Craft Shop THE THIN GREEN LINE: VETERANS OF A HUNDRED BATTLES ABOVE THE CLOUDS They bend to the blast, but no blow of elements can cause their stout hearts to quail in their unequal fight to hold the Mount Baldy timber-line. THE FIGHT AT THE TIMBER-LINE 187 ip T PHotee oh by Photo Crate Shop A STATELY SENTINEL ON THE FIRING LINE s The scene of the ceaseless struggle is “The Summit,” near Pike’s Peak, Colorado. cease : Photograph from James B. McNair NO GIANTS THESE, BUT STAUNCH AND VALIANT FIGHTERS Lodge-pole pines near the summit of Mount San Antonio, southern California, endure the blows of battle with stoic calm. 188 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Bhoroeraon by Etieo Brehme MOUNT ORIZABA, MEXICO, UP WHOSE SLOPES MARCH THE TREE HOSTS FROM THE TROPICS TO THE ETERNAL SNOWS A hundred romances are concentrated in the story of the advance of the forest phalanxes from the base to the summit of this matchless peak. Cate os é Photograph by Vittorio Sella CARRYING THE BATTLE INTO THE INHOSPITABLE HEIGHTS OF THE RUSSIAN CAUCASUS * a THE FIGHT AT THE TIMBER-LINE 189 SEA ss SESE NS Ss Photograph by A. J. Baker GHOSTS OF THOSE TREES WHICH FOUGHT THE GOOD FIGHT, BUT WERE CUT OFF IN THEIR PRIME: ON THE SLOPES OF MOUNT CLEVELAND, MONTANA borrowed freely. Telling of the great forest areas that stretch along the Pacific Coast from California to Alaska, he re- lates how the trees arrange themselves with military precision, each species in strict accord with the laws of altitude and climate. Where low gaps in the Coast Range give free access to the west- ern wind, the trees retreat toward the base of the mountains. As one proceeds northward the conifers advance toward the coast, always seek- ing, whether climbing the mountain or approaching the sea, the conditions of terrain and climate best suited to their plan of campaign and style of attack. The tree that finds itself'at home on the shores of Puget Sound, climbs up 6,000 feet into the Sierra-in the latitude of middle California. THE MILITARY HIGHWAYS FOLLOW THE HOLLOWS The roads by which the trees advance to the timber-line usually follow the hol- lows that reach up toward the heights; for the howling winds that sweep over the unprotected ridges by which the 190 TELE WIND EARP OF THE PINES .ON \BLATTOPR’ ROCKY, MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK This is a characteristic study of a wind-blown pine found at timber- line on the Flattop trail. mountain is buttressed make them inhos- pitable lines of march. Here, however, the Frost King turns loose his bombing squadrons, which drive down these mountain hollows with dis- astrous effect. Irresistible avalanches make massed assaults, crushing every- thing within their paths and gathering momentum as they go; they grind down every tree, often leaving their trunks to decay, half buried in the debris that the floods of rock and snow leave in their wake. Yet, undeterred by the vengeance the foe has wrought on their elders, young trees spring up, take the places made THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE vacant by the ava- lanche, and begin afresh a courageous but hopeless struggle for the possession of terrain claimed by the snow. Conditions in the Rocky Mountain thea- ter of war do not dif- fer essentially from those obtaining in the Sierra, except that some types are miss- ing from ‘the tree armies here that are present in those of the Sierra — for instance, the Sequoia. One finds that on the north side of Longs Peak the tree hosts have not been able to press the enemy as closely as on the south side. With the force of the wind somewhat broken and the sup- port of the sun more pronounced, the forces trying to take the cita- del of the mountain from the south are able to scale a thou- sand feet higher than those on the north side. Whenever they find a water-course they suc- ceed in climbing higher than elsewhere. On Mummy Mountain one finds at timber-line that the black spruce is hold- ing the redoubts. Often the trunks of the trees are nearly two feet in thickness, while their height brings their topmost branches only to the shoulders of the war correspondents who chronicle their struggles. WHERE MOUNTAIN FORCES ARE AIDED BY POLAR HOSTS Many distinguished writers have visited the Selkirk theater of war in Canada and have given careful pen pictures of the struggle there. In height, the prevalence of glaciers, and the existence of per- THE FIGHT AT THE TIMBER-LINE ai 191 Photograph from John C. Gifford A DEMONSTRATION OF EXPERT “SAPPING’ IN ONE OF THE BASE CAMPS OF THE FOREST FORCES: CUTLER, FLORIDA : The tree must be a sapper and miner if it would withstand successfully the onslaughts of the enemy. This particular forest fighter will never be called upon to undergo the shock of snow and hail assault, but a wonderful example of nature’s tactics is here shown. Through the spokes of a wagon wheel this rubber tree has sent its sinuous roots, grappling itself to earth as if it feared the irresistible attack of a hurricane. petual snow-fields, the Selkirks resemble the Alps. In ascending beyond 5,000 feet, the balsams and the spruces—the dominant species of the sub-alpine for- est—begin to break up into little groups, separated by shrubs. At 7,500 feet there are still small groups holding the first- line trenches. Frequently the center of one of these groups is a strong and sturdy spruce, the “non com’’ of the little force of small balsams gathered round it. C. H. Shaw, another observer at the front, gives a striking picture of the re- sult of the attacks of snow upon the trees at timber-line in the Selkirks. He says: “In the forest near timber-line, the snow was absent only at the spots occu- pied by the groups of trees into which the forest was becoming resolved. No doubt less snow had accumulated there, and the trees themselves, being dark ob- jects, probably hastened the melting of that which did accumulate; but the rela- tion was none the less significant. Pass- ing higher up, where the snow was heavier, the tree groups were more widely separated, and more sharply con- fined to spots where the local contour had prevented the snow from accumulat- ing to great depths. j “Thus the forest was broken into scat- tered patches of trees, standing mostly on mounds and hillocks. The vicinity of each group was occupied by numerous small trees, and all except the most shel- tered bore battle scars proclaiming their struggle with the snow. Only their tops were in a healthy condition.” “STANDING IN SNOW UP TO THEIR NECKS” In other words, standing in snow up to their necks during the cold winter months, it seems that the trees contracted a sort of “trench foot” trouble of their own. Under such circumstances all sorts of conditions battled on the side of the 192 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ~-. a 5 ag wee pole a Photograph by Robinson-Matlack Company THE FIGHT AT SEA-LEVEL Along Florida’s palm-fringed coast, where the trees must defend themselves against the ever- blowing trade winds, now and then backed by an angry sea. forces of Frost. The buried branches were smothered as effectually as though there had been a gas attack; unable to breathe, they could not throw off the fungi mycelia, the trench rats of their battle line. Some conditions obtain on the Andean battle front that do not apply elsewhere. In the tropical Andes one finds the cin- chona trees, from which the quinine of commerce is derived. From their south- ern range to their northern limit these trees cover nearly thirty degrees of lati- tude, or approximately eighteen hundred miles. ‘They never venture lower than 2,500 feet above sea-level, though they frequently climb as high as 9,000 feet; but at the latter altitude they drop out, leaving to elfin trees and shrub wood the march to the higher reaches. On the broad, desolate steppes of the alpine belt there often appear isolated, gnarled dwarf trees of the species Polylepsis lanuginosa. In none of the other theaters of war where the trees and the frost meet in VHE FIGHT AT THE TIMBER-LINE 193 © Asahel Curtis TIMBER OUTPOSTS ON GUARD IN TATOOSH PARK In the background rises Mount Rainier, the pride of the State of Washington, impregnable to the attacks of the tree hosts. death grapple on the eery slopes of high mountains do the trees have to make their last stand so far from the summits that are their objectives as in the Himalayan war zone. COMMUNIQUES FROM THE HIMALAYA BATTLE LINE There are many sectors and salients in the timber-line of the Himalayas, and it will be interesting to epitomize some of the communiqués that come from them. Mr. and Mrs. Workman, in their ‘T'wo Summers in the Ice-wilds of Eastern Karakorum” and _ their’ “Ice- bound Heights of the Mustagh,” give some in- teresting pictures of the marching hosts that carry the warfare of the trees into the clouds. At Kapaln a rajah took them into his garden and showed them a walnut tree only two feet high that already was in bearing. ‘That year it had produced a crop of three walnuts. At another place they found evergreen trees, mostly cedars, boldly clinging to positions in niches in the vertical or ‘s}ySioy epuess, Jsam uo podwuiedsus Sov} JO JsOY poatoquinuun SIy} JoAO peaids 0} spnoyd JO JoyuLI[G Sulinosqo ue asned YIM S}UIIIND SUT[IYI UMOP JUSS DAY }IUIWINS Pk]d-MOUS 9Y} WOIF SpOD JoyJeIA\ 3 J, MOVILV SVD V DNIYVALNOOONA PLAS 01103314 Aq ydessojoyg 194 = _— NIVO O L \ I 4 UO » a I » ¥ ‘Ppopwofop ATTLUY OFOM SOITOF 991} IY} AIOYM ‘YOOI Sulpporsun oy} Ul AVMYSIY OY} JSeIq OF posn sem ojzLUPUACT MS QSUOLULUT Ud} UL OUT[-TOQUIT} DAOGL UILJUNOW dy} JO SOpIS Po]TeM-YIOI oy} Spuodse YOIYM ‘AVMYSIF] sIqowoyny Yxeog Sxlq sy} Suoje ousos y SLHOIGH HHL NO @WIOHLOOW I YHHL NI YONVAGV SWAWL AHL LIT GNV LHOIM WO :SYALHDIA LSayod AHL JO MOVILLV ONIdOTHANA NV 195 196 nearly vertical rock faces of mountains where there seemed to be no soil and where it appeared impossible for water to remain. And yet their morale must have been at high-water mark, for their luxuriance would have done credit to that of trees in the most favored positions far down the mountains. And this was at an ele- vation of 13,000 feet. There were also deciduous trees, resembling mulberries, clinging to similar positions with a vigor and vim that made them the world’s most famous alpine warriors. Even the wil- lows continued in ranks up to 11,500 feet, and at 14,400 the last struggling bush proclaimed that it was holding the most advanced outpost in the whole line. THE TRUCELESS WAR GOES ON IN JAVA, THE ALPS, AND AFRICA One might find thrilling stories of the truceless war on the timber-line in many another isolated area. In the mountains of Java, on the slopes of the Ruwenzori of Africa, in the Alps of Europe, in the mountains of New Zealand, in a hundred areas, the age-long struggle goes on. Every species of tree that we know pushes just as far skyward and poleward as it can live. Each species finds its place in the general scheme, all maintaining a united front and a solid support against whose morale no efforts of the common enemy avails. It does appear true, however, that dur- ing generations past the forces of Frost have won some little ground from those of the trees. From many regions there come reports of the dead bodies of trees that held positions in advance of any that are now living. How this ground was taken no one may ever know. There are other timber-lines than the one which Frost draws saying to the trees, “They shall not pass!” Just as the Incas drew back into Machu Picchu—into an isolation where no enemy might pursue— so, Many species of trees, weary of the THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE fierce competition of the open forests, seek refuge in tracts where competitors cannot come. Some of them invade the desert, preferring its burning thirst to the strenuous struggle of the thick forest; others find their place in the grassy plains, where most trees are unable to gain a foothold. MAN PROVES AN ALLY OF FROST Sometimes man proves an ally of the forces that try to limit the boundaries for the trees. The so-called Alpine pas- tures of the Cévennes, in France, are not, indeed, above the timber-line at all. Rather, they are merely grass-covered clearings, where the trees were destroyed so long ago that the memories of the na- tives run not to the contrary. In many parts of the world woodland and grassland oppose one another as rig- orously as two hostile nations of equal strength, locked in a stalemate. The trees do their best to expand their kingdom at the expense of the grass, but the grass holds its front-line trenches 1n a way that is wonderful to behold. Whoever has seen the tree-line on the prairies of North America, the pampas of South America, the steppes of Asia, the veldt of Africa, or the plains of Australia must be im- pressed with the hardihood of the grassy Davids that lay low the tree kingdom’s Goliaths. | No one can follow the armies of the trees around the world without gathering a keen impression of them as soldiers. So well are the different classes of troops trained that there are forces for every front. The way they meet the fighting conditions of the sectors they are sever- ally called upon to hold—whether in cold Siberia or in the tropics, whether on polar plain or mountain summit, whether on the edge of the desert or the rim of the world—shows an adaptability to environ- ment and circumstance that makes no mean contrast with the applauded gifts of man himself to carry war where he will. INDEX FOR JANUARY-JUNE, 1922, VOLUME READY Index for Volume XLI (January-June, 1922) will be mailed to members upon request. VIEWS OF THE LINCOLN MEMORIAL IN WASHINGTON 197 SS et enh CN a ol. «alm, ae © Harris & Ewing THE LINCOLN MEMORIAL AND ITS REFLECTING POOL, SEEN FROM THE TOP OF THE WASHINGTON MONUMENT “Here on the banks of the Potomac, the boundary between the two sections, whose conflict made the burden, passion, and triumph of his life, it is peculiarly appropriate that it should stand. Visible in its distant beauty from the Capitol, whose great dome typifies the Union which he saved, seen in all its grandeur from Arlington, where lie the Nation’s honored dead who fell in the conflict, Union and Confederate alike, it marks the restoration of the brotherly love of the two sections in this memorial of one who is as dear to the hearts of the South as to those of the North” (see page 204). Auun st ur possaiddns o1v yyproiq pue y}sus] pue yy soy pue SSCL }edIS S}I Jey} BUY OS JP Suoy yoo} Foz st aseq spr ye umsozzeyd oy, ‘Qpeis Jey} VAOGe Joof 7ZI JO [e}O} & Soyovot jelowley 9} JO suoNsOdoI1d syJ, “APIA Joo} Pei pure YOOL pos sy} WIT “SUISII Useq sey INJoNI}s 9u} sivaf Ud} JOJ,, }I ‘Qpess [CUISIIO OY} MO]Iq Joo} o§ ‘oveuUloJOg IY} JO JIA] VY} Y}eouoq zcOr ‘oF AVIN ‘SHSIOVAXA NOLLVOIGAC ‘IVINOWAW N’IOONIT AHL QOIAINS any Auly 'S "Aq ydeisojoyd & 198 “ « SSOUPVIAST SIY FO UOISSaIdxo oy} OF aJeNbape jv ue dopaaop oO} ow} prey sey Wjooury [Pot oy} JO UoNdosd1od Siusdsap pue Surmoss oy} YM younsut UOHVIQUIG V [YUN WA pynoys FF yey} ‘9qaew Ul WAOF soye} wu OF OJNqQIIy JeUOCTeU S[dood sty o10faq ssed pynoys Ainjusd e& Jyey yeys jam st WE WLENIM NI ‘TVIYOWHW N’IOONIT AHL PRIS orydersoay [euoyeN ‘Swe AA UIMG preuceypy Aq ydeisojoyg 199 200 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 4), Soke ” Bia i Rie : : Sagas = «Fes sad Photograph by Charles Martin, National Geographic Staff THE LINCOLN MEMORIAL, WITH THE WASHINGTON MONUMENT, AND THE CAPITOL AND NATIONAL MUSEUM DOMES IN THE DISTANCE “The outside columns are the simple Doric, the inside columns the simple Ionic. The marble of the structure is from the Colorado Yule mine, remarkable for its texture and the purity of its white, and for the size of the drums which make the columns noteworthy in the architecture of the world.” VIEWS OF THE LINCOLN MEMORIAL IN WASHINGTON 201 i jj Yy Y a p Photograph by Charles Martin, National Geographic Staff “HERE IS AN ALTAR UPON WHICH THE SACRIFICE WAS MADE IN THE CAUSE OF LIBERTY” “The statue is the work of Daniel Chester French, one of our greatest sculptors. It fills the memorial hall with an overwhelming sense of Lincoln’s presence, while the mural decorations of another great American artist, Jules Guérin, with their all-embracing allegory, crown the whole sacred place.” A a a a a eae Photograph by Charles Martin, National Geographic Staff THE INTERIOR OF THE MEMORIAL AND “THE COLOSSAL FIGURE OF THE BELOVED IN GEORGIA MARBLE” 4 : 202 nest L,. Crandall a ¥ OK RS OI N 4 + _ Ly 203 DIN THE WAT! FLECTE AXIS OF THE MALL, RE ND OF THE nN 4 ¥ 4 4 4 MORIAL, AT THE 4 \/ LINCOLN MI 4 4 4 WISH 204 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE : vs gk Phacoarapnby Charles Martin, National Geographic Staff THE LINCOLN MEMORIAL IN CHERRY-BLOSSOM SEASON Lincoln, of all Americans next to Washington, deserves this place of honor. He was of the immortals.” [Text, pages 197-204, extracted from the address of the Honorable William Howard leantts Chief Justice of the United States and Chairman of the Lincoln Memorial Commission, in presenting the Memorial to the President of the United States, May 30, 1922.] s = coe hb ARene Ace AN AIR ROUTE OF THE FUTURE By VILHJALMUR STEFANSSON HE map of the Northern Hemi- | sphere shows that the Arctic Ocean is a huge Mediterranean. It lies between the continents somewhat as the Mediterranean lies between Europe and Africa. In the past it has been an im- passable Mediterranean. In the near fu- ture it will not only become passable, but will become a favorite air route between the continents, at least at certain seasons— safer, more comfortable, and consisting of much shorter “hops” than any other air route that lies across the oceans that separate the present-day centers of pop- ulation. : We shall “soon” be booking our pas- sage from New York to Liverpool, or London to Tokyo, by dirigible or plane in as matter-of-course a way as we now book our passage by steamer. As to how far in the future that period lies, our esti- mates differ according to our tempera- ments. When Tennyson spoke of the “aérial Navies grappling in the central blue,” he was a poet and a prophet, for no inven- tions were then available the mere devel- opment of which could make such dreams a reality. When we now speak of the coming transoceanic air commerce, we are no longer prophets, tor we are merely considering the daily and yearly increase in efficiency of inventions which we now have. The thought is, however, in the back of our minds that, in addition to such in- creasing perfection of known _instru- ments, we shall eventually have also en- tirely new devices that are at present as much in the future as- were even the crudest approaches to an aerial navy in the time of Tennyson. FLIGHT BY WAY OF NORTH CAPE Although our estimates of when trans- oceanic air service shall be no longer a novelty differ according to our tempera- ments, they vary only between years in the vision of the optimist and decades in the gloomier view of the pessimist. OL But whenever the time of regular trans- oceanic air commerce arrives, there will be in England not only those who desire to book passage by air for New York, but also others who have pressing affairs awaiting them in Tokyo. Then will arise the choice of routes, and in the summer season at least it will be thought an absurdity for those in a hurry to go from England to Japan by way of either New York or Montreal. They will fly by way of the North Cape of Norway and Novaya Zemlya. Since the days of Magellan it has been a commonplace that you can go east by sailing west. It is about to become an equal commonplace that you can go east by flying north. The days of Columbus and Magellan were in Europe days of intellectual renais- sance. People had not generally known even that the world was round; but when that novel view once was presented, they drew from it all its proper conclusions. One of the most fruitful of these was that you could reach China not only by sailing west, but also by sailing north, and it was soon realized that the shortest route from Europe to China was a north- erly one. In navigation we call this the principle of great-circle sailing. NORTHWEST PASSAGE NOT PRACTICAL FOR SEES But in certain places lands barred the way of the navigator, and everywhere the “frozen ocean” hindered the ships. There was failure after failure of great expeditions, until finally it was agreed that although a northwest. passage was possible; it was not a practical” route, and that neither time nor expense could be saved by using it. Before the days of the Suez and the Panama canals, it was cheaper and safer . to sail around the Horn or the Cape of Good Hope than to navigate the north- west passage around America or the northeast passage between the Pole and Asia. Although the difficulty of making 206 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE BO TON ANT SHED ST LV >= >Colombo VEZ CANAL HDL. . SUEZ CAWALT Port Said \ ea | | s\- SIBEP/, \ A Irkutsk — \ 1% yr, \ \ CE \ Gibraltar} f ~ )) \ J 10 eek | OPiymouth \ Se = Ne ss ) 0; ISK Tons: aa Ya i ae = NSB, \ Sl o/07% S ON oe % say \ ie Wis Es pe ae | a. z Ca ranz Jose Loa = Vaz Sas ae oh Capez90 PIECE, ae of? es ; Sed 7 (bnb Pitney i Be (4 TREES = e CH ee : = A R OrG Ba igre ‘ ign | ee ra Hoot xe as ole A 7 FES os Seay oe ees Ser S < Parry Is. PrP r ratrick ee ie es ui Rewtangl, C peers eC eee vee nt [A M ALL DISTANCES ARE IN STATUTE MILES Eo | fo) 500 1000 2000 »SanFrancisc SS eee I ~~. APPROXIMATE SCALE OF STATUTE MILES ~~ | Drawn by A. H. Bumstead and James M. Darley A SKETCH MAP OF THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE SHOWING PROPOSED ROUTES OF AIRCRAFT OVER THE ARCTIC ZONE For many centuries, explorers, sailing in the interest of commerce, sought Northwest and Northeast Passages to the Far East. After many failures which proved costly in lives and ships, both arctic routes. were discovered, but the perils of the tortuous passages through icy seas far outweighed any advantage of shorter distance. Now, new northern passages are contemplated — passages through the air from northern North America to northern Europe and Asia; the Old and New Worlds are only a few “hops” apart, as the airplane flies. The northern continents, separated by the Arctic, seem, in the vision of the airman, not much farther apart than are Africa and Europe, separated by the Mediterranean, or North and South America, separated by the Caribbean. THE eARCIIC AS) AN AR these northerly voyages is in the public mind grossly exaggerated, the fact re- mains that for surface craft these really are not practical’ routes from) the com- mercial point of view. Although realizing the applicability of aircraft to commerce and warfare in our own latitudes, we have not adequately realized their significance in solving, after four hundred years, the problem of the northwest passage and giving us at last a short route from Europe to the Far East. Whether it be in five years or in fifty that aerial transoceanic commerce in tropical and temperate latitudes becomes a com- monplace, transpolar commerce will then be equally common for at least the sum- mer months. At present, passenger liners in crossing the Atlantic have winter routes that differ sometimes by several hundred miles from their summer routes. Aircraft will doubt- less be even more free in their variations of route according to season. Indeed, it is probable that the weather bureaus, which will by then have multiplied at least by ten their present great importance to commerce, will publish daily or several times a day maps of the air routes, the in- formation of which will be conveyed by wireless messages to the commanders of aircraft, enabling them to vary from hour to hour the courses they steer, as to lati- tude and longitude and altitude. THE AIRMAN-MAY CHANGE HIS WIND With the sailor on the ocean it is, out- side of the trade-wind belt, almost a mat- ter of accident whether the winds blow him fair or foul, but in the air there may be a fair wind a certain distance up and a head wind either higher or lower. The airman may change his wind from fair to foul by raising or lowering his craft. It is, therefore, impossible to say now just where the transpolar air routes will lie, and indeed they will probably al- ways vary from day to day. But, wher- ever they lie, they are sure to be advan- tageous commercially and popular with passengers, at least during the season corresponding to that in which the tourist of today sails to Alaska or Norway or Spitzbergen to see the midnight sun. For the coming popularity of the trans- polar air routes from North Europe to eastern Asia and from North America to ROUTE OF THE FUTURE 207 northern Asia there are four main rea- sons. We shall consider these in their relation to the needs of a passenger who wants to go from England to Japan. The first advantage of the polar route is its shortness. The most practical route of the recent past has led from England by way of ocean steamers to Montreal, the Canadian railways to Vancouver, and then by the northerly steamer route along the Aleutian Islands to Japan. This route is approximately 11,000 miles from Liver- pool to Yokohama. But the distance from a railway terminus at the north of Great Britain to the north end of Japan proper, where railway travel could be again re- sumed, is by air route only 4,960 miles, or about half the present regular route between the two countries. IMMENSE SAVING OF DISTANCE To a man in a hurry, whether for per- sonal transportation or the transportation of urgent dispatches, a saving of half the distance, meaning also saving of half the time, will in some cases be extremely 1m- portant. But the route has other advan- tages, wnich in other cases may be even more attractive. Economy in hydrogen is the second im- portant advantage of the polar route. It is said that helium is for dirigibles a pref- erable gas, not only because it will not explode, but also because it does not ex- pand rapidly with heat. However, helium is at present exceedingly rare, so rare that even were the costliness of it no con- sideration, we would still be at a loss to see how any considerable number of diri- gibles could be operated with that gas. Paint the bag silver or any color you will, the amount of heat locally gener- ated by the sun’s rays striking the dirigi- ble is great. ‘The hydrogen expands, and there is no practical way as yet conceived which can avoid the loss of gas. You can avoid a bursting of the bag only by allowing the gas to escape. This is the chief factor which limits the length of balloon voyages. A certain amount of | gas is lost each day and reciprocally a cer- tain amount of ballast has to be thrown out each night to prevent the balloon from settling to earth. But the alternation of day and night, which seems a necessary evil to those habituated to southern latitudes, is not a 208 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Captain C, T. Pedersen A SIBERIAN SKIN CANOE WITH COVERING OF SPLIT WALRUS HIDES “Of what practical benefit is Arctic exploration?” is a question often asked by the utili- tarian, unimpressed by scientific research and investigation. The adaptation of the explorer’s knowledge of the Polar regions to the needs of the passenger-carrying Arctic airman will be one answer to this query. THE CNRCIICTAS AN AIR ROUTE, OF THE FUTURE 209 factor in the polar re- gions, whether in mid- winter, when it is al- ways dark, or in mid- summer, when it is al- ways light. We shall, for the present, con- sider only summer journeys. ithe@ speed of thie dirigible that has al- ready crossed the At- lantic was great enough so that, had it Started north from Scotland with a full supply of hydrogen just after a spring sunrise, it could have Beacned the area Of perpetual davlight, near Iceland, in fif- teen or twenty hours. This means that such a dirigible would not be overtaken by darkness at all in the beginning of its trip and would meet its first night only after crossing the polar area and penetrating well ito —Asia. - On’ the major portion of the voyage from England to Japan, there would, accordingly, be no great expansion or contraction of the hy- drogen, no consider- able loss of buoyancy Om Mmeces sity, for throwing out ballast, giving not only an in- creased cruising ra- dius to the dirigible, but also an increased freight - carrying ca- pacity. In air voyages no less than sea voyages, things will doubtless occasionally go wrong. This brings us to the third great advantage of the northern route. , Photograph by Canin C. T. Pedersen FORCING A WAY THROUGH THE SMALL FLAT ICE IN THE BERING SEA IN EARLY SPRING The presence of relatively stable ice-floes in the polar ocean would be an advantage to aircraft in case of forced landing. Cakes of ice would serve as life-rafts (see text, page 211). ‘OISIOURI] US 0} JYSNoIG pue P2ossE] 219M Sqnd OA} oY} PUL ‘19}eM dy} OF YOO} H JO}Fe Poy[H] SEM Ivoq Ivjod sty J, SNIML WH AGNV YWALOW OILOUV NV uasiopag “J, ‘OD ureyden Aq ydessojoyT 210 THE ARCIMC AS AN AIR ROUTE OF THE FUTURE If you get into trouble, you would rather that it happened in daylight than in dark- _ ness. In stories of sea tragedies, the stop- page of the engines, the failure of the light plants, and the plunging of the whole ship into inky darkness are often the most ter- rifying features. Just when a crisis brings the need of swift and pertinent action, every effort is thwarted because no man can see what to do or what others are doing. Under the perpetual sun of the polar summer, we shall always be free from at least this attribute of southern tragedy. ICE-PLOEKS AS *LIFE-RAETS On the polar route, although the sur- face of the sea may not be more than half covered by substantial cakes of ice, there would be a reasonable certainty of landing on one of them. Were there a forced landing in open water, it would presumably not be more than a few miles from the nearest ice-floe, which could be reached by such life-rafts or other devices as a dirigible would naturally carry on a transatlantic voyage in southern latitudes. Thus, the presence of stable ice-floes in the polar ocean is the fourth great advan- tage of this route. The temperature on the ice-floes in summer is usually warm enough for com- fort, when one is dressed in spring or fall (medium) clothing; occasionally it is un- comfortably warm. This latter fact will not seem at all surprising to mountaineers who have suffered from the summer sun on the slopes of snow-clad mountains. It may be said that it would not be any fun to be forced to land on an ice cake; but it would be a great deal more fun than having to land among tumbling and breaking seas in the mid-Atlantic. One effect of scattered floes is that even in a gale there are no heavy seas. Indeed, if the ice is abundant, no swell is noticeable in the heaviest gale, and the waves on the patches of open water are only such as one may find on a pond or a small lake. ae Oe) ope callsecontaimime, as: they. always do, position as to latitude and longitude are sent out while the dirigible or plane is descending to the ice or imme- diately after the landing, the party would 21D have days or weeks, and even months, for opportunities of rescue. Some of the enthusiastic advocates of air travel say that we shall eventually have in mid-Atlantic huge rafts — floating islands, in effect—that will be rescue sta- tions for aircraft in distress. While that device may not be impractical, it will at least be difficult and expensive. On the polar route, Nature has already provided a sprinkling of rafts far greater in number and far more stable than anv such artificial rafts can ever be. If not a fifth great advantage, at least a contributory merit of the polar route will be “The Midnight Sun” and kindred marvels, which can be exploited from the tourist point of view by the air liners of the future no less than they are by the tourist boats of today. The transpolar route will become more important decade by decade. In Siberia we have as yet only one great trunk rail- way. It does, however, tap and make ac- cessible many of the mighty rivers that flow north, and there are great steamers on these rivers that make the Arctic locally accessible. | The Trans-Siberian Railway runs in large part through the wheat belt of Asia, and the potential cereal belt extends far north of it. We shall, accordingly, have eventually the development of other great east and west railways and of many spurs running north and south. Tomsk, Ya- kutsk, Irkutsk, and the rest of the cities we have heard of, and many of which we have never heard, will be growing into Chicagos and Winnipegs and Calgarys. CENTERS OF POPULATION WILL MOV¥# NORTH WARD The centers of civilized population in Siberia and in Canada alike will be con- tinually moving north, and, there will be more and more occasion for the use of the polar route. : To people little acquainted with the Arctic, aS most of us are, and musin- formed, as nearly all of us are, there ap-. pear to be many arguments against the polar route. Few of these rest-on any reality. Indeed, where we imagine posi- tive difficulties, there may be positive ad- vantages. Take, for instance, the matter of summer temperature. THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Oscar Halldin SEA-GULLS, GREEN BAY, SPITZBERGEN The birds took flight when the photographer sneezed. We have all of us learned in school that, per square mile per hour, there is more heat received from the sun at the earth’s Equator than anywhere else; but in the minds of most of us this truth 1s only a half-truth, and therefore the most dangerous sort of error, for we have com- monly failed to grasp its interpretative corollary, that while each hour of sunlight brings most heat to the Equator, the hours of sunlight per day in summer increase in number as we go north. WHEN THE ARCTIC GETS MORE HEAT THAN THE EQUATOR This would give a perfect balance if the sunlight lengthened proportionally as the heat per hour lessened. ‘That is not the case. As you go north, the length of day in midsummer increases more rapidly than the amount of heat per hour de- creases; so that, although the heat per hour received at Winnipeg is less than it is in New Orleans, the amount of heat received per day is greater. That is one ‘reason why Winnipeg is frequently hotter than New Orleans in July. For something like five weeks every summer more heat per day is received from the sun on a square mile in the Arctic than at the Equator. If the North Pole were located on an extensive low land, remote from high mountains or any large bodies of water, it would be about as hot as the Equator on the Fourth of July. There is, however, at the Pole and in many places in the remote north a local refrigeration that tempers what otherwise would be unbearable heat. The winters are long, and under certain conditions a great deal of “cold” may be stored up. In the polar basin we have an ocean thousands of miles across and thousands of feet deep, and all this water during the long winter is chilled to the vicinity of 30° Fahrenheit above zero. There is also a certain amount of ice floating around on the surface. We have, therefore, a vast store of “cold” to neu- tralize the terrific downpour of the sum- mer sun’s heat, and it is probable that the air ten feet above the middle of the polar ocean is seldom warmer, even in July, than 50° or 55° Fahrenheit above) zea: Higher up it would be somewhat warmer. ‘This means that conditions of flying, so ihre ARCIIC AS AN AIR ROULE OF THE FULURE Aes As far as temperature is concerned, would be about the same over the polar ocean in July as they would be in France or Eng- land in late winter or early spring. Greenland is peculiar among the polar lands in that its great altitude enables it to store up a large amount of “cold.” In a few other northerly islands there are glaciers of moderate size (Franz Josef Island, Spitzbergen, North Devon) and glaciers of intermediate size (as in Elles- mere Island and Heiberg Island), but there are vast areas of polar lowlands where the little snow that falls in winter (commonly much less than the snowfall of Vermont or Scotland) disappears like magic in the early spring, and where the sun beats down for month after month upon a soil clad with vegetation. LESS PERMANENT SNOW IN NORTH SIBERIA THAN ON MEXICAN MOUNTAINS We can take it for certain that there is far less permanent ice and snow in the lowland of north Siberia than there is in the mountains of Mexico. It is even pos- sible that tropical Africa, with its one or two snow-clad mountains, contains more permanent snow than do all the lowlands of arctic Siberia. © Kleinschmidt SPORT IN THE ARCTIC: ROPING A POLAR BEAR FROM THE SIDE OF A BOAT In arctic Canada we have ice-free low- land everywhere except in the Yukon. In Siberia and Canada there is, there- fore, an aggregate area much larger than the whole of the United States where there is no stored-up “cold” to moderate the heat of the arctic daylight, except the slight chill of the frozen subsoil. This is kept from having much effect on the air by the insulation over it of the cloak of vegetation. Accordingly, we find that at Fort Yukon, in Alaska, north of the Arctic Cir- cle, the United States Weather Bureau has recorded the temperature of 100° in the shade. No thoughtful person will, therefore, suppose that transpolar air journeys will in summer be interfered with by low temperatures. Neither will it be uncomfortable because of extreme heat, for that can always be regulated by the airship’s rising high enough into a cooler air. It is true that parts of the polar regions are given to summer fogs, but fogs lie low over the ocean and presumably the dirigibles and airplanes would navigate in the clear sunlight above them. In our consideration of transpolar com- merce we come naturally to the matter of ‘uondnsd o1uRd[OA Treuney IIA au} JO Yse dy} Aq PdtOAOD JOLIYSIP dy} UL spuod AvoU sUOIS9I MO] JO UOTVeJSdAII dy} UT sjzUR]d Jedioursd oy} Jo ouO st (mnsoYdi4s]) sse1s doy sty J, AYLNNOD AWON AHL NI VYGNOL AHL dO MAIA V :, NOLLOD,, VXSVIV uauto’y *f [eg Aq ydeisojoyg 214 Teptia W S ~~ oUTY y wo \ ry yd > 1 3 “OO TIUVUTUTOD oud O} ony 2A oT FOP sAo1d » r v ‘paxJOAOdsIP UsyM ‘osvessed 4S IOI MOVd AHI NI LAHOOAVO MYVION 9y} AYM SuUOSvoI oY} JO oug Wl WwW N AONVALSIG AHL NI IVOdWIVHM SILOYV AHL ALON :aNNT ONINYAL WIVHM V uasiapeg “LD ureides Aq ydeisojoyg 216 gee bs es Eee CIM eN SeAN ik ROULE OF TH -bULURE base stations, where petroleum and food and rescue aircraft, corresponding to the coast guard vessels of today, will be kept in constant readiness. HOW BASES CAN BE SUPPLIED WITH BUEL AND FOOD These base stations will be supplied by tailways, by ocean steamers, or by river steamers. A glance at the map of the polar air routes shows that they require few long jumps between places that are now reached with fair regularity by ocean or river steamers. How accessible are many of the seem- ingly remote fur-trading outposts of arc- tic Canada and Siberia few of us realize. It would take only about 25 days to make the journey to-day from New York to the mouth of the Mackenzie, 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle in Canada, and tegular railway and steamboat tickets could be bought, if not in New York, at least in Winnipeg or Edmonton. Under normal peace-time conditions a similar surprise would await those who desired to reach the north coast of Siberia by journeying in steamers from _ the Trans-Siberian Railway down one or an- other of the great north-flowing Asiatic Tivers. It goes without saying that where the air route touches the north of Norway or the north Pacific coast of Asia the prob- lem of supply is even simpler. The islands that dot the polar ocean will obviously become important relay stations on the various transpolar routes. It may be said about them in general and about the north coasts of Asia and America that they are now far more easily accessible by steamer than the public real- izes. This accessibility will be doubled by improvements in our ice ships and by the increase of skill and decrease of fear on the part of our sailors. It will be doubled again by the location at difficult points of wireless stations to give captains advance news of ice conditions and by pilot airplanes to pick out ice-free routes that ships may follow. STRATEGIC POINTS EASY OF ACCESS . It will be so easy for ships to supply the strategic points in the polar regions that few of the polar airways will have 217 to be far diverted from the theoretically preferred short routes to seek out-of-the- way places to get petroleum or other sup- plies. As the cereal belts of middle Canada and middle Siberia are increasingly culti- vated, great cities will grow up nearer and nearer the Arctic. We have their be- ginning already. ‘Thirty years ago Ed- monton, for instance, was a village sup- posed to be too far north ever to become anything but what it was, a fur-trading post; today it is a city of 60,000 inhabit- ants. The oil fields of the lower Mac- kenzie, where the Standard Oil Company has extensive operations, and the copper district north of Great Bear Lake already hold a definite promise as commercial centers. It may be of little beyond academic interest this year that the air route from the northern railway terminus on the Athabasca River north of Edmonton to Archangel, in northern Russia, is only 3,946 miles; but as the railway continues to push its way northward through Canada this route between railheads on opposite continents will gain in impor- tance as it becomes shorter and as the communities that depend upon it grow. FEASIBLE ROUTES FROM CANADA TO RUSSIA Steamers have been running to the mouth of the Mackenzie for several dec- ades already. The journey from the present railhead. to the mouth of the Mackenzie can even now be made in fifteen days. It is significant, therefore, that from the mouth of the Mackenzie the air route by which one may pene- trate the interior of northeastern Siberia through the great rivers of the Kolyma system is only 1,541 miles by way of Point Barrow and Wrangel Island, and that the longest hop, from, Point Barrow to Wrangel Island, is only about 450 miles. « By branching off at Wrangel, you can reach the mouth of the Lena, one of the world’s greatest rivers, in a total distance. from the Mackenzie's mouth of 2,208 miles and with the longest single hop, from Wrangel Island to Holy Cape, of about 750 miles. An air route without any jumps longer than 555 miles lies from the mouth of the Mackenzie by way of Prince Patrick 218 Island, Borden Island (discovered by the Canadian Arctic Expedition in 1915), Grant Land, Greenland, and Spitzbergen to North Cape, Norway, a total distance of 2,745 miles. From North Cape, Petro- grad overland is 788 miles. These are but small fractions of the dis- tances that have to be traversed between any of these places by the present land and water routes. The shortest air route from the north of Great Britain to the north of Japan is about 4,960 miles, as against 8,542 for the present London-Tokyo rail and steamer route (or 11,236 miles via Montreal). But, as shown above, the polar route has several advantages above the others be- sides shortness. A disadvantage of the shortest possible route from England to Tokyo is that it is not sufficiently northerly to give the maxt1- mum amount of daylight, for only about halt vor. the journey ‘lies “north of the EXT etics Cincle: THE MOST FEASIBLE FLYING ROUTE To get a greater benefit from the per- petual daylight of the arctic summer, a route might be laid from Scotland to the east tip of Iceland; thence by way of Jan Mayen Island, the summer hotel already established in Spitzbergen; then Franz Joset Land, Emperor Nicholas II Land, or Cape Chelyuskin, and thence overland to Japan. This route is only a few hours’ flying longer than the shortest possible route. How easy a route this will be with the better airplanes and dirigibles of the fu- THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ture is seen if we compare it with the far more difficult things already done with the appliances of two years ago that are fast becoming obsolete. The British biplane that crossed the Atlantic had to make a single “hop” of 1,960 miles from Newfoundland to Ire- land; the N-C4 made a hop of 1,240 miles from Newfoundland to the Azores; Sir Ross Smith in 27 days 20 hours elapsed time flew 11,500 miles from England to Australia, with a longest single hop of 712 miles, and average hops of 412 miles. Compare this with the longest hop of 976 miles on the London-Tokyo short (or polar) route of 6,300 miles. If Sir Ross Smith, with a plane that has been and will be improved upon, has already done these greater things, the solvability of every problem of the Lon- don-Tokyo route is not to be supposed difficult. As the centers of population continue to move north in Canada and Siberia, the importance of the transpolar air routes will correspondingly increase. Whoever grasps at all the vast natural resources of the polar lands and seas and understands the conditions under which they are already beginning to be de- veloped will have fascinating dreams about any number of transarctic air routes destined to come into every-day use whenever air travel in general be- comes a commonplace on the more dan- gerous and difficult but already specula- tively accepted routes between Liverpool and New York, San Francisco, Hawaii, and Japan. Wor KEI No: 3 WASHINGTON SEPTEMBER, 1922 |.-l | | aes USES) 74) We THE NATIONAIL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINIE iene, ey COPYRIGHT,1922, BY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY. WASHINGTON, D. C. ne LONGED UN A IOUICNEY PAR @OUG El CHILE By Harriet CHALMERS ADAMS AUTHOR OF “PICTURESQUE PARAMARIBO,” “‘KALEIDOSCOPIC LA Paz,” ‘“THE First TRANSANDINE RAILROAD FROM I BuENos AIRES TO VALPARAISO,” “‘Cuzco, AMERICA’S ANCIENT Mecca,” “R10 DE JANEIRO > J IN THE Lanp oF LuRE,”’ UR friends in Antofagasta, on () the arid coast of northern Chile, urged us to continue the journey south by sea. “So much easier than the long, dusty railroad trip,” they said. But some years before we had made the voyage, visiting the ports of this elon- gated country, whose amazingly diversi- fied shore, extending through nearly thirty-nine degrees of latitude, is exceeded in length only by Canada and Brazil. This time we decided to travel on the longitudinal railway, from its beginning, in the dreary desert, to its dropping-off place, on the wooded shore of the Gulf of Ancud. Few, save the Chileans them- selves, make this comprehensive journey, from the rainless region of the north to the rich agricultural heart of the country, and on through the magnificent forest and mver lands, long held) by the valiant Araucanian Indians, to that enchanting mountain and lake region unrivaled in beauty the world over. Still farther south, reached by coasting vessel, lies the wild territory of Chiloé, with its curiously denticulated coast and forest-fringed fjords; forbidding Magal- lanes, a network of channels and archi- pelagoes, with majestic glaciers slipping into a leaden sea; and little-known ‘Tierra del Fuego, whose unique pasture lands support two million heavily fleeced sheep, IN THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE supplanting the dappled guanaco on the southernmost range of the world. Chile, the only South American country lying altogether west of the Andes, is Zo27 miles lone. lelaced: east: to west across the United States, its sword-like body, varying in width from 105 to 223 miles, would stretch from the Singer Building, in New York, to the City Hall, in San Francisco, and extend over 50 miles into the Pacific Ocean. Geographically it is much like our Pa- cific coast reversed. Alaskan fjords are paralleled in the Magallanes country. Where we have northern forests in the State of Washington, Chile is arid; where we have southern deserts on the Mexican border, Chile is forested. The long agricultural valley of Chile, alternating between grainfields and vine- yards, corresponds with the “Sunny San Joaquin,” in California, where I was born; and the climate of the more densely inhabited portions of this southern repub- lic is not unlike the sparkling, sun- drenched atmosphere of our own Golden West. Our Antofagasta friends have a garden in the desert. My bedroom window, high up in the tower, commanded a view of the town. Walls and roofs as colorless as the sand were unrelieved by a tree or a blade of grass; yet, just under my window, the barren soil had been touched by the magic ‘RO’T JOALI Oy} Wory out-odid Aq 9ouRIsIP Jeats Pv jYono.1q ST JOJPAA “JOS ST UMO}] BP L M uO pur], JO driays MOtIeU [eUOTISeIDO UB YUM ‘vas oY} WOIF A[JdNAGe Sasti UOLSo1 Sty} UL sapuy 9} FO asurl jseod 94, WILHO JO LHSHd NYAHLYON MHL NI LMOd UWLVALIN V ‘WTTIdOOOL SUIBPY SlouleYy) Jolley, Wory Ydessojoyg ceehetc’ A LONGITUDINAL JOURNEY THROUGH CHILE wand of irrigation. Here firs and euca- lyptus towered above bamboos and olean- ders, and pomegranate and fig trees were heavy with fruit. In the. shade of the grape arbor the breakfast table was. laid. Water is brought 250 miles by pipe-line from the Bolivian Andes. One night the Chinese gardener left the faucet open, and by morning forty dollars’ worth of the precious fluid had been consumed by the thirsty sand. MOUNTAIN PEAKS USED FOR SUN DIALS Irrigation in these lateral coastal val- leys, lying between the Andes and the Pa- cific Ocean, dates back to pre-Spanish days. Then, as now, agriculture was de- pendent on the streams flowing seaward from the Andes. We learned from the American consul at Tacna, in the prov- ince still in dispute between Peru and Chile, of the following ancient method still in vogue: In some of these irrigated districts sun- set is the time fixed for transferring the water from one section to another ; but in the valley, several hundred feet below the inclosing hills, the instant of sunset occurs earlier at the western rim than in the etner-end of the valley. After the sun has set in the lowlands it continues for some time to illuminate the snowy slopes above, which glow with ruby light, then suddenly turn milky white and fade into darkness. To avoid controversy, the ancient Pe- ruvians brought common sense to bear and agreed to consider it sunset at that moment when the sun ceased to illumi- nate the snow-clad mountain peaks. This method, known as “calculating the sky view,” is still in vogue in the province of Tacna. In Antofagasta we boarded the east- bound train on its way to the Bolivian highlands, changing to the Chilean longi- tudinal sixty miles inland on the pampa. The longitudinal’s beginning is at Pisa- gua, a port north of Antofagasta. Arica, still farther north in disputed territory, is not yet connected with the Chilean rail- road system, being beyond the nitrate zone. | Uninterrupted rail communication from north to south was finally completed eight years ago. In the 1,863 miles of track 224 from Pisagua to Puerto Montt, on the Gulf of Ancud, three different gauges are employed. The government owns most of the road and is gradually taking over the northern section, with its many feed- ers, controlled by British and Belgian capital and originally built in isolated re- gions to bring nitrate and other minerals to the coast. It takes a drab pencil to draw for you a picture ofthe country crossed those first two days out from Antofagasta. I looked in vain on the monotonous, treeless plain for so much as a cactus plant. We were too far inland to glimpse the restless, blue Pacific, whose tempestuous surf enlivens even the most colorless of the desert ports, while to the east bleak gray hills shut off the snow-crowned Andes. This stupendous range, whose jagged peaks soar skyward, has created the bar- ren waste by wringing all the moisture out of the trade-winds from the east. Before the Andes rose to their present height, this desert, nearly twice the length of Syria, was a tropical forest. Just to the north, in Tarapaca, numer- ous skeletons of gigantic ant-eaters, deni- zens of the jungle, have been found em- bedded in the sides of ravines. Chile was an altogether different country when the Andes were young. CHILE’S CHIEF SOURCE OF REVENUE Near the railroad I saw deeply fur- rowed patches of white earth resembling old salt deposits. ‘These mark the site of former nitrate workings. Nitrate of soda, Chile’s chief source of revenue, of which the country has virtually a world monop- oly, is obtained from the rough rock known locally as caliche. It is dug or blasted from the earth, in some places lying near the surface; in others 20 to 3 feet below ground. The nitrate deposits lie from 15 to 90 miles inland from the coast, at an altitude varying from a little over 3,000 to 13,000 feet. Scientists disagree as to the origin of this valuable mineral. Some claim (and Darwin among them) that it had its origin in seaweed of an ancient period. One savant argues that the deposit re- sulted from nitrogen contained in guano. Others believe in its atmospheric origin, advancing the theory that in a remote age 222, THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ot © Publishers’ Photo Service HAULING WATER IN THE DESERT This wagon rolls across the northern Chile desert from the distant river. In the Province of Tacna, the territory in dispute between Peru and Chile, a few traverse rivers flow down from the Andes to the sea; then a great stretch of waterless country until the oasis of Copiapo is reached. a Lee * ‘ oe ae be ee Photograph by I. F. Scheeler YARETA, A CURIOUS PLANT OF THE ANDEAN DESERT This member of the celery family (Asarella yareta) grows in a dry, rocky country, at an altitude of about 15,000 feet. It is green in color, highly resinous, makes an excellent fuel, burns like peat, with little flame and much smoke; gives a fair amount of heat, produces much ash, and throws out flames of many hues. In appearance the plant is altogether unlike its relatives, the celery and the parsnip. A LONGITUDINAL JOURNEY electricity passing through moist air, by combination, formed nitric acid; this in turn, impregnating the flood waters of Andean streams and coming in contact with the limestone of the rocks, formed nitrate of lime; another step in Nature’s laboratory brought this nitrate of lime in contact with sulphate of soda, forming the caliche we find to-day. The nitrate fields stretch for several hundred miles along the pampas’ western rim, which marks the edge of the ancient flood waters. TEs Ni RAT hE PROCESS WS SiMPiE The process of production is simple. The loose rock is carried by mule teams, or cars suspended to cables, to the little railways which circulate through the ni- trate establishments, and on to the crush- ing plant, where, after being broken into small pieces, it is thrown into iron vats and boiled until the dissolved saltpeter can be filtered. When crystallized it is cleaned, and the finished salitre, or nitrate of soda, packed in bags and sent to the nearest port. The greater portion now comes to the United States to enrich our soil and to be used in the manufacture of explosives. Iodine, precipitated from the nitrate solution, is the most important by-product of the caliche rock. By agreement among the nitrate establishments, its production ie limited to-every sixth year, that the market may not be overstocked. Operated for the most part by Chilean and British capital, 129 of these nitrate establishments, or oficinas, as they are known locally, are scattered over the pampa back of Pisagua, Iquique, and Antofagasta, their tall chimneys dominat- ing the plain. At night, from our south- bound train, the myriad twinkling lights of these strange desert towns spoke of life and industry in a region altogether dependent for sustenance on the world of trees and pastures beyond the far horizon. A LONG JOURNEY “JUST TO SEE RAIN” At a dreary, sun-baked station, where one ugly galvanized-iron building broke the monotony of the plain, the khaki-clad British manager of one of the nitrate es- tablishments boarded our train. He was going south, he said, “‘just to see it rain.” o THROUGH CHILE San Felix (CHILE) * eSan Ambrosio | Ol esa y © 8 _ Oy SS pelt concagua oMendoza | JUAN FERNANDEZ IS. i Mas-a-tierra ‘GantaClara Mas-a-fuera 2 comet) | Tale | | | Con | teeees | | fo = a Unione! Reh Lake] 40| eal sornog VE. Nahuel-Huans | | PuertoVarashy. uapr © Puerto Montta ‘ | Ancud Castrojfeye v CHILOE? & °F | ) aK | B43, es | Qe .5 c 5 RS tox 145 oi GULF oF} | Peninsula of Taita ST. GEORGE: | | : | | | rey SG i ie | Isthmus?” "| BRess Ss; eal : | | | ae | | | ef Ni? 4 BS Be ee \ al 130 =< =a 7) St Dre 150} Les eee | A 7L4n77¢ | | HS aS 1] “DS SEN OCEAN | | 7 (STRAIT OF | | | Cape Pilar 4 on GELLAN | | rc in IR1Z TEERRA | NDEL‘FOEGO | EVAN JUshual 15 | an ee | Nida, = CAPE HORN 70 65 | —— Drawn by James M. Darley A SKETCH MAP OF CHILE 224 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE of the Indian driver is “Buss-ss-ss.”’ The eternal blue skies had gotten on his nerves. wihenchimatesis trying,” ) he\ told. me; “hot during the day, with afternoon dust- storms, and often frost at night.” His particular settlement, with 2,000 or more inhabitants, is a little world in itself, miles from its nearest neighbor. Sur- rounding the plant are comfortable homes, a hotel, store, hospital, church, post-office, barracks, and a plaza, where the band plays in the evening. According to authorities, the explored nitrate region contains sufficient mineral to last for 240 years, at the present rate of production. b Photograph by R. W. Lohman THE LITTLE COUSIN OF THE CAMEL, In the Andean region of northernmost Chile, as in the neighboring countries of Peru and Bolivia, llamas are used as beasts of burden. They are highland animals and do not come down to the coast. ‘The trail call The nitrate labor- ers are MOSiIe Chileans, the rotos, or workingmen of the country, with a few Bolivians and Peruvians. Chile has always depend- ed for labor on her own peasantry, never importing African slaves or Asiatic coolies, as have other of the Latin American countries. A-| c oto tiga slowly but surely sapping the vitality of the Chilean roto, long noted for his powerful physique. The Latin Ameri- can of the educated class drinks tem- perately, regarding Wine as a nourish- ment rather thanea stimulant; but, on my last journey, I noted a growing movement in fa- vor of prohibition throughout Chile, among thinking people who realize the evil) resmimeor alcohol. onthe working classes. The second night out from Antofa- gasta we reached Copiapo, where we left the Valparaiso Express to travel there- after on “local” day trains, stopping off in many Chilean towns all the way down to the Gulf of Ancud. CHILE’S MOST HISTORIC TOWN Copiapo is Chile’s most historic town. The little stream which borders it, now nearly dry, now in full flood, was our first oasis after crossing the parched desert of Atacama. To travelers of old, as to us, this strip of meadow land was a God-given sight. To Copiapo, in the fifteenth century, marched the Incan ruler, Tupac Yupan- ve A LONGITUDINAL JOURNEY THROUGH CHILE W25 PhecOsTaph bya cha Tdsis eres NITRATE FIELD ENGINEERS ON A TOUR OF INSPECTION These fields of northern Chile stretch for several hundred miles along the pampas’ western rim. Operated for the most part by Chilean and British capital, 129 of these nitrate estab- lishments, or oficinas, as they are known locally, are scattered over the pampa back of Pisagua, Iquique, and Antofagasta. The engineers of one of these establishments are making their rounds in a mule-drawn car furnished with a brake and two good seats, but no springs. ee nn VOUT AS bp e Yi * : * * © Publishers’ Photo Service A DESERT TRAIN WITH IRON WHEELS SUPPLANTING RUBBER TIRES (+ abhie Chilean longitudinal railroad does not extend north of Pisagua, but many of the nitrate establishments have their local railways. The American automobile is here supplanting the old mule-team. 226 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE wee SADR rs ea oat > en X= ie nd ig teas sec Ae ee Sr: ee © Publishers Photo Service BALES OF JUTE BAGS FROM INDIA YOR THE NITRATE FIELDS The northern ports of Iquique and Antofagasta are open roadsteads, ships anchoring well offshore. qui, with his victorious army, to subju- gate the tribes of northern Chile. The Inca’s trail from Peru led down the backbone of the snow-clad Andes and across the burning desert. In1535 Diego de Almagro, a colleague of Pizarro, traveled the same road with a great army of Spaniards and Peruvians, horses and llamas, two Incan princes acting as guides. Old Spanish chronicles tell of the ter- rible suffering from cold and thirst en- dured by Almagro’s men on the six months’ march. The desert was strewn with their bones, Alluring were Co- piapo’s meadows to those who survived! Almagro failed to subdue the southern natives, and five years later a Spanish army was again encamped in Copiapo, led this time by Pedro de Valdivia, who kept on south to found Santiago. In the halcyon ‘days of ’49, when Cali- fornia’s gold lured men round the Horn, Valparaiso became the great mart of the Pacific coast, supplying flour and other commodities to the California miners. My pioneer grandfather used to tell me A LONGITUDINAL JOURNEY THROUGH CHILE 227 ee oo 4 ” ma Photographs by Arthur Madge IMAGES OF PREHISTORIC DAYS FOUND IN CHILE The stone figure at the left was unearthed in an underground habitation south of Calama, on the old Incan highway between Cuzco and Copiapo. gives us the dress of a remote period, probably antedating Incan rule. The costume, splendidly preserved, The image at the right is of silver, and was found by a chinchilla hunter on the pampa of northern Chile, not far from the Bolivian frontier. It is three inches in height and represents a woman of the ruling class. The colors of the feather-work and the vicufa wool garments are well preserved. of those eventful days. When he was in Chile in the early fifties, Copiapo was an important town, sharing the European opera season with Santiago and Valpa- raiso. Grandfather knew William Wheel- wright, the American captain of industry, who in 1851 built the first railroad in South America from the port of Caldera, 50 miles inland to Copiapo. Wheelwright’s dream was of a trans- continental railway across the Andes to Tinogasta, in Argentina, and on to the Atlantic; but the road never got far be- yond Copiapo. THE ROMANTIC STORY OF GODOY, THE SILVER KING This great American also gave Chile its telegraphic system and, after failing to interest American capital in a steamship line between Valparaiso and New York, turned to England and inaugurated in the early sixties the first steamer service between the west coast and Europe. In 1832 a donkey driver, Juan Godoy, discovered a silver deposit near Copiapo and put the long-neglected town on the map. Godoy’s story reads like a romance. Tired of loading his train of donkeys with scanty brushwood for town cus- tomers, he started across the pampa to hunt the roving guanaco. Sitting on a rock to rest, he discovered that his seat was of silver. Returning home with specimens, he shared the knowledge of his discovery with an educated acquaint- ance, who aided the ignorant man to make the most of his find. Godoy became the Silver King of that period. It was hard for us to visualize Copiapo’s past splendor in the forlorn little town that we found. Half the buildings were still in ruins, after the disastrous earth- 228 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE A NITRATE PLANT OF NORTHERN CHILE At the side of the plant are big hoppers into which caliche, the crude nitrate rock from the pampa, is unloaded. From the hoppers the rock is fed into the crushers, and, after being broken into small pieces, is thrown into iron vats and boiled until the saltpeter can be filtered. CRYSTALLIZATION VATS, NITRATE PLANT The hot brine, brought down from the boiling-tanks through the trough in the foreground, is cooled and crystallized in these vats. The nitrate, dug out of the vats a few hours ago, 1s now draining on the ledge. Most of Chile’s nitrate comes to the United States to be used as fertilizer. A LONGITUDINAL JOURNEY THROUGH: CHILE © Publishers’ Photo Service IODINE, A BY-PRODUCT OF NITRATE MANUFACTURE Precipitated from the nitrate solution, iodine is the most important by-product of the caliche rock. By agreement among the nitrate establishments, its production is limited to every sixth year, in order that the market may not be overstocked. These rawhide kegs, filled with iodine, are worth $300 each. quake of the previous year. The hotel, kept by a sad-faced Englishman, had a decided tilt. Doors and windows were jammed and window-panes missing. Our host apologized for candle-light, saying that the gas-pipes were still out of com- mission. The stone bathtub, reached by a rickety flight of steps, had a somewhat tipsy appearance. But the Copiapinos have not lost cour- age. More than once earthquakes have completely demolished the town. In this land where the extreme infrequence of showers is a hardship, they have come to believe that earthquakes are forerunners of much-needed rain. Between quakes they look to the east, watching for a heavy fall of snow in the Andes. ‘Then the river runs full and the fields smile. From Copiapo a trail across the desert leads to the mountains, so sterile, gaunt, and forbidding; yet there is a majesty in the Andean contour. From our bleak, upland camp at the sunset hour, the coloring of slopes and crags was gorgeous beyond adjectives to describe. Pink deepened to rose; rose to terra-cotta; terra-cotta to purple. Then each tower- ing peak became a sentinel guarding a mysterious Promised Land beyond the Andes. We passed the ruins of long-abandoned stone dwellings, occupied, perhaps, in those remote days of pre-Incan rule when these mountains had not risen to their present height and this region was within the corn belt. HOME OF THE GUANACO, VICUNA, AND CHINCHILLA We geographers must think of the Andes, not as a range rising from the coastal plain, but as the most stupendous mountain system in the world, if we con- 230 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph from Harriet Chalmers Adams AN AMERICAN COPPER MINE IN THE CHILEAN ANDES If poverty-stricken in verdure, northern Chile is superlatively rich in minerals. rival American mining companies operate gigantic’ copper properties. Here two A railroad from a port on the Pacific ascends the mountains by way of this canyon, 3,000 feet deep, to the American mine. sider its gradual slope from ocean bed to crowning summit. Young, as compared with other great ‘ranges, it is still the giant among them. These heights are the home of the rov- ing guanaco and vicufia, wild cousins of the llama and alpaca, all of cameloid stock. Here soars the mighty condor. A little to the north lies a highland plateau known as the Pampa of the Ostrich, where an occasional rhea, once so abundant on the Argentine plains, still roams. One afternoon we rode past a natural rock fortress with innumerable windows. At each opening squatted a wise little gray viscacha, gazing out over the plain. A southern naturalist told me of the re- markable habits of these strange rodents. “In Argentina,” he said, “the farmers endeavor to destroy whole colonies of viscachas by filling in the openings to A LONGITUDINAL JOURNEY THROUGH CHILE Wap: Photograph from Harriet Chalmers Adams AN AMERICAN COPPER MINE OF CENTRAL CHILE It lies high up in the mountains, in the crater of an extinct volcano. buildings are deep in snow. ance to the isolated camp. their burrows. ‘The task completed, the men ride off, satisfied that the crops in this particular section will no longer be undermined. A mile or more away an- other viscacha colony receives, in some mysterious manner, an S. O. 5. signal, and off the animals scamper to dig out their unfortunate neighbors.” The fleet pampa fox and the velvety chinchilla dispute the borderland between plateau and plain. Near the railroad we passed a chinchilla farm, a new and profitable industry. The area was in- closed by a huge galvanized-iron fence sunk deep in the ground that the valuable animals might not burrow out. In the winter the By night the flare of electric lights gives a most fantastic appear- Cattle are driven from Argentina into Chile over the mountain passes, making the journey with their front hoofs shod. Throughout the length of Chile there are many of these Andean passes used by the natives from time immemorial. Through one of these natural defiles a railroad, now building west from Salta, in north- west Argentina, will eventually enter the Chilean nitrate desert, bringing vegetables and fruits now imported from the valleys of the south. LAND SUPERLATIVELY RICH IN MINERALS If poverty-stricken in verdure, this region is superlatively rich in minerals. oO THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE SHEETS OF COPPER READY FOR MELTING At this big American copper mine in Chile, plates from the electrolytic tanks, where the copper in solution has been plated onto lead “‘starting plates,’ are loaded on cars and carried to the furnaces to be melted. This electrolytic method produces the purest copper. Photographs by Richard B. Hoit CASTING THE MOLTEN COPPER A machine-operated ladle pours the metal into four molds. Each mold contains from 175 to 200 pounds of 99.6 per cent pure copper. A LONGITUDINAL JOUKNEY THROUGH “CHILE Dae io Publishers’ Photo Service A BARGE-LOAD OF COPPER One of the copper deposits in northern Chile is said to be the largest of its kind in the world, with the possible exception of a Peruvian copper property not yet ‘thoroughly prospected. Nitrate and copper to-day, and manganese, perhaps, to-morrow, guarantee Chile’s economic place in the world’s markets. Metal mining dates back to the days when the Chilean aborigines paid tribute to the Incas in gold and silver. Nitrate and copper to-day and manganese, per- haps, to-morrow guarantee the nation’s economic place in the world’s markets. Cobalt, nickel, lead, and sulphur are mined. Two rival American mining companies operate gigantic copper properties. I visited one camp, a transplanted Amer- ican city with 15,000 inhabitants, where soodrold Ue. Sa A= jazz resounded by night through the canyon. One of these properties is the largest of its kind in the world, with the possible exception of a Peruvian copper mine not yet thoroughly prospected. By the electrolytic method here employed, the purest copper is pro- duced. We met a group of engineers and geologists, representing a Japanese syndi- cate, exploring Chile’s undeveloped min- eral wealth. They proposed to acquire 234 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE z Pie Z Z Bes we % EE BE ica oe - ‘i a a Photograph by Publishers’ Photo Service 5 élite i: i” SEA-EELS FOR SALE! The fishman is offering his catch of cOngrio, a fish which derives its Spanish name from its elongated appearance. It is found in northern Chilean and southern Peruvian waters. Photograph by Harriet Chalmers Adams FLOUR FOR THE INTERIOR In the days of ’49 the bread of the California miners was made from Chilean flour. Wheat is raised principally in central Chile, where the long, fertile valley between the mountain ranges is like the golden valley of California. Agriculture represents a high proportion of Chilean industry, one and a quarter million acres being cultivated for wheat. A LONGITUDINAL JOURNEY THROUGH CHILE THIS FRUIT VENDER’S PACK ANIMAL IS EQUIPPED WITH COWHIDE Wi Ay “yy Photograph by Publishers’ Photo Service PANNIERS After the journey through the northern desert, it is refreshing to reach those irrigated valleys where the finest grapes and melons are grown. mines and work them on a grand scale with modern methods. Under the jurisdiction of the Depart- ment of Caldera, in which Copiapo is situated, is an isolated Chilean island, 2,000 miles west in the Pacific—Pascua, or Easter Island. It is 1,400 miles from Pitcairn, its nearest inhabited neighbor. The Chileans have a disconcerting way of speaking of this far-away oceanic possession as they would of a near- by province. A meteorological station is located on the island. With its immense stone terraces and colossal monolithic images, Easter Island is one of the threads in that tangled skein, yet to be unraveled, of prehistoric Pacific migrations. ~Are these South Pacific isles the top of a submerged continent? Were they the stepping-stones of an ancient Asiatic civilization which migrated eastward to the New World, leaving its imprint on a primitive Americ people.* The archeological field of northern * See “The Mystery of Easter Island,’ in the NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MaGAZzINE for De- cember, 1921. THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ee Fs & By © Publishers’ Photo Service EXPORTING WOLFRAM ORE Wolfram, the ore from which tungsten is extracted, is also exported from northern Chile. Tungsten is used in the manufacture of tool-steel and for the filament in incandescent lamps. Chile is merely scratched. Under the drifting sands of the vast Atacama desert lies the record of a pre-Incan race. In the Valparaiso Museum I saw a mummy recently unearthed in the Atacama region. The director told me that it differs from the mummies heretofore discovered on the west coast of South America, being more like the Egyptian type. In a col- lection in the Chilean capital I saw im- plements and pottery of this Atacama culture differing widely from archeo- logical remains in Peru and Bolivia. Continuing south from Copiapo, little by little the desert flora grew from tufts of grass and stunted bush to tall algarobas and cacti of many varieties, one with a great red bloom. At Vallenar we entered a wide, irrigated valley, emerald green with alfalfa, and vines heavy with those luscious white grapes whose equal I have found in no other part of the world. The vine, brought originally from Spain in colonial days, is now cultivated throughout an extensive range. The French vine, popular in certain provinces, A LONGITUDINAL JOURNEY THROUGH CHILE Vez I a * Wy yy yO” dg © Publishers’ Photo Service WHEN THE BIG SHIP COMES INTO HARBOR When an ocean liner anchors off the port of Coquimbo, rowboats put out from the shore lacen with fruit from the fertile valley of the river Elqui. Here the wide, irrigated plain is emerald green with alfalfa and vines heavy with luscious white grapes. was introduced in the fifties. Chilean wines are celebrated throughout Spanish America. Here the manufacture of wine is regarded as a national industry and few advocates of prohibition place light wine and beer on the black list. The chief producers market their high- grade brands with a little metal tag at- tached to each bottle. Each tag bears a number. The restaurant proprietor, when uncorking a bottle, keeps the tag. Every month there is a lottery, and those hold- ing tags with the winning numbers re- ceive cash prizes. Some proprietors turn the tag privilege over to their waiters, who naturally urge the patrons to use the tagged brands. At the River Elqui the longitudinal railway gives a twist seaward to serve the charmingly situated town of La Serena and Coquimbo, its port. La Serena, now as tranquil as its name implies, dates back to 1544. In its early history its calm was twice broken by English buccaneers. In visiting its old churches, I was reminded that Chile was devoid of art and industry for two centuries of colonial rule; all church orna- ments and books on sacred subjects were brought from Quito, Ecuador. As you sail down the Pacific coast, you say good-by to verdure at Guayaquil: then follows the long stretch of desert coast through Peru and northern Chile. It is only as you near Coquimbo that green fields again greet you. For a century and a half Coquimbo has been famed as a mining center. - One of our North American steel companies has developed a remarkable iron property in the gigantic Tofo mines, where ore taken from a mountain of iron by steam-shovels ‘Solty souong 0} Solu QQ spus}xX9 TOTYM ‘KEMIIET [PyUSOUUONSUPRAY Ol} JO SNUILUTOF U1O}JSOM OU} ST osreared|e A ‘POS OY} JO Speotut oyy WOsF JUOAF TOPE M OLY yooyoid OF UOLPINAYSUOS Jopun ote SHAOM 340d DAISUD}X4, — *OO0'OOT Ajivou jo uoyryndod B SPY JI ‘d1OYS JUOISI1I B WOT] Joyeoyyydiue ue OMI] Sostt BOLOUY yynoy ul ylod dytoed jolt ol], NOGUVH AHL WOU OSIVAVd'IVA adIAIDS OJOY ,SJ9Yysyqng © ett mena: (oe) Se) N ALONCGLEUDINAL JOURNEY TAROUGH CHILE is conveyed by an electrically operated railroad to the pier and loaded directly, through chutes, into specially constructed steamers. HOW THE CHILEANS TRAVEL From Coquimbo the railroad again strikes inland. ‘Two locomotives urged our train up the steep grade to the cumbre, the rack system being used for some 30 miles. Our fellow-passengers on the day train were middle-class Chileans. The élite patronize the express. In Chile, as in other of the South American countries, the middle class has gained strength since my first visit, In 1903. The aisle was crowded with hand-bags of huge proportions, as very little luggage can be checked free of charge. We heard much grumbling about the terrific increase in fares—75 per cent for passengers and 50 per cent for freight) Since then there has been still another increase. Our car was the average day coach that one sees in the “States’’—a little cleaner, perhaps. A placard on the wall gave the date when the car was last disinfected. Each family carried an enormous lunch- basket, well stocked with cold meats, chicken, bread, fruit, wine, sweets, and other edibles. ‘The dining-car, used only at meal time in our country, is filled all day long in Chile, the tables being utilized for cards and dominoes. Smoking is permitted in the diner, as well as in the coaches. Our train carried no second-class coach. In the third class were four benches running the length of the car. “Red caps” to carry luggage and uni- formed armed guards for police duty were in evidence at the stations. We entered a mountainous region where graceful palms covered the hillsides. This is the palm from which the famous micl de palma (honey of the palm) is obtained. The tree is not tapped, as in the produc- tion of maple sugar, but is felled. The sap obtained is converted into a syrup, in great demand to serve with hot cakes, here known as “panqueques.” Featured also on the menu we find two other old acquaintances—‘‘cau-ktailes” and ‘‘beef- teackes.”” It takes six days of daylight ‘travel from Antofagasta to Calera. Here we 239 meet the lateral railway in the Aconcagua Valley, connecting the town of Los Andes, at the foot of the mountains, with Valparaiso. The Aconcagua Valley is Chile’s gem, a lovely vale where a merry little river, dashing down from crystalline heights, 1s bordered by velvety green hills. We are now in the rich agricultural region which stretches far south to the Bio-Bio Kiver. This and adjoining valleys, the geologists tell us, are the remains of ancient fiords like those we still see in far southern Chile. In ages long past, all this country was a maze of fjords and archipelagoes. In the Tertiary period the Sequoia, mam- moth of the plant world, to-day repre- sented only by our “Big Trees” of Cali- fornia, grew on these Andean slopes. Where the coast range of the Andes dips its feet in the sea Valparaiso, South America’s chief port on the Pacific, rises like an amphitheater from the crescent shore. To me this city has never seemed typ- ically South American or even distinctly Chilean. There are so many Britishers and Chileans of British blood here that the place has much in common with Brit- ish colonial ports. Cochrane and O’Hig- gins, Simpson and O’Brien, are a few of the many British names in Chile’s Hall of Immortals. Ever since the war of inde- pendence, men of their blood have here played star roles. In the late World War thousands of men of British blood left South America to serve in His Majesty’s ROLEeS, BLEVATORS CONNECT THE STREETS OF VALPARAISO Like Hongkong, Valparaiso is formed of a few level streets on land in part re- claimed from the sea, and a residential section on the hills above. Elevators on inclined planes, known_locally as “‘ascen- sors,” connect the streets by the shore with those on the heights. These lifts are the first objects in the. port to claim the traveler’s attention and the ones that dwell longest in his memory. They are operated in the open, all day long and far into the night, lifting and lowering thousands. The view from one of these nearly perpendicular inclines, of 240 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE LONGSHOREMEN OF VALPARAISO Noted for his powerful physique, the brawny, bare-legged voto shades his head with a white cloth in oriental fashion. . Photographs by Harriet Chatters Aaams A WOMAN STREET-CAR CONDUCTOR OF VALPARAISO When, many years ago, the men of Chile went to war, women were first employed as street-car conductors. So efficiently did they fill the position that they were retained after the emergency had passed. A LONGITUDINAL JOURNEY THROUGH CHILE town, harbor, and encircling hills, is not unlike that other wonderful view from the peak above Hongkong. VALPARAISO IS WAGING A WINNING BATTLE WITH THE SEA The harbor of Valparaiso is called a bay by courtesy. It is almost an open roadstead. The traveler is impressed with the stupendous work, still in progress, for protecting the shore from the terrific in- roads of the sea. At the season of tem- porals the surf dashes in with relentless fury, tearing down the massive masonry of the seawall and devastating the water- front; but bulwarking against the enemy goes on untiringly and in time the port will win. A norther sweeping in is a mighty spec- tacle to behold. I prefer to watch it from the shore. We've slipped from Valparaiso, With the Norther at our heels. Well do I remember it! It was just at the beginning of one of these storms: The passage from shore to ship was made in a rowboat. A mountain of undulating water towered on either side of our frail craft, and only miraculously, on the crest of the wave, did we land, at last, limp and drenched, on the heaving ship’s deck. The ship could not hold anchor, and it was with a prayer of thanksgiving that we beat toward the south. I am often asked what interested me most in Chile. Were I a materialist, I might say “the food.” In no other part of the globe is food at the leading restau- rants better than in the south temperate cities of Valparaiso, Santiago, Buenos Aires, and Montevideo. Valparaiso’s market is stocked with ex- cellent meat—beef from Argentina, fat- Peco imy @lile, veal irom Aderra del Fuego; sea food from cold southern waters; fresh-water fish from snow-fed streams; dairy products from the south- ern German colony; vegetables from central Chilean valleys. With tropical fruit from Ecuador, native wine of the best quality, delicious sweets in the form of fruit and sugar paste, augmented by almost any imported delicacy you may de- sire, J dare not recommend certain of these restaurants to friends of increasing girth. 241 y Harriet Chalmers Adams A NEWSBOY OF VALPARAISO Pp otograp Unlike Buenos Aires, where many of the newsboys are of Italian blood, the Chilean urchin is distinctly Chileno. ‘The first daily newspaper in the country, El Mecurio, was es- tablished in Valparaiso in 1827. It exists to- day. There are now 550 publications in Chile. Chilean sea food, known as mariscos, deserves special mention. Mussels and oysters come from beds off the island of Chiloé and lobsters, of unusual size, from the islands of Juan Fernandez. ROBINSON CRUSOE’S ISLE FAMOUS FOR ITS LOBSTERS Mas-a-Tierra, the largest of the Juan Fernandez group of three islands, lying 360 miles southwest of Valparaiso, is Robinson Crusoe’s isle. It was here, in 1704, that Alexander Selkirk, a Scottish CAISN-SEVEERS AT sailor, was dropped ashore from an Eng- lish galley at his own request. If we are to believe his biographers, it was a clear casevot Mii ‘Captains stop: the ship. I want to get off and walk.” Selkirk had dreamed of shipwreck and yearned for terra firma. Defoe, in writing his famous story, made the West Indian island of Tobago the setting for his hero’s adventures, 1n- stead of the Chilean island, where Selkirk lived for more than four years. Besides Selkirk and the lobsters-of-re- nown Juan Fernandez has its unique chonta palms, now becoming rare, and other semi-tropic flora. Before the axe of thoughtless man felled many of the great trees, there was a forest of sandal- wood, far removed from its native habitat. Valparaiso must have been lively in 1849, when my pioneer forefathers were trailing to California across the plains and round the Horn. It was then the em- porium of trade with the newly opened gold-fields and a free port, where ships could bring in goods to be held in bond, paying only a small duty on transship- ment. The bread of the California miners was made from Chilean flour. A RAILROAD STATION THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Richard B. Hoit IN’ CENTRAL ICH HUE The situation of Santiago, Chile’s cap- ital, nearly 1,800 feet above the sea, is most attractive, ranking in beauty among South American cities second only after Rio de Janeiro and mating La Paz, Are- quipa, and Caracas. SANTIAGO’S SUBLIME PANORAMA Come with me at the sunset hour to the summit of Santa Lucia, that singular hill of volcanic origin in the heart of the city, where Pedro de Valdivia, the real con- querer of Chile, built his first defense against the natives. This once barren knoll, 400 feet above the plain, has been transformed into a hanging garden. Over its tree-tops we look down on the great city of half a million souls—a city of low buildings and checker-board streets set in emerald meadows and encompassed by snowy mountains. Only at our own Mount Rainier have I seen flower-span- eled fields and snow-draped crests in such close proximity. Now, as the sun sets, the jagged An- dean peaks, towering above purpling slopes, are aflame. It is a sublime pano- rama. A LONGITUDINAL JOURNEY THROUGH CHILE 245 In this part of Chile are many mountains whose summits can be won by Alpine en- thusiasts. The view of green fields, blue ocean, and surround- ing ranges from one Gf ftitese: crests 1s worth the most strenu- ous climb. Californian poppies blow- ing in the breeze, Arching blue of heavens, curving blue of seas, Line on line of mountains, HISING "Crest on. crest Steeped in golden sun- shine, Chile at its best. Mount Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas, just across the line in Argentina, Wears its eternal snow- Helmer Aviators crossing the Andes fly past the volcano Tu- pungato. Up to the time of my writing, eight bird- men and one bird-woman have successfully dared the Transandine flight. Five were Chilean, two French, one Argentine, one’ Italian. There have been a number of unsuccessful attempts and two of the avia- tors lost their lives. Since this is the IN Crusoe, is on the uzez sed ) notdyyok? ne yaks : dane y7 d,s. t be i Photograph from Harriet Chalmers Adams MEMORY OF ROBINSON CRUSOE This memorial slab to Alexander Selkirk, immortalized as Robinson largest of the Juan Fernandez group of islands. lying 260 miles southwest of Valparaiso. Here, in 1704, Selkirk, a story of my journey Scottish sailor, was dropped ashore, at his own request, from an through Chile from English galley. tip to tip, we cannot linger in the capital, but must entrain again at Santiago, once more headed south on the longitudinal. We are now in the long agricultural valley between the Coast Range and the Andes. Wheat-fields and vineyards bor- der the track. Stately rows of Lombardy poplars and eucalyptus inclose the fields. At the stations are female fruit-sellers uniformed in white. They have melons for sale—big yellow melons—which, like the grapes, take first rank. Last year a consignment of Chilean fruit—melons, peaches, apples, and grapes—arrived in the port of New York. Some of the melons, weighing seventeen pounds, sold for six dollars each. At the same time, Chile was importing oranges and lemons from California. Ripe olives, for which California is noted, have long been a product of Chile. We pass Rancagua, a famous battle- ground in the war of independence, to-day the junction with a branch railway lead- ing to a big North American copper prop- erty high up in the mountains. Now come the industrial towns of Talca and Chillan, with many one-story buildings. oyM ‘a]IyD aanyoid Sty, UOT] [IU B F[eY UPY} d1OUT JO JOJONHuUoD ‘PIATP]L, ‘spjoy ude18-pyetouro Aq passeduooua fe) uonendod e sey oseiyuesg \ Ip O1pad 294M “yO ay} JO JOJO oY} Ul yaed-|[ry onbiun yey} “er ‘sopurly P2UMOII-MOUS BY} JO JOO} ay} ye—uonenys SIGNV AHL fO LOOT AHL LV “OOVILNVS suepy Siowyeyy yorsep] wory ydeis0104d ‘dures ysry sty dn yos ‘1rS1 ‘21 Axenaqey wo oSseiuesg pepunoy oT ByURS JO PuIUINs 94} WOT} IpeUt SBA jo Ajneaq Ul OBeTJURG [PATI Solo Moy 244 ‘sopuy oY} ostt puokog ‘]I[IY Sty} UO poyenqs st A1OJCAIOSGG 999][0d PARAIVFT OYJ, “ULSATA ay} FO anjzRYs B A poJUNOULANS ,“[eqGOSLAD URS O1IOD OY} PsLMOY Yoo] aM [eyde uva[IyD oY} JO Jo}yUWID OY} UT yUIUINS B WOIY ‘é OOVILNVS VION'T VINVS WOU SHANV AHL GNV ‘TILH IVAOLSIYO NVS AO MIA POP] “G preyory Aq ydessojoyg AGEKR—> ‘ : Z ae fi Ee j i YG, AM : ‘ é SS MK 245 ‘COgT Ur poyojduiod pue gg/T ur uNnsaq seM sutpiing ey, “UoHonaysup Iyqnq pure soysnf JO pur ‘goueULT ‘SUONLPY USlosO “TOLIIJUT IY} FO syusUZIvdIq VY} JO sadyJo oy} IIe OS[e dJaFF ‘“Wapisaig oyy JO QUpIsot [PIO 94} AOU SI ,"eposuo|T k’],, “BPpoOUOTY kL] op Ofoejeg oy} se UMOUY []4S pur JUL [eUOT}eU 9Yy} JO aIWOY oY} aU ‘voejed SIT, OOVILINVS ASNOH HLIHM NVY’IIHO AHL PdIAIIS OJOY ,Stoysyqng O tld id 246 0 oq O puUcluuisty Ww Ory Ydeasojpoyg RO OOVIINVS “ONIGIIAG TOLlavo 2HHHHHAE.AHQH MG WITT SSIVONOD NVI WIL i : : ‘ FF : = N IO * WOT 247 248 annene’ THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE j Cae " af re © Publishers’ Photo Service MAPOCHO RAILROAD STATION, SANTIAGO Here the passenger from Valparaiso or Los Andes detrains. It takes its name from the river Mapocho, which flows through the city. Industrial growth is slow but certain. Besides possessing raw material for manufac- turing, Chile has unlimited water-power in the Andes for hydro-electric develop- ment. THE CHILEAN COWBOY’S GAME OF ‘““TOPIO”’ From Chillan we drove to a neighboring village to watch the country-folk at play. The Chilean cowboy is less picturesque than his fellow on the other side of the Andes, the Argentine gaucho. His trousers are not as baggy and he is not as gaily bedecked with sil- ver trappings. He is known as the huaso, which means “countryman,” while the little country maid is the huasita. He is a splendid horseman, and his steed is high-spirited, with an Arab strain. His favorite sport is shared by his equine friend. We saw the ancient game of topio. In front of a farmhouse, under the shade trees, were large, solidly built uprights with cross-bars. These elongated hitching - posts play an important role in topio. The horsemen pair by lot and. “line up” im ainontise: the bar. One of the riders presses his horse forward against the bar, crossing and imprisoning the head of his opponent’s mount. At the referee’s call the game is on, and the rider of the imprisoned horse endeavors to free him. The horses are as highly trained as our polo ponies, and, when matched with skillful riders, a single strug- gle may last an hour. In the preliminaries a dozen such contests are simultane- ous, with short rests be- LONG WIN Ae WOURINEY StROUGH CHiivk tween. , that practically all but fs one of the islands | south of the Strait be- i long to Chile. The i largest island of the = group is divided be- | tween Chile and Ar- gentina. PUNTA ARENAS PROS- PERITY BASED ON SHEEP The Chilean city of Punta Arenas, on the mainland facing the Strait, is the metropo- lis of this region; but the Argentine town of Ushuaia, in Tierra del Fuego, is the southernmost perma- nent settlement in the world. From Cape Pilar to Punta Arenas we looked on a virgin country—huge masses of rock, a land suited neither to agricul- turist nor shepherd; but from Punta Arenas on to the Chilean boundary, both sides of the Strait are well adapted to agriculture. For its population, which is about 24,000, Punta Arenas is the most com- mercially successful of all Chilean cities. It owes its recent prosperity to the growth of the sheep industry. Exports to the A LONGITUDINAL JOURNEY THROUGH CHILE United States last sea- son totaled $12,000,- 000. There was also a considerable export of frozen mutton to Great Britain. The earliest naviga- tors passed this point, and Sarmiento’s band, Settling here “im - the sixteenth century, died of starvation. On the site of old Port Fam- ine the Chilean flag was planted in 1843. Yankee sailors and whalers dubbed the forlorn penal colony “Sandy Point” (Punta Arenas ),and the name survived. in the. sixties the first steamship line be- tween Valparaiso and Liverpool was inaugu-. rated, and Punta Are- nas, the most isolated port in South America, came into importance. It is 1,100 miles from Behivas Blanca. tire nearest big port on the Atlantic, and. 1,200 miles from ‘Talca- huano, on the west coast. | At the time of our 263 oe Ve eee ~ : Photograph from Harriet Chalmers Adams MES VASIt, — If} . 1OO4, Punta Arenas was an unpretentious little town of galvanized- 16OllrarOotsS... I.swas struck with the total ONE OF A PASSING RACE During the last years of the nineteenth century and the first fifteen years of this century, the Fuegian Indians, of three different tribes, steadily decreased and are now practically exterminated. This is an Ona woman, weaver of baskets. Tuberculosis and kindred ills of civilization, along with the sheepherder’s deadly rifle, put an end to her tribe (see text, page 273). lack of verdure; the terrific wind-with-an-evil-twist, which threatened to blow one across the Strait, right on down to Cape Horn. Whenever the bell at the end of the long pier tolled, there was great excite- ment. It heralded the. coming of a steamer. Out rushed the cosmopolitan inhabitants of this “tail-end” city, eager for news from home. | Telegraph and wireless finally brought this region, so long cut off by sea and impassable tracts of uncultivated country, in touch with the rest of Chile. he Panama Canal struck Punta Arenas a hard blow. ‘Trade was di- verted. But, in spite of its waning 1m- portance as a port of call, the city con- tinued to thrive. AN IMPORTANT FUR MARKET Turning its eyes from sea to earth, it grew to value its surrounding grazing lands. Sheep ranches multiplied. Motor roads stretched out toward the Argentine pampa ; a steadily increasing fleet of small vessels sailed into the Fuegian channels. s wepy Stolljey yy) JOLIIe PY wolys wi “pure |S] Joys t >» > > | uo ( puno}y Qbe AOVd ‘LXAL AMS) AIIHD TVALNAD NI YV1NdOd ‘OIdOL AO Ss ydeisoj0yg Wei 24 wu QUO YS potvA0D-peoy yyoutureut vSOY} JO 9UuO pulutot GCUYVAHAVAD NVINVONVAV NV Mille Ait y pti §S yey |e } YUM PoUMOID ‘sasSPUIT UIPOOM dT, HIWVD LNAIONV HHL 264 “(Obs oSed ‘}Xo} oS) SJUSWILS UbYs-OovueNS 010M AY} POltod yey} 0} JOLIG “Woy} Jonbuod 0} pols} OYM ‘nio9q 40 SROUT OY} WOIF SuLAvaM pouivo] oyondeyy oy] ‘AajUNOD oY} FO v[dood,, suvotu YyoIyM (‘oyondeyy,, Sadjosusoy} [[ro Ao], “ueafiIy a 40 ‘pserueds 4 se ” oe ‘pout Aq potonbuoosun solinjyuod JOF ‘soursisoqe UeodIoly YING ][[e FO snosoyVA ysou oy} ‘oP Ul SUeIPU, URTUe Ney OOO‘OO! UTeWa1 o104], WTIHD NYAHLAOS “HNOH NVINVONVAV NV i Sue PY S1oOuWU] ey ) Joltaepyy Woy YURisopoyd VOWW0W™™0=(0s, MéijMua«déédslhHlkieie iarrar Vd) ty VI 265 ‘eUUaSIY 0} ssoide Surpuayxa soyxP] JO ley & JO PUOIAS ay} WOT} SaSTI YOIBUOL Pe[O-MOUS SUL, posses suoddiny yo Aynvaq ur [BAIT ‘OUIOS—E JUNOF Sastt xP] oy} SsOIMW “o]FY) UsoYy MOS FO S}UDUII]}JOS UPUTIO*) HOHINONVTI AMVWI NO LNANWTLLAS NVNYAD V ‘SVUVA OLA Od suepy Slowey yolieyy wosy Ydeisojoyd rng SUIAIIY} JO Joquinu e& JO 9UO ST SIU, wae 266 -) A]TARaY 000'000 suepy s SOG AK J OJUEM SL ALV SNOIIYICVIAY OS ‘Ss c JAU]YD JOMAyPT Woy KX WGC ‘c ytoddns spur]-o ydeisojoyd AA SSS \ \\ XQ Injsed onbrun 9 TOuL Iv SOM WON QVC WS ut Auvut JO OA ‘Osonyy | WOOoSs SK SRT XG NSS dp Vito T, UMOUY-9]}41] CIs 94} U dq sey Jouuryo s ‘19Y4}O JY} UO Iq} 0} 9 ‘ pur[ureut ue soainonupienscaansrsteny Bhs ouesquo Ud IIOULY YINOS ay} JO pus oy} ttt i Y Yj j Yo y Wy Wy, Wij Wy Yy Yy tp SN Les “\ dJSOM OYJ, ‘“daoys paossoy a10ys 9u0 UGA 267 268 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Harriet Chalmers Adams SCHOOLBOYS OF OSORNO, IN THE HEART OF A GERMAN COLONY OF CHILE In Osorno, as in other Chilean towns populated by Germans, the children are taught German as well as Spanish. Photograph by Rollo H. Beck WHALEBONE ON THE SHORE NEAR CORRAL Whaling is an industry of southern Chile. It shows indications of increasing importance. One company captured more than 400 whales last season. These great mammals of the deep are said to come nearer the shore here than in other parts of the world. LONGITUDINAL JOURNEY THROUGH CHILE 969 macncpne PUNTA ARENAS, ON THE STRAIT OF MAGELLAN Punta Arenas (Sandy Point), metropolis of the Strait of Magellan region, is on the mainland, facing Tierra del Fuego. POR is WH Photographs from Harriet Chalmers Adams THEY GAVE TIERRA DEL FUEGO ITS NAME _It was the smoke from the campfires of the nomadic Alacaluf Indians that caused their region to be called “Tierra del Fuego” (Land of Fire). The Alacalufs, now practically extinct, wear guanaco-skin garments and anoint their bodies with fish-oil to keep out the cold. ‘YIPAZ VY} YOO[G Uo}JO sayouryeae syJUOW 19}UIM Jy} SuLing ‘TPA UPopuy jve1s oY} e4oId YIYM sjauUN} Josso] AUR PUP d]IWI-OM} oUO YSNo1Y} patssed st SoIly souang 0} osteredjeA wo1y Sulssoid 1ajaAeI} JOIAL IS 0}0Ud ‘ Sioyst [qn d wo 1 ydev 150}0Ug eee ROSY ~ ee AVM'TIVA ANIGNVSNVUL AHL NO TANNOAL V UL, 270 ‘aNyLS OY} JO UOTIOI9 OY} IOF spuNyZ OY} OSIVI OF YOoO}JNpun vysSOd op eV4IOUDG ‘UOTJeMOSSY {S1OYJOPY UeLystAYyD OY} JO Wopisoig sy ‘oyuoAeuog doystq pue vjsoy op vposuy vV1OUdG ‘sourlzUIsIY OM} JO S}ieoy OY} WOT} olUeD YUoUNUOW sy} JO UOIdoIU09 oY J, , FOULIIPIY OY} JSTIYD JO JooF oy} Ve Urlvyzureul OF UJOMS DALY AY} YOIYM oovod oy} Yeo1q of) puw vulyuoory Jo ojdood oy} ueYyy JSNP OUT o[quINAS suUTeJUNOUT dSoy} [J[BYS JOUOOG,, :spvoat onjzeIs oY} JOpuN UONdIIsUT OY], “oUNTy []B JOF ddved doo¥ OF “YNOS AVF OY} JO Soyqndor sojJsts OZ oY} JO UOUULD 9ZUOIG OY} WOIF ysed ‘sapuy dy} JO YSTIYD IY} JO onqrIs oy} SpuRySs dJOFT “BIS JY} DAOGK Joo} OoO*e1 UY} d1OUU ‘ezJET]eds/] FO ssed oy} YSno.s1y} St ‘AvMpIeY oulpuesuRl], sy} FO UOTo]duUI0D dy} 9IOJOq OSN Ul ‘sopuYy oY} JOAO pROI-UOSeM PIO dy, SHGNV GH AO LSIXHO AHL O19q opue way wory yYdersojoyg CK Q\ \\ Wow) ) ASN \ WN \ \ WN ~~ \ SO“ W\ \\ 271 Dol es THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Harriet Chalmers Adams : THE START ACROSS THE ANDES IN WINTER SNOWS The author’s party leaving the train at the Chilean station of Juncal for the start on mule-back over the Andes, at a time when the line was blocked by avalanches. The unbeaten trail, over slippery ledges and through deep snowdrifts, brought the travelers through the two- mile tunnel in the heart of the Andes into Argentina. There was then a second day’s ride over icy wastes to the Argentine railhead where train traffic could be resumed. The metropolis of Magallanes has taken on a pleasing, prosperous air. This has long been an important fur market. Guanaco skins, pampa fox, cor- dillera wolf, white hare from the ice- fields, and muskrat are on sale. Belgian hares, introduced in recent years, have become such a pest that the government has placed a bounty on their heads. In the old days seals, sea-lions, and otters were unmercifully hunted, the seal rookeries to the south eventually being destroyed. The seals used to devour the crabs which, with other shell-fish, swarm Fuegian beaches. The most characteristic animal of the region, the guanaco, is now freed from the fear of the Indian-with-his-arrow, the enemy he has survived; but there is still the sheep ranger’s shotgun. It is a pity that this animal has not been domes- ticated as was its cousin, the llama. Herds of several hundreds of these grace- ful, ruddy, dappled creatures may still be seen occasionally in the interior of Tierra del. Fuego., Wald cattleiede scended from those introduced by early settlers, are found in the mountains. In the eighties there was a rush of miners to this part of the world. The prospector bought a boat instead of a burro and headed into the labyrinth of canals south of the Strait. Gold was to be found in the black beach sands beneath the frowning precipices and in the river beds. The gold fever now has passed, but dredges are still at work. Some of the disappointed miners took to sheep- farming. One of the largest sheep-farming com- panies in the world is located in Punta Arenas, its dividends in the last four years amounting to $14,000,000. There are five canning and freezing plants in this territory. Most of the Chilean sheep-ranges are on the Island of Tierra del Fuego, where the cold climate makes for firm flesh and thick fleece. Were we to marshal the Chilean sheep in one straight line, it APVONGENUDINAL JOURNEY THROUGH '‘CHITE would just about stretch from New York to San Francisco. Besides its sheep-farms and _ placer mines, Chilean Fuego has its coal de- posits, of a rather poor quality, and an abundance of peat which can be used for fuel. Its lakes are all salty, some so rich in pure salt that the deposit is taken out by the spadeful and shipped to Punta Arenas for table use. When these is- lands, the tops of a submerged mountain range, rose from the sea the salt water remaining in the hollows formed lakes. The wind here reaches a terrible ve- locity, being at its worst in the spring (our autumn). Fuego is approximately 1,000 miles farther south than Cape Town, in Africa. The forest is rich in conifers and beeches—a dark, gloomy, dripping for- est, on the whole, yet the haunt of in- numerable beautiful birds. I cannot here name them all. The albatross, penguin, pelican, cormorant, and their like seem at home here; but I! had not expected to find a woodpecker (Ipocrantor magel- lanicus) and a thrush (Turdus magel- lanicus) peculiar to this region, or one of the parrot family so far south. , Great flocks of gorgeous flamingoes arrive from the north, followed by their inseparable companions, the white, black- throated swans. When startled, the flamingoes whirl aloft in a scarlet chain, forming a perfect triangle in the azure sky, and the devoted swans follow. An occasional sight is that of a number of tall wading birds, their legs imprisoned by the freezing of a lake, released only with. the midday thaw. A BLOODY PAGE IN CHILE’S HISTORY In 1904 we still were able to find some of the original Fuegians. The Alacalufs, canoe Indians, used to inhabit the west- ern reaches of the Strait; the Yaghans lived nearer Cape Horn. The Onas were to me the most interesting of the three groups. During the last years of the nineteenth century and the first fifteen years of this century these Fuegians steadily decreased and are now prac- tically exterminated. It is a bloody page in Chile’s history. I am glad that I went there in time to see a little of the Onas, hunters and fishermen of no mean ability, with round, 6p'7 5) 213 smiling, Mongoloid faces, elaborately painted, their hair bobbed. They wore fur caps and guanaco-skin garments, fur side in. Poor souls! They got as far south as the continent permitted, but even then the white man crowded them off! Cape Horn, on Horn Island, is Chilean, the tip end of South America. The cape, rising about 1,400 feet above the sea, withstands the pounding of the tem- pestuous surf. Only about one-third of the days of the year here are free from rain or clouds. Few voyagers see the cape, since ships steer a course well off shore.. Im: southern Tierra del Fuego, mighty glaciers, reaching the sea, slowly break off and form icebergs which float toward Antarctic waters. It is, in truth, the dropping-off place of the Andes. CROSSING THE ANDES IN WINTER We have made three visits to southern Chile. On the last journey, instead of sailing around into the Atlantic, we re- turned to Valparaiso and crossed the Andes via the Transandine -Railroad to Argentina. It was not, however, an un- eventful journey in a Pullman coach, in the season when this trip of 888 miles can be made, very comfortably, in 48 hours.) Winter had set in. Avalanches in the mountains had blocked the road. After many fruitless trips to Los Andes, at the foot of the Cordillera, we at last joined a party of restless pilgrims determined to cross the Andes that very month aboard a valiant mule. We lived to tell the tale. Two long days there were of it be- tween the rail heads on either side of the mountains; two days of scaling icy ledges, plunging through snowdrifts. Our trail lay, not over the old summer wagon-road, past the Christ of the Andes, in the Pass of Uspallata, but through the two-mile railroad tunnel, 10,000 feet above the sea, which connects the sister republics. Chile we left with its snowfields glistening in the sunlight; Argentina we entered in a wild snowstorm. ‘That long, silent ride through a damp, inky, inner world left a deep impression, a feeling of awe of those stupendous heights, those mighty mountains we had followed throughout the length of Chile. ‘punoisyoeq oy} UT UeUT oI]} Aq pasn Mold sartuuid oy} 9J0N “Pd AA -o]pped [jews sty} JO prot} 0} peat} WOT} Suiddays Aq spjoy sty OUT JoyBM SUAN} [TOS oyy JO UOS poyxPeq-suo1}S PL NildWnd WAWUVA ASINVdVE V QTAld-AGaVd SIH OLNI ULVM 9 souof ypif wor ydessojoyd = 1 ‘poysoyo-][[NF ‘pouurys-uspjos sty L, 274 DOME. ASPECTS OF RURAL, JAPAN By WaLttTerR WeEsTOoN AuTHOoR oF “THE GECGRAPHY CF JAPAN,” IN THE National, GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE F ALL the poetic titles applied by () the Japanese in olden times to their land, perhaps the most an- cient was that of Toyo-ashiwara-mizuho- no-kuni, “The fertile, reed-clad country, rich in grain.”’ In this we have the inti- mation that from the earliest ages of the national existence agriculture has been the occupation of the majority of the people and their most fruitful source of livelihood. The sudden emergence of modern Japan from the hermit-like seclusion of former days into the rush of busy inter- course and competition with the Western world has tended to blind the eyes of many observers to that which really forms the basis of its national prosperity. It is only in rural Japan that we gain an insight into the most characteristic fea- tures of the life of the people. The real strength of national organization and the most attractive aspects of the national character cannot be fully appreciated until one passes from the crowded cities and westernized beaten tracks to the fields and farms of one of the most intelligent and friendly peasantries in the world. In spite of the rapid strides made in the manufacturing and mining industries in recent years, agriculture still constitutes the chief source of the wealth and power of the Japanese people. The rural population number sixty per cent of the whole, and it is they who sup- ply the empire with most of its food and with the greater part of its raw materials for manufactures. PRACTICALLY NO MACHINERY USED IN JAPANESE FARMING There are few large landed proprietors, and a feature of agriculture is the tillage of small holdings. This is carried on by the whole of the farmer’s household. The land does really belong to him, for the popular idea that both the peasantry and their fields are property of the Emperor is a mere legal fiction, and it is no wonder, therefore, that the man “on the land” works as few peasants in the world have ever been known to work. Only about twelve per cent of the whole area of Japan is cultivable, and even this is not naturally very fertile. It is only made to yield its utmost by the most minute and careful system of subsoil working, manuring, terracing, and irriga- tion, and these are carried on with a thor- oughness that almost suggests gardening rather than farming. There is practically no machinery em- ployed and nearly all the work is done by hand, hoe and spade, helped out at times bysthetox or theshorse. [it 1s im the task of their subjugation of the land to the service of man that the best characteris- tics of the Japanese people have been de- veloped—their boundless patience and perseverance, their intelligence, ingenuity, and self-control, their tough constitutions and temperate habits. PEASANTS MAKE EXCEPTIONAL SOLDIERS Some of the finest fighting men in the army are drawn from the peasant classes—hardy, stolid, and entirely un- afflicted with nerves. Most of them come from the hill country, and their surround- ings have left their impress on their char- acter and habits. It was remarked by British officers dur- ing the Russo-Japanese War that, in dis- tricts where long marches had to be made over routes chiefly leading along goat- tracks or across pathless gullies and crags, each man having to find his own way and to meet his company again on the other side, it was the native mountaineering habitudes of the lower ranks that led them to take the best possible line of country. In mountain warfare the hillmen among the Japanese infantry displayed—as com- pared with other infantry—some of the attributes and mobility of cavalry. More- over, there is something in the open and communistic character of the daily life of the country people (for to them privacy is an unknown condition) that renders 275 76 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE mh i”. \ Photograph from Publishers’ Photo Service THE TEA-PICKERS OF JAPAN WEAR LONG SLEEVELETS OR GLOVES TO KEEP THEIR HANDS AND ARMS FROM BEING SCRATCHED them natural and considerate and pro- motes a resourcefulness and readiness to help each other that must be experienced to be understood. It is among such as these that one finds human nature most unsophisticated and unspoilt, nor has all that 1s artificial and materialistic in our vaunted twentieth- century civilization yet laid a paralyzing hand upon that inborn simplicity and courteous bearing which in days gone by did so much to justify the title by which the Japanese delighted that their land should be known—Kunshi no Koku— “The Country of Gentlemen.” One of the most striking features of the countryside, to one who wanders out from the crowded life of the great towns, is the extraordinary and minute care with which the hills, rising abruptly, as most of them do, from the alluvial plains and the seashore, are terraced from base to summut, wherever a single ear of rice or corn can be made to grow, the resultant landscape resembling nothing so much as a gigantic chessboard decked in yellows, gold, and greens of every shade. What makes these agricultural achieve- ments the more astonishing is the fact that they are attained with the most prim- itive of instruments, for the peasantry are the most conservative class in the na- tion. The whole of their agricultural sys- tem was borrowed from China nearly two SOME ASPECTS OF RURAL JAPAN Ss Photograph from EF. Gertrude Beasley GATHERING LEAVES FOR FUEL SEEMS TO BE A CONGENIAL OCCUPATION IN JAPAN thousand years ago and has known prac- tically no change. The plow they use is that of the Egyptians of the days of Pharaohs, and spade, hoe, sickle, harrow, and flail differ but little from those of their instructors. The wagon and the wheelbarrow are almost unknown. Of all the ancient and popular festivals of Japan, those that are celebrated with the greatest zest and enjoyment invaria- bly belong to the life of the countryside and form a standing witness to the pri- meval and paramount significance of agriculture to the entire nation. The so- called “national ones,” dealing with al- leged historical events, are of official ori- gin and nearly all quite modern. Their observance is chiefly confined to the large towns and exercises comparatively slight influence on the popular sentiment or im- agination. To the outer world, these are sufficiently unfamiliar and significant to deserve record by way of illustration. THE FESTIVAL OF THE FOX GODDESS One of the earliest in the year is that of Inari-Sama, the Goddess of Food, at whose gaily decorated shrine services of intercession are held on the first day of the second month (old style)—. e., March—on behalf of a fruitful rice har- vest later in the year. Inari-Sama (about whose sex there is some ambiguity) is sometimes spoken of as the Fox Goddess, ‘SUIARIM OY} UL S]elioj}euT ‘taysAs [eInynoise oy? JO uONR[Ndruew 9y} Woy adeys 419Yy} JOS ynq ‘soulety UO UDAOM JOU sJoYM JOY Pamoliog uedef 19};e] 94} WO ‘Ose sieaM JO spuesnoy} aie AOU, “OCquieq oy} ,‘sosseis jo Apery,, yey} Jo sdtajs popporys wosT posn oasouryd Ajiea pue suendAsy oy} dsoy} dyI] syUsWO]duIT YM yIOM S[1LS pue UdUIOM dy} Aq opeul oie Ssio10qe] 94} Aq UIOM sapeysuNs oJ, jo yunowe Surystuojse ysour ay} saysidurosoe s9uIIey osouerdef oy], SLOOHS HOI ONILNWIdSNVUL YALVM NI SHANM YWIHHL OL dn HAL NOW HLIM Las ANVYI V HONOYHL AO ONIHSAYHL tureu*y *y, Aq sydeisojoyg "hs et Te ae ee » ee SSS ee eee ~ Ss a, SS) CR AN 278 ‘SpJoY 911 oly UT Juods Arp v J9};e oUOY ‘pooM UO sI Jan} JO} DdUNpUddap SUIUINJaI Uses aie SunoA pue pjO atoffY ‘ssodons wv ssoUTsNq Ss, AWIL] Jory oY} Inq ‘spuryst oy} Ul pourluE st [roo sUIOG ‘“pyoyasnoy Jersoduut osouvdef oy} ayeur 0} Arvssaoou st ATE} 911VUo dy} JO UOTeIId00D YT, oY} PUL 9}e}S JY} 0} SsuO|aq ULdef JO vaie jso10F OY} J[eY-IUO ATIvaN WdIu AVULS V LIS SHIGVG HHL FO ANO CNV WIHLOW AHL ONINUNG SHUI AHNOH AHL diy OL 1meu‘y ‘yy Aq sydeisojoyg 279 280 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE HAPPY BECAUSE THE NEW CROP WILL SOON BE IN The Japanese farmer’s devices for cultivating the soil are curious in their primitiveness. The picture shows the wooden spade used for turning up the soil. The remainder of the cultivation will probably be done with a heavy single- bladed hoe for digging, a three-prong hoe for breaking the soil, and other queer home- made things, such as sickles and pruning-hooks with straight handles and curved blades set at right angles. SPHotonea abe Ome fe “Gertrude Beasley “THE PLOWMAN HOMEWARD PLODS HIS WEARY WAY” SOME ASPECTS OF RURAL JAPAN 281 Yy, | Y Photograph from Jill Jones MILADY’S SILK FROCK IN ITS TRULY EMBRYONIC SAGE 5) “The honorable little gentleman,’ to the annual income of the Mikado’s people. as the Japanese call the silk-worm, contributes $100,000,000 During the period of its intensive cultivation its voracious appetite keeps whole households busy satisfying its mulberry-leaf needs. and is commonly identified with her serv- ant the fox. In view of the all-importance of rice to the whole nation, it is natural that this divinity should be held in such honor, not to say dread, and we find that these festal gatherings partake of the nature of a com- bination of communion, eucharist, and love-feast. Papers stamped with the pic- ture of a fox are pasted on cottage doors as charms of exceptional potency. This animal is credited with super- natural powers of bewitchment, and the belief in Kitsune tsuki — “‘Fox-posses- sion’”—is very real and widespread. It belongs to a class of folk-lore and super- stition of which little is known outside their own country, and but half acknowl- edged by the educated Japanese them- selves, though it is of much psychological and scientific interest to the student and the medical man. HONOR FOR THE POWERFUL RIVER GODDESS Japan is one of the most richly watered countries in the world, and as nearly every swift-flowing river and impetuous mountain torrent has its own presiding divinity, we are not surprised to find them credited with power to hurt or help the lands through which their waters pass. | In districts lable to damage through inundations, services of intercession are held in the third month, our April, at popular shrines like those of the River Goddess of Kofu, in the broad and fertile plain of Koshu, in central Japan. The goddess is taken out for an airing in her sacred car and earnest supplica- tions are addressed to her for the pro- tection of the fields and farms of the peasantry in the coming days when, with the melting of the winter snows and the storms of early summer and autumn, the myriad mountain torrents swell the parent rivers on their resistless course through the cultivated plains to their wide and populated deltas at the sea. The month of May sees the country- side under its brightest, busiest, and most varied aspects, and in all its activities 282 nearly every one, old or young, has his or her part to play. Barley, wheat, and (especially ) millet are ripening and “‘hon- orable” tea is now ready to be picked. The grains enumerated are the real staple food of the rural districts, for though all, who can, live on rice, most of the peasantry, especially in the remoter parts, cannot afford to do so and only indulge in it on high days and holidays or in cases of sickness. A friend of mine tells me of an old lady whom he heard remark of a sick neighbor in a country hamlet, with a grave shake of the head: “What! do you mean to say that it has come to giving her rice?” In other words, “The poor thing must be in a bad way!” SUPPLICATION IS MADE TO GOD OF HAIL- STORMS The chief festival of this season is that of the God of Hailstorms, and many an anxious farmer in the silk-producing dis- tricts in the great inland provinces of Shinano and Kai then visits the ancient village shrine to pray for the preserva- tion of his precious mulberry trees from the dread scourge. Strangely enough, however, these trees are said to be almost immune from light- ning, and there is a popular belief that a man caught in the open in a thunder- storm has only to call out “kuwabara’— 1. e., “mulberry grove’—1in order to sur- round himself with the prophylactic prop- . erties of that valued object and so avert the threatened danger. The Christian Japanese farmer can read with sympathetic interest the story of the plague of hail in Exodus ix, where we learn that “the flax and the barley was smitten: for the barley was in the ear and the fiax was boiled” (1. e., in bud). Nearly every article of food and do- mestic utility 1s committed to the care of its own guardian divinity, and a Japanese writer has observed that, if the interests of the peasantry are not protected by un- seen powers, it is not for want of earnest supplications addressed to them at all seasons and for every possible boon de- sired. Of special significance is the festival of the rice harvest, with its twin observ- ances (like those of the ancient Hebrews) of the offering of the first fruits—in the THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE middle of October—known as Kanname- sai, with its complement in the Niimame- sai, on the 23d of November, when the Emperor tastes the new rice that has just been presented at the holiest of all the shrines of Japan—that of the Im- perial Ancestors at Ise—at the climax of the ingathering. The former of these festivals is an essentially popular one, and the best of the precious grain is presented at thou- sands of village altars throughout the length and breadth of the land. Close by these, on the stages which are usually found at the side of the most ancient shrines and erected for the pur- pose, a pantomimic dance, known as O Kagura—“The Seat of the Gods’”—is then performed to entertain the guardian divinity in grateful acknowledgment of his kindly care, a thought which is further impressed on the children them- selves by the closing of the schools, in order to set them free to keep the festi- val with innocent gaiety. The arrangements which enable neigh- boring villages to hold their celebrations on different days, like those in English country parishes at harvest-tide, and so to share their mutual rejoicings, make for a friendly community of interest and neighborly good feeling. EBISU IS THE DEAF GOD AMONG JAPAN’S EIGHT. MILLION DIVINITIES There is one other festival which is highly popular with the peasantry in late autumn, that of Ebisu, the God of Honest Hard Work, as well as of Wealth. This is kept with twofold energy, partly be- cause all desire to be rich and partly be- cause, on the basis of “sympathetic magic,” it is felt that one who controls the gift of prosperity should naturally be courted with every sign of merriment and enjoyment of the good things of life. At this festival, in the Province of Ku, when the procession bearing the appro- priate offerings approaches the shrine the village head-man calls out in a loud voice, “According to our annual custom, let us all laugh” ; to which exhortation a hearty response is given. The reason given for this is that Ebisu alone of all the eight million divinities has not gone to visit the great Shinto shrine in Izumo on the annual holiday toe PIiCchLuURESOUERZSIDE GE JAPANESE, LIFE Photograph from Professor David M. Robinson THE CHINESE GATE LEADING TO THE MAUSOLEUM OF ITYEMITSU AT NIKKO Figures of storks, a white dragon set upon golden waves, and the heads of lions surrounded by arabesques and friezes of chrysanthemums, peonies, pines, bamboos, and birds are among the ornate carvings which distin- guish this famous Kara-mon as one of the most beautiful gates in Japan. More than six acres of gold leaf were used in gilding the shrines of the sacred city of Nikko, impressive memorials of the pomp and glory of Japan’s Yedo period. ——— — ‘OpeylY 2y2 JO sjoolqns uoljius usAVs ueYy. v10WL AG poMo]|oF aie s}daoaid ogous ysotud ayy yo AtOWewW dy2 0} 29ngia e& ut aedionied 0} s1idwy ssourdef[ ay. Jo 19U109 AIDAD WIOI] pa|quiosse ‘wsIyppng nysulyg jo sapunoy Ainjuso yJUsIaI ITY ‘UTUOYG-URIUIYS JO s1OMO]]O} pues “hoy? paipuny suo UeY? ero UsYM AINvaq pue AlIUWIIOS a[qeqliosapul Jo AUOUIIIID SNOIsI[aI1 sIy} JO 9uDdds ay seM OJOAY Ur sJduay, 1f-uemBu0F] poumouos 91, J, NVdvVI NI GTHH YAAA SSVIN LSTIHAGNG LSALVAUD AHL GAVUAVIN WOTOD OIdOOSOCIATVY ANV dINOd TVDAY OIOW RYE 1YSOAl Aq yudeizoio eS iy my 4q ¥ Ud seat ABLE E '¢ woeegorcy hah spite ayneay dis YOR 1 “OUIPU OULLS od JO juods UBIO \/ oy Wolf A|jeoipes Sto ftp 69S4N09 O ‘yt SOtUes JPeEQIOOT wv St YT IIL ‘puNnOIsyoeG 9YI UL AOJRJDOdS poqoJ-1opUdAK] OU JO PKoyY dU} DAOGK IIe UL USIU ps Avur Suoojeq Ao. ev Buljquuosad ‘|7RC : [[FQ100f EU OM 'f Joeq ; peq I [ 24} fo f { 9Y ' {oIY p ; oy, “Ose sivoA puersnoy? v uryy sow urdr| ul Jvyndod svm yorym oujsed v BUlATAdI o1v sioAvid poy osoyy ‘AYP IOULIOJ & JO SOUINYSOD [NJ1O[OD dy UL pony NAMNHS “ANVS ONO TIVE ASHNVdVE LNAIONV AHL DNIAVId OLOAM JO SAISON d THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Kiyoshi Sakamoto PAYING HOMAGE TO THE MEMORY OF A GREAT JAPANESE POETESS These three little maids are in the room of the Ishiyama Temple where the noted woman writer, Murasaki Shikibu, wrote one of her masterpieces, ‘“Genji Monogatari,” a classic romance, more than nine hundred years ago. For some reason the fireflies are larger in the vicinity of this temple than in any other region of Japan. IV tHb LiCtuRESOUE SIDE, OF JAPANESE LIFE SSS Photosraph by T. Enami FLOWERS OF JAPAN This chrysanthemum garden in Yokohama provides a charming background for the Geisha quartet garbed in their soft-hued, silk kimonas. The “shimada”’ coiffure is usually a badge of the unmarried woman among the Japanese. While the roof of this greenhouse is of glass, the chrysanthemum fancier frequently uses inexpensive oil-paper to protect his blossoms from the frost. V THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Kiyoshi Sakamoto YOUNG JAPAN IN NEW YEAR’S REGALIA The love of flowers and a highly developed sense for color values, strikingly indicated in this and other illus- trations of this color series, are among the generally recognized attributes of the idealistic and artistic sides of Japanese life, which are entirely distinct from, and should not be confused with, the social, economic and political phases of life among the people of the Land of the Rising Sun. VI RHE BICTURE SOULE SIDE OF JAPANES Photograph by Kiyoshi Sakamoto A FARMER’S DAUGHTER STOPS TO REST WHILE ON HER WAY TO THE CITY MARKET __ In her hands she holds the doughnut-shaped mat of straw which she uses as a pad when carrying her bundle of fagots on her head. This is not the every-day garb of the farm laborer; she is in her “‘Sunday best,”’ for her fuel must be peddled from house to house in town. VII *QUII] O} SWI} WOIT as1OY 94} OF Zuliv9M st oseied [etuowa199 ay} Aq pastaijays Yoeqosioy UO UPI OUT, Iq pure s]eoH JUS.yIUseUT UIYM ‘OJOA Y 1” Play SI [PAISOF snowy ev JouUINS AIBA LNVaOVd NI ASANVdV! AHL *;e19u93 eB jo dUuINIsOS 9} Ja1eM Saar3 ay ysIyM wor Joddip e spjoy 14311 sty UO JURpUs}Ie 94 TF, ‘ariduiy ay jo jerdes JOULIOF IYI JO $JI9I11s 9Y} IVUANANVS AHL AO SAVG AHL T1VOdd OL LHDOITAGC Ad ydei oud Aq 30} oowRYyeS rysoAlry ioe * VIII Japanese yoshi Sakamoto the it Ancestress of « Photograph by Te less and G } 10 h the Sun ¢ ip wit stor-worsh he Shinto temples \ITH IN PRO ind anc Ip é ssn t HINTON: iture-worsh c oO 5) = Ss oS rat ww D SS oO cP tw O O @D a D ns je S = m, a cult intois the chief deity as > <>) s the meaning of Sh | al House peri ry of the Gods” Im c “The W ‘SOULIYS BY JO SUOISsessod ssojodIud Jsow 947 SZuoule aie ‘A1OJsiY [BdI|GIET JO QUOJsI9UIOD poelo1 ay) pur aIPY S.MOPIAA 9Y1 FY! ‘S9a12 P[O-salinquad asayi ‘Arpoy, ‘sjuejd reps. Zuno< jo spursnoy} uoNneuop sjquiny IvINWeS (YOO JO snuTjal v pey sy Ysnoy] ‘suleqorys oy JO ouG, ‘“suRaU 1194} O} BUIPIOOIe ? ‘ ‘o3eR SOlLIN}JUID 9914) unsoaq 91OM SOULIYS 9So Udy MA SI SP palayoO ay Os ‘9AI3 02 soUO}s sNOIdo1d JOU JOATIS JOU PjOs JoYyIIOU peYy OMMIN LV SHNIYHS FHL AO ANO OL AVMALVS GNVUS AHL c suolngiiuo0s ayeur O21 uedef ynoysnosy2 ‘syaryd jeioulAoid 310 ‘soAwiIed AYI[vaM JY? PdJop1O JUSUIUIDAOS oY SUVGHO NI GHayaMOd UOSUIQGOY ‘Ww piaed JOSSojOle ulolt ydeiz010ug ‘ aS a ‘ojdood siyi JO Joljoq [BSM9AIUN dy} OF Sulpsooov “Yt pus [[eys oy Os 1v9A oy} sulsoq ouo sv sof ‘ACT S.ivaX MoN uo Addey oq pur oa{IlWs 0} salt} pylyo puke ueWOM ‘uvul AIOAGT “vos OY] ‘urde[ JO aso) fsJOqus IvaM pUvTOF] Jo sjuevsvod oy], ‘ssv]s-inoy ue ay1| podeys Wn.Ip ay} s}voq OYyM “Ys ayy OF Aog oy Aq poturdwosov sl OUM IOSuls v’ SI uevy ot Qaim yanoa MUL “OFT] AqD Jo dINTVOT onbsoinqoid vB OTR SIOULCIIOIU9 199.118 ‘UOSPOS IVIN MOK] IATISOJ oy) SuULINp Ajores O} DAT JU99UT Ue PAVE AUVANVE AO HLNOW AddVH AHL NI STAWLSNIW ONITIOULS SLI SVH NVdvf sauof yif wor yderso.ot Il! $Y lc XI *SYDO1 YITM po]|y pue coquieg jo epeul Anal asouvdef v st 14812 9y2 02 J9]eM ay UI yalqo MOT[AA DY, “Is APjoImun uv plvoge s191VM JUI[NqINI 3y} y8noiyi disq e st Zurq19xXe o10Ur Iv} Inq ‘siasuassed Aq posn qyeI2 pauioj0g-1ey ay AOTId OYM UdUT INOF YI Jo [PJs pue Sulep ay2 Aq pal[izy2 UsIeq oavy pu o10AY Ivau apeosed sty YZno1y2 OYs dAvY $}sIINO} Jo spuvsnoy J, WAAR NZOH AHL AO SdIdVU AHL ONINNAA NAWSLAVA yes trysodry Aq ydeisol0ydg Tits wn *UDdSIULVYS OYI]-1vIINS oY} pure sony ‘suinsp Jo quowuedtuoOsov OY} OF soup ory AYA TOY? Surars ‘sroyeur-Arow oy} AULdwoosoe gjss vysiosy Ajjuonboljul JOU pur s{[ly oy} sue sojquies Joy} Ul WY) YIM s}UudUL -naqjsul yeoisnta Woy} Arvo Aoyy, ‘soiqied , oyepnsieypyy,, DANSoF 9ZTULZIO uvdef Jo yjoy BuNOA oY} “|[[ef OY UL SyNUysoYS JOF JUNY voLIOWIY Jo ajdood duno ayi sy OLOAM UVAN STITH AHL ONOWV SIWOOUHSNN AAVGNSLVIA ONTYAHLVOS OVOWULYLS IYSOATY Aq ydeiso1oy XIII THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Phoroeraon by Kiyoshi Sakamoto “THE WILD CHERRY BLOSSOM REPRESENTS THE SPIRIT OF THE TRUE JAPANESE” ““When in spring the trees flower,” sings a poet of old Japan, “‘it is as if fleeciest masses of cloud, faintly tinged by sunset, have floated down from the highest sky to fold themselves about the branches.” XIV Tike PIigLURESOUE SIDE OF ¢APANESE LIFE - Photograph by Kiyoshi Sakamoto THE MATINEE HAS ITS LURE FOR THE JAPANESE MAIDEN AS WELL AS FOR MISS AMERICA These three devotees of the theater are on their way to a performance advertised by the hand-drawn posters seen at the top of the illustration, and the name of the star, Tayu Takemoto Koshiji, is blazoned on the panel at the right. ; XV *100p oyi 1e a sjo90uI 10 1OUUTp 0} UMOP S}IS oy a JAOUIOI [ITM dys YoryM ‘sdeo ysnp pue IOpnog UvoIoUTY 941 JO JUvIIvA [eUalIO 9yI poinsy v sivam ays proy Jay inoqy “Warf? sjloq pue XOq Hore 100 ae jo IZIS out SqIq Oyu! So[qeIasIA Joy sdoys ays ‘UIs NAHOLIN ASHNVdVE V NI NIMdINNd V ONI 1Vdiudd ‘Indauey eut-aid sa1jovid you soop uoddiyy “sly Aqureq o10OWe S Tyso. ydeiz0j0Y J id ‘ Ps $ * > 5 t SOME ASPECTS -OF RURAL JAPAN sacred to them; for he, being deaf, could not hear the summons thither. And so his worshipers seek to cheer him in his loneliness by their own infectious merri- ment. It is a natural instinct of the human heart to feel that this act must be accept- able to the object of its most unfettered rejoicings: “Let us come before His presence with thanksgiving and show ourselves glad in Him with psalms.” JAPAN-PRODUCES 4,000 VARIETIES OF RICE It is impossible to get a clear idea of the life of rural Japan until we realize the all-importance of the rice crop to the nation at large. Two-thirds of the culti- vated land is devoted to it, and no less than 4,000 varieties are produced, while, as we have seen, it is the sowing, trans- planting, and ingathering of it that form the chief occasions of popular solicitude and rejoicing. Until, at the Restoration, in 1868, the Daimyo, the old feudal lords, retired into private life, their incomes were paid in rice, and to-day the peasants pay their rent in the same commodity. Only when we have wandered observ- antly off the beaten tracks and listened to the chance scraps of conversation among the country-folk in the summer months, and heard most of it bearing on the state of the crops and the probable prices ahead, can we appreciate what the pre- cious grain means, even in these days of growing industrialism, to the people of Japan. Japan is not only the third most impor- tant rice-producing country in the world, but its rice stands first in quality. In its cultivation all is carried out according to the strictest rule, with a conservatism born of experience. The sowing, for in- stance, must take place on the 88th day of spring, the first day of which is also New Year’s Day. Before sowing, the seed is soaked in salt water for a week, washed in fresh water, and then dried, after which it is planted in well-watered “nursery” beds. About the end of May it 1s transplanted into “paddy” fields in small bunches about a foot apart, an operation employing hundreds of thousands of men and women knee-deep in water and mud. 299 This is an occasion of great rejoicing and is celebrated with special songs, Known as ta-ue-uta—‘rice-field planting songs.” THE MOST MOMENTOUS PERIOD OF THE YEAR The most momentous period of the whole year, however, comes at the end of August or the beginning of September, when the ni-hyaku-toka draws near—the “two hundred and tenth day’—for it is the ten days which then follow that form the season of intensest anxiety, of min- gled hopes and fears, through which the bulk of the population of Japan passes from year to year. The rice is then ripening fast, and it is a gentle breeze that is urgently needed. although it is just at that precise moment that there is usually the gravest peril threatening, in the dread typhoon, which not only marks the break-up of summer, but incidentally the breaking up of much else. With the ripening of the various crops in their proper seasons and with the birds and countless varieties of insects in which Japan so abounds eager to prey on them, the fields are dotted over with little flags of bamboo and paper inscribed with charms against their depredations. ‘These are called mushi-yoke — “vermin-dispel- lers’—and are bought at shrines of repute all over the country. “nite HONORABLE LITTLE GENTLEMAN — THE SILKWORM Next in importance to rice come the silk and tea industries, which furnish revenues of some $100,000,000 and $25,- 000,000 respectively, silk being produced mainly in central and tea in central and southern Japan. There are many features of peculiar interest connected with the cultivation of silk, of which not the least is the treat- ment of the precious worm itself. It is | popularly called O ko sama—*The honor- able little gentleman’—and during the period of his “intensive cultivation,” mainly the month of August, the satisfac- tion of his voracious appetite keeps whole households occupied day and night, to the exclusion of all else. 300 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE A PORTABLE FESTIVAL SHRINE CARRIED BY JAPANESE LADS Out of the agricultural life of the countryside have grown those festivals which the people celebrate with the greatest zest and enjoyment. Phoueerapls oy Kiyoshi Sakamoto ANCIENT COSTUMES AND THE FLOWER UMBRELLA USED DURING THE AOI FESTIVAL This festival is held every year in honor of the Tokugawa Shoguns, who were for 250 years the de facto ruling power in Japan. The “aoi,” or wild ginger leaf, appears on the crest of the Tokugawa family. SOMMeNSPE Cis vOre RURAL. | ARAN The leaf-strewn trays, arranged in tiers, fill nearly every room in the house, and the sound of the ceaseless nibbling of the countless myriads is precisely that of the scratching of a thousand pens in the great hall of a college or university on an ex- amination day. | It is believed that any harsh or noisy, ill-bred conduct on the part of persons within earshot of the little creature will seriously affect the quality of the silk pro- duced. SUGARLESS TEA Of tea, the national beverage of Japan (drunk always without sugar or milk), we cannot speak in detail. Like most good things in Japan, it was introduced from China about 800 A. D., and for one thousand years its use was almost con- fined to the aristocracy and the court. It is picked after three years’ growth of the plant and is nearly all consumed in the country, with the exception of some fifty million pounds exported to Canada and the United States. Not the least interesting of one’s ac- quaintances in rural Japan is the country policeman —ever ready to act, when meeded, as guide, philosopher, and friend—upon his lonely beat. Some years ago he received the following counsels from police headquarters for the benefit of the unsophisticated of the country- side, the unconscious humor of some of these admonitions suggesting that the person who drafted them did so some- what feelingly : “No criticisms should be made, either by gesture or words, regarding the lan- guage, attire, or actions of foreigners. “Foreigners are most sensitive regard- ing cruelty to animals; therefore special attention should be given to this matter. “Tf a foreigner pulls out his watch and 301 looks at it, you should think that he has business elsewhere, and that it is time for you to leave. “Tt is a mistake to suppose that a for- eigner will always respond to a request for a loan of money.” During one of my explorations in the Japanese Alps I met a little policeman— the exact circumstances need not now be specified—who insisted on sharing my little room in the primitive hut where we spent several nights. He also insisted on sleeping on the floor, underneath my hammock, which I had slung to a con- venient beam in the roof. And yet when I chanced to roll out during my sleep he made no further reference to this start- ling interruption than to murmur a word of polite apology: “O jama wo itashima- shita!”—*“T am so sorry to have been in your honorable way!” At the close of the paper contributed to THE Grocrapuic for July, 1921, I spoke of the strange contrasts that may often be met with in modern Japan and which cause one almost to rub one’s eyes and ask whether we are living in the twentieth century or the tenth. Since those words were written a curi- ous illustration of this has come to my knowledge. Near the famous Naval Yard of Kure, in southern Japan, a ceremony was recently held for the souls of de- parter bullocks! One hundred oxen, gaily garlanded, were led in solemn array to one of the chief Buddhist temples, where suitable prayers were said on be- half of their departed comrades. This was followed by instruction in the Bud- dhist scriptures, and finally they were given a grand feast by their masters, who apologized for all the unkind things they had done to them! A mile away Japan was building one of the biggest battleships in the world! © Harris & Ewing ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL 1847—1922 SCIENTIST PATRIOT EDUCATOR The Board of Trustees of the National Geographic Society, with profound regret, announces to the membership the death of Dr. Alexander Graham Bell, a founder, former president, and senior trustee of The Society. Dr. Bell died at Baddeck, Nova Scotia, August 2, 1922. GILBERT GROSVENOR, President. MAP-CHANGING MEDICINE By WILi1AM JosEPH SHOWALTER “Tur CouNTRIES OF THE CARIBBEAN,”’ “REDEEMING THE Tropics,” “How tHE Wor tp Is Fep,” ‘“‘“EXPLORING THE GLORIES OF THE FIRMAMENT,”’ ETC., IN THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE AUTHOR OF “THE PANAMA CANAL,” HREE announcements of almost unprecedented import to mankind are expected to be made at no dis- tant date. The first of these, chronologically, at. least, will be that yellow fever has at last been banished from the face of the earth, and that the germ which causes it has be- come extinct, along with the dinosaur, the dodo, the great auk, and the passenger pigeon. The next in order will probably be that hookworm disease, which has been called “a handmaiden of poverty, an associate of crime and degeneracy, a destroyer of energy and vitality, a menace and an ob- stacle to all that makes for civilization,” and which is endemic in a zone that em- braces half of the earth’s population, can be driven from any community which has the will to get rid of it. Last, but not least in importance, will come the statement that large-scale dem- onstrations have proved that malaria can be eradicated from almost any community that has enough vital force left to push a thorough, though inexpensive, campaign for its extirpation. These history-making announcements are safely forecast by an examination of developments in the world-wide warfare on disease being waged by the sanitarians of the world under the leadership of such agencies and institutions as the United States Public Health Service, the health departments of the several States, the British Schools of Tropical Medicine, the India Office, the Dutch Institute for Trgpical Medicine, and the French Insti- fh Acotonial Medicine. PREVENTIVE MEDICINES GREAT VICTORY In all the stirring story of man’s effort to make himself master of his environ- ment, there is not a more thrilling chapter than that which tells of the bitter battles he has waged for the conquest of con- tagion, and of the ground he has won in his struggle with his relentless and in- numerable, though invisible, foes. 303 The World War served to demonstrate that the tyranny of the pathogenic or disease-producing germ can be conquered. Straining every nerve for victory, the nations that faced the foe from Bagdad to Bruges had to make sure that epidemic disease should not attack the firing line from the rear. Consequently, half-way and temporizing methods were taboo and preventive medicine had free reign. REMARKABLE CONTROL OF EPIDEMICS DURING THE WORLD WAR The results were amazing. Although never before in human history was there such an intermingling of peoples, such a crossing and recrossing of seas, such an invitation to contagion to spread to the ends of the earth, only one epidemic suc- ceeded in breaking the barriers erected by the sanitarians. | And as if to emphasize man’s power to master the major contagions, not one of those with which the world’s public health officials were familiar escaped from the regions where it was endemic, while in- fluenza, which was a stranger, broke away and swept over the face of the earth. India was a hotbed of smallpox. Nine millions of its population were vaccinated, without a single death therefrom, and the disease no longer threatened that land’s participation in the war. The Philippines contained enough cases of the same scourge to set the whole world aflame. Millions were vaccinated there, again without the death of a single per- son, and smallpox disappeared. ‘Typhus. likewise, was practically held to lands where it existed before the outbreak of hostilities. Conditions in the trenches were such that the battle lines of France might well. have become an inferno of infection; but preventive medicine stepped in and held typhoid fever, malaria, and other commu- nicable diseases in check in a way that was startlingly effective. It was natural, therefore, that when peace came again the lessons of preven- 304 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 2, Photograph by Earle Harrison BOYS OF WESTERN MARYLAND, WHERE A GREAT HEALTH BATTLE IS TO BE WAGED Washington County, Maryland, of which Hagerstown is the county seat, is about to be made the greatest field laboratory for preventive medicine in the world. It is a typical, prosperous American community of sixty thousand, equally divided between rural and urban population. The agencies supporting the work will investigate all epidemics, frame rules for their elimination, provide a staff of visiting nurses, and cooperate with the local physicians to make this the country’s model of what a community should be in matters of health. so eo MAP-CHANGING MEDICINE 305 FGGiST THINGS WN THE SOUTH USING THE ELEPHANT TO ADVERTISE GOOD HEALTH IN LEE.COUNTY, MISSISSIPPI After the people of this county saw the benefit of “unhooking the hookworm,” they decided to wage war on infectious diseases in general. Even the circus elephant was pressed into service to proclaim the importance of the campaign. tion and sanitation learned during the World War should have driven them- selves home in the minds of those who think in terms of world welfare. ‘Taught that epidemic diseases, which plainly con- stitute the major menace to civilization in peace times, can be mastered, the sani- tarians threw themselves into the fray with redoubled energy. Casting about in the early days for the best pathogenic foe to attack in a great after-the-war campaign for international health, many of these agencies decided to concentrate on hookworm disease. For here was a human ailment sapping the strength of hundreds of millions of peo- ple throughout the frostless belt of the earth—a principal cause, indeed, of their individual and collective exhaustion. No other disease is as easily cured. The demonstration both of its cause and elimination was amazingly simple: a dose, say, of Epsom salts, a dose of thymol, another dose of salts, followed by the elimination of scores and even hundreds of life-sapping worms. The effect on the patient was so benefi- cent that he who ran might note it; the result to every community in which the work was undertaken was that the public acclaimed its success, and made ready to carry the campaign forward with its own funds; the outcome was that, having be- gun a war on the hookworm, communi- ties gradually found it worth while to ex- tend the campaign to other forms of in- fection, and to sanitation in general. Tetrachloride of carbon, a simple and popular “cleaner,” has recently been tried with marked success as a substitute for thymol, but whether it will become the favored vermifuge in hookworm removal depends on further tests. HALF THE PEOPLE ON EARTH LIVE IN THE HOOKWORM ZONE Reaching as far north as the latitude of Nashville, Tennessee, and Osaka, Japan, AnG@wase fat soutiaas «that or » Valdivia. Chile, and Wellington, New Zealand, the hookworm zone of the earth embraces more than half its population. ‘SIOPUOM PdIyIOM IOMYOOFT ‘S1O}SIOUR ALDY} FO IJOSIA JY} FO ysOU }soy pey Ady} [Hun ApyeyA soy} FO TO} SuIseaouN Ss} YOO} IUOJOD JO Ulesys Joind v osoyMOU ST d19q J, Apeaaye sey woy} Suoure UOr}eIIpeto UL. UOIJIOJUT WAOMYOOY JOA SYyINOG oy} JO SowYM UTe}UNOW oy} Suo spuy ou0 UeY} POoTG URIIIOUITY [e . . VIDYOID NI AWOH NIVINOOW V uoSsLiieEy apres Aq ydeisojyoyd - MAP-CHANGING MEDICINE It is within this zone that most of the world’s backward peoples live, and there is much ground for saying that perhaps the chief part of their backwardness is due to the cumulative effect of the dis- ease—physical, economic, intellectual, and moral—upon the race. More serious, indeed, than the high mortality rate among individuals of the living generation is the accumulating de- terioration of the race, due to poverty and its consequences, transmitted to future generations. When operating in conjunction with that other microscopic monster, the ma- laria germ, the hookworm is doubly an evil, and both diseases reach their highest development in the same environment— the hot, damp regions of the earth. The malady caused by the hookworm is one of the most serious of the disabling afflictions to which mankind is subject. It affects fundamentally the welfare of humanity over vast and populous regions, lowering the victims’ resistance to other infections, dulling the mind, sapping the strength. Its effects express themselves in stunted mental and physical growth and lead to degeneracy and decay. With its onset insidiously gradual, it is far less spectacular than smallpox or yel- low fever; but the deaths directly or in- directly traceable to it are higher in per- centage than those traceable to almost any other disease except tuberculosis. As a slow-acting cultivator making the hu- man system a fertile field for the grim sowers of fatal infections, it is, perhaps, with the exception of malaria, the world’s outstanding malady. MAKING THE HOOKWORM PREACH SANITATION Yet, owing to the fact that its every stage is so well known, that the methods of combating it are so dramatically ef- fective, and that those who are cured so quickly begin to experience the joys of living once more, it makes itself the most readily and successfully used of all dis- eases with which to point a community toward a goal of better health. As stated previously, a dose of Epsom salts, castor oil, or other purgative, a dose of the oil of thyme, or chenopodium (the former from a plant that grows in our 307 gardens, and the latter from one that is a cousin of the common lamb’s quarter), followed by another dose of Epsom salts—and presto! scores and hundreds of small worms are expelled from the svstem and may be exhibited before the victim’s eyes. Presently the erstwhile victim, relieved of the inexorable board bill of vitality which his hundreds of sponging guests forced him to pay, begins to feel his “pep” returning, his strength coming back, and his whole life being transformed from a dragging existence into a quick-stepping, energetic activity. These dramatic results, widely attained, constitute such a convincing “before” and “after” exhibit that doubting Thomas himself is made to believe, and even the backward community that still doubts the efficacy of vaccination against smallpox, that still pooh-poohs the value of water- purification against typhoid, that still be- lieves tuberculosis is hereditary and not infectious, becomes a center of enthusi- asm for hookworm-control. SEED THAT HAS BEEN WELL SOWN The hookworm, therefore, lends itself admirably to the cause of community sanitation, as the entering wedge through which the shackles of fogeyism are broken, and through which an opening is made for that faith and codperation which is the very foundation stone of preventive medicine. To-day those Southern States’ commu- nities whose health organizations took up the anti-hookworm war have the satisfac- tion of knowing that hookworm disease has been greatly reduced, both in severity and prevalence; that the people have been enlightened as to.1ts importance, its relief, and the means of its final control; that permanent agencies committed to its elim- ination have been rooted in the soil; and that a sustaining public sentiment has been created in the interest of more gen- eral measures for the better protection of the public health. Through the spirit of health progress thus created, legislative appropriations for public health purposes in the South have increased more than 500 per cent during the past decade; full-time county health organizations are being developed; and, 308 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE fATORIO f TRATAMIENTO CRAT?S} SIs AN OFF DAY AT A NICARAGUAN HOOKWORM LABORATORY Any one who has traveled through tropical countries can appreciate what a vast need there is for freeing the millions of people who dwell in the hot lands from the health- sapping, strength-draining dominion of the hookworm. MAP-CHANGING MEDICINE 309 Photograph from the Philippine Bureau of Science AN OUTPOST IN THE WORLD WAR AGAINST THE HOOKWORM: LAS PINAS, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS American altruism goes to the ends of the earth to offer freedom from infectious diseases to those who will accept its help and guidance. through a tax-supported health service, state and local, the certain outcome will be the final and complete control of hook- worm and other preventable diseases. How rapidly general sanitation has moved forward in the Southern States under the stimulation of the war against the hookworm is shown by the fact that there are now approximately 131 counties in twelve States which have full-time health departments. In Virginia the number of cases of typhoid fever was cut from 14,398 in 1909 £0 2,493 in 19020. Fhe -reduction of the death rate from typhoid fever registered for three years in North Carolina, applied to the United States, would mean an an- nual saving of 13,000 lives. A VAST TASK STILL AHEAD The widespread incidence of hookworm disease is shown by the fact that three out of five persons examined in China have it, three out of four of those in Siam, and five out of eight in various parts of India. It is estimated that two- thirds of the 45,000,000 people of Bengal have the disease, and that more than one- half of the 300,000,000 inhabitants of India are victims of it. similar conditions prevail in Brazil, Colombia, Central America, the West Indies, and elsewhere, and if one were to reckon up the total number of the people of the earth who labor under the hook- worm handicap it would probably be four or five times as many as there are in- habitants of the United States. UNHOOKING THE HOOKWORM In its campaign against the hookworm, one agency prepared, and lends to the various communities fighting disease, a motion-picture film which, with a full ap- preciation of human interest, it has named. “Unhooking the Hookworm.” The hatch- ing of the egg, the creature's penetration of the human body, its progress through the blood, lungs, and throat to the diges- tive tract, its parasitic role, and its propa- gation are set forth vividly by micro-pho- tographic pictures and ingenious animated sasino ULM} 9 yousurg **« ‘snyd<} puke xodyjetus yo peod dt} JARs} 0} PoIIOJ SuLoq say} Aep-O], ‘syuRpGeyUL s.yytRo oy} FO FTeY uodn {Jo} AAvoy vB WYN x) puke zud’T "yO peat = at vee me y air pue punois SuipyatA Ayjenpess oie Ayiuewny Fo paras, savy ‘puey ‘Wl puey Suryposeut ‘aseastp W4IOMAOOY pure erieypeyy IS ‘INNAVHOMd LV AOV'TVd TVAON AHL * 310 “SULIOMYOOY JOGiey OYM dsoy} Suowe Q ‘OUY SUTPOOF WR J,, ‘AVS JAI P[NOD MF TOF SULIOMYOOY otf} JSuUIeSe IBM dy} 91OJOq YNOG uvo J,, pue ,punoie pue dn oq 0} se og SUIATT JO AOL IO AOGIA [LUN AO TeoIsAyd OU ST d19IT * ee dy} JO SUONOS UVJUNOWW oY} UT YYLoy suo ynoqe Ambul 0} stamsue yensn oy} o19M _UTeTdWOd 4 ec ‘ 9 66 ” HLOAOS HHL NI AWOH NIVINOOW V uosLIe Py apres Aq YdRAsoO or L c l lc Y \ ie \ Yo Yyy Bil A WEST INDIAN NEGRO WOMAN WHO IS PROUD OF HER HEALTH CERTIFICATE designs, successive scenes illustrating the causes of soil pollution, the process of 1n- fection, the symptoms of the disease, the methods of treatment, the results of cure, and the need of sanitary precaution. The film is being exhibited to-day under some twenty different flags. SUCCESS GREATER THAN WAS ANTICIPATED For a long time it was believed that hookworm disease could not be reduced to a stage where it would be harmless, with- out completely successful efforts to pre- vent soil pollution. Resurveys of various areas in the South, in Porto Rico, and elsewhere, where com- munity treatments had been administered, showed a gratifying reduction in the per- THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE centage of people infected, but not enough to promise the extirpation of the ‘disease. 3ut, on a reexamination of those pre- viously treated, the percentage, based on the number of worms found, was shown to be vastly lower than the percentage of those completely free from the invaders. Richmond County, Virginia, where the war on the hookworm as a world-wide fight had its inception, stands out as an example of what may be accomplished and as an evidence that it can be accom- plished with much less difficulty than was formerly supposed. When the work began there, about thir- teen years ago, 82 per cent of the people had the disease. A few years later a re- survey showed that this had been reduced to 25 per cent). A more’ recent mesmumen reduced it to 2\per cent, and in 19220it can be announced that there is not a single person in the entire county in whose body the worms are numerous enough to pro- duce any of the symptoms of the malady. THE WAYS OF THE NECATOR There are two kinds of hookworms that invade the human body, an Old World species known as Ancylostoma duodenale and the “New World” form known as Necator americanus. ‘The latter was described by Dr. Charles Wardell Stiles in 1902, and it was through his efforts that the South first came to realize the great drawback under which it had to labor as a result of the prevalence of the disease. Some years ago specimens of the “American” species were found in Africa, and it is believed that it was imported to America with negroes, in the days of the African slave trade. It is interesting to note that the negro is far less susceptible to the disease than either the white man or the Indian, just as both the malaria and the yellow-fever mosquito show a preference for biting white folks. In British Honduras, in Barbados, and in other communities where large black populations live, the whites and the In- dians are found to be much more sus- ceptible to its attack than the negroes, both in the number of worms found and in the effect on the individual. The New World species of hookworm is a small parasitic creature about as thick as an ordinary pin and half as long. MAP-CHANGING MEDICINE 313 The adult female worm, inhabiting the small intestine, lays thousands of eggs daily. After these pass out of the body they hatch within one or two days. They are microscopic in size when hatched and never grow larger as long as they remain in the ground. GETTING’ A “MOUTH HOLD” Then comes along a pair of bare feet or hands, or some other part of the body touches the infected ground, and the little villains make the most of their oppor- tunity. They promptly begin to bore their way through the skin, causing a severe irritation known as “sround teh i Once under the skin, they travel through the tissues until they come to the lymphatic system, and thence into the blood. Finally, after passing through the heart and lungs, they reach the throat and pass thence through the stomach, ultimately landing in the small intestine, to whose wall they fasten themselves, and for as much as seven years, if not dis- turbed by treatment, take their fill of the victim’s blood and intestinal tissue. They develop in their salivary glands a substance that has a marked power of in- hibiting coagulation of the blood. At- taching themselves to the surface of the intestinal wall, rasping and sucking away the delicate inner cells on which they feed, they lay bare the deeper tissues, and the wound continues to bleed for a long time, even after the worm has deserted the spot to which it was attached. But they go even further than that. By some method not well understood, they cause the blood to undergo a change, re- ducing the amount of hemoglobin—the element that makes us red-blooded, and which constitutes the ingredient that tends to render healthy blood an unfertile soil for the seeds of infection sown there through lack of sanitation. It has been found that in severe cases of hookworm infection as much as go per cent of the red coloring matter of the blood is de- stroyed, and that the number of red cor- puscles—the hod-carriers of the human system—may be cut down 50 per cent. MASTERING THE MALARIA GERM Even more insidious than the hook- worm, and not so dramatically eradicable, is the microscopic animal that causes ma- FOND OF CASTOR OIL One of the dispensers in Ceylon administer- ing a dose of castor oil before giving oil of chenopodium, in the treatment for hookworm infection. This photograph was labeled “A Thirsty Soul.” Many of the natives are par- ticularly fond of castor oil. laria. In the language of the lamented Osler, “cholera kills its thousands ; plague, in its bad years, its hundreds of thou- sands; yellow fever, hookworm disease, pneumonia, and tuberculosis are all terri- bly destructive, some only in the tropics, others in more temperate regions as well; but malaria is to-day, as it were, a disease to which the word pandemic is applicable. In this country and in Europe its ravages have lessened enormously during the past century, but in the tropics it is everywhere present, the greatest single foe of the white man.” 314 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE HOOKWORM WARFARE IN CEYLON The man to the physician’s left is a “Kangany,” who secures laborers for the estate on which he is employed and acts as foreman. He has brought his recruits to the dispensary for hookworm elimination. He knows it pays to have healthy workmen. MAP-CHANGING MEDICINE DED -A ROW OF HOOKWORM VICTIMS IN CEYLON All of these Tamil babies, some of them less than a year old, have the disease. Man of the Sea ever rode his victiin harder than do these intestinal leeches. harbor them never attain a vigorous adulthood. If yellow fever can point to pre- Columbian civilizations destroyed by it, and if hookworm disease can lay claim to being a strong factor in making back- ward that half of the world’s people who dwell within the frostless latitudes, ma- laria can offer evidence that it has helped to make Africa the Dark Continent, that it was largely responsible for the passing of the “glory that was Greece and the grandeur that was Rome,” and that today it lays a heavy hand upon the eight hun- dred millions of people who dwell within areas where it 1s endemic. In India alone 1,300,000 people die annually of malaria and 100,000,000 more suffer from its attacks. All over the world, wherever anoph- eline mosquitoes dwell, the “‘ague” is a menace which slays its thousands, renders the bodies of its tens of thousands happy hunting grounds for other pathogenic in- ee and makes its millions less efficient and useful. It was Major Ronald Ross, the distin- guished British army surgeon, who was finally able to pin the crime of spreading malaria on the anopheline mosquito. Fourteen hundred years before Ross’s day those winged villains were under suspicion, and the literature of the dis- ease contains many unsupported charges against them. At length Laveran found the tiny eel-like parasite, which, swim- ming through the blood, attacks and breaks up the red corpuscles and causes malaria. No Old ‘The children who Then Ross undertook to find out how it got there. After discussing the sub- ject with Sir Patrick Manson, he set out for his regimental post at Secunderabad, India. He began to dissect mosquitoes under the microscope. Week after week he conducted his search for the malarial germ in the insect’s tissues without result. THE MOSQUITO THAT REVEALED THE SECRET Finally, he had two remaining mos- quitoes. ‘Taking one of these, he searched it out part by part, but with intense dis- appointment, until he came to the “wee beastie’s’ stomach. ‘There, with his high-. power microscope, he found some black specks. He recognized them as the pig- ment of the malaria germ. After gaining this clue, exhausted, he slept for an hour. Coming back to his work, he used a stronger salt solution in his dissecting operations, and lo, the contents of the pigmented cells no longer, consisted of clear fluid, but a multitude of thread-like bodies, which, on the rupture of the par- ent cell, were poured into the body-cavity of the insect! From there they entered the salivary | glands, and from these reached the blood of the person bitten by the mosquito. In his story of his work Ross exclaims: “Never in our dreams had we imagined so wonderful a tale as this.” Under his leadership, Ismailia, on the Suez Canal, with 8,000 population, set to ‘SUIIOS ADADJ-MOTJIA FO IJOAIAUOD JY} SB Papue!q Ayyenjadiod aq 0} puryuru Aq poouayuas SPM pynaspf pitiuwobayg puke snuiy}syT oY} UO Jeno poaoid vueaepyy Ul poAo[dula spoyjaw oy} ysv] Ie ynq ‘uotuldo o1qnd Jo 44no0d 9Y} Ut JOAR} S}I Ul JOIPIOA V SuruUTM OF JIU A]JsnoseSuep oes pure ‘euieued 3e [elI} MoU B Ponds ‘eqng Ul payo1Auod ‘oyMbsou JOAIJ-MOTDA IL, VINVNVd “IIH NOONV WOW ALIO VNVNVd AO GNA NYXIHIUON AHL ANV ‘TIOAIL THL0H “TVLIdSOH NOONV JO MAUIA V JdIAIaS OJOY ,Sseysyqnd O 316 ‘sordoat oy} UT UOHv UNS [ediorunu UL Aup Mou v Suryavte snyy ‘sypodosau puvyst oy} wWoay JaAdJ MOTLOA poystueq pue SUOHVSYSOAUL TOAQ}-MOTPON SUOISSTLULUOD, POO OY} JO SuOSSo] oY} PoTTdde ATPENdIo9 ‘poo AA [vssuor) AQ poysoddns ‘sess04) JoOUO[OD Jey} Joy SeM 4] YOUUVH AHL ANOAWA STTIH AHL WOW NAS SV ‘Vand ‘VNVAVH dO ALIO AHL uosuoyY YOMepoatyy Aq ydeisoyoyd \ x S WS \ \< \« R’?##HR AAs \ \ \\ \\ \ CAs CCX \ ‘ SAS . UC QQ WY89. aw 317 ‘UMO S}I [[Vo UD JL puNO’S OU Sey MOU JIA} MOTJAA FEY} INST dy} YA ‘opursD) OY oY} 0} Joyenby oy} wos} ‘satsjzuNod JayjO pasidsur sey saioys 41dy} Woy oasvastp oY} PAOCIP pue VOHLNITS JQAIJ-MOTJOA OY} PoyoVe suvstopendsy IY} YOM YIM UWOHNPOset oy], YOdVNOA “TINOVAVND AO YOdUVH AHL NI HOH “f { paeyory Aq ydessooy i Ae si ane mm * ”y * 218 MAP-CHANGING MEDICINE work to free itself from malaria. It suc- ceeded so brilliantly that the disease was entirely wiped out. Panama and a hundred other places have been largely freed from malaria by the application of the principles for its control developed by Ross and his co- workers. In Italy, under Celli, the war against it brought down the number of deaths it caused from 28,000 in 1888 to less than 2,000 in 1910. In the district of Klang, in the Federated Malay States, Watson succeeded in reducing the number of hos- pital cases of malaria occurring annually from 334 in IgOI to 12 in 1g06. In the Dutch East Indies the. Department of Public Works at Sibolga succeeded, through its anti-malaria campaign, in driving down the annual mortality rate from 79 out of every thousand people in FOEZ tO=1S im 1920. SIMPLE MEASURES REQUIRED But preventive measures that will com- mend themselves to the communities that need them most must be at once extremely simple and very inexpensive—much more so than those employed at Panama and Suez. The sanitarians who are striving to re- lease the peoples of the earth from the merciless sway of malaria realize this, and many of them have joined forces for the formulation of a program for making any community safe against malaria. This has taken the form of large-scale, com- munity-wide experiments in some of our own Southern States. The anopheline mosquito is essentially a rural resident, in contrast to the yellow- fever carrier, which prefers an urban situation. Therefore the malaria problem, in the main, has become, under conditions of modern sanitation, a matter to be dealt with mainly by small towns, villages, and country districts. With this in mind, a group of villages and countrysides was selected where the various methods of combating the mal- ady would be tested, in some places em- ploying one method, in others another, and in still other communities a combina- tion of two or three, or even of all known methods. O19 It was demonstrated in many towns and villages in Arkansas and Mississippi thateinoml 75.10 O05 per cent on the ma- laria in a community can be eradicated at an outlay of from 45 cents to $1.00 per capita. So successful were these demon- strations that in I91g a conference com- posed of the United States Public Health authorities, members of State boards of health, the directors of the International Health Board, and local health officials decided to make concerted demonstrations in fifty-two towns in ten Southern States in 1920. 3 THE MOSQUITO BANISHED The results were astonishing. At an average cost of 78 cents per capita, these fifty-two communities, which had been hot-beds of malarial infection, were largely freed from the disease. Furthermore, by-products of the cam- paign were community pride, popular education in sanitation, and widespread interest in health problems. The measures employed were: simple drainage, filling pits and shallow pools, channeling streams, clearing the margins of streams and ponds, removing obstruc- tions, turning in the sunlight, oiling, en- listing the service of the top minnow, and administering quinine. In Hinds County, Mississippi, in a countryside campaign, oil and the top minnow were used. They cut out 77 per cent of the cases of the disease at a per capita cost of $2.60 in 1919 and $3.09 in O20: The top minnow, Gambusia affinis, the female of which is two-thirds as large as a man’s little finger, and the male half as big, proved to be such a wonderful anni- hilator of baby Anopheles that it is con- sidered superior to oil in most cases. These minnows have voracious appe- tites, and the baby mosquitoes are the piece de résistance of their daily dinner. In some waters they are able to eliminate go per cent of all the malarial mosquitoes before these reach the flying age. 7 There are some waters where oil can be used to better advantage than top min- nows, but in most cases the little fish are masters of the situation. The fish are inefficient where the banks of the pond or stream are overgrown with vegetation. Here the pasturing of cattle 320 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE i“ a By Bhotoerapn by T. Maler, cour MAYA RUINS AT PALENQUE, MEXICO tesy Peabody Museum of Harvard University In pre-Columbian days the civilizations in Mexico and Central America reached a high state and then died out. Records recently translated show that terrible epidemics occurred. One affliction was known as the when-the-buzzards-entered-the-house disease—an eloquent portrayal of an epidemic so fatal that there were none left to bury the dead. Yellow fever or smallpox is believed: to have been the malady thus described. MAP-CHANGING MEDICINE O21 "il Photograph by Sumner W. Matteson AZTEC RUINS NEAR MITLA, MEXICO Mexico entered into the yellow-fever campaign last year and Brazil inaugurated vigorous warfare on the few remaining sources of infection in that country. These were the last lands where the disease existed. The ruins at Mitla are believed to be mute witnesses to civilizations conquered by the yellow-fever germ (see text, pages 326-327). helps the situation. It opens up all the water area to the passage of the fish and the latter make the most of their oppor- tunity. IT COSTS ONLY ONE-FOURTH AS MUCH TO GET RID OF MALARIA AS TO KEEP IT In six Arkansas towns where malaria control has continued for four years, it has been found that the cost of the disease to the community is four times as great as the cost of banishing it. In Hamburg, Arkansas, the number of visits paid by, doctors to malarial patients fell from 2,312 in 1916 to 59 in 1918 and to practically nothing-in 1921. It has been well known that the ma- larial parasite cannot live in the presence of quinine in the blood. Experiments on a large scale in Mississippi have demon- strated that ten grains of that drug a day for eight weeks kill the parasites in go per cent of the cases treated. Under these large-scale demonstrations the world has had the way pointed out through which it may rid itself of one of humanity's greatest foes—an enemy which, unmastered, annually slays more victims than even the World War claimed in any twelve months. In the world-wide crusade for the con- quest of contagion inaugurated after the close of the World War, yellow fever stood out as an insolent foe that had been defeated in organized warfare, but that had now resorted to sniping and bush- whacking in tropical America and Africa. How finally to drive it beyond the bounds of civilization and into the land of extinction became the thought of one of the world’s leading sanitary organizations. General William C. Gorgas, who had been the Nemesis of the Yellow Jack at Havana and Panama, was induced to head a board whose mission was to run down that disease to its lair and to stamp it out forever. It was while General Gorgas was en route to Africa, to extirpate the O22 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE os # Photograph by Alexander Stewart A DENTIST AT WORK IN SHANTUNG PROVINCE, CHINA No contribution that Western civilization can make to China can surpass that which it is making in establishing a medical school where health leaders can be trained. sources of infection there, that he died in London, at a time when he might almost have realized his life’s dream of “writing the last chapter of the history of yellow Leven After Major Walter Reed and his fel- low-workers in Cuba had demonstrated that yellow fever is a mosquito-borne dis- ease, General Wood and Colonel Gorgas, by following the principles laid down by Reed, banished it from Cuba; Colonel Gorgas drove it out of Panama; Doctor Oswaldo Cruz eliminated it from Rio de Janeiro, and Doctor Liceaga exterminated ne ina Wieea (Cra: But there still remained a few places that served as seed-beds of the disease, against which the world had to quaran- tine constantly. One of these was Guaya- quil, Ecuador, and there were others in Yucatan, Guatemala, and elsewhere. Fach time a person left one of these communities there was a “fifty-fifty” chance that he carried the possibilities of a big epidemic in his blood. ° GUAYAQUIL THROWS OFF ITS CHAINS Yet there was no way for the outside world to step in and throttle the disease in its endemic haunts unless invited by the governments in whose territories they existed. Finally Guayaquil, awake to the new spirit of international cooperation for MAP-CHANGING MEDICINE ss) TESTIMONIALS OF NATIVE PHYSICIANS IN CHENGTU, CHINA making the world safe from the domina- tion of the Huns of contagion, invited the foremost sanitarians of North America to codperate with the municipality in a final drive for the extermination of the malady. The invitation was accepted, and Amer- ican, Latin, and Nipponese fought shoul- der to shoulder in a stirring battle for the last stronghold of Yellow Jack, with the result that in less than a year’s time the last case of yellow fever was cured; and in less than two years all danger of its recurrence was past. For the first time in three-quarters of a century Guayaquil was a port against which the world no longer needed to set up the bars of quarantine. Guayaquil’s resolution to rid itself of the Old Man of the Sea of disease, that had sat astride its neck for the better part of a century, had another and a far- reaching result. The city’s spirited co- operation made it possible to stage a thorough bacteriological campaign for the definite identification of the invisible foe that causes yellow fever, and, following its identification, to make a serum that would defeat the efforts of the micro- scopic creature to perpetuate itself. Hitherto it had succeeded in eluding the most unrelenting quest for it. The bac- teriologists knew that it passed from the blood of a yellow-fever patient into the bill of a female Stegomyia mosquito, thence into her stomach, where it was in- cubated, and thence again through her bill into the blood of a well person, where it multiplied and caused yellow fever. But it was too elusive for microscopic or filter detection, and only through the finest work that had ever been done in a laboratory could science hope to find it. The man selected for the task of dis- covering it was that Sherlock Holmes of Bacteriadom, Dr. Hideyo Noguchi, the eminent Japanese scientist, now a mem- ber of the staff of the Rockefeller Insti-. tute for Medical Research. He went to Guayaquil to cooperate with the local bacteriologists, and soon they were hot on the trail of the elusive little sniper. Using a system of “dark-field illumina- tion,” whereby none of the direct rays of ‘unos prloydA}-1jue oy} se VATPIIHI SB YSOUI[V SI IUIIIBA I9AO}-MO][dA-1UP OUT, H JSUIE.SE UINIOS B ayPur 0} As Bd SEM ]I ‘WIS IDADT-MO][OA oY} poyPOst WpINSON “AG UO YAMA MOTTAA LSNIVOV DONILVNIOOVA ‘I WOIF JJOS S,aUO Sutsevajas yo ssad0id ayy SueISUOWIpP pue ,“jSBaq,, [VII B ST WAOMAOOY oy} yey} euIeUeg ]eANI yo 90Rindod 9} 0} dUIPIAD Ie]NIO SUISUIIG doy st ystdodsorsIU oy, VWVNVd NI NOILVUIS GTI V eo gk 324 MAP-CHANGING MEDICINE light sent from the mirror to illuminate the object can reach the eye, but only the reflected rays that come from the illumi- nated specimen, he was able to peer very deep into the ghostly realms of the in- finitesimal. A LIVING GHOST IN GERMDOM And there, in the droplets of blood from yellow-fever patients, he was able to detect a slim, shadowy, ghost-like, fila- mental, spiral wiggler, almost as eerie as a translucent phantom, twisting and ro- tating its corkscrew-like way through the blood. He then tried to breed this “ghost” of germdom, for if he could do that he could be sure that his eyes had not played him false and caused him to imagine what was not. Having previously studied and cultivated its cousin, the germ of infec- tious jaundice, he was the more readily successful in providing it with an environ- ment which, if not to its taste, was at least according to its necessities. He found that he could grow colonies at will in culture tubes filled with the blood of human beings or of guinea pigs. He could start one colony from another, and then another from that, almost indefi- nitely, thus growing successive genera- tions as definitely as we might grow suc- cessive crops of potatoes. Not only so, but he found that from these cultures, as well as by the direct inoculation of the blood of a yellow-fever patient, he could produce yellow fever in guinea pigs, monkeys, and puppies. Even by an examination of the tissues of the animals taking the disease and a com- parison of these tissues with those of yellow-fever victims he was able to show the identity of symptoms. It therefore became so plain that no one could help seeing that the ghost of the “dark field” was in very truth a micro- scopic monster which, under normal con- ditions, does to death three out of every five people it attacks. Dr. Noguchi named it Leptospira icteroides. SUCCESSFUL VACCINE AND SERUM EVOLVED In his work Dr. Noguchi found that artificially cultivated yellow-fever germs, like those of many other diseases, lose a DES ees 2) great deal of their virus-producing quali- ties, although they are still virile enough to hold their own in the blood against an invasion of more toxic newcomers. With this fact in hand, he developed a serum for the treatment of the disease. Administered within the first four days of the patient’s illness, it has, wherever tried, reduced the percentage of fatalities to a surprising degree. Indeed, while three out of every five yellow-fever patients die where the serum treatment is not used, only one out of ten cases terminates fatally where it is used, the mortality rate being thus cut to one- sixth its former proportions. But Noguchi did not stop with devel- oping a serum. He also undertook to make a vaccine that would render those who used it immune from attack. Bor- rowing a page from the experience of those who made typhoid vaccine, he in- troduced killed cultures of Leptospira icteroides into the body. More than 8,000 people have been vaccinated, and, barring a few who took the disease before the vaccination had time to become ef- fective, there has not been a single case among them, although there have been 700 cases in the same areas among the non-vaccinated. Conservative beyond a layman's com- prehension, Dr. Noguchi refused to claim that he had discovered the yellow-fever germ until he had opportunity to make further investigations and to check up his Guayaquil experiments in other fields. Since then he has gone to Yucatan and elsewhere, and all of the results he ob- tained at Guayaquil have been confirmed. A VICTIM OF OVERSPECIALIZATION It thus comes about that there are four ways by which yellow fever may be com- batted—by ‘eliminating Mrs. Stegomyia fasciata, the deadly lady of the mosquito tribe who carries it from person to per- son; by keeping persons with the disease out of reach of any chance survivors of the mosquito war; by vaccinating the - non-immunes; and by administering se- rum to those who have gotten the disease in spite of all precautions. So successful has been the combina- tion of these methods that it is now be- lieved Leptospira ictcroides has come al- most to the end of its rope. The hour of 326 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE A MOTHER WITH A SICK BABY CONSULTING A “MEDICINE MAN Photograph by Charles Martin ”” : PHILIPPINE ISLANDS “There are many people on the earth who still believe that the snake is the only potent healer; more who still believe in the ‘evil eye’; those who try to get rid of tuberculosis by swallowing a live frog; those who eat fox lungs to improve their ‘wind ” its extinction is thought about ready to strike, and, like the dinosaur, it will die out chiefly because it is a victim of over- specialization. It is believed once to have been an in- habitant of the blood of various rodents ; then some mosquito carried it from ro- dent to man, and it found its new en- vironment so much to its taste that it refused to thrive in its old habitations any longer. It came to be wholly depend- ent on man for its habitat and on the mosquito for its transportation. Elimi- nation of its vehicle of transportation means inevitably its extinction. In the course of their work for the eradication of yellow fever, the sanita- rians find that the employment of surface- swimming minnows is a better way of combatting the mosquito than the use of an oil film on the surface of the water, because less expensive and more constant. (see text, page 330). Hardy, multiplying rapidly, and always seemingly as hungry as wolves, these minnows are able to control the mosquito situation in 85 per cent of the waters in which they are introduced. In 1919 a big epidemic of yellow fever, with more than 3,000 cases, broke out in northern Peru. ‘The lessons learned at Guayaquil were applied to check it. The little top-minnow was put to work and proved an amazingly valuable ally in ban- ishing the disease “from the region. WHEN-THE-BUZZARDS-ENTERED-T HE- HOUSE DISEASE It has been advanced as a theory by students of Central American archeology that yellow fever was responsible for the fall of the highly developed Maya civilization, and that the majestic ruins at Miutla, Palenque, Chichen Itza, Petén, Quirigua, and elsewhere, from Yucatan to Honduras, are eloquent testimonials of Bier: wa MAP-CHANGING MEDICINE the uncontrolled power of yellow fever. In their’ records, for which dates ap- pear to be fixed definitely as far back as the beginning of the Christian Era, the peoples of those times have left evidences of the horrors of yvellow-fever epidemics. In their inscriptions they show the dis- ease to have been one in which the patient vomits blood. They called the malady oc-nat-chucil, meaning the “when-the- buzzards-entered-the-house” disease. When we remember that, even with modern methods of treatment, three out of every five people attacked die, and that in Mava days the treatment consisted of magic instead of medicine, we can very well see how deaths were so numerous and illness so general that the dead could not be buried. And so it has come to pass that sanitary science is able to hold out to humanity a charter of freedom from three of the greatest scourges that have beset man- kind. Nations are beginning to follow the splendid standard raised by Great Britain a half century ago which bears the in- scription, “The people’s health is the su- preme law.” In the Philippines, in Porto Rico, the gospel of good health is America’s fore- most contribution to the inhabitants’ wel- fare. The United States Government has untiringly sought to cuit down the death rate in our dependencies. Throughout the British Empire, in Africa, in India, in tropic seas, British sanitarians have carried the glad tidings of better health. In Indo-China, in Madagascar, French sanitarians, through the Institute of Co- lonial Medicine, have labored with stir- ring success to prevent sickness and cir- cumvent death. In Formosa, Japan has shown how high death rates may be cut down and well-being promoted, even among illiterates. Gradually all the microscopic monsters that have challenged man’s dominion on the earth are being circumvented. Before the days of Jenner, smallpox was the pop- ular disease, as unescapable as measles and whooping cough now. Men are still living who remember when typhus was one of the great scourges of our cities, and who recall the time when a full fifth of the doctors of Ireland died from the clisease. O27 But after all that Western civilization has done for the release of humanity from the terrible scourges that in the past have decimated mankind, there still remains that wonderful one-fifth of the human race we know as China, all but helpless be- fore the onslaught of contagion’s spread. Commerce, as has been well said, ‘car- ries dangerous infections as well as goods and ideas; but China has struggled to combat them with agencies as antiquated as the oxcart and the pony express. The consequence has been that this country has the world’s highest death rate, esti- mated at as much as 40 per thousand, or thirteen million a year. To reduce this terrible toll by bringing the gospel of modern medicine and sani- tation to the vast hordes of people of Chi- nese blood, American altruism has thrown a king’s ransom into the work of medical education in that country. Here and there influences were at work for the bringing of the blessings of mod- ern medical knowledge to the great Asi- atic republic. Missionary societies had labored valiantly against overwhelming odds. Christian missionary societies had supported 317 hospitals, besides many dispensaries. In addition, there were some medical schools maintained by the central and provincial governments, with teaching staffs recruited from students of some of the institutions of Japan. A few rather weak schools were maintained by the mis- sionary activities of America. But all to- gether they constituted only a drop in the bucket compared to China’s needs. “TIE GREEN CITY OF PEKING To-day, thanks to American friendship fomrand raiti: i Cliinawthiers Greem City of Peking” is an accomplished fact. A great medical university, with its faculty recruited from the best institutions of the West, has thrown open its doors, its major aim being to develop in China an adequate corps of trained Chinese physicians and. nurses and to. establish thoroughly equipped hospitals. That university is the Peking Union Medical College. The construction of fif- teen buildings was a sight that interested “young China” very much. The making of uniform sash, door, and window- 328 A HINDU TEMPLE IN THE FIJI ISLANDS AND ITS PRIEST, WHO HAS BECOME AN APOSTLE OF . DISEASE PREVENTION frames, with modern wood-working ma- chinery, naturally amazed a people ac- customed to handwork whose common translation of “identical” is “not very difterent.”’ The institution consists of anatomical, physiological, chemical, and pathological laboratories, a 250-bed hospital, etc. The trustees are chosen by the China Medical Board in cooperation with six missionary societies. It is expected that the nurses trained here will be women, even for the men’s wards.. This is an innovation, as China has never had women nurses for men patients. The change will be made cau- tiously and gradually. Women will be encouraged to enter the school for the study of medicine. THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE In addition to the Peking Union Med- ical College, funds are annually appropri- ated for the improvement of hospitals throughout the country, with a view to providing suitable facilities for the doc- tors turned out by the medical school, and furnishing a demonstration to the people at large of the benefits of modern medical science. With that spirit of progress which seems destined to mold China into one of the future's chief nations, the government and the people have heartily welcomed this new evidence of American friendship and faith. Cordial relations are maintained with the Chinese leaders working in the same fields of medicine and hygiene. The yearly deaths in China now num- ber around 13,000,000. If the death rate that obtains in the United States came to apply in that country, the annual death roll would reach only 4,550,000. Think of a possible saving of more than eight million lives a year! Think of rescuing annually as many people from untimely graves as live in Argentina or Canada, more than live in Belgium, Aus- tralia, or Sweden! Was there ever such a challenge to altruism and science as that ? Although the plan of campaign that ultimately will eliminate the world’s major contagions has been well mapped out, the officers’ training camps, in which the men who are to captain the forces of health in the great drive, have been far from ade- quate. From all parts of the world are coming appeals for trained sanitarians. To meet this condition Johns Hopkins University has established a School of Public Health and Hygiene. Harvard has enlarged its work along similar lines. Columbia has expanded its medical activi- ties, and all the health agencies of the United States are cooperating in the crea- tion of a proper course of instruction in public health leadership. In Canada six medical schools have en- larged their work; in Belgium the Queen Elizabeth Foundation for Medical Re- search has been established; in Brazil the Medical School at Sao Paulo has added hygiene and public health to its curricu- lum. In England five million dollars has been pledged to the University of London and MAP-CHANGING MEDICINE the University College Hospital for the creation of a modern health center in London. Thus it is soon to come about that ade- quately trained public health leaders will be available to officer the health armies that will never relent until the autocracy of contagion is laid low. And what a field for work they have! Among the most backward half of the earth’s population the annual death rate ranges between 30 and 4o per thousand. Among the most progressive fifth it ranges from 15 down to 10 per thousand. The average is around twenty-six. Whether there shall be upward of forty million people dying every year, as at present, or whether this tremendous death toll shall be reduced to less than twenty million, which is what experience in pro- gressive states shows to be an attainable goal, depends mainly on the work of sani- tarians who would end the sway of con- tagion throughout the earth. OPENDNG TH TROPICS TO LHR CAUCASIAN There is another aspect to the interna- tional health situation that challenges at- tention. The most productive half of the earth’s surface lies within parallels of latitude where contagion is most rampant. As humanity expands it must look more and more to the tropics for its food. How fast mankind is expanding few people realize. Mulhall and other statis- ticians tell us that the population of the earth was 650,000,000 when Napoleon had himself proclaimed Emperor, as com- pared with 1,625,000,000 when the World War began. In other words, the popula- tion of the earth expanded two and a half times as much from 1804 to 1914 as it had from the days of Adam to those of Napoleon. With a heavy rainfall to take the place of irrigation, with rich soils, with abun- dant and intense sunshine, the tropics have food-producing potentialities that beggar description. | And sanitation has proven its power to break the domination of the white man’s principal foes there—disease germs. The achievements of sanitary science in promoting the well-being of humanity, o29 GENERAL, GORGAS (AT THE LEFT) IN A GUATEMALAN JUNGLE where it has been applied, tax belief. The natural opportunities for contagion to travel to the ends)or the earth on the wings of humanity’s commerce are legion. A thousand ships sail the seven seas now. where one crossed them four hundred years ago. ‘Ten thousand persons travel by train and automobile now, where one journeyed by caravan in the days before sanitation’s rise. But even in those days, when the human race didn’t go beyond its own neighbor- hood as much in a quarter of a century as present-day civilization does in one week, and when the world had less than one- fifth as many people as it now has—even then all nations were frequently pros- trated by epidemics—terrible, calamitous scourges that filled whole continents with weeping and lamentation. Resistance was useless, for no one knew how to resist. All that could be done was for the sick to bury the dead, and wait disconsolately for the day when the fires of infection would burn themselves out because there was no more fuel. In a single epidemic of black plague, China alone lost enough of its population 22 Miles. To TUPELO, LEE COUNTY THE MODEL HEALTH COUNTY e mes CHEW YOUR FOOD oe MAVE NO GIZZARD FT Fp you a juorte ee ‘mWENTY-TWO MILES TO TUPELO” Congress established a fish hatchery at Tupelo after its Representative in Congress had proved that place to be the center of the universe, on the ground that there the horizon was equidistant everywhere. To-day Lee County, Mississippi, of which Tupelo is the county seat, proclaims that man has _ no gizzard. to fill five rows of graves reaching around the earth. Spreading to Europe, this same epidemic found enough victims to replace every casualty in the World War. But this was no isolated calamity. Now cholera, now smallpox, again the plague, now influenza, starting mayhap in the Orient, would follow the caravans to In- dia, then journey with the religious pil- grims to Mecca, and then scatter to the four corners of Europe, overwhelming the Continent as irresistibly as a mighty flood. Millions of graves, millions of pauperized survivors, millions of desolate homes followed every invasion. If such results grew out of the wander- ings of a few traders and the journeyings of a few religious pilgrims, what would happen to-day were it not that sanitary science has erected barriers everywhere for our protection? To see the death rate of progressive communities reduced to 10 per thousand, in the face of such a vast increase in THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE intercommunity and international inter- course; to see the average life span in America lengthening from 31 to 40 years within four decades—mainly through the work of the sanitarian—is, to those who reflect, a wonderful earnest of the vic- tories of sanitation that are destined to be won in the years that lie immediately ahead. WHERE IGNORANCE REIGNED There are many people on the earth who still believe that the snake is the only potent healer; more who still believe in the “evil eye’ ; those who try to get rid of tuberculosis by swallowing a live frog; those who eat fox lungs to improve their “wind”; those who essay to cure epilepsy by having the patient wear the unwashed shirt of one who died of that malady; some who recommend the curing of goiter by drawing a live snake nine times across the thyroid glands, and whooping cough by feeding the patient boiled mouse meat. Others believe that by rubbing their jaws where hogs rub theirs they will escape the mumps. It is only a few centuries since people contended that the brain was a sponge to keep the heart cool; since Harvey was denounced for saying the heart was the engine that drives the blood through the body. In the days of our great-grand- fathers, people said smallpox vaccination made girls cow-faced, and caused boys to bellow like bulls. Even within the mem- ory of living men, the use of anesthetics was denounced as the work of the Devil, by otherwise sensible people. But to-day, with the number of deaths cut in half wherever the sanitarian holds sway, with the average life lengthened eight or nine years where his advice is lived out, preventive medicine has been vindicated a thousand fold, and the out- look for the future is such as must hearten every thoughtful person and arouse the hope that the grip of the tyrant of con-s tagion on the peoples of the earth is des- tined to be broken, and that as the gener- ations come and go the science of eugenics and the science of preventive medicine will work hand in hand for the develop- ment and maintenance of a better race, inspired by nobler ideals and moving on to a richer destiny. Mor SEI Nos, THE NATIOQNAIL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE COPYRIGHT,1922,.BY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY. WASHINGTON, D. C. ERANSPORTING A> NAVY, PHROUGH WASHINGTON OcToBER, 1922 THE TUNGEES” OF APRICA] INe WAR TIME By FRANK J. Mace, Roy NVR. With Illustrations from Photographs by the Author No single achievement during the World War was distinguished by more bizarre features than the successfully executed undertaking of 28 daring men who transported a “ready-made” navy overland through the wilds of Africa to destroy an enemy flotilla in control of Lake Tanganyika. With the conflict in Europe as the motive background, one of the participants and directors in this amazing adventure recites in his own way here the incidents of a jungle journey which has no counterpart in the history of African exploration—TueE Eprror. POR Yin the summer of 1915 kK J. R. Lee arrived in England from Africa and laid a plan before the authorities that were in session at the British Admiralty. He proposed that the government send, by an overland route across Africa, two small boats to the assistance of the Bel- gian forces on Lake Tanganyika. Lee, having lived in Africa for some years and possessing an intimate knowledge of its geography, offered to act as guide. At first the authorities were inclined to pass over the proposal, so highly impos- sible did it appear; but a special confer- ence was called at the Admiralty, and after the project had been weighed it was decided that a small expedition should be sent. A forlorn hope, surely. But what were the lives of a handful of men thrown in the balance against what might be achieved ? The task of organizing the Naval Africa Expedition, as it was called, was en- trusted to Commander Spicer Simson, R. N., who was given a free hand in the selection of officers and men, 28 all told. He was allowed to choose his crew from any branch of the service. |. R. Lee was given the rank of lieutenant, and other officers with a knowledge of bush life and transport were chosen. A doctor specially skilled in the treatment of trop- ical diseases, and navy gunners with ex- ceptional gunnery records, were also selected. THE SMALLEST EXPEDITION AGAINST THE ENEMY DURING THE WAR This expedition was the smallest sent against the enemy during the war, and, with the exception of the commander, all its members were volunteers. We car- ried no passengers, all officers and men being specialists in their particular lines. It was important that no news of the departure or object of the expedition should leak out and get to the enemy. Consequently, officers and men were put on their honor not to divulge, even to their nearest and dearest, where they were bound nor what was their mission. Two boats were selected, tried, and found suitable. They were 40-foot mo- tor-boats, with 8-foot beams, capable ot doing 18 knots. THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE HOISTING THE NAVAL AFRICA EXPEDITIONS UNION JACK IN THE FIRST CAMP AT FUNGURUME Fungurume, 100 miles beyond Elizabethville, was the railhead in Cecil Rhodes’ “Cape-to- Cairo” project in 1015. journey through the heart of the Dark Continent. Here the expedition detrained the boats and started its grueling During the last seven years the line has been extended to Sankisia (see K-11, Map of Africa Supplement) While preparations were being pushed in England, Lieutenant Lee and I left for Africa on May 22, 1915, going ahead of the main body to select a route across the African bush from the point where the boats would be taken off the train. It was important that a route as free as possible from hills, gorges, etc., yet close to water, should be chosen, as our boats were to be taken over this trail intact, each drawn by a traction engine. Great difficulty was experienced in find- ing a suitable route over which to make our road, owing to the hilly nature of the country, as well as to the long stretches of marshland, the breeding ground of malaria-carrying mosquitoes. But at last a route was selected and thousands of natives were recruited from the adjacent villages and set to work under white supervision literally to carve a passage through the bush. Where slopes were too steep they were leveled down. Bridges, constructed from timber growing on the spot, were thrown across river beds. Giant trees, when blocking our path, were uprooted with dynamite. Rocks and boulders were treated in a similar manner. CARVING A I46-MILE ROAD THROUGH AFRICAN BUSH Our biggest problem was a dried-up gorge, 40 yards wide and about 20 yards deep. This we filled up completely with tree trunks. Thousands of trees were cleared out of the way. The enormity of this task may be appreciated better by the reader when he learns that so dense was the growth of the bush in some sections of the route that it was possible to travel for several days at a time and get only an occasional glimpse of the sky through the tangled foliage overhead. So the 146-mile road- way was pushed ahead, making, as it pro- gressed, an unavoidable climb over a plateau 6,000 feet above sea-level. But to return to our main party and the TRANSPORTING A NAVY THROUGH JUNGLES OF AFRICA WHITE ANT-HILL NEAR ELIZABETHVILLE, BELGIAN CONGO White ants, or termites, are the bane of Central Africa. are 40 feet high, dot many regions. floors and wooden supports of houses. Their clay hills, some of which They cut through leather and wood and eat away the Thousands often sally forth to make a concerted attack on an enemy or to take possession of a human habitation. motor-boats, Mimi and Tou-Tou. ‘They left England on the steamship Llanste- phan Castle on June 12, 1915, for Cape Town. The motor-boats were stowed on deck in specially constructed cradles. At Cape Town they were transferred to rail- way trucks, and after a journey of 2,488 miles they arrived at Elizabethville, in the Belgian Congo. (See Map of Africa, K-12, issued as a supplement with this number of THE GrocrAPHic.) Here the expedition remained a few days, making final arrangements for its trek across country. The members of the expedition were féted by the Belgian populace, who, how- ever, were not a bit optimistic about the outcome of our efforts to reach the lake. Among the sporting fraternity of this township the betting against our getting through was 100 to 1. However, “It’s dogged as does it” was our watchword, “soped} [nyosn SNOIIBA WY} WSN} Osje dALY PUR sJURPGeYUE ALU OOO'TI SP OZIIAID OF PotlOqe, DALY SOTIPUOISSIUE URIS[O “SPYSI] M41~9J9 Pue ‘syUT] F]OSs ‘sz1n09 stud} ‘1972 poyeUILUOp ‘| Suruunis ‘sqnj-yyeq ‘aor se s}AOyUIOD YONS sMOUY pure A1\snpul Sunf ayj ur uorssoidxe [Rorydesrs0as,, B SPA }I ‘O1Ol Ul ‘pro I[Iet oO} JO JUDAPRP Oly IIOJO Joddod zuysiq, eSurzyeyy OY} JO Jo}UOD OY} SI JE MON ‘S|[IYy-JUR asny Aq ‘OSUOD IY} JO UMO} WOO 9} ST af[TAYyJoqezipy OONOD NVIOTNS “TITAN IAGVZITA :’7IVVAN V NI HOIAWAS SNOIDIIYA ONILONGNOD YOLSVd AALLVN 334 TRANSPORTING A NAVY THROUGH JUNGLES OF AFRICA 33 and we left the Belgian town full of hope and bearing the good wishes of the towns- folk, who turned out in force to see us off. In the course of a few days we reached the railhead, and that is where the real business started. ‘The depot was called . Fungurume (midway between Chilongo and Kambove). Here the boats were de- trained, still in their cradles, and mounted on specially constructed carriages fitted with rubber-tired wheels. ALL SUPPLIES CARRIED ON HEADS OF NATIVES In the meantime stores were being sent ahead by native carriers, each boy carry- ing on his head a load weighing about 60 pounds. Provisions, ammunition, and petrol for the motor-boats were all trans- ported in this fashion, our string of na- tive carriers extending in single file for miles. There being no coal in this coun- try, we had to rely on wood chopped en route, stacks of which had been prepared in readiness by the advance party. Writing of native carriers reminds me that it was customary for them to chant or sing as they jogged along. Some of those whose villages had been situated near white settlements had learned Eng- lish hymns in the local mission homes. They had memorized the tune and words, but they had no comprehension of the actual meaning of the words. Imagine, therefore, a crowd of natives on the march, each carrying a load of some 60 pounds on his head, with a prospect of a 30-mile trek under a blazing sun, singing such a hymn as “Now the Laborer’s Task ro Orer About this time we lost our guide and the originator of the expedition, Lieuten- ant Lee, sunstroke and fever obliging him to go to the hospital. By about the middle of August the ex- pedition made a start, with boats and all gear, from Fungurume on the 146-mile journey through the bush, escorted by an armed guard of Askaris (native Belgian soldiers). A detachment with a powerful motor lorry, carrying a supply of provisions, tents, and general camp gear, went ahead to select a suitable spot for camping each evening, to erect tents, and’ to prepare food for the main body following. we Or And so, early in the coolness of an African morning, we turned our backs on civilization and all that it meant, to fade away, but for a short time, we hoped, into the heart of the African bush. However, “coming events cast their shadows before,” and shortly after we got on the move we had a taste of what was in store for us in the way of trouble. Within one hour of leaving Fungurume the wheels of the leading traction engine became embedded in the earthwork and timber of a ford across a small stream, the strength of the ford being insufficient to stand the weight of the engine. Thus two precious days were wasted in getting the engine out of difficulties. I say “precious” days because the rainy season was not far off, and it must be remembered that, once the rainy sea- son starts im’ Central A frica, 1t rains for weeks almost without a break, in solid sheets of water. Small streams become swollen torrents, carrying everything be- fore their mad rush; lower levels become enormous shallow lakes, and all roads and tracks are obliterated. . | In addition to this, one good rainfall would render useless our stacks of wood fuel all along the route. Getting on the move again, we reached Mofia, 14 miles distant. This was not a bad day’s work, considering the diffi- culties. From this point to the native village of Wendi Macosi the roads were fairly good. TRACTION: ENGINES. CAUSE CONSTERNA-— TION AMONG NATIVES Needless to say, the arrival of two iron TMMOmMSters. in the storm Of, OtlG tractors. belching forth smoke, caused consider- able consternation among the natives of this village. ‘They deserted their homes and fled to the bush. But when the chief and his headmen were assured that the engines were harmless, the natives re- turned to their village, and soon came to us, bringing offerings of fruit, vegetables, chickens, and goats. This harpenedl in most of the llsess we passed through, but now and then we encountered a tribe not too kindly dis- posed toward white people. We carried an ample supply of tinned foods; but fresh meat being preferable, we obtained 336 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE WHERE THE REAL WORK BEGAN At Fungurume, the end of the railway and valley gateway to the central African bush, the expedition’s boats were unloaded, still in their traveling cradles, and mounted on rubber- tired carriages. Then began an incredibly laborious trek under a blazing sun. Supplies were forwarded in advance by an army of native carriers. all we wanted for both the members of the expedition and our hordes of native carriers from enormous herds of buck met with from time to time. Wild pig and guinea-fowl were also plentiful and provided satisfactory rations. In a sense, the native chiefs were rather disappointing to the eye. Generally, one looked in vain for the flowing head-dress of gorgeous feathers and the leopard skin slung from brawny shoulders. They were for the most part attired in—well, noth- ing to speak of, except in the case of native personages. SPATS, OPERA HAT, AND PINK SUNSHADE PART OF NATIVE CHIEF'S UNIFORM The prevailing mode among these petty potentates seemed to be obsolete uniforms of all armies. One old chief, I remem- ber, was attired in an old British militia tunic and a pair of spats, his crowning glories being an opera hat and a pink sunshade. I was aware that a big busi- ness in out-of-date uniforms is carried on between traders and these tribes, but the origin of the spats and pink sunshade puzzled me somewhat until I remembered we were in the land of reputed cannibals. After leaving Wendi Macosi we struck some bad spots, but all members of the expedition put their backs into the work, hauling on ropes, bringing in wood, and patching up holes in the road. In fact, they did their best on all occasions, and nothing went amiss. A fine example was set by the com- mander. He went around encouraging his officers and men with a kindly word (and sometimes a curse), and so got things done. ‘Thus, under the pitiless glare of a tropical sun, the race against the coming rains went on. One of our greatest handicaps was lack of water, both for drinking purposes and for the engines. Often for days at a time we went without a wash in order that the engines might have their fill. This may appear to have been no great hardship, but in the tropics a bath is a tonic and means a great deal. On some occasions, too, the water was so muddy that it had TRANSPORTING A NAVY THROUGH JUNGLES OF AFRICA APE CARVING A PASSAGE THROUGH THE AFRICAN BUSH: BRIDGE-BUILDING Blistered by the glare of a tropical sun and tortured by insect pests, the expedition doggedly hewed a 146-mile road over hill and through valley, across river and stream. Slopes too steep to climb were leveled; bridges, constructed of timber growing on the spot, were thrown across river beds; giant trees were dynamited to clear a path. to be strained through mosquito netting before it was fit to drink. Once the engines ran dry. This was a serious matter, and native women from local villages were commandeered to fetch water. They carried it in gourds and jars on their heads from a water-hole eight miles away, and had to make the journey several times before a sufficient supply was procured. That the gentle susceptibilities of white folk may not be unnecessarily aroused by the fact that the native women were “rounded up” to fetch water, it may be said that the work in this country is done by the women of the native villages, while the men loaf—sad yet true. Onward and upward to the top of the plateau the struggle continued, day and night, the noise of our engines rudely gorges were filled in with trunks of trees, and rocks, boulders, and disturbing the slumbers of herds of ele- phants and other denizens of the bush, and driving them from their lairs. BOATS HAULED UPREITI, Witt “CABEES, A DANGEROUS METHOD So steep were some of the slopes that “double banking’’ had to be resorted to. That is to say, owing to one tractor’s being incapable of hauling its load of one boat. the two engines were hitched to one boat. Afterwards both would return to bring up the second boat. Another method used, when the road was too steep and soft for the tractor’s wheels to get a grip, was by “cabling.” The engine would leave its load at the foot som the hill and climb to the top; where a hole would be dug large enough to take the tractor. One end of a wire “(SFE aSed 4x9} des) UNs [erTI0zenNbd dy} Jopun SuidieM wosy speog. dy} JdAIId 0} JAOWa [N}Jssaoonsun ue ur pasn s19A0d urjned1e} ay} 9JON ‘puR] YP] JO S}OVs} SNOWWAOUD OPT S[OAI] JOMO] SUAN} pue ‘spsof pue saspliq AeMe sdooMs ‘sy9IM IOF Sjse] UOseos AUTeI UBILAPY oy} JO} “OATeIOdUIT SPM O]SBF] “JOGUII] PUL YAOA IAL JOY} Ul JULSUS UONILI] OY} JO SPIBYM Vy} Peppsquioa 10 JoYJoSO}[e ABM JARS JOY}IO pueR ‘JYsIOM AAvoY eB Ule}sns 0} Ysnouse Su01js JOU 919M Woy} JO AULT ‘“SpsO} AOALI Je SO] SBA OL YON ‘sanoduMop. |eliojenba Surwo0d ay} ysurese oj sunf oy} YSNoIYy} s9e1 oY} UT WHATY V ONISSOND LVOd GNV ANIONA NOLLOVAL 338 “djoy O} posnjod UduE OALVU oY} ,‘YIOMOSNOY,, JO UO} V SUlod SIT, “SOLUT} [B1OAIS dit} oy} SULBUL JO SUTYJOU YLsNoY, puv sproy roy} uo suvf KAvoy UL YE potdavs Loy], “AVA sopru }YSio opoy-19}eM v WIOIZ A[ddns v YO}oF 0} dN popunos O1IM UIWIOM DATPLU UOISBIZO OUO UC) *S4opfoq Aysaryy oyp soy A[ddns Surysea pue supyuLip Aroyy Suloytiovs AjUoNdosy uout oy} ‘deorpuey shotsas ysour sworrpodxo oy} SVM JoJeM JO YIP] oY, SUNIONG NOILOVUL Hl YOu WTVM dO ONIONS AS ‘ S ae TS X Ma x NY EE Raw. au \ SE HOHQK ee St ao eee : Spin Sa ee Li Pd KLE oie | oe Swe. SRD AEA LON SS ses : mS ; We Vp iy ww Qs WA SSS we ae \ NNN “wy Wij J SSS WSS (‘e1owed dy} JO Adu JO NO SBM ‘JosMEY IY} JO pus UO Je ‘oUTSUD UOT}ILI} oY ,) “jeoq dy} 0} UOI}ONAZSop JULOL JOSMEY UaYOIG & JO}¥ ‘YURG 9Y} JOAO JUBA’ SyLOd oY} SB Pas!otoxd oq OF PE OTES IWIIIYX*] «‘OUTSUI UOT}IVI} VY} 0} JOYJO 9y} ‘pIJIMO] IG OF JOG OY} OF PayoR}e SBA JOSAMLY IIIM BJO Pus 9UQ "AOA FO Ayuajd popraoid neozejd yoojJ-oor'g oY} Woof YII}Z PlVMUMOP IL, ~ MaVUD davVLLS V NMOd SLVOd AHL IO ANO DNIVAMOT 340 TRANSPORTING A NAVY THROUGH JUNGLES OF AFRICA 341 hawser would then be fastened to the boat carriage at the foot of the hill, the other end being fastened to the drum on the traction engine. The drum would be made to revolve, thereby drawing the boat to the top of the slope, the tractor remaining stationary and the hawser coil- ing on the drum. This method was, of course, fraught with risk, as the snapping of a hawser would mean destruction to the boats. FORTY-TWO TREK OXEN REPLACE TRACTION ENGINES When we neared the top of the plateau the nature of the formation of the road made cabling and double banking impos- sible ; cabling, because of the turns in the route, and double banking, because the road was too narrow for the engine to FCI. Trek oxen and a block and tackle were therefore brought into use. . We had three “span,” 42 animals in all (14 fo a “span’’.). Oxen are; of necessity, slow, but of paramount value in pulling great burdens on straight roads, and we got over the turns by the following method : . A stout tree was selected about 20 yards ahead of the spot where the boat stood on its carriage in the trail. A block and tackle—that is, a pulley block with roll- ers, such as is used aboard any ship— was fixed to the tree. One end of the rope was attached to the boat carriage, the other end passed through the pulley block and attached by a cross-bar to the rearmost pair of oxen. The oxen faced downhill, in the opposite direction from and parallel with the boat. All being ready, the native drivers then began laying their long whips on the oxen. ‘The animals strained at the rope, and slowly, bit by bit, the boat was drawn up the hill until almost level with the tree to which the block and tackle were -secured.. The wheels of the boat car- riage were then chocked up, the block and tackle fastened to a tree farther up the hill, and the whole performance re- peated. Thus by a series of tugs and jerks, ac- companied by the cracking of many whips, the gradient was negotiated. The road then becoming straighter, the block and tackle were dispensed with and the oxen actually harnessed to the boats. BIG TREE SAVES WILD ENGINE FROM A PRECIPICE Farther on, the road once more became sufficiently hard for the tractors, and after some heavy work we reached the top of the plateau, 6,400 feet above sea- level, on September 8, 1915. This, however, did not mean that our difficulties were at an end. The down- ward trek from the plateau provided plenty of hard work and many thrills, a great deal of cabling being done in easing the boats down steep slopes. On one oc- casion a traction engine got out of control going down a hill, fortunately running into a huge tree, which prevented it from going over an almost perpendicular bluff several hundred feet high. Again one of the boats slewed across a bridge and stopped only a few feet from the edge, narrowly escaping a fall into the river beneath. Bush fires annoyed us a good deal, and we frequently had to make a hurried shift to avoid being burnt out. Progress now became painfully slow, indeed. Some days we hardly covered a mile, although traveling from 5 o'clock in the morning, through the heat of the day, until 9 o’clock in the evening. The king of the bush, the African lion, showed his resentment of our intrusion upon his domain by long, loud roars during the night, but the glare from the campfire held him at a safe distance. NATIVE VILLAGES WIPED OUT BY SLEEPING SICKNESS A part of our route lay through the areas infested by the tsetse-fly, the car- rier of the dread African scourge, sleep- ing sickness. From time to time we passed through deserted native villages, the inhabitants of which had long been wiped out by this ravaging disease. Although all of us were badly bitten by tsetse-flies, none suffered any ill conse- quences, except by the discomfort and pain caused by the pite. It is like the prick of a red-hot needle. The flies can bite through clothing quite easily, and actually have to be knocked off, it being impossible to shake them clear. O42 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE OXEN HAULING THE BOATS LO Tabor OFA Hint The expedition’s 42 oxen were useless in pulling a heavy burden except on a straight road. Even then it was a laborious process, with much cracking of long whips by the natives and straining and puffing of the animals. As far as possible every precaution was taken to ensure a good bill of health. Water was always boiled and filtered, and each of us took a good dose of quinine each evening to stave off ma- larial fever. Light khaki clothing and tropical sun helmets were worn by all white men. The doctor had a far busier time treating natives and their children than attending to members of the expedition. When they heard of the “Great Medicine Chief,’ the natives flocked from their villages, bringing their sick and lame with them. But the doctor could attend to only a few, as his supply of hospital requisites was limited. I will not go into any more details of that memorable bush trek. After long days of toil and many qualms as to whether our destination would ever be attained, we eventually reached Sankisia, a railway depot about 18 miles from the river Lualaba, on September 28, I915, NATIVE BOYS BRINGING IN BUCKS FOR DINNER It is a simple matter to step out into the teeming jungles or prairies of Africa and obtain an unlimited supply of game for food. The ordinary diet of the native consists of a manioc or cassava flour made into a paste, and a meat stew concocted of everything, from ants and grasshoppers up to man. in but secretly and rarely nowadays. having taken approximately six weeks to cover the bush journey of 146 miles. [The railroad from Chilongo to Sankisia, shown on the accompanying Map of Africa, had not been completed when this expedition was undertaken. | BOATS LAUNCHED BY HAND FOR 350-MILE RIVER TRIP Needless to say, all of us breathed a prayer of thankfulness and relief, but realized we still had many miles to cover before reaching Tanganyika. Three or four days were spent here in transferring Indeed, “food that once talked” is a special delicacy, though indulged the boats to the train for the 18-mile run to the river at Bukama, which we reached without further adventure. At Bukama a camp was established while the work of launching the Mum and Tou-Tou went ahead. They were simply man-handled, no cranes or hoists being available. Iron rails were laid from the trucks to the riverside, down which the boats were gradually lowered broadside in their cradles into the river. The cradles were then knocked away and the boats floated clear. It was now found that, owing to the 344 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE BUTCHERING AN ELEPHANT FOR A NATIVE FEAST The native method of elephant-hunting is to drive the beast into a huge pit, especially dug and covered with branches and grass, where it is killed with spear thrusts or poisoned arrows. As fast as a section of the hide is stripped, it is rubbed with salt and rolled up. TOMMY ATKINS TAKES HIS TEA IN THE HEART OF THE JUNGLE When the inland villagers overcame their consternation at the sight of two traction monsters belching forth fire and smoke, they became very friendly and brought the expedition offerings of fruit, vegetables, chickens, and goats. The white dress of the African tea-pourer is indicative of the influence of a mission station. TRANSPORTING A NAVY THROUGH: JUNGLES OF AFRICA intense heat encoun- tered throughout the bush journey, the wood had warped and seams had opened in part, although the boats had been covered with canvas tarpaulins. This necessitated tak- ing out the engines, caulking the seams, and submerging the boats, which then re- sumed their normal seaworthy condition. Our stores and camp kits were transferred to a fleet of large na- tive canoes, carved from huge tree trunks and propelled by na- tive paddlers. As the river had not been charted for some years, it was not con- sidered wise by the commander to allow the Mimi and Tou- Tou to proceed under their own power, more especially as this was the end of the dry sea- son. There was very: little depth in some places in the river, and there was always dan- ger of running upon hidden rocks or sand banks. ‘To minimize this risk and to in- crease the buoyancy of the boats, large iron petrol drums were fixed to the keel of each boat. TEEALS OF NAVIGATION ON A CENTRAL AFRICAN RIVER All being in readiness, finally we started off on our 350-mile voyage down the river, every one looking forward to a much- needed and welcome rest after our exer- tions ashore. But our hopes received rather a sudden shock. Within a few hours after starting, both the Mimi and Tou-Tou ran up hard and fast on a sand bank. Fortunately, both boats being towed by a flat-bottomed barge paddled by natives, THE AUTHOR WITH THE EXPEDITION’S MASCOT When this African pickaninny grows up, he will be decorated with large raised scars on his back and chest to show to what tribe he belongs. and therefore traveling at reduced speed, no damage was sustained, but the accident caused considerable delay. All portable gear had to be transferred: from the lead- ing boat to the rear one. ‘This consider- ably lightened the forward boat and, with the aid of the native paddlers, who got into the water and heaved with all their strength, we managed to shift it inch by inch until it floated free. All gear was placed aboard the float- ing boat and the second one treated in a similar manner. ‘This same trouble hap- pened constantly—no less than eight times in one day, I recall—until we struck deeper water. 346 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE JOSEPHINE BREAKFASTING WITH AN OFFICER This baby chimpanzee was the pet of the expedition. She was quite tame, and romped with the camp's chickens, dogs, goats, and a kitten. She liked to eat with a spoon and cried like a baby if left alone. This “pleasant voyage” was a grueling business. We were baked alive during the day, and tormented at night by all the flying pests of the Congo—mosquitoes, flying beetles, flying ants, and their in- numerable relatives. We camped ashore every night and always made an effort to get our evening meal over before dark- ness set in, for the candles attracted such hordes of flying things that eating was impossible. A plate of soup, a few min- utes after being placed on the table, be- came a seething mass of floundering insect life. Farther down the river we encountered deeper water and under such conditions managed to cover 20 miles in a day. We proceeded under the power of na- tive crews, who swung their long paddles to a chant which, although pleasing to the ear for a while, became extremely monotonous after a few days, because the melody never varied. The native pad- dler who can paddle without chanting has yet to be found; it seems part and parcel of his business. Luxuriant trees, high grass, waving ferns, and stately palms fringed the river banks for miles at a stretch, breaking oc- casionally to reveal acres and acres of rolling prairie, the feeding ground for herds of eland, roan, and numerous va- rieties of buck. Here, also, were to be found elephants, rhinoceroses, lions, and buffaloes in large numbers; they would stand and watch us curiously as we passed, scattering and disappearing as soon as a shot was fired. CURIOUS RIVER CITIZENS Stretches of the river were simply alive with crocodiles—enormous crea- tures, most of them. Some lay along the shore, on the hot sand, sunning them- selves, while others floated lazily near the surface, their ugly snouts showing just a few inches above the water. They were difficult targets for our rifles, but TRANSPORTING A NAVY THROUGH JUNGLES OF AFRICA O47 we accounted for a good number ; in fact, we got tired of shoot- ing them, unless. they were wanted as meat for our natives. We came across hippopotami, too, in large numbers. ‘They offer good targets, but can become exceed- ingly dangerous, with their playful way of suddenly rising under one’s canoe and crush- ing it with their power- ful jaws. On October 11 the expedition reached Lake Kisali, the home of thousands of birds of different species, in- cluding marabou, fish- eagles, spur-winged geese, and many other varieties. Kadja,~a Belgian post, was reached the following day. Here the commander was in- formed that the river ahead was particularly rocky and difficult of - navigation. It was therefore decided to put the Mimi and Tou- Tou aboard a flat- bottomed river steamer placed at our disposal by the Belgians. This task occupied several days, and we left Kadja on October 16. More delay was caused en route by the steamer’s running aground on the banks of the river, owing to sharp bends in its course. Other than this, things ran pretty smoothly, and on October 22 we came safely to the end of our cruise at Kabalo. The river journey had required 17 days. Here we lost another officer, Lieutenant Hope, who suffered from sunstroke and had to return to a healthier climate. All that remained now was a railway journey of 200 miles to Lake Tanganyika. Needless to say, we felt extremely happy at the thought of eventually getting to A LATTER-DAY FAD INVADES THE AFRICAN JUNGLE: JOSEPHINE HAVING HER HAIR BOBBED (SEE ALSO ILLUSTRATION, PAGE 340) our destination—a prospect which had on several occasions seemed so remote—and the 200-odd miles between us and the lake seemed but a stone’s. throw. The boats and all gear were entrained’ without mis- hap, and a few days later we arrived at Albertville, on Lake Tanganyika. We were accorded a hearty reception by the Belgians, who stated they had given up all hope of our getting through. A camp was formed and grass huts erected for our accommodation. A TROPICAL STORM ON LAKE TANGANYIKA By this time the rains had commenced, and the first night at Tanganyika we en- 348 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE PUTTING OUT A BUSH FIRE NEAR A TEMPORARY MAGAZINE Curiously enough, in most parts of the Congo bush fires are of rare occurrence, although the natives usually have a fire going all night to keep prowling animals from their villages, and take no special precautions to avoid conflagrations. NATIVES CONSTRUCTING GRASS HOUSES Many tribes of the Congo construct round or oblong huts of grass stems over a framework of forked posts. Both the walls and roof of bamboo poles are thatched with banana leaves. The interior is divided into a few rooms, and there is only one door for entrance and ventilation. It is customary to have a fire in the house continually. TRANSPORTING A NAVY THROUGH JUNGLES OF AFRICA 349 AGROUND ON A SAND-BANK IN THE LUALABA RIVER The sandy bottom and banks of this river are very fickle and sometimes shift with sur- prising suddenness. Daily the good-natured native paddlers of the expedition had to shift the gear in the boats and jump into the shallows to heave the craft over the sand-bars. countered a tropical storm. It broke over our camp in a hurricane of wind accom- panied by ear-splitting bursts of thunder and vivid lightning, which illuminated the country for miles. The lake itself became a raging sea, enormous breakers rolling up and crashing on the shore, uprooting trees, and demolishing native huts. We were thankful that our boats had not been launched; and in view of the violence of the storm, the commander decided not to launch them until a harbor had been devised, there being no shelter of any description for boats. The lake roughly is 420 miles in length and varies in width from 20 to 50 miles. It is situated 2,800 feet above sea-level and in some places bottom has not been reached at 400 fathoms. The water is not salt and can be drunk. This being a private fishery of the King of the Belgians, we were not allowed to use rod and line, but bought our fish. | The east coast, from one end of the lake to the other, was German territory, and the west coast was Belgian Congo. Our depot on the Belgian side was about half-way up, at a place almost opposite the German base known as Kigoma. The lake at this point was about 40 miles across. Ona clear day the high hills on the German coast could be seen distinctly from our depot. OBJECTIVE OF THE EXPEDITION Perhaps mention should be made here of the real objective of our expedition. From time to time during the military operations in the vicinity of the lake, ef- forts had been made by British and Colo- nial forces to advance from either end along the German coast, the idea being to join forces at the German depot at Kigoma and drive the enemy away from the lake, back to the seacoast, and even- tually out of Africa. | All such attempts had been futile, ow- ing to the fact that at any time our troops attempted an advance along the German coast they were subjected to a bombard- ment from the German vessels on the lake. THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ASKARIS, BELGIAN NATIVE TROOPS OF THE CONGO Its effective The Belgian army in the Congo consists of African troops, recruited by conscription and volunteering and officered by Europeans. strength is between 15,000 and 18,000. Well, it was to be our job to destroy the German fleet, and thus assist in making ef- fective the activities of land forces operating against the enemy on their own coast; in fact, we were to be the key to the whole situation. ARRANGING A, BASE 3ut to return to the building of the harbor. Tons of rock were blasted locally, and then taken down to the lake in trucks and dumped into the water. Gradually the rock piled up and extended out into the water, until finally a suitable breakwater and harbor were formed. ‘This operation gave the na- tives the impression that we intended to build a road across the lake to the German coast, 40 miles away, and march across. Time after time dur- ing the course of con- struction the break- water was washed away by -the violence of the waves, and it was not until Decem- ber 23 that the boats were actually launched —nearly seven months from the date of leav- ing England. In the meantime the German vessels often came close to the Bel- gian coast, and on one occasion the Kingant came well within range of the guns of the Belgian forts. These guns had been placed in’ the fort’ only Ses cently and the enemy ‘OUTT AB UR UL Sop COT ULY} 91OU—O]eYPY 7 pvoy]ieVs oy} OF viuvyNG Worf ssozVa syr UMOP poadousNOl UOITpodx*y vILIPY [VPARN OUT, PUL PATOM ST SSOULPOUOT S}E SAOYJO UT JN ‘S}PUSUTO]}IIS OATLU YA POPMOAD 91V ADALI oY} FO syed oUOG ‘sopIposo.19 pur * LUd9} SIVA S}T puw ‘syuLg Ss} SuOTe YAMOAS JURLINXN] oy} UL sUTIeMS OUILS SIG “dsurjyuney sososooourys ‘tureyododdiy yyiM ‘OSUO) OY} FO SoLIvINGI41} JuLy1OduU Ysour dy} FO DUO SI JOALL SIT, Ad OD SLVOE AHL ONIHOLVM UAAIN VAVIVA'T HHL ONO'TIV SIMOVTIIA a we WE SH “ Petey 7, ME: Ne NSG[G [AGG duvdOwl V MOOD CNV NIMS OL ONINVdauNd SHAILVN ~ SS WS x REONTGG. RAVE 351 302 od ee Cad eile a em a a t: THE NATIONAL sKOGRAPHIC LAUNCHING THE ““MIMI”’ INTO LAKE TANGANYIKA MAGAZINE , the boats were lowered down an inclined track by means of a hawser attached to a Ammunition, guns, and provisions were then taken aboard and the expedition was ready for the fray. railway engine. After blasting tons of rock to construct a breakwater and harbor were surprised to find themselves under fire. The Kingani, however, by clever maneuvering, managed to get away un- damaged. The launching of our boats was effected by lowering them down an inclined track into the water by means of a hawser attached to a rail- way engine. A _ three- pounder gun was then fixed forward on each boat and a machine-gun aft. Provisions and a supply of ammunition were stowed aboard, and on Christmas Eve, 1915, we were ready for the attack. We sat down, rather glad of a breath- ing spell, practically the first since we had started our trip, and waited for the enemy to leave their harbor. We kept Christmas in the good old-fashioned style—at least as well as possible under a tropical sun—and each one of us gave a thought to the folks at home. I tried to get angex- pression from my native servant as to what Christ- mas conveyed to the African mind, wondering if he were aware of its origin and meaning. He thought for a long time, and at last informed me that Christmas meant “All white boss drink 2 ” plenty whisky ! ENEMY BOAT SURREN- DERS Our festivities were soon cut short. On Sunday, December 26, 1915, the hands be- ing mustered for divine service at Q:15) a. Mijed message was received "QSQi ur urodosnyy e Aq PojSIA sty SLM OAR] . ~Q » > oO y ‘ e ’ ~ ee OT, “OUOSSULAVT punof AoTULIG o1oyA Jods o[qvsowsowur oy} st ‘910YS Utd}sed s}r UO ‘IfIf[A ‘[NJQNeaq ysour ayy JO dU pur—so|iut ppo-oob—p]iom OY} UL OYLT AVM-YSoAF JSOOUOT OY} ST VYAURSULT, “s}YSIOY Posur1y-poom sy} Jo syueq oy} dn Ivy sadyxeoI1q osuouIuT Sulysep “eos Suruinys snoring B SOUOI0G SYP] OY, “SPoyo surujpyst] pue ‘sspuny} ‘pnoyo oArssoidunt Aq poruedurosoe ‘sur10}s [eordo4} JUsJOIA 0} JOofqns si eylAuRSuey, oye’T VMIANVONVA UNVT NO WYOLS V VALIV SONINOOW YIAXHL WOW NUOL SLVOd ONIMNOAS speeeaeecamnanaygeey ~~ QA x S156) O04 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE NATIVE TROOPS OF THE BELGIAN ARMY CUTTING ENEMY LINES OF COMMUNICATION The Askari is a daring and efficient fighter. Most of the soldiers are recruited from the Bangala, the most intelligent of the Congo tribes. from Toa, about 20 miles up the coast, reporting that an enemy vessel was sighted coming southward. Prayers were finished and the men ordered to get into fighting rig (khaki shirts and shorts) and to stand by their boats. At 11 the boats left harbor, accompa- nied by the two Belgian boats, Netta and Tenton, which were ordered to stand by to pick up the crews of the Mimi and Tou-Tou should they be struck, as one shell hit would have been sufficient to sink either boat. At 11:40 the German gunboat Kingani (this being the vessel reported) was well in Tembwe Bay, to the right of our depot, and apparently had stopped ; but evidently sighting our boats suddenly, the presence of which on the lake the enemy had so far been unaware of, the Kingani turned to the eastward and made off at full speed. The British boats gave chase, and at 11:47, when within a 2,000-yard range, opened fire with common shell. The enemy immediately returned the fire, aiming at the Mimi, which, however, drew TRANSPORTING A NAV Y THROUGH JUNGLES OF APRICA DOO ] | ME MIMI AND °7kOU-tOU STRIP. FOR) ACTION The first naval engagement and British victory on Lake Tanganyika took place on December 26, 1915, and lasted ten minutes. The banks were lined for miles with excited natives, who left their inland villages and flocked to the coast to see a sight forever memorable in their lives. After the victory, they rushed to greet the commander, and trickled sand into their hair as a sign of respectful submission (see text, page 358). THE FUNERAL OF THE ENEMY DEAD AFTER THE FIRST BRITISH VICTORY ON THE LAKE The bodies from the Kingani were wrapped in canvas and buried by the British with full naval honors. Picked troops were put on guard over the graves for some time afterwards, lest some of the native soldiers should revert to cannibalism. There were no British casualties. 306 REESE Tt ree. THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE THE NATIVES MISTOOK SEMAPHORE SIGNALING FOR THE WHITE MAN’S PRAYER TO HIS GOD “The news went through all the native villages that the Great White Chief had been seen making signs to his Ju-Ju (God), calling upon him to deliver another German ship into his hands.” The second British victory convinced the natives that the white man had not prayed to his god in vain, and thus British prestige was greatly enhanced (see text, page 361). astern until the enemy’s guns could no longer bear. The enemy then opened fire on the Tou-Tou, and although shells fell very close, none scored a hit. Again the Mimi maneuvered into position for attack, and after an engagement lasting ten minutes, during which time our gunner scored about 25 hits with high-explosive shells, the enemy hauled down his flag and sur- rendered. ENEMYS COMMANDER KILLED EARLY IN ee Ee Fed Through information gleaned from the survivors of the German crew, it ap- pears that early in the engagement a high-explosive shell pierced the armored screen around the Kingam’s gun and hit the German commanding officer, blowing the lower part of his body away. ‘The same shell killed a petty officer. A second shell also pierced the screen and killed a warrant officer. A third hit the engine- room skylight and two native seamen and a native stoker either were blown or jumped overboard. There remained but one Furopean sea- man, who was at the wheel; but this man was so dazed that he scarcely knew what he was doing. He continued to steer toward the German coast, until a chief en- gine-room artificer took command. See- ing that escape was hopeless, he hauled down his flag and stopped the engines. Several attempts were made to board the prize, but were given up, owing to the roughness of the sea; not, however, before the Mimi had been damaged in collision and sprung a leak. As the Kingani had been holed near the water-line on the port side abreast of the boiler and was in danger of sinking, Com- mander Spicer Simson ordered her to steer for our harbor. She was escorted on each side at half a cable’s length by the British boats. On arriving in harbor, the prize was gently grounded, but sank TRANSPORTING A NAVY THROUGH JUNGLES OF AFRICA we) U ~“ WHEN THEIR FIRST AEROPLANE WAS SIGHTED Spell-bound, gazing upward with arms extended, eyes bulging, and mouth agape, the panic-stricken natives first believed the aéroplane a new kind of bird monster swooping down from the sky to destroy them. But when their fear was overcome, they clustered around the machine and referred to the pilot as “the Great White Chief from Heaven” (see text, page 359). with a heavy list to starboard shortly afterwards. There were no casualties on our side, but the boats were much shaken by their own gunfire. In the meantime great excitement pre- vailed on shore, where the action had been witnessed not only by the whole of the Belgian naval and military personnel. but also by thousands of excited natives. These people had flocked to the coast from inland villages to watch a spectacle they had never seen before and are never likely to see again—a naval engagement. They covered every hill-top and crest along the coast, and when it became known that the German ship had been cap- tured, their excitement knew no bounds. NATIVES OVERJOYED AT VICTORY They came bounding down from the trees and hill-tops, giving vent to loud whoops of delight and _ gesticulating wildly, simply falling over each other in their hurry to reach the beach in order to pay their homage to the new Great White Chief, our commander. There they as- sembled in thousands, arrayed in their brightest pigments and gaudiest loin- cloths, a jigging, jogging, frenzied mass of black humanity—a sight not to be for- gotten. The Belgians also expressed their joy in the usual demonstrative Continental fashion of embracing and kissing each other and by the singing of their national anthem. The members of the naval ex- pedition whose duties kept them ashore were also embraced and kissed, which I rather think gave some of them reason to reflect that even victory has its disadvan- tages (this with all due respect to the bearded donors of the kisses). When our commander stepped ashore, he was met by a guard of honor and over-. whelmed with the congratulations of the Belgian officers. A band of native buglers greeted him with a musical fanfare, weird and wonderful, and the guns from a shore battery thundered out their salu- tations. 008 A eee Ne THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE CANOES USEDION THE TRIP BACK TO) CIVILIZATION A part of the return journey of the expedition was made 600 miles down a tributary of the Luapula River in dugout canoes paddled by native experts. and primitive tools, cleverly shaped, and scraped down to an inch in thickness. The logs are hollowed out by fire Playful hippo- potami and rhinoceroses frequently overturn canoes by rising up under them or lunging at them from the banks. The natives, with grunts of satisfaction and approval, threw themselves flat on the ground and trickled sand into their hair—a sign of respectful homage—as the commander passed among them. The na- tive women flocked around, in an effort merely to be seen by him, regarding this as a fetish which would protect them from evil spirits. In the meantime the prisoners had been brought ashore, some hostility on the part of the Belgian natives being promptly quelled by the armed guards. GERMANS KILLED IN ACTION BURIED BY BRITISH WITH FULL NAVAL HONORS Pater* the semains of the Germans killed in action were brought ashore, wrapped in canvas, ready for burial. The interment, attended by both British and Belgian contingents, took place dur- ing the afternoon. Commander Spicer Simson officiated and full naval honors were accorded. A native bugle band, which had a few hours previously wel- comed the commander ashore, played the last post, and a salute, fired by a party of 50 native soldiers, concluded the cere- mony. A gruesome incident in connection with the burial of the Germans is that a num- ber of specially chosen native troops were put on guard over the graves for some time, day and night. The significance of this lies in the fact that a large majority of the Belgian native troops are recruited from tribes addicted to cannibalism and some of them might have felt tempted to take the opportunity of indulging in their horrible custom if precautions had not been taken to prevent it. The victory was celebrated at nightfall in the Belgian and British camps and toasts were freely exchanged. The natives also celebrated until early in the morning, performing wild native dances around huge bonfires to the beat- ing of many tom-toms. | Shortly after the news had been wire- lessed to the Admiralty in London the TRANSPORTING A NAVY THROUGH JUNGLES OF AFRICA Ayiys following message was received by Com- mander Spicer Simson from Buckingham Palace: “His Majesty the King desires to express his appreciation of the won- derful work carried out by his most remote expedition.” “KINGANI” IS RAISED AND REFITTED The Kingani was quite an asset, being much larger than either of the British boats, and therefore capable of carrying a larger gun. No time was lost in raising her and getting her thoroughly over- hauled and repaired. A 12-pounder gun was dismounted from one of the shore forts and mounted aboard the captured German vessel. To our knowledge, the Germans still had two vessels to be accounted for—the Hedwig von Wissmann and Graf von Gotson. Both were larger than the Kin- gant and carried more guns of a larger type. In addition to this, the Germans had a number of small armed dhows. During the time the Kingani was be- ing made seaworthy, the other German boats appeared from time to time on the horizon. Possibly they were searching the lake for the missing Kingami, but they always kept well off shore. Apparently the fact that the Mimi and Tou-Tou had reached the lake was still unknown to the Germans, according to a statement made by the survivors of the Kingani. ‘They had been astonished when pursued by our boats, and informed us that the German authorities on the other side were in entire ignorance regarding our arrival, The excitement now died down, more or less, barring an occasional night alarm, which meant turning out; but this was no great hardship, as the persistent attentions of myriads of insects of all sizes and varieties usually made us glad to get up from bed to have a rest! During this period of waiting the mem- bers of the expedition took the opportu- nity to indulge in hunting for elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, and numerous species of buck, which abounded not far inland. Lions and leopards were particularly troublesome and daring, often penetrat- ing our camp after dark and consider- Me ably depleting the numbers of our goats, cattle, and poultry. Before our second engagement on the lake, an incident occurred which illus- trates the superstition of the natives and which will show how British prestige was much enhanced in this part of the country. Our commander had occasion to take a trip down the lake to Mpala, a Belgian post, and as he approached he stood up and semaphored a message with his arms to the effect that he was coming ashore. Semaphore signaling being unknown to the natives, they put their own interpre- tation on it, and the news went through all the native villages that the Great White Chief had been seen making signs to his Ju-Ju (God) in the sky, calling upon him to deliver another enemy ship into his hands. OUR COMMANDER BECOMES A JU-JU ‘TO THE NATIVES This happened two days before the commander was successful in sinking the Hedwig von Wissmann, which convinced the natives that the Great White Chief had not prayed to his Ju-Ju in vain. They were so impressed that they molded images of the commander in clay (and good likenesses, too) which they wor- shiped in their villages as their new Ju- Ju. This was very well for Commander Spicer Simson, but it must have proved rather disconcerting to the Belgian White Fathers (a religious order) of the native mission—who had spent years and years in an effort to open the native mind to Christian teachings—to find their black flock suddenly turning to a new Ju-Ju in the form of a British naval commander in clay! SEAPLANES CREATE WILD PANIC AMONG NATIVES Up to the time of the arrival of the British motor-boats and traction engines, the only method of propulsion known to the natives was the paddling of their canoes. ‘The traction engines especially were a great source of wonder to them. Imagine, then, the effect on these people of seaplanes soaring in the air above their villages ! It was simply amazing. Four “Short” seaplanes had been sent out and arrived © \O Se) (QS¢ Aovd OS'IV AMS) SMA JAVM’IVIS YIAHL GNV SHONVO YAATY AO LAT V TRANSPORTING A NAVY THROUGH JUNGLES OF AFRICA immediately after the capture of the Ain- gani. They came packed in crates and were assembled at a Belgian post some 25 miles down the coast from the depot. At about the same time, two portable wireless field sets carried on stout wagons arrived at our base. ‘The wireless sets, with their tall steel masts, were erected in the British camp for experimental tests, much to the mystification of the natives, who, on being told that messages were being collected from the air, dubbed the operators “the White Chiefs who talk to Big Ju-Ju.” WIRELESS COMMUNICATION TERRIFIES NATIVES It so happened that at about the time the Marconi operators made a test of their apparatus the Belgian airmen down the coast, having fixed up one of their seaplanes, decided to make a trial flight. Picture, therefore, the amazement of the superstitious negroes when, shortly after the wireless had begun sending test mes- sages, with the rasping, crackling of elec- tric sparks, lo and behold came the an- swer to their prayers to Heaven, as the natives thought, in the form of a low droning, gradually getting louder! Suddenly the seaplane shot into view out of the clouds, describing circles and going through sundry evolutions over the camp. ‘The natives stood spell-bound, gazing upward with arms extended, eyes bulging, and mouths agape. The airman then made a sudden dive downward and that broke the spell. The savages bounded off into the bush, terror lending wings to their progress. Mothers snatched up their pickaninnies and dived for the shelter of their kraals, shrieking at the top of their voices. It was real pandemonium. Hours later, after the seaplane had set- tled on the lake, the natives returned, but were visibly agitated by what they had seen. They were reluctant to approach the machine for some time, but finally, coming to the conclusion it was not a monster bird bent on destroying them, they clustered round and referred to the airman as “the Great White Chief from Heaven.” We come now to the sinking of the gunboat Hedwig von Wissmann by the 361 Mimi and Tou-Tou and Kingani, the last named now in fighting trim and rechris- tened Fifi. THE DESTRUCTION OF THE SECOND GERMAN GUNBOAT At daylight on the 9th of February a message was received that a boat was in sight, steaming slowly southward. All being ready, the British flotilla started off to meet the enemy vessel, and at 8:35 a. m. she was sighted heading scuth- southwest at about six knots. The enemy vessel turned immediately and attempted to escape; speeding up by putting oil on the fires. The British flotilla went in pursuit at full speed, but until we were within 5,000 yards, the reflection caused by the glassy surface of the lake made the enemy ap- pear like a dark blob suspended above the horizon, with a similar blob some distance below. The Mimi first opened fire at 3,800 yards, making several hits in the first few minutes. | The Fifi opened fire from 7,500 yards, but was Unable-to register “a hit. “Ihe range was reduced, and firing from about 5,000 yards, she scored about 40 hits out of 60 shots. One high-explosive shell burst in the engine-room, killing the engineer and a native stoker, and also burst an oil tank. A second shell burst between the engine and boiler, killing a native stoker and wrecking the engines. A third blew a large hole in the ship’s bottom and set fire to the oil, with which the engine-room was drenched. ENEMY COMMANDER AND CREW JUMP OVERBOARD AND ARE RESCUED The whole ship then appeared to be enveloped in flames, and Lieutenant Odebrecht, commander of the German vessel, realizing that his ship was sinking, gave orders to abandon it. Two of his three small boats were still seaworthy and were dropped astern; but just at this mo- ment a shell passed through one boat and blew the other to pieces, killing a warrant officer and some natives and_ slightly wounding a European stoker and a native seaman. 362 The order was then given to jump overboard, and the survivors—12 Euro- peans, including their commander, and eight natives—were picked up by the Brit- ish boats. The Mimi took the wounded on board and made for the harbor at full speed, so that they could have medi- cal treatment. ‘The enemy vessel was well alight by this time, and shortly after- ward she suddenly up-ended and went down by the head. The British ships then made for harbor, where a repeti- tion of the Kingani scenes took place. The prisoners were handed over to the Belgians, with the exception of the Ger- man commander, who was put on parole and was accommodated in our mess. Due respect was paid to his rank, and he was treated with every civility by all members of the expedition. He seemed genuinely sorry when the time came for his transfer to a prison camp and thanked all for his generous and kindly treatment. He wore the Iron Cross. A good deal of information was gleaned from the native prisoners con- cerning the number of boats, guns, etc., in the German harbor, and as far as we could ascertain, there were still two Ger- man boats to be brought to book, the Wami and Graf von Gotson, the latter carrying.a gun far superior to any of ours in size and range. We also learned that there were some big guns mounted on the German forts ashore; but these, we found out later, were merely wooden dummies! Then came another period of waiting, but nothing happened for some months. Our watchfulness was finally rewarded, however. Early one morning we sur- prised the German boat Wamu transport- ing native troops down their coast. Though well out of range of our guns, the German commander realized we would overtake him before he could reach the safety of his harbor, so he beached on the German coast, landed his troops, and set fire to his ship. It must have been apparent by this time to the German command at Kigoma THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE that the game was up, and that their course on the lake had been run, as shortly afterwards they blew up the Graf von Gotson in the German harbor and destroyed all the small craft, in addition. This was the end of German naval prestige on Lake Tanganyika—in fact, in Central Africa. The efforts of the Naval Africa Expedition had been en- tirely successful in destroying the enemy’s power on the water, and therefore the military forces ashore were enabled to carry on their operations without hin- drance. Our little job being finished, we re- turned to England, having covered ap- proximately 20,000 miles in our travels to Africa and back. ‘This constituted a record distance for any individual expe- dition during the war. With the exception of aérial transport, every known method of transportation was utilized in conveying the boats from England to Lake Tanganyika. MANY HONORS AWARDED TO MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION Commander Spicer Simson, R. N., re- ceived the Distinguished Service Order, three other officers were decorated with the Distinguished Service Cross, and the remainder were promoted. Six Distin- guished Service Medals were awarded to gunners, etc.—in all, not a bad record for a party of twenty-eight. One Belgian decoration was awarded by the Belgian authorities, and that to the commander. In conclusion, I am glad to be able to say that the expedition suffered no cas- ualties, and that all the members on their return, after a short period of well- earned leave, were attached to other units in various spheres of hostilities; but | am sure that, whatever may have been their lot since, not one of them has dwelt on his experiences in the heart of Atriea without a thrill of pride and a feeling of satisfaction at having been one of the privileged twenty-eight comprising the Naval Africa Expedition to Tanganyika. PEOPLES AND PLACES OF NORTHERN APRICA 363 SALEK’ |S Photograph by Horace W. Scandlin A CHRISTIAN BRIDE OF KABYLIA Between the Sahara and the sea, from the Atlantic to the Nile, the Berber type and temperament have persisted from prehistoric times. Among the fairest of these Libyans are the Kabyles, many of whom have blue eyes, ruddy complexions, and wavy brown hair. Most of them are Moslems of the Sunnite branch, but some have become Christians. *JQaUDA UOpOUr STy} puryo sT[Iy oy} sq {UM} PJO ay} PUL ar0Ys [Pda] 94} SoIdNdIO UO} Youat,, Uopout olf], un[d ‘saorSoN pure ‘sqeay ‘smo ‘s1oopY YA pasuoszyy ‘spots MosIVU SH UA ‘ Stall im this’ Proverbial Land of Paradox” the people along the Nile, thanks to British aid, are better off than they have been in generations. The fact that the population doubled in the 42 years of British rule is signifi- cant. A wonderfully developed irrigation * See, in the NATIONAL, GEocRAPHIC MAGAZINE for September, 1913, “Reconstructing Egypt’s History,” by Wallace N. Stearns; “The Resur- rection of Ancient Egypt,” by James Baikie, and “The Sacred Ibis Cemetery and Jackal Catacombs at Abydos,” by Camden M. Cobern. ETC., IN THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE system and a vast network of communi- cations, both so necessary to agriculture im a rainless land, are hers. In the last seven years land has trebled in value; rich farmers have grown richer ; Nile traffic has increased fourfold; into the dusty desert horizon new tracks of steel have penetrated; and away up on the Blue Nile another great dam is being built to impound water for irrigating a yet vaster cotton-growing area. EGYPT WAXED FAT DURING THE WAR Figypt, more than any other land then under British protection, waxed fat off the World War. It is said that England paid out over a billion dollars in Egypt for foodstuffs, camels, mules, and sup- plies for the use of her armies in the Middle East. With this access of wealth and the break-up of the Moslem East that fol- lowed the war, independent Egypt has now gained enormously in political and religious importance. Historic old Le- vantine ties are broken, too, and new channels of trade and immigration are opened. Caliphs have been upset and kings set up; new frontiers, new repub- lics, and new geography stretch in be- wildering disarray from the Suez to the Caspian. And, from the wild, fanatic Senussis of the Sahara to the untamed Afghan in Kabul, restless Moslem hordes brood and look on—doubtfully. Gone forever is the :' “changeless, dreamy Fast” of a decade ago! Growl- ing motor-trucks have crowded crawling camels from historic caravan trails; desert Arabs who used to read the future in the stars now read it in the passing planes of bold airmen blazing a sky trail from Rome to Tokyo, or London to Sydney. A through train, “The Milk and Honey Express,” runs from Cairo to Jerusalem, save for a break at the Suez Canal, when the passengers walk across 379 “pOdd PV 1B Eqeey oy} Jo Adod B aq 0} pres ‘UN[N], UG] JO oNbsoyy dy} FO preAVANOD dy} ST YYSII dy} 0} d1eNds usdo siq dy} pue ‘sonbsoy yoArejry pue uesey{ UL}[NS dy} JO SJIIPUIL OY} JIB “}YSII dy} O} ‘[2AI] TOMO] VY} UG ‘OWOpP spIM 94} dAOGe YStYy sutsta ondsoy IY potuweyoyy oY} FO sjoreulut Jopusys OM} 24} YA ‘Jope}D oY} SI puNO’SI1OJ OY} UL “AO JY} FO YSvayINOS oY} OF IT] YIYA S]][IY YsIppet oy} wWloIZ pey oq AewW OTe) fo MarA prpualds VW STTIH WVLIVNON AHL WOU SHdI’IVO ALINILVA AHL AO ALIO AHL a rs ey RA TRE TOI Se DBM Gt AS AD 380 djoy uo Ysto"]o 1 SX AS KG 2S) N ~ \\\ \\W WN RGB[{ Scere AA Seater TOAMOD pue preuo(, O (A OWN CC \ ~ ayouls ASS “9dJJOO st Ayyeroods osoy N \ ‘ “NUOUL ofeod Ire-uodo oy} yO punos 04 OY} JV 9}VGITSUOD Sout} OYTV) Ni div AOOGTaAO NY saato pod ATT ci WL 9UIOS § RAO LS uejo AUPUL JO Sirssaq GUslih pue ‘S}Uopnys ‘SJURYIII IT 381 382 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE %, Photograph by A. W. Cutler. THE FLOW OF LIFE OUTSIDE THE BAB ZUWEILEH : CAIRO The minarets of the Red Mosque rise above this sturdy gate built by Greeks in the eleventh century. It is one of the old town gates leading into the native bazaars. AEONGy PEP eNieE TROUGH EGYPT AND THE SUDAN 229 Photograph by A. W. Cutler THE STREETS OF. CAIRO Few cities so combine the ancient and the modern as does Cairo. From the terrace of the tourist hotel to the Suk of the sandal merchants is a stride of centuries. The donkey has a load of clover fodder, and the camel is acting as taxi for two, with excess baggage. a floating bridge at Kantara. And the Cape-to-Cairo line is nearly finished, too. How easy, even now, to visualize a Cape- Cairo-Calcutta route, with through trains vide Wecea- the 4 Persian: littoral, and northern India, tying up at Basra with a Bagdad-Antwerp road, and at Bushire with a future Persian-Russian trunk line! (See Map of Africa, issued as a supple- ment with this number of Tur Gro- GRAPHIC. ) An old, old prophecy was fulfilled, the Arabs say, when “The Nile came to Jerusalem’”—that is, when Allenby’s ad- vancing army laid a pipe line as it marched, bringing fresh Nile water with it across the Arabian Desert to Pales- tine.* An amazing accomplishment, cer- tainly, yet quite in keeping with the bold, far-flung sweep of the Cross over this region where so long the shadow of the Crescent has lain. In this far-reaching economic up- heaval, white men of various creeds are swarming in to rejuvenate these long- _ *See “An Old Jewel in the Proper Setting,” in the NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MacazINE for October, 1918. abandoned, Biblical regions. British sol- diers are in Bagdad now, and Christian armies have cut and recut the old trails of Genghis Khan, Xerxes, Darius, Marco Polo, and Alexander the Great, and from Caitromto tae Capes 5,000 uniles, a Boer flying-man has driven his plane, swooping above reeking jungles where Stanley searched for Livingstone. Geographically, Egypt comprises all the land between the Red Sea and the Sahara, and runs from the Mediterra- nean south to the Nubian border, includ- | Nnelthe inal renimsulas im fact, 1 1s about as big as Arizona and Texas com- bined.) but, except. for about 12,000 square miles along the Nile banks and in the Delta (or a region about equal to Connecticut and Massachusetts), Egypt is practically a desert. Its people, including fellaheen (native peasants), Copts, Arabs, Greeks, Syrians, Turks, Persians, and Europeans, number over twelve millions. Quickly told, the story of modern Egypt is that Napoleon invaded it in 1798; then the Albanian adventurer, 384. THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ~ © Donald McLeish A SMILING CUSTOMER FOR SWEET DRINKS IN CAIRO Though a Moslem is not supposed to look upon the face of any woman who is not of his own family, that does not prevent the most cordial relations in common-place affairs of the street, like the buying of a cooling drink from the flabby water-skin with its shiny brass nozzle. \ At At au Runs © Donald McLeish A STREET IN OLD CAIRO On its way to the Citadel this artery of the city passes beneath the shadow of the minarets of the Aksunkor Mosque, which is also called el-Azrak, meaning “the blue,” because of the rich coloring of its tiles. It was built in 1346 by the ruling Amir, whose name it bears. 386 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE . ay Pe hae ee rs wick — . g we 3 es 4 ie EROS GE OER Ro ES AE es ta 1h ie “ Raya fe © Donald McLeish AN ELEMENTARY SCHOOL IN REYES CAPITAL Until recently, the teaching of the Koran formed the major part of the course of study in the kuttab, or native elementary school of Egypt. The most rudimentary science was ignored or taught incorrectly. Under the British, conditions were improving. Now Egypt faces its own educational responsibilities. a\ ALONG THE NILE, THROUGH EGYPT AND THE SUDAN 387 Vi A j © Donald McLeish A CAIRENE EXAMINATION HALL Amid ancient columns dating back to the Ptolemies, in a fourteenth century mosque built by Amir Altun Bogha el-Mardani, the modern theological student takes his examination in the doctrines of the Koran. Less famous than el-Azhar, which is Egypt's largest university, el-Mardani is a prominent factor in theological education in the capital. Mehemet Ali, and his successors held mastery till it went bankrupt in 1870. To protect creditors, France and Eng- land intervened, deposed Khedive Ismail, and set up a . dual control.” » Against tMuisenile wxrawt Pasha led a. rebellion, which the British crushed at the battle of Tel-el-Kebir. For the next 35 years khedives of the Mehemet Ali dynasty nominally gov- erned, being advised by the British Con- sul-General at Cairo, whose advice, not strange to say, was usually taken. From 1883 to 1907- Lord Cromer, a most able officer, held this advisory post, and raised Egypt from bankruptcy to prosperity. When the World War be- gan, the reigning khedive Abbas Hilm1, long restive under English control, threw in his lot with the Turks (who had never relinquished their claim to sovereignty over Egypt), and a Turkish army moved down to Gaza to drive the English out. But England, regarding the Suez Canal as the jugular vein of her empire, could not then risk losing her foothold on the Nile. So, on December 18, 1914, Egypt was openly declared a British Protect- orate. FGYPT’S DARING AND SUCCESSFUL DRIVE FOR INDEPENDENCE Hardly were the guns of Europe silent before Egypt began her daring drive for independence. It astounded even the Fast—this sudden, sensational leaping to life of a race so long bent to alien yoke. Dramatic as the story is, however, it need only be said here that in 1922 the British relinquished their protectorate, and ac- knowledged Ahmed Fuad as King of Egypt. (On April 25, 1922, the United States officially recognized the new nation on the Nile.) SRR hE, STREAK besa THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE cS Photograph by Maynard Owen Williams THE SUEZ CANAL AT KANTARA During the war, Kantara was the base of supplies for the Palestine military force. Its wharves, flood-lighted at night, were scenes of great activity, and back of it on the desert airplanes droned above the landing fields. Both foot-bridge and railway bridge crossed the canal, so that a Cairo carriage could be carried to the hill overlooking Jerusalem. Now the military stores have been distributed and Kantara is once more only a way station on the neck of land which unites Asia and Africa. This rise of Egypt to independence and the separation of Syria, Palestine. Mesopotamia, and Arabia from the old Ottoman Empire throw open the whole of this rich, long dormant land to barter and free contact with the Christian world. Many important new channels of trade and travel are now being opened in these newly freed regions of the Middle East, whose people and potentialities the Turk so long and so cynically ignored. It is not yet easy to say whether immigrant Jews can really make a success at farm- ing in Palestine in competition with set- tled Arabs; but with King Feisal on the throne of Iraq at Bagdad, and the Brit- ish at his elbow, we know what to expect from Mesopotamian irrigation and oil development. And the trade of Syria under Greek and French stimulus is bound to grow enormously. All these changes in the map, in trade routes and economic relations must The railway bridge has been removed. necessarily have a marked effect on the new nation of Egypt. South of Egypt, too, hes the great Sudan, destined to add a vast area to the world’s cotton-growing territories. Till now Egypt, though so well known in many ways, has always been singularly aloof and isolated in her economic life. Most of her trade has been with the na- tions of western Europe. Greeks, Ital- ians, and Austrians, settled in Cairo and Alexandria, have practically dominated Egyptian industry. Now, however, the new railway built from Cairo to Jerusa- lem ties up Egypt and the rest of Africa with the most important parts of the old Turkish Empire and indirectly with Furope itself. Much of the sea trade that formerly belonged to Smyrna and Stam- boul will now reach its destination through Alexandria and Port Said. With the near completion of the Cape- to-Cairo line, it is easy to see what close ALONG THE NILE, THROUGH 2 LALLA LED DERG ELLE CET £3 e : t ¢ is : EGYPT AND: THE SUDAN 389 Photograph by Maynard Owen Williams ALS EATON, ON HE RAILWAY BROM EGY PI TO SYRIAN This scene, taken near the Egypt-Palestine boundary, shows the desolate type of country through which the British drove their military line. From Kantara, beside the Suez Canal, to Jerusalem is a trip by rail of less than 12 hours. trade connections Egypt must eventually develop with the vast domains to the south. THE STORY OF A DESERT RAILROAD Traveling one day, back in 1911, from Suez to Ishmailia, I met a Russian officer with whom I had once been quarantined ona pilgrim cholera ship at Jidda. “Some day,” he said, “after there’s been a big war in these parts, you'll see a railway running down here from Moscow and bridging this canal.” Prophetic enough— except in certain details! You who have made the voyage through Suez and recall its dreary sand stretches will find it hard to realize that, during the war, a magic city of 120,000 people sprang up here half-way between Ish- mailia and Port Said. Kantara, this freak, mushroom, soldier town is called; it is the Suez terminus of the famous desert railway built north to Jerusalem. When Allenby’s hosts were invading Palestine, warehouses stretched for a mile along the Canal banks at Kantara, and at night high arc lamps glared above the yel- low desert. Men toiled by tens of thou- sands, as when the pyramids were build- ing. This remarkable railway, starting north from Kantara, was laid on the sand, mile after mile, as the troops advanced; along with the track was laid the famous pipe line, carrying fresh water from the Nile, for hundreds of miles. Pushing forward through the deep sand and lonely desert levels of the Sinai Pen- insula, this road penetrates Palestine and traverses the fertile plains of Gaza. From Ludd, a branch (following the right of way of the old French line from Jaffa to Jerusalem) climbs the mountains to the Holy City, 200 miles from the Suez Canal. The main line, running through the generally fertile and level area between the mountains and the Mediterranean, has its terminus at the seaport of Haifa, be- neath the stately slopes of Carmel. One writer says: ‘To those who were present at Jerusalem on June 15, 1918, and wit- nessed the departure of the first through jeued oy} JO s ay} Ul ojOY ke Y Plod UWerlit AA oul one op 9y] JIU \I Aq ydei80}0 ‘JUST dy} 0} AJLD OY} YUM ‘DUe}SIP dy} UL UVIS IIe SSUIP[ING UOT}eI}sIUIWIPY | ‘peayspeor dy} UF S1oLURA]S JO SUdZOP Ud}}JO IIe J19Y4} Pue ‘J10d DY} Je S9SIOAUOD JseY IY} UOT] puke 0} DUJeI] 9Y} [TY “yop SutAjdiua pue Jopynoys siy UO [NyJoyseq [jy] & SUIAIIeD oATJeU Ye ‘oJoY pokO]durd [[s 91e SuI[eOD JO spoyjJoUr dAIIUUTIg IVNVO ZANS AHL OL FONVYLNA AHL ‘dIVS LAOd LV AANVALS V ONITIVOO Ud 390 — A a a ty) tH iy y, Wy yyy Vj i, Gp g h L — 9 tty 9p > ee VM a) eee een AAAS SONA Sas Mis y, ey es VW Vy Zz, SERA GANS et oe te 2 SF ae = —= —— ~ 2 EER AGS NSE GOIN o : ~ — _—_ —_ 9 GA SSA a a a NENT Peewee Gea SSNS . ae . GIS SSS RAR LIS Ak aRA OVA GE Sa pias AERO MOR bie ri i Mem ee ee Mee Ce ee ce Upenee Cie Lip? Cbs sits GME YOGI vl, LE Yip hie OPO OPP APO bus deenue Ve Yee ‘baile 391 R OF PORT SAID 4 4 4 ~ CHILDREN OF THE ARAB QUARTI wes « Few pl . who is usually med up. « y { the citv be cl ection © S ts) Heyy qolakee qe - since had brought d c e it necess id firaite it lon Cc itions m 1 war cond ice of the world unti notorious S r c lw Dumping pl alc The Arab Quarter of Port S — ever underwent a greater change y / F el Ws ib h « AY repute upon the ¢ Is fe) t=) Sai , c >» ve s and sober. stem1ou ab 392 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC Photograph from Frederick Simpich WHERE “FAST OF SUEZ” BEGINS Hot, bare, sandy, and sing by on their way East or West. 5500 Europeans share the misery. g ships pas Now more than 2 sion of tantalizin Suez was a miserable Arab village. , Suez is made more intolerable by the endless proces Before the construction of the canal, cheerless MAGAZINE train in history from the Holy City to Cairo, it seemed as if a significant step had been taken in the onward march of civilization.” Notwithstanding the great demands on it during the war, when military trains ran from Cairo to the farthest bounda- ries of Syria, the system held up very well. Its distances in Egypt are not very great. Cairo is only 130 miles from Alexandria and 236 miles from Assiut; the more important commercial towns, such as Tanta, Benha, Zagazig, and Damanhur, are all in the Nile Delta. HOW EGYPT PROFITED BY THE WAR egypt profited greatly from the war. The British army poured out vast sums for camels, mules, grain, and sup- plies, and thousands of Egyp- tian laborers and artisans were paid war-time wages. As a half-way station between East and West, Egypt became the clearing-house for troop-ships from the Seven Seas. After the ‘evacuationamen Gallipoli, a whole army came to Egypt to rest and reéquip. Vast hordes came, also, from Australia, New Zealand, and India, to organize and train. The dry, clear desert air and open spaces madesgan Egypt an ideal training ground for flying-men, and for months the planes of daring students from the world’s outposts split the sky above the Pyramids and the Sphinx, and hovered over the old battleground of Tel-el-Kebir. Fugitives of all races fled thither—some are still there— from beyond the Jordan, and German colonists from Jerusa- lem and Jaffa were taken there and interned. In Egypt, also, were housed the thousands of ALONG THe Nit Tt KOUGEH EGYPT AND THE SUDAN prisoners captured during Allenby’s two campaigns; in a single prison hospital at Cairo there were 12,000 beds. To-day Alexandria is rich. During the war she was the base where all supplies for the Saloniki, Mesopotamian, and Egyptian expeditions, as well as for the operations against German East Africa, were stored. For his Jerusalem campaign, in I917, Allenby had a force of 260,000 British and Indian troops. In 1918, when the in- vasion of Syria began, the strength of the Egyptian force, including whites and In- dians, was about half a million men and 260,000 animals. It cost $200,000 a day to feed this army and much of the supplies came from Egypt. Large sums were spent also in wages paid to Egyptian tradesmen, car- penters, blacksmiths, and the like. Cash was paid, too, for the 30,000 camels which were in use. Thus wealth poured into Egypt, which seems to have suffered less from the shock of war than any other country then under British control. Many of us know Egypt as tourists know any other country. You will all re- call the old fakir at the “Continental,” in Port Said, who rolls an egg between his palms till it turns to a live chick, while his assistant inhales a tired snake or plucks a fat toad from the beard of a scandalized Scotchman. Some of you, too, have bought “real Egyptian antiques” and ‘‘scarabs” made in Naples; and you have marveled over mummies 3,000 years old (fitted with teeth, for verisimilitude, bought from an advertising dentist in London). And every year enough ancient coins are “found” to meet all demands! In other words, we know superficial Egypt—the donkey boys, the beggars whining for bakshish, the smirking guides ; we have seen the tawdry café chantant, and Shepheard’s, and we have been photo- graphed astride a blasé, flea-bitten old camel standing on the sands before the Sphinx. But we Westerners, what do any of us really know of the Egyptian? I remember a night at Kantara. Stand- ing where the pontoon bridge now is, and where the ancient caravan route from © ‘3 393 Egypt crosses the Suez on its way to Syria, in the red blaze of desert dusk, I saw a woman, an erect, slim-limbed woman of the Nile, barefooted, in all the uncon- scious dignity of ancient race. On her head she carried a water-jar—gracefully and easily, like Rebekah on her way to the well. About her lithe form flowed the black folds of the loose, primitive robe that marks the Moslem woman. Casually, without interest, from over the rim of her yashmak she glanced at us; but with what eyes! Lustrous, long-lashed, unlike the eyes of any other women any- where—eyes set under heavy, straight brows, the odd eyebrows of old Egypt. “A woman of the pyramids,” whispered my companion, “‘young and a good looker, ver ©,000 years oldjam face and form!” Handsome she was, indeed; yet astonish- ingly like the crude pictures of the women of ancient times, as we see them carved on the temple walls. “THE INARTICULATE FELLAH”’ These strange people, isolated here for ages, have developed and maintained cer- tain distinct physical and racial character- istics. When you see the modern fellah at work with mallet and chisel, or scratch- ing the sun-baked plain with his crude hoe, or dipping his clumsy fish-net into the Nile, he is, in face and physique, startlingly like the pictured Egyptians of the Pharaohs’ times. Since prehistoric days this race, a vast farming colony, has lived along the Nile and in that great delta which ages of floods have built out into the Mediterra- nean. Though the Persian conquest, about 521 B. C., ended the period of na- tive rule, the mental and physical aspects of the modern fellah are, so far as we can judge, exactly like those of his early an- cestor who sweated under the Pharaohs— and this notwithstanding centuries of sub- mission to Persian, Macedonian, Roman, Arab, Mameluke, Turk, and Briton. | Four-fifths of all Egypt's population, or something near nine millions, belong to this ancient race. Culturally, the fellah has been Arab- ized; he speaks a form of Arabic and turns to Mecca in his prayers. Other- wise he is the same silent, melancholy, 394 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE WEIGHING BAGGED COTTON IN EGYPT bie ie Photographs from A. N. Mirzaoff TRANSSHIPPING COTTON AT ALEXANDRIA gyptian cotton has won an enviable reputation, but at great cost to the soil. The annual inundations do not now furnish enough fertilizer for the crop and some fields are never inundated, but get what water they need from irrigation canals. ALONG THE. NILE, THROUGH EGYPT. AND THE SUDAN Byo}5) A. N. Mirzaoff % Photograph from PUTING SRRENGLEH BACK INTO MW Hh SOIL) AN EGYPTIAN COTTON FIELD inscrutable person who doggedly dragged granite blocks for hundreds of miles to build the pyramids, who blindly bent to the big sweeps of the early Egyptian gal- leys, or who conceived and began to dig the Suez Canal centuries before de Les- seps was born. Hard work is his lot from the cradle to the grave. Riding through the great Delta region, you will see a boy or girl of eight leading the ox in the fields, while the father holds the rude plow. The children herd goats, too, and aid in cotton-picking. THE NILE’S GIFT IS MARRED BY MUD And though “Egypt is the gift of the Nile” it is a gift with a string to it, whose name is mud. \eeping the canals free of silt and keeping the water going has, fig- uratively, broken the tired backs of mil- lions. Many power pumps are in use, of course, especially on the larger estates; but to-day gasoline is scarce and expen- sive, and the average small farmer must water his little patch of land with the shaduf, a primitive balancing apparatus wherein a long pole with a rock weight on one end and a pail on the other is used to lift water from the canals. Two other awkward but ancient irrigat- ing machines are the “water snake,” or “Archimedean screw,” and the ?tabit; these wooden water wheels are used to lift water from the canals and pour it onto higher levels. The thousands of miles of canals serve not only for irrigation, but also to distrib- ute drinking water and as channels of traffic. Sail-boats on these ditches, seen from a distance, seem to be running on the ground over the flat country. The Mahmidiyeh Canal connects Alex- andria with the Nile, and the Ishmael Canal takes off from the Nile near Cairo and carries water to Suez. Nile mud alone no longer is adequate to enrich the fields, and to-day the fellah must buy much high-priced imported fer- tilizer. | The renter usually leases a piece of land for two or three years; the owner fur- nishes seed and work animals, and takes his share of the crop. Cotton, sugar- cane, corn, wheat, and rice are staples. Egypt grew corn for export to feed Rome in ancient times. UOSLIIBPY] 9].1e 4] OHIN 942 Suoye AAQsNpur jurjsodun ue auOd0q sey dURI-1eSNs JO UOTJBAN[NI dy} » WIN Wadd AHL NO dNVO ANVO-YVINS V Aq ydessoj0yq [reer SOPPIIP MOF 4sSP] JY} Suing Prt a 396 ‘\seAyT APON oy} JO Arvuvss oy} se UMOUY Udeq sey FAS] ‘UoAYIo1g sty pure ydasof fo skep dy} doUuIS JOA‘ ANTIVA WIIN HHL NI NYOO ONITIAHS Wh NY 397 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE _ Photograph from Kodak (Egypt), Ltd. AN ORIENTAL VERSION OF THE OLD OAKEN BUCKET The shadtf is a familiar sight along the banks of the Nile and the canals. The water basket of woven reeds is balanced by a counterweight of mud. Water-buffalo, oxen, and camels are the chief work animals on the farms; most of the horses and donkeys in Egypt are owned by the townspeople. While the milk of goats, cows, and camels is used, the fellah depends mostly on the water-buffalo for his milk supply. This ugly, awkward beast requires less food and gives more milk than the cow and is less susceptible to diseases. Few animals are raised for slaughter, probably because of the unfavorable cli- matic conditions. ‘Turkeys and chickens are numerous, but domestic ducks and geese are rare. Around the margins of the lagoons, however, and in the Nile Delta waterfowl, snipe, and other shore- birds are abundant; snipe are trapped in great numbers—in so wasteful a manner that police regulations now seek to protect these birds. And you who know the Suez trip will remember the amazing number of flamingoes that rise and fly about as your steamer passes through the Bitter Lakes. Nile fish are fat and unsavory; along ALONG THE NILE, MaiROUGH HG PT AND TH SUDAN 399 ieheroeraph by A. W. Cutler tHE UNEQUAL; YOKE OF THE EAST: AN EGYPTIAN FELLAH PLOWING WITH A CAMEL, AND A BUFFALO The forked stick of the days of the Pharaohs is still seen along the Nile, although the cotton boom stimulated the importation of more modern implements. the seacoast Arabs catch fish enough for the hotels in the larger Egyptian cities. HOME LIFE IN EGYPT HAS ARABIC FLAVOR In the daily home life of the country fellaheen, the influence of Arab culture is uppermost. “Marry what you like of women, by twos and fours,” says the Koran; so polygamy exists; but it is too expensive for the average fellah. Every village has its coffee-shop, where water-pipes are for rent. Here, too, is the ever-present professional story-teller, the letter-writer, the snake-charmer, the fakir, and the dancing-girl. From our viewpoint, such a life is hopelessly dull. The Egyptian monologue artist has told the story of Sultan Baibar and the adventures of Abu-Zed, without variation, for probably a thousand years ; every member of the coffee-house crowd knows the yarn by heart; also, the tune that is played on the “Aiid” lute, the “Nai” flute, and the “Kamenge” fiddle, for it is always the same. So is the Egvptian dance—not a new step or move- ment since the days of Rameses! Amusements are more varied in the larger towns. Here American moving pictures are shown, shabby one-ring traveling circuses are met, and the rising generation is beginning to go in for games and sports. Plainly, a new era is dawning in Egypt, and it is admitted through all the East that far-reaching economic and cultural changes are sweeping over the country. But it probably will take many years of progress to transform the slow-moving, fatalistic fellah of the lower rural class. He still sticks to his humble mud _ hut, scantly furnished with earthen pots, tin cans, and straw mats, and to the habits of life and work that long centuries have. drilled into him. Building contractors say the fellah would rather carry dirt in a basket than use a wheelbarrow because his ancestors had no wheelbarrows. And, says the fellah, vaccination and similar hygienic measures are sinful, for is not one’s fate ‘spray Apeojs 1104} UO So[sue YysTyes ye paydiod saef 19}eM UsOY eI YAM ‘OTIN Appnur ay} yo syueq Asoddrjs oy} pue syny po[[eM-pnur tay} UsaMJoq Y}IOF pue YoeG OS UIIOM OO}-o1eg P WWOLOId NVILGADX AHL XOX AOTOSD ‘IVOO'! VY] ‘(adA3%]) Yepoy wosy ydessojoyd 400 ALONG THE NILE, THROUGH: EGYPT AND THE SUDAN predetermined by Allah, and is it not a sin to fight the will of Allah? Should an enemy with the “evil eye” turn his glance upon one’s camel, the camel will go lame, of course; what’s the good of worrying? Kismet! FOUR CHILDREN IN EVERY HUNDRED ARE BLIND Four children of every hundred in Egypt are blind in one eye, a horrified scientist estimates, simply because fatal- istic parents sought no timely remedies. Infant mortality reaches 27 per cent. Any precise definition of Egyptian racial groups is impossible. ‘Who is an Egyptian?” is an ethnological enigma handed down from Pharaoh to Pasha. Even the official Egyptian census-taker has divided the Egyptians, as well as he could, into, first, natives; second, Syrians and Armenians; third, semi-sedentary Bedouins—that hybrid between fellah and Bedouin, who has one foot on the culti- vated Jand of the Nile’ Valley and the other on the desert; and, fourth, nomad Bedouins, who are Bedouins pure and simple. There are many other foreign elements in Egypt besides the English. Alexan- dria, for example, is said to be as cos- mopolitan to-day as it was 2,000 years ago. Greeks were to’ be found there in great numbers under the Ptolemies, and to-day they permeate every branch of commerce. Italians are encountered in all walks of life. More than a hundred years ago French civilization was implanted along the Nile, and French is still the most widely spoken foreign tongue. The Turks, who have lived in the coun- try five or six centuries, still constitute the aristocracy of Egyptian society; but till recently, at least, they intermarried little. with the Egyptians. Syrians, as money-lenders, pawn-brokers, and mer- chants, swarm in all the towns and trad- ing centers. THE COPTS, MOST NUMEROUS OF CHRISTIAN GROUPS Of the three Christian groups—Ar- menians, Syrians, and Copts—the last named are by far the most numerous, nearly 700,000, according to the last census. 401 Though Christian in name for 1,500 years, as Lane says, the modern Copt has become in manners, language, and spirit a Moslem. Coptic women are al- most as secluded as Moslems. Their children are generally circumcised, and the Coptic marriage and funeral cere- monies are very similar to those of the Moslems. In his great work, “Modern Egyp- tians,’ Lane sketches the Copt as a sullen, bigoted, avaricious, and dissem- bling character. Sir John Bowring is less harsh. Although the Turks, he says, have always considered the Copts “the pariahs of the Egyptian people, yet they are an amiable, pacific, and intelligent race. They are to the counting-house and pen what the fellah is to the field and plow.” Cromer compromises by saying that the chief difference between the Copt and the Moslem is that the former is an Egyptian who worships in a Christian church, and the latter is an Egyptian who worships in a Mohammedan mosque. He adds that the Copt has a more accurate habit of thought than the Moslem, and, therefore, makes a _ better bookkeeper, surveyor, or engineer. Many Copts have been educated in the American missionary schools of Egypt. The late Minister of Finance, Yussuf Wahba Pasha, belonged to this group. THE SYRIAN A POWER IN EGYPTIAN FINANCE The Syrian—bland, shrewd, and cos- mopolitan—is to Egypt what the inter- national Jew is to Europe—a power in finance, a silent partner in politics. Cromer says: “Whether judged from a moral, social, or intellectual point of view, the Syrian stands on a distinctly high level. He is rarely corrupt. There are many gradations of Syrian society. A high-class Syrian is an accomplished gentleman. It may be said with truth that he is really civilized. In this respect he is probably superior not only: to the Copt, but also to the Europeanized Egyptian, who is too often but a mere mimic.” Though certain Armenians of distinc- tion, like Minister Tigraine Pasha, have held high offices in Egypt, they are repre- sented along the Nile mostly by the shop- ‘yodsO1jO1 Ul SUTJeUTOSeF JNq “OUIT} 94} Je IUTODTAMUN “{]11Yy MoU B SUIIOJ ‘URSSRE{-IOg ye dUO SITY} SAI] ‘W4O}S-puLS B JO SUTLUOD OY} JY} “PoUsVUOD SI }S14INO} YI dy} SB Ie} se ‘pourey AJYsno10yy WIIN HHL JO SHNVA AHL NO WHOLS-GNVS V ABMO][E) WO; ‘J1Opusurpy O Se NET EO: MET : cities ie 42 of os st }dAs 402 ALONG THE NILE, THROUGH EGYPT AND THE SUDAN keeping class and are comparatively few in numbers. THE BERBER’S PLACE IN EGYPTIAN LIFE The Berbers, strung along the Nile from Aswan to the Fourth Cataract, and known also as Nubians, are quite differ- ent from the rest of Egypt’s peoples. Though lazy and incapable, they look on the Egyptians with contempt and never intermarry with the fellaheen. Many white men, moreover, will tell you the Berbers are more honest and dependable, when they do work, than are many other natives. The small, sandy farm of the Berber, with its meager fruit crop, is hardly enough to support him, so he and his older sons usually go to work as farm laborers for a part of the year in Lower Egypt. In Alexandria and Cairo the Berbers are in demand as servants, grooms, and coachmen; and there the modern idea has caught on, for we find the one-time “big black Nubian slaves,” who used to stand naked beside Pharaoh’s throne, waving peacock fans to keep the flies off His Idle Majesty, now organized into a labor union and using the strike to force their demands! EGYPTIAN WOMEN HAVE COME TO THE FRONT In fact, among the political phenomena of Egypt, the strike as an economic weapon is becoming quite common. And another phase of the national idea, or emotion, is the part Egyptian women are playing. Sharing their husbands’ am- bitions, they helped put the Egyptian nation on the map. Like the modern Turkish women of Stamboul, many of these Egyptian women, Moslem and Copt alike, are versed in the literature and politics of Europe, and often during the struggle for independence they joined with the men in signing petitions to the British Government. The famous University of el-Azhar, the chief seat of learning and center of political thought of the whole Moslem Werid, 4s ocared sti Camou. » Iough pupils come from all over the Moham- medan world, Egypt sends most of them; and, as a sign of the times, it is signifi- 403 cant that many of these students are the sons of the fellaheen. To a certain ex- tent it was these students who, returning to the rural regions, spread the new doctrines of freedom and equality learned at the university, and helped to win inde- pendence. The Egyptian native press, too, is in- fluential; one paper printed at Cairo has a circulation of about 20,000 copies. Egyp- tians who cannot read gather in the bazaars in the evening to hear the papers read aloud by students. In all towns the mosques are sources of propaganda and political teaching, and the Copts, though Christians, are, oddly enough, al- lowed to speak on political subjects at the mosques. THE FUTURE OF THE SUDAN The economic and political future of the Sudan is closely linked up with that of Egypt. Since that day in January, 1885, when the mad men of the Mahdi killed General Gordon with their spears, many a stirring scene in the drama of civilization has been staged in the Sudan. Like Bagdad, Af- ghanistan, and the Forbidden City, the Sudan is one of those picturesque places whence adventure and romance seem al- ways to spring. Because of our own growing cotton shortage, the Sudan holds new interest for us, as it is called the greatest potential cotton land in the British Empire. In area it covers about a million square miles. No count has ever been made of its peo- ple, but they are estimated at three and a half million. A few British officials (about one to every 10,000 square miles), with the help of minor Sudan and Egyp- tian assistants, administer the govern- ment. A THINLY PEOPLED LAND OF AMAZING DISTANCES A sort of Arab mixture inhabits the north of the Sudan, and in the south are the blacks. In the east you find your old. friend the ‘“Fuzzy-Wuzzy.” On_ the whole, it is a thinly peopled land of amaz- ing distances. You can go south from the Egyptian frontier six hundred miles by rail before you get to Khartum. From there south you can go another thousand miles on a flat-bottomed, paddle-wheel 404 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE | : = is ie © Publishers’ Photo Service “FORTY CENTURIES LOOK DOWN UPON YOU” Riding an antediluvian camel under the broken nose of the Sphinx has been a favorite outdoor sport in Egypt since the time of “Innocents Abroad.” One has the sense of being held in suspense by history while the ever-ready camera records the grain of incident in the desert of time. ALONG LEE NIE. hiROUCH HGYPT AND THE SUDAN . \ \ Se Photogi 2 gypt), Ltd. m Kodak (E TE PORDAL ADL iARNAK BULLE BY “DEE TEIRD: POLE NY SS aph fro teway, erected by Euergetes I and representing the conqueror of the is impressive ga Th Seleucide praying and sacrificing to the gods of Thebes, ushers one in to the wonders of Karnak. 406 For nearly fifty centuries Memphis commanded the admiration and To-day a prostrate colossus of Rameses II is about all that any one would care to see. wonder of resident and traveler. Nile steamer before you reach the south- ern boundary of the Sudan, which is al- most on the edge of the great lakes and a third of the way to the Cape of Good Hope. Some travelers enter from the Red Sea via Port Sudan (700 miles south of Suez), proceeding west by the new rail- way. The White Nile splits the Sudan for nearly 2,000 miles from south to north and is navigable the year round above Khartum. The Blue Nile runs down from the Abyssinian hills and joins the main river Photograph frombnnedenicl Simpich : A CARAVAN PASSING THE RUINS OF OLD MEMPHIS THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE at Khartum, forming an apex called the Gezireh, or “Island.” This vast flat island is the granary of the Sudan. It is in the northern part of this Gezireh that the new irrigation projects are being un- dertaken. Engineers say land is the cheap- est thing in the Sudan. Water is abundant, but labor is scarce. BRITISH ARE STRICT GUARDIANS OF THE SUDAN’S WILD GAME If you want to bring a pet wart-hog or a giraffe home with you from the Anglo- Egyptian Sudan, you will first have to get a permit from the British authorities. They watch over the wild game to save it from exploitation for commercial purposes. The hunting of ele- phants and _ ostriches for ivory and feathers is strictly controlled ; trade in skins and trophies is prohibited. The exportation of captive wild animals for display in zoos and parks is kept within reasonable limits. “egypt depends mainly on the Sudan for its meat supply, and thousands of acres of land have been put under pump irrigation to provide food crops for Egypt, whose people, as one investigator said, cannot subsist on bank notes and cotton. Slavery, once so common along the Upper Nile, has been largely put down, except, perhaps, in the remoter regions. The country is almost treeless, especially north of Khartum; the few trees found are mostly species of acacia, known lo- cally as the samr. South of Khartum, to about 12° north, ALONG THE NILE, THROUGH EGYPT AND COLOSSI OF RAMESES II AT ABU Mie, FT 4, er a ve Photograph from Maynard Owen Williams SIMBEL :, LOWER NUBIA The facade of the rock temple of Abu Simbel faces the rising sun across the Nile, so that the earliest rays penetrate to the inner sanctuary. On each side of the entrance are two colossi of Rameses. and Lower Egypt. narrow belts of sunt trees (another sort of acacia) line the banks of rivers. This sunt-wood is prized for boat-building, for tanning purposes, and’ is much used for fuel. Farther south, on the White Nile, where there is more rain, forest growths increase, and over in the Blue Nile country the giant baobabs (Adansonia digitata) and the Sudan ebony (Dalnergia melanoxylon) are found. Another Sudan tree known to commerce is the African mahogany of the Bahr-el-Ghazal province. Fires, lit by natives on hunting trips or to clear land, have destroyed much good timber in the Sudan. THE MYSTERY OF THE SOURCES OF THE NILE The Nile, of course, saves this region also from becoming an empty waste. His- toric and important as this river is, its sources were for centuries shrouded in mystery. Early geographers advanced various odd theories; some said the Nile and the Ganges rose in the frozen moun- tains of north Asia, and other imagina- The greatest of Egypt’s rulers is here shown wearing the double crown of Upper tive folk declared it ‘came from: “the Mountains of the Moon.” It was not till 1862 that Speke and Grant located the main source of the White Nile in what is now called Victoria Nyanza (Lake Victoria). On its course through the Sudan the Nile is joined by the Bahr-el-Ghazal, the Sobat, the Blue Nile, and the Atbara. The Bahr-el-Ghazal flows out of the vast. mysterious sudd swamps of the west; the other three streams run down from the east, bringing the drainage from the Abyssinian hills. ia alliAGinicay qaete is, perhaps, 10 greater natural curiosity than this famous sudd (Arabic for block), a sort of vast floating island of reeds, papyrus, and small plants in the marshes formed by the lower reaches of the Bahr-el-Jebel and. Bahr-el-Ghazal. British scientists have estimated the sudd area at 35,000 square miles. One writer says: “To the eye the effect is one of a vast extent of brilliant green papyrus, feathery reeds, and sword-grass, five to twelve feet above the water, broken by 408 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE occasional patches of light am- bach trees, with channels of water, pools, and lagoons dotting the swamp-scape, and here and there a sparse tree or two on the horizon. . . 3 Siam more southerly parts are found many varieties of game. . . . Of the larger species, elephant, giraffe, buffalo, and many sorts of antelope are seen, whilst the hippopotamus is excessively numerous. (‘The writer counted 72 in one lagoon at Shambe.) From the reeds and mudbanks arise clouds of wild-fowl — crane, geese, storks, herons, bus- tard, pelicans, spoonbill, ibis, and duck of every description,” In the rainy, stormy seasons (and when the rivers have risen) these floating islands frequently change positions ; here and there areas become detached from the main body and travel about, driven by the winds, often block- ing the river’s channel as an ice- floe might do. | Lately, spurred on by the world’s paper shortage, scien- tists have been giving attention to the vast papyrus accumula- tions in the sudd, with the hope of evolving some practicable method of paper manufacture. ~S ‘dgar K. Frank re is a few miles from Oena. Life follows the old systems which g This brid Only once above Cairo does the railway cross the Nile. THE ARAB IS THE CHIEF RACIAL FACTOR IN NORTHERN SUDAN A BRIDGE IN THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS So mixed is the native popu- lation of the Nile banks in the Sudan that it has been aptly named the “Negro Potpourri,” though some ethnologists con- tend that these blacks are not really negroes. Probably the Nubians, geo- graphically and physically, are the real link between Egypt and negro-land. Though Moslems for centuries, they have kept their own dialects. The richness of the Nile Val- ley has, century after century, lured so many invaders into it that to-day a veritable babel of races and tongues 1s found here. Apparently, the Moslem religion In the level, fertile delta the railways bear little relation to the winding branches of the great Egyptian river, Egypt is a land of many ferries and few bridges. were in vogue before the days of the bridge, and even in Cairo, street-car and automobile traffic is tied up at certain places every day while the river traffic moves up or down the Nile. but from Cairo to Aswan, a distance of 550 miles, the railway hugs the river as if in fear of the flanking sands. ‘ppns oy} JO pur] oy} wWosF soyExo AAvJUN[OA asoy} JO spuvsnoy} yA] UL Ie O1OY] PUL ‘syeTUOLU Ue} A]LUey OY} JO SAMGUIOUT ONL] I1OW Pozo1} UOJFO ote AY} JG FSoARIS se OYUN. WSNOAIG WOM JAAS] UT SoOrSOU osoURpNY JoplO oy} Fo Auejy NVdUQAS {HL WO NVNOM V pry ‘Qdassiy7) Yepoy, worz Ydvasojoy | YW) ‘UMO ILOY} JO asensury, e yrods 0} sqio y1ep ‘adie] JOY SMO][[® UPUIOM WOI[SOJ{ 9Y} ‘potloAOD [JOM JIVJ: JOY JO Soinyroy DAT}OVIBJE SSof OY} YA ‘SPl[ oy} SulusyJep OZ ‘YOY JO osn oy} Aq pooueyus st YyoIyM Jo AjNeaq oy} ‘soAd sno‘snN] sAeY UoWIOM uPIydA dy TTS iV NTO) GNA. UN SUIRIT[IAA UIMG pleucdey Aq ydeisojoyg ANOOTA WUV SHAH AWHHM 409 410 appeals strangely to the wild tribes of north Africa, and millions have adopted it. Many are carelessly called Arabs be- cause they are Moslems, or because they can speak Arabic, or because they wear a picturesque make-up of town Arab and Bedouin garments. “Invasion, however, is not the only dis- turbing element,” a British military re- port says. “The natives of the Sudan, even when they have adopted a more or less settled life, are great travelers ; traffic in human flesh and conquest for the sake of human flesh have nowhere been pur- sued so long and so thoroughly. The na- tive changes his abode without hesitation, and his love of strange women is passing Solomon’s. “The real Arab appears to dominate the northern part of the Sudan, from Egypt to Kordofan, though he has nowhere ex- terminated the original inhabitants; he has in many cases not yet succeeded in forcing his own language on them, but he has intermarried freely with them, and the resulting mixture calls itself Arabian. It is an old saying in Egypt that you can’t tell a Turk of the third generation from a native of the Nile country.” The Sudan, say the Egyptians, is an integral part of Egypt; but it was con- quered, misgoverned, and lost by succes- sive khedives, and for years and years it was exploited by Egypt for ivory, gold, and slaves. Both socially and ethnologi- cally, it differs from Egypt. The Sudanese do not like the Egyptians ; their only common tie is that both live on the waters of the Nile. Just now, too, the project of building the new Nile dams in the Sudan is arousing much excitement in Egypt, where the fellaheen fear that they may be robbed of some of their ancient irrigation rights. And water, at best, is not always too plentiful in Egypt. By virtue of an agreement made back in 1899, Great Britain shares the pro- tectorate over the Sudan with Egypt; but Englishmen actually govern the country. THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE It is a region, apparently, of vast agri- cultural possibilities. If present projects are carried out, the Sudan may one day grow as much cotton as Egypt itself. EGYPT IS AHEAD OF TURKEY Rejoicing now in her new freedom, and with the increase of agriculture and the growth of irrigation works and railways along the Nile, Egypt is gradually assum- ing a more prominent place in the affairs of the world. Her new government, steered by Europeanized Egyptians, adds another non-Christian unit to the family of nations. Her long French and British tutelage undoubtedly leaves her better equipped for self-rule than either Persia or Turkey. In education, as well as in railways, irrigation works, newspapers, and law courts, Egypt is and will be far in advance of Turkey; yet she must still lack the force and security for progress which Christianity brings. Lord Cromer once said: ‘“The de-moslemized Moslem, al- though he is wholly unaware of the de- fect, is inferior in one respect wherein his inferiority cannot be removed by a stroke of the pen; for the civilized European, as | we understand him, although he may not be an orthodox Christian, is, in spite of himself, to a great extent the outcome of Christianity and would not be what he is had he not 1900 years of Christianity be- hind him.” In Cairo and London, men think mainly of politics and agriculture when Egypt’s affairs are mentioned. ‘To most Amer- icans, however, the name Egypt still means the home of the Sphinx and the whirling dervish, the land of the mummy and the scarab, a desert realm of camels and white-robed sheiks, where long ago the troubles of the Children of Israel first began. And yet—you who know Egypt, you who have come under the spell of the Nile—you can forgive that Frenchman who wept when he saw the Pyramids! Pak CAND? OF Tae BREE IN APRICA By Harry A. McBripe AutTHor oF “THE LAND OF THE BASQUES,” SHORT while ago, on November A 5, 192, tO be moreexplicit, there occurred at tes Navye Wands cat Charlestown, Massachusetts, an incident of note. The commanding officer and his staff, in full-dress uniforms, stood at the left of the main gate of the yard. At the right a company of marines stood at at- tention. An automobile arrived and dis- charged its passengers, who greeted the commanding officer. The marines came to “present arms,” while the Navy band played a national anthem, beautiful and full of swing, yet an anthem very unfa- miliar to American ears. Its title was “Hail Liberia.” ali an «hour later, with the distin- guished guests aboard, the United States cruiser Denver loosed its moorings, glided away from the pier out into midstream, and turned its bow Atlantic-ward. Its duty was to carry back to his country, in far-away Africa, the chief executive of the Liberian Republic, and at the same time to bear messages of good-will from this government to that small copy of our own institutions which the world knows ase. biberia,. President Charles Dunbar Burgess King had been in this country for several months, appointed to bring in person to the notice of Uncle Sam the appeal of Liberia for financial assistance. Liberia did not come begging with empty hands, but proposed, as security for a credit of $5,000,000, to pledge all her revenues, which in themselves are more than ample assurance of repayment. AMERICA RESPONDS TO LIBERIA’S APPEAL, The appeal was not altogether in vain. The United States recognized the neces- sity, which arose because of Liberia’s par- ticipation in the World War and has requested Congress to authorize the estab- lishment in favor of Liberia of a credit of $5,000,000, secured by proper safeguards. The Liberian plan is to use this money principally for opening up what has al- ways been considered potentially one of IN THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE the richest corners of Africa, and no one knows what hidden natural wealth will be discovered when motor roads are blazed through its jungle lands and palm forests. To-day there are no civilized settlements more than twenty-five miles inland from ‘the coast; the vast interior is a blank, both to Liberians and to the outside world. Immense palm forests are known to exist—greater, perhaps, in productivity than those of Nigeria and the Belgian Congo—and if no other object is attained than bringing these within reach of the needs of present-day civilization, Liberia’s prosperity will be doubled and her name will jump from a bottom rung to a much higher place on the ladder of commercial nations. PROBABLE MINERAL RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY Inasmuch as Liberia’s neighbors, colo- nies of European powers, explored and developed with money from the coffers of the mother countries, have been found to be rich in gold, tin, coal, and other essen- tial products, why not Liberia also? Pres- ident King’s visit, among other things, was for the purpose of having an Amer- ican expert mineralogist sent to Liberia to make explorations for the government. One day, in conversation upon the sub- ject at the Department of State, he said: “We want to know what we have in our country. For example, I think we have gold. I have a sample of what is believed to be gold, picked up in a certain locality in Liberia.” — Putting his hand in his pocket he laid on the American official’s desk a rough nugget larger than a chicken’s egg, which was found to be gold of marked fine- ness. One day in Liberia, while speaking to. a Liberian, I also remember noticing that he was wearing a large and very beautiful diamond scarfpin made from a rough stone which was picked up in Liberia’s hinterland and was sent to London to be passed upon by experts. The stone was 4II 412 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE THE MARKET PLACE OF MONROVIA Looking down Water Street, Monrovia’s principal business thoroughfare—a picturesque place on steamer days, with its crowds of natives in bright cotton prints. «Je eee. = *. es oe Pet Phelps-Stokes Fund Photographs LIBERIA COLLEGE The college has a good location, on a hill overlooking Monrovia on one side and the South Atlantic on the other. Photograph made in connection with a tour of the African Education Commission. tA CAND SOP THE PREE IN APRICA 413 a a” pa amass eB PETE Phelps-Stokes Fund Photograph THE EXECUTIVE MANSION AT MONROVIA The official residence of the President of Liberia, like our White House, has an ‘East Room.” found to be a perfect “blue-white” speci- men. It would appear, therefore, that Liberia is in the position of a multimil- lionaire owning block after block of prop- erty on Broadway, but who finds himself in need of borrowing the necessary capital to develop it. That the Republic should first come to America for aid is not unnatural. No- where in the world can there be found a foreign country so like the United States in history, language, customs, and form of government. After traveling up the West African coast, touching at ports in British, French, Belgian, and Portu- guese colonies, all of which are decidedly foreign, distinctly West African, and al- together “far-away” and different in char- acter, most Americans experience, when the slow West Coast steamer turns its nose into Monrovia. Bay (see Map of Africa, B-8, issued as a supplement with this number of THE Gk0GRAPHIC), a feeling of being much nearer home than the 4,000 miles which actually separates him from the nearest American ports. The steamer, cautiously approaching the shore, finally drops anchor and awaits a brave little surfboat, pulled by twenty stalwart natives in white duck uniforms, at first a tiny speck in the huge waves churning so threateningly over the dan- gerous bar. This feeling of interest is in- tensified when the boat approaches nearer and a flag is made out at its stern, so like the Stars and Stripes as to be readily mis- taken for it. The Liberian emblem, how- ever, has only eleven stripes and one lone Star. Next the customs officer approaches— his English is decidedly American in ac- cent—and demands that each passenger landing in Liberia prove that he has $100 in his possession. ‘This requirement satfe- guards the little Republic from having to care for public charges. And he doesn't speak of pounds, francs, or pesetas, either ; he says, in plain American, ‘one hundred dollars’’-—another link with home, the only place in Africa where the currency is the same as ours! LIBERIA’S CAPITAL NAMED FOR PRESIDENT MONROE Monrovia, the capital, named for an illustrious American President, is the 414 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE THE PLAYGROUND OF THE KRU The Krus, who mainly occupy the Liberian littoral between Grand Bassa and Cape Palmas, love the water. They are sailor and fisher folk, and from early youth Kru boys spend most of their lives either in or on the water. They venture miles from shore in tiny fishing canoes. s » bs a Photographs from Harry A, McBride KRU-TOWN, A NATIVE SECTION OF MONROVIA Monrovia proper is built up the slopes of a hill (in the right foreground). Kru-town, where some three thousand Krus dwell, is on the sandy point which juts out into the bay, It supplies many deck hands and winch boys for handling the cargoes of West Coast steamers. THE LAND OF THE FREE IN AFRICA largest town in the Republic, and I should say that few cities in the world have a har- bor so picturesque. Nature seems to have lavished great care on this out-of- the-way tropical stop- ping place. Monrovia Bay is about seven miles wide, and ves- sels enter the harbor in the center, with Cape Mount far off toward the left and Monrovia Point, high and TOcky,- On ‘the fight. Between the Cape and the Point is the oval background of sandy beach and majestic palms. Some two miles from the Point, Mesu- rado River empties into the Bay with a FEorkscriew turn around the sand-bar with which it has ob- structed its own free entrance into the At- lantic.. Just back of- fie pat, the town it- self nestles peacefully on the hill rising from the river bank, with its white roofs emerg- ing from unsurpassed tropical verdure. Because of the bar, steamers are forced to anchor a mile or more from the shore, while passengers and freight are landed in surfboats. Often this landing is an exciting ex- perience, and the passenger always mar- vels at the canny judgment of the native “headman” in choosing the wave that will be the longest and safest to “ride in on.” Sometimes his twenty oarsmen will wait a quarter of an hour just beyond the powerful surf, then a wave mountain high will be seen racing in from the sea; the brawny native Krumen, clad only in loin-cloths, lift their oars and brace their bare feet against the cross-board in front of them. little urging. 415 J Wy Vif Photograph from Herbert Halloway CANOES AT MONROVIA, CAPITAL OF LIBERIA Kru boys paddle a mile out to sea in round-bottom dugout canoes to the side of an incoming steamer. They will dive for pennies with The boat rises on the incoming moun- tain of water, the headman gives a shrill cry, and the men pull for their lives to keep the boat balanced on the churning crest. Spray flies on every side, and to the uninitiated this is apparently their last moment on earth, as the slender boat shoots, at terrific pace and at some hor- rible angles, over the bar. But soon the waters become more quiet, the pace slackens, and the boat is pulled along on even keel again, perspiration glistening on the muscular brown backs of the crew. _ Up and across the Mesurado River, they go past pretty little Providence Island, with cBride BAGO oat oni larry AG “TESSANDREW” A well-known native eccentric often seen on the streets of Monrovia—a most happy _ indi- vidual, despite the fact that he is deaf and dumb. THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE its one immense baobab tree towering over a cluster of mud huts, to the Mon- rovia landing, half a mile from the bar. It is possible that the harrowing experi- ence of crossing the bar has something to do with making Monrovia look so charm- ingly inviting. The landing is disappointing. The wharf is small and untidy and the main business street along the waterfront— Water Street—is none too wide, none too straight, none too well paved, and none too clean. The business premises, most of the more pretentious kept by British, French, and Dutch firms, are poor, with the first floor usually built of cement and the roof of corrugated iron. Water Street could, however, easily be made to compare more favorably with the main business centers of Freetown or Dakar. RESIDENTIAL SECTION BUILT IN ICAN COLONIAL STYLE AMER- Climbing the hill, two or three blocks, one comes to Ashman Street, the chief residential thoroughfare, which is very pleasing in aspect. The Executive Man- sion, the foreign legations and consulates, the War Department Building, and the Representatives Hall lend to its impor- tance. On this street are also several of the best residences, well constructed of brick, after the fashion of American houses of the Colonial days, with columns along the front. The Executive Mansion is a large, white, three-story structure—and it has ts “East Room.” In the reception-room are portraits of some of Ljiberia’s presidents and the framed photograph of one foreigner. This foreigner—a hero in Liberian his- tory—is Captain Frank H. Schofield, of the United States Navy, who, while in command of an American cruiser, quelled a native uprising on the coast a few years ago. He also landed a supply of rifles to enable the Liberian Frontier Force, a well-trained tiny army of 800 native sol- diers, to keep the peace thereafter. In Liberia, army rifles have ever since been called “Schofield rifles,’ and the government forms of the War Depart- ment list so many “Schofields” as being in the possession of each company. Liberia occupies that corner of West THE LAND OF THE FREE IN AFRICA Africa which juts out into the Atlantic as if in an endeavor to reach across to the Brazilian shore, on the South American Continent. Only a few years ago the maps showed it to comprise a large area, extending northeastward almost to the Sahara; but the geographers themselves were unable to place definite heavy lines for Liberia’s interior frontiers. Then came the dreams of African em- pires by European nations, and little by little the area accredited by the map- makers to the weak little Republic has dwindled until to-day its coastline is only 3600 miles in length and its frontier farthest in the interior is only 200 miles from the seacoast. Its present area, about equal to that of the State of Ohio, is one-third what the Liberians originally claimed, and their claims were probably as good as those of many of the powers which undertook the colonizing of the Dark Continent. LIBERIAN COLONIZATION MOVEMENT BE- GUN IN I8I6 FOR FREED AMER- ICAN SLAVES Here and there along the coast the original settlers—negro freedmen from the United States—founded little towns and settlements. They were sent from America back to the lands of their an- cestors by the American Colonization Society, in which such men as President Monroe, Henry Clay, and others were in- terested. This movement began in 1816, and the first vessels, sailing schooners chartered by the American Government, set forth from New York in 1820-22. Many of the first settlers succumbed to African fevers; others were killed by hostile natives. Indeed, the early efforts of these civilized Americo-Liberians to establish themselves on the African coast were not unlike those of the early colo- nists at Jamestown and the seekers of new homes who landed at Plymouth Rock. Finally they acquired right to certain lands by purchase from native chiefs. How many strings of beads were paid to the American Indians for Manhattan Island? Either the purchasers of the first Liberian settlement were more liberal or the natives had better business heads. They charged and were paid quite a price—six muskets, one small barrel of 417 WW™0) SN BSS SSN S NQK . NK Photograph from French Colonial Office A YOUNG BAOULE GOING AFTER WATER He is a native of the French Ivory Coast, which lies to the east between Liberia and the British Gold Coast. 418 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE s Pee. Photograph by T. C. Mitchell IN LIBERIA’S INTLERIOR, HIGE,) HILLY, ANDIH BAL TPH UE This photograph shows the quarters of the Interior Commissioner at Zinta, not far from the frontier of French Guinea. Photograph from Harry A. McBride A LIBERIAN NATIVE TOWN, SET IN A SMALL CLEARING OF BIG BUS Iie The roofs of the huts are of palm-frond thatch and the walls are of daubed mud. DEE ANDY OK ahh PREY IN VAPRICA 419 Yy Yy/ Y Ly y Yj PN A ype, WP tr agag, G Photographs from Harry A. McBride AFRICAN NATIVES WITH THEIR CHILDREN In the foreground are two large calabashes used by natives for holding their drinking water. ‘spunod £g 0} OS WO} SYSIOM PROT ISeIDAL uy ‘Ssuo0ijs Ajawioi}x9 o1e siodurey asoy} ‘souvivodde ur [rery ysnoy], LYOdSNVUL GNWTYAAO YO GUSA SYATNVH AVATI-WIVd espiipltv “f£ \L 4q sydesz0j0yg "(Of ased ‘}x9} 99S) PULIUL So[IWT OOI WOIF IBAA P[IOAA 9Y} SULINP BIAOIUOJ O} 911 JYSNOIG VAOGE UMOYS BUO 9Y} Se sUeARIeD YONG HSnd AHL HONOUHL WIA AIONIS ONIWIVM SYAIWAVO AALLVN eo hy 420 pue pjos jo sx Ievur ate Sul oe ue. ‘s}sayd JOMoL,, 94} WOT, Udy} "SJUDUIPUIO Tey Sse px Ie sjyoyyue jo spied ‘stoppnoys pue syoou uo 6 ‘sosnoy Jy} Woy SuNUuNq pure ssepy 3 SM IIV SULOD JOATIS suny oie speoq JO S| SUISULY JO PLOJSUT SOATOSUOY} 9}e10I9P oysnq ‘Av[d oIYM JO SOUT] YIM SOATVEU JY} ‘BOLIFY YSOAA UL OATIIe SAepP dJoF VOY MM, AG te, LOLOOT mt Ys ty) hee wey Yo 422 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE A NATIVE “YENKETTI” OR SUSPENSION BRIDGE These suspension bridges are frequently encountered by the traveler in the hinterland of Liberia and Sierra Leone. rivers from branches of trees. powder, six iron bars, ten iron pots, one barrel of beads, two casks of tobacco, twelve knives, twelve forks and twelve spoons, one small barrel of nails, one box of tobacco pipes, three looking-glasses, four umbrellas, three walking-sticks, one box of soap, one barrel of rum, four hats, three pairs of shoes, six pieces of blue baft, and three pieces of white calico! All the above was given “cash down” in part payment, but the native kings agreed to give credit for the following, which were to be paid by the colonizers when they could: Six iron bars, twelve guns (probably long Danes), three bar- rels of powder, twelve plates, twelve bar- rels of ships’ biscuit, twelve glass de- canters, twelve wineglasses, and forty pairs of boots. LIBERIA HAS AMERICAN FORM OF GOVERN MENT In 1847 the little settlements along the coast united to form the Republic of Liberia, and published to the world two documents—their Declaration of Inde- pendence and _ Constitution—both of The ropes are made of fibers and the structures swing over the which take the form of their prototypes in American history. Joseph Jenkins Roberts was elected the first president of the Republic. He was a man of superior talents, and the first administration, though encountering innumerable difficulties, was conspicuously successful. At that time there were two political parties in Liberia—the Whigs and Republicans. Roberts’ successor, Stephen A. Benson, was elected in 1856. The first president was a mulatto, so light in color as to be readily mistaken for a white man. Ben- son, however, was quite black. An amusing incident at the time of the elec- tion of Benson is quoted by Professor Frederick Starr in his excellent and au- thentic work, “Liberia,” which is to-day used as a textbook in Liberian schools. A certain Captain White, of Virginia, met in Monrovia an old negro and former slave, whom he had known in America. The Captain asked: “Which of the candidates for the presi- dency are you going to vote for?” “Oh, Benson,” replied the negro. DHE wAND, OF THE BREE IN APRICA Photograph by T. J. Alldridge A NATIVE INDUSTRY FAST LOSING GROUND IN LIBERIA Formerly Liberian women wove much fine cloth from cotton that had been treated with native vegetable dyes. replacing the finer, heavier native cloths. “Has not Roberts made you a good president ?” “Vessah,” said the former slave. “He is a very smart man,’ Captain White urged, “and much _ respected abroad; I think you had better vote for him.” “That’s all true, but the fac’s just this, Massa White: The folks say as how us darkies ain’t fitten to take care o’ our- sel’s—ain’t capable. Roberts is a very fine gentleman, but he’s more white than black; but Benson, he’s colored people all over.” There are to-day less than fifteen thou- sand of the descendants of the original colonizers. These are the Americo- Liberians, who carry on the affairs of the Republic, control much of the commerce, and attend to the few existing industries. They’ have, in turn, civilized and given a certain amount of education to about 100,000 of the coastal natives. In ad- dition to these, Liberia’s population is composed of some 1,500,000 uncivilized natives who inhabit the interior regions. Cheap, bright-colored cotton prints from Manchester are gradually Never have the Americo-Liberians penetrated far inland. Their towns are along the seacoast, and for 15 or 25 miles up the principal rivers their settlements and farms are found. Monrovia, the capital, has a population of about 4,000. Grand Bassa and Cape Palmas rank next in order. Then come the smaller villages, and how interesting to Americans are their names: New York, Philadelphia, Virginia, New Georgia, Marshall, Bunker Hill, Hartford! But they are like American localities only in name. | , Some 20 miles up the St. Paul River from Monrovia, the one motor-boat, if it happens to be running properly that day, turns sharply to the left, toward the landing place of New York. It might be said that New York, Africa, and New York, America, form the two extremes in human habitats. At the latter, one lands from a 50,000-ton liner upon a wonderful two-story pier of re- inforced concrete, and is cast ashore into the canyons between skyscrapers, into the aa iehotoeraph ie T. Cc. Mitchell A MOTHER OF THE BUZI TRIBE AT ZINTA She is hanging out the weekly wash, unim- peded in her labors by her conveniently placed babe. noisy turmoil of its 6,000,000 people. At the former, one steps carefully from the one-ton, antiquated motor-launch on to the dubious-looking single landing plank and springs ashore into the mud. There are three cottages in view, built upon supports of bricks, which might be called bungalows if they were more care- fully constructed. But New York, Africa, also has its skyscrapers—two immense cottonwood trees. It also has its turmoil— THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE the deafening croaking of hundreds of bullfrogs. The Liberian farmers devote themselves to coffee-growing, their product being popular in Germany and the Scandina- vian countries. The bean is large and the coffee is excellent, though very strong. Palm oil, which all Europe finds indis- pensable in its soap manufactories, in glycerine production, and in other indus- tries, and the demand for which is rapidly growing in the United States, is produced by the natives and forms a remunerative export, which could be vastly increased if means of transportation from the great palm forests were made available. Piassaba is the third product of impor- tance—a strong palm fiber from which the brushes for rotary street-sweepers are made. ROADS TO THE INTERIOR ARE ESSENTIAL TO LIBERIAN PROSPERITY None of these exports can be increased appreciably until the interior regions are tapped. There is only one way to accom- plish this and to add to Liberian products such material wealth as may be found hidden in its jungles. The vital need is roads. ‘To-day the only way of sending a bundle of palm nuts from Kolahun, on the northern boundary of Liberia, to the coast is on the head of a naked native. He will walk for days on narrow native paths, wandering in all directions, wading streams, covering 300 miles, whereas a straight road 200 miles in length is what is needed, with motor-trucks to deliver produce from the northern boundary on the piers at Monrovia in 24 hours. And that is why the Liberians were so desirous of borrowing money. The enthusiasm for road-building al- ready exists. ‘Two years ago, when the writer was residing in Liberia, the “road talk” began. Monrovia, however, was a difficult locality from which to start a thoroughfare into the interior, because it is built on a high point overlooking the Atlantic and is surrounded on three sides by the ocean and the wide rivers flowing into it. The only direct way would be to build a bridge over three wide rivers; and such THE LAND a bridge would have to be as long as the Brooklyn Bridge. One hundred dollars, due to the ad- verse financial situation caused by the war, represented the total sum available for road-building at that time, and it was decided that this would fall somewhat short of the cost of construction of a second Brooklyn Bridge. JUNGLE ROADS BUILT UNDER - DIFFICULTIES Extending for 15 miles along the Atlantic was a strip of land densely covered with jungle growth and paralleled by a river which degenerated here and there into mangrove swamps. At the end of this river is a town called Paynesville. Now, the problem was to get a road to this town by hook or Look. WeCalise, «ence there, a good motor-road could be readily econsructed “into the interior: Nothing daunted by the appalling lack of funds, the Liberian Gov- ernment decided to make a start at least. Two or three British and Dutch merchants volun- teered to lend a dozen axes and shovels, and a British firm also lent the most important factor— a small American automobile. At the time, forty prisoners were idling their time away and eating immense quantities of costly rice. The axes and shovels were placed in their hands and they were told to cut a straight path 21 feet wide through the jungle. Some one made a nice guess as to the direction this path should take, and a fortunate one, because it just skipped the swamp land on the north and a lagoon on the south. The only way to tackle the prob- lem was by guesswork, because the jungle was so thick that none could tell, in the absence of skilled engineers, what lay ahead until the great trees and undergrowth were chopped away. Huge boul- ders of rock would come to light, OF THE FREE IN AFRICA 429 PRCtOr Dhl by eC aNINrCRE lI BRIDGE OVER THE ST. PAUL RIVER This is another type of bridge constructed by natives in northern Liberia—logs tied together with native ropes and floated on the water’s surface. 496 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE » . Photograph by: Tua) vAlleaeie ASCENDING AN OIL PALM TO CUT DOWN THE CONES OF THE PALM NUTS The oil palm is probably Ljiberia’s greatest natural resource. Forests of this tree are extensive along the coast and in the northern hinterland. Palm oil is used in enormous quantities in Europe and the United States in the manufacture of soap and in the tin-plate industry. It is also an important article of food among West African native tribes, “palm-oil chop” being one of the few native dishes which have been adopted by European and American residents. THe PANDO OF THE EPREE IN AFRICA often in the exact center of the roadway. No tackle, chains, or tractors were avail- able; so great fires were built in trenches dug around the rocks, heating the stone until it cracked and, piece by piece, could be removed. A four-mile stretch of soft sand was encountered, which had to be given a cov- ering of gravel and clay; but no wheeled vehicles were on hand, not even a wheel- barrow. The merchants again came to the assistance of the road workers and contributed 40 empty kerosene boxes about the size of a bushel basket. The next day a line of 40 natives commenced to move from the gravel and clay pits to- ward the sandy stretch, each with a bushel box of heavy earth on his woolly head. At the end of three months the road- way, over which an automobile could pass in a not too uncomfortable manner, was 12 miles long and only three miles from its objective, Paynesville. A Kru boy chopped down another tow- ering palm tree, a Bassa man felled an- other; then the Kru boy crawled through the tangled undergrowth to get at the next one, but his jaw dropped and he muttered the Bassa word for ‘damn.’ There was “no tree, but the right of way in front of him took a sudden drop, and the bottom thereof was a deep, swift little river, and the Kru boy knew that that “puck-a- -puck wagon,” the automobile, could not swim. It looked as if the road would end right there. SPIRIT OF PROGRESS DISPLAYED IN ROAD- BUILDING But the Liberians were determined that the road should reach Paynesville. Yd 0} At > ‘PQUILIPUL UP] PUTO}eNS) IWS ST ‘Spanos JO JEUunTS SI J ope ul VOINAV LSHM HSHNDN Lad Milled ‘ S10}eUOSII YL VIOONV FO M ‘s}juoun S ONVId » » Y AISUL 9 SS) ayy Aq LION AL psonpoid sisnut jo Aj] i= nb oy J, 432 433 “ y “ — VY Y WY jj Yy "Uf y Y G YUU) G | 2. W444) YY W Y YY Yu Uy saat Bi _ LL Yyy "yyy vyyyyyf LZ j/// Yy y a WY YyMJu“sws- Yo Yy Vo Wide EEE “ pervice © Publishers’ Photo NYA COLONY 4 Y IVORY AT MOMBASA, KE 4 a LOADIN( the “ing h of iecumulated dur Less than one-fift from native stores irticles of the world. « Sp _— >) _ = ~ > __— — ~ = 5 ~ =o ~ -_ — ~ — _ fs) . ~ . ~_- oO _ _ - ad Palins _— ae i) a —e n> epee a = — ~ DY = = ou = % -< = —_—_ = oS YY & Gt OU owt ct = Ee —_ 4 _— 2) ee oe! n An O-= 4 - ed a — Q-~ Y - = — f . _— oy Y — -__ Neen —_— ‘4 = = Se) ~ tay —_— = _—-~ — e — - NT LS, , oa VY Y ‘ — ein Africa furnishes most of the ivory for the bill g exported comes from ils WwimM< . c b many years or from tusks found Ivory now cl. 1¢ ive di € unts h where elephi ces ie ine p li ele hic 1) mysterious jun ‘sounqoid [NJAopuoOA dsoy} poule}qo pue UOTIpsdxo 9y} poruedurosov ‘toydessozoyd ourdpy poysinsuljsip otf} ‘e]JOS PIIOWIA daaypeaed “Izznaqy ay} JO ayxNq 9yy Aq poquird ysry sea ‘A]e}] FO VILIOYSiVJY udon() Fo 1oUoy ur powreu ‘opeuuid oy, “PAPMPY I4Oq,V aye’] pue yoqiy dYW] UseAjog ‘prog Of pue suo] so jut Sg SSCUL UTeJUNOUT B ‘aSuRY TIOZUANY oY} FO FPUILUNS JSOFO| JY} SE ‘Yystoy ul JoofF SIg‘gI “AoTURIS IN VOY JIVINOLVOAGA “AONVY TIOZNAMAA AHL AO SAWINVLS “IN 10 LNIOd LSHILIOT AHL “MVAd VIIMAHDIVN ELJaS ersoptA Aq ydessojoyd 434 ‘soroods ooo'r saoquuntr o1rs9ues snus ot IJIOMSLA Udp]OS ou} se Ayiwezy snosoWINU oUTeS Oy O Joqwou FP : . Wy e G SUDAN DP F OIIIUIS AAvoy-do}y oy} UL TO ‘TIMOLY [eUIpIvO UOLULUOD OY} FO JAT}LOT dSO]I & TUUDULPY NYS D1jaqgo’y podeys-o[ pues INOZNAMOAN AO SHdOTIS AHL NO SHIGNVO VITHAIOT AGNV SHHOYOL OIONNUS ld LTJOS viI0OPW A Aq YAessojor ] 7 Yy oy} Ul IZIUSOIII P[NOM OY AA Yj Vi 435 dy} 1047 PLIPS ‘dn s9ysry yooy ooS' aseq oy} usaq J er10}}1\ Aq ydeis0 arpiea 1OUd Ol pe TIOZU9O Y Yoru: Woe, MM) JO yRod 4soazo, oy} YUM ‘vas oy} aAOQe 499} OOO A[UO SI BSUNYIG ‘UOorIpedxy whosny Ysiyig a oO UNYIG JO ISLI[IA J]}IT] OY} DAOGE ISpl4i dy} SUISSOID IzznIqy dy} JO 94Nq IY} JO UONIpedxo oY} JO sIOqUuIO/T VOIMAV VIVYLNAD NI DONIGWIIO-NIVINNOW 430 Yyy « Photograph by Vittoria Sella 99 S OF OUR FAMILIAR “INDIAN TOBACCO TROPICAL COUSIN of the lobel There are more than two hundred UWCHZOrl. Y XN ith forest on the slopes of | 9) 4 — a = ZA wo =< = my on os — — = —S os) — ~ ~ tw O ~ DTS) = oo) cB) = — ~ — ~ ~— — io) _— — = ited to the heather of the S . c ire rel s of which flourish in the m arietie everal v e 1as, species The tree heaths grow to an altitude of 12,500 feet and RAPHIC MAGAZINE G O —\ 4 4 NATIONAL GI THI 438 a i at Photograph by Vittoria Sella TROPICAL FOREST IN THE HEART OF AFRICA 4 As Mt. Stanley towers above the African plateau, so this giant tree, emulating the mountain on whose slope it grows, has risen head and shoulders above its fellows. 439 AFRICAN SCENES FROM THE: EQUATOR TO THE CAPE \ ays ilw graph from South African Ra Photo VICTORIA FALLS, RHODESIA MOKE HOME OF THE SOUNDING § Musi-oa-tunya, “Smoke does sound there,” is the native name for this queen of waterfalls, which han a mile wide and from 256 to 343 feet high. 1S more t ysOu 94} IO DUO AlIsea JL SoNPUL DAL] ySasie] puodss oy} st ‘usonb ‘poose|d aq pjnoo pury}OIS sty JO JOUOY UI polueuU uTY Jo} VIYOLOIA AMVT YVAN A S Aq pue € oul Y ») LYM OFUT IVOSANVI NV ‘Oo - » ¥ S uedx Sel ul oyads “HY 3 4St 9 + A S VE YEA pa ‘{ Aq PotIAOOSIp ILLV'Id AINV I ‘ dnos ‘ ‘1oyeM JO SoIpod pue[UT Sulysos9yur yoof O7Z'Y FO opnyyye s}y “pyszoM oy} UI IJIN OY} JO ILOAIOSAI OY} ‘VIIOPIA Dye] qHUL-AOVSAVS V 440 soysy joyJO pue sulitoy yo dO ‘ QITATIS 0 }OUd Ss.oysty qn \ Yo ‘PpUNOASIAIOF OY} UL AOYARASOJOYA ol} OF SPAIG BSoY} JO OOMOAOJIPUL OY} OJON “Spoof Ft YOryM uodn speoys yno Ads 0} APYIGR s}t TOF Osye yng ‘ourvns VOINAV HO LTSVOO LTSHMH LAOS AK ww A ON JO to » YEE, . snpoid we L NO: Stl » » v SP Ajuo you ‘UMOUy A[OpIM SI Lo9NdOUd-ONV NO ‘ S003 \ N ue \* [OS SO ‘ youur 3 oy re NS SS SAVY MG \ f 4 AAI 442 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Be ES soe os aon from S A MIX-UP IN THE AFRICAN STRATA: CAPE OF GOOD HOPE PROVINCE eS : » ‘ Photogr outh African Railways The distinguishing feature of African geography is its freedom from complex structures. South Africa is largely a table-land, reached by three steps from the sea, and such up-ended strata are not frequently met with. AFRICAN SCENES FROM THE EQUATOR TO THE CAPE 443 | Publishers: Photo Service LION’S HEAD, ONE OF THE GUARDIANS OF CAPE TOWN Table Mountain (seen in the illustration on page 444) is not the only remarkable landmark of the seat of administration of the Cape of Good Hope Province. ‘To the east rises Devil's Peak and to the west Lion’s Head. InyoId sty} YSIYM WOIF ‘peofyT s.uol’y pur ‘4yad] dy} UO [IAW 91e Surjos 33 Uy B OF PUNOLSYIEq Duds o[qou ve ‘YSIYy Joo} OOS'E ‘uIeUNOP| [qe], St IYSt4 ay} OF, ‘ IOVS HAISSHYMNI NV SHIdNDDO NMOL WdVO 704d Stoysyqnud UOU OY} YIM dOULpP OF PoRtutod wopjos ore LOU, VOIVAV Wowieg “Ay °O Aq ydvasojoyud ‘SISNUL [VOOA OY} OF OUT Suidooy ov SOY} O1OYM ‘S1ooULP JO UT] 9Y} PurYyog Udds oq AvU MOUIOA OL HLYNOS :IVVIN IVLVN V NI HONVGC DSNICGIM NTAZ Vv 445 ‘UOIUL) 94} JO saduTAOId “KUO[OD JY} FO SJOP]Inq-peos jeI18 9} JO suo ‘Uleg SappdH MoipUYy Joye PouleU ST ssed oy, Aq popunoy sem Auojod aded [eUISIIO dy} JO UO SuIWIOIEG sNy} “VLIpy YO JO Uolus) oy} UI poSiour sea ‘Ordl ‘1€ Avy UO pue ‘zSOI Ul YIN 2} MHL FO PONIAOUd :AOOIM S.NIVA NI WOON LIidTod ¥ AdOH dood AO AdVO ydeisojloyd SABPMTIEY UP Pe «< wort PS a4 ymos hE SOCiIn DY S NEW> MAP OF AFRICA ITH this number of the Na- TIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE the National Geographic Society issues the fourth of its series of continen- tal maps, compiled and published since the World War. This New Map of Africa supersedes the smaller map issued by The Society several years ago. The areas on that continent affected by the Treaty of Versailles are even more extensive than those so affected in Europe, so that the student of geography finds it necessary to reconstruct completely his ideas concerning African colonial posses- sions. More than a million square miles of territory in Africa—one-eleventh of the entire continent—belonged to Germany in 1914. ‘To-day, these vast regions are being administered under mandates exer- cised by Great Britain, France, and Bel- gium. The new map shows that, as a result of the World War, the French have added to their control mandated areas considerably larger than all of France in Europe. The Tricolor now flies over more territory in Africa than does that of any other nation, French colonies, pro- tectorates, and mandates having an ag- gregate area which exceeds by nearly 80,000 square miles that of the entire United States, including Alaska and all our insular possessions. The map shows more than 735,000 square miles of territory transferred from German sovereignty to British mandates (413,000 square miles to Great Britain proper, and 322,000 square miles to the Union of South Africa). From the Em- pire’s territorial accretions, however, must be deducted the 350,000 square miles which until recently constituted the British protectorate in Egypt. It is interesting to note that only three countries in Africa—Liberia, Egypt, and Abyssinia, with a bare 741,000 square miles of territory—are independent. The remaining millions of square miles of the second largest continent, comprising more than one-fifth of the earth’s land surface, are ruled by European nations. The acquisition of colonial territory in Africa took place, in the main, during the last quarter of the nineteenth century. At the beginning of that century, France had a foothold on the west coast near the Senegal River; Portugal was established in lower Guinea, on the west coast, and in a small district opposite the island of Madagascar, on the east; while Great Britain’s chief interest lay in Cape Colony, which had been taken from the Dutch during the Napoleonic wars. The explorations of such men as Liv- ingstone and Stanley, Rohlfs and Du Chaillu, during the last half of the nine- teenth century, fired the popular imagina- tion and brought about that awakening of public interest in the Dark Continent which caused a “scramble” for colonies between 1875 and 1900. Germany did not embark upon a colony- acquiring policy until 1882, when a Colo- nial Society was formed to promote lec- tures and to establish a colonial nauseum in Berlin. Bismarck was won over to the scheme and German traders began to es- tablish stations along the west coast of Africa. One of the most active agents in Ger- many’s colonial enterprise was a Bremen citizen, Herr Luderitz, who acquired, by treaties with natives, a small area around Angra Pequena on the west coast, north of the Cape Colony settlement. He de- manded German protection; Bismarck granted it, and in 1884 the German flag was for the first time authorized to fly over colonial property in Africa. Lu- deritz’s name is perpetuated in that of a small town on the coast (see H-15). Next came acquisitions in Togoland and the Cameroons. In 1885 Germans were active on the east coast, making treaties with tribal chiefs for an enor- mous tract of land embracing 200,000 square miles, known subsequently as the protectorate of German Fast Africa. HOW THE GERMAN HOLDINGS HAVE BEEN CONVERTED To the Union of South Africa has been entrusted the mandate over German Southwest Africa; Great Britain has fallen mandatory heir to German East Africa, now known as Tanganyika Ter- ritory, to a strip of Togoland (13,514 447 448 square miles) lying on the east bank of the Volta River and to a portion of the Cameroons (34,750 square miles) bor- dering on her possessions in southeastern Nigeria. France has assumed the mandate over the major portions of Togoland (20,154 square miles) and the Cameroons (270,- 270 square miles). Belgium’s share in mandate responsi- bilities over Germany’s former African colonial empire consists of the territory lying between Lake Tanganyika and Lake Victoria, known as Ruanda and Urundi— some 19,000 square miles. The territorial interests of European countries in Africa since the mandate ad- justments are represented by the follow- ing statistics: France, 4,474,000 square miles—more than twenty times the area of the home country; Great Britain, 3,854,600 square miles—more than thirty times the area of the British Isles; Belgium, 928,900 square miles—more than eighty times the area of the governing country; Portugal, 927,- 200 square miles—equal to twenty-six Portugals - in - Europe; Italy, 591,200 square miles—more than four times the size of the governing country ; and Spain, 128,100 square miles—about two-thirds the size of the home land. One of the most interesting features of the New Map of Africa compared with that--published by Ihe Society several years ago is the remarkable development of the continent’s railways. The lines under construction are being completed so rapidly that on two occasions during the publication of the Map, which required three months, it was found necessary to stop the presses and change the lines from “proposed” to “finished” railroads. In several instances, the boundaries be- THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE tween colonial possessions have not yet been fixed definitely. In such cases the tentative or approximate lines are shown by broken color lines, as, for example, between French West Africa and Italian Libya and between Italian Libya and egypt. The boundary between Italian Somaliland and British Kenya is also in the course of amicable adjustment. In the spelling of native place names, the [British transliteration system has been adopted, but a key has been pro- vided (in the Note in the lower right cor- ner of the Map), which will enable the student to obtain the French, Belgian, Italian, and Portuguese equivalents of the English sounds. OTHER MAPS IN PREPARATION The Map of Africa will be followed in the near future by a Map of the World, drawn on a newly-devised projection, which shows the Western Hemisphere practically without distortion. Later will appear a splendid Map of the United States of convenient size. The maps already published by The Society and issued as supplements with the Nationa GEocRAPHIC MAGAZINE during 192r and 1922—Europe, Asia, South America, the Islands of the Pacific, the Countries of the Caribbean, and Af- rica—represent an expenditure for com- piling, engraving, and printing of more than $200,000. In the compilation of data for the Map of Africa The Society wishes to acknowl- edge its appreciation of special facilities placed at its disposal by and valuable ad- vice received from the Map Division of the United States State Department, the Graphic Section of the Army War Col- lege, and members of the American Con- sular Service stationed in Africa. REGARDING ADDITIONAL COPIES MAP OF AFRICA Additional copies of the Map of Africa are obtainable from the headquarters of the National Geographic Society, Washington, D. C., only, at $1.00 each on paper, and $1.50 printed on linen map paper; maps in color of the New Europe (30 x 33 inches), Asia (28 x 36), South America (25 x 35), Islands of the Pacific (19x 25), and Countries of the Caribbean Map (42x 23%) at the same prices. SEYCHELLES 18. P ead e 6 ip) bats AFRICAN IS. MAHE I. | 5 x < AMIRANTE (S, @®e687,/05EPH |, (Br.) is Y « a a 4 *MARIE_LOUISE i. wALPHONSE J. *? ST FRANCIS IS- (Br.) ee cS Se PROVIDENCE I, ALDABRA is, 3 I. os ‘ sl pee e*? COSMOLEDO IS. teRF I. ASSUMPTION {, MENAT I (Bre = (Br.) ASTOVE I. # FARQUHAR IS. (Br.) | ~ go ts./ RES) GLORIOSO 1s, ~ (iS-GLORIEUSES) OHANNA |. (IZANJCUAN) pS PY MAYOTTA I, oP VJ (1.MAYOTTE) (Fr) ee er q i i 4 : y : | } ] | | ; * ' ae ATT . Siz - . | d bs al “2 ~ ; sy Me P 7 | , x ; j ~ ps : 7 ==" ' +. 1 Gee Sn ) FERRO. i Pi de pore CUERTEVENTURA winas alm: —< ™MASO.Juby © Spanish opie. g ——,, ESE so 5 Longitude B West (© Greenwich 5 K Greenwich 30° 20° Longitude J SS ae ee F ROASN We Pamplona REAC # Gulf of Lions Se z ap TYRRH ENT N S_E A cepuato} Fie = NSN cos as , A plire, slengiesnan* CTERRITOIREDE, 2a i eericn Ba 3KolParsu-burm q A eKol.Surbys-sukh : A Bh gy-bure ME Kara- Bugazskit ce 8 ews eet ° CHELEKEN 1s &. a OGURCHINSEN 1: = f LX praistan C4 Khonsar ~ te Wau e] Namus Yanibo-él-Bahr a ¥ sai Zawaten. —-—- —- a. 2) Sahel (UPPER SENme OFS EW SAN. DAHLAK [8 20° 15 ate eae nyes “Tinkarg iamu °ol “Nafaa arn _ Omdul sao eK i N WT AuRRIT Oey OF ee ets Ai BY 4 Site Merge SUMS JOU IIB AY TL SivM JO o}Ids Ul pojsistod sey YoryM SULYeU- dp JSOWU JY} JO JUN ][s ST e[qoNng ‘ainjoid oy ‘[BIpsyIwy) vjiqoang ey} JO Jomo} 9Y} Ul Suny NIVdS MAN 9[1} petojoo ul Atjsnput } UL UMOYS sv ‘poyor}e pue AINJUID YJUII}UIAVS ue dlou peYYst[qejsa Sdoyyef UPIUIWO( YJ, “pue] [Ny10[09 oie sodol opiyMed YoryM 0} ‘stoddeyd oy} Aq YyonIZs o1e yng oy} Ul Uledg Ul 4jse Ni WH4MOL TIdd IVOIdAL V 9 d49M S[Joq P[O vUY VS9Yy} JO VWIOS 464 “ONTUI A [RANA SI} WOsF SOWIOD [[1S AY) OOLXOPT JO SAVY SOLIN}UD SuIssed oy} JO} ‘oy “ONL OY} JO WOO oY} OF APWAY Woy, poyor}ye JOfF OALOS FYGIU ANd sty} “soy opsuis ve Wor, paMoT]OYy anbo.11d O4Od UO}OS [Joris yy SOQLJIGIA OY} JO JAvd ToJVoIS oy} We -vulefed oy} JOF poynpysqns otoM $ OY} UL poaoyo SUIPIVS SUVOY,, Of, “SoAd S$ .Zoj1O) OF TeIpIUIe} UO OM MULION JO | nbs oy} JO oovjd ul pue ‘uosd ULITXS|L OY} AQ USOM OLUIN}SOD OAL] () ONILVO'lN AHL NI SpoyAeU JOSUO] OU }VOLS V IGALG popllo-ale OO TINTHOOX UMVT AO SNACUV WN \\~ oR es COOK \\ = . ‘seo: \ \ \ \ RL. \\ Sar DS.QQ SHR caeaoeds 465 466 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE LB erent FROM ONE CENTURY TO ANOTHER The young lady of the picture is wearing a silken mantilla that was handed down to her by her grandmother’s grandmother, who brought it from old Spain. She is standing on a brick-floored balcony over one of the cool, verdure-filled patios common to all the better-class houses in Mexico, the style of which was devised by Moorish architects long before Columbus crossed the sea. VIEWS FROM MEXICO Yj IN THE CITY OF TILE-COVERED DOMES THAT GLISTEN IN THE SUN The dome of the superb old cathedral in Puebla is covered with multicolored tiles, as are the domes of innumerable churches in that vicinity. Under the brilliant Mexican sun they sparkle with a radiance like polished steel. ‘The interiors of most of these churches have been sacked and despoiled in Mexico’s many wars, but the fine old domes remain as a proof of what existed in other days. 468 THE NATIONAIL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE MODERNITY ON A MEXICAN BALCONY To-day the Mexican senoritas dress precisely as do their sisters in New York, Paris, and Rome, due allowance being made as to the time element for a new fashion to reach remote cities so far from the center of things that one must, perhaps, travel thither on the back of a mule. ADVENTURING DOWN THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO Then the World War and the inter- necine war came to interfere with the west coast trade, so that the gemlike little bay is now almost barren of vessels. On the farther side a German square-rigger, interned in 1914, was drying at its anchor. Here and there were smaller vessels. A schooner from Lower California, once white, now sadly smudged, its sails torn and flapping, nudged into the little wharf. Its sailors lazily rolled ashore bales of dates—rawhide bales, sewed up in the form and size of flour barrels, as the friars had taught the Lower Califor- nians to do two centuries ago. One dis- covers that these dates come from the groves planted by the friars themselves, and no better are grown in the world. As for the rawhide in which they are baled, it is as much an article of daily use here as is barbed wire to the western farmer; or, rather, rawhide was. Now- adays there are so few cattle on the So- nora ranges that a tannery in Lower Cali- fornia imports its hides from the United States. Yet this tannery’s leather is gold- medaled and blue-ribboned all over the world. One hopes that this is but a temporary stagnancy in Guaymas, however. Mex- ican towns have the advantage—perhaps a doubtful one—of a longer perspective than our own cities, which jump from the pine shack to the skyscraper stage over night. After all, the mines in the high Sierras still hold their hoards of gold and silver. Some time, when men work more and talk and fight a little less, the mule trains will again wind out of old Guaymas to- ward the rosy hills, and tall ships will again creep through the harbor gates, and Parisian buyers will again clamor for the pears ot la Paz. When Guaymas: will come back to its own. For the moment one feels that one had best talk of the bay. Not very long, not very wide, hemmed in with hills that come down to the water’s edge, the gate- way invisible in their brown folds, it is one of the extraordinary beauty spots of the world. The water has the hue and iridescence and sparkle of gems, changing and shift- ing and glittering anew as the light de- 469 scends in varying reflections from the summits overhead. It is a paradise for fishermen. ‘The Indian fishers are forever sailing out in their log canoes or towing them back, fish-laden, along the shores. Unkind breezes and treacherous currents are un- known. The bay seems as gentle as those who use it. Like everything else about Mexico, that statement must be qualified. The natives of Guaymas are gentle, but not far up the coast of the Gulf of California a savage tribe is dying. One need not mourn the Seri Indians too much. They are naked, squalid, de- generate. They live in pits in the sand or under the branches of trees that they tie together with withes. They have no culture or traditions or kindness. ‘They are non-producers of everything save hate. It may be that another year or so will see the last of them. ‘There can hardly be more than 100 left now, and each winter takes an increasing toll of their scrawny, starved, shivering bodies.* But they have never struck their colors. They are the active enemies of every sentient being in the whole world. LOWER CALIFORNIA AND ITS GREAT PEARI, PORT Across the Gulf of California, a few days’ sail on one of the schooners that from time to time drifts languidly over these tranquil waters, is the wonderland of Baja California—Lower California. It may be a bit arid. In point of fact, it is more than a bit arid. Horned toads carry canteens when they travel there. There are sections of the peninsula where it has not rained for seven years. One must be a desert-lover thoroughly to appreciate the sandy wastes, its weary miles of mesquite and cactus, its huge canyons marked here and there by the traces of a race that is not only lost to history, but the existence of which can- not be explained by any of the common- sense theories of to-day. But, provided the visitor does not fear See an account of the Seri Indians in aN Mexican Land of Canaan,” by Frederick Simpich, in Tur GEOGRAPHIC for October, 1919. ‘901} oT quirIeae AIJAI JO IpeYs dy} JopuN Soyj ay} Aq yNO paye}s aie syIOI SUTVYSY JO SOUT] SJOY}O UT o]IYM ‘UVdS aq [IM PjIq atues B A[PIeY SUMO} JSBOd-}SaM JY} FO amos UT ‘uodn pauMosy suvaUT OU Aq SI PE yNq ‘SatI}UNOD URITIOUTY UNje’T JoYy}O oY} JO ouIOS UT se OdIxayy ur avjndod se jou st Surjysy-yI09 ATLLVa YOL AGVAN SUOIMAVM CHAN LVAA ORE se 470 Ayyenuyuos oy ynq ‘ssop sty poof you Aeur « OSPARS OY} JO JUOLUAOLUD sTy Aq pojsopTurU \ oH “STRUUTTUe ITYS I ‘sTewuiue fo Sul NC ~ \ SLad dJuIOp Sty YP SUIIO} a[qissod ysoq oy} uodn JOYNS oY} 0} DoUDIOPIpur suosd oy} 9] MIHHL GNV NaYY@WIHS NVICGNI TOUO 2) A|QetIvAuL SI dt 0} p4ey 4 ‘uoy} syod oy WY} PLF oy} YPM YUSsyT[Ng puy Ys OITXoO | UL St « JSUPIYS 471 . _ Ch “~~ =p a ~ Uv ~ =e Chiles ~~ on a YU “oc S YO oo —— ~ VU sf} = ad anne =. © of oes 2, ae oer os q@) .« an _— -_ cue) hs, oS a D yy, rey Sie oe O 4 eS! HY. ates om) vr ~ n 0D) —) oN In a land where the climate rarely ADVENTURING DOWN THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO the sands, Lower California has much to offer. Pearls, for one thing. The hidden port of La Paz is, perhaps, the third most important pearling port in the world to- day ; it is certainly no worse than fourth; and yet not one man in a thousand who knows of the pearling operations in the South Seas and in the waters of Borneo has ever heard the name of La Paz. Two years ago La Paz had more dol- lars per wagon-load of population, per- haps, than any other town in the western half of the world. The price of pearls had been boosted sky-high by the demand from the newly enriched of the World War, and La Paz had pearls to sell. It had been a pearling center for cen- turies. When the Spaniards, led by those extraordinary noses that could smell marketable commodities over leagues of sand or tumbled mountains, first came to Baja California, naked Indians were liv- ing in brush shelters on the shores of the gulf. They found nothing to tempt them. They were about to sail away, according to the legend, when they disc6vered that these naked Indians—so miraculously poor from the Spanish point of view that even their souls seemed hardly worth saving—were possessed of pearls worth the ransoms of many kings. A PRICELESS BLACK PEARL WAS INDIAN BABYS PLAYTHING In the crown jewels of the emperor of the dissolved Austria-Hungary there was—and no doubt the pearl specialists know where it is to-day—a great black _ pearl. That gem was found in the care- less hands of an Indian baby playing on bie beach at Ma Paz. In time the pearl-oyster beds were partially exhausted in the vicinity of La Paz, for the Mexican Government has never compelled their proper conserva- tion, and the pearlers were forced to go farther afield. Nowadays the pearlers cruise, when they cruise at all, on the Pacific coast as far south as Manzanillo; but La Paz re- mains the center of the industry. The mother-ships fit out there, and it is there that the pearls are brought to be sold to the experts, who at the proper season gather in the little mud-walled, 473 palm-shaded, dusty village. Two years ago the tiny hotels were so jammed with pearl-buyers from the world capitals that some of these millioned men slept on blankets in the dirty corridors. Most of the jewels go to the Rue de la Paix or to German or Dutch buyers. But in the last season hardly a buyer was seen at La Paz. The bottom had fallen out of the market. HOW THE PEARL OYSTERS ARE GATHERED AND DIVIDED The mother-ships are small schooners which carry three or four canoes, each with its crew of three or four men, who work on shares. The canoe crew gets one-tenth of its day’s catch, paid over oyster by oyster on the schooner’s deck, and opened as fast as counted. All expenses are paid by the capitalist who outfits the mother- ship. It is a prodigious gamble for all hands. An almost naked Indian may work all season for barely enough to pay his frijole and tortilla overhead during the winter. Or the first oyster he opens may make him rich for lite: The pearls of the Orient are mostly white and pink, which are precisely those which can best be imitated by the wily pearl counter feiter. But the waters south of La Paz pro- duce many black pearls, and brown pearls, and golden and gray pearls, and pearls of many another enticing tint. They do not run as true in form as those of Borneo, but their colors cannot be surpassed. During the boom times La Paz’s streets ran with money. There is a story of a black pearl for which an Indian canoe crew—not one of whom, perhaps, had ever possessed more than a suit of white cotton and a wide hat—was paid $200,000. To-day it is doubtful if pearls com- mand, at the source, one-fifth the price they did at the height of the boom. But one day the world trade will revive. It always has. Then La Paz will come back into its own, as the third—or, perhaps,. fourth—pearling port of the world. TRAVELERS CARRY THEIR FUNDS IN GOLD We began to be annoyed by the fiscal system of Mexico. It had seemed ro- mantic at Nogales—a long step back to- 474 SENOR ZOPILOTE IN A MOMENT OF RELAXATION Modern physicians do not agree with the Mexican belief that the buzzard is a safe and efficient scavenger. Instead, it is maintained that he is a dangerous carrier of disease. In Mexico, however, sanitation is entrusted in the sinaller towns to the joint efforts of the buz- zards, the pigs, and the dogs (see page 485). ward the friars and Cabeza de Vaca—to find that we must supply ourselves with gold for the journey down the west coast. Thanks to the geyser of paper money that burst into Mexico under the revo- lutionists, beginning with Carranza and enthusiastically furthered by every revo- lutionary general who could commandeer a printing-press, there is no governmental credit whatever. Paper money is not ac- cepted at any price for anything. No one will ever know how many mil- lions of paper pesos were emitted by the various officials who had rights over printing-presses. "There is even a story of a local merchant who bought a mail- order press and printed his own issue on soap wrappers. But this is no place in which to review THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Mexico's financial history of the past decade. The immediate pinch was that we looked lopsided, like badly packed mules, because of the hunks of gold that thrust out the pockets of our thin clothes. It is necessary to carry sufficient gold, because banks have almost ceased to exist in Mexico. Carranza wrecked the bank- ing system. Now and then a merchant will cash a bank draft or a traveler’s check on the United States, and then that draft or check goes floating about through Mexico, like a paper Flying Dutchman, until it 1s worn to tatters. I have seen checks to which long kite- tails of paper had been pasted to hold the added endorsements. AMERICAN GREENBACKS HAVE NO PRES- TIGE IN MEXICO ‘We had a theory that we could carry our own greenbacks and escape the back- breaking burden of gold; but that theory had been held by many people before us, and the Mexican Government had taken steps to defeat it. American gold is accepted at par in Mexico, but American paper money is specifically ruled against. One may not buy railroad tickets or pay hotel bills or hire mules or get food with it. Hardly a day passes that a resident American does not try to buy Mexican gold of the newcomer with good Amer- ican dollars. At first the newcomer is generous and accommodating. Eventu- ally he changes. Because there are few banks and few bank checks in Mexico, business is con- ducted either upon a spot cash or a long- credit basis. If you have no credit, you pay cash. If your credit is very good in- deed, the day of payment is deferred at an estate-eating interest. The ordinary across-the-counter trans- actions are cared for at weekly settling days. Each business house has a posted sign stating that bills due will be paid on such and such a day of the week. The merchants send their runners around to each other, clearing-house fashion, to re- ceive and pay out gold. It is littlke wonder that banditry has been a fairly successful business in a country in which each cellar is a suspected bank vault. TWO SOLDIERS OF THE WARLIKE YAQUI TRIBE For the first time in history since the Spaniards reached New Spain, the Yaqui may be said to be in a position of ease and comfort. The Mexican. Government is rationing and paying the Yaqui men, partly to make certain that they will continue to be peaceful and partly to retain their services in the event of war. Guaymas is on the edge of the Yaqui country. We had been conscious of the Yaqui all the way south, of course, for in Sonora he forms the background to every conversation; but it was here that he stepped into the foreground. When things go wrong in Yaquiland he is apt to beleaguer Guaymas. It is not so very long ago that no one dared walk out of the dangerous end of town. The Yaquis have burned railroad bridges and held up railroad trains and murdered passengers. ONLY 5,000 YAQUIS SURVIVE At one time the Yaquis may have num- bered 30,000 souls; now there may be 5,000 in all. Their home was in the fertile valleys of the Yaqui and Mayo rivers, with the hills behind as hunting grounds. They were as tireless on the trail as the Apaches or the Navajos, and, despite three hundred years of contact with a Every Yaqui is a fighting man. more or less diluted civilization, are to- day about what they were when the first Spaniard came to Sonora. They live in shacks made of brush, prefer the meat of burros to beef, and preserve jealously the purity of the Ya- qui blood. They are religious after their own fashion, mingling the rites of the Catholic Church with those of their own barbaric faith. Most Americans who know the Yaqui say that if he had been let alone he would have let the white men alone. But he owned fertile valleys and mine- rich mountains. The history of our own West teems with analogous cases. The miners and the farmers established them- selves in his territory, and the Yaqui de- clared war. ‘The technical honors seem to have gone to the Yaqui. 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UP-TO-DATI it ed w ir go0oc equipp s back have been lear stream, and then peddle the ’ The burro waterworks are common to all west-coast towns, of course, t ross the donkey to find ac ac 479 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE AN AGE-OLD SWEETMEAT OF MEXICO The workman in the foreground is pouring the syrup of sugar-cane from a ladle of ebony wood into the wooden molds. In this way panocha, the most universal sweetmeat of Mexico, is prepared. It tastes and looks much like our maple sugar, and extraordinary virtues are attributed to it by the Indians. him ; but the troops sent against him were cut up time after time. After a battle the Yaquis disappeared without leaving a sign. The “bronco” Yaqui became the tame Yaqui overnight. He traded breech clout for the blue over- alls of honest labor. Of course, that sort of thing could not be endured by the Mexican Govern- ment. Without discussing the rights and wrongs, the fact remained that the Yaqui stood in the path of progress. President Diaz at first tried to conciliate and then to defeat them, and finally resorted to a policy of extermination. A Yaqui scalp had a cash value over the counter. I have talked with a man who sat at breakfast with a Mexican gen- eral to whom was reported the capture of 200 Yaqui braves. Without leaving the table, he ordered that half be shot and the other half deported to Yucatan, where laborers were needed on the sisal plantations. One hears in Sonora that not all the ships that sailed for Yucatan voyaged far- ther than the first shark fishing ground. THE YAQUIS ARE MEXICO’S BEST FIGHTING MEN Diaz had cowed the Yaquis if he had not completely subjugated them. The river valleys were given over to the plow and the prospectors roamed at will through the mountains. Then Francisco Madero, practical ideal- ist, enlisted them in his fight against Diaz, and the Yaquis discovered that they could play a part in politics. They are Mexico's best fighting men. To-day the tribe is being maintained with pay and rations as a part of the Mexican army. The railroad line to Tonichi and other short lines leading into the Yaqui country have been abandoned. ‘The Yaquis have been pursuing a policy of more or less peaceful penetration into what was once their own country. ADVENTURING DOWN THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO A481 CHARCOAL-BURNERS COMING INTO CULIACAN FROM THE MOUNTAINS One of the constant industries throughout Mexico is the burning of charcoal for use in the tiny braziers so well adapted to the needs of the housewife in a semi-tropical climate. "We ate coming home. Get out,’ the Yaquis have said to many a Mexican whose family had lived on a Yaqui valley ranch for generations. Usually the Mex- ican gets. If he does, the Yaquis give him orders upon the Central Government at Mexico City for the full value of the property, for the Yaquis, according to their lights, are honest and fair. If he does not leave—he always leaves. Recently the Mexican inhabitants have abandoned the post-office towns of Potam, Vicam, and Torin. Not a person not of Yaqui blood now lives inthem. A fourth town, Bacum, is being slowly reclaimed. The Yaquis are riding nearer the su- perb rice farms of Cajeme, operated by Americans through sheer grit and stub- bornness, during years when the Mexican Government could not protect them, and their own government would not. ‘The American settlements at Esperanza, where one of the greatest modern irriga- tion works in Mexico is in operation, are likewise being visited. Not threatened; just visited. SILVER BULLION LEFT UNGUARDED IN THE STREETS OF SAN “BLAS In San Blas, Sinaloa, a hand-organ be- gan to purvey mournful sounds, and a dry-river prospector and I drifted after It. He really liked the music. He had been up in the hills so long, where the music is that of dawn and dy namite, and the morning stars singing together and evening burros braying, that it sounded like grand opera to him. Back in California he has a large house filled with servants and guests in morning, afternoon, and evening clothes. The street sights drew me. A very handsome woman sat in the dust, her back against the wall, a little knee-high stand imecront, or Wer. ohe sold) oranges: at three for a cent, or some such trivial price. One of her eyes had been blacked, her feet were bare, and a rounded shoul- der showed through the rents in her sown. 482 AN UP-TO-DATE LAUNDRY IN CULIACAN Hard work takes the place of soap in Mexi- can laundry operations. The women take the soiled linen to the river bank and beat it upon the rocks until it is clean. The process is rather hard on the texture of the finer garments, but an extraordinary glistening whiteness is ob- tained. Burros swung around the corner, en- grossed in thought, as burros always are. Fach dragged a pair of small logs lashed to the pack-saddle. The keepers of the little eating stands at the station began to get ready for the day’s one train. Each had a tin which had once contained five gallons of gaso- line and out of which a tiny stove had been constructed. Two or three young Americans, grave, dusty, high-booted, re- volvered, marched down the street — young engineers, two years out of college. Three-inch Bain wagons jolted past in incredible noise and dust. They were drawn by oddly harnessed teams, four mules abreast on the pole and from six to ten as lead and swing teams. The white-hot sun burned deliciously upon our backs. It devoured the filth in THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE the streets, so that the only perceptible odor was of the fragrant oranges at the pretty woman’s stand, or the occasional acrid reek of a cigarette. A peon came out of a store with a bar of dirty white metal on his shoulder. He dumped it on a rough mat in the bottom of a wagon and wandered up the street. At intervals he reappeared with other bars, as we sat in the sun and talked of San Francisco and Washington and Paris. Then he went to a restaurant for his noon meal of beans and cakes. The bars were of silver. They would have been quite as safe if they had been gold, for there are conventions in crime. One does not steal bullion in the street nowadays. Bandits there are, of course. “Were,” corrected the dry-river pros- pector. \" \Werer, HOW A FORMER STEVEDORE PUT AN END TO BANDITRY General Flores had put an end to ban- ditry, it seemed. An extraordinary man. Ten years ago a stevedore at Mazatlan, unable to read and write. A power among his fellows because of his qualities of leadership and also because he was abso- lutely fair. He had fought his way up, by sheer military ability, coupled with ruthlessness, until now he is the military governor of the three States of Sonora, Sinaloa, and Nayarit. The State authorities in Sonora do not get on with him, and so he con- fines his operations to the other States. One heard of him everywhere. Always people said of Flores, ‘‘He is fair; abso- lutely fair.” He had stopped banditism in a way of his own. -In the United States we chase bandits when they break into a bank or hold up a train. It makes excellent melo- drama and often we catch the bandits. Flores sent out cuidadors, which term might be translated as “care-takers,” who are really one-man field courts-martial. They pop into a village: in the early morning, accompanied by soldiers, who shoot at people who try to leave town through bypaths. They set up court in the plaza and send out their agents. “Get Juan,” they say, > |tian i simecter The evidence has already been collected ADVENTURING DOWN THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO 483 DYEWOOD CARTS FORDING THE RIVER AT CULIACAN The dyewood industry is a persistent one, although the unsettled condition of the past few years has held it in check. Culiacan. and passed on—the secret-service agents of Flores have attended to that. Juan is as good as dead when the sol- diers put their hands on him. He makes a few farewells, parcels out his fighting cocks among his friends, kisses his wife and babies, and walks to the wall. They always die bravely, said the dry-river prospector. In one village Flores had shot seven- teen bandits and in another thirty-two. One might ride through Sinaloa or Nayarit with gold pieces hung all over him nowadays. Banditry had practically disappeared. Up in one corner of Du- rango they still steal and kill, but that is outside of Flores’s jurisdiction. “But the cuidadors?” I asked. they always honest and fair?” “They had better be,’ said Dry River, grimly, “with Flores!’ One thinks of Kipling in the Fuerte River country. Perhaps the resemblances are only superficial, but they are at least striking. “Are In the distance may be seen the twin towers of the cathedral of The club at Los Mochis, which is a part of the Kipling analogy, is maintained for the employees of a great American ranch. Elsewhere in this delightful, but somewhat backward, land one may be compelled to subsist on frijoles and tor- tillas. A tortilla is a thin flapjack, made of the paste of corn which has been boiled first in limewater and then in a rinsing water, and which has then been ham- mered and rolled out on the metate, the grinding-stone, which has not been al- tered in the knowledge of history. Toasted tortillas are delicious, but the casual roadside tortilla has been merely dried to a sogginess on a tin plate, or on a stone propped in front of the fire. It pee unpleasantly of lime. The beans, of course, are always good; but one cannot live by beans alone. “Pork can be had if desired, but after having watched the Mexican pig in his daily pur- suits, I set my face against pork in Mex- ico. He is the companion and competitor 484 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE “TE WHO SLEEPS, EATS” IS A SPANISH PROVERB Many a man, in these latter days of unrest, has staved off the claims of appetite by sleeping on a park bench, warmed through by the generous sun. AN EVENING MEAL IN AN INDIAN HOME ADVENTURING DOWN THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO 485 Pm. THE BEAUTIFUL PANORAMA OF MAZATLAN This view, taken from a hill at the western end of the city of Mazatlan, gives a very good idea of the beauties of its harbor and of the protection which light-draft vessels may find there from any wind. Port improvements which will make this one of the fine harbors of the west coast are now contemplated (see page 496). of the buzzard. Not. only will he eat everything that the zopilotes will, and these indecent birds are official scavengers everywhere, but he usually beats the zo- pilotes to whatever there may be in the village. 7 The absolute chumminess of the Mex- ican pig, dog, and buzzard is dismaying. I do not wish even to argue the matter of pork. WANTED—A KIPLING FOR MEXICO Americans do not keep happy on beans and tortillas, and so the ranch manage- ment instituted the club. The married Americans live in rose-covered paradises at the farther end of vistas of palms. In this country flowers seem to grow all the year around. The Americans dress for dinner, and meet twice a week for dancing and bridge, now and then spending a week- end on a house-boat. Add the swarming natives in their thin cotton, paddling about barefooted, and ox-carts, donkeys, fine horses, and—if one is interested—alligators in the la- goons, bears in the mountains, and a bad cat the natives call a tiger. All the coun- try needs is a Kipling. All along the coast we had heard of the ranches at Los Mochis. There are rice ranches at Cajeme, in the edge of the Yaqui country, and banana ranches at San Blas, Nayarit, three hundred miles below, where Cortez once built ships with which to cruise the Pacific, and other ranches at every step between. But those at Los Mochis are the show-places. There are thousands of acres of sugar- cane and tomatoes and beans and alfalfa. The fences hereabouts are often made of the organ cactus. Riders through the bush use saddles made with a sort of bifurcated apron, which they throw over their knees for protection from the thorns and open out for coolness where no thorns are (see illustration, page 458). 486 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE THE TRUE STAFF OF LIFE IN MEXICO Wherever one goes in Mexico tortillas are stacked up awaiting purchasers, or are being eaten, or are in the course of preparation. A few centavos will buy a handful of these cakes of half-raw, lime-tasting dough. The appetite for them is distinctly an acquired one, but, once acquired, it stays on. There are few things more delicious than a tortilla that has been twice roasted, so that it breaks crisply in the fingers. ADVENTURING DOWN THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO Trains do not hurry away from the stations in this country. ‘The engineer whistles; then he whistles again. The sleepers who have been dozing alongside the track, in the shade of the cars, reluc- tantly rise. The roadside saleswomen put away their offerings of tomatoes, onions, coffee, cakes, and bread. The sucking of oranges begins again in the cars, along with gossip and cigarettes. Every one is friendly and happy. Some- times the train halts for a group of fren- zied riders to catch it through a mounting cloud of dust. The officers, in puttees and Sam Brown belts and revolvers, buy innumerable bottles of beer at a peso a bottle and gurgle it from the bottle mouth. Dust sweeps in through the open window. The man in the seat ahead carried a fish to the drinking-water tank and cleaned it. Then he wrapped it in wet grass and hung it to the coat-rack, so that it dripped upon his shoulder. Intimate domesticities are observed here and there. The woman in the seat behind obeyed at last the squalled remon- strances of a very hungry baby. From the ancient first-class car, in which one rode upon once-plush seats, I could see through the open doors into the third-class car ahead. ‘The Indians sat on backless benches,; worn smooth and beautifully colored by age and friction, and leaned forward, their beady eyes fixed unwinkingly on the gentlefolk in the first-class car. A sixteen-year-old girl changed her blouse and did up her hair. No one gave her a second glance or thought. At the wayside stations small naked babies pattered about. They were the most delightful little rascals, brown and fat and gay. The zopilotes abound. ‘They became an obsession of Adams. He was forever stalking these obscene birds; so that his collection of buzzard pictures is, perhaps, the finest in Christendom (see page 474). Hereabouts the Mayo Indians are the preferred laborers. ‘They may or may not be the remnant of the ancient Maya tribe, which built such superb monuments in Guatemala and Yucatan. It seems unlikely. The Maya civiliza- tion was of a rather high order, while 487 these squarely-built, strong, five-foot chaps seem stupid. They prefer not to live in houses, and many a time a ranch- man has established a new family in a good hut, to find them next morning crouched under a ragged blanket stretched upon a bush. The port.of Los Mochis is Topolo- bampo. Once it had hopes. That was when Americans planned to build a rail- road across the mountains from Kansas City. A pier was constructed, the rot- ting remains of which are still used when an occasional boat drifts into the little bay. A stub-end of railroad was built up the Fuerte River. It should have met the line which was being built through the mountains, south from the border, but by and by building stopped in the hills. All around Topolobampo is the weird, mysterious bush, through which one- mule-wide trails go winding. One won- ders what is at the other end of the trails—what can be at the other end. An occasional cow, bursting with fat- ness, crops her way through the jungle. Deer gaze mildly from the edge of the narrow clearing through which the rail- road runs. We hear of huge snakes— We refuse to listen to snake stories. SHRIMP SWEPT BY TIDE INTO MOSQUITO- INFESTED TRAPS The Indian meaning of Topolobampo is Tiger Water, so called because the de- clining rays of the sun, falling upon waters that swarm with golden shrimp, give the effect of a tiger’s skin mottled in purple and gilt and gray. Carloads of shrimp are sent from here during the season to the United States. They are caught in traps by heroic In- dians as the tide sweeps them on. The Indians are heroic, because no one else can resist the masses of mosquitoes that fight their way through the smoke of the smudge that is tied alongside the trap. The Indians work desperately with long poles “to poke the big fish off,’ as one shrimper explained. Our entrance to Culiacan still pleases me in retrospect; it was so unreal and stagy. We tumbled down an embank- ment that was fitfully lighted by tallow candles, the beams from the headlight, and the lanterns of the trainmen. Mig ate SO aypatnivitedo/ “Giga Kalle eC ; et; ince Albert BY ‘ ; ,. Land & 4 5 3 git! : of 4 a) oS lym, ) phan “e Me Shingy, oa, yn, % : is 2 Uh Or ; : : aya h 2 5 iS iRteshy Sound 9 4 d Umonak 5 oF Brewstgt : i Neo | . ( : SE.pawon Ty ; ee 6 zy S é we es ie a ‘oP = bien bacon cl af A iicner iV . Jaa SS, $ Ge fo : q @, i, ¢ . DPE i. 5 : AL > Funguyena : eis A a B. Shayne eha yg . 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PRIBILOF 16, < S i ji Tee08 poeta | (U.S. Gow poy ee PAUL OY Sa o “ ene agen of eo Ronin | ulf of Alaska F NM 3 ; E * at Qs ey tenses : ~_UNEA : ale ESR af ~ u j ee =< G . ‘ a a SNE ‘ A wwe VAR i at ee ; ane Pps Sos? ime Gee oe Ne (a hee 2, @ GoneKoran = = / ‘i eae 20 ™~ FOUR = naa ¥ i . i Fastoain ay: an > Se * ~ va BMG ser 2 py Df Boussore ganigy | : : 3 ‘ $ URUPPU e VANCOUVER : . 1 torofu Strait 4 a eset Strait of Juan de Fu INASHIRI] Senate Z a eopanaae y Skit Of KAIDe Stor, iS Ce TokachitVE20) 9 Xang et : ¢ A ‘© PERNUDAS Fonehal * (Pog.),4 i ‘ r = aE (Brits) { is ¢/ Me PA “OCEAN Bosanic® =.) PARRY GRoup S oni *Kweiyang / 3 OKINAWA 6S OGASAWARA le, a (an ays Kweili 7 Ww > GROUP @" BAILY 1S, fax unnanfu -weilin An 7 ie 2 ‘ € Solu ln 7 Mogador AeLolo b Beshar ‘Rf mrporrtayfa Ye Biel ree i slo.uTHyRN IS (s Ghadames ~~ z } z 5 ag Ania oR oz AA Wivackson 2 ES ZL Hf Hees uae oi 1 | a oe a x iran\ax viva A Yl a ee (las P Ne rtof lgidi i { 2 Nrownsvito Gulf of *VOLCANO Is, * Watamoros: 5 y C.Bojador] f * Gr . C.Sablpt Mexico xeywer 2 2: Flori PBATAN 18. © LOS JARDINES Balintang Channel QURRACAS te wo Msuilcion O® Acnican “RAGA ‘OKAUAI oO u NUIHAU! Sanu 4 Honolula sSymaur he ope dy ; 2° ‘ DBABUYAN 18, a <= es Bie gr * aes: : ra f * Cape Blanco ( : Tame? 5 * ard Catarach( yet ; Aas : Prunsinay 1. WAKE I. : . C.Corrientes oe 4 seid : ~S. o ae 2 WA Guts oF Mavirak 3 gu ontiAean Pp WS) HAWAII ‘| REVILAGIGEDO 18, Callig Portai P, >| Re z Comin f i : 1 eaalir Ros Madraka : gan | Ss ad . aes cs SORA Ma - a ons F Ss 4 i rhage oa) sumer eer 2 SE nara ‘ : eG te ao yeni ay Rodan CBE’ Regertene aed Se Ph _ Lingaye! 5 “otteoin = | See e oF ext? Sais NT AS = ase jmerenanbadaty SE } ANdicanch Sf kB tb: Avanoeoan (United States) Wut ; is oon Succes g 3 ios ="TAONGI 1, ST.VINCENT#IPQ BAL a ON: C.Gracias a Dios % _ “wbominica car.) CAPEVERDE I8- BIS ENIWEIOK 15¢C7 para ‘Tenass UF Of NS Aldi ,) Ton Degree Chan. : E @ KURIA MURIA IS. of ER & SD c pate | lls Stbat Brit.tp Aden) Sowvista Dak: J Le c 5 : z = ‘ (Port.% 6 a Ponvl akar, ; i Ss Si Shee EA S¥ARTINGUECEro ; ce i onan Z j j i oa se ‘amar Bay 3 f x ae Asean = etanraco_ c.Verdgh ast 5 5 Me’ =e ue 7 A : ; 5 NTILLES ; ‘ 4 4 pAbeshir 3 c Arahian CS ets a PN IOARSCUS Sy oo cv lINGBN TBS BARBADOS CBr.) Bathyest Sal J br N A Yao aN Te ner EL-Obel Si } oddhanS of . 3 Pe SSRN Biuefields : Poo ADACBr) Pe ones vrei 0”) ow: B % YW Nabu sole y A ‘ Gulf by ; LOOMS TATRA. Fe tad jOBAGOLBr.) 4 BolamB Ys cauryi.t | “BobolDinlaéso 56 Te Tite i i B’YF Bab ot Mow ia cee SC alas wyeyane 6. Bete { pe : ‘ f Y Pb TRINIDAD (Br) : eal 0 Se \ Been ripata, jy Noe Sef te) / s : ; totem Beng al N “ ; | GUPPERTON(A yf : 5 iNDajgeCarace Wy) 2 of the Orinoco Wad Fane vy Ich ) . ala D: ane tk 5 fe pi Strait ee : (Claimed by Franch.and! Mexico) ys eign 8 iO BBMD tu TW da3 ee 2 i Meri & i eucs 5 peace A | =< : tow D, 2} Aa x >, 2\ Bamingi ceRaga ae @Bnty> ede wachchiva IrALix SATAWAL © ‘ r KINGMAN REEF * eotqerst3) =a Kehants (eS (a é mare, iis ™ 7 i * ye 5 ea Ft. aS i oT 18, By See ; i v ar _ We ebeatnd x27 Baramaribo Y S { ues es] 0 GUBANGL HARI mv x om KU oevion CAchin) eae “ ‘ 7 Tee (Costa Rica) 5 3 Sota Ake ) FGayenne 4 Be de ORMEROONS) Be Sia MOFANNING 18- ’ : ANG, ppuenarentan ef bi ~V Ayeere ¢ Orange ol Bi] SE ee; Sf . ay > as fore Channel” i ao Colombia) Choco Bay 2X : Eden Mand. er ahes ~f leLanvs QS pDuonorAi 1: Japanese Ws { Doristmas - mana h 6 } Se Bem ee : e at LMAHERA, AY IB ZAGREENWICH |. Wan __ (Status!undetermined V.S.-Br.) 4 \ § 6 Do Nifotn y ~ S AGorontales > it aaceee Pee: PA) ae Sentai ea ene emo aH GILBERT \* iy eaken! (Status undeter : . a See Vents ~ x C~ Y {W_ Mouths of tho N D {Ae ie sTupT THEW ORNS DS S : d sa eae determined U.S.-Br.) Cum Eke f 4 = t a ‘A (PreAsant 1) Op PHOENDGS. Stabls undetermined U.S.-Br. mi MENTAWEN : i Peay ai : 2 eplian Mandate British Mandate g luanos ARE ees 9 ; B; G Ny _KASANOLE 16,2] : rics a ina a 3MINDANAO © . i : Koeta Radj a 4 PALMYRA (U.S) Morawhanna aS : 5 CAROL . KUSAIE €: (To Ceylon) Amazon Riper PERNANDINAR YC] SANTA CRUE Bahia datos a Geena \eASEL 5 CANTON =SENDERBURY 5 if So BISM. 8 dj - i Sea Benkoslen on. ; Gorse} G MC KEAN 2 “eS Gulf of Guinea oCHATHAM Caraques; i core yo! ; GALABAGOS 18, Manta Bay 1 ae tres os (Ecuador) Guaya 4 annoad® AL 5 Fant Vf o7tasrN., Gulf of Guayaquil ingonh 7 (Sp.) z ay \ BIRNIE ‘MALDEN 3 i : { Fo a GARDNER © 44,1 “SYDNEY __Paita ‘= s WV GAINVILCE De ‘STARBUCK Bay of Sechura), Bay! Seis ELLICE ISLANDS (Br its h) ee ieee Chiclayo ° vKuriva.. MARQUEGAS ISLANDS “UNION GROUP 2: TONGAREVA, brounny) © + ae R L Hf BOETON. y adie BUA | Y = WBanda Soa “of zg h Le an& ANS ; bE nen Ss 6 Q Seas oa . ace Bituge 10 DEES sip of ; ve oromon is. (Brvtrs h) ae os a : e oP BM Port Arafura|Sea ae GUADALCANAE CS U eo . 8 ne ALAITA cet ey, IMOR on Tot Si c. QJENTRECASTEAUX (8, C. Lopez 9, CHAGOS 2 “FATUHIVA (Br.) D ate fd b SCENSON | § ; Cates FLINT Y ISLANDS ~ 3 ANYIKAS.\ ie * \SEYCHELLES u ° fhs onl ENeA 1. é Rf ens : RAKAHANGAs UAPU® “a sivaoa oR [DOMINICA 7 ays GENTE VEANOE a MANAHIKU& VOSTOK x» 4CAROLINE ATOLL GUMBA OR : (De) y ae As 1 ee CuRISTHAS | satontnoae | o Akecopang ra MEMES get NG 4 Ss CO, SLOUISIADE > SAN ORISTOVAL o SANTA CRUZ IS- oaTAunsy AS . i RCHIPELAGO jenneL ‘ Timor Sea Q, Carns wef : C.Londongs Coral Sea . . onder, ‘ ape, Melville CAnglo-BF4nclD 4 AHIROA. 7S MANIHI* = it in COWARD) (C 7 EGPIRITU SANTO. oH Bie Ev 1B s & i ye Sarre ag ROWLEY We SHOALS ~. by Gtatus undetheminedlv,S-Br) | "Fri, New Zealan @SUYAROF IS. 4 ASN : “TN Diam N i, aes 5 | Kilwa Kivinje ' pili Sssusg .Delgado : Lobig A Fk bY 4 o —E Ss | A BELLINGHAUBEN Caen we, TUAMOTU La Gay a GLORIOSO IS, Benguela, , \ ! hbo ii i X FENUA URA > *. SISLANDS- ee ARCHIPELAGO (SCILLY 15.) = MOPEHA wooneals, HUON IS- TAHITI Se vavaul f BIE ON loon’ 3 xGROUP s ses aie ~ pELeris. & A (SAUCE 1.) Humijia Mossamedeslf - Se ( € f 8T-HELERA 1. 5 : y 5 is Gro d I oe 7) “AITUTAKL s @ MfoT ONG, AMERVEY GROUP NEW CALEDONIA s BARKOW I. COOK IS. ea SUAS MANUIKI7—~ MANGAIA = mpyrTaRA i f H, te TWN Qane: ORTHUMBERLAND IS, to + “ Exmouth Guy 1 Jt We seiwst,b 4 NORTH 1 aye vu . aot Tennant’s Creck® 4 rc CHESTERFIELD IS. " mi 5 ‘i dy Edith 6 \ \ondttgy e pawerén ancien Lady Edith oo \ TE RRITORW sy, K " Fee 2 N ‘9 WE (Ost MARY 1. 6 y Spy Kilimane . ve ‘Ourgs : i evo, é : U ‘ E al FRINIOAD I. ‘. “XBracil) TUBUAI OR AUSTAAL 18. “ENE ‘ ae ans a F PINES = : a . gies. > 1 CHENDERGON PITCAIRN © =oucie SALA Y GOMEZ rence abe: Ala} : (F i fac rey ‘ er Rs" ay WEES (cea ' ie OiGncar savor te a . ¢ : faryborough f ‘ Sharka Bay, R : fi eS i = ej Bs - 3 oe de J. 59, E a ile) ; (x s 8, Th pink HARTOS 1. VY RODRIGUEZ IS. sh E ; Y i zo (Br.) Swakopmund | é Yea, fan Walvis Bay PF eiro Walvis Bay pt.Danger ~\ sNonFOLK jsmore Wa : Se aS * ¢-;eTourenco Marques si ‘ort Dauphin : ay 5 ant Dilagoa Bay Ste. Marie } a Ezy Sone iy = eo 5 a = 4 fl : Z i coe Patos Le f : Be feswaoee J oa — Ue goons worth gare e1oR0 HOWE Ns g : : i = a Perth \ < 5 : i si W, ; land s a > Z Pt.da Barra JUAN FERNANDEZ 18+ K . b Las ewcastle Fremantle : N (Chile) Pee cts Sy Rca Urn ’ \ ee cal Port Shenstone | any @ Cis al +eet ation: y re Car Folate E inclosed by colored stripes. : he NationallG nie Society, Washi De Desole y ED PS ae Copyright, 1922, by the National Geograp’ 7, Washington, D. C. ENG IES SS ae Worthet 150° 120° 90° FALKLAND IS. Br.) Engraved and Printed at the Matthews-Northrup Works, Buffalo, N. Y. ‘This Map is drawn on Van der Grinten Projection Protected by Letters Patent No. 751,226 U. 8. Patent Officeand in Canada No. 86,130 E SANDWICH “SAUNDERG 1, =" GRou; / Vv 4 v Pe = MONTAGUE 1. BA BRISTOL }. vee 80TH A nen CORONATION 1, THULE: aot eS ecepHa ‘“ me = & ORIE 1. : O SHETLANDIs~ . poe yw © SAE Alp LAN TIO)" 50 \ SAW Y é ; ce Somrn L \ \ : g 59) SARGASSO SEALY 6 ‘4 S a eu 2 Br la c, ‘ aD Ano LM § a ae Y : sae) = 7-3 iA 7 foediele ~eseieatt Re 2 Fie At eee ie 0 fad a TER 1. ISLAND. EXANDER a eter Tay fs ES a Nt naan ee ea fi ATURAL VEGETATION AND OCEAN CURRENTS 7 DENSITY OF POPULATION Ns AND PREVAILING WINDS ~ Uninhabited 4 -s J Regions BN Borests oc asyerunire, Mt. : ; / [beml nce So errens aaa Peraave Es Gr Mt. |— | : ; | ~ s per Sa. ze ear eivation arctic Flora } e ) Ay, a oF i ; 100 15 4007 Sure Steppes and im egionD 0! 2 te Prairies: ‘Snow and Ics Y « : Ocean Currents: —>Warm ---Cold G a) cs ‘The direction of the currents is & : shown by the arrows: th pe | 2 = y wich 90, 160" Longitude 120", West_90%, from. 60°Grecnwich 30° = Longitude 30" fast from SU" Greens! J 100 to 400 Pers er Sq.mile bo! DE RD et 2 a q lOver 400 Persons por Sq.mile ‘Arrows: indicute direction of | : 7 AE prevailing Winds a) e ESSE AT ore eins = ft one thney ot provaling ‘Lonzitude East 120° ‘for 160° ong "150" a 7 + le ma 0" Greenwich 180° Longitudel50" West 120° from _90°GreenwichG0" 30° East from. 60° Greenwich 180° Longitude 7 West 16° from 8 Greenwich 150° 9° LongitudelSwest 75° fromI4Greenwich 60 ¥ YO Dongieude 120° Bast froma 10e 90° 1 g 2 120° 3 15° 4 150° Longitude 5 East gs? from © Greenwich 30° | Longitude 21 East 45° from 24Greenwich 60 24 a i nam OEY 124 ah eH) 8 re wee et MOM ry ba bY (diane sen pee era "Gres i PhS ean uhh | Me x cy] l ikl | Ki ps h i THE NATIONAL GEO GRAPH MAGAZ] JULY, 1922 bth ee Ter eral line MN ) ir ‘A baat Pry ip N ill TTA E riineednwcnnl leslie Doerr hah Th bnnminlnnil nihil cy oat itn - 7 Yi," . aailtinet tint CONTENTS Cathedrals of the Old and New World With 50 Full-page Illustrations J. BERNARD WALKER Camargue, the Cowboy Country of Southern France With 34 Illustrations DR. ANDRE VIALLES » ‘Dp, niindalinell\ineiiiniey WW ~ Midsummer Wild Flowers 38 Species Illustrated in Full Color D ( PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL WASHINGTON, D.C. GILBERT GROSVENOR, President JOHN JOY EDSON, Treasurer BOYD TAYLOR, Assistant Treasurer NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY GEOGRAPHIC ADMINISTRATION BUILDINGS SIXTEENTH AND M STREETS NORTHWEST, WASHINGTON, D.C. HENRY WHITE, Vice-President O. P. AUSTIN, Secretary GEORGE W. HUTCHISON, Associate Secretary FREDERICK V. COVILLE, Chairman Committee on Research EDWIN P. GROSVENOR, General Counsel EXECUTIVE STAFF OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE GILBERT GROSVENOR, EDITOR JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE, Associate Editor WILLIAM J. SHOWALTER Assistant Editor CHARLES J. BELL President American Security and Trust Company JOHN JOY EDSON Chairman of the Board, Wash- ington Loan & Trust Company DAVID FAIRCHILD In Charge of Agricultural Ex- plorations, U. 5. Department of Agriculture Cc. HART MERRIAM Member National Academy of Sciences O. P. AUSTIN Statistician GEORGE R. PUTNAM Commissioner U. S. Bureau of Lighthouses GEORGE SHIRAS, 3p Formerly Member U. S. Con gress, Faunal Naturalist, and Wild-game Photographer E. LESTER JONES Director U. S. Coast and Geo- detic Survey RALPH A. GRAVES Assistant Editor J. R. HILDEBRAND, Chief of School Service BOARD OF TRUSTEES WILLIAM HOWARD TAFT Chief Justice of the United States GRANT SQUIRES Military Intelligence Division, General Staff, New York C. M. CHESTER Rear Admiral U. S. Navy, For- merly Supt. U. S. Naval Ob- servatory FREDERICK V. COVILLE Botanist, U. S. Department of Agriculture RUDOLPH KAUFFMANN Managing Editor The [Evening Star T. L. MACDONALD IMIS ID. 8g VANS (Cy Se So NEE DSeNO RAED Formerly Director U. S. Bureau of Census JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE Associate Editor National Geo- graphic Magazine ORGANIZED FOR “THE INCREASE AND DIFFUSION OF GEOGRAPHIC KNOWLEDGE” FRANKLIN LL. FISHER | Chief of Illustrations Division ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL Inventor of the telephone J. HOWARD GORE Prof. Emeritus Mathematics, The George Washington University A. W. GREELY Arctic Explorer, Major General U. S. Army GILBERT GROSVENOR Editor of National Geographic Magazine GEORGE OTIS SMITH Director of U. S. Geological Survey O. H. TITTMANN Formerly Superintendent U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey HENRY WHITE Member American Peace Com- mission, Formerly U. S. Ambas- sador to France, Italy, ete. STEPHEN T. MATHER Director National Park Service TO carry out the purposes for which it was founded thirty-four years ago, the Na- tional Geographic Society publishes this Magazine. All receipts are invested in the Magazine itself or ex- pended directly to promote geographic knowledge. ARTICLES and photographs are desired. For material which the Magazine can use, generous remuneration is made. Contributions should be accompanied by an addressed return envelope and postage. IMMEDIATELY after the terrific eruption of the world’s largest crater, Mt. Katmai, in Alaska, a National Geographic Society expedition was sent to make observations of this remarkable phenom- enon. Four expeditions have followed and the extra- ordinary scientific data resultant given to the world. In this vicinity an eighth wonder of the world was discovered and explored—‘“‘The Valley of Ten Thou- sand Smokes,’’ a vast area of steaming, spouting fissures. As a result of The Society’s discoveries this area has been created a National Monument by proc- lamation of the President of the United States. AT an expense of over $50,000 The Society sent a notable series of expeditions into Peru to investigate the traces of the Inca race. ‘Their discoveries form a large share of our knowledge of a civilization which was waning when Pizarro first set foot in Peru. THE Society also had the honor of sub- scribing a substantial sum to the historic expedition of Admiral Peary, who discovered the North Pole. NOT long ago The Society granted $25,000, and_in addition $75,000 was given by in- dividual members through The Society to the Federal Government when the congressional appropriation for the purchase was insufficient, and the finest of the giant sequoia trees of California were thereby saved for the American people and incorporated into a National Park. THE Society is conducting extensive ex- plorations and excavations in northwestern New Mexico, which was one of the most densely - populated areas in North America before Columbus came, a region where prehistoric peoples lived in vast communal dwellings whose ruins are ranked second to none of ancient times in point of architecture, and whose customs, ceremonies and name have been engulfed in an oblivion more complete than any other people who left traces comparable to theirs. Copyright, 1922, by National Geographic Society, Washington, D. C. All rights reserved. Entered at the Post-Office at Washington, D. C., as Second-Class Mail Matter. age provided for in Sec. 1103, Act of October 3, 1917, authorized July 1, 1918. Acceptance for mailing at special rate of post- > ) <=> Far from injuring rugs, The oover actually preserves their beauty: We guarantee it to add years to their life Why Take a Day to Clean House? Why should you still devote a day of hard work, every week, to the cleaning of your home? Why ‘should you tire yourself out, fill your lungs with dust and forego recreation—when so many other women have Hoovers? It seems hardly fair. For you, too, could quickly, pleasantly and easily dispose of your cleaning, if you had a Hoover. Without causing backache or scattering dust, this efficient cleaner sweeps up the stubbornest clinging litter! Harmlessly it beats out of rug depths the hidden, germ-laden, nap-wearing dirt that otherwise escapes removal. In addition, it erects crushed nap, freshens colors and powerfully suction cleans—all in one rapid, dustless opera- tion which prolongs the life of rugs. Easily connected air-cleaning attach- ments, of convenient new design, are provided to do your dusting dustlessly. Phone any Tel-U-Where Information Bureau, any Hoover Branch Office, or write us for names of Authorized Dealers who gladly give free home demonstrations. On our convenient payment plan, 23c a day soon pays for a Hoover. Made in three sizes, each moderately priced. THE Hoover SucrTion SWEEPER COMPANY The oldest and largest makers of electric cleaners Factories at North Canton, Ohio, and Hamilton, Canada It BEATS. as it i Sesh as 1t Cleans PRESS OF JUDD & DETWEILER, INC, WASHINGTON, D. C. Sryy LET experts Sy D | claim that the / i d | average person’ © eats entirely too much refined food ‘now- adays — food lackfig, in vital mineral salts. ake 3) Also, that the average man, woman and child eats too much soft, pasty food—food that can be swallowed whole —that robs the teeth and jaws of their proper task of grinding the food and pre- paring it for digestion. The result is that a perfect set of teeth in a child more than 8 years of age is uncommon. And a perfect set of nerves in a man or woman of 30 or more is almost as rare. Your doctor can tell you that your physical well-being, as well as the strength and vitality of your nervous system, is largely a matter of food. This is why it is so important for parents to establish a correct diet in the formative period of their child’s life—at the time of the child’s most rapid growth. What to Give the Children to Build Them Up One of the best and most complete foods you _could possibly give to children is Grape-Nuts—the rich, cereal food made from whole wheat flour and malted barley. Grape-Nuts contains calcium, potassium, mag- “'There’s a Reason” for GRAPE-NUTS Made by Postum Cereal Co., Inc., Battle Creek, Michigan Is it the fault of the parents when children do not have good teeth ? nesium, iron, phosphorus and other mineral ele- ments that go to build up ~ sound teeth and bones,and ~ sure, steady nerves. Eaten with cream or milk, to supply the neces- sary fat, Grape-Nuts is a complete food—filling every requirement of tooth, bone, nerve and muscle building. The crisp, nourishing granules of Grape-Nuts © afford the teeth and gums the proper, normal exer- — cise that they require, if the teeth are to remain sound and healthy. Because of its vital mineral salts, and because it stimulates proper mas- tication, Grape-Nuts is © one of the best foods for developing and preserving the teeth. A Delicious Nut-Sweet Flavor And please do not overlook the fact that the © world-wide popularity of Grape-Nuts is due equally to its delicious nut-sweet flavor and crispness and — its satisfying wholesomeness. Go to your grocer today and order a package of Grape-Nuts. Serve it with milk or cream for | breakfast. Or with sliced peaches or stewed fruit, for a luncheon dish. Or make up a delicious, ap- petizing Grape-Nuts pudding for supper, that every member of the family will relish. Grape-Nuts can be had in the leading clubs, hotels, restaurants and lunch rooms throughout America. And it’s the same Grape-Nuts you get in the Yellow package from your grocer. II “ re it Z > GE =H: THE NATIONA L GEOGRAPHIC | MAGAZINE CONTENTS Den treme hme A i wilt ¥ Ati Mine mH m neilinlieealineedlnl eas sau tl et \ ¥, . Hinatt hi Denmark and the Danes With 39 Illustrations MAURICE FRANCIS EGAN The Fight at the Timber-Line With 32 Illustrations JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE Views of the Lincoln Memorial Eight Full-page Engravings The Arctic as an Air Route of the Future With 9 Illustrations VILHJALMUR STEFANSSON PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL WASHINGTON, D.C. ———— na GILBERT GROSVENOR, President JOHN JOY EDSON, Treasurer BOYD TAYLOR, Assistant Treasurer NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY GEOGRAPHIC ADMINISTRATION BUILDINGS SIXTEENTH AND M STREETS NORTHWEST, WASHINGTON, D.C. HENRY WHITE, Vice-President O. P. AUSTIN, Secretary GEORGE W. HUTCHISON, Associate Secretary FREDERICK V. COVILLE, Chairman Committee on Research EXECUTIVE STAFF OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE EDWIN P. GROSVENOR, General Counsel GILBERT GROSVENOR, EDITOR JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE, Associate Editor WILLIAM J. SHOWALTER Assistant Editor CHARLES J. BELL RALPH A. ; Assistant Editor J. R. HILDEBRAND, Chief of School Service BOARD OF TRUSTEES WILLIAM HOWARD TAFT GRAVES FRANKLIN L. FISHER Chief of Illustrations Division ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL President American Security and Chief Justice of the United States Inventor of the telephone rust C awe GRANT SQUIRES J. HOWARD GORE JOHN JOY EDSON Military Intelligence Division, Prof. Emeritus Mathematics, The Chairman of the Board, Wash- ington Loan & Trust Company DAVID FAIRCHILD General Staff, New York CME CHESTER George Washington University A. W. GREELY In Charge of Agricultural Ex- Rear Admiral U. S. Navy, For- Arctic Explorer, Major General plorations, U. 5S. Department of Agriculture Cc. HART MERRIAM Member National Academy of 4 Sciences Agriculture Os IPs AWS ON) servatory merly Supt. U. S. Naval Ob- FREDERICK V. COVILLE Botanist, U. S. Department of Magazine RUDOLPH KAUFFMANN U. S. Army GILBERT GROSVENOR Editor of National Geographic GEORGE OTIS SMITH Director of U. S. Geological Statistician Managing Editor The Evening Survey Star GEORGE R. PUTNAM Commissioner U. S. Bureau of T. L. MACDONALD Lighthouses GEORGE SHIRAS, 3p Formerly Member U. S. Con S. N. D. NORTH O. H. TITTMANN Formerly Superintendent U. S. MaDe HEAT eS. Coast and Geodetic Survey HENRY WHITE gress, Faunal Naturalist, and Formerly Director U. S. Bureau Member American Peace Com- Wild-game Photographer of Census FE. LESTER JONES mission, Formerly U. S. Ambas- sador to France, Italy, etc. JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE Director U. S. Coast and Geo- Associate Editor National Geo. STEPHEN T. MATHER detic Survey TO carry out the purposes for which it was founded thirty-four years ago, the Na- tional Geographic Society publishes this Magazine. All receipts are invested in the Magazine itself or ex- pended directly to promote geographic knowledge. ARTICLES and photographs are desired. For material which the Magazine can use, generous remuneration is made. Contributions should be accompanied by an addressed return envelope and postage. IMMEDIATELY after the terrific eruption of the world’s largest crater, Mt. Katmai, in Alaska, a National Geographic Society expedition was sent to make observations of this remarkable phenom- enon. Four expeditions have followed and the extra- ordinary scientific data resultant given to the world. In this vicinity an eighth wonder of the world was discovered and explored—“‘The Valley of Ten Thou- sand Smokes,’? a vast area of steaming, spouting fissures. As a result of The Society’s discoveries this area has been created a National Monument by proc- lamation of the President of the United States. AT an expense of over $50,000 The Society sent a notable series of expeditions into Peru to investigate the traces of the Inca race. Their graphic Magazine ORGANIZED FOR “THE INCREASE AND DIFFUSION OF GEOGRAPHIC KNOWLEDGE” Director National Park Service discoveries form a large share of our knowledge of a civilization which was waning when Pizarro first set foot in Peru. THE Society also had the honor of sub- scribing a substantial sum to the historic expedition of Admiral Peary, who discovered the North Pole. NOT long ago The Society granted $25,000, and in addition $75,000 was given by in- dividual members through The Society to the Federal Government when the congressional appropriation for the purchase was insufficient, and the finest of the giant sequoia trees of California were thereby saved for the American people and incorporated into a National Park. THE Society is conducting extensive ex- plorations and excavations in northwestern New Mexico, which was one of the most densely populated areas in North America before Columbus came, a region where prehistoric peoples lived in vast communal dwellings whose ruins are ranked second to none of ancient times in point of architecture, and whose customs, ceremonies and name have been engulfed in an oblivion more complete than any other people who left traces comparable to theirs. Copyright, 1922, by National Geographic Society, Washington, D. C. All rights reserved. Entered at the Post-Office at Washington, D. C., as Second-Class Mail Matter. Acceptance for mailing at special rate of post- age provided for in Sec. 1103, Act of October 3, 1917, authorized July 1, 1918. Have Poise and Self-Confidence — wherever you go EOPLE do look at you critically; but if you know that you look your best, you will have more poise and self- confidence, no matter where you may find yourself. Think of some particularly attractive girl. What feature quickly comes to mind? Isn’t it her hair? Healthy, lustrous hair is your birthright. If your hair is dry and brittle it is neither healthy nor attractive. If it breaks easily and splits at the ends—if it is too oily, or if you are troubled with dandruff, you cannot expect your hair to look its best. In the care of your hair, you will find Packer’s Liquid Tar Soap cleansing, soothing and stimulating to the scalp. And you will enjoy its new, delicate fragrance. : Follow these directions and health and beauty such as you never thought possible should come to your hair. The Popular Packer Method Wet the hair with warm water. Develop a lather with Packer’s Liquid Tar Soap— adding soap or water as needed. Work the lather in thoroughly. Then rinse in warm water. Now as the scalp pores are cleansed, it will be found advantageous to work up a fresh lather, N Cw Yj Yj Wy using very little soap. Massage this in well. Rinse and dry with warm towel. Avoid use of in- tense heat or direct rays of the sun. How often should you sham- poo? Normally, a woman should shampoo every’ two weeks; a man, every week. Sometimes—for instance, if dandruff is severe—more fre- quent shampooing is necessary. You will find more detailed in- formation in the Packer Man- ual, sent free on request. To those with Blond Hair Light hair grows darker year by year. Blond hair, particu- larly, must be kept clean and free from too much oil. Oily hair looks darker than it really is. Blondes use Packer’s Liquid. Tar Soap because it does not darken their hair, but helps to keep it clean. You will find the large 6- ounce bottle of Packer’s Liquid Tar Soap at your druggist’s and at toilet-goods counters. See our special sample offer at the right. Tue Packer MFca. Co., INC., Dept. 90H, 120 West 32d Street, New York City Canadian Wholesale Distributors: Lymans, Limited, Montreal; The Lyman Bros. & Co., Ltd., Toronto PACKER’S LIQUID TAR SOAP PRESS OF JUDD & DETWEILER, INC. WASHINGTON. D C. Painted by A. 1. Keller for The Packer Mfz. Co., Ine. Special Care Needed at the Seashore Salt water and glaring sunshine fade and streak the hair and cause it to lose its lustre. Should your hair get wet with salt water, do not dry it before rinsing thor- oughly in clear, fresh water. Follow with your Packer shampoo. It will remove every trace of salt and sand and help keep your hair in normal, healthy condition. Never dry your hair in the sun. Hot sunlight destroys the natural oils. Special Sample Offer Send 25c for these 3 samples or toc for any One of them: Packer’s Liquid ‘Tar Soap—delightfully per- fumed—liberal sample bottle—troc. Packer’s Tar Soap— America’s favorite shampoo cake — half cake sample—troc. Packer’s Charm —it soothes and smoothes the skin—sample bot- tle—roe. Also send for the Packer Manual, “How to Care for the Hair and Scalp,’’ 32 inter- esting pages. It’s free. Save the Life . ~ Tooth Enamel *‘Wash’’— Don’t Scratch or Scour Teeth . COLGATE’S Cleans Téeth “' the Right Way “Washes” and Polishes— Doesn’t Scratch or Scour IT IS A DOUBLE ACTION DENTIFRICE: (1) Loosens clinging par- ticles. (2) Washes them away. Sensible in Theory Colgate’s Ribbon Dental Cream cleanses without dis- turbing Nature’s balance. ciably acid. Correct in Practice Authorities agree that a den- tifrice should do only one thing—clean teeth thorough- ly. Colgate’s does this bet- ter than any other dentifrice. NRITTY, soapless tooth pastes may | show quick results. If you scour away your skin, Nature can replace it, but Nature will not replace tooth enamel once it has been worn away by gritty, soapless tooth pastes. COLGATE & CO. Established 1806 NEW YORK =e Colgate’s cleans teeth thor- oughly—no dentifrice does more. A LARGE tube — a —~_E Eee ol ites ULI A re mn UT a ‘ 4 . . wwe r) SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS IN FULL COLOR A Longitudinal Journey Through Chile With 61 Illustrations HARRIET CHALMERS ADAMS Some Aspects of Rural Japan With 12 Illustrations WALTER WESTON The Picturesque Side of Japanese Life Sixteen Illustrations in Full Color Alexander Graham Bell Map-Changing Medicine With 26 Illustrations WILLIAM JOSEPH SHOWALTER PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL WASHINGTON, D.C. yy | a Dstt or ’ oul, id il \ mull y NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY GEOGRAPHIC ADMINISTRATION BUILDINGS SIXTEENTH AND M STREETS NORTHWEST, WASHINGTON, D.C. GILBERT GROSVENOR, President JOHN JOY EDSON, Treasurer BOYD ‘TAYLOR, Assistant Treasurer HENRY WHITE, Vice-President O. P. AUSTIN, Secretary GEORGE W. HUTCHISON, Associate Secretary FREDERICK V. COVILLE, Chairman Committee on Research EDWIN P. GROSVENOR, General Counsel EXECUTIVE STAFF OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE GILBERT GROSVENOR, EDITOR JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE, Associate Editor WILLIAM J. SHOWALTER Assistant Editor RALPH A. GRAVES Assistant Editor FRANKLIN LL. FISHER Chief of Illustrations Division J. R. HILDEBRAND, Chief of School Service CHARLES J. BELL President American Security and Trust Company JOHN JOY EDSON Chairman of the Board, Wash- ington Loan & Trust Company DAVID FAIRCHILD In Charge of Agricultural Ex- plorations, U. S. Department of Agriculture Cc. HART MERRIAM Member National Academy of Sciences Oo. P. AUSTIN Statistician GEORGE R. PUTNAM Commissioner U. S. Bureau of Lighthouses GEORGE SHIRAS, 3p Formerly Member U. S. Con gress, Faunal Naturalist, and Wild-game Photographer FE. LESTER JONES Director U. S. Coast and Geo- detic Survey BOARD OF TRUSTEES WILLIAM HOWARD TAFT Chief Justice of the United States GRANT SQUIRES Military Intelligence Division, General Staff, New York Cc. M. CHESTER Rear Admiral U. S. Navy, For- merly Supt. U. S. Naval Ob- servatory FREDERICK V. COVILLE Botanist, U. S. Department of Agriculture RUDOLPH KAUFFMANN Managing Editor The Evening Star T. L. MACDONALD MirDreAn Ce S52 SNe De NORE Formerly Director U. S. Bureau of Census JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE Associate Editor National Geo- graphic Magazine ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL Inventor of the telephone J. HOWARD GORE Prof. Emeritus Mathematics, The George Washington University A. W. GREELY Arctic Explorer, Major General U. S. Army GILBERT GROSVENOR Editor of National Geographic Magazine GEORGE OTIS SMITH Director of. U. S. Geological Survey O. H. TITTMANN Formerly Superintendent U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey HENRY WHITE Member American Peace Com- mission, Formerly U. S. Ambas- sador to France, Italy, etc. STEPHEN T. MATHER Director National Park Service ORGANIZED FOR “THE INCREASE AND DIFFUSION OF GEOGRAPHIC KNOWLEDGE” TO carry out the purposes for which it was founded thirty-four years ago, the Na- tional Geographic Society publishes this Magazine. All receipts are invested in the Magazine itself or ex- pended directly to promote geographic knowledge. ARTICLES and photographs are desired. For material which the Magazine can use, generous remuneration is made. Contributions should be accompanied by an addressed return envelope and postage. IMMEDIATELY after the terrific eruption of the world’s largest crater, Mt. Katmai, in Alaska, a National Geographic Society expedition was sent to make observations of this remarkable phenom- enon. Four expeditions have followed and the extra- ordinary scientific data resultant given to the world. In this vicinity an eighth wonder of the world was discovered and explored—“‘The Valley of Ten Thou- sand Smokes,’? a vast area of steaming, spouting fissures. As a result of The Society’s discoveries this area has been created a National Monument by proc- lamation of the President of the United States. AT an expense of over $50,000 The Society sent a notable series of expeditions into Peru to investigate the traces of the Inca race. ‘Their discoveries form a large share of our knowledge of a civilization which was waning when Pizarro first set foot in Peru. THE Society also had the honor of sub- scribing a substantial sum to the historic expedition of Admiral Peary, who discovered the North Pole. NOT long ago The Society granted $25,000, and in addition $75,000 was given by in- dividual members through The Society to the Federal Government when the congressional appropriation for the purchase was insufficient, and the finest of the giant sequoia trees of California were thereby saved for the American people and incorporated into a National Park. THE Society is conducting extensive ex- plorations and excavations in northwestern New Mexico, which was one of the most densely populated areas in North America before Columbus came, a region where prehistoric peoples lived in vast communal dwellings whose ruins are ranked second to none of ancient times in point of architecture, and whose customs, ceremonies and name have been engulfed in an oblivion more complete than any other people who left traces comparable to theirs. Copyright, 1922, by National Geographic Society, Washington, D. C. All rights reserved. Entered at the Post-Office at Washington, D. C., as Second-Class Mail Matter. Acceptance for mailing at special rate of post- age provided for in Sec. 1103, Act of October 3, 1917, authorized July 1, 1918. ar Hotels, Clubs, Offices, Large Residences, ete. Wherever carpetings are luxuriously deep and hard to clean, many in number, or exposed to continual traffic, a radically better, faster and cheaper Ae BARS method of cleaning them is introduced by this eye wonderful new big Hoover. as it Cleans There is nothing to rival it at any price! It is virtually ‘‘fool-proof.”” It is built for continu- ous hard work and rough usage. No oiling is ever necessary. For it has a dustproof, i rm ball bearing motor. This motor also runs, without it vi change, at uniform speed on either alternating or i direct current, a revolutionary achievement. (3) The new Hoover is simplicity itself. Ordinary help can easily operate it. Extremely strong suction is provided for the air-cleaning attachments. fl yw Many other new, exclusive features distinguish it. We guarantee this Hoover to thoroughly beat, sweep and suction clean even the thickest rugs, and to add years to the life and beauty of a// rugs. In this manner, and through reduced labor costs, its moderate cost will be saved over and over again. Have an immediate demonstration! Phone any Hoover Branch Office, or write us for names of Authorized Dealers. ‘The Hoover also comes in two smaller sizes. 17c to 23c a day soon pays for one, on the divided payment plan. Tue Hoover SucTion SWEEPER COMPANY The oldest and largest makers of electric cleaners Factories at North Canton, Ohio, and Hamilton, Canada PRESS OF JUDD & DETWEILER, Inc. WASHINGTON, D. C. Motor Mate of the CVilvertown Cord | What Silvertown is to tires, Silver- town is to tubes, for all that Silvertown means in a cord tire, Silvertown means in this new and | unusual red tube. | It is the de luxe tube for any tire, made for those motorists who are willing to pay a little more for a tube that is extra fine. The Silvertown is an unusually thick, heavy duty tube. The very feel and | stretch of its velvety red rubber gives ; you confidence in it. Goodrich Dealers have the new Silver- | town Tube in all sizes. THE B. F. GOODRICH RUBBER COMPANY Akron, Ohio CONTENTS 22erost SPECIAL MAP SUPPLEMENT—AFRICA (Size, 32 x 28) Transporting a Navy Through the Jungles of Africa in War Time With 31 Illustrations FRANK J. MAGEE, R. N. V. R. Peoples and Places of Northern Africa Sixteen Full-page Engravings Along the Nile, Through Egypt and the Sudan With 29 Illustrations FREDERICK SIMPICH The Land of the Free in Africa With 22 Illustrations African Scenes from the Equator to the Cap Sixteen Full-page Engravings ; Our New Map of Africa PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL WASHINGTON, D.C. HARRY A. McBRIDE i S = AY} Bsn mtn Hiei aN Mon rr tN , a 4 odnelly. GILBERT GROSVENOR, President JOHN JOY EDSON, Treasurer BOYD ‘TAYLOR, Assistant Treasurer NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY GEOGRAPHIC ADMINISTRATION BUILDINGS SIXTEENTH AND M STREETS NORTHWEST, WASHINGTON, D.C. HENRY WHITE, Vice-President O. P. AUSTIN, Secretary GEORGE W. HUTCHISON, Associate Secretary FREDERICK V. COVILLE, Chairman Committee on Research EDWIN P. GROSVENOR, General Counsel EXECUTIVE STAFF OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE GILBERT GROSVENOR, EDITOR JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE, Associate Editor WILLIAM J. SHOWALTER Assistant Editor BOARD CHARLES J ~BELE President American Security and Trust Company JOHN JOY EDSON Chairman of the Board, Wash- ington Loan & Trust Company DAVID FAIRCHILD In Charge of Agricultural Ex- plorations, U. S. Department of Agriculture Military servatory RALPH A. GRAVES Assistant Editor "J. R. HILDEBRAND, Chief of School Service OF TRUSTEES WILLIAM HOWARD TAFT Chief Justice of the United States GRANT SQUIRES Intelligence General Staff, New York Cc. M. CHESTER Rear Admiral U. S. merly Supt. U. S. FRANKLIN L. FISHER Chief of Illustrations Division ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL Inventor of the telephone J. HOWARD GORE Prof. Emeritus Mathematics, The George Washington University A. W. GREELY Arctic Explorer, Major General U. S. Army. GILBERT GROSVENOR Division, Navy, For- Naval Ob- Cc, HART MERRIAM FREDERICK V. COVILLE Editor of National Geographic Member National Academy of Botanist, U. S. Department of Magazine Sciences Agriculture GEORGE OTIS SMITH O. P. AUSTIN RUDOLPH KAUFFMANN Director of U. S. Geological Statistician Managing Editor The Evening Survey SE GEORGE R. PUTNAM a Commissioner U. S. Bureau of Lighthouses GEORGE SHIRAS, 3p Formerly Member U. S. Con gress, Faunal Naturalist, and Wild-game Photographer E. LESTER JONES Director U. S. Coast and Geo- of Census detic Survey TO carry out the purposes for which it was founded thirty-four years ago, the Na- tional Geographic Society publishes this Magazine. All receipts are invested in the Magazine itself or ex- pended directly to promote geographic knowledge. ARTICLES and photographs are desired. For material which the Magazine can use, generous remuneration is made. Contributions should be accompanied by an addressed return envelope and postage. IMMEDIATELY after the terrific eruption of the world’s largest crater, Mt. Katmai, in Alaska, a National Geographic Society expedition was sent to make observations of this remarkable phenom- enon. Four expeditions have followed and the extra- ordinary scientific data resultant given to the world. In this vicinity an eighth wonder of the world was discovered and explored—‘“‘The Valley of Ten Thou- sand Smokes,’ a vast area of steaming, spouting fissures. As a result of The Society’s discoveries this area has been created a National Monument by proc- lamation of the President of the United States. AT an expense of over $50,000 The Society sent a notable series of expeditions into Their Peru to investigate the traces of the Inca race. T. L. MACDONALD MD. EATS Ss: S. N. D. NORTH Formerly Director U. S. Bureau ORGANIZED FOR “THE INCREASE AND DIFFUSION OF GEOGRAPHIC KNOWLEDGE” O. H. TITTMANN Formerly Superintendent U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey HENRY WHITE Member American Peace Com- mission, Formerly U. S. Ambas- sador to France, Italy, etc. STEPHEN T. MATHER Director National Park Service JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE Associate Editor National Geo- graphic Magazine discoveries form a large share of our knowledge of a civilization which was waning when Pizarro first set foot in Peru. THE Society also had the honor of sub- scribing a substantial sum to the historic expedition of Admiral Peary, who discovered the North Pole. NOT long ago The Society granted $25,000, and in addition $75,000 was given by in- dividual members through The Society to the Federal Government when the congressional appropriation for the purchase was insufficient, and the finest of the giant sequoia trees of California were thereby saved for the American people and incorporated into a National Park. THE Society is conducting extensive ex- plorations and excavations in northwestern | New Mexico, which was one of the most densely populated areas in North America before Columbus came, a region where prehistoric peoples lived in vast communal dwellings whose ruins are ranked second to none of ancient times in point of architecture, and whose customs, ceremonies and name have been engulfed in an oblivion more complete than any other people who left traces comparable to theirs. Copyright, 1922, by National Geographic Society, Washington, D. C. All rights reserved. Entered at the Post-Office at Washington, D. C., as Second-Class Mail Matter. Acceptance for mailing at special rate of post- age provided for in Sec. 1103, Act of October 3, 1917, authorized July 1, 1918. Special | Sample Offer Send 2s5c for these 3 samples or 10c for any One of them. Packer’s Liquid Tar Soap (Packer’s Sham- poo) delightfully per- fumed—liberal sample bottle, roc. Packer’s Tar Soap— America’s favorite shampoo cake, gener- ous sample cake, toc. Packer’s Charm—it soothes and smoothes the skin —a_ sample bottle, oc. Also send for the Packer Manual, “How to Care for the Hair and Scalp,’ 32 inter- esting pages of help- ful advice—the result of half a century of study. Free on re- The things a woman never says —but thinks about a man’s hair RUST a man’s secretary to know him. There isn’t much that gets by her observing and appraising eye. What she is really thinking, as she sits with pencil poised, might cause—well, it might cause a lot of things, if he knew. Of course, she wouldn’t tell him that unless he gets rid of dandruff he won’t keep that fine head of hair. But she has made a study of keeping her hair looking attractive and she knows. She also knows, from her own experience, that he can get rid of dandruff if he will exercise his scalp and his patience and use his ten fingers and Packer’s Tar Soap. Dandruff has a particular aversion to this well- known pine tar preparation. Doctors, you know, have long recognized that pine tar has a beneficial tonic effect on the health and appearance of the hair. As combined in Packer’s with glycerine and cocoanut oil, it stimulates the scalp, pene- trates to the roots, helps you to remove the dandruff and helps to bring health to the scalp. When hair health comes, dandruff goes—along with the other hair troubles. } Keep that nice, healthy head of hair. Use Pack- ers. At all druggists and department stores— everywhere. THE PACKER MANUFACTURING, Co., INc. Dept. 90-J, 120 West 32d St., New York City. Canadian Wholesale Distributors: Lymans, Limited, Montreal, The Lyman Bros. & Co., Ltd., Toronto. Shampoo with ARE RS PRESS OF JUDD & DETWEILER, Inc WASHINGTON, D.C. How can this incredible offer be made ? —and why itis made. An interest- ing experiment in human nature. HESE, thirty volumes of the world’s greatest masterpieces have been advertised several times in National Geographic Magazine. Many thousands of readers have purchased this set. But there are innumerable others, we have found from experience, who intended to send for these great books—and have put off doing so. This very human trait of procrastination is difficult to combat. So we are trying this interesting experiment to see if it can be overcome. What This Offer Is This set of thirty volumes—as you may have gathered from previous advertisements—includes the best work of such immortal authors as Shakespeare, Kipling, Stevenson, Emerson, Poe, Coleridge, Burns, Omar Khayyam, Ma- caulay, Lincoln, Washington, Wilde, Gilbert, Longfellow, Drummond, Conan Doyle, Edward Everett Hale, Thoreau, Tennyson, Browning, and others. Each volume in the set is complete. Yet the price, incredible as it may seem, is only $2.98, plus postage, for the ENTIRE SET of thirty volumes. At this astonishing price close to fifteen millions of these books have been purchased. The reason, we believe, is that these books offer a value that cannot easily be re- sisted. Each of these volumes is complete (not extracts) ; the entire set contains over 3,000 pages; the paper is equal to that used in books selling at $2.00; the type is easy to read; the binding is a beautiful embossed y Croft which, though NOT leather, looks even more NN handsome, and more durable; each volume fits \ the pocket—they are ideal for traveling or \ spare-time reading. Little Testis How Can It Be Done? Library How is it possible to offer thirty vol- Corp., X\ umes like these for $2.98 and yet give Dept. 1210, away four volumes of Kipling? The 354 Fourth Ave., AN answer is no secret: quantity pro- New York City XN duction. ‘These books are published in editions of almost one million at a time! Moreover we must i 1 rint these editions frequently of the Little Leather Library Pp (and the 4 volumes of Kipling Q enough to keep our, force FREE). I will pay the postman of skilled workmen intact; $2.98 plus the postage upon delivery. \ we cannot print one It is understood, however, that this edition, discharge is not to be considered a purchase. If these men, and then the books do not in every way come up ? h to my expectations, I reserve the right to XX expect to get the return them any time within thirty days and XN same skilled men you agree to return my money. It is under- when we are stood that $2.98, plus the postage, is positively NN ready for a N new edition. Please send me the 80 vol- umes of the De Luxe edition the only payment to be made. FREE! 4 Volumes Kipling That is the real reason we decided to attempt to “bribe” you—and others—to order these books at once, if you intend to do so at all. We offer—FREE—four volumes of Kipling, in the same size and binding as the thirty volumes of Little Leather Library, if you will write for this set at once instead of waiting. These four volumes include some of Kipling’s best writings, among them such masterpieces as “The Phantom Rickshaw,” “The Man Who Was,” “The Vampire,” ‘The Meeting of the Maver- icks,” ““My Own True Ghost Story,” and others. Kipling lifts you out of the commonplace into a world that teéems with life in its strangest and most unexpected phases. Remember, these four volumes of Kipling are free. Send No Money No description, no illustration, can do justice to these books. They are an unprecedented value at this price. You must see them, and wT are anxious to have you do so—not at your risk, but at ours. We wi send you the entire set on trial—with the 4 volumes of Kipling free. When the package arrives, pay the postman $2.98 plus the postage. Then examine the books and the set of Kipling. Yourmoney will be re- turned at any time within thirty days, for any reason or for NO rea- son, if you request it. As to our responsibility, we refer you to the Industrial Bank of New York or to any magazine or newspaper in the United States. LITTLE LEATHER LIBRARY CORPORATION Dept. 1210 354 Fourth Avenue, New York City AT SNe lies elie GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE NOVEMBER, 1922

‘| Arf had! ili p NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY GEOGRAPHIC ADMINISTRATION BUILDINGS SIXTEENTH AND M STREETS NORTHWEST, WASHINGTON, D. C. GILBERT GROSVENOR, President JOHN JOY EDSON, Treasurer BOYD TAYLOR, Assistant Treasurer HENRY WHITE, Vice-President O. P. AUSTIN, Secretary GEORGE W, HUTCHISON, Associate Secretary FREDERICK V. COVILLE, Chairman Committee on Research EDWIN P. GROSVENOR, General Counsel EXECUTIVE STAFF OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE GILBERT GROSVENOR, EDITOR JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE, Associate Editor WILLIAM J. SHOWALTER Assistant Editor Joes CHARLES J. BELL President American Security and ‘Trust Company JOHN JOY EDSON Chairman of the Board, Wash- ington Loan & Trust Company DAVID FAIRCHILD In Charge of Agricultural Ex- plorations, U. $. Department of Agriculture C. HART MERRIAM Member National Academy of Sciences O. P. AUSTIN Statistician GEORGE R. PUTNAM Commissioner U. S. Bureau of Lighthouses GEORGE SHIRAS, 3p Formerly Member U. S. Con- gress, Faunal Naturalist, and Wild-game Photographer i LESDER JONES Director U. S.)Coast detic Survey and Geo- RALPH A. GRAVES Assistant Editor FRANKLIN L. FISHER _ Chief of Illustrations Division HILDEBRAND, Chief of School Service BOARD OF TRUSTEES WILLIAM HOWARD TAFT Chief Justice of the United States GRANT SQUIRES Military Intelligence Division, General Staff, New York Cy ME CH Si ihik Rear Admiral U. S. merly Supt. U. S&S. servatory PREDERICK Ve) COVILEE Botanist, U. S. Department of Agriculture RUDOLPH KAUFFMANN Managing Editor The Evening Star T. L. MACDONALD MED yer ACS: S. N. D. NORTH Formerly Director U. S. Bureau of Census JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE Associate Editor National Geo- graphic Magazine Navy, For- Naval Ob- ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL Inventor of the telephone Died August 2, 1922 J. HOWARD GORE Prof. Emeritus Mathematics, The George Washington University A. W. GREELY Arctic Explorer, Major General U. S. Army GILBERT GROSVENOR Kditor of National Magazine GEORGE OTIS SMITH Director, U. S. Geological Survey O. H. TITTMANN Formerly Superintendent U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey HENRY WHITE Member American Peace Com- mission, Formerly U. S. Am- bassador to France, Italy, etc. STEPHEN T. MATHER Director National Park Service Geographic ORGANIZED FOR “THE INCREASE AND DIFFUSION OF GEOGRAPHIC KNOWLEDGE” for which it discoveries form a large share of our knowledge of a TO carry out the purposes was founded thirty-four years ago, the Na- tional Geographic Society publishes this Magazine. All receipts are invested in the Magazine itself or ex- pended directly to promote geographic knowledge. ARTICLES and photographs are desired. For material which the Magazine can _ use, generous remuneration is made. Contributions should be accompanied by an addressed return envelope and postage. IMMEDIATELY aiter the terrific eruption of the world’s largest crater, Mt. Katmai, in Alaska, a National Geographic Society expedition was sent to make observations of this remarkable phenom- enon. Four expeditions have followed and the extra- ordinary scientific data resultant given to the world. In this vicinity an eighth wonder of the world was discovered and explored—“‘The Valley of Ten Thou- sand Simokes,’”’ a vast area of steaming, spouting fissures. As a result of The Society’s discoveries this area has been created a National Monument by proc- lamation of the President of the United States. AT an expense of over $50,000 The Society sent a notable series of expeditions into Peru to investigate the traces of the Inca race. Their civilization which was waning when Pizarro first set foot in Peru. THE Society also had the honor of sub- scribing a substantial sum to the historic expedition of Admiral Peary, who discovered the North Pole. NOT long ago The Society granted $25,000, and in addition $75,000 was given by in- dividual members through The Society to the Federal Government when the congressional appropriation for the purchase was insufficient, and the finest of the giant sequoia trees of California were thereby saved for the American people and incorporated into a National Park. THE Society is conducting extensive ex- plorations and excavations in northwestern New Mexico, which was one of the most densely populated areas in North America before Columbus came, a region where prehistoric peoples lived in vast communal dwellings whose ruins are ranked second to none of ancient times in point of architecture, and whose customs, ceremonies and name have been engulfed in an oblivion more complete than any other people who left traces comparable to theirs. Copyright, 1922, by National Geographic Society, Washington, D. C. All rights reserved. Entered at the Post-Office at Washington, D. C., as Second-Class Mail Matter. Acceptance for mailing at special rate of post- age provided for in Sec. 1103, Act of October 3, 1917, authorized July 1, 1918. Is this a Critical Time for your Hair? Have you tried PACKER’S SHAMPOO? J It is for your daughter’ HESE GIRLHOOD YEARS are Crit- ical for your little daughter— perhaps the most critical so far as her fair is concerned. Like the rest of her growing body her hair at this time demands extra nourishment and attention. Teach her how to care for it correctly. Explain to her that proper care now will insure lovely shining tresses to tuck up on her pretty young head when her school days are over. And how about you? Is this a critical time for your hair also? Certainly it is if you are troubled with dandruff—or if your hair is too oily or is dry and brittle. Take care. These conditions eventually cause hair to be- come noticeably thinner and to lose its charm and _attractive- ness. Start now to correct them. Keep your own hair looking its best. This is the finest incentive you can give your daughter. Show her how to follow the Packer Method of Shampooing. She will not need your help after the first few times. What pine tar means to Women’s Hair The Packer Method is built around the use of pine tar. Physicians, you know, have long recognized that pine tar has a tonic effect on the health ands appearance ofthe shai) lt quickens the action of a marvelous circulation system. Many tiny cells and blood vessels wake up and carry nourishing food to every portion of the scalp. Pine tar, combined in Packer’s, with just the right proportions of glycerine and cocoanut oil, helps to make the hair lustrous, silky and healthy. Use either the well-known stand- ard cake, or use Packer’s Liquid Tar Soap (Packer’s Shampoo). Packer’s Shampoo, by the way, is delicately perfumed, and has a different fra- grance but the same dependable Packer habit of bringing health and beauty to hair and scalp. THE PACKER MANUFACTURING COMPANY, INC. Dept. 90-L, 120 West 32nd Street, New York City Canadian Wholesale Distributors: Lymans, Limited, Montreal The Lyman Bros. & Co., Ltd., Toronto GZ Special Sample Offer Send 25c for All Three samples or 10c for any One of them To introduce all three Packer products, this special offer —a gen- erous sample of all three for 25c, Packer’s Tar Soaps, Packers Shampoo, Packer's Charm (which quickly relieves chapped hands and lips and _ other rough conditions of the skin)—or send toc for anyone sample. At any time we gladly send free a copy of our Manual ‘‘How to Care for the Hair and Scalp.” Try it, and you will be pleased with its invigor- ating effects and its ability to bring out your hair’s real beauty. This delight- ful preparation is a liquid shampoo of Packer qual- ity—which means that it is backed by 50 years’ specialized experience in safeiy caring for the hair. Try it. The large 6- ounce handy grip bottle— in the new green carton —at most druggists or at toilet goods counters. PRESS OF JUDD & DETWEILER, INc. WASHINGTON, D.C. JAR SQAP Shampoo with PACKERS NE day, not many months ago, the McCormick- Deering dealers of central Minnesota came to St. Cloud and painted the town red. It was “Red Baby Day” and the eyes of the motion picture cameras saw the city celebrating. The newspapers issued special editions. Senators and other prominent officials took part in the activities, and business men and farmers in thousands were caught up in a great wave of community enthusiasm. On that day these McCormick- Deering dealers came into proud possession of the”"Red Baby” Service Trucks mobilized in the above photograph. Before night they drove 162 bright- red International Speed Trucks out into the counties around St. Cloud and set them to work —not for resale but for actual use in the betterment of farming. Since that day the “Red Babies” have lived on the roads, distributing equipment, in- formation, repairs, and special aid—carrying everywhere the methods that increase production and wealth. * * * € This middle-western incident merely typifies the “Red INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER COMPANY USA 93 Company Branches and 15,000 Dealers in the United States OF AMERICA (INCORPORATED) CHICAGO Serves the Nation by Serving Agriculture Baby” enthusiasm that has swept the nation. St. Cloud speaks with a small voice compared with the mighty call for International Speed Trucks that has come from the great McCormick-Deering dealer organization. During this present season a constant procession of “Red Baby” Service Trucks has trailed out of Boston, out of Los Angeles, out of Winnipeg and Jacksonville, out of all International branch house cities into the service of Agriculture. In a hundred days’ time the vast fleet of “Red Baby” trucks, owned and used exclusively by the McCormick- Deering dealers, has given a new value to the familiar term “Service.” “Red Baby” has become a household term, the truck a familiar sight and influence in thousands of rural communities. A new demand for modern farming methods is in evidence, and the alert service that doubles the dealer’s worth now speeds to the doorsteps of American farms. Farm products, the staff of life, find their way into cities and over oceans in richer flow because the “Red Baby” is leading the way to better, more profitable farming. 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