ae ee ee ee a > — Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from University of Toronto http://www.archive.org/details/naturalistinwes01 wils A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA THE AUTHOR Gre A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA WITH VASCULUM, CAMERA, AND GUN BEING SOME ACCOUNT OF ELEVEN YEARS’ TRAVEL, EXPLORATION, AND OBSERVATION IN THE MORE REMOTE PARTS OF THE FLOWERY KINGDOM BY - ERNEST HENRY WILSON, V.M.H. WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY CHARLES SPRAGUE SARGENT, LL.D. WITH ONE HUNDRED AND ONE FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP ae VOL. | a A k METHUEN & CO. LTD. 36 ESSEX STREET W.C. LONDON Covonial Library. TO MY WIFE PREFACE SESE EC ERAS SR Ke Copal aeale give a general account of Western China, more especially of its natural history and of the manners and customs of the non-Chinese peoples inhabiting _ the Chino-Thibetan borderland. The attempt is based as broadly as possible, and it is earnestly hoped that the information will be of interest to many sorts and conditions of people. _. My travels in Western China began early in 1899, and had for their object the collecting of botanical _ specimens and the introducing of new plants into the _ gardens of Europe and North America. I have made _ four separate expeditions, covering in all nearly eleven e , and the nature of my work made it necessary for me to eschew the beaten tracks of the Flowery _ Kingdom. - The 0 1 mete 36 to travel and study the natural history of China I owe to the business enterprise of the house of Veitch, the famous nurserymen of Chelsea, to whom I was recommended by Sir William T. _ Thiselton-Dyer, then Director of Kew Gardens, at the instigation of Mr. W. Watson, the present Curator _ of that establishment. My first two expeditions were in the interest of Messrs. Veitch ; the last two in that of the Arnold Arboretum of Harvard University. The results of these four trips are well known in the horticultural and botanical circles of Europe and North America. ____In my wanderings in China I have been singularly fortunate. The Chinese treated me always with _ kindly courtesy and respect. I was in interior China Ly b | N the following pages I have endeavoured to oe oan dag PORE vii A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA during the Boxer outbreak and the Russo-Japanese War, and visited places shortly before or after anti- foreign riots, but never experienced any incivility meriting the name. I engaged and trained as collectors a number of Chinese peasants, who served me faithfully throughout my journeys, and we parted with genuine regrets. At the commencement of my travels in China, Mr. Augustine Henry, now Professor of For at Dublin, imparted to me much sound advice whi I did my utmost to follow. To this gentleman and to the devoted services of my Chinese collectors must be largely attributed the results of my work in China. It is exceedingly pleasant to recall the kindly acts and hospitality of the many people I have been privileged to meet during my wanderings. Exigencies of space forbid the mention of names but do not affect my sincere appreciation. But for meeting them one’s life would have been very much the er and lonelier. To my friend, W. J. Tutcher of Hong- Kong, this book in part owes its inception, and to another friend, J. Hutson Edgar, I am indebted for much information concerning the peculiar customs of the Thibetans and other non-Chinese races. In the preparation of this work, I have received much encouragement from Professor Charles S. Sargent, who has also contributed an introduction of the greatest value. To my friend Herman Spooner I am indebted for invaluable criticisms of the manu- script. To Walter R. Zappey, my associate on the third expedition, I owe much for assistance in details concerning the colours and measurements of the game- birds and mammals. Two or three of the chapters I first published in the Gardeners’ Chronicle during 1905-6, and that on insect white-wax in the Chemist and Druggist, 1906, but these have been remodelled to suit present require- ments, and amended and corrected in accordance with increased knowledge. With six exceptions, the illustrations are from | | is ‘ - b , A a ie is ¥ aA ¥ ‘ i & OLEATE ERE ¥ PREFACE ix : agp taken by myself with a whole plate anderson camera for the Arnold Arboretum, and — to use them I owe to Professor Sargent. e photographs were developed and printed by Mr. E. J. Wallis of Kew, who obtained from the tives the best possible results. For the illustration of Budorcas tibetanus, I am indebted to Mr. Samuel Henshaw, Director of the Museum of Comparative Zoblogy at Harvard College. It is oa impossible to record the full extent of one’s obligations, since much information is un- consciously absorbed through contact with many : og see and extensive reading. I should, however, king in filial respect did I not record my sense ~ of indebtedness to the Alma Mater who gave me both _ inspiration and opportunity—the Royal Gardens, Kew. ERNEST H. WILSON THe ARNOLD ARBORETUM HARVARD UNIVERSITY July 1913 CONTENTS ‘, InrRopucTION BY PRoFEssoR CHARLES S. SARGENT . CHAP. _ I, Western Cuina: Mountain RAnGes AND RIVER ) : SYSTEMS . P P ; ‘ . 2 II. WEsTERN HupPEH : GENERAL TOPOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY ; III. Mernops or TRAVEL: Roaps AND ACCOMMODATION IV. In Quest oF Frowers: A JourNEY IN NortTH- WESTERN HuPEH : P : . V. Forest anp CraG: Across THE HupEH-SZECHUAN FRONTIER ‘ ‘ e : > . _ VI. Tue Rep Basin or Szecuuan: Its GEOLOGY, MINERAL, ; AND AGRICULTURAL WEALTH . ; : Pp | VII. Eastern Szecuvan: NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY FROM Taninc Hsien to TuncHsianc Hsien : ; - Tae Ancient Kincpom oF Pa: NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY FROM TUNGHSIANG HsIEN To PaoninG Fu . : Ix. THe CHENGTU PiaIn: “THE GARDEN OF WESTERN 3 Curna”’ . = ‘ 3 % ‘ 4 _X. NortH-WEsTERN SzEcHUAN: NARRATIVE OF A CROSsS- MOUNTAIN JouRNEY To SUNGPAN TING ° % px. Sunecpan Tine: THE LAND OF THE SIFAN A - XII. Tue Curno-Tureran Borprrianp: “THe MARcHES a OF THE MANTzU” : : : : : . THe CuHraruNG Trises: THEIR History, MANNERS, AND CusToMs . i : ? is xi PAGE 116 14! 149 160 xii CHAY, XIV. XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII. XIX. A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA Across tHe Cxuino-TuipetaAn BorpeRLaAnp: KvUAN Hsien To Romi CHANGO; THE FLORA OF THE PAN- LAN SHAN ° ° ° e - - Across THE CuIno-TuipeTAN BorpERLAND: Romi CHANGO TO TACHIENLU ; THE ForEsTs or THE TA-P’AO SHAN . ° e ° - s e TACHIENLU, THE Gate or TutpetT: THe KIncpom or CHIALA, ITs PEopLE, THEIR MANNERS AND CUSTOMS SacRED Omer SHAN: Its TEMPLES AND ITs FLORA . THROUGH THE LAOLIN (WILDERNESS): NARRATIVE OF A JouRNEY FROM KiaTING TO MALIE, viIA Wa- wu SHAN : ° : - : Wa SHAN AND ITs FLORA ‘ \ b ES ee 228 245 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS © Tux Avro; . 4 ‘ : . Frontispiece A Peak OF THE BARRIER RANGE (Ta-P’Ao SHAN), Circa 21,000 BT. a Tue Yanotsze River at IcHANG : : ‘ é 6 A GENERAL View IN Nortu-WestTern Hupen : P 8 | A View NEAR HsIncsHAN HSIEN WITH TERRACED FreLps es SaN-yu-runc GLEN ; CLirrs oF CARBONIFERIOUS LIMESTONE . 14 _ PRIMULA SINENSIS . P , , ; oe Our Cutnese House-Boat ° ‘ ‘ . > 6 Our CARAVAN . | i ‘. é rs . ae | Hoste ar Cue-rsze-kou, Pinus ARMANDI BEHIND 26 -Hicuway Leap THROUGH A NATURAL TUNNEL . ° a Wan-rIAa0 SHAN, 8100 FT. ; : , 36 IN SAN-yU-TUNG GLEN, CUPRESSUS FUNEBRIS IN FOREGROUND . 40 Tue CHINESE Privet (LIGUSTRUM SINENSE), 20 FT. TALL 46 _ CERCIDIPHYLLUM JAPONICUM, VAR. SINENSE, 80 FT. TALL, GIRTH 7 FT. : : ‘ ° ° ° : : . + 210 HE LAMASERIES JUST OUTSIDE TACHIENLU . . - 216 1 @ CHINESE Banyan (Ficus INFECTORIA), 70 FT. TALL, GIRTH 47 FT. - ‘ ; : ; . + 220 GEA XANTHONEURA, VAR. Wusonu, 15 FY. TALL - 224 ON THE City WALL, Kiatinc Fu . ‘ e 290 : GE OF PING-LING-SHIH, Mt. Wa-wu IN DISTANCE . «. 934 Vr y FROM TEMPLE ON SuMMIT OF Mr, Wa-wu, CLIFFS CLOTHED WITH SILVER FIR (ABIES DELAVAY!) : ° 238 3AMBOC JUNGLE AND SILVER Fir (ABIES DELAVAY!) . = an SHAN, 11,200 FT. . ; ; P + 246 INTRODUCTION HE botanical explorations carried on in China in recent years make it possible to compare the forest flora of eastern con- tinental Asia north of about lat. 22° 30’ with that of eastern _ North America north of the Rio Grande. In these explorations Mr. | Wilson has played an important part, and more than any other traveller has shown us the remarkable richness of the flora of __ western central China and the distribution and value of many of the _ most important Chinese trees. A comparison of the flora of eastern _ continental Asia with that of eastern North America made at this time cannot be entirely conclusive, for although much has been done to make known the Chinese flora much is still left undone ; and _ there are still vast regions of the Celestial Empire into which no | botanist has as yet penetrated, and these may be expected to yield __ new harvests of still unknown plants. It is not surprising that the forest flora of China is richer in _ genera than that of eastern North America, for although the area _ of the two regions under consideration is not very dissimilar there is a great difference in their topography. In eastern North America _ only a few mountain peaks reach an altitude of 6000 ft., and these _ are wooded to the summit. In China mountain ranges are more "numerous, with peaks which sometimes rise far above the upper _ limits of vegetation, and on some of these mountain ranges the timber line is at least twice as high as the highest land in eastern _ America. The connection of the great mass of mountains of _ south-western China with the Himalayas which must be considered _ their western prolongation, and the great tropical region which extends uninterrupted by any large body of water southward from _ South-western China, will account for the presence in the Chinese + (0 Mexico many genera of Cactacee, the Agaves, Yuccas, Dasylirion, t _ and other genera which have no representativesin China. While the xviii A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA larger mountain systems, the greater height of land, and its more pro- lific neighbours can account for a larger number of genera in eastern: Asia than in eastern North America, it is not possible to find an explanation for the greater number of species there of widely distributed genera like Acer, Picea, Prunus, Sorbus, and Berberis, which are more numerous in China than in any other part of the~ world, or for the absence from eastern Asia of larger numbers of — species in genera like Crataegus and Amelanchier. { In eastern continental Asia there is nothing to compare with — the great maritime pine belt which extends from southern Virginia to eastern Texas, and is one of the remarkable features of the flora’ of eastern North America ; and the great forests of Pinus Strobus L., which once extended from northern New England and eastern Canada to northern Minnesota, are but poorly replaced in north- eastern Asia by trees of Pinus koraiensis S. and Z., scattered over a — comparatively restricted area in eastern Siberia and Korea. The Black Oaks, with their lustrous leaves and biennial fructification, — which are so abundant and conspicuous, except in the extreme north, | all over eastern North America, are wanting in eastern Asia; while 4 the Bamboos, the most widely distributed and the most generally useful of all the forest plants of China, are represented in North - America by two small and unimportant species of Arundinaria — confined to the swamps and river bottoms of the southern states. As a rule, to which, of course, there are a few exceptions, the — trees of eastern North America are larger and more valuable than © related Chinese species ; but of Chinese shrubs it can be said gener- — ally that they produce more beautiful flowers than the shrubs of © eastern North America, although to this statement there are also some exceptions. A more detailed examination of the principal groups of forest plants in the two regions will show the similarities — and the differences of the forest flora of the two regions. CyCADACE2.—Four species of Cycas are found in southern ~ China, and in Florida the family appears in two species of Zamia. — ConIFER&.—This family is represented in China by fourteen, and in eastern North America by nine, genera. In eastern North America there are only two genera which are not also represented — in China, Taxodium, which is replaced there by the nearly telated Glyptostrobus and Chamecyparis, represented, however, in Japan by two important trees. Libocedrus, Cupressus, Cunninghamia, Pseudolarix, Keteleeria, and Fokienia have no eastern American representative. In Pinus, eastern North America, with fifteen species, has the advantage of eastern continental Asia, in which ee es ee ee “os INTRODUCTION xix y eight species occur ; and in eastern America Pine trees are dually larger, more numerous, and more generally distributed t nin China. In Picea, China, with its twenty species, has a decided ivantage over eastern America, where only three species occur, and in Abies, China, with its nine species, is richer than eastern North America, where there are only two species, and of these one is found ‘only on the highest peaks of the southern Appalachian Mountains. Of Tsuga there are two species in eastern North America and two pecies in China, but Tsuga canadensis Carr. is a larger tree and ‘much more widely distributed than any of the Chinese species. Et on the other hand, is better represented in eastern continental Asia, where it is widely distributed with several species from eastern Siberia to the mountains of Western China, where it sometimes forms large forests, while in eastern America there is a single species con- fined to the north-eastern part of the continent and is a small tree hich southward is found only inswamps. Juniperusis represented apry hi bovhsangens and in North America by five species ; but ie of the Chinese Junipers are as large or as widely distributed as rus virginiana L. ; and none of them produce so valuable wood s that species and. barbadensis L. Thuya is represented in each n with a single species of about equal importance. In eastern ne ic Taxodium is a large and valuable timber tree widely tributed in the South Atlantic and Gulf regions, while its Asiatic representative, Glyptostrobus, i is a small tree confined to the banks f a few streams in south-eastern tropical China. _ TaxacE#.—In this family the advantage is all with China, ith Taxus, Torreya, Cephalotaxus, Gingko, and Podocarpus, e in eastern America it appears with only a single species each (Taxus and Torreya, small trees found only in a few small isolated oves in western Florida. } Sittacns. — Represented in continental Asia by Ephedra d Gnetum, this family does not appear in eastern North America. _ PANDANACE. —One species of Freycinetia and two species of ndanus represent this Old World family in southern China. _ Patma.—About the same number of species of Palms are re- orted from the two regions, fourteen species in seven genera in and sixteen species in eight genera in eastern North America. Th BE opecies in the two regions belong to different genera, with the ‘exception of Cocos nucifera L., which is found on all the tropical ore In eastern North America Palms extend farther north than and some of the dwarf species cover in the southern d States great areas of dry sandy land with almost impene- Ye el ee Ee a — cae a = wt? Se xx A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA trable thickets, as dwarf Bamboos make travel on some of the mountain slopes of Western China almost impossible. 4 LintAcez.—Of this family Heterosmilax is found only in eastern Asia, but Smilax occurs in the two regions, in each of whic é it is about equally represented by a number of species ; Yucca and Dasylirion are American. 4 ARACE&.—Plants of this family are sometimes woody in southern China, where species of Pothos and Rhaphidophora are large climbers, but in eastern North America all the members of this family are herbaceous. : PIPERACE.—Piper, with woody species in southern China, is” the only genus of this family in the two regions. | CHLORANTHACE&.—Of this small tropical family Chloranthus, in China, is the only representative in the two regions. . SALICACE#.—In the number of species of Populus in the two floras there is no great difference. None of the Asiatic specie grow to a larger size, perhaps, than the American Cottonwooc (Populus deltoidea Marsh.), but with this exception the Asiati species are larger and more valuable trees than the Am . species, notably the Manchurian Populus Maximowiczii A. Henry, and the north China Populus tomentosa Carr., which are among the largest and most beautiful Poplar trees of the world. In Sali there is probably no great difference in the number of species in th two regions, although there is still much to be learned of the alpine species of Western China. In eastern North America Willows are mostly shrubby, only three or four species attaining to the dignity of small trees, while in eastern Asia there are probably ten or twelve arborescent species, and some of these are trees of considerable siz > JUGLANDACEZ.—In this family the advantage is with eastern continental Asia, with four genera against two in eastern North America, where there is no representative of Pterocarya, hardtia, or Platycarya. Juglans is common to the two regions, Carya is not known in China; and the presence in eastern N America of this genus in many widely distributed species, val as timber trees and for the nuts produced by some of the i economically, at least, makes up for the absence of the three which occur in China and not in eastern North America. Juglans, 1 eastern America with three species, and continental Asia, with species, is of nearly equal importance in the two regions. N of the Asiatic species, however, compare in size with the i Juglans nigra L., but Juglans regia L., whose original home is believed to be on the mountains of northern and Western Chi INTRODUCTION xxi the most valuable nuts and the most valuable timber pro- by any species of the genus. _ LBITNERIACE#, a family of a single species of Leitneria, is North American. _ Myricace#.—Comptonia is confined to eastern North America, t Myrica, with a small number of species, occurs in the two regions, one species, Myrica Gale L., common to them both. In orth America there is no species which at all resembles Myrica a Lour. with its edible fruits. BETULACE2.—In eastern North America Carpinus appears a small widely distributed tree, but in continental Asia seven or eight species of the two sections, into which this genus has been separated (Eucarpinus and Distigocarpus), are common. Ostrya is ‘represented in each region by a single species, the eastern American Ostrya being much more generally distributed and more abundant than the Chinese species, which appears to be confined to the moun- n forests of Hupeh and Szechuan. The monotypic Ostryopsis is onfined to Mongolia and China. Of Alnus there are five species in eastern North America, four of these being shrubs and one a ‘small tree; but in eastern continental Asia there are at least six ‘or seven species of this genus, and one of these, Alnus cremastogyne Burk., is a large tree sometimes roo ft. high, shading the banks of ny streams in Western China with groves of splendid specimens. a forms a considerable part of the forests of eastern Siberia, and is common on many of the mountain ranges of China, especially hose in western Szechuan, where it reaches altitudes of 10,000 ft. In eastern Asia, however, there is no species which, like Betula ‘nigra L. of eastern North America, can thrive on the banks of ‘Streams in the nearly tropical heat of regions like Florida, Louisiana, and Texas, where this tree grows to its largest size. The number | f species in the two regions is not very different, and as timber ' trees the Birches of one region are probably as valuable as those of the other. It is doubtful, however, if any eastern Asiatic Birch ree ever grows to the size sometimes attained by Betula lutea ! Michx., of the forests of north-eastern North America. FAGACES. —In eastern North America there is a single species of Fagus ranging from eastern Canada to Florida and Texas, and ‘one of the largest and most common trees of all this region. In eastern continental Asia Fagus does not extend into the north, ‘and appears to be confined to the mountain forests of the central “western provinces, in which three species are now known; these are smaller and less important trees than the American Beech. xxii A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA Castanea is more important in the number of species in ¢ continental Asia than in North America, but it is doubtful it Asiatic species is anywhere as common or forms such a large p of the forest as the American Castanea dentata Borkh. forms 0 some Appalachian slopes; and in height and girth of trunk tl American tree has no Asiatic rival. In eastern North Amer there are two other species ; of these one is a small tree or shrut and the other a shrub, both bearing a single nut in the involucre In Western China there are also two species with similar fruit, t one of these, Castanea Vilmoriniana Dode, is a noble tree an the largest of the eastern Asiatic Chestnuts; the other is a small shrub, to be compared with the American Castanea nana Muh. The Japanese Castanea crenata S, and Z. reaches Korea, and mollissima Blume, another small tree, ranges from the n hood. of Peking £0°the mounthine on. the Thibeten tule tanopsis, which is related closely to Castanea, has its headqu in south-eastern Asia, with several species in southern Chi and one in California, but no representative in eastern Nort America. It is possible that the number of species of Quercus is greater in eastern continental Asia than in eastern North America. Oak trees, however, are much less widely distributed in the forme: region and are not numerous at the north, the Chinese Oaks b chiefly confined to the southern provinces and usually everg Some of these evergreen Oaks should be referred to Pasani distinguished from the true Oaks by the arrangement of their flower in bisexual aments, the pistillate in several-flowered clusters bel the staminate, like the flowers of Castanea and Castanopsis. has been already stated, there are no Black Oaks in China, anc no species which are counterparts of the eastern American Chestnut Oaks. The northern White Oaks are inferior in size to several of the White Oaks of eastern North America, and it is doubtfu if any of the southern evergreen species equal in size Querc virginiana Mill., the Live Oak of the southern United States. _ UrtmacEz.—No Elm tree of eastern Asia equals the so-callec American Elm (Ulmus americana L.) in size and beauty, but it % probable that the genus Ulmus has a larger representation 0 species in western continental Asia than it has in eastern Nort America, although it is still impossible to speak with much know ledge of Chinese Elm trees, which are very imperfectly understood. It is interesting that the section of the genus (Microptelea), whic flowers in the autumn, has representatives in the two regions. two in eastern America and one in China, the only other specie: INTRODUCTION xxiii ‘of this group growing on the Himalayas. The monotypic Planera occurs only in eastern North America, and Pteroceltis and Zelkowa Le any wep dong yprrngibon Celtis is common to the two , but the trees of this genus are larger and appear to be » generally distributed in eastern North America than in eastern continental Asia. The tropical genus Trema is represented 1 both regions. | Morace#.—Of this family the monotypic Maclura is American, d Broussonetia, Cudrania, and Artocarpus, which occur in China, have no American representatives. There are two species of Morus in each of the two regions, but neither of the two American Mul- erries compare in value with the Chinese Morus alba L., for the Teaves of this tree and its numerous varieties furnish the best and nief food of the silkworm in all countries where silk is made. In Ficus the advantage is with China, both in the number of species and in the size of individuals, only two species having secured a thold in tropical Florida, where they are comparatively small Its nearness to tropical south-eastern Asia, which is one of the great centres of distribution of this genus, will account for the presence of some forty species of Ficus in southern China, re some of the species grow to a very large size. ProTEACE#.—Helicia, in south-eastern China, is the only genus sented in the floras of the two regions. _ LoraNTHACE2.—In this family Phorodendron is North American; uthobium is North American and Japanese, and Loranthus and Viscum are found in China and not in eastern North America. __ SANTALACE2.—Pyrularia and the monotypic Darbya have not een found in China. Henslowia is eastern Asiatic, and Buckleya | a representative in the floras of the two regions. ‘ eect ene species of the tropical genus Cansjera, in n China, is the only woody member of this family in ur two regions. hs OLacacE2&.—Of this tropical family Scheepfia and Ximenia have freached southern Florida from the West Indies, each with a single cies ; in China it appears only in Scheepfia. —_ saemervamepapeteigaad family is represented in the floras of the two regions by the genus Aristolochia, with more numerous wor lieth Ching thawda casters North America. . ae OLYGONACE2.—No arborescent or shrubby species of this . y is reported in China, but in tropical Florida two species of Coccolobis occur, and a species of Brunnichia is widely scattered rough the southern United States. ¢ xxiv A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA NyctTAGINACE&.—Pisonia aculeata L., an inhabitant of tre DIC shores in many parts of the world, probably reaches south-easter China, as it occurs in Formosa ; with other species of this genu it is common in tropical Florida. “ TROCHODENDRACE&.—This family is not represented in th flora of eastern North America but appears in China in Euptelea. — CERCIDIPHYLLACE2 and EUCOMMIACE2, too, have no a representatives, but appear in Western China each with a mone genus, Cercidiphyllum and E i 4 RANUNCULACE2.—In this family Paonia occurs in China bu not in eastern North America, and the monotypic Xanthorrhiza_ Appalachian. Clematis is common to both regions, with a m larger number of species in eastern Asia than in eastern America, where the genus is poorly developed. LARDIZABALACEA is an Asiaticand Chilian family, with Dec ist Stauntonia, Holbcellia, Akebia, Sinofranchetia, and Sargentode family. 4 MAGNOLIACE&.—Magnolia is represented in the two floras b about the same number of species. In China, however, speci occur in two groups, one of which produces its flowers before th appearance of the leaves, and in the other the leaves are nearly full grown before the flowers open. To the latter group all of t American species belong. Some of the American larger trees than the Chinese species, and no Asiatic Magnolia ve pares in beauty with Magnolia grandiflora L. of the southern Unit States or equals Magnolia macrophylla Michx. in the size of leav and flowers. Liriodendron appears in each region with a sif species, but the American representative of this genus is a larg and much more widely distributed tree. Ilicium and Schisand appear in the two regions, the former with three species in Chit ; 4 INTRODUCTION XXV nd one in the south-eastern United States, and the latter with r e American and eight Chinese species. Michelia, Kadsura, and Tis incmotypic Mangiietia and Tetracentron are Chinese, the ics hielak ons of tha largest sand-seost. interesting of the Chinese trees. ; 4 _ CALYCANTHACE2.—Calycanthus, with several species, is eastern North American only, and Meratia (Chimonanthus), with two _ species, is Chinese and does not appear in eastern North America. | ANONACE2.—This tropical family reaches eastern North Seerics with several species of Asimins, its most northers repre- sentative, and with Anona in tropical Florida. Uvaria, Artabotrys, | -Unona, Polyalthia, and Melodorum represent it in south-eastern Asia. a Laurace&.—In eastern North America this great, mostly tropical, family appears only in Persea, Ocotea, Sassafras, Litsea, adera, and Misanteca, but in eastern Asia there are eight genera 0) or aria ticthkcemlia Chaneoona cabs Sassaf. Litsea, Lindera, and Cassytha. Of Sassafras there is ogee heat ag but the American species is a much more . ely and generally distributed tree, the Chinese Sassafras being “confined to the mountain slopes of western Hupeh and Szechuan. Litsea, which appears in eastern North America in one small shrub, n China is represented by at least a dozen species, among them several smal trees. Lindera, too, is more important in eastern ontinental Asia than in eastern North America, where there are nly two shrubby species, while China can boast of nearly ten times S many species ; some of these are large trees. The greater wealth ne rs a tis fonts oneene te in the important genus cinnamomum, including the species which yields the camphor of commerce, and in Machilus, of which several species are large and able timber trees. 3 CapparIDAce®.—This family appears in the tropics of the two ee Capparis is common to both, mut einva of south-eastern China has no American representative. _ NEPENTHACE2.—Onespecies of Nepenthes represents, in southern China, this Old-World family of a single genus. b ee Ln eee See ON oe be Cp segions, th Philadelphus, Hydrangea, Decumaria, Itea,and Ribes. Deutzia _ (with one species in Mexico), Cardiandra, Schizophragma, Pileos- a“ and Dichroa occur in China but not in eastern North America, n has no woody genus of the family not found also in eastern Slinental Asia. nee og hare y « Freres oe >< = ee ni ST fae a xxvi A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA PITTOSPORACE2. —Pittosporum, which reaches pry Western China with a few species, is the only genus of this fi in the two regions. y ; HAMAMELIDACE2.—This family is more important in the nur e of genera in eastern continental Asia than in eastern North America, where there is one endemic genus, Fothergilla. Hamamelis and Liquidambar occur in the two regions, and Oe oe represented also by Distylium, Corylopsis, Fortunearia, Sinowilsor Loropetalum, Sycopsis, Eustigma, Rhodoleia, and Altingia, In eac region the Liquidambar is a large, widely distributed, and valuable - timber tree. The Chinese Hamamelis, like one of the American species and the species from Japan, flowers in the winter. : PLATANACE%.—Platanus, the only genus of the family, which is. represented in eastern North America bya large, common, and widely distributed tree, has not reached eastern Asia. RosacEe#2.—Of the thirty-four genera of the woody plants ¢ this family found in the two regions, Neillia, Stephanandrs, Sorberial Sibirzea, Exochorda, Cotoneaster, Osteomeles, Chanomeles, De Pyrus, Eriolobus, Pyracantha, Rhaphiolepis, Eriobotrya, F Stranvesia, Rhodotypos, Kerria, Prinsepia, Pygeum, and Madden occur in China only. Three genera, Aronia, the monotypic Neviusia, and Chrysobalanus are American and not Chinese ; and ten genera are common in the two regions, Physocarpus, Spirea, Rosa, Malus, Sorbus, Amelanchier, Crataegus, Rubus, Potentilla, and Prunus. Of the genera common to the two regions, Physocarpus, with rapa in eastern Siberia, is better represented in eastern North Ame: where the genus is widely distributed with several speries. On t other hand, the closely related Spirea has a few . nall easter American species, but abounds in China, which is the centre c greatest distribution of this genus. Eastern continental Asia, too, is greatly superior to eastern North America in species of Rosa, a: in their variety and horticultural value, for China is the home of Rosa levigata Michx., Rosa bracteata Wendl., Rosa Banksia R. Br., Rosa multiflora Thunb., Rosa indica L., the origin of the Tea Roses of gardens, and of Rosa rugosa Thunb. The number of species ¢ Malus is probably abot the same inthe two regions, but it sinter esting that those of eastern North America all belong to a group (Coronariz) which is not represented in eastern Asia, where the small-fruited species with a deciduous calyx predominate. Sorbus in eastern North America is represented by two species of the Aucuparia section, while in eastern Asia there are nearly thirty species in this group and at least ten species of Aria which does ne 7 Pe i INTRODUCTION XXvii _ appear at all in the flora of eastern North America. Amelanchier, which is very widely distributed through eastern North America, _ with a number of species, of which two are small trees, has but one _ shrubby Chinese species. In Crataegus the difference between the - floras of the two regions is even more remarkable. In all of eastern continental Asia only twelve species have been found ; in eastern North America are more forms of Crategus than of any other genus _ of plants, and probably a thousand species. In Rubus the difference _ in the number of species in the two regions is probably not great ; _ several of the American species, however, produce more valuable _ fruit than any of the Asiatic species. Potentilla fruticosa L. ap- pears in the two regions with two other related species in eastern _ Asia and one in eastern North America. The composition of Prunus is unlike in the two regions. Of the true Plums (Prunophora) _ there is only a single species in eastern continental Asia (Prunus _ salicina Lindl.), confined to southern and Western China, no plum ee enna in eastern North America n trees have a wide distribution from the valley of the St. fr eta testa Meelda da’ Demane Metger aantber of epecles occurring in the Arkansas-Texas region than in any other part of the world. Padus, on the contrary, is represented in eastern h America by only four species, while in eastern continental about seventeen species are recognized. None of these, owever, equal the American P. serotina Ehrh. in size or in ue as a timber tree. Laurocerasus appears in eastern North erica in two species and in eastern China in three species. s has but three eastern North American representatives and a nu ddr ndnilier te siatene coutineniil Avia and Amygdalus, sica, and Armeniaca occur in eastern Asia and not in eastern orth America. in isiinhccese — Rosen in: seuithers China ta the any representa- tive of this family in the two regions. | L&euminos2.—Of the genera of woody plants of this family | the following occur in eastern North America but not in eastern r am ental Asia: Lysiloma, Prosopis, Parkinsonia, Cercidium, _Amorpha, Eysenhardtia, Robinia, Coursetia, and Ichthyomethia ; the following in eastern continental Asia and not in eastern America: Fordia, Ormosia, Millettia, Maackia, Caragana, toria, Pueraria, Rhynchosia, Dalbergia, Euchresta, Mezoneurum, Ipinia, Pterolobium, Entada, and Albizzia. The following nera have representatives in the two regions: Pithecolobium, ia, Leuceena (probably naturalized in southern China), Mimosa, xxviii A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA Cercis, Cassia, Gleditsia, Gymnocladus, Sophora, Cladrastis, Wisteria, Erythrina, Desmodium, Lespedeza, Dalbergia, and Sesbania. RvutTacE#2.—In eastern Asia representatives of this family are certainly more important than those found in eastern North America, for they include Citrus, Limonia, Atalantia, two genera of interesting trees, Phellodendron and Evodia, besides Toddalia, Acronychia, Murraya, Clausena, Orixa, and Skimmia, while in eastern North America this family is represented only by Helietta, Ptelea, Amyris, and by Zanthoxylum which occurs also in the other region which contains the larger number of species. | ZYGOPHYLLACE# is represented in eastern North America by Guaicum and Porlieria, and in eastern continental Asia by Zygophyllum. COCHLOSPERMACE.—A species of Amoreuxia in southern Texas is the only member of this family in the two regions. : SIMARUBACE# appear in tropical Florida in a species of Sima- ruba and in Picrasma, and in Texas in Castela, while of this family China has given to the world one of its valuable trees in Ailanthus, and is also represented by Picrasma, Brucea, and Harrisonia. 3 BURSERACE2.—One species of Bursera is eastern North American, and the species of Canarium in China represent this family in the two regions. . MELIACEZ.—Of the woody plants of this family in the two regions Swietenia is certainly the most valuable, although it is the only eastern American representative of the family ; while in China, representatives of this family are Aglaia, Amoora, Turrea, Cedrela, and Melia, one species of the last being widely and generally naturalized in the southern United States. MALPIGHIACE2.—This family reaches tropical Florida with a species of Byrsonima and southern Texas with a species of Mal- pighia : its only genus in China is Hiptage. POLYGALACEZ.—Of this family only a few Chinese species of Polygala are frutescent, the species of this genus in eastern Nort 7 America being herbaceous. DICHAPETALACE#.—This small family is represented in the twe regions by a single species of Dichapetalum in south-eastern China. — EUPHORBIACE®.— Woody plants of this family are e numerous in China than in eastern North America, where the follo ing genera only appear: Andrachne, Drypetes, Croton, Di Ricinella, Bernardia, Gymnanthes, Sebastiana, Stillingia, ¥ mane, and Mozinna. These eastern North American representative: of the family are all small shrubs with the exception of Drypete: INTRODUCTION xxix _ Gymnanthes, and Hippomane, which are small trees of tropical _ Florida. In eastern continental Asia woody plants of this family occur in Bridelia, Andrachne, Sauropus, Phyllanthus, Glochidion, - Securinega, Breynia, Bischofia, Aporosa, Daphniphyllum, Anti- desma, Microdesmis, Aleurites, Croton, Blachia, Claoxylum, _ Acalypha, Alchornea, Mallotus, Macaranga, Homonoia, Endosper- _ mum, Gelonium, Homolanthus, Erismanthus, Sapium, Sebastiana, and Exceecaria. Nearly all of these are tropical genera which, from the south, have obtained a foothold in south-eastern “China. Only Andrachne, Croton, and Sebastiana have representa- _ tives in the two regions. Aleurites, a genus of trees which produce - the wood-oil of commerce, is probably the most valuable genus of | the family in the two regions. BuxacE#.—One species of Pachysandra occurs in each of the eclaaee the other genera of this family in the two regions, Buxus and Sarcococca, are Chinese. CORIARIACE2, a family of a single genus, Coriaria, has a re- _ presentative in China but not in America. : EMPETRACEZ.—Empetrum occurs in north-eastern North _ America and in north-eastern continental Asia, and the other genera of this family, Corema and Ceratiola, are eastern North _ American, and have no Asiatic representatives. _ ANACARDIACE2.—In this family, Pistacia, Rhus, and Cotinus are represented in the flora of the two regions. Metopium is _ American, and Spondias, Mangifera, and Dracontomelum are _ Chinese. In China, Pistacia chinensis Bunge is a large, widely - distributed, and valuable tree, but in the United States Pistacia mexicana H.B.K. has secured only a precarious foothold on the _ northern bank of the Rio Grande in Texas. Of the members of _ this family in the two regions Rhus verniciflua Stokes, the Chinese _ Lacquer tree, is no doubt the most valuable. _ _CyrILtacE2.—This exclusively American family is represented in eastern North America by Cliftonia and Cyrilla. __ AQUIFOLIACE2.—Of this family, Ilex is widely distributed in the two regions, and the monotypic Nemopanthus is east North _ American. Ilex usually grows to a larger size in China than in "eastern North America, but is less northern in its range in the _ former region where most of the species are evergreen. _ CELastRACE#.—In this family, Celastrus and Evonymus are - common to the two regions. Tripterygium, Perrottetia, Micro- _ tropis, and Eleodendron are eastern Asiatic and not American, _ and Pachystima, Maytenus, Crossopetalum, Gyminda, Scheefferia, xxx A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA and Mortonia are American. Only one species of Celastrus and — three species of Evonymus occur in eastern North America, but in — eastern continental Asia the species of these genera are much more> numerous, and the species of Evonymus are usually larger and more beautiful plants. HIPPOCRATEACE2.—Of this small tropical family there is a species of Hippocratea in tropical Florida and two or three in southern China. STAPHYLEACE2.—Represented in China by Staphylea, Turpinia, Euscaphis, and Tapiscia, this family is much more important in eastern continental Asia than in eastern North America, where there — is a single species only of Staphylea. IcACINACEZ.—Without an eastern North American genus this family appears in China in Iodes, Mappia, and the monotypic ACERACE2.—Eastern continental Asia with its sixty-four species is far richer in Acer than eastern North America, where only ten species occur. The American Maples, however, are more widely distributed, and are larger and more valuable timber ae Dipteronia and Dodonza of this family are Chinese. HIPPOCASTANACEZ.—Of this family, Aisculus appears in two. arborescent species in China, one in the north and one on the mountains of the west, but in eastern North America, where more species are segregated than in any other part of the world, four arborescent and four shrubby species occur in the southern United States. The monotypic Bretschneidera is Chinese. SAPINDACE2.—Of the woody plants of this family found in our two regions, Urvillea, Serjania, Exothea, Hypelate, Cupania, and the monotypic Ungnadia are American, and the monotypic genera Xanthoceras and Delavaya, with Nephelium, Schmidelia, Kerlren- teria, and Pancovia, are Chinese ; Sapindus is common to the two regions. SABIACEZ.—Without representatives in eastern North Ametioal this family appears in China in Sabia and Meliosma. . RHAMNACE®.—Of this family, several genera reach tropical Florida from the West Indies and the dry region of Texas from Mexico, and the number is larger in eastern North America than in eastern continental Asia. The exclusively American genera are Rhamnidium, Reynosia, Ceanothus, Condalia, Karwinskia, Colu- brina, and Gouania ; and the Asiatic genera are Ventilago, Paliurus, and the monotypic Hovenia. Sageretia, Zizyphus, Berchemia, anc Rhamnus have representatives in the two floras. Species INTRODUCTION xxxi E us, however, are more numerous in eastern continental Asia ‘ in eastern North America, and Rhamnus davuricus Pall., and other Chinese species, from which a green dye is made, are more valuable than any of the American species. _ Vrraczz.—Of the Grape family, three genera, Tetrastigma, annem and Leea, occur in China and not in eastern America; and jae pe and Vitis are common to the two ; Cissus reaches tropical Florida but has not been reported athens Chine. Species of Vitis are less numerous in eastern North America than in eastern continental Asia ; and in North America there is no species which corresponds with the spiny- 2mmed Grape vines of China (Spinovitis). ELZOcCARPACE2.—The forest flora of the two regions is only ented by the Asiatic Eleaocarpus and Sloanea (Echinocarpus) Se this family. TILIACE2.—Tilia is widely distributed in the two regions with her more species in the Asiatic region. In size and in value as namental trees there is not much difference between the American d Asiatic Lindens. The Asiatic genera Grewia, Corchoropsis, and umfetta do not appear in eastern North America. aiid. Sie anes Meus’ Aaihoslon Ailend pele weondiy endian Pavonia, Hibiscus, and Thespesia, and in western continental ia only in Urena, Hibiscus, and Abutilon. _ Bompace#2.—Only the Asiatic Bombax represents this family in the woody plants of the two regions. _ STERCULIACE2.—The large genus Sterculia has several Chinese et sresentatives, including Sterculia platanifolia L. f., now natural- d}in several of the southern United States. Of this family these also appear in China: Heritiera, Reevesia, Kleinhovia, delicteres, Pterospermum, Abroma, and Buettneria, among which are several large trees, while in eastern North America are only Hermannia, Melochis, and Nephropetalum, all small shrubs of arid _ DILentacez.—Unrepresented in eastern North America, the r appears in China in Tetracera, Actinidia, and Clemato- bia THEACE2.—Much more important in eastern continental Asia n in eastern North America where only Gordonia and Stewartia » occu , this family has several woody plants in China, including Thea, G ordonia, Stewartia, Schima, Ternstreemia, Eurya, Hartia, Tutcheria, 4 Adinandra. One of the species of Thea, from the leaves of “whi h tea is made, is the most important member of the family ; xxxii A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA and in another (Camellia) are found some of the most valued and generally cultivated ornamental trees and shrubs. GuTTIFERZ.—Of this family only Ascyrum, Hypericum, onl ereag peach hasenr mat mares DAW ey Asia, Ascyrum, Hypericum, Cratoxylon, Garcinia, and Calophyllum represent this family. o TAMARICACE2.—With Tamarix and Myricaria in eastern con- tinental Asia this family has no representative in eastern | America, although one species of Tamarix is occasionally na in the southern United States. CistacE2.—Hudsonia of the Atlantic coast region is the woody representative of this family in the two regions. COCHLOSPERMACE2 and K@BERLINIAN2.—A shrubby of Amoreuxia of the former, and a species of Keeberlinia of the latter, both in Texas, are the only members of these families in the two regions. 4 CANELLACE2.—A West Indian species of Canella which reached tropical Florida is the only member of this family in flora of the two regions. FLACOURTIACE2.—Without a representative in eastern America this family contributes some of its most interesting to the Chinese flora in Xylosma, the monotypic Carrieria, I and Idesia, and in Poliothyrsis. STACHYURACE2, of which Stachyurus is the only genus, is TURNERACE2.—A shrubby species of Turnera from Texas is the representative of this family in the two regions. PAssIFLOR£.—Although Passiflora appears in several ac species in the southern states, Passiflora ligulifolia Mast. of southern China is the only woody species of the family in our two regions. CARICACEEZ.—Carica Papaya L., now naturalized in — : the warm countries of the world, is possibly a native of souther Florida. DaPHNACE#.—In this family the advantage is with easter continental Asia, as Dirca is its only American representative while in China there are species of Daphne, Edgeworthia, Wick: streemia, and Aquilaria. ; EL2#AGNACEZ.—In this family Shepherdia is American, F phaé Chinese, and Elzagnus is found in the two regions. LYTHRACEZ.—The monotypic Decodon is the only woody of this family in eastern North America, while in China appe species of Lagerstroemia and Woodfordia, and the monotyf Lawsonia. INTRODUCTION Xxxiii __ RuizorHoracez.—Rhizophora is common on the shores of ropical Florida, but the family is more largely represented in tropic: China by Kandalia, Bruguiera, and Carallia. ie sae A AREER in tropical Florida by Bucida, onc: , and Laguncularia, this family appears in China in Le aeetons, Quisqualis, and Illigera. _ Myrtacez.—Rhodomyrtus, Eugenia, Psidium, and Backea of the Myrtle family have reached south-eastern China, while in tropic Florida occur Eugenia, Anamomis, Chytraculia, and VW ygium, MELAsTOMACE2.—Of this family woody species of Barthea, omorphia, Blastus, Bredia, Anplectrum, and Memecylon occur in China, but a species of Tetrazygia is the only woody member of the family in eastern North America. ARALIACE®.—An arborescent species of Aralia and a species of hinopanax are the only tree and shrub of this family in eastern h America; in eastern continental Asia the family is more rgely represented by Aralia, Acanthopanax, Fatsia, Nothopanax, deptapleurum, Dendropanax, Heteropanax, and Hedera. ’ Cornacez.—Of this family Garrya occurs in eastern North America but not in China, where are found the monotypic Campto- heca, a large tree, Davidia, Alangium, Helwingia, Torricellia, _Marlea, and Aucuba. Nyssa and Cornus are common to the two “regions. Nyssa in America is widely and generally distributed from New England to Florida and Texas, with several species, of which > are large trees, but in China only a small tree is now known, onfined to the central provinces. On the other hand, Cornus is ' More numerous in species in China than in eastern North America, six of the species at least being arborescent and one a tree occasion- ally roo ft. high. _ CLETHRACE#.—Of this family there are three species of Clethra in each of our two regions. _ Enricace#.—In the number of genera of this family eastern n America has the advantage of the Asiatic region, with twenty- three genera in the former and only seventeen in the latter. Such genera as Bejaria, Leiophyllum, Menziesia, Kalmia, Zenobia, the monotypic Oxydendrum, Gaylussacia, and Arctostaphylos have ® eastern Asiatic representatives. Enkianthus, Craibiodendron, 1 Diplycosia are Chinese, without American representatives, ee Se Ce oe ee cere Vaccin- n, Gaultheria, Chamedaphne, Loiseleuria, Phyllodoce, Andromeda, tous, and Rhododendron. No single genus except Crategus so xxxiv A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA well illustrates, perhaps, the differences in the floras of the two regions as Rhododendron. In eastern North America there are only six species of true Rhododendron, all confined to the extreme eastern part of the continent, and, with one exception, of restricted range, but some one hundred and sixty species have already been. distinguished in eastern continental Asia, where the genus is widely distributed and where, on the mountains of the western and south- western provinces, is the greatest segregation of these plants in the world. On the other hand, only three species of Azalea have found in China, while in eastern North America, which is the region of their greatest development, ten or twelve species are recognized. THEOPHRASTACEZ.—The only member of this family in the ee Oe ee ee ee Florida. MyRsINACE#.—This family has a much larger representation in eastern continental Asia than in eastern North America, only one species each of Ardisia and Rapanea having reached tropical Florida, while in southern China there are several species of Ardisia, Rapanea, and Myrsine, and where also Mesa, Embelia, and i“ occur. PLUMBAGINACE2.—With Plumbago in the two regions a family is also represented in China by Ceratostigma. SAPOTACE2.—In this family eastern North America has the advantage with six genera, while only three genera reach southern China. Of these only Sarcosperma is not represented in the American flora. The other genera which are found in China, Sideroxylon and Chrysophyllum, occur in tropical Florida, which has been reached also by Dipholis and Mimusops, while Bumelia, which is an American genus, is widely distributed through the southern United States with several species. EBENACE®.—Of this family only one genus, Diospyros, is represented with two species in eastern North America, and eight or nine species in China. As a fruit tree one of the Chinese species is much more valuable than the North American species. STyRACEH.—Of this family Styrax occurs in the two regions. Halesia, with three species, is eastern North American; and = monotypic Alniphyllum and Pterostyrax are Chinese. SYMPLOCACE -—Symplocos, the only genus of the 2 appears with one. species in the southern United States, and i largely represented in China, where twenty species are guished. ! INTRODUCTION XXXV _ : OLEACE#.—In this family also the advantage is with eastern | Rontinental Asia, with eight genera, while only four are eastern North American. Fraxinus, Chionanthus, and Osmanthus are to the two regions, Adelia is American only, and Fontanesia, Forsythia, Syringa, Ligustrum, and Jasminum are Chinese and not American. Fraxinus is widely distributed in each of the two Tegions, with probably about the same number of species in each, ut the American species are usually larger and more valuable timber trees. As an ornamental plant the American Chionanthus is superior to the Chinese representative of the genus, but China’s ntributions to gardens from this family in Forsythia, Syringa, trum, and Jasminum more than make up for the beauty of the Am n Chionanthus. _ Locanace#.—Gelsemium, with one species, and Buddleia, with a species of southern Texas, are the only woody representatives of his family in eastern North America. These genera occur in China with Strychnos, Gertnera, and Gardneria. APOCYNACE#.—Vallesia, Thevetia, and Trachelospermum are woody plants of this family i in eastern North America. It has a Targer representation in southern China in Plumeria, Melodinus, R Rauwolfia, Alyxia, Alstonia, Parsonsia, Pottsia, Wrightia, Ecdy- ‘Santhera, Anodendron, Trachelospermum, and Scindechites. _ ASCLEPIADACE2.—Roulinia, with a species of southern Texas, 5 the only woody plant of this family in eastern North America, in eastern continental Asia occur woody species of Pentaneura, yptolepis, Periploca, Taxocarpus, Calotropis, Holostemma, eames, Metaplexis, Henrya, Gymnema, Marsdenia, ephanotis, Pergularia, Dregea, and Hoya. | ~ CONVOLVULACEZ. —Ipomcea and Argyreia are Chineserepresenta- tives of this family, and a woody species of Ipomoea has reached lorida from the tropics. - BORRAGINACE2.—Cordia, Bourreria, and Ehretia are the North merican genera of this family, with woody species. Cordia and etia appear in China in a larger number of species than in stern North America, and Tournefortia is Asiatic and not A ‘E if . InChina, cana with several species, Premna, Gmelina, Itex, Clerodendron, Caryopteris, Sphenodesma, and Avicennia lake a larger representation of the family, only Callicarpa, with one srican species, and Avicennia occurring in the two regions. a xxxvi A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA Labiat&.—A few small shrubs of Salvia in Texas, and the g Elsholtzia, with several species in eastern continental Asia, represe! the woody plants of this family in our two regions. 7 SOLANACE2.—Species of Lycium and Solanum, which occur if each of the two regions, are the only woody plants of this family. SCROPHULARIACE2.—Of this family Leucophyllum, a shrub of western Texas, is the only woody plant in eastern America, but in eastern continental Asia it is represented by t important genus Paulownia, of several species of age tes and Brandisia. BIGNONIACEZ.—In this family Campsis and Catalpa ar common to the two regions. The monotypic Chilopsis, and Anise stichus and Crescentia occur only in the southern United Sta Oroxylum, Dolichandrone, Stereospermum, and Radermachera Chinese and not American. GESNERACE2.—ZEschynanthus and Lysinotus,with woodyspe in China, are the representatives of this family in the two regions. — MyoporacE&.—A species of Myoporum of southern China the representative of this small family in the two regions. RvuBIACE2.—Of this family the American woody represer are Cephalanthus, the monotypic Pinckneya, Exostemma, Geni Randia, Catesbea, Hamelia, Guettarda, Erithalis, Chiocc Strumpfia, Psychotria, Morinda, and Ernodea. Of these Cepk anthus, Randia, Guettarda, Psychotria, and Morinda occur also i China, where also are woody representatives of Adina, acul; Wendlandia, Hedyotis, Mussenda, Adenosacme, Myrioneuron Webera, Gardenia, Diplospora, Antirrheea, Conthioni mre Damnacanthus, Lasianthus, Pederia, Hamiltonia, Leptodermis Serissa, Emmenopterys, Dunnia, Pavetta, and Uncaria. CAPRIFOLIACEZ.—Of the ten genera of woody plants of family found in the two regions, Dipelta, Leycesteria, K itz: and Abelia (with a species in Mexico) occur only in Chins. Of th other genera, Sambucus, Viburnum, Symphoricarpos, Linn: Lonicera, and Diervilla are common to the two regions. Symphe NT sect uit ene: Con ee num, with some seventy species, is richer in China than in easter continental America, although the American species 60am larger size and are more ornamental. Lonicera is poorly represent in eastern North America with twelve species, while in easte continental Asia more than one hundred species are recognized, region of their greatest segregation being on the mountains of ‘ central and western provinces. Se INTRODUCTION XXXvii ie GoopENIACE.—A Chinese species of Scaevola is the only woody plant of this family in the two regions. _Composit2.—Iva and Baccharis, of the Atlantic coast region, “are the American shrubby representatives of this family, which occurs in China in several species of Blumea and in Pertya. _ It appears, therefore, that 129 natural families are represented in the two regions under consideration ; that of these 92 are common to the two regions, that 12 occur in eastern North America, but not in eastern continental Asia, and that 25 occur in eastern continental Asia and not in eastern North America. Of the 692 genera in the > regions 155 are common to both, while 158 are found in eastern orth America and not in eastern continental Asia, and 379 are found in eastern continental Asia and not in eastern North America. J the tropical genera 76 have reached southern Florida and 89 From Mexico the flora of the United States has derived 42 enera of the woody plants of Texas. It is impossible to form an accurate estimate of the comparative “number of species of woody plants in the two regions at this time, mu including Crataegus it is probable that the number is as great pw . ‘* Saotuke bs gin: i byta’s dt 0) and a vet 7 ria cars Inks an, ; a Saunas ‘pe ta ’ 3 wii! : Posten ra fe aie wh T jae Sash pa CEL: ee 20 vo & ahd pct ae tt shrivel 4 whi ee aad dia wi Arete: “fi depart: Ati Wars: 9 suber ce inkiplse be ER i Sta aed: eens eae, al ur: Cage aaa peliggas ite } vt ethadaet P Bh ane he tt dee bad ponies ae ¢ rh q seeseta PRE Rel 6: 24 wit aca ise ciel mite vy “aie soe auch hee ‘ A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA CHAPTER I WESTERN CHINA MOUNTAIN RANGES AND RIVER SYSTEMS ESTERN China is separated from Thibet proper by | a series of parallel mountain ranges running almost due north and south, and divided by narrow valleys. some maps the name Yun-ling is applied to the whole iystem, with sections marked Hsueh shan, Hung shan, Taliang n, and soon. A great many local names, the majority of m unpronounceable when converted into English, are also lied to this system, but outside certain maps no one general ae for it exists. Later we shall have much to say about his region, for the time being it suffices to note the general nd of the ranges and a few of their important features. . ee ey Of cement ig, Soliveing gue ther in quick succession, these ranges are separated by ow valleys, or rather ravines. The higher peaks are well = the snow-line, and for height, savage grandeur, and drous scenery are comparable only to the Himalayan alps dia. The whole region is practically uncharted and un- d, and it is the author’s firm conviction that some of the i rival i in altitude the greatest of the Himalayan giants. out lat. 33° N., in the neighbourhood of Sungpan Ting, ighty spur is thrown out from these ranges of perpetual , and extends, with a slight southerly dip, due east for le 10° of longitude, terminating in low hills near Anluh VOL. IL—I | | un * | : | ; : : 7 2 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA | Hsien, in north-eastern Hupeh. This spur appears on map under the general name of Kiu-tiao shan (nine mountain ridges) Ta-pa ling, or Ta-pa shan. The two latter names have direc reference only to important peaks of the spur, and the first i the most appropriate, since it denotes a series of parallel chain closely packed together. The Kiu-tiao shan forms the boun dary between Szechuan and the northern provinces of Kans and Shensi, and is the watershed between the middle Yangtsz and the Han River systems. Attaining its greatest altitude ii the neighbourhood of Chengkou Ting, long. 108° 30’, lat. 32 15’ N. (approx.), it radiates from this climax buttress-lik spurs in all directions. Those on the south form the bour between Szechuan and Hupeh and extend downwards beyor the Yangtsze River. Subsidiary spurs and others thrust or from more easterly points of the range, make the whole ¢ north-western Hupeh exceedingly wild and rugged. In t middle of the province the Yangtsze River has forced i through these spurs, which run at right angles to its c and formed the famous Yangtsze Gorges. Another spur, or rather series of spurs, not so clearly defir as the preceding, and of less altitude, is thrown out in ti neighbourhood of Tali Fu, long. roo° E., lat. 25° 42’ (approx.), in western Yunnan. It extends across 1€I Yunnan, southern Kweichou, and northern Kwangsi, and fe the boundary between Hunan and Kiangsi on the north a Kwangtung on the south. In eastern Kiangsi it is deflect north and north-north-east, finally reaching the sea in neighbourhood of Ningpo, long. rar° 35’ E., lat. 29° 50’ (approx.). This mountain system extends across some parallels of longitude, and forms the watershed between th Yangtsze River on the north and numberless rivers on tl south. Of these the Red River, reaching the sea in the of Tongking, and the West River, which enters the sea Macao and Hongkong, are the chief. 4 Innumerable lateral spurs are given off by this system, < the country is extremely broken, especially in the weste parts, with which we are concerned. The province of Kwe chou is one mass of mountains, and the same is true | southern Hupeh and southern Szechuan. In these three iE (TA-P’'AO SHAN), CIRCA 21.000 rHE BARRIER RAN‘ 4 PEAK O} WESTERN CHINA 3 areas there are subsidiary ranges of considerable altitude dipping in various directions and connected up with spurs to form a heterogeneous and complex mountain system. The ‘outstanding f feature of the whole region west of 112th parallel of longitude i is the entire absence of plain or plateau, or any- thing in the nature of flat, level country, with the solitary exception of the area forming the Chengtu Plain. Of this we hall speak in due course. East of the rr2th parallel the Yangtsze River flows through a flat, alluvial plain in which isolated, or more or less connected, mountain ranges and spurs occur, but with this region we are not in this work concerned. _ The most important region comprised within the mountain ‘systems above described and west of the 112th parallel is that termed by Richthofen the “ Red Basin of Szechuan.” This egion includes the whole of Szechuan east of the Min (Fu) River to near the Hupeh boundary. It is a region of vast sricultural wealth, with a magnificent river system, teeming vith large cities, towns, and villages, and supporting an enor- ‘mous population. With the solitary exception of cotton, which is imported from the coast, it is self-contained, with a surplus ‘of produce to spare for export. Salt is produced in unlimited quantities in very many districts; coal, iron, and other minerals of economic importance abound. In short, the “Red Basin”’ is one of the richest and fairest regions in the : Chinese Empire. 4 The whole of Western China, with which this work is con- cerned, lies within the Yangtsze River basin. According to the f 2ographical information at present available, the Yangtsze has 4 s source almost due north of Calcutta, in latitude about 35° N., n the south-east edge of the Central Asian steppes. Its exact ength is unknown, but it is estimated to exceed 3000 miles. From its source it pursues a tortuous course, nearly due south, si trough wild and partially unknown country for 1000 miles. Then suddenly turning eastward it flows right through the heart of China for some 2000 miles, finally reaching the sea ‘immediately to the north of Shanghai. From its mouth to Ichang, 1000 miles, it is navigable for samers at all seasons of the year, though in winter difficulties the way of shoals and sand-bars are encountered. The ? Mj iF 3 4 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA greatest difficulty is experienced between Hankow and Ichang and this section is operated by a small fleet of shallow draught steamers specially built for the trade. The regular steamer fleet plying between Shanghai and Hankow is also specially designed for the service and is luxuriously fitted. Ocean-going steamers of deep draught can ascend as far up as Hankow except in low-water season. In summer the river overflow: and invades much of the low-lying country contiguous to it: course, and the chief difficulty in navigation at such times i: to keep to the channel. The difference between summer anc winter level is very considerable and varies to a large extent according to the width of the river and the nature of its banks At Ichang the river is 1100 yards from bank to bank, and the average difference between summer and winter levels is abow 40 feet ; in the gorges which commence some 5 miles west o Ichang, the river is narrowed to a third of its usual breadth anc the difference exceeds 100 feet. Above Ichang the river i: obstructed by rapids, rocks, and other impedimenta, and i: navigated by specially built native boats that range up t 80 tons displacement. The difficulties of navigation ar more especially confined to the stretch of the river betweer Ichang and Wan Hsien, a distance of about 200 miles. From Wan Hsien to Pingshan Hsien, some 500 miles farther west the navigation becomes easier. Much has been written on the possibility of opening the Yangtsze River to merchant steamer traffic from Ichang west. wards. So long ago as April 1900, two British river gunboat: of shallow draught, small in beam and length, and of a specia: design, ascended as far as Chungking, the commercial capita of Western China, distant above Ichang some 400 miles. Late: these boats ascended as far west as Pingshan Hsien and one oi them succeeded in reaching Mei Chou, a city on the Min (Fu) River, about 140 miles above its junction with the Yangtsze at _ Sui Fu. Since this exploit two larger and more pow British gunboats have been built for this work and are n stationed at Chungking, which has been made a naval France and Germany, following the British lead, have gunboats stationed at Chungking. During suitable these craft move up and down the river, and regularly | WESTERN CHINA 5 Seat one or more visit Pingshan Hsien and Kiating Fu, the ont city being about roo miles north of Sui Fu on the Min £ River. The advent of the gunboats had been anticipated early in 1898 by a small launch called the Leechuan, commanded by Captain C. Plant and owned by the late Mr. Archibald Little, ! the pioneer foreign merchant of these regions. The experi- ‘mental test made by this launch took practical shape in 1900 1 a commercial steamer named the Pioneer, captained by Plant and operated by a British syndicate, in which Mr. Little ,was placed on this service. She made a trip prior to the xer outbreak, after which she was chartered by the British nt and was finally purchased for naval purposes. On 27th December 1900, a German merchant ship, the Suihsiang, specially designed and built for the purpose, left Ichang for Chungking, but was wrecked and totally lost below he Tungling Rapid only some 40 miles above Ichang. _ Early in 1910 the task was again taken in hand; this time a powerfully constructed tug named the Shutung, towing along- ide a flat for passengers and cargo, wasemployed. This outfit, owned by a Chinese syndicate, was commanded by the same Captain C. Plant. The venture proved successful, and four- teen round trips were made during the year. It is fitting that ‘the man who pioneered the whole business should succeed in ‘demonstrating the practicability of merchant steam navigation ‘on the Upper Yangtsze. The work, however, is dangerous, sxceedingly difficult, and, moreover, costly, and unless some improvements are made in the river-bed, it will be some time before any considerable fleet of steamers ply on these waters. Above Pingshan Hsien navigation is only practicable for mall native craft in certain short interrupted sections. The Tiver flows for the most part through gorges or between steep Mountains, and its course is frequently broken by dangerous Tapids and cataracts that produce a seething, foaming swirl in Which nothing can live. In the autumn of rgrz an adventurous French naval officer made an extraordinary journey down the Upper Yangtsze to Sui Fu in native boats specially built for the ‘purpose. An account of this journey should prove exciting 6 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA It has been mentioned that the most difficult stretch of the Middle Yangtsze was that between Ichang and Wan Hsien. This is the region of the world-famous Yangtsze Gorges. Five in number, these gorges extend from the immediate west of Ichang to Kuichou Fu, a distance of about 150 miles. Through- out this stretch the river flows between perpendicular walls of rock, is narrowed to a third or less of its usual width, and becomes in consequence very deep. Soundings taken by British gunboats in their ascent in 1g00 gave 634 fathoms water in two places, and this when’ the wader ot Sania rather less than 6 feet above zero mark! The cliffs, largely of hard limestone, are 500 to 2000 feet or more hi and commonly 500 to 1000 feet or more sheer. The hereabouts is savagely grand and awe-inspiring. Foreign maps without exception give the name of Yangt kiang (variously spelt) to this magnificent river. Sofar It never met a Chinese to whom this name is intelligible. Ih read that the name denotes “‘ Son of the Ocean,”’ and is to the section between Wuhu and the sea. This may be so, have no knowledge on the point. Many local names are give to stretches of this river, but from Sui Fu, in western Szechuan, to its mouth it is universally spoken of by Chinese as tk Ta kiang (Great River), occasionally it is rendered uf (Long River), or simply Kiang, meaning The River. West o Sui Fu it is called the Kinsha Ho (River of Golden Sands); tt Chinese do not consider this the main stream, but regard Min (Fu) Riverasthe principal. Theyrecognizethat the Kinsh has the larger volume, but it is navigable only for some 40 r and then loses itself in wild and barbarous regions. The on the other hand, is navigable to Chengtu, some 200 above Sui Fu, and is therefore to the utilitarian mind of tt Chinese of much greater importance. From near Batar northward the Kinsha Ho is known by the Thibetan name Drechu, and finally near its source it goes under the Tangu name of Murussu. ; In ascending the Yangtsze from Ichang to Chungking tl observant traveller is struck by the insignificant character the tributary streams. Apparently the only one of importan joins the main stream at Fu Chou on the right bank. Th ONVHOL LV MAHAIM AZSLONVA DHL | : WESTERN CHINA 7 i stream, the Kien kiang, rises in western Kweichou and flows through the heart of this province. It is navigable from its _ mouth to Szenan Fu, and beyond, for specially constructed native boats. Apart from this river there is no tributary of seeming importance until Chungking is reached, yet nearly every town and village of note stands at the junction of some “small stream with the Yangtsze. Here and there men will be found hauling small, stout-bottomed boats over the stones at the mouths of these small rivers. That the main stream is joined by many tributary streams a glance at the map proves. In western Hupeh the country is wildly mountainous, and the streams are torrents, pure and simple. In eastern Szechuan the country is much less wild and the streams of a different character, and why they appear unnavigable is, on the surface, 10t obvious. _ In rg10 I journeyed overland by a little-known route from Ichang to.Chengtu. Entering Szechuan a little to the north of Taning Hsien, | travelled due west to Paoning Fu, and from hence south-west by the mainroad. On this journey I crossed the principal streams which join the Yangtsze on its left bank east of the Min River. The surprising thing observed was the fact that they were one and all navigable for boats of arying sizes for long distances. On inquiry, I found that avigation ceased on most of them some 2 to 5 miles before their union with the Yangtsze. The Kuichou Fu, Yunyang, and Xai Hsien Rivers may be cited as examples, affording evidence vf this state of things. Near the embouchure of tributary streams the Yangtsze is generally narrowed and the water gorged by boulders and ‘detritus choking the mouths of these lateral waterways ; ‘Tapids and races frequently occur at these points. The accepted iew is that enormous quantities of debris are brought down by these tributaries and deposited at their mouths. This theory s all very well when applied to mountain torrents, but most of the streams under discussion pursue a comparatively placid course with easy currents for some 50 miles or more before reaching the Yangtsze. Their volume and force of current is Insufficient even in summer floods to carry down the enormous ‘quantities of detritus which choke up their mouths. My i | | | , } : ; \ Se ee aa lel de sit atin 8 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA personal observations put the responsibility on the main stream itself. During the summer floods the Yangtsze brings down vast quantities of mud and detritus, which it deposits wherever opportunity offers. Flowing as the Yangtsze does, more or less between steep banks, the mouths of tributary streams afford the most favourable places for the deposition of this debris. The volume of the main stream is enormously greater, and its current so much stronger, than that of the tributaries that it simply thrusts them back and silts up their mouths. The small quantity of debris brought down by the tributary streams would also be deposited hereabouts owing to the slacking of the flow consequent upon the damming of their debouchure. At Chungking the Yangtsze is joined on its left bank by the Kialing or so-called “‘ Little River.” A glance at a map shows that this river is made up of three streams blrvigg hs oa Ho Chou. The Kialing River and its tributaries drain a shaped area, in extent more than half oe ee situated north of the Yangtsze. Their importance is due their being navigable for such extreme distances. The col easterly branch is navigable, for small craft, to some 40 miles north of Tunghsiang Hsien; the next branch is navigable to Tungchiang Hsien ; and the next to north of Pa Chou. The central (Paoning) river is navigable for fairly large boats to Kuangyuan Hsien, and skiffs laden with medicines and other nativeproducts descend to this town from Pikou, inthe province of Kansu. The most westerly branch is navigable to Pai-shih- pu, a few miles north of Chungpa, and one of its western tri- butaries taps the north-east corner of the Chengtu Plain. | The Kialing River system is thus the greatest collecting and distributing waterway in Szechuan, and its commercial im- portance, probably greater than that of the Yangtsze itself and its tributaries west of Chungking, is not generally The To kiang, which joins the Yangtsze at Lu Chou, though a natural stream, owes very much of its volume and i . to water artificially lead from Kuan Hsien across the part of the Chengtu Plain via Sintu Hsien, and a sec branch via Han Chou, which meet together at the great market town of Chao-chia-to. In summer it is possible to descend in boats from Han Chou and Sintu Hsien to Lu Chou. A GENERAL VIEW IN NORTH-WESTERN HUPEH WESTERN CHINA 9 ie Spee Oe Rival rope; esve nt Spires water, ie navigable from Kuan Hsien and Chengtu downwards. The Chengtu nch is artificially formed by canals led across the plain from Kuan Hsien, and unites with the Kuan Hsien stream and its tributaries at Chiangkou. A tributary of the Min, which joins ¢ Hsinbsin Hsien, is navigable in high water for small boats to g Chou, a city situated at the extreme south-west corner « f the Chengtu Plain. The Min (Fu) River rises some 35 miles north of the Sungpan Ting, near the boundary of north-west Szechuan and the Amdo Tegion in lat. 33° N. (approx.). Immediately to the south ‘of Sungpan city it plunges into wild, mountainous country, flowing through a gorge from which it emerges only a few miles north of Kuan Hsien, where it becomes navigable for rafts only. At Kuan Hsien a famous and gigantic irrigation system is in operation, but of this we shall deal in due place. The Min is really onlya tributary of the Tung River, which it ins at Kiating Fu, but since it admits of navigation it is of 20re practical importance, and for this cause the Chinese give pre-eminence. The Tung River is only navigable for a few les above Kiating, though rafts descend from a much higher int west. Its tributary the Ya, which joins it immediately of Kiating, is of greater commercial importance, and a very siderable raft traffic ascends and descends this stream from ‘achou, which is the centre of the brick-tea industry of western echuan. _ The Tung River is really one of the longest rivers in Sze- huan, having its source in the north-eastern corner of Thibet, out lat. 33° 40’ N. It flows through the western frontier the tribes country, where it is known as the Tachin Ho eat Gold River), and ultimately strikes the highway from tengtu to Lhassa at Wassu-kou, a hamlet 18 miles east of ‘Tachienlu. From this point to its union with the Min at Kiating it is called the Tung Ho, though around Fulin it goes by the name of Tatu Ho. Owing to its unnavigability its co ommercial importance is small, but this does not excuse the Seog apher’s scant appreciation of it in the past, even if it ‘explains the Chinese view. _ Considerably west of Pingshan Hsien the Yangtsze is ca TP tt ca = .: major rapids during the low-water season, known as the intan, some 45 miles west of Ichang, a bed of shale is beau- tifully exposed. This bed is some 1800 feet thick, and com- ased principally of olive-green argillite, with local black shale d quartzite. It is of the Middle Paleozoic age. _ Resting apparently conformably on this series of shale is vast deposit of Upper Carboniferous limestone 4000 or more et thick. This is the characteristic formation throughout > Ichang and Mitan Gorges; it occurs also throughout the tern end of the Wushan Gorge and in the Kui Fu(Wind-box) orge beyond. The prevailing rock is dark grey or blackish aestone, full of marine fossils and with occasional thin layers # anthracite coal. This also weathers into wonderful escarp- nts, but commonly they are boldly rounded with less linear mensions. This formation is the most general throughout tern Hupeh, on both sides of the river, though greater on ® north than on the south, where the Cambrian-Ordovician nation preponderates. Next in succession come the Permo- ozoic beds of red shale and sandstone, with thin layers of rine limestone and coal, which were described in reference Ichang. These beds are characteristic of the country west the Mitan Gorge, as far as the entrance to the Wushan Gorge, acipally on the left bank. Coal occurs in this stretch in many ces, more especially around Patung Hsien. Glacial deposits d signs of glacial action are in evidence in many parts of stern Hupeh, though nowhere on a large scale. The most tessible of these is on the Yangtsze itself, opposite Nanto, a milet situated on the extreme western end of the Ichang Gorge d some 20 miles above Ichang city. At this point can be seen tglacial deposit about 120 feet thick, overlaid by marine lime- of the Cambrian-Ordovician age referred to above. All 14 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA the evidences of ice action are well disclosed, and the who deposit is most instructively exhibited. Since the deposition: these various systems great regional disturbances have take place and the strata has commonly been bent up from a gre. depth. The summits of the very highest peaks in weste Hupeh are usually comprised of Silurian (? Devonian) shales. None of the useful or precious minerals occurs in quantity: western Hupeh. Coal is scattered through the entire regio but is nowhere found in abundance and the quality is ij different. Iron ore is worked in places and in one or tw localities the quality is good, but usually it is poor. Copp occurs in two districts (Chienshih and Hsingshan) but is m worked to any great extent. Salt, so abundant throughor the Red Basin of Szechuan, does not occur. The sandy clay and marls are used in brick and tile making, and lime is bur in several places and used for building purposes. Both tl clays and the limestone here mentioned belong to the Perm Mesozoic beds. The carboniferous ae used for various construction works. In the Gorges the minin stream Ss jdimed typ demiieiaaannn branches which flow through glens of wondrous beauty. The: streams, winding their way through, usually fill nearly the enti bed -of the glen and are bounded by walls of cliff 300 to : feet sheer. Waterfalls are numerous and wherever it is vegetation is rampant. The tops of the cliffs are worn i curious and grotesque shapes. Caves abound and in the: stalactites and stalagmites occur. Subterranean springs common and many of the small rivers originate from s sources. They issue forth from some cave, or from the f. of a cliff, or well up through level rocks. The Hsingsh River is an example of this mode of origin. The Chinese a much legendary lore to all these caves and subterranean s and frequently associate fine temples with such spots. In the vicinity of the Yangtsze the more commanding pez and crags are crowned by temples, usually belonging to # Taouist cult. Commonly these temples cap seemingly in: cessible points, and one marvels how the material used erecting them was transported thither. Whenever possible few trees, usually Xylosma racemosum, var. pubescens (Wi r a me a J nats: nae —_ SAN-YU-TUNG GLEN; CLIFFS OF CARBONIFEROUS LIMESTONE WESTERN HUPEH 15 reen), Gleditsia, Cypress, Ginkgo, and Pine are planted near the temples and add much to the beauty of the scene. Such smples are well built, but unfortunately, since the interior is isually dark, filthy, and uninviting, a close inspection robs hem of most of their charm. From the distance they look nost picturesque, the style of architecture being in harmony ith the surroundings, and one admires very much the taste and culture which called them into existence. The preservation of the “‘ Good Luck” of towns, villages, and communities by the arding off of evil influences is a matter of great moment in hina, and with this good work the temples are associated. The pagodas, found all over China, have been erected solely with this end in view. Geomancy enters very largely into Taouism and holds a most important place in Chinese thought, and, in fact, governs many of their actions. As illustrating this we will take an example at Ichang. Facing the town, on the Tight bank of the river opposite, is a pyramidal hill nearly 600 t high, called by foreigners the “‘ Pyramid.” This hill was supposed to exert a baneful influence over the town, and was held responsible for the town’s poverty in local literati. Not until a temple was built on an eminence behind the town, sufficiently high to enable it to overlook the Pyramid, was this evil influence counteracted, and the Goddess of Good Luck induced to smile on the town. The very year this temple was Pompleted a student passed the provincial examinations with gh honours. Was not this the beneficial result of the Building? The temple, called Tungshantzu, is richly endowed d forms a strikingly conspicuous object from all points of approach. The logic of ‘‘ Fung Shui,” as this cult is called, is yond the grasp of the average Occidental brain, but of its Sffect on the Chinese mind one is constantly made familiar. _ Toowildand savage for extensive agricultural development, and with a marked absence of useful mineral deposits, western Hupeh is one of the poorest, most sparsely populated, and ‘east known parts of China. For these same reasons it is of articular interest to the botanist, since the vegetation there nas been less molested than is usually found to be the case in hina generally. Even here, it is hardly necessary to say, , ery available bit of land either is, or has been, under cultiva- {4 16 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA tion, but much of the country is of such a nature as to preclud agricultural development, even under Chinese patience an ingenuity. Up to 3000 or 4000 feet, wherever it is possible, the mour tain-slopes, hill-tops, and valleys are cultivated, but the countr is made up so much of sheer cliff and crag, and is generally « such a rocky character, that even where cultivation is possib! the crop won from the soil is poor and scarcely recompensé for the outlay of labour involved in its production. Aboy 6000 feet the higher slopes and mountains defy even Chine: skill and patience, and it is here that patches of virgin fore: and much woodland remain. The higher mountains are ric in various Chinese medicines, and men eke out a livelihood i gathering them. Considerable areas in this higher countr were formerly cleared and crops of the Irish potato raisec But some twenty odd years ago the potato disease attacke and devastated the crops, and ruined the peasants, who wer forced to migrate to lower and more congenial altitude: Ruined houses and numerous graves, overgrown with coars herbs, brambles, and shrubs, tell of former habitation ; but tc day, in the higher parts of this region, it is possible to walk fror morning till night without seeing an inhabited dwelling « a living person. Wherever the valleys admit of sufficier cultivation to support them, small riverine villages occu Tiny hamlets, farmhouses, and peasants’ huts are frequent u to 4500 feet altitude. Above this little agriculture is attempte and the population is exceedingly sparse. I have travelled pretty extensively in the back-blocks ¢ China during my eleven years’ acquaintance with the and consider north-western Hupeh the most difficult part China to explore, the Chino-Thibetan borderland not The absence of food-supplies and accommodation for ic the lack of roads, and the difficult nature of the country general, render travel in this region exceedingly arduous. — As an Appendix to this chapter, it may be of interest give an account of the flora obtaining in the vicinity of I which, from the amount of collecting that has been done in neighbourhood, holds a classic place in the annals of exploration work in China. —_ PRIMULA SINENSIS WESTERN HUPEH 17 APPENDIX ig THE FLORA OF ICHANG Tue Flora of Ichang and the neighbourhood up to 2000 feet altitude, as included in this note, is essentially of a warm mperate character, and includes not a few sub-tropical orms. Nevertheless, we find also a number of cool temperate lants, and what really obtains is a fusion of these three floras, with the warm temperate element in the ascendancy. The following characteristic plants will serve to illustrate the ‘point: Aleurites Fordii, Liquidambar formosana, Ligustrum dum, Cesalpinia sepiaria, Toddalia asiatica, Wisteria nensis, Rhododendron indicum, Pyracantha crenulata, Primula Is, Anemone japonica, Aspidistra punctata, Reinwardtia gyna, and Woodwardia radicans. The low hills around hang are very barren-looking, being mostly clad with Spear grass’’ (Heteropogon contortus), with a few shrubs and herbs here and there, and relieved by small woods of Pinus Massoniana and Cupressus funebris, with occasional groves of the common Bamboo, Phyllostachys pubescens. - However, it is not to these low hills that we look for the floral wealth of Ichang, but to the limestone cliffs of the glens and gorges. Here the variety is astonishing, a striking feature ing the quantity of well-known flowering shrubs. _ The two first shrubs to flower in the early spring are ‘Daphne genkwa and Coriaria nepalensis. It is a thousand ities we cannot succeed with the Daphne in England, since it | such a lovely plant—by far the finest species of the genus. Here, at Ichang, it grows everywhere, on the bare exposed lis, amongst conglomerate rock and limestone boulders, on ‘aves, and amongst the stones which are piled around the cultivated plats in the gorge, sometimes in partial shade, ‘but more usually fully exposed to the scorching sun. The plants are, on the average, about 2 feet in height, and are but eldom branched. Imagine the annual suckers from a Plum tr 2, and you have the appearance of these Daphne plants. _ -VOL. I.—2 : i iz bes ' Py a 18 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA For two-thirds of their height they are so densely clad with flowers that they look like one large thyrse. The colour is lilac, often very dark; but a white form is not uncommon. Its outward resemblance to Lilac leads to its being so called by the foreign residents at Ichang. The Coriaria is not so well known and is not nearly so attractive. Its flowers are polygamous, and the plant when in fruit is rather showy. The Chinese consider its foliage and stem poisonous to cattle. Wisteria sinensis is abundant, often scaling high trees, but the semi-bush form is the more common. Its flowers are borne in great abundance, and vary much in shade of colour, the white form being, however, rather rare. Another well-known shrub which abounds here is Loro- petalum chinense. On the tops of the cliffs, amongst loose conglomerate and limestone boulders, it forms a well-nigh im- penetrable scrub. The bushes are seldom more than 3 feet in height, very much branched, and when in full flower look like patches of snow at a distance. Messrs. Veitch show the plant very well, but there is an enormous gulf between the best grown pot plants and the plants in a state of nature. In Devon ang Cornwall, if planted in a rockery, it ought to thrive. Rose bushes abound everywhere, sad. io. Aecl aan afford the greatest show of any one kind of flower. levigata and R. microcarpa are more common in fully 5€ places. Rosa multiflora, R. moschata, and R. Banksia particularly abundant on the cliffs and crags of the glens a gorges, though by no means confined thereto. The Musk < Banksian Roses often scale tall trees, and a tree thus festoone with their branches laden with flowers is a sight to be re membered. To walk through a glen in the early morning o after a slight shower, when the air is laden with the soft deliciou: perfume from myriads of Rose flowers, is truly a walk throug: an earthly paradise. In March and April Sophora vicitfolia is very fine in th glens and gorges when it is covered with masses of bluish whit flowers. This plant has a very wide distribution. It iscommo in Yunnan, and in the warm valleys of rivers bordering Thibe! The Ichang plant is much less spiny than that of Yunnan a WESTERN HUPEH 19 western Szechuan. Possibly the latter is really the Indian _ S. Moorcroftianwm. _ Two very common plants on the cliffs in the glens are Eriobotrya japonica (Loquat) and Meratia precox, Both flower bout Christmas. These are two out of many plants which formerly were erroneously supposed to be natives of Japan. - Among conglomerate boulders Caryopteris ineana is ommon, but is not nearly so fine as it is farther west. Pyra- cantha crenulata and Vitex Negundo are exceedingly common, iy nd so also is Cesalpinia sepiaria. This thorny shrub is semi- scandent in habit, and very like wv ike the better known C. japonica. Its handsome foliage and erect thyrsoid racemes of bright _ yellow flowers make it a very conspicuous object. — Symplocos crategoides, with its pretty white flowers and ght blue fruits, is abundant. This is a useful and charming b, and deserves to be better known. Deutzia Schneideriana, agerstraemia indica, Rhododendron indicum, Jasminum floridum, }) Riis dornenioe Ilex cornuta, Viburnum utile, and Buddleia ‘officinalis are all extremely common shrubs. Of other well or lesser known shrubs which are common, I may mention— | Abelia chinensis, A. parvifolia, Rhus Cotinus, Buddleia astatica, Ilex pedunculata, I. corallina, Deutzia discolor, Des- me ium floribundum, Eleagnus pungens, E. glabra, Spirea Ss + f be t } ay : i f : ‘ inensis, Eurya japonica, Hypericum chinense, Hydrangea trigosa, Berchemia lineata, Evonymus alata, Polygala Mariesii, fiburnum brachybotryum, V. propinquum, Thea cuspidata, [Rubus parvifolius, and many other species. Chaenomeles sinensis with red, and C. cathayensts with white or blush-white flowers, | Ti cceumsonly cultivated: Lengthy as is the list, I am not | justified in omitting tea ilicifolia. This Holly-like shrub, with | c ng, pendent racemes of white flowers, is one of the handsomest 0 f all the Ichang shrubs. Of fluviatile shrubs, the commonest once chinense, Salix variegata, Ficus impressa, Rhamnus s, Adina globiflora, Myricaria germanica, and a curious ies (Boas stenophylla). Climbers are very much in evidence, : (a d include such beautiful plants as Lonicera japonica, Trachelo- | Spermum jasminoides, Pueraria Thunbergiana, Clematis Henryi, - Benthamiana, C. Armandt, C. uncinata, Vitis flexuosa, Par- th ocissus Henryana, P. Thomsonii, and Mucuna sempervirens. 20 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA This last is a rather remarkable plant. Two miles above Ichang, on the right bank, is an enormous specimen, called by foreigners the “ Big Creeper.’ It covers several hundred square feet of ground, climbing over several Pine trees and many Bamboos. The base of the main trunk is almost as thick as a man’s body ; the flowers are dark chocolate coloured, and are borne in racemes on the old wood ; the legumes are 2 to 24 feet in length, and contain many large black bean-like seeds. It flowers in May. Ichang does not possess a great number of trees, but the variety is really astonishing. Paulownia Duclouxii and Melia Azedarach, with their enormous panicles of flowers, are very striking in the spring. In the autumn, Sapium sebiferum, with its wonderful autumnal tints, stands alone. In winter the ever- green Ligustrum lucidum, and Xylosma racemosum, vat. pube- scens, are very conspicuous. The latter nearly always shelters some wayside shrine. Perhaps the commonest trees are— Gleditsia sinensis, Rhus javanica, Platycarya strobilacea, Quercus serrata, Cedrela sinensis, and Pterocarya stenoptera. The Mistletoe occurs on the last-named tree. Other lesscommon trees are Sterculia platanifolia, Populus Silvestrit, Crataegus hupehensis, Celtis sinensis, Dalbergia hupeana, Acer oblongum, Cunninghamia lanceolata, Ailanthus glandulosa, Broussonetia papyrifera, Ulmus parvifolia, Hovenia dulcis, Sapindus muko- rossi, Salix babylonica, and Sophora japonica. Of this latter a curious variety occurs in which the leaves and young shoots are clothed with a dense white velvety indumentum. As with flowering shrubs, so with herbs, though in a less degree, Ichang is the home of many favourite garden plants. One of the commonest and best known is Primula obconica. This charming herb abounds everywhere, but more especially in moist, grassy places on the banks of the Yangtsze and in the glens. Occasionally, under very favourable conditions, im height, size of flower, and luxuriance of foliage, it approaches the cultivated form, but more usually it is a dwarf and almost insignificant weed. Again, Ichang is the home of the Chinese Primrose, and the type of the cultivated Chrysanthemum occurs there also. Other favourites which are common are— : WESTERN HUPEH aI Corydalis thalictrifolia, Anemone japonica, Sedum sarmen- tosum, Saxifraga sarmentosa, Iris japonica, Reinwardtia trigyna, 5 peers aurea, L. radiata, Rehmannia angulata, Hemerocallis fulva, and H. flava. Other characteristic herbs are: Adeno- phora polymorpha, Bletia hyacinthina, Asarum maximum, _ Ophiorrhiza cantonensis, Viola Patrinii, Delphinium chinense, Lysimachia Henryi, L. clethroides, Potentilla chinensis, P. discolor, _ Fragaria indica, Thalictrum minus, Mazus pulchellus, Verbena | officinalis, Platycodon grandiflorum, and many Composite, | Leguminosa, and Umbellifere. Perhaps Ichang is best known to horticulturalists generally s the home of the lovely Lilium Henryi. This acknowledged favourite occurs on the limestone and conglomerate rocks, but is now bynomeanscommon. Lilium Brownii and its varieties, thloraster and leucanthum, are fairly common; L. concolor urs, but is rare. Ferns are not rich in species, but Woodwardia radicans, unda regalis, Pteris longifolia, P.serrulata, Nephrodiummolle, Cheilanthes patula, and Gleichenia linearis are very abundant. _A variety of Adiantum Capillus-Veneris is very common on ' stalagmitic limestone in the glen. Pieces of these rocks covered ith Ferns are detached and find their way all over China, being popularly known as “‘ Ichang Fern-stones.”’ ’ Ahasty reference to the common floating plants of the ponds ‘and ditches around Ichang must bring this note to a close. Euryale ferox, with its handsome foliage, is very common ; | Nelumbium speciosum is, of course, cultivated. Other common ‘aquatics are—Limnanthemum nymphoides, Jussie@a repens, vinia natans, Trapa natans, Azolla filiculoides, Marsilea uadrifolia, Monochoria vaginalis, Eriocaulon Buergerianum, ‘and several species of Potamogeton and Utricularia. In late utumn, when the Azolla changes to a rich crimson tint, the onds look very fine. In some rice fields near Ichang Dr. snry found a very anomalous plant. It was made the type of a new genus—Trapella sinensis, and doubtfully referred to the natural order Pedalinee. U CHAPTER III METHODS OF TRAVEL ROADS AND ACCOMMODATION HE advent of steam navigation on the upper-middl Yangtsze has brought Chungking, the commercia metropolis of Western China, three weeks nearer th coast and occidental civilization. This is a very considerabl gain to the would-be traveller in these regions, yet it only post pones for a little time longer the inevitable. Sooner or late the traveller must dispense with the comforts and luxurieso modern occidental methods of travel and adapt himself tothos more primitive and decidedly less comfortable of the Oriental In the regions with which we deal there is nothing in the natur of wheeled vehicular traffic save only the rude wheel-barrow in use on the Chengtu Plain. There are no mule caravans, an scarcely a riding pony is to be found. For overland trave there is the native sedan-chair and one’s own legs; for river travel the native boat. Patience, tact, and abundance of tim are necessary, and the would-be traveller lacking any of thes essentials should seek lands where less primitive method obtain. Endowed with the virtues mentioned, and havin unlimited time at his disposal, he may travel anywhere an everywhere in China in safety, with considerable pleasure an abundant profit in knowledge. With her industrious toilin millions, her old, old civilization, her enormous natural wealt and wondrous scenery, China alternately charms and fascit ates, irritates and plunges into despair, all who sojourn lon within her borders. No country, outside Europe and Nort America, is of such perennial interest to the world at large: China. Ever-changing yet ever the same, she is the lin which connects the twentieth century with the dawn HOUSE-BOAT CHINESE OUR OUR CARAVAN METHODS OF TRAVEL 23 . civilization, epochs before the Christian era. To travel leisurely through this vast country is an education which _ leaves an indelible impress on all fortunate enough to have _ had the experience. The Chinese do not see time from the _ Westerner’s view-point, and for the traveller in the interior _ parts of China the first, last, and most important thing of all _ is to ever bear this in mind. _ The majority of travellers still ascend the river above Ichang in native boats, and it will probably be a long time before a regular fleet of steamers ply these dangerous waters and render the native boat obsolete. The journey from Ichang _to Chungking and beyond has been described so often that _the subject is threadbare, and I have no intention of describing it over again. Volumes have been written on this subject, and some day perhaps a writer will arise and do full justice to the theme. | I have made the journey up and down many times, and on each occasion have been more and more impressed with the sublime beauty of the Gorges. The scenery in these savage chasms is all and more than any writer has described it as being. It must be seen to be fully understood and appreciated. The more often one travels up and down this stretch of the river the deeper grows one’s awe and respect for the many rapids, swift currents, and innumerable difficulties which im- pede navigation. The native boats are perfectly fitted for the navigation of these difficult waters ; they are the outcome of generations of experience, and the balance-rudder and turret-build have been ‘used in these craft long before their adoption by Western nations. The men, too, who earn their livelihood in navigating these boats, understand their business thoroughly. Much has been written by hasty travellers on the shortcomings and Incompetence of these men, that is as unwarrantable as it is un- deserved. These Chinese boatmen are careful, absolutely com- petent and thorough masters of their craft, and the more one sees of them and their work the more one’s admiration grows. Oriental methods are not occidental methods, but they suc- seed just the same! When on the boat the Westerner will do to adapt himself to Eastern methods; any attempt to 24 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA enforce those of the West generally ends in disaster. accidents on the Yangtsze have been caused through the foreigner, ignorant of local conditions, difficulties and dangers, forcing the captain of the boat to proceed against his better judgment. The traveller is advised when engaging a boat to do so through a responsible Chinese business house, to have an agreement drawn up setting forth the arrangements desired, and then to leave the boat-master to carry out his engagement in his own way. This is the only way to ensure safety, and on paper no one would attempt to gainsay it, yet in practice this is commonly done, but always to the jeopardy of the trans- gressor. Since we shall have much to say on the subject of over- land travel a word or two anent roads seems fitting and desirable. To the uninitiated this subject may seem trivial, but to the experienced it is otherwise. Chinese roads make a lasting impression on all who travel over them, and the vocabu- lary of the average traveller is not rich enough to thoroughly relieve the mind in this matter. The roads are of two kinds, paved and unpaved. I have yet to meet the traveller whose mind is thoroughly made up as to which of these is worse and the more difficult to negotiate. A clever writer once wrote : “An Imperial highway in China is not one which is kept in order by the Emperor, but rather one which may have to be put in order for the Emperor.’’! When any important official takes up duties in a distant part of the empire the local officials put the roads over which he has to travel in some semblance of repair. Such work is always hastily done by labour forced and grudgingly given, and in mountainous districts the first severe rainstorm destroys considerable portions of it. It is nobody’s real business to look after the roads, and nobody does. The land devoted to roadways is com- mandeered, and in agricultural districts the farmer takes good care to keep these roads down to a minimum width. It usually happens that the roadways get narrower and narrower every year, until the advent of some important official forces the local authorities into having them repaired and restored to their original width. Roads in China owe their origin to 1 Arthur H. Smith, Village Life in China, p. 35. ee ee METHODS OF TRAVEL 25 e same causes that obtain elsewhere in the world, namely, litary conquest and commercial interchange between distant -alities. Throughout the length and breadth of China run imperial hways, few in number, it is true, but of vast importance, ace they connect the imperial capital with the capitals of the ovinces. These were made for military purposes in early nes, when the Emperors were busy conquering the country d extending their territories. They are all of great strategical portance, and were originally paved throughout with huge xcks of stone. Often, indeed, they were actually blasted and eavated from solid rock. They vary in width according to > configuration of the country and the nature of the traffic hey have to carry. In the northern parts overland travel is Ommonly done by cart, and the roads are adapted to such ffic. In the parts with which we are concerned the country oo wild and rugged for wheels, and the only recognized mode travelling is by means of sedan-chair. The imperial roads vere originally made sufficiently wide to enable two chairs to one another freely. Ten to twelve feet is a broad highway hese parts, and it must be conceded that roads of such width ply serve their purpose. Unfortunately this width is rarely ntained for any considerable distance. The grading of se ancient highways was well done, and the whole work peaks volumes for the ability and energy of those old-time Mgineers. Like much else in China these roads were once mificent, but to-day they are far from this. In general y are sadly neglected. Floods have destroyed them here there, often the paving blocks have been stolen for house- ng and other purposes, and gaps of unpaved, muddy itches, almost impassable in rainy weather, occur all too ently. Sufficient of the original road remains to stir niration for the skill and foresight of the engineers, long e dead, and to set the traveller longing for those halcyon s of old. In the prosperous parts of China, highways connect all the cipal cities, town, and villages. These are usually 8 to 10 wide, and though originally paved throughout, are now in State of more or less disrepair. Nearly all the towns and 26 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA villages in Western China are situated on the banks of strea for the simple reason that the valleys offered lines of least resi ance. Even when the streams are not navigable they affc easier means of access to the interior than the mountains a forest-clad country. In a general way all the older ros in China follow the courses of streams as closely as possi leaving them only when the nature of the country necessita the departure, and watersheds intervene. ’ Bypaths and narrow tracks permeate the country in ev direction, and abound even in the most sparsely populat mountainous regions. Some one has very wisely made out tl the exchange of salt was the first commerce engaged in mankind at large. Salt is, and long has been, a Governm«e monopoly in China, consequently the practice of salt-smuggli has gone on from time immemorial, and the majority the mountain-paths were very probably first struck out smugglersof salt. Indeed, many important trade-routesto-d: in China, presumably originated in this way. The province Szechuan is abundantly rich in salt and also in mountain-patl From a lengthy study I have come to regard this network bypaths as the result of salt traffic, and more especially illi traffic. There are to-day many such paths throughout t Hupeh-Szechuan boundary, used for practically no other trai than that of salt, and by these paths salt still reaches cert districts in defiance of the law. Very useful, if difficult, t traveller finds these bypaths, for without them it would impossible to traverse some of the wildest and most terest parts of central and Western China. When travelling overland in China it is not possible to 1 tents, and one has perforce to make use of such accommoda as the country affords. The Chinese do not understand ten and it is unwise to try innovations in a land where the are unduly inquisitive. The traveller gets along best avoids publicity as much as possible. On all the main ro there are inns of sorts, usually very filthy, and in season : ing in mosquitoes, creeping things, and stinks, the la fact, being always in evidence. On the byways, and especially in the mountains, accommodation is hard to find is of the meanest description. However, one is usually ti CINIHUA TANVWHY § INId ~ LOM AUZSLAHOD LY ‘IN.LSOH METHODS OF TRAVEL 27 and any shelter suffices for a night’s halt. In wet weather, or when held up through flooded torrents or what not, the absence of proper accommodation is acutely felt. In the wilds of China one hungers for the dak bungalows of India and Ceylon, or accommodation on similar lines. A traveller in China should have with him an outfit, com- ‘ising bed, bedding, victuals, cooking paraphernalia, and isect-powder. It sounds rather forbidding on paper, but pour is cheap, and a little experience enables one to keep the e of outfit within reasonable limits. The necessary coolies d always be obtained through a respectable agency and agreement made in writing, stating all necessary details. head-man, called a “‘ Fu-tou,”’ should be given charge of = coolies. In parts of China where foreigners are well known, it is ble to dispense with the luxury of a sedan-chair, but it ust be remembered that a sedan-chair is an outward and ‘ible sign of respectability. It is the recognized medium of avel, and, quite apart from its real use, it is a necessity, since $ presence ensures respect. In the out-of-the-way parts of ina, even though it is carried piecemeal, a chair is of greater rvice and value to the traveller than a passport. According treaty, all foreigners travelling in China must furnish them~- selves with a passport, which must be shown on request. This a matter of considerable importance, and should never be nitted. _Onething more is necessary ere the caravan is fully equipped, id that is a good cook. Unless the traveller speaks Chinese must have a servant able to speak broken English. A good avelling servant is hard to find, but the last thing the average veller should dream of doing is to engage an interpreter. A od domestic servant will fill this function in so far as it is vCodcd hy Ki t 2. : - — = naib ee CHAPTER IV IN QUEST OF FLOWERS A JourNEY IN NorTH-WESTERN HuPEH N 4th June 1910 I left Ichang for Chengtu, via a 1 route through the wilds of north-west Hupeh. W 600 miles of overland travel ahead the caravan t . been fitted up with all the skill at my command, and wit enthusiasm to spur us on I felt that the difficulties would prove insurmountable. Nearly all the men had been ate with me on former journeys of a similar nature. ‘ We took the lesser road by way of San-yu-tung glen f Hsingshan Hsien, in consequence of the main road be congested by coolies engaged in blazing a trail for the Han Szechuan Railway. The caravan consisted of twenty carryir coolies, several men for collecting and general work en r a chair for the Boy, and another for myself. My own st; was not propitious. I was riding in my chair and had scare cleared the precincts of the foreign settlement when one the poles snapped. This occasioned an hour’s delay, b happening where it did new poles were secured without di culty. It is never easy to make an early start the first da and it is always advisable to count on a short stage. It one o'clock when we reached the mouth of the San-yu-tu glen, 5 miles above Ichang, and overtook the main caravai The weather was hot, and we only did another 15 li? to Shi lao-che, making 35 li in all. This little hamlet consists of few scattered houses, and we availed ourselves of the larges which happened to be a wine-distillery, and the smell of st brewing was very strong. The journey up the San-yu-tung glen was very interestin * Ten li=three English miles. | IN QUEST OF FLOWERS 29 auch of the scenery being rugged and grand. The cliffs of hard Mestone are usually 500 feet or more sheer, and are the home Goral and other animals, and also of many cliff-loving plants. a the crevices and niches the Chinese Primrose (Primula ynsis) finds its home, but the flowers were past and the sr-stems all bent towards the clifis to ensure the seeds being osited in the rock crevices. This plant is the parent of greenhouse Primulas, and in February and early March cliffs present a wonderful picture, being covered with mnies of plants, one mass of warm mauve-pink flowers. erever the cliffs are not absolutely sheer, vegetation is apant. Pine trees (Pinus Massoniana) fringe the summits Rosa microcarpa was in full flower, otherwise there was y little blossom to be seen. Most of the shrubs being spring- ering were in young fruit. here was considerable delay in starting the next morning. or two of the coolies gave up, and others had to be found. road was vile all day, and it took us 10} hours to cover For the first ro li the road continues to ascend the en, which narrows and presents even finer scenery than that pote erday. We passed a lovely natural grotto full of es inside, and with the dripping external rocks one 5 of Maiden-hair Fern. These rocks are known throughout # Lower Yangtsze Valley as “Ichang Fern-stones,” and mand a ready sale. n the glen Parthenocissus Henryana is abundant ; in the nile stage the leaves of this plant have prominent white s, and are very attractive, but in the adult stage this ation is lost, and they become very ordinary by com- he glen soon became impassable, and we climbed the and ultimately overlooked the country generally. aced fields are much in evidence, and every available of country is under cultivation. Wheat, barley, and peas, ipe, were the principal crops, and their yellow culms en- ed the landscape. We saw a small patch or two of the mum Poppy hidden away under trees and of very poor ality. Pear and Plum trees are commonly cultivated eabouts, Bamboo groves and Cypress trees abound. Here th ig = tet 30 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA and there we caught an occasional glimpse of the white-taile Paradise Fly-catcher (Tchitrea incei). Pheasants were callin and likewise the English Cuckoo, Around Niu Ping (Cow-flat), which was our destinati for the day, much rice is cultivated, and the farmers we busy transplanting the tiny rice-plants. The whole count is finely terraced and is backed by limestone cliffs of Cambria Ordovician Age. Near our destination we passed a fine Gink tree showing curious root-like protuberances on the branch In rocky places by the wayside, and especially in the walls the terraced fields, Rehmannia angulata abounds. Plants to 2 feet high carry six to a dozen large, rosy-pink, foxgloy like flowers. The local name is “ Féng-tang Hwa’’ (Hone bee Flower). 3 “ Cow-flat” is a tiny place of about a dozen houses. © quarters were cramped but comfortable, and the people ve nice. There is a road from this hamlet to Nanto, disté 30 li. When I first visited this place in 1g0r I was an obj of great curiosity from the moment of my arrival to the ti of departure. I have been here several times since and ; now treated as an old-time acquaintance. A It was quite cool during the night, and a blanket required. At Ichang the very thought of a blanket 1 enough to bring forth perspiration! We left about 6a.m., é after ascending and descending a series of lateral spurs fine reached the small river which enters the Yangtsze at Nar After ascending this river for a few miles we commences steep ascent. Now by an easy and then by a heavy grade road winds in and out among the mountains, and we did» reach our halting-place for the night until 6.30 p.m. coolie arrived an hour later. The length of the whole jour, is supposed to be only 60 li, but we all agreed that it is a good Whatever the distance, it is certainly a hard day’s travel. _ The mountain sides are very steep, with razor-like rid, Terraced cultivation is everywhere carried out, rice is | tivated in the bottom-lands and maize on the slopes, v occasional patches of Irish potato. Where it is too st for other reasons unsuitable for cultivation, the mountai are covered with shrubs and trees, chiefly scrub Oak HIGHWAY LEAD THROUGH a NATURAL TUNNEL IN QUEST OF FLOWERS 31 n Pine. Small trees of Cornus Wilsoniana in full flower e common here and there. Odd trees of C. kousa, also, in ne , were conspicuous in the outskirts of the woods and >< This small tree is exceedingly floriferous. In habit it at-topped with horizontally-spreading branches, and the ers borne erect, well above the foliage. The white bracts, are so conspicuous, frequently exceed 5 inches in ster ; with age they become tinged with pink. The fruit is , orange-red, and edible. This Chinese form will probably ye a better plant under cultivation than the Japanese form 1 which gardeners are familiar. The plant loves a sunny, -drained situation. But the display of the day was made the wild Roses. By the side of streams the Rambler Rose sa multiflora), with both white and pink flowers, was abund- . In the woods higher up the Musk Rose (R. moschata) the air with its soft fragrance. Here and there occurred midia chinensis, scaling tall trees and wreathing them | white and buff-yellow fragrant flowers. In the forenoon d Rehmannia angulata, especially common on steep stony in full sun. Dur halting-place, Lao-mu-chia, is about 3500 feet altitude, sists of about six houses and a tile-factory. Hereabouts ich charcoal is burnt for export to Nanto and down river. ing the day’s journey we met several men laden with bales Pear and Crab-apple leaves. These leaves are commonly _as a substitute for tea, and there is a considerable export | these parts to Shasi. in leaving Lao-mu-chia we immediately commenced the ascent of the Hsan-lung shan, and a climb of 1000 feet gt cake eager where there is a small temple ina s condition. After a precipitous descent of a few Ired feet the road meanders over and among the tops of composed of granitic-gneiss, which is rapidly disintegrat- and ultimately descends to the bed of a torrent and joins ain road from Ichang to Hsingshan Hsien. the summit of Hsan-lung shan, which is composed brian-Ordovician limestones, the Chinese Tulip tree chinense) is common in the woods, and so is tomentosum with its sprays of snow-white flowers. 32 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA Styrax Hemsleyanum and Amelanchier asiatica, var. sinica,| June berry, are other trees with white flowers remarkable’ their beauty and abundance of blossom. On the more 7 slopes Symplocos crategoides, Lonicera Maackii, var. Diervilla japonica, and Crategus cuneata made a fine Thin woods of Pinus Massoniana and Sweet Chestnut (Castan also occur ; the Pine trunks are gashed for the ultimate purp of producing kindling wood. In open places Rubus folius abounds, and its red, raspberry-like fruits with delicious vinous flavour were good eating. In the dese Dipteronia sinensis, a small bushy tree with erect small white flowers, occurs, and Actinidia chinensis is The hermaphrodite and male forms of this climber have white flowers quickly changing to buff-yellow, and the f : is verypleasing. A form with purely female flowers isunkno At the foot of the descent we joined the main road from Ichz to Hsingshan Hsien, and following this route we reac Shui-yueh-tsze, a village of roo houses, situated in a tiny1 flat, at five o’clock. The people were very inquisitive, held an impromptu reception until bedtime. On joining the main road, we saw evidences of the sur for the Hankow-Szechuan Railway. The proposed route marked by bamboo poles, and on the rocks with Ara numerals and initials in Roman letters.. The route desce a stream, just before reaching Shui-yueh-tsze, to Liang- kou, and then continues down the Hsingshan River to Yangtsze, which it connects with at Hsiang-che. Its o struction even in this region promises to be a difficult t and will call for great ability on the part of the engine Much tunnelling and blasting will be necessary, yet f Hankow to this point the task is simple compared with which lies beyond. The cost will be enormous even i land of cheap labour. It is highly improbable that the gen who are so violently opposed to the employment of for capital in this venture, realize the magnitude of the ta: its ultimate cost. The next day’s journey proved interesting but ardt By an undulating path we reached the top of the ridge, wh known as T’an-shu-ya (Lime tree Pass), from a gigantic Liz IN QUEST OF FLOWERS 33 ch occurs there. This tree (Tilia Henryana) is about 80 st tall and 27 feet in girth, and though hollow appears to be in d health. The young leaves are silvery, and the tree, from size, is a conspicuous object for miles around. _ Descending through a cultivated area we entered a glen rich we followed for 20 li: the scenery in the lower end aagnificent. Cliffs of hard limestone rear themselves almost rT ndicularly some 2000 feet and more. In the upper part ‘the glen Pterocarya hupehensis is common alongside the mn. An odd tree or two of the rare Pteroceltis Tatarinowit © occurs here. Throughout the glen Lady Banks’s rose osa Banksia) is especially abundant. Bushes ro to 20 feet rh and more through them were one mass of fragrant white ers. It occurs in thousands and is particularly happy, ywing on rocks and over boulders by the side of streams. binia sepiaria, with erect thyrsoid panicles of fragrant ow flowers, is also abundant hereabouts.. Growing on the , Iilicium Henryi, with its dull crimson flowers, is also hy of note. On issuing from the glen we struck a shallow, ock-strewn stream of considerable width, and after ascending tfor a short distance made a very precipitous ascent of a iouple of thousand feet. Crossing over a ridge and a flat area, descending road led to Shih-tsao-che, which we reached as at was closing in. This hamlet consists of about a dozen juses scattered through a narrow valley. During the day I collected specimens of thirty different dis of woody plants. The striking plants of the afternoon’s ney were the Amelanchier and Difelta floribunda, both es of flower. Walnut (Juglans regia) and Varnish trees abundant above 3000 feet; the sides and tops of the intains are clothed with woods of Oak and Pine, particu- the former. We also saw many fine Willow and Ailan- trees. Primula obconica, Lysimachia crispidens, and a e-flowered Salvia are abundant up to 2000 feet. Near he inn a few trees of Catalpa Fargesii occur, but were not yet 1 flower. Hereabouts Daphne genkwa is abundant, but it ‘scarcely in flower at this altitude. it rained a little in the early morning and showers fell at atervals during the day, nevertheless, the weather was good — VOL. 1.—3 34 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA for travelling, since it was not too hot. Most of the jc mm was downhill. Soon after starting in the morning we cross one or two low ridges, intercepted by narrow plateaux, ai about noon commenced the descent to Hsingshan Hsien. 1 descent is precipitous in parts, but the mountain-sides ¢ mostly under cultivation. About half-way down coal mined, but the quality appears to be indifferent. Lime burnt in small quantities and paper-mills occur near shan. Hsingshan, the only district city in these wilds, may i be one of the smallest and poorest Hsiens (i.c. cities of the fc class) in the whole of China. It is situated on the left bank o stream and contains scarcely a hundred houses, most of wh are in a ruinous state. The wall facing the river varies fr 4 to 12 feet in height. A road, apparently the main road, r along the top of this wall. The east gate is closed by sewa the north gate is so low that one has to bend the head w passing through ! The whole town is dull and lifeless, as fa business is concerned, but children are plentiful, as they everywhere else in China. The town is backed by a st mountain, up two sides of which a wall is carried : nc the mountain-side enclosed within the wall is given over terraced fields. The river is broad, with a shingly bottom, the water clear andlimpid. Thick-bottomed boats ply betw Hsiang-t’an and Hsiang-che, a village at the head of - Mitan Gorge, on the Yangtsze. No one stays in Hsing and we journeyed on to Hsiang-t’an. This name sig “ fragrant rapid”: the waters may perhaps be sweet, but village is foul and stinking. We had some little difficult securing lodgings, poor as they were, and an objectionable ec had to be evicted before we could settle down for the nig Flowers were not common during the day. We pai a magnificent tree of Keteleeria Davidiana, 80 feet tall am feet in girth. This tree shelters some graves, and was prob planted long ago. In the descent we passed through orch of Crategus hupehensis, all in full flower. This Hawthe one of several kinds cultivated in China for their edible fi The interesting Torricellia angulata occurs sparingly, and and there large plants of Mucuna sempervirens cover IN QUEST OF FLOWERS 35 es. Catalpa ovata is common on the plateaux and an interesting small-leaved Poplar occurs around farmhouses, but ‘Hsiang-t’ an being in water communication with the Yang- re boasts quite a considerable trade. Medicines are the ” ipal export. Rifle-stocks, roughly shaped out of Walnut od, are exported from this neighbourhood to Hangyang ; ncreasing quantities annually. They are worth locally 300 sh (about 6d.) each. The village is situated on the left bank the river, and possesses an Opium Likin and a Viceroy’s ak. Pigs seem more in evidence than human beings, as ged from the four visits I have paid the place in different . Being only 300 feet above Ichang, Hsiang-t’an enjoys ary climate. ving Hsiang-t’'an we immediately crossed the river by Far cahek & eddced talieeyahiieli ‘pooh enemas’ & fine and finally a wild, entrancing gorge. At the head of s gorge we took a small mountain-path which entailed a ere climb from the river-bed to the tops of the surrounding untains. In this ascent the Musk Rose was a wonderful it, and Loropetalum chinense abundant but out of flower. ce on top of the mountains an undulating path leads to Peh- “gone where we found lodgings in a new and fairly clean Ir ic sicko I gathered Rebnanide Henryi, a herb less than tall, with large, white, foxglove-like flowers. Here- its the root-bark of Lady Banks’s rose is collected, and x being dried is pressed into bales for export to Shasi. s bark is used for dyeing and strengthening fish-nets, and it aimed that it renders the net invisible to fish. In the y Kelreuteria bipinnata occurs, but is rare; the flora of ravine generally is similar to that of the San-yu-tung glen. fhe mountains are clad with Oak (largely scrub), Pinus sontana, and Cypress. A few Keteleeria trees occur and quidambar formosana. Populus Silvestrit, with its light bark, is a very common tree hereabouts. Wood Oil trees -a wonderful sight and most abundant. In the ravine were in full leaf, and the fruits were swelling, but from 1500 to 3000 feet they were leafless and covered with flowers. | 36 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA . By the side of streams at low altitudes the Rambler Ro (Rosa multiflora) was a pretty sight with its white and pin blossoms, but the Musk Rose (R. moschata) was the flower of tl day—bushes 6 to 20 feet tall and more in diameter, nothit but clusters of white fragrant flowers. Growing on some ° graves I found a sulphur-yellow flowered form of Rosa Ban sie; this, I think, must have been planted. Rose bushes are special feature in this region and numerically are the comme est of shrubs. Around our lodgings the Hardy Rubber tr (Eucommia ulmoides) is cultivated for its bark, which valued as a tonic medicine. Peh-yang-tsai is a scattered hamlet, situated in a narre valley, some 2500 feet altitude. Facing our lodgings is massive peak called Wan-tiao shan, its face a sheer precipi of hard limestone, the summit and farther slopes apparent well forested. The people of this hamlet, like the count people everywhere in these parts, were extremely nice a obliging, and it was a real pleasure to be amongst them. Wan-tiao shan looked too tempting to be passed by withe investigation, so we spent a day, and a very hard day t in making its ascent and descent. Leaving our lodgings 8 a.m., several hours were occupied in rounding the spurs a surmounting the cultivated and scrub-clad land which subte the mountain proper. At 6000 feet we reached Bamt scrub, and a path through this led to an area where medicii Rhubarb was cultivated, and where the drug “ Tang-shét was extraordinarily abundant. At 6500 feet we entered 1 timber. At the margin of the woods, to the left of the TO; are extensive plantations of the drug “ Huang-lien.” T interesting plant (Coptis chinensis) is grown under a frar work of brushwood reared some 3 to 4 feet above the grou! The drug is used as a tonic and blood-purifier. i As the path winds the trees are at first small, with ple : of Bamboo scrub, but this belt is very narrow and gives place to large trees which extend to within 500 feet of Everywhere above 5000 feet, where the woods are thin sunlight penetrates freely, Bamboo scrub is found, rende travel excessively arduous and, unless a path is cut, “La 00'S "NVHS OVILL;-NVM IN QUEST OF FLOWERS 37 yssible. In the dense shade of the forest the Bamboo does thrive. _ The forest, though full of splendid timber, is not rich in iety. The Chinese Beech (Fagus sinenis) is the commonest ec. This species always has many trunks, and trees 60 to 70 feet high, with stems 3 to 6 feet in girth, abound. The interesting Tctracentron sinense is very abundant ;_ trees 60 to feet by 8 to ro feet girth are plentiful. The leafage of this is very thin and characteristic. Large trees of White h and of several species of Maple occur scattered through > forest. The smooth-leaved Davidia (D. involucrata, var. ilmoriniana) occurs sparingly, and good-sized trees of various he: ies, Bird Cherries, Mountain Ash, and Wild Pear are mmon. Rambling over the tops of the largest trees is Berchemia Giraldiana. Several species of Rhododendron cur ; one species (R. sutchuenense) forms a tree 30 feet and 2 tall and 5 feet in girth. Shrubs in variety abound ; in Belades Viburnum tomentosum was wreathed in snow-white Owers. In more open places the Musk Rose is rampant, d near the summit Rosa sericea is abundant. ptte summit forms a sloping, undulating flat, about an ere in extent, covered with grass and a few shrubs. On the pex stands a small temple now partly in ruins. A sharp, ocky ridge extends from the summit, linking the mountain p with the ranges to the northward. The face on two sides a vertical precipice, 2000 feet and more sheer. From the ummit (alt. 7850 feet) we got an extensive view of the sur- Ounding country. Nothing but mountains on every side ; 9 the north and north-west these are heaped one beyond ther in quick succession and are separated by narrow ies down which torrents rush and roar. Very difficult looked country in front of us, but the call of the unknown was trong. We descended by the same devious path, indeed, there sno other, and reached our lodgings as darkness overtook us. pecimens of some forty odd different plants rewarded the ay s labour, several of them new and uncommonly interesting. ‘m the extreme summit Box is a common shrub, and growing mith it I discovered a new species of Lilac (Syringa verrucosa). _ The following day we continued our journey northwards. 38 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA Just beyond Peh-yang-tsai we passed through a small Oak (Quercus variabilis), where the Jew’s ear F cultivated. The culture is as follows: Oak saplings, abot 6 inches thick, are cut down, trimmed of their branches, ar cut into staves 8 to 10 feet long. These are allowed to lie « the ground for several months, where they become infested wi the mycelium of the fungus. They are then stacked slanting in scores or thereabouts, and the fructifications of the fung develop. These are ear-shaped and gelatinous and are by tl Chinese esteemed a delicacy. I tried them, but did not fi them very palatable, and the experiment resulted in a ¥ stomach-ache ! On leaving these plantations the road descends to a ol along which it meanders for a mile or two. Many shrubs we in flower in the ravine, and I gathered amongst other thin specimens of a new genus, allied to Holbcellia, with fragra yellow flowers. (I subsequently secured seeds of this plat since named Sargentodoxa cuneata, and succeeded in inti ducing it into cultivation.) At the head of this ravine steep ascent through woods of Oak and Birch leads to cultivated area where there are two or three scattered hou: and many Tea bushes. Near one house the Chinese Cof tree (Gymnocladus chinensis) occurs; the pods of this tree < saponaceous and are esteemed for laundry purposes. ; From the Tea plantations the road leads through P woods, now by an easy, now by a heavy grade, but alwz ascending, and we were all glad when our destination (Hs tientsze) was reached. Near this place are some fine old woo rich in a variety of deciduous trees and shrubs. I Horse Chestnut (Zsculus Wilsonii), two kinds of Styrax Hemsleyanum, Meliosma Veitchiorum, the Davidia, many different kinds of Maple and Oak—all of them Ia trees. In the margins of the woods Viburnum ichangense ‘ particularly fine, and many Cherry trees, with both pink white flowers, common. In moist shady places in the we a blue Primrose (P. ovalifolia) carpets the ground for m The yellow-flowered Stylophorum japonicum, an Epimed® and various species of Corydalis are abundant in and near woods. IN QUEST OF FLOWERS 39 - ‘The hamlet of Hsin-tientsze, alt. 5600 feet, consists of one i ather large house. It is built on a slope a few hundred feet elow the summit of the ridge, and from the front of the house a ebederful view of the surrounding country is afforded. Nothing but mountains as far as the eye can range, and ‘not 20 square yards of level ground in sight! Our quarters, ‘though cramped, were, all things considered, fairly comfortable, and were as good as could be expected in these wilds. _ The next morning we made an early start in order to cover ne 60 li between Hsin-tientsze and Mao-fu-lien. Immediately mn leaving we traversed an old wood especially rich in species of Maple. Davidia and Beech are also common, whilst the interesting Cornus sinensis occurs sparingly as a thin tree 60 feet tall. Pinus Armandi is present, but Conifers generally are very scarce in this particular locality. _ We meandered around the mountain-sides, by a tortuous ascending path, until we reached a gap in the ridge and crossing Over made a breakneck descent of a couple of thousand feet. A new kind of Poplar, having the young foliage bronzy-red, was common on all sides, and in the descent I gathered Primula wiolodora, Rhododendron Augustinii, Acer griseum, and a pink- flowered Staphylea, the last two both small trees. The most interesting find, however, was anew Hydrangea (H. Sargentiana), @ shrub 5 to 6 feet tall, with stems densely felted with short istly hairs and large, dark green leaves with a velvety lustre— in foliage alone this species is strikingly handsome. , At the foot of the descent we came upon small woods of inus Henryi, a tree averaging 60 feet in height, more or less yramidal in shape, with bark usually rough and black, but ometimes red in the upper parts. The cones vary considerably 1 size and are retained on the tree for several years. In the alley near the Pine woods there is considerable cultivation. Valnut trees are common and Cunninghamia abounds. _ Leaving this valley, a long but fairly easy ascent led to the p of another ridge, and a precipitous descent brought us to mother narrow valley. These ascents and descents were most fatiguing and occurred with exasperating frequency every day, SC aeverel times a day at that. Another climb of over 2000 feet and we reached our destination for the day, finding 40 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA accommodation in an inn which is also a large medicine and is owned by a wealthy man from the province of Ki This inn is a large, rambling two-storied structure with outhouses and a large courtyard. There is not sufficient leve space to accommodate the whole place, and the front part i supported on posts. It serves as general store for the whol country-side, and in addition is a veritable museum. Dirt it every shape and form draped everything, and the stink fron adjacent piggeries was tempered with the odour of variou aromatic herbs. The business instinct of the house is strong, a I found to my cost when changing some silver and buying a goat The rites of ancestor-worship were strictly carried out morning and evening, and everything done to ensure i and increasing prosperity. The burning of incense and and the performance of mystical genuflexions may business, but a little more attention to cleanliness and would make a stronger appeal to the foreigner. At least, were my conclusions after a thirty-six hours’ stay in the place. It rained a good part of the next day, but as we had upon a day’s rest it did not inconvenience us. In the forenoo I went out for a few hours to investigate the woods aroun Mao-fu-lien. Some very large trees of Sassafras (S. tzumu occur here—the largest specimen is nearly 100 feet tall and 1 feet girth. The Chinese Sassafras has no medicinal value, an the wood is used for box-making and fuel only. Oak Sweet Chestnut are plentiful and form small woods. Chestnut (Castanea Vilmoriniana) is a singular species, i a single ovoid nut inside the spiny fruit ; the flowers week iooal peculiarly unpleasant smell. Around the inn are cultivate many trees of the Hardy Rubber and also Magnolia officinah Walnut and Varnish trees are abundant, and behind the is a fine flat-leaved Spruce (Picea pachyclada). The tops are clothed with Grass, Brambles, scrub Oak, of the pink-flowered Rhododendron Maries, and the R. indicum. The view from the inn is one of steep ridges and mountains, separated by deep, narrow chasms as far as tf eye canrange. It is indeed a fascinating country, but exhau ing to travel over. SE —— IN SAN-YU-TUNG GLEN, CUPRESSUS FUNEBRIS IN FOREGROUND IN QUEST OF FLOWERS 41 __ A fine morning followed yesterday’s rain, the country looked e f eshed, and the air was laden with fragrance from the myriad flowers on every side. The coolies grumbled loudly over the extortionate charges at the inn, and several hours elapsed before recovered their cheerfulness. The day’s journey com- menced in a steady ascent to the top of a ridge followed by the sual precipitous descent. Hereabouts Staphylea holocarpa, a . , very floriferous tree, with both white and pink flowers, is very common and most strikingly beautiful. Another in- teresting plant is Salix Fargesii, a dwarf-growing Willow, hhaving large very dark green leaves. A small torrent marks the foot of the descent, and from this point on we occupied several hours in an exhausting climb to the summit of another fidge, finally crossing over at 7300 feet altitude. In the ascent a new Spruce, having short square leaves and small cones, was overed, and many small trees of Hemlock Spruce were ed. Near the head of the ridge, on cliffs, Box (Buxus q icrophylla) is very common, and a rosy-red flowered Primrose is abundant in grassy places. A dwarf Bamboo forms dense thickets on the top of the wind-swept ridge. __ The descent quickly leads into copses of Birch, and later into fine woods composed of mixed deciduous trees and shrubs and a few conifers. In these woods we spent a profitable time, collecting in all specimens of some fifty different kinds of woody plants. We saw one or two large trees of Davidia and many : Tetracentron. Cherries in variety are plentiful, and were a ae sight—nothing but masses of pink and white. Three ids of Rhododendron were collected, and six in all noted. Me les in variety are very common, but one large tree of Acer wiseum, with its chestnut-red bark, exfoliating like that of the ver Birch, was the gem of all. Various Pomacee and one or C gen of Lauracee make up a fair percentage of the small - Viburnumsin variety, Honeysuckles, Diervillas, Deutzias, adelphus, and Nei/lia sinensis are everywhere abundant. Bi rocky, more open places Viburnum rhytidophyllum with its g, thick wrinkled leaves looked particularly happy, and ces exposed to the sun a Crab Apple (Malus sp.) with nk Daoners was a sight for the gods. On wet, humus-clad ‘s Pleione Henryi luxuriates, and herbs in endless variety 42 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA crowd every available spot. A fine torrent collects up th waters of countless smaller streams, and falls down the narro ravine, often in a series of waterfalls hundreds of feet high, tl noise of the falling water alone breaking the silence of the fore: depths. With some difficulty, owing to the timidity of the peopl we obtained lodgings in a peasant’s hut at Wén-tsao, al 6150 feet. This tiny hamlet consists of four small house scattered and pitched on the steep mountain-slope. It. surrounded on all sides by precipitous mountains covered wit forests. Around the houses small patches have been cleare and wheat, a little maize, and a few peas and vegeatieas cultivated. The forests of this region are particularly rich, asd taal to better appreciate them I propose to interpolate here ot from my journal of another date :— ““ May 30.—Wén-tsao. On a precipitous slope facing ¢ lodgings a score or more Davidia trees occur; they are 6 mass of white, and are most conspicuous as the shades night close in. Two large trees of Pterostyrax hispidus growing amongst these Davidias, and are laden with lous chains of creamy-white flowers.” “ May 31.—Go over and investigate the Davidia t and the forests generally. Crossing a narrow neck a cutter’s circuitous path leads us down to a narrow del through a fine shady wood. Ascending a precipice with di culty, we soon reach the Davidia trees. There are over score of them growing on a steep, rocky declivity ; they v: from 35 to 60 feet in height, and the largest is 6 feet in gir Being in a dense wood they are bare of branches for half th height, but their presence is readily detected by the numer white bracts which have fallen and lie strewn over the grou The tree starts up from below when felled ; indeed, it natura throws up small stems after it gets old. The bark is di and scales off in small, irregular flakes. By climbing a la Tetracentron tree growing on the edge of a cliff, and chopp off some branches to make a clear space, I manage to t some snapshots of the upper part of the Davidia tree in flower. A difficult task and highly dangerous. Three of IN QUEST OF FLOWERS 43 climb the tree to different heights and haul up axe and camera from one to another by means of arope. The wood of Tetracen- tron is brittle, and the knowledge of this does not add to one’s peace of mind when sitting astride a branch about 4 inches ick with a sheer drop of a couple of hundred feet beneath. He er, all went well, and we drank in the beauties of this extraordinary tree. The distinctive beauty of Davidia is in the two snow-white connate bracts which subtend the flower proper. These are always unequal in size, the larger usually ‘inches long by 3 inches broad, and the smaller 34 inches y 24 inches; they range up to 8 inches by 4 inches and inches by 3 inches. At first greenish, they become pure white the flowers mature and change to brown with age. The vers and their attendant bracts are pendulous on fairly mg stalks, and when stirred by the slightest breeze they semble huge Butterflies hovering amongst the trees. The bracts are somewhat boat-shaped and flimsy in texture, and the aves oiten hide them considerably, but so freely are they one that the tree looks, from a short distance, as if flecked ‘with snow. On dull days and in the early morning and €vening the bracts are most conspicuous. The fruit super- ficially resembles a small walnut, but the inner shell is abso- ely unbreakable. To my mind Davidia involucrata is at ce the most interesting and beautiful of all trees of the h-temperate flora. “With the Davidia is a good-sized tree of the Horse estnut (50 feet in height by 4 feet in girth). Higher up ornbeam and Tetracentron are common, and Birch, white, d, and black, luxuriate. _ “ Maples are a feature of these woods ; all are tall trees, but > great thickness. Unfortunately very few are flowering, indeed this is true of the forest trees generally this year. _“ Perhaps the commonest tree in these forests is the Beech ; 4 is being formed entirely of these trees. So light-demanding 2 they that they suffer no competitors or even undergrowth. or the first time it is possible for me to say definitely that ‘0 distinct species of Beech exist in this region. One forms tree with a single trunk, the other always has several trunks. 7 e former species has glabrous, shining green leaves, a large, 44 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA dense, much-branched head; it makes a tree 40 to 50 fee high with a trunk 5 to 10 feet in girth, and, save for its smalle stature, very strongly resembles the European Beech. Th second species, which is the recognized Chinese Beech, grow much taller, but never attains the girth of the other. T generally has six to twelve trunks, averaging 2 to 5 feet in girth arising closely together and slanting away from one anothe as they grow. The bark is light grey and the leaves sub glaucous and hairy below; branches somewhat but with the young branchlets slender and pendulous, local name for the Beech is ‘ Peh Litzu.’ Small a ar common, but no flowers are to be discovered.* “In the shade of trees, Ribes longeracemosum, var. Wilsoné a remarkable black currant, with racemes 1 to 1} feet long, common, whilst Rodgersia esculifolia, with large, erect, thyrsou panicles of white flowers, is rampant. “ Five species of Oak—three deciduous and two everg occur. Meliosma Veitchiorum and many species of Pe and Cherries are common, whilst the Varnish tree is where abundant. In dense shade various evergreen Bz occur,and in open country Neillia sinensis forms dense “ Of Conifers, Pinus Armandi and P. Henryi are scattere over the cliffs; Picea Wilsomi and a flat-leaved Spruce pachyclada) are rare, whilst the Hemlock Spruce? is fz common on the cliffs—neat, dense trees of no great size their young leaves just unfolding and old cones n The White Pine (P. Armandi) is more common higher up « the mountains ; with its long needles, graceful port, and ligh grey bark this tree is strikingly handsome; the cones af pendulous, borne at the ends of the glabrous branches. very resinous wood is used locally for torches, burning clear, bright flame, and gives a good light.” | 1In roro I succeeded in introducing young plants of both species in the Arnold Arboretum from this region. 2 Tsuga chinensis. Bie i nin a le =e CHAPTER V FOREST AND CRAG Across THE HUPEH-SZECHUAN FRONTIER N leaving Wén-tsao a sharp descent for a couple of >? hours brought us to the upper waters of the Hsingshan i River, which we left several days ago. Crossing this ‘eam by a covered bridge we reached the hamlet of Li-erh-kou. ound this hamlet trees of the Hardy Rubber (Eucommia) and agnolia officinalis (Hou-p’o) are cultivated for their bark. A ady ascent from Li-erh-kou through occasional woods of Oak d Birch, interrupted by areas where people were busy plough- x the fields andsowing maize, brought us to the hamlet of Chin- n-po, wherewe lunched. Nearthis place is a fine new Meliosma 1. Beaniana), a tree 60 feet high. It was leafless, but one mass creamy-white flowers borne in pendulous panicles. Near by ‘is tree I discovered one small specimen of the ‘‘ Judas tree ”’ is racemosa). Prior to this discovery I knew of only two Tees some fifteen days’ journey south-west of Ichang. This new e was about 25 feet high, with a stem half decayed through the base, and a mop-like head. In spite of its partial decay 2 tree appeared in vigorous health, and was one mass of very-rose coloured flowers, borne in short racemes. The ves of this species are hairy below. Varnish and Walnut es occur in abundance, and we met several coolies laden h cakes of fat, expressed from the fruits of the Varnish e (Rhus verniciflua). The double-flowered form of Spirea intfolia is commonly planted on graves, and the bushes were wreathed in flowers. | Soon after leaving Chin-tien-po we commenced a precipitous ascent, and after climbing for several miles reached the neck of aridge where Viburnum rhytidophyllum luxuriates. From this 45 i ; ‘n : * i : 46 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA neck the ascent is more gradual, and but few crops are gre as it is nearing the limits of cultivation in these regions. N some limestone cliffs are two magnificent trees of ckiz each 60 feet tall and 7 feet in girth. The bark of this t smooth, of a light grey colour, and the unfolding leaves silvery grey. Here, too, are many small trees of the E tree (Staphylea holocarpa) and Peach bushes. These were in fy flower, and flitting amongst the flowers. and in 1 honey were many beautiful little sun-birds (4thopyga y Rhododendron indicum was left behind at 5500 feet altitude. A few hundred yards beyond the limestone cliffs we ere over at 7000 feet altitude, into Fang Hsien, and tray narrow moorland valley clothed with grass and t rounded hills covered with thickets. In this moorland area of Astilbe Davidii and A. grandis, with several Senecios ; other ornamental herbs. The thickets are Birch and Willow, with a few Poplar and Silver Fir, id occasional flat-leaved Spruce. The vegetation was scarcely leaf, and it was evident from the appearance of the ground t snow had only just melted away. We flushed a Solitary and secured a cock pheasant for the larder, but + life of any sort was visible in these uplands. At the this moorland valley we entered a narrow defile and, ai skirting the side of a mountain through thickets in w various Maples and Currants were prominent, reached Hu shih-kou. This is a miserable hut of wood in a half-ruinc condition, kept by a family clothed in rags. It is situat at an altitude of 6300 feet, by the side of a considerable -— and is walled in by precipitous, well-wooded mountains. — At night some of the coolies slept in a loft above the rc occupied, and every movement they made caused dust a to fall over my bed. On waking in the morning Tiaaeal y covered with this filth, and nearly choked with the dust i the bargain. The owner of this hovel is 4 hunter, and I shot the Serow of this region, which is known as “ Mir 4 Yang.” He hadacouple of pairs of horns and a flat skin wh we secured, and, judging from this fragmentary material, 1 beast must be larger than any known species of Serow. — 1907 my associate, Mr. Zappey, made several trips after t ae ~ 4 ss ~ al <7) Ai 3 N Zz sa) Z Y a = "4 ou yn ~ — ay THE CHINESE PRIV FOREST AND CRAG 47 , but to no purpose, though he secured a tantalizing slimpse of just one specimen.) _ The name Hung-shih-kou signifies ‘‘ Red stone mouth,” and is reference to the outcropping of red sandstone which occurs ere and extends to Hsao-lung-tang, 20 li distant, which we ade our halting-place for the next day. Though we had only 0 li to cover we started early, glad to escape from the miserable dgings into the woods again. Ascending a stream, through rushwood thickets composed of Willow, Birch, Spirza, and oses, we twice crossed the stream by rotten bridges of roughly ewn tree-logs before reaching our destination. On the way ° passed several fine trees of Picea Wilsonit, beneath which old ves nestle. The largest trees are about 70 feet tall and } feet in girth ; the leaves bright green, and the habit distinctly itately ; the cones are borne in large clusters, and many still mained on the trees. Here also are small trees of the White ae (Pinus Armand) with cones 9 inches long. A new Poplar s discovered in flower, and Veitch’s Viburnum and Spirea e common with their young leaves just unfolding. “The handsomest tree in these parts is, however, the Chinese m of Betula utilis, a Birch with orange-red bark, which on foliating exposes the glaucous waxy bloom of the layer below. fees 40 feet high are still pyramidal in habit, much branched, vith slender, ascending branches on which the lenticels are very oa ent. The older trees, as seen on the tops of the moun- ains, are mop-headed, 60 to 8o feet tall, with a clean trunk for j feet more, and are still strikingly handsome though blown nd battered by the wind. The hamlet of Hsao-lung-tang (Small Dragon-pool), alt. 90 feet, consists of two dilapidated wooden huts pitched on osite sides of a lovely burn, which flows through a narrow ping valley lying almost due east and west. This valley is iked by steep ridges clad only with grass and scrub. Odd ‘atches of Birch and Silver Fir attest to forests which have all yeen destroyed by fire. From the numerous old graves and bandoned fields it is evident that formerly more people dwelt M this valley than do so to-day. Tiny patches of cabbage d Irish potato occur around the huts; and also plantations f Tang-kuei (Angelica polymorpha, var. sinensis), a valued ie Si } ; ; rs ‘ 4 48 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA ; Chinese medicine. eee ee wheat or barley ! On the occasion of my first visit to this place in rgor, I to retrace my steps owing to dearth of supplies. Since t date no white man had visited this region. In the direction | which we were bound these are the last inhabited homed over a hundred li, I took a photograph of the hostel on my arrival, but wh I should have liked to photograph was the interior. This wi impossible, since, even at midday, a light was necessary to st into the farthest corners. Dirt and filth in many fe abounded, and although plenty of timber is to be had for t felling, the house, through the idleness of its keeper, has bet allowed to fall into a most ruinous state. Of one low stor the house is bisected into four compartments, and is provic with no outlet for the smoke or for the ingress of light, through the doorway and holes in the roof ; the floor, of cour is mother earth. Pigs were quartered in one section, into wh our arrival also forced the owners. Cows and goats occupi a hovel 6 feet from the door, the floor of which was fu ly foot deep in filth. Luckily, the weather continued gloriou fine, and the miserable surroundings were less evident in cc sequence. (In passing, I might record the fact that this the only occasion on which I enjoyed fine weather in this p Twice previously I had been marooned here for days, and eit! stayed in bed or shivered by the doorway watching the rain. Bee-keeping is one of the principal industries of the peasai in these wilds, and around this hostel are scores of hives. The hives are hollowed-out logs of Silver Fir, ak 3 feet 6 inches long by 1 foot wide, two pieces of wood are fix crosswise in the centre, and opposite these three or four ho are bored to allow the bees ingress and egress. Rude bo often take the place of these logs. The beeswax is not sep ated from the honey, the honeycomb being eaten as remo from the hives. Though the climate is rigorous, the bees | healthy and strong, and disease is unknown among them. — The morning following our arrival we ascended the § mu-jen range behind our lodgings. The first 500 feet » steep going, but afterwards the climb was easy. At FOREST AND CRAG 49 feet woods of Silver Fir occur. The trees at first are of great size, but their dimensions increased as we ascended. t of the larger trees have been felled and converted into ffins ; the remains of thousands of them are scattered every- ere around. On the decayed trunks of many of these trees rge bushes of Rhododendron are growing, thereby proving iat the trees have lain there these many years past. Some the prostrate trunks measured over 150 feet in length and 6 et in diameter. None of this size is now standing, but plenty at are over roo feet tall occur. The upper part of the ge is a cliff some 200 feet high, under the lee of which Birch ad Maple are common and wild Rhubarb is also found. We scovered a more or less easy path up the cliff, and crossed over : 9700 feet altitude. The highest peak in this range is prob- aly a couple of hundred feet higher. The summit is of hard estone with rare outcroppings of red sandstone. Stunted nd-swept Silver Fir and various kinds of Currant extend to iesummit. Rhododendron and a dwarf Juniper (J.squamata) te also common. The descent was through woods of Birch d Bamboo to an open, grassy, scrub-clad, sloping moorland, ough which a considerable torrent flows. The Bamboo, so amon hereabouts, is very beautiful, forming clumps 3 to ro et through. The culms are 5 to 12 feet tall, golden yellow, ith dark, feathery foliage; the young culms have broad Nz thing bracts protecting the branchlets. Taken all in all, is the handsomest Bamboo I have seen.* Hin the vicinity of the stream shrubs in great variety pound ; of these the Willows, Roses, Spireas, Philadelphus, drangeas, odd bushes of Rhododendron Fargesti, and clumps Aralia chinensis are the principal features. The Rhododen- on referred to is one of the most beautiful, with compact ses of white or, more commonly, rosy-red (occasionally p red) flowers ; the leaves are small, displaying the trusses flowers to great advantage. This species is usually a bush ro 8 feet tall, and of about the same dimensions through the ad; more rarely it is 15 to 20 feet tall. The steep grassy »pes are almost devoid of trees; the fine pasture land id the typical moorland character of this narrow valley ¥ 1 In ro1o I successfully introduced it into cultivation. VOL. I.—4 a ee e q % i 50 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA constitute a region that is very different from central China. In the afternoon we visited Ta-lung-tang (Large D pool), a deep, silent pond about a stone's throw across, nea circular in outline with reedy margins, walled in by grassy mountain slopes. In short, in situation and appear the very kind of pool that in any country legends ou wrapped around, and so in this case many curious stories © cerning elfs and demons are centred round this silent 5 The day was gloriously fine and sunny, but the wind, wh swept through the valley in considerable force, was very ¢ Whether it be due to local conditions or to the altitude I ¢ not determine, but the tree flora is comparatively poor a little interest, and very unlike the belts that occur b 4000 and 6500 feet. The altitude, however, favours co; herbs, and these are rampant. Many interesting shrubs: occur, but with the exception of Silver Fir, Birch and F trees are rare. a With a prospect of 60 li of unknown road before us planned a daylight start, but this scheme did not 1 as the men had to prepare and cook their before starting. The entire absence of food supplies m travelling hereabouts extraordinarily difficult. Ye four of the men journeyed back 45 li in order to food-stuffs, and returned only after dark; several of t were up most of the night grinding maize and pref cakes for the march. On leaving Hsao-lung-tang we ascended the lesser t of a stream through a narrow valley flanked by bare gr mountains having here and there small patches of Silve and Birch forest. The road is one steady climb, t but often difficult owing to the Bamboo scrub. The dec stumps and stark tree trunks speak eloquently of thes n ficent forests which must have formerly existed here | destroyed by axe and fire. To the botanist and lov Nature this vandalism is painful, but presumably it necessary for economic reasons. The unwitting cause ‘ all has been the Irish potato. But Nature took her rev when, twenty-three years ago, the Potato disease d Ss bc CERCIDIPHYLLUM JAPONICUM VAR. SINENSE, 80 FT. TALL. GIRTH 7 FT. FOREST AND CRAG 51 e crop and ruined the country-side, causing a general exodus ‘all the people. Nature is fast reclaiming the whole region, at re-afforestation is a slow process. _ Nearing the head of the pass we entered large timber— fragment of the virgin forest, composed exclusively of er Fir and Birch with a dense undergrowth of Rhodo- ndron. The last named comprise four species—R. Fargesi#, . maculiferum, R. sutchuenense, and R. adenopodum, most f them bushes ro to 20 feet tall, their flowers making one laze of colour. The Silver Fir and Birch trees are of huge mensions, but none was fruiting. On emerging from this match of forest we entered a rolling moorland covered with mboo scrub which merges gradually into areas clad with e dwarf Juniper, coarse grasses, and herbs, amongst which species of Onion was abundant. This moorland extends oss the rounded saddle of the range and for several miles ywn the other side. The crest of the saddle I made 9500 feet titude, and from this point we obtained a fine view of the ies of bare, savagely jagged peaks from which the range heng-néng-chia) takes its name. The highest peaks prob- exceed 11,000 feet altitude, and the lower slopes are sted, but the country is not attractive. Animal life is smarkable for its absence, and hardly a bird was to be seen. e solitude which reigned in this remote, inaccessible region ee g of the wind amongst the tree-tops. In shady places iced 'biag aii vestsiineds onl elnvel the: liehih of: the case le grass was only just beginning to show green. Save for an ipine Primula and a Dandelion no flowers of any sort were ) be seen. On crossing the pass we again entered Hsingshan Hsien, after wandering across moorland for a few miles a short sp ascent led us across a lateral spur into Patung Hsien. m this point a precipitous descent of 2000 feet brought us . ruined and deserted hut at a place called Wapéng, the y accommodation the country-side affords. In the descent peses hundreds of curious rock-stacks—bare blocks of standing erect, with acute edges, like gaunt sentinels ding the neighbourhood. The mountain-side was formerly 4 ip a 4 52 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA under cultivation, but is now abandoned and covered wil grass and coarse herbs. Around the hut a little Rhubarb and much Tang-shén was growing, telling of form plantations of these and other medicines. The country on sides is very steep and much cut up, but stark decaying tr trunks, the sole remnants of former forests, mar the beau of the landscape on all sides. 4 We reached Wapéng (alt. 8400 feet) fairly early in f# afternoon, and the men were busy till nightfall collecting fu and rigging up a bamboo shelter beneath which to pass ti night. The day had been gloriously fine and the night prov equally so, with a distinctly frosty nip after sundown. — roaring fire made things look cheerful, and everybody was the best of health and spirits. The sides of the hut were a and the wind played about one all night. The roof w partially wanting and afforded a good view of the sta heavens above. It was a lonely place, yet one felt pecul happy and glad to be privileged to visit a region so remote fr the world in general. There was no difficulty in getting the men up next r and we were off just as the sun’s rays broke over the landse¢ Dark mists obscured the view for an hour or so, but as the s rose these disappeared and we enjoyed another gloriously day. A steep and precipitous, nay breakneck, descent ¢ 1000 feet brought us to a narrow well-wooded valley, in by forest-clad mountains. The Silver Fir does not desce more than 500 feet from Wapéng, below which its place taken by Hemlock Spruce. This Spruce is not plentiful, giants 100 feet tall by 12 feet in girth occur. The forests we descended quickly become of mixed character, and fin conifers completely disappear. The variety of trees : shrubs was astonishing, and nearly all the more interesting t1 of western Hupeh were to be found and in quantity. 1 are particularly abundant, and I gathered specimens oO dozen species in flower. Four species of Rhododendron o¢ scattered, but not in quantity. On rocks in places interesting orchid (Pleione Henryi) abounds and was one I of flowers. The Davidia is fairly common, and the cur Euptelea Franchetii and Tetracentron sinense are the comm C FOREST AND CRAG 53 trees. A feature in these woods was Staphylea holocarpa, a mall tree covered with pendulous trusses of white and rosy- ink flowers. A Horse Chestnut (4sculus Wilsonit), the Jhinese Yellow-wood (Cladrastis sinensis), Hemsley’s Styrax nd Pterostyrax hispidus, all of them large trees, were fairly mmon; Cherries, Bird Cherries and many Pomace@ abound. irch is one of the commonest constituents of these forests ; the more open areas Bamboo scrub forms dense thickets, d high up in the woods Rhododendron maculiferum forms Ss 25 feet tall with a trunk 1 foot in diameter. D Bere and there clearings have been made for the cultiva- on of the medicine ‘‘ Huang-lien” (Coptis chinensis). In ne abandoned clearing were hundreds of Lilium tigrinwm xuri ating amongst the grass and tall herbs. In dark shady laces the noble Lilium mirabile is common. This lily has eg snow-white flowers spotted with red within, and ssy green, cordate leaves. An occasional Spruce or Pine occurs, and at the edge of the forests Cunninghamia pears. Many of the cliffs are clothed with Hemlock Spruce. ch is fairly common, but, with the exception of one or two ergreen species, Oak is very scarce. Hornbeam is not sntiful, and Magnolias are decidedly rare trees; Ash is neral, and the Linden, represented by three or four species, undant. The Laurel family is represented by four species, of them deciduous, including a handsome kind with young iage e of a bronze-red. Honeysuckles are rare, save for the Bebing species Lonicera tragophylla, which has golden- w flowers. Clematis in variety are common, especially dane (white and rosy-red forms) and C. pogonandra | h its top-shaped yellow flowers. Many species of Schis- ndria, all of them a wealth of flowers, Holbellia Fargesii, od the botanically interesting Sinofranchetia sinensis are the tincipal climbers. . _ The road follows the course of a torrent which rises near Vapéng and quickly becomes a considerable stream. The ath is narrow, very rocky and difficult to follow, and how ar chairs got through was a puzzle. Both torrent and path {tim nately plunge into a narrow ravine shut in by lofty cliffs, ie | nclimbable and bare. In places the rocks are of limestone, 54 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA | but from 5000 feet downwards slate and mud-shales dominate. At 4500 feet altitude we reached the edge of the f and entered a cultivated area, where there are a few inhabite houses—the first we had seen for two days. Barley and Iris potato are the crops. Near the edge of the forest the flows underground for about a mile. On rocks here pileata abounds as a fluviatile shrub ; the curious climb Hosiea sinensis is common, covering rocks fully exposed to t sun. In the open country I noted in full flower a fi specimen of the Chinese Tulip tree (Liriodendron chi 70 feet tall and 5 feet in girth. A precipitous descent, through fields margined with Te bushes, led to the tiny hamlet of Sha-kou-ping, where the we had followed joins with a very considerable stream down from the north-east. The united waters plunge at into a ravine and finally enter the Yangtsze a few above the city of Patung. Sha-kou-ping is only 2600 above sea-level, and is hemmed in on all sides by lof cliffs. The flora is that common to the glens and gorg around Ichang, and the wealth of flowers was extraordinar The Banksian rose is one of the commonest shrubs het abouts, and was laden with masses of fragrant white Opium Poppy was abundant and the whole side was gay with the colour of flowers. Styrax Vei occurs here, and trees 12 to 40 feet tall were masses of i white. From Sha-kou-ping we toiled slowly up the rocky rav down which the main stream rushes. A paper-mill or t are located here, but houses are few and far between. T rocks are of slaty shales, often very rotten, and the torr is a succession of rapids and cataracts. In spite of — turbulent nature of its waters it is full of fish, some of f of good size. 4 The hamlet of Ma-hsien-ping, our intended destinati¢ proved to be a miserable place of some half a dozen b all filled with people engaged in collecting tea. We fore journeyed on for another ro li to some farmhouses Shui-ting-liangtsze, and arrived just as the sun was sett FOREST AND CRAG 55 behind the range. We found accommodation in a large farm- house, alt. 3900 feet. The day’s journey proved very arduous, but there was much by way of compensation. The scenery s sublime and the flora wonderfully rich and varied. In all thered specimens of upwards of fifty new kinds of woody plants, many of them previously unknown. This region is one the richest I have visited, and I subsequently secured a fine ul of seeds, the great majority of the plants raised from them ng now found growing and thriving in many gardens of Bpe and America, (Later I again traversed this same n, and owing to heavy rains was over a week in crossing Saiemtry between Hsao-lung-tang and Shui-ting-liangtsze, a flooded torrent holding us up for three consecutive days.) It was nearly midnight when all was quiet last night, the r pein loud in their grumbling against taking the road to Ta Hsien instead of that to Wushan Hsien. The reports : Hhiad heard indicated a bad time ahead for all of us and for men in particular, owing to the extreme poverty of the untry-side. I heard them as I lay in bed, but fortunately celia were brought to me. _ It was later than usual when we got away in the morning. After a steep ascent we meandered along the mountain-side, un d ultimately crossed over into Fang Hsien again by a low P ' s, alt. 5600 feet. This is the real watershed of the Han and Yangtsze River systems. The Sheng-néng-chia is a gigan- tic spur thrust out from the backbone of the chain, and the streams which take their rise from three sides of this spur down to the Yangtsze. From the watershed we had a od view of the Sheng-néng-chia peaks bearing E.S.E., id of some equally lofty mountains to the east, evidently in the vicinity of the Yangtsze itself. On both sides of the atershed is a rather broad cultivated valley bounded by razor- cked hills clothed with woods of Oak and Pine. Varnish ss abound on the edges of the fields and Walnut trees are al . Ocommon. Farmhouses are scattered over the country-side, F ¢ the crow of the Pheasant, the coo of the Wood Pigeon i the notes of the Cuckoo were heard on all sides. By the , are many fine trees of Sweet Chestnut and Magnolia, id one very fine specimen of Corylus chinensis, 120 feet tall = . SICE 56 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA and 12feetingirth. Many medicines are cultivated hereabe more especially Rhubarb and Tang-shén. Populus la carpa, with huge handsome foliage, is one of the commone trees. q After a few miles the cultivated valley ends and we ent a narrow defile flanked by steep, well-wooded mountai Hereabouts the interesting Sinowilsonia Henryi is commot forming a small, bushy tree with handsome foliage and lc pendulous racemes of inconspicuous flowers. The most mental tree, however, is a fine Crab Apple, which was | with umbels of pure white fragrant flowers borne on —- stalks. Issuing from this defile we entered a small c | flat and found lodgings at the hamlet of Pien-chin, alt. ab ¢ The vegetation during the day’s journey was not vel remarkable, though I added sixteen kinds of plants to tl collection. Noteworthy on the rocks and cliffs was Vil rhytidophyllum, with its large flat corymbs of dirty flowers, which are not very pleasing to the nostril. In t defilethe mountain-side is rich in shrubs; amongst which vario Rhododendrons were prominent ; Rhododendron indicum w common and Rosa sericea was just opening its flowers. All d: Oak woods were common; but these never contain much tha of more than passing interest. In abandoned cultivated a small Poppy, resembling the common Iceland Poppy, \ deep yellow (occasionally orange) flowers was very abunda and attractive. In shady places the large yellow flowe " Chelidonium lasiocarpum made a fine show, and common bare limestone cliffs are Corydalis Wilsonti and C. tomento: both species with yellow flowers and glaucous foliage. yu our lodgings there was much cultivation, maize, barley, p and the Irish potato being the principal crops. erty mills occur by the side of the stream, bamboo pulp b raw material from which the paper is made. On leaving Pien-chin we followed a river to a point w is joined by a tributary stream which we crossed anlh th ascended the road which skirts its banks. This stream is gen for a Hupeh torrent, and for ro li the road is of the easiest. mountain-sides are covered with shrubs and trees; among whi Cercidiphyllum was conspicuous. Occasional houses and sm THE LARGE-LEAVED POPLAR (POPULUS LASIOCARPA) 50 FT. TALL, GIRTH 5 FT. FOREST AND CRAG 57 satches of cultivation occur, but the country generally is very sparsely peopled. Populus lasiocarpa is abundant, and large anches are commonly driven in the ground to make fences ; these branches take root and form groves. A magnificent tree sf Ailanthus Vilmoriniana, 150 feet tall and 20 feet in girth, was passed, and I was astoundedat the huge sizeof this specimen. ngled masses of Actinidia chinensis and various kinds of wild s were everywhere abundant, filling the air with soft wrance. Leaving this delightful mountain stream we made sep ascent of goo feet and then, to our great surprise, mtered a broad level valley. This valley was evidently in rlier times a mountain lake—to-day the margins arecultivated ind the centre is a marsh. The whole district is known as Yhu-ku-ping or Ta-chu-hu,—the latter name having reference its former condition as a lake. A flat area of this character mique in these regions, as far as my knowledge goes. Several oads cross this flat and we took the one for Taning Hsien. the wayside strawberries, white and red, luxuriate and were ry good eating. Quite a number of horses and cattle were Tazing in this valley, and the country could support many more. After meandering some 15 li over the easiest of roads we de a very steep and fatiguing ascent to alt. 7300 feet, and d over into the province of Szechuan. From the neck of divide, looking away E.S.E., we obtained a good view of he Sheng-néng-chia and the main and subsidiary ranges and eaks—nothing but mountains on every side save the tiny alley at our feet which we had just crossed. In the ascent we assed many shrubs in full flower; particularly striking were he various kinds of Viburnum, Deutzia, Abelia, and Cornus. _ precipitous descent through a ravine and we reached the ostel at Hwa-kuo-ling, alt. 6350 feet, where plantations of thubarb were common and several other medicinal plants ultivated. The road we were following is called the “‘ Great salt road,” jut we only met four men carrying salt in the day’s march. n deed, on the whole journey we encountered practically no faffic. This wild mountainous country supports only a very tse population and foreign trade has no chance hereabouts. jie great difficulty was in securing enough food for the men. 58 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA At Chu-ku-ping we managed to get one good meal from local head-man and bought portions of a wild pig killed. At the hostel nothing was obtainable and the men ha to eke out on the small rations they had with them. is common in these regions and nearly every one is affected. _ would seem to be hereditary, since I noticed children in arr showing unmistakable swellings in the throat. Boisterous winds and heavy clouds alternating with sunshine marked our first day's journey in eastern We were again amongst cliffs of hard limestone and the se strikingly resembles that of the Yangtsze Gorges and contiguo country. The whole region is too steep for cultivation, habitations are few and far between and most dilapid character. The soil is stiff, clayey loam and the few crops | saw were wheat, Rye (Secale fragile), Irish potato, maize, a pulse. The cliffs are for the most part well timbered, the common trees and shrubs of Hupeh are represented. FP Armandi is very abundant and P. Henryi is also comp Odd trees of Spruce and Hemlock also occur. Son F men of Acer grisewm, 60 feet tall, 7 feet in girth, with c cinnamon-red papery bark was the feature of the day’s m unfortunately, it was badly situated for photographing. 3ee Yellow-wood and Dipteronia sinensis were common trees route. “y The road is one long succession of ascents and desce! and most fatiguing. In the afternoon, after a particul: trying ascent, pattem nape ti Oak (chiefly Quercus variabilis and Q. aliena) and Chestnut, the latter laden with its white, evil-smelling f Walnut and Varnish trees are everywhere abundaiill ; Campanula punctata is a common weed of cultivation. — foreigner had ever before traversed this region and the f were very timid, locking up their houses and hiding th : from view at our approach. The cliffs in this neighbourhoos full of caves and many of these are bricked up to form p) € refuge in troublous times. We found lodgings for the nigt Peh-kuo-yiien, alt. 3750 feet, in the house of the head-m the hamlet. Food-stufis were scarce and there il difficulty in persuading the people to part. What lit FOREST AND CRAG 59 J eventually obtain was at famine prices and the grumbling vas loud on all sides. _ The following morning we descended by a moderately easy ath to a torrent and then commenced a _heart-breaking scent of some 2600 feet. It was excessively hot and I do not amber perspiring so much before. A rugged, precipitous, sely populated country is this, and I never wish to see it ain. Limestone regions are magnificent from the scenic nt of view, but for travelling over they are fierce and duous beyond words! Our destination was Hsao-pingtsze d no one knew the distance. Inquiries made as often as ple always elicited the same reply: ‘‘ Seven or 8 li from h-kuo-yiien, 7 or 8 li to Hsao-pingtsze.’’ Late in the after- on the distance to go increased to 30 li and did not shorten til we suddenly sighted the two huts which form the hamlet Hsao-pingtsze ! _ The ascent was largely under cultivation, but the final e was through jungle. Lonicera tragophylla is common nd was in full flower, but we saw no good plants. A bush f Schizophragma integrifolium, one mass of the purest white, the clifis, was conspicuous from afar. But the flora ener: y is very ordinary, with Rhododendron discolor and . Mariesit common here and there. On reaching the top of he cliffs we entered a cultivated slope where Walnut and farnish trees abound. The district is called Ta-ping-shan nd consists of several scattered farmhouses surrounded by elds of maize, pulse, barley, and Irish potato. At one of se farmhouses my followers managed to secure a good meal high spirits prevailed in consequence. On leaving this place we continued to ascend by an easy h skirting rolling downs. A few scattered houses occur : couple of miles but were mostly deserted, and we soon all signs of cultivation and habitation behind us. The s are treeless and clad mostly with grass with scattered s of Willow, Barberry and Spirea. The depressions tween the hills were masses of blue Forget-me-not. The . te _— would make excellent grazing ground for cattle. over at 7950 feet altitude, we descended by an easy B for a mile or so and passed a couple of huts surrounded 60 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA by extensive plantations of Medicinal Rhubarb. herbs luxuriate hereabouts, and among them Iris Wilso with its yellow flowers was conspicuous, covering large a Eventually we reached the edge of a precipice, down wh the road fairly tumbles for 5 li to Hsao-pingtsze. ~ hamlet, as the name indicates, is situated on a tiny fl (probably caused by a landslide) and boasts two miserab dilapidated houses. We took up lodgings in the smaller a presumably less squalid of the two, but there were little choose between them in all conscience. On three sides t hamlet is walled in by steep cliffs and the fourth is the ed of a precipice itself. It was only some 30 yards from our I to the edge of this precipice, and the view from this pc one of the most extraordinary and wonderful my eyes h: ever beheld. Below me (some 4000 feet the morrow prov at an acute angle lay a small village with a considerable riy flowing past it. Beyond this was range upon range of bs treeless, sharp-edged ridges, averaging 5000 to 6000 feet height, with outstanding higher peaks and grander rar the beyond. The rocks are mainly of limestone, white, gr and reddish, giving a bizarre appearance to the whole sce Never have I looked upon a wilder, more savage and | inviting region. A storm was brewing and the light rapi failing, making it impossible to take a photograph, the no photograph could have produced a picture that would an adequate idea of the savage grandeur of the whole sce It was indeed sufficient to awe and terrorize one. Such sce sink deep into the memory and the impressive still produces an effect which is felt for long years afterwai Soon the angry rain-clouds darkened and blotted out whole scene and the next moment a thunderstorm burst | us. taco tiie gltvayithe’ tia duea eae a hovel being like a sieve, the rain soon converted the r of the hut into a quagmire. We huddled together a what we could to keep dry and warm, but the night p long and cheerless. | Soon after daybreak next morning we made our < from these wretched quarters, but rain was still falling, a the wonderful scene of the preceding evening nothi ag ? NLL VIHSNVL AO HOWTTIA LANYMVN WHO FOREST AND CRAG 61 sible from the gap but an ocean of clouds. The descent is nost precipitous and for the first 2000 feet we fairly tumbled wn. Afterwards it became more gradual and led over a 4 sp cultivated slope of red clayeysoil, making walking difficult. where is this descent easy, and very glad were we all that r route was down instead of up this mountain-side. At the oot of the descent the road leads through a rocky defile to merge on the banks of a clear-water river some 60 yards road. Across this we were ferried to Tan-chia-tien, the village e saw from near our lodgings last night. This village consists yf some fifty houses which are huddled together and overhang he river in front and cling to the cliff behind in an extra- wdinary manner. From this village a kind of long street vith houses scattered here and there along its length extends r2 miles to the village of Chikou, situated at the junction of river with another of almost equal size. A mile or so n Chikou up the secondary stream are the salt wells of faning-ching. r The road we struck at Tan-chia-tien is a highway leading jorthwards to Shensi and southwards to Kuichou Fu on the Yangtsz¢ River. Hereabouts and down to Taning Hsien, 2 miles distant, and northwards I know not how far, the liffs are sheer to the water's edge. The road is well graded and a good 6 feet broad, and has been excavated or blasted fom the solid rock. _ From Chikou to Taning Hsien is said to be 30 li with not a house or hovel between. To cover this we with difficulty mgaged boats, long, narrow, lightly built affairs (Sin-po-tzu), uurned up at prow and stern, with no oars and steered by ong sweeps projected fore and aft. The current was strong and rapids numerous; aided by a freshet we covered the Whole distance in halfanhour. The brief journey was through me grand chasm, the walls of rock being sheer to the water’s e with no space even for a shingle-bank to lodge. These siffs are treeless and mostly bare with here and there grassy : tches and clumps of delicate, graceful Bamboo (Arundinaria da). The road zigzags around the cliffs on the right ank well above high-water mark, and every inch of it has n blasted from the hard wall of rock. Stone gates and 62 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA barriers occur at intervals, but there are no houses. This r¢ is of such a nature that time and neglect can affect it but li but it is now scarcely used except by occasional pedest and salt-carriers when the river is impracticable. I tried ha to discover when and by whom the road was built but fe no one who could tell me. It is evidently one of the anci arteries of China, and probably dates back to the discove of the salt-wells. It struck me as being an old military and may probably have been built centuries ago when Kuic! Fu'was‘a place of infinitely greater importance Saas to-day. The river I have mentioned, known locally as the il Ho, rises near the borders of Shensi, Hupeh, and Szechuan, 4 after flowing nearly due south enters the Yangtsze at Wush Hsien. From Chikou boats descend to its mouth, 200 li dist Taning Hsien, alt. 750 feet, the most easterly inland te in Szechuan, is situated on the right bank of the river, hi about 100 yards broad, and eweeping fsces the Gana curve. The town is wedged in on the side of a mour : as ee “ ; » " % 7 66 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA to become fascinating, and may easily be carried too far. 7 facts above recorded are best left until the geology of Ch generally is more accurately known. Coming down to historical times we learn that the reg previous to the advent of the Chinese was peopled by aboriginal population divided into the kingdom of Pa i east and the kingdom of Shu in the west. This population has entirely disappeared, but records in the sh of well-constructed caves having square entrances are fo scattered all over the Red Basin. These caves are especi abundant around Kiating Fu. A little investigation of t interesting places has been attempted, and fragments of pe and odds and ends discovered. The entrances to these ca could only be closed from the outside, and from pr act, other details, it is probable that they served as the b of the chiefs and more wealthy among this extintty ! rather than as dwelling-places or harbours of refuge. Dor they have been subsequently used for these latter purp but that they were designed for tombs seems to best il their origin. From Chinese history we learn that as as 600 B.c. the kingdom of Pa had relations with the Chi kingdoms of Ts’u, which occupied the regions north of barrier ranges. Later, Pa princesses married Ts’u Ts’uwas in time conquered by Ts’in (another Chinese kingd which gradually absorbed Pa, and finally conquered Shua 315 B.c. A military road was commenced from the neighb hood of modern Hanchung Fu, designed to connect witl region around modern Chengtu, by Ts’in-shih Hwang a 220 B.c. This road, which enters Szechuan from across barrier ranges near Kuangyuan Hsien, is still in exister the great highway connecting Chengtu with Hanchung Sian Fu, and, ultimately, Peking itself. For the next f centuries the history of this region is full of war, rebellic 1, internecine strife. Usurpers established petty dom the country from time to time, only to disappear < awful slaughter and bloodshed. There is scarcely a squz of the whole region but what recalls scenes of valour, trez a and carnage. In the latter half of the thirteenth century famous Tartar, Kublai Khan, carried his arms victoric VIEW IN THE RED BASIN TYPICAL A ee SO ee THE RED BASIN OF SZECHUAN 67 er nearly the whole of modern China, and formed an Empire lich the succeeding Ming and Manchu dynasties maintained nore or less intact. Since the time of Kublai Khan many rebellions have ept over Szechuan, decimating the population and paralysing lustry. The present population is mainly derived from nig ants (voluntary and otherwise) who settled there during e early half of the eighteenth century. A census taken in D. 1710 returned only 144,154 souls for the whole province. -day the population is estimated at 45,000,000! In spite ff all the long-sustained wars and bloody rebellions, agri- ture has managed to subsist, and the whole of the Red Basin a lasting monument to Chinese genius and industry in matters ficultural. An abundant water-supply and constant tillage necessary to obtain a full crop from these sandy clays d marls. Fortunately, the whole region is one vast net- tk of streams, all of which drain into the mighty Yangtsze. Chinese have taken full advantage of this intricate river ystem, and devised manifold methods of irrigation. These évices, combined with the untiring patient industry of the eople, have converted an incipient ‘‘ bad land”’ into a rich nd fertile region of terraced fields. In no part of China that ave visited are the people entitled to greater praise for eritorious agricultural accomplishment than throughout this In many parts of this region the river valleys are so steeply ‘Oded that very little cultivatable bottom-land is formed. onsequently the rice belt is relegated to slopes and summits he low, flattened hills. In limestone regions the bottom- is constitute the main rice belt; but in the sandstone sgions the opposite obtains. The climate of the whole region mild and genial, and during both winter and summer the land cropped. Rice is the great summer crop with maize, millet, et potato, sugar-cane, tobacco, pulse, and various other c The principal winter crops are wheat, rape, peas, road beans, cabbage, Irish potato, etc. Formerly opium was vated in enormous quantities as a winter-crop, but this ‘as lately been almost entirely suppressed. Cotton does not drive in the Red Basin, though its culture is attempted in 68 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA many districts, notably Yilung Hsien and in Tungchuan Cotton is the one commodity that this region has to i and neatly all its surplus products go to meet this deficienc But, if cotton is very little grown, many kinds of hemp a produced in quantity, though very little is used for texti purposes. Silk production is everywhere an industry of impor ance; and in many districts the staple. Only the very | are without some silk garment, though such is only habitua worn by the more wealthy. Tea is grown in many distri both for local consumption and for export. In the mo westerly parts tea for the Thibetan market is a staple produ Wood Oil and many other valuable economic trees are a largely cultivated. Fruit is generally grown, including peac apricots, plums, apples, pears, and oranges in varie Oranges thrive remarkably well in this red sandstone, and extensive orchards are a wonderful sight during the montl December. Tangerine varieties are most generally cultivat and the fruit in season can be purchased at the rate of hundred or more for two shillings! The tight-skinned v are less frequently grown, and are more expensive. ou Lu Chou are plantations of Litchi trees. When they came ir their original homes the settlers evidently brought with i their favourite trees and grains and planted them around tl new homesteads. These introductions; and the favour climate, explain the presence of such a vast variety of ¢ vated plants, which is probably greater than that found in other province in China. 4 The steeper and rougher country is covered with small we of Oak, Pine; and Cypress, elsewhere trees are confined to vicinity of streams, houses, temple-grounds, wayside shrit and tombs. P The streams are navigable for extreme distances, an perfect network of roads traverse the basin in every direct These roads are, on the whole, well built for Chinese roac s, are not kept in thorough repair any more than those else vi] in the land. The streams, however, are well supplied ferries, and well-built bridges, substantially construc od stone, and kept in good repair, are a feature throughout entire region. Large cities, market villages, hamlets, and fa ‘La Gt HLATD “TIVL “La 08 (SSOHMONNW SOANIdVS) HUMLdAVOS V fide We ah edi 5 I ee ee THE RED BASIN OF SZECHUAN 69 dot the land, which everywhere appears prosperous 1 its inhabitants contented. Drought occasionally brings m ne, but, on the whole, the Red Basin suffers much less om this dread calamity than do other and less favoured parts of the eighteen provinces of China. The mineral wealth of the Red Basin is not varied, but enormous brine deposits occur scattered over the whole area, and are worked at depths varying from almost surface level to 3000 feet. In the eastern parts, Kuichou Fu, Wén-tang-ching, r example, the rivers have scoured the rocks until the brine- 9osits are practically exposed. In the west, however, as at u-ting-chiao, situated on the left bank of the Min River a few ss below Kiating Fu, the brine is found at about 500 feet % n. At Tzu-liu-ching, on the left bank of the To River, e the richest deposits occur, the brine is found at depths 1 1000 to 3000 feet. Salt is worked in some thirty-nine districts in the Red Basin. is everywhere a Government monopoly, and its production d subsequent distribution are rigorously controlled. The nual output is estimated at about 300,000 tons. At Tzu-liu- ing most of the brine is evaporated by inflammable gas; in all * places the brine is evaporated by coal heat. In boring the ) wells, it is uncertain whether brine or gas will be struck, ut t both are equally valuable. The occurrence of this in- nable gas indicates the presence of petroleum beds at s I greater depth. _ Coal is found in greater or lesser quantities scattered all over the Red Basin, and is always found not very far removed mn brine pits. This coal varies from lignite to anthracite. The average quality is poor, but one or two good seams have bee os. notably at Lung-wang-tung, a few miles north | te 0 am ur early ‘description of the Red Basin needs some ampli- fication to explain the presence of coal and other minerals. \lthough the sedimentary sandstones are in a state of undis- bed stratification over a great part of this area, yet there is lissecting this Red Basin a number of linear elevations, in ch the underlying limestone is bent up from a great depth. s limestone forms in every case an axial core, lined on either PETE IT RE SO RNR TS IT RTH eC 70 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA side by highly inclined strata, among which there is ordinarily noticeable, next to the axis, a double belt of coal-formation, — followed on either side by strata of red sandstone standing on edge. Baron Richthofen estimates that ‘‘ the area of the coal- bearing ground in Szechuan probably exceeds in size the total area of every other province of China.” But probably through- out nine-tenths of this area the coal-measures are buried deep beneath the superincumbent strata, and with trifling exceptions can never become available for mining. In the linear elevations, above referred to, the belts of coal-formations, though narrow, are of great length. They are most readily accessible in those places where rivers have cut through and exposed the ends of the seams. Mining is done by means of horizontal adits working from an exposed surface inwards. Coal is very generally obtainable throughout the Red Basin, and is the ordinary fuel of the entire region. Iron-ores occur scattered throughout the entire region, but though in the aggregate the iron-smelting industry is a con- siderable one, in no one place is iron made on a large scale. Sulphate of iron (copperas) is found in combination with coal in one or two districts, notably in Kiangan Hsien. Lime is common to all the linear elevations mentioned above, occurring in juxtaposition with coal, and is burnt in kilns in the usual way. | Gypsum is found and worked in one or two places, notably Mei Chou and Pengshan Hsien, both districts on the Min River, » between Kiating and Chengtu. | Mineral oil in small quantity occurs in the district of Pengch’i Hsien, where a native company has made some attempts to develop the industry, but with unsatisfactory results. ) Other less important minerals occur in small quantities. The precious metals, gold and silver, are not found in the Red Basin proper but in the mountainous country to the west of this region, where copper, lead, and zinc ores also occur. ‘ In reference to gold it should, however, be mentioned that rude placer mining is carried on during the winter months, throughout the numerous shingle banks exposed in the beds of the Yangtsze, Kialing, and Min Rivers. On the Yangtsze this precarious industry is first to be noted some 50 miles below Aes a Se ae a a THE RED BASIN OF SZECHUAN 71 Ichang, but it is not general until the region west of the Gorges is reached. The industry is carried on by the unemployed peasantry, and the returns are most insignificant. This gold is in all probability brought down by the Yangtsze and its larger tributaries during the summer floods. There is no record of any gold-bearing quartz having been found im situ in the _ Red Basin proper. In the mountains bordering its western and north-western limits, gold quartz is found in greater or $ quantities, and all the principal rivers of this region either | take their rise in, or flow through, these ranges. This fact _ explains the presence of small quantities of gold far removed _ from the gold-bearing strata. CHAPTER VII EASTERN SZECHUAN NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY FROM TANING HSIEN TO TUNGHSIANG HsIEN HE region described in this chapter was traversed by Lieut.-Colonel C. C. Manifold and Captain E. W. S. Mahon when surveying for a possible route for the pro- posed Hankow-Szechuan Railway in 1903 or 1904, I am not sure which. There is no record of any other traveller having crossed this part of eastern Szechuan, though it is very possible that missionaries may have done so. I do not know the conclusions arrived at by these surveyors, but the con- struction of a railway along the route I traversed would be a difficult and costly undertaking. The following narrative is compiled from my diary,and may, perhaps, convey a brief idea of the nature of the country and the flora found in the more easterly parts of the Red Basin. As will be gathered, I took ten days to cover the distance, but I travelled leisurely, and the journey could be accomplished in six days. June 28. —Yesterday we spent the day at Taning Hsien, refitting and preparing for our journey westwards to Chengtu Fu. Money exchange proved an involved and difficult business. Ten-cash pieces, both Hupeh and Szechuan currency, are accepted here at 20 per cent. discount. This means that the purchasing power of a thousand such cash is only equal to 800 string-cash. Farther west, Hupeh 10-cash pieces are not current, and the Szechuan 10-cash piece is only accepted for two days’ journey west of this town. We had therefore to burden ourselves with string-cash, which added considerably to the weight of our loads. A Seam cash in 10-cash pieces | EASTERN SZECHUAN 73 _ weighs less than 2 Ib.; in string-cash the same equivalent | weighs over 8 Ib.! If there is one reform more badly needed _ than another in China it most certainly is in the matter of currency. j Leaving Taning Hsien by way of the west gate we made _aslight ascent and entered a narrow, highly cultivated valley, _ flanked on our right by fairly high and on the left by lower _ mountains, nearly treeless and sparsely cultivated. The town ~ of Taning lies in a depression, and the morning mists obscured _ the general view. It is a very small place, with much of the _ land enclosed within its walls given over to cultivation. An _ outer gate, wall, and block-house guards the west gate proper. _ Ascending the valley by an easy road which more or less | a fairly large tributary stream of the Taning Ho, we eached the village of Che-tou-pa before noon. Rice was abundantly cultivated everywhere, irrigation being effected _ by means of large “‘ Persian ’’ wheels. Much cotton is culti- vated following wheat, the winter crop. Maize was 5 feet tall and in full flower. Paliurus orientalis, a thin tree 30 to 50 feet tall, is very common, and was laden with white, _ circular, odd-looking fruits. Weeping Willows, Cypress, and fine specimens of a hairy-leaved, small-fruited Hog Plum i Spondias) were noteworthy, with Bamboo groves in abundance. - On leaving Che-tou-pa we deserted the main tributary stream and ascended a small branch. The valley narrows, and the hills are more wooded, chiefly with Cypress. The road is easy, though here and there sadly in need of repair. We 1 journeyed slowly, and eventually crossed over a ridge of low c is to the hamlet of Lao-shih-che, which we reached at 5 p.m. This tiny place, alt. 1950 feet, and 55 li from Taning Hsien, consists of half a dozen houses, scattered through a ow valley with rice fields on all sides. The people were very nice, but inquisitive. We were on the edge of the Red Basin and much of the ‘soil had the characteristic red colour. Wood Oil trees are commonly cultivated, but cotton was not in evidence during he afternoon. In a grove I noted some magnificent trees of stacia chinensis and Sapindus mukorossi. The young shoots f the former are cooked and eaten, but the round fruits of 74 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA the Sapindus are used as soap, Celtis trees are common, their smooth, pale-grey bark rendering them conspicuous, On a ridge we noted many trees of the interesting “‘ Button tree’ (Adina racemosa). These trees were 30 to 60 feet tall, 2 to 4 feet in girth, and the finest specimens of their kind I have met with. The Chinese Pine (Pinus Massoniana) is general, but by far the commonest tree of the day was the Cypress (Cupressus funebris). The road proved a pleasant change; instead of wild and savage scenery, low rounded hills backed by steeper mountains, all rather treeless, and for the most part cultivated, were the order of the day. Here and there were a few outstanding cliffs of limestone with an occasional temple crowning odd crags. At Taning Hsien we secured a number of new coolies, and these men described the country passed through in the afternoon as Laolin (wilderness). This immensely amused my Ichang men, who recommended these newcomers to try the Sheng-néng-chia before speaking of ‘‘ Laolin ” ! The day was grilling hot, and all were fairly exhausted on arrival at Lao-shih-che. Whether it was the heat or the after effects of a day’s holiday I could not determine, but I was called upon to play “‘ Doctor”’ to nearly half my followers. The majority were suffering from stomach troubles, several from filthy sores. Epsom salts, permanganate of potash, and iodoform dressings soon improved the majority. The next day was gloriously fine, but scarcely so hot as the previous day, or perhaps the slightly increased altitude made it more bearable. The whole day we travelled nearly due west through a narrow valley bounded by moderately high parallel ranges. The road continues easy with occasional ascents and descents. We were still on the fringe of the Red Basin, but in the afternoon grey sandy soils were most in evidence. Rice is cultivated wherever sufficient water is obtainable, and was scarcely ever out of our view. Maize is the other principal crop, with various kinds of pulse and on Irish potato. Thesweet potato is cultivated here and there, and Wood Oil trees are even more abundant than before. Much oil is evidently produced in this region, and we —_ many oil-presses during the day. The parallel ranges ONIMALId TAOS TWYOAN ALVNYO HLIM NWOAWTIOSAVIN EASTERN SZECHUAN 75 from 500 to 1000 feet above the valley, sparsely cultivated, and for the most part well timbered with Cypress (Cupressus funebris), Pine (Pinus Massoniana), and Oak (Quercus serrata). oplar is a common tree, and by the sides of streams Weeping Willows abound. Shrubs in variety occur the most note- orthy being Itea tlicifolia and Torricellia angulata. Nowhere e have I seen this latter shrub so plentiful; it favours the des of streams, ditches, and rocky gullies, forming a densely bush 8 to 12 feet tall. The fruit when ripe is black, and "silage in large pendulous cymes. The Itea occurs in rocky s, and its pendulous tails of greenish-white flowers are 1 18 inches long. The leaves very closely resemble those #f the common Holly, and when not in flower it might easily > mistaken for that plant. Houses are scattered along the route, but the population sparse. We met a few mule trains, but there was really ery little traffic on the road. We found accommodation for e night at Hsia-kou, a prettily situated hamlet, alt. 2800 et, 65 li from Lao-shih-che. Our lodgings were spacious, ‘but the occupants of the house looked unprepossessing opium ee Se Se Fr SR ee RR Se _ At To-chia-pa, a small hamlet passed a few miles before reaching Hsia-kou, a road branches off to the northward and ds to Chéngkou Ting. It was said to be a hard road to travel over. _ On leaving Hsia-kou we immediately plunged into a ravine ith steep limestone cliffs 300 to 500 feet high; the road lows the dry bed of a torrent. At the head of this ravine we made a slight ascent, and wandered across low mountain- tops for a few miles, then descended and crossed a branch of the Kuichou Fu River by a covered bridge. Up to this point Pine and the Chinese Fir (Cunninghamia lanceolata) are common. At the bridge I photographed the largest tree of 'Platycarya strobilacea 1 have seen. This specimen was fully 75 feet tall, with a girth of 6 feet. I had no idea it could attain uch dimensions. A few miles beyond this point we forded he main branch of the Kuichou Fu River, a broad, shallow, clear-water stream, and about noon reached the village of Chiao-yang-tung. Soon afterwards we were overtaken by a 76 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA furious thunderstorm, which arose with amazing suddenness The fury of the storm spent itself in a torrential downpour « short duration, but rain fell steadily during the rest of th day. The rain did not improve the mud road, and our progres was slow and difficult in consequence. During the whol afternoon we made a steady ascent, skirting the mountain-side through woods of Pine and Oak. Eventually the road ente1 a narrow sloping valley, at the head of which we found lodging for the night in two houses which constitute the hamlet « Shan-chia-kou, having travelled 65 li. Around this place th flora is varied and essentially cool-temperate in characte: Bushes of Mock Orange (Philadelphus) were conspicuous 0 all sides with their wealth of pure white flowers. The Hautbo strawberry is abundant, and around our hostel I gathered i a few minutes enough of these luscious fine-flavoured whit berries to stew for dinner. The Torricellia was again commot It ascends up to 3500 feet altitude, and often forms a —_ inelegant tree. We saw very little rice during the day, maize and iri potato being the chief crops. There is practically no traff on this road; the mule-trains seen yesterday evidently cam down the road from Chéngkou Ting. Population is sparse, an what there is looked strongly addicted to the opium habi So far, however, we had not seen any signs of poppy. 4 A magnificent day ushered in the new month. The mornin was bearably hot, but the afternoon scorchingly so. A hundre yards beyond our lodgings we reached the head of a ridge, an an abrupt descent of a couple of thousand feet or so led to natrow valley where much rice, maize, Irish potato, and little Hemp (Cannabis) are cultivated. The parallel range flanking this valley are of limestone with outstanding baz rocks and cliffs, very little cultivated but with good woods « the common Pine. Here and there in the valley we passed fir trees of Sassafras, Sweet Chestnut, Sweet Gum (Ligquidambar Chinese Fir, and Poplar. At the head of the valley we made slight ascent to the top of a ridge. Below us, some 2500 fee flowed a considerable river walled in by lofty li oI precipices. It was 10.30 a.m. when we reached the top | this ridge, and the rest of the day’s march was a more or k EASTERN SZECHUAN 77 precipitous descent to the river, which we reached at Sha-to-tzu about 3 p.m. In its early stages the descent is as difficult as ‘it well could be—over loose Rowley-raglike debris, down and up steep steps, and over slopes of greasy clay. We crossed i ne or two cultivated slopes, but most of the time the road ‘skirts around the sides of cliffs. At the edge of one precipice, 500 to 1000 feet sheer, the road is carried through a narrow ‘tunnel some 50 yards long and 3 feet broad at the exit. This ‘tunnel is partly natural and partly made by blasting the hard ‘limestone. It was quite dark within the tunnel save for a fai aint glimmer of light at the exit. Both chairs and loads were ‘with difficulty carried through this tunnel. This roadway is ‘of recent date, and is unique in my experience of Chinese roads. ough as it is it saves about ro li and a very steep ascent nd descent. From the tunnel-way the road skirts the tops of the cliffs th many exasperating and wearying ascents and descents. ‘inally we descended to a small tributary of the main stream and, crossing over, reach Sha-to-tzu, a busy market village and, ‘for the nature of the country, of considerable size. Up the tributary stream some ro li, iron is mined and smelted, the nality being described as good. Around Sha-to-tzu, coal ‘ts worked and lime burnt. _. The river we had with so much fatiguing travel reached (enters the Yangtsze at Yunyang Hsien, distant 150 li. It is a clear-water stream of considerable volume, and is navigable ' for small boats from just below Sha-to-tzu to within 15 li of its }mouth. Salt and a little peddling traffic was noticeable on the toad; also odd loads of medicines, including Tu-chung, the bark of Eucommia ulmoides. The salt is a product of Yunyang Hsien, and is not allowed to enter Taning Hsien. The quality peed to be superior to that found within the latter district. p the flora of the day’s journey was not particularly interest- g, being very much the same as that found in the glens d gorges around Ichang. A new Stachyurus and Abelia gleriana were collected. The Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina a) was particularly abundant in rocky places, its eleg: at foliage and large erect trusses of white flowers with hs ‘ mspicuous yellow anthers making it very attractive. In 78 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA autumn and winter the masses of scarlet fruit render it ex. tremely beautiful. Wood Oil trees were general in rocky places and Hypericum chinense, a wealth of rich golden yellow, wat strikingly handsome, nestling on the cliffs everywhere. Quit a little Ramie (Behmeria nivea) is cultivated, and the peopk were busy stripping the fibre-containing bark from the stems The leaves, like those of several other plants, are used fo feeding pigs. The stripping and cleaning is all done by hanc labour. The day’s march was full of interest, but the intense hea and hard road made the 60 li very trying, and all were glac when the end of the stage was reached. The scenery wa magnificent, and forcibly reminded us of the glens and ravine around Ichang. The railway surveyors must have been fille with despair when they encountered this steep limeston country ! Sha-to-tzu is only about 700 feet altitude, and, in spite o the swift-flowing stream which passes its “ front door,”’ wa suffocatingly hot. We managed to find a good inn witl quarters removed from the street and remarkably private it character. We had no difficulty in changing silver here, bu 10-cash pieces are no longer negotiable. String-cash was th only kind the people would accept. Just below Sha-to-tzu we crossed the river by a ferry whic! is assisted by a convenient rapid, and commenced a ascent. A few hundred feet up we were afforded a good vie of the village we had just left. It contains about a hundre houses, crowded together on a narrow, fan-shaped slope. few temples shaded by large Banyan trees were conspicuou: and the whole made a decidedly pretty scene. The ascent i through cultivated fields, groves of Wood Oil trees, and finall Pine woods. At 3100 feet altitude we crossed a gap, and 20 feet more led to the top of therange. The rest of the day w followed an undulating, easy road which meanders throug! rocky, Pine and Cypress clad mountain-tops, and finall descends to Ché-kou-tzu, which was our destination for the day The country is very pretty ; farmhouses are scattered alon the route, and where possible the land is under cultivatior Rice was of course the crop where water is obtainable, maiz ALY HLYMON *NYISH ONINVE EASTERN SZECHUAN 79 d Irish potato elsewhere. Tobacco is grown; a little of is crop has been noted every day since leaving Taning Hsien. ‘Limekilns were common all day. In one place we saw a | other of men out with guns after Muntjac. They fired ‘several times, but did not succeed in killing the animal during the time we watched the sport. _ A few li before reaching Ché-kou-tzu we passed an un- sually large house of much architectural beauty. It was ected by a rich man named T’ao, who held the purchased ank of ‘‘ Hsien.’”’ He died some twenty years ago, and the amily has fallen on evil times, thanks to idleness and opium. The flora was not very interesting. Some fine trees of ‘ypress and odd ones of Catalpa Duclouxii were noteworthy. ine abounds, and I saw several examples of “ clustered ynes.” These cones, a hundred and more crowded together, ere all small, and appeared to have displaced the male wers. Ché-kou-tzu, alt. 2050 feet, consists of some forty ses situate above the mouth of a stony stream and backed y low mountains, on the top of which is an ancient fort. ~ On leaving Ché-kou-tzu we immediately entered a pretty ley, highly cultivated with rice and bounded by low, ling hills. A large number of farmhouses and a small amlet occur in this small but prosperous valley. Through- at the whole forenoon we traversed a number of such depres- ions separated one from another by low ridges, always ending slightly with the valleys narrowing until finally they ecome mere basins surrounded by rocky limestone mountain- ‘tops. Crossing a final ridge we entered Kai Hsien at a place called Shih-ya-tzu, 35 li from Ché-kou-tzu. Up to this point the scenery is very pretty, the rocky mountain-tops being ¢lothed with woods of Pine and Cypress. Oak is common, and in more open places and around habitations we passed fine ees of Spondias, Pistacia, Paulownia, Tapiscia, and Hovenia | dulcis ; the last covered with masses of white flowers. a The afternoon’s journey was all downhill, ending in a very ipitous descent to Wén-tang-ching. The road led through > plats, odd rice fields, and bare, treeless hilltops, with ad 9 flora of interest. Nearing our halting-place for the day it Was is fearfully hot, and the absence of shade was severely felt. ee ae 80 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA Here and there the hilltops are crowned by old forts buil of dressed stone. These relics (Chaitzu) of turbulent time abound all over the salt districts and more wealthy region of eastern Szechuan. Limekilns, small clay-covered affair: were common en route, and many of the rice fields had bee dressed with slaked lime, Wén-tang-ching is a town of considerable size, by far th largest place we had met with since leaving Ichang. It | built on steep slopes bounding the two sides of a clear-wate stream, and backed by high limestone cliffs. On the south west side these cliffs are stark and sun-baked. Large quar tities of salt are produced here. The brine pits are situated o the foreshore and immediate neighbourhood of the stream. Th supply depends on the state of the river, the lower the water th more brine is obtainable. During summer floods the industr is suspended. The salt is white, powdery, of moderate valued at twenty-six cash per 16-ounce catty. It is tributed throughout the north and west of the Hsien, bt cannot enter the city of Kai Hsien itself. Dust-coal is mine in the neighbourhood and used for evaporating the brine. __ The town consists of about a thousand houses and boas several temples and large guild-halls, that belonging to tl Shensi guild being very prominent on account of its large sit and ornate architecture. Two small pagodas protect the luck: the place, and many Chaitzu crown the surrounding hills. Th inhabitants are not prepossessing, being unusually dirty an over-curious. Some were not over-civil, and there was a sligl scuffle between my men and some rowdies. Our inn was dar suffocatingly hot, and most undesirable in every way. It w: the best we could find, and served its purpose, uncomfortab as it was. Behind the inn is a huge cave with vast stalactit and a cool breeze blowing through it. This is the curiosity: the town, and was pointed out with a great show of pride. — All along the route from Taning Hsien there has been muc argument over the price of food-stuffs. The natives constant putting up the price on my men, this led to heated words, b generally ended in the men getting a fair price. Many | them had travelled too far not to know “ the ropes.” . Wén-tang-ching is only 750 feet altitude, and with q EASTERN SZECHUAN 81 heat from stark surrounding cliffs and hundreds of furnaces is a regular inferno. Prosperous it may be, but it failed to ‘appeal to us, and one and all were glad to quit it. _ A steep ascent of a few hundred feet and we cleared the town. After passing through a large graveyard we descended ‘o an alluvial valley where much sugar-cane, maize, tobacco, and a little cotton is cultivated. The road is broad, paved vith blocks of hard stone, and traverses the valley to its head ‘at Ma-chia-kou, 12 li from Wén-tang-ching. Ma-chia-kou is 2 coal port for the salt-wells. Coal is carried overland ‘some 30 li, and at this point put into small boats and conveyed to the brine-pits. This coal is valued at three cash per catty, the carriers receiving one cash per catty for carrying it down. The boats are small, steered by sweeps fore and aft, and can escend this stream to Kai Hsien, 60 li below Wén-tang-ching, nd from thence to Hsiao Ch’ang on the Yangtsze, 110 li ‘distant. At Ma-chia-kou the road leaves the main stream, Which flows down from the northward, and after crossing a sck descends to a broad stony torrent, which it ascendsthrough r interesting country, eventually leading through a limestone ‘Tavine. The coal supply is of primary importance to the salt- s, consequently the road is kept in good repair. During the forenoon we met hundreds of coolies and many women ‘laden with coal. Iron is found in this neighbourhood, and pigs of this metal were being carried down to the boats. _ On leaving the above-mentioned ravine we traversed a : of rice fields and reached Yi-chiao-tsao about noon. Five li above this hamlet we crossed over, and during the rest of the day’s march descended a narrow valley flanked by steep Cypress-clad slopes. Sweet potato is abundantly cultivated, also rice and maize. Houses are frequent, and the people appear fairly well-to-do. _ We found lodgings for the night at Wang-tung-tsao, alt. 1350 feet, having covered our usual 60 li. The day was terribly hot, making the journey very fatiguing. The inn is 1 autifully situated in a grove of Bamboo and Cypress, but is poor and abominably stinking. Really, it is a pity that such a vile house should defile such a charming spot. _. The next day was also grilling hot, with no signs of a storm = VOL. 1.—6 82 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA to cool the air. Descending a few li we struck a rather broad stream with many red-sandstone boulders in its bed. The road ascends this stream to its source, and steep ascents and descents were all too frequent. We lunched at the village of Kao-chiao, and a more hot, fly-infested, stinking hole, with people more inquisitive, I have not experienced. Savage, snarling, yelping dogs abounded, and these, with the other dis. comforts, did not add relish to the meal. My followers seemed to share my views of this village, and grumbling and male diction were loud on all sides. Our meal did not occupy long and we all felt better when clear of this filthy, pestiferous place. The whole day was spent among sandstone, grey and and we were seldom out of sight of rice fields. Pine but the Cypress does not appear to be at home here, and very sparingly as compared with previous days. Wood trees are common, but the flora generally is not in Eleagnus bushes are common and were in ripe fruit. stems of this shrub (Shan-yeh-wangtzu, or Yang-ming-ni are commonly used for making the long stems of t pipes so frequently seen in this region. The Burdock (A major) is common in stony places and often cultivated, used as medicine under the name of “‘ Yu-pangtzu.” Three li before reaching our lodgings we crossed a ridgs and passing through a stone gateway, entered the district « Tunghsiang Hsien. We found an inn at P’ao-tsze, a scattered hamlet, alt. 2650 feet, 65 li from Wang-tung- The inn is clean and prettily situated in a little valley by low red-stone hills all under cultivation. The host i evidently a man of substance, and amongst other things a reclining chair of novel workmanship, of which he is evi very proud. - There was no breeze last night, and I slept badly, owing to the heat and partly to the occupants of the inn ing in high argumentative tones till past midnight. This is common habit of the Chinese and very exasperating to any or trying to get to sleep. With only 50 li to do to Nan-pa ch’ang the men were: high spirits and set out in style. The road proved easy. one o’clock we had covered the distance, and had a couple ‘Ld 0% HLAIO “TIVL “La 00 (SISNUNIHO VIOVLISId) OIHOVISId ASUNIHO FHL EASTERN SZECHUAN 83 long rests into the bargain. On leaving P’ao-tsze we made a short, steep ascent, and then descended by an easy road lead- ing over and among sandstone bluffs. Twenty-five li on we reached the bed of a small stream and followed it to its union with a large, clear-water stream flowing down from the north- ward. This stream flows past Nan-pa ch’ang and is navigable for small boats down to Tunghsiang Hsien and up-stream some 290 li to Tu-li-kou. Near our destination we passed many | coolies carrying down bright anthracite coal. This comes from _ Fu-che-kou, some 50 li away, and the men receive 200 cash per picul (100 catties) for carrying it down. We also noted f iron in flat slabs, which comes from Tung-che-kou, 25 li distant. i Pine was again the common tree, but Cypress also was fairly common. The sandstone is evidently more favourable to the Pine than to the Cypress. We saw two or three trees of the rare ** Hung-tou-shu ’’ (Ormosia Hosiet). The wood of s tree is highly valued and so heavy that it sinks in water. Wood Oil trees continued abundant, and around Nan-pa ch’ang plantations of Mulberry were being made. Evidently seri- : ulture is about to be attempted in this district. Nan-pa ch’ang, alt. 1550 feet, is a village of considerable ‘size, and is built on a flat bordering the stream. Formerly it was one of the most important centres of the opium trade ‘in Szechuan, and its product was of very superior quality. The opium trade is now completely stopped, and this place has suffered tremendously in consequence. It also boasts a trade in general merchandise, supplying a large area of country to the northward. But opium was its real source of wealth, and with the disappearance of the opium traffic all trade has declined. To the northward a lot of tea is grown and the Le eading people of Nan-pa ch’ang are endeavouring to divert _ this trade from its present headquarters, Taiping Hsien, to their own village. __. Around Nan-pa ch’ang there are a few Mantzu caves. | Everything was very quiet in the village and we attracted little or no attention. We saw a couple of uniformed police, ‘ dd street lamps, and other signs of modern ideas. Leaving 3 village the next morning at 7 a.m., in four small boats, we a at dropped down the beautiful clear-water stream, and reached 84 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA Tunghsiang Hsien at 3 0’clock. The distance is 140 li by water, go li by land. Numerous rapids obstruct the stream, but since the volume of water is comparatively small they are not dangerous. The river is bounded by sandstone cliffs, often steep and covered with Pine, Cypress, and mixed shrubby vegetation. Chaitzu are common, and here and there we passed villages. Cultivation is general, and the crops were beginning to show signs of suffering from drought. Pulse in variety is abundantly cultivated, together with rice and other favourite articles of food. Ordinarily the whole region is one of plenty and prosperity. It was a pleasant change dropping swiftly down this beauti- ful river, and we all enjoyed the journey. On reaching Tung- hsiang Hsien a thunderstorm broke and the rain cooled the “i delightfully. We entered the city of Tunghsiang, alt. 1400 feet, the east gate, and found accommodation in a quiet and moderately clean inn. The city, though not large, seemed ¢ busy place. Formerly it boasted a large traffic in opium, its general trade was then very considerable. It nestles low hills on the right bank of the river, and 6 eee opposite bank by steeper and higher mountains. Sandstone cliffs and bluffs abound, and in some respects the whole scene reminded me of the country around Kiating Fu. ; Our inquiries into the matter of currency disclosed the that Szechuan dollars are accepted here, but 10-cash pieces were still useless. The Roman Catholic and China Mission have established outstations here. An Irish missi ’! belonging to the latter was staying here at the time of my visit, and I enjoyed for an hour or so the pleasure of his company. It was pleasant to hear my own tongue spoken again. since leaving Ichang, 35 days before, had I encountered single foreigner. ays CHAPTER VIII THE ANCIENT KINGDOM OF PA ta g 4 NG es \ ' NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY FROM TUNGHSIANG HsIEN TO PAONING Fu ROM Tunghsiang Hsien the recognized route to Chengtu or Paoning Fu descends the river via Suiting Fu to Ch’u _ Hsien, then strikes westward to Chengtu, north-west to SP acaing Fu. I had no fancy for the main route, since, by g re due west from Tunghsiang Hsien to Paoning Fu, we ‘should explore new ground. My map (War Office, Province of ' Ssu-ch’uan, Eastern Sheet) gave no route, but indicated villages, and it was evident, therefore, that these villages were connected by a road of some sort. Chiangkou seemed a good place to ‘start for, so my men were instructed to find a cross-country Toad to this town. At first the innkeepers, chair hongs, and local officials denied all knowledge of any such road, and indeed ‘of sucha place. But any one who has travelled in China values ‘such denials at their proper worth and is not discouraged. The ‘men who had charge of these inquiries were trusted followers of ten years’ standing, andthough entirely ignorant of the geography _ of the region could be relied upon to ferret out a route if such existed. After about six hours’ investigation, from the magis- trate’s Yamén downwards, I was informed that a small mountain road did exist, but was over hard and difficult Bountry , affording the poorest of accommodation. This was fi ient ; they were told to get an itinerary of this route and ngage a few local men as extra carriers. I went to bed out 10.30 p.m., satisfied that by 6 o’clock next morning erything would be ready for our cross-country jaunt. In my avels about China I have been singularly fortunate in never aving any trouble with the —— In the spring of 1900 3 . i F " Sa all Ne aera gl ~- ania = a 86 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA I engaged about a dozen peasants from near Ichang. These men remained with me and rendered faithful service during the whole of my peregrinations. After a few months’ training they understood my habits thoroughly and never involved me in any trouble or difficulty. Once they grasped what was wanted they could be relied upon to do their part, thereby adding much to the pleasure and profit of my many journeys. When we finally parted in February rg11, it was with genuine regret on both sides. Faithful, intelligent, reliable, cheerful under adverse circumstances, and always willing to give their best, no men could have rendered better, service, This cross-country journey from Tunghsiang Hsien to Paoning Fu, via Chiangkou, promised to be of morethanordinary interest. There was a novelty about it also, since there was no record of any foreigner having attempted it before. The route lay across the old kingdom of Pa (see Chapter VI, p. 66), and I hoped to find some evidences of this ancient race. history is dry, difficult reading, and it is hard to dig out facts. Wars, rebellions, and massacres deluge everything blood; the arts of peace are seldom given any promi The Chinese historians have always treated the races with arrogant contumely, rendering it almost i to discover at this late date anything about the arts and li of these lost peoples. That the modern province of Szech boasted kingdoms and dynasties of its own before the pra of the early Chinese is historical fact. The first Emperor of the Ts’in dynasty, Tsin-shih Hwang or Shih Hwang-ti(221-209B.c.), incorporated part of the kingdom of Pa with the rest his dominions and nominally also that of Shu, whose capital was near modern Chengtu Fu. The succeeding Han dynasty (206 B.c. to A.D. 25) made the conquest complete. Since this time no aboriginal chief has ruled the Red Basin of Szechuan, _though it has been conquered and re-conquered time and again by usurping Chinese and alien races. During the period A.D. 221-265, the Chinese Empire was divided into three kingdoms, one of which, under the Emperor Liu-pei, had its capital at Chengtu. Liu-pei and three of his generals and statesmen are handed down as popular idols, and everywhere in Szechuar A SANDSTONE BRIDGE WITH CYPRESS AND BAMBOOS THE ANCIENT KINDGOM OF PA 87 2 stories are told of the doughty deeds accomplished by these heroes of old. With this brief introduction I again take up my narrative :— __ My principal men once more proved equal to the occasion, and on 8th July everything was arranged for our cross-country journey. An itinerary had been made out, and the Hsien a provided us with a couple of uniformed soldiers. (He sent six, but I managed to get them reduced to two.) Heretofore on this journey we had managed to avoid taking official escort, although it is the custom to do so in Szechuan. No ordinary _ traveller desires this honour, but it is thrust upon him and ' cannot easily be avoided. The presence of this escort renders the officials responsible for the traveller’s safety in accordance with treaty arrangements. It is necessary to pay these men a few cash, but often they prove useful in odd ways. Cash is cheap, and an extra hundred per day for each soldier does “not amount to any considerable sum. The difficulty is in _keeping the escort down totwomen. Four and six are common ij numbers, and if one did not protest continuously an almost nlimited number of authorized and unauthorized ragamuffins - would attach themselves to one’s caravan. If there is cash to be made the legitimate escort is often not above farming in a _ few extra ‘‘ hands,” thus securing more money. The escort is provided with a letter from the official supplying it wherein the “number of men dispatched and their destination is given, so by examining this it is possible to check any attempt at fraud. On dismissing these men at their journey’s end it is necessary to give them a card to carry back to their superior. Their letter is stamped by the official who provides the new escort, and the card signifies that their duty has been satisfactorily carried out. | If they return without a card for any reason or other they are _ liable to be punished. Leaving Tunghsiang Hsien by the west gate we followed | the main road to Suiting Fu for a few li, then branched off to _theright. The road is well paved, and we met plenty of traffic. For the first 20 li the road is practically level, winding in and _ out among low hills. It then makes a steep ascent to the top of some bluffs, where Mien-yueh ch’ang is situated, 30 li from the city of Tunghsiang. Throughout the rest of the day the road 88 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA was easy, leading through and among low hilltops and shallow valleys intercepted by hills 300 to 500 feet high. Cypress and Pine are abundant, so also are Pistacia and Albizzia lebbek, both making large umbrageous trees. Vitex Negundo is the commonest shrub, sometimes attaining to the dignity of a small tree : it was everywhere covered with masses of lavender-purple flowers. j The country is highly cultivated. Rice predominates, with) various kinds of beans (especially Lutou, i.e. green beans) next in importance—both crops evidently follow after wheat. We passed odd patches of cotton and very many Plum trees. The region is well populated, bypaths abound, and it no easy matter for us to keep to the right road. At one point the road bifurcates, one branch leading to Shuang-ho ch’ang, the other to Shuang-miao ch’ang, our proposed halting- for the night. The names of these two villages, when spoken rapidly, sound much alike, even to Chinese ears. My men somewhat confused, and for a time there was danger of caravan following two divergent routes. We passed through the market village of W ch’ang (ch’ang signifies market village), a curious little dominated by a temple in the middle, the roofs of the ; uniting to form a central covered way, beneath which the road passes through the village. Shuang-miao ch’ang was our intended destination for the day, but being market day the village was filled to overflowing. A hundred or more people followed us into an inn, and in a little while there was hardly room to breathe. Many were obviously under the influence of wine. It was too hot to tolerate such overcrowding curiosity, so we pushed on a further 5 li, where we happened on a decent farmhouse, which we commandeered. The owner being away, his wife was at first sorely afraid, but in a couple of hours her confidence was gained and all was well. The men had difficulty in obtaining food and lodging. The majority went back to the village, but none complained : they all realized the impossibility of my remaining the night in such a crowded place. : Our quarters were new and shaded by a grove of Bamb and Cypress, but mosquitoes were multitudinous, r ~ THE ANCIENT KINGDOM OF PA 89 life miserable. The place is called Hsin-chia-pa, alt. 1950 eet. We had covered 80 li, through a rich and interest- ng country. Lady Banks’s rose was particularly abundant, with stems 2 feet round, festooning trees 40 to 50 feet tall. Mantzu caves occur sparingly. In several places we passed cultivated patches of Panicum crus-galli, var. frumentaceum. _ We parted excellent friends with our hostess at Hsin-chia- pa, a trifling present and 400 cash made her extremely happy ; er thanks were both genuine and profuse. Soon after ting we made a precipitous ascent of 1000 feet and crossed what is probably the water-shed of the Suiting and Sanhuei Rivers. A descent led to the head-waters of a small river, where is situated the tiny market village of San-che-miao. arket was in full swing, the one short street with its few ovels being crowded with people. We passed through thout stopping to satisfy the curiosity of the crowd. At this illage several roads converge, the one we followed continuing to descend the stream, and leading through a rocky jungle- ad defile. The cliffs are of red and grey sandstone, steep, ‘ugged, and crowned with Pine and Cypress. As fluviatile rubs Distylium chinense, various Privets (Ligustrum) and s paucinervis abound. The last-named is a low-grow- ¢ shrub with spreading branches, and laden with small it corymbs of white flowers it formed a most attractive ash by the water’s edge. In the jungle-clad slopes through ich the road winds Tea bushes 15 feet and more tall are mmon. They looked uncommonly like spontaneous speci- ens, but were possibly planted long ago, though some of them ave been undoubtedly naturalized. Occasional trees of the od Bean (“ Hung-tou’’), Ormosia Hosiet, occur ; at one time s was probably a very common tree in this region. Its tim- is most valuable, and the tree has been ruthlessly felled. aere is practically no cultivation in this defile, or room for , and not a house for 20 li. _ After traversing this wild and interesting ravine for several urs we made a steep ascent to the top of the cliffs, and on = way up discovered spontaneous plants of the Tea Rose Rosa indica) in fruit. These were the first really wild specimens had met with. Once on top of the cliffs we found that —~ 7 ~ ws fm. a a a a ae eo —— a 7 s ; . go A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA the country all around is under cultivation, chiefly rice, wit houses at frequent intervals. After a few li the road descenc to the river again, and crossing by stone steps we reached tl market village of Peh-pai-ho, where we found accommodatio in a large house. This village, alt. 1600 feet, also known < Peh-pai ch’ang, is a small place with unprepossessing resident Our quarters were dark, fairly filthy, and loafers crowde around until bedtime. The day’s journey of 60 li was through a sparsely populate country, which, considering the low altitude, was unusual wild and jungle-clad. The flora had points of interest, th finding of Tea bushes and bushes of the Tea Rose in the rock defile being particularly noteworthy. On bare sandstor cliffs large white trumpet-flowered Lilies were common, their stems thrust out at nearly right angles to the | We met very few people on the road, and most of the wome we saw had natural feet. In the early morning we passed quit a lot of Panicum crus-galli, var. frumentaceum, cultivated. _ The itinerary my men secured at Tunghsiang Hsien not err on the side of accuracy. Constant inquiries necessary, but the results were confusing. The river flows past Peh-pai ch’ang was said to unite with the Chi : stream at Chiang-ling-che, 70 li distant. A heavy thunderstorm occurred in the night, | by a downpour of rain which lasted intermittently into early forenoon of the next day. The country needed badly, and the air was cool and fresh in the morning. Pe ch’ang is a regular warren of dilapidated houses, filthy stinking, with a loafing and unduly curious population. loin-cloth belonging to one of my chair-bearers was st during the night, and my followers had little that was plimentary to say about the village or its inhabitants. Following the river down-stream for 5 li, we reached kang-k’éng of the maps. This hamlet (pronounced Lei- t’an, from a fine waterfall on a small river which, from the north, joins the main stream at this point) of a deserted temple, a few scattered houses, and an old high up on the cliffs. It and Ta-chén-chai, another o fortress, are the only places marked on the map—both OINV.HO OTIVL 40 WOVTTIA LAYUVN FHI THE ANCIENT KINGDOM OF PA ox day of no importance. The market villages, the real aces of importance, are not shown. Maybe these villages have sprung up comparatively recently, and the forts, from ng-continued peace, lost their importance. This is the mly feasible explanation which occurs to me. This section | the country is only known from Chinese maps, and these ere probably compiled during military times long ago. _ From Lei-kang-k’éng a steady ascent for 30 li leads to the p of a ridge where is situated the important market village Peh-shan. This place boasts a fine temple and about a ndred houses. Like all such villages in these parts it con- sts of one central street, practically closed over by the nearly niting eaves of the houses. These market villages are a striking feature of this part of Szechuan. They are situated proximately 30 li apart, and nine markets are held monthly } each. These are arranged in such manner that the three illages lying nearest to one another hold market on different s, thus between them practically covering the month. market days the country-folk assemble from all sides to buy and sell. Pedlars and itinerant merchants constantly irney from market village to market village. Such markets are of the highest importance in a sparsely populated country, tt the denizens of these villages suffer from too much spare Market days are what they exist for, and on : the other ays are mainly spent in gambling and sloth. This system market villages dates away back to the very dawn of Chinese civilization, and in the region we are concerned with here, is very little changed from what it was in the sarliest times. Five li before reaching Peh-shan ch’ang we struck a road nich comes from Suiting Fu, 120 li distant. The country hereabouts is split up in low mountain ranges, averaging 3000 feet altitude, composed of grey and red sandstones. The river-valleys are mere ravines clothed with dense jungle, Pines, and Cypress, with no bottom lands nor cultivation of any sort. Some 500 feet up the cultivated area begins and | _ to the summit. Terraced rice fields abound, tier a tier, intercepted by low bluffs, the tops of all of which D caltivated. The whole country is very pretty, and in ss 92 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA many respects peculiar, as far as my experience goes. Most « the women have natural feet, and many were busy weedin and firming the rice plants. ’ On leaving Peh-shan ch’ang the road makes a steep descen to a stream and a correspondingly steep ascent to the top ¢ the bluffs again, winding round to the crest of a ridge wher is situated the market village of Yuen-fang. This alt. 3100 feet, which was our destination for the day, hay ing covered the allotted 60 li, is prettily situated. We fou lodgings in a new and clean house boasting a veranda looking a grove of Pine and Cypress trees. The crowd whic collected was small and though inquisitive kept at a respectfu distance. 4 The flora proved identical with that of the previous day journey. I again met with sub-spontaneous Tea bushes the jungle and also saw a number of the Red Bean tree Perhaps the most interesting objects noted during the da were the tombstones. These are very different from any have seen elsewhere. They are of freestone, often high sculptured, the workmanship being superior and the effe both artistic and dignified. One or two old stone mausolet were magnificently sculptured. The aboriginal of this region were accomplished workers in stone, and the work may have served as patterns for the Chinese to cc from. In conception the designs are evidently not put Chinese, and I strongly suspect ‘‘ Mantzu”’ influence, to 1 the Chinese term for the aboriginal population. At Fu-erh-tang there is a particularly fine family and near by a Mantzu cave in an isolated piece of Around many of the mausoleums and family temples ancie stone pillars (wei-tzu, i.e. masts) occur. Wayside shrines an small temples, dedicated to Kwanyin (Goddess of Mercy) < to the tutelary genii are common, the images being carved. : stone and mostly coloured blue and white. The day’s journe was more than usually interesting ; somehow one felt insti tively that one was traversing a region closely associated witl man from very ancient times. 4 Leaving Yuen-fang ch’ang soon after 6 a.m., we traverse country similar to that of the day before, and reached Pa THE ANCIENT KINGDOM OF PA 93 pronounced P’an)-miao ch’ang at 10 o’clock. Here, contrary o what my map indicated, I found no river. Replies to Nquiries gave it as 30 li farther on, and so it proved. The nap for this region is hopelessly inaccurate, and it was quite less attempting to be guided by it. Pai-miao ch’ang is a village built on the top of a ridge and surrounded in by woods of Cypress and Pine. Crossing an undulating ea we descended by an easy path, finally reaching the ‘ungchiang River, 10 li above Chiangkou. This river is fully oo yards broad, with red-coloured water and a sluggish urrent. Boats were easily secured and we dropped down- ream to Chiangkou, which we reached at 3 o'clock, just before eavy thunderstorm broke. The day’s journey was said to = li, the road was easy, with flora and scenery identical fith that of the preceding days Chiangkou (alt. 1600 feet) i is the second town in size and portance in the department of Pa Chou. It consists of out 500 houses, built on the fringe of a promontory between 0 rivers, backed by low, steep, well-wooded hills. The ers unite at this point and are navigable downwards to ungking. The more easterly stream descends from T’ung- ng Hsien, the westerly stream from Pa Chou, each town tant from Chiangkou 180 li. Both streams are navigable ‘small boats up-stream to these towns. A Féng Chou (official next below a Chou in rank) resides Chiangkou. From a distance the town looks well-built prosperous, but it does not improve on closer inspection. e position is admirable and undoubtedly the town is of con- rable commercial importance, yet we had great difficulty changing twenty taels of silver. Like other towns we had sed through, Chiangkou was feeling the suppression of the ium traffic severely, and until new industries arise to take : place of the opium trade the resources of all these places 1 be crippled. We found accommodation in a poor but quiet inn, and, na nks to the thunderstorm, no curious crowd gathered to mnoy us. My principal men spent several hours in finding ut a cross-country road to Yilung Hsien, and eventually acceeded. a ~e Oo tee A me Be Ee —_— 94 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA On leaving Chiangkou we ferried across the Pa Chou F and then made a steep ascent of a few hundred feet. T rest of the day we meandered along the crest of a range of lo mountains, following an undulating path. In parts the roa was good, in others ankle deep in slippery mud. Thunc¢ showers fell at intervals and it was fairly cool. The country generally is similar to that traversed du previous days. Tobacco is a rather common crop hereabe and we saw a little cotton. Maize is very rare, but rice abundantly cultivated. Shrines and small temples continue common and in good repair. Kwanyin and Tuti are common deities, the latter representing an old man al his wife, constituting the tutelary genii. Dignified, o carved tombstones and mausoleums were everywhere evidence. Our intended destination for the day was Chér ch’ang, 60 li from Chiangkou, but on reaching there we fou market in full swing, and, to avoid the crowd, we jouneyeas another 6 li. On market days these villages are it from the foreigner’s point of view. i vode though ean la in my chair, and the crowd which gathered at the upper e of the place mustered several hundreds. Wine appears to fi freely on market days and many were under its exciting fluence. Prudence as well as comfort therefore demands th one avoid all crowds as much as possible when travelling in 1 interior regions of China. Women attend these markets force and appear to be a power in this part of the Celest Empire. Their bearing and manners generally are very fi for Chinese women ; natural, unbound feet are therule. Chén-lung ch’ang is clustered on the narrow neck c sandstone ridge, and in common with all such villages be a fine village temple. We lodged for the night in a poor we side inn at Hei-tou-k’an, alt. 3100 feet. The next day was cool, with showers at odd times, but of : consequence. With the exception of one steep descent a an ascent in the late afternoon, the road was more or less le all day, traversing the tops of the low mountains. Th sandstone mountains are dissected by innumerable de narrow ravines, clothed with Pine, Cypress, and a dense juny GIRTH TALL, (ORMOSIA HOSIE]) 60 FT, REDBEAN TREE THE THE ANCIENT KINGDOM OF PA 95 f miscellaneous shrubs. Unlike limestone country no bottom- ads are formed, and cultivation is relegated to thehigher parts f the ranges. Farmhouses are scattered here, there, and verywhere, but the villages are all situated on the tops of the mountains, most frequently on the divide of a ridge. I isirteen li from Hei-tou-k’an we passed through the illage of Tai-lu ch’ang, where market was in progress and any pigs on sale. Thirty li from this place we passed Ting- an ch’ang, a village of considerable size, charmingly situated m the neck of a ridge, backed by a Chaitzu and a fine cypress c Chaitzu, of which frequent mention has been made, > a feature of these parts. They are old forts, said to have 1 mostly constructed during the great sectarian rebellion A.D. 1796-1803. A small official (Hsao-shoa-tang) resides Ting-shan ch’ang. In spite of its fine situation this village vas unusually filthy and was dominated with the strong ours of a wine distillery. The usual crowd of loafers owed us for some distance on quitting this village. In the late afternoon we arrived at Lung-peh ch’ang , 3000 feet, after travelling 74 li. We lodged ina wtotag pidated inn, fairly clean, with rooms removed some little ance from the street—the village sewer. Market not being progress the crowd of inquisitive idlers was relatively small. The flora was not particularly interesting, but we passed a mber of fine Camphor trees (Cinnamomum Camphora). The ops, however, were rich and varied. Rice and sweet ato preponderate, odd patches of cotton were noted d also others of Indigo (Strobilanthes flaccidifolius). In the noon coolies laden with salt passed us. This salt is pure ite and granular and comes from Nanpu Hsien, From our g Ting-shan ch’ang was visible, 30 li distant and nearly Recs The map ‘shows a river flowing past this village, t the only one we could get tidings of was 50 li from that ee es - q-3-2 3-2 7 “Alter a comfortable night’s rest we continued our journey ough country similar to that of foregoing days, but less yooded and more inclined to be arid, with broader ys more under cultivation. Our route followed the y between Pa Chou and Yilung Hsien. We passed pag 96 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA through two market villages and stayed for the night in farmhouse 1 li before reaching Fu-ling ch’ang, alt. 2800 fer We purposely stopped at this place in order to escape mark day at the village, but did not avoid a constant crowd un after dark, when the doors were closed. We found all the crowds quiet and orderly enough, but a continuous mass faces, with wooden expression, blocking the doorway, obstruc ing light and air, is very trying. Immensely useful as markets are to the country-side, they have decided dra from a traveller’s point of view. A good police force is more necessary in these villages than in the cities. The me lawless element fears a Hsien (Magistrate), but has little respe for a Ti-pao (Village Head-man). Local produce is mostly evidence in these markets; a few needles, aniline dy trumpery odds and ends, chiefly of Japanese origin, are abo the only foreign goods met with. We saw more cotton during the day than we had where observed on this journey, and the crop looked ing. Kao-liang (Sorghum vulgare) was a common crop, rice and sweet potato again preponderated. The and rice were bursting into ear. Wood Oil trees occur, I are not plentiful, and commercially this crop is hereabouts. Mixed with the cotton were odd plants of oil-seed yielding Sesamum indicum (“ Hsiang-yu’’). - In the late afternoon we traversed country which resembled that around Tunghsiang Hsien—on all sides, far as the eye could see, nothing but ridge upon ridge of sandstone mountains. These ranges average about 3000 in altitude, those to the east and north being higher tl those to the west and south. The map is all wrong for region, so I could not definitely place our route. The rij Sheng-to, so boldlyindicated, escaped us, though we should hi crossed it had the map been correct. The market 2 passed were smaller than heretofore, very filthy and stinki yet most charmingly situated on the neck of low ridges, a well shaded with trees. Camphor trees are very c and “Pride of India” trees (Melia Azedarach) partic abundant. The stage said to be 70 li proved very easy, weather being dull and cool. { - THE ANCIENT KINGDOM OF PA 97 } ¢ Our stay over at the farmhouse was hardly a success; we had a full crowd until bedtime, and in spite of fair promises our of my men who remained in the house with me had neither dinner nor bedding. As a punishment I paid only ialf our usual rate, much to the householder’s chagrin. Fu- ag ch’ang was quite deserted when we passed through in the early morning. It occupies the narrow neck of a sandstone ‘idge, after the usual manner of these villages. The same is ae of Shih-ya ch’ang, 30 li farther on. Ten li beyond this latter village we passed a nine-storied pagoda and sighted the town of Yilung Hsien, to the northwards, about a mile distant us the crow flies and at equal altitude (2500 feet). Yilung ‘a very small town, situated on the mountain-top, backed dy a steep bluff and surrounded by a wall of dressed sandstone. [wo-thirds of the land enclosed within the city wall is given ver to cultivation. We passed to the south-west of the town a road which makes a steep descent and ascent and then meanders along the tops of the mountains until Tu-mén-pu eached. The mountains are lower, more flat, the valleys Jer, and the whole country more treeless. Cotton is abun- atly cultivated throughout this region, and it is evident at the district of Yilung produces a very considerable quan- y. Rice and sweet potato are the common crops, the ter thriving on the hot almost soilless rocks. The earth is rawn into ridges, often leaving bare rock between, and cuttings inserted, These cuttings, leafy shoots about 6 inches long, uickly take root and form plants that produce an abundant ». Sorghum is fairly common in places, but maize is very e. Stone monuments were less in evidence, but we passed fine O-mi-to Fu stone surmounted by a hideous T’eng-kou. ix old hats protected this stone from the rain and sun; in ront was a huge mass of ashes and the remains of many Oss sticks. We were informed that the tutelary genius of his spot is renowned for his benevolence, and that it was ved shortly to erect a shrine over the spot. | We had been unfortunate in the matter of market days all long, and found another in progress at Tu-mén-pu. Seemingly faving gained nothing by staying the night a little beyond or ‘fore reaching these villages, we experimented and stayed at = VoL. 1.—7 98 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA one. It wasnotasuccess. A mob rushed our inn and bec reigned for a couple of hours. Eventually it thinned ¢ but many of the more insistent and curious remained 1 bedtime. There was much noise, but the crowd was frier enough; nevertheless, I was glad it proved to be the market village of its kind we encountered before Chengtu. Tu-mén-pu or ch’ang, alt. 1950 feet, 70 li from Fu-lis ch’ang, is a large and prosperous village boasting much t on market-days. Something of everything in the way of nati produce was on sale, and the narrow street was thronged overflowing. Five li before reaching this place our road co verged with one leading to Pa Chou city by way of Yilu Hsien. I had a poor night’s sleep in consequence of loud talk being carried on far into the early hours, a woman (as ust being the principal offender. This was an emphatic remin of the hubbub of the crowd which besieged us on arrival 4 I was really glad to quit Tu-mén-pu. A few li beyond village we branched off from the main road, which goes Nanpu Hsien. Much salt comes from this an during the last two or three days we had met many c: laden with this commodity. j Forty li beyond Tu-mén-pu we passed the poor village Shui-kuan-ying, protected by dilapidated gates which den its former military character. In years gone by it was barrier of some considerable importance. Twenty li fartl on we reached the village of Chin-ya ch’ang, alt. 2150 fi which differs from all we had met with heretofore in havin broad main street fully exposed to the heavens. To our gt joy market was not in progress. We found lodgings in ar and quiet inn, which proved a welcome change; the p too, were courteous and much less inquisitive. The day exceptionally hot, and all were glad to reach the end of allotted stage of 60 li. Twelve li before reaching Chi in ch’ang we struck a main road leading from Nanpu Hs and following it entered the village through an isolated ort gateway. Beyond the village is a bluff of grey sands studded with square-mouthed caves. These caves are cr THE ANCIENT KINGDOM OF PA 99 imitations of Mantzu caves, and are of recent origin, and purely Chinese. _ The day’s journey was through less interesting country th an usual. The broad valleys and nearly treeless mountains are all under cultivation. Cotton was again common in the fore noon, but much less so afterwards. This crop looked as flourishing as Chinese cotton usually does. Tobacco is spar- agly cultivated. The tobacco leaves are merelysun-dried before using, and the quality is therefore poor. Sweet potato was aore plentiful than ever ; the arid sandstone rocks evidently Suit this crop. Rice was, of course, everywhere abundant, oxrghum common, but maize was very scarce and suffering ‘om drought. The Irish potato is very little cultivated in hese parts. Around Tu-mén-pu white-wax is produced in mall quantities on the Privet (Ligustrum lucidum), but the ultivation is slovenly carried out, the trees being dwarf and l-cared for. A few Cypress trees were noted, but Paulownia }a common tree, and Wood Oil trees rather plentiful. A little Ik is raised, but the industry is unimportant hereabouts. dd trees of the Banyan (Ficus infectoria) occur near houses d shrines. We passed a few fine tombs, but the average dstone is less ornate than those formerly met with. j “We experienced a brief but terrific thunderstorm during e early hours of the morning, and rain continued to fall Slightly when we set out from Chin-ya ch’ang. For 20 li followed an abominable road of mud. This was very easy, and caused many of us to come “ croppers.’”’ Ultim- aly, we reached a paved road, and, 6 li farther, a tributary eam of the Kialing River. This tributary is broad, broken by cataracts and rapids, and quite unnavigable at this point. It unites with the Kialing River, locally known as the “‘ Paoning Ho,” at Ho-che kuan. This is a small riverine port boasting a markably fine shop where coal, lime, and especially Chinese WWine (sam-shu), were on sale. On the paved road we met weral men carrying Bombay cotton yarn—the first example foreign goods we had encountered on the whole journey ! _ At Ho-che kuan the Kialing River is smooth and placid, vand when in flood is fully 400 yards broad. We ferried across ‘the river to the right bank, and then traversed an alluvial flat eas eel 100 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA of considerable size, highly cultivated with rice and sorghu with here and there a little abutilon hemp. At the head ¢ this flat, some ro li from the river, we crossed over sor levelled hillocks into a basin—evidently an old lake bec surrounded by bare mountains 200 to 500 feet high. depression was a lake of luxuriant padi (rice), with houses h and there, nestling in clumps of trees. From this basin w through a low, narrow gap between the hills, and came abruptly to the Paoning River a little below the city itself. W were ferried across and found lodgings in a large and fairly com fortable inn. The flora of the day’s journey was without spec interest, Cypress being the only kind of tree really commot But shading some graves, opposite Ho-che kuan, occurs t largest specimen of the “ Pride of India” (Melia Azedarach) have met with. This tree is 70 feet tall, and 10 feet in girth. Paoning Fu is a city of past rather than of present great ness. It is still a most important administrative centre, but it generalissimo of forces had a palace here. The terrible Chang Hien-tsung (A.D. 1630-46 circa), ravaged the cow roundabout, but spared the city itself. The result is thi many of the official residences and temples date back 1 ancient times. | Z Formerly Paoning was the centre of a lucrative and thriv silk industry, but this has steadily declined during the | twenty years, and to-day it is a mere figment in comparisot Attempts are now being made by the officials to rejuver and foster this industry, which apparently failed more throu lack of business ability and tenacity than anything else. C the neighbouring hills I was told “ wild silk” is produced, th “ worms” feeding on the leaves of a scrub Oak, “‘ Ching-kang (Quercus serrata). F The city occupies an extensive alluvial flat on the left ban of the river within an amphitheatre of low, bare, often f yt midal, hills, 300 to 600 feet high. Viewed from the oppc bank there are no outstanding architectural features visib save a pavilion, which is practically the only building breakin PAONING FU OPPOSITE KUAN, NAN-CHING THE ANCIENT KINGDOM OF PA IoL he monotony of level roofs. The area within the city walls is largely occupied by yaméns, temples, and residences of the 10re wealthy. Business is mostly carried on outside the city proper, and is confined mainly to one street. Umbrellas were the most noticeable articles on sale, but the city is famous for it superior vinegar, great jars of which were on view. _ Hedges of the thorny shrub, Citrus trifoliata, are a prominent feature of this city and its suburbs, giving to the aieter streets a country-lane-like appearance. The water ipply of the city is from wells, which are often very deep. this water is said to be good, but that supplied to our inn da very “earthy” flavour. From what I saw of the ty during a day’s stay there, I received the impression of s being clean, its people very orderly and courteous, and the decline in its prosperity most marked. The Paoning Ho is 4 shallow river, and opposite the city about 500 yards broad when in flood. It is navigable for boats of considerable size wnwards to Chungking. Up-stream small boats ascend -Kuangyuan Hsien. A certain amount of merchandise nds in small boats from Pikou, in Kansu, to Chaohua jen. These rivers are most important to Paoning Fu, for, dition to export trade, the coal and wood used i in the city eli ‘are conveyed over these waterways. On the nght bank ng the city is a ledge of cliff, on which nestle several mples and pavilions, sheltered by groves of Cypress. In a ) in this cliff is situated the busy little village of Nan-ching n, Timber is very scarce around Paoning. Cypress wood commonly used in house-building; Alder wood (Alnus stogyne) occasionally being employed for window frames, , but its chief use is as fuel. Pine occurs, but, save as fuel, : Cunninghamia, that most useful of Chinese s, does not occur in this neighbourhood. The wood Pitang-tou tree (Ormosia Hosiet), so highly esteemed for Racy, was formerly fairly common and cheap. To-day, ¢ ever: it has to be brought from a distance, and, in con- uence, is expensive. Oak and “ Huang-lien”’ (Pistacia Is) are the only other timber trees of note. Paoning is 2 important missionary centre, and the seat of a Protestant 1opric. During my brief visit I had the pleasure of es ee ae ae a oe a ae a | . 4 _— at 102 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA spending a few hours with the kindly and energetic Bis Cassels and certain of his coadjutors, who did all they ce to render my stay pleasant. Leaving Paoning Fu and following the main road v Tungchuan Fu, by easy stages I entered the city of Gane nine days later, having occupied fifty-four days on the jou from Ichang. . The journey from Tunghsiang Hsien to Paoning Fu fe bore out my expectations. The crowds on market-days wer decided drawback, but not once was I insulted or called (in hearing) uncomplimentary names. The avaricious greed cunning of the inhabitants were most marked. They constantly putting up the prices of food-stuffs on my folle which led to much argument and high words, and seve times I was called upon to settle such disputes. The gree of the Szechuanese peasant and small shopkeeper is a b among the Chinese of other provinces. The term “ nv Lao-ssu’’ (‘‘ Szechuan Rat’’) is applied derisively to whole population by the Chinese from other provine Niggardly and avaricious they undoubtedly are, but the are great agriculturists, and the question of the “ mo and beam” may well be left open. As mentioned be ; the province is largely peopled by descendants of immigra: and these folk almost invariably style themselves men ee provinces their ancestors came from ! The outstanding features of this ancient part of Szeck are :— 1. The elaborate system of market villages situated equal distances of 30 li apart, each with its nine market-c per month, and alternating with the markets of neighbourt villages. Each village is situated on the mountain-top a usually on the neck of a divide, with one central more or ) covered street. 3 2. The rice belt is confined to the mountain slopes a summits, the valleys being ravines, jungle-clad as a rule, w little or no cultivatable bottom-lands. The highly cultivat nature of the region and the presence of cotton in quan around Yilung Hsien. 3 3. The numerous fine mausoleums with remmckabigll z( THE ANCIENT KINGDOM OF PA 103 ring ; the peculiar, dignified style of headstones and ural monuments generally. The number of wayside shrines nd deities all in excellent repair. _ 4. The independent bearing and buxom appearance of the omen, and their evident influence in general market business. hroughout the whole region natural, unbound feet are the rule. _ 5. The region is far from being thickly populated, and nnot be termed wealthy, but apparently it is largely self- ontained and self-sufficient. 6. The intense curiosity of the people due to the fact that w had ever seen a foreigner before. CHAPTER IX THE CHENGTU PLAIN ‘Tue GARDEN OF WESTERN CHINA” Ts plain of Chengtu is the only large expanse of leve ground in the great province of Szechuan ; it is als one of the richest, most fertile, and thickly populates areas in the whole of China. Its extreme length from Chiar kou in the south to Hsao-shui Ho beyond Mienchu Hsien it the north, is about 80 miles as the crow flies; its extrem width from Chao-chia-tu in the east to Kuan Hsien in th west, about 65 miles, in a straight line. From Kiung Chou : the extreme south-west to its north-east limits beyond Teyas Hsien is about 80 miles. The circumferential boundaries very irregular, the total area being under 3500 square miles Chengtu Fu, the provincial capital, and seventeen other walle: cities, are situated on this plain, together with very many ur walled towns of large size. Farmhouses dot the plain i every direction; the total population probably 6,000,000. q This plain is really part basin part sloping alluvial delta having an elevation ranging from about 1500 feet above se: level in the south and east to 2300 feet in the north-west a: west. It is bounded to the west and north-west by the stee descent of a high mountainous region, which at very littl distance from it reaches above the snowline. In the extrem north-west the snowclad Chiuting shan actually overlooks h plain. On its other boundaries the sandstone hills of th Red Basin rise sharply in bluffs 1000 to 1500 feet above thi level of the plain. The high barrier ranges protect the plat from the cold northerly and westerly winds, but to me must be ascribed the rapid changes in temperature, the 104 THE CHENGTU PLAIN 105 raw atmosphere, and the overcast skies so characteristic of hengtu Fu. The plain owes its abundant fertility to a complete and . ellous system of irrigation, inaugurated some 2100 years ago by a Chinese official named Li-ping and his son. The sadquarters of this irrigation system is Kuan Hsien, a city tuated on the extreme western edge of the plain, where the in River debouches from the mountains. The principle on hich the system is based is simple in conception, but very intricate in detail. An obstructing hill called Li-tiu shan as first cut through for the purpose of leading the waters rough and distributing them over the plain. The passage ving been excavated, the waters of the Min River were ided, by means of an inverted V-shaped dyke, a little dis- ance above the canal into two main streams, the ‘‘ South” d “‘ North”’ Rivers, as they are called. The waters of the “North ”’ stream are carried through the Li-tiu shan cut, and aiter passing through the city of Kuan Hsien are divided into principal streams. The most southerly of the three, “ The Walking Horse,’’ flows directly east, and irrigates P tistricts of Pi Hsien and Chengtu. The central stream, alled the ‘‘Cedar Stem River,’”’ flows north-east, and is ilized to irrigate the western and northern parts of the above-named districts. Branches of these two streams flow dast the south and north walls of Chengtu, uniting near the ast gate of the city. The third, or northern branch, known % “South Rush River,” flows north towards the city of ?éng Hsien, and then south-eastwards past Han Chou. All Se bdivisions of this branch and its anastomosing canals id ditches unite near Chao-chia-tu to form the head-waters of ? To River, which flows due south past the famous salt- Ils of Tzu-liu-ching, and finally enters the Yangtsze at _Chou. This “ South Rush River” is fed by numerous rents which descend from the ranges bounding the north- yest edge of the plain. These streams—broad, stony, irre- sponsible things with no defined banks—exist only during i ms or the melting of the snow in spring. In crossing the a n parts of the plain the traveller can form some estimate what the whole was like before the irrigation canals were 106 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA dug and dikes erected. But to return to the system at Ku Hsien. The ‘‘ South” River, which occupies the original t of the Min River, is divided into four principal streams almos' immediately opposite the Li-tiu Hill. The most eas branch, named the “ Peaceful River,”’ irrigates the dis of Kuan Hsien, Pi Hsien, and Shuangliu Hsien. The r branch, called the “‘ Sheep Horse River,” irrigates other p of the above-named districts, uniting with the “ Peacefi River,” at Hsinhsin Hsien. The third stream, called “ Blacl Stone River,” irrigates the department of Chungching Chot and unites with the other streams at Hsinhsin Hsien. fourth stream, called ‘‘ Sand Ditch,” flows south-west thre Tayi Hsien and Kiung Chou, joining the other streams a Hsinhsin Hsien. All the streams which intersect the Chen Plain, save those forming the upper waters of the To Ri unite at Chiangkou, a village at the extreme south-eastern of the plain, some 45 English miles south of Chengtu city. This system of anastomosing canals, ditches, artificial a1 natural streams, forms a complex yet perfect network. current in all is steady and swift, the bunding secure, floods unknown. Not only are all these streams and c; available for irrigation, but they are also utilized to gener power required in various industries. Flour-mills aboun driven by vertical or horizontally fixed water-wheels. Simi mills are used for crushing Chinese rape-seed, preparatory ¢ pressing for the extraction of the oil. :. It must not be supposed that Li-ping and his son comp te the system which obtains to-day. They were the originator and the lines they laid down have been followed and enlar, upon by succeeding generations. These famous irrig works are perhaps the only public works in all China that kept in constant and thorough repair. Every year the bund: is repaired and all silt removed from the bed of the channe An official styled Shui-li Fu—‘ Prefect of Water-Ways ™ residing at Chengtu, has charge of the system. In late wint the water is diverted at Kuan Hsien from the “ North” Riv to admit of the removing of silt, etc. In the early spr in conducted with much pomp, there is an annual y< turning on the waters. The motto of Li-ping, “‘ Shen tao t’ai THE DIVIDED WATERS AND BRIDGE (AN-LAN ( HIAO) 250 YDS. LONG i | CHANNEL CUT THROUGH THE LI-TIU SHAN BY LI-PING THE CHENGTU PLAIN 107 ti tso yen”’ (Dig the bed deep, keep the banks low), has become an established law in these parts, and is rigorously carried inte lect. Amidst so much that is decaying and corrupt in China is refreshing to find an old institution maintaining its standard of excellence and usefulness through century after century. The originators of this work have been deified, and two nagnificent temples overlooking their work at Kuan Hsien bear fitness to the gratitude of the millions who have enjoyed, and mtinue to enjoy, prosperity from the labours of the famous ping and his son. The “ hero-worship’”’ here exemplified ould do credit to the people of any land. ' The larger of the two temples merits some description. -is by far the finest example I have seen in my travels, and is tobably not excelled by any temple in all China. It nestles a grove of fine trees, facing the river on the side of a hill, i broad flights of steps leading from terrace to terrace. The uldings are of wood, finely carved and lacquered. The court- rds of stone are broad and spacious, with ornaments in onze and iron of old and unique workmanship. There are ures representing Li-ping, his wife and son, also many finely Ided and inscribed votive boards, gifts of a long line of ecceeding emperors, viceroys, gentry, and guilds. Not a d is allowed to grow, the whole place being kept scrupulously in by the Taouist priests in charge. In the courtyards are interesting trees and shrubs, trained in Chinese manner ith consummate skill. Two magnificent specimens of the e Myrtle (Lagerstremia indica), trained into the shape of a some 25 feet high by 12 feet wide, and said to be over 0 years old, are finer than anything of the kind I have n elsewhere. "The whole of the plain is subdivided into small fields, every d or series of fields having its own level, differing (sometimes nly by one or two inches) from that of its neighbours. This Tangement necessitates a complicated code of regulations, hich, sanctioned by custom and usage, determines the pro- portions in which the water of any one canal is distributed into | . Eeranches, and the order of succession in which proprietors of different fields are allowed to make use of it. The system q s been so far perfected that each rice field receives, exactly Ire ee BS Php i ae nee ed 5 skal eae rs 3y 108 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA at the right time, a sufficient supply of running water. complete is the whole arrangement that scarcity, much famine, is practically unknown on the Chengtu Plain. There are no extremes of climate in this region. In summi the temperature seldom reaches 100° F., in the shade ; in wint it seldom falls below 35° F. It is humid at all — ’ essentially cloudy, more especially in winter, when the s rarely seen, owing to banks of mists. The land is always ur cultivation, yielding two main crops that ripen in April May, and August or September respectively. Catch CTOps obtained between these two main harvests. Rice is the chi summer crop, but certain districts produce millet, sugar, puls Indigo (Strobilanthes flaccidifolius), and tobacco in quantit Pi Hsien being noted in particular for the latter crop. z and Chinese rape are the chief winter crops with Broadbear (Vicia Faba), peas, barley, and Hemp (Cannabis common in certain districts. Wén-chiang Hsien is famous f its hemp, which is grown in quantity as a winter crop al exported largely to other parts of Szechuan and down rive This product, known colloquially as “‘ Huo-ma,” has t wrongly identified by many travellers. As summer cre Ramie or ‘“‘ Hsien-ma ” (Bahmeria nivea) and Abutilon I or “‘ Tuen-ma’”’ (Abutilon Avicenna) are both cultivated r or less in quantity. The only Jute or ‘“‘ Huang-ma ”’ (Core capsularis) I ever saw was in July Ig10, growing near chia-tu. In the northern parts of the plain, Mienchu Teyang Hsiens, a little cotton is raised, but commercially t crop is unimportant. Opium was never cultivated in quant on the plain. All the Chinese vegetables and culinary oil-producing pl: are cultivated in quantity in the Chengtu Plain, and thi general excellence is not excelled elsewhere. To enumer them it would be necessary to give a complete list of such p cultivated in all but the coldest parts of China. This enume a tion is reserved for a subsequent chapter. . A striking feature of the plain is the enormous number , large houses and farmsteads dotted here, there, and everywhere and shaded by groves of Bamboo, Nanmu, and Cypress. T. frequency of these houses, with their enveloping groves, gives x THE CHENGTU PLAIN 109 well-wooded appearance to the entire region, and the general is broken up in such a manner that from no point can Q any miles of the plain be seen at one time. | The variety of trees is very great; fully fifty species could ily be enumerated. Alongside the streams and ditches, “Ching-mu’”’ (Alnus cremastogyne) abounds, and forms } bof the principal sources of fuel. In the more northern parts the plain the curious Camptotheca acuminata, with clean unk, grey bark, and globose heads of small white flowers, isplaces the Alder. Around the houses Bamboo, Oak, “Pride of dia,’’ Soap trees (Gleditsia), Cypress, and Nanmu are the com- on ost trees. The Nanmu is a special feature around temples. veral species of the genus Machilus are called Nanmu, all igreeing in being stately, tall, umbrageous evergreens. The yood they yield is highly valued, and the trees are particularly andsome. The Banyan tree, so abundant a little farther Outh, is very rare here, and neither Pine nor Chinese Fir Cunninghamia) are common. Occasionally trees of the Red an (Ormosia Hosiet) occur, always, however, in temple-yards hading wayside shrines. The great industry of Chengtu is sericulture, consequently Mulberry trees abound, and ania tricuspidata (Tsa shu), the leaves of which are also d for feeding silkworms, is likewise fairly common. “In such a highly cultivated area the natural flora has, of e, been destroyed. The few indigenous shrubs and herbs at remain are relegated to the sides of streams and grave- ds. In places the Chinese Pampas Grass (Miscanthus ensis and M. latifolius) is common; in autumn the fawn- Oloured plumes are most attractive. Occasionally thorny hre bs like Barberry, Christ’s thorn, colloquially “ Teh-li- 9% kuo-tzu” (Paliurus ramosissimus), and “San-chia pi” Ac Bnthopanax aculeatum) are used as hedge plants. The 01 — fence, however, is made by bending down and nte x the bamboo-culms. Since the plain is strewn with cities, villages, and farm- e ds, a network of roadways necessarily obtains. A main ery extends north-north-east, through the plain and beyond hensi province, and ultimately reaches far-distant Peking. road was commenced from the Shensi end by the great = S22 > aie ee we ee 110 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA Shih Hwang-ti (he who commenced building the Great W. about 220 B.c. It extends from Chengtu in a south-westerly direction to Kiung Chou, and thence to remote Lhassa. Othe highways connect the provincial capital. with Chungkiny the great mart on the Yangtsze River to the south-east ; Kuat Hsien in the west, and the Marches of the Mantzu beyon Roads of secondary importance link these highways wi other roads and connect the capital with all the princi cities of the plain and regions beyond. Most of the roads originally paved with one or two slabs of stone laid length down the middle, with bare earth on either side. The cor wheel-barrow traffic, a feature of the entire region, has deep grooves into these slabs. All too frequently the have disappeared altogether, leaving unpaved long stretch of roadway. In dry weather these roads are dusty, but ea: to travel ; in wet weather they are from ankle to knee-< in sheer mud. Often they are practically impassable, travelling over them in ordinary rainy weather is an experi beyond words to describe. They illustrate admirably t contrariety of things which obtain in China generally. FE in the wealthiest region of the west, if not of the whole « China, the average road is of the meanest width, and in abominable state of repair. There is much talk of the nee of railways in China,—true, they are needed badly, but goo highways, roads, are an infinitely greater want. The highw; and byways on the Chengtu Plain are a disgrace to the enti population of this fertile, wealthy region. ‘‘ What is ever body’s business is nobody’s business’ is a saying that is applicable in China as in Western lands. The roads exist f the good and welfare of all, but it is nobody’s real busir a4 protect them ; they are, in consequence, neglected by a peasants, farmers, officials, and gentry alike. 3 Mean as these roadways are, they are spanned by hundr of large honorary portals and memorial arches, mostly e structed of red, or more rarely grey, sandstone, or occasion: of wood. In the vicinity of the more wealthy cities ‘H Chou, for example) these portals and arches are extraordinar abundant. Many are masterpieces of Chinese architect All are well built and covered with sculptures in reheta VIEW IN THE MANCHU SECTION OF CHENGTU CITY } Ty Hil wr we om uy iw is THE VILLAGE TEMPLE, KUNG-CHING CH’ANG THE CHENGTU PLAIN III : ‘oe & } senting scenes of mythical or everyday life. The ends of 5 edge pole and the gable eaves are usually long drawn out ' d revolutely upturned, adding additional lightness and e% ty to the whole. These long, exaggerated, upturned 7 es are a characteristic feature of the houses, temples, and rines met with all over this region. _ The innumerable ditches, canals, and streams are all well idged. ‘The bridges are kept in good repair, and reflect the shest credit on the engineers who constructed them. They > built of red or grey sandstone, more rarely of wood, as near an Chou. The stone bridges vary from one to a dozen or more arches, sometimes hog-backed, but more usually the Roman Arch’”’ is employed; others are of causeway or estle design, with or without balustrades, ranging from a ple slab laid across a narrow ditch to many such laid on eries of piers built in the bed of the streams. Near Sintu jen there is an example of one of these trestle or pier- ridges 120 yards long. Outside the east gate of Chengtu is a .d-sandstone bridge of nine arches, which is generally regarded the bridge mentioned by Marco Polo. A similar bridge ists near Yao-chia-tu, but this has some twenty arches. Im- diately outside Han Chou there is a covered wooden bridge, 9 yards long, 6 yards broad, resting on eight stone piers. is bridge, known as the Chin-ying chiao (Bridge of the Golden se), is the handsomest, most ornate wooden structure of Ekin I have met with in my travels. In reference to the bunding of the streams and canals it uld $. be mentioned that cobble-stones enclosed within long haped, bamboo-latticed crates are universally em- oye ec & fos this purpose. This system is said to date back e later times of the Ming dynasty only. Previous to that riod the principal abutments and revetments were of iron, shioned into the shape of gigantic oxen, turtles, pillars, ete. he places where canals unite or divide, or where the water des to a lower level, the earthworks are protected by walls st ones firmly cemented together. Another item, and one which astonishes every traveller, the enormous size of the blocks of stone used in the bridges, 2 especially those erected on piers.. I have no exact Poe a? i ow i. a on? - a om ab 112 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA measurements by me, but these slabs would average at le: 12 yards long by 20 inches square at the ends. Common the blocks are of hard limestone, occasionally of conglomerat The slabs of sandstone when used are shorter. At Cha chia-tu sandstone slabs are used as fencing. Any attempt to describe the cities on the Chengtu F would necessitate more space than is at my disposal. Th differ, with the exception of the provincial capital, in no mark particular from other cities of Szechuan. In size they considerably, some of the large unwalled towns being cot mercially more important than the walled cities. Most the cities and surrounding districts are noted for cert things ; for example, Mienchu Hsien for its wheaten flour a paper, P’i Hsien for tobacco, Wén-chiang Hsien for he P’éng Hsien for indigo, Shuangliu Hsien for straw-braid, and on. The majority of these cities are very ancient ; all conta fine temples, as becomes such centres of wealth. Chen; (long. 104° 2’ E., lat. 30° 38’ N.) was described by Polo, who visited it during the thirteenth century, as a “ and noble city.” Modern travellers, and their name is we nigh legion, have all agreed with the great Venetian’s dict In many respects Chengtu, with its population of 350,06 people, is probably the finest city in the whole of China. — is built on a totally different plan from that of Peking, even Canton, so that comparisons are difficult. The prese city of Chengtu is comparatively modern, but occupies mt the same site as the capital of the aboriginal kingdom of Sh This kingdom was conquered by Shih Hwang-ti (the “ Fiz Emperor ’’) some time between 221-209 B.c., who nomin: . added it to his dominions. The succeeding dynasty &@ (206 B.c. to A.D. 25) incorporated it as an integral p China. During the epoch of the Three Kingdoms the site ( thereabouts) of the city was occupied as the capital of t kingdom under Liu-pei. Succeeding dynasties have made it a most important seat of administration, and f of the imperial clan or viceroys have resided there. still the seat of a Viceroy who governs the province of Szechu: and nominally controls all Thibetan affairs. a Great Britain, France, and Germany have each establish THE CHENGTU PLAIN 113 -Consulate-General there, but on the plea that the city is ot an ‘‘ open port,” the Chinese have successfully resisted he purchase of land on which to erect suitable houses and ffices for the staffs representing these Powers. The result is hat these officers are housed in dilapidated Chinese quarters, sanitary, dangerous to health, and unbecoming the dignity f the Powers they represent. It is nothing short of a scandal ) thrust men into such abominable quarters. Chengtu Fu is w removed from London, Paris, and Berlin, also from Peking, ut is it fitting to make backwoodsmen of these repre- sntatives? Missionaries of every denomination are firmly trenched at Chengtu, and can acquire all the property ir funds admit of either for residences, hospitals, schools, r churches. - The city is surrounded by a magnificent wall, some g miles icircumference, with eight bastions, pierced by four fine gates. his wall is 66 feet broad at base, 35 feet high, and 40 feet broad top, along which runs a crenulated balustrade. It is faced ad paved with hard brick (the walls of all the other cities on le plain are of sandstone), and is kept in thorough repair. ing Manchu times a Tartar garrison was stationed here, ences, private and official, temples, a large parade ground, The city is clean and orderly, with an efficient police. To nder through the streets noting the varied industries carried 1 is a liberal education in Chinese ways of doing things. he wares on sale are of infinite variety, and are themselves ic tive of the wealth which is everywhere apparent. The p-signs, lacquered and gilded, hang vertically downwards, proclaim i in their large artistic characters the titles of the jops and the wares on sale. The city is full of officials, both -and out of office, who move about the streets in sedan-chairs ied at a great speed. The chairs are peculiar in having long poles curved, with the body of the chair resting on ) of the curve. When carried, such a chair is well above e e heads of the crowd. The streets are always crowded ith pedestrians, chairs, and wheel-barrows. Different trades cupy their own particular quarter. Certain streets are VOL. 1.—8 114 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA devoted to carpentry in all its branches, boot-shops, devoted to hornware, skins and furs, embroideries, secon¢ clothes shops, silk goods, foreign goods, and so forth. weaving is the great industry in Chengtu, hundreds of le being in use. , Evidences of Occidental influence abound. A provi university and many schools for imparting Western lear exist. Two agricultural experimental farms, an arsenal, mi bazaar, and many buildings of semi-foreign design. The a and farms are outside the city. An electric lighting plant w operating at the time of my last visit (1910), and the instal! of a telephone service was in progress. Imperial P is strongly established here under control of Europeans, @ this is the only Western innovation really accomplishing g' work. The others (and I have not covered them all) - experiments pure and simple. These are controlled | They have no real idea of what they want, and there is co-ordination in any matter. The students rule the colleg their fathers, the gentry, rule the province. ‘‘ China for Chinese,” and “away with all foreigners and foreign influer is their slogan. This cry is perfectly legitimate, but they .C move slowly. They think they are fully fledged men, whe they are mere babes in the knowledge of the things they co so much. The unfortunate Rebellion which has spread ¥ such rapidity and brought about so much disaster to the nati originated with the hot-heads of Chengtu. Primarily it” aimed not so muchagainst the dynasty as against foreign cap The Central Government had agreed to a foreign loan, wl amongst other things, had for its object the construction | railway from Hankow to Chungking. It was this loan tha the fat in the fire which produced the conflagration—the ARCH A MEMORIAL THE CHENGTU PLAIN 115 aw, if you will, but the primary cause of the Rebellion. The lynasty has been dethroned (it was effete, anyway, and hould have passed fifty years ago), a dictatorship under the wise of a republic cleverly formed by the only man who can a e China from anarchy if not disruption—Yuan-shih-kai. but prorcign loans have become more absolutely necessary than ver before. The present system of government can only be fansient, another dynasty must arise. I mentioned above hat the province was under a viceroy, and that the gentry led the province. This is the keynote to the whole difficulty. e Viceroy had to carry out the instructions of the Imperial overnment at Peking ; he had also to please the gentry. The fishes of the two powers became diametrically opposed, and t all the tact of the cleverest diplomats could save the situa- n. The Viceroy (Chao Erh-hsiin) was removed to Manchuria, d his brother (Chao Erh-féng), recalled from the Thibetan hes (where China’s new toy, in the shape of an army odelled on quasi-Western lines, had been indulging in an ogether uncalled-for war of aggression), appointed to the st. The new Viceroy arrived too late to check the revolt, md was ultimately murdered. The gentry have declared lat no foreign capital, and the necessary foreign supervision [ such capital, shall enter into the construction of a railway Szechuan. With Chinese money and Chinese engineers the me shall be accomplished, say these autocrats. The Cen- 1 Government thought otherwise and made other arrange- nts. Then came the revolt, fulminated by the gentry of ; : Chengtu Plain, which speedily got beyond their control, Bebere it will really end is beyond prophecy. The Manchu asty, when it ascended the Dragon throne in A.D. 1644, amediately set to work and rescued Szechuan from the bloody p of the rebel and arch-destroyer, Chang Hien-tsung, and : roug ht peace to the land. Two hundred and sixty-seven rs later this dynasty has been dethroned by rebellion lated by the gentry of the Chengtu Plain. - Dynasties and publics may come and go, but in the future, as in the past, oh combined with agricultural skill, will continue to win st penance, derive wealth, influence, and power from this e and beautiful region—the Garden of Western China. ae ) iste ae ae CHAPTER X NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN NARRATIVE OF A CROSS-MOUNTAIN JOURNEY TO SUNGPAN TING mined upon a journey to the border-town of Sungpai Ting, for the express purpose of securing seeds am herbarium specimens of certain new coniferous trees previoush discovered by me in that region. During 1903 and again i 1904 I had visited this interesting town. On the first occasio I travelled by the ordinary main road, via Kuan Hsien and th Min Valley. The next year I followed the great north roa across the Plain of Chengtu to Mien Chou, then travelled vi Chungpa and Lungan Fu, by another recognized highway On these journeys I gleaned tidings of a by-road leading fron Shihch’uan Hsien across the mountains, finally connectin, with both the above routes. This route promised to b interesting as well as novel. Only Roman Catholic missionarie had previously traversed it, so far as I could learn. An Hsiet was selected as the real starting-point for this trip. | With this object in view we passed through the north gat of Chengtu city early ‘on the morning of 8th August. Follow ing the north road as far as the city of Han Chou, then branch ing off and travelling via Shihfang Hsien and Mienchu Hsien we reached the city of An Hsien, some 300 li from Chengtu after three and a half days. The road led us right thr the luxuriant Chengtu Plain to its extreme north-western li near Hsao-shui Ho. Afterwards we crossed some low foot to a small stream leading to An Hsien. The journey was easy, though fatiguing owing to the extreme heat of the The city of An Hsien is small, of little importance, 116 \ FEW days after our arrival at Chengtu in 1910 I deter NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 117 Pete Oe situated on the left bank of a stream backed by bare mountains which rear themselves some 2000 feet above the level of the river. Two streams uniting here form a river navigable during high-water season to Mien Chou, a city on the Fou Ho—the ‘western branch of the Kialing River system. An Hsien is a e beyond the north-western limits of the Chengtu Plain, and ts river gives it direct communication with Chungking, during he summer at least. _ Leaving by the north gate, we took a road that ascends the main branch of the river which is kept from flooding the ‘city by a well-made low bund of stone slabs, firmly cemented ogether. After traversing a small cultivated valley we plunged o a rocky defile and crossed the river by an iron suspension ‘bridge, 110 yards long. This bridge is old and in poor repair, ‘and it swayed considerably as we walked singly across. A few iles farther on we recrossed the stream by a similar bridge, nd reached Lei-ku-ping, our destination for the day, at | p.m. A certain amount of rice is cultivated hereabouts, at maize is the staple crop. As an under-crop to maize, Amorphophallus konjac (“ Mo-yu”’) is commonly cultivated, the tubers being used as food after their acrid properties have ‘Deen removed by washing in water. We met considerable fic, mostly coolies laden with sheep-skins and medicines mm Sungpan, which they put on boats at An Hsien for con- yance to Chungking; much potash (lye) in small tubs, d oil-cakes consisting of the residue of Chinese rape-seed er the oil is expressed. Coal of very poor quality, mostly lust, is obtained in the surrounding mountains, and we met Scores of mules, ponies, and coolies engaged in transporting it. _ Lei-ku-ping, alt. 2750 feet, is a large market village, pos- sessing One principal street with gates at each end, which are ce psed after sunset. The centre of a large and important adustry in tea, Lei-ku-ping largely supplies Sungpan Ting ithe country beyond. The tea is grown in the surrounding icts and brought to the village for sale. Later we shall ‘flave more to say concerning this industry. It rained heavily during the early hours of the morning, and th ugh it was fair when we set out, showers fell the whole fore- m. On leaving Lei-ku-ping we ascended a few hundred 118 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA feet to the head of a low divide, and then descended to th village of Che-shan, situated on the right bank of a considerabl stream. This village shares in the tea industry for the Sung pan market, but is of less importance than Lei-ku-ping. 4 From Che-shan to Shihch’uan Hsien the road ascends t right bank of the river, which flows between steep precipitor mountains. The path is usually several hundred feet / the stream, broad and fairly easy for the most part, but con stantly ascending and descending. The mountain-sides a1 steep but, where not absolutely vertical, are all under cultiv: tion, Maize being the staple crop. There is very little lim stone, the rocks being chiefly loose sandstone and mud sh These shales weather rapidly, and the steepest cultiva' slopes are usually composed of these rocks. The river is broad, and could easily be made naviga for boats during the high-water season. Even in its pre condition rafts could be floated down, but we saw no tra’ whatsoever on its waters. The water was dirty, and mu driftwood was strewn along the shores. This is collecte dried, and stacked, forming apparently the principal source: fuel. Trees are very scarce, but around houses occur Sophe Pistacia, Pteroceltis, Sterculia platanifolia (Wu-tung), Ka teria bipinnata, and Alder. The Keelreuteria was just comi into flower; the flowers are golden yellow produced in lar much-branched, erect panicles ; the leaves are very large at much divided. Shrubs are not plentiful but, much to surprise, the Tea Rose (Rosa indica) is quite common, and e dently spontaneous, by the wayside, on the cliffs, and by side of the stream. b A few li below the city of Shihch’uan Hsien the ri spanned by a bamboo suspension bridge, about 80 long, supported on cables made of split, bamboo culms f together. These cables, eight in number, are nearly 1 fol diameter, and are fastened to stanchions fixed on either s the river. Two similar cables on either side of the bridg 4 carried across at higher levels, and have attachments bamboo rope supporting those which form the base of 1 structure. A capstan arrangement is used for making + cables taut, and the lower ones are covered with stout wick PAETOND NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 11g k to forma footway. Like all such structures, this bridge heavy, sags very much in the middle, and is very unsteady walk across. The life of these bridges is only a few years, and strong winds often make them very unsafe. _ Shihch’uan Hsien is a small city charmingly situated at an ‘altitude of 2800 feet, on the left bank immediately below the ‘junction of two rivers. It is surrounded on all sides by steep, ‘more or less cultivated mountains. Inside the city are many trees, which add considerably to the effect. A pavilion and a mall pagoda crown two prominent hills, and assure the “ luck ”’ of the place. A narrow suburb runs ribbon-like between the ‘river and the city wall. This wall is broken down in places, nd the gates are low and small. We found accommodation in large, curiously constructed inn remarkable for the strength of its stinks and the abundance of vermin and mosquitoes it sheltered. The day’s journey was given as 65 li, but the li were ong, consequently the coolies with their loads arrived late. Sash was needed, but on opening a box to obtain some silver or exchange we found that some one had stolen from it about 30 taels and 5 dollars. The load belonged to a coolie we had paged at Taning Hsien, and retained because he had given unusual satisfaction! The previous day he had engaged a ocal coolie to carry his load, on the ground that he was feeling k. He was last seen near Che-shan, still unable to carry is load. Evidently he was the culprit, but he was thoughtful nough to leave us about half the amount contained in the box. ince he had about three-quarters of a day’s start I concluded t was best to quietly cut the loss, my first and last in China. Phe delays incident upon lodging a complaint with the official / would have involved me in further expense and trouble, with but small chance of recovering the money lost. _ The main road to Sungpan continues to ascend the right bank of the river to its source, then crosses over a range and enters the upper Min Valley at Mao Chou. I had been over _ most of this route in 1908 when crossing the Chiuting range from near Mienchu Hsien to Tu-mén, thence to Mao Chou. The | Toute we had in view leads to the north-west from Shihch’uan _ Hsien. From Chengtu to this point we had travelled without escort, but with the difficulties of an unknown route before us Sie xe SA Se ee — 120 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA a I thought it best to secure such at this city. Sending my to the Hsien’s yamén, in the ordinary way, I informed official of my project, and asked for the customary escort. an hour afterwards my card was returned with the informati that there was trouble at Sungpan and no escort would t supplied! The refusal was as curt as it was insolent, whether the Hsien was actually responsible I never found owt In the whole of my eleven years’ travel in China this was the first and last experience of official discourtesy. Thus tw annoying experiences, both unique in their way, yet, happily trivial and unimportant, marked my visit to Shihch’uan Hsien a town which, from the commencement of my travels in th western Szechuan, I always had a keen desire to visit. The next day we left Shihch’uan Hsien at sunrise, glad t escape from the malodorous, vermin-infested inn. No one pf in an appearance from the yamén, and no attempt ‘to fp our taking the route proposed was made. I had rather fearec this might happen, but my fears were fortunately groundles On leaving the city by the north gate we struck a stream nearl equal in volume to the main river. The road ascends the le bank, and almost immediately plunges into a narrow, wil ravine, through which we continued the whole day. Like « such roads it skirts the mountain-side, being usually sey ra hundred feet above the river, but is constantly deacon the water’s edge, only to ascend again a few hundred y farther on. It is in good repair, although the rocks are soft mud shales, and signs of landslips were frequent. he possible maize is cultivated, but houses are few and far bets ‘The country strongly reminded me of that around Wénch’ua Hsien in the upper Min Valley farther west. Trees are ve scarce, the Wu-tung (Séerculia) being perhaps the most commo The shrubs denote a dry (xerophytic) climate, nearly all havis small leaves, either thick or covered with a felt of hairs. C these shrubs, Abelia parvifolia, Lonicera pileata, Ligustru strongylophyllum, and various kinds of Spirea, are commot Bushes of the wild Tea Rose‘are not infrequent. Five li befo reaching Kai-ping-tsen, our destination for the day, we crosse a clear-water tributary by a remarkably well-built stone-ar bridge. During the day we passed several “rope” b ae * NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 121 made of a single thick cable of plaited bamboo culms—sure signs of difficult borderland country. Near Shihch’uan Hsien we passed a bamboo suspension bridge, similar to the one already described; at Kai-ping-tsen there is another such ridge. There was a fair amount of traffic on theroad. Potash salts (lye), shingles, and oil-cake were the principal loads encountered, all being carried on men’s backs, the first-named being the most common. | Kai-ping-tsen, alt. 3200 feet, is a small village of about fty houses, situated on the left bank of a stream some 50 li orth of Shihch’uan Hsien. A new, empty house afforded us ‘comfortable lodgings ; the people were courteous, and made ur brief stay with them very pleasant. A remarkably fine eadstone, recently erected over the tomb of a much-respected vidow, was the chief thing of interest in the village. On leaving Kai-ping-tsen we continued to ascend the left bank of the stream through country similar to that of the revious day, for 30 li to the market village of Hsao-pa-ti. uis village, all things considered, is of considerable size (about ne hundred houses), with many farmhouses scattered around. 1e mountains are less rugged and steep, and are given over to le cultivation of maize. The houses are low, built of mud ales and roofed with slabs of slate. Market was in progress ; od-stuffs, fuel, and potash salts being the principal goods on A bamboo suspension bridge spans the river and a road ds across country, ultimately joining with the main road tween Shihch’uan Hsien and Mao Chou. On leaving Hsao- -ti the road deserts the river and ascends through maize ields over a rather low ridge. It then descends to a small ibutary, after crossing which a steep climb of 1000 feet leads to the summit of another ridge. From this point we sighted the main stream again, flowing through a smiling valley, at the ‘head of which nestles the village of Pien-kou, which was our jdestination for the day. This village proved a good 20 li from the pridge, though it looked close at hand. The road led through Ss of maize to the valley, and finally across the river by an 0. ld pery shaky bamboo suspension bridge, which swayed emendously and was really unsafe. ~ Pien-kou (Yiian-kou of the maps), alt. 3800 feet, is a market Se tie ali ee re 122 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA village of some importance, but a fire had recently destroy half the houses. We had some difficulty in obtaining the only decent place being full and the occupants to move. After a little time persuasive insistence a and we settled down comfortably, if crowded. One of f occupants was down with fever. I dosed him with quinin and supplied him with enough to last several days, much his appreciation. This act got noised abroad, with the res that applications for medicine quickly became too numere Quinine is a drug much appreciated by Chinese, being ak the only foreign medicine they have real confidence in. The day’s journey was said to be 70 li. It was long uninteresting. The flora is miserably poor; Alder being only really common tree. . The road we were following ultimately joined the Mao Ch Sungpan main road near Chén-ping kuan, about 160 li bel the town of Sungpan. We could get no tidings of a m crossing to the Lungan-Sungpan highway, but all the same felt sure of finding one. Thus far the route indicated on map was all wrong, and we were left very much in the d as to our actual whereabouts. However, I was long § accustomed to this state of affairs. 9 Leaving Pien-kou, a journey of 40 li brought us to Pi yang ch’ang, a village of a dozen scattered, dilapidated hous The road was distinctly bad in places owing to landslips. “ rocks are mainly mud shales standing on edge. We follo the right bank of the river we had pursued from Shihch’ Hsien for the first 22 li, then crossed over to the left b: by means of a shaky improvised bridge of two tree logs, bamboo suspension bridge which formerly crossed the stre hereabouts having broken down. At this cross-over p resides a Chinese official, locally styled a Tu-ssu. This of was most courteous, helping us with advice and guidanee cross the stream. | 3 The journey generally was a repetition of the two for days, through a rocky but uninteresting gorge. WE possible, maize is cultivated, and we noted two odd pate of rice. Houses are few and far between, and we met o a few coolies laden with potash salts, charcoal, and shing LAO-TANG-FANG VIEW FROM HOSTEL, NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 123 The flora was not interesting, Alder, Pterocarya, and Cornus controversa are the only common trees. Buddleia Davidit is abundant by the stream side, and was in full flower. The 2a Rose alsoisfairlycommon. A Lily without bulbils, other- very like Lilium Sargentia, is plentiful in places. At Peh-yang ch’ang, alt. 4100 feet, we found a road leading off to the right, and connecting with the Lungan-Sungpan high- ay at Shui-ching-pu ; this we decided to follow. _ Above our lodgings at Peh-yang ch’ang the river bifurcates, ne branch, a clear-water stream, being locally adjudged the rger. It is up this stream the road connecting with the 0 Chou-Sungpan highway ascends. The people told us at this road was similar in character to the one we had owed thus far, but more difficult, especially since the proper dges had nearly all been recently destroyed by floods. = cross-over to the Min Valley is near a place called Hwa-tsze- g, where fine forests of Silver Fir and Spruce occur. Pien-kou is ¢ 2 considerable wine market, much of the product finding ay to Sungpan over this rough cross-country road. A fatiguing march marked our first day’s journey towards e Lungan-Sungpan highway. We made two long ascents id descents, and commenced a third ascent, putting up for the it at Hsao-kou, after covering 55 li. The second ascent fully 2000 feet, and very steep, through maize fields, mating in abandoned herb-clad areas. The descent was through coppice and brush. Houses occur scattered 2 and there, wherever cultivation is practicable, maize g the staple crop; the Irish potato and peas are also wn. The road proved difficult, but I had traversed worse. _ The forests have been destroyed, brushwood now covering eevee areas. Topping the loftier crags, and in ssible places generally, a sprinkling of conifer trees still , but we did not get near them. The vegetation generally hat common to the 5000 to 6000 feet belt in west Szechuan, but is less varied than in many parts I have visited. In the sys Alder was common, and on the slopes the Varnish tree Rhus vernicifiua) and Walnut (Juglans regia) occur in quantity. ‘ i coppices the Davidia, both the hairy and glabrous varieties, Js plentiful, but no large trees were noted. Throughout the _ peg 124 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA bottom-lands and abandoned cultivated areas ‘ Sum Lilac ” (Buddleia Davidii) was a wonderful sight—thousands bushes, each one with masses of violet-purple flowers, deligh the eye on all sides, the variety magnifica, with its petals and intense coloured flowers, being most in evider I gathered also an albino form, one small solitary bush, | only one I have ever met with. Forming a much-branch bush 4 to 8 feet tall, with rose-purple flowers, Hyd: villosa was, next to the Buddleia, the most strikingly mental shrub. On moist rocky slopes plants of R esculifolia occur in millions. It was in the fruiting but when in flower the acres of snow-white panicles must ha presented a bewitching sight. Nowhere else have I seen plant so abundant or luxuriant. The slender arching plu of white flowers, produced by Spir@a Aruncus, covered acres ground ; an apetalous Astilbe (A. rivularis) was also ab and worthy of note. The hamlet of Hsao-kou, alt. 5900 feet, consists of t scattered houses, surrounded by maize plats, with of other ruined houses near by. It is encompassed on sides by steep mountains, some of them culminating in lo limestone crags and rugged razor-like ridges with pinnae peaks—all of them inaccessible. At the back of the inn ar few Larch trees, and near by several large trees of a flat-le Spruce. The Hou-p’o (Magnolia officinalis) is cultiva hereabouts, and also around all of the houses we passed d ing the day. The innkeeper likewise cultivates a medicis Aconite (Aconitum Wailsonit), which is valued as a drug Chinese pharmacy. 7 We encountered only three men carrying goods during 1 whole day ; two were laden with potash salts, the pe v the bark of a Linden (Tilia), used locally for making sand Evidences of forest fires were all too frequent during 1 day’s march. : The next day rain ruined what otherwise would have} > a more than ordinarily interesting march. From i. a. until 2 p.m. we struggled up some 4000 odd feet to the s of the pass leading across the Tu-ti-liang shan ; then descen another 4000 feet to the hamlet of Hsueh-po, where we s NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 125 mdgings in a large and good house. Rain commenced shortly \ i II a.m., and continued the rest of the day. Our erspective was limited to a few hundred feet ; now and again st ted gust of wind would scatter the mists, admitting 1entary glimpses of cliffs and inaccessible peaks clothed Dasighs ‘and with occasional Conifer trees, but such ‘ws were rare. " The hamlet of Hsao-kou is very scattered, and we passed wo or three more houses soon after leaving our lodgings. jut after about 3 li houses and cultivation vanished, as did o the Buddleia and Hydrangea previously so abundant. the ascent, at first gradual, soon becomes precipitous, through ungle growth of shrubs and coarse herbs. The latter with thin brushwood is cut periodically and burnt. The ashes btained are placed in wooden vats fitted with sieve bottoms, oiling water is poured over them, and the liquid drains into ibs, where it is evaporated and salts of potash (lye) left as a sidue. This product is packed in flasks and carried to ‘ket towns for sale. We passed several rude huts where 1 were engaged in this occupation. The road ascends a mall torrent and is nowhere easy. By throwing logs across he stream and boggy places, lumber-men have succeeded in making some sort of a path. But crossing these wet, slippery gs was difficult. At one such crossing I slipped, but by iping into the rock-strewn torrent somehow managed to void a nasty accident. Near the summit, and for some istance down the Lungan side of the pass, are split pieces f wood, arranged to form a long flight of shallow steps that ssi t the roadway materially. The descent after a few hundred becomes gradual, leading through open, park-like slopes, e unlike anything I have encountered elsewhere in China. y largely denuded of trees these glades are covered with ass and horses, goats, and pigs are raised here in some intity. Forme! ly this range of mountains must have been covered ee 1 conifers, but the lumber-man’s hands have been heavily aid on these forests. We passed none but small, decrepit peci mens of no value. Hemlock, Spruce, and Silver Fir are i represented. The outstanding feature of the march was 7 ap es yak ‘ave 4, i J Bi :. % 126 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA the abundance of Cercidiphyllum trees. Throughout the me slopes and park-like areas on both sides of the range this ti is common. Stumps of decaying giants abound, one of tl which I photographed, measured 55 feet in girth! specimen had been broken off some 30 feet above the gre and was a mere hollow shell, but still supported many leafy branches. These stumps are relics of the largest b leaved trees I have seen anywhere in China. i spersed with these remains were many specimens of the tree, 60 to 80 feet tall, 8 to ro feet in girth, perfect outline, with myriads of neat, nearly round, bright g leaves. One of these was in young fruit, and for the fi time in my travels I secured specimens of the fruit of | beautiful and interesting tree. (Later I collected ripe see and this tree is now growing in the Arnold Arboretum, w. it promises to be quite hardy. It proved to be a vy distinct from the Japanese species.) This tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum, var. sinense) atte to greater size than any other broad-leaved tree lcneieell the temperate zone of eastern Asia. In size it is ¢ approached by its close ally, Tetracentron, which is common in the woods on the Tu-ti-liang shan. A Ie name for the Cercidiphyllum is “ Peh-k’o,” a name applied all over China to the Maidenhair tree (Ginkgo I The summit of the range is composed of mud shales, wh seem favourable to the growth of vegetation geneeny a tween 8000 feet altitude and the summit Rhododem calophytum is extraordinarily abundant, trees 40 to 50 feet and 5 to 7 feet in girth, with handsome cinnamon-brown bx cover many acres. Euptelea pleiosperma and Pterocarya ht hensis are other interesting trees plentiful hereabouts. “ bark uf the last-mentioned tree is used locally for re ; purposes. Willows in many species are common ; the | of certain of these and also that of Linden trees is used the peasants for making sandals. Viburnum erubescens, % Prattii, with pendulous panicles of white fragrant flov followed by fruit which is at first scarlet and then char to black, is perhaps the commonest shrub. Various Araliz Sorbus, etc., grow epiphytically on all the larger oa Li. NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 127 e a rough humus collecting bark. Maples in variety, romeles laden with fruit, and many other interesting ees were striking constituents of these woods. Tall growing arbs made a grand display, especially the apetalous A sétlbe laris, Spirea Aruncus, Anemone vitifolia with white and ik flowers like the Japanese Anemone, Artemisia lactiflora h large panicles of milk-white, fragrant flowers, Balsams wpatiens) with yellow, pink, and purple flowers; mixed with n also were Meadow Rue (Thalictrum), Aconites, many cios, and Meconopsis chelidonifolia growing about 3 feet with clear yellow flowers, saucer-shaped and 24 inchesacross. res of the country-side are covered by these various herbs. There was indeed plenty to interest one; the flora of this ion is undoubtedly rich, and it was most unfortunate that rain prevented an exhaustive investigation. Hsueh-po, alt. 6000 feet, consists of a few houses surrounded igh mountains with a good-sized torrent, which rises near the ead of the pass, and flows through the narrow valley. Maize Cultivated as the staple crop. The Hydrangea and Buddleia viously noted ascend to this altitude, and were a wealth of oms. Alder also extends to this point; Poplar likewise. s latter tree has a very graceful port and the leaves have 1 I ttioles and veins when young. ur lodgings were good and weather-proof, which was for- nate, since it rained heavily the night through, and until sven o'clock in the forenoon of the next day. Afterwards it as fe r, but threatening, heavy clouds and mists obscured the y-side from our view. Around the inn are several trees a a handsome, flat-leaved Spruce (Picea ascendens) with : dulc s branchlets. This tree, known locally as “‘ Mé-tiao ha or sung,” is the most esteemed timber tree in these parts. peters are felled, hewn into planks about 25 feet long, thick, and 12 inches broad, ‘and carried on men’s s to a point on the river whence it is possible to float down Lumbering is a very considerable industry in these aountains, the timber finding its way to Chungpa. This fine spruce was fruiting freely. (Later I secured plenty of seed, su y introduced it into Western gardens.) sae Hsueh-po, we crossed the torrent and descended 128 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA the left bank. At K’ung chiao the torrent is joined by ar of equal size, the united waters forming a fine clear stream. From this point downwards rice is cultivated. 1 stream continues to receive affluents, a very considerable « joining it at Tu-tien-tsze. At Peh-mu chiao, ro li ee tien-tsze, the timber logged in the surrounding m made into rafts and floated down. Just below Shui-chir the stream unites with the main branch of the Lungan Ri (the Fou Ho), and the rafts are floated down past the city Lungan to Chungpa, a large village of vast commercial | portance, in direct water communication with distant Chu king, it being within the Kialing River system. Tu-tien-tsze is a small market village and a Roman Mission centre. This Church has a strong following th out the region we had traversed from An Hsien. The ce folk everywhere in this part were most courteous and ci This, I think, is probably due to the influence wielded by self-sacrificing priests of the Roman Faith. But whe cause, I shall always retain pleasant memories of the pe encountered everywhere in this little-known region. The road proved easy all day, usually skirting the r tains well above the stream. At Tu-tien-tsze a cross-cc road leads to Lungan Fu, some 130 li distant. Ten li be Tu-tien-tsze we crossed to the left bank of the stream bi covered bridge. Descending a few miles epee prom tory we reached the main river (Fou Ho) opposite Shui-chi pu. Ferrying across to this village, we found lodgings in al 4 house owned by a Shensi man of the Mohammedan persuas: Shui-ching-pu, alt. 4200 feet, is a market village of about: houses, situated on an alluvial flat, surrounded by mounta largely under cultivation. A river of considerable size, 1 brings down an unusual quantity of detritus, joins the 1 stream on the left bank immediately below the e. road ascends this stream, leading to Wén Hsien in is province. It was said to be difficult, traversing a mour int region peopled with Sifan. Iron is a local product of s importance hereabouts. Gold is also mined in the neigh 0 hood. The quartz, after it has been broken into small pie is pounded into dust in mills like those commonly used NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 129 ulling rice. The dust is washed and the gold separated by jeans of quicksilver. Placer mining is carried out all along his Lungan River by unemployed peasants, but the yield is In 1904, when I first journeyed to Sungpan by way of en Chou, Chungpa, and Lungan, the officials were endeavour- ig to put a stop to placer mining. Placards were posted bidding the people to wash for gold, on the ground that indslips were caused through the removal of the rocks, etc., the foreshore. _ From Hsueh-po to Shui-ching-pu is said to be 60 li. The sy which we traversed is all under cultivation ; farmsteads general after Peh-mu chiao is reached. Alder, Walnut, and lar are the common trees, with Pear, Plum, and Peach around houses. In a garden I saw one magnificent speci- of the Crépe Myrtle (Lagerstremia indica), 25 feet tall, feet girth, just one luxuriant mass of carmine-red flowers. re and there the moist rocks are beautifully carpeted with , Woodwardia radicans, Blechnum eburneum, and Maiden- r being particularly rampant. The Buddleia and Hydran- ‘a, previously mentioned, are abundantly present, and were a ealth of pleasing flowers. t Shui-ching-pu we joined the highway between Lungan nd Sungpan. The intrepid Captain W. J. Gill,’ in June 7, was the first Occidental to traverse this route. Since t date several travellers and missionaries have been over ip road, but the total is small. My first journey over this highway was, as mentioned , in 1904. At that time I had no camera, and the collection of the wonderful scenery had much to do with “a econd journey to these parts in 1910. I saw the country ugh the eyes of a botanist, and for this reason I hope a nuance of this narrative will prove justifiable. ving Shui-ching-pu about 7 a.m., we saunteringly ered the 50 li to Hsao-ho-ying by 4 p.m. The road ascends es sft bank of the stream for some 20 odd li to a point just ove the small village of Yeh-tang. At this place the river is i nes oy another of nearly equal size on its right bank. A id ascends this tributary and leads across the mountains 4 1 River of Golden Sand. VOL. 1.—9 A bie b4 é ae 130 | A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA through country sparsely peopled with Sifans, and c the Mao Chou—Sungpan highway a few ality Siléey ingp Ting. The road we followed crosses the left affluent of » Fou River by means of an iron suspension bridge 24 yards lon erected immediately above the union of the two streams. — few li beyond this place the road plunges into a wild gor, The scenery is wonderful. Limestone cliffs clad with tation rear themselves 1000 to 2000 feet above the torr which hereabouts rushes headlong over huge rocks. possible, maize is cultivated on the slopes and rice in the b lands. We crossed to’ the right ‘hesiletoy sche bridge just below a place where landslips have produc series of cataracts. About 3 li below Hsao-ho-ying the suddenly opens out, leaving room for a small circular vali the middle of which the walled village above named is situat Viewed from this point where there is an old gateway, village presents a charming picture of peace and ple locked in by precipitous mountains. On entering the vil however, one is quickly disillusioned. Abject poverty is ¢ too apparent. The one main street is broad, flanked by m or less ruined houses, with much of the land within the w given over to maize plats. The pple oe their dilapidated surroundings. Hsao-ho-ying, alt. 5300 feet, signifies “‘Camp on the S: River.” It is an ancient garrison village. Ei ‘ Eighty years some 700 soldiers were quartered here. This neil speedily reduced as the surrounding country was conquel To-day the garrison is put down at 40 men, but it is doubtf even this numberremains. Three yaméns belonging to mi officials of low rank are the only respectable buildings i place. . At Shui-ching-pu we were assured we could exc . silver at Hsao-ho-ying. This proved a fable and lande in an awkward dilemma. However, “ Mo-li-to” (Fa inventent), as the locals have it ! ‘ The flora of the day’s journey was not particuladial though we passed many plants of interest. Around I ho-ying, the Walnut (/uglans regia), Varnish (Rhus ve Poplar, Apple, Pear, Plum, Peach, and Tu-chung (Euc NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 131 moides) are commonly cultivated. By the side of the torrent e Buddleia was again a wonderful sight. In a temple yard ear Yeh-tang is a magnificent tree of Meliosma Beaniana, out 60 feet tall and 12 feet in girth, the head being fully 80 tin diameter. The pinnate leaves produce abundant shade. s; tree was covered with small pea-like purple fruits which r afforded me a supply of ripe seeds. (The pinnate-leaved , inbers of this small family are all handsome trees, and none S in cultivation previous to my explorations. I have eceeded in introducing three species, all of them promising thrive under cultivation. One, M. Veitchiorum, is now arishing just within the main entrance to Kew Gardens.) From Hsao-ho-ying to Shuh-chia-pu, 30 li, the road ascends arrow valley which is without special interest, the bottom ds and lower slopes being cultivated with maize and buck- . Houses occur at intervals. Just above Shuh-chia-pu, i poverty-stricken hamlet of about a score of houses, the ar bifurcates. The road ascends the left and larger branch, inging immediately into a narrow gorge. The track, all igs considered, is good, though there is room forimprovement. le scenery in this gorge, for magnificent, savage grandeur, juld be hard to surpass. The cliffs, chiefly limestone, are nostly sheer, and 2000 to 3000 feet high. Wherever vegetation an find a foothold it is rampant, and a luxuriant jungle of rubs clothes all but the most vertical walls of rock. By the ide of the torrent coarse herbs, shrubs, and small trees abound. he mountain crests and ridges are covered with Spruce and ine. Now and again glimpses of vicious-looking, desolate aks, towering above thetree-line, were obtainable. The waters Mf the torrent roar and dash themselves into foam in their ionate endeavour to escape to more open country. In more stretches the river describes a series of S-curves with hingly areas covered with Myricaria germanica and Hippophaé u * olia (Sallowthorn), jutting out into the current. In one Mace the cliffs recede somewhat, leaving room for a narrow , where three or four peasants’ huts are pitched. Around cabins forlorn patches of maize, buckwheat, cabbage, D (Rheum palmatum, var. tanguticum), and Tang-kuei polymorpha, var. sinensis) are cultivated. The QL . . . 132 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA abandoned clearingsare covered with coarse herbs, among whi Senecio clivorum, growing 4 to 5 feet tall, with its golden yello flowers, was prominent. Astilbe Davidii also abounds ; wise the Buddleia. A sub-shrubby Elder, growing 3 to 5 tall, with masses of salmon-red fruits, was a pretty sight all the more open moist places. (The species proved to } new and has been named Sambucus Schweriniana, Rehder, | Planta Wilsoniane, Part II. p. 306 (1912).) The v indeed is rich and varied, and a large harvest of rewarded the day’s labours. After scrambling some 30 along this gorge we reached the hostel of Lao-tang-fang j as night was closing in. We encountered considerable on the road. Coming from Sungpan were coolies laden medicines, sheep-skins, and wool. Journeying thither thecoc were laden chiefly with wine in specially constructed t preserved pork andrice. Lao-tang-fang, alt. 7600 feet, consis of one large new hostel, not quite completed at the time of o visit ; a long row of “ bunks”’ are built along one side, wi benches for the accommodation of loads on the other. * whole structure is of wood, the roofing being of shingles b laid. The mud floors were very damp, and vegetation w springing up in the corners and under the bunks. Skins Serow and Budorcas served as mattress on the bunks, settees, and no two of these skins exhibited the same colorat Both animals are said to be common in the neig more especially the Serow. The Parti-coloured Bear, or Panda, also occurs here in the Bamboo jungles. The hostel was full to overflowing and undoubtedly suppl a much-needed want. For the sake of future travellers, if 1 no other reason, I heartily hope success attends the landlor venture. Formerly a most miserable structure occupied tl site, and I have unpleasant memories of a night spent there 1904. Except for a tiny cabbage-patch there was no si of cultivation around the hostel, but clearings were be made for the purpose of cultivating Tang-kuei and oth medicines. The view from this spot is savage and gra beyond power of words. On all sides are precipitous mov tains, towering 3000 feet and more above the torrent, all m or less densely forested. Almost facing the river is a limesto 0 SLISOdUd ANT HLIM GCHLSAYONA WVAALS JO GHA *SMONS HLIM 'ONLL‘Od-HANSIi . . ” ¥ bd ™ — ~ ww ” —s. eS I v » ~ ° ieee i . ‘4 4 \ a ; ¥ : , * ‘ ° 5 ; . f =" - ‘ Ay j tf 8 " 4 $ r 4 + 4 { ae ‘ 4 - 3 5 os ) . DY fe < a ’ 7 FGA ‘ 7 - ¥ . “ - . * 5 7 ~ ae x # be * F ¥ f. * #2 =. aa # ‘ ns . , : PY 4 . ca oa ae 4 é bed : er 4 s ° . ¥ a5 ‘ . 2 é ja o 4 y ee: i panei Ets i si ws! =: it - ; a % LA 7 = x w = é LU 7 ext ¢ i. f a A . 5 # = ~*~ im ~ ” . 4 4 3 ‘ . $ $ * Ft “es "3 es | - ik eS bes x 3 ark « : : ? r ¥ : ¥ r 2 ; v t ns : é ; ; NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 133 iff with upturned strata on edge, sheer and bare of vegetation. 3ehind this is another nearly vertical slope covered with stark, ead Conifer trees. In the distance, looking back on the ‘oad we had followed, bare, vicious-looking peaks, probably ,000 to 16,000 feet high, were visible. All around the hostel e lesser slopes are covered with impenetrable forest of broad- eaved deciduous trees. The higher parts and the crags are othed with Conifers, tall, slightly branched trees of no great ze—altogether a wonderful scene of natural beauty, at present defiled by the hand of man. “It was cold during the night; the wind played freely h Rongh the unfinished structure, and the thickest of clothing s needed in order to keep warm. The next day wemade a later start than usual, and travelling 10st leisurely covered the 40 li to San-tsze-yeh before 5 p.m. he journey was one long scramble through a continuation of the savage ravine. The chairs had to be carried piecemeal, and all of us reached our destination very much fatigued. We ajoyed a gloriously fine, sunny day, the narrow streak of sky sible from the bed of the ravine being of the purest Thibetan- ie. The camera was kept busy and I secured a fine set of vs, but so steep is the country and so dense the jungle that impossible to photograph trees. “The rock-strewn torrent, with its thundering, seething aters, occupies practically the entire bed of the ravine, leaving at room for the road which winds along its banks. We ossed this torrent many times, either by fording it or by eans of half-rotten log bridges. Luckily the waters were yw and caused us no trouble. In 1904 I ascended this ravine ortly after heavy rains, and have the liveliest recollections the difficulties encountered. Much of the road and many of e bridges had been washed away, making it necessary to new a pathway through the jungle and improvise bridges by elling trees in several places. N No words of mine can adequately depict the savage, awe- mspiring scenery of this wild ravine. Stupendous limestone cliffs, 3000 to 4000 feet high, often too steep for the scantiest veg station to find a foothold, but more generally sparsely or plentifully forested, wall in the torrent and its accompanying Seoeosguss er SSS.5- - = p rh 134. A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA roadway. Waterfalls abound, but lateral torrents are few The flora is very rich, but largely inaccessible. Practical all the trees, shrubs, and herbs common to the 7000 to go feet belt occur here. Conifers are the principal trees. Silve Fir, Spruce, Hemlock, Larch, White Pine, Juniper, and Ye are all represented. The Pine (P. Armandi) is the commor tree up to 8500 feet, clinging to the sheer cliffs in a remai able manner. With its stunted branches and short leave was hardly recognizable, suggesting a green Maypole than a Pine tree! Many of the Spruce and Silver Fir fruiting freely, the erect, violet-coloured symmetrical cones the latter being very handsome. Larch (L. Potaninii) abow overtopping all the other Conifers, but the trees are small. the Conifers are hereabouts designated “‘ Sung-shu”’ (lite ally Pine trees), but the timber of the Larch, flat-leaved Spru and White Pine, valued in the order given, are most prized f building purposes generally. Of the broad-leaved decid trees, Maple (Acer), Linden (Tilia), and Birch (Betula) are most common. A few Poplar occur, but Oak is exceedin rare, the few noted being scrubby evergreens of no - beauty. The variety of shrubs is very great, all the 1 woodland genera being rich in species. Sorbaria, with its la panicles of white flowers, was one of the most attractiy Spirzea, Viburnum Lonicera, Rubus, Philadelphus, Sorbus, a many other families, made a fine display either with t flowers or fruit. Strong-growing herbs, like the various spe : of Senecio, Astilbe, Aconitum, and Anemone, cover miles of t roadside. In shady places the handsome Maidenhair fe Adiantum pedatum, was a charming picture; in sunny spi the lovely Gentiana purpurata, with intense carmine-red flowe was a sight never to be forgotten. 4 About ro li below San-tsze-yeh the ravine widens out i narrow valley, with the mountain-slopes on the left honk : torrent less precipitous and grass-clad. We passed the ruin: some old forts, and shortly afterwards a Sifan hamlet e sisting of three or four farmsteads, with numerous prayer-fi fixed on the roofs. In the tiny valley wheat, barley, bu wheat, oats, peas, and broadbeans are cultivated, and ° crops were ready for harvesting. 4 NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 135 _ San-tsze-yeh, alt. 9200 feet, consists of ruinous hovels built on a level with the infant stream which at this point breaks 1p into three equal branches, all of which have their source in the near neighbourhood. Looking back on the route we had traversed we saw that all the higher peaks are barren and desolate, the highest of all being flecked with snow. The whole plexus is made up of the spurs and buttresses of the mighty snow-clad Hsueh-po-ting. To the north-east from San-tsze- eh are other tremendous peaks, bare, barren, and uninviting appearance. The aspect of the country around this hamlet purely Thibetan. The scant crops and abject poverty of the uhabitants speak plainly of a country where altitude and imate set agricultural skill and industry at defiance. Such gions the Chinese abhor and cannot colonize. The pastoral an, with their herds of cattle and sheep, remain masters of he soil though politically subject to Chinese authority. The conquest of this wild region must have been a most difficult ask and speaks volumes for the military genius which accomplished it. _ During the night at San-tsze-yeh I had a violent attack of ue, probably caused by a chill, which culminated in a fit of vomiting. This seizure and the howling of many dogs were against a good night’s sleep. In consequence we took things gently the next day, and I used my chair much more than Lee: ‘Twenty-five li above San-tsze-yeh, to the right of the stream which descends the narrow valley, there is a most interesting place. A torrent heavily surcharged with lime descends from the eternal snows of the Hsueh-po-ting, depositing along its course thick lime encrustations of creamy white. The place is sidered holy by the Sifan, to whom any natural phenomenon strongly appeals. A temple has been erected here and a series of some fifty tarns constructed by leading the waters E m the stream and making small semicircular dams. All eat slightly different levels, and the waters as they flow from be > to another continue to build up the dams by leaving deposits of lime behind. The bed of each tarn is creamy white, but owing to the light being reflected in different colours, uecording to the varying depth of each, an attractive scene of 136 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA many-coloured waters is presented. Some are clear azure others creamy white, pink, green, purple,andso on. The is called ‘‘ Wang Lung-ssu” (Temple of the Dragon Prince) and it is fitting that the Sifan, children of nature as they consider the place holy. Near the temple the waters have up a wonderful series of waterfalls, and every fallen tree bush obstructing the waters is speedily encrusted with lim Above the temple the stream is fully 80 yards wide, and th bed is creamy white with soft encrustations of lime, the marks being beautifully defined. These lime-deposits extendig a mile or two and present a most striking scene. From the bed of this stream, a short distance above th temple, a fine view of the snow-clad Hsueh-po-ting is ob able. The face visible carries but little snow, and i below the glaciers are wonderful cliffs of red-coloured rock. contrast the colour-effects are most remarkable. There said to be another temple some few li higher up towards snows, but I was too fatigued to visit it. 4 All around Wang Lung-ssu are fine forests of Spruce, Fir, Birch, with miscellaneous trees and shrubs. In vicinity of the lime-deposits the trees look very Eee many are bleached and dead, others yellow and dying. the vegetation it is evident that these lime-deposits are and spreading rapidly. A few Rhododendrons occur on th margins of the stream and in the woods, but are not happy Right by the water’s edge I gathered Arctous alpinus, var. rube a tiny alpine shrub with red fruit closely allied to the Blueberrie and found also near the glaciers in British Columbia ! pretty little plant, only some 4 to 6 inches high, is quite comme hereabouts, but had not before been recorded from Chin: Near the tarns Cypripedium luteum, a yellow-flowered counte part of the North American Moccasin flower (C. s is very abundant. (Later I succeeded in introducing live roo of this species to the Arnold Arboretum, where plants are no growing.) | The forests of this immediate neighbourhood are rich in Spruce trees, 80 to 150 feet tall and 6 to 1o feet in girth, short branches producing a spire-like effect, are c tic of the region. The Silver Fir are less noteworthy, but, . NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 137 he Spruce, were fruiting freely. (Both were subsequently atroduced to cultivation.) Larch overtops all other trees, o ching its limits at about 12,000 feet altitude. The vegetation [ pene flanking the narrow valley, up whichthe main road , presents a remarkable contrast. The range to the left th Fivcam: above 10,000 feet altitude, is covered only with srub and grass; whereas the range on the right bank is wily forested up to altitude 12,000 feet. Early in the after- joon, after covering 40 li, we reached the lonely hostel of San- hia-tsze, alt. 12,800 feet, situate some 600 feet below the head fthe pass. During the first 25 li of the day’s march we passed large farmhouses, but nearly all are deserted and falling ato ruins. Around these houses a few plats of wheat, barley, , and Irish potato are cultivated; also cabbage, garlic, fo her vegetables in minute quantities. Tobacco (Nicotiana ic ot in small quantities for household use, is grown around e-yeh, and the crop looked very happy. These sporadic mpts at cultivation represent the vain and futile efforts of a inese settlers to eke out an existence from the inhos- ble soil. This side of the pass is evidently much colder the Sungpan side, since there, at greater elevations, good s of wheat, barley, and peas can be raised. 4 fo from the forests already mentioned, herbs dominate né flora. A great variety were still in flower, the various pecies of Senecio and Gentiana being most striking. Gentiana usa, a slender plant a foot and more tall, with numerous e deep blue flowers, looked particularly happy, flaunting jlossoms in the sun. On rocky screes the yellow-flowered yatis tangutica is abundant and was covered with its pt ped blossoms. The hedges bordering the fields are 1 chiefly of Wild Gooseberry and Sorbaria arborea: fatter was in full flower. In copses by the stream, up to 1,500 feet, Hornbeam, Cherry, Red Birch, Willow, Maple, and zel-nut are common. The Hazel-nut is mainly Corylus a var. thibetica, a variety having a spiny fruit closely ng that of the Sweet Chestnut (Castanea). Bhhentel of San-chia-tsze is maintained for the accommo- ot travellers, and a posse of soldiers is stationed here to SS mee aa oe aoe 138 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA . cabin, built of shales and roofed with shingles held down b stones. The floor is of mud and very uneven; there is no out for smoke, save the doorway, and no windows. At mide a candle was necessary to avoid falling over things when mc about indoors, During different visits I have suffered r days and nights in this lonely spot, on one occasion ! snowed in for three consecutive days. The cabin is si on a narrow sloping valley running nearly east and mile or so above the tree-limit, flanked on the northern : by a ridge of stark, crumbling rocks. To the south the ra culminates in bare peaks and eternal snows of the BE ting. The moorland country all around is typical of E Thibet, so perhaps a few details are permissible. The t spurs and valleys are covered with extensive heaths of sex made up of several species of Spirea (including S. mollife S. alpina, and S. myriilloides), Sibirea levigata, Lom hispida, L. chetocarpa, L. prostrata, L. thibetica, and otl several Barberries, Currants, shrubby Potentillas, Ast alus, Sallowthorn, small-leaved, twiggy Rhododendrons, ¢ Juniper. As the altitude increases, one by one these st give out until only the Juniper is left. This ceases about 15, feet ; alpine herbs ascend another rooo feet, and the limi vegetation is roughly 16,000 feet. The Juniper scrub is: I to 2} feet tall, very dense and difficult to traverse, furnishes excellent fuel. Mixed with this scrub are he in great variety, the Poppyworts (Meconopsis) being ticularly abundant. Possibly the commonest herb bet 12,500 feet and 14,000 feet is Meconopsis punicea, a la species having large, dark-scarlet nodding flowers. (It from near this vicinity that I succeeded in introducing plant in 1903.) The violet-blue flowered M. Henrici is com between 13,000 feet to 14,000 feet, but much less so than aro Tachienlu. The prickly M. racemosa, with blue flower: plentiful in rocky places between 13,000 feet to 14,500 1 From 11,500 feet to 13,000 feet the gorgeous M. integrij growing 3 feet tall, with its peony-like, clear yellow fic 8 to 11 inches across, occurs, but is not plentiful. The i colours among alpine flowers everywhere is well know 1, | this region is no exception. The yellow is mostly suppliec CGNOIOMOAAOA NI LAOd GUNIOM ‘SSVd NVH HHOSH WOW LSVAHLOOS*LSVA ONIMOO' NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 139 x necio, Saussurea and other Composite, slender growing saxifraga, etc. The blue and purple by various Aconites, arkspurs, and Gentians ; among the latter Gentiana V eitchio- um, with large erect flowers, covers large areas. The Lousewort ic aris) and Fumewort (Corydalis) are represented by nany species, having flowers embracing all the cardinal colours. *rimulas occur, but not in many species. Androsace, Sedum, yananthus, and other alpine genera abound. Large flocks of sheep are pastured on these uplands, but ik are not kept in quantity hereabouts. There is not much fariety of game. Blue sheep are common, Budorcas are found ar the timber line; on the higher crags occasional flocks of , or Thibetan gazelle, occur. Snow-partridge, Thibetan azel-hen, Snow-cock and allied game-birds, together with Mhibetan Hares, are fairly numerous. The Wolf is the only rnivorous animal really common. _ The Hseuh-po-ting snows are visible on clear days from the vall of Chengtu city, and are accounted the “‘ Luck of the lain.” The Chinese claim that so long as snow covers peak the prosperity of Chengtu and its surrounding plain ssured. It was a perfect moonlight night on the occasion my last sojourn at San-chia-tsze, and late in the evening I held the “Luck of Chengtu,” with its crown of eternal , w lit by the radiant moonlight. The loneliness of the n, the intense stillness on all sides, and the wonderful peak hits snowy mantle, made a most impressive scene. A glorious morning followed a perfect night. From the fa the pass (alt. 13,400 feet) I obtained further good views e Hsueh-po-ting, bearing west-south-west and secured ne photographs. The peak is probably 22,000 feet high, in lape an irregular tetrahedron, the south-west slopes carrying mormous snow-fields. The north-east face is very steep ad carries but little snow. The surrounding peaks are bare ind desolate looking ; no vestige of life was discernible, and me scene was lonely, most forbidding, even awesome, igh bathed in brilliant sunshine. ae: slow San-chia-tsze are the stone ruins of an old fort and stockade, relics of ancient warring times, but now covered ith various herbs, especially Saxifrages, which were masses 140 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA of yellow, and other coloured flowers. The head of the f¢ is marked by aruined tower and fort, from the summit of whi Thibetan prayer-flags waved. That robbers still haunt th regions was brought home to us by the sight of a partial covered coffin near the head of the pass. A few weeks befo a poor coolie, bound towards Lungan Fu to purchase rice, ¥ attacked here, robbed, and killed. The bandits got clear awa The coolie’s “ pai-tzu”’ (a framework for carrying loads ¢ and various appurtenances lay on top of the coffin and rema to tell the story of the crime. All around are grassy a covered at minencakmenilerg race! oo flowers, At the head of the pass small boulders of sandstone, granite, and other rocks lay scattered around. Just belov beds, which resemble coal-ashes, probably of volcanic ¢ * From the pass we dropped down into a valley which quie led to fields of golden wheat and barley. The crops w ripening, and here and there the reapers were busy. F a ruined fort, several Sifan farmsteads, and a lamasery, road led to the summit of a grassy ridge. Descending a hundred feet we sighted the city of Sungpan na narrow, smiling valley, surrounded on all sides by fields golden grain, with the infant Min, a clear, limpid stream, w ing its way through in a series of graceful curves. Ir fields the harvesters were busy, men, women, and child mostly tribesfolk, in quaint costume, all pictures of f health, laughing and singing at their work. Under a ¢ Thibetan-blue sky, the whole country bathed in warm s light, this busy scene of agricultural prosperity gladdenec hearts of all of us, fatigued and exhausted as we were from hardships of our journey through savage mountains = sublime scenery and wonderful flora. if A ry i ie CHAPTER XI SUNGPAN TING THE LAND OF THE SIFAN : HE city of Sungpan is situated on the extreme north- | =. west corner of Szechuan, about long. 103° 21’ E., lat. ie 32° 41’ N.,at an altitude of 9200 feet, and is the farther- t outpost of Chinese civilization in this direction. The sur- inding country, more especially to south-west, west, andnorth- est, is genie by Sifan, a people concerning which very little > k Originally established as a military post after the on Seat of the neighbouring regions by the Emperor Kienlung ut A.D. 1775, Sungpan has developed into a most important entrepét. Itisacity of the second class (styled “‘ Ting’), t the head civil official has the local rank of prefect, his | title being “‘ Fu-I-Li Min-Fu,” which signifies “ the Bar- n-cherishing, Chinese-governing Prefect.” This fanciful e has reference to the official’s control over the neighbouring n tribes—a control which is purely nominal. The military portance of this stronghold is still fully recognized, and its : ategic value is beyond question. A Chinese general (Chen- , in command of ten regiments, has his headquarters here, i h jurisdiction extending south to Kuan Hsien, east to angan Fu, and north-east to Nanping in Kansu province. The town is most picturesquely situated, occupying con- erable space in a narrow, highly cultivated valley flanked steep mountain-slopes 1000 to 1500 feet high. The Min (Fu) iver, which takes its rise some 35 miles to the north, winds circuitous course down the valley and flows through the own in an S-curve, entering and leaving through the city Ils at unfordable points. On the western side the town is ed by a steep slope, up two sides of which a wall is carried. m4r 142 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA The west gate of the city is situated at the top of this slo and is exactly 1000 feet above the river. Save for a ya and a temple or two the whole of the mountain-slope wit the walls is given over to terraced cultivation, the city p being clustered in the valley alongside the river. The surrounding three sides of the city is very substantially br of brick, being fully 20 feet thick and more high, but that wh ascends the mountain-sides is in places only 2 feet thick ; 4 feet high; a steep ravine, however, immediately out this wall, affords additional protection. Since the Chinese - established themselves here the town has undergone m vicissitudes. Time and again the Sifan have : upon it, captured it, and massacred all who fell into their he So frequent have been these attacks, and so great is the C dread of treachery on the part of the Sifan, that i a within the last few years that any of these people b allowed to remain overnight within the city walls. ‘if In 1910 Sungpan had a resident civil population of : 3000 people, and a floating population equalling, if not ex ing, this number. The houses are nearly all of wood, gene well built, with rather curiously-carved porticoes ; the ir employed for building is mostly Juniper, which is flo dows the Min Eiver:fragn s putin’ ees £S ea n01 north-east. In October rgor the city was two-thirds dest by fire, but on the occasion of my last visit in 1910 he vastated area had been practically rebuilt. The streets badly paved, ill-kept, and the city possesses no buildin architectural beauty. Near the south gate the mi section of the town is situated, and a considerable a: market-gardening is carried on there. The sien fond of flowers, nearly every house boasting some in ] on the walls, or in borders. Stately Hollyhocks, with m coloured flowers, are a feature. With these are gene planted Tiger Lilies, Chinese Asters, and small-flow Poppies, the whole making a bright and pleasing effect. — Chinese Aster (Callistephus hortensis) is wild in the neq bourhood ; the Poppy is a species closely allied to Pap alpinum. The population is mainly Mohammedan Ch ir who carry on a remunerative barter-trade with the surrour rHE CITY OF SUNGPAN TING SUNGPAN TING 143 9es. Tea is the all-important medium employed, this modity and a few odd sundries being taken in exchange the tribesmen for their medicines, skins, wool, musk, etc. n g the month of July a fair is held annually for trade urposes. The people from far and near attend this fair, a amount of business being transacted. Trading caravans lso make long journeys into the country north-west to the ders of the Kokonor regions. Wool, sheep-skins, and various iedicines in great quantity are exported from Sungpan to ifferent parts of China. ne trade passing through Sungpan is, I am convinced, oo greater than has been estimated, but is increasing ually. In 1903, on the occasion of my first visit to this , L enjoyed the companionship of W. C. Haines-Watson, , then Commissioner of the Imperial Maritime Customs ( hungking. This gentleman investigated the trade of this gion, estimating the exports to Thibet at Tls. 801,000, and = into China at Tls. 512,000 (‘‘ Journey to Sungp’an,” . China Branch Roy. Asiat. Soc., 1905, xxxvi). Our sit occurred before the city had recovered from the disastrous re of 1901, and trade was suffering in consequence. In 1910 sade was evidently booming. I have no figures to guide me, comparing the two visits I would put the trade with China lone at a million taels. This trade has three outlets: one, t, via Lungan Fu to Chungpa; another, south-east, via Mente Shihch’uan Hsien to An Hsien ; the third through a Hsien to Chengtu. The first two routes afford water munication from Chungpa and An Hsien respectively, : © Chungking on the Yangtsze River. By these routes ost of the goods intended for Chungking and beyond are onve The trade via Kuan Hsien is mainly with Chengtu a | other cities on the plain. This latter trade route has been ee as the most important, whereas it is really less than either of the other two outlets. . ne Piite Captain W. J. Gill in 1877 was the first Occidental ) visit Sungpan. Since that date several foreigners have id visits, and missionaries of Protestant denominations have a abortive attempts to establish stations there. I have d this place three times, and on each occasion enjoyed : ee 2 ; 2 144 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA the stay and departed with regret. Did the Fates ordain th I should live in Western China I would ask for nothing bett than to be domiciled in Sungpan. Though the altitude considerable the climate is perfect, mild at all times, with, as general rule, clear skies of Thibetan-blue. During the one can always sleep under a blanket, in winter a fire and clothing are all that is necessary. Excellent beef, milk, and butter are always obtainable at very cheap The wheaten flour makes very fair bread, and in season is a variety of game. Good vegetables are produced, s Irish potatoes, peas, cabbages, turnips, and carrots, and st fruits as peaches, pears, plums, apricots, apples, and W Raspberries (Rubus xanthocarpus). Nowhere else in int China can an Occidental fare better than at Sungpan T With good riding and shooting, an interesting, bizarre f to study, to say nothing of the flora, this town t tions in advance of all the other towns of Western China. The valley, which varies from } to 4 mile in width, and mountain-slopes, rising from 1000 to 1500 feet above, are git over to wheat and barley cultivation, with occasional of peas and flax, the latter being valued for its seeds, yield an oil used as an illuminant. In the latter half of Av the whole country-side is one vast sheet of golden grain b to the wind. This grain is reaped, leaving a generous stu which is immediately ploughed under. The ploughs are si consisting of an iron-shod shear, a straight handle of we a long shaft, to which is harnessed a couple of oxen or hal: yak. fi In harvesting the grain, tribesfolk (chiefly Po-lau-t. who come from the upper reaches of the Tachin Ho, n days’ journey to the west-south-west, play an all-impc part. Every year these people visit this region for the exp! purpose of this work, and are, in fact, indispensable. As crop is reaped it is tied into little sheaves and stacked | downwards on high hurdle-like frameworks (Kai-kos) to aw threshing. The threshing is done by wooden flails, both n and women taking part in the work. The corn is grounc mills driven by water-power. ‘ The name “‘ Sungpan”’ has reference to forests of TWO SIFAN SUNGPAN TING 145 ind Fir and the circuitous course of the river Min (Fu). The iver still pursues its winding course, but the forests have long ince disappeared. It is only in temple grounds and among nbs that any trees remain. The mountains are absolutely reeless, where not under cultivation they are covered with rub and long grass. The outer crust of the mountains con- ists of a rich flaky loam, probably of glacial origin, ratherheavy, it specially adapted for cereal cultivation. In the grass and ab Pheasants are very plentiful in the neighbourhood of Itivation, so also is a long-eared, light-grey-coloured Hare. ask Deer, Wapiti, and White Deer occur in the neighbour- od. On the moorlands a Marmot, called ‘‘ Hsueh-chu”’ 10w-pig), burrows in large colonies. North-west of Sungpan is the Amdo country, a region of ands. The Chinese designate it ‘‘ Tsaoti,’’ which may be rpreted ‘ Prairie.” This region is made up of rolling intry above 11,000 feet altitude, where vast herds of cattle, sheep, and many ponies are reared. A great part of this egion is peopled with pastoral Sifan, but the more remote ; are in the hands of nomads belonging to Ngo-lok and Yga-ba tribes, of evil reputation as robbers and bandits, eaded alike by Chinese and the more peaceably inclined sifan. These robber tribes are of Tangut origin, having their 1eadquarters around the Kokonor region. Being of nomadic habit they wander far afield, and rob caravans and kill the tlers weaker in numbers than themselves. When I arrived m Sungpan in 1910 I found there some 200 soldiers from engtu bent on a punitive expedition against these banditti. About a year previously a Chinese official had been murdered in the Amdo country, not many days’ journey from Sungpan, and no redress had been obtained. Nine persons were held guilty for this crime, but in spite of demands on the part of the Chinese the clan would not give up these people. e affair ended in the Chinese killing as many members of ‘this robber clan as the small army sent on the expedition ould capture. It is from the Amdo region that Sungpan fives most of its wool, skins, and medicines, consequently e trade depends very largely upon peace obtaining there. 4 The Sifan (Western people) are unquestionably of Thibetan VOL. I.—IO 146 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA origin. They are not nomads, but essentially a pastoral ai agricultural people. In dress, speech, and facial characte istics they agree closely with the inhabitants of anteri Thibet. Their houses are similarly constructed, and Lamais dominates their lives. As a people the Sifan are divid into several tribal clans: those around Sungpan style thes selves Murookai; those a little to the south-west of this tov Lappa. Immediately around Sungpan the Chinese is generally understood, but away from the town Thibetan only is spoken, each hamlet having an to conduct all affairs with the Chinese. These people are ruk by head-men who are held directly responsible for the prop maintenance of law and order. The Chinese policy is one non-interference in so far as it is consistent with the stat of China as the paramount power. The Sifan men as seen in the streets of Sungpan | the immediate neighbourhood are swarthy in appearance average 5 feet 6 inches in height or rather more; in walk they have a clumsy gait and are generally awkward and sv when approached. Their dress is a sort of “ cover-all”’ m of grey or claret-coloured serge, confined around the by a girdle ; the right shoulder is generally uncovered. garment is often edged with fur ; sometimes it is made entire of sheep-skins, with the wool worn inside. Short trousers aj high felt boots cover the legs and feet, though in the stre they frequently go barefooted. The head-gear is either a lo stone-coloured, soft felt hat, with turned-up brim border with black, or a high, cone-shaped, light grey felt hat edg with white sheep-skin. Occasionally those living near Chin settlements affect a dirty turban. The hair is worn long a gathered up inside the hat. The Lamas have their hea close-cropped or shaven, and when seen in the streets ¢ usually hatless. In ceremonial dress they wear a sort cocked hat made of grey serge covered with a mass of flu yellowish woollen stuff. Muleteers and men generally, wh travelling, go armed with swords, knives, and long guns, t latter fitted with a fuse and a fork to rest the barrel on w taking aim. All wear charm-boxes on their chests, and cai a flint-box and tinder suspended from their girdle ; somewh SSVd NVHS HAOSH NO S.LIGNVil Ad GHUYNHAHOAW NVYN a 40 ANOL Sa eye SUNGPAN TING 147 sout their person a wooden, often silver-lined, eating bowl also carried. The wealthy prize a leopard skin garment nost highly. _ The young girls are occasionally passing fair to look upon, jut from hard work and exposure lose all charm of youth very arly. The women are generally flat-faced, very dirty, and from prepossessing. They have, however, considerable acter and an important voice in household and all business ers. Toward foreigners they are timid, but amongst mselves their manners are playful, free and easy, and they ugh and sing at their work. Their outer dress consists of one apeless piece of serge, which envelops them down to their akles. Sometimes this is grey, more usually it is blue in lour, with a fancy bordering of dark red or yellow in front and ound the bottom. High boots of untanned leather encase eir feet and lower legs. Their hair is long and black, worn ed in the middle and collected into one large plait behind ; ‘ound the forehead it is worn in a series of tiny plaits orna- snted with coral-beads, amber-coloured stones, and small s. The large plait is usually wound around the head, ether with a piece of cloth to form a kind of padded turban, whole being decorated with shells and beads. Occasionally haped felt hats are worn. In holiday attire, silver rings d gaudy red and yellow tassels are added to their coiffure. y are very fond of silver rings, bracelets, and large ear-rings ni m ented with beads of turquoise and coral. In gala costume the dress is decidedly picturesque. i The men assist in tilling the soil, and in sowing and harvesting tf ‘crops, but the women do the bulk of the work around the homestead, the men being away herding the flocks or onjourneys. Though they lead hard lives they seem a happy and contented people in spite of the fact that they are almost without exception afflicted with goitre. Their houses are built of wood and shale- Toc tks, being either one-storied, flat-roofed, with or without a aised part behind, or, as is more usual, two-storied and in iil: y roofed. They count their wealth in head of cattle, horses, and sheep. Wheat, barley, and peas are the staple Kes 9s. Meat, butter, and milk enter very largely into their diet. ittered tea is generally drunk, but they are very partial to ME = wm = oO | — 7 le ms = a 148 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA a kind of small beer which they brew from barley ; they are als fond of Chinese wine. Monogamy is the rule, but polygamy is common, it being merely a question of wealth. Polyandry is not practised, bu the morals are lax, as is the case everywhere else under Lamaism Marriage is by consent on the part of the girl, presents of oxet and sheep being made on behalf of the bridegroom to the girl’ parents ; children are appreciated, but the Sifan are not ¢ prolific people. The second son generally enters a lamase: as is customary throughout Thibet. Widows are permitte to remarry. The dead are disposed of by burial or by beir thrown into the rivers. Abundant signs of Lamaism are everywhere < Prayer-flags flutter from the housetops, mountai across streams, and surmount cairns of rocks. Mani-stones | heaped by the wayside ; praying-wheels, turned either by ha: by the wind, or by the currents of streams, occur on all side From the people at their work, either in low crooning tones in loud chorus, the mystic hymn, ‘‘Om mani padmi hom,” continually ascending to heaven. The chant of the Sifan decidedly musical, rising and falling in soft rhythmic cadene I have often listened to them with much pleasure, though a distance, since if one tried to approach closely they ran hel skelter away. They are naturally very superstitious, fond of charms, afraid of evil spirits, and reverence unt natural phenomena. Though my associations with the Sif were brief I always received the utmost courtesy at their har and found much that was pleasing and interesting among tk happy, unsophisticated children of Nature. CHAPTER XII THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND ‘THE MARCHES OF THE MANTzU” T is impossible to define, with any approach toaccuracy, the political boundary between Szechuan and Thibet. Indeed, A no actual frontier has ever been agreed upon, consequently it does not exist, except at one point, on the highway leading from Tachienlu, via Batang, to Lhassa. There, on the Ning- thing shan, three and a half days’ journey west of Batang, stands a four-sided stone pillar, some 3 feet high, having been erected im A.D. 1728. The guide-book to Thibet says: “ All to the east under Peking; the territory to the west is governed by assa.”’ As to the regions north and south of this stone, 10thing is said. q For all practical purposes the Min River, from Sungpan Ting nthe north-west to Kuan Hsien, maybe regarded as the frontier thereabouts. From Kuan Hsien southwards an imaginary line Irawn through Kiung Chou, Yachou, Fulin to Ningyuan Fu, nC thence to the Yangtsze River, may be accepted as com- sting the frontier line. This constitutes a well-defined esiastical boundary between the peoples. Also it corre- sponds very closely with the western limits of the Red Basin, which constitutes an unmistakable physiographical frontier. itis true that at certain points, such as Lifan Ting, Monkong Ting, Tientsuan Chou, and Tachienlu, the Chinese have suc- beeded in establishing trading-centres and military depots. But in all these places the population is mixed and the centres hemselves surrounded on two or more sides by non-Chinese reople. West of the boundary here indicated the Chinese secupy a very limited aggregate area, being confined to the igh roads and to a few valleys suitable for rice and maize culti- hae. 149 150 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA vation. The largest of these areas is the region known as the Chiench’ang Valley, of which the city of Ningyuan Fu is the capi tal. This narrow strip extends down to the Upper Yangts: River, being bounded on the east by the independent kingdom of Lolo, which occupies the higher slopes of the Taliang and has never been conquered by the Chinese. Immediatel: to the west of thevalley the country is peopled bysemi-indepet dent tribes akin to the Thibetans, Indeed, the Min River, such land to the immediate west suited to rice-culture, m well be regarded as the real boundary of western Szechuan fre Sui Fu on the Yangtsze River to Sungpan Ting, in the ext: north-west corner of the province. An arc-line, commer at Sungpan Ting and connecting with the boundary west of Batang, thence southwards, skirting the right b the Drechu (Upper Yangtsze), would form roughly the b of Thibet proper. Nominally the whole of this region i is sidered by the Chinese part of Szechuan province. Inc books and maps parts of this region ane Sestee ae Thibet, and much confusion has arisen from this n The country included within the boundaries tenet constitutes the hinterland between Szechuan and Thibet, # failing a more lucid term it may be designated the “‘ Chit Thibetan borderland,” a title which, if clumsy, has the me of being both descriptive and accurate. Several trade re traverse this borderland, but with one exception pees been little travelled by foreigners—the exception b . great highway between Chengtu Fu and Lhassa De, crosses this region from Yachou, via Tachienlu and E to the boundary, and is closely controlled by Chihenii from this highway and the country in its immediate “ in as far west as Tachienlu, the whole borderland is very r terra incognita. It is made up of a series of stupendous m tain ranges, separated by narrow valleys, well —— lower parts with all the higher peaks extending 1 | he hey 154 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA side of Europe. Mulberry trees, the Cudrania tricusf and tall-growing Bamboos are common up to 4500 altitude. Many of the shrubs found growing in these spinescent and nearly all are adapted to withstand ¢ In the majority the leaves are very small or ome dense felt of hairs. These shrubs are usually scrubby in app ance yet many produce ornamental flowers or fruit. Th “‘ Southernwood ”’ (Artemisia spp.), with silver-grey, elegan dissected foliage and yellow flowers, are perhaps the comme shrubs met with hereabouts. Barberries are another sf feature, and when laden with masses of red fruit and aut tinted foliage present a most attractive picture. This remark applies to various species of Cotoneaster, all hay ornamental fruit. Many kinds of Rose occur, but often species are local. Common to all these valleys, though mi abundant in that of the Yalung, is Rosa Soulicana, with fragra flowers, opening sulphur-yellow and changing to white. also is Miss Willmott’s charming rose (R. a its abundant oie prickles, neat Vv rosy-pink flowers, and orange-red fruit. The beautiful Hugonis is confined to a narrow stretch of the Min Val between 3000 to 5000 feet. This is the only rose with yell flowers I have met with in China. The fruit is and falls very early. R. multibracteata, an odd-looking having pretty pink flowers, is very common in the up reaches of the Min Valley and less so in that of the Tu Forms of the Musk Rose (R. moschata) and of R. sericea o but are local. With the exception of the “ Southernwoox all these shrubs confine themselves closely to wat courses. In more arid places Caryopteris incana and ber species, with intense blue flowers opening in late Ju very abundant, so also are different species of adigoll with pink to red-purple flowers. Several species of Buddle and two varieties of the lovely Clematis glauca, with glaucou foliage and top-shaped, yellow, passing to bronze-colour flowers, ought not to be overlooked. The shingly and san foreshores are covered with Willow, Sallowthorn, and Fal: Tamarisk (Myricaria germanica). In the Tung Valley, b A PRICKLY PEAR (OPUNTIA DILLENII) NATURALIZED THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 155 and 5000 feet altitude, a “ Prickly Pear” (Opuntia ein has become naturalized. This American colonist has made itself very much at home, covering many miles of en rocky slopes. It grows 6 to ro feet tall, and when covered with its yellow or pale orange flowers is very orna- om ental. The edible nature of the fruit is well known to the pia but is little esteemed. An extract obtained by boiling e fleshy stems is locally employed as a supposed cure for emorrhoids. Amongst the coarse grass and scrub, the dominant features of these regions, a variety of showy herbs occur, nearlyall having bous or thickened rootstocks in some form or other. To garden lovers everywhere these valleys are of special interest, 2 nasmuch as they are the home of many beautiful Lilies. seth of these valleys has species or varieties peculiarly its , which range up to about 8000 feet altitude, yet whilst local these Lilies are numerically extraordinarily abundant. a late June and July it is possible to walk for days through ‘a veritable wild garden dominated by these beautiful flowers. In the Min Valley the charming Lilium regale luxuriates 1 rocky crevices, sun-baked throughout the greater part of ae year. It grows 3 to 5 feet tall, and has slender leaves crowded on stems bearing several large funnel-shaped flowers, red-purple without, ivory-white suffused with canary-yellow within, often with the red-purple reflected through, and is sliciously fragrant. In the Tung Valley, Mrs. Sargent’s “Lily (L. Sargentia), a taller growing species than the foregoing, with broader leaves, having bulbils in the axils, equally hand- | some flowers of similar shape, but varying from green to red- _ purple without and from pure white to yellow within, is very abundant in rocky places among grass and scrub. The ers of this species are collected, boiled, and dried in the sun, then minced, fried with salt and oil, and eaten in the same ‘way as preserved cabbage. The bulbs of the Tiger Lily L. tigrinum) and its elegant ally, L. Thayere, which are white, are cooked and eaten. Several other Lilies abound in these valleys, including the lovely L. Bakerianum and other "species not yet named. A herb very common in the Tung Valley is Thalictrum 156 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA dipterocarpum. This Meadow-rue grows 6 to 8 feet tall, has elegant, much-divided foliage, and multitudinous, large, lavender- purple flowers—by common consent the handsomest member of its family. In the Min and Tung Valleys, but very local, Incarvillea Wilsonii, which grows nearly 6 feet tall and b handsome flowers very like those of J. Delavayi, occurs. Th plant is monocarpic and has not yet flowered in cultivation, although I introduced it into the Veitchian nurseries as lon ago as 1903. Salvia Przewalskii, with large purple flowers, is another striking herb common in the valleys above 80¢ feet altitude. This list of ornamental herbs could easily be extended if any useful service would be served thereby. Or bare rocks various species of Selaginella abound; the Mulleé (Verbascum Thapsus), Deadly Nightshade (Hyoscyamus r) and Thornapple (Datura Stramonium) are common weeds by the wayside. The poisonous properties of the two last name are well known to the natives. From this brief sketch it be seen that these narrow, dry, almost desert-like valleys, wit! their abnormally warm climate, possess a flora which, if limite in number of species, contains many plants of more passing interest and horticultural value. As mentioned earlier (p. 149), this hinterland is peor by various independent and semi-independent tribes abou which little is known. The whole region is analagous vi th that separating India and Thibet, and this statement of f will perhaps convey a more intelligible idea than the m voluminous details. These tribes are divisible into fou distinct groups, in accordance with their official status an form of government. - 1. States independent, non-tributary, hostile to both Chinese and Lama authority, as the Lolo kingdom. I have : intimate acquaintance with the Lolo—a people once over much of Yunnan, but now relegated to the region of t Taliang shan, where they have never been conquered by tl Chinese. This race possesses a written language pci itself and is probably indigenous. a 2. States really independent and even hostile toward C ning directly controlled by the Dalai Lama and Council, whose poli is supposed to be modified by High Commissioners appointec sprea THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 157 ¥ by China, as, for example, Chantui, Derge, and Sanai. The | itory occupied by these tribes is west of the Yalung River | | =e contiguous to that of Thibet proper; the people are in- : inguishable from those inhabiting anterior Thibet generally. more western regions have been styled the “ Thibetan ches.”” Some four years ago, an acting viceroy of Szechuan, 2 Chao firh-féng, was appointed Warden of these Marches. 4 Vith an army of Chinese soldiers he indulged ina most aggressive policy and speedily subjected the whole region to Chinese con- i trol. He broke the Lama power, destroyed the principal ‘Tamaseries, and beheaded the abbots and other dignitaries. s task was rendered fairly easy owing to affairs in Lhassa, i consequent upon the British expedition to that city, and the ight of the Dalai Lama, the whole making impossible any ¢ oncerted action by Lhassa De in su of their adherents n the Marches. (In rgrr Chao Erh-féng was appointed Viceroy of Szechuan and was subsequently murdered in _Chengtu city by Chinese revolutionists.) _ 3. States tributary-controlled, governed by hereditary ative princes and subject to the Viceroy of Szechuan in ee affairs, but more or less strongly influenced by the : i Lama, owing to Lamaism being the accepted religion. | ; ae the kingdom of Chiala, the Horba states, and the ‘Chiarung tribes are the chief. They occupy most of the territory between the Min and Yalung Rivers north of a line sonnecting Yachou with Tachienlu and Hokou. The Chiala Kingdom I shall deal with separately when describing Tachienlu, ‘the capital city. The Chiarung are dealt with in the next 4. A number of very small states, governed by quasi- ‘independent chiefs, indirectly controlled by Chinese officials appointed for that purpose and by the surrounding tributary ‘Kingdoms. They are, in fact, tiny buffer areas very useful to the Chinese in maintaining the balance of power among the ug ger, more independent kingdoms. Many of these princi- are made up of people who may reasonably be looked _upon as remains of the aboriginal population of parts of uan and this hinterland. These petty states are F scattered through the more easterly parts of this hinterland 158 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA from Mao Chou in the north through the Chiench’ang Val to borders of Yunnan province. The power exercised the chiefs varies according to their proximity to nick populated Chinese districts or otherwise. In the former is almost nominal, whereas in the latter case it is considerable. In addition to the above are certain feudal states whe overlord owes his office directly to Chinese influence, and is bound, if called upon, to render military service to Chin These feudal chieftainships are hereditary and were originall bestowed as rewards for assistance rendered to the Chinese i breaking up the Chiarung confederacy during the reign of t Emperor Kienlung. Many of these, for example the Tsé ka-lao chief, have very considerable power and influence ii the temporal affairs of the surrounding tributary-controllet kingdoms. ee Ae ae ack ee L the Chiarung tribes. All the chiefs of these feudate states and tributary kingdoms are closely related by in matriage. The Chinese designate the inhabitants of this borde: “ Mantzu,” a contemptuous term signifying “‘ Barbarian ”’ of no ethnological value whatever. But the policy they k pursued in dealing with these people has been shrewdly wi : unscrupulous. With srum'and. sioney: the Chane dis played their power and obtained what practically amounts t suzerainty over the whole borderland. A former emp ro said: ‘‘ Wardens of the Marches should seek to checkmate th native tribes by becoming intimately acquainted with them am their customs and thus able to prevent any united action. If this way the tribes will remain weak andeasy tomanage. The should be encouraged to appeal to Chinese authorities fe advice and protection in their disputes with one anc e These authorities will, of course, be in no hurry to settle th cases. If the tribes are taught to fear the Chinese, and tl officials act with energy, all trouble will be avoided.” 1! crafty advice has long been acted upon by the Chinese, v much success from their own view-point. az From this brief and very incomplete general account may be gathered that this hinterland is a fascinating region , THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 159 oresenting ethnological and other problems of great interest, ‘solution of which is worthy of the attention of Western scientists. It is hoped that a properly equipped expedition vill at no very distant date be organized and dispatched to survey and investigate fully this little-known Chino-Thibetan CHAPTER XIII THE CHIARUNG TRIBES THEIR History, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS ITHIN the limits of the Chino-Thibetan b \ \ : as defined in Chapter XII, from Sungpan Tae wards to Yachou Fu, and west to the Mar Upper Tung or Tachin (Great Gold) River, the territory is di amongst numerous cognate tribes collectively spoken of Chinese as “‘ Chiarung.”” These people are essentially agr turists, making their homes in the upland valleys. They a though tributary to China, ruled by their own he dit chiefs; each tribe occupies a properly defined area, with own capital town, the political centre of the entire region t Monkong Ting. These tribes are non-Chinese and are indigenous to this region. They are also distinct from people found in anterior Thibet. They speak a difficult at first sound unpronounceable j jargon, which, if it be pes of Thibetan dialects, is widely different from that s Thibet to-day. But Thibetan letters have, without difficu been applied to it, and scholars, priests, officials,and mercha both read and speak the Lhassa-Thibetan language with grea or less fluency. F The origin of these people is obscure, yet there is good re to believe they come originally from the region around head-waters of the Tsang-po (Upper Brahmaputra R f and probably have common origin with the people of Ne and Bhutan. Personally, I am of the opinion that they ca over with Genghis Khan, or his sonOk-Ko-Dai,at thecommer ment of the thirteenth century, and assisted in the conquest western Szechuan. As a reward for military services rende 160 - - THE TACHIENLU RIVER THE CHIARUNG TRIBES 161 CORY ere Te pee. were given the territory they occupy to-day. During e course of time they waxed powerful, menacing the territory Bene east of the Min River, and even taking possession of : in parts. In Ming times the Chinese made war with them pesy occasions. They were a source of trouble to the achu dynasty until the famous Emperor Kienlung deter- : aed upon crushing their power. After a very fierce struggle lis was accomplished by a Chinese general named A-kuei. irst he subjugated the region of the Hsaochin Ho (Little Gold er), then, after much difficulty, he captured Lo-wu-wei odern Hsuching), the capital of the Tachin Ho (Great Gold er), took the king prisoner, and made a map of the entire ion. The king, named Solomuh, was sent to Peking, where, er a grand court ceremony, he was sliced to pieces. The quest was completed early in A.D. 1775. Military colonies e then established by the Chinese in strategic places, the fertile regions were confiscated, and Chinese settlers uced to take possession. In crushing this confederacy : Chinese were assisted by the tribes, being to some extent ided amongst themselves. Some of them fought on the inese side, and as a reward certain areas situated at strategic ats were fiefed out and established as feudal states for benefit of these allies, an overlord with hereditary control z appointed to each. The Chinese handled this campaign h consummate skill, and the administrative system estab- ed has remained unchanged down to the present day. power of the tribes was completely broken ; and the feudal tes and the military colonies have safeguarded the Chinese 2 any concerted action on the part of these people ever e. It will, however, be readily understood that the tribes thest removed from regions fully occupied by Chinese enjoy lay greater independence than those in close contiguity. ginally these “ Chiarung’’ had one common language, ba fee, isolation, and the dividing up into clans has produced \ jany very dissimilar dialects. These people are now split nab ato eighteen tribes, occupying very unequal areas of terri- ory, and though all are interrelated by marriage they are by ‘© mee s at peace with one another. Feuds are constant, id fighting among themselves is very much the rule. Since VOL, I.—II =O Py Ope rer ke 5 CO C-z R s : ee 162 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA this keeps them weak in power the Chinese policy is intervene as seldom as possible. On the map are im cated as accurately as our knowledge admits the positic occupied by some of these tribes and feudal states, It almost impossible to render into English the guttural sow denoting the names of many of these tribes. But, fortunatel the more important, namely, Mupin, Wassu, Somo, Damb Bati-Bawang, Wokje, are the least difficult to pronoun The whole territory occupied by these people is about ; miles from north to south, and 200 miles east to west at bre point. The population is about half a million. Two main roads, one from Kuan Hsien, the other f Lifan Ting, cross this region and unite near Monkong T In addition, a network of cross-country by-ways conr the various villages and states. 4 The Chiarung are essentially agriculturists, cultivat with much skill crops of wheat, barley, peas, br ; maize, Irish potato, and miscellaneous vegetables. She cattle, ponies, and goats are kept by the more wealthy, of in quantity. The horses are sold to Chinese traders, but wool is woven into cloth for their own use. Milk, butter, ; meat enter largely into their diet. They are also skilled gi and swordsmiths, more especially the Somo people, who ma facture most of these weapons in use among the tribes th selves and the people of eastern Thibet generally. Many also highly skilled masons, builders, and well-sinkers, such have a reputation even amongst the Chinese. August many visit the upper reaches of the Min River es year to take part in harvesting the crops ; indeed, for t purpose they supply most of the labour in that region. Of they are in request in Chengtu and other cities for sinking w and such-like work. af The Chiarung live in settlements of from several t hundred families or even more, always in positions z suited for defence. These settlements usually crown 4 bluff or eminence ; very often they are perched like an eag aerie high up on the steep mountain-side. The arch ite ec which obtains throughout is characteristic and peculiar. E settlement is dominated by one or more tall, chimney- MHA VE AO HOVTIUA HINOM HHI THE CHIARUNG TRIBES 163 s, either square, hexagonal, or octagonal in shape, 60 to 80 high, and resembling from a distance the stack of some ge factory in Western lands. The exact significance of these owers it is difficult to fathom, but it is evident that they can erve as storehouses, watch-towers, and harbours of refuge in times of stress and war. They have also some obscure con- nexion with religious matters, possibly in this they have some ‘remote affinity with the pagodas of China and Burmah. The ‘houses are more or less square, flat roofed, solidly built of ale-rock and mud. Those belonging to the chiefs and men property are three or four stories high. The walls are thick, erced with loopholes and several narrow latticed windows. all four corners of the roof turrets 3 to 4 feet high are built, smetimes there are more in different patterns. From these ‘prayer-flags are displayed, often with the green branches of Juniper. On the roof also is fixed an incinerator for the sacri- icial burning of fragrant juniper branches as incense. Part of the roof is frequently occupied by a hurdle-like framework ed “‘ Kai-kos,”’ 10 to 15 feet high, which is employed for ing grain upon. The rest of the roof is used for religious xercise, eating, sleeping, and recreation; in harvest-time it erves as a threshing-floor. The ground story is made up of courtyard surrounded by sheep and cattle-pens, the kitchen, nd usually a guest-room. _ The turrets, upper rim of the walls, edges of the window- yaces, base and base angles of the walls, are washed white, ommonly white lines stretch diagonally up the walls, and the vastika cross, with other devices and symbols, are displayed 1 white on these walls. Crowning the edges of the roof, or ‘arranged on separate structures, symbols denoting a globe, upturned crescent, and the swastika are commonly displayed. i lamaseries are similarly constructed, only larger, and usually with more stories. The houses of the peasants also are n the same plan, but of one or two stories only. All these ures are closely packed together with one to several towers reared above the whole assemblage. The different embl ems and symbols of Nature worship may occur in the sucture of Thibetan houses and lamaseries, but the tall is peculiar to the Chiarung. 164 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA Another interesting feature of these regions is the bridges. All these structures are of designs differing from those foun¢ throughout China proper, but agreeing closely with those i use throughout Sikhim, Bhutan, and Nepal, thus furnishin additional evidence of the affinity of these peoples. the smaller streams and torrents are bridged by logs < eK on a semi-cantilever principle, and call for no special remark. But the larger streams are crossed by suspension bridges con- structed of split and plaited bamboo cables. These bridg are very similar to the cane bridges of Sikhim and Bhuta : They are found throughout the territory occupied by the | tribes and the narrow strip of territory wedged in between the Min Valley and the western limits of the Red Basin. Th latter strip was formerly occupied by these tribes, and is to-¢ largely peopled by their descendants or half-caste Chinese. / mentioned in Chapter X, pp. 117, 130, iron suspension bridge occur in one or two places in the north-west corner of Szechuar This style of bridge is common from the valley of the Ya Ri and the Tung at Luting chiao, southward to the frontier « Burmah, and is probably of Shan origin. Similar bridges ¢ iron rods and chains are met with in Bhutan, where they a considered to be of Chinese origin (White, Sikhim and Bhuta p. 191). Throughout the Chino-Thibetan Borderland iron ar bamboo are equally common, yet it is a singular fact that the use in bridge-building is restricted to definite areas. 4 Cable or rope bridges are abundant throughout the ent region, and extend much farther west and south than the C iz rung territory. These simple but extremely useful structure consist of a bamboo hawser stretched across the stream usual from a higher to a lower point; if the stream is moderat narrow the question of incline is of less importance. T. hawser may be anything from 8 inches to 1 foot thick, a1 being heavy sags considerably in the middle, unless the strea is very narrow, as around Tachienlu, where a rather differer method of crossing than that about to be explained is in vogu To cross one of these cable bridges a person is supplied i a length of strong hempen rope hanging free from a sad shaped runner of oak or some other tough wood. The run clips the cable, and the hempen rope is fastened under a THE CHIARUNG TRIBES 165 Bound the legs and waist to form a “ cradle.’”’ When all is properly secured the person throws one arm over the top of wi runner, gives a slight spring, and glides down the inclined able at increasing speed. The impetus obtained in the down- ward rush carries the passenger over the central dip and more or less up the lesser incline on the opposite side. If the Momentum is insufficient to land the person, the remaining distance has to be traversed by taking hold of the hawser and hauling hand over hand. Crossing these bridges is fearsome work “until one is accustomed to it. It is speedily accomplished, and there is practically no danger so long as one keeps a cool head _and the ropes do not break. It is a common sight to see men with loads and women with children on their backs cross these bridges. But heavy loads are usually fixed to the runners and i hauled across by a rope attached to them. _ None of the rivers traversing Chiarung territory is navigable a the ordinary sense of the term, but skin coracles, broadly val in shape, descend certain stretches of the Upper Tung ‘River. These frail boats serve also to ferry over goods and ‘Passengers at certain necessary places. They are made of ‘cattle hide stretched over ribs of tough, light wood. The whole cle is very easily carried by one man, and closely resembles ures of the boats used by ancient Britons prior to the koman invasion. They are steered by a man seated in the ‘Stern operating a paddle, and accommodate about two assengers. A passage down or across stream in one of these es consists very largely in describing, more or less rapidly, ‘a series of wide circles and half circles. As a novelty, pro- active of excitement, not unmixed with danger, these coracles and cable bridges can with confidence be recommended to ev orld's Fair’ promoters and showmen generally. The skin is in general use at ferries throughout Eastern Thibet d the Marches, and is not strictly a Chiarung specialty. Tn height the tribesmen average about 5 feet 7 inches or ither more; the face is usually oval, with rather pointed hin, straight nose, sometimes inclining towards aquiline. ) They dress ordinarily in undyed serge cloth of local make, worn in the same manner as that of the Sifan. The legs hi swathed in felt putties; the head-gear is either a turban 166 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA or black pudding-basin-shaped felt hat. Those living r Chinese settlements and the highways have their head in p shaven, and wear their hair in a queue Chinese fashion. holiday occasions their garments are brightened with bordering, and high felt boots are worn. The women short in stature (about 5 feet), sturdy and buxom “8 omewha gipsylike, with dark olive complexions, and when pac often good looking. Their ordinary outer dress is a of grey native serge of no definite shape, reaching below the knee and bound around the waist with Tine legs and fect are bare coined ie Seta om they go bare-headed with their long black hair parted ¢ the middle and hanging down the back in one large ¢ They are fond of large bangles, ear-rings, etc., made of inlaid with turquoise and coral. On festive occ garments edged with red and very often made of blue cl are worn. The more wealthy dames decorate themselves ve lavishly with silver ornaments, and wear covering their h a piece of cloth held down by means of their large plait of he which is wound around and decorated with silver and bez of coral and turquoise; the lower part of the piece of el hangs free over the back of the neck and shoulders. T dames are women of character, and have a ruling vc household and family matters generally; also, from whi saw of them, they appear to conduct most of the busi These women lead a strenuous life; they cultivate the f tend the flocks, take the farm produce to market, Migs” \ and carry water. The domestic duties of cooking, mak and mending clothes and general household work ¢ upon the men. Yet the women are not unkindly t and are far from being down-trodden. Being of chee disposition, they seem well suited to the free outdoor ee lead, and laugh and sing as they ply their task. A themselves these people are frank and easy in manner, and t women enjoy a freedom of position unknown amongst Chinese. A party of dames and men were fellow-travelle with me once for a couple of days. When the time came separate they made merry over cups of wine; the we officiated, and cordially invited me to join them. With t yy o in pos THE CHIARUNG TRIBES 167 laughter and song they made cheery companions, and I was sorry to part from them. The families are small, but the children are usually strong and healthy. Girls marry between the ages of seventeen and twenty, polygamy is common, but polyandry is unknown except, perhaps, in the upland regions bordering Thibet proper. Temporary marriages, so general in Thibet, are also unknown amongst the Chiarung. Nevertheless, the standard of morals in vogue among these people is a very low one. In certain states hetairism precedes maternity. In Badi-Bawang the unmarried girls and childless women wear only two sporran-like fringes of woollen threads or pieces of fur, suspended from a girdle passed around the body above the hips. The legs are exposed, but the upper parts of the body are usually covered by a coarse serge garment. Only after their first child is born ‘may they wear skirts, since the gods have then purified them. A pregnant damsel selects from among her lovers a husband, who thus becomes the accepted father of her child, her word ‘in this matter being final. Maternity alone ratifies marriage, and indeed saves women from promiscuity. The defloration of virgins is the prerogative of chiefs and head-men, but is not ‘always exacted. In many ways these people are apparently ‘shameless, according to Chinese and Occidental ideas alike. It is no uncommon sight to see women of all ages, quite nude, bathing in streams by the wayside. This same custom is also common at Tachienlu, where the hot springs are favourite -bathing-places for both sexes. But after maternity the women ‘are said to remain constant ; divorce or legal separation after ‘ratified marriage are not practised. _ The explanation of the above and other curious customs ‘of these interesting people is found in their religious beliefs. Although orthodox Lamaism is more or less paramount the ia mysterious Bénpa religion, with its marked tendency toward phallic mcehip lurks throughout the lonely valleys of the I hia tribes. In Badi-Bawang it is the recognized state _ re igion. It should also be remembered that these regions Fi constituted the famous matriarchal kingdoms of Chinese : istorians. Indeed, even to-day, certain states have queens holding nominal or actual authority, and in these in some an ib at 168 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA capacity a woman must always rule. Occasionally he difficulty is overcome by styling the ruling head a “ Queen ” quite irrespective of sex ! J Lamaism appears in three forms, the Yellow, Red, and Blac the latter representing the Bénpa cult. The religious centre is Tsong-hua on the Tachin River, about 60 miles wen Monking Ting. But lamaseries are scattered over the | occurring separately by themselves or in association with ¢ residences of the hereditary chiefs. The Yellow or orthode sect is first in importance and numbers, and is controlled di from Lhassa. The ritual differs in no way from that pract throughout the hierarchy of Lamaism. The same ren applies to the unorthodox Red sect, which is of much | importance, and whose priests are allowed to marry. The Black or Bénpa sect has a ritual bearing an ou’ resemblance to orthodox Lamaism, but apart from this ther little else in common. In many things the Bénpa are the ave enemies of the orthodox. They turn their praying from left to right instead of from right to left; they sacred objects on the right instead of on the left ; also t refuse to repeat the mystic Mantra, “Om mani padmi k replacing it with one peculiarly their own. As to the origin this Bénpa it is difficult to say. My friend, Mr. J. H Edgar of the China Inland Mission, who has travelled < and studied these Chiarung tribes more closely than any one é living, inclines to regard it as the remains of the old Nz worship of Thibet, which probably underlies all the religic ; systems of Eastern Asia. q In the state of Wassu are several temples belonging to t Bénpa sect. Through the courtesy of the chieftain I e allowed to inspect some of these temples, and succeedet in obtaining fair photographs of the idols. These latter made of stone, wood, straw, and plaster, represent ¢ riant and demons with their female energies; the walls decorated with paintings depicting erotomania. aaa disgustingly obscene are the contents of these temples, where phallic worship holds unblushing sway. The Wassu ; informed me that the Mantra used by these Bénpa priests i ‘““Hom ma-te ma-tsi ma-yéor tsa-lien doo.” He kindly gave Ba: THE CHIARUNG TRIBES 169 me a copy of this hymn, but I have not yet succeeded in getting it translated into intelligible English. The principal symbol in use is the Fylfot or swastika, which they call ‘“‘ Yungdrung.” A mystical bird, ‘‘ Chyong”’ or “‘ Garuda,” is also regarded with great favour as an emblem of fruitfulness. In the Bénpa temples at Tung-ling shan, near the residence of the Wassu chief, I also recognized the image of Kwanyin (Goddess of Mercy), the God of Wealth, and many demons similar in appearance to those found in ordinary Buddhist temples throughout China proper. It would thus appear from the catholic nature of the contents of their temples that these people accept a measure of Buddhism, and Lamaism both orthodox and unorthodox, and the Bénpa in its entirety. An atmosphere of secrecy and mystery enshrouds the Bénpa temples, which are frequently built in places difficult of access. The cult has been subjected to much persecution at the hands of Lamaists, yet, notwithstanding, it retains a firmer hold on the people of most of the Chiarung states than any other form of Teligion. In their hearts children of nature, their daily life ‘one constant struggle against an inhospitable soil and climate to win a crop necessary for their sustenance, these people very naturally incline most toward the gods of Increase and Fecundity. CHAPTER XIV ACROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND — KuAN HsIEN TO Romi CHANGO; THE FLORA OF THE j PAN-LAN SHAN : ” URING the summer of 1908, when in Chengt, [ ) ierincgamen journey to Tachienlu. Previor 1903 and spain in 194 had ite eA different routes. This time I decided upon following tk leading from Kuan Hsien via Monkong Ting and Romi Chang The only published account of this route that I have knowle of is in a Report by Mr. (now Sir) Alexander Hosie,* ¢ H.B.M.’s Consul-General at Chengtu, who returiealeal Tachienlu over this road in October 1904. What is written this Report about the forests of that region created a de within me which nothing short of actual experience cou satisfy. Again, this route promised further acquaintance wi the tribesfolk inhabiting the hinterland. Sir Alexa: description of the road portrayed a difficult journey, but felt sure that by taking time and but lightly ot men I could get through all right. This confidence was f _ justified, as events proved, and what I saw of the forests a mountain scenery, together with the quantity and varie by plants discovered and collected, abundantly repaid me for fl hardships experienced. The journey is estimated at 1326 approximately 330 English miles, but, whilst mere mileage of little moment in mountainous countries, I should consid 250 miles a more accurate figure. a With Tachienlu as my goal I left the city of Chengt I the morning of 15th June, and at noon the next day reached 1Journey to the Eastern Frontier of Thibet, presented to both He Parliament, August 1905. 170 * - soe | ' fr a ee Axy ay ; a f éP Ly \, Saget Jpre ‘A BAMBOO SUSPENSION BRIDGE 70 YDS. ILONG ACROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 171 he city of Kuan Hsien. An afternoon sufficed to complete ny arrangements. The caravan consisted of eighteen carrying soolies and one head coolie, two chairs, two handy men, an scort of two soldiers, my Boy, and self, making a party of irty all told. The journey occupied twenty-three days from n Hsien. o "What follows is compiled from my diary :— _ The famous bamboo bridge, known as the An-lan chiao, over which the road to Monkong Ting passes, was having its annual overhauling; in consequence, on leaving Kuan Hsien we d to journey down stream some 5 li to a point where it was dssible to cross the various arms of the Min River by im- provised bridges and ferry. In so doing we had an opportunity of realizing, somewhat hazily be it confessed, what this area must have been like before Li-ping’s wonderful irrigation works ime into existence. Without counting the streams flowing Chengtu-wards we crossed five distinct arms of the Min River ‘oper scattered over an area a mile wide, covered with sand, shingle, and coarse grass (Miscanthus sinensis). The detour involved 15 li, and it was not until g o’clock that we were Opposite the An-lan chiao. This most remarkable structure about 250 yards long, 9 feet wide, built entirely of bamboo tables resting on seven supports fixed equidistant in the bed of the stream, the central one only being of stone. The floor of the bridge rests across ten bamboo cables, each 21 inches in circumference, made of bamboo culms, split and twisted together. Five similar cables on each side form the “ rails.” e cables are all fastened to huge capstans, embedded in masonry, which are revolved by means of spars and keep the bles taut. The floor of the bridge is of planking held down Dy a bamboo rope on either side. Lateral strands of bamboo ‘| cE og various cables in place, and wooden pegs driven ‘ough poles of hard wood assist in keeping the floor of the > in position. Not a single nail or piece of iron is used in BP eehole structure. Every year the cables supporting the or of the bridge are replaced by new ones, they themselves ing the “‘rails.”” This bridge is very picturesque in earance, and a most ingenious engineering feat. --From the An-lan chiao the road ascends the right bank 172 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA of the Min River, and is broad, in good repair, but with m awkward gradients. We found lodgings for the night ¢ Hsuan-kou, alt. 2640 feet, a market village of some 300 ho situated on a tributary immediately above its union with t main stream, which describes a very sharp turn on leaving narrow gorge. The Min River from the An-lan chiao to th point is full of minor rapids, and the current is very swif Near Hsuan-kou timber is made into rafts and floated down | Kuan Hsien, thence to Chengtu and elsewhere. During the day’s march we passed some good-sized trees: Black Birch, Nanmu (Machilus spp.), Hog-plum (Spe axillaris), and small trees of Cryptomeria japonica, the latt obviously planted. A large trumpet - flowered Lily abundant in rocky places by the wayside. Rice occur sporadically, but the principal crop was maize. Around 1 inn Tea-bushes are abundantly planted. On leaving Hsuan-kou we crossed the tributary by a smi bamboo suspension bridge, and ascended the left bank by easy road for 30 li to Shui-mo-kou. Throughout this st Cryptomeria iscommon. All the trees are small and obvi planted, yet I cannot rid myself of the idea that it must indigenous somewhere in this vicinity. It occurs scatter over a large area, always near habitations, yet it is scarce feasible to suppose that this tree has been brought Pas Jap for the purpose of planting it hereabouts. Shui-mo-kou is an ordinary Chinese market village of so 350 houses lining either side of the main street. It is inter ing, however, as being the last purely Chinese village in t direction, also the last place wherein supplies can be purcha or silver exchanged until Monkong Ting is reached. I hir an extra man, and all my followers laid in a stock of rice a food-stufis generally. At Kuan Hsien, appreciating fully” difficult road before us, I had reduced all loads to two-thi the normal weight. In spite of this the carriers were heav laden with extra supplies, and could hardly stagger along leaving Shui-mo-kou. ‘ A short distance beyond the above village there is a ste ascent, but after a few li the road becomes easy and win around the mountain-side. Scrub Oak and unhappy-look: NOMNVOASH AO HOVTTIIA AHI bs 4 ROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 173 ees of Cunninghamia are abundant, but the flora generally poor. Wild Strawberries cover the more grassy slopes, and ere laden with white and red luscious fruit. We passed a few : uses, and finally reached the top of the ridge, alt. 5600 feet, hich is known as the Yao-tsze shan. Crossing over we entered territory under the jurisdiction of the Wassu chieftain, ho resides at Tung-ling shan, near Wénch’uan Hsien in the a Valley. Descending by a path, which at first easy soon becomes ery precipitous and difficult owing to the abundance of loose ks, we reached Hei-shih ch’ang, our destination for the day, 6 p.m. In this descent, near the head of the pass, the Yang-tao”’ (Actinidia chinensis) is abundant, and was laden th a wealth of large, white, fragrant flowers. By the wayside, a microphylla is very plentiful, and bushes 2 to 4 feet tall e covered with large pink blossoms. One small tree of wrievia calycina, laden with curiously-shaped, waxy-white : borne in erect panicles, was also worthy of note. But ; flora generally has been destroyed to make way for crops #f maize, oats, and pulse. " Hei-shih ch’ang, alt. 4000 feet, is considered to be 60 li rom Hsuan-kou, and consists of three or four houses, situated a ravine alongside a torrent, with wild mountains on every ide. Our lodgings were roomy, and the people both courteous ind attentive. Rain fell heavily next morning when we started out, but ased about 9 a.m. ; the weather remained dull the rest of the day until 4 p.m., when rain recommenced to fall and con- tinued far into the following night. Crossing the torrent by 9 ae ans of a covered wood bridge the road immediately ascends ii mountain called Che shan from the abundance of h trees growing thereon. The ascent, though very steep, 7 , and afterwards for the next 30 li the road skirts the Jmountain-sides until the summit of the Chiu-lung shan is eached. Descending this ridge it ultimately enters a narrow valley. Here we found lodgings for the night in the hostel of Hoa-tzu-ping, alt. 6100 feet, having covered 5 o li during the day. Until reaching the valley the country generally was either LL© 174 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA under maize or covered with a dense jungle. The flora was passing interest only, being similar in character to that fow everywhere in western Szechuan between 4000 and 6000 altitude. The more interesting shrubs collected were a yelle flowered Schisandra, a white-flowered Clematoclethra, and t Yunnan Holly (J/ex yunnanensis) with small, neat leave clusters of purplish, fragrant flowers, and hairy shoot Actinidia Kolomikta, a large climber with white, oral flowers and added beauty in the shape of a multitude of whi leaves, is excessively common. Nearly all the species Actinidia and the allied genus Clematoclethra, other than t clothed with rufous hairs, have these white leaves, usually become pinkish as the season advances. All the spe are handsome climbers, and the majority bear very p juicy edible fruit. The trees of this region, though not numerous or of great size, include such remarkable subjects as Davidia, F styrax, Tapiscia, Tetracentron, Beech, and Horse Chest Occasional trees of Cornus kousa occur, and were a of white flower-heads enlivening the country-side. Wal trees are common around houses and wild strawberries the wayside. In the grassy valley the beautiful I/ex Per occurs with Rodgersia esculifolia and Lilium giganteum quantity. Around Hao-tzu-ping odd patches of maize cultivated, but where clearings have been made the gre is mostly covered with grass and coarse herbs. A During the day we met many men laden with huge lo of Teih-sha (Tsuga, Hemlock Spruce) and Hung-sha (Lan Larch) timber. These logs were dressed, and carried on wooden framework. I measured one with a tape; it w 18 feet 6 inches long, 7 inches thick, and g inches broad. It astounding how such loads are carried over vile mount roads. As fellow-travellers during the day we had tribesmen in charge of a small mule caravan of tea, bow for the state of Wokje. 4 After leaving Hoa-tzu-ping we soon reached the head the valley which merges into a narrow jungle-clad Tav After a precipitous climb of 30 li we reached the summit the Niu-tou shan, alt. 10,000 feet, where dense mists b ofl ACROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 175 tt the landscape. A similarly precipitous descent of 20 li brought us to Chuan-ching-lou, where we put up for the night. _ The flora was very interesting, but owing to a thick pall of uist I was able to observe only the plants immediately along- side the pathway. Perhaps the commonest shrub of the day as Salix magnifica, which is abundant everywhere, but more especially near the watercourses. This extraordinary Willow leaves up to 8 inches long and 5 inches wide, with ins 1 foot or more long. It forms a straggling bush 5 to ) feet tall and, except when in flower or fruit, would scarcely e taken even by the closest observer for a Willow. (I first scovered this plant in 1903, and in 1908 succeeded in intro- ucing living plants into cultivation.) Many other kinds of alix, varying from prostrate shrubs to small trees, occur on 2 Niu-tou shan ; indeed, this mountain is remarkable for its h in Willows (subsequently I succeeded in introducing to cultivation about a dozen species from this locality). e Actinidia and Clematoclethra previously noted again yabundant. Clematis montana, var. grandiflora, with large flowers, was a pleasing sight; so also was a Deutzia D. rubens) with pretty rose-tinted flowers. I saw no deciduous road-leaved trees of any size, but herbs were luxuriant every- here, especially the Rodgersia, which covers acres of the moun- in-side. The Conifers were the most interesting plants of the ay. In the ascent, save for odd trees of Silver Fir and ew, I saw nothing but Hemlock Spruce. This tree delights Smee, country, clinging to the cliffs in a most remarkable aner. In the descent, however, Silver Fir, Spruce, Larch, miock, and White Pine all occur, but the trees are being rapi dly felled, and no large specimens were to be seen. From Leta come the logs of timber noted yesterday. The (L. Mastersiana) is first met with below T’ang-fang, to400 feet, where it is common more especially to the right 2 road, and descends to 7200 feet altitude. _ Chahine, alt. 7000 feet, 50 li from Hoa-tzu-ping, E s of one large, dirty hostel, and three other houses, situ- ated in a narrow ravine, walled in by lofty mountains. A noisy tor rrent which descends from the Niu-tou shan flows past the Inn, and vegetation is rampant on all sides. The road over Reema OR PRET, TR ee ee ~ SS a SF a Pe Re rer Rite Say ee Se 176 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA the Niu-tou shan is difficult, and in many places dangerous Here and there steps have been cut in the hard soaks to assis the traveller, but in the main the road is strewn with loos stones and boulders—vile to walk on or over. We were unfortunate in the matter of weather, for it ag rained as we continued our journey. Following the torres through a narrow ravine for 5 li we reached Erh-tao chiao where the torrent connects with a very considerable strean which flows from the Pan-lan shan. The united waters form ; river which, after traversing very wild country, joins with th Min near the foot of the Niangtsze-ling on the Wénch’uai Hsien side of the pass. Turning sharply to the left at Er tao chiao we ascended the stream, which is called Pi-tao He and soon crossed over by a wooden semi-cantilever bridge 1 the left bank. From this point the next 25 li to vo is easy, going through a narrow valley where occasional b occur and a certain amount of cultivation obtains. Aboy Wu-lung-kuan the road becomes increasingly difficult, and | many places is execrable. The river is joined by numere lateral torrents, some of large size, and as the valley r into a ravine becomes an untamable, roaring torrent: . scenery, such as the mists permitted of our seeing, is savas and grand. Here and there perpendicular cliffs of limeston cropped out through the mists, their summits covered wi Pine trees. We crossed and re-crossed the torrent many time: and after covering 65 li reached Ta-ngai-tung, which was ot destination for the day. This hamlet, alt. 7600 feet, consis of one large hostel, which was in moderately good repair, and | completely surrounded by steep mountains heavily clad wit mixed shrubs and small trees, the upper parts being cover with forests of Conifers. The flora generally is very simil: to that of the Niu-tou shan, though scarcely as rich. All th Conifers except Silver Fir are present, though Larch only p in its first appearance near the hostel. At Erh-tao chia I photographed a magnificent Juniper tree, 75 feet tall, : 2 feet in girth, with graceful pendent branches, and a Blac Pine which retains its cones over many years. (It proved t be a new species, and has been named Pinus Wilsonit). Pine is common on the cliffs, but White Pine (P. A ACROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND | 177 er ae es” rare, although we passed the largest specimens of this tree I ve ever met with. Deutzia longifolia with lovely rosy-lilac- oured flowers, Spirea Henryi with yard long, flat sprays f pure white, and Neillia longeracemosa with rose-coloured vers were perhaps the commonest shrubs in blossom. ‘oplar is the only large deciduous tree hereabouts. Maple ;not uncommon, and near Ta-ngai-tung I gathered specimens a Black Birch having short, stout erect catkins. | Peasy next morning we continued our journey, spending he whole day toiling up the ravine through wild and savage, ¢ wondrous, scenery, with a profusion of vegetation on all Coniferous trees preponderate, the species being the ae as those previously mentioned, with a couple of new aces added. Yew is less abundant, but Larch much more though large trees are very scarce. To my astonishment Larch cones were ripe, and I collected a quantity of seed. . Poplar with large leaves, silver-grey on the under side, is ery common, and we passed some very large specimens. A tose with large bright red flowers made a fine display, so © did the pink-flowered Deutzia mentioned above. Two : dy-slipper orchids (Cypripedium Franchetit and C. luteum), h rosy-purple and yellow flowers respectively, occur, but are In the bed of the torrent Hippophaé salicifolia (Sallow- n) is common, and varies from dwarf spiny bushes to : B25 feet tall, the long slender foliage silvery-grey below rming a pleasing contrast to the brighter greens of surround- ies and shrubs. Many kinds of Maple (Acer), Linden ia), and Mountain Ash (Sorbus) are plentiful, and Tetra- miron sinense, an interesting tree exceeding in size all other ‘ duous trees of this particular region, occurs sparingly. lydrangeas, Spireeas, Honeysuckles, Mock-orange, Brambles, ; s, Actinidia, Clematoclethra, Viburnum, and other orna- ental shrubs struggle for possession of every available spot. le variety and wealth of bloom was truly astonishing, and low of no region in Western China richer in woody plants est traversed during the day’s march. tt e weather continued exasperatingly showery, but luckily ee eat quantity of rain fell, otherwise the route would have e Riapassable. Heavy mists limited our view, but whenever | a VOL. I.—12 = pe re are ae 178 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA the clouds lifted we saw nothing but steep mountair beetling crags or cliffs, bare here and there but mostly clot with mixed vegetation, giving place ultimately to fore of Conifers. The road is vile beyond the power of langua to describe. In several places poles have been fixed hi zontally into holes made in the face of the cliffs and half-rott planks laid on these to form a roadway. Such b exist are of logs, often rotten, and were always difficul cross. The river is simply a roaring torrent, cascading — huge boulders and madly endeavouring to escape t Savage regions. At one point it receives a torrent, judging from the colour and temperature of the dently comes down from eternal snows. During the day we passed a few miserable there is no room for cultivation, and the people are poor. We stayed for the night at Yii-yii-tien, alt. & 42 li from Ta-ngai-tung, where there are two poor I These unetul if enualid strusturds cee al oletaaaee r being one-storied, constructed of wood, and roofed with sh held down by stones. A portion is sectioned off as pri quarters for the family in charge, and near by the kite located. A series of bunks is built around all sides o place, the central part being occupied by benches for accommodation of loads. Travellers furnish their own supplies, since nothing is obtainable at the hostel e perhaps, some green vegetables in minute quantities. — for the night and a fire to cook food and dry clothing 2 these places afford. But the foreign traveller enjoys a wel quietude and freedom from curious crowds. A sound mi sleep rewards the labours of the day, and he awakens refre perfectly fit, and all eager to drink in more of the y scenery, the charm of woodland, crag, and stream. = At Téng-shéng-t’ang, 8 li beyond Yii-yii-tien, the ra widens out into a shallow valley, and the road boldly ase the grassy, scrub-clad mountains to the left of the st Hereabouts Barberries in great variety luxuriate. Aft severe ascent we crossed over a shoulder, and for the re the day skirted the side of a grassy ridge carpeted brilliantly coloured alpine flowers. a my. er ree Mi Le PRIMULA VEITCHII \CROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 179 i The main stream takes its rise in some snowclad peaks, : which we obtained a glimpse and a photograph, but a mnsiderable tributary flows down from the Pan-lan shan ss. The mountains to the right of this affluent, and also the right of the main stream, are forested up to I1I,500 altitude with Spruce, Silver Fir, and Larch. The bed ‘the valley is covered with bushes of Willow, Hippophe, nd Barberries. Up to 10,000 feet altitude Cypripedium weum is not uncommon on humus-clad boulders and in @ margins of woods. The flora of the grassy ridge leading up to the Pan-lan shan ass is strictly alpine in character, and the wealth of herbs truly amazing. Most of the more vigorous growing had ow flowers, and this colour predominated in consequence, ove 11,500 feet altitude, the gorgeous Meconopsis integrifolia, Mich has huge, globular, incurved, clear yellow flowers, overs miles of the mountain-side. Growing on plants from to 24 feet tall the myriads of flowers of this wonderful Poppy- t presented a magnificent spectacle. Nowhere else have I d this plant in such luxuriant profusion. The Sikhim cow- ip (Primula stkkimensts), with deliciously fragrant pale yellow owers, is rampant in moist places. Various kinds of Senecio, i us, Caltha, Pedicularis, and Corydalis added to the over- yhelming display of yellow flowers. On boulders covered with ras and in moderately dry loamy places, Primula V eitchit yas a pleasing sight with its bright rosy-pink flowers. All ¢ moorland areas are covered so thickly with the Thibetan ady-slipper Orchid (Cypripedium tibeticum) that it was 2 to step without treading on the huge dark red owers reared on stems only a few inches tall. Yet the most s ‘inating herb of all was, perhaps, the extraordinary vimula vinceflora, with large, solitary, violet flowers, in ye strikingly resembling those of the common Periwinkle a major), produced on stalks 5 to 6 inches tall. This - unprimrose-like Primula is very abundant in grassy lac The variety of herbs is indeed legion, and the whole e ee iry-side was a feast of colour. Silence reigns in these y alpine regions, a silence so oppressive as to be almost elt elt. and only broken on rare occasions by the song of some lark f My e } : . JIDDLD. eo: 180 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA soaring skywards. We flushed an occasional Snow-partrid and saw one or two flocks of Snow-pigeons, but bire generally was extremely sparse. Save a few voles and mice’ saw no animals, but Bharal and Wolves were said to ¢ ~ here, the former in quantity. Be After travelling 38 li we reached the hostel at FE yang-ping, alt. 11,650 feet, and remained there for the nig This place is part temple, part inn, and is kept by a priest, whose clothing and person water was evidently a stranger. — medicine Pei-mu (Fritillaria Roylei and other sp cies) common in this region, and as fellow-guests for the right | had a number of people engaged in digging up the tiny wi corms of this plant. Some Chinese traders also were th buying up this medicine at 60 cash per ounce. In Chet it is worth, wholesale, 400 cash per ounce, So their profi a handsome one. Among the medicine-gatherers were Sev Wokje tribesfolk, about 5 feet 8 inches tall, sturdily built, w straight noses and fearless expression. Two of their were with them, and had they been clean and decently dres they would have been decidedly handsome and attrac We enjoyed during the day a certain amount of sunshine. terrupted by occasional showers, but soon after our arriv: Hsiang-yang-ping it commenced raining in torrents, and tinued to do so far into the night. a It ceased raining before daylight, to our great joy. Ma an early start we toiled slowly over the dreaded Pan-lan crossing the pass in a dense, driving, bitterly cold mist. — ascent is nowhere difficult, and none of us suffered seric from the effects of the rarefied atmosphere, in spite of evil reputation this pass has for mountain-sickness. 4 ridge is narrow, razor-backed, the summit being compose sandstone, with marble embedded, piled up at an acute 4 and devoid of vegetation. Snow, unmelted from the wi lay in odd patches immediately below the pass, and or sides there was much fresh snow. The dense mists prev any extended view, but what little of the region was vi was bare and desolate. Two or three of the lovely Sr ow Grandala celicolor, were flitting around the snowy at their intense blue plumage contrasting remarkably wi ; 1 + F a A ROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 181 shit carpet around. I made the pass, 14,250 feet altitude, and he tree-limit about 11,800 feet. : The flora above 12,000 feet altitude is purely alpine and milar in character to that of the region around Sungpan and Isewhere throughout the Chino-Thibetan Borderland at the ae altitude. Meconopsis integrifolia occurs in countless isands ; also, to my pleasant surprise, the dark scarlet- ered M. punicea. Although by no means so plentiful as round Sungpan, there were many thousands of this beauti- ul herb scattered around. Primroses are most abundant ; *imula vinceflora ascends to 13,000 feet, where its place is aken by the lovely P. nivalis and another closely allied species. On crossing over I photographed the pass and then lescended with all possible speed to the miserable hostel of in-jén-fén, alt. 13,700 feet, where our lunch awaited us. 2 below this hostel a few bushes of Willow, small-leaved ododendrons, and Caragana spp. first appeared and ame abundant as we descended. Soon Larch and occa- al Spruce appear, and at 11,300 feet altitude trees are ‘ly numerous. A shrubby, evergreen Prickly Oak is char- } of these wind-swept mountain-sides, the golden- wn undersurface of its leaves rendering it most conspicuous. “sag is almost as beautiful as the Golden Chestnut of a a (Castanopsis chrysophylla), and I am very pleased to ae 1 its successful introduction to cultivation.) He n addition to the shrubs mentioned above, dwarf Juniper, pireea, and Sallowthorn alsc abound. This moorland country ery interesting and shows unmistakable signs of a drier than that enjoyed by the regions on the opposite side B.S ar a if Lo Ll! rom _A torrent which rises near the head of the pass is soon igmented by tributaries and quickly becomes a roaring un- ‘dable stream. The mountain-slopes close in, and at the tiny umilet of Kao-tien-tzu the road plunges into a ravine. The les of this ravine are wooded, Larch and Spruce being abun- nt, with miscellaneous shrubby vegetation. The elegant inga tomentella, a Lilac with branching panicles of fragrant ts, is very common. On issuing from this ravine we ed a tributary torrent, more turbulent in character than 182 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA even the main stream, and found in front of us open count largely under cultivation. 7 Our caravan was to have stopped for the ws, at | hamlet of Kao-tien-tzu, but with greater zeal than k pushed on 20 li farther to Reh-lung-kuan. This plun upset my plans and put all things awry. The collecting w had to be curtailed; it was 10 p.m. before I got any s and much of our work had to remain over until the morrow. The Pan-lan shan is the boundary between two Chiar states. On crossing over we quitted the state of Wassu a entered that of Wokje. The Wassu territory is wildly r tainous, well forested, and but little suited to agricaltunay consequence it is sparsely populated, and we very few of the inhabitants en route. The hostels and t on the main road are in the hands of Chinese or half-c The men of Wassu are tall (5 feet 8 inches or thereabo with large, muscular frames, frank, open countenances, are noted hunters of the beasts of forest and crag. The woi are sturdy, buxom, and engagingly frank. Both men women are darker complexioned than the Chinese, and, I sorry to say, infinitely less cleanly in appearance. The very fond of jewellery, both sexes wearing bangles of s and copper, and silver rings studded with coral and turqu The women also wear large silver ear-rings, usually hat insets of coral and turquoise. The men are addicted to opi smoking, though possibly this is strictly true only of t engaged near the main roads as porters and rete have come in close contact with the Chinese. Reh-lung-kuan, alt. 10,900 feet, is a Wokje village ¢ sisting of about a score of houses, a small lamasery, and a square tower. We found here a spacious and very fair | and the people were courteous and obliging. Our carr coolies were able to purchase opium and a certain ar e of food-stufis. This explained their anxiety to cover 7% instead of stopping 20 li short at Kao-tien-tzu. _ - On leaving Reh-lung-kuan we descended the right b of the river, which rises near the Pan-lan shan pass, for - to the hamlet of Kuan-chin-pa, a short day’s march b necessary in order to accomplish the work left over. encoun c. THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 183 fine and warm, with a strong, cool breeze. Looking back i our route the snows of the Pan-lan shan were visible the ’ hole day. The road was in good repair, and skirts the } mountain-sides well above the stream. In ancient times this ey was filled with glacial detritus, through which the strong T to: ent has cut a deep, narrow bed. This stream, known Ac ally as the Nei chu, is really the principal branch of the Hsaochin Ho (Little Gold River). Formerly gold in con- derable quantities was mined in this valley, and we passed aany old workings during the march. The country generally reminded me forcibly of the Upper n Valley, near Sungpan, above 8000 feet altitude. On the left bank of the stream the mountain-sides are very steep and Targely covered with woods composed of Spruce, Silver Fir, i‘ nd a few Pine trees. On the right bank the mountains are e sloping and mainly under cultivation. Wheat is the iaple crop and ripens in early August; buckwheat ranks next in importance, followed at a respectable distance by peas, beans, and Irish potato. The Wokje people are evidently d agriculturists and in their own way fairly well-to-do. _ The prosperous condition of this state was evidenced by the plenitude of large houses, lamaseries, and by the relatively ense population. The hostels, however, are all in the hands of half-breeds, descended from early Chinese colonists. The ger houses and lamaseries are usually perched on some bluff omposed of glacial mud, grits, and boulders. They are more | or less square, two-storied, with flat mud roofs, having small turrets at each corner, from which prayer-flags flutter; a nch of some kind of Conifer is usually in evidence near flags. Chortens and other Lamaist monuments occur here and there, while inscribed Mani-stones are common. *iTh peasants’ houses are low, one-storied, built of sandstone Shales, the roof either flat or with very slight slope. _ That the climate of this valley is relatively dry and warm ‘4s clearly shown by the flora, which is markedly xerophytic. 0 species of Cotoneaster, several Clematis, the Sallowthorn, Prickly Oak, Barberries, and Roses are the chief constituents. A curious Bush Honeysuckle, with small leaves and tubular, nite, fragrant flowers borne in pairs, is locally abundant. 184 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA (This proved to be a new species and has been named Lonicer, tubuliflora.) Another common plant is the shrubby Clemati Jruticosa, with simple oblong leaves and golden yellow, noddir flowers. A Lilac (Syringa Potaninii), with erect panicles ¢ rose-purple flowers, is another interesting shrub, plentiful ix this valley. Poplar, a Hard Pine (Pinus prominens), witl almost prickly cones, and a White Birch, the bark of which i used for lining straw hats, are the more common trees by f : wayside. I also gathered a few late flowers of Incarville Wilsonit. In a general way this Incarvillea resembles Delay species, but averages 4 to 6 feet in height. Another new p collected was a Primrose akin to Primula sibirica, but wit taller scapes and longer pedicels. q Kuan-chin-pa, alt. 9500 feet, consists of two small and poor inns, with the ruins of a large square tower near-by. a Twelve li below Kuan-chin-pa, and also on the right ban of the river, is the village of Ta-wei, a considerable place fe this region, boasting a large lamasery. This place has an e reputation, but no ill-will was displayed toward me. M Lamas clad in .claret-coloured serge crowded around an watched me as I photographed the village, and displaye much interest in my camera, dog, and gun. Neverthele the reputation of this village is well founded, and I would ac travellers to avoid staying overnight there. From Tz road leads across the river and over the mountains to Mupir On continuing our journey we followed the right ban of the stream for a further 27 li to Mo-ya-ch’a, where, owing an old landslide, it was necessary to cross over to the left bank This was accomplished by means of a wooden semi-canti ve bridge. Such bridges have been fairly common en route, this was the first our road had led over. From this bridge road descends the left bank, keeping high up above the river t Kuan-chai, which was our destination for the day. The who valley is very arid, though a considerable area was unde wheat. A few Poplar and Willow trees occur near the ri ' otherwise only high up on the mountain-sides were any tree discernible. The flora is similar to that of all the princip: river-valleys of this hinterland, as described in Chapter XI Rosa Soulieana is very abundant. I gathered several 1 _— THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 185 lants, but the country is too arid to be of much interest anically. "Situated at an altitude of 8500 feet, Kuan-chai is a small ge and the residence of the Wokje chieftain. The chief's is very large, the upper structure, all of wood, is well , and the whole is dominated by several tall towers, and + Walnut trees occur scattered around. The prosperous bedition of this little state was further evidenced during the ¢ Bay’ s march. Large houses are frequent, many being perched high up on the steep mountain-sides. Wheat is the principal “crop grown, and at Kuan-chai was just bursting into ear. “Maize and the Irish potato are likewise commonly cultivated. A little flax and Hemp (Cannabis) also occur, the oil expressed irom the seeds of these plants being in general use as an illumi- t. We passed odd fields of opium poppy, the plants being only a few inches tall. On the fan-shaped slope, at the head of which the village of Kuan-chai is situated, all the crops were remarkably luxuriant. At Ma-lun-chia a considerable torrent joins the Nei chu n the right bank. A by-road ascends this tributary, leading Fupien and thence to Lifan Ting. Our road was for the eater part good and we easily covered the 67 li, enjoying ght sunshine the whole day. | Immediately beyond the chief's residence the road mounts over a steep bluff, where is situated the hamlet of Hsao-kuan- hai. This place i is reputed to have offered a stern resistance o the Chinese in their conquest of this valley a hundred odd s ago, and was only captured after a long siege. The rc ins of the sangars and old forts are still to be seen. From th s point the road continues to wind along the left bank of e river for 40 li to the town of Monkong Ting. Both sides of : e valley are very arid, and the flora poor and uninteresting. a ey few houses occur in the valley, but high up on the moun- | tain-sides we saw many scattered about and surrounded by heat fields. At Laoyang the river is joined on the right bank - another of almost equal volume. The main road from Ting, via Fupien, descends this tributary stream and joins at this point the road we were following. From what little _we could see of the valley of this Fupien stream it appeared ; ' r : tk 186 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA to be as arid and barren as the one we had descended Reh-lung-kuan. Continuing our journey and on rounding a bend in the river, we suddenly sighted, perched on a rock promontory, the town of Monkong Ting. After passi through a gateway we noticed a separate township, ve prosperous looking, situated in a lateral valley a little to thi left of the main road. This is the official town of Monkong Ting, where reside the principal officials, civil and milita Crossing a torrent by a wooden bridge we entered the place first sighted from the bend in the river. This proved to b an old military camp of poverty-stricken, dilapidated houses scattered alongside a street about 100 yards long. Two hi dred yards beyond this camp we reached the thriving busines town known as Hsin-kai-tsze. Monkong Ting, therefe consists of three distinct towns or villages: (1) the officia town, (2) an old military camp, (3) the business town. A three are unwalled, though a gateway has to be passed entering each. The situation is most picturesque and strateg cally very strong. Monkong Ting is the political capital o this region and a place of very considerable importance. Th two Chiarung states of Wokje and Mupin have their boundari at this point, and the rest of the valley to Romi Chango divided into feudal states. The streets of Hsin-kai-tsze were thronged with p chiefly tribesfolk, selling medicines and buying various art ick for their own use. They made a very picturesque crowd, if women being especially noticeable by reason of their ¢ of silver dress-ornaments, bangles, and ear-rings. The inns all crowded, but the head official obligingly secured a coup) of rooms for us and treated us with much courtesy and goot will. The people were naturally curious and grouped ther selves around us, but their manners were deferential. a Hsin-kai-tsze, alt. 8200 feet, is a most important medicir mart, being famous for its “ Pei-mu” (Fritillaria spp. ‘* Rhubarb,” ‘‘ Ch’ung-tsao”’ (a caterpillar infested with th fungus Cordyceps sinensis), and ‘‘Chung-hoa”’ (an Umbelliferc plant, possibly Ligusticum Thomsonit). All of these collected and brought in for sale by the tribesfolk. Musk at deer-horns also figure in the trade. } ACROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 187 _ Several roads radiate from this centre; one of these leads “ from the official town to Mupin, over the pass of Chia-chin shan, which was said to be higher than that of the Pan-lan shan and } surrounded by snow-clad peaks. 3 ___s The Wokje state preserved its prosperous appearance to the 4 end, and is evidently a thriving, happy little country. The _ people strongly resemble the Wassu folk, though possibly they are scarcely as tall and have slightly sharper features. The Chinese language is understood and in common use along the main road, where the people imitate the Chinese in shaving their heads and wearing a queue. Lamaism evidently has a strong hold on these people, judging by the number of lama- series we saw. | I had intended remaining a day at Monkong Ting, but owing to the crowded condition of the town decided to defer this ' holiday until we reached Romi Chango. The inn in which ' rooms were provided for us was crowded with persons who " were noisy over their cups and business dealings far into the __ night, rendering sleep well-nigh an impossibility. '_ Just outside Hsin-kai-tsze the road crosses over by a log | bridge to the right bank of the stream. This bridge was being repaired, and only two very uneven logs were in position. A thin rope was stretched across to serve as a hand-rail on the left side. Crossing was really dangerous, the waters ' below being deep and turbulent. The official kindly provided local experts to carry our gear over, and the way these men __ accomplished the task filled me with admiration. I rewarded _ them with 1o0o cash, to their astonished delight. My dog ' was lashed firmly to a flat board and carried across on a man’s | back. He struggled violently, and the man only just managed _ to get him over before he got half loose. I walked over behind _ the dog and was relieved when the 30 yards across the yawning _ gulf were safely passed. Everything came over all right, but “my followers clung to the local men like grim death, the majority shaking in their nervous fright. Such dangerous _ experiences are not desirable, and I heartily hoped that we had no more such bridges to cross. From this bridge we _ descended 60 li to the hamlet of Shéng-ko-chung, alt. _ 7600 feet, through arid country and over a bad road. The 188 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA river is here a broad and turbulent stream, flowing between steep banks composed of loose rocks. A few Poplar, occasional Cypress (C. torulosa), and the Keelreuteria (the was covered with masses of small yellow flowers) are the trees of note. The region is very sparsely populated, high up, on the left bank more especially, are a few houses 0 the same architecture as those of Wokje. As travelling companions during the day we had a p of tribesfolk, chiefly women in holiday attire. They were very cheerful, laughing and singing most of the time. On parting company at Shéng-ko-chung they made merry over cups of Chinese wine, the dames officiating as to the manner born. — It rained heavily during the night, and it was cool ne delightfully fresh in the morning when we recommenced ¢ journey down the valley of the Hsaochin Ho. Thirty li be Shéng-ko-chung we passed the large lamasery of Gi-lv coloured white and picturesquely situated on the right b of the river. Over a hundred Lamas reside here and & considerable authority over the neighbourhood. About 10 li beyond this lamasery the river suddenly develops into a se of boiling, roaring cataracts. The fury of the waters was mc fearsome to behold, and a wilder stretch of river is scare imaginable. Earlier in the day we had crossed to the bank, and just below the very worst bit of this savage wate we recrossed to the right bank over a rotten and most unsafe wooden bridge. Some 7 li below this point we reached Z : hamlet of Pan-ku chiao, alt. 7100 feet, where we foun accommodation for the night, having covered 70 li. Ja above the hamlet a torrent joins the river on its left b and up this lateral valley mountains clad with snow were plainly visible. Bridges are scarce and the few that exist look as if they had not been renewed since this region was conquered, well over a hundred years ago. One thing is certain, the cannot possibly last much longer: the two we crossed dt the day were all askew and decidedly dangerous. o. The district is rather less arid than that around Monkong Ting, yet the flora is very poor. Poplar is a common t — so also is the Keelreuteria, which was ? fine sight, with a wealth of flowers, and it evidently enjoys a’ dry, hot siteation? 7 AMUSVANVT ONOTIO “AHL } tb -} ACROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 189 Psub-shrubby Incarvillea variabilis and Amphicome arguta, _} both with large, tubular, pink flowers, are very abundant by _} the roadside. Other common shrubs are Bauhinia, Sophora } viciifolia, Ceratostigma, with lovely blue flowers, Ligustrum and Rosa Soulieana. On the cliffs Cupressus torulosa is dotted | about. Maize is the principal crop, occupying in season almost | ery inch of available land. Houses are fairly numerous, b F ‘but most of them are relegated to the higher slopes well above ‘the valley. The scenery in places is rugged and grand. In front of the inn at Pan-ku chiao limestone cliffs rear themselves # some 2000 feet, abutting on a cultivated slope where Walnut ' trees are scattered around. Crowning a bluff is a tall tower, and near-by another in ruins, telling of glories now departed. it On leaving Pan-ku chiao we descended the right bank of _ the Hsaochin Ho, some 42 li to the point where it joins the | Tachin Ho or Upper Tung River. This final stretch is little but one long succession of cataracts and strong rapids, he turbulent waters being thick with brown mud. High bare cliffs predominate, but here and there occur more or less flat fan-shaped areas under cultivation, with houses shaded by - Poplar, Willow, and Walnut trees. Diospyros Lotus, Hovenia dulcis, and the large-leaved Ligustrum lucidum are other trees common hereabouts. Maize is evidently the chief summer crop in these regions, but wheat is grown, a red, _ beardless variety, with stout ears, and harvesting was in progress. Rock-pigeons are very abundant, and were busily engaged i in exacting their toll of the ripening grain. ' After passing the hamlet of Yo-tsa we sighted on the »pposite (left) bank a large lamasery sequestered midst a fine le ove of trees. A little beyond this is the village of Tsung-lu, _ acurious-looking place, boasting of a score or more tall towers. _ Skin coracles are employed to ferry over to these places. ue The Hsaochin Ho is prevented from joining the Tachin Ho at right angles by a rocky spit which at times is evidently - flooded over. Marble and granite are common rocks hereabouts, - the latter being full of mica flakes which glistened in the sun. _ Ascending the left bank of the Tachin Ho for a couple of li, then crossing over a bamboo suspension bridge go yards long, we Soon reached the small town of Romi Chango. The whole day’s ‘ Be Ss a 8 190 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA journey was only 45 li, but owing to the heat and rough road we all arrived very much fatigued and in sore need of a day's rest. From all I could learn it would appear that the region in the vicinity of the river from Monkong Ting to Romi Chang after its conquest by the Chinese about A.D. 1775, divided into feudal states, and certain chieftains — : possession as rewards for services rendered during the s The chiefs, styled Shao-pés, hold hereditary office and directly responsible to Chinese authority for the good behavi of the people under their rule, also, if necessity arises, are bound to supply armed men to assist the Chinese c: Lamas alone are exempt from such military duties ; ordinar the people of these feudal states are agriculturists. Shao-pés are subordinate to the Chinese military comman¢ stationed at Monkong Ting. The two chief Shaoopla gi one at Monkong Ting, the other at Che-lung, a village in ¢ mountains, 20 li removed from the left bank of the och Ho and 60 li below Monkong Ting. Another : at Ta-ching, 120 li to the north-east of Monkong Ting ; fourth at A’n-niu, a place in the mountains to the south of the region controlled by the Che-lung Shao-pé. Beyond th original grant of territory these feudal chiefs receive no rewar monetary or otherwise, from the Chinese. The system hi much to recommend it and evidently works very well. It keep the Chinese authority supreme, while it allows the nat people to be governed by their own recognized chiefs. Th difference between the chieftain of a semi-independent Chiarun, state and a Shao-pé appears to be that, whereas the forme is an absolute ruler over a territory long hereditary « tribe, the latter is more in the nature of an alien ruling over ¢ tract of country fiefed to his forbears by the Chinese, after tl 1€) conquered this region and broke up the Chiarung confederacy. The territory occupied by these feudal states formerly belonge to the Chiarung tribes, and the people are principally derive from that stock. Chinese settlers have intermarried witl the natives, and in the vicinity of the main road the popu IT is mixed. The people living in the lower stretches of he Hsaochin Ho are an inferior race, of poor physique, anda abominably filthy. 7? CHAPTER XV | ACROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND Romi CuHAnco To TACHIENLU; THE ForESTS OF THE TA-P’AO a SHAN a poor, unwalled, straggling town of about 130 houses. It is without rank, but a magistrate, subordinate to the gp Fu, and a military official, controlled from Monkong ‘Ting, reside there. The town is really a Chinese settlement, Saated in the extreme north-east corner of the state of Chiala. t is built on the right bank of the Tachin Ho, at a point where 2 river, making a right-angled turn from the northward, is xined by a very considerable torrent from the west. The hin, a river 100 yards broad, with a steady current and muddy water, sweeps round majestically. High cliffs on the sft bank, steep mountain-slopes on the right, lofty mountains to the east and west wall in the town, at the western entrance to which a massive square tower stands sentinel. Chango is a very poverty-stricken place, with a small trade in medicines and sundries. It draws its supplies of rice, paper, and Chinese mmodities generally from Kuan Hsien, and everything is ph henomenally dear. This is only natural when the distance and iculties of the journey are duly considered. L A small road descends the right bank of the Tachin Ho, by ns of which Luting chiao may, with great difficulty, be Fy * : R OMI CHANGO, or Chango, as it is commonly called, is ! ‘th ned. A road ascends the right bank of the Tachin Ho d leads to the interesting Chiarung states of Badi and B Sivane, where the Bénpa religion holds full sway. Badi, the capital of these now united principalities, is only 60 li from ‘Romi Chango. The chieftain is dead, but his widow, assisted by a steward, acts as regent for her infantson. Badi-Bawang is 198 192 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA one of the ancient matriarchal kingdoms of Chinese historian and at all times a woman holds an important place in it government. Badi, the larger of the two states, is very ric! in gold, which, though unworked during recent years, i jealously guarded. Chinese visitors, rich or poor, are cross questioned as to their business and closely watched du their sojourn in this state. The Badi-Bawang folk often y Chango on business, and during our stay there we saw severs Most of them were peasant girls and women, dressed so scantil as to scarcely hide their nakedness. They were short i stature, and apparently unwashed from birth! However since these were “‘ hewers of wood and drawers of water” ¢ the poorest class, it would be unfair to judge the whole rag by them. _ In Chango we lodged at a comfortable inn, having a cl e ul room, well removed from the street and overlooking the rive! We spent a quiet day resting and refitting for the final tag of our journey to Tachienlu. The people were not ¢ inquisitive and those in charge of the inn were exceeding] obliging. Soon after our arrival the magistrate sent me we that he was suffering from pains in the stomach and vomiting and would be grateful for some medicine to relieve his suf ing I sent him some Epsom-salt and an opiate. The next ¢ word came that he was much better, only too tired to | his room. A traveller gets many such requests for medic and I have generally found quinine, Epsom-salt, and opium pi most useful cures, for which the people were always grateful. On leaving this lonely town of Chango, which I “a 6700 feet altitude, the road to Tachienlu ascends the right bank of the tributary torrent. We were warned that hes was very difficult, leading through forests and over high m tains. It was not long before these statements were ve ifiec L The torrent quickly develops into an angry, irresponsible stream; the road in many places had been washed away @ much wading was necessary. Our carriers had great difi culty in getting along, and had the waters of the torrent be vs 1 a few feet higher the road would have been quite impassable. All the bridges were rotten and most insecure. High up on the mountain-sides we saw several large hamlets, but there are very OONVHO INOW 10 NMOL AHL SOR ACROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 193 ew houses in the valley—quite sufficient, however, for when- ever the road led past a house we had to traverse an open ‘sewer, often a foot deep in dung and refuse. Such filthy surroundings are characteristic of Thibetan houses. The Chinese would collect all this sewage for their fields, but the ‘Thibetans, who are but poor agriculturists at best, have not ret learned the value of manure. At such places I usually climbed over the fences and walked through the crops, but my men waded through the filth and gave vent to their wrath in oud, angry imprecations. The people of Chiala are typical hibetans and use the lower stories of their flat-roofed houses as pens for horses and cattle. A few li above Chango the flora begins to lose its purely xerophytic character, and becomes more and more luxuriant as the ascent proceeds. The higher opes are well forested with mixed trees, but near-by the road ses are scarce. The mountain-sides flanking the stream are very steep, being often sheer cliffs. Such places are dotted with Cypress (Cupressus torulosa) and prickly leaved _ Evergreen Oak. _ After journeying 60 li we reached the village of Tung-ku, alt. 7800 feet, where there are several large Thibetan houses, . “decorated with prayer-flags, but only two or three hostels, and these very poor in character. The owner of the one we stayed & is a noted hunter, and many pelts of the Budorcas, Serow, andgBlack Bear were in use as bed-mattresses. His family to d us the hunter was away after Musk-deer; they also informed us that both the Thibetan-eared and Lady Amherst Pheasz sits are common hereabouts. Around the village J Wainut trees are most abundant. Wheat is a common crop fies nd was just ripening. Maize too was plentiful and is evidently ne staple summer crop everywhere in these regions. The next day we covered another 60 li, putting up for the “night at the poor hamlet of T’ung-lu-fang. We crossed the _ river four times by wooden bridges, each more rotten than the other. The river was in partial flood, and a goodly portion of | - the road was either washed away, obliterated by landslides, iF Or under water. Often we had to make a path for ourselves Be up the mountain-side. The under-water portions of the road traversed on the back of one of the soldiers we had with us VOL. I.—13 194 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA from Chango, until he stumbled and gave me a ducking. this I waded. There was no traffic on the road so called, I marvelled how my coolies managed to get their loads ale Our chairs were carried piecemeal and even then with difficult over the worst places. The river was a roaring torrent through out the whole day's journey, in places really awesome to bi hold, dashing itself headlong over enormous boulders, or boilii as if forced up by some malignant spirit. In many ease ou path actually overhung this torrent, and one false step m death. About ro li above Tung-ku the river makes a right turn and is joined at this point by another stream of al equal volume from the westward. From this = the r skirts the river through a narrow, savage, magnific wooded ravine. Maple, Ash, Hornbeam, Birch, F Hemlock Spruce, and Prickly Oak are the chief c ituen of these woods, followed by Evodia, Rhus, Cypreanit Elm, Sallowthorn, Bamboo, and miscellaneous shrubs. Maples (Acer Davidii and A. pictum, var. pa larger trees than I have seen elsewhere. The Ash and FE beam are all fine trees, and the Hemlock Spruce in many ca! over 100 feet tall, with a girth of 12 to 15 feet. —_ On leaving this magnificent fragment of virgin forest th country became less interesting. Where the cliffs are not shee and bare the mountain-slopes have been cleared to a ver large extent. The ravine widens into a narrow valley which 1 covered with scrub. The cliffs and mountain-slopes high are sparsely clad with Cypress, White and Hard Pine, Silver Fir, and Hemlock. The scenery is sublime. “it We passed very few houses and these of the meanes description. Very little land is under cultivation; Maize is the chief crop, with patches of wheat and oats here and there. The country is not suited to cultivation, and one mar- vels how the few people living there manage to find even most miserable subsistence. Yesterday we noticed herds of a small breed of cattle. The people are shorter in stature than the average, and perfectly proportioned dwarfs are fairly commo: . Since leaving Monkong Ting, goitre has been manifest « : the inhabitants, and in this river-valley it is very prevalent. ——_ - a ‘ Pda ue. ee : FORESTS WEST OF CHANGO, A POPLAR TREE IN FOREGROUND 4 xe ACROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 105 _ T’ung-lu-fang, alt. 8800 feet, consists of about half a dozen scattered houses. The one we stayed in is of Thibetan archi- tecture, fairly clean, and owned by a Chinese settler. None of these houses affords any bedding for the coolies, and of course nothing is purchasable—all food-stuffs have to be carried bythe travellers themselves. The people at T’ung-lu-fang informed us that we should not 2 able to reach Mao-niu, as the road had been badly washed ‘away in several places, and under the lee of some cliffs was flooded to a depth of 4 feet or more. This gratuitous and dis ouraging information proved, luckily for us, to be scarcely urate, since, after a struggle, we managed to get through. 1 ly head coolie declared it was the very worst road we had ever traversed, and I was inclined to agree with him. Worse it could not have been and constitute a roadway at all! For ully half the distance the track was under water or washed completely away, and we were forced to wade or make a new ath over the mountain-side. Just how we got over the 30 li Icannot describe, but we all came through with nothing worse than a severe wetting. _ Mao-niuis a fair-sized village for the country, and is mainly erched on a flat 200 feet above the torrent, and surrounded by a considerable area under wheat—a veritable oasis, in fact, ounded by high mountains. Formerly it was the principal a. age of a petty state to which it gave its name. It now s to the state of Chiala. As far as Mao-niu the scenery anc | flora is similar to that around Tung-ku and calls for no special remark. The outstanding feature is the woods of Hard = (Pinus prominens). The steeper the country the happier this Pine appeared to be. The bark of the trunk is deeply owed, often red in the upper parts of the tree ; the cones are quite prickly, and are retained for many years. The wood is | very resinous, and is evidently much esteemed for building : urposes. The Hemlock Spruce is common, and all the trees i are of great size. if if Be __ At Mao-niu the main stream leads off in a westerly direction | to Th’ai-ling, a large village of over 100 houses and several ies. It is also the centre of a considerable gold-mining } samme and has the reputation of being a lawless district. 196 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA We were informed that the road thither was in a dreadful stat of disrepair, and that most of the bridges had been washed away by recent floods. 4 On clearing the cultivated area around Mao-niu we plunge immediately into a narrow, heavily forested ravine, down wh a considerable torrent thundered. Conifers preponderate i these forests, Spruce being particularly abundant. We noticed some huge trees, but the average was about 80 to roo feet t White and Red Birch are common, and I was fortunate eno to secure seeds of the latter. The Sallowthorn (Hippof salicifolia) is exceedingly common, forming trees 30 to 50 fee tall with a girth of 4 to ro feet. The size of these trees ver much surprised me. Willows, Cherries, and different species « Pyrus are also plentiful. Deutzia, Hydrangea, Philadelpl Rosa, and Clematis are the principal shrubs, and many in flower. Primula Cockburniana, which has orange flowers, is the most noteworthy herb hereabouts. ail After wandering several miles through the forests reached the hamlet of Kuei-yung, alt. 10,100 feet, and 60 from T’ung-lu-fang. This place consists of half a dozen hot purely Thibetan in character, built on a slope and surrounded by a considerable area under wheat, barley, and oats. The mou tains all around are heavily forested with coniferous trees, : the far distance a snow-capped peak glittered on the ho . The house we lodged in is three storied with the usual 7 mud roof. The walls built of shale-rock are most s Entering through a low doorway we had first to pa. ay filled with cattle dung, then a piggery where a steep ladder le upwards to a couple of dark empty rooms in which we installe ourselves. A ladder from these rooms led to the roof, whei I should have preferred to sleep had it not been raining. Tk house boasts neither table, stool, nor chair, and we had t improvise as best we could. The Thibetans squat on 1 floor for their meals, and therefore have no use for table chairs. The housewife, a most cheery if dirty person, had ; very musical laugh. Things generally appeared a joke to and incited her to frequent laughter, which it was pleasant t hear. My followers were oddly amused at the strangeness « things, and appeared to enjoy the novelty. : a . ef: ul > = } ACROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 197 | Yet it was not out of love for our quarters that I stayed ; bs ver a day at Kuei-yung, but to photograph various trees and 7 investigate the Conifers. Photography in the forests is no am nere pastime. It took over an hour on three occasions clearing yay brushwood and branches so as to admit of a clear view f of the trunk of the subject. I secured a dozen photographs, which entailed a hard day’s work. The trees of Larch and other Conifers, Birch, and Poplar are very fine. The Larch (L. Potaninit), though not plentiful, is of great size, and trees ® 100 feet by 12 feet in girth occur. But the most astonishing feature of these forests is the large trees of Sallowthorn (Hippophé salicifolia). 1 had never imagined it could attain 0 the size of specimens I saw during the day. I photographed o old trees 50 feet tall, 12 and 15 feet in girth respectively. ' I saw others taller but less in girth. Another interesting tree ereabouts is a Cherry (Prunus serrula, var. tibetica), which has a short, very thick trunk, and wide-spreading head. The leaves are willow-like, 3 to 4 inches long; the fruit is red, ovoid, on pendulous stalks. The tree averages about 30 feet in height, the head being 60 feet and more through. | The next morning we bade farewell to our cheery hostess at Kuei-yung, and continued our journey. The road immedi- ately plunges into the forest, and winds through and among ' magnificent timber. The forests are very fine, and coniferous _ trees 100 to 150 feet tall, with a girth of 12 to 18 feet, are quite common. The latter consist of four species of Spruce, three of Silver Fir and one of Larch. The handsomest of the Silver Firs is Abies squamata, which has purplish-brown bark, ex- foliating like the bark of the River Birch. The Larch becomes A sneral in the ascent, and ultimately overtops all other trees d extends to the tree-limit. White and Red Birch, Poplar and Sallowthorn are the only broad-leaved deciduous trees ly common. An Evergreen Oak (Quercus Ilex, var. rufescens), h prickly leaves like a Holly, is abundant. In the shelter : the forests this Oak makes a good-sized tree, but in the “More exposed places it is reduced to a small shrub. The wood is very hard and makes the finest of charcoal. Shrubs are not ch in variety, but Bush Honeysuckles, Barberries, Spireas, nd Clematis are plentiful. Herbs, especially the Sikhim 198 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA cowslip (Primula sikkimensis), P. involucrata, Anemone, Caltha Trollius, and various Composite luxuriate on all sides, and th glades and marshy places were nothing but masses of color The men who were in front of me saw several troupes of monkeys and some Eared-pheasants, but I saw no animals at very few birds, We camped near the tree-limit, at about 12,000 feet altitue and erected a small hut of spruce boughs under a large S Fir tree. My Boy preferred to pass the night in his and the men arranged themselves around a log fire. Th neighbourhood has an evil reputation for highway robber but we felt sure there was small possibility of any attack o us being made. It rained a little during the day, and a sh; shower fell in the early evening, but the night proved f The altitude, however, affected our sleep; it was also vy cold, and we were all glad when morning broke. My dog suffered as much as any of us; he refused to eat his supper and I never saw him so utterly miserable. The pps 00ke a most woebegone crowd, shivering with cold and g¢ wretched. They seemed to have no idea of making th comfortable ; it would have been a simple matter for thea have rigged up a shelter of spruce boughs, but they were tc indifferent to do this or even to collect firewood. Wi with us from Kuei-yung, as guide, a Thibetan, and it was h who got together all the wood required for a fire. > There was a slight frost and a heavy dew, but the st which rose like a ball of fire, soon warmed us and dispersed t1 dew. The road is of the easiest, winding through timber an brush alongside a small stream, up to within 1000 yards of t head of the Ta-p’ao shan Pass, where the ascent becc vm steeper. It is, however, only the last 500 feet that m any pretence of being difficult. Above the place where camped the Conifer trees rapidly decrease in size, Lare becomes more and more abundant, and ultimately forms pur woods. It overtops every other kind of tree, and extends u to 13,500 feet altitude. Just below the limits of the Larch dwarf Juniper appears and ascends to near the head of tl pass. The scaly-barked Silver Fir (Abies squamata) ascend to 12,500 feet and two species of Spruce to 13,000 feet. Th ~ SUYHMOTA ANICTV AHHLO GNV AVAGNVXATVY NOAH ACROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 199 side of the pass enjoys a moist climate, and the tree-line (13,500 feet approximately) is remarkably high. Above the tree-line the mountain-sides, to within a few hundred feet of the pass, are covered with scrub composed, as usual in # these regions, of Willow, Berberis, small-leaved species of Rhododendron, Spirea, Juniper, Potentilla Veitchit, P. fruticosa, @ and Rhododendron Przewalskii, the latter being the most } alpine of all the large-leaved members of its family. Herbs, 7 of course, made a wonderful display of colour. In addition to those previously mentioned, other species of Primula, the yellow and violet-blue Poppyworts (Meconopsis integrifolia and M. Henrict), various Stone-crops.(Sedum spp.), and Saxi- frages are abundant. But the most striking of all the herbs a Rhubarb (Rheum Alexandre), an extraordinary plant, with a pyramidal inflorescence 3 to 4 feet tall, arising from a mass of relatively small, ovate, shining, sorrel-like leaves, _and composed of broad, rounded, decurved, pale yellow bracts _ overlapping one another like tiles on a house-roof. The local : of this plant is ‘‘ Ma Huang” (Horse Rhubarb); it ‘prefers rich boggy ground where verdure is luxuriant and yak delight to feed. Such places were studded with its most conspicuous tower-like spikes of flowers. The Rhubarb and . ewe Poppywort (Meconopsis integrifolia) are always most Tampant around places where yak have been herded. Unmelted snow of the preceding winter was lying in tches just below the summit of the pass, a bare, narrow ridge _ crowned by a cairn of stones surmounted with many prayer- _ flags, and 14,600 feet above sea-level. This narrow neck is _ composed of slate and sandstone, with a certain amount of iproarble rock scattered about, and connects two massive ranges with eternal snows. The day was gloriously sunny, and _ we had a rare opportunity of enjoying and appreciating the delights of this alpine region. Except for a feeling of giddi- ness when stooping, and a general shortness of breath, I Suffered no inconvenience from the altitude. In spite of their _ loads only two or three of my men were seriously affected ; ~ the gradual ascent was, I think, responsible for our good fortune in this matter. From past experience I had rather _ dreaded the effects this pass might have on my followers, and f 200 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA was pleasantly surprised at the ease with which they r ated it. With the weather conditions so favourable the view fre the summit of the pass far surpassed my wildest dreams. greatly exceeded anything of its kind that I have seen, a would require a far abler pen than mine to describe it quately. Straight before us, but a little to the right of ¢ viewpoint, was an enormous mass of dazzling eternal sne supposed to be, and I can well believe it, over 22,000 feet h Beneath the snow and attendant glaciers was a sinister-look mass of boulders and screes. In the far distance were visibl the enormous masses of perpetual snow around Tachienl In the near distance, to the west-north-west of the pf another block of eternal snow reared itself. Looking b on the route we had traversed we saw that the narrow valle is flanked by steep ranges, the highest peaks clad with snoy but in the main, though bare and savage-looking, they se: attain to the snowline. On all sides the scenery is rugged, and severely alpine. A cold wind blew in gusts across the pass, and we were glad when our photographi work was finished, and we could hurry down. Several fin Eagles and Lammergeiers were soaring aloft, but we saw nm animals, though Wild sheep and Thibetan gaeclic were oat frequent this region. . Descending by a precipitous, break-neck path, over loos slate, sandstone shales and greasy clayey-marls for 15 li, ¥ reached the head of a broad valley. The pass on this offers a far more severe climb than the side we had ascenc¢ On reaching the valley the track we followed connects the main road to Th’ai-ling, Chantui, and Chamdo. Cc mercially speaking this is the highway into Thibet fro Tachienlu. It leads through grasslands, affording good pi age for animals, and though the mean elevation is very ¢ mn siderable the passes are less steep than those on the polit highway via Litang and Batang. This Ta-p’ao shan region i notorious for its highway robberies. We met five tribes nel who told us that in the previous night their camp had t rushed by an armed band and everything they DOS ss50 carried off. Every Thibetan is by nature a coded ACROSS THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 201 yehaves as such when he fancies he can do so with impunity. hey rob one another freely, but the tribesmen are their avourite victims. From the head of the valley to Hsin-tientsze, the first 1abitation, is reckoned as 30 li. The road is broad but uneven, vinding through a valley, and keeping close to a torrent which lescends from the Ta-p’ao shan snows. The mountains on Hither side of the valley in all their higher parts range above the snowline; their lower slopes are covered with grass, mall Conifer trees, and brushwood. In the valley itself shrubs wf large size, chiefly Willows, Honeysuckles, Barberries, and Sallowthorn abound. Odd trees of Larch and Spruce occur, l of small size. Flocks of Snow-pigeons were plentiful, and [ shot several of these birds for our larder. _ From Kuei-yung, 120 li, there is no house of any descrip- tion save Hsin-tientsze, alt. 10,800 feet, a filthy and miserable ostel. Near Kuei-yung we passed a charcoal-burning camp e a few men were engaged, otherwise we did not meet a bing soul, until we had crossed the pass. It is indeed a ost lonely region, but of great interest to a Nature lover. I unt myself particularly fortunate in being favoured by per- eee or crossing the pass, more especially as it was the it day without any sign of rain since leaving Kuan Hsien. _ The thermometer registered 36° F. when we turned out xt morning, and our ears and fingers tingled with cold, even ough it was 8th July. The smoke inside the inn was too ach for my eyes, so I breakfasted out in the middle of the adway. I think everybody was glad to quit Hsin-tientsze th its vermin and stinks. There was an odd patch of wheat round the hostel, but it looked miserable ; the season is too ort and the climate too severe for cultivation hereabouts at is altitude. ; q We followed a broad, uneven road, which had suffered ‘n uch from animal traffic, for 60 li to Jé-shui-t’ang (Hot-water pond), alt. 9800 feet. The descent is gradual, and the day’s journey proved a delightful loiter through a shrub-clad valley. /We met several hundreds of yak and ponies, all laden with brick tea encased in raw hides and bound for interior Thibet. he Thibetans in charge were an unkempt, wild-looking lot 7 ~ a4 8 ee ee - ae page = _& 202 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA of men, with long guns, swords, and conspicuous charm-box Many of them wore their hair in a long plait with a sort of blac yarn braided in, the whole being wrapt around their nee form a turban ; a few wore felt hats with high conical crowns One or two women were with these caravans ‘endian animals exactly in the same way as the men. Ability © whistle and heave rocks with sure aim seemed to be the e l parts of a yak-muleteer’s profession. Yak are slow, phlegmat animals, and on sighting any unusual object they stand stoel still for a little time, and then make a mad rush forward. The appeared to be docile enough, but their long horns look dangerously ugly, and we got out of their way as much as wz possible. Each caravan was accompanied by one or mo large dogs. These animals trot alongside the caravan and ta no notice of any one, but when tethered and on guard in ca will allow no stranger to approach. They are massively-bu dogs, and their savage appearance is heightened by a hn red-coloured collar of woollen fringe, with which they a commonly decorated. a The flora was merely a repetition of that of the p afternoon’s journey. The valley and contiguous h sia covered with scrub, except for clearings here and there serve as yak-camps. In addition to the shrubs mentior occurring around Hsin-tientsze, Prickly Oak, Juniper, kinds of Rose, and the Thibetan Honeysuckle (Lom thibetica) are common; Barberries in variety are a sf feature. Conifers are scarce and all of small size; all larger timber has been felled and removed long ago At # hamlet of Lung-pu, reckoned 40 li from Hsin-tientsze, er of wheat, barley, oats, and peas put in an appearance, a became more general as we descended the valley. Arour Jé-shui-t’ang the cereals were just coming into ear. * During the day, which was beautifully fine, we had gran views of the snowclad peaks around Tachienlu and the stee ranges with pinnacled peaks to the east-south-east of th town. Around Jé-shui-t’ang there are several hot springs, some of which the water was actually boiling. These sprin are rich in iron, but in those I examined no sulphur was evider Our quarters at Jé-shui-t’ang were a considerable improv “LA 00014 SMVHd ‘NV. AXVIHOVA WHHL penoss THE CHINO-THIBETAN BORDERLAND 203 1ent on those of Hsin-tientsze, but we were, nevertheless, glad to Jleave very soon after day dawned. It is considered to be go li ‘Hrom this place to Tachienlu, but I should say 60 li is a nearer Jestimate. We enjoyed another sunny day. The road is easy and leads through a continuation of the valley that we entered on descending from the Ta-p’ao shan Pass. The valley and mountain-sides for some 300 to 500 feet above it become 4 ore and more under cultivation. Cereals, peas, and Irish ato are the principal crops. The potatoes were being ested, and I noticed that red ones predominated. The region generally has been denuded of its trees, and where not nder crops is covered with scrub and coarse herbs. In rocky laces small trees of White and Hard Pine (Pinus Armandi, ?. prominens) occur, also a few comparatively large trees of a very distinct-looking Peach having narrow, lance-shaped, long pointed leaves, rather small fruits, downy on the outside." _ Around habitations tall trees of Poplar are common, and in occasional Spruce and White Birch occur. The Spruce Picea aurantiaca) is a particularly handsome species, with quare, dark green needles on spreading branches and red- own pendulous cones clustered near the top of the tree. Apple, Apricot, Peach, Plum, and a few Walnut trees are sultivated. The fields are fenced with hedges of Wild Goose- ) (Ribes alpestre, var. giganteum) and the handsome Sorbaria wborea, which has large erect masses of snow-white flowers. Iver these and other shrubs various species of Clematis trail, the most common being C. mutans, var. thyrsoidea, which was aden with a multitude of creamy-yellow nodding flowers. e most beautiful shrub, however, was a Lilac growing 12 to 5 feet tall, and covered with huge panicles of pink or white Tragrant flowers. (It proved a new species, and has been named Syringa Wilsonii.) | | | * 1 At the time I paid no further attention to this Peach, but in 1910 I cured ripe fruit, and found to my astonishment that the stones were per- tly smooth, free, and relatively very small—characters denoting a distinct i Eipecies of Peach. It proved to be new, and has since been named Prunus I regard this as among the most remarkable of the discoveries I have ees make. This new Peach is now in cultivation, and by cross- with the old varieties of the garden Peach (P. Persica) may result in Firadadion of entirely new and improved races of this favourite fruit. 204 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA We crossed the stream by a wooden cantilever bridge on rounding a bend, the goal of our long journey came into vie We were all well-nigh dead beat, and it was with thankful « joyous hearts that we greeted the cluster of closely pack houses, which, nestling in a narrow valley, constitute t important border town of Tachienlu. CHAPTER XVI TACHIENLU, THE GATE OF THIBET ‘HE KINGDOM OF CHIALA, ITS PEOPLE, THEIR MANNERS AND ; CusToMsS HE town of Tachienlu is situated in long. 102° 13’ E., lat. 30° 3’ N. circa, at an altitude of about 8400 feet. . By the most direct route it is twelve days’ journey from thengtu Fu, the provincial capital, on the great highway which ; —_—r | the struggle for supremacy is most keen and the fusion he zones most marked. At 6000 feet the boundary line ‘unusually well defined. ivation extends up to 4000 feet, maize and pulse ing the principal crops, with rice relegated to the valleys 1d bottom-lands. Plantations of Ash trees for the culture of ct-wax extend up to 2600 feet. The foot-hills around the e of the mountain are covered with Pine (Pinus Massoniana), ress (Cupressus funebris), and Oak (Quercus serrata). The ss of the streams which meander among these hills are thed with Alder (Alnus cremastogyne), Pterocarya stenoptera, i the curious Campiotheca acuminata. Around the temples hela Nanmu and tall-growing Bamboos abound ; 2 more exposed hillsides the climbing fern Gleichenia lin- terme impenetrable thickets, and Onychium japonicum, stoma candida, Musseendra pubescens, are common road- plans At 3000 feet all these plants drop out and give pees. Cunninghamia lanceolata, which occurs sparingly 2 valleys, gradually increases in number, and between 300 band 4500 feet large areas are covered solely with this valuable Conifer. Apart from the Cunninghamia, the family vine forms, between 2000 and 5000 feet, fully 75 per . of the arborescent vegetation. This ‘“‘ Laurel zone,” 224 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA as it may be termed, is composed chiefly of evergreen | and shrubs, the genera Machilus, Lindera, and Litsea be exceptionally rich in species. Within this zone also ¢ the following interesting monotypic trees: Tapiscia, Carrit Itoa, Emmenopterys, and Idesia. The evergreen va coriaceum, with blue-black fruits, and five species of ¢ Barberries are also met with found here. In ascending any high mountain, more especially in latitudes, it is most instructive and in . aggressiveness of the temperate flora. Mount Omei o: facilities for studying this phenomenon. E us looks so smiling that all nature seems to be at In these days, however, every ove is alive Se:eaaaaaE stern and relentless war of conquest is being continually w on all sides, and that every inch of ground is contest is well that plants cannot speak, or the exultations of the ¥ and the grotas of the vas wsahed yreehs Se eer ity to bear! But to note the struggle: The la Cornel (Cornus macrophylla) manages to extend its area m to the base of the mountain, being closely attended species of Maple, among which Acer Davidii, striped bark, is particularly a A Black 1 (Betula luminifera), several species of Viburnum, — Malus, Rubus, and Prunus are also well to the fore ; ba ! the Hinterland (4500 to 5500 feet) that the main battle t the zones is fought. This narrow belt is extraordinaril in woody plants. Of those peculiar to it I may m Pierostyrax hispidus, Pterocarya Delavayi, Euptelea plet Decaisnea Fargesit, Horse Chestnut (4sculus Wils and the monotypic genera Tetracentron, Emmenopter Davidia. At least five species of Maple occur with m any specimens of each. Several species of Evonymus, Actinidia, and Holly (Ilex) are alsocommon. The bulk o Laurinee have given up the struggle, their place being tz by Evergreen Oak and Castanopsis. In this belt monkeys common, and are fond of the blue pod-like fruit of Decaisnea, the shining black, flattened seeds of which, howe I noticed they cannot digest. 4 On clearing a dense thicket and emerging on to a nan x he a i. HYDRANGEA XANTHONEURA VAR. WILSONII, 15 FT. TALL ae + we 14 SACRED OMEI SHAN 225 ge, 6100 feet above sea-level, a magnificent view presented " elf. Above towered gigantic limestone cliffs nearly a mile iigt ; below spread valleys and plains filled with a dense, scy cumulus, through which the peaks of mountains peered ike rocky islands from the ocean’s bed; to the westward 1e mighty snowclad ranges of the Thibetan border, 80 miles tant. as the crow flies, presented a magnificent panorama hing northward and southward as far as the eye could ge. The contrast between the floral zones was equally g and impressive. Below, until lost in the clouds, was a of rich, sombre, green vegetation ; above were autumnal nts of every hue, from pale yellow to the richest shades of imson, relieved by clumps of dark green Silver Fir. The jhole scene was bathed in sunlight, a gentle zephyr stirred the and gorgeous butterflies flitted here and there seemingly aconscious of winter’s near approach. The stillness and quiet is most solemn, and was broken only by the warbling of an asional songster in some adjacent tree or bush. It was eed a never-to-be-forgotten scene ! _ At 6200 feet the Cunninghamia gives up the fight, having ruggled nobly until reduced to the dimensions of an insignifi- at shrub. A Silver Fir (Abies Delavayi) next assumes the ay, and right royally does it deserve the sceptre, for no more adsome Conifer exists in all the Far East ; its large, erect, ametrical cones are violet-black in colour and are usually rne in greatest profusion on the topmost branches. The mples on the higher parts of the mountain are constructed 20st entirely of the timber of this tree. It is first met th on Mount Omei, at 6000 feet, at which altitude it is of no sat size and unattractive in appearance ; at 6500 feet it isa adsome tree. It is, however, between 8500 and 10,000 feet tt this Silver Fir reaches its maximum size. In this belt mdreds of trees 80 to roo feet tall, with a girth of ro to 12 , are to be found. Hemlock Spruce (Tsuga yunnanensis) curs sparingly, but always in the form of large and shapely 2s. An occasional Yew tree (Taxus cuspidata, var. chinensis) d, on the summit, dwarf Juniper (J. sgwamaia) complete ae list of Conifers growing on the higher parts of this moun- The unspeakably magnificent autumnal tints already VOL. 1.—I5 ee ee Oo =e Bowe rarrtnhe B® oxsta=s PP 226 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA referred to are principally due ‘to numerous species — Viburnum, Vitis, Malus, Sorbus, Pyrus, and Acer, togeth with Enkianthus deflexus, which surpasses all in the rich of its autumn tints of orange and crimson. At 6200 feet the ascent becomes increasingly diffie and having surmounted a formidable flight of steps, 800 ft high, we were glad to rest at the temple of Hsih-hsiang-chi All the temples on Mount Omei occupy lovely and roman situations, but none more so than this, which has one si flush with the edge of a precipice, and the others sheltered b grove of Silver Fir. The hospitable priests regaled us with t and sweetmeats and entertained us with much that was curio and amusing. They claimed that it was at this particul place that P’u-hsien Pu’ssa alighted from his elephant to alle the footsore animal to bathe in a near-by pool; <7 to-day is marked by a cistern. a Immediately on leaving this temple two steep eo of s followed by a slight descent, led us to a small wooded f which shelves away from a vertical precipice. Hereak Sorbus munda, with white fruits, was a most conspicu shrub. A climbing Hydrangea (H. anomala) reaches to tk of the tallest trees. Several other species of Hydrangea gi epiphytically on the larger trees and so also do two or th species of Sorbus. Rhododendrons are fairly abundai more especially near the edge of the precipice. The first f Rhododendron bushes were noted growing at 4800 feet, a altogether I gathered thirteen species on this mounta But as compared with the region to the westward Mount O1 is poor in Rhododendrons. The same is true of F me of which four species only were met with. _ At gooo feet the most difficult stairway of all occurs, I was fairly exhausted when the top of it was reached 10,100 feet. Winter had laid his stern hand heavily he and most of the woody plants were leafless. At 10,000 fe Bamboo-scrub puts in an appearance and increases as t summit is neared until finally it crowds out nearly everythi else and forms an impenetrable jungle about 4 to 6 feet higl From the top of the last stairway an easy pathway planking leads to the summit, which we reached just as 1 SACRED OMEI SHAN 227 "sun was setting behind the snowclad ranges of the Thibetan A perfect night succeeded the day, and our hopes were high for the morrow. Alas! a thick fog and a drizzle of rain was what we awoke to find. A terrible precipice in front and a more or less shelving away behind was all we could make ‘out of the lay of the land. To find out what the summit is eally like, a long walk was undertaken, but resulted in little ond a thorough drenching. The mountain-top is somewhat uneven, sloping away from the cliffs by a fairly easy gradient. i It is everywhere covered with a dense scrub, composed mainly f dwarf Bamboo, with bushes of Willow, Birch, Sorbus, Bar- berry, Rhododendron, Spirza, and Rosa omeiensis interspersed. ' Near the watercourses these shrubs are more particularly ', bundant. Trailing over the scrub Clematis montana, var. —: is verycommon. At least five species of Rhododendron | grow on the summit, but, judging from the paucity of fruits, flower but sparingly. In places sheltered from the winds sheehtn of Silver Fir remain, but in the more fully exposed s these trees are very stunted and weather-beaten. The c Juniper, with twisted, gnarled stems, is also plentiful in rocky places. _ Around the temples small patches of cabbage, turnips, and Trish potato are cultivated, and several favourite medicines | are grown in quantity, such as Rhubarb, “ Huang-lien” optis chinensis), ‘‘ Tang-shén,” and ‘‘ Tang-kuei.” Here and there on the mountain we passed hucksters’ Stalls, on which various local products were exposed for sale. These consist chiefly of medicines, porcupine quills, crystals _ of felspar, sweet tea, and pilgrim staves. The latter, made trom the wood of an Alder (Alnus cremastogyne), are carved r eeneresctitation of fantastic dragons and Buddhas. The eet tea isa peculiarity of Mount Omei, being prepared from e leaves of Viburnum theiferum. mrs aan ae a CHAPTER XVIII THROUGH THE LAOLIN (WILDERNESS) NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY FROM KIATING TO MALIE, vIA Wa-wu SHAN EAVING the city of Kiating on 4th September 1908, w followed the main road to Yachou Fu and stayed for th night at Kiakiang Hsien, a small city, altitude 120 feet, 70 li from our starting-place. It had rained heavily ir the early morning, but cleared just before we set out, and cool and fine, although dull the whole day. The road is b mostly well paved, and leads through a rich and highlycultiy region. Around Kiating the rice had been harvested, rn of the land reploughed, and another crop, chiefly buckwhez and turnips, planted. A few miles beyond this city, howe . the rice crop was not so forward, and though a portion wa being reaped the bulk would not be ripe for some weeks. Around the margins of rice fields trees for the altu of insect white-wax are abundantly planted. Pollarded / (Fraxinus chinensis) were chiefly noticeable, but in places t of Privet (Ligustrum lucidum) are used for this indu . Much of the wax had been collected, but in one place we wet fortunate enough to witness the process and obtain phot graphs. (In Vol. II., Chapter X., this interesting industry i fully described.) Sericulture was very much in evidence, anda the alluvial flats are planted with Mulberry trees, but trees Cudrania are not common. In this region in particulellll silkworms are fed on the leaves of both these trees ; the peopl claim that this mixed diet results in a stronger kind of a : The Szechuan Banyan (Ficus infectorta) is the most strikis tree hereabouts ; its widespreading umbrageous head u shelters some wayside shrine: Venders of cakes, pea-n a a THROUGH THE LAOLIN (WILDERNESS) 229 | fand fruit are also to be found occupying some temporary _ stall under these beautiful trees. The road skirts the sides of “low hills of red sandstone for considerable distances, and is mainly parallel with, and in full view of, the Ya River. The hills are clad with common Pine (Pinus Massoniana), Cypress (Cupressus funebris), a jungle-growth of low shrubs, and the scandent Gleichenia linearis. Small trees of Oak and Sweet ‘Chestnut and larger ones of Alder are also common. Groves _ of tall-growing Bamboos, of course, are everywhere abundant. _ In the sandstone cliffs are very many square-mouthed Mantzu caves ; the scenery is distinctly pretty and pleasing. ) ~=©6Crl Wee left Kiakiang at 6.30 a.m. the following day, and _ quickly reached a ferry, where we crossed over the Ya River, _a broad, stony, shallow stream. Quite near this place are _ two really fine and very large old temples known as Ping- _ling-ssu and Kuei-ling-ssu. The first named, in particular, contains some very fine idols; both, however, have a very _ deserted and neglected appearance, and give the impression of “glories departed.” The sandstone cliffs at the ferry are _ highly sculptured, but are rapidly weathering away, much _ of the work being undecipherable and hidden by vegetation. _ The li proved very long, and we did not reach Che-ho-kai until 7 p.m., going steadily the whole day. The distance is _ 80 li, and three ferries, which hinder considerably, have to be _ crossed. Near the city of Hungya Hsien, which we sighted in the late afternoon, large plantations of Ash trees for the culture of insect white-wax abound. Rice is everywhere _ the great crop; the yield was heavier than usual, and the people were busy reaping and threshing it. Fine Banyan _ trees are plentiful, Alder is abundant, and handsome Nanmu trees are not infrequent around temples and houses. We also noted a small tree of the Hog-plum (Spondias axillaris) _ bearing quantities of its oblong, yellow, edible fruits. The _ vegetation generally is similar to that around Kiating, but _ the Chinese Fir (Cunninghamia lanceolata) is more common % and Pine and Cypress less so. 2 Che-ho-kai, alt. r400 feet, is a large and important _ market village, situated on the right bank of the Ya River. f The inn is very fair. I occupied a large room overlooking 230 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA the river, but, as I discovered later, with a piggery latrine below. a The next day we began our real journey. Instead o} following the ‘main route to Yachou Fu by crossing over th river, we ascended the right ‘bask: for a couple of 3 ama Che-ho-kai, and then crossed a considerable affluent of t main stream. Rafts of good-sized poles of Chinese descend this tributary from Liu ch’ang, a market village, a ordinary bamboo-rafts ascend to this place. After cli to the tops of some low hills the road zigzags around c siderably through fields of rice and wooded knolls, affords an unusually fine view of the Ya Valley. F the tiny market village of Tung-to ch’ang we reached Ku yin pu (or ch’ang) at 10.45 a.m., having covered 30 li. : From Kuang-yin pu we engaged in a steep ascent over a L well-paved if narrow road, and after four hours’ climb reached the summit of the Fung-hoa-tsze, alt. 4100 fe This ridge is of red sandstone throughout, and is well timbered with small trees of the Chinese Fir. This conifer abounds on the slopes flanking the roadway to the top of the pass a forms pure woods. Though the timber is of no great the area covered with this tree compares most favourably with any other I have seen. Where timber is scarce he jungle growth is very thick, warm-temperate in character, and of little interest. a Descending, at first steadily, through knolls covered. Chinese Fir and the densest fern jungle composed ¢ Gleichenia linearis I have ever seen, we soon reached an ¢ under maize. From this point a steep descent led tod cultivated flat, then, after winding through rice fields with tiny wooded hillocks on all sides, we crossed a neck entered the hamlet of Liang-ch’a Ho, alt. 2350 feet, < 65 long li from our starting-point. We found very dece at accommodation, all things considered, but mosquitoes were most unpleasantly numerous and hungry. s It rained very heavily during the early morning of = next day, so we delayed our starting until eleven o'clock. We found all the streams in flood, and to cross one la ore than the ordinary we had to engage local assistance. After a na ONILLVIN “TIVA A.LIO NO WId NAL THROUGH THE LAOLIN (WILDERNESS) = 231 Mi Fe rather steep ascent of 500 feet from Liang-ch’a Ho we crossed an arrow ridge and descended to the market village of N’gan iF ) oe bank of the stream which unites with the Ya Ho, i above Che-ho-kai. On leaving N’gan ch’ang we ascended This scattered hamlet possesses no inn, but we found quarters a schoolhouse devoted to the ‘“ New Learning” (#.¢. | | one to Japan to increase his store of knowledge, and the dominie was very proud of this success. This hamlet boasts signs of former prosperity. _ During the short journey of 25 li the road led through bluffs. The flora was of little interest ; Idesia polycarpa and opanax ricinifolium are fairly common in places, but the > handsome Lycoris aurea abounds, and the golden-yellow owers with recurved, wrinkled, cringe gibt made c urs, but is much less frequent. The local name for this lant is ‘‘ Lao-wa-suan,” which signifies “‘ Crow’s foot Onion,” This is a poor place, partly in ruins, situated on he right bank of the stream to Pao-tien-pa, alt. 2600 feet. Western Knowledge). A scholar from this place had recently a ruined pavilion, a temple, and a stone gateway, evident Mslds of rice, bounded by wooded knolls and sandstone ees are of small size. Alongside the ditches and roadway a gay display. Its red-flowered counterpart, L. radiata, also ey apt term in so far as the shape of the flower is con- ” The following day was fine but hot, and more or less oudy. With only 35 li to cover, we journeyed slowly after aking an early morning start. A moderately steep ascent af 15 li brought us to the summit of the Tsao shan, alt. 4100 feet. This ridge is covered with an uninteresting jungle Q coarse grass and scrub, with odd trees of Chinese Fir, but a the ascent I gathered specimens of a fine new species of Castanopsis. § i From the summit of Tsao shan we obtained our first view eee Warwa shan, an extraordinary-looking massive mountain, ‘Singularly like Wa shan in contour, resembling a huge ark Sting above clouds of mist. Following an easy path which Fs dd through fine woods of Evergreen Oak, Nanmu, and Castanopsis we descended to Ma-chiao-kou, where there is an 232 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA iron suspension bridge over a wide torrent. This hamle consists of one large house and a mill, where a ngeS and tough bamboo paper is made, which is used at Ya Fu for wrapping up brick tea. The bamboo is obtainé from the surrounding mountains, and is a species wit d green culms about the thickness of a man’s thumb, 12 to 15 feet tall. On crossing over the bridge, I photograp a fine specimen of Alniphyllum Fortunei, one of the rarest ¢ Chinese trees. A short steep ascent, then a rather di out descent, ultimately brought us to the banks of a water stream of considerable size, which we crossed by iron suspension bridge 50 yards long, and soon reached th market village of Ping-ling-shih, alt. 2g00 feet. This 1 a small and dirty place of about 50 houses, situated on th left bank of a stream which joins the Ya Ho, some ro li bele Yachou Fu. It is in Hung-ya Hsien, in full view of Me Wa-wu, and the most important place in the (Wilderness), as this region is denominated. 4 The flora of the day’s journey was rather more interestin than heretofore. Wooded knolls are the rule. Evergre trees, more especially Oak and Castanopsis, are very g A and of large size. I gathered four species belonging ti ' latter genus, all handsome umbrageous trees. A fine specim of the curious Hazel-nut (Corylus heterophylla, var. crista-g 60 feet tall, 5 feet in girth, was one of the most interesting tr noted. The nut in this variety is hidden in a crested cu The Chinese Fir is most abundant, being the only Conifer me with. The absence of Pine and Cypress since leaving # valley of the Ya River has been a most remarkable featu The country generally is very broken, the sandstone bh bold, are clad with the usual jungle growth wherever t are sparse. a In order to ascend Mount Wa-wu from Ping-ling-shih it necessary for us to make a detour from our intended ro uti The summit was said to be 70 li distant, but, owing to the st and difficult road, two days are required to cover this. W left behind all our spare gear and arranged what it was necessat to take into light loads. The road on clearing Ping-ling-shi ascends a rock-strewn tributary of the main stream, through | i a : THROUGH THE LAOLIN (WILDERNESS) = 233 Z J region given over to rice fields and cultivation generally. At J eleven o'clock in the forenoon after traversing 30 li we reached the large temple of Tsung-tung-che, alt. 4000 feet, situated the foot of the real ascent of Mount Wa-wu. This temple is ilt of wood, very old, and in poor repair. A priest and one tendant were in charge ; the rooms, though dingy and damp, were alive with fleas. But since there is no other accom- modation between this place and the summit it was necessary to make the best of things. I had my bed arranged in a large hall where three huge images of Buddha looked down benignly me. During the morning occasional showers fell, but a the afternoon a steady downpour set in, which added to the erlessness of our roomy but dilapidated quarters. Fost before reaching the temple we passed through the mlet of Tung-ch’ang Ho, where there is a very large iron foundry employing a considerable number of men. Iron ore is common in the surrounding mountains, and costs 12,000 to 13,000 cash per 10,000 catties. Every 10,000 catties of ore yields about 4000 catties of pig iron, which was said to be of good quality, and sells for 2500 to 3000 cash per picul of 100 ‘catties. The smelting is done in furnaces heated by charcoal, which costs at the foundry 12 to 13 cash per catty. Most of the smelting is done during the winter, the summer months being given to the collecting of charcoal and iron ore. Large iron cooking-pans are also made here in considerable quantities. Copper is also found in the same range as the iron ore, but a the opposite side. Formerly it was worked and smelted , the name Tung-ch’ang signifying “‘ copper-shop”’ or Beery. From what I could learn the industry was abandoned some ten years or more ago when copper mining became a Government monopoly controlled by the officials. The people told me that they could not produce copper on paying lines nder Tls. 35°00 to Tls. 36°00 per picul. The officials would pay Tls. 28:00, consequently copper smelting was given ‘up and replaced by that of iron. A hard, smokeless coal occurs a the neighbourhood, but is not much used. Altogether, this Te e-ch’ang Howith its iron foundry, coal mines, andabandoned copper workings constitutes an interesting mining centre. f Around the temple are many fine trees of Castanopsis, * i ct . , \ 4 t aig 1 234 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA and the finest specimen of the interesting monotypic Tapiset sinensis I have seen. This tree is fully 80 feet tall, with a girt of 12 feet. Many fine trees of the Kuei-hwa (Osmanthw fragrans) are planted in the temple grounds, and were in ful flower, scenting the atmosphere all around. Near strea’ Alder (Alnus cremastogyne) is abundant, and on the hills th Chinese Fir is common. It rained heavily all night, and a drizzle fell when we out next morning at 6.30 a.m. This drizzle developed int a steady downpour as we advanced, and continued with i creased violence the whole day. The road is atrocious fror the very beginning. For the first 2500 feet there is a semblat of a track, some of: i being made by layieg Gath ame timber crosswise. The next 2500 feet is a rough s upwards through cane-brake and brushwood until the s is reached. The ascent is up the north-north-east angle a mountain, and though never really dangerous is always v difficult. We dragged ourselves upward by grasping sh: and it was a marvel to me how the coolies with their le managed to overcome the ascent. The foothold was carious, and it was often a case of one foot forward and backward ! oH On reaching the summit we followed a winding for 12 li to the temple of Kwanyin-ping, alt. groo feet. 7 mountain-top is undulating, park-like, and covered with impenetrable jungle of Bamboo-scrub about 6 feet tall, a from a floor of Sphagnum moss. Silver Fir (Abies De called Lien sha, ¢.e. Cold Fir (signifying that it is only fe cold regions), is scattered through in quantity, but I saw really handsome trees, all of them showing the effects of in storms, age, and decay. The pathway across the summ : about 24 feet wide, paved throughout with split timbers, thou; here and there fallen Silver Fir trees, slightly notched a flattened, have been utilized in making this roadway. passed three temples in absolute ruins, but saw no signs ¢ life of any description. The heavy rain and dense m obscured all views, and I saw nothing of the coumtryal scenery except what was encompassed in a perspective of 3¢ yards. Drenched to the skin but mildly describes the plight 2 VILLAGE OF PING-LING-SHIH, MT. WA-WU IN DISTANCE THROUGH THE LAOLIN (WILDERNESS) = 235 n which we reached the temple. Our gear arrived equally t some two hours afterwards, and we were some time getting hings dry and shipshape. The temple of Kwanyin-ping is very large, with many outhouses, and is built entirely of wood. It contains many ores of idols, but is in a poor state of repair. The main road uither is from Yungching Hsien, distant 120 li. During the Shinese fifth and sixth moons (June, July) some two to three hhousand pilgrims visit this temple, but for the rest of the year t has scarcely a visitant. The priests reside at Yungching Hsien except at the pilgrim season, a novice being left in charge. whis novice lives all alone, without even a dog for a com- anion. As a reward he receives 14 catties of rice per diem rations and 2000 cash (say, half a crown) per annum : ! In spite of his lonely life, and he has been in charge ‘or three years, this novice was a very cheery person. He moved around quickly, had a ready smile, and chanted hymns nd prayers wherever he went. He speedily made a fire for is to dry ourselves and clothing, and made himself generally iseful. His cheery influence made itself felt, and my men soon eased their grumbling over the vileness of the road and my nadness in wanting to visit such a place. The novice told us hat the first temple was built on this mountain during the astern Han Dynasty (A.D. 25-87). At one time there were as many as 40 temples here, but during Ming times the majority were destroyed, and the temple ornaments melted down. To- jay there are only two in any sense habitable, and in one only is a man kept the year round. This same authority vouch- afed the information that the heavy rains were due to the fell- ag of timber ; the country folk holding this view were opposed “¢ further cutting, but the Magistrate at Yungching Hsien p00h-poohed the idea, and insisted on the slaughter being pe ntinued, with the result that torrential rains fell every day 2xcept in winter, when snow took their place. e The next morning opened dull and threatening, but eventu- lly the sun came out and we enj joyed a fine day. The temple tands in Hungya Hsien, and is situated on the edge of a precipice. The views looking north-east over the Ya Valley land west to the Thibetan alps are very fine; some almost 236 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA vertical limestone cliffs near by the temple are covered in remarkable manner with Silver Fir. The whole surroundir are wildly romantic, and it is small wonder that the place deemed sacred and holy. Wa-wu shan or Wa shan, as it is much more frequently br erroneously called, is one of three sacred mountains, form the three corners of and enclosing a triangular tract of sparsely inhabited country known as the Laolin (Wilderne On even the most recent maps the term Lolo is written acros this region, but as a matter of fact no Lolos live here. The fe people found here are Chinese—peasants, charcoal-burr miners, and medicine-gatherers. The other two mounta Omei shan and Wa shan, have been described by form travellers, but, with the possible exception of some Roma Catholic priest, my visit was the first undertaken by a foreigner to the summit of Wa-wu shan. Like its sister mountains, Wa-wu is a gigantic upthrv hard limestone, but of lesser altitude than they, being ¢ 9200 feet above sea-level. It is a huge oblong mass, comp 08 of a series of vertical cliffs 2000 feet and more sheer, reared ¢ base of red sandstone rocks. The summit is flat with sand at mudstone shales scattered about, and is said to be 60 li long 1 40 li wide, but this is an exaggeration—3o li by 15 li De probably, nearer the truth. Its appearance from a dist: has already been given, and the nearer the approach the mo impressive become the perpendicular walls of rock. similarity in appearance between this mountain and the re Wa shan has also been alluded to, and I strongly suspect th the mountain seen from the summit of Omei shan and call Wa shan is really this Wa-wu shan. Their extraordin vertical sides and flat summits make these two peaks u among the mountains of Western China. From a botanical standpoint Mount Wa-wu proved d appointing. In the first place, its altitude was some 1500 than I had hoped for. Secondly, all the mixed timber hast felled for making charcoal and other purposes, leaving or y dense shrubbery in which variety is not great. Thirdly, t paucity of Conifere on the summit other than Silver Fir an the impenetrable thickets of slender Bamboos which ron an THROUGH THE LAOLIN (WILDERNESS) 237 extended exploration impossible. The flora generally is that common to every mountain in this region “of similar altitude, but, of course, it has a certain number of species peculiarly its n in the same way as every other mountain in China has. he outstanding feature is its wealth of Bamboo-scrub ; its eciality, the abundant carpet of Sphagnum moss on the ummit. This moss occurs on Wa shan and virtually on all the other mountains of this region, between 8000 and 11,500 leet, but nowhere have I seen it so luxuriantly plentiful as on Wa-wu shan. _ The day being fine and clear I obtained good views of every- hing. The summit is made up of low, wooded hillocks, tiny s, and glades. Here and there it is a morass, and on one 3 ikon from such a place we flushed a Solitary Snipe. The feathery Bamboo-culms are very beautiful, and the scattered, often sentinel-like, old trees of Silver Fir quite picturesque. A lew trees of Hemlock Spruce occur, but their number is in- finitesimal. Some of the Silver Fir were roo feet tall, and 10 ‘o 12 feet in girth, but all such trees contain much dead wood. Here and there saplings are common, but they can scarcely compete with the Bamboo in the struggle for possession. At one time Davidia (both hairy and glabrous-leaved forms), etracentron, Magnolia, various species of Acer, Pyrus, Cas- fanopsis, Evergreen Oak, and Laurineew covered the lesser slopes, but, to-day, these are all represented only by bushes which have sprung up from the felled trees. Rhododendrons re fairly numerous, and I noted about ten species. One of hese forms a tree 25 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet in girth. (It proved to be new, and has been named in honour of the Rev. Harry Openshaw, of Yachou Fu.) Various Araliads are entiful, and were mostly in ripe fruit. The Chinese Fir ends to 4500 feet altitude, and very few of the evergreens other than Rhododendron extend above 6000 feet. Herbs, of course, occur, but none of any great value or interest. A local industry of considerable importance at the season of the year my visit occurred, and for six weeks previously, is the collecting and preparing of young Bamboo shoots for culinary purposes. The species in request is one having sulms the thickness of a man’s thumb, and growing 10 feet tall. 238 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA The young shoots are culled when 8 to 12 inches above thi ground, stripped of their sheaths and apices, leaving only th white, brittle succulent central part. These are boiled i water, then removed, suspended from rafters in a close chamb and dried by means of heat from steady-burning fires f from locally made briquettes. When thoroughly dry they ax packed in bales and carried to Chengtu and other cities, they are esteemed a great delicacy. We saw fully a score ¢ rude shanties where this industry was in full swing. = spot the raw shoots are bought for 6 cash per 16-oz. the collecting being done by contract. The known as “ Tsin-tzu,”’ sells at Ping-ling-shih for 8 to 9 Tis. pe 100 catties of 20 oz. each. This cagion Ss Seaaitieraas ( for its product of dried Bamboo shoots, and the industry af employment for a large number of people. Many wild animals, including Budorcas, Serow, Leopard, and Bear were said to occur on Wa-wu, but huntir them would be almost an impossibility. We saw no a of any kind, but I do not doubt the reports given as to th ie! presence on this jungle-clad mountain. “ A day sufficed for our investigations, and leaving the nex morning about nine o’clock, a hard day’s march ie back to Ping-ling-shih at 5.45 p.m. Our object being to traverse this Laolin country thre its greatest width to some point in the valley of the Tur River, we readjusted our loads, and the following day conti ue our march. Crossing the tributary stream by a rickety ire suspension bridge, we soon left Ping-ling-shih behind. TI path ascends the right bank of the main stream frequent high above its waters, and at times some little distance remove As soon as it enters limestone country the river becom gorged. The li were long, the road rough, and it took us fiv hours to cover 30 li to Yiieh-ch’a-ping. This place consists | a single house, situated near where the stream bifurcate One branch and a companion roadway leads off in a sout easterly direction, and by this track it is possible to reac Huang-mu ch’ang. The path we followed ascends the braz which swings round from the south-west, skirting the base ¢ Wa-wu shan. After crossing a cultivated shoulder we plunge Mla MHA TIS HLIM GHHLO'ID Sd! LINNOS NO uw (WAL NOMA MATA THROUGH THE LAOLIN (WILDERNESS) 239 into a deep, narrow gorge, traversing a difficult roadway usually igh up above the stream. The scenery is very fine—steep sliffs, either bare or clothed with shrubs, on every side. Rs ic slowly we reached the solitary house at Chang-ho- pa, alt. 4000 feet, about 5 p.m., having covered 50 li. _ During the day’s march we saw a number of interesting trees, and obtained specimens and photographs. Carrieria salycina, a widespreading flat-topped tree, is very common in }rocky places by the stream-side, and was laden with its torpedo- shaped, velvety-grey fruit which was not ripe. The Tapiscia is fairly numerous, but the trees are of no great size. Perhaps the most noteworthy tree of this region is Meliosma Kirkii, which has a shapely port, rigid branches, and handsome pinnate leaves, 2 feet long. Evergreen Oak, various Laurinee, tall- growing Bamboos, and a Fan Palm (Trachycarpus excelsus) are abundant, denoting a mild, moist climate. The Chinese ir is the only Conifer. The quantity of this useful tree and the many fine and shapely specimens were among the leading features of this trip. We had left rice behind at last, and phtered a region where only maize is grown. Every available bit of land is under cultivation, but the district is very sparsely F opulated. A certain amount of tea is grown around Ping- 1 ng-shih, but the industry is of little importance commercially. The people at Chang-ho-pa informed us that the road before us was much worse than that which we had traversed. For the first ro li after leaving our lodgings I thought they had ‘dissembled, but afterwards the truth of their statement was ‘only too evident The stream flows through a narrow, wild gorge or succession of gorges ; the road is either some hundreds of feet above the stream, or down by the water’s edge. The “ups and downs” repeat themselves with monotonous and irritating frequency. The path is very much overgrown with ‘weeds and brush, always very narrow, the ascents and descents pre ipitous and difficult. It is misleading and foolish to term t a ‘‘road.”” Goats would make a better pathway, did they avel it frequently ! ~The scenery is grand, though mists and a drizzle of rain did their best to rob us of its enjoyment. The cliffs are in Z main clothed with shrubby vegetation, but alongside the ale aed 5 ene pPory a rtd 240 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA stream large trees are common. The climate is evidently very moist and warm, since broad-leaved evergreens aboun Perhaps the most common shrub or small tree is a Waln or Chinese Butternut (Juglans cathayensis), which has six | twelve fruits arranged in a raceme, and leaves up to a ya in length. The Horse Chestnut (A2sculus Wilsonii), Yellow wood (Cladrastis sinensis), Hornbeam, and various Maplh are among the more interesting trees hereabouts. Clearing and abandoned cultivated areas are overgrown with tl handsome Anemone vitifolia, var. alba, which was 4 to 5 tall, and bore myriads of large attractive flowers. This t made a wonderful display, and I do not remember havin it so luxuriant elsewhere in my travels. Beneath cliffs ¢ ping with moisture, Begonias, Impatiens, Ferns, and vari Cyrtandree in masses made pretty effects. The Chinese F ceases at 4800 feet altitude, but limestone country is not t its liking, and the trees quickly: becrane. acme rar red sandstone. Houses and patches of cultivation are few and far betwee but it is surprising that any should be found in such a pm cipitous country. We put up for the night at one of the th small houses which collectively form the hamlet of Peh-sha He altitude 5000 feet, 40 li from Chang-ho-pa. The house is bu on a steep bank, overlooking a point where the stream di the larger branch flowing from a southerly direction. On leaving Peh-sha Ho we headed for the source of tl lesser of the two streams—a mere mountain torrent. difficulty all day was in discerning the track and keeping te I lost it early in the morning, and wasted two hours in a ju of Bamboo ; my Boy had the same misfortune in the ¢ ernc The collecting of Bamboo shoots is an industry here as on th other side of Wa-wu, and the tracks made by men engz et in this are many. The path we endeavoured to follow \ frequently less well-defined than these tracks and, moreover was overgrown with vegetation. It crossed the torrent many times, but the fords were difficult to discover. We passes neither house nor person, and perforce had to explore our ow route. It rained heavily the whole day, increasing our diffi culties and discomforts. THROUGH THE LAOLIN (WILDERNESS) = 241 _ Our objective for the day was some lead mines, but early in the afternoon it became evident that we could not reach them before night was well advanced. Darkness overtook us, and we had visions of spending the night in the woods, which bound the torrent; suddenly, however, the welcome glare from a charcoal-burner’s hut gladdened our hearts. Scrambling somehow down the steep slope, and across the torrent, we quickly reached this haven of shelter. It proved a wretched hovel, but the warmth from the charcoal pit was comforting ‘since we, and all our belongings, were wet through. My bed ‘was fixed up in a shed where prepared charcoal was stored, the men taking possession of the hut, thankful that a refuge of some sort had been found. _ Much of the day’s journey had consisted in struggling through brush and Bamboo, and by way of variety wading the torrent was thrown in. Whenever the mists lifted, cliffs and crags, densely covered with vegetation, were to be seen on all sides. The flora is apparently rich, but it was impossible us to investigate it. All the larger trees have been cut down and converted into charcoal. Davidia, Tetracentron, Cercidiphyllum, and Cornus sinensis are common as bushy trees by the wayside ; Maples are plentiful, and stout climbers, uch as Actinidia, Clematoclethra, and Holbeellia are rampant. Two men were in charge of the charcoal pits. They told us place is called Tan-yao-tzu, and that we had only covered li! All the hardwood trees having been felled they are forced to use the softwood of Silver Fir and Hemlock , which, they said, grow in quantity on the higher crags. The charcoal is all used for smelting lead at the mines. _ The roof of the shed leaked freely, but an arrangement of il-sheets kept my bed fairly dry, and I enjoyed a good night’s leep. Awaking soon after daybreak we found it was still ‘Taining. Leaving the hut (alt. 7250 feet), we crossed two ‘branches of the stream and scrambled up the mountain-side to rejoin the track. Soon afterwards we entered a narrow )scrub-clad valley, at the head of which a precipitous, circuitous ascent brought us to the top of a ridge where the lead mines are situated. In the ascent, Rhododendron Hanceanum and ‘two other species are particularly abundant, forming thickets ; VOL. I.—16 242 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA Lonicera deflexicalyx is also plentiful, and was a walle orange-coloured fruit. On humus-clad rocks a pretty | prostrate Gaultheria with snow-white fruits is common. r hovels at the lead mines are miserable structures, but we glad of their shelter from the rain and cold. The whole mot tain appears to be full of lead, the ore (galena) being very r Well-shored adits are carried for considerable distances the mountain-side, and the ore is brought out in baskets fit onrunners. The galena is pounded by hand labour into sm particles ; the lead is obtained by levigation and stored large wooden vats. Subsequently it is melted into 1 oblong ingots, in which form it is carried to Ch and Sui Fu. The freight down to the nearest waterway very considerable. Lead has been worked in this neighbou hood for many years, and the mines are owned by a man wh resides at Kiating. The labourers are paid 1800 cash pe month. We were told that the previous year’s anal 10,000 catties, but little reliance can be placed on this s ment. Such an output is very small, but the primitive m employed are slow and expensive. For smelting and other dl poses the mountain has been denuded of its timber, and is in its upper parts a grassy, scrub-clad wilderness. I made altitude of the mines 9400 feet, that is to say, 2000 feet < ‘the charcoal pits whence the fuel necessary to melt down lead is drawn. The sides of the workings are bare and gravell and were covered with rich yellow flowers of a Sedum-li plant, which was new and is unknown to me. On leaving the lead mines and crossing a slight dip reached a babbling brook which forms the roadway for fl next few li. On deserting this we made a very steep ascent 1 the top of a grassy ridge, alt. 10,400 feet, only to find tk deep ravine separated us from the watershed proper. or most precipitous descent of 1600 feet over a rocky and difficu path, we reached the bed of a torrent, which I ce to bet stream we noted at Peh-sha Ho flowing from a direction. d On reaching this stream the rain ceased, the mists cleare away rapidly, and the sun showed itself for the first time in for days. The surrounding country is savage, and is made up hee C((AVAVING SHIMV) Ula AAATIS GNV WIONDAL OOANVA THROUGH THE LAOLIN (WILDERNESS) 243 ‘a magnificent series of limestone cliffs, their steepest crags clothed with weather-worn trees of Silver Fir. Everywhere else the trees have been cut down. _ From the torrent we struggled up a severe ascent of 1000 feet, and reached the summit of the watershed, alt. 10,100 feet. Here we got a very fine view of the country, which is simply a succession of cliffs and crags capped by rugged trees of Silver Fir, and with a dense growth of broad-leaved trees in the more inaccessible pockets. _ The rest of the day’s journey was all downhill over a vile pathway. We reached the tiny hamlet of Yang-tientsze, alt. 7600 feet, at 6 p.m., having occupied eleven hours in cover- ‘ing 30 li. Two men who carried our food-stuffs arrived just as darkness closed in, and reported the rest of our gear far behind. Our lodgings were poor enough in all conscience, but most acceptable after such a fatiguing tramp. After dinner I tried to sleep on an oil-sheet spread over one of the native beds, but ‘was soon discovered by hungry, tormenting fleas, and, tired as I was, sleep proved impossible. About one o'clock my bed and some other gear arrived. The carriers had been forced to wait after darkness fell until the moon was up in order to see the path. I could not complain; they had done their best over a most heart-breaking road. The rest of our loads turned up ‘soon after daybreak, and we left Yang-tientsze at 7.30 a.m. Descending by a comparatively easy road for 30 li we reached before noon the village of Malie, alt. 5300 feet, a very poor place, situated on the main road between Omei Hsien and -Fulin via Wa shan. Thus had the Laolin been crossed from north-east to south-west, and, personally, I have no desire to repeat the journey. The continued rains increased considerably the ‘difficulties of the bad roads and made what, under the most favourable weather conditions, must always be a fatiguing journey, an exceedingly arduous and miserable one. The and dense mists robbed the trip of its greatest charm, ‘outside the scenery. Except on odd occasions I saw nothing : outside a radius of 50 yards. The unpropitious weather also Miccnted any investigation of the flora other than that along- side the pathway. In so far as it came under my observation ps sae a PTT ‘Bee 244 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA this region possesses very little in the way of woody p. beyond what are common to the same altitude everywhere fi western Szechuan. For richness in species it does not comp favourably with Mount Omei or Mount Wa. However, there ar some points of interest. The region evidently enjoys a warm, wet climate, and the belt of broad-leaved evergreens, especially Oak and Laurine@, extends to a greater altitude than usual. The abundance of Chinese Fir and such interesting trees as Davidia, Tetracentron, Cladrastis, Magnolia, A2sculus, Cercidi- phyllum, and Chinese Butternut (Juglans cathayensis) is perha: the outstanding feature. Strong-growing climbers such as F beellia, Actinidia, and Clematoclethra abound, and I obtain seeds of several species. Many kinds of Sorbus with wh red, and purple fruits occur, and seeds of these were also secures Honeysuckles, Brambles,and Rhododendrons are alsoabundan The scarcity of Birch, Beech, deciduous Oak, and Sweet Ch nut, and the entire absence of Pine, Cypress, and Poplar ai marked features of the region. Throughout the higher altitude Silver Fir and Hemlock Spruce are the only Conifers, althe in one place I thought I detected some Spruce trees high on the cliffs. I saw no fine trees of either of these Conif all that now remain grow on the crags and other e inaccessible places, and have suffered much from the windail weather generally. The jungle growth of Gleichenia on sandstone, and the impenetrable Bamboo thickets every between 6000 and 10,000 feet altitude, are the most s' floral characteristics of the entire region. The mining dustries have been the cause of the wholesale felling of timber. . The entire absence of decent roads, the sparse popt ion wretchedly poor accommodation, the savage cliffs, and jungl clad mountain-sides sufficiently entitle this region to be terme “ Laolin,”’ ¢.e. a ‘* Wilderness.” he aia T ¢ CHAPTER XIX WA SHAN AND ITS FLORA . HE sister mountain to the sacred Omei is Wa shan, situated about long. 103° 14’ E., lat. 29° 21’ N., six days’ * journey (roughly 80 miles) from the city of Kiating. The intervening country is very rough, wild, and mountainous. ‘The road is execrable. Baber, the first foreigner to visit and ascend this mountain, as well as Mount Omei, gives its altitude as 10,545 feet above the sea-level, 4560 feet above the neigh- bouring valleys. My readings were 11,250 feet above the sea, 5150 feet above the surrounding country. Allowing for error in the barometer, I think the mountain cannot be less than 11,000 feet. The flora—always a fair guide as to altitude— proves it to be higher than Mount Omei (10,800 feet) ; and this agrees with the opinion of the natives, who assert that it is the higher of the two mountains. As seen from the top of Mount Omei it resembles a huge Noah’s Ark, broadside on, perched high up amongst the clouds. Viewed from a near distance it is seen to consist of a succession of tiers of vertical limestone cliffs, only seriously broken at one point, with a peculiarly flat summit. From the hamlet of -Ta-t’ien-ch’ih (6100 feet), which is situated in a depression at its base, the mountain is remarkably square looking, its four ‘sides being more or less perpendicular. It appears to be no more than 2000 feet above the hamlet, and yet it is really 5000 feet higher. When it was first pointed out to me, 20 miles or so distant, I could not believe it was Wa shan—it looked so like _a huge precipice, its massiveness belittling its height. - __. Asalready stated, the first foreigner to visit Wa shan was the ate E. Colborne Baber, who made the ascent on 5th June 1878. z he description of this mountain, given by him, is so accurate and beautiful that I cannot do better than quote it: ‘‘ The 245 246 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA upper storey of this most imposing mountain is a series of - or fourteen precipices, rising one above another, each not much less than 200 feet high, and seceding vey ae ae sides from the one next below it. Every individual precipice is regularly continued all round the four sides. Or it may b considered as a flight of thirteen steps, each 180 feet high a 30 feet broad. Or, again, it may be described as thirteen layer of square, or slightly oblong, limestone slabs, each 180 feet th and about a mile on each side, piled with careful regula and exact levelling upon a base 8000 feet high, Or, pethaps i may be compared to a cubic crystal, stuck amid a row 0 irregular gems. Or, perhaps, it is beyond compare. Some ¢ the tourist will go there and compose‘ fine English’ ; he ce not choose a better place for a bad purpose ; but if he is s than his kind he will look and wonder, say very little, am pass on.” _ It was on the afternoon of 30th June 1903 that I c at the scattered hamlet of Ta-t’ien-ch’ih, from whence t ascent can be made. This tiny hamlet is situated in an depression, locked in by high mountains on all sides. : Geprention Ss about © ns0e S0ns ee Seen Se ee nil broad at its widest point, a small lake surrounded by a luxu greensward occupies the lower end. A species of Delphiniv | with lovely blue flowers, is very abundant. The Chinese call i “ Wu-tzu,” and say that it is poisonous to man and cattle ali Around the farmhouses, maize, peas, beans, buckwheat, Irish potato are cultivated. The people here mostly ore : Christianity, and a Roman Catholic mission-house is the ¢ decent building in the hamlet. a Having procured a guide, I left the inn at 5.45 a.m. on J July, to ascend the mountain. Mists obscured everything a we set out, and it felt veryrawandcold. The path is the merest track—very sinuous, steep, and difficult. Rain commenced ai 2.30 p.m., and continued during the whole of the descent. We reached our inn at 6.30 p.m., drenched through and through. At one time a dense forest of Silver Fir covered the mountain, but this has long since been felled, and the majority of the tree still lie rotting where they fell. It is a common sight to see bushes of Rhododendrons, 20 feet or more tall, growing on th ‘La OO ‘Tl ‘NVHS VM WA SHAN AND ITS FLORA 247 rotting trunks. Some of these Firs could not have been less than 150 feet in height and 2o feet in girth. On the summit there are still a number of trees left, but none of great size, and nearly all have their tops broken off, either by the wind or by thesnow. This mountain, incommon with others I have visited, shows only too plainly the destructive nature of the Chinese. Fifty years more, under the present regime, and there will not be an acre of accessible forest left in all central, southern, and Western China. The making of charcoal alone imposes a very heavy toll on hardwood trees and shrubs. The preparing of potash salts is a common industry on the mountains west, and is another means of clearing away the vegetation in a ruthless manner. It is to the charcoal-burning industry that I attribute the marked absence of Oak, Beech, and Hornbeam. Besides the Silver Fir (Abies Delavayi), the only other Conifers are Tsuga yunnanensis, Juniperus formosana, and Picea complanata. Rhododendrons constitute the conspicuous feature of the vegetation, and their wood is, luckily, not esteemed for making charcoal. They begin at 7500 feet, but are most abundant at 10,000 feet and upwards. In the ascent I collected 16 species. They vary from diminutive plants 4 to 6 inches high, to giants 30 feet or more tall. Their flowers, also, are of all sizes and colours, including pale yellow. It was most interesting to watch the displacement of one species by another as we ascended. One of the commonest species is R. yanthinum, which has flowers of various shades of purple. The ascent of the mountain commences 100 yards or so from the inn; cultivation ceases at 6200 feet. Above this, for 1000 feet, is a belt, which has at some time been cleared for cultivation, but is now densely clad with coarse weeds. Among these occur quantities of Rodgersia pinnata, var. alba, Spirea Aruncus, Astilbe, and Pedicularis, with a few bushes of Deutzia longifolia, Philadelphus Wilsonii, and Poison Ivy ‘(Rhus orientalis) interspersed. Above this, for 500 feet, ‘comes a wellnigh impenetrable thicket of Bamboo scrub. The species (Arundinaria nitida) is of remarkably dense growth, ‘with thin culms, averaging 6 feet in height. Next above this, till the plateau is reached, is a belt of mixed shrubs and herbs, conspicuous amongst which are Syringa Sargentiana, Hy- 248 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA drangea anomala, H. villosa, Neillia affinis, Dipelta ve Ribes longeracemosum, var. Davidiit, Enkianthus deflexu Styrax roseus, Deutzia (2 spp.), Rubus (5 spp.), Viburnur (4 spp.), Spiraea (4 spp.), Acer spp., Malus spp., Sorbus spp Meconopsis chelidonifolia, Fragaria filipendula, Lilium gigas tewm, and the herbs of the lower cates A few Rhododendror occur chiefly on the cliffs. q The plateau (8500 feet) is about half a mile across, marsh in places, and densely clad with shrubby vegetation and E : scrub. In addition to those already noted as occuntialll ; the belt below, we here found Hydrangea xanthoneura, Ros sericea, and Aralia chinensis, also a species of Caltha and few Conifers. Rhododendrons become more abundant as ¥ advanced. Crossing this plateau we reached the north angle of the upper storey, and scrambled upwards by a nai rocky, tortuous path through dense thickets of mixed sh which gradually give place to Rhododendrons as the r ledge at 10,000 feet is reached. Rosa sericea, which was pa flowering below, was here a mass of lovely white. Two. three species of Lonicera and various Labiate occur wit this belt, and on shady rocks at least three species of Prim including P. ovalifolia. From 10,000 feet to the summit of the mountain Rb dendron accounts for fully 99 per cent. of the ligneous veget tion. A few Conifers, Lonicera, Rosa sericea, Clematis montan var. Wilsonit, Pieris, and Gaultheria make up the remaini one per cent. Of the herbs, Primula is the most noteworth Five fresh species of this genus occur, and amongst them, thou uncommon, the lovely yellow-flowered P. Prattii. A blu flowered Corydalis, Cypripedium luteum, with large yello flowers; Rubus Fockeanus and another herbaceous speci are other pleasing plants. On shady rocks the curious Bes neuxia thibetica abounds. This interesting plant was fir referred to the genus Shortia by Franchet, and was later mai the type of a new genus by Decaisne. The flowers are sma and insignificant, white or pale pink in colour. On bat rocks I gathered the pretty white-belled Cassiope selaginotdes. My attention and interest, however, were chiefly take up with the Rhododendrons. The gorgeous beauty of th WA SHAN AND ITS FLORA 249 flowers defies description. They were there in thousands and hundreds of thousands. Bushes of all sizes, many fully 30 feet tall and more in diameter, all clad with a wealth of blossoms that almost hid the foliage. Some flowers were crimson, some bright red, some flesh-coloured, some silvery- 9ink, some yellow, and others pure white. The huge rugged stems, gnarled and twisted into every conceivable shape, are draped with pendant Mosses and Lichens, prominent among the latter being Usnea longissima. How the Rhododendrons find roothold on these wild crags and cliffs is a marvel. Many srow on the fallen trunks of the Silver Fir and some are spiphytic. Beneath them Sphagnum moss luxuriates and makes a pretty but treacherous carpet. On bare exposed cliffs I gathered two diminutive species of Rhododendron, zach only a few inches tall, one with deep purple and the other with pale yellow flowers. - Dense mists obscured our view, though about ten o’clock the sun broke through and made a temporary rift in the clouds of mist, disclosing a scene which made us hunger for more. In one place we leant over a precipice and could hear the roar of a torrent some 2000 or 3000 feet below. Near the summit three precipices, each 40 or 50 feet in height, have to be ascended by means of wooden ladders. Up these I carried my dog, never thinking of the descent. On returning he got frightened, and though we blindfolded him, he struggled hard, and on one occasion his struggles all but upset my jalance. I was heartily thankful when safe ground was ached. It requires all one’s nerve to mount a ladder with 10 p balustrade, fixed to a vertical cliff 40 feet high, and on either side a -caabasaltoond abyss lost in the clouds. It is at 10,700 feet— idge not 8 feet broad—that the first ladder is en- we basered. | | From here to within a few feet of the summit he path i is terribly steep, difficult, and dangerous. On clearing he topmost ladder and the remains of another, we unexpectedly ached the summit by the easiest path imaginable—for all tt he world like a woodland path at home. 4 The summit is a slightly undulating plateau, many acres n extent, with thickets of tall Rhododendrons festooned with atis montana, var. Wilsonit, and clumps of Silver Fir, 250 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA the remnant and offspring of giants which once clothed t magnificent mountain alternating with glades carpeted witl Anemones and Primulas and tiny streamlets meanderin hither and thither. Baber aptly describes it as “ the mos charming natural park in the world.” : In times past several temples existed on the summi of which ruins only now remain. At present there is t one temple, which contains an image of P’u-hsien Pu'ss seated on a plaster elephant. It is built of the timber of t Silver Fir (Abies Delavayi) and was in excellent repair. a the temple a small patch of medicinal Rhubarb, a cabbages, and Irish potatoes are cultivated. } The partly shrubby Sambucus adnata and several including Pedicularis, Microula, Fragaria filipendula, and 1 elatior, range from base to summit. Fragaria filipendula is new Strawberry worthy of note; the fruit is red, more ¢ less cylindrical in shape, often an inch in length, and of good flavour. It is widely distributed in Western China, at Tachienlu I have enjoyed many a dish of this fruit cream from yak’s milk. Two days later I ascended a lofty spur (10,000 feet) of th mountain and added several new plants to my collect Of these I may mention Paonia Veitchii, Rubus trice Clematis Faberii, Ribes laurifolium, Potentilla V eitchii, P rotundifolia, Styrax Perkinsie, Aristolochia moupinensis, Ace Anemone, Pyrus, Sorbus, Berberis, and Primula. High 1 on the cliff Leontopodium alpinum and several species ¢ Anaphalis abound. Amongst the Sphagnum at least thre species of Lycopodium occur. On dripping, shady rocks an trunks of the Rhododendrons, a filmy Fern (Hymenophyllm omeiense) is abundant. a During the four days I botanized on this mountain I ac ¢ some 220 odd species to my collection. On each of th : days the work was excessively hard, and “ drenched to th skin ’’ but mildly describes our condition each evening as w reached our inn. On one occasion, through treading on son loose debris, I was only saved from being precipitated ove a steep cliff by the"presence of mind of a coolie who happen to be near me at the moment. . af WA SHAN AND ITS FLORA 251 _ Zodlogically, Mount Wa and the surrounding wilderness Js particularly interesting as being one of the places where ild cattle (Budorcas tibetanus) are found. I saw their foot- ints only; they were nearly as large as those of a cow. least five species of Pheasant, including the “‘ Blood” and “Amherst ”’ varieties. id I have climbed and botanized on many mountains in 3 sspecially flowering shrubs. Altogether, with its “rich flora, eculiar ‘erie its singular geological formation, and its agnificent natural park on the summit, Wa shan has many claims on the attention of the naturalist. END OF VOLUME I PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE CARDS OR SLIPS FROM THIS POCKET UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY & #00 €0 > Wall SOd JIHS AVE 3D M3IASNMOO LV 11