NPS ARCHIVE
1969
CASTER, W.

NEAR~BOTTOM CURRENTS IN MONTEREY
SUBMARINE CANYON AND ON THE AD-
JACENT SHELF
by

William Albert Caster

United States
Naval Postgraduate School

NEAR-BOTTOM CURRENTS IN MONTEREY SUBMARINE
CANYON AND ON THE ADJACENT SHELF

William Albert Caster

October 1969

This document has been approved for public re-
Lease and sale; its distribution 16 unlimited.

NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL

CALIF. 93940

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DUDLEY KNOX LIBRARY
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL
MONTEREY, CA 93943-5101

Near-Bottom Currents in Monterey Submarine Canyon

and on the Adjacent Shelf

by

William Albert Caster
Lieutenant, United States Coast Guard
B.S., United States Coast Guard Academy, 1963

Submitted in partial fulfillment of the
requirements for the degree of

MASTER OF SCIENCE IN OCEANOGRAPHY

from the

NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL
October 1969

\WJ ABS TRACT

Near-bottom currents in Monterey Submarine Canyon and the adjacent
shelf were collected using Savonius current meters. Simultaneous
measurements were made with one current meter on the shelf at a depth
of 91 meters and one meter located in the Canyon at 366 meters. Another
record was taken in the Canyon at the 366-meter location. Current speed,
current direction and water temperature were recorded continuously for
approximately seven days in each record, First-order statistics were
calculated and plotted for these time-series data. Scatter diagrams,
progressive vector diagrams and power spectra were also computed and
analyzed for the records collected during this study and for recoeae of
sufficient length from previous investigations,

Net current set was in a cross-canyon direction for many of the
records; however, the currents in the Canyon oscillated as reported in
previous investigations. The oscillations were not as evident on the
shelf record. Mean and maximum current speeds recorded in the Canyon
were 10 and 51 cm/sec, respectively. On the shelf these values were
7 and 25 cm/sec. Observed values of net current set and volume trans-

port are related to Monterey Bay seasonal water conditions,

DUDLEY KNox LIBRARY

LIBRARY
NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL MOKA g POSTGRADUATE SCHOO)
MONTEREY, CALIF. 93940 REY, CA 93943-5104
TABLE OF CONTENTS
ieee) ENRODU GT DON) saa ll
A, SUBMARINE CANYONS ---------------------------------==--- 11

B. PREVIOUS INVESTIGATIONS OF NEAR-BOTTOM CURRENTS

DN SUBMARINE) CANYONS 222224 02b 2k lu. _ ae eee 12
C.PVaURPOSE Gf“ THIS? INVESTIGATION <222<2-22s22e----2eeeeeeee 15

Me. RECKON“ OF OBSERVATION 2 oo-ce oso ssUeoSsostt Cee sal ee 16
A, MONDEREY BAY (as26e5cs2cceeett So seee ieeieesaaeee ase eee 16

B. MONTEREY SUBMARINE CANYON 2-2-2-------2-2-o5ee-5-52cccee 16

iit, MEASURING EQUIPMENT AND PROCEDURES -------------2.-.-.---.-= 19
A, CURRENT MEASURING SYSEEM -----s—---------5----—--2 oe 19

Bis < RELBASE: MECHANISM .--~—-- 22)49 5 ee ee Se 21

C. TAUT-LINE MOORING AND MOORING PROCEDURES --------------- 21
Dis--GLDE RECORDING -EQULEMEWE --=5—--—-- <= Sa SS See 03

IV. CONTINUOUS TIME-SERIES CURRENT OBSERVATIONS ---------------- 24
Ve ASTAAE wi ANAT RGU) warrant mate mene oicnmipas hSn Eela ae 28

A. DATA SAMPLING AND REDUCTION OF CURRENT
RECORDS PROCEDURES ------------------------------------- 28

B. SAMPLING PROCEDURE AND DATA REDUCTION OF

TIDAL RECORDS ------------------------------------------ 28

C. ELEMENTARY STATISTICS ---------------------------------- 28

D. POWER SPECTRA ANALYSIS -----------=-----------=----=—-=- 29

WT SMISOISS ON eee ese eee eee eee ee ee ee eee 31
A, GRAPHIC PLOTS AND STATISTICAL ANALYSIS ----------------- 3

B. PROGRESSIVE VECTOR DIAGRAM ----------------------------- 4.0

C. SPECTRAL ANALYSIS ------------------------------------<- 52

VII. CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS ---------------------------- 60
A. CONCLUSIONS -------------------------------------------- 60

B. RECOMMENDATIONS ---------------------------------------- bt

APPENDIX DIFFICULTIES WITH TAUT-LINE MOORING ------------------ 63
APPENDIX GRAPHIC PLOTS OF TIME-SERIES DATA -------------------- 66
APPENDIX SCATTER DIAGRAMS OF DOOLEY'S AND NJUS' DATA ---------- 94
APPENDIX PROGRESSIVE VECTOR DIAGRAMS OF DOOLEY'S AND

NJUS' DATA ------------------------------------------- 101
APPENDIX SPECTRAL ESTIMATES OF DOOLEY'S AND NJUS' DATA -------- 108
APPENDIX PROGRAM CONVERT -------------------------------------- 115
APPENDIX PROGRAM TIDE -------------------------------- woe eenee- 118
APPENDE ALY PROGRAM CURRENT ete ses. -- Si ai 120
APPENDIX I’ (PROGRAM COMPOSITE ‘DRAW +s -0se~ sous. - Sees se 128
APPENDIX PROGRAM TEMPERATURE DRAW ----------------------------- 130
APPENDIX UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA PROGRAMS:

FTOR, SCOR AND FCPLOT -------------------------------- 132
APPENDIX L PROGRAM VECTOR DRAW ---------------------------------- 195
LITERATURE CITED ------------------------------------------------- 198
IN PETAL -DIGTREBUTT GMCS sso- tee 2a See es 200
FORM DD 1473 ----------------------------------------------------- 203

LIST OF TABLES

OBSERVATION PROGRAM <=<2--4-2-2255--csh— nace eee ease ae 26
SUMMARY OF CURRENT STATIS TLCS <-<-<-<--=--ecpe=ee=aeeee==——= 39
SUMMARY OF RESULTS OF PROGRAM VECTOR DRAW ------------------ 51
SUMMARY OF sPOWER: SPECTRUM PEAKS ==-------<<--55-coeee=ee=s=—= 58
SUMMARY: OFSSLOPE OF SPECTRUM DATA. 2=-----4-<<5-2555559see" oe 59

, ae A DIPFICW.2 ies hey! TAT i ANE MOORING = seo teh entese ewer
LIGAT TO Ters f

APROX S CRAPHTC PLONE OP 1TMR-SERIES DATA Meet
OS APPERDIX“C”"ACATIET” oTRGRATS “OF ~neoLzr’s KARO MOTRANTIEL 0

CE RePERNTX D-~PRNSRESS TVET TECTO. SUTLARTAT BeCORRRRR “HO GNOME ‘a

“Hue DATA 3 eae ee woe <> mm we ene a S@® fe
[Ro Seen ne--neerea~--- WAG] AOTORY MANDORT YO QKIVeRs “90 Vane EE

=.) APPENDIX @ RPRCTRAL ESTIMATES. OF DOOLEY'S mes ' DATA --<<
82 tac pemlgel oe oe ee CHATS MUSTOSS 2 fan YRANIT 2

_ APPESDIY FP PROGRAM CONVENT -~--.- + Veen ne ee ree see ead ween
ee OR em re En ee em ee ATAG MUST ON & VW aIOI2 5O YHAMMU SS ¥
APPENDLE G PROGRAM TIDE -+ +s 06~ 00 ~~ nn nnene dnc ente~ ee tempera
APPEMDIE 4 PROGRAM CURMENT ---«<+-0~-a enna seanvemncwiie

° JAerEenDrr Ey PROURAM CONVO: Te ORAW ~~------~-- a ———

APPEMDLE: J PROGRAM TEMPEWATIRE DRAW ++-~=2--++---—2oee een

— © UWIVERS TTY OF WETYESH COLUMBIA PROCRANS:
Lisi FIOR, SUOR-AND PONLOT ------sensicine—+~antcnentine gua

"perme L PROGRAM VUESTR Tew: sina diem Stindaeenimat his «male
| hooped GLTED enn = panne mene Senn nein even hing

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FooM me 3475 a ee re
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- ad — - as 7 *»

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24.

LIST OF FIGURES

Monterey Bay -----------------------------------------------

Monterey Submarine Canyon

Strip Chart ------------------------------------------------

Taut-Line Mooring

Mooring Sites ----------------------------------------------

Histograms - 1148
Histograms - 1215
Histograms - 1118
Histograms - 1038
Histograms - 1533
Histograms - 0148
Scatter Diagram -
Scatter Diagram -

Scatter Diagram -

Progressive Vector Diagram

11 April
11 April
25 April
26 April

26 April

to

1503 18 April 1969 -----------
1149 18 April 1969 -----------
0714 26 April 1969 -----------
1357 26 April 1969 -----------

0052 27 April 1969 -----------

27 April to 0033 3 May 1969 --------------

1148 11 April to 1503 18 April 1969 ------

1215 11 April to 1149 18 April 1969 ------

0148 27 April to 0033 3 May 1969 ---------

1148 11 April to 1503

(e@heril 1969 .e--<se5o eae ese i ee eee ee

Progressive Vector Diagram

11g. Apr 180069 ai -£2 SCE Snot ee = -G8Ab -— eevee it —ettese=—e

Progressive Vector Diagram

Meter Arrays -----------------------------------------------

Progressive Vector Diagram

3 May 1969 ---------------------- 2-2-2 - 2-2 - -- ee

Volume Transport and Current Set vs. Months ----------------

Spectral Analysis - 1148 11 April to 1503 18 April 1969 ----

Spectral Analysis - 1215 11 April to 1149 18 April 1969 ----

Spectral Analysis - 0148 27 April to 0033 3 May 1969 -------

Hours vs. Logo Frequency

Composite Draw - 1148 11 April to 0848 13 April 1969 -------

sl

17

18

20

22

25

33

34

35

36

37

38

42

43

44

46

47

Ze
26.
Pal
28 <
29,
30:
as

32.

33.
34.
35,
36.
37%
38.
39.
40.
41.
42.
43.
44,

45,

46.

47,

48,

Composite Draw -

Draw

Composite
Composite Draw
Composite Draw -
Composite Draw

Draw

Composite
Composite Draw -

Composite Draw -
1038 26 April to

Composite Draw -
Composite Draw
Composite Draw -
Composite Draw
Composite Draw
Scatter Diagram
Scatter Diagram
Scatter Diagram
Scatter Diagram
Scatter Diagram
Scatter

Diagram

Scatter Diagram

Progressive Vector Diagram

24 March 1967

Progressive Vector Diagram -

26 November 1967

Progressive Vector Diagram -

21 January 1968

Progressive Vector Diagram -

2 March 1968

0848

0548

0248

1205

0915

0615

0315

LERS
1357

1533

0148

2248

1948

1648

1000

1110

1426

0945

1520

1230

1050

13 April to 0548 15 April 1969 -------- 68
15 April to 0248 17 April 1969 -------- 70
17 April to 1503 18 April 1969 -------- 72
11 April to 0915 13 April 1969 -------- 74
13 April to 0615 15 April 1969 -------- 76
15 April to 0315 17 April 1969 -------- 78
17 April to 1149 18 April 1969 -------- 80
25 April to 0714 26 April and
26 April 1969 ------------------------- 82
26 April to 0052 27 April 1969 -------- 84
27 April to 2248 28 April 1969 -------- 86
28 April to 1948 30 April 1969 -------- 88
30 April to 1648 2 May 1969 ----------- 90
2 May to 0033 3 May 1969 -------------- 92
22 March to 1340 24 March 1967 ------- 94
24 Nov to 2210 26 Nov 1967 ----------- 95
15 January to 2326 21 January 1968 --- 96
29 February to 1410 2 March 1968 ----- 97
14 May to 1526 21 May 1968 ----------- 98
26 September to 1250 3 October 1968 -- 99
17 October to 0950 24 October 1968 --- 100
- 1000 22 March to 1340
a nn en ee ee ene seee 100
1110 24 November to 2210
sel-st-Lives-L2-G4LL..-ebsectesd-Lestesed---6 102
1426 15 January to 2326
a i ww oe so ae eens ee eens ee 103
0945 29 February to 1410
we et enn nen nee ese san ne seen sen sciecere- 104

49,

50),

Salis

Ss
Shs
54.
5D
56.

Sie

5S).

Progressive Vector Diagram - 1520 14 May to 1526
21 May 1968 ----------------------------------- 2-2 e nner nnnr-

Progressive Vector Diagram - 1230 26 September to 1250
3 October 1968 ---------------------- 72-2 ene nn re ene ne ee rere

Progressive Vector Diagram - 1050 17 October to 0950
24 October 1968 ---------------------------------------------

Spectral Analysis
Spectral Analysis
Spectral Analysis
Spectral Analysis
Spectral Analysis

Spectral Analysis

22 March to 1340 24 March 1967 -----
24 November to 2210 26 Nov 1967 :----
15 January to 2326 21 January 1968 -
29 February to 1410 2 March 1968 ---
14 May to 1526 21 May 1968 ---------

26 September to 1250

3 October 1968 ----------------------------------------------

Spectral Analysis

24 October 1968 ---------------------------------------------

Lt

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The author expresses his sincere appreciation to Professor Warren W.
Denner, Department of Oceanography, Naval Postgraduate School, for his
advice during the course of this investigation. Thanks are due the
oceanographic support personnel who assisted in this study, especially
Mr, Jack Mellor; the staffs of the Computer Facility and the Machine
Facility, Naval Postgraduate School, and the crew of the School's
research vessel. The assistance of Mr. J. R. Wilson of the Institute
of Oceanography of the University of British Columbia in using the
power spectrum program is appreciated. A special thanks is due my wife

for her assistance in reducing the data from the strip-chart records,

10

I. INTRODUCTION

A. SUBMARINE CANYONS

Submarine canyons were first studied toward the end of the nine-
teenth century; however, detailed studies were not made until the 1930s
[Kuenen, 1960]. Veatch and Smith [1939] compiled a set of detailed
contour charts of the submarine canyons of the east coast of the United
States and the Congo Submarine Canyon. Work on the canyons of the west
coast of the United States was begun by Francis Shepard during this
same period. The report by Shepard and Emery [1941] on California
canyons is considered to be one of the most important papers in the
field Martin, 1964] .

The formation of canyons has been a much debated subject. Kuenen
[1960] suggested several possible mechanisms for canyon formation
including: (1) diastrophic origin, (2) warping of the continental
borderland, (3) artesian spring sapping, (4) mudflows and landslides,
(5) tsunamis, (6) hydraulic and tidal currents and (7) effects due to
the Ice Age related to excessive lowering of sea level and turbidity
currents.

Shepard [1963] suggests that no one process alone can explain the
formation of submarine canyons, He feels Chat some were caused by
diastrophism, turbidity currents and stream erosion from the lowering
of sea level; however, he concludes that more study is required.

Submarine canyons are a unique feature of the continental margins
and play an important part in local ocean processes such as sediment

transport, circulation, oscillations, biological activity and weather

11

conditions, Current measurements thus have an important part in the

complete understanding of the processes occurring in a canyon.

B. PREVIOUS INVESTIGATORS OF CURRENTS IN SUBMARINE CANYONS

Early investigators of near-bottom currents in submarine canyons
used Ekman type current meters, Stetson [1937] measured currents in
three canyons on Georges Bank and found the maximum currents to be
11.8 cm/sec during flood tide and 10.37 cm/sec during the ebb tide.
These canyon currents were higher than the shelf currents in the same
area. He felt that the currents could preserve the canyons but not.
form them. Shepard, Revelle and Dietz [1939] found maximum current
speeds of 26.9 cm/sec in Monterey Submarine Canyon and speeds in excess
of 20 cm/sec in canyons off Southern California. These measurements
were taken approximately one meter off the bottom at depths of 42 to
840 meters, Although Stetson felt the currents were strongly related
to the tide, Shepard, et al, [1964] using a diving saucer estimated
down-canyon currents of 10 cm/sec and suggested that the currents
might be due to internal waves, surf beat and seaward return of water
carried inshore by swell.

Gatje and Pizinger [1965] made 75 observations using an Ekman
current meter on nine different days in February and March 1965 in
the Monterey Submarine Canyon. The current meter was placed 4.9
meters above the bottom in 132 meters of water. The most frequently
observed speed was 22.7 cm/sec. There were eight readings higher than
25.7 cm/sec with the highest being 41.8 cm/sec and the second highest
30.9 cm/sec. The median speed was 10.3 cm/sec. Current direction
showed a bimodal distribution with the modes separated by approximately

180°. By comparing current direction with the Canyon axis, they found

12

that the flow was predominately up- and down-canyon, Current direction
reversal coincided with high and low tide but the flow was out of phase
with the tide, often by 180°; that is, down-canyon flow was associated
with rising tide and up-canyon flow with falling tide.

Dooley [1968] continued, in Monterey Submarine Canyon, investiga-
tion of near-bottom currents using Savonius current meters recording
speed, direction and water temperature. Observations were made in
March, April and November 1967 and January, February, April and May
1968, Measurements were taken at depths of 118 to 165 meters with the
current meters 16 meters above the bottom,

Current speeds averaged from 5.7 to 15.8 cm/sec and ranged from
zero to 51.5 cm/sec. Direction of flow seemed to be predominately
along the axis of the Canyon; however, other current directions were
observed. Direction showed a bimodal tendency for all records except
November's which was unimodal,

Spectral estimates of speed and temperature showed a prominent
peak at 12 hours. Speed also had peaks from four to six hours and
two to three hours. The direction reversed frequently at 12-hour
intervals. The consistent strong energy peak at 12 hours suggested
an association with the semidiurnal tidal component; however, no clear
relationship between tidal movement and Canyon current was seen by
Dooley from correlation of the Canyon currents and the tide marigram
of Monterey Harbor.

Interestingly, the currents exhibited rapid bursts of speed,
sometimes increasing 41,2 cm/sec in 1.5 minutes. The maximum bursts
would take only three minutes to develop and slowly decrease after

20 to 30 minutes. On several occasions sustained speeds of 41.2

18

cm/sec were seen to last one hour. Dooley found that an increase in
current speed, in most cases, accompanied a decrease in temperature.

Njus [1968] continued the study of near-bottom currents in the
Monterey Submarine Canyon. He made three moorings during September
and October 1968, each 12.2 meters above the bottom and at depths of
150%; 165 and 201 meters. He found periodic reversal of current
direction which was generally along the Canyon axis. Direction
reversals occurred primarily at high and low tide. The up-canyon
flow of cold water was associated with a falling tide. Speed
increased from zero to approximately 51.5 cm/sec and then decreased.
On the rising tide, the direction reversed and warm water flowed
down-canyon increasing from zero to a maximum and then decreasing to
a minimum to start the cycle again. Average current speeds for his
good records obtained at 165 and 201 meters were 25.7 and 34.5 cm/sec.
Power spectrum of temperature and speed showed peaks at 12.5, six and
four hours, and the direction of the flow exhibited several reversals
at a tidal frequency. There was good correlation between current speed
and direction and water temperature at tidal periods.

Squire [1969] used aircraft-launched seabed drifters to study the
bottom drift in Monterey Bay. He made two launches, one on 25 May
1962 consisting of 115 seabed drifters and one on 15 February 1963
using 172 drifters, Nine and fifteen drifters were recovered
representing a recovery rate of 7.5% and 15% respectively. Three
recoveries from the first launch were from the Monterey Submarine
Canyon. One was at a depth of 915 meters and two were at a depth
of 549 meters. Cumulative drift rate was reported as 0.07 km/day
(0.08 cm/sec) to the northeast for one of the 549-meter drifters and

for the 915-meter drifter. The other 549-meter drifter was recovered

14

1,456 days after launch; therefore, the cumulative drift rate was not
calculated. Drifters in the Canyon from the second launch showed
drifts of less than 0.06 km/day (0.07 cm/sec) to the east. In general,
the lowest drift rates for the Bay were reported from the drifters
dropped into the Canyon.

Shepard and Marshall [1969] , using the Isaacs-Schick continuous
recording current meter system, measured currents in submarine canyons
off La Jolla, California. Their measurements, 3.6 meters above the
bottom, of three to six days, included simultaneous stations of up to
six current meters and in La Jolla Canyon a vertical array of three
current meters 3.6, 19 and 34 meters above the bottom, They reported
that there is no relationship between the tide and current flow at
this location. Although correlation between two stations was high,
flows in opposite directions did occur. They felt that this suggested

cCeliiuiar Elow..

C. PURPOSE OF THIS INVESTIGATION

The purpose of this research was to: (1) continue near-bottom
current measurements in the Monterey Submarine Canyon, extending the
work of previous investigators into deeper regions of the Canyon and
onto the surrounding shelf, (2) calculate the power spectra and volume
transport for all continuous records of sufficient length using new
programs specifically designed for the purpose and (3) analyze all
continuous records to determine significant peaks in the energy
spectrum and trends in the volume transport, define more clearly the
relationship between tidal forces and the currents in the Canyon,
investigate the relationship between the currents on the shelf and in
the Canyon, and study the relationship of observed current set and

volume transport with the Monterey Bay seasonal periods.

£5

II. REGION OF OBSERVATION

A. MONTEREY BAY

Monterey Bay is located 121 km south of San Francisco (Figure 1)
and is in open communications with the Pacific Ocean, thus subject to
oceanic variations. Skogsberg [1936] has divided the Bay's water
conditions into three periods: (1) the Davidson Period - from the
middle of November to the middle of February, when the Davidson
Current brings relatively warm water northward near shore, (2) the
upwelling period - between the middle of February and the end of July
when cold waters upwell in the Bay and (3) the oceanic period - from
the end of July until the middle of November, when the California

Current transports cooler water southward.

B. MONTEREY SUBMARINE CANYON

The bottom of the Bay is cut by a large V-shaped, meandering
canyon called the Monterey Submarine Canyon (Figure 2), This Canyon
is one of the largest in the world and has two tributaries, the Carmel
Canyon to the south and the smaller Soquel Canyon to the north. The
Canyon extends seaward some 53 km into the Monterey Trough which
continues 51.5 km further with diminishing relief. Beyond the Trough,
deep channels have been traced for 250 km giving a total of 354.5 km
for the extent of the Monterey Canyon, Trough and Deep-sea Channels.
Side slopes for the Monterey Canyon range from 5 to 34 degrees; slopes
for the Soquel and Carmel Canyons range from 8 to 40 degrees and 1 to
25 degrees respectively. Monterey Canyon's axial gradient flattens
from 8.5 degrees at its head to 0.5 degrees at the seaward limit
[Martin and Emery, 1967] .

16

ay Pt. Santa Crug

Monterey Bay

Kilometers
From C. & G.S., 5402
Soundings in Fathoms

st

Mon TEREY

Cypress
Pe.

Figure 1. (ST,

L7

al

121° 50°24
: | Ni

Monterey Submarine Canyon

Yo

36°50

M53 Lanoive

Bld Salines

1 2

vilometers

From G. & G.S. 5403
Soundings /in Fathoms
i Scale }# 1:50,000

Figure 2. 46° 45°

?

30
=)

18

III. MEASURING EQUIPMENT AND PROCEDURES

A. CURRENT MEASURING SYSTEM

All the current data analyzed in this investigation were collected
with Hydro Products Model 501B Savonius current meters. This meter is
a self-contained instrument package measuring current speed and
direction as well as water temperature. The current sensor is a
Savonius rotor, the direction sensor is a coupled potentiometer
reading relative to a magnetic compass and the temperature sensor is
a thermistor. The readout package is a solid-state circuit connected
to a two-inch Rustrak paper chart recorder. A self-contained, re-
chargeable 6-volt nickel cadium battery pack is used for the system's
power.

On the scale used in this investigation, the speed range is zero
to one knot (51.5 cm/sec) with a threshold of 0.05 knot and an accuracy
+ 3% of the reading. The direction has an accuracy of + 5 degrees.
Temperature between zero and 40°C can be recorded to an accuracy of
+ 3% of the reading. Ay seven-day continuous record of current speed
is possible, but the temperature and direction use the same channel
and the system switches between these sensors. The three readouts
recorded (Figure 3) on the two-inch wide strip chart are distinguished
by their appearance as a series of dots whose lengths are proportional
to the recorded time for each one of the inputs.

The switching sequence for the seven-day recording interval is
continuous speed,direction for five minutes, temperature for 1% minutes
and neither direction nor temperature for one minute. The sequence then

begins again Franz, |1967]. The sensors and the recorder electronics

1S)

STRIP CHART

’ Hl ll tH Current Speed

!
t

=

Current
Direction

a
== sas

Water Temperature

|
|

ant
gC
Ol
O
O
ol
O
pill
fe)
fe)
fe)
fe)
fe)
fe
C
fe)

|
olllll l TIAL
CAUCE ART

Figure 3.

are mounted in a bird-cage frame. A 102 by 61 cm aluminum vane was
attached to the current meter frame to give better directional

stability.

B. RELEASE MECHANISM

The timed release mechanism used was the Braincon Model 422
release, The release mechanism allowed the measuring system to
return to the surface for recovery. After the timing mechanism has
counted down from its preset time, an explosive squib fires which
allows the release to disengage the line connecting the release and

the mooring weights.

C, TAUT-LINE MOORING SYSTEM AND MOORING PROCEDURE

Three moorings were successfully established during the course of
this investigation. The measurements were made as close as practicable
to the bottom to allow convenient setting of the mooring and to be
above any rock outcrops. The taut-line mooring system (Figure 4) used
was very similar to that developed by Dooley [1968] and later used by
Njus [1968] . Appendix A discusses problems encountered with the taut-
line moor.

Navigation was by visual or radar fixes from the Naval Postgraduate
School (NPS) sixty-three foot research boat. Depths were determined
using the vessel's fathometer. As the mooring site was approached, the
recoverable section was paid out and allowed to stream behind the boat,
When the proper location was reached, the current meter and release

were lowered over the side and then the mooring weights were dropped.

21

Taut T= Line Surface Float ae

|

Mooring |

2.27 kg lead weight

109.2 or 146.3 meters
of 0.635 cm polypropyl
line

Swivel
58.4 cm aluminum
subsurface float

~~Swivel
18.3 or 274.3 meters of

0.953 cm polypropylene
line

Savonius Current
Meter

Swivels

1.0 meter of nylon
line

Release Mechanism

5.5 meters of 0.635 cm
polypropylene
line

Anchor Weight

Figure 4.

22

D. TIDE RECORDING EQUIPMENT

Tidal records were obtained from a standard recording tide gauge
located on Wharf Number 2 in Monterey Harbor. The heights of the tide
are the same in Monterey as at Moss Landing and the time difference

of three minutes was ignored [ Dooley, 1968] :

IV. CONTINUOUS TIME-SERIES CURRENT OBSERVATIONS

Six moorings were attempted during this investigation and three
moorings were successfully completed. Two were set simultaneously
on 11 April 1969, one in the Canyon at a depth of 366 meters and
another on the north shelf of the Canyon at a depth of 91 meters.
A third moor was made on 25 April 1969 at the previous 366-meter site.
Dooley [1968] made nine moors. Five yielded data in excess of 50
hours and were reanalyzed during the course of this investigation.
Njus [1968] made three successful moors. The first did not record
current speed; hence, only the latter two were reanalyzed in this
study. Figure 5 indicates the sites occupied in this and previous
investigations and Table I summarizes the successful observations of

this and earlier work.

24,

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TABLE I

OBSERVATION PROGRAM

Dooley 1968

RECORD
LENGTH DEPTH } REMARKS /
(Hours) POSITION (Meters), MALFUNCTIONS

| 1000 22 Mar 67)

36°48 .09'N | 119 Testing Taut-Moor
50 | 121°48.53'w | |
| | |
| 36°48.10'N | W2k Testing Taut-Moor
28 | 121948.60'W | with surface recovery
| buoy.
: ent
| se fos 36°48.15'N | 128 | Ceased recording at
} 56 | 121°48.40'w | | 262210, normal
| | recovery at 272310
| | Nov 67.
1426 15 Jan 68| | 36°48.10'N | M3 | RecOvered buoyane sian
| | 153 | 121°48.60'w | | float by dragging |
' . 201500 Jan 68. Re-
| covered meter by
| | : | | dragging 081400 Feb
| | 68. Squib failed to
fire after clock time
expired.
36°47. 92'N 165 | Recovered in surf =
52 1-121°51.05'W | _ Moss Landing 20 Mar
| | 68, Time release
| failed to disengage
| | | after squib fired.
Speed rotor malfunc-
tion after 52 hrs.
NN OE eee
36°48. 18'N 110 Meter malfunction,

5 121°48.18'W | launched with diffi- |
culty in heavy AA ca ioe
| 36°48,18'N 95 | Meter ar miagecerioMs |

121°48.15'W | electronics fatlure.
36 Ong, 19'N | Meter malfunction,

0 | 121°48.20'W | electronic failure.
| | |
| 36°48.08'N | 104 | Normal recovery at j;

162 121°48.52'W | 211535 May 68. |
eT WES TCE a. Se

26

TABLE I (Continued)

Njus 1968
AUGER ES RECORD PRPS, oP
START/FINISH LENGTH | DEPTH
TIME (Local) (Hours) POSTTION |

(Meters)

to |
0033 °° 3 May 69 |

REMARKS

as a separate
record,

|
10 Sep 68 | 89.25 | 36° 47.90'N 165 1. No speed data |
18 Sep 68 121” 48.'90"W obtained, |
2. Rustrak recorder
malfunctioned.
\ 26 Sep 68 | 168.3 | 36° 48. 8.05'N
3 Oct 68 abi en ake 121° 48.70'W
17 Oct 68 | 168 36° 47.50'N
24 Oct 68 | Le 121° 49.35°W_
Caster (1969
| ) s| |
| RECORD |
START/FINISH | LENGTH | DEPTH |
TIME (Local) =| — (Hours) POSITION | @teters) REMARKS
\\ 1215 11 Apr 69 | 167.56 36° 47.98 | 365 |
: to Vo 51.58'W |
1149 18 Apr 69 | | |
==> See ee ee ea SS Ne a ee ae eee ee en t SY
1148 11 Apr 69 | 171.25 | 36° 48.76°R | B94 | |
68 | (121° 51.98'w |
1503 18 Apr 69 | se |
j 1118 25 Apr 69 | 19.94 - 36° 47,98'N | 366 | The current meter
to | d27° 5a 58" | | chart recorder |
(0714 26 Apr 69 | | had blank periods
see a ae | indicating no data |
(1038 26 Apr 69 | 3.37 | shad been recorded.
to | mei | | The record was
11357 26 Apr 69 | 2) | | broken into the
=<... . ye tines | | intervals
\\ }1533 26 Apr 69 | 9.32 | | indicated in
to | | the far left |
0052 27 Apr 69 | | | column and each
aaa | period containing
10148 27 Apr 69 (142.75 | data was handled |

V. DATA ANALYSIS

A. DATA SAMPLING AND REDUCTION OF CURRENT RECORD PROCEDURES

The Hydro Products current meter provided a record of current
speed and direction and water temperature, These records were
digitized at a sampling interval of 3.75 minutes. Since the temper-
st uite was recorded every 7.5 minutes, the intermediate values were
interpolated, The current meter data was processed on the NPS
Computer Facility IBM 360 computer using programs discussed in

section C of this chapter.

B. SAMPLING PROCEDURE AND DATA REDUCTION OF TIDAL RECORDS

The marigrams for the observational periods were digitized using
a Calma Company Model 480 digitizer at the Pt. -:Pinos Annex of the
Fleet Numerical Weather Central (FNWC). PROGRAM CONVERT Caneotaes F)
was used on the FNWC CDC 6500 computer to convert the digitized
information stored on magnetic tape to punched Beet bee cards. Proce-
dures for digitizing the records are outlined in Appendix A of
Robinson [i969] . The sampling interval of the digitizer was 0.01
inch; however, for this investigation, only every 0.07 inch was printed
as output and punched onto computer cards giving a sampling interval
of approximately 3.86 minutes. These data were then input to PROGRAM

TIDE (Appendix G) which provided a graph of tidal fluctuations,

C. ELEMENTARY STATISTICS
First order statistics for the current meter records were computed
using standard techniques in PROGRAM CURRENT (Appendix H) written by

Dooley [1968] and modified by Njus [i968] . A transformation of current

28 .

direction suggested by Webster [19642 was employed to facilitate
the computations for direction.
PROGRAM CURRENT provides:
(1) Hourly means
(2) Daily means, medians, modes and frequency distribution
(3) Time series means, medians, modes, variances, standard
deviations and frequency distribution
(4) Graphic histograms.
PROGRAM COMPOSITE DRAW (Appendix I) was used to give a graphic
display of current speed, current direction and water temperature.

This program was modified to PROGRAM TEMPERATURE DRAW (Appendix J)

to give a better display of temperature.

D. POWER SPECTRA ANALYSIS

Power Spectra analysis was performed on all the available records
of sufficient length using programs originally developed at the
Institute of Oceanography of the University of British Columbia (UBC).
The UBC system consists of three programs: FTOR, SCOR and FCPLOT
(Appendix K). The data is initially read onto a magnetic tape using

the following program:

C CARD TO TAPE FOR TIME SERIES PROGRAMS
C
DIMENSION TEMP(5), SPEED(5), DIR(5)
JCTR = 15
NCHANS = 3

10 READ (5,2001, END=20) (TEMP(I) ,SPEED(I) ,DIR(I) ,I=1,5)
WRITE (6,100) JCTR, NCHANS, (TEMP(I),SPEED(I) ,DIR(1I),I=1,5)
100 FORMAT (215,15F8.2)
GO TO 10
20 END FILE 4
REWIND 4
2001 FORMAT (5(F5.1,F5.2,F4.0))
END

Data blocks of 2” points, where n is a positive integer less than
or equal to 13, can be used and two or more blocks are required. After

the data mes been read onto the tape, FTOR computes the Fourier

29

coefficients for the time series and writes them on another tape.
SCOR then reads the output of FTOR and computes spectrum, cospectrum
and quadrature spectrum for the series. FCPLOT is used to give a
Calcomp plot of the spectrum. These procedures are described in

greater detail by Wilson, et al, [i969 3

30

VI. DISCUSSION

A. GRAPHIC PLOT AND STATISTICAL ANALYSIS

Plots from programs COMPOSITE DRAW, TEMPERATURE DRAW and TIDE are
shown in Appendix B. Figures 24 through 27 are for tthe “St ener array
located on the north shelf of the Canyon on 11 April 1969 while results
from the oat array in the Canyon of the same date are shown in
Figures 28 to 31. These are the first simultaneous records of near-
bottom currents in Monterey Submarine Canyon and on the adjacent
shelf. In the shelf record, the general flow is to the southeast ,
into the Canyon, particularly on the rising tide. At high tide and
for a few hours into falling tide the flow fluctuates, sometimes
changing to a northerly direction. Speeds are quite low, seldom over
11 cm/sec, and the highest speeds occur near high tide.

In contrast with the shelf record, records from the Canyon for the
same period show that falling tide is associated with up-canyon flow
and rising tide with down-canyon flow, This oscillatory flow has been
observed in previous studies in the Canyon, Maximum speeds reached in
the Canyon were in excess of 35 cm/sec and usually occurred with down-
canyon flow, although this was not always the case.

The 366-meter array of 25 April 1969 is shown in Figures 32 through
37. The direction is nearly constant at 165°T. Blank spaces in the
record indicate periods of no data on the strip-chart recorder. Dooley
[1968] reported a single mode for a record collected on 24 November
1967 at a depth of 128 meters in the Canyon. His record covered only
a 56-hour period and no further discussion was given to explain this

anomaly. Undoubtedly, local irregularities in the bottom topography

on

of the Canyon could cause variations from the expected; however, for
this record, it is felt that the current meter was not properly
recording direction. The speed record for the 25 April record shows
that maximum speeds normally occur at high tide as seen in the shallow
record of 1l Reet, Speeds often reach 51.5 cm/sec and remain over

25 cm/sec for Several hours. The speeds build rapidly to a maximum
and then gradually decrease to a minimum.

Figures 6 Paeeaeh wend the frequency distributions computed by
PROGRAM CURRENT of temperature, current speed and current direction.
Table IIL summarizes the elementary statistics for records from the 91l-
and 366-meter arrays set simultaneously on 11 April 1969 and the 366-
meter array of 25 April 1969. Histograms for the arrays placed at 91
rand 366 meters are shown ees 6 and 7 respectively. At 91 meters,
the speed is unimodal with no values over 25 cm/sec and direction is
capers with a we edontaare peak between 105 and 155°r, Mean speed
and direction for this observation are 6.7 cm/sec and 137° T; with
need deviations of 2.6 cm/sec and 63.7°. The 366-meter array
shows that current speed and direction exhibit characteristics
similar to those previously observed in Monterey Submarine Canyon
by Dooley and Njus. Speeds range from zero to greater than 25 cm/sec
and current direction ie bimodal with the modes approximately 180°
apart. Mean speed and Greco ton are 10,8 cm/sec and 156°T, while
standard deviations are calculated to be 7.2 cm/sec and 89.6°.

Histograms from the 366-meter array of 25 April 1969 are shown in
Figures 8 through 11. For the first 38% hours of the record, speed
remains less than 25 cm/sec; however, for the portion starting at

0148 on the 27th of April speeds of 51.5 cm/sec are observed.

32

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SUMMARY
START/FINISH |
TIME (Local)
| Mean
1148 11 April) Variance
to Standard
1503 18 April} Deviation
1969! Median
Mode
wry rit Ack ~ Mean
1745 Lh April Variance
to Standard
1149 18 April Deviation
1969 | Median
i Mode
. | Mean
1700S 25 Aprils Variance
to Standard |,
0714 26 April | Deviation |
1969 | Median
Mode
Mean
1038 26 April) Variance
to | Standard |
1357 (26 April | Deviation
1969| Median
_ ee
if Mean
1535 = April | Variance
| Standard |
0052 is April | Deviation
| 1969 | Median
— ea. e Mode
Mean
! 0148 27 soit | Variance
to ' Standard
0033 3 May | Deviation
1969 Median
| Mode

aes eS
|

TABLE II

OF CURRENT STATISTICS

WATER
TEMPERATURE S PEED
8.38°C 6. 67 ‘sore
0.04(0C) 2 6. Seitenlacee
|, 0 09 %G 2.57 cm/sec
8.40°C 6.2 cm/sec
| 8.45°C 7.7 cm/sec
16.860C 10.8 cm/sec .
0.07(0c)2 51.1(ém/éec)2
i {
| 0.97,°C 7.16 cm/sec
6.90°C 10.3 cm/sec
bal li 29C 4,12 cm/sec | _
| 6.96°C 4,12 cm/sec |
0.03(9C)2 32.1(cm/sec)2
0,.1:6°C 5.67 cm/sec
790°C 2.08 cm/sec
7.k2S6 1.55 cm/sec
PBe78°C oc Td Ta amysec. ol:
0.04(°C)2 | 4..24(cm/sec)2
0.19°C 2.06 cm/sec
670°C 13.9 cm/sec
6.63°C ss | 15,5 emfsec
b 6.2167 OC 6.70 cm/sec
0.03(°c)2 21.4 (cm/sec)
0.16°C | 4.63 cm/sec
| 6.80°C 5.66 cm/sec |
| 6. 75°C 4.12 cm/sec
1 6.82°C £| 15.4 cm/sec | 4
1 0.11(°c)2 108.2(cm/sec)2 |
|
0..33°C 10.8 cm/sec
| 6.87°C 13.9 cm/sec
7.08°C 3. 15 cm/sec

39

165°T

ee

CURRENT
DIRECTION

132°7
4057 (°T)2

63.2°T
130°T
115°7
156°T

8033.5(°T)2

89.6°T
180°T
-1900T

196°T
1252(°T)2

25 -4°r
190°T
165°T

ber

19 (°T)2

4 .4°T
165°T
165°T
~166°T |
582 (°T)2

94.,.9°T
168°T
170°T
398 (°T)2

19 9°
162°T

1620T

a a

Direction is markedly constant and is believed to be in error. Mean
speed and current direction for the longest portion of the record is
15.4 cm/sec and 162°T with standard deviations of 10.8 cm/sec and 191,9°,
These compare to a mean of 10.8 cm/sec and 156°T for the 11 April array
at the same depth. Tidal range for the last 80 hours of the 25 April
366-meter array is much higher than for the 11 April array at the same
location, This may account for the higher speeds reported for the
25 April array. Dooley's and Njus' time-series data revealed this
effect in isolated cases,

Temperatures for all records show narrow unimodal peaks with the
shallower record having warmer waters as expected. Means for the
24 88Sfanboad 91- and 366-meter arrays are 8.4 and 6.9°C with standard
deviations of 0.2 and 0.3°C. For the 366-meter array on 25 April, the

mean is 6.8°C with the standard deviation being f°!

B. PROGRESSIVE VECTOR DIAGRAM

A progressive vector diagram (PVD) is one graphic method of showing
a time series of current velocity. The diagram is constructed by
adding successive current vectors. As stated by Webster [i964] , the
temptation is to think of the diagram as representing the path of a
particle's trajectory; however, this can be misleading, since the PVD |
represents particle trajectory only when the field of motion is
independent of position over the spatial scale, This seldom occurs
in nature, particularly in shallow water.

PROGRAM VECTOR DIAGRAM (Appendix L) was written to (1) provide
a PVD from the hourly values calculated by PROGRAM CURRENT and (2)
calculate the volume transport at the array location. A scatter

diagram (SD) of the velocity vectors was obtained to compliment the

40

PVD using the PLOTP subroutine available in the NPS computer program
library. These presentations are new to the analysis of Monterey
Submarine Canyon current data. Because of this fact, the data
collected by Njus and Dooley are also analyzed and presented in
Appendix C and D.

The scatter diagrams of the data collected in this investigation
are shown in Figures 12 through 14. The first SD is for the 9l-meter
array of 11 April. It shows the predominate mode towards the south-
east. Figure 13, for the 366-meter array of 11 April, shows the
expected bimodal tendency of currents in the Canyon; however, both
northeastward and southwestward modes are skewed towards a southerly
direction, The longest portion of the 25 April 366-meter array is
shown in Figure 14,

The progressive vector diagrams for the same data are shown in
Figures 15 to 18. Successive 24-hour periods are marked with a “X."
Figure 15 is the PVD for the shelf record and Figure 16 is for the
Canyon record of the same date. Both of these figures show very
clearly a feature of the Canyon circulation not previously reported.
The PVD from the deeper array shows the cyclic wp-canyon and down-
canyon flow previously reported but also a net set to the southeast
across the Canyon. As expected from the SD of the shelf array, the
net current set is also southeast into the Canyon, The combination of
the two simultaneous arrays are shown in Figure 17. The net set for
both sites is to the southeast, particularly for the first 3% days of
the record. Since the Canyon axis for the 366-meter site is 085-265°T,
the set is cross canyon,.

For the period of these observations, winds in the Monterey Bay

area were very strong from the west to northwest. This would cause

41

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a longshore current to the south in the Bay. The bottom topography
of the Canyon near the 9l-meter array (Figure 5) would funnel the
south-flowing longshore current into the Canyon in a cross-canyon
direction. While the cyclic up-canyon and down-canyon tidal currents
would persist, this inflow from the north could cause the 366-meter
array in the Canyon to exhibit a net set toward the south.

The PVD (eieune 18) for the 366-meter array of 25 April also shows
a southeastward set. As mentioned before, this record is believed to
be in error; however, it is interesting to note that the net set shown
is in the same general direction as the set from the earlier array at
this depth.

Dooley's and Njus' records of SD are shown in Appendix C (Figures
38 to 44). The PVDs of their records are shown in Appendix D (Figures
45 to 51) and display the net current set for the periods of observation.
Njus' record of 26 September 1968 (Figure 46) at a depth of 160 meters
shows the cyclic tidal fluctuations and the net current set to the
southeast as do the records of this investigation. The remainder of
their records, however, show various directions of set.

Total volume transport for each array was calculated and divided by
the number of hours each array recorded data, giving volume transport
in cubic meters per hour. A summary of net current set and volume
transport for all records is given in Table III. These volume transports
and current sets are plotted in Figure 19 as a function of months in an
attempt to relate the current set and volume transport to the ocean
seasons of the Monterey Bay as defined by Skogsberg [1936] . The volume
transport and net current set for the 25 April 1969 record was not

plotted because as previously discussed, this record is in question.

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PROGRESSIVE UECTOR DIAGRAM

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PROGRESSIVE \
VECTOR
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Kilometers

Figure 18, 0148 27 April to 0033 3 May 1969

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TABLE III

SUMMARY OF RESULTS OF PROGRAM VECTOR DRAW

Figure | Date (Start ve Depth | Net Current | Volume
Number of Record) | (Meters)| Direction Set | Transport

erie | (or) heen ate elise:
sid

"000
22 March 1967 119 294 171
$$ af —E = ——— — —— a A,
UENO *
24 November 1967 128 228 | 486
wus , ee ee eee bios Bill = cde oe os | ar. 5
1426 |
15 January 1968 | 133 222 \ 117
ES eS aes da (Sea ier =
1010 | |
29 February 1968 165 O11 122
San Sev eee, eee: +) eee caver er ant eet Cae Pa oer ce 4 eee |
1507 is =| |
14 May 1968 104 138 : 85 iz
:
ee ba eee
1230 | | |
26 September 1968| 6a * "| 140 | 355 |
is eo Mf Ed S|) See
1050 " |
17 October 1968 | 202 | 190 369
a ——+- weed
1148 | | |
11 April 1969 | 91
Sn EE es eee | NS ee
1215
| 11 April 1969 366
—— Sa : |
! 0) 148 we
18 | 27 April 1969 om . | 548 |
_ 2a Me RP || ee eee ee ee ae

5

Current set is predominately south for the oceanic period and
the latter part of the upwelling period. North set is observed for
the transition between the Davidson Current and upwelling periods.
Although the set would be expected to be northerly during the Davidson
Current period and southerly for the oceanic and upwelling periods,
the dividing line between the seasons is not well defined and during
the periods reported in this investigation,set in the Canyon was to
the south during the Davidson Current period.

Volume transport changes significantly from the oceanic to the
Davidson Current period and through the upwelling period. Transports
of approximately 400 m°?/hr are seen toward the latter part of the
oceanic period and then decrease to less than 200 m3/hr during the

remaining two seasons,

C. SPECTRAL ANALYSIS
Spectral estimates of temperature and speed for the records
collected during this investigation are shown in Figures 20 to 22%

Figure 23 can be used to convert log frequency to the period in

10
hours. The short portions of the 25 April 1969 record were not
analyzed.

For the 9l-meter array, temperature peaks occurred at 34.5,
12 and 5 hours and speed peaks at 16, 5 and 0.5 hours. The 366-meter
array on the same date shows periods of 31.5 and 12 hours for
temperature and 35, 16 and 5 hours for speed. For the longer portion
of the 25 April 366-meter array, periods of 12 and 7 hours for

temperature and 22.75, 11 and 7 hours for speed are observed. The

consistent peak at 12 hours is obviously tidal,

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Hours
vs.

Log 10 Frequency

4
LOgig Frequency ——>
Pigure

56

Dooley's and Njus' records are shown in Appendix E (Figures 52
to 58). Table IV combines these records and those collected during
this investigation, For the longer records, periods of 22.75, 22.5,
12 and 11 hours are probably tidal periods. Periods of 35, 34.5,
31.5 and 31 hours are also noted and the driving forces for these
periods are as of yet unknown. Dooley [1968] used spectral program
BMDO2T and reported a peak at 12 hours for temperature and peaks at
12, 4-6 and 2-3 hours for speed, Nijus [i968] used spectral program
GHOST and reported temperature peaks at 12.5, 6 and 4 hours and speed
peaks at 12.5, 6, 4 and 2.5 hours:

Shepard and Marshall [1.969] reported that periods of four hours
might be associated with internal waves. The inertial period for the
latitude of Monterey Bay is approximately 20 hours; however, no peaks
at this period were observed.

Using Monterey Harbor tide records, Ranines [1967] found peaks
from 19 to 39 minutes, while Robinson [1969] using Monterey Harbor
and Santa Cruz Harbor tide records found peaks of approximately 30
minutes,

After all the records were plotted, it was noticed that the slope
of the higher frequency portions were decreasing in a similar manner.
Measurements of the slope of the fall-off portion of the spectrum
yields, for most cases, a slope of -1.732/1 (60°). Table V summarizes
the values for all records. Batchelor [1959] discusses the inertial-
convective sub-range (ISR) for turbulent measurements. A slope of
-5/3 (-1.66) has been observed for the fall-off of the ISR.

The slopes for the temperature spectrum are approximately the same

for all records taken from the Canyon. The spread is from -1.54/1 to

57

«2,,14/1.--. The..cecord..from..the..sheL£..has..a.slope, efan14533//:1..—For speed,
the slopes are -1.54/1 to -2.25/1 for Canyon records and -1.07/1 for
the shelf eed This mae indicate a constant method of energy
transfer for the Cancer records, but a different method of energy

transfer for the shelf record.

TABLE IV

SUMMARY OF POWER SPECTRUM

Figure Wanbed Date (Start Length of
of Record) Record (Hours)

1000
22 March
1967

1110
24 November None
1967

Pee

Periods
(Hours

| Temperature | Speed

1426
15 January
1968

ioe Ba
0945
29 Paes |
1968
1520 Pa ie

1230

1968

Pr detsboe

17 October 16 Dowdy Le 12,458
Pr setsber

ape | 34.5,

ia ape | 17 12, z

1969

24chneil 142 2, 2labie
1969 ll, 7

58

TABLE V

SUMMARY OF, SLOPE OF SPECTRUM DATA

| O48 27 Apmik 1969 0 bo 2.6071 | -B.54/ |

59

VII. CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS

A. CONCLUSIONS

Currents in the Monterey Submarine Canyon reach speeds of 51.5
cm/sec (the instrument's eyes: and obviously go higher. Normally
the speeds build up rapidly on a rising tide and decrease slowly on
the falling tide. Viceien is warm, down-canyon flow on rising tide
and cold, up-canyon Piteiae the falling tide. Superimposed on the
tidal up- and down-canyon flow is a flow probably due to longshore
current across the Poon, Scatter diagrams and progressive vector
diagrams show this effect, indicating a net current set across the
Canyon.

Currents on the shelf show lower speeds, seldom reaching 25 cm/sec.
Data from the array north of the Canyon indicate flow into the Canyon
in a southeastern direction. This is believed to be due to a pre-
dominate southerly longshore current caused by strong west to northwest
winds during the observational period and the bottom topography of the
Canyon which funnels the flow into and across the Canyon,

An attempt was made to correlate the direction of set and volume
transport with Monterey Bay seasonal water conditions, However, only
nine sets of data were used and they were of differing length, depth
and location. Nevertheless, there is some indication of a relationship
between currents in the Canyon and ocean season,

Power spectra of all data available show peak periods that
correspond to the tide; however, other periods exist and their cause

is not defined as of yet. The power spectrum program used computed

60

a raw spectrum; since the tidal influence is very strong, other
frequencies may be blanked out by the tide,

Measurement of the slope of the power spectrum revealed that this
slope is nearly constant at -1.73/1. This suggests a uniform transfer

of energy from low frequency to high frequency.

B. RECOMMENDATIONS

Further study of bottom currents is warranted. Continuous measure-
ments at several locations in the Monterey Submarine Canyon, on the
shelf area and at different depths would be desirable in order to
better define the flow characteristics in the Bay. A simultaneous
bathymetric and bottom composition study, combined with a study of
the water's physical parameters by either STD or Nansen casts at the
location of current measurements, would more completely define the
oceanographic conditions,

Ten records each longer than 50 hours are now available for further
analysis. Dooley [1968] and Njus [i968] have suggested re-evaluation
of their data by filtering out the tidal components. While more data
is needed, the available data should be reanalyzed in accordance with
their suggestions.

Two limitations now inhibit study of the near-bottom currents.
First, the amount of line necessary for the taut-line moor in deeper
sites is reaching proportions that cannot be handled on the Naval
Postgraduate School research boat, The system should either be
redesigned to accommodate the boat or research should be done from
a larger vessel,

Secondly, data reduction is a time-consuming task and limits the

amount of information one can collect and effectively handle. The

61

digitizer at the Fleet Numerical Weather Facility Pt. Pinos Annex
offers a solution to this problem. Not only would data reduction
be faster using this device but the sampling interval would be

smaller, allowing the investigator to look at higher frequencies.

62

APPENDIX A

DIFFICULTIES WITH TAUT LINE MOORING

On 19 February 1969, three current meters were placed in the

following locations:

Position Depth
36° 48.38'N 121° 51.9'wW 91 meters
36° 47.9'N 10. 5h, 7 Wr 366 meters
36° 46.9'N 121° 51.6'W 91 meters

These positions are approximately 5.5 km west of Moss Landing. The
R/V OCEANEER was used for launching. The southern-most array used a
subsurface float and release mechanism that had not been used at sea,
All surface floats were made of styrafoam, colored international
orange, and banded together between sheets of plywood with a short
wooden staff with a red flag attached to it,

The OCEANEER was to recover the meters on the 25th of February,
During the period the meters were in the water, extremely high winds
were experienced in the Bay. On the day of recovery, the center and
northern meters were found (one without a surface float) and the
southern meter and its surface float were not found.

On the 26th of February, both of the remaining releases failed
upon cocking due to breakage of the cocking pawl, so attempts to reset
the meters were aborted. Of the two meters recovered, one had
malfunctioned in the chart recorder and the other had little usable
data because it did not have the 102 by 61 cm vane attached and it
had been set for high scale speed of zero to 360.4 cm/sec. A decision
was then made to install vanes on the two meters and have the Naval

Postgraduate School Machine Facility make new cocking pawls.

63

On the 27th, the USCGC CAPE WASH (95310) attempted to drag the
area of the missing meter. Due to rough seas, high wind and the
Cutter's high minimum speed, the drag was of questionable value. An
Army helicopter from U.S. Army Base, Fort Ord was used the next day
to search the beach area from Fort Ord to Santa Cruz and back.

Neither the meter northe two missing floats were seen. Winds had
been onshore and it was felt that if the equipment had been missed
at sea it would have drifted ashore.

As soon as the meter vanes were installed, the cocking pawls built
and the Naval Postgraduate School's sixty-three footer available, the
meters were reset with the assistance of Lt. Dana W. Starkweather,
USCG and Major James Neehan, USMC. This took place on 12 April with
the meters being placed at the center and northern positions attempted
previously, After setting the meters, a drag was made for the missing
meter with no results,

The above two meters were recovered by the author and Mr. Jack
Mellor on 18 April. Although plans were originally made to reset
the meters immediately after they were recovered, sea conditions
dictated that the meters be reset under more favorable circumstances.
One styrafoam float was missing.

Two meters were to be reset by the author and Mr. Bob Middleburg
on 25 April. One meter was placed at the center location and another
was to be placed in 549 meters (300 fathoms) of water. As the meter
was being lifted over the boat's lifelines, the instrument package
cover snapped off and fell into the sea, so only the 366-meter

position was occupied.

64

The meter was due to surface on 2 May; however, it was not found.
On the 3rd of May an Army spotter plane searched the beach areas with
no results, The meter was finally found on the 16th of May in
approximately 274 meters of water (the length of line from the
release to the subsurface float is approximately this distance).
The cocking nut on the release apparently had not turned completely
when the release squib fired. It appeared that the edge of the nut
had finally worn away and released the recoverable portion of the
mooring, which drifted ashore until anchoring itself with the release
_ mechanism, The styrafoam surface float was never found.
Lessons learned were:
(1) The aluminum vane is needed on the Model 501B current meter.
(2) Only the low speed scale should be used for bottom current
measurements.
(3) After the current meter has been turned on, the instrument
package cover should be wired closed.
(4) The surface float should have little freeboard to cut
down the effects of wind, and if the releases are to be
trusted the surface floats are of little use,

(5) If at all possible, pick a period of light winds to moor
and recover the arrays.

65

APPENDIX B

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APPENDIX C

SCATTER DIAGRAMS OF DOOLEY’S AND NJUS’ DATA

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PROGRESSIVE’ VECTOR DIAGRAMS OF
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107

APPENDIX E
SPECTRAL ESTIMATES OF
DOOLEY'S AND NJUS' DATA

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LAST REVISION JANUARY 24,1969

APPENDIX K

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TRAN OCEAN PACKAGE

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THE CALLING SEQUENCES ARE:

CALL OCEANL

WHERE,

(KCHANs NUNIT »MAXERR,NFILE,NTYPE,NSEARH)

QUWVUOWVOVOQVOYUOY

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TANNVHD SSO¥D AHL HIIHM OANT AVUYVY JHL 40 NOTIVION ISdIa = N

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*3U3HM

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197

LITERATURE CITED

Batchelor, G.K., "Small-scale Variation of Convected Quantities Like
Temperature in Turbulent Fluid. Part 1. General Discussion and
the Case of Small Conductivity," Journal of Fluid Mechanics,
Vol. 5, Part L,epp. Lis-b3se 1959).

Dooley, John J., "An Investigation of Near-Bottom Currents in the
Monterey Submarine Canyon," Unpublished Master's Thesis, Naval
Postgraduate School, Monterey, California, 1968.

Franz, F., "Model 501 in situ Current Speed, Current Direction, and
Temperature Recording System, Overation and Maintenance
Instructions,'' Hydro Products, San Diego, California, 1967.

Gatje, P.H. and Pizinger, D.D., "Bottom Current Measurements in the
Head of Monterey Submarine Canyon,"’ Unpublished Master's Thesis,
Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, California, 1965.

Kuenen, P. H., Marine Geology, pp. 485-526, Wiley, 1950.

Martin, Bruce D., "Monterey Submarine Canyon, California: Genesis
and Relationship to Continental Geology," Unpublished Ph.D.
Thesis, University of Southern California, 1964.

Martin, B. D. and Emery, K.0., "Geology of Monterey Canyon, California,"
The American Association of Petroleum Geologists Bulletin, Vol.
Si No, L1;. pp. 2281-2504, Toe

Njus, Ingamar J., "An Investigation of Environmental Factors Affecting
the Near-Bottom Currents in the Monterey Submarine Canyon,"
Unpublished Master's Thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey,
California, 1968.

Raines, William A., "Sub-Tidal Oscillations in Monterey Harbor,"
Unpublished Master's Thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey,
California, 1967.

Robinson, David B., "Seiching in Monterey Bay,'' Unpublished Master's
Thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, California, 1969,

Shepard, Francis P., Submarine Geology, 2d ed., Harbor & Row, 1963.

Shepard, EP. , Curray, J.R.,° Inman; “DsL.; Murray, E.A.7 Winterer, E.L.
and Dill, R.F., "Submarine Geology by Diving Saucer," Science,
Vol. 145, No. 3636, pp. 1042-1045, 1964.

Shepard, F.P. and Emery, K.0., "Submarine Topography Off the California

Coast: Canyons...,'' Geological Society of American Special
Papers, No. 31, pp. /2-78,, 1941.

198

Shepard, F.P. and Marshall, N.F., "Currents in La Jolla and Scripps
Submarine Canyons," Science, Vol. 165, No. 3891, pp. 177-178,
1969.

Shepard, F.P., Revelle, R.R. and Dietz, R.S., "Ocean Bottom Currents
Off the California Coast," Science, Vol. 89, No. 2317, pp. 488-
439, 1939.

Skogsberg, Tage, "Hydrography of Monterey Bay, California. Thermal
Conditions, 1929-1933," Transactions of the American Philoso-
phical Society, Vol. XXIX, 1936.

Squire, James L., "Observations on Cumulative Bottom Drift in Monterey
Bay Using Seabed Drifters,'' Limnology and Oceanography, Vol. 14,
No, |) pp. 163-167, £969.

Stetson, H.C., "Current Measurements in the Georges Bank Canyons,"
Transactions of the American Geophysical Union, Vol. 18, pp. 216-
2S, USSF...

Veatch, A.C. and Smith, P.A., "Atlantic Submarine Valleys of the
United States and the Congo Submarine Valley," Geological Society
of America Special Papers Number 7, 1939.

Webster, Ferris, "Some Perils of Measurements from Moored Ocean Buoys,"

Technical Report No. 64-18, Unpublished Manuscript, Woods Hole

Oceanographic Institute, Woods Hole Massachusetts, 1964a.

Webster, F., "Processing Moored Current Meter Data," Technical Report
No. 64-55, Unpublished Manuscript, Woods Hole Oceanographic
Institute, Woods Hole, Massachusetts, 1964b.

Wilson, J.R., Boston, N.E.J. and Denner, W.W., "Digital Analysis of
Turbulence Data on the IBM 360/67 at the Naval Postgraduate
School,'' Unpublished Manuscript, Naval Postgraduate School,
Monterey, California, 1969,

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Naval Postgraduate School
Monterey, California 93940

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201

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UNITE UNE Ra
Security Classification

DOCUMENT CONTROL DATA-R&D

(Security classification of title, body of abstract and indexing annotation must be entered when the overall report is classified
1. ORIGINATING ACTIVITY (Corporate author) 2a. REPORT SECURITY CLASSIFICATION
Naval Postgraduate School Unclassified

3. REPORT TITLE

Near-Bottom Currents in Monterey Submarine Canyon and on the Adjacent Shelf

4. DESCRIPTIVE NOTES (Type of report and, inclusive dates)

Master's Thesis; October 1969

5. AUTHOR(S) (First name, middle initial, last name)

William Albert Caster

6. REPORT DATE 7a. TOTAL NO. OF PAGES 7b. NO. OF REFS
October 1969 202 22

8a. CONTRACT OR GRANT NO. 9a. ORIGINATOR’S REPORT NUMBER(S)

b. PROJECT NO.

9b. OTHER REPORT NO(S) (Any other numbers that may be assigned
this report)

10. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT

This document has been approved for public release and sale; its distribution
is unlimited.

11. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES 12. SPONSORING MILITARY ACTIVITY

Naval Postgraduate School
Monterey, California 93940
13. ABSTRACT
Near-bottom currents in Monterey Submarine Canyon and the adjacent shelf were
collected using Savonius current meters. Simultaneous measurements were made with
one current meter on the shelf at a depth of 91 meters and one meter located in the
Canyon at 366 meters. Another record was taken in the Canyon at the 366-meter
location. Current speed, current direction and water temperature were recorded
continuously for approximately seven days in each record. First-order statistics
were calculated and plotted for these time-series data. Scatter diagrams, progressive
vector diagrams and power spectra were also computed and analyzed for the records

collected during this study and for records of sufficient length from previous
investigations,

Net current set was in a cross-canyon direction for many of the records;
however, the currents in the Canyon oscillated as reported in previous investigations.
The oscillations were not as evident on the shelf record. Mean and maximum current
speeds recorded in the Canyon were 10 and 51 cm/sec, respectively. On the shelf
these values were 7 and 25 cm/sec. Observed values of net current set and volume
transport are related to Monterey Bay seasonal water conditions.

DD "1473 Pace

N = 5
S/N 0101-807-6811 203 Security Classification A-31408

Sa

Security ——— = scemy Classification

Near-bottom Currents
Monterey Bay

Monterey Submarine Canyon
Submarine Canyon Currents

Ocean Currents

DD no 1473 (Back)

S/N 0101-807-6821

204

Security Classification

A-31409

PG

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Near-bottom currents in Monterey submari

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