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STIRLING AND FRANCINE

C1AR1C AKT INSTITUTE L1BRART

D-M-C LIBRARY

NEEDLE-MADE LACES

(1= Series)

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TH; DE DILLMONT, Editor

MULHOUSE (Alsace)

710

£

INTRODUCTION

Under the name of Needle-made Laces are comprised all laces made with thread with the help of a pattern and with a needle as sole implement.

This kind of extremely artistic work is of Italian origin ; it dates from the 16"1 century and may be regarded as an outcome of open-work on linen.

The earliest specimens closely resemble the handsome open-work on linen known as Reticella, the name being still used for needle-made laces of geometrical design, with square divisions.

By degrees the designs were freed from the rectangular form of the early models, leaf-motives were intro- duced and the laces known under the name of "Punto in aria" came into vogue. This was soon succeeded by a new kind stvled "Venetian point" with patterns composed of flowers, garlands and ornaments.

To the 1 8th century we owe all those different kinds of lace the grounds of which consist of fine meshes; all of French origin and known respectively by the names of Alencon point, Argentan point, Sedan point, &c.

Although those patterns that imitate the old laces are speciallv appreciated at the present day the modern style has not tailed to exercise a certain influence on the manufacture of lace and new and interesting patterns of this kind are beginning to come into favour.

y The execution of needle-made lace is often very laborious, especiallv those kinds which require to be worked

with extremely fine thread and need great practice.

We have tried to present our readers in the present album with none but such models as can be reproduced without difficulty, to which end we have limited our selection to such laces as can be worked with relatively

coarse cotton without losing anything of their elegance or grace, and are sufficiently simple of execution to be within the capacity of every one.

The album opens with a little explanatory treatise, followed by 9 plates with Reticella patterns, 2 plates, imitations of Reticella, done with braids and 2 plates with Venetian point patterns. To show our readers the various uses to which our patterns can be put, we conclude the series with 2 plates with small pictures of articles trimmed with laces the patterns of which are contained in our album.

At the end of the album will be found patterns on the same scale as all our models, printed in white on black paper. They can be detached and serve as they are for working the laces on.

Needle-made Laces - Ist Series

Directions for making Needle-made Laces

The pattern. The making of needle-made lace requires a pattern on black paper of a particular quality, which must indicate the outlines, veins and motives as well as the connecting bars.

To save our readers the trouble of drawing these patterns for themselves the}' will find at the end of the album drawings of the complete series of our models, printed white on black ; by following the white lines of the drawings the tracing is obtained.

Plates I, II, III, IV, V and X contain patterns for square and round motives to be worked in one piece.

Plates VI, VII, VIII, IX and XIII reproduce laces and inser- tions; in the case of the narrow patterns we always give several subjects of the design, and in that of the wider ones one complete scallop. These patterns are to be worked in pieces which are afterwards joined together.

For the wide lace in plate XI the squares of the middle stripe as well as the footing and the lace below should be worked separately.

For the Venetian laces on plate XII, the subject of the design which is too big to be made all in one, had to be divided in two.

Preparatory work. The first thing to do in working one of our models is to cut the printed pattern out of the book and place it on a layer of cloth or felt; then prick out all the white lines with a pricker, leaving from 2 to 3 millimeters between the holes, taking care to make a hole wherever the lines cross each other.

When several copies of the same pattern are required you have only to put several sheets of lace paper under the printed pattern and prick them all through together at the same time. You then complete these patterns by adding with a pen and with a light colour the white lines of the model pattern.

The perforated pattern should then be lined with two layers of stout white stuff.

Materials. Very twisted cotton or flax threads should be used for making needle-made laces and with none but a very evenly twisted thread is it possible to make really fine lace ; we advise our readers therefore to use the D.M.C threads for their work, these being quite particularly suitable for these kinds of lace.

Laces for trimming underlinen, generally worked in the linen are preferably made with very strong thread, such as D.M.C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) and D.M.C Flax lace thread (Lin pour dentelles).

For laces that are to serve as trimming for articles of dress and furniture in muslin and in silk a silky bright thread like D.M.C Alsatia should be used.

The laces are generally made with several numbers of the same thread. In order to be quite explicit, particulars concerning the threads and the sizes and numbers to be used for our models are given on the back of each plate.

1 *

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist SERIES

Should it be wished to do the work with finer or coarser thread than indicated by us the number of stitches and rows of stitches must be increased or lessened in proportion.

Execution of the work. In the making of needle-made lace, there are four different phases to be distinguished :

i) The tracing, which consists in covering all the lines of the pattern with a double thread.

2) The filling in of the motives with various lace stitches.

3) The connecting of the motives by means of bars.

4) The embroidering of the outlines with button-hole stitches. The tracing. The tracing is done with a thread of medium

thickness, which is secured at each hole by an overcasting stitch

made with a fine thread.

For our models we have throughout used D.M.C Special crochet cotton (Cor- donnet spe'cial) 40, 5o or 60 and for the seam D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d'Alsace) 3oo or 400.

The tracing of the princ- ipal lines is generally done with a double thread, the little secondary motives on the other hand, with a single thread. Then this thread must be car- ried to and fro from one end of the branch to the other, then unite it again at the point it started from to the second thread so as to be able to continue the tracing of the principal lines with the thread that has again become double. When you touch a finished part of the tracing with the thread you pass it

How to do the tracing.

between the two threads that are already fixed so as to form a firm web.

Figure 1 shews how a square is traced ; below, on the left we indicate how to bring the thread back from one branch and above, on the right we shew how to interlace the threads of the web. When a piece of lace is to be made in separate pieces only a single thread is traced along all the lines of junction; in joining two parts together the two single threads are united and in this way the two necessary threads for the tracing are collected together.

How to fill in the figures with lace stitches. The threads of the tracing form an enclosure in which the different fillings are worked. To succeed in doing this neatly and satisfactorily, cover all the parts of tracing you are not engaged upon with tissue paper, leaving those you are about to start upon at once, uncovered. Besides this cut out of a little piece of rather stout white paper a little bigger than the uncovered part, a small round hole which you place on the right side of the part you are going to work upon. This paper you move on as you work.

You cover up the finished parts as you go along with paper and do not remove it until you come to making the connecting bars. The different lace stitches called sometimes "Jours" consist of button-hole stitches set more or less closely to- gether ; by grouping them together in different ways a great variety

Fig. 2. How the figures are filled in

with lace stitches and how to embroider

over the outlines.

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Is' SERIES

of patterns can be obtained. With regard to the choice of lace stitches the kind of figures you want to fill must be taken into con- sideration ; open-work stitches are suitable for wide figures and close stitches for narrow ones.

The first row of stitches has always to be made over the threads of the tracing. We cannot here indicate exactly the direction to be

given to the rows of stitches and to avoid mistakes we advise our readers to pay close attention to the patterns on our plates. When you have finished a row of stitches you slip your thread one or more times round the tracing threads and fasten the last row of stitches to the tracing threads by means of overcasting stitches. As you work all the threads should be fastened off in the tracing so that no one can see where they are fastened off because the tracing is gener- ally embroidered over.

Figure 2 shews how pyramids are filled in with a close lace stitch. You begin at the bottom and working upwards you con- tinue to decrease the number of stitches each row on each side up to the point of the pyramid. All lace stitches should be begun from the bottom and the needle should be held point upwards and handled as shewn in figures 2 to 14.

There are numbers of lace stitches but we give here only explanations of those used in the execution of our patterns.

To those who desire other stitches we recommend our Ency- clopedia of Needlework or our work entitled Point Lace, both con-

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Fig. 3. Close button-hole

stitch worked in rows

to and fro.

Fig. 4. Close button-hole

stitch worked over a stretched thread.

taining a large choice of close and transparent lace stitches. The filling in our models consists mostly of close button-hole stitches which can be done in two ways : either in rows worked to and fro, as shewn in figure 3, or in rows going merely from left to right. In the latter case, in order to get back to the left the thread must be stretched across over the whole surface. In the next row the button-hole stitches must be worked over the stretched thread, see fig. 4. To give a lighter appearance to the last stitch little empty spaces may be left in the rows of close stitches by skipping some loops of

the button- hole stitches. Returning with the thread, pass it through the loops you want to skip, see fig. 5, then you skip all these

stitches, in makingthenext row of button- hole stitches.

Then in the next row, you set as many stitches in empty spaces as you skipped and in this way you get open eyelet-holes in the close ground. The places where the eyelets are to come in the close ground are marked in the pattern by little round dots; see figures 52, 78, 79 and 80.

Figure 6 shews the working of a flower of the lace figure 78,

Fig. 5. Close button-hole stitch with open eyelet-holes.

Fig. 6. Flower

in close button-hole stitch with

open-work stars.

Fig. 7. Knotted button-hole stitch.

s

NEEDLE-MADE LACES

SERIES

with the leaves in close button-hole stitches ornamented with little open-work stars. The stitches above described should be worked with a thread of medium size so as to get well furnished fillings ; the open-work stitches on the other hand are generally done with finer threads.

For the open-work we recommend knotted button-hole stitch, fig. 7. It consists of two button-hole stitches very close together, knotted together at the top by a third button-hole stitch set horizont- ally. It is worked in rows to and fro. To fill in the narrow bands

overcast bars are sometimes made, by passing the needle one or more times round a thread stretched beforehand. See the left top corner of figure 2.

How the bars are made. After finishing all the lace stitches you make the bars that connect the motives. For Reticella laces these bars are always traced, for Venetian point on the other hand experienced workers can easily work them with a free hand on the pattern by carrying the thread two or three times across the vacant space and passing it through the outlines of the motives. Once

Fig. 8.

Overcast bars.

Fig. 9. Button-holed bars in one row.

Fig. 10. Button-holed

Fig. 1 1. Bars

Fig. 12. Bars

Fig. 1 3. Bars

Fig. 14. Bars

bars in two rows.

in darning stitch.

with little picots.

with semi-circles.

with little rings

these bars are laid or traced they can be finished in different ways.

For the Reticella laces and for the coarse Venetian point closely overcast bars should be used, quite easy to make, see fig. 8.

In Reticella laces, as well as in very fine Venetian point the bars are also worked in button-hole stitch. The figure 9 explains the working of the button-hole bars in a single row. If you want wider bars you make two rows of button-hole stitches, see fig. 10. In this case the stitches of the first row must be sufficiently wide apart to leave room for those of the second row, which you work on the opposite side. Very wide bars are made with darning stitch for which you have to trace two double threads or else carry twice two

threads over which you make the darning stitch, by passing the needle downwards from above and upwards from below through the tracing threads, see fig. 11.

Darning stitch is also used for filling in narrow bands, as well as rings, loops, &c, see patterns 68, 69 and 70. For laces of a certain richness, you ornament the bars with picots in the shape of scal- lops, semi-circles and rings, which are always worked in button- hole stitch.

To make the little picots, fig. 12, you carry at the desired point the needle over a double auxiliary thread, held fast by the thumb of the left hand, bring the thread back over the bar and

XEEDEE-MADE LACES

I' SERIES

pass it once again through the loop of the auxiliary thread. This triple thread must be only just long enough to he covered by the three or four button-hole stitches that form the picot. When the bar is finished you remove the auxiliary thread.

If you wish to ornament the bars with semi-circular picots you make the button-hole stitches a little beyond the middle of the bar, bring the thread back three times, fastening it to the seventh or eighth stitch of the bar and make button-hole stitches over the three stretched threads. These semi-circles may also be enriched with little picots, see our models. To form the little picots orna- mented with little rings, you make button-hole stitches to the middle of the bar, then stick a pin into the pattern just above the tracing; round this pin throw the three threads necessary to form the ring ; which threads are afterwards to be covered with button- hole stitches.

It may be that the spaces to be filled are too big to be filled with bars only. In this case little rings can be made in the middle of the place that remains empty; these rings are then joined to the motives by bars going in everv direction. These rings being inde- pendent motives the threads of the tracing should be sewn first and then embroidered over.

How to embroider over the outlines. To make all the details of a design stand out well and to give more precision to the edges of the motives the outlines are generallv worked over with button-hole stitches. You lay from 2 to 6 strands of thread along the outlines and over these padding threads and the tracing threads you make very close button-hole stitches, taking care to see that the padding threads should always be tightly stretched.

Figure 2 shews on the left the execution of the embroidered outlines over the padding threads. These embroidered outlines may be left plain or be ornamented with picots, as seen in our different models.

How to remove the lace from the pattern. To detach the lace when finished from the black paper you have but to separate the two underlying pieces of stuff by cutting or tearing them apart, thus breaking the threads that fasten the lace to the pattern.

The ends of thread that remain in the work are then removed with a pair of small pincers.

How to put different pieces of lace tog-ether. When a piece of lace is made in separate bits these have to be put together so as not to let the joins be visible.

The first part of the work can be finished up to the bars and the outlines of the line of junction ; then it must be detached from the pattern.

The second part of the work is likewise to be finished up to the lines of junction, then you join the first part with the unfinished side to an unfinished side of the second part and complete the bars and the outlines that remain to be finished.

You detach the lace thus lengthened and make a second piece and add it to the two finished pieces; and proceed thus until you have obtained the desired length.

How to insert or encrust laces in a piece of stuff. Reti-

cella motives seldom used by themselves are generally inserted into a piece of stuff. In this case the outside threads of the tracing are only embroidered over with overcasting stitches set wide apart ; see plates I. II and X.

To do this you begin by marking out the desired place in the stuff with little running stitches, after which you remove the stuff taking into account what is necessary for the turning in which you tack down lightly on the wrong side of the stuff. You then baste the lace motive into the empty space with big stitches and fix it to the edges of the stulf with button-hole or overcasting stitches.

These stitches must be carried over the outside threads of the tracing and penetrate rather far into the edge of the stuff so as to

10

NEEDLE-MADE LACES

Ist SERIES

have a firm hold once the stuff that projects beyond the turning-in is removed.

The patterns of plates III and IV are fixed by means of button- hole stitches and those of plate V by overcasting stitches.

If the motives that are to be inserted are square-shaped the edges of the stuff may be secured by an open-work hem ; in this case the lace motives should be open-worked by means of invisible overcasting stitches.

Imitation Reticella Laces

Reticella laces, just now in great vogue, can also be partly made with woven braids, known under the name of "Reticella braids"; these braids imitate the needle-made forms which take so much time and trouble to make. These imitations give very effective results and deserve our readers' attention. We have therefore added to our album two plates of models executed with braids.

Plate X contains 7 squares for various uses and plate XI a wide

lace suitable for an altar-cloth or alb. There is no great choice of Reticella braids and figures i5 to ig give representations of the kinds most in use.

Figures id and 16 represent lozenges, one side of which is close, the other open-worked.

Figure 17 represents squares; figure 18 close pyramids and figure 1 g a narrow plain braid.

Some laces however require narrower braids than our model ; in this case a plaited tress made with bobbins, see fig. 20,

Fig. 17. Squares.

Fig. 1 5. Big lozenges

Fig. 16. Little lozenges.

Fig. 18. Pyramids.

IMITATION RETICELLA LACES

I I

19. Plain hraid.

should be used, or a plaited braid such as D.M.C Superfine braid (Lacet superfin), made in different widths. The making of Reti-

cella laces with braids is very analogous to that of the real Reti- cella laces, the only difference being that woven motives are substituted for needle- made fillings. You begin ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ by making the tracing

and fasten the braids on to the pattern at

Fig. 21. D.M.C Superfine braid. l

each corner by a little stitch, then you carry a single thread along the outlines of the

Fig. 20. Tress plaited with bobbins.

braid byfixingthebraidandthe thread together on the pattern. All the other lines of the pattern are to be traced with a double thread. When the tracing is done you finish the model like any other, making the connecting braids first and then embroidering the out- lines.

In figure 22 we shew, in process of execution, a Reticella square with braids copied from the square fig. 38 of plate III.

Fig. 22. How to make a Reticella square with braids.

For executing the laces reproduced in the following plates use the patterns printed on black paper

which are at the end of the album.

All rights reserved

Plate I

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

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Figure 23.

Figure 24.

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Figure 26.

Figure 27.

Figure 28.

Figure

23.

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Figure 29.

Lor making these laces, use D.M.G Special crochet cotton, D.M.G Alsatia or D.M.G Flax lace thread

DOLLFUS-MIEG & O, Societe anonyme, MULHOUSE-BELFORT- PARIS

All rights reserved

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Plate II

Figure 33.

Figure 34.

Figure 35.

For making these laces, use D.M.G Special crochet cotton, D.M.G Alsatia or D.M.G Flax lace thread

DOLLFUS-MIEG & O, Societe anonyme, MULHOUSE-BELFORT-PARIS

All rights reserved

Plate III

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Figure 36.

Figure 40.

Figure 41.

Figure 42

For making these laces, use D.M.G Special crochet cotton, D.M.G Alsatia or D.M.C Flax lace thread.

DOLLFUS-MIEG & Cie, Societe anonyme, MULHOUSE-BELFORT-PARIS

All rights reserved

NEEDLE-MADE LACES

Ist Series

Plate IV

Figure 43

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Figure 44.

Figure 45.

For making

these laces, use D.M.G Special crochet cotton, D.M.G Alsatia or D.M.C Flax lace thread

DOLLFUS-MIRG & O, Societe anonyme, MULHOUSE-BELFORT- PARIS

All. RIGHTS RESERVED

Plate V

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

For making these laces, use D.M.G Special crochet cotton, D.M.C Alsatia or D.M.C Flax lace thread

DOLLFUS-MIEG & C'% Societe anonyme, MULHOUSE-BKLFORT-PARIS

All rights reserved

NEEDLE-MADE LACES

Ist Series

Plate VI

Figure 53.

Figure 54.

Figure 55.

Figure 56. Figure 57. Figure 58.

For making these laces, use D.M.G Special crochet cotton, D.M.G Alsatia or D.M.G Flax lace thread

DOLLFUS-MIEG & Cie, Socidte anonyme, MULHOUSE-BELFORT-PARIS

All rights reserved

NEEDLE-MADE LACES 1st Series

Plate VII

Figure 61.

Figure 62.

Figure 63.

Figure 64.

For making these laces, use D.M.G Special crochet cotton, D.M.C Alsatia or D.M.G Flax lace thread

DOLLFUS-MIEG & C'% Socicte anonyme, MULHOUSE-BELFORT- PARIS

All rights reserved

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Plate VIII

Figure 63.

Figure 66.

Figure 67.

For making these laces, use D.M.G Special crochet cotton, D.M.C Alsatia or D.M.C Flax lace thread

DOLLFUS-MIEG & O, Societe anonyme, MULHOUSE-BELFORT- PARIS

All rights reserved

Plate IX

NEEDLE-MADE LACES V1 Series

Figure 68.

Figure Oij.

For making these laces, use D.M.G Special crochet cotton, D.M.C Alsatia or D.M.G Flax lace thread

DOLEFUS-MIEG & Cie, Societe anonyme, MULHOUSE-BELFOR T-PARIS

2 *

All rights reserved

Plate X

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Figure 70.

Figure 71.

Figure 72.

Figure 73.

Figure 74.

Figure 75.

Figure 76.

For making these laces, use D.M.G Special crochet cotton, D.M.C Alsatia or D.M.G Flax lace thread

DOLLFUS-MIEG & Cie, Societe anonyme, MULHOUSE-BELFORT- PARIS

Al.I. RIGHTS RESERVED

Plate XI

NEEDLE-MADE LACES V1 Series

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Figure 77.

For making this lace, use D.M.C Special crochet cotton, D.M.G Alsatia or D.M.C Flax lace thread

DOLLFUS-MIEG & O, Societe anonyme, MULHOUSE-BELFORT- PARIS

All rights reserved

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Plate XII

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Figure 78.

Figure 79.

For making these laces, use D.M.G Special crochet cotton, D.M.G Alsatia or D.M.G Flax lace thread

DOLLFUS-MIEG & Cie, Societe anonyme, MULHOUSE-BELFORT-PARIS

All rights reserved

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Plate XIII

Figure 80.

For making this lace, use D.M.G Special crochet cotton, D.M.G Alsatia or D.M.C Flax lace thread

DOLLFUS-MIEG & O, Socidte anonyme, MULHOUSE-BELFORT-PARIS

Directions for working the models of Plate XIV

Two pincushions

(See figures 38, 48, 64 and 68 as well as the patterns of plates V and XIV.)

Begin with making the laces after the models shown above. Insert the laces into an ecru cambric.

The pincushions made of linen and stuffed with horsehair are enclosed in a pink silk case edged with pink cord.

Sachets for handkerchiefs and gloves

(See figures 3i, 41, 61 and 63, also the patterns of plates II. XIV and XV.)

Begin with the laces, which are to be made after the patterns indicated above. Introduce the lace into white cambric.

The handkerchief sachet is made of pale blue satin, edged with silk cord and tied with ribbons.

The glove sachet is made of old gold satin and trimmed outside with cord of the same colour. A yellow ribbon is passed round the middle of the glove sachet on the satin of the foundation and under the little squares of lace ; this ribbon serves to fasten the sachet.

Two reticules

(See figures 39 and 58, also the patterns of plates VI and XIV.)

Begin with making the laces after the patterns indicated above. Introduce the laces into ecru silk.

Line the reticules with violet or red stuff and fasten with a ribbon to match, drawn through a runner at the top.

All rights reserved

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Plate XIV

Lor making the laces of this plate, use D.M.G Special crochet cotton, D.M.G Alsatia or D.M.G Flax lace thread

DOLLFUS-MIEG & Cie, Socidt* anonyme, MULHOUSK-BELFORT- PARIS

Directions for working the models of Plate XV

Two aprons

(See figures 67 and 74, also the patterns of plates VIII and X.)

Begin with making the laces after the patterns indicated above. Introduce the laces into ecru linen. They are edged with a row of little overcast bars.

The aprons, gathered at the top are tied with beige ribbon.

Linen waistcoat for ladies' dresses

(See figures 26 and 62, also the patterns of plates I and XV.)

Begin with making the laces after the patterns indicated above. Introduce the square motives into white linen ; the collar of the waistcoat is made of linen on which the lace is applied. The waistcoat is lined with coloured silk which shows up the lace squares.

All rights reserved

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Plate XV

For making the laces of this plate, use D.M.C Special crochet cotton, D.M.G Alsatia or D.M.C Flax lace thread

DOLLFUS-MIEG & C'% Societe anonyme, MULHOUSE-BELFORT- PARIS

PATTERNS

for the laces of plates I to XV

(See pages 5 and 6 for directions relative to the use of these patterns.)

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All rights reserved

NEEDLE-MADE LACES - Ist Series

Patterns of Plate I

Pattern of figure 23.

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Pattern of figure 24.

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Pattern of figure 25.

Pattern of figure 26.

Pattern of figure 27.

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Pattern of figure 28.

Pattern of figure 29.

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the laces of this plate.

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PLATE I

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1

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For executing the figures 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 and 29 use one of the articles

indicated below:

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Articles to be used :

D.M.C Special crochet cotton. (Cordonnet special)

D.M.C Flax lace thread

(Lin pour dentelles)

D.M.C Alsatia

For For the For the corded bars

the tracing:'"') lace stitches : and the button-hole stitch :

....N° 50 50

.N° 40.

,N° 40.

40.

.N° 50. .N° 30.

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(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fii d'Aisace) 400 for fixing the threads ol the tracing.

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All rights reserved

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

terns of Plate II

Pattern of figure 30.

Pattern of figure 3 1 .

Pattern of figure 32.

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Partem of figure 35.

Pattern of figure 34.

Pattern of figure 35.

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the laces of this plate.

PLATE II

For executing the figures 3o, 3i, 32, 33. 34 and 35 use one of the articles

indicated below :

.' 1 1

i

HI

Articles to be used :

For the tracing : (*)

For the open-work lace stitches :

For the close lace stitches :

For the corded bars and the button-hole stitch :

u9

D.M.C Special crochet cotton

(Cordonnet special) D.M.C Flax lace thread

(Lin pour dentelles)

50

35

100

50

jo

NT> $5

\T" 10

NT> 50

I

ML

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d' Alsace) 400 for fixing the threads of the tracing.

I»m13B

'• ,'•! '

« 1 At . '

•. ■> TVm

'•;./j

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i^Vy

gv

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«s

1 1

1 H

5tc5t

■■

la e£;

"JRi

£*SI ml

EPvE

fSWv»*

#$ȣ

Sj&yQ

■Vk;*

'JRfloM

,Wtr

1 Jl ' ^

All rights reserve!

Patterns of Plate III

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Pattern of figure 36.

•>.r

\ .'

Pattern of figure 40.

Pattern of figure 37.

.««&»

I%|>

bVS!

Pattern of figure 38.

]W|

ft'.'

Pattern of figure 4 1 .

Pattern of figure 39.

Hi

Pattern of figure 42.

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the laces of this plate.

PLATE III

For executing the figures 36, 39, 40, 41 and 42 use one of the articles indicated below

Articles to be used :

D.M.C Special crochet cotton.

(Cordonnet special) D.M.C Flax lace thread

(Lin pour dentelles)

For For the

the tracing :(*) overcast bars :

For the close lace stitc For the button-

arxd the corded bars : hole stitch :

•N° 60

.N° 40

.N° TOO.

•-N' 35

N'

50,

For executing the figures 3y and 38 use one of the articles indicated below

Articles to be used : . . °r „,

the tracing : ( )

For the lace stitches and the corded bars :

; For the button- hole stitch :

D.M.C Special crochet cotton. 60

(Cordonnet special)

D.M.C Flax lace thread 40

(Lin pour dentelles)

,.N° 60

. . ,N° 50 35

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d' Alsace) 400 lor fixing the threads of the tracing.

Al: right? re

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Pattern of figure 43.

Patterns of figure 45 .

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the laces of this plate.

4¥,

ura

H

PLATE IV

For executing the figure 43 use one of the articles indicated below

Articles to be used :

D.M.C Special crochet cotton. (Cordonnet special)

D.M.C Flax lace thread

(Lin pour dentelles) D.M.C Alsatia

For For the lace stitches, the corded bars

the tracing : (*) and the button-hole stitch :

.N° 40.

.N° 30.

.N° 40.

,N° 20..

..N° 16.

.N'J 25

For executing the figures 44 and 46 use one of the articles indicated below

Articles to be used :

For

I the tracing: (*) overcast bar

For the lace stitches, the corded bars and the button-hole stitch :

D.M.C Special crochet cotton.

(Cordonnet special) D.M.C Flax iace thread

(Lin pour dentelles)

.N° 40. .N° 30.

.N" 80.

.N° 4

.N° 30.

.N° 20.

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d'Alsace) 300 for fixing the threads of the tracing.

An. RIGHTS RESERVED

Pattkkns of Plate V

Pattern of figure 4.0 ,

Pattern of ri^ure 49.

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

J'-'! *:••''

/ ^ if M\\

Pattern of figure 47.

w

Pattern of hgure 48 .

olfi

:viiTf

m

m

V"

•a

Pattern of figure 50.

fi.'.V

Pattern of figure 5 1 .

Pattern of figure 52.

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the laces of this plate.

> <ft&W*

'..:*"- /*>

'1te I -Mr'

PLATE V

For executing the figures 46, 47, 48, 49, 5o, 5i and 52 use one of the articles

indicated below :

.'-•■

I 1 1

H I '•■'*.' « , i

iflfi

Articles to be used :

For

the tracing : (*)

For the open-work lace stitches :

For the close lace stitches and the corded bars :

For the button- hole stitch :

D.M.C Special crochet cotton ,

(Cordonnet special)

(Lin pour dentelles)

N6 50

......N< 35

50

50

N> 35

40

30

SHI *vr .

I

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d'Alsace) 400 lor fixing the threads of the tracing.

A *

m

•".•■;

^1

§Sl39g§

'f

m

iKi.

All rights reserved

I

NEEDLE-MADE LACES l8t Series

piSSiSSiSSiSSiSSjR

Pattern of figure

U@^

sap

■!%■■

^^Bal

Pattern of

, '.TV

Pattern of ngur:

'.L *.*

Pattern of figure 57.

rv

Pif j .

Patterns of Plait VI

■V9 v^CT

r jiflE

m^i

1

1

PP^

» ,i

era of figure 5 5 .

Pattern ot figure 58.

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the laces of this plate.

R

'■

I

31:

H

i -•. »

'

mm ■■■

PLATE VI

For executing the figures 53, 64, 55, 56, 5j and 58 use one of the articles

indicated below :

Articles to be used :

the ti

For the open-work For the close

-

v 1

D.M.C Special crochet cotton

(Cordonnet special)

D.M.C Flax lace thread

(Lin pour dentelles)

.Nc 50.

•Nc' 35-

lace stitches

.Nc' 100.

50.

For the corded bars

lace stitches : and the button-holt stitch

.N° 50.

•N° 35-

40.

Nc 30.

••»

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d'Alsace) 400 for fixing the threads of the tracing.

*wH \ ■•*'*'■:>■

HP

ukm.

HHL

All rights reserved

NEEDLE-MADE LACES I9t Series

Patterns of Pl.vte VII

I

Pattern of figure 59.

•>

Ml

Pattern ot figure 60.

<

Pattern of figure 61,

Partem of hgure 62.

MM titm

wjimjn

Pattern of figure 63.

Pattern ot agure 64.

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the laces of this plate.

U:<

.*

»'S>*-

Hi.

*.♦.

H

■P

P*^

PLATE VII

For executing the figures 5q. 60, 61, 62, 63 and 64 use one of the articles

indicated below :

Articles to be used :

1

For

the tracing : (*)

For the open-work lace stitches :

For the close lace stitches :

For the corded bars and the button-hole stitch :

D.M.C Special crochet cotton

(Cordonnet special) D.M.C Flax lace thread i

(Lin pour dentelles)

50

N& y}

100.......

50

........N° 50

■v 35

40 •■

50

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d'Alsace) Nc 400 lor fixing the threads of the tracing.

' RltlHTS BK.VcWVKD

mm.

Pattern of figure 65.

Patterns of Plate VIII

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

r W

Pattern of figure 66.

I

HS^ggl

Partem of figure 67.

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the laces of this plate.

m m

&»;

I *•>•.*• »

PLATE VIII

For executing the figures 65, 66 and 6y use one of the articles indicated below

Articles to be used :

For

the tracing : (*)

For the open-work lace stitches :

For the close lace stitches and the corded bars :

For the button- hole stitch ;

D.M.C Special crochet cotton

(Cordonnet special) D.M.C Flax lace thread

(Lin pour dentelles)

50

N* 35

N" 80....

N°45

40

N" 30

30

Nc 20

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d'Alsace) 400 for fixing the threads of the tracing.

<-,*>.

U.L RIGHTS RESERVED

IE

Patterns of Plate IX

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Pattern of figure 68.

np

m/v

Pattern of figure 69.

M

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the laces of this plate.

if -L//tl X Hr 1 2\.

For executing the figures 68 and 69 use one of the articles indicated below :

Articles to be used:

For the tracing :(*)

For the open-work lace stitches :

For the close lace stitches and the corded bars :

For the darning stitch and the button- hole stitch:

D.M.C Special crochet cotton

(Cordonnet special) D.M.C Flax lace thread

(Lin pour dentelles)

50

N* 35

N°8o

N°45

N°4o

Nl° 30

30

20

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d' Alsace) 400 for fixing the threads of the tracing.

\l.L RIGHTS RESERVED

Patterns of Plate X

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Pattern of figure 70.

iff

Pattern of figure 71.

\. 1

&

Pattern of figure 72.

M£2

Pattern of figure 73.

Pattern of figure 74.

Pattern of figure 75.

Pattern of figure 76.

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the laces of this plate.

PLATE X

For executing the figures 70, 71, 72, y3. 74, 76 and 76 use one of the articles

indicated below :

Articles to be used :

For the tracing :(*)

For the lace stitches, the bars and the button-hole stitch :

D.M.C Special crochet cotton

(Cordonnet special) D.M.C Flax lace thread

(Lin pour dentelles) D.M.C Alsatia

50

35

40

40

30

40

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d' Alsace) 400 for fixing the Reticella braids and the threads of the tracing.

^K'.IITS RESERVED

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Patterns of Plate XI

Pattern of the footing of the lace, figure 77.

Pattern or the inner edge of the lace, figure 77.

A

••; t : ii

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the lace of this plate.

PLATE XI

For executing the figure 77 use one of the articles indicated below

Articles to be used:

For

the tracing:(*'j

For the corded bars and the button-hole stitch :

D.M.C Special crochet cotton

(Cordonnet special) D.M.C Flax lace thread

(Lin pour dentelles) D.M.C Alsatia

50

35

40

40

50

X" 40

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d'Alsace) 400 for fixing the Reticella braids and the threads of the tracing.

CO *■*

6 .3

PLATE XI

For executing the figure 77 use one of the articles indicated below

For

For the corded bars

Articles to be used :

the tracing :(*)

and the button-hole stitch :

D.M.C Special crochet cotton

50

N°4o

(Cordonnet special)

D.M.C Flax lace thread

35

30

(Lin pour dentelles)

D.M.C Alsatia

40

N°40

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil dAlsace) 400 for fixing the Reticella braids and the threads cf the tracing.

■HHW

LI' w

tTrlflrlMri

1811

Mwm

mwmBmwm

.y ' Jiif.

PLATE XI

For executing the figure 77 use one of the articles indicated below

■■

I m

Articles to be used:

For

the tracing :(')

For the corded bars and the button-hole stitch :

D.M.C Special crochet cotton

(Cordonnet special)

D.M.C Flax lace thread

(Lin pour dentelles) D.M.C Alsatia

50

35

40

N°4o

30

N°40

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d' Alsace) 400 for fixing the Reticella braids and the threads of the tracing.

All rights reserved

■aim1 \k

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

•IT'S

X

I

Patterns op Plate XII

J V..

Patterns of figure 78.

) \J L

)\J\J\J\

J u u U U U '

78.

1 '

Patterns of figure 79.

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the laces of this plate.

■^

PLATE XII

For executing the figures 78 and 79 use one of the articles indicated below

-»!M

A

;•«;.•,

nr

*. 1

!

i

Articles to be used:

j

For

the tracing :(*)

For the open-work lace stitches :

For the close lace stitches:

For the figures and the outlines in button-hole stitch:

| -... .. .... _ -.—.-. .... ■.., . ^. . , , . , , ... . 1 1 1 ,

IXM.C Special crochet cotton

1 x

(Gordonnet special)

1 DM.C Flax lace thread

1 (Lin pour dentelles)

!

60

N* 40

IOO

50

60

! 40

50

N*3S

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d'AIsace) Kw 400 for fixing the threads of the tracing.

All rights reserved

.

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

I

Patterns of figure 80.

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the lace of this plate.

I 4

I

;* »

For executing the figure 80 use one of the articles indicated below :

w

^m

1

I

Articles to be used:

For the tracing :(*)

For the lace stitches, the corded bars and the button-holed outlines :

20

16

25

D.M.C Special crochet cotton

(Cordonnet special) D.M.C Flax lace thread

(Lin pour dentelles)

D.M.C Alsatia

40

30

40

■M.

1 1 '

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d' Alsace) 500 for fixing the threads of the tracing.

All rights reserved

Patterns of Platk XIV

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Pattern for the lace of the left pincushion.

Pattern for the little squares of the right pincushion.

BffiH

m

MS

Pattern for the squares of the left reticule.

mm

Pattern for the big squares of the right pincushion.

»iS'

Pattern for the square of the handkerchief sachet. Pattern for the lace of the handkerchief sachet.

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the laces of this plate.

I

I

m

<: '

PLATE XIV

For executing the laces of this plate use one of the articles indicated below

«

Articles to be used :

For

the tracing :(*)

For the open-work lace stitches :

For the close lace stitches :

For the corded bars and the button-hole stitch :

j D.M.C Special crochet cotton

(Cordonnet special)

D.M.C Fiax lace thread

j (Lin pour dentelles)

50

35

100

50

*

50

35

40

30

H

m

1 1 I

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d'Alsace) 400 for fixing the threads of the tracing.

All rights reserved

Patterns of Plates XIV and XV

NEEDLE-MADE LACES Ist Series

Pattern for the collar ot the plastron.

ms

9A

Pattern

for the squares

of the glove sachet.

Pattern

for the squares

or the glove sachet.

Pattern for the collar ot the plastron.

See at the back directions as to the materials to be used for the laces of these plates.

PLATES XIV and XV

For executing the laces of these plates use one of the articles indicated below

Articles to be used :

For the tracing :(*)

For the open-work lace stitches:

100..

50.....

For the close lace stitches:

50...

-N° 35

For the corded bars and the button-hole stitch:

40

30

1

D.M.C Special crochet cotton

(Cordonnet special) D.M.C Flax lace thread

(Lin pour dentelles)

50

35—

, —J

(*) Use D.M.C Alsatian thread (Fil d' Alsace) 400 lor fixing the threads ot the tracing.

DOLLFUS-MIEG & Cie, Societe anonyme, Mulhouse-Belfort-Paris

manufacture and put on sale under the trade mark of

A BRODER

DMC

DMC

SOIEDE PERSE

I 40 metres

Iin ihh v miu; 4 Gfe MiiltousrMforlFaris

articles specially intended for embroidery, sewing, knitting, crochet, lace work and generally for all kinds of needlework in the following materials :

COTTON, LINEN AND SILK

These articles are supplied in all sizes in ecru, white, black and all colours.

They can be procured from all mercers, fancy repositories, art needlework depots, &c. ; but the variety of the D so great that it is impossible for even the best supplied houses to keep them all in stock.

As however customers of Dollfus-Mieg & C'% Societe anonyme, or their wholesale agents have every facility of quantity of goods, it is always possible to obtain the articles wanted through them.

D01LFCS-MIEC&C":

iMuIhouse-Belfort-Paris

M.C goods is procuring any

LIST OF THE DMC ARTICLES

Cottons for embroidery and tapestry: D.M.C Embroidery cottons (Cotons a broder). D.M.C

Pearl cottons (Cotons perles). D.M.C Special stranded cotton (Mouline special). Sewing cottons: D.M.C Alsatian sewing cotton (Fil dAlsace). D.M.C Alsa. Crochet cottons: D.M.C Alsatia. D.M.C Cordonnets. D.M.C Pearl cottons (Cotons perles).

D.M.C Crochet floche. Knitting cottons: D.M.C Alsatia. D.M.C Retors pour mercerie. Embroidery and festooning machine twist: D.M.C Alsatian twist (Retors dAlsace). D.M.C Embroidery cotton (Coton a broder). Cotton braids: D.M.C Cotton braid (Lacet, premiere qualite). D.M.C Superfine braid (Lacet superfin). Flax threads for embroidery and tapestry: D.M.C Floss flax (Lin floche). D.M.C Stranded flax thread (Lin mouline). Flax threads for knitting, crochet and lace work: D.M.C Flax thread for knitting and crochet (Lin a tricoter et a crocheter). D.M.C

Flax lace thread (Lin pour dentelles). Washing embroidery silk : D.M.C Persian silk (Soie de Perse).

D-M-C LIBRARY

In the endeavour to develop the taste for fancy needlework and to make the use of the numerous articles made specially for sewing and embroidery by the Societe anonyme Dollfus-Mieg & Cie better known, the Society has published a series of works which together form a complete library of information dealing with every known kind of needlework.

Each album is composed of a series of very varied designs with an explanatory text by the aid of which it will be found easy to carry out even the most complicated work.

Although these publications by their artistic value, the choice of the designs, and the attention applied to their execution surpass all that has ever been done in this line before, yet, they are sold at a price quite inferior to their real value. They could not have been produced under more favourable conditions, in consequence of the important editions and their intended aim.

All these publications are edited in French and German, and some in English (*). As the text however is but of secondary importance while the designs are the principal feature, all these works can be used to great advantage even in the countries where other languages are spoken than those in which they are edited.

Further on will be found a description of these publications which can be obtained of booksellers, mercers and at needlework depots or of the editor direct, Th. de Dillmont, Mulhouse (Alsace).

List of the publications of the D-M-C Library

* Encyclopedia of Needlework

A handsome volume of about 800 pages, illustrated by 1107 engravings and 13 coloured plates. English binding. Gilt top. Bound in-i6m° Price: 1/3

The Embroiderer's Alphabet

Album containing 82 coloured plates composed of alphabets, monograms and patterns for counted stitch embroideries, followed by 10 plates of monograms and festoons with tracings for white embroidery.

* Bound in-]6m° Price : 5d-

Bound in-8° Price: 10d

Albums for Cross-Stitch Embroidery

* ALBUM I :

In-40, 32 plates with 278 designs. Artistic cover Price: 1/3

ALBUM II : In-40, plates with 136 coloured designs, comprising several

alphabets. Artistic cover Price: 2/—

* ALBUM HI:

In-40, plates with 182 designs Price: 1/3

Le Macrame (Macrame)

An album in-40, °f 32 plates with explanatory text. Artistic cover Price : 2 /—

(*) The publications marked with an asterisk (*) and of which the title is underlined are edited in English.

Prices no longer in force

Motifs de Broderie copte (Motifs for Coptic Embroidery)

This work is divided into 3 parts, each of which is accompanied by an explanatory text. Artistic cover. In-40. Price : 2/— each.

Le Tricot (Knitting, Ist and IInd Series)

Two albums in-40, containing, the first 72, and the second 63 patterns for knitting. Artistic cover Price: 2/— each.

La Broderie sur Lacis

(Net-work embroidery, 1st and Ilnd Series)

Two albums in-40, composed of 20 plates each with explanatory text. Artistic cover Price: 1/3 each.

Alphabets et Monogrammes (Alphabets and Monograms)

An album in~4° (oblong shape), with gilt edges, composed of 60 plates with explanatory text Price: 2/—

* New Patterns in Old Style

Work divided into two parts, each of which is composed of 12 plates, accompanied by an explanatory text and figures. In-40 Price : 3/— each.

Recueil d'Ouvrages divers (Works of various kinds)

An album in-40. of 35 plates containing 242 engravings with explanatory text Price: 1/8

La Dentelle Renaissance (Point lace)

Containing 76 pages of text with explanatory figures, 10 plates of patterns with tracings on cambric for executing the designs reproduced on these plates. In-8° Price : 1/3

(*j The publications marked with an asterisk (*) and of which the title is under

* The Net Work

Containing 28 pages of text with explanatory figures and 20 plates with patterns for embroidery on net. Artistic cover. In-8" '. Price: 5d

Le Crochet (Crochet Work, Ist and IInd Series)

Two albums in-40, containing the first 64, and the second 57 patterns for crochet work and a detailed description of the patterns. Artistic cover Price: 2/— each.

* Crochet Work, IIIrd Series

An album in large octavo, containing 14 plates with a great variety of patterns for crochet work and an explanatory text with figures Price: 10d

La Broderie au Passe (Flat-stitch Embroidery)

An album in-40, °f 20 plates accompanied by tracings for reproducing the designs, with explanatory text. Polychrome cover Price : 2/—

Motifs pour Broderies

(Motifs for Embroideries, Ist and * II"d Series)

Two albums in-8", each containing 32 coloured plates, composed of grounds, borders, floral designs, &c, also a series of tracings to facilitate the reproducing and enlarging of the patterns Price : 1/— each.

* Motifs for Embroideries, IIIrd and IVth Series

Two albums in large octavo, each containing 20 coloured plates, composed of various designs in modern style, for embroidery on counted threads Price: 6d- each.

ined are edited in English.

* Teneriffe Lace Work

An album in-8", of 20 plates Containing a great variety of patterns for wheels, borders and lace and an explanatory text. Artistic cover Price: S1^-

Les Dentelles aux Fuseaux (Pillow Laces, Ist Series)

Octavo volume, containing 176 pages of text, with numerous ex- planatory illustrations, 8 plates, with patterns of laces, inser- tions and braids and 55 tracings for executing the different patterns described in the book Price : 2/2

* Cross Stitch . New Designs, Is* Series

An album in-8", containing 24 coloured plates, composed of grounds, borders and various subjects for cross-stitch embroi- deries Price : 21/2d

* Cross Stitch New Designs, IInd and IIIrd Series

Two albums in large octavo, each containing 20 coloured plates, composed of grounds, borders and various subjects for cross- stitch embroideries Price : 4d each.

* Marking Stitch, Ist Series

Album in-8° Containing 12 coloured plates composed of alphabets, monograms and patterns for counted stitch embroideries Price: ld-

* Hardanger Embroideries

Album in large octavo, containing 36 plates composed of a number of patterns for openwork embroidery on counted threads ; 20 pages of text with explanatory figures accompany the plates Price: 8d

Le Filet-Richelieu (French net-work)

An album in-40, of 30 plates with explanatory text. Artistic cover Price : 2/—

* Drawn thread work

An album in-8°, of 20 plates containing a great variety of patterns and an explanatory text. Artistic cover Price : 5d-

* Irish Crochet Lace

Album in large octavo, containing 50 pages of text with numerous explanatory figures and 7 plates of patterns for Irish crochet lace, to which are added tracings on linen for reproducing the patterns illustrated on the plates Price: 1/5

* Embroidery on Tulle, Ist Series

Album in large octavo, containing 16 plates printed in black and 8 plates in colours, with numerous patterns of laces, edgings, insertions and powderings, preceded by an explanatory text facilitating the execution of embroidery on tulle. Price : -/10

* Needle-made Laces, Ist Series

Album in large octavo, containing 15 plates comprising numerous designs for laces, as well as a series of patterns for their execution, the whole preceded by a text with explanatory figures Price : 11

* Motifs for Embroideries, Vth Series

Album in large octavo, containing 15 coloured plates with numerous models for embroidery. A text with explanatory figures facilitates the reproduction of the models and a series of tracings of the plates contained in the album completes this publication Price : -/7 1 /2

(*) The publications marked with an asterisk (#) and of which the title is underlined are edited in English.

Printed by the Societe anonyme Dollfus-Mieg & C"

Made in France

STERLING * FBANCINE CLAHr . NK9400 .D54d E Dillmont, Therese de/Needlt

stack laces

552