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NEW-LAID EGGS

WORKS BY MRS. DE SALIS.

' Those excellent cookery books that have made Mr?. De Salis
an authority in every kitchen that has any pretensions to high art.'

Scotsman.

CAKES AND CONFECTIONS A LA MODE.

Second Edition. Fcp. 8vo. is. 6d. boards.

DRESSED GAME AND POULTRY A LA MODE.

Second Edition. Fcp. 8vo. zs. 6d. boards.

DRESSED VEGETABLES A LA MODE, Third
Edition. Fcp. 8vo. is. 6d. boards.

DRINKS A LA MODE. Fcp. Svo. is. 6d. boards.

ENTREES A LA MODE. Seventh Edition. Fcp.
Svo. IS. 6d. boards.

FLORAL DECORATIONS : Suggestions and Descrip-
tions. IS. 6d. boards.

OYSTERS A LA MODE. Second Edition. Fcp.

Svo. ij. 6d. boards.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY A LA MODE. Third
Edition. Fcp. Svo. is. 6d. boards.

SAVOURIES A LA MODE. Twelfth Edition.
Revised and Enlarged. Fcp. Svo. rs. 6d. boards.

SOUPS AND DRESSED FISH A LA MODE.

Fourth Edition. Fcp. Svo. ts. 6d. boards.

SWEETS AND SUPPER DISHES A LA MODE.

Fourth Edition. Fcp. Svo. i^. 6d. boards.

TEMPTING DISHES FOR SMALL INCOMES.

Third Edition. Fcp. Svo. is. 6d. boards.

WRINKLES AND NOTIONS FOR EVERY
HOUSEHOLD. Third Edition. Crown Svo. u. 6d. cloth.

London : LONGMANS. GREEN, & CO,

NEW-LAID EGGS

HINTS FOB AMATEUR POULTRY -REARERS

BY

MES DE SALIS

Authoress of 'Savouries a la Mode' 'Entrees a la Mode'

' Soups and Dressed Fish a la Mode ' ' Oysters a la Mode ' ' Sweets

la Mode' 'Vegetables a la Mode' 'Dressed Game and Poultry a la Mcde '

•Cakes and Confections a la Mode' 'Puddings and Pastry a la Mode'

'Drinks a la Mode' 'Wrinkles and Notions for the Household'

'Floral Decorations a la Mode' and ' Tempting Dishes'

"CQUl ^ou take eggs for moneie ?

Winter's Tale, Act 1, Se. 2

LONDON
LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.

AND NEW YORK : 15 EAST 16"i STREET

1892

All rights reserved

^ 3 4.-S"

PKIXITED BY

SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., MIW-STREET SQUARE

LONDON

PEEFACE

Haviivg been very successful in egg-production and
poultry-rearing, which have been pursued entirely for
pleasure, I think, perhaps, the little volume which I have
compiled might be found useful to amateurs. I have
studied all the best authorities on poultry-keeping, and
listened to everyone's advice who knew anything about
fowls, and have deduced from these authorities the systems
I have found to answer best.

Respecting poultry diseases I simply quote the ex-
periences of others, and name the remedies I should use
myself, as, I am thankful to say, I have not had much
practical knowledge of them, as my fowls have hardly ever
ailed, with the exception now and then of bronchial attacks
or catarrh with old birds, and gapes with chicks, and the
latter very rarely. This satisfactory Result I attribute to
personal care, always mixing their food and feeding them
myself, cleaning out their roosts and supervising the
raking over and cleaning of their runs, keeping them
warm and yet giving plenty of ventilation without
draughts ; in cold weather always shutting them in
their houses at night, so that they should not be out in
the runs in the very early morning till they have had their
warm food; and in frosty weather the water-pans and

VI NEW-LAID EGGS

fountains should be emptied in the afternoon, as frozen
water is most injurious. In winter, when others have
been lamenting their scarcity of eggs, I have always
had plenty to supply the house and to give away.

I feel sure that if gentlewomen, young or old, were to
look after their fowls themselves — not trust entirely to
servants or paid dependents — and kept good laying breeds,
crosses or otherwise, there would be no cry of, * My fowls
are not attempting to lay.'

Many of my quotations are those of well-known
poultry-rearers, among them Mr. Cooke and others, and
from ' Farm and Home,' ' Farm, Field, and Fireside,' from
which I have received most valuable advice and hints, and
I strongly recommend all amateur poultry-keepers to take
in these papers weekly.

H. A. DE SALIS.

NEW-LAID EGGS

Poultpy-Raising

The conditions of success in poultry-raising are something
more than the possession of numerous fowls of strong
constitutions. During a portion of the year at least the}^
must be provided with warm, dry, well-lighted quarters,
and regularly supplied with food and water. If fowls can
be kept healthy the secret of success has been discovered.
Two things are most necessary — abundance of fresh air
U'ithout draughts, and perfect dryness. A damp house is an
unhealthy house. One of the greatest objections to con-
fining a lot of fowls in a small house is the difficulty of
keeping the house dry.

Birds require protection from the blazing rays of the
sun as much as from rain, snow, and cold winds. When
poultry are kept upon a moor or some large open piece of
ground where hedges, banks, and walls are only con-
spicuous by their absence, sheds might be made in the
following way : Procure a hurdle of any Mnd, then weave
gorse, common bracken, or good stiff straw into the
hurdle and tie firmly down with cord or wire ; then place
the hurdle against a hedge, bank, or wall some 3 or
4 ft. high and fasten firmly, and to hold the outer side
use two short props of 2 ft. or 2 ft. 6 in., and drive
them into the ground ; then the front of the hurdle can
be fastened firmly on to them and a capital covering is
secured. It is advisable to close both ends with smaller
hurdles.

2 NEW-LAID EGGS

Persons residing on their own freeholds might make
excellent shelters by planting quick-growing shrubs, which,
besides being thus useful, are pleasing to the eye.

Poultry Houses and Runs

The first point to be regarded is the giving of sufficient
air-space for the number of fowls to be kept. Overcrowding
is a great mistake. Very large houses are not recommended,
as there is always during the winter season a great bank
of cold air the fowls cannot withstand, and which starves
them the whole night long. Ventilation is another point,
as it is absolutely necessary, and is essential to health.
Unless a poultry house be well and properly ventilated
fowls cannot be kept healthy for any length of time ; for
constantly breathing impure and tainted air will sooner or
later cause sickness as surely with fowls as with human
beings. A little pure air goes a good way with a hen.
A constant stream of it is not needed, or a draught through
the house, nor are ventilators required. The best way to
ventilate is to open the doors and windows during the day,
and when night comes, or cold weather, close them up
tightly. A house 6 ft. square will provide ample ac-
commodation for a dozen large fowls or sixteen medium-
sized ones. The cheapest material for a fowl house is wood ;
three-quarter inch matching answ^ers the purpose, inch
boarding if the floors be made of wood.

The roof should project at least 3 in. all round, and be
covered with roofing felt, and when finished should be well
tarred all over and a little rough sand sprinkled over it.
It will be found very durable. The tarring process should
be repeated once a year, and will preserve it and make it
last for years, or corrugated iron can be used also for
roofing.

Another house can be arranged for two broods, the
dimensions 20 ft. long, 6 ft. wide, and 7^ ft. high. The lower
end of the roof is 2|-ft. from the ground. The Louse
should face the south and the interior painted throughout

POULTRY HOUSES AND RUNS B

with the impenetrable paint. Once a month the paint
should be washed with carbolic soapsuds, to keep it free
from insects. There should be a passage with a room on
each side, and each room lighted by a window 28 by 24 in.,
3 ft. from the ground. The roosts should be even with the
windows, and the drop boards 8 in. below. The nests are
below the drop boards, and can be easily reached from the
passage by simply turning a wooden button and letting
down a door to extend the whole length of the partition.
The passage should be 3 ft. wide and 6 ft. long, and be fitted
with two small ventilators, one above the door and the other
at the opposite end of the hall. The partitions that enclose
the hall ought to extend almost as high as the door, and
are so constructed that they can be readily removed.
This plan is very simple, and the house is easily con-
structed, and combines all the conveniences ^^ossible in
so small a space. From either house chickens should be
excluded ; otherwise they soon overcrowd the limited space,
when the result is that there is an end to the healthful st ate
of the inmates, and losses quickly take the place of profits.

Mann, of Belle Vue Farm, has a capital book of poultry
illustrations and poultry appliances.

For runs a transparent wire-wove roofing is very useful ;
it gives a soft, subdued light and protects the fowls from
the sun ; it is durable, waterproof, and unbreakable.

There should be 1 ft. of perch room at least to every
bird, unless the breed is very small. The perches should
be set at the same level, about 2 ft. from the floor, and about
the same distance from each other. They should be made
of larch poles, about 4 in. in diameter, cut in two and
nailed the flat side downwards. The bark is best left on,
as it affords sure footing to the fowls.

Perches should never be fixtures ; they should be so
arranged that they drop into a socket, so that they can
be lifted up at any time and scraped and washed. Perches
should always be kept low, as then the birds do not hurt
themselves when they fly down, or when an egg is dropped
underneath it seldom breaks. Another thing is, when

B ^

4 KEW-LAID EGGS

tliey are kept low all tlie foul air and smell rises to the top
of the house.

Perches should be 2^ in. wide, and the sharp edges
bevelled off, as their being made in this way protects the
young birds from getting crooked breast-bones.

The inside walls should be well coated with fresh
slacked lime.

The foundations for the floor should be dug out a foot
deep, filled in with rough bricks, and covered with
cement. Wooden floors are bad, as they soon become foul.
Another flooring that is very good is, after digging out a
foot deep fill in for two-thirds this space with rubble and
coarse gravel, which should be well beaten down, and
complete the floor with sand. Where sand is not available,
a compost made of cinder ashes, fine gravel, quick lime,
and water should be spread over the rubble, and
sufficiently thick to rise three inches above the outside
ground. Many think that the best way to make the floor
is of hard concrete, and also a ground floor composed of
two parts hot lime and a third part of fine cinder ash,
allowed to set hard, is good.

Underneath each perch a tray or board should be
arranged to receive the night droppings, placing a layer
of sand or ashes on the board, and removing daily, or
three times a week.

For the runs, Mr. Cook's advice is best, and I will
quote what he says.

' Fowls kept in runs should have the earth constantly
changed, which is best done after wet weather, as the top
scum may then be removed in cakes. The run should
always be dug over once a week, as the loose earth occupies
the fowls in scratching.'

Runs are much better covered in, so as to provide shade
in summer and shelter from the wet and wind in winter. A
perch should be placed in the covered run, as fowls are
fond of sitting on a perch to plume themselves.

The door of the roosting house should, if possible, be
left open for a few hours daily to air it, and I find it a

POULTEY HOUSES AND RUNS 5

good plan to have an inner wire door, so as to enable the
airing of the house and yet prevent the fowls getting out.

In every run there should be a dust bath, which should
consist of three parts of sand and sifted ashes, mixed
with a little insect powder and some disinfectant powder.
The addition of flour of sulphur has the effect of brightening
the plumage.

Some poultry-keepers heat their fowl houses in winter,
but it generally does more harm than good, as I consider
it makes the birds delicate, as on cold mornings, coming
out of their warm houses into the cold air and standing
about, they catch cold, which often ends in roup. In
summer they should be kept cool by giving as much ventila-
tion as possible, taking care that it is not too draughty.
In winter the roosting-place should be entirely free from
draughts, and yet have sufficient ventilation to keep the
air pure and sweet. The heat from the fowls' bodies is
sufficient to keep the house at a proper temperature, so
long as the accommodation is not in excess of what is re-
quired by the inmates.

Keep the temperature of the fowls' bodies up by proper
feeding; then the roost will not require heating artificially.

I have been told old newspapers or brown wrapping-
paper can be used for keeping the poultry house warm by
making some good paste, using equal parts of rye and
wheat flour, and putting it on the walls freely ; then lay
on the paper ; when dry lay on another layer, and then
daub it all over with a coating of paste ; and that it
will last a winter, and then in the warm weather it can
be removed, to prevent the harbouring of vermin ; after
removing, smear the walls with kerosene.

Cleanliness

Is an all-important factor in the management of fowl houses,
and experience teaches us that fowls are injuriously affected
by the emanations from filthy quarters, and all houses
and runs should be kept scrupulously clean, all droppings

6 NEW-LAID EGG-S

removed, and all vermin destroyed. The removal of all
filth and dirt is the first thing, for though the house may
be cleaned daily by brushing out the floor and removing
the droppings, it wants periodical cleaning and fumigating
besides. Carbolic powders should be strewn about the
floors, which will help to rid the old hens of vermin.
Personal oversight is necessary to secure satisfactory
rearing and keeping of fowls. A servant does not give
the same care and attention to the fowls' needs as does
their owner, because the former is interested in his pay,
whilst the latter is interested in his birds, and fowls amply
repay any extra trouble taken for their benefit.

Dry road dust and coal ashes are cheap and effectual
deodorisers. The floor should be dug up every week,
and in the course of three years should be renewed, and
this earth becomes a valuable addition to the garden.
Minute particles of animal matter are exhaled from the
lungs of the fowls, or thrown off by the pores of the skin,
and settle upon the walls, partitions, nests, and everywhere,
all of which must be destroyed.

Cleaning the Fowl House

First remove all filth and dirt ; a scraper, broom, and
shovel will be necessary ; every particle of droppings, every
bit of dust or ashes, every straw that is found in the nest
must be removed, and the interior carefully fumigated.
Whitewashing should be frequent.

Put a few pounds of sulphur into an iron pot, saturate
it with kerosene, and after driving out all the fowls a^Dply
a match to it and close all the windows and doors and
other apertures, and then go out yourself. In four or five
hours the fumes of sulphur will have destroyed vermin
and all germs of disease. Then get lime, pour hot water
over it and let it slake ; thin it with water to the proper
consistency ; stir in a handful of salt, a few ounces of
carbolic acid, and a little' glue or prepared size to prevent its
rubbing off, and put a sponge on the end of a stick and
proceed to whiten the walls, the ceiling and wood-work^

cleaninct the fowl house 7

the laying-boxes, the perches, and all the crevices at the
ends of them. Rub kerosene into all crevices where
whitewash cannot reach. This should be done on a bright
sunny day, so that the door of the fowl house might be
left open for it to get thoroughly dry.

This process should be gone through every spring and
autumn.

Carbolic acid, in the proportion of a fluid ounce to a
gallon of water, should constantly be distributed about the
house. There is nothing worse for fowls than a poultry house
reeking with filth, the floor covered with the excreta and
the walls ornamented with cobwebs and dust, and the air
full of the fumes of ammonia and decomposition.

Feeding Fowls

Fowls should always have a run and a scratch before
they are fed in the morning (except in the very cold
weather and snow).

When fowls do not run after their food greedily, always
stop feeding at once. Do not give them anything more till
the next meal.

Hens that have not begun to lay should have a little
poultry powder in their morning meal, as it will soon bring
them on to lay, and plenty of it should be given, as it is
as necessary for them as teeth to animals ; indeed, I give
it three times a week during the winter. If this is
neglected the appetite and plumage are affected as well as
their laying powers. When hens look like laying for weeks
and do not do so, and are very heavy, they should have their
grain buried, so that they have to scratch for all they can get.

Grit is a most important factor in chicken-feeding.
Chicks as soon as they are hatched should be supplied
with it. Flint grit is the best.

Salt is very essential for fowls and should be mixed with
their soft food in the same proportion as we use it ourselves.

All fowls should have plenty of green food all the year
round, such as cabbages, turnips, beets, &c., and apples.

8 NEW-LAID EGGS

The latter is especially good for fowls, and should be
chopped finely, so that the fowls can pick it up like grain.

It is a good plan to give them two or three times a
week a mess of green food, chopped nicely, and mixed
with almost dry meal and scraps of meat, a sprinkling of
salt water, a dash of pepper or pinch of ginger. It is a dish
fowls especially enjoy.

All vegetable tops or roots should be chopped, and
they should always be fresh and succulent, and never
allowed to wither.

In the winter it is a good thing to soften the corn by
boiling it for twenty minutes. Let it stand till it soaks
up the water, and give it to the fowls hot. Give them a
little of this, and finish up with a little hard corn ; also
in the winter I give them twice a week a heaped-up
teaspoonful of mustard mixed up in their food to ten fowls.
I myself find it a good plan to keep a bucket under the
scullery table, in which all table scraps, are thrown, cold
potatoes,bits of meat, &c. ; and in the hot weather, imme-
diately after the kitchen dinner, a large saucepan is put on
the fire filled with all the scraps, and then middlings added,
hot water poured on it and then simmered for two or three
hours, then the liquor poured off and all mixed up into
a good stiff paste, and leave it ready for the morning
meal, mixing in grit and poultry powder when necessary.
In the winter time it should be warmed up in the early
morning, so that the fowls have a hot feed.

It is most important the male bird should be looked
after, as often he will call his hens round him and not
touch the food himself, and the result is unfertile eggs.
When this is the case, Mr. Cook advises that a small
trough should be erected where the cock can reach best,
and not the hens. The trough should be small, just large
enough for him to peck out of without injuring his
comb, and made to stand firm. It can be placed on the top
of a thick bit of wood. It should not be deeper than
two inches, and three inches long, and the same width,
and made in the shape of a pig's trough.

FEEDING FOWLS ' 9

Egg-shells broken up very small, sand and small gravel,
or ordinary road scrapings, are mucli liked by poultry, and
should be mixed with their food.

Maize I never give except in the winter, and then only
in small quantities, as it makes too much fat and tends
to give them liver disease.

Wheat is the best grain to give, but it is necessary they
should have variety, and I find dari, French buckwheat,
barley, and a little wheat is a good mixture.

Good oats should be given as a change. Hempseed is
good in the breeding and moulting seasons, and especially
good for the male bird, as there will be then very little
chance of unfertile eggs, and it is good for bringing young
chickens into condition.

Fish is good for fowls, given moderately. Dandelions
and stinging-nettles are valuable herbs for the poultry yard.

Put the latter into a saucepan, and pour boiling water
over them, and cover them over. These mixed with their
morning meal, with a little salt, are very cooling to their
blood. Dandelion leaves can be cut into small pieces and
given raw.

Watercress is also beueficial to them. In the winter,
when cabbages and green food are scarce, it is a good plan
to have boxes in which rape, mustard, and maize seeds are
sown, as they grow very quickly.

It is wonderful what a difference warm food will make
in the supply of eggs during the cold weather.

Meat and scraps of bread and potato peelings from the
house should be mixed up in middlings for the morning
meal.

To keep the combs a good colour give a little meat and
poultry powder mixed in the food.

Regularity in Feeding Poultry

Mr. F. Leach, of Ansonia, who is a rearer of fine poultry,
believes in feeding most regularly. He is unable to be at
home at night before the chickens go to roost, and in order

10 NEW-LAID EGGS

that they may be fed without fail he has rigged up an
apparatus. ' The quantity of grain is placed in a tin can
which is suspended from a string and weighted. An alarm
clock in the outer coop releases the string at a certain
hour, when the can turns upside down and throws out
the corn. There are four coops, and each has its can, all
working at the same time.' The best times are early
morning and half an hour before roosting in the long days.
In the winter two meals are sufficient, as they go to roost
so early.

Care of Sitters

When the sitting hen has been placed upon the eggs
she should be disturbed as little as possible. She should
have food and water within easy reach every morning, so
that there should be no unnecessary cooling of the eggs.
Her food should consist largely of good sound corn, as this
contains a large amount of carbon with which to keep up
the animal heat. Grit in some form should be supplied and
mixed in with it. About once a week (the last time a day
or two before hatching) she should be dusted with some
good inject destroyer. Shake it over her back and she
will bristle up, opening her feathers and allowing it to
go through the plumage down to the skin.

Tobacco dust is most excellent.

Hatching

Hens should be chosen in preference to pullets for
hatching purposes, as they are more careful, and will allow
themselves to be touched, whereas pullets are rather inclined
to be wild.

The eggs set should be as fresh as possible, as they
hatch out much stronger and quicker than those which have
been kept some time.

It is a mistake to set a hen on too many eggs. In the
winter nine is sufficient for a good-sized hen, and thirteen
in the spring and summer.

HATCHING 11

It is said, Leave a lien alone while she is hatching,
which is very good advice for the inexperienced. But
thousands of chicks' lives have been saved by timely
help.

If during incubation an egg should get cracked, a piece
of thin paper should be pasted over the crack, and it will
probably hatch out with the others. Twice I have found
eggs cracked and resorted to this plan, and the chicks
arrived safe and strong. Often one or two of the eggs are
backward in hatching; then the shell should be cracked
gently all round at the large end and some pieces of the
shell carefully picked off, the position of the beak of the
chick be ascertained, and a small aperture made, so as to
give the chick relief; it should then be replaced under the
hen. It is a great mistake to interfere too early with the
eggs, as hundreds are lost through over-anxiety to hurry
the young ones into the world.

If the chicks are slow in hatching — that is, some hatch-
ing much sooner than the others — I generally take those
hatched away from the hen, and place them in a box lined
with wadding, and wrap them in flannel. Place them near
the fire till the others are ready, and then they are placed
back with the hen.

When a hen is off her nest the eggs should be
examined, and should one be broken it must be removed,
and any that may be in the least soiled wiped with a cloth
dipped in tepid water.

The nest must not be allowed to dry up.

Warm, moist weather is best for hatching purposes,
and the nest will then retain the proper degree of moisture ;
but should the weather be very hot and dry, a small quan-
tity of warm water may be sprinkled on the eggs during
the absence of the hen, care being taken it is not too hot.

Sitting hens, as far as practicable, should be isolated
from each other. Yermin must be kept down. Sprinkle
sulphur in the nest just before hatching comes off.

After the chickens are hatched they must be kept in a
warm place. Dry mould is the best absorbent for the floor

12 NEW-LAID EGGS

of tlie coops, whilst in cold weatlier dry ashes with a layer
of straw is useful.

The water must be attended to. It must be perfectly
fresh and clean and changed often (I give mine always
filtered water). Keep the chicks dry and warm; cold is
not so difficult to contend with as damp.

After the chickens are hatched the hen should have a good
meal, otherwise she would eat the chicks' food. As young
chickens can do no harm, it is a good plan to let them
have the run of the garden in search of worms and insects.

Early Hatching

The difficulty of early hatching where incubators are
not used is to find broody hens. The birds that sit in
March are generally one-year-old pullets, and if two-year-
old hens become broody, these seldom begin to lay till the
turn of the year, and often March is here before the first
egg makes its appearance.

But when a hen about fifteen months old hatches a
brood late in the summer, she will probably moult during
the business, and the extra feeding during the time she runs
with her brood will bring her into laying condition, so that
eggs will be plentiful in the autumn and winter, and she
will be ready to sit early in the spring.

Rearing Young Fowls

The cockerels should be separated from the pullets as
soon as they begin running after the pullets. They will
not fight among themselves if they are not allowed to see
the pullets, and they develop much more quickly and
become finer birds when separated from the pullets.

To Feed Young Chickens

The best food for chicks is hard-boiled eggs chopped
up fine, and mixed with groats or coarse oatmeal, upon
which they should be kept for the first four days, after

TO FEED YOUNG CHICKENS 13

wMcli time they may be given biscuit meal soaked in hot
water, but given dry, and dry groats. A little finely chopped
meat is a great help to them, and brings them on wonder-
fully. Until they are a fortnight old they should be fed
every hour. When a fortnight old every two hours will
do, and after they are a month old every four hours.

Barley, maize meal, and buckwheat meal are good for
them, but I consider they thrive best on biscuit meal
alternately with canary seed. I also give them bone-meal
mixed with their food once a day, after they are a fort-
night old, and continue this till they are six weeks old.
When they are three weeks old, their food may be varied
by giving once a day some dog biscuit soaked, but given
dry. Alternately with this give boiled rice. This should
be given separately and sparingly. The hen should always
be fed with grain before feeding the chicks, or she will
eat the food intended for them. When the hen is a long
time in hatching, the first hatched require feeding before
the others are hatched.

Care of Chickens

When chickens are fed and cared for to keep them no
more than at a standstill the food given is actually thrown
away. It is the most wasteful and extravagant method of
feeding possible. There will be no return for investment.

Whenever the young chicks look a little drooping,
catch them at once and examine under the wings. Blow
the fluff away very quickly, as the vermin are so very sharp
in warm weather. If there be any vermin, dust them with
insect powder. If they have no vermin look into the
mouth and see if that be clear. Should there be any white
spots, isolate the birds and uiop the throat well with a
feather dipped in roup lotion, which will soon remove all
the white spots, after which use roup powders. Always
boil the water, or filter it, before giving it to young chicks,
changing it several times daily, and give roup powder twice
a week mixed in their food. This keeps them in good
condition.

14 NEW-LAID EGGS

The food must not be given too soft or wet, as it pro-
duces diaiTlia3a — groats, dry rice, and stale breadcrumbs,
and very little water to drink if affected. When they ai^e
a fortnight old they may have French buckwheat, dari,
wheat, and barley.

Chickens under three weeks old should be fed as often
as they will eat greedily.

Use poultry powder in their food after three weeks old,
and a little meat should be given, and plenty of grit.
Bone-meal for young chickens mixed in the meal is espe-
cially good for them, particularly so when kept in a closed-
in run.

When young chicks show symptoms of sickness by
looking rough in feather, hanging their wings, and moping
by themselves with their eyes partly closed, their diet
should be changed. A little boiled rice should be given
two or three times a week. Groats are the best dry food.
A little wheat may be given, and a little French buck-
wheat, but neither English nor German, as the husks are
so injurious.

A little bone-meal and meat is good for them.

If the chick's crop is hard a few drops of salad oil
should be given, and if chicks appear very weak a little
cod liver oil and toasted bread soaked in tea has a wonder-
ful effect.

Feeding Coop for Chicks

The illustration given on p. 15, and recommended in
' Farm, Field, and Fireside,' shows a device which is de-
signed to give little chicks a chance to take their food
without being harassed and robbed by the older fowls. It
consists of a slatted box, four feet long, twenty inches wide,
and a foot high. The lower parts of the sides are covered
with boards and the remainder of the coop with laths. The
bottom is left open, the box resting on the ground. At
each end next to the ground is an opening three inches
wide and a little more in height, to admit the chicks. The
food is scattered inside on the ground through the slatted

FEEDING COOP FOR CHICKS 15

top. A coop of the dimensions named will be sufficient for
thirty chicks until they are four weeks old. It should

be removed to fresh ground every tw^o or three days.
These changes will help to keep the birds clean and there-
fore healthy.

Moulting

This is always a great strain on the fowl's system.
When they shed their feathers the body very easily takes
cold, as when the little quills of the old feathers have come
out of the skin they leave holes, so that the cold is able to
penetrate through the body, and where young quills
begin to grow at once a great strain is caused to the
system. The quills grow from 1 in. to 3 in. long before
the feathers begin to unfold out of them. The whole
of the nutriment of the feather is in the quill, and when
old birds shed their plumes quickly and their fresh ones
seem to come at once it tries them immensely. Fowls which
moult during October and November want especial care.
The comb shrinks to much below its usual size and becomes
very pale. Where fowls only shed a few feathers at a time,
and do not become featherless, they do not require quite so
much care.

When fowls are moulting they should have their soft
food as hot as they can eat it, and some of Cook's poultry
powder put into it every other day will help them to
get their new feathers more quickly. Birds as a rule get
much lighter in weight while they are undergoing a change

16 NEW-LAID EGGS

of feathers, especially when it is late in the season. A
bird which will weigh 6 lbs. when she begins to moult
will often only weigh 4 J lbs. when she has got all her new
feathers. Though fowls lose weight whilst they are shed-
ding their feathers, many of them become internally very
fat afterwards, and therefore require a tonic to help them,
or else they become lazy and inactive, as if in the middle
of winter, some not caring even about coming out of the
roost except just for one meal a day.

The time of the formation of the coat of feathers that
succeeds the downy covering of the newly-hatched chicks
and the moulting season of older fowls is a critical period,
and requires constant vigilance in supplying such food as
will give nutriment to shell and tissue, and to young
chicks a generous diet must be given from the time of
incubation till the wing and tail feathers get developed.

Care of Laying Fowls In Wintep

They require a good hot breakfast, and warm water
should be given them, and they should not be let out early in
the mornicg in the rime or snow, as it checks their laying.

Where possible it is best to let them out for a few
minutes to feed and then drive them back into the house.
Peat-moss litter should be put into the house, as it is warm
and dry to the fowls' feet. Fowls should not be allowed
to stand about on cold or wet or damp mornings. Cook
says it is a good plan if it is very cold at night to boil
the grain and give it them hot. The corn should be put
into water in a saucepan early in the day, so that it stands
and soaks till a short time before it is required ; then it
should be stood by the fire to come gradually on to boil,
and then allowed to boil for not more than 10 to 15 minutes.
It should only just be covered with water.

Notes

February and March are very important months, as the
hens will be beginning to sit. And it is a well-known

NOTES 17

fact tliat cliickens hatched in these months will make
autumn and winter layers, and plenty of eggs will be
available in between November and December. As soon
as hens get broody they should be set. All coops, feeding
runs, and other appliances should be well cleaned and
lime washed before they are used.

July and August are the two months of the year
when poultry-keepers have the least to do. The eggs fall
off in number, and some of the hens ' go light ' — that
is, they lose flesh and yet eat greedily. The only way is
to pick them up, or else to notice if they walk stiffly.
This generally tells of either liver disease or broken eggs
congealed in the oviduct, for which there is no cure.
Hens often begin to shed their feathers in July, and if so
it would be a pity to kill them, as they become early winter
layers.

The stock cocks must be looked to this month. Mr.
Cook advises that if they get thin and beat the hens w^hen
they are feeding, it is a sign something is wrong — usually
consumption or liver disease — and they should be killed, as
they are totally unfit for breeding purposes. If two-
year-old cocks have a swelling under their feet or between
their toes, they should be killed ; they will not breed
early chickens for next year, as the eggs could not be de-
pended on till April or May. The chicks should be well
examined to see there is no vermin. These are to be
found round the stomach, under the wings, and at the root
of the tail ; they should be well dusted with insect powder.
Lay the chicken on its back, rub the powder well in, and
well dust it all over. Sometimes there are nits round the
head ; if so, mix a little warm lard and precipitate powder
to a paste, and rub in. The stock cocks should be
examined for vermin, which are often found round the tail,
and sometimes a nest of them will be found at the end of
the breast-bone.

18 NEW-LAID EGGS

Fowls in the Autumn

Houses should be limewaslied, and the roofs tarred.

If there is a weak place in the roof, a little tar should
be placed over, then a thick piece of brown paper pasted
over, and then another coat of tar, and scatter some dust
over it whilst it is wet. In a fortnight's time give it
another coat of tar.

The hen-house should be whitewashed, the old nests
cleaned and fumigated. The roosts should be brushed
over with kerosene, by which means all lice may be
destroyed. A little carbolic powder strewn about the
hen-house floors will help to keep the hens free from
vermin.

The cockerels should be separated from the pullets if
it can be conveniently done. It is a good plan to give the
old hens a hot meal for breakfast with a little sulphur
mixed with it — a dessertspoonful for ten or twelve hens.
This should only be given in the early autumn, and never
when the weather is wet or cold. A little common salt
should be given, but not much.

Breeds of Fowls

Anconas Indian Game

Andalusians La Fleche

Barn-door Fowls Langshans

Black Java , Leghorns

Brahmas | Malay

Cochins ; Minorcas

Coucous de Morleau Orpingtons

Crevecoeurs

Dominiques

Dorkings

Game Fowls

Guinea Fowls

Hamburghs

Houdans

Plymouth Rocks

Polish

Eedcaps

Scotch Gre3's

Spanish

Surrey and Sussex

Wyandottes

CEOSS-BEED FOWLS

19

Cross-Bred Fowls

Houdan Cochin
„ Minorca
,, Plymouth Eock
„ Leghorn
„ Spanish
5, Andalusian
,, Hamburgh
„ Dorking
,, Langshan
„ Wyandotte
„ Game

Minorca Plymouth
„ Brahma
„ Hamburgh
„ Langshan

Black-leg Brahma
Dorking
,, Plymouth

,, Minorca

„ Cochin

„ Hamburgh

Dorking Brahma

Game Hamburgh
5, Plymouth Bock

Game Dorking
Plymouth Rock Brahma
„ Dorking

Spanish Game

,, Brahma

,, Cochin

„ Legborn

„ Dorking
Langshan Brahma

„ Plymouth Rock
Cochin Dorking

„ Brahma
Hamburgh Plymouth Rock
„ Dorking

,, Cochin

Game Cochin
Andalusian Cochin
Crevecoeur Cochin
White Dorking

,, Cochin
Light Brahma
White-leg White Dorking
Surrey Fowls

Andalusians

These fowls are very similar in style and character to
the Minorcas. Mr. Wright asserts that they came
originally from Andalusia, in Spain, but a very great
breeder of these fowls testifies that the birds come from
Honduras. Their colour is slaty grey ; the male is very
upright in carriage, long-legged, legs free from feathers, and
thin toes ; the general appearance large, light, active, broad
at shoulders, tapering to the tail ; the neck long, carried

0 2

20 NEW-LAID EGGS

well back, with, flowing hackle ; back rather round and
slanting, the breast rounded and carried well forward, a
large and deep head, long beak, medium and single comb,
perfectly straight and upright and deeply serrated and
brilliant, very long wattles, flne and thin in texture ; the
face bare of feathers and free from white deaf ears,
medium smooth, flat, felting close to head and free from
wrinkles, pure white long wings carried tightly to the
body, the long back feathers coming well over the points.
Tail and sickles arched, carried well up, but not squirrel
fashion. The eyes bright orange or red. Colour a
deep slate blue, with a lacing of darker colour or even
black on each feather, is preferable ; legs dark leaden blue,
the breast a deep blue.

The cock's hackle, saddle, and sickle should be black
and deep purple, with a rich gloss. The hen's charac-
teristics are similar to the cock's, with the exception that
the comb falls over to one side.

These fowls are excellent layers of large white eggs
and do well in confinement ; the chicks feather quickly
and the pullets lay early. They cross well with the
Dorking or Houdan or Cochins. Andalusians are non-
sitters. They do not make good table birds, as their flesh
is not white.

Black Java Fowls

The Java is an admirable table fowl ; its skin a rich
gold, the flesh abundant, tender, juicy, and fine-flavoured.
It ranks high as a winter layer, as well as all through the
year. The eggs are of good size, many very large ; the shells
are tinted, some very brown. In hardiness both as chicks
and mature fowls they are almost unequalled. They are
very gentle. Their points are : comb single, evenly serrated
and upright, face red, medium-sized white deaf ears, dark
beak, plumage black with a green lustre, and legs a dark
yellow. They are neither non-sitters nor persistent sitters.
They require a great deal of green food.

BRAHIVLl, OR BRAHMAPOOTRA FOWL 21

Brahma, or Brahmapootra Fowl

This breed was formerly more popular than it is now.

There are two varieties of the Brahma, the dark and
light, both of which present the same external character-
istics, namely, tall massive frame, full square breasts, small
neat head surmounted by a pen or triple comb, large,
powerful thighs and legs and heavy feathery hocks,
small wings and tail, and long, well-arched neck covered
with abundant hackle.

The comb has three small ridges running side by side
with the centre, one rather higher than the other two, and
not more than half an inch in height. The tail of the
male is different from that of all other fowls except such as
are of the Asiatic type, and is composed of a bunch of short
feathers, with but a slight curve at the end, the whole
rising straight up from the body. The height should be
very nearly that of the head.

The legs are orange yellow in colour, and medium in
length.

Dark Brahmas combine the colours of silver- white aud
black, the latter predominating in the cock. The breast
and tail are of a brilliant black, though in a few instances
the former is mottled and white, and the leg-feathering is
usually of the same colour. The other parts of the body
may be termed black and silvery white. The markings
on a good dark Brahma hen are very pretty. The ground
colour of pullets is clear grey, and on each feather there is
a pencilling following the outline of the feather of black,
or a darker shade than the body colour. The hackle is
silvery white, sharply striped with black, or pencilled as en
the body, and the tail black, or black edged with grey.

Light Brahmas have in both sexes a silvery white
colour almost throughout the plumage. In the cocks the
head is never white. The neck hackle is striped with
black, the striping being more dense at the lower part of
the hackle ; the wing primaries are black edged with
white, the secondaries white on outside web and black on

22 NEW-LAID EGGS

part of inside web ; the tail is black, and the tail coverts
glossy black, the two upper ones laced with white ; the leg
feather is black and white mixed. The beak is yellow, with
or without a dark stripe; the deaf ears, comb, wattles,
face and eyes red in both Light and Dark Brahmas.

They are admirable for crossing to secure size and
stamina. They attain their full size early, and are
regarded as in their prime at eight or nine months. They
are good fowls to keep in confinement, as they are very
hardy. Their eggs are brown; they make good sitters
and mothers. They make capital table birds, and are very
meaty.

Cochins

The varieties of Cochins now bred are Buff, White,
Partridge, Cuckoo, and Black. The first-named varieties
are preferred. Cinnamon Cochins are seldom now bred.
There are many points which recommend them to poultry
breeders : they are winter layers. The Buff's are the oldest
of the varieties of Cochins. The beauty of these fowls con-
sists largely in the uniformity of the buff" colouring without
markings.

Cochin fowls are peculiarly tame, and allow themselves
to be handled and fondled without fear, and they are well
adapted to be kept in a state of confinement, for their
weight and the peculiar form of their wings prevent their
flying to any height, and therefore their roosting places
should be broad, and not more than about one or two
inches from the ground.

Buff Cochins

Good-bred Cochin cocks should be of one colour
throughout. It does not matter if they be of a dark or
light buff", as long as they are of one distinct colour. The
breast and under fluff are paler in colour, and have not
anv gloss on them. The neck hackles, back, saddle, and

BUFF COCHINS 23

shoulders should be of the same shade — the shoulders
perhaps a trifle darker, the tail a rich chestnut. Feathers
on the legs and toes should be long, and should grow to
the nails of the middle and outside toes, and ought to
be of the same colour as the under part of the body, and
free from white. Yellow legs, and four toes on each foot.
The fluff underneath should be very full, so as to meet
the leg feathers. The comb single and very erect and
evenly serrated ; beak a yellowish brown, the face and
ear-lobes red. The breast should be very broad. The
hens are much the same as the cocks, excepting that their
combs are smaller and their feathers lack the gloss that
is so noticeable in the male.

They lay very brown eggs, but rather small.

The Cochin is a hardy breed, and stands confinement
and cold well.

They are not good table birds unless they are crossed,
but they are first-rate layers. A pure Cochin is not a good
sitter, as their feathers are too long and stand out from
the body ; the eggs in consequence do not get the warmth
of the hen's body.

Partridge Cochins. — The cocks are termed ' Black Reds,'
from the fact of their bodies being black with red or
orange neck and rump hackles, the back a bright dee^D
red, and the wing coverts the same colour. Down the
centre of each of the feathers of the neck hackle is a
streak of black, which gives a pretty and variegated
appearance. The hens are handsomer in plumage
than the cocks ; they are uniformly marked or spangled all
over their feathers, grouse markings being clearly and
well defined, giving the hens, in the eyes of some fanciers,
a very beautiful appearance. In their economic properties
the Partridge Cochin does not differ much from the other
members of the same family. It is a much better winter
than summer layer. The eggs are rich in colour, but
very small as compared with the size of the fowl laying
them.

Cuckoo Cochins are of a pale slate colour, usually

24 KEW-LAID EGGS

known as ' speckled,' and are not so heavily feathered as
the other varieties.

The Coucou de Morleau

This is a French variety named after a French town
and the colour of the birds ; they are of the Cochin class, but
an improvement on the Cochin character, being better layers
and better table fowls.

Their skin and legs are white instead of yellow. They
are less heavily feathered, and are consequently better
sitters and mothers. They are cuckoo-coloured.

The Cpevecoeup Fowl

This fowl has entirely black plumage, according to
Mr. John Lemoine, the great authority on French poultry.
It can attain a very large size ; its chest is very open,
its legs strong and black and well separated.

The hens are of large size, and the cocks have a mag-
nificent structure and manner, and a full-tufted plumage,
entirely black with violet reflections. The cock is greenish
under the neck, and over the throat the feathers are long
and erected in a straight line, then falling elegantly back.
The beak is black, with high and very open nostrils, and
bears a strong tuft of fine and reversible feathers. Below
the beak it is ornamented with a thick cravat and a
pointing beard, and the comb has two pointed horns at the
top, and is wide at the base, separating above. The ears
are small, blue in colour, and are hidden under the beard.
The barb feathers are very small. The crowing of the Creve-
coeur cock has a peculiar sound, which differs from that of
every other fowl, and is at once recognisable. The hen
has a full plumage of a dull black ; the head is strong and
furnished with a very full crest, high, round, and well
developed. Beneath the beak it has also a cravat ; the
beard is very prominent, beak black ; and the nostrils
large and open. The feathers of the ears are small and
bluish white, while the beard feathers are small and the

THE CRJlVECCEUR FOWL 25

crest rudimentary. As the hen gets older the beard
feathers are often white, and this colour comes into the
crest.

These hens never sit, and are said to produce 120 eggs
yearly. The eggs are large and pure white, and weigh
about two and a half ounces each.

They are very quiet and amiable, and very sensitive to
cold and fogs, and especially prone to cold.

Crosses

Cochin Brahma. — A Brahma cock and a Cochin hen
make a splendid cross, producing very good winter layers.
They are apt to become broody often in the spring. The
chickens are hardy and may be hatched all through the
winter.

Cochin Dorliings make large, handsome birds, and are
good autumn and winter layers. They make first-rate
sitters and good mothers. They are very tiresome in
becoming broody often in the spring and summer.

Hamburgh Cochin. — Mr. Cook recommends crossing
a Hamburgh cock with Partridge or Buff Cochin hens. The
plumage is handsome ; they are enormous layers.

Game Cochin. — A good game cock should run with
Cochin hens. They lay rich small eggs, and are very hardy.

Anclaliisian Cochins are hardy and good layers.

Crevecoeur Cochin is also a satisfactory cross.

White DorJving — WJiite Cochin. — Cross a Cochin cock
with Dorking hens. They make good table fowls ; their
flesh is white and juicy. They are very hardy, but not first-
rate layers. They make excellent sitters and mothers.

Dominiques

Are the oldest of the American breeds, and resemble
the Cuckoo Dorking, having four toes, a rose comb, and
bright yellow legs. They are very hardy, good table birds,
and first-rate layers.

26 NEW-LAID EGGS

Dopkings

A purely Eiiglish breed, and tlie best table birds there

are.

They are divided into four distinct breeds — one pure
white, with a rose comb and five toes on each foot ;
another the Coloured Dorking, another the Silver Grey,
and the fourth the Cuckoo.

They all resemble each other in shape and have short
white legs with five toes on each foot.

The Coloured Dorkings are very large birds. The cock's
breast and tail should be black, the hackle and saddle
feathers striped grey and black, the upper and lower part
of the wings greyish white, and the middle bar black.

The hen's breast should be of a reddish-brown tipped
with black, and the feathers on the top part of the back
showing a light brown stripe in the centre.

The Silver Grey is a ' much smaller variety. The cock
has a purely black breast with a silvery white hackle and
saddle. The hen's back should be of a delicate pale grey,
the breast a light brown colour, and the hackles striped
black and white.

Cuckoo Dorkings are rather small, with cuckoo
marking. Their feathers are a greyish white tipped with
slate colour at the end, and resemble those of the Plymouth
Rock. They lay very well in summer, but very scantily
in winter. Their eggs are very round and white, and
nearly the same size at both ends. The hens are first-rate
sitters and most affectionate, careful mothers. Dorkings
are not so hardy as many other breeds. They do best on
chalky or gravelly soil, and are the best and most valued
of all table poultry, having white legs, white flesh, and
plump, full breasts.

Game Fowls

There are several varieties of these birds. They should
be of medium size. The cocks should rarely reach six

GAME FOWLS 27

pounds in weiglit, and under four pounds for the liens. They
require plenty of liberty.

The carriage of game fowls should be bold, with the feet
firmly planted on the ground. The general appearance of
the bird should be firm and hard, the feathers strong and
lying close to the body.

The plumage should be firm, hard, and glossy. Cock's
tail well arched, and the hen's should form a fan. The
game cock's legs should be fleshy and strong, the neck
long and arched, and the head long, thin, and graceful,
with well-curved, strong, stout beak ; the eye large, full,
and very brilliant ; the comb single, small, thin, and very
erect ; the spur dense and sharp.

The cocks are generally 'dubbed' when the birds are
about four or five months old.

The flesh of game fowls is very white and most delicate
in flavour.

Game fowls will lay and breed for several years without
intermission. The hens are wonderful sitters and mothers ;
they lay smallish brown eggs of a most delicious flavour.

They are divided into the following varieties : black
reds, brown reds, duck wing poll, pure white, pure black,
brassy- winged, ginger red duns, hennies, and tassels.

Black Beds. — The cocks are a rich orange red on the
hackle and saddle, shading lighter at the tips, with no
stripe or black markings in their feathers, which should be as
crisp and scant as possible. The breast and tail and nether
parts of the body should be black, the upper part of the
wing a deep red with black edging, the centre part black,
and the end an orange brown. Face and eye red, legs
long, round, and yellow-coloured.

The hen's back and wings should be partridge-marked,
and the under part of the body lighter. The hackles are
striped a pale gold colour or black, the breast a pale ashy
salmon.

Brown Beds. — The breast of the cocks is mottled brown,
the feathers being laced with gold, the hackle and saddle
bright gold striped with black ; wing feathers are dark, and

28 NEW-LAID EGGS

the back and shoulders dark red, legs olive-coloured, face
purple, and eye dark brown. The hens should be olive-
black, except the hackle, which should be gold striped
with black, and have a laced breast like the cock's.

Buckwing. — The cocks have a straw-coloured breast,
neck, and saddle, deepening to maroon red. The wing
feathers light, with a steel blue bar across the wing. The
outer flight feathers are wliite ; the hen's resemble Black
Eed in colour, with a silvery ground for the crown.

Piles ^ or white-breasted reds, the points of which are, in
the cock, body colour white, neck and saddle hackle
feathers and secondaries a golden chestnut, back and wing-
bow dark claret. Hens, body colour creamy white,
breast salmon brown, hackle white, clear golden stripe,
legs in both sexes yellow or sallow, carriage upstanding
and smart.

Guinea Fowls

Mr. Stephen Beale says Guinea Fowls are not nearly so
much kept as they should be, as they are very profitable.
They run in pairs, and prefer to seek their own food as
long as they can find a supply for themselves. They are
very valuable on farms where they have a wide range, as
they destroy a large number of insects and do not scratch
up seeds. They also consume grass- and young seeds, as
well as the seeds of undesirable weeds and grasses.

An article in ' The Country Gentleman ' says that it is
usual for the Guinea Fowl to lay in the nearest hedge-
bottom or among a group of nettles. The nest is soon
found out by observing when the cock is alone, and
watching to see from what direction the hen returns.
She always does her best to hide her eggs by picking
fresh grass and laying it upon them, which lie on the
ground and not on any regular nest. She begins to lay
about the end of April, and will generally produce
altogether about a hundred eggs. If she shows signs of
wanting to sit, this must not be allowed, and she will
soon begin to lay again. Eggs should not be set any later

GUINEA FOWLS 29

than the second week in June, as they take a month to
hatch ; and though the chicks are easily raised in June
and July, they will, if hatched later, probably succumb to
the firsfc cold.

When young, they require chopped eggs ; and if in-
sects can be supplied to them so much the better. The
proper number for a setting is sixteen. Each hen should
provide three settings. The eggs are very rich.

Guinea Fowls are of a slate colour, and each feather is
covered with small white spots. Mr. Cook recommends
everyone who keeps poultry to keep these birds, as
thev are first-rate to keep fowl-stealers away. Should
a stranger pass within a hundred yards of them, they will
give an alarm at once, crying out at the top of their voices.

In the male the wattles are of a purplish red, and in
the female they are red without any mixture of blue, and
are of a smaller size.

The eggs of the Guinea Fowl are small and are of a
pale yellowish-red colour, dotted with small dark spots,
and are very delicate eating.

Hamburghs

Hamburghs are divided into three varieties : Black,
Spangled, and Pencilled.

The Blade Hamburgh is the largest of the many varieties
of the Hamburgh family. It is by no means a large fowl,
though it makes an excellent table bird. Its feathers lie
peculiarly close and tight about its body. It has no
deceptive fluffiness and plenty of breast meat. It is
pheasantlike in shape. The plumage is black, lying on a
brilliant metallic green, very lustrous in the sunlight.
Comb, face, and wattles a deep rich red. Eyes large, full,
and red, ear lobes pure white, round and smooth. Back
and breast broad, legs dark blue. Cock's tail ample and
flowing.

For the production of eggs the Black Hamburghs can
scarcely be beaten. Their eggs are small.

30 NEW-LAID EGGS

Black Hamburghs are supposed to be non-sitters, and
never to become broody, but this is not absolutely tbe
case, for a large pro]3ortion of them become more or less
affected with broodiness some time during the year, and
not a few will, if allowed, sit steadily and mother care-
fully.

Their tendency to broodiness may soon be checked,
and they may be made soon to lay again. They are said
to be the result from a cross with Spanish.

Spangled Hamhurghs are classified under the sub-
varieties of Golden-Spangled and Silver-Spangled, and
are most beautifully marked. The colour of the Golden-
Spangled is a deep rich bay, the cock's tail being pure
black, the breast marked with half-moonlike spangles at
the tops of the feathers. The hackle and saddle are sharply
striped with black, the wing has two bars formed by the
spangles of the coverts. The flights are also spangled.
Small white ear lobes, rose combs ending in a point
behind, blue legs and four claws.

Silver-Simngled. — The ground colour is a silvery white.
The cock should have a spangled breast and wings striped
black and white, the hackles and tail white, the ends of
the feathers mixed with diamond-like spangles. The hens
should be spangled on breast, back, saddle, and thighs, the
neck hackles striped black and white, the long wing
feathers and tail very white with black spots on the ends.
In other respects they are like the gold-spangled variety.

Gold-Pencilled Hamburghs resemble the spangled
varieties. The cocks are of a rich bay colouring, with the
exception of the tail, which is black edged with bay ; the
feathers between the end of the wings and thighs and some
of the wing feathers are evenly pencilled with black.

The hens are of a bay ground colour, pencilled by a
quantity of even metallic black bars across the feathers,
continued from the base of the hackle, which should be quite
free from marking to the end of the tail.

The Silver Pencil cocks are similar to the Golden, the
whole body being white and the tail laced with black. The

HAMBURnHS ' 31

hens are evenly pencilled nearly all over the body, the only
part not marked being the hackle, which is almost white.

Houdans

Houdans are the best known and most popular of the
French breeds ; they can hardly be called hardy fowls,
though they may become acclimatised and able to stand
our English temperature, but at present in their pure
state they are rather susceptible to cold and roup. In
dry, sheltered, and sunny spots they are one of the most
useful breeds that can be kept.

They are excellent layers, and in favourable positions
will produce almost as many eggs as some of our
reputed laying breeds. Their eggs are white, large, and
shapely, and they are first-class table birds. Their flesh
has the favourite tint and their bones are small. One
drawback to this breed is their liability to become crop-
bound. The passage from the crop to the gizzard being
very small, they require careful feeding. These fowls are
non-sitters.

Houdans are handsome birds. Both cocks and hens
are of the same colours, black feathers tipped with white,
and very regular markings ; the cock is darker on the back,
with greenish feathers in the tail. They have large crests
and muffling with feathers round the ears and under the
beak. The comb is an open leaf or antler-like in shape,
and the legs mottled black and white and short. This
is a fine breed to keep for crossing purposes, and they cross
well with Cochins, Minorcas, Plymouth Rocks, Leghorns,
Spanish, Andalusians, Hamburghs, Dorkings, Langshans,
Game, and Wyandottes, preferring the last-named.

Indian op Cornish Game

These fowls were very famous in Cornwall some thirty
years ago. It is, as the Americans call it, ' the fowl of

fowls.'

32 NEW-LAID EGGS

Their characteristics are, or should be, according to the
standard at the Indian Game Club : rather long and
thickish, skull broadish, neck medium, long and slightly
arched, horn colour or yellow striped with horn, beak well
curved and stout where set on head ; the face smooth and
fine in textare, the throat not as bare as in English game,
being dotted over with small feathers ; the comb (in
undubbed birds) irregular pea comb, the more regular
however the better, small, closely set on to head ; deaf ears,
small and very scanty wattles ; very slightly beetle-
browed eye, full and bold, of yellow colour, short hackle
just covering base of neck (twisted hackle objectionable) ;
very thick and compact in shape, broad at shoulders, the
shoulder butts showing prominently, but the bird must
not be hollow-backed ; the body should taper towards the
tail, the back flattish, breast wide, fair depth, and pro-
minent but well rounded, wings short and closely carried
to body, well rounded at point and closely tucked at ends,
carried rather high in front. Legs very strong and thick,
thighs round and stout, medium length, and well scaled
shank to give a gamey appearance. Toes long, straight,
and strong, and well apart, the back toe low and nearly
flat on the ground. Cock's tail medium length, with a few
short, narrow, secondary sickles and tail coverts. Tail
close, hard, glossy, and drooping. Hen's tail rather short,
carried low, well venetianed but close. It should be carried
somewhat higher than the cock's.

Plumage short, hard, and close ; upright, commanding,
and courageous carriage, back sloping downwards to the
tail.

Colours of Goch. — Breast, underbody, and thighs a
green glossy black ; neck hackle the same, with brown and
crimson shafts to feathers ; back, saddle, and saddle hackle
a mixture of rich green, glossy black, and brown crimson,
the former predominating; wing bow chestnut with me-
tallic green, glossy black wing bar. Tail green glossy
black.

Hen. — Ground colour chestnut brown with beautiful

INDIAN OR CORNISH GAME 33

lacing ; of medium size ; lacing of metallic green, glossy
black, looking as if raised or embossed.

Shank in both sexes yellow or orange, the deeper the
colour the better.

Face, deaf ears, wattles^ and comb a rich red.

La Fleche

This is a French variety and very lately known. Black in
plumage with a brilliant lustre, the ear lobes large and
white, the face bright red and free from feathers ; the
comb is in the shape of a pair of straight horns. The legs
are rather long and slaty blue, with four claws on each
foot. They lay large eggs, but are delicate and subject to
roup,

La/igshans

These are good all-round fowls, as they are very hardy
good table birds, and lay fine large brown eggs. There
are two kinds, black and white. The Langshan has
beautiful glossy plumage and something of the Black
Cochin make. It has black legs slightly feathered down
to the outside toe, not the middle one, which should
not have any. They are rather long-legged fowls and
carry themselves very erect. They have red ear lobes ;
their combs are evenly serrated and erect both in cock
and hen.

A Langshan and Plymouth Eock is a splendid cross.
They are splendid layers of large tinted eggs, and very
hardy ; they make most capital mothers, are very gentle
and timid, and make good table birds. The Langshan
chickens, when hatched, are black on the back and pale
yellow underneath.

White Langshans

It is a peculiarity of black fowls to produce now and
then a white chick or white ' sports.' White Langshana

D

34 NEW-LAID EGGS

have been so produced in China, and imported into this
country. Some have been produced in this way, and others
have been made by crossing with white breeds.

Some White Langshans are the produce of a cross with
the White Cochin, and others with the White Plymouth
Rock.

Leghorns

There are now several varieties of the Leghorn — the
White, Brown, the Cuckoo or Dominique Leghorn, Red
Leghorn, Black Leghorn, Buff Leghorn, Duckwing Game
Leghorn, Mottled Leghorn — but the Brown, White,
Black, and Cuckoo are most generally known.

Brown Leghorns. — The cock's comb should be fine in tex-
ture, large, single, perfectly straight and erect, with five even
deep serrations, extending well over the back of the neck,
free from excrescences and wrinkles, and of a brilliant
red ; wattles long, thin, and fine in texture. Face fine in
texture and free from wrinkles ; large ear lobes rather
pendant, solid, white, and free from folds, and closely fitting
to the head. Neck long, with deep rich bay hackle
pencilled with a fine and intensely black stripe down the
centre, ending in a sharp point, with dark under colour, as
white is a fatal defect. The neck should be carried upright.

The general appearance is light and active, large at the
shoulders and tapering towards the tail. Beak and toe-
nails yellow, eye red, legs a brilliant yellow.

Head and hackle rich orange red striped with black,
crimson red at the front of the hackle below the wattles.
Back and shoulder coverts deep crimson, red, or maroon.
Wing coverts steel blue with green reflections forming a
broad bar across the wing. Primaries black edged with
brown ; secondaries, part of outer web forming ' wing bay,'
deep bay colour ; remaining feathers, forming ' wing butt,'
black. Saddle a rich orange red striped with black.
Breast and under parts glossy black free from brown or
white splashes. Tail black flossed with green. Tail
coverts black edged with brown.

LEGHORNS 35

The hens should have a pure salmon breast, rich
golden hackle with a broad black stripe, pencilled black
wings free from a tinge of red ; fine solid white ear lobes,
and combs that are rather above the medium size and fall
well over on one side.

Newly hatched Leghorn chicks should be a sandy
brown when they come from the shell, a dash or two of
darker brown being observable here and there.

They should have neither black nor white in their
plumage.

Leghorns are hardy birds and first-rate layers. They
are rather small and not first-rate table birds. Mr.
Wright says of them that ' they are as layers the best
we have ever met with in moderate confinement,' and
that ' a more pleasing style of bird could not possibly be.
They lay white eggs, very rich in flavour, and are non-
sitters.'

White Leghorns are generally considered superior to
the brown, they breed so true. Sometimes a few of the
pullets show one or two dark feathers, but as a rule they
are very slight. They are good when they are kept pure,
or excellent to cross with any other breed.

They are first-class layers all the year round, and lay
as well confined in a small space as when they have their
liberty. The chicks are very hardy. If kept in confined
runs, and fertile eggs are required, six hens only should be
allowed with one cock, but where there is a grass run ten
or twelve hens might run with one male bird.

The eggs hatch out well ; the chicks are strong and
grow very fast, and if kept in sheltered houses and roosts
could be hatched out all the winter. Leghorns are very
active.

The plumage of both cock and hen should be white
throughout, and free from feathers of any other colour, though
occasionally they have dark spots. The ear lobes have a
tinge of yellow upon them ; the legs should be of a deep
yellow colour when they are young.

Mr. Cook says : ' Bone meal and ground oyster shells

D 2

36 NEW-LAID EGGS

should be given very sparingly after the chickens are four
months old, otherwise the legs will become pale. A good
proportion of meat may be given, which brings their combs
out well. They are very active birds, and are continually
on the move.'

The hens begin to lay from four to six months old.
They are hardy birds, and can be hatched out in January,
and go till August, but the earlier they are hatched the
finer birds they grow. They are a beautifully-shaped
bird.

Buff Leghorns. — This variety hails from Denmark, and
as this breed is not yet so well known as it is likely to be,
I will quote Mr. L. C. Verrey's description of them, or
what they should be from his description.

' They should be identical in shape, size, comb, lobes,
and legs with the Brown and White Leghorns. In the
breast and under parts, either a good lemon or orange
colour quite solid. Hackle, back, shoulders, and saddle of
the foregoing colours, but rather deeper in tint ; tail a little
deeper still in shade, with sickles and coverts to harmonise.
The hen a solid lemon or orange colour, with the hackle
richer or deeper in tint ; the tail the same colour as the
body.' He then goes on to say ' he is doubtful if either of
the mentioned shades can be produced by breeding from
Leghorns pure and simple, and can only be arrived at by
infusing Cochin blood. Buff Leghorns have as j^et much
white in tail and flights, and are darker on breast and
lighter in hackle than desirable. The pullets are fairly
sound in colour, but of different shades, and some are in-
clined to run to whitish tails, and show faint white irregular
pencillings in plumage.'

Mr. Verrey goes on to say ' that breeders of Pile
Leghorns generally have a few chickens that come nearly
buff in colour,' and he recommends that ' Pile Leghorns
should be used with the existing Buffs, and so keep the race
pure Leghorn, for it will take sometime to get the Buffs to
breed true to colour.' He further says, ' I am satisfied
that the Buff Leo-horn should remain with white flic^hts and

LEGHOENS 87

white tail feathers edged with buff, and with true Leghorn
characteristics, rather than I would have a breed with an
exhibitors aim only, viz. colour.'

As egg producers they quite equal the other varieties.

Pale Leghorns resemble pale game, are the result
between the white and brown breeds, and are white
splashed with brown.

The Cuckoo^ or Dominique Leghorn, the marking of
which consists of bands of dark blue on a light grey or even
white ground.

Duclavhig Game Leghorn. — The Duckwing Game, Silver-
grey Dorking, and Leghorn participate in the manufacture.

Mottled Leghorns resemble the brown variety in colour,
but the whole body is splashed with white.

Brown Leghorns cross well with Brahma Dorkings and
Minorcas, Cochins, Hamburghs, and best of all with Plymouth
Rocks.

The Brown Leghorn-Brahma cross should be by a Leg-
horn cock and Brahma hens. This cross is very hardy, and
they are excellent layers of large eggs, principally brown.
They make good sitters and mothers ; they do not make
good table birds, as their flesh is yellow.

Brown Leghorn-Dorking birds make very good table
birds, though not large.

Leghorn-Minorca make excellent summer and winter
layers of large white eggs, but not good table birds.

Leghorn-Cochin make pretty birds, are good layers,
lay good-sized tinted eggS, and make good sitters and
mothers.

Leghorn-Hamburgh lay small white eggs, but very rich
in flavour.

The Leghorn-Plymouth Rock is a first-rate cross. A
Leghorn cock, either brown or white, can run with seven
Plymouth Rock hens.

They are wonderful layers of a fair-sized tinted egg.
They are extremely hardy, and when birds are only re-
quired as egg-producers they are unsurpassed. They
make good table birds ; their flesh is white and juicy.

38 NEW-LAID EGGS

Plymouth Eock cocks slioukl never be allowed to run
with Leghorn hens. They make good sitters and mothers.

Malay Fowls

Resemble long-legged barn-door fowls. They are of a
darkish brown streaked with yellow, and sometimes they
are streaked with white. They should be crossed with
Dorkings, and then they are found to be good layers and
sitters, as well as good table birds.

Minorcas

These fowls are splendid layers ; their eggs are of a good
size and flavour ; they are most admirably suited for con-
fined runs, and they are good table birds, as they are of excel-
lent flavour. There are two varieties of this breed. Black
and White. Minorcas have bright red faces with white ear
lobes and large combs. Their legs are dark. They are
non-sitters and lay very large round-shaped white eggs,
which often weigh over 2^ ounces each.

The eggs hatch out well and the chickens fledge fairly
well, and they are known to lay as early as seven months old.
It is best to breed from a one- or two-year-old bird and a
strong vigorous cockerel. These birds stand confinement
well and they can be kept in a very small space. Mr.
Cook observes that six Minorca hens put into a warm run,
2 yards by 6, will lay as many eggs as those which have a
grass run or field to run over.

If the run is bleak it should be sheltered from the cold
east winds, which often turn the birds' combs black, and
especially in frosty weather, when the ends of their
combs become frost-bitten, particularly those of the cocks.
The birds should be let out for a very short time when
it is freezing hard, and some employment found for
them, such as scraping for a little small grain scattered
among a heap of horse manure, or some short loose rubbish
laid down in the road. Pure Minorcas should not have
any white on the face. The cock's comb should be very

MINOKCAS 39

erect, very evenly serrated, and the serrations rather deep ;
the comb itself of a fine texture, feeling soft to the
hand and free from side stripes. They should not have
large wrinkles or thumb marks on the side of the comb.
Wattles long, rounded at the ends, and fine in texture ; the
face should be a brilliant red and as free from feathers as
possible, the ear lobes pure white and almond-shaped, flat,
fitting quite close to the head, and quite free from creases
and red streaks. The beaks should be black or dark horn
colour, and nicely curved ; carriage erect. The plumage
should be black throughout, brilliantly glossy, especially
the hackles and saddle glassy green black ; the tail should
stand out well, not too near the head, the sickle tail feathers
long and tapering; legs dark, with white toe-nails and
four toes on each foot. The hens are black throughout,
with red face, white ear lobes rather rounder than the
male's but not so long, comb evenly serrated and falling
over one side. A pure Minorca is not a large fowl.

When Minorca chicks are first hatched they are of a
whitish yellow underneath and rouud the head. Moulting
goes very hard with good laying Minorcas, especially
when they lay into November. They require special at-
tention.

As a table bird the Black Minorca takes a high position.
Naturally plump, its bones are small, flesh white and juicy
and turkey-like in flavour, and though it does not rank
among the larger breed of fowls it yet attains a size and
sufficient weight to give it a just claim to be considered
a good table bird, the average weight of pullets being
from 41 lbs. to 6 lbs., and of cockerels from 6 to 7^ lbs. at
six months old. They are non-sitters.

White Minorcas are the same in all points as the Black,
only white plumage instead of black, and the legs white.

Orpingtons

These birds are of recent introduction, are home-made,
and were manufactured from Langshan, Black Minorca,

40 NEW-LAID EGGS

and Plymouth Rock. The plumage is black; they lay
very fair-sized eggs, and for table their flesh is very
white, of delicate flavour and remarkably tine texture.
There are two varieties : the Single-comb Black Orpington,
and the Rose-comb Black Orpington. Mr. Cook is the
original breeder of them. They combine the blood of
Minorca, Langshan, and Plymouth Rock. Mr. Cook thus
describes them : ' They are very easy to breed, are hardy
as chickens, and feather and grow fast. They answer every
purpose. They have white skin and flesh, and therefore
make flrst-rate table birds ; splendid layers of brown
eggs, and not liable to get so fat internally.'

The plumage is very glossy ; single combs evenly
serrated in both sexes, standing erect in the cock, not
large but neat ; red face and ear lobes, black or dark legs ;
four toes on each foot, well spread out. The hen's comb
may fall a little to one side, if evenly serrated and without
folds in it.

Rose-Gomh Black Orpingtons. — Are similar to the Or-
pingtons in shape and colour, but have a rose comb. They
are large birds, free from white in the ear lobes. They
are wonderful winter layers of rather small brown eggs.

Their plumage should be black throughout in both
sexes ; rose combs set close to the head with a small peak
at the back, and the neater it is the better ; red face, red
ear lobes, hazel eyes, black, nicely-curved beak, black legs,
and white toe-nails. The cock's tail should have fine
hanging feathers on each side, with a brilliant metallic
green on them.

The chickens when first hatched should be black on
the back and white underneath, and hale on the legs.

Plymouth Rocks

This is a large American breed, imported into England
by Mr. Long. They have smooth yellow legs, short tails,
and single combs. They are cuckoo-marked throughout.

The cock's breast should be of the same colour as the

PLYMOUTH EOCKS 41

hen's body. In the hackles and saddles the markings should
be niucb finer ; red face and ear lobes, single comb, red,
evenly serrated crest. They make good sitters and mothers,
but are apt to be broody too often. They are capital
layers of medium-sized pale brown eggs, are splendid table
birds, and are a first-rate breed to keep. A cross between
Leghorn cocks and Rock hens makes the best layers anyone
can possibly have, besides very good table birds. The
chicks when first hatched are black, with a small white
oval mark on the heads.

Poland Fowls

They are a very noble-looking race, all its varieties
possessing a well-developed crest or tuft of feathers on
the top of the head. There are a great many varieties —
the Golden Polish, the Silver, the White-crested Black, the
Buff or Chamois, the Blue-grey, and Cuckoo or Speckled.

Their combs are very small and completely hidden by
the crest. The wattles are small, and seen only in the
White-crested variety. The legs are of medium length,
blue in colour, and four-toed. The colour of th© plumage
diJBTers with the variety. The Golden Polands have a
ground colour of golden bay laced with black. The
Silvers have a white ground with black markings. The
White-crested are a lustrous black with a pure white crest,
and as free from black feathers in the front of the crest as
possible. The Chamois colour is buff, evenly and distinctly
laced with white. Polish fowls are fairly hardy, and they
should be kept in large covered runs, where their immense
crests do not get saturated with wet. They do not
thrive on damp soils ; on dry sheltered ground they
succeed and lay well. The eggs are of medium size ;
the meat is very good, but the size is not great.

Redcaps

This breed is very similar to the Golden Spangled
Hamburgh, both in colour and shape. They are reddish-

42 NEW-LAID EGGS

brown, with a kind of black balf-moon marks. They have
large rose combs, though not quite so large as the Ham-
burghs. Their ear lobes are red. The chickens when
hatched are of a light bufi" colour, with light and dark
brown stripes on the back. They lay fair- sized white eggs.

Scotch Greys

This is a very valuable breed of poultry, and very
popular in Scotland. It is a non-sitter, though occasionally
a hen may show a disposition to sit. They are something
after the Dorking breed, but the carriage and shape are
more upright than in that breed, and the bird is more
active. Cocks weigh from eight to nine and a half pounds
when a year old, and the hens, as a rule, a pound less.

The groundwork of the plumage is a beautiful blue
grey with neat moons of a metallic black on every feather,
and in good specimens the tail feathers of the cock will be
marked right to the tip. The comb of the cock is large
and single, the wattles proportionately long, and with the
face and ear lobes bright scarlet. In the hen the comb
should fall slightly over to one side. The legs are white,
but if mottled a little with black this is not objected to.
It is a good layer of large white eggs, which are well-
flavoured, averaging about 120 to 130 eggs per annum.
As table fowls they are not much inferior to Dorkings.

Scotch Greys are not suitable to confined yards, and
they require plenty of green food.

Spanish Fowls

This is a very favourite breed, as they stand confine-
ment and town life well, and as producers of large
brown eggs they are most valuable. They go on laying
all the year round except in moulting time. They are
non-sitters.

In appearance they are very handsome and aristocratic-
looking birds. Their colour is a lustrous black, and they

spanishTfowls 43

should be without a suspicion of white or any other colour
in their plumage. They have long legs, which render them
rather unsightly as table birds. The cocks are very majestic
in their gait. The combs are very long and single, and are
erect in the males, and should fall over to one side in the
females. They have immensely large ear lobes, very white.
Their faces are white, though except in first-rate specimens
one often finds that the face has more or less red over the
eyes. The chickens are a long time in fledging, and are
delicate, and require a little toast and ale twice daily, and
also meat and milk occasionally.

The chickens have always white feathers in the flight
portion of the wings, which become black as they grow.

There are also the White Spanish, the points being
similar to the black, except in colour.

The Wyandotte

These are a very good all-round fowl to keep. They
are first-class layers of a good, brown, medium-sized egg,
good sitters, and very careful mothers.

Another thing is, if when they become broody they are
shut in for three days, they will begin to lay again at once.
They are capital winter layers. The chickens are very
hardy and bear cold well. They are fairly good table birds,
and on the score of beauty they are hard to beat. They
are of good size, elegant carriage, and lovely plumage.

They have large rose combs with a beak protruding
over the back of the head, face and ear lobes red, beaks
yellow and strong, legs bright yellow with four toes on each
foot, well spread out from each other, tails black.

The cock is of the same colour as a dark Brahma, saddle
and hackles white striped with black, back and wings of a
silvery white slightly edged with black.

They should have the breasts laced on a bright golden
or silver ground.

In the hen the breast, back, and wings are spangled,
whilst the under feathers are beautifully laced, and also at

44 NEW-LAID EGGS

the top of the thighs, the middle of the feather being-
white, edged all round with black. The centre bars of the
wing are white, just edged with black.

The Wyandottes are an American breed, but do not
always breed true. Mr. Cook says they are a cross
between Silver-spangled Hamburgh and dark Brahma.

They are very large birds.

Bantams

These are kept principally for fancy purposes. There
are several varieties, the chief of which are Game, Golden,
and Silver-laced Sebrights, White and Black Eose-combed,
Booted and Feather-legged Pekin, Japanese, Duckwing,
and Black Reds. Sebrights are the smallest.

The cock has a gold or silver ground, each feather being
minutely and perfectly laced, with a very narrow black
edging extending to the tail. He has no sickles ; the
wings are carried low, and his deaf ears are perfectly white.

Black Bantams have a rose comb, and are exceedingly
small, have red faces and small white ear lobes, free from
wrinkles or red spots, black legs, and four toes on each
foot.

White Bantams should be pure white, with white legs
and rose combs.

Booted Bantams are white, with vulture-hocked feathers
on their legs.

Japanese are white, dumpy birds, with large single
combs and long black tails laced with white.

Pekin or Nankin Bantams are simply diminutive
Cochins.

Game Bantams are simply diminutive game fowl.

To get Bantams small, which is their beauty, they
should not be hatched out early in the season. June and
July are the best months for hatching them out.

Bantams are as a rule excellent, attentive mothers, aud
very good layers of small, deliciously flavoured eggs.

Bantam chicks require rather more animal food than

BANTAMS 45

those of other fowls, and for a week or two extra care must
be taken to keep them dry. To keep down their size they
should be fed scantily, and should have more hard grain
than soft food ; rice is good for them.

Diseases Poultry are Subject To

1. Diseases of nervous system: — Apoplexy, paralysis,
vertigo, neuralgia, and debility.

2. Diseases of the lungs and air passages : — Cold,
catarrh, bronchitis, pneumonia, roup, consumption, gripes,
and pip.

3. Diseases of digestive organs : — Diarrhoea, cholera
crop-bound, dysentery, indigestion, constipation, liver
disease, and inflammation of the bowels.

4. Diseasesofthe egg organs: — Inflammation of oviduct,
soft-shelled eggs, eggs broken within the body, egg-bound,
hernia, and discharge from oviduct.

5. Diseases of the locomotive organs :— Rheumatism,
cramp, gout, leg-weakness, and bumble-foot, various comb
diseases, poisoning, dropsy, tumours, feather-eating, egg-
eating, and canker.

Apoplexy

Over-feeding produces this ailment ; the bird generally
falls down suddenly and becomes motionless.

Pour cold water on the head and open a vein under
the wing, which must be done by a longitudinal slit,
not a cross cut. Keep on a light diet with plenty of green
food, isolated and quiet. Also give a teaspoonful of
liquorice powder.

Baldness

Is caused by deficiency of green food. Feed well, give
plenty of green food, and apply to the bald place a little
ointment made of green iodide of mercury one part, to
eleven parts of fresh lard fno salt in it), and use night and
morning for a week.

46 NEW-LAID EGGS

Bpoken Legs

If valuable chicks should by any accident get their legs
broken, it is quite possible to cure them.

Bind as quickly as possible a strip of linen cloth half an
inch wide and eight inches long round the fractured member,
drawing each end of the bandage tight, and tying with a
thread. Then take a strip of cloth five inches wide and cut
two holes in it for the chick or fowl's legs to go through, and
hang it up to a hook. Place a piece of shingle between the
bird and hook to act as a spreader, so that his weight would
not squeeze him ; additional strips of cloth to be placed
before and behind him to prevent his falling out.

Place the food on a movable shelf just far enough away
to touch the end of his toes.

Three times a day, for four days, bathe the broken leg
with arnica. Then he may be taken down if a chick (a
fowl would take two or three days longer), and place him
in a soft nest, and in a day or two remove the bandages,
and in about ten days the bird is likely to be well and
about again.

Some persons poultice the leg for a couple of days, and
then wrap it in cotton wool, and splint it very tight, and if
this is done at once it will be quite well at the end of a
fortnight.

Broken Wings

If the bird is valuable the wings may be mended by
tying the points of the quill feathers together in a natural
position.

Bponchitis

Keep the bird warm and hold its head over hot steam
medicated with hops, and three or four times daily give a
few drops of brandy and milk. Two or three difops of
spirits of camphor in a teaspoonful of glycerine will be
found useful. When it is getting better put a few
grains of sulphate of iron in its drinking water. Soft

BKONCHITIS 47

warm food should be given, and do not let it be exposed
to damp or cold for some days after.

Bumble Foot

Poultice tlie foot or feet, as the case may be, so as to
bring the swelling to a head, and do not break it too soon.
Continue the poulticing for a short time after, so as to
extract the whole of the growth. The birds should not
perch until after the wound has healed, and all dirt and
irritating matters should be hept out.

Canker

Canker is the yellowish deposit that forms in the angle
of the mouth at the opening of the mandibles, and upon
the mucous membrane lining of the mouth and throat, and
especially at the trachea. It is sometimes mere ulceration
indicating impurity of the blood, at other times it is a
sym]otom of diphtheritic roup.

When the fowl seems strong and vigorous, the mere
removal of the deposit and a few applications of lunar
caustic or burnt alum to the affected parts will effect a
cure, or a solution of tannin in water. But where there
is constitutional weakness, the treatment must be both
constitutional and local. For constitutional treatment
give capsules containing two grains of quinine and six or
seven drops of tincture of iron, night and morning. For
local treatment wash the head, nostrils, and eyes in salt
and water, remove the deposit, causing as little bleeding
as possible, and sprinkle upon the affected parts iodo-
form. This powder is expensive, but little is required for
an application. It should be kept in a bottle tightly
corked. Give, as the fowl recovers, milk thickened with
isinglass, which is most soothing, also finely minced beef,
and, in severe cases, a few drops of brandy may be mixed
with the emulsion, as also cod liver oil.

48 NEW-LAID EGGS

Catarrh, or Common Cold

Mix roup powder in the soft food, and give the worst
each one teaspoonfiil of glycerine and then one of stewed
linseed.

If there is any rattling in the throat, it proceeds from
a slight stoppage of the bronchial tubes, and nothing is
so good for it as glycerine and stewed linseed. If the face
is swollen and the nostrils run, Mr. Cook recommends
bathing the face with warm milk and water ; then wipe
it dry and apply a little iodine with a feather on the
fleshy part of the face where the swelling is (but not in
the eyes).

Roup powder in the form of pills, and a little castor
oil, should be administered. A week's treatment generally
cures ; they should not be allowed in the run during their
treatment. The symptoms are watery discharge from the
nostrils, which gradually gets thicker, and the eyes become
more or less bleared.

The cause is generally exposure to cold east and
northerly winds, damp and draughty roosting houses.

Chickenpox

Is characterised by the appearance of numerous small ulcers
on the head and face, which become covered with scabs.
This disease attacks Spanish and Leghorns more frequently
than other breeds. It is contagious. The affected parts
should be kept clean with Castile soap and warm water,
and applications of vinegar and chloride of potassium
should be made. Sulphur given internally will be found
beneficial.

Cholera (Fowl)

The cause of this disease is overcrowding, bad sanitary
management, and unwholesome and irregular feeding,
which cause the development of bacteria and afterwards
blood-poisoning. It generally attacks the liver, which

CHOLEEA (FOWL) 49

becomes enlarged and softened ; the gall bladder becomes
clogged up and the whole digestive process impeded. The
disease is very contagious, and fowls showing symptoms
of it should be isolated from the others. The principal
symptom is that the excreta are yellow, which are generally
white. Sometimes it commences with diarrhoea, which
increases in violence, the evacuations being slimy white
with some particles of red, and tinged with yellow, and when
very bad changing to a green colour. As the disease
progresses the skin is very red, especially the rump portion,
the temperature of the bird rises, the comb becomes very
pale, the appetite fails, and the fowl shows great weakness
and it soon dies, often in convulsions.

This disease lasts from one to seven days. If the fowls
are not valuable it is best to kill them at once and have
their bodies burnt, and give a dose of kerosene oil to the
healthy birds in their soft food, in the proportion of one
tablespoonful to two quarts of the meal. The run, house,
feedino; trouo-hs, and water fountains must be cleaned
and disinfected by sprinkling thoroughly about one per
cent, solution of carbolic acid. All excreta must be taken
away and burnt, and the whole run, &c., whitewashed.
The following are recommended remedies in the earliest
stage of the disease.

No. 1.

Force down the fowl's throat 10 drops of strong tincture of Eu-
calyptus globulus, 4 to 6 grains of common salt, -k teaspoonful of
cayenne.

One dose in a tablespoonful of water to be given at once, and in
24 hours the fowl is generally relieved.

No. 2,

Add a teaspoonful of strong liquid carbolic acid to 1^ pint of
water. Mix all their soft food with this water, and let the "birds eat
^vhat they will of it. If they do not eat, give them a teaspoonful of
the water twice a day. Keep the birds warm and dry, and give no
drinking water.

No. 3.

4 parts hyposulphate of soda, 2 parts boracic acid, 1 part
mandrake root, 1 part cayenne, 1 part rosin. 1 part jnilvcrised

50 KEW-LAID EGGS

rhubarb. Give each fowl a teaspoonfol, and repeat every hour till
relieved. "When the birds are recovering give each a few drops of
tincture of iron in a spoonful of warm water.

A writer in ' Farm, Field, and Fireside ' advises one
tablespoonfiil of pine tar, in a small pan which will hold
water, and to confine the diseased fowls so that they cannot
have access to any other drink, and it will effect a cure. The
writer had proved the efficacy of this by using it himself
for ten years.

When purging is very profuse, cblorodyne and carbolic
acid are good. Use three to six measures of the former in
a dessertspoonful of water, and one of the latter pure, dis-
solved in ten drops of glycerine and given in a dessert-
spoonful of water.

Consumption

When fowls are wasting without any apparent disorder, a
teaspoonful of cod liver oil per day will be found a most
efl&cacious remedy.

Cramp

In cramp the feet become contracted, and the fowl unable
to move its legs; generally caused by damp and cold. To
cure it, put the chicken's legs into hot water and bathe
them well, and rub some of Elliman's embrocation
upon the legs. Wrap them in flannel, and keep the
bird in a basket for a few days ; repeat the dressing if
necessary,

Cpop-bound

This is caused by food not passing into the stomacli
by reason of the gizzard getting stopped up, and the crop
becoming distended. The fowl should be kept in a warm
place, and given three drops of aconite in half a pint of
water. Warm food should be given very sparingly,
mixed with a little liquorice, ginger, aniseed, and sulphate
of iron. Eoup sometimes sets in after the bird is crop-
bound, and it is a good plan to wash its face and nostrils
with carbolic acid diluted in the proportion of one to
sixty of water.

CKOP-BOUND 51

When a fowl is crop-bound, it will be often noticed to
take up food and lay it down again, and drink a quantity
of water, whicli causes the crop to turn liard.

Mr. Cook advises (what I always have done) two tea-
spoonfuls of castor oil and a little warm water to be given,
and to rub the crop gently, so as to remove its contents.

If the crop does not get softer in three hours, the
warm water and nibbing should be repeated, and again
if still ineffectual. The crop must be opened by placing
the bird on its back, getting some one to hold it ; then
part all the feathers down the centre of the crop, with-
out pulling them out ; then make an incision at the top
of the crop with a small and sharp penknife, carefully
avoiding cutting any of the large blood-vessels in the
outer skin. The hole should be an inch long ; the end
of a teaspoon can be used to empty the crop, which must
be very carefully and gently done.

The crop should be washed out with a little warm
water, and a little salad oil put round the inside with a
feather, and then sewn up with silk, each skin being
sewn up separately. Wipe the wound dry, and give no
water for thirty hoars.

Soft food should be made with a little hot milk, just
enough to make it moist. It must be made fresh every
feeding time, and the fowl will be well in two or three days.

Some poultry rearers give a quarter of a teaspoonful
of jalap mixed with butter in the form of a pill, instead
of the castor oil.

Diapphcea

Give a teaspoonful of salad oil, followed by five grains
of rhubarb and ten grains of carbonate of soda, or three
to six drops of chlorodyne, in a dessertspoonful of water or
port wine every four hours.

In severe cases a pill containing one grain each of
tannic acid and opium is an effectual remedy. During
the attack, and for a little time after, feed on soft food
and give no green stuff".

E 2

52 NEW-LAIB EGGS

Eczema

The symptoms are an eruption of minute vesicles,
which generally run together and break.

The wattles, comb, and face are chiefly attacked, and
it is caused by over-stimulating food. It is found most
frequently in highly- bred fowls.

The following treatment is recommended : — Ten or
twenty grains of sulphate of magnesia, a grain of calomel,
followed by three grains of carbonate of iron twice a day
in a teaspoonful of water, and apply locally benzoated
oxide of zinc ointment twice a day.

In very severe cases, when the scabs are very hard,
they may be removed after first softening them with
warm water and dressing the parts with the following
preparation :

^ ounce oxide of zinc

„ olive oil
2 drachms tincture of arnica
1 drachm spirit of camphor
10 minims pure carbolic acid
7 ounces rose-water

to be applied three times a day.

Give plenty of fresh green food and plain nutritious
diet.

Egg-bound

Inability to lay from the unusual size of the egg. A
dose or two of salad oil and some chopped groundsel
affords relief. Generally also a feather dipped in castor
oil may be passed up the egg passage very carefully.
Soft unstimulating food should be given.

Egg Organs Inflamed

Is caused by over-feediug. The birds go on to the nest
without laying, ©r they lay shell-less eggs, and drop their
eggs from the perch and elsewhere. They should be fed
on boiled mashed potatoes and boiled rice for a week.

EGG OEGANS INFLAMED 53

Give a dessertspoonful of salad oil, or a pill made with, one
grain of calomel and one-twelfth grain of tartar emetic
every second day for the same time.

Fowls Losing Feathers

Fowls sometimes pick out their feathers when they are
in runs, for occupation's sake. The best thing is to give
them plenty of good sharp flint grit and poultry powders,
and a little sulphur in their food will help the growth of
new feathers.

Frostbites

These affect the comb and wattles chiefly, but may also
cause injury to the feet. A careful examination of poultry
should be made after any severe cold weather, to see whether
the combs and wattles have been touched. If the trouble
has been detected before the frozen part has thawed out,
it should be subjected to friction with snow or very cold
water till the frost has been removed. The fowl must not
be brought near the fire or into a warm apartment until
this thawing process has been, completed. After the
thawing out, bathe the affected parts in camphorated
spirit or compound tincture of myrrh, and a.noint with
glycerine, sweet oil, or turpentine ointment.

Gapes

Dip a feather in paraffin and then put it down the
bird's throat and twist the feather round a few times and
withdraw it.

I am told that paraffin floating on the drinking-water
answers sometimes, but I have never tried it.

This disease is common to chickens. The symptoms
are frequent yawning and gaping, which is 'caused by
peculiar parasitic worms adhering to the inside of the
windpipe. It generalh^ seizes chicks about three weeks
old. Their feathers become ruffled, they have no appetite,

54 NEW-LAID EGaS

and sometimes there is a moisture from tlie moutli. It is
often produced by drinking stagnant or dirty water, also
by poor food and paucity of green meat.

Mr. Bailey recommends two camphor pills the size of a
garden pea as another excellent remedy. Another is
to make a pill of soot and fat, and give it to the ailing
bird, which I find very effectual.

Mr. Cook recommends one teaspoonful of Jeyes's Disin-
fectant to one tablespoonful of water. The gullet should
be worked up by the thumb and finger so that the wind-
pipe is within easy reach. Dip the feather in the solution
and put it down from two to five inches, according to the
size of the chicken. Twist it round two or three times,
and if the chick is much distressed put a salad oil feather
down its windpipe, and then a teaspoonful of water.

A knob of quicklime put into the drinking fountain,
sufficient to make it milky when stirred, and then let it
settle and pour off for use, is a good preventive.

Leg Weakness

Young cockerels that grow very quickly are subject to
this. The symptoms are sitting down to eat their food,
dropping down quickly and frequently, and tumbling over.

They should have bone meal mixed with the soft food,
and meat given them. Put a tablespoonful of Parrish's
Chemical Food to a pint of water in the drinking trough.

Bathe the bird's legs and feet in hot water and rub in
some Elliman's Embrocation, and wrap them up in flannel.
The birds should not roost, and should be put in a basket
or on moss peat for a time. Birds with leg weakness
should not be kept for stock birds.

Lice

There are four species of lice which affect fowls. Three
kinds infest their bodies, while the fourth sort makes
its home within the nests, on the perches, and elsewhere.

LICE 56

whence it issues at night to feed upon the birds when
upon the roost.

Lice cause great depression and loss of health. The
tufts of crested fowls form a favourite shelter for parasites.
When lice are discovered on the fowls, dust them thoroughly
with Persian, Dalmatian, or carbolic powder. Suds of
carbolic soap applied to various parts of the body, especi-
ally under the wings, the vent, head and neck, or a bath
of one part carbolic acid and sixty parts water, into which
plunge the fowls and thoroughly saturate their feathers.
But in cold weather great care must be taken to prevent
them catching cold ; therefore an ointment of lard, sulphur,
and kerosene oil, equal parts, may be applied to adult fowls,
and perhaps is better.

To rid the house, remove all filth ; whitewash and
fumigate.

Liver

Liver complaints come from various causes. In-
breeding is the primary cause.

Lameness is a sure sign that the bird is affected with liver
disease, and there is no cure for it. Birds should not be eaten,
neither should their eggs be used. It is not infectious.

Fowls in confinement are most liable to this complaint.
The symptoms are a yellow cast and sunken look about
the face, the comb pale, and the eyes dull ; they drink the
first thing in the morning before eating, and take a dislike
to soft food.

Want of sharp grit is a great factor for liver complaint
in fowls, and too much maize in the feeding is another
cause.

Hot weather is bad for them, though they will stand
any amount of cold.

Inflammation of the Liver

This is often caused by insufficient exercise, over-
feeding, exposure to damp, cold, or intense heat, and some-
times it is occasioned by scrofula and tuberculosis.

56 NEW-LAID EGGS

The best plan to pursue is to feed sparingly for a time,
using bread soaked in milk or lime-water, or boiled rice.

Separate ailing birds from tlie rest and dose them
with half a grain each of calomel and opium. Repeat
this every six hours and follow up with ten-grain doses of
tartrate of potash morning and evening. Diarrhoea, if
present, should be checked by chlorodyne, and the breast
and abdomen held over steam.

Another remedy is to give an aperient, such as sulphate
of magnesia and bicarbonate of soda ; ten grains of each
should be given daily for a week, and doses of homoeo-
pathic tincture of podophyllum twice a day.

I find dandelions and watercresses cut up in small pieces
and given in the food are the best remedies, with Cook's
roup powders given twice a week.

Boiled rice for a change, for the evening meal, is good.

When fowls have had liver disease their excreta are very
yellow, and they waste away and become almost skin and bone .

Pip

This complaint begins with a softening of the beak,
and increases to such a degree of soreness that the bird
is unable to pick up food, and if not attended to will
starve. To cure it, take up the bird and nip off with your
forefinger and thumb |- of an inch at the tip of the beak,
and the cure is effected. Then comes the formation of a
tough white membranous substance on the tongue and
back part of the mouth, with loss of appetite and feverish
restlessness ; generally from some disease, such as catarrh,
or roup, or gapes.

Anoint the tongue with pure glycerine or salad oil, and
then scrape away the white membrane with the forefinger,
with a piece of rag dipped in a weak solution of alum,
for a day or two, and then apply glycerine again ; give a
dose of roup powder. Pip is said by some authorities to
be caused by drinking foul water ; therefore care should
be taken that they have always pure fresh water. During

PIP 57

the time they should be fed on barley meal made into a
stiff paste.

A West Indian Cure for Fip. — Take a lump of butter
the size of a nut, and a piece of aloes the size of a pea ;
make into a pill, and put it down the fowl's throat. An
hour after the cure is complete.

Pneumonia, or Inflammation of the Lungs

The symptoms are, breathing very hard, keeping the
mouth open, and appearing to be in pain. They usually drink
a quantity of water, unless very bad, and keep closing their
eyes.

This may only be a bad bronchial cold. Give at once
a few spoonfuls of linseed, as warm as they can swallow it,
and keep the birds in a warm room, and rub a little
mustard and vinegar, mixed thin, under the wing in the
bare place, about an inch from the joint. I generally
find this cure them ; and when cured they should not be
allowed to run into the cold air.

If very bad and weak try this remedy : —

Keep the chickens in a warm place, and paint the skin
on the back in the region of the lungs with tincture of
iodine. Give them, in half a teaspoonful of warm milk,
one drop of spirits of camphor and five drops of brandy
three or four times a day. Chop up a little raw beef very
finely, and mix in their soft food occasionally. To ease
the bird, two drops of chlorodyne may be given in a tea-
spoonful of linseed oil. If very weak a little port wine
and beaten egg may be given.

Poultry with Swollen Tongue

Moisten the swelling with roup lotion, and then the
substance may be removed with the quill of a feather.
Then bathe the mouth every morning with warm milk and
water for a week.

58 NEW-LAID EGGS

Rattling in the Tliroat

When a fowl rattles in tlie throat, pour some warm
linseed tea down its throat.

If you place the little naked spot under the wing close
to the ear, you can easily detect whether it is on the
lungs or in the throat. If from the lungs, rub a little
tincture of arnica on the skin just over the lungs with a
feather.

Rheumatism

When fowls have rheumatism in the legs, the wings
suddenly fall, and the fowls fall forwards on their breast.
They should be warmly housed, and have the legs rubbed
with St. Jacob's Oil every night and morning, and give at
every convenient opportunity a spoonful of a saturated
solution in water of salicine. A little cayenne will also do
good.

Roup

Deaths from roup in fowls occur mostly in the third
stage of roup, or swell-head, as it is often called.

This form of the disease is contracted by contact
with birds already affected, or from a neglected cold which
is allowed to run on.

Koup in its first stage is simply a slight catarrh, which
is easily cured by feeding for a few days on hot soft food
containing a strong tonic. Then it arrives at the stage
where the discharge from the beak thickens and becomes
offensive. They must be given in addition an injection
in the nostrils — lard and kerosene of each one tablespoon-
ful, to which add ten drops of carbolic acid.

When the head swells and the discharge becomes
offensive, it is useless to try and effect a cure, and to kill
is the only thing to do.

The causes are various. Fowls kept on cold damp
soil will be subject to it, or when placed in a draught, some-

EOUP 59

times through the door of their house being kept open all
night, or when draughts reach them on their perch during
the night; through bad ventilation and uncleanness of
their house and run.

When a bird is suspected of having roup it should be
separated from the others and removed to a dry warm place.
If it has only running at the nostrils, the best thing is
to put a teaspoonful of compound essence of linseed in a
pint of its drinking water, changing the water twice a day.

This is a good preparation I always keep by me, as a dose
may be given with great gain to the stock in the autumn and
winter months, also in wet weather. Also mix some of
Cook's roup powder with their soft food.

If the face is swollen, get some camomile flowers, pour
boiling water on them, and bathe with it when it is cold.

If the running matter have turned into yellow matter,
get a quarter of an ounce of sulphate of copper, dissolve in
a pint of water, wash the nostrils and mouth out twice
a day, not letting the bird swallow it. If matter ad-
here to the top of the windpipe after being washed with
the solution it will become hard and dry, when scrape it off,
and if it grows again, repeat the operation. When the
matter is taken off, the bird will most likely bleed a little,
then give a teaspoonful of glycerine. If it does not pick
up its food, feed it with soft stuff made into rolls two
inches long dipped in water. They must have food some-
how.

A remedy recommended by a well-known poultry-
breeder is to wash the nostrils, eyes, and mouth with
Labarraque's solution of chlorinated soda, diluted with
twice its bulk of water. Feed on warm food, slightly
seasoned with cayenne, and have twenty pills made up of
20 grs. cayenne, 10*grs. sulphate of copper, 1 fluid drachm
of copaiba, and give one night and morning. Continue
the washing process twice a day during the attack,
and give half a teaspoonful of Epsom salts the first day of
the attack, and a second one if necessary on the third
day.

60 NEW-LAID EaGS

Diphtheritic Roup

This is roup seriously aggravated, and generally either
causes death or leaves the fowl in a very ailing condition ;
the symptoms are very offensive breath and great discharge
from the nostrils, which dries all round the outside,
and a thick mucus from the mouth, which causes heavy
breathing. A thick cheesy matter forms on the tongue, and
increases so much that the tongue often protrudes from the
mouth.

The fowl should be placed in warm moist air, and all
pus and matter carefully removed from the mouth with a
piece of sponge fastened to a small paintbrush handle, and
moistened with warm carbolised water.

Mix together half an ounce of balsam of copaiba, half
an ounce of cayenne pepper, half an ounce of liquorice
powder, thirty grains of sulphate of iron (dry), about one
tablespoonful of wheat flour, and add sufficient glycerine
to make it into a stiff paste. This will make 128 pills;
roll them in flour and finish them, and give the fowls one
pill night and morning ; chicks only half the dose. If
specks appear the parts should be painted with tannic acid
five grains and one ounce of glycerine.

The fowl must be well nourished w^ith mucilaginous food,
a little at a time and often. Milk thickened with arrowroot
forms the best diet, and finely minced raw beef may be
mixed with it, also cod liver oil. When quite recovered,
tonics should be given and the bird kept from damp and
cold for some time after.

Another poultry breeder recommends the following
lotion : Half an ounce of sulphate of copper (poison) in a
pint and a quarter of distilled water, and bottle it. Soak
a small bit of sponge with it tied on to the end of a small
stick, and make a wedge-shaped point at the other, and
well scrub off all cheesy spots in mouth and throat. When
cleaning the mouth, press all the discharge out of nostrils
and work the lotion well up the same, pressing it
thoroughly with thumb and finger, which causes the dis-

DIPHTHEEITIC ROUP 61

charge to come out of slit in the roof of the mouth, which
can be removed with a feather dipped in the lotion. Great
care must be taken that only a very little of the lotion goes
down the throat.

A small piece of sulphate of copper may now be fixed
securely in a slit in the end of another piece of stick,
which must be used to cauterise all the diphtheritic blotches
in the mouth and throat. This will not require using
more than two or three days in succession. ' This treat-
ment,' the writer observes, ' cures the very worst cases in a
week or ten days.'

Scaly Legs

This is really but a parasitical excrescence, and seldom
happens to poultry that are continuously well cared for.

Rub the legs with an ointment of equal parts paraffin
and sulphur, made into a paste and rubbed on each morning,
or soak the legs well in soap and water, using Spratt's
poultry soap with a little soda in it as hot as can be borne
for ten minutes. After drying, rub the above mixture
well in and leave it smeared over.

Scours

Rice boiled with plenty of water, so that the grains do
not stick together, and when done the water should be
strained and then a little finely powdered chalk sprinkled
over it. Give this at midday daily till better.

Sneezing Chickens

Keep the chicks warm and feed on soft nourishing food
sprinkled with cayenne or ginger. If very bad, a very
small dose of Glauber's salts will be found effective. Sponge
the nostrils and eyelids from time to time with warm water
into which a little Labarraque's solution of chlorinated soda
has been placed, and keep the chicks from being exposed
to cold or showery weather for some days after recovery.

62 NEW-LAID EG-GS

Swollen Feet

This, if taken in time, may be soon cured by carefully
paring the hardened surface and touching the parts daily
with one drop of acetic acid. The bird must not be
allowed to perch and must have a soft bed during the
time. If the swelling breaks the growth should be care-
fully dissected and nitrate of silver applied; great care
must be taken to keep out the dirt. Poulticing is good
under these circumstances, and carbolic acid should be
applied.

Swollen Toes

Bathe the bird's feet with hot water, and apply some
tincture of arnica with a feather to the toes. If there
should be any matter, prick the toes and squeeze it out.

Swollen Wattles

"When the wattles swell and appear heavy, there is gene-
rally an accumulation of matter in them. They should be
pricked at the bottom, and then gently squeeze the matter
out, bathe with warm water, and paint with vaseline.
They should be painted with arnica to reduce the swelling.

Vertigo

Caused by over-feeding, and the symptoms are ruffled
plumage, staggering as they walk, and often temijorary
blindness. The treatment should be similar to that for
apoplexy, and the diet reduced, and salad oil or Glauber's
salts given.

White Comb

The comb has white scales on it, which look like a fun-
goid growth, but this seldom occurs to fowls which are
well looked after and kept clean.

The best thing is to paint the comb with glycerine.

WOEMS 63

Wopms

The symptoms are a capricious appetite, unhealthy-
looking coat, the feathers lacking gloss and having a dead
and ruffled appearance, and general debility. When birds
are thus the evacuations should be looked to for the presence
of these parasites. A good dose of Epsom salts, followed
by sulphur in the food, is helpful. Garlics are excellent for
this purpose. Another remedy is to let them fast for twenty-
four hours, and then mix some very strong roup powder
into pellets with soft meal : a tablespoonful of meal, three
parts of a teaspoonful of roup powder, with a little fat, to
each fowl.

In three hours the worms will have come away, and
they can have their soft food as usual.

Wounds and Ulcers,

Caused either by fighting or accident, should be kept
clean by gently washing and painting the parts lightly
with Venice turpentine, and when they begin to heal, a little
lapis calaminaris may be sprinkled over the parts daily.

Feeding Fowls for Market

One of the weekly poultry papers writes : ' If by feeding
with one bushel of corn in a week, instead of two weeks, you
get the increased size, the birds will be ready for market
so much the sooner, and one week often makes a wide dif-
ference in the net receipts from young chicks. The same
food should not be given two days in succession ; the bill
of fare should vary through the week or more.

' Feed twice a day ; soft food in the mornings, slightly
seasoned with ground cayenne, and whole grain at night,
particularly in winter, when it remains in the crop and
gizzard, digesting gradually through the long nights. Do
not fail to give boiled meat, summer or winter, whenever
the fowls are shut up where they cannot procure insects.'
Raw meat may be given occasionally; fresh vegetables

64 NEW-LAID EGGS

should be given daily. Clover, cut short, and grass, is
good for them in summer, and raw cabbage and boiled
potatoes in winter.

Killing and Dressing Fowls for Market

' Hens should be killed just before going into moult,'
says the ' Fancier's Gazette ; ' ' if not, the killing must be
put ofiF for seven or eight weeks, and consequently extra
expense is incurred, and the profitable return is not so
great, which makes a good deal of difference in the balance
sheet when it is struck at the end of the year. For the
birds to be in the best condition for cooking, they should
be killed just as they begin to shed their feathers, at which
time they will be found to be tender, juic}", and plump,
but if kept longer than this they will not be fit for some
considerable time, as during the moult the birds lose greatly
in weight, some quite as much as one pound, and the later
in the season they cast their feathers the greater the loss.'
The first step after they have been properly fattened is that
they should be put into a pen from sixteen to twenty-four
hours without food, to have their crops empty, for a full crop
causes the skin to turn very dark a few hours after being
killed.

There are several modes of killing — beheading, and
sticking them in the throat in the ordinary way, or wringing
their necks. There is another way, by striking them on
the back of the head or neck with a heavy stick.

In killing, whichever way it is to be, the bird's legs should
be tied together by string, and the wings interlocked to
prevent fluttering. If it is to be beheaded the neck should
iDe placed on a block, and with a sharp chopper severed
at one blow ; if to be stuck, the head of the bird should
be held in the left hand with the throat towards the
executioner, and the bill held open, and with a very sharp
thin-bladed knife make a double or V-shaped cut at
the back of the tongue, severing the two arteries, and the
bird will very quickly bleed to death, not leaving a scar.

KILLING AKD BEESSIKG FOWLS 65

After hanging up for half an hour, it should be plucked, as
the feathers can be pulled out very easily whilst the body
is warm. After the birds are plucked, they should be
hung up in a cool place for a few days.

Many persons place the fowl immediately after killing
it in a tub of cold water, and it is held there till it
has ceased to kick, when it must be directly taken out, and
then the feathers will come out by themselves as easily as
if scalded. Care must be taken to hold the chicken long
enough, but not too long, in the water, and to remove the
feathers immediately.

The skin is not torn or disfigured in any way, and
it requires no more than five minutes to kill and dress a
bird in this way.

Many also, to improve the appearance of the bird,
plunge the body, as soon as plucked, into boiling water for
a few minutes, as it makes the skin look clean and nice,
and helps to make the bird plump.

In plucking remove the wing and tail feathers first,
then the smaller ones. Pen-feathers may be removed by
means of pincers.

I do not speak from experience, as I have never seen a
fowl killed, nor do I wish to, as one becomes attached to the
poor things, but, as it is a necessary performance, I have
described what I have heard are the best ways.

The most advised plan, given in ' Farm, Field, and Fire-
side,' is to have a barrelprovided with a number of nails driven
in round the open edge. A number of loops of twine about
six inches long are also provided. The bird is fastened by
noosing the loop round the legs, and is hung in the barrel
head downwards. The head is then taken in the left hand
and a sharp-pointed knife is pushed through the throat
close to the vertebrae, and drawn forward so as to cut the
throat clear through, by which sensation is at once arrested
and the fowl bleeds to death rapidly and painlessly. Being-
confined in the barrel the splashing from the fluttering is
avoided and everything is done in a cleanly and easy
manner. It should be scalded for plucking by taking

F

Qe KEW'LAIl) EGGS

a pail three-quarters full of boiling water and plunging the
bird into it, drawing it up and down a few times. Keep up
the scalding heat by adding a quart of boiling water occa-
sionally.

Preparing Fowls for Exhibition

The following method is strongly recommended. Select
birds which match well, and carefully wash their heads and
legs. Put them in a nice dry room pretty thickly covered
with clean straw, and scatter a few handfuls of wheat
about. In scratching for the wheat the fowls clean them-
selves. A little sulphate of iron is dissolved in the
drinking water, in order to improve the colour of the ears
and comb. The food should consist of oatmeal and Indian
meal well boiled, together with a small quantity of salt
just to season it. When properly done it resembles a thick
jelly. Twice during the day rice is given, prepared by
boiling 1 lb. in a pint of water until the water is dissolved,
then adding as much milk as it will take u^d without getting
thin, with a handful of coarse brown sugar. Keep stir-
ring until done, then put into a bowl to cool. This
keeps them from purging. Green food should be supphed.
White and light-coloured fowls often require a thorough
washing.

To get White Leghorns into show condition they should
be kept in a pen shaded from the light from ten to fourteen
days before the show, and the coop should be placed back
to the light and even a fine piece of canvas nailed in front.
But be sure to give plenty of ventilation. And they must
be washed in a tub of warm water, with a little soap in it.
The fowls should stand in the water and well soak the
feathers. Then scrub them well and rinse them with blue
water with the chill off. The fowls must then be dried —
put into a drying hasket and set before the fire — and give
them two roup pills to prevent their catching cold. They
should be washed two or three days before they are to be
exhibited, in order that they may become perfectly dry.

FOWLS FOE EXHIBITION 67

When dry, brush the feathers carefully, each feather the way
it lies, with a fine hat brush ; brush the fluff feathers with a
clothes brush. Rub the comb, face, and wattles with a little
glycerine and rose-water. Sometimes they are oiled to make
them red and bright. The feet and legs should be scrubbed
with a nail-brush. Get all the dirt out very carefully, and
gently pick out any dirt between the toes with a toothpick
(not metal), and then wash the feet again. Give them plenty
of grit, green food, and water, and a little meat.

Houdans' feathers only require to be sponged over and
made wet. A little of Spratt's poultry soap could be put
in the water. The crest, legs, and feet require scrubbing.
The feathers must always be sponged the same way.

When birds are washed it is a good plan to give them
two roup pills, to prevent their catching cold. Birds with
yellow legs should have them soaked and scrubbed with
a nail-brush.

To get cocks' combs in grand order for showing they
should be rubbed for five minutes every day with vaseline
with the thumb and finger, gently removing any loose scab.
The comb will get cherry red, smooth, soft, and perfectly
free from black spots of hard blood caused by fighting,
also scurf. The bird should /«ce the light, or his comb is
likely to ' go over.'

Washing White Fowls for Exhibition

Have a tub large enough for the fowl to stand in, and
in it place some very hot water and dissolve in it some
of Spratt's poultry soap. As soon as the water is cool
enough to be able to put in the hand without scalding
it, take a sponge and sluice the fowl till the feathers
are thorougJdy wet, after which rinse the bird in
slightly blue water. Then take a clean sponge and
sluice with clean lukewarm water, then take a good
bath towel and rub them dry. This should all be done
early in the morning. After the birds are washed they
should be placed in covered baskets (made on purpose)

F 2

68 NEW-LAID EGGS

with clean straw at tlie bottom and placed before the fire,
turning the basket round now and again. The room should
be kept at the same temperature. After the feathers are
dry they should be brushed most carefully and gently with
a fine soft brush. The feet and legs must be carefully
brushed and scrubbed with a nail-brush.

Best Breeds of Poultry

For a good egg-producing variety, Leghorns are about
the best, both Brown and White. The latter lay large
white eggs, the Browns rather small. Minorcas and
Andalusians lay a great number of large white eggs, but
they require drj^ runs, as they are not suited to damp
situations. These are all non-sitters.

For those who prefer brown eggs, some of the sitting
breeds must be kept — Langshans, Orpinglons, A¥yan-
dottes, and Plymouth Rocks, the Orpingtons and Rocks
especially. They are very hardy, capital table birds, and
very good layers.

Light Brahmas are very good layers, and their eggs
very large.

The great thing for those who want a quantity of eggs
is to get their fowls of a 'good laying strain,' and to
endeavour to improve the strain of those they have by
selecting each year the best layers to breed from.

For table birds the Dorking excels all others ; Hou-
dans are also very good. Crevecoeurs and La Fleches are
most delicate and perfect for the table, but are not
suitable for England.

Plymouth Rocks are ve7y good for the table.

Those who breed for the early market should get a
cross between a game cock and Dorking hens.

For egg-farming there is little doubt but that a good
cross greatly increases the egg baskets. The best crosses
are the Leghorn and Plymouth Rock and next the Lang-
shan-Minorca. There is really but little difierence in
the number of eggs laid in twelve months between the

BEST BREEDS OE POULTRY 69

Legliorns, Minorcas, Rocks, and Orpingtons. The Orping-
tons and Legliorns lay most eggs in the winter montha,
especially the former ; but at the end of the twelvemonth
the Minorcas and Rocks are usually very nearly equal to
them.

To Breed fop Eggs only

For the purpose of egg-production only, Leghorns
stand first; of the various sub-breeds. Black, White,
Brown, and Piebald are about alike as regards egg-pro-
duction, if they come of a good laying strain, giving the
preference slightly to the White.

Another necessary thing is to keep the birds up to the
highest standard of selection and careful breeding ; that
is, avoid close breeding, eliminate all sick or weakly birds,
and use only the best and most vigorous productions from
each season's hatching for stock purposes.

If birds run all together, season after season, in-bred
from generation to generation, the stock becomes weak,
they lose their good qualities, and at last come down to
laying a fifth of the eggs produced by the first lot.

The Leghorn egg is supposed to be a smaller egg than
most, but it is not necessarily so ; of course it will not
equal in bulk the egg produced by a fowl twice its
weight, but in proportion to its size the Leghorn, under
proper treatment, will produce eggs that are a very fair
size. Minorcas run Leghorns very close in laying, and
next come Plymouth Rocks. But most poultry-rearers
have their own ideas on the subject, and recommend
other sorts; but still, for those who wish to breed for
eggs only, I can only repeat the advice just offered. I
myself keep Brown and White Leghorns, Rocks, Minorcas,
and crosses from them, and do not wish to change to better
my stock.

Crossing Fowls

In mating the birds, they should be of opposite tenden-
cies, so that the good points of one may counterbalance

70 NEW-LAID EGaS

the failings of the other. The cocks and hens should be
about an equal size, and where a large breed is mated
with a smaller one the hens should be of the larger breed
and the cock of the smaller.

Stock Cock

Should be as near perfection as possible in size, in
colour, in marking, in character of comb, wattles, ear
lobes. In carriage and style he should approach per-
fection; in constitution he should be very strong and
vigorous ; in disposition he should be active, courageous,
high-spirited, gallant and amorous. In breeding he
should be the descendant on both male and female sides
of the best specimens of his variety.

Feptilisation of Eggs

Some poultry-keepers consider that a large number of
eggs are fertilised at one time, but a great writer on
poultr}'^ matters states, that if a hen which has never run
before with a male bird is put into a run with a cock in
the middle of the day, and which has been running with
other hens all the forenoon, he will pay his attention to
her, and if she is put into another run where there is no
male bird and sits on her eggs, only one chicken will be
produced from them. If a hen is put with a cock the
first thing in the morning, or with one which has not been
kept by himself for some time, the first two or three eggs
laid will be fertile ; but put a hen with a cock at night j ust
before he goes to roost, and the result will be that
not a single egg gets fertilised. The best plan is to allow
the cock to run with the hens on alternate days. When
the weather is very cold, the eggs can hardly be expected
to be good, the cold affecting the male portion of the
colony. Generally it will be found that when a hen is in
full lay there are from three to ten of varyiug-sized eggs
in her, and the third one laid will be found to be a fertile

FERTILISATION OF EGGS 71

one. If a hen does not run with a cock at all, and then
is put with one, the first fertile egg may "be laid five days
after, or perhaps it may be a day or two longer.

Breeding Table Fowls

Mate a white-legged Plymouth Eock cock with any
hens, and this will produce a first-rate table fowl. The
Plymouth Rock Brahma is a very good cross. They are
more like young turkeys than chickens if they are kept till
six or seven months old, and then well fattened. To
produce good plump spring chickens, nothing grows faster
than the Houdan and Indian Game ; they are very white in
the flesh and skin, and fatten quickly ; their legs are very
white. Early chickens of this cross can be killed when
twelve weeks old. A Houdan cock should be mated with
an Indian Game hen. Houdan cocks are the best birds
to use for producing good table birds and layers. If
Houdans are crossed with Leghorns or Hamburghs, the
result is very plump little birds for the table.

Hints fop Poultry Keepers

Persons who keep fowls and sift their coal ashes will
not be afflicted with vermin if they sift the ashes into the
fowl run.

Always make the poultry houses as air-tight as possible
before cold weather sets in.

To get good results fowls should be on one side purely
bred. Fresh blood should be introduced every two years,
as in-breeding produces constitutional weakness and
destroys the vigour of the stock, which causes many of the
diseases fowls are liable to.

Keep the fowl houses clean, to save the fowls from bad
air, for the accumulation of droppings is one of the causes
of disease among fowls.

Lack of shade in hot weather, and much exposure to th©
sun, is also a great friend to disease.

72 NEW-LAID EGGS

Ample dust-batlis should be provided in every poultry
house, small or large, for unless the fowls have a way of
cleaning their bodies while confined they will soon get
diseased and lousy ; these should be constantly sprinkled
with carbolic acid. A regular supply of milk-food for hens
has a great tendency to prevent their sitting and keeps
them laying.

Keep a vessel of lime-water and mix with it a small
quantity of soft food. Towards the close of the moulting
season make a number of new nests.

Golden Rules to keep Fowls in Health

(Farm, Field, and Fireside)

Have a comfortable house, properly ventilated, free
from draughts. Keep everything scrupulously clean ;
remove droppings daily, or three times a week at least.
Wash out the feeding and drinking vessels.

A good plan is to fill a sponge with some good dis-
infectant and hang up in the house. Feed well but not
too much. In winter give a little fat, good grain and a
variety of it ; green food of some sort daily, and a little
meat once or twice a week. Avoid vermin. Sprinkle
roosts with kerosene spray, the walls with diluted carbolic
acid, and puff insect powders through the feathers.

Points in Poultry-Reaping

The following are from the report of the Central
Experiment Farm, Ottawa, Canada.

1. Make hens lay when eggs are dearest.

2. Breed stock when eggs are cheap.

3. Keep a non- sitting breed to lay when sitters are
hatching, and pay expenses of the latter.

4. Breed as many chicks as possible and as early as
possible. They all represent so much money.

5. Keep all the pullets.

POINTS IN POULTRY-BEARING 78

6. Kill or otherwise dispose of all hens after three
years of age.

7. Breed the flesh-formers for market. Feed them np
to as great a weight as possible.

8. Well-fattened, well-dressed poultry will bring the
best prices from the best customers.

9. If not accustomed to poultry begin with a small
number. Learn to make a success of the few, then go on
with a larger number.

10. Do not neglect to give lime, gravel, meat, plenty
of clean water, green food, dust bath, &c.

11. Keep strict account of expenditure and receipts.

Combs

By examining a fowl's comb the state of its health can
generally be told.

If the birds are ailing the comb will lose colour and
become less firm in texture.

As the malady increases the colour decreases, till a very
sick bird will show a comb of a livid, dull, pale crimson
colour, or ashy in appearance. Fowls in the height of
health and strength should have blood-red, bright, and full
combs.

The comb of a fowl should be daily consulted. Notice
the comb of a laying hen or pullet, who should carry an
unfailing sign of healthfulness on her head in the shape
of a blood-red, bright, and full comb.

A vigorous cock or cockerel will carry the same sign,
though not perhaps in so eminent a degree as his mate.

Fattening

Comparatively close confinement and cleanliness are
necessary. Fattening should be done quickly. Ten days
to two weeks are ample. Feed three times a day, morning
meal of boiled potatoes and maize meal mixed, at noon
ground oats and boiled rice, and at night whole corn.

74 NEW-LAID EGGS

The fattening coop should be placed away from the other
birds, and should be roomy enough to hold several without
crowding.

To make Hens Sit

Put them in a comfortable nest made in a dark corner.
Next cover the nest with a bit of sacking and give the
hen china eggs in the nest.

When she has sat steadily for some time the real eggs
may be put under her.

Poultpy Hospital

An essential is a hospital for sick fowls, especially in
cases of contagious disease.

The hospital should be made with special reference to
warmth, light, ventilation, and isolation.

It is not necessary it should be large, but it should
have a shelf or cupboard to hold medicines, a good window
for light, and be well ventilated.

Fumigating Fowl Houses

Henry Stewart says : ' As a disinfectant the value of
sulphur is well known. By burning it the sulphur is
oxidised and becomes a poisonous vapour known as sulphu-
rous acid. This acid quickly kills all kinds of germs of all
the contagious diseases of farm animals by exposure to the
fumes of burning sulphur ; and wherever these diseases
have appeared they may be warded off by closing every
crack and cranny and fumigating with sulphur wrapped in
paper moistened with kerosene oil to make it more inflam-
mable, screwing up the paper and lighting one end. The
papers for safety should be put in an iron pot. One ounce
of sulphur will be sufficient to fumigate and disinfect a
small poultry house.

' The buildings should be tightly closed to retain the
fumes. Of course the fowls should all be removed pro tern,'

ORCHARDS AND POULTRY 76

Opchards and Poultry

Poultry slioulcl be kept in orchards where practicable,
as great benefits arise from it. The grass is kept down by
them, weeds are killed ; the growth of the trees becomes
vigorous and the foliage luxuriant, and the fruit abundant
and free from worms and other pests.

Mating

The best results are obtained by using male birds
between the ages of nine and eighteen months.

Male birds should be kept by themselves until they
are nine months old, and after they have been mated, when
it is convenient to do so, an occasional rest will be service-
able.

Making Brooding Hens Lay

Let the hens stay on the nest for a day or two, then
remove them to a coop and place where they can see the
other fowls and all that is going on around them. The
coop should have a few bars of wood at the bottom,
each about an inch wide, and the same distance between
them, so as to prevent the hen sitting. Food and water
should be supplied in small quantities only. In two or
three days the fit of broodiness will pass away.

Broody Fowls, to Check

Put the broody fowls in a coop that has bars at the
bottom, or put them in a hamper, and give them a little
water once a day, and in three days they will have got
over their incubating fever.

Some people hang them in a basket on the branch of
a tree. Some shut them in a barrel with an inch of cold
water at the bottom, which is a cruel plan. I find the best
way is to sliutthem up in the dark with no nests or perches,

76 NEW-LAID EGGS

and only give them a small quantity of food once a day,
witli a quart of clean water, in which put fifteen drops of
aconite. About the third day the hens will be cured.

Gpit

A good supply of flint grit is most necessary, as are
teeth to animals.

A writer in ' Farm, Field, and Fireside ' recommends
breaking up once a week winkle shells, dried bones,
and oyster shells small, and putting them away
in an old meat tin fixed in the yard, and giving not all
at once but two or three times weekly. Grit helps
much to the production of eggs. If it is neglected, it affects
the appetite and plumage as well as the laying powers.

Meat fop Fowls

Save all refuse meat and buy in addition liver, lights,
heart and all, and boil all together for two hours or more.
Then chop finely, and mix with meal in the water in which
it has been boiled.

Apples fop Fowls in Wintep

Sweet apples are very good for fowls, and in winter when
green food is scarce the fruit should be cho]3ped small and
thrown to the fowls to pick up.

Rice fop Fowls

This is a wonderfully quick flesh-forming food, and
good both for chicks and ducklings. It should be well
cooked but not sloppy. One pint of rice to one quart of
water, and let simmer slowly.

How to make Hens Lay

Give rather more than a teaspoonful of olive oil to each
fowl in their food twice a week.

KEEPING EGGS FOE SITTING 77

Keeping Eggs fop Sitting

This depends on circumstances. In very cold weather
a week old is the longest time, and then the eggs must
have been kept where frost could not get to them, as ex-
treme cold kills the germ. In the summer eggs may be
kept with safety for a fortnight ; but, if possible, the freshest
eggs are always best, and produce the finest and strongest
chicks. The best plan to keep them for sitting is to put
the eggs, large end downwards, in a box filled with bran.
They should be as near of an age as possible. Excessively
large or small eggs should never be used, as disappoint-
ment so often ensues unless they are of an average size
and good shapes.

Ppeserving Eggs fop Wintep Use

Mr. Joseph Craven's method : —

Put them into freshly made lime-water, and before
boiling the egg should be pricked with a needle, or it will
crack.

To preserve, say, 1,000 eggs, take thirty-six pounds of
lime in lumps and place in a strong stone vessel, pouring
over the same two gallons of boiling water ; then cover over
with strong sacking, taking care the same does not fire,
and leave in a safe place till quite cold ; then mix well with
cold water (twelve gallons), adding seven pounds of coarse
salt, and pour carefully over the eggs, quite covering them,
leaving out any sediment that may have settled at the
bottom of the pan. This pickle, if rightly made, will frost
over as if covered with very thin ice in a week, and if it
does not happen add more lime till the desired end is
gained. From time to time sprinkle a little fresh slacked
lime over the surface, to keep up the strength of the pickle.
These eggs should not be more than a week old, and must
be perfectly sound.

The recipe I use is to take three gallons of water, one

78 NEW-LAID EGaS

quart of quick lime, half an ounce of cream of tartar, and a
handful of salt. Mix lime-water overnight, to get the lime
thoroughly slacked, then add the other ingredients, and it
is ready for the eggs, which should be put in day after day
as soon after laying as possible. An earthenware pan with
a close-fitting lid is best.

Australian eggs are preserved in the following simple
manner : The vessels in which the eggs are to be placed
are glass jars with patent stoppers, vulcanised indiarubber
joints making them perfectly air-tight. As soon as the
eggs have been collected, the jars are stood in hot water
for some time, and left until the air in them has become
thoroughly warm and rarefied. The jars having been
heated, the eggs are wrapped up in paper to prevent knock-
ing together, and placed in the warm receptacles, their
pointed ends being uppermost. The jars are immediately
closed up, and then, and not until then, are removed from
tlie hot water. It is said that if this process is skilfully
carried out, the eggs will be as fit for the breakfast table
as on the day they were laid many months after they have
been put in the jars. The great secret of success in carry-
ing out this method is, no doubt, to thoroughly heat the air
in the jars. The eggs will stand a better chance of keep-
ing if the paper in which they are packed is previously
baked and used warm. Patent stoppered jars are not
absolutely necessary, any stopper answering which effectu-
ally excludes the air.

Ppeserving Eggs fop Winter

Eggs from hens which run by themselves will keep
much longer than those from hens which run with males.
A fertilised egg will only keep one-third as long as a sterile
one.

Eggs, to Pack

. Wrap each egg separately in fine tissue paper, then tie
a wisp of hay round it. Line a strong wooden box with

EGGS, TO PACK 79

hay, and the eggs should be packed small end downwards
in sawdust or hay. Fill the box well with sawdust and
fasten with screws to avoid hammering. Light circular
baskets, made by Mr. J. Plater, of Bradford Street, Bir-
mingham, are perhaps better than wooden boxes.

Egg-Eating

Try mixing up together some flour, cayenne pepper,
and mustard, filling an egg-shell with it and putting it in
the run. The egg-shell should be as perfect in appearance
as possible.

Feather-Plucking

The only way to care them is to cut the plucker's beak,
removing the sharp horn with a penknife, taking care not to
cut too deep.

Sometimes placing them in a coop by themselves for a
fortnight will cure fowls of this habit. Another plan is
to put the fowls with a hen that has had her feathers cut
short and covered with mustard mixed stiff with vinegar.

Fleas in Poultpy

Use pyrethrum or insect pow^der. The bird should be
held whilst the feathers are parted, and the insect powder
should be dredged in — a little of the powder especially at
the throat, neck, and top of the head.

Watep for Poultpy

Be sure that the water is clean and frequently renewed.
Dirty water is a frequent cause of disease. Germs float in
it, and get transferred to the hen. Water that stands in
the sun becomes a flood of putrescent matter, or alive with
bacilli which it has received from the air.

80 NEW-LAID EGGS

Hens Difficult in Laying

When a lien cannot lay, wet a finger and apply a little
salt to the vent, and she will lay in a few minutes.

Fowls are subject to atmospheric influences, and if
healthy fowls seem suddenly struck with illness that cannot
be explained, a copious meal of bread steeped in ale will
often prove a speedy and effectual remedy.

For adults nothing will restore strength like eggs
boiled hard and chopped fine.

The best way to break up bones is to bake them, then
break them up with a heavy hammer.

Eggs fop Setting

They can be kept from seven to fifteen days, and should
be put into a box with the small end downwards.

Covering Setting Eggs

When a hen is sitting in the months of January, Feb-
ruary, or March, and she leaves her nest for food, it is a
good plan to dip a piece of fiannel in warm water, and
place it on the nest over the eggs. It prevents their
chilling.

Eggs and Feeding

An egg represents a large amount of nutriment of the
most condensed sort, and a hen that lays 150 eggs per
year will need sixteen or seventeen pounds more of nutri-
ment for this purpose alone, than one laying half that
number.

Working Hens and Incubators together

A hen and an incubator may often work together in
perfect harmony.

Get the hens in laying condition early. When they
begin to get broody and want to sit as soon as they become
so on the nest of china eggs, place under each of them
three eggs from the incubator which are due to hatch in

HENS AND INCUBATOES ~ 81

two or three days. Let the eggs hatch under them, and
let them brood the chicks for a fortnight, when, after
cleansing them thoroughly with vermin powder, remove
the chicks to a brooder. Another plan is, on the day's
hatch in the incubator give the broody hens a full comple-
ment of chicks. Sunny days are the best possible
medicine for fowls, the best tonic they can have.

Fowls of Different Ages should be
Fed Differently

In some breeds, as, for instance, the Plymouth Rock, if
a hen over two years old gets very fat, she refuses to lay
an egg, while pullets of one year may be rolling in fat and
will lay daily.

Growing fowls should have a larger allowance of food.
The first crop of clover hay, it is said, cut short and
scalded, comes nearer filling the place of green grass than
any other fodder, and is very nutritious.

It is a bad plan to lay down strict undeviating rules
about many things.

In feeding fowls, one must be governed, says the
' Country Gentleman,' to a great degree by the state of the
weather and its temperature. In cold weather a good
warm breakfast of boiled grain, or equal parts of wheat,
bran, and corn meal, cooked in sweet milk and seasoned
with a pinch of salt, is very much relished by the hens.
When the rain is pouring down, and everything is wet
and sloppy, a panful of dry grain seems to touch the hungry
spot exactly.

Locking up Poultry Houses

Those who have any regard for their poultry will see
the houses are locked up nightly, as a guard against
poultry thieves. A good padlock should be on both roost
and run doors. There is an invention in the shape of an
alarm which produces a report like a rifle, and can be heard

(x

82 NEW-LAID EGGS

at a great distance. It looks like a large lock with a spring
attached to a bolt, which, when in operation, shoots a
one-inch cartridge out of a receptacle previously charged.

The alarm may be attached to a wire or cord, and the
moment it is touched off goes the spring and bang goes
the alarm. For myself I consider there is nothing like a
dog to run loose. A half-bred bulldog or a collie would
be best. A bitch is best ; she cannot be bribed by a scent,
as a dog can, and she is not so likely to stray as a dog.
The dog should be loose. I am told that a thief can easily
quiet a dog, so that he will not bark, but the stuff they
use to make a dog quiet makes a female much fiercer.

D pain age

Good drainage is an important factor towards keeping
fowls in health, and is as necessary as sunlight and venti-
lation. Surface-water should never be allowed to stand
upon the ground where poultry run, for if the premises are
not well drained disease will lurk there.

Fowls minus Feathers, and Feathep-Plucking

Loss of feathers sometimes happens from not having a
sufficient number of hens running with a cock, and that
he is consequently too active, or it may be due to feather-
plucking. If the latter, dip a sponge in paraffin and
apply it to the bare places, which will generally stop it.

Chapcoal

Where birds are kept in confinement a small trough of
fresh charcoal broken in small lumps, placed in a sheltered
spot, is good.

Early in the hatching season a large proportion of the
chicks come cockerels, as usually the cockerels have the
most influence over the union, and then, later in the season,
more pullets are produced ; the cockerels then being weaker
the germs of the eggs are so likewise c

PEAT MOSS ■ 83

Peat Moss

This sliould be put down four inches thick on the floor.
There is nothing so good as this for the floors of
rearers, it being soft and warm for the chickens' feet.

How to Treat Tpoublesome Cocks

The culprit should be shut up in a coop by himself out
of sight of the hens for a fortnight. This generally cures.
If this does not answer, his legs should be tied loosely
with cord about five inches apart, so that he can walk
about, but not quickly.

Neatsfoot Oil

Is an excellent remedy for various poultry diseases, and
every poultry-keeper should keep some in readiness.

It makes an excellent liniment for sores, cuts, or
wounds. A teaspoonful of spirits of turpentine in a gill
of neatsfoot oil is an excellent medicine for roup if a few
drops be injected in each nostril, and is also excellent for
swollen eyes and head when applied externally. It is the
best remedy for scaly legs, and if applied on the heads of
fowls it kills the large lice instantly.

Egg-Eating

Where there is suspicion of eggs being eaten, the only
thing to do is to watch carefully. Where birds only turn
over the eggs and do not eat, watch further, for egg-eaters
begin to eat at once, and clear away all traces of the shell.
A good plan is to lay an egg in the run, and watch, and the
moment any bird begins to eat it, take it away at once,
remove the white, and mix the yolk up very strongly with
mustard and ammonia and replace the egg in the run.
This is generally an effectual cure the first time, though occa-
sionally it may be necessary to repeat the dose with another
egg ; but if eggs are still eaten after, the delinquents must
be killed.

a 2

84 NEW-LAID EGGS

Take a small box, remove the nails, but replace tlie
top, and make an opening for the entrance of the hen
near the top. Make the hole about one foot square.
For laying hens let the nest be low down in the box and
the eggs are safe, as the hen will not have room to do
more than come out, and it will also be rather too dark
for her to commence operations in the way of eating. Her
first impulse will be to jump out and cackle. Do not
have the nest too low down, or she may not get out.
If she begins to want to sit, raise the nest so that
she can walk in on the eggs, and thus avoid breaking
them, as at this time she will remain on the nest, and will
not east her eggs.

Tap

A generous application of tar to all the joints, cracks,
and crevices of the inside of the fowl-houses before white-
washing is a very good thing, as this absorbs or drives
away any taint of disease, and makes the premises whole-
some.

To vermin, lice, &c., the smell of tar is very repulsive,
and but few will remain if the cracks, &c., are all tarred.

Peat Moss Nests

Make the most satisfactory nests, both for laying and
sitting purposes. For a laying hen a properly constructed
peat nest will last twelve months, and even then can be
turned out without a trace of smell or vermin.

It is a good plan to give a greater depth to a sitting
hen. The best way of making them is to spread a thick
layer of finely-sifted ashes from the house grates, mixed
with a little sulphur or any other insect destroyer. Upon
this foundation place several inches of thoroughly broken
up peat moss. For the sitting hen, if it is slightly
damped when made, it keeps its shape as well as a nest of
earth. Should an egg get broken, little or no damage

PEAT MOSS NESTS 85

accrues to the other eggs. The peat acts like a styptic to
a wound ; it absorbs and dries the wetness. Vermin do
not breed in peat.

Remedy for Thin-shelled Eggs

Put a lump of unslaked lime the size of an egg into
about one gallon of drinking water. Break oyster shells
fine, and mix with soft food (giving less stimulating food),
a handful to every dozen fowls, and the same quantity of
pure bone-meal.

If this does not effect a cure, try to check laying for a
time by giving no soft food, and feed sparingly on rice
and potatoes, giving each hen a pill composed of one grain
of calomel and j^^ of a grain of tartar emetic.

To distinguish Old Hens from Pullets

An old hen is generally coarse in head, comb, legs, and
feet ; her legs are generally very rough, and she is less
active in her movements than a pullet.

To Cook Old Fowls

Fowls after the second year are not so profitable for
laying, but still they are nice and tender, either for roast-
ing or boiling, and should be fattened for killing after they
have finished laying, and just before commencing to
moult. In the morning give them scalded barley-meal,
maize, and sharps, and mix the house scraps with it ; at
noon a good feed of green stuff, and before they go to
roost as much maize as they can eat, and if a little skim
milk so much the better. When killed, partly boil them,
and afterwards roast them.

Old Fowls for Invalid Food

Cut up an old fowl into pieces, place it in a jar, cover
it with water, then place the jar containing the fowl in

86 KEW-LAID EaOS

a good-sized saucepan of boiling water ; keep tlie water
boiling ten or twelve hours, so tliat tlie fowl will just be on
tlie simmer the whole time. When done, strain the gravy
from the meat, leave the fat on the top, and do not take it
off till wanted, as the fat preserves the jelly. Spread a
little of the jelly on some thin bread, add a little salt, and
it will be found delicious.

Do not throw away the meat left from the jelly, but get
some ham or lean pork, and mince it up together ; season
to taste. Make some pastry, using the fat off the top, and
it will make a splendid pie.

Fowl Tonic

A good tonic for fowls, favouring the production of
eggs, is :—

Dissolve 1 lb. of sulphate of iron in a gallon of water,
adding 1 oz. of sulphuric acid. Give one teaspoonful of this
mixture to one pint of water twice daily.

Poultpy Vocabulary

Coch^ a male bird over one year old.

Cockerel, a male bird not a year old.

Chicks and Chickens^ newly hatched fowl.

Chicken applies to any age under a year old.

Clutch is applied to the batch of eggs sat upon by the
fowl, and to the brood of chickens hatched therefrom.

Breed^ any variety of fowl presenting distinctive
characteristics.

Brood, the family of chicks belonging to a single
mother.

Broody, a term applied to a fowl that desires to sit.

Strain, a race of fowls that has been carefully bred by
one breeder for a number of years, and has attained an in-
dividuality of its own.

Pullet, a young hen under a year old.

Booster, a term used for a cock or cockerel.

DEBILITATED COCKERELS 87

Cockerels suffering from Debility

Dr. Woodroffe Hill recommends :

Tincture of perchloride of iron two drachms, compound tincture
of gentian two drachms, lime water two ounces, eggs two, cod liver
oil foiu- omices.

Shake thoroughly up mto an emulsion and give two teaspoonfuls
twice a day.

Weight and Yield of Eggs

The following statement shows the weight and yield of
eggs of the different prominent breeds of fowls : —

Light Brahmas and Partridge Gochi7is — eggs, seven to
the pound ; they lay 80 to 200 per annum, or even more,
according to treatment and keeping.

Darh Brahmas, eight to the pound, and about seventy
per annum.

Black', White, and Bajf Cochins, eight to the pound,
100 or less per annum.

Plymouth Rocks, eight to the pound, 100 per annum.

Houdans, eight to the pound, 150 per annum.

La Fleche, seven to the pound, 150 per annum.

Black Spanish, seven to the pound, 150 per annum.

Dominiqiies, nine to the pound, 130 per annum.

Game Foivls, nine to the pound, 130 per annum.

Leghorns, nine to the pound, 150 to 200 per annum.

Hamhurghs, nine to the pound, 175 per annum.

Polish, nine to the pound, 150 per annum.

Bantams, sixteen to the pound, 60 per annum.

Turkeys, five to the pound, 30 to 60 per annum.

Ducks, five to six to the pound, 30 to 60 per annum.

Geese, four to the pound, 20 per annum.

Guinea fowls, eleven to the pound, 60 per annum.

The eggs of the modern improved breeds of fowls have
gained one-third in weight as compared with eggs formerly
laid.

88 NEW-LAID EGGS

To Destroy Rats

( Various Ways)

1 . Melt one pound of lard witli a very gentle lieat in a
glass bottle plunged into warm water ; then add half an
ounce of phosphorus and one pint of proof spirit. Cork the
bottle securely, and as it cools shake it frequently so as to
mix the phosphorus uniformly. When cold, pour off the
spirits and thicken the mixture with flour. Place near
the rat-holes small portions of this mixture, which being
luminous in the dark, attracts them, and is eaten greedily.

2. Mix powdered nux vomica with oatmeal, and lay it
in their haunts, observing proper precaution to prevent
accidents.

3. Mix oatmeal with a little powdered phosphorus.

4. Fix pieces of broken glass in the holes and lay some
along their runs.

It is a good plan to entice and deceive them by first
placing a little bread and butter about their runs when
they come out at night, and after a week mix phosphorus
paste with it, and rats will not give much further trouble,
as they will run to their holes and die.

I read the following description of a rat trap in a
poultry weekly, which perhaps my readers might like to
try : ' A friend of mine was repairing a house previous to
moving into it, and he had been using plaster of Paris to
stop up the cracks in the wall. When he went home one
night, he left the dry plaster on the floor, and some water
near ; and when he returned to work the next morning,
he was surprised to find four large rats dead on the floor,
all being swelled out. They had been eating the plaster
and drinking the water, and the latter had set the plaster
hard in their stomachs and killed them, the material then
forming a very simple poison.'

ON INCUBATOES 89

On Incubatops

Not having tried incubators myself I cannot speak for
them, as I know nothing about them. My poultry -keeping
is not extensive enough to require an incubator, as my
poultry work is a labour of love and pleasure ; but, of
course, where poultry culture is carried on in a large way
for profit, there is no doubt incubators are most necessary
to ensure chickens all the year round, and I can recommend
the series of articles on the Eaising of Poultry and Incuba-
tion by the Vicar of Leonard Stanley, Gloucestershire.
His papers are most interesting and practical. Also in
' Farm, Field, and Fireside,' April 4, 1890, there is a de-
scription of a brooder that I should try were I going in for
incubators.

The Parts that Make up a Fowl

1, crop ; 2, wattle ; 3, beak ; 4, comb ; 5, face ; 6, deaf ear ; 7, ear
lobe; 8, hackle; 10, back; 11, sickle; 12, tail; 13, tail coverts; 14,
saddle ; 15, secondaries ; 16, wing coverts ; 17, fluff ; 18, hock ; 19,
shank or leg; 20, spur; 21, keel or breastbone; 1 to 21, breast or
body ; 22, wing bow or shoulder.

90 KEW-LAID EGGS

Ducklings

Ducklings liave very little need of a motlier except to
brood them at night, except when they are hatched quite
early. When the weather is cool a good-sized hen can care for
as many as^fifteen or twenty. When first hatched it is better
to confine them in a low movable pen, made of boards six
inches wide and any length convenient. These boards
should be nailed across the corners, affording the ducklings
shelter from sudden storms and the sun.

Water in shallow vessels should be plentifully supplied,
covered with close lattice work to keep the ducklings from
getting into and fouling it. A good plan to make sure
the ducklings will be all right in the morning is to place
an empty barrel on its side inside the pen, with a nicely-
fitted and ventilated cover for a door, and the ducklings
closed within ; otherwise one or two may be missing in
the morning. When they are large enough to get through
they will be able to take care of themselves. The enclosure
can be shifted about, so that the ground need not be
fouled. Ducklings will thrive on the coarsest fare, provided
only that it is always fresh and sweet.

A good mixture for them is ground white oats, sifted
three parts, shorts four parts, bran one part, ground oil
meal one part. When using it first mix the ingredients
in a dry state, then take only a sufiicient quantity of the
mixture for one feeding, and after salting it slightly scald
thoroughly with boiling water and when cool enough feed.
It should not be sloppy, but just wet enough to soften and
swell the grains. But for the first fortnight Spratt's food
may be given; occasionally, for a change, scraps of meat
and boiled rice. They should be fed regularly and
frequently. Give plenty of shelter from the sun in hot
weather, as they cannot stand extremes of either heat or
cold.

REABING DUCKLINGS 91

To Reap Ducklings fop Profit

Ducks will pay better than any other kind of poultry,
if properly managed. This includes the entire exclusion
of water to swim in. A yard 25 feet by 100 feet is large
enough for forty ducks, each with a brood ; but there should
be another provided for alternate use. It is best to
rear the broods under hens till they are ten days old,
when each brood should be kept separate in a small pen
bordered by a twelve-inch-wide board. A water-tight
chalet should be enclosed and arranged for the ducklings
to nestle on in the form of a semicircle, having no corners
for the birds to crowd in and smother each other. This is
what one authority writes.

Ducl<s

A lady writes : — ' After April get the ducklings from
seven to eight weeks old. Divide part of the ground into
pens six feet square ; make the pens with wire in front.
Take two bags of cement, and after making a foundation
of fine gravelly stones, mixed with water, and a little
cement well rammed in, leaving a slope from back to front,
cement the bottom of the pens, making a gutter to run
along the front into a drain or tub, which is to admit of
the pens being flushed with water every day. Six pens of
this size will fatten about 100 ducklings from the
second week till they are fit to kill. Never give water to
drink, nor a bath, but all the skim milk possible ; feed
on egg and biscuit food every two hours for the first three
days ; afterwards on bread and milk, barley meal, biscuit
meal, and cooked potatoes. At two or three weeks old,
take the hen from the ducklings, leaving the latter in
twenties. At first feed four times a day, the best thing
with good corn in a pan of milk. Remove all food that is
not eaten in one hour after it has been given. Give them
straw to lie on, and chopped green food daily.'

92 NEW-LAID EGGS

The young ducklings should be fed for the first
fortnight on hard-boiled eggs, coarse oatmeal, and rice
boiled so as to remain in the whole grain, and should have
milk to drink and the food mixed with it. After a
fortnight their food should consist of wheatsharps, corn-
meal, and a small portion of locust bean meal, which is
a first-rate fat-producer. These meals should be mixed
alternately with potatoes or swede turnips, boiled and
mixed with plenty of beef or mutton dripping whilst the
liquor is boiling hot, in order that the meals may be well
mixed. Meals with cold or partially warmed water cause
inflammation and diarrhoea. Cracked Indian corn, varied
with buckwheat and rice, should be given for the last meal.
The great thing in rearing ducklings is feeding them often
and giving them just as much as they can eat quickly.
They should be fed for the first fortnight seven times a day.
When they are a fortnight old until they are six weeks
three meals a day will be enough ; they should be fit for
killing at ten lueeks. Barley is not good for young
ducklings ; it neither fattens nor produces quick growth,
and digests badly. Ducklings should be kept moderately
warm for the first two or three weeks, but not so warm as
ducks. After this they only need to be kept dry and clean.

The bedding should be changed often, so that they
will not rest on damp or cold, and care must be taken to
keep them out of the rain until they are fairly fledged.
In winter ducklings should have warm food the first thing
in the morning — biscuit meal mixed with middlings or
barley meal, and scraps of meat.

For the evening boil the grain three or four times a
week, and a little raw meat should be given occasionally,
such as paunches, &c.

Pekin and Aylesbury ducks are the best pure breeds
to keep. The Pekins do not become broody, while the
Aylesbury do. For all-round qualities a cross between
the two breeds cannot be surpassed. Pekins lay fairly
well, attain a good weight, and do not require any water
except for drinking purposes ; they are better when kept

DUCKS 93

away from a pond or stream. They are good foragers and
refuse hardly any recognised food.

The Pekin duck is of Chinese origin and is com-
paratively new to Europe. For table purposes the Pekin
duck is not so good, as it is smaller, and the flavour not so
good, being rather dry. In shape it differs from other
breeds. It is devoid of keel and the carriage is almost
upright, for the legs are placed far back in the body.
The head is short and thick and the bill strong and stout.
Their colour should be white with a yellow tinge. There
is an under colour that gives the idea of yellow or buff to
the plumage when viewed in certain lights ; the bill deep
orange, the eye black, legs and feet bright orange, and
small in bone. The tail feathers are larger and stronger
than in other breeds.

The Aylesbury Duck

This is pure white in plumage and of the boat shape.
It is the best of all breeds for producing early ducklings,
and from the very first they must be well fed with flesh-
and fat-forming food. For the first few days hard-boiled
eggs, rice, and bread are given, after which barley meal
mixed with grains and toppings. In every pen should be
placed a trough of grit, if possible ; this should be ob-
tained from the Vale of Aylesbury, as it is to this grit
almost all the merits of the Aylesbury duck are attributed.

Muscovy Ducks

These ducks should be crossed with the Aylesbury, as
they make fine large birds of good flavour, as the Muscovy
duck itself is not of a very good flavour, and has a very dark
skin.

Their plumage is black and white in large patches of
colour. The drake is a very large bird, the side of the face
naked, and has a red space round the eye, and on the top
of the beak there is also a red flesh-like substance, and has
no curly feathers in the tail. The duck is very much

94 NEW-LAID EGGS

smaller and of the same colour as the male, but not so
brilliant.

Cayuga Ducks

This is a more scarce breed ; it has a dark green
lustrous plumage.

Mr. Cook says they fatten quicker than any other breed
and lay very fairly, though the eggs are small, the ducks
being themselves small. They are first-rate for eating ; they
are generally crossed with the Rouen, when they attain a
very fair size.

Rouen Ducks

These are similar to the wild mallard ; the beautiful
colours and markings are the same ; the body is longer and
equals in size the Aylesbury duck, though it cannot compete
with it as far as early markets are considered, as the
Rouen matures much slower and makes more frame flesh
at first.

In shape they should be deep and massive, the head
large and rather snaky in appearance, the bill large and
flat, tapering gradually, and almost in a line with the top
of the skull ; the neck gracefully carried, back broad and
well arched, keel as deep as possible and very even, as deep in
front as behind. The Rouen drake has lustrous green
plumage on head and neck, the lower part of the latter
having a distinct white ring, but not quite uniting at the
back. The breast is dark and purplish brown and green.
The duck is brown pencilled with blacker brown, the
wings having bars of purple edged with white. Both
sexes generally breed true to colour.

Geese

They may be very profitable if properly managed, and
one advantage in keeping them is, they are capital
property protectors, as being very quick of hearing, and if

GEESE 95

they hear the slightest noise at uight they make a terrific
cackling. They are as great enemies to burglars as a dog,
baby, or night light. About three geese should be allowed
to one gander if he is an average bird, though some
ganders may be allowed four or five.

Goslings are very little trouble and easily reared, and
should be fed for the first month on scalded biscuit meal,
with whole groats and small wheat put into the drinking
water.

The old gander should never run with the goslings, as
he pays more attention to them than to his hens.

Italian Geese

Are principally white with a grey head ; they are small,
broad and compact and very hardy, and wonderful layers.
Their colouring is as Mr. Cook describes, much the same
as a silky hair between feather and down.

Embden Geese

The pure Embden goose is entirely a white bird,
having a flesh-coloured bill, with bright orange legs and
feet. They are very good mothers, but not the best
layers, and are very good table birds. It is recommended
for market purposes to cross them with Toulouse geese.
Toulouse geese are larger birds, and the young from the
cross are larger than their Embden parents, and the meat
of better quality.

Toulouse OP Gpey Geese

These are easily reared, and a very large breed : square-
legged and squarely built, very compact in form, the lower
parts of the old birds nearly touching the ground as they
walk. Their heads are large, their necks upright and thick,
and they have remarkably deep bodies. Their plumage is
grey, with the under purts a dirty white. The head and back

96 NEW-LAID EGGS

part of neck are dark grey, also wing qaills ; the breast
is lighter, bill a dark orange, legs bright orange.

A pure Embden gander is the best white breed, and
crosses well with the Italian goose. They eat splendidly
and are ready for table at twelve weeks old.

Fattening of Geese

The fattening of geese should not extend over a longer
period than three weeks, as if kept longer they begin to
lose flesh again. Six weeks before they are required they
should be shut up in lots of about ten or twelve in a
darkened house, and fed scantily with their usual food.
At first, let them have plenty of water in a trough
small enough to prevent their getting into it. Cover the
floor with straw, and put some rough sand and gravel in
a corner. They should be fed twice daily with soft food
consisting of boiled barley and dry oatmeal, rice boiled
in milk, and now and then boiled potatoes mixed with
middlings. Cabbages may be given, and during the last
fortnight scalded maize mixed with middlings is a capital
food.

Turkeys

At the end of April and beginning of May turkey
chickens will be making their appearance.

Young turkeys require immense care. Extremes of
heat and cold must be strenuously avoided, as well as
damp. Coops for the mothers should be made light and
large, about four feet square, the roof sloping towards the
back and projecting some two inches beyond the coop
itself, which prevents the rain falling into the coop and
keeps the ground dry round it. The coop should be
eighteen inches high at the back, and the front of
it should consist of staves about two inches wide,
hollowed out about four inches from the ground, so as to
afford a wider space for the chicks to go in and out. The

TUEKEYS 97

turkey and lier young should be placed in this as soon as
they are ready to leave the nest. A well-known writer
on poultry says : ' The chicks should never be removed
from the turkey during hatching. Turkey chicks are
stupid little creatures at first, and seem to know nothing
about eating, nor are they apt pupils. The simplest plan
is to set a couple of hen's eggs when the turkey has
been sitting a week ; the chick will then hatch out at the
same time as the turkeys, and teach the latter how to eat
without any trouble.' Place the coop on jperfectly dry
ground. For the first week they should be fed on hard-
boiled eggs mixed with some minced dandelion leaves ;
and where dandelions cannot be procured, use chopped
onions or nettles. Feed every three hours the first week,
and filtered water should be given at the same time. At
a week old breadcrumbs and barley meal can be gradually
added, and at the end of three weeks the e^g can be
left off. Later, give wheat or buckwheat, but avoid new
corn. After a month or six weeks they will eat any-
thing. Boiled potatoes are good for them, also sun-
flower seeds are excellent. The food should be given
in the morning as warm as they can eat it. The hen
should be confined in the coop for a month at least, after
which she may be let out for a couple of hours daily.
Keep all grass in the immediate neighbourhood of the
coop cut short, for long wet grass will create much mis-
chief, as if roup breaks out it is not easily got rid of.
The chicks should be always kept under shelter during
keen biting winds and strong sunshine. They begin to
^ shoot the red ' at two months old, and then a few weeks
later this is accomplished, the rearing process is over, and
the young turkeys will stand any weather without fear of
consequences.

Turkeys require great care and attention at the time of
' shooting the red,' but after that time they are really very
hardy birds, and will roost out in most inclement weather.

Turkeys require a great deal of sharp grit, and if the
soil is chalky plenty of sand must be provided and

H

08 NEW-LAID EGGS

scattered about on the rearing ground. All young
turkey chicks must be protected from rain and wind, a
slight shower or much wind proving often fatal to them.
Mr. Willis Harris, the great authority on turkey-rearing,
says that the chicks having very SDiall crops, they must
be fed every two or three hours from sunrise to sunset.

Their first meal after being hatched should consist of
raw eggs beaten up with milk, boiled to a custard, or the
eggs boiled hard and ]3ressed through a wire sieve. This
should be their first week's food, and then dandelion mixed
up with the egg and boiled with biscuit meal should be
their food for another fortnight. After three weeks the
egg food can be left oflf, and the five meals a day consist
of oatmeal porridge for the first, biscuit meal for the
second, maize cooked the same as hominy for the third,
boiled rice for the fourth, and for the fifth small grain,
such as dari groats, canary millet, and hemp seed. As
the birds grow older, the number of* feeds may be les-
sened, ground oats, middlings, wheat, and barley sub-
stituted for the smaller grain. Dandelion, mustard,
lettuce, and young nettles should be plentifully given.
Spratt's crissel, bullock's liver, boiled or raw, passed
through a mincing machine. A supply of animal food in
abundance is necessary when the birds are young. If
fed on soft food for the first three weeks they require no
water. Until the poults are three months old they should
not perch, but be kept bedded down upon straw, and when
first allowed to roost, the perches, which should be flat and
about six inches wide, should be covered with a piece of
old sacking stuffed with straw, to prevent the heavy
cockerels having crooked breasts. To fatten them they
should be allowed full liberty and fed three times a day,
the gobblers being separated from the pullets. Turkeys
always require plenty of fresh pure air, water fresh and
clean, and kept in the shade and renewed several times
daily.

YOUNG TUEKEYS 99

Young Turkeys

Kemove tlie broody hen from off her old nest ; at dusk
place her within an enclosure with a nestful of tempting-
looking eggs in sight. Once a day after this she should
be gently lifted from her nest and put out for a. short
run to procure food and drink, the door of the house
being closed at other times to guard against intrusion.
The nest is best made on the ground, a place the requisite
size being hollowed out and lined with a handful of
grass.

Young turkeys are so tender and easily crushed, that
it is a good plan to remove them from the nest when a few
hours old, and keep them in a basket lined with flannel.
On the second day they might have an occasional airing
and be offered something to eat. Their food should be hard-
boiled eggs chopped finely, biscuit meal, scalded groats
and middlings, with sharp grit. Fresh onion tops chopped
fine should be given whilst the poults are small, but after
they can run about they prefer tender blades of grass and
the leaves of the white clover. When three days old the
poults should be put with their mother in a large roomy
coop on the short grass. When four days old, if the
weather is clear and bright, the mother with her brood should
be let out for a short run. When they are a fortnight old
they may be let out in the morning after the dew has
dried and allowed to remain out all day, taking care to
house them on the approach of a shower. Till a fortnight
old they should be fed five times a day, after which three
times will be sufficient. Sweet milk should be given in a
shallow pan once a day ; after a fortnight they may be fed
on small grain.

A turkey cock should not be allowed to live more than
two years, at which age he should be fattened for the
table. One cock should run with six hens. Hen turkeys
are very shy at the times of laying and sitting, and should
therefore have their nests placed in retired places and
never disturbed. The cock must not be allowed to go near

100 NEAV-LAID EGGS

at these times, as lie would drive her from her nest and
destroy the eggs. The hen will sit on from nine to
fifteen eggs, according to her size. They sit for twenty-
eight days ; if they seem weak and drooping two or three
mustard seeds may be given in the course of the day.

To Fatten Turkeys

They should be put into large sheds, which should be
rather dark, but they must be fed in the light. They
should have plenty of ventilation and kept fairly warm,
the house bedded down with moss peat or short straw,
and their perches should be about two feet from the
floor.

They should be fed on ground oats and barley meal
with potatoes boiled and mixed in. The last fortnight
they should have good fat pot-liquor. A little of Cook's
Fattening Powder mixed in helps them very much. They
do not require any water. They should always be killed
after being cooped up about a fortnight, as they will suffer
in health and get out of condition.

Hen turkeys fatten more quickly than cocks.

The Cambridge Speckled Turkeys are the best birds to
keep.

When turkeys are required only for table purposes,
it is best to cross the Cambridge Bronze with the Black
Norfolk.

There are several varieties of the turkey species. The
Norfolk black breed were formerly the most esteemed, but
recently they have been crossed with the large Virginian
turkey, and a valuable mixed breed has been the result.

One of the chief conditions of successful turkey-breeding
is a light soil ; a clayey one is very bad for them.

Turkeys are subject to a kind of distemper or sick-
ness during their infancy, but if the soil is suitable, their
house dry and warm, their feeding good, and they are
kept in good health till they shoot the red, they will do
well.

TO FATTEN TUEKEYS 101

The French people fatten their turkeys by giving
them boluses of meal, such as barley meal, oatmeal, or
buckwheat meal ; commencing with two or three daily,
and increasing the quantity in the course of time, as
many are given as the bird can manage to take.

ADDENDA

I ALWAYS use a safety cliicken coop and run till the
chicks are a month old, when they are removed to a
larger run. It is made with shutter, for shade and shelter
during the day, and for closing at night. A piece of gal-
vanised chain is attached to the shutter, so that the coop
may be shaded to any degree. A sliding rod is provided,
to admit of the hen being let into the run, if required,
and it is made to take to pieces ; it is cat- and rat-proof.
Langham and Co., King's Lynn, are the makers.

A nest and sitting-box is much to be recommended
with the box fitted with a wire bottom, so that it may be
moved without disturbing the hen, at the same time re-
moving the moisture from the ground, and prevents rats
burrowing into the nest.

It can be procured at Spratt's, Bermondsey.

INDEX

Peeface, V

Addenda, 102

Beeedtng for eggs only, tj9
Breeds of fowls, 18, 68
Broody fowls, to check, 75

Chickens, care of, 15

Cleanliness, 7
Cocks, troublesome, 83
Combs, 73
Coops, feeding, 16
Crossing fowls, 69

Diseases of poultry, 45 et seq.

Drainage, 82

Ducks and ducklings, 90 et aeq.

Egg-eating, 79, 83
Eggs for setting, 80

— to pack, 78

— to preserve, 77, 78

Fattening, 73
Feather-plucking, 81
Fertilisation of eggs, 70
Fowls, description of, 21 et seq.

— feeding, 8, 80

— for market, 63

— in autumn, 19

— laying in winter, 17

— old, to cook, 85

— parts of, 89

— table, 73

— tonic, 86

— vocubulary, 86

— young, to rear, 14

Geese, 94 et seq.
Grit, 76

Hatching, 12

— nescs, vide Addenda
Hens, to make lay, 76
sit, 74

Hints to poultry-keepers, 71 et seq.

INCUBATOES, 89

Killing and dressing- fowls, 64,
65

Mating, 75
Moulting, ] 6

Notes, various, 17

Peat moss, 84, 85

Poultry, hints on keeping, 74

— hospital, 74

— houses, 2

— raising, 1

Preparing fowls for exhibition, 66

Rats, to destroy, 88

Sittees, care of, 11
Stock cocks, 70

TUEKEYS, 96 et seq.

Washing fowls for exhibition, 67
Weights of eg^^, 87

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12 A CATALOGUE OF BOOKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE

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KAMT (Immanuel).— CRITIQUE OF PRACTICAL REASON, AND
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14 A CATALOGUE OF BOOKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE

MACAULAY (Lord).— ESSAYS [continued).

CRITICAL AND HISTORICAL ESSAYS.

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Ranke and Gladstone.

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Lord Bacon.

Lord Clive.

Lord Byron, and the Comic Dram«i-

tists of the Restoration.

Addison and Walpole.
Frederic the Great.
Groker's BoswelFs Johnson.
Hallam's Constitutional History,
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MACDOlSTAIiD (George).— UNSPOKEN SERMONS. Three Series.

Crown 8vo. 3.^. bd. each.

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MACKAIIi (J. W.).— SELECT EPIGRAMS FROM THE GREEK AN-
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MACLEOD (Henry D.).— THE ELEMENTS OF BANKING. Crown

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McCUIiliOCH (J. R.)-— THE DICTIONARY OF COMMERCE and Com-
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MACVINE (John).— SIXTY-THREE YEARS' ANGLING, from the Moun-
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MALMESBURY (The Earl of).— MEMOIRS OF AN EX-MINISTER.
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MANUALS OF CATHOLIC PHILOSOPHY {Stonyhurst Series).

Logic. By Richard F. Clarke. Crown

8vo. 5J.
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John Rickaby. Crown 8vo. 5^'.
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General Metaphysics. By John Ricka-
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Boedder. Crown 8vo. bs. bd.
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MARTINEAU (James).— HOURS OF THOUGHT ON SACRED
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ENDEAVOURS AFTER THE CHRISTIAN LIFE. Discourses.

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HOME PRAYERS. Crown 8vo. 3^-. bd.

THE SEAT OF AUTHORITY IN RELIGION. 8vo. 145.

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each.

I. Personal: Political. I III. Theological: Philosophical.

II. Ecclesiastical: Historical. | IV. Academical: Religious.

MASON (Agnes).— THE STEPS OF THE SUN : Daily Readings of Prose.

i6mo. y. bd.
MATTHEWS (Brander).-A FAM ILY TREE, and other Stories. Crown

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PEN AND INK— Selected Papers. Crown 8vo. ^s.

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The Treasury of Bible Knowledge. By

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Biographical Treasury.

Treasury of Natural History. With

900 Woodcuts.
Treasury of Geography. With 7 Maps

and 16 Plates.
Scientific and Literary Treasury.
Historical Treasury.
Treasury of Knowledge.

MAX MULLER (F.).-SELECTED ESSAYS ON LANGUAGE,
MYTHOLOGY, AND RELIGION. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. xbs.

THREE LECTURES ON THE SCIENCE OF LANGUAGE. Cr.

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\Co!itimied.

i6 A CATALOGUE OF BOOKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE

MAX MtTLIiEB, (F.)— INTRODUCTION TO THE SCIENCE OF RE-
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NATURAL RELIGION. The Gifford Lectures, delivered before the

University of Glasgow^ in 1888. Crown 8vo. xos. 6d.

PHYSICAL RELIGION. The Gifford Lectures, delivered before the

University of Glasgow in 1890. Crown 8vo. los. 6d.

ANTHROPOLOGICAL RELIGION : The Gifford Lectures delivered

before the University of Glasgow in 1891. Crown Bvo. los. 6d.

THE SCIENCE OF THOUGHT. Bvo. zxs.

THREE INTRODUCTORY LECTURES ON THE SCIENCE OF

THOUGHT. Bvo. 2s. 6d

BIOGRAPHIES OF WORDS, AND THE HOME OF THE ARYAS.

Crown 8vo. js. 6d.

A SANSKRIT GRAMMAR FOR BEGINNERS. New and Abridged

Edition. By A. A. MacDonell. Crown Bvo. 6s.

MAY (Sir Thomas Erskine).— THE CONSTITUTIONAL HISTORY
OF ENGLAND since the Accession of George III. 3 vols. Crown Bvo. i8s.

MEADE (Ij. T.) — the O'DONNELLS OF INCHFAWN. Crown Bvo. 6s.

DADDY'S BOY. With Illustrations. Crown Bvo. 3^. 6d.

DEB AND THE DUCHESS. Illust. by M. E. Edwards. Cr. Bvo. 3^. 6d.

THE BERESFORD PRIZE. Illustrated by M. E. Edwards. Cr. Bvo. 5^.

MEATH (The Earl of).— SOCIAL ARROWS: Reprinted Articles on
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PROSPERITY OR PAUPERISM ? Physical, Industrial, and Technical

Training. Edited by the Earl of Meath. Bvo. 5J.

MELVILLE (G. J. Whyte).— Novels by. Crown Bvo. is. each, boards ;
IS. 6d. each, cloth.

The Gladiators.
The Interpreter.
Good for Nothing.

The Queen's Maries.
Holmby House.
Kate Coventry.

Digby Grand.
General Bounce.

MENDELSSOHK".— THE LETTERS OF FELIX MENDELSSOHN.
Translated by Lady Wallace. 2 vols. Crown Bvo. los.

MERIVALE (Bev. Chas.).— HISTORY OF THE ROMANS UNDER
THE EMPIRE. Cabinet Edition, 8 vols. Crown Bvo. 48s. Popular Edition,
B vols. Crown 8vo. y. 6d. each.

THE FALL OF THE ROMAN REPUBLIC : a Short History of the

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GENERAL HISTORY OF ROME FROM B.C. 753 TO A.D. 476

Cr. Bvo. 7^. 6d.
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MILES (W. A.).— THE CORRESPONDENCE OF WILLIAM AUGUSTUS
MILES ON THE FRENCH REVOLUTION, 17B9-1B17. 2 vols. Bvo. 32^.

MILL (James).— ANALYSIS OF THE PHENOMENA OF THE HUxMAN
MIND. 2 vols. Bvo. 2Bj.

PUBLISHED BY MESSRS. LONGMANS, GREEN, ^ CO. 17

MILL (John Stuart).— PRINCIPLES OF POLITICAL ECONOMY.
Library Edition, 2 vols. 8vo. 30J-. | People's Edition, i vol. Crown 8vo.3j.6d.''.

A SYSTEM OF LOGIC. Crown Svo. y. 6d.

ON LIBERTY. Crown Svo. is. 4^.

ON REPRESENTATIVE GOVERNMENT. Crown Svo. 2s.

UTILITARIANISM. Svo. 5^.

EXAMINATION OF SIR WILLIAM HAMILTON'S PHILO-
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NATURE, THE UTILITY OF RELIGION AND THEISM. Three

Essays, Svo. 5^.

MOLESWORTH (Mrs.).— MARRYING AND GIVING IN MARRIAGE
a Novel. Fcp. Svo. zs. 6d.

SILVERTHORNS. With Illustrations by F. Noel Paton. Cr. Svo. 55.

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THE THIRD MISS ST. QUENTIN. Crown Svo. 6s.

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MOORE (Edward).— DANTE AND HIS EARLY BIOGRAPHERS

Crown Svo. 4-!-. 6d.

MULHALL (Michael G.).— HISTORY OF PRICES SINCE THE YEAR
I 1850. Crown Svo. 65. •

ISTAWSElSr (Dr. Pridtjof ).— THE FIRST CROSSING OF GREENLAND.
With 5 Maps, 12 Plates, and 150 Illustrations in the Text. 2 vols. Svo. 36J.

WAPIEE,.— THE LIFE OF SIR JOSEPH NAPIER, BART., EX-LORD
CHANCELLOR OF IRELAND. By Alex. Charles Ewald. Svo. 155.

THE LECTURES, ESSAYS, AND LETTERS OF THE RIGHT

HON. SIR JOSEPH NAPIER, BART. Svo. i2J. 6d.

NESBIT (E.).— LEAVES OF LIFE : Verses. Crown Svo. 5J.

NEWMAW.— THE LETTERS AND CORRESPONDENCE OF JOHN
HENRY NEWMAN during his Life in the English Church. With a brief
Autobiographical Memoir. Edited by Anne Mozley. With Portraits, 2 vols.
Svo. 30J. net.

NEWMAN (Cardinal).— Works by :

Discourses to Mixed Congregations.

Cabinet Edition, Crown Svo. 6s.

Cheap Edition, y. 6d.
Sermons on Various Occasions. Cr.

Svo. 6j-.
The Idea of a University defined and

illustrated. Cabinet Edition, Cr. Svo.

js. Cheap Edition, Cr. Svo. y. 6d.
Historical Sketches. Cabinet Edition,

3 vols. Crown Svo. 6^. each. Cheap

Edition, 3 vols. Cr. Svo. 35. 6d. each.

The Arians of the Fourth Century.

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Cheap Edition, Crown Svo. 35. 6d.
Select Treatises of St. Athanasius in

Controversy with the Arians. Freely

Translated. 2 vols. Crown Svo.

155.
Discussions and Arguments onVarious

Subjects. Cabinet Edition, Crown

Svo. 6s. Cheap Edition, Crown

Svo. 3f. 6d.

\Conti?iued.

i8 A CATALOGUE OF BOOKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE

IS'EWIKA'N (Cardinal).— "Works ht :— {continued).

Tracts, i. Dissertatiunculae. 2, On
the Text of the Seven Epistles of St.
Ignatius, 3. Doctrinal Causes of
Arianism. 4. ApoUinarianism. 5.
St. Cyril's Formula. 6. Ordo de
Tempore. 7. Douay Version of
Scripture. Crown 8vo. 8j.

An Essay in Aid of a Grammar of

Assent. Cabinet Edition, Crown
8vo. js. 6d. Cheap Edition, Crown
8vo. y. 6d.

Callista : a Tale of the Third Century.
Cabinet Edition, Crown 8vo. 6s.
Cheap Edition, Crown 8vo. y. 6d.

Loss and Gain: a Tale. Cabinet
Edition, Crown 8vo. 6s. Cheap
Edition, Crown 8vo. y. 6d.

The Dream of Gerontius. i6mo. 6d.
sewed, u. cloth.

Yerses on Yarious Occasions. Cabinet
Edition, Crown 8vo. 6s. Cheap
Edition, Crown 8vo. 3J. 6d.

Apologia Pro Yita Sua. Cabinet Ed. ,

Crown 8vo. 6s. Cheap Ed. 3^. 6d.
Development of Christian Doctrine.

Cabinet Edition, Crown Bvo. 6s.

Cheap Edition, Cr. 8vo. y. 6d.
Certain Difficulties felt by Anglicans

in Catholic Teaching Considered.

Cabinet Edition. Vol. I. Crown 8vo.

js. 6d. ; Vol. II. Crown 8vo. 55. 6d.

Cheap Edition, 2 vols. Crown 8vo.

35-. 6d. each.
The Yia Media of the Anglican Church,

Illustrated in Lectures, &c. Cabinet

Edition, 2 vols. Cr. 8vo. 6s. each.

Cheap Edition, 2 vols. Crown 8vo.

3^-. 6d. each.
Essays, Critical and Historical. Cabi-
net Edition, 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 12J.

Cheap Edition, 2 vols. Cr. 8vo. is.
Biblical and Ecclesiastical I iracles.

Cabinet Edition, Crown 'S>'^o. 6s.

Cheap Edition, Crown 8vo. 35. 6d.
Present Position of Catholics in Eng-
land. Cabinet Edition, Crown 8vo.

75. 6d. Cheap Edition, Crown 8vo.

35. 6d.

*J^ For Cardinal Newmans other Works see Messrs. Longmans df Co.'s
Catalogue of Theological Works.

IfORTON (Charles L.).— POLITICAL AMERICANISMS : a Glossary of

Terms and Phrases Current in American Politics. Crown 8vo. 2j. 6d.
A HANDBOOK OF FLORIDA. 49 Maps and Plans. Fcp. 8vo. 55.

NORTHCOTB (W. H.).— LATHES AND TURNING, Simple, Me-
chanical, and Ornamental. With 338 Illustrations. Bvo. i8j.

O'BRISlSr (William).— Vv^H EN WE WERE BOYS: A Novel. Cr. 8vo.
2j. 6d.

OLIPHAISTT (Mrs.).— MADAM. Crown 8vo, \s. boards ; \s. 6d. cloth.
IN TRUST. Crown 8vo. \s. boards ; xs. 6d. cloth.

OMAK" (C. W. C.).— A HISTORY OF GREECE FROM THE EARLIEST
TIMES TO THE MACEDONIAN CONQUEST. WithMaps. Cr. Bvo. 4^. 6^^.

O'REILLY (Mrs.).— HURSTLEIGH DENE : a Tale. Crown Bvo. 5^.

PAUL (Hermann).— PRINCIPLES OF THE HISTORY OF LANGUAGE.
Translated by H. A. Strong. 8vo. \os. 6d.

PAYK" (James).— THE LUCK OF THE DARRELLS. Cr. Bvo. t.s. bds. ;

15. 6d. cl.
THICKER THAN WATER. Crown Bvo. u. boards ; is. 6d. cloth.

PERRING (Sir Philip).— HARD KNOTS IN SHAKESPEARE. ^vo.js.6d.
THE ' WORKS AND DAYS ' OF MOSES. Crown Bvo. 35. 6d.

PUBLISHED BY MESSRS. LONGMANS, GREEN, &- CO.

19

PHILIjIPPS-WOIjLEY (C.).— snap : a Legend of the Lone Mountain.
With 13 Illustrations by H. G. Willink. Crown 8vo. 3^. 6d.

POLE (W.).— THE THEORY OF THE MODERN SCIENTIFIC GAME
OF WHIST. Fcp. 8vo. 2s. 6d.

POLLOCK (W. H. and Lady).— THE SEAL OF FATE.

Cr. 8vo. 6s

Fcp.

POOLE (W. H. and Mrs.) —COOKERY FOR THE DIABETIC
Svo. 2J-. 6d.

PRAEGEE, (P.).— WAGNER AS I KNEW HIM. Crown Svo. 7s. 6d.

PIlE]S"DERGi-AST (JohnP.).— IRELAND, FROM THE RESTORATION
TO THE REVOLUTION, 1660-1690. Svo. 5^.

PROCTOR (R.A.).— Works by :-

Old and New Astronomy. 12 Parts,

2S. 6d. each. Supplementary Sec-
tion, ^s. Complete in i vol. 4to. 365-.
[^In course 0/ publication.
The Orbs Around Us. Crown Svo. 5.^.
Other Worlds than Ours. With 14

Illustrations. Crown Svo. y.
The Moon. Crown Svo. 5^-.
Universe of Stars. Svo. io.y. 6d.
Larger Star Atlas for the Library, in

12 Circular Maps, with Introduction

and 2 Index Pages, Folio, 15J. or

Maps oixly, 12s. 6d.
The Student's Atlas. In 12 Circular

Maps. Svo. 5^.
New Star Atlas. In 12 Circular Maps.

Crown Svo. $s.
Light Science for Leisure Hours.

3 vols. Crown Svo. i,s. each.
Chance and Luck. Crown Svo. 2s.

boards ; 2s. 6d. cloth.
Pleasant Ways in Science. Cr. Svo. 55.
How to Play Whist : with the Laws and

Etiquette of Whist. Crown Svo. 2,s.6d.
Home Whist : an Easy Guide to

Correct Play. i6mo. xs.

The Stars in their Season. 12 Maps. _

Royal Svo. 5^.
Star Primer. Showing the Starry Sky

Week by Week, in 24 Hourly Maps.

Crown 4to. 2s. 6d.
The Seasons Pictured in 48 Sun-Yiews

of the Earth, and 2i Zodiacal Maps,

&c. Demy 4to. 5^'.
Strength and Happiness. With 9

Illustrations. Crown Svo. c^s.
Strength: How to get Strong and

keep Strong. Crown Svo. 2s.
Rough Ways Made Smooth. Essays on

Scientific Subjects. Crown Svo. $s.
Our Place among Infinities. Cr. Svo. y.
The Expanse of Keaven. Cr. Svo. 5J.
The Great Pyramid. Crown Svo. 5^-.
Myths and Marvels of Astronomy

Crown Svo. 5^-.
Nature Studies. By Grant Allen, A.

Wilson, T. Foster, E. Clodd, and

R. A. Proctor. Crown Svo. 5^-.
Leisure Readings. By E. Clodd, A.

Wilson, T. Foster, A. C. Ranyard,

and R. A. Proctor, Crown Svo. 5^-.

PRYCE (John).— THE ANCIENT BRITISH CHURCH: an Historical
Essay. Crown Svo. 6s.

RANSOME (Cyril).— THE RISE OF CONSTITUTIONAL GOVERN-
MENT IN ENGLAND : being a Series of Twenty Lectures. Crown Svo. 6s.

'RA'W'LiTN^O'N (Canon Or ).— THE HISTORY OF PHCENICIA. Svo. 245.

REPLY (A) TO DR. LIGHTFOOT'S ESSAYS. By the Author of * Super-
natural Religion '. Svo. 6^.

RIBOT (Th.).— THE PSYCHOLOGY OF ATTENTION, Crown Svo, 3s.

RICH (A.).— A DICTIONARY OF ROMAN AND GREEK ANTIQUITIES.
With 2000 Woodcuts. Crown Svo. js. 6d.

20 A CATALOGUE OF BOOKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE

E,ICHAE,DSOD3" (Dr. B. '77.).— NATIONAL HEALTH. A Review of
the Works of Sir Edwin Chad wick, K.C. B. Crown 4^. 6d.

RIVERS (T. and T. P.).— THE MINIATURE FRUIT GARDEN ; or,
The Culture of Pyramidal and Bush Fruit Trees. With 32 Illustrations.
Crown 8vo. 4J.

RIVERS (T.).— THE ROSE AMATEUR'S GUIDE. Fcp. 8vo. 4J. 6d.

ROBERTS (Alexander).— GREEK THE LANGUAGE OF CHRIST
AND HIS APOSTLES. 8vo. i8j.

ROCKHILL (W. W.).— THE LAND OF THE LAMAS : Notes of a
Journey through China, Mongolia, and Tibet. With Maps and Illustrations.
8vo. 1 5 J.

ROaET (John Lewis).— A HISTORY OF THE 'OLD WATER
COLOUR ' SOCIETY. 2 vols. Royal 8vo. 42J.

ROGET (Peter M.).— THESAURUS OF ENGLISH WORDS AND
PHRASES. Crown 8vo. 10s. td.

ROIsTALDS (Alfred).— THE FLY-FISHER'S ETYMOLOGY. With 20
Coloured Plates. 8vo. 14J,

ROSSBTTI (Maria Franeesca).— A SHADOW OF DANTE : being an
Essay towards studying Himself, his World, and his Pilgrimage. Cr. 8vo. \os. 6d.

RUSSELL.— A LIFE OF LORD JOHN RUSSELL. By Spencer Walpole.
2 vols. 8vo, 36^. Cabinet Edition, 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 125.

SEEBOHM (Frederick). — THE OXFORD REFORMERS — JOHN
COLET, ERASMUS, AND THOMAS MORE. 8vo. 145.

THE ENGLISH VILLAGE COMMUNITY Examined in its Re-
lations to the Manorial and Tribal Systems, &c. 13 Maps and Plates. 8vo. i6j.

THE ERA OF THE PROTESTANT REVOLUTION. With Map.

Fcp. 8vo. 2S. 6d.

SEWELL (Elizabeth M.).— STORIES AND TALES. Crown 8vo. is. 6d.
each, cloth plain ; 2s. 6d. each, cloth extra, gilt edges : —

Katharine Ashton. Gertrude.

Margaret Percival. Ivors.

Laneton Parsonage. Home Life.

Ursula. After Life.

Amy Herbert.
The Earl's Daughter.
The Experience of Life.
A Glimpse of the World.
CleYe Hall.

SHAKESPEARE.— BO WDLER'S FAMILY SHAKESPEARE, i vol. 8vo.

With 36 Woodcuts, 14J., or in 6 vols. Fcp. 8vo. 2.1s.
OUTLINES OF THE LIFE OF SHAKESPEARE. By J. O.

Halliv^ell-Phillipps. With Illustrations. 2 vols. Royal 8vo. ^i is.

SHAKESPEARE'S TRUE LIFE. By James Walter. With 500

Illustrations. Imp. 8vo. 21J.

THE SHAKESPEARE BIRTHDAY BOOK. By Mary F. Dunbar.

32mo. xs. 6d. cloth. With Photographs, 32mo. 55. Drawing -Room Edition,
with Photographs, Fcp. 8vo. ioj. 6d.

SHORT (T. V.).— SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF THE CHURCH OF

ENGLAND to the Revolution of 16S8. Crown 8vo. js. 6d.

PUBLISHED BY MESSRS. LONGMANS, GREEN, &f CO. 21

SILVEH lilBRARY, Tlie.— Crown 8vo. price 3s. 6d. each volume.

BAKER'S (Sir S. W.) Ei^ht Years in

Ceyion. With 6 Illustrations.
Rifle and Hound in Ceylon.

With 6 Illustrations.
BARING-GOULD'S (S.) Curious Myths

of the Middle Ages.
BRASSEY'S (Lady) A Voyage in the

' Sunbeam '. With 66 Illustrations.
CLODD'S (B.) Story of Creation : a

Plain Account of Evolution. With

77 Illustrations.
DOYLE'S (A. Gonan) Micah Clarke : a

Tale of Monmouth's RebeUion.
FROUDE'S (J. A.) Short Studies on

Great Subjects. 4 vols.

Caesar : a Sketch.

Thomas Carlyle : a History

of his Life. 1795-1835. 2 vols.

1834-1881. 2 vols.
The Two Chiefs of Dunboy :

an Irish Romance of the Last

Century.
GLEIG'S (Rev. G. R.) Life of the Duke

of Wellington. With Portrait.
HAGGARD'S (H. R.) She : A History of

Adventure. 32 Illustrations.
Allan Quatermain. With

20 Illustrations.
Colonel Quaritch, Y.C. : a

Tale of Country Life.

Cleopatra. With 29 Full-

page Illustrations.
Beatrice.

HOWITT'S (W.) Visits to Remarkable

Places. 80 Illustrations.
JEFFERIES' (R.) The Story of My

Heart. With Portrait.
Field and Hedgerow. Last

Essays of. With Portrait.

Red Deer. With 17 Illust.

KNIGHT'S (E. F.) Cruise of the

•Alerte,' a Search for Treasure.

With 2 Maps and 23 Illustrations.
LEES (J. A.) and CLUTTERBUCK'S

(W. J.) B.C. 1887. British Columbia.

75 Illustrations.
MACAULAY'S (Lord) Essays— Lays of

Ancient Rome. In i vol. With

Portrait and Illustrations to the

' Lays '.
MACLEOD'S (H. D.) The Elements of

Banking.
MARSHMAN'S (J. C.) Memoirs of Sir

Henry Havelock.

MERIYALE'S (Dean) History of tho
Romans under the Empire. 8 vols.

MILL'S (J. S.) Principles of Political

Economy.
System of Logic.

NEWr3AN'S (Cardinal) Historical
Sketches. 3 vols.

Apologia Fro Yita Sua.

Callista : a Tale of the Third

Century.

Loss and Gain : a Tale.

Essays, Critical and His-
torical. 2 vols.

An Essay on the Develop-
ment of Christian Doctrine.

The Arians of the Fourth

Century.
Yerses

on Various Occa-

Difficulties felt by Anglicans

in Catholic Teaching Considered.
2 vols.

The Idea of a University

defined and Illustrated.

Biblical and Ecclesiastical

Miracles.

Discussions and Arguments

on Various Subjects.

Grammar of Assent.

The Via Media of the An-
glican Church. 2 vols.

Parochial and Plain Ser-

mons. 8 vols.
Selection

from 'Parochial

and Plain Sermons'.
Discourses Addressed

to
Mixed Congregations.

Present Position of Ca-
tholics in England.

Sermons bearing upon Sub-
jects of the Day.

PHILLIPPS-WOLLEY'S (C.) Snap : a

Legend of the Lone Mountains. 13
Illustrations,

STANLEY'S (Bishop) Familiar History
of Birds. With 160 Illustrations.

WOOD'S (Rev. J. G.) Petland Re-
visited. With 33 Illustrations.

— Strange Dwellings. With 60

Illustrations.
Out of Doors.

With II Illus-

trations.

22 A CATALOGUE OF BOOKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE

SMITH (R. Bosworth).— CARTHAGE AND THE CARTHAGINIANS.
Maps, Plans, &c. Crown 8vo. 6s.

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