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NEW SYSTEM

OF

HOESE TRAINING

As practised and taught by S. E. Olapp,

INCLUDING A

TREATISE ON SHOEING.

ALBANY:

O. VAN BENTHUYSEN, PRI'nTER,

1865* *.

•CA^t^S

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X

I

PREFACE.

The subject of horsemanship is so closely allied and identified
with all man's interest that everything that can be said to
promote a reform in that particular, cannot but commend
itself to every one interested in that noble animal, and who is
there that is not. For the most common transactions of every
day life cannot be consummated without calling in his aid.
This book is not presented to the public as an unexceptionable
treatise on the horse. It is merely a plain practical exposition
of the best system of horsemanship, that to-day is extant, one
that has met with the approbation and commendation of the
best horsemen of the age, and one that has received a patronage
vouchsafed to no other system. It is merely to gratify a desire
expressed by hundreds who have witnessed my operations, to
have me publish a book explanatory of the system, so that many
things that otherwise might escape their notice, that can at any
moment be refreshed by simply a reference to the book, and yet
every move with the horse is made so plain and intelligible, that
those who have never witnessed my operations can take hold
of and manage the wildest colt or the most vicious horse. While
I beg from the scrutinizing public a charitilble criticism for any
short coming that may be discovered, I yet feel great confidence
that the work will meet with a hearty approval from horsemen
generally and prove a valuable auxilliary in bringing about that
much needed reform in the proper management and control of
the most noble of the brute creation.

f

TREATISE 01 HORSE TAMING.

NATURE OF THE HORSE.

The horse has no reasoning faculties beyond the limits of his
experience. Hence we can reason with him by acts alone.
Literally with the horse, acts speak louder than words, and
hence the absolute importance of commencing every move with
the horse right. For by our acts he learns. Secondly — Early
impressions are strong, both in the human family and with the
horse, and seldom, if ever, are entirely erased from memory's
tablet.

Who is there in the human family that does not well remember
the first impressions of his boyhood days, and as we journey on
through life '^hat a controlling influence they exert over us.
Just so with the horse ; hence the great importance of having
his first impressions of man of such a nature as to convince him,
not only of man's superiority, but to satisfy him that man is his
best friend. Obtain by a systematic course of handling not
only supreme power over him, but learn him also to repose trust
and confidence in you, and then never betray it. No animal has
memory equal to that of the horse, and none will reciprocate a
kindness or resent an injury sooner. We hold that man being,
on account of his intellectual resources, superior to all other
animals, is and hafe afcright to be at the head of all animal
creation, for he can ackpt means to overcome the strength of
the horse or even use it against himself.

NECESSITY OF KINDNESS AND HONESTY.

You must treat the horse kindly — you must obtain his confi"
dence and then never abuse it — deal honestly with him — never
lie to him. — he judges you by your acts — never ask him to do
anything without you are in a position to compel obedience, ( if
he has a correct idea of what you want ) and then when the
obedience is rendered, reward him for it. Be prompt, but never
deceive him. • . ^

\

1

NECESSITY OF FAMILIARIZING TO OBJECTS OF FEAR.
As we are taught, there is no effect without a cause, and as
the horse becomes fearless and confident so far as he understands,
there is no cause for fear. We should remove the cause of
mischief as much as possible by complying with those laws of
his nature by which he examines an object, or determines upon
its innocence or harm. Therefore let him examine and smell of
such things as are likely to frighten him, such as a log by the
road-side, an umbrella, buffalo robe, or any frightful object—^
his nose is his fingers.

USB INTELLIGENT MEANS.

The horse should be treated with kindness and consideration ;
you have a right to curb and restrain his spirit, but not to subdue
it; he has no more natural spirit thiln it is proper he should
have, and the great difficulty with all the theories of horseman-
ship that have been promulgated to the world is, that they have
been founded upon the one idea of subjugation alone. Subju-
gation is not teaching ; you have a right to restrain — to make
them conform to your will. But you must also teach him what
you want him to do. To hitch up the wild colt and to say whoa
to him, without first having taught him the word whoa, is unrea-
sonable in the extreme. 'Tis true, we cannot handle the wild
colt that is actuated by fear as we can the old horse that is
actuated by vengeance ; with the one we are all mildnesss,
whereas we take hold of the other in a manner that satisfies him
that there is to be no partnership arrangement about it, but we
are to have it our way all the time.

TO HALTER THE WILD €OLT.

Provide yourself with a pole, a piece of edging, a rake handle
or anything else of that kind, cut a notch into one end and
about seven inches from this end raise a few chips from the
opposite end of the stick. Then take a common rope halter,
draw out the stale through the loop so that that portion will
drop down eighteen or twenty inches , now hang the head piece
on the notches on the end of your stick, holding the end in
your hand with your stick ; your halter now hangs upon your
stick so spread that you can put it over the colt's ears without
touching any part of his head. You now approach the colt
swinging your halter, which immediately attracts his attention
and he will reach out his nose to smell it. While he is smelling
of it, you cautiously raise it over his head until back of his

ears^ then turn your stick half round and your halter will drop
upon his head, now take the end of the stick and shove up th^
loop so as to draw up the slack and your colt is haltered, and
he is not frightened and you are not hurt.

TO LEARN THE COLT TO LEAD.

Step back on a line with his hips and say " come here sir,"
and give him a smart, sharp pull, which will swing him round
to you, then step to the opposite side and give him the same
side pull and say, " come here sir." If he should not pull easily
enough, as soon as you can gentle him enough to approach him,
fasten up with a short strap one fore foot and then you can pull
him the more readily either side ; never pull him straight ahead
until after you have learned him to come promptly either side,
for side-ways you can pull him and straight ahead you cannot.
Do not let him know his strength for he has no reasoning powers
to say ' ' you can pull me sideways but straight ahead you cannot. ' '
Should he sulk after a little and refuse to come either way, take
a short hold of the halter with the left hand, while with the
right grasp the tail firmly and whirl him round until he acts
dizzy, then whirl him the other way. This convinces him you
can handle him just as you please. The moment he follows you
pat him for it.

TO HANDLE THE COLT'S FEET.

If a fore foot, stand by the side of your colt and throw over
his back a light strap and tie it around his arm loosely, so that
it will slip down to his fetlock joint, then take up his foot with
the strap and keep close to his side until after he is through
struggling, then commence to gentle the foot with your hands
and pound upon it a very little. ' In a short time he will suffer
you to handle it as ^ou please. If a hind foot .take the fore
foot in your left hand while with your right you pass the end of
the strap around the hind leg below the fetlock. Now pull
upon the strap which will cause the foot to be drawn forward.
This he will resist by kicking, but he soon finds resistance
useless and will give you his foot, then take it into your hands
and gentle as described for the fore foot. If more thorough
treatment is found necessary, see management of horse bad to
shoe.

HOW TO RIDE THE WILD COLT.

Stand upon the near side of your colt and through over his
back a piece of web or a strap and fasten to his right fore foot

1

5

below tlie fetlock joint, then take np his foot and hold it for g,
few minutes until he ceases struggling, then quietly let him
have it and lead him along a few steps and say whoa, and at the
same time you say whoa, draw up the strap, which makes him
stop, for it puts him on three legs, After you have led him a
little ways in this way, stand by his side and take up his foot
and wind your hand in the strap and commence to jump up and
down by his side a few times, keeping hold of the foot; then
carefully jump on him with your breast and slide back again ;
then while holding up the foot jump quietly on his back. Now
let down his foot and if he shows the least disposition to stir
take up his foot and drop it and take it again. The idea is that
he cannot think of two things at once, and the moment he thinks
of throwing you off ( which you detect by the drawing of the
muscels of his back,) you take his foot and change his attention to
that and his back is all right. This plan will ride any colt or horse.

TO TEACH A COLT TO FOLLOW UNDER THE WHIP.

Buckle around your colt an ordinary surcingle rather loosely,
take a piece of web or a long strap, about fifteen or even twenty
feet in length. Take the strap and pass it through the surcingle
and fasten to the colt's left fore foot, now take hold of the strap
about six feet from where it passes through the surcingle and
place your whip over the colt's back and commence to tap him
on the right side of the head very gently. If he turns his head
towards you and looks or makes a step towards you, stop and
pat him ; if he attempts to leave you take his foot and let him
go on tnree legs running around you ; the moment he stops
step up to him again, place your whip over his back and repeat,
and in a very few minutes he will then turn towards you the
moment you place the whip on the opposite side. Then you
can take off your strap and he will follow you readily, but be
careful and not whip when he is turning towards you. Keep
him in difficulty with the whip whenever he turns his head from
you, but the moment he turns towards you reward him, and he
will soon learn there is no peace except by you; and then
practice will soon make him perfect. The same plan breaks
the wild steer to haw and gee under the whip.
THE WAR BRIDLE.

This is one of the most powerful means of control in the
management of the horse that is known. The War Bridle is
simply a cord of about the size of a common bed-cord or clothes-
line. It should be of cotton and made of fine yarn, or what is
known as fine thread cotton cord, about three-eighths of an inch

in diameter, used extensively for clothes-lines — or. any cord of
about the same strength.

Take a cord of the above description — in length about fifteen
feet ; tie one end into a hard knot, just as you would to prevent
its ravelling ; now tie another knot about ten inches, or a little
more, from the one on the end, but before you draw it tight put
the knot on the end through. You now have a loop that will
not slip. This loop should be just large enough to slip over the
under jaw of the horse you wish to train ; put the loop over the
lower jaw, then, while standing on the near side, take the cord
in the left hand and bring over the neck by passing the left
hand under the neck to the opposite side, towards the mane ;
now bring the right hand over the neck, and take the cord from
the left and pass back to the loop and put through from the top
side, until the part over the neck is drawn down like a check
rein ; now take hold of the end of this rein and you will find
you have a means of power in it that makes the strongest horse
almost a plaything in your hands. You must use this bridle
with judgment, for in the proper use of it consists its great
value. In handling the colt with it you must use the utmost
mildness, whereas many who have witnessed my operations, and
then commenced subsequently to use it, have made a little
resistance on the part of the colt an excuse to use it in the most
severe manner, until the colt becomes so desperate with pain as
to be entirely reckless and regardless of the utmost efforts, but
in the management of the old horse you can take hold of him
as if you were determined that any resistance on his part would
be entirely useless. Step to one side of your colt and say,
" come here, sir," pulling a very little on the bridle, just enough
to bring his head towards you, and repeat for a few times, each
time that he comes towards you at the word,- reward him with
a pat on the neck, and if he don't stir, pull him with the bridle.
Any colt or horse can be made to follow you in a very few
minutes with this bridle.

HANDLING THE COLT'S FEET.
Commence gently to pick up his feet, and if he resists you
reprove him for it by pulling down a little on the mouth with
the bridle, which will act like a charm. If it is the hind feet
you wish to handle, put a strap to his hind foot and bring up
the foot, then the moment he kicks, bring down on the mouth
sharply with the bridle. In a short time he will submit ; if not,
use him according to directions laid down elsewhere for the
horse bad to shoe.

7

TO TEACH THE COLT TO BACK.

Put on the War Bridle, stand directly in front of your horse,
having hold of the cord — about twenty inches from the head
— with your left hand, resting the right on the cord or bridle
about four or five inches from the head. You will say " back,
sir," and at the same time press down and back with your right
hand steadily on the cord until, by way of relieving himself, he
will step back one step ; let up on the cord, and pat him. That
teaches him what you want. Then repeat for a few times, and
after you have given him the idea and the motion, you then
can press him back sharply with the cord, and in a few minutes
more at the word; This will never fail to teach the colt or bad
horse to back.

BITTING THE COLT.

All you can possibly accomplish with the old fashioned bitting
bridle I can accomplish with my bridle in forty minutes, and
that is to teach the horse to hold down his head, hold up his
his head, and to the right and to the left at the touch of the
rein. If nature has not designated the horse to have a high,
stylish head and carriage, no art of man can alter it, and the
old fashioned practice of straining up the neck in an unnatural
position, and leaving it there for hours, nine times out of ten
results in a heavy-headed lugger on the bits.

HOW TO MAKE A BITTING BRIDLE.

Take your cord, previously used, and fix a loop upon the
other end, just like the one used to go over the jaw, only big
enough to go over his neck, and fit down rather tight where the
collar is worn ; now bring your cord forward, put through the
mouth from the off side and bring back on the near side, and
put through the loop around the neck ; now pull upon this cord
and the head will be drawn back to the breast. You are now
prepared to bit. Simply pull upon the cord a little, and as soon
as he curbs his head well, relieve him — that teaches him it is
there you want it. When you want to raise his head, lift
quickly on the cord, and you elevate his head finely. You
should not bit over five minutes at a time, and then put it away,
and after a little resume it, and in forty minutes time, dividing
each bitting into five minutes each, you can bit your colt well.

TRAINING TO HARNESS.

You should be very careful the first time you undertake to
harness your colt, to see that the harness fits perfectly well,

8

and that it is perfectly safe. Many accidents have been the
results of such carelessness. Then, with aid of the bridle to
reprove him if he resists the putting of the harness on him,
harness him, and after you have moved him about a little, attach
to him, before yoH undertake to hitch him to the sulky, what I
shall call a foot strap, which is simply a piece of webbing, or a
piece of strap or rope long enough to be fastened to one of his
forward feet, and then run over the belly-band of the harness,
and then outside of the tugs back to the buggy or sulky, which
you hold in your hand as a life insurance or third rein. If he
attempts to run away, pull upon the strap, which throws him
on three feet instantly, and he has to stop. If he attempts to
run back, the same remedy stops him. If he attempts to kick
you, attract his attention forward instantly, and at the same
time make it impossible for him to kick. The moment you
notice any disposition to kick, you take his foot which disconcerts
him, and attracts his attention away from his hind parts, while
it is impossible for him to kick ; but do not take his foot and
hold it, but keep snatching and letting him have it, and you
will soon break him up of the habit. This is one of the most
powerful means of control ever yet devised ; because you beat
him while right in the act.

OBJECTS OF FEAR.

Never whip your horse for becoming frightened at any object
by the road-side ; for if he sees a stump, a log, or a heap of tan
bark in the road, and while he is eyeing it carefully, and about
to pass it, you strike him with the whip, it is the log, or the
stump, or the tan bark that is hurting him, in his way of
reasoning, and the next time he will act more frightened. Give
him time to examine and smell of all these objects, and use the
war bridle to assist you in bringing him carefully to these
objects of fear. Bring all objects, if possible, to his nose, and
let him smell of them, and then you can commence to gentle
him with them.

DRIVING.

In teaching a young horse to drive well, do not be in a hurry
to see how fast he can trot. Keep each pace clear and distinct
from each other, — that is in walking, make him walk, and do
not allow him to trot. While trotting be equally careful that
he keeps steadily at his pace, and do not allow him to slack into
a walk. The reins, while driving, should be kept snug ; and
when purshed to the top of his speed, keep him well in hand
that he may learn to bear well upon the bit, so that when going

9

at a high rate of speed he can be held at his pace, but do not allow
him to pull too hard, for that is not only unpleasant, but makes it
often difficult to manage him.

TO TRAIN A HORSE TO STAND WHEN GETTING INTO A CARRIAGE.

Take your horse on the barn floor and throw a strap over his
back and fasten it to his right fore foot ; lead him along and
say "whoa," at the same time pull down on the strap, which
throws him on three feet and makes him stop suddenly. This
is the best way known to teach whoa — though you can put on
the war bridle, and say whoa, and give him a sharp jerk that
will stop him about as soon as the strap to the foot Then put
him in harness with the foot strap, as directed to under the
head of " training to harness," and drive him up to the door.
The moment he undertakes to move, take his foot and say whoa.
Gret into your carriage and get out again ; rattle the thills .
make all the noise getting in and out you can; give him to
understand, by snatching his foot each time he moves, that he
must stand until you tell him to go ; and in a few times you
will have a horse that you can put the whole family in and he
wont stir out of his tracks.

BALKY HORSES.

When the horse balks in harness, it is not from any unwilling-
ness to perform his duty, but from some confuison or excitement
arising from mismanagement. He is willing and anxious to go,
but too eager or high spirited to make the steady push against
the collar necessary to move the load. The usual plan is to
commence to curse and lash. A volume might be written on
the importance of keeping cool on all such occasions. Frequently,
simply going to their heads and moving them gently against
their collars to the right and left evenly, giving them time to
get cool, and they will start of their own accord. Sometimes
taking up one fore foot in you hand, and giving the horse a
sharp press against the shoulder, to one side, will cause him to
step, and start him. But if the habit is firmly fixed, you will
have to resort to the following means, which will take a few
lessons, and then you break up the habit.

Take your balky horse in the barn or on a piece of green
sward; take him by the head and tail and whirl him around
until he is quite dizzy, and if you become dizzy before he does,
let him whirl himself as follows : Tie the hair of the tail into
a hard knot ; then take the halter strap in your left hand, holding
the tail in your right, pass the halter strap through the hair,

10

above the knot, and draw up as short as the horse will bear
without running around tying quickly. This will bring the
horse in the form of a half-circle — his head fast to his tail by
the halter strap. Your object is to break up his confidence in
himself : and nothing on earth, no process you can subject him
to, will do it half so soon as this. Should he not run around
very freely, touch him behind with the whip, which will cause
him to move sharply. Simply keeping him moving until he
falls down by becoming dizzy, which he will do inside of a
minute and a-half. Let him lie a few minutes ; then tie him
in the opposite direction and put him through until he falls, or
is unable to move. Then put oaa your war bridle and give him
a few sharp jerks to the right and left, and show him you can
handle him by the head as well as by the tail ; and train him
until he will spring to the right and left and straight forward,
when you ask him to — and then you are in a shape to put him in
harness. If he refuses to draw, step in front of him with the
bridle on, and fetch him either way first, and then straight
ahead ; and in a short time you will work it out of him. If at
any time your horse should become warm, set him away and let
him cool. You will gain time by it, for when sulky and heated,
he is in no shape to learn.

KICKING IN HARNESS.

Kicking in harness is regarded as one of the worst and the
most dangerous habits that the horse has. How often do we
hear the remark made by dealers, " I care not what he will do
if he will not kick." It is generally the result in the first
instance of gross carlessness and bad management. The habit
in the colt, frequently, is formed by suff'ering the straps to
dangle about his flanks and legs, which frightens him and makes
him kick, as a matter of self-defence. In old horses the habit
usually is caused by some mishap while in harness, such as
hitching him too near, so that his heels touch the cross bar ; or,
by a bolt of the thills coming out and letting the wagon on his
heels.

This fear must be broken up by habituating the horse to being
touched, and made to bear the various causes of mischief without
the ability to resist ; when he becoming convinced that there is
no harm to be apprehended from them, he will give up the habit.
Your main remedy is the foot strap. Put on your foot strap,
and as the horse moves off, say gently, whoa, and instantly pull
upon the strap, wnich throws him upon three legs — and so
continue until he will stop instantly when whoa is called. Then

11

tempt the horse to kick, and the next instant take his foot.
Put your strap between his hind legs and dangle it all around
him ; use behind him any frightful object that he is afraid of,
and for the first few times in harness, use him with the foot strap
on, as the third rein.

KICKING IN STALL.

Put on the saddle part of a carriage harness and buckle on
tightly. Then take a short strap with a ring attached, and
buckle around the forward foot below the fetlock. To this short
strap attach another strap, which bring up and pass through the
turret; then return to the foot and run through the ring in the
short strap, then pass over the belly band and tie to the hiui!
leg below the fetlock. With this attachment on each side, the
moment a horse kicks he pulls his forward feet from under and
trips himself upon his knees, which he will be very careful not
to do but a few times.

HALTER PULLING.

Put on the war bridle and train the horse about until he will
come to you readily when you pull upon him a little sideways.
Simply repeat this, gradually a little more on a line with his
body at each repetition, until he will yield as readily to being
pulled forward as sideways. Now take him to the post and run
your bridle through the ring, but do not tie it • keep hold of it
in your hand and frighten him back, as he starts to run back,
give him a quick, sharp pull, and then let go. Do not hang on,
even if he draws the bridle out of the ring. Fetch him up
again, and repeat, and at the third or fourth trial you will not
be able to make him pull. Then do not consider him broken
by any means, but repeat whenever he has the habit of pulling ;
at the post in the street, in the stall or wherever it may be.
Another plan is : Tie a strap or a piece of rope around the body, "^
where the harness saddle rests ; now lead the horse to his
manger or to a post, run the halter strap through the ring or
hole, and pass back between the fore legs, over the strap or
rope tied around the body, and tie to the hind leg, below the
fetlock. You now step forward to his head and make him pull.
Of course he will go back with a rush, but the moment he
attempts going back, the halter strap pulls directly upon the
hind leg, which frightens him behind, and he steps forward to
get out of difficulty. Three or four lessons will usually break
up the habit ; but do not be afraid of making him pull. Frighten
him back by all means possible. The more you can make him
pull upon himself, at first, the quicker he will give it up.

12

THE HORSE BAD TO SHOE.
Usually, all horses bad to shoe, can be shod by attaching to
his hind foot a short strap, and taking it in your right hand,
while you have the war bridle on him and in your left hand,
you pull his foot forward with the strap, at which he kicks and
you reprove him with the war bridle, keeping his foot up with
the strap until he submits without resistance. But if your
subject is very bad, take a piece of webbing, a strap, or a rope
about twelve foot long ; step before the horse and tie one end
of it in a loop around the neck, where the collar rests. Now
pass the other end back between the fore legs, around the near
hind leg, below the fetlock, and bring forward outside of the
left fore leg and put through the loop around the neck ; now
step a little in front of the horse and take hold of this strap
and pull back upon it, until you bring the foot forward a very
little, just so that when he undertakes to step he can just reach
the floor a little ; in a few minutes more take up his foot as far
forward as you can, when you can hold it very easily. He will
struggle to free the foot by kicking, but you must let him
struggle, and if he undertakes to run backward, whirl him
around by the head until he will yield his foot. As soon as he
yields a little, handle it gently until he will suffer you to handle
it while back in its natural position. Be sure and rub the leg
very carefully when you put it down, and use a soft strap or
piece of webbing, for fear you may chafe the foot.

RUNNING AWAY.

Put on the foot strap, and when he attempts to run, take up
his foot, making him run and tripping him every time he will
not stop instantly at the word whoa. Should he be extremely
wilful, he may run on three legs. If you mistrust so, attach
another strap to the opposite foot. Then make him run, and if
he will not stop for the taking up of one foot, take up the
second, which will destroy his confidence in short order. This
will effectually beat any run away' horse or team.

GENERAL REMARKS.

Mankind are too apt to depend upon their strength to beat
the horse without making any use of their reasoning powers to
out general him, — and, in many instances, such an exercise of
tyranny over the horse only engenders a rebellious spirit on the
part of the animal. Therefore lay aside your strength, and use
your reason ; be moderate, be temperate. No man can become

I

13

a good horseman, and not have first learned to control himself,
before he attempts to control the animal. Be firm, be persever-
ing, be honest — never lie to your horse. Endeavor to have him
understand what you want, and do not confuse him by attaching
different meanings to the same word. It is quite common to
say whoa, when it is only intended to go slower ; or when the
horse has not stirred a foot, to let him know of your presence,
and then when you want a whoa — when your life may depend
upon your having a good whoa upon your horse — you find you
have not got it. You have played it entirely out of him. Never
say whoa, unless you mean to stop right there. Speak always
in a natural tone of voice, under all circumstances.

Have your horse understand by examination and experience,
that things liable to frighten are harmless ; and be sure not to
whip for being frigntened. Always let your horse face the
object of fear, and, when frightened, remember the slower you
move your horse, the more power you have over him. There
are times when letting a horse trot is almost as bad as letting
him run away.

Fear is something a horseman should never exhibit, in his
countenance or voice, as the horse is a close observer, and soon
learns to take advantage of such indications, to become careless
of control, if not, indeed, aggressive. Let your lessons be
thorough but not very long. Be gentle and patient with the
colt, but make the willful, stubborn horse feel the full extent of
your power until he submits. Though if he should become much
heated and excited, it is prudent to stop, and repeat the lesson
at some future time ; but repeat until there is thorough and
unconditional submission. Let your treatment be characterized
by gentleness afterwards.

TRICKS.

As many of my scholars may wish to know how to teach their
horses tricks, I will explain how it may be done. Teaching a
young horse a few tricks serves greatly to keep up an interest in
him, and makes him appear intelligent, fearless and afi"ectionate.
In teaching your horse to perform tricks, it is best to give him
one or two lessons of half or three-quarters of an hour each,
daily.

TO COME AT THE CRACK OF THE WHIP OR AT THE WORD OF
COMMAND.

Put on the war bridle, stand off a few feet from his head,
holding the end of the bridle in your left hand and the whip in
the right.

14

^

Crack the whip a little, and say, Come here, sir. He does not
know what this means, but you show him by pulling on the bridle
a little, which he will obey by moving towards you a few steps.
This movement you thank him by stepping forward and giving
him a little apple or a few kernels of corn, and caressing him
gently; then repeat in the same way, rewarding him as before,
and so continue until he will walk up to you readily when you
crack the whip, or say, come here, sir, which he will soon learn
to do. Each time he comes to you, talk to him kindly, and do
not fail to give him his little reward of corn, apple, oats, or
something of the kind, which he likes. You can now take off his
halter and turn him loose, and repeat until he fully comprehends
that the way to avoid the whip is to come to you, which, with
the encouragement of rewarding, will soon inspire his fullest
confidence, and he will come to you and follow like a dog.

Be very cautious about the use of the whip or harsh language,
remembering that perfect, cheerful obedience is your object, and
that can be secured only by great patience and gentleness.

TO MAKE A BOW.
Take a pin in your right hand, between the thumb and fore-
finger, and stand up before but little to the left of your horse.
Then prick him on the breast very lightly, as if a fly biting,
which to relieve he will bring down his head, which you will
accept as yes, and for which you will reward by caressing and
feeding as before. Then repeat and so continue until he will
bring his head down the moment he sees the least motion of your
hand towards his breast, or substitute some signal which he will
understand readily.

TO SAY NO.

Stand by your horse near the shoulder, holding the same pin
in your hand, with which prick him lightly on the withers, and
to drive which away he will shake his head. You then caress
as before, and repeating, until he will shake his head at the least
indication of your touching him with the pin ; you can train
your horse so nicely in this way in a short time as to cause him
to shake his head or bow by merely turning the hand a little, or
moving it slightly towards him.

TO LIB DOWN.
. To teach a horse how to do this trick quickly, you must lay
him down two or three times, or as often as you will find it
necessary to make him understand your object. If an old horse,
strap the near fore leg up to the arm, then take your little strap,

I 15

previously used to tamper your colt with, and place over the
back and strap around the off fore foot, below the fetlock. Then
take the bridle rein firmly in your left hand, about eighteen inches
from the head, and pull it a little towards you. The moment
he steps pull upon the strap over the body, which will bring the
horse on his knees. Hold him quietly, at the same time talking
to him gently. When he springs, pull sharply with the Jeft
hand, and the same instant pull down with the right, which will
swing him around you and prevent his rising high enough to
injure his knees by the momentum of the body in coming down.
By being gentle, the horse will usually lie down in a short time.
When down, treat your horse with the greatest attention and
kindness. After holding him down ten or fifteen minutes, per-
mit him to get up. Repeat this lesson untill he will come down
readily. Then use only the strap over the back, aiid which have
on the near foot, and bring him on his knees gently, when he
will soon lie down. When he will come on his knees readily by
taking up the foot in this way, take up the foot with the hand,
asking him to lie down. He will soon come down. When he
will come on his kness readily by taking up the foot with the
hand, simply stoop as if intending to take it up, saying, lie down,
sir. Then make him come down by a motion of the hand, and,
finally, by simply telling him to lie down. If a colt, use but
the single strap over the body at first, which will soon cause him
to come on his knees. In teaching a horse to lie down, be gentle,
caress and reward him for lying down, and your horse compre-
hending what you want, and finding himself paid for compliance,
will soon be as anxious to get down for the reward as you are to
have him do so.

TO SIT UP.

When your horse will lie down readily, you can then teach
him to sit up, like a dog, easily. If young, and not very heavy
and strong, you can easily prevent his getting up without tying
down. First cause him to lie down, having on him a common
bridle, with the reins over the neck, then step behind him and
place the right foot firmly upon the tail, the reins in your hands.
Then say, get up, sir.

The horse, rising from a recumbent position, first turns on his
belly, throws out his forward feet and raises himself on them,
springs forward and rises on his hind feet. Now, standing upon
his tail firmly, and pulling back upon the reins when he attempts
to spring forward and up, will prevent his doing so, and you
hold him sitting up.

16

Hold him firmly a few seconds, talking to him kindly, before
permitting him to rise on his feet. Repeat a few times, when,
instead of springing up, he will sit on his haunches a short time,
which you are to accept as complying with your wishes. Always
say, " Sit up, sir," every time, and hold him in this position as
long as he will bear, by fondling and feeding him with some-
thingK^e likes, from the hand, and your horse will soon learn to
sit up for you as long as you please.

But if your horse is heavy and strong, it will be necessary to
resort to other means to hold him down at first. This you do
by putting on his neck a common collar and causing him to lie
down. Then fasten a piece of rope, or a rein, to each hind foot
and bring forward through the collar and draw up close, which
will bring the hind feet well forward. Then step behind, as
before, and when he attempts to rise on his hind feet he finds it
impossible to do so, because you hold them firmly with those
straps. Repeat two or three times, when it will not be necessary
to resort to such force.

TO TEACH YOUR HORSE TO KISS YOU.

Teach him first to take an apple out of your hand. Then
gradually raise the hand nearer your mouth, at each reception,
until you require him to take it from your mouth, holding it with
the hand, telling him at the same time to kiss you. He will
soon learn to reach his nose up to your mouth ; first to get his
apple, but finally because commanded to do so. Simply repeat
until your horse understands the trick thoroughly.

TO SHAKE HANDS.

Tie a short strap, or piece of cord, to the forward foot, below
the fetlock. Stand directly before the horse, holding the end of
this strap or cord in your hand, then say, "shake hands, sir,"
and immediately after commanding him to do so, pull upon the
Btrap, which will bring his foot forward, and which you are to
accept as shaking hands, thanking him for it by caressing and
feeding, and so repeat until, when you make the demand, he will
bring the foot forward in anticipation of having it pulled up.
This is a very easy trick to teach a horse. By a little practice,
a horse may be easily trained to approa.ch, make a bow, shake
hands and follow like a dog, lie down, ^it up, &c., which make
him appear both polite and intelligent.

Never lose j^Qurage or confidence in your ability, because
you may not bring about good results easily. To accomplish

17

any thing of importance, remember, requires no ordinary resolu-
tion and perseverance. There would be no credit or importance
attached to mastering and managing bad horses, if not difficult
and apparently dangerous. No duty requires more firmness of
purpose in the control of the passions, or more fidelity to the
principles of kindness and truth, than that of horsemanship.

If you would be a really successful horseman, you must never
seem to forget, by your conduct, that you are a man, and that
your real superiority over the animal, consists in the prudent
exercise of your reasoning powers. Brute force is not your
forte, and the instant you give away to passion, your reason
must yield to the control of blind instinct, and you at once
abdicate your intellectual superiority over the animal. Try to
prove, by the example of your actions in the performance of the
duty, that to be a good horseman, requires higher qualifications
of fitness, than that of the huckstering, dishonesty and depravity
so generally evinced in the conduct of those claiming the dis-
tinction.

SHOEING.

If we examine the horse's foot while in the natural state,. It
will be found to be almost round, and very elastic at the heftls.
The frog, broad, plump, and of a soft yielding character; the
commissures, open and well defined, and the sole concave ; the
outside of the crust, from the heels to the toe, increased from a
slight level to an angle of about forty-five degrees. Conse-
quently, as the hoof grows, it becomes wider and longer in pro-
portion to the amount of horn secreted, and the narrower and
shorter in proportion to the amount of horn cut away from the
ground surface. If a shoe were fitted nicely and accurately to
the foot after being dressed down well, it would be found too
narrow and short for the same foot after the lapse of a few weeks.
Now if an unyielding shoe of iron is nailed firmly to this nat-
urally enlarging and elastic hoof, it prevents its natural freedom
of expansion almost wholly, and does not, as the foot grows
down, allow it to become wider at the quarters, in proportion
to the quantity of horn grown, as befoTe being shod ; and con-
sequently, the foot changes, from the continued effect of the
restraint, from an almost round, healthy foot, to a contracted
and unhealthy condition, as generally se^n in horses shod for a
few years. The principles which should govern in shoeing, are
few and simple, and it is surprising that a matter involving such
serious consequences, should be conducted with so little consid-
eration. The object of the shoer should be, in trimming and
preparing the hoof for the shoe, to keep the foot natural, and
this involves, first, the cutting away of any undue accumulation
of horn affecting in the least its health and freedom.

Second. To carry out in the form of the shoe, that of the foot
as nearly as possible.

Third. To fit and fasten the shoe to the foot so as to interfere
least with its health and elasticity.

The object in preparing the foot for the shoe, should be to
remove any undue accumulation of horn, designed to prevent its
natural bearing, and the free, healthy action of its parts, and
requires the cutting away of about the proportion contact with
the ground would have worn off, or so much as had grown sinc*^

19

being shod last. If the shoes have been on a month, then the
proportion of horn secreted in the time is to be removed. If
on two months, then the proportion of two months' growth. No
definite rule can be given,. the judgment must be governed by
the circumstances of the case. The stronger and more rapid
the growth of the foot, the more must be cut away ; and the
weaker and less horn produced, the less, to the extreme of sim-
ply leveling the crust a little, the better to conform to the shoe.
There is, generally, a far more rapid growth of horn at the toe,
than at either the heels or the quarters ; more, therefore, will
require to be taken oif the toe than off the other parts. There-
fore shorten the toe and lower the heels until you succeed in
bringing down the bearing surface of the hoof upon the shoe, to
almost a level with the live horn of the sole. Be careful to
make the heels level.

Having lowered the crust to the necessary extent with the
buttress or knife, smooth it down level with the rasp. The sole
and frog detach the old horn by exfoliation, as it becomes super-
abundant. The sole, therefore, would not need paring were it
not for the restraining effect of the shoe upon the general func-
tions of the foot, which is liable to prevent such detachment of
the horn.

When this is the case, the sole should be properly dressedout
with an English shave, the end of which is shaped like an iron
used at saw mills to mark and measure boards. The buttress is
too large and square-edged to dress out so concave a surface
properly, and unless great care is exercised, it will not only
penetrate through the sole in some places, but leave others
entirely neglected. While a good workman may work well with
almost any kind of tool, such have, also, the faculty of adapting
tools to the work. A horse's foot is not to be hacked and cut,
as if only a block of lifeless wood, and if even a lifeless machine,
what care would be found necessary to preserve its harmony of
action complete. The buttress does not seem to me, to be at all
adapted to dressing out the sole, and should not be used for that
purpose. While I am obliged to find fault with the carelessness
ot blacksmiths in this respect, it is with the spirit of kindness,
sensible that I am myself only a dull pupil in the work of reform,
and perhaps deserving severe criticism.

I would be particular, also, in impressing the necessity of not
confounding the bars with the substance of the sole, and cutting
them dowji to a common level with the sole. Any man of
common sense can see that the bearing of the bars should be
equal to the outside of the crust upon the shoe, and that they

20

offer a decided resistance to the contraction of the heels. The
cutting away of the bars, to give the heel an open appearance,
is inexcusable, and should not be done.

In a natural, healthy condition, the frog has a line of bearing
with the hoof, and by its elastic nature, acts as a safeguard to
the delicate machinery of the foot immediately over it, and helps
to preserve the foot in its natural state, by keeping the heels
spread. It seems to be wisely intended to give life and health
to the foot. Permitting the heels to grow down, with the addi-
tion of high-heeled shoes, raises the frog from its natural position
and causes it to shrink and harden, and bears, in consequence,
an important influence in setting up a diseased action that usually
results in contraction of the foot. If the heels are square and
high, and the hoof presents rather a long, narrow appearance,
and is hollow on the bottom, there is a state of contraction going
on, and you mus-t not hesitate to dress down thoroughly. Do
not hesitate because the foot will appear small ; cut away until
you are well down to a level with the live horn of the sole, and
if the foot is weak, use the same prudence in not cutting it away
too much. The shoer must also bear in mind that the sole must
not rest upon the shoe. The sole, when not clogged with old
horn, acts as a spring to the weight of the horse, and if it rests
upon the shoe, an inflammation may be caused by the pressure
of the coffin bone upon the sensitive laming, which are liable, in
consequence, to be so bruised as to cause soreness and inflam-
mation. The efi'ects of such bruises are most common at the
angle of the inner heel, where the descending heel of the cofiin
bone, forcibly pressing the soft, sensible sole, upon the horny
sole, is apt to rupture one or more of the small blood vessels of
the delicate fleshy substance connecting the crust to the coffin
bone of the part, causing red spots, called corns. Let the foot
be so dressed down, and the shoe so approximate, that the bear-
ing will come evenly upon the crust all the way roumd, without
the sole touching the shoe. This requires the crust to be dressed
level, and though well down to the live horn of the sole, it
should always be left a little higher. The corners between the
bars and crust should be well pared out, so that there is no
danger of the sole resting upon the shoe.

Presuming that I have said enough on the subject of paring,
I will now consider the

SHOE.

The main object should be to have the shoe so formed as to
size, weight, fitting and fastening, as to combine the most
advantages of protection, and preserve the natural tread of the

21

foot for best ; in weight, it should be proportioned to the work
or employment of the horse. The foot should not be loaded
with more iron than is necessary to preserve it. If the hoof is
light, the shoe should be light also ; but if the horse works
principally on the road, his shoes should be rather heavy. In
its natural state, the foot has a concave sole surface, which
seems ,to oifer the greatest fulcrum of resistance to the horse
when traveling. Most of the shoes I exhibit are fashioned on
this principle, and, aside from the advantages of lightness and
strength, they are considered to be an improvement upon the
common flat shoe.

Geo. H. Dodd, veterinary surgeon, said lately in a letter on
shoeing: "The action of concave feet may be compared tro
that of the claws of a cat, or the nails on the fingers and toes
of man ; the nails and toes are the fulcrum : they grasp, as it
were, the object with which they come in contact, and thus they
secure a fulcrum of resistance when travelling or grasping.
Now in order to preserve the natural mechanical action of the
horn and sole, the ground surface of the shoe must correspond
exactly with the ground surface of the foot ; that is, the ground
surface of the shoe must be beveled, cup fashion ; its outer edge
being prominent, corresponds to the lower and outer rim of the
hoof; while the shoe being hollow, it resembles the natural
concavity of the sole of the foot.

" No matter what may be the form of the foot, whether it be
high or low heeled, contracted at the heels, lengthened or short-
ened at the toe, or having a concave or convex sole, it matters
not, the ground surface of the shoe must be concave. In every
other part of the shoe, alterations, deviations from any given
rule or form are needed, in consequence of the ever varying
form of the foot, and the condition of the same, both as regards
health and disease; but the sole of the foot being concave,
presents a pattern for the ground surface of the shoe, which
the smith, with all his skill, cannot improve on, and if all such
craftsmen were to follow this pattern more closely than they do,
there would be fewer accidents in falling, and a less number of
lame horses."

The shoe should be of an equal thickness all the way round,
perfectly level on the top side, and concave on the ground
surface. I cannot see the propriety, as given by a standard
author, of seating all the shoes alike, and of carrying it well
back to the heel. Seating appears to be necessary only for flat-
footed horses, or the inside edge of the shoe must be lowered
from the possible bearing of the sole, and enough to run a

22

pricker round between the shoe and hoof, to remove any gravel
or foreign matter that may find a lodgment between the sole
and shoe. If there is much space between the sole and shoe,
it invites the accumulation of gravel and other substances inju-
rious to the foot. If the seating is carried well back, and the
shoe so wide that the heels, instead of bearing on a level surface,
as they should, come down upon this inclined plane, it tends to
crowd them together. If the shoe is not wide in web, and the foot
strong and arched, it may be made entirely level on the top. At
all events, that portion upon which rests the heels and crust,
must be level, and should be fitted accurately. The shoe should
be continued completely round towards the heels as far as the
crust extends, as large as the full, unrasped hoof; but no part
must project beyond it, excepting at the extreme of the heels.
The expansion of the heels and the growth of the foot, require
that the shoe should be long enough and wide enough at the
heels, to allow for the natural growth of the foot, in the time
it is calculated the shoe should be on before being reset ; for as
the foot enlarges, the shoe is brought forward, until it looses its
original proportion, and becomes too short and narrow. The
shoe may be about a quarter of an inch* wider and longer than
the extreme bearing of the heels. The nail holes should be
punched coarse, and in the centre of the web. If the hind
shoe, four on the side and well forward ; if the forward shoe,
four on the outside, and two or three well forward in the inside
toe, as found necessary to retain the shoe. The manner of
fastening the shoe, is what really affects the foot, and which
requires the most speciajl attention in shoeing. For the foot
being elastic, expands in the same degree to the weight of the
body on the rough, that it does on the nicely fitted shoe. It is
the number and position of the nails that really affect the foot.
If they are placed well back in the quarters, four on the side,
as is common, the crust is held as firmly to this unyielding shoe,
as if in a vise, which utterly prevents the free action necessary
to its health. Inflammation of the sensitive laminae is produced,
which causes contraction, and the consequent derangement of
the whole foot. No matter how well shaped a boot may be, if
it is too short and small for the free action of the foot when in
use, it is a cause of continual torment, and induces the irritation
of inverted toe nails and corns of the most aggravating character.
The principle is precisely the same in shoeing horses, if the
free, natural expansion of the foot is prevented by the shoe
being so nailed to the hoof as to obstruct its expansion and the
possibility of the quarters spreading in proportion to the growth

23

of the hoof, there must result an irritation of the fleshy substance
between the crust and coffin bone, that ultimately sets up so
much diseased action of the parts, as to cause contraction and
navicular disease. Now shoes may be securely fastened without
causing such mischief, if the following method of nailing be
observed :

Drive four nails on the outer side of the foot, same as common,
while you drive but two or three well forward in the toe of the
opposite, which leaves the inner quarter virtually free and
independent of the shoe ; for the outside of the foot being the
only part fastened, carries the whole shoe with it at every
expansion, while the inner side being unattached, expands
independently of it, and the foot is left as nearly as possible, in
a state of nature, so far as its powers of expansion is concerned.
The reader may ask, will this style of nailing hold shoes on the
feet of horses of all work ? I answer yes. Experience has
fully demonstrated that seven nails will hold shoes on ordinary
feet, for any purpose, if the shoes are properly fitted, for a
period of from four to seven weeks, which is as long as shoes
ought to be on without resetting.

If the shoes are made with little clips at the toes to prevent
being pushed under the toes, less nailing will be required. If
seven nails are found to be necessary, you can drive three in a
space of an inch and a quarter, well forward in the toe, though
in most cases two will be found to answer the purpose. Turn
down the clinchers strongly. Nothing should be done for what
is called fancy. The hoof should never be rasped or filed above
the clinchers. The hoof is covered by a peculiar enamel that
prevents the too rapid evaporation of moisture from the horn,
and must not be disturbed. The practice of rasping, filing and
sand-papering the hoof to make it look nice, only produces
mischief, and should not be permitted.

Horses kept for light driving, and irregular work, and
particularly those having rather square, upright heels, should
be shod on the one-sided nailing principle, as the feet of such
horses are much disposed to contraction. So far as observation
and experience teach me, I find proper attention to paring down
the feet and fastening the shoe, so as not to interfere with the
free expansion of the hoof, as above, will remedy contraction ;
though attention to growing down the crust, and the application
of shoes that are slightly convex, or beveled out, so as to have
a tendency to spread the heels when the weight of the body is
thrown upon the foot, and fastening on the principle of the
inside quarter being left free, is regarded as much better. But

24

the blacksmith must be a good workman to fashion and fit a
shoe in this way properly. The nails should not be driven
higher in the crust than seven-eighths of an inch, and not so
deep as to possibly strike through to the quick. If the foot is
light, and shows a thin, delicate crust, the nails should be small,
and not driven high or deep into the horn. As a rule, the fewer
and smaller the nails used, provided they secure the shoe to the
foot with safety, the better. Shoes should be re-set, or replaced,
as often as once a month ; though in some cases it may not be
necessary to re-set quite so often. It is a positive necessity at
six, and must not be neglected longer than seven or eight weeks.

INTERFERING SHOES.

To prevent interfering, know what part of the foot hits the
opposite ankle. This you can do by wrapping the ankle with
a rag nicely, which color with some kind of coloring matter,
over where the opposite foot hits. Then drive the horse until
you can discover, by some of this coloring matter adhering,
what portion of the crust hits the ankle. Remove this portion
of the crust, and have the shoe set well under the foot, but
carefully fitted, so as to support the foot safely by the bearing
of the bar and heel. The hoof should be pared lowest on the
outside, to turn the ankle, that the outer hoof may pass clear.
Yet if the inside sole is not dressed, the rim soon breaks, and
the inside is found to be actually lower than the outside. Shoes,
to prevent interfering, should be light and of narrow web on
the inside, with three nail holes near the toe. They should be
straight at the point where they come in contact with the ankle
of the opposite leg. By adhering strictly to this principle of
paring the foot, and fitting and fastening of the shoe, you will
prevent a recurrence of the difiiculty.

Shoes to prevent over-reaching, should be long, and for the
forward feet, heavy, especially at the heels ; and for the hind
feet, light, with heavy toes. The hoof should be well pared at
the toe.

TO CURE CORNS.

Cut the horn well down, but not to the quick ; fit the shoe so
that it does not press upon the part. Then saturate well with
pine or sap „um, which is found exuding from pine trees when
cut. Fill the part nicely with tow, and put on the shoe, remem-
bering that the shoe must be so fitted as not to oblige the part
to support but very slightly, if any, the weight of the horse.
This remedy was given me by an intelligent shoer, and is

25

certainly good. Horses with corns must be oftener and more
carefully shod than those free from them.

In shoeing, strive to keep the form of the foot natural. If
the hoofs are not flat and weak, the shoes should set out evenly
to the edge of the crust under the toe. Let the nails be driven
well forward in the toe, or what is much better, be placed well
round in the outside quarter, and as far forward in the toe of
the inside as possible, and as few as will be found by experience
necessary to retain the shoe. Be positive in the enforcement
of this rule; and lastly, have the shoes re-set at least once
every six or seven weeks.

RECIPES.

The following Recipes have been gathered from sources enti*
tied to the fullest confidence, as remedies of great value, and
some of them at an unusual cost, and they are presented with
the hope of being fully appreciated.

It is well to remember, that to keep horses in health, is much
more important, less troublesome, and requires less skill than to
cure sick ones. Abuse, overwork and exposure, should be
guarded against, if the serious conaequences of inflammation of
the lungs, colic, &c., are to be avoided; and should your horse
be sick, it is always best to be cautious about doctoring too much,
or until you are sure of what is necessary to be done,

FOR INFLAMMATION OF THE LUNGS, IN A HORSE.

First, a thorough bleeding ; then would give tine, veratrum
viride, 1-2 oz. ; laudanum, 4 ozs. ; tinct. aconite, 1-4 oz. ; shake
well together, and give a teaspoonful every three or four hours,
in some water well sweetened ; and if it does not bring down
the pulse, the dose can be gradually increased to a tablespoonful,
and soon as the horse recovers so as to eat and lie down naturally,
would keep him on hay alone, perhaps with a few carrots or
potatoes, and daily give a bran mash with saltpetre, crude anti-
mony and sulphur, for ten or fifteen days, and you will prevent
dropsy of the chest, which is a sequel of that disease.

26

FOR COLIC IN HORSES.

Sulph. ether, 1 pint ; aromatic spirits ammonia, 1 pint ; sweet
spirits nitre, 2 pints ; opium, 1-4 lb. ; asafcetida, (pure,) 1-2 lb. ;
camphor, 1-2 lb. ; put in a large bottle, let stand 14 days, with
frequent shaking, and it will be fit for use. Dose, 2 ounces
every 2, 3, or 4 hours, until the horse is relieved. Should be
given in water well sweetened.

Another Remedy. — One oz. laudanum ; 1 oz. sweet spirits of
nitre ; 1 oz. tinct. asafoetida ; 1 teaspoonful capsicum ; from 2
to 3 ozs. carbonate soda ; 1-2 pint whiskey ; 1-2 pint water.
Mix and give at one dose, and if no better in twenty-five min-
utes, repeat half dose.

FOR SPAVIN.

Five ozs. euphorbium ; 2 ozs. Spanish flies, (fine ;) 1 oz. iodine
— dissolved with alcohol ; 1-2 oz. red precipitate ; 1 oz. corrosive
sublim. ; 1-2 oz. quicksilver ; 6 ozs. hog's lard ; 6 ozs. white
turpentine ; 1-4 lb. verdigris. Melt the lard and the turpentine
'together, then while hot add all together. Mix well; when
cold fit for use. Rub it in thoroughly on the spavin every day
for three days, then wash clean with soap-suds; omit for three
days, and then repeat for three days again, and so on until a
perfect cure is produced. Should it blister, use it more cau-
tiously.

A PREPARATION FOR BLOOD SPAVIN.

One half pound of blood-root, 1 qt. of alcohol, 2 ozs. of
tannin, and quarter of a pound of alum. Mix and let it stand,
shaking it several times a day, till the strength is all in the
alcohol, and bathe the spavin twice a day, rubbing it in with
the hand.

HEAVES.

Take smart- weed, steep it in boiling water till the strength is
all out ; give one quart every day, mixed with bran or shorts,
for eight or ten days. Give green or cut feed, wet with water,
during the operation and it will cure.

TO COVER HEAVES.

Oil tar, 1 oz. ; oil amber, 1 oz. Mix, and give 15 or 20 drops
in feed daily.

FOR STIFLE.

First, prepare your medicine. Take 4 qts. white oak bark —
rasped ; put it into 8 qts. water, boil 2 qts. ; turn off the liquid

27

while hot, and add a three-pennj paper of tobacco. Now let
stand until a little above blood heat. Now heat a flat-iron or
a brick, then proceed immediately to put the stifle in its place.
Now bathe it thoroughly with the decoction about five minutes,
then apply your flat-iron as near as the animal will bear, until
all absorlDed. Then give the animal rest for one hour, and if
it should possibly slip out again, repeat as before, observing care
about straining for a few days.

Another Remedy. — One oz. sugar of lead ; 1 pint alcohol.
Mix, and apply three or four times a day,, until a cure is
produced.

SCRATCHES.

Hydrate of potassa, 10 grs. ; pulvd. nutgall, 1-2 cz. ; white
lead, ^ oz. ; pulvd. opium, \ oz. ; hog's lard, \ lb.

Another Remedy. — One quart good vinegar ; 1-2 lb. litharge.
Mix, and simmer down to half the quantity ; strain and apply.

FOR WIND GALLS.

Olive oil, 3 ozs. ; nitric acid, 1 oz. Rubbed in as much daily
or every second or third day as it will bear without starting the
hair.

GREASE.

Two ozs. flour sulphur ; 1-2 oz. verdigris. Mix and apply
after washing.

TO RECRUIT A HORSE HIDE-BOUND, OR OTHERWISE OUT OF SORTS.

Nit. potassa, (or saltpetre,) 4 ozs. ; crude antimony, 1 oz. ;
sulphur, 3 ozs. Nitrate of potassa and antimony should be
finely pulverized, then add the sulphur, and mix them well to-
gether. Dose, a table spoonful of the mixture in a bran mash,
daily.

MAGIC LINIMENT.

Two ounces oil of spike, two ounces origanum, two ounces of
hemlock, two ounces of wormwood, four ounces of sweet oil,
two ounces spirits ammonia, two ounces of gum camphor, two
ounces spirits turpentine, and one quart of proof spirits, nine
per cent., mix well together and bottle tight. For sprains,
bruises, lameness, &c., this liniment is unsurpassed, and origin-
ally cost, (which it is worth,) one hundred dollars. This is the
same liniment, without the turpentine, which has achieved such
wonderful cures for human ailments. For domestic purposes,
it is invaluable.

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LINIMENT FOR OPEN WOUNDS.

Take of sulphate of copper, (copperas,) 1 oz. : white vitriol, 2
ozs. ; muriate of soda, (salt,) 2 oz. ; oil linseed, 2 ozs. ; Orleans
molasses, 8 ozs. ; boil over a slow fire, fifteen minutes, in a
pint of urine, all of the above ingredients. When nearly cold,
add one oz. of oil of vitriol, and 4 ozs. of spirits of turpen-
tine, and bottle for use.

Apply it to the wound with a quilL which will soon set the
wound to discharging, and perform a cure in a few days. Be
careful to keep the wound covered, either by a bandage or a
plaster. Should be applied once or twice a day, ufitil it dis-
charges freely.

SIMPLE LINIMENT.

Put into spirits of turpentine, all the camphor gum it will
cut, when for ordinary purposes it is fit for use ; but if designed
to reduce pain, add as much laudanum as there is turpentine.
This liniment is as good as it is simple.

COUGH POWDERS.
Camphor, 1 oz. ; tartar emetic, 1 oz. ; nit. potassa, 2 ozs. ;
and digitalis. 1 drachm, if you choose.

RECEIPE FOR MAKING CONDITION POWDERS.
Take one pound of ginger, one pound of anisp seed, pulver-
ized, one ounce of fenugreek seed, two ounces of ginseng root
pulverized, one ounce of the seed of sumac berries, pulverized,
one ounce of antimony, mix it with a pound of brown sugar.
This is excellent for coughs, colds, or to give a horse an appetite.

ANTI-SPASMODIC TINCTURE FOR MAN OR HOKSE.

Oil of cajeput, 1 oz. ; oil of cloves, 1 oz. ; oil of pepper-
mint, 1 oz. ; oil of anise, 1 oz. ; alcohol, 1 quart. Mix all well
together and bottle for use. Dose for a horse, 1 oz. every 15
minutes, in a little whiskey and hot water, sweetened with
molasses ; continue until relieved. Dose for a man, 1 tea-
spoonful.

THRUSH.

Cleanse the foot out well, then crowd in fine salt and wash
with beef brine.

PHYSI() BALL.

Barbadoes aloes, 1 lb. ; syrup buckthorn, 3 ozs. ; cod liver
oil, 3 ozSi ; melt the whole and stir till cold. In winter, add
a little water ; make into eighteen pills, and give one every
four hours or as much as will move the bowels.

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DIURETIC DROPS

That are reliable for stoppage of water, foul water, or inflam-
mation of the kidneys, in all eases :

Take of sweet spirits of nitre, 4 ozs. ; balsam copaiba, 2 ozs. ;
spirits of turpentine, 2 ozs. ; oil of juniper, 2 ozs. ; gum cam-
phor, pulverized, 1 oz. ; mix all together and shake well ; bottle,
and it is fit for use, for man or beast, under all circumstances
where a diuretic is required.

Dose : For a horse, one ounce, in half a pint of milk, once
in six hours ; for a man, one teaspoonful, in a tablespoonful of
milk, once in six hours,

Be sure to shake the ingredients up well, before turning out
for use.

TO CURE HORSE DISTEMPER.

If the glands of the neck are not swollen much, give half a
three cent paper of smoking tobacco, morning and evening in
a warm bran mash, and give no hay, but a little fine cut straw,
wet, with bran mixed in. If the glands of the neck are swollen,
then apply a warm poultice made of wheat bran and hot vinegar,
changing as often as the poultices get dry, and be sure and get
do\^n all you can of flax-seed tea, or slippery elm tea will ans-
wer the same purpose, and let this be his constant drink. Be
cautious to keep the horse from taking cold in any way, and keep
on a blanket and thus you will save many a noble animal. Be
cautious never to bleed your horse during the horse distemper,
nor physic him any more than what you will be able to do with
your warm bran mash.

REMEDY FOR BOTS.

Which will remove them in a few days : Take of oil of tur-
pentine, 8 ozs. ; alcohol, 1 qt. ; mix and bottle for use. Dose,
five ounces in the horse's feed, once a day for eight days, and
this will effectually remove the last vestige of the bots.

VEGETABLE CAUSTIC.

Make a strong ley of hickory or oak ashes, put into an iron
kettle and evaporate to the consistency of thin molasses ; then
remove into a sand bath, and continue the evaporation to the
consistency of honey. Keep it in a ground stopped glas jar.

This caustic is very valuable in fistulas, cancers, scrofulous
and indolent ulcers, particularly where there are sinuses, nec-
rosis, (or decay of the bone,) and in all cases where there is

30

proud flesh ; and also to excite a healthy action of the parts.
It removes fungous flesh without exciting inflammation,, and
acts but little except on spongy or soft flesh.

FOR CURING WARTS.

Take corrosive sublimate and red precipitate, powdered and
mixed in equal parts ; will cure the worst wart in the world on
horses and cattle.

If the wart is large and loose, tie a fine strong cord around
it ch)se to the skin. In a short time the wart will come off",
then apply the powder until the wart is eaten down below the
skin, then wash it ofi" and rub on a little sweet oil, and it will
soon heal over. If the wart is dry, scratch it with a pin or the
point of a knife untiFit bleeds, then rub on the powder. It
will make a dry scab ; pick off" the scab and put on the powder
again until it is all eaten off".

HOOF OINTxMENT.

Take rosin, 4 ounces ; beeswax, 5 ounces ; lard 2 lbs. Melt
together, and pour into a pot ; add 3 ounces of turpentine, 2
ounces finely pulverized verdigris, 1 pound tallow ; stir all until
cold. This is one of the best medicines for the hoof ever used.
It is good for corks and bruises of the feet.

CRIBBING

Is a diseased stomach, a belching of wind from the stomach.

To one pound of pulverized charcoal add one pound of soda ;
stir well together, and give one tablespoonful once_ a day for a
few days, and break up the habit as follows :

If a simple habit, arrange the stall so as to make it impos-
sible for him to crib. This you do by making the stall plain,
with a simple box manger in front, rather low, but extending
the whole width of the stall. Immediately over the front edge
of this plain box manger, hang a roller, of about six or seven
inches in diameter, on pivots, which must be so arranged thai it
will turn easily. This roller, extending clear across the manger,
offers the only means within reach upon which to crib. The
horse, in cribbing, will press his front teeth firmly upon this
roller, pulling down and towards him, which causes the roller
to turn from under his mouth, and he is defeated in his efforts.
There is no trouble in breaking a young horse of this habit by
this means. A very good way is to feed the horse from a bas-
ket hung loosely by a cord to something overhead. The roller,
properly adjusted, is however, much the best means.

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HOW TO PREVENT HORSES JUMPING.
Have a good firm strap halter made to fit the head nicely,
with a wide strap stitched to each side, so as to come over the
eyes. Cut holes in this strap over each eye ; over these eye-
holes put fine wire cloth, supported nicely by wire so that it
will not possibly touch the eyes. Before a horse attempts jump-
ing over a fence he will put his head over to calculate hight and
distance he is obliged to jump ; but by looking through the wire
cloth, every thing is so magnified in appearance he isdisconcer-
ed in his efforts to do so, and is afraid to jump.

corGH.

Use elecampane root, horehound and smart weed, with six
red pepper pods to two ounces of ginger root ; boil until all
the strength is extracted, then strain through a flannel ; to
every gallon of this extract add one quart of molasses. Grive
one gill once a day on his feed, or from an ox horn.
RING BONE AND SPAVIN.

Equal parts of soft soap, spirits of turpentine and FFF am-
monia, mix and apply and in two hours rub with pulverized
chalk. Next day wash off and repeat.
JOCKEY TRICKS.

How to make a foundered and spavined horse go off limber.
Take tinct. of cayenne, 1 oz. ; laudanum, 2 ozs. ; alcohol, 1
pint ; rub the shoulders well with warm water, then rub the
above on his shoulders and back-bone ; give him one ounce of
laudanum and a pint of gin ; put it down his throat with a junk
bottle ; put his feet in warm water, as hot as he can bear it ;
take a little spirits of turpentine and rub it at the bottom part
of his feet with a spong after taking them out of the warm wa-
ter ; drive him about half a mile or a mile, until he comes out
limber as a rag. If he does not surrender to his pain, tie a
thin cord around the end of his tongue.

To make old horses appear young. Take tincture of asa-
foetida, one ounce; tincture cantharides, one ounce; oil of
cloves, one ounce ; oil of cinnamon, one ounce ; antimony, two
ounces ; fenugreek, one ounce ; fourth proof brandy, half a
gallon ; let stand ten days, then give ten drops in one gallon of
water.

To make a horse appear as if foundered. Take a fine wire,
or any substitute, and fasten it around the pastern joint at night ;
smooth the hair down over it nicely, and by morning he will
walk as stiff as if foundered.

32

To make a horse fieshy in a short time. Feed with buck-
wheat bran, to which add a little of the shorts ; keep in a dark
stable. Half day's drive will make a horse fatted in this way
poor.

To make a horse stand by his feed and not eat it. Grease
the front teeth and roof of the mouth with common tallow, and
he will not eat until you wash it out.

To make a true pulling horse balk. Take tincture of can-
tharides, one oz., and corrosive sublimate, one drachm. Mix
and bathe the shoulders at night.

To distinguish between distemper and glanders. The dis-
charge from the nose, if glanders, will sink in water ; if dis-
temper, it will not.

To make a horse appear as if he had the glanders. Melt
fresh butter and pour in his ear.

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