2 ST ET RE OTST ST © ee er emer mv res teem ee 3 1761 08166409 6 WANNA oe oh oe ee ee ee eee) ee ee A EA EL LTT TT SerVr = : PO PT ee ER IR IW Te BERR OND IRs DONT UTE TES ED TERE ORE TI ey ata ra or een te b= Pree PDI AEA LP LIES ODEN Ee AAS RT RE 8 tte See nm ee ON eenee - ery, ee he few" nh ‘ ‘h,) No h a rea ety : 7 Yaga , a) ; ayer i oe . ou, : pe J ‘> & kee > @ . ” RS este ont CEE Bao i Sl YS “~—tie & é o wee NEW, ZEALAND, A TALE OF THE GOOD OLD TIMES; ea meio LORY OF THE WAR IN. THE NORTH AGAINST THE CHIEF HEKE, IN THE YEAR 1845. TOLD BY AN OLD CHIEF OF THE NGAPUHI TRIBE. BY A PAKEHA MAORI. WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY THE EARL OF PEMBROKE. LONDON: mecHARD BENTLEY AND SON, Publishers tn Ordinary to Her Wajestp the Queen, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. 1884. My i a, ah me WS ae 6h REND NM EN a a Poee\ tas Hesk tae vree , ts ny TRARY d Lis lie sein eT on ecgerennn f Pm, ‘a. ye We Fs ci) | z 7 CHISWICK PRESS —C. WHITTINGHAM AND CC ge (CHANCERY LANE, — i See cen: A hes pe SC) apt Eo SoS FZ 4) nee ton Lee ©: DEC.9 11895 CONTENTS. . ZAYASNTRODUCTION Preface to the Crinindl Edition “> CuapTer I. Introductory—First .View of New Zealand—First Sight of the Natives, and First Sensations experienced by a mere Pakeha—A Maori Chief’s notions of trading in the Old Times The —A dissertation on “ Courage ”__A few words on Dress Chief’s Soliloguy—The Maori Cry of Welcome Cuapter II. The Market Price of a Pakeha—The value of a Pakeha “ as such””—Maori Hospitality in the Good Old Times—A Re- spectable Friend—Maori Mermaids—My Notions of the value - of Gold—How I got on Shore . : d F : CuarptTer III. A Wrestling Match—Beef against Melons—The Victor gains a loss—‘‘ Our Chief” —His Speech—His status in the Tribe—Death of “ Melons ”—Rumours of Peace and War— Getting the Pa in fighting order—My Friend the “ Relation Eater ”—Expectation and Preparation—Arrival of Doubtful Friends—Sham Fight—The “ Taki”—The War Dance— Another Example of Maori Hospitality—Crocodile’s Tears— £ = PRYAD AT va: 2) OES Ce} Ys aN Rees I Mel Ey A N XNXiil 14 vi CONTENTS. Loose Notions about Heads—Tears of Blood—Brotherly Love— Capital Felony—Peace CuapTser IV. A Little affair of ‘ Flotsam and Jetsam ’’—Rebellion Crushed in the Bud—A Pakeha’s House Sacked—Maori Law—A Maori Lawsuit—Affairs thrown into Chancery - : CHaptTer V. Every Englishman’s House is his Castle—My Estate and Castle—How I purchased my Estate—Native Titles to Land, of what Nature—Value of Land in New Zealand—Land Com- missioners—The Triumphs of Eloquence—Magna Charta ° Cuartrer VI. How I kept House—Maori Freebooters—An Ugly Cus- tomer-——The “ Suaviter in Modo ”—A single Combat to amuse the Ladies—The true Maori Gentleman—Character of the Maori People ; ‘ ; : : ° Cuapter VII. Excitement caused by first Contact with Europeans—The Two Great Institutions of Maori Land—The Muru—The Tapu—Instances of Legal Robbery—Descriptions and Ex- amples of the Muru—Profit and Loss—Explanation of some of the Workings of the Law of Muru_ : ° : 7 Cuaprer VIII. The Muru falling ito Disuse—Why—Examples of the T'apu—The Personal Tapu—Evading the Tapu—The Under- taker’s Tapu—How I got Tabooed—Frightful Difficulties— How I got out of them—The War Tapu—Maori War Cus- toms ° ° ° . . e e e e Cuaprer IX. The Tapu Tohunga—The Maori Oracle—Responses of the Oracle—Priesteraft ; . ; . . ‘ . Page 24 52 60 67 81 116 CONTENTS. CHAPTER X. The Priest evokes a Spirit—The Consequences—A Maori Tragedy—The “ Tohunga” again CHAPTER XI. The Local Tapu—The Taniwha—The Battle on Motiti— Death of Tiki Whenua—Reflections—Brutus, Marcus Antonius, and Tiki Whenua—Suicide J : : : ; CuapTer XII. The Tapa— Instances of—The Storming of Mokoia — Pomare—Hongi Ika—Tareha—Honour amongst Thieves CuarTer XIII. “ My Rangatira ”—The respective Duties of the Pakeha and his Rangatira—Public Opinion—A “ Pakeha Kino’’—Descrip- tion of my Rangatira—His Exploits and Misadventures—His Moral Principles—Decline in the numbers of the Natives— | Proofs of former Large Population—Ancient Forts—Causes of Decrease CuarTeR XIV Trading in the Old Times—The Native Difficulty—Virtue its own Reward—Rule Britannia—Death of my Chief—His Dying Speech—Rescue—How the World goes Round . CHAPTER XV, Mana—Young New Zealand—The Law of England—“ Pop goes the weasel”—Right if we have Might—God save the Queen—Good Advice : History oF THE WAR IN THE Nortu or New ZEALAND AGAINST THE CureF HEKE : . A F 129 140 165 181 INTRODUCTION. De ARAN the good old times of Conquest and 3 Colonization (I like to be particular y}) about my dates and places), the civi- KSSH lized nations of the day followed a simple policy in regard to the savage races with whom they came in contact, which may be roughly described as going their own way, and punishing the natives if they didn’t conform to it, without troubling themselves much about what the aforesaid natives thought or felt on the subject. If they understood the meaning of it so much the better for them, if they did not it could not be helped. Holding them- selves to be morally and intellectually far superior to the savages, they maintained that it was the savage’s business to understand and conform to their notions, and not their business to regard the savage’s. As for giving savages the rights of civilized men it was seldom thought of; savages were to be treated as such. I do not exactly know when this sort of native policy was first practised, but I know that it has b x INTRODUCTION. lasted, with modifications, even to our day, and is to be seen in full working order in more than one part of the globe. And let me remark (pace the Philanthropists) that it is not always the unwisest or cruellest policy that can be followed, for this reason, that it is simple, consistent, and easily understood. The man or the nation that consistently follows its own path, turning aside for no consideration, soon becomes at least thoroughly known if not intelligently understood. And misconceptions and misunderstandings are the most fruitful of all causes of bloodshed between civi- lized and savage races. Let me confess, moreover, that there have been moments when I have felt certain carnal hankerings after that same old native policy. When, for instance, I had just left the French colony of New Caledonia, where amicable relations with the natives were pre- served, and the country made as safe as Italy from end to end by the simple expedient of regularly and invariably executing a certain number of natives for every white man that they disposed of, without much inquiry into the motives of the murderers; and had returned to New Zealand to hear of a most lively massacre at Poverty Bay, perpetrated by three hundred Maori gentlemen, very well up in their Old Testaments and extremely practical in the use of the New,’ who having satisfied the more pressing de- 1 They made cartridges of them. These were the Hau Haus, a sect of Maories who, when the prestige of Christianity first ? iv INTRODUCTION. xi mands of their appetite upon the field of their exploit, had shown the sacred light of civilization that was burning within them by potting the remainder of the corpses in tins snd sending them as presents to their friends in the country, and had then departed to the mountains, filled with the comfortable conviction that nothing worse than imprisonment would follow the improbable event of their capture, that after a year or two of most enjoyable skirmishing the matter would be allowed to drop, and that they would most of them go to their graves well-honoured and un- hung.’ began to wane in the native mind, abolished the New Testament, retained the Old, which was more to their taste, and by mixing with it a large quantity of their old heathenism, produced a religion entirely devoted theoretically and practically to plunder and blood. 1 TI regret to say that the strict propriety (according to the received code of that day) with which the Poverty-Bay mas- sacre, and the fighting which followed it, were prosecuted on both sides, was marred by the scandalous behaviour of a settler whose name I forget; this man’s wife and child were mutilated, killed, &c., at the massacre; it was done in a most correct way, but somehow made him most unaccountably and unreasonably angry. He joined the expedition that was sent in pursuit of the murderers, and in one of the first engagements some dozen of them were made prisoners. At night he approached them, and, taking treacherous advantage of their guileless confidence, asked them if they had participated in the massacre, feast, &c. ; and they, never dreaming that they had anything to fear from the admission, innocently answered in the affirmative, whereon this monster, knowing well that the poor fellows would escape capital, or even very serious, punishment, on the grounds that they were prisoners of war, or had brown skins, or excellent xi INTRODUCTION. At moments like these I have had ideas on native policy that I dare not utter in the latitude of Exeter Hall, and the era of the nineteenth century. But when New Zealand was colonized the feeling of the English public was distinctly philanthropical towards native races (especially at a distance), and the old policy was thoroughly discarded, for one, in its general theory and intention at least, more en- lightened and more humane. Speaking broadly, I think one can see all through the chequered course of our Maori policy an earnest desire to treat the native as a man and a brother; to give him the status of a civilized man whenever it was possible to motives, or a deficient moral sense, or a defective education, deliberately shot the whole lot with his revolver, I need hardly mention that had this act been performed by a Maori upon white men by way of “utu” (revenge, payment) for some of his tribe that had been killed, it would have been quite ‘tiku” (correct, proper); but for a white man so to behave was scan- dalous. I forget what punishment was awarded him: let us hope he got what he deserved ; and may this story be a warn- ing to those who let their angry passions rise. The leader of the Hau Hau expedition was a ruffian called Te Kooti. The chief of the native contingent that joined in their pursuit was a Maori, of the old-fashioned sort, named Ropata. A friend of mine asked him one day what he thought would be done with Te Kooti if he were taken. ‘Oh, you'll make him a judge,” answered Ropata, coolly. ‘ What do you mean?” asked my friend. ‘ Well,” said Ropata, “the last two rebels you caught you made native assessors, and Te Kooti’s a much greater man than either of them; so I don’t see how you can do less than make him a judge. But you won't if I catch him,” he added, with a grin. : het a i lee INTRODUCTION. xiii do so; and when not possible to consider and make due allowance for the fact of his being uncivilized, and to guide and lead him towards civilization by just and generous treatment, and appeals to his moral and intellectual faculties. I do not wish to dwell upon the dangerous extra- vagances into which such a policy might and did occasionally run—such as letting off one native cut- throat by treating him as a civilized prisoner of war, and reprieving the next on the ground that he wasa poor untutored savage who knew no better, to the utter destruction and confusion of all sense of power, justice, and security—great as was the amount of mischief that they did, but will confine myself to what I believe was the main cause of the almost total failure of this noble and, in the main, plausible policy. . It is quite evident that to give it a chance of suc- cess it must have been founded on a _ thorough understanding of the native character. It is no use making signs to 2a man who cannot understand them, it is no use uttering the most lovely moral precepts in language that is sure to mislead him. It was in this first necessary step that I hold that we failed, with brilliant individual exceptions no doubt, who, however, only served to make the confusion worse with their gleams of light. Narrow-minded Enthusiasm, Ignorance, and Care- lessness all contributed their quota to the mischief, and their favourite blunder consisted in jumping at conclusions concerning native character from certain xiv INTRODUCTION. analogies with our own. It did not occur to many of us that actions. which marked the presence of certain qualities in the English character, might mark the presence of very different ones in the Maori, and vice versd, or that qualities which marked the presence of certain other qualities in the English- man might be very differently accompanied in the native; we did not realize the fact that the Maori reflected, argued, and acted in a way that was often as incomprehensible to us as our way was to him. When we observed a band of native converts sing- ing a hymn before advancing to battle we were filled with admiration at their piety, without perceiving that those deeper religious feelings which alone could have produced such a manifestation amongst Eng- lishmen were entirely absent... When Christianity 1 The Maori notion of prayer reaches no higher than the thing we call an incantation. One day I was talking to the old Pakeha Maori (7.e. a white man who lives amongst the Maories) on the subject of missionary labour. At last he said, “ T’ll tell you a story that will establish your name for ever at Exeter Hall, only you musn’t tell it quite the same way that I do. I was here at the time when both the Protestant and Roman Catholic missionaries were first beginning to make their way in the country; and the Maories of my tribe used to come to me and ask me which had the greatest ‘mana’ (i.e. fortune, _ prestige, power, strength)—the Protestant God or the Romanist one. I was always a good Churchman, and used to tell them that the Protestant God could lick the other into fits. There was an old Irish sailor about five miles from me who used to back up the Roman Catholic God, but I had along start of him, and moreover was the best fighting man of the two, which went INTRODUCTION. XV spread through the tribes with amazing rapidity, we rejoiced over their capability for accepting the doc- trines of high and pure religion, never perceiving along way. Inashort time I had about two hundred of the most muscular, blood-thirsty, hard-fighting Protestants you could wish to see. “Well; it so happened that one day we had a little difference with some of our neighbours, and were drawn up on one side of a gully all ready to charge. I liked the fun of fighting in those days, and was rigged out in nothing but a cartridge-box and belt, with a2 plume of feathers in my hair, and a young woman to carry my ammunition for me; moreover, I had been put in command of the desperate young bloods of the tribe, and burned to distinguish myself, feeling the commander of the Old Guard _ at Waterloo quite an insignificant person in regard to myself in point of responsibility and honour. *‘ Lying down in the fern, we waited impatiently for the signal to charge ; had not we, on the last occasion worth speak- ing of, outrun our elders, and been nearly decimated in conse- quence? Shall it not be different now? See! there is the great war-chief, the commander of the ‘Taua,’ coming this way (he was a real ‘ toa’ of the old stamp, too seldom found among the degenerate Maories of the present day). Little cared he for the new faith that had sprung up in the last generation; his skill with the spear, and the incantations of his ‘ Tohungas’ (i.e. priests or magicians), had kept him safe through many a bitter tussle; his ‘mana’ was great. Straight to me he came and addressed me thus :—‘ Look here, young fellow! I’ve done the incantations and made it all square with my God; but you say that you’ve got a God stronger than mine, and a lot of our young fellows go with you; there’s nothing like having two Gods on our side, so you fellows do the proper business with him, and then we'll fight.” Could anything have been more practical and business-like than this? But I was quite stuck up; for though I could have repeated a prayer from the liturgy xvi INTRODUCTION. that they accepted it simply because they thought from our superiority in ships, arms, tools, and ma- terial prosperity in general, that the ‘‘ Mana” (ze., luck, power, prestige) of Christianity must be greater than that of their old superstition, and would be quite ready to leave it again when they found out this was a mistake, their minds being as void of the higher religious elements as those of many savages far below them in intellectual powers. When we heard of a native chief supplying his enemy with food or ammunition to enable him to carry on the war we were charmed with his generous chivalry, and immediately endowed him with all the virtues that usually accompany such behaviour in an Eng- lishman, blind to the fact that the chief simply liked fichting as we might like eating or sleeping, and myself, my worthy converts, who philosophically and rightly looked upon religion merely as a means to an end (¢.e. killing the greatest possible quantity of enemies), were unable to pro- duce a line of scripture amongst them. ‘«¢ There was an awkward pause; our commander was furious. Suddenly one discovers that he has a hymn-book in his pocket. General exultation! ‘Now!’ cries the old chief, foaming at the mouth with excitement, ‘go down upon your knees (I know that’s the custom with your God) and repeat the charm after him. Mind you don’t make a mistake, now, for if one word is wrong, the whole thing will be turned topsy-turvy, and we shall be thrashed.’ « And then, having repeated one hymn word for word on our knees, I and my converts charged, and walked into the Amorites no end; but whether it was the hymn or the fighting that did it is of course an open question to this day.” INTRODUCTION. xvii furnished his enemy with arms and ammunition just as we might furnish one’s cook with money to buy meat with.* | By radical misconceptions, such as these, we 1 Of the Maori’s passion for fighting for its own sake, with the chivalrous appearance that it somewhat misleadingly bore, I will give an instance. A certain chief had a missionary whom he desired to get rid of. Whether he was tired of his sermons, disliked his ritual, or what, I cannot say. However, he for- warded him on to another chief, with his compliments, as a present. Chief number two not being in need of a chaplain, having no living vacant, and having perhaps, too, a suspicion that the missionary was unsound in some respect from the careless way he was disposed of, declined him, and returned him uniried. Chief number one was insulted, and declared that if chief number two had not known his superiority in arms and ammuni- tion, he would not have dared to behave in such manner, When this came to the ears of number two, he divided his arms, &c., into two halves, and sent one to the enemy, with an invitation to war. A distinguished friend of mine in New Zealand once asked a Maori chief who had fought against us on the Waikato, why, when he had command of a certain road, he did not attack the ammunition and provision trains? ‘“ Why, you fool!” answered the Maori, much astonished, “If we had stolen their powder and food, how could they have fought ?”’ Sometimes two villages would get up a little war, and the inhabitants, after potting at each other all day, would come out of their ‘“‘ pas” in the evening and talk over their day’s sport in the most friendly manner. “I nearly bagged your brother to-day.” ‘Ah, but you should have seen how I made your old father-in-law skip!” and so on. After one or two had been really killed, they would become more in earnest. I have heard old Archdeacon , of Tauranga, relate how in one of these petty wars he has known the defenders of a XVlil INTRODUCTION. succeeded in creating in our imaginations an ideal Maori about as true to the life as a Fenimore Cooper Indian. And then we proceeded to impress the real Maori with moral lessons that he could not under- stand, and with practical examples that he inter- preted all wrong, to appeal to qualities and ideas that he did not possess, and ignore those that he did possess, till in spite of our patience and good- will we became puzzled by and disgusted with him, and he contemptuous of and utterly bewildered by us. I have heard several comments upon us and our policy from intelligent natives, none of them very flattering to our sagacity or consistency, but I will only give one which struck me as being a most strik- ing comment upon a policy that aimed at conciliation, forbearance, and patient improvement of the Maori. ‘‘ You are a good people, but you have no fixed plan and no understanding either in matters of peace or war. No man can tell when you will fight or when you will give presents to buy peace, or at what pa send out to their adversaries to say they were short of provisions, who immediately sent them a supply to go on with. Also how he has performed service on Sunday between two belligerent pas, the inhabitants of which came out to pray, and met with the most perfect amity, returning to their pas when service was over, to recommence hostilities on Monday morning. The fact is, that they were, as the Pakeha Maori says, a race so demoralized by perpetual war that they had got to look instinc- tively upon fighting as the chief object in hfe. How difficult it was for the average Englishman to see this at first, and how misleading traits such as I have mentioned might be to hin, it is not hard to imagine. ie eee = 9 — are cess eS INTRODUCTION. xix sudden moment you will stop doing one and begin the other. No man can tell your reasons nor the meaning of what you do.” This man had evidently caught some vague glimmerings of the meaning of our policy which only confused him the more. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing. From the faithful pictures of Maori character, ideas, and feelings contained in these two little books, the observant reader will easily perceive how mistakes and misconceptions as to what they were, and might become, and as to how they should be treated, sprang up in the English mind. It is true that the Maori question, with all its hopes and fears, has practically come to anend. The bubble of Maori civilization has burst, the idea, that seemed at one time not unlikely to become an actual fact, of a native race becoming truly Christianized and civilized, and prospering side by side with their white brothers, has gone where many a noble and well-fought-for idea has gone before. The true level of the Maori, intellectually and morally, has become tolerably well known; moreover, his numbers are diminishing year by year. But the English nation is, and I hope always will be, in contact with many nations of different blood and various forms and degrees of civilization, and as long as this is the case it cannot be too much im- pressed upon that extremely powerful and somewhat hasty and headstrong body, the British public, that human nature is not the same all over the world, that one man’s meat is another man’s poison, that xx INTRODUCTION. there is no code either of logic or of feeling or of morals universally accepted by humanity, that every difference in custom makes some difference in mind 3 so that (if that public wishes, as I believe it does, to manage the races with whom England comes in con- tact, not so much by force as by intelligent and beneficial moral influence) the first thing to be done is to gain an unwarped, accurate, and thorough know- ledge of the customs, character, and opinions of the races in question. If these two little books should suggest to any careless Englishman that foreigners of dark com- plexion are not all like either those white men who seem to have got into brown or black skins by mis- take, whom one reads about in anti-slavery books and some missionary reports, or those equally tire- some black dummies whom one reads about in another sort of book who have no marked charac- teristic or intelligible custom except shooting spears and arrows at people for no apparent reason, I shall be glad to have introduced them to an English public ; and let me assure those who care more for amuse- ment than instruction that they will be amply repaid by their perusal. I hope the Pakeha Maori will pardon my imper- tinence in giving a personal sketch of him to his English readers on the plea that his writing would not be.complete without one. | He was, I believe, sixty years old when I first saw him, but, in spite of his age, looked the finest man for strength, activity, and grace I had ever seen. eT! INTRODUCTION. _XXi Six feet three in height and big in proportion, with a symmetry of shape that almost disguised his immense size, I felt I could well understand the stories I had heard of his popularity and his feats amongst the Maories, especially when I watched the keen, bright expression of his humorous Irish face. In manner and conversation he was the very oppo- site of what one would expect of a man who had lived since his boyhood among savages. With areal love, and a considerable knowledge of literature, a keen appreciation of all intellectual excellence, and a most delightful humour, I think I never came across so charming a talker as the man whom I may not inaptly christen the “ Lever ” of New Zealand. PEMBROKE. DEC 9 1895 —t2_ Se OF LAV ep A Rif HE-ORIGINAL EDITION. °)O the English reader, and to most of ~\ those who have arrived in New Zea- VY land within the last thirty years, it may be necessary to state that the descriptions of Maori life and manners of past times found in these sketches owe nothing to fic- tion. The different scenes and incidents are given exactly as they occurred, and all the persons de- scribed are real persons. Contact with the British settlers has of late years effected a marked and rapid change in the manners and mode of life of the natives, and the Maori of the present day are as unlike what they were when I first saw them as they are still un- like a civilised people or British subjects. The writer has therefore thought it might be XXiV PREFACE. worth while to place a few sketches of old Maori life on record before the remembrance of them has quite passed away; though in doing so he has by no means exhausted an interesting subject, and a more full and particular delineation of old Maori life, manners, and history has yet to be written. OLD NEW ZEALAND: A TALE OF THE GOOD OLD TIMES. BY A PAKEHA MAORI. “ Of Anthropophagi, and men whose heads _Do grow BETWEEN their shoulders.” wala Ps | i; c 7 rey > ] “ | - : >. 7?) * D, = R TM \ON fi 1 CHAPTER I. Introductory.—First view of New Zealand.—First sight of the natives, and first sensations experienced by a mere Pakeha.— A Maori chief’s notions of trading in the old times.—A disser- tation on “courage.”—A few words on dress.—The chief’s soliloguy.—The Maori cry of welcome. H! those good old times, when first I came to New Zealand, we shall never see their like again. Since then the world seems to have gone wrong some- how. A dull sort of world this now. The very sun does not seem to me to shine as bright as it used. Pigs and potatoes have degenerated ; and everything seems ‘flat, stale, and unprofitable.” But those were the times !—the ‘‘ good old times ”— before Governors were invented, and law, and justice, and all that. When every one did as he liked,— except when his neighbours would not let him, (the more shame for them,)—when there were no taxes, or duties, or public works, or public to require them. Who cared then whether he owned a coat ?—or . B 2 OLD NEW ZHALAND. believed in shoes or stockings? The men were bigger and stouter in those days; and the women,— ah! Money was useless and might go a begging. A sovereign was of no use except to make a hole in and hang it in a child’s ear. The few I brought went that way, and I have seen them swapped for shillings, which were thought more becoming. What cared 1? A fish-hook was worth a dozen of them, and I had lots of fish-hooks. Little did I think in those days that I should ever see here towns and villages, banks and insurance offices, prime ministers and bishops; and hear sermons preached, and see. men hung, and all the other plagues of civilization. Iam a melancholy man. I feel somehow as if I had got older. Jam nouse in these dull times. I mope about in solitary places, exclaiming often, ‘‘ Oh ! where are those good old times?” and echo, or some young Maori whelp from the Three Kings, answers from behind a bush,—No HEA. I shall not state the year in which I first saw the mountains of New Zealand appear above the sea ; there is a false suspicion getting about that | am growing old. This must be looked down, so I will at present avoid dates. I always held a theory that time was of no account in New Zealand, and I do — believe I was right up to the time of the arrival of the first Governor. The natives hold this opinion still, especially those who are in debt: so I will just say it was in the good old times, long ago, that, from the deck of a small trading schooner in which I had taken my passage from somewhere, I first cast eyes OLD NEW ZEALAND. 3 on Maori land. It was Maori land then; but alas! what is it now? Success to you, O King of Waikato. May your mana never be less!—long may you hold at bay the demon of civilization, though fall at last I fear you must. Plutus with golden hoof is tramp- ling on your landmarks. He mocks the war-song; but should J see your fall, at least one Pakeha Maori shall raise the tang: ; and with flint and shell as of old shall the women lament you. Let me, however, leave these melancholy thoughts for a time, forget the present, take courage, and talk about the past. I have not got on shore yet; a thing I must accomplish as a necessary preliminary to looking about me, and telling what I saw. I do not understand the pakeha way of beginning a story in the middle; so to start fair, I must fairly get on shore, which, | am surprised to find, was easier to do than to describe. The little schooner neared the land, and as we came closer and closer, I began in a most unaccount- able manner to remember all the tales I had ever heard of people being baked in ovens, with cabbage and potato ‘“‘fixins.” I had before this had some considerable experience of ‘savages,’ but as they had no regular system of domestic cookery of the nature I have hinted at, and being, as I was in those days, a mere pakeha (a character I have since learned to despise), I felt, to say the least, rather curious as to the then existing demand on shore for butchers’ meat. The ship sailed on, and I went below and loaded 4 OLD NEW ZHALAND. my pistols; not that I expected at all to conquer the country with them, but somehow because I could not help it. We soon came to anchor in a fine harbour before the house of the very first settler who had ever entered it, and to this time he was the only one. He had, however, a few Europeans in his employ; and there was at some forty miles distance a sort of nest of English, Irish, Scotch, Dutch, French, and American runaways from South Sea whalers, with whom were also congregated certain other individuals of the pakeha race, whose manner of arrival in the country was not clearly accounted for, and to enquire into which was, as I found afterwards, considered extremely impolite, and a great breach of bienséance. They lived in a half savage state, or to speak cor- rectly, in a savage and-a-half state, being greater savages by far than the natives themselves. I must, however, turn back a little, for I perceive I am not on shore yet. The anchoring of a vessel of any size, large or small, in a port of New Zealand, in those days, was an event of no small importance; and, accordingly, from the deck we could see the shore crowded by several hundreds of natives, all in a great state of - excitement, shouting and running about, many with spears and clubs in their hands, and altogether looking to the inexperienced new-comer very much as if they were speculating on an immediate change of diet. I must say these at least were my impres- sions on seeing the mass of shouting, gesticulating, tattooed fellows, who were exhibiting before us, and OLD NEW ZEALAND. 5 who all seemed to be mad with excitement of some sort or other. Shortly after we came to anchor, a boat came off, in which was Mr. ——, the settler I have mentioned, and also the principal chief of the tribe of natives inhabiting this part of the country. Mr. gave me a hearty welcome to New Zealand, and also an invitation to his house, telling me I was welcome to make it my home for any unlimited time, till I had one of my own. The chief also—having made some enquiries first of the captain of the schooner, such as whether I was a rangatira, if I had plenty of taonga (goods) on board, and other par- ticulars; and having been answered by the captain in the most satisfactory manner,—came up to me and gave me a most sincere welcome. (I love sin- cerity.) He would have welcomed me, however, had I been as poor as Job, for pakehas were, in those days, at an enormous premium. Even Job, at the worst (a pakeha Job), might be supposed to have an old coat, or a spike nail, or a couple of iron hoops left on hand, and these were ‘‘ good trade” in the times I speak of; and under a process well under- stood at the time by my friend the chief, were sure to change hands soon after his becoming aware of their whereabouts. His idea of trade was this :— He took them, and never paid for them till he took something else of greater value, which, whatever it - might be, he never paid for till he made a third still heavier haul. He always paid just what he thought fit to give, and when he chose to withdraw his patronage from any pakeha who might be getting G OLD NEW ZEALAND. too knowing for him, and extend it to some newer arrival, he never paid for the last “ lot of trade;” but, to give ,him his due, he allowed his pakeha friends to make the best bargain they could with the rest of the tribe, with the exception of a few of his nearest relations, over whose interests he would watch. So, after all, the pakeha would make a living; but I have never heard of one of the old traders who got rich by trading with the natives: there were too many drawbacks of the nature I have mentioned, as well as others unnecessary to mention just yet, which prevented it. I positively vow and protest to you, gentle and patient reader, that if ever I get safe on shore, I will do my best to give you satisfaction; let me get once on shore, and I am all right: but unless I get my feet on terrd firma, how can I ever begin my tale of the good old times? As long as I am on board ship I am cramped and crippled, and a mere slave to Greenwich time, and can’t get on. Some people, I am aware, would make a dash at it, and manage the thing without the aid of boat, canoe, or life preserver ; but such people are, for the most part, dealers in fiction, which I am not: my story is a true story, not ‘‘ founded on fact,” but fact itself, and so I can- not manage to get on shore a moment sooner than circumstances will permit. It may be that I ought to have landed before this; but I must confess I don’t know any more about the right way to tell a story, than a native minister knows how to “ come” a war dance. I declare the mention of the war OLD NEW ZEALAND. 7 dance calls up a host of reminiscences, pleasurable and painful, exhilarating and depressing, in such a way as no one but a few, a very few, pakeha Maori, can understand. Thunder!—but no; let me get ashore; how can I dance on the water, or before I ever knew how? On shore I will get this time, I am determined, in spite of fate—so now for it. The boat of my friend Mr. —— being about to re- turn to the shore, leaving the chief and Mr. on board, and I seeing the thing had to be done, plucked up courage, and having secretly felt the priming of my pistols under my coat, got into the boat. I must here correct myself. I have said, “ plucked up courage,” but that is not exactly my meaning. The fact is, kind reader, if you have followed me thus far, you are about to be rewarded for your per- severance. I am determined to make you as wise as I am myself on at least one important subject, and that is not saying a little, let me inform you, as I can hardly suppose you have made the discovery for yourself on so short an acquaintance. Falstaff, who was a very clever fellow, and whose word cannot be doubted, says—‘t The better part of valour is dis- cretion.” Now, that being the case, what in the name of Achilles, Hector, and Colonel Gold (he, I mean Achilles, was a rank coward, who went about knocking people on the head, being himself next thing to invulnerable, and who could not be hurt till he turned his back to the enemy. There is a deep moral in this same story about Achilles which per- 8 OLD NEW ZEALAND. haps, by and bye, I may explain to you)—what, I say again, in the name of everything valorous, can the worser part of valour be, if “ discretion” be the better? The fact is, my dear sir, I don’t believe in courage at all, nor ever did; but there is something far better, which has carried me through many serious scrapes with écldt and safety; I mean the appearance of courage. If you have this you may drive the world before you. As for real courage, I do not believe there can be any such thing. A man who sees himself in danger of being killed by his enemy and is not in a precious fright, is simply not courageous but mad. The man who is not frightened because he cannot see the danger, is a person of weak mind—a fool—who ought to be locked up lest he walk into a well with eyes open; but the appear- ance of courage, or rather, as I deny the existence of the thing itself, that appearance which is thought to be courage, that is the thing will carry you through! —get you made K.C.B., Victoria Cross, and all that! Men by help of this quality do the most heroic actions, being all the time ready to die of mere fright, but keeping up a good countenance all the time. Here is the secret—pay attention, it is worth much money—if ever you get into any desperate battle or skirmish, and feel in such a state of mortal fear that you almost wish to be shot to get rid of it, just say to yourself—‘If I am _ so _ preciously frightened, what must the other fellow be?” The thought will refresh you; your own self-esteem will answer that of course the enemy is more frightened OLD NEW ZEALAND. 9 than you are, consequently, the nearer you feel to running away the more reason you have to stand. Look at the last gazette of the last victory, where thousands of men at one shilling per diem, minus certain very serious deductions, ‘‘ covered themselves with glory.” The thing is clear: the other fellows ran first, and that is all about it! My secret is a very good secret; but one must of course do the thing properly; no matter of what kind the danger is, you must look it boldly in the face and keep your wits about you, and the more frightened you get the more determined you must be—to keep up appear- ances—and half the danger is gone at once. So now, having corrected myself, as well as given some valuable advice, I shall start again for the shore by saying that I plucked up a very good appearance of courage and got on board the boat. For the honour and glory of the British nation, of which I considered myself in some degree a repre- sentative on this momentous occasion, I had dressed myself in one of my best suits. My frock coat was, I fancy, “ the thing ;” my waistcoat was the result of much and deep thought, in cut, colour, and material —lI may venture to affirm that the like had not been often seen in the southern hemisphere. My tailor has, as I hear, long since realized a fortune and re- tired, in consequence of the enlightenment he at dif- ferent times received from me on the great principles of, not clothing, but embellishing the human subject. My hat looked down criticism, and my whole turn- out such as I calculated would “ astonish the na- 10 OLD NEW ZHALAND. tives,” and cause awe and respect for myself indi- vidually and the British nation in general, of whom I thought fit to consider myself no bad sample. Here I will take occasion to remark that some atten- tion to ornament and elegance in the matter of dress is not only allowable but commendable. Man*is the only beast to whom a discretionary power has been left in this respect: why then should he not take a hint from nature, and endeavour to beautify his per- son? Peacocks and birds of paradise could no doubt live and get fat though all their feathers were the colour of a Quaker’s leggings, but see how they are ornamented! Nature has, one would say, exhausted herself in beautifying them. Look at the tiger and leopard! Could not they murder without their stripes and spots ?—but see how their coats are painted! Look at the flowers—at the whole universe —and you will see everywhere the ornamental com- bined with the useful. Look, then, to the cut and colour of your coat, and do not laugh at the Maori of past times, who, not being “seized” of a coat because he has never been able to seize one, carves and tattoos legs, arms, and face. The boat is, however, darting towards the shore, rapidly propelled by four stout natives. My friend —-— and the chief are on board. ‘The chief has got his eye on my double gun, which is hanging up in the cabin. He takes it down and examines it closely. He is a good judge of a gun. It is the best tupara he has ever seen, and his speculations run something very like this:—“ A good gun, a first-rate gun; I cures OLD NEW ZHALAND. 11 must have this; I must tapw it before I leave the ship [here he pulls a piece of the fringe from his cloak and ties it round the stock of the gun, thereby rendering it impossible for me to sell, give away, or dispose of it in any way to anyone but himself]; I wonder what the pakeha will want for it! I will promise him as much flax or as many pigs as ever he likes for it. True, I have no flax just now, and am short of pigs, they were almost all killed at the last hahunga; but if he is in a hurry he can buy the flax or pigs from the people, which ought to satisfy him. Perhaps he would take a piece of land!—that would be famous. I would give him a piece quite close to the kainga, where I would always have him close to me; I hope he may take the land; then I should have two pakehas, him and All the inland chiefs would envy me. This is getting too knowing; he has taken to hiding his best goods of late, and sell- ing them before I knew he had them. It’s just the same as thieving, and I won’t stand it. Hesold three muskets the other day to the Ngatiwaki, and I did not know he had them, or I should have taken them. I could have paid for them some time or another. It was wrong, wrong, very wrong, to let that tribe have those muskets. He is not their pakeha; let them look for a pakeha for themselves. Those Ngati- waki are getting too many muskets—those three make sixty-four they have got besides two tupara. _ Certainly we have a great many more, and the Ngati- waki are our relations, but then there was Kohu, we killed, and Patu, we stole his wife. There is no say- 12 OLD NEW ZEALAND. ing what these Ngatiwaki may do if they should get plenty of muskets; they are game enough for any- thing. It was wrong to give them those muskets; wrong, wrong, wrong!” After-experience enabled me to tell just what the chief’s soliloquy was, as above. But all this time the boat is darting to the shore, and as the distance is only a couple of hundred yards, I can hardly understand how it is that I have not yet landed. The crew are pulling like mad, being impatient to show the tribe the prize they have made, —a regular pakeha rangatira as well as a rangatira pakeha (two very different things), who has lots of tomahawks, and fish-hooks, and blankets, and a tupara, and is even suspected to be the owner of a great many “nots” of gunpowder! ‘He is going to stop with the tribe, he is going to trade, he is going to be a pakeha for us.” These last conclusions were, how- ever, jumped at, the “ pakeha” not having then any notions of trade or commerce, and being only inclined to look about and amuse himself. The boat nears the shore, and now arises from a hundred voices the call of welcome,— Haere mai! haere mai! hoe mai! hoe mai! haere mat, e-te-pa-ke-ha, haere mai! mats, hands, and certain ragged petticoats put into requisi- tion for that occasion, all at the same time waving in the air in sign of welcome. Thena pause. Then, as the boat came nearer, another burst of haere maz! But unaccustomed as I was then to the Maori salute, I disliked the sound. There was a wailing melancholy cadence that did not strike me as being the appropriate. OLD NEW ZEALAND. 13 tone of welcome; and, as I was quite ignorant up to this time of my own importance, wealth, and general value as a pakeha, I began, as the boat closed in with the shore, to ask myself whether possibly this same “haere mat” might not be the Maori for ‘“‘dilly, dilly, come and be killed.” There was, however, no help for itnow; we were close to the shore, and so, putting on the most unconcerned countenance possible, I prepared to make my entrée into Maori land in a proper and dignified manner. CuaptTer IJ, }- The market price of a Pakeha,__The _ value of a Pakeha “as such.”—Maori hospitality in the good ol¢ 1 times.—A respectable friend.— Maori mermaids.—My notions Voe the value of gold.— How I got on shore. Pr BORE RE I must remark g that in those days the value of a pal ixeha to a tribe was enormous. For w want of pakehas to trade with, and fro; isn whom to procure gunpowder and muskets, many 1 lbribes or sections of tribes were about this time exterminated or nearly so by their more fortunate nj mighbours who got pakehas before them, and who _ Jéonsequently became armed with muskets “first. A }se pakeha trader was therefore of a value say about -¢ twenty times his own weight in muskets. This, a according to my notes made at the time, I find to h: 1-ve represented a value in New Zealand something ,petbout what we mean in England when we talk of 4 t the sum total of the national debt. A book-keet e. per, or a second-rate pakeha, not a trader, mighaotis be valued at say his weight in tomahawks; an w“asenormous sum also. ‘The poorest labouring pakeha, aeré;hough he might have no property, would earn som:.ewething—his value to the OLD NEW ZHALAND. 15 chief and tribe with whom he lived might be esti- mated at say his weight in fish-hooks, or about a hundred thousand pounds or so; value estimated by eagerness to obtain the article. The value of a musket was not to be estimated to a native by just what he gave for it; he gave all he had, or could procure, and had he ten times as much to give he would have given it, if necessary, or if not, he would buy ten muskets instead of one. Muskets! muskets! muskets! nothing but muskets, was the first demand of the Maori; muskets and gunpowder at any cost. I do not, however, mean to affirm that pakehas were at this time valued “as such,”—like Mr. Pickwick’s silk stockings, which were very good and valuable stockings, “as stockings’’—not at all. A loose, straggling pakeha—a runaway from a ship for instance,—who had nothing, and was never likely to have anything, a vagrant straggler passing from place to place,—was not of much account even in those times. T'wo men of this description (run- away sailors) were hospitably entertained one night by a chief, a very particular friend of mine, who, to pay himself for his trouble and outlay, eat one of them next morning. Remember, my good reader, I don’t deal in fiction; my friend eat the pakeha sure enough, and killed him before he eat him, which was civil, for it was not always done. But then, certainly, the pakeha was a tutua, a nobody, a fellow not worth a spike nail; no one knew him; he had no relations, no goods, no expectations, no anything: 18 OLD NEW ZEALAND. beaver hat! Carry! He would lie down and make a bridge of his body, with pleasure, for him. Has he not half a shipful of taonga ? Well, having stepped in as dignified a manner as I knew how, from thwart to thwart, till I came to the bow of the boat, and having tightened on my hat and buttoned up my coat, I fairly mounted on the broad shoulders of my aboriginal friend. I felt at the time that the thing was a sort of failure—a come down; the position was not graceful, or in any way likely to suggest ideas of respect or awe, with my legs projecting a yard or so from under each arm of my bearer, holding on to his shoulders in the most painful, cramped, and awkward manner. To be sacked on shore thus, and delivered like a bag of goods thus, into the hands of the assembled multi- tude, did not strike me as a good first appearance on this stage. But little, indeed, can we tell in this world what one second may produce. Gentle reader, fair reader, patient reader! The fates have decreed it; the fiat has gone forth; on that man’s back I shall never land in New Zealand. Manifold are the doubts and fears which have yet to shake and agitate the hearts and minds of all my friends as to whether I shall ever land at all, or ever again feel terra jirma touch my longing foot. My bearer made one step; the rock is slippery; backwards he goes; back, back! The steep is near—is passed! down, down, we go! backwards and headlong to the depths below! The ebb tide is running like a sluice; in an instant we are forty yards off, and a fathom below the sur- OLD NEW ZHALAND. 19 face; ten more fathoms are beneath us. The heels of my boots, my polished boots, point to the upper air—ay, point; but when, oh, when again, shall I salute thee, gentle air; when again, unchoked by the saline flood, cry Vent aura? When, indeed! for now I am wrong end uppermost, drifting away with the tide, and ballasted with heavy pistols, boots, tight clothes, and all the straps and strings of civilization. Oh, heavens! and oh earth! and oh ye little thieves of fishes who manage to live in the waters under the earth (a miserable sort of life you must have of it!) oh Maori sea nymphs! who, with yellow hair— yellow? egad—that’s odd enough, to say the least of it; however the Maori should come to give their sea nymphs or spirits yellow hair is curious. The Maori know nothing about yellow hair; their hair is black. About one in a hundred of them have a sort of dirty-brown hair; but even if there should be now and then a native with yellow hair, how is it that they have come to give this colour to the sea-sprites in particular?—who also “dance on the sands, and yet no footstep seen.” Now I confess I am rather puzzled and struck by the coincidence. I don’t believe Shakespeare ever was in New Zealand; Jason might, being a seafaring-man, and if he should have called in for wood and water, and happened to have the golden fleece by any accident on board, and by any chance put it on for a wig, why the thing would be accounted for at once. The world is mad now-a- days about gold, so no one cares a fig about what is called “ golden hair;” nuggets and dust have the 18 OLD NEW ZEALAND. beaver hat! Carry! He would lie down and make a bridge of his body, with pleasure, for him. Has he not half a shipful of taonga ? Well, having stepped in as dignified a manner as I knew how, from thwart to thwart, till I came to the bow of the boat, and having tightened on my hat and buttoned up my coat, I fairly mounted on the broad shoulders of my aboriginal friend. I felt at the time that the thing was a sort of failure—a come down; the position was not graceful, or in any way likely to suggest ideas of respect or awe, with my legs projecting a yard or so from under each arm of my bearer, holding on to his shoulders in the most painful, cramped, and awkward manner. To be sacked on shore thus, and delivered like a bag of goods thus, into the hands of the assembled multi- tude, did not strike me as a good first appearance on this stage. But little, indeed, can we tell in this world what one second may produce. Gentle reader, fair reader, patient reader! The fates have decreed it; the fiat has gone forth; on that man’s back I shall never land in New Zealand. Manifold are the doubts and fears which have yet to shake and agitate the hearts and minds of all my friends as to whether I shall ever land at all, or ever again feel terra jirmd — touch my longing foot. My bearer made one step; the rock is slippery; backwards he goes; back, back! The steep is near—is passed! down, down, we go! backwards and headlong to the depths below! The ebb tide is running like a sluice; in an instant we are forty yards off, and a fathom below the sur- OLD NEW ZEALAND. 19 face; ten more fathoms are beneath us. The heels of my boots, my polished boots, point to the upper air—ay, point; but when, oh, when again, shall I salute thee, gentle air; when again, unchoked by the saline flood, cry Vent aura? When, indeed! for now I am wrong end uppermost, drifting away with the tide, and ballasted with heavy pistols, boots, tight clothes, and all the straps and strings of civilization. Oh, heavens! and oh earth! and oh ye little thieves of fishes who manage to live in the waters under the earth (a miserable sort of life you must have of it!) oh Maori sea nymphs! who, with yellow hair— yellow? egad—that’s odd enough, to say the least of it; however the Maori should come to give their sea nymphs or spirits yellow hair is curious. The Maori know nothing about yellow hair; their hair is black. About one in a hundred of them have a sort of dirty-brown hair; but even if there should be now and then a native with yellow hair, how is it that they have come to give this colour to the sea-sprites in particular?—who also ‘dance on the sands, and yet no footstep seen.” Now I confess I am rather puzzled and struck by the coincidence. I don’t believe Shakespeare ever was in New Zealand; Jason might, being a seafaring-man, and if he should have called in for wood and water, and happened to have the golden fleece by any accident on board, and by any chance put it on for a wig, why the thing would be accounted for at once. The world is mad now-a- days about gold, so no one cares a fig about what is called “ golden hair;” nuggets and dust have the 20 OLD NEW ZEALAND. preference; but this is a grand mistake. Gold is no use, or very little, except in so far as this—that through the foolishness of human beings, one can purchase the necessaries and conveniences of life with it. Now, this being the case, if I have a chest full of gold (which I have not), I am no richer for it in fact until I have given it away in exchange for necessaries, comforts, and luxuries, which are, pro- perly speaking, riches or wealth; but it follows from this, that he who has given me this same riches or wealth for my gold, has become poor, and his only chance to set himself up again is to get rid of the gold as fast as he can, in exchange for the same sort and quantity of things, if he can get them, which is always doubtful. But here lies the gist of the mat- ter—how did I, in the first instance, become pos- sessed of my gold? If I bought it, and gave real wealth for it, beef, mutton, silk, tea, sugar, tobacco, ostrich feathers, leather breeches, and crinoline,— why, then, all I have done in parting with my gold, is merely to get them back again, and I am, con- sequently, no richer by the transaction; but if I steal my gold, then I am a clear gainer of the whole lot of valuables above mentioned. So, uponthe whole, I don’t see much use in getting gold honestly, and one must not steal it: digging it certainly is almost as good as stealing, if it is not too deep, which fully accounts for so many employing themselves in this way; but then the same amount of labour would raise no end of wheat and potatoes, beef and mutton: and all farmers, mathematicians, and algebraists will agree OLD NEW ZEALAND. 21 with me in this—that after any country is fully cultivated, all the gold_in.the world won't force it to grow one extra, turnip, Aad whatsmore can any one desire? SaSiow WIBRARMIth, McCulloch, and all the rest af thempmaey go anmpbe hajiged. The whole upshot b ponbly and golden hair @xhi the Colonial Treasurer,)is*this:—I would not give one of your golden locks, my dear, for all the gold, silver, pearls, diamonds, mere ponamus—stop, let me think,—a good mere ponamu would be a temptation. I had once a mere, a present from a Maori friend, the most beautiful thing of the kind ever seen. It was nearly as transparent as glass; in it there were beau- tiful marks like fern leaves, trees, fishes, and—I would not give much for a person who could not see almost anything in it. Never shall I cease to regret having parted with it. The Emperor of Brazil, I think, has it now; but he does not know the proper use of it. It went to the Minister many years ago. I did not sell it. I would have scorned to do that; but I did expect to be made knight of the golden pig knife, or elephant and watch box, or something of that nature: but here I am still, a mere pakeha Maori, and, as I recollect, in desperate danger of being drowned. Up we came at last, blowing and puffing like grampuses. With a glance I “recognised the situ- ation :”—we had drifted a long way from the landing place. My hat was dashing away before the land breeze towards the sea and had already made a good 22 OLD NHW ZHALAND. “offing.” Three of the boat’s-crew had jumped over- board, had passed us a long distance, and were seemingly bound after the hat; the fourth man was pulling madly with one oar, and consequently making great progress in no very particular direc- tion. The whole tribe of natives had followed our drift along the shore, shouting and gesticulating, and some were launching a large canoe, evidently bent on saving the hat, on which all eyes were turned. As for the pakeha, it appears they must have thought it an insult to his understanding to suppose he could be drowned anywhere in sight of land. ‘‘ Did he not come from the sea?’ Was he not a fish? Was not the sea solid land to him? Did not his fire burn on the ocean? Had he not slept on the crests of the waves?” All this I heard afterwards; but at the time had I not been as much at home in the water as anything not amphibious could be, I should have been very little better than a gone pakeha. Here was a pretty wind up! I was going to “astonish the natives,” was 1?—with my black hat and my koti roa? But the villain is within a yard of me—the rascally cause of all my grief. The furies take possession of me! I dart upon him like a hungry shark! I have him! I have him under! Down, villain! down to the kraken and the whale, to the Taniwha cave!—down! down! down! As we sank I heard one grand roar of wild laughter from the shore—the word utw I heard roared by many voices, but did not then know its import. The pakeha was drowning the Maori for OLD NEW ZEALAND. 23 utu for himself, in case he should be drowned. No matter, if the Maori can’t hold his own, it’s fair play; and then, if the pakeha really does drown the Maori, has he not lots of taonga to be robbed of ?—no, not exactly to be robbed of, either; let us not use unne- cessarily bad language—we will say to be distrained upon. Crack! What do I hear? Down in the deep I felt a shock, and actually heard a sudden noise. Is it the “crack of doom?” No, it is my frock-coat gone at one split “from clue to earing ”— split down the back. Oh if my pistols would go off, a fiery and watery death shouldst thou die, Caliban. Egad! they have gone off—they are both gone to the bottom! My boots are getting heavy! Humane Society, ahoy! where is your boat-hook?—where is your bellows? Humane Society, ahoy! We are now drifting fast by a sandy point, after which there will be no chance of landing—the tide will take us right out to sea. My friend is very hard to drown—must finish him some other time. We both swim for the point, and land; and this is how I got ashore on Maori land. CHAPTER III. A wrestling match.—Beef against melons.—The victor gains a loss.—‘“ Our chief.” —His speech.—His status in the tribe.— Death of ‘‘ Melons.”—Rumours of peace and war.—Getting the Pa in fighting order.—My friend the “ relation eater.””—Expecta- tion and preparation.—Arrival of doubtful friends.—Sham fight. —The “taki.”—The war dance.—Another example of Maori hospitality.—Crocodile’s tears.—Loose notions about heads.— Tears of blood.—Brotherly love.—Capital felony.—Peace. SOMETHING between a cheer, a scream, and a roar, greet our arrival on the . sand. An English voice salutes me with ‘ Well, you served that fellow out.” One half of my coat hangs from my right elbow, the other from my left; a small shred of the collar is still around my neck. My hai, alas! my hat is gone. I am surrounded by a dense mob of natives, laughing, shouting, and gesticulating in the most grotesque manner. Three Englishmen are also in the crowd—they seem greatly amused at something, and offer repeated welcomes. At this moment up comes my salt-water acquaintance, elbow- ing his way through the crowd; there is a strange serio-comic expression of anger in his face; he stoops, makes horrid grimaces, quivering at the same time his OLD NEW ZEALAND. 25 left hand and arm about in a most extraordinary manner, and striking the thick part of his left arm with the palm of his right hand. ‘“ Hu!” says he, “hu! hu!” ‘What canhe mean?” saidI. “ He is challenging you to wrestle,” cried one of the English- men; “he wants wtu.” ‘What is utu?” said I. “Payment.” “I won't pay him.” ‘Oh, that’s not it, he wants to take it out of you wrestling.” ‘Oh, I see; here’s at him; pull off my coat and boots; I'll wrestle him; his foot is in his own country, and his name is—what?” “Sir, his name in English means ‘An eater of melons;’ he is a good wrestler ; you must mind.” ‘ Water-melons, I suppose; beef against melons for ever, hurrah! here’s at him.” Here the natives began to run between us to separate us, but seeing that I was in the humour to “ have it out,” and that neither self or friend were actually out of temper, and no doubt expecting to see the pakeha floored, they stood to one side and made aring. A wrestler soon recognises another, and my friend soon gave me some hints that showed me I had some work before me. I was a youngster in those days, all bone and sinew, full of animal spirits, and as tough as leather. A couple of desperate main strength efforts soon convinced us both that science or endurance must decide the contest. My antago- nist was a strapping fellow of about five-and-twenty, tremendously strong, and much heavier than me. I, however, in those days actually could not be fatigued; I did not know the sensation, and could run from morning till night. I therefore trusted to 26 OLD NEW ZHALAND. wearing him out, and avoiding his ta and wir. All this time the mob were shouting encouragement to one or other of us. Such a row never was seen. | soon perceived I had a “party.” ‘Well done, pakeha!” ‘Now for it, Melons!” “At him again!” ‘Take care, the pakeha is a tanwwha; the pakeha is a tino tangata!” ‘‘ Hooray!” (from the British element). ‘The Pakeha is down!” “No he isn’t!” (from English side). Here I saw my friend’s knees beginning to tremble. I made a great effort, administered my favourite remedy, and there lay the “‘ Eater of melons” prone upon the sand. | stood a victor; and like many other conquerors, a very great loser. There I stood, minus hat, coat, and pistols, wet and mauled, and transformed very considerably for the worse since I left the ship. When my antagonist fell, the natives gave a great shout of triumph, and congratulated me in their own way with the greatest goodwill. I could see I had got their good opinion, though I scarcely could understand how. After sitting on the sand some time my friend arose, and with a very graceful movement, and a smile of good nature on his dusky countenance, he held out his hand and said in English, ‘“‘ How do you do ?” I was much pleased at this; the natives had given me fair play, and my antagonist, though defeated both by sea and land, offered me his hand, and wel- comed me to the shore with his whole stock of English—“ How do you do?” But the row is not half over yet. Here comes the OLD NEW ZEALAND. 27 chief in the ship’s boat. The other is miles off with its one man crew still pulling no one knows, or at all cares, where. Some one has been off in a canoe and told the chief that ‘‘ Melons” and the ‘‘ New Pakeha”’ were fighting like mad on the beach. Here he comes, flourishing his mere ponamu. He is a tall, stout fel- low, in the prime of life, black with tattooing, and splendidly dressed, according to the splendour of those days. He has on avery good blue jacket, no shirt or waistcoat, a pair of duck trousers, and a red sash round his waist; no hat or shoes, these being as yet things beyond a chief’s ambition. The jacket was the only one in the tribe; and amongst the sur- rounding company I saw only one other pair of trousers, and it had a large hole at each knee, but this was not considered to detract at all from its value. The chief jumps ashore; he begins his ora- tion, or rather to “blow up” all and sundry the tribe in general, and poor ‘‘ Melons” in particular. He is really vexed, and wishes to appear to me more vexed than he really is. He runs, gesticulating and flourishing his mere, about ten steps in one direction, in the course of which ten steps he delivers a sen- tence; he then turns and runs back the same distance, giving vent to his wrath in another sentence, and so back and forward, forward and back, till he has ex- hausted the subject and tired his legs. The English- men were beside me and gave a running translation of what he said. ‘“ Pretty work this,’ he began, * good work; killing my pakeha; look at him! (Here a flourish in my direction with the mere.) I won’t 28 OLD NEW ZEALAND. stand this; not at all! not at all! not at all! (The last sentence took three jumps, a step, and a turn- round, to keep correct time.) Who killed the pakeha? It was Melons. You are a nice man, are you not? (This witha sneer.) Killing my pakeha! (In a voice like thunder, and rushing savagely, mere in hand, at poor Melons, but turning exactly at the end of the ten steps and coming back again.) It will be heard of all over the country; we shall be called the ‘ pakeha killers;’ I shall be sick with shame; the pakeha will run away, and take all his taonga along with him. What if you had killed him dead, or broken his bones? his relations would be coming across the sea for utw. (Great sensation, and I try to look as though I would say ‘ of course they would.’) What did I build this pa close to the sea for ?—was it not to trade with the pakehas?—and here you are killing the second that has come to stop with me. (Here poor Melons burst out crying like an infant.) Where is the hat?—-where the kot: roa 2?—where the shoes?—(Boots were shoes in those days.) The pakeha is robbed; he is murdered! (Here a howl from Melons, and I go over and sit down by him, clap him on the bare back, and shake his hand.) Look at that—the pakeha does not bear malice; I would kill you if he asked me; you are a bad people, killers of pakehas; be off with you, the whole of you, away!” This command was instantly obeyed by all the women, boys, and slaves. Melons also, being in disgrace, disappeared; but I observed that ‘‘ the whole of you” did not seem to be understood OLD NEW ZEALAND. ao as including the stout, able-bodied, tattooed part of the population, the strength of the tribe—the warriors, in fact, many of whom counted themselves to be very much about as good as the chief. They were his nearest relations, without whose support he could do nothing, and were entirely beyond his control. I found afterwards that it was only during actual war that this chief was perfectly absolute, which arose from the confidence the tribe had in him, both as a general and a fighting man, and the obvious necessity that in war implicit obedience be given to one head. I have, however, observed in other tribes, that in war they would elect a chief for the occasion, a war chief, and have been surprised to see the obedience they gave him, even when his conduct was very open to criticism. I say with surprise, for the natives are so self-possessed, opinionated, and repub- lican, that the chiefs have at ordinary times but little control over them, except in very rare cases, where the chief happens to possess a singular vigour of character, or some other unusual advantage, to enable him to keep them under. I will mention here that my first antagonist, ‘‘ The Eater of Melons,’ became a great friend of mine. He was my right-hand man and manager when I set up house on my own account, and did me many friendly services in the course of my acquaintance with him. He came to an unfortunate end some years later. The tribe were getting ready for a war expedition; poor Melons was filling cartridges from a fifty-pound barrel of gunpowder, pouring the gun- 30 OLD NHW ZEALAND. powder into the cartridges with his hand, and smok- ing his pipe at the time, as I have seen the natives doing fifty times since. A spark fell into the cask, and it is scarcely necessary to say that my poor friend was roasted alive in a second. I have known three other accidents of the same kind, from smoking whilst fillmg cartridges. In one of these accidents three lives were lost, and many injured; and I really do believe that the certainty of death will not prevent some of the natives from smoking for more than a given time. I have often seen infants refuse the mother’s breast, and cry for the pipe till it was given them; and dying natives often ask for a pipe, and die smoking. I can clearly perceive that the young men of the present day are neither so tall, or stout, or strong as men of the same age were when I first came to the country; and I believe that this smoking from their infancy is one of the chief causes of this decrease in strength and stature. I am landed at last, certainly; but I am tattered and wet, and in a most deplorable plight: so to make my story short, for I see, if | am too particular, I shall never come to the end of it, I returned to the ship, put myself to rights, and came on shore next day with all my taonga, to the great delight of the chief and tribe. My hospitable entertainer, Mr. ——, found room for my possessions in his store, and a room for myself in his house; and so now I am fairly housed we shall see what will come of it. I have now all New Zealand before me to caper about in; so I shall do as I like, and please myself. 7 y a a OLD NEW ZLALAND. 31 I shall keep to neither rule, rhyme, or reason, but just write what comes uppermost to my recollection of the good old days. Many matters which seemed odd enough to me at first, have long appeared such mere matters of course, that I am likely to pass them over without notice. I shall, however, give some of the more striking features of those delec- table days, now, alas! passed and gone. Some short time after this, news came that a grand war expedi- tion, which had been absent nearly two years at the South, had returned. This party were about a thousand strong, being composed of two parties of about five hundred men each, from two different tribes, who had joined their force for the purpose of the expedition. The tribe with which Mr. —— and myself were staying, had not sent any men on this war party; but, I suppose to keep their hands in, had attacked one of the two tribes who had, and who were, consequently, much weakened by the absence of so many of their best men. It, however, turned out that after a battle—the ferocity of which has seldom been equalled in any country but this—our friends were defeated with a dreadful loss, having inflicted almost as great on the enemy. Peace, how- ever, had afterwards been formally made; but, never- theless, the news of the return of this expedition was not heard without causing a sensation almost amount- ing to consternation. The war chief of the party who had been attacked by our friends during his absence, was now, with all his men, within an easy day’s march. His road lay right through our vil- 32 OLD NEW ZEALAND. lage, and it was much to be doubted that he would keep the peace, being one of the most noted war chiefs of New Zealand, and he and his men returning from a successful expedition. All now was uproar and confusion; messengers were running like mad, in all directions, to call in stragglers; the women were carrying fuel and provisions into the pa or for- tress of the tribe. This pa was a very well built and strong stockade, composed of three lines of strong fence and ditch, very ingeniously and artificially planned ; and, indeed, as good a defence as well could be imagined against an enemy armed only with musketry. All the men were now working like furies, putting this fort to rights, getting it into fighting order, mending the fences, clearing out the ditches, knock- ing down houses inside the place, clearing away brushwood and fern all around the outside within musket shot. J was in the thick of it, and worked all day lashing the fence; the fence being of course not nailed, but lashed with toro-toro, a kind of tough creeping plant, like a small rope, which was very strong and well adapted for the purpose. This lash- ing was about ten or twelve feet from the ground, and a stage had to be erected for the men to stand on. To accomplish this lashing or fastening of the fence well and with expedition required two men, one inside the fence and another outside; all the men therefore worked in pairs, passmg the end of the toro-toro from one to the other through the fence of large upright stakes and round a cross piece which OLD NEW ZHALAND. 53 went all along the fence, by which means the whole was connected into one strong wall. I worked away like fury, just as if I had been born and bred a member of the community; and moreover, not being in those days very particularly famous for what is called prudence, I intended also, circumstances per- mitting, to fight like fury too, just for the fun of the thing. About a hundred men were employed in this part of the work new lashing the pa. My vis-d-vis in the operation was a respectable old warrior of great experience and approved valour, whose name being turned into English meant “ The eater of his own relations.” (Be careful not to read rations.) This was quite a different sort of diet from “ melons,” and he did not bear his name for nothing, as I could tell you if I had time, but I am half mad with haste lashing the pa. I will only say that my comrade was a most bloodthirsty, ferocious, athletic savage, and his character was depicted in every line of his tattooed face. About twenty men had been sent out to watch the approach of the dreaded visitors. The repairing of the stockade went on all one day and all one night by torchlight and by the light of huge fires lit in the inside. No one thought of sleep. Dogs barking, men shouting, children crying, women screaming, pigs squealing, muskets firing (to see if they were fit for active service and would go off), and above all the doleful tetere sounding. This was ‘a huge wooden trumpet six feet long, which gave forth a groaning moaning sound, like the voice of a D 34: OLD NEW ZHALAND. dying wild bull. Babel, with a dash of Pandemo- nium, will give a faint idea of the uproar. All preparations having been at last made, and no further tidings of the enemy, as I may call them, I took a complete survey of the fort, my friend the ‘‘ Relation Eater” being my companion and explain- ing to me the design of the whole. I learned some- thing that day; and I, though pretty well “up” in the noble science of fortification, ancient and modern, was obliged to confess to myself that a savage who could neither read or write—who had never heard of Cohorn or Vauban—and who was moreover avowedly a gobbler up of his own relations, could teach me certain practical ‘‘ dodges” in the defensive art quite well worth knowing. A long shed of palm leaves had been also built at a safe and convenient distance from the fort. This was for the accommodation of the expected visitors, supposing they came in peaceful guise. A whole herd of pigs were also collected and tied to stakes driven into the ground in the rear of the fort. These were intended to feast the coming guests, according to their behaviour. Towards evening a messenger from a neighbouring friendly tribe arrived to say that next day, about noon, the strangers might be expected; and also that the peace which had been concluded with their tribe during their absence, had been ratified and accepted by them. This was satisfactory intelligence; but, nevertheless, no precaution must be neglected. To be thrown off guard would invite an attack, and OLD NEW ZEALAND. 30 ensure destruction; everything must be in order; gun cleaning, flint fixing, cartridge making, was going on in all directions; and the outpost at the edge of the forest was not called in. All was active prepara- tion. The path by which these doubtful friends were coming led through a dense forest and came out on the clear plain about half-a-mile from the pa, which plain continued and extended in every direction around the fortress to about the same distance, so that none could approach unperceived. The outpost of twenty men were stationed at about a couple of hundred yards from the point where the path emerged from the wood; and as the ground sloped consider- ably from the forest to the fort, the whole interven- ing space was clearly visible. Another night of alarm and sleepless expectation, the melancholy moan of the ¢etere still continuing to hint to any lurking enemy that we were all wide awake; or rather, I should say, to assure him most positively of it, for who could sleep with that diabo- lical din in his ears? Morning came and an early breakfast was cooked and devoured hurriedly. Then groups of the younger men might be seen here and there fully armed, and “getting up steam” by dancing the war dance, in anticipation of the grand dance of the whole warrior force of the tribe, which, as a matter of course, must be performed in honour of the visitors when they arrived. In honour, but quite as much in intimidation, or an endeavour at it, though no one said so. Noon arrived at last. 36 OLD NEW ZHALAND. Anxious glances are turning from all quarters to- wards the wood, from which a path is plainly seen winding down the sloping ground towards the pa. The outpost is on the alert. Straggling scouts are out in every direction. All is expectation. Now there is a movement at the outpost. They suddenly spread in an open line, ten yards between each man. One man comes at full speed running towards the pa, jumping and bounding over every impediment. Now something moves in the border of the forest,— it is a mass of black heads. Now the men are plainly visible. The whole tawa has emerged upon the plain. ‘‘ Here they come! here they come!” is heard in all directions. The men of the outpost cross the line of march in pretended resistance; they present their guns, make horrid grimaces, dance about like mad baboons, and then fall back with headlong speed to the next advantageous position for making a stand. The taua, however, comes on steadily; they are formed in a solid oblong mass. ‘The chief at the left of the column leads them on. The men are all equipped for immediate action, that is to say, quite naked except their arms and cartridge boxes, which are a warrior’s clothes. No one can possibly tell — what this peaceful meeting may end in, so all are ready for action at a second’s notice. The ¢aua still comes steadily on. AsI have said, the men are all stripped for action, but I also notice that the appear- ance of nakedness is completely taken away by the tattooing, the colour of the skin, and the arms and equipments. The men in fact look much better than , ) 4 OLD NEW ZEALAND. 37 when dressed in their Maori clothing. Every man, almost without exception, is covered with tattooing from the knees to the waist; the face is also covered with dark spiral lines. Each man has round his middle a belt, to which is fastened two cartridge boxes, one behind and one before; another belt goes over the right shoulder and under the left arm, and from it hangs, on the left side and rather behind, another cartridge box, and under the waist-belt is thrust, behind, at the small of the back, the short- handled tomahawk for close fight and to finish the wounded. Each cartridge box contains eighteen rounds, and every man has a musket. Altogether this tava is better and more uniformly armed and equipped than ordinary; but they have been amongst the first who got pakehas to trade with them, and are indeed in consequence the terror of New Zealand. On they come, a set of tall, athletic, heavyy-made men; they would, I am sure, in the aggregate weigh some tons heavier than the same number of men taken at random from the streets of one of our manufacturing towns. They are now half way across the plain; they keep their formation, a solid oblong, admirably as they advance, but they do not keep step; this causes a very singular appearance at a distance. In- stead of the regular marching step of civilized soldiers, which may be observed at any distance, this mass seems to progress towards you with the creeping motion of some great reptile at a distance, and when coming down a sloping ground this effect is quite remarkable. 38 OLD NEW ZHALAND. The mimic opposition is now discontinued; the outpost rushes in at full speed, the men firing their guns in the air as theyrun. Takini! takini! is the cry, and out spring three young men, the best run- ners of our tribe, to perform the ceremony of the taki. They hold in their hands some reeds to repre- sent darts or kokiri. At this moment a tremendous fire of ball cartridge opens from the fort; the balls whistle in every direction, over and around the advancing party, who steadily and gravely come on, not seeming to know that a gun has been fired, though they perfectly well understand that this salute is also a hint of full preparation for any unex- pected turn things may take. Now, from the whole female population arises the shrill “ haere mai! haere mai!’ Mats are waving, guns firing, dogs barking; the chief roaring to “ fall in,” and form for the war dance. He appears half mad with excitement, anxiety, and something very like apprehension of a sudden onslaught from his friends. In the midst of this horrible uproar off dart three runners. They are not unexpected. Three young men of the taua are seen to tighten their waist-belts, and hand their muskets to their comrades. On go the three young men from the fort. They approach the front of the — advancing column; they dance and caper about like mad monkeys, twisting their faces about in the most extraordinary manner, showing the whites of their eyes, and lolling out their tongues. At last, after several feints, they boldly advance within twenty yards of the supposed enemy, and send the reed OLD NEW ZEALAND. 39 darts flying full in their faces: then they turn and fly as if for life. Instantly, from the stranger ranks, three young men dart forth in eager pursuit; and behind them comes the solid column, rushing on at full speed. Run now, O “ Sounding Sea,” (Taz Haruru) for the ‘‘ Black Cloud,” (Kapua Mangw) the swiftest of the Rarawa, is at your back; run now, for the honour of your tribe and your own name, run! run! It was an exciting scene. The two famous runners came on at a tremendous pace, the dark mass of armed men following close behind at full speed, keeping their formation admirably, the ground shaking under them as they rushed on. On come the two runners (the others are left behind and disregarded). The pursuer gains upon his man; but they are fast nearing the goal, where, according to Maori custom, the chase must end. Run, “ Sound- ing Sea;” another effort! your tribe are near in full array, and armed for the war dance; their friendly ranks are your refuge; run! run! On came the headlong race. When within about thirty yards of the place where our tribe was now formed in a solid oblong, each man kneeling on one knee, with musket held in both hands, butt to ground, and somewhat sloped to the front, the pursuing native caught at the shoulder of our man, touched it, but could do no more. Here he must stop; to go farther would not be “correct.” He will, however, boast everywhere that he has touched the shoulder of the famous “‘ Sounding Sea.” Our man has not, however, been caught, which would have been a bad omen. At 40 OLD NEW ZEALAND. this moment the charging column comes thundering up to where their man is standing; instantly they all kneel upon one knee, holding their guns sloped be- fore their faces, in the manner already described. The élite of the two tribes are now opposite to each other, all armed, all kneeling, and formed in two solid oblong masses, the narrow end of the oblong to the front. Only thirty yards divide them; the front ranks do not gaze on each other; both parties turn their eyes towards the ground, and with heads bent downwards, and a little to one side, appear to listen. All is silence; you might have heard a pin drop. The uproar has turned to a calm; the men are kneeling statues; the chiefs have disappeared; they are in the centre of their tribes. The pakeha is be- ginning to wonder what will be the end of all this; and also to speculate on the eflicacy of the buck shot with which his gun is loaded, and wishes it was ball. Two minutes have elapsed in this solemn silence, the more remarkable as being the first quiet two minutes for the last two days and nights. Suddenly from the extreme rear of the strangers’ column is heard a scream—a horrid yell. A savage, of her- culean stature, comes, mere in hand, and rushing madly to the front. He seems hunted by all the furies. Bedlam never produced so horrid a visage. Thrice, as he advances, he gives that horrid cry; and thrice the armed tribe give answer with a long- drawn gasping sigh. He is at the front; he jumps into the air, shaking his stone weapon; the whites only of his eyes are visible, giving a most hideous OLD NEW ZEALAND. — A} appearance to his face; he shouts the first words of the war song, and instantly his tribe spring from the ground. It would be hard to describe the scene which followed. The roaring chorus of the war song; the horrid grimaces; the eyes all white; the tongues hanging out; the furious yet measured and uniform gesticulation, jumping, and stamping. I felt the ground plainly trembling. At last the war dance ended; and then my tribe, (I find I am already beginning to get Maorifed,) starting from the ground like a single man, endeavoured to outdo even their amiable friends’ exhibition. They end; then the new-eomers perform another demon dance; then my tribe give another. Silence again prevails, and all sit down. Immediately a man from the new arrivals comes to the front of his own party; he runs to and fro; he speaks for his tribe; these are his words :— ‘Peace is made! peace is made! peace is firm! peace is secure! peace! peace! peace!” This man is not a person of any particular consequence in his tribe, but his brother was killed by our people in the battle I have mentioned, and this gives him the right to be the first to proclaim peace. His speech is ended and he “‘ falls in.” Some three or four others ‘* follow on the same side.” ‘Their speeches are short also, and nearly verbatim what the first was. Then who of all the world starts forth from ‘ ours,” to speak on the side of “law and order,” but my diabolical old acquaintance the “ Relation Eater.” I had by this time picked up a little Maori, and could partly understand his speech. ‘‘ Welcome! welcome! 42 OLD NEW ZHALAND. welcome! peace is made! not till now has there been true peace! I have seen you, and peace is made!” Here he broke out into a song, the chorus of which was taken up by hundreds of voices, and when it ended he made a sudden and very expressive gesture of scattering something with his hands, which was a signal to all present that the ceremonial was at an end for the time. Our tribe at once disappeared into the pa, and at the same instant the strangers broke into a scattered mob, and made for the long shed which had been prepared for their reception, which was quite large enough, and the floor covered thickly with clean rushes to sleep on. About fifty or sixty then started for the border of the forest to bring their clothes and baggage, which had been left there as incumbrances to the movements of the performers in the ceremonials [ have described. Part, however, of the “ampedimenta” had already arrived on the backs of about thirty boys, women, and old slaves; and I noticed amongst other things some casks of cartridges, which were, as I thought, rather ostentatiously exposed to view. I soon found the reason my friend of saturnine propensities had closed proceedings so abruptly was, that the tribe had many pressing duties of hospitality | to fulfil, and that the heavy talking was to commence next day. I noticed also that to this time there had been no meeting of the chiefs, and, moreover, that the two parties had kept strictly separate—the near- est they had been to each other was thirty yards when the war dancing was going on, and they seemed OLD NEW ZHALAND. 43 quite glad, when the short speeches were over, to move off to a greater distance from each other. Soon after the dispersion of the two parties, a firing of muskets was heard in and at the rear of the fort, accompanied by the squeaking, squealing, and dying groans of a whole herd of pigs. Directly afterwards a mob of fellows were seen staggering under the weight of the dead pigs, and proceeding to the long shed already mentioned, in front of which they were flung down, sans-ceremonie, and without a word spoken. I counted sixty-nine large fat pigs flung in one heap, one on the top of the other, before that part of the shed where the principal chief was sitting; twelve were thrown before the interesting savage who had “started” the war dance; and several single porkers were thrown without any remark before certain others of the guests. The parties, however, to whom this compliment was paid sat quietly saying nothing, and hardly appearing to see what was done. Behind the pigs was placed, by the active exertion of two or three hundred people, a heap of potatoes and kumera, in quantity about ten tons, so there was no want of the raw material for a feast. The pigs and potatoes having been deposited, a train of women appeared—the whole, indeed, of the young and middle-aged women of the tribe. They advanced with a half-dancing half-hopping sort of step, to the time of a wild but not unmusical chant, each woman holding high in both hands a smoking dish of some kind or other of Maori delicacy, hot 4A ODD NEW ZHALAND. from the oven. The groundwork of this feast ap- peared to be sweet potatoes and taro, but on the top of each smoking mess was placed either dried shark, eels, mullet, or pork, all “ piping hot.” This treat was intended to stay our guests’ stomachs till they could find time to cook for themselves. The women having placed the dishes, or to speak more correctly, baskets, on the ground before the shed, disappeared ; and in a miraculously short time the feast disappeared also, as was proved by seeing the baskets flung in twos, threes, and tens, empty out of the shed. Next day, pretty early in the morning, I saw our chief (as I must call him for distinction) with a few of the principal men of the tribe, dressed in their best Maori costume, taking their way towards the shed of the visitors. When they got pretty near, a cry of haere mai! hailed them. They went on gravely, and observing where the principal chief was scated, our chief advanced towards him, fell upon his neck em- bracing him in the most affectionate manner, com- menced a tang?, or melancholy sort of ditty, which ‘lasted a full half hour, and during which, both parties, as in duty bound and in compliance with custom, shed floods of tears. How they managed to do it is more than I can tell to this day, except that I suppose you may train a man to do anything. Right well do I know that either party would have almost given his life for a chance to exterminate the other with all his tribe ; and twenty-seven years afterwards I saw the two tribes fighting in the very quarrel which was pretended to have been made up that day. Before *. OLD NEW ZHALAND. 45 this, however, both these chiefs were dead, and others reigned in their stead. While the tang? was going on between the two principals, the companions of our chief each selected one of the visitors, and rushing into his arms, went through a similar scene. Old ‘Relation Eater” singled out the horrific savage who had began the war dance, and these two tender- hearted individuals did, for a full half hour, seated on the ground, hanging on each other’s necks, give vent to such a chorus of skilfully modulated howling as would have given Momus the blue devils to listen to. After the tangz was ended, the two tribes seated themselves in a large irregular circle on the plain, and into this circle strode an orator, who, having said his say, was followed by another, and so the greater part of the day was consumed. No arms were to be seen in the hands of either party, except the green- stone mere of the principal chiefs; but I took notice that about thirty of our people never left the nearest gate of the pa, and that their loaded muskets, although out of sight, were close at hand, standing against the fence inside the gate, and I also perceived that under their cloaks or mats they wore their cartridge boxes and tomahawks. This caused me to observe the other party more closely. They also, I perceived, had some forty men sleeping in the shed; these fellows had not removed their cartridge boxes either, and all their companions’ arms were carefully ranged behind them in a row, six or seven deep, against the back wall of the shed. The speeches of the orators were not very interest- 4.6 OLD NEW ZEALAND. ing, so I took a stroll to a little rising ground at about a hundred yards distance, where a company of natives, better dressed than common, were seated. They had the best sort of ornamented cloaks, and had feathers in their heads, which I already knew “commoners” could not afford to wear, as they were only to be procured some hundreds of miles to the south. I therefore concluded these were magnates or ‘“‘personages”’ of some kind or other, and deter- mined to introduce myself. As I approached, one of these splendid individuals nodded to me in a very familiar sort of manner, and I, not to appear rude, returned the salute. I stepped into the circle formed by my new friends, and had just commenced a tena koutou, when a breeze of wind came sighing along the hill-top. My friend nodded again,—his cloak blew to one side. What do I see ?—or rather what doI not see? The head has no body under it! The heads had all been stuck on slender rods, a cross stick tied on to represent the shoulders, and the cloaks thrown over all in such a natural manner as to deceive anyone at a short distance, but a green pakeha, who was not expecting any such matter, toa certainty. I fell back a yard or two, so as to take a full view of this silent circle. I began to feel as if at last I had fallen into strange company. I began to look more closely at my companions, and to try to fancy what their characters in life had been. One had undoubtedly been a warrior; there was some- thing bold and defiant about the whole air of the head. Another was the head of a very old man, OLD NEW ZEALAND. 47 grey, shrivelled, and wrinkled. I was going on with my observations when I was saluted by a voice from behind with, “‘ Looking at the eds, sir?” It was one of the pakehas formerly mentioned. “ Yes,” said I, turning round just the least possible thing quicker thanordinary. ‘‘ Eds has been a getting scarce,” says he. “I should think so,” says I. ‘ We an’t ad a ed this long time,” says he. “The devil!” says I. ‘One o’ them eds has been hurt bad,” says he. “I should think all were, rather so,” says I. ‘Oh no, only one on ’em,” says he, “the skull is split, and it won't fetch nothin,” says he. ‘Oh, murder! I see, now,” says I. “Eds was werry scarce,” says he, shaking hisown “ed.” “Ah!” said I. ‘‘ They had to tattoo a slave a bit ago,” says he, ‘“ and the villain ran away, tattooin’ and all!” says he. ‘ What?” said I. ‘ Bolted afore he was fit to kill,” says he. ‘‘ Stole off with his own head?” saysI. “ That’s just it,” says he. “ Capital felony!” saysI. ‘“ You may say that, sir,’ says he. ‘Good morning,” said I. I walked away pretty smartly. ‘‘ Loose notions about heads in this country,” said I to myself; and involun- tarily putting up my hand to my own, I thought somehow the bump of combativeness felt smaller, or indeed had vanished altogether. ‘It’s all very funny,” said I. I walked down into the plain. I saw in one place a crowd of women, boys, and others. There was a great noise of lamentation going on. I went up to the crowd, and there beheld, lying on a clean mat, which was spread on the ground, another head. A 48 OLD NEW ZEALAND. number of women were standing in a row before it, screaming, wailing, and quivering their hands about ina most extraordinary manner, and cutting them- selves dreadfully with sharp flints and shells. One old woman, in the centre of the group, was one clot of blood from head to feet, and large clots of coagulated blood lay on the ground where she stood. The sight was absolutely horrible, I thought at the time. She was singing or howling a dirge-like wail. In her right hand she held a piece of tuhua, or volcanic glass, as sharp as a razor: this she placed deliberately to her left wrist, drawing it slowly up- wards to her left shoulder, the spouting blood follow- ing as it went; then from the left shoulder down- wards, across the breast to the short ribs on the right side; then the rude but keen knife was shifted from the right hand to the left, placed to the right wrist, drawn upwards to the right shoulder, and so down across the breast to the left side, thus making a bloody cross on the breast; and so the operation went on all the time I was there, the old creature all the time howling in time and measure, and keeping time also with the knife, which at every cut was shifted from one hand to the other, as I have described. She had scored her forehead and cheeks before I came; her face and body was a mere clot of blood, and a little stream was dropping from every finger—a more hideous object could scarcely be con- ceived. I took notice that the younger women, though they screamed as loud, did not cut near so deep as the old woman, especially about the face. | ) OLD NEW ZEALAND. 49 This custom has been falling gradually out of use; and when practised now, in these degenerate times, the cutting and maiming is mere form, mere scratch- ing to draw enough blood to swear by: but, in ‘‘ the good old times,” the thing used to be done properly. I often, of late years, have felt quite indignant to see some degenerate hussy making believe with a piece of flint in her hand, but who had no notion of cutting herself up properly as she ought to do. It shows a want of natural affection in the present generation, I think; they refuse to shed tears of blood for their friends as their mothers used to do. This head, I found on enquiry, was not the head of an enemy. A small party of our friends had been surprised; two brothers were flying for their lives down a hill-side; a shot broke the leg of one of them and he fell; the enemy were close at hand; already the exulting cry “na! na! mate rawa!” was. heard; the wounded man cried to the brother, ‘‘ Do not leave my head a plaything for the foe.” There was no time for deliberation. The brother did not deliberate; a few slashes with the tomahawk saved his brother’s head, and he escaped with it in his hand, dried it, and brought it home; and the old woman was the mother,—the young ones were cousins. There was no sister, as I heard, when I enquired. All the heads on the hill were heads of enemies, and several of them are now in museums in Europe. With reference to the knowing remarks of the pakeha who accosted me on the hill on the state of E 50 OLD NEW ZHALAND. the head market, I am bound to remark that my friend Mr. —— never speculated in this “ article;” but the skippers of many of the colonial trading schooners were always ready to deal with a man who had “ a real good head,” and used to commission such men as my companion of the morning to “ pick up heads” for them. It is a positive fact that some time after this the head of a live man was sold and paid for beforehand, and afterwards honestly delivered ‘as per agreement.” The scoundrel slave who had the conscience to run away with his own head after the trouble and expense had been gone to to tattoo it to make it more valuable, is no fiction either. Even in “the good old times” people would sometimes be found to behave in the most dishonest manner. But there are good and bad to be found in all times and places. Now if there is one thing I hate more than another it is the raw-head-and-bloody-bones style of writing, and in these random reminiscences I shall avoid all particular mention of battles, massacres, and onslaughts, except there be something particularly characteristic of my friend the Maori in them. As _ for mere hacking and hewing, there has been enough of that to be had in Europe, Asia, and America of late, and very well described too, by numerous “ our correspondents.” If I should have to fight a single combat or two, just to please the ladies, I shall do my best not to get killed, and hereby promise not to kill any one myself if I possibly can help it. I, how- ever, hope to be excused for the last two or three OLD NEW ZEALAND. 51 pages, as it was necessary to point out that in the good old times, if one’s own head was not sufficient, it was quite practicable to get another. I must, however, get rid of our visitors. Next day, at daylight, they disappeared: canoes from their own tribe had come to meet them (the old woman with the flint had arrived in these canoes), and they departed sans-ceremonie, taking with them all that was left of the pigs and potatoes which had been given them, and also the ‘fine lot of eds.” Their departure was felt as a great relief, and though it was satisfactory to know peace was made, it was even more so to be well rid of the peacemakers. Hail, lovely peace, daughter of heaven! meek-eyed inventor of Armstrong guns and Enfield rifles; you of the liquid fire-shell, hail! Shooter at ‘ bulls’- eyes,” trainer of battalions, killer of wooden French- men, hail! (A bit of fine writing does one good.) Nestling under thy wing, I will scrape sharp the point of my spear with a pzpz shell; I will carry fern-root into my pa; I will cure those heads which I have killed in war, or they will spoil and ‘‘ won’t fetch nothin:” for these are thy arts, O peace! CHAPTER LV. A little affair of “flotsam and jetsam.’’—Rebellion crushed in the bud.—A Pakeha’s house sacked.— Maori law.—A Maori lawsuit.— Affair thrown into Chancery. 's 2 NO) AKEHAS, though precious in the good old times, would sometimes get into awkward scrapes. Accidents, I have 245@3| observed, will happen at the best of times. Some time after the matters I have been recounting happened, two of the pakehas who were “knocking about” Mr. ——’s premises, went fishing. One of them was a very respectable old man-of-war’s man; the other was the connoisseur of heads, who, I may as well mention, was thought to be one of that class who never could remember to a nicety how they had come into the country, or where they came from. It so happened that on their return, the little boat, not being well fastened, went adrift in the night, and was cast on shore at about four miles distance, in the dominions of a petty chief who was a sort of vassal or retainer of ours. He did not belong to the tribe, and lived on the land by the OLD NEW ZHALAND. 53 permission of our chief as a sort of tenant at will. Of late an ill-feeling had grown up between him and the principal chief. The vassal had in fact begun to show some airs of independence, and had collected more men about him than our chief cared to see; but up to this time there had been no regular outbreak between them, possibly because the vassal had not yet sufficient force to declare independence formally. Our chief was however watching for an excuse to fall out with him before he should grow too strong. As soon as it was heard where the boat was, the two men went for it as a matter of course, little thinking that this encroaching vassal would have the insolence to claim the right of ‘‘ flotsam and jetsam,” which belonged to the principal chief, and which was always waived in favour of his pakehas. On arrival, however, at this rebellious chief’s dominions, they were informed that it was his intention to stick to the boat until he was paid a “stocking of gun- powder”—meaning a quantity as much as a stocking would hold, which was the regular standard measure in those days in that locality. A stocking of gun- powder! who ever heard of such an awful imposi- tion? The demand was enormous in value and rebellious in principle. The thing must be put an end to at once. The principal chief did not hesi- tate: rebellion must be crushed in the bud. He at once mustered his whole force (he did not approve of “little wars,”) and sent them off under the command of the Relation Eater, who served an ejectment in regular Maori form, by first plundering the village 54 OLD NEW ZHALAND. and then burning it to ashes; also destroying the cultivation and provisions, and forcing the vassal to decamp with all his people on pain of instant mas- sacre—a thing they did not lose a moment in doing, and I don’t think they either eat or slept till they had got fifty miles off, where a tribe related to them received them and gave them a welcome. Well, about three months after this, about day- light in the morning, I was aroused by a great uproar of men shouting, doors smashing, and women screaming. Up I jumped, and pulled on a few clothes in less time, I am sure, than ever I had done before in my life; out I ran, and at once perceived that Mr. ——’s premises were being sacked by the rebellious vassal, who had returned with about fifty men, and was taking this means of revenging himself for the rough handling he had received from our chief. Men were rushing in mad haste through the smashed windows and doors, loaded with anything and everything they could lay hands on. The chief was stamping against the door of a room in which he was aware the most valuable goods were kept, and shout- ing for help to break it open. A large canoe was floating close to the house, and was being rapidly filled with plunder. I saw a fat old Maori woman, who was washerwoman to the establishment, being dragged along the ground by a huge fellow, who was trying to tear from her grasp one of my shirts, to which she clung with perfect desperation. I per- ceived at a glance that the faithful old creature would probably save a sleeve. A long line of similar articles, OLD NEW ZEALAND. 55 my property, which had graced the tazepa fence the night before, had disappeared. The old man-of-war’s man had placed his back exactly opposite to that part of the said fence where hung a certain striped cotton shirt and well scrubbed canvas trowsers, which could belong to no one but himself. He was “hitting out” lustily right and left. Mr. had been absent some days on a journey, and the head merchant, as we found after all was over, was hiding under a bed. When the old sailor saw me, he “sang out,” in a voice clear as a bell, and calculated to be distinctly heard above the din :—‘ Hit out, sir, if you please; let’s make a fight of it the best we can; our mob will be here in five minutes; Tahuna has run to fetch them.” While he thus gave both advice and information, he also set a good example, having delivered just one thump per word or thereabouts. The odds were terrible, but the time was short that I was required to fight; so I at once floored a native who was rushing by me. He fell like a man shot, and I then perceived he was one of our own people who had been employed about the place ; so, to balance things, I knocked down another, and then felt myself seized round the waist from be- hind, by a fellow who seemed to be about as strong asa horse. At this moment I cast an anxious glance around the field of battle. The old Maori woman had, as I expected, saved a good half of my shirt; she had got on the top of an outhouse, and was waving it in a “Sister Anne” sort of manner, and calling to an imaginary friendly host, which she pretended to see advancing to the rescue. The old sailor had 56 OLD NHW ZHALAND. fallen under, but not surrendered to, superior force. Three natives had got him down; but it took all they could do to keep him down: he was evidently carry- ing out his original idea of making a fight of it, and gaining time ;—the striped shirt and canvas trowsers still hung proudly on the fence. None of his assail- ants could spare a second to pull them down. I was kicking and flinging in the endeavour to extricate myself ; or, at least to turn round, so as to carry out a ‘‘face to face” policy, which it would be a grand mistake to suppose was not understood long ago in the good old times. I had nearly succeeded, and was thinking what particular form of destruction I should shower on the foe, when a tremendous shout was heard. It was ‘‘our mob” coming to the rescue; and, like heroes of old, ‘‘ sending their voice before them.” In an instant both myself and the gallant old tar were released; the enemy dashed on board their canoe, and in another moment were off, darting away before a gale of wind and a fair tide at a rate that put half a mile at least between them and us before our protectors came up. ‘‘ Load the gun!” cried the sailor—(there was a nine-pound carronade on the cliff before the house, overlooking the river). A cartridge was soon found, and a shot, and the gun loaded. ‘“Slue her a little,” cried my now com- mander; “‘fetch a fire stick.” “Aye, aye, sir” (from self). “Wait a little; that will do—Fire!”—(in a voice as if ordering the discharge of the whole broad- side of a three-decker). Bang! The elevation was perfectly correct. The shot struck the water at OLD NEW ZHALAND. 57 exactly the right distance, and only a few feet to one side. A very few feet more to the right and the shot would have entered the stern of the canoe, and, as she was end on to us, would have killed half the people in her. A miss, however, is as good as a mile off. The canoe disappeared behind a point, and there we were with an army of armed friends around us, who, by making great expedition, had managed to come exactly in time to be too late. This was a tawa muru (a robbing expedition) in revenge for the leader having been cleaned out by our chief, which gave them the right to rob any one con- nected with, related to, or under the protection of, our chief aforesaid, provided always that they were able. We, on the other hand, had the clear right to kill any of the robbers, which would then have given them the right to kill us; but until we killed some of them, it would not have been “‘correct”’ for them to have taken life, so they managed the thing neatly, so that they should have no occasion to do so. The whole proceeding was unobjectionable in every respect, and tka (correct). Had we put in our nine- pound shot at the stern of their canoe, it would have been correct also, but as we were not able, we had no right whatever to complain. The above is good law, and here I may as well in- form the New Zealand public that I am going to write the whole law of this land in a book, which I shall call “ Ko nga ture;” and as I intend it for the good of both races, I shall mix the two languages up in such a way that neither can understand; but this 58 OLD NEW ZHALAND. does not matter, as I shall add a “ glossary,” in Cop- tic, to make things clear. Some time after this, a little incident happened at my friend Mr. ——’s place worth noting. Our chief had, for some time back, a sort of dispute with another magnate, who lived about ten miles off. I really cannot say who was in the right—the argu- ments on both sides were so nearly balanced, that I should not like to commit myself to a judgment in the case. The question was at last brought to a fair hearing at my friend’s house. The arguments on both sides were very forcible, so much so that in the course of the arbitration our chief and thirty of his principal witnesses were shot dead in a heap before my friend’s door, and sixty others badly wounded, and my friend’s house and store blown up and burnt to ashes. My friend was all but, or indeed, quite ruined, but it would not have been ‘‘correct” for him to complain—Ais loss in goods being far overbalanced by the loss of the tribe in men. He was, however, consoled by hundreds of friends who came in large parties to condole and tangi with him, and who, as was quite correct in such cases, shot and eat all his stock, sheep, pigs, goats, ducks, geese, fowls, &c., all in high compliment to himself, at which he felt proud, — as a well conducted and conditioned pakeha Maori (as he was) should do. He did not, however, survive these honours long, poor fellow. He died, and strange to say, no one knew exactly what was the matter with him—some said it was the climate, they thought. OLD NEW ZHALAND. 59 After this the land about which this little mis- understanding had arisen, was, so to speak, thrown into chancery, where it has now remained about forty years; but I hear that proceedings are to commence de novo (no allusion to the “new system’’) next summer, or at farthest the summer after; and as I witnessed the first proceedings, when the case comes on again ‘“‘ may I be there to see.” CHAPTER V. Every Englishman’s house is his castle.—My estate and castle.—How I purchased my estate.—Native titles to land, of what nature.—Value of land in New Zealand.—Land commis- sioners.—The triumphs of eloquence.—Magna Charta. VERY Englshman’s house is_ his castle,” “‘I scorn the foreign yoke,” ? and glory in the name of Briton, and all that. The natural end, however, of all castles is to be burnt or blown up. In England it is true you can call the constable, and should any foreign power attack you with grinding organ and white mice, you may hope for succours from without, from which cause “ castles” in England are more long lived. In New Zealand, however, it is different, as, to the present day, the old system prevails, and castles continue to be disposed of in the natural way, as has been seen lately at Taranaki. I now purchased a piece of land and built a “castle” for myself. I really can’t tell to the pre- sent day who I purchased the land from, for there were about fifty different claimants, every one of whom assured me that the other forty-nine were “‘humbugs,” and had no right whatever. The nature of the diffe- OLD NEW ZEALAND. 61 rent titles of the different claimants was various. One man said his ancestors had killed off the first owners; another declared his ancestors had driven off the second party; another man, who seemed to be listened to with more respect than ordinary, de- clared that his ancestor had been the first possessor of all, and had never been ousted, and that this ancestor was a huge lizard that lived in a cave on the land many ages ago, and sure enough there was the cave to prove it. Besides the principal claims, there were an immense number of secondary ones— a sort of latent equities—which had lain dormant until it was known the pakeha had his eye on the land. Some of them seemed to me at the time odd enough. One man required payment because his ancestors, as he affirmed, had exercised the right of catching rats on it, but which he (the claimant) had never done, for the best of reasons, z.e, there were no rats to catch, except indeed pakeha rats, which were plenty enough, but this variety of rodent was not counted as game. Another claimed because his erandfather had been murdered on the land, and—as I am a veracious pakeha—another claimed pay- ment because fis grandfather had committed the murder! Then half the country claimed payments of various value, from one fig of tobacco to a musket, on account of a certain wahi tapu, or ancient burying-ground, which was on the land, and in which every one almost had had relations or rather ancestors buried, as they could clearly make out, in old times, though no one had been deposited in it for 62 OLD NEW ZEALAND. about two hundred years, and the bones of the others had been (as they said) removed long ago to a torere in the mountains. It seemed an awkward circumstance that there was some difference of opinion as to where this same wahi tapu was situated, being, and lying, for in case of my buying the land it was stipulated that I should fence it round and make no use of it, although I had paid for it. (I, however, have put off fencing till the exact bounda- ries have been made out; and indeed I don’t think I shall ever be called on to do so, the fencing proviso having been made, as I now believe, to give a stronger look of reality to the existence of the sacred spot, it having been observed that I had some doubts on the subject. No mention was eyer made of it after the payments had been all made, and so I think I may venture to affirm that the existence of the said waht tapu is of very doubtful authenticity, though it certainly cost me a round “ lot of trade.”) There was one old man who obstinately persisted in declaring that he, and he alone, was the sole and rightful owner of the land; he seemed also to have a “fixed idea” about certain barrels of gunpowder; but as he did not prove his claim to my satisfaction, and as he had no one to back him, I of course gave him nothing; he nevertheless demanded the gun- powder about once a month for five-and-twenty years, till at last he died of old age, and I am now a landed proprietor, clear of all claims and demands, and have an undeniable right to hold my estate as long as ever I am able. i, OLD NEW ZULALAND. 63 It took about three months’ negotiation before the purchase of the land could be made; and, indeed, I at one time gave up the idea, as I found it quite im- possible to decide who to pay. If I paid one party, the others vowed I should never have possession, and to pay all seemed impossible; so at last I let all parties know that I had made up my mind not to have the land. This, however, turned out to be the first step I had made in the right direction; for, thereupon, all the different claimants agreed amongst themselves to demand a certain quantity of goods, and divide them amongst themselves afterwards. I was glad of this, for I wished to buy the land, as I thought, in case I should ever take a trip to the ‘“‘ colonies,” it would look well to be able to talk of “my estate in New Zealand.” The day being now come on which I was to make the payment, and all parties present, I then and there handed over to the assembled mob the price of the land, consisting of a great lot of blankets, muskets, tomahawks, tobacco, spades, axes, &c. &c.; and received in return a very dirty piece of paper with all their marks on it, I - having written the terms of transfer on it in English to my own perfect satisfaction. The cost per acre to me was, as near as can be, about five and a half times what the same quantity of land would have cost me at the same time in Tasmania; but this was not of much importance, as the value of land in New Zealand then, and indeed now, being chiefly imaginary, one could just as easily suppose it to be of a very great value as a very small one; I therefore did not complain of the cost. 64 OLD NEW ZEALAND. While I am on the subject of land and land titles, I may as well here mention that many years after the purchase of my land I received notice to appear before certain persons called “‘ Land Commissioners,’ who were part and parcel of the new inventions which had come up soon after the arrival of the first governor, and which are still a trouble to the land. I was in- formed that I must appear and prove my title to the land I have mentioned, on pain of forfeiture of the same. Now I could not see what right any one could have to plague me in this way, and if I had had no one but the commissioners and two or three hundred men of their tribe to deal with, I should have put my pa in fighting order, and told them to ‘come on;” for before this time I had had occasion to build a pa, (a little misunderstanding,) and being a regularly naturalized member of a strong tribe, could raise men to defend it at the shortest notice. But somehow these people had cunningly managed to mix up the name of Queen Victoria, God bless her! (no dis- paragement to King Potatau) in the matter; and I, though a pakeha Maori, am a loyal subject to her Majesty, and will stick up and fight for her as long as ever I can muster a good imitation of courage ora leg to stand upon. This being the case, I made a very unwilling appearance at the court, and explained and defended my title to the land in an oration of four hours and a half’s duration; and which, though I was much out of practice, I flatter myself was a good specimen of English rhetoric, and which, for its own merits as well as for another reason which I was not OLD NEW ZHALAND. 65 aware of at the time, was listened to by the court with the greatest patience. When I had concluded, and having been asked “‘if I had any more to say?” I saw the commissioner beginning to count my words, which had been all written, I suppose, in shorthand ; and having ascertained how many thousand I had spoken, he handed me a bill, in which I was charged by the word, for every word I had spoken, at the rate of one farthing and one twentieth per word. Oh, Cicero! Oh, Demosthenes! Oh, Pitt, Fox, Burke, Sheridan! Oh, Daniel O’Connell! what would have become of you, if such a stopper had been clapt on your jawing tackle? Fame would never have cracked her trumpet, and “ Dan” would never have raised the rint. For my part I have never recovered the shock. I have since that time become taciturn, and have adopted a Spartan brevity when forced to speak, and I fear I shall never again have the full swing of my mother tongue. JBesides this, I was charged ten shillings each for a little army of witnesses who I had brought by way of being on the sure side—five shil- lings a head for calling them into court, and five more for ‘examining ”’ them; said examination consisting of one question each, after which they were told to “be off.” I do believe had I brought up a whole tribe, as | had thoughts of doing, the commissioners ‘vould not have minded examining them all. They were, [ am bound to say, very civil and polite; one of them told me I was ‘a damned, infernal, clever fellow, and he should like to see a good many more like me.” I hope I am not getting tedious, but this F 66 OLD NEW ZEALAND, business made such an impression on me, that I can’t help being too prolix, perhaps, when describing it. I have, however, often since that time had my doubts whether the Queen (God bless her!) got the money or knew half as much of the affair as they wanted to make out. I don’t believe it. Our noble Queen would be clean above such a proceeding; and I mean to say it’s against Magna Charta, it is! ‘“ Justice shall not be sold,” saith Magna Charta; and if it’s not selling justice to make a loyal pakeha Maori pay for every word he speaks when defending his rights in a court of justice, I don’t know what is. Well, to make matters up, they after some time gave me a title for my land (as if I had not one before); but then, after some years, they made me give it back again, on purpose, as they said, that they might give me a better! But since that time several more years have passed, and I have not got it; so, as these things are now all the fashion, “I wish I may get 1.” CHapPTer VI. How I kept house.—Maori freebooters.— An ugly customer.— The “suaviter in modo.”—A single combat to amuse the ladies. —The true Maori gentleman.—Character of the Maori people. NEVER yet could get the proper knack of telling a story. Here I am now, a good forty years ahead of where I ought to be, talking of “title deeds” and ‘‘land commissioners,” things belonging to the new and deplorable state of affairs which began when this country became ‘“‘a British colony and possession,” and also “‘ one of the brightest jewels in the British crown.” I must go back. Having purchased my “estate,” I set up house- keeping. My house was a good commodious raupo building; and as I hada princely income of a few hundred a year “in trade,” I kept house in a very magnificent and hospitable style. I kept always eight stout paid Maori retainers, the pay being one fig of tobacco per week, and their potatoes, which was about asmuch more. Their duties were not heavy; being chiefly to amuse themselves fishing, wrestling, shoot- ing pigeons, or pig-hunting, with an occasional pull in the boat when I went on a water excursion. Besides 68 OLD NEW ZHALAND. these paid retainers, there was always about a dozen hangers-on, who considered themselves a part of the establishment, and who, no doubt, managed to live at my expense; but as that expense was merely a few hundredweight of potatoes a week, and an odd pig now and then, it was not perceptible in the good old times. Indeed these hangers-on, as I call them, were necessary; for now and then, in those brave old times, little experiments would be made by certain Maori gentlemen of freebooting propensities, and who were in great want of “ British manufactures,” to see what could be got by bullying ‘‘ the pakeha,” and to whom a good display of physical force was the only argument worth notice. These gentry generally came from a long distance, made a sudden appearance, and, thanks to my faithful retainers, who, as a matter of course, were all bound to fight for me, though I should have found it hard to get much work out of them, made as sudden a retreat, though on one or two occasions, when my standing army were accidentally absent, I had to do battle single-handed. I think I have promised somewhere that I would perform a single combat for the amusement of the ladies, and so I may as well do it now as at any other time. I shall, therefore, recount a little affair I had with one of these gentry, as it is indeed quite necessary I should, if I am to give any true idea of ‘“‘ the good old times.” I must, however, protest against the misdeeds of a few ruffians—human wolves—being charged against the whole of their countrymen. At the time I am speaking of, the only restraint on such people was the fear of me OLD NEW ZHALAND. 69 retaliation, and the consequence was, that often a dare-devil savage would run a long career of murder, robbery, and outrage before meeting with a check, simply from the terror he inspired, and the “luck” which often accompanies outrageous daring. Ata time, however, and in a country like New Zealand, where every man was a fighting man or nothing, these esperadoes, sooner or later, came to grief, being at last invariably shot, or run through the body, by some sturdy freeholder, whose rights they had in- vaded. I had two friends staying with me, young men who had come to see me from the neighbouring colonies, and to take a summer tour in New Zealand; and it so happened that no less than three times during my absence from home, and when I had taken almost all my people along with me, my castle had been invaded by one of the most notorious ruffians who had ever been an impersonation of, or lived by, the law of force. This interesting specimen of the genus homo had, on the last of these visits, demanded that my friends should hand over to him one pair of blankets; but as the prospectus he produced, with respect to payment, was not at all satisfactory, my friends declined to enter into the speculation, the more particularly as the blankets were mine. Our freebooting acquaintance then, to explain his views more clearly, knocked both my friends down; threat- ened to kill them both with his tomahawk; then rushed into the bed-room, dragged out all the bed- clothes, and burnt them on the kitchen fire. This last affair was rather displeasing to me. I 70 OLD NEW ZEALAND. held to the theory that every Englishman’s house was his castle, and was moreover rather savage at my guests having been so roughly handled. I in fact began to feel that though I had up to this time managed to hold my own pretty well, I was at last in danger of falling under the imposition of “ black mail,” and losing my status as an independent poten- tate—a rangatira of the first water. I then and there declared loudly that it was well for the offender that I had not been at home, and that if ever he tried his tricks with me he would find out his mistake. These declarations of war, I perceived, were heard by my men in a sort of incredulous silence, (silence in New Zealand gives dis-sent,) and though the fellows were stout chaps, who would not mind a row with any ordinary mortal, I verily believe they would have all ran at the first appearance of this redoubted ruffian. Indeed his antecedents had been such as might have almost been their excuse. He had killed several men in fair fight, and had also—as was well known—com- mitted two most diabolical murders, one of which was on his own wife, a fine young woman, whose brains he blew out at half a second’s notice for no further provocation than this :—He was sitting in the verandah of his house, and told her to bring him a light for his pipe. She, being occupied in domestic affairs, said, “ Can’t you fetch it yourself? I am going for water.” She had the calibash in her hand and their infant child on her back. He snatched up his gun and instantly shot her dead on the spot; and I had heard him afterwards describing quite coolly the comical OLD NEW ZHALAND. 71 way in which her brains had been knocked out by the shot with which the gun was loaded. He also had, for some trifling provocation, lopped off the arm of his own brother or cousin, I forget which, and was, altogether, from his tremendous bodily strength and utter insensibility to danger, about as “ugly a customer” as one would care to meet. I am now describing a regular Maori ruffian of the good old times, the natural growth of a state of society wherein might was to a very great extent right, and where bodily strength and courage were almost the sole qualities for which a man was respected or valued. He was a bullet-headed, scowling, bow- legged, broad-shouldered, herculean savage, and all these qualifications combined made him unquestion- ably “a great rangatira,” and, as he had never been defeated, his mana was in full force. A few weeks after the affair of the blankets, as I was sitting all alone reading a Sydney newspaper, which, being only a year old, was highly interesting, my iriends and all my natives having gone on an expedition to haul a large fishing net, who should I see enter the room and squat down on the floor, as if taking permanent possession, but the amiable and highly interesting individual I have taken so much trouble to describe. He said nothing, but his posture and countenance spoke whole volumes of defiance and murderous intent. He had heard of the threats I had made against him, and there he was, let me turn him outif I dare. That was his meaning—there was no mistaking it. 72 OLD NEW ZEALAND I have all my life been an admirer of the swaviter in modo, though it is quite out of place in New Zealand. If you tell a man—a Maori I mean—in a gentle tone of voice and with a quiet manner, that if he continues a given line of conduct you will begin to commence to knock him down, he simply disbelieves you, and thereby forces you to do that which, if you could have persuaded yourself to have spoken very uncivilly at first, there would have been no occasion for, I have seen many proofs of this, and though I have done my best for many years to improve the understanding of my Maori friends in this particular, I find still there are but very few who can understand at all how it is possible that the swaviter ir modo can be combined with the fortiter in re. They in fact can’t understand it for some reason perfectly inexplic- able to me. It was, however, quite a matter of in- difference, I could perceive, how I should open pro- ceedings with my friend, as he evidently meant mischief. ‘‘Habit is second nature,” so I instinctively took to the suaviter. “ Friend,” said I, in a very mild tone and with as amiable a smile as I could get up, in spite of a certain clenching of the teeth which somehow came on me at the moment, ‘‘ my advice to you is to be off.” Heseemed to nestle himself firmer in his seat, and- made no answer but a scowl of defiance. “I am thinking, friend, that this is my house,” said I, and springing upon him I placed my foot to his shoulder, and gave a shove which would have sent most people heels over head. Not so, how- ever, with my friend. It shook him, certainly, a a OLD NEW ZEALAND. 73 little; but in an instant, as quick as lightning, and as it appeared with a single motion, he bounded from the ground, flung his mat away over his head, and struck a furious blow at my head with his tomahawk. I escaped instant death by a quickness equal to or greater than his own. My eye was quick, and so was my arm; life was at stake. I caught the tomahawk in full descent; the edge grazed my hand; but my arm, stiffened like a bar of iron, arrested the blow. He made one furious, but ineffectual, effort to tear the tomahawk from my grasp; and then we seized one another round the middle, and struggled like maniacs in the endeavour to dash each other against the boarded floor, I holding on for dear life to the tomahawk, and making desperate efforts to get it from him, but with- out a chance of success, as it was fastened to his wrist by a strong thong of leather. He was, as I soon found, somewhat stronger than me, and heavier; but I was as active as a cat, and as long-winded as an emu, and very far from weak. At last he got a wiri round my leg ; and had it not been for the table on which we both fell, and which, in smashing to pieces, broke our fall, | might have been disabled, and in that case instantly tomahawked. We now rolled over and over on the floor like two mad bulldogs; he trying to bite, and I trying to stun him by dashing his bullet head against the floor. Up again!—still both holding on to the tomahawk. Another furious struggle, in the course of which both our heads, and half our bodies, were dashed through the two glass windows in the room, and every single article of fur- 74: OLD NEW ZEALAND. niture was reduced to atoms. Down again, rolling like mad, and dancing about amongst the rubbish— the wreck of the house. By this time we were both covered with blood from various wounds, received I don’t know how. I had been all this time fighting under a great disadvantage, for my friend was trying to kill me, and I was only trying to disarm and tie him up—a much harder thing than to kill My reason for going to this trouble was, that as there were no witnesses to the row, if I killed him, I might have had serious difficulties with his tribe. Up again; another terrific tussle for the tomahawk; down again with a crash; and so this life or death battle went on, down and up, up and down, for a full hour. At last I perceived that my friend was getting weaker, and felt that victory was only now a question of time. 1, so far from being fatigued, was even stronger. Another desperate wrestling match. I lifted my friend high in my arms, and dashed him, panting, furious, foaming at the mouth, but beaten, against the ground. There he lies; the worshipper of force. His god has deserted him. But no, not yet. He has one more chance, and a fatal one it nearly proved to me. I began to unfasten the tomahawk from his wrist. An odd expression came over his countenance. He spoke for the first time. “Enough, I am beaten; let me rise.” Now I had often witnessed the manly and becoming manner in which some Maoris can take defeat, when they have been defeated in what they consider fair play. I had also ceased to fear my friend, and so incautiously let go his left arm. Like OLD NEW ZHALAND. 75 lightning he snatched at a large carving fork which, unperceived by me, was lying on the floor amongst the smashed furniture and débris of my household effects ; his fingers touched the handle, and it rolled away out of his reach, and my life was saved. He then struck me with all his remaining force on the side of the head, causing the blood to flow out of my mouth. One more short struggle, and he was con- quered. But now I had at last got angry. The drunkenness, the exhilaration of fight, which comes on some constitutions, was fairly on me. I had also a consciousness that now I must kill my man, or, sooner or later, he would kill me. I thought of the place I would bury him ; how I would stun him first with the back of the tomahawk, to prevent too much blood being seen ; how I would then carry him off (I could carry two such men now, easy). I would murder him and cover him up. I unwound the tomahawk from his wrist: he was passive and help- less now. I wished he was stronger, and told him to get up and “die standing,” as his countrymen say. I clutched the tomahawk for the coup-de-grace, (I can’t help it, young ladies, the devil is in me,)—at this instant a thundering sound of feet is heard,— a whole tribe are coming! Now am I either lost or saved !—saved from doing that which I should after- wards repent, though constrained by necessity to do it. The rush of charging feet comes closer. In an instant comes dashing and smashing through doors and windows, in breathless haste and alarm, a whole tribe of friends. Small ceremony now with my an- 76 OLD NEW ZHALAND. tagonist. He was dragged by the heels, stamped on, kicked, and thrown half-dead, or nearly quite dead, into his canoe. All the time we had been fighting a little slave imp of a boy belonging to my antagonist had been loading the canoe with my goods and chat- tels, and had managed to make a very fair plunder of it. These were all now brought back by my friends, except one cloth jacket, which happened to be con- cealed under the wharikt, and which I only mention because I remember that the attempt to recover it some time afterwards cost one of my friends his life. The savage scoundrel who had so nearly done for me, broke two of his ribs, and so otherwise injured him that he never recovered, and died after lingering about a year. My friends were going on a journey, and had called to see me as they passed. They saw the slave boy employed as I have stated, and knowing to whom he belonged had rushed at once to the rescue, little expecting to find me alive. I may as well now dispose of this friend of mine by giving his after history. He for a long time after our fight went continually armed with a double gun, and said he would shoot me wherever he met me; he how- ever had had enough of attacking me in my “ castle,” and so did not call there any more. I also went continually armed, and took care also to have always some of my people at hand. After this, this fellow committed two more murders, and also killed in fair fight with his own hand the first man in a native battle, in which the numbers on each side were about three hundred, and which I witnessed. The man he OLD NEW ZEALAND. 77 killed was a remarkably fine young fellow, a great favourite of mine. At last, having attacked and attempted to murder another native, he was shot through the heart by the person he attempted to murder, and fell dead on the spot, and so there died ““a oreat rangatira.” His tribe quietly buried him and said no more about it, which showed their sense of right. Had he been killed in what they considered an unjust manner, they would have revenged his death at any cost; but I have no doubt they themselves were glad to get rid of him, for he was a terror to all about him. I have been in many a scrape both by sea and land, but I must confess that I never met a more able hand at an argument than this Maori rangatira. I have not mentioned my friend’s name with whom I had this discussion on the rights of Englishmen, because he has left a son, who is a great rangatira, and who might feel displeased if I was too particular, and I am not quite so able now to carry out a “‘ face- to-face”’ policy as I was a great many years ago; besides there is a sort of ‘honour amongst thieves” ‘ feeling between myself and my Maori friends on certain matters which we mutually understand are not for the ears of the “‘ new people.” Now, ladies, I call that a fairish good fight, con- sidering no one is killed on either side. I promise to be good in future and to keep the peace, if people will let me; and indeed, I may as well mention, that from that day to this I have never had occasion to explain again to a Maori how it is that “every Englishman’s house is his castle.” 78 OLD NEW ZEALAND. ‘Fair play is a jewel;” and I will here, as bound in honour to do, declare that I have met amongst the natives with men who would.be a credit to any nation; men on whom nature had plainly stamped the mark of “‘ Noble,” of the finest bodily form, quick and intelligent in mind, polite and brave, and capable of the most self-sacrificing acts for the good of others; patient, forbearing, and affectionate in their families; in a word, gentlemen. These men were the more remarkable, as they had grown up surrounded by a set of circumstances of the most unfavourable kind for the development of the qualities of which they were possessed; and I have often looked on with admiration, when I have seen them protesting against, and endeavouring to restrain some of, the dreadful barbarities of their countrymen. As for the Maori people in general, they are neither so good or so bad as their friends and enemies have painted them, and I suspect are pretty much like what almost any other people would have become, if subjected for ages to the same external circumstances. For ages they have struggled against necessity in all its shapes. This has given to them a remarkable greediness for gain in every visible and immediately tangible form. It has even left its mark on their language. Without the aid of iron the most trifling tool or utensil could only be purchased by an enor- mously disproportionate outlay of labour in its con- struction, and, in consequence, became precious to a degree scarcely conceivable by people of civilised and wealthy countries. This great value attached to OLD NEW ZEALAND. 79 personal property of all kinds, increased proportion- ately the temptation to plunder; and where no law existed, or could exist, of sufficient force to repress the inclination, every man, as a natural consequence, became a soldier, if it were only for the defence of his own property and that of those who were banded with him—his tribe, or family. From this state of things regular warfare arose, as a matter of course; the military art was studied as a science, and brought to great perfection as applied to the arms used; and a marked military character was given to the people. The necessity of labour, the necessity of warfare, and a temperate climate, gave them strength of body, accompanied by a perseverance and energy of mind perfectly astonishing. With rude and blunt stones they felled the giant kauri—toughest of pines; and from it, in process of time, at an expense of labour, perseverance, and ingenuity perfectly astounding to those who know what it really was—produced, carved, painted, and inlaid, a masterpiece of art, and an object of beauty—the war canoe, capable of carrying a hun- dred men on a distant expedition, through the boister- ous seas surrounding their island. As a consequence of their warlike habits and cha- racter, they are self-possessed and confident in them- selves and their own powers, and have much diplo- matic finesse and casuistry at command. Their intelligence causes them theoretically to acknowledge the benefits of law, which they see established amongst us, but their hatred of restraint causes them practically to abhor and resist its full enforcement 80 OLD NEW ZEALAND. amongst themselves. Doubting our professions of friendship, fearing our ultimate designs, led astray by false friends, possessed of that “little learning” which is, in their case, most emphatically ‘a dan- gerous thing,” divided amongst themselves,—such are the people with whom we are now in contact,— such the people to whom, for our own safety and their preservation, we must give new laws and insti- tutions, new habits of life, new ideas, sentiments, and informationn—whom we must either civilise or by our mere contact exterminate. How is this to be done? Let me see. I think I shall answer this question when I am prime minister. 1 PRINTER’S Duvin:—How is this to be done P—which ? what? —how ?—civilise or exterminate? PaxkEena Maort:—LHaha mau! CHAPTER VIL. Excitement caused by first contact with Huropeans.—The two great institutions of Maori land.—The Muru.—The Tapu.— Instances of legal robbery.—Descriptions and Examples of the Muru.—Profit and loss.—Explanation of some of the workings of the law of Muru. i. Laks ©) ifs EX hy HE natives have been for fifty years or é more in a continual state of excitement ni; hex on one subject or another, which has <3) hada markedly bad effect on their cha- racter and physical condition, as I shall by-and-by take occasion to point out. When the first strag- gling ships came here the smallest bit of iron was a prize so inestimable that I might be thought to exag- gerate were I to tell the bare truth on the subject. The excitement and speculation caused by a ship being seen off the coast was immense. Where would she anchor? What zron could be got from her? Would it be possible to seize her? The oracle was consulted, preparations were made to follow her along the coast, even through an enemy’s country, at all risks; and when she disappeared she was not for- gotten, and would continue long to be the subject of anxious expectation and speculation. G 82 OLD NEW ZEALAND. After this, regular trading began. The great mad- ness then was for muskets and gunpowder. A furious competition was kept up. Should any tribe fail to procure a stock of these articles as soon as its neigh- bours, extermination was its probable doom. We may then imagine the excitement, the over-labour, the hardship, the starvation (occasioned by crops neglected whilst labouring to produce flax or other commodity demanded in payment)—I say imagine, but I have seen at least part of it. After the demand for arms was supplied, came a perfect furore for iron tools, instruments of husbandry, clothing, and all kinds of pakeha manufactures. These things having been quite beyond their means while they were supplying themselves with arms, they were in the most extreme want of them, parti- cularly iron tools. A few years ago the madness ran upon horses and cattle; and now young New Zealand believes in nothing but money, and they are continually tormenting themselves with plans to acquire it in large sums at once, without the trouble of slow and saving industry, which, as applied to the accumulation of money, they neither approve of nor understand; nor will:they ever, as a people, take this mode till convinced that money, like everything else — of value, can only be procured as a rule by giving full value for it, either in labour or the produce of labour. - Here I am, I find, again before my story. Right. down to the present time talking of ‘young New Zealand,” and within a hair’s-breadth of settling OLD NEW ZEALAND. 85 “the Maori difficulty ” without having been paid for it, which would have been a great oversight, and con- trary to the customs of New Zealand. | must go back. There were in the old times two great institutions, which reigned with iron rod in Maori land—the Tapu and the Muru. Pakehas who knew no better, called the muru simply ‘‘ robbery,” because the word muru, in its common signification, means to plunder. But I speak of the regular legalized and established system of plundering as penalty for offences, which in a rough way resembled our law by which a man is obliged to pay “damages.” Great abuses had, how- ever, crept into this system—so great, indeed, as to render the retention of any sort of moveable pro- perty almost an impossibility, and to, in a great mea- sure, discourage the inclination to labour for its ac- quisition. These great inconveniences were, how- ever, met, or in some degree softened, by an expe- dient of a peculiarly Maori nature, which I shall by- and-by explain. The offences for which people were plundered were sometimes of a nature which, to a mere pakeha, would seem curious. A man’s child fell in the fire and was almost burnt to death. The father was immediately plundered to an extent that almost left him without the means of subsistence: fishing nets, canoes, pigs, provisions—all went. His canoe upset, and he and all his family narrowly escaped drowning—some were, perhaps, drowned. He was immediately robbed, and well pummelled with a club into the bargain, if he was not good at the science of self-defence—the club part of the 84. OLD NEW ZEALAND. eeremony being always fairly administered one against one, and after fair warning given to defend himself. He might be clearing some land for potatoes, burning off the fern, and the fire spreads farther than he in- tended, and gets into a wahi tapu or burial-ground. No matter whether any one has been buried in it or no for the last hundred years, he is tremendously robbed. In fact, for ten thousand different causes a man might be robbed; and I can really imagine a case in which a man for scratching his own head might be legally robbed. Now, as the enforcers of this law were also the parties who received the damages, as well as the judges of the amount, which in many cases (such as that of the burnt child) would be everything they could by any means lay hands on, it is easy to perceive that under such a system personal property was an evanescent sort of thing altogether. These executions or dis- traints were never resisted; indeed, in many cases, as I shall explain by-and-by, it would have been felt as a slight, and even an insult, not to be robbed; the sacking of a man’s establishment being often taken as a high compliment, especially if his head was broken into the bargain; and to resist the execution would not only have been looked upon as mean and dis- | graceful in the highest degree, but at would have de- barred the contemptible individual from the privilege of robbing his neighbours, which was the compensating expedient I have alluded to. All this may seem a waste of words to my pakeha Maori readers, to whom these things have become such matters of course as OLD NEW ZEALAND. 85 to be no longer remarkable; but I have remembered that there are so many new people in the country who don’t understand the beauty of being knocked down and robbed, that I shall say a few more words on the subject. The tract of country inhabited bya single tribe might be say from forty to a hundred miles square, and the different villages of the different sections of the tribe would be scattered over this area at different distances from each other. We will, by way of illus- trating the working of the muru system, take the case of the burnt child. Soon after the accident it would be heard of in the neighbouring villages; the family of the mother are probably the inhabitants of one of them; they have, according to the law of muru, the first and greatest right to clean out the afflicted father—a child being considered to belong to the family of the mother more than to that of the father —in fact it is their child, who the father has the rearing of. The child was moreover a promising lump of a boy, the makings of a future warrior, and consequently very valuable to the whole tribe in general, but to the mother’s family in particular. “ A pretty thing to let him get spoiled.” Then he is a boy of good family, a rangatira by birth, and it would never do to let the thing pass without making a noise about it. That would be an insult to the dignity of the families of both father and mother. Decidedly, besides being robbed, the father must be assaulted with the spear. True, he is a famous spearman, and for his own credit must “ hurt” some 86 OLD NEW ZHALAND. one or another if attacked. But this is of no conse- quence; a flesh wound more or less deep is to be counted on; and then think of the plunder! It is against the law of muru that any one should be killed, and first blood ends the duel. Then the natural affection of all the child’s relations is great. They are all ina great state of excitement, and trying to remember how many canoes, and pigs, and other valuable articles, the father has got: for this must be a clean sweep. } thought I, “if one half of the world | @)\ does not know how the other half live, neither do they know how they die.” Some days after this a deputation arrived to deliver up my old friend’s mere. It was a weapon of great mana, and was delivered with some little ceremony. I perceive now I have written this word mana several times, and think I may as well explain what it means. I think this the more necessary as the word has been bandied about a good deal of late years, and meanings often attached to it by Europeans which are incorrect, but which the natives sometimes accept because it suits their purpose. This same word mana has several different meanings, and the difference between these diverse meanings is sometimes very great, and sometimes only a mere shade of meaning, though one very necessary to observe; and it is, ile OLD NEW ZEALAND. 175 therefore, quite impossible to find any one single word in English, or in any other language that I have any acquaintance with, which will give the meaning of mana. And, moreover, though I myself do know all the meanings and different shades of meaning properly belonging to the word, I find a great diffi- culty in explaining them; but as I have begun, the thing must be done. It will also be a tough word disposed of to my hand, when I come to write my Maori dictionary, in a hundred volumes, which, if I begin soon, I hope to have finished before the Maori is a dead language. Now then for mana. Virtus, prestige, authority, good fortune, influence, sanctity, luck, are all words which, under certain conditions, give something near the meaning of mana, though not one of them give it exactly; but before I am done, the reader shall have a reasonable notion (for a pakeha) of what it is. Mana sometimes means a more than natural virtue or power attaching to some person or thing, dif- ferent from and independent of the ordinary na- tural conditions of either, and capable of either increase or diminution, both from known and un- known causes. The mana of a priest or tohunga is proved by the truth of his predictions, as well as the success of his incantations, which same incantations, performed by another person, of inferior mana, would have no effect. Consequently, this description of mana is a virtue, or more than natural or ordinary condition attaching to the priest himself, and which 176 OLD NEW ZEALAND. he may become possessed of and also lose without any volition of his own. When * Apollo from his shrine, No longer could divine, The hollow steep of Delphos sadly leaving,”— Then the oracle had lost its mana. Then there is the doctor’s mana. The Maori doctors in the old times did not deal much in “ sim- ples,” but they administered large doses of mana. Now when most of a doctor’s patients recovered, his mana was supposed to be in full feather; but if, as will happen sometimes to the best practitioners, a number of patients should slip through his fingers seriatim, then his mana was suspected to be getting weak, and he would not be liable to be ‘“ knocked up” as frequently as formerly. Mana in another sense is the accompaniment of power, but not the power itself; nor is it even in this sense exactly ‘‘ authority,” according to the strict meaning of that word, though it comes very near it. This is the chief’s mana. Let him lose the power, and the mana is gone; but mind you do not translate mana as power; that won’t do: they are two different things entirely. Of this nature also is the mana of a tribe; but this is not considered to be the super- deel kind of mana. Then comes the mana of a warrior. Uninterrupted success in war proves it. It has a slight touch of the supernatural, but not much. Good fortune comes near the meaning, but is just a little too weak. The OLD NEW ZEALAND. 177 warrior’s mana is just a little something more than bare good fortune; a severe defeat would shake it terribly; two or three in succession would show that it was gone: but before leaving him, some superna- turally ominous occurrence might be expected to take place, such as are said to have happened before the deaths of Julius Cesar, Marcus Antonius, or Brutus. Let not any one smile at my, even in the most distant way, comparing the old Maori warriors with these illustrious Romans, for if they do, I shall answer that some of the old Maori 7oa were thought as much of in thew world, as any Greek or Roman of old was in his; and, moreover, that it is my pri- vate opinion, that if the best of them could only have met my friend “ Lizard Skin,” in his best days, and would take off his armour and fight fair, that the aforesaid “ Lizard Skin” would have tickled him to his heart’s content with the point of his spear. A fortress often assailed but never taken has a mana, and one of a high description too. The name of the fortress becomes a pepeha, a war boast or motto, and a war cry of encouragement or defiance, like the slogan of the ancient Highlanders in Scotland. A spear, a club, or a mere, may have a mana, which in most cases means that it is a lucky weapon which good fortune attends, if the bearer minds what he is about; but some weapons of the old times had a stronger mana than this, like the mana of the en- chanted weapons we read of in old romances or fairy tales. Let any one who likes give an English word for this kind of mana. I have done with it. N 178 OLD NEW ZHALAND. I had once a tame pig, which, before heavy rain, would always cut extraordinary capers and squeak like mad. Every pakeha said he was “ weather- wise;” but all the Maori said it was a “ poaka what manda,” a pig possessed of mana; wz had more than natural powers and could foretell rain. If ever this talk about the good old times be printed and published, and every one buy it, and read it, and quote it, and believe every word in it, as they ought, seeing that every word is true, then it will be a puka puka what mana, a book of mana; and I shall have a high opinion of the good sense and good taste of the New Zealand public. When the law of England is the law of New Zea- land, and the Queen’s writ will run, then both the Queen and the law will have great mana; but I don’t think either will ever happen, and so neither will have any mana of consequence. If the reader has not some faint notion of mana by this time, I can’t help it; I can’t do any better for him. I must confess I have not pleased myself. Any European language can be translated easily enough into any other; but to translate Maori into English is much harder to do than is supposed by those who do it every day with ease, but who do not _ know their own language or any other but Maori perfectly. | I am always blowing up “ Young New Zealand,” and calling them “reading, riting, rethmatiking” vagabonds, who will never equal their fathers; but I mean it all for their own good—(poor things !)—like a father scolding his children. But one does get i OLD NHW ZHALAND. 179 vexed sometimes. Their grandfathers, if they had no backs, had at least good legs, but the grandsons can’t walk a day’s journey to save their lives; they must ride. The other day I saw a young chap ona good horse; he had a black hat and polished Wel- lingtons; his hat was cocked knowingly to one side; he was jogging along, with one hand jingling the money in his pocket; and may I never see another war dance, if the hardened villain was not whistling ‘“‘Pop goes the weasel!” What will all this end in? My only hope is in a handy way (to give them their due) which they have with a tupara; and this is why I don’t think the law will have much mana here in my time,—I mean the pakeha law; for to say the worst of them, they are not yet so far demoralized as to stand any nonsense of that kind, which is a com- fort to think of. I am a loyal subject to Queen Victoria, but I am also a member of a Maori tribe; and I hope I may never see this country so enslaved and tamed that a single rascally policeman, with nothing but a bit of paper in his hand, can come and take a rangatira away from the middle of his hapu, and have him hanged for something of no con- sequence at all, except that it is against the law. What would old “Lizard Skin” say to it? His grandson certainly is now a magistrate, and if any- thing is stolen from a:‘pakeha, he will get it back, #7 he can, and won’t stick to it, because he gets a salary in lieu thereof; but he has told me certain matters in confidence, and which I therefore cannot disclose. I can only hint there was something said about the law, and driving the pakeha into the sea. 180 OLD NEW ZHALAND. I must not trust myself to write on these matters. I get so confused, I feel just as if I was two different persons at the same time. Sometimes I find myself thinking on the Maori side, and then just afterwards wondering if ‘* we” can lick the Maori, and set the law upon its legs, which is the only way to do it. I therefore hope the reader will make allowance for any little apparent inconsistency in my ideas, as I really cannot help it. I belong to both parties, and I don’t care a straw which wins; but I am sure we shall have fighting. Men must fight; or else what are they made for? Twenty years ago, when I heard military men talking of ‘‘marching through New Zealand with fifty men,” I was called a fool because I said they could not do it with five hundred. NowTI am also thought foolish by civilians, because I say we can conquer New Zealand with our present available means, if we set the right way about it (which we won’t). So hurrah again for the Maori! We shall drive the pakeha into the sea, and send the law after them! If we can do it, we are right; and if the pakeha beat us, they will be right too. God save the Queen! So now, my Maori tribe, and also my pakeha coun- ‘trymen, I shall conclude this book with good advice ; and be sure you take notice; it is given to both par- ties. It is a sentence from the last speech of old “ Lizard Skin.” It is to you both. ‘Be brave, that you may live.” VERBUM SAPIENTI. HISTORY OF THE WAR IN THE NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND AGAINST THE CHIEF HEKE, IN THE YEAR 1845; TOLD BY AN OLD CHIEF OF THE NGAPUHI TRIBE. ca g PREFACE. oo. little tale is an endeavour to call back some shadows from the past: a picture of things which have left no record but this imperfect sketch. The old settlers of New Zealand—my fellow pioneers—will, I hope, recognize the like- ness. To those who have more recently sought these shores, I hope it may be interesting. To all it is respectfully presented. HISTORY OF THE WAR IN THE NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND AGAINST THE CHIEF HEKE. (ANY years ago, Hongi Ika, the great &) warrior chief of New Zealand, was 4(@ dying. His relations, friends, and Se tribe were collected around him, and he then spoke to them in these words: “ Children and friends, pay attention to my last words. After I am gone, be kind to the missionaries, be kind also to the other Europeans; welcome them to the shore, trade with them, protect them, and live with them as one people; but if ever there should land on this shore a people who wear red garments, who do no work, who neither buy nor sell, and who always have arms in their hands, then be aware that these are a people called soldiers, a dangerous people, whose only occupation is war. When you see them, make war 1 Hongi was shot through the body at Mangamuka, in Ho- kianga, of which wound he died, after lingering some years, The speech here given was not spoken on the day of his death, but some time before, when he saw he could not recover. 184 HEEIS WAR IN - THE against them. Then, O my children, be brave! then, O friends, be strong! Be brave that you may not be enslaved, and that your country may not become the possession of strangers.” And having said these words, he died. After this, years passed away, and the pakeha increased in numbers, and were spread over the whole country, and traded with the Maori, and lived with them, and the Maori were pleased with them, for they got from them plenty of gunpowder, and tomahawks, and blankets, and all the wealth of the pakeha became theirs, and there was no fighting between them, but all lived together as friends. More years passed away, and then came a chief of the pakeha who we heard was called a Governor. We were very glad of his arrival, because we heard he was a great chief, and we thought, he being a great chief, would have more blankets and tobacco and muskets than any of the other pakeha people, and that he would often give us plenty of these things for nothing. The reason we thought so was because all the other pakeha often made us presents of things of great value, besides what we got from them by trading. Who would not have thought as we did? The next thing we heard was, that the Governor was travelling all over the country with a large piece of paper, asking all the chiefs to write their names or make marks on it. We heard, also, that the Nga- puhi chiefs, who had made marks or written on that paper, had been given tobacco, and flour, and sugar, and many other things, for having done so. NORTH OF NEW ZHALAND. 185 We all tried to find out the reason why the Governor was so anxious to get us to make these marks. Some of us thought the Governor wanted to bewitch all the chiefs,’ but our pakeha friends laughed at this, and told us that the people of Europe did not know how to bewitch people. Some told us one thing, some another. Some said the Governor only wanted our consent to remain, to be a chief over the pakeha people; others said he wanted to be chief over both pakeha and Maori. We did not know what to think, but were all anxious he might come to us soon; for we were afraid that all his blankets, and tobacco, and other things would be gone before he came to our part of the country, and that he would have nothing left to pay us for making our marks on his paper. Well, it was not long before the Governor came, and with him came other pakeha chiefs, and also people who could speak Maori; so we all gathered together, chiefs and slaves, women and children, and went to meet him; and when we met the Governor, the speaker of Maori told us that if we put our names, The Governor made some presents of no great value to some of the natives who signed the Treaty of Waitangi, and a report in consequence got about, as is related here, that he was paying a high price for signatures. Many suppositions and guesses were made by the ignorant natives of the part of the country alluded to in the story, as to what could be the reason he was so desirous to get these names written on his paper, and many sugcested that he had some sinister design, probably that of bewitching them. 186 HHEWVS WAH IN THH or even made any sort of a mark, on that paper, the Governor would then protect us, and prevent us from being robbed of our cultivated land, and our timber land, and everything else which belonged to us. Some of the people were very much alarmed when they heard this, for they thought that perhaps a great war expedition was coming against us from some distant country, to destroy us all; others said he was only trying to frighten us. The speaker of Maori then went on to tell us certain things, but the mean- ing of what he said was so closely concealed we never have found it out.t| One thing we understood well, however; for he told us plainly that if we wrote on the Governor’s paper, one of the consequences would be that great numbers of pakeha would come to this country to trade with us, that we should have abun- dance of valuable goods, and that before long there would be great towns, as large as Kororareka, in every harbour in the whole island. We were very glad to hear this; for we never could up to this time get half muskets or gunpowder enough, or blankets, 1 When a native says anything for which he thinks he may at some future time be called to account, he so wraps his ideas up in figurative and ambiguous terms as to leave him perfectly free, should he think fit, to give a directly contrary meaning to ~ that which is most obvious at the time he speaks. Some natives are very clever at this, but it often happens that a fellow makes such a bungle of the business as to leave no meaning at all of any sort. This is what the narrator of the story means when he says, “the meaning of what the speaker of Maori said was closely concealed,” which is a polite Maori way of saying that he was talking nonsense. NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 187 or tobacco, or axes, or anything. We also believed what the speaker of Maori told us, because we saw that our old pakeha friends who came with us to see the Governor believed it. After the speaker of Maori had ceased, then Te Tao Nui and some other chiefs came forward and wrote on the Governor’s paper; and Te Tao Nui went up to the Governor, and took the Governor’s hand in his and licked it! We did not much lke this; we all thought it so undignified. We were very much surprised that a chief such as Te Tao Nui should do so; but Te Tao Nui is a man who knows a great deal about the customs of the pakeha; he has been to Port Jackson in a ship, and he, seeing our surprise, told us that when the great pakeha chiefs go to see the King or Queen of England they do the same, so we saw then that it was a straight proceed- ing. But after Te Tao Nui and other chiefs had made marks and written on the Governor’s paper, the Governor did not give them anything. We did not like this, so some other chiefs went forward, and said to the Governor, “Pay us first, and we will write afterwards.” A chief from Omanaia said, ‘“ Put money in my left hand, and I will write my name with my right,’ and so he held out his hand to the Governor for the money; but the Governor shook his head and seemed displeased, and said he would not pay them for writing on the paper. Now, when all the people saw this they were very much vexed, and began to say one to another, “It is wasting our labour coming here to see this Governor,” 188 HEKE’S WAR IN THE and the chiefs began to get up and make speeches. One said, “ Come here, Governor; go back to Eng- Jand ;” and another said, ‘ I am Governor in my own country, there shall be no other ;” and Paapahia said, ‘“ Remain here and be Governor of this island, and I will go to England and be King of England, and if the people of England accept me for their King it will be quite just; otherwise you do not remain here.” Then many other chiefs began to speak, and there was a great noise and confusion, and the people began to go away, and the paper was lying there, but there was no one to write on it. The Governor looked vexed, and his face was very red. At this time some pakehas went amongst the crowd, and said to them, ‘‘ You are foolish; the Governor intends to pay you when all the writing is done, but it is not proper that he should promise to do so; it would be said you only wrote your names for pay; this, according to our ideas, would be a very wrong thing.” When we heard this we all began to write as fast as we could, for we were all very hungry with listening and talking so long, and we wanted to go to get something to eat, and we were also in a hurry to see what the Governor was going to give us; and all the slaves wanted to write their names, so that the Governor might think they ~ were chiefs, and pay them; but the chiefs would not let them, for they wanted all the payment for them- selves. I and all my family made our marks, and we then went to get something to eat; but we found our food not half done, for the women and slaves who should have looked after the cooking were all mad NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 189 about the Governor, so when I saw that the food was not sufficiently done, I was aware that something bad would come of this business.’ Next morning the things came with which the Governor intended to pay us for writing our names, but there was not much tobacco, and only few blan- kets ;? and when they were divided some of the chiefs had nothing, others got only a few figs of tobacco, some one blanket, others two. I got for myself and all my sons, and my two brothers, and my three wives, only two blankets. I thought it was too little, and was going to return them, but my brother per- suaded me to keep them; so we got into our canoe to go home, and on the way home we began to say, ‘Who shall have the blankets?” And so we began to quarrel about them. One of my brothers then said, ‘“‘ Let us cut them in pieces, and give every one a piece.” I saw there was going to be a dispute about them, and said, “‘ Let us send them back.” So we went ashore at the house of a pakeha, and got a pen and some paper, and my son, who could write, wrote a letter for us all to the Governor, telling him to take back the blankets, and to cut our names out 1 This is a common native superstition. The natives believe in omens of a thousand different kinds, and amongst others think it a very bad omen if, on an occasion when any business of importance is on hand, the food happens to be served under- done ; or before a battle it is a particularly bad omen. 2 These presents were given to the natives, and, in their matter-of-fact manner, understood to be payment for signing the treaty. 190 HEKH’S WAR IN THE of the paper, and then my two brothers and my sons went back and found the Governor in a boat about to go away. He would not take back the blankets, but he took the letter. I do not know to this day whether he took our names out of the paper. It is, however, no matter; what is there in a few black marks? Who cares anything about them? Well, after this, the Governor died; he was be- witched, as I have heard, by a tohunga at the South, where he had gone to get names to his paper; for this was his chief delight, to get plenty of names and marks on his paper. He may not have been be- witched, as I have heard, but he certainly died, and the paper with all the names was either buried with him, or else his relations may have kept it to lament over, and as a remembrance of him. I don’t know. You, who are a pakeha, know best what became of it; but if it is gone to England, it will not be right to let it be kept in any place where food is cooked, or where there are pots or kettles, because there are so many chiefs’ names in it; it is a very sacred piece of paper ; it is very good if it has been buried with the Governor.* After the first Governor came the second Governor, but the towns and numerous pakeha traders we ex- pected did not come. We heard of a town at Waita- mata having been built,? and others farther South; but in our part of the country there was no new —— oe 1 The Treaty of Waitangi. ® Auckland, the capital of New Zealand. NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 191 towns, and the pakeha did not increase in numbers, but, on the contrary, began to go away to the town at Waitamata, to be near their chief the Governor, who lived there, and many of us had no one left to sell anything to as formerly. Tobacco began to be scarce and dear; the ships began to leave off coming to Tokerau, Hokianga, and Mangonui. We inquired the reason of this, but the few pakeha traders left amongst us told us different stories. Some said that the reason tobacco was scarce and dear was, because the Governor would not let it be brought on shore until he was paid a large price for it, besides what was paid to the people of the ship, who were the right owners of it. This we at first did not believe, because you all said you were not slaves, not one of you, but all free men. Others said that the reason ships did not come as frequently as formerly, was because the Governor made them pay for coming to anchor in the ports. Some said all the evil was by reason of the flagstaff which the Governor had caused to be erected at Maiki, above Kororareka, as a rahui, and that as long as it remained there things would be no better; others again told us the flagstaff was put there to show the ships the way into the harbour; others, that it was intended to keep them out; and others said that it was put up as a sign that this island had been taken by the Queen of England, and that the nobility and independence of the Maori was no more. But this one thing at least was true, we had less tobacco and fewer blankets and other European goods than formerly, and we saw that the first Governor had not Bi 192 HEKE’S WAR IN THE spoken the truth, for he told us we should have a great deal more. The hearts of the Maori were sad, and our old pakeha friends looked melancholy, because so few ships came to bring them goods to trade with. At last we began to think the flagstaff must have something to do with it, and so Heke went and cut it down. When the flagstaff was cut down, there was a great deal of talk about it, and we expected there would be fighting; but it all ended quietly. The Governor, however, left off taking money from the people,’ and tobacco became cheap, and ships began to come as before, and all our old pakeha friends were glad, be- cause they had ‘plenty of goods to sell us, and so we all thought Heke was a man of great understanding. But the Governor put up the flagstaff again, and when Heke heard this he came and cut it down again; so this was twice that he cut it down. Now, when the Governor heard that Heke had cut down the flagstaff a second time, he became very angry, because he thought he could never get any more money from the people, or the ships,* so he sent 1 After the flagstaff had been cut down, the customs-duties were repealed, and, in consequence, tobacco and other articles on which duties had been levied became cheaper. This fully con- vinced the natives that there was some mysterious connection between the dearness of different goods and the existence of the flagstaff, which they now thought was the source of all evils, and which will account for their determined persistence in cutting it down so often, at all risks. 2 This was really the belief of the natives at the time; I have heard it said not once but fifty times. To tell the contrary was NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 193 to England, and to Port Jackson, and everywhere, for soldiers to come to guard the flagstaff, and to fight with Heke. It was not long before the soldiers came, and the flagstaff was put up again; it was made larger and stronger than before, and pieces of iron were fastened to it, to prevent its being cut down easily, and a house was built under it for the soldiers, and the Governor told those soldiers to remain there always to guard that flagstaff. There were other soldiers at Kororareka and other places. I don’t know how many, but a great many. This was the first time that Heke began to think of the last words of Hongi Ika, his relative, when he died at Mawhe. Heke began to think much on these words, for Heke was now a chief amongst the Ngapuhi, and he thought to stand in the place of Hongi, as, indeed, he had a right to do. Now, these soldiers had red garments; they did not work, or buy and sell, like the other pakeha people; they practised every day with their weapons, and some of them were constantly watching as if they ex- pected to be attacked every moment. They were a very suspicious people, and they had stiff, hard things round their necks to keep their heads up, lest they should forget, and look too much downwards, and perfectly useless; the flagstaff, and nothing but the flagstaff, was “the cause of all the evil’—and there were not wanting ill-disposed Europeans who encouraged this belief, as I think with the purpose to bring on a war. O 194 HEKEH’S WAR IN THE not keep their eyes continually rolling about in search of an enemy. Great, indeed, was the fear of the Maori when they heard of these soldiers, for all the pakeha agreed in saying that they would attack any one their chief ordered them to attack, no matter whether there was any just cause or not; that they would fight furiously till the last man was killed, and that nothing could make them run away. Fear came like a cold fog on all the Ngapuhi, and no chief but Heke had any courage left. But Heke called together his people, and spoke to them saying, “‘I will fight these soldiers, I will cut down the flagstaff, I will fulfil the last words of Hongi Ika. Be not afraid of these soldiers, ‘all men are men.’* The soldiers are not gods; lead will kill them; and if we are beaten at last, we shall be beaten by a brave and noble people, and need not be ashamed.” So Heke sent runners to all the divisions of the Ngapuhi, saying, ‘“ Come, stand at my back; the red garment is on the shore. Let us fight for our country. Remember the last words of Hongi Ika—Kez hea koutou kia toa.” But the chiefs of the Ngapuhi hapu said amongst themselves, ‘‘ How long will the fire of the Maori burn ~ before it is extinguished?” 1 This is a native saying or proverb, meaning that in fact one man is as good as another, or that the best or bravest man is but a man, and therefore not to be too much feared. The speech is a literal verbatim translation. NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 195 So the Ngapuhi chiefs would not join Heke for fear of the soldiers, but said, ‘‘ We will wait till a battle has been fought, and if he is successful, then we will join him.” So Heke, therefore, went with his own family and people, and those of his elder relation Kawiti, and the Kapotae, and some others, altogether about 400 men. He went to fight with the soldiers at Kororareka, and to cut down his old enemy the flagstaff. Heke and Kawiti having arrived at Tokerau, and having fixed upon the day of attack, they agreed that Kawitishould attack the town of Kororareka, to draw off the attention of the soldiers who guarded the flag- staff on the hill of Maiki, so that Heke should have an opportunity to cut it down, for Heke had said that he would cut down the flagstaff, and he was resolved to make his word true. When they had formed this plan, and night was come, the priests of the war party threw darts to divine the event.* They threw one for Heke, and one for the soldiers, and one for the flag- staff: and the dart for Heke went straight, and fair, and fortunate; but the dart for the soldiers turned to 1 Before a war or any other important matter, the natives used to have recourse to divination, by means of little miniature darts made of rushes or reeds, or often of the leaf of the cooper’s flag (raupo). This was very much believed in, but of course the chiefs and priests or tohunga (such of them as did not de- ceive themselves) could make the result favourable or otherwise as they liked. There is an allusion to a custom of this kind (divining by darts) in the Bible. 196 HERES WAR IN THLE one side, and fell with the wrong side up; so did that for the flagstaff. When this was told the people they were very glad, and had no longer any fear. Then Kawiti, who is himself a tohunga, threw a rakau for his own path—he threw one for himself and people, and one for the soldiers, and one for the town. The dart for Kawiti went straight and fair, but it turned wrong side up, which is the omen of death; and so also did the dart for the soldiers go fair and straight, but also turned wrong side up. And when Kawiti saw this, he said, “It is good. Here have I two darts ominous of success, and bravery, and death—our enemy will prove very strong and brave, they will suffer much from us, and so will we from them. I am not displeased, for this is war and not play.” Then Heke and Kawiti stood up in the night, and spoke long and with great spirit to their men, to give them courage; and when they had done speaking, Kawiti remained where he was near the sea, not far from the town; but Heke went inland, and before morn- ing he lay with his men in a hollow close to the flag- staff. Heke lay on the ground with his war party—close at hand were the sleeping soldiers. Amongst those soldiers there was not one tohunga, not a man at all experienced in omens, or they must have had some warning that great danger and defeat was near; but there they lay sleeping between the open jaws of war, and knew of no danger. This is the only foolishness I see about the pakeha—they are quite NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 197 ignorant and inexperienced in omens, and, indeed, care nothing at all about them.’ In the morning, before it was light, Kawiti rushed upon Kororareka. The young men did not look for the light of this world; their only thought was who should kill the first man, and elevate his name. But the soldiers met them in the path, and the fight began. Pumuka then gained a name; he killed the first man of the battle, but had not long to rejoice, for he himself fell a matazka for the pakeha.* Then the Maori charged to revenge Pumuka; the soldiers met them; the sailors charged sword in hand; a keen breeze of war was blowing then on Kororareka! The best men of both sides were in front; the sword met the tomahawk, and many fell; but of all the braves (toa) there, the chief of the sailors was the bravest; no man could stand up before his sword, and had he not been struck by a shot, the Maori would have been defeated—four men like him would have killed Kawiti and all his war party. This is what I have been told by Kawiti’s people who were _ 1 Tt astonished the natives greatly that the soldiers paid no attention to omens, and also to see them every five minutes doing something or another monstrously “unlucky.” * The first man killed in a battle is called the mataika. To kill the mataika is thought a great distinction, and young men will risk themselves to the utmost to obtain it. Many quarrels arise sometimes after a fight, in consequence of different indivi- duals claiming the honour of having killed the first man. The writer knows a man who in different battles has killed eleven mataika. s 198 HEEES “WAR IN THR in the fight. I did not see it myself, but was at every other fight in the war. When Kawiti attacked Kororareka, the soldiers at the flagstaff on the top of Maiki heard the firing, and left the flagstaff, and went straggling about the hill- side, trying to see what was going on below. They did not think of Heke or his words when he said he would cut down the flagstaff, neither did they re- member the orders of the Governor. They were very foolish; for while they were trying to see the fight between Kawiti and the soldiers and sailors, and thinking, perhaps, that the Maori did not know how to conduct an ambush, Heke started from the ground, and before they could turn round the flagstaff and their fort was taken. Some of them were killed, others ran away, and then the axes went to work, and the flagstaff was cut down. So this was the third time it fell, and there it les now. During this time, the fighting was still going on at Kororareka; but at last the Maori drew back, and the pakeha remained in the town. The Maori were not beaten, neither were the soldiers. Pumuka had been killed, and many others of Kawiti’s people were killed and wounded; several, also, of the pakeha had been killed, and their great toa, the chief of the sailors, was almost dead. So the words of Kawiti proved true: both he and his enemy had done bravely, and had equal success, and both had suf- fered much. In the afternoon the Maori began to perceive that the pakeha were leaving the town, and going on NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 199 board the ships, so they returned to the town and began to plunder, and the people of the town plun- dered also, so both parties quietly plundered the town of Kororareka, and did not quarrel with one another. At last, all the town people and soldiers went on board the ships, and then the ship of war fired at the Maori people who were plundering in the town. The noise of the firing of the ship guns was very great, and some of Kawiti’s people were near being hit by the lumps ofiron. This was not right, for the fight was over, and the people were only quietly plundering the town which had been left for them, and which they had given fair payment for; but, I suppose, the sailors thought their chief was dying, and fired a volley (wazpu) for his sake. So the sailors may have an argument in their favour; but the Maori did not at the time think of this, so in revenge they burnt Kororareka, and there was nothing left but ashes; and this was the beginning of the war. Well, you pakeha are a noble-minded people; it was very generous of you to give up Kororareka to be plundered and burnt for wtw for the Maori. If you had been beaten you could not have helped it; but as you were not beaten, I say it was very noble of you to give up the town. You are always giving us something, so you gave Kawiti and Heke a town full of blankets, and tobacco, and money, and all sorts of property, and rum! It was very good of you. [ wish I had been there. When Kororareka was burnt, and all the Euro- 200 HEKE’S WAR IN THE peans had sailed to the town at Waitamata, which we now began to hear was called Auckland, then Heke went to stop at Ahuahu, and the news of the battle was heard all over the country, and then many men came to join Heke, but no whole hapu came, for most of the Ngapuhi chiefs said, ‘‘ Now tens of thousands of soldiers will come to fight with Heke, and he will be utterly destroyed.” But when all Heke’s people were together they were about 700 men. Now, when Thomas Walker Nene heard that the war had actually begun, and that Kororareka had fallen, he called together his family and all his friends, and said he would fight against Heke, and seek revenge for his friends the pakeha people. Walker had been always a friend and protector to the Euro- peans; and also Hongi Ika, Heke’s relation, had killed in former times Te Tihi, at Hokianga, and swallowed his eyes, and Te Tihi was a matua (elder relation) to Walker. And Te Tao Nui came to join Walker, and brought with him all his family and relations, many fighting men; only one man of his family did not come—that man went to help Heke. Te Tao Nui had always, like Walker, been a good friend to the Europeans, and he was also an ancient enemy of Hongi Ika. And the tribe of Ngati Pou came to help Walker. Formerly they had been a great tribe, but Hongi Ika had driven them from their country and slain most of their warriors; but they in return wounded Hongi, and he died of that wound some years after- wards. They came to help Walker, in search of NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 201 revenge against Hongi Ika, for Heke and Hongi are the same. This tribe of Ngati Pou brought forty men to help Walker, which was all left alive by Hongi, but they fought well, for their hatred to _Hongi was great; they fought through the whole war, and never were absent from any fight. The first man killed in the war between Walker and Heke was killed by a Ngati Pou, and the first man who fell on our side was a Ngati Pou, and the last man who fell in the war was also a Ngati Pou; their chief, Hakaraia, was wounded, and several others of the forty men were killed. And all the young men of the Hikutu came to help Walker; they came to practise war, and elevate their names; but their handsome and brave young chief, Hauraki, fell at Waikare, for such is the ap- pearance of war; and many young men came from different tribes (hapu) to jom Walker, and to perfect themselves in the practice of war. And I, your friend, went also with my two younger brothers, my four sons, and my daughter’s husband, and nine cousins (tema keke), and three slaves— twenty men of us, all tino tangata, who had seen war.* I went because when the ancestors of Heke fought against mine, the ancestors of Walker came to help 1 This is a very good example of the manner in which a native chief raises men for a war party; they are all his relations with their different connections, and it is this which causes the natives to be so careful to remember all who are, however remotely, re- lated to them. Ina word, to be “a man of many cousins”’ is to be a great chief. 202 HEKE’S WAR IN THH my forefathers, because they were related to each other; so I and Walker are relations; but I don’t know exactly what the relationship is, for eleven generations have passed since that ancient war; but Walker and I are aware that we are related, and always come to each other’s help in war. When Walker had got all his men together, they were in number about 500, and he went with them to Okaihau and built a pa, and Heke was at Te Ahuahu with his men. Te Ahuahv is not far from Okaihau, and there was fighting between them every day. Several of Walker’s relations were killed, and the brother of Te Tao Nui was also killed, and his son badly wounded; but in every fight Heke lost most men, and had the worst of the battle. So Heke sent a messenger to Walker, saying, “ If you go on this way, when the soldiers return there will be no one to fight them. Who will there be to fight with you, and who to fight the red garment?” But Walker said, in answer, ‘‘I will fight on till I arrive at the end.” Then the messenger answered Walker, saying, ‘“‘ Behold the soothsayers foretell your death.” Then arose quickly Karere Horo, our priest, who answered in a loud voice, saying, ‘‘ Your soothsayers speak falsely. What sin has Walker committed that he should die in this war? I myself who now address you shall die, and many others, but Walker shall live.” Then Heke’s messenger, having saluted the people, took his gun and departed. Up to this time, no news had been heard from the NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 203 Governor at Auckland, and a pakeha came to the camp at Okaihau, and said to Walker’s people, ‘‘This is a bad thing you are doing, coming here to fight with Heke. The Governor when he hears of “it will be angry, and so will the Queen. You are only wasting your powder, and getting killed for nothing. The Governor will not give you any more gunpowder, and you will get no pay. Moreover, you are not fighting at all for the pakeha, or the Queen, you are fighting to revenge Te Tihi.” Then another pakeha who was in the camp, an old friend of Walker, arose and spoke to the people, and said, “‘ Pay no attention to what has been said by this man. Both the Go- vernor and the Queen will be well pleased to hear of your opposing Heke, and so will all the pakeha people. You will be ever after this looked on as true friends, and the Governor will give you plenty of gunpowder to replace what you have expended. Neither is this a war for Te Tihi, but for Kororareka; but if you remember Te Tihi also, how can you help it?” When we heard this speech we were encouraged, for we had begun to doubt whether we were doing right when we heard the speech of the first pakeha. On this same night the moon was eaten into by a star (eclipsed), and the light of the moon was quite obscured, and we all thought this an omen of great disaster to one party or the other in the battle to take place next morning. The fight, however, in the morning was no great matter; of Heke’s people there were three killed and twenty wounded; and eleven of our men were wounded, but none killed. 204 HEKE’S WAR IN THE Walker’s old pakeha friends gave him gunpowder, and rifles, and other things, to enable him to fight Heke; and some of them came and stayed at the camp, and fought amongst his men, to show him that he was right in what he was doing, for Walker had not yet had any word from the Governor, and was only fighting on his own thought. Shortly after this, a letter came from the Governor, and with it the Governor sent gunpowder, and lead, and blankets, and flour, and sugar, and tobacco; so we saw then clearly that we were doing right. But there was only one letter for both Walker and Te Tao Nui; so Te Tao Nui was angry at this, for he thought there should have been a letter entirely for mal and he said he would leave the camp with all his men. He had more men, at that time, than Walker; but, however, he remained, and helped Walker to the last. After this, news came fre- quently from Auckland, and before long we heard that the soldiers were coming. ’ When Heke’s people heard that the soldiers were coming, most of them left him, and there remained but 200 men. Then Heke left Te Ahuahu, and came and built a pa not far from Taumata Tutu, on the clear ground by the lake; for he said he would fight. the soldiers on the spot where the last words of Hongi Ika had been spoken. The name of this pa of Heke’s was Te Kahika. | Now, when this new fort of Heke’s was finished, the spirit of the Ngakahi entered into the atua wera, who is the greatest tohunga in all the country of the NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 205 Ngapuhi. So the Ngakahi spoke in the night to Heke-and his people, by the mouth of the atua wera, ‘“‘ Be brave, and strong, and patient. Fear not the soldiers, they will not be able to take this fort— neither be you afraid of all those different kinds of big guns you have heard so much talk of. I will turn aside the shot, and they shall do you no harm; but this pa and its defenders must be made sacred (tapu). You must particularly observe all the sacred rites and customs of your ancestors; if you neglect this in the smallest particular, evil will befall you, and I also shall desert you. You who pray to the God of the missionaries, continue to do so, and in your praying see you make no mistakes. Fight and pray. Touch not the spoils of the slain, abstain from human flesh, lest the European God should be angry, and be careful not to offend the Maori gods It is good to have more than one God to trust to. This war party must be strictly sacred. Be brave, be strong, be patient.” * So Heke waited there at his fort at Mawhe, near Taumata Tutu, for the coming of the soldiers; and before long they arrived at Walker’s camp at Okai- hau, which was but a short distance from where Heke was. When these soldiers arrived they were very much fatigued, and quite without provisions, 1 This is word for word a literal translation of the speech of the atwa wera to Heke’s men. He was, however, supposed only to speak the words of the Ngakahi by whom he was at the moment inspired. 206 HEKE’S WAR IN THE and not at all fit to go to fight. They had been two nights on the road, one of which nights they lay out in the rain, and they had but a small quantity of ammunition. They had come by a long, bad road, up and down hill, though there was a good road open to them; and they were quite worn out, and not fit to fight at all. What could be the reason that the pakeha who knew the country did not tell the soldiers — to come up the Keri Keri in boats, and then along the cart road to the turn-off to Okaihau? If they had done this, they could have brought big guns in the boats, and provisions, and put. them in carts at the Keri Keri, and come along the cart road till they were not far from Walker’s camp. If they had done this, the big guns would have knocked down the pa, for it was a very weak one, and it would have been taken, and the war would have ended; for it was because this very weak pa was not taken that the Maori kept on fighting, and caused so many men afterwards to be killed on both sides. Heke certainly had many friends amongst the Europeans, as why should he not? But the soldiers had with them a light gun, called a rocket, and this gun had a great name: it was said that it would go into the pa, and. twist and turn about in pursuit of the people until it had killed them every one. When we heard this we were sorry for Heke and his people, and were in great fear for our- selves lest it should turn round upon us also. When the soldiers had rested one night at Okaihau, they prepared to attack Heke’s pa; but early in the “y NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 207 morning, when they were getting something to eat, we observed many of them eating standing up; this gave us a good deal of uneasiness, for it has an un- lucky look to see warriors before going to battle eating their food standing. They should sit down and eat quietly, as if nothing was going to happen out of common; but, as I have said before, the soldiers are very inexperienced in these matters. When they had done eating, they formed to march to attack Heke. What a fine-looking people these soldiers are! Fine, tall, handsome people; they all look like chiefs; and their advance is like the advance of a flight of curlew in the air, so orderly and straight. And along with the soldiers came the sailors; they are of a different family, and not at all related to the soldiers,’ but they are a brave people, and they came 1 That the sailors were quite a different hapu, though belong- ing to the wi of England, and in no way “related” to the soldiers, I have heard often stated by the natives, as well as by the narrator of this story. Neither will we wonder at their having jumped at this conclusion, after having compared “Jack,” let loose for a run on shore, with the orderly soldiers. I will here take occasion to state that I shall not hold myself account- able for the many mistakes and misapprehensions of my old friend the Ngapuhi chief, when he speaks of us, our manners, customs, and motives of action; when he merely recounts the events and incidents of the war, he is to be fully depended on, being both correct and minutely particular in his relation, after the native manner of telling a story, to omit nothing. I have had, indeed, to leave out a whole volume of minute particulars, such as this for instance: where a pakeha would simply say, “we started in the morning after breakfast,” &c., the native would say, “in the morning the ovens were heated, and the food 208 HEEKE’S WAR IN. VHE to seek revenge for the relations they had lost in the fight at Kororareka. They had different clothes from the soldiers, and short guns, and long heavy swords; they were a people who talked and laughed more than the soldiers, and they flourished their guns about as they advanced, and ate tobacco. So the soldiers, sailors, and other Europeans ad- vanced to the attack of Heke’s pa, and with them was put in and covered up; when it was cooked it was taken out, and we eat it, and finished eating, then we got up and started,” &c. In the course of the narration I have translated, I have had to listen to the above formula about fifty times; the lighting of a pipe and the smoking it, or the seeing a wild pig (describing size and colour, &.), is never omitted, no matter if it is five seconds before commencing a battle. This is the true native way of telling a story, and it is even now a wonder to them to see how soon a Huropean tells the story of a journey, or voyage, or any event whatever. If a native goes on a journey of three days’ duration, during which nothing whatever of any consequence may have occurred, it will take him at least one whole day to tell all about it, and he is greatly annoyed at the impatient pakeha who wants to get the upshot of the whole story by impertinently saying, “ Did you get what you went for?” _ To tell that too soon would be out of all rule; every foot of the way must be gone over with every incident, however trivial, before the end is arrived at. They are beginning now to find that in talking to Europeans they must leave out one half at least of a story to save time, but the old men can’t help making the most of a chance of talking. To cut a story short seems to them a waste of words by not speaking them, while we think it a decided waste of words to speak them. In old times the natives had so few subjects for conversation that they made the most of what they had, which accounts for their verbosity in trifling matters. NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 209 came also Walker and his men; but before we had gone far, we observed the soldiers carrying on their shoulders certain things made of cloth and wood; these things were rolled up, and we did not know the use of them, so we asked what they were, and were told they were kauhoa on which to carry the dead or wounded! This was the worst of all; there were those soldiers going to battle, and actually carrying on their shoulders things to put themselves on when they were dead! So we began to say one to another, “ Those soldiers walking there are all dead men. It only wants a few guns to be fired, and they will be all killed.” So some of the chiefs told some of the chiefs of the soldiers what a dread- fully unlucky thing they were doing, but they all laughed, and said that they came there to fight, and that whenever people fought some one was sure to be killed or wounded, and that it was right to have something to carry them on. But our people said it was time enough to think of carrying a man when he could not stand, and that by what they were doing they were calling for death and destruction; and they tried hard to get the soldiers to throw away these things, but the soldiers would not listen to them. So we all said, ‘‘ This is not a war party here marching on this plain, but a mate (a funeral proces- sion); so all the Maori left the soldiers, and went and sat on the top of the hill called Taumata Kaka- ramu, except about forty men, Walker’s relations, who would not leave him. We felt sorry for the soldiers; but we said, “ Let them fight their own P 2 210 HEKE’S WAR IN THE battle to-day, and if they are successful we will help them in every other fight.” But no one could believe they would be successful. At last the soldiers and sailors got before Heke’s pa; the main body of the soldiers remained opposite to it, at the side next to Walker’s camp—the rest, about one hundred men, sailors and soldiers, went round by the shore of the lake, which was on the right of the pa, and so got behind it; and on that side there was but one slight fence, and no pekerangt.. The soldiers had told us in the morning that they would rush on both sides of the pa at once, and that it would be taken in a moment, and that then they would come home to breakfast. So now the soldiers were in front of the pa, and also behind it; and on the right was the lake, and on the left was Walker with about forty men, and be- hind Walker there was a wood—he was between the wood and the pa. Then the soldiers who had the rocket gun went a 1 Heke’s pa at the lake, the first we ever attacked, was the weakest ever built by the natives in the war. Had it not been for Kawiti’s appearance just at the moment the storming party were about to advance, and thus making a diversion, it would most certainly have been taken, and as certain all its defenders killed or taken prisoners; for if the soldiers had entered then, the friendly natives, who were outside in great numbers, would have prevented any escaping. As it turned out, however, the place was not taken, and this gave the natives courage to con- tinue the war, in the course of which they acquired so much confidence, that now they think less of fighting Huropeans, and are less afraid of them, than of their own countrymen. NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 211 little to the left front of the pa, and set the gun upon its legs, and pointed it straight at the pa. Then all the people on the top of Taumata Kakaramu fixed their eyes on this gun. We watched it closely, and held our breath, and had great fear for the people in the pa—for they were, although against us, all Nga- puhi, the same zw? as ourselves, and many of them our near relations—and we never expected to see them more by reason of this gun, we had heard so much of it. At last,a great smoke was seen to issue from one end of the gun, and the rocket came out of the other. At first it did not go very fast, but it had not gone far before it began to flame, and roar, and dart straight towards the pa. It had a supernatural appearance, and rushed upon the pa like a falling star; but just as it was about to enter the pa it swerved from its course, touched the ground outside, and then rose and flew away over the pa, without doing any harm, and no one could tell where that first rocket went to, for it was the Ngakahi, the familiar spirit of the atua wera, who had blown upon it with his breath and turned it away, according to his word when he spoke by the mouth of the tohunga ; for up to this time Heke and his people had kept strictly all the sacred customs, and infringed none of them. So the Ngakahi remained guarding them from all danger. When we saw that the first rocket had gone by the pa and done no harm, we all gave a great sigh, and our minds were eased; a second rocket was fired, and a third, and so till they were all gone, but 212 HEKE’S WAR IN THH not one did any harm, for the Ngakahi had turned them all away—not one entered the pa. Now, before the first rocket was fired, Heke came out of the front gate of the pa to watch the effect of the rocket, and he stood outside praying a Maori prayer, and holding with one hand to a post of the fence. Then the first rocket was fired; it came very near him, and passed away without doing any harm. Then another was fired, and missed also; so when Heke saw this, he cried out in a loud voice, ‘‘ What prize can be won by such a gun?”’ and this has be- come a saying amongst us from that day; for when- ever we hear a man boasting of what he can do, we think of the rocket, and cry, ‘‘ What prize can be won by such a gun ?” When the first rocket was fired it frightened all the dogs in the pa, and they ran barking away over the plain; and also one slave ran out of the pa. He was very much frightened, and he ran away by a path which went between the hundred soldiers and sailors who were behind the-pa, and Walker’s people, who were at the left side of it; and this slave never stopped running till he came to a place called Kai Namu, where Kawiti, who had marched all night to relieve Heke, had just arrived. And this slave ran up to Kawiti and his people, and began to cry 1 «7 aha te kat e pahurei aia.” My translation is not very literal; a literal translation would not give the sense to the reader not acquainted with the Maori language; my free trans- lation gives it exactly. NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND, 213 out, “ Oh, the soldiers have a frightful gun; it comes roaring and flaming.’ Here Kawiti stopped him, and said, ‘“‘ I know all about all sorts of guns; -all guns will kill, and all guns will also miss; this is the nature (ahua) of guns; but if you say one word more, I will split your head with my tomahawk.” So the slave became more afraid of Kawiti than he was of the rocket, and he ran away back to Heke, and told him that Kawiti with help was close at hand. When all the rockets had been fired, then the hun- dred men, soldiers and sailors, who were at the back of the pa, arose out of an old Maori pare pare, where they had been sheltered, and giving a great shout, turned to rush against the pa. Then Heke shouted to his men, ‘‘ Now let every man defend the spot he stands on, and think of no other; and I, on my side, will look to the great fish which lies extended on our front.”* And as Heke was saying this, the soldiers 1 The natives often call a line or column of mena fish, and this term is just as well understood as our “column,” “com- pany,” “battalion,” &c. I will here say that though the native language is, as might be supposed, extremely deficient in terms of art or science in general, yet it is quite copious in terms re- lating to the art of war. There is a Maori word for almost every infantry movement and formation. I have also been very much surprised to find that a native can, in terms well under- stood, and without any hesitation, give a description of a fortifi- cation of a very complicated and scientific kind, having set technical terms for every part of the whole—“ curtain, bastion, trench, hollow way, traverse, outworks, citadel,” &c. &c., being all well-known Maori words, which every boy knows the full meaning of. 214 HEKE’S WAR IN THH and sailors had begun to move towards the pa, when suddenly Kawiti with one hundred and forty men ap- peared close upon their right, and fired upon them. Then the soldiers turned quickly to the right and attacked Kawiti; they were close to each other, and some fought hand to hand. The soldiers, then, were pressed back, and forced to give way before the rush of Kawiti and his men; but soon they rallied to the call of their chiefs, and charged with the bayonet, and then a close fight ensued, in which twenty of Kawiti’s _ men were slain, and many wounded. Several of them were chiefs, and among them was one of Kawiti’s sons, being the second son he had lost in the war; the other fell at Kororareka. [Kawiti’s men then retreated, — and the soldiers chased them as far as the path in the hollow, which leads to Ahuahu, and there the last Maori was killed by the foremost soldier. There is a stone placed there where that Maori fell, and close to that stone by the side of the path the soldier is also buried, for a shot from the pa struck him, and he fell there. He was a great toa, that soldier; in this fight whenever he pointed his gun a man fell, and he ran so fast in pursuit that there was no escape from him; but he fell there—for such is the appearance of war. The musket is a bad weapon, the worst of all weapons; for let a man be as brave as he may, he cannot stand up before it long. Great chiefs are killed from a distance by no one knows who, and the strength of a warrior is useless against it. | As the soldiers chased Kawiti, the pa fired on them from the left, so that they had Kawiti in front and — “ > ’ | yt a + ‘ke : oa NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 215 the pa on the left, both firing, and therefore lost many men; but having beaten Kawiti off, they returned and took shelter in the Maori breastwork, and began again to fire at the pa. So they fired, and the pa re- turned the fire, and the main body of the soldiers who were at the front of the pa fired. Lead whistled through the air in all directions, the whole country seemed on fire, and brave men worked their work. Then Tupori, a chief who was in the pa with Heke, saw that Kawiti had elevated his name, for he had fought the soldiers hand to hand twice—once at Kororareka, and once on this day; and seeing this, Tupori wished also to do something to make his name heard; he therefore cried out for only twenty men to follow him, and he would charge the soldiers. Then twenty men rushed out of the pa with Tupori; they ran straight up the hill to the breastwork, the soldiers firing on them all the time, but without hitting one man. So Tupori and his twenty men came quite up to the breastwork, and stood upon the top of the bank, and fired their double-barrel guns in the sol- diers’ faces, and drove them out of the breastwork. The soldiers retreated a short distance, and Tupori and his people began collecting the bundles of car- tridges which the soldiers had left behind; and while they were doing this, the soldiers suddenly came rushing upon them. Their charge was very grand, and terrible to look at. They came rushing on in creat anger, shouting and cursing at the Maori. So Tupori and his men ran away to the pa, and as they ran the soldiers fired at their backs, and killed two 216 HEKE’S WAR IN THE men, and wounded Tupori in the leg. The rest got safe into the pa, and took Tupori and the two dead men along with them. Great is the courage of Tupori! he has made his name heard as that of a toa. But it was not right for the soldiers to curse the Maori, for up to this time nothing wrong had been done on either side, and so the Maori were much surprised to hear the soldiers cursing and swearing at them. After this the soldiers fired at the pa all day, but only killed three men, besides the two men killed in the charge of Tupori; these five men were all killed belonging to the pa that day. When it was near night, the soldiers went back to Walker’s camp at Okaihau, taking with them their wounded, and also two or three dead; but about ten dead were left be- hind at Taumata Tutu, where they fell in the fight with Kawiti. So Heke remained in possession of the battle plain (te papa), and his pa was not taken, and he buried the dead of the soldiers. But one soldier who had been wounded, and left behind by the side of the lake, was found next morning by two slaves, and they pre- tended they were friends, and got his gun from him, ind then they took him to the lake and held his head under water till he was dead. Next morning after the battle the soldiers returned to the Keri Keri, and Walker went with his people to help them to carry the wounded. And Hauraki, the young chief of the Hikutu, went also with thirteen of his people to assist in carrying the wounded soldiers; NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 217 but the rest of his tribe, being one hundred men, re- mained behind at Okaihau, for it was not expected there would be any more fighting for some days. But when the soldiers and Walker’s people came to the Keri Keri, the Maori chiefs of Walker’s party talked of attacking the Kapotai at Waikare, in the Bay of Islands, because they were allies of Kawiti; so they went and told their minds to the chiefs of the sol- diers, who agreed to do so, for they were angry at not having been able to take Heke’s pa at Taumata Tutu. So when the soldiers and Walker’s people came to the Bay of Islands, they each separated a party to attack the Kapotai. They went up the Waikare river in the night in canoes and boats, with great precau- tion, hoping to surprise the Kapotai, and so to revenge their dead who had fallen at Taumata Tutu; but before they got near to the pa, the wild ducks in the river started up and flew over the pa, which alarmed the Kapotai, and caused them to suspect that an enemy was coming up the river, so they took arms and watched for the approach of the war party. And soon the soldiers were near, but it was not yet day- light. Then the men of the Kapotai called out, “If you are Maori warriors who come in the night, come on, we will give you battle; but if you are soldiers, here is our pa, we give it you.” They soon discovered the soldiers, and then they went out at the back of the pa, and left it for the soldiers to plunder, as pay- ment for Kororareka, which was very right. So the soldiers and Walker’s Maori plundered the pa of the Kapotai, and killed all the pigs. 218 HEKE’S WAR IN THE After the Kapotai pa had been plundered and burnt, Walker and his men went in pursuit of the Kapotai, who had retreated into the forest, but the soldiers re- mained behind on the clear ground near the pa. Walker, Mohi, and Repa went into the woods with three hundred men, followed the Kapotai, and over- took them. When the Kapotai perceived they were followed, their anger was very great, so they turned, and fought with great courage against Walker. Walker was not able to beat them, so they remained a long time fighting in the forest. But Hauraki, the young Hikutu chief, had, with his thirteen men, taken another path, and he met the young chief of the Kopatai, who had with him sixty men, and they were both young men and fighting for a name, so a despe- rate fight commenced. Hauraki and his thirteen men thought not of the light of the sun or the number of the enemy; their only thought was of war, and to elevate their names. It was a close fight, and when- ever the rifle of Hauraki was heard a man fell, and soon he had killed or wounded several of the Kapotai, who began to fall back. Then Hauraki cried out to the retreating Kapotai, “ Fly away on the wings of the wood-pigeon, and feed on the berries of the wood, for I have taken your land.” Then a certain slave of. the Kapotai said, ‘‘That is Hauraki, a very noble born man. He is a chief of Te Hikutu, and of Te Rarawa, and of Te Ngati Kuri.” Now when Hari the young Kapotai chief heard this, he cried aloud to Hauraki, saying, “ Swim you away on the backs of NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 219 the fish of the sea,’ there is no land for you here.” Then these two young warriors drew nearer to each other. Hauraki had just loaded his rifle, but the caps which he had were too small, and he was a long time trying to put on the cap. While he was doing this, Hari fired at him, and the ball struck him on the breast and passed out at his back; but so great was his strength and courage that he did not fall, but took another cap and fixed it, and then fired at the Kapotai chief, and the ball struck him on the side under the arm-pit, and went out at the other arm-pit. So Hari staggered and felldead. When Hauraki saw this, he said, “I die not unrevenged,” and then sank gentlyto - the ground. His people then seeing this, two of them led him away towards the rear. The Kapotai also carried away their chief, and then, enraged at his death, rushed upon the Hikutu, who were now only eight in number, the rest having been killed or wounded. These eight were tno tangata (practised warriors), but were too few in number, and had lost their chief; so when the Kapotai rushed upon them they lost heart and fled, and the Kapotai chased them, and soon the foremost of the flying Hikutu overtook Hauraki and the two men who were leading him off. Then Hauraki said, ‘‘ Do not remain with me to die, but hide me in the fern and escape yourselves, and go to my relation Walker, and tell him to muster all his people, and come and carry me off.” So they all 1 Tn allusion to the fact of the war party having come by water. 220 HEKE’S WAR IN THH pressed their noses to the nose of Hauraki, one after another. And tears fell fast, and the balls from the guns of the Kapotai whistled round their heads, so while some returned the fire of the enemy, others hid Hauraki in the long fern. When this was done, they all fled, and escaped with great difficulty; for while they were hiding Hauraki the Kapotai had surrounded them, and they would never have escaped at all but for the great courage of Kaipo and Te Pake, Hauraki’s cousins, who broke through the Kapotai, and opened a way for the rest. Now, when Hauraki’s eight men got on the clear ground, they found that the soldiers were getting into the boats to go away, and Walker, Mohi, and Repa had just come out of the forest from fighting with the Kapotai, and Hauraki’s cousins ran to Walker, and said “ Our friend’? is left behind wounded in the forest, and likely to be taken by the Kapotai.” Then Walker was very much dismayed when he heard this, and he and Mohi ran to the chiefs of the soldiers and desired them to remain for a short time till he should rescue Hauraki, but the soldiers could not understand what Walker meant, for the speaker of Maori (the interpreter to the force) had already gone away in one of the boats, and there 1 The natives when speaking to each other seldom mention their chief except as “our friend,” or, if he be an old man, as “our leader.” Speaking to Europeans, however, they often say our rangatira, that having become the only word in use among the Europeans to signify the chief of a tribe, though it may also mean many other ranks, according as it is applied. NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 221 was a great confusion, every one trying to get away, and Walker’s men were also getting into their canoes and going away, and boats and canoes were running foul of each other, and the creek was choked with them. Then came the Kapotai in great force with their allies out of the forest, and commenced firing on the departing tawa from a distance of about two hundred fathoms, so the soldiers and Walker got away and returned to Kororareka, and left Hauraki lying alone in the forest, for their bellies were full of fighting. So he lay there till midnight, and the night was cold and wet, and he kept continually thinking what a disgrace it would be to his family if he should be taken alive.* And as he lay thus, he saw” the spirit of the greatest warrior of all his an- cestors, who said to him, “ Arise! Shall my de- scendant be taken alive?” Then Hauraki said, “* I am a mere man, not like unto my ancestors, half god 1 That weakness is crime with the natives is a fact, and in consequence the disgrace of being taken prisoner of war degrades a native as much as with us it would degrade a man to be con- victed of felony. I have heard two natives quarrelling when one called the other “slave,” because his great-grandfather had been once made prisoner of war. The other could not deny the traditional fact, and looked amazingly chop-fallen. He, however, tried to soften the blow by stating that even if his ancestor had been made prisoner, it was by a section of his own tribe, and consequently by his own relations he was defeated. Thus en- deavouring to make a “ family affair” of it. 2 Poor Hauraki was no doubt delirious from the effects of his wound, and no doubt thought he saw the’ vision he recounted when his people found him. 222 HEKE’S WAR IN THE and half man.”? Then the spirit said, “ In the mind is the strength of the body. Arise!” So Hauraki arose, and travelled a long way in the night till he found a small canoe by the river side; then he pulled down the river towards the Bay of Islands till the canoe upset; then he swam on shore, and when he got to the shore he was almost dead; but near to where he landed was the house of a pakeha, and the mother of this pakeha was Hauraki’s cousin, so that pakeha took him and concealed him in the house, and took care.of him, and before the middle of the day a party of Walker’s men arrived therein search of him. So they took him to the Bay of Islands, and the doctors of the soldiers did what they could to cure him, but without success. So his tribe, who had arrived at Okaihau, carried him home to his own place at Hokianga, where he died. When Hauraki died, and his body lay at Wirinake to be seen for the last time by his relations, there was a great gathering of the Rarawa and Ngapuhi, 1 One of the ancestors of Hauraki, according to a tradition of the Rarawa, hearing, even in the Reinga (the Maori Hades), of the warlike renown of one of his sons, became jealous of his fame, and returned to this world. Emerging from amongst the | waves at Ahipara, on the west coast, where his son lived, he challenged him to single combat. At the first onset the son had the worst. Then the father said, ‘Had you been equal to your ancestors I would have remained here as your companion in arms; but you are degenerate and a mere man. I return to the Reinga, to be with the heroes of the olden time.” He then disappeared in the waves. — ny NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 223 to fulfil the last rights due to a chief. And when the pihe had been sung,’ then the chiefs arose one after another to speak in praise of the dead. This was the speech of Te Anu, he who is known as having been in his youth the best spearman of all the Nega- puhi tribes. Bounding too and fro before the corpse, with his famous spear in hand, he spoke as follows: ‘Farewell, Hauraki! go, taking with you your kind- ness and hospitality, your generosity and valour, and leave none behind who can fill your place. Your death was noble; you revenged yourself with your own hand; you saved yourself without the help of any man. Your life was short; but so it is with heroes. Farewell, O Hauraki, farewell.” At this time it was night, and the sister and also the young wife of Hauraki went in the dark and sat beside the river. They sat weeping silently, and spinning a cord wherewith to strangle themselves. The flax was wet with their tears. And as they did this the moon arose. So when the sister of Hauraki saw the rising moon, she broke silence, and lamented 1 The pihe is a funeral chant sung standing before the dead. It is a very curious composition, and of great antiquity, having been composed long before the natives came to this country. Part of the language is obsolete. It has allusions which point in a remarkable manner to the origin of the natives, and from whence they have come. They do not themselves understand these allusions, but they are clear enough to any person who has taken the trouble to trace the race from which they are de- rived through the Pacific Islands, far into north latitude, next into Asia, and to observe the gradual modifications of language and tradition occasioned by time and change of abode. 224 HEKEH’S WAR IN THE aloud, and this was her lament—the part I remember of it :— It is well with thee,O moon! You return from death, Spreading your light on the little waves. Men say, “‘ Behold the moon re-appears ;”’ But the dead of this world return no more. Grief and pain spring up in my heart as from a fountain. I hasten to death for relief. Oh, that I might eat those numerous soothsayers Who could not foretell his death. Oh, that I might eat the Governor, For his was the war! At this time men came who were in search of these women, and prevented the sister of Hauraki from killing herself at that time. They watched her for several days, but she died of grief. But the wife of Hauraki consented to live that she might rear her son, so that he might fight with the Kapotai on a future day. So she called his name Maiki, which is the name of the hill on which stood the flagstaff, the cutting down of which was the cause of the war. He was, therefore, called by this name, that he might always be reminded of his father’s death. | The lament of the sister of Hauraki was sung by all the divisions of all the Ngapuhi, from the west coast to Tokerau. And when Walker heard it he - was displeased, and said, ‘‘ It is wrong to sing about eating the Governor, for soon people who do not know the song well will make mistakes, and sing, ‘Oh, that I might eat Heke,’ which would be the worst of all. As for the priests or soothsayers, it is no matter; they are all a set of fools.” So now i — NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 225 when people sing that lament, they only say, ‘“ Oh, that I might eat the numerous priests” (tin? to- hunga). So Hauraki was taken to Te Ramaroa, a cave in the mountains, behind Wirinake, where his ancestors are buried, and then three hundred men of Te Hikutu, Natikuri, Te Rarawa, and Walker’s people armed, and entered the country of the Kapotai, to fire powder in remembrance of Hauraki* (paura mamae.) They de- stroyed the cultivations, and got much plunder; but the Kapotai retired to the forest, and would not fight, for they knew this was a war party of the tribe of Hauraki, who came bearing the weapons of grief (patu mamae), and, therefore, they would not fight. So the taua came to the spot where Hauraki had fallen, and there fired many volleys of musketry in honour of the dead, and then returned unmolested to. their own country. The behaviour of the Kapotai in this matter was correct. We all know that it was not fear that prevented them from attacking us; they respected the grief of the people and relations of Hauraki, and made way before them, which was a noble thought (whakaaro rangatira). 1 Tt is a native custom, when any chief of importance has been killed in fair fight, for his friends to form a party and enter even the enemy’s country, should he have fallen there, and fire some volleys in his honour on the spot where he fell. This they call paura mamae—powder of pain or grief. They, of course, do it at the risk of being attacked, but the natives often allow the custom to be fulfilled without molesting the party, although a party of this kind always plunder and ravage all before them. Q 226 HHKE’S WAR IN THE When Heke heard of the death of Hauraki, he said, ‘‘ Now, if I am slain in this war, it matters not, for there is no greater Ngapuhi Chief than Hau- raki.” What Heke said was true; but he said it to please Te Hikutu, for Heke is a man of many thoughts. At this same time, Te Tao Nui, who was at Okai- hau, heard that most of Heke’s men had gone from Te Ahuahu to Ohaeawae to kill cattle for food; for by this time Heke had abandoned his pa, near Taumaia Tutu, which the soldiers had attacked, and gone to another fort of his at Te Ahuahu, to be near the cultivations. So Te Tao Nui took sixty men, and went on a dark rainy night and took the pa at the Ahuahu by surprise, and the people in it only fired two shots and fled. So Te Tao Nui remained in possession of Heke’s fort at the Ahuahu, and all Heke’s provision fell into his hands, and also the road to Ohaeawae was opened, for this fort was on the path. Then Walker abandoned his camp at Okaihau and joined Te Tao Nui in Heke’s pa, and as they found there plenty of provisions, they determined to remain there till the soldiers should return again from Auckland. But Heke was very much enraged to see his fort and provisions thus snatched from him, and he deter-. mined to retake it before the soldiers should return from Auckland to help Walker. So he sent messen- gers to all parts of the country where he had friends, and to the old chiefs who were still alive who had been companions of the great Hongi in the old wars. NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 227 And they came, and with them came Te Kahakaha, he who had been Hongi’s chosen friend. He had seen more battles than any man now alive, and was a very brave and experienced leader. He came to assist Heke, and to show him how his fathers had fought. When Heke’s war party had assembled, they were, in number, about eight hundred men; and, after having rested a few days at Ohaeawae, they marched before daylight to attack Walker and Te Tao Nui at Te Ahuahu, and to retake Heke’s pa. Walker, Tao Nui, Moses, and Wi Repa, with his two brothers, were the principal chiefs of Walker’s party at this time, and they had with them only about three hun- dred men, for many of Walker’s friends had returned to Hokianga, to fetch pork and other provisions, for they did not expect to be attacked so soon. Now in the morning before daylight, an old slave woman went out from the pa of Walker to pick up sticks for firewood. And there was a thick fog lying close to the ground; and before the old woman had gone far she saw a black line of something coming out of a cloud of fog, and as she was wondering what this might be, she suddenly perceived that it was a taua of armed men, and they had got within fifty fathoms of the pa,’ so she cried aloud the cry of alarm—Te Whakaarikt e! Te Whakaariki e!—and a a 1 The natives estimate distances by fathoms and tens of fathoms. = -* Se NORTH OF NEW ZEALAND. 249 die for the land!—die for the land!” Other chiefs spoke to the people, and some of the young men left the trenches, and called to the old men to lead them out to fight the soldiers in the open plain before the pa; but Haupokeha, in great anger, said, “‘ No; this shall not be done: return to your stations, and you shall see the enemy walk alive into the oven: they are coming only to their own destruction.” At this moment the bugle sounded, and the soldiers came charging on, shouting after the manner of European warriors, and those who were on Walker’s hill shouted also; and we Maori behind the pa shouted also; and the whole valley resounded with the anger of the pakeha! Soon the soldiers were within twenty fathoms of the fort; and then the fire darted from under the pekerangi; the noise of guns was heard, and the foremost soldiers fell headlong to the ground. But the soldiers are very brave: they charged right on, and came up to the pekerangi, which is the outer fence, and began to tear it to pieces with their hands. Then Philpots, when he saw the sailors charge, left the big gun and ran across the plain, and joined them; and he, being a toa, shouted to his men to be resolute, and destroy the fence; and then, with one pull, the sailors brought down about five fathoms of the pekerangi; and then they were before the true fence, which being made of whole trees placed up- right and fixed deeply in the ground, could not be pulled down at all. All this time the fire from inside through the loopholes continued unceasingly, 250 HEKE’S WAR IN THE at the distance of one arm’s length from where the soldiers were standing, and also a heavy fire came from a flanking angle at a distance of ten fathoms; and in this angle there was a big gun; it was heavily loaded with powder, and for shot there was put into it a long bullock chain, and this was fired into the midst of the soldiers, doing great damage. So the soldiers fell there, one on the other, in great num- bers; but not one thought of running away. And Philpots did all a man could do to break down the inside fence, but it could not be done at all; so he ran along this fence till he saw a small opening which had been made to fire a big gun through, and he tried to get through this opening, at the same time calling to his men to follow. Then the people in the pa saw him, and about ten men fired at him, but all missed, and he almost got into the midst of the place, still calling on his men to follow, when a young lad fired at him, and killed him dead at once. So he lay there dead with his sword in his hand, like a toa as he was; but the noise and smoke, shouting and confusion, were so great as to prevent his men from perceiving that he was killed, and bearing off his body, for such is the appearance of war. Also, a chief of the soldiers was killed ~ j (Captain Grant), and another died of his wounds, and there was a long line of dead and wounded men lying along the outside of the fence, and soon all would have been killed, but the chief of the soldiers, seeing this, sounded a call on the tetere (bugle) for them to retreat. And then, but not before, the NORTH OF NEW ZHALAND. 251 soldiers began to run back, taking with them most of the wounded; but about forty dead were left behind, under the wall of the pa. This battle did not take up near so long a time as I am telling of it, and in it about one hundred and ten Europeans were killed or wounded. Great is the courage of the soldiers! They will walk quietly at the command of their chiefs to certain death; there is no people to be compared to them; but they were obliged to retreat. The number of men in the fort was about one hundred and seventy, and the part attacked was defended by the hapu of Pene Taui, in number just forty men. So the war runners ran through all the north, saying—“ One wing of England is broken, and hangs dangling on the ground.” Before saying any more of this fight, I must tell you of two slaves—one called Peter, who belonged to Kaetoke, and the other called Tarata, who belongs to Ti Kahuka. Many years ago Tarata went to England in a large ship, and having gone ashore to see what he could see, he lost his way in the great town called London. So, in the night, the police found him wandering about, and took him prisoner, and put him in the whareherehere (watch-house), for they thought he had stolen a bundle of clothes