THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID J. C. CORDING & CO. (Corner of Air Street) THE ORIGINAL MAKERS OF THE VENTILATED WATERPROOF COATS FOR RIDING, WALKING, and FISHING. "FMd," July 17 and 31, 1869. CORDING'S FISHING BOOTS Are celebrated for their Softness. THEIR FISHING STOCKINGS & BROGUES Are Unequalled. WATERPROOFS FOR THE TROPICS Are Guaranteed. No Connection with any other House. The Original Business carried on at 19, PICCADILLY, LONDON. BREECHLOADERS. Largest Stock in London. Latest Improvements, with Hammers below Line of Sight, Compressed Steel Barrels, Choke Bore, etc. Superior Guns, in Pairs and Sets of Three, fitted in same case, ready finished as in Stock, or made to Order. SPECIAL PIGEON GUNS, Of great power, Hurlingham weight, Whitworth steel tubes, marvellous pattern. Trial at our Private Shooting Grounds. HAMMEBLESS GUNS, Further Improvements in TOP LEVER, SIDE LOCKS, SAFETY SCEARS, with Block interposing. SECOND-HAND CENTRAL-FIRES, BY ALL THE LEADING MAKERS. EXCELLENT PLAIN GUNS & HAMMERLESS GUNS At Low Prices, Ten to Fifteen Guineas. KEEPERS' GUNS, Five Guineas and upwards. HOOK RIFKES, The best patterns yet introduced. Perfect accuracy, good workmanship, Five Guineas ; Pistol-hand, Top-Lever, Patent Spring Ejector, etc., Six, Seven, and Eight Guineas. Fine assortment to select from. E. M. REILLY & CO. 277 (315), Oxford St., W. ; 16 (502), New Oxford St. RUE SCRIBE, PARIS. Sole Agents for Sharp's American Rifles. JAMES PURDEY & SONS, 287 & 289 (late 3144), OXFORD ST., W., dmn anb |tifk JEanuf actum;0, BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT TO Her Majesty the Queen, H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, H.M. the King of Spain, and to most of the Royal Families of Europe, Beg to inform their Patrons that in consequence of the expiration of the lease of their old premises as above (where they have been established since early in the present century), and of the increasing demand for their manufactures, they have erected new and extensive Premises, AUDLEY HOUSE, on the site of Nos. 57 and 58, SOUTH AUDLEY STREET, W., and 85, MOUNT STREET, W., to which, when finished, they will remove, besides large factories close by. By this means, and with an increased staff of the most skilled work- men, they will be enabled, while devoting the same experience and scrupulous care to the manufacture of their weapons which has rendered the latter so famous among the best sportsmen in all countries, to better keep pace with the extra demand which there has been for their manufactures for some time past. Their New Patent Rebounding Hammerless Gun is for Strength, Lightness, and Simplicity of construction, the best Hammerless Gun made. Extra Express Double Rifles for Deerstalking on the above principle afford great safety in having no hammers or outside bolts to be caught in stalking. These Rifles (-400 to -577 bore) are also made with hammers, and are the fastest and most effective ever produced. The demand is still rather for Central-fire Guns with hammers, in which, in addition to the lightness and balance for which they are so celebrated, Messrs. PURDEY & SONS have made many improvements. Inexpensive Rook and Rabbit Rifles on a new plan, with improved sights, with which it is possible to hit a shilling every time at 65 yards. Cartridges of the best quality (for which they employ specially made cases) filled on the premises by experienced loaders, at moderate prices. JAMES PURDEY & SONS, 287 & 289 (late 314J), OXFORD STREET, LONDON, W. iii SCHULTZE GUNPOWDER. The Schultze Gunpowder has Greater Penetration, with Less Smoke, Less Fouling, and Less Recoil, than Black Powder, and was used by all the Prize Winners at the International Meeting, 1881. EACH CANISTER BEARS A LABEL WITH THE TRADE MARK. THE ATTENTION OF SPORTSMEN IS SPECIALLY DIRECTED TO THE NEW GRANULATED POWDER. To be had Retail and in Cartridges, from most respectable Dealers, and Wholesale at the Company's Offices, 3, BUCKLERSBURY, LONDON, E.G. IV ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. ; ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. GROUSE AND PTARMIGAN SHOOTING, DEER STALKING, SALMON AND TROUT FISHING, ©tfjer BY FRED FEILD WHITEHURST. (A Veteran.) AUTHOK OF "TALLYHO," "HABKA.WAY," ETC. On yonder mountain's purple head, • Have ptarmigan and heath-cock bled, And our broad nets have swept the mere To furnish forth your evening cheer. — Scott. LONDON : TINSLEY BROTHERS, 8, CATHERINE ST., STRAND, W.C. 1882. CHABLES DICKENS AND EVAN?, CBYSTAL PALACE PBESS. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. " GOING NORTH " • . . 9 CHAPTER II. ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS 15 CHAPTER III. CLIMBING THE CAIRNWALL 23 CHAPTER IV. LOCH NA-NEAN 33 CHAPTER V. AMONGST THE PTARMIGAN 41 CHAPTER VI. FAREWELL TO THE HIGHLANDS 49 CHAPTER VII. THE BRAEMAR GATHERING . . . . . . .57 CHAPTER VIII. DEER-STALKING 64 CHAPTER IX. SALMON-FISHING 68 CHAPTER X. HINTS ANENT HIRING MOORS 71 CHAPTER XI. AN IMPERIAL HUNTRESS 76 CHAPTER XII. A ROYAL STAG-HUNT . .88 CHAPTER XIII. HOUNDS AND HORSES 98 CHAPTER XIV. SIR ROBERT HARVEY'S HARRIERS 109 CHAPTER XV. THE ROYAL BUCKHOUNDS . 115 CHAPTER XVI. A DAY'S COURSING 123 M310Q59 6 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVII. PAGE HUNTING IN A HUKRICANE 130 CHAPTER XVIII. MELTON MOWBRAY 139 CHAPTER XIX. HUNTING AT BRIGHTON 152 CHAPTER XX. CUB-HUNTING 159 CHAPTER XXI. THE HUNTING SEASON 168 CHAPTER XXII. STAGE-COACHES OF THE PERIOD . ... . . . 180 CHAPTER XXIII. BY ROAD TO BRIGHTON 191 CHAPTER XXIV. AN AUTUMN TOUR THROUGH NORTH DEVON AND SOMERSET . 197 CHAPTER XXV. A WINTER FAIR AT BOULOGNE 203 CHAPTER XXVI. PICCADILLY 211 CHAPTER XXVII. THE PARK 219 CHAPTER XXVIII. DOWN IN DENSHIRE 225 CHAPTER XXIX. LINES SUGGESTED BY A VISIT TO " JACK BABBAGE " AND HIS "AULD WIFE" JEAN 227 CHAPTER XXX. THE OLD SPORTSMAN'S LAMENT 229 CHAPTER XXXI. THE HIGHLANDS . 231 CHAPTER XXXII. DRIVING RED-DEER 234 CHAPTER XXXIII. HUNTING IN ESSEX 241 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. INTRODUCTION. The precious juice the Minstrel quaffed, And he, emboldened by the draught, Looked gaily back on them and laughed. The cordial nectar of the bowl Swelled his old veins and cheered his soul ; A lighter, livelier, prelude ran Ere thus his tale again began. — Scott. THE approbation with which " Tallyho " and " Hark- away" were received by the public has induced me to reprint the articles which appeared in The Daily Telegraph, detailing particulars of the fine sport I enjoyed upon the Grampian Hills during the past season, whilst shooting grouse on the rugged moor- land, and ptarmigan on the steep and stony heights of Rhidorach. Whilst attempting at the same time to give a description of the grand scenery of this part of the Highlands of Scotland, a task of no ordinary difficulty, as from the " sma hulls' and muckle hulls " which vary in height up to 3700 feet, a vast panorama can be surveyed of hill and dale and wide expanse 8 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. of moorland, where, to quote one of Scott's vivid descriptions of wild scenery : There's nothing left to fancy's guess, You see that all is loneliness ; And silence aids — though those steep hills Send to the lake a thousand rills ; In summer time so soft they weep, The sound but lulls the ear asleep. It is not only sportsmen who are devoted to shoot- ing that I seek to interest, but those disciples of Isaac "Walton as well who delight to follow the more gentle art, by telling of swiftly-flowing streams, pellucid lochs, and countless brawling burns, the homes of the salmon and the trout. As many of my readers, in addition to indulging in the pleasant pastimes of shooting and fishing, may take a delight in all matters appertaining to the chase, I have, following the course successfully adopted in my former publications, " Tally ho " and " Harkaway/* given some sketches of hunting in the shires ; telling of the doings of an Imperial huntress when in pursuit of the fox ; particulars of a royal stag-hunt over the moors in Devon and Somerset; driving red-deer in Thorndon Park, with some remarks on coaching, etc., with the view of upholding the manliest and most popular of our national sports at a time when they are not unfrequently attacked by a small and effeminate minority who are ever ready To compound for sins they are inclined to By damning those they have no mind to. CHAPTER I. IN pursuance of a long- existing promise that I would spend a few weeks in the Highlands, for the purpose of catching trout and salmon, shooting grouse,, and stalking deer, I found myself, an evening or two since, on the platform of the North-Western Railway at Euston, with the intention of " Going North," in order to fulfil that agreeable engagement. A glance sufficed to show that I was not the only person on like pleasures bent, the platform being covered with baggage of every sort and kind, and a monster train of magnificent carriages, all labelled " Perth/' drawn up, which was being rapidly though quietly loaded, the order and regularity with which the vast business at this great terminus is transacted being remarkable. Inquiring for my friends, I was shown into a new saloon carriage of improved make, the centre compart- ment being arranged as a sitting-room, whilst at either end were compartments, the one for the ladies, and the other for the gentlemen of the party, fitted up with comfortable beds, tastily decorated, and beauti- fully clean, which proved, when the hour for seeking repose at high speed arrived, eminently comfortable 10 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. and conducive to rest. Lavatories of the most complete form and convenient arrangement were provided; and, in fact, this suite of rooms, which were reserved for the sole use of our party of six, comprised an amount of luxury and comfort that exhibited an entirely new feature in railway travelling, even to one not un- accustomed to locomotion on the rail. By degrees the carriages were filled up until every space was occupied in the five double saloons and nineteen first- class carriages ; then the clock struck eight, and this enormous train, with a freight of 420 passengers, steamed quietly out of the station, and was soon " Going North " at express speed. It was evident that my companions were not novices in travelling ; for, by a clever arrangement of some of the larger pieces of baggage, a substantial table was formed, and dinner laid for six, with little loss of time. This arrangement combined all the pleasures of a picnic with an absence of those discomforts that are usually attendant on al-fresco entertainments in this variable clime. The cold chickens, currie, fruits, and champagne partaken of whilst travelling at a speed of sixty or seventy miles an hour were even more enjoyable than similar viands consumed on the damp grass of some picturesque and romantic spot under a widely-spreading umbrella, even if the object of your affections shared the shelter of your gingham, clinging tenderly to you for protection from the inevitable thunderstorm that invariably breaks over such outdoor entertainments; for I have known even some of the fairest and most delightful of the opposite sex to become a trifle touchy under such trying circumstances. Whilst we were dining thus luxuriously the train "GOING NORTH." 11 was pursuing its fleet career past Harrow, through Watford, Bletchley, halting at Rugby for a while. Then away at full speed, whilst the steadiness of the carriages, even when whirling along at this rate, was the subject of discussion as being something remark- able, reflecting the highest credit on those charged with the maintenance of the road, and the construction of these ponderous vehicles, which surpass in comfort and convenience all others which I have ever met with. Having finished our cigars, and being assured that it was customary when " Going North " just to take a wee drop of whisky before going to bed, I fell in with this arrangement not unwillingly, and was soon between the snow-white sheets, dreaming' that some one had sent for me in a hurry, and that I was travelling in the cabin of a first-class steamer, which, by some clever feat in engineering, had been adapted to cross the line or go on the railway track with equal facility. Occasionally a halt was made, and murmurs of "Wigan," « Carlisle/' " Carstairs," broke on my drowsy and inattentive ear. I did not care; such places had no attraction for me. I was going farther North, and would wait until the welcome sound of Perth Station aroused me. Owing to the heavy load, this train was an hour late, performing the journey, which is over 400 miles, in thirteen hours on this occasion, instead of twelve, the usual time. Perth Station was a busy scene indeed. Mountains of luggage ; numbers of pointers, setters, clumbers, and those on sporting amusements bent, clad in knickerbockers and tweed suits more or less conspicuous according to the taste of the wearer. All was business ; no bustle ; careful, steady porters took 12 ON THE GRAMPIAN HIILS. charge of your luggage; courteous officials directed you to your carriage and supplied any required infor- mation, in such a fashion as could be followed by certain other railway companies with very great advantage to their passengers. We were bound for Blairgowrie, and had to transfer ourselves and an unknown quantity of baggage, guns, and ammunition to another train, and were soon on the way to our destination. A short run landed us at Blairgowrie, where an open carriage with four post-horses, ridden by smart, clever postilions in scarlet jackets, was in waiting, and we drove to the Queen's Hotel, where luncheon was provided. After a short halt we started for the Spital of Glen Shee, where amidst the Grampian Hills we were to follow our various sports. A heavy rain somewhat disconcerted us, but with such, to a sportsman, glorious ends in view what mattered a persistent downpour ? The harder it rained, the sooner, we said, it would be over, and by the time we had traversed half the distance, the weather cleared, and we were able to admire the grand scenery of this wild portion of the Highlands of Scotland. Varied with wood and water, heather-clad hills, green meadows flushed with flowers of many hues, such as " the blue bells of Scotland," the wild ascabius, ox daisies, wild tares, interspersed with green broom, and here and there on barren spots tufts of heather just coming into bloom, crossing streams highly suggestive of large trout, we journeyed con- tentedly on, until the place was reached which was to be our headquarters for the season. A bright fire was burning, and we welcomed the warmth it afforded to us — the afternoon being both damp and cold. Our "GOING NORTH." 13 first business was to hear the report of the head- keeper, who informed us that grouse were plentiful, but strong on the wing and a trifle wild, but that in his opinion the good shots of the party might depend upon getting a bag of forty to fifty brace to each gun. "Nous verrons," I mentally remarked; "I don't think I shall be in it if that is the number expected to qualify one to rank as ' a good shot ; ' : but tc nous verrons" and I looked entirely satisfied with the report, not leading that stalwart keeper to imagine for a moment that I had any doubts on the subject. Next we inspected the kennel. The setters and pointers were all pronounced to be in high form. Then dinner was announced, and the loch trout that were served at once awoke a passionate desire in my breast to be amongst them. What matters it that the loch with an unspellable name, which I won't venture upon giving on so short an acquaintance, is seven miles distant ? What are seven miles to an ardent disciple of Izaac Walton ? — a mere nothing. What matters it that the hills are steep and the miles long ? — Scotch miles are long, I am told. Of no consequence, I assure you, when such trout are to be caught. It is possible I may change my views on this head after I have tried, being somewhat like that " minstrel" we read of who found that the way was long and the wind was cold, he having become infirm and old; but I consoled myself by again observing, t( Nous verrons" As I sit writing this a bright gleam of sunshine lights up the steep hillside, dotted all over with snow-white sheep, the clouds are rolling away, and a feeling of 14 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. contentment passes through my mind, for there is promise of fair weather for the morrow, and to-morrow is the 12th of August, and we are to be up and on the Grampian Hills at 7 A.M. CHAPTER II. ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. AFTER post-time on Thursday morning last, our small party of two guns strolled along the bank of the Eiver Shee, on the chance of finding snipe and wild ducks, affording an opportunity, if we were fortunate enough to meet with any, of trying our guns, so that every- thing might be in order for a grand day's sport on the morrow. Arriving at a likely spot, the spaniel was not long in finding game. A wild duck being driven out of some sedgy grass, was instantly dropped by my skilful companion ; and several snipe were found, but were too wide awake to let us get near them, and they sought safety in rapid flight. The banks of the Shee and the adjacent fields were literally carpeted with wild flowers of the brightest and most beautiful hues. Wild roses, bluebells, meadow-sweet, ragged robin, ox daisies (Marguerites), wild pansies, and other modest blooms offered facilities for making bouquets that could not be surpassed by the choicest flowers that all the skilled hands of the vendors in Coven t- Garden could offer. Then, crossing a rickety bridge, we passed over the road and wandered along the hill- side. Soon a hare and rabbit were added to the list 16 ON TEE GRAMPIAN HILLS. of the slain ; tlien rose up a fine covey of strong grouse, which reluctantly we allowed to wing their way un- molested, for a time at any rate. Then we put up a large covey of partridges, and another snipe or two, and were satisfied that there was no lack of game on the estate of Rhidorach. After luncheon we drove along Glen Beg, which leads to Braemar and Bal- moral, through the grandest scenery, the grim, rugged Grampian Hills towering gloomily over us ; and the jingling of the bells on our high- courage d nag sounded cheerily as we wended our way to the keeper's house to make arrangements for the ensuing day. I was much struck with the beautiful reflection of the rainbows on the hillsides, several arcs of vivid brightness being visible on this occasion. To me it was a novel sight, though, from the frequent occur- rence, the inhabitants of the glen were so accustomed to the sight that they paid little attention to this atmospherical display. Glen Beg is not always seen under such delightful auspices, as Alexander Robertson — the keeper — informed me that for fifteen weeks of the past winter the glen was impassable owing to the heavy fall and drifting of the snow ; and he and the family, consisting of his wife and nine children, were cut off entirely from all communication with the outer world for this long period. When asked how he got on for food, he said he had laid up a large stock of oat- meal and dried fish, so that their wants were satisfied, having enough and to spare for some of his less fortunate neighbours. I should imagine they must have felt a trifle dull during that long and dreary winter time. All our arrangements being carefully made, we trotted back at a rattling rate to the Manse, ON TEE GRAMPIAN HILLS. 17 to sleep — perchance to dream of a wondrous bag on the following day. The morning of the 12th dawned brightly, giving promise of fine weather, though a strong nor'-wester was blowing, which would be against the shooter, if it continued. Soon after six o'clock I was aroused by my cheerful host, and told that breakfast was ready, and that we were to start soon after seven. Thus far the programme was carried out to the letter, for we drove rapidly along the glen and reached our destination at eight o'clock, finding the keepers in readiness with the dogs, and a horse with panniers to carry our ammunition and luncheon, both being provided on a liberal scale, though not too liberal . as regards cartridges, as was subsequently proved. Our party divided, each having a separate beat ; whilst it was settled that I should accompany my host, a fine sportsman, a hale, hearty, muscular man, in the prime of life. When the spot was pointed out on which we were to commence work I of course expressed my strong satisfaction ; but a chill feeling came over me as I thought what a horrible failure my performance would be. That " rare place for grouse " up that rugged hill would, no doubt when reached, be all the keepers described it, but how was I to accomplish the feat ? I am not in the prime of life — in fact, a good deal the other side. I grumble at having to mount the stairs in a tall house, and here I was to commence climbing one of the Grampian Hills in order to begin the day's work ! I felt very much in the frame of mind that Mr. Winkle experienced when 18 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. he was invited to try his hand at rook-shooting. I assumed the airs of a thoroughly competent work- man— one who was accustomed to climb the steepest acclivities daily, as a matter of amusement — wishing all the time that I had candidly owned that I was unfit to play the part of a mountaineer even for one day only. "Now then," said my companion, "let us be off ; " and off we accordingly went, across the babbling burn which flows through the glen; and then my troubles commenced. Long before I had accomplished the half of my task I felt dead beat, I had hardly any breath left, and I thought it was all up with my day's shooting, so long and anxiously looked for. I said little — in fact I couldn't, I had no breath to give words to my feelings; and I silently resumed my toil, fortunately as it proved, for after a little while I found breath, the hill seemed less steep the higher I climbed, and when I reached the summit all signs of feebleness had passed away, my fear of turning out a fraud vanished, a sensation of complacency passed through me, and by a judicious concealment of my fears I had not damaged my reputation as a hardy, indomitable hill-climber. Now, a black-and-tan Gordon setter steadily draws the patches of heather — in a few minutes he stands steady, then creeps on for a few paces, stands again, and up rises our first covey. Down drops this well- trained dog ; bang ! bang ! go the guns ; and our first brace is killed. Then on we go. In a second or two the setter has found more game, and another brace is bagged ; and so we go on until ten o'clock, at which hour we had scored twenty-five brace. All ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. 19 sense of fatigue had by this time vanished, and I continued to walk through the heather, over the rugged stones, up hill, down hill, across the burns, and through spongy peat soil, resting at luncheon- time, and occasionally taking a seat on a boulder- stone, feeling as the day advanced that I was fresher than ever, and so continued until nearly eight o'clock, when a heavy shower came on, and we ceased shooting. So much for the fresh air of the Grampian Hills, which must be the sole cause of such a revival of strength ; and strange to relate that, after walking, or, at any rate, being on my feet, for nearly twelve hours, I was as fresh as a four-year-old and "as fit as a fiddle/' As we mounted the heights we felt the full force of the wind, which was blowing half a gale ; and as the grouse rose the strong breeze accelerated their pace, causing them to twist like snipe, which ren- dered it all the more difficult to bring them down. Still, on we went, every few minutes adding to our score, until the appointed place for luncheon was reached, by which time the bag was fifty brace. By the side of a small but swiftly-flowing burn we rested and refreshed. Never did cold beef taste so tooth- some; never was there such a dish provided for hungry sportsmen as that ingeniously-designed and skilfully-executed compound of delicacies, worthy of Meg Merrilies, amongst which I traced the flavour of the timid hare, the wide-awake wild duck, the familiar rabbit, and the unappreciated moorhen, if I mistake not ; whilst, tranquilly reposing in the cool waters of this humble stream, were several bottles, originally hailing from Rheims or Epernay. Just a wee drap of whuskey was handed to each of us, B 2 20 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. keepers, gillies, and a', and we were off again to in- crease our store. Nothing could exceed the beauty of the scenery. Meandering through the vale was seen the rippling stream, fed by many small acces- sories trickling from the mossy sides of the adjoining hills ; whilst the alteration in the lights and shades of these historic hills was something wonderful to note, varying, as they did, with the alternations of sunshine^ gloomy clouds, and passing showers, which followed in rapid succession. Still, we were adding to our bag, notwithstanding the strong wind, my companion hitting eight out of every ten shots, the dogs working superbly, Kobertson showing the utmost skill in their manage- ment and wonderful judgment in selecting the best places to find game, all of which would have been of little avail had not the shooter been well up to the work, for the ground is severe, and requires to be thoroughly well worked. I have been accustomed all my life to participate, whenever I had a chance, in shooting game of all descriptions — the quail in the sugar plantations, the snipe, teal, widgeon, wild ducks in the low grounds, and the "bald pate" and the ground pigeon of the West Indies. I have seen battues of pheasants, drives of partridges, and all the various modes of capturing game, but I never saw sport equalling that of this day — at any rate, to my taste, for I love to witness the working of well-trained dogs, to see a long shot bring down a strong bird ; and I care little for an enormous bag, though I like a good score which is won by hard •work such as I joined in on this occasion, the grand total of two guns amounting to no less than a hundred and sixty-four head of grouse and one hare. ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. 21 A rapid act of coachmanship resulted in a safe ^arrival at the Manse, where in due course we sat down to dinner, which proved not by any means the most unpleasant hour of the day. Proudly did our Piper* habited in full costume, not a riband, a feather, or any other of the gear of a true Highlander wanting, pour forth exciting war strains and Scottish tunes until one desired to fight somebody or something for the sake of Bonnie Scotland; no wonder that there are so many feats recorded in the history of Scotland when we think of the influence these martial strains of wild music had over the various spirited clans who fought and bled for their country. Now that the undermining fear that I should break down whilst following these manly pursuits is dissi- pated, I contemplate with the utmost serenity the plans and prospects of the future. The ptarmigan are to be shot, and in order to find them the topmost ridges of these tall hills have to be surmounted ; there, amidst the gray stones only, are they to be found; and if the day is warm and bright they may be readily approached. Time was — only a very few hours ago, in fact — when the idea of climbing those particular hills, pointed out as the home of the ptarmigan, would have caused me a twinge of intense regret when I contemplated the reality of the impending ascent and my inability to go up steep places. Now, as I con- template my knickerbockers, the well-knit hose, and comfortable boots, I feel that I am to the manner born a Scotchman, and my mission, though hitherto unfulfilled, is to climb steep mountainsides in the pursuit of game. Then looming in the immediate distance is a first-class day in another glen, fixed for 22 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. Monday, where equally good sport with, that on the 12th is expected; after which a day on Loch Na-Nean, which is situated at the head of Grlentaitneach (or the pleasant glen), produces visions of delightful sport, the trout being abundant and fine. This loch, if I remember rightly, is the highest in altitude of all the Scotch lochs, and is distant from Glen Shee only some six or seven miles, a mere trifle for an athlete, con- sequently there will be no difficulty at all in traversing that distance. Then, a little later, there is a deer-stalking to be enjoyed. A night in a hut in the forest, the early rising and pursuit of a " stag of ten," are things to be looked forward to ; as also is the gathering and sports of the Highland Society, which takes place early in September. Trout fishing in the many modest little burns will not be neglected, for these fish, though small, are exceedingly sweet. Probatum est, for we had a dish for breakfast, provided by our esteemed and hospitable hostess, who with rod and line skilfully drew them out of a rippling rill in the vicinity of the Manse. In considering the grand day's sport on the 12th, when the wind was blowing boisterously, I am greatly inclined to think that the many long shots which proved effectual were consequent upon the use of Schultze's cartridges, the powder burning freely^ with a minimum of smoke, and evidently possessing great strength. This day (Saturday) was chosen as an easy walk over an indifferent line of country, the result of a short day's work being only twenty brace. CHAPTER III. CLIMBING THE CAIRNWALL. FAMILIAK to those who have travelled from Blairgowrie to Braemar is the Cairnwall, one of the steepest and grandest of the Grampian Hills, exceeding 3000 feet in altitude, and standing boldly out amidst its com- panion heights in the lovely valley of Glen Beg. Around this noble hill, or, as it might more appro- priately be styled, mountain, was the ground to which we journeyed at an early hour of the morning to shoot grouse, whilst enjoying the lovely scenery around us. Our party divided, one going with Ramsay, the second keeper, who had charge of the dogs ; whilst I accom- panied my friend, with Robertson, the head-keeper, and the other dogs, first having arranged a trysting- place where we were to meet at luncheon-time. Scarcely had five minutes elapsed ere we commenced a day's sport which I have never seen equalled. Good .as our first day proved, our bag on this occasion greatly exceeded it. When my companions first rented this moor, grouse were not plentiful ; but with good management, a first-rate keeper, and fair shooting, the stock has greatly increased. The advantage to the proprietors of moors of having thorough sportsmen 24 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. as tenants is obvious ; whereas those who take the shootings simply for the slaughter of game, whose sole object is to be able to say that they have killed so many brace during the season, are in the end unprofitable customers. By killing the old birds the true sportsman ensures a better stock, whilst the pot- hunter who goes in for mere numbers does not kill the old cocks, except by chance, and slaughters the " cheepers/' or young birds, remorselessly. It would be useless for any other than a stout- framed muscular man, with a strong heart, to expect to shoot over such a moor as Rhidorach successfully. In order to get at his birds he must fearlessly climb the rugged mountainside, must not flinch from walking over the rolling stones hidden by the dense heather, or crossing the spongy morass, where, if he is not careful in avoiding the light green spots, he will probably find himself up to the hips in this treacherous ground, cooling his heels unwittingly in the hidden spring which trickles down the hillside, and swells the rushing stream of the burn that meanders through the beautiful valley. There can be no greater treat to a sportsman than to have the opportunity of witnessing the skilful working of dogs by a clever hand. For Highland shooting nothing can compare with the black- and-tan Gordon setters, for they are hardy, capable of standing any amount of work, and equal to living through the cruel cold winters of this latitude better than any other class of dogs. The marvellous sagacity of these highly-trained animals is seen when Flora and Rap, two of this breed, are observed at work. At the wave of the keeper's hand, each dog instantly leaves his heels and CLIMBING THE CAIRNWALL. 25 quarters the ground backwards and forwards in search of the game \ mind, with the wind full in their faces. Suddenly, as if by magic, Flora comes to a dead stand ; this is the exact moment which unnerves the excitable or unpractised sportsman, for he knows he is in the immediate presence of the birds he is so eagerly pursuing. Steady stands Flora, with tail feathering and body quivering, whilst her bright intelligent eye is anxiously bent on the shooter to see if he is at hand ready to bring down the doomed grouse when he rises from his heather bed. Steadily is she backed up by Eap ; then, whilst drawing closer and closer at a stealthy step, up rises the covey. Bang ! bang ! goes the breechloader ; down drop a brace of birds right and left, and the well-broken dogs have " down- charged/'' as if instinctively, remaining immovable until the shooter reloads his gun. After a momentary pause the keeper waves his hand, motioning them to seek for the dead game, the sportsman steadily looking out for the " lazy bird " which remains perdu in the heather, whilst its companions have whirled away, winging their flight to some other favourite haunt on the wild hillside. Then up rises that lazy bird, but only to meet his doom. The dead game being picked up, the dogs are again at work. On this occasion my friend and companion opened the ball by killing ten birds out of eleven shots, fired within ten minutes. Shooting with a breechloader, having a choke-bore second barrel, he was able to make longer killing shots than I have ever seen accomplished before ; and had it not been that he was thus provided and had an exceedingly straight eye, he would never have made such a bag, looking at the fact that owing to the cold, 26 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. wet, windy season, the birds were unusually wild. For hour after hour we traversed the rough heather ground, covey after covey being put up, never rising without finding their numbers diminished, the sport being in the highest degree exciting and enjoyable. Looking down from on high on to the road which leads to Braemar, and on either side to which lies our shooting, I see our fellow-sportsman descending the hill, and we speedily meet at the Queen's Well, where the luncheon is unpacked, the wine placed in the cool stream that issues from the cavity in the rock, and rest and refresh- ment are the order of the day. Here we meet with Major Frank Tower — a fine shot at a rocketer, going as straight at a bird as he does across country — with his nephew, Mr. Egerton Tower, of the 95th Regiment, who bids fair to equal his uncle ; both being guests of Mr. Christopher Tower, who rents the shooting adjoining Khidorach, as far as Braemar. Talking of the morning's sport, Major Tower said that " grouse- shooting is the poetry of sport, and that to see dogs work, as good dogs do, is worth any expenditure of time and trouble to witness." When such an authority expresses so distinct an opinion, I feel I have not overstated my case when speaking of the first-class sport. Renovated by rest and refreshment, I determined to quit the pleasant society of my friends for a while and to attempt the ascent of the Cairnwall. Having some knowledge of mountain-climbing, I steadily pursued my way, disturbing as I went covey after covey of grouse, the old cock-birds crying, as I thought, rather derisively, and in hoarse tones, "Caveck, Caveck, Caveck!" as they whirled away CLIMBING TEE CAIENWALL. 27 down the mountainside, and were speedily lost to view. Half the distance upwards being surmounted, I found myself amongst the gray old granite boulders amidst which the ptarmigan delight to dwell. Up rises a covey of six brace, wheeling about and dis- appearing round the hillside. Eesting for a minute or two I contemplated the summit which my ambition inclined me to surmount. This height, whilst appearing so near, yet proved to be far away, as I wended my steps upwards. The higher I rose the less trouble it was, and when I reached the summit, which, to be accurate in the highest degree, is a height of 3059 feet, I had not a symptom or feeling of fatigue. Sadly did I interfere with the quiet and comfort of the numerous coveys of ptarmigan who dwell amidst these granite stones, their plumage assimilating so closely to them that they are not discovered until they rise suddenly from their lurking-places and mount high in the air until lost to view in some more remote hiding-place. From the very topmost ridge of Cairnwall, I look down upon the winding road along which crawls the four-horse coach which plies between Blairgowrie and Braemar, toiling to reach the Devil's Elbow, as sharp a turning as ever a vehicle of that description was called upon to twist round. Right down the glen the road to the Spital of Glen Shee is visible, a winding stream running between the rugged hillsides, dotted with countless sheep and lambs, which are merely so many white specks when seen at this height. Looking around me, as far as the eye can reach I behold the vast range of the Grampian Hills. 28 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. Immediately opposite is the " Glas-Mille," a high, austere range of highland. Seen on a day such as that on which I viewed them — a day when sunshine and shade followed in rapid succession — I noted the various hues that the mountainsides assumed, dark brown now, light green next, sombre patches of blue- black, yellowish- green, and finally a " deeply, darkly, beautifully blue " tint were the prevailing colours that lighted up the landscape. Close at hand was the grim, gray, barren cairn, the Gaelic name of which I think I had better not attempt to give, but which being interpreted means the Aged Cairn — an expres- sion that graphically describes this fine hill. Far, far away I note amidst the cloud-clothed mountain-tops two or three patches of snow, distinctly visible even at the long distance. On one of the adjacent hills I observed two insignificant-looking lochs, which, however, have made their mark down the mountainside, wearing away the ground in their hasty passage towards the valley below, when swollen by the winter's snows and rapid thaws. Having, as I sat upon a heap of stones, at the highest point on which was a dilapidated pole, which evidently at some time or other had been used as a flag-staff, deliberately surveyed the glorious prospect around me, I prepared to descend the steep side of Cairnwall, in order to join my companion. " Facilis descensus averni," I think, was an observation made by some classic authority in one of the books which I was compelled unwillingly to study in the very far-off days of my youth. Doubtless that extremely down- ward journey to that place was easy enough, but my passage from the region above to the moorland below CLIMBING THE CAIENWALL. 29- was not so light a task — the rough stones, the slippery moss, the frequent holes, rendering the descent far more difficult than the ascent ; but by patient per- sistence, in a briefer space of time than I thought it would have taken me, I was at the base of the hill, which only two or three days back I looked upon as a height I could never expect to attain. A wave of the hand from my jovial companion, who had just knocked down another brace, brought me to his side, and, leading me to a tranquil spot, bidding me rest on a moss-covered stone, he bade- the attendant gillie bring forth from the rippling rill a bottle of the driest of dry champagne. "Best, weary pilgrim, rest," said this friend in need, " and when we have drained the goblet to the dregs, we will be off and at them again." Accordingly we were off and at them again, with such success, as we toiled up the hills, through the heather, and over a specially rugged plateau of land — said to be the most favourite resort of the grouse — that it was necessary to despatch a horse with panniers to collect the heaps of birds deposited on the cairns or conspicuous stones on the ' ' beats " we followed. It was not until the shades of evening closed around us that we ceased our sport, my com- panion having scored off his own gun no less a number than seventy-seven and a-half brace of grouse. This number was very largely augmented by our friend, who had worked the steepest corrie during this long day, and contributed not only grouse, but ptarmigan and hares as well. It is to me a surprising fact, after so long a walk and so steep a climb, that I felt no symptom of fatigue, and could have extended my walk if called upon to trudge home to the Manse, 30 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. though not objecting, nevertheless, to mount the dog- cart, the jingling of the bells on the beautiful chestnut mare which conveyed us home sounding merrily as we rattled gaily along Glen Beg. The weather, which had favoured us at first, now became variable, damaging the sport, for the grouse- become wild and shy, and cock their heads up from the wet heather, and so are aware of the approach of their enemies. One day I started with Eamsay in full costume, with his pipes, to Kirkmichael, to witness the sports at the Strathardle Highland Gathering, held in the grounds of Dalnagar, Mr. James Small, of Dirnaneen, being the chieftain of the gathering. A large number were assembled, lining the side of the hill, which formed a natural amphitheatre, and most of the gentry resident in the neighbourhood, who desired to witness the favourite sports of tossing the caber, putting the heavy ball, throwing the hammer, reel- dancing, playing reels and strathspeys, etc. The weather somewhat spoiled the day's amusement, a miserable drizzle driving the ladies into the tent. Some of the Highlanders were marvellously fine specimens of athletes, displaying considerable grace in the dance and fleetness in the race. Another day we drove to the Devil's Elbow, and on the steep hills which surround that picturesque spot we were to shoot grouse and ptarmigan. Killing my first shot, I started with good will to climb the tremendously tall hill before me. Steeper than ever was this climb, and I gladly availed myself of the offer of a considerate gillie to mount the sturdy horse that carried the panniers. How I was to accomplish this feat I was entirely ignorant. To mount a nag without CLIMBING THE CAIRNWALL. 31 stirrups or leathers on a steep hillside is certainly not easy of accomplishment, especially if the rider has passed the middle age and has a tendency to corpulence. "I'll just give you a leg up," said the gillie; and in a minute I found myself lying flat on the panniers, unable to get my legs over them, being seized with a fit of uncontrollable laughter at the absurdity of the position. At last this act of horsemanship was satis- factorily executed, and, laying hold of the horse's mane, I held on as he climbed slowly up the steep ascent. The weather continued stormy, and the total for the two guns was only twenty- one brace of grouse, one brace of ptarmigan, and two hares. The range of hills known as the Glasmiele, or " Stony Hill," is one of the highest points, and is exceedingly wild and grand, as, in fact, all the Grampians are. Eeturning to the keeper's lodge, we found strong tea, and an abundance of oatmeal cakes and scones, which, taken with delicious butter, formed a very acceptable meal on a wet, cold afternoon, especially after such a ride. Looking up to the top of a tall ridge, I saw an eagle hovering in the clouds, apparently ready to pounce down on some unfortunate animal. This bird would, the keeper informed me, probably measure seven feet six inches from tip to tip of its wings. Perhaps on some future occasion I may have a closer inspection of this now comparatively rare bird. On Saturday we started for Ben Gouliping — I will not guarantee the spelling — but being interpreted it means "a hill behind a hill," and a remarkable tall climb it is to commence a day's sport with, and I think should be called Big Ben, for it is a teaser to mount to the summit. At length the spot is reached where 32 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. business is to commence, and soon the grouse were falling to the shots of my skilful companions. The weather, however, turned exceedingly wet, spoiling the sport, and driving us home to shelter, the bag being only some twenty brace, and one brace ptarmigan. Not daunted by the heavy rain I persisted in climbing to the " Home of the Ptarmigan," and was rewarded by seeing some twenty brace on the wing, but only in the distance. Let us have a bright hot day, when they will lie close amidst the weather-beaten gray boulders, whose age it would be difficult to determine, then the keeper promises me that I shall kill some. Time will show, but as I killed two out of my three first shots, it is probable I may. To an elderly gentleman who has toiled up a steep hill, and then finds that the dogs are pointing in a still steeper place, and is called upon to mount quickly, though utterly out of breath, to that particular spot, it is rather a trial ; but it has to be done, if you are to kill grouse on a Highland moor such as Ehidorach. CHAPTER IV. LOCH NA-NEAN. THE wet weather necessitates a rest from the hard work which has been performed by the shooters on Rhidorach ; affording an opportunity of making note of the wonderful sport that has been enjoyed and the varied pleasures experienced during a visit to the Highlands. The grandeur of the scenery when the sportsman is roving over the Grampians adds greatly to the pleasure of the sport ; and he would be a soul- less individual indeed who could, however intent on his sport, overlook and not feel excited by the glorious views that meet his eye as he mounts hill after hill in pursuit of the game. For my part, I cannot under- stand why so many people who talk glibly of the beauties of foreign lands have never visited Scotland. Bach day during my stay has furnished some fresh delight ; the wonderful change from the air of London to the invigorating breezes on the Grampian Hills enabling one to walk without fatigue, hour after hour, to places inaccessible to any other than pedestrians. A day or two since the morning broke bright and clear, giving promise of a fine day, and it was decided that I should accompany my hostess in a climb, in o 34 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. order to have a look at Loch Na-Nean, described as " a very beautiful loch, situated at the head of Glentait- neach (or the Pleasant Glen). It is seven miles above the Spital of Glen Shee, is about a mile long by three- quarters of a mile broad, and is well stocked with splendid trout, said to be as fine as in any loch or river in Scotland, and weighing on an average three- quarters of a pound/' To the other recommendations of Loch Na-Nean may be added the fact that it is the highest loch in Scotland, and that by the devious courses that have to be followed, the distance to the summit is increased to nine miles at least. Surely such a description as this was sufficient to create an ardent desire to prove the truth of the statement. At 9.30 A.M. we started, accompanied by George, the groom, a very smart active young fellow, charged with the care of our rods, lines, and also the very necessary luncheon-basket. My companion who was to take this long walk up so steep an incline was fitly habited for the work, wearing a light overcoat and strong but not too heavy yet well-nailed boots, the frequent heavy storms that occur in the Highland glens and mountain passes necessitating some such array as a protection against the sudden soaking showers that assail you, not without making their mark, and leaving you wet to the skin in a few minutes. I commend the over- coat of fine cloth to ladies intending to climb mountains or wander amongst these wild and rugged hillsides and romantic glens, suggesting that the dresses should be short, not reaching below the top of the boot in any case. Without the nailed boots the fair pedestrian would be, so to speak, nowhere — certainly not at the top of a Grampian Hill, amidst the gray stones in which LOCH NA-NEAN. 35 dwell the ptarmigan. Add to these indispensable articles a stout walking-stick, and then, if the lady is young and active and accustomed to take regular exercise, she may venture on a tall climb. Failing these requisites, I should not recommend a trial, as in all probability it would result in a failure, and prove a mortification instead of a delight. Away we went in the direction of the Pleasant Glen, and very pleasant we found it, though a trifle long, appearing, as mile after mile was trudged, as far from coming to an end as the life of a well-endowed annuitant, which anyone who has had the fortune to have the reversion knows, to his cost, to be greatly protracted. Contemplating in the distance the base of the high hill, to reach which I should have to walk at least eight miles, before climbing the last and steepest point — another mile or more — grave doubts passed through my mind as to the possibility of accomplishing the heavy task before me. I know that many great things have been accomplished by untiring patience, but in a matter of this sort — climb- ing a steep place — patience might be beaten on the post by a badly-fitting pair of boots, a faint heart, or a weak pair of legs. On we went through a group of stunted weather-beaten birch-trees, over some fairly even turf, following the course of the swiftly -flowing stream which owes its origin to the overflow of Loch Na-Nean. Then we enter the Glen. The travelling now becomes more difficult. The ground is full of springs, and is of the order of the sponge spongy ; the rough grass impedes you; small watercourses have to be crossed, tributary burns to be got over by aid of o 2 36 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. stepping-stones, on which, if tired, it is not always easy to preserve a balance, though the result of a slip is merely wet feet — unless you happen to fall prone into the rippling stream by-the-bye. All this while we are gradually ascending towards the summit of our desires : now magnificent weird mountains look down upon us on either side ; there is a beautiful waterfall, contributing to the ever-babbling stream ; the music of the water, the bleating of the sheep, and the barking of the collies being the only sounds that we hear. Then my companion calls attention to a golden eagle high soaring in the air, casting anything but a " sheep's-eye" on the lambs below, doubtless selecting one particular victim to swoop down upon and bear away to his home on the top of yon stony, steep, and hoary hill. At that moment up rises the ever-watchful shepherd, and the wary eagle mounts higher and higher, and sails majestically over a neighbouring mountain, and is lost to sight. I am glad to hear that Colonel Farquharson of Invercauld, the laird of this wild domain, instructs his keepers on no account to shoot these grand birds, already far too rare. By midday we had traversed a considerable portion of the glen, and thought, ere beginning to climb the rugged, steep ascent, that it would be as well to take luncheon, in order to fortify ourselves for the labour before us. Kesting for half an hour, we refreshed ourselves with the water of the stream by the side of which we reclined (in my case qualifying the water with just a dash of whisky). Then began the real hard work of the day : keeping along the course of the stream, crossing ever and LOCH NA-NEAN. 37 again over the stepping-stones in order to avail ourselves of the slightest advantage of a level spot that presented itself ; then along a narrow sheep- track, the water all the while noisily leaping from ledge to ledge, in haste to join a stream springing from a hill in Glentaitneach, and another from Glen Beg, which, when united, form the Shee. This meeting of the waters is the meaning of the Gaelic word " spital." Still higher and higher as we ascend, steeper and steeper it becomes. I fancy we must have nearly reached the summit, but a ridge only has been sur- mounted. There, far away, is the end of our climb, and many a difficult and slippery path will have to be followed ere we reach the loch. It was toil, but pleasant toil, and by slow degrees we were accom- plishing our work, my companion climbing bravely, undaunted by difficulties and regardless of danger, as she crossed and recrossed the stream by means of the slippery boulders which formed the stepping-stones, without a slip or false step. The end is at last in view, near at hand, but difficult to climb, being the steepest bit of the whole. But in a quarter of an hour we had gained the top, and were gazing on Loch Na-Nean in all its beauty on this bright clear pleasant day ; then, throwing myself down upon the heather, I exclaimed, somewhat after that Peri who is described by the poet as having attained Paradise : " Joy, joy for ever ; the task is done. The mountain's climbed the loch is won/' After a few minutes' rest the gillie who was in attendance launched the boat, and we prepared to fish as we floated over the too tranquil waters of the loch 38 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. — a ripple being necessary for successful angling.. However, a brief space only elapsed ere my fair companion hooked a fish, and by the aid of her landing-net secured one of nearly a pound weight, the most beautiful specimen of the pink trout I have ever seen, spotted all over, and when just out of the water showing the most brilliant colours of divers hues. Our attention then is attracted to a double shot,, which echoed over the hills, and we see our friend at the top of one of the steep eminences which surround us. He is well among the ptarmigan, and we note that the covey escapes, but in diminished numbers,, for a brace has fallen to his well-directed shot. The difficulty of shooting over such a beat as my friends had chosen, covering as it did the hillsides of Glen- taitneach and the hills above the loch, must be seen to be appreciated. Even after the performances I have witnessed, I was astonished to see the work they performed, bagging over forty brace even on such trying ground. Still we continued to float tranquilly on the bosom of this exalted loch, catching more of the finny tribe, and rendering the weight of our basket heavier for the downward than it was for the upward journey. Grand in the extreme is the view from Loch Na- Nean, as you look upon the Grampian Hills and the extensive deer forests of Attonaur, the property of the Earl of Fife, on the one hand ; and Fealar, belonging to the Duke of Athole, on the other. It is upon the two bright green islands in the middle of the loch that innumerable gulls resort to lay their eggs and rear their young. A transformation scene of an unusual LOCH NA-NEAN. 39 character is then to be noted, the ground being perfectly white with myriads of gulls, who on rising change the view to the natural vivid green which characterises these islands. At 5.30 we commenced our descent, which, though difficult, was more readily accomplished than our up- ward climb. Care, however, was necessary in getting down the first mile, every step having to be chosen with caution, as a trip would have brought one to grief, the grass being very slippery in places. By degrees we reached a less precipitous part of the descent, and our rate of progress increased. Then we were joined by our friend, whose gillie was well laden with ptarmigan, and together we marched along the seemingly never-ending glen. On we went, fol- lowing and crossing the swift-flowing stream with unflagging exertion, but still the end of the Pleasant Valley seemed as far off as ever. Presently we met a lady, one of our pleasant party, who could not be persuaded to join us in our climb ; for, being devoted to art, she would not lose the opportunity of putting the finishing-touches to a painting of one of the lovely views in the vicinity of the Manse. Still we trudged on as we had done for the last two hours and a half, until at length we reached the sheep- pen which we had observed on our upward journey. Then we crossed the bridge, and marched through the clump of stunted birches. " Now/' said our companion — he who, red-handed with the blood of ptarmigan, was for the time our guide — ' ( we have only three miles and a half to accomplish our journey." Well, what are three miles and a half when you have been on your legs all day? The sturdy pedestrian in the heyday of life 40 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. will answer, ' ' A mere nothing ; " but let him live to attain to the age I am unwillingly compelled to acknowledge, and he will find, if he reaches that late period of life, that the miles are fur-longer than were those of our youth. Patience, however, had borne me up the steep acclivity, and surely it would not fail me now; so, assuming a jaunty air, I affected a total unconcern as to the distance yet to be traversed ere the long day's work could be completed. Bravely my com- panion stepped out as we neared our haven of rest and repose ; then, ascending a slight rise that leads to the Manse, we entered gaily, showing but slight signs of fatigue ; and, as I looked upon my light-hearted and agreeable companion, I mentally repeated the words of Scott : A foot more light, a step more true, Ne'er from the heath-flower dashed the dew ; E'en the slight harebell lifts its head Elastic from her airy tread. CHAPTER V. AMONGST THE PTARMIGAN. THE bells on the chestnut rnare tinkle merrily as we journey at a rattling pace to Rhidorach, performing the distance of three miles in a very brief space of time. " The native hue of resolution " in my case is very far from being "sicklied o'er with the pale cast of thought " — very much the contrary, in fact. Far, far away, somewhere down in the Lowlands, I left dull care behind me ; and my thoughts are of the pleasantest description, as befits one who is in the enjoyment of all the luxuries and comforts of life. But, as regards resolution, mine is fixed ; I am determined to ascend the stony heights of the grim old mountains in the- hope of getting a few shots at the ptarmigan, though I am warned that after so much wind and rain they are certain to be very wild. However, if I merely have a glimpse of some of these beautiful birds I shall be quite satisfied and well rewarded for the trouble, or rather I should say the pleasure, of a climb amidst such grand and, to-day, glowing scenery; for the sun, by way of a change, is shining brightly over hill and dale, moorland and mountain. Alighting at the keeper's lodge, I laid hold of the double-barrelled^breechloader, 42 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. and filling my pockets with cartridges, started for Cairn Moor, in order to reach which it was necessary to climb a steep ascent of about a mile. My first business was to cross the burn, swollen with the heavy rain of the previous day ; but it was no easy matter to jump from stepping-stone to bo alder. I had no stick to aid me, and, weighted with cartridges and gun in hand, I found it a difficult matter to preserve an even balance. But all such obstacles were surmounted ; and on I toiled, catching hold of the heather to aid me in mounting the steep bit which I had first to encounter. When I had gained the height before me I sat down breathless, the perspiration dropping in large beads from my forehead. After a few minutes' rest and a long pull and a strong pull at the flask of " whuskey," I started again, gradually recovering from the state of breathlessness as I mounted higher and higher. Then, at my very feet, up rises ' ' a lazy bird/' which went on its way rejoicing, as I had not put cartridges in the breechloader ; for, until I got my second wind and was a little firmer on my legs, i thought it unadvisable to load, as walking with both barrels at full cock over the rugged moorland is not a particularly safe proceeding. By degrees the difficulty experienced at first vanished, and I gained the summit without fatigue, being rewarded with a magnificent view of the "sma' hulls and muckle hulls " around me. There were the solemn old mountains, the Glas Muol, the Cairnwall, the Aged Cairn (looking less grim than usual, for the sun shone brightly, bringing out the colour vividly) ; there a patch of purple heather, here a piece of bright green grass, and towering above all are the gray heads of these venerable hills; whilst through the correi or AMONGST THE PTAUHIGAN. 4S valley runs the brawling burn, sparkling in the sun- light as it leaps from ledge to ledge. Now a mountain hare steals slyly away, but quite out of reach. Then I traverse the bed of old gray boulders, amongst which the ptarmigan are found ; up rises a covey of six brace, mounting high in the air and wheeling away — never within shot. Then a second lot takes wing before I get within three hundred yards of them ; next comes another hare on foot which gives me a wide berth. At length I have a long shot at a single bird, which, how- ever, escapes scot free. All this was rather dis- heartening; but, at any rate, I was clearly amongst the ptarmigan. My companion, however, who was on a lower level, was more successful, bagging a brace in addition to a lot of grouse. One of the charms of this part of Scotland is the varied nature of the game you meet with. Looking at the place where the game hangs I noticed grouse, ptarmigan, snipe, wild duck, hare, rabbit, venison, and trout from the loch, with lesser ones from the burn ; golden plovers are also met with occasionally. Rabbits are very numerous in places, choosing positions, however, difficult for the sports- man to reach. The hares at present are " merry brown hares," but will soon be changing to their winter colour — white. By the time I reached the place agreed upon for that pleasant and much-needed re- fection, luncheon, the weather had become exceedingly cold, unusually so for the month of August. The ice had been as thick as a shilling in the early morn, and it seems that at some period of every month since October last there has been frost. The crops are quite green, and I should imagine that very little, if any, corn will be harvested in the Highlands this year. The 4* ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. sheep-farmers, however, seem to be doing well. One- holding an extensive run on Rhidorach has some six or seven thousand, and large numbers are found travelling to the different markets, blocking up the narrow Highland by roads so as to render it occasionally a work of time and patience to drive through the large flocks that go bleating along. Then is the time to note the marvellous sagacity of the shepherd's dog, and the- skilful way in which he disperses the sheep and after- wards collects them together when you have passed through. Mais, revenons d nos moutons, or rather to our particular cold mutton, which was the " diet " pro- vided for the occasion : this was quickly disposed of. I am now reminded of an anecdote I heard the other day a propos of meals. A Scotch gentleman found himself seated at dinner by the side of an extremely voluble young lady, whose flow of chatter wearied him so that he dryly remarked : " Hoot, lassie ; we're met for meat and no for clavers." Well, I think that gentleman was right ; there is a time for everything. Having met with so little success with the ptarmigan, by the advice of Ramsay, the keeper, I abandoned the intention of having another climb in pursuit of this very wild game, descending to a lower level and witnessing the admirable behaviour of Lome, who found and stood to the game with wonderful steadi- ness. Soon my companion floored a brace; one, a cunning old cock-bird, being merely winged, contrived to find refuge in a deep hole, which caused Ramsay much trouble before he drew him from his hiding- place. Then Lome finds again. This time he stands so steadily that we are certain birds are close to him ; but I was not prepared to see one right under his nose- AMONGST THE PTARMIGAN. 45 young bird, lying so close in the heather that it •could hardly be induced to rise. I saw on another occasion a young bird taken by the keeper by hand, and perfectly uninjured. It now became evident that the time for making big bags of grouse was over. The gusty weather and continued wet had caused them to pack. One lot, estimated at a hundred brace, and another of half the quantity, rose wildly on our appearance on a very rough piece of moorland, rising high in the air, going over the hills and far away in no time. Once these birds are gathered together in packs, you may depend upon having to work hard indeed to make a decent bag ; the total this day falling to two guns being only eighteen brace of grouse and two brace of ptarmigan. Another day, the birds being so extremely wild, we started for Rhidorach with the intention of having " a grouse drive/' This was accomplished by the aid of five gillies and myself, determined to try how I could perform as a beater. My friends having proceeded to the favourite correi, through which the grouse were to be driven, laid down in the heather, and concealed themselves as much as they could, while we stalked over the moor and hill-tops, starting the coveys which betook themselves to the pass where the shooters were in ambush. In my anxiety to accomplish my task in a satisfactory manner, I was afterwards told I took an unnecessary amount of trouble ; toiling along the side of a precipitous hill, over the treacherous boulders, passing whenever possible along the extremely narrow sheep-track ; ever and anon startling the grouse from their heather beds, and causing them to fly in the direction where the two shooters were ready to bring 46 OAT THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. down any that came within their reach. For nearly three hours I continued the promenade. The result of the drive was small, eight and a-half brace only being brought down ; but then it must be remembered that the grouse flew at a very great height and extreme pace, and that only those accustomed to bringing down rocketers had any chance at all. To me, save for the purpose of swelling the total of the slain, the sport was poor. I missed the treat of seeing the dogs work; and they missed the sport also, for when we passed the kennel and left them behind a continuous howl was raised on their finding they were not to accompany us. So clever are these well- trained dogs and so fond of the work, that they immediately burst into a wild and long-protracted chorus when they hear the jingling of the bells on that fleet steed that draws their masters to the keeper's lodge. The weather continued unsettled, and the birds were very wild. Soon after luncheon a Scotch mist enveloped the hill-tops, and a heavy rain fell in the correi, drenching me to the skin in a few minutes. One of the perils of the moors is this dense mist which suddenly spreads over them, and in which the sportsman may readily lose himself, and have to pass the night on the hills or in the correis, should he not be clever at finding his way. The only safe course in such mishap is to find, if you can, a rippling burn, and then to follow its downward course. But this is not an easy or pleasant way of spending even a portion of the night. One day we shoot on another favourite ground, to arrive at which it is necessary to climb for an ex- ceedingly long time. The entire morning's shooting has to 136 performed on rising ground. A wide AMONGST THE PTARMIGAN. 47 expanse of moorland is before you, and grouse are abundant, but the climb is a stiff one, and requires an amount of toil that would dishearten ordinary shooters. Let only that wild hillside be reached, and then, if you hold your gun straight, all your trouble will be compensated for by the number of grouse that will fall to your gun. Bang ! bang ! goes the breechloader, and I see that the shooter has made his mark, for an old bird, being heavily hit, " towers/' flying straight upwards as long as life lasts, then twisting and tumbling it falls from its high altitude, dropping dead at my feet. A bird of beautiful plumage and fine condition was this, probably three or four years old, its legs being closely feathered down to the extremity. As we journeyed along I came upon a little rill with a tiny waterfall, by the side of which was a lovely bed of ferns, growing luxuriantly around the basin ; the purple heather blooming beautifully in this sheltered nook. Owing to the heavy rainfall, this part of the moor was so wet that it was only to be compared to a moist sponge on a large scale, and the walking was most difficult. Forgetting for a moment the caution I had received when I first entered on the moor as to treading on the very light green mossy spots that are so frequently met with, I set my foot on what appeared to be safe ground, but only to find myself up to the knees in the cold spring and deep mud of this man-trap. Very cold was that water when it trickled over the tops of my boots, admonishing me to use more caution for the future when traversing a mossy piece of moorland. 48 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. After luncheon the rain came on in heavy showers, and the heather became so wet that birds would not lie, even if it cleared, and nothing remained to be done but to wend our way homewards. As I sit writing in the Manse, the sun shining brightly, I cannot but note the beauty of the scene. Prior to the occupation of this comfortable abode by the newly- ordained minister, my friends were for- tunate enough to secure it for a few weeks from the incoming tenant, a gentleman of culture and refine- ment, as shown by his well-stored library of choice books — of inestimable value, if only as a means of killing time in such winters as the last, when the road was blocked by snow for many weeks. Seen under those circumstances, the prospect from the window I am now sitting at must have been widely different from the smiling aspect the place now assumes. Placed in a sheltered spot, a steep bit of hill being immediately at the back, and facing a south aspect, a long view is obtained of the valley, the high hills, and the swift- flowing Shee. At this period of the year the oats in front of the Manse are perfectly green, showing no signs of coming into ear at present. Haymaking is progressing in a highly dilettante style. Up the snow- white walls of the minister's house a tropaeolum of a delicate carmine hue climbs ; several rose-trees are in full, profuse bloom, one being of a specially beautiful description; a laburnum is also to be seen in full blossom; whilst green gooseberries and currants are to be gathered in the garden. This contrasts greatly with what we experience in England, where most of the foregoing flowers and fruits are long since over. CHAPTER VI. FAEEWELL TO THE HIGHLANDS. " COME what come may, Time and the hour runs through the roughest day," Shakespeare tells us, and my experience proves it true also of the fairest and pleasantest periods of our enjoyment ; for the time has now arrived when I must bid farewell to the Highlands, and the varied sports enjoyed in that favoured part of Scotland. The day prior to our departure was fine, though a stiff breeze was blowing, which, as we climbed the hills, made itself felt, and caused the birds to rise at very long distances, rendering it difficult for shooters to make a good bag. Not being satisfied with the result of my sport amongst the ptarmigan, I deter- mined to make a supreme effort on the last day that I should have the opportunity of adding to my score. I chanced to read a few days since some facts in natural history, showing that the " upper limit of the common grouse is 1800 feet ; the range of the white grouse or ptarmigan extending from 1800 to 3000 feet/' A wonderful provision of nature was pointed out by the head-keeper, who showed me a feather of the 50 ON TEE GRAMPIAN HILLS. ptarmigan, within which was a second small feather of soft down, forming a lining, which affords extra protection from cold for the birds abiding on the higher range of the hills ; whilst the common grouse, which lives at a lower level, has no such provision made. It was on the mountain-tops that I was to go on this occasion to enjoy the exciting sport of shooting ptarmigan. In order to do this I had to walk some two miles or more over the rough, rising, and in places boggy ground, before the base of the mountain was reached, up which I had to climb in order to get within shot of these wary birds. It was no easy task to attain the topmost ridge. However, following the under-keeper, I, after considerable exertion, surmounted the difficulty, and stood on the summit, breechloader in hand. In order to find the ptarmigan, it was necessary to struggle over the immense beds of loose granite stones which covered the mountainside, seeming as if at some time, ages ago, there had been an eruption of granite stones, so thickly did they lie down the hillside. Balancing myself as well as I could, holding my gun as carefully as possible, both barrels being at full cock, I stepped upon these treacherous stones, which frequently gave way under my feet, rolling down the steep declivity. Up rises the first covey, but not within reach of my gun : we mark them down, one alighting on a ledge, up to which I was bound to climb if I intended to have a shot. With tottering steps, and almost breathless, I reached the spot, and Eamsay pointed out a ptarmigan sitting amongst the stones, which, from the similarity of its plumage to the gray and FAREWELL TO THE HIGHLANDS. 51 moss-spotted boulders, was difficult to discern. For many minutes I looked in vain for the bird, though it was within twenty yards of me ; but at length I espied it. I had a fair chance as it took wing, but missed it, and the ptarmigan, rising high in the air, vanished from my gaze. It was the last twenty yards of that tall climb that incapacitated me from taking good aim. I could with difficulty keep my balance ; I had to take care that I did not shoot the keeper, or my friend and the gillies, whom we met at this point. No wonder that I missed the bird; the wonder was that I was there to miss it, for it was the roughest walk I ever took in pursuit of any game. Then we rested for a few minutes beside one of the countless bright, clear, cold springs that trickled down the mountainsides, and refreshed ourselves with the pure water, necessarily qualified with whisky. Then we resumed our sport, and my companion, stout of limb and full of vigour, soon was amongst the ptarmigan, adding largely to the bag; though the birds were wild and could only be got at when scattered and rising singly. After my friend I toiled, with difficulty holding my own, until the trysting- place was reached and the luncheon-basket opened. Having had half-an-hour's rest we started again, my companion suggesting that I should climb another mountain, higher than any I had yet ascended, in order to see the view, as well as to follow the ptarmigan, which he had marked down on its height. Accom- panied by Ramsay, I wended my way up Cairn Yourn, being well rewarded for the trouble of mounting its steep side by the view of the grand scenery around it. D 2 52 . ON TEE GRAMPIAN HILLS. As far as the eye could reach were tall mountainB, lochs glistening in the sunshine, valleys through which meandered bright sparkling streams ; which at this distance resembled fine threads of silver as you traced their course through the distant correis far away. The atmosphere this day being clearer and brighter than on any other during my visit, I see the Lomonds, a tall range of mountains towering towards the sky Varied and beautiful indeed is the prospect, the light and shade alternating, and the whole forming a panorama of wild scenery as grand as any I have ever seen. Looking on the other side, I see the hills in the- vicinity of Braemar, the tall summits being enveloped in gloomy clouds, sombre and grand, a contrast to the blooming picture I had just turned from. As I resume my walk up rise thirty brace, then a covey of six brace. We get single shots and scatter a covey, marking some down on the side of a far-off hill. After a brisk walk the place is reached. Lome, our hand- some black-and-tan setter, points, standing as firm as a rock. Up rises a ptarmigan, only to fall dead amongst the heather. The rest of the covey rise, and are off to a more secure resting-place, but I mark and follow them again with success, until the time arrives to make for the keeper's lodge, where I was to join my com- panion. Arriving there I found him awaiting me, and so ended the last and not least exciting of our many days' fine sport, the total bag being thirteen brace of grouse and fourteen and a-half of ptarmigan, as well as several hares. Whilst resting during this hard day's work, Ramsay pointed out the spot where, in a cave, lie buried the bodies of those slain in a fray between the men of Glen Isla and the men of Glen Shee, in the FAREWELL TO THE HIGHLANDS. 53 bow-and-arrow time, as lie termed it — rather an inde- finite, but certainly a distant, date. In those days the Spital of Glen Shee, Glen Thaitneach, and Glen Beg had numerous inhabitants, as shown by the ruins of many houses, then occupied by small crofters, who owned sheep and cattle, which fed on the adjoining hills and moors. Now the only houses in that district •can be counted on the fingers of two hands. A feud existed between the men of these glens, caused by a habit of cattle-raising, the Highland caterans having a rooted idea that it was their mission to steal other people's cattle, which naturally led to complications, and finally to a battle on what is now the highroad to Braemar. On one side were ranged the men of Glen Isla, and on the other slope the men of Glen Shee, led by a noted chief, Cam-rhoua by name — otherwise the red man — a diminutive and deformed being, but possessed of much courage and cunning, and a notable marksman, whose arrow seldom missed its aim. As a specimen of his craft and quickness of perception a tale is extant that on one occasion several caterans came in search of him, seeking his life in retaliation for some kinsman slain in one of the neighbourly raids that were common in those parts. Noting their approach, he at once assumed the ways and appearance of a daft cheild, which thoroughly deceived the visitors who had so unceremoniously entered his home; then, taking up their bows one by one, he shot the arrows as far as possible. Still not suspecting that he was the man they were in search of, they told him, as he had fired the arrows away, he must go and pick them up. This ,he did ; and, having thus gained a good start, he 54 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. escaped without difficulty from his enemies. But to resume the account of the battle : The men being drawn up within four hundred yards of each other, the fight began ; the caterans and men of Glen Isla, making true aim, the men of Glen Shee fell fast, and showed a disposition to retreat. All this while, Cam-rhoua was lying in a secluded spot, having made a vow not to engage in the strife until the sun had passed over him ; but, on hearing that the men of Glen Shee were falling fast and needed support, he caused himself to be carried to a cave over which the sun shone sooner than on his late resting-place. Then calling to the captain of the caterans, " man for man/' he advanced, and laid him low with his first arrow, shooting all the pick of the enemy, and finally gaining a grand victory for the men of Glen Shee. The bodies of sixty caterans were borne away, and others remained unclaimed, the dead of the victorious side being buried where they fell, in the cave which was pointed out to me, and which may be readily seen by those travelling between the Spital and Braemar; the site being close to the "Queen's Well." Such was the story I listened to, as I rested on a piece of rough rock. I cannot tell how the truth may be, I tell the tale as 'twas told to me. Before concluding it may be as well to give a few words of information to those unacquainted with the Highlands of Scotland and the way in which sport is to be obtained. The price of a moor commences at the diminutive figure of 5Z. ; whilst the cost of a deer forest reaches to the large rental of 7000Z. per annum. FAREWELL TO THE HIGHLANDS. 55 This, of course, is an entirely outside price ; and many good deer forests, with plenty of grouse shooting, are obtainable for sums of 1000Z. or 2000Z. A deer forest being pointed out to me, I naturally alluded to the total •absence of trees — not a single one was visible ; a forest being but a mountain side or pass, the favourite resort and abiding-place of deer, which are jealously preserved. The shootings on level moors command high prices, as it is easy work to make a big bag when the grouse are driven by a host of beaters to you. On a moor like Rhidorach a man must be able to endure any amount of fatigue and to earn every bird by " the sweat of his brow/' Of deer-stalking there are two courses by which an antlered head is to be secured. The first is by renting an expensive and well -stocked deer forest, and having a drive, the shooter being placed at con- venient spots by which the deer pass, slaughtering the animals without trouble or exertion. The other mode is to stalk the stag over moor and mountain, being on the ground before daylight, often following in pursuit for a whole day without obtaining a shot, taking long detours to get the wind of the stag, crawling then a mile or two on hands and knees, through the burns, over the boulders noiselessly ; lying down at times to avoid detection, at length creeping stealthily until within range, and then, if your hand is steady and you are cool and unexcited, you may occasionally bring down a stag with each barrel. Of the Highlanders I must say I formed a most favourable opinion. They are shrewd, civil, and obliging, without showing a sign of servility. Well-informed, as a rule, steady, domesti- cated, and thorough lovers of sport ; warming to a •congenial spirit, and making themselves pleasant and 56 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. agreeable. Amongst the shepherds I met with men thoroughly acquainted with the topics of the day. Living amongst the mountains he has plenty of time for reading whilst tending his large flock. Contented with his lot, which appears to be a little dull — No thoughts hath he but thoughts that pass Light as the wind along the grass. Of the keepers too high praise cannot be given; thorough sportsmen, first-rate breakers and managers of dogs, well acquainted with the habits of every description of game and their haunts and favourite spots during different periods of the year, it is in their power to aid the shooter greatly in making a good bag, more especially if they find they are working with a true sportsman, who appreciates their exertions. After wishing a cordial good-bye to those dwelling in the Spital of Glen Shee and the immediate vicinity, we posted at a rapid rate to Blairgowrie, thence by train to Perth, where we received every possible attention ; our luggage was carefully disposed of, not a package being found wanting, though their name was legion. Shown into a similar carriage to that in which we travelled when going north, we in due course went to bed, to find on awaking that we were within twenty miles of London. Our party broke up on arrival at Euston, mutually pleased with the sport and society we had enjoyed, and regretting the necessity of drawing our visit to a close, and bidding farewell to the Highlands for awhile. CHAPTER VII. THE BBAEMAE GATHEEING. Breathes there a man, with soul so dead, Who never to himself hath said, This is my own, my native land ! Whose heart hath ne'er within him burned, As home his footsteps he hath turned From wandering on a foreign strand. If such there breathe, go, mark him well ; For him no minstrel raptures swell ; High though his titles, proud his name, Boundless his wealth as wish can claim ; Despite those titles, power, and pelf, The wretch, concentered all in self, Living shall forfeit fair renown, And doubly dying, shall go down To the vile dust, from which he sprung, Unwept, unhonoured, and unsung. Lay of the Last Minstrel IP you would see pride of nationality displayed, historic traditions observed, and old feelings of clanship maintained,, then attend the annual gathering at the Castletown of Braemar ; and note well the bearing of the braw Hielanders, retainers of the Laird of Inver- cauld and the Earl of Fife, when they march on the ground with banners flying to the martial music of the bagpipes, in order to take part in the athletic games 58 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. and many sports, which are so heartily entered into and contested with so much spirit and good-tempered rivalry, by the sturdy clansmen who assemble in con- siderable numbers on the occasion of this popular gathering. Braemar being within a comparatively short dis- tance of Balmoral, the proceedings have often been honoured by the presence of Her Majesty ; a fact that adds largely to the excitement of the scene, and calls forth the most strenuous exertions on the part of the competitors to bear off the honours of the day. It was an exceedingly bright morning in the early part of September last (1881), when I started for the Spital of Glen Shee, to drive a distance of fifteen miles to attend these Highland pastimes ; but notwithstanding down a declivity and cross a somewhat wide, swift- flowing burn. This was not an easy task, but I accom- plished it, not, however, without some trouble, and then I began to ascend the hillside. By the time I had reached the height of five hundred feet I was. breathless — dead beat, in fact — and sat down on a big boulder-stone, and thought what a fool I was to have imagined for a moment that I could walk over such ground. The Cairnwall, a mountain over 3500 feet in height, was pointed out to me as being the home of the ptarmigan, and I was told that part of the first day's beat was the side of this Grampian Hill, the summit of which I felt morally certain would never be reached by me, and that if the. HINTS ANENT HIRING MOOES. 73- ptarmigan were only to be found at such high alti- tudes, I should never see those beautiful birds, how- ever I might get on with the grouse on the lower level. Aroused by the repeated calls of my companion, a man in the prime of life, his age being forty and his build herculean, who made light of the work — which, by-the-way, he was accustomed to — I held my tongue and toiled after him until, as I ascended higher and higher, I found, to my astonishment, that the feel- ing of fatigue was passing away, that I had gained my second wind, and was able to walk the remainder of the day without fatigue. It is evident that there must be something marvellous in the properties of the Highland atmosphere to allow of a person of my age walking day after day over moor and mountain for ten or eleven hours. Such, however, was the case ; and I climbed Cairnwall, Glas Muol (or Miele), Ben Goulipingr Cairn Yourn, and most of the other mountains which travellers from Blairgowrie to Braemar see as they journey from the Spital of Glen Shee down Glen Beg to the watering-place at which the coaches stop, known as the Queen's Well, near the Devil's Elbow, a point which 110 one will be likely to forget who has ever travelled that way, for certain it is that a more ugly turn cannot be imagined than that which the coaches have to be tooled round. Here I can give the sports- man a hint, should he never have walked over the Grampian Hills before, which may be useful and con- duce greatly to his comfort in walking : it is to take special care to provide himself with several pair?? of boots, not too thick or heavy, well studded with nails,, and fitting truly, and to wear them into shape before- 74 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. he commences work. Heavy, clumsy, clodhopper's boots are a mistake, and only tire the wearer, and are apt to chafe the feet where there is a wrinkle; whereas light boots of pliable leather will be far more com- fortable, and can be rendered thoroughly waterproof if well dressed with dubbin. Of course the intending sportsman will peruse the pages of " The Sportsman's Guide," in which he will find a long list of moors, deer-forests, and salmon-fish- ings which are to let ; particulars being published by Mr. J. Watson Lyall, of 15, Pall Mall, of properties, the rentals ranging from 5Z. to 4000Z., and even more. However, with foresight and judgment in the selection of a moor, a fair amount of sport may be obtained at a cost of 400Z. or 500Z. per annum ; but prior to con- cluding a bargain for this description of property, the tenant proposing to rent a moor should walk over the ground and make inquiries as to the head of game, and who last shot over it. If the occupier was a sportsman he will probably find that a fair stock of breeding birds has been left; if a pot-hunter has rented it, doubtless he will find few but old birds remaining, as your pot-hunter goes in for numbers, and slaughters every bird, big or little, old or young, that comes in his way ; and it is only the wary old cocks and antiquated hens that escape his murderous gun. Having secured his shooting, the next consideration must be his dogs. My experience tells me that black- and-tan Gordon setters are the best sort of dogs for Highland work, being hardy and able to stand the severe climate, and capable of doing any reasonable amount of work. Having judiciously selected his HINTS ANENT HIEING MOORS. 75 moor, and provided a good team of dogs, he may, especially if he has the good fortune to fall in with a clever and willing keeper, look forward hopefully for a good season's sport when the glorious 12th of August arrives. One further hint I will venture to give : that is, to use the Schultze gunpowder in preference to the or- dinary black powder. The combustion is quicker and more complete ; consequently there is far less smoke. Sometimes the sight of the bird is obscured when firing the second barrel on a dull heavy day, the smoke of the black powder hanging about and hindering the shooter from taking ready aim. With regard to the selection of guns, the number of different sorts being legion, Purdey of course ranks amongst the highest and best of the many makers, and from his stock the sportsman can obtain whatever style he thinks will suit him best without fear of dis- appointment. My attention was recently drawn to an article in Land and Water (April 22nd) on an improvement in what is called by Messrs. Silver the " automatic " safety bolt as applied to a hammerless gun, and upon examination subsequently of the gun I came to the conclusion that it fulfilled all the conditions pointed out by the writer in that paper. A large selection of guns of every sort can be seen also at E. M. Reilly & Co.'s establishment in Oxford Street, and the intending purchaser will be difficult to please if he cannot suit himself at one or other of these noted makers. CHAPTER XL AN IMPERIAL HUNTRESS. I. A KEEN air was blowing, and a heavy mist veiled the landscape, as I drove rapidly along on Saturday, on my way to the meeting of Sir Watkin Wynnes cele- brated pack of hounds, which was fixed for Macefanr the residence of the Hon. Edward Kenyon, five miles from Whitchurch, in the county of Shropshire. The hour named was half-past ten; and it was evident that the desire to see the Empress of Austria in the field was uppermost in the mind of the dwellers in this part of Salop. Horses and carriages were at fabulous prices, every available vehicle and every possible horse being requisitioned for this important occasion. Com- menting rather strongly on prices for vehicular con- veyance, I was met with the old familiar rejoinder that it was not so much the paucity of horses as the rarity of the presence of an empress in this somewhat primi- tive part of the world that sent up prices to so high a point. Trotting smartly along, we passed many well- mounted men, some in scarlet with green collars, the uniform of the hunt ; several ladies, who looked as if they were well accustomed to face a big fence or th& occasional tall banks, and old hawthorn hedges, which AN IMPERIAL HUNTRESS. 77 are the characteristics of this country. Arriving at Macefan, I found Charles Payne, who has hunted Sir Watkin Wynnes hounds for the last fifteen or sixteen years, with nineteen and a half couples of useful hounds, which showed evident signs of hard work, "being rather fine drawn, though looking fit to go the pace, as I found they could do. Awaiting the arrival of the pack, we paraded in front of the house, out of the way of the immense crowd that had assembled in an adjoining field, through which it was arranged that the imperial huntress should pass, so that the many who had travelled from far and near might look upon the royal visitor. Sir Watkin Wynnes hounds hunt the extensive district around Wrexham, Ellesmere, Whitchurch, and Oswestry four days a week, and are kennelled at Wynnstay, near Ruabon, in Denbigh- shire, and have a world-wide reputation as one of the crack packs of the country. Sixty couples of hounds -are* maintained, in order to show sport to the inhabi- tants of this district. The whips, J. Blower and W. Finder, were well mounted, and looked neat and efficient workmen. Close to time the Empress, attended by several of her suite, drove up, and, having alighted, entered the house. The clever-looking bay thorough- bred horse which had been selected to carry her majesty was quickly brought up to the door, and, after a short delay, this ardent votaress of the chase proceeded to mount her steed, whilst her grooms were instructed by her to alter the saddle to suit her require- ments. In immediate attendance were Sir Watkin Wynn and Captain Middleton, who pilots her majesty on such occasions ; nor could any better man be found, being'a first-rate performer across country. From her 78 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. graceful seat, and the way in which she handled her reins, it was evident at a glance that the Empress is an accomplished horsewoman. The nag selected as her first mount appeared at first sight to be rather slight, but as the Empress is a light weight, riding only about nine stone, there was no doubt that the thoroughbred could carry her in proper form. The dark-blue habit, having a trimming of fur round the collar, was per- fection, fitting her elegant figure with the utmost pre- cision, not a crease nor a wrinkle being observable, and cut to the precise length that a well-made habit should be. Then Captain Middleton leads the way, and the Empress, followed closely by Sir Watkin Wynn, entered the paddock, looking at the hounds and addressing the huntsmen in gracious and pleasant style. Prior to the hounds being thrown into cover there was time to observe the large number of persons assembled, riders and lookers-on, among whom I noticed Lord Combermere and Lady Paget, Lord and Lady Rocksavage, the Hon. Edward Kenyon of Mace- fan, Mr. Hay ward Lonsdale, Major Bulkeley, Captain Beatty, Captain Cote, Mr. Poole of Marbury, Mr. Oliver Ormerod, Mr. Cross of Wirswall, Mr. and Mrs. Briggs, Mrs. Godsell and Miss Thompson, Mr. Hill (well known with the North Shropshire hounds), Mr. Reginald H. Corbet (Master of the South Cheshire hounds), Captain Baldwin, Mr. Parker, Messrs. Harrison, etc. — Churton Vernon, Mr. Richard Cox, of Malpas, Master Black, and a host of others hailing from far distances. Then the hounds were trotted off to a cover close at hand, which, it was said, was sure to hold a fox. Payne promptly throws them into the gorse, and " Halloo ! halloo ! yo have at him ! " such AN IMPERIAL HUNTRESS. 79 are the sounds that we hear. While the hounds are busy in their endeavour to find a fox, the Empress rides quietly -to the coverside, and an opportunity is afforded to everyone of seeing and admiring this distinguished huntress. In a very few minutes the welcome cry of " Tally ho ! tally ho ! Gone away, gone away ! " is heard, and there is a rush of horsemen, all endeavouring to get a good start. Piloted by Captain Middleton, the Empress gets through the crowd, and goes away at a rattling pace, taking the fences in right good form. The bay is excited, and starts at a tremendous pace, seeming as if he would get the better of his rider, but the Empress is equal to the occasion. Pulling him together, and turning him round, and being thus cleverly steadied, he goes in proper form during the remainder of the run. The fox goes in the direction of Carton, and then makes for the Bickerton Hills ; afterwards doubling back, he returns to the cover at Macefan, but is not allowed to remain there long, and breaks cover again this time across the vale, where the ground is deep and holding, making for the Wyches, and thence in the direction, of Malpas, when the hounds were lifted to a "Halloo !" at the fox having been viewed crossing the Whit- church Road. I was able to take a note of the field, a very small portion of those who started being with Payne when he made a cast, and got again on the line of the fox, who led them a merry and somewhat cir- cuitous dance of fully two hours over a stiff line of country — a run, however, that was nevertheless entirely satisfactory, and thoroughly en joyed by the royal visitor. Of the Empress's skill as a horsewoman there can be no difference of opinion, and of her love of fox-hunting- 80 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. there is still less doubt, as shown by her energetic mode of proceeding, having hunted three days in succession, after a long and tedious journey. By con- stant exercise and, I am told, by a regular course of gymnastics, a state of health is maintained which enables her to ride long distances, and to enjoy with- out fatigue her favourite sport. Those who witnessed the management of her horse on this occasion could not doubt her nerve, and those who followed her over this difficult country could not fail to admire her skill and judgment in riding to hounds. I have seen many ladies who ride boldly and gracefully to hounds — notably Lady Grey de Wilton and Mrs. Sloane Stanley, whose performances across the broad pas- tures of Leicestershire are well known to all fre- quenters of Melton ; but it is no flattery to say that for elegance of style, undaunted courage, beautiful seat, and light hands, the Empress of Austria is not to be excelled by any one of our boldest and hardest riding horsewomen. Combermere Abbey is situated within four miles of Whitchurch, and great is the satisfaction of the tradesmen of this quiet town at the fact of the Empress having selected their locality for enjoyment of hunting, instead of again visiting Ireland, as originally intended. It was not clever on the part of the inhabitants of that country to have driven away so distinguished a visitor. The large expenditure of her establishment would, I should have thought, been valuable, but as the fashion of " Boycotting " those who rode the hounds in certain counties was adopted, it became necessary to change the venue, and hence the selection of this part of Shropshire, where oppor- AN IMPERIAL HUNTRESS. 81 tunities offer of riding with five different packs of high-class hounds, over a good though stiff country, where foxes abound and good sport is generally shown. The number of hunters for her majesty's own use that have been brought over is ten, thirty- five are provided for the suite and servants, and some ten or twelve carriage-horses, whilst the total number of the suite and servants, I am told, is no less than eighty. Little doubt that, from the tradesmen's point of view, such an invasion is looked upon with com- plaisance. Should there be no fixture to-morrow, I hope to have a look at Combermere Abbey, which, I am told, is well worth seeing, being situate in a beau- tiful country, and well placed for hunting, as hounds can always be reached within reasonable distances. On Tuesday the hounds will meet within a short distance of the Abbey, when I hope to have another opportunity of seeing the imperial huntress go across country. It is expected that a great number will attend the meet on that day. The term for which the occupation of the mansion has been arranged is six weeks, at the expiration of which time the hunting season will be drawing to a close. The cold winds, productive of many pecks of dust, which are stated to be worth a king's ransom, are, nevertheless, great drawbacks to sport, since when the wind is in the east it is neither good for man nor fox-hunting. As regards the market-town of Whitchurch, which is distant from London some one hundred and eighty-three miles, it may be truly said that it is a quiet — nay, even rather a sleepy — locality in which to pass a lifetime ; emi- nently businesslike and respectable, though a trifle dull ; old-fashioned as to its streets and buildings, but 82 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. boasting a fine old church. It also boasts a re- markable monument to John Talbot, first Earl of Shrewsbury, surnamed the English Achilles, who was killed at the battle of Bordeaux. His bones were transferred from France and interred at Whitchurch. The police arrangements of the district are under the direction of the chief constable, Captain Harrison, and Superintendent Plant, as well as the chief superin- tendent of the Shropshire constabulary, Mr. Haines, who unostentatiously perform their duties, whilst showing themselves courteous to all comers who require information. ii. CHILL blew the wind, with a bitter accompaniment of sleet, as I galloped along en route for Combermere Abbey on Monday morning. A gray mist partially veiled the country, causing the venerable oaks and ancient hawthorns to stand prominently in the gloom. There was no fixture within a moderate distance of Whitchurch, and therefore, not having the opportunity of riding to hounds, I determined to visit the Abbey, in order to see the residence selected for the Empress of Austria during her temporary sojourn in this country for the purpose of enjoying the pleasures of the chase. Gradually the mist cleared away, and I was able to form an opinion of the nature of the locality. I saw a wide expanse of undulating land, principally grass, over which the going was delightful. To ride across this country at the tail of a pack of fleet hounds requires a clever, bold, and resolute horse, if the rider wishes to go the pace and take a place in the first AN IMPERIAL HUNTRESS. 83 flight. Inquiring my way, I was directed to a lodge of which no other portion was visible save the door and window, the remainder being covered with a dense mass of tangled ivy. I trotted along through an extensive plantation, where weird and knotted oaks and moss-covered hawthorns were the principal features. Emerging from this woodland, I soon came in sight of the Abbey, a pile of ancient buildings having no archi- tectural pretensions, placed in a sheltered hollow on the bank of a large lake or mere, of some hundred and fifty acres in extent. It did not appear a very inviting place for a winter residence, but being in the centre of an excellent hunting country, the object the Empress had in view is sufficiently attained. Eeferring to Cam- den, I find that " Cumbremere Abbey was founded and endowed in 1133 by Hugh Malbanc, Lord of Nampt- wich, for Cistercians/' In Camden's time it belonged to " Sir Robert Salusbury Cotton, Bart." Further, I read that "A mile from Cumbermere Abbay in time of mind sunk a piece of hill having trees on hit, and after in that part sprang salt water, and the Abbat there began to make salt, but the men of the Wyches componed with the Abbay that there should be no salt made." Many additions and alterations have been made in the Abbey to render it suitable for its dis- tinguished tenant ; one room has been specially set aside as a gymnasium, where the necessary apparatus has been erected, and it is here that her majesty takes daily exercise for an hour. An extensive range of stabling, placed at some distance from the mansion, affords accommodation for the large stud which has been brought over from Austria. On arriving at the house I found that, as there was no meet within easy F 2 84 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. distance, her majesty was employing her time in taking horse exercise, galloping across the park, and visiting the training-ground that has been laid out for the exercise of the stud. Hurdles have been set up, and banks and fences made, over which the Empress rides in order to keep herself in good practice. After galloping round the park, I crossed over the bridge that spans a narrow part of the mere, pulling up to observe the many coots and divers that were disporting themselves on the bosom of the lake. On Tuesday the meet of the South Cheshire Foxhounds was arranged for Groldbourne's Farm, Wilkesley, one of their best fixtures. When I looked out at daybreak I found a heavy fall of snow had covered the roofs of the houses. As the morning advanced the snow-fall increased, until it was evident that there could be but little sport, even if the hounds should put in an appearance ; and as there was a distance of nearly seven miles to be traversed ere Wilkesley was reached, I decided that it would be a waste of time and energy to attempt gaining the trysting - place ; an opinion which was shared by several sportsmen who had travelled a considerable distance by train to join in the chase. A message had been despatched to Mr. Corbet, conveying the intelligence that the Empress would not attend the meet in consequence of the severity of the weather,, which rendered riding to hounds both difficult and dangerous. After drawing for some time a fox was eventually found in Wilkesley Cover, which went away in the direction of Audlem, giving those who were hardy enough to ride on such a dismal day, and over ground AN IMPERIAL HUNTRESS, 85 in such a heavy state, a tolerably satisfactory gallop, amongst whom Lord Kocksavage, Lord Combermere, Major Buckley, Mr. Tollemache, and some other .habitues of the hunt were found enjoying their favourite pastime in spite of the foul weather. The snow having ceased for awhile, the Empress sallied forth to Wilkesley cover, but the hounds had found and gone away at a rattling pace, and as the snow once more descended thickly, her majesty bent her steps homewards. This day (Thursday) the Empress is expected to be present at the Hunters' Steeplechases, at Ash, near Whitchurch, having sub- scribed the liberal sum of 200?. towards the stakes. Should the weather be fair, a very large concourse of spectators is expected on the course. It is believed that Her Imperial Majesty will honour Mr. and Miss Tollemache with a visit for a few days at Dorfold Hall, in North Cheshire, where an oppor- tunity will be afforded of riding with the Cheshire Hounds, of which Captain Park Yates is the well- known master. This noted pack hunts the district around Northwich, Chester, and Tarporley four days a week, no less than fifty couples of high- class hounds being required to enable Captain Yates to satisfy the requirements of this extensive district. Afterwards her majesty, it is stated, will pay a brief visit to Baron Schroder, at The Kookery, near Nantwich. The Empress will also take an opportunity of riding with the North Staffordshire Foxhounds, of which the Marquis of Stafford is master, hunting the district around Stafford, Stoke-upon-Trent, and Crewe. This pack consists of sixty couples of grand hounds .and the district over which they hunt is very wide, 86 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. the kennels being at Trentham, the pack hunting four days a week. It will be seen, therefore, that abundant opportunity offers for our illustrious visitor to enjoy her favourite pastime nearly every day in the week during her stay in this country. CHAPTER XII. A ROYAL STAG-HUNT. To brightest beams distracted clouds give way, So stand thou forth — the time is fair again, Were the words I addressed to one of my sporting companions on the morn of the day which had been fixed for the visit of His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales to the lovely counties of Devon and Somerset, for the purpose of witnessing, for the first time, the exciting sport of chasing the wild red-deer over the heather-clad hills, through the emerald glades, the densely-shaded coombes, the wild and romantic spots which are to be found in and about Exmoor. All that was needed to make the visit enjoyable to the Prince was fair weather ; but so wild and wet had been the spring, summer, and autumn, as far as we had entered upon it, that scarcely anyone ventured to predict a fine day. A friend of mine, whose temper has been sorely tried, and whose ideas have been sadly muddled by the novel system of weather forecasts, inquiring of me how I accounted for these wonderful climatic dis- turbances, I replied that it had been well known for a long period that the sun had been under a cloud, and 88 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. the elements having assembled, it was resolved that " Sol" should go into liquidation; hence these tears, or, more properly speaking, tempestuous times. Better fortune, however, was in store for us, and Soon as the morning trembles in the sky, And uiiperceived unfolds the spreading day, I am up, anxiously watching for the coming dawn, and I see The quenchless stars, so eloquently bright ; Untroubled sentries of the shadowy night, pale away, and retire before the jocund morn. For once in a way we were to have bright sunshine, calrn- breathing breezes, and pleasant weather throughout an entire day. The Prince of Wales had travelled on Thursday last from Devonport to the Dunster Station, by rail, arriving at that singularly quaint old town at 5.25 P.M. An immense concourse of spectators, hailing from all parts of Devon and Somerset, were eagerly awaiting a sight of the Heir Apparent, who had never previously visited this, the fairest portion of his dominions. Upwards of a hundred tenants of the Dunster Castle estate, on horseback, were in waiting to escort the Prince through the town, which was gaily decked with flags, evergreens, and flowers; whilst the assembled multitude cheered the royal visitor to the very echo. With little loss of time the cavalcade reached the Castle, a venerable pile of buildings, erected on a tor, from which there are very extensive views of the adjacent lovely country, with the noble range of the Quantock Hills, which trend down to the Bristol Channel, as a background. The A ROYAL STAG-HUNT. -Castle was erected by Sir William de Mohun, one of the noblest of the host who accompanied William, the Conqueror to England. The Luttrells of Dunster Castle, his descendants, are now represented by Mr. George Fownes Luttrell, a large landowner, a Master of Foxhounds, and a thorough sportsman. A large .and select party of visitors were invited, including Prince Louis of Battenberg, Viscount and Viscountess Bridport, the Hon. Kosa Hood, Lord Ebrington, Rear- Admiral Hood, C.B., Mr. and Mrs. Granville Somerset, Colonel Kingscote, Sir Henry Keppel, Lord Charles Beresford, Mr. Alexander Luttrell of the Rifle Brigade, the Rev. John Russell, Mrs. Bosanquet, and Mr. Knollys, etc. Twenty-seven guests in all sat down to an elegant banquet in the truly baronial hall. Knowing that there would be little chance of obtaining accommodation at either Dunster, Porlock, or Minehead, I journeyed to my favourite quarters, the Lion Hotel, at Dulverton ; and on my arrival there I found every room engaged and every horse and •carriage bespoke. In fact, so great was the demand, that, rather than be disappointed of the sight, one gentleman amongst the many seeking in vain for the means of reaching the meet on the following morning at Hawkcombe Head, telegraphed to London for horses to be sent down. Having taken the precaution of ordering a horse some days previous, I found the following morning, at the appointed hour of eight o'clock, a sturdy cob brought round to the door, upon which I mounted and trotted away smartly, having •eighteen miles to go to cover, travelling for some time along the bank of the River Barle, which was brawling loudly, as its sparkling waters hurried over the big $0 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. boulders on their way to join the Exe. Away up the steep hills, through the narrow lanes, stopping to pick a spray of the beautiful wild honeysuckle, which drooped gracefully from the tall hedgerow, admiring the innumerable beautiful ferns that deck the banks, and the beautiful foxgloves peeping out from amidst them. Then Winsford Hill is reached, from which there is a glorious view over the vast space of undu- lating ground, visible as far as Dartmoor. At this season of the year the country usually presents a brilliant appearance, the lovely hues of the heather-bloom being the chief feature; this year of cheerless weather, however, has sadly changed the aspect of hills and dales, scarcely a handful of blossom being visible. Then as I cantered quickly along I overtook numbers of horsemen, and many in carriages, -carts, and waggons, hastening to Hawkcombe : then Exford was reached, where I halted for five minutes. This place I found crowded, and I was prepared by the signs on the road to find that Devon and Somerset had come out literally in their thousands, clustering on every hillside along the route which the Prince was expected to traverse on his way to the fixture. The pack, consisting of fifteen couples of fine hounds, was on the hillside surrounded by a group of well- known sportsmen, amongst whom were Mr. S. H. Warren of Dulverton, the acting Master in the absence of Mr. Mordaunt Fenwick Bissett, whose absence was regretted greatly, more especially as it was caused by the very recent death of his father, Archdeacon Bissett; Mr. Fronde Bellew, the Master of the well-known Dulverton Foxhounds, and Mrs. Bellew, one of the boldest and best riders it has ever A ROYAL STAG-HUNT. 91 been my good fortune to see; Dr. Collyns, ac- companied by his nephew, who, following the foot- steps of his uncle, will keep up the reputation of this sporting family, if I mistake not ; Earl Fortescue ; Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, a large landowner, and a staunch supporter of stag-hunting, who, though never joining in the sport himself, could not refrain on this occasion from making one of the number assembled to do honour to the Prince, doing everything in his power to ensure success, especially in case the stag should run in the direction of Cloutsham, and over Dunkery, the highest point on the coast of the Bristol Channel, upon which the warning beacon stands that guides the mariner up and down this dangerous passage ; Mr. Nicholas Snow, the Master of the celebrated pack of foxhounds known as the "Stars of the West;" Mr. Chorley, the Master of the Dulverton Harriers ; Mr. and Mrs. Connack Marshall ; the Eev. John Jekyl and Miss Jekyl ; and a host of well-known residents and riders of this part of the •country, including Mrs. Collyns, Mrs. S. H. Warren, Mrs. Williams, and many others who, from want of space, I am unable to enumerate. In the midst of his pack, mounted on a clever-looking horse, was Arthur Heal, the well-known huntsman, successor to the renowned " Jack Babbage " who hunted the Devon and Somerset for many years, whose quiet demeanour and manner attracted the especial attention of His Eoyal Highness ; with George Southwell, the oheery whip and hard rider over this extremely difficult country ; and Miles the Harbourer in attend- ance, whose province is to track the stag, denoting his whereabouts — a most important person in the 32 02V TEE GRAMPIAN HILLS. proceedings, as he it is we depend upon to find us a •' ' runable " stag on this momentous occasion. Then, whilst the large assemblage are picnicing and enjoying themselves, a loud and protracted cheer announces "the arrival on the scene of the royal visitor, who, in a carriage-and-four, passed at slow pace along the line of spectators, who, waving hats and handkerchiefs, welcomed their Prince with loud huzzas. Accompanying His Royal Highness was Prince Louis of Battenberg, Mr. Luttrell, the Rev. John Russell (the octogenarian sportsman, so well known and deeply respected in these parts), and Lord Charles Beresford. After leisurely passing through the line of lookers-on and halting frequently, enabling all present to see him 'to advantage, the carriage moved on to the stables •of the hunt, where Mr. Prince, the stud-groom, was in waiting with the Prince's two favourite hunters, Cockney and Dashwood, who carried him safely over flood and field during his visit to India. Then, His Royal Highness having mounted, Arthur Head, with three couple of tufters, proceeded to draw for a stag in Lord Lovelace's beautiful covert, which runs down in the direction of the seashore. The view from this point was lovely in the extreme ; across the Channel was the Welsh coast, seemingly basking in the bril- liant and welcome sunshine which favoured us this day j "before us was Bossington Point, a bluff, bold head- land, overlooking Porlock Bay; to the right the grand heather-clad hill of Dunkery; and on the hillsides, and upon every " coign of vantage/' a serried host of -spectators. Ere long the horn of the huntsman is heard on the -j there is a quickened movement on the part of the A ROYAL STAG-HUNT. 93 phalanx of horsemen assembled at the farther end of the wood ; then the welcome cry of " Tally ho ! tally ho ! " is heard, as a fine stag is seen crossing the open space, going in the direction of Porlock ; but, fearing to face the open, he returns to his favourite home amidst the leafy shades, turning out one of his younger companions from his lair, and quietly taking his place, as is the cunning custom of the wild red-deer when pursued by his foes, for we see a fresh and lighter stag moving in the woodland wild. Then again we hear loud and repeated cries of tl Tally ho ! " from the crowd, and gallop away in hot haste, making for Exmoor. Here we are doomed to disappointment, for it is a young stag, and Mr. Warren does not allow the hounds to be laid on the scent. Then wo make our way down a tremendously steep hill, through a babbling stream, along a lovely valley, mounting another hill, and going in the direction of Deer Park — a portion of moorland in the vicinity of Oare Valley, especially reserved and carefully fenced in as a preserve for the red-deer by the owner, Mr. Snow, who is one of the greatest supporters of this unique and manly pastime. Very soft was this treacherous grass-grown part of the moor, soddened as it had been by the long and pene- trating rains, and my sturdy brown cob was suddenly floundering up to his hocks in a boggy place, from which, however, he cleverly extricated himself without much difficulty. ' ' Keep moving, sir," said a well-mounted farmer ; "this is a very soft spot, and it doesn't do to stand still." Frequently as I have gone across this country, I have never known it to ride so badly, and when crossing at full speed over that part in which deep 94 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. trenches had been cut for the purpose of drainage, it was due to the cleverness of the animal I was mounted on that I was saved from coming to grief whilst crossing these grass-grown, rotten pitfalls. A short time had only elapsed when a stag went away, going in the direction of a grand line of country, and we tallied him in vain, for there were several stags and hinds on foot ; but at last one broke away from the coombe, and went away at a rattling pace, and, the hounds being promptly laid on, we were soon urging on our steeds through the boggy ground, rising pre- cipitous ascents or descending the almost per- pendicular hillsides, crossing swiftly-flowing rivulets, stumbling over the big boulders, but still going on, on, in pursuit of our quarry. At one time I saw three men down at a grip, their horses sinking deep in the quagmire, one of the fallen losing a valuable gold watch in the mud. There goes the Prince, pounding along right well over hill and dale and moorland, making good way over the treacherous ground, when suddenly his horse sinks deep into the bog, and, floundering about for a moment, cleverly extricates himself, and is soon seen mounting one of the steep hills, bearing his rider safely to the summit, where the Prince halted for a moment to get a breather, whilst most of the riders had dismounted in order to ease their nags when climbing this steep acclivity. Then after crossing Doone Valley, and struggling across the forest, we cross the road and run in the direction of Lynton. Here the ground is firm and the going better. The field had by this time been greatly reduced by the pace and the difficult line which the stag had taken ; then, after running within a short A ROYAL STAG-HUNT. 95 distance of Lynton, he doubles back and returns over the hills, making for Bad g worthy Waters, where he is finally run into and killed. The Prince, who was well up at the finish, quickly dismounted and waded across the stream, and after witnessing the customary ceremonies attendant on the death of "the some time monarch of the glen," expressed himself greatly delighted with the run, which lasted for one hour and forty-five minutes. Only a select few were able to live close to the hounds throughout this capital chase. Conspicuous amongst them was Mr. Collyns on his clever little gray horse, one of the best and most earnest of the many good sportsmen who ride with the Devon and Somerset; Mr. Chorley, the well-known Master of the Harriers, which show such fine sport over the heather; and Mr. Pearse. The Prince, leaving his escort and dispensing with the guidance of his pilots, ff ganged his ain gate " for awhile, mingling with the farmers, and delighting them with his affability and good-humour, chatting freely about the country and the noble sport he had witnessed. " Ah Prince," said one, "you're no bad judge of a horse," when he told them that he had bought the nag he was riding out of a baker's cart in the Isle of Wight. Mr. Collyns was then presented to his Royal Highness, for the purpose of offering for accept- ance 'a copy of " Notes on the Chase of the Wild Red-deer in the Counties of Devon and Somerset," written by his father, the well-known sportsman of former days, Charles Palk Collyns, a rare work, which gives the author's experience, during forty-six years, of the mysteries of " harbouring, tufting, and 96 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. slotting the red-deer," which the Prince graciously accepted. Earl Fortescue, Mr. Nicholas Snow, the Eev. John Kussell, and several others were, if nob in the very first flight, there or thereabouts during this clinking and now historical run. Great credit is due to that most genial of sportsmen, Mr. S. H. Warren, for his admirable management, as also to Sir Thomas Dyke- Acland, Mr. Snow, and in fact to all the landlords and tenant-farmers of the district over whose ground the Prince of Wales first gained his experience of hunting the wild red-deer. On Saturday afternoon the Prince terminated his brief visit, returning by rail to Devonport. A rare day of sunshine in this gloomy time caused the thousands present to have a most enjoyable time ; but the weather the following day returned to its evil courses — a soaking rain and heavy mist blurring the beautiful landscape. One consequence of this sunless season is the want of the customary bloom on the heather, which usually at this season is the glory of the country. Scarcely a handful is to be gathered where, in other seasons, I have ridden for miles knee- deep amidst its beautiful blossoms. Never in my experience have I seen the country in so deplorable a state ; all along the route from London to Somerset- shire the hay is to be seen rotting on the ground or floating on water ; a vast proportion of the grass still remaining uncut. In the lowlands the floods are out, the rivers are lakes, and the usually placid stream- lets are now brawling brooks; the wheat in many places is badly laid, scarcely showing a yellow tint ; here and there a sickly-looking crop of oats has been A ROYAL STAG-HUNT. 97 cut, and the sheaves hang down their heads in a despondent fashion. There is scarcely any fruit — here and there a few pears, no apples, plenty of green leaves, but few flowers, and those wearing a washed- out appearance. A more melancholy prospect for farmers I have never known; it is too late for recovery; without sunshine neither wheat, barley, nor oats can have any quality, and what hay is gathered must necessarily be inferior. The earth is literally soddened, and it required some considerable nerve to gallop over the treacherous soil of Exmoor, where you may suddenly find your fleet career checked by an inglorious fall into one of the deep bogs, from which. at is no easy matter to extricate yourself and horse. CHAPTER XIII. HOUNDS AND HORSES. FROM all the great hunting centres the most satis- factory accounts are given of the sport enjoyed during this season, so far as it has gone. Scarcely a day has been lost up to the present time ; the frosts that have been experienced, though severe whilst they lasted, have been of the briefest. Several weeks of dry, genial weather brought the ground into capital con- dition, the scent being greatly improved thereby ; and all the crack packs in the kingdom have reason to boast of downright good sport and many clinking runs. Foxes, as a rale, are plentiful; the sport more popular, if possible, than ever, as proved by the large "fields" that attend the various meets of the three hundred and forty-two packs of hounds that hunt over the United Kingdom. " Men may come and men may go/' but in my opinion hunting-men are as likely to " go on for ever " as any other class, the hereditary love of the chase being one of the most deeply-rooted feelings in the breast of a true Briton. It may be that the style of hunting the stag, the hind, the fox, and the hare is somewhat different from that of old times ; but still the same inbred desire to indulge in HOUNDS AND HORSES. 99 the pleasures of the chase exists as strongly now in Englishmen of the present day as it did in those of the distant period alluded to. At Melton there has been a considerable number of visitors. The Earl of Wilton has not visited Egerton Lodge as yet, being away on board his yacht, seeking in warmer climes to escape from the rigours of our variable climate. The numerous friends and admirers of this venerable sportsman will be glad to hear that he is in good health, and contemplates returning about the end of February or the beginning of March, when he will be found in the saddle once more. His fine stud is in rare form, and Martin, his lordship's stud- groom, may be depended upon to have them as ' ' fit as fiddles " when his noble master once again joins in the sport which he has followed for so long a period. Looking back so far as 1837, I find in the " Quarterly Review," which contains a list of visitors then residing at Melton, the names of the Earl and Countess of Wilton as being residents. I believe that the period at which the Earl of Wilton first visited that fashionable locality dates considerably beyond half a century. With the exception of the well-known Mr. Little Gilmour, he alone, of all his contemporaries, is to be found enjoying his favourite sport with unabated ardour. Colonel Forester, who has had a few runs with hounds, going as boldly as ever, met with a slight accident the other day, and has left for Bretby Park for a week or two. The best sport as yet has been shown by the Belvoir Hounds, which are hunted by Frank Gillard, one of the most persevering of huntsmen, who may always be depended upon to show sport if it is possible to do a 2 100 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. so. Those who wish to see a beautiful pack in superb condition and exhibiting the highest breeding, should not fail to have a look at the Duke of Rutland's hounds. Selecting the time when the fixture is at The Three Queens, anyone doing so will have a good opportunity of judging of their merits and riding across nice country, the going over which is easy, the fences always being practicable. Tom Firr, the noted huntsman of the Quorn, had a bad fall, which has incapacitated him for awhile from carrying the horn. A somewhat similar mishap has befallen his first whip, who also is unable to be in his place, and the master, Mr. Coupland, has to hunt the hounds himself in the interim. Being a thorough sportsman as well as fine horseman, he will not fail to keep up the prestige of this famous pack. The Cot- tesmore, of which clipping pack Mr. Baird is the new master, have had some good runs, Neal doing his best on every occasion to kill his fox, and rarely failing to show good spOrt in that finest of all hunting countries. In the Vale of Aylesbury Sir Nathaniel de Roths- child's staghounds have had some clipping runs; notably one a few days since., when the deer led them a merry dance over the big fields and tall fences of the Vale, being finally taken at a point seven miles beyond Buckingham, the hounds having to travel twenty-seven miles on their way home to the kennels at Ascott. Amongst those riding with this pack are the Hon. Robert Grimstone, the Earl and Countess of Clarendon, the Earl of Ilchester, the Hon. Rupert Carington, the Hon. K. P. Bouverie, Mr. John Foy, Messrs. Redfern, Gillat, Lucas, Chinnery, D'Avigdor, Marshall, and a host of hard-riding men. Mr. Leopold HOUNDS AND HOESES. 101 de Rothschild has entertained a succession of visitors, many of whom have joined in the sport. This fine pack of hounds will be found well worth a visit by anyone who wishes to see a brilliant lot of animals, to the perfection of which Fred Cox, who has hunted them for a quarter of a century, has devoted his time and attention. The success of his endeavours may be judged of by an inspection of the beautiful establish- ment at Ascott, near Leighton Buzzard. Capital stabling is to be had at the Hunt Hotel, close to the station, and every comfort will be found at that well- managed establishment. Those selecting this pleasant place for a residence will find no less than seven packs within easy reach, and may hunt, if they so desire, every day in the week. The Bicester foxhounds have had some clinking runs, and generally show grand sport when hunting in the Vale. The Whaddon Chase, of which Mr. W. Selby Lowndes is the master, also hunt in the vicinity of Leighton Buzzard, performing across the magnificent Vale of Aylesbury. Mr. Mor- daunt Fenwick Bissett retires at the end of the season from the mastership of the Devon and Somersetshire Staghounds, having held that post for about twenty- five years, during which long period he has shown grand sport over those beautiful counties. Parliamentary duties necessitate his relinquishing the pleasures of the chase, and he will be succeeded by Viscount Ebrington, whose family have always been first and foremost in the support of the noble sport of hunting the wild red-deer, so popular throughout Devon and Somerset. Those who have taken up their abode at Rugby have been favoured with capital sport with the Pytchley, 102 ON" THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. the Atherstone, the North Warwickshire, and Sir Bache Canard's hounds ; notably the grand run from Braunston Gorse with the Pytchley, described by Goodall, who speaks with the experience of a lifetime devoted to the noble sport as being one of the very best that he can remember. This rattling run lasted over an hour, with only two slight checks, the hounds finally pulling down the stout old dog-fox that had shown them this fine day's sport. A very large ' 'field" assembled on this occasion, but as the pace was very severe, the number living to hounds was soon reduced to reasonable limits. Mrs. Upperton and Mrs. Barton went extremely well ; and Mr. Muntz — who, as usual, was in a good place — had the misfortune to kill his favourite chestnut-horse Hero, who fell at a double, breaking his back. Goodall, as usual, was in the right place throughout, and has the satisfaction of knowing that no hounds could have done their work better than the famous Pytchley pack. Sir Bache Cunard has had very good sport, and recently over the Billesdon Coplow country had a racing run that winnowed the " field " so thoroughly as to leave only seven or eight who were able to live with the hounds, consisting of the following well-known riders with this crack pack : Mr. Tailby, the late master ; Mrs. Franklin, Sir B. Grant, Mr. Fernie, Mr. Logan, Mr. Allen, and Mr. Dunlop. Travelling farther afield, an entirely different country is that hunted by the " Stars of the West," of which Mr. Nicholas Snow is the master, a thorough sportsman in every sense of the word, to whom the riders with the Devon and Somerset Staghounds are so largely indebted for the preservation of the wild HOUNDS AND HORSES. 103 red-deer in that portion of his estate dedicated specially to those noble animals. The country over which Mr. Snow hunts his hounds lies in the vicinity of Porlock, Lynton, Minehead, and Exmoor. There is nothing, in my opinion, more delightful than riding over this thoroughly wild tract of land, amidst some of the loveliest scenery that is to be found in England; listening to the music of the hounds as it is echoed and re-echoed from hill to hill; now galloping over the brown heather, climbing the steep ascents, fording the wide and swiftly-flowing streams. The Dulverton Foxhounds, of which Mr. Froude Bellew is the well-known master, are kennelled at Rhyll, hunting the country around Dulverton, Wins- ford Hill, Tiverton, and South Molton. It is a thorough treat to ride with this fine sportsman, who has passed all his life amidst the beautiful scenery of North Devon, devoting much time to the pursuit of the stag and fox, and the bringing down of the many black- cocks that are seen winging their flight over his exten- sive tract of moorland. An opportunity was afforded, a few days since, of seeing how the Dulverton hounds do their work, when they found an exceedingly stout fox at Barkham Heath, on Lord Poltimore's North Molton estate, from whence they ran over the south- west part of Exmoor to Lanacre, then away to Has- grove, over the Moorland of Winsford Hill to Hawk- ridge, killing their fox after a tremendous run extending over a distance of twenty miles. The Surrey Staghounds have had capital sport. A recent run, said to be one of the best ever met with by those hunting with this clever lot of hounds, showed their power of endurance. The noted hind, Brown 104 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. Duchess, was uncarted a few days since at Norwood Hill, near Horley, and went away for twenty minutes,, taking to the water, in which she remained for somo time. The pace up to this point was terrific. Emerging from the waters of the brook in which she had re- freshed herself, she went away at a racing pace, and was not captured until Daddies Hill, in Ashdown Forest, was reached, a distance of twenty-five miles from point to point. Out of a large " field " a few only were up at the finish, Hickman (the huntsman),. Mr. John Percival, and Mr. Walter Norris being in time to secure Brown Duchess after this wonderful chase; Mr. W. Kobinson (the late master), Mr. Wm. Morris, Mr. Geo. Morris, and Mr. W. H. Moore were the only other horsemen who lived throughout this remarkable run. The Surrey Staghounds are a very fine lot of animals, with great power and ability to stay, as this run proves ; the deer are a fine lot, both stags and hinds being in first-rate condition^ affording many clinkers over this varying country. That well-known sportsman, Mr. Richard Rawle, whose hounds hunt the country in the vicinity of Berkhamp- stead, has shown the followers of his clever pack of staghounds some very good runs; one, when a hind recently purchased from the herd which I saw taken a short time back in Thorndon Park, was uncarted, verifying a prediction I made, that it would take a good deal of time and all that noted sportsman's skill. to capture her when turned out before his pack. The red- deer of the herd which Lord Petre has recently broken up are noted, Sir Nathaniel de Rothschild having several ; and Boreham, who hunts Lord Caring- ton's bloodhounds, tells me that he has had some o£ HOUNDS AND HORSES. 10& the same stock when Lord Wolverton hunted the- Dorsetshire country. I am glad to be able to say that a considerable number of those captured in Thorndon Park are now in Weald Hall Park, where I saw them a few days since, quite at home in their new quarters. Masters of hounds should bear this in mind, as in tim& Mr. Christopher Tower will have to draft some of the- extensive herd that he now possesses. One of the consequences of the sad state of the "distressful country" has been an unworthy inter- ference on the part of some of the Land Leaguers with the members of various hunts. Owing to the dis- turbances in the sister kingdom, the Empress of Austria has relinquished her intention of visiting- Kilkenny, with the view of indulging in her favourite pastime. Sir Kobert Harvey's brilliant pack of har- riers has had some clinking good runs, one lasting considerably over an hour, the stout hare eventually being run into. Very fast are these well-bred hounds, and handsome as well, being derived from the pack of harriers belonging to Mr. Tom Mashiter, who sold them to his Royal Highness Prince Albert, at whose death they became the property of the Prince of Wales ; and when his Royal Highness gave them up- they were transferred to Sir Robert Harvey. When the fixture is in the vicinity of Harmondsworth, a rare day's sport may safely be depended on. Stout hares,, open land, and easy fences are the characteristics of the neighbourhood ; and many a clipping run have I enjoyed over that pleasant country in bygone days when Colonel, now Lord, Hood was the master. So far the season has been an entire success. The heavy rains of the past few days will cause the land to- 106 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. ride very heavy, but with the coming of spring-time and open weather there will be found many noted packs which the ardent sportsman should not fail to visit. No man will have completed his education unless he has ridden to hounds in Yorkshire, and noted the workmanlike style in which the thing is done in that sporting county. The Bedale, consisting of forty- eight couples of good hounds, hunt the country around Bedale, Thirsk, Kipon, and Northallerton ; the master, Major F. H. Dent, carrying the horn. The Earl of Zetland's pack, consisting of fifty-five couples of stout, high-bred, handsome hounds, hunt the district around Croft, Tadcaster, Darlington, and Richmond regularly four days a week. The kennels are at Aske Hall, near Richmond, and the huntsman the well-known sports- man, T. Bridger Champion. The far-famed York and Ainsty makes up a quartet of first-rate packs, not to be surpassed by any in the kingdom. Turning next to Lincolnshire, several crack packs will be found : first and foremost the Brockelsby, of which the Earl of Yarborough was the master. I speak in the past tense, having been told that he has retired ; but, as rumour is not always strictly correct in its announcements, it is to be hoped that it has erred in this case. This noted pack hunts four days a week over the extensive district lying around Limber, Brigg, Caistor, Grimsby, and Market Rasen. The pack consists of fifty-three couples, and is hunted by Alfred Thatcher. The Burton Hunt, the headquarters of which are at Reepham, near Lincoln, can exhibit fifty-seven couples of noble hounds, hunting four days a week around Lincoln, Gainsborough, and Market HOUNDS AND HORSES. 107 Easen, showing first-rate sport. The dwellers in Lin- colnshire, like those residing in Yorkshire, delight greatly in horses and hounds, producing some of the very best. Drawing nearer to the metropolis, several good packs are to be found. The Oakley for one, hunting around Bedford, Sharnbrook, and Olney — a wide expanse of country — four days a week, having fifty- eight couples of excellent hounds to do the work. Easily reached from London, this old-established and first-rate pack should be seen. Many a fine day's sport have I witnessed with the Oakley in the days when Frank Beers hunted them. When the fixture is Shelton Gorse, let those who would like to see a down- right good run try their luck there, and if, as usual, a stout old fox goes away, they will have no cause to regret the trouble of travelling so far. If space per- mitted, there are many other packs of hounds deserv- ing notice, and it is clear to me that, notwithstanding1 the bad times, which have so largely affected the agri- cultural interest, neither the landlord nor tenant farmer has shown the least desire to interfere with the national sport of fox-hunting. In respect to horses, it is evident that there is little decrease in the value of first-class animals, as proved in the recent sale, by Messrs. Tattersall, of Mr. Flower's fine stud, three out of the string realising the large sum of 1500 guineas, and the remainder highly satis- factory prices. Eeally good hunters, hacks, or harness- horses command as high prices as ever they did. Nevertheless, if you are prepared to open your purse- strings wide enough, and will visit Rugby, Acton, Green Street, Stamford Street, the Westminster Road, 108 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. or other establishments of our well-known dealers, I will engage that you shall, with very little trouble, put together a string of first-class hunters that will carry you over any country in the United Kingdom. On former occasions I have spoken of the presence of ladies in the hunting-field ; and gradually the attend- ance of the fair sex has increased until it has become an invariable rule that a number, many of whom ride thoroughly well to hounds, are found attending the fixtures of all the crack packs. Many of these- votaries of Diana are well mounted, as they should be; but not unfrequently I observe ladies mounted upon brutes with heads like fiddle-cases, legs re- sembling those of a rocking-horse, and mouths as hard as a board of poor-law guardians. What a lady requires is a willing horse, with good temper, light mouth, courage if called upon to show it, and at the same time a perfect fencer, if she is to be carried well to hounds. It will be seen by the foregoing particulars thafe hunting at any rate is not one of the pastimes of the country that is affected by the disturbed state of the- political atmosphere, nor seriously influenced by the- clouds now appearing in the horizon. CHAPTER XIV. SIR EGBERT HARVEY'S HARRIERS. If your horse be well bred o,nd in blooming condition, Up to the country and up to your weight, Oh, then give the reins to your youthful ambition, Sit down in your saddle, and keep his head straight. IT was with a feeling of strong conviction that the above advice was thoroughly sound that I made up my mind to have a day with Sir Robert Harvey's Harriers, of which I have often heard very favourable reports, and with which, in bygone days, when they were the property of his Royal Highness Prince Albert, and were under the management of Colonel Hood, I have had many a rare good gallop in the neighbourhood of Windsor. Ascertaining that the fixture was at the village of Wraysbury, I requested Mr. Sherley, of Twickenham, to send on a favourite horse, which I have ridden on several occasions, and which I like better every time I get off him, and em- barking on board a South-Western train, I journeyed to Staines, in order that I might go hunting the hare, as a pleasant pastime and agreeable occupation at this season of the year. Arriving at Staines, I promptly sought out the well-known establishment of Mr. 110 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. Stollery — the Railway Hotel — and confiding to the hostess of that well-managed hostelry that I needed refreshment before commencing the arduous duties of the day, and that I required merely the simplest fare — in fact, explaining that what little I took I liked to be of the best, I repaired to the stables to look after my steed. At that moment there appeared on the scene a pack of hounds, consisting of nine couples and a half of useful-looking animals, which upon inquiry, I found were the well-known lot of draghounds, now the property of Mr. Herbert Rymill, whose residence is in the vicinity of Staines, which Mr. Pitcher was taking out for a little exercise. These hounds, I am told, show rare sport to those who enjoy following a drag, every one being a foxhound, entered to this particular style of sport, and enabling those who ride to them to enjoy a right-down good gallop over a carefully-selected line of country. In- tending on a future occasion to try my fortune with them, I retired to my hostelry and made a fierce onslaught on the roast-beef and other luxuries I found awaiting me, after which I mounted my steed, who was as fresh as paint and desirous of showing how thoroughly light-hearted he was, to which end he jumped about and disported himself so gaily that I thought it advisable to give him a breather across some of the meadows adjacent to the town. Having allowed him to play the wag for awhile, I trotted him away sharply until I reached Wraysbury Church, where I fell in with the hounds. Before, however, business commenced, Mr. Birch insisted that all the " field " should partake of his hospitality, and George Farr and his whip having retired with the pack to the SIR ROBERT HARVEY'S HARRIERS. Ill stackyard, I had an opportunity, whilst the numerous guests of this hospitable sportsman were enjoying the good things placed before them, of looking over the eleven couples and a half of beautiful harriers forming the pack on this occasion. A remarkably even lot of well-bred animals are those of Sir Kobert Harvey's, measuring eighteen inches only, but wonderfully fast, as subsequent proceedings showed, as well as steady and musical in their work. Time was afforded to observe those I knew amongst the visitors present — some seventy or more well-mounted men and five or six ladies, assembled to enjoy a day's hunting under the most favourable conditions ; the day being per- fectly lovely — bright, warm, with a westerly wind, bringing out the gnats, a strange change from the bitter cold of the few previous days. First to attract my notice was the master, Sir Robert Harvey, of Black Park, mounted on a good-looking chestnut, -accompanied' by his daughter, whose subsequent plucky performance I shall narrate in due course, riding a useful-looking bay. Then Mr. Scott, the active secretary, who has for many years used every exertion to obtain success and subscribers — for this is a subscription pack — which exertions, by-the-way, are fully appreciated and acknowledged by the many gentlemen who for years have belonged to the hunt ; Mr. Peter Fowler, a staunch supporter, over whose land these hounds roam whenever they please, being always certain of sport whenever they visit the farm of this thorough sportsman, who is ever ready to give a hearty welcome to all-comers when the fixture is at his homestead ; Mr. Harris, of Staines, on a sturdy bay cob; Mr. Mavor, riding a handsome chestnut, 112 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. rising five years old, whose eager behaviour kept his rider well employed to control his anxiety to be first •and foremost in the flight; Mr. Willet, jun., of Wyke, riding a remarkably clever cob, the property of Mr. Farnell Watson, who, many of those riding with his crack pack of staghounds will regret to hear, is temporarily indisposed, and at present unable to appear with them, but whom we all hope to see in the saddle again very shortly; Mr. Warner, of the 18th Hussars, very well mounted, whom I observed going a burster over some timber, clearing the lot in wholesale fashion ; and Mr. Druce, on a big bay horse, which I noticed taking a stile in unusually good form. This specially attracted me, and riding up to this gentleman, lifting my hat, I said : "I have not the pleasure of your acquaintance, though I have that of your horse, having ridden him with the Quorn in a clipper from Gartree Hill, when, necessity compelled me to charge — much against my inclination — a tall, stiff, newly-erected flight of posts •and rails, over which he carried me like a bird/' When the Earl of Lonsdale gave up the Cottesmore hounds, he, I was told, presented this nag to Cannon, from whom Mr. Druce obtained him — a singular piece of good luck, as a better horse I never rode. Mr. and Miss Cave, Mr. Dearie, Mr. Forster, Mr. Stollery, on his clever jumper, the well-known gray that he has ridden for the last four or five years, and many others were also there. As soon as the convivial proceedings were concluded the hounds moved off, drawing first a large field newly turned up; next a piece of osiers, then a turnip-field, when up jumped a merry brown hare, which went SIR EGBERT HARVEY ''8 HARRIERS. 113 away a clinker. Then an opportunity was afforded of testing the speed of this pretty pack, for though mounted on an Irish horse with a turn of speed and well up to my weight, I had to stretch him a few to keep alongside of them during the fifteen minutes they raced after puss. Pressed hard, she took to a piece of covert, and though a fresh hare jumped up in view the hounds were not to be balked of their prey, and soon put an end to number one. This was a very pretty piece of sport, the hounds doing their work admirably throughout this pleasant little spurt. So far the fences were light and easily negotiable ; but as we approached the Thames in the vicinity of Magna Charta Island, and also in the direction of Horton, they assumed larger proportions, bringing several well-mounted men muchly to grief. Little time elapsed before we found another hare, which we hustled away at a racing pace, running into her in some seventeen minutes or thereabouts. Having been thus far successful, we speedily were on the line of another and, this time, a stouter hare, which took us across a park-like piece of pasture-land, and over a large section of ploughed ground ; then doubling back she went across some meadows in the direction of Horton. At this point she crossed a wide and deep brook — a piece of water that was big enough to stop every bold rider save one, and that one a lady, for Miss Harvey /"pulling her horse together, rode fearlessly at the big jump ; but her nag, hesitating for a moment on the brink of the dark and dirty-looking stream, and being compelled by its plucky rider to yield to her soft persuasions in the shape of a well-applied cut of her whip, jumped the lot, reaching the treacherous, 114 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. boggy bank on the opposite side only to fall back into the middle of the brook, from which,. whilst never losing her seat or her nerve, she had to be lifted off her horse by one or two gentlemen, who went breast deep in the stream, and bore her safely and uncon- cernedly to dry land. Whilst a portion of the field were using their best exertions to extricate the horse from his perilous position, the hounds had run into their third hare, after half-an-hour's excellent sport. Again we tried for another, and in full view of the pack up jumped a big brown hare, which went away merrily at a stunning pace. Two or three big fences winnowed the field, more than one or two biting the dust or the mud, as the case might be, and many shirking the big places or hesitating for awhile, until the hounds and the forward riders had reached the railway, when puss doubled back, making for Horton, where she was lost. After this, Mr. Scott suggested that as the field had tailed off considerably, and Sir Robert Harvey had expressed his opinion that the day was still young, the hounds should draw again for yet another hare. Thinking that as I should have to ride some eight or nine miles to Twickenham, and feeling a certain indescribable yearning for another " go in " at Mr. Stollery's ribs of beef, I quitted the gay and festive throng, and wended my way homewards after playing a capital game of knife and fork. Then reacking Twickenham in time to try a marvellously good-looking horse by driving him from Mr. Sherley's stables to the station in the dark gloom of the evening, I reached home after being on horseback for eight hours, well satisfied with such an unusually good day's sport. CHAPTER XV. THE EOTAL BUCKHOUNDS. YESTERDAY being Easter Monday, the customary large concourse of holiday folks assembled at Maidenhead Thicket,, in order to be present at the " meet " of the Royal Buckhounds, and to witness the uncarting of the stag. The proceedings on these festive occasions are not restrained by any of the rules usually followed in pursuing this branch of sport, the pedestrians taking for the nonce the place of the hounds ; the stag, when emerging from the van, being received with shouts of uproarious delight, and pursued by the multitude until he contrives to make his way through the brushwood and takes to the open country, soon, however, leaving that portion of his pursuers behind. The royal huntsman carefully threads his way, and, by judiciously adopting a circuitous route, is enabled to save his hounds from the danger attendant upon the rush of those on horseback and in vehicles who play the second part in the chase, pursuing, as long as they are able, the flying quarry, and when it has successfully shown them a clean pair of heels, then Goodall lays on his- hounds, and a more or less good run results, according to circumstances. Sometimes the stag is so bewildered H 2 116 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. by the shouts of the populace and badgered by his eager pursuers that he takes to the road, and speedily makes for a place of refuge ; at other times he, by a bold course, quickly emerges from the mob that sur- rounds him, gains the open, and goes away a clinker. Then may be witnessed a mad stampede for awhile, many biting the dust in their inexperienced attempts to exhibit their skill in horsemanship; but rapidly (C the field " is winnowed, the unaccustomed are left behind, not a few coming to grief, for Yonder a steed is rolled up with his master, Here in a double another lies cast ; Faster and faster come grief and disaster, All but the good ones are weeded at last- to quote one of Whyte-Melville's best hunting-songs. It is then that the select few who really can ride to hounds in proper form are left to the enjoyment of a rattling run, not unfrequently on these occasions going in the direction of Beaconsfield, the best line of country now left to the Royal Buckhounds. The splendid grass-fields in the vicinity of Harrow have been grievously cut up by that arch-enemy to the sports of the field, the speculative builder, who has had his wicked will, and dotted the fair lands with those hideous erections familiarly known as semi-detached villas, cunningly inserting the dangerous element of wire in the fences, so fatal to riders across country, in order to deter the knowing ones or to entrap the unwary. Leaving Windsor in good time, I trotted steadily away on Whissendine, one of Sherlsy's many useful nags, and with whose " pleasant leetle ways " I am well acquainted, having ridden him with much THE EOTAL BUCKHOTTNDS. 117 satisfaction on several occasions. Soon the towers of the grand old castle are left behind, and I pass through Eton, journeying in the direction of Bray, experiencing the feeling of exhilaration consequent upon being mounted on a pleasant horse and moving quickly through the crisp air of the early morning. All nature looks smiling and gay, So I'll join the glad throng, And go laughing along, For we'll all go a-hunting to-day — as the old song says. Well, of all sports there can be little doubt that hunting bears off the palm ; and though there is a small section of our legislators who would put an end to field-sports of every description, by destroying the game, cutting down the plantations, rooting up the gorse- covers, felling the ancient oaks and elms, levelling the beautiful hedgerows and fern-clad banks, plough- ing up the deer-parks, and consequently driving the country gentlemen, thus deprived of their sports, to seek amusements in other far-off places, I do not think, looking at present prospects, that that state of things will occur in my time. It is tolerably certain that I shall not live to see " the stately halls of England/' the mansions of the nobility, and the grand old historic castles shut up and dismantled, whilst the country is divided into two-acre holdings and occupied by a peasant proprietary. No, I don't think it will happen in my time ; and I fancy that as long as I can ride to hounds I shall find green fields to gallop over, good covers to draw, and stout foxes to follow ; and if after my time by chance this social deluge should swamp the country, I for one at any rate shall be safely landed. 118 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. Conceive anyone desiring to destroy Burnham Beeches in order to convert that hard gravelly soil into agricul- tural land ! I remember when in a fit of economy some zealous politicians, in their burning desire to benefit the country, destroyed Hainault Forest in Essex, hewed down the ancient Fairlop Oak, and con- certed the once lovely glades and leafy knolls into a most hungry and capital -devouring farm. This beautiful range of woodland- wild was within six miles of Whitechapel Corner, and, if now existing, would be invaluable as one of the lungs of the vastly-increasing metropolis that is so rapidly extending in every direction. So much for economy at any price. But a truce to such discursive reflections. We bore away along quiet lanes, past many a well-kept cottage garden, richly decked with the golden crocus, the modest violet, the graceful snowdrop, and " daffodils that come before the swallows dare, and take the winds of March with beauty," by " meadows trim with daisies pied," catching every now and then a glimpse of the beautiful bends of the Thames until the high-road to the Thicket is reached, and the "fun of the fair" begins. By half -past ten Phoebus 'gan to rise, or at any rate to draw the curtains, and the larks soared to the sky. Up to this time the whole country was enveloped in mist, a sharp white frost made the fingers tingle, and the hedges were covered with rime. The thrush, rejoicing in the brightness of the day, now commenced pouring forth a song of thanksgiving from the budding branch of the old elm-tree, believing that at last the dreary winter is over, and that there is a reasonable hope of sunshine and warm weather. The wild violets and fresh primroses peep out amidst THE ROYAL BUCEHOUNDS. 119 ike dead leaves on the banks of the fences, the aconite is in full bloom, and the hedgerows are ready to burst forth the instant they are assured that there will be no more frost. In fact, the country is only awaiting the proverbial warm April showers to bring forth a pro- fusion of wild blooms. Then the Thicket is reached after a smart trot of eight miles, and the scene on arrival is curious. From two to three thousand holiday folks on foot, and in every conceivable vehicle, as well as a host of horsemen on good, bad, and indifferent nags, are assembled. Around the deer-cart stands a dense mass of foot-people, anxiously awaiting the enlarge- ment of the stag who is to provide sport on this occasion. Stalls abound for the sale of sweets, juicy oranges, cakes, and at the public-houses runs an unceasing flow of ale ; and, to complete the picture, and delight the multitude, the Twyford brass band discourse music more or less sweet, adding to the originality of the proceeding, for in my long ex- perience in hunting the music has hitherto been con- fined to the horn of the huntsman and the cry of the hounds. All was mirth, jollity, and good-temper. Whilst waiting for the uncarting of the stag, I had time to look around and notice some of the habitues of the " Queen's," amongst whom were Lady Julia Follett, Lady Herbert, Miss Ellis, Miss Pigott, Mr. Crichell, Mr. Bowen May and his two sons, Mr. Nevill, Mr. Sherley and his son Walter — who is a chip of the old block, and bids fair to be as good a man across country as his father, for I observed him put his horse at a stiff flight of posts and rails, and afterwards at a tall fence, with much skill, pluck, and judgment — and Mr. Wise, jun. Amidst such a host 120 OF THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. it was difficult to single out even these few. Captain Hargreaves' drag, with a full load of passengers, was brought up near the starting-point, and a barouche, with four spicy bay, blood-like horses ; as well as many carriages containing residents in the vicinity. By noon the fog had entirely cleared away, and the sky was cloudless, the sun shining with a brilliancy worthy of olden times. Sol, in fact, after his long seclusion, came out strong — hot and strong, I may say — and as for the peck of March dust, bushels could have been easily gathered : I took away more than I cared to carry. Now Goodall appears on the scene with Bartlett and his other whips, and thirteen and a half couples of fine hounds. It was a difficult task to pilot them through the surging crowd, but this was accomplished satisfactorily. Then the order was given for the uncarting of the deer, the doors were opened, and out bounded Express — one of the largest, Goodall told me, he had ever seen. The crowd were wedged tightly in, and no space was allowed for his passage ; however, he took the matter in his own hands and cleared a way for himself, knocking down the people like ninepins, and making for the fields. After him followed scores of impetuous horsemen. What mattered it that the hounds were not even laid on, and would not be for fifteen minutes — the usual law allowed ? Away they went, helter skelter, and were soon lost to sight. Then Goodall brings up the pack ; they are laid on the scent, which, in consequence of the dry weather, was very indifferent, the fallow fields being as hard as the turnpike-road, and quite as dusty. At length they get away, followed by at least THE ROYAL BUCKHOUNDS. 121 five hundred horsemen. At the first fence down goes one, and the brown horse is up first, and gallops wildly away. At the second another rash rider comes to sorrow. " Yoi, over ! " I cried, as I saw him putting his horse at the fence in front of me, and ' ' Yoi, over ! " it was — right over, in fact — and the gray was first to find his feet, and go away at a clinking rate after the hounds. From this gentleman's acrobatic performance, I should imagine he intends to compete with the Hanlon brothers ; his prospects may be said to be encouraging should he carry out his presumed inten- tions. With repeated checks, constant over-riding of hounds, and now and again a brisk gallop, we go in the direction of Wargrave. When this point was reached, it was found that Express had crossed the river, and the hounds came to a check. Here the bulk of the after her journey, I accompanied Mr. Percivall to Mannington's stables, where I found her being dressed, after drinking some gruel, and she looked as fit to start on the return journey as she did when I first observed her in G-rosvenor Gardens. However, this she was not called upon to do, but remained in her stable until Monday morning, when Carter drove her steadily back, but not until Messrs. Hennah and Kent had photographed the group in their accustomed ex- cellent style, at whose establishment, by- the- way, in the King's Road, I saw a group of short-horn cattle, so beautifully taken as to form a most pleasing picture, and also a lifelike portrait of Isonomy, the admirers of which noble animal should hasten to inspect the resemblance of their favourite. This clever and enduring animal, which Mr. Percivall exhibited, was, I am told, purchased at a very high price ; her powers of endurance and clever style of going being well-known on the other side of the water ; and it is likely that a match will be made ere long, that she may further exhibit her powers by doing the same distance in an unprecedentedly short time. This, if her powers are not too severely taxed,, will be an interesting trial ; and as Mr. PercivalFs long experience and success in trottiog-matches are very well known, it may safely be left to his judgment N 2 196 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. not to call upon the willing little mare to do more than she can satisfactorily perform. For powers of endurance we must trust entirely to blood; half-bred ones will not stay. It must be blood, and good blood too, to exhibit that quality in the right good form that the little mare did ; and that appears to be fully recognised nowadays by our American cousins, if I may judge by some of the specimens that have been sent to the old country. They are beginning to see the value of breeding and training horses that can bend their knees and step away, finding those animals who can only " pace" are not suitable for the English market, though they are more appreciated on the Continent. There is no doubt that if attention is paid to this point the trade between the two countries in this class of horses will be continuous and increasing. Persons desirous of exchanging the dull and dirty ways of the gloomy metropolis for sunshine and fresh air should decide upon Brighton; then, if they recog- nise the fact that " Hurry is the Devil," and going steadily down the road, on the box of one of these well-appointed stages, should find themselves sitting down to an excellent and well-served dinner at The New Ship, meeting with a host of pleasant com- panions, as I did, they will thank me for the suggestion that they should travel " By Road to Brighton." CHAPTER XXIY. AN AUTUMN TOUE THROUGH NOETH DEVON AND SOMERSET. DURING the entire month of October any lover of English scenery, who has a week or fortnight to spare, may luxuriate amongst the most beautiful landscapes that are to be found in the lovely counties of Devon and Somerset. Grander scenery may be found in many parts of England, but nothing more beautiful than that which is within easy reach and approachable under the most favourable circumstances. Starting by the Great Western or South- Western Railways, Taunton is reached in about four hours and a half. Excellent accommodation is to be found at the Railway Hotel opposite to the exit-gate from the down platform. Here conveyances may be hired, and the route over the Quantox Hills to the Bristol Channel arranged ; or, if travelling by rail is preferred, the line runs direct from Taunton to Minehead, passing by way of Combe Florey, Stogumber, Watchet, and Dunster. Should, however, an intend- ing visitor, trusting to his own powers of locomotion, prefer to walk over this lovely country, the distance to be traversed before reaching the shores of the Bristol Channel will not exceed twenty miles. Either 198 . ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. when riding or walking, a vast panorama of smiling country is visible whichever way the eye turns ; on one side of this heather-clad range of grand hills is seen the surrounding rich Vale of Taunton ; on the other side the view extends over Bridgewater Bay to Burnham and Weston-super-Mare ; whilst following the line of hills which trend down to the Channel, a view of the Welsh coast is obtained. The prominent feature of these parts are the Combes, which may be described as verdant valleys, the hillsides of which are densely clothed with the redundant foliage of beautiful beeches and other luxuriant trees, which flourish so greatly in these parts. It is amidst these tranquil woodlands that the wild red-deer are found in their natural state, and these graceful animals roam at will over hill, dale, and moorland, affording grand sport to the lover of the chase, who follows them over the Quantox Hills, or the wild trackless waste of Exmoor, frequently pursuing the stag until he seeks refuge in the waters of the Channel. When the headland is reached from the tall cliff he bounds, And in the wild ocean escapes from the hounds ; Then, resigned to his fate, 'o'er the waters he's borne, And dies on the wild wave that breaks on Glenthorn, one of the loveliest spots on the coast of North Devon. Arriving at Quantox Head, the visitor should seek for St. Andries House, the residence of Sir Alexander Acland Hood, which is situate on the shore of the Channel, and is a most picturesque and beautifully- arranged abode for anyone delighting in fine scenery. From thence the traveller should make his way through Watchet to the quaint old town of Dunster, where His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales recently took up THROUGH NORTH DEVON AND SOMERSET. 199 his abode in the grand old castle, the property of Mr. Luttrell, who entertained the Prince and a numerous list of distinguished visitors during his brief stay in this portion of his dominions, where for the first time he enjoyed the exciting pastime of hunting the wild red-deer. After exhausting the wonders of Dunster, a visit should be paid to the Hill of Dun- kerry, the highest point on the coast, on which stands the beacon that warns the mariner during his passage up and down Channel of the dangers of this rugged shore. From this elevated hill a grand view of the country in the vicinity of Exmoor is obtained, and will well repay the traveller for the trouble taken in exploring these lovely scenes; and he should make his way to Cloutsham Ball, the property of Sir Thomas Dyke Ackland, which he will find most beautifully placed amidst leafy combes, dense woodlands, and verdant vales. Then, returning to the coast, a pleasant journey brings the traveller to Minehead, and thence on to Por- lock, at either of which places good hotels will be found. The view of Porlock Bay and the surrounding country is grand; and a visit to Hawkcombe Head will enable the visitor to see a large tract of this wild country. And from thence he can visit Oare Valley, Badgworthy Waters, and Doone Valley, and the romantic scenes amidst which ( ' Lorna Doone " is supposed to have resided, as told in the popular novel bearing that title, in which an admirable description is given of the wild part of North Devon. Thence on by way of Culbone, Glenthorn, the Foreland, and Countisbury, to Lyn- mouth, following the coast-line all the way. After dwelling as long as time permits amongst the beauties of Lynton, making excursions inland to the many 200 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. points of interest,, then away by Trentishoe, Comb- martin Bay, and Ilfracombe is reached. Here a long sejour may be made to great advantage, the surround- ing country being exquisitely beautiful, as well as the sea- views. Here every accommodation will be found for the visitor, and the longer he protracts his stay, the greater will be his admiration of the scenery of both inland and seaboard. Should time permit the visit may be extended to Barnstaple and Bideford Bay, and Westward Ho. Then returning by railway from Barnstaple, passing by Swirnbridge and South Molton, the traveller should halt at Dulverton ; there he will find excellent accommodation and moderate charges at either the Lion or Lamb hotels. At the close of October the scenery will be found at its greatest beauty; the dense, many-coloured woods, the emerald-green valleys, the sparkling streamlets, the tall hills, the narrow lanes hemmed in with straggling hedges, and banks clothed with innumerable ferns of every description, all combine to make up a pleasing picture. Adjacent to Dulverton is Pixton Park, the seat of the Earl of Carnarvon, through whose park flows the river Barle, well-stocked with fine trout, and shaded by the splendid trees that overhang the stream. A walk through the park will enable the visitor to see some specimens of the finest beeches, horse-chestnuts, and limes, such as would delight the eye of an artist in search of the picturesque. A beau- tiful drive is that which leads past Hele Bridge along the Valley of the Exe, by Haddon Woods, and on towards King's Brompton. Another beautiful ride or walk is by the side of the brawling river Barle, and along the valley that leads to Withypool. In the THROUGH NORTH DEVON AND SOMERSET. 201 vicinity of Hawkridge the scenery is truly beautiful, and at Castle Bridge, where the waters of the Danes Brook meet and mingle with those of the Barle, the visitor may pause for awhile and contemplate the beauties of nature. Here, seated beneath the mag- nificent and widely- spreading beech, which throws its shade over part of two counties, and dips into three several parishes, he can watch the trout leap, startle the game, and, if he wanders amidst the heather, awaken the blackcock from his nest in the brown heather; and if good-fortune befalls him, he may happen on a noble stag or a sleek hind in the deep shade of the densely- wooded combes which slope down to the banks of the river. Within a short distance he would come upon Torr Steps — Druidical stepping- stones forming a bridge across a broad and deep bend of the river Barle ; a romantic spot certainly, worthy of the special notice of painter, poet, and tourist, who may wander in many lands before they find so grand a piece of sylvan scenery. Another lovely drive may be had by traversing Winsford Hill, passing through Comber Gate and making for Exford. The entire length of this route is a grand and far-reaching panorama of undulating country, extending in one direction to Dartmoor, with hill and dale, meadow and moorland, densely-wooded combes and sparkling rivulets ; whilst on the other side the view extends over the Brendon Hills to Nettlecombe, with the Quantox Hills in the far-off distance. Leaving Dulver- ton, the line of railway passes through or near to Morebath, Wiveliscombe, and Milverton, landing the traveller again at Taunton, from whence, supposing him to be desirous of reaching London, he can travel 202 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. to Chard, and thence by the South- Western Railway, thus varying his route, passing through Yeovil, Temple- combe, Gillingham, and Salisbury — a preferable journey to that of the Great Western line, the country tra- versed being far more picturesque than by way of Beading, Bristol, and Bridgewater. CHAPTER XXY. A WINTER FAIR AT BOULOGNE. A WORSE fate may befall a man tlian that of finding himself located for a brief period during the early winter time at Boulogne. In order to thoroughly enjoy a few days at this pleasant watering-place, it is essential that the visitor should be utterly devoid of care; as, in the first place, if he has anything rankling in his breast, he will not rest well, for "Where care lodges, sleep will never lie." Neither must he have any remorseful recollections; his con- science must be void of offence, for in such case he will not be in a fitting condition to fully enjoy a week's idling at Boulogne. Neither must he be impecunious, for, though a moderately-filled purse will suffice for his necessities, yet by having a few spare napoleons in his pocket he will be able to in- dulge in sundry petits plaisirs, to very great advantage. It is essential, moreover, that the idler should be of a cheerful disposition, looking on the bright side of things in general, and must in no case be what is called 'blase, but must have yet some of the fire of youth remaining, in order to thoroughly enjoy a few days' active idleness, and duly appreciate and enjoy 204 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. the exciting pleasures of the ff Foire de St. Martin." Then it will greatly add to his comfort should he be the guest of an old friend — say in the Haute ville for choice ; in whose well-ordered establishment there is profuse hospitality — a tres bonne cuisine, wines of the country at discretion (" the claret smooth, red as the lip we press in sparkling fancy, while we drain the bowl ; the mellow-tasted Burgundy ; and, swift as the wit it gives, the gay champagne/' to quote Thomson), and all the accessories which are found in the elegant home of an accomplished and lettered hostess, whose recollections of men and manners extend over a long period in the far-off days when George the Fourth was king; and he will have a fair chance of enjoying an exceedingly good time of it. Such were the conditions, at any rate, under which I passed a week of indolent enjoyment, amidst delightful society, loitering on the pier, watching the crews of the fishing-boats beating to windward in the teeth of a rattling north-easter, and breasting the waves that came rolling into the mouth of the harbour, whilst the sea-gull Claps the sleek white pinion to the breast, And in the restless ocean dips for rest ; or roaming leisurely along the streets, observing the display of wares in the numerous attractive and enticing shops ; visiting the markets, especially the Halle au Poisson, in order to gaze upon the hand- some matelotes , whose graceful figures are prominent amongst the inhabitants of the town ; then, if tired of active exertion, lounging on a sofa surrounded with works of prose, poetry, and fiction, taking up by A WINTER FAIR AT BOULOGNE. 205 chance a volume of Kussian poetry published more than half a century since, picking out such lines as these : Or: Sporting like a happy child, Midst the forest's tenants wild. Sweetest, brightest rays of bliss, Never were as sweet as this. Leading to the conclusion that the Russian of that period was not altogether a barbarian, the scratching of whose skin revealed the Tartar. But what of the fair ? will be asked if I continue to deal with generalities. What of the fair ? forsooth! Why, a volume might readily be written of its numerous attractions. The site where it is held is the Haute ville, in front of the Palais de Justice, under the shadows of the Cathedral, and in the open space outside the gate, from which spot the best and most extensive view of the town, harbour, and coast is obtained, which, seen on a brilliant day, such as I was favoured with, formed a very pretty and pleasing picture — the brown sails of the innumerable fishing- boats being conspicuous far out to sea, whilst the white horses tumbled over one another, breaking with volumes of spray on the sandy and at times treacherous shore. By-the-way, the recent lamentable accident which caused the loss of the lives of three visitors, was, it appears to me, beyond doubt the result of a foolish disregard of repeated warnings ; so they paid the penalty of their rash conduct, the sea being tremendously high, and the swirl of the tide sweeping them away remorselessly. With ordinary prudence the bathing at Boulogne is safe enough; 206 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. but if people will venture into the sea when the waves are running mountains high and the tide is rapidly receding, what other than a calamity such as that which so recently occurred is to be expected ? Entering into the gay and festive scene, I observed innumerable stalls for the sale of cheap — I may say very cheap- jewellery, often exceedingly pretty in design ; gaudily- painted vases, and china ornaments of every de- scription, toys, bonbons, gingerbread, and pastry; and, above all, a "Bazaar a vingt-cinq centimes'9 where everything, from curling-irons to resplendent articles of jewellery, may be purchased for that mode- rate sum. Then, passing through the gate, the fun of the fair commences, my attention being instantly attracted to the caravan of a somnambulist, and I read with much interest a placard announcing the fact that "La critique est facile, Varl est difficile" with this remark: "Si vous doublet, veuillez enlrer;" but, not having the slightest doubt on the subject, I forbore to enter the somewhat frowsy-looking salon, pre- ferring to admire the external exhibition rather than penetrate the hidden mysteries of the many shows assembled at the spot — for instance, the Menagerie des Indes, from which issued stupendous roars as of wild beasts in anger, but which I feel morally certain were only the hoarse brayings of a deep -toned brazen horn. Great as is the excitement of the inhabitants by day, yet it is by night that the acme of enjoyment is reached. Then the tinkling of bells, the deep tones of the gong, the sharp crack of the rifle, the glare of innumerable lights, and the hoarse tones of the show- men proclaim that the real fun of the fair has com- A WINTER FAIR AT BOULOGNE. 207 menced. I watch the motley throng eagerly starting on the voyage sans fin, or, as we should describe it, riding on a "merry-go-round." There is the shoeless gamin, the staid middle-aged Frenchman, the mate- lotes and their admirers, the sailor and his lass, the demoiselles de comptoir, and the young men of the town, revolving round the gorgeously decorated and brilliantly lighted temple of pleasure, to the festive accompaniment of drum and organ, playing continu- ously the popular air of the " Jolie Parfumeuse," all for the small sum of one sous for the course, and a long course too. By sports like these are all their cares beguiled — The sports of children satisfy the child ; and why not ? I ask. Tempted by the title of one parti- cular show, Iresolved to witness the exhibition of L'Enfer, and, paying my vingt-cinq centimes, the price of admis- sion to the first-class seats, with a feeling somewhat akin to awe, I lift the heavy curtain and enter the myste- rious chamber, amidst a clash of cymbals, the roll of the drum, and the deep -toned notes of the organ, and, taking my seat in front of the proscenium, I read these startling words : "A la plus grande gloire du Satan." The walls, the ceiling, the panels, are decorated with symbols more or less devilish in their designs. The people flock in, the house is crowded, the curtain draws up, and you behold Satan reviewing the army of dmes condamnees, who, having crossed the Styx, are rele- gated to the cavernous depths below, amidst the beating of the gong, the rattle of the drum, and the explanatory remarks of the showman. First to appear on the scene was the avocat, whose manner of life was 208 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. described as having been somewhat shady, so to speak; he is hastily disposed of, amidst the derisive shouts of the audience, and the vivid flame of some fulminating material which adds solemnity to the scene. Then follows the boulanger who has been selling inferior bread, the butcher convicted of short weight, the tailor addicted to cabbage, the drunkard who has passed his days at L'Assommoir, who, when consigned to the shades below, goes off with a bang and an amount of blue light that is a moral in itself ; the cure who has disgraced his religion, the lady of fashion who has degraded her order — all these puppets being intro- duced by a marvellously clever little devil, himself a puppet too, whose antics delighted the beholders beyond measure. Then came what I suppose was an allegorical piece of business, Time rowing Cupid across the Styx; but in an instant the proceeding is reversed, and Time is rowed back with haste. I presume this meant that the blind god is not to be got rid of even by Time, being immortal, as we have always under- stood him to be. Whether or no such an exhibition is moral, and calculated to improve the mind, I decline to say ; but at any rate it was very droll indeed. After this, attracted by a very clever wind-inflated figure of Punch, I paid my two sous and entered in. This was a somewhat disappointing exhibition, con- sisting of three dozen monkeys of different sizes, passing through a doll's house, on which was written "Hotel des Singes,". or huddling and gibbering in the corner. After this I was specially attracted by a show entitled te Le Bagne." In the front were two life-sized automatic figures, representing convicts, clothed in the . A WINTER FAIR AT BOULOGNE. 209 prison garb, monotonously grinding the air, represent- ing the travaux forces of the Bagne ; whilst the face of one hideous criminal peeped through the iron bars, moving his mouth mechanically. Then I entered this veritable chamber of horrors, amidst the fanfare of trumpets, the rattle of drums, and the peals of the rich-toned hand-organ. In this exhibition I was again doomed to be disappointed — it was all glare, glitter, tinsel, and horror outside ; but within it was merely a representation by puppets, moving mechanically, showing life in a prison. Then followed games of chance, and I plunged into tombolas, lotteries, and drawings for prizes madly, though never staking more than two sous at a time, and rarely winning one of the many glittering prizes offered to the gamester. More fortunate were the matelotes, who bore off gilded vases, figures of shepherds and shepherdesses, packets of bonbons, toys, or whatever fell to their lot. All was mirth, joviality, good-temper, and pleasantry ; not a harsh word or coarse expression, and, above all, not a sign of intoxication amongst the many revellers at the Foire de St. Martin. A great desire being evinced on the part of two of the ladies who were idling at Boulogne to be photographed in the costume of the matelotes — a thing which is of daily occurrence when the town is thronged with visitors — we proceeded to the home, in the Quartier de la Marine, of the once famous Caroline, La Belle Ecaillere, and Queen of the Halle au Poisson, in order to borrow costumes for the occasion. Entering into the beautifully kept house, we were met by the granddaughter of the noted beauty of bygone days — a lovely girl of sweet seven- teen, fair, with light-brown wavy hair, blue eyes, an o 210 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. exquisite figure, and small, beautifully-shaped hands and feet, after the fashion of matelotes in general, who are remarkable for those essentials to beauty of form. The costume of this fascinating demoiselle was, as well as I can describe it, composed of a brown jacket (showing her graceful figure to the greatest advantage), a corsage, gray shawl artistically arranged, a red petti- coat with a blue tablier, gray worsted stockings, and patins, or wooden shoes. The walls were decorated with pictures ; on the mantelshelf were the figure of the Virgin and a cross; on the chest of drawers a group of artificial flowers ; and in one corner of the room the state-bed, with its blue curtains lined with lace, and a snow-white covering, not by any means for use, being little more than three feet in length, but an essential article of furniture in all houses of this class. With the greatest courtesy and kindness, not only the requisite articles of costume were offered, but the massive golden earrings and chains were most readily lent — articles of jewellery which always form conspicuous ornaments on the persons of les belles matelotes. CHAPTEE XXVI. PICCADILLY. " FLED now the sullen murmurs of the North, The splendid raiment of the Spring peeps forth," Was the observant remark of tlie " Farmer's Boy " in the good old times when seasons came in regular rotation, and things atmospheric were much less mixed up than they are nowadays. For the last two or even three years the " Kosy-bosomed Spring/' the beauties of which were the theme of the poet and the study of the painter, and whose advent was ushered in with garlands gay and posies gathered in the woodlands wild, on the first day of the " merrie montn of May/' was, to speak in racing parlance, " nowhere." It was not merely a case of " Winter lingering in the lap of Spring/' for in truth it fairly sat down upon it, and the result was disastrous in the extreme. The meets of the Four-in-Hand and Coaching Clubs, the pleasant gatherings at Sandown, the Orleans and Eanelagh Clubs, the aristocratic meetings at Hurlingham, the enjoyable rides " down the road " on the well-appointed modern stage-coaches, polo, cricket-matches, lawn-tennis parties, all were signal failures, and the result vanity and vexation of spirit. o 2 212 ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. Never a rift in the clouds was observed, not a gleam of sunshine to gladden the heart; how then was it possible for the youthful beauty, looking forward to a successful debut, to exhibit her unrivalled figure, ex- quisitely designed costume, and faultless chaussure to advantage, when what should have been velvet lawns were stagnant swamps, and leafy groves but damp and dripping woods ? whilst the ceaseless patter of the envious rain compelled even the bravest wearer of the most lovely and irreproachable toilet to conceal its beauties within the folds of a comfortable but ungraceful ulster. However, in this year of grace a somewhat better state of things prevails, for at length we are favoured with sunshine and fair weather, and the business of the season commences in earnest. Desiring to survey mankind, not from China to Peru, but over the more limited area extending from Piccadilly to the Park — where, by-the-way, you will see many more of the notable personages of the world than you would in the more widely extended prospect — I proceeded at an early hour of the morning to the Bath Hotel, Piccadilly, which admirable and pleasant hostelry is well known to a number of our country squires, who year after year locate themselves in the comfortable establishment at the corner of Arlington Street, the pivot on which the world — the fashionable world, I mean — revolves, and, seated at the commanding windows of the hotel, see a vast deal of life without any undue exertion. Previously to crossing over to the noted White Horse Cellars, for the purpose of witnessing the departure of the stage- coaches of the period, which start from thence daily on their admirably selected routes, it was advisable to PICCADILLY. 213 order breakfast — an important measure — for unless you commence the day well, how can you expect to conclude it satisfactorily ? " Waiter ! cutlets of Severn salmon plain, slices of ham carefully broiled, plovers' eggs, coffee and curacoa at 11.30." "Yes, sir! Any- thing more, sir ? " " No — that is to say, you may throw in a leg of a spring chicken — devilled, of course/' " Yes, sir ! any wine, sir ? " and that question set me thinking — there- are some people who hold that the proper time to take champagne is mid- day. I would not for the world attempt to bias others by giving an opinion, and I prefer leaving the matter to local option, lest I should appear to be interfering with freedom of opinion. " Well, yes," was my reply, " a bottle of old Pommery — the same as I had at dinner the other day." Then the cheery winding of a well-blown horn announced the coming of the Windsor coach, which starts at 10.30 daily (Sundays excepted) from Hatchett's, travelling via Richmond, Twickenham, Hampton Court, over Staines Bridge, to the well-known White Hart Hotel. Weather per- mitting, this coach invariably starts with a good load, and is admirably horsed, as well as cleverly, carefully, and punctually tooled over the pleasant line of road, by its experienced proprietor, Mr. H. Bailey, by whose side I have enjoyed an agreeable ride on several occasions. Having taken up its load, the Windsor coach moves off, and quickly disappears down Piccadilly. By this time there is a crowd of lookers-on assembled to witness the coming and going of the stages — some mere idlers, some old, time-worn, horsey-looking men, whose apparel oft proclaims the man to have been at one time or other connected with the road. Then you may observe 21* ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS. some of the staunch supporters of coaching, such as Colonel Tyrrwhit, Sir Henry de Bathe, Major Dixon, Captain Hargreaves, Dr. Hurman, etc., and some would-be patrons of the art of coachmanship, who assume a knowledge if they have it not. Then follows the " Old Times/' described in the advertisements as being a fast four-horse coach, running all the year round to Virginia Water, by way of Richmond, Bushey Park, Hampton, Shepperton, and Chertsey, starting at 10.45 A.M., and arriving at 1.30 P.M., leaving again at 3.40 P.M., thus allowing a little over two hours for a capital luncheon at The Wheatsheaf, and a saunter amidst the pleasant scenery in the vicinity. This day the coach is worked by "Selby," whose skill as a workman on the bench stands in high repute. After the departure of the " Old Times," the enlivening tones of the horn are again heard, and from different directions are seen approaching the ft New Times/' of which Mr. Walter Shoolbred is now the sole proprietor, and the "Defiance," the property of Mr. Carleton Blythe, and worked solely by him throughout the whole of the long journey — via Tunbridge Wells to Brighton. This, though a large venture, requiring over sixty horses to cover the ground extending over a distance of 72 J miles, is nothing to his performance of last year, when he worked his coach from Oxford, through London, to Cambridge, making 120 miles in all. Admirably appointed, capitally horsed, and well coached by the proprietor, assisted by Fownes, is the " Defiance/' and it starts from Hatchett's sharp to time, the four spicy chestnuts going merrily along Piccadilly on its downward journey. The "New Times/' which does the pleasant journey through a PICCADILLY. 215 beautiful line of country to Guildford, is also an admirably appointed coach, capitally turned out, well horsed, and driven in first-rate style, with the strictest attention to punctuality, by its clever coachman, Mr. Shoolbred. The coaches running from The Cellars are fewer than usual this year. No doubt the dismal seasons of the past two or three years discouraged the proprietors, who found small returns and little profit in the wet times they experienced, and it is to be feared that when the well-known Messrs. Banks have made up the books the balance will be found on the wrong side. As there was nothing more to be seen until 5 o'clock, when Mr, Robinson's coach leaves for Thames Ditton and Chertsey — a journey which I strongly recommend to anyone who wishes to enjoy a good time and to travel in first-rate style over a pleasant road, passing through Kew, Richmond, and Bushey Park — then to breakfast with what appetite we may; after which, lighting a cigar and reclining in a comfortable arm- chair, I note from the windows of these apartments a host of performers in the lively drama of life ; with Pride in their port, defiance in their eye, I see the lords of human kind pass by, to use Goldsmith's well-known lines; and, what interests me far more, many a lady fair, concerning whom the poet observes, As for the women, though we scorn and flout 'em, We may live with, but cannot live without Jem. Well, I think Dryden was right when he enunciated that opinion, for undoubtedly it would have been a trifle dull had not Eve and her descendants appeared 216 ON TEE GRAMPIAN HILLS. on the stage to play tlie role of companions in our hours of ease, and ministering angels at appropriate times and seasons. Then crossing over from Charles Street, I see that kindly and popular peer, Lord Rowton, whose honours, so well deserved and gracefully bestowed, not even the most envious of his opponents can begrudge, for it may be said with truth, " Nothing becomes him ill that he would well." Then passes Lord Cork, whose reappointment as Master of the Buckhounds will be hailed with delight by many who hunt with the " Queen's ; " and though his ways — political, I mean — are not my ways, yet I will willingly follow so genial a leader when he goes a rattler across a good line of country at the tail of the Royal Hounds. Then next passes a thoroughly well-appointed brougham, drawn by a -pair of stylish, high- stepping horses, driven by the stateliest of coachmen, who is conveying one of the house of Rothschild to the City, not on pleasure, but on business bent. When I see that grave retainer going on his daily journey eastward, I always imagine that during the interval between his arrival and departure he fills some high fiduciary post in that wonderful establishment, so thoroughly business-like and reliable does he look. By-the-way, he once did me a service unwittingly, for, having occasion to meet ' ( a party in the City " in reference to a monetary arrangement — a bill at three months, if my memory serves me — I passed down St. Swithin's Lane when this equipage was standing at the corner of New Court, and being recognised by the staid charioteer with a respectful touch of his hat, my capitalist, who up to this time had appeared somewhat indisposed to entertain my PICCADILLY. 217 proposition, at once, on witnessing the recognition, fell in with my views, and passing into his office quickly drew upon me; I promptly accepted; a friend, merely as a matter of form, " jumped up be- hind," then there was at once a mercantile and negotiable instrument which, if I remember rightly, was not provided for when it came to maturity, and consequently had to be renewed. Leisurely passing along Piccadilly I see the member for Brecknock, and the constituency of this borough are to be congratu- lated at having secured so thorough a gentleman as Mr. Cyril Flower to represent them in Parliament. Then going in the direction of Apsley House I observe a park-phaeton, drawn by two matchless black cobs, with grand action, and in blooming condition, marvel- lously well driven by a young lady, whose radiant face beams with pleasure and delight as she threads her way confidently through the crowd of vehicles; the servant who sits behind appearing to be fully im- pressed with the responsibility of being entrusted with the care of the hope and the pride of the family he serves. By this time I had finished my cigar; and speaking of smoking reminds me of an anecdote of Keeley, whom I met at a garden-party at the close of his career. Having been requested by our host to ascertain if he had everything he required, I asked amongst other questions whether he had a good cigar. " Yes, sir/' he replied, " I have got a good cigar, but it has got one fault." "Pray tell me what it is," I said, "that I may rectify it." ), Author of " Tally-Ho ! " &c. " Tt is just the book for a country -house snioking-room, and is sure to prove a favourite."— World. " Remarkable for their freshness and vigour."— Court Journal. A Day with the Baron, The Four-in-Hand Cluh, A Year's Coachings, A Forest Run with "The Queen's," Hunting the Wild Bed Deer, The Royal Buckhounds, A Pink "Wedding ; Melton, its Manners and Customs ; &c. TALLY-HO ! Sketches of Hunting, Coaching, &c. By FRED. FIELD WHITEHURST ("A Veteran"). " The sketches are full of life and spirit, and we doubt not lovers of the chase will be glad to read a description of the famous runs recorded in the present volume." — Court Journal. " Many a hard rider will recognise in these pages a faithful picture of runs in which he has himself figured with distinction.'"— Man of the World. " A very agreeable book, calculated to be a good companion to hunting-men."— Sporting Gazette. TINSLEY BROTHERS, 8, CATHERINE STREET, STRAND. 262 NEW BOOKS FOR THE SEASON. ON THE GRAMPIAN HILLS : Grouse and Ptarmigan Shooting, Deer Stalking, Salmon and Trout Fishing, &c. By FRED. FIELD WHITEHURST ("A Veteran"), Author of " Tally -Ho! " "Harkaway." 1vol. 9s. ROAD SCRAPINGS: Coaches and Coaching. By MARTIN E. HAWORTH, late Captain 60th Eifles, Queen's Foreign Service Messenger, M.F.H., &c., Author of " The Silver Greyhound." 1 vol. 8vo. With 12 Coloured Illustrations. 10s. 6d. MEN WE MEET IN THE FIELD ; or, The Bullshire Hounds. By A. Sketches in Three Hounds. By A. G. BAGOT ("Bagatelle"), Author of "Sporting in Three Continents," &c. 1 vol. 7s. 6d. TALES AND TRADITIONS OF SWITZERLAND. By WILLIAM WESTALL, Author of " Larry Lohengrin," " The Old Factory," &c. 1 vol. crown 8vo. 10s. 6d. NEW WORKS OF TRAVEL. WITH A SHOW THROUGH SOUTHERN AFRICA, and Personal Reminiscences of the Transvaal War. By CHARLES DU VAL, late of the Carabineers, Attache to the Staff of Garrison Com- mandant, and Editor of the News of the Camp during the investment of Pretoria. 1 vol. demy 8vo. With numerous Illustrations. PALMS AND TEMPLES: Incidents of a Four Months' Voyage on the Nile. With Notes upon the Antiquities, Scenery, People, and Sport of Egypt. By JULIAN B. ARNOLD. Prefatory Notice by EDWIN ARNOLD, Author of "The Light of Asia," &c. 1 vol. demy 8vo. With Frontispiece and Vignette. 12s. AMONG THE SONS OF HAN: Notes of a Six Years' Residence in China and Formosa. By Mrs. T. F. HUGHES. I vol. demy 8vo. With Map. 12s. KEANE'S JOURNEYS TO MECCAH % MEDINAH. Each in 1 vol. demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. TINSLEY BROTHERS, 8, CATHERINE STREET, STRAND. "gOLDLAGK" CHAMPAGNE, SHIPPED BY DEUTZ & GELDERMANN. THE WINE FOR PRINCES AND SENATORS. THE district of Ay has become probably the most celebrated in the ancient province of Champagne for its grapes, and among the famous brands of that famed region, not one has gained a popularity to a greater extent in this country than that of DEUTZ & GELDERMANN. The Wine of this well-known firm is invariably met with on every important occasion, and it is noticed that DEUTZ & GELDERMANN Js " Gold Lack " was specially selected for the Banquet given by the Royal Naval Club at Portsmouth to H. K. H. the Prince of Wales^ and some proof of its excellence may be gathered from the fact that this brand was drunk on a former visit of the Prince to the club two years since. DEUTZ & GELDERMANN' s "Gold Lack" was one of the Champagnes supplied at the late Ministerial Whitebait dinner at the Trafalgar. — Morning Post. The "GOLD LACK," Sec or Extra Sec, can be obtained from all Wine Merchants. H YB 10258 12310039 •••••MHMMHI