BRALTAR /HOWARD IRBY, F.L.S. BIOLOGY LIBRARY THE ATHENJEUM N° 3595, SEPT. 19, '96 SCIENCE The Ornithology of the Straits of Gibraltar. By Lieut. - Col. L. Howard L. Irby. Second Edition. (Porter.) UNDER the above title, rather more than twenty years ago, Col. Irby produced a modest little octavo volume which at once secured a high position in ornithological literature. It treated of the natural history of the north - western portion of Morocco, from Tangier southwards to a little beyond Larache, and for about twelve miles inland, beyond which excursions were in those days difficult, not to say dangerous ; while on the Spanish side the area embraced was far wider, comprising the country between Cadiz, Gibraltar, Malaga, Granada, Cordova, Seville, and down the Guadalquivir to the great marshy delta of that river. Birds, their habits and nidification, with the dates of arrival and departure in the case of migrants — the results of several years' experience — formed the principal feature; but there was a great deal of valuable information about mammals, reptiles, and other subjects in the work, and it became a handbook for the naturalist traveller in the South as much as the book of reference for the student at home. Almost coincidently with its publication Col. Irby retired from the 74th Highlanders, but he by no means forgot the fascinating country with which his name will always be identified, and he subsequently devoted considerable portions of the next twenty years to revisiting his former haunts as well as exploring new districts. In doing this he consorted with, and availed himself of the experience of, many kindred spirits, such as Major Wil- loughby Yerner (one of the most daring of cragsmen), Capt. E. Savile Eeid, late E.E., Mr. A. C. Stark, and" others, wnose notes are now added to his own. The result is that, instead of the little octavo of 1875, we have a handsome quarto, with beautiful coloured jpjates in_Mr_A. Thorburn's best style from birds living in Lord LilforaTs'^avTaries'near Oundle, as well as numerous illustrations of scenery from sketches and photographs. Much new and valuable information has been added, and the list of birds is raised from 335 to 369, while a feature of the pre- sent volume is the short diagnosis of each species on the lines adopted by the author in his useful • Key to British Birds,' which was noticed in these columns some time ago. Two maps and, it is almost unneces- sary to say, an adequate index are to be found in both editions. Owing to its position in close proximity \ to Africa, Spain — or let us say the Iberian ~ Peninsula, to avoid offence to our Portuguese friends — is probably the most interesting country in Europe as regards its fauna. In the south, which immediately concerns us, there is an ichneumon (Herpestes) almost, if not absolutely, identical with the Numidian species ; the lynx is peculiar, and has just a flavour of the African serval ; the red deer of the north comes down to the pine- clad shores of the Mediterranean, while the ibex from the mountain ledges looks down upon its blue waters — and there they stop ; there is no sign of them in North Africa. As for the bear, there is no trace of it in historic times to the south of Madrid, while the chamois (izard) is not found below the Pyrenees and the Cantabrian range ; but otherwise the main continental fauna is well represented. Even among birds, in spite of their powers of flight, there are some re- markable features and irregularities in dis- tribution. There is an indigenous Iberian short-toed lark, quite different from the ordinary species of the rest of Europe, though barely distinguishable from an inhabitant of North Africa ; there is a larger lark with a decurved bill belonging to an African, and almost a Saharan, group ; the Iberian green woodpecker differs from, that of all the rest of Europe ; and there is a fine white-shouldered eagle, the repre- sentative of the Eastern imperial eagle, which is barely known this side of Italy. For the nearest relative of the beautiful Iberian azure - winged magpie ( Cyanopica cooki} all Europe and the greater part of Asia must be crossed, until South- Eastern Siberia and China are reached. Our familiar pie is found throughout Spain down to the woods of the Guadalquivir; but in the mountainous districts of the Alpuj arras and on the skirts of the Sierra Nevada the magpies become dark, and exhibit decided affinities with a North African species. The Spanish grey shrike is virtually confined to the Peninsula, where its range extends to the extreme southern shores ; yet the bird never crosses the in- tervening ten or twelve miles to Africa, nor does its representative there — a species which only a naturalist can distinguish — ever invade Spain. An orange - eating bulbul (Pycnonotus) is found at Tangier, but never crosses the Straits to the land which is said to be "famous for oranges and pretty women." The buff - backed heron (the representative of the Eastern "paddy-bird") breeds freely in the south of Spain, but the rest of Europe hardly knows it,' even in swamps apparently the most suitable, and to find it again we must visit North Africa. The little three- toed quail is another African species found breeding locally in the palmetto (Chamserops) scrub of Andalucia, and also near Grirgenti, where Sicily is almost in sight of Tunisia ; nowhere else in Europe. These are only a few of the points which occur to us, and it may be imagined that the natural history of a country which presents these paradoxes is worth writing about. In a book which deals with facts set down in the most straightforward manner it is not easy to find passages suitable for quota- tion, for even Major Verner's feats on the cliffs and his narrow escapes when visiting the nests of eagles and vultures are not fully described here. The nests were in such and such a place, of such materials, and contained so many eggs on such a date ; but there is nothing to make your flesh creep. We notice that the experiences of all the contributors to this work are to the effect that the bearded vulture — often called Liimmergeier — is simply a scavenger, and never attempts to touch kids, lambs, or indeed any living mammal. It is much if the maligned bird occasionally takes a snake or a lizard, though it certainly does pick up small tortoises (as it does bones) and drop them on the rocks to break them : a per- formance which is said to have caused the death of /Eschylus, and the tradition of which once saved the life of a bearded vulture. Turning to smaller birds, there is a novel and interesting description of the nesting habits of the handsome black wheatear, a lively sooty bird with a white rump, which is locally known as pedrero, from its habit of building founda- tions of small stones, and even a wall or screen in front of its nest. One of these barriers — of which an illustration is given — was 9 in. long, the same in width, 2£ in. high, and consisted of 282 stones, while the foundation contained 76 more, the total weight of the stones being 4£lb. Then there are some valuable bits of in- formation respecting the names of birds, illustrating Arab superstitions, as in the passage referring to the white owl — which is too long to quote — and that on the lap- wing. We always wondered why the latter bore the trivial name Judia in Spain (El Thudi in Morocco), but it appears that " the superstitious Arabs believe that these birds are Jews changed into the shape of birds, and also believe that they retain all their Israelitish characteristics, even wear- ing the black Hebrew skull-cap." And with this we close our notice, having, we trust, said enough to show that a book, although technical, is not necessarily dry. BEARDED VULTURE. Gypaetus barbatus. ad. Litho. W. Greve, Berlin. THE ORNITHOLOGY OF THE STBAITS OF GIBRALTAR BY LIEUT.-COLONEL L. HOWARD L. IRBY, F.L.S., // LATE SF.VENTY-FOt'RTH HIGHLANDERS. SECOND EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. WITH AN APPENDIX COKTAIKIKG A LIST OF THE LEPIDOPTEEA OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD. FLUMINA AMO SYLVASQUE INGLORIUS. LONDON: R. H. PORTER, 18 PRINCES STREET, CAVENDISH SQUARE. 1895. PRINTED BY TAYLOR AND FRANCIS, RED LION COURT, FLEET STREET. CONTENTS. Page LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS v INTRODUCTION APPENDIX 311 INDEX TO BIRDS 811998 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. FULL-PAGE PLATES. Page Bearded Vulture. Thorburn Frontispiece Blue-winged Magpie. Thorburn To face 83 Black or Cinereous * Vulture. Thorburn „ 146 Golden Eagle. Thorburn „ 171 White-shouldered Eagle. Thorburn * „ 173 Descent to Nest of Bonelli's Eagle. Smit, after Verner • • 175 Interior of Cavern with Nest of Bonelli's Eagle. Smit, after Verner .... „ 177 Booted Eagle. Thorburn „ 181 Mediterranean Peregrine. Thorburn „ 191 The First Rise of the Grey-lags, Laguna de la Janda. Smit, after Verner „ 217 European Bush-Quail. Thorburn „ . 241 Bustard-Driving. Smit, after Verner „ 255 A Deep Place in the Malabrigo Soto. Smit, after W. F. , 279 Whiskered Terns at Home. Smit, after Verner „ 293 ILLTTSTHATIONS PRINTED IN THE TEXT. NOTE THE Illustrations printed in the text (excepting the two diagrams of Bird) are from photographs taken by Major Willoughby Verner, Rifle Brigade, of places visited by the Author in 1894. ,.. r > HTTTne enu or voitnne. Map of Morocco \ * Misspelt " Ciiierous '' on Plate. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. FULL-PAGE PLATES. Page Bearded Vulture. Thorburn Frontispiece Blue-winged Magpie. Thorburn To face 83 Black or Cinereous * Vulture. Thorburn „ 145 Golden Eagle. Thorburn „ 171 White-shouldered Eagle. Thorburn ^ „ 173 Descent to Nest of Bonelli's Eagle. Smit, after Verner „ 175 Interior of Cavern with Nest of Bonelli's Eagle. Smit, after Verner .... „ 177 Booted Eagle. Thorburn „ 181 Mediterranean Peregrine. Thorburn „ 191 The First Kise of the Grey-lags, Laguna de la Janda. Smit, after Verner „ 217 European Bush-Quail. Thorburn „ 241 Bustard-Driving. Smit, after Verner „ 255 A Deep Place in the Malabrigo Soto. Smit, after W. F. „ 279 Whiskered Terns at Home. Smit, after Verner „ 293 ILLUSTEATIONS PBINTED IN THE TEXT. Diagram of Bird vi Diagram of Inner side of Wing vii Terrace on the north side of San Bartolome" 28 El Organo, near Tarifa 30 Peasantry, Tapatanilla 32 Laja del Ciscar 33 Nest of the Black Wheatear 42 Nest and Egg of Griffon 148 Cave with Griffons' Nests 150 Young Griffon in Cavern 150 Nest of Neophron, showing Crag 153 „ „ nearer View 153 Nesting-place of Neophron 155 Nest of Bearded Vulture 157 v » „ 160 „ „ „ near View 160 Nest of White-shouldered Eagle 172 Laja de la Zarga, Nesting-place of Bonelli's Eagle and Griffons 176 Nest of Snake-Eagle in Cork-tree 183 Another Nest of Snake-Eagle in Cork-tree 183 Laja del Ciscar 310 Map of South-western Andalucia 1 at the end of Volume. Map of Morocco . , Misspelt " Cinerous " on Plate. Lores Ear-fouerts \ Forehead ', \ roreneaa » f "*• \ I ...I./ .""" v-j-evow/.^/^--..^ \i— *~~~~>/' "x ..Nape .Upper Back Lower Bach Diagram, of a Bird, TO ILLUSTRATE THE TEKMINOLOGY OF THE PLUMAGE. ORNITHOLOGY OF THE STRAITS OF GIBRALTAR. INTRODUCTION. THE list of birds and ornithological notes contained in this book are compiled from observations made on both sides of the Straits of Gibraltar — on the African side within a region extending from Tangier southwards to the lakes of Has el Doura, beyond Larache, and eastward from Tangier to Tetuan and Ceuta, not reaching inland more than ten or twelve miles ; on the European side is included that part of Andalucia which would be bounded by an imaginary line drawn from Gibraltar to Malaga, thence to Granada, Cordova, and Seville, along the delta of the Guadalquivir to Cadiz. Nearly all the information relating to the birds of the Spanish side of the Straits is collected from personal observations made during a more or less prolonged stay at the Rock, between February 1868 and May 1872, and again from February to May 1874, but including during this time only one summer period, viz. July, August, and the first half of September. For the first three years of my residence at Gibraltar I was quartered with my regiment, the remaining time being passed B 2 INTRODUCTION. there chiefly with a view to ornithological pursuits, from time to time making excursions, generally of about a fortnight's duration, to some part or other within the districts above mentioned, but chiefly confining my attentions jto the country within a day's journey of Gibraltar. The observations on the Moorish birds are in a great measure culled from the MS. of the late M. F. Favier, a French collector well known to the ornithological world, who, after a residence ** * * •£•„• of about thirty-one years at Tangier, died there in 1867. I "; was informed that he had left a MS. written in French, containing his notes on birds ; but was not permitted by the owner to do more than glance at it, although he offered it for sale at what seemed to me a very exorbitant price. Fearing to lose a book which might prove of considerable utility in the pursuit of my favourite science, I yielded to his demands and secured the coveted prize, but found upon perusal, amidst a mass of bad grammar, bad spelling, and worse writing, which cost many hours to decipher, that it did not contain so much information as there was reason to anticipate, a good deal of the matter having been copied from other authors. However, there was some grain among all this chaff; and such facts and details as are considered worth recording are given below with Favier's name attached, and supplemented by my own observations in Morocco. These notes are kept separate from those referring to the Spanish side of the Straits. This little work is, it may be distinctly understood, not intended to give any special information to scientific ornitho- logists, but is published with the view of assisting with trust- worthy information any amateur collectors who visit South- western Europe ; and it is hoped especially that it may be useful to officers who, like the \vriter, may find themselves quartered at Gibraltar. For it admits of little doubt that the study of Natural History will always help to pass away with pleasure many hours that would otherwise be weary and tedious LITERATUKE. 3 during the time military men may have to " put in " at dear, scorching old " Gib." There is ample room, for any one with energy, to work out a great deal more information on the birds of the Straits ; but it must be remembered that little can be done in hasty visits of two or three months, or by comparing skins secured by assistants, called " collectors," who know nothing of the habits of the birds they send to those who employ them, and upon whose veracity even as to locality the employer cannot implicitly depend. It may be as well to notice such papers &c. as have been published hitherto relating to the ornithology of the district of the Straits. Dismissing the Spanish lists as meagre and full of errors, we commence with the papers written by Lord Lilford in 'The Ibis' for 1865 (p. 166) and 1866 (pp. 173 & 377). In addition to the interesting facts they contain, these essays are the first which give any reliable information on the subject, and lay, as it were, the foundation of all the work that has since been done with regard to Spanish ornithology. Since then Mr. Howard Saunders has written, also in ' The Ibis' (1871, pp. 54, 205, & 384), a " List of the Birds of Southern Spain," extending as far eastward as Minorca and as far to the north as the fortieth degree of latitude, thus comprising a very large area. He has also contributed some other papers to 'The Ibis' (1869, pp. 170 & 391), which, altered and considerably enlarged, have appeared in ' The Field ' under the head of " Ornithological Kambles in Southern Spain." On the African side, Mr. G. W. H. Drummond Hay (Proceedings Zool. Society, 1840, p. 133) gave a list of birds noticed by him at Tangier, but only fifty-five in number, while Mr. Tyrwhitt-Drake wrote a list of the birds observed by him in Tangier and Eastern Morocco (Ibis, 1867, p. 421) ; and a " List of Birds seen near Tangier " appeared in ' Naumannia, but only a list, and not a very accurate one. B2 4 INTRODUCTION. Lists of birds, generally speaking, have very few dates appended; the exact localities where a species may be found are seldom indicated ; the period.- of migration is also not often stated. "Breeds plentifully," " appears in winter," "a regular visitant," " abundant in spring," — such are usually the vague remarks given with each species. Many of the ornithological papers in periodicals and journals are written up from one or two passing visits, often very short ones ; and some of the writers possess a power of vision truly astonishing. They see a bird in the distance, imagine it to belong to a certain species, at last believe it to be such, and end by placing the name in their note-book, to appear in due time in print. The only way to avoid such errors is never to include any bird in a list except when actually obtained and identified. It often happens, also, that the bird seen and included is one which it would be quite impossible to distinguish from another closely allied species without handling them both. These remarks may, no doubt, appear very invidious ; but it is want of accuracy in such matters which renders utterly futile any attempt to make out the distribution of birds. Local names, often trivial and unimportant, must generally be accepted cum grano salis ; for, unless long resident and conversant with the language of the country, the compiler is apt to fall into the same class of errors as those of the celebrated Count Smorltork, who would probably have written the English name of the Curlew according to the story told of a gunner in the Eastern Counties, who, when asked by a portly old citizen, " What do you call those birds I " replied, " Bless you, Curlews we generally calls 'em ; but when we're vexed with 'em, we calls 'em beggars." These vernacular names are most useful, of course, in the case of the more common species, and in Andalucia are, in many instances, of Arabic derivation, relics of the Moorish occupation and of days when under their VERNACULAR NAMES. 5 rule Spain was flourishing, when all that is 'worth seeing was built, all that is artificially good being remnants of the work of the then industrious Moors. Where are the latter now as a nation 1 As a proof of the inaccuracy of local nomenclature, a single name is often applied to several species, sometimes not even belonging to the same genus. Thus Aguila, Aguiluclio, according to the ideas of the individual, may be any of the Diurnal Accipitres, from a Lammergeyer to a Lesser Kestrel ; and they are even occasionally used to designate the Raven ! ! So Bvjo applies to all Owls, Culiblanco to all Wheatears ; Chorlito, the real name of the Golden Plover, is used for various Waders ; while Pitillo, Frailecillo, Andarios, Correrios are indefinite names applicable to any small Waders and some larger ones. Pito real near Gibraltar is Picas major, our Great Spotted Woodpecker ; near Seville it is Gecinus Sharpti, the representative of our English Green Woodpecker ( G. viridis). Carpintero in Central Spain, according to Lord Lilford, is Picus major ; near Gibraltar it is the Great Titmouse (Parus major]. Lavandera, or " washerwoman," according to localities is either a Wagtail or a Green Sandpiper. Quebrantahuesos, " bone-breaker," properly applies to the Lammergeyer ; but where that species is absent it is usurped by the Neophron. These, among other instances, prove local names to be only an assistance, and not always to be taken to signify the bird to which they are affixed. On the other hand, some names are distinctive, as Alejaruco, Bee-eater ; Abubilla, Hoopoe ; Abujeta, Godwit ; Alcaravan, Stone-Curlew, &c. The Moorish Arabic names are for the most part copied from Favier's MS. ; but none are quoted unless corroborated by reference to natives of the localities in which the birds were shot. It may be further added that, as it is a matter of considerable difficulty to express Arabic words by English 6 . INTRODUCTION. letters, in this work a mere approximation to the sound is attempted to be given. In the interest of the sportsman and the amateur collector of specimens, it has been endeavoured to give a few hints as to the localities where each may best gratify his tastes ; but it would be foreign to the purpose and inapplicable to the limits of this work to reproduce any of the varied information which is to be found in the pages of Ford and other guide- books. In the country districts of Spain, and especially throughout Andalucia, nothing ever changes except the Government. The country is still the Spain of Ford, we might almost say of Don Quixote, and will probably remain so for centuries, except as regards the power of the priesthood, which is gradually waning and will doubtless soon cease to exist. In a general sense, travelling in Morocco is attended with more expense and less comfort than in Spain. The total absence of inns in the former country (except one or two at Tangier and a few coast-towns) renders it necessary for the European traveller to carry about not only a tent but a good deal of extra baggage, cooking-appliances, &c., which would otherwise be superfluous. The impedimenta are transported on the backs of mules, which, may be hired at the rate of one dollar per diem. One or two Moors must also be taken to pitch tents, load and unload the pack-animals, and so make themselves generally useful, which they always do. They were usually paid one and sixpence a day each. The only provisions which can be procured at the country villages consist of fowls, eggs, butter, milk, and kuskoo-soo; the latter is a peculiar preparation of flour, and may be considered the national dish of Morocco. It is therefore advisable for a party travelling in the interior to provide themselves with some tins of preserved meat and vegetables, as well as with whatever wine, spirits, &c. they might require. The most satisfactory way of making an expedition through the country, I have found by experience, - MOROCCO. 7 is to contract with a respectable Moor, who will -usually defray the entire expenses, including hire of baggage, animals, servants, cook, and meals, exclusive of wine, at the rate of five dollars a head per diem. As far as I have had opportunities of judging, I have reason to consider travelling in Morocco to be unattended with any danger near the coast, but not east of Tetuan, in the Riff country, or in mountainous districts ; and to Englishmen the natives are certainly better inclined than to any other European nation. The late Sultan, however, issued an edict to the effect that he would not hold himself responsible for the life or property of any Christian who at the time of any outrage should be unattended by a Moorish soldier ; and a mounted soldier to act as guard can always be procured on application to the Consul of the nation to which the applicant belongs. Any party intending to make an expedition further than ten or fifteen miles from Tangier should provide themselves with this necessary functionary, to whom they must pay one dollar a day. This sum is generally considered to be exorbitant ; and it certainly is so in a country where the necessaries of life are far cheaper than in any country in Europe. The real truth, however, is that the Moorish authorities throw as many diffi- culties as they possibly can in the way of inquisitive European travellers, well knowing that, were the interior thoroughly opened up, the vile system of oppression and misgovernment to which it is and has been for so long a victim would vanish before the opinion of the civilized world. The vicinity of Tangier is as good a ground for the ornitho- logist as can be wished anywhere ; but it has been a great deal worked up by Olcese, who succeeded Favier as the naturalist of Tangier. About twelve miles to the south are the lakes of Sharf el Akab, well worth visiting for aquatic birds. The country beyond this to Larache is not good until within the neighbour- hood of that town, where there is plenty of both marshy and 8 INTRODUCTION. dry ground, the latter, in places, better wooded than usual. Near Larache, on the north bank of the river, are the ruins of the ancient Lixus, at or near the spot where Hercules is supposed to have conquered Antaeus, the founder of Tangier, which takes its name from his wife Tinga. South of Larache are the lakes of Meshree el Haddar (the talkers' ford) and Has el Doura, the latter running for miles southwards in the direction of Rabat. These lakes swarm with every kind of aquatic bird, according to the season ; but in the breeding-time the mosquitoes are enough to drive any European away, besides which the nests are so plundered by the Arabs that it is hardly worth while going there for them. Further south than this I have not been, and refer my readers for any information to Mr. Drake's paper in ' The Ibis ' (I. c.). Eastward of Tangier, taking the road to Tetuan, there is little or nothing to be done in the way of birds until the latter place is reached, after a long and tedious day's journey ; indeed all that part of Morocco which I have visited is very wearisome to travel over, except near Tetuan and Ceuta, where the mountains break the sameness of the route, and where alone any true beauty of scenery is to be found. Of these hills only those in the immediate vicinity of Tetuan can be visited, owing to the lawless character of the hill tribes and their Mahometan prejudices, and, last but not least, owing also to the exaggerated stories made up to prevent any European from travelling about. In a stream from one of these mountains, to the south of Tetuan, a species of trout (Salmo macrostigma] is found ; they are also probably met with in other places, which are forbidden ground to the European. The country about Tetuan is alike interesting to the ornitho- logist and favourable to the sportsman ; about Martine are some fine marshes, while beyond Cape Negro, towards Ceuta, is a large, irregularly shaped, shallow laguna, called Esmir, with great masses of rush and sedge interspersed with tamarisk APES' HILL. 9 bushes, separated from the sea by a wide sandbank covered with brushwood ; this laguna and marshes are by far the best ground to be seen on either side of the Straits. Proceeding from Esmir, towards Ceuta, the road lies either on the shore or along the usual scrub-covered country till, turning to the left by some Roman ruins, a pass leading up to the Sierra Bullones is entered, when the scenery becomes very fine, the track ascending by the side of a bright clear stream, through bushes sometimes so thick as to completely shut out the sky overhead, at other times passing through heather, in places twenty feet high. The path becomes gradually worse, till the climax is reached in the ascent of a steep hill where the brushwood tears the load oif the mules, and with the stones and rocks nearly renders progress impossible. Once, however, at the top, a fair enough road is found leading to the village of Beut, situated in a sort of plateau at an elevation of about 1000 feet, separated from Jebel Musa by a deep valley, a high range of rocks, and another shallow valley. About here nothing, ornithologically speaking, is to be seen (excepting a few Choughs) that is not to be met with elsewhere. We found an Eagle nesting on the north face of the range south of Jebel Musa : the nest was in a most difficult position to get at ; and not being able to reach any place near enough from which to shoot the Eagle, we left the eggs as worthless, because unable to identify the bird : however there is little doubt that it was the Golden Eagle. We saw some apes about the rocks ; they were rather wild, and lost no time in making their way to the top. The view from this sierra (Apes' Hill of the English, Jebel Musa of the Moors, Sierra Bullones of the Spaniards, Abyla of the ancients) is magnificent, and baffles description, well repay- ing all the trouble and difficulties of the ascent. To the south beyond Tetuan lie, half hidden in blue mist, the snow-streaked mountains of the Atlas, stretching far away 10 INTRODUCTION. out of sight, the summit of one vast snowy pile rather to the south-east appearing to be as high, and looking quite as white, as the Sierra Nevada, near Granada, which is also distinctly visible to the north-east; but this African snowy range seems further off. Below to the east, stretched out as if on a ground- plan close to your feet, is Ceuta, with its ugly white-washed Spanish forts and towers, between which and the Tetuan river looms the gloomy headland of Cape Negro. Westward of this are range after range of comparatively low dark hills, rolling away towards Tangier and Cape Spartel, here and there one or two being topped with a few crags and rocks. Far to the west is the Atlantic, leading to the deep-blue Straits, looking, as they separate Europe and Africa, like some mountain-lake. Tarifa, to the north-west, is clearly visible, as are the crags of the Sierra de San Bartolome, the sandy cliffs of Cape Trafalgar, and the long spit of land on which is the light- house ; while all the grey, bare, barren-looking Spanish sierras look, with the sun shining on them, as if they lay within a stone's "throw. Gibraltar was shut out from our view, owing to the pleasantry of some Moors, who rolled large stones down the only path leading to the summit of the highest peak, and so prevented us from ascending. However the view we did get was such as can never be forgotten, and it was long before we descended to continue our hunt for birds. The tops of these mountains, which are 2600 feet high (the highest part of JebelMusa is about 2800 feet), were covered with thousands of violets then in full bloom. The flowers were light-coloured when growing among the stones and waterworn rocks exposed to the sun, dark when shaded and growing among the stunted bushes which were scattered about here and there : their scent was perfect. Very few other flowers were growing on the tops ; but most conspicuous among them was the Gibraltar candytuft ; and the everlasting palmetto was met with LARGE CAVE. 11 at the very highest places. The base of all "these" crags or cliffs is approached by a steep talus of small broken rocks, among which grows a very thick jungle of stunted cork- and olive-trees about 15 feet high. On the north side of the range next to Beut and at the western end of it, at the base of the cliff, is a wide cave, which, at some distance from the entrance, branches off into two distinct caves, one going up hill, the other down. My com- panion ascended the upper one till he heard in the darkness the growling of some beast, probably a lynx or some wild cat ; so he returned, and we collected together from outside a lot of dead sticks and rubbish, which we dragged up in the darkness as near the animal as we could judge to be well within range : we then set fire to it, and stood ready for a shot ; but it was no use ; the brute, whatever it was, only retired further in, growling away more than ever. The light of the fire proved the cave to be some hundred feet high, gradually narrowing to the top from the bottom, which near the entrance is about 12 feet wide, thus showing it to have been formed by two gigantic rocks or cliffs flung against one another at the time these limestone mountains were thrown up from the bottom of the sea, which in remote ages doubtless flowed over them. On both sides of the Straits, «. e. at Gibraltar and Abyla, these fissures or caves are common in the limestone ; but this particular one fairly rivals the well- known St. Michael's Cave at Gibraltar, and had, from the marks of fire, been inhabited at some not very distant period. The floor in places was quite a foot deep with the guano of Rock- Doves (Columla lima], numbers of which flew out from the nooks and crannies of the rock. As far as we could understand from the Moors, who, living near Ceuta, spoke a few words of broken Spanish, there was a story of a Moor having ascended this cave till he came out somewhere at the top of the mountain ; be this as it may, 12 INTRODUCTION. there was a fine breezy draught of air blowing downwards, which sent the smoke of our fire towards us till we, instead of the beast for whose benefit it was intended, were nearly suffocated. Having no means of getting torches to further explore the cave, with heavy hearts we left the unknown animal to growl himself to sleep ; the Moors insisted, by the way, that what we heard was a " djinn," or evil spirit! The south-east part of the range of the Sierra Bullones is a different formation, and we could trace signs of lead-ore and antimony in more than one place. Whether any mines will ever be worked in Morocco is doubtful : there is plenty of ground ; but at present it is forbidden to look for minerals by the enlightened and despotic Moorish government. The track or road from Ceuta to Tetuan, after quitting the mountainous district, passes through the interminable scrub usual to the Mediterranean coast ; and bad as are mountain tracks in Spain, this one beats them all in roughness ; and, owing to the weary sameness of going up and down hill after hill, the journey seems endless. En route, however, by the shore, nearly opposite Tarifa, lies, shrouded in large thick bushes, the ruins of Alcazar Leguer, a large old castellated Portuguese fort, built about the beginning of the fifteenth century. Some parts of the walls are in fair condition ; but the interior is very much dilapidated, and the whole overgrown with wild olive- and fig-trees, brambles and rubbish, desolation beyond description, its only tenants being Owls and (say the Moors) evil spirits. A covered way, formed by two parallel high walls with banquettes on their tops, runs down to the sea-shore, where it is broken down and blocked up with sand ; the ruins show signs of unskilful workmanship, and contrast very unfavourably with those of Roman construction, besides which, from being principally built of soft sandstone, they are much weather-worn where exposed to the rain. MIGRATION. 13 Wherever I have wandered about in the coast-districts of Morocco the country is singularly destitute of trees of any size, what few there are being in the santos or graveyards. The consequence of this is, there is no change in the landscape ; stunted bushes, rocks, and cultivation constitute the general view. Nevertheless the climate is splendid and healthy, perhaps better than that of Andalucia ; and one quits it with the regret that such a fine country should in these days of civilization be, as it were, utterly wasted — a land rich beyond most in soil, minerals, and natural advantages of all sorts, within four days of England, remaining without any real government, without roads, bridges, or any means of communication, owing to political necessities abandoned to barbarians, whose chief object seems to be to keep the country as much as possible secluded from the prying eyes of Europeans. MIGRATION, SHOOTING, &c. The migration of birds, although a most interesting subject, is yet very imperfectly understood, and reliable data from different countries and places are still greatly wanted to elucidate it. Without doubt caused by the absence or abundance of food, which in turn is caused by difference of temperature, the passage of birds in these parts begins with most species almost to a day in the spring, usually lasting for about three weeks, though some, as the Hoopoe and the Swallows, are more irregular in their first appearance ; and with these the migration lasts throughout a longer period. Few, indeed hardly any birds, do not migrate or shift their ground to some extent. I can name very few which do not appear to move, viz. Griffon Vulture, Imperial Eagle, Eagle- Owl, Blue Thrush, all the Woodpeckers, Tree-Creeper, Black- headed Warbler, Dartford Warbler, Crested Lark, Chough, Haven, Magpie, Red-legged and Barbary Partridges, and the 14 INTRODUCTION. Andalucian Quail. Generally speaking, it seems to me that in the vernal migration the males are the first to arrive, as with the Wheatears, Nightingales, Night-Herons, Bee-eaters ; but this is a theory which requires more confirmation. Some species, as the Neophron and most of the Raptores, pass in pairs. Most of the land-birds pass by day, usually crossing the Straits in the morning. The waders are, as a rule, not seen on passage ; so it may be concluded they pass by night, although occasionally Peewits, Golden Plover, Terns, and Gulls have been noticed passing by day. The autumnal or return migration is less conspicuous than the vernal: and whether the passage is performed by night, or whether birds return by some other route, or whether they pass straight on, not lingering by the way as in spring, is an open question ; but during the autumn months passed at Gibraltar I failed to notice the passage as in spring, though more than once during the month of August myself and others distinctly heard Bee-eaters passing south at night, and so conclude other birds may do the same. We have (vide Andersson's ' Birds of Damara Land,' pp. 18- 21) an account of the swarms of Hawks which appear there at the time they are absent from Europe and North Africa ; so it may be reasonably inferred with regard to one species, Milvus migrans (the Black Kite), that some of the vast numbers which pass the Straits of Gibraltar retire in autumn through the tropics to South Africa. The best site for watching the departure of the vernal migration is at Tangier, where just outside the town the well- known plain called the " Mashan," a high piece of ground that in England would be called a common, seems to be the starting-point of half the small birds that visit Europe. Both the vernal and autumnal migrations are generally executed during an easterly wind, or Levanter : at one time I SHOOTIXG. 15 thought that this was essential to the passage ; but it appears not to be the case, as whether it be an east or west wind, if it be the time for migration, birds will pass, though they linger longer on the African coast before starting should the wind be westerly ; and all the very large flights of Raptores (Kites, Neophrons, Honey-Buzzards, &c.) which I have seen passed with a Levanter. After observing the passage for five springs I- am unable to come to any decided opinion, the truth being that as an east wind is the prevalent one, the idea has been started that migration always takes place during that wind. Nevertheless it is an undoubted fact that during the autumnal or southern migration of the Quail in September, they collect in vast numbers on the European side, if there be a west wind, and seem not to be able to pass until it changes to the east ; this is so much the case that, should the wind keep in that quarter during the migration, hardly any are to be seen. On some occasions the passage of the larger birds of prey is a most wonderful sight ; but of all the remarkable flights of any single species, that of the Common Crane has been the most noteworthy that has come under my own observation. On the Andalucian side the number of birds seen even by the ordinary traveller appears strikingly large, this being, no doubt, in a great measure caused by the quantity which are, for ten months at least out of the year, more or less on migra- tion ; that is to say, with the exception of June and July, there is no month in which the passage of birds is not noticeable, June being the only one in which there may be said to be absolutely no visible migration, as during the month of July Cuckoos and some Bee-eaters return to the south. Though shooting is hardly a subject within the design of an ornithological brochure like the present, yet it generally happens that an ornithologist is also a sportsman ; and there- fore a few lines on the subject may be acceptable. In the coast-districts of Morocco no large game is found 16 INTBODUCTION. within reach of the European sportsman, excepting wild pigs, which are only to be obtained by the battue system of driving the jungle with beaters and dogs, sitting for hours waiting for the chance of a shot, a class of amusement dignified by the name of a " boar-hunt " ; sometimes, where the country is sufficiently open, the real sport of pig-sticking can be had. No doubt further in the interior there is other large game ; but with the exception of shooting an occasional gazelle and a few pigs, there is no opportunity of using the rifle. The small-game shooting is very good ; the abundance of Barbary Partridges in some districts is miraculous ; but when killed they are of little value in a culinary point of view, being more dry and tasteless than the Spanish Redleg (Caccabis rufa], now SQ well known in many parts of England. The number of Snipe in some seasons is very great, especially at Meshree el Haddar, where, and also at Ras el Doura, Larache, Sharf el Akab, Martine near Tetuan, and Esmir near Ceuta, as good snipe- and wildfowl-shooting as may be wished for can be obtained. But it is, as ever in Europe with Snipe, always uncertain sport, as one day swarms are met with, and perhaps on the next day hardly any are to be found. The absence of roads and bridges renders the country in wet weather at times impossible to travel over, the tracks becoming a succession of mudholes, and the rivers impassable torrents. This, added to the unpleasant certainty of living under canvas during rainy weather, is a great drawback to winter shooting. Another, in my opinion insuperable, objection to shooting in Morocco is, that if any great quantity of game be bagged, it has to be thrown away, as, unless within twenty miles or so of Tangier, it is useless. The Moors, being Mahometans, will not eat any thing killed by a Christian or infidel ; and killing for the mere sake of slaughter does not come within the creed of a true sportsman. In Spain all this is very different, as any one and every one is only too glad to accept of the surplus game. GAME-SHOOTING. 17 In many parts of Morocco rabbits abound ; and hares are in places plentiful. Woodcocks are sometimes tolerably abundant ; Quails, of course, are in swarms during migration ; and there are a great number of Little Bustard. Shooting in Andalucia is far more satisfactory and pleasant sport than on the African side. In the first place, accommodation can always be had in a house of some sort, which in warm weather, however, usually swarms with fleas ; but by taking your own blankets and a camping-palliasse, which can be refilled at each resting-place with chopped straw, one can generally, by the aid of a liberal use of either flea-powder * or albo-carbon (naphthalin), manage to cheat the vermin of their nocturnal banquet. It is almost absolutely necessary to take this powder with one, as sleep in some of the dens where I have passed the night would have been impossible without using it. Another most useful item is an india-rubber flexible bath, as it is not always that a " lebrillo " or large earthenware pan big enough to wash in can be obtained. In addition to the shelter to be got in Andalucia there are roads ; and bad as some may be, they do afford means of communication ; and there are bridges, though not always placed in the right situation; for in places you see a bridge built across a gully without any road on either side of it, and others where the stream has quitted its old course for a new one— single instances out of the many thousand strange and wondrous cosas de Espana. The large game is more varied and plentiful in Andalucia than in Morocco. In most of the wooded valleys of the sierras, near Gibraltar, there were a good many roe-deer (corzo) and a few wild pigs ; in some of the high sierras near Ronda, Ubrique, and in the Sierra Nevada the Spanish Ibex is sparingly found*; * This vegetable powder .is made from a species of Feverfew (Pyrethrum roseum), and is quite innocuous except to insects ; many other plants of the Chrysanthemum group are equally offensive to parasitic insects, C 18 INTRODUCTION. but it is extremely difficult to get them without organizing a regular drive or batida — a very expensive affair, requiring a party of several guns, who must take tents, cooks, &c. up into the mountains ; and then, if successful, as far as sport is concerned it is hardly worth while sitting for several hours behind a stone, nine times out of ten without even seeing an ibex. It is very difficult to stalk them, as they lie hidden in the thick stunted fir and other scrub which is scattered in large patches on the mountain-sides, and are so wary that you cannot come suddenly on them like roe-deer. However, in an ibex- shooting expedition, one is amply repaid by the magnificent scenery and the novelty of the affair ; but as far as shooting goes it is a failure, and every ibex killed by a Gibraltar party costs more than I should like to state. Ibex drop their young about the end of April ; on one occasion a shooting expedition with which I was present succeeded in getting two, both of which I sent home to the Zoological Gardens ; but unfortunately they did not long survive. I am informed that " Ibex, as late as 1830, frequented the sierras above Algeciraz, but a disease which broke out among the tame goats was communicated to the Ibex, who all perished." In the Sierra Morena, near Palma, a little to the west of Cordova, are red deer strictly preserved and well pastured ; the " heads " of the stags are very fine, which is not the case with those of the Goto Dofiana, near San Lucar de Barrameda. All these, however, being wood-frequenting deer, the antlers do not branch out very widely, most of the heads being rather narrow. It is in small-game shooting that Andalucia excels, though it is in no way equal to that of the countries lying east of the Mediterranean. Foremost, both in numbers and sport, is Snipe-shooting ; for in some seasons, about November and December, if the weather has been dry, it is equal to any that can be obtained ; but all depends upon the weather, which, SNIPE-SHOOTING. 19 if wet, causes the birds to disperse over the whole country, while if it be dry they remain in the sotos or marshes, and when flushed return almost immediately. Some of the best sport I have had with them was by waiting in favourite ground while they kept coming in, flying high up overhead, and then swooping down and pitching within a few yards. Fifty couple have been bagged in a day by one gun, and that a muzzle-loader, thirty or twenty-eight couple a gun per day being often obtained. The proportion of Jack-Snipe is about the same as in England, and they keep to the most wet and muddy spots. Snipe, as a rule, in Andalucia are far wilder than in other countries, which is no doubt caused by the nature of the marshes, which, often quite dry at the end of summer, are in winter regular lakes, only at their edges affording any resting-places for the birds, the cover being usually thin and bare. There are many acres of ground flooded with water, from about six inches to a foot in depth, the whole dotted over with tussocks standing an inch or two above the water, and about a foot apart from each other. This tussocky ground is most difficult both to walk over and shoot on, as the tufts are not broad enough to stand on with both feet, and these slippery lumps of mud and grass standing above the water enable the Snipe to see a long distance, and cause them to rise very wildly ; while they also have a most provoking habit of flying up just as you are trying to balance yourself on one of the tussocks. The result, if you fire, is most probably a miss, and down you slip into the water, lucky if on your legs and not on your knees or, as happened to me more than once, on your face. There is, however, one point in favour of all these sotos : they have a firm bottom, the mud is never deep, and there are no quaking bogs or dangerous morasses as in Ireland. A retriever, it is almost needless to add, is perfectly indispensable for this kind of sport, saving (in addition to many birds that would otherwise be lost) much time and the bad temper which c2 20 INTRODUCTION. results from not being able to find birds that have fallen. Snipe in Andalucia are very seldom seen together in lots or wisps, though occasionally in very wet stormy weather small wisps appear. The best localities which I have visited in Andalucia are the marshes near the edges of the Marisma, or delta of the Guadalquivir, below Seville, especially just beyond Coria del Rio, and near the Goto del Rey and the Goto Dofiana ; one spot near the Palacio of the former place, las Carnicerias, is excellent. At Casa Vieja, or, more properly speaking, Casas Viejas, some forty miles from Gibraltar, is very good ground, particularly in the first part of the season ; there are also good marshes near Vejer. Late in the season, near Taivilla and Tapatanilla, on the road from Tarifa to Vejer, at times Snipe are also to be found very plentifully, but are very wild, and it is impossible to make a large bag as there is no cover. The wildfowl- or duck-shooting in dry seasons is very fair in the early part of the winter, before the lagoons and rivers are filled up by the rains, there being then very few wet spots, and the birds crowd together in the small pools Avhich remain between the high banks of the river-beds, and can be easily approached ; but later on, when these streams are brimful or, rather, overflow their banks, and when the lagunas are sheets of water without rushes or cover of any sort at the edges, it is almost impossible to shoot ducks by day except by making " hides " with sticks and stones, and sending some one round and trying to have them driven over you. At flight sometimes very fair sport is to be had for one or two nights ; but after that the fowl know the place, and either come very late or avoid it altogether. For flight-shooting a good retriever is absolutely necessary ; for it is, in the dark, impossible to find the spoil ; and if left till morning, the Marsh-Harriers are at them by break of day, leaving nothing but bones and feathers. To my mind there is very great charm in flight-shooting, and a naturalist while waiting will see and hear much that is pleasant and perhaps WILD GEESE. 21 some that is new to him. This sport requires, too, .considerable skill in judging the distance, and sharpness of vision in being able to catch a glimpse of the ducks as they pass over. It is a great help if you can place yourself so that you face the west, and thus get the birds in the evening light, when they can be seen coming a very long way off"; but if they come from the eastward, and you are obliged to face that way, they never show till close on you ; and the croaking frogs make an almost deafening noise, so that you cannot, as in England, hear the sound of the ducks' wings. Immense numbers of Wild Geese in some years are found in the winter months about the Laguna de la Janda, and below Seville, in the marshes of the Guadalquivir. They are of course very difficult to " get at"; but as they pass the day on the ground at the edge of the water, and always have certain favourite spots to which they resort, they are to be got by digging or making " hides " at the places they most frequent. In the morning, at sunrise, they collect on the water, in some places in hundreds, and swim about feeding for an hour or two on some substance which they pick up from the bottom of the shallow water ; after this they disperse and take to the shore, where, if left undisturbed, they pr.cs the day sleeping and pluming themselves. There is one of these goose-haunts near the Palacio of the Goto del Rey, a little to the south-east of it. One morning in January, having the day previously made a hide among some tufts of rushes, I went and laid up before sunrise to await the geese, which arrived by degrees in flight after flight, till there must have been within a mile of me, at the lowest computation, between three and four thousand ; I shall never forget the sight, and I lay concealed watching them for at least two hours. I could not distinguish amongst them more -than one lot of about a dozen Bean-Geese ; the remainder were all Grey-lags. Some hundreds were within about a hundred yards, and it was 22 INTRODUCTION. very amusing to see them feeding, fighting, and playing with one another ; but somehow they were evidently suspicious of the patch of spiky rushes in which I was lying flat in the slight hole which had been made between two tufts of rushes and covered over with others dug up by the roots, and arranged so as to look as if growing. Unable to turn on my side or move in the least, I was so cramped that it was all I could do to remain there ; but after a time a large lot of geese began to set in towards my position, and in a few minutes more I should have had a good family shot. I had plenty of chances of firing, but could not have got more than a couple ; besides which I liked to watch them, so waited on in hopes of a good lot coming close to me, when, alas ! cries of alarm were heard from the birds furthest away on my right, and after a minute or two they began to fly up, and I could see against the sky a man riding towards them. The geese in front of me all pricked up their heads and were getting ready to be off; so I was obliged to jump and send both barrels at them as my only chance ; and by good luck, or rather thanks to the large shot, two were killed, but not enough to recompense one for lying cramped up for so long ; nevertheless I was more than repaid by the sight of so many wild geese and some other fowl close to me, and being able to watch their movements. Any one who would take the trouble to try punt-shooting with a big gun below Seville on tidal waters might make some wonderful bags, as the enormous quantities of Geese, Wigeon, and other ducks can only be approached with the aid of a punt. When near the edge of water you can always approach Ducks with a stalking-horse ; and Geese will allow this on their first arrival, but soon become too wary. Golden Plover are extremely abundant in vast flocks from November to March. On their first arrival they are not so wild as afterwards. They can always be " got at " with a stalking-horse ; but as good a plan to shoot them as any is QUAILS AND BUSTARDS. 28 to stand still in some place which they frequent .on a windy day, when they will often fly within a few yards. Peewits are numerous, but not worth shooting, as is the case with Curlews ; but the latter are, as elsewhere, much too wary to allow themselves to be shot, and during the whole time I was in Andalucia I never but once had the chance of killing one. Woodcocks in some seasons are numerous ; but five or six couple in a day is a very good bag, very different from Albanian shooting. Red-legged Partridges (Caccabis rufd) are not worth the trouble of going after, either for sport or for the table ; in some places there are a good number, but not near Gibraltar ; they are the chief object of sport with the Spaniards, who kill them at all seasons, even shooting them from the nest. Quails are, during the enfrada or autumnal migration, so extremely abundant that, if there has been a westerly wind for a few days in September, when they are on passage, there is really no limit to the number that may be shot. About Tarifa at that season every gun-possessing man and boy turns out with all the cur dogs in the town, and, regardless of each other, they fire in all directions, so that it is a service of danger to go out near them. If the wind during their passage remains in the east, the Quails pass on, and little or no sport is to be had with them. A west wind appears to detain them and prevent their passing the Straits, though it does not seem to retard their migration by land. The remaining small game to be noticed in Andalucia are Bustards, hares, and rabbits. The Great Bustard is only to be got with any certainty by driving. The Little Bustard, more wary still, is only to be shot in the' end of July and in August during the extreme heat of the day, though rarely they can be driven over a gun by getting under the bank of a river or such like shelter, and sending a man round to put them up ; but on rising they usually mount up very 24 INTRODUCTION. high, in this respect differing from the Great Bustard, which seldom flies high enough to be out of shot if you are directly underneath. Hares (Lepus mediterraneus) are a much smaller species than in England, about the size of a good average English rabbit, not very abundant anywhere and frequenting open fiat and cultivated districts, never being found among woods or high ground. Rabbits, of course, are abundant but very small, rather less in size than the New - Forest rabbit, which is the most diminutive race in England. A shooting - license, easily obtainable through the aid of any British Consul, is requisite in Spain ; and though seldom asked for, it is better to have one. The form and cost of one varies according to the Government, and therefore is seldom alike two years in succession. A close time has been established, but, needless to say, in the wild districts is not regarded. Here follows a partial list of the Mammalia of Andalucia, with their local names, which may be useful to the sportsman. Of course there are other species of small Mammals to be found, especially among the Bats ; with the names of the latter I have been kindly assisted by Lord Lilford, who has personally obtained them all in Andalucia. Those marked with an asterisk I have obtained myself or seen " in the flesh." Greater Horse-shoe Bat Ehinolophus ferrum-equinum. * E. euryale. Lesser Horse-shoe Bat . E. bibastatus. Dysopes rueppellii. Barbastelle Barbastellus communis. *Noctule Vespertilio noctula. *Mouse-coloured Bat . . V. tnurinus. *Schreiber's Bat V. schreiberi. Long- eared Bat V. auritus. V. schreiberi, V. murinus, and R. euryale are found in caves near Casas Viejas — the two former species in countless numbers, MAMMALIA. 25 the dung at the bottom of the caves being from four to five feet in depth. The Spanish name for all is Murcielayo. *Hedgehog Erinaceus europseus. *Shrevv Sorex araneus. *Mole Talpa europaea. *Badger Meles taxus. *Comrnou Marten Cat . . Mustela foina. *Polecat M. putorius. *Weasel M. vulgaris. *0tter Lutra vulgaris. *Genet Viverra genet ta. *Ichneumon Herpestes ichneumon. *Wild Cat Felis catus. *Spanish or Spotted Lynx F. pardina. *Wolf Canis lupus. *Fox C. vulpes, var. melanogaster. Squirrel Sciurus vulgaris. *Fat Dormouse Myoxus glis. M. nitella. *Dormouse M. avellanarius. *Brown Eat Mus decumanus. *Mouse M. musculus. *Black Eat M. rattus. *Long-tailed Field-Mouse M. sylvaticus. *Water-Eat Arvicola amphibius. *Field-Mouse A. agrestis. *Hare Lepus mediterraneus. *Eabbit L. cuniculus. *Wild Pig Sus scrofa. *Eed Deer Cervus elaphus. *Fallow Deer C. daina. *Eoe Deer C. capreolus. *Ibex Capra hispanica. Spanish names. Erizo. Musarana. Topo. Tejon. Foina. Turon. Coinadreja. Nutra or Nutria. Gineta. Melon, Meloncillo. Gato raontes. Gato clavo, Gato cerval. Lobo. Zorro. Ardilla. Liron campestre. Eaton careto. Lirori de los Avellanos. Eata. Eaton. Eata negro. Eaton de campo. Eata de agua. Topino. Liebre. Conejo. Jabali, Jabalina. Ciervo. Gamo, Paleto. Corzo. Cabra monte's. In this book I have endeavoured to name with each species of bird some definite locality where they may be found, which is rather necessary, as certainly on the Spanish side of the Straits birds are very locally distributed, perhaps more so than 26 INTRODUCTION. in most countries I have visited. It is difficult to surmise the cause of this, .as precisely similar tracts of country within no very great distance of each other are not always frequented by the same birds. On the Spanish side, without doubt, the most common bird as regards numbers is the Goldfinch, and the most universally distributed the Stonechat. The number of birds of prey is very great, chiefly feeding on rabbits, rats, mice, reptiles, and insects ; they are very useful, and as the ground-breeding birds suffer much in the nesting-season from snakes and lizards, those birds of prey which feed chiefly on these enemies of the smaller birds render their lesser brethren valuable protection. The number of little birds, especially during the season of migration, is sure to be noticed even by the most unobservant. Immense quantities of Larks, Finches, and even some of the Warblers are brought into the markets ; but as a Spaniard seldom shoots at such small fry, they are chiefly netted, caught at night with a lantern and bell, or snared with bird-lime (%#). The best localities for an ornithologist living at Gibraltar to obtain specimens or watch migration is the country west of an imaginary line drawn due north from Gibraltar as far as the latitude of Seville. Within this district, part of which is given in the Map attached to this volume, as much can be done as is possible in three or four months' time ; and the district is large enough to require many years to work it out thoroughly. In the immediate vicinity of Gibraltar (or el Penon, as the Spaniards call it), the Cork-wood of Almoraima and the level ground, mud-flats, and old salinas " between the rivers " on the way to Algeciraz offer to the collector capital ground for work. In the Cork-wood particularly several birds are found breeding which do not seem to nest elsewhere. The ground north-east of Gibraltar is to a great extent covered with scrub and brushwood ; and little is to be done in the bird line in that direction. LOCALITIES FOR COLLECTING. 27 The sierras being too far distant, cannot be worked from Gibraltar ; it is necessary to go to Algeciraz, Facinas, Pulverilla, or some cortijo near the hills you wish to work. Very deceptive in appearance, looking quite low and easy to ascend, it takes three or four hours to reach their tops, which, bare, rugged, and wild beyond description, are alone worth visiting for the view, which, always grand, on a clear day is magnificent, that from the Penon del Fraile to the west of Algeciraz being one of the finest. From these mountains run down numerous wooded valleys (gargantas) clothed with cork and oak trees, many of very large size, though badly mutilated by being lopped by charcoal- burners. The rocky streams which flow down these valleys are fringed with rhododendron, arbutus, holly, hawthorn, laurestinus, oleander, bay, myrtle, giant heather, cistus, and many sorts of ferns, conspicuous amongst them being the Osmunda and maiden- hair, while here and there is an occasional Caladium with its huge leaves reminding one in shape of elephant's ears : the leaves of this plant, called Jwjas de llama, are much used by the country people as a medicine for fevers ; many of the rocks and all the trunks of the cork-trees are festooned with hare's-foot fern (calaguala), also used medicinally. In spring these ravines are, from their natural beauty and the colour of these various shrubs and flowers, so picturesque that one cannot help lingering about them merely to admire the charming scenery, becoming apt to forget the birds for which one is in search. These places are seldom visited by an Englishman, only by stray smugglers, goatherds, and charcoal- burners ; and every pass, hill, valley, in fact every well-marked situation, has its name, many more familiar to me than the streets of London. Those valleys most worth visiting near Gibraltar are the Garganta del Capitan, to the north-west of Algeciraz, on the way to Ojen by the mountain-path of la Trocha, which is within easy distance (five or six miles) of Algeciraz. The valley 28 INTRODUCTION. of the Guadalmalcil, halfway on the road between Tarifa and Algeciraz, is also very beautiful ; but the Garganta del Helecho (Valley of the Ferns), south-west of Pulverilla, is perhaps the best for shrubs, flowers, and ferns. The " Waterfall " valley, near Algeciraz (la Garganta del Aguila), is tamer than any ; but above the cascades or waterfalls it improves on acquaintance. This ravine, however, is well knowTn to every one who has been at Gibraltar as the regular rendezvous for picnics, the very name of which is enough to destroy any merits that the scenery may possess. Towards Tarifa and beyond, on the road to Vejer, the country is not so pretty, opening out near Facinas to the vega TEBEACE ON THE NORTH SIDE OF SAN BAETOLOM^. of the Laguna de la Janda ; thence cultivated ground, or campina, stretches away to Medina Sidonia and on to Jerez. On the right and left of this road, however, are three isolated rocky ranges — those of la Sierra de San Bartolome and la Sierra de la Plata being to the left, that of la Sierra de Enmedio to the EOCKY CLIFFS, ETC. 29 right ; these ranges are the breeding-places of Griffon Vultures and other rock-breeding birds, and are well worthy of a visit. I here give the names of a few of the rocky cliffs which should be visited by those who wish to see such places : — la Laja de la Zarga and la Silla del Papa, in the Sierra de Plata ; la Laja del Ciscar *, to the east of and near Taivilla ; Piedra de Paz, near Paterna ; la Laja de los Pajaros, los Jolluelos, and la Laja de Peiiarroyo, near Casas Viejas. There are also magnificent cliffs in the Sierra de las Cabras, east of Alcala de los Gazules, and hundreds of others which I saw but could not find time to visit. I did not care to send "collectors" to bring eggs without the birds to which they belonged ; or, as is often the case with these worthies, they would have brought eggs with birds to which they did not belong, and, with unblushing effrontery, sworn perhaps, as I have known them do, that a Turkey's egg was taken by them in a high cliff, and belonged to an " Aguila de las rocas." It is to be hoped that this book may not be the cause of the useless or unnecessary destruction of any bird, and especially that dealers may not profit thereby. All mentioned is intended for the benefit of true ornithologists, and not for those who are never satisfied unless killing or having killed as many rare birds as possible. It will be seen that there is sport to be had in Andalucia ; and the shooting has the charm of a varied bag, and the freedom to wander where you like, as a rule ; added to which it is necessary to work for your game, which, in my idea, adds much to the pleasure of sport. The climate, too, is all that can be wished, especially in spring, when there is something most exhilarating in the air; but in autumn, until October, it is too warm to go out with pleasure, and the sun-baked, tawny, dusty, thirsty-looking country has lost all the beauty of its flowers and the verdure of spring. To see Andalucia, it should be visited in * This name is from " ciscar," to besmear, the whole face of the laja being so whitened by th.3 Vultures' droppings as to be conspicuous some miles off. 30 INTRODUCTION. March, April, and May, in order to thoroughly appreciate both the climate and the scenery. Another hint which I would fain give is to be as civil as possible, and conform to the customs of the country. The Andalucian peasant, courteous and polite, is at heart a caballero, and very different from the inhabitants of the towns ; at the same time he is proud and independent, and, to humour him, he must be treated on terms of equality. Above all things remember that it is no use attempting to hurry in Spain, where patience is more severely taxed than in any other country, and where no corre prieaa is the order of the day. Certainly the best cure for impatience is to pass a few months among Spaniards. Here ends this Introductory Chapter, with apologies for its shortcomings in the fact that it is the concoction of one who detests pen, ink, and paper, and who is more at home with the gun, rifle, or fishing-rod ; so, in the manner of the country which to me has so many charms, let me conclude with the farewell and time-honoured salutation, Vaya Vd. con Dws. EL OBGATsO, KEAB, TAKIFA. CHANGES IN THE VICINITY OF THE ROCK. 31 Since the preceding was written, alas ! more than twenty years ago, the writer has on several occasions in winter and spring visited his old haunts, the last expedition being made in com- pany with Major Willoughby Verner, Rifle Brigade, who was quartered at Gibraltar from 1874 to 1881, and who has since made frequent visits. To him I owe many records of his practical observations, as well as to Mr. Meade-Waldo for some notes made by him during a visit to Tangier in the spring of 1892. Captain Savile Reid, late Royal Engineers, contributed a paper to ' The Ibis,' 1885, " Winter Notes from Morocco " ; while Mr. Abel Chapman wrote in ' The Ibis,' 1884, " Rough Notes on Spanish Ornithology," and in many of his Chapters of his ' Wild Spain ' he treats of Andalucian birds. " Aves de Espana/' by Don Jose Arevalo y Baca, vol. xi. ' Memorias de la Real Academia de Ciencias ' (Madrid, 1887), contains some information on Andalucian birds, and all given on personal observation is no doubt bond fide, but unfortunately he often quotes one upon whom we cannot rely. There is now, in 1894, little change in the country near Gibraltar, except in the dress of the peasantry, who have dis- carded most of their picturesque provincial costume, even the old sombrero is rarely seen, and replaced by the felt hat of the London rough ; while the " fair " sex have left off the grace- giving mantilla and even in wild out-of-the-way places adopted caricatures of modern fashions. There seems, if possible, more poverty, and in the winter of 1893-94 there was mucha hamlre and actual deaths from want ; and had not the early spring of 1894 been exceptionally wet, there would have been a serious famine. Among changes in the immediate vicinity of the Rock, a serious one for the Garrison is that the right of shooting over all that part " between the rivers " to as far as and including the Cork-wood has been hired and monopolized by some Gibraltar 32 INTRODUCTION. merchants, so the British officer, who used to go where he wished, has no chance of a day's gunning : he must either cross the Straits or make an expedition into Spain — an expensive affair, which takes a day en route and another on return. It is much to be regretted that the Garrison could not have arranged to hire this shooting, so as to enable officers to have a day's sport ; but the chance has passed away, probably not to return. In addition to this there are many other places marked acotado (preserved), which used not to be so, and many more PEASANTRY, TAPATANILLA. guns are carried in the country, which has caused a great decrease in the resident birds of prey during the last twenty years. About Gibraltar the Griffon Vulture is as numerous as then, but the Bearded Vulture is gone. In the provinces of Malaga and Granada many Vultures, Bearded and Griffon, are reported to have been destroyed by poison, laid for wolves &c. As few genera have been given as possible : the present rage is MEASUREMENTS. 33 to give as many as any excuse can be found for, and will soon result in every bird having a separate genus ; and in addition some writers now give a bird the same generic and specific name, thus making as much confusion as possible in nomen- clature. The unfortunate part of ornithology, as at present practised, is that it is chiefly confined to the slaughter of birds, whose skins, when compared and examined by table naturalists, are upon the slightest variation in plumage made into new species, without any knowledge of their habits, notes, &c. Much more can be done by observation than by the gun, and when a bird is destroyed all chance of noticing its habits is destroyed likewise. Measurements of length given are only an attempt to show the proportionate size of a species. Measurements, in the writer's opinion, are of little use, especially as hardly any two persons measure a bird in the same manner. LAJA DEL CISCAB. 34 TUKD1D.E. Order PASSERES. Family TURDIDJE. Subfamily TURBINE. Young spotted. 1. Turdus viscivorus, Linnaeus. The Mistle-Thrush. Spanish. Charla (Chatterer). " Found near Tangier, always singly and very sparingly in company with T. musicus, on passage. They arrive in November, but do not stay near here, returning to recross the Straits in February. "—Favier. They occasionally nest near Tangier, as in 1869 I saw eggs taken near there. The Mistle-Thrush cannot be said to be common near Gibraltar, being most so in winter. They are considered to arrive and depart with the Woodcocks ; but a few pairs nest in the Cork-wood and other wooded districts. Axillaries white ; a white patch on end of inner web of two outer tail- feathers on each side. Young. Spotted with buff and black on head and back. Length 11 inches. 2. Turdus musicus, Linnaeus. The Song-Thrush. Spanish. Zorzal. Favier's note applies to this bird on both sides of the Straits, and is as follows : — " The Song-Thrush is a winter resident in great numbers, being the most common of the Thrushes, arriving in large flocks in October and November, departing in March." On the Spanish side they chiefly frequent the wild olive-trees, on the berries of which they feed. The first date of arrival TURDUS MEEULA. 35 noticed at Gibraltar was the 22nd of October ; and the latest day on which I observed them was the 1st of April. Axillaries biiffish yellow ; eye-stripe scarcely developed. Young. Spotted ; the feathers of upper surface with pale centres. Afte first moult young resembles adult, but has pale ends to the wing-coverts. Length 9 inches. 3. Turdus iliacus, Linnaeus. The Redwing. Spanish. Malvis. "This Thrush is very rare near Tangier. I have only met with two, between November and March — one in 1852, the other in 1864:."— Favier. Mr. Meade-Waldo observed them on the 17th of February, 1892, near Tangier. In Andalucia the Redwing is abundant in winter, in company with the Song-Thrush. Axillaries chestnut-red ; well-defined whitish streak over eye, reaching to nape. Length 8| inches. 4. Turdus pilaris, Linnseus. The Fieldfare. Is not mentioned by Favier, but Mr. Meade-Waldo found Fieldfares in abundance on the Moorish side of the Straits in the spring of 1892. On the Spanish side I never met with any, but they are reported by Arevalo from Granada. Axillaries white ; rump slate-grey. Length 10 inches. 5. Turdus merula, Linnaeus. The Blackbird. Moorish. Tchau Tchau (Favier). Spanish. Mirlo. " Resident near Tangier and very plentiful, nesting three times a year." — Favier. I found a nest in Morocco built in a prickly-pear hedge. The Blackbird nests at Gibraltar, and is resident and very D2 36 TURDID.E. common in Andalucia : in the winter months their numbers are greatly augmented by migrants. Male. Black ; bill orange-yellow. Female. Brownish black or reddish brown ; bill brown. Young. Like female, but more spotted ; the male with blackish bill. Length 10 inches. 6. Turdus torquatus, Linnaeus. The Ring-Ouzel. Spanish. Chirlo. " Is only met with in small nights on passage near Tangier, crossing to Europe in March and April, and returning in the autumn to pass the winter further south." — Favier. I only observed the Ring-Ouzel near Gibraltar on passage in the spring, the earliest dates in each year being the 8th of April 1868, 20th of March 1870, 9th of April 1871, 12th of March 1872, 28th of March 1874; but they are known to breed in the mountains near Granada, and Mr. Saunders records a nest near Colmenar. Male. Uniform brownish black, with wldte crescent on chest. Female. Lighter ; crescent narrower, washed with brown. Young. Spotted. Length 11 inches. 7. Monticola cyanus (Linnaeus). The Blue Rock-Thrush. Moorish. Tchau-tchau zerak. Spanish. Solitario. Favier states that the Blue Rock-Thrush, which is as common in suitable localities in Morocco as in Andalucia, is migratory, passing north from February to May, and passing south from August to September. I never could detect any migration on the Spanish side, and consider it one of the very few birds which are stationary, not even shifting their ground — though, perhaps, in other countries circumstances may cause them to migrate. Abundantly distributed on all rocky ground, even on sea-cliffs, and often seen on house-tops in those towns which lie in their districts, they are always to be found at Gibraltar in unvarying MOxNTICOLA CYAN US. 37 numbers, frequenting daily the same spots, and attracting considerable notice both from their melodious song and con- spicuous habits. I here repeat a note made about their nesting, which has already appeared in Dresser's account of this species : — " A pair nested in a hole outside the wall of my stable at Gibraltar in June 1869. Five eggs were laid, which were hatched about the 20th. The nest, composed of small dried bits of roots, was very scanty and ill put together. When the young were hatched, I broke through the wall from the inside of the stable to the nest, making the hole large enough to admit a small cage, in which I placed the nest and young ; and then hung an old coat over the inside hole, so as to shut out the light from the inside, cutting a small slit in the coat through which to watch the old birds feeding their young within six inches distance. Both birds fed them, at intervals of not more than five minutes. The food consisted almost entirely of centipedes (Scolopendrce), with now and then a large spider or bluebottle fly by way of change. Where they could have found so many centipedes it is difficult to imagine, as they are insects which lie hid all day under stones &c. The head was always bitten off, and the insect so mangled as to be quite dead. Two of the five young died in the cage, from the old birds not being able to get at them. Of the other three, only one attained maturity, living till October, when, to my great regret, he went the way of all pets. He was very tame, and of most engaging habits and disposition — in fact, what the Spaniards call ' simpatico.' In his early days he was fed on bread and bruised snails ; later on he had more fruit, which possibly killed him. "The Blue Rock-Thrush very often perches on trees, and at Gibraltar and Tangier is frequently seen on the house-tops, though generally observed on bare rocky ground. They are sometimes found in wooded places, if there are any high rocks ; for instance, a pair nested at the first waterfall near Algeciraz, 38 TUKDID.E. which is in the midst of a dense forest. They have a habit in the courting-season of flying straight out from a rock, and then suddenly dropping with the wings half shut, like a Wood- Pigeon in the nesting-time. The Blue Rock-Thrush is very fond of ivy-berries and all fruit." It seems that they nest more than once a year, as on the 25th of April Mr. Stark found a nest with young about a week old, and on the 3rd of May a nest with five eggs hard sat on, the one in my stable being hatched in the end of June. One set of eggs obtained by Mr. Stark were of the usual delicate pale blue colour, but marked with small russet spots at the large end, somewhat like eggs of the Black Wheatear (Saxicola leucura). All the nests built on ledges of rocks and open to view are larger and better-built than those placed in holes. Verner tells me (1894) that they still occupy the same situations on the Rock as they did twenty years ago ; and he knows no bird whose eggs are more difficult to find, as during time of laying and incubation they seem to know if they are watched ; and the nests on the Rock are, as a rule, more difficult of access than in the sierras. He found on May 22, 1875, five young able to fly ; May 13, 1877, five young fully fledged ; March 23, 1878, nest just finished ; April 24, 1879, nest just completed, first egg on April 13. They never seem to lay more or less than five eggs : this out of many nests he found. Male in spring. Uniform slaty blue ; head and neck with silvery gloss : in autumn and winter with narrow whitish margins to the body-feathers. Female. Browner than male. Length 8£ to 9 inches. 8. Monticola saxatilis, Linnaeus. The White-backed Rock- Thrush. " Is found on passage only near Tangier, crossing to Europe in April. Is a scarce species, and very rarely obtained during passage." — Favier. SAXICOLA (ENANTHE. 39 I saw several near Tangier on the 16th of April, 1872, and one on the 30th of March, 1874, also numbers passing at Gibraltar on the 4th of April, 1870 ; and one was seen there returning on the 26th of September, 1868. According to Arevalo this bird nests in all the mountain ranges of the Peninsula. Tail chestnut, two centre feathers darker than others ; axillaries and lower parts chestnut. Male. Head and neck blue ; centre of back nearly white. Female. Brown, mottled. Length 7^ inches. 9. Saxicola cenanthe, Linnaeus. The Common Wheatear. Spanish. Culiblanco, Ruiblanca : but these names apply to all the Wheatears. " This is the most common of the ' Traquets,' except the Stonechat and Whinchat, but is only seen near Tangier on migration in small flights during March and April, returning in September." — Favier. Wheatears are abundant in Andalucia, but seen only on passage. First noticed on the 4th of March in 1870 ; a single male bird at Tangier on the 26th of March in 1874 ; many seen near Alcala del Rio on the 4th of April ; again passing in numbers at Gibraltar on the 12th of April. Wheatears were plentiful near Casas Viejas at the end of October and the first part of November, being last seen on the 13th of that month. I have a note also of observing six or seven in the middle of the Bay of Biscay on the 9th of October, when they settled on the steamer, keeping with us till night. Axillaries white, writh dark centres. Rump white. Male. Above pale slate-grey ; below white ; ear-coverts black. Female. Above dull brown ; below buff ; ear-coverts dark brown. Young. Like the female, but spotted with dark markings on feathers above and below. Both sexes in autumn are alike, resembling female in spring, but have buff margins to all the feathers. Length 6 inches. 40 TURDID.E. 10. Saxicola stapazina, Vieillot. Western Black - throated Wheatear. " Passes near Tangier during March and April, returning in September. Is the most frequent after the Wheatear, with which bird they travel." — Favier. Is in Andalucia apparently less common than the Black-eared Wheatear, perhaps because they frequent higher ground ; at least I have noticed them more about mountain-tops. First seen 17th of March, 1877 (Verner), 23rd of March, 1894 (Tapatanilla). They nest about the same time as the Black-eared Wheatear, which they resemble in habits, nest, and eggs. Axillaries black ; two-thirds of two centre tail-feathers black with the basal third white, the others white tipped with black. Male. Crown, back, rump, breast, and belly white, suffused with buff' on back and breast. Chin and upper throat black. Length 5| inches. 11. Saxicola albicollis, Vieillot. The Black-eared Wheat- ear. According to Favier, this bird is less common than Saxicola stapazina near Tangier, but is met with in the same way. Near Gibraltar they appeared to me to be the most frequent, and were first seen there on the 3rd of April, 1870, when several were noticed ; and on the 15th of March, 1872, one was observed, and a single bird at Tangier on the 14th. Seen at Tangier on the 18th March, 1894, by Mr. Irby, 60th Kifles, and by myself on the 23rd at Sierra Retin. They breed on the " Queen of Spain's Chair," laying about the first week in May, building a loosely constructed nest among stones and rocks, very often in the same situations as the Blue Rock-Thrush. The eggs are light blue, with a zone of brown spots at the large end. Throat white. Male. Marked as last, but has head and back more whitish, but generally suffused with buff; lores and patch round eye to side of neck black. Female. Brownish where black in male. Length 6^ inches. SAXICOLA LEUCURA. 41 12. Saxicola leucura (Gmelin). The Black Wheatear. Spanish. Sacristan (the Sexton) ; Pedrero (the Stone-mason). This bird is merely named as occurring near Tangier by Favier, but is found in Morocco in suitable localities. On the Spanish side the Black Wheatear is a common and conspicuous bird at Gibraltar, and to be seen throughout the year; elsewhere some are migratory, arriving in March, and only found on bare rocky ground. The nest is sometimes in clefts of rocks, so deep in as to be inaccessible. Mr. Stark took a nest on the 25th of April, near Gibraltar, containing four pale blue eggs hard sat on, marked with a zone of light reddish-brown spots. The nest was very large, loosely built with grass and heather-roots, lined inside with finer grass, two or three feathers of the Neophron, and one bit of palmetto fibre. The name of pedrero is applied to this bird from their curious habit of placing small stones as a foundation to their nest, and frequently, as when open to view, making a sort of wall or screen of stones in front of the nest. Verner remarks that they much resemble the Blue Rock-Thrush in habits ; and all the many nests found by him had foundations of small stones — the first two had foundations only, but the third had a slight wall in front — and until he heard from me that this bird was known near Malaga as pedrero he was much puzzled to account for the stones being so placed. In some instances the foundation appears to be useful in keeping the nest dry. The most remarkable nest we met with was on the 6th of April, 1894, in a small hole in the roof of a sandstone cave in the Sierra Bartolome. This nest, which I myself saw in situ, was made of grass and fibres lined with finer fibres of the palmetto, without wool or feathers : the cavity was filled by the nest and by the foundation and barrier of stones in front ; the latter was 9 inches long, the same in width, and 2^ inches high. Yerner removed the stones and found that the wall in front 42 TURDID^E. ""C-^— •*- *•** *^ ' v-