+ NINN 000050b04be GREEN ee 4 MOUNTAIN. Our Native GRapE. (GRAPES ano THEIR CULTURE ALSO DESCRIETINE .LIST. OF OLD AND NEW VARIETIES, PUBLISHED BY C. MITZKY & CO. p Gf BS Hd bey See, 1893. / W. W. MORRISON, PRINTER, 95-99 EAST MAIN STREET ROCHESTER, N. Y. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1893, by C. MITZKY & CO., ROCHESTER, N. Y., in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. INTRODUCTION. RAPE GROWING is fast becoming a great industry. Its importance is almost incalculable, and it should re- ceive every reasonable encouragement. It is not our intention inthis manual, ‘ OUR NATIVE GRAPE,” to make known new theories, but to improve on those already in practice. Since the publication of former works on this subject a great many changes have taken place; new destructive diseases have ap- peared, insects, so detrimental to Grapevines, have increased, making greater vigilance and study neces- sary. New varieties of Grapes have sprung up with great rapidity Many labor-saving tools have been introduced, in fact, Grape culture of the present time is a vast improvement on the Grape culture of years ago. The material herein contained has been gathered by the assistance of friends all over the country in all parts of the United States, and compiled and arranged that not alone our own ex- perience, but that of the best experts in the country, may serve as a guide to the advancement of Grape culture. We have spared neither time or expense to make this work as complete as possible. With all our efforts, however, we feel compelled to ask forbearance for our shortcom- ings and mild judgment for our imperfections. We beg to acknowledge our obligations to our numerous friends who came forward with such a willingness to assist, that with pleasure we pushed the task we had undertaken, being confident of its success. We are under great obligations to the Agricultural Department at Washington, and to many of the Directors of our Experimental Stations who have aided us with valu- able articles and engravings,—Prof. T. V. Munson, D. S. Marvin, Dr. Stayman, Luther Tucker of “‘ Zhe Cultivator and Country Gentleman :’? To these and many others who have kindly furnished us information necessary for the completion of our work, we feel grateful and hope that many readers who have had more or less bitter disappointments in the cultivation of the most delicious of all ou: fruits, may profit from this work. C. MITZKY & CO. History oF THE GRAPE. RAPE CULTURE is a matter of increasing interest. If we look back through € the pages of history into the dark ages of the past we find that God in the very beginning gave us, in the garden of Eden this most delicious of all the choice fruits, and that in Noah’s vineyard there were Grapes sweet and tempting. History tells us that as early as the year 1630 there was in Palestine, Grapevines, the stems of which were nearly a foot and a half in diameter, thirty feet high with branches covering a space over fifty feet square, producing clusters of Grapes weigh- ing from ten to twelve pounds, with berries, which might be compared to our plums of the present time. At Hebron Grapes grew so large that a single bunch was as much as two men could conveniently carry, and on the Jewish mountains the bunches of Grapes which grew wild, were each half an ell (27 inches) long and the berries two joints of a finger in length. These historical statements are worthy of credence, Hl i i | \ i : it “ ch i 3 Hy i a uu Mh ay 4 | ; Cin 5 Zi ied 1H Se (Za al dh Fo Fd i in Hi nt If LOH ty ULE ll "h | : = [| GRAPEVINE AT HAMPTON COURT, ENGLAND. but are, indeed, surpassed by the Grapes of Damascus, at the present day, which are often found to weigh twenty-five pounds to the single bunch. Vines in Crete and Chois produced clusters from ten to forty pounds each. A bunch of Syrian Grapes grown in a vineyard at Wetbeck, England, weighed nineteen pounds. It was known to the Egyptians ; representations of the culture of the vine, of the treading out'of the juice and of the storing of the wine in jars, being all discovered in paintings within the tombs. Columns in Juno’s Temple at Metapont, and a statue of Jupiter in the city of Apollonium were made from the wood of the vine. The 6 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. great doors of the Cathedral of Ravenna are made of vine planks, some of which are twelve feet long and fifteen inches broad. The Hampton Court vine is the most famous in England. It was planted in 1769 in a glass house seventy-two feet long and about thirty feet wide which is completely filled by this one vine. The trunk is nearly three feet in circumference at about three feet from the ground, or about as large as the trunk of a full-sized apple tree. It bears an annual crop of about a ton of Black Hamburg Grapes, and has produced 2,500 large bunches in a single season. As this vine was planted not many hundred feet from the Thames, it is thought that the roots extend to the river and thus have obtained nourishment for so many years. At Montecito, Cal., four miles from Santa Barbara, there is a Grapevine, probably the largest in the world. Its diameter and yield would be incredible, were it not that they were vouched for by men of veracity, speaking from personal observation. It is a single vine, planted by a Mexican woman about sixty years ago, and has a diameter of twelve inches, one foot from the ground. Its branches cover an area of 12,000 feet and produce annually from 10,000 to 12,000 pounds of Grapes of the Mission variety (many bunches weighing six and seven pounds), the crop being generally made into wine. The old lady who planted this one-vine vineyard died in 1865, at the age of 107. California also has the largest vineyard in the worid. It is in Tehama county. consisting of 3,825 acres, to which a considerable number of acres are added every year. Up to 1840, the only Grapes grown in this country in open air were the Catawba and Isabella, and these were confined almost wholly to the cliffs about Cincinnati. The ives and Iona came later, and when Mr, Rogers commenced his work of crossing the foreign Grapes with the wild Fox Grape of Massachusetts, the result was the production of over forty varieties, some of which are still esteemed very highly. Soon after this, Mr. Rickett began his experiments of hybridizing or crossing, in which he was successful, producing many valuabie varieties. From about this time on, the interest in such work began to develop and scores of experimenters have been busy multiplying varieties until we now have a long list of valuable sorts of this excellent fruit. Grape culture in the old world has always been considered one of the most important branches of industry and in our own favored land, especially in some sec- tions, it is fast gaining importance. The acreage is constantly increasing, but not as rapidly as the consumption. A larger and larger amount of this delicious fruit is being consumed by ali classes of people. It has been but a few years since our native Grapes have become an article of commerce in our large cities, yet the trade is enor- mous ; single persons selling as many as a thousand tons in one season, and in our country villages, where a short time ago a few baskets would supply the demand, tons are now used. As compared with France and many parts of the old world the vineyard business in this country is only in its infancy. In New York State, in what is known as the Lake Keuka district, a grower of Grapes shipped his first crop, amounting to fifty pounds, to the New York market, about 1845, by way of the New York and Erie canal. The Grapes were delivered in good condition and the commission houses handling them wrote encouragingly to the shipper, advising further shipments. The next year the grower was able to ship some two or three hundred pounds. He overdid the matter, however, and the New York market on Grapes broke under the pressure. It is estimated, that during the season of 1890, there have been shipped from the same district and carried by the different railroads and express companies to New York, Boston, Philadelphia and other mar- kets about 20,000 tons or 40,000,000 pounds of Grapes, and probably one-quarter of this amount was, in addition, sold to wine manufacturers. The Hudson River dis, OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 7 trict is estimated to have shipped to New York and other markets, between 13,000 and 15,000 tons of Grapes, while the Chautauqua district of New York furnished about 15,000 tons of Grapes for the different markets of the country, making a grand total of nearly 50,000 tons as the product of what is known asthe New York district. This does not include over 15,000 tons of Grapes used in the districts for wine. According to a bulletin sent out by the Census bureau at Washington, there are, to-day, over 300,000 acres planted to vines that are bearing Grapes, and nearly 100,000 to vines not yet arrived at that remunerative stage. The average yield of Grapes per acre is something over two tons, the commercial value of which is set down at fifty- seven dollars a ton; the total product is put at over 600,000 tons, of which over 267,000 tons are sold for table use, including what are eaten ripe from the vines and what are dried and disposed of as raisins. This leaves over 300,000 tons as the amount turned into wine in the year, yielding the enormous amount of 24,000,000 gallons. This will probably surprise the average citizen, and none more than those whose highly cultured taste leads them to regard with contempt any wine that has not the foreign brand on the bottle or cork. Though some American made wine is openly sent abroad for foreign consumption, by far the greater part of the product is consumed here, some of it directly from the places of its manufacture, and some of it after a double sea voyage, in the course of which it passes through a French cus- tom house and gets a French name before it comes through an American custom house and finally sparkles on an American table. The average value of wine in this country is eighty-three cents a gallon, and in- asmuch as the capital invested in Grape cuiture of all kinds for wines, raisins and fresh table use is about $156,000,000, it indicates a very handsome return upon the investment, say 33% per cent. on the wine Grape alone and not counting the profit on the table grape and raisin. This does not represent the ultimate profit from the whole sum derived from the sale of the wine manufactured, because it is only the manufacturer’s price, and to that must be added the retailer’s profit on all the wines sold by the gallon, or bottle, Say nothing at all about that sold by the glass. California, the state which produces the largest amount, has more than half the total acreage under cultivation. New York State is the next largest wine producer. Sixty thousand of its 75,000 tons of Grapes are sold for table use and only 15,000 tons are turned into wine. California _ sells 236,000 tons to wineries and nearly 39 ooo for table use, and produces 14,626,000 gallons of wine, while New York produces over 2,500,000 gallons. The yield per acre of Grapes is just about the same in New York as in California, 1.75 tons to 1.77 tons. New York Grapes, however, yield about 160 gallons to the ton while those of California only about 60. Grape culture shows a more remarkable growth than any other agricultural in- dustry. This is largely due to the development within the past ten years of new, better and ear-ier varieties than were before kuown. Yet so large is the demand for the best Grapes that there is yet less danger of this industry being overdone than there is of a surplus of any other kind of fruit. Millions of dollars are annually made by viticulturists in the United States. Judging the-future by the past, we shall know a great deal more about the Grape and its best, most scientific and profitable cultivation, than we do now. The Grape grower’s vocation properly, promptly and intelligently attended to is one of the pleasantest, most healthful, respectable and enjoyable in the whole range of human industries connected with the tilling of the soil, and therefore one in which it is entirely justifiable to take an honest pride. 8 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. CLASSIFICATION. ferent classes, but all of the varieties now under cultivation belong to either of 6: Grape vines of America have been more or less judiciously divided into dif- these four classes only, viz.: VITIS AESTIVALIS, VITIS LABRUSCA, VITIS RIPARIA, VITIS ROTUNDIFOLIA. The varieties of one class have not always such distinct peculiarities as to be easily identified as belonging to that class, and sometimes the difference between varieties of the same class is so great, that it could not be ventured to give the general characteristics of each class, and be certain that they would apply to all its varieties. This explains why viticulturists do not always agree in the classification of the same species. While it is not of primary importance for the practical vineyardist to know ex- actly to which class a special variety belongs, such knowledge, however, will enable him to determine at once for what soil and climate that Grape is better suited. The Grapevines cultivated in the district east of the Rocky Mountains are natives of this country, which have either been picked up in the woods, improved by culti- vation, or are a product of natural or artificial hybridization ; but all the varieties which we cultivate under the name of American Grapes belong to one of the follow- ing classes : Vitis Aestivalis. Wild Aestivalis is found in different parts of the United States, on the road side, in the hedges of the plantations and climbing the trees in the woods. It is the wine Grape of the south and some of the best wines made in this country are produced from varieties of this family, They have not been planted extensively and their superior qualities are but little known. One of the characteristics of the Aestivalis is the manner in which its roots push down into the ground instead of spreading around near the surface of the soil, thereby withstanding the most severe drought without any effect detrimental to the continuous growth of the vines. This species requires a long season and productive climate to mature and therefore their culture has been limited. The berries are without pulp and contain a large percentage of sugar. The principal varieties of this species now cultivated are : CYNTHIANA, HERMAN, CUMMINGHAM, HERBEMONT, DEVEREUX, LENOIR, EUMELAN, LOuISIANA, ELSINBURG, NorTON’S VA. OUR NATIVE GRAPE, 9 Norton’s Va. and Cynthiana besides being the best wine Grapes of America, are also very fine table Grapes. All of these varieties are more or less subject to mildew and rot. Vitis Labrusca. To this species belongs the largest number of our cultivated varieties. Our most - popular table Grapes are crosses of Labrusca with varieties of better classes. Its home is between the Atlantic ocean and the Alleghany mountains. The vine is strong and stocky, hardy and productive; the roots are fibrous, heavy branching and abundant. The fruit is ofsuperior size with a foxy flavor, which, however, has mostly disappeared in some of the newly introduced varieties. It is easy to propagate from cuttings and also an excellent stock for grafting, Some of the varieties furnish the bulk of our most popular wines, though for wines of finer qualities the Aestivalis is far superior. For table use, Labrusca and its improved varieties will always have the preference. Vitis Riparia. This species is adapted to almost every kind of soil, except heavy clay. The roots are tough and growrapidly. The flavor of the fruit is vinous and pure. The fruit contains sufficient sugar for a good wine, but it requires age to develop their qualities. All the best Grapes for white wine such as Elvira, Missouri, Riessling, etc., belong to this class. It also includes a few varieties of black Grapes which produce a fine red wine. Clinton, which belongs to this class, is known to almost everybody. Vitis Rotundifolia. This is entirely confined to the Southern states and is very characteristic in its appearance. Its leaves are small, round and shining. The fruit is not formed in bunches, but grows in large, thick-skinned and pulpy berries. The Scuppernong, Flowers, Tender Pulp and Thomas are the varieties under cultivation. For a long time the first named has been considered the only valuable Grape for the south, but they never have proved profitable enough to plant on a largescale. The Scuppernong has no commercial value as it cannot bear transportation, while it makes a splendid wine, though deficient in sugar, it is very sweet having but little acid. Hybrids. A vine or plant produced by the mixture of two species is called a Hybrid. This operation can be performed artificially or by nature. This hydridizing by nature is mostly done by insects carrying pollen from one flower to another. A cross is the production of two varieties of the same species. For instance Diamond was produced by crossing—Concord with Iona. Concord is a Labrusca while Iona is a seedling of Catawba, which also belongs to the Labrusca species. The operation in hybridizing and crossing is the same, but the results obtained are different. The seed of a berry will never produce the same Grape from which it was taken. as always more or less hybridization has been done by nature. Plants thus obtained are often called seed- lings, though by right they are either hybrids or crosses. IO OUR NATIVE GRAPE. PROPAGATION. another and this new vine being apart of the parent vine is like it in all re- spects ; the same habit and constitution, the same bark, foliage and fruit. The several methods of propagating, are by cuttings, grafting or by layering. One of the cheapest and easiest methods by which to get a start in Grape culture, is propagating by cuttings. To have good results take cuttings from thrifty, well- ripened, close-jointed wood, avoiding all spindling twigs or reedy-like canes. Grape cuttings should be made just as soon as possible after the wood is cut from the vines, for if it is left in the wind and snow for any length of time it will dry out more or less to its detriment. If not convenient to cut up at once, the wood should be gath- ered into bundles and put into the cellar or some other convenient place out of the wind, Vf me propagating a Grapevine we simply make a new vine from a part of Propagating from Short Cuttings. With new varieties, where wood is still scarce, the propagating can be done by using one eye cuttings. These should be cut about two or three inches long ; one eye on the top is sufficient. It is not necessary to have an eye below as they will strike root just as well, if not better, with one, and this is true of all kinds of cuttings without any exception. These cuttings should be put in propagating beds in a green-house the middle of February. Set them upright in rather coarse, clean sand down to the top bud. The sand should be rather compact than loose. To drive out roots bottom heat is necessary and it should remain for a few days at 60 degrees, then raised to 75 or 80 degrees during the day time and not below 65 degrees at night. The top heat should be kept about ten or fifteen degrees lower than the bottom heat by ventilation and shade. If there is | sufficient ventilation no mildew or damping off will occur. \ The cuttings must be kept always moist by frequent sprinkling. 7 Some varieties will root in three weeks or less, while others may take twice as long. After the cuttings have rooted and the buds driven out the first leaves, the cuttings should be taken from the propagating bed and potted singly in a small pot (thumb pot.) An average heat of 70 degrees during day time and 55 degrees at night is sufficient for their growth. About three weeks later these small pots will be completely filled with roots and the young plants should be shifted into a larger pot, where they will increase in size. As soon as all danger from night frosts is over the vines should be planted out in open SHORT CUTTINGS. ground. Nothing is gained by setting out at an earlier period. In planting choose a plot of rather sandy soil, heavy soil will not do; trench it deeply and mix it with thoroughly rotted manure. Plant the young vines in rows two and one-half feet apart and six inches apart in the rows. After shaking the plants from the pots, lay the vines in trenches made by the spade or plow, using the earth thrown out to fill in again where the young plants are placed. Always be care- A OUR NATIVE GRAPE. Ir ful to have the soil firm around the plants. In dry weather at planting time water the plants thoroughly before taking them from the pots. The vines will soon get established in the open ground. They make rapid growth and strong plants are obtained by fall in a favorable season. A thorough cultivation is necessary for suc- cess. These vines are then called yearlings. If intended to remain in the ground another season, the young growth should be cut back to two buds, the soil plowed up to them and a light covering of coarse manure for mulching given. In the following spring the manure will be raked off thus uncovering the plants. As soon as warm weather sets in, buds will begin to swell and soon throw out new shoots. Only two canes should be allowed to grow in order to strengthen both the rocts and the tops. Cultivating and hoeing several times during the growing season will produce strong, thrifty and healthy plants by fall, which are then dug up and stored in a cool cellar during the winter. Long Cuttings. For out-door planting the cuttings should be made six or eight inches long; if short-jointed there may be three or four eyes to a cutting; if long-jointed there will be sometimes but two eyes. Cut close below the lower eye and slanting at right angles with the bud, one half inch above the upper bud, in like man- ner, slanting so that the upper point is on the same side as the bud. The cuttings should be tied up in bundles of fifty and may then be preserved in a cool cellar, buried in moderately dry sand or laid on the floor and covered with damp sawdust or moss. Excessive dryness or dampness are equally to be avoided, keep the temperature low, but not low enough to freeze the liquids in the cuttings. As soon as the frost is out of the ground the cuttings intended for out-door propagation should be put in bundles in trenches in a warm sunny spot with the top ends down and about two inches of earth covering the top of the bundles. By the time the ground is ready for the cuttings, which should rot be until the soil has become dry and warm, al¥of the cut ends will be calloused and covered over with a nice growth of fine rootlets, which will give them a quick and vigorous start when put into the ground. A better and heavier root growth is then secured, than would be if the tops or branch ends of the cuttings are allowed to start first, as is the case when the cuttings go direct from the cellar to the open ground for planting. This also enables the propagator to throw out all the poor or dead wood, saving for planting only those which Bal show life and vigor. LONG CUTTINGS. For planting out follow the same directions as given for one eye cuttings only that the cuttings, when placed in the trench, should stand at an angle like one side of a letter V, and also have the end buds, which should be out of the soil, uppermost. The end cut with the slant will throw the rain away from the bud, thus preventing rot. Propagation by Layering. Layering is a method of propagating plants by burying a cane while still attached to and sustained by the parent vine. For layering select a cane of well ripened wood that will bear being bent down to the earth without breaking Remove the earth to the depth of two or three inches, then carefully bend the cane into the earth, secure 2 5 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. it in that position by a peg, and cover it over with only a very little earth. At every joint young roots will be driven out and the buds will develop into leaves. After the shoots have grown three or four inches in height, select the strongest ones to remain LAVERED CANE. LAYERED CANE WITH GROWING SHOOTS. and break off all those of weaker growth, thus enabling the remaining shoots to obtain additional strength. Every bud on the cane will make a plant, but not of equal vigor, and the less number growing on the cane the better will be the result. The remaining plants should be supplied with stakes, as soon as sufficiently high to be tiedup. More soil can now be drawn into the trench and every week, while hoe- ing, more soil can be added until the trench is filled up. Filling up too quickly will cause the cane below the ground to rot. Frequent cultivating and hoeing and alsoa light mulching will be found beneficial. At the end of the first season these plants can be separated from the parent vine by commencing with the vines nearest the original one, and carefully digging up and storing away in a cool cellar for next season’s planting, Root Grafting. This method of grafting will be interest- ing for experiment with varieties that are difficult to propagate from cuttings, which do not easily form their own roots. The junc- tion is effected after the ordinary manner of whip-grafting, but the tongue is cut in the center of the graft instead of at its end. The grafts con- sist of pieces of root about a quarter of an inch in diameter, which can be obtained from young vines when taken up in the fall. These roots may be stored away in a cool celler in damp sand or moss until wanted for operation. If the cuttings of the Grape to be grafted are long-jointed only one eye to the cutting is necessary, while two eyes are needed for short-jointed wood. The root graft should be cut sufficiently long to permit of its. entering the ground to the same depth as the stock, thus affording an independent source of nourish- ment to the graft until firmly united and enable it to make roots and also draw sap from the stock. After joining the graft with the cutting, tie firmly with waxed thread. These cuttings can be started at once in a propagating bed by placing them up- righ; in boxes with damp sand. If given a mod- erate heat they will begin to grow and when warm weather has arrived be in fine condition to From AMERICAN GARDENING: ‘Copyrighted. transplant in the-open ground. By fall many ROOT GRAFTING. good strong plants are obtained by this method. OUR NATIVE GRAPE. T3 HyBRIDIZING. HE production of new varieties of fruits, etc., by crossing and hybridizing is a } favorite line of work with many progressive horticulturists and altogether an interesting subject of study. But the path of the hybridizer is not always strewn with roses, especially such as are free from thorns, and the reward of brilliant results, or the pay financially, for the labor is frequently not forthcom- ing. The idea prevails, that only a few skillful horticulturists can do it, but really the operation is very simple. All the knowledge required is enough understanding of botany to know the difference between the stamen and pistil, and all the skill needed is a reasonably steady hand. The tools are few and plain. A small, soft, well-pointed camels hair brush, a pair of sharp, fine-pointed scissors, that cuts well at the extreme points, and fine, thin, light muslin or cheese cloth, or tissue paper to carry the pollen. Hybridizing, or cross-fertilizing to be successful, should be done when the vines are in full health and vigor and before they have become exhausted by blooming. No guess work should be allowed, but everything should be done thoroughly so that when a cross is made we may be absolutely certain as to the parentage. Furthermore, we should not expect that all our attempts will be successful, for we have to bear many disappointments and failures. In this work nature has yet many things hidden for us to bring to light. The parts of a flower are in their order, beginning at the stem, calyx, coralla, stamen and pistil. The calyx is the outer envelope, usually green; the coralla is composed of several leaves called petals. These parts are simply ornamental ; the useful and necessary parts, and those with which we have mostly to deal, are the stamens and pistils. The stamens are the parts which bear the fine dust Known as pollen. Their form is a slender stem bearing a head, shaped something like a kernel which is called the anther, and which, when ripe, bursts and scatters the pollen. This latter is a fine granular dust, quite often yellow, but sometimes brown, white, &c. The pistil is the part bearing the seed. At its base is a pod known as the ovary which when in proper condition to receive the pollen from the anther is usually slightly sticky. From this ovary the fruit is formed. The operation is performed as follows: In the selection of varieties to hybridize select those which combine hardiness, quality, earliness, &c. Choose flowers of these varieties which open nearly at the same time. As soon as the flowers are opened sufficiently cut off every stamen with the scissors and tie a small bag of gauze cloth carefully over the flowers to prevent meddling by insects. ‘Cover also the other flowers which are to be fertilized, in the same way and for the same reason, but do not cut off the stamen. As soon as the latter flowers burst the pollen take off the gauze bags and with the aid of the camel’s hair brush take some of the pollen and place it on the stigmas or extreme ends of the pistils in the flowers from which the stamen was cut, and replace the gauze bags after this operrtion. Flowers on Grape- vines do not open all at one time; care should therefore be taken that all the flowers are fertilized. The operation should be repeated several times, as very often the stigma is not properly fertilized the first time. It is also a good plan to thin out some of the flowers to give the berries more room to grow larger and perfect. The fruit Ig OUR NATIVE GRAPE. from these fertilized flowers will set as usual and should be allowed to ripen perfectly. As soon as the Grapes are gathered, the seeds should be separated from the pulp and placed in boxes with sand during the winter in the cellar. The seeds may be planted’ the following spring in the open ground as soon as the weather is warm. Plant in drills three feet apart and the young plant should be treated the same way as those raised from cuttings. By proper care fruit can be expected the fourth year after planting the seeds. All our best varieties of Grapes have been obtained by this opera- tion, though some are chance seedlings which were produced from berries accidently dropped. The Production of New Seedling Grapes. By DR. J. STAYMAN, LEAVENWORTH, KANSAS. It is a well known fact that the selection of seeds from the best specimens is the only sure method of producing improved varieties. It then follows, as a corollary, that the only certain and successful way to grow those seeds is to fertilize their bloom with the pollen of congenial, characteristic, healthy, desirable varieties. Many of our best Grapes are the result of ‘‘ chance seedlings,’’ as the Catawba, Isabella, Delaware and Norton Virginia. These Grapes, while good for certain purposes and locations, did not fully meet the requirements of our progressive age and refined tastes. We had become acquainted with the fine quality of European Grapes and, in our eager desire to possess those of such excellence, we sought hybridi- zation as the only sure method of producing them. We never considered for a moment by what method and how long a time it took to originate them. It is very certain that we have no account of its being done by hybridization or forced crossing, as these methods were then unknown. It then must have been the result of domesti- cation and natural congenial pollenization. Hybridization is a violent, forced fertilization and is seldom, if ever, congenial ; nature seldom, if ever, employs it, or there would be no distinctive species. We hope by these brief introductory remarks that we are fully understood. There are two well known theories given for the production of improved fruits, one by Dr. Monz, of Belgium, the other by Thos. Andre Knight, Esq., of England. The former advocates the planting of the seeds of wild varieties that have been domesticated or cultivated, and then plant their seeds and continue that method through successive generations until you get what you desire. This method does not answer our advanced and progressive age, and at the best it is too slow and uncertain. * The latter method, by Mr. Knight, is by cross breeding and hybridization, which so far has been tolerably successful in the production of new flowers and plants, but we have few fruits produced by it of very great merit. The difficulty appears to be that we have no way to determine the congenial pollen for any flower. It is left entirely to the imagination of the operator. This is proven by the results, as well as by the fact that the pollen of a flower will not always fertilize its own bloom. This has been frequently observed in Staminate Strawberries that have sufficient pollen to fertilize other varieties, while it fails to pollenize its own bloom, showing clearly a want of congeniality. This being true, how can we know or determine the congenial pollen for. any flower to produce a given result. Then we need not wonder that chance seedlings produce more blanks than prizes. Having shown the difficulty in both of these methods, we will give what has proven to be successful and satisfactory with us, not only satisfactory, but the most remarkable and surprising in its results. OUR NATIVE GRAPE. IG If we had every species and every variety of Grapes at our command, and the selection of pollen from all, and the mother plant also, we cannot see how we could accomplish the same results with such a degree of certainty and in such a short time. To produce hardy and productive seedling Grapes from our native varieties and species, of as high character as the European Grapes, appears impossible, yet it has been done. To show that this is the case, we will give the facts, and let the reader draw his own conclusion. About fifty years ago, Mr. John Burr, then a resident of Columbus, Ohio, com- menced the production of Seedling Strawberries, using selected seed from the few varieties then in existence. In this he was so successful that the Cincinnati Horti- cultural Society, of which he was a member, awarded him the honor of having produced the finest Jot of seedlings, among which was ‘‘Burr’s New Pine,’’ which is to this day considered the highest standard of excellence. Having been so success- fulin the production of Strawberries from so few and indifferent varieties, it is no wonder that he should have been sanguine that he could produce similar results with Grapes. He planted on his lot the Catawba, Isabella, Bland, Delaware, Hartford, Prolific and Concord, and soon added the Salem and Gcethe, with these few varieties he commenced, not even a neighbor vine was near to mar his operations. He first tried the Concord, but soon found that it had no congeniality to other better kinds, and was not very susceptible to improvement, so he took the Delaware, a much weaker grower, but of much higher quality, and in his first effort he produced the ‘‘ Karly Victor,’’? which is a strong grower, very productive, and of very good quality. ‘This showed that he had struck the key-note to success, namely, that weak varieties were very easily impressed by stronger varieties, but very strong and positive varieties very seldom, if ever, by very weak varieties. From this fact and data, he soon discarded those that proved unworthy, until now he has but few on his list, except his own seedlings. But the most remarkable fact connected with this is that he has produced so many hardy varieties, with such a high per cent. of fine qualities and so few indifferent. Out of some twenty or more growing on our grounds, nearly all are of high quality. We know the source of some of them, but how and from what his ‘‘ Eclipse, Paragon, Matchless, Omega, Cochee’’ and ‘‘ Primate’’ came we cannot even imagine, as he never had such Grapes upon his lot, and there is no other source from which they could possibly have come. This same improvement bids fair to continue as long as the same method is pursued. We have dwelt more particularly upon Mr. Burr’s success, as his method is the same as our own, and our first success was made with the same variety. Our grounds, however, are much larger, the vines planted much farther apart, the varieties more numerous, the type of many more positive andthe results are a greater departure from the original types. We have the pure, wild A‘stivalis, Labrusca and Riparia, as well as the best and most refined ; the feeble grower and the most vigorous and rampant from the same variety of seed. While, in some other instances, the type is so exact that it is with difficulty that we can tell the one from the other, while others do not apper to be succeptible to ourimprovement. From these observations and results, we believe the time is not far distant when we will produce as fine and excellent Grapes as the European varieties. In a great measure we have to acknowledge the perseverance of many of our professional propagators, who through proper, careful operations in hybridizing, have given to the public at large so many improved and superior varieties, which aimost every inhabitant of this Union now enjoys, and with which the name of the origina- tor will be forever connected. 16 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. Proposition to Protect the Originators. All our originators of new varieties have not derived the benefit, compensation and protection by law for their long years of labor that is accorded an inventor who often obtained his invention by mere accident. A patent will protect him for years, securing for him pecuniary benefits as long as his patent holds good. What protection has the originator of new plants and fruits? Such originators have as much right to protection as inventors of anything else. It takes years and years for the originator of a new variety of Grapes to determine the fruits of his labor and he ought to be entitled to some pay for all the time and trouble spent to develop the Grape. This is an age of progress and improvement. In the horticultural world this progress has been marked and rapid and one need not go back to observe the advance which has been made, particularly in the originating from seed and the process of hybridization of new and superior varieties. Protection would be an in- centive to extensive and systematic experimenting, which would, without doubt, result in producing valuable additions to our fruits. Many notorious swindles in horticulture have been caused by the lack of exclusive rights to new productions. A favorite trick of unscrupulous parties in the trade is to substitute old sorts for some new, rare variety under the name of the latter. Of course several years will elapse before the purchasers can find out that they have not the product of nature they bought. How can these evils be remedied? By a law making the trial of all new varieties at the Experiment Stations compulsory before allowing them to be introduced, in order to determine, if they are really new and have merit. If, after due investigation, the new plant or fruit is accepted, the originator should be granted a certificate, which would secure him the exclusive right to propagate and sell the same for a term of years, Without the right to renewal. This would give him sufficient time to prepare stock for the market and an abundance of time in which to enjoy the privileges of exclusive sale, and he in turn would protect the people in its purchase in order to protect himself in its sale. Further, the law should guarantee to the originator that in case plants or cuttings of the variety are stolen from him or the Experiment Stations and disseminated in that way, the stock shall be confiscated wherever found. The principal inducement for stealing new varieties, so frequently practiced, would then no longer exist. The purchaser of a plant entered under this act should have the right to propagate it for his own use but not to sell or disseminate it except by special arrangement with the originator. At the time of the purchase he should be furnished with a certificate of purchase by the vendor, who should keep an accurate record of the same as a means of protection to himself and to the purchaser. At any or all times before the expiration of the propagation right the possessor of a plant may be required to show how he came into possession or hold himseif responsible for violation of the law. All accepted new plants or fruits being registered and num- bered, very few plants or fruits could be sold which would not have the official name, number and description found upon the National register. There is reason to believe that the enactment of a law protecting originators would constitute one of the great- est benefits to horticulturists, and we hope that the time is not far off, when such steps will be taken as will protect and promote the origination of new fruit. OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 17 Rie Sore HE soil is a complicated subject that varies greatly in its nature in different S))) localities. Soils are classed for convenience as sandy, clayey, loamy and peaty soils. A SANDY soil is one which has a larger part of sand than other substances. Such a soil is easily plowed and cultivated, but dries out rapidly unless underlaid with a clay subsoil, and soon loses the manure put into it to feed crops. Sandy soils are generally warmer, start things into growth earlier than others, and are therefore often sought for early crops. A CLAYEY soil is one in which clay is the larger part. Clay soils retain moisture and are cold late in the spring. They also get very hard and difficult to cultivate in dry weather, and are generally the most difficult of all soils to improve. A LOAMY soil is one in which clay and sand are found in such proper proportions that they are easily worked, retain moisture, do not bake hard in dry weather, and generally contain more of the various elements of plant food than other soils. They are fitted for a greater range of crops than any other class of soils in the same region. PEATY soils are made up of decayed vegetable matter. They are generally found in swamps and low lands, and when there is a sufficient mixture of mineral matter may be very productive when drained of the surplus water, but usually a peaty soil is unproductive. They are often of great value when made into a compost with lime or ashes, for dressing other classes of soil for the purpose of adding vegetable matter to them. The SUBSOIL, or that part of the soil immediately under the cultivated soil, is of great importance to the grower. If the subsoil is such a hard clay that water cannot easily pass through it the upper soil may be kept wet and cold by it. If the subsoil is sand, water and manure put on the land soon break away out of the reach of the crops. It is desirable then that this subsoil should be open enough to let water through easily but compact enough to take and retain moisture and plant food. A mellow loam on such a subsoil is the best possible soil for all farming operations. Grapes will thrive both in sand and clay, in fact, in almost every mixture. The old idea that Grapes thrive best on light land is mainly due to the fact that such soils are naturally dry and warm. While a heavy clay is not best for the Grape, it is not an obstacle which must be overcome for success in vineyarding. but it should be thoroughly underdrained. Grape growing is possible under a wider range of condi- tions and soil than is the case with any other crop. The one thing that Grape roots cannot abide is stagnant water. No matter if it dries out in midsummer it is then past the power of the vine to regain lost time. Land thoroughly drained, to the depth of three feet, warm more quickly in the spring and makes a difference in tem- perature of five to ten degrees or more at the time when the vine most needs warmth. Each individual grower should depend more on his own experience in the culti- vation of fruits or on that of his neighbor, than an opinion obtained from a distance. Good corn land as a rule, is suitable for Grapes, -provided the climate and location are right. 18 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. VINEYARD PLANTING. UCCESSFUL Grape growing always involves care, expense and above all well experienced management. Location, soil, climate and selection of varieties are allimportant. For garden culture we have but little choice to make, for we have to plant our Grapes where the gardens are or do without them. In planting a vineyard it is nccessary in the first place to make a selection of a location and soil. Location and Soil. It is true that some varieties of Grapes will grow and mature in almost every state of the Union, but to insure a crop one danger has to be guarded against, that is the late spring frosts, which will injure the young, tender shoots. With the freezing of these shoots the hope of any crop is destroyed. It is always best to locate vine- yards where they can have a full and free circulation of air, not only as a protection from frosts, but also from the excessive humidity that in wet and warmer sections, develops the fungus diseases. The selection of a location near by some deep water, which, being unfrozen, will moderate the temperature several miles inland. Our best crops, and most Grapes for market, are grown along the shores of the small lakes. A vineyard should not be planted in a low, damp location. Grapes succeed best on high, dry, well-drained ground. Itis a well established fact that the southern slope of a hill with a clay subsoil well drained, is the best location in which to grow Grapes. The best conditions are warm soil, dry, elevated, sunny hillsides in a tem- perate climate. It should be remembered that the grape requires a daily warm temperature of fifty-five degrees dnring the months of May and June and for the maturing months of July, August and September, an average of not less than sixty- five degrees of temperature or there can be no success. Where the temperature for the growing period averages sixty-five or seventy degrees and that of the maturing period seventy-five or eighty degrees fruit of the most excellent kind can be procured. All the varieties, in the time of ripening, depend upon this and the amount of rain fall. The quality and richness of the Grape depends upon the amount of sugar the fruit contains and this again upon the high mean temperature under which the seeds are formed and the Grape matured. Our native varieties of Grapes are found growing wild in a great variety of soil, thus showing their adaptation to a wide range. Soils containing more or less clay with a mixture of rotten shale, small stones, limestone, etc., are considered the best. gravelly and sandy soil, sandy loam are also well adapted. In fact any soil that can grow a good farm crop can successfully grow Grapes, if climate and exposure are favorable As it is expected that a vineyard is to occupy the land for many years, the depth and thoroughness of the preparation of the soil cannot be too strongly emphasized. If the subsoil is clayey or of a tenacious character, the whole section to be planted should be deeply subsoiled and heavily fertilized with manures of the best quality, such as ashes and ground bones. Subsoiling does not bring the subsoil to the surface, OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 19 but merely loosens it up so that the roots of the plants can penetrate it. The subsoil plow consists of a small plow not much larger than the tooth of a horse-hoe set upon a stout standard about two feet long, or even more in a large size. The furrow is turned with an ordinary plow and then another team attached to the subsoil plow follows after the first, and the plow is put down as deep as desired in the same furrow. Then upon this loosened subsoil the last furrow is thrown and each furrow is treated in the same way. It is of great value in a clay subsoil. for the loosening affords more opportunity for rain, frost and heat to penetrate the earth and under their influence the elements of fertility, that have soaked down in the subsoil, are made available to SUBSOIL PLOW. the plant roots, which can now find their way down there. The use of this plow is therefore very beneficial in land where there is a hard clay subsoil, but where the surface soil rests upon a layer of sand or gravel it is not needed. Deep plowing enables the surface soil to appropriate fertility and moisture, both from considerable depth in the soil and from the air. The preparation should be commenced a year, or at least the previous fall, before planting the vines. After plowing and subsoiling the whole area of the proposed vineyard, the ground should be thoroughly pulverized SPADING HARROW. and harrowed over. It has been customary, on this class of work, to break up the lumps with heavy rollers and pulverize afterwards with a common drag. We have 20 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. now, however, a spading harrow, and it is surprising with what rapidity this harrow will cut up and pulverize lumpy, hard ground. With the weight of the driver on it, it will soon pulverize any ordinary ground and it must be extremely hard ground if it does not penetrate at least six inches. The ground will be left as smooth as after a spike or spring-tooth harrow and not in ridges or furrows. To facilitate planting the lands should be plowed just the width of the rows apart, which will bring the vines to be set out in the dead furrow. Then very little digging is required for the holes in which to plant the vines, which should be about twelve to fifteen inches deep, depending on the size of the rooted cuttings and should be at least that depth below the level surface of the ground in ordinary soil. The culti- vation during the season will fill up the dead furrow. Holes should be dug large enough so the roots can spread naturally without one root crossing the other. In dry days it is better not to have many holes dug ahead of the planting, as the earth will be more moist if freshly dug. Put the finest and best earth at the bottom of the hole and among the roots and the coarsest and poorest on the top. The next important step to be taken is the selection of roots. The planting of a vineyard is for a lifetime and therefore the difference of a few dollars on the thousand vines should not influence anybody to buy from unknown or irresponsible propa- gators. There are many good and reliable nurserymen all over the country, who make a specialty of growing Grapevines for vineyard planting. The most experienced | vineyardists prefer well rooted, strong, first- class one year old vines from long cuttings, though some use vines two yearsold. These cuttings generally have from four to six good healthy roots with plenty of smaller fibrous ‘roots attached to them. The tops of the cuttings should be from six to ten inches long according to the length of the joints a = and should have not more than three eyes. \ , + \ | Before planting the roots should be pruned (S. DOAN NS to about eight inches, which will give usa / My é 5 s V4! Ny IN | ict \ \' diameter of root surface of sixteen inches, rv FAR YO e) WAL ACVIQNS also all bruised roots should be carefully cut yer . ? | smooth, The object of pruning the roots is A, | se to render them not alone more convenient for planting but also to incite the under roots WELL-ROOTED VINE. to throw out new ones. To keep the roots from drying out they should be covered with moist moss and only taken out as fast as wanted for planting. Planting. Place some vines in a pail of water thus insuring that none shall get dry before planting. The holes having been dug large enough to completely take in the roots so the crown will come a trifle below the surface, when covered over. The roots must be carefully spread out, each one in place, and not in a heap or cramped up in a hole. A doubled-up root will not make a good healthy vine. Cover the roots with fresh surface soil, slightly raise and shake the vine so as to allow the fine soil to settle among the roots, and press it thoroughly down with the foot, put in a handful of good fertilizer, taking care not to have it too near the roots because it is liable to burn them. This mistake is often made. Fill the holes to within two TYEAR VINE TIED TO A STAKE. OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 2r or three inches of the top of the plant. After-cultivation will gradually fill in the balance, as the growth of the vine proceeds. Deep planting secures a tier of roots so deep down that there is little danger of serious danger by freezing, even if the surface roots are destroyed. A stake should be set by the vine to remain till posts are needed. As soon as the vines start to grow select the most vigorous shoots and rub off all the others, allowing but the one shoot to grow the first season. The appearance of the opening buds are watched with care. Keep the shoot carefully tied to the stake as it advances in growth, and as side shoots start out from it pinch their tips as soon as they have made one leaf, so as to concentrate all the strength of the vine to the one cane. By giving this shoot the whole growth a strong vine can be produced at the end of the season. If the soil is thoroughly plowed the roots can pene- trate through it. During the first year after planting nothing will be required but to keep the ground free from weeds and grass. Vineyards, as arule, are not kept cultivated. By having the vines at least eight feet apart each way, cultivators and harrows can be freely used, and there is no excuse for weeds. The vines respond to this thorough cultivation in a remarkable manner. Let the ground be given up entirely to the vines and no attempt made to double-crop it. For the first year it may do to grow potatoes or other crops in the vine- yard, that need cultivating during the season, but not thereafter. Hoeing around the vines, especially in dry weather, is the best stimulant, and mulching with coarse manure will help to retain moisture for the roots and is far better GANG PLOW. than watering. With proper care and cultivation the vines should have obtained a growth from three to five feet the first season. In the fall, after the canes have perfectly ripened and the leaves dropped off, cut back the new growth, leaving 22 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. only three or four buds. Plow up to the vines after being pruned, by using a gang plow. The object of this plowing is not to keep the frost from the vines, but rather to keep them frozen all winter. It is the alternate freezing and thawing, not the steady cold, that injures the vines. It is not necessary to cover deep. The roots also are thoroughly protected during the winter. Second Year. In the following spring, as soon as the frost is out of the ground and before the buds start, uncover the vines by gently lifting them with a flat-tined fork out of the earth that encases them. Sow broadcast some good fertilizer (about 600 pounds to the acre). Use again the gang plow, but plow from the vines, which will work the ferti- lizer in. For this work the spading-harrow is also used with great success, as reverse irons are furnished with the harrow, whereby the gangs can be easily reversed to throw the soil from the vines cultivating the ground thoroughly, whether throwing the soil to or from the roots of the vines. As soon as warm weather sets in the buds will begin to start and when the new shoots have grown a few inches rub off all but two, leaving the strongest to form canes for fruiting the next year. These two canes can be trained the same way as the single one was trained last season by tying to the small stake. No fruit ought to be allowed to grow this year. If the posts are set and the wires put up the second season one of these canes can be trained to lay on the right and the other on the left side from the cane extending vertically to the first wire, Cultivate and harrow again as much as first year, each time in uniform depths. Do not cultivate shallow one time and deep the next, but keep up an even cultivation, on which the life of the vine depends. Vacancies should be filled as early as the weather will permit. It is found very often that some vines will show weakness in growing; the tops of these vines should be pruued closer, and by giving them some manure, the main strength will goto the roots. Attention must be paid to what is below the ground as well as on top. If the roots are strong, the tops will also be strong and thrifty. At the close of the season, after the leaves have fallen from the vines and before winter sets in, the vines shonld be pruned according to the strength of the vine, each cane to six or eight buds. Do not neglect to plow up to the vines. Trellises. It has been the practice with vineyardists in the Southern States, where the sea- sons are longer and the vines make a miore rapid growth the first year, to put up trellises the second season, and posts are placed in position during the fall or winter of the first season ; at the north, however, not until the following spring as soon as the frost is out of the ground. Posts made of either chestnut, oak, white or red OGR IN -ATAVAE EG fed Pee. 23 cedar are the most preferable and should be at least eight feet long, six feet above ground after being set two or two and a half feet in the ground according to soil and location, and should be set in rows running north and south if possible. The end post should be the strongest and well braced to withstand the stretching of the wires ~ tightly. After the posts have been sharpened on one end, they are ready for setting. The quickest and best way to dig a hole is with a bar made for the work. The holes should be twenty-four feet apart, thus having three vines between two posts, if the vines are eight feet apart in the row ; other distances in planting in proportion. The posts are dropped in the holes and afterwards settled down by sledges. Two men in a wagon driven between the rows can drive the posts on either side to the desired depth. The wires are fastened to the posts by one and three-fourths or two inch staples, which are driven only part way in to allow the wire to be stretched tight. The first or bottom wire is placed two and one-half feet from the ground. Stretch IMPROVED WIRE STRETCHER. the wire with a contrivance made for this purpose. The second wire or top wire should be also two and one-half feet above the first wire, or where three wires are used, the second fifteen to eighteen inches above the first and the third the same distance from the second. The two wires will be found sufficient, although some prefer the third. The wires must be drawn as tightly as they will bear, so they cannot sag under the weight of the fruit. Number nine or eleven steel, annealed wire is gen- erally used, which will stretch nineteen feet to the pound in the vineyard. The posts can be made to last much longer by painting the ends which go in the ground with Carbolineum Avenaris, a wood-preserving paint, which was invented by a prominent Grape grower on the Rhine and used with highly satisfactory results on vineyard- posts, stakes, etc., and positively prevents rot and decay below the ground or water. If the posts were set equally distant, beginning on the same line the vineyard will be divided into sections, and the space between the end posts in one section and the end posts in the adjoining section will leave a space for a roadway which will be con- venient in gathering the crop. It is a part of every spring’s work to drive the posts as soon as weather permits, to make the posts set firm. Tightening of the wires must be also seen to every spring. Third Year. The horizontal canes which have been cut back in the fall are tied to the lower wire. In tying vines to the wires, the string or whatever is used, should not be drawn tight but sufficient space given for the vines to grow. The tying up of Grapevines has been always an item of considerabie expense to the vineyardist. The enormous demand for tying material, and the fact that such material as is now in use is so perishable and expensive, makes it a point of consideration in saving a share of this outlay in Grape growing. Willows are used for the so-called first tying, which takes 24 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. place in the spring before the vines begin to start. The prices of willows, however, have increased the past few years so enormously, on account of being used for other purposes to a greater extent, that other substitutes have been hunted up. Twine, wire, or trimmings of cotton goods have been tried to replace the willow, but the extra expense in the manipulation of tying has almost condemned these substitutes. The advisability of producing something better and cheaper than willows, and which could be more rapidly applied to the wire, has been introduced by the Rochester Radiator Company of Rochester, N. Y. This holder is made from galvanized steel wire, which will hold vines ranging from one-fourth to five-eighths of an inch in diameter. When the vineyardist trains Ce vines, instead of leaving the remaining canes pe the ground : BS device for holding it, ae but a moment to fasten the canes of a vine to the wire, thus saving an extra man to follow up the trimmer ; an ordinary man can place the vines on the wire at the rate of five acres per day. Willows, as it is well known, can be used but once and a new lot has to be procured for another season’s tying. These vineholders will save this expense, as once equipped they will last at least five years. The new canes at the next sea- son’s pruning can be easily placed on the wires. The cost of this SSS8 labor, time and money saving device is less than the price of GRAPEVINE willows for one season, and taking into consideration that the HOLDER. holders will last for several years, they are much cheaper. Four of the devices are required for one vine, if pruned on the Renewal system, while eight will do for the Kniffin system. Fertilize and cultivate as directed for the second season. When the buds have well started train the shoots or laterals upright to the second wire, leaving only three (2 APS, = 2 RE by as VINE BEARING FIRST CROP. of the strongest on each cane to grow. Each of these shoots will bear three clusters, making eighteen clusters to the vine, about one-third of a full crop. The number of bunches which a vine will produce, may therefore be estimated with a considerable degree of accuracy in advance. The crop can be regulated to suit the capacity of each vine, as indicated by its vigor. If not vigorous the crop should be reduced by the entire removal of some of the laterals. It is advisable to cut out some of the smaller clusters and let only the best ones remain this season, thus strengthening the vine and preventing injury by overbearing, which will insure a good crop the next year. Buds starting out from the vertical cane should all be rubbed off except the two strongest ones, which will be used for fruit canes This pruning just described is known as the ‘‘Renewal System, ’’ and OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 25 mostly used in Western New York and Ohio. The different systems will be described in another chapter. One of the greatest labor-saving tools ever invented for use in the culture of Grapes is the Morgan Grape hoe. After cultivating between the rows this hoe will GRAPE HOE. take out all grass and weeds that remain under the wires and around vines and posts and will stir the soil close to the vine. Without any careful attention to driving the hoe is guided in and out around post and vine by the disc castor wheel to which a handle is attached. The horse is hitched on one side of the pole, which gives plenty of room for the plow to work under the vines and without injury to them by horse or whiffletree. The saving of time and labor will soon pay the cost of this tool, for this work is usually done by hand-hoeing, a slow and expensive way. Fourth Year. If vines have strong and healthy growth the previous season an increased crop can be expected if everything is favorable. All the old bearing wood from last year should be cut out. The canes intended for fruiting can be allowed a larger number of buds, to increase the growth of laterals developing the clusters of Grapes. As soon as the laterals have attained sufficient growth, tie up carefully to the upper wire of the trellis, and pinch off the ends to throw the strength of the growth on the fruit. It will be well also to thin fruit by picking off the smallest and poorest bunches. Two tons per acre is expected to be a fair average crop and the less the number of clusters this weight can be put into, the more satisfactory will be the crop and the market returns for the same. The finest, best and largest fruit is produced upon the strongest shoots of the previous year’s growth. Cultivate and keep the vineyard clean from weeds and work into the soil during the season some wood ashes (about one-half ton per acre), which is very beneficial to Grapes, producing better quality. At the end of this season we find that the vine is now fully established and conse- queutly able to bear a full crop another season. The work to be done in the vineyard is precisely the same as last year, except that the fruit canes can be pruned now for a still larger crop. Selection of Varieties. Success in Grape culture requires that varieties should be selected which are especially adapted to the locality where they are grown, and that because a Grape does not succeed in one section, it is by no means certain that it may not be both 26 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. successful and valuable in another to which it is fitted naturally. The area of adaptation is evidently much wider for some varieties than others. The matter of adaptation should be considered as one of the most important points by the practical Grape grower. Concord, Worden, Moore’s Early, Diamond, Niagara, Lady Wood- ruff, Catawba, Delaware, Ulster and a few others are found more generally planted for vineyard use than any other variety. Catawba is for some sections too late, but if pleasant and sunny weather extends late into fall without unseasonable frosts or cold winds, the highly flavored sweetness and refreshing sprightliness is obtained, which its origin and nature require. Grapes intended for wine making are not always good table or market Grapes. The planter must use his own judgment, based mostly on the success of varieties already growing in his vicinity. The widely differing opinions which are expressed upon the character and value of our most popular Grapes seem almost unaccountable. Varieties have in some localities failed to justify the commendation which followed their introduction, while in other sections the same varieties are decidedly good and cannot, therefore be recommended for general culture. Imperfect Fertilization. Heavy rains at the time that Grapevines are in bloom are usually quite injurious. The nature of the injury is very strikingly exhibited by the cut of a cluster of Grapes made from nature. ‘The juicy Grape berry encloses the seed, and its principal use in the economy of the plant is to protect the seed. The fertilization results in the growth of the pulp as well as the perfection and growth of the seeds which it sur- rounds. When heavy rains prevail at blooming time the pollen is in great part washed away and but a few ovules are fertilized; the bunches are straggling and loose, as here shown. Many of the berries however, grow to an unusally large size, since the vine has few of them to support. These large berries are shown in our engraving ; the seeds in these, of which there are a full number, have been perfectly fertilized. Smaller berries in the cluster may be noticed, and these represent those that have but one or at most two seeds. The very small berries are entirely seedless. Brighton and Salem suffer most in this way, because their flowers are in the right condition if the anthers are ripe, and scatter the pollen at the time of a heavy rain. If for no other reason we should, on this account, have different varieties of Grapes that bloom at different times. OUR NATIVE GRAPE. IMPERFECT FERTILIZED BUNCH OF GRAPES. 27, 28 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. Grape Growinc at Home. HE home garden furnishes a source of ever-increasing and never-ending enjoy- Q))) ment. Good Grapes can be insured in the garden or elsewhere, in the near vicinity of the dwelling. This is a subject especially interesting to many residents in large towns and cities, where land is scarce and high, and the average tenant has a limited area of land at his disposel. Most garden soils are rich enough for Grapevines, but also should be dry and well drained; the location warm, sunny and airy. Ifnearabuilding, choose the south and east sides ; do not train on the building, but a few feet off, as there is a better circulation of air. Plant in thespring and plant deep, not less than fifteen inches. Select vines graded as first-class, one or two years old, and, if possible, choose those having many fiberous roots. Cut the roots back to twelve or fifteen inches and the tops to eight inches. Cover the root with surface soil, not letting any fresh manure come in contact. After six or eight inches of soil has been put on the roots, a covering of unrotted manure will serve as a mulch, and, later on, asa fertilizer. Broken bones are excellent to put near the roots in planting, and after the vine is old enough to bear, pour round the roots the soapsuds from the kitchen. The first two seasons after planting are given to growing new wood only, the first crop of fruit being borne the third season. The fruit of any one season comes from buds on the canes of the previous year’s growth. This growth of the last season is the new wood, and all former growth is known as the old wood. Vines eight feet apart each way are pruned, so as to leave not more than five nor less than two canes of new wood for bearing, each cane two and one-half to three feet long. Two canes are sufficient for the first crop of fruit. When planted, the vines should be cut back to two buds, both of which should grow. After they are about a foot long, the most vigorons one should be tied up to a stake and the weaker one broken off. The next season the vine should be pruned back again to two buds. If both show great vigor, the two canes might safely be allowed to grow, but if not, grow only one cane during the second season. ‘The third season the vine can be pruned back to about four buds, the two lower ones should be rubbed off, while the two upper buds, after starting to grow, will have more or less fruit, A trellis is generally preferred to stakes for training the vines. When only two vines are grown, set a post seven feet long, two and one-half feet deep, two feet from this plant a vine, four feet from the vine set another post, four feet from this another vine, and two feet from this the third post. To the post firmly nail three slats, each six- teen feet long by three inches wide, putting one slat at the top of the posts, one two feet from the ground, and the third between the others. When three or more vines are planted in each row, use No. 9 wire instead of slats, firmly bracing the end posts, A very simple summer house may be made by setting a post at each angle of an octagon, each side of which is eight feet, and plant the vines midway between the posts. Vines can easily be trained to form an admirable screen, which, with proper annual pruning, will be for a life-time a thing of beauty and a source of profit. For planting select early and hardy varieties, winter protection of the canes will not then be necessary. For black Grapes, Moore’s Early, Worden, Concord ; for red Grapes, Ulster, Wyoming, Deleware; and Diamond, Green Mountain and Duchess for white varieties. There are several fine later Grapes, but for the garden, try first the earliest sorts. If these succeed in all seasons, it is easy to add the later ones. OUR NATIVE (GRAPE. 29 PRUNING AND TRAINING. upon its present and future success than any other portion of the work. It commences at the very time the vine is selected and before planting Vines when first received should be properly pruned, cutting the top back to one or two buds on the new wood, then all roots should be cut back short enough that each root will assume its natural downward position when planted, and not be bent up at the endor cramped. A vine may grow and look well for a time, if simply thrown down and partially covered, but a neglect to properly prune and place the roots when plant- ing will be a failure in making a productive and lasting vineyard. ‘The first pruning of a young vineyard should not be for fruit, but merely a shaping of the vines to form the future crown of the plant, leaving bnt one or two spears about the height fo form the crown. The time to prune depends upon climate and location. In the far north, or where vines are laid down in the winter and covered, fall pruning is the best, for the wood is thus protected and ready for the early spring growth. In warmer climates, where vines are never injured by winter, pruning can be done any time before the vines show signs of life again, but it is more beneficial to the strength of the vine to prune as early as possible in the fall. Vines exposed to changes of climate and severe winters, spring pruning is the only safe policy, for the reason that vines cut in the fall are more liable to die back than when pruned in the spring, when the dead wood is easily detached. There are several good systems of pruning and training, each of which has its merits and advocates. A simple method, and one largely practised, is known as the Renewal System, which has been described under vineyard planting. ‘va PRUNING is a part of Grape culture that perhaps has a greater bearing Kniffin System. At the close of the first year, after the leaves have fallen, cut the vine back to about three buds. The second year the vine will make a strong growth and the simplest and best form is to train the vine to one cane, the strongest always selected, until a little above the top wire and then pinch the end off, and to the many laterals Wy —>>> —<————— ee ee THE KNIFFIN SYSTEM SINGLE CANE. or branches that will then put out on either side of the vine, save two, one on each side for the upper wire and the same for the lower wire and take off all the other laterals. At the close of the second year, when foliage has dropped, prune the hori- j0 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. zontal canes on the two wires to three buds each for fruiting. The management at the end of the third year is a little different still. The engraving shows the condition of the vine with its growth of wood from which has been taken a crop of fruit. The whole horizontal arms are pruned away each year after the third year, leaving a cane which comes out at the point, where the arm joins the main vine to replace the arm that is cut away and so on year after year, renewing the arm each year with the lateral allowed to grow for this purpose, tying it up in place to the old arm. Cut back to seven or eight buds according to the strength of the cane. If the vine is extra strong two upright canes can be grown 24 fl. instead of one. One having one arm to the left on the lower wire and one arm to the right on the lower wire and one arm to the left on the upper, both of which are on the Renewal plan. , Frequently will be seen two shoots come out of a fruit bud, one with two clusters and the other with three clusters. It is better to take out the one with the smallest clusters whether it be the one with two or the one with three clusters, and preserve the largest. The aim should be to grow nothing but prime clusters that will bring prime prices in market. It is better to destroy the poor clusters than offer them in market only to gain a bad reputation for both the Grape and the grower, which is sure to meet the following year. Fan System. This method of pruning and training vines is employed considerable in the Chautauqua region of Western New York. The first year, on planting the top is cut back to three or four buds. No other pruning is given this year. The second year cut back to five or six buds and when the new growth is about a foot long remove all but the three strongest shoots ; these are to be grown for canes for fruit bearing the third year. The third year tie up two best canes only, each three or four feet long. This year is the time for putting up the trellis on which three wires are used. The lower wire is fastened two feet from the ground, the second wire three and one-half feet, and the third wire at the top of the post. The fourth year from planting put up three or four canes, each three feet long. The fifth andeach year thereafter, put up five canes of three feet each, or not to OUR NATIVE GRAPE. Rr exceed forty-five buds, the canes being spread out like an opened fan. ‘The position will be somewhat as shown in the engraving, where the portion indicated by the letter ‘S’’ represents the permanent stock with three branches, and those parts marked FAN SYSTEM. ‘©’ the annual bearing canes. Only one or two canes are tied to the upper wire, the remainder being tied to the two lower wires. The object is to get on all the space between the upper and lower wires, an even distribution of the new growth and of the fruit. Munson Alternate Renewal System. It’ is well demonstrated that American vines generally give best results when the bearing wood is renewed alternately from one side of the vine to the other, and a few arms are preserved rather than many short ones. ‘This system is designed to accom- plish this with the least expense as well as to form a shading canopy for the roots, body and fruit of the vine, and at the same time put everything in the most convenient shape and position for cultivation, pruning and harvesting. Two No. I1 wires tightly stretched both at same height (five or six feet as pre- ferred) from ground, parallel about two feet apart, supported by and stapled on top of a pair of durable posts set in same hole, flaring apart at top, twenty-four feet, on three vines from the next pair of posts, make the best trellis for American vines. The illustration shows the arrangement. For Delaware the vines should be eight feet apart ; for Concord, Niagara, etc., ten feet apart and the rows always eight feet apart. Cross pieces nailed to the single posts would be often knocked off in cultivation. The trellis should be set as soon after the vineyard is planted so that training may begin with the first year’s growth (V1). When the plant is set tie a string to its tip. (which should be a stub, the plant from the nursery having been cut back to four oe ee Le ALTERNATE RENEWAL, or five eyes) and to the wires above. Train up this string, the only one strong cane that is to be allowed to grow, to make the permanent body of the vine for two or thre feet at least. When near the level of the wires pinch off the tip, and from the two 32 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. upper buds shoots should be allowed to grow, one to be trained along one wire in one direction, the other along the other wire in the opposite direction. At the end of the first year when the vine is fully at rest and leaves off, prune as shown at V 2, C. C. The following spring allow each prong of the fork to push two arms only, occupying both wires in both directions and if strong the plant could be allowed to retain a few clusters on each of two prongs as shown in V 3, as the first partial crop. The two year old vine should be pruned in the fall, as shown at V 4, ¢, ¢c, cutting back the alternate arm which bore the few clusters to one or two eyes each, and the other two arms to four, six, eight or ten eyes, according to strength of plant to throw out and easily carry to maturity bearing arms which represents the first profitable crop at three years old. This three year old should be pruned in full, as shown at SARS "Nene er Ss ota S VINE THREE YEARS OLD. e,e,d,d. The third year’s process will be repeated annually, simply alternating the bearing arms, so as to maintain the balance of the vine, and to secure wood for bear- ing each successive year, that has not been produced by the sap passing through the wood which is bearing the crop. TOP VIEW OF THE TRELLIS AS SEEN FROM ABOVE. There are many advantages to this system of pruning of which the most important ones are the following : It presents less resistance to storms than vines trained one above another and hence less liable to be blown out of place; a perfect canopy of foliage is secured above the fruit, body and roots, preventing sun scald. The work of pruning, tying, spraying for mildew, rot, &c., harvesting, and of passing from row to row is rendered easiest and most convenient possible. A free passing of air beneath the vine is allowed, thus preventing dampness and is almost an absolute preventive of black rot; as the vines stand erect free from con- tact with posts, there is no place for lodgment of winter spores about the bearing head of vine. When the wind blows there is a current of air under the vines which will catch the spores and develop most readily near the ground and in the shade and carry them along to drop on the ground or go on through the vineyard without reaching the fruit above, protected by the foliage from currents. When it is desired to cultivate both ways, the posts should rise to six or seven feet. Thesystem is easy to manage. Even a novice can prune after a minute’s showing, and the prunings can be easily removed. Single Post System of Training. Grape culture simplified. While many professional and amateur Grape growers will condemn this single stake system of raising Grapes, yet they can be produced abundantly, cheaply and in a manner practical for farmers and others who may be OUR NATIVE GRAPE. Si) somewhat horticulturally inclined. The vineyards on the Rhine are enormous, and are all laid out on the single post system. That being the great crop, it dare not fail, and every bit of labor pays. Set a seven foot post two feet in the ground at planting time. Train the vine to this, cutting back at the end of the season to two buds, For the first couple of years do not expect fruit, but aim to get not less than four canes to start close to the ground. Train these to the post, cutting back each fall. Canes thus pruned after a year or two will bear some fruit, but later the fruit will come from buds borne on spurs (side shoots) on these. Aim to have never less than four canes on each vine, each of which has thiee buds to five spurs which carry about three buds each when pruned. When the canes attain considerable size cut one out each season, allowing a new shoot from near the ground to take its place. Under this system the fruit will, much of it, be borne near the ground, an essential point, as such fruit ripens earlier and richer in flavor than that borne higher up. Prune after leaf fall. At first there will only be four straight canes ; later there will be spurs which trim back to two or three buds. By fall pruning the vine is so reduced in size that it is easily buried, if necessary. The tallest of the pruned canes should be no longer than the posts. In the summer, when all the canes have been confined to the posts, new rapidly growing shoots will spread out in all directions forming somewhat an umbrella-shaped top. Cut these new shoots off about four leaves below the last fruit cluster, keeping the vine in a compact mass near the post. The Caywood Overhead System. Posts eight feet high are set in the usual manner, the tops being spotted on one side upon which boards, five or six inches wide and three feet long are nailed, repre- senting across. On the tops of these boards are stretched three wires, one on either end and one in the center. Plant the vines close to posts and tie those planted be- tween the posts directly to the wire. In this way the whole space between the vines is unobstructed for the passage of a team. 4, om ees EIST OVERHEAD SYSTEM—VINE PRUNED. A long string can be used for the middle vine when small. Branches are trained off from the top of the main trunk, one over the upper side of each wire. These may be pruned in the fall to any desired length. The vines should all run in one direction to avoid tangling. But few branches will get off or hang from the sides of OUR NATIVE GRAPE. SF WORDEN ON SINGLE POST SYSTEM. OUR NATIVE GRAPE. Al Gy this trellis, as the vines will cling to the nearest object and, if desired, these can be thrown over the top. The clusters hang below the wire, not tangled with the wood and foliage, and in a free circulation of air, and dry off quickly in the morning, which protects the bloom and prevents rot. OVERHEAD SYSTEM—VINE IN FULL BARING. Birds seldom creep through the foliage to injure the Grapes. If the Grapes are not cut until after frost the foliage protects the stems from becoming weakened by it. Either of the above mentioned systems of pruning have been used by Grape growers for many years, although the system of training the vine varies in some localities. In fact, it appears that there are as many different methods of training in practice as there are vineyardists. We will mention here the Spur system, Single Arm, Bow, Upright Canes with side spurs, Horizontal Branch system, etc. Pruning, if possible, should be done in the fall and a new argument in favor of fall pruning comes from Wm. Saunders, the experienced experimental horticulturist of the National Department of Agriculture in Washington. The best time for winter pruning of Grapes is soon after the fall of the leaves and the sooner the better, for the reason that the buds will push with more vigor in the spring, will bear better fruit and will ripen somewhat earlier. This arises from the circumstances that the plant during winter continues to absorb more or less nutriment by its roots, which is distributed in the branches of wood. If, therefore, pruning is delayed until approach of spring this winter accumulation is largely destroyed and lost. When, however, the vine is pruned in the fall, the winter accumulation of increase will be deposited in the buds and parts left after pruning, and such buds will start vigorously, and in consequence of their better development, the fruit they show will be increased and the shoots will advance rapidly in growth and attain maturity sooner than those from weaker buds, as may be tested by comparative trials and close observation of results. This is certainly a very philosophical reason for pruning and will hold particularly good in mild winters, when there will naturally be more activity in the vine than in long and steady cold winters. It probably holds good in the Southern States, where the winters are far less severe than in the North. Summer Pruning. METHOD BY D S. MARVIN. The manner of summer pruning, as usually performed, is to thin out all the shoots not needed as they start, then wait until after the vines have blossomed and the fruit set. Asthe canes are tied to the trellis, cut off the canes some two or three 36 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. inches above the last cluster of Grapes. This is the most important operation of the vineyard, and it has become so firmly fixed in the minds of the average vinedresser, that to question the value and correctness of the practice is treason, to be frowned down by the vast majority of vineyardists. This operation is, in fact, a crude and ruthless practice, that does not study or meet the conditions and wants of the plant. The object of pruning, is to grow fruit and preserve intact the health and energies of the vine, but neither of these objects is promoted by the old practice. More fruit may be grown by a different system of summer pruning, and higher health of the vine be conserved. The greatest danger that threatens this industry, is the insiduous attacks of the various sporadic diseases during the season of growth.. This system of cutting and slashing the vine just at the most critical period of its annual develop- ment is mainly the cause of, and invites the attack of the several vine diseases known as black rot, anthracnose, etc. The vine, under natural conditions, is never summer pruned or its growth checked, but under cultivation it must be controlled, and this control must, therefore, come as much as possible, not at the critical season, but when the vine is dormant in fall and winter, and it follows that what summer pruning must be done, should not be done in a rude way, but to prevent the least possible interfer- ence with the vine’s natural growth and development. In doing this pruning, we must study the several organs of the vine and its economies, so as not to do violence to its vital functions. All the enormous activities of the vine are, and must be carried on through and by its leaves, or the foliage. There, then, is the vital point of the whole matter. Never rudely sever the canes or cut off the developed leaves or foliage of the vine, for the moment this is done, the vine’s nervous energies and functions are disturbed, its health in danger, debility follows, and disease is invited, and if the weather be at all unpropitious, disaster comes on apace. The manner of pruning is the question. Pinch in only a half, or at most, an inch of the tips of the canes, and do this continuously until growth ceases, or the canes cease to lengthen. The time to begin pruning is before and not after blossom- ing. Pinch off an inch of the end of the canes as soon as they have grown to either three, four, or five buds, and bear little clusters of Grapes, according to the strength of the vine, or the species, or variety operated upon. One species may develop but two clusters to a cane, another may grow five. A very weak vine should not be summer pruned at all. By this system of early pinching, the canes cease to lengthen and the energies of the vines are turned to the development of fruit instead of wood. The leaves are also enlarged at the point where large, vigorous leaves are needed to support and develop the fruit, and not alone are the leaves upon the main canes so enlarged, but the laterals are forced out and their leaves enlarged, until there results abundance of well developed leaves, just at the proper places upon the vines, to insure the growth and maturity of the increased amount of fruit to be grown. Leaves at the end of long canes, instead of supporting the development of fruit, detract from it, and impoverish the supply of nutriment for the fruit. But if we wait and cut off a foot or two of the ends of the canes after blossoming is over, this supreme moment is forever lost, and the more we cut off the smaller the leaves at the important point of development near the fruit clusters. Then there is this further advantage by this system of early pruning. There is but a minute portion of the vine sacrificed and thrown away—an inch or two instead of a foot or two. No developed leaves sacrificed ; all the strength and energies of the vine are thus maintained and turned to good account, and but little shock or check to future growth is given, and consequent weakening of health avoided. The vines are maintained in full and high health, ready to meet unpropitious after-conditions, surmount them and go into the autumn season to ripen an earlier and better developed crop of fruit. This system of clipping OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 37 the ends of the canes is to be continued during the whole season, or until growth mainly ceases. Another important after-consideration, is the development of large fruit buds for the next season’s operations, there being no waste, no shock, full sized and well developed canes, and fruit buds result as a matter of course. Furthermore. the canes are always kept short, and at the fall or winter pruning season there are no immense piles of brush, in the shape of wasted energies, to be carried away from the vineyard and burned. No other way of summer pruning the vine is at once so effectual, conserves health and brings out the force, energy and high development of bud and fruit as this pinching at the right time, and its continuance during active growth. The important idea always to be remembered, is to commence the nip and go process at the right moment, so as to throw the energies of the vine into fruit instead of wood production. Thinning Grapes. After a vine has been carefuily pruned, it will often be found profitable to thin out the fruit according to the strength and natural habits of the variety. Some kinds habitually produce more clusters than the vines can mature, and if all are left, many imperfect bunches, many small, unripe berries with much immatured wood and feeble vines will be found at the end of the season. The present crop is poor, and with the same treatment, the next one will be poorer still. A continuance of this treatment with some varieties will kill the vines, or render them worthless. From one-third to one-half of the fruit may, with advantage, be taken from very productive varieties by thinning, and the earlier it is done, after the Grapes are out of bloom and clusters are formed, the better. First, all the small and imperfect clusters should be cut out; then those which are crowded should be partly removed, and all weak shoots, leaving but one bud to mature. This is especially advisable when the Grapes are bagged, to protect them from rot or the depredation of birds. By this treatment, leaving only the largest and finest clusters evenly distributed upon the vine, the Grapes will ripen perfectly with their highest flavor; the vines will mature their wood for next season's bearing, and the crop will, in most cases, be worth twice as much as if all had been left without thinning. In picking Grapes for market, all the unthinned fruit has to be picked and handled. It is cheaper to thin and drop it, than it is to gather it all and then to cull and handle all over again. It is less iabor to thin fruit than it is not to thin it, and it is not half the labor that you may imagine. GRBAFTING THE GRAPE. MONG the general advantages of grafting the Grape is the facility of increasing new and rare sorts by grafting on old stock ; the short time required to test the fruit of new sorts, vines so worked bearing a full crop the second year ; the ease with which sorts not readily reproduced by cuttings are made to grow when grafted ; the ability to retop a worthless stock with a valuable variety, and to bring about increased fruitfulness by grafting on appropriate stocks those sorts that are shy bearers on their own roots. More or less grafting is resorted to every year caused in all probability by the unreliability and worthlessness of so many 38 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. varieties of Grapes that have been recommended and planted. People do not wish to lose all their time, money and labor, if there is any successful way of changing them to better sorts. This can be done with little loss of time, money or labor, compared with the alternative of destroying them and setting out a new vineyard. -The modes or methods of grafting are various both above and below the surface of the ground, and are known by the name of ‘“‘ cleft,’’ ‘‘whip,’’ or ‘‘splice,’’ ete. To do grafting successfully the following important conditions must be considered : THE STOCK INTENDED TO BE GRAFTED ON. It is not necessary that the stock and scion belong to the same class, but it is important that the stock be perfectly healthy and vigorous. THE SCION. Considerable depends upon the selection of good grafting wood. The wood must be as fresh and green as when taken off the vines, and should not be less than the size of a lead pencil and well matured. The scion must be cut at least six or eight inches long, and it is better to have two buds, for if one does not grow the other may. The best time to select grafting wood is when pruning.; the wood can be cut in lengths of two, three or four grafts ; tie in small bundles and store away in damp moss. THE TIME WHEN TO GRAFT. The time depends upon location, but as a general rule should be done before the sap begins to flow, or vines bleed. Whenever the mean temperature is fifty-two degrees and remains at that for ten days or so, the vines will begin to bleed and as soon as it falls again for a week to forty-two degrees or below, they stop bleeding. This condition takes place every spring and it is about the best time to do the work. The tools required for grafting are a good sharp shoemaker’s knife, a light mallet, fine saw, pruning shears and a ball of grocer’s wrapping twine. These are generally put in a basket with the scions. Grape Layer Grafting. This is another way of grafting an old vineyard over with better varieties, which may be more successful with those of little experience in root grafting. If it is desired to change all or a part of a vineyard at one time the vines should be pruned very short, or if the vineyard is entirely worthless it is much better to take an axe and cut the vines off close tothe groudd. The object of this short pruning or in cutting off the vines is to get new strong canes for both layering and grafting, as both are done at the same time. The layering of the cane is done as soon as it is grafted. If the right kind of canes for layering and grafting are to be had readily it is not necessary to prune short or cut off, but to go to work at once grafting and layering. The time or season to do this grafting is the same as in other grafting. Select two good strong canes from each vine and dig a trench, exactly the same as for layering. on each side of the vine for a distance of three or four feet from it each way. If the vines are six or eight feet apart and one cane layered each way half the distance there would be two in the same place. This makes no difference for it would be better to graft two vines and have too many than not to have enough, for some will not grow however expert one may be, and if too many, one may be taken up and planted somewhere else. When commencing to graft, lay the cane down in the trench and bring it up within about eight inches of the surface of the ground and work it there so that it may be known exactly where to insert the graft. Be particular and have the bend in the cane where it is brought up below the graft, or the graft may be misplaced in bending it too close to where it is inserted. This is a very important matter to insure OUR NATIVE' GRAPE. 39 success. ‘To graft the cane cut it off just where marked (G) ; slope off one side about an inch and a half long to a thin edge and cut a tongue in it about one inch and a quarter deep, as done in whip grafting. Then strip off the outside bark of the cane from the end about six or eight inches, so the bend of the cane will be where the ui bark is taken off. This is for the purpose of making the graft take soon as well as to make the cane or layer strike roots quicker and better. Then take a good strong graft with no less than two eyes (F), about eight inches long, slope and tongue it _ exactly like the cane, take the bark off up as high as where inserted. Match and place the tongues within each other firmly so that they match exactly on one side at least, or both as the case may be, then wrap with waxed threads or grocer’s twine to keep the grafts in place until put in the trench or until united. This grafting is done before the cane is layered down to its place at once, for the sooner it is done the better. In layering it down press the ground firmly at the bend and around the graft. The upper bud should be about level with the surface and marked with a stake (P), to tie it to when growing. Whenever the work js fiuished. or before, cut away all other canes that are left and as often as they start out from the old vine to throw all the strength of growth into the grafts. After the layers are well rooted, which will be after the second year, the old vine may be dug out and a new and better vineyard is established. Whip Grafting. This operation is not at all difficult, but in order to perform it easily, it requires a very sharp knife, ground to a fine edge. The grafts or scions should be about six inches long. By the same method any surplus stock of vines may be changed into other and more desirable varieties. This is often a great advantage, for if they could not be sold or planted they would have to be destroyed. This method of grafting may be done upon young seedling Grapes, one or two years old, It can be performed in the house from February until time to set them out in the spring, provided there are stocks and grafts on hand to do it. The grafts when put together should be wrapped with waxed cotton warp and when | finished packed away in a cool cellar until time of setting SCION AND out. They will make good strong plants the first year, Jorn’rED GRAFT. much better than can be grown from cuttings and layers, GRAFTS. ae | OUR NATIVE GRAPE. The grafts should be as nearly as possible corresponding in size or thickness with the stock and with two eyes. In preparing split and cut precisely the grafts in the same manner as thestock, except only that the cleft and level will be at the lower extremity instead of at the upper. The scion as well as the stock should be cut as shown in the engraving, by means of a very sharp knife and also siit in to the depth of one inch and a half to three inches, according to the size of the stock to be grafted. The joining of the graft and stock is an easy mat- ter, but care should be taken that the union is perfect at least on one side. After this tie the new made graft with string or with Raffia, which lately has been used consider- able by nurserymen for budding and grafting. Takeoff the out- side bark in whip grafting, the same as should be done in all other Grape grafting. WHIP GRAFTING—IN-ROOTED VINE. Wagner System. ——————— Bn re ie SSS ee - ods yg =f RK = =; Sh SS (Eh Ne HN we, Y ee A very successful method on old or good sized vines which have been productive of sure and best results, is performed considerable in some sections of New Vork and involves the use.of the Wagner grafting saw. This grafting consists of sawing a OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 4 notch or slot for the scion in the stock after it has been smoothly taken off several inches below the ground instead of being split down through the center, as in most other methods, when vines of any considerable size are to be grafted. These slots for the scions are cut diagonally from the top of the stock outward and downward running to the outside an inch and a half or two inches from the top and deep enough so that the bark of the scions can be made to match with that of the stock, as far down and perfectly as possible and the scion should be so nicely shaped with a sharp knife, that they will perfectly fill the slot intended for them and so snugly as to require no tying unless it be by asoft tow or cotton string, but no grafting wax GRAFTING SAW. or clay should be used, No air or dirt is to be excluded as in cleft grafting, and the top of the stock protects itself with a resinous exudation, if the grafting is done in the early spring, about the time that the sap first begins to flow. By practicing this method, a bud or two can be left on the scion below where it passes through and is connected with the stock, and when the earth is carefully replaced in the excavation made in order to saw off the stock, these buds may take root, like a cutting, and materially aid the certainty of living and growth of the graft. | i) WAGNER SYSTEM. 42 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. Cleft Grafting. Dig out with a spade the ground all around the vines down to a point below the first tier of roots, about eight inches deep. In spading down no attention is neces- sary to be paid to the surface roots as they must be all cut away to get down toa clean spot to graft. The helper should not go too far ahead of the grafter, as the stocks should not be exposed too long to the sun in the open condition. If the stock is not more than half or three-quarters of an inch through, cut it off with the pruning shears, but if larger saw it off about six or seven inches below the surface. Take off the outside bark, select the most favor- able side and cut a slope on the side about one inch and a half long, and about one fourth of an inch deep at the top. The length and depth of this slope depends to some extent upon the size of the stock. Set the knife about one-eighth of an inch from the top of the slope and drive it down with the mallet about one inch and a quarter or more deep to form a tongue in the stock. The knife must be set exactly, or it will cut too shallow or too deep, but a little practice will soon determine the matter. If it is cut too deep the tongue will be stiff and unyielding, and if too shallow it will be too flimsy to hold the graft. If the stock is three-quarters of an inch or more in diameter, insert two grafts, one on each side, but if less, one stout graft will be sufficient. Cut the scions long enough that the upper bud will be just about above the level of the ground or a little above, but never under the surface. Slope the grafts on one side only, about one inch and a half long, to a thin edge below. Take the outside bark off from the grafts up as high as the slope. The bark is taken off the stock in grafting, not only for the purpose of seeing that the grafts fit and are properly adjusted, but also that the damp soil may come in contact with the inner bark so that callus may soon form as well as keep the graft alive until united or roots are thrown out to support it. Then cut a tongue in the graft about an inch and a quarter deep, the outside of which should be a little larger than the inside to make a neat fit. When inserting the grafts they cannot be made to match the stock at every part of the slope, ‘in fact, pay no attention to that, but find the place where they do and push them down tight and firm. Then as precaution VINE WITH SINGLE agoainst moving, wrap a string around to keep the grafts in the hands. place, while working about them. Fill in first a little good soil below, and pack it down firmly around the graft with Then add sufficient soil to about half fill the hole and tramp carefully around the graft to make it firm. Finally, level it with the surface and put a stake to mark the place as well as to tie the grafts to when they grow. A union will generally be made in the course of three or four weeks, which will be further consolidated during the following month. The grafts should be carefully examined the first summer about once a month. It frequently happens that the buds of the grafts swell rapidly within a few days after the operation, and then, after having given great promise for a week or two, OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 43 they turn brown, and apparently die off. Do not let this discourage you too quickly, and above all, make no rash examinations of the cause of this seeming failure, by pulling out the scion or otherwise loosening it. A graft will often remain in this state for a period of five or six weeks, and then start up all at once with a vigor that VINE WITH TWO GRAFTS, will push young wood to the length of ten or more feet the same season. Keep the young growt. well tied up, and carefully remove all suckers from the parent stock as soon as they appear. It is also well to protect the grafted joint the first winter by a slight covering of straw or coarse manure, to keep the frost from splitting it apart. A New Method of Grafting has been successfully operated in Kansas on stock one-half and three-quarter inch in diameter. A slit is cut upwards (b), and a similar one downwards (a), in the stock at any convenient height above the ground between two well-formed joints ; wrap a string tightly around the cane at this joint. This tieing will, as in girdling, prevent the return sap. Select from the graft one with a bow like bent (d), which keeps it tightly in place, and cut it wedged shaped on both ends. Insert the grafts carefully so that the bark of both is in contact and secure it with a string bound around the scion and stock (c), sufficiently tight to force and keep the ends of the scion in the cuts." The bud will begin to grow in ashort time and all the growing shoots not belonging to the graft should be removed. During the summer all the wood above the upper insertion can be cut off and in the fall or when winter pruning is done, all the wood above the lower cut should be removed, thus leaving only the wood grown from the scion. There are several other ways of grafting the Grapevine, but few are of any use to the grape grower. The above described methods are the best and the most practiced. It is also unnecessary to speak of the many machines and tools lately introduced for grafting. A good pruning knife is the tool most in use, and quite satisfactory in skilled hands. 7 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. GIRDLING. FUE practice of girdling the Grapevine to hasten the time of ripening of late © varieties, has attracted much attention during the past few years, and has led to the statement by some prominent Grape growers that the increased size of the fruit was at the expense of quality. Nearly one hundred and fifty years ago experiments were made in France in girdling of Grapevines for the purpose of its influence cn the fruit. . Girdling con- sists in removing below the lowest fruit bud a ring of bark a half inch in width, using as a tool the small blade of a jack-knife. By this removal of the bark the downward or return flow of sap after it has been assimilated by the leaves, is checked at the point of bark-denuded wood. This operation should be performed as soon as the clusters have formed and the berries get to be the size of buckshot. Instead ot removing the bark two copper wires can be fastened on the cane, placing them from one-half to three-quarters of an inch apart. Careful experiments in girdling have been made and it was found that the fertility of the size of the berries and bunches was considerably increased. The quantity of the juice in the fruit was also of larger percentage, and for wine-making purposes it adds to the saccharene properties of the must and therefore improves the quality of the wine. There is no doubt that it causes the fruit to ripen earlier and helps late varieties to mature before frosts will be injurious. In ripening later varieties earlier it gives us more scope. The drawbacks arein a wet season, that a loss of from twenty to forty per cent. of the berries by cracking open will occur, and also the production of berries too soft to bear shipping. Both of these drawbacks would be lessened in a dry season. A gain of ten days in the ripening would make a great difference in the market price of Grapes, the increased size of the fruit would make it very attractive and more than make up for the softness of the berry. Dr. J. Fisher of Fitchburg, Mass., has made several experiments in the girdling of the Grapevine. Ina vineyard he girdled sixty Concord Grapevines, one arm of each, leaving the other in natural condition. He girdled the same on July 5, by taking out a ring of bark half an inch long, near the trunk of the vine. It was curious to look at the row the middle of September ; on the girdled half the Grapes were in fit condition to pick for market, the single Grapes being almost as large as the Hamburgs in a cold grapery. The others were just beginning to turn and not picked until the first of October. The two important elements in the Grape are sugar and water. In the girdled vines the portion of water was a little over seventy-six per cent., while in the ungirdled vines it was eighty-one and a fraction per cent. An increase of nearly two per cent. in sugar took place between the girdled and ungirdled vines. It is not advisable to girdle the same vines every year as it seems impossible to long continue the operation without injury to the riperting of the vine. After one season’s girdling the vines should be allowed a year in which to recover through generous feeding and entire abstirence from fruit. Girdling is a complete draft upon the future without prospect of means to pay it through the gains of the present. After several years of experi- menting it is still a question whether in the end it will not seriously affect the vigor of the vine. ; OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 45 FERTILIZERS. cultivation cost just as much as if it were yielding large returns. Whether fertilizing will pay or not, depends entirely upon the particular requirement of the soil. Vineyards which are expected to last from twenty to forty years, require special attention, in orderto keep up the fertility of the soil. To fertilize properly, it is necessary to know first of all what ingredients are chiefly drawn upon by the crop sold off the land ; secondly, which of these ingredients are so abundantly present in the soil to render their replacement unnecessary for the present, at least. The three most valuable materials in fertilizers, are Potash, Phosphoric Acid and available Nitrogen, the elements of plant food. Plants receive their food first from the atmosphere, and second from the soil. The atmosphere supplies by far the greater quantity. This supply is always furnished to the plants in abundance, and, therefore, we need not concern ourselves about it when studying how to supply plant food. The food, however, furnished by the soil has received a great deal of attention. It is well known that plants do not thrive on all soils, sometimes because the soil is incapable of giving to the plant the quantity of food it requires for full development, or the kind of food it needs, or both. Generally speaking, a worn soil is deficient in Potash, Nitrogen or Phosphoric Acid, or any two or all three of these ingredients. A plant cannot be made to grow and develop if any one of these is absent. For this reason commercial fertilizers are manufactured and sold for the porpose of supplying Potash, Phosphoric Acid and Nitrogen. COMMERCIAL FERTILIZERS have become a necessity. The value of these depends mostly upon the fertilizing elements. So extensive is the use of these articles, and so important the testing of their composition, that a large number of _states have laws requiring the official inspection of commercial fertilizers. The inspection and analysis are made, in some states, by the Experimental Stations, and in others by State Officers appointed for the purpose. In some cases the Stations simply make the analysis called for by the law, while in others the Stations collect the samples of fertilizers, make the analysis, publish the results, and if necessary, prosecute the parties who violate the laws, by either selling fertilizers without state- ment of composition, or selling articles which do not come up to the composition stated. The official inspection, publication of analysis, prosecutions where called for, are included in what is commonly called “ Fertilizer Control,’”’ Inferior goods have been sold in the past, and purchasers have not known how to distinguish between the good and the bad. Some of the fertilizers in the market were absolutely fraudulent ; others were of the best quality and sold at very reasonable prices. Buyers should make use of the information offered them by this law, know what they buy, and be able to judge of its commercial value. In making fertilizers, various substances are used to furnish the ingredients. NITROGEN is supplied either in form of Nitrate of Soda, which contains about sixteen per cent. of Nitrogen, or SULPHATE OF AMMONIA, which contains some twenty per cent. of Nitro- gen; or |" is true, that nothing pays worse than poor crops upon large areas, of which the 46 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. ORGANIC NITROGEN, from dried blood, bones, fish, fish scrap, cotton seed meal or other vegetable products rich in Nitrogen. These organic substances contain from seven to sixteen per cent. of Nitrogen. Nitrogen is the most expensive element in fertilizers, and also the element soonest exhausted in soil. If the Nitrogen, which is found in nature in large quantities, could be appropriated by plants as food, there would be no need in seeking this element in commercial fertilizers, but most plants are incapable of taking up free Nitrogen of the atmosphere as a food. PHOSPHORIC ACID is next in importance, as a plant food. All cultivated soils contain more or less Phosphoric Acid, but it is generally more deficient than most other forms of plant food. There are many sources from which the Phosphoric Acid is obtained for fertilizers, such as Bone Meal, which also contains Nitrogen, Bone Black. When bones are heated in iron cylinders, into which air is not allowed to enter, gas, water, oily matters and other products are driven off, while bone charcoal is left in the cylinders. This product is used to take the coloring out of raw sugars. After a time it becomes worthless for this purpose, when it is sold to the manufacturers of fertilizers, as all the Lime-Phosphate still remains. The decomposition of Bone black in the soil goes on slowly, and therefore it is not generally applied as such, except after a treatment with Sulphuric Acid. “The chief sources of Phosphate of Lime are the Phosphate rocks, which are found in large beds in North and South Carolina, Florida and Alabama. The South Carolina Rock is pulverized and sold under the name of Floats. This becomes more quickly of use than ground bone, but a still greater solubility is attained by dissolving it in Sulphuric Acid, called Super-Phos- phate, or known in the markets as Acid Phosphate. POTASH ranks next to Phosphorous as a valuable food for plants. Plants consume this element in comparatively large quantities, and some soils are unable to supply the demand. especially is this the case with light, sandy soils. Potash is found largely in the ashes of plants, and constitutes one of the chief sources of food supplied by wood ashes. Potash in ashes in very easily dissolved in water. Other sources of Potash, as generally found in fertilizers, are Sulphate of Potash, Muriate of Potash, Kainit and Sylvanite, Cotton Seed hull ashes made at the oil mills. The first named are imported from Germany, where they are mined in great abundance. The cost of fertilizers are estimated from the essential ingredients contained therein, or in other words, the commercial value, at which the fertilizers can be put on the market. In all manufactured fertilizers there is a certain percentage of inert matter, but only the plant food elements Potash, Phosphoric Acid and Nitrogen are guaranteed by the manufacturer of fertilizers. Grapevines differ from ordinary farm crops and have to withstand the storms, ice and snow of winter as well as the heat of summer. The Grape likes a soil very rich in nutritious substances. The healthy growth and capacity for production of the vine appears to be promoted by the lower layers of the vineyard soil. If made particularly rich in soluble nutriment, that the rootsmay reach down to these layers, they will be well nourished and more powerfully developed. A large quantity of nutritious substances will, however, only penetrate to the lower layers, and a superabundant amount of such substances must be used, if the vineyard is to be brought to a healthy condition, and yield large proceeds. The condition and quality of soil differ largely in different localities, but it may be safely observed and relied upon, that the lower and damper the situation of the vineyard is, the more must the use of Nitrogen be diminished ; while the higher and drier it lies, the more the Phosphoric Acid and Potash must be supported by Nitrogen. A healthy and vigorous development should OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 47 be promoted in young vines to encourage them to attain maturity early in the season, that the wood may ripen thoroughiy and bear the winter well. For this object Nitrogen may be administered in the form of Soda, which acts speedily, adding also some Phosphoric Acid. An analysis of the ash of Grapewood shows a very large percentage of Potash and Phosphoric Acid, and therefore it is necessary to apply a large amount of these two elements. The effect of these is to produce a rapid, early growth and with the addition of Nitrogen mature and ripen the fruit. Manure. It is a stated fact, that even the richest soil, after a while decreases steadily in fertility ; the ground becomes worn out, exhausted, unable to respond to the demands made upon it. To raise paying crops, without artificial fertilization, is possible only where stable manure of the best quality can be offered in abundant quantities. In our common language, manure usually refers to the droppings of domestic animals united with a greater or less proportion of straw or other litter. It is exceedingly variable in its composition and nature, depending upon the kind of animal from which obtained, the nature of food, the protection of weather, etc. Of the food consumed by animals, but a very small proportion of these parts is retained, which are the most valuable in manures, namely, the Nitrogen, Phosphoric Acid and Potash. They use Phosphoric Acid in the shape of Phosphate of Lime to make their bones and Nitrogen in making flesh. Of the most important part, the Nitrogen, a considerable amount generally is found in the Urine. It is, therefore, advisable to save the Urine, which is the soluble part of manure and the most valuable, so that when exposed to rains it is readily washed away. It is almost need- less to say, that it is poor economy to allow such waste to occur, when it may be prevented by a little thought and care. It is practically impossible to determine the worth of manure. Complicated as the manure question is, it is of vital importance to the Grape grower. Upon the right management depends success or failure. The wide awake vineyardist does not hesitate to apply all the fertilizers necessary to the production of a large and fully developed crop. Grapevines require food, like animals and human beings, and it is only natural that plants cannot thrive luxuriously unless they are properly and well fed. Ifthe Grape grower has not enough farm manure he can supply plant food with a well formulated commercial fertilizer, by choosing those brands rich in Potash and Phosphoric Acid. The manure will help the land mechanically, and the fertilizer will furnish the food for the production of vigorous, perfect plants and, consequently, prime fruit. Wood Ashes. The composition of wood ashes varies greatly with the kind of wood from which they are formed and the amount of impurities, such as sand, charcoal and moisture which they contain. Unbleached hardwood ashes, when free from dirt, often contain a much larger per cent. of Phospheric Acid and Potash. Aside from these substances, ashes contain Calcium Carbonate sufficient to amount to half their weight or more. This article here serves the same purpose as in marl or chalk, while the highly alkaline nature of the Potassium Carbonate, which unbleached ashes contain, make their action upon the soil very similar to that of caustic lime. One difference in the g8 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. action, however, seems to be that there is much more danger of applying an excess of ashes than of lime. On certain heavy soils, which even very large quantities of lime make more easy to work, the application of ashes in large quantities cause the land to become hard and difficult of cultivation. This result is believed to be brought about by a chemical action of the Potassium Carbonate upon the soil whereby it is in a measure connected together. Because such soils are more likely to be bene- fitted by an application of Potash, and partly because they are apt to be improved by the mechanical action, shortly to be described, ashes are most suitable for sandy or gravelly soil. In considering the capillary power of soils, it was noted, that the fewer the particles and consequently the fewer the pores between them, the greater will be the capillary power of the soil. Wood ashes are generally in a very finely divided con- dition, and are found to be very retentive of moisture, either when by themselves or when mixed with earth. When applied in considerable quantities, they are found to increase to a marked extent the capacity of the soil, not only for retaining moisture, but for bringing it from the depth below. Ashes are especialy useful for small fruits and orchards. The amount to be used varies somewhat with the quality of the ashes, the nature of the soil, and the pur- pose for which applied. Ashes may serve a useful purpose for composting with bones and also tend to correct ‘‘sourness’”’ of the soil. In most cases this is not due to free acid, but to the presence of soluble iron salts, which in undue quantity are poisonous to plants, and in smaller quantities show that the soil is stagnant and needs eration. Ashes precipitate these salts and open the soil, that contains them, to the air, by making it lower in‘texture. In Southern States cottonseed hull ashes are used considerable. These serve as a valuable source of Potash. On an average of several analysis made, they contain over twenty per cent. of Potash soluble in water, and about eight per cent. of total Phosphoric Acid. Of the Phosphoric Acid per cent., more than seven-eights was found to be in a available condition. As in wood ashes, the greater part of the Potash here exists as a Carbonate. Little Chlorine is present and, as compared with wood ashes, contain but little lime. DISEASES OF THE GRAPE. HE Grape, like all other fruits, is subject to diseases, which have been so )))) troublesome and destructive to the vineyards in all sections of our country. It shows us the necessity of using every remedy that we know of for the destruction of these diseases, and through patient and persistent industry of our scientific workers, we are enabled, by efficient remedies, to keep these diseases in check and are no longer the dreaded foes they once were. All fungii are plants and not insects, which may be divided into two groups, those growing upon living matter, and those upon dead matter; the former ones (parasitic) are most interesting to the Grape grower. Few of our cultivated plants are attacked by more fungous diseases, or more injured by them, than is the Grape. It seems as if, whatever be the nature of the sea- ©) OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 49 son, there is some destructive Grape disease, which almost forbids us to grow these delicious species of fruit. Every fungus is produced from a spore or seed, which will develop rapidly when exposed to proper condition of heat and moisture. These spores are very small, minute germs, generally colorless, orange or black, however, so powerful and rapid in its growth and spreading, that Grape growing in some localities has almost been rendered impracticable by different varieties of fungii, were it not for the valuable experiences we receive every year through science, to aid us in a successful effort fighting these injurious fungous diseases. In order to make an intelligent use of remedies for checking or preventing these ravages, it is essential to gain a complete knowledge of their nature and habits. Every Grape grower, therefore, should first familarize himself where the fungus lives from year to year, how it gains access to the tissues of the leaves and fruit, thus causing blighting of the leaf and decay of the fruit. There are a considerable number of fungii, which attack the Grape, the most important ones we will now explain. Black Rot---Laestadia Bidwellii. This disease is familiar to all Grape growers and especially dreaded by growers of the Southern States, where all the conditions are favorable to nourish the rapid growth of this fungus and has caused the total destruction of the Grape crop. Black Rot is the most serious and important disease of the Grapevines in the United States. There is no disease yet known that causes in a few days such great losses, and our vineyardists rightly consider Black Rot as the worst of the scourges. It demands a 1. A section through a bit of the berry including an immature pyenidiman (P) and spermagonium (S). At O is the osteolum, through which the spores escape at maturity. 2. Fourof thesporidia, that have escaped trom an escus. 3. Three styles spores germinating. 4. Two separate asci, showing the eight sporidia in each. high temperature combined with sufficient and frequent humidity to develop most actively. This fungus is undoubtedly of American origin and has lived for many years previous to its discovery upon the wild Grapevines of the United States. 50 , OUR NATIVE GRAPE. The first manifestation of Black Rot is the appearance of a livid brown spot on some part of the berry, which gradually increases in size until the entire Grape is uniformly discolored, so that it appears to be rotten, althongh its original contour and firmness are retained. It usually happens that before the completion of this change the part first effected becomes darker in color and small black pimples are developed over the surface. The berries begin to lose their fullness, which soon ends with a withering of the berry, and become hard, dry, shrivelled to one-half its natural size, the skin pressed closely upon its seeds. The destruction of the berry is now complete. These little pimples which are easily seen with the naked eye are characteristic of this form of rot. The rotted berries remain firmly attached to the supports for a long time sometimes even to the following spring. These berries, which are generally allowed to drop to the ground, since unfit for use, conceal through the winter months thousands of minute sacks within each of which are a number of resting spores, awaiting the copious spring rains to be loosened from the rotten mass of Grape and tissue, and blown upon the green foliage which has made its appearance. The fungus can be seen very distinct on the shining deep green leaves of the Grape- vines by small round or oval brown spots not more than one-quarter of an inch in diameter. In these spots are little pimples, which discharge through the pores in jelly-like masses, myriads of little round spores, which are washed down the stems or drip from the edge of the leaf upon the young Grape cluster beneath. Having gained a favorable resting place upon the berries, they grow and send their threads into the soft pulp of the berry. These spores develop on the berry in a similar way as upon the leaf. As soon as Black Rot appears on the leaves steps should be taken to check the spread of the disease which shows itself from two to three weeks ahead of attacking the berries. In wet seasons the leaves will always show the fungus first, while there have been some cases in dry seasons when only the berries have been attack ed. The Downy Mildew, Peronospora viticola. The Downy Mildew is common to both the wild and cultivated Grapes of this country, and was doubtless conveyed from the former to our cultivated Grapevines. This disease is also called grey rot in its early stage upon the berry, and brown rot in its later, and stands to-day as one of the best understood fungous diseases. It attacks all the green parts of the vine, including the young shoots as well as the leaves and berries, and reproduces, by means of spores, minute bodies corresponding in function, seeds of flowering plants. It works in the interior of the leaves and gives the upper side a yellowish appearance, like down or frosty patches. In a short time the spores are produced on the extremity of minute, thread-like stems, that pro- trude through on the under side of the leaves. The spores, which are contained in small, spherical sacks, are blown by the wind upon the soft green surface of the leaves, where in warm, moist atmosphere of spring, they germinate with great rapidity. The contents swell, become segmented, and finally burst forth as ciliated swarm-spores. They move about for the time and then, having come to rest, drop off their cilia and soon throw out more thread-like stems, which develop into a new fungus, if the conditions are favorable. In this way the Downy Mildews reproduce themselves during the summer, generation following generation in quick succession. These spores, which are produced in countless thousands, are blown from this one leaf, perhaps, in a single day, over the entire vineyard, infesting leaves upon almost every vine. This spreading or fruiting of the spores continues until late in the autumn, when within the leaves are formed in small sacks with tough, leathery coats OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 5r the hardy winter spores, which will live through the winter and infesting new vine- yards again the following spring. The disease is particularly favored in its develop- ment by cold, wet weather, although any weakness of the vines, caused by overbear- ing, soil-exhaustion or similar causes, may induce the development of the disease, and increase its injurious effects. Mga Sr rss Section of leaf (greatly magnified) showing conidial stage. Showing the same less magnified. I 2 3. The same, showing the effect of the fungus, the leaf brown and shrivelled. 4. Germinating conidia. 5-8, Development of conidia through zoo spores and swarm-spore stages g. Spore. 10, Germinating spore. 11-13. Fertilization of organism and development of the spore. 14. Section of leaf (greatly magnified) showing mycelial thread passing between the cells and sending its haustoria into them. 15. Branching mycelium, the spots representing haustoria. Berries, when attacked by Downy Mildew, rarely attain more than one-fourth their full size, often remaining not larger than small peas. The fungus upon them is of a grayish color, which soon turns brown, thus producing a kind of brown or gray rot. 52 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. From the study of the above outlined life history, it would be evident to an intelligent observer, that all diseased leaves and berries should be burned in the fall in order to kill the winter spores, and it would also be evident that any mixture applied to the young leaves in the spring, before they become diseased, would prevent the spread of the Downy Mildew as weil as of other fungous diseases. The Powdery Mildew---Uncinula Spitalis. In many respects the Powdery Mildew is quite the reverse of the Donwy form. It flourishes in hot, dry weather ; it is not found within the tissues, but obtain its food by means of suckers piercing the outside skin of the leaves or epidermis and always occasions most injury during seasons of protracted drought. In the average season, however, little injury is done comparatively in the open vineyard, at least the injury is slight in comparison with that by the Downy Mildew. It is living wholly upon the outside of the leaves'and fruit of the Grape, causing the dirty white coatings so well known to all Grape growers, which makes so many clusters unfit for market purposes. If this fungus is examined early in the season short branches will be seen arising from the threads at right angles (a). These branches are divided into several oblong cells by cross walls. The one on the tip, which is slightly larger than that imme- diately below, soon falls off and the others follow. If they fall on good soil they at once germinate. Dampness or a moderate amouut of humidity is sufficient for their germination. One of these oblong cells falling upon a Grape leaf will under favorable condition of temperature and humidity, push forth one or more germ-tubes, which sends suckers into the epidermal cells. ‘Through these small suckers, which are the only part of the fungus entering the Grape leaf, the sap is drawn upon which and without which the leaf dies. The spores are formed much in the same manner as those of the Downy Mildew, but their structure is far more complex. From the exterior, appendages of various forms are developed. In some cases they are straight, POWDERY MILDEW. in others forked at the extremities, and yet in others they are coiled (B and C). By their multitude these threads now become visible to the unaided eye and we have what has been familiarly termed ‘‘Mildew.” Inthe fall again, after these summer spores have been produced for many weeks, the small baskets of winter spores are formed, which remain in their cases on the fallen leaves or berries until spring, when the spores burst the walls of the cells and escape ; they soon germinate and begin their life cycle anew. The Powdery Mildew makes its appearance during the early days of June and continues its development late into the autumn. It appears in dull grayish-white patches, most conspicuous on the upper surface of the leaves. It never has the bright, lustrous or frosty appearance that characterizes the Downy Mildew, and the livid brown or seemingly scorched blotches on the leaves are wanting. Upon the young and tender shoots the fungus is often particularly abundant, its action being to check their growth. Sometimes it appears during the season of bloom and coming OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 53 on the newly expanded flowers prevents them ripening to maturity. Attacking young berries their growth is permanently checked. Upon older berries the pres- ence of this Mildew is made evident by small brownish spots produced by the action of the suckers on the epidermal cells. Oftentimes the fungus spreads over only a small portion or the berry ; this part fails to grow and a much distorted or imperfectly formed fruit is the result, sometimes causing the berries to crack open exposing the seeds. If completely overgrown the berries become dry, shrivelled and finally drop off. Anthracnose. This disease, like the Black Rot, is caused by a minute fungus, which is also propagated from plant to plant by spores, that are blown by the wind and require moisture in order to germinate. It inhabits both stems, leaves and fruit. All the green parts of the vine are subject to its attacks from the beginning of the season until the close of vegetation. Anthracnose appears on the shoots as early as June and attacks the kerries, when nearly full grown. The spots on the latter are very characteristic, gray in the middle, and then a ring of orange or reddish color and finally a dark ring outside. From this appearance the disease is known sometimes as the Birds-eye-rot. After a period the skin of the berries will burst exposing the seeds, the berries begin to wither and dry up, leaving nothing but the skin and the seeds. A berry may be attacked upon one side when it is not more than half grown ; it then becomes irregular in shape, the diseased part making no development, and it sometimes happens that this side cracks open exposing the seeds, which are gradually forced out by the unequal growth. On the green shoots first appear irrregular, small brown patches, a little depressed in the center with a slightly raised dark colored border. These spots increase in size, drawing out in length with the grain of the bark ; the central portion becomes more destroyed, sometimes appearing as if burned 1. Berries destroyed by Anthracnese. 3. Mature spores, much magnified, usually thin-walled and transparent, with one or more bright spots. and reaching in as far as the marrow. ‘The action on the leaves is similar to that upon the stems and it is very evident that, where the diseased spots are numerous and the development of the fungus proceeds without interruption, both shoots and leaves, must succumb to the parasite. The intensity of the disease upon the shoots may cause the destruction of the young leaves even when the latter are not attacked. Anthracnose, which in some parts has been bitterly complained of, is not in other sections nearly so destructive as other diseases, but from the fact that it has proved a difficult one to deal with, should be looked after with scrutiny. This fungus seems to affect white or light colored varieties more than the black, especially on rich ground, which is very moist, badly or not underdrained. Precaution should be taken at once, on the appearance of this disease, by cutting out the affected wood and destroying the same by burning. It is also advisable to give the Grapevine a dry 54 ‘OUR NATIVE GRAPE. application of powdered Sulphur and air-slacked Lime in equal proportion. We have found that “ Fostile,’’ lately introduced from France, has checked the Anthrac- nose on its start. More attention ought to be paid to this disease, as, once taken a firm hold on the vines, it is very hard to battle against. oe diaee + otic orecers oO Veh FF ee oe ; mb hm A : 0 ora aes th! noe Roses LOK Aa SEPT Te A sak Sa ah hers 5 ae ae rs si ~ J f 2. Vertical section (enlarged) of diseased berry, showing large nnmbers of spores laying beneath the epidermis (a) and finally rupture the latter and escape (b). 4. Spores germinating. The foregoing are the principal fungus diseases against which our Grape growers have to fight, though occasionally cases of Bitter Rot and White Rot have been found in some vineyards. Bitter Rot. Bitter Rot derives its name from the flavor it imparts to the fruit, which is attacked generally about the time the berries attain full size. At first a brownish circle or spot appears on the berry, which rapidly enlarges and soon the entire berry turns brown, but still retains its usual shape. Finally, little purplish black pimples appear thickly dotting the surface and soon the berry shrivels and falls to the ground. White Rot. White Rot attacks the fruit, pedicles or stalks which support the latter but seldom the branches. The pedicles, if attacked, turn brown and the berries which they sup- port dry up and appear as if scorched. Berries affected with this disease first become very juicy and soon minute gray or brownish postules appear on the surface. Finally the berries dries up assuming at the same time a greyish white color, easily distin- guished from that produced by the Black Rot fungus. Rougeot. A new Grape disease first complained of in 1890, has been found in numerous localities through Western New York. The attacks of this disease seem to be con- fined to bearing vines three or more years from the planting. Small irregular blotches of a dark color appear between the veins, which enlarge rapidly, darken to a dull purplish or reddish brown and unite so as to fill up the space between the veins, which remain green or yellow. These changes occur so rapidly that the foliage seems to change color suddenly. The contrast between the green or light yellow veins and OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 55 dark purplish brown of the intervening tissues gives a peculiarly streaked appearance to the leaves. In the most serious cases they curl up, became dry and brittle, and finally drop from the vine, leaving it nearly bare. The berries borne upon diseased vines, almost without exception, have a flat insipid, and often intensely sour taste, due to the fact that they are only partially ripened. When the attack is severe the berries drop off and the ground beneath a diseased vine is often seen to be covered with half ripe Grapes. The berry is found to part from its pedical taking with it the fibers, which enter the material of the pulp and are normally withdrawn from it when the berry is pulled off. After the crop has been harvested aiso, bunches are found to shell badly, ruining them for*the market. The worst attacks of the disease occur upon cold, heavy soils containing a large percentage of clay and rich in nitrogenous matters. There seems to be no connection whatever between the fertilizers and the trouble. Diseased plants being found upon land unmauured, heavily manured, fertilized with phosphate, wood ashes and bone dust. In cases where the soil is at all inclined to retain more moisture than necessary, thorough underdraining will probably be the surest means of preventing a second attack. Examinations of the roots of many diseased and healthy plants have shown no parasite of a nature adequate to cause the injury. Should the vines show no mature wood available for the next year the better plan will be to prune close to the ground and raise an entirely new growth. The diseased vines should not be allowed to bear heavily the coming season, as the necessary strain may favor a second attack of the disease. Ripe Rot of Grapes--Glorosforium Fruct- tigranon. This peculiar disease has received particularly no attention until lately. This fungus seems to be slowly gaining a foothold on the Grape and in some parts of the country causes the Grape to rot after they are carried to the packing houses. It is closely related to the Black Rot in general appearance, causes the berries to soften and turn a dark shiny color after showing red pimples on the surface. It attacks the berries when they have begun to ripen. Unlike any other of the dis- eases of the Grape, this one will be likely to spread after the Grapes are crated and await the attention of the packers. One diseased berry under favorable circum- stances being able to affect a whole crate and render it unfit for market. The young fungous threads penetrate the soft Grape-pulp, aud after living within the delicate substance for about seven days forms spore postules under the skin which finally break open and allow myriads of minute pink spores to escape, which, when washed upon healthy berries. grow and produce similar diseased spots and similar postules. This new disease, unless guarded against, may prove to the Northern States what the Black Rot has been to the Southern, and demands attention from all Grape growers. Experiments have shown that it can be controlled by fungicides ; any of the copper remedies will doubtless check it. This disease is closely connected with one of the apple, known as the Bitter Rot of the’apple, and it is a fact that spores from the Grape would produce Bitter Rot on the apple and vice versa. In the Grape, however, the rotting Grapes do not have the bitter taste characteristic in the apple. There is great danger in the fact that it is already widespread on the apple, and wherever it is present on this fruit the Grape is not secure from it. Probably in no other country of the world is spraying for fungous diseases of 56 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. fruits practiced to the same extent as in the United States. Five years ago practically nothing was known of this subject ; in fact, tne number actively engaged in spraying their trees, vines, etc., for such diseases as apple scab, black rot, Downy Mildew and other diseases of the Grape did not exceed half a hundred, all told. Now, as a fair estimate, probably no less than 50,000 fruit growers are engaged in this work. From the Atlantic to the Pacific and from the Great Lakes to the Gulf the methods recom- mended by the Department are practiced every year. DOES IT PAY TO SPRAY? No work that did not carry merit with it could have had such a phenomenal growth. To give a direct answer, however, it may be stated that two hundred and fifty Grape growers in differert parts of the country made a series of observations with a view of obtaining some definite information as to the value in dollars and cents of the recommendations made by the Department in the treatment of Grape diseases. The facts reported by these men show conclu- sively that the actual profit to them over all expenses resulting from the treatment of black rot and Downy Mildew was in round numbers $37,000. Thirteen thousand dollars of this sum was reported from the State of New York alone. Other examples equally as striking could be given, but this is sufficient for our purpose. Of course, every one is not successful, but where failure is reported it is usually easy to locate and remedy the trouble. Treatments. Attention may be called to the oft-repeated statement that practically all efforts to treat diseases of the Grapevine must be preventive, not remedial in purpose, as nothing can restore the fruit to health after it is once diseased. ‘here is no cure for these diseases and the treatment therefore must be altogether preventive and the following methods cannot fail to bring favorable results : 1. In the fall at pruning time remove from the vineyard every particle of dis- eased canes, leaves or dried berries and either burn them, which is preferable, or bury them deeply in the earth. By all means avoid leaving them exposed where the wind can scatter the leaves back toward the vineyard. 2. Wash the canes before the buds are exposed in the spring with a solution of Iron (Copperas). This wash will destroy the spores it comes in contact with, and thereby lessen the amount of infective material ; it has especially a good effect upon vines affected with Anthracnose. 3. Spray the vines thoroughly by means of the well known force pumps, with one of the copper mixtures. Numerous preparations have been recommended and used for the work. For all practical purposes, however, there are but four which properly may be called remedies. They are Bordeaux Mixture, Ammonical Solution of Copper Carbonate, Eau Celeste, Modified Eau Celeste. The latest experiments indicate that the best results will follow the use of these preparations when made as follows: 1--Bordeaux Mixture. In a barrel that will hold forty-five gallons dissolve six pounds of copper sulphate, using eight or ten gallons of water or as much as may be necessary for the purpose. In a tub or half barrel slack four pounds of fresh lime. When completely slacked add enough water to make it creamy whitewash. Pour this slowly into the barrel containing the copper sulphate solution, using a coarse gunny sack stretched over the OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 57 head of the barrel for astrainer. Finally fill the barrel with water, stir thoroughly, and the mixture is ready for use. Prepared in this way the cost of one gallon of the mixture will not exceed one cent, the price of copper sulphate being seven cents per pound and lime thirty cents per bushel. In all cases it is desirable to use powdered copper sulphate, as it costs but little more and dissolves much more readily. It is highly important also that fresh lime be used. It will be seen by those familiar with former suggestions made by the Depart- ment that thestrength of this mixture has been diminished one-half. It was found as the result of experiments made in 1891, that a mixture of this strength, and even much weaker, gave practically as good results as the old formula, which required six pounds of copper sulphate and four pounds of lime to twenty-two gallons of water. In mixing Bordeaux the trouble of weighing the lime may be obviated by use of the following simple test, and a tub of slacked lime can for convenience be kept on hand. Add milk of lime to the solution of copper sulphate and test it with two or three drops of Potassium Ferro-cyanide in solution. If enough lime has been added, the Potassium Ferro-cyanide will not change color, but if not sufficient lime has been added the Potassium Ferro-cyanide will turn to a dark reddish-brown color. By adding more lime and repeating the test, it is easy to discover when there is enough lime in the mixture. As an excess of lime does not harm there is no danger of adding too much. Bordeaux must be kept constantly agitated when spraying in order to prevent clogging the nozzle and to insure uniform strength of the application. 2.--Ammonical Solution of Copper Carbonate. In an ordinary water pail mix five ounces of copper carbonate with enough water to make a thick paste. Dissolve this paste in three pints of strong aqua ammonia; then dilute to forty-five gallons. If three pints of ammonia are not sufficient to dissolve all the paste add enough to bring about this result. Copper carbonate occurs in the market in the form of a fine greenish powder. The retail price is usually sixty cents a pound. Aqua ammonia having a strength of twenty-six degrees retails at eight cents per pound. Upon this basis one gallon of ammoniacal solution of copper carbonate will cost one cent. In view of this fact that copper carbonate is sometimes difficult to obtain, the following directions for manufacturing it are given : In a half barrel or some similar vessel, dissolve three pounds of copper sulphate in two gallons of hot water. In another vessel dissolve three and one-half pounds of common washing soda or salsoda in one gallon of hot water. When cool pour the second solution slowly into the first ; then as soon as all action has ceased add enough water to bring the whole up to eight or ten gallons and stir thoroughly. In twenty- four hours pour off the clear liquid, taking care not to disturb the sediment. Add fresh water and stir again. Again allow the solution to stand tw2nty-four hours, pour off the clear liquid as before ; then remove the sediment, which is a copper carbonate. Prepared in this way there is*formed one and one-half pounds of copper carbonate at an expense of materials of approximately eighteen cents per pound. The copper carbonate paste may be immediately dissolved in aqua ammonia, using two gallons of the latter, or as much as may be necessary for the purpose. This concentrated fluid should be kept in well-corked jugs and when ready for use should be diluted at the rate of one pint to twelve gallons of water. 58 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 3.--Eau Celeste. Dissolve two pounds of copper sulphate in eight gallons of water. When com- pletely dissolved add three pints of strong ammonia and dilute to forty-five gallons, When prepared in this way the solution will cost about two-thirds of a cent per gallon. 4.--Modified Eau Celeste. Dissolve four pounds of copper sulphate in ten or twelve gallons of water and stir in five pounds of washing or sai-soda ; then add three pints of strong aqua ammonia, dilute to forty-five gallons. The cost will be one and one-half cents per gallon. The regular application of any of the above formule should be made as soon as the young shoots are six to eight inches long. Little material is required at this time ; however, the canes as well as the young foliage should be treated. The second spraying should be made at about ten days later as much foliage is being formed which should be protected from infection. This treatment comes about or just before the period of full bloom. After this the Grape grower will have to use his own judgment in regard to the number of sprayings and the proper time to discon- tinue them, and should be governed by the condition of his vines, as serious results may follow by the residue left upon the fruit when mature. There is on the part of consumers an ever-present fear concerning such matters; and their lack of correct information tends to make them peculiarly liable to a panic when unintentionally or otherwise, a scare concerning so-called poisoned fruit is started. In the case of the Grape scare in New York city some time ago, Grape growers all over the country were made to suffer, partly through the folly of a few over-zealous individuals who upon their own responsibility made more applications than were necessary and partly through the action of a somewhat hasty Board of Health. No other positive stand on this question have been taken so far, though many misleading statements have from time to time appeared in our horticultural and agricultural papers. We take the ground that fruit sprayed with the copper compounds in accordance with the direction of the Department at Washington is harmless. Treatment of Black Rot. METHOD A.—After pruning the vineyard and putting the ground in thorough order spray the vines first, as the buds begin to swell, with Bordeaux mixture. When the leaves are one-third grown make a second application of the same fungicide, following with a third when the vines are in full bloom. After this, applications should be continued at intervals of ten or twelve days until the first signs of ripening are noticed. This will usually be three weeks or a month before the Grapes are ready to pick. In no case should the treatment be continued up to the time of harvest, as this is entirely unnecessary; moreover, it is sure to render the fruit unsightly. It is important to bear in mind that in case of dry weather the sprayings should cease. METHOD B.—Following the direction laid down under Method A, with the exception that the ammionical solution be used instead of Bordeaux mixture. METHOD C.—For the first three sprayings use the Bordeaux mixture, then sub- stitute the ammoniacal solution for the rest of the season. The cost of the treatment as laid down in Method A need not exceed two and OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 59 UNTREATED. BLACK ROT. TREATED. The above illustrations show two bunches of Grapes, one without auy treatment whatever, while the other cluster was three times sprayed with the Bordeaux mixture and twice with the ammoniacal solution of copper carbonate. 60 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. one-half cents per vine. Method B will cost two cents and Method C the same. So far as efficacy is concerned there is little choice. All things considered, however, Method A will doubtless prove the most satisfactory. Downy Mildew. When this disease occurs alone ammoniacal solution or modified eau celeste may be used. The first spraying should be made when the fruit is well formed, the others at intervals of ten of twelve days as recommended for black rot. What is known as brown rot is caused by the fungus of Downy Mildew. It is seldom that brown rot occurs in the berries without the leaves being also affected. In regions where this happens the treatment recommended for black rot should be followed. In some sections eau celeste has been more effective against these diseases than any of the other fungicides. This is notably the case in Northern Ohio and Western New York, Eau celeste, however, sometimes injures the foliage, and we do not advise its extended use. Anthracnose. Use Bordeaux mixture the same as recommended for black rot under Method A. It is important to the vineyardist to use preventive remedies which protect their crops from all diseases, and within a year or two a powder, what is known as Sulfosteatite or Fostite, has been introduced from France, where it has given grati- fying results for several years as a preventive for Grape diseases. It consists of copper sulphates, soapstone powder, which is exceedingly fine and adheres well. The powder is put on the vines by means of bellows; is cheaper and more easily dis- tributed than Bordeaux mixture or any other remedies usually applied. By the means of the bellow the Fostite forms a cloud which moves with the least air current and covers the objects in its path with a slight coat of dust. This success ‘Z » ZZ ca Or ire ig a a & Es, POWDERS is obtained. by the very composition of the powder. Owing to a very ingenious process the sulphate of copper is converted, and the salts resulting therefrom adheres. to all the particles of the vine with a wonderful adhesiveness and fineness, allowing the preserving salts to reach all the points of the plant. Consequently no spores, whether of mildew, anthracnose or black rot can eacape, if the application is made during calm and damp weather, which allows the powder to adhere. Fostite is entirely harmless to men, animals and plants and can be handled with safety. \ OOR NALIVE (GRAPE, 6r Spraying Outfits. The use of fungicides necessitates the possession of proper spraying pumps. These should be carefully selected according to the amount of work to be performed. There is no question that the Knapsack sprayer fills every requirement, In no other machine is the work so absolutely at all times under control, it being possible to place nearly every drop of liquid exactly where it is wanted. Knapsack pumps are now used in many vineyards, also in places where the larger or horse power machines, owing to the nature of the land cannot be utilized. The improved Galloway Knapsack Sprayer manufactured by the Deming Com- pany of Salem, Ohio, is one of the best of this kind made. It consists of a copper SE GALLOWAY’S IMPROVED KNAPSACK SPRAYER. tank arranged to strap on the back, and a brass pump, which is operated by a rod attached to the lever. The pump is so constructed that all leakage from the stuffing box will drip back intothe tank. If it become necessary the valves can be taken out for repairs without removing the pump from the tank. Quite a number of acres can be sprayed with one of these outfits. Knapsack sprayers are now manufactured all over the country. Next in importance is a nozzle, that will throw a mist-like spray and will not clog when thick fluids are used. The Vermorel nozzle is the best. It iseconomical of material, produces the finest kind of a spray, and if the aperture is clogged, the needle-like degorger easily removes the obstruction. Every sprayer is provided with one of these nozzles. A cheap, and most practical and efficient sprayer is found in a strong, light, double acting, double discharge force pump mounted on a barrel. It may be said here at the same time, that while they cannot do the work as rapidly as the horse- power automatic machines. they are more effective, much cheaper and far less wasteful of the liquid used. The Double Empire Spraying Pump made by the Field Force Pump Company, Lockport, N. Y., cannot be too highly recommended. It will spray two rows of vines at the same time, supplying two spraying nozzles, and stirs the liquid automatically. This pump is equipped with the Vermorel nozzles besides the return pipe for stirring 62 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. the liquid. The suction pipe has a fine strainer and the pump is furnished with a PUMP MOUNTED ON BARREL. long lever. The unusually large air chamber will continue to discharge the spray for over a minute after the operator stops pumping. These spraying machines are worked by gearing taking its power from the wagon Yy i i \)\ ii yy FIELD’S EMPIRE SPRAYING MACHINE. OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 63 wheels. It is a double acting force pump, the working parts that come in contact with the chemical liquids are made of brass and very durable. The pressure of the pumip is controlled by an automatic valve, thus preventing too great strain upon the hose while at work. There are four nozzles with stationary pipes so arranged, that one row on each side of the machine, as well as the higher and lower foliage on those vines can be sprayed at the same time; by means of elbows and fittings furnished the nozzles can be set at any angle desired. The spray may be also shut off on one side of the machine while it is in use on the other side. This machine is complete and perfect in every respect. Fully twice the work can be done witha horse power machine, than can be done when pumping by hand and with much less labor. Another, but less expensive automatic machine, is the Red Jacket Sprayer, suitable especially for small vineyards. It is a single wheel contrivance with tubular iron frame and a wooden tank holding about ten gallons, fitted with an endless inca & ) o RED JACKET SPRAYER. sprocket chain gearing, and has a mechanical automatic agitator which travels in a semi-circle in bottom of tank and keeps the mixture from settling. The pump and air chamber are brass, and the valves are metal. It has double tube sprayers for two rows of potatoes, and has two Vermorel Nozzies. The tubes are so arranged that they | can be set in a perpendicular position for spraying Grapevines, and can also be used for spraying currants, berries and other small fruits. It is pushed the same as any wheel barrow, the revolution of the wheel doing the work. By spraying with the copper remedies we are living in hope that we may so far overcome, the difficulties as to permit the successful growing of all our vaiuable market varieties. Weregard as the greatest importance the use of these recently discovered preventives against the various diseases which have been so prevalent and so discouraging to the Grape growers. We believe that their general adoption and general use will not only greatly enlarge the area of successful Grape growing, but also enable us to grow with profit many of the finer varieties in sections where it would be impossible without them. 64 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. Chemicals. The retail price charged by druggists for the chemicals required for making these mixtures, has prevented many persons from using them. The increasing demand however, has induced several firms to arrange for supplying them to Grape growers at wholesale rates, and that they may save to the consumer the expense of freight or express charges, on small quantities for long distances, distributing depots will be provided tn different parts of the country. Among the firms making a specialty of this business are the Nichols Chemical Co., New York, and the W. S. Powell & Co., Baltimore, Md. The latter firm also manufactures liquid and dry copperdines, prepared Bordeaux, and other ready mixed fungicides. The chrystal sulphate of copper can be obtained in five pound packages at five cents per pound, but in barrel lots the price is only three and one-half cents per pound. The copper carbonate costs sixty cents per pound, or fifty cents in larger quantities. Ammonia having a strength of twenty-six degrees retails at eighteen cents per pound (one pint) and considerable less by the carboy. Soda carbonate, sal- soda, or washing soda can be bought for less than one cent per pound in barrel lots. Good fresh lime is worth thirty cents per bushel. The commercial mixtures are for sale by several of the largest seedsmen, and when one has only a few vines to spray, although the prices charged for them seems unnecessarily high, they will be nearly as cheap as the chemicals at drug store prices. Where any numberof vines are to be sprayed, the chemicals at wholesale rates will be considerably cheaper. The question of the cost of material is of less importance, than the power to produce the effect intended. Next to spraying and almost as essential in Grape growing is the Bagging of Grapes as a preventive of Grape rot. The time to put them on, where the main object is to protect the fruit from rot or mildew, is just as soon as they have passed out of bloom, as the Grapes grow and increase in size very rapidly after that, and the spores floating a TD, BAGGING OF GRAPES. in the atmosphere may come in contact with the fruit and infect it before the bag is put on, only to develop later inside the bag. As soon as the clusters have set, the work should begin and be pushed as fast as possible until completed, for the sooner OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 65 the bunches are covered the less danger will there be of loss by mildew and rot. The best bags to use are the common manilla one and one-half or two pound paper bags, which can be bought at less than one dollar per thousand. These bags are slipped over the bunch, gathered on top and fastened by a small piece of needle wire around the stem which holds the cluster. Before the bags are put on the Grapes the both corners in the bottom of the bag should be cut off, thus allowing any water that may get into the bag to drain out. A man rapidly puts on over one thousand a day. Wet weather very seldom injures the bags, as they are protected by the foliage from the direct effects of storms. Injuries by birds are also avoided. The improvement in the appearance of the fruit where the paper bags are used is astonishing. The fruit comes out in the most perfect condition. Clusters appear larger, quality excellent and no imperfect berries. Whether it would pay on a large scale for market must depend upon the demand for fancy table fruit at prices above the average for Grapes in baskets as commonly shipped. Where a market can be found for this grade of fruit at corresponding prices, the outlay would be doubly repaid. INguRIOUS INSECTs. many places, and it is next to impossible for the fruit grower to progress far in his branch without finding some of these places of meeting. He recog- nizes the effect of insects on his crops by the production of fruit filled by these in ferti- lization, while on the other side the decrease in fruit by the ravages of noxious species, requires the fruit grower to keep a watchful eye on the intruder. From the economic standpoint, we have little to do with the species of value to the horticul- turist. Nature minds her own business, and these minute allies of the husbandman perform their duties unasked, though not unrewarded. Their importance will be conceded by all. The case, however, is far different with insects detrimental to the fruit grower. Along the elementary requirements necessary to the intelligent application of the methods to the prevention and killing off of these pests, we should study at first their peculiar habits. The class of creatures to which this name is applied, is very dif- ferent from all other kinds of animal life. The life of all insects begins with an embryo contained in an egg, differing from all others in the first active form emerging from the egg and the subsequent changes which take place before their lives are complete. The first form is usually entirely different, both in appearance and habits, from the parent which deposited the egg, and it is in this first active stage of their lives, that they do their growing and principal feeding. At this stage they are properly known as larva. After a.time, varying from a few days to several years, according to the species, they change into another form different from the first. In this second stage, certain kinds remain inactive without food until the perfect form develops within the shell, from which they emerge in due time to deposit eggs for another generation. This inactive form is called pupa. Injurious insects are divided into two divisions, according to their manner of feeding : Eerie as a science and horticulture, as an art or industry, meet in 66 OUR IUNATIVE: GRAPE, Ist. Biting or chewing insects, include all of those in the perfect or imperfect form, which bite and consume the substance upon which they feed. 2nd. Sucking or piercing insects, include all of those perfect or imperfect forms which pierce their food substance with a beak and suck out the sap or juice from beneath the surface. If a strange insect makes its appearance, threatening the destruction of some plant or crop, before selecting a method to repel or destroy it, it is necessary to ascer- tain how it feeds. If it belongs to the first division and eats the leaves, it may be easily destroyed by Paris Green applied to its food substance, either in a powder or liquid, as the poison will be eaten by them with their food. On the other hand, if belonging to the second division, that suck the sap from the plant, causing it to wither and die, poison will have no effect on them, because we cannot apply it to the inside of the plant where they get their food. Most of this class of insects may, however, be easily destroyed with remedies like insect powder, kerosene emulsion, etc., which kill by contact, where it is applied to the insects themselves. Dr. LINTNER, State Entomologist of New York, advances the theory that insects are attracted to plants, not by the sense of sight, but by that of smell, and that sub- stances giving off a strong odor like lamp oil, coal tar, carbolic acid, gasoline and the remedies applied to or near the plants to be protected, prevent egg deposit by giving out an odor overpowering that of the plant or animal itself, thereby preventing its recognition by the insect. If this theory is correct, the importance of the measure is evident, for as DR. LINTNER argues, ‘“‘if no eggs are deposited, we have no artificially concealed eggs to seek for; no larvee whose rapacity and destructiveness we must arrest; no pupze whose retreat is to be discovered and no perfect forms to be captured or entrapped.”’ If everyone were thoroughly acquainted with all insects, their habits, and methods of dealing with each, and would be persistent in the thorough and prompt application of preventive measures it would seem, that we should have no use for remedies. Itis safe to say, however, that such a condition will never exist ; and that after all, certain kinds of insects will appear, which will destroy certain crops, if they are not killed by the prompt application of poisonous and other substances. These remedies we will describe later on. ‘ The Grape like all other fruit, has enemies among the insects, which, if allowed to increase, would soon become a burden on our hands. We will briefly mention these insects, which have been the most injurious in our vineyards. Phylloxera. This insect has undoubtedly attracted the most attention among the Grape growers. It is impossible to give, in this manual, a history of this insect, the extent of its injuries, and the experiments made to prevent the same. We will, therefore, mention only a few facts, which will show the importance to recognize this insect. It was known many years ago on our native vines, as the Leaf-gall-louse, which was found to be identical with the Phylloxera of the Old World. It has been the most ruinous in our country among the European varieties planted in California. The destruction of vineyards in France by the Phylloxera has amounted to nearly a million acres. In 1874, a sum of 300,000 francs was alloted as a premium for the invention of some efficacious way of dealing with this pest, but up to last year this had not been claimed. Here is a little gauze-winged fly, which can be crused with the finger, defying all the science and intelligence ofthe world to extricateit. Various OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 67 experiments have been tried, but they have not been of very real use, and nothing but destroying the vines and not cultivating them as vineyards for a number of years has been generally adopted. There is in this country, for the most part east of the Rocky Mountains, very little to be feared from the Phylloxera, at least so far as our native vines are concerned. Most of the American varieties of Grapes are resistent to the root form of this insect, and, hence, suffer little injury. The Leaf- gall form is not particularly serious in its effects on the vine, except in a few thin- leaved varieties. The damage done by the Phylloxera in France and other parts of Europe, where it has obtained a foothold, is due to the root form exclusively. The danger in this country then, is confined to those localities, chiefly in Cali- fornia, where European varieties are grown. Within the last fifteen years, hundreds of acres have been destroyed in California by this pest, and grafting of foreign varieties on the roots of our native vines has been resorted to, thus rendering the vineyards proof against the attacks of the Phylloxera. The true criterion resistant is, that the vine and its roots will not only outlive the attacks, but flourish and bear remunera- tive crops, under the same conditions under which the most sensitive foreign vine will succumb. There are undoubtedly two distinct forms of the Phylloxera. The root-inhabiting type, which attacks the roots of European varieties, mostly found in California, and the leaf-inhabiting type, which flourishes mostly on the Riparia Class. A study of the life history of the Phylloxera shows that the larvee and small pro- portion of the wingless mother insects pass the winter in a dull, lifeless condition, but are easily brought to life and activity by a proper change in temperature. The middle of April finds the adult mother beginning to lay, and soon after young larvee are pee: and scattered to all parts of the roots. The increase is slow until = T=, ‘about the middle of June. Shortly after the larval = =\, form with rudimentary wings appears, and by the first £-) of July the winged formed is found fully developed. 4 The eggs of the mother-louse are most abundant at the zl a i cy) ZN | ‘ 184 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. RULANDER. (s/.) Origin unknown, but supposed to come from a foreign variety. Bunchsmall, compact, shouldered ; berry small, black, without pulp, juicy and sweet. Vine strong grower. Excellent wine grape. RUSTLER. (/yd.) Produced by T. V. Munson from Lindley crossed with Del- aware. No description given yet Several of these crosses raised from the finer vari- eties such as Salem, Agawam, Lindley, etc., have given size and richness of flavor to others of our best species, RUTLAND. (//yd.) Originated by D. S. Marvin, of Watertown, N. Y. Bunch and berry Eumelan size, blue-black ; vincus, sprightly, pulp melting, but seeds do not separate easily. Good quality. Ripens with Concord. SCUPPERNONG. SALEM. (A/yéb.) Rogers, No. 53. Produced by E. S. Rogers. Dark red; bunch large, compact, shouldered; berries large, round, skin thick and firm, flesh very sweet, tender, with a rich aromatic flavor. Vine moderately vigorous, hardy, healthy ; ripens earlier than Concord when not permitted to overbear. Is a splendid, keeper, a good shipper, and of best quality for both table and wine. SALLY. (//yd.) Produced by D. S. Marvin, N. Y. A hybrid between Dela- ware and Sherman. Berry size of Delaware, bunch smaller, white ; vigorous, healthy vine. More saccharine than Delaware. Fine for table, but more promising for champagne. Very early. SANBORNTON. (Laér.) Aseedling of Isabella, far superior. Bunch large, compact, sometimes shouldered, berry medium to large, blue-black, sweet, juicy, and fine flavor. Late ; origin unknown. oe OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 185 SARATOGA. See Fancher. SCHILLER. (@s7¢.)A seedling of Louisiana raised by F. Muench, Mo. Viue hardy; vigorous, healthy and productive. Berry purplish blue. Not disseminated. SCHUYLKILL MUSCAT. See Alexander. SCUPPERNONG. (Rotun.) This Grape is a pure southern Grape, a Vitis Rotun- difalia, found growing wild in Virginia, Mississippi, Florida. It is easily known from other Grapes by its small leaves, being glossy and smooth on both sides. Too tender for the North, but in the South very productive and an excellent wine Grape. Bunches small, loose, very seldom having more than six berries. Berries large, round ; quite pulpy, juicy, sweet with a strong musky flavor. SECRETARY. (//yd.) One of J. H. Ricketts’ seedlings, from Clinton crossed with Muscat Hamburg. Bunch and berry large, black, quality fine. Vine vigorous and hardy ; medium early ; subject to mildew. SEGAR BOX. See Ohio. SELMA. (7.) Originated by G. Segesseman, Amazonia, Mo., a seedling of Elvira and probably Concord. Large, perfect bunches nearly size of Concord, shoul- dered. Berry size of Ives, black, adheres firmly to the stem, keeping a long time, nearly round, juicy, sprightly, pleasant flavor ; skin quite thick and firm. Makes a good claret wine. Perfectly hardy, productive and healthy. Ripens a few days after Moore’s Early. SENASQUE. (fHyd.) Raised by S. W. Underhill, N. Y. from Concord and Black Prince. Bunch large, long, very compact, berry medium to large, black. Fine quality, vine moderately vigorous and productive. Ripens a little after Concord. SENECA. (Zaér.) Aseedling of Hartford raised by Mr. Simpson, N. Y. It is a fact that Hartford seedlings do not give rise to anything much superior to its parent nor to variations in color and seasons. No value in this Grape. SHAKER. See Union Village. SHARON. (Zadr.) A seedling of Adirondack introduced by D. S. Marvin N. Y., which it resembles, but sweeter, hardier and more reliable ; ripens at same time. SHEPPARD’S DELAWARE. See Delaware. SHERMAN. See Lyman. SHERRY. See Devereux. SILVER DAWN. (/yd.) Raised bythe late Dr. Culbert of Newburgh, N. Y., from Isabella crossed with Muscat Hamburg. Vine hardy and vigorous, fine white Grape of best quality. Not disseminated. SINGLETON. See Catawba. SMALL GERMAN. See York Madeira. SPARKLER. (///d.) A seedling of Delaware produced by T. V. Munson. No description given ; not disseminated. SPOFFORD SEEDLING. See To-Kalon. SPRINGMILL CONSTANTIA. See Alexander. ST. CATHARINE. (Zadr.) Raised by J. W. Clark, Framingham, Mass. A Grape with strong foxy flavor. Bunch large, berries large, sweet, dark red, hardy, vigorous and productive. STELTON. (yd.) Introduced by W. Thompson of New Brunswick, origin unknown. Bunches medium to large, shouldered; berries medium, whitish green, with white bloom, juicy, sweet and fine aroma. porous ripens about with Coucord, 186 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. a ST. GENEVIEVE. See Rulander. STANDARD. (Ayd.) A black Grape ; bunch large, shouldered ; berry large, tender, sweet, juicy, sprightly, vinous, with but little pulp ; vigorous, hardy, healthy, and productive ; an excellent market and very superior wine Grape ; subject some- what to rot. Originated from Delaware by John Burr. STORM KING (Zaér.) Aseedling of Concord raised by E. P, Roe, Cornwall, N. Y., resembling Concord, but berries are larger and have less foxiness. SUELTER. (Rip.) Originated by L. Suelter, Carver, Minn., from Riparia crossed with Concord. ——A\\\ SUPERB. OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 187 SUPERB. (Zs¢.) Originated with A. F. Rice, Griswoldville, Ga., from seed of the Eumelan raised at Weymouth, Mass. Vine hardy and a good grower, with short jointed. stocky, fine grained wood ; leaf large, thick dark green, and very healthy ; bunch large ; berry medium ; color black, with blue bloom ; seeds medium, quality superb, best, sweet and rich ; flavor pure and delightful, not a particle of ac- jd taste in the seeds or skin ; pulp tender, brittle, juicy ; skin thin, but tough ; flesh firm next to the skin; a little similar to the Malaga, does not crack or drop. It is very productive. It starts late, thus escaping late Spring frosts; it ripens early, two weeks earlier than the Concord, and is an excellent keeper and shipper. Very productive, needs thinning. SUPERIOR. (Ayé.) A new black Grape ; bunch medium, compact, handsome; berry medium, very tender, sweet, rich, sprightly, vinous, without pulp and of the very best qnality, superior to Supreme or Jewell; very strong grower, hardy, healthy and productive ; free from rot and mildew; a very valuable grape ; seedling of Jewell originated by John Burr. SUPREME. (#yd.) A new black Grape; bunch medium, compact; berry medium, tender, without pulp, sweet, rich, sprightly, vinous; quality better than Jewell, and about a week earlier; hardy, healthy, vigorous and productive, free from rot and mildew ; seedling of Delaware, originated by John Burr. TALLMAN, See Champion. TASKER GRAPE. See Alexander. TAYLOR. (7.) Introduced by Judge Taylor, of Ky. This grape needs planting among some varieties from which its flowers will fertilize in order to produce fair bunches. Some pruning is also recommended. Bunches small, compact; ber- ries small, pale amber, round, sweet ; strong, healthy grower, and hardy. TAYLOR’S BULLET. See Taylor. TEKOMA. See Catawba. TELEGRAPH. (Labdr.) Raised by Mr. Christine of Westchester, Pa. It is one of the most promising of the newearly Grapes, Black; bunch and berry medium jarge and compact ; very little pulp; very productive, hardy and healthy. Ripens as early as the Hartford, and is of better quality. THEMIS. (A#yé.) Originated with E. Engle, Paw Paw, Mich., seedling of Sa- jyem- Vine a strong grower, short jointed, hardy, large leaves. Berries large, round, red, thick skin, flesh firm, meat rich with hard pulp. Bunch medium, sometimes shouldered. THEODOSIA. (s7/.) Raised from a chance seedling by E. S. Salisbury, Adams, N. Y. Bunch medium, compact, sometimes shouldered ; berries small to medium, black, juicy and acid. Very early ; good wine grape. THEOPHILE. (ZLabdr.) Originated by T. Huber, Sr., Ill. Bunch large, com- pact, sometimes shouldered. Berry large, white, with delicate bloom ; juicy, sweet, vinous. Very good quality ; ripens before Concord. THOMAS (otun.) Introduced by D. Thomas, S. C., a variety of the Scupper- nong. Berries large, oblong, purplish violet, thin skin, transparent, sweet and ten- der, vinous ; superior to Scuppernong. THOMPSON’S SEEDLING. No, 1. (Zaédr.) A seedling of Brighton grown by J T. Thompson, Oneida, N. Y., resembling it very closely, fully equal in quality and so far as tested, early and better keeper. THURMOND. See Devereux. ’ OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 189 THOMPSON’S SEEDLING, No. 2. (Ayé.) A seedling of Agawam. Fruit very sweet, skin and pulp alittle tough ; a most excellent keeper. Very strong grower and productive. Ripens a few days before Concord. TO=KALON. (Zadér.) Originated with Dr. Spofford, Lansingburg, N. Y. Bunch medium to large, compact, shouldered , berries medium black. Vine vigor- ous, healthy and hardy, quality excellent. Early but shy bearer. TOLMAN. See Champion. TRANSPARENT. (7/.) One of Taylor’s Seedlings. Bunch and berry small to medium, white, transparent; very juicy, sweet and of fine flavor. Vine a rank grower ; a wine Grape of high character. TRASK. (//yd.) A chance seedling raised by F. Roenbeck, N. J. Large bunch, moderately compact ; berries medium, brownish red when fully ripe, sweet and juicy ; vigorous grower, hardy and prolific. Fruit needs thinning out. Early. TRIUMPH. (Ayé.) Originated by George W. Campbell, Delaware, O., from Concord and Chasselas Musque. A very fine white Grape, very large in bunch and berry, and of fine quality south and where.the season is long enough for it to ripen. It is a late Grape, requiring a long season, and suited specially to southern latitudes. A large demand exists for it throughout the South. Ripens about with the Catawba. Not suited to the far North. TROWBRIDGE. See Isabella. TRYON. See York Madeira. TULEY. See Devereux. U. B. See Marine’s Seedling. UHLAND. (A7f.) A seedling of Taylor raised by W. Weidemeyer, Mo. Green- ish yellow, delicate, very sweet and fine flavor. Strong grower, ripens a few days after Concord. ULSTER PROLIFIC, (Zadr.) A very desirable new red variety. A seedling of Catawba crossed with a native wild variety of the A¥stivalis class. Originated by A. J. Caywood of N. Y. Medium bunch and berry, skin thin but tough. Very sweet and of exquisite flavor. It ripens with the Concord; keeps and carries well. The vine is very hardy, healthy, vigorous and productive. UNDINE. (Zaér.) Originated by J. H. Ricketts, N. Y. A seedling of Concord and Clinton. Clusters large, shouldered, berries size of Concord, pale green inclining to cream color as it fully ripens. Quality very fine, sprightly, vigorous grower with healthy foliage. A promising Grape for a southern climate. UNDERHILL. (Zaérv.) Introduced by Dr. A. K, Underhill, of Charlton, N. Y. A wild red Fox Grape, of no value and discarded. UNION VILLAGE. (Zaér.) Originated among the Shakers of Union Village, O. Large, compact bunches, shouldered, very large berries, round, black with deli- cate bloom, juicy, rich and vinous ; pleasant flavor, vigorous grower, ripens late. UNA. (Labdr.) Aseedling from Concord raised by E. W. Bull, Concord Mass. Bunches and berries medium to large, pure white, changing to golden amber when tipe. Hardy and prolific. UNO. See Juno. URBANA. (Zaédr.) A seedling from Concord raised in Indiana. Bunch me- dium, shouldered, berries medium, round, yellowish white, juicy and vinous. Ripens after Concord. 90 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. ULSTER PROLIFIC. a OUR NATIVE GRAPE. I9I URSULA. (Laér.) Produced by T. Huber, Sr., Ill. Bunch small, compact, berries small, white, flesh melting, juicy and sweet. Fine quality, vigorous grower, ripens with Concord. s % Meso PRO Cx VERGENNES. VERGENNES. (Labér.) Originated with Wm. E. Green, Vergennes, Vt. A chance seedling found growing in his garden. Ripens after Concord; bunch of me- dium size, berry large, skin thick and tough. Vine very vigorous, healthy and pro- ductive, hardy ; quality excellent ; a splendid keeper and shipper. This is a Grape which growers will be inclined to keep and cultivate. A good market Grape vine- 192 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. yardists have been looking forward to, The Vergennes is on the way to become as popular and useful in the sense that the Concord is. VENANGO. (Zadr.) An old variety said to be cultivated by the French at Fort Venango many years ago. A vigorous grower and hardy, medium bunch, com- pact, berries medium, pale red, white bloom, sweet and foxy. VEVAY. See Alexander. VICTOR. See Early Victor. VICTORIA. (Ayd.) Produced by the late T. B. Miner. Bunch large, shoul- dered ; berries large, white, skin thick, flesh sweet, juicy, somewhat pulpy; quality good, about the same as Lady. Vine a good grower, hardy and healthy, with thick, heavy Concord foliage. The best of Miner’s seedlings. VICTORIA, RAYS. (Zadr.) Introduced by M. M. Samuels of Clinton, Ky., re- sembling the Venango. Bunch and berry medium, round, pale red, sweet and highly flavored. Vine vigorous, prolific. VICTORIA. (Zadr.) Another Grape of the same name originated by Dr. H. Schroeder. Bloomington, Ill, from Champion. It resembles its parent in growth, color and fruit. Bunches and berries larger, a remarkably fast grower, with the strongest tendrils of all Grapes. Earlierthan Champion. Excellent wine Grape, making a fiery, brilliant red wine. VINITA. (A/yd.) Raised by T. V. Munson from Post Oak crossed with Herbe- mont. A southern Grape of vigorous growth, very prolific, best quality. Large clus- ters, shouldered, berries small to medium, purple, thin skin but tough, juicy, melt- ing. WALTER. (ZLaér.) Originated by A. J. Caywood & Son, N. Y., from crossing the Delaware with Diana. One of the best introduced by them and very valuable for wine ; bunch medium,:compact, shouldered ; berries medium, light red, round, juicy, sweet, of the very best quality, subject to mildew in some localities. Vine vigorous and hardy, ripens with Concord. WARDER. See Dr. Warder. WARREN. See Herbemont. WARRENTON. See Herbemont. WATERTOWN, (47yé.) Produced by D. S. Marvin, Watertown, N.Y. Bunch medium, sometimes shouldered, berry medium, white, slightly oblong, sweet, fine quality, good grower, fine table Grape. WAVERLY. (Ayé.) Raised by J. H. Ricketts from Clinton and one of the Muscats. Black, very vigorous, hardy, healthy and productive. WELLS. (Laér.) Originated by C. I. Robords, Butler, Mo, The fruit is as large as Pocklington, oval, bronze or dark wine color, sweet and aromatic, hanging well to the vine for weeks in perfect condition. A healthy, good grower with large substantial foliage. A good shipper and keeper, ripensa little after Concord. WEMPLE. See Cuyahoga. WHITE ANN ARBOR. (Zaér.) Introduced by C. H. Woodruff, Ann Arbor, Mich. A Concord seedling. Color pure white, in quality very fine, moderately pro- ductive, free from disease and very hardy, ripens nearly two weeks ahead of Concord. WHITE CAPE. (Zaédr.) Similar to Alexander, only that its color isa green- ish white. OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 193 WHITE BEAUTY. (4yd.) A white Grape ; bunch very large, long, shoul- dered, compact, handsome; berry medium to large, firm but tender, sprightly, rich, vinous, of a pure refined quality, very vigorous, hardy, healthy and immensely pro- ductive ; free from rot and mildew. This is the most perfect late white Grape in Kansas ; ripening with the Concord, and will hang until hard frost ; will ship any- where ; a valuable market Grape ; originated from Duchess, by Dr. J. Stayman. WHITE CATAWBA. (Zaér.) Raised by John E. Mottier and abandoned by him as being inferior to its parent. WHITE CLOUD. (fyd.) A white Grape; bunch large, compact, handsome ; berry large, tender, juicy, sprightly, sweet, of best quality ; vigorous, hardy, healthy and very productive ; free from rot and mildew, ripe about with Concord, and will hang on the vines long after ripening; a fine, valuable grape; originated from Duchess by Dr. J. Stayman. WHITE DELAWARE SEEDLINGS. There are several white seedlings of the Delaware, of which the following two are the best under this name : White Delaware. (//yd.) Originated by G. W. Campbell, Delaware, O. A pure Delaware seedling. Bunch like its parent, compact and shouldered, berry greenish white with thin white bloom. Vigorous grower, foliage large, thick and heavy; ripens early. White Delaware. (7yé.) Produced by J, Rommel, Morrison. Mo. Del. Seed- ling, No. 16). Vine healthy, but moderate grower, very productive, bunch médium, compact, shouldered, berry medium, covered with a most beautiful white bloom. Very sweet, pure flavor, delicious, skin tough with no pulp, fine keeper and shipper. not subject to rot ; one half of its clusters should be removed early in the season, liable to overbear and overtax the vine ; ripens with Concord. WHITEHALL. (Zaér.) Originated in Washington Co. N. Y., with Geo. Goodale. A chanceseedling ; bunch large and compact ; berries medium, dark pur- ple, almost black ; melting and sweet ; ripens a week or two before Hartford. WHITE IMPERIAL. (Ayd.) A white Grape; bunch large and compact, hand- some; berry medium, firm, tender, sweet, rich, sprightly, vinous; of the most ex- quisite, refined, indescribable flavor ; very vigorous, hardy, healthy and productive ; very nearly free from rot and has never mildewed ; ripe very early and will hang on the vines long after being ripe; originated from Duchess by Dr. J. Stayman. WHITE JEWELL. (7f.) Introduced by Dr. Stayman. A white Grape of the Riparia class; bunch medium, long, very compact, handsome ; berry medium, very juicy, sweet, sprightly, of good quality, very vigorous, hardy, healthy and im- mensely productive ; free from rot and mildew, the earliest white Grape in Kansas. Originated from Elvira. WHITE MUSCADINE, See Scuppernong. WHITE’S NORTHERN MUSCAT. (Ayé.) Originated by W. T. White, Troy, O. A seedling of the Brighton fertilized by Muscat, which it very much resembles in size and aroma. Berries medium, round, amber in color, and sweet ; hardy and vigorous; also known as the Culinary Grape. WHITE VIRGINIA SEEDLING. (Ayé.) Produced by J. Balsiger, Highland, Ill, Probably the product of an accidental cross between Norton’s Virginia and some other variety. Wood, foliage and growth very similar to Nortons; good throughout, excessive bearer of medium sized bunches and berries, ripening a little later than Concord ; vine healthy, vigorous ; fruit sweet when ripe; white, best suited for wine. To4 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. * SN SS \\ WILDER. WILDER. (Ayd.) Rogers No. 4; originated by E. S. Rogers, Salem, Mass. Bunch very large, compact, shouldered; berry large, round, black ; flesh tender, slight pulp at, center, juicy, sweet. Ripens about with Concord. Vine vigorous, hardy and a good bearer. Regarded as one of the best of the black varieties, and on account of its size and beauty is very valuable for market. ee i ee ee. OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 195 WHITE MUSCAT OF NEWBURG. (Zaér.) Raised by the late Dr. W. A. Culbert from Hartford hybridized with Iona. Vine hardy and vigorous grower, bunch and berry of fair size with a fine Muscat aroma. WILDING. (£7f.) Introduced by J. Rommelof Mo. A sport of a wild seedling Grape. Vine very vigorous, healthy ; bunch and berry medium size ; berry light straw color almost transparent, sweet, juicy, and without pulp, skin thin and tender, productive vine, hardy, not subject to mildew or rot. Ripens with Concord. WILLIE. (ZLaédr.) A half sister to the Lutie, a seedling of Northern Muscatine crossed with Concord, produced by Dr. L. C. Chisholm at Nashville, Tenn. Fruit larger than Concord both in cluster and in berry, very showy, dark or nearly black with whitish bloom ; skin not as thin as Concord ; vinous and sprightly, not foxy, an excellent wine Grape ; vine a vigorous, healthy grower, very productive, ripens with Concord. WILLIS. (Del/.) A Delaware seedling originated with W. W. Jones, Canargo, Ill. Bunch medium to large, compact ; berry medium, round, amber, rich and sweet. Vigorous grower, foliage thick and healthy. WILMINGTON. (?) Originated on the farm of Mr. Jeffries near Wilmington, Del. Vine very vigorous, hardy, bunches large, loose, sometimes shouldered, berries large, round, greenish white; ripens late. WILMINGTON RED. (Zaédr.) Raised by Dr. S. J. Parker, Ithaca, N. Y. See Wyoming Red. WINCHELL. (Laér.) Introduced by Ellwanger & Barry, Rochester, N. Y. A new white Grape, very valuable on account of its fine quality and earliness ; vigor- - ous, hardy and productive ; it is considered a variety of great merit. WINNE. See Alexander. WINSLOW. (7/.) Originated in the garden of Chas. Winslow, Cleveland, O. The vine resembles Clinton, is hardy and productive, bunch medium, compact, berry small, round, black, vinous and juicy, very early. WITT. (Zaér.) Originated by Mr. Witt, Columbus, Ohio. Probably the best of all the white Concord seedlings. Large iu bunch and berry; healthy in growth and foliage ; very productive, pure flavored, and best in quality. It ripens early, and has every requisite for a first-class Grape for general use in all Grape growing locali- ties. WOLF. See York Madeira. WOODBURY WHITE. (Ayé.) Originated and introduced by D. B. Woodbury, Paris, Me. Grown from hand fertilized seed from a white seedling of Delaware. The vine as a grower resembles the Delaware. Bunch medium to large, compact ; berry as large as the Concord, slightly oblong, greenish white with fine bloom ; skin thin but tough, adhering to the flesh, almost transparent ; juicy and sweet, good qual- ity very mild in flavor, an extra good keeper, ripens two weeks before Concord; a fine acquisition to our early white Grapes. WOODWARD. See Isabella. WOODRUFF RED. (Zaér.) Originated with C. H. Woodruff, Ann Arbor, Mich, A chance seedling, probably a cross between Concord and Catawba. A new grape of ironclad hardiness, A rank grower and very healthy. The fruit is large in bunch and berry, attractive, shouldered, sweet and of fair quality, but somewhat foxy. Does not crack nor drop from stem. Desirable as a market variety where many others fail. 196 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. WOODRUFF SEEDLING, No. 4. (Zaér.) Also raised by C. H. Woodruff, Mich., from seed of Catawba; in quality about like Delaware ; bunch and berry muck larger, hardy and productive. Color like Delaware, very promising WOODRUFF SEEDLINGNo. 5. (Hyd.) Raised from seed of Gcethe (Rogers No. 1). Color white with little pink on thesunny side; a Grape of fine quality, but too late to grow with profit in the North. Hardy and productive, bunch and berry large and handsome, sweet and juicy ; ripens with Catawha. WORDEN. (ZLaér.) Originated by S. Worden,of Minetta, N. Y. Raised from Concord seed. This excellent Grape has come tothe front by merit alone. A fine, large, handsome black Grape, of the Concord character, large in bunch and berry, and very handsome. In quality distinct from Concord, generally regarded as better, and ripens a week or ten days earlier. Vine vigorous, healthy, very productive and hardy. A valuable early variety, becoming very popular, and taking the place of the Concord at the North, where Concord does not always ripen perfectly. It is in reality an important gain for the Grape grower. WORTHINGTON. See Clinton. WRIGHT’S ISABELLA. See Isabella. WYMAN. See To-Kalon. WYOMING RED. (Zaér.) Raised and introduced by Dr. S. J. Parker, Ithaca, N.Y. A very early red Grape; a good grower, very healthy and hardy, bunch and berry small to medium; coppery red, sweet but a little foxy ; desirable for garden and vineyard. WYNANT. (Zaédrv.) A chance seedling grown by D. W. Babcock, Dansville, N. Y. Very similar, almost identical to Duchess. YANKEE. (Zadr.). A seedling of Concord grown by J. W. Gray, Atwood, Il. Bunch medium, often shouldered, compact, transparent; berries large, round, pea green with fine bloom ; good flavor, sweet ; a slow, light grower, hardy, large leaf, ripens a little before ‘Concord. YELLOW TIUSCADINE. See Scuppernong. YORK LISBON. See Alexander. YORK MADEIRA. (ZLadr.) Supposed to be a seedling of Isabella, originated at York, Pa. Bunch medium, compact, shouldered ; berry medium, round, black, Sweet, sprightly, pleasant ; colors early, but does not ripen quite as early as Isabella ; vine hardy, vigorous and productive. YOUNG AMERICA. (ZLabdr.) A Concord seedling raised by S. Miller, resembl- ing the Concord. YONKERS HONEY DEW. (Zaér.) Originated on the Hudson. It is apure native ripening with the Hartford and in some respects superior to that variety ; berry large, round, black with blue bloom ; bunch large, long, compact, skin thick, flesh pulpy but sweet. Vine vigorous and productive, Concord foliage, healthy, early. ZELIA. (Hyd.) Produced by C. J. Copley, Stapleton, N. Y. Telegraph crossed with Black Hamburg ; bunch very large, medium compact, berries very large, black with a fine bloom, skin thin but tough and does not crack. Very rich sherry flavor, medium vigorous grower, productive, ripens early. ZINNIA. (Laér.) Origin unknown, bunch very large, loose, shouldered ; berry medium, round, black with a rich bloom ; worthless. COLERAIN—See page 116. } 7 ConrTENTS. MECHION.. ee a See eatin hs Bo ers LENS Ts Ce Oe ed 3 mistory or theiGrape’.. = 24504 oe bs PESTER Ge raion Coat 5 Sac eh nS a Re PARR” Lat ee ORM ye rc 8 ECU PING. a) Seen) Be STS, 5 oa) 0 sl koe oh. EL RN ae see Io Short Cuttings—Long Cuttings—Layering—Root Grafting. . ee kre ae MNAMEM NIRS ot Me NG A ets eS! oS gl a? duscs Pelee er, bw Re Ro ad ete ee 13 Production of New Seedling Grapes—Proposition to Protect the Originators. (SS SLL eS ea Sols pet Caer ayy amet Mimi hes hfe SS 17 TEI MEER PP Ghd oo Pe eo lo ke be ae 18 Location and Soil—Planting—Second Year—Trellises—Third Year—Fourth Year—Selection of Varieties—Imperfect Fertilization. ... ....... eter re NECN AL PPOMIE! Hoo Sel no bn dh a ee Ghee ce 28 MNINNE Se AMIEL MAN ITAIN SE ooo gaa) Sieh aa. av a cn eke Doh hove ela Nae e 29 Knifiin System—Fan System—Munson’s erate Renewal System—Single Post System—Caywood Overhead System—Summer Pruning—Thinning GEADCS eens men Pita tenis ek Peete iq core Saas to) olka ah Weak SSD eeey Wie ee Met Oe CInApe 2-8 Ne en BS) Stew ate te i 37 Layer Grafting—Whip Grafting -Waguer System—Clet Grafting—A New Method of Grafting. ...... : Ua? Sag d aa ee 1 TUTE LLLES sg We) a ee ak ee ets a ea Seer ROAR ery NIRS h en Pas gS by 44 PRU ZERS wen Chet es, Saisy hile lah wate a| dents GS ler gh 1 ye aaah oe ae 45 Commercial Her tilizer—-Manure—Wood ones sn, ae gS. hoi is ORME Se Be ARG RI ONCE IMS UICADS iss yh SS ats A we Oe pag Re ee ee 48 Black Rot—Downy Mildew—Powdery Mildew—Anthracnose—Bitter Rot— White Rot—Rougeot—Ripe Rot—Bordeaux Mixture—Ammoniacal Solution of Copper Carbonate—Eau Celeste—Modified Eau Celeste—Treatment of Black Rot—Mildew—Anthracnose—Spraying Outfits ........... RSME ALGM ES te iota: aan Ree ES liid.o bee ER EOD Se gat a eS eee 64 PUMPER IG ENOCADES tts hs en ey uc My Gas) "Ae Vey eae eae 64 RMEMIDUSNMISCCES OOS ii oo cre. ae se Glen, Set ea), Pe aa ee 65 Phylloxera—Grape Leaf Hoppez—Grape Nine Flea Meereeieeee Chafer— Grape Berry Moth—Grape Vine Scale Insect—Grape Leaf Galls—Grape Seed Midge-—Grape Curculio—Grape Leaf Folder—Lady Bird—Thrips—Birds Ragone Grapes Insecticides: 65.6 ac. sche? ORC ane teal Ss Ln Coe Mmanvestine.o8; Grapes... se ee ii Oe Sige Fey OP, Ae 76 PEE OL CIEANCS 5, 6g) ci ch) dual seas eee A bs Gaahhy Salen eles aut eg 79 Commission Men........:.. oa a a te Sat aan POREA tra shtcaa alice ite ee arena 83 ME RMPRNM ASE S R.A it ce ark oe bs och’ aby Nitrw by ging: aloes Plaats LR Sem tiarihy Purses, kot Fruit Houses and FruitRooms........... SURG as a aie ah eee eas 85 MOLE StOLaASels es bee es Lee Sor eare hare CTA Es Ponts ko Mr ss eae. 86 2 SESS NTE) 8) CC ES MA oe SL a ratiee tua 87 RRM RFCM ENE en TSR ae OLN ES ey ON ga al Wa Pet treme” BY rm gale ee okies a 89 Red Wine—White Wine—Sweet Wine—Unfermented Grape Juice—Home- PURMRE NE ER OM LURCE Pie Ky casow lng ab icit'< ior o's sane Fuels sarc (oewhead ds, goer ame hal cates eae RE MENS ER EAR PAA RASRGO NL” ak pp cet yee) (shied. 50. Gey ko eae aL! Mb etsy ake oe eee ee 94 Mseful Information... .....-...4.. Ot ial SE My Ren ho = make ey baal i aad 96 Descriptive List of Old and New Varieties . gree Cd Re ok ala uae ae CS Et a a ce 97 if pisiniae Mag rsd: “sca pleat te tie vf yu ee ees Be =A ma ia si: bi oe: 7 Pee ef. Eh tS Mh ssh gt Ee Se iay Tits be Sonne ¥ pis . eee Peg i Getied e. ay ey nt WoOte aS ; Y varia pike Ai; W. tbe aS ; ey ote rag al a = ean ids a “i Max! ay ie ; bes a. ae. fy ie a-ha tat as ir rt ney : vain 4 pete tat’ eas a 5 4 Sats teetiyss ° vy 41 Eg ‘ Ar dats = asy + phil ek Us del oe ee see 2 Mare Sail greases sah ess” As OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 20r THE CULTIVATOR - AND .- Country Gentleman. THE BEST OF THE AGRIGULTURAL WEEKLIES. DEVOTED TO Farm Crops and Processes, Horticulture and Fruit- Growing, Live-Stock and Dairying. While it also includes all minor departments of Rural interest, such as the Poultry Yard, Entomology, Bee-Keeping, Greenhouse and Grapery, Veterinary Replies, Farm Questions and Answers, Fireside Reading, Domestic Economy, and a summary of the News of the Week. The Horticultural Department (under the editorship of the veteran JOHN J. THOMAS), is a special and leading feature. Its MARKET REPORTS. are unusually complete, and much attention is paid to the Prospects of the Crops. It is liberally illustrated, and 1t contains more reading matter than ever before. The sub- scription Price is $2.50 per year, but we offer a SPECIAL REDUCTION in our —= =CLUB RATES==- Two Subscriptions, in Oneremittance, - - $ 4.00 Six Subscriptions, ‘ rf - = 10.00 Twelve Subscriptions,“ iy - 18.00 Bes SPECIMEN COPIES FREE. Address LUTHER TUCKER & SON, Pusuisuers ALBANY, N. Y. 202 OUR NATIVE GRAFE. \imstrong @ r ey ws fa NS PROPRIETORS AND MANUFACTURERS OF Lk G The Pertect Spring Fruit Crate. THE AVERAGE OF ALL ACCOUNT. = DALES OF GRAPES DURING FALL OF 1892 WAS12% PER S rh eee LRT ITR eT eo CENT. OR 13% CENTS “PER BASKET > HIGHER 7 AVAN 7 EN oni OTHER PACKAGE. WRITE FOR CIRCULARS AND INFORMATION TO ATWATER ARMSTRONG & CLARKE, 45 WAREHOUSE ST., ROCHESTER, N. Y. This illustration was made from a photograph of fair samples of the different grades of our Vines reduced to one-tenth their natural length. We take great pride and comfort in our ability to furnish strong, fibrous rooted stock so well appreciated by intelligent and experienced fruit growers. WHOLESALE TRADE ESPECIALLY SOLICITED. CATALOGUE FREE. LEWIS ROESCH, = FREDONIA, N. Y. GRAPE VINE SPECIALIST, AND GENERAL NURSERYMAN, When writing state where you saw this advertisement. 204 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. Trt E BRADLEY FERTILIZERS. ae increased yearly sales of BRADLEY’S FERTILIZERS for the past thirty-one years, since 1861, are illustrated by these pyramids. The sales in 1861 were about 500 tons, as represented by this SMALLEST PYRAMID lame ISGI. This Pyramid indicates the {892 sales of Bradley’s Fertilizers. THE REASONS FOR THIS INCREASE: The BRADLEY FERTILIZER CO. use only the besé of crude mate- rials, which are carefully prepared by approved machinery according to formulas based upon thorough field tests, thus furnishing the best plant- food possible to secure. These essential requisites, combined with liberal dealings with the farmers, have made the BRADLEY FERTILIZER CO. the largest manufacturers of Commercial Fertilizers in the world. Y | For full information and Illustrated Pamphlets, address BRADLEY FERTILIZER CO. No. 92 State St., BOSTON, MASS. OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 205 PRAYING PUMPS LPAtES?, CHEAPEST, BEST. Spraying has patd others, wt well : PAY YOU. We can furnish you OUTFITS ranging in price from $3.00 to $70.00. Guaranteed satisfactory in every respect. Recom- mended by the Department of Agriculture. OUR REFERENCES.—G. T. Powell, Conductor of Institutes; Mortimer Whitehead, Grange Lec- turer; J. S. Woodward, Lecturer. READ! READ! READ! SPRAYING APPARATUS.—He who attempts to grow fruits nowadays without a spraying outfit, goes into the work handicapped. Blight and bugs, rot and dust, mold and mildew—all conspire to damage the crop, and in all cases succeed to a greater or less extent if the horticulturist does not spray. The very best goods in this line are made by the FIELD ForcE Pump Company, of Lockport, N. Y. Pamphlets giving formulas for all the best spraying compounds sent on application.— Rural New- Yorker. *‘T value your pumps very highly. A. J. COOK, Agricultural College, Mich.” ‘“We are well pleased with the Outfits purchased of you last season. W. M. MUNSON, Agricultural Station, Maine.’’ “‘T have no hesitation in recommending your Knapsack Sprayer as the best for our people, and have written the State Business Manager of the Farmers’ Alliance to that effect. GERALD McCARTHY, Botanist, N. C. Experiment Station, Raleigh, ING C.?? CATALOGUE AND BOOK OF INSTRUCTIONS FREE. met. FORGE PUMP CO, 20 BRISTOL SQUARE, LOCKPORT, N. Y. = se \\; = SE TW-. = A TTT i ‘< Z i WN {10 / | — || INS Tl ro ' H} —— H th 1 I in i i ! fh) ! i i f en ii ell HH D ~ C\ go — AY H hi = — ES i Wi a = Low Caan GIFT S BERRY BASKET, BOARD BOTTOM PEACH BASKET. OAK SPLINT HALF BUSHEL THE ABOVE ARE SOME OF THE MANY GOOD THINGS WE MAKE FOR FRUIT GROWERS. STRICTLY FIRST-CLASS GOODS. REASONABLE PRICES. if You Want Anything in the line of fruit packages, write us before buying. Illustrated Catalogue mailed free on application. DIsSRoOw MFG. coc., INCORPORATED 1878 ROCHESTER, Ni ¥e F OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 207 : Bushberg Grape Nurseries, AMERICAN GRAPE VINES. OUR SPECIALTY [;argest Assortment, Best Quality, [Lowest Prices. (B)* GROW OUR VINES IN OPEN FIELD CULTURE WITH GOOD CULTIVATION AND PLENTY OF ROOM FOR FULL DEVELOPMENT OF STRONG HEALTHY ROOTS AND GOOD TOPS. SEND FOR PRICE-LIST. . ADDRESS BUSH @ SOM G TMETSSHIER. oes BUSHBERG, 10. 208 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. Registered Holstein Cattle. HARDY FRUITS FOR THE NORTH WEST. INTRODUCERS OF THE NORTH STAR CURRANT. The ‘‘ North Star Currant ’’ is an accidental seedling, probably of the Victoria, — as, like that variety, it is seldom affected by the borer. Its bunches are much larger than any other currant and in consequence it can be much quicker harvested. It exceeds all other varieties in productiveness and, were it not for its great vigor of growth, it would, by overbearing soon become exhausted. We have spent five years in giving ‘‘ The North Star’’ as rigorous a test as the extremes of climate, to be found ina scope of territory ranging from New England to the Rocky Mountains, would afford. We take pleasure in presenting herewith a few testimonials of our ‘‘ North Star.”’ These reports, coming from all parts of the country, only strengthen what we already knew, that it is far ahead of any currant ever offered to the public. NEw CARLISLE, Aug. 3, 1891. JEWELL NURSERY Co., LAKE CiITy, MINN. GENTLEMEN: The “North Star”’ is perfectly at home on my place. Did not lose a single plant out of the Ioosent me. They have made a good strong growth, notwithstanding the severe drouth. I expect much from them. Yours truly, W. N. SCARFF. SPRINGFIELD, MASS., July 16, 1891. JEWELL NURSERY Co., LAKE City, MINN. GENTLEMEN: Our plants have produced several bushels in such quantities and quality that we are more than ever pleased with them. Merchants have come to the nursery for them, paying us from Io to 12 cents per quart, and we have had to refuse many orders. Yours truly, J. W. ADAMS & CO. From the Florist Exchange: “The ‘North Star Currant’ put on the market two years ago by the Jewell Nursery Co., of Minnesota, has evidently proved to be quite an acquisition to our list of Standard varieties, for we notice that in many of the spring catalogues it is highly spoken of by leading nurserymen who seldom catalogue any new fruit or give it words of praise until fairly well tested upon their own grounds. This variety has the faculty of holding its foliage until very late in the fall, thus aiding to develop the strongest possible fruit buds. STATE BOARD OF AGRICULTURE, Rhode Island—Report 1892-93. Among those currants which I value both for market and home use, a new sort, called ‘‘ North Star,’’ and at present held at high prices, stands very near the head of the list. Each plant bears a metal seal as a guarantee that it is genuine. Corres= pondence solicited. ; LAKE City, MINN. THE JEWELL NURSERY CO. OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 209 ESTABLISHED 1877. POTTER & WILLIAMS, COMMISSION MERCHANTS, ELK STREET MARKET, BUFFALO, N. Y. Cae SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE SALE OF GRAPES. ALL CONSIGNMENTS SOLD PROMPTLY AND SHIP- PHRS PAID OFF PROMPTLY. OUR LOCATION IS EQUAE TO ANY IN BUFFALO. Be Wil T<& CO.e COLUMBUS, OHIO. een Jropieal and Domestic Fruits. IN GENERAL COMMISSION MERCHANTS. 111 S. FOURTH ST. (MARKET SQUARE.) 236 NORTH THIRD ST. Ship your GRAPES and other Fruits to iS) PALMER, RIVENBURG & Go., Successors To G. S. PALMER. WHOLESALE COPAMISSION MERCHANTS, 166 READE STREET, NEW YORK. Established in 1869. Prompt and Reliable, Write them for rubber stamps, market reports, etc., and give them a good trial, and you will be perfectly satisfied with results. REFERENCES: Chatham National Bank, Mercantile Agencies and all the principal Grape shippers. 210 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. SHIP YOUR FRUIT TO BUFFALO'S REPRESENTATIVE FRUIT HOUSE. F. BRENNISON & SON, GENERAL Commission MERCHANTS, 44 W. MARKET ST. BUFFALO, N, Y. 103 micuican sr, RUBBER STAMPS FURNISHED ON APPLICATION. REFERENCES: Queen City Bank, Buffalo, N. Y.; Yates County National Bank, Penn Yan, N. Y.: Geneva National Bank, Geneva, N. Y.; McKechnie & Co. Bank, Canandaigua, N. Y.; State Bank Brocton, N. Y.; Fredonia National Bank, Fredonia, N. Y. alia 286 Butler, Ed., Vineyardist, Penn Yan, Ne Ye - Hollowell & Wise, Penn Yan, N. Y. ESTABLISHED 1849. OLD AND RELIABLE. B. PRresvey of Coe The Leading Wholesale Fruit and Commission House in the North West. ST. PAUL, MINN. _ f Season 1891, Seventy-Three Car loads. ae ee (oe 1892, Ninety-One Car Loads. Stecher itho¢raphie Co. ROCHESTER, Ne YE ARTICULAR ATTENTION GIVEN TO PLAIN AND COLORED WORK USED BY NUR- SERYMEN, SEEDSMEN AND FLORISTS, THE BEST | THAT: CAN: BE MADE, OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 211 WILLOW BASKETS. ROCHESTER - BASKET -GO,, OFFICE AND FACTORY, 164 to 176 ORCHARD and 171 to 188 MAGNE STS., ROGHESTBR, N. Y. BASKETS. . vo wv 562 5 meres a oo. 22 as ° = wink yp = w 668 Wn — @255 x= ne le) oS Ro ae = Hm | 32 uw Ae Pape ee axes | Z sae i Ona ce =} = 2 |Z2o wm | nee ca ea ¥ St eal es) 3 8 _> oa 2 re zor |} aN M | =cF » P ood =a lage =< ge | TU AR ~” <= 523 eo) Mt. Soe 8 pS ee —} 85487 ™ =< "+t 2 A. 2a 2 aan cc sq & FEZ YP JUST BASKETS THAT’S ALL. Our Line Comprises Over yoo Different Kinds, Styles and Sizes. BG@s> SEND FOR CATALOGUE. BAMBOO BASKETS. - - F. R. LALOR, - - DUNNVILLE, ONT., CANADA. ExporteR eF Canaba Harp Woop AsHEs. MAPLE BRAND, THE GREATEST GRAPE FERTILIZER. Bas" WRITE FOR PAMPHLETS AND PRICES. “TRIUMPH” HORSE GRAPE HOR, (PATENTED. ) A GREAT LABOR-SAVER, The plow is guided around the vines, under the wire or among the berry bushes, by the disk, to which is attached a handle. Works the soil close to the vines or bushes. FoR CIRCULARS, D. S. MORGAN & CO., Brockport, N. Y. Manufacturers of Latest Novelties in Implements. t 212 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. ® KEFEREREM SESS SS RPESSSSESES CENA | 4 mA GREAT DOLLAR’S WorTH. }} | : \ KG ISahrHE“ COUNT “RIGHT? i y 1. More than 800 beautifully printed pages of fresh, - Ny bright, readable, practical matter. A Y 2. About goo choice illustrations that illustrate. iN ‘ ; 3. The benefit of several large experiment gardens and ; Y orchards in widely spread localities. y , 4. ‘The work of scholarly. editors who are skillful D) WM) horticulturists. A\ ly, 5. A magazine for the fruit grower, garden and com- h) Wy mercial florist, for every lover of nature ; the man or woman AN Y, who ownsa geranium, a flower bed, or a costly lawn ; every / f one who ‘‘sits under his own vine or fig tree ;’’? the suburban } Y resident and country gentleman. ” Wi 6. Artistic plans by landscape architects for laying out | \ Y readers’ grounds, in every issue, such as cost hundreds of f y dollars in the usual way. . from readers. 8. All in all the most complete and profusely illustrated ait y gardening journal in the world. Yet it costs only $1 a ‘year. J 7. An inquiry department which answers all questions A y, THE RURAL PUBLISHING COMPANY, A ( A Cor. CHAMBERS & PEARL STS., NEw YORK. is 3 DESIST DSSS OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 213 JUST THE BOX BERRY GROWERS HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR. <== THE DIAMOND —=- Water-Proof Paper Berry Box, STRONG, NEAT, COMKPACT, CHEAP. oe 34 meee ewes et eowdaoee FRochester NY. A STRICTLY HIGH GRADE BERRY PACKAGE. Shipped flat so that 1,000 of them occupy but two cubic feet of space. Mr. Ev. C. POWELL, assistant editor American Garden, writes: ‘‘You have solved the problem of neat and cheap berry boxes.’’ That they give entire satisfaction wherever used is evidenced by the following extracts from letters of growers located in all parts of the country : ““They are the cheapest, neatest and for shipping the best berry boxes I have ever seen.’’ “T can heartily recommend your berry box.”’ ‘They are cheap and neat, easily put up and are just the box berry growers have been looking for.’’ ““We used them for raspberries and strawberries and liked them immensely.”’ “Those growing berries for sale should give the Diamond Paper Berry Box a chance.”’ ““Your boxes are perfect, don’t try to improve them.”’ “The boxes are the neatest, Cheapest and best-constructed, that I ever saw for the money.’’ “They gave eutire satisfaction. Shall continue to use them.”’ “JT shall use nothing but the Diamond Paper Berry Box.’’ “T am glad to inform you that they more than meet my expectations ”’ We furnish returnable, also gift crates at very low prices. Write for descriptive catalogue and prices, Our World’s Fair Exhibit will be in the New York State Building, Horticultural Department. 214 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. Roehester (ithographing Company, 176 North Water St., Rochester, N. Y. MANUFACTURERS OF ALL KINDS OF NURSERY MEN’S?+ SUPPLIES, FRUIT “ee” PLATES CATALOGUES, PRICE-LISTS, ORDER BLANKS, ETC. Furserymen’s [2rinting a Dpecialty, \ k | RITE FOR TERMS when getting up a Calalogue, Price-List or Circular. We have a large line of Cuts which can be used for this work without extra charge. COLORED FRONTISPIECES AND COLORED PLATES FOR CATALOGUES. NEw FruITts DRAWN FROM NATURE AND ACCURATELY PRINTED IN COLORS. (CHROMO LITHOGRAPHY. Weare prepared to do all styles of Color Printing, Especially Fruits, Flowers, Trees, Show Bills. Etc., as well as office printing for Nurserymen and Horticultural Societies. Send $2.50 for the ‘Rochester Directory ’’ containing ten thousand, classified names and addresses of Nurserymen, Florists and Seedsmen, in the United States and Canada. i ‘ ; ; ‘ ~ > : y . SEND FOR CATALOGUE. a = ADDRESS ALL : : : LITHOGRAPHING COMMUNICATIONS TO ROCH ES LER - + + COMPANY. TS OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 215 NEW ERA IN < AMERICAN GRAPES, IS INAUGURATED BY THE INTRODUCTION OF KV IMUNSON’S HYBRIDS 40 SEEDLINGS 1 1 In which New, Vigorous, Hardy, Healthy varieties, produced and selected from heretofore unused species, but far superior in many points to the old Labrusca and Vinifera varieties, resistant to Phylloxera and most other maladies, have been secured, embodying BEAUTY, ee eA LNT Veo Se PRODUCTIVENESS, PROFIT FOR MARKET, TABLE AND WINE. The ideal, universally successful Grape has been regarded as an impossibility in producing these, and it has been the constant object to produce the very best possible varieties specially adapted to the regions for which they are recommended. A careful, accurate II]lustrated Descriptive Circular, telling for what region each variety is adapted, and giving prices, will be mailed on application to tes Mg LS NSS ON, Sats! + DENISON: TEM Ag: 216 OUR NATIVE GRAPE. E desire to call the attention of Planters to our large and complete a A R DY stock of Grape Vines. y d offer for sale upwards of sixty varieties, embracing N AT ; V E We propagate an the popular old sorts as well as the new ones which seem to have merit. \ Our catalogue contains accurate descriptions, and classifies the different ) varieties according to color. G R A Pp E Ss fs Besides the above we offer an immense collection of all kinds of Fruit and Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, Roses, Hardy Plants, etc. Our General Catalogue (160 pages), embellished with numerous engravings of the most popular Trees, Shrubs, etc., and enclosed in an illuminated cover, will be mailed free to all who have not received it. Our Supplementary Catalogue (28 pages) of Rare and Choice Trees, Shrubs, etc , including several valuable novelties and many specialties of superior merit, will also be mailed free. ELLWANGER & BARRY, MOUNT HOPE NURSERIES, 53rp YEAR. ROCHESTER, N. Y. TUE GENEVA. 8 ee itn hony: oeumveroren > OUEAa ae H. HYATT, Penn Yan, N. Y.,says: ‘‘There is no mildew or rot on vine or fruit. It is an excellent keeper.”’ Rural New Yorker, Feb. 4th, 1893, says: ‘‘The R. WV. Y. desires that all of its readers who are interested in grape growing may try the Geneva Grape. It is one of the few varieties of partly Vinifera origin that thrive in the trying climate of the Rural Grounds. It ripens with us early, a week or more before the Concord, though earliness is not one of the excellencies claimed by those who offer the variety for sale. The vine has proved hardy thus far, and free of mildew.” JOSIAH HOOPES, of West Chester, Pa., a most trustworthy authority, says that the Geneva on his grounds perfected last season the largest crop of any variety in his collection. He describes it as follows: ‘‘ Color, translucent, clear amber, with a very thin skin and of the best quality. It is an act of simple justice to place it among the best of our native grapes.”’ R. G. CHASE & CO., Geneva, N. Y. INTRODUCERS. “A TREASURE AND A WONDER IN THE HORTICULTURAL WORLD.” SPLENDID! DELICIOUS! EXCELLENT! Are the exclamations from those who have fruited the Green Mountain, the earliest and best of all grapes. Ripens in August, yet of most delicate texture and exquisite flavor. Be not misled into buying this Grape under other names, Every Genuine Vine is sealed with our Trade Mark Seal as above. Send for circular giving full information. Agents wanted in every state and county. ADDRESS STEPHEN HOYT’S SONS, NEW CANAAN, CT, BANNOCKBURN NURSERIES, ROCHESTER, N. Y. AUGUST BLAUW, Proprietor. A FULL LINE OF NURSERY STOCK. PEACH TREES A SPECIALTY. Valuable New Varieties. STEPHENSON, HARRIS, ELBERTA, GLOBE. SEND FOR CATALOGUE CONTAINING DESCRIPTION. “ls OUR NATIVE GRAPE. 217 The earliest of all to ripen. EARLY OHIO GRAPE. Ten days earlier Flowering Shrubs. Trees. than Moores Early, three times as productive. 100 other varieties, Niagara, Worden, Diamond, etc. ( Address C. S. CURTICE CO., PORTLAND, N. Y. ROSES. x Small Fruits. Catalogue. Send for GRAFT YoUR GRATE VINES. - WITH - - THE WAGENER SAW. No man who has an orchard or Vineyard should be without one. They will graft Apple, Pear or Cherry BETTER THAN THE OLD WAY OF SPLITTING and much quicker. Any man with ordinary skill can use one, They will be sent to any address in the United States, with full instructions for using on receipt of $2.00. Address, J. H. BUTLER, Agent, Penn Yan, N. Y. REFERENCES : I used the Wagener Saw and find it indispensi- ble in the vineyard. No practical vineyardist should be without it—C. H. BRONSON. I have used the Wagener Saw for fourteen years, I consider the Wagener System of grafting de- cidedly the best way of changing a vineyard.—J. SPRAY PUMPS, Me “Poreka” or “Vermorel” = NOZZLES, FY) .KNAPSACK SPRAYERS, MADE BY The DEMING COMPANY, SALEM, OHIO, * Henion & Hubbell, West. Agts,. CHICAGO, ILLs. Write for illustrated Catalogue and Treatise. FOSTITE, PREVENTS AND CHECKS MILDEW and BLACK ROT on Grapes, Easier to apply than Bordeaux Mixture. Recommended by Directors of EXPERIMENT STATIONS. For Sale by Cc. H. JOOSTEN, F. CROSBY. 3S COENTIES SLIP, NEW YORK. NONE GENUINE WITHOUT OUR TRADE-MARK. TREE AND PLANT MEDICINE. Applied to the roots will destroy Grub, Peach Borer and Yellows. Kills Curculio, Mealy Bug or Cotton Louse, increases size and quality of Fruit, keeps Grapes from falling off, from Mildew and Rot, makes Barren Trees Fruitful, Roses and Shrubs bloom. Nursery Agents sell it rapidly. A trial package will convince you ofits merits. Send 25 cents in postage stamps, and we will include full particulars, terms and testimonials. The sooner application is made the better will be the results another season. It has no equal for house plants. Address, FIBRO FERRO FEEDER CO,, Lock Box 420. ROCHESTER, N.Y. 218 OUR NATIVE GRATE. THE VINEYARDIST Published Monthly at Penn Yan, N. Y., by J. H. BUTLER, its Editor ana Proprietor. At 50 cents a Year in Advance. interests of Grape Growing—that great branch of American Horticultural Industry, being its specialty, and all other Fruit Culture, treated of generally. The VINEYARDIST is Devoted to Grape Culture and Kindred Interests ; and, as Wine Making is inseparably connected with grape production, in extensive vineyard regions, that subject receives such attention as its importance demands. . . : . . . : : ‘ In the columns of the VINEYARDIST will be found copious Agricultural, Grape, Fruit, Wine and Health notes and numerous ably written articles on all these and other subjects, interesting and valuable to the Farming, Fruit-Growing, Wine- Making and Nursery vocations, and to the public at large. za is the only Journal in the United States, conducted principally in the This carefully edited monthly circulates in all sections of the Union, and is one of the very best and cheapest periodicals of its general class, and a most desirable Advertising medium, at very low cash rates. Address all communications, remittances, etc., to THE: MINEY ARES, 2 eww + + | PENNY AN, Tae arse" Y Heer: The Great Farm, Industrial and Stock Journal of the South. _ The Best Advertising Medium. Rates of adver- tising sent on application. ONE YEAR FOR $1. Sample copies will be mailed FREE on applica tion to THE CULTIVATOR PUBLISHING CO., Box 416, Atlanta, Ga. f& The leading Farm =) Paper Westof Missis sippi River. Ably ed. ited, nicely printed = = 12 pages, bound and information = eee ae — irimmed;preserved for kt eben hire, Ss Draw Ss § . ® reference by ee on price ? . ; readers. vertising Year, stamps or cash. +4 Mort of Poveccra, Learns 0 Gort Iceren KATP AMO BPHE tos 25 cts. per agate Address 46Emilie Bldg. or % (ansurnn'ta) ST.LOUIS, MO~ JULY 15, 1887, (ftanitmat Natline. Sample copy free. ST. LOUIS, MO. agaaeea PEE Se CI Sw HULBERT PUB. C9. Agriculture, Live 3 Stock, Poultry, Ye Home Topics, In- dustrial and General lead 7 GRAPE GROWERS By using the ROCHESTER . * VINE HOLDER you save ~ TIME by hooking the vine to the trellis, when you trim, LABOR by not having to tie the vines. MONEY iu buying them at about half the cost of other material. Tested 'and approved by practical men. Ask your dealer for them, or order direct from us. ROCHESTER RADIATOR CoO., 25 Furnace St., ROCHESTER, N. Y. SAFE, DURABLE FENCE; ONLY $80 PER MILE. R save one-half the cost avoid dangerous barbs A "7 $200.00 g ONtS month and pac ae ash NY, aa The best local and traveling agents wanted every- va j where. Write at once forcirculars and choice ter- ; | ! ritory; address A. G. Hulbert, Patentee, care of — i= D iy ‘ ences Hires. 904 OLIVE STREET. = rH Be | mati | —~ | = ‘anufacturers. st ouls, Oo. = LF Factory Catalogue with 200 engraved designs and a = /J:1\) prices, sent free to any who want fancy iron and a ee | I) wire work or city, cemetery and farm fences, ete ONLY ONE TRIUMPH SNAP’ F. SCHIRCK, THAT. IS-COVERT’S 191 W. Main St., ROCHESTER, N. Y. )| DIFFICULT BICYCLE REPAIRING, Metal Pattern Making, Dice Making, Lawn | Mowers Sharpened and Repaired. Experimental | work. General Light Jobbing. | All Orders Given Prompt Attention. GUM-ELASTIC ROOFING FELT costs only $2.OO per 100 square feet. Makes a good roof for years, and anyone can put it on. GUM-ELASTIC PAINT costs only 60 cents per gallon in barrel lots. or $4.50 for 5 gallon tubs. Color dark red. Will stop leaks in tin or iron roofs that will last for years. Try it. Send stamp for samples and full particulars. GUM-ELASTIC ROOFING CO., 39 & 41 WEST BROADWAY, NEw YORK. Local Agents Wanted. la\ Ni \ (i zi COMBINE CONQUERED using our (stove pipe) Rad\ator which saves 14 the fuel. Send for p fy Many prominent men. It has Mj tubes directly over the current fy 4 nearly 3,000 sq. inches of iron ge ®)F) tensely hot, making one stove do wa work of two. Scientists say you no burn 4 tons of coal or cords of wood to ‘i get the heat onowze. 75 per cent of the 4 heat is lost up the chimney. It does not injure the draft, clog, nor leak gas. Look at the price; to introduce, first order from each neighborhood filled at whole- sale rates, andsecures an agency. Who # gets this chance, why not you? Write atonce. ROCHESTER RADIATOR CO. ROCHESTER, N. Y. === Fe IGEN) etl ao book of 172 pages, iahes The «Cottage Souvenir,” containing a great variety of Designs and Plans of e es e Artistic Dwellings costing from $500 to $10,000. The Beauty and Completeness of these Designs, combining so many nw features, has given this book a wonderful sale, and hundreds of Beautiful Homes are being built in all parts of our land from its designs. Price $2.00. Send for prospectus and sample pages, FREE. GEO. F. BARBER & CO., Architects, KNOXVILLE, TENN. Aaah ts Sie ae | dete ee 'SEDY aes Abas ae & nes AO MPO HO Os a ate acne j ies or ct ASA , ~ by » oi" “3 ee : ee a ait ht ‘ «nt yas See int eRe = at % big e aF o —y . =) 205) 4 a x Lf o . + Ser Sh AE ’ ipeay eel ae : 7 a : Wis ’ ; , FP i 3 Odie) 14 Telete pyereestsbee er x if i : yt» ie as a One ee st ; zy + ee a Sa Reet or aa Agere tak ia » gah : ie 33 sue pith TE a Shit sae . ; : ; ar ts . x i pera Daren poems: cys are ay s Sey Serta Srsieeserae a ae 24 z 7 ~ sat Ss 3 c : ithaca! Rater cr i = BAe mr sete pacacatneetekec teas eee Eien pear Ht iif