PARKS and MEMORIALS OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS ¥ I '■^i§M 1 ■• rr';|ISSWif;# j ■<*mmmmmm< | '^illillii ,::'-S'>»:::ffi-';:w:;i'::g* Illlllift '■'■■~.f'$'':*ii"' :^*^ if 1 —- ?;%!.. ilf ;;>;■::; ;WJ| v!^.*, ::"1|| ;:;.;. . :|:;' 1 *** ' '^ *■■ fICI" W: 1 I ! .. i. ,4^.„ ii§i Iff ..'V ■,.,■■,.' ■-■■-mm. . .. M%Mm M^ ■■ ¥ k\ *$ "%Wms§ ■ | »!:M:; :.. ■'11 1 1 /) ■ iJO PARKS and MEMORIALS of the STATE OF ILLINOIS Under the Supervision of Cfhe Department of Public IDorks and buildings Ron. Louis L. Emmerson, Qouernor H. H. Cleaueland, Director Don Qarrison, Assistant Director John Q. ooule, Superintendent of Parks Compiled by C. M. SERUICE [Printed by authority of the State of Illinois] Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from State of Indiana through the Indiana State Library http://archive.org/details/parksmemorialsOOilli o(6U'■ •< 14 FORT MASSAC. FORT MASSAC is located in Massac County, on the Ohio River, near the present city of Metropolis. It is historically significant. It offered the opening wedge by which George Rogers Clark entered and conquered from the British, the expensive northwest territory composing the present state of Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Wisconsin and parts of Michigan and Minne- sota. This intrepid explorer navigated down the Ohio to Fort Massac, captured the garrison and then proceeded overland one hundred and twenty miles with a handful of hardy woodsmen soldiers from Vir- ginia to Kaskaskia and Vincennes, wresting from the English those posts and hoisted the American flag, marking the end of foreign dominance. Historical accounts have it that the site was first visited by De Soto, in the year of 1542 when it was used as a temporary fortress against the Indians. Aaron Burr also stopped at this point in 1805, while enroute to the south to establish an empire which was to have absorbed the American Republic, with Burr at its head. The fort itself was built by Captain Charles Phillips Aubrey, sent into the Illinois country in 1756 from New Orleans, to care for French interests against encroachments of the British. Leaving Fort Chartres on May 10, 1757, Aubrey reached Massac the same year and drove the first stake on Ascension Day: hence the stronghold first bore the name Fort Ascension. 'The fort was captured in 1765 by the English, who held it thirteen years until its fall before George Rogers Clark. In 1794, the old block house and palisades were rebuilt by order of President George Washington as a protection for American settlers who began pushing westward in great numbers. The origin of the name, Fort Massac, has not been determined. A legend recounts a massacre by Indians during French occupancy and the taking of the name Fort Massacre, which was later abbreviated to Fort Massac. The Indians, so the story reads appeared on what is now the Kentucky side of the river, garbed in bear skins and crawl- ing on their hands and knees. Soldiers of the garrison quickly crossed the river to make a killing. In their absence, a part}7 of Indians fell upon the unprotected settlement, murdering every inhabitant and setting fire to the buildings. Until its purchase by the State in 1903, through the instrumen- tality of the Daughters of the American Revolution, the site of Fort Massac bore few marks of its former importance. Only ruins of earthworks were there to show the shape of the blockhouses. The State has done everything possible to preserve the historic spot without marring its native beauty and without destroying the reminders of the past. The park has been landscape-gardened, with roads and walks carefully laid out, and a custodian 's cottage and recreation hall for the use of visitors have been built. To Clark and his brave men there has been erected a monument. From the top of Fort Massac recognized as a natural fortress, smoke from the city of Paducah can be seen. 15 :»&» * ar.j Fort Massac State Park. Fort Massac State Park. 16 17 LINCOLN MONUMENT. LINCOLN MONUMENT and Lincoln Memorial Hall are located in Oak Ridge Cemetery, Springfield, Illinois. This shrine is visited annually by thousands of persons of this and other countries. THE MONUMENT The body of Abraham Lincoln was deposited in the receiving \rault at Oak Ridge Cemetery May 4, 1865. Upon the 11th of May, 1865, the National Lincoln Monument Association! was formed, its object being to construct a monument to the memory of Abraham Lincoln in the City of Springfield, Illinois. The names of the gentlemen comprising the Lincoln Monument Association in 1865 (now deceased) were as follows: Gov. Richard Oglesby Sharon Tyndale Orlin H. Miner Thomas J. Dennis John T. Stuart Newton Bateman Jesse K. DuBois S. H. Treat James C. Conkling 0. M. Hatch John Williams S. H. Melvin Jacob Bunn James H. Beveridge David L. Phillips The temporary vault was built and the body of President Lincoln removed from the receiving vault of the cemetery on December 21, 1865. The body was placed in the crypt of the monument September 19, 1871, and was placed in the sarcophagus in the center of the cata- comb October 9, 1874. Owing to the instability of the earth under its foundation and its unequal settling the structure had begun to show signs of disintegra- tion, necessitating taking it down and rebuilding it from the founda- tion. The work was begun by Col. J. S. Culver in November, 1899, and finished June 1, 1901. A cemented vault was made beneath the floor of the catacomb directly underneath the sarcophagues and in this vault the body of President Lincoln was placed September 26, 1901, where it will probably remain undisturbed forever. The monument is built of brick and Quincy granite, the latter material only appearing in view. It consists of a square base 72% feet on each side and 15 feet, 10 inches high. At the north side of the base is a semi-circular projection, the interior of which has a radius of 12 feet. It is the vestibule of the catacomb, and gives access to view the crypts in which are placed the bodies of Mr. Lin- coln's wife and sons and his grandson, Abraham Lincoln, son of Hon. Robert T. Lincoln. On the south side of the base is another semi-circular projection of the same size, but this is continued into the base so as to produce a room of elliptical shape, which is called Memorial Hall. Thus the base measures, including these two pro- jections, 119V2 feet from north to south and 72% feet from east to west. In the angles formed by the addition of these two projections 18 Lincoln Monument. 19 are handsome flights of stone steps, two on each end. These steps are projected by granite balustrades, which extend completely around the top of the base, which forms a terrace. From the plane of this terrace rises the obelisk, or die, which is 28 feet 4 inches high from the ground, and tapered to 11 feet square at the top. At the angles of this die are four pedestals of 11 feet diameter, rising 12% feet above the plane of the terrace. This obelisk, including the area occu- pied by the pedestals, is 41 feet square, while from the obelisk rises the shaft, tapering to 8 feet square at the summit. Upon the four pedestals stand the four bronze groups, representing the four arms of the service — Infantry, Cavalry, Artillery and Navy. Passing around the whole obelisk and pedestal is a band or chain of shields, each representing a state, the name of which is carved upon it. At the south side of the obelisk is a square pedestal, 7 feet high, supporting the statue of Lincoln, the pedestal being ornamented with the coat of arms of the United States, This coat of arms, in the position it occupies on the monument, is intended to typify the Constitution of the United States. Mr. Lincoln's statue on the pedestal above it makes the whole! an illustration of his position at the outbreak of the rebellion. He took his stand on the Constitution as his authority for using the four arms of the war power of the Government — the In- fantry, Cavalry, Artillery and Navy — to hold together the states which are represented still lower on the monument by a cordon of 1 ablets linking them together in a perpetual bond of union. The money used in the original construction of this handsome monument came from the people by voluntary contributions. The first entry made by the treasurer of the association was May 8, 1865, and was from Isaac Reed, of New York, $100. Then came contri- butions from Sunday Schools, lodges, Army associations, individuals and states. The Seventy-third Regiment, United States colored troops, at New Orleans, contributed $1,437, a greater amount than was given by any other individual or organization except the State of Illinois. Many pages of the record are filled with the contributions from the Sunday Schools; of the land. Of the 5,145 entries, 1,697 are from Sunday schools. The largest part of the money was contributed in 1865, but continued to come to the treasurer from all parts of the country until 1871. About $8,000 was contributed by the colored soldiers of the United States Army. Only three states made appro- priations for this fund — Illinois, $50,000; Missouri, $1,000; and Nevada, $500. The monument was dedicated October 15, 1874, the occasion be- ing signalized by a tremendous outpouring of the people. The ora- tion commemorative of the life and public services of the great eman- cipator was delivered by Governor Richard J. Oglesby. President Grant also spoke briefly on that occasion, and a poem was read by James Judson Lord. The monument was built after the accepted designs of Larkin G. Mead, of Florence, Italy, and stands upon an eminence in Oak Ridge Cemetery, occupying about nine acres of ground. Ground was broken on the site September 10, 1869, in the presence of 3,000 persons. The capstone was placed in position on May 22, 1871. 20 Hi rt o *-> bog Cm 0} o ■s-S tic 21 In July, 1871, citizens of Chicago, through Hon. J. Young Scam- mon,. contributed $13,700 to pay: for the Infantry group of statuary. In the city of New York, under the leadership of Gov. E. D. Morgan, 137 gentlemen subscribed and paid $100 each, amounting to $13,700 for the Naval group. Of the four groups of statuary, the Naval group was the first completed. This group represents a scene on the deck of a gunboat. The mortar is poised ready for action; the gunner has rolled up a shell ready for firing ; the boy, or powder monkey, climbs to the highest point and is peering into the distance ; the officer in com- mand is about to examine the situation through the telescope. The Infantry group was the next to reach Springfield. Both these groups were placed in position on the monument in September, 1877. The Infantry group represents an officer, a private soldier and a drummer, with arms and accoutrements, marching in expecta- tion of battle. The officer in command raises the flag with one hand ; pointing to the enemy with the other, orders a charge. The private with the musket, as the representative of the whole line, is in the act of executing the charge. The drummer boy has become excited, lost his cap, thrown away his haversack and drawn a revolver to take part in the conflict. The Artillery group represents a piece of artillery in battle. The enemy has succeded in directing a shot so well as to dismount the gun. The officer in command mounts his disabled piece and with drawn saber fronts the enemy. The youthful soldier, with uplifted hands, is horrified at the havoc around him. The wounded and pros- trate soldier wears a look of intense agony. The Cavalry group, consisting of two human figures and a horse, represents a battle scene. The horse, from whose back the rider has just been thrown, is frantically rearing. The wounded and dying trumpeter, supported by a comrade, is bravely facing death. Each of these groups cost $13,700. The statue of Mr. Lincoln stands on a pedestal projecting from the south side of the obelisk. This is the central figure in the group or series of groups. As we gaze upon this herioc figure the mute lips seem again to speak in the memorable words that are now immortal. We hear again the ringing sentences spoken in 1859 of the slave power : Broken by it, I too, may be; bow to it, I never will. * * * If ever I feel the soul within me elevate and expand to those dimensions not wholly unworthy of its Almighty Architect, it is when I contemplate the cause of my country deserted by all the world beside, and I, standing up boldly and alone, hurling defiance at her victorious oppressors. Here, without con- templating consequences, before high Heaven and in the face of the world, I swear eternal fidelity to the just cause, as I deem it, of the land of my life, my liberty and my love. From the day of its dedication, October 15, 1874, until July 9, 1895, the Lincoln Monument remained in the control of the National Lincoln Monument Association. 22 In 1874, after its dedication, John Carroll Power was made cus- todian, and continued in that position until his death in January, 1894. A sketch of the Lincoln Monument could not, in fairness, be written without paying a tribute to his faithfulness, zeal and love. He revered the nation's hero and gave, his last resting place the tenderest and most assiduous care. Much that is of interest in the history of this iirst decade of the existence of the monument has been written by his untiring pen that would otherwise have been lost. After the attempt was made to steal the body of President Lin- coln, Mr. Power summoned to his aid, in 1880, eight gentlemen, resi- dents of Springfield, who organized as the " Lincoln Guard of Honor." They were J. Carroll Power, Jasper N. Reece, Gustavus S. Dana, James F. McNeill, Joseph P. Lindley, Edward S. Johnson, Horace Chapin, Noble B. Wiggins, and Clinton L. Conkling, all of whom are deceased with the exception of McNeill. Their object was to guard •:he precious dust of Abraham Lincoln from vandal hands and to con- duct, upon the anniversaries of his birth and death, suitable memorial exercises. During these years an admittance fee of twenty-five cents was required of all visitors to the monument, and this small fee constituted a fund by which the custodian was paid and the necessary expenses of the care of the grounds defrayed. In the winter of 1894, in response to a demand voiced almost universally by the press and the people of Illinois, the General Assem- bly made provision for the transfer of the National Lincoln Monument and grounds to the permanent care and custody of the State. The new law put the monument into the charge of a, board of control, consisting of the Governor of the State, the State Superintendent of Public Instruction and the State Treasurer. July 9, 1895, Hon. Richard J. Oglesby, the President, the only surviving member of the original Lincoln Monument Association, turned over to the State, as represented by its chief executive, Gover- nor Altgeld, the deeds and papers relating to the* monument and grounds. The governor received the trust on behalf of the State, pledging its faithfulness to the duty of guarding and caring for the last resting place of the illustrious dead. The commission appointed as custodian Edward S. Johnson, major of the veteran Seventh Illinois Infantry and a member of the Lincoln Guard of Honor. The ad- mittance fee is a thing of the past and "To the mecca of the people let all the people come, bringing garlands of flowers, carrying away lessons of life. There is no shrine more worthy of a devotee, no acad- emy of the porch or grove where is taught so simply and so grandly the principles of greatness. Strew flowers, but bear away the imprint of his life, the flower of manliness and the wreath of honor. ' ' Plans and specifications for repairing and rebuilding of the monument have been completed. Damage to the shaft through freezing has made it necessary to make extensive repairs exteriorly. The interior is to be rebuilt to give the Tomb a setting fitting to the memory of the Great Emancipator. The sarcophagus will be remodeled and the interior altered so that visitors may view the burial place of the martyred President from the reception room. 23 THE OLD MILL AT OLD SALEM. This is the only picture in existence showing the actual surroundings and the original mill at Old Salem. The original mill combined a grist and saw mill. The open building is the saw mill and shows the "up and down" saw. In the closed room cornmeal and flour was made. The buildings were set on pillars of rock in pens. The bridle path came down the face of the bluff just south of the Offut store which was located on the top of the hill just bacK of the trees, it is -said the boys, who usually were sent to mill horseback, with the grist, would meet there, tie their horses, heads upward along the side of the hill at an angle of 45 degrees and all go swimming while waiting for their cornmeal to be ground. The original mill burned and was replaced by another for making meal and flour alone and later this burned and was never replaced. 24 OLD SALEM PARK. YOU will never know your greatest countryman, Abraham Lincoln, until you have made a pilgrimage to Old Salem Park — near Petersburg — where he passed from raw untutored youth to strong intellectual manhood. Patriots from every corner of of the world visit this shrine and pay tribute to our beloved martyr. Schools and colleges set aside one day each year in their curricula in order that their students may visit Old Salem. If you have not visited this shrine, you have missed a place of beauty and of granduer. You have missed a joy and an inspiration. Here, at the age of 22, he came in 1831 and lived till 1837. Here he came a friendless, overgrown boy, uncouth, uneducated with a knowledge of only the barest rudiments of reading, writing, and arithmetic. Here he chopped wood, tended store and acted as sur- veyor. Here he was the eager reader of Shakespeare and Barns, Here he devoured Blackstone and in Old Salem today you can see the original Onstott's Cooper Shop where by the light of the cooper's shavings he read those books. During his residence here his character was formed; his educa- tion was completed, his name of "honest Abe" acquired; he caught the urge to serve humanity in a big broad, unselfish way. Here sweet chapters were written into his great life which grip the hearts of men throughout the world and here his great heart was broken by the loss of his first love, Ann Rutledge — the one great romance and tragedy of his life. Salem is the old biblical word meaning "peace," and here if you have any sentiment coursing in your blood, you will find peace. Per- fect peace hovers over this serene, stately eminence of green jutting out into a quiet sea of prairie and woodland. Old Salem never ceased to mean much to Lincoln. Hel expected to make it his rural home after his second presidency. Old Salem Park will be one of the most attractive spots in the State when the present plans of the Department of Public Works and Buildings are completed. Research work has brought to view the original foundations of every log cabin along these forgotten streets, the almost obliterated road leading out of the village to Springfield and the path from Offut's store where Lincoln clerked, down to the grist mill where he was wont to officiate. It is the aim of Governor Emmerson and Director H. H. Cleaveland that some day all these log cabins will be restored on their original foundations, making it the only known city in the world that has ever been restored in its entirety. When this work is tactfully done, the semblance of a vanished era will be perfect. The associations, the tavern, the homes, the old well which is now in use, the paths of a great life will be eloquently imported to you. Every blade of grass, every dell, every field in the eighty acres will speak to you of Lincoln. What a shrine. 25 Views in Old Salem State Park. The Rutledge Inn (at top) the Custodian's Residence and Museum; Restored Lincoln and Berry Store; View of Sangamon from New Salem Hill. 26 27 VANDALIA COURT HOUSE. THE first capitol building of the State of Illinois was build on its present site in the city of Vandalia, in 1822, and now stands in the midst of a park some 320 feet square, filled with a large growth of forest trees. It is a plain two-story building, constructed of brick, with heavy walls built to stand the waste of time and is now a sturdy, old-fashioned building, encrusted with the rust of antiquity. It, with the plot of ground on which it stands, was donated by the State of Illinois to the County of Fayette in 1839. The building is in a good state of preservation and is as originally constructed with the exception that the large brick columns that supported the north and south porches were taken down in 1899 and replaced by the present iron columns and structures. The interior of the building is as well preserved and cared for as the exterior. The lower half of the building is divided by a wide hall sixteen feet in width running north and south ; a similiar hall nine feet wide divides the building east and west. These halls divide the lower floor into four large rooms. There is a massive stairway from the lower floor to the second floor, which is the original stairway, constructed in the building. From the landing at the top of the stairway, turning west, you enter what was the House of Representatives, preserved intact. One historic and memorable fact connected with this legislative room is the large win- dow at the southwest corner of the room. It was out of this window that Abraham Lincoln jumped, while a member of the legislature, then in session, in order to defeat a quorum. By this act, he broke the quorum and prevented the continuation of the Capitol of Illinois at this place for another twenty years. It is also an historic fact that within this legislative hall in 1832^ that the City by the Lake (Chi- cago) was granted her first village charter. Here Governor Bond, Coles, Edwards, Menard, and Reynolds, presided over the destinies of Illinois. Here sat our first Supreme Court. Here was the place of assembly of the law making power of such men as Abraham Lincoln, Stephen A. Douglas, John Thomas, Elias Kane, Daniel P. Cook, David Blackwell, and others. Since 1839 the capitol building has been used by the county of Fayette for court house purposes. It has now become inadequate. The county is forced to build a new court house elsewhere or raze this old historic structure. The Fifty-first General Assembly, feeling the people of the State of Illinois would regret the destruction of the building, with its archieves and historic memories, appropriated $60,000 for its purchase. 28 DOUGLAS MONUMENT PARK. THIS site consists of two acres and is located in Chicago. It is bounded by Woodland Park, the Illinois Central Railroad, 35th Street and by the alley west of the Illinois Central Railroad. In the fall of 1861, a group of friends of the late Stephen A. Douglas met in Chicago and organized the Douglas Monument Associa- tion. The governing body of this organization was a board of trustees. The purposes of this association were those of erecting and maintain- ing a monument in the city of Chicago in memory of Stephen A. Douglas, A fund was to be collected for these purposes. Apparently the purposes of this Association failed of accomplish- ment, for in. an Act of February 16, 1865, the General Assembly au- thorized the Governor to purchase in the name of the State of Illinois, the plot of ground in which reposed the remains of Douglas. According to the Act, the property was to be held by the State of Illinois as a burial place for Stephen A. Douglas and for no other purpose. The sum of $25,000 was appropriated for its purchase. In the spring of 1865, pursuant to the Act of February 16, 1865, Mrs. Adele Douglas, the widow, conveyed the property to the Governor of the State of Illinois and to his successors in office for a consideration of $25,000. In an Act of May 21, 1877, the Legislature appointed the follow- ing commissioners, with authority to proceed with the erection of a monument: J. D. Caton, Robert T. Lincoln, B. F. Findley, Thomas Drummond, Lyman Trumbull, Melville W. Fuller, Potter Palmer, Ralph Plumb and Gustav Koerner. The final report of the commis- sioners was made on May' 28, 1881, the total expenditure being in the neighborhood of $75,000. Douglas Monument, by Leonard Volk, is similiar in type to that of the Grant Monument in Lincoln Park. It consists of a granite base, surmounted by a bronze figure of the distinguished senator, while at the four corners of the sarcophagus-like base are bronze allegorical figures representing Illinois, History, Justice and Eloquence. The shaft is 104 feet in height. The base of the monument contains a crypt with a marble sarcophagus which contains the remains of Illi- nois' gifted son. The sarcophagus bears this inscription : Stephen A. Douglas Born April 23, 1813. Died June 3, 1861 "Tell my children to obey the laws and uphold the Constitution." 29 A -custodian's cottage has now been erected on this site, a new iron fence has been installed and other improvements are under way. A register will be kept for visitors following out the plan inaugurated directly after the completion of the Monument. From June 13 to October 30, 1880, 4,635 visitors from thirty-five states and territories and from nearly every part of the world came to pay respect to this renowned statesman. Douglas Monument. 30 THE LINCOLN HOMESTEAD. I^HE LINCOLN HOMESTEAD, the only residence ever owned by Abraham Lincoln, and the one occupied by him at the time of his nomination and, election to the presidency, situated at the northeast corner Eighth and Jackson streets, Springfield, is a plain old-fashioned two-story wooden house of twelve rooms, fronting west on Eighth street, built in 1839, by Rev, Charles Dresser, and pur- chased from him by Mr. Lincoln, May 2, 1844, for a consideration of $1,500. The frame work and all the floors of the old house are of oak ; the laths of hickory, split out by hand ; the doors, door frames, window frames and weather-boarding of black walnut. The nails sparingly used in its construction are all hand made. The most notice- able features of its construction from the builder's point of view is the prodigal use of solid walnut and strict economy in the use of iron — wooden pegs being used wherever practicable in lieu of the custom- ary nail. At the time of its construction it was one of the more pre- tentious residences of Springfield, located on the outskirts of the town, but now close to the business center of the city, v/hich has grown up around it. At the time of its purchase by Mr. Lincoln it was painted white with green shutters, after the fashion of the times, and but a .story and a half in height. During one of Mr. Lincoln 's campaigning tours in the "Forties", Mrs. Lincoln, while having a new roof put on the residence, took occasion to have it converted into a full two-story house as it appears today. No changes have been made in the house since Mr. Lincoln left it, except the repairs rendered necessary by decay of the original material. The lot on which the house stands is elevated three or four feet above the grade of the street and a brick retaining wall the entire length of the west end and about one-fourth the distance along the south side, built up vertically from the inner edge of the sidewalk, holds the earth in place on that part of the lot occupied by the house. Surmounting this wall there is a low fence of wooden pickets. The high board fence connecting with the brick wall and continuing along the south side to the rear of the lot cutting off the view of the back yard from the street, has been removed in recent years and the sodded iawn back of the house slopes gradually to the sidewalk without any intervening fence or wall. Midway of the west end of the lot a flight of five stone steps, let into the brick wall, leads up from the sidewalk to the level of the lot and three more such steps to the old walnut door which now opens to 20,000 or more visitors every year. After Mr. Lincoln left the house in 1861 it was occupied by various tenants, some of whom were none too scrupulous in caring for the premises. In 1883, O. H. Oldroyd, now of Washington, D. C, rented the house and installed in it his private collection of Lincoln mementos and made of the house a museum for the display of his large and interesting collection to the general public. After the con- veyance of the property to the State by Robert Todd Lincoln in 1887, an appropriation was made by the General Assembly for its repair and maintenance ; Mr. Oldroyd was appointed custodian and free ac- 31 cess given to the general public. Upon the appointment in 1893 of an- other custodian Mr. Oldroyd removed his collection of curios to "Washington since which time there has been no effort to make it a repository of mementos of the great President. The old furniture of the house, sold in 1861, and afterwards taken to Chicago by the family that purchased it, was destroyed by the great fire of 1871. In this old house with so little in its appearance to distinguish it from thousands of others built about the same time, Mr. Lincoln took up his residence in the second year after his marriage and here re- mained until his departure for Washington in 1861. Here the three youngest children of his family were born and here the eldest of the three died. Here he grew up from the small figure of a country law- yer to the full stature of a party idol and the grand proportions of a national leader. Here were nurtured his early-born ambitions and here his greatest political aspiration was realized. Here he closed his career as a citizen of Illinois and took up the work to which he gave his life, that ■ ' the government of the people, by the people and for the people might not perish from the earth." In 1923 fifty feet of ground, to the north of the Homestead were puchased and the dwelling thereon removed. The action by the state, the running of all electric wires in conduit, and the heating of the home by city heat, practically eliminates all fire hazards. Lincoln Homestead. 32 STARVED ROCK. From the book "Starved Rock" by Edgar Lee Masters As a soul from whom companionship subside The meaningless and onsweeping tide Of the river hastening, as it would disown Old ways and places, left this stone Of sand above the valley, to look down Miles of the valley, hamlet, village, town. It is head-gear of a chief whose head, Down from the implacable brow, Waiting is held below The waters, feather decked With blossoms blue and red, With f erns! and vines ; Hiding beneath the waters, head erect, His savage eyes and treacherous designs. It is amusing memory and memorial Of geologic ages Before the floods began to fall ; The cenotaph of sorrows, pilgrimages Of Marquette and LaSalle. The eagles and the Indians left it here In solitude, blown clean Of kindred things; as an oak whose leaves are sere Fly over the valley when the winds are keen, And nestle where the earth receives Another generation of exhausted leaves. Fatigued with age its sleepless eyes look over Fenced fields of corn and wheat, Barley and clover. The lowered pulses of the river beat Invisibly by shores that stray In progress and retreat Past Utica and Ottawa, And past the meadow where the Illini Shouted and danced under the autumn moon, When toddlers and papooses gave a cry, And dogs were barking for the boon Of the hunter home again to clamorous tents Smoking beneath the evening's copper sky. Later the remnant of the Illini Climbed up this Rock, to die Of hunger, thirst, or down its sheer ascents Rushed on the spears of Pottawatomies, And found the peace Where thirst and hunger are unknown. 33 This is the tragic and fateful stone Le Rocher or Starved Rock, A symbol and a paradigm, A sphinx of elegy and battle hymn, Whose lips unlock Life's secret, which is vanishment, defeat, In epic dirges for the races That pass and leave no traces Before new generations driven in the blast Of Time and Nature blowing round its head. Renewing in the Present what the Past Knew wholly or in part, so to repeat Warfare, extermination, old things dead But brought to life again In Life's immortal pain. What Destinies confer, And laughing mock LaSalle, his dreamings stir To wonder here, depart The fortress of Creve Coeur, Of broken heart, For this fort of Starved Rock ? After the heart is broken then the cliff Where vultures flock ; And where below its steeps the savage skiff Cuts with a pitiless knife the rope let down For water. From the earth this Indian town Vanished and on this Rock the Illini Thirsting, their buckets taken with the knife, Lay down to die. This is the land where every generation Lets down its buckets for the water of life. We are the children and the epigone Of the Illini, the vanished nation. And this starved scarp of stone Is now the emblem of our tribulation, The inverted cup of our insatiable thirst, The Illini by fate accursed, This land lost to the Pottawatomies, They lost the land to us, Who baffled and idolatrous, And thirsting^ spurred by hope Kneel upon aching knees, And with our eager hands draw up the bucketless rope. 34 This is the tragic, the symbolic face, Le Rocher or Starved Rock, Round which the eternal turtles drink and swim And serpents green and strange, As race comes after race, War after war, This is the sphinx whose Memnon lips breathe dirges To empire's wayward star, And over the race's restless urges, Whose lips unlock Life's secret which is vanishment and change. STARVED ROCK PARK. STARVED ROCK PARK, the scene of the last stand of the Illi- nois Indians, the site of Fort St. Louis, established by LaSalle, the site of the First Mission in Illinois, established by Father Marquette, the mecca of Romance and Indian Legendry, the most beautiful spot between the Allegheny and the Rocky Mountains, as a tract of some nine hundred acres of rough, wooded bluffland, mostly covered with timber and lying along the south bank of the Illinois River, midway between Ottawa and LaSalle. It has three road en- trances ; the western at the highway bridge crossing the Illinois river, one mile south of the village of Utica; the eastern at the Salt Well, six miles west of Ottawa, and the southern, one mile directly south of the rock. The entrance for river and interurban traffic is on the river bank at the base of Starved Rock. November 29, 1911, the State of Illinois, purchased from Ferdi- nand Walther, 280 acres of land at a price of $146,000.00. Since then by purchase the area of the park has been increased to approximately nine hundred acres. The value of the property with improvements is $350,000.00. In the height of his glory, LaSalle, standing among the wooden ramparts of Fort St. Louis, looked down upon a concourse of wild human life, lodges of bark and cabins of logs, clustered in the open places or along the edge of the hording forest ; a mile and a half to the west the lodges of the Illinois sheltering 6,000 souls and scattered along the valley the cantonments of numerous other tribes, making a total of 20,000 people gathered in the neighborhood. Today from the same spot, preserved as a public park and pleasure ground for the people of the State of Illinois, the visitor, facing the east, gazes down upon a glorious panoramic view of the wonderfully fertile and beautiful valley of the Illinois, dotted here and there with fields of growing grain and showing evidences of thrifty husbandry. To the west instead of the laboring squaw, the warriors lounging in the sun and the whoop and shouts of the native Indian children gamboling on the grass, may now be seen a modern hotel, its broad verandas filled with guests and tourists; a bathing pool and dancing pavilion from which may be heard the clamor and laughter of the modern pleasure 35 seekers ; and a children 's playground equipped with modern play ap- paratus. The entire park is equipped with an electric light, sewage, and artesian water system, and a fire fighting apparatus. Low portions are drained so as to safeguard health. Auto Tourists' Camp Grounds — The Auto Tourists' Camp Grounds at Starved Rock Park is tendered the public as an experi- ment in human welfare. Camping is not permitted in any part of the park except at the camp grounds, a large area on the bluff back of the hotel; these grounds being set apart especially for that purpose. No fee of any kind is to be paid to anyone for its privileges. The State has completed what is conceded to be the model tourists ' camp in the country. A shelter house has been erected with all the comforts of home. There are shower baths with both hot and cold water; the hot water being a departure from the conditions at most camping grounds. The shelter house also has rest rooms, tubs for light laundry and sanitary toilets, Lunch tables and benches have been scattered about the grounds. There are plenty of camp stoves. Artesian wells 700 feet deep afford an unlimited supply of cold drink- ing water. A complete sewage system has been installed at the camp. Fires constitute one of the greatest perils to the park and are not allowed to be kindled anywhere in the park except in the camp grounds and then only in camp stoves provided for that purpose. Bonfires are not permitted anywhere in the park. HISTORY. DURING the summer of 1673 Father Marquette and Louis Joliet, accompanied by five men, set out in two birch bark canoes from St. Ignace, under commission from Frontenac, French governor of Canada to discover and explore the Mississippi. Four years earlier Father Marquette had met some Illinois Indians at his mission at the west end of Lake Superior. They had gone there to trade and invited the priest to come to their village. The message from Frontenac, therefore, was received with pleasure by Marquette, for it promised him the opportunity to carry out his wish to go among these Indians. Advancing by the way of the Fox and the Wisconsin Rivers, they reached the Mississippi on June 17, the first Frenchmen to be- hold that river. Having- gone as far as the mouth of the Arkansas, they turned and following the advice of some Indians that the route would bring them most quickly to the Lac de Illinois (Lake Michigan), began the ascent of the Illinois River. In the plain directly across and below the Rock of St. Louis, now Starved Rock, they came to Kaskaskia, then an Illinois Indian town of ^eventy-four cabins. Two years later Marquette returned to these Indians and established a mission, the first within the area of our State. He remained only a short time, and on account of continued illness, was forced to leave, his death occuring while on his way to St. Ignace. 36 f w f' : ■::"':Iiilliili ■ f*;; " .. : [: \ ■■■'■' > ..'' ■ . ..: 37 In 1862, LaSalle, accompanied by Tonti and over one hundred French and Indians, returned from their triumphal journey, in which they had descended the Illinois to the mouth of the Mississippi, and had taken possession of the valley in the name of the king of France. During the autumn of that year they came from Mackinac to this spot on the Illinois, where work was begun on a palisaded fort, at the top -)f the cliff, called Fort St. Louis, Two years before LaSalle had visited the Illinois town, then deserted, and had ordered Tonti to ex- amine the rock and make it his stronghold in case of necessity. This constituted an ideal site for defense, for it was approachable from only one side and might easily be made an impregnable fortress for a few men against hundreds. According to the plan of LaSalle this was the beginning of what promised to be the first permanent colony in Illinois, He hoped to make it the great center for the western fur trade. It was his design also to take control of the mouth of the Mississippi by building another fort, and thus secure an outlet for the trade of the Illinois colony as well as that of the entire valley. His imagination built up an empire in the valley which would lead to the dominance of French Power in the New World, and he began to make grants of land to his followers according to the feudal law at the time. During the winter, negotiations were carried on with the Indians gathered in the valley and nearby canyons. There were in the vicinity, besides the six thousand Illinois, Shawnee, Miami and numerous other tribes numbering an additional ten thousand or more. The scene pre- sented to LaSalle from this watch tower found a worthy word painter in Parkman, who wrote: "The! broad, flat valley of the Illinois was spread beneath him like a map, bounded in the distance by its low wall of woody hills, The river wound at his feet in devious channels among islands bordered with lofty trees ; then far on tha left, flowed calmly westward through the vast meadows, till its glittering blue ribbon was lost in hazy distance. LaSalle looked down from his rock on a con- course of wild human life. Lodges of bark and rushes, or cabins of logs, were clustered on the open plain or along the edges of the border- ing forests. Squaws labored, warriors lounged in the sun, children whooped and gamboled on the grass. Beyond the river, a mile and a half on the left, the banks were studded once more with the lodges of the Illinois." LaSalle was able to make his own terms, for these Indians had already struggled unsuccessfully against the Iroquois, terrible enemy of the western tribes. They looked upon the French as allies who would be able to foil an attack by the warriorsi of that powerful con- federacy, which, at the time, seemed imminent. The Iroquois failed to appear and the summer passed peacefully away. But to LaSalle they were months of gloom, for his staunch friend and supporter, Count Frontenac, had been recalled. In his stead reigned LaBarre, as governor of the French possessions in America. His jealous dis- position soon led him to accuse LaSalle of attempting to build up a kingdom in the heart of the New World. His enmity extended so far +hathe learned with satisfaction of the advance of the Iroquois, and signified to their representative his desire to have LaSalle put to death. By his order supplies were cut off from the little company of French- 38 - . - . ^^b^W B x rA 'liliH *'" "m f Vi '': '$ ii It/^-iC /; ■ .'' '■ •.' ,, ' ".' : : WMWm '•"-.:■-.■ *-■ '■: 1 |v,"v 'r: ' .. Yip' SlSlll. fitS :>-■■';' '--i'. '," : £mBBM K $>"< Wt ■ K'/ >M m SMK • ■ • : ::Ss»ilililip|il:- ; ' >. - , ./ : ;.: #HH sHBHk^ 39 men at Fort St. Louis; LaSalle's property in upper Canada was seized; and his influence with the king was assailed. Determined to regain his position, LaSalle set out for Quebec, meeting on the way thither a representative of the governor, who was sent to take posses- sion of the new! fort. LaSalle soon sailed for France, where he gained permission to appear in the presence of the great monarch, Louis XIV, and made his plea. His plan to build a fort on the Gulf of Mexico, which would be a menace to the Spanish possessions, and another fort sixty leagues above the mouth of the River Colbert, or Mississippi, which would constitute a stronghold against the advance of the English, met with instant favor. An officer was dispatched to LaBarre with the royal command that he should restore all of LaSalle 's possessions. LaSalle, himself, was appointed leader of the expedition to be sent to the Gulf of Mexico, and finally succeeded, after overcoming many difficulties, in setting out with four hundred men on board four vessels. Failure seemed to shadow the expedition from the start, for scarcely had they sailed from Rochelle (July 24, 1684) when trouble arose be- tween LaSalle and Captain Beaujeu, who had charge of the chief vessel. One ship was captured by Spaniards, and January, 1685, another went aground on the coast of Texas and was lost, LaSalle and hisi followers went ashore and built a fort (Fort St. Louis). Beaujeu soon deserted in one of the remaining vessels, and the other was wrecked. Thus the little colony, with all means of re- turn to France cut off, and surrounded by hostile Indians, was in a desperate condition. All attempts to find the mouth of the Mississippi failing, LaSalle, with seventeen half starved men, set out on horse- back with the hope of reaching Canada, and thus securing succor for the garrison of twenty left 'in the fort. Reaching the bank of the Trinity River, LaSalle was killed by one of his followers. In the meantime an attempt was made by the Iroquois on March, 1683, to capture Fort St. Louis from the Illinois, but after an un- successful siege of six days they withdrew. In 1684 Tonti was placed in full command of the fort. During the month of September, three years later, a party of seven Frenchmen, LaSalle's companions from the gulf colony, saw with great relief after their toilsome journey, the cliff, surmounted by the fort, rising before them. The garrison, received them with a salute of musketry. Ascending the circuitous path at the rear of the rock they found on reaching the top that it was encircled for defense by a palisade and by a number of dwellings, a storehouse and a chapel. A number of Indian lodges were within this area. In the spring, they set out for Canada without giving any information to Tonti and his associates of the death of LaSalle. An account of the journey was given by Joutel, one of the company, who has also given a faithful description of the fort and surroundings when they visited it. "Fort Louis," he writes, "is in the country of the Illinois, and seated on a steep rock, about two hundred feet high, the river running at the bottom of it. It is only fortified with stakes and palisades and some houses advancing to the edge of the rock. It has a very spacious 40 41 Ice Pillar in St. Louis Canyon, Starved Rock Park. 42 esplanade, or place of arms. The place is naturally strong, and might be made so by art, with little expense. Several of the natives live in it, in their huts. I cannot give an account of the latitude it stands in, for want of proper instruments to take an observation, but nothing can be pleasanter; and it may be truly affirmed that the country of the Illinois enjoys all that can make it accomplished, not only as to ornament but also for its plentiful production of all things requisite for the support of human life. "The plain, which is watered by the river, is beautiful by two small hills, about half a league distant from the fort and those hills are covered with groves of oaks, walnut trees and other sorts I have named elsewhere. The fields are full of grass growing up very high. On the sides of the hills is found a gravelly sort of stone, very fit to make lime for building. There are also many claypits, fit for making of earthenware, bricks and tiles and along the! river there are coal- pits, the coal whereof has been tried and found very good. He described the temperate climate, which was suitable he thought, for the growing of Indian corn ; and the production of wild grapes and wild apple and pear trees in great quantities. He found the Illinois Indians naturally fierce, revengeful and untrustworthy. The men were occupied in going to war and in hunting, while all labor was performed, by the squaws. During September, 1688, Tonti learned from some Arkansas In- dians of the death of his friend and leader, and determined to go to the rescue of the forsaken colony on the coast of Texas. It was his aim also to advance with a war party to the Rio Grande and secure that territory, since war had again been declared between France and Spain. With four other Frenchmen and three Indians they left the fort in October in a pirogue. Before reaching the Red River, early in April, he had been deserted by all save two of his companions. They still pushed on for a time, but were compelled to retrace their steps. It was a toilsome journey during the hot July and August days. Be- cause of the inundated plains, due to the heavy rains, they were forced to abandon the horses, which they had gotten from the Indians. "We crossed," said Tonti, "fifty leagues of flooded country. The water where it was least deep, reached half-way up the legs; and in all this tract we found only one little island of dry land. We were obliged to sleep on the trunks of two great trees placed together, and to make our fire on the trees, to eat our dogs, and to carry our baggage across large tracts covered with reeds. In short, I never suffered so much in my life as in this journey to the Mississippi, which we reached on the 11th of July." In September they arrived at Fort St. .Louis. For twelve years Tonti remained at this post carrying on a trade in furs. All outposts on the great lakes and all other advanced posts were ordered abandoned by the King in 1698. Even with this seeming advantage, because of governmental restrictions, the trade at Fort St. Louis decreased. Owing to Indian raids, the route by the Fox and Wisconsin rivers gained precedence over that of the Illinois. A royal order of the year 1702 declared that Fort St. Louis was to be abandoned and that Tonti was to join D 'Iberville on the Lower 43 French Canyon — Starved Rock Park. 44 Mississippi. Three years earlier the Illinois still fearful of the Iro- quois, had deserted their village and located at the new Kaskaskia on the Mississippi. Fort St. Louis was reoccupied by French traders for a brief time, but a traveler visiting the spot in 1721 found only ruins. But Starved Rock was the scene of numerous conflicts between the tribes during the succeeding half century. In 1722, we are told the Peoria, pursued by the Foxes, took refuge on this stronghold. In the siege which followed, the Foxes lost so many of their warriors that they withdrew. None of these encounters is so full of dramatic interest as the one in which tradition has originated the name Starved Rock. Even if the evidence must be regarded as doubtful, the story may well be retold, for through it the name will survive. In 1769 the story goes, Pontiac, chief of the Ottawa, while on a visit to Cahokia, was killed by a Kaskaskia Indian. The Ottawa, aided by the Pottawatomi in their efforts to avenge this loss, began a war of extermination against the Illinois, The remnant of this tribe finally sought refuge on the site of Fort St. Louis. Driven to despera- tion by hunger, they finally strove to cut their way through the ranks of their besiegers. In their enfeebled condition they were easy prey for the enemy, and all save eleven perished. No tribe ever again bore the name Illinois. GEOLOGIC HISTORY. WITH the essential facts relative to the geographic features and geologic formation of this region in mind it is not difficult to sketch the geologic history of this very attractive region. The Lower Magnesium Limestone was deposited in shallow marine waters. It points to a time when the sea, probably from the Gulf region, advanced into the interior of the continent and rested here for a sufficient long period of time to account for the accumulation of shell material, and possibly the precipitation of some lime from those sea- waters to give rise to the 250 feet in thickness of this formation. The fossil forms of the marine animals that lived at that time may be found in this limestone. Following the accumalation of lime there must have been a retreat of the sea, and therefore an exposure of the formation in the sea bottom to erosion, for the St. Peters sandstone rests on an eroded surface of the Lower Magnesium limestone within this region. The presence of the sandstone suggests the re-advance of the sea, and a long period of deposition of sands, which must have been brought in to this sea by rivers from neighboring lands. Following the deposition of this St. Peters sandstone, there was another shifting of the shore line of this ancient interior sea, for the Trenton limestone rests on an uneven and eroded surface of St, Peters. These uncomformable rela- tionships below and above the St. Peters sandstone indicate partial withdrawal of the sea from the interior of the continent. Such move- ments of the sea waters were presumably due to movements in the crustal portion of the earth much more widespread than the area un- der consideration. 45 46 After the (Trenton Limestone, and possible other formations, had accumulated, there was an uplift and deformation of this region. The rock strata, which had been deposited one upon the other with slight interruptions, rested in a nearly horizontal position, but the conditions just west of Utica and in the valley of Vermilion River indicate that before the Coal Measures had been deposited this portion of the State had been arched so that the strata dipped westward at an angle of 25 degrees and declined from the crest of the fold eastward at an angle so low that it is not noticeable to the eye, but may, be appreciated by a comparison of elevations above sea level of a given formation over wide areas. Thus, the St. Peter's Sandstone may be said to turn from a nearly horizontal position to the east of Vermilion Creek downward and pass quickly below the surface. At Starved Rock, the base of the St. Peter's Sandstone is about 450 feet above the sea level. At the eastern margin of the State of Illinois, the base of that same formation has an approximate position of about 300 feet below sea level. Ac- companying the uplift and deformation of the formations, there was a disintegration of the rocks, and a wearing away of the material by streams. A period, undoubtedly many thousands of years in length, elapsed during which the region was exposed as a land area, and was therefore subject to the agents causing rock decay and to the work of streams. Following this period of weathering and erosion, there was a readvance of shallow waters, deposition of sands and clays, numerous partial retreats of the water, and the accumulation of vast quantities of vegetable matter in marginal swamps or lagoons, new advances of the sea by which the vegetable matter which had but just accumulated was buried under silts and sands. The repetition of such processes many times, through many thousands of years, results in the accumu- lation of the formation which is known as the Coal Measures. As far as the geologic History has yet been determined, the sea retreated from this portion of the; State of Illinois at the close of the Coal Measures time and has never returned. Since then, there has, therefore, been a renewal of rock decay and stream erosion. This long period of erosion was interrupted by the advance of a great ice-sheet from the northeast. It is probable that the ice invaded this region more than once, but the material now found within the area of the proposed park appears to be that deposited by a single ice advance. Since the ice melted away, the valley of the present Illinois carried away vast floods from the glacier, and in later epochs within the glacial period, when the ice stood near the present outskirts of the city of Chicago, the great valley at the base of Starved Rock received the waters from the melting ice to the northeast, and as that ice re- treated, received the waters from Lake Chicago, the ancestor of Lake Michigan. Later the ancient river drained off the waters which cov- ered the area now occupied by Lake Erie, Lake Huron and Lake Superior. Thus, the valley bordering the proposed park has formerly contained waters similiar in amount to those that flow over Niagara Falls today. The present river is but a shrunken remnant of the broad river which formerly drained, by this route, to the Mississippi Valley. 47 ^U^ ^ "I tilj^ :' llt'r. IP' « fi .;' !#*,? ^■.^^fcfs ' " ', ■ v::lllp8|S • " |i§-: 48 GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS. The Lower Magnesium Limestone — This formation is exposed in the valley bottom and at the north bluff of the Illinois River, just be- low Utica. It does not outcrop within the area of the proposed park, but underlies the park area. Where it is exposed in the vicinity of Utica, it is being used in the manufacture of natural cement. St. Peter's Sandstone — This formation is the one best exposed within the area of the proposed park. It forms the bluffs of the Illi- nois valley for several miles upstream from a point between Utica and LaSalle. It is the formation which constitutes the bluffs, within the park. Starved Rock, the Devil's Nose, Lover's Leap rock, are all com- posed of this St. Peter's sandstone, and the walls of the canyons are excellent exposures of this rock. The Trenton Limestone — This formation is not exposed within the area of the proposed park, but may be seen about two miles west of the western end of the park along the banks of the Vermilion River. The Coal Measures — A series of shales, sandstones, limestones, and coal seams constitute what is known as the Pennsylvania form- ation, or, as it is sometimes called, the Coal Measures. Within the area of the proposed park, there is a variable thickness of coal measure shales, which carry with them some coal overlying the St. Peter's sandstone formation. 'These rocks are exposed on the uplands at various points. The Glacial Drift — Overlying much of the upland surface there is a mantle of heterogeneous material composed, in large part, of clay, but carrying within that clay many stones and boulders. This forma- tion differs from all those which have been thus far described in that it is not stratified. The material is not assorted, the large and small stones are irregularly distributed throughtout the clay. Some of the material has evidently come great distances. The Valley Alluvium — The most recent or youngest geologic for- mation within this region is composed of the sands, gravels, and silts which the Illinois River has distributed over its bottom lands. This formation is so recent that it may be considered modern. It is, in fact, still in the process of accumulating, for with each overflow of the river some slight addition is made to the amount of alluvium on the bottom lands. BIRD LIFE. By Frank M. Woodruff, Curator, Lincoln Park, Chicago IN the Park, the birds have received much needed protection, and have increased to such an extent that the Ornithologist can find more varities of birds nesting on and about Starved Rock than any area of the same extent in northern Illinois. This statement can be verified by the classes of students which have visited the Rock dur- ing the past year or two. Four members of a class which I brought 49 mil fjllpsl llilillt 50 Wild Cat Canyon, Starved Rock Park. 51 to Starved Rock two years ago from Saturday noon to Sunday night recorded fifty-eight (58) varieties of resident birds. The more common birds, such as the house wren, cat bird, robin, and wood thrush fairly swarm on the grounds in the early mornings, while the peculiarly rugged inaccessible walls of the canyons afford safe nesting places for the solitude-loving species. At the Deer Park canyon we find the rough-wing swallow nesting in the crevasses of the rock on one side of the high cliff and on the other side, where the rock is replaced by a deposit of soil, may be found a colony of bank swallows. Fastened to the rock known as Lovers' Leap, just above the first prominent ledge overhanging the river, may be found the curious bottle-shaped nests of the cliff swallow. These nests are made of hun- dreds of small pellets of clay which are thoroughly masticated by the bird, the sticky saliva forming a wonderfully hard cement house. After the young swallows have left the nest the English sparrow takes possession, but the young sparrows are so much larger and heavier that the nest crumbles from the rock and the birds are drowned in the river. Starved Rock is about the northern nesting range of the turkey vulture, and these majestic birds can be seen every day circling about the rock, particularly over Horseshoe and Cutris canyons. A very few miles from Starved Rock are the great swamps at Henry, Illinois, and the Kankakee River, the breeding places of many ducks, heron and the bald! eagle. One is apt to see a stray bird of any of these species along the river. In the spring and fall many migratory birds, such as warblers, hawk, etc., pass to and from the nesting places in the far north. By studying the birds throughout the year we could swell our list .to 300 or more species. POINTS OF INTEREST TO those who must dwell and pass their lives in the artificial en- vironments of the city, the natural beauty of the Park appeals strongly. It is a veritable treasure house to the nature lover. No pen can picture the primitive landscape. To get the full benefit and joy of the beauty of this most interesting spot, the mysticism and secrecy of dells and canyons one must wander along the trails through cliffs and woodlands, over vegetation covered floors, through ravines and dells of ferns, under overhanging pines and cedars, into cool canyons that have been in their making since prehistoric times, over precipices revealing the beauties of the Illinois valley, through rasp- berry and blackberry patches, into open woodlands, sweetened by phlox and violets, in fact, through everything that is interesting, edu- cational and beautiful. Following the numerous trails with which the Park abounds, the visitor is led from the fern covered maze of the jungle to the cactus and prickly pear of the desert ; from the open and level path of the prairie to the narrow cliff encircling trail of the mountain; from the undulating footway of the meadow to the rock- encircled and perpendicular walled canyon. 52 Pulpit Rock— Starved Rock Park. 53 54 The streams in the Starved Rock region have developed steep rock walls. In some of the smaller valleys the height of the cliffs exceed the width of the valleys. These deep and gloomy chasms are called "canyons." Viewed from within, a typical canyon shows walls of crumbling sandstone, rising vertically and in some cases over-hanging ; within their shadows, underground waters drip from mossy crevices. At their base loose sand has accumulated in quantity, forming in many places a pedestal to the cliffs, densely covered with shade loving vegeta- tion. The gray, fern-grown cliffs usually inclose a narrow strip of irregular floor with miniature pools during the rainy season. At times small waterfalls exist at the heads of the canyons but a greater part of the year the canyons are dry except for a few pools. From above, overhanging trees and shrubs look down into the deep shade. The principal canyons are named, St. Louis Kickapoo, Sac, and Fox, west of the Rock and French, Pontiac, Wild Cat, Witch's Kit- chen, Lone Tree, Horseshoe and its branches, Tonti and LaSalle, Owl, Hidden, Hennipen, Ottawa and Illinois, east of the Rock. Between Starved Rock and the main bluff to the south is a for- mation similiar in size and character to Starved Rock known as Devil 's Nose. East of Starved Rock, its base washed by the waters of the Illi- nois, Lovers' Leap, a projection of the bluff, rears its massive form, the eastern end of which is known as Eagle Cliff. A short distance above Eagle Cliff, a smaller but similiar formation is known as the Bee Hive and still further east a spur of the bluff, shaped by the action of the elements into the semblance of a pulpit is known as Pulpit Rock. At the eastern entrance to the Park is the Salt Well, a natural spring of water highly impregnated with minerals. By acquiring this site, the State of Illinois has fittingly returned its most historic landmark, situated amidst scenery of rare excellence, to its citizens for their free and perpetual enjoyment. 55 mP$*Z Metamora Court House. 56 METAMORA COURT HOUSE. THE official transfer of the old Metamora Court House to the State of Illinois, to be preserved for the ages as a Lincoln Me- morial Museum was celebrated on August 26, 1921, as a note- worthy event in connection with the annual Woodford County Old Settlers reunion. In 1843 the county seat was located at Metamora, then known by the name of Hanover and remained there until 1896, when it was re- moved to Eureka. The old court house was built in 1845 by David Irving. The timbers were hewn out of logs cut near the village. The bricks were burned at Metamora. A large portion of the lumber from Johnson's Mill near by, was black walnut and today stands as verifying evidence of its stability. Nature had been prodigal in her gifts of raw material and did her part in the building. It was an oblong building forty feet wide by fifty feet long, with a hall running through the middle from the front to the rear, with offices on either side of the hall. At the rear or north end of the build- ing there were stairs leading to the second story and the court room was entered from the north end. The building was surmounted, as it still is, with a cupola, which could be seen for a long distance over the then treeless prairie. In 1870 the stairs were changed to the front of the building and the arrangement of the court room altered, but the original building stands the same; as when erected, with the exception of two wings, added about 1884. The value of this modest temple of justice is not in its splendid architecture nor in the materials of which it is built but rather in the sacred memories that cluster about it. In this rgeard it is doubtful if a more important or valuable court house can be found in the United States. It was the forensic home of many noted lawyers. Abraham Lincoln, as a circuit riding lawyer, had been attending court in old Versailles, the first county seat of Woodford County. On the removal of the county seat to Metamora he continued to ride the circuit from one county seat to another. He was a regular attendant at court in Metamora until the late fifties. The old building is the last remaining court house in the state in which Lincoln practiced law. There were times when Abraham Lincoln, Adlai E. Stevenson, Judge David Davis and Robert G-. Ingersoll all met under the roof of that building, not only once, but many times. No one would have believed at that time that, within the walls of that unpretentious struc- ture, there were assembled a future President and Vice-President, a future Judge of the highest judicial body in the world and the greatest orator of his age. Yet this all proved to be true. A country is rich or poor according to the traditions which in- fluence and shape its course and the present generation can best serve posterity by preserving imperishably the names and deeds of the great and good men who have preceded us. To preserve the old court house 57 at Metamora will aid to preserve the fame and names of the great and distinguished men who have been associated with it and the Fifty- Second General Assembly ruled well when they arranged to make .* ' Old Metamora ' ' one of the monuments of our state that the associa- tions connected with it might be an inspiration for future generations. FORT CREVE COEUR. ONE of the most interesting periods of Illinois history is that of French discovery, exploration and settlement. While Father Marquette, in 1673, made a voyage down the Mississippi river, no attempt was made to possess or colonize the country visited. That was left for that wonderful man, the intrepid chevalier, LaSalle, whose imagination wasi fired by the scanty account of a vast fertile country, whose only inhabitants were Indians. Backed by Frontenac, then governor of Canada, in his scheme of taking possession of this unknown country and the great river which would furnish a short route to the Pacific Ocean and the commerce of the east, he easily secured the necessary endorsements at court and started out. After many disheartening delays and disappointments, he reached, in December, 1679, the Illinois river with his party, con- sisting of 30 laborers, three priests and Henry de Tonti. On January 4, 1680, LaSalle entered Peoria lake. On the morn- ing of the 5th, he landed at the Indian village which was where the river narrows below the lake and assured the Indians of his peaceable intentions. Cordial relations were soon disturbed by a nocturnal visit to the Indians of a Miami chief who told them that LaSalle was a friend of their enemies, the Iroquois. This tale so alarmed the Indians that they decided not to assist LaSalle in his project of reaching the Mississippi. Many difficulties arose and some of LaSalle 's men deserted. He decided to build a fort to protect the balance from the Indians, At this time disaster after disaster befell LaSalle in his enter- prises. The Griffin, his first vessel, with its valuable cargo of furs, which he depended upon for his expense, was lost. A second vessel with merchandise from France, was wrecked while ascending the St. Lawrence. It is commonly supposed that LaSalle, dejected at his losses and his increasing difficulties called this fort "Creve Coeur" (broken heart) on that account, It was not until December, 1681, that his final journey down the Illinois was begun. He passed several weeks in the Illinois Valley and at last reached his goal, the mouth of the Mississippi, in April, 1682. The search for the truth as to the exact site of Fort Creve Coeur has been pursued for over many years. An examination of all the Illinois histories, both translations and originals of French writers on the subjects and many other books have been made, in order to make the collections of opinions as complete as possible. In 1921 the Illinois State Historical Society finally selected as the actual location of the fort a spot situated on a beautiful bluff overlooking the Illinois River 58 in Fon du Lac township, Tazewell County, south and east of Peoria. This is the site selected some years ago by the Peoria Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution. Mr. and Mrs. C. H. Wagner donated to the State of Illinois fifteen acres of land surrounding this location and a suitable marker has recently been erected on the site. DIXON BLOCKHOUSE. WHEN promoters of the Lincoln Highway routed the trail across the continent through Dixon perhaps they planned better than they knew. By accident more than design they brought it to touch the very site of the block house where Abraham Lincoln served as a soldier in the Black Hawk war in 1832. Here the High- way passes one of the three scenes of Lincoln's activities in its long route, another being the battlefield of Gettysburg where his famous speech was made. Not only because Lincoln was quartered here is the site of the block house famous. Several other prominent figures of American History were stationed here during the Black Hawk War. Zachary Taylor, another President, then a colonel in the army, made this his headquarters at one time. John Reynolds, later governor of Illinois. General Atkinson, Lieutenant Robert Anderson, defender of Fort Sumter, and the picturesque Jeff Davis, then a lieutenant, were quar- tered here. ILLINOIS MONUMENTS. For a list of monuments in Illinois and on battlefields where Illi- nois soldiers fought, the reader is referred to the Illinois Blue Book, 1921, pages 493 to 501 inclusive. SHABBONA MONUMENT. SHABBONA Park, comprising seven and one-half acres, located fourteen miles north of Ottawa, near the present site of Harding, in Freedom township, is the property of the LaSalle County Memorial Association. At a cost of $5,000 the State erected a monu- ment to mark the last resting place of the fifteen lives sacrificed here to the cruel rifle and scalping knife of the Indians of Black Hawks' band. Replete with thrilling incidents of Indian warfare and the earliest days, the history of the Illinois boasts of few of greater importance or historical interest than the Indian Creek massacre on this site on May 20, 1832. Shabbona, the chief of the Pottawatamies, but a friend of the whites was called to attend a war dance near Dixon in May, 1832, and was urged by Black Hawk to unite his several tribes with the 59 Sauks in a war of extermination upon the white settlers along the frontier. Black Hawk said, ' ' Shabbona, if you will permit your young men to unite with mine I will have an army like the trees in the forest and I will drive the palefaces before me like the autumn leaves before an angry wind." "Aye", replied Shabbona, "but the palefaces will soon bring an army like the leaves of the trees and sweep you into the ocean beneath the setting sun." Shabbona continued "That he had made a vow to the Great Spirit when he was second in command to Tecumseh in the battle of the Thames, that he would never again take up the tomahawk against the palefaces," But being unable to dis- suade the wily Sauk chief from his murderous designs, he stole forth from the council of war in the dead of night and decided he would save the lives of the frontier settlers from the terrible torture of the tomahawk and scalping knife. He knew the consequences of becoming a traitor to his, people. He knew that his motives would be suspected by the palefaces whom he would befriend. He knew but few of them personally nor could he speak or understand their language. The distance to be traveled to the white settlement was more than one hundred miles in a straight line but the distance was much farther by the zigzag course he must take to reach them; could he warn them of their danger and save their lives. Mounted on his favorite pony, guided only by the stars for a compass, he started on his long journey. Coming to the south he was joined by his son, Pyps, and away went these couriers of mercy, 1 .„,-«■ m1': ;■;'■: -■';■; -^BW^^Sv^MZ Monument erected in 1906 to the memory of tho victims of the Indian Creek Massacre of 183? 60 Pyps to the west and Shabbona to the east, over prairies and through timbers in the dark night, where there were no roads or bridges, pursued by Sauk spies. Turning his back upon his own people forever, well knowing he would be branded as a Benedict Arnold, he went from house to house calling upon the people to flee for their lives, telling some to go to the Fort at Ottawa, others to Fort Dearborn at Chicago. Every settler was warned along the whole frontier in time to speed to points of safety, but alas, there were few who failed to heed the timely warning and notably so the victims of the Indian Creek Massacre, when sixteen white men and children were scalped and several women were taken captive. Hence it is that the history of the trials of the pioneer settlers of this county could not be written without relating the virtues of the great chief — Shabbona. I ::!3i : Shabbona, The White Man's Friend. 61 CAHOKIA MOUNDS STATE PARK. AFTER many, many years of earnest solicitation from archeolo- gists and scientists interested in the preservation of our all too rare examples of early civilization, the State of Illinois, in 1925, purchased the great Cahokia Mound and its most important neighbor- ing mounds located in St. Clair and Madison Counties four miles from East St. Louis. Governor Emmerson realizing their value as the most important work left by a prehistoric race on the American Continent and that the State has no other topographical asset of the appeal and sugges- tiveness of this one, is developing, through the Department of Public Works and Buildings, Mr. H. H. Cleaveland, Director, this tract as a State park so that it will be convenient and interesting to its many visitors. The Egyptian Pyramids are masses of stone in a desert region without value, and they have been partially demolished. Had they been great earth works and had the surrounding land been needed for industrial development, they would have been obliterated by this time. This would have been the fate of the Cahokia Mounds group that stands to the prehistoric Indian culture of the United States as the pyramids do to that of Egypt. This region is in the suburbs of a rapidly growing industrial city, which would have inevitably overrun and destroyed the Mounds had they not been preserved by the State of Illinois. The Mound Builders never failed to use wise judgment in their choice of sites for habitation or the erection of their principal struc- tures. No better place could have been found for the Cahokia and its forty-five or fifty mounds than in the upper Mississippi Valley near the juncture of the Missouri from the West and the Illinois, from the North East. This stretch of level surface, composed of rich and fer- tile fields, known as the "American Bottom", was a wonderful hunt- ing territory for fish and game, well adapted to the primitive life of a prehistoric people. Near the center of this bottom, the Cahokia, stands today, as it has stood for untold centuries, the most massive monument of the Mound Builders in the world. Surrounding this mound, within a radius of two or three miles, in a fairly perfect state of preservation, in various shapes and sizes, from ten to sixty feet in height, are some fifty lesser mounds. Cahokia Mound is a truncated rectangular pyramid rising to a height of one hundred feet. The dimensions of its base are from north to south 1,080 feet ; from east to west 780 feet. The area of the base is a little over sixteen acres, a greater area than the Pyramid of Cheops — the greatest of the Egyptian tombs. The mound was origi- nally a curious series of receding terraces. To give some conception of the construction of this wonderful structure, the physical act of carrying every foot of earth deposited in this mound, the cubical con- tents of which approximates 1,076,000 cubic yards of earth, and the 62 Cahokia Mound, from, an original drawing. 63 labor of loading and unloading this material, would occupy 2458 men two years working every day in the year or 150 Mound Builders 39 years. The air of mystery which surrounds this, structure both as to date of its erection and occupancy and the purposes for which it was built and its hidden mysteries remain unsolved. Its creation, no doubt, antedated the existence of the Indian for historians regard Cahokia Mound as the work of Manitou, the Great Spirit. The name of Monks' Mound seems to have been given this mound for the reason that sometime in the first decade of the last century a number of monks of the Trappist Order founded a monastery upon its summit. After living here for eight years, fever broke out among them and those who did not die returned to Switzerland. Geologists and archeologists are generally agreed that these mounds were built by a primitive and prehistoric people and so far as any evidence can be shown, built by hand with implements of the crudest and most primitive character. It has become an accepted fact that these Mound Builders were co-existent with the Mound Builders of Egypt, Earthern mounds are common in Egypt and there is hardly a doubt that these pyramids, like those of Mexico, were erected for religious purposes and used as tombs for the great on rare occasions. The Egyptians began with solar worship. So were the Mexicans, Peruvians, and our own Mound Builders worshippers of the Sun. Evidence tends to prove this group of the greatest mounds in the world had its origin in religious purposes. Upon the flat summ.it of Cahokia were their sanctuaries, glittering with barbaric splendor and where could be seen from afar the smoke and flames of the eternal fire, their emblem of the sun. At the city of Mexico, the Spaniards found the Aztecs holding their religious ceremonies on almost precisely such a structure as Cahokia. The mounds about the base of Cahokia were doubtless used for sacred purposes and the ad- joining mounds may have been for residences for the priests. When one surveys the slopes and declivities of these mounds from every position and notes the uniformity of structure and mathemati- cal exactness of outline ; when one takes into consideration the soil of which they are composed is uniformly throughout the entire mass of the same species as that of the prairie at their bases ; when one re- flects on the nature of their contents, he must admit, without a doubt, that these gigantic piles are the workmanship of man's hand. Travelers, after admitting that nature is revealed on a grand scale in America, complain that this new world is lacking in anti- quities like those in the old. They should come to Cahokia and stand- ing on its pinnacle, look down on the monuments of prehistoric America. When he asks who built them, his voice will go echoing among the temples below but the answer will never return for no one knows. The past has buried its dead. Thompson, the author of "The Mississippi Valley" fittingly describes this spot as follows : "From the top of this great mound, the view is of exceeding beauty. The wide prairie stretches for miles its carpeting of green gemmed with 64 the most beautiful flowers and dotted at intervals with clusters of trees that look in the distance like emeralds embossed in a rich embroidery, while there, where formerly the wild buffalo ranged, now herds of domestic cattle are grazing and "Peace is tinkling in the shepherd's bell And singing with the reapers ." >• ..'Vi Sftf..***, n**. * , ;;~sss«:<;:™...-".<.,^:,., ,-te*^. ^ ,. %»•■-! * *\ **^~ .* Custodian's Home and Relic House, Cahokia Mounds Park. 65 GARRISON HILL CEMETERY. THE pioneers of Old Kaskaskia originally rested in three ceme- teries. When it became evident that, due to the encroachment of the Mississippi river upon the old village of Kaskaskia, by the cutting of a new channel just north of said town into Kaskaskia river, the remains of these pioneers of the State buried in the three cemeteries adjacent to the banks of this new channel, were in imminent danger of being washed away and their resting places forever obliter- ated, the General Assembly in 1891 purchased twenty acres of land on Garrison Hill, the site of the ancient fortress of Kaskaskia. As it is and always has been the universal desire of posterity among all civilized people to revere the memories of their dead and with humane and Christian liberality to honor and protect their graves, the bodies were removed to the spot designated by the State as the last resting place. A monument was erected in honor of these pioneers, who materially assisted in opening to settlement the northwest territory. The in- scription on the monument reads, "Those who sleep here were first buried at Kaskaskia and afterwards removed to this cemetery. They were the early pioneers of the great Mississippi Valley. They planted free institutions in a wilderness and were the founders of a great commonwealth. In memory of their sacrifices Illinois gratefully erects this monument, 1892." The fathers of our Illinois lie here Beside us, gratefully remembered still. High their devotion,, free their hearts from fear, Earnest their wish to know and keep God's will. Homely their virtues, arduous their hours Of labor, but its fruit and flowers were theirs; Greed and injustice and a despot's powers Theirs to despise, and heard their simple prayers. For poverty they knew devoid of dread despair, Concordant spirits touching happiness, With, little mirths and gayeties to share In freedom from the greater world's distress. Give them all honor ! Far from their own land Their profitable lives on history 's page They wrote without repining, and shall stand Blessed thro all time by us who hold their heritage. 66 LOVEJOY MONUMENT. THE monument, in memory of Elijah Parish Lovejoy, the fear- less forerunner of Emancipation, the champion of the right of free speech and the anti-slave editor of pre-civil war days, was erected in Alton Cemetery in 1897 — the sixtieth anniversary of his death. The State of Illinois made an appropriation of $25,000.00 and the citizens of Alton made a gift of $5,000.00 to cover the cost. It is estimated that the shaft could not now be built for less than $75,000.00. The monument is a massive granite column, some 93 feet high, surmounted by a bronze statue of Victory, 17 feet high and weighing 8700 pounds, It is emblematic of the triumph of the cause for which the hero died. The sculptor's ideal was Victory and that conception has been expressed throughout the entire work. The winged statue of Victory which crowns the main shaft and the exultant eagles with outstretched wings surmounting the sentinel columns, alike express the idea of triumph and consummation. Long may this column stand, a consecrated monument to faith and courage in a> righteous cause ! Long may this column stand, a noble reminder of Milton's noblest line — "Peace hath her victories no less renowned than war!" Long may this column stand, to tell in mute yet eloquent language that ' ' Whether on scaffold high, Or in the battle's van, The fittest place for man to die, Is "Where He Dies For Man. ' ' BLACK HAWK STATE PARK. By John H. Hauberg. "I have fought the Big Knives and will continue to fight them until they retire from our lands," so said Black Hawk at Prairie du Chien in 1815. He had the courage of his convictions; he saw no reason to change his mind and the result was war, and wide notoriety for himself and that of his village on Rock River. The present Black Hawk State Park was in its day the Capital city of the Sauk and Fox nation. Here lived the powerful chiefs whose signatures were sought by the white Treaty-makers. Draw a line from the Wisconsin State line near Lake Geneva and from there, southwesterly by way of Elgin, Aurora, Ottawa, Peoria and to the mouth of the Illinois river. All Illinois lands lying west of that line were ceded to the United States in a treaty signed by four chiefs from this village. Practically all of the present State of Iowa and large parts of Missouri and Wisconsin were signed away by other chiefs and headmen residing here. In all wars the world over, the capital city of the enemy nation becomes the favorite object of attack. So it was with the Capital on Rock River. In 1780 General George Rogers Clark sent one of his 67 brave armies to attack the Sauk village here. It was the westernmost campaign of the Revolutionary war, and the thirteen-year-old Black Hawk saw his home town go up in smoke. By the time the second war with Great Britain was in progress, Black Hawk had won his spurs as a fighter and the Britons called him ' ' General Black Hawk. ' ' In 1814 Major Zachary Taylor was sent here to again destroy the village but the Americans were met at the outskirts of the village, at Credit Island which lies just opposite the mouth of Rock River, distant two and a half miles from the State Park, and here Black Hawk together with British soldiers and other Indians of the Upper Mississippi administered a thorough defeat to Taylor and his men. The next attack upon this Capital of old, was in 1831, when the Illinois volunteers came and burned the village, Black Hawk having fled to escape what would doubtless have been a severe drubbing. A fourth time the village was the target, and again Black Hawk and his Braves were absent and bloodshed was averted. This last visit of the Illinois volunteers together with U. S. Regulars, was in 1832, the second and last year of the Black Hawk war. Lest the reader should think that the Black Hawk war was without #ny bloodshed let us say here that it was a most unpleasant, bloody affair, with a hundred-fifty whites killed; about twice that number of soldiers carried off by the plague of cholera during the campaign against the War Chief, and a thousand, more or less of Black Hawk's fol- lowers dead. Incidently, it was most fitting that the State of Illinois should take over these lands for a State Park, for during the troubles with Black Hawk every County in the State had its brave men enrolled, and they made the long marches over the endless, weary trails; endured the privations of campaigns in the wilderness, and many of them never returned, having made the supreme sacrifice. It is Watch Tower Inn, Black Hawk State Park. 69 true that adjoining States had large numbers enlisted, and that the National Government had its Regulars in the conflict, but aside from the latter, it fell to Illinois to fight to a finish, this, the last Indian war of the old Northwest Territory. The old Indian Capital was not always given over to war. Black Hawk in his autobiography tells of happy times, of feasting, of dancing, of sports in which, in the old ball game of LaCrosse, as many as six-hundred to a thousand young men would be engaged at a time, horse racing, boat racing, of particular occasions when the young ladies would paint and wear feathers and made themselves most attractive — for what? For the same, same old, old reason. The Watch Tower, which is the finest part of the State Park, was particularly their pleasure resort. Once when a visiting French- man went up with them, to join in their festivities, he took with him his fiddle and proceeded to give them an exhibition of playing and dancing to his music at the same time. In his hilarity he became reckless; tumbled overboard, over the steep bluff and lost his life. It speaks volumes for the fine sentiment of the Indian to know that after this unfortunate occurence as the years rolled by, the Indians at the same season of the year would hear the strains of the French- man's violin here. Romance there was about the present State Park. Black Hawk gives us a charming story about the young Sioux Brave who fell in love with the Sauk maiden, enemy to the Sauk though he was. The couple started to elope; were overtaken by an electric storm; took shelter under an overhanging rock at an interesting bit of rock scenery on the Park grounds ; a thunderbolt struck the rock and the unfortunate lovers still lie buried beneath the mass of fallen rock which the visitor may see today. A tiny stream of pure, cold water trickles from the base of the rock, and it has been known for a hundred years as Indian Lovers Spring. As for himself, Black Hawk said: "This Tower to which my name has been applied, was a favorite resort, and was frequently visited by me alone, when I could sit and smoke my pipe and look with wonder and pleasure at the grand scenes that were presented by the sun 'si rays, even across the mighty water. ' ' How long has Black Hawk State Park been used as a pleasure resort? Whatever else the white man may have desecrated, he has never used the Watch Tower for any purpose other than as a picnic ground, or in other ways recreational. The Sauk and, Fox Indians used it as such. All about this community we find mounds of the people we refer to as the Mound Builders. Their mounds are so commonly found on high eminences from which the most beautiful views are to be had, that we must admit they loved beautiful nature. It is within the bounds of reason to presume that they too had the Watch Tower as their resort. Add together these tenures. Perhaps we may lay claim to a boast that here is the longest used park in the Great Valley. Somewhere in this great Middle- west; in this broad Mississippi Valley the White Man was bound for conscience's sake to set aside 70 some spot to be dedicated to our Red brother as a memorial to bis love of home and country ; some spot set aside in honor of his fight- ing spirit as he battled for his beloved villages and hunting grounds. This duty was fulfilled when the Legislature set aside Black Hawk Watch Tower Park, to be a State Park, for about this spot are bound up the entire scale of human emotions ; of hope and fear ; of triumph and defeat; of love and sorrow; of splendid march of expanding empire and of disaster so pitiful it wrung the hearts of the very people who crushed them. Black Hawk said : "It was here that I was born, and here lie the bones of many friends and relations. For this spot I felt a sacred reverence, and never could consent to leave it without being forced therefrom." General E. P. Gaines was sent to Fort Arm- strong to remove the War Chief and his people, and summoned Black Hawk to the fort to hear the white man's ultimatum, but the chief, now in his sixty-fifth year had an utlimatum of his own to announce. With him came a party of his braves, singing the war song, armed with lances, spears, war-clubs, bows and arrows as if go- ing to battle. General Gaines announced his mission, that of having come to remove the Indians to the west of the Mississippi but Black Hawk had the last word: "I will not leave my village. I am deter- mined not to leave it." Over the hills and hollows of northwestern Illinois, southwestern Wisconsin and eastern Iowa there were scat- tered the bones of a thousand, more or less, of Black Hawk's fol- lowers, who with) equal determination had said they would not give up their homes and the graves of their ancestors. They died in battle, massacre, starvation, drowned in the attempt to swim rivers. Weak- ened with wounds, hunger and sickness they dropped out of line in the wilderness and met Death alone with no one to so much as give a word of comfort; a proud people who "Loved not wisely but too well. ' ' The White man gained his point — that of possession. Eleven tribes of the Upper Mississippi and Great Lakes region had agreed to stand by Black Hawk, but overwhelming odds of white men frightened them before they started. We find no place in the Mississippi Valley where so many men of future fame were engaged in a military campaign as are to be found on the rolls of the Black Hawk War, 1831-1832. Among them were Presidents Zachary Taylor and Abraham Lincoln ; General Winfield Scott who himself was thrice a candidate for the presidency ; Jefferson Davis and two of his fore- most generals, Albert Sydney Johnston and Joseph E. Johnston ; Gen- eral Robert Anderson of Fort Sumpter fame; Generals William S. Harney, Edmund P. Gaines; Henry Atkinson, and Philip Kearney; United States Senator Edward Dickinson Baker who introduced his friend Lincoln on the occasion of the latter 's first inauguration ; also U. S. Senators Semple, Browning and Richardson of Illinois ; six Governors of Illinois, namely: John Reynolds; Joseph Duncan; Thomas Ford; Thomas Carlin; John Wood and William L. D. Ewing; Judges of all grades up to that of the State Supreme Court, and many another notable or scion thereof, such as the Rev. Peter Cart- wright, the fighting Methodist Circuit rider; Levi D. Boone, son of 71 the famous Daniel Boone of Kentucky; William S. Hamilton, son of the Revolutionary patriot, Alexander Hamilton, and many another. The natural features about Black Hawk State Park are pre- served to a remarkable degree, for none of it has ever come under the white man's plow. It is still virgin. The lay of the land may be likened to a hand with fingers extended, for there are ridges reaching out from a common level. Along the top of the ridges one finds the Trail. How long these trails have been there no living man knows. No one remembers when they were not there. Having never been plowed or otherwise cultivated, we are aware that our feet tread the same ground, in the same trail formerly trodden by moc- casined feet. The woodland is largely white oak, but our Patriarch, Mr. David Sears, has catalogued forty-five varieties of trees on the Park grounds together with a dozen or more shrubs and vines. A large attractive Inn, built in 1916, offers shelter and food, and an Auto-tourist camp is open to all visitors. Owing to its many historic associations, the Black Hawk State Park is looking forward to an historical museum where things per- taining to the Indian may be exhibited, and also relics and pictures of those who took part in the Black Hawk War. Such collection will be of value to the people of our State, and others ,as they visit these old Indian grounds, for it will give them a new appreciation of the struggles and the battles! of our forefathers, who cleared a way through the wilderness, and made possible the comforts and luxuries which today are ours. j Meanwhile, Dear Visitor, let us entreat you to seek out some quiet spot, down by the river's side, or in the woodland, or at the point of the Watch Tower, and listen. You will hear voices out of the long ago. They may be of' one standing at the edge of the bluff calling to those on the island below; calling the dusky maiden or squaw from their work in the cornfields. You will hear the fond mother singing to her papoose; the laughter of happy Indian child- ren ; maybe you will hear the strains of the Frenchman's violin. Per- chance you may hear the wail of anguish of the dying soul of one who loved this spot above all others and in that behalf gave the last full measure of devotion — and lost. For nothing in this World is lost. WHITE PINE FOREST PARK. ONE of Illinois' newest public parks, the famous White Pine Forest, thrown open to the public for the first time in 1928, gives promise of proving one of the most popular of the State Parks. Acquisition of this site followed an agitation of more than thirty years on the part of conservationists who were desirous of having this forest come into possession of the State, thus insuring its preservation. The White Pine Tree tract lies in Ogle County, nine miles from Oregon and seven miles from Polo. It is bounded on the south by the Chicago and Iowa Trail and on the east by the highway leading to Mt. Morris, five miles to the north. To the west and southwest, 72 73 the tract reaches out irregularly over the charming; Spring Valley Branch toward the little village of Stratford on the Burlington. A report by Mr. R. S. Kellog, of the United States Forest Service, some years ago, made the following recommendation : "The tract should be made into a State Forest Reserve since it is the only White pine grove in the State and shows excellent prospects of en- larging itself by natural seeding — in time, perhaps, overrunning the greater part of the tract — if a little care is taken to cut out a little oak now and then, as the young pines become larger and denser. The natural beauties are exceptional. Natural conditions are favorable to good tree growth. The present forest is young, and evidently very few of the trees in it are over seventy-five years old. In a rather hurried survey, the following species were noted: red oak, white oak, burr oak, scarlet oak, chinquapin oak, white elm, slippery elm, large-tooth aspen, quaking aspen, sugar maple, box elder, hornbeam, hop horn beam, red mulberry, black walnut, butternut, shagbark hickory, pignut hickory, mocker-nut sycamore, white ash, black ash, choke cherry, black cherry, wild plum, basswood, hop tree, black willow, Juneberry, white pine, red cedar. "The interesting feature of the proposed reserve is the small forest of white pine, which is unique for Illinois and represents the southermost ex- tension of the species in this section of the United States. (This does not take into consideration the scattered groups of white pines in Starved Rock Park). The maximum height of the pine is 90 feet and the largest diameter, breast high, about 30 inches. A long distance in the tract from the nearest pine tree one finds patches of young pine so dense as to be almost impenetrable, while smaller numbers and individual young trees are scattered about everywhere. A few years of care and good management would make this tract a beautiful spot and a fine object lesson in forest preservation and regeneration." In October the brilliant colors of the hardwoods (which are inter- mixed with the evergreens) mingled with the soft, rich green of the white pines and the young growth make a picture of entrancing love- liness. Here is a combination of attractions not found at any other place in Illinois. It is one of nature's choicest gems placed here by the Creator not for our enjoyment alone but for that of the people of all times. In addition to these many attractions, it has that of being the third highest elevation in the State, being 950 feet above sea level. One of the picturesque features of the White Pine grove is Pine Creek, the name of which indicates the region, and which is about twenty-five miles in length. It finds its way by many windings be- tween high, mossy fern, and vine covered walls of rock through the cool depths of the forest, on to Rock River, near its curious bend at Grand de Tour. Steps are now being taken to improve the roads through the forest so that the picturesque features will be available to motorists. Judicious improvements will be made without destroying any of the natural beauty and yet will promote the comfort and enjoyment of the tourists. "The Pine Forest of Illinois Speaks." "Above your acres of corn and grain "We stand, a living choir To put life's prose into rhyme again While the dreams of youth inspire. ' ' 74 Artists come here to sketch and paint, to tramp, to canvass the beautiful scenes which nature so lavishly displays. Thousands of men, women, and children come here every season to breathe the healthful atmosphere and enjoy the beautiful scenery. Nature has given us a unique tract. Let us repay her by watchful care of the trees, the vines, and the many, many flowers while at the same time we are enjoying them. GIANT CITY PARK. GIANT CITY PARK located in Union and Jackson Counties comprises some nine hundred odd acres. It is called "The Switzerland of Southern Illinois" and scenically it is all of that. We think of Illinois as the Prairie State, with level plains and gently rolling hills yet we have in Southern Illinois, the foothills of the Ozarks where that romantic range extends across the Mississippi from Missouri. Perhaps nowhere else, save in the mountainous countries (cer- tainly no where else in Illinois) is there any such peculiar and attractive natural formation of bluffs and chasms as this section contains. Here by some strange action of the elements, countless ages past, huge blocks of stone were cast off from the natural forma- tion and stand like buildings in the downtown section of a city. Be- tween these cubical stone blocks, canyons, like city streets extend in both directions. Wierd formations entrance the visitor. There are springs of clear water and cascades, from which spring freshets send copious streams down from the heights to seek the river by winding water-courses. The vegetation is in keeping with the variation of the contour. Trees of great girth and height are found here. In the deep ravines and street-like chasms, ferns and wild flowers grow in wild profusion. Nature is lavish in bestowing upon mankind the beautiful, the curious and the interesting. In springtime the rich black virgin soil pro- duces wild flowers of superb loveliness. In the sultry months of summer, these sheer walls protect the valleys from the searing sun and the vegetation there continues to flourish after other growths, exposed to the sun, lose their vitality. The master hand in autumn guilds the trees a deeper, richer tint than man can imitate. Here the weary traveler can rest and refresh himself. A study of the works of nature in all her loveliness is offered. This section of Southern Illinois at the time of the Rebellion was the borderland between the North and the South. Within the fast- nesses of these hills, roving bands of warriors and unorganized de- tachments of troops, renegades, deserters, and bushwhackers had their rendevous. Secret sessions of the societies of the period held their conclaves within the confines of the caverns that abound among the hills. On the sandstone bluffs there are names, dates, and titles of men who passed that way years ago. The elements have not yet entirely defaced the crude lettering. These inscriptions tell of times that meant much in the history of Illinois and in her part in the pre- 75 Giant City, State Park. 76 11 Wm&£&« "Devil's" Stand Table, Giant City, State Park. 77 servationi of our national unity. On the highest hill in the park a legend of the country says a Union soldier lashed to the topmost branches of a tree displayed the Union Flag in defiance of the gueril- las. .The flag could be seen by all the countryside. Around this in- cident there is woven a beautiful story of the Rebellion, entitled ' 'The Flag on the Hilltop." Down through the center of the State, that magnificient trunk line known as Route 2 spans the length of Illinois. This strip of con- crete lies like a ribbon of silver satin upon a rumpled pattern of green velvet. It circumscribes high hills and traverses gradual slopes. On either side as far as the vision extends, the hills clad with fruit trees, stretch off into the horizon. Within the fertile valleys, truck gardens are tucked into the folds of streams that flow into the Missis- sippi. Illinois has points of interest, of beauty, and of historical value. Giant City is among the foremost. The State has perpetuated it and thrown open to its citizens this fairyland for their rest, relaxation, and enjoyment. BUFFALO ROCK PARK. BUFFALO ROCK, hardly as high as Starved Rock, is on the north side of the Illinois river, four miles below Ottawa. It is about two miles long, forty to sixty rods wide, its southern base washed by the river, while a wide cut, through which part of the river once flowed, separates it from the bluff on the north ; through this cut the canal and the Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific Railroad find a convenient passage. This rock was once an island in the Illi- nois, as there is no doubt that the Illinois was, sometime in the past, much wider than now, and extended from bluff to bluff, through the extent of the valley. The water marks along the sand-rock bluffs, and the washed gravel on the high bottoms, all point unmistakably to that conclusion. The Illinois Indians made the valley in which this spot is located their central point and they fought for years, with the northern tribes, for its possession. The French; explorers made it one of their prin- cipal military, missionary and trading posts. Its history, if it could all be written, would be of intense interest. The State of Illinois is indebted for this splendid acreage to Richard T. Crane, Jr., who deeded it in November, 1928, for the pleasure of the citizens of Illinois. PIERRE MENARD HOME. PIERRE MENARD was born October 7, 1766, at St. Antoine, Canada. In 1790, he moved to Kaskaskia, where he engaged in the business of trading in furs and established one of the most extensive trading houses in the West. He was government agent for the Indians and enjoyed their implicit confidence. From 1812, until Illinois became a state, Menard presided over 78 w*4 w^mm "mt? SSfa w #;' 'i f f - ' ■ . . . s,m iitii :.:ftl ■}. -i/ofe?'-. ,. 3Jff-* 79 the territorial legislature, later becoming the first Lieutenant Gover- nor. In 1802, Pierre Menard built his home on the east side of the Kaskaskia river on high ground and it alone of all the homes of those pioneers is still standing. It is built of oak with interior finish of black walnut, in the French style of architecture. The shutters are cut from solid lumber. The mantles were imported from France. The house is 77x44 feet exclusive of kitchen. The kitchen is floored with flag stones, has an immense rock fireplace, a capacious stone oven and a sink made from ?olid rock. The bricking up of the fireplace and the changing of the position of the steps leading to the gallery are the only material changes. His official life ended with his term as Lieutenant Governor. He had been for twenty-seven years an unselfish, faithful and able public servant enjoying the respect and affection of the people. He devoted the balance of his life to his business and assisting the poor and unfor- tunate. On his death in 1884, he was buried at Kaskaskia. When the Mississippi encroached upon Kaskaskia, the State removed the remains of the old pioneers across the river to Garrison Hill. The relatives of Menard at first objected to the removal of his body but when it became imperative that this be done, they buried him on the bluff near Garrison Hill Cemetery. Old residents point out the unprotected resting place where he has since lain, without even a wooden cross to designate the sacred spot. The purchase of this property will remind posterity that he is not forgotten by the State he loved and served so well. The General Assembly and Governor Emmferson merit the approbation of the citi- zens of Illinois for having made possible the preservation of this historic home with all its thrilling memories. CAMPBELL'S ISLAND MONUMENT. AMONG the many islands in the Mississippi River one of the most beautiful is Campbell's Island. In early days it was selected by the United State Government as a military post and is today the seat of the largest arsenal in our country. It is six miles east of Moline. Its shore is historic and holy ground. Here in the war of 1812, the Americans under Major John Campbell bound on their mission to keep the peace were waylaid by the cruel and misguided savages and innocent blood was shed to render crimson the story of border warfare. The date of the battle of Campbell's Island has been in dispute, some giving it as July 19, others as July 21, 1814. The Americans fought Black Hawk's band with the courage of heroes and this battle has no equal for daring and heroism during the war of 1812. The Legislature at its session of 1904-05 appropriated $5,000.00 for the erection of a monument to mark this spot. 80 CAVE IN ROCK PARK. CAVE IN ROCK is in Hardin County about twenty miles below Shawneetown and about thirty miles below the mouth of the Wabash River. The river bluff is, at this point, about two miles long. It has an average height of about sixty feet. The views from the top of the bluff up and down the Ohio River are most pleasing. Looking up the river one can see Government Lock and Dam No. 50, while down the river we see McKinley, Hurricane and Cave in Rock Island. Coursing down the Ohio, three or four miles before you reach this spot, you will view a scene truly romantic. On the Illinois side of the river, you will see large ponderous rocks piled upon the other, of different colors, shapes, and sizes. Some appear to have been fashioned by most skilled artisans; some seem to represent the ruins of ancient edifices ; others are thrown promiscuously in and out of the river as if Nature intended to show us with what ease she could handle those mountains of solid rock. In some places you see streams coursing down the rugged front while in others the rock project so far that you wonder how they keep their balance. Later the Cave (called by the Indians, "the habitation of the Great Spirit") comes into view. The mouth of the cave at a normal stage of the river is midway between the top of the bluff and the water's edge. The mouth is an arched opening, semi-elliptical in shape and at its base about fifty-five feet in width. The cave extends back about one hundred and eight feet with an average width of forty feet. The ceiling is horizontal the entire length while the floor gradually slopes upward towards the rear and at the end reaches within a few feet of the ceiling. On either side is a solid bench of rock. In the roof about the middle of the cave is seen an opening sufficiently large to receive the body of a man. From this hole, a second or upper cave is discovered, about four feet wide and ten feet high. There is a goodly amount of timberland in this section. Of approximately one hundred varieties of trees listed by the Department of Conservation as indigenous to this area, seventy-five per cent are found here. This Park is also rich in bird life. From fifty to seventy- five varieties make this their summer home and breeding ground. It was an ideal lair for river outlaws and gave them every advan- tage over passing travelers. In 1797 this cave was supposedly the ren- devous of the famous Mason gang of robbers who plundered and mur- dered the crews of boats descending the Ohio River. Authorities are of the opinion that there is far less physical evi- dence to indicate the previous presence of robbers and outlaws than that the place was inhabitated by prehistoric man. Five well defined mound sites in the fields above the bluff and many flint and stone im- plements picked up near the Cave indicate the former presence of Indians and Mound builders. On the bluff is an especially large Indian mound which stands today asi it was left by the Indians. On 81 the Kentucky side of the river at the Ferry is an Indian burying ground through which the high water of 1913 cut a path and exposed a large amount of Indian relics such as earthenware and peace pipes all intact. In 1918, there was unearthed on the bluff, a carved stone image, six inches high, four inches wide, weighing two pounds and six ounces, representing a man in squatting position. This leads on to the idea that the Cave was used as a temple sometime in the prehistoric past. Nature has set her seal of wonder upon some of her works, and surely among the number must be classed Cave-in-Rock. Interior of Cave-in-Rock. Reprinted by permission of the publishers, The Arthur H. Clark Company, from Rothert's The Outlaws of Cave-in-Rock, page 21. 82 ill. . ""- - ■ ■- '.■ Iff " — ^ctnvv-^ .- .* - -4i#^^ ■■ .*».■• ' f- ,1, ,t>, .. ... ' m .^ -ifr^iif"' I Cave In Rock. 83 Lincoln's Log Cabin in Coles County. (Copyright by Abraham Lincoln Log Cabin Association, Loaned by Mrs. Eleanor Gridley. ) 84 LINCOLN'S LOG CABIN. THE pilgrimage of the ancestors of Abraham Lincoln started in Hingham, Massachusetts, where about two hundred and ninety years ago, Samuel Lincoln, the first of the line, a lad of seven- teen, arrived as a pioneer. They passed successfully thence to New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Kentucky, Indiana, and Illinois. The story of these vigorous, independent pioneers, their passion for self keep and self rule goes far to account for Abraham Lincoln. These Lincolns were behind him. He was not an accident. Lincoln's childhood was passed in poverty and hardship, but it was never hopeless. His youth was passed in one of the most daring and promising struggles to which Americans have ever put their hands. It was the making of him and he flung himself into the struggle for Liberty for which his forefathers had already made great sacrifices. His rise to power was the natural triumph of his ambition, of his purpose to develop mind and character and of his eagerness for fair play. His rise from a humble log cabin to the White House may account in part for his fame. His humanitarian and tolerant attitude toward the suffering of common peonle may account for it still more. He hated war* but led his nation into war for the preservation of a prin- ciple. He fought the seceding States but never exhibited anything but kindness and sympathy toward the Southern people in their hours of trouble. He was in kindly man and an heroic one — a rare com- bination in history. The character of Lincoln is loved by ordinary folks and his ability and power are respected by Statesmen. Today thousands yearly make pilgrimages to the Lincoln Shrines. Over 150,000 from every State in the Union and many foreign lands make the trip to Springfield. Many monuments have been erected to his memory. Thousands of books have been written about his career. Spanish thinkers, French historians, German scholars and intellectual leaders venerate Lincoln as one of the finest characters that ever lived. The Chinese scholar studies the emancipator's career and finds it a source of inspiration. Feeling that the Lincoln legend should be preserved for succeed- ing generations in every way possible by Illinois, his home State, Governor Emmerson arranged for the purchase of the site of Lincoln's Log Cabin in Coles County, twelve miles from Charleston. To this point his family had moved from Macon County after having passed the severest winter that had been known in Illinois. Though broken by fever and ague his father, Thomas Lincoln, lived in Coles County till 1851, where he died, but not until he had seen his son one of the foremost men of Illinois and to receive from him many testimonials of filial affection. 85 fe*" M-J^ki.C.#'.,V*i JpSMp? *&L1 ,"IHi Twin Sisters, Mississippi Palisades Park. 86 MISSISSIPPI PALISADES PARK. State park authorities are agreed that State parks should in- clude the State's most magnificent unimproved scenery and, wherever practicable, include rock formations, plains, valleys, for- ests, and lakes or rivers. Firm in his opinion that the Mississippi Headland should be conserved by the State of Illinois for scenic and recreational reasons Director H. H. Cleaveland arranged for its acquisition for the benefits of its citizens. This scenic spot, where the huge towering Niagara Rocks lift their heads like a cyclopean wall, lies in Carroll County just north of the city of Savanna. Here the Mississippi River hugs closely to the park land and through thousands of years of erosion has formed these Mississippi Palisades which reminds one of the fam- ous Palisades of the Hudson. On these cliffs of prehistoric times, botanical and geological science as well as the early history of Illinois, compete with each other in interest to visitors. Like vast mural structures, rocks rise along the highest elevation, weather-worn into all kinds of fantastic shapes, displaying resemblances to old forts, ruined cathedrals, time-worn battlements, or distant spires, or towers of some old town. The "Indian Head" has a startling resemblance to the low- browed, high- cheeked bone of the Indian and the legend is that it was the handiwork of some ancient red craftsman. A cliff farther north, separated from the "Indian Head" by a pretty wooded valley has the form of a pair of tall separated columns called the ' i Twin Sisters. ' ' A small cavern near the ' ' Indian Head ' ' is reputed to be a favorite resting place and lookout of Black Hawk. The sight-seer, especially if he be a geologist, feels here a strange spell steal over him. Mighty visions of the old geologic ages thrill his soul. A leaf from the old stone book opens before him and he reads in the great Bible of Nature her sublime truths. The deep .ravines are filled with forests of ferns and the bases of the cliffs are covered with interesting plants not found on the adjacent prairies. Shrubs and vines are everywhere. Rare forms abound finding congenial habitation in the sheltered depths of the canyons where they are protected from the cold north wind. These headlands and cliffs were favorable places for the erec- tion of the interesting Indian Mounds that occur in this vicinity by the score. Some have been opened up and flints, beads, and other Indian relics have been discovered. The narrow, ridged, summits were the chosen trails of the Indians in passing from the great river to the hunting grounds to the north. These trails were used by the first white settlers and even today one can see the remnants of these old trails and coach roads. The panoramic view from the Palisades up and down the Mississippi River is of unusual charm. It is both dramatic and inspiring. Here we feel the greatness of the prairie country of Illinois to the fullest extent — its vastness and striking beauty. Here we may watch the great "Father of Waters" course silently by, carrying our thoughts to other shores and other people. 87 ^2 '*§&^£^ '*/* jfe* • ^a^lliiii *Jl0k*:' 1 '? ■ 1$ ii|jSgfc f> ' m J ' '^ii '"*■ " HnK IBiIITiTtF^ if-- - S§tt*? ¥C?'''.' > ->c ' ;'- « ;*.: Scene at Mississippi Palisades Park. 88 "" «! v '. 89 FORT KASKASKIA. This fort (heretofore erroneously called Fort Gage) was lo- cated near the mouth of the Okaw River earlier known as the Kaskaskia River. It was built by the French in 1733 on a bluff overlooking Kaskaskia, known as Garrison Hill. Historians tell us it was a wooden stockade reinforced with earth and used as a protection against the Chickasaws who were very hostile. In 1736 the French Government appropriated $150,000 for the erection of a permanent fort on a more pretentious scale on the same site. To this point in 1747, the garrison from Fort Chartres was moved on account of the insecure condition and poor location of the latter. Later in 1755, the new Fort Chartres was completed and the garrison was transferred back leaving only a small force at Kas- kaskia as a protection against the Indians. In 1766, the fort was destroyed by the French. We find no further reference to the Fort until 1784, when John Dodge, a daring Yankee from Connecticut, with a few desperadoes, took possession of this site, repaired the Fort and manned it with cannon taken from Fort Clark. Here they defied the Government, not only of Illinois, but of the United States. Colonel George Rogers Clark then appeared, established civil government, and Dodge was shorn of his power and disappeared. A feeling of awe steals over the mind as one reflects that in early ages this valley and the adjacent hills were the homes of those pioneers who accomplished so much for Illinois and whose records are so inadequately chronicled. Professor Elbert Waller in com- menting on Fort Kaskaskia writes, "A few days ago it was my privilege to climb the hill and view the site of this fort nearly two centuries old. I wish I could tell you how I felt when I stood on that ground and let my mind wander back to those days so dark, so terrible, and yet so splendid. The outline is still plainly visible. The earthworks are several feet high and the moat is deep all the way around. Grass and lillies cover the ground. The latter must have been brought from France and planted there in those days of long ago." 90 MONUMENTS IN ILLINOIS. Top — O'Connor's Lincoln, Spring-field; Tomb of Governor Bond, Chester; Douglas Tomb, Chicago. Center— Tanner Tomb, Springfield; Lincoln Home, Springfield. Bottom— Illinois Centennial Monument, Chicago; Riswold's Douglas, Springfield. 91 ILLINOIS BATTLEFIELD MONUMENTS. Top — Kenesaw Mountain Monument. Center — Eighth Illinois Cavalry, Eighty- second Illinois Infantry and Twelfth Illinois Cavalry at Gettysburg. Bottom — Illinois Monument at Shiloh; Illinois Monument at Vicksburg. 92 MONUMENTS IN ILLINOIS. Top— St. Gaudens' Lincoln, Chicago; Love joy Monument, Alton. Below— Lincoln Tomb, Springfield, statue of Richard J. Oglesby, Chicago. 93 ■l..«^WY' fti» i:T Campbell's Island Monument, Rock Island. 94 Mm'^::mmi^mm- 1 i 1 1 Fort Edwards Monument, Warsaw, 95 Marker at Fort Creve Coeur, Pekin. '^oj? oJV /o^S3 ef