368 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

PIKE'S EXPLORATIONS IN MINNESOTA,

1805-6.

(With the history of Minnesota there is intimately associated the name of General ZEBULON M. PIKE, U. S. A. who fell in battle at York, Canada, April 27, 1813. While a lieutenant, he was ordered by his commanding officer, the once notorious Gen. WILKIN- SON, to visit the Indian tribes of the Upper Mississippi, and expel the British traders. The party under his command was small, and his conveniences few, yet his work was well and heroically performed. In the preface to his book he says :

"In the execution of this voyage I had no gentleman to aid me, and I literally per- formed the duties of astronomer, surveyor, commanding officer, clerk, spy, guide and hunter — frequently preceding the p.irty for miles, in order to reconnoitre, and return- ing in the evening, hungry and fatigued, to sit down in the open air, by firelight, to copy the notes, and plot the courses of the day."

It has been the aim of the editor to make judicious extracts from his journal.)

SEPT. 1st. 1805, Sunday. — Embarked early ; wind fair ; arrived at the lead mines at 12 o'clock. We were saluted with a field piece, and received with every mark of atten- tion, by Monsieur DUBUQUE, the proprietor. There were no horses at the house, and it was six miles to where the mines were worked ; it was therefore impossible to make a report by actual inspection. I therefore proposed ten queries, on the answers to which my report was founded. Dined with Mr. D., who informed me that the Sioux and Saulteurs were as warmly engaged in opposition as ever ; that not long since the former killed fifteen Saulteurs, who, on the 10th of August, in return, killed ten Sioux, at the entrance of the St. Peters ; and that a war party, composed of the Sacs, Reynards and Puants, of 200 warriors, had em- barked on an expedition against the Saulteurs, but that they had heard that the chief having had an unfavorable dream, persuaded the party to return, and that I would meet them on my voyage. At this place I was introduced to a chief.

PIKE'S EXPLORATIONS IN MINNESOTA.

called the RAVEN of the Reynards. He made a very flowery speech on the occasion, which I answered in a few words, accompanied by a small present.

I had now given up all hopes of my two men, and was about to embark, when a peroque arrived, in which they were, with a Mr. BLONDEAQ and two Indians, whom that gentleman had engaged above the rapids of Stony River. The two soldiers had been six days without anything to eat except muscles, when they met Mr. JAMES AIRD, by whose humanity and -attention their strength and spirits were in a measure restored, and they were enabled to reach the Rey- nard village, where they met with Mr. B. The Indian chief furnished them with corn and shoes, and showed his friend- ship by every possible attention. I immediately discharged the hire of the Indians, and gave Mr. BLONDEAU a passage to the Prairie des Chiens. Left the lead mines at 4 o'clock. — Distance 25 miles.

SEPT. 3d, Tuesday. — Embarked at a pretty early hour. Cloudy. Met two peroques of family Indians ; they at first asked Mr. BLONDEAU, "if we were for war, or if going to war?" I now experienced the good effect of having some person on board who could speak their language, for they presented me with three pairfof ducks, and a quantity of veni- son, sufficient for all our crew one day ; in return I made them some trifling presents. Afterwards met two peroques, car- rying some of the warriors spoken of on the 2nd inst. They kept at a great distance until spoken to by Mr. B., when they informed him that their|party had proceeded up as high as Lake Pepin, without effecting anything. Distance 25 miles.

SEPT. 4th, Wednesday. — Breakfasted just below the Ouis- consing. Arrived at the Prairie des Chiens about 1 1 o'clock ; took quarters at Captain FISHER'S and were politely received by him and Mr. FRAZER.

SEPT. 6th, Friday. — Had a small council with the Puants, 23

37 U MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

and a chief of the lower band of the Sioux. Visited and laid out a position for a post, on a hill called the Petit Gris, on the Ouisconsing, three miles above its mouth. Mr. FISHER, who accompanied me, was taken very sick, in consequence of drinking some water outof the Ouisconsing. The Puants never have any white interpreters, nor have the Fols Avoin Nation. In my council, I spoke to a Frenchman, he to a Sioux, who interpreted to some of the Puants.

SEPT. 8th, Sunday. — Embarked at half past 11 o'clock, in two batteaux. The wind fair and fresh. I found myself very much embarrassed and cramped in my new boats, with provision and baggage. I embarked two interpreters, one to perform the whole voyage, whose name was PIEKRE Ros- SEAU, and the other, named JOSEPH RENVILLE, paid by Mr. FRAZER,to accompany me as high as the Falls of St. Anthony. Mr. FRAZER is a young gentleman, clerk to Mr. BLAKELy, of Montreal ; he was born in Vermont, but has latterly resided in Canada. To the attention of this gentleman I am much indebted ; he procured for me everything in his power that I stood in need of; despatched his bark canoes and remained himself to go on with me. His design was, ,to winter with some of the Sioux bands. We sailed well, came 18 miles, arid encamped on the W. bank. I must not omit here to bear testimony to the politeness of all the principal inhabitants of the village.

SEPT. 10th, luesday. — Rain still continuing, we remained at our camp. Having shot at some pigeons, the report was heard at the Sioux lodges/when LA FIEULLE* sent down six

* LA FIEULLE, or "The, Leaf," sometimes called LEFEI, orLEFOY, is otherwise knowi as WABASHA, the name of the hereditary chief of the Ki-yuk-sa band of Dakotas. In all the writings of that period he is termed The Leafr sometimes the Falling Leaf, It has been conjectured by some that this was probably considered a translation of hi* name, WA-BA-SHA, which should in that case strictly be W A-PA-SHA, i. e. WA-PA, leaf, and*S7ta, red But Messrs. Rio&s and POND, the learned Dakota scholars, in their Lexi- con assert that WABASHA'S name is derived from WA-pn-ha, a standard, and Sha, red. They spell the name of the chief WA-PA-HA-SHA. It is more likely that the name orig-

371

of his young men to inform me "that he had waited three days with meat, &c., but that last night they had begun to drink, and that on the next day he would receive me with his people sober. I returned him for answer, "that the season was advanced, that time was pressing, and that if the rain ceased I must go on." Mr. FRAZER and the interpreter went home with the Indians. We embarked about 1 o'clock, FRAZER returning, informed me that the chief acquiesced in my reasons for pressing forward, but that he had prepared a pipe (by way of letter) to present me, to show to all the Sioux above, with a message to inform them that I was a chief of their new fathers, and that he wished me to be treated with friendship and respect. On our arrival opposite to the lodges, the men were paraded on the bank, with their guns in their hands. They saluted us (with ball) with what might be termed three rounds ; which I returned with three rounds from each boat with my blun- derbusses. This salute, although nothing to soldiers accus- tomed to fire; would not be so agreeable to many people, as the Indians had all been drinking, and as some of them even tried their dexterity, to see how near the boat they could strike. They may, indeed, be said to have struck on every side of us. When landed, I had my pistols in my belt, and sword in hand. I was met on the bank by the chief, and invited to his lodge. As soon as my guards were formed, and sentinels posted, I accompanied him. Some of my men, who were going up with me, I caused to leave their arms behind, as a mark of confl-

inated from his chieftainship of the War-pe-ku-tes, one of the principal bunds of the Da- kotan, meaning "Leaf Shooters"— but why so called has never been known . PIKE else- where speaks of the Gens les Feuilles as one of the Sioux bands. There were three WABASHAWS known to white men since the Northwest began to be settled by the latter. The first was well known during the revolutionary period. The one refei^ed to by PIKE wa? a son of his. The present chief, WABASHA, who until 1853 resided at Waba- sha's village below Lake Pepin, and now lives on the Niobrarah Reservation, is a son of the chief who entertained PIKE. W.]

372 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

dence. At the chief 'splodge I found a clean mat and pillow for me to sit on, and the before mentioned pipe,, on a pair of small crutches before me. The chief sat on my right hand, my interpreter and Mr. FRAZER on my left. * * * * * I then eat of the dinner he

had provided. It was very grateful. It was wild rye and venison, of which I sent four bowls fo my men. I afterwards went to a dance, the performance of which was attended with many curious manoeuvres. Men and women danced indiscriminately. They were all dressed in the gayest manner ; each had in their hand a small skin of some description, and would frequently run up, point their skin and give a puff with their breath, when the person blown at, whether man or woman, would fall, and appear to be almost lifeless, or in great agony ; but would recover slowly, rise, and join in the dance. This they called their great medicine, or as I understood the word, dance of religion. The Indians believing that they actually puffed something into eagh other's bodies, which occasioned the falling, &c. It is not every person, who is admitted, persons wishing to join them, must first make valuable presents to the Society, to the amount of forty or fifty dollars, give a feast, and then are admitted with great ceremony. Mr. FRAZKR informed me, that he was once in the lodge with some young men, who did not belong to the club : when one of the dancers came in, they immedi- ately threw their blankets over him, and forced him out of the lodge , he laughed, and the young Indians called him a fool, and said "he did not know what the dancers might blow into his body." I returned to my boat, sent for the chief, and presented him with two carrots of tobacco, four knives, half a pound of vermillion, and one quart of salt. Mr. FRAZER asked liberty to present them some rum ; we made them up a keg between us, of eight gallons, Mr.

373

FRAZER informed the chief that he dared not give them any without my permission. The chief thanked me for all my presents, and said "they must corne free, as he did not ask for them." I replied, "that, to those who did not ask for anything I gave freely ; but to those who asked for much, I gave only a little or none. " We embarked about half past 3 o'clock : came three miles, and encamped on the W. side . Mr. FRAZER we left behind, but he came up with his two per- oques about dusk. It commenced raining very hard. In the night, a peroque arrived from the lodges at his camp. During our stay at their camp, there were soldiers appointed to keep the crowd from my boats, who executed their duty with vigilance and rigor, driving men, women and children back, whenever they came near my boats. At my depart- ure, their soldiers said, "as I had shaken hands with their ohief, they must shake hands with my soldiers. " In which request I willingly indulged them.

SEPT. 12th, Thursday. — It raining very hard in the morn- ing, we did not embark until 10 o'clock. Mr. FRAZER'S peroques then coming up. It was still raining, and was very cold. Passed the Racine river, also a prairie called Le Cross, from a game of ball played frequently on it by the Sioux Indians. This prairie is very handsome; it has a small square hill, similar to those mentioned by CARVER. It is bounded in the rear by hills similar to the Prairie des Chien. On this prairie Mr. FRAZER shewed me some holes, dug by the Sioux, when in expectation of an attack, into which they first put their women and children, and then crawl themselves. They were generally round, and about ten feet in diameter ; but some were half moons, and quite a breastwork. This, I understood, was the chief work, which was the principal redoubt. Their modes of con- structing them are, the moment they apprehend or discover an enemy on a prairie, they commence digging with their

374: MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

knives, tomahawks, and a wooden ladle ; and in an incredi- bly short space of time, they have a hole sufficiently deep to cover themselves and family from the balls or arrows of the enemy. They have no idea of taking those subterraneous redoubts by storm, as they would probably lose a great number of men in the attack ; and, although they might be successful in the event, it would be considered as a very imprudent action. Mr. FRAZER, finding his canoes not able to keep up, staid at this prairie to organize one of them, intending then to overtake us. Came on three miles fur- ther.

SEPT. 16th, Monday. — Embarked late, as I wished Mr. FRAZER to overtake me, but came on very well. His canoes overtook us at dinner, at the grand encampment below Lake Pepin. We made the sandy peninsula on the east, at the entrance of Lake Pepin, by dusk ; passed the Sauteaux river,* on the east, at the entrance of the lake. After sup- per, the wind being fair, we put off, with the intention to sail across. My interpreter (ROSSEAU) telling me, that he had passed the lake twenty times, but never once in the day; giving as a reason, that the wind frequently rose and- de- tained them by day in the lake. But I believe the traders' true reason, generally is, their fears of the Sauteurs, as they have made several strokes of war, at the mouth of this river, never distinguishing between the Sioux and their traders. However, the wind serving, I was induced to go on ; and accordingly we sailed. My boat bringing up the rear, for I had put the sail of my big boat on my batteaux, and a mast of twenty-two feet. Mr. FRAZER embarked on my boat. At first the breeze was very gentle, and we sailed with our violins and other music playing ; but the sky af- terwards became cloudy, and quite a gale arose. My boat ploughed the swells, sometimes almost bow under. When

*Now known as the ChippewaRiver.

PIKE'S EXPLORATIONS IN MINNESOTA. 375

we came to the Traverse, which is opposite Point De Sable, we thought it most advisable, the lake being very much disturbed and the gale increasing, to take harbor in a bay on the east. One of the canoes, and my boat, came in very well, and together ; but having made a fire on the point to give notice to our boats in the rear, they both ran on the bar before they doubled it, and were near foundering ; but by jumping into the lake we brought them into a safe harbor. Distance forty miles.

SEPT. 17th, Tuesday. — Although there was every appear- ance of a very severe storm, we embarked at half past 6 o'clock, the wind fair, but before we had all hoisted sail, those in front had struck theirs. The wind came on hard ahead. The sky became inflamed and the lightning seemed to roll down the sides -of the hills, which bordered the shore of the lake. The storm in all its grandeur, majesty, and horror, burst upon us, in the Traverse, while making to Point De Sable ; and it required no moderate exertion to weather the point and get to the windward side of it. There we found Mr. CAMERON,* who had sailed from the prairie on the 5th ; he had three bark and one wooden canoes, with him. He had been laying here two days ; his canoes unloaded and turned up for the habitation of his men ; his tents pitched, and living in all the ease of an In- dian trader. He appeared to be a man of tolerable infor- mation, but rather indolent in his habits ; a Scotchman by

* [MURDOCH CAMERON was a Scotchman by birth. He had a trading post at a very early day on Lac-qui-parle, and accumulated considerable means in the fur traffic. He is described as "sagacious, shrewd, and daring." He died in 1811, Avhile on a canoe trip down the river, and was buried on a bluff near Lac-qui-parle, the spot being known to this day as "CAMERON'S grave." One of CAMERON'S voyageurs, a daring and athletic French half-breed, called MILOR, was with him when he died, and buried him MILOR af'tewards lived at Mendota and was employed by Hon. H. H. SIBLEY as a voy- ageur. He acted as guide to FEATHERSTONHATJGH, who relates in his "Canoe Voyage up the Minnay Sotor," several interesting anecdotes of CAMERON and old MILOR. The latter died about a dozen years since, at Mendota, after a long life full of adventure and daring exploits. W.]

376 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

birth, but an Englishman by prejudice. He had with him a very handsome young man, by the name of JOHN RUDSELL, and also his own son, a lad of fifteen. The storm continuing, we remained all day. I was shown a point of rocks from which a Sioux woman cast herself* and was dashed into a thousand pieces, on the rocks below. She had been in- formed, that her friends intended matching her to a man she despised; and having refused her the man she had chosen, she ascended the hill, singing her death song ; and before they could overtake her, and obviate her purpose, she took the lover's leap ! and ended her troubles with her life. A wonderful display of sentiment in a savage. Dis- tance 3 miles.

SEPT. 18th, Wednesday. — Embarked after breakfast. Mr. CAMERON, with his boats came on with me. Crossed the lake, sounded it, and took an observation at the upper end. I embarked in one of his canoes, and we came up to Canoe Eiver, where there was a small band of Sioux, under the command of RED WING, the second war chief in the nation. He made me a speech and presented a pipe, pouch, and buf- falo skin. He appeared to be a man of sense, and promised to accompany me to St. Peters ; he saluted me and had it re- turned. I made him a small present. We encamped on the end of the Island, and although not more than 11 o'clock, were obliged to stay all night. Distance 18 miles.

SEPT. 19th, Thursday. — Embarked early; dined at St. Croix River. Messrs. FRAZER and CAMERON, having some business to do with the savages, we left them at the encamp- ment ; but they promised to overtake me, though they were obliged to travel until 12 o'clock at night. Fired a blunderbuss for them at Tattoo. The chain of my watch became unhooked, by lending her to my guard; this was ft very serious misfortune.

*[This is the promontory or cliff now known ae "Maiden's Rook."

PIKE'S EXPLORATIONS IN MINNESOTA. 377

SEPT. 21st, Saturday. — Embarked at a reasonable hour, breakfasted at the Sioux village, on the east side.* It con- sists of eleven lodges, and is situated at the head of an island just below a ledge of rocks. The village was evacu- ated at this time, all the Indians having gone out to the lands to gather fols avoin [wild rice]. About two miles above, saw three bears swimming over the river, but at too great a distance for us to have killed them ; they made the shore before I could come up with them. Passed a camp of Sioux, of four lodges, in which I saw only one man, whose name was BLACK SOLDIER. The garrulity of the women astonished me, for at the other camps they never opened their lips ; but here they flocked round us, with all their tongues going at the same time ; the cause of this freedom must have been the absence of their lords and masters. Passed the encampment of Mr. FERREBAULT,| who had

* [This is the spot now called " Fig's Eye.1' At the time mentioned, the Kaposia, or LITTLK CROW'S village, was on the east side of the river. — W.]

t[JEAN BAPTISTE FARIBACLT was born at Bertheo, L. C., in 1773, and died at Fari- bault, Minn,, August 20, 1860, aged 77 years. At the time of his death he was the old- est white resident of what is now Minnesota.

His father, BARTHOLOMEW P., was born in Paris and educated as a lawyer. He bo- came eminent in his profession. He emigrated to Canada in 1754, and held office until the downfall of the French Dominion in America in 17S9. JEAN BAPTISTE was the youngest of his ten children. He acquired a good education when young. At the age of 17 he entered mercantile pursuits at Quebec, and remained until 1796, wheu he yielded to his adventurous and active disposition and entered the Indian trade, engag- ing in JOHN JACOB ASTOR'S " Northwestern Fur Company," as an agent. He was sent to Mackinac first, and soon after came to the Upper Mississippi region. Before the close of the last century he had crossed the Mississippi River, and after a brief stay at a post near the mouth of Des Moines River, became a resident of what is now Minne- sota. He established a trading post on an island at the mouth of the Minnesota River, and carried on a trade with the Indians for about half a century, the last forty years on his own account, a portion of the lime at Prairie du Chien. He married in 1814 a half-breed daughter of Maj. HANSE, then Superintendent of Indian Affairs, by whom he had eight children. His oldest son, ALEX. FARIBAULT, founded the flourish- ing city of that name. Mr. F. espoused the cause of the U. S. during the war of 1812, and lost many thousand dollars thereby, as well as narrowly escaping with his life on several occasions. He labored all his life to benefit the red man, teach him agricul- ture and the arts of industry, and protect his interests. He had an unbounded influ- ence over them; his advice was never disregarded. He was prominent at all treaties

MINNESOTA HISTOKICAL COLLECTIONS.

n his peroque and had encamped on the west side of the river, about three miles below St. Peters. We made our encampment on the N..E. point of the big island,! opposite to St. Peters. The Mississippi became so very narrow this day, that I once crossed in my batteaux with forty strokes of my oars. The water of the Mississippi, since we passed Lake Pepin, has been remarkably red ; and where it is deep appears as black as ink. The waters of the St. Croix and St. Peters appear Hue and clear, for a considerable distance below their confluence. I observe a white flag on shore to-day, and on landing discovered it to be white silk ; it was suspended over a scaffold, on which were laid four dead bodies, two enclosed in boards and two in bark. They were wrapped up in blankets, w7hich appeared to be quite new. They were the bodies, I was informed, of two Sioux women, (who had lived with two Frenchmen,) one of their children, and some other relative ; two of whom died at St. Peters and two at St. Croix, but were brought here, to be deposited upon this scaifold together. This is the manner of the Sioux burial, when persons die a natural death ; but when they are killed, they suffer them to lay unburied. This circum- stance brought to my recollection the bones of a man I found on the hills below the St. Croix ; the jaw bone I brought on board. He must have been killed on that spot. Distance twenty-four miles.

SEPT. 22d, Sunday. — Employed in the morning, measur- ing the river ; about three o'clock Mr. FRAZER and his pero- ques arrived, and in three hours after, the PETIT CORBEAU, at the head of his band, arrived with one hundred and fifty warriors. They ascended the hill, in the point between the

and councils, and rendered the U. S. many valuable services. " In person," says a newspaper sketch of him, " he was below medium height, ot prepossessing appearance, of much dignity, frankness, affability and urbanity of manner." He will be remem- bered by the early settlers of the Territory, all of whom knew him, with respect .— W.] t [This island has since been known as Pike's Island.— W.]

379

Mississippi and St. Peters, and gave us a salute, a la mode savage, with balls ; after which we settled the affairs for the council the next day. Mr. FRAZER and myself took a bark canoe, and went up to the village, in order to see Mr. CAM- ERON. We ascended the St. Peters to the village and found his camp. (No current in the river.) He engaged to be at the council the next day, and promised to let me have his barge. The Sioux had marched on a war excursion ; but hearing (by express) of my arrival, they returned by land. We were treated very hospitably, and hallooed after to go into every lodge, to eat. Returned to our camp about 11 o'clock, and found the Sioux and my men peaceably en- camped.

SEPT. 23d, JUbnday. — Prepared for the council, which we commenced about twelve o'clock. I had a bower, or shade, made of my sails, on the beach, into which only my gentle- men (the traders) and the chiefs entered. I then addressed them in a speech, which, though long and touching on many points, had for its principal object the obtaining of a grant of land at this place, (the Falls of St. Anthony), and at St. Croix, and the making peace between them and the Chippe- ways. I was replied to by FILS DE PENICHON, LE PETIT CORBEAU, and L' ORIGINAL LEVE. They gave me the land required, about one hundred thousand acres, (equal to $200,000 in value,) and promised me a safe passport for myself and the chiefs I might bring down ; but spoke doubt- fully with respect to the peace. I gave them presents to the amount of about $200, and as soon as the council was over, I allowed the traders to present them with some liquor, which, with what I gave, was equal to 60 gallons. In half an hour they were all embarked for their respective villages.

The chiefs in the council* were : LE PETIT CORBEAU, he

*[ln an article in the St. Paul Daily Democrat, May 4, 1854, we find the following in-

380 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

signed the grant ; LE FILS DE PINICHON, he also signed ; LE GRAND PARTISAN, L'ORIGINAL LEVE, LA DEMI DOUZAINE, LB

teresting sketches (written by Dr. THOMAS FOSTER, now of Duluth), of the chiefs and soldiers mentioned by PIKE as taking part in his council :

"But two chiefs appear to have signed the Grant; that is to say, LE PETIT CORBEAU, who is identified as the grandfather of the present chief, LITTLE CROW. He was the Great Crow of all. His Dakota name was TCHAH-TAN-WAH KOO-WAH-MAH-NE, or "The Hawk that chases Walking/1 The other signing chief is called LE FILS DB PINICHON — i. e., " The Son of PINICHON." This chief is identified as the father of the deceased chief, Goon ROAD, whom most of our citizens must well recollect as the head chief of the band or village at Oak Grove, nine miles up the Minnesota above Fort Snelling. His Indian name is given by PIKE as WYH-GENAGE, but as appended to the treaty, is spelled WAY-AOO-ENAGEE. Properly, it should be written WAH-YAH-GAH-NAH-ZHEEN, or, "He sees standing up." The reason that these two chiefs only signed the grant, is probably because their bands claimed exclusive possession, and were conceded by the others to have the immediate right to dispose of the lands embraced by the mili- tary reserve.

It is naturally suggested by such an inquiry as this, who PINICHON was, that to be A son of his should be regarded a sufficiently distinctive and remarkable cognomen, PINCHON, or as the French generally wrote it, PINICHON, was the grandfather of GOOD ROAD, and in hi$ tribe the most noted chief of the Eastern Sioux. The name con- ferred upon the chief by the Indians was TAH-KOO-KEE-PAYSH-NE, or " What is he afraid of'?'" equivalent in sense to the affirmative English expression of " He's afraid of nothing.'1 The French corrupted this to PINCHON, in English. Pinneshaw. It is not the least curious concerning this philological corruption, that the Indians hare since adopted the word "pinneshaw," and use it in colloquial intercourse to express the superlative idea of a very brave and fearless man. It is the highest praise for them to say of a warrior, that he is a pinueshaw.

LE GRAND PARTISAN is next mentioned on the list as present at the council, though not a signer. He was probably no more than a principal soldier, certainly not a chief.

LE DEMI DOUZEN, who is put down as in attendance, was the father of the present •chief LITTLE Six, and the chief of a lar^e village of Sioux about twenty-eight miles up the Minnesota, three or four miles this side of the modern Indian village of Shak- pay. The father was called SHAH KPAY, "The Six"' (or Half-dozen) ; the son, with •whom all are acquainted, was called SHAH-KpAY-ctow, or "Little Six.'1 He is the third chief of his family and name, or Six III.

LE BOCCASSE, another of those in council, should be written BRAS CASSE, or -"Broken Arm." His Indian name was, I believe, Wah kan-tah-pay, and as late as 1825, he was still living, at his small village of Wahpaykootans, on a lake near the Tdinnesota, some five or six miles below Prairie La Fleche, now Le Sueur.

The last named on the list is LE-BOEUF-QJJE MARCHE, the "Walking Buffalo,1' or Tah-taw-kah-mah-nee. He was a kind of sub-chief of old WABASHAW (who was not present, being also called RED WING; and it is from him that the village at the head of Lake Pepin derives its name. He was the father of WAH-KOO-TAY, the present old chieftain of the Red Wing band.

I have omitted till the last, mention of LE ORIGINAL LEVE, who,next to LITTLE CROW, appears to have been the most prominent individual present. PIKE calls him "my friend," and seems to have made him some marked presents — indeed, the Indian rela-

381

BOUCASSE, and LE BOEUF-QUI-MARCHE. It was somewhat dif- ficult to get them to sign the grant, as they conceived their word of honor should be taken without any mark. But I convinced them it was not on their account, but my own, I wished for their signatures.

COPY OF THE AGREEMENT BETWEEN THE CHIEFS OF THE SIOUX, AND LIEUT. Z. M. PIKE.

Whereas, at a conference held between the United States of America and the Sioux Nation of Indians, Lieut. Z. M. PIKE of the Army of the United States, and the chiefs and the warriors of said tribe, have agreed

tionship and tie of comradeship was probably adopted between them. PIKE says he "was a war chief, and that he gave him, my [his] lather's tomahawk,11 though what he means by that, passes my comprehension. In the table of Indian chiefs, etc., in the appendix to PIKE'S Journal, he is set down as belonging to the Medaywakant'wans; his Indian name is given as TAHAMIE, his French as I/ORIGINAL, LEVE, and his English as the RISING MOOSE, which is stated to be literally translated.*

I believe this war chief to be identical with the aged Indian, with whom most of the old settlors are familiar, by the name of TAH-MAH-HAW, whose characteristics are one eye, and his always wearing a stove-pipe hat. He his remarkable among the Sioux — and it is his greatest pride and boast — that he is the only American in his tribe. This is explained by the fact, that in the war with Great. Britain, in 1812, when the rest of the Sioux sided with the British, and when LITTLE CROW, with JOSEPH RENVILLE, led on a war party to join the British army against us, he refused to participate on that side, and joined the Americans at St. Louis, where he was employed by Gen. CLARKE, in the American service. He has now in his possession, and carefully keeps, a commis- sion from Gen. CLARKE, dated in 1814, as a chief of the Sioux— the commission says of the Red Wing band of Indians— which was originally part of WABASHAW'S band. If he is the same person as L'ORIGINAL LEVE, then PIKE and his Indian comrade fought in the same ranks, and the friendship the latter imbibed at PIKE'S visit, for the Americans stood the test of time and vicissitudes. He deserves on this account to receive from the government authorities, special and marked attention. JOSEPH MOJOLT, an old Canadian of Point Prescott, told me that TAMAHAW was called by the voyageurs, the "Old Priest," because he was a great talker on all occasions. In- Sioux, Tamwamda means to talk earnestly; to vociferate; and thisHsears some re- semblance to his Indian name as at present pronounced. My friend, Mr. E. A. C. HATCH informs me, when he traded with the Winnebagoes and with the Sioux of Wa- bashaw band, he knew him, and has seen his commission from General CLARKE. The Winnebagoes, who were acquainted with him, translated his name to mean the pike fish, and therefore called him NAZEEKAH— though tah-mah-hay and not tah-mah-haw, is the word for "pike" in the Dakotah tongue. The other Sioux who, like Tamahaw j oined the Americans in 1812, was HAY-PEE-DAN who belonged to WAKOOTAY'S band. He is now deceased."]

*[PiKE, in his work, and Dr. POSTER, both spell the name L'Original. This is, to be exact, not strictly correct. The French word for Elk, or Moose, is "Orignal."— W.J.

382 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

to the following articles, which, when ratified and approved of by the proper authority, shall be binding on both parties :

ART. 1. That the Sioux Nation grant unto the United States, for the purpose of establishment of military posts, nine miles square, at the mouth of the St. Croix, * also from below the confluence of the Missis- sippi and St. Peters, up the Mississippi, to include the Falls of St. An- thony, extending nine miles on each side of the river, that the Sioux Na- tion grants to the United States the full sovereignty and power over said district forever.

ART. 2. That, in consideration of the above grants, the United States shall pay (filled up by the Senate with 2,000 dollars).

ART. 3. The United States promise, on their part, to permit the Sioux to pass and re-pass, hunt, or make other use of the said districts as they have formerly done, without any other exception than those specified in article first.

In testimony whereof, we, the undersigned, have hereunto set our hands and seals, at the mouth of the River St. Peters, on the 23d day of September, 1805.

Z. M. PIKE, [L, S.j

1st Lieut. , and agent at the above conference.

his

LE PETIT CORBEAU, X [L. S.]

mark his WAY AGO ENAGEE, X [L. S.]

mark

SEPT. 25th, Tuesday. — In the morning I discovered my flag was missing from off my boat. Being in doubt whether it had been stolen by the Indians, or had fallen overboard and floated away, I sent for my friend, the Original Leve, and sufficiently evinced to him, by the vehemence of my action, by the immediate punishment of my guard, (having inflicted on one of them corporeal punishment) and by send- ing down the shore three miles in search of it, how much I was displeased, that such a thing should have occurred. I sent a flag and two carrots of tobacco, by a Mr. CAMERON, to the Sioux, at the head of the St. Peters ; made a small draft

* My demand was one league below; their reply was "from below." I imagine (without iniquity) they maybe made to agree.

383

of the position at this place ; sent up the boat I got from Mr. FISHEE, to the village of St. Peters, and exchanged her for a barge with a Mr. DUNCAN ; my men returned with the barge about sun down. She was a fine light thing; eight men were able to carry her. Employed all day in writing. SEPT. 25th, Wednesday, — I was awakened out of my bed by LE PETIT COKBEAU, (head chief) who came up from his village, to see if we were all killed, or if any accident, had happened to us ; this was in consequence of their hav- ing found my flag floating two or three miles below their village, (fifteen miles hence) from which they concluded that some affray had taken place, and that it had been thrown overboard. Although I considered this an unfortu- nate accident for me, I was exceedingly happy at its effect ; for it was the occasion of preventing much blood- shed among the savages. A chief called the OUTARD BLANCHE, had his lip cut off, and had come to the PETIT CORBEAU, and told him, "that his face was his looking glass, that it was spoiled, and that he was determined on revenge." The parties were charging their guns, and preparing for action, when lo ! the flag appeared ; like a messenger of peace, sent to prevent their bloody purposes. They were all astonished to see it ; the staff was broke. When the PETIT COEBEAU arose and spoke to this effect : "That a thing so sacred, had not been taken from my boat, without violence ; that it would be proper for them, to hush all private animosities, until they had revenged the cause of their eldest brother ; that he would immediately go up to St. Peters, to know what dogs had done that thing; in order to take steps to get satisfaction of those, who had done the mischief." They all listened to this reasoning and he imme- diately had the flag put out to dry, and embarked for my camp. I was much concerned to hear of the blood likely to have been shed, and gave him five yards of blue stroud,

384 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

three yards of calico, one handkerchief, one carrot of tobac- co, and one knife, in order to make peace among his people. He promised to send my flag by land to the Falls, and make the peace with OUTARD BLANCHE. Mr. FRAZER went up to- the village, and we embarked late, and encamped at the foot of the rapids. In many places, I could scarce throw a stone over the river. Distance three miles.

SEPT. 26th, Thursday. — Embarked at the usual hour, and after much labor in passing through the rapids, arrived at the foot of the Falls about three or four o'clock ; unloaded my boat, and had the principal part of her cargo carried over the portage. With the other boat however full loaded, they were not able to get over the last shoot, and en- camped about six hundred yards below, I pitched iny tent and encamped above the shoot. The rapids mentioned in this day's march, might properly be called a continuation of the falls of St. Anthony, for they are equally entitled to this appellation, with the falls of the Delaware and Susque- hanna. Killed one deer. Distance nine miles.

SEPT. 27th, Friday. — Brought over the residue of my loading this morning. Two men arrived, from Mr. FRAZER, on St. Peters, for my dispatches. This business, closing and sealing, appeared like a last adieu to the civilized world. Sent a large packet to the general, and a letter to Mrs. PIKE, with a short note to Mr. FRAZER. Two young- Indians brought my flag across by land, who arrived yester- day, just as we came in sight of the Fall. I made them a present for their punctuality and expedition, and the dan- ger they were exposed to from the journey. Carried our boats out of the river, as far as the bottom of the hill.

SEPT, 28th, Saturday. — Brought my barge over, and put her in the river above the Falls. While we were engaged with her three-fourths miles from camp,severi Indians painted black appeared on the heights. We had left our guns at the

PIKE'S EXPLORATIONS IN MINNESOTA. 385

camp and were entirely defenceless. It occurred to me that they were the small party of Sioux who were obstinate, and would go to war, when the other party of the bands came in; these they proved to be ; they were better armed than any I had ever seen ; having guns, bows, arrows, clubs, spears, and some of them even a case of pistols. I was at that time giving my men a dram ; and giving the cup of liquor to the first, he drank it off'; but I was more cautious with the re- mainder. I sent my interpreter to camp with them, to wait my coming ; wishing to purchase one of their war clubs, it being made of elk horn, and decorated with inlaid work. This and a set of bows and arrows, I wished to get as a curiosity. But the liquor I had given him, began to oper- ate, he came back for me, but refusing to go till I brought my boat, he returned, and (I suppose being offended) bor- rowed a canoe and crossed the river. In the afternoon got the other boat near the top of the hill, when the props gave way, and she slid all the way down to the bottom, but fortu- nately without injuring any person. It raining very hard, we left her. Killed one goose and a racoon.

SEPT. 29th, Sunday. — I killed a remarkaby large racoon. Got our large boat over the portage, and put her in the river, at the upper landing; this night the men gave suffi- cient proof of their fatigue, by throwing themselves down to sleep, preferring rest to supper. This day I had but fifteen men out of twenty-two ; the others were sick. This voyage could have been performed with great convenience, if we had taken our departure in June. But the proper •time would be to leave the Illinois as soon as the ice would permit, when the river would be of a good height.

SEPT. 30th, Monday. — Loaded my boat, moved over and encamped on the Island. The large boats loading likewise, we went over and put on board. In the mean time, I took a survey of the Falls, Portage, &c. If it be possible to pass

24:

386 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

the Falls in high water, of which I am doubtful, it must be on the east side, about thirty jards from shore; as there are three layer of rocks, one below the other. The pitch off of either, is not more than five feet; but of this I can say more on my return.*

OCT. 4th, Friday. — Rained in the morning, but the wind serving, we embarked, although extremely raw and cold. Opposite to the mouth of Crow River we found a bark canoe, cut to pieces with tomahawks, and the paddles bro- ken on shore ; a short distance higher up we saw five more ; and continued to see the wrecks until we found eight. From the form of the canoes, my interpreter pronounced them to be Sioux ; and some broken arrows to be the Sau- teurs. The paddles were also marked with the Indian sign of men and women killed. From all these circumstances, we drew this inference, that the canoes had been the ves- sels of a party of Sioux, who had been attacked and all killed or taken by the Sauteurs. Time may develop this transaction. My interpreter was much alarmed, assuring me that it was probable that at our first rencounter with the Chippeways, they would take us for Sioux traders, and fire on us before we could come to an explanation ; that they had murdered three Frenchmen, whom they found on the shore about this time last spring ; but notwithstanding his information, I was on shore all the afternoon in pursuit of elk. Caught a curious little animal on the prairie, which my Frenchman termed a prairie mole, but it is very differ- ent from the mole of the States. Distance sixteen miles.

OCT. 5th, Saturday. — Hard water and ripples all day. Passed several old Sioux encampments, all fortified. Found five litters, in which sick or wounded men had been carried. At this place a hard battle was fought between the Sioux and Sauteurs in the year 1800. Distance eleven miles.

*It is never possible, as I ascertained on my return.

EXPLORATIONS IN MINNESOTA. 38Y

OCT. 10th, Thursday. — Came to large islands and strong water early in the morning. Passed the place at which Mr. REINVILLE and Mons. PERLIER, wintered in 1797; passed a cluster of Islands, more than twenty in the course of four miles ; these I called Beaver Islands, from the im- mense sign of those animals, for they have dams on every island and roads from them every two or three rod. I would here attempt a description of this wonderful animal, and its admirable system of architecture, was not the sub- ject already exhausted, by the numerous travelers who have written on this subject. Encamped at the foot of the Grand Sauk Rapids. Distance sixteen and a half miles.

OCT. llth, Friday. — Both boats passed the worst of the rapids, by eleven o'clock, but we were obliged to wade and lift them over rocks, where there was not a foot of water, when at times the next step would be in the water over our heads. In consequence of this, our boats were frequently in imminent danger of being bilged on the rocks. About five miles above the rapids, our large boat was discovered to leak so fast, as to render it necessary to unload her, which we did. Stopped the leak, and reloaded. Near a war encampment, I found a piece of buckskin and a piece of scarlet cloth, suspended by the limb of a tree ; this I supposed to be a sacrifice to Matcho Manitou, to render their enterprise successful ; but I took the liberty of inva- ding the rights of his diabolical majesty, by treating them, as the priests of old have often done, that is, converting sacrifices to my own use. Distance eight miles.

OCT. 16th, Wednesday. — When we arose in the morning, found that snow had fallen during the night; the ground was covered and it continued to snow. This indeed was but poor encouragement for attacking the rapids, in which we were certain to wade to our necks. I was determined, however, if possible to make la riviere de Corbeau, the

388 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

highest point ever made by traders in their bark canoes- We embarked, and after four hours work became so be- numbed with cold that our limbs were perfectly useless. We put to shore on the opposite side of the river, about two-thirds of the way up the rapids. Built a large fire ; and then discovered that our boats were nearly half full of water ; both having sprung large leaks so as to oblige me to keep three hands bailing. My sergeant (KENNERMAN) one of the stoutest men I ever knew, broke a blood-ves- sel and vomited nearly two quarts of blood. One of my corporals (BRADLEY) also evacuated nearly a pint of blood, when he Attempted to void his urine. These unhappy cir- cumstances, in addition to the inability of four other men whom we were obliged to leave on shore ; convinced me, that if I had no regard for my own health and constitution, I should have some for those poor fellows, who were killing themselves to obey my orders. After we had breakfasted and refreshed ourselves, we went down to our boats on the rocks, where I was obliged to leave them. I then informed my men that we would return to the camp and there leave some of the party and our large boats. This information was pleasing, and the attempt to reach the camp soon accomplished. My reasons for this step have partly been already stated. The necessity of unloading and refitting my boats, the beauty and convenience of the spot for build- ing huts, the fine pine trees for peroques, and the quantity of game, were additional inducements. We immediately unloaded our boats and secured their cargoes. In the evening I went out upon a small but beautiful creek, which empties into the Falls, for the purpose of selecting pine trees to make canoes. Saw five deer, and killed one buck weighing one hundred and thirty-seven pounds. By my leaving men at this place, and from the great quantities of game in its vicinity, I was ensured plenty of provision

380

for my return voyage. In the party left behind was one hunter, to be continually employed, who would keep our stock of salt provisions good. Distance two-hundred and thirty -three and and a half miles above the Falls of St. Anthony.

OCT. 30th, Wednesday. — My men labored as usual. Nothing extraordinary.

OCT. 31st, Thursday. — Enclosed my little work completely with pickets. Hauled up my two boats arid turned them over on each side of the gateways ; by which means a defence was made to the river, and had it not been for various political reasons, I would have laughed at the attack of eight hundred or a thousand savages, if all my party were within. For except accidents, it would only have afforded amusement, the Indians having no idea of taking a place by storm. Found myself powerfully attacked with the fantastics of the brain, called ennui, at the men- tion of which I had hitherto scoffed ; but my books being packed up, I was like a person entranced, and could easily conceive why so many persons who have been confined to remote places, acquired the habit of drinking to excess, and many other vicious practices, which have been adopted merely to pass time.

Nov. 24th, Sunday. — Took MILLER and BOLEY and went in pursuit of buffalo. Came up with some about ten o'clock. In the afternoon wounded one. Pursued them until night, and encamped on the side of a swamp. Thawing.

Nov. 25th, Monday. — Commenced again the pursuit of the buffalo, and continued till eleven o'clock, when I gave up the chase. Arrived at the camp about sun down, hun- gry and weary, having eat nothing since we left it. My rifle was too small a ball to kill buffalo ; the balls should not be more than thirty to the pound ; an ounce ball would be still preferable, and the animal should be hunted on horse-

390 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

back. I think that, in the prairies of this country, the bow and arrow could be used to more advantage than the gun ; for you might ride immediately along side, and strike them where you pleased, leaving them 10 proceed after others. Thawing.

Nov. 26th, Tuesday. — Proceeded up the river. The ice is getting very rotten, the men fell through several times. Thawing. Distance five miles.

Nov. 27th, Wednesday. — Took one man and marched to the post. Found all well. My hunter, BRADLEY, had killed eleven deer since my departure. Sent all the men down to help the party up. They returned, accompanied by two Indians, who informed me they were two men of a band, who resided on Lake Superior, called the Fols Avoins, but spoke the language of the Chippewas. They informed me that Mr. DICKSON'S* and the other trading houses, were es- tablished about sixty miles below; that there were seventy lodges of the Sioux on the Mississippi. All my men arrived at the post. We brought from our camp below the balance of seventeen deer and two elks.

*[Col. ROBERT DICKSON was a native of England. He commenced trading with the Sioux as early as the year 1790. At the time of PIKE'S visit, DICKSON seems to have had a trading post near Sauk Rapids, and a partner named GRANT, who kept another post at Lower Red Cedar Lake. PIKE speaks of him as "a gentleman of general commercial knowledge, and possessing much geographical information of the western country, of open, frank manners," and mentions receiving valuable aid and information from him. In the Wis. Hist. Collections (vol. 3, page 280,) he is described as "a large man, of full face, tall and commanding." Five years after PIKE'S visit, he espoused the British cause and took a prominent part in encouraging the western tribes in hostility against the Americans. Yet he is said to have been very humane to American prisoners, res- cuing many from the Indians,and restraining the latter from barbarities and cold blood- ed massacres. After the war, DICKSON, some accounts say, did not resume trade with the Sioux, but he did at least, live at Lake Travers as late as 1817, and was charged with alienating the Sioux from the United States, in complicity with Lord SELKIRK, who was then establishing his colon}' on Red River. He was soon after arrested near what is now St. Paul, and taken to St. Louis. He was probably soon released, however, and found his way back to Queenstown in Canada, were he died. DICKSON had a Sioux wife and four half breed children. One of his grand-children was wife of JOSEPH LAFRAJYT- I.OISE, a well known trader at Lac-qui-parle. — W.]

PIKE'S EXPLORATIONS IN MINNESOTA. 391

Nov. 28th, Thursday. — The Indians departed much pleas- ed with their reception. I dispatched corporal MEEK and one private down to DICKSON with a letter, which would at least have the effect of attaching the most powerful tribe in this quarter to my interest.

Nov. 29th, Friday. — A Sioux (the son of a warrior called the KILLEUR ROUGE, of the Gens des feuilles) and a Fols Avoin came to the post. He said that having struck our trail below, and finding some to be shoe tracks, he conceiv- ed it to be the establishment of some traders, took it, and came to the spot. He informed me that Mr. DICKSON had told the Sioux "that they might hunt now where they pleased as I had gone ahead and would cause the Chippewas where- ever I met them, to treat them with friendship ; that I had barred up the mouth of the St. Peters, so that no liquor could ascend the river ; but that, if they came on the Mis- sissippi, they should have what liquor they wanted : — also, that I was on the river and had a great deal of merchandise to give them in presents." This information of Mr. DICKSON to the Indians seemed to have self-interest and envy for its motives ; for, by the idea of having prevented liquor from going up the St. Peters, he gave the Indians to understand that it was a regulation of my own, and not a law of the United States ; and by assuring them he would sell to them on the Mississippi, he drew all the Indians from the traders on the St. Peters, who had adhered to the restriction of not selling liquor, and should any of them be killed, the blame would all lie on me, as he had (without authority) assured them that they might hunt in security. I took care to give the young chief a full explanation of my ideas on the above. He remained all night. Killed two deer.

DEC. 2d, Monday. — Sparks arrived from the party below and informed me that they could not kill any game, but had started up with the little peroque ; also,

392 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

that Mr. DICKSON and a Frenchman had passed my detach- ment about three hours before. He left them on their march to the post. SPARKS arrived about ten o'clock at night.

DEC. 3d, Tuesday. — Mr. DICKSON, with one engagee and a young Indian, arrived at the fort. I received him with every politeness in my power, and after a serious con- versation with him on the subject of the information given me on the 29th ult, was induced to believe it, in part, incor- rect. He assured me that no liquor was sold by him, nor by any houses under his direction. He gave much useful infor- mation relative to my future route, which gave me great en- couragement as to the certainty of my accomplishing the object of my voyage, to the fullest extent. He seemed to be a gentleman of general commercial knowledge, and pos- sessing much geographical information of the Western country, of open, frank, manners. He gave me many assur- ances of his good wishes for the prosperity of my undertak- ing.

DEC. 4th, Wednesday. — My men arrived with one canoe only. Calculated on returning them two days after.

DEC. 5th, Thursday — Mr. DICKSON, with his two men departed for their station, after having furnished me with a letter for a young man of his house, in Lake de Sable, and a carte blanche as to my commands on him. Weather, mild.

DEC. 6th, Friday. — I despatched my men down, to bring up the other peroque with a strong sled on which it was intended to put the canoe about one third, and to let the end drag on the ice. Three families of the Fols Avoins arrived and encamped near the fort; also, one Sioux, who pretended to have been sent to me, from the Gens des Fuil- les to inform me that the Yanctongs and Sussitongs (two bands of Sioux from the head of the St. Peters and the Mis- souri, and the most savage of them) had commenced the

393

war dance and would depart in a few days, in which case he conceived it would be advisable for the Fols Avoins to keep close under my protection ; that making a stroke on the Chippewas would tend to injure the grand object of my voyage, &c., &c. Some reasons induced me to believe he was a self-created envoy ; however, I offered to pay him, or any other young Sioux, who would go to those bands and carry my word. He promised to make known my wishes upon his return. My men returned in the evening without my canoe, having been so unfortunate as to split her in carrying her over the rough hilly ice in the ripples below. So many disappointments almost wearied out my patience ; but, notwithstanding, I intended to embark by land and water in a few days.

DEC. 9th, Monday. — Prepared to embark. Expecting the Sioux, I had two large kettles of soup made for them. Had a shooting match with four prizes. The Sioux did not arrive, and we eat the soup ourselves. Crossed the river and encamped above the rapids. Wind changed and it grew cold.

DEC. 10th, Tuesday. — After arranging our sleds * and peroque, commenced our march. The sleds on the prairie and the peroque towed by three men. Found it extremely difficult to get along, the snow being melted off the prairie in spots. The men who had the canoe were obliged to wade and drag her over the rocks in many places. Shot the only deer I saw. It fell three times, and after made its escape. This was a great disappointment, for upon the game we took now we depended for our subsistence. This evening disclosed to my men the real danger they had to encounter. Distance five miles.

DEC. 14th, Saturday. — We departed from our encamp-

* My sleds were such as are frequently seen about farmers' yards, calculated to hold two barrels, or four hundred weight, in which two men were geared abreast.

394: MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

ment at the usual hour, but had not advanced one mile when the foremost sled, which happened unfortunately to carry my baggage and ammunition, fell into the river. We were all in the river up to our middles, in recovering the things. Halted and made a fire. Came on to where the river was frozen over. Stopped and encamped on the west shore, in a pine wood. Upon examining my things, found all my baggage wet, and some of my books materially in- jured ; but a still greater injury was that all of my car- tridges, and four pounds of double battle Sussex powder for my own use,was destroyed. Fortunately my kegs of powder were preserved dry, and some bottles of common glazed powder, which were so tightly corked, as not to admit water. Had this not been the case, my voyage must neces- sarily have been terminated, for we could not have subsisted without ammunition. During the time of our misfortune, two Fols Avoin Indians came to us, one of whom was at my stockade, on the 29th ult., in company with the Sioux. I signified to them by signs the place of our intended en- campment, and invited them to come and encamp with us. They left me, and both arrived at my camp in the evening, having each a deer which they presented me ; I gave them my canoe, to keep until spring ; and in the morning at part- ing made them a small present. Sat up until three o'clock P. M., drying and assorting my ammunition, baggage, &c. Killed two deer. Distance four miles.

DEC. 21st, Saturday. — BRADLEY and my self went on ahead, and overtook my interpreter, who had left camp very early in hopes that he would be able to see the river De Corbeau, where he had twice wintered. He was immediately oppo- site to a large island, which he supposed to have great re- semblance to an island opposite the mouth of the above river ; but finally he concluded it was not the island, and returned to camp. But this was actually the river, as we

PIKE'S EXPLORATIONS IN MINNESOTA. 395

discovered when we got to the head of the island from which we could see the rivers entrance. This fact exposes the ignorance and inattention of the French and traders, and with the exception of a few intelligent men, what little confidence is to be placed on their information. We ascend- ed the Mississippi about five miles above the confluence ; found it frozen ; but in many places, not more than one hundred yards over, mild and still. Indeed, all the appear- ance of a small river of a low country. Returned and found my party, having broke sleds, &c., had only made good three miles, while I had marched thirty- five.

DEC. 31st, Tuesday. — Passed Pine River about eleven o'clock. At its mouth there was a Chippeway's encampment of fifteen lodges, this had been occupied in the summer* but is now vacant. By the significations of their marks, we understood that they had marched a party of fifty warriors against the Sioux ; and had. killed four men and four women, which were represented by images carved out of pine or cedar. The four men painted and put in the ground to the middle, leaving above ground those parts which are generally concealed ; by their sides were four painted poles, sharpened at the end to represent the women. Near this were poles with deer skins, plumes, silk handkerchiefs, &c. Also a circular hoop of cedar with something attached, representing a scalp. Near each lodge they had holes dug in the ground, and boughs ready to cover them, as a retreat for their women and children if attacked by the Sioux, &c.

JAN. 1st, 1806, Wednesday. — Passed six very elegant bark canoes, on the bank of the river, which had been laid up by the Chippeways ; also a camp which we conceived to have been evacuated about ten days. My interpreter came after me in a great hurry, conjuring me not to go so far ahead, and assured me that the Chippeways, encountering me without an interpreter, party, or flag, would certainly

396 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

kill me. But notwithstanding this, I went on several miles farther than usual, in order to make any discoveries that were to be made. Made some extra presents for new years day.

JAN. 3d, Friday. — My party marched early, but I returned with Mr. GRANT to his establishment on the Red Oedar Lake, having one corporal with me. When we came i-n sight of his house, I observed the flag of Great Britain flying. I felt indignant and cannot say what my feelings would have excited me to. had he not informed me, that it belonged to the Indians. This was not much more agree- able to me. After explaining to a Chippeway warrior (called CURLY HEAD) the object of my voyage, and receiving his answer, that he would remain tranquil until my return. We eat a good breakfast for the country, departed and overtook my sleds just at dusk. Distance sixteen miles.

JAN. 4th, Saturday, — We made twenty-eight points in the river ; broad, good bottom, and of the usual timber. In the night I was awakened by the cry of the sentinel, calling repeatedly to the men. This immediately aroused me ; at first I seized my arms, but looking round, I saw my tents in flames. The men flew to my assistance and we tore them down but not until they were entirely ruined. This, with the loss of my leggins, mockinsons, socks, &c., which I had hung up to dry, was no trivial misfortune, in such a country, and on such a voyage. But I had reason to thank God that the powder, three small casks of which I had in my tent, did not take fire ; if it had, I must certainly have lost all my baggage, if not my life.

JAN. 8th, Wednesday. — Conceiving that I was at no great distance from Sandy Lake, I left my sleds, and with corporal BRADLEY, took my departure for that place, intend^- ing to send him back the same evening. We walked on very briskly until night, when at length we struck the

397

shore of Lake De Sable, over a branch of which our course lay. The snow having covered the trail made by the Frenchmen who had passed before with the rackets, I was fearful of losing ourselves on the lake ; the consequence of which can only be conceived by those who have been exposed on a lake, or naked plain, a dreary night of Janu- ary, in latitude 47° and the thermometer below 0. Thinking that we could observe the bank of the other shore, we kept a straight course, and sometime after discovered lights, and on our arrival were not a little surprised to find a large stock- ade. The gate being open, we entered and proceeded to the quarters of Mr. GRANT, where we were treated with the utmost hospitality.

JAN. 9th, Thursday. — Marched the corporal early, in order that our men should receive assurance of our safety and success. He carried with him a small keg of spirits, a present from Mr. GRANT. The establishment of this place was formed twelve years since, by the N. W. Company, and was formerly under the charge of a Mr. CHARLES BRUSKY* It has attained at present such regularity, as to permit the superintendent to live tolerably comfortable. Tney have horses they procured from Red River, of the Indians ; raise plenty of Irish potatoes, catch pike, suckers, pickerel and white fish in abundance. They have also beaver, deer and moose ; but the provision they chiefly depend upon, is wild oats, of which they purchase great quantities from the sav- ages, giving at the rate of about one dollar and a half per bushel. But flour, pork, and salt, are almost interdicted to- persons not principals in the trade. Flour sells at half a dollar ; salt a dollar ; pork eighty cents ; sugar half a dol- lar ; coffee , and tea four dollars fifty cents per pound.

The sugar is obtained from the Indians, and is made from the maple tree.

JAN. 15, Wednesday. — Mr. GRANT and myself made the

39S MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

tour of the lake, with two men, whom I had. for attend- ants. Found it to be much larger, than could be imagined at a view. My men sawed stocks for the sleds, which I found it necessary to construct after the manner of the country. On our march, met an Indian coming into the fort ; his countenance expressed no little astonishment, when told who I was and from whence I came ; for the people in this country themselves acknowledge, that the savages hold in greater veneration, the Americans, than any other white people. They say of us, when alluding to war- like achievements, that "we are neither Frenchmen nor Englishmen, but white Indians."

JAN. 18th, Saturday. — Busy in preparing my baggage, <fec., for my departure for Leech Lake, reading, &c.

JANUARY 20th, Monday. — The men, with the sleds, took their departure about two o'clock. Shortly after I followed them. We encamped at the portage between the Missis- sippi and Leech Lake River. Snow fell in the night.

JANUARY 25th, Saturday. — Traveled almost all day through the lands, and found them much better than usual. BOLEY lost the Sioux pipe stem, which I carried along, for the purpose of making peace with the Chippeways ; I sent him back for it, he did not return until 11 o'clock at night. It was very warm ; thawing all day. Distance forty-four points.

JANUARY 26th. Sunday. — I left my party, in order to pro- ceed to a house (or lodge) of Mr. GRANT'S, on the Missis- sippi, where he was to tarry until I overtook him. Took with me my Indian, BOLEY, and some trifling provisions; the Indian and myself marched so fast that we left BOLEY on the route, about eight miles from the lodge. Met Mr. GRANT'S men, on their return to Lake De Sable, having evacuated the house this morning, and Mr. GRANT having marched for Leech Lake. The Indian and I arrived before

PIKE'S EXPLORATIONS IN MINNESOTA. 399

sundown. Passed the night very uncomfortably, having nothing to eat, not much wood, nor any blankets. The Indian slept sound. I cursed his insensibility, being obliged to content myself over a few coals all night. BOLEY did not arrive. In the night the Indian mentioned some- thing about his son, &.C.

FEBRUARY 1st, Saturday. — Left our camp pretty early. Passed a continued train of prairie, and arrived at Lake La Sang Sue, at half-past two o'clock. I will not attempt to de- scribe my feelings, on the accomplishment of my voyage, for this is the main source of the Mississippi. The Lake Winipic branch is navigable, from thence to Red Cedar Lake, for the distance of five leagues, which is the extremity of the navi- gation. Crossed the lake twelve miles to the establishment of the N. "W. Company, where we arrived about three o'clock ; found all the gates locked, but upon knocking, were admit- ted, and received with marked attention and hospitality by Mr. HUGH M'GiLLis. Had a good dish of coffee, biscuit, butter, and cheese for supper.

FEBRUARY 2d, Sunday. — Remained all day within doors. In the evening sent an invitation to Mr. ANDERSON, who was agent of DICKSON, and also for some young Indians, at his house, to come over and breakfast in the morning.

FEBRUARY 7th, Friday. — Remained within doors, my limbs being still very much swelled. Addressed a letter to Mr. M'GiLLis on the subject of the N. W. Company trade in this quarter.

EXTRACT FROM THE LETTER OP LIEUT. PIKE TO HUGH M'GILLIS.

I have therefore to request of you, assurance on the following heads, which setting aside the chicanery of law, as a gentleman, you will strictly adhere to, viz :

That you will make representations to your agents, at your headquar- ters, on Lake Superior, of the quantity of goods wanted the ensuing spring, for your establishments in the territory of the United States, in

400 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

time sufficient, or as early as possible, for them to enter them at the C. H. of Michilimackinac, and obtain a clearance and license to trade in due form.

2d. That you will give immediate instruction to all your posts in said territory, under your direction, at no time and on no pretence whatever to hoist, or suffer to be hoisted, the English flag. If you con- ceive a flag necessary, you may make use of that of the United States, which is the only one which can be admitted.

3d. That you will on no further occasion, present a flag or medal to an Indian; hold councils with them on political subjects, or others for- eign from that of trade ; but on being applied to on those heads, refer them to the American agents, informing them that they are the only persons authorized to hold councils of a political nature with them.

FEB. 9th, Sunday. — Mr. M'GiLLis and myself paid a visit to Mr. ANDERSON, an agent of Mr. DICKSON, of the Lower Mississippi, who resided at the west end of the lake. Found him eligibly situated as to trade, but his houses bad.

FEB. 10th, Monday. — Hoisted the American flag in the fort. The English yacht still flying at the top of the flag staff, I directed the Indians and my riflemen to shoot at it, who soon broke the iron pin to which it was fastened, and brought it to the ground.

FEBRUARY llth, Tuesday — The SWEET, BUCK, BURNT, &c., arrived, all chiefs of note, but the former in particular, a venerable old man. From him I learnt, that the Sioux occu- pied this ground when (to use his own phrase) "He was a made man, and began to hunt ; that they occupied it the year that the French Missionaries were killed, at the river Pacagama."

FEBRUARY 12th, Wednesday — BRADLEY arid myself with Mr. M'GiLLis and two of his men, left Leech Lake at 10 o'clock, and arrived at the house at Red Cedar Lake, at sun- set ; a distance of thirty miles.

FEBRUARY 13th, Thursday — Were favored with a beautiful day. At this place it was, Mr. THOMPSON made his observa- tions in 1798, from which he determined that the source of

PIKE'S EXPLORATIONS IN MINNESOTA. 40 1

the Mississippi was in 47 ° 38. I walked about three miles back in the country, in two thirds water. One of our men marched to Lake Winnepic and returned by one o'clock, for the stem of the SWEET'S pipe, a matter of more consequence in his affairs, with the Sioux, than the diploma of many an ambassador.

FEBRUARY 14th, Friday — Left the house at nine o'clock. It becomes me here to do justice to the hospitality of our hosts ; one ROY, a Canadian and his wife, a Chippeway squaw. They relinquished for our use, the only thing in the house, that could be called a bed ; attended us like servants, nor could either of them be persuaded to touch a mouthful until we had finished our repasts. We made the garrison about sundown, having been dra'wn at least ten miles in a sleigh, by two small dogs; who were loaded with two hundred pounds, and went so fast as to render it difficult, for the men with snow-shoes, to keep up with them. The chiefs asked my permission to dance the calumet dance which I granted.

FEBRUARY 15th, Saturday — The FLAT MOUTH, chief of the Leech Lake village, and many other Indians arrived. Noted down the heads of my speech, and had it translated into French, in order that the interpreter should be perfectly master of his subject. Received a letter from Mr. M'GiLLis.

EXTRACT FROM THE LETTER OF HUGH M'GILLIS TO LIEUT. PIKE.

The enclosures to protect our stores and dwelling houses from the in- sults and barbarity of savage rudeness, have been erected for the security of my property and person in a country, till now, exposed to the wild will of the frantic Indians: we never formed the smallest idea that the said enclosures might ever be useful in the juncture of a rupture be- tween the two powers, nor do we now conceive that such poor shifts will ever be employed by the British government, in a country over- shadowed with wood, so adequate to every purpose. Forts might in a short period of time be built far superior to any stockades we may have occasion to erect.

We were not conscious, sir, of the error I acknowledge we have been 25

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guilty to commit, by exhibiting to view on your territory any standard of Great Britain. I will pledge myself to your government, that I will use my utmost endeavors, as soon as possible, to prevent the future display of the British flag, or the presenting of medals, or the exhibiting to pub- lic view, any other mark of European power, throughout the extent of territory known to belong to the dominion of the United States. The custom has long been established, and we innocently and inoifensively, as we imagined, have conformed to it till the present day.

Be persuaded that on no consideration, shall any Indian be entertained on political subjects, or on any affairs foreign to our trade; and reference shall be made to the American agents, should any application be made worthy such reference ; and be assured that we as a commercial company must find it ever our interests to interfere as little as possible with affairs of government in the course of trade; ignorant aa we are in this rude and distant country of the political views of nations.

We are convinced that the inestimable advantages arising from the en- deavors of your government, to establish a more peaceful course of trade in this part of the territory belonging to the United States, are not acquired through the mere liberality of a nation, and are ready to contribute to the expense necessarily attending them. We are not averse to pay the common duties established by law, and will ever be ready to conform ourselves to all rules and regulations of trade that may be established according to common justice.

FEBRUARY 16th, Sunday. — Held a council with the chiefs and warriors at this place, and of Red Lake ; but it required much patience, coolness, and management to obtain the objects I desired, viz : That they should make peace with the Sioux; deliver up their medals and flags ; and that some of their chiefs should follow me to St. Louis. As a proof of their agreeing to the peace, I directed that they should smoke out of the WABASHA'S pipe, which lay on the table ; they all smoked, from the head chief to the youngest soldier : they generally delivered up their flags with a good grace ; except the FLAT MOUTH, who said he had left both at hi?< camp, three days march, and promised to deliver them up to Mr. M'GiLLis, to be forwarded. With respect to their returning with me ; the old SWEET thought it most proper to return, to the Indians of the Red Lake, Red River, and

403

Rainy Lake River. The FLAT MOUTH said, it was neces- sary for him to restrain his young warriors, <fec. The other chiefs did not think themselves of consequence sufficient, to offer any reason for not following me to St. Louis, a journey of between two and three thousand miles through hostile tribes of Indians. I then told them, "that I was sorry to tind, that the hearts of the Sauteurs of this quarter, were so weak, that the other nations would say — what, are there no soldiers at Leech, Red, and Rainy Lakes, who had the hearts to carry the calumet of their chief to their father '?" This had the desired effect. The BUCKS and BEAUX, two of the most celebrated young warriors, rose and offered themselves to me, for the embassy ; they were accepted ; adopted as my children, and I installed their father. Their example animated the others, and it would have been no difficult matter to have taken a company ; two however were sufficient. I determined that it should be my care, never to make them regret the noble confidence placed in me ; for I would have protected their lives with my own. The BEAUX is brother to the FLAT MOUTH. Grave my new soldiers a dance, and a small dram. They attempted to get more liquor, but a firm and peremptory denial convinced them I was not to be trifled with.

FEBRUARY 18th, Tuesday. — We marched for Red Cedar Lake about 11 o'clock, with a guide, provided for me by Mr. M'GriLLis; were ail provided with snow shoes; marched oft' amidst the acclamations arid shouts of the Indians, who generally had remained to see us take our departure. Mr. ANDERSON promised to come on with letters ; he arrived about 12 o'clock arid remained all night. He concluded to go down with me, to see Mr. DICKSON.

FEU. 19th, Wednesday. — BRADLEY, Mr. L'RoxE, the two young Indians, and m\ .self, left Mr. M'GiLLis at 10 o'clock ;

404 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

crossed Leech Lake in a S. E. direction, 24 miles. Mr. M'GiLLis' hospitality deserves to be particularly noticed ; he presented me with his dogs and cariole, valued in this country at two hundred dollars ; one of the dogs broke out of his harness, and we were riot able, during the day, to catch him again, and the other poor fellow was obliged to pull the whole load, at least 150 pounds. This day's inarch was from lake to lake.

FEB. 24th, Monday. — We started early, and after passing over one of the worst roads in the world, found ourselves on a lake, about 3 o'clock ; took its outlet and struck the Mississippi about one mile below the canoes mentioned on the 1st of January, by which I knew where we were. As- cended the Mississippi about four miles, and encamped on the west side. Our general course, this day, was nearly south, when it should have been S. E. My young warriors were still in good heart, singing and shewing every wish to keep me so. The pressure of my racket strings brought the blood through my socks and rnockinsons, from which the pain I marched in may be imagined.

FEB. 25th, Tuesday. — We marched, arid arrived at Cedar Lake before noon ; found Mr. GRANT and DE BRECHE (chief of Sandy Lake) at the house. This gave me much pleas- ure, for I conceive Mr. GRANT to be a gentleman of as much candor as any with whom I had made an acquaintance in this quarter ; and the chief (Ds BRECHE) is reputed to be a man of better information than any of the Sauteurs.

MARCH 3d, Monday. — Marched early ; passed our Christ- mas encampment at sunrise. I was ahead of my party in a cariole. Soon afterwards, I observed smoke on the west shore. I hallooed, and some Indians appeared upon the bank. I waited until my interpreter came up ; we then went to the camp. They proved to be a party of Chippe- was, who had left the encampment the same day we left it.

PIKE'S EXPLORATIONS IN MINNESOTA. 405

They presented me with some roast meat, which I gave my sleigh dogs. They then left their camp, and accompanied us down the river. We passed our encampment of the 24th December, at 9 o'clock, of the 23d at 10 o'clock, and of the 22d at 11 o'clock; here the Indians crossed to the west shore ; arrived at the encampment of the 21st December, at 12 o'clock, where we had a barrel of flour. I here found Corporal MEEK and another man, from the post, from whom I heard that the men were all well. They confirmed the account of a Sioux having fired on a sentinel. We raised our barrel of flour, and came down to the mouth of a little river, on the east, which we passed on the 21st December. The ice covered the water.

MARCH 5th Wednesday. — Passed all the encampments between Pine Creek and the post, at which we arrived about 10 o'clock. I sent a man on ahead to prevent the salute I had before ordered by letter; this I did from the idea that the Sioux chiefs would accompany me. Found all well. About 1 o'clock, Mr. DICKSON arrived with the KILLEUB ROUGE, his son, and two other Sioux men, with two women, who had come up to be introduced to the Sauteurs they ex- pected to find with me. Received a letter from REINVILLE.

MARCH 15th, Saturday. — This was the day fixed upon by Mr. GRANT and the Chippeway warriors, for their arrival at my Fort ; and I was all day anxiously expecting them, for I knew that should they not accompany me down, the peace partially effected between them and the Sioux would not be on a permanent footing; and upon this I take them to be neither so brave nor generous as the Sioux, who, in all their taansactions, appear to be candid and brave, whereas, the Chippewas are suspicious, consequently treacherous, and, of course, cowards.

MARCH 17th, Monday. — Left the fort with my[interpreter and ROY, in order to visit THOMAS, the Fols Avoin chief,

406 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

who was encamped with six lodges of his nation, about twenty miles below us, on a little river which empties into the Mississippi on the west side a little above Clear River. It snowed all day, and at night a severe storm arose. It may be imagined that we spent a very disagreeable night, without shelter, and but one blanket each.

MARCH 18th, Tuesday. — We marched, determined to find the lodges. Met an Indian whose track we pursued through almost impenetrable woods, for about two and a half miles, to the camps. Here there was one of the finest sugar camps I almost ever saw, the whole of the timber being sugar tree. We were conducted to the chief's lodge, who received us in the patriarchal style. After we had refresh- ed ourselves, he asked whether we would visit his people at the other lodges, which we did; and in each were pre- sented with something to eat; by some with a bowl of sugar, others, a beaver's tail, &c. After making this tour, we re- turned to the chief's lodge, and found a berth provided for each of us, of good soft bear skins, nicely spread, and on mine there was a large feather pillow. I must not here omit to mention an anecdote, which serves to characterize, more particularly, their manners. This, in the eyes of the contracted moralist, would deform my hospitable host into a monster of libertinism ; but by a liberal mind, would be considered as arising from the hearty generosity of the wild savage. In the course of the day, observing a ring on one of my fingers, he inquired if it was gold ; he was told it was the gift of one with whom I should be happy to be at that time. He seemed to think seriously, and at night told my interpreter, " that perhaps his father (as they all called me) felt much grieved for the want of a woman ; if so, he could furnish him with one.''' He was answered, that with us, each man had but one wife, and that I considered it strictly my duty to remain faithful to her. This he thought

40T

strange, (he himself having three,) and replied that " he knew some Americans at his nation, who had half a dozen wives during the winter." The interpreter observed, that they were men without character, but that all our great men had each but one wife. The chief acquiesced, but said he liked better to have as many as he pleased. This con- versation passing without any appeal to me, as the inter- preter knew my mind on those occasions, and answered immediately, it did not appear as an immediate refusal of the woman. Continued snowing very hard all day. Slept very warm.

MARCH, 29th, Saturday. — We all marched in the morning. Mr. GRANT and party for Sandy Lake, and I for my hunting camp. I gave him my spaniel dog. He joined me again after we had separated about five miles. Arrived at my hunting camp about eight o'clock in the morning, -and was informed that my hunters had gone to bring in a deer ; they arrived with it, and about eleven o'clock we all went out hunting. Saw but few deer, out of which I had the good fortune to kill two. On our arrival at camp found one of my men at the garrison with a letter from Mr. DICK- SON. The soldier informed me that one Sioux had arrived with Mr. DICKSON'S men. Although much fatigued, soon as I had eat something,! took one of my men and departed for the garrison one hour before sundown. The distance was twenty-one miles, arid the ice very dangerous, being rotten, and the water over it nearly a foot deep ; we had sticks in our hands, and in many places ran them through the ice. It thundered and lightened, with rain. The Sioux not finding the Sauteurs, had returned immediately.

MARCH 30th, Sunday. — Wrote to Mr. DICKSON, and dispatched his man. Considerably stiff from my yesterday's march. Caulked our boats, as the ice had every appearance of breaking up in a few days. Thus whilst on the wing of eager expectation, every day seemed an age.

4:08 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

APRIL 7th, Monday. — Loaded our boats and departed forty minutes past ten o'clock. At one o'clock arrived at Clear River, where we found my canoe and men. Although I had partly promised the Fols Avoin chief to remain one night, yet time was too precious, and we put off; passed the Grand Rapids, and arrived at Mr. DICKSON'S just before sundown ; we were saluted with three rounds. At night he treated all my men with a supper and dram. Mr. DICK- SON, Mr. PAULIER and myself, sat up until four o'clock in the morning.

APRIL 8th, Tuesday. — Were obliged to remain this day on account of some information to be obtained here. I spent the day in making a rough chart of St. Peters, making notes on the Sioux, &c., settling the affairs of the Indian department with Mr. DICKSON, for whose communi- cations,-and those of Mr. PAULIER, I am infinitely indebted. Made every necessary preparation for an early embarkation.

APRIL 9th, Wednesday. — Rose early in the morning and commenced my arrangements. Having observed two In- dians drunk, during the night, and finding upon enquiry that the liquor had been furnished them by a Mr. GREIGNOR or JENNESSE, I sent my interpreter to them to request they would not sell any strong liquor to the Indians, upon which Mr. JENNESSE demanded the restrictions in writing, which were given to him.

On demanding his license, it amounted to no more than merely a certificate that he had paid the tax required by law of the Indian territory, on all retailers of merchan- dize; but it was by no means an Indian license; however, I did not think proper to go into a more close investi- gation. Last night was so cold that the water was covered with cakes of floating ice, of a strong consistence. After receiving every mark of attention from Messrs. DicK- SON and PAULIER, I took my departure at eight o'clock. At

PIKE'S EXPLORATIONS IN MINNESOTA. 409

four P. M. arrived at the house of Mr. PAULIER, twenty-five leagues, to whose brother I had a letter. Was received with politeness by him and a Mr. VEAU, who wintered along side of him on the very island at which we had encamped on the

night of the Oct., in ascending.

APRIL 10th, Thursday. — Sailed at half-past five o'clock ; about seven passed Rum River, and at eight were saluted by six or seven lodges of Fols Avoins, amongst whom was a Mr. , a clerk of Mr. DICKSON'S. Those people had win- tered on Rum River, and were waiting for their chiefs and traders to descend in order to accompany them to the Prai- rie des Chiens. Arrived at the Falls of St. Anthony at ten o'clock. Carried over all our loading and the canoe to the lower end of the portage, and hauled our boats upon the bank. I pitched my tents at the lower end of the encamp- ment where all the men encamped except the guard, whose quarters were above. The appearance of the Falls was much more tremendous than when we ascended ; the increase of water occasioned the spray to raise much higher, and the mist appeared like clouds. How different my sensations now, from what they were when at this place before : at hat time not having accomplished more than half my route, winter .fast approaching; war existing between the most savage nations in the course of my route ; my provisions greatly diminished, and but a poor prospect of an addi- tional supply. Many of my men sick, and the others not a little disheartened ; and our success in this arduous undertaking, very doubtful; just upon the borders of the haunts of civilized men, about to launch into an unknown wilderness ; for ours was the first canoe that had ever crossed this portage, were sufficient to dispossess my breast of contentment and ease. But now we have accomplished every wish, peace reigns throughout the vast extent ; we have returned thus far on our voyage

410 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

without the loss of a single man, and hoping soon to be blessed with the society of our relations and friends. The river this morning covered with ice, which continued floating all day. The shores still barricaded with it.

APRIL llth, friday. — Although it snowed very hard, we brought over both boats and descended the river to the island at the entrance of the St. Peters. I sent to the chiefs and informed them I had something to communicate to them. The FILS DE PINCHON immediately awaited on me* and informed me that he would provide a place for the purpose. About sundown I was sent for and introduced into the council house, where I found a great many chiefs of the Sussitongs, Gens des Feuilles, and the Gens du Lac. The Yactongs had not yet come down. They were all waiting for my arrival. There were about one hundred lodges? or six hundred people ; we were saluted on our crossing the river with ball, as usual. The council house was two large lodges, capable of containing three hundred men. In the upper were forty chiefs, and as many pipes set against the poles, along side of which I had the Sauteurs' pipes arranged. I then informed them in short detail, of my transactions with the Sauteurs ; but my interpreters were not capable of making themselves understood. I was therefore obliged to omit mentioning every particular relative to the rascal who fired on rny sentinel, and of the scoundrel who broke theFols Avoins' canoes, and threatened my life ; the interpreters however informed them that I wanted some of their princi- pal chiefs to go to St. Louis ; and that those who thought proper might descend to the prairie where we would give them more explicit information. They all smoked out of the Sauteurs' pipes, excepting three, who were painted black, and were some of those who lost their relations last winter. I invited the FILS DE PINCHON, and the son of the KILLEUR ROUGE, to come over and sup with me ; when

Mr. DICKSON and myself endeavored to explain what I intended to have said to them, could I have made myself understood ; that at the prairie we would have all things explained ; that I was desirous of making a better report of them than Capt. LEWIS could do from their treatment of him. The former of those savages was the person who remained around my post all last winter, and treated my men so well; they endeavored to excuse their people, &.c.

APRIL 12th, Saturday. — Embarked early. Although my interpreter had been frequently up the river, he could not tell me where the cave (spoken of by CARVER) could be found ; we carefully sought for it, but in vain. At the Indian village, a few miles below St. Peters, we were about to pass a few lodges, but on receiving a very particular invitation to come on shore, we landed, and were received in a lodge kindly ; they presented us sugar, &c. I gave the proprietor a dram, and was about to depart when he demanded a kettle of liquor : on being refused, and after I had left the shore, he told me, that he did not like the arrangements, and that he would go to war this summer. I directed the interpreter to tell him, that if I returned to the St. Peters with the troops, 1 would settle that affair with him. On our arrival at the St.. Croix, I found the PETIT CORBEAU with his people, and Messrs. FRAZER and WOOD. We had a conference, when the PETIT CORBEAU made many apologies for the miscon- duct of his people. He then presented me with a beaver robe and pipe, and his message to the general. That he- was determined to preserve peace, and make the road clear ; also a remembrance of his promised medal. I made a reply, calculated to confirm him in his good inten- tions, and assured him that he should not be the less remem- bered by his father, although not present. I was informed, that, notwithstanding the instruction of his license, and my

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particular request, MURDOCH CAMERON had taken liquor and sold it to the Indians, on the river St. Peters ; and that his partner below had been equally imprudent. I pledged my- self to prosecute them according to law : for they have been the occasion of great confusion, and of much injury to the other traders. This day met a canoe of Mr. DICKSONS* loaded with provisions, under the charge of Mr. ANDERSON, brother of the Mr. ANDERSON at Leech Lake. He politely offered me any provision he had on board, (for which Mr. DICKSON had given me an order) but not now being in wrant, I did not accept of any. This day, for the first time, I observed the trees beginning to bud, and indeed the climate seemed to have changed very materially since we passed the Falls of St. Anthony.

APRIL 13th, Sunday. — We embarked after breakfast. Messrs. FRAZER and WOOD accompanied me. Wind strong ahead. They out -rowed us ; the first boat or canoe we met with on the voyage able to do it, but then they were double manned and light. Arrived at the band of *he AILE ROUGE at two o'clock, where we were saluted as usual. We had a council, when he spoke with more detestation of the rascals at the mouth of the St. Peters, than any man I had yet heard.

In short, after much talk, I agreed to remain one day, knowing that the Lake was closed, and that we could pro- ceed only nine miles if we went ; this appeared to give gen- eral satisfaction.

I was invited to different feasts, and entertained at one by a person whose father was enacted a chief by the Spani- ards. At this feast I saw a man (called by the French the ROMAN NOSE, and by the Indians THE WIND THAT WALKS) who was formerly the second chief of the Sioux, but being the cause of the death of one of the traders, seven years since, he voluntarily relinquished the dignity, and has frequently requested to be given up to the whites.

413

But he was now determined to go to St Louis and deliver himself up where he said they might put him to death. His long repentance, the great confidence of the nation in him, would perhaps protect him from a punishment which the crime merited. But as the crime was committed long before the United States assumed its authority, and as no law of theirs could affect it, unless it was ex post facto, and had a retrospective effect, I conceive it would certainly be dispunishable now. I did not think proper however, to inform him so. I here received a letter from Mr. ROLLET, partner of Mr. CAMERON, with a present of some brandy, coffee and sugar. I hesitated about receiv- ing those articles from the partner of the man I intended to prosecute ; their amount being trifling however I accepted of them, offering him pay. I assured him that the prosecution arose from a sense of duty, and not from any personal prejudice. My canoe did not come up in consequence of the head wind. Sent out two men in a canoe to set fishing^ lines ; the canoe overset, and had it not been for the timely assistance of the savages, who carried them into their lodges, undressed them, and treated them with the greatest human- ity and kindness, they must inevitably have perished. At this place I was informed, that the rascal spoken of as hav- ing threatened my life, had actually cocked his gun to shoot me from behind the hills, but was prevented by the others.

APRIL 14th, Monday. — Was invited to a feast by the ROMAN NOSE. His conversation was interesting, and shall be detailed hereafter. The other Indians not yet arrived. Messrs. WOOD, FRAZER, and myself, ascended a high hill called the Barn, from which we had a view of Lake Pepin. The valley through which the Mississippi by numerous channels wound itself to the St. Croix ; the Cannon River and the lofty hills on each side.

APRIL 15th, Tuesday. — Arose very early and embarked

414 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

about sunrise, much to the astonishment of the Indians, who were entirely prepared for the council, when they heard I had put off; however, after some conversation with Mr. PRAZER, they acknowledged that it was agreeably to what I had said, that I would sail early, and that they could not blame me. I was very positive in my word, for I found it by far the best way to treat the Indians. The AILE ROUGE had a beaver robe and pipe prepared to present, but was obliged for the present to retain it. Passed through Lake Pepin with my barges, the canoe being obliged to lay by, did not come on. Stopped at a prairie on the right bank descending, about nine miles below Lake Pepin. Went out to view some hills which had the appearance of the old forti- fications spoken of ; but I will speak more fully of them hereafter. In these hollows, I discovered a flock of elk; took out fifteen men, but we were not able to kill any. Mr. FRAZER came up and passed on about two miles. We encamped together. Neither Mr. WOOD'S nor my canoe arrived. Snowed considerably.

APRIL 16th, ^Wednesday. — Mr. FRAZER'S canoes and my boats sailed about one hour by sun. We waited some time expecting Mr. WOOD'S barges, and my canoe, but hearing a gun fired just above our encampment, we were in- duced to make sail. Passed the Aile Prairie, also La Montagne qui Trernpe a L'eau, the Prairie de Cross, and encamped on the west shore, a few hundred yards below?

where I had encamped on the day of September, in

ascending. This day the trees appeared in bloom. Snow might still be seen on the sides of the hills. Distance seventy-five miles.

APRIL 17th, Tfmrsday. — Put off pretty early and arrived at WABASHA'S band at 11 o'clock, where I detained all day for him ; but he alone of all the hunters remained out all night. Left some powder and tobacco for him. The

PIKE'S EXPLORATIONS IN MINNESOTA. 415

Sioux presented me with a kettle of boiled meat and a deer. I here received information that the Puants had killed some white men below. Mr. WOOD'S and my canoe arrived.

APRIL 18th, Friday. — Departed from our encampment very early. Stopped to breakfast at the Painted Rock. Arrived at the Prairie des Cheiris at two o'clock ; and were received by crowds on the bank. Took up my quarters at Mr. FISHER'S. My men received a present of one barrel of pork from Mr. CAMPBELL, a bag of biscuit, twenty loaves of bread, and some meat from Mr. FISHER. A Mr. JEARREAU, from Cahokia, is here, who embarks to-morrow for St. Louis. I wrote to Gen. WILKINSON by him. I was called on by a number of chiefs, Reynards, Sioux of the Des Moyan, <fcc. The Winnebagoes were here intending, as I was informed, to deliver some of the murderers to me. Received a great deal of news from the States and Europe, both civil and military.

APRIL 19th, Saturday. — Dined at Mr. CAMPBELL'S in company with Messrs. WILMOT, BLAKELY, WOOD, ROLLET, FISHER, FRAZER and JEARREAU. Six canoes arrived from the upper part of the St. Peters with the Yanctong chiefs from the head of that river. Their appearance was indeed savage, much more so than any nation I have yet seen. Prepared my boat for sail. Gave notice to the Puants that I had business to do with them the next day. A band of the Gens du Lac arrived. Took into my pay as interpreter Mr. Y. REINVILLE.

APRIL 20th, Sunday. — Held a council with the Puant chiefs, and demanded of them the murderers of their nation; they required till to-morrow to consider on it; this after- noon they had a great game of "the cross" on the prairie, between the Sioux on the one side, and the Puants and the Reynards on the other. It is an interesting sight to see two or three hundred naked savages contending on the

4:16 MINNESOTA HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.

plain who shall bear off the palm of victory ; as he who drives the ball round the goal is much shouted at by his companions. It sometimes happens that one catches the ball in his racket, and depending on his speed endeavors to- carry it to the goal, and when he finds himself too closely pursued, he hurls it with great force and dexterity to an amazing distance, where there are always flankers of both parties ready to receive it; it seldom touches the ground,, but is sometimes kept in the air for hours before either party can gain the victory. In the game I witnessed, the Sioux were victorious, more I believe, from the superiority of their skill in throwing the ball, than by their swiftness, for I thought the Paants and Reynards the swiftest runners. I made a written demand of the magistrates to take deposition concerning the late murders. Had a private conversation with WABASHA.

APRIL 25th, Monday. — Was sent for by LA FEUILLE, and had a long and interesting conversation with him, in which he spoke of the general jealousy of his nation towards their chiefs ; and that although he knew it might occasion some of the Sioux displeasure, he did not hesitate to declare that- he looked on the NEZ CORBEAU, as the man of most sense in their nation ; and that he believed it would be generally acceptable if he was reinstated in his rank. Upon my return I was sent for by the RED THUNDER, chief of the Yanctongs, the most savage band of the Sioux. He was prepared with the most elegant pipes and robes I ever saw ; and shortly he declared, "That white blood had never been shed in the village of the Yanctongs, even when rum was permitted ; that Mr. MURDOCH CAMEROX arrived at his village last autumn ; that he invited him to eat, gave him corn as a bird ; that he (CAMERON) informed him of the prohibition of rum, and was the only person who afterwards sold it in the village."

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