rh

PLAIN AND EASY

/

INTRODUCTION

TO THE

KNOWLEDGE AND PRACTICE

OP

GARDENING,

WITH

HINTS ON FISH"POJVX)S>

BY CHARLES MARSHALL,

VICAR OF BRIXWORTH, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE.

,6oD A.LMIGHTY first planted a Garden, and indeed it is the purest of humaii
Pleasures : It is the greatest Refreshment t» the Spirits of Man ; without wliich,
Buildings and Palaces are but grass handy Works. BACON'S ESSAYS.

THE FIFTH EDITION.

PRINTED FOR F. C. AND J, RIVINGTON J J. WALKER J J. RICHARDSON J

LONGMAN AND CO. J J. HATCHARDJ J. MAWMAN j AND SHERWOOD,

NEELY, AND JONES J

By Law aud Gilbert, St. John's Square, Ckrkenwell.

1813.

PREFACE.

THIS work having come to a fifth edition, evinces its fa-
vourable reception by the public; and though the author
trusts it will continue to recommend itself to those who art?
acquainted with it, he thinks it is but doing himself justice,
and may promote its more general adoption and usefulness,
by republishing the following SANCTIONS, as they occurred
on thejirst Edition ; since which it has been considerably en-
larged and improved.

" The directions of this Manual appear to us to be distinctly
and usefully given, and little as we are used to the practical part
of the science, we have read the work with pleasure." Gentle-
man's Magazine, June, 1797.

" This work is calculated for Gentlemen Gardeners, and we
altogether recommend it as convenient in size, and very judici-
ously arranged." British Critic, October, 1797.

*' This work is no compilation. The respectable author has
given to the public, the result of his experience, delivered with
that plainness and perspicuity, which cannot fail of rendering
his work highly useful to every reader who shall consult it either
for pleasure or instruction." Monthly Review, November, 1797.

" A very extensive and useful performance, in which much
information will be found, and the young Gardener will derive
both pleasure and amusement from this compendious and cheap
manual." European Magazine, June, 1798.

" Mr. Marshall's observations on the modes of cultivating
different articles, deserve the attention of the inexperienced
Gardener." Critical Revietv, July, 1798.

" This is one of the most complete v/orks on the subject we
remember to have seen; and is a work both from its nature and
execution, which every country gentleman ought to have in his
possession." Analytical Review, October, 1798.

CONTENTS*

SECTION 1. Praise of Gardening.

2. Concerning Vegetation.

3. The Formation of a Garden.

4. The Cultivation of a Garden.

5. Of Propagation.

6. Of a Nursery.

7. Of Graffing.

8. Of Planting.

9. Of Shrubs, Shrubberies, &c.

10. Of Forest Trees.

11. Of Rural Gardening.

12. Of Pruning.
IS. Of Hot-Beds.

14. Of raising Cucumbers and Melons,

15. Of Esculents.
•i, 16. Of Herbs, &c.

17. Of Fruits.

18. Of Flowers.

19. Lists of Trees, Shrubs, and Flowers.
$G. A CALENDAR.

The .Alphabetical Lists in Section 19? contain a great
number of plants, and those trees, shrubs, and flowers, which
are not referred to in the Index, must be looked for in this
Section ; where is mentioned their stature, time of tiowering,
colour, nature, and propagation; all which arrangements are
formed on a plan entirely new. Those who are led by the
Index to any of the articles of observation in Sect. 19> should
also turn to the preceding List for the^saine article, in order
to complete their information*

''li'f. #idjr -:« r/uii

SECTION L,

^x)»ri >" ,ij.<T:i «f/<> '•.<] oj nsjTmb cio*J
,;/•;•• j ^.nwqydr'lo'MiiJ ,ynb >B il-ji

tHE PRAISE OF GARDENING;

, ,! £*.i ilUiw;tJTJ4ffl ^ni'fiu ',)(" OtfJ.:'.J

1 . . :vig-i-w r.i?iH ^:iGr?i>^ \fc .>»-itl^u«j;;» VI t

T is of importance to the welfare of any art, that

those \vhos6 taste inclines towards it, should have a
good opinion of its utility, and competent notions
of its principles. It is therefore the design of the
present section, to shew the degree of estimation that
the art of gardening is worthy. oC;. and it is the
object of the next, to assist in. the acquiring that
knowledge of Nature, upon which tfye art so much
depends.

£: . t: , u.-i^.i :_£'<;>/.'" i ;tii '/.

.Not to enlarge upon the profits of gai<ieniag, its
employments are certainly conducive to health of
body, and peace of mind j and great indeed -are the
charms and recreations of a garden well stocked,
and well managed by the hand, or under the direc-
tion of the owner himself: It at all times serves him
as a source of rational amusement, and honest sa-
tisfaction.

The praise of gardening, it is presumed, can
hardly be too much extolled ; and, as its praise
has been set forth by the best of men, and most re-
spectable of writers, it may better answer the pre-
sent purpose to produce their sentiments, than to
attempt new ones.

What we admire, we praise ; and when we praise,
Advance it into notice, that its worth
Acknowledged, others may admire it too.

COWPEB.

The great Lord Bacons opinion of gardening, as
given in the motto of the title page, is certainly

B

2 THE PRAISE OF SECT. I.

both just and honourable. The agreeable Cowley
speaks of his darling subject of nature as enjoyed in
a garden, thus:

When GOD dicl man to His own likeness make,
As much as clay, tho' of the purest kind,
(By the -great potter's art retin'd)
Could toe divine impression take,
He thought it tit to place him, where
A kind of heaven too did appear,
£ 9v As far as earth could such a likeness bear !
.8fiui ]o:That man no happiness might want, f^jcnic'O
OfjfJ 'Which earth to her first master could afford ;

He did a garden for him;plant?
By the quick hand of his omnipotent word;
Asthe chief help and joy of human life,
He gave him the first gift,— ^eveh -before a wife.

And w:ell he knew, what place would best agree,

"With INNOCENCE and with FELICITY.
And W-efse where still '-steek for them in vain,

if any part <# either yet remain.

If any part df either we expect " j t:
fbo?'Th^> m'^y our judgment in the search direct;
•Si/iff?0^* 'kfi first garden made, and the first -.city, — rutu'/*»

n.-ul Wheri - Bpietinte fa the world had taught
? 2? That [pleasure was the chiefest good,
(And was perhaps i'th'right, if rightly understood)
n . ftlis life he to-his doctrine brought,

And i.n a gardens shade, that sovereign pleasure sought.

Whoever a true epicure would be,
May there -find cheap and virtuous luxury.

Nor does this happy place only dispense

Such various pleasures to the sense,

Here health itself does live,
That salt of life, which does to all a relish give,

Its standing pleasure, and intrinsic worth,
The body's virtue, and the soul's good fortune, health,

Methinks I see great Dioclesian walk
In the Salomon garden's noble shade,
Winch by his own imperial hands was made :

StCt. I. GARDENING; '

I see him smile, methinks, as he does talk
With the ambassador, who came in vaiu
TPentice him to a throne again :
If I, my friends, said he, should to you show
All the delights which in these gardens grow,
Tis likelier much that you should with me
Than 'tis that you should carry me away :
And trust me not, my friends, if every day

I walk not here with more delight
Than ever after the most happy tight,
In triumph to the capitol I trod,
To thank the Gods, and to be thought myself a God.

Mr* Cowleys passion for retirement was indeed
very strong ; but might he not well say, " Is there
not a cause ?" He had been conversant in high and
public life, and was very glad to leave

Those dangerous posts, where customs ill agree
With virtuous rules, or sound philosophy.

As one reason for his going out from Sodom (a*
he speaks) to his little Zoar^ he asks-,

Who that has reason and his smell
Would not among roses and jasmin dwell>
Rather than all his spirits choak
With exhalations of dirt and smoak ;
And all th' uncleanness which does drown
In pestilential clouds a populous town.

Another poet (Clericus) retiring from town to a
cottage and a garden, says,

I strait betook myself to trace the laws
Of nature, upwards to its fruitfu 1 cause;
And, digging mines of true philosophy,
The mystic stone I found, whose energy
Apply'd, transmutes some matter, some sublimes,
Drawing within my circle golden times.

Often amused with feats of gardening,

Delightful exercise, I work and sing !

And moving cheerful feel not half my toil, *

Like swains that whistle, while they plough the soil ;

4 THE PRAISE OF SECT, I.

Should any disbelieve, I here invite

Such infidels to come, and trust their sight.

— -Uncorrupt and happy days were those
When Roman Consuls exercised their hoes ;
Whose leisure hours in country cares were spent,
And whose diversions all were innocent.
Oft their own labours furnishVl out their feast,
And thus their fruits and sallads relish'd best.

ART OF GARDENING.

^. .VJM -.'"'" •* I13:1

******

"" - **) '<wir«i»ii •X- V^> sj'' '1 ' ' Lr<<-'v »t • ij ••'••if'-

Mr. Evelyn, who had so great knowledge and ex-
perience in the way of gardening, speaks its praise
in these words : Though the gardener's life be a la-
borious one, yet is it full of tranquillity and satisfac-
tion. A condition furnished with the most innocent,
laudable and purest of earthly felicities; and such
as does certainly make the nearest approaches to
that blessed state, where only they enjoy all things

without pains.

•'•'•#•'"# * # # #

Mr. Addison says, I look upon the pleasure which
we take in a garden, as one of the most innocent de-
lights of human life. A garden was the habitation
of our first parents before the fall. It is naturally
apt to fill the mind with calmness and tranquillity,
and to lay ail its turbulent passions at rest. It gives
a great insight into the contrivance and wisdom of .
providence ; and suggests innumerable subjects for
meditation.

Mr. Hercey, in his Meditations, on return from a
walk, having entered thcfazver garden, and called it
n beautiful spot, sa}s, " Here nature always pleas-
ing, every where lovely, appears with peculiar at-
tractions. Yonder 'she seems dressed in her desha-
bille ; grand, but irregular. Here she calls in her
hand-maid art ; and shines in all the delicate orna-
ments, that tEe nicest cultivation can convey. Those

SECT. I. GARDENING. £

are her common apartments where she lodges her
ordinary guests: 'Thin is her cabinet of curiosities,
where she entertains her intimate acquaintance. My
eye shall often expatiate over those scenes of univer-
sal fertility: My feet shall sometimes brush through
the thicket, or traverse the lawn, or stroll along the
forest glade ; but to this delightful retreat shall be
my chief resort. — Thither will I make excursions,
but here will I dwell."

On the Kitchen Garden Mr. IT. observes, " Here
those celebrated qualities are eminently united, — the
utmost simplicity with the greatest neatness : none
of the productions affect finery. If it be pleasing to
betide! their orderly situations, and their modest
beauties ; how delightful vo consider the advantages
they yield ! What a fund of choice accommoda-
tions here ! What a scurce of wholesome dainties,
and all for the enjoyment ot man ! Not one species
of all this is a cumbercr of the ground. Not a
single plant but is good for food, or some way salu-
tary. And with so beneficent an economy arc the
several periods of their ministration settled, that no
portion of the year is left destitute of such nourish-
ing esculents as are best suited to the temperature of
the air, and the state of our bodies. — Oh! why
should the possessor of so valuable a spot envy the
condition of kings? Since he mav daily walk amidst
rows of peaceable and obsequious subjects ; every
one of which tenders him some agreeable present,
and pays him a willing tribute. Such as is most ex-
cellently adapted, both to supply his wants, and re-
gale his taste ; to furnish him at once with both
plenty and pleasure."

From the amiable Cowper, who was much in his
garden, something on this subject may be added
the garden, iu his Poem, entitled the TAS

THE PRAISE OF SECT. I*

O friendly to the best pursuits of man,
Friendly to thought, to virtue and to peace,
Domestic life in rural leisure pass'd.

Scenes formed for contemplation, and to nurse
The growing seeds of wisdom ; that suggest,
By every pleasing image they present,
Reflections such as meliorate the heart,
Compose the passions, and exalt the mind.

Oh ! blest seclusion from a jarring world,
Which he, thus occupied, enjoys ! Retreat
Cannot indeed to guilty man restore
Lost innocence, or cancel follies past,
But it has peace, and much secures the mind
From all assaults of evil, proving still
A faithful barrier, net o'erleap'd with ease.
By vicious custom raging uncontroul'd
Abroad, and desolating public lifeT

The morning finds the self-sequester'd man,
Fresh for his task, intend what task he may.
— If the garden with its many cares,
All well repaid, demand him, he attends
The welcome call.

Had I the choice of sublunary good,
What could I wish, that I possess not here ?

Sir William Temple commended the employment
care of a garden as his settled choice, saying,—
For my own part, as the country life, and this part
of it more particularly, where the inclination of my
youth itself, so they are the pleasures of my age.
And this great man thought it worthy of remark,
what delight the wise and great king Solomon must
have had in the study and cultivation of plants as
set forth in Sacred Writ.

Le Pluche justly asserts, — Of all the employ-
ments in life, none is more simple, natural, and en-
tertaining, than the cultivation of plants.

Virgil of old, describes the happiness of a culti-
vator pf the ground in gardening and planting, as

SECT. I. GARDENING 7

equalling all the opulence of kings, in the ease, con-
tent, and freedom of his mind. This is one of the
most agsured truths ; and happy are they who are
free from the entanglements ot artificial life, and
not over-burthened with honour and greatness.

Gardening leads to planting and farming, of
which, collectively, Mr. Cowley prettily speaks. — It
is one of the best natured delights of all others, for
a man to look about him, and see nothing but the
effects and improvements of his own art and dili-
gence; to be always gathering some fruits of it,
and at the same time to behold others ripening, and
others budding; to see all his fields and gardens
covered with the beauteous creatures of his own in-
dustry; and to see, like the CREATOR, that all his
works are good.

Of a country life in general, Mr. C. says, " We
are here among the vast and noble scenes of nature ;
where we walk in the light and open ways of the
divine bounty, and where our senses are feasted with
the clear and genuine taste of their objects."

SECTION IT.

CONCERNING VEGETATION.

AS a good GARDEN affords much pleasure and pro-
fa, it deserves every attention, and the cultivation of
it cannot be too rationally pursued. It is therefore
that a sketch of ihe Nature of Vegetation is here
attempted ; for the use of those who are unac-
q-uainted with the subject, to assist them in the pur-
suit of gardening with understanding.

8 CONCERNING 5ECT, If,

Let the ELEMENTS of nature be first considered,
EARTH, as an element, considered in itself, ap^
pears not to serve to the support of man or beast.
Though from it all things spring as from a common
womb, yet independent of the othsr elements, or
extraneous matter, it neither produces, nor affords,
any thing like food. Assisted however by these,
there is a combination of powers in it, the effects of
which are equally beneficial and wonderful.

It has been pretty much an opinion, that the earth
acts only as a receptacle for nutriment ; and as a
resting place, or means of supporting plants erectly;
to imbibe rain, dews, air, &c. needing continually to
be replenished with power by manures, or from the
atmosphere. Indeed, it is not to be conceived, how
much the earth, considered as a solid, should pass
through the capillary parts of plants. Experiments
have proved, that the earth is very little, if at all
exhausted, by the growth of plants, and conse-
quently affords a presumption that plants are not
fed by it.

There has been much controversy about the food
of plants. A respectable writer says, The saline,
unctuous, and subtle slime, which the water sepa-
rates from the coarse earth, and keeps in a dissolved
state, is the principal nutriment of plants. And
indeed, this is the opinion of others, who have treated
£he subject, and is justified by enquiries into the na-
ture of the sap of plants, by decomposition :

Those who contend for ah inherent power in
earth to nourish plants, lay a stress upon the cir-
cumstance, that' various earths have varions qualir
ties, suited to different parts. But to this it may be
said, that the earth being more or less binding, or
composed of differently constructed particles, occa-
sions the parting with the food cemmitted to it, the

6ECT. II. VEGETATION. #

more or less freely, or altered according to its vari-
ous modes of percolation, or straining.

WATEK appears to have much to do in the sub-
sistence of plants, for they consume a great deal;
and either die, or are at a stand, when they are de-
prived of it, or at least of humidity from the air.
It is proved, that seeds and plants, and in short all
substances, consist chiefly of water, being reducible
to liquids in a great degree.

Water (with respect to vegetation) has been de-
fined to be, a mixed fluid, in which are all sorts of
particles proper for the composition of plants.
Rooted trees have been set in water at the spring,
(as a rose) and put forth leaves fair, though pale ;
and it is well known, that many slips and branches
.of plants will strike root in water readily: and ga-
thered flowers not only keep fresh in it, but increase
in size, and buds alsq open. Hyacinths are very
commonly blown in water in warm rooms for an
early show. All seeds will germinate, and some
continue to grow in it. »

The natural state of water uninfluenced by heat
is ice, and when very cold, it is too dense a fluid to
pass through some of the capillary vessels of plants;
yet a small degree of heat rarifies it ; and as its glo-
bules are capable of being infinitely divided by a
proportionate heat; it is thus rendered tit to pass
through the finest canals. It mixes with the nutri-
tive properties that may be lodged in the earth, and
is (at least) the vehicle of the food of plants. In
this respect alone, water is most valuable; and with-
out it, nothing could be elaborated in nature, no fer-
mentation wrought, and animals and plants would
4ie of thirst \

10 CONCERNING- SEGT. II.

AIR is found in a considerable degree in water,
in plants, and in fruits. It may be almost demon-
strated (says one) that the vegetable nourishment is
principally in the air : The tree Sedum suspended,
lives and grows for years by air through its moisture.

How necessary this element of air is to man, the
commonest observation evinces. Deprived of air,
life is quickly lost, and in a depraved state of it,
runs fast to sickness and death, Thus plants are
found to flourish in a free and open air, and grow
pale and languish in the contrary. But air is not
only necessary for the leaves of plants to breathe in,
their roots require it : Plants will not do well if the
soil is too much bound for the air to penetrate freely
about them.

The sickliness of housed plants has been said to be
owing greatly to want of motion. But the want of
fresh air, is undoubtedly the chief cause ; for pure
air is fraught with animating principles, and by its
attenuating and elastic properties, separates the gross
juices, keeps the sap in motion, and the plants in
health.

Air conveys to the organs of smelling, all those
grateful scents, which plants, flowers and fruits pro-
duce, and we are greatly regaled, and refreshed by
them.

If it be asked, what air is, and of what it con-
sists? It may be answered, Particles of wet and dry
bodies volatilized; and rendered elastic by fire. The
air or atmosphere that surrounds our earth, contains
a mixture of all the active volatile parts of the whole
habitable world ; that is, of all vegetables, minerals
and animals. Whatever perspires, corrupts or ex-
hales, impregnates the air ; which, being acted upon
by the solar fire, produces within itself, all sorts of
chemical operations, dispenses again those salts and

3ECT. II. VEGETATIONS 1 1

spirits in new generations; which it had received from
putrefactions.

- • ? • . : $iL- w •• i ' *i • -*J 3i*n|

. p; « • -. 'i. fvr v <j fjj'w) tit * "? ' • - 3 '3 "}aHI O^ *0 "I tii t '"iv ' '

FIRE, as it operates from the prime body of it the
SUN, gives life and energy to all, completing the
process of nature. There is no existing without ex-
ternal heat. Its total absence would presently bring
all animation to the coldness of death !

The sun by its warmth (conveyed by the air) sets
forward that fermentation in the earth, and gives
that spirit to plants, which effects growth, and con-
cocts their juices to make them fruitful.

It is by the rarefaction of the air and juices con-
tained in the roots, and all the parts of a plant, that
niotion and expansion are given to it ; and by its
ascending force, pushes into buds, leaves, flowers
and fruits ; sending off superfluous and excrement!-
tious moisture into the atmosphere, thus giving us
the scents peculiar to each. That the sun does this,
is evident from what is experienced in artificial
warmth, hurrying on the growth of plants, which is
ever proportionate to the heat applied, provided
there is a proper supply of moisture.

Without the vivifying sun, the other elements
would be inactive matter, and " no longer would the
Jig-tree blossom, nor fruit be in the vine : The labour
of the olive would fail, and the fields yield no meat"
The operative power of the sun reaches the deepest
recesses, to beds of metals, and to " the place of
sapphires ; qnd there is nothing hid from the heat
thereof."

What blessings does this bounteous planet pour
On the glad heart of man, when rolling round
His azure road, he scatters as he flies,
fo warm his raptur'd bosom, light and joy !

HEWCOMH.

JfeZ- ' &<pp|RNiN$K' SECT; n.

- . . **• *'-i^'f'--". '• *•>'•> •&

. The sXJ.tf is .the fountain rof4 ^JG HT* . . This glori-
ous object of cr:0ation, as a lumiriWfyy givB^teariiil-
ness both in nature 'and jap pear&noe to -•9.ftjtwng^t.'If
light is not -so necessary to our exj$jtea$J(as he#t, life
would yet be, miserable without' it. ';** ^>

As to fee^ji*^

plants get always sickly^ and would not exist long if
deprived of it. Light, philosophically considered,
is half their nourishment. All plants turn to the
light as to a powerful attraction, or, as if conscious
how necessary it is to their existence. Light at the
same time that it heats, doth wonderfully rarity and
raise the sap. It is the same with Mther, and it so
mixes with other bodies, as to enter into their coin-
position, and encrease their weight. The arornatic
flavour of vegetables seems to depend upon the
sun's light as much as colours do.

The physical properties of that etherlal substance,
whieh is so subtle and pervading as light, we may
well believe to be various and wonderful, though in-
conceivable.

Behold the light emitted from the sun,
What more fairtiliar, and what more unknown ?
While by its spreading radiance it reveals
All nature's face, it still itself conceals.
How swift th' effulgent emanations fly
Thro* the blue gulph of interposing sky !
Millions of miles, so rapid is their race
To cheer the earth, they \i\few moments pass.
Amazing progress ! at its utmost stretch,
What human mind can this suift motion reach?

BLACKMORE.

How impressively are we taught to value the bles-
sing of light, by a view of day-break in a fine sum-
mer's morn !

, The hour of morn returns,

Unbars the <:ates of 'light, and opens wide
A prospect to the e^e, which now unfolds

fl ECT. If* JTEG-ETATIOS: 13

Ten thousand beauteous scenes which lay concealed > -,
Before in. darkness: now the radiant^Myen*

'. ;. j-i,. . , , . . . Pr-. , •••'•'

Glitter with azure pav d, with roses st$|gw d.
With Itvely verdure each green plain an sfy!d,
Each flower.puts on a glow of richest hue*;
The wide creation now is seen adorned ;.*/t

.Infill her rich attire and beauties bloom,
View'd by each wand'ring eye with raptur'd joy i
All the rich pomp which theatres display,
Their shining ornaments, the lustres hung
In the proud courts and palaces of kings,
Lose their diminished light, and die away,
Whene'er the sun unfolds his radiant beams I

NEWCOMB,

'l"'«i'-c ci>'.*S 3f'j r<iM''iifi jlfcV/
From this view of the elements it appears^ that

their offices are mutual, and that there is a harmony
of them, necessary to the welfare of plants, in a view
to which art may sometimes assist nature. It is for
this end that what is said of them here is advanced,
that the young gardener may convert to use his en-
.tertainment.

******

Having seen a* little into the nature of the ELE-
MENTS, principally as they relate to the existence o,f
plants, let , us proceed to consider the plants them-
selves. Their structure has been examined by the
greatest geniuses, and though able, (perhaps) to de-
termine little of Nature's laws, yet has the pleasure
and satisfaction they have reaped repaid them their
trouble. Though after all our researches, we are
finally led to this conclusion, that God's works, 'ike
his ways, are " past finding out ;" yet it there is any
satisfaction in knowledge,, or any consolation in piety,
these gratifications are to be sought inr and uill be
reaped from, attentive and modest enquiries into
Nature. " Ike works of the Lord are great , sought
out of all them that have pleasure therein." Let it
be noticed then, that Nature is nothing, but the art

ght ^
t, >
«ht. J

14 eoyC£fctf INS SECT. It*

of GOD ; a bright display of that wisdom, which
demands an eternal tribute of wonder and worship.

The notions which arise from Natures light
As well . adorn the in ind as guide her right,
Enlarge her compass, .and improve her sight. J
These ne'er the breast with vain ambition fire,
But banish pride, and modest thoughts inspire:
By her informed; we blest religion Learn, >
Its glorious OBJECT by her aid discern.
The rolling worlds around us we surve}»,
Th' alternate sov'reigns of tlie night aadday;
View the iwide earth adorn'd with/hills and
1 Hkh.inlier herds, and fertile in her floods.
Walk through the deep apartments of the main,
Ascend the air to visit clouds and rain ;
WN -And while we ravish'd gaze in Nature's face,
Remark .her order, and- her motions trace.
The long coherent chain of things we find
Leads to a cause SUPREME, a wise creating mint?~

BLACKMORE.

* * #•#'#.#•

SEEDS of plants stand first -to be considered, and
they are truly wonderful. What large plants from
seeds no bigger than a grain of sand ? What a stately
oak from a little acorn ?

The seeds of fern, which by prolific heat,
Cheer'd and unfolded, form a plant so great;
Are less a thousand times than what the eye
Can unassisted by the tube descry I

BLACKMORE.

Seeds contain in embryo (or miniature) the plant
they are to produce, in all its parts, which they have
preserved from age to age,, seeds producing plants,
• and plants seeds, &c.

They are covered with coats that are finely and

closely wrought, the better to keep the moisture of

the earth from coming in too suddenly upon the

lobes, or .the little plant, which might occasion their

1

SECT. it. VEGETATION; 5

rotting, and we find that almost every sort of seed,
by means of these coverings, must remain different
lengths of time in the earth, before they begin to
germinate. Some will not spring in tire natural
ground till the second year after they are buried,
while others will begin to shoot in three days after
sowing. This appears owing to their requiring dif-
ferent degrees of moisture, heat and air, to make
them germinate ; i. e. bring them into a state of
fermentation.

The substance of see,ds Appears to be spent first in
feeding the radicle, and then in the nourishment of
the two first, or seed leaves, which are commonly of
a different size, shape and substance from the proper
leaves of the plant : From between these comes •*
shoot bearing the true leaves. The lobes (or substance)
of seed consist of a farinous nutriment, adapted to
the infant state of the plant when softened and disr
solved by the moistgre of the earth, which extends
and unfolds the young plant (or plumule) in the
same manner, as the nourishing juice in the eggs of
animals hatches their embryo. The seed-leaves,
therefore, contain a sugary juice, which is evident
from insects so greedily biting them, and their plea-
sant taste in sal lads, as those of turnips, cabbages^
&c. They are thick and succulent, calculated to
imbibe air and moisture from the atmosphere, for
the support of the tender plant, that might otherwise
suffer by drought : for it must proceed in growth, or
ft would quickly die. When the radicle has struck
downwards, the office of the seed is evidently to
nourish these leaves, as is seen by the seed coming
above the ground with them, exhausted of its sub-
Stance— a mere shell sticking to the top of the
leaves.

But some plants haye no seed-leaves properly so

16 CONCERNING SECT* It.

called, as corn; which has therefore been deemed
by some, not strictly a seed, but a bud, or bulb.

It has been doubted whether all plants have seedy
because some sorts have not been observed to produce
it'*' To conclude that they have, is however more
agreeable to the uniformity of the divine procedure,
and altogether to our reason.

Seed may be conceived so- small as not to be dis-
cerned even with the help of convex glasses, as we
know there are many not discernible without them ;
and with this minuteness, it may be extremely fuga-
cious by its slight adhesion to the plant.

The truth is, GOD originally ordained that plants
should proceed from seed, and they do, (Gen. i. 2.)
It was long said, that fern bare no seed; but this is
a demonstrable mistake. That Mushr&tttis produce
seed, we need not doubt. Many of the mosses are so
small in the state of plants, that the microscope only
can discover their flowers, -and even in some, the
plants themselves are but barely thus discernible/ A
great variety of seeds are waited about continually
in the air, and produce their kind, whenever they
light upon. a proper matrix. Whatever has been
objected there appears good ground for believing,
that there is no natural production, either in the ve-
getable or animal kingdom, but what comes from the
seed, or egg of some parent i equivocal generation
we reject.

As to certain plants appearing where none were
before, we know that some seeds will keep many
years, when deep buried, and being afterwards
brought to the surface, have vegetated, as the wild
mustard, Sec. Besides the wind carrying some sorts
of seeds to a considerable distance, birds also drop
a great many, so that plantations of oaks, &c. have
sprung up by means of crows carrying the acorns,
and dropping them in cracked ground.

fc£CTb If. VEGETATION 17

PLANTS follow seed, and we find them proceed-
ing in a steady unceasing progression towards ma-
turity, to their destined end, i. e. production of the
like, from which they sprung (seed) to preserve the
species. And the economy of nature is so regular,
that a certain portion of time is invariably kept (al-
lowing for accidental circumstances) for this business.
So certainly does Nature pursue her end in all re-
spects, that the identical species is always preserved,
as to the distinguishing properties of each, though
the soils in which seeds are sown are so various.
Altogether under the same circumstances are pro-
duced sweet things arid bitter, the nourishing corn,
the salutary and the poisonous plant, though differ-
ing much in strength, in figure, and other particulars.

The juices in the vessels of plants undergo (ac-
cording to their conformation) differentfermentations,
and thus become altered ; in which chemistry of
nature, its powers and results are wonderfully exact,

Peculiar pores peculiar juice receive ;
To this deny, to that admittance give ;
Hence various trees their various fruits produce,
Some for delightful taste, and some for use ;
Hence sprouting plants enrich the plain and wood,
For physic some^ and some designed for food ;
Hence fragrant flow'rs with different colours dy*d,
On smiling meads unfold their gaudy pride.

BLACKMORE.

The ROOTS of plants are to keep them fixed irt
the earth, and to draw food from it ; which they do
(chiefly at least) by their ends which have been there-
fore called mouths : In general they affect an hori-
zontal growth, for the benefit of the sun and air,
and never descend above a certain depth from the
surface.

By means of the root, nourishment proceeds
through the pipes and capillary conduits of plants>

C

IS COyCERNING? SECT. 1*1

continually from the earth, and by the action of the '
sun and air, circulates, rarifies, and distributes itself.
This juicy food, swells the little bags, or cells (of
ivhich the substance of plants is composed) and fol-
lowing the different modifications thereof, filtrates
athwart the parts. For example, That which is.
most pure and fine, serves to nourish the flowers and
fruits ; that which is not supplies the branches, and
leaves, and roots \ the most gross and earthy serves
for the bark ; and the most oily is for gum and rosm.
Just the same as we find it in animah, where the
food they receive into the stomach passes afterwards,
into the bl6odr circulates into the vessels, and pursu-
ing its different degrees of attenuation, serves to>
nourish the different parts of the body.

The STEMS or trunks of plants are for the support
of the head, and to convey juices from the roots
upwards for the leaves,, branches, &c. and are com-
posed (as the roots) of bladders, and various con-
duits for air, sap, &c. perpendicular, spiral,- and
horizontal from the pith to the bark. These vessels-
may be somewhat seen with the naked eye, as in
slices of the young shoots of nut, apple-tree, and
vine, but very evidently by a microscope. It is ob-
servable, that some plants which are weak and pipy
have knots at proper distances to strengthen them,
and others have daspers to hold them up ; while
others are robust enough in stem to brave the fury
of a tempest.

The LEAVES of plants are very variously, but
beautifully constructed in their form and substance *
and if we consider them as attracting nourishmepfc
from the root and the atmosphere, and as perspiring
and respiring, they are (more than commonly tliought)
essential to vegetation ; and so wre find thai if the
Stems, or branches of a plant, are considerably de-
prived of them, it becomes stunted and diseased,
3

SECT. II.r VEGETATION. 1?

and if any fruit appear, it proceeds slowly in growth,
and is ill flavoured. The quantity of nutriment
which a plant derives from the earth, is in propor-
tion to the number and size of its leaves; thus that
they may uninterruptedly perform their offices, they
are distributed in a very distinct and separate mode.

The under and upper part of leaves are different,
snd have separate offices ; the under is rough and
porous, as if adapted to imbibe the rising moisture
of night dews ; and the upper, or closer, to exclude
the grosser, parts of the atmosphere, and to imbibe
some finer food, as to " draw the live ether." Thus
leaves will not endure to be reversed, as is seen by
the certain and quick return to their right position,
when forced from it, and till this is effected, they
perform not the proper functions of nature.

That the glossy surface of leaves have an intimate
connection with the light is evident, as they rise and
fall (in a degree, some plants more and others less)
as the sun moves. If they are turned from the light
they twist themselves towards it, as if they had en-
joyment, and were conscious of the benefit — The
• curious will meet with gratification relative to this
subject, by consulting Hill's Tract On the Sleep of
Plants ; or his gardening for October : — See his
Eden, folio.

One of the offices of leaves, seems to be, to sub-
tilize, and give more 'spirit to the abundance of nou-
rishing sap, and to convey it to the little buds at their
foot stalk, to whose welfare they are essential.

If the texture of the leaves be scrutinized, they
are found curiously ramified ; the ribs and fibres of
each seeming much like a spreading plant. The
ramifications hold a close communication with each
other ; so that the principal rib sends out lateral
ones less strong, and they again an infinite number
^f fine ones in all directions ; and these are vessels

#0 CONCERNING. SJCCT, 1**

of two kinds, viz. for sap and air. As leaves throw
off a great deal of excrementitious, so do they iirt-
bibe a great deal of nutritious moisture, as is evident
from the general refreshments received from dews*
Yet we are not to conclude, that the other parts of
plants do not the same in a less degree ; and the
rough bark of the trees, and the outer vessels, are
well calculated to detain moisture, which it conveys
to other parts.

The BRANCHES of plants come next to be consi-
dered. How beautifully do they spread, and how
uniformly do they proceed, keeping up precisely the
same mode of growth, one from another throughout
the whole ; till the head of the plant, or tree, attains
its customary size, and own peculiar form ; which if
it has grown with native liberty, proves always of an
agreeable symmetry.

The texture of branches consists of the same kind
of vessels as the stem, or trunk ; but here it may be
observed, that there is yet a specific difference in the
vessels of the various parts, as i& concluded from
their affording juices of a different flavour and efflu-
via in the bark, wood, leaves, flowers and seeds ; so
that from the same plant are extracted medical pro-
perties of very contrary nature.

BUDS are like seeds, as they contain the future
growth of branches and fruit in miniature, so that
for instance, in the buds of a currant-tree may be
discovered (by a microscope) even before winter, the
woody branch, and the bunches of fruit. The future
fruit also has been viewed in the bud of a vine. In
the short buds of pears,, which appear at Midsun*-
mer, an indifferent microscope will shew the blossoms
designed for the April following. The buds of ft
Mezerion being examined at Midsummer have had
the blossoms discovered in them, though the time oi
their blow is not till February.

StCT. II." VEGETATION 9*

Thus it appears, that the leaves, blossoms, fruit,
aaid branches, on all trees, are formed the year before;
and so their fruitfulness in the year they bear, is no
otherwise the consequence of that season, than that
nature has gone on without any destructive check in
her progress, and particularly at the time of flower-
ing, when many blossoms are destroyed by inclement
weather, and by wet only as much as any thing.
#*##'##

The FLOWERS of plants have not yet been parti-
cularly noticed, but of them something must, and
inuch might, be said.

Go, mark the matchless workings of the power
That shuts within the seed the future jlover ;
Bids these in elegance of form excel,
In colour these, and those delight the smell ;
Sends nature forth, the daughter of the skies,
To dance on earth, and charm all human eyes.

COWPER.

Flowers have a general structure in substance,
similar to the other parts of plants, as to vessels for
sap, air, &c. only are so much the more exquisitely
formed, as the leaves are of so delicate a texture.
They are formed in the bud while in the pith, and so
consequently are the fruit and seed.

Thejfewer« of many proceed from a bud, or knot,
the leaves or parts of which do first cover the flower
contained therein, whilst it is yet unable to bear the
inconveniencies of the weather, and defend it from
the same ; and after the flower is blown, they keep
up its leaves, that they may not hang confusedly
together, but regularly represent their beauties to
the eyes of the beholders : This is exemplified ir>
the carnation. Those flowers that have a cup to
sustain their leaves, are weak in their texture, and
so need this support; but those that are strong have
ij aot, as lilies, tulips, &c. Those that have no cup

v^ CONCERNING SECT* IJ*

are, however, covered in the bud by some sheath, to
preserve them, while young, and yet too tender to
be exposed.

The leaves of flowers protect and conceal the seed
of those that bear it, where nature secretly works to
the great end of propagation. The seed is the natural
offspring of the flower, and when this is once well
formed, the several parts of the flower dwindle and
disappear. So that while we are admiring the colour,
shape, and perfume of these delightful companions
of our walks, they are kindly engaged to provide the
means of perpetuating pleasure to us.

The care which the AUTHOR of nature has taken
to preserve the seed of plants, by the flower leaves
which contain the embryo, as in a matrix, is admi-
rable ! The flowers themselves come not forth till
the season suits their particular temperament ; many
are hid till then under the coverture of the earth,
and those that dare to continue above ground all the
year, have yet their gems carefully locked up, and
thus their succession and their fruits are secured to
us,

The flowers of plants have a remarkable property,
when they begin to unfold, and the seed is yet young
and tender ; they observe the course of the weather,
day and night, opening and shutting their flowers
accordingly. There is also a property of some flower
plants, twining round solid bodies, or fixing them-
selves to them by claspers, laying fast hold of what
may be in their way. Flowers have many admirable
properties and parts, that might be considered dis-
tinctly, if it were designed to speak of them bota*
mcally.

From flowers (of which every month in the year
•has its beauties) we eventually gratify the palate, by
a valuable nectar, and from many we immediately
reap agreeable odours ; but it is for their colour to

SECT. IT, VEGETATION t$

delight. the eye, that we chiefly cultivate them; and
in this respect we may exclaim with the poet,

Who can paint like nature ? Can imagination boast

Amidst its gay creation, hues like hers?

Or can it mix them with that matchless skill,

And lose them in each other, as appears

la every bud that blows ?•

THOMSON*.

Not only the colours of Flowers delight the eye,
twt the forms are objects of admiration. The leaves
of the plants (not to mention the shades of their
.green and variegations) are of various symmetry,
some plain, others indented, some hard, some soft,
smooth, hairy, &c. Flowers are composed, some of
only one, others of several and numerous leaves.
Here it appears like a large vessel gracefully open-
ing. There it forms some grotesque figure, in imi-
tation of a muzzle, head piece, or cowl. . Here it is
a butterfly, a star, a crown, a radiant sun. Some
are scattered on the plant without any art ; others
compose nosegays, globes, tufts of feathers, garlands,
pyramids, £c. — The seeds of plants too are as va-
riously formed as their leaves and flowers, round,
square, angular, long, &c.

The following description of Flora's festival and
the month of May, may very well finish the notice
here taken vfjlowers.

The good Posthumius chose the first of May,
To FLORA sacred, and observed the day
With holy rural rites, that won by prayer
She might diffuse her blessing o'er the year ;
H is homely neighbourhood in green privet dress'd,
With strict devotion keep the cheerful feast,
And crowned with chaplets, to fair Flora bring
The first and freshest beauties of the spring.
Clardens are now with choice perfumes supplied,
% these and thousand nameless sweets beside;

fcf CONCERN i sre* SECT, nl

'Tis the gay month of all the youthful year.
When nature smiles serene, and calm the air ;
In the tall grass the soft Favonius plays,
And nightingales repeat their tuneful lays ;
The flocks too frisking o'er the flowery vale.
With eager joy the cheerful season hail.

RAPJfT.

Thus considering the works of nature, is it pos-
sible not to feel both concern and indignation at the
folly of Atheism, and the absurdity of the Atomic
philosophy ? Both have been well exposed by many
writers, arid completely so by Sir Richard Black-
more, in his poem on the Creation, from which though
some extracts have been already made, let the fol-
lowing be added,

-How dark is human reason found,

How vain the man with wit and learning crown'd;
How feeble all his strength when he essays
To trace dark nature, and detect her ways.
Unless he calls its AUTHOR to his aid,
Who ev'ry secret spring of motion laid,
Who over all his wond'rous works presides,
And to their useful ends their causes guides?
These paths in vain are by inquirers trod,
There's no philosophy without a GOD.
Th' ETERNAL MIND'S existence we sustain,
By proofs so full, by evidence so plain,
That none of all the sciences have shewn
Such demonstration of the truths they own.

Good heaven 1 that men who vaunt discerning sighfj,
And arrogant from wisdom's distant height,
Look down on vulgar mortals who revere "\

A CAUSE SUPREME, should their proud building f
rear, f

Without one prop the ponderous pile to bear! j*

Ye friends of Epicurus look around,

£11 nature view with marks of prudence crown'd,

TT. VEGETATION", 25

Mind the wise ends which proper means promote,
See how the different parts for different use are wrought ;
Contemplate all this conduct and design,
Then own, and praise, the ARTIFICER DIVINE!

For several of the foregoing observations, and
some of the passages on vegetation, Mr. M. thinks
ijt proper to. acknowledge, that he is indebted to the
excellent Mr. Derham, and others.

SECTION III.

OF THE FORMATION OF A GARDEN".

THE garden here meant, is one where vegetables,
fruits and flowers are cultivated under the same
inclosure. Considering the profit and pleasure to be
reaped from a good garden, it is certainly an object
of great consequence to the comfort of human life.
It will not, therefore, be prudent in any one who has
a garden to form, to be niggardly, either in allotting
ground for it, or sparing in ex pence and trouble to
prepare, and lay it out in the best manner.

The agreeable work of making a new garden can
happen to few ; and when it does, soil, situation, and
space, all favourable, are happy circumstances not
always at command : It often indeed happens, how-
ever, that pieces of ground are taken into use as
Additions, and some judgment should be exercised
in the choice, that the business may be well done.

To assist in resolving on the quantity of ground
it may be prudent to cultivate as a garden, a general
idea may be given in observing, that an acre with,
ty all-trees, hot beds, pots, &c. will furnish employ-

+6 OF THE FORMATION SECT, lit*

ment for a man, who at some busy times will need
assistance. The size of the garden should, how-
ever, be proportioned to the house, as to the number
of inhabitants it does, or may contain. This is na-
turally dictated ; but yet, it i is better to have too
much ground allotted -than too little, and there is
nothing monstrous in a large garden annexed to a
small house.

Some families use few, others many vegetables,
and it makes a great difference whether the owner
is curious to have a long season of the same produc-
tion, or is content to have a supply only at the more
common times. But to give some rules for the
quantity of ground to be laid out, a family of four
persons (exclusive of servants) should have at least
a rood of good working open ground, and so in
.proportion.

But if possible, let the garden be rather extensive
according to the family ; for then, a useful sprinkling
of fruit trees can be planted in it, which may be ex-
pected to do well, under the common culture of the
ground about them ; a good portion of it also may
be allotted for that agreeable fruit the strawberry in
all its varieties ; and the very disagreeable circum-
stance of being at any time short of vegetables, will •
be avoided. It should be considered also, that arti-
chokes, asparagus, and a long succession of peas and
beans, require a good deal of ground. Hot-beds will
also take up much room, if any- thing considerable
be done in the way of raising cucumbers, melons,
jlowers, &c.

The situation of a garden should be dry, but ra-
ther low than high, and as sheltered as can be from
the North and East winds. These points of the
compass, should be guarded against by high and
good fences; by a wall of at least ten feet high;
lower walls do not answer so well* for fruit-trees^

SECT. III. OF A GARDEN. , 27

though one of eight may do. A garden should be
so situated, to be as much warmer as possible, than
the general temper of the air is without, or ought to
be made warmer by the "ring, and subdivision fences :
This advantage is essential to the expectation we
have from a garden locally considered.

As to trees planted without the wall, to break the
wind, it is not to be expected to reap much good
this way, except from something more than a single
TOW ; i. e. a plantation. Yet the fall of leaves by
autumnal winds is troublesome, and a high wall is
therefore adviseable. Spruce jirs have been used in
close shorn hedges ; which as evergreens, are proper
enough to plant for a screen in a single row, though
not very near to the wall ; but the best evergreens foe
this purpose are the evergreen oak, and the cork tree.
The witch elm, planted close, grows quick, and has
a pretty summer appearance behind a wall ; but is of
little use then, as a screen, except to the West ; where
still, it may shade too much (if planted near) as it
jnounts high : In a dry hungry soil, the beech also is
very proper, and both bear cutting. The great maple,
commonly called the sycamore, is handsome, of quick
growth, and being fit to stand the rudest blasts, will
protect a garden well in a very exposed situation:
the wind to be chiefly guarded against^as to strength,
in most places, being the westerly.

Thejbrm of a garden may be a square, but an ob-
long is to be preferred ; and the area rather a, level ;
or if there be any slope, it should be southward, a
point either to the East or/Vest not much signifying,
but not to the North, if it can be avoided, because
crops come in late, and plants do not stand the winter
so well in such a situation. A garden with & northern
aspect, has, however, its advantages, being cooler for
some summer productions, as strawberries, spring-
gown cauliflowers, £c. and therefore to have a little

2S OF THE FORMATION SECT. Ill*

ground under cultivation so situated, is desirable;
especially for late succession crops.

The soil that suits general cultivation best, is a
loam; rather the red than the black; but there are
good soils of various colours, and this must be as it
happens : The worst soil is a cold heavy clay, and.
the next a light sand; a moderate clay, however, is
better than a very light soil, though not so pleasant
to work. If the soil is not good ; .i. e. too poor, too
strong, or too light, it is to be carefully improved with-
out delay. Let it first, at least, be thoroughly broke,
and cleaned of all rubbish, to a regular level depth
at bottom as well as top, so as to give about eighteen
inches of working mould, if the good soil will admit
of it; none that is bad should be thrown up for use,
but rather moved away. This rule of bottom level-
ling is particularly necessary when there is clay be-
low, as it will secretly hold up wet, which should
not stand in any part of the garden. When a piece
of ground is cleared of roots, weeds, stones, &c. it
would be of advantage to have the whole thrown
into two feet wide trenches* and lay thus as long as
conveniently may be. The ground cannot be too
well prepared; for when this business is not per-
formed to the bottom at first, it is often neglected,
and may not conveniently be done afterwards,; so it
happens, that barely a spade's depth (or less) is too
often thought sufficient to go on with. There is this
great advantage of a deep staple, that in the cultiva-
tion of it, the bottom may be brought to the top
every other year, by double trenching, and being thus
renewed, less dung will do, and sweeter vegetables
be grown : Tap-rooted things, as carrots and par*
sjiips, require a good depth of soil.

The aspect of a wall designed for the best fruits,
ipay be full South, or somewhat inclining to the East%
by which if will catch the sun's ravs at. its ris$,

§£CT. I1I> OF A GAXDEtf. fif

cold night dews be earlier and more gently dissi-
pated, and the scorching rays of the afternoon sum-
mer's sun are sooner off. liy thus having the walls
of a garden not directly to tlie four points, the North
wall is greatly advantaged, by having more sun.

The border next this wall should be of very good
earth, about two feet deep, rising a little towards the
wall. A free moderate loam, or some fresh maiden
soil, not too light, is necessary ; and if it is not natu-
rally there, let no trouble be spared to procure it, if it
can be had, so as to make all the borders promising
good ; and in order to this, if manure is necessary,
let it rather be that of rotted vegetables, or turf with a
small quantity of wood ashes, or a less of soot, or
salt; for the roots of fruit-trees should not meet with;
much dung, at least of horses ; that of cows is the
best, or that of sheep or hogs will do, well rotted,
and well mixed, £c. being worked in the borders, as
long as possible before the trees are to be planted.
Let the holes be some time opened beforehand, that
they may be improved by exposure to the atmosphere.
Thus due care will be taken, and all things ready to
go about the work of planting properly.

The corners for peaches, &c. cannot be too wide,
for in a few years the roots will spread a consider-
able way; and that they may do it without impedi-
ment of rubbish in the walks, and without meeting
with a bad soil, is of the greatest consequence to the
future health and fruitfulness of the trees.

If a garden is large and square, a second South
wall, running down the middle of it would be very
useful ; and so, if large and long, a cross wall or two-
might be adopted, as giving opportunity for the cul-
tivation of more trained fruit-tree* ; and if there is
any idea of forcing fruits, these intersecting walls,
ranging East and West, are proper for it (as situated
within the ring fence) furnished with dues, £c.

SO OF THE FOfcMAf It)tf SfeCT. Ilti

The £&tf fruit border being prepared for peaches,
nectarines and apricots, or p/«e<? and figs, the trees
should take their residence there (if the leaf is falling)
about the latter end of October,- or as soon after as
can be. If the middle of December be past, Fe-
bruary should be chosen, though some gardeners
plant ail winter, if the weather is open enough at the?
time to work the ground. March may do, or even
[upon a pinch] the beginning of April.

Wall-trees should not be older than two years from
grafting, or budding. Much disappointment has been
the consequence of planting old trained trees, through
their being accustomed (perhaps) to a contrary soil,
or by damage done the roots in taking the trees up;
and thus, instead of saving time, it has frequently
been lost, being obliged (after years) to be replaced
with young ones. But if trained trees are to be made
use of, let them be planted as early, and with as full
roots as possible, and in a right good soil. Except
in fine situations, as to sun, shelter, and climate,
never plant early and late peaches, as the first may
be cut off, and the latter not ripen : October peaches
are generally poor fruit much North of London.

The distance to plant should be about eight or nine
inches from the wall, and let apricots? peaches, and
nectarines be twenty feet asunder, more or less, ac-
cording to the height of the wall; though for the
small early sorts fifteen or sixteen feet will do. As
the larger apricots, however, grow freely, and do not
well endure the knife, they ought to have twenty-five
feet allowed them : This is for a wall of nine or teri
feet high ; if higher, the distance may be less, and if
lower, the contrary. This room may seem (to some)
too great; but when trees are planted in a conjined
space, after a few years it is troublesome to keep
them pruned within bounds; and the cutting they
must have, makes them run to wood, and thus to be-

SECT. III. OF A GARDEN. 31

come less fruitful. Fig-trees require as much room
as the apricot, or rather more, as they grow freely,
and are to extend without shortening. Though other
trees are best planted in October f the Jig should
hot be till' March.

The intermediate spaces between peaches, necta-
rines, and apricots, may have a vine, a dwarf-cherry,
or currant, or gooseberry-tree, of the early sorts, as-
the smooth green and small red,, to come in early;
and improved in the beauty, size, and flavour of their
fruit, by the advantage of situation. But whereso-
ever grapes can be expected to ripen, there let a
young plant, or cutting, be set, though the space be
confined : for the 'vine (freely as it shoots) bears ths
knife well to keep it within bounds. If the wall be
high, the cherry, or plum, may be half-standards,
which being after a while kept above, will be more
out of the way of the principal trees ; though dwarfs
may be trained so as not to interfere. Some have
planted half-standards of the same kind of fruit as
the dwarfs: but which ever way is used, let the inter-
mediate trees be pruned away below in good time,
in order to accommodate the principals freely as they
mount and extend. The better way however is, when
the wall is tolerably covered, to extirpate the inter-
mediate trees, as (when large) they impoverish the
border, and too much rob the principals of nutri-
ment: If taken up well, in season, and pruned pro-
perly, they may be planted elsewhere. Something
merely ornamental may occupy the vacancies also^
as some double -blossomed fruit-tree, passion- tree^
roses, &c. or in a fine situation, a pomegranate; any
of which may be removed when their room is wanted.
See section viii. On planting.

Plums, cherries, and pears, may occupy the other
walls,, the two former at about fifteen, or it may be>
twenty feet asunder. Cherries^ except the iMorclla,

32 OF THE FORMATION SECT, lit*

tvill not do well in a full North aspect; but any
sort of plum (rather a late one) and summer pears>
and also nut trees will, if you choose to train them*
There should always be some currants and goose-
berries in an E. and N. situation, at the distance of
eight feet, where they will be easily matted, (when,
ripe) to come in late, as October, November, or
perhaps December. Pear trees of free growxh are
hardly to be kept within tolerable compass on low
walls ; but if attempted, should have at least thirty
feet allowed them. The best sorts of winter pears
deserve a southerly wall to ripen them well, and im-
prove them in size and flavour: The gable end of a
house is well adapted for a pear tree, as it affords
room which they require. Apples may do on a wall,
(and if any on a good wall, Jet it be the golden pip*
pin) yet the practice is seldom adopted : The same
may be said of mulberries, though they eome to
bearing much sooner against a wall ; but they need
not have a South aspect, indeed it has been asserted,
that they do the best in a North one. For furnish-
ing walls, chuse trees' of moderate wood, rather than
strong, young, well rooted, clean, and healthy.

When implanting of a garden is finished, it will
be a good way to have a plan of it taken, with the
names of every peculiar tree marked thereon, in their
place, to be assured of the sorts when they come ta
bear. Some have the names of the trees painted on
boards, and placed behind them, to which if added
the time of ripening (fixed late enough) it would
tend to prevent a premature plucking by visitors, £c.

Here it may be observed, that if any evergreen
hedges are desired, in or about the garden, yew, box,
alaternus, cdastnis, phillyrea, and pyracantlia, may
be kept low, and clipped in form, it so desired : in
addition to which, if a few roses were intermixed, it
would have a pivtty effect. A deciduous hedge for

SECT. III. OF A GARDEN.

subdivision, or screen, &c. may be made of elms or
limes, setting the larger plants at -Ive feet asunder,
and a smaller one between. Or an ordinary fence,
or subdivision, may be quickly formed of elder cut-
tings, stuck in at two feet asunder, which may be
kept cut within bounds.

The walls come next under consideration, and they
are to be begun from the best wall ; the border of
which being regularly levelled and settled, the walk-
is to be governed by it. A wide border, next the-
South (as was said) is best for the trees, and more-
over for the many uses that may be made of it foe
the smaller early, or late tender esculents, and a few
early cauliflowers. For the sake of a pleasant shel-
tered walk, to have the South border narrow may be
desirable ; but on no account let it be within six feet.
Take care that this walk is not sunk too much, and
that it have a bottom of good earth, as deep as
where the trees are planted. Let the body of gra-
vel be thin, and then the roots of the trees will be
admitted to run properly under the walk, and find
wholesome nourishment ; where if they were stop-
ped by rubbish, they would be apt to canker, and
irrecoverably disease the tree.

The number and breadth of the walks must in a
measure be determined by the quantity of allotted
ground ; exceeding in these particulars where there
is room. But better be few and wide walks, than
many and contracted. If the garden is small, one
good walk all round is sufficient; and if long and
narrow, the cross walks should not be many : six,
or eight feet walks, are not too wide for a moderate
sized garden.

If the ground be laid out in Autumn, leave the
walks alone till Spring, when the earth will be set-
tled. Gravel laid towards Winter would be dis-
turbed by the frost, and the necessary work about the

34 OF THE FORMATION SECT. III.

queers and borders. But whenever made, the
garden ought to oe first brought to an exact level,
or slope ; then the walks should be stumpt, keeping
the tops of the stumps very level (as guides) to the
true pitch of the quarters by a light line, made of
good hernp, that will bear pulling tight Proceed
to take the earth out of the alleys about eight inches
deep, which may be thrown towards the middle of
the quarters, to give them a smalt convexity, which
ittakes them look well.

Rake the bottom of the walk level, and lay the
gravel to within two inches of the top of the stumps.
The gravel will settle a little, but the walks should
always be about three or four inches at their edge,
below the quarters, or these will have a flat, and
therefore a mean appearance.

If Edgings are to be formed, in order to separate
between the earth and gravel, especially if of
stone, .or wood, or box, they should be made first,
and. they will be a good rule to lay the walks by.

'If plenty of 'Gravel, lay it moderately fine: if
scarce, som§, small stones, or rubbish of any kind,
may be laid in first, and rammed down level with a
broad rammer ; but do not spare for a little expence,
for gravel if it can be had, as a thick coat of fine
gravel, will bear relaying, or turning over, to refresh
it occasionally in the spring. As the gravel is laid,
let the operator neatly rake the larger parts down to
the bottom leaving a fine surface, in a small degree
convex, i. e. just barely sufficient to throw off wet :
walks that lie high in the middle, are unpleasant to
both eye and feet, and cannot be so well rolled, and
kept in order.

When deep walks of gravel are designed, for the
sake of the mould dug out of the alleys, it should
be forborne, if any trees are designed to be planted
near the edge ; for if the roots of trees have not a

S£CT. III. OF A GARDEN. 35

good soil to strike into, when they reach the walks
they will not (as has been observed) prosper. In
laying gravel very thick, it is a good way to do it at
two courses ; the first of which may be rough as it
conies from the pit, yet still raking the larger parts
down, and then ramming or treading.it; and the
last course should be of all screened materials.

It is best to lay a few yards of gravel only at a
time, before ramming or treading ; after which it may
be necessary to go over it with a fine iron rake,
tooth and back ; and then a whole walk being fi-
nished, it should be repeatedly pressed with a mo-
derately heavy roller ; and again soon after the next
rain that falls : so will the walks become nicely level
and firm, in which their excellence consists.

Grass Walks may do where gravel is scarce ; but
the latter is so clearly preferable, that except for a
little variety in large gardens where there are many
walks, grass walks will hardly be made choice of, as
they are troublesome to keep in order; and if much
used, are apt to get bare, and out of level, especially
when narrow ; they are also frequently damp to the
feet.

Camomile has been used also to form green or
carpet walks, planting it in sets about nine or ten
inches asunder ; which naturally spreading, the run-
ners are fixed by walking on them, or rolling.

Sand may be adopted for walks, and there is a
binding sort of it, that does very well ; but lay not
any of it too thick, as it is the less firm for it. Drift
sand is a good substitute for gravel.

Coal Ashes strewed thinly in the alleys are better
than nothing, as they at least serve to keep the feet
dry and clean. If the garden be a -strong soil,
these ashes (when worn down) should be thrown out
of the walks, with a little of the earth, and will
prove a good manure for the quarters.

6 OF THE FORMATION SECT, lit,

Sea Shells make very good walks.

All trees designed to be planted, are to be thought
of before winter. Those of the wall have been
spoken of ; and as to standards they must have a
fair depth of good soil (not very dungy) to grow in,
for it should be remembered, that tree roots in a
garden are prevented from running over the surface,
as they do in an undisturbed orchard. It is neces-
sary that some caution should be used not to dig the
ground too near, and too deep about garden trees ;
lest loosening the roots, they should not be able to
stand the wind ; and because the nearer the surface
any root grows, the more and choicer fruit, the tree
bears.

But the fewer standard trees in a garden the bet-
ter, as they take up much room, and by their shade
prevent the proper growth of vegetables that are any
thing near them : so that if a garden is small, there
should be no trees except those of the wall. The
case is different where there is ample room ; and the
blossoms of fruit trees (apples particularly) are so
delightful, that if they produced nothing for the pa-
late, there would be a sufficient inducement to plant
them for ornament ; but let them rather be dwarf
standards than espaliers.

Dwarf -standards occasion less trouble to keep
them, in order than espaliers, and are (generally)
more productive; for Espalier trees are seldom ma-
naged well, and thus appear unsightly ; at best they
are stiff and formal, and obstruct the sight in viewing
the quarters of a garden, which (if neatly culti-
vated,) are worthy of coming under the eye : the
violence done to nature, to keep espaliers in form, is
commonly paid by pains aud disappointment. A
writer of repute observes, apples on French paradise
stocks, planted at, eight or nine feet distance, pruned
and kept in an easy manner, make a fine appearance,

SECT. III. OF A GARDEN. / 37

and produce better fruit, and in greater quantities,
than when they are in espaliers : Dutch paradise
stocks however last longer, and are altogether supe-
rior. For managing Dwarf trees, see Pruning.

If Espaliers are planted, let them be only fruit
of the best sorts, and in spacious gardens, where they
may have a good length and height allowed them to
grow freely ; and let it be resolved to do the business
neatly. If they may have nothing better than poles
or stakes to be trained to, let them at least be strait,
and of some equality in size, as to height and thick-
ness, smooth, and not too clumsy for the purpose ;
fix them well in the ground, upright, and about nine
inches asunder ; at first only four feet from the
ground, and raised as the trees advance in height.
.Apples on paradise stocks best suit for espaliers in
small gardens, and pears on quince stocks, as they
maintain a small size ; but they are apt to decay by
the cutting they must have, and so do not prove
enduring trees.

Espalier trees should rather be trained to sarccd
•materials properly framed together, smoothed and
painted. But for a year or two, they may be fas*-
tened to ordinary light stakes, when they will have
formed a head, to begin to train them for bearing in
the neat manner proposed ; i. e. to slips of deal
joined to light oak posts as trellises. Whether the
slips be placed perpendicularly, or longitudinally,
seems indifferent. If the longitudinal mode of train-
ing be the best approved, strong iron wire may be
recommended to run through the posts, instead of
slips of wood, as it shades less and is stronger and
neater. If upright slips are used, they should be
slender, and from six to eight inches distance, ac-
cordiqg to the greater or less freedom of the natural
growth of the tree. The height may be also accord-
ing to the nature of the tree, from five to six feet;

38 OF THE FORMATION SECT. III.

and it will not answer to have them lower. Only
a moderate length of trellis (on each hand) need be
fixed at first, and so additions made as the tree ex-
tends. The posts may be about four feet asunder,
tUe first on each hand being two feet, from the stem
of the tree, and afterwards a yard from each other.

Apples should be allowed twenty-four feet and
pears thirty ; except those grafted on paradise or
quince stocks, for which little more than half this
distance may do. Cherries and Plums should have
about eighteen or twenty feet allowed them. Quin-
ces, medlars, mulberries, midjilberds may also be
espaliered in large gardens. The trees should be
planted about a yard from the edge, but farther off
were better, if the walks lie deep of gravel or poor
materials.

The Breda, and Brussels apricots, have succeeded
in espaliers, as also in dwarf and full standards ; but
the general climate of the place must be mild, and
the situation they are planted in must be very sunny
and well sheltered : The fruit from standard apri-
cots is very fine, and abundant ; but they come not
to bearing under several (sometimes ten or twelve)
years,

Currants, gooseberries and raspberries, do \vell
espaliered, as to a production of early and fine fruit.

Trees si a more humble nature, and shrubs, next
occupy attention in furnishing a garden. Currants
and gooseberries (as bushes) should be planted three
feet from the edge, and full six feet asunder. Some
of these very useful shrubs should grow in every
aspect of the garden, in order to have a succession
of their Truits, as long as may be. Those who
choose to plant whole quarters of currants and
gooseberries, ought to do it at six feet asunder in the
rows, and the rows eight feet from one another,
keeping them well pruned.

SECT. HI. OF A GARDEN.

Raspberries may be set in plantations, in rows five
feet asunder allowing three feet between the plants.
Though these shrubs are best by themselves, yet
here and there by the walks a detached bunch may
be kept, or here and there one against a warm wall.
Between rows of raspberries planted at the above
distance, coleworts, early cabbages, cauliflowers, and
lettuces may be set, or spinach sowed in drills, the
raspberries having had their pruning and dressing
early in Autumn, for the purpose. Every year a
little short manure, dug in close about the roots,
(and deeper as the plantation gets older) will insure
fine fruit. Raspberries, though good and open be
best, are not very nice as to soil and situation ; but
the twice bearing sort should have a dry soil and warm
birth to forward the crops, that the last may be in
time : See that the plants to be set have good brushy
roots, and two or three eyes to each root near the
stems, for the next year's bearing. The smooth
wooded, or cane rasp, is to be preferred for a prin
cipal crop.

Strawberries may be planted at the edges of bor-
ders arid quarters, either in single or double rows,
(rather the latter) for tha convenience of gathering,
and for ornament ; but the common and best way is,
in four feet beds, with eighteen inch or t\vo feet al-
leys, on which beds may be five rows of the wood,
and Alpine, four of the scarlet and pine-apple, three
of the Carolina, and two of the Chili ; setting the
plants at the same distance in the rows, as the rows
are from one another in what is called the quincunx
order. In a good, cool, loamy soil, which suits them
best, a little more distance may be allowed the four
first sorts; and in quite a dry light soil, somewhat
less, that they may shade one another the better from
drought.

The best situation for strawberries is an open and

40 OF THE FORMATION SECT. Ill,

sunny one, as thus they bear more, and finer fla-
voured fruit. Some of the scarlets should be planted
under warm walls to come early. The woods bear
shade as natural to them, and the alpines do tolerably
well in it: As lengthening the season of fruit is a
desirable circumstance ; for these three sorts (at
least) the situation should be various.

The most proper time for planting the strawberry
is \hejirst moist weather in September, (or even
earlier) that they may be established in the ground
before winter, and they will bear the better the first
year ; Frost is apt to throw up late planted ones,
and injures, if not destroys them. Those planted
in spring often suffer from drought, and bear very
little the first year, except the alpines : Choose for-
ward runners for planting, and let them be from beds
in full bearing, i. e. pf two or three years old ; for
plants from old beds are npt so fruitful : Take care
also they come from be,ds producing fruit good in its
kind, and true as to sort; Much depends on this,
see Nursery. Press the mould to the roots, give
them a watering, and again once or twice, if the
weather proves dry. Some gardeners let them run
over the beds, which in a dry light soil, may be pro-
per; but in this case, a greater distance should be
allowed them at planting.

If the alpine sort be planted on a warm border,
eighteen inches asunder, and suffered to spread, the
first runners will fruit the same year, and sometimes
this prolific strawberry bears till November.

Fresh plantations of strawberries should be made
every fourth year, though in a good soil, and with
good management they will continue longer ; so that
where they are suffered to run, the plants being fre-
quently looked over, and old ones removed, beds
have borne tolerably for ten years. In a dry sea-
gon, such full covered beds have the advantage ;

SECT. III. OF A GARDEN. 41

but in a wet one, the fruit is apt to rot, though still
in such a season, it is cleaner than from plants grow-
ing in an open way ; but this carries the appearance
of, (and rather argues) neglected culture. See the
sections, nursery, pruning, and fruits. The method
of keeping them in detached plants produces the
largest and best ripened fruit, and on the whole is
preferable; for which practice there cannot be a
stronger argument, than that those follow it, who
cultivate the strawberry for sale. See section 17.

The watering of strawberries should riot be neg-
lected, doing it almost daily when in flower and set-
ting their fruit, if the weather proves dry, particu~
larly to those under a warm wall which should by
some means be shaded. When the fruit is nearly
ripe watering should be discontinued, which would
spoil the flavour, and dispose it to decay.

Flowering Shrubs may be dispersed about, and
herbaceous perennial flowers ; but plant them not too
near the edge, lest they hang over the walks : The
bulbous sorts may however be within six inches.

Asparagus and artichokes should be thought of,
but they take up much room, and in small gardens
may therefore be left out. It will be of little use to
have less than fifty or sixty feet of asparagus beds,
as there would be so few heads to cut at a time ;
and artichokes must be planted wide, or they will
not grow large and fleshy, in which their merit
consists.

Let not pot herbs be forgot, but provide a general
lierbary in that part of the garden which is most
contiguous to the kitchen.

Having spoken of stationary things, the routine,
of the seasons must dictate the rest; and the inclina-
tiuns of the palate will refresh the memory to take
care of providing the most necessary and agreeable
esculents for dressing, and raw sallads.

42 OF TH£ FORMATION SECT. III.

Perennial flowers have been mentioned ; but let
fancy direct as many annuals and biennials to be
cultivated, as room can conveniently be found for,
that the garden may be, as much as possible, or-
namented.

In furnishing a garden with shrubs and flowers,
respect should be had to their usual height, their
bulk, colour and season, (see section 19.) that the
mixture may be properly varied, harmonious to the
eye, and come in regular succession. The latter
end of the year is seldom provided for so well as it
might be ; late flowers should be set in warm situa-
tions, as their proper place. In the most dreary
months, by judicious planting, evergreens in their
neat and cheerful " winter liveries," may be viewed
from our windows, and serve instead of flowers, and
some of them bear pretty fruit.

Those who garden upon a large scale, should take
care to have every thing proper and convenient libe-
rally provided. Let there be a well situated place
for hot-beds, with some building as a tool house, and
(if dry) for keeping bulbs, seeds, and herbs. Those
also who garden even upon a small scale will do well
to have every needful implement : It is the way to
save time and labour, and have work done well.

If water can be introduced, and kept clean with
verdant banks around it, it would be found very use-
ful where a garden is large : but let it be as near the
center as possible, being the most convenient situa-
tion. It should be fed from a spring, and (if it
could) be made to drip in the reservoir, because its
trickling noise is agreeable music in a garden to most
ears.

Mixed Gardening, as comprehending the useful
with the sweet — the profitable with the pleasant, has
been the subject hitherto; but if the flower garden
and the kitchen garden are to be distinct things, the

SECT. III. " Of A GARDEN". 43

case is altered ; not so much indeed, but that still the
kitchen garden should be adorned with a sprinkling
of the more ordinary decorations, to skirt the quar-
ters, chiefly those of the^most powerful sweet scents,
as roses, sweet-briars, and honey-suckles, wall-flowers,
stocks, pinks, minionet, &c. in order to counteract the
coarser effluvia of vegetables, or of dead leaves,
which, however, should not be suffered to annoy, by
laying on the ground.

Thejlorver garden (properly so called) should be
rather small than large ; and if a separate portion
of ground be appropriated for this, only the choicest
gifts of Flora should be introduced, and no trouble
spared to cultivate them in the best manner. The
beds of this garden should be narrow, and conse-
quently the walks numerous ; and not more than one
half, or two thirds the width of the beds, except one
principal walk all round, which may be a little wider.
The gravel (or whatever the walks are made of)
should lie about four inches below the edge. The
beds for tulips, hyacinths, anemonies, ranunculuses,
&c. may be three and a hal£ or four feet wide, and
those for single flowers the same, or only two and a
half feet wide in the borders ; which was the most
usual breadth in the old flower gardens. Let the
beds lie rather rounded in the middle, but the walks
flat, being so narrow.

Figured parterres have got out of fashion, as a
taste for open and extensive gardening has prevailed ;
but when the beds are not too fanciful, but regular
in their shapes, and chiefly at right angles, (after the
Chinese manner) an assemblage of all sorts of flow-
ers, in a fancy spot of about sixty feet square, is a de-
lightful home oource of pleasure, worthy of pur-
suit. There should be neat edgings of box to these
beds, or rather of neat inch boards, painted lead
colour, to keep up the mould. Be sure to keep the

44 OF, THE FORMATION SECT. III.

box from the very first (as soon as rooted) and al-
ways after, as low as possible : Clip it twice a year,
April and July.

An ORCHARD may be spoken of here; i. e. a
spot to plant standard fruit trees in, which are for-
bidden a place in the garden ; but it must not be a
small spot. The front row, should be half stancU
ards, or before these may be a row of dwarfs ; ob-
serving to plant the most towering sorts (in kind)
of the full standards behind. The ground should
be dug thoroughly as low as the proper soil is, and
if not naturally good, let it be improved by dung
duly rotted, and worked well in a full spade deep,
In a strong soil, lime should make a part of the ma-
nure. If the ground be naturally uneven, it will not
be proper to level it, as this would rob the higher
parts, and needlessly enrich the lower. A strong
cool soil does best for an orchard, but it must not
be wet. If it holds up water, it should be well
drained by deep covered trenches.

A piece of ground designed for an orchard, would
be greatly improved by first cultivating it deeply
as a kitchen garden for a year or two, manuring
well at the time : Or, give it a good tillage ; let it
have a winter's frost, by deep trenching into high
ridges, turned over in spring, and summer fallowed.
The trees being planted, at proper distances, the
ground may be kept under some sort of crop, for
several years to come, with some annual dressing,
In a large orchard, the plough may be used for corn,
potatoes, carrots, £c. If the soil is poor, frequent
opportunity should be taken to give it a little ma-
nure, that there may be proper food prepared for
the roots, as they extend. No doubt many orchards
wpuld bear much better, if the whole ground (as,

SECT. III. OF A GARDEN. 45

the roots extend far) were before winter (jug or
ploughed over every second, or third year, and
dressed, by digging in some rotten dung, or sprink-
ling over the whqle (when rough dug) soot and
pigeon's dung, or that of any other poultry; th'is
will wash in by rains and snows, and do much good.
Or if an orchard were ploughed, or rough dug, every
year, immediately after the fall of the leaf without
manuring, it would be very beneficial ; for it is not
adviseable to give trees much dung ; a little lime only
surface dug is good.

The thinning of the branches of orchard trees,
by an occasional use of the saw, bill, chizzel, or
knife, should not be neglected, that the air may have
free course, and the sun access among the branches :
This is more especially necessary in thick planted
orchards, and the benefit of proper pruning is very
great, though it is much neglected ; but after the
saw always smooth the part neatly. See pruning
of Standards, Section 12.

To succeed well, apples and pears should be
planted from thirty to forty feet asunder, and cher-
ries and plums from twenty to thirty, according to
the richness of the land. The walnut should be
rather planted singly ; but if in a number together,
ought to be forty feet asunder for fruit, and thirty
for timber. See Nursery. These distances appear
great, but it is necessary, as after a few years closer
planting would be found evident. See planting and
pruning, Sect. 9, 12.

If the intermediate ground is not cultivated, as
before recommended, some sort of fruit (as cherry,
plum, or codling') or young forest trees may be
planted, to be removed in time ; or currants, goose-
berries, &c. it may be kept also in grass, the trees
thorned, and small cattle turned in ; which grass, as
it comes early, will be found particularly useful to

46 OF THE FORMATION SECT. IV.

those* who have much stock. On this subject, how-
ever, it may not be amiss to give the instructions of
one of our best gardeners.

It is an error (says he) to let turf cover the sur-
face of the ground in an orchard. The trees should
be at such distances, that a plough may go between
them, and in that case the trees thrive every way
better ; the breaking of the ground serves as manure
without its rankness, and the sun and air have free
passage, which is very essential to the good taste and
well ripening of the fruit. Where the plough canr
not be used, dig the ground a full spade deep, pick-
ing out the roots of weeds.

The best manure for an orchard, is a mixture of
two parts well rotted dung and one part coal-soot.
Let this be blended carefully, and spread all over
the ground, between the trees, not piled up in heaps
just about their stems, according to the old practice.

The cultivation of the ground about the trees in
an orchard, is more neglected' than any other part of
the gardener's business, yet there is not any thing
more necessary. Hill.

SECTION IV.

OF THE CULTIVATION OF A GARDEN.

THE cultivation of a garden includes the doing all
those things that are necessary, in order to a reason-
able and prolific production of the various vegeta-
bles, fruits and flowers, we are disposed to propa-
gate.

SECT. IV. OF A GARIXEy, 47

The soil must be first attended to, always to keep
the fruit borders in heart, and the quarters in a
proper state for use, when called upon to receive
either seeds or plants. Ground should never lie
long"without stirring ; for the soil of a garden, should
be in a free, sweet, and rich state, by proper dig-
ging, &c. or no great things can be done, as to for-
ward, handsome, or well flavoured productions. It
should be free, that the roots of plants may not be
impeded in the quest of food ; sweet, that the food
may be wholesome ; and rich, that there may be no
defect of nutriment.

Trenching the vacant ground in a garden, does
good to all soils in the autumn and winter seasons,
and that in proportion to its strength being indis-
pensibly necessary for clays to separate and ame-
liorate the parts : The li^ht soils may do by being
only rough dug, which is a method that stronger
soils will be also benefited by. The soil would be
still farther improved, by re-trenching, or rough-
digging, once or twice more in the winter, if the
opportunity offers, particularly if strong or stubborn.
Let the ridges lie E. and W. except the ground be a
slope, when they may be in the direction that does.

When manure is applied, the ground is not to be
glutted with dung; for a little at a time, well-rotted,
is sufficient, so that it comes often enough, as oppor-
tunity, and the nature of the cropping may dictate.
It is indeed a sort of rule with gardeners, that
groand should be dunged every second year ; but
circumstances may make more or less of it necessary,
and rules should never be indiscriminately applied.
If dung is pretty well reduced (as it were to earth)
much less will do, and let it not be buried too deep ;
but if it is otherwise, lay it low, to be dug upwards
another time, when it is more consumed.

It is an excellent way of manuring, where the
.5

48 OF THE CULTIVATION SECT. IV.

superficial soil is much exhausted, to dig slightly,
and spread over rotten dung, late in autumn, in the
winter, or early in spring, and so let it remain, till
the ground is wanted, before it is dug in ; which
should however be slightly dug before the manure is
put on, or forked in a little afterwards. This method
is particularly to be recommended where crops of
onions, leeks, and such superficial rooting plants are
to be.

Dung used in great quantities, and lying in lumps,
breeds worms, grubs, and insects, and makes plants
grow too rampant and rank flavoured. Carrots it
cankers, and it disagrees with many things ; apt
also to make the ground parch, and burn the crops
sown upon it in a hot summer. On these accounts
some persons have been induced to dress their gar-
dens only with rich fresh earth ; which, if they do not
overcrop, will do very well, being accompanied with
good tillage ; which alone is of much use and is
essential to due cultivation. Vegetables are always
sweeter, the less dung is used, and little need DQ
used, when the natural soil is good and deep ; for
the earth may be so dug, that what is at the top one
year may be at the bottom the next : which is a
manoeuvre evidently advantageous, as a good part of
the strength of the top soil washes downwards : The
method just recommended, of letting dung lie on the
surface tor a time, is good also, as it abates the rank-
ness of it : Lime sweetens.

If the ground is in proper heart, every spot may
be contrived to be constantly and successively crop-
ped. The common gardeners about London, and
other great towns, who give high rents for their land^
contrive (manuring well) a succession of crops, one
under another very dexterously; and this sort of
conduct should be imitated by private persons. Thus
a little spot, in skilful and industrious hands, shall

SECT. IV. OF A GARDEN- 49

be much more productive than a much greater under
contrary management : But when hard worked, the
soil will not do without a good deal of dung well
broke.

A caution in cropping must be observed, that
plants grow not crowding thick, which defeats the
end in view; and be sure not to let fruit borders be
much cropped ; furnish them chiefly with small
plants, of short duration, and superficial growth,
lest the roots of the trees be too much robbed and
shaded.

Have an eye on vacant ground, either for imme-
diate use, or to prepare it for future.

In the occupation of ground, the change of crops ,
will be proper, as each sort of plant draws a some-
what different nourishment : so that after a full crop
of one thing, one of another kind may often be im-
mediately sown ; but it should be contrived that a
wide crop may follow a close one, and contrariwise.
Close crops, as onions, leeks, carrots, &c. are con-
veniently and neatly cultivated in beds of from four
to five feet widths, with alleys of a foot to eighteen
inches between them.

The seasons proper for furnishing the ground with
every particular vegetable, should be well attended
to, that each may be obtained as early as its nature
will permit ; and of the seeds and plants we use,
care must be taken to procure the best of the kind,
lest after all the trouble of cultivation, disappoint-
ment as to vegetation or quality should ensue.

The quantity sown and planted is (in a degree) to
be determined by the portion of ground than can be
spared ; but it should be always a rule, to sow and
plant more than probably enough for the family, as
more may happen to be wanted than expected, and
a cross season or other accident, may occasion a
failure. As exact rules cannot be laid down, the

E

50 OF THE CULTIVATION SECT. IV.

exercise of a \\tt\eju4gment will be necessary, in
order to proportion crops aright; for to have too
much of one thing, and too little of another, is dis-
agreeable, and discreditable. Respect should be
paid to the natural duration of crops, some going
off soon, and others being lasting, and that too ac-
cording to the season they are propagated in. See,
Of propagation, in the next section*

Seeds and plants should be adapted as much as
possible to the soil and situation which best suits
them ; for in the same garden some difference will
be found, not only as to sun and shelter, but the
earth ; as some will be richer, some poorer, some
deeper, some shallower, and some (perhaps) heavier,
some lighter, in due attention to which, advantage is
to be reaped.

Let the ground really on all occasions be well
dug.

Weeding in time is a material thing in culture,
and stirring the ground about plants ; earthing up
also where necessary, must be attended to ; and in
some cases pressing the mould to the stems of vege-
tables will be proper, for their better support. This
work done well before winter frost sets in, preserves
plants, forwards, and improves them. Weeds ex-
haust the strength of the ground, and if they are
suffered to seed and sow themselves, may be truly
called, " garden sins :" The hand and hoe are the
instruments for the purpose ; and where the trouble
is not too much, the former will generally be the
best, when it is not thought necessary to stir the
ground ; which indeed may be done afterwards, when
all is clean, to better purpose. Digging, where the
spade can go, between the rows ot plants is a good
method of destroying weeds, and as it cuts off tht
straggling fibres of growing roots, they strike afresh,
ia numerous new 'shoots* to the great benefit of the

SECT. IV. OF A GARDEN. 51

plants. Deep hoeing gives a degree .of fertility to
the earth, as breaking the surface keeps the soil in
health ; for when it lies in a hard or bound state,
enriching showers run off, and the salubrious air
cannot enter.

The thinning of seedling crops should be done in
time, before the young plants have drawn one ano-
ther up too much. All plants grow stronger, and
ripen their juices better, when the air circulates
freely round them, and the sun is not prevented
from an immediate influence ; an attention to which
should be paid from the first appearance of plants
breaking ground.

In thinning close crops, as onions, carrots, turnips,
&c. be sure' that they are not left too near, for in-
stead of reaping a greater produce, there would be
a less. When they stand too close, they will make
tall and large tops, but are prevented swelling in
their roots; better to err on the widt side, for though
there are fewer plants they will be finer and better
flavoured.

In the pricking out and planting out of crops, be
sure to do it as early as may be ; let every thing be
regular, (not sparing to use the line) allowing always
room enough for this work ; and being thus treated,
vegetables will come forwarder, larger, and altoge-
ther of a superior quality. This will be seen in ail
things, but in carrots and lettuces particularly, which
often have not half the room allowed them they
should. Over cropping robs the ground of stie igta
to no purpose, except increasing the dunghill ; it
makes it also inconvenient to weed, rake arid clean
up, which in a private garden especially, it is proper
frequently to do.

Dibble planting, as being easy and expeditious, i^
the common way of setting out plants ; but (except

52 OF THE CUXTIT-ATlOtf SECT. IV.

indeed quite small ones) they are best put in by a
small spade or trowel. In the former method,, the
roots are frequently distorted, so as to receive a
check, if not to occasion a failure, when so put out
towards winter ; but in the latter way the roots lie
free and easy, and presently establish themselves in
health and strength : There is more in this than
gardeners in general allow of. Let ground designed
to be planted, be dug a day or two before wanted.

Watering is a thing of some importance in culti-
vation, though not so much as many make it. It is-
a moot point, whether more harm than good is not
•on the whole, done by it, when it is thought generally
necessary in a dry season. In a large garden, it is-
an Herculean labour to water every thing, and so-
the temptation generally prevails either wholly to-
neglect it, or to do it irregularly or defectively. To
water nothing is too much on the dry side : but there
is such a thing as watering too much, which spoils
the flavour, and makes esculents less wholesome.

But watering will assuredly benefit some things -T
as (sparingly) new planted trees, flowers and vege-
tables. Watering is of use to settle the earth about
the roots of plants removed, for it is by a close
union, (as it were) of the earth with them, that they
prosper. The watering of new planted things may
be to be repeated, but it should not be done very
often, as it is then apt to sicken, and rot the young
roots : When they are believed to have got hold ot*
the ground, desist from watering; but when any
plant is towards flowering then moisture is more,
necessary,

Shading of new planted things, particularly flowers,
is of much benefit, and that in proportion as the sea-
son is sunny. So that the imitating a cloud by a shade,
w evidently proper, and frequently necessary to the,

SECT. IV. OF A GARDEN. 53

life of the plant, as neglecting this busines has fre-
quently proved, as a little water in a cloudy time
does plants much good, so when shaded, water.

Strawberries and Cauliflowers should generally be
watered in a dry season ; strawberries more parti-
cularly when in bloom, in order to set the fruit; and
the cauliflowers, ,when they shew fruit, in order to
swell the head : In a light soil this ought unremit-
tingly to be done. In very dry weather, asparagus
seedlings, early turnips, carrots, radishes, and small-
•sallads will need an evening watering. Slips, cut-
tings, and layers of any kind will need some water.
Pots of flowers must have it frequently, and the
smaller the oftener.

Water to the bottom and extent of the roots, as
much as may be. The wetting only the surface of
the ground is of little use, and of some certain harm,
as it binds and cracks the earth, and so excludes the
benefit of showers, dews, air and sun, from entering
the soil, and benefitting the roots as they otherwise
would do. Wetting the surface of the ground,
(however) in a summer's evening, as it makes a cool
atmosphere, a dew is formed, which pervades the
leaves, and helps to fill their exhausted vessels.

Watering the roots of wall-trees, (if dry weather)
when the fruit is setting, is by some thought neces-
sary. The best way to do this effectually, is to
make a few holes at some distance from the tree
with a smooth sharp pointed stake, the better to let
the water down; but this may wound the roots, and
should only be practised in a light soil, and very
dry season. To young trees only it can however be
of use, for the roots of old ones run far and wide :
and it is the small fibres of these distant roots, on
which the tree chiefly depends for food. Vines
should have no water till they are off blossom,
(July) and the fruit as big as laj-ge pins heads ; and

4 OF THE CULTIVATION" SECT. IV.

then if the season be very hot and dry, watering the
roots twice a week will help the fruit to swell.

An engine to water the leaves of vines, and all
other wall trees in a summer evening, refreshes them
much,, and helps to rid the trees and wall of insects
and filth. Late in the summer, when the nights
begin to get cold, it is time to leave off* all watering,
except things in potSj audjrames, which should have
it then only in the morning, As watering is apt to
make ground hide-bound and unsightly, let the sur-
face be occasionally stirred and raked, which will
make future waterings enter the ground the better :
when the ground is hard on the top, the water runs
away from its proper place, and half the labour i$
lost, Many things are impatient of being kept wet
about the shanks, and therefore watering should be
(generally) at a little distance.

The quality of water used for refreshing plants is
a material thing, and it is very various in its nature,
according to the peculiar earths and mineral sub-
stances, that it passes through. Rain water is by
far the best, as appears by the verdure and vivacity
it gives : It is nourishing, as being full of vegetable
food.

River water is ne,xt in fitness, and pond water
follows. Wtll w^ter is of least account, though
local circumstances occasion its use the most. Sp
that in forming a judgment concerning watering, it is
not simply to be considered, whether plants should
be watered ; but whether with well water, and that
too from a pump. Pump water, if used directly
(to say nothing of it's hardness) is so cold in summer,
that the roots feel an extreme sensation ; for as they
are then warm, through a lively fermentation in the
earth, great cold so contracts their vessels, that they
perform their proper offices with difficulty, an^ teh
come diseased.

4

SECT. IV. OF A GARDEN. •$$_

Hard water is softened by throwing in .a little
dung, lime, marie, or earth, and rather that of a
loamy nature, or clay, which will greatly- fit it for
use. Some persons keep chalk in wells, ••ciste'rns,
&c. to soften the water ; and others have kept hard
water on bruised oyster-shells a few \days in a -tub*
with a view to watering flowers, £c. others have, put
a bag of barley in it, finding the wate* ,that has been
used in malting, is rendered very soft, though ever:
so hard when put on the grain. Fresh bran softens
\vater much, stirring it up now and then tor;
two. 1 At any rate, however, let , hard water
exposed to the sun and air, as long .a&iuay be;;
few hours will improve it, but a few <Ja\g will
qualify it for vegetation. /TTUJ > ii,; rij? s. vis ?.

Water is sometimes enriched withxlungs and. salts:
Some experiments of putting a .small quality vpjf
nitre into water to keep flowers flourishing: in -puiaisi
and rooted plants in pots, appear-to (rxruve beriefjeial.
That coarser way of impregnating water with dutigs
may -be useful to pots of plants that are too lull 01"
roots, or to any thing growing in a poor soil ;. buj
the water should not be made too rank, or suffered
to touch the leaves ; it should stand also in the aim
two or three days, and be stirred, up- now and then.
Sheep' s-dung for the purpose, is to be preferred*
though others may do. Let the rule be, tp iinpregi
nate the water about an equivalent of aa ounce of
sea-salt to a gallon : A stronger mixture might do
mischief; yet a rich one poured plentifully on old
asparagus beds in autumn and spring would do much
good in renovating them.

The MANAGEMENT of a garden, as somewhat
distinct from the cultivation of it, is an object of
consequence ; i. e. to keep it in such OHDEH, thai it
may not fail in those general impressions of pleasure,
it is capable of affording, when things are she\vn in.

56 OF THE CULTIVATION SECT. IV*

their best manner, A garden may be cultivated so
as to be profitable ; and yet not conducted* so as to
be agreeable to walk in, which in a private garden is
a circumstance surely to toe lamented : The proper
appearance of a well managed one is expressed by
the word NEAT : Let all be done that can be to acr
complish this object.

To be Meat, weeding must be industriously fol-
lowed up, and all litter that is made in working,
quickly carried off. The ground also should be fre-
quently 'stirred and raked between crops, and about
the borders, to give all a fresh appearance. There
is a pleasantness to the eye in new broken earth :
and when there are no -flowers left in the borders,
this gives an air of culture, and is always agreeable :
The observation is particularly meant to apply in
autumn, that the garden may not become dreary too
soon, and so bring on winter before its time. An
Asparagus fork is expeditious and useful in this
tase ; but it must be slightly used, lest it disturb the
roots of plants too much. Vegetables should not
be suffered to rock themselves by wind, so -as to form
holes round their stems, but be well earthed up (49)
or otherwise supported.

Trees and shrubs should be constantly freed from
suckers and dangling shoots, and wall trees ought to
be regularly kept in order agreeable to directions in
section 12, On pruning.

Let gravel walks be kept free from weeds arid moss,
often swept, and well rolled after rain. If there i$
quantity of gravel enough in the walks to relay, or
turn them up every spring, or once in two years, it
will thoroughly clean them, and make them appear
lively. Moss may be either scraped off with a trowel,
or some such instrument, or rubbed off by repeated
strokes of a broom not quite new.

Grass plats and walks should have their edges

iv. OF A GARDEN. 57

occasionally cut, and be moved, as often as there is
the least hold for the scythe, for they lose much of
their beauty, when the grass gets long ; leaves should
not be suffered to remain on them as it stains the
grass ; and worm casts should be cleared away.

Edgings of all sorts should be kept in good order,
as having a singular neat effect in the appearance of
a garden. The dead edgings will sometimes, and
the live edgings often want putting to rights ; either
cutting, clipping, or making up complete. Where
there are no edgings, or but weak ones, let th,e earth
bordering on the walks be kept^/zrw, and now and
then worked up by a line in moist weather, beating it
smooth with a spade.

Some fruits may need support, by tying their
weak branches when they get heavy, to stakes, &c.
Rows of raspberries and beans are kept neatly up
in their lines, by putting in here and there a stake,
and using packthread lengthwise ; and thus will they
bear better, and be more conveniently gathered.
Strawberries of fine heavy sorts, will be preserved
from getting dirty and rotten, by tying their stems to
little sticks from an old broom ; thus the fruit also
gets better ripened, and of a finer flavour: Some
persons lay tiles, or moss round the plants, when
the fruit is half grown; but this is not (generally)
50 well, only it has the advantage in keeping the
ground cooler in a hot season. The first and finest
scarlets best deserve this trouble.

Flowers should be frequently looked over, to tie
up, and trim off dead and dangling parts. Some
of them cannot do without support, and many sorts
are made more secure and beautiful in their form
by proper ties. If this business is neglected, a heavy
rain or strong wind may come, and damage, if not
[ay all prostrate, especially about the equinoctial

58 OF THE CULTIVATION SECT. IV,

seasons; but weakness or their own weight, will
often bring them down.

The sticks used for flowers, should be of smooth
wood, as hazk or sallow, or of neat painted slips of
deal, with or without an ornamental head ; white is
the best colour, on account of its contrast with the
leaves. New bass wetted, fine soft packthread, or
green yarn are proper for the ties, which should be
twisted first round the stick, and then round the
flower: let the ends of the string be cut off close.
The sticks should have smooth and sharp points,
otherwise they may damage the roots, and will not
hold so fast in the ground ; thrust them in as far
from the stem as conveniently may be, and let atten-
tion be paid to bulbous roots not to go so near as to
wound them. Do not think of forcing all the
branches of a large bushy head to a single stick;
but let two or more be used, as may appear neces-
sary, observing that there is something of an equa-
lity of size in the sticks used to the same flower.

Some persons are very incurious about their flower
sticks, which may rather be called stakes, even when
applied to the smaller sort of plants : Sticks may
also be too weak for large ones, and a due proportion
}s therefore necessary to propriety and neatness.

Decaying flowers should be timely trimmed or re-
moved, and perennials should be regularly freed froni
the parts running to seed, (except for so much as
may be wanted) because the production of seeds
weakens the roots much ; sometimes causing death,
especially the first year of planting them. To pre-
serve any particular sort therefore, let the stems be
cut down as soon as the flowers appear to be going
off, or to secure the root in strength, let them not
flower at all the first year.

Yegetabks. decaying are offensive, and those pre-

SECT. IV. OF A GARDEN, ^>f

maturely spindling, and superfluous ones, sprouts,
&c. running for seed, should not be suffered to con-
tinue in the ground (as they too often are) to exhaust
its strength, and look unsightly.

The management of a garden (summarily speak-
ing) consists in attention and application ; the first
should be of that wary and provident kind, as not
only to do well in the present, but for the future ;
and the application should be of so diligent nature
as (willingly) " Never to defer that till to-morrow

which may be done to day" 'Procrastination is

of serious consequence in gardening ; and neglect
of times and seasons is fruitful of disappointment
and complaint. It will often happen, indeed, that a
gardener cannot do what he would ; but if he does
hot do what he can, he will be most justly blamed,
and perhaps censured by none more than HIMSELF

SECTION V,

OF PROPAGATION,

I LANTS are propagated by seeds, suckers, dips>
offsets, divisions, cuttings, layers, and grqffs.

By seed is the most general method of propaga-
tion, and plants raised any other way are seldom so
fine. Those plants from seed which have never been
removed, are commonly handsomer, and come for-
warder, than those that have been transplanted, pro-
vided they were sown in a proper soil and situation.

As upon seed being right in kind and good in na-
ture, depends the success, care should be t#ken tq

60 OF TR07AGATIOX. SECT. V.

procure the best, and no temptation suffered to pre-
vail for the use of an inferior kind, or of one only
suspected of being so, if it can be helped ; for to
cultivate a soil, and use a wrong or defective seed
knowingly, is folly indeed ! Large seeds may have
the doubtful picked out.

The largest seed of the kind, plump and sound,
is to be chosen, being well ripened and kept from
injuries of weather and insects : for, as the largest
animals produce the most profitable stock, so it is
in vegetables ; which directs the gardener always to
save seed only from the forwardest and handsomest
uninjured plants. As in animals the young may be
stunted by bad management, and defective food, so
in vegetables, the seed being good will not be alone
sufficient, if the soil and culture be not right.

Commonly speaking new seed is to be preferred to
old, as growing the more luxuriantly, and coming up
the surer and quicker. This circumstance induces
some private persons to save their own seed that
they may not be deceived in buying old for new seed ;
a trick of trade, it is to be hoped, not practised by
every seedsman : Yet a little mixture of old seed is
sometimes proper, because if the new be cut off, the
old may be saved, by being a day or two later in
coming up.

If old seed is knowingly sown, some allowance in
point of time must be made. Peas and beans of
two years old, are by some preferred to new, as not
running so much to straw. See cucumbers and me-
lons, section 14.

As to the age of seeds, at which they may be
sown and germinate, it is uncertain, and depends
very much how they are preserved. Seeds kept
from the air and moisture by being buried deep in
the ground will continue a great many years without
corruption. Peas and beans will germinate very

SECT. V. OP PROPAGATION. 61

well at seven years of age ; but the seeds of r ad-
dishes, lettuces and kidney beans, and some others,
are not to be depended upon after a year or two ;
and though generally speaking the smaller seeds are
of the least duration, yet their maintenance of ve-
getative power depends much upon the texture of
the seed, with respect to its coat, and the oil it con-
tains, &c.

The saving seed by private gardeners, is hardly to
be recommended. Things running to seed give a
garden a rude appearance, often occupying ground
that is wanted, and mrght be used to better purpose ;
and the case often is, that seeding plants (in private
gardens) are neglected in gome measure, or destroyed
by birds, and come to little at last. Perhaps they
are not saved from proper plants, It is a particular
business to raise seeds for sale, and (generally) they
are best had from those whose province it is to deal
in them.

Against our o^n seed, there is this to be observed,
that it is a received maxim to procure seeds of escu-
lents from a different soil and situation, or at least to
change them, as being apt to alter or degenerate, if
repeatedly sown in the same place. It is proper,
however, for private persons to save seed some-
times, in order to secure that of any particular
sort, that it is judged may not be got so true and
good. Yet here perhaps the busy bee or wind
may interfere, and disappoint expectation ; for if
there is any thing of the like kind in a neigh-
bouring garden, these instruments may carry the
Farina of that to our charge, and contaminate it, so
as to produce a spurious offspring, which is very fre-
quently experienced in the cabbage tribe. Now this
cannot in a great degree happen with those who
raise seed in extensive pieces of ground occupied
with the mine sort of vegetable.

•% OF PROPAGATION".' SECT. V*

Seed of vegetables should be saved from fine for-
ward plants, secured from rocking about; when they
get tall ; guard them against birds, gather them re-
gularly as they ripen, lest they shed and are lost, and
keep them dry. Flowers, it may be proper to save
the seed of, and it is little trouble. The sorts may
thus be better depended on, and the small quantity
wanted of each kind makes it hardly 'worth while
to buy, if we can raise them ourselves, or get them
of a friend ; no single flowers should be suffered to.
grow in a garden where there are double ones to
bear seed, as larkspurs, and holy hocks, for the Fa-
rina of the singles transported by bee or wind will
spoil the seed of the doubles. Such single flowers
should be taken up as soon as ever discovered to be
so. It should be a rule iw flower seeds in general
to be fresh from year to year ; though if kept dry,
and from much air, many sorts will grow that are
older : curious flower seeds are kept well in vials :
others may be in small drawers, and some hung up,
or kept on shelves in their pods.

Seeds may be forwarded for sowing by various
ways of procuring a germination before they are put
into the ground. In summer it has not been unusual
to steep both broad and kidney -beans in soft water,
or milk and water, about twenty-four hours, to for-
ward their growth, and to ascertain their vitality.
If the ground is very dry when these seeds are com-
mitted to it, either steeped, or not, it is a good way
to make drills or trenches to plant them in, watering
them well first, and then pressing the seed in a little.
Any sort of the broad beam, or even peas, may be
forwarded, when ground is not for the present ready,
by laying them in damp mould, in a garden pot, or
otherwise, a layer of earth, and a layer of seeds. &c.
and they may be put into drills or trenches (with
care; when the radicle has put out a little, the mould

SECT. T. OF PROPAGATION* 63

being light, and the work finished by a gentle

watering.

The smaller seeds, as carrots, &c. may be
pared for sowing, by simply mixing them in a little
moist sand, or fine earth, taking care that they do
not lie longer than the usual time of their beginning
to sprout : but this practice need only be adopted
for seeds that are long in coming up, and then there
is some advantage in having them to sow in a state
ready to strike immediately, on fresh dug earth.

The season for committing seeds to the ground,
should be as early as the nature of the plant to be
cultivated will bear; for the forward productions
(which come without forcing) are the best as to size,
flavour, and fruitfulness, if they meet with no mate-
rial check from weather. It is the proper ambition
of gardeners also, to have some of thejirst of each
kind of vegetables and fruits, and thus to vie with
others.

Let this direction for early sowing be understood.
not only of spring, but autumn crops ; that the
plants designed for winter use, or to stand for spring,
may be strong, and well established in the ground :
Though for those designed for spring, it is advisable
to have two or three diiferent sowings ; for lettuces
(as an instance) that are forward, will sometimes fail
when backward plants shall do well.

To be sure of a crop, and in some things a suc-
cession of crops, various sowings should be made
through the year, at all times that are not too un-
natural ; for it is an object in gardening, not only to
have early and late productions, but never to be with-
out what may be produced. Every sowing that is
made (the early ones in particular) should be noticed
in time, whether it is likely to succeed, that the' work
may be repeated. But a little caution is necessary,
that this business be not over done ; for though there

64 OF PROPAGATION. SECT. V.

may seem to be a sufficient distance of time in sow-
ing for succession crops ; yet they tread sometimes
upon the heels of one another so fast as to occasion
a disagreeable superfluity: This is often the case ia
peas and beans, in the height of summer, and espe-
cially if a hot season : this caution is the more ne-
cessary, where there is no ground to spare, or but
few hands to cultivate it. Labour with discretion,
and do not attempt too much.

Sowings should be generally performed on fresh
dug or stirred ground. The digging should there-
fore be done near the time designed to sow. There
is a nutritious moisture in fresh turned up soil, that
softens the seed to swell and germinate quickly, and
bQiirishes it with proper aliment to proceed in its growth
*vit)i vigour, but which is evaporated soon after from
thd surface. If the ground, indeed, turns up raw,
or wet (as early in the spring it is apt to do) a little
time must be allowed it to dry, and so also if rain
tails first. In this case, seed should be sown as soon
as ever the ground may be trampled so as not to
hang to the feet, for when the soil is too wet, it binds
and does harm, especially heavy ground ; thus in this
work, and every other in the way of gardening,
there is a nicety of time to be observed, by those
who would do their business well. It is to be ob-
served, however, that sowing in drills or in beds that
are not to be trampled, the moisture of the ground
is rather an advantage, provided, in the last case,
that the ground will admit a rake, and the soil is not
too wet to drop somewhat loosely about the seeds.

The proper depth at which seed should be sown,
is to be carefully observed : if too deep, they will
either rot, or not vegetate, or thrive well ; and if too
shallow, they are liable to be injuriously affected by
frost, harsh wind, drought, or birds ; but of the two>

SECT. V. OP PROPAGATION". 65

rather too shallow, than too deep, is best, and this
we are taught by nature whose sowings are mostly
superficial.

The smaller the seed, the finer should the soil be,
and the less also the covering ; so that, while some,
(as the seed of celery is to be but barely covered,
others as peas and beam) may have a depth of two,
three, or four inches. But some regard is to be had
to the season and soil ; — in a warm season, and light
soil, sow deeper, and the contrary shallower.

The quantity of seed sown, is a thing to be at-
tended to with some exactness. Small seeds go a
great way, and require a careful hand to distribute
them; for though sowing a little too much be a tri-
fle as to the value of seeds, jet to have them come
up crowding thick is an evil. To sow evenly as to
quantity, is an object of practice worthy of care, as
it secures a better crop, and is more easily managed in
the thinning. If the seed is suspected, sow thicker ;
poor land will require more seed than rich.

It is not generally advisable to sow several sorts
of seed on the same spot, as some persons are ac-
customed to do. The gardeners about London fol-
low the practice; as profit is their great object, and
not neatness or propriety. On -the same piece, they
sow radishes, lettuces, and carrots ; the radishes are
drawn young for the table, the lettuces to plant out,
and a sufficient crop of carrots is left, for carrots
should not stand very near to grow big: This is as
reasonable a combination as any that is made ; but
still, if not short of ground, each kind separate will
be found best. In defence of this mode of culture,
it is said, if one crop fails, the others may do, and
there is no loss of ground or time ; and if all suc-
ceed they do very well. Radishes and spinach are
commonly sown together by the common gardeners,
and many manoeuvres of inter-cropping are made by

66 OF PROPAGATrON. SECT. VV

them, as sowing, or planting, between rows of vege-
tables that are wide asunder, or presently to come-
off, or in the alleys of things cultivated on beds.
But this crowding mode of gardening should not be
imitated by private families, except there is a want
of room to bring in a proper succession of crops.
Some little things of this sort, however, may well be
done; as, a piece of ground new planted with
horse-radish may be top-cropped with radishes or
spinach, &c. A thin crop of onions upon new as-
paragus beds, may also take place, drawing theat
While young from about the plants.

The proper covering for seeds at broacF east being,
determined on, as to depth, let the ground lay the
rougher, the deeper the seed is to be buried;: and if
it is to be scarcely covered, rake the ground first
very level and fine, and press them in with the back
of the spade. All seeds come up best when mode-
rately pressed with the earth; for if they lie too*
lightly in contact with it, cold and drought more
easily affect them, arid when once seeds begin to ger-
minate, they are impatient of both. To trample
seeds in is on the whole better than any other pres-
sure. According to the depth it is intended to- cover
seeds, the feet should be set wider or nearer, i. e. the-
closer for the less covering. Begin to trample o»
the outside, walking regularly, lightly, and steadily
round the piece, till the middle be arrived at in the
finish. This done, lay all immediately and neatly
level with a wide rake, drawing off stones, &c. but
do it lightly, not to remove the seed, and mate it
eome up irregularly.

Patches, or small pieces of ground, are sometimes-
sown without trampling, particularly for flowers, by
drawing some of the mould on one side, and then-
sowing and covering the proper depth with what earth-
was drawn off, adding a little more, if necessary.

SECT. V* bp PROfAGATiotfi 67

In this case, if the soil is not heavy and wet, press the
surface with the rake head, spade, or otherwise.
Seeds sown in drills, or rows, are seldom pressed,
but they should be, especially if the soil be light ;
and even beans set by a dibble, are best to have the
earth pressed well about them \\ith it, or afterwards
with the rake head, and they Avill support themselves
more erectly ; for the least wind rocks them about
when in loose holes, and thus hurts the crop : In a
light soil, the best way is to lay them in a trench,
and trample in.

Directions for thinning seedling crops, and prick-
ing them out in time, were given in the last section.
Let this business be done properly, and prick out
enow, that there may be some to spare ; perhaps a
neighbour may be obliged thereby, and at any rate*
it is best to have plenty lest accidents happen.

Propagation by suckers is a mode of culture ra-
ther peculiar to trees and shrubs. The things to be
observed in this business are, to take them up with
some care from the mother plant, so as not to injure
its root, nor the sucker's own root, by pulling it up
without properly loosening it first. The earth should
be moved aside by a trowel, and then the sucker cut
by a knife, and not with a spade. Of those hardy
things that there are plenty of, the rough way
by a spade does not signify much, as to the sucker,
but it may injure the root, that it comes from.
Wherever a root appears barked, the part below
should be cut off. If it is desired to succeed well, in
propagating by suckers, consider that all young roots
are tender, let them be trimmed to form, (not too
much) and planted immediately, or at least let them
be covered with earth or laid by the heels, as it ia
Called. Suckers with poor roots, must have their
heads reduced the more.

Propagation by slips is of two sorts? either from
F a

68 OF PROPAGATION. SECT, Y,

the root, or stem ; and several sorts of flowers and
*herbs are increased this way. When from the roots
(if the wh'ole is not taken up) move the earth care-
fully aside, and slip off by a pressure of the thumb
and finger, and be cautious of hurting the fibres of
the slips, planting with fine and good mould about
' them. Take off slips from the stem carefully by a
push of the thumb, and not too many from the same
plant, as it is apt to injure the place by tearing off
some of the wood. Slips from the stem are to be
considered as cuttings, and treated accordingly,
They take more certainly, and make better roots than
cuttings.

Offset is a term sometime applied to slips from
fibrous roots ; but more properly so from bulbous
roots, which put forth many offsets. These are
slipped away at the time they are taken up for re-
moval or replanting, and commonly take two or
three years before they bear flowers;, dispose of
them therefore in a nursery, where they remain un-
disturbed while they come to a flowering state ; keep
them however clean from weeds, and stir the ground
fe little*

Division of the roots is a way of propagating
many sorts of plants. To this end (of course) they
must be taken up, and then either carefully putted?
or cut asunder with a sharp instrument ; as the case
may require. It is not safe, however, to divide such
roots into very small pieces, (especially if cut), as
then they are apt to die ; but leave them of a size
sufficient, not barely to secure life, but to form im-
mediately a handsome head. The general and best
season for thus splitting fibrous rooted plants, is Oc-
tober, but it may be done early in the spring, as
February.

Cuttings of a variety of woody plants will grow?;
and many trees an,d shrubs are propagated this way ;

SECT. V. OF PROPAGATION.

but their sap must be of a watery nature, as those
plants that are gummy will hardly be brought to
strike, though ever so much care is bestowed, or time
allowed them. The texture of the wood of cutt-
ings must be somewhat soft, as hard wooded ones
will not grow; let them be rather short than long,
and kept steady in the ground. If they are planted
where there is any likelihood of their being dis-
turbed, they may be tied to a stick, well fastened in
the earth.

The season for setting slips and cuttings is for
some things summer, as wall-flowers and foyrtks ;
and for most, from October to March, but (in ge-
neral) the sooner the better. It has. however been
said, that spring is the best time for all, and that the
sap should be in motion first. This is at least true
of some things, as cuttings of the vitex, or chaste
tree, (though hardy) are found to do best in spring ;
and all cuttings from plants of a delicate nature
do so.

Cuttings should be of well ripened wood, and
have the earth moderately pressed to them, the whole
length that they are in the ground ; i. e. from four
to six inches. Cut them with a sharp knife slope-
wise, and plant in a good soil, and in a situation
where they only have the morning sun ; and keep
them cool (not wet) by occasional watering or
shade, in sunny weather.

Laying of branches is a mode of propagation,
that may be adopted for almost all forest trees, and
several sorts of fruit trees and shrubs ; i. e. all that
will grow from cuttings, and many that will not.
Layers are less rampant, and more fruitful than
suckers ; and " those who are curious, and find a
seminal variety of any tree, or shrub, that is re-
markably different from the original, the only way to
have it preserved genuine is to convert it into a s

70 OF PROPAGATION. SB£T. V.

(by cutting down) and raising plants by layers"
They are made of the lower branches of the plant,
and must be young and pliable, to bend down with-
out breaking, to the depth of three, four, or more
inches, (according as the soil is light or heavy) at
which they should be held securely by good pegs ;
and if they cannot be brought down sufficiently deep,
some earth may be raised up to them.

Let the soil about layers be good and kept cool
by occasional waterings, and laying some moss, turf,
litter, or rather small pebbles about them, which will
not harbour insects. The part out of ground (if ra-
ther long) may be supported erectly by a tie to a
stick. It is a good way to slit neatly, with a sharp
knife, the part at the peg, as in carnation layers, a
little more than an inch ; and some gardeners prick a
few holes about the part (at a joint) with a blunt
awl, to help the layer to strike root ; and for the
harder woods, make several slits, or chips, in the
part layered in the earth, binding the layer rather
tight just above it with pliant wire ; and soft wooded
layers are sometimes twisted to crack the bark, in
order to help the part to strike quickly. Generally
layers should be shortened to six or eight inches
above the ground ; or do it to two eyes, he it more
or less above ground.

Where there are no branches low enough to be
brought into the ground, (and it is not thought good
to head down for the production of low shoots, or
suckers) plants may be layered by fixing a broken
pot, or a box with a slit in the side, to the height ne-
cessary to lay in a branch. A branch also, if long
enough, may be thrust through the hole of a garden
pot upwards, then tilled with earth, and supported
by some contrivance, and shading by some means,
and in both cases water frequently. Take care not
JQ injure the bu4s in drawing through the hole, of

SECT. VI. OF PROPAGATION. 71

the pot. By this contrivance rooted plants being
procured in pots, may be turned out with the earth
About their roots undisturbed, and thus be planted to
great advantage. A branch of a vine thus layered
in November, may be next year cut off, when the
fruit is ripe, brought in the pot to table, and after-
wards planted out for a tree.

The season for layers is (generally) the same as
for cuttings, and some sorts will be rooted in a year,
but others will require two, and sometimes three
years before they will be fit to be moved. Those,
however, that are slow to strike should be layered as
goon as ever young shoots are forward enough, which
may be in July and August. This practice is parti-
cularly recommended for the phyllerea and alater-
nus. Cut off the leaves of that part that goes into
the ground, because such young wood will not well
bear stripping. For propagation by grafting, see
Ihe two next sections.

SECTION VI.

OF A NURSERY.

are so many respectable nursery-men
ready to supply our wants, that the necessity of a
nursery for raising trees is in a great measure done
away ; it affords, however, employment, amusement,
and an opportunity for exercising ingenuity, and that
particularly in the way of grafting.

By means of a nursery, trees are (however) ready
upon the spot, to be transplanted without damage
to the roots from being long out of the ground, and

72 OF A NURSERY. SECT. VI.

being raised in a like climate and soil they are to
grow, and to fruit, there is a more probable certainty
of success, than would otherwise be had. There is
also a great advantage in raising trees, in a very
material point, in an assurance of having fruit that
we know we like, by getting graffs, or buds, from
trees of which we have tasted and admired the fruit.

In a nursery, stocks may be raised for fruit trees,
shrubs propagated by suckers, slips and cuttings, and
flowers of the biennial and perennial sorts may be
sown, bulbous offsets planted, and thus a stock be
readily provided for furnishing any part of the plea-
sure ground. For these objects, a spot might well
be allotted, if it were only the cool corner of a large
garden, having a good soil, and not over hung by
trees.

Supposing only a little spot is made use of for
a fewjftowers, shrubs, &c. let them be duly attended,
to weed, thin, water, trim into form, support, shelter,
and in short nurse, but yet not to bring any thing up
tenderly, as too much, or long cover in winter, ex-
poses to risk when it is taken away ; the plants not
being able to bear then even a moderately cold air.
A low part of the garden, that has not too much sun
is best calculated for a nursery ; if not overshaded
with trees.

Suckers, slips and cuttings of any kind, should be
- attended to for forming a proper head ; shortening
the shoots, and keeping a clear stem below, and the
roots free from suckers. Two years commonly fit
suckers for planting out, and three years slips and
cuttings. But remember to fasten the two latter^
if not the former, to sticks, that the wind, &c. may
not loosen them, and prevent their well rooting.

Large plants, as young trees, &c. should be .tied
to stakes firmly fixed, at first putting out for the
same reason. These should be seen to from time

SECT. VI. OF A NURSERY, 73

to time, that they remain fast ; as also, the mats or
cloths, that may have been put over hoops to shelter
exotic seedlings, &c. from heavy rains, or severe
frosts, for the wind has great power over such cover-
ings.

The soil of a nursery should be dry, free and in
heart ; but not much enriched with dung, lest a rank-
ness of food give too great a freedom oi growth, and
a habit in the plants, which not being indulged by a
like soil afterwards, disappointments ensue. A dungy
soil also encourages uorms and insects, to the injury
of seedlings, and makes young plants more liable to
be cut off in a sharp winter ; too rank a soil, also,
prevents the juices of plants from being properly
digested, and so they are less hardy, or fruitful.

On ground designed to be sown, or planted in
spring, if it needs refreshing, lay on a little well con-
sumed dung towards winter. See page 47. ,

A nurseiy should be laid out into beds of from
three to four feet wide, with alleys of about two ;
and thus all the work of it will be done conveniently,
and the plants have free air to strengthen them. In
the alleys may be buried some dung, which will be
at hand, and useful, when consumed by time and
turning over, to dress the beds as they may need it.

Stocks for graffing^mY, are raised from suckers of
plumbs, cherries, codlins, crabs, pears and quinces ;
and sometimes from cuttings of codlins and quinces;
but those stocks raised from seeds and stones are much
best if we consult freedom of growth. If sucker
stocks grow ever so well, they are apt to put forth
suckers, which is not only a troublesome circum-
stance, but exhausts a tree, and prevents fruitfulness.
It is to be understood, that the graff will (in some
measure) partake of the nature of the stock ; there-
fore soft, mealy fruit, ought to be propagated on
austere stocks^ and the contrary ; tender, delicious

74 OF A NURSERY. SECT. VT.

fruits designed for forcing, should always be on
smart flavoured flocks, or they become insipid, or
mealy.

Though crab stocks for apples are mostly used,
yet the ripe black seeds of any other smart eating
apple may be sown, either in autumn or spring.
Sow in autumn, (October or November), and if this
sowing fails, the spring may be adopted towards the
end of February. At these times, the well ripened
seeds of pears, or stones of plurns, or cherries, may
be sown. The stones of any sort of plum, (damsons
excepted) produce stocks for apricots, peaches, and
nectarines ; and though the white sorts are com*
ID only preferred, the red wheat-plumb is excellent
for the apricot ; and of black plums the muscle is
the best.

Those seeds or stones that are saved early, or are
to be kept through the winter for spring sowing,
(which many prefer), should be preserved from air
in very dry sand : Let them be put in a box layer
upon layer, three or four courses, covering the top
three inches, and by traps guard against mice. Nuts,
acorns, and chesnuts are put in the ground at the
same time, as also the seeds of various sorts of
shrubs snd forest trees. The tenderer sorts of shrubs
and trees are indeed best sown in March, or begin-
ning of April ; and a gentle hot-bed would be of
advantage, to bring up the seeds with certainty,
giving plenty of air when up.

The seeds, or kernels of apples and pears may be
sown in drills a lull inch deep, a foot asunder, and
scattered thinly in them, pressing the ground with a
rake head to them ; or sow at broad cast, and tram-
ple. But take care not to use the seeds of fruit
that has grown on a hollow tree.

The stones of any fruit should be sown at near
two inches depth ; and nuts, &c. at three or four.

SECT. VI. X>F A NUUS-EBY. 75

Stones and nuts must be set thin, and rather (as of
some advantage) the small end upwards, for here
the shoot pushes out, or they may be laid tiat. If
the beds are sown all over, cover the seed with mould
previously drawn aside in the alleys ; but drills have
the neatest appearance, and some little use may be
made of the spaces between them the first year.

Prepare the beds by digging the soils well to a full
foot in depth, and let the surface be made fine: thus
will the roots strike down freely to preserve them-
selves from drought, wet will drain away, and the
young plants push straight upward : four feet beds
are best.

The enemies of seed beds must be well guarded
against, as poultry, birds, dogs, cats, mice and/ratf ;
the latter by covering lightly with pea haulm or
wheat straw, and the former by furze, thorns, or
brush wood, and traps. If any hares, or rabbits,
get at a nursery, they make sad havock in sharp
weather, by barking the young plants ; therefore,
guard against them, and larger animals, by good
close fences, which will also keep out sharp winds.

During the Jirst year, they should be kept mo-
derately cold; by watering in dry seasons, or laying
moss, or some short litter, over the beds. And as
to weeding, though they must not be smothered, yet
some small weeds may be suffered to grow in sum-
mer, as they help to shade the plants, and keep the
ground cool. Seedling trees are very apt to suffer
by drought. Thin them in the summer, after rain,,
from two inches to three or four asunder, according
to their nature ; and at the end of the year (i. e.
when a year old) thin to from nine inches to a foot
asunder; those drawn may be planted out at the
game distance, or at least the best of them ; and
those left should be re-planted the second year, lest
the roots tap too much downwards. The tirst win-

76 OF A NURSERY. SECT. VI,

ter, they ought to be protected from severe frosts,
by some light dry litter, which remove in mild wea-
ther. At all times, except winter, if the roots of
young plants are disturbed by any means" (as pulling
up strong weeds, hoeing, &c.) settle the mould about
them by a good watering.

Stocks designed 'to grow forjull standards, should
be set in rows, three or four feet asunder, and at one
foot and a half in the rows ; or if set at the before-
mentioned distances, they may be transplanted again,
another year or two, wider. Rows for dwarfs need
not be so far asunder as those for standards : but
before they are planted, the side shoots must be
trimmed off, and the tap roots shortened, in order
to procure a clean strait stem, and a full root.

Protect ii'omjrost all new planted trees, by laying
pease, bean, or strong wheat straw between them ;
which may be secured by trampling or laying stones
over it, or by pegging down. Seedlings, or stocks,
planted out in spring, should be protected from
drought also in the same manner, a month or two,
(or longer,) and afterwards occasionally watered in
dry weather.

The second year, in October, those left at about a
foot distance in the rows, may either be taken up
jand re-planted, cutting the tap to make bushy roots,
or, taking out every other, left to grow of a size fit
to grajf\ or innocalate there. This year, only the
stronger side-shoots from the stem should be cut off;
for the weaker ones will help the stem to thicken,
by detaining the rising sap, and imbibing moisture
from the atmosphere to feed it ; and the getting a
strong stem is a material thing, especially for stand-
ard trees. Do not top the leading shoot.

Slocks of any kind will be three or four years
growing, or two or three from planting out, before
they are fit for graffing ; . and if strong stocks are
wanted, (as for standards,) more time will be neces-

SECT. VI. OF A NURSERT.

sary : The rule of substance may be from a quarter,
to an inch, or more diameter. As dwarf trees are
grafted, or inoculated within five or six inches of the
ground, much less stocks will do for them, than for
standw *d trees, which are grafted at so many feet high;
i. e. if for full -sized trees.

Stocks that are naturally of a slow growth, are
coveted for dwarf trees, that they may not mount
the wall, fill the espalier, or increase to a large head
too fast. So for apples, instead of crab stocks, which
are commonly of free growth, those raised from the
seeds of the paradise apple are recommended as
growing dwarf. Or stocks may be raised from cut-
tings of the Kentish Codlin.

In default of these naturally dwarf-growing stocks,
those raised from suckers are sometimes used, as less
likely to grow oft' freely than seedling stocks. Layers
also are proper for dwarf stocks, and they are com-
monly to be had from the codlin ; all layers must be
carefully taken up to' preserve the roots.

For pears, dwarf stocks arc raised from quince
cuttings, layers, or suckers ; but as quince shoots
are commonly of a weak and crooked growth, the
stocks from pear seeds are mostly used. But suckers
may be obtained from pears, quinces, &c. by cutting
down an old tree within a foot of the ground, and
these being planted out for a year or two, become
good stocks. If the suckers, or shoots, lay highf
they may be earthed up to induce them to strike.
But suckers will be often forced, by only cutting oft*
the top of an old tree, which is an experiment to be
recommended, (in pears particularly) as there will
be formed a new head, and an opportunity given to
grajf for another, or1 a better ,sort. And if there
are no suckers, there may be low- placed shoots
proper for layers, of those trees that will thus strike.,

73 &P A

and most tfees will, if not the first, perhaps the sfr
cond year

vStocks from stickers, for dwarf plums and cherries,
are in one sense better than those raised from stones,,
as being less free in their growth : and the common
red cherry and the black are to be preferred fo*
stocks, whether as to suckers or seedlings. If suckers
of any tree grow at a proper distance from the parent
Stock, they may be grafted or inoculated without re-
moval, till wanted to plant out for fruiting, i. e. in a
year or two. Suckers that are for stocks, should
always be planted out in autumn, and stand (at
least) to the following spring or summer, twelve-
months before they are used. Apricots, peaches and
nectarines are grafted by inoculation on plum stocks,
but rather on those raised from stones, except for
apricots it hardly signifies. Stocks of the wheat
plum, or the muscle are the best. Figs, quinces,
and mulberries (as sometimes codlins) are raised
from suckers, layers, and cuttings, without graffing *
but from layers is the best method, being more sure
than cuttings, and more fruitful than suckers, and in
one year they will be rooted. The season for both
cuttings and layers is October, though February id
rather better for the -fig. The layers from Jig trees
must not be taken off till the beginning of March
twelvemonth, as when planted in autumn they are
apt to die; let all other layers, however, be then
removed.

Medlars are graffed on pear or crab, or service-
tree stocks ; but more commonly upon medlar and
white thorn stocks ; though the fruit (on the last at
kast) is not reckoned so good.

Grape vines are generally raised from cuttings
and layers, either in autumn or spring; but for put-
tings rather the latter ; and if the vines are pruned

OF A NURSERf. 79

in February, or before, lay the cuttings by in dry
mould or sand, till March or April. Place the
layers in the ground, about four or five inches deep,
leaving two or three eyes out. The cuttings should
have three eyes in the ground, and only one or two
out, or be about a foot or fifteen inches long, and
placed aslant ; chuse the most short jointed, and let
them have a knot of the old wood at bottom, for
those cut off above, though they may strike, will
not produce so good, or fruitful plants ; they are also
best taken from the lower part of the tree, the wood
there being the most ripened. Vines are best raised
where they are to grow, by opening a hole, and plac-
ing two cuttings in, one of which is likely to answer*
Keep it to one shoot, and cut down to two eyes ii>
autumn ; then to two shoots the next summer, and
prune these down to two or three eyes in autumn,
and then the vine will proceed with vigour, and bear
well. Chesnuts are raised by sowing those that are
imported, three inches deep, and four asunder, i»
rows six inches apart ; where growing two- years, let
them be planted out half a yard apart, in rows a
yard asunder. When five or six feet high, they may
be moved where they are to remain : If the seed is
good, it will sink in water.

Walnuts are raised from well-ripened nuts, sown*
either in autumn or spring ; and if the latter (which
may be rather best) preserve the nuts in their outer
coats, in dry sand. These trees are best but onc<?
moved, and their tap root preserved, if for timber,
with the head as entire as possible ; but if for fruity
the tap root should be shortened, to prevent the
tree mounting, and the head may be cut, to accom-
modate it to the root, as to size. The walnut likes
a dry soil^and if gravelly, it does best; and though
walnut trees are many years before they come to
hear, yet if it were only for the wood, posterity

80 OF A NURSERY.

would have reason to commend the planter of
them.

Filberds, are raised from nuts, or suckers, and
layers, the latter of which is the best 'method; or
they may be graffed on the common nut tree. The
nuts sown in autumn, or kept dry in sand till Fe-
bruary, produce fine trees, but generally differ a
little from the sorts sown, and make a variety gener-
ally for the worse : Nuts fruit best in a cool soil.

Currants and gooseberries are raised principally
from suckers, slips and cuttings, but best from the
latter. When from seed, it is with a view of ob-
taining varieties, and hence the many sorts of goose-
berries in some catalogues. Use cuttings, or slips,
of the last year's wood; from fruitful trees, about
nine or ten inches long, and set them four or five in
the ground, half a yard asunder ; train them to one
shoot, (or at the most two,) the first year, and the
next head them down to six or seven eyes, when a
fine head will be formed the following year, and in the
autumn they may be moved where they are to fruit.

Barberries are raised from suckers, layers, cut*
tings, or seed sown in autumn or spring. The latter
mode of propagation produces the finest shrubs,
with the largest fruit, though it is seldom practised,
suckers being generally numerous.

Raspberries are almost universally propagated
from suckers, being always abundant; and as this
saves a year, and seed produces varieties not desir-
able, sowing is not to be recommended : This shrub
is rarely brought into the nursery to obtain strength.

Strawberries are raised from seed, offsets, and
runners, but almost universally from the last; yat
plants from seed produce the finest fruit, and some-
times a variety that is superior to the. original. It
should be sown in pots, or boxes in March, or April.
This method is particularly to be recommended for

SECT. VI. OF A NURSERT, 81

the alpine, chusing the largest and most conical fruit
for seed.

The young offsets from strawberries slipped in
autumn, or those of the last year (which will be bet-
ter ro ted) slipped in spring, will do for plants, cut-
ting off the sticky parts ; but the first runners are
more commonly and properly used ; and to have
these fine, the runners which sheot beyond should
be pinched off in time. Offsets, early in spring,
and forward runners as soon as rooted in June, may
be planted out in cool ground, at six inches distance,
by way of a nursery, in order for making new plan-
tations towards the end of September, or in October:
This is a good way though seldom practised; let
them be well watered till rooted, and suffer no run-
ners to proceed from them. The common method is
to let the runners on the mother plant remain till
September, and then, to dregs the beds, and select
the first, the strong and most bushy-rooted sets for
forming new beds. Thus their own beds will be the
nursery for them ; and except the soil is worn out
(perhaps,) the best.

The raising of FOREST TREES is rather beside the
purpose of this book. They have been mentioned
as to the time of sowing, and their treatment is in a
great measure the same as for raising slocks for fruit
trees ; so that to those who wauld do only a little in
this way, much more need not be said.

Forest trees are too often left to grow thick on
the seed bed, and only thinned a little in the autumn
following, and so from time to time as they get
bigger ; but a little thinning should early take place
in the summer, by drawing, when the ground is
moist. If the soil that seedling trees are tp b$
planted in be poor, let them be raised in eartU

G

82 OF A NURSERY. SECT. VI.

somewhat sandy, and at any rate not in a
dunged soil.

When young men take to gardening and planting,
it: isr an happy circumstance, and they should lose
no time in the business ; for it is a thing that persons
advanced in years have often repented of. It pro-
duct's considerable satisfaction, and a peculiar plea-
sure in the evening of life, when a man can point at
good trees, and say, " These are of my own plant-
i-Ng !" — but it were a superior thing to add, " And
of my own raising too." Young planters would
wisely resolve, therefore, to raise their own trees,
especially of the fores f kind. " There is (however)
no better, or cheaper way of raising woods and
plantations, than by sowing the masts or nuts of
timber trees, where they are always to remain, and
this is best done in spring."

It is to be observed, that the wild sen-ice, haw-
thorn, holly, and ash keys come up the second year ;
but most other seeds of trees the first : Yet ash keys,
(and probably the others,) if they are buried in a
pit with coal ashes sifted line, or in a sandy earth
for a year, will then come up the first year they are
sown.

To have good s&d of the various kinds, is a thing
too little attended to; but on which evidently de-
pends much. It should be well-ripened, and the
produce of fine healthy trees from the top, or outside
branches ; withal, not growing near dottrel, ill-con-
ditioned ones, the farina from the flowers of which
might impregnate those of the good tree, and give
its seed a degree of degeneracy. Let oak acorns be
thrown into water, and those only used which sink
quickly ; — they should be kept a while to harden,
but riot too long out of ground, as they soon sprout.

In the management of a nursery, the young plants
•f trees and shrubs should be dug round once a

SECT. VII* OF GRAFFIX&* 83

by a downright cut of a sharp spade, a little distance
from the stems, nearer or farther off according to
their age, to shorten straggling roots, and produce
new ones more at home : Let this be done in October
or February ; the former time is best for the older
plants, and the latter for young ones. The spade
also may be drove under them to cut off the tap
roots, where it is not an object to preserve them*
By this practice, a good, full, brushy root will be
obtained', fitting plants for a prosperous removal ;
but it should be done a year before transplanting :
It improves also the soil. Evergreens in particular
would be safer to move, being thus treated ; and if
only to be moved from one part of the grounds to
another, balls of earth in this case will hold well to
them. Immediately after the operation, a sound
watering will be proper to settle the earth to the
roots, except the earth be quite moist ; but the dig-
ging a nursery is best done when the ground is dry.

SECTION VII.

OF CHAFFING.

(jrRAFFING, (or grafting), is the insertion of a
don into a stock, or stem, raised for the purpose,
and is necessary to the ensuring of good fruit; i. e.
to have the same (or at least with little difference)
produced on the new tree, as that of the old one from
whence the graff was taken: It is sometimes per-
formed on the branches of trees, and may be on

o 2

84 OF CHAFFING. SECT. VII*

roots, a piece being raised out of ground for the
purpose.

If the seeds of fruit were left to grow up to trees
without grafting, they would produce a different kind
from that they came from ; by chance a better, but
most commonly a worse. The varieties of fruit we
have, were obtained partly from seedling stocks,
without grafting, and partly by an accidental differ-
ence, that the stock, or soil, may be given.

Grqffing is like planting upon a plant, for though
there is a union of the parts, there is in fact little
other communication than a root has with the ground.
The cion, or bud, draws nourishment from the stock,
but no other than is properly adapted to its own pe-
culiar pores, which by a chemical process (suppose
by fermentation in its little cells) it alters, so as to
become exclusively its own. A great variety of fruit
is produced by graff planting irom the sane kind of
stock, (and that perhaps a mere crab,) just as a great
variety of plants are from the same soil : By this
means also, some forest, and many ornamental trees
and shrubs are propagated, and thus their particular
varieties preserved, as in all the variegated sorts, &c.

The art of graffing is a very curious discovery,
and though it requires some ingenuity to perform it,
a few trials may make it familiar, and it will prove
an agreeable source of amusement and satisfaction.

O

By being able to graff, young trees may be always
at hand for leplacing old, or unsuccessful ones; and
the pleasure of obliging a friend from off our own
stock in this way, is peculiarly gratifying.

Skill in this ingenious art is clearly best obtained
by seeing the work performed ; and at first trial to
have an adept at the elbow, would be of great ad-
vantage. There are few gardeners, (even by profes-
sion,) however, that practice this work, owing to the
number of nurserymen ready to supply trees.

SECT. VII.' OF GRAFFING. 8,5

But though they raise fine trees, much disappoint-
ment has often happened in dealing with them (par-
ticularly in the sort) which might be avoided, by a
man's being able to raise good trees for himself.
Directions precisely descriptive of the business of
grafting, are therefore here attempted, and if once
understood, trials should be made without minding
the discouragement of a few failures : practice makes
perfect.

Proper stocks being ready, and tions, or buds
procured, there will be wanting a good sharp nar-
row bladed pen-knife, arid a sharp smooth-edged
pruning-knife, with some well wrought loam, or clay,
and some good new bass, or strong yarn. .The clay
should be made up as mortar, mixed with short cut
hair, or fine chopt hay, with a little horse dung, and
prepared a day or two before-hand ; or longer the
better, being beat up afresh with a little water every
day.

The first thing to be done is, to cut. off the head
of the stock at the proper height, and in a fair part
of the bark, making a smooth flat top : If the stock
is too strong for the knife, and a saw is used, it must
be smoothed with the knife after. The proper size
for stocks, is from half an inch to an inch diameter,
yet a little more or less, may do. When a stock is *
too little, the cion is apt to overgrow it, and when
too big. the cion docs not so well, or so soon, cover
the stock, as might be wished : yet stocks of any
size can be used by one mode of grafting or other.

Dwarf frees are to be grafted within six inches of
the ground, and standard* as high as the stock will
well; bear, considering whether they are .to be half or
full standards ; the former at about three or four
feet, the latter at five or six. But trees designed for
standards, may be grafted, or inoculated at a lowec

85 or GKAFFING; SECT, vir,

height, the graff being trained to the desired length,
by keeping it to a single stem.

The dons for grafting should be healthy and strong,
(not however or a soft, sappy, luxuriant growth,)
and should be taken from the out side's of fruitful
trees, where the juices of the wood have been pro-
perly digested by sun and air : Let them be taken
(if it may be) from trees just in their prime, or at
Ji/// bearing, and not before, and cut them two or
three weeks sooner than wanted ; though if kept
longer they may not hurt, for they had better be cut
a little too soon, than too late, at full length, and
without any side shoots.

The dons of pears, plums, and cherries may be
cut from the middle to the end of January, and at
farthest not beyond the middle of February ; the
season must, however, somewhat govern, as to for-
ward or backward. Keep them all over in dry
mould, close under a south wall, or some shelter,
covering them with straw in wet or severe weather.
Some preserve them in a cool room, where they will
do without mould, but it would be better to set them
up an end in a garden-pot, half their length, with
mould, or sand, nearly dry.

Cions cut early are prevented from getting too
forward in bud ; for if the buds begin to start, and
look white, they seldom take. By having them as
long as they may be kept before used, the sap of the
stock gets in forwardness ; and it must first begin to
stir, and so be ready to push itself quickly into the
don, (now somewhat exhausted,) to form a union
\vith it.

The middle of cions is fittest for the purpose ; but
do not cut off the tops till they are brought out to
graff, for they best keep in length. If dons are to
jbe frawportedtowy distance, let their ends be stuck

SECT. VII. OF GRAFFING. 87

two or three inches in clay, and so matted round in
a bundle ; or, if wrapped round with a fine hay rope,
and smeared over with cow dung, clay, or a strong
earth, they will not soon wither, or damage.

Some gardeners say, cions should he only of the
.last year's growth, and others, thai the wood of the
year before Is best ; but it is so far a matter of in-
difference, that they will take much older, though
(perhaps) not so certainly. As a medium way, if a
little of the former vear's^wood be cut with a cion of
the last, and this elder wood be used for the part
grafted, it will be found to answer, in covering the
stock sooner; though it must be acknowledged, that •
all new wood is the common practice of those who
raise trees for sale ;. which circumstance is ordinarily
a presumptive, proof of right. However, if wood
of a year's growth is uot strong enough, then, at
least, some of the old wood ought to be cut with it :
and the bigger the stock is, tne more this practice
commends itself, as the barks will be somewhat more
equal in thickness.

Proceeding to graff, take off a little of the lower
end of the cion first, and then cut it in length, so as
to have three or four eyes to appear above the clay-
ing : two eyes will be sufficient for a standard, but
four is better for a dwarf that is to be trained. In
cutting cions into lengths, let the top eye be just in
front, or just behind, but rather the former. Use
not, (except upon necessity) the upper part of a -
cion, as the wood is too raw for the purpose, and
will be shrivelled ; yet strong cions (properly in-
serted)." seldom miss through drought: indeed' they
will take sooner than, if quite iresh cut and full of
sap when grafted.

The time of grafting is usually from Mid-February
to Mid- March ; but in a forward season sooner, and
in a backward one sometimes later.

88 OF CHAFFING. SECT. VIU

CLEFT-G RAFFING has been the most common
method of propagation, and though it is not the
neatest, yet it is a certain and easy way to young
practitioners. The stocks for this mode of grafting
should be 'strong, about three quarters of an inch
diarfieter, or more if it so happen ; but it may be
used with very young stocks, having cions of like
thickness.

Cut off the head, as before directed, so as to have
(on the sunny side) a smooth part in the stock, where
the cion is to be placed, and cutting a part of the stock
off slopewise, opposite to this place, leave the top,
or the crown of the stock, about half an inch wide.

Then cleave the stock v\ith a strong knife, or thin
sharp chisel, about two inches deep, as near the
middle as possible, so as not to divide the pith, and
if any roughness appears in the slit, smooth it off
with a pen-knife ; but something of the wedge kind
must be put into the slit to keep it open to receive
the cion, leaving proper room to put it in. Cut the
cion on each side to the form of a wedge at bottom,
an inch or more long, making that side which is to
be placed inwards in the stock, thinner by about
one third. Put the cion in, so that its bark, and
that of the stock be level ; and if the bark of the stock
be thick, let the bark, of the cion sink in a trifle, as
the current of sap that unites them, runs betwixt
the bark and wood. The cion being placed, take
the wedge out that kept the stock open ; yet if the
stock be so strong as to pinch the cion too hard, ease
it by a little bit of dry wood to be left in the cleft ;
so, however, as not to loosen the graff, which must
be held firmly : or if the stock be very strong, the
wedge of the cion may be nearly of equal thickness,
inside and out, which eases the barked part.

The grqffwxafc be nicely whipped round with wret
bass pulled tight, and the whole clayed over to an

SECT. VII. OF GRAFTING. 89

inch above, and half an inch below, smoothing it off
taper, with a trowel, or knife, dipped in water. And
as this is done with a view to keep out wet, sun, and
air, if the clay falls off, or cracks, it must be imme-
diately repaired, till the season comes to take off
the bandage, which is about Midsummer, or rather
sooner : yet at this time some clay should be still
kept on the top, to secure the cleft from wet, and so
continued till the cleft is grown up.

If it is desired to put in two cions, to form a tree
for the wall, or espalier, there should be two clefts
parallel to one another, one on each side the pith.
Some put in two cions, merely in case one should
miss ; but it is not adviseable. It need hardly be
observed, that in this case the crown must be left
whole.

With respect to the time of performing this work,
remember that what has been said relates to pears,
plums, and cherries ; for apples cannot be grafted till
the beginning of March, or later, as the season is,
even to April, for the sap must be on the move.

WHIP-GRAFFING has the advantage of cleft-
graffing in neatness, and not requiring the stocks to
be so old by a year or two, as very small ones will do
in this way ; for the stock is directly covered by the
cion, and it takes with certainty if property per-
formed. Cions large and suitable to proper stocks
cannot however always be had. Stock and cion are
to be both of a size, or rather nearly so, is better, the
stock having the advantage in bigness ; for thus it is
not so likely to be overgrown, as it happens when the
cion is of a more free nature. When the stock is
overgrown by the cion, it will give it some opportu-
nity to thicken, by slitting the bark through down-
wards, in two or three places. This circumstance is
not, however, material in dwarf trees.

90 . , OF GRAFFIKG. :SECT. VII.

Having cut the head of the stock off, and the cion
to its proper length, slope the lower end of the cion
about an inch and a half, and to a point; then cut the
stock to answer it, (the cut of the stock however may
be a trifle wider and longer) hark against bark, and
tie them together exactly to their place, and clay it.
But for the greater certainty of keeping a cion to the
part, cut it so as to leave a small shoulder at the top
of the slope, and the stock so as to leave a narrow bit
of its crown to answer it, and to hold it

There is a sort of whip-graffing that has been de-
nominated slicing, or packing, which differs only
from the one just described, in that the stock is of
any size ; and this is performed by cutting the cioii
to a face, as before, and then taking oft' a slice from
the (beheaded) stock to suit it, choosing a gibbons
part of it so as exactly to correspond with the cut-
surface of the cion, taking care to fit them so that the
cion may stand erect (or nearly) when clapped to.
Shouldering is commonly practised also in this way.

G RAFFING IN THE BARK, which is Sometimes

called crown grftffing, is perhaps as good a way as
any, both for ease of operation, and certainty of suc-
cess ; but it will hardly suit any other fruit than
apples or ptars, as other cions will be past use (most
likely") before the bark of the stocks will peel, as the
time iJor this business is towards the end of March,
or beginning of April, requiring a free sap.

The head being cut off, make a strait slit down and
through the bark from the top, at the place destined
for the graff, which should be smooth, and let it be
rather southerly or westerly. This score down the
bark should be nearly as long as the slope cut of the
cion, which may be one and a half, or two inches.
Loosen the bark a little at the top of the score, and
then with some smooth instrument rather of dry hard

SECT. VII. OF GRAFFING. 91

wood, ivory, bone, or silver, than iron or steel, open
the bark sufficiently to receive the cion, by pushing
the instrument down a trifle below the bottom of the
slit. This instrument should be thin, tapered and
rounded towards the point, to suit the shape of the
cion's face ; one side of it flat, and the other a little
convex, the flat side being applied to the wood of the
stock ; let it be rather narrower than the cion, that
it may not Loosen the bark too wide.

Cut a bit of the bark of the cion smooth off at the
bottom, that it may not turn up in pushing down.
It will be proper to cut the cion with a small shoulder,
to rest upon the stock. And because when the cion
is in, it will bear the bark up hollow from the stock,
score the bark on each side the cion, so thai it may
fall the closer to the stock, and to the edges of the
cion. Bind and clay neatly. In this way of grafting
there is a sort of agreement between the cion and
stock necessary ; the cion not being too big, or the
stock too small, to prevent a proper bedding. If
more than one cion be not put in, the stock on the
opposite side to the cion should be sloped up about
two inches in length, to half its thickness.

This way of graffing is used most properly with
strong stocks ; and sometimes is applied to large
branches, and even trunks <of old trees, to change the
sorts, or renew the wood. In proportion to the
largeness of which, from two to five or six cions are
put in, and sometimes of different sorts ; and if the
stock be large, the more the better, as it heals over
the sooner, and as they insure the life of the stock,
by receiving and carrying off the sap ; in which re-
spect a single branch of the head of an old stock may
be left, for the sap to pass off by when it begins to
stir.

Having inserted the cions, and bound them, clay
the top of the stock well} so as to shoot off the wet.

8

92 OF GRAFFING. SECT. VTT.

In this way of graffing, the cions are liable to be
disturbed, or moved from their places by strong
winds, and the best preventative is to tie small long
sticks to the stocks, and then the cions to them, tak-
ing care to place the sticks so as not to force the
cions ; and as the shoots proceed to push, they may
be fastened to the sticks also, and so grow two years,
when nature will need no farther assistance.

Si DE-G RAFFING is done in the bark, much like
inoculation, a cion being inserted instead of a bud ;
but remember, there must be a fluent sap first, i. e.
the bark must part readily from the wood, before
this mode of graffing is attempted. The head of the
stock is not to be cut off, only thinned a little of its
branches, if it be big, and the side shoots taken away.
The bark of the stock, where the insertion of the
cion is to be, must be cut through in the form of the
letter T, as wide and as long as is sufficient freely to
receive the cion, cut as before, with a slope face of
at least an inch long, taking advantage, if (it may
be) of a part of the stock, that is a little gibbous.
Let the bark of the stock be neatly raised to receive
it, but yet no more than necessary ; a little bit of the
bark may be sliced off the part that is over the cross
cut, to receive the cion the better.

APPROACH GRAFFING, or INARCHING, is per-
formed (in April or May} when the stock we would
graff, and the tree we would propagate, grows so near
together, as to be brought conveniently into contact,
and the nearer the graff and the stock are of a size
the better. This mode of preparation is esteemed
the surest of all, as it will conjoin branches of trees
which are scarcely congenerous in their nature ; and
in truth, some things cannot be so well propagated
any other way. It is a method that is, or can be,
seldom used for common fruit-trees ; but if any one
wishes to try the experiment, the stock or stocks

SECT. VII. OP GRAFFING. 93

must be planted at least a year before, first making
the soil good, as it may need, being so near another
tree, for it of course must be close, where the soil
may be worn out.

Plants in pots or tubs being easily brought toge-
ther, are frequently propagated this way ; so that
inarching is used much in green-houses and hot-
houses for various things, as oranges, lemons, pome-
granates, jasmines and vines sometimes : oranges
and lemons thus treated in May will be united by
August.

The method of marching is, bend the best situated
young branch of the tree or shrub to be propagated,
to the stock to be grafted, and having determined on
the part at which most conveniently to fix the shoot,
cut the bark of that part of the shoot off, with nearly
half the wood, (not to touch the pith] 'to the length
of about three inches for a strong branch, or less tor
a weaker. Then cut exactly so much of the bark
and wood of the stock off, as will receive the cut
part of the branch, or shoot, so as to bring bark and
bark in contact in every part ; and if the contrivance
of lipping be used, it will secure them better together.
Bind and clay, and if in open ground, fix a stake to
tie the work so that the wind may liave no power
over it ; a tie also proper for those inarched in
pots, &c.

As soon as the graff has taken, which will be pro-
bably in four months, (except in the harder woods)
let the head of the stock be steadily cut off with a
keen knife, three or four inches above the binding,
.which then removing, bind and clay again, to remain
about a month. In March following, cut off the
branch from the parent close to the graffing, and also
the stub of the stock that was left. The head of tha
stock is sometimes cut off before graffing, in which
case a sloping cut half way the thickness of the stock,

SM OP CHAFFING; SECT. VII*

is to receive the cion ; but here the graff and the
stock must be both of a size, or nearly so. There
has been this distinction made, to call it inarching
when the head is cut off, and approach graffing when
it is not. Gardeners mostly prefer the former me-
thod.

BUDDING, or INOCULATION, though here last
mentioned, is the most considerable mode of propa-
gation, and is a pretty summer business. Apricots,
peaches, and nectarines, are always propagated this
way, and plums and cherries may be. Pears are
sometimes budded, and apples have been, -but the
success is uncertain. Not only fruit, but forest y
and ornamental trees and shrubs are inoculated.
The branches also of trees as well as stems are some-
times budded, which is best done on two years wood,
though it may be on both younger and older.

Inoculation begins as soon as good shoots with
good eyes, of the present year, can be had, so that
the season may be reckoned from Mid- June to Mid-
August ; but about Old Midsummer, or rather after,
is the usual and best time for the work : it should be
done in a morning or evening, (the latter rather best)
except the day be cloudy, when any part of it will
do.

Apricots being first ready, the budding season be-
gins with them. The stocks to be used are those of
the plum when half an inch thick, a little under or
over, and the operation is to take place from four to
eight inches from the ground.

Peaches and nectarines are propagated on the same
sort of stocks ; but if the plum stock is first budded
with an apricot, (very low) and when of proper size
budded with a peach, and especially a nectarine, the
advantage is reckoned that it takes best so, and comes
to a better bearing, producing an improved fruit,

SECT. VII. OF CRAFFINC. 95

particularly the red Rortian nectarine. Apricots
may be expected to be less luxuriant by double-bud-
ding, in which case the first biid should be of the
Brussels sort. /

Plums and cherries may be inoculated on sucker
stocks of any kind ; yet if a free growth is required,
(as for standards) stocks raised from stones are best;
i, e. plums on plums, and cherries on cherries, though
they will take upon each other.

Pears, if for standards) should be inoculated on
pear stocks, and on those raised from seed, rather
than suckers ; but if for dwarfs, quince stocks may
be best used, to keep the- trees from growing off too
fast, and so getting soon too big for their allotted
space : white-thorn stocks are sometimes used with
the same view, but the fruit of these get stony.

Stocks for budding dwarfs should bs three years
old ; but for standards four or more, though small
stocks may be budded for standards also, (as men-
tioned before) if the shoot proceeding from the bud
be trained to a single stem, till of sufficient height to
be topped, in order to form a head. Standards
should be from three to seven feet high, before they
are topped, according to the height they are desired
to be of, as half or full sized; but dwarfs for train-
ing can hardly branch off too low, being budded at
five or six inches, or less, from the ground, the shoot
from the bud should be shortened (at a year's
growth) to five or six eyes, or io four that are well
placed ; i. e. with a lateral direction for the wall.

Though the longer inoculation is deferred, the riper
the shoots will be for furnishing buds; yet there is
this advantage in beginning as early as may be, that
if the budding appears not to have taken, the work
may be done again before the season is out. Or, to
Insure success, two buds may be inserted in the
same stock, (but not in a direction under one ano-

96 » OF GRAFFIXG. SECT. VII,

ther) and if both fail this year, the stocks may do
again the next, as the heads in graffing by inoculation
are not to be cut oft' till the spring following, because
the inserted buds do not push till then, when they
will grow off* apace. .In a very early inoculation,
the bud may shoot the same year ; but it then comes
weak, and will hardly endure a severe winter.

Let the dons to procure buds for inoculation, be
taken only from the outside branches of healthy and
fruit fid trees. If -early budding be attempted, it
will be proper to cut off some spare shoot, (not fit
for the purpose) to try first whether the bark will
yet readily part from the wood.

The season being right, and the cions at hand,
having a sharp narrow-bladed knife, and neat tough
wet bass, set about the work adroitly, for the quicker
it is done the better; but " make no more haste than
good speed." Keep the bud, as much as may be,
from sun and wind : they must not be taken from the
upper part of the cions, as the bark and buds there are
too raw. If cions, or buds, be, brought from any
distance, they should be conveyed in damp (not wet)
snoss, or grass, and never kept above a day and night,
but the sooner they are used the better.

Before the buds are prepared, get the stock ready
to receive them, by taking off lateral shoots, leaving
an uncut single stem. At the part fixed on for the
inoculation, (which should be smooth, and rather on
the north side) cut the bark through to the wood, in
form thus, T, the cross and the down slit being of
the length necessary to take in the bud, which may be
cut with from one to two inches of bark; putting the
point of a knife (or some instrument rather not of
iron or steel) in to the top of the down out tof the
stock, raise the bark all the way to the bottom, so
it will just receive the bud easily. There are

SECT* VII. OF GRAFFING. f . 97

knives made on purpose for budding with flat ivory
hafts.

To procure proper buds, put your knife in (sup-
pose) about three fourths of an inch above the eye,
and with a slope downwards cut the cion half
through, then do it at the same distance below the
eye, and sloping it upwards cut up the middle of
the wood, till the knife meets the upper incision,
so the eye, or bud, will be directly in the middle.

The next step is, to separate the wood from the
bark, which is to be done thus : with your nail, or
the point of a knife, loosen the bark at the top, and
strip it from the wood ; or rather with a swan or
large goose quill, made in the form of an apple scoop,
(having a regular smooth edge) push it down be-
tween the bark and wood, pressing it against the
wood.

Examine the inside of the bark, and if there is
a cavity just behind the eye, or bud, it is good for
nothing, and another must be procured ; for the
cavity shews, that the root of the bud is with the
wood, instead of being with the bark.

The leaf that grows by the eye is to be cut down
to near its footstalk, so as to leave only a little bit
of it to hold the bud by while inserting it in the
stock.

See that the bark of the stock is loosened a pro-
per length and breadth, and if, when the bud is put
in, it should prove a little too long, cut the spare
part off; so that the top of the bud (being squared)
falls in strait with the cross out of the stock. Thus
fixed, bind it moderately tight in its place with the
ivet bass, beginning at the bottom, and passing by
the bud, go on to the top, or rather above it. Care
must be taken that the bud is not hurt, and it is to be
left only just starting out between the bass : This
is the mode of inoculation commonly used.

H

98 Otf CHAFFING. SECT. VII.

Some gardeners insist, that it is best to cut the
bark of the stock thus JL, and so insert the bud by
pushing it upward instead of downward, because by
this method it shoots off wet effectually.

Others squaring the bud to an oblong, clap it to
the place to be inoculated, and scoring the stock to
its size, cut out the bark of the stock from within
(the lines, and having put the bud to the place, bind
it in : but great exactness must in this way be ob-
1 served, that the edges of the bark do regularly touch.

Another way, and perhaps as good as any, is
this :- — clap the bud to the stock, (the bud being
first squared) and rather before it is separated from
,the wood, and score the bark on each side, and
across the top; and instead of scoring the bark at
.the bottom, do it a quarter of an inch (or rather
more) above the bottom ends of the side lines ; then
take off the bark between the lines, and place the
bud, by pushing it down this piece of bark, (being
•first loosened) which will serve to hold it. Bind
•close, but not over tight. If in this method the bud
fits exactly r, it is a very sure and neat way of inocu-
lating. As the scoring of the stock is best done be-
fore the barking of the bud, a little allowance must
be made, as when the bud is separated from its
wood, it will spread a trifle wider.

If the buds have taken, it will be seen in about
.three weeks, or a month, by their appearing fresh
mid plump. As often as any shoots appear below
the budding, cut them off, and also some of the
-shoots above, if there are many of them ; for it is
.not proper that an inoculated stock should have a
large head* In a month loosen the bandage, by tak-
ing it off, and putting it on gently again, for another
month.

. In March, cut the head of the stock off with a
keen knife,, close behind the budding, in a sloping

SECT. VII, OF GRAFFlffG, 99

direction ; some leave three or four inches of the
stock above the bud till the following spring, making
it serve to tie the new shoot to, in order to keep it
to a proper erect direction. Suffer no shoots from
the stock, but rub the buds off as soon as they ap-
pear. It may be of use to shade inoculated buds a
few days by a leaf, or a bit of paper.

Persons desiring to grajf, are apt to neglect cut-
ting their dons till they get too forward, therefore
remember to be in time. To do the work well, there
must be good tools, &c. and particularly a keen
Jmife. Choose as good a day as can reasonably be
expected, for bad weather occasions hurry and em-
barrassment ; but defer not too long on account of
the weather. In handling dons, take care of their

O '

eyes, that nothing bruises them, and particularly of
the buds used for inoculation.

Some motion of the sap is proper at the time of
all graffing, but a free motion necessary for the
mode of graffing in the bark, and as on the sunny
side of the stock it moves freest, and is the best as-
pect as to weather, insertion of grajfs though not
buds, if it can be avoided, should be always on a
part of the stock inclining to the West. Remem-
ber to take off, or at least to loosen, the bandages on
graffs, as soon as they have taken. Silver (as a fruit
knife) is best to raise the bark with, or any thing is
preferable to iron.

Though inoculation may seem the slowest mode of
propagating fruit-trees, it proves eventually the
quickest ; and is the most certain way to produce
free growing trees, with a well covered stock. The
insertion of a bud has also the advantage of a don,
as a failure does not hurt the stock so much. Avoid
this work of inoculation in very hot, dry. weather...

H2

400 OF PLANTING. . SECT, Vllt,

Many words have been necessarily employed in
directing to the business of grqffing, but let not that
circumstance deter ingenuity from setting about the
work; or a few failures prevent perseverance, which
will at length be crowned with success, and the
atchievement be a pleasing reward. Make proper
marks, or memorandums, to be assured hereafter of
the sorts.

Lipping, mentioned page 92, is cutting the slope-
face of the cion so as to leave a rib down the mid-
dle > and then cutting out a notch in the part of the
stock that is to receive it.

Double-budding, mentioned page 95, is twice-bud-
ding, first the stock, and then the shoot when it is
grown big enough, which is in two years.

SECTION VIII.

OF PLANTING.

As so much depends upon proper planting, every
attention ought to be paid it. This business may be
arranged under these several heads. 1. The choice
of plants. <2. The act of planting. 3. The soil.
4. The situation. 5. The season.

1. As to the CHOICE of plants. Trees ought to
be the best of the kind ; and therefore no care in
raising, or caution and expence in purchasing, should
be spared, that at least there may be a fair prospect
of satisfaction. To plant, and after waiting a long
time, to be disappointed, is rather a serious misfor-
tune ; especially when the work is to be begun again
late in life.

SECT. virr. OF PLANTING. 101

Having some confidence that the sort is right and
good, the plants must be seen to, that they ar»
healthy ; they should appear sound as to any exter-
nal injury. If tiiey are of a squat, weak, bushy
growth, there can be little expectation of their be-
coming good plants ; though it may sometimes hap-
pen that a tree of poor promise will rally and be-
come fruitful.

Trees grafted on old stunted stocks, or that have
often been removed, or frequently cut down, seldom
grow off well in any soil, and should be rejected.
Let those that are purchased be seen to, as nursery-
men often have such trees, having remained long on
hand.

Good. young trees have a smooth, bright, and
strait appearance, and are evidently of a free growth ;
though the most luxuriant are not to be preferred,
for their wood is raw, and wants that firmness which
is necessary to fruitfulness ; they may get off this
crude state in time, but the moderately free-growers
are best, causing less trouble and fruiting sooner.

Old fruit trees may sometimes succeed with good
management, but they are liable to stunt, and dwin-
dle off; wherefas young ones establish their roots
quickly, and grow off apace; so that young trees
planted at the same time with old ones, generally
overtake them in a few years, and become greatly
superior.

To have moderate shooting trees for the wall; or
espalier, chuse such whose twigs are rather slender,
provided they are healthy : they will not only be kept
easier within compass, but in general prove more
fruitful.

2. The ACT of planting. Trees taken up for
planting should be dug carefully, with (as much as
possible) their full roots. Many a good tree has
failed merely by being taken up badly, and then

102 OF PLANTING. SECT. VIII-

planted so. The roots of fruit-trees are often not
only mangled, and too few, but are also put into the
ground without any dressing or case.

The less roots are exposed to the air the better, and
the sooner trees are planted after being taken up, the
more likely they are to succeed well. Trees pror
perly packed (i. e. the roots well covered) may live
out of ground ten days or a fortnight, in autumn, or
Dearly in the spring ; but nothing except necessity
will justify the keeping a tree out of ground a day
longer than can be helped, for the fine roots dry oft*
apace.

If it be determined for any length of time before
hand, when and where to plant, the opening the
ground, and exposing the holes to the sun and air,
(and if it may be to frost also) will both correct
crudities in the soil, and enrich it from the va-
rious stores of the atmosphere ; this opening should
be as wide and deep as convenient, that the benefits
of the air may be extended.

Some people do the work of planting very idly, as
if it were sufficient to see that a tree has, a root, and
that it was only neces.sary to hide, it in the ground.
Every one who plants trees should stand by himself,
or have some trusty person tp see the work done, or
the necessary labour may not be bestowed. It is
frequently the way (for instance) to dig a hole no
bigger than will just receive the roots of a tree
twisted and forced in ; but beiqg thus cramped, and
the vessels of their roots distorted and broke, it can-
not be expected that such mmatural treatment
should answer.

But the above violence is not all ; the roots are
ponfined as in a prison, (in a tub or a bason) which,
if the soil is strong, detains wet, and chills and can-
kers, if not rots the fibres. To plant well, the roots
pf a tree shouk} have liberty to strike out freely

SECT. VIII. QF PLANTING.- 103'

every way, and the ground well broke for their easy '
progress, Let the hole for a tree be loosened about
two feet deep, and as wide as will be much more than
sufficient to receive the roots in their full spread as
they grew, with little or no direction contrary to the
original one.

O

When the tree is to be planted, take out the earth
a little lower than necessary for the roots, at the
depth the tree is designed to stand ; then dig the bot-
tom to the full spade's depth. Trim any dead or
damaged part of the root clean off; thin it of the
finer fibres if withered, or matted thick, and the
more of them, according to the time the tree has
been out of ground. Trees moved only from one
part of the garden to another, need have but few
fibres cut off, but some amputations are necessary
to help the sooner to new roots, which shortening
Always forces out. If the root has a tap (or down-
right spur) it should be cut to the ><eral level of
the other roots, and never be lef* aer than a foot
from the highest part of the nx,,. Those great roots
that lay aukward, or crossing, should be judiciously
rectified with a sharp knife; be cautious, however,
of taking off too much, for the head will produce
stronger branches in proportion to the goodness of
the root. Though it be little practiced, it may . be
very well to apply some mixture as of rosin and
bees wax, to large amputations ; graffing clay, or
cow dung may do.

The head of a tree should be somewhat conformed
to the root. Some reduction of the head may take
place at the time of planting; yet not all that may
bethought necessary should be taken off at first;
but let alone till the sap stirs at spring, and then care
should be taken to proportion the head to the root ;
and not leave on a tree too many buds, for a few
stput branches are preferable to many weak opes.

104 OF PLANTING. SECT. VIII.

This is the ordinary practice with respect to wall
trees, and why not of all others ? See articles, Or-
chard and Pruning, Sect. 3 and 1 2.

The hole being made as directed, form a little
hillock in the middle of it to lay the roots on and
round ; clap the tree upon it, and having thrown on
a little good and well-broke mould, give the tree a
gentle shaking lift, which will let the earth in close
among the roots, and bring the tree up towards its
proper height ; by not doing this, the roots are some-
times turned up at the ends, instead of laying rather
downwards: Set the tree in the hole high enough to
allow for a settling of the earth, in proportion to the
depth it was loosened. Young trees, however, should
have their roots nearly upon a level, and so must have
their ends raised with the hand, if they are sus-
pected to be too much depressed. The mould should
be thrown on gently, a little at a time ; and if some
that is finer and richer than the rest be first put about
the roots, just to cover them, it would help the tree
to strike fresh roots quickly, and grow the faster.

Trample the mould gently about the roots, begin-
ning at the outside of the hole, and so towards the
stem. Finally, leave the ground a little hollow on
the top, to receive rains or waterings.

As to depth, trees in a light dry soil may have the
top of their roots settled at about five or six inches
below the surface, and in a strong soil about three
inches ; or it may be a general rule to plant a tree
no deeper than it grew : for trees planted too deep
do not so well. Always keep the roots of a tree
above a heavy clay, for the making trenches in clay
will not answer, and an unhealthy tree may be looked
for. See next article Soil. If the good soil is thin,
the roots should be almost planted in sight, raising
the earth above them. Take care to protect the
roots of all, but especially of high set trees, from

SECT. VIII. OF PLANTING. 105

frost the first winter, and drought the first summer.
This covering of new planted trees about their roote
from extremes of weather, may be either with good
solid turf. Utter with stonts on it, or stones alone,
which by their weight help to hold the tree fast
Litter should be laid about two feet round, and five
or six inches thick, to keep off severe weather.
Where plenty of moss is to be had, it is a neat ma-
terial to lay about the roots to keep them from
drought. If itter alone is laid about trees, parti-
cularly against an old wall) mice are apt to harbour
in it, and bark them: where such covering is used
for winter, moVf it early in the spring, and supply
the place with turf, which will be proper to con-
tinue all summer

Watering is fo take pkce if trees are planted
early in autumn, vhich settles the mould about the
roots, but let them not be sodden with it Late in
spring water will k safely and necessarily applied,
and must be repeaed also if dry weather ; but yet
with caution, for nifty new planted trees have been
injured (if not killd) by keeping the roots wet.
Late planted treesmiist be occasionlly watered
throughout the sumnv ; but those planted in winter
need none, if the spug be not very dry, when let
them have it.

In planting wall tr^ (the budded part outwards)
try in the hole which >\\y they will best stand against
the wall ; and if they \ave a head designed to re-
main for training, placet carefully for the branches
to be laid to ; but keepie tree as/tfr from the wall
as may be, (suppose eig\ inches) that the roots may
have the more room tc^trike behind : cut off, or
shorten much, all rootspointing straight towards
the wall. Nail the tree tjt, that wind may not dis-
turb the roots.

In planting standards^ will be proper to fix a

106 OF PLANTING. SECT." VIII*.

stake near the stein to fasten the tree, in order to
prevent the roots being disturbed by wind, which
prevents their striking out new fibres; rocking about
opens the ground also about the stem, and admits
frost, by which a tree is sometimes lost or succeeds
badly. This staking is best done while the holes are
open, and the roots of the tree seen, as by driving a
stake in afterwards, it might damage seme principal
root, and the hurting a root is to be avoided as much
as bruising a branch. Take care tf fix the stake
firmly, and to tie the tree so with a firm hayband,
that it may not easily get galled. Twist the band
neat and close round the tree first, and then round
the stake and tree.

In late spring planting it will be fmnd of good use
to make a mixture (in a barrow) £ fresh cow dung
andjimmoitldj half and half, to pt about the roots,
which will greatly help to keep tbm cool, and plen-
tifully to nourish them. In deftilt of cow-dung, a
puddte of fine sifted mould and vater will do. Or,
if the soil is light, mix half »ud from a pond or
ditch.

Circumstances may occur tcniake summer plant-
ing desirable, if it could be gfely done. It is cer-
tain that roots quickly strike a summer, and if the
head of the tree is a little recced, and some shad-,
ing contrived' for a while, ven wall trees may be
then planted with such cowiung mixture. But the
greatest point in this busies is, that the tree be
not out of the ground so fig as to dry the roots ;
by some means they shckl be kept cool, and if
dried, put into pond wateia few hours before plant-
ing. Trees thus planted ill not need watering for a
long time, and must notave it, for over moisture
might rot the delicate ne fibres.

3. The SOIL for plaing fruit trees should be
good, or nothing pieasincan be expected : It should

SECT. VIII. OF PLANTING. 107

be sweet and nourishing ; and therefore if not na-
turally so, it is to be improved by art and labour.
Tillage or breaking up a soil, to expose it to the at-
mosphere, is of much benefit. See article Soil, in
the Formation of a Garden. Sect. 3.

If nothing more can be done at the present, at
least make the ground fairly good where the tree is
to be set. Two or three barrows of fresh earth, if
of a good quality, is far preferable to dung ; but if
the soil really needs manure, let it be well incorpo-
rated by the spade ; and work some rotten dung in
deep, below the roots, which will be properly con-
sumed before the new roots reach it; much how-
ever must not be used.

In the case of only making the soil good for the
present, the first opportunity, (or at least before the
roots spread far) should be taken to extend the benefit
as far as may be, even to several feet round, and let
this work be done deep enough, or as low as the
part made good for first planting, i. e. two feet, or
as near upon it as the case will allow. In a few
years this attention should be extended (in bad soils)
to where it may be thought possible for the roots to
have reached. For want of this, a tree sometimes
fails when just come to its full size and for bearing.
When roots reach a weak, ill-conditioned soil, the
tree must fail; and it should be remembered, that
the extreme branches of the root are what chiefly
nourish a tree, and not those about the stem.

Fruit trees (though they like a rather strong soil)
will not prosper in a cold clay ; but in a soil that is
tolerable above, they may be planted, by improving,
or raising, and cautiously avoiding going into the
clay. Some persons have laid flat stones, or tiles,
below the root to a considerable distance, which per-
haps may answer; bat it seems advisable only to do
4t about &Jbot square, (or a little more) as this

108 OF PLANTING. SECT. VIII.

giving the roots an horizontal direction may do. It
has been recommended by some, to do so in all kind
of soil, in order to insure a more superficial spread,
than without such contrivance could be expected.
If the soil be good, (at the same time strong) above
any bad soil, and the roots take to run towards the
surface, it is surprising how trees will thus prosper.

When planting takes place superficially, let a hil-
lock of earth be laid round the roots, and the tree
secured by a stake for two or three years to hold it
steady ; and keep turf or moss about the root till
the tree is well established. The hill may be from
six inches to half a yard high ; in the latter case,
lowering it a few inches every year in autumn till
within six of the root.

In a soil that trees are found to canker in, and yet
otherwise diseased, it is of no use (generally speak-
ing) to wait their getting better; but if there is any
spot of a more promising quality, those that are not
too old and far gone may be removed there, and
perhaps recover ; but let the root be examined, as
\vell as the head, to cut out any diseased part. If
the shoots should be weak the first year, prune down
close the second, and strong wood may possibly
follow.

With respect to the soil that suits every particular
kind of tree, there is some variety of opinions. Ge-
nerally speaking, a true loam suits every thing. See
Formation of a Garden, Sect. 3.

The following particulars seem to v have a pretty
common consent. Vines love a rich dry soil, gra-
velly or sandy, if it does not bind. Figs like much
the same soil, though they need not so rich a one :
ashes are good in the soil for figs. Apricots flourish
in a light loam ; but peaches and nectarines should
have a somewhat strong loam, and the latter needs
the warmer or richer soil of the two. Pears like a

I

SECT, vm. OF PLANTING.

strong but dry soil ; appks a strong and a cool one,
if it is not wet. Cherries, plums, walnuts, and mul-
berries, prefer a dry, sandy, gravelly, or light soil,
though they will grow in a stronger ; plums do very
well in a moist soil, and produce the larger fruit in
it, but the flavour is inferior. Quinces flourish most
in a rich and moist soil, as by a brook or river's
side, or where a rich wash from sinks, or dunghills,
runs occasionally about their roots : in a dry soil
their fruit is small, though higher flavoured : It is
an universal rule, that fruits are forwarder and more
grateful in dry soils, but of less size.

Though the vine be planted in a right soil, yet it
will require to be fed and enlivened with some spiri-
tous manure, either in autumn or spring. For this
purpose water impregnated with sheep's dung and
fresh urine has been used. The top soil being re-
moved, bullocks, or which is best, hog's blood, is
sometimes applied; or it may be let in by making
holes with a smooth sharp-pointed stake, not too
near the stem. A little sheep's dung, or that of poul-
try, dug in regularly every autumn, is a good, neat,
standing rule.

4. The SITUATION properest for planting any
particular kind of tree is to be considered ; for some
like a low, some a high, some a moist, some a dry
situation ; but it is spoken here chiefly of fruit trees.
Particularly observe that pears graffed on quince
stocks, must have a moist soil, or they will not do
well.

The general situation of a country will in a mea-
sure rule ; for though England be- but an island it
Jjas many climates in- it, and certain plants will do
better in one place than another, (even within the
space of a few miles) as to effects from weather.
The difference between hill and valley in the same
place, is something, so that in the latter the tender
5

110 OF PLANTING. SECT. VIII*

blossoms of % trees shall escape, when in the former,
unkind winds shall cut them off; — not that valleys
are always safe, for they have sometimes destructive
blasts from mists.

Peas sown to stand the winter, in a garden on a
hill, and m another only a hundred yards below, in
a vale, the former exposed, and the latter well shel-
tered, will demonstrate what situation will do ; for
the peas below will live when the others are cut off,
and perhaps come in a week earlier, when both
survive the winter apparently uninjured.

In very exposed places, especially northwards, lit-
tle fruit can be expected from the more delicate
wall trees ; it is prudent therefore to avoid planting
in cold places the tenderest, or the earliest, or the
latest sorts. The difference of latitude between
Middlesex and Northamptonshire makes commonly
a fortnight in the coming in of many things ; so
that, generally speaking, what is called an October
peach, is of little worth in the latter county though
in the former it may do well : Without plenty of
walling for experiment) therefore, do not plant late
fruit fer northwards of London.

The farther north, however, is not a certain rule
for the productions of the garden being propor-
tionally later ; for in some parts of Yorkshire they
produce vegetables and fruits, nearly as early as
about London. This has been ascribed to subter-
raneous heat from coal beds, or minerals, acting as
natural hot-beds; but it may be attributed simply
to a rich, warm, and deep soil, having gravel below
it, especially when in a valley sheltered by winds on
the cold side.

With regard to situation, we should consider the
garden itself, and not plant choice fruits in a cold
or shaded part of it : the aspect must be good for
them as well as the soil. From an error of this

SECT. vnr. OF PLANTING. 1M

sort, Fines have frequently been planted and pruned
for years, producing nothing but wood and leaves.

Figs and vines, nectarines and peaches, (as natives
of hot climates) should have a. full sun here, or lit-
tle fruit can be expected from them ; and Apricots
ought to have a good share of it, though they do
very well (in some places) against an east wall, and
perhaps against a west. An east aspect is not so
safe as a south one, as to the embryo fruit at the
time of blossoming, nor does it bring the apricots so
forward ; but the fruit is commonly better : it has
the earliest sun all the morning, and the benefit of a
gentle warmth afterwards, by the wall, (the sun
shining hot on the other side) if the tree is nailed
properly close. See Formation of a Garden, arti-
cles Situation and Aspect.

From what has been said on situation, the young
gardener will be led to make some discrimination in
planting, and not hope to succeed when working
against nature. If his garden is small, let him con-
tract his desires, and proceed upon sure grounds :
but if large, experiments and risks are not of much
consequence. Favourable and unfavourable seasons
make a great difference ; but hope should have a
foundation, and we cannot expect a prosperous end,
without the use of probable means.

5. The SEASON for planting is a matter of conse-
quence, though some persons are apt to neglect it,
who should, and do, know better. The proper rule
is, to plant as early in the season as can be ; so that
if the ground is ready, trees had best be put in when
the leaves begin to fall, i. e. in October ; yet some
good planters have recommended even an earlier
time than this ; and scruple not to plant all the lat-
ter half of September, though the leaves be full on.
Some trees wilL.form fresh roots in the winter; and
those which do not, yet get so united with the earth,

o£ SHRUBS, Sec. SECT, i%.

and prepared for starting in the spring, that they are
ready to answer a supply of juices much more freely
than when late planted ; and consequently the new
shoots must be stronger. Let nothing but necessity
put off planting in autumn, except indeed the soil
be a cold one, and then the work done early in
spring is proper.

The season for planting in a dry soil may be all
winter for deciduous trees, i. e. those that lose their
leaves ; but all evergreens, (except the Scotch Jir,
which may be planted at any time) should be
moved early in autumn, or late in spring, and rather
the latter, as they are somewhat uncertain in taking
kindly to the ground, especially if the weather is
unfavourable at the time of planting. The oak and
larch (though deciduous) are removed safest in the
spring. In spring- planting give a sound watering at
the time, and if late in the spring, repeat it once a
week or ten days, in dry weather.

Let even the meanest trees and shrubs, as currants*
gooseberries and raspberries, have the like attention
paid to them as to their superiors ; for their fruit will
proye the finer, and the argument is cogent for an
October planting of these, as they are expected to
bear the next season. Let them be taken up, and
planted with care ; for the best way of doing every
thing ought to be the rule of practice in all cases,
and a gardener should follow it above all persons.

SECTION ix.

OF SHRUBS, SHRUBBERIES, &C.

YV E are indebted to SHRUBS for much of the
pleasure we enjoy in our gardens and plantations,

SECT. ix. OF SHRUBS, SHRUBBERIES, kc.

and they justly merit every care, though they pro-
duce us no (or few) edible fruits. They assist in-
forming- an agreeable shade, they afford a great va-
riety of flowers with leaves differently 'tinged, and
are standing ornaments that give us no great trouble.

Of shrubs too little care (however) in general is
taken to plant them properly, or even to choose good
plants for the purpose; and hence they often fail to
flourish, and are mortifying us with a dwindling
growth, and unhealthy appearance, when they should
have become objects of admiration.

Many shrubs are raised from suckers, others from
layers, some from cuttings, and most may be propa-
gated from seeds, which, though the slowest method,
generally produces the finest plants. Before they
are planted out for ornaments, they should be trained
two or three years in a nursery, to be formed into a
full and regular shaped head.

Though deciduous shrubs may be planted almost
at any time, yet October is much the best month,
especially if a moist season; the exception being
made as to a cold wet soil, in which all sorts of
planting (as observed before) is best done in spring.

Evergreen shrubs must be cautiously planted
and should not be ventured upon in winter, and
even in autumn and spring ought not to be meddled
with in harsh weather : drying winds are apt pre-
sently to injure their roots. It is a good rule, let
the weather be what it will, and the sorts what they
may, to expose the roots to the air no longer than
can be helped ; evergreens should therefore be im-
mediately planted after they are taken up, and their
roots also very carefully preserved whole. And if
the shrubs are small, and it can be, let them be re-
moved with balls of earth to them, trimming oft*
projecting ends.

As shrubberies, clumps, &c. are often made on

I

114 OF SHRUBS, SHRUBBERIES,. &C, SECT. *X,.

poor or indifferent ground, the soil should be previ-
ously cleared, well dug, &Q&. trenched, and that a^
long before planting as may be. For spring plant-
ing, this preparation work ought to be done in au-
tumn or in winter 9 that the soil may have the benefit
of frosts, and other helps from the atmosphere,
which is a circumstance of nuich consequence in*
the case.

Tillage not only saves manure, but is superior to-
il, where time can be allowed exhausted ground. In
planting shrubs and trees, it is desirable to do with-
out dung, as much as possible ; and therefore a little
soot, or turf-ashes, &c. sprinkled over the ridges of
trenched ground, is good ; and if the trenches were
turned over once a month, the advantage in success
would be fully answerable to the trouble.

As spring is, on the whole, rather the fittest time
for moving evergreen shrubs, and as the deciduous,
sorts do then also very well, shrubberies and clumps-
will properly enough be the work of March, a little
earlier or Uter, according to the soil and season.
Light sand * soils should always be planted in good
time, and any fair weather that appears settled^
should not be neglected: the beginning of April,
however, is by some reckoned the best season for
planting shrubs, A good medium way is to plant
the deciduous sorts the beginning of March ; and,
leaving places for the evergreen kinds, plant them
the end of March or the beginning of April. But
it were still a better way (if the ground i& in order)
to plant deciduous shrubs in autumn, and the ever-
green sorts in spring.

If autumn be the season fixed for planting, it will
be proper, before the frost coraes in, to cover the
roots of shrubs, and especially of ever greens, with
litter, and indeed at spring it should be so ; for nei-
ther frost nor drought should be suffered to affect

SECT. IX. OF SHRUBS, SHRUBBERIES, &C, 115

new planted trees, or shrubs. Let the outside plants
of a new shrubbery, towards the sun, be covered
about the roots all summer : Turf will be neatest.

What has been said of the act (or method) of
planting fruit trees, should be observed of shrubs.
In dressing the roots of shrubs, shorten them mo-
derately, prune the heads so as to form them hand-
somely. Settle the ground to the roots by watering,
and leave a little hollow round about them for future
watering, if the season should require it. Let the
taller plants be tied to stakes, as the wind is apt to
disturb them, and hinder their speedy rooting.

The proper disposition of shrubs, where there are
many to be planted, should be considered in several
particulars ; for the beauty and prosperity of a plan-
tation depends greatly upon it.

The distances must be according to the size they
usually attain. Some grow off slow at first, but af-
terwards get large ; but still these should be rather
considered in a middling way, otherwise the ground
will be a long time naked. Some sorts will require
not more than a three feet distance, others four, five
or six ; but as they are small, when first planted,
and perhaps much of a size, the future height and
spread are frequently not considered. See Sect. 19.

The situation, to accommodate them as well as
may be, according to their tender or hardy nature,
should be attended to ; not to plant evergreen shrubs,
or the more delicate deciduous sorts, on the outside
towards the N. or JV". E. and as there may be an
irregularity in the ground, the lower parts and deeper
soil will be more suitable to some, and the higher
and shallower may do very well for others.

Tender shrubs should not only be sheltered for
protection, but be planted in a dry spot open to the
sun : Some things will live abroad in a dry and poor
that would seldom survive a winter in a rich
1 2

116 01? SHRUBS, SHRUBBERIES, &C. SECT. J3U

and moist one. The more towering sorts must be
placed behind,, and the less so before them, gradually
declining to the low growing ones, m a sort of thea-
trical order : This is necessary in a shrubbery, and
indeed all plantations, but more so in the disposition
of plants in clumps^ keeping the centre high, and
falling gradually towards the edge. Thus the stems,
and naked parts of the higher plants are hid by those
before them, and; the whole appears to the eye a full
scene of verdure^

The season o£ shrubs flowering and leafing is a
material point to, provide ibr, by a proper distribu~
tion, that there may be: a sprinkling of decoratiom
every month, Jn every part. And in this business,
aa equal mix tare of' the evergreen, and deciduous
sorts, is necessary to be observed. See Sect, 1$.

As to the proportion of this mixture, it will de-
pend upon taste, and; tlmopportunity of ^procuring
the one sort,' or the oth€£F;; but the circumstance
may direct (in a measure) ^heiher the plantation of
shrubs be about the house,, or at a distance from it
In the former case, more evergreens should be made
use of, as in sight in winter : generally, speaking,
perhaps, one evergreen,, and two deciduous shrubsy
er one and three may form an agreeable shrubbery
at all times.

A regularity in planting shrubs is not necessary
as to lines, but is rather to be avoided, except just
in the front, where there should always be some low
ones, and- a border for flowers? chiefly of the spring,
as summer ones are apt to be drawn up weak, if the
shrubbery walks are not very wide, The flowers*
should be of the lowest growth, and rather bulbous*
rooted. Towards the edge may be planted aconites,
snow-drops, crocusses, primroses, violets, polyanthuses?
hepaticas, wood anemonies, daffodils, cowslips, Sec. I»
©pea shrubberies an edging of strawberries is propei>

SECT. IX. OF SHRUBS, SHRUBBERIES, &C. U7

and the hautboy preferable, on account of its* supe-
rior .show when in flower ; but in these situations the
wood strawberry is more commonly planted, as it
will produce fruit with less sun and air than any
other sort.

The management of a plantation of shrubs comes
next to be considered. It should be kept dean, or
much of its beauty is lost. Let it be frequently hoed
and raked, to give it a fresh appearance, and prevent
the growth of mass, which spreads apace from the
ground up the stems of plants, and thus injures them
much. The usual time for pruning and digging
about shrubs is spring ; bat autumn (and early in it)
is better, if the plants are well established in the
ground, and especially when old and full of roots.
The pruning should not be late, (October best) as
some sorts are apt to He down ; these, however,
might be left to spring, or only shortened in part :
They should constantly be kept free from suckers
and luxuriant wood. See pruning of shrubs. An
autumn dressing is particularly to be recommended
as lessening the work of spring, the hurry of which
season sometimes occasions shrubberies to be ne-
glected too long, and to be but partially attended to.

The suckers, or young plants, found in digging and
dressing about shrubs, are often left carelessly on the
ground, but if likely to be wanted, ought to have
their roots buried as soon as possible: Why should
they be suffered to wither, because they may recover?

^QV hedges about a plantation, (i. e. for the divisions
of it) the laurel, yew, and holly, are the principal
evergreens ; the former as a lofty and open fence,
the, second as close and moderate in height, and to
be cut to any thing, the last as trainable by judicious
pruning to an impregnable and beautiful fence. De-
ciduous divisions are best made with the small leaved

118 OF FOREST TREES. SECT. X,

elm, or the hop hornbeam, as they are tonsile, and of
a peculiar neat foliage to the very bottom. If a lofty
hedge is wanted, the beech makes a good one.

Old walls and pales are somewhat unsightly, and
if covered with plants are rendered agreeable. The
evergreens to be recommended for hiding them, are
the laurel, phyllyrca, alaternus, pyracantha, yew,
box, and laurustinus ; but if the aspect of the wall
be N. let them be planted late in spring. Ivy, box-*
thorn* and other climbing shrubs, answer the pur-
pose : the white and yellow striped Ivy are beauti-
ful. If a mere summer covering be desired, and
the wall is high, hornbeam, (rather the hop) and
witch elm, do very well when planted close : lilacs,
or even black currants, also may do, and will soon
come to a cover : But whatever is planted for the
purpose, let it be kept regularly trimmed, and trained
close as may be to the wall. The gable end of a
building may be covered with a pear-tree, or a vine,
for though the vine should not bear, it will answer
its prime end, and looks well wl^en in full leafT

SECTION x.

OF FOREST

PLANTING of forest trees, in some extent or
other, may be an object with some young gardeners ;
and those who have a taste this way, and ground to
exercise it on, will amuse themselves in a very re-*
,spec table manner by so doing. Let the work be set
about with ail speed and resolution ; for every yea,r

SECT. X. OF FOREST TREES. 119

lost to planting is to be lamented, both in a public
and private view.

What if forest trees produce nothing for the table,
or no immediate profit, they afford, in their raising,
planting, and nursing, present entertainment of a
very grateful kind : they may ever after be viewed
us objects of satisfaction, and posterity will have
reason to praise the work, and the planter.

Plantations of forest trees do very much orna-
ment a country, and there are some grounds pecu-
liarly situated to become objects of delight in this
respect, which could not be better employed. A
place without trees being destitute of one of the
most useful materials for buildings, utensils, &c. is
in truth to be lamented as unfurnished and forlorn.
The demand for 'wood is perpetual, and the con-
sumption is great; and therefore a provision for
generations to come, by planting of forest trees,
must afford the sincerest (because most disinterested)
gratifications of mental pleasure.

Though every one has not ground to farm plan-
tations of any considerable extent, yet if it were
only a single tree here and there, i. €. to do what
little might ;be iu this way, it would shew a. worthy
spirit, and make a man au honourable benefactor to
society. Cowiers of fields might have little clumps
conveniently planted, without much expence of fenc-
ing. A few trees might be planted in, or rather just
without, hedge, rows; but these should be chiefly
oaks. It is a practice with some, to plant trees ia
hedges when first made ; but they are commonly too
small, and so the quick choaks them, and they never
thrive.

But the planting of forest trees is profitable as
well as pleasing and respectable ; and a young
planter may live to reap much reward from hib
ja'bour, or he may leave a valuable inheritance to his

OF FOREST TREES. SECT. X.

children. " The plantation and care of timber is
like buying the reversion of an estate — for a little
money expended, we become heirs to great sums. —
In countries scarce of firing, and where poles and
rails are wanted, underwood will pay the proprietor
triple more value than the best fields of corn, and
the oaks among it remain a great estate to succeeding
generations." Poor land, that does not answer for
corn, would be profitably cultivated in wood; but
such ground should be sown, rather than planted.
Wet places may be advantageously planted with the
amphibious tribe, as willow, sallow, withy, osier,
&c.

\ For those who may be disposed to plant forest
trees, the following directions are offered : — -The
manual work proper to this business, may be gather-
ed from what lias been already said on planting fruit
trees and shrubs ; and though plantations of forest
trees need not be so nicely attended to as fruit trees,
yet the better the work is performed, the fairer is
the prospect in growing good timber : a check by an
error at first planting is a loss of time, and a da-
mage done to trees which is sometimes never reco-
vered. To give an instance : — the mould is often
thrown on the roots of a forest tree in lumps, when
if a little screened or sifted earth were used, so as
just to cover them with fine mould, the trouble
would be amply repaid by the quick striking, and
future strength of > the tree.

O

Ground designed for planting should -be prepared
as long as it can beforehand, by the use of the plough
or spade ; and if some sort of previous cultivation,
either in corn or vegetables, were adopted, the soil
would be better fitted to receive the trees. At any
rate, the places where the trees are to be set, should
be previously dug somewhat deep, and cleared of
rubbislf, perennial weeds, twitch, &c, If wet, let

SECT. X. OF FOREST TP^EES. 121

it be properly drained, for none but aquatics can do
well in a cold and very moist soil.

In open planting for timber, to make only the holes
good where the trees are set, is sufficient, if the soil
is not strong, (which generally speaking however it
should be,) and in such plantations the plough being
used for corn, or some sort of crop to be carried off,
the whole soil will be prepared for the roots to spread.
A plantation of this sort may be constantly under
the plough, till the trees shade too much, ,and then
it may be sown down for grass, which laying warm,
and coming early, would be found useful. The op-
portunity given to improve a soil by this cultivation,
would insure very fine timber.

But a plan fat ion of trees being made (as suppose
of oaks) at due distances, and the ground ploughed
for three or four years, while they got a little a-head,
then it might be sown profitably, with nuts, keys
and seeds for underwood, observing to thin the plants
the second year of growth, and again the third, till
two or three feet asunder, as the ground is poor or
rich. In fourteen or fifteen years, (or much sooner
for some purposes), the ash poles, &c. will be fine,
and meet with a ready sale as useful stuff: After-
wards the underwood will be fit to cut, in a strong
state, every eleven or twelve years. In the manage-
ment of underwood, some have thinned, the plants
while young, to three feet asunder, and cut them
down at three years, to about six inches, in order to
form stools, which in about ten years are cut, having
produced several stems from each. Some persons
have cut seedling trees down at this age to three
inches to remain for timber, leaving only one strong
shoot on each stool ; and thus finer trees are fre-
quently (or rather certainly) produced, tkau from
seedlings not cut down.

The distances of the timber plants, may be from

OF FOREST TREES. SECT. X.

twenty-five to thirty five feet, according to the soil,
or opinion of the planter. It no view to underwood,
the above open planting may be made close, by set-
ting first the principals (which should be fine plants)
and then filling up with others that are worse, to
within about eight or nine feet of one another. They
will at this distance come to fair timber, or may be
thinned at pleasure ; and even among these, a small
crop of underwood might be had which would shelter
the timber plants, and help to draw them up strait.

As to little plantations, of thickets, coppices,
clumps, and rows of trees, they are to be set close
according to their nature, and the particular view
the planter has, who will take care to consider the
usual size they attain, and their mode of growth. An
advantage at home for shade or shelter, and a more
distant object of sight, will make a difference. For
some immediate advantage, very close planting may
take place, but good trees cannot be thus expected ;
yet if thinned in time, a strait tall stem is thus pro
cured, which afterwards is of great advantage.

• For little dumps, or groupes of forest trees, (as
elms) there may be planted three or four in a spot,
within five or six feet of one another ; and thus be
easily fenced : having the air freely all round, and a
good soil, such clumps produce fine timber.

Single trees of every sort, grow off apace, and are
naturally more beautiful than when in the neighbour-
hood of others ; particularly Jirs, pines, larches,
limes, walnuts and chestmts : the edible fruited ches-
nut is only good for timber ; but the horse is very
ornamental, flourishing however only on high dry
ground. As to, rows of trees, whether single or
double, when planted for a screen, they may be set
about seven or eight feet asunder, upon an average,
according to their nature, taking care to prune
occasionally, from too galling an interference.

5£CT. X. OF FOREST TREES. 123

Avenues are now seldom planted, but when they
are, two good rows of elms, limes, chesnuts, &c.
should be set at the width of the house, at full thirty
feet distance in the rows ; to thicken which, inter-
mediate plants may be set : and also an inner row,
to be removed when the principal trees ate suffi-
ciently grown. Avenues to prospects, should be fifty
or sixty feet wide.

The best season for planting the deciduous kinds
of forest trees, is the latter end of October, and
evergreen sorts, the latter end of March ; though
the soil, whether light and dry, or heavy and wet,
should somewhat direct ; evergreen trees (as well as
shrubs) being to be planted generally with safety,
early in autumn, if the soil is warm ; but in all cases
should be planted in dry weather, that the mould
may be loose to drop in, and lie close between the
roots, which is a material thing : Trees planted in
rain or mists, are sometimes injured by moisture
moulding the roots.

Forest trees for planting are generally preferred
rather large, and being so, should not be taken up
idly, but with as much of an uninjured spread of
roots as possible : yet, free growing plants of about
three or four feet high, promise in the end to make
finer trees than those that are planted larger. Some
say they are best at this size from the seed bed; and
others, to have been once planted out, having had
their tap roots then cut, and generally speaking, this
is right, as they have a more bushy and horizontal
root.

In the act of planting, let every thing be done as
directed for fruit trees ; i. e. the hole dug wide and
deep, the ground well broken, or rather sifted, to
lay immediately about the roots, &c. Let the trees
be made fast by stakes, and litter laid about their
roots to keep out frost and drought. It is of much

124 OF FOREST TREES. SECT.-X.

consequence to take care that the roots (especially
of evergreen trees) do not get withered before plant-
ed. Evergreens do best in a dry, but deciduous
forest trees (generally) in a moist soil, if it is not
wet. Oaks in particular, though at lirst they may
appear to do poorly, grow well in strong moist
ground, and make the best timber.

Fencing is the last thing to be considered. If trees
are planted where cattle go, their stems must be pro-
tected-from barking and rubbing. The common way
of small posts and little rails is well known : but if
large cattle are not fed where the trees are, good
thorns stuck round them, and tied to them, is suffi-
cient, and indeed this might do in almost all cases.
There are various ways, ordinarily known, but what-
ever mode is used, let it be at first well executed,
and afterwards repaired in time, as often as there is
need. Something concerning the raising of forest
trees will be found at page 81.

Whoever plants forest trees, should take care to
dress them by proper pruning, and suffering no
suckers to remain about their roots. Their tops
should be kept equal, and not permitted to spread
too much in heavy branches, but trained in a light
and spiral way ; always preserving the leading shoot,
to encourage mounting, which is the perfection of a
forest tree. The stems of all trees designed for
timber, should be constantly, and timely attended
to, as it is necessary to rub off buds, or to cut off
the side shoots, except here and there a small one,
which may serve to detain the sap to the swelling
of the trunk ; but branches being left on of any
strength, keep the tree from mounting, and draw it
crooked, and such branches, if cut off when large,
occasion knots, and sometimes a decay.

Plantations growing thick, should be thinned in
time ; but not too much at once, especially in hilly
3

SECT. XT. OF RURAL GARDENING 125

situations ; for as those trees which remain, come
suddenly to be exposed, (after having been brought
up under the shelter of others,) suffer, getting crook-
ed, stunted, and bushy, instead of having their
desirable erect form, without which they are not
adapted for superior uses, or agreeable to the eye.

Ornamental <trees> as the crab, black cherry 9
mountain ash^ &c. may .prove profitable,, as well as
agreeable, here and,. there one amongst forest trees,
and shoulti therefore not be omitted : The wood id
good.

VfiiP VriHi

•••«•'. oi. bT

. )J Vfii

SECTION XL

• '.-iji'i/ rtij : r«%33t>2 '>/ -j r^d > ';

OF RURAL AND EXTENSIVE GARDENING.

liURAL ^;?r/ extensive gardening is naturally con-
nected with a taste for planting /0r£<<tf trees ; and an
idea of the picturesque should ever accompany the
work of planting. Merely for the sake of objects
to gratify the eye, planting is very often pursued,
and wherever trees can be introduced to improve a
view from the house, or accustomed walks, there a.
man, having it in his power, as proprietor of the:
land, ought certainly to plant, and that rather freely.
If to planting in dumps, coppices, groves, avenues,
and woods, be added levelling of ground, improving
of water courses, and pastures, making lawns, &c.
-the expence incurred would be honourable, and an-
swered by pleasures of the sincerest kind ! There
are ways of spending money, that could be named,
which are found mischievous in the extreme, and

126 OP RURAL aARDfcNTG. SECT* X

are therefore deservedly branded with disgrace ; but
be who distributes wealth into the hands of industry,
working to useful purposes, and that delectable end
of making the country about him a garden, does it
in wisdom.

Yet here some caution may be necessary. " Da
nothing too much," is a wise maxim. Building,
planting, and gardening, upon a large scale, have
been sometimes attended with serious consequences,
as when a man's fortune has not been equal to the
undertaking.

It were desirable to be able to produce great
things in this way ; but prudence must guide.

Those who would do much in rural and extensive
gardening^ should not (however) be forward to trust
their own taste altogether, though they may be in-
genious. In this business there is no making expe-
riment s, but all should be executed, as much as
possible, upon certainty. There are professional
men, whose peculiar practice and appropriate talents,
will enable them to conceive improvements, and the
best manner of executing them, which would scarcely
be projected by any private person. There is a
variety of works and decorations in rural and ex-
tensive gardening which if injudiciously introduced
might create a wasteful ex pence. This is an error
that ought to be avoided, and most probably would
be, by those who have been in the habit of studying
nature, and the powers of ait, as her submissive
handmaid

Artificial decorations 'are at this time much less
made use of than formerly, and the grandeur of past
times in the way of gardening would now be thought
trilling and mean. Witness sheard trees, statues,
vases, water works, figured parterres, &c. in that
style of gardening, imitated from the Dutch, which
has been long deemed a mere burlesque upon na~

SECT. XI. OF RURAL GARDENING, 127

fcure, the grand characteristics of which are case and
simplicity.

The pleasure we seek in laying out gardens, is
DOW justly founded upon the principles of concealed
arty which appears like Nature ; but still, wJietheF
ingenious contrivances and decorations, (altogether
artificial) should be so entirely laid aside as they
are, may deserve to be considered. Gardens were
formerly loaded with statues, and great improprieties
w*ere committed in placing them, as Neptune in a
grove, and Vulcan at a fountain,, large figures in-
small gardens, and small in large, £c. ; but perhaps
works of the statuary might still be introduced, and
the meeting with Flora, Ceres, or Pomona, &c. well
executed, and in proper places, could hardly give
offence. A terrace as a boundary, is now seldom
formed, but in some situations, such an eminence,
however, might in several respects prove agree-
able.

It would certainly be too much to attempt here
particular directions for extensive gardening. The
peculiar capabilities of any place must suggest what
may be done, and muck judgment is necessary to
plan aright. It is presumed only to give a few hints
to those private persons who would do something
in this way, which they may consider as they
please.

If trees are planted injudiciously, the error is a
trifle ; but if cut down so, the consequence is serious,
and- has often been sorely lamented ; extirpation
should therefore be well thought of before it is exe-
cuted ; especially trees about houses, for many dwel-
lings have been thus too hastily exposed, and de-
prived of comfortable shelter and shade. And why
should a taste have prevailed for so sudden a transi-
tion, as no sooner out of the house than to arrive
in the open country ? or why should an extensive

OF RURAL GARDENING. SECT. x*<

garden be thrown as much as possible into a single-
view, when meeting with new objects in our walks is
80 agreeable ?

Hilly spots that are in view of the house should be
planted with firs, as pleasant noble looking trees,
and very hardy. Beech does well on high ground,
especially, if chalky. In low ground, not to men-
tion alders and that tribe, the birch, and even the
oak, should not be forgot, where wet does not
stand,

About the house some shady walks ought always
to be provided, by thick planting, if not of trees, yet
of flowering shrubs, and evergreens, of which the
laurel will be found the most useful. Here should
be also a good portion of grass-plat, or lawn, so de-
lightful to the eye when neatly kept, also borders of
showy flowers, which if backed by any kind of fence,
it should be hid with evergreens, or at least with de-
ciduous shrubs, that the scene may be as much as
possible vivacious. If there is good room, single
trees of the fir kind, at due distances, are admirable
ornaments about a house, and clumps of shrubs all
of the same kind have a good effect : How beautiful
is the Weymouth pine !

Those who have much space of ground to decorate,
do w;ell to plant trees and shrubs of every kind, as
enlarging the sources of amusement, and affording
opportunities for observation ; but if the allotment of
ground for this purpose is contracted, then, of course,
those only should be planted, which by their neat
foliage, natural symmetry, and gay flowers, may be
truly esteemed oniamcntaL They should be such
as strike the eye of persons in general, though they
have nothing; of singularity to engage the attention of
the curious in plants. It too often happens, that
good old sorts of trees, shrubs, and flowers, are ex-
cluded for new ones, but if the latter are not more

SECT. XT. OF RURAL GARDENING. 129

elegant, and generally pleasing, the practice is surely
not a wise one. In ornamental gardening, on a small
scale, great care should be taken in the choice of
what is really pretty, that nothing dull or rambling
be introduced.

In the most sheltered place, near the house, there
should be an inclomre of a compact nature, as sup-
pose of yew, dwarf, elm, or hornbeam, (rather the
former) open only to the South, as a necessary apart-
ment to place things in from the greenhouse, or
occasionally the hothouse, tender annuals, or any
hardy curious potted plants, for a summer residence*
Spruce Jifs answer very well for a screen, being kept
dipt a little after Midsummer. For this purpose, or
for hedges to separate, or divide, any spot of ground,
the hop hornbeam is better than the common sort,
which holds its dead leaves on all the winter, and
makes a litter at spring. This business might also
be easily effected by planting only elder cuttings at
a foot asunder, which would grow up quickly, being
kept moist for a time.

The walks should always be wide, some (in gene*
ral) serpentine, and contrived as much as possible
upon a level, as walking up and down hills can
hardly be called pleasure. That they may be ex-
pensive, they should skirt the grounds, and seldom
go across them. In small pleasure grounds the edges
of the walks should be regularly planted with flowers,
and long ones occasionally so, or with the most dwarf
shrubs ; and neat sheltered compartments oi flowers j
(every now and then to be met with) have a very
pretty effect. If the walks are extended to distant
plantations of forest-trees, every opportunity should
be taken, to introduce something of the herbaceous
flowery kind, which will prove the more pleasing, as
found in unexpected situations. The outer walk of
pleasure-grounds and plantations, should every now

ISO OF RURAL GARDENING. SECT. XI

and then break into open views of; the country, and
to parts of the internal space, made pleasing, if not
striking, by some work of art, or decoration of na-
tural production.

Water should only be introduced where it will run
itself clear ', or may be easily kept so, as also in full
sight, and some fall of it should be contrived, (if
possible) for the sake of giving it motion and sound,
because a lively scene of this element is always much
more pleasant than a dead one. Every spying of
water should be made the most of, and though foun-
tains, &c. are out of fashion, something of this kind
is agreeable enough. Near some pieces of water,
as a cool retreat, it is desirable that there should be
something of the summer-house kind, and why not
the simple rustic arbour, embowered with clematis,
woodbine, the sweetbriar, the jasmine, and the rose.
Pole arbours are tied well together with bark or
ozier twigs.

" Before the design of a rural and extensive gar-
den be put in execution, it ought to be considered,
or anticipated, what it will be" in twenty or thirty
years time ; for it often happens, that a design which
looks handsome when it is first planted, and in good
proportion, becomes so small and ridiculous in pro-
cess of time, that there is a necessity • cither to alter
it, or destroy it entirely, and so plant . it anew."
This observation of Mr. Miller's justifies the ad vies
given of employing the most skilful in planning and
directing pleasure grounds. To proportion the
breadth of walks, the size of carpets, casting and
levelling of grounds, parterres, &c. ; the disposal of
fountains, statues, vases, dials, and other decorations
>of magnificence, to most advantage, requires & parti-
iCiilar address, says Mr. Evelyn, or, to speak more
emphatically, a prophetic eye ; and though the taste
is not now what it was in Mr. Evelyn'* time, yet,

SECT. XI. OP RURAL GARDENING 131

perhaps, the only difference is, that more skill is
requisite.

What has been said of the difficulty of rural and
extensive gardening, is meant only as advice to pro-
ceed with cautious steps. The work is truly of the
most worthy nature, and a taste for it deserves to be
cherished. Mr. Shemtom, in an ode on rural ele*
gcmce, defends his favourite employment thus :

And oh ! the transport, most ally'd to song,

In some fair villa's peaceful bound,
To catch soft hints from Nature's tongue>

And bid Arcadia bloom around :
Whether we fringe the sloping hill,

Or smoothe below the verdant mead ;
Whether we break the falling rill,

Or through meandering mazes lead :
Or in the horrid bramble's room,
Bid careless groupes of roses bloom :
Or let some shelter'd lake serene
Reflect flow'rs, woods, and spires, and brighten all the

scene ;

O sweet disposal of the rural hour !
O beauties never known to cloy !
While worth and genius haunt the favotir'd bow'r,

And every gentle breast partakes the joy !
While Charity at eve surveys the swain,
Enabled by these toils to cheer
A train of helpless infants dear,
Speed whistling home across the plain :
Sees vagrant Luxury, her handmaid grown>

For half her graceless deeds atone,
And hails the bounteous work, and ranks it with her own.

Why brand these pleasures with the name
Of soft, unsocial toils, of indolence and shame ?
Search but the garden, or the wood,

Let yon admir'd carnation own,
Not all was "meant for raiment, or for food,

Not all for needful use alone ;
There while the seeds of future blossoms dwell,
Tis colour'd for the sight, perfum'd to please the smell.

132 OF RURAL GARDENING. SECT. XI.

Why knows the nightingale to sing ?

YVhy flows the pine's nectarious juice ?
Why shines with paint the linnet's wing ?

For sustenance alone ? for use ?
For preservation ? Every sphere
Shall bid fair Pleasure's rightful claim appear,
And sure there seem of human kind,

Some born to shun the. solemn strife ;
Some for amusive tasks designed,

To soothe the certain ills of life ;
Grace its lone vales with many a budding rose,

New founts of bliss disclose,
Call forth refreshing shades, and decorate repose.

Mr. Shemtone succeeded admirably in laying out
his grounds, and producing a delightful scene about
his seat. Several gentlemen have done great things
in picturesque gardening, without the assistance of
professional artists ; but they have had a peculiar
talent this way, improved by study and observation.
Thus Mr. Walpole makes an easy affair of it, and
says, " the possessor, if he has any taste, is the best
designer of his own grounds." And indeed, as they
have come so frequently under his own eye and con-
templation, he must, in a great measure, becompe*
tent to the work ; and, at least, ought not to give up
his judgment too implicitly to general undertakers of
rural gardening.

Ornamental gardening depends much on the form
of the ground, and therefore to shape that is the first
object. Some situations may not need it, and, per-
haps, a little alteration may produce a happy effect
in others ; therefore great alterations should not be
attempted without manifest advantages, as either le-
velling, or raising ground, is a heavier business than,
is commonly supposed, both as to time and ex-
pence.

Too much plane is to be guarded against, and
when it abounds, the eye should be relieved by clumps,

SECT. xr. OF RURAL GARDENING* 13.S

or some other agreeable object. Hollows are not
easily filled, and eminences mostly are advantageous
in the formation of picturesque scenes, in which the
general principle of ornamental gardening consists.
This idea has been pressed so far, that it is contended,
a gardener should be astudier of landscape paintings.
But without an immediate view to pictures, no doubt,
grounds may be laid out in a way sufficiently pic-
turesque. That view may be very agreeable in Na-
ture, which would not be so in a picture, and vice
versa.

Picturesque gardening is effected by a variety of
means, which a true rural genius, and the study of
examples, only can produce. These examples may
be pictures, but the better instructors will be scenes
in Nature ; and the proper grouping of trees, ac-
cording to their mode of growth, shades of green,
and appearance in autumn, will effect a great deal.

To plant picturesquely, a knowledge of \hs charac-
teristic differences of trees and shrubs is evidently a
principal qualification. Some trees spread their
branches wide, others grow spiral, and some conical ;
some have a close foliage, others an open one, and
some form regular, others irregular heads, the
branches and leaves of which may grow erect, level,
or pendent.

The mode of growth in trees, as quick or slow, the
time of leafing,' and shedding leaf, with the colour of
the bark, are all circumstances of consideration in
order to produce striking contrasts, and happy aflem-
blages, in the way of ornamental gardening.

" To range the shrubs and small trees, so that
they mutually set off the beauties, and conceal the
blemishes, of each other ; to aim at no effects which
depend on a nicety for their success, and which the
soil, the exposure, or the season of the day, may de-
stroy; to attend more to the groupes than to the

134 OF RURAL GARDENING. SECT. XI.

individuals; and to consider the whole as a planta-
tion, not as a collection of plants ; are the best
general rules which can be given concerning them.

" In considering the subjects of gardening, Around
and wood first present themselves ; water is the next;
and, though water is not absolutely necessary to a
beautiful composition, yet it occurs so often, and is
so capital a feature, that it is always regretted when
wanting ; and no large place can be supposed, a little
spot can hardly be imagined, in which it may not be
agreeable. It accommodates itself to every situation,
is the most interesting object in a landscape, and the
happiest circumstance in a retired recess ; captivates
the eye at a distance, invites approach, and is delight-
ful when near; it refreshes an open exposure; it
animates a shade, cheers the dreariness of a waste,
and enriches the most crowded view. In form, in
style, and in extent, it may be made equal to the
greatest compositions, or adapted to the least: it
may spread in a calm expanse to soothe the tran-
quillity of a spaceful scene ; or hurrying along a de-
vious course, add splendour to a gay, aud extrava-
gance to a romantic situation. So various are the
characters which water can assume, that there is
scarcely an idea in which it may not concur, or an
impression which it cannot enforce."

On the works of art in gardening, the following
passage is pertinent: — ".Art was carried to excess,
•when ground, wood, and water, were reduced to ma-
thematical figure, and fimilarity and order were pre-
ferred to freedom and variety. These mischiefs,
however, were occasioned, not by the use, but the
perversion of art; it excluded, instead of improving
upon nature, and thereby destroyed the very end it
was called in to promote. Architecture requires
symmetry, the objects of nature freedom ; and the
properties of the one cannot, with justice, be trans-

SECT. XII. OF PRUNING. 135

ferred to the other. But if, by the term art, no,
more is meant than merely design, the dispute is at
an end ;, choice, arrangement, composition, improve-
ment, and preservation, are so many symptoms of
art, which may occasionally appear in several parts
of a garden, but ought to be displayed without re-
serve near the home: nothing there should seem,
neglected ; it is a scene of the most cultivated nature:
it ought to be enriched, it ought to be adorned ; and
design may be avowed in the plan, and expence in
the execution. Even regularity is not excluded : a
capital structure may extend its influence beyond its
walls ; but this power should be exercised only over
its immediate appendages. Works of sculpture are
not, like buildings, objects familiar in scenes of culti-
vated nature ; but vases, statues, and termini, are
usual appendages to a considerable edifice : as such,
they may attend the mansion, and trespass a little
upon the garden, provided they are not carried so
far into it as to lose their connection with the struc-
ture."

SECTION xn.

OF PRUNING.
1. OF WALL TREES.

this " master work of gardening" it has been
said, " that gentlemen prune too little, and gardeners
too much ;" these extremes are to be avoided, as

136 OF PRUNING. SECT. XTT,

attended with peculiar evils, equally mischievous;
for ['Fall-frees are presently spoiled by either prac-
tice. If they are too full of wood, the shoots and
fruits cannot be properly ripened, and if they are
too thin, the consequence of the catting that has
made them so, is the production of wood, rather
than fruit, forcing out shoots, where otherwise blos-
som buds would have been formed. The designa-
tion of trees to a wall necessarily occasions cutting,
and on the skilful use of the knife much depends ;
but let not the ingenious young gardener be discou-
raged at the appearance of difficulty : a little study,
practice, and perseverance, will clear the way, and
if he does not become a complete pruner at once, he
will be so in a reasonable time, and the work will
prove one of the pleasantest amusements he can have,
not attended with fatigue.

Every one who has wall-trees cannot keep a pro-*
Jessed gardener, nor is every one who calls himself
' so, qualified to prune properly. It is a great mor-
tification to a man, who wishes to see his trees in
order, not to be able to get an operator to attend
them ; let him then resolve to learn the art himself \
and the ability will be very gratifying to him.

Proud of his well-spread walls, he views, his trees
That meet (no barren interval between)
With pleasure more than ev'n their fruits afford,
Which, save himself \vhq trains them, none can feel.

GOWPER.

As many words must be used on this article prun-
ing, for the sake of a little order, and the appearing
less tedious, the business of managing wall-trees may
fre thus divided : — 1. Concerning the FORM. 2.
The HEALTH. 3. The FRUITFULNESS of them.
A tree may be kept in good form, but be neither
healthy HQV fruitful, and may be both in good

SECT. XII. OF PRUNING. 1ST

and health, yet not fruitful ; but if it is fruitful, it
must possess both the former qualifications.

J. As to the FORM, or general appearances of
the wall-trees. If a tree is young and newly planted,
the first thing is to head it down, by cutting clean off
(if it is a nectarine, peach, or apricot) all the shoots,
and the stem itself down to a few eyes, that the lower
part of the wail may be furnished with new and
strong* wood. Make the cut sloping, and behind the
tree, taking care (by placing the loot on the root,
and the left hand on the stem) not to disturb the tree
by the pull of the knife. Plaister the part with a bit
of grafting clay, cow dung, or stiff earth.

The heading down is to be made so as to leave two
or three eyes, or four, if a high wall, on each side of
the stem, from which shoots may come properly
placed for training. The number of eyes may be
also according to the strength of the tree, and its
roots. If there are not two well placed eyes on each
side of the stem, two shoots thus situated may be
left, cutting them short to two or three eyes each.
Eyes or shoots behind, or before, consider as of no
use, and let them be early displaced by rubbing or
cutting. This work is to be performed in spring,
when the tree is putting forth shoots ; i. e. about the
beginning of April.

If towards the end of May there should be want-
ing shoots on either side the tree, having, perhaps,
only one put forth where two were expected, that
one shoot should be cut, or pinched down, to two or
three eyes ; and before summer is over there will be
found good shoots from them, and thus a proper
head be obtained. This work of shortening shoots
of the year may be done any time before Midsummer;
but in this case, all ill-placed, or superfluous growths,
must be rubbed off as soon as seen, that those to be

153 OF PRUNING. SECT. XII,

reserved may be the stronger, receiving more noil
rishment.

As the lateral shoots grow, let them be t'ynely
nailed to the wall, close, strait, and equi-distant ;
but use no force while they are tender. If they are
quite well placed, they will need no bending ; but
sometimes shoots must be laid in which are not per-
fectly so. Lay in as many good moderate sized shoots
as may be throughout the summer, to have choice at
winter pruning, yet do not crowd the tree. As the
shoots proceed in length, nail them to the wall, that
no material dangling of them be seen; but avoid
using too many shreds.

In the formation of a tree, keep each side as nearly
as can be equal in wood, and the shoots inclining
downwards, which is a mode of training necessary
to fill the lower part of the wall, (n«ne of which
should be lost) and to check the too free motion of
the sap, which wall trees are liable to from their
warm situation, and continual cutting. All the
branches should have an horizontal tendency, though
the upper cannot have it so much as the lower ones.
Those that are perpendicular^ or nearly so, mount
the wall too fast, and run away with the food that
should pass to the horizontals, which being impo-
verished by the vigorous jniddlt branches, gradually
become too weak to extend themselves, and nourish
the fruit. The pruner, therefore, must be content
to have some of the wall, over the middle of the
tree, unoccupied; or, at least, suffer none but weak,
or very moderate shoots, to find a place there.

The idea of a well-formed tree is somewhat repre-
sented by the ribs of a spread fan, or the Jingers of
the hand extended. Regularity is allowed to be so-
necessary to the beauty of a wall tree, that some
have even drawn lines for a guide to train by; but
Nature, (ever free and easy), will not submit to sa

SECT. XII. ©F PRUNING. 1 39

niuch formality, and such a mathematical disposition
of the branches are not necessary. A tree may be
regular, without, being linear, and the proper useful
shoots are not to be Sacrificed to a fanciful precision.
Though crossing of branches is against rule, yet
cases may happen (as in want of wood or fruit) where
even this awkwardness may be permitted. The ob-
ject is fruity and to obtain this end, form must some-
times give place. " Barrenness being the greatest
defect, crossing must not be scrupled, when barren-
ness cannot otherwise be avoided."' A tree may be
in fair symmetry, and yet badly pruned; and thus
some ignorantly, and others cunningly, put trees in
order without a proper selection of branches, so that
the best shall be cat out, and the worst left, merely
because the latter suits the form better, and gives a
favourable appearance to the work as regular.

All fore-right and back shoots, and other useless
wood, should be displaced in time, tor they exhaust
the strength of the tree to no purpose, and occasion a
rude appearance. It is a very expeditious method
to displace superfluous young shoots, by pushing, or
breaking them off; but when they get woody, it is
apt to tear the bark, and, in this case, the knife must
be used; the better way is to dis-bud by rubbing;
yet a young luxuriant tree should be suffered to grow
a little wild to spend the sap. There is one evil,
however, attending on dis- budding, and rubbing off
young fore-rights, that some fruit spurs are thus
lost; for apricots are apt to bear on little short
shoots, of from half an inch to an inch, (or a;ore)
and there are peaches which do the same; so that it
is a rule with some pruneKS to wait to distinguish
spurs from shoots, and then to use the knife; yet USQ
it as little as may be in summer.

In regulating a tree, at any time, begin at the
bottom and middle, and work the way orderly up-

140 OF PRUNING. SECT.

ward and outward. Never shorten in summer,
(which would produce too many fresh shoots) except
it be a forward shoot to make wood where it may be
wanting ; but where the tree is really too thick of
wood, cut clean out what may be spared. None of
the shoots produced after Midsummer should be
nailed in, except where wood is evidently wanting to
fill a naked place.

The proper use of nails and shreds is necessary to
the beauty of the tree, as well as a regular disposi-
tion of the branches; and in this business ingenuity
will evidence itself in neatness and symmetry.

Nails that are weak and small can hardly be used,
for they must be of sufficient strength to hold fast ;
but yet large nails do not look well, and they hurt
the wall more than smaller. There is, however, a
sort made on purpose for this work, with flat heads,
and robust shanks, called garden nails, and these
are generally to be used; there is yet a smaller sort,
with flat heads, that, in many cases, might do, and
they have somewhat the advantage in neatness. In
default of these there are to/j nails, of two or three
sizes, that may be brought into use. It is proper to
have two sizes, the larger for strong and the smaller
weak shoots : trees trained to wood can hardly have
nails too small.

Shreds should be adapted to the strength of the
branches, and the distance of the buds from each
other; so that with strong shoots, having their buds
wide, such broad shreds may be used, that would
make weak shoots unsightly, and spoil them by co-
vering the buds ; many a well cut tree has been made
disgusting, merely by irregular and dangling shreds.
An uniformity of colour can hardly be accomplished,
but a regularity of size may; scarlet, if all alike,
looks best; and white the worst. The general width
of shreds should be from half an inch to three qua?*

SECT, XII. OF PRUNING. 141

ters, and the length too inches to three, having some
wider, longer, and stronger, for large branches. In
the disposition of shreds, some must have their ends
turned downwards, and some upwards, as best suits,
for bringing the shoots to their proper place, and
strait direction. Though some pruners observe a
sort of alternate order, yet the ends hanging chiefly
down, will look best. Use no more shreds and nails
than necessary to make good work, as the effect is
rude and injurious.

The hammer used in nailing branches should be
neat and light, with a perfectly smooth and level face,
about two thirds of an inch diameter, having a claw
for drawing nails. As nails are apt to break out
pieces of the wall in drawing, it is a good way to
give the nail a tap to drive it a little, which loosen-
ing it from its rust, makes it come out easier, and
so saves a wall from large holes, which is a material
thing.

Trellises have been recommended to be placed
against walls, as a means of keeping a wall sound,
and giving the fruit more room to sw^ell. In the
training of fruit trees that do not require the greatest
degree of sun, and in situations where the loss of a
little heat is not material, this method of training
trees is a good one. But perhaps there are not
many situations in England, (common as it is on the
continent) where this mode of culture can be adopted,
as all the sun we meet with here is generally but
barely sufficient for peaches, nectarines, grapes, and
Jigs. Apricots, however, may do, and when trained
upon a trellis, in a southern aspect, grow finer, and
are less mealy than directly against a wall. A du-
rable, neat, and almost in visible trellis might be made
of vine.

Trellises should be made of seasoned deal, and
squared to slips. of three-fourths of an inch, or a

142 OF PRUNING?. SECT. XII,

trifle wider; and fixed close to the wall, so as to
form upright oblongs of twelve inches by six. In
this way of training, the shreds ought to be finer,
and the nails much smaller ; but the branches may
be tied with bass, &c. if the trellis is set a little from
the wall, as suppose an inch.

It may be observed, that tying saves the expcnce
of nails and shreds, close set buds are never covered,
and damage from the hammer is avoided. By trel-
lising, a tree will be cleaner and less infested with
vermin, which breed in the holes made by nailing.
In this mode of training, the fruit swells freely,
grows larger, and is of more equal flavour ; so that
it deserves trial where it is likely to-succeed by fine
situations.

Let the young gardener be advised resolutely to
observe the pruning laws, and keep all in perpetual
order, for his trees will run presently to confusion
and ruin, if inattention and neglect take place.

2. The HEALTH of wall trees is greatly pro-
vided, for, by observing the directions already given,
concerning their form ; for if observed, each shoot
will have the proper benefit of sun and air, to con-
coct its juices and prepare it for fruiting.

It injures a tender shoot when it presses hard
against a nail. If the hammer strikes a shoot, and
bruises the bark, it often spoils if not kills it, by the
part cankering. The shreds may be too tight, so-
that the shoot cannot properly swell ; and if shreds
are too broad, and too numerous, they are apt to
occasion sickness, and prove a harbour for insects
and filth : Let the number be lessened at all oppor-
tunities. A slip of the knife may wound a neigh-
bouring branch, and make it gum, canker, or die.
It will require care, and some practice, to avoid this
accident ; and in order to it, keep the point of the
8

SECT. XT I. OF PRUNING. 14$

knife sharp, and mind the position of it \vhen cut-
ting. Cut close and sloping'behind the eye ; neither
so near as to injure it, nor so wide as to leave a
stub.

Digging deep with a spade about borders some-
times injures the roots, and keeps them tco low in
the ground, when they should be encouraged to rtm
higher ; and as nothing but well consumed dung, or
other manure that drops freely, should be used about
fruit trees, it is a good way to dig, or stir the ground
carefully with an asparagus fork. Wounds and
bruises hurt roots, as much as branches, and
though cutting small roots asunder by a spade,
does good rather than harm, yet large ones may be
injured by this instrument.

The extremities of a tree will not be in vigour
without a strict attention to the middle, that it have
no strong wood, growing erectly ; this rule must be
observed ; but when the sides of a tree are well ex-
tended, and full of healthy wood, then some shoots
of moderate substance may be trained up the middle.

The bending of a branch much is a violence to be
avoided ; so that every shoot should be kept from
the first in the direction it is to grow.

Luxuriant wood must be particularly attended to,
to get rid of it in time, before it has robbed the
weaker branches too much. Tliat is luxuriant wood,
which, according to the general habit of the tree, is
much larger than the rest ; for a shoot that is deemed
luxuriant in one tree, may not be so in another. If
strong wood, that is not very, luxuriant, happens to
be at the bottom of the tree, so that it can be trained
quite horizontally, it may often be used to good pur-
pose, as this position checks the sap. A luxuriant
-shoot may be kept in summer where it is not de-
signed to retain it, merely to cut it down at winter
pruning to two or three eyes, for getting wood where

144 OF PRUNING. SECT. XII.

wanted the next year ; or this shortening may take
place in June, to have new shoots the present year.
Luxuriant shoots may be sometimes retained for a
time, merely as waste pipes. More concerning lux-
uriant wood will be found in what follows, and it
must be attended to.

All diseased, damaged, very weak, or worn out
branches (as they occur) should be cut out, to make
way for better ; but if a tree is generally diseased,
some caution must be used not to cut out too much
at once, if there is any hope of restoring it. A
very old tree, or a young one, that does not thrive,
may be cut a great deal ; but prune it so as to have
a general sprinkling of the best of the branches,
and keep short lengths of an eye or two, of the
weaker ones, in a sort of alternate order.

Young trees are very apt to decline, and some-
times lie, if suffered to overbear themselves the first
year or two of fruiting : The remedy is obvious, and
should resolutely be attended to.

A weak tree is helped much by training it more
erectly than usual, as less check is thus given to the
sap, and the shoots are more likely to swell : such a
tree should be kept thin of branches, and always
pruned early in autumn, keeping the top free from
such wood as is stronger than that which is in gene-
ral below, and all the shoots shorter than usual.

Old decaying trees should be lessened a little
every year, and constantly watched, to observe wheie
young and strong shoots are putting out below, in
order to cut down to them ; and though the time
for doing this is commonly at autumn or winter
pruning, yet it may be best done in summer, as the
shoots would thrive the better ; observing to put some
grafting clay, or cow dung, to the part to prevent gum-
ming, which summer pruning sometimes occasions.
A judicious primer may bring the oldest, and

SECT. XII. OF PRUNING; 143

ill-conditioned tree, to a healthy and bearing state,
if all is but right at the root, it having a good soil
about it.

Keep all wall trees clean, and particularly weak
ones, from moss, cobwebs, or other filth; and attend
to insects, snails, caterpillars, ants, and smother rlies.
Bark that is decayed by cracks, &c. should be
cleared away to the quick, either by rubbing, or by
the knife, as filth and insects are apt to gather there;
wipe the part clean with spunge and soap.

Consider the soil about an unthrifty tree, and if it
is thought bad, improve it by moving away as much
of the old as conveniently can be done. The roots
may be laid carefully quite bare, and well examined,
in order to cut off decayed or cankered parts, and
to apply immediately to them some fine and good
fresh earth, with a little thorough rotten dung in it^
and a sprinkling of soot, or wood ashes.

Hog dung, applied fresh, is said to have a peculiar
efficacy in recovering weak trees; and cow dung may
reasonably be expected to do good, if the soil is a
warm, or hungry one, and if not so, these dungs are
not so proper, being cold dressings. If the soil is a
strong one, a compost of fo?vls, or sheep's dung, time,
with any fresh light earth, one part of each of the
former, and three of the latter, mixed with the soil
that is taken off, will be a proper manure ; to which
a little sharp sand may be added. An animal dres-
sing, as of entrails, or any carrion, or bullock's or
hog's blood, applied to the roots, has been frequently
found effectual to make fruitful in recovering de-
cayed trees, and in particular vines. All these ap-
plications should be made late in autumny or early in
spring.

The constitution of a tree is sometimes naturally
barren ; or the soil that the roots have got into may
be so nought and deleterious, that no pains, or per-*

1*

02 PRUNING. SECT. XII*

severance, \vfllavailanything; but continuing fruit-
less and sickly, admonishes the owner to take it up,
and try another plant, rectifying the soil thoroughly,
if the evil is thought to arise there. The smother fly
does sometimes repeatedly attack the same tree,
which is a sign of inherent weakness, for the juices
of a sickly tree are sweeter than those of a sound one,
and so more liable to such attacks. Sometimes a
tree of this kind, when removed to a good soil, and
pruned greatly down, does very well. A soil too
rich of dung also often occasions trees to be blighted,
and the remedy is to impoverish it with a sharp
sand.

In order to health and strength, a tree must not
be kept too full during summer, as it prevents the
proper ripening of the wood, and makes the shooti
long jointed. If more than one shoot proceed from
the same eye, reserve the strongest and best situated.
A crowded tree cannot be healthy, and it becomes
both lodging and food for insects. The blossom bud&
of a tree being always formed the year before, they
will be few and weak in a thicket of leaves, as de-^
barred of the necessary sun and air : But in .order
to avoid an over-fulness, do not make any great am-
putations in summer, lest the tree should ooze its sap
and gum.

In clearing a tree of superabundant wood> takt
care not to cut off the leading shoot of a branch.
All shoots after Midsummer should be displaced as
they arise, except where wanted to fill up a vacancy.
In a too vigorous tree, the Midsummer shoots may
be left for a while on those branches that are to be cut
out at winter pruning, as cutting such trees in summer
encourages its over luxuriance ; so that a little rude-
ness in a rampant tree may be permitted as a neces-
sary evil, provided it becomes not too shady, or ui>
sightly. Watering wall trees with an engine smartly

SECT. xrr. &* PRUNING* 147

on a summer's evening is conducive to their health,
and frees them from insects.

The subject of blights is too difficult to be entered
upon here, though it may seem a proper place for it;
much has been said to little purpose.

3. The FRUITFULNESS of wall trees, (the ul-
timate object of planting and training them) comes
now to be spoken of. Their proper form and health
being good, the foundation is laid, but several things
are yet to be done to obtain the end proposed, and
this chiefly regards the principal cutting, or what is
called the winter pruning, though perhaps done in
spring.

If trees have been planted far enough asunder, it
is a happy circumstance, as the proper horizontal
form, and the open middle, may be preserved. The
longer the horizontals are, the more necessary it is
to be careful to suffer none but weak branches in
the center uprightly. If trees are confined as to
length of wall, they of course take a more erect
form, but still strong wood should not mount up just
in the middle.

If the trees have been properly attended to during
summer, there will be now (at their principal pruning)
the less to do; and the leading objects are, to thin
and to furnish them, or, in other words, to take out
what is to spare, and to cut what is left, so as to fill
the tree properly again by succeeding shoots.

A tree is to be thinned of damaged, unpromising,
and ill-placed shoots, and of woody branches thuf
are decaying, or reach far without fruitful shoots oa
them, and always some of the old wood should be
cut out, where there is young to follow, or supply
its place. Of the fair and well placed shoots alfo,
the superabundance is to be taken away, so as ge-
nerally to leave the good ones at four, five, or six

148 OF PRUNING. SECT. XII,

inches asunder, according to the size of the wood
and fruit.

Luxuriant wood, i. e. those shoots that are gi-
gantic, must be taken out from the rest, as they
would impoverish the good, and destroy the weak
branches, and are never fruitful; but if a tree is
generally luxuriant, it must be borne with, and the
less it is cut, comparatively speaking, the better.
Such a tree, after a few years, may come to bear
well; and when it begins to shoot moderately, some
of the biggest wood may be taken out each year, or
shortened down to two or three eyes, and so brought
into order. The more horizontally free shooting trees
are trained the better, as the bending of the shoots
checks the sap. A strong shoot or two, of a very
luxuriant tree, may be trained perpendicular for a
time, to keep the horizontals more moderate and likely
to bear.

As the pruner is to begin below, and towards the
stem, so the object in thinning must be, to prefer and
to leave those shoots that are placed lowest on the
branches, that so the tree may be furnished towards
the center. See • that those left are sound, and not
too weak, or over strong, for the moderate shoots
generally bear best, Weak shoots are always more
fruitful than strong ones; and if they are furnished
with fair blossoms, should be kept where a tree is
full of wood, and even preferred to moderate ones,
on a very flourishing tree.

In this thinning business, the young pruner must
be content to go on deliberately, that he may consider
well before the knife is applied. To make a proper
choice is the great point. After hesitating, to be
sometimes at a loss, must not discourage a learner,
for good primers often are, and no two adepts would
chuse just the same shoots for reserve.

The next object is to furnish a tree. In order to

SECT. XII. OF PRUNING. 149

this, the thinning of old wood, young being ready (or
easily to be procured) to follow, nas already been
mentioned; but the principal step is the shortening
of the shoots, which occasions them to throw out
below the cut, for future use. If they were not to
be shortened, the tree would presently extend a
great way, bearing chiefly at tne extremities, and
all over the middle it would be very thin of fruit,
and thus a great part of the wall lost; which not to
suffer, is an art of a pruner that shews he has indeed
skill.

The mode of bearing in peaches, nectarines, and
apricots, is on the last year's wood, which makes, it
necessary to shorten, in order to a certain supply of
shoots for bearing the next year ; and thus to have
succession wood in every part of the tree.

The rule for shortening is this : Consider the

O

strength of the tree, and the more vigorous the shoots
are, cut off the less. If a luxuriant tree were to
have its shoots much shortened, it would throw out
nothing but wood; and if a \veak tree were not
pretty much cut, it would not have strength to bear.
From vigorous shoots one-fourth may be cut off;
from middling ones one-third; and from weak ones
one half.

In shortening, make the cut at a leading shoot bud,
which is known by having a blossom bud on the side
of itj or, which is better, one on each side. Blossom
buds are rounder and fuller than leaf buds, and are
discernible even at the fall of the leaf, and plainly
seen early in the spring. It is desirable to make the
cut at twin blossoms, yet as this cannot always be
done, the due proportion of length must generally
determine. It often happens that the blossom buds
are chiefly, and sometimes all, at the end of the
shoot; but still it should be shortened, if it is at all
long. Never cut where there is only a blossom bud>

150 OF PRUNING, SECT. Xlt.

and prefer those shoots that are shortest jointed, and
have the blossoms most in the middle. The shoots
that lie well, and are fruitful, or healthy, and but a
few inches long, may be left whole. Always contrive
to have a good leader at the end of every principal
branch.

Young trees (as of the first year of branching)
should have the lower shoots left longer in propor-
tion, and the upper shorter, in order to form the
tree better to the filling of the wall : the lower
shoots may have three or four eyes more than the
upper.

In furnishing a tree, consider where it wants
wood, and cut the nearest unbearing branch (or if
necessary, a bearing one) down to one, two, or more
eyes, according to the number of shoots desired,
for in such close shortening, a shoot will come from
each eye. With a view to wood for filling up a
naked place, a shoot formed after Midsummer may
be thus shortened ; though the general rule is, to
displace all such late shoots as useless; the de-
pendence for blossoms being on the early formed
shoots.

The time for the principal, or winter pruning, is
by some gardeners held indifferent, if the weather is
mild at the time; but a moderate winter's day is
often quickly followed by a severe frost, which may
hurt the eye and blossom next the cut The best
time is at the fall of the leaf, and should take place
as soon as the leaves begin to fall. November is,
generally speaking, a good time, and if this month
is past, then February, if it is mild, or as soon after
as possible, for when the blossom buds get swelled,
they are apt to be knocked off by a little touch, or
jar of the hammer.

An autumn pruning will make the tree stronger,
lind the blossoms some bolder and forwarder; ancl

SECT. XII. OF PRUNING. 151

if trees are then cut, as it lessens the work of. spring
much, this alone is a good argument for it. This
practice gives also a better opportunity to crop the
borders (moderately) with cauliflowers, lettuces, ra-
dishes, &c. to stand the winter. Pruners in general,
however, like a spring cutting, because they then
see the blossoms plainly, and thus more readily make
their election of shoots. Yet if the first fine weather
and leisure were embraced in autumn, it were cer-
tainly better ; and surely it must give satisfaction to
see the trees in order all the winter.

But though an autumn pruning is to be earnestly
recommended, it were best to leave young trees, for
a year or two, after heading down till spring ; and
luxuriant trees ought certainly to be so left, not only
to check the strength of the coming shoots, but to
see better where their blossoms are, that no fruit be
lost, as when in this state they bear but idly.

In an autumn pruning, apricots should be cut last;
but if spring be the time, the rule is to begin with
apricots, then peaches, and then nectarines. Apricots
should not be so much shortened as peaches, nor do
they so well endure the knife. Shoots of the apricot,
if under a foot, may be left uncut, if there is room.
The spurs of apricots should be spared, if not too
long, or numerous, for they bear well, and continue
for years. Some sorts of peaches are also apt to
put out fruit spurs, and must be managed accorcU
ingly.

If much alteration is to be made in a wall tree, it
will be necessary tq un-nail a great part, if not the
whole tree, taking a side at a time. When a tree
has filled its space, something of this sort must be
done, and the worst, oldest, largest, and most un-
profitable wood taken out. If good fruitful wood
be cut away to reduce the tree, then that is to be re-

J52! OF PRUNING. SECT. XII,

served which will lay in straitest and in the best
form, branching out the nearest towards the stem.

.Thus having finished the directions for pruning
apricots, peaches, and nectarines, a few short obser-
vations may be made, and something said concerning
the management of those wall trees, in order to ob-
tain good fruit.

After trees have been awhile pruned, it will be
proper to look them over, to see what can be amend-
ed, as they will hardly be done perfectly at tirst;
this business may be let alone till blossoming time,
and then so'me judicious alterations may perhaps be
jnade, (with care) as taking put some weak, or othev
shoots, that prove barren, and may be spared, or cut-
ting some down to the knit-fruit, both to benefit that,
and make room, for the new wood : April is generally
the time lor this.

The primer s business lies not simply in providing
a present, or a next year's crop of fruit, but to ma-
nage his trees so as to lay a foundation for years to
come : He is to anticipate consequences, and provide
for the future, as a master man.

Particular as the directions here given for pruning
have been, they cannot have comprehended every
possible case, but good sense and experience will rea-
dily supply what may be wanting, if the instructions
afforded are understood.

Those who hire a workman to perform their prun-
ing, should have three summer operations besides the
winter ; i. e. in May, July, and September, earlier
or later in these months as the season is, taking care
to be satisfied of the skill of the performer.

To preserve blossoms from inclement weather, is a-
thing some persons are curious in, though on the

7

SECT. XII. OF PRUNING. 153

whole they may be (as they generally are) left to take
their chance. After expence and trouble, this busi-
ness is often done to no purpose, or a bad one.
The covers sometimes knock off the tender blossoms,
and if the work is done irregularly, as perhaps co-
vered too close for a time, and then left uncovered
too soon, they are cut off perhaps in a single night
or day.

Many contrivances for shelters have been used.
The old way of sticking cuttings of yew, or other
evergreens, or Jern, (which is best when dry) is as
little trouble as any ; but they should be fixed very
carefully, so as not to slip, or be moved by wind,
rand not so thick as to shade overmuch. A slight
covering is of service, and rather to be recommended
than a thick one.

Nothing more than an old net is used successfully
by many gardeners for the purpose, keeping it con-
stantly (if single) till the fruit is set.

A coping projecting from six inches to a foot, ac-
cording to the height of the wall, is serviceable, as
keeping off heavy rains, and also frosts. This
coping, when of thatch, is useful; but perpetual
covers, if wide, do harm by keeping off dew and
gentle rains,

That is a good covering for the protection of
blossoms which Mr. Miller recommends, " made
with two leaves of slit-deal, joined over each other,
and painted, fixed upon the top of the wall with
pullies, to draw up and down at pleasure, forming
a sort of penthouse." It answers well on walls not
high.

Reed or straw hurdles have been used to place be-
fore the trees in severe weather ; and if only set at
right angles against the wall, towards the east, when
the wind is strong from that quarter, they do good :
,a long tree might have one set up against the

OF PRUNING. SECT.

of it, as well as at the cast end. Hurdles, covered
with a mat, or a cloth called bunting over them, do
very well ; and if too short to reach the top of the
wall, they may be set upon forked stakes fast in the
ground.

Poles fixed in the ground, at small distances from
the wall, and from each other, might be covered
with mats, hung on by loops above, and tied below.

Whatever close covering is used, it should be left
no longer on than necessary, and it should be well
secured from slipping or rubbing against the tree by
wind. It should not be used till the blossoms get a
little forward, nor continued longer than while the
fruit is well set, being regularly put up at night, and
taken off in the day, except in very bad weather :
Trees covered too long get sickly, and of course very
tender.

The thinning of fruit, when too thick upon the
tree, is a matter that must be attended to, for it will
eventually prove loss, and not gain, to leave too
many far ripening. It weakens the tree, prevents
the knitting of so many, or so strong blossoms for
the next year as are desirable, and hinders the
fruit from coming to its full size and flavour. Da
this work when the fruit is about the size of a horse-
bean.

The rule for thinning should be, to leave no two
fruits so close as to swell one against another; ex-
cept indeed the tree is generally short of fruit, when
twins may be left on strong branches. Three or four,
on a long and strong branch, are quite enow, and
so in proportion for weaker wood : this is said of
the larger sorts of Reaches and nectarines ; apricots
may, in general, be left somewhat thicker on a flou-
rishing tree, and the lesser kinds of peaches and
apricots may still be somewhat more numerous, as
the early masculine apricot , the nutmeg peach, and

SECT. XIT. OF PRUNING. 155

nutmeg nectarine ; and there may be more necta-
rines left on a tree than peaches.

As the apricots gathered to thin a tree are often
used for tarts, so are sometimes the nectarines, but
let not too many of either grow for this u$e, or stay
too long on the tree before gathered. Thin the more
freely flourishing young trees, (to the third year) and
weak old ones. Trees should be thinned by cutting
off the fruit with a sharp pointed knife, and not by
pulling, which may tear the bark, and, if joined (as
in clusters) to another fruit, the pulling off one,
often damages the stalk of the other, and occasions
its dropping.

As to thinning the leaves of wall trees, too much
liberty should not be taken, though in some measure
it may be necessary to give colour and ripeness to
the fruit. Thinning away a few leaves, where thick,
is serviceable to ripening the wood to form blossoms.
When leaves are greatly multiplied, and shade the
fruit much, afezv at a time may be displaced, if the
fruit is nearly full grown, but rather by pinching just
above the foot stalk, than by pulling.

In gathering wall fruit, do not pinch it to try if
it is ripe, but give it a gentle lift, and if fit for eating,
it will readily part from the foot stalk. Those peaches
and nectarines that drop by their ripeness are yet
good (some say best) for the table ; but apricots
have a smarter and more agreeable flavour before;
they are thoroughly ripe.

As to the dropping of fruit when it has attained to
some little size, in very light soils, it may be owing to
drought, use watering therefore deep and wide. But
the cause seems often to be some injury from in-
sects, or frosts, that the embryo fruit has suffered at
the foot stalk, which can only sustain its burden for
a while, and then its own weight breaks it off'. See
p. 53,

156 OF PRUNING* SECT. XIi:

* * * * * *

Pines require frequent attention, as to pruning and
traiaing ; but all will avail little, if they have "not a
warm soil, and full sun, or some accidental advan-.
tage, as being planted at the back of a warm chim-
ney.; and though they will grow and bear leaves any
where, they will not fruit well in England, without a
favourable season, or hot summer.

Yowig new planted vines should be pruned quite
short, for two or three years, that they may get
strong. If the plant has a weak root, not above one
shoot ought to grow the first year, which should be
cut down in autumn, to two or three eyes.

The best time for the principal, or winter pruning
of vines, is as soon as the fruit is off, or leaves begin
to fall. November does very well, and if this month
passes, February should be adopted, rather than
quite in the winter. Late in the spring tli'ey are apt
to bleed by cutting, which greatly weakens them.

The mode of bearing in vines is only on shoots of
the present year, proceeding from year old wood.
The rule, therefore, at winter pruning is, to reserve
such shoots of the year that are best situated as to
room, for training of those shoots that are to come
from them, which will be almost one from every
eye. Make choice of those that are placed towards
the middle, or stem, that all the wall may be covered
with bearing wood ; and every year cut some old
wood out that reaches far, to make room for younger
to follow.

The form that a vine takes on the w^all is various,
and not very material, whether it be more horizontal,
or perpendicular. The form must be governed ac-
cording to the space of walling allotted to it ; some-
times it has ample room, as at the gable end of a
house, and sometimes it is confined to a low wall,
or between trees, windows, &c. The reserved shoot*

SECT. XII. OF PRUNING. 157

should be about twelve inches asunder if they are
strong, and weak ones may be something less ; too
much room can hardly be allowed them, as experience
will prove.

The shortening of the shoots should be according
to their strength and the space there is for training
those shoots that will be produced, which always
grow very long. If there is room, three, four, or
five eyes may be left, but not more to any shoot,
except it is desirable to extend some shoot to a dis-
tance to fill up a particular space, and then eight or
nine eyes may be left, which being repeated again
another year, and so on, a vine will soon reach a
great way.

Sometimes vines are trained on low walls by a
long extended horizontal branch, a few inches from
the ground, as a mother bearer. Those shoots that
come from this horizontal are to be trained perpen-
dicularly, and cut down to one or two eyes every
year, that they may not enroach too fast on the
space above them. If the vine is confined to a nar-
row but lofty space, it is to be trained to an extended
perpendicular mother bearer, having short lateral
shoots pruned down to a single eye, or at most two.
The management of vines requires severe cutting,
that they may not be too full in the summer, for
they put out a great deal of wood, and extend their
shoots to a great length ; resolve therefore to cut out
enough.

An alternate mode of pruning vines is practised
by some, one shoot short, and another long ; i. e.
suppose one with two eyes, and another with four or
five. Severe cutting does not hurt vines, and make
them unfruitful as it does other trees ; and therefore,
where short of room, they may be pruned down to
a single bud, or even at the joint only.

SECT.

The summer management of vines must be care-
fully attended to. As soon as the young shoots can
be nailed to the wall, let them not be neglected ; but
remember they are very tender, and will not bear
much bending : train in only the well-placed shoots,
rubbing or breaking off the others. The embryo
fruit is soon seen in the bosom of the shoot, and
those thus furnished are of course to be laid in, as
many as can be found room for, in preference to
those shoots that are barren, which nevertheless,
should also be trained, if they are strong and weft
placed, and there is space for them. Rub off all
shoots from old wood, except any tolerable one that
proceeds from a part where wood is wanting to fill
up some vacant space. If two shoots proceed from
one eye, displace the weakest, or the outermost, if
they are both alike, and the fruit should not direct
otherwise. Vines grow rapidly, and must be nailed
to the wall, from time to time, as they proceed, that
there may be no rude dangling, which would not
only have a slovenly appearance, but in several re^
spects be injurious.

The stopping of the shoots is to take place, both as
to time and measure, according to the strength and
situation of them, or whether fruitful or barren.
Those weak shoots that have fruit, and are rather ill
placed, or confined for room, may be stopped at the
second, or even first joint above the fruit, early in
the summer; but those shoots that are strong and
have room to grow, should not be stopped till they
are in flower, (in July) and at the third or fourth
joint above the fruit. In shortening the shoots of
the vine, do it about half an inch above an eye,
sloping behind a plump and sound one. The barren
shoots are to be trained at full length, and not stop-
ped at all, if there is room for them, or, at least,

2

SEC?. Xir. OF PRUNING.

but a little shortened towards autumn, as in August,
because they would put out a number of useless and
strong side-shoots, if cut before.

-The side-shoots, i. e. those little ones put out by
the eyes that are formed for next year, are com-
monly directed to be immediately displaced by rub-
bing off, as soon as they appear ; and if the vine is
large, and the shoots slender, it is very proper ; but
if otherwise, their being left to grow awhile (so as
not to get too rude and crowding) is rather an ad-
vantage, in detaining the sap from pushing the shoots
out immoderately long ; and when these are taken
off, the lower eye of each may be left with the same
view. But the side shoot that proceeds from the top
of each shortened branch, should be left on, and
when it gets long, then shortened down to an eye or
two.

In order to fruitfulness, vines will need dressing
with some sort of manure, for though they grow in
vineyard countries on rocky hills, and in very shallow-
soils, and have done so on some chalky, hot, gravelly
hills in England, yet some warm manure they must
generally have applied, or expect little good fruit.

Some people are very fond of exposing the fruit
of the vine to the full sun, by stripping off leaves;
but this should not be practised till the bunches have
attained their proper size, needing only to be ripen-
ed, and even then but tittle should be done in this
way; for the loss of leaves is an injury to every

plant.

***###

Fig trees are best pruned early in October, (cut-
ting the leaves off) but the more usual time is early
in spring, as after an autumn cutting (if late) they
are apt to die down ; but if not completely pruned
at this time, let, at least, stragglers be taken out, and

160 OF PRUNING. SECT. Xt*.

the rest laid in close without straining : Thus they
will be more conveniently covered.

The mode of bearing in the fig is, that fruit chiefly
comes the present year on the little shoots from wood
of the preceding, and that towards the ends of the
branches ; which circumstances dictate the rules for
pruning : Two years old wood will bear some, but
older wood never.

The shoots, during summer, are to be laid in at
full length, plentifully, as room will permit. The
weak, ill-placed, or superabundant ones, cut clean
out; yet rather break, or rub them off in an early
state of growth, for cutting branches or shoots in
summer is apt to make them bleed, as it is called ;
i. e. the sap run ; when cut in autumn, the fig will
sometimes bleed for a day or so, but if late cut in
spring, the oozing will continue perhaps a week.

At the principal pruning, the strongest and the
closest jointed shoots are to be preferred, and left
about seven or eight inches asunder, without short-
ening. Let the spare shoots be cut out close and
smooth, and as much of the old wood as may be ;
for the tree will increase too fast, and get too naked
of bearing wood in the middle, if this is not freely
done; and the essential point in the management of the
fig tree is, (as indeed of all wall trees) to have young
wood all over it, and particularly in the middle, and
towards the bottom. Wood is seldom wanted in a
fig tree, but where it is the shortening of a shoot,
properly situated, (by taking off the leading bud,
or cutting lower, as the case requires) is sure to pro-
duce it : Do this in 4pril, as the best time.

When hard frosts are expected, strew some ashes,
and some litter, over the roots of fig trees. Mats
should be nailed over their branches, (first pulling
off the figs) as the succulent nature of their wood

SECT, xi r. OF\ PRUNING.

makes them tender. These covenogs are to remain
till the frosts are judged to be over, and then let
them be covered up at night, and not by day, for a
week or two, to harden them by degrees.

But jig trees will mostly survive hard winters,
when in standards, without covering ; and though
shoots trained to a wall are tenderer, yet peasehaulm
hung close among the branches (at the approach of
sharp frosts) will preserve them. Tiiis sort of pro-
tection, as affording plenty of air, is by many good
gardeners preferred to the more common practice of
matting. But if mats were contrived to roll up and
down, or kept a little distance from the tree, so as
to give more or less air, as the weather is, the health
and fruitfulness of the tree would be better insured,
for too close (and as it commonly happens in conse-
quence too long) covering is injurious to both. Fig
trees that have been close covered are often hurt by
an early uncovering, and yet the spring air, as soon
as possible, is desirable.

It is worthy consideration and trial, whether fig
trees, against a good wall, would not do best on a
trellis, as thus, if they have sufficient heat, they
would not be forced into wood, which they are apt
to have too much of. In this way they might be
protected in winter, by tucking in branches of ever-
greens, fern, &c.

PEARS come next under our consideration, as a
few of the best sorts are a good wall fruit.

A young pear tree, being planted against a wall
in autumn, should not be cut down till spring^ when
the head is to be reduced according to the goodness
of tlie root, arid so as to lay a proper foundation for
covering the wall. If it has a bad root, all the shoots
./should come off, and only the stem be left, with a

M

l&g OF PRUNING/ S£CT. XIi.

few C37es to form new shoots, as was directed for
peaches, £c. But generally some of the shoots are
to be left, with due shortening, only taking it as a
rule, that it is not proper to leave much wood on ;
but to prune down freely, in order to the putting out
strong shoots for parent branches. See heading
down, under the directions for espalier pruning.

The form of pear trees is to be governed by the
trail. If the space allowed the tree is low and long,
it must of course be trained perfectly horizontal ;•
but if there is room above, and a deficiency of
length, the form becomes more erect: Yet even in
this case, the lower and more horizontal branches
should be allowed to get the start a year or two, be-
fore the middle is permitted to fill, which ought not
to have any over strong wood, lest it run away with
the strength, of the tree, and keep the extremities
weak. Train the branches at length, without short-
ening, and keep them at from six to eight inches dis-
tance, according to the size of the fruit ; remember-
ing it is essential, that the branches be clear of one
another, for the sun and air to have free access :
Pruners should consider this circumstance, in all
trees, more than they generally do. The reason for
not shortening the branches is, that wood is always
thrown out from two or three eyes below a cut, and
so the tree would become a thicket of useless wood,
if such cutting took place.

The mode of bearing in pear trees is on short
spurs, which appear first towards the ends, and then
form themselves all along the branches, which do
not produce blossoms for three or four years from
planting, and sometimes (according to the sort, or
perhaps soil) for several years more. When they
are come to fruiting, some pears bear pretty much
on year old wood, some on two, others on three.
The same branches continue to bear on the same

SECT. xii. 6r PRUNING*

spurs from year to year, but as in course 6f time
the branches may become diseased and barren, and
not produce so fine fruif as younger wood, it is al-
ways proper to procure a succession of young bear-
ers, as the opportunity of good shoots offer, cutting
clean out some old wood.

As to projecting wood, most gardeners allow of it
in wall pear trees, though some not The wood
should not, however, be suffered to project above a
few inches ; and though there are blossoms at the
ends of projecting year old wood, yet they should be
either cut clean out, or down to an eye or two, for
forming fruit spurs, as they will often do ; though
they are more apt to produce only wood shoots.
These shoots being cut down again, tufts of wood
are thus produced, that make a tree appear ragged ;
so that whether it is best to cut all spare shoots clean
out, or to cut (some of them at least) down to little
Stubs, or false spurSj is hardly yet determined : The
advocates for both practices, however, speak very
positively for their way.. The cutting clean out is
much Ahe neater, and i v troublesome way, and is
therefore best if *® ^L vVfhut is to be obtained by
it : It has been said more pay be, but I have not
seen it proved.

The occasional pruning of pear trees during sum-
mer is necessary, lest the strength of the tree be
spent in vain, the fruit robbed and shaded, and the
extremities impoverished. Whether all the shoots
that are clearly known to be wood shoots (from their
length) should be cut out during summer, is a ques-
tion, but proceed as follows :

Where fruit spurs are wanted, the moderate wood
shoots may be left to grow to some length, till the
wood is hardened, and 'then broke off to about six
inches, which, being left to the winter pruning, may
be cut down to one eye, with the hope of getting a

M 2

164 OF PRUNING.

SECT. XII.

spur there. But even fair spurs should not be suf-
fered to grow too thick ; trees bearing small pears
may have theirs four inches asunder, and the large
six.

Several summer shoots will come out about the
fruit spurs ; yet it is not adviseable to cut all of
them off as they -appear, but only the strong and
most unsightly : one moderate shoot may be left to
each, and shortened when the wood is hardened, to
about six inches; and then cut clean out at the ge-
?ieral pruning. All superfluous shoots except those
mentioned as allowed of, should be displaced while
young ; but though rubbing, or breaking off, in all
cases are preferable to the knife, do not use this me-
thod when shoots are so big as to tear the wood with
them. Shoots from spurs will never come to any
thing, and must not be trained.

The time for general or winter pruning of pear
trees ought to be November, as the blossoms are
then very discernible, and at spring pruning they
get so turgid and tender, that almost the least touch
knocks them off, or even the jarring of the tree.
What is now to he cut out will be understood from
what has been said ; only when the bunches of spurs
get too thick and projecting, some must occasionally
be removed, and a thin sharp chissel and mallet will
do the work well, where the wood is too strong or
awkwardly placed for the knife. When a tree gets
to the extent of its bounds, it is to be shortened
down to a well-placed young shoot, which may serve
for a leader ; which leader should already have been
provided by the pruner's provident selection in the
summer.

Where wood is wanted to fill a vacant place, a
shoot may be accordingly shortened ; but otherwise
there must be no shortening, except down to a single

, wkh a view (as was said) to forming fruit spurs,

SECT. XII. OF PRUNING. 165

where the tree is thin of them. And when wood is
desired in any particular part, where-r-there is no
shoot to cut down for the purpose, a notch cross-
wise, (somewhat long), will generally produce it,
and the more certainly, if made just above a joint,
or knot. Such notching of pear trees does no harm,
but rather good ; as many choose freely to do it in
order to check a too great aptness to luxuriancy. ,

The thinning of the fruit on pear trees is fre-
quently necessary. They put forth numerous blos-
soms, and many of them fall, and even the fruit will
do so when it is set ; but as soon as it is promising
(by the healthy shining appearance of the skin) that
the fruit will hang, thinning to one pear on a spur,
will greatly improve the fruit left, and help the tree :
this work should be clone with a small sharp pointed
knife.

To check the luxuriant growth of pear trees,
many schemes have been tried ; as here and there -
to strip pieces of bark off, behind the stem, or on
some of the principal branches, half round, or mak-
ing so many wide notches^ not going to the pith.

APPLES are Sometimes planted against walls, &c.

What has been said of pruning and managing
pears is applicable to them ; the branches, however,
may be laid in somewhat closer ; as they will not'
require so much room ; yet they ought to have from
twenty- five teet in length of a low wall, or on a
high one, five or six feet less.

Mulberries are still more rarely cultivated as
wall -fruit, or but little, now a-days at all.

These trees require good room, as their mode of
bearing is mostly at the end of the trained shoots,

166 OF PRUNING. S£€T.

which are therefore not to be shortened. Twenty
or twenty-five feet should be allowed them, and a
new planted tree is to be headed down as directed
for pears, &c. Train regularly as many shoots as
may be in summer, and at wjnter pruning, lay them.
about six or seven inches distance. A succession
of new wood must be always coming forward, and
pf course some old taken out, for the fruit is pro-
duced chiefly on year and two-year old wood ; and
as it comes on spurs, and also small shoots of the
same year, the leaving short stubs (of mpderate
wood) in pruning, seems justified, though by some

condemned.

* # * * # *

Cherries should be found agaipst walls in every
good garden ; but plant young trees, not more than,
two, but better if one year only from building.

A new planted cherry tree is best to have but one
strong shoot from the bud, and then cut dpwn at
spring, so as to have two or three eyes on each side,
to lay in kindly to the wall ; but if the tree be older
and fuller of wood, head it down as will be directed
presently, in the article, Espalier Pruning.

Cherry trees should be trained at length, four or
five inches asunder. The fruit comes from spurs all
along the shoots, on one and two years old wood,
which will continue to bear. In pruning have an
aye, however, to some fair shoots for successors to
thosd that are getting diseased, or worn put. Some
cut all superfluous shoots clean away, arid others
leave a sprinkling of short stubs, which may be a!T
lowed ; but let them not advance far foreright.

The moreUa cherry has a different mode of bear-
ing from others, the fruit proceeding mostly from
ejes along the branches of new, or year old wood ;
the pruner, therefore, is to lay in a proper supply of
young wood every vear, always removing older wood
1

SECT. XII. OF PRUNING, iff?

to make room accordingly. For the better oppor-
tunity of furnishing the tree with young wood, the
bearing branches of this tree should be at six inches
distance, and then one young shoot trained between,
makes them three inches distant, closer than which
they must not be. The morella, it is clear, ought to
have no stubs left in pruning with a view to spurs.,
nor must any foreright shoots be suffered to grow at
all, but let them be rubied off while very young, or
rather while in the bud.

The mordla cherry is commonly planted against
north walls, where they grow large and hang long,
as they are commonly not wanted till late in the
season to preserve; but if planted upon warmer
walls, their fruit is finer, and (when thoroughly ripe)
excellent for table use in September, or October, ac-
cording to the aspect of their growth; Yet a fuH
south wall may be too hot for it.

PLUMS of the finer sorts are often planted against
walls, and deserve a good one.

For the pruning of plum trees, the directions
given for cherries apply to them ; only that the
branches should be laid somewhat wider ; i. e. at
five or six inches, according to the sorts as free or
less free in their growth ; many let these trees pro-
ject too much.

# * * # * *

FILBERDS, or other nuts, may be trained. Lay
them at full length, the branches about six inches
distance, shortening only the shoots of new planted
trees, in order to the furnishing a proper head and
spread of branches, which should be kept very hori-
zontal, to check their free growth.

They bear upon the sides and ends of the upper
young branches ; so that young wood must be

168 Of PRUNING. SECT. XII.

continually bringing in, by removing some of the
old.

*;*****

Currants and sometimes Gooseberries are planted
against walls ; but they should be clean walls

Train the lower branches somewhat horizontal as
far as their allotted room and then train upwards,
filling the middle as they grow. Keep the branches
about five or six inches asunder. They bear fruit
upon young wood, and on little spurs of the old.
Superfluous shoots of the trained branches, are to
be cut down to little stubs or spurs, about half an
inch long, which will throw out fruit shoots and
spurs. The mother branches of currants and goose-
berries will last many years ; but when good young
wood can be brought in for principals, a renewal
every three or four years is necessary to produce
fine fruit. Take care to provide shoots to the very
bottom of the wall, that no space may be lost. In
the early gathering of these fruits for pies or tarts,
there should be left a sprinkling all over the trees
to come on for table frujt. They will thus prove
very fine.

*#* One general observation may be here made :
that all fruit trees mentioned since vines, are pruned
much in the same way, so that the young gardener
will not find the business of pruning so intricate as
he might imagine, from the number of words sever-
ally bestowed on the occasion.

p- Wall trees are spoken of as to situation, dis-
tance, &c. in the section of the Formation of a
Garden, which see, with other particulars concerning
» them.

SECT, ill.

OF PRUNING. 169

2. OF PRUNING ESPALIER TREES.

The work of pruning espalier trees is much the
same as for wall trees. The only difference is, that
instead of being spread upon walls, the branches are
fastened to stakes, or frames, as trellises. The fas-
tenings are commonly ties of ozier twigs, bark of
withy, bass, yarn, or soft packthread, instead of
nails, which however may be used to frame work, if
they are small and sharp pointed. See formation of
a garden.

As trees planted for espalier training should be
young, let great care be taken to set them off right
at first, by regular shoots, full furnished immediately
from the stern ; which is effected by proper heading
down, as below ; and as was directed for wall trees,
page 137. Apples, pears, plums, cherries, &c. in
the general need not to be so much freed of all
branches at planting, as peaches, nectarines, and
apricots : There are however gardeners who prune
down to the stem, all sorts of wall and ebpalier
trees, as peaches are.

The heading down of a young tree, (i. e. apple,

&c.) for an espalier, that has only one shoot from

the graffing, or budding, should be so low, as to leave

two or three, or at the most four eyes on each side

of the stem, from which will proceed shoots properly

placed for training. If the tree has two shoots, one

on each side, which branch out right and left, so as

to be made principal leaders, cut each of them down

to three or four eyes. If it has three shoots, the

upper one, if not over strong, being shortened down

to a few eyes, may be trained strait up, and the two

lower ones shortened as above, for laterals; and

and thus a good foundation will be made for a

proper spread of branches. If it has four shoots

170 OF PRUNING. SECT. XII.

properly placed for training, two on each side, the
lower one may be cut down, to seven or eight eyes,
and that above to three or four : If the tree has
more shoots, they may be either all cut out to two
on each side, shortening as before, or one (if not over
strong) left perpendicular, being cut down to a few
eyes : or if the tree is somewhat old, and has a good
root, more well-placed shoots may be left on, keep-
ing the lowermost longer than the upper by two or
three eyes, making the upper ones very short. If
these directions are properly observed, an espalier
(or a wall) will be properly and presently filled.

The best time for heading down is the spring,
though when trees are planted early in autumn, it may
be then done. All cuts should be close behind an eye.
When a strong stem is to be cut down at spring, re-
member to place the foot against it, to keep the root
in its place, and use a sharp knife.

Heading down is advised to be deferred till spring^
not only on account of frosts possibly injuring the
top eye of the fresh cut shoots ; but because the
head of a tree on helps to push out roots. The
properest time to prune the heads of new planted
trees, is when new roots are formed ; and then a
head disproportioned to the roots should by no
means be suffered, as the new shoots would come
too weak to be healthy, or fruitful. For planting
espaliers, &c. See page 37.

3. OF PRUNING STANDARD TREES.

The principle of pruning standard trees is the
same, whether full, half, or dwarf standards ; and
the object is to form a compact handsome round and
open head rather small than large, equal on all sides,
witii tolerably erect wood, capable (as far as the art
of the pruner can go) of supporting the fruit with-*

SECT. XII. OF PUUN1NG.

out much bending. Perfect symmetry indeed is not
necessary, but confusion of branches, weak and
crossing, crowded and dangling, is to be prevented
by pruning ; for a proper, (rather free) use of the
knite, is capable of doing much towards the beauty
pnd fruitfulness of standard trees. A little pruning
of standards every year, and a general one (rather
free) every three or four years, to cut out what is
Decayed, and some of the older wood, where a sue -
sessional supply of young may be obtained to suc-
ceed, is the best way to keep them in vigour, and
have the best of fruit ; for that which grows on eld
wood, gets small and austere. To take off large
branches a thin broad chmel is proper ; but if a
saw is used, smooth the part with a knife.

Clear trees from moss, by scraping them with a
long narrow bladed blunt knife, on a bit of hard
wood, and cut3 or rub off bits of decayed bark, in
which insects are apt to breed, and wipe all quite
clean. Some use a scouring brush in this business,
the long end hairs of which are well adapted to clean
the forky parts. A bit of haircloth is also used for
the purpose ; and a finish is properly made to do
the business well, with a brush and soap and water.

In the first year of newr planted standards, they
are to be cleared in the springy of all weak and im-
proper shpots, reserving only a few of the strongest
If there are four regularly placed shoots opposite to
each other, it is sufficient to form a good head, short-
ening them down to a few eyes each, or, (in general)
cutting off about one-third may be a rule. What
the head will be, may be pretty well foreseen, by
conceiving two or three shoots to come from the
buds which are placed below the cut.

If the shoots of the tree are weak, or the root
but a poor one, cut the reserved shoots down to two
eyes each. If the head is not regularly furnished with

172" OF PRUNING. SECT.

shoots, a judicious pruner will yet be able to ma-
nceuvre it into form in a year or two, and this must
be? effected by close pruning the first year.

The second year (rather in spring) attend to the
head, and cut out, or shorten, so as to provide for
the future form and strength of the tree ; reserving
only such shoots as recommend themselves for their
position and vigour, as widely placed as may be
from each other, and but few in number. After this,
the head will form itself, so as to need only cutting
clean out a few superfluities : but -no shortening is
allowed, except some of the lowest branches, or any
one where wood is wanted to fill a vacancy ; for
which purpose, a weak shoot may do, cut down to
one or two eyes.

If trees are too full of wood, the shoots must ne-
cessarily be drawn weak and long jointed, and so be
the less fruitful, and unable to support the fruit they
have; but on the other hand, too much pruning wirL
occasion a tree to be always putting forth more un-
fruitful wood, and so a medium must be observed.
The branches should be kept about six inches
asunder; and as superfluous weak shoots will of
course be cut out, so let also the over strong wood :
for though it is desirable to have standard trees of
able wood, yet those shoots that much exceed the
size of the rest, would, if left on, weaken the others,
and make an awkward tree.

Let no shoots remain on the stems, below the
head, nor suckers above the roots. With respect to
cherry trees, rather than cut more than necessary,
drooping branches may be suffered, as the fruit is
not heavy, and the heads of cherry trees may be
fuller than other fruit trees. Wherever a cut is
made in a full headed standard to shorten a shoot,
if should be (generally) at an eye situated within
side, that so the shoot from it may naturally pomt.

SECT. XII. OF PRUNING. 173

more erectly, as the weight of the fruit is found too
much for those branches that grow downwards, or
quite horizontal.

Gooseberries and currants may be ranked under
the denomination of dwarf trees, and the principle
of pruning them will be the same, as for other
standard trees ; only more frequently cutting out
old wood, to make room for a succession of young.
The keeping these trees, or bushes, more open than
they commonly are, would improve the fruit in size
and flavour, and bring it forwarder ; yet some of
them should be suffered to grow rather full of wood,
in order to keep the fruit longer, especially in a
northern aspect of the garden, or some shady place;
and if to this situation and fulness, be added matting
or netting, they may be preserved till November.

The time of pri «jing these trees, is commonly held
to be indifferent, and any time between leaf and leaf
may be adopted to cut them as opportunity offers.
But when they are getting into leaf is (perhaps) the
best time ; as when pruned early , there is frequently
a loss of almost the whole fruit, by birds eating the
buds. Leaving the whole head on till spring^ is a
security as to a crop of fruit, as the case would be
bad indeed, if some good branches are not left, pro-
perl v furnished with uninjured buds; but still it is
allowed, that an early pruning strengthens the. tree,
and tends to enerease the size of the fruit.

Currant trees need not to be kept so open as
gooseberry, the branches of which should be (for
fine fruit) five or six inches asunder, and as little;
shortened as possible. Those sorts of gooseberries
whose shoots grow in a curved manner, may have
their long branches, when in fruit, supported witU
little forked sticks. Keep these trees clear of suck-
ers, and all shoots from the stem, that are within
nine or ten inches of the ground.

174 OF PRUNING. SECT.

For planting standards in orchards, &c. See
section 3.

4. OF PRUNING SHRUBS.

Many shrubs are cultivated for their ornament ,
and some for their fruit ; of the latter kind are
raspberries and barberries.

RASPBERRIES bear fruit on little side shoots of
the present year, proceeding from stems of the last*
and sometimes produce a little on those of the same
year. To prune or dress the shrub, therefore, first
cut out all the old bearers, whose wood dies, then
cut out, close to the stool, all the new shoots, except
three or four of the best situated and strongest,
which may be carefully twisted from the bottom up-
wards, or tied together at the top, or if upright and
strong, left to support themselves singly. The beslr
situated, or those standing close together, near the
centre of the stool, and ranging well in the row, are
those to be selected. This done, let all straggling
shoots between the rows be clean dug out. Shorter!
raspberries, either just below the bend, and leave
them from three to four ieet high, or a little mor6
according to their strength.

Raspberries must not much be shortened in sum-
mer ; the time for cutting them is from October all
through winter, till they begin to shoot at spring,
though the former is the best time, especially if any
thing is to be planted between their rows. See

page 39.

* * * * * *

BARBERRY; is a beautiful and somewhat large
shrubs, which should be suffered to grow with a full
head, like a dwarf standard tree. It bears along
tbe sides of both young and old wood, chiefly to-
wards the ends, and its branches should, therefore,

SECT. xir. OF PRDNIN&.

not be shortened, except with a view to throw out
wood. Keep the root free from suckers, and the
steal from shoots in its lower part, and prune out
weak, luxuriant, straggling, and crossing branches,
forming it to a somewhat round head, which keep
moderately open. Let the stem be freed from lower
branches to the height of three, four or five feetj ac-
cording as the shrub may be desired to approach to-
wards a tree. See page 80.

STRAWBERRIES require pruning off the runners
during summer, which strengthens the plants, keeps
the soil from being exhausted, and gives all a neat
air of culture. This work should be particularly
followed up in edgings of strawberries, that they may
not run over the walks : If plants, however, are
wanted for new beds, they must be suffered to run
a little. See pages 39, 80.

The dressing of strawberries consists not only of
pruning from runners ; but cutting down the great
leaves in autumn (early) with a scythe ; or, which is
better, by taking them up in the hand, and using a
knife. At this time they must be weeded, and the
ground stirred between them, deep enough to cut the
ends of the roots a little. Then there should be
spread over the beds a little rotten dung, or good
fresh earth, and all afterwards kept free from weeds.
Let the surface of the ground be stirred again irt
spring, and any hollows that may be between the
plants filled up with earth, and a little dung amongst
it, if none was applied in autumn. Thus with good
management the delicious strawberry will be had in
abundance and perfection, the season not being un-
propitious.

FLOWERING SHRUBS are of great variety, and the
method of pruning them is to be determined accord-

176 OF PRUNING. SECT. XII-

ing to the several modes of bearing^ of which con-
sider chiefly these; that is, whether they produce
their flowers upon the last year's shoots, or the pre-
sent ; on the ends, or the sides of their branches. If
a shrub bears on the last year's shoots, it is evident
that it must be cut away no more than is necessary
to keep it within bounds, open, and handsome as to
its form ; in this case, it is the business to cut clean
out, or very low, what is to be spared. If a shrub
bears on the present year's shoots, the old wood may,
and must be cut down freely, so however as to leave
eyes enough for new shoots to pruceed from, to make
a sufficient head and show. If the shrub bears al-
togetherj or chiefly at its ends, no shortening must
take place; but if some of the branches are loo
long, they may be either cut out, or quite low, leav-
ing the shorter ones to bear. If the shrub bears
along its sides, the shortening is of no consequence,
and the desired form may be freely provided for at
pleasure.

The season for pruning shrubs is generally reckoned
the spring, but autumn is better, if not too near win-
ter ; as at this time, sharp weather might occasion
some of the sorts, (as jasmines and honeysuckles) to
die down. The time of flowering, must in some
measure direct the time of pruning. Shrubs that
flower in winter, (as the laurustinus^) should be
cut in spring. Those that flower in spring may be
pruned immediately after their blow, or in summer.
Those that flower in summer showld be pruned in
autumn ; and those that flower in autumn should
be pruned either soon after flowering or early in
spring.

Be sure to take off in time, i. e. as soon as disco-
vered, all suckers and over strong shoots from
shrubs ; for by their luxuriancy they greatly im-
poverish the proper sized branches, which are the

SECT. XII. OF PRUNING. 177

fruitful ones; such large sappy wood looks also
unsightly.

The height of shrubs in certain situations, is ma-
terial, and to provide for this, the art of pruning is
in a great measure competent. To keep them low,
cutting down is of course necessary ; but it will be
well also to make the soil poor if too rich. To en-
courage them to mount, keep trimming off close the
lower branches, and improve the ground by digging
and dressing occasionally.

Flowering shrubs should be attended to, as to
pruning, than they commonly are ; for we sometimes
see them either wholly neglected, or cut down at
random, perhaps only sheared into a little form ; and
so they make a return quite suitable to the desert of
the owner for his neglect. To be crouding full of
branches, prevents the production of flowers. Shrubs
should not be choaked up from sun -and air, either in
themselves, or by their neighbours : The larger plants
must not be suffered to overshadow the less, if
possible.

The general directions already given for pruning
shrubs might suffice, but that the young gardener
may not have to discover (by observation alone) the
proper application of the given rules, he is here
particularly directed to the work of pruning a Jew of
the more common sorts.

Roses bear upon shoots of the present year, and
upon those formed after Midsummer in the past year,
but chiefly upon the former. Therefore, they may,
or rather should be cut down low, leaving only three
or four eyes io a shoot ; except some of those short
shoots formed the last year too late to blow then,
which leave whole. If rose trees are not close pruned
they will be unable to support their flowers properly.
Use a sharp knife and cut close behind an eye or

N

173 OF PRUNING; SECT.

bud. Roses for forcing should be pruned in July
and August.

Honeysuckles flower on shoots of the present year,
and therefore whether trained to walls or kept in
bushes, should be also pruned close, but not so short
in the latter case as the former; for those against
malls should be cut down to an eye or two, and those
in bushes to three or four eyes.

Siccetbriars flower on shoots of the present year,
and therefore should be cut after the manner of
honey- suckles. These shrubs are seldom cleared
from strong wood, or pruned enough ; so that in a few
years they get very rambling and unsightly; but if kept
compact we have beauty, as well as sweetness, to re-
cornpence our care. In all cases, a less number of
fine flowers, obtained by short and open pruning, is
certainly preferable to many indifferent ones.

Lilacs bear their flowers at the ends of shoots of
the last year, so of course at spring must not b^
shortened. If got rambling and crowded, cut either
clean out, or very low, what may be superfluous.
If they need much reduction, let them be cut down
HS soon (or somewhat before) they have got off
flower, and then the shoots that come after will form
tbr blow before the summer is out, for next year.

Laburnhains bear along the sides and ends of old
wood.

Jasmines should be pruned down close, even to
halt an inch, and when trained to a wall, the shoots
kept rather wide, like vines, (particularly the scarlet
trumpet sort) as they bear at the ends of weak
shoots of the year ; which should therefore (as all
others bearing in the same way) never be touched in
summer with a knife, but be suffered to grow rude.

Sennas letr also on shoots of the present year, yet
arc best leit rather i'uii of wood : prune them as sooa
fts elf flower.

S

SECT. XIII. OF HOT BEDS.. 179

Syringa, or Mack Orange, and ffypericum frutex,
bear along the sides, as well as ends, of old wood,
and of course may freely be shortened.

Spirea frutex, Guddtr rose, and many others,
bear on shoots of the year, and may therefore be
pruned short.

Pyracantha bears (chiefly) on two and three
years old wood ; therefore the oldest wood is to be
cut out, and young in every part retained at length.
The time of pruning should be autumn; but early
in spring will do, as the flowers may then be seen.

For the pruning forest trees, see page 124. Bar-
berries, see page 174.

SECTION XIII.

OF HOT BEDS.

J- HE dung of animals, but chiefly of horses, is put
together for fermentation, in order to form bodies of
heat for two purposes. 1 . To raise, vegetables, flow-
ers, £c. not otherwise to be produced, or, at least,
not in perfection. 2. To raise such things, as though
they come in perfection by open culture, yet may be
forwarded by artificial warmth.

According to the quantity and qualtty of the mate-
rials put together for hot beds, the heat will be pro-
portioned as to strength and duration ; and by a
judicious use in making, and the management after-
wards, many advantages may be obtained from them.
Tiie great point is, to suit the degree of heat to the
nature of the different plants to be cultivated, that

x 2

180 Ofr HOT feEDS. SECT. XT11.

they may have neither more or less than is necessary
to promote a regular vegetation, not a hasty one.

Two errors are common in the use of hot beds,
sowing or placing in the same bed things of a very
different nature, as to the climate they grow best in,
and forcing with too much heat even the tenderest.
Though it may not answer our often too hasty views,
the heat of a bed had better be slack than otherwise.
A strong hot bed, that ought (at least) to be made a
fortnight before it is used, is sometimes furnished by
impatience in a few days, and various ill conse-
quences follow its after heat, which naturally frustrate
expectation.

The place where hot beds are worked should be
open to the full sun, catching it as early as possible
in the morning, and having it as long as can be in the
evening ; and if not naturally sheltered, it should be
screened from the north and north east winds by a
boarded fence, or rather one of weeds, as from a
solid fence the wind reverberates ; but straw, or flake
hurdles, set endwise, may do. A screen of some
sort, (and a close clipt hedge is as good as any) not
only protects the inclosure from the harsher w inds,
and confines the warm air, but keeps a rather un-
sightly work from view, and straws from blowing
about, the litter of which is so disagreeable. In
lafge gardens, however, they have detached grounds
for the work of hot beds, where such litter is of no
consequence.

Working of the dung is necessary previous to the
making a hot bed ; i. e. it should be thrown together
£ii an heap, in a conical form ; and w hen it has taken
a thorough heat, and has been smoaking or sweating
for two or three days, it should be turned over, mov-
ing the outside in, or mixing the colder parts with the
hot. When it has taken heat again for two or three
days, give it a sscoiid turn as before, and having lain

SECT. XIII. OF HOT BEDS. l.fjl

the same time, it will be in proper order for making a
<?ood lasting bed with a steady heat. If in haste, it
may be made into a bed after the first heating ; but it
will be better for shifting again, or even a third time.
When dung is ready before wanted, keep turning it
over, lest it be too much spent. It will be proper to
begin to work/raft dung a week or ten days before it
is to be used ; but if the dung is not fresh, it is only
necessary to throw it together for once heating.

Dunghills, from which it is designed to collect ma-
terials for a hot bed, should be taken notice of in
time, that they are not left to work themselves weak
by long smoking, without opening and turning over.
Beds may be made of dung from a week to a month
old.

If heavy rain, cutting wind, or driving snow, should
keep the heaps from heating, and the dung is wanted,
lay some straw round it, and it will protect and fetch
up the heat. If at first putting it together there is
not a general moisture in the dung, it must be given
it, by casting water evenly over it as it is laid. This
may be done with a hand-bowl from a pail, but it
would be better to use a large watering pot. No
water must be used to dung when it is got dark ;
.this is, however, the colour that it should, begin to
Jhavje when put together in a bed, which the direc-
tions given for working it will bring it to, arid ought
not to be neglected.

The size of a hot bed, as to length and breadth, is
(of course) to be according to the frame; and the
height of it according to the season, and the degree
of heat requisite to the nature of the plant to be
cultivated. In a dry soil, a bed may be sunk in the
ground, from six inches to a foot, to make it more
convenient to get at and manage. But beds made
forward in the season should rather be on the sur-

182 OF HOT BEES, SECT. XI 11,

face, for the sake of being able to add the stronger
linings, &c.

The bed should not be of greater dimensions than
necessary to hold the frame up firmly, i. e. three or
four inches wider every way, though some approve
of making it six, which may be proper if the frame
is small, as otherwise the body of dung might not
hold heat .enough for the necessary length of time.
Asa guide for laying the dung regular, (according
to the size of the frame) drive stakes, of about the
height the bed is to be, at the four corners.

It is the practice of some gardeners, when they
mould the bed, to take the frame off, and lay it two
or three inches thick all over, and then put the frame
on again. This is done to guard against steaming,
and is proper when the frames are shallow ; in this
,case, the bed must be six inches wider every way
jthan the frame, in order to hold up the mould for the
frame to rest upon.

In case of an Insufficient quantity of good horse
clung, that of cows, oxen, or pigs, if it is strawy,
and not too wet, may be mixed with it, in the pro-
portion of one-fourth, or upon a pinch more; espe-
cially in an advanced part of the season, or to cul-
tivate things that are only forcing, and do not na-
turally require heat In the case of a deficient quan-
tity oi proper materials also, some dry old worn-out
hofSe dung may be laid at bottom, and a little of it
on the top Offal hay may be mixed as the bed is
made ; or a little of mown grass, or weeds, espe-
cially for iate made beds ; but clear straw, well
>vetted, may be put at the bottom a foot thick, and
reckoned about equal to five inches of dung. Cu-
cumbers and melons have been raised upon wetted
straw beds, mixed with sea coal ashes ; and thus the
rank steam of dung avoided, which sometimes injures

SECT. XIII.

OF HOT BEDS. 183

plants, if it does not give the fruit a less agreeable
taste than they otherwise would have. Sea coal ashes
among dung, has been recommended to continue the
heat of the bed, and to moderate it, in the propor
tion of one-fifth or sixth part; tanners bark has been
used in the same way ; and these have been some
times mixed generally, and at others in layers three
or four to a bed.

The making of a hot bed is performed thus : lay
some of the most strawy dung at bottom, and keep
that which appears least worked toward the middle.
Let all be well broke, and laid evenly without lumps ;
keeping the ends and sides upright, (or rather hang-
ing over) not suffering them to draw in, lest the bed
be made too little for the frame, or should thus catch
wet. Having laid it about half a yard high, most
gardeners trample it with the feet set close, and again
when raised a foot higher, and lastly when near fi-
nished ; but beating it down well with the back of
the fork is by some gardeners thought sufficient, ex-
cept indeed the dung be fresh and strawy, and then
trampling ought to be used. The cleaner dung is, it
must not only be more trampled, but more wetted,
and the greater quantity of it used. To make beds
of unsoiled straw, it is recommended to lay it in a
pond for two or three days, and then to throw it in a
heap to drain and heat a little first.

If any dung is to be used directly from the stable,
let it be equally mixed with the rest ; but if there is
a coldness in the other dung, it will bring the heat
forwarder, by laying a good part of the fresh in the
middle, which will soon kindle, and spread warmth.
The litter that is made use of for this purpose should
befoul; and if not, it may be made so, by mixing
cow or hog dung with it, or rather by collecting the
draining from a farmer's muck hill, and sprinkling
with it ; which helps to fermentation.

184 OF HOT BEDS. t SECT. XIIT,

The best sort of dun<^ is that of bean straw, next
wheaty rye, oats, and barlcij. When the season is
pretty much advanced, hot beds may be made of
grass mowings, (as from an orchard) and weedy,
which is a common practice in the cyder countries.
These heats, however, are often too violent, and
last not long; yet may they be lined with the same
materials if done in time, otherwise if a green hot
bed gets greatly cool it will not be recovered. A
grass bed may be used as soon as warm, but let
it not be overweighted by putting on heavy frames,
or more mould than necessary. It should rather be
worked with hand glasses, oiled paper covers, or by
hoops and mats.

Hot beds are sometimes made of the refuse bark
of a tanner's yard, and also of oak leaves ; but these
must have wa.lled pits for them, of a large size, and
are seldom used but in hot houses. A bark-bed pro-
perly made, and managed by forking up at two or
three month's end, &c. will hold a fair, moderate,
and steady heat, four, five, or six months.

The bark is to be got fresh, after it has been
thrown out of the vats a few days, and if not mode-
rately dry, kept a few days longer to drain, and if the
weather is fair, it may be opened to the sun to dry ;
for it will not ferment if it is put together wet.
When it is made into a bed it must be only beat to-
gether with the fork, and not trampled. In a fort-
night it will have come to a fine heat, for immediate
use.

The pit should be eleven or twelve feet long, five
and a half or six feet wide, and a foot, or a little more,
higher than the bark in front, and two feet higher be-
hind, to receive the mould on a body of bark, three
feet deep : But if for the cultivation of any thing in
pots, as there will need no mould, the pits need not
be so deep, the pots being plunged in the bark : or

SECT. XIII. OF HOT BEDS. 185

the pit may be made level all round, of a depth to
hold the bark and mould, on which frames of wood
may be set. Let the pit be sunk one-third, or one-
half in the ground, as the soil about it is dry or not.

To encrease the heat of a dung bed when it de-
clines, a warm lining of straw, or hay, put round it,
a foot wide, and laid high up the sides of the frames,
will recover it for a few days ; but a lining of hot
dung, one foot and a half wide at bottom, and narrower
at top, should be applied first to the back, and in
about a week after to the front, before the heat is
greatly gone off; and if very bad weather comes,
there should be a lining of straw all round this. In
cases of great declension of heat, the ends should
have hot dung applied to them, or, at least, a good
thickness of litter, or straw. Lay all linings a few
inches higher than the bed, to allow for sinking; or,
not being laid quite so high at first, add more after-
wards, when a little settled. Early made beds may
require two or three repeated linings. Should dung
of a brisk heat for a new lining be wanting, the old
lining may be worked up with what there is, and if
shook up with quite fresh (but foul) dung from the
stable, do very well.

To decrease the heat of a bed, several holes may be
made in it, by thrusting an iron bar, or a thick smooth
sharp pointed stake, up to the middle, which holes
are to be close stopt again, with dung or hay, when
the heat is sufficiently abated.

The uses to which hot-beds may be applied are
various, but chiefly for the cultivation of cucumbers
and melons, for which see the next section. At thfj
spring of the year, hot-beds are commonly made
use of for forcing crops of several vegetables, as ra-
dishes, carrots, cauliflowers, lettuces, potatoes, tur-
neps, kidney beans, purslane, tarragon, small sallad-
ingt &e. Fruits of several sorts, as cherries, straw*

OF RAISING CUCUMBERS. SECT. XIV.

berries, raspberries, &c. are sometimes brought forward
by dung heat; as also various shrubs and flowers, by
means of forcing- frames. Tender annuals, as bal-
sams, and other flowers, that necessarily require heat
to bring them up ; and the less tender, and some even
of the hardy sorts, are also cultivated on hot- beds, or
other assistance from dung, to produce an earlier
blow than could otherwise be had. Directions for
which, will be given in their proper places. See Sect.
18.

As to the forcing fruits, peas, asparagus, and the
raising of mushrooms, these things are not commonly
practised, and it can hardly be expected in such an
initiatory book as this, to find instructions for all
things, %

SECTION XIV.

OF RAISING CUCUMBERS AND MELONS.
1, OF RAISING CUCUMBERS.

See also Cucumber in the next Section.

VrARDENERS usually provide three crops of cu-
cumbers in the season, all of which will be indebted
to hot dung to produce them ; except sometimes in-
deed, the last sowing be upon cold ground ; which,
in some favourable situations, and in some seasons,
may do for picklers. We begin with the early crop,
which is generally most valued.

SECT. XIV. OF RAISING CUCUMBERS. IS?

Make a seed bed of the size of a one-light frame,
(or a two-light were better) from three to four feet
thick, and if ambitious of being forward, do it some
time between the first and fifteenth of January,
though there are gardeners who sow about Christ*
yias : But the sooner this work is begun, the more
hazard there is of failing, and the more skill and
trouble will be necessary to manage them success-
fully.

The young gardener is advised not to attempt this
business till the middle of February ; and then, if he
has good fortune, he will cut fruit about the middle
of May. When he has attained some skill in the
work, he may begin sooner ; for there is nothing that
professed gardeners are so fond of exhibiting, as
early cucumbers, which is a proof, that no little in-
genuity and attention is necessary to produce them.
All favourable circumstances coinciding, as sowing
the forwardest seed in kind, mild and sunny wea-
ther, and plenty of dung, with good frames, managed
by skill and industry, early cucumbers are sometimes
raised in about eight weeks, and later in the season
have been raised in six ; but near upon three months
must commonly be allowed.

A bed being ready, agreeable to the directions
given in the last section, which may be four feet
high in January, three and a half feet in February,
and three feet in March, or the medium height as a
general rule ; let it be covered with the frame and
lights, raising the glasses a little to let off the steam
that will come strongly from the bed.

When the h eat has been up three or four days in a
single light, or a day or two more if a two-light
frama> let it be taken off, and see that the surface of
the bed is perfectly level, but rather rising behind ;
and if you think the bed is hardly strong enough, the
opportunity is given to add a course or two more of

188 OF RAISING CUCUMBERS. SECT. XIV.

dang. Having levelled the bed neatly with the fork,
beat it smooth with a shovel or spade, and put the
frame and glass on again.

The temper of the bed is now to be attended to>
that it be not moulded till the burning heat is over;
a judgment of which may be formed, by keeping two
sharp pointed smooth sticks thrust in behind, and
occasionally drawing and feeling them, by a quick
grasp of the hand. Endeavour to hit the exact time,
not putting the mould on too soon, as it is liable to
burn, nor delaying too long, and so to lose time, and
too much of that heat, the bed was made for.

The moulding is thus: lay all over the bed about
three inches thick of rich loose (not over light) and
dry earth, and add as much in the centre of the light
as will raise a hiil eight or nine inches deep, which as
soon as warm through, is to be used, except the bed
seem too hot, ana likely to burn ; in which case, draw
the chief of the mould aside round the frame, that the
heat may have vent in the middle for a day or two.
As it is a thing essentially necessary in the cultivation
of early cucumbers, to have rich earth, properly dry,
it should be prepared, and laid by in autumn, in
some airy shed or hovel. Let it be, if possible, some
fresh under turf earth, mixed with about one fourth
part of thorough rotten horse-dung, often stirred to-
. get her to incorporate and sweeten.

The sowing may be made upon the hill of mould,
levelled down to about six inches deep; but if any
suspicion of burning (or in short at any rate), it were
belter to sow in a small pot or two, which should be
filled with the warm mould, and plunged a little way
i i, more or less according to the heat of the bed, for
kif the bed appears to be over hot, the pot may be
raised irom it ; cover the seeds half an inch, and add
a genfle pressure of the earth uppn them. In a bed
of proper temper, they will be up in three or four

SECT. XIV. OF RAISING CUCUMBERS. 1$9

days, and sooner or later, if there is too strong or too
weak a heat ; though the age of the seed will occa-
sion some difference. Very old seed (which some
gardeners are fond of, as running less to vine, and
so reckoned the more fruitful) will, sometimes come
up weak, and also rot, when the mould is damp,
and the heat not strong ; so that seed of two, three,
or at the most, four years of age, is to be preferred :
that of a year old only comes up certainly, but too
luxuriantly.

Whether the first seeds come up, or not, on the
third day, sow a few more, and so again and again ;
for the early young plants are incident to failures,
from various causes. As the seed must not be sown
in wet earth, so if it gets too dry, sprinkle the mould
to moisten it a little below the depth of the seed ;
but let it be with water previously set in the frame
(in a bottle) to warm. Be sure to give the plants
air, according to the weather, raising the lights from
one half, to a whole inch ; and now, and ever after,
while there is a strong heat in the bed, tilt a little
one corner of a light for the steam to pass off on
nights, and let a mat hang, or be nailed loosely over
the open part, to keep out the wind.

The pric/cing out the young plants is to be done
when they are three or four days old, taking them up
carefully, and the mould being warm, put three in a
small pot, as the common practice is ; but no more
than two, or only one in a small pot, is a good me-
thod. If a single plant is put in a pot, it certainly
may be expected to grow stronger, and be continued
longer therein, and "three of these may be planted
close together in the fruiting bed. If only one plant
is put in, set it upright in the middle of the pot
nearly up to the seed leaves. If more are put in,
take the mould out of the pot in a bason-like form,
arj inch or more deep, as the shanks are, laying the

l£)0 OF RAISING- CUCUMBERS. SECT.

roots smooth towards the centre, and the leaves to-
wards the edge of the pot ; cover up to the top, and
give the earth a gentle pressure : the root ends may
be dipt, if long.

If the mould is very dry, and the bed hot, a little
water may be immediately given to the roots; but if
otherwise, the next day will be best.

Give very little .air the first day, but afterwards
more, as the sun shines or not, or the day is mild or
sharp, still or windy. As the plants get older and
hardier, air may be given up to two inches, when
there is a good heat, and extraordinary fine weather,
to three or four inches of tilt; For this purpose,
wedges of wood, about four inches thick at the wide
end, are proper. If suspicious of the air coming in
too suddenly, tack a bit of cloth or mat before the
place. Air is to be given in different degrees, regu-
larly as the weather alters in the course of the day ;
— a little air in the morning, more as the day ad-
vances, and less again as it declines.

Cucumbers will not do well, if the air in the bed is
long confined, or stagnant : Sun is necessary as well
as air, but as that we cannot furnish, every advantage
that is in our power we should not fail to make use
of with care. The plants are to be nursed, and pre-
served moderately warm, by keeping the pots plunged
less or more in the bed, placing them towards the
outsides of the frame when there is a great heat, and
more in' the middle when it is moderate.

Keep some mould round the inside of the frame,
ready to earth up the pots to the rim, as the heat dc*
dines. There should not be less than two, or more
than three inches depth of mould, in the intermediate
spaces of the frame : for when the bed is moulded too
thick, it keeps down the heat too much,, and occasions
turning. Young plants should be guarded from much

SECT. XIV. OF RAISING CUCUMBERS.

sun, if the season is advanced, and especially whea
the bed is hot : Give air in these cases freely.

Attend to the weather, and if rain, snow, or wind,
is either of them likely to chill the bed much, provide
against it in time, by laying straw round ; and if the
heat naturally declines much, line, &c. as directed^
page 184, in order to recover and keep it up, for the
plants will soon be spoiled, or lost, if the bed gets
cold. They are to grow in the pots till their first
rough leaves are two or three inches broad. When
there is only one in a pot, a plant (upon a pinch) may
grow in it till it blossoms.

Use water (soft) but moderately at first, till the
roots get spread about the pot, and then wet the
shanks of the plants as little as can be helped, if the
season is early, or there is little sun. When the
roots are got to the bottom of the pot, take care to
water to the bottom ; but over-much watering of
young plants makes them sickly. Once a week, at
an early season, will be sufficient, except the heat is
very strong in the bed, and the weather very sunny :
the water must be in a small degree warm, and given
in the morning towards the middle of the day. Shut
them close for half an hour.

If the seed bed is not likely to hold the plants so
long as directed, (or nearly) in a free growing state,
an intermediate bed should be made in time to receive
them ; for it is not proper to plant them out into the
fruit-bed too soon, lest there be a failure in keeping
up its heat to set the fruit, and bring it on. Thii
intermediate bed " should be made of proportiQnate
strength, for the time it is wanted, and may do at
two and a half, or three feet thick ; nor need there
be any great objection to an intermediate bed, as it
tends to insure success, and brings the plants on faster,
and saves trouble in keeping up the heat ot tiie seed
bed. '

OF RAISING CUCUMBERS. SECT. XIV.

Burning is a thing to be suspected when a bed is
very hot, and in proportion as the mould is damp ;
and should therefore be seen to, by drawing away
some mould from the bottom near the middle ; and
if it appears discoloured, of a greyish hue, and caked,
let what is so be taken out from all parts of the bed
as soon as possible ; but take care that in doing it,
too much cold air do not get in, and damp the bed,
or injure the plants. Do this work at the best time
of the day, while the sun shines, if it may be, and
rather at twice, allowing an hour between. Fill up
with fresh and dry mould, and keep the glasses close,
till the earth is got thorough warm again. Burning,
however, is not of so much consequence now, as when
the plants are put out to fruit, for the pots may be
drawn up from the evil ; but burnt mould contami-
nates the air, as well as injures the roots that it
reaches to. See Burning again presently.

Steaming must be guarded against, and the rank
effluvia which rises in the bed at first, and whilst the
dung is quite hot, must have vent night and day, by
raising the lights. A little rise will do on nights;
and if a mat hangs before the aperture, or is nailed
down loosely over it, the too sudden entrance of cold
air will be prevented. But when the strong heat of
the bed is certainly over, shut close on nights, and
give but little air in unfavourable days. Rank steam
is sometimes drawn into a frame from the outside of
the bed, occasioned by the mats hanging over it;
therefore, in covering, it is necessary to keep up the
ends of the mats, so that the glass and frame only be
covered. Danger of steaming arises also from the
application of fresh linings, ths smoke of which,
wind may drive into the frames; so that the lining
should either be covered with two or three inches of
mould, or, which is better, a good thickness of fine
dry hay. Sometimes steam will insinuate itself

SECT. XIV, OF RAISING CUCUMBERS.

round the frame within, through the bed settling un-
equally, so that the mould draws from the frame :
Prevent this by filling up the apertures.

Cowering up at night has been just directed to be
only over the glasses, for a reason given. Put the
cover on a little before sun set, and take off a little
after sun rise, except very bad weather dictate other-
wise ; yet remember, that light is a most necessary
article in the welfare of plants, and guard against
permitting cover longer than compelled to it. While
the bed is in a good heat, one mat is sufficient, but
yet if the weather is sharp, more should be used ;
for though not necessary for the warmth, it will be
useful to keep the steam o; the bed from being so
suddenly condensed as to drop on the plants, which
•would injure them. As the bed declines in heat,
and the weather is cold, a thicker covering must be
put on ; and a very warm covering is made thus : — •
lay on a mat, and over it a coat of straw, or rather
hay, and then a mat on the top, which tack do\vn
round the frame. It will help to warmth, to push
into the dung some little sticks round the frame on
the outside, and fill up the space with hay. Cover-
ing round the bed with stra\v, and Lining have been
spoken to, and let the applications be made in,
time.

The seed bed, by good management, may be kept
with a good growing heat for six weeks, when the
plants being about five weeks old, will be ready for
putting into a new bed to bear fruit.

Stopping the plants is to be performed about a
week before they leave the seed bed ; i. e. as soon,
ae the second rough leaf is expanded, and shews in
its bosom the little bud, or eye, that produces a run-
ner. This is to be nicely cut off with a pen-knife,
or small sharp pointed scissars, or picked out with a
peedle, though, if it gets forward, it may be pinched

Or RAISING CUCUMBERS. SECT. XIV.

off. Soon after this operation, the plant thickens,
and will push for runners again, which the stopping
is designed to dispose them to ; and the effect also is
an earlier and more plentiful bearing. The practice
of stopping is again to be performed upon the first
runners when they have three joints without shewing
fruit.

The fruit bed comes now, and it should be made
of good materials, duly prepared, and well put toge-
ther, towards four feet thick. It ought not to be of
a size less than for a two-light, but better for a three-

• light frame ; as the heat is more certainly to be kept
up a proper length of time, in a full sized frame,
without which all the previous labour is lost. Prepa-
rations must be made for this bed at least a fortnight
before it is wanted, in the way directed in the last
section.

Before earthing, take care that the burning heat is
over, and that the mould to be used be properly dry.
Lay it all over the bed riot more than three inches
thick, (for reasons given, page 191) making hills
where the plants are to be set about twelve or four-
teen inches depth. A two-light bed (of proper ma-
terials) will not be ready for moulding in less than a
week or ten days from making ; nor a three-light in
less than ten days or a fortnight. But if it should be
desired to plant out quick, on account of the-' seed
bed having got cold, a security from burning the
plants is found in forming a hole in the bed, where
the plants are to be, two inches deep, and about a
foot, or fifteen inches over, and filling up with fresh
'cow-dung ; through this the heat will not burn, and
if it catches the other parts of the bed, the disease
may be easily remedied, in the way before-mentioned,

• without disturbing the plants. Some gardeners place
turf under the plants, with the grass downwards,

*to prevent excess of heat; and it helps to keep the

9

SECT. XIV. OP UAISrtfG CUCUMBERS. 195

mould, in other pafts, from burning, to stir it about
in time. A preventatwe used by some, is to put on
a layer of five or six inches of old dung, when the
bed is made. It should seem, that a layer of about
three inches of old bark might prevent burning. See
Burning, pages 191, li)2.

Planting is to take place as soon as the heaps of
mould are warm. Spread the earth on the top a
little, and having the hills a full ten inches depth-,
make a hole in the middle six inches deep, to receive
the pot of plants ; which pot will be from four and
a half to five inches deep, and consequently the
plants sunk in this hole a full inch more in mould
than they were in the pot; and they will have four
inches depth of mould at the bottom, which there
should be below the roots. Draw the mould up to
the plants, and press it gently between, and to them,
all round the hillock. It is spoken here of a pot of
plants with three, but if only one in a pot, the whole
hill must be thrown down to four inches depth, and
the plants, with all the mould, set one close by the
side of the other, and then filled up and round with
the earth of the bed.

To shift plants out of the pots with the ball of
earth entire about them, put the fingers between the
plants, and turning the pot up, give it a gentle tap on
the knee, or edge of the frame, and the whole will
come out? a little pressure at the same time through
the hole at bottom, with a finger of the other hand,
will assist : turn the plants up carefully, and place
them in so. To secure their coming out whole,
water the pots to the bottom the day before ; and if
not too wet, they will slip out. If the plants hold
tight to the pots, when turned up, along thin narrow
bladed knife will be proper to loosen the sides a little.
If the mould should fall from the plants, carefully
spread the roots in planting, and they will be *ure to

Qg

196 OF RAISING CUCUMBERS. SECT. XIV.

grow, only their having no mould to them will occa-
sion a little loss of time till they have struck root
again. Thus having settled the plants, shut the, lights
close till all is thorough warm, and then give a little
air ; if the mould put round the roots be dry, give a
little water.

Management as to air, covering, watering, lining,
and guarding against burning, steaming, &c. is now
to occupy the constant attention of the gardener: On
these heads, what has been before said may serve for
instruction now ; only as the season advances, and
the plants get strong, the more air and watering may
be ventured on, and if the heat of the bed is good,
less covering will do. As the season advances, water
earlier in the morning, or later in the afternoon, so
as not to have a full sun come directly upon the
leaves while wet; for drops of water act as convex
glasses, to draw the rays of the sun to a focus, and
thus scorches. As the bed gets cool by any means,
use zcater the more sparingly; and in this case, espe-
cially, avoid wetting the shanks of the plants much.
It will be known when water must be given, by the
larger leaves flagging, without any violent sun to oc-
casion an extraordinary perepiration. Bottles of
water may be kept in the frame, which is preferable
to that warmed at a fire; yet the latter must be used
when there is not enough of the former, to water so
widely and deeply as necessary. When the frame
gets full of vine, it gets full of 'root; and as by this
time the days get long, aqd may be siyiny, a good
portion of water for the whole may be wanted
twice (or perhaps thrice) a week, from a watering
pot.

Air should be given (as before directed) in fine
w-eather to a tilt of three inches, or more. While
there is a brisk heat in the bed, give a little air on
nights. If the bed gets cold, it may be helped, by

SECT. 5UV. OF RAISING CUCUMBERS. 137

'covering up earlier and warmer, and uncovering
later; though the plants should not be deprived
of more light than what must be, through bad wea-
ther.

In case of burning being discovered, take the
burnt mould from under the plants carefully, but
quickly, as far in as can be, without throwing them
down : remember to be cautious of steaming, and
think of lining (191) in time, that the plants be not
stunted by cold, for when they are materially checked,
they hardly ever recover it. Sometimes the applica-
tion of linings will so increase the heat as to occasion
burning ; let this be seen to, and (at least) remove
a part, and remake them when the violent heat is
abated.

Earth up the shanks with dry mould, (kept in the
frame on purpose) as the plants increase; and let
warm mould be added to the sides of the heaps, as
soon as ever the roots begin to appear through, or trie
runners need support; proceeding thus, from time
to time, till the bed is rilled up level all over. For
this end, keep bringing in a little cold mould fre-
quently, laying it round the sides of the frame.
When the bed is filled finally with mould, it is a good
way to press it tightish round the frame, about a
hand's breadth, to keep the roots longer from the
outside*

Some gardeners mould the bed all over, as soon
as they are satisfied there can be no more burning ;
but it is best to do it at several times, and not
sooner than is necessary to cover the roots, and sup-
port the runners ; because, where the mould lies
thin, the heat comes up better to warm the air in the
frame, for the leaves will want warmth as well as
the roots.

Train the runners close down regularly with neat
pegs, as they proceed in growth, and prune the

198 OF RAISING CUCUMBERS. SIJCT. XIV,

tendrils off as they appear, but take care not to
break any of the leaves. When the days get long,
and prove very sunny, the shade of a single rtiat, for
two or three hours in the middle of the day, will be
proper, as suppose from eleven or twelve to two or
three*

Thus very particular directions have been given,
but still much will depend upon circumstances, and
discretion must direct. Let it be remembered, no
neglect will be borne with. If any imprudent person
should lift the lights high, to pry into the bed in
improper weather, perhaps an early tender crop
might at once receive their death blow, though ex-
posed but a very short time. Success in raising cu-
cumbers and melons chiefly depends upon keeping
the bed in due temper; the plants being neither burned
nor chilled.

Setting the fruit is the practice of most good gar-
deners, as generally insuring the embryos from going
off, as they are apt to do at an early season ; when
not much wind can be suffered to enter the bed, and
no bees or insects are about, to convey the farina
from the male flowers to the female. The male
flowers have been ignorantly called false blossoms,
and so have been regularly pulled off (as said) to
strengthen the plants, but they are essential to im-
pregnate the female flowers ; i. e. those that shew {he
young fruit at their base; This impregnation, called
setting the fruit, is artificially done thus : —

As soon as any female flowers are fully open, gather
a newly opened male flower, and stripping the leaf
gently off from the middle, take nicely hold of the
bottom, and twirling the top of the male (reversed)
over the center of the female flower, the fine ferti-
lizing dust from the male part will fall off, and ad-
here to the female part, and fecundate it, causing the
fruit to keep its colour, swell, and proceed fast to*

S]£Cr. XIV. OF RAISING CUCUMBERS.

wards perfection. Thb business of setting the fruit
may be practised through the months of February,
March, and April, but afterwards it will not be ne-
cessary ; for the admission of so much air as may
afterwards be given, will disperse the farina effectu-
ally ; but if the weather still is bad, or remarkably
calm, setting may be continued a little longer. If
short of male flowers, one of them may serve to im-
pregnate two females. Pull off all the male flowers as
fast as they die upon the vines. Lay a bit of tile, or
some such thing, under forward fruit.

Something of priming may perhaps be necessary,
for plants will not bear well, either in quantity, or
quality, if the frames are crowded. The rule (of
course) is, to cut out those runners that can be best
spared, as being weak, most in the way, or having
the smallest fruit on them. But as the fulness is ge»
nerally owing to the putting in the bed too many
plants, the better method is to cut down to the root
a whole plant, and that in time; i. e. on the prospect-
of being too full of vine : this may seern a great sa-
crifice, but it will prove a profitable one. Let the
discharged plant lay a day to wither, that it hang
not hard to the others, and break their leaves, iu
drawing it out while fresh. About Midsummer, the
frame may be raised, to permit the runners to strike
out, and in a fortnight after taken entirely off; though
once in a frame, and always in, is better, if conve-
nient.

A SECOND CROP of cucumbers may be sown at any
time between the middle and end of March, if they
are to be brought up in frames; but if under hand-:
glasses, or paper covers, then any time from the be-
ginning of April to the middle, is soon enough, at
least in 'Northamptonshire. A hot bsd for sowing

200 OF RAISING CUCUMBERS. SECT.

the seed at this time, need only be from two and a
half to three feet thick, and a one-light frame. On
this bed also may be sown, in pots, or otherwise,
tender annuals ; and it is a very good time for most
of them. Or the seed for plants to ridge out under
hand-glasses, may be sown in pots, and placed in
other hot beds, to bring them forward till they have
been stopped.

What has been said about makiag hot beds, and
sowing, and managing cucumbers, will direct now ;
only at this season, mowings of grass may be put
round a bed to increase the heat, and will be found
^seful to lay on the top of dung linings when sunk.

A seed bed, at this time, should have a growing
heat for one month, when the plants will be fit (the
latter end of April, or beginning of May) to put
either into another two feet and a half hot bed with
a frame, or only under hand-glasses, £c. which should
be rather large, because plants running from under
them much before Midsummer will hardly endure the
weather. Let them be covered up on nights with a
single mat; and when they must run from under the
glasses, sticks, or hoops, may be fixt to keep the mats
off from pressing upon them: fasten the covering
down at the corners with pegged sticks, to keep them
from blowing away. Let the ground about the bed
b3 stirred, and also raised, to train the plants level,
and to give the roots full room to extend and strike
freely.

For ridging cucumbers, that are to have only hand-
glasses, or some such cover, observe (as advised) not
to sow too forward, for better be rather late, than
have the plants cut off, or much injured, just as they
are going to bear. The hot bed, or ridge, made in
May, for hand-glasses, should be sunk in a dry soil,
two spades deep; and two feet and a half thick of
good dung is now enough. The mould that is thrown

SECT. XIV. OF RAISING CUCUMBERS. 201

out (if it is good) may be used to cover the bed;
and if but indifferent, may be laid round it, or on it,
towards the outsides. Lay on it at first only three
inches of mould, except where the plants are to be,
at which place lay a depth of about nine inches,
rather more than less. It is not necessary that the
earth should be very dry, as directed for early cu-
cumbers, but let it be warm first to plant in. If it
be Mid- May before the plants are put out, holes of
two or three barrows full of dung will be sufficient
to bring them on through May, and then the season
(if it is not bad) will be warm enough to keep them
pushing forwards. There should be near four feet
distance between each set of plants. Shade them
for a few days at first putting out, and cover on nights
till Mid-June.

Cucumbers not sown till the beginning of April,
may be brought to bear fruit on one good bed, if
under a large frame ; and such a bed would, at the
same time, serve very well to sow, or to prick out,
tender annuals. See section 1 8, On flowers.

A THIRD CROP of cucuinbers may be sown any
time, from the middle to the end of May, (or even a
little later) either in a pot or not, upon some hot bed
in use, to grow for a week or ten days ; or sow upon
a little heat of two or three barrows full of warm
dung, trod close, and previously thrown together for
the purpose : or if fresh and moist from the stable, it
will, though at present cold, heat itself. Cover the
dung with six inches of mould, and sow half inch
deep, and half an inch asunder, under a hand-glass ;
and when the plants are completely up, thin them to
an inch asunder, where let them grow, earthing them
up as they get tall, till they show rough leaf. Then
prepare more such little bodies of heat to plant them

OF RAISING CUCUMBERS. SECT.

out upon, three or four in a patch, which cover with
a hand-glass, or otherwise, and shade also for a day
or two, if sunny. If you can take three or four
plants up together by a scoop trowel, with earth to
the roots, the better ; and if not, plant them pretty
near together, laying them aslant, so that the shanks
be covered two or three inches. Keep these plan! a
earthed up, and as much under their covers as may
be, till towards Midsummer, covering the parts that
run out on nights till this time. The third crop is
that generally sown for picklers. Guard against tha
Spot by a mat- cover in September.

Sometimes, at this season, cucumbers are sown
for picklers in cold ground, especially about London,
or south or zcest of it ; but soil, situation, and season,
make a great difference in the cultivation of all, and
particularly of delicate plants. If any seed be sown*
on cold ground, let it be in dry weather; give them
a favourable situation, and sow in patches eight or
nine seeds in a hole, formed like a shallow basin, co-
vering half an inch deep; and if covered with hand
glasses, to bring them up a little while, it were much
better. Thin them when getting into rough leaf, to
four or five of the best plants ; spread them a little,,
and earth up to the seed leaves, giving a little water;
and if, afterwards, the number of plants is reduced
to three, it would be better than more. Give plenty
of air by day, and a little on nights. liaise earth
above the shanks as they grow, and let it lie about
them, while the plants are small, in the form of a
shallow basin.

As to saving the seed of cucumbers, as it is of
some consequence to be ascertained of a good kind*
when the early nature and approved quality of any
sort is known, it ought to be an object to save it well;
which will be best done from plants of the second
, that have been ridged 6ittA i. e. brought up

SECT. XIT. OF RAISING MELONS. 203

under hand glasses. From this crop that plant
which shews fruit first (under the same culture;
should be reserved for seed, judging that its early
disposition may be continued, and because the first
fruit of any kind (if uninjured) always produces the
best seed.

Fix upon handsome fruit, and prefer that which is
placed lowest, or grows nearest the root. Leave no
more than one fruit for seed upon a plant, and let it
remain on the vines through August, or as much
longer as the weather will permit, to be very ripe :
when cut it off; and place seed cucumbers agaiusj a
south wall, till they appear decaying.

When got rotten ripe, scoop out the pulp and seed
into some vessel, and stir it well up, which repeat
for several days; then let it be washed in two or three
waters, which will separate the pulp, and leave the
seed clean : spread it thin for two or three days, that
it may dry thoroughly, and putting it. up in paper
for use, keep it in a place free from damp. Let it
be every now and then examined and rubbed in a dry
cloth, and it may be kept so for several years, and
reckoned the better.

OF RAISING MELONS.

See Melon in the next Section.

MELONS are raised much in the same way as
cucumbers. They should not, however, be thought
of so early, and from the middle of February to the
middle of : March will (for most persons) be soon
enough to sow them. The place where they are cul-
tivated should be well sheltered, so that the winds
may blow over the frames, as mentioned in the di-
rections about hot-beds. They require a stronger

£04? Or RAISING MELONS. 5ECT. XIV.

soil to grow in than cucumbers, and more heat, both
at bottom and top, and need less water : they take
up more room, so that one plant, or at most two,
will be enow under one full sized light. Cucumbers
may be raised on a seed bed till fit to plant out on
thejfr^Y bed ; but melons will (generally at least)
require an intermediate bed. During the whole time
of the cultivation of melons, (till high summer) they
must have a lively bottom heat, in order to bring
them forward, and succeed well; and, if melons are
late, as soon as September enters, a strong lining of
hot dung may be put to the bed, to afford some de-
gree of heat to the outer roots, as an equivalent to
the failure of the season. Melons never do well in
a shady summer. As cucumbers are about three
months coming in, so melons are about four. They
set their fruit in about two months, and are about
the same time in ripening, though forty days will
sometimes effect it.

The seed of melons (procured from well ripened
and fine flavoured fruit) should be about four years
old, though some prefer it much older, as judging it
so much the less likely to run to vine : If it is too
old, however, it comes up weak, and is apt to rot,
when the mould is not sufficiently dry, and the seed
bed not very warm. If new seed only can be had,
it should be carried a week or two in the breeched
pocket, to dry away some of the more watery parts:
The earlier the seed is sown, the older it should be.
IVlelon seed may be sown in a cucumber bed, that is
in a brisk heat, in pots plunged towards the middle ;
but a bed should be ready to move the young plants
into before the cucumber bed gets too cool. Sow
only three or four seeds in each pot, and cover a lit-
tle more than half an inch : The earth in which the
Seed is sown, should not be so strong as that in which
the plants are to grow for fruit. When the seedlings

SECT. XIV. OF RAISING MELONS. 205

are three or four days old, take them up carefully,
so as not to break any of the roots, and either plant
one in a small pot, or two in a little bigger ; but de-
pend on no plants which do not appear healthy and
strong. Sow a few seeds every four or five days, lest
accidents happen to destroy the first plants.

As melons require skill, and occasion trouble to
raise them, the greatest possible care should be taken
that the seed is of a good kind. Melons should
never grow near cucumbers, especially if for seed, as
the farina of the cucumber may impregnate the
blossom of the melon, and give it a watery flavour,
or quite alter the nature of it : Do not sow foreign
seed, except for experiment.

Though melons may be sown in a cucumber frame,
when in a good heat, yet rather make a seed bed, of
about three feet thick ; and having put on the frame
and light, tilt the glass a little, and when the great
heat is abated, put on some dry, rich, and fine, but
not very light earth, to the thickness of four or five
inches all over; and the next day, if the mould is
not too hot, sow the seed, some in the beds, and some
in pots, placed just in the middle, which may be
drawn up out of the way of any burning heat.

When the plants appear, give them air, and be-
ware of rancid steam from the glasses dropping oa
them : They may be wiped with a woollen cloth, or
turned to dry in fine weather. Consider what was
said about cucumbers, concerning too much heat, too
little, &c. After the melons have been up two or
three days, (as was said before) let them be potted
and plunged to the rims, towards the middle of the
bed ; and the next day, a little water (warmed ia
the bed) may be given the roots ; or a little may be
given at the same time, if the mould is found quite
dry.

As soon as the plants are pot ted, think of making

206 OF RAISING SlElQNS: SECT.

a second bed, to be ready in a week, ten days, or a
fortnight, (as circumstances dictate) that so the
young plants may receive no check through a decline
of heat in the bed where they are. This bed should
be stronger than the seed-bed, and rather for a two-
light frame ; and being moulded as soon as it can be,
not to burn, set the pots in, about an inch deep, and
in a day or two draw a little mould up round them,
and so on again. But if the first bed is warm enough
to hold the plants longer, the heat of this second bed
(if violent) may be suffered to evaporate a little
more. Here they are to grow till in the second rough
leaf, when the plants should be stopped, as directed
for cucumbers.

The third, or fruiting bed, is to be (observed)
ready by a few days after the time of this stopping
' the plants. It should be a strong bed, of four feet
thick, and for a three-light frame, and made the
•higher, the more strawy the dung is. As soon as
the burning heat is sufficiently abated, let the bed be
covered all over with good dry melon mould (the
best is a rich moderately strong loam) three or four
inches, and heaps made under each Mght of about
fourteen inches depth. Melons do not fruit well in
a light mould, but yet it should not be a heavy one.
If the mould is too light, let it be pressed a little to-
gether to give it consistence.

To a fresh maiden soil, or good earth from the
kitchen garden, that is known to be in heart, (by
the strength of the plants it has produced) add about
one fourth, or one third, of well consumed dung, and
it makes a good compost, but it must be completely
incorporated by frequent turning and exposing to
sun and air, and kept by some means dry, as under
"a shed, &c. as directed for cucumbers. Much de-
pends on the melons growing in a good soil, and
rather a strong one.

SECT. xiv. OF RAISING MELONS* 207

The planting of melons takes place as soon as the
hills of mould are warm through ; only if a violent
heat is in the bed a day or two's delay does not sig-
nify, if the plants are doing well where they are ;
yet the roots must not be cramped longer in the pots
than necessary- Melons require a greater depth of
mould to grow in than cucumbers, and the bottom
of the roots, at planting, should not be nearer than
five or six inches from the dung. Shade them from
much sun, till they have taken root

If the lights are small, one plant under each is
sufficient, and if large, let there be only two ; for
melons require much room. It is a great error in
the cultivation of melons not to allow it them. Earth
the plants up with dry mould about the shanks as
they proceed in growth, and bend them gently down
with pegs, to give them a regular and snug direction
all over the bed. When fruit is set, there must be
only one of the large, and two of the small sorts,
(fair and promising) left on each principal runner,
and this runner should be pinched off at the second,
or rather the third joint above it, which is called
stopping them.

Pruning is necessary, in order to strengthen the
bearers, and keep the frame from getting too full of
vine, £ e. let all very strong, and all weak shoots be
taken out, as also the tendrils ; but take care that too
many male blossoms are not thus cut off, for the weak
shoots (if not abundant) do no great harm : As ia
other plants, so in melons, it is the middling shoots
that bear fruit the best, and are to be preserved.

Train the branches all regular (in time) with neat
pegs, for it hurts melon plants to lie rude, and to
have their leaves disturbed or damaged, to put them
in order. A piece of tile, or a small earthen plate,
under each fruit, is proper, to keep it from the damp
toould, and to assist its ripening by reflected heat.

20$ OF RAISING MELONS. SECT. XIT.

Three (at the most four) melons are as many as
should be left to grow upon one plant ; and those
are best which are situated nearest the stem, as re-
mote ones are not so well nourished. Do not let a
great deal of vine grow below them, lest they be too
much robbed, and let them be stopped as before di-
rected, for nature pushes towards the extremity of
the shoot, and passing by the fruit below, forms more
above, sometimes to the total loss of the first set
fruit.

Keep mould round the sides of the frame, to earth
up the plants to the very leaves, and round the hills,
(a little at a time) as the plants increase, and do
not earth all over the bed before it is necessary ; for
full earthing at too soon is apt to occasion burning,
and afterwards to damp the heat of the bed too
much, diminishing also the warmth of the atmos-
pheric air about the plants. When the bed is earthed
all over, press the mould all round the sides of the
frame, about six or eight inches wide, to make it
firm, that the roots may not get too soon to the wood,
and mat too much against it, which, occasions sick-
liness.

Do not think of cultivating early melons, without
plenty of dung both for beds and linings. The par-
ticulars of management, concerning covering, shad-
ing, air, lining*, stopping the young plants, setting the
fruit, &c. and to guard against burning and steam-
ing, may be seen in the directions already given for
cucumbers ; only less air, and much less watering,
will do for melons. Keep them close shut down on
nights, when the heat of the bed is become mode-
rate, and also cover well. As melons are to be kept
rather Wry, they should be shaded a little in very
sunny weather by a single mat, for two or three
hours in the middle of the day ; i. e. when the sea*
son is forward, especially, if the bed itself be in

SECT. XIV. OF RAISING MELONS. 209

an over hot state, which the sun would greatly
increase.

Melons may be watered moderately once a weekj
in fair weather, or twice if sultry, especially if the
mould is light. Early in the season, water a little
before noon, and in high summer a little before
evening. When the fruit is setting, and when get-
ting towards ripening, very little water must be given :
be sure to water the extremities of the roots, but
avoid the shanks of plants while they are young. A
little sprinkling with a small pot all over the leaves,
when the plants get big, (but let not a hot sun shine
upon them at the time) will greatly refresh them,
when it is not thought proper to water the roots tho-
roughly, on account of the bed being cool. Because
much wet is certainly injurious, some gardeners keep
their melons exceeding dry ; but their leaves should
not shew too much sign of drought, lest the fruit
shrivel for want of moisture. Take care that the
heat is kept up at the setting of the fruit, or it uill
become yellow, and fall off. Preserve a good bot-
tom heat till about Mid- June.

Melons should not be turned so much about, as is
the practice of some gardeners, in order to ripen the
fruit all over ; for it hurts the footstalk, distorting
its vessels that feed the melon, and so preventing a
proper digestion of the juices, and some increase of
size.

They&nwwr of a melon being preferable to the size,
is the reason why water is to be withheld (as much
as can be) when they are ripening : with it they will
become bigger, and so appear finer; but what is
quantity without quality?

The jQu&gfruit need not be fully exposed to the
sun ; it had better be a little covered with leaves, for
much hot sun hardens the skin, and prevents its pro-

P

210 OF RAISING MEtONS. $£CT. XIV.

per swell. When a melon has nearly attained its size,
then, however, a full sun is necessary to ripen it.
. As to cutting the fruit, if it is to be some days
before a melon is to be eat, (as when carried to &
distance) it -should not be quite ripe. Its ripeness is
known by the high colour, strong odour, and the
cracking of the footstalk; and if they give not a
full and pleasant scent, they will not prove good.-
"Always cut. melons in the morning, and if fully ripe,
they should not be kept more than two or three days.
If a melon is cut before it is ripe, ('tis said) it may
be ripened, by wrapping it close up in cloth, and
placing it in a heap of warm horse dung for 'twenty-
lour hours. But the better way would probably be,
to treat them as unripe medlars, which article
in Sect. 17.

A SECOND CROP of melons is to be had, by sow-
ing (in any other hot-bed, or -one made on purpose)
from Mid-March to the beginning of April, accord-
ing to situation, as in a favourable one the sowing
may be ventured on the later. These must be
brought up as before, till stopped, and then ridged
out; i. e. when about a month or five weeks old.
The method of which ridging is, to make a trench in
the ground four feet wide, and deep according to the
soil : If the ground is dry, it may be from a foot to
two feet deep, or otherwise but a few inches. Lay
in hot dung full two feet and a half thick, being well
shook and beat together with the fork. This trench
must be of length according to the number of plants
designed to be put out. For each hole (which should
be full four feet asunder) put on good melon earth,
laid up in a round hill, to fifteen or eighteen inches
high; and then lay the earth, thrown out of the

SECT. XIV, OF KAISING MELOXS. 211

trench, to the sides and top of the bed, about three
or four inches thick, breaking it fine, and cover all
over with mats to draw up the heat : But never ex-
pect ridged out melons (particularly) to do well in a
light soil. When the earth is warm, put in the plants^
two in a hole (or only one) giving a little warm wa-
ter, and cover with large hand or bell glasses, or
oiled paper lights, and proceed to manage according
to that discretion which the directions already given
about melons and cucumbers have inculcated.

As the bed sinks, and the roots spread, take care
to add a good thickness of mould around the hill,
for the plants to strike into, and to keep them up :
This may be put in a week or ten days, and it will
keep out cold air and wet from the dung : but it is
best not done at first. When the plants spread to
the extent of the bed, the ground about it should be
dug over, and rotten dung buried to raise it to the
level of the bed ; but, perhaps, this work has been
superseded by the necessity of a lining to throw in
heat.

If the plants are forward enough to ridge out in
April, or beginning of May, it may be proper to
make these beds on the level surface, or nearly so,
for the sake of lining ; but if la^er, they may be sunk
as directed above, or deeper still, in a dry soil. Re-
member, it will be necessary to line, if there appears
any likelihood of a want of heat, before the fruit is
set, and got a little forward ; and be sure to do it
in time.

If two ridges of melon plants, let there be four
feet (or more) of alley between them, and then a
lining may be applied of that width to heat both
beds ; and this middle heat may be made use of to
raise plants for the third crop of cucumbers, or ten-
der annual flowers, purslane, &c. Give ridged out
plants air on the south side. They will need more

P 2

212 OF RAISING MELONS. SECT.

water when in the ridges than in frames, and give it
\vide, but little about the stem, or hardly there at all ;
nor let it be applied cold, though a small degree of
warmth from the sun, or otherwise will do. This
crop need never be shaded but when the leaves hang.
When the plants cannot be contained under the
glasses, let them be carefully trained out, and covered
with mats all over on nights, and on days, in bad
weather, till July ; guard against much rain.

With large oiled paper frames this work of the
second crop of melons may be very well managed.
The plants should be kept under hand glasses till too
big for them, and then the paper lights may be put
on, which containing the runners till high summer,
they will be safe. Yet these covers, being set upon
bricks, may be kept always on ; but let the fruit,
that happens to be without side, be covered with a
small hand glass, which will help to ripen it. Let
the lights be protected from injury in heavy rains, by
laying some cloth, or mat, over ; and towards the
close of summer, guard the plants well against much
cold on nights.

A THIRD CROP of melons may be sown (in fa-
vourable situations) towards the end of April, or
beginning of May, if the former crop was sown about
Mid-Marchy and this is to be proceeded with in the
same manner as the second. When September comes,
(as was observed) late melons must be preserved, as
much as possible, from cold and wet, that they may
ripen. To this end, glazedframes may be used over
all, or at least hand glasses put over each fruit, cover-
ing warmly up with mats on nights. Those melons
that do not ripen may be used for mangoes, and make
good ones.

SECT. XIV. OF ESCULENTS. £1S

SECTION XV.

OF ESCULENTS.

-LHE USEFULNESS of esculent plants, as serving
for the food, health, and pleasure of man, is pretty
generally acknowledged ; and that they may not fail
to answer these ends in the best way, let them have
every attention; and that, not only in their cultivation,
but in their preparation for the table : Let there be
no slight put upon the bounty of PROVIDENCE in or-
daining them to our use, by an unnecessary prefer-
ence to other foods. " There was a time, (says an
old physician) when bread and herbs (with a little
fruit) were the only dainties wherewith the tables of
the greatest voluptuaries were spread."

u Vegetables and fruits were our innocent, primi-
tive, and natural food ; but men's depraved appetites
have substituted the shambles ; yet, after all, the in-
ventions of the most luxurious and voluptuous epi-
cure, the most Casarian tables would want of their
magnificence, noble gust, and grateful relish, with-
out fruit and the productions of the garden, which
gives the true condiment, and most agreeable closure
to all the rest."

" Their use is, all our life long, of that universal
importance and concern, that we can neither live nor
subsist in any plenty, with decency or convenience,
or be said to live at all without them : whatsoever
contributes to delight or refresh us, are supplied and
brought forth out of this plentiful and delightful
store of the garden" — Reflect on this !

It should be a rule to gather vegetables of all
kinds (designed for the table) in the morning, before

OF ESCULENTS. SECT. XV.

much sun has shined on them, and lay them by in
a cool place till wanted, being then well picked and
clean.

ALEXANDER is a culinary plant, formerly much
used, but has given way to celery'; like which it i$
blanched (which do a foot high) for use in soups and
sallads ; the seecls are best sown in drills two feet
asunder, and thinned to six or eight inches distance,
though they may be* sown at broad cast and trans-
planted. Spring sown plants come in for autumn,
and autumn ones for the use of spring.

ARTICHOKE, there are two kinds of, the globe and
the conical. The latter is the hardiest, but the former
is generally preferred, both for size and flavour. Ar-
tichokes are propagated from rooted slips, or offsets
in April, taken from the mother plant, by drawing
the mould aside. As they require a rich soil, an4
are stationary plants, dig a good quantity of dung in,
completely below the roots for them to strike into,
breaking the soil well with it.

The head of the artichoke is valuable according to,
its size and substance, and therefore to a good soil,
add good room: for though they may be planted
nearer, yet they would do much better in rows six
feet asunder, and three feet apart in the rows. Be-
tween these rows may be propagated several sorts of
spring or early summer crops. They will reward the.
trouble of being regularly watered in dry weather j
suffer them to bear only one principal head. Fresh,
plantations should be made every third or fourth
year, to have them in perfection. Every year that
they stano^ after planting they should be dug deeply-
round, and some well consumed manure applied.
Cut the heads when the leaves begin to expand, and
before the center opens for flowering ; and let them.
4

SECT. XV. OF ESCULENTS. 215

have about a foot of stalk, breaking the remaining
part of the stem down to the bottom, that it may
not rob the root by a waste of sap. At the spring
dressing, all the suckers are to be taken off, leaving
three only of the strongest shoots to fruit- Those
without roots will grow by planting deep, and keepr-
ing moist.

^Let the plants be protected from hard frosts ; at
the prospect of which, cut down the stalks and out-
side leaves to the inner ones, dig between, and earth
the plants to near the tops ; and if severe weather
follows, they should be covered thick with straw,
which must be removed when the frost goes. The
earthing-up Jieed not be levelled down till March,
or may be let alone till the time of their dressing,
which is best done at the beginning of April. If
uncovered early, let the litter lay ready in case of
frost to cover again.

To have a long succession of artichokes, some
blips should be planted at two different times every
spring, as they bear the same year, only come in
later, and with smaller heads than the old plants.
If being planted late, they do not produce in the
present season, they come forwarder the next sum-
mer than old stools do ; but remember, a good soil
and open situation are absolutely necessary for the-
artichoke. Tis of service to lay grass mowings, or
some litter, about the roots to keep them cool ; for
though artichokes should not be planted in a moist
soil, on account of frost, yet they thrive best in a
cool one. Artichokes that come latey may be cut
with their full stalks, and being laid up to the head
in moist sand, in a cellar, will keep a month, so that
they may sometimes be had at Christmas.

ASPARAGUS, there is (in tact) but one sort of, as.
fin esculent; but some difference occurs as: to size,
colour, and flavour, arising from cultivation, lu,

216 OF ESCULENTS. S>ECT, XV.

order to obtain large heads, and to have the beds
continue to produce the longer, much dung is used ;
but the less of it, the sweeter will this vegetable be,
so that in a soil naturally prolific, little dung need be
used.

Asparagus beds are commonly made from plants,
but the preferable way is from seed, the best of which
is the Gravesend sort. The time for both is March,
rather early in the month than late, though the be-
ginning of April may do. The plants should be
only a year old, and set in rows a foot distance, and
the roots the same, or a little less in the rows.

Making the beds four feet and a half wide, there
\vill be four rows of plants, and nine inches left ber
tween the outside rows and the alleys, which should
be two feet wide. The beds ought to be trenched
full eighteen inches deep, and enriched with dung
that is well consumed, burying it below the roots ;
they will soon strike into the dung, which had best
not lay immediately about them. If some mould
of rotted vegetables, or wood pile earth, in the
stronger soils ; and a little pond mud in the lighter,
were mixed with- the top soil, it would greatly help
the plants ; or if none other manure than a mixture
of all these were used through the whole work, it
were better. As Asparagus beds are designed to
last many years, (suppose ten or twelve) no pains
should be spared to do the work well ; and if the
ground were prepared sometime before hand, or in
winter, it would be an advantage, the top soil laying
trenched for the benefit of frost. The alleys, as well
as the beds, should be made good, for the roots of
the outer rows will strike into them. A rich sandy
loam is the best soil for asparagus, and if the earth
is too heavy, or too light, rectify it. The stronger
the soil, the higher the beds should lie above the
alley, and more rounded; and in very light soils

SECT. XV. OF ESCULENTS. 217

they should lie flat, or rather sinking, to catch the
rain.

To plant beds of asparagus set the line nine inches
from the edge of the bed, and cut the trench upright,
close to it, so deep that the crowns of the roots lie
full two inches below the surface. If the mould of
the bed lies light, and is likely to settle much, the
crowns of the plants may come very near the top,
and two inches of mould put on afterwards, which is
indeed the best method of planting : but if the
ground is not expected to settle, two inches of the
top mould must (in this method) be first drawn aside
to cover with. The roots must be neatly spread
against the trench, and cut as little as possible; i. e.
only the damaged parts off; it should be with a
sharp knife, and better if done the day before they
are used, that the ends may dry and heal. It is of
consequence to have the plants dug up carefully,
with a three pronged fork, that the roots may not
be injured.

To sow beds of asparagus, make little holes an
inch deep, at the distance directed for plants, and
having laid three fine seeds in each, near an inch
asunder, cover them three-fourths of an inch, which
will leave little hollows, to shew their places, and
give occasional watering in a dry time, to fetch them
up. If the beds were covered with a little haulm
or straw, till the plants appeared, it would help
them to germinate, as in a sunny season they are apt
to lie long, especially if the work be not done till
April. When the plants are above ground fill up
the holes. Refresh the plants occasionally with
water through the summer, and when they are two
inches high, thin the holes to one plant in each, and
cover the beds with an inch of mould, and they wiji
then be two inches deep, as was directed for plants.
The drawn plants may be pricked out at four or five

OF ESCULENTS. SECT. XV,

inches distance, to make good any deficiencies next
spring, or otherwise ; but if the plants are not want'
ed, it will be best to- cut the spare ones off, which
does not disturb the roots of those left. In October,
when the haulm is decayed, cover, the bed with
about half an inch of rotten dung, to make them
strong and keep out frost ; and, in severe weather,
put some long litter over all. In spring, take the
Jitter off, and gently stir (with a proper fork) the
rotten dung in : do so again the next year. Water-
ing asparagus beds with the draining of a dunghill
(a rich manure too often lost) in autumn, or spring,
will wash food down to the roots, and greatly benefit;
the lower soil to the increase of the produce : It is
particularly worth while to make a rank dunged
water for this purpose, to recover weak or old beds.
See p, 55.

Asparagus is cut front) planted beds in three years,
and from so\yn ones in four ; but this loss of a year,
will be amply repaid by the superior size and abun-«
dance of the heads. If the buds come very fine, a
little may be cut the year before. A thin crop of
onions, or of lettuces to prick out, is commonly had
on planted beds the. first, and on seed beds the two,
first years, taking care that none grow just about the
plants. The best method of doing this business, is
l?y an intermediate drill between each row, and again
Across them : It were bettev however to have n$
crop at all.

The management of Asparagus beds is, to cut
down the haulm, within an inch of the ground, when
it turns yellow in autumn, clearing of weeds, stirring
the ground, and covering the whole over with about
an inch of rotten dung before every winter, which is
to be forked in at spring, not to hurt the plants, and
covered with some parings of the mould from the
, which shpuld afterwards be dug over, if no

£ECT. XV. QF ESCULENTS.

crop is in them to prevent it. It may seem, that an
addition every year to the beds might sink the crowns
of the plants too low • but it is their nature to rise
as they grow. Besides the rotten dung, as above,
there may be laid some long litter over the beds,
before severe weather sets in ; but the covering of
asparagus beds is not simply to keep out frost,
(which will not hurt them without much wet) but
to keep them warm, that the buds may be forward
at spring. A stump ought to be kept at each corner
of the beds, to shew their bounds, and as marks to
pare the alleys up by, which (generally) should lay
three or four inches lower.

The cutting heads of asparagus should be care-
fully performed, not to injure adjoining buds that
are starting up. Move the mould a little aside to
see, and then close by the head, and with a little
slope, cut it cff about three inches below the ground.
The knife should have a long narrow blade, and a
proper one is indented with teeth as if a saw. It
may be cut, when from two {o four inches high ; and
let it be regularly done as soon as ready : If it has
lain by in a cool place, as in a dairy or cellar, it will
keep very well three or four days, to wait for more
if occasion be.

Six rods of well planted ground will produce, jn.
the full season, about a hundred a day ; and this, as
a rule, will help to determine how much room a pri-
vate family should allot for this vegetable.

BEANS we have several sorts of, differing in size,
colour, flower, flavour, hardiness, and time of com-
jng in. Of the forward t>ea,ns, the ma%<?gan is ge-
nerally preferred, as the earliest, hardiest, most pro-
ductive, and pleasant. The Portugal ranks next to
it. Of the later sorts, the Windsor stands firsj; as to
general estimation for eating ; but it is in most soils
rather an idle bearer, f he longpod and

220 OF ESCULENTS, SECT. XV,

however, are preferred by some, chiefly as more
fruitful. Trials must determine taste; but I may
observe, that the white blossom bean is a very good
one if eat young.

Close under a warm wall (to which they should
be kept by packthread) some mazagam may be put
in the ground early in October ; but at the latter end,
and the beginning of November, is surest, when they
commonly succeed at some distance from the wall,
earthing them up regularly as they proceed in growth.
Crop the tops off as soon as the lower blossoms are
full out, or begin to fade : This forwards them.

Put the small sorts of beans in three inches deep,
and four asunder, in single rows; or six inches
asunder every way, in double rows ; and let the
rows, in the first case, be two and a half, and in the
latter, three feet or rather more asunder.

There is a dwarf bean (the Spanish, or fan-
cluster) that grows but a few inches high, which is
very convenient to put in, close under a south wall,
in October, and they will thus be but a few days (if
any) later than the mazagan sown in November.

'Tis a good way to sow patches of beans in a warm
corner to stand the winter, placing them about an
inch from one another, and transplanting them at the
above distances, the first mild weather after Mid-
February or in March, to any sheltered part of the
garden, and if under a south wall (not too near) it
will forward them, especially if watered in a dry
time. Beans, sown in patches, may be easily co-
vered in severe weather, by a frame, £c. Make
trenches to lay them in when transplanted ; pull not
off the bean adhering to the roots, shorten them a
little, and put them in rather highly covered over
the shanks. If planted aslant, they will soon get
erect ; but this is only permitted in case of a shallow
soil, or long shanks and roots. If dry, give water.

SECT. XV* 0£ ESCULENTS.

In severe weather, a light covering of peas haulm,
or any straw, may be lain over winter beans to pro-
tect them, but must be taken off as soon as the
weather alters ; for too much covering of any thing
is as likely to destroy (eventually) as being wholly
exposed.

Though the mazagan is mostly the bean put in to
stand the winter, some gardeners sow other sorts for
the purpose, (even Windsors) which may succeed ;
but they certainly will not come in so early by near
a fortnight, and must have a dry sheltered situation.
The larger beans must be sown a little deeper, and
two or three inches farther asunder than the maza->
gan, allowing a foot more between the rows, espe-f
cially if double rows (which are best) be set.

If early crops of beans fail, through severity of
the winter, be sure to take the first opportunity of
open weather in the new year, to sow some of the
early sorts ; and if they be covered over with some
straw, they will come up the sooner; but remove
the covering as soon as the beans appear, if not
frosty at the time. Or if a hole be dug near a south
wall for two or three barrows full of hot dung, co-
vered with six inches of mould, beans may be set
very near one another, for planting out ; cover the
work with straw as before, and thus time will be
gained, especially if the beans be soaked a day and
night in a warm room.

Succession crops of beans are to be sown every
three weeks, or a month, from November to July ;
preferring the larger sorts in February ', and so on
to June, when the smaller (or early) kinds will be
the properest.

BEET, there are four kinds of, red, green, yellow,
and white, which are used several ways, as pot and
sallad herbs. The large leaves of the white and
yellow are sometimes blanched, when full grown, for

OF F.SCUtENTS. JlTCf; XV»

the sake of their thick ribs, being peeled for stew-
ing, and eat as asparagus y and called chards ; some
say the yellow is best, though the white is most com-
monly the sort used. Sow beets in February or
March, thinly, either in drills or broad cast, and
hoe them to a foot asunder : They run to seed the
second year. A little also may be sown, early in
autumn, for late spring use ; but they will be small.
The red sort is cultivated for its root, and is pre-
served in winter, in dry sand, as carrots are ; and
of this there is a turnip shaped sort, that suits best
in heavy shallow soils, and a long rooted sort proper
for light and deep ones ; Beets, and principally the
red, require a rich soil.

BOORCOLE, or cale, is a hardy green, of which
we have two principal sorts, green and brown, and
a little variety is in the leaf, as plain, curled, varie*
gated: The latter is a pretty vegetable when grow-
ing, but not so hardy, or so pleasant at table, as the
1 other sorts.

Some sow two crops of this green at the end of
March and of April, but one sowing may suffice ;
^nd the first day of April, or at least in the first
week, is the best time. Sow in an open situation,
and in cool ground, and thin the plants in time, that
they may be robust, and able to support themselves.

This veaetable should be planted out in rows a
yard asunder, and tw6 feet apart in the rows, having
been previously pricked out from the seed bed, at
six inches for five or six weeks, to obtain strength
for final planting in June or July.

Let boorcole, and all summer planted things, have
a good watering at the time, and again in a few days,
if the weather proves dry ; and before winter let
them be well earthed up to support the plants from
the wind and snow, that are apt to break them down,
or at least, to set them awry; which, when it hap-

*ECT. XV. 6F ESCULENTS.

pens, should be attended to, to fix them upright
again ; observe this of all other winter greens.

The heads of boorcole may be cut in winter, and
the sprouts come full in spring ; but the heads should
be frost bitten first. The sprouts should only be
topped when gathered, and they will shoot out again
below, and make a good succession.

BROCOLI is of two distinct kinds, the purple, -and
the white ; for the green, &c. are only varieties from
them ; of each, there are large and dwarf sorts, the
latter of which is mostly cultivated. All the sorts,
except the white, generally produce side shoots, a;s
well as a head. The white, called -cauliflower bro-
coli, as it resembles a cauliflower much, yet is not
so white. 'Tis not so hardy as the purple, *nor is it
thought so good ; perhaps the green may be esteem-
ed the best. Of the purple there is an early and a
late ; the former is sowed for autumn, and the
latter for spring use. There is often a new variety
of this plant.

The first day of April is a good general time to
sow for the autumn crop, (though some do it sooner)
and the last day of April for the spring crop. A
little white may be sown with the early autumn
purple. But it will be very proper to sow again a
fortnight after each ; and at the end of May, for
late spring use ; which, though they produce small
heads, will be very acceptable. Some gardeners
sow in June, or even the beginning of July. Do it
in open ground, and see that the young plants are
thinned, when quite small, that they may not toe
drawn up weak ; and prick them out when they
have got six leaves, to six inches distance, where
having grown to a proper robust size, (as about
July) let them be planted out at two feet, or a little
more, asunder. The autumn sort should be planted

OF ESCULFNTS, SECT. xv,

towards a warm wall, lest it come not in at the time.
Brocoli requires a rich and dry soil ; yet watering,
in a dry time, is necessary to help their heads to
swell, and forward them. Stir the ground about the
plants occasionally, and keep them well earthed up.
The best brocoli seed comes immediately from Italy,
whence we first had it ; but it degenerates.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS are winter greens, growing
much like boorcole, and by some preferred as more
delicate eating ; but they are not so hardy or pro-
ductive. Their culture is the same as boorcole,
only they may be planted out at rather less distance.

CABBAGE, there is a considerable variety of, as
to flavour, size, time of coming in, and hardiness.
Some a*e for the use of the table, and others for
cattle, though the latter are very sweet before they
get solid. The early dwarf, or Russian, and early
Yorkshire, are the chief sorts for spring use, and
the early and late sugarloqf&s excellent for summer
and autumn.

In April, the for ward est cabbages may be tied
up, (as lettuces are) to assist them to head and
whiten ; a practice seldom seen done, but which
will certainly be helpful : Use new bass made wet.

Sow for early spring cabbages about Mid- August ;
soon after they are up, thin them : in a month,
draw the strongest, and prick them out four or five
inches apart, where having grown about the same
time, they will be fit to plant for spring use ; or they
may be put out any time after, even in winter ; for
should frost come directly, it will hardly affect them
injuriously. Yet it is a good practice to let some
remain in the seedbed, at proper distances, where
being well earthed up, (or in severe weather covered
a little) will survive when those set out are cut off".
Plants that are thought too rampant towards winter,

SBCT. XV. OF ESCULENTS. 225

may be pulled up, and planted in the same place
again, (November) and thus stand the frost better,
and not be so likely to run.

Plant cabbages, if in a middling soil, two feet
asunder, allowing six inches more for a rich one :
There should, however, always be some dung dug
into the ground; which not only increases their
growth, but prepares the soil for future cropping.
If they are planted at half the above distances in
the rows, taking care to draw every other plant in
time for early greens (or colezvorts) it is a very good
method, as the ground is better occupied, and the
plants being so close protect one another. See
Coleworts.

The1 late cabbages, or those of summer and au-
tumn, should be sown early and late in the spring.
For early summer uses, sow after Mid-February on
a little heat, or under hand-glasses, on a warm
border ; the later crops in March, to the end of it ;
and for the latest at the end of April ; when the
small Russian sort will answer best, and be delicate

greens.

Sow red cabbage seed either about the middle of
August or beginning of March ; but as there is
much more bad seed than good of this vegetable,
be as careful of the sort as possible; i. e. such as
will be solid, and of a deep colour.

CARROT, there is a little variety of, in colour,'
size, and time of coming in, though not much in
taste. We have orange, red, and yellow, but the
former .is generally preferred. The sort sown for
the Jirst crop, whether in cold ground, or on a hot-*
bed, is the early horn-carrot. Both this and the late
horn-carrot grow short, and are therefore proper for
heavy, or shallow soils, as the other sorts are for
light and deep ones.

Q

OF ESCULENTS. SECT. XV,

-Sow carrots always in good time, as the seed lies
long in thp ground, and they are, by many persons,
coveted early. A few should be sown in a favour-
able situation, the first tolerable weather in February,
digging the ground well and deep for the purpose ;
for if it is lumpy, the carrots will grow forked, as
they will also if the ground is fresh dunged.

Carrot seed should be mixed with dry sand, or
earth, rubbing them well together, in order the better
to spread it equally iu sowing. Use about twice as
much sand as seed, and if earth, it were better to
be of a different colour from that on which the seed
is distributed, that the seed may be seen.

If early in the month, the new sown beds may be
covered with a little haulm, or straw, which will help
the seed to germinate, and preserve them from being
thrown Out of the ground by frost ; and this cover^
ing should be continued on nights, and takea off by
day, when the plants are up ; which practice being
continued for some time, will greatly forward, as
well as preserve the crop. Some people sow in
December and January, if the weather is mild ; but
for this, (and other circumstances in gardening)
situation must, in a measure, govern, and discretion
determine : In this case, cover the ground with straw,
as for radishes ; which see.

If a hot bed be made for carrots, let it be about
two feet and a half thick of dung, and covered with
eight inches of sifted mould, as soon as the violent
heat is gone off. Sow the seed directly, a full
quarter of an inch aeepv and if covered \vith lights,
give air sufficient to keep the earth only just warm.
A hooped bed to be covered with mats may do for
this purpose, but in this case, two feet of dung may
answer better than more : for if the seed is hurried
up, they will be too tender for the protection of such

SECT. XV. OP ESCULENTS. 227

a covering, and the plants will run to top, and not
bottom well.

Thin the plants soon to an inch asunder, and in a
little time again to three inches, in order to grow to
a small size for use ; and if not so waited, at any
rate draw some equally, that those which remain
may swell properly : Carrots should have a great
share of air if covered with glass.

The principal crop of carrots should be sown.
early in the month of March, or before the end of
it, and be soon hoed, or thinned by hand, to a small
distance, and a while after to a greater; so that
together with hoeing and drawing for use, they should
at last stand at from eight to ten inches distance, ac-
cording to the soil. This may seem too much, but
certainly carrots have, in common, too little room
allowed them for attaining their proper size. Let
the first hoe be of the breadth of three inches, and
the second of six. No consideration should prevail
to let carrots stand too long before they are properly
thinned.

A few late carrots may be sown in April and
May, to draw young in the summer ; and some in
August, to stand the winter, for early spring use ;
but carrots that stand the winter grow hard, and are
of very little worth, except to flavour soups.

In autumn, let carrots be taken up as soon as their
leaves begin to change ; for when they continue too
long in the ground, they are apt to get worm-eaten,
especially in rich soils. Cut the tops off at an inch,
arid lay them up dry and free from mould, in dry
sand, a layer of sand, and a layer of carrots. All
those that are broken, or cut, should be thrown aside
for present spending, as they would decay in the
heap, and spread infection to the rest Those who
grow large quantities for cattle, stack them in hovels,
• Q 2

or ESCULENTS. SECT. XT.

&c. with a thick coat of straw, bottom and sides,
and particularly on the top. In a soil that suits
them, carrots turn to good account, and are excel-
lent food for all sorts of cattle, but particularly pigs
and horses. *

CAULIFLOWER is sometimes distinguished into
an early and late sort ; though, in fact, there is no
difference, only as the seed of that called early is
saved from the forwardest plants-.

The time for sowing cauliflowers is rather a nice
business, but it is generally settled for the 20th of
August, a day under or over. It will be prudent
however, to sow again a few days after, but not
earlier, as then they would be apt to form only very
little heads, and run up for seed. Let the young
plants be timely thinned, that they may be strong.
Prick them out when the first leaves are about an
inch broad. And as cauliflowers are tender, they
will require to be pricked out in the warmest and
driest part of the garden. Some of them should be
protected under hand-glasses, frames, or hoops and
mats, shutting up close, and covering the glasses
with mats or straw in severe weather : not doing
this, however, before the weather makes it necessary,
and always allowing what air they will bear, espe-
cially towards spring, otherwise they may be dis-
posed to run, or will be weak and sickly. Keep
them free from dead leaves, and stir the surface of
the earth about them. As the season advances, let
them be wholly uncovered on fair days, and when
they are got forward in March, draw the spare ones
to plant out, .leaving only a single plant under a
small hand-glass, and two under a large one ; or a
few may be drawn out at the end of February, if
the glasses are crowded. Continue the glasses on
as long as they will contain the plants, raising them

SECT. XV. OF ESCULENTS.

upon bricks. The number generally put under hand-
glasses for the winter is from three to five ; and if th«
glasses are on close for a few days, it will help them
to strike. Those drawn from these, make a good suc<-
cession crop : But do not prick out, or plant, those
that have black shanks, for they will come to nothing *
Cauliflowers are liable to this defect chiefly in wet
seasons. Slugs are apt to harbour about them, for
feeding on the leaves, which see to, especially those
in frames, and now and then stir the mould about
them. The distance which they should be planted is
from two and a half to three feet, according to the
richness of the soil.

If the autumn sown plants are cut off, the earliest
opportunity must be taken in the new year to sow
some seed on a gentle heat, as in February, covering
with glasses, or only with hoops and mats. From
this bed, when it is cold, they should be pricked upoii
another, where let them grow till planted out to bear.
And if those weak ones, that have stood all the
winter, were pricked out early in the spring upon a
little heat, covered with good mould, it would
strengthen and forward them much. In default of
dung, sow under a close hand-glass in a warm
border.

To have a succession of cauliflowers till winter,1 so\v
on a slight heat, or under glass, in March, for plants
to follow the first crop ; and again in open ground,
about the end of April. If winter should overtake
some of the latest plants, they may be taken up,
when in flower, with a ball of earth, and planted or
laid in a conservatory, or a cellar, where they will
swell their heads, and be safe for a month, or more.
All the succession crops, except the last, should
be planted in a cool part of the garden, not
shaded.

230 OF ESCULENTS. SECT. XV.

Cauliflowers require a rich soil, and to be kept
moist during summer, especially when flowering, wa-
tering them well twice or thrice a week. If the water
were impregnated with sheep or other dung, to the
strength of about an ounce of salt to a gallon of
water* it would help them in size, for cauliflowers
are greedy feeders. The ground in which they grow
can hardly be too full of dung; nor need there be
any fear as to making them rank: a little salt thrown
in the water, is, however, cleaner, and does away the
idea of rankness. When they are watered, the earth
may be drawn from the steins, and put to again. As
soon as the head appears, break down one or two of
the middle leaves over them to protect from the wea-
ther: It preserves them white and cool, and en-
creases the size. This should be particularly prac-
ticed with Autumn heads, lest wet or frost spoil the
flower.

CELERY we have three or four sorts of, as the
common Italian upright ; both hollow and solid,
with the giant, hollow, and turnip rooted, or cekriac.

For early celery, sow in the last week of February,
or first in March, on a gentle hot bed, or in a warm
rich border, under a hand-glass, or not. When cul-
tivated so early, it is apt to run, but if only a few
plants stand tolerably, it is worth while to try, and
even when in a pipy state it does for soups. Sow
thin, cover so, and keep the earth moist; for the
seed is slow in coming tip if the weather prove
dry.

For the principal crop, sow at Mid-March, and a
late one again at Mid- April.

A little seed may be sown at the beginning or even
latter end of May ; and if the ground is covered
with a mat, it will help the seed to germinate, by
keeping the earth cool, and from a drying air : but

SECT. XV. OP ESCULENTS. 231

it must be taken off, and the ground lightly watered,
as soon as the plants appear. If the weather should
be very sunny, shade the young plants a little for a
few days, by raising the mat, or* laying some brush
wood over.

Prick out the plants in moist weather (if possible)
when two or three inches high, at three or four astu>
der. Water them every other day for a, week if dry
weather succeeds.

Plant celery when six inches high, in trenches a
yard distant, and six inches from one another. In a
light soil, the trenches may be somewhat deeper ; but
generally near a spadti's depth is proper, and a spade's
width, keeping the walls firm and upright. Shorten
long roots and high tops, >and push off small side
shoots.

-If the soil is not very good, dig in a little wejjl-
rotted dung at bottom ; but the celery will be sounder
and sweeter without dung; an<l though the plants
.will not icoine up so large, they will be hardier .jp
resist frost. !&%,.. Jqttr that celery is planted pujt;
the shallower the trenches should be; and when
late, be the more careful to displace the small side
shoots. ;«!] 7-10 ^ ;,» ..

Water celery at plan ting as at pricking out, and oc-
casionally afterwards in very dry weather, for it likes
a moist soil, and will not grow large and tender in a
dry, or light one.

Earth up the plants frequently (as suppose every
week or ten days, in a growing season) a little at a
time, in order to blanch them, by which they become
crisp, sweet, and tender: The celery gets tough and
rank, when this business is let alone too along. In
earthing up, it is a good way to gather the plants
close (but carefully) with the lelt hand, using a
trowel, or small spade, for the purpose.

232 <$F ESCULENTS. SECT. XV.

In severe frost, lay some long, dry, litter over the
tops, which remove when the frost goes. In prospect
of such weather, take up some, and lay it by in dry
earth under shelter for use.

Cekriac requires a rich soil, and should have
frequent watering to have fine tender roots. Plant
in trenches about three inches deep, and earth up,
(only once) when the plants are about three parts
grown, to four inches height. This species is har-
dier than the others, and holds longer in spring;
therefore, those who like the solid root should culti-
vate it.

The seed of celery, (in default of plants) if bruised,
answers, very well to give soup a flavour of it. Par-
sley seed, &c may be used in the same way.

CHARPON is a gigantic vegetable of the artichoke
kind, (now seldom cultivated) used sometimes in
salladsy but chiefly in soups, or stewed, £c. Sow
about the middle of March, and end of April, in
trenches, four feet, or more, asunder, a foot wide,
and six inches deep. Drop the seed (which will be
near a month coming up) a few inches asunder, and
thin them at last to the distance of from three to four
feet, They must be watered in a dry time. Those
plants that are drawn may be taken up with balls of
earth about them, and planted in trenched rows as
celery, at the above distance, and the rows five feet
from one another. The leaves only of this plant are
used, after they are blanched; which is done by
earthing two thirds of their length up, when about
three or four feet high, tying neat hay-bands first
•close round them, to within a foot of the top; i. e.
blanch when they are full grown, in 4ugust and
?pt&nbcr, and in about six weeks they will be fit
In these months it will be well to water
them regularly in dry weather, to prevent their

SECT. XV. OF ESCULENTS. 233

ing. In frost cover the tops with straw: It will
assist the blanching to lay straw, or offal hay, close
round them when tied. This plant is biennial here,
but perennial in its native climate, Spain, &c.

CHOU DE MILAN is of the boorcole kind, and pro-
pagated like it, but the plants should be put out at a
yard asunder. This is a very good winter green,
and stays longer than any other at spring before it
shows for seed, and is then in its highest perfection.

COLEWORT- is a very hardy, small, open headed
green, sown in July, or early in August, for winter
and spring use. But instead of the true colewort,
(a coarse vegetable) it is common to sow the early
sort of cabbages -as an agreeable substitute, to be
eat in their yet open state. The sweetest, however,
is the large sugar-loaf sort, sown about Midsummer,
which frequently stands the winter.

These plants should be put out for use at from eight
to twelve inches asunder, according to the sort as to
size, though some gardeners plant closer.

Coleworts are cultivated for winter and early spring
use ; but all the year it were well for the garden to
supply them, as they are choice greens. With this
view, sow cabbage seed of some sort every month,
and rather the early dwarf about once a fortnight.

CUCUMBER has several shades of difference in it,
arising from culture and accident: but the common

O *

and more distinct green sorts of it, are the short and
the long prickly, the cluster, the early African, and
the Turkey. There is a white short Dutch prickly ;
and also a white Turkey sort ; but both are idle
bearers.

The early nature of a cucumber is the principal
object with gardeners,' for as much skill and care is
exercised to produce forward ones, it is a great draw-
back to have sown seed not of the forwardest kind.

234 OF ESCULENTS. SECT. XV.

Of the seed called early, there is no doubt much
difference : How material a thing it is to improve the
breed, and to be ascertained of the quality of seed
for early crops, is therefore evident.

The principal crop of cucumbers should be the
long prickly, which is preferable, on the whole, to
any other. The Turkey grows strait, long and large;
but quality is certainly before quantity, and the cu-
cumber that eats crispest is the best. In this respect
the Dutch, or white short prickly, (little as it is cul-
tivated) is, perhaps, even before the justly admired
long prickly, and has fewer seeds: It has an evident
difference in taste, but is generally liked. The early
African is a very favourite cucumber with some gar-
deners.

Seed should never be saved, except from the most
spiny handsome cucumbers. See Of raising Cu-
cumbers in the last section.

ENDIVE is a sallad and culinary vegetable, of
which there are three sorts, the curled green and
white, and the plain, or broad leaved. The plain,
or Batavian endive, is but little used in sallads, as
the curled is so much preferable, though cooks prefer
it for stewing: The green is the hardiest, and there-
fore the late sowings should be all of this sort.

Sow endive at three several times, between the
middle of May, and the middle of July, at equal
intervals. Some of the first may, perhaps, run for
seed; but yet a little should be then sown; as also
at the beginning of August for late use. Scatter the
seeds thin, and do not suffer them to grow in clusters
to become weak. When the plants are about three
inches high, plant them out in an open situation a
foot asunder, watering them at the time and twice or
thrice after, till they have taken root. The same
sowing will make several crops, drawing the strongest

SECT. XV. OF ESCULENTS. 23,5

first, and in a week after more. The best heads are
produced from robust plants never moved, and which
have been^ell watered in a dry time. Endive should
have a rich soil.

Those planted out after Michaelmas should be on
warm borders ; but if long after, (as towards winter)
the method of planting is thus, which blanches at the
same time: Draw earth to an high ridge, under a
sunny wall, and taking up carefully some full grown
endive in a dry state, gather the leaves up close,
without breaking, tie them neatly with bass, and put
them close together, sideways ; i. e. horizontally ia
the ridge, almost to the top of the leaves. If any
suspicion of wet in them, hang the plants up by the
roots, in some, covered, shady, airy place, for a day
or so. In severe weather lay straw over all.

Endive in open ground should be protected from
sharp frost by pease haulm, or other dry litter.
Some may be planted in frames, or under hand
glasses, giving plenty of air, or in a shed, or hovel,
open towards the sun, either in the upright, or ridged
way.

The blanching of endive in open ground is thus:—
Gather up the leaves (being dry,} when nearly of a
full grown size, and tie them regularly and carefully
round, from the middle upwards, moderately close,
with bass, and earth them up to the middle, if the
soil is light and dry, but not otherwise. In two or
three weeks, the blanching is effected, after which
the endive must soon be used, or it will rot, especi
ally if much wet comes. The object of blanching is
to take away the bitter taste of the endive, and to
make it crisp and tender. Blanch a little at a time,
once a week, that it may come in proper succession.
See Succory (or wild endive) next section.

GARLIC is used for both culinary and medicinal
purposes. The cloves should be planted in autumn,

5

£36 OF ESCULENTS. SECT. XV.

or early in spring, in rows six or eight inches asunder,
three deep, and six from one another in the rows,
preferring a light dry soil. If the leaves are tied up
in knots in June, it will prevent their spindling for
seed, and help their bulbs to swell. Take them up
towards autumn, when their leaves turn yellow ;
keep them in bags, or hang them up in a dry place.

GOURD, SQUASH, and CALABASH, is of one fa-
mily; see PUMP ION, the culture being the same.

HORSE-RADISH is variously used for culinary pur-
poses; when scraped fine, it is a good addition to
salladS) especially in the colder seasons. Propagate
crowns, or pieces of the root from one to two inches
long, having an eye or two ; set them from nine to
twelve inches below the surface of the ground, (ac-
cording to the nature of the soil, as heavy or light)
by digging a trench, and covering them over, or
(which is not so good a way) by making holes with a
dibble ; it should be the work of February or Oc-
tober, and the soil must not only be deep, but rich,
or the roots will be weak.

This root will grow finer, and be more conveni-
ently dug, to have the rows two feet, and the sets
one foot asunder in them, though a less distance is
the more common practice. Where there is plenty
of ground, however, it is not worth while to be
cramped, and the first year of planting, the ground
may be cropped witli any early things. The roots
will not be fit for use the first year; but the second
they come strong and warm. Take them up care-
fully, regularly moving the earth away, and cut off
close to the stool, from whence fresh heads will be
sure to spring.

New plantations of horse-radish should be made
about every fifth year ; and old ones should be cleared
from the straggling side shoots, in order to keep the
rows open, but take them up deeply.

SECT. XY. OF ESCULENTS. 237

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE is cultivated for the root,
(which eats somewhat like artichoke bottoms) and it
is an ornamental plant, very like the perennial sun-
flower, with which it classes, but taller. Propagate
'in March, by planting cuttings of its root, as pota-
toes. The root is red, and full of indented eyes,
every one of which is sure to grow. Where it has
been once planted, it must be carefully dug up, or it
will not easily be got rid of. Any poor ordinary spot
of spare ground will do for it. Preserve the roots in
dry sand, when they can be no longer preserved in
the ground, immediately dug from which they are
much best

KIDNEY BEAN we have two kinds of, dwarfs and
runners, each of which has a rather numerous va-
riety. Both sorts have their admirers, but the dwarf
sorts are more generally esteemed, and (in general)
more conveniently cultivated.

Of the variety in the dwarf beans, some come
earlier than others ; but there is difference in opi-
nions, which is the best, as to earliness and quality.
The yellow and the black are, perhaps, as forward as
any. The early white is not long behind, and is of
superior flavour, but not so hardy as the yellow and
black, and some others. The white may therefore
be the second crop. The dwarf sorts come in
quicker than the runners. For the principal crop,
the Battersea and Canterbury beans are mostly
used by the market gardeners, being good and pro-
lific.

Of the runners, or climbing sort, the common
scarlet and the white Dutch, are generally preferred,
and when mixed together, their blossoms make an
agreeable show, and bear a long time, if the beans
are gathered constantly as they get fit for use.

The dwarf sorts of this vegetable may be had most
months in the year, by the united means of open cul-

£38 OF ESCULENTS* SECT. XV.

ture, hot-beds, and hot-houses. In cold ground they
are sometimes sown, close under a south wall, to-
wards the end of a dry March ; but April is soon
enough; for if thev get above ground without rotting,
(as the seed is apt to do, when the ground is long wet)'
a little frost will cut them off. It is a good way to
sow again in about a week, lest the first should fail to
come up.

The latter end of March, however, if .some are
sown in a warm border, in patches, and covered with
hand-glasses, they will do very well. Or an early
crop may be produced by raising the beans, at this
time, on a gentle hot-bed, and planting them out,
when two or three inches high, under glasses, in
patches of four or five, and near two feet asunder.
If the beans are raised in small pots, three or four in
each, they may be turned out whole, with great ad-
vantage, as kidney beans do not always bear trans-
planting well ; and they may be covered on nights
with hand-glasses, garden pots, &c.

When these forwarded beans are planted in rows
singly, let it be under a warm wall, and not (if it
can be avoided) till the end of April, or beginning of
Mai/; and protect them awhile at first, on cold nights,
with matting, or otherwise.

As to the hot-bed culture of kidney beans, if any
are attempted to be brought to fruit on heat, let them
be raised, towards the end of February, upon one
gentle bed, (or in pots, at the back of a cucumber
frame) and planted out in another, in rows fifteen
inches a part, and at four inches in the rows; for
nearer they will not fruit well. The bed may be
about two and a half feet thick, and must have on
it seven or eight inches of mould, and the plants
treated with as much air as can safely be given them.
Line the bed before the heat is quite gone, to pre-
serve and forward them. The sort most used for

SECT. XV. OF ESCULENTS* 239

forcing in hot-houses is a reddish speckled one ; but
the early white is fittest for forcing in hot-beds, as of
lower growth : The early yellow and black may do.
Support them by ties to little sticks.

The common culture of the dwarf bean, in the
proper season, and open ground, is to sow them
an inch or an inch and a half deep, three or four
asunder, and two feet, or a little more, to a yard be-
tween the rows, according to the size of the seed, for
some sorts require more room than others. Let them
be earthed up-, as they proceed in growth; and to
have a succession^ . so w every three weeks; remem-
bering that a crop produces more, and lasts longer,
the oftener the beans, are gathered: It is proper,
therefore, to do it constantly whilst young and good,
even if they are not wanted.

The last crop should be under a warm wall, and
may be sown as late as the middle, or end of July ;
and if very dry weather, let the beans for this, and
the June crop, be soaked about twelve hours in milk
and water, and the drills watered, in order to for-
ward their germination, and bring them more cer-
tainly and regularly up. It is a good way to prepare
the seed for high summer, by laying it in damp mould
till it begins to chit, and then planting it in watered
drills. In a course of dry warm weather, kidney
beans should be watered, especially while young.

The culture of rnners is to sow them near two
inches deep, four or five asunder, and the rows four
or five feet apart. They will require tall brushy
sticks to climb upon; but they may be sown in
patches of about fifteen inches diameter, placing the
beans five or six inches asunder, in the circum-
ference, ami fixing a pole in the middle for them to
be 'trained and run upon. The end of April, or
beginning of May^ is soon enough, to put the climb-
ing sorts into the ground ; and two more sowing?,

240 Of ESCUIENTS, SECT. XV.

at a month between each, will g$. through the sea-
son ; i. e. till frost conies.

If seed is sav^d, let it be only from some of the
Jirst beans of the principal crop, for all late formed
seeds, and particularly of the kidney bean, are not
near so good as the early one, often failing or pro-
ducing weak plants, and late ill-tasted fruit.

LEEK we have a narrow and a broad leaved sort
of, the latter of which is the one generally culti-
vated. The leek requires a rich soil, and open situ-
ation. There is a sort with variegated leaves.

Sow in February, if the weather is tolerable, or
at the beginning of March. Thin in April to three
inches asunder, and plant them out the first moist
weather after Midsummer, in rows near a foot apart,
and at six inches in the rows ; though if the ground
be very rich, and the leeks forward, a little more may
be allowed to advantage. Trim the tops, and ends
of the roots : and it is a good way (if the soil is not
heavy) to plant with a dibble, two or three inches in
the ground, in order to whiten the heads ; but to this
end some plant leeks in trenches, and earth them up
high, with a light soil, or coarse sand ; at any rate,
however, if the rows are wide, earth them up a
little.

Towards winter, or in prospect of frost, leeks may
be taken up, and laid with their roots in sand, or
earth, in some conservatory, or cellar. A few may
be sown towards the end of April, or even in Mai),
to stand over the winter for late spring use.

LETTUCE is a vegetable, of which there is a great
variety. The brown Dutch, and the green cabbage
lettuces come earliest, and are mostly to be depended
upon to stand the winter ; though some other sorts
will, except the silver coss and white coss. The
brown and the green Egyptian coss are excellent,
being hardy and large, forming close heads; but the

SECT. XV. OF ESCULENTS. 241

latter is earliest The cabbage lettuce eats mode-
rately well, but is chiefly used in soups, &c. The
Silesia lettuce is much admired by some, though at
present but little cultivated: There is a brown and
green sort of it.

For winter and spring use, the hardier sorts are
sown in July, August, and September, but chiefly in
August, when if three sowings are made, the be-
ginning, middle, and end of the month, it will gene-
rally be found .sufficient. They may be sown, how-
ever, all September, or even at the beginning of Oc~
tober, and it may be stand, when older plants are
cut off.

For summer use, the white coss, and any of the
others, may be sown on warm borders, either in open
ground, or under hand-glasses, or other cover, in
February, and a little constantly every fortnight, or
three weeks after, causing cooler ground for them
when summer advances. Plant them from ten to
fourteen inches asunder, according to the size they
attain ; it being an error to put lettuces out so near
as many do, for it forces them to run for seed, and
prevents their growing large : The sorts called the
Egyptian, and the admirable, should be allowed
eighteen inches, Lettuces may be pricked out very
young ; and when three or four inches high is the
best time for planting them.

It is not a common way, but spring sown lettuces
will be forwarder and larger if sown thin, and only
thinned out to their proper distance : Those that are
drawn may serve for a second crop. The brown
Dutch, green capuchin, the tennis-ball, and button
lettuces, do not run up so soon for seed as the other
sorts, and are therefore proper for late summer use.
To forward early spring sown ones, a slight hot*bed
may be made, and by all means ought to be sonic
time in February, if those that were to have stood

R

OF ESCULENTS. SECT. XV,

the winter are cut off. When these plants are an
inch high, they should be pricked out, four inches
asunder, upon another gentle hot-bed ; and when
they meet, or are four or five inches high, draw every
other to plant out in open ground, and let the rest
remain to cabbage.

JVinter lettuces, that are forward, are more likely
to be destroyed than the smaller, as the wet hangs
in them ; let them he covered with frames, hand-
glasses, or hoops and mats; but covered plants must
have a great deal of air at all opportunities. Win-
ter lettuces require a dry soil and situation, and a
tvet one is helped by planting them on hillocks,
which is a method that frequently saves them from
rotting : Those in the open ground are often de-
stroyed by grubs lurking about the roots, which evil
should be seen to, if suspected.

To h&vejine winter lettuces, some of the forward-
est may be taken up with balls of earth about them
in November, and planted at nine or ten inches dis-
tance, on a somewhat strong hot-bed, which, as soon
as the great heat is certainly over, should be covered
•with six or seven inches of dry mould for the pur-
pose, but give a little water just about the roots :
Line the bed when it gets cool. Lettuces must be
well attended to ; to give them plenty of air, pick
off dead leaves, cover on nights, &c. Frequently stir
the surface of the mould, and give water as occasion
may dictate. The cabbage lettuce succeeds best in
hot-beds.

Tying lettuces with bass, from the middle upwards,
when abaut three parts grown, will somewhat help
them to whiten and cabbage ; but let this business
be done .carefully. Some gardeners do not think it
worth while to practice it ; and indeed, right good
sorts (as to seed) will cabbage themselves, and open

SECT* XV. OF ESCULENTS. £43

ones it is of little use to; yet this assistance should
be adopted for thejirst crop, to help whiten.

Lettuces are sometimes sown thick to draw young
for small sallading ; for which purpose, the lap and
cabbage lettuces are the properest, as they eat ten-
derer and sweeter in their infant state : the lap seed
sort is very cheap, and chiefly is that which is used.
MELON there is a variety of/ in size, shape, coat,
and colour of the flesh. The sorts we best suc-
ceed with are the musk, (or common oblong
ribbed melon) the Roman, -the Portugal, and the
Cantaleupes in variety, as the common rock, the
black, the orange, and the silver. The Roman and
Portugal are small, but early. The Cantaleupes are
justly the most admired fruit, but are not so good
bearers as the others.

The seed brought from the continent (where me-
lons are much finer than in England) seldom suc-
ceeds here. Whoever sows it, must not begin
too early, must use more heat, and give less
water than is necessary for Denizens. See, Of rais-
ing Melons, p. 203.

ONION, we have several sorts, but the Strasburgh
(oval shaped) is that mostly cultivated, as it keeps
the best. The silver skinned and Spanish (flat shaped)
are milder, and therefore by some preferred. The
Welch sort does not bulb, and it is rank; but for its
being very hardy, is sown thick in August, and suf-
fered to stand so for winter and spring use, as a
green substitute for others. At this time, abo, some
of the Strasburgh may be sown, and perhaps stand
the winter in a good situation. The Welch onion is
not only hardy, but perennial. They are apt to die
down in winter, but the roots shoot again ; which,
when they begin to- do, if earthed over an inch, or
so, they will blanch, come forwarder, and eat the
milder.

244 OF ESCULENTS. SECT. X*.

The small silver skinnetf onion is the sort fittest
for summer sallading and pickling. Sow first at the
end of March, and to have them young once every
three weeks after. Chuse poor ground for the
picklers.

The true scallion is got quite out of cultivation,
having given way to the Welch onion ; as also to the
Other sorts, that are made milder scallions of, by
planting early in spring, those that sprout in the
house, which quickly grow. Set them in drills six
inches asunder, and two inches apart in the drills.

For the principal crop of onions, sow the Stras-
lurgh or any other, towards the end of February, or
soon after, though any time in March may do, for it
is desireable to shun frost: Let the soil be rich.
The earliest crops (of course) produce the largest
bulbs. As soon as they will bear it, (as to size) let
them be , thinned either by hoe or hand, to an inch
or two apart, and twice afterwards, till each root has
full four inches square of ground to grow in.

Onions will transplant when five or six inches
high, taking care to give water immediately, which
repeat ; but the soil to which they are removed should
be rich and well broke. In this way, those whose
crops fail may be supplied from other gardens. If
any onion seed is sown, that comes directly from
Portugal or Spain, it will be very large the first year,
and should have six inches room allowed them to
bulb finely.

Crops of onions should be kept very clean from
weeds, and it 'would be of advantage to water them
once or twice a week in dry weather. In July, or
August, when the leaves begin to dry at the ends,
shrink and turn yellow, let them be bent down close
to the ground, with the foot, rake, or back of a spade
rather hard. In about ten days after, let them be
drawn in dry weather, and laid to harden by the

SECT. XV. OF ESCULENTS. £45

sun, turning them every two or three days for a fort*
night. House them clean and dry, into neither a warm,
nor damp, butcloseroom; laying them thin, frequently
looking them over in the winter to decayed ones out,
which would damage the rest : But onions are best
kept strung and hung up, called roping.

PARSLEY, broad leaved, a&, an esculent root, is
commonly called Hamburgh parsley, and is eat as
carrots.' Sow it early in March or April, either ,at
broad cast or in drills, and leave the plants six inches
asunder. ;The roots may be preserved in sand ; but
it is the practice of some to sow at Midsummer*, to
draw them young in winter, being best when fresh
dug. It is chiefly medicinal. See parsley, next
section.

PARSNEP is a sweet and valuable root, less culti-
vated than it deserves, being accounted very nou-
rishing. As carrots require a light soil, so the pars-
nep does a strong one. Sow about the end of Fe-
bruary, or early in March, digging the ground well
and deep. If the soil is light, tread the seed in twice
over to fasten it in the ground ; it comes up in about
three weeks. Thin when about two inches high, with
a small hoe, and afterwards with a large one, so as
to leave the roots in a good rich soil, a loot asunder,
though eight or ten inches will do in light, or indif-
ferent mould. Any thing that is to go off quick, may
be sown with parsneps, as carrots to draw young,
radishes, lettuces, &c. Parsneps are not good till
arrived at maturity. The roots are to be taken up,
and preserved as carrots ; but they may remain
longer in the ground, and are seldom hurt by frost,
so that some of the roots are commonly left undug
till spring; take them then up for use just as they
begin to) ^oot, if they are not wanted for seed;
when the '\ keep good in sand till mid- April.
PEA, we imve a considerable garden variety of,

246 OF ESCULENTS. SECT. XT.

arising from the size, time of coming in, colour of
flower and fruit, and somewhat in taste. The prin-
cipal distinction is made, as to early and late peas,
so that if the earliest pea is sown at the same time
with one of the latest, there will be three weeks dif-
ference in their bearing, and a fortnight is usually
reckoned between the" common hotspur and mar-
rowfat.

• -The early frame pea (which is that forced, in hot
beds, £c.) may be sown under a warm wall » at the
middle, or rather at the latter end of October, or be-
ginning of November, and being kept regularly
earthed up, will commonly survive the winter, .and
produce peas by the end of May : Do it in short
rows, a yard asunder, at right angles with the wall,
or rather inclining a point to the east, for the first
sun.

The frame pea is not a good bearer, either in the
size, or number ojf its pods, and therefore the hot-
spurs being hardier and more prolific, are sown by
many gardeners for their earliest crop, and the dif-
ference of coming in is often but a few days. The
frame pea, however, takes up less room than the
hotspurs, and in this respect best suits a fruit border,
which should not be encumbered with tall crops.
Fancy will rule in the choice of peas, but the esta-
blished sorts of the Reading, or Charlton hotspur,
and dwarf marrowfats, are excellent for the sum-
mer crops.

The frame pea may be sown a quarter of an inch
asunder, and the hotspur half; it is common indeed
to sow thicker, but not advisable in a good soil.

Earthing up peas, and particularly the early
crops, should be done frequently, a little at a time,
in dry weather, beginning when only half an inch
high. The early peas should have some haulm, or
dry straw laid lightly against, or over them (or short

SE€T, XV. OF ESCULENTS. 247

sticks) in hard frosts : but let the covering be imme-
diately moved aside when the weather becomes mild.

Sticking peas is to take place as soon as they begin
to vine, (or put forth tendrils,) or appear too weak to
support themselves against wind. Let the sticks bfe
set strait, neat, and full; and by all means high enough
for the sorts; allowing sticks of three feet above
ground for the frame pea ; near five for the hotspur,
near six for the dwarf marrowfat, and seven or
eight for the larger sorts. If short of wood, stick-
ing only the S. or W. side of the rows may do, if
the wind does not set very contrary. Some people
sow double rows of peas at from eight inches to a
foot asunder, and set sticks only in the middle, earth-
ing the peas towards them. Peas that are to grow
•without sticks, may be sown, the smaller sorts in rows
at two, and the larger at three feet asunder. But
use sticks if possible.

The beginning of December, more peas may be
sown, and towards the end of January, or the be-
ginning of February, in order to have a full supply
at the first of the season : The earliest opportunity
in the new year should be taken, if those sown be-
fore have been cut off, or greatly injured. Peas
sown at the beginning of February are often not a
week behind those of November. Peas sown in the
winter months in cold wet soils, may have coarse sand
dug in the drills, to preserve them from rotting, and
otherwise help them ; some also may be strewed over
them.

To have a full succession, peas may be sown (if
room) every three weeks in spring, and every fort-
night in summer ; and continued till the middle of
July, when if some hotspurs are sown in a very shel-
tered and sunny situation, they may answer.

The late, and large sorts of peas, as the marrow*
fat; Moratto, American) &c. should be first spwp

OF ESCULENTS. -SECT. XV\

towards the end of February, and not sooner, lest
they rot.

w The dwarf marrowfats may belaid in the drills
half an inch asunder, the large marrowfats three
quarters, the Moratto an inch, and the American
two inches, and each sort covered two inches. The
Leadmaris dwarf pea, for its small size, is admired
at genteel tables, and is sweet #nd fruitful ; but ra-
ther longer in coming in than the usual late sorts :
It escapes the mildew better than other peas, and
therefore is proper for the latest crops in open
ground. It requires sticks only from two to three
feet high, and may be sown thicker than any other
pea, and till Midsummer. On the same day that
'hotspurs are sown, put in a crop of any of these late
peas, and they wall come in proper succession ; f. e.
ten days or a fortnight after.

To save seed-peas, let none of the crop be ga-
thered for eating, except late formed ones ; which
had better not be left among the rest, for the reason
given in the article of kidney-bean.

Peas will transplant, and therefore broken rows
may be made up, only chuse (if possible) mild and
moist weather for the work in March, and shade
them with a little straw, until they have taken root.
If the autumn sown crops were cut off, peas may be
sown under hand-glasses in January or February,
and thus forwarded, planting them out when they
have been about a fortnight above ground.

Watering peas in a dry time answers well, and
especially when in flower and fruiting. To receive
the water, let ridges be drawn towards the earthing
up, forming a gutter on each side the sticks.

If slugs, or other insects, attack young peas, strew
spme lime, fresh slacked, or soot, along the sides of
the rows, so as not to touch the plants, after which
give them a watering, and repeat it a day or two.

SECT. XV. OF ESCULENTS, £49

If the peas are still infested, make another applica-
tion.

Mice must be guarded against as to autumn and
winter sown peas, by immediately setting traps for
them, of which the common blpck ones will be
found best, one at about every two yards, with fresh
baits every two or three days well set.

Peas do not like dung, and will be more fruitful
in a moderate soil than a rich one, except the roun-
civals, of which we have a zvhite, green, grey, and
blue sort.

Stopping peas (i. e. cropping the leading shoot)
has been practised by some gardeners, to promote
fruitfulness and maturity : this is a reasonable ma-
noeuvre, but only relates to the early crop.

POT A TOE is found to be the most useful root that
is cultivated : as a substitute for bread, it is most
properly and profitably eat whole by breaking.

The potatoe raised from seed changes the sorts.
Some are denominated meally, others waxy ; i. e.
are either of a loose, or a firm contexture. They are
distinguished again as to shape, into round, oval, and
clustered.

Potatoes will grow in any soil, but best in one that
is light, yet cool and good, especially a fresh one.
Season, 'as, well as soil, makes a difference in th.eic
goodness, as does the way of boiling them in eating,
on which the quality of the water has some effect, as
indeed it has on all vegetables, and that is the best
water in which they are boiled quickest. The white,
potatoes are generally preferred, but some of the red
kinds are very good ; and the old rough red from Lan-
cashire was one of the best ever cultivated. The
kidney (oval) shaped sorts are most generally ap-
proved, as boiling or roasting more equally through ;
and among these, the red nosed kidney (a white po-
tatoe with a tinged eye) is a great favourite ; but

2St> OF ESCULEKT.5, S£CT. XV.

many good sorts there are: the^ most productive is
the ox -noble.

The coarse, kinds of potatoes are given to hogs ;
but whether even for them, quality ought not to be
preferred to quantity, should be considered. The
clustered American potatoe is reckoned excellent for
cattle, yielding great increase ; but the goodness of
a. potatoe as./00</, is to be estimated by the quantity
ofjlour it produces. The 'early, potatoes are small,
and by common culture are produced in June, when .
soon after their tops change yellow, which betokens
maturity : they will keep better in the ground (it
being summer) than if taken up.

The cultivation of potatoes is various, as experi-
ment and opinions have led : It would be too much
here to take particular notice of each method ; and
to say every thing that might be advanced on this
subject.

l?or sets, or cuttings, prefer^ middle sized, well
shaped potatoes,' and let each piece have one good
eye in its middle, or at the most two. They should
be set in rows, eighteen inches asunder in a poor soil, f
twenty-one in a middling, and two feet in a rich one, j
In the former, the sets may be six or seven inches
apart, and in the latter eight or nine : the American
potatoe should however have more room each way.
In a light soil, plant them five or six inches deep, j
and in a heavy one only three or four. When planted '
deep, they wiirnot need earthing up above once, but
when shallow, two or three times. In a light soil,
they may be put in with a blunt dibble, but in a
heavy one should be laid in trenches • and if the
trenches of a strong soil were dug widely deep, and
first filled with long' dung, old thatch, or short straw,
laying on it the sets, it would be a great advantage ;
covering them up in ridges, and drawing mould to
them as they seltle. Cold moist ground should be

SECT. XV. OF ESCULENTS. 251

divided into beds of two or three rows each, with sunk
alleys between ; and as in such a soil the sets should
not be above three inches deep, the sinking of the
alleys may be made by earthing the rows up from
time to time. In a heavy soil make the rows rather
wider than in a light one, that there be a due quantity
of surface mould for earthing.

Early potatoes are procured several ways. On a
hot-bed, some may be planted towards the end of
February, or under hand-glasses^ in a warm border,
or even without. There are early sorts on purpose
for this culture, called mules, as they do not bear seed.
These potatoes being small, may be planted whole,
or rather cut in halves, paring off the eyes at the
crown where they are thick, as it never answers to
have many shoots come from a set; whole ones
should be planted a foot asunder, and halves at eight
inches.

Look over the stock of early potatoes, and plant
those first carefully in trenches that have rooted
shoots, for they will produce the first fruit, especi-
ally if short and brushy. Do not expose them so
long to the air as to get withered. When up in hot'
beds, or under hand-glasses, let them have plenty of
air ; and in open ground be protected from frost by
timely earthing up, and occasional covering with
peas haulm, or straw, which must not be kept on,
but upon necessity. 4-S these early potatoes are on
a warm border, a little water in a dry time will for-
ward them, and increase their size. In default of
the true early potatoe, sets having short and strong
shoots of any other sort may be treated as above ;
but they will not be so good, though larger.

From Mid-March to Mid- April is the properest
time, (earlier or later as the soil is dry or moist)
to plant for the principal crop, though May, or even,
June, generally produce a fair increase. The root$

OF ESCULENTS. SECT. XV.

from late crops should not be used for early planting,
as they are more liable to the curl: Potatoes grow-
ing sickly in a wet soil, are also subject to this de-
fect. This root being of superficial growth, should
be regularly weeded, as long as they can be walked
among without treading on.

Ground, designed for &jield crop, should be twice
ploughed, and the first time it should be some weeks
before the setting, and if a light fresh soil, quality
and quantity will be superior.

In the potatoe comities, they change their sorts
every third or fourth year ; procuring fresh kinds
from places farther North, as a means to avoid the
curl, and they admonish not to be too ea'rly in
planting.

Seedling potatoes are procured by saving the first
thorough ripe pods, (called apples) and either pre-
serving them in very dry sand till spring, or imme-
diately separating them from the pulp, put the seed
up quite dry in papers, and occasionally look it over
to keep it so. In March, or April, sow the seed
half an inch deep, in alight soil, in drills a foot or
fifteen inches asunder, and thin the plants to six
inches. Earth them up as they grow. Dig them as
soon as the haulm dies, and carefully preserving them
from frost, they will be fit to plant the next spring
for table use.

That potatoes are very susceptible of frost, is well
known ; but it is often not sufficiently guarded against
in time. Let them be brought in clean and dry as
possible. If not kept in a warm cellar, they may be
laid in a room, having some straw at bottom, and
when in prospect of frost entering the house, they
should be covered with straw a foot thick.

Pying (as it is called in some places) is a good
method of preserving potatoes in winter. They are
piled on the surface of the ground, in a ridged form,,

SECT. XV. OF ESCULENTS. $53

of a width and length at pleasure, according to the
quantity, bat commonly about five or six feet wide.
This is done by digging a spit of earth, and laying
it round the edge, a foot wide (if turf the better) fill-
ing the space up with straw, and then laying on a
course of potatoes, dig earth from the outside, and
lay upon the first earth. Put straw a few inches
along the inside edge, then put in more potatoes,
and so on, keeping a good coat of straw all the way
up between the potatoes and the mould, which should
be about six inches thick all over; beat it close to-
gether, and the form it lies in, with the trench all
round, will preserve the potatoes dry ; and the
sharpest frost will hardly affect them ; in a severe
time of which, the whole may be covered thickly with
straw. In the spring, look over the stock, and
break off the shoots of those designed for the table,
and repeat this business to preserve .the potatoes the
longer good.

PUMPIONS being tender, are raised on a moderate
hot-bed, in April, or May, according to the time de-
sired to have fruit at. After the seed has been up a
few days, prick the plants out at four or five inches,
or rather put them in small pots, one in each. When
a month old, they may be planted out about four
yards asunder, one of the large sorts, or two of the
small ones, on a hole of two or three barrows full of
hot dung, and about ten inches thick of mould.
Cover with hand-glasses, or garden-pots, or Jaoops
and mats, on nights, till Mid- June. On such a hole
of hot dung they may be sown in May, under a hand-
glass, and there remain to fruit. Pumpions will do
very well sometimes (in favourable seasons and situ-
ations) sown in May, on cold ground. The seed
should be covered near an inch, .and the plants kept
earthing up as they grow. When they have shot
five or six feet, peg down the runners a little way in

254 OF ESCULENTS SECT. XV,

the ground, and these will strike root. Water well
in dry and warm weather. The orange gourd looks
very pretty when trained to a pole spirally, or to a
wall.

RADISH is of two kinds, the spindle rooted, and
the round, of each of which there is a variety. Of
the former we have the early purple, and the early
pink short topped, and late large topped ones of both
sorts. Of the round there are the white, black, and
red turnep radishes. The white (of which there is
*a small and large sort) is mostly cultivated, but yet
the others are good ; the black grows large, and the
red small. The purple sorts, and the small white
and red, eat the coolest. The order of coming in
from the time of sowing is, the purple, and the pink
spindle sorts, and the turnep, red, white, and black :
The latter sort is hardy for winter use, but is the
coarsest.

For the first crop, the early purple short top may
be sown the latter ends of October, November, and
f)ecembei\ (chiefly the last month) in a warm bor-
der, and have a change of surviving the winter, if a
little protected in frosts by stout sticks, about two
inches high, stuck sloping in the ground, to support
mats ; or by laying peas haulm, or wheat straw,
lightly over them, which may be an inch or two thick,
as the frost is ; but no longer than it lasts should the
covering be on. The first open weather in January
and February sow again, and in these months^ and
the preceding one, cover the sowing over with some
straw, and it will help to fetch the seeds up, and
preserve them from being thrown out of the ground
by frost, as also from birds. As soon as they begin
to appear, let them be uncovered, to harden them to
the air, if the weather is not too severe. Thin these
radishes to an inch and a half, or two inches asunder,
though some gardeners let them grow thicker. Ra-

St-CT. XV. OF ESCULENTS^ 555

dishes sown in any of the cold months (being on bor-
ders) lay the ground a little sloping to the sun.

A hot-bed is frequently used for radishes about
Christmas, or in January and February, which must
not be too warm a one, as it would hurry the seed
up, and make them grow all top, and come to no-
thing. Two feet thick of dung is sufficient, on which
six or seven inches of light well broke or sifted mould
should be put on, and the seed immediately sown on
the surface, (rather thick) and covered half an inch,
giving the whole a gentle pressure ; for seeds will
grovr better when the earth is somewhat firm about
them. Thin the plants to an inch asunder, before
they begin to draw one another up weak; if wider
it were better, but room in a hot- bed is precious.
Hot bed radishes, under glass, must have plenty of
air, for though covered, are not to be shut down
close on nights, except severity of frost demand it.
In lieu of frames, a hot-bed of radishes may, in Fe-
bruary, or after, be hooped, and covered with mats
on nights, and in bad weather; and in this way, in-
deed, they generally succeed best. Line forward
beds, when the heat declines, that they may proceed
in growth without check.

Repeat sowing of radishes every three weeks in
spring, and fortnight in summer ; and let it be in
cooler ground as the season advances. In dry wea-
ther water them. Allow three inches distance to
those sown after February, or rather more for the
large topped sorts. The turnep kind may now be
sown ; yet their best season is to come in after Mi-
chaelmas ; the small white and red for summer, and
the large white and black for autumn and winter,
•\vhich will often continue good till spring : In pros-
pect of severe weather, some of these may be taken
up, and preserved in sand, having first cut the tops
off short.

256 6F ESCULENTS. SECT. XV.

.

Thin the small turnep sorts to four inches distance,
and the large to six. Sow the two last sorts in June,
July, and August. In August, or September, sow
also some of the other sorts of radishes, for winter
use. Turnep radishes are rarely sown on hot-beds ;
but the small red sort will be found an agreeable
early crop, and may stand as thick as the spindle
footed kinds.

The ground should be well dug for radishes, espe-
cially the long-rooted sorts, and the seed carefully
covered a full half inch, leaving none on the top (if
possible) to lure birds, which frequently do much
mischief to the crop. It is a troublesome mode, but
radishes when drilled are safer, and being thinned in
the rows by hand they come fine. Make the drills
for the tap rooted sorts, from two to three inches
asunder, but for the round wider. It is also a good
method to sow radishes on beds four feet wide, and
the mould being made fine on the top, beat the
seeds in with the teeth of a wooden rake till none
appear, and then lightly draw the back of the rake
over, to fill up the holes ; or, having sown the bed,
cover with mould from the alleys, or earth previously
drawn aside.

A sprinkle of radish seed may be frequently sown
among other crops, as broad- cast spinach ; and the
ground at spring that is designed for cauliflowers,
may very properly be sown with them, just before
the plants are to be set out, or between rows of
beans.

Draw the roots for use in a regular thinning way,
and those that are left will become the larger for it. ~

Radishes are sometimes sown thick for eating while
very young in the seed leaf] with other sallading.

SALSAFY, though but little cultivated, is a useful-
vegetable. Its young shoots are eat as asparagus in
spring, and its long white roots in autumn and w4nterr

SECT. XV. OF ESCULENTS* 25

, .,:, • ..r '

as carrots, some of whicrh are taken up, and pre-
served in sand for winter use. Those left in the1
ground may be dug up occasionally, or left to pro-
duce shoots for spring, or mav stand for seed. Sow
them early in March, in drills ten inches asunder,
and thin the plants to six. Let the soil be cool and
good, and two feet in depth, if possible* In very
dry weather water deep.

SAVOY is a cabbage, peculiarly adapted for late
autumn, winter, and spring use, as frost improves it,
making it tenderer and sweeter than before. The
sorts are green and yellow ; the former mostly culti-
vated, as it looks best at table.

If savoys are desiredforwaivl, sow a little in a warm v
border in February, or under a hand-glass; but a
sowing in March, and another in April, in an open
situation, is sufficient. Thin the seed-bed in time,
that the plants may be straight and robust ; and when
about three inches high, prick them out at five or six
inches distance, where let them grow to a proper
size, (as in June or July] to plant out at two feet
apart, or a little more, if in a rich soil. Chuse moist
weather for this work, if possible, and give some wa-
ter. Earth them up as they grow, fixing them well.

Sprouts of savoys are delicate eating spring greens,
and therefore if the ground is wanted where the stalks
grow, they may be taken up, and laid in a spare
place, deep in a trench for the purpose.

SCORZONERA is a carrot- rooted esculent, and
therefore requires a deep, and should have a cool
soiL Cultivate it as salsqfy,. only let the drills be
two or three inches wider, and the plants left an
inch or two more asunder.

SEA-CALE, or cabbage, is a vegetable not gene-
rally known, except in Essex, ^Sussex, and the IVest
of England, but it is much liked by many/ and 'as
an early spring production is valuable.

w

OF ESCULEX'IS. SECT. XV..

Its natural place of growth being the sea-beach, it
is evident that a sandy soil will suit it best. Some
people cultivate it in almost all sand, which, if it is
the natural soil of the place, is proper, as such sur-
face sand is endowed with good vegetable princi-
ples ; but when a soil is made, it should be one half
sharp, or drift sand, and the other half any light rich
mould, which may be a little gravelly, or mixed with
sea-coal ashes. Sow, or plant, either in autumn, or
spring.

It is a root that lasts many years, and therefore
should at first be properly planted and managed ;
either in beds of it, like those of asparagus, (the
which, it precedes for use) of four feet and a half
wide, and two feet alleys between ; or in single rows
of long trenches, which is the better way. They are
best raised from seed, though often from offsets, or
pkces of the roots, having two or three eyes on
them.

The beds must be trenched, and of a dry loose
earth, (as said) to two, or two and a half feet deep ;
and if there is any suspicion of wet ever hanging at
bottom, lay a good course of rough gravel or stones
there. The plants should be near a foot asunder,
kept five or six inches below the surface, that they
may grow through a body of earth to blanch the
sprouts ; and they are to be cut up four or five
inches deep, soon after they appear above ground.
In summer, the ribs of the large leaves may be
peeled, and eat as asparagus. They will want
earthing up from the alleys every year, to keep them
at the above depth ; for which purpose, there should
be proper earth in them. It is evidently best to
now, or plant, low enough at first, to be prepared for
future earthing up ; but not too low, however, if
there is a clay bottom. Sets may be planted at first
only three inches deep from their crowns, and earthed

SECT. XV. OF ESCULENTS. 259

up to five or six as they rise in order to blanch them :
Some do this with fine sifted coal ashes, and bthers
with the leaves of trees laid close round. Little
should be cut the first year, but the second do it
freely.

The seed should be dropped three or four- in a
hole, half an inch deep, and thinned to one plant,
earthing up a little as they proceed in growth. When
the leaves decay in autumn, earth the plants over an
inch or two, with m'ould from the alleys. In the
spring, loosen the earth carefully with the asparagus
fork, and at autumn, earth up as before. The fol-
lowing spring, fork again in time, and about April
there will be plenty to cut; which, if suffered to
grow large first, will eat tough and strong. For
seed, reserve a stool that has not been cut: The
flower is white, and so pretty as to be sown some-
times merely for ornament.

SHALOT is a perennial sort of onion, for which it
is>often substituted, and in some cases preferred, as
being more agreeable to the palate and stomach by
its rich and yet mild flavour.

The shalot is propagated by planting its offsets
late in autumn, in a dry soil, or in spring, if a moist
one. The latter time is generally adopted as safest ;
but autumn sets produce the finest bulbs. Plant two
or three inches deep, and four or five asunder, .in
rows, six inches distance from one another. When
the leaves \\ ither, dig them up, lest they decay in
the ground, as they are apt to do if much wet
falls.

SKIRRET (now little known) is a very wholesome
root, propagated by seed, as scorzoneray and some-
times by offsets of the old roots in spring, planted an
inch deep or more over their crowns.

SPINACH is of two kinds, denominated from the
seed, -as prickly and smooth ; the former is sown in

s 2

£60 OF ESCULEXTS. SECT. XV.

autumn, i. e. at the end of July, and about Mid-
August, to gather in winter, and the beginning of
spring, being very hardy ; and the latter is sown early
in the new year for after use, though the prickly sort
does very well also for the same purpose. The
smooth is rather tender, but it grows larger, with
thicker leaves, and is therefore seldom sown other-
wise than at broad cast ; but the prickly is frequently
drilled, as between rows of other vegetables. Spi-
nach may be sown on pieces of ground, where it is
intended to plant cauliflowers, cabbages, or beans, or
horse-raddish, by dibble.

At broad cast trample the seed in with the feet,
rather wide, that there may be a sufficient quantity
of mould to rake down over the seed. Hoe the
prickly sort to four inches apart, and the smooth to
six or more, in a rich soil. If in drills sow also thin,
and cover an inch deep. Some people thin the
plants in drills to three inches distance, and draw
every other for use, when those left will grow large,
and this may be proper with the smooth spinach ;
but it is more common not to thin the rows, and to
gather, by cutting the leaves down low, when more
will spring up again. It is a good way to sow spi-
nach in beds of four feet, with alleys, that it may be
the more conveniently attended and gathered, with-
out^ trampling the ground: — Gardening in this way
of narrow beds will, in many cases, be found very
agreeable.

To have a full succession of spinach, sow in Ja-
nuary and February, and afterwards again in three
weeks, and then every fortnight, or even oftener, for
it presently runs to seed in summer, especially if the
plants grow close. Some people are fond of drilled
spinach, as it is quickly gathered, and fancied to eat
the better ; but broad cast is commonly reckoned
the best way, and gathering the outside leaves, the

ECT. XV. OF ESCULENTS. 26 1

plant shoots again repeatedly : In spring, however,
when the ground is wanted, and the plants are dis-
posed to run, they should be drawn. Spinach will
transplant in autumn, and thus produce the best
seed.

TURNEP we have a variety^of sorts of, for table
use, differing in colour and shape, earliness and fla-
vour. The most common are the white sorts ; but
the yellow and red are worthy of trial, particularly
the former. The small early white Dutch is that
mostly cultivated in gardens, at least for the first
crops, though the early stone sort is a very good
root.

Turneps are sown from March to September, but
in June and July for the principal crops. I«ate
crops may be sown till Mid-August, but they will
produce but little bottoms. Those sown in March
will be apt to run for seed before they have formed
much bottom, and must be watched to draw them in
time. The turnep is so favourite a vegetable, that
hot-beds are sometimes made in February and March
to forward it, though thus cultivated, it can attain
but to a very small size. A bed of this sort must be
slight, and have a great deal of air from the very
sowing. A moderately ligBt soil, with little dung,
suits turneps best, and they should always have open
ground that is well broke. Mix the seed with a
little fine earth, sow thin, trample close, and rake
lightly : It is a way with some, to sow one third old
seed with the new, for the greater certainty of a crop,
the former sometimes succeeding when the latter
misses. Do not neglect to hoe the crops in time,
the early ones to five or six inches, and the late ones
to eight or nine, though some large sorts should have
more distance allowed.

When the fly is observed to attack young turneps,
it will be proper to stir the ground, and sow again

262 OF HERBS, &C. SECT. XVI.

immediately, or to chuse another spot for the pur-
pose.

The NAVEW ( which is much admired by some,
and said to be the most nourishing sort of turnep)
should be repeatedly >own from March to August,
and best in a moist soil ; but being a small slender
root, need not stand wider than five or six inches.

The CABBAGE TURNER is of two kinds : one
apples above ground, and the other in it. This vege-
table is sometimes used young for the table ; but it is
chiefly cultivated for cattle. Sow it in May, or June,
for autumn use, or in June, or July, for the spring :
They are very hardy. If sown in a garden, and
pricked out, they may be transplanted in fields, the
first moist weather after a crop of oats, or barley, at
half a yard in a poor, or near two feet in a rich soil ;
and if the ground is foul, this culture gives a fine
opportunity to clean it, by repeated hoeing.

SECTION XVI.

OF HERBS, &C.

ANGELICA is cultivated for the large ribs of its
leaves, cut in May, or June, to make a candied pre-
serve ; and it is also a medicinal plant, in stalk, leaf,
root, and seed. Sow as soon as the seed is ripe, for
in spring it does not come well. Put the plants out
when a few inches high, at two feet asunder. It is
biennial ; but if seed is not wanted, cut the stems
down in May, and the plant will put out side shoots ;

SECT. XVI. OF HERBS, &C. 263

and by this practice every year, it may be continued
long in the same place. A moist situation suits it best,
so that some plant it by ditches, or ponds.

BALM is either plain or variegated ; but the
former only is cultivated as a medicinal herb. It is
propagated by parting the root, either in autumn, or
spring, but rather the latter. Slip off short pieces
with foots, and plant them a foot, or fifteen inches
asunder, giving a little water. The variegated is for
the flower-garden.

The balm that is gathered for drying ought to be
cut just as it gets into flower ; as for this purpose all
herbs should, being then in the highest perfection ;
and it should be done as soon as the dew is off, for if
left till afternoon, in a full sun, the plant is exhausted
of its juices : Pick off all decayed leaves. Dry it
in an airy shady place till fit to tie in small bundles,
which must be stored by hanging up in a dry airy
room, about six inches from one another, till per-
fectly dry, when lay them in a drawer in a dry room,
pressed close, and cover vyith paper.

Balm, and most perennial herbs, should be fresh
planted in beds every third or fourth year ; and each
year, in autumn, or spring, have the ground stirred
about them, and dressed with some fresh earth, or a
little well consumed manure, the plants being previ-
ously cut down, and ground weeded.

BASIL is a pretty annual, of which we have two
sorts, the large and the bush : (each having a variety)
both are used as pot-kerbs, but chiefly the former.
Sometimes also this herb (a jfe> of the young leaves)
is used in sallads, and occasionally in medicine. The
large grows about a foot high, and the bush but a few
inches. They are both sweet, but the bush basil most
so. It has a delicate round form, and so is cultivated
as ornamental, though its flower is nothing. Both
sorts are usually sown on a gentle hot-bed, in March,

264 OF HERBS, &C. SECT. XVI.

or April, and may be pricked out in small pots, but
will hardly endure the open air till June. The large
is the hardiest, and will come up on cold ground, but
come backward. They like a rich soil, and the bush
sort does best in one having half dung in it well
mixt.

BORAGE is a cordial herb, that has its varieties,
blue, red, and white flowered, and one with variegated
leaves ; but the former is that commonly cultivated
as a pot-herb, and its flowers for sallads, and cool
tankards. To have it young all the year, let it be
sown in spring, summer, and autumn, either in
drills, or broad ca§t. Thin the plants to nine inches
Asunder. It sows itself in autumn, and likes a dry
sojj.

BUGLOS.S possesses the like cordial virtues with
borage, so that the one may be substituted for the
Other. Culture is the same as borage.

BURNET is a warm perennial sallad herb, used also
in cool tankards, propagated in spripg, or autumn,
either by seed, or parting its roots, and planting them
a foot asunder. Keep it frequently cut down, that it
may constantly furnish young shoots for use.

CAMOMILE is a useful medicinal herb, of which
we have single and double flowering kinds ; and of
the latter, a sort with very full flowers. It is propa-
gated by parting its roots, or by its runners, in
jharch, or April, setting them nine or ten inches
asunder. Gather the flowers in their prime, (as
those of all plants should be) before they begin to
fade ; dry them thinly in the shade for a few days,
and preserve them from damp in paper bags. The
single sort has the strongest flavour, though for quan-
tity, the double is mostly cultivated : Camomile likes
a poor soil.

CAPSICUM is sometimes raised for its young pods
Jo pickle ; being sown on a gentle hot-bed, and brought

SECT. XVI. OF HERBS, &C. 265

forward on another till June, when (about the middle)
they may be planted in open ground, about half a
yard asunder. See Lists of annuals.

CARAWAY seeds are chiefly medicinal ; but being
used in making cakes, a few plants may have place in
the garden. Sow in spring, in a moist rich soil, and
thin them six inches square.

CARDUUS BENEDICTUS, is simply medicinal, and
5s of good repute. Sow it in autumn, either in drills,
or broad cast, and thin the plants to nine inches dis-
tance. It is annual, and must be cut down to the
root for drying, just as it gets into flower.

CHERVIL is used in sallads, and is also a pot-
herb that was formerly in much estimation for its
warm taste. Sow it thick in autumn for winter and
spring use. When sown in spring, or summer, it
runs quickly to flower. The seed must be slightly
covered, and the leaves gathered for use young, cut-
ting it down like parsley, (which it resembles) it
springs again.

GIVES are small bulbs, and a sort of mild peren-
nial onion, the leaves of which are cut for sallads,
and culinary purposes, at the spring, before onions
come in. As the bulb* increase fast, some of them
may be slipped from the rooted clusters, and used as
onions. They are propagated in autumn, or early in
the spring, by planting five or six of the little bulbs
in a hole, an inch deep, and eight asunder. A bed
of them lasts three or four years, when plant again.

CLARY (the common garden) ranks, as a medici-
nal herb, but it is used also in soups, and is very
odorous ; but unpleasantly so to many. Sow it in
spring, and when two or three inches high, prick the
plants out fifteen or eighteen inches or thin them to
this, distance. Its flowers are used for a made-wine :
It is biennial. There are sorts of this plant culti-
vated for ornament. See List of biennials.
6

266 OF HERBS, &C. SECT. xH

CORIANDER is occasionally used in soups and sal-
lads, for its peculiar high flavour; but mostly for
medicinal purposes, from its seeds. For culinary uses,
sow it in April, and once a month, or oftener, after-
wards, in drills six inches asunder, to have a suc-
cession of young plants; and make a principal sow-
ing in August, or September, on a warm border.
Cover some of it with a frame, or it will die in hard
weather. If wanted early in the year, sow one hot-
bed, in February or March ; or in this month under
hand-glasses.

CORN S ALL AD (or lamb's lettuce) is a small,
warm, wholesome, hardy herb, -and for winter and
spring use should be sown in August and September,
and again in February and March, and once a
month all summer, for it is to be eat quite young.
They are to grow about three inches distance: It
used to be much in request, though now rarely cul-
tivated.

CRESS, there are three sorts o£ plain, curled, arrd
broad leaved ; the former of which is much used as
a sallad herb, with mustard, rape, raddish, &c. The
curled and broad leaved sorts should be thinned to
half an inch asunder ; but the plain is to be sown
thick. The curled makes a pretty garnish. In the
cold months, this sallad herb (as others) is sown on
gentle hot-beds, giving plenty of air ; and as the
spring gets up, on warm borders, or under hand-
glasses. The London market gardeners sow it just
within the glasses which cover their cauliflower plants,
&c. In summer it should be sown in shady cool
ground, and daily watered ; or it may be sown in
the most sunny situation, if hooped over, and shaded
with a mat. Break the moulds/foe, and draw level
shallow drills, and cover only a quarter of an inch.
It may, however, be sown at broad cast, the ground
being first raked very smooth, and the seed just co-

SECT. XVI. OF HEHES, &C. 267

vered \vith fine mould. Let it be sown (on an ave-
rage) one a week, and cut young* If that which is
sown in open ground, at an early season, be covered
with a mat, it will forward the germination. The
American cress is much like water cress, only more
bitter. It answers well as a winter and early spring
Ballad, being sown in August, at broad cast, or rather
thin in drills. The plants being cut, or the outside
leaves pulled off, shoot again.

DILL is a very stomachic herb, whose leaves and
seed vessels are put among vegetable pickles, parti-
cularly cucumbers, to heighten their relish. The
stem, leaves, and seed, are also used in medicine ; the
leaves sometimes in soups and sauces. Sow it either
in autumn, or early in spring, at broad cast, or in
drills, a foot asunder, thinning the plants to about
eight inches. It sheds seed freely, and comes up at
spring.

FENNEL (the common sort) is an hardy perennial
herb, of the same family as dill, the uses of which
are well known. It may be sown either in spring,
or autumn, and the plants ought to be kept near half
a yard asunder ; or it may be propagated by slips
from the roots of old plants. It should be constantly
cut down to prevent seeding, which would cover the
ground in a troublesome degree. Sweet fennel is an
annual, cultivated for its seeds in medicine.

FINOCHIQ is a sort of dwarf fennel, very aroma-
tic ; the bottom of the thick stalks of which, being
earthed up about three weeks, when nearly full
grown,' five or six inches to blanch, are used in soups
and sallads, or sliced, and eat alone with oil, vinegar,
&c. Sow it thick in March, in drills, about two
feet asunder, and repeat the sowing every month till
Mid- July, as it presently runs to seed. Thin the
plants to seven or eight inches. It likes a dry soil
In a warm situation some may be sown in February ;

OF HERBS, &C. SECT. XVI.

the last crop in June must be in a like situation,
and will not be ready before winter ; at the approach
of which, protect it from frost with dry litter.

HYSSOP is used sometimes in a culinary, but more
in a medicinal way. There are white, blue, and red
flowered sorts of it : but the blue spiked is that com-
monly cultivated. The parts for culinary purposes
are the leaves, and young shoots ; and the flower
spikes are cut, dried, and preserved for medical uses,
for which it is an excellent herb. As hyssop is a
woody evergreen perennial, growing about a foot
high, it may be planted for an edging of the kitchen
garden. It is propagated by seed, and rooted slips,
in March, by cuttings in April, or young slips in
June, or July. A poor dry, or sandy soil, best suits
it The plants may be nine inches or a foot asunder
as an edging, but should be near two feet from one
another in a medicinal bed, as they soon get large,
and stand years.

LAVENDER (the common) is, for its pleasant aro-
matic scent, found in most gardens, and makes a
neat perennial edging in large ones. It is propagated
by cuttings, or young slips, in April and May, set a
few inches asunder, in a shady situation, and good
soil ; and when rooted, planted out where they are
to grow. The slips should be occasionally watered,
and as a mat would cover a great many, might be
shaded when the sun is hot upon them, for a fort-
night or three weeks, to forward their rooting. But
though raised in a good soil lavender likes a poor and
dry one best to abide in. Set the plants at a foot dis-
tance from one another. In a rich moist soil, they
are apt to die in the winter ; but in a dry hungry one,
they rarely do. All plants the more luxuriantly they
grow, the more likely they are to be cut off by severe
weather.

MARIGOLD has its varieties, and some sorts bear

SECT. XVI. OF HERBS, &C. 269

very fine double flowers ; but the common single kind
is best as a pot-herb, being most aromatic. All sin-
gle flowers are preferable to the double of the same
kind for medicinal, or other uses, as producing a
stronger essence. Sow marigolds in spring, and let
plants of the single sort stand a foot asunder, but tbe
large double wider. They will grow in any soil, and
are in flower most part of the year. The time of
gathering them for drying is towards autumn, when
they are most plentiful. Take care that they are not
put up in their paper bags raw, or damp, and keep
them in a very dry place. This flower is a valuable
ingredient in broths and soups, however it may have
got into disuse. It sows itself abundantly, and will
bear transplanting about May, so that there will sel-
dom be occasion to sow.

MARJORAM is distinguished iutopot, winter, and
knotted sorts ; the two former perennial, and the last
annual. They are all occasionally used for culinary
purposes, but the knotted is chiefly cultivated as a
sweet companion of our flowers. Propagate the pe-
rennial sorts in autumn, or spring by parting its
roots, and the annual kind by sowing in March, or
April, on a warm border, and light dry soil. The
annual sort should stand at six inches distance, and
the perennial at nine or ten. The knotted sort, if
planted in pots, and housed, may be preserved in the
winter, cutting down the flower stems. This kind is
sometimes used for medicinal purposes, and should
be drawn up by the roots, for drying in the shade ; or
at least where there is but little sun.

MINT is a salutary herb, of which we have two
sorts, the spear and the pepper ; the former for culi-
nary, and the latter for medicinal purposes. There
is a little variety in the spear, as broader and narrower
leaved, and also variegated sorts, white and yellow,
which are considered only as ornamental.

£70 OF HERBS, &C. SECT, XVI.

Mint is propagated by pieces of its roots, or
rooted slips, in the spring, set an inch or two deep,
and eight asunder, on beds four feet wide. Cuttings
will quickly strike root in any of the summer months.
It delights in a moist soil, and new plantations of it
(particularly cuttings) should be well watered in a
dry time. Mint is to be had young all winter, and
early in spring, by means of a gentle hot -bed, on
which it should be set pretty close; and for a suc-
cession, make a new plantation every three weeks, as
the roots will perish in about that time. Or it may
be conveniently planted in pots, and placed in any
bed, and so shifted from one to another, if occasion.
Do not let this, or any other herb be badly dried, or
preserved, as is but too common a case. For present
use, gather only \heyoung leaves and shoots for any
purpose.

MUSTARD is much used as asallad herb, gathered
quite young, and the white is the garden sort, the
black being cultivated in fields for its seeds to make
fleur of. It is managed as cress, which see, p. 267.

NASTURTIUM, there is a greater and less, sort of,
both cultivated for their unripe berries to pickle, their
flowers for sallads and garnish, and as a garden orna-
ment ; but the large is that chiefly cultivated for cu-
linary purposes. Being climbers, they should have
something to lay hold of, as an arbour, or brush
wood, or nailed up with shreds to a wall. They are
of free growth, and flower abundantly for a long
time, even till the frost comes. Sow an inch deep,
in drills, in a light soil, and warm situation, in April
or sooner, if on a gentle heat, to forward them. It
is best to sow in a few small pots, holding each two
plants, from which they may be turned out whole
(before they get too big) in May ; though sometimes
they transplant without earth, about the roots, very
well. Give them plenty of air while under cover,

SECT. XVI. OF HERBS, &C. 271

or they will be drawn up weak. A fresh, but poor,
soil, is better than a rich one, which makes them too
rampant, and less fruitful. See List 8, Sect. 19, and
Observation,

The double nasturtium is considered merely as a
fine flower, but they are a beautiful garnish. It
grows from cuttings : Plant these in pots, in June,
and place them on a little heat, and they will soon
take root. Or if the pots are plunged in a warm
border, and covered close with a handglass, it may
be sufficient. Gently water them when the mould
gets quite dry. This plant is tender, in winter pro-
perly requiring a stove ; yet it flourishes all summer
in open ground, flowering most in a poor soil. A
greenhouse may keep it; but a South window in a
warm parlour does better.

PAUSLEY we have a. plain and & curled kind of;
and though the former is mostly used, yet the latter
is equally proper as a pot-herb, and it makes a good
garnish : hemlock cannot, be mistaken for it, as for
the plain sometimes it has been. There is more of
essence in the plain than the curled ; but this if not
Suffered to seed, will"stand three years. To produce
the curled sort very fine, (as for garnish) the plants
should be thinned to three or four inches asunder ;
and it may be sown either at broad cast, or in drills
about nine inches asunder, as the common sort is.
Parsley is sometimes sown early in autumn, to hfrve
it young for the winter and spring; but the usual
time is early in spring, and one sowing may be suffi-
cient for the year: Cut it down often to get rid of
the old leaves and young will spring up. Cutting
down parsley should never be omitted about the end
of September, that it may be had good through the
winter and spring. This herb will bear transplant-
ing. For Hamburgh parsley, see parsley in the last
section, p. 245.

#F HERBS, &C. SECT. XVI,

PENNY-ROYAL is a /Ktf and medical herb of the
mint spices. There is an upright and a trailing sort
of it; but the latter is that chiefly ubed: This is pro-
pagated by rooted branches, of which it atibrds
plenty, as it spreads fast ; and it will grow in the
summer months from slips, or cuttings. Set them a
foot asunder in spring or autumn, and in a strong
moist soil it will most flourish. If, however, it is
suffered to mat thick, it is apt to rot. As this herb
is often wanted in winter, let it have a somewhat
sheltered situation. If cut for preserving in winter,
the time of flowering must be observed, and it must
be very carefully dried, and kept, for it is apt to
mould.

PURSLANE is a low growing succulent herb, of a
cold and tender nature, used chiefly in summer sal-
lads, but sometimes for culinary purposes The
sorts are the green and golden, but the former is pre-
ferred, and is hardiest. This plant will not succeed
in the open ground till towards the end of May, and
then it must be sown on a warm border. In March
or April, it is raised on a gentle heat ; for which pur-
pose the lining of a hot-bed may do. Sow in drills
four inches' apart, cover a quarter of an inch, and
let the soil be light and rich. In dry weather, water
it twice or thrice a week, The end of the young
scoots only are used, and when cut down it springs
again. It is usual to sow it three or four times in
the summer, in cooler places, as the weather gets
sultry.

RAPE, or coleseed, is sown for a sallad herb, to be
eat while in the seed leaf:, with mustard and cress;
and is to be treated as they are : it is stomachic, and
some persons are fond of it when boiled.

RAMPION is a sallad and culinary root, in but lit-
tle request. Sow it thin in April and May, and

SECT. xvi. o£ HERBS, &c. 273

leave the plants at four or five inches distance, for
autumn and winter use; and draw it young.

ROCOMBOLE is a root much like garlick, produc-
ing small bulbs at head, as well as root: is chiefly
medicinal* The cloves may be planted in autumn or
spring, two inches deep, and four asunder. Treat
it as garlick, which see. It is sometimes used as a
mild substitute for garlick. The seeds are eatable
and to be used as well as the cloves.

ROSEMARY we have the varieties, plain, silver,
and gold striped. The plain is a useful medicinal
herb, which should be found in every garden* It is
propagated by suckers, layers, slips, or cuttings, in
the spring^ setting the two last where they have not
much sun ; and when rooted, towards autumn, or in
the following spring, allot the young plants a station
rather warm, and sheltered, as it is apt to suffer, or
die, in severe winters, especially the variegated.

RUE is a medical plant, propagated in spring, by
seed, slips, or cuttings. It stands many years, but
should be prevented seeding, and pruned down oc-
casionly, to keep it in a neat bushy trim, of mode-
rate height, and strong growth.

SAGE there are several sorts of, but the common
red is that used chiefly for culinary purposes, and the
green both for these, and medicinally for tea, &c*
There is a narrow leaved green sort, called tea sage,
or sage of virtue ; but the broad leaved green is
reckoned by some better, not being so heating, and
unpleasant to the taste. The variegated sorts of sagg
are only considered as ornaments in the flower gar-
den, or shrubbery. Sage is propagated by slips or
cuttings of the last year's shoots, in April, Mayi or
October, chusing those that are short and strong; or
of the young shoots in the early part of summer, set
in to an inch from the top, and about four inche*

T

£74 OF HERBS, &C. SECT. XT I.

distance, in some shady place. These, if they spin-
dle tall in the summer, should be pinched down (in
time) to about three inches, in order to form bushy
heads. They will be well rooted in August, when
they should be planted a foot asunder, in a sunny
s(nd sheltered situation, from the N. and E. that
they may stand severe winters, which they \\i\\ the
better do, if the soil is rather poor.

SAMPHIRE is by some greatly esteemed for a
pickl?, using its leaves, which are sometimes added
to sallads, arid occasionally used medicinally. It is
perennial, and propagated by parting its roots, or
by seed sown in April; is somewhat tender, likes a
eool situation, but yet prefers a sandy, or a gra-
velly soil : Let it have plenty of water. Some have
found it to do best in pots, set for the morning sun
only.

SAVORY we have a summer and a winter kind of;
the former is annual, and the latter perennial ; and
both are used as medicinal and culinary herbs, but
the summer sort is that mostly cultivated for medi-
cine. The annual is propagated from seed in March
or April) sown thin and shallow, in drills, eight or
nine inches asunder. The perennial is sometimes
propagated from seed, but more usually from rooted
.slips, or cuttings from the top, in spring, as also
from side slips. The annual sort should grow at six
inches distance in the drills, and the perennial be al-
lowed a foot. Summer savory, gathered for drying,
is best drawn up by the roots.

SMALL AGE is a sort of wild parsley, found in
moist places, and was formerly much cultivated in
gardens, and used in soups and sallads, and medicine,
as a warm herb. Sow it in spring as parsley.

SCURVY GRASS (the Dutch, or round leaved) is
sometimes cultivated in gardens for it* excellent medi-

SECT. XVIo Of HERBS, &C. 275

cinal properties. Sow it in autumn, or spring, but
best early in the former. Though it will grow in any
soil, it should have a moist one.

SORK.EL is an acid, perennial plant, much relished
by some as a sallad, often used as a pot-herb, and
sometimes as a medicinal one: Though found com-
mon enough in the fields, it is much improved by
garden culture. The round leaved sort, commonly
called the Roman, is reckoned the more grateful acid,
and encreases in the ground apace. Sorrel is gene-
rally propagated by parting its roots, either in spring
or autumn, and if propagated from seed, (which
produces the finest plants) it should be sown in
March. The plants of the common sorrel should
be six or eight inches asunder, and the other a foot,
or fifteen inches. Common sorrel likes a cool moist
soil, but the Roman a dry one. Cut it down at the
latter end of the year, and cover it over with a little
mould, first stirring the soil.

SUCCORY is a sallad, pot, and medicinal herb, but
not much cultivated* To be good, it must be well
blanched as endive, of which it is a wild sort. Sow
it in March for autumn and winter use,

TANSEY is a culinary and medicinal herb, of which,
besides the common, there are curled leaved, and
variegated sorts; but the former only is proper to be
used medicinally. It is perennial, and propagated
by rooted slips, in spring or autumn, set at eighteen
inches distance, in beds, four feet and a half widej
and will> grow in almost any soil or situation.

TARRAGON is a perennial pot and sallad herb,
which is much admired by some, for its peculiar high
warm flavour. It is propagated sometimes from
seed, but mostly by rooted, or other slips, set in
spring, or autumn, at six or eight inches distance,
and may be by cuttings in the summer months. The
shoots die down towards winter, but the roots art

T g

OF HERBS, &C. SECT. XVI.

hardy, and increase apace. If wanted in winter, it
may be dried as other herbs are, or forced as mint,
in order to have it green. When the stems begin to
run, cut them down, in order to produce young
shoots, for the tender tops only are to be used; and
that not too freely, as it is an herb of an heating
nature.

THYME is a. pot-herb, of which there are commonly
cultivated a broad and a narrow leaved sort, but the
former mostly. There is a sort called lemon thyme,
that is admired for its flavour, and another called
silver thyme, which, with the striped, are considered
rather as merely ornamental. It is best to raise the
common sorts from seed, though root branches, on
account of their trailing nature, may be usually had
from old plants. Slips will grow, if set in a light
rich soil, in a shady situation, or kept moist by wa-
tering. Loosening the earth under, and drawing it
up about old plants one year, will produce plenty of
rooted branches the next. The plants should grovr
at six or eight inches distance. If propagated from
seed9 let it be sown thin in Marcht and covered
lightly. Slips are best made in April. This herb
makes a neat edging, but it is a great impoverisher
of the ground. Keep it low.

TOMATUM, or love apples, we have red, ivliite, and
yellow fruited ; and of the red and yellow, a cherry-
shaped sort. The first, or large red, is that com-
monly cultivated, and it serves for an ornament in
the garden, as well as of use for the table, in a
pickle made of the green fruit, and when red in
soups, &c. It is also sometimes pickled when red,
(i. e. ripe.) At the end of March, or beginning of
April, it must be sown in a moderate hot-bed ; and
being soon thinned, let the plants grow two or three
inches high, and be pricked in small pots, to turn
into the cold ground towards the end of May ; or if

SECT. XVII. OF FRUITS. £77

not too long and weak, keep them under cover a little
longer. Give them a sunny situation against a wall,
for regular and timely training, or support them by
sticks. They take up much room, and in rows
should be three yards asunder. If planted out upon
holes of hot dung, it would help their speedy root-
ing, and forward them much for ripening their fruit,
which in bad seasons they sometimes fail in. They
require much water in dry weather.

WORMWOOD is a useful medicinal herb ; and com-
mon as it is in many places, in others it is not to be
met with wild. Besides the common, there is a Ro-
man wormwood— both are efficacious ; some prefer-
ring the one, some the other. They are commonly
raised from slips and cuttings, in any of the summer
jnonths, or from seed sown in spring.

SECTION XVII.

QF FRUITS.

.1 HERE is a variety (and of some a great one) of
each kind of fruit, and the difference of tastes makes
it impossible to pronounce upon their particular
merits. With respect to fruit, there are provincial
prejudices in favour of some, and of apples in par-
ticular ; so that in one county, a sort shall be gene-
rally known and admired, and in another, not be
heard of.

In assisting the young gardener in his choice of
the principal fruits, only a few sorts will be named ;
such as have obtained almost an universal credit.

27S OF FRUITS. SECT. XVII.

It would be well if the number of some kinds (as
in peaches) were reduced; for their multiplicity oc-
casions a great uncertainty, and their shades of dis-
tinction -are hardly discovered by the best judges.
Nurserymen s catalogues furnish large lists.

Of the same sort of fruit there is often a percep-
tible difference, owing either jointly or separately to
the stock, state of the tree, soil, situation, manage-
ment, and season. Bad planting, by cramping the
roots, &c. will often induce sickliness, and of course
a good plant made to produce small, ill-flavoured
fruit, and thus it will appear to be not itself. So
that when the best method is taken to procure good
fruit, (or such that please us) which is by grafting,
or inoculating from the very tree we have admired
the fruit of, our expectations may, in a measure, be
disappointed by a variety of circumstances.

NURSERYMEN, it is often said, are not to be de-
pended upon, for if they have not the sort you want,
they will send you one they have; and this may some-
times be the case, as they may think it of little conse-
quence if you have one that is good. But the case
is, there is a great confusion in the names of fruit, by
accident, ignorance, carelessness, &c. New titles
have been arbitrarily imposed on old fruits which
have happened to vary a little, and distinctions made
without a difference; of which circumstance Mr.
Evelyn complained in his day, saying, " The dis~
criminating the several kinds of fruit, by their cha-
racteristical notes, from the leaf, taste, colour, and
other distinguishing qualities, is much wanting."
But, as Mr. E. observes, the ability for this is only
attained by long and critical observation. Dr. Hill
(in his Eden, folio) professes to have given great as-
sistance in this matter. " Under the section of
fruits, (says he) we shall give their proper names

SECT. XVII. 0* FRUITS. 279

and descriptions, by which every one will know by
what names to call those he sees." No ! for a very
intimate acquaintance hardly can do it

Disappointment frequently originates with the pur-
chaser, who having met with a fruit to his mind, in-
quires the name, and is told a wrong one, and that,
perhaps, of a bad sort; the nurserymen then comply-
ing with his order, is blamed. A reduction of the
number of sorts, to those in which there is an evident
difference, with more care on the part of those who
raise, and those who buy trees, in all respects; and
particularly that of preserving the true name, seeifl*
necessary, therefore, in the affair of fruit trees.

The choice of fruit trees should be somewhat go-
verned by soil and situation ; (which was observed p.
30) for the fruit which succeeds in one, will not in
another. Later fruit may be planted in light soils
than in strong ones. Some sorts grow finest in a
cool, others in a warm soil, and some situations are
too bleak, cither for early or late fruit, though the
aspect, and all other circumstances, may be goodr
In planting fruit trees, particularly those of the
wall, much discretion is necessary to avoid disap-
pointment.

As fruit trees are so readily purchased, few people
care to raise them; but those who may be disposed
this way, will find instructions in the sections nur-
sery and graffing. The purchaser must attend care-
fully to the planting, for which work directions have
been given in the sections on the formation of a
garden, and that on planting. For the training
and pruning of fruit trees, ample rules are laid
down in the section, On pruning: so that nothing
need be said of their cultivation here, making proper
references.

APPLES, as the most useful fruit, it. will be proper
to provide as many trees of as there may be fcuud

380 OF FRUITS. SECT. .XV It..

due room and occasion for; taking all care to pro
cure good sorts of the two kinds; i. e. for eating
raw, and dressed; and to have a proper assortment
of the summer, autumn, and winter fruits.

For the first season, jenneting, common codlin, mar-
garet apple, and summer pearmain. Second, golden
pippin, Holland pippin, golden rennet, white calville,
and Kentish codlin. Third, nonpareil, golden russet,
Wheeler's russet, winter pearmain, Kentish pippin,
libst one pippin, margille, Norfolk beefing, and the
John apple. There are, no doubt, other apples very
gpod ; but, perhaps, these have as much merit as
any. With respect to raising, planting, pruning^
<&c. see pages 30, 36, &c, 71, &c. 83, &c. 101, &c,
165, 169.

The gathering of apples, and other fruit, from
standards, is often badly performed, -damaging the
tranches, and breaking the spurs off; let this busi-
ness, therefore, be properly attended to, particularly
in young trees of good sorts. Do nat pinch, or
bruise, fruit in gathering, for even the hardy apple
pay suffer.

As to the keeping of apples, those which continue
long for use should be suffered to hang late, even to
November, if the frost will permit, for they must be
^sveli ripened, or they will shrink. Lay them on
heaps till they have sweated a few days, when they
must be wiped dry. Let thern then lay singly, or
at least thinly, for about a fortnight, and be again
wiped, and immediately packed in boxes and ham-
pers, lined with double or treble sheets of paper.
Place them gently in, and cover close, so as to keep
air out as much as possible. Preserve them from
frost through the winter. Never use hay for the
' purpose.

Some of the choicest table sorts of apples may be,
treated as directed for the best pears.

SECT. XVII. OF FRUITS

The baking apples need not be packed, but either
kept singly on the floor, or shelves, or in heaps co-
vered over, when they have sweated a few days longer
than the others, and have been wiped dry; yet these,
if packed, will certainly stand a better chance of
keeping the longer. Remove all decaying fruit as
soon as discovered, and suffer no damp or musty
straw to remain in the room ; Use that of wheat or
rye.

APRICOT is a. fruit something between a plumb
and a peach, partaking of a middle nature, both in
growth and taste.

The early masculine, Brussels, orange, Turkey,
Breda, and Moor^park, or Anson, are the common
and-best wall sorts; but the Turkey, and the Moor-
park, though very fine fruits, are idle uncertain
bearers. The Dunmore Breda (excellent) is ripe hi
September.

Gather apricots a little before ripe, or they will
lose that smartness which recommends them. With
respect to thinning the trees of young fruit, when
too full, see page J54. Particulars as to raising,
planting, £c. see pages 30, 38, 74, 94, 108, 111,
13,5, £c.

BERBERRY (sometimes called piperidge) is a
pretty fruit, useful as a preserve and garnish ; a hand-
.some shrub, which makes a profitable, and also use-
ful hedge, for by reason of its thorns it is almost im-
pregnable.

Besides the common red fruited, there is a stone-
less red, preferred for preserves. See List 3, sect.
19- Of raising this shrub, &c. see pages 80, 175.
CORNEL; i. e. Cornelian cherry. The fruit used
to be by many preserved to make tarts, and a medi-
cinal preparation was also made of it, called rob dc
cornis. See cherry t List 2, sect. 1£.

OF FRUITS. SECT. XVIf.

CHERRY: The sorts may be the early May,
May-duke, (ripe in June) white, red, and black
hearts, bleeding heart, ox-heart, Turkey, trades-
cants, carnation, and morella ; to which may be
added, the yellow Spanish, and white Swiss, ripe in
August.

In gathering cherries, take care not to pull the
fruit spur off, which is too common a thing. If
they are properly ripe, they will part easy from the
tree. See pages 31, 38, 89, 95, 109, 166, 169,
172.

CIIESNUT is not a garden fruit, but the manured,
or Spanish sort, in an open situation, produces good
nuts about Michaelmas, and may be kept all winter,
if covered close from the air. See page 79.

CURRANT, we have a small red and white, with a
larger of each, called Dutch currants, the Cham-
palgne, or pale red sort, and the black. There are
currant trees with variegated leaves, and a sort with
a gooseberry leaf. See pages 32, 38, 80, 112, 168,
173.

FIG is a fruit, the sorts of which that are mostly
planted without doors in England, are the common
large blue, early dwarf blue, early dwarf white>
and large white. The first kind is the hardiest;
but yet even these do not always ripen well with us
in the open air. See pages 30, 78, 108, 111, 15£?
&c.

FILBERD, we have & white and red sort of, and
the latter judged most agreeable in flavour. Other
mits are the Spanish, cob, and hazel in variety. The
first is a large nut with a thin shell, and the second
is a large one with a thick shell, but both are good.
There is a sort of nut near two inches long, but
it does not kernel well. See pages 38, 74, 80,
167.

SECT. XVII. OF FRUITS. 283

GOOSEBERRY, there are many sorts of, arising
from their propagation by seed, differing in their
time of coming in, size, colour, &c. The larger
sorts of gooseberries (weighing from ten to fifteen
penny-weights) have been much run upon, yet we
have small ones of superior flavour. The names at
least of the sorts are numerous ; a nurseryman gives
me above 200, but those that have been long com-
monly cultivated are, the early black, small early red,
smooth green, hairy green, common and large white,
hairy and smooth red, ironmonger, Champaigne, yel-
low, amber, and tawney. See pages 51, 38, 80, 112,
168, 173.

GRAPE. The only sorts likely to fruit well in
open culture, are the small black July, white and
black sweet water, black muscadine, and black duster.
See pages 30, 31, 76, 114, 118, 356, &c.

MEDLAR, we have an apple and pear shaped sort
of; but this fruit is little cultivated, and not good
till rotten ripe. The sorts are, the German, the
Italian, and the English, or Nottingham medler.
Gather at the beginning of November, lay some on
straw, and cover with straw ; and others (to forward
their ripening) put in a box, on a three inch layer of
fresh bran, moistened well with soft warm water ;
then strew a layer of bran between them, and cover
two inches thick, which moisten also, but not so wet
as before : Thus layer upon layer, will, in a week,
ten days, or a fortnight, do the business. See pages
41, 84.

The chief value of the medlar (as also of the
service) is its late coming in for table use, when
there is little other fruit to be had.

MULBERRY, there is a Hack, a white, and a red
sort of; but the former is the one generally culti-
vated for fruit, being as such the best. The white
sort of mulberry is that cultivated for feeding silk

2S4 OF FRUITS. SECT. XVII.

worms. The red sort is the common mulberry of
Virginia, hardy, and succeeds here.

The mulberry tree should have a grass plat under
it for the fruit to get full ripe, and fail on ; for those
thus picked up will be superior to what may be ga-
thered. See pages 37, 83, 171.

NECTARINE is much like the peach in all res-
pects, only that it is smaller, has a smooth skin,
and of firmer flesh. The Newington, red Roman,
temple, and m^trry, are good sorts, to, which the cu-
rious, in a good situation, may add the early nut-
meg, the late green, or Peterborough, and the white
Italian.

In gathering nectarines and peaches, never pinch
them to try whether they are ripe ; for when so, the
touch will discover it, and when thorough ripe (as
they should be) they will come from the tree with
great ease. See pages 30, 74, 94, 108, 111,
135, &c.

NUT, see Filler d.

PEACH (in general) succeeds better than the nec^
tarine, as to bearing and ripening. There is a
great variety of peaches under cultivation in Eng-
land, but on the Continent the number is much
greater. The following may be recommended ; The
early Ann, early Newington, early purple, the red
and white Magdalcm, the two mlgnons, noblesse,
admirable, old, or late Newington and Catherine.

Peaches cannot be too ripe, (see nectarine) so
that those which drop are by many reckoned the
best ; and those whose flesh adheres to the stone
(called pavies) are by some thought the more delir
cious. The noblesse and admirable part from the
stone. See pages 30, 74, 94, 108, 111, 135,
&c.

PEAR, there is a great variety of, classed into
summer, autumn, and winter fruits. The swnimr

SECT. XVII. OF FRUITS. f 8j

sorts may be the green chissel, Catharine, Jargonelle^
and summer Bonchretian. The autumn , brown
buerre, bergamots, swans egg, and dean pear, or St.
Michael. .The winter St. Germain, cresan, whiter
bonchretian, colmar, and chaumontclle. These all
come in for eating regularly, the first in July, and
the last continues on to Mai/ or June. Baking
pears, Parkinson's warden, the union, or Uvedale*
St. German, cardillac and black pear of Worcester^
good to midsummer.

Gather pears of the summer sorts rather before
they are ripe, as when thoroughly so they eat meally,
if kept above a day or two ; even when gathered as
they ought to be, in a week, or less, they will begin
to go at the core : They should not, however, be
gathered, while they require much force to pull them
off. Autumn pears must also not be full ripe at the
time of gathering, though they will keep longer than
those of the summer. Winter pears, on the con-
trary, should hang as long on the trees as they may,
go as to escape frost, winch would make them flat
in flavour, and not keep well. Generally they may
hang to the middle of October on full standards, a
week longer on dwarfs, and to the end of the month
on walls ; but yet not after they are ripe.

The art of gathering, is to give them a lift, so as
to press away the stalk, and if ripe they readily part
from the tree. Those that will not come off easy,
should hang a little longer ; for when they come
hardily off, they will not be so fit to store, and the
violence done at the footstalk may injure the bud
there formed for the next year's fruit.

Let pears be quite dry when pulled, and hi hand-
ling avoid pinching the fruit, or in any way bruising
it, as those which are hurt 'not only decay themselves,
but presently spread infection to those near them :
When suspected to be bruised, let them be carefully

286 OF 'FRUITS. SECT. XVII*

kept from others, and used first. Gather by laying
them in gently in shallow baskets.

House pears in a dry airy room, at first thinly for
a few (*ays, and then put them in heaps to sweat ;
in order to which, a blanket thrown over them will
help. The fermentation must be watched, and when
it seems to have passed the height of sweating, wipe
the fruit quite dry gently with line flannel, or clean
soft linen, and store them carefully*

The storing is thus : Those to be used first, lay by
singly on shelves, or on the floor, in a dry southern
room, on clean dry moss, or sweet dry straw, so as
not to touch one another. Some, or all the rest,
may be stored as directed for apples : for they will
thus keep very well, having first laid a fortnight
singly, and then nicely culled. But the most supe-
rior way is, to pack in large earthen, or China or
stone jars, with very dry long moss at the bottom,
sides, and also between them, if it might be. Press
a good coat of moss on the top, and then stop the
•mouth close with cork, or otherwise, which should
be rosined round With about a twentieth part of bees-
wax in it. As the object is effectually to keep out
air, (the cause of putrefaction) the jars, if earthen,
may be set on dry sand, which put also between,
round, and over them, to a_foot thick on the top.
In all close storing, observe, there should be no
doubt of the soundness of the fruit. Guard in time
from frost those that lie open. Jars of fruit must
%be soon used after unsealing. See pages 31, 38,
45, 74, 77, 86, 94, 95, 100, &c. 108, 161, 169-

PLUM, of the many sorts the following are good :
Green and blue gage, Fotheringham, white and blue
perdrigon, drop a" or, la roche Corbon, la royal, and
St. Catharine. The imperial, or red magnum bonum,
and white magnum bonum, are chiefly used in tarts,
and for sweet-meats, as is the JVtntworth. The

SECT. xvir. OF FRUITS. 287

early white primordian, (not a choice fruit) is valu-
able for its coming in the beginning of July ; and
the imperatrice for not coming in till October.
Damson and bullace plum, black and white, very late
ia the season, for tarts, and a fine acid preserve.
See pages 31, 38, 74, 77, 86, 94, 95, 107, 1<J8,
and 169. See Pishamin, 320.

QUINCE, we have the common apple, and pear
shaped, and Portugal pear shaped. This fruit can-
not be eat raw, bat for marmalade, and a little in
apple pies, &c. the housewise finds useful. The
Portugal is mostly esteemed. Quinces may hang
till November ; ripe ones only are of value, which
after sweating a few days, must be laid singly (at
some distance from one another) on a shelf. See
pages 38, 78, 109.

RASPBERRY, the kinds are red and white, and of
each a twice bearing sort, i. e. producing fruit in
summer and autumn. Of the red there is a prickly
wooded sort, and a smooth one called the cane, and
sometimes the reed raspberry ; and the large An-
twerp, of a yellow white, sometimes called the Mid-
diet on Rasp.

Gather this fruit carefully, and not long before
wanted ; lay no great quantity together. Raspberries
presently lose their flavour, and tend to decay. See
pages 38, 58, 80, 112, 174.

SERVICE, (sweet) or sorb apple, is rarely culti-
vated for fruit, as it requires a wanner climate than
England to ripen it : In fact, it never ripens on the
tree. It is gathered late in autumn, in a very austere
state, and laid by on wheat straw to decay, when in
about a month it becomes agreeable to eat. The
trees are hardy, and the curious often plant them,
merely for the singularity of their leaves and fruit.
This tree is sometimes trained on a wall, or espalier,

28$ 6F FRtnrs. SECT, xvir.

as pears. There is a variety, as the apple, the pear*
shaped, £c. See lists of trees, 1, 2, Sect. 19.

STRAWBERRY : Of this fine flavoured fruit, beau-
tiful and fragrant, we have the following sorts : Red,
white, and green wood; red and white Alpine: scar*
let ; Carolina ; hautboy ; red and green pine-apple ;
Chili, of sorts ; with some seminal varieties, as se*
veral of the hautboy, and one in particular of the
Carolina, called the pink fashed strawberry with one
leaf, a variety of the wood and prolific*

Gather strawberries regularly as they ripen, with
a bit of their stalk, and never lay many together to
press upon one another. The fresher they are, the
tiner eating ; for this fruit, as the raspberry, is quite
naught when stale. See pages 38, 54, 58, 80, 1 16,
175.

WALNUT, there are several sorts of, as early and
late, small, and large, thick and thin shelled, &c*
Two only need be named, the early oval thin shelled)
and the common round, or royal walnut. All the
others seem to be only seminal variations from the
last, which is justly reckoned the best fruit Pro-
cure trees from seven to ten years old, well taken
up with entire roots, as they seldom bear till about
twenty years of age. See pages 79, 108.

SECT. XV1I1. OF FLOWERS. 289

SECTION XVIII.

OF FLOWERS.

.Flowers, the sole luxury which Nature knew,

In Edens pure and guiltless garden grew ;

Gay without toil, and lovely without art,

They sprung to cheer the seiise, and glad the heart.

BAUBAULD.

Jb LOWERS, as to their cultivation, are classed
into annuals, biennials, and perennials. Annuals are
those that are sown and flower, and generally die
within a year. Biennials are those that are sown
one year, and flower and generally die the next ;
though some of these, by sowing early, and forward-
ing by a little heat, will blow the same year. Peren-
nials are those that do not flower the year they are
sown, but the next, and continue to live years aiter-
wards> some fewer, some more : Of this class there
is a great variety, (perhaps fifty to one of the last)
mostly fibrous rooted, some fleshy, some bulbous,
and some tuberous, &c. Most of the perennials
are annual in their stalks, which die down to the
ground in winter, and fresh roots rise in the spring.
But, strictly speaking, all of each class are not an-
nual, biennial, and perennial ; for some of the an-
nuals come (though more weakly) a second, or a
third year, as Chinese holyhock and Indian pink, and
a few others, (which die abroad) would live through
the winter if housed, as Nastartium. Of the bien-
nials, the same may be said of the stock July-ftozver,
sweet IVilliam, and wall flower ; only the tormer o£
these plants does riot always live through the winter.

290 OF FLOWERS. SECT. XVIII.

All are to be sown, or propagated, as they are classed,
in order to have a certain and fine blow. Of the
perennials, some do not flower well above three or
four years, as the English holyhock, &c. for which
sowing should take place every year to have a suc-
cession : A few perennial sorts may also go off the
second year, having perfected only one blow. See
pages 42, 43, 57, 58, 61, 66, 67, 72, 1 16.

What sweets are these which gratefully diffuse

Their fragrance round ?

'Tis the flowers

The incense of the garden's breath, that sheds

This balmy sweetness. — .

• • To the smell

How grateful, not less pleasing to the eye

The bloom of opening flowers. — Kind nature here

In nice proportion all her favours deals ;

Those gales around the blissful garden pours,

Neither too strong the organs to oppress,

Nor yet so faint the senses to elude.

See in what various tints the flowery tribes
Their several beauties shew, and court the eye
With new delight, distinguish'd each from each
By different hues — how wise the bounteous hand
Of that indulgent power ! tho' perfect all
His works, who yet on all the charms bestows
Of novelty to shew 'em still more fair.

NEW co MB.

1. OF ANNUALS.

Annual flowers are usually divided into three
classes, i. e. tender, less tender, and hardy.

In the list, section 19th, the tender annuals are
marked 1,'the less tender 2, and the unmarked are
hardy, to be sown either in autumn or spring,
. To this list of flowers might be added others, and
some possibly that are pretty ; but many of the an-

SECT. xvni. OF FLOWERS. 291

nuals introduced for variety's sake in large gardens,
plantations, &c. are weed-like, dull, and rambling ;
and perhaps, a few among those here is mentioned
may not be sufficiently ornamental (as, for instance,
the whites, where there are other colours of the same
flower) to give general satisfaction ; for a gay ap-
pearance is certainly the first object in the cultiva-
tion of flowers to adorn our walks. There are rare
plants, and others admirable in their structure and
properties, which make no shew ; but these are ra-
ther subjects for the curious botanist) and he will
deservedly think them worthy of a place in his
garden.

Some flowers are both beautiful and fragrant ; but
many have only one of these properties to recom-
mend them. Some are cultivated chiefly for the
beauty or elegance of their leaf', as the tricolor, ice
plant, palma, christi, and the curled mallow ; and
some that bear pretty and sweet flowers, are meanly
furnished with leaves, as the yellow sultan. Others
obtain a place in the garden, neither for fragrance,
or flower, or leaf; but merely for the singularity of
the fruit, or seed vessel, as the egg plant, snails,
caterpillars, hedge hogs, horns, and others.

In the given list, some of the tender annuals may
occasionally be considered as less tender ; as Ama~
ranthus, coxcomb, and tricolor, balsams double, as
well as single, and stramonium ; only they will not
be so forward and fine. Some of those also among
the less tender may be sown as hardy, for a late
blow, as China-aster, Indian pink, love lies .bleeding,
French and African marigold, princes feather, ten
weeks stocks, and sweet sultan. Some among the
}iardy annuals may advantageously be treated as the
less tender, to ensure their germination, or to bring
them Jorward, as belvldere, Indian corn, (the large

V 2

OF FLOWERS. SECT. XVIII.

sort of which must be early forwarded upon heat)
tyignonette, nasturtium, and persicaria.

THE CULTURE OF EACH CLASS FOLLOWS.

I. OF ANNUALS.

ABOUT Mid- March, is a general good time to sow
the TENDER (and in short all) sorts, though the cu-
rious and skilful being well furnished witn proper
frames, &c. may begin a month sooner ; the end of
March, or beginning of April, is, however, not too
late, and will (perhaps) better suit a young gardener
than if he sowed earlier. In order to succeed in this
business, there should be provided fine dry and rich
earth, good stable dung, frames and lights, or roomy
hand glasses, and mats to cover.

A moderately strong hot-bed, for a one light frame,
may be prepared, and the violent heat being cer-
tainly over, the seeds cither sown thinly in drills,
two or;three inches asunder, on five or six inches of
mould, or less on a weak bed. May sow also in
pots, plunged to the rims. Cover the seeds from a
quarter to half an inch, or more, according to their
size. Some of them will appear in a few days, and
others will lie a fortnight or more, according to the
circumstances of their particular nature, age, and
the heat or moisture they meet with in the bed.

Thin the plants a little in time, and soon after to
an inch, and then again to two, asunder. By no
means let them be crowded, which would draw them,
up weak, and occasion a crooked growth ; whereas
a robust and erect stature is the beauty of any plant.

JVatcr, just warm, must be gently given, them,

SECT. XVI 1 1. OF FLOWERS. £93

(not to beat them down) as they may appear to need
it, and air (particularly in a' full sun) as much as
they can be thought to bear, a little at first, and
by degrees more, a§ essential to their health and
strength.

The seeds may also be sown in pots, and plunged
at the back part of a cucumber or melon bed. A
bed may be got ready to prick them into when grown
a little, or into pots placed in the like manner ; and
where only a few are cultivated, this method is ad-
viseable, (to save trouble) not beginning too early.

Provide another bed by one month from the sow-
ing, to set the plants out in ; and having six. inches
depth of mould, place them five or six inches asunder,
allotting those to the warmest part of the bed which
were longest coming up, and which are of course
the weakest, as globes, &c. or they may be put out
in small pots of five inches diameter: Place the
tallest behind. Let the mould be warmed through
before planting. There had better be too little, than
too much heat ; but if the bed gets over cool, line it,
or cover round with straw, as directed concerning
hot-beds, page 184.

If not sown till the beginning of April, this se-
cond-.bed may possibly go through the business, with
proper management to keep up its heat, and cover-
ing well on nights ; but a third bed is commonly
necessary, in order to succeed well, and bring the
plants on forward and truly fine. In this bed, it
being covered over with four or five inches of mould,
the plants should be in small pots, one in each, and
plunged an inch deep, close to one another. As the
bed gets cooler, the pots are to be earthed higher,
till up to the rims in mould ; but if planted without
pots, the distance should be eight or nine inches
asunder, in order for a ball of earth when moved.

More water and air is necessary as the plants in*

£94 OF FLO WE SS. SECT. XVI II.

crease in size, and every time they are shifted, let it
be carefully, with some earth about their roots ;
though a warm bed will soon make them strike, if
without mould. Let them be shaded from sun a few
days ; i. e. till rooted in their new habitation. As
these tender annuals do not rightly bear the full open
air till Mid-summer, give them resolutely as much
of it as possible in the frames, (by degrees) even to,
taking off the glasses in fine mild days. Keep up,
a heat in the third bed as long as can be, that the
plants may continue in a growing state, and not get
stunted by cold at bottom. To this end, a fourth
bed, for some of the sorts, as globes, coxcombs, &c.
"would be a greater advantage as to size, especially
if the weather is unkind.

It is hardly necessary to hint that the beds must
be larger, and frames deeper, every time the plants
are shifted. As the first frame was a one light, let
the second be a two light, and the third a three
light, which may be raised upon bricks, or boarded
round the bottom, as occasion may require. From
the small pots, let them be transplanted into bigger
in time, or (as soon as they can safely be) into warm,
borders, where, if covered with hand-glasses, set on,
bricks for a while, it would secure them from bad
weather till got a little hardened. In this change-
able climate of England, there is hardly any know-
ing when tender plants may be exposed safely ; yet
too much housing and covering is to be avoided as
much as possible. Many flowers will need support.
See page 56. For the method of shifting plants,
from pots, as into bigger, or to the open ground, see
page 1:95, and do the work carefully.

Some of the tender flowei;s in pots may be plunged
to the rims in the ground, to keep their roots cool,
and for the sake of being conveniently covered ; ia
which case, it is proper to put a bit of tile under-

4i

SECT. XVIII. OP F1QWERS.

neath the pot to keep out worms, which otherwise
would get in.

Good seed from tender annuals will not be well
had, but from February sown plants. Skilful gar-
deners, sowing early, and having plenty of dung
and drazving frames, produce surprising plants of
the tender annual class ; so that the globe amaran-
thus has been raised to three, and the giant coxcomb,
and tricolor, from three to five or six feet high.
Tender flowers designed to gather seed from, should
begin to have some protection of glass about Mid-
August, at least on nights, till they are fully ripened
in September.

Scoop trowels, of two or three sizes, will be found
very useful in the shifting of flowers in general, but
particularly of the hot bed sort ; and as they should
be clean from dirt when used, so also should they be
sharp edged and free from rust, by which they will
•work pleasanter, and more successfully : In short all
garden tools should be kept bright, as well for use
as neatness. Before a trowel is used, in the removal
of a plant, it is a safe way to cut strait down round
the root, and to the bottom, with a large, clean, and
not very blunt knife ; so will the trowel take all up
whole, and the fibres will not be lacerated, or barked :
But attempt not to take up more earth in a ball than
is likely to hang together, lest all drop by its weight.
Transplant (if possible) in moist, or cloudy weather,
and shade.

A small watering pot, (i. e. from two to three
quarts) with a finely pierced rose, is also necessary,
to give refreshment without bending down the plants,
or hardening the surface of the earth. The form of
many a forced flower is spoiled in its infancy bv
rough watering, and particularly capsicums ; to avoid
which evil, whatever pot is used} let it be only half
full.

£96 OF FtOWEKS, SECT. XVJII,

Tiie potthig of plants is often carelessly, but ought
to be most carefully performed, that as little check
as possible may be felt by the roots. Fill the pot
one third, half, or more, full, (as the case may re-
quire) and then make a hole in the middle, adapted
in form to receive the plant, with its hall of earth ;
and be sure do it right at first, so as not lo be too
high, or too low, for once put in, it will not be safe
to take it out again, lest the mould drop from the
roots. Do not press the ball of earth, (as some do)
but only just fasten the loose mould that Is put round
it with a thin bit of stick. If the soil is light, press
that a little which is first put in at the bottom. If
a plant that is to be potted be without mould about
its roots, raise a hillock (at a proper height) in the
middle of the pot, to lay the roots on and round :
It must always be avoided planting in the pots too
deep, because so much of the pot is lost as is above,,
except the sort is apt to strike root above, as bal-
sams. In all transplantations, it is proper to shorten
some of the roots, and the most straggling are to be
chosen for the purpose : so that when it is done with
a ball of earth, some of the external fibres must be
cut off if it was not done bj taking up, which it
generally is when the plants are any thing large.

Annuals in pots will require water every day, in
very hot weather, and in moderately so, every other ;
but those in the open ground will do at least twice
as long without water being given them. Some
sorts will need more water than others, as egg plants
and balsams., than coxcombs and tricolors. This
matter, and a variety of others, will be learned by
observation, without a talent for which, no one can
possibly become a good gardener. The most exact
directions will not take in every case, and rules will
be or' little avail, where the mind is not in exercise.

In general, potted plants require water according

SECT. XVI11. OF FLOWERS. 297

to the weather, their situation as to the sun, the size
of the pots, the fulness of the roots, the quantity of
leaves, and the particular nature of their substance,
as succulent or not : The smaller pots must have it
the more frequently. The earth also in which plants
grow makes a great difference, as some sorts of soil
retain moisture much longer than others. It may
be a question whether pots of annual flowers stand-
ing in pans, should have water constantly kept in
them, or only watered (in due time) on the top, till
it runs through : Both practices are followed by
good gardeners; but the latter I judge best; as
keeping the young fibres at the bottom always sod-
den caq hardly be right : With respect to perennials,
(except of an aquatic nature) it must be wrong. Let
pots of flowers in the summer be placed pretty much
in the shade and shelter but not by any means be
under trees, or a roof. A situation where they have
only the morning sun till eleven or twelve o'clock is
the best ; and some persons are so curious ia this
respect as to have awnings for the purpose, and tem-
porary reed fences to keep off also the wind, to
which flowers (particularly oi? the tender kind) should
not be wholly exposed. Annuals, or even a few pe-
rennials, may be put in covered places, when nearly
in full blow, for the sake of their ornament ; but the
latter should not be continued longer than while the.
prime show lasts, for it will make them weak and
crooked.

It is advisable not to pot more hardy plants than
necessary, as they occasion much trouble, if properly
managed ; and after all, will not be so fine as those
growing in the open ground. Some things are too
tender for open culture, and by potting they are con-
veniently protected by frames, or by housing, and
sometimes simply plunging them in the ground, close,
against a warm wall, in winter, where a little prptecs

293 OF FLOWERS. SECT* XVIII.

tion may be easily given them. Others it may be
desirable to pot, for the sake of moving them into
particular places, when in blow, and to have some
ready to put into the ground, where others are gone
off, so as to keep certain favourite borders and walks
always well furnished ; but do not have too much to
do in this way.

A second sowing of tender annuals should take
place three or four weeks after the first, according
as that was made, late or early ; for their beauties
are certainly desirable, as long as the season will
permit us to behold them, and they are the Jlorisf-s
chief dependence in the autumn, when, if he is
emulous to do well, he may make a noble creditable
shew. See list 7, in next section, with the obser-
vations.

***** #

The LESS-TENDER annuals should have a slight
bed (about two feet thick) made for them about
Mid-March, or a little after, being sown and ma-
naged as directed for the tender sorts. When they
are one or two inches high, (according to their na-
ture) they should be taken up with a small tin scoop
trowel, so as to keep a little ball of earth about their
roots, and either transplanted on another bed, about
one and a half foot thick of dung, or into the cold
ground ; the small kinds at four or five, and the lar-
ger at six or eight inches asunder, in a good well
broke soil. Let them be immediately watered and
kept moist, and shaded from sun till well settled.
Here they may grow till their leaves begin to meet,
when they should be cut between their roots with a
knife, arid lifted up neatly with a trowel, to be potted
or planted where they are to flower : If this business
is done well, they will receive but little check in
their transplantation. Spindle rooted plants should
be set where they are to blow, quite young: but
jibrous rooted ones may be shifted much older.

SECT. XVI IT. OF FLOWERS.

Plants \\\\\Jiag a little even when removed with a
large ba-1 of earth ; because some of the outer fibres
of the roots are either broke or cut, and a plant is
chiefty fed by the youngest and most extreme parts
of the root. If possible, let all summer transplanted
flowers be shaded from sun, by garden pots, (raised a
little) or otherwise, till they have struck fresh roots,
which they will soon do; but uncover on nights.
This will occasion some trouble ; yet the advantage
attending it makes it very advisable, if not abso-
lutely necessary, and especially when the plants are
moved with none, or very little mould about their
root.

A hot-bed for these, as it is moderate, may be co-
vered with hoops and mats, and do very well, or
tather better than frames and glass ; for it often hap-
pens, that annuals are kept too close, by which they
become weak, and get stunted when planted out in
the free air, which, by over-nursing, is made unna-
tural to them. Towards the end of April, almost
any of them will come up under hand-glasses, or
even without, on a warm border, in a light and rich
soil ; but they will blow late, and be not near so
strong. The Chinese hollyhock, though it will cer-
tainly come up in cold ground at this late season,
will be hardly able to make a blow before winter.
Those flowers of this class, however, that have been
mentioned to be occasionally considered as hardy,
may be thus treated for a second blow.

Other modes of cultivation are, that a few of the
less tender sorts may be sown in pots, and placed
(not plunged) in any hot bed that is in work for
other things; but they must not be kept close, or
hot, which would draw them up weak : This plan
may do for them a little while, and a slight heat may
be got ready to prick them out upon, when air may

300 *>F FLOWERS. SECT. XVIII.

be given them freely, and by no means keep them
close.

Again, both this class of annuals, and the former,
if not very early sown, do exceedingly well (or ra-
ther best) when on hot beds, under hand glasses, or
paper lights, particularly blossoms, they come so
stocky.

What was said of tender annuals apply here, as
to air, water, and cover, but more freedom in the
present case is to be taken. If any are under mats,
the cover must be removed on days, except the wea-
ther be bad : or it may be only turned back, and
half off, to let the sun and light in from the south.
Never let either the seeds or plants of annuals really
want water when the weather is dry. See page 58.
See List 8 in the next Section, with the observations.

The HARDY annuals have some little difference in
their temperature. Though all may be sown from
the middle to the end of March, as the best average
season, some may generally, with success, be sown
at Mid-February, as candy tufts, cornbottles, lark-
spurs, hawkweed, lavatera, lobtl's catchjly, lupines,
dwarf lychnis, nigella, sweet peas, poppies, mulberry-
blight, oriental mallow, persicaria, sun-flower, annual
snap dragon, Venus s looking-glass, and navel-zcort,
Virginian, or annual stock, and winged peas, with
some others.

But nature, seems evidently to direct an autumn
sowing, for many sorts which are then shed (some
always, and others often) come up at spring, and
these make the finest blow, and produce the best seed
for propagation. A number, (all the above sorts)
therefore, might be scattered on the surface of the
ground at random^ not immediately as soon as ripe,

SECT. XVII f. OF FLOWERS. 501

but kept a little while to harden : This however is
not a common practice, as gardeners like to have
their borders at liberty to spring dress before they
sow annuals.

For the spring sowing, (about Mid-March) the;
ground being deep dug, and well broke, make hol-
lows (by drawing the mould aside) of from six to
twelve inches diameter, or more, according to the
size of the garden, as large ones should have the
biggest patches. Sow thin, and cover according to
the size of the seed, from a quarter to an inch deep.
Take out mould enough to leave the patches some-
what hollow, which will serve to show where they
are sown, and to receive the rain, or occasional wa-
tering. It may be proper also to put a bit of stick
in the center of each, as a mark, that the seed may
not be disturbed. If the plants come up crowding,
be sure to thin them soon, and leave only a number
suitable to their usual size of growth ; as one of the
belvidere, cornbottle, persicaria, and sun-flower ; two
of the lavatera, oriental mallow, mulberry-blight,
£c. three larkspurs ; and four of less plants. An-
nuals are very often sown too thick, and suffered to
stand too close for flowering, and that altogether not
by neglect, but choice ; yet a few short strong plants
with fine full flowers, are surely better than many tall
dangling weak ones. '

A second, or even a third sowing of hardy annuals
may be made, at two or three weeks between, to con-
tinue the blow, especially of those that come early,
and are soon off: Mid-May is not too late. The
larkspur, for instance, will make a long show with
us, by autumn, and early and late spring plants ; in
short, of every flower that blows in summer, there
may be three sowings, and two of those that come
early in autumn, in order to a. full succession.

Hardy annuals do not in general transplant well,

302 OF FtowERs. PECT. xvf u

and therefore should be sown where they are to re*
main, affording them a good soil in order to success.
Take care to sow the tallest growing sorts behind,
and the lowest in front, and to form the patches at a
sufficient distance from one another, that the ground
may be stirred and raked between them. A garden
may be too full of flowers, which it certainly is^ if the
earth is not seen distinctly round about them: for
when that is clean and fresh, all things growing in it
appear more lively: It is, as it were, the back-
ground of a picture. A few hardy annuals may be
sown in pots, setting them where they have only the
morning sun, and when in flower, they will serve to
put into any particular place, for ornament, or be
turned out into the open ground, where something
may be wanting.

2. OF BIENNIALS.

There are but a few sorts of these, and the prin-
cipal will be found in the list of them, next section^
where observations will be made on particular
plants.

They are to be sown in drill, or in beds, at broad-
cast, the latter end of March, or beginning of April,
where they have only the morning sun, and the ground
should be cool, or kept so by occasional watering :
The beginning even of May, is not too late.

Thin the young plants on the seed beds a little,
soon after they appear, to about an inch, and again
to three or four inches asunder, and keep them well
weeded. They may either thus remain till autumn,
to be planted out where they are to blow : or if they
grow too strong and crowding, let every other be
Brawn in summer, (cruising a moist time) and planted

SECT. XVIII. OF FLOWERS. 303

out wider into nursery beds for use in autumn, or
the following spring : The latter season will do for
final planting, though the former is best, as the roots
get established in the ground ; when if moved in the
spring they meet with a check. It is best, if pos-
sible, to transplant with earth about the roots ; but
shorten all straggling fibres, and cut off dead and
rambling leaves. In severe winters, those moved in
autumn (if not very early) are sometimes killed, and
therefore a few may be reserved to spring, in case of
such an accident; when being moved with good
balls of earth, they will not be much checked. If
planted late (as November) let them have fine wrell
broke earth about the roots, and lay moss, old bark,
or small stones round them for protection /rom frost.
Some of the Perennials might form another class,
and be called Biennial-Perennial, &c. from their
uncertain continuance.

3. OF PERENNIALS.

This class (as has been observed) is very numer-
ous, and the plants are propagated, many of them
by their roots, according to their nature, as fibrous,
bulbous, &c. some by layers, suckers, offsets, slips,
cuff Ings, and a few by seed only. All sorts (bear-
ing seed) are occasionally propagated this way, for
new varieties, or to produce finer plants, as those
from seed generally prove, with respect to strength,
symmetry, and flowers. It happens, however, when
propagated from seed, that though sometimes a bet-
ter, more frequently a less beautiful flower is pro-
duced of many sorts ; and this is the reason why
the other modes of propagation are so much adopted,
by offsets, Sec. as thus they come identically the

304 OF FLOWERS. SECT. XVIIL

same with the mother plant. Another obstacle against
some sorts being -sown is, that they are several years
before they come to bear, as all bulbous, and tu-
berous rooted flowers.

The Dutch have made themselves famous by their
patience and perseverance in raising bulbs and tubers,
and sow every year some of each kind, which pays
them well, when they meet with an eminently good
flower. A new sort of anemone, auricula, carna-
tion, ranunculus, and even a polyanthus, will fre-
quently fetch a guinea, and a tulip, or a hyacinth)
sometimes ten.

To raise bulbous and tuberous rooted flowers,
they should be sown in boxes (suppose three feet
long, two wide, and six inches deep) of light rich
earth, about the middle of August or September,
and setting them in a sunny sheltered place not un-
der cover. Sow anemones and ranunculuses a quar-
ter of an inch deep ; irises, colchicums, and cycla-
mens, half an inch ; and tulips, frittilleries, and
hyacinths, near an inch deep, giving water in a dry
time, so as to keep the mould somewhat moist, but
not wet. A little hay may be kept over the seeds
till the plants appear, which perhaps will be spring
with some. Sowings may take place also in March,
or April, removing the boxes in May, to where they
may have only the morning sun. Thin them a lit-
tle if they come up thick, aitd when the stalks die,
put on half an inch of fine mould ; and after the de-
cay of the leaf next summer, they must be planted
out in nursery beds, (latter end of August) two; or
three inches asunder, (according to their nature) and
some will blow the following year, as the anemone
and ranunculus, £c. though the hyacinth will be
four, or five, and the tulip seven or eight first.
These must be removed from the first nursery bed to
another, (as soon as their tops are decayed) and

SECT; XVllt. OF FLOWED. 305

planted at six inches distance ; and ever after treated
as blowing plants, Keep them very clear of weeds,
particularly the seedlings; which protect in severe
weather from frost, dt heavy rain, by mats and
hoops. A reed hurdle, or something else, put up at
the N. E. end, to break off the wind zvhen it is
harsh, will be proper.

Fibrous rooted, &c. perennials, if propagated from
seed, are to be treated sts biennials ; but they are
mostly increased (as observed) other ways, with Jess
trouble, and chiefly by parting the roots in autumn
and spring, or by rooted slips or offsets, shortening
a little their straggling fibres. Many of them have
creeping roots, and increase so fast, that it is neces-
sary to take them up every three or four years ; and
a removal of this sort is proper for most perennials,
in order to greater neatness, and a superior culti-
vation ; for though large tufts look handsome, they
may be too bulky, and some kinds are apt to rot (as
bachelor s buttons) when thick, the stalks and flow-
ers come weak, and the leaves, towards the bottom,
turn yellow.

In the next section, is a list of the most common,
ornamental, or curious perennial flowers, (easy of
cultivation) h&v\ngjibrous and fleshy roots, of which
not all the sorts are named, but thosd only which
seemed most worthy for selection.

The general culture of bulbous and tuberous roots
is, to take them up annually, soon after they have
flowered; when their leaves and stalks turn yellow
and decay, then the root is at rest, and its fibres die.
When first taken up, lay them covered in dry ground
for a few days, and then clean and harden them in
the sun, (if not exceeding hot) when they must be
stored in a dry place, till wanted ; damp is apt to
rot them. Never put many together, or into earthen
vessels for keeping them, lest ttiey mould and sicken.

306 OF FLOWERS. SECT. XVIII.

It is not absolutely necessary to take bulbs and
tubers up every year, as every second or third may
do ; but it is the common practice of gardeners to
do so, because it gives an opportunity to remove the
offsets for propagation, and the mother bulbs are
thus strengthened, as also from the renewed soil they
meet with. by a fresh plantation. Some people suf-
fer bulbous roots to remain many years without tak-
ing up ; but then they cramp and starve one another,
and are apt to go off from their original beauty.

Bulbs and tubers may be either replanted imme-
diately on being taken up. or kept out of ground
during their natural periods of rest; cr for some
sorts even longer, as Anemone and Ranunculus, for
several months. Autumn flowering bulbs are to be
taken up in May, if their leaves are decayed.

Spring flowering bulbs should be replanted in
September or October ; those of the summer in Oc-
tober, or November ; and those of autumn in July
or August. A little before, or after, is not very ma-
terial ; only when they are put in too soon, the
Spring ones cqme so forward as to be liable to be
damaged in severe winters, and springs ; and when
kept out of the ground too long, the bulbs spend
themselves first in making roots. The scfl/^Jbulbs
(as lilies) should not be kept out of the ground above;
a month or six weeks. Those that flower in summer,
may be put in the ground at different times, as early
and late in autumn, and early in the new year, (not
later than February) to obtain a succession of blow.
If any are put in at the end of February or begin-
ning of March, they should remain two years for
increase. This is a common practice with the ane-
mone and ranunculus ; but when planted in winter,
the soil should be a dry one, or made so, by digging
in a ^ood quantity of line sea-coal ashes, and coarse,
or drift sand ; else they are apt to rot, if much wet
3

XVIII. OF FLOWERS. 307

falls, before they have started fibres, especially when
followed by sharp frost. They may be protected
from wet by mats, and from frost by peas haulm, or
wheat straw.

Offsets of bulbs, and weak tubers, must be planted
a month before the full-sized roots j and as they are
not expected to flower the first year, should be dis-
posed of in nursery beds, (rather close) where they
may grow a year, or two, according to their strength^
as some will be this time, or longer, before they
flower. Those taken from scaly bulbs, will not en-
dure to be out of ground, and must therefore be
planted almost immediately. Bulbs taken up out of
seawn, i. e. when they have remained so long in the
ground as to have struck out fresh roots, should be
removed with balls of earth, for though they may
Jive without this care, they will be very weak; it is
therefore necessary exactly to observe the proper sea-
son for removal.

The soil that best suits bulbous and tuberous roots
in general, is a .sandy loam ; but most of the sorts
are not very nice. The ground for them should
however be well dug, even two spades deep, that their
fibres may shoot freely, and wet be completely
drained from them, when much of it falls. This work
should be done a week before planting, that the
ground may settle. In a light soil, rooU of the ra-
nunculus have been found to strike a yard deep,
which may admonish, that in a clay bottom, it is
proper to lay a body of stones there, (suppose at
eighteen inches) that too much moisture may not be
detained to sicken the roots.

The depth at which bulbs should be planted, must
be according to their size, three or four inches deep,
from their top. Tubers also according to their size ;
anemones and ranunculuses at two, or two and a half
inches, &c. Some bulbs will come up even when a

30*5 -b'f1 FLOWERS. fctCT. XVIII.

foot below the ground, as crown imperials ; and
crocuses, at six inches or more; some persons, there-
fore, plant them deeper than the above rule, in order
to be able to stir the surface of the ground without
damaging them, but it is not advisable.

The proper disposition of bulbous and tuberous
roots, is either in beds (a trifle rounded) of from three
to four feet and a half wide, for the curious sorts; or
in patches, to form clusters of three, four, or five,
agreeable to the room they require. There should be
only one in a place (generally) of the white, or orange
lily, crown imperial, and such like large bulbs.

In 'beds, the fancy sorts of bulbs, and tubers, may
be set in rows, eight or nine inches asunder, and from
five to seven inches, in the rows, according to their
size. The distance of four inches apart is, however,
by some florists, thought sufficient for anemones and
ranunculuses ; but certainly a greater distance were
better, in order to a strong blow. Hyacinths should
be planted at seven, or eight, though they are more
commonly set at six inches. Tulips should be at
e'ght, or nine, though six is often all allowed them.

When planted, if rain does not come in about four
days, beds of bulbs and tubers should be watered,
to set them growing that they may not mould and
rot.

Though lulls may be planted by a dibble, (taking
care that the earth docs not lay hollow about th&
roots) a better way is, to draw drills, and place then*
in, giving them a gentle pressure into the ground^
and covering neatly up. A little free sand may be
strewed along the bottom of the drills, under hya-
cinths, anemones, and ranunculuses, if the soil is not
a dry and lio;ht one. The best way of planting bulbs
.is, however, to draw the mould off the whole bed to
a sufficient depth ; then lay the surface perfectly le-
vel; give a watering; and when the top is a

*zcx,xv-ur. OF FLOWERS*

dry, mark it out into proper sized squares; tbeg
place a bulb* in the midcWe of : each, and, carefully
cover up, so as not to $hrow tfaerp on their sides; ;
Give the whole a iitUe pressure .with -the back of a
spade to fasten the mould.

Bulbs and tubers in beds, may conveniently be
protected, when \\i ftpwer, from rain arid sun, by an
awning, which will continue them in perfection of
blow much longer than if always exposed. When
these flowers, in beds, first break ground, if the wea-
ther is severe, they may then have an awning 5f
mats, or cloth, occasipnaily over them ; or a little
peas haulm, or wheat -straw, laid thinly on, just to
protect them in their tender state a little ; this re.-
gards particularly nights, ipr on days a cover should
not remain on in tolerable weather. But before the
shoots appear above ground, valuable be^ls of these
flowers should be sheltered from having too much
wet, (even all through wipter) as moisture gives frost
so great power. If a body otsnow lies on, it shoufji
net be suffered to melt there when it thaws, btjt
thrown mostly off.

Spring flowering bulbs pay be brought forward by
plan ting them in pots, Qv.mjtQter-glassts, and setting
thc^m in vvarur rooms, QJ* hpt-beds ; and thus, even
in winter^ we may have ornaments and sweets that
court our admiration. The great variety of hyacinths
and polyanthus narcissus, furnish us amply in this
\yay ; but other early balfys may also be thus for-
warded. Pots, placed in a light warm kitchen
south window, may be brought forward to make
their blow in the parlour ; or if placed in any win-
dow, open to the south, it will forward them. These
should be potted in October, and have a light dry
soil, occasionally giving water. Bulbs may UQ put
in g leases at this time, arid once a month after to
February, for a succession. Let the bulb just (or

310 OF FLOWERS. SKCT. XVIIT.

hardly) touch the water, which should be soft, and
replenished so oiten as to keep it up to the bottom
of the bulbs. Let it be completely changed about
once a week ; and if a bit of nitre, the size of a pea,
be put in each time, it will strengthen the blow, and
brighten it

Though bulbous flowers are propagated plentifully
by root offsets, yet some are increased from little
bulbs .o *mecl on the sides or tops of the stalks, as
the moly tribe, and the bulbiferous lily. These should
Ke. taken off in August, dried a little in the sun, and
then planted in nursery beds as offsets.

Bulbs propagated from offsets, produce a flower
exactly like the parent ; and varieties are only to be
obtained from seed, which never produces flowers
quite like the original the seed came from.

Let seed be saved only from choice flowers, be
thorough ripe, and being hardened a little in the sun,
may be sowed soon after, in pots, or boxes, of good
light earth. See page SO 4-. Persons of leisure and
curiosity, would do well to amuse themselves in this
way, that we may not be so much indebted to fo-
reigners, for a supply of new flowers.

An observation may be here made, that the same
bulb (as is often thought) does not always continue;
for some arc renewed every year, as the tulip ; and
others the second, third, &c. ; so that when taken up
to remove offsets, the principal bulb of the tulip,
&c. which is (ommonly esteemed the old one, is, in
fact, a new formed one, though (perhaps) not less in
size, and It may be bigger.

As many SHRUBS (i. e. woody plants) are propa-
gated in a view principally to their flowers, they will
properly enough be considered a little here, as to
their propagation. See section 9.

SECT. XVII T. OF FLOWERS, 311

The deciduous shrubs that are most usually culti-
vated for their ornamental nature, will be found in
the lists of the next section; and their modes of
propagation are denoted thus : — b. budding— -£. cut-
tings— g. graff—/. layers — r. roots — s. seeds — si.
slips — su. suckers — by r. roots, includes offsets.

Of the various methods of propagating trees and
shrubs, that "by seed is the best, where it can be
adopted (as has been observed) and the season is
autumn or spring. If in autumn, it may be earlier,
or later, as the seeds ripen ; for soon after they are
ripe is the most proper time to commit them to the
earth, covering the smaller seeds from half to a full
inch ; kernels, nuts, &c. from two to three inches,
according to their size. Any sort that it is doubted
will stand the winter in seed-beds, may be sown in
pots, or boxes, set in a garden frame or housed in
severe frosts. If in spring, (as it is a good rule to
sow a little at both seasons, and some tender sorts
require the latter) the seed must be carefully kept
from damp and vermin, and put into the ground to-
wards the end of February, or early in March. The
seeds of some of the more delicate sorts will require
to be sown, at this season, on a slight hot-bed ; and
if a few of most of the sorts were thus treated, it
would be a good method, to insure their germination,
and to forward them. Let spring sown seeds be
watered occasionally, according to the weather, to
keep them moist. The earth they are sown in should
be moderately light, dry, and rich, and formed into
beds of four feet wide, either in drills, or at broad-
cast, first drawing earth off into the alleys, to cover
with. See p. 72, 74.

, American trees and shrubs do very well in this
climate, but the young plants are generally tender,
and should have some protection, one, two, or three
years, till they get woody, and inured to the climate.

312 OF FLOWERS.

For grqffing and budding, (as some -|l-trut|S are
propagated this way) 'see the section C)« G ruffing ;
and for the propagation by* suc^ers^ cuttings, }ai/crs,
&c. see section 4 ; about stickers, sjee pages, <37J l\%
Those trees, or shrubs, from : 'jivh.ich cut ting* f of $)$
same year's growth niay be -"Had ' in Jun,e, 'or ^jfj6
may be greatly helped to strike root, by cpvering
them close with a 'hand-glass.; (as directe,d for Uip
arbutus, list 5, sect.1 19) and if 'a glass ^ere put

over layers, that are difficult to strik.^ it vtould li^lg
them.

This mode of propagation is particularly adapt^4
to some sorts of evergreen shrubs, which emits fibres,
more freely from the youngest wppd. If year" old
wood is treated thus, the cuttings may be set early
in spring ; or glasses may be put over those put put
in autumn. But spring cuttings, treated as the
arbutus, is the surest method to make difficult sprti
strike root.

• It may prove an observation of some, uae, that
trees and shrubs raised from seed grow the largest,
from layers generally less, and from cyttings thie
Jeast. Where; buddwg can be practjse(j? it is pr,e|er^
able to graffing for the propagation1 of shrubs. M

For planting and managing shrubs, &jef se^ jpef
tion 9. Tor pruning, see page !$&,

..,.'• K/,, *f.-*:, ^•••nj "/ef,.-. .'?* *' * »rC»«.- J*»» '*'' 'Vf^ L --u J"i'

, i •i.tiv.iol v't brre

SECT.-X1&. LIST OF TRF.ES, &C.

fai 001, cu^d tb3Di-

; n- --/bod "iO,.f':^un- •» .Ji.o'il .'-vlj T.ii;:-.il

^'^,;wJu' SECTION XIX, t™t*»,

.vi i •;: o:;«iVjO«: (i3--v '«»;" vv?.-'\ :.'•».- ^'^

.',;?:- fjul* ''-.I r; ' - *v

tJST pF TREES, SHRUBS AND BLOWERS.

%* The names of the choicest sorts of fruit trees,
will be found in Section 17.

-L HE w^ffefi o/" cultivation ^re here directed by the
letters, as in last section ; adding m. lor moist y w.
for w?t, and d. for dry. Those not marked are to
be understood (pretty much so) indifferent as to soil,
ajid indeed those njarkpd otherwise may grow in a
ponfrary kind, and often dp, though not so flourish-
ipgly, or sakly as to extrenies of heat or cold.

The time of flowering is annexed to those trees
ar^c! 4irubs that are thus at all ornamental, and thp
mprej, ordinary heights they are found to attain are
i5pnc$e4 rJn the arrangement ; a circumstance hir
tnerto mucly wanted^ a^ useful and necessary to b£
^i^awip, in order to a right disposal of them. Those
qi a naturally low growth have been, sometimes,
planted behind in shrubberies, &c. and the taller
forward ; bu,t yet this unfortunate circumstance must
be unavoidable to every inexperienced planter, who
has no other guide, than that this is a tree, and that
is a shrub, which are vague, indefinite terms as to
Stature. '

The col&urs of thp flcjwsrs are generally mentionr

ed? as a thi.ng ^greeablp to be known, and ot use in

th^ disposal of trees and .shr\ibt§ at planting, to diver*

sjiy tjie scqnp vyith moip proptiety. Jn a lew in-

^stances the flpiyersj eitliqr as to tiaie or colour, are

LIST OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX.

not noticed, being too insignificant to be ornamental,
though the fruit, or foliage, or both are.

Such observations, as may be thought most useful
and necessary, will follow each list ; but as neither
ait the sorts, nor the varieties of each sort, could be
enumerated in such a work as this, so also the mi-
nutiae of propagation, &c. is more than could be
comprehended, or expected : Folio volumes (so co-
pious is the subject) have left a variety of plants
unnoticed, and much unsaid respecting cultivation.
For ordinary use, a greater enumeration, or more
enlarged particulars, would indeed have made this
book less valuable. If the selection and information
is good, (and pains have been taken in the business)
those for whom this book is designed, will have no
reason to complain.

The names of trees, shrubs and flowers, are in
many cases various, as sometimes a scientific name
prevails, and at other times a vulgar or trivial ; and
of neither is there a perfect agreement, for of both
there is often more than one. The object therefore
here has been, to give that name by which each is
supposed best known. Different plants are some-
times called by the same name, and a nice discrimi-
nation is made by botanists, according to flower, leafy
&c. ; but these are no farther noticed than necessary.
Such descriptions are given of each, as cannot (it is
hoped) fail to identity the sort, when applied for to
any nurseryman.

In the following lists of trees, the larger are
marked with an asterism ; and in the lists of shrubs
wc\(\ flowers, discrimination of size is made byflgures,
each being divided into four sorts, as to height ; the
lowest are marked No. 1. But it is ever to be un-
derstood, that the soil, and other circumstances, will
make a difference, as to stature ; so that the greater
may become the less, and the less the greater.

SECT. XIX. ilST OF TREES, &C. 315

Where &c. is affixed to sorts, it means that there
are others ; and where it is added to the time of
•flowering, it signifies of more than one month's du-
ration. It is the nature of some things to keep in
blow nearly all summer; to encourage which, and
to strengthen the plants, dead or dying flowers should
be speedily taken off, as they occur. See page 59*

I.

LIST of deciduous trees, usually called Jbresf] or
timber trees, serving both for use and ornament :

Abele, is the white poplar ; Aspen the tremulous poplar

* Alder, common, hoary leaved, American, &c. c. L s. w*

* Ash, common, and American white, red and black, s.

* Beech) common, and American purple leaved, 5. /. d.
Birch, com. white, Virginian, and Canadian, 8tc. s. I. su.

* Chesnut, edible Spanish, and common horse, s. May

* Cypress, deciduous, or Virginian swamp, /. 5. w.

* Etm, small and broad leaved, wych, or Scotch, &c. s. /. su.
Ilickery Nut, smooth white, and rough barked, s.
Hornbeam, common in variety, as to leaf, s. I.

* Lime, common, red-twigged, black American, &c. /. c. 9.

* Larch, common red, white and black American, &c. s.

* Maple, greater, Norway, and Italian, /. s su. May
Sugar, plain tree, mountain, Stc. ditto

. for other sorts, see the lists 2 and 5

Medlar com. German, Nottingham and Italian, s. /. May

Mountain ash is sometimes a forest tree, see next list

* Nettle tree, as next list, grows large, and is a forest tree
Nut tree, common hazel, or any orchard sort, /. su. s.

* Oak English, American sorts, Spanish, Italian, &c. s.

* Plane^ Eastern, Western, middle or Spanish, s I. c. May

* Poplar, white, black, tremulous, and Carolina, c. L su. m,

* Service tree, the wild or maple leaved, s. /. June

* Sycamore , is the great maple, which see

* Walnut, the common, or royal, and black Virginian, s.

* Willow, white, or silver leaved, purple and sweet, &c.

316 LIST OF TREES, &C. 3ECT. .X13R-

%f For underwood amongst forest trees, the usual sorts are
alders, ash, beechy birch, hazel, hornbeam, safiojaf,- willow,
aijd someiimes the wych-elm, common maple, poplar, and
. sycamore.

OBSERVATIONS ON PARTICULAR, TREES.

Alders, cuttings of it grow readily, and may be
of thick truncheons a yard long, pointed, and thrust
into soft ground half way, or into a hole made with
an irjon bar. This is the way also to propagate
poplars, willows, and sallows ; also elders. . There is
a dwarf alder.

Ask, the American sorts do not grow near so large
as the common English. For the ornamental ashes,
as the mountain, see the next list.

Birch is reckoned the worst of timber, yet the
wood has its uses in several particular businesses.
The American sorts grow much larger than the? Eng-
lish. The tree is of that accommodating nature,
that it will grow in any soil or situation, wet or dry.
It is well known, that a wine is made of its sap, by
boring holes in full grown trees in spring, before the
leaves come out ; from a number of trees a great
deal may be collected. Without being unpleasant:,
(if properly made.) birch wine is relished by many,
and is reckoned very medicinal in scorbutic, and
other complaints.* There is a method of catching
the liquor, by putting into the holes (deeply bored)
faucets of elder* See next list

Chesmtt, ornamental. See the next list.

* Elm, the wych is the quickest grower, and will

f- It has been the wish of the author to speajc of the me-
dical properties of many plants that have occurred in this
work, but room could not be ajlowed it. The process, 8cc.
of birch wine, with the properties of most plants, will be
found in Meyrick's Fqmily Herbal) Svo. a good useful book.

.SECT. XIX. LIST OP TREES, &C. 317

flourish in any soil ; but the broad leaved is reckon*
ed the best timber, and the small leaved the most
ornamental ; it should have a good soil. The wych
is easily raised from seed, (sown directly after it is
ripe) but the other sorts are propagated from suckers1,
or layers, or graffing on the wych. In order to ob-
tain suckers, and shoots for layers, stools are to be
formed by cutting down some young trees, almost
close to the ground. Trees from layers are better
than, from suckers. Observe, that whatever is to be
propagated by layers, or suckers, making stools is
the way to procure them.

Hornbeam, the common sort will grow very large
in some soils, but the Virginictn (flowering yellow)
will hardly reach thirty feet, and the hop not above
twenty. ' The hornbeam feathers down lower, and
thicker than any other tree, and the property of
holding its decayed leaves on all winter, adapts the
common sort for a screen from winds. See page
117.

•Nat tree, as timber, will be best propagated from
nuts, either to remain where sown, or planted out
while young, keeping the stems trimmed up, free of
shoots, to about five or six feet, (according to
strength) and then to form a head, topping the lead*
ing shoots for the purpose, which will occasion se-
veral branches to proceed from the upper eyes; and
this is the way to form all sorts of trees to good
heads.

Oak, the English produces the best wood, but the
American sorts are the fastest growers, though they
do not attain to the size of the English. A cool
strong soil produces the handsomest trees, and
toughest timber. Oaks should not be above three
or lour years old before they are planted, for the
older they are, the more check they receive, and it
is a tree that does not transplant well. Hence all

315 LIST OF TREES, &C. »ECT. XIX.

the care should be taken that can be in the business.
See section 10. But oaks succeed best without re-
moval, having a tap, or downright root, which is
frequently broke in taking up : All trees would pro-
bably thus come finer, if it was convenient to raise
them from seed. The consequence of preserving
the tap root has been suspected ; but it is certainly
Nature's direction, and thus we find, the tap of the
oak will make its way downward, in a direct line,
through the hardest soils. See page 84.

Poplar to propagate by cuttings, see alder ; but
younger and smaller cuttings for this tree do better,
as those of one or two years old, and half a yard
long ; particularly the black poplar. ,

Walnut, when planted for timber, should be young,
and the tap root if possible preserved whole. The
black virginian grows more erect, but the other makes
the largest tree and best wood. The white Virginian
is the hickery nut. All these make the best trees,
when grown from seed without transplanting.

Willow and sallow , to propagate by cuttings, see
alder.

%* Of all the forest trees here mentioned, the
ash, the beech, the elm, and the oak, ara the prin-
cipal ; and to plant these, and others, is a work of
the most commendable, and eventually of the most
profitable kind. See pages 81, 118, 125, &c.

II.

LIST of large deciduous trees, considered chiefly
as ornamental, for pleasure grounds, &c.

* Acacia, a triple thorned, fewer thorned, &c. s. I. c. su. July

* Ash, Calabrian manna, and large flowering, s. gr. April
- weeping and variegated, wh. and yel. leaved, b. gr.
— dwarf flowering (small white bunches) s. gr. May

SECT. XIX. LIST OF TREES, &C>

* Beech, white, and yellow striped leaved, b. gr. in.
Birch, weeping or pendulous twigged, 5. /. su.
Buckthorn, common purging berried, /. su. c. May

* Catalpa (tree bignonia) or trumpet flower, c. I. s. August
Cherry, the bird, common and Cornish, &c. 5. b. gr. May
• Cornelian, male cornus, or cornel, s. c. 1. su. April

* Chesnut, scar, and yellow flow, strip, leaved, s. b.gr. May
Date-plum, or persimon, is the pishamin below

* Elm, pendulous twigged and variegated leaved, /. gr.
Frangala, alpine and berry bearing alder, s, c. 1. su. June
Glcdilsia is the acacia above, which see
Hornbeam, variegated, hop, and oriental, gr. s. I.
Laburnham, com. broad and narrow leaved, s. c. I. May
Larch, or the deciduous pine, see last list

* Lime (or linden tree) with variegated leaves, /. c. gr.
Magnolia, umbrella, glaucous leaved, &c. s. I. c. June d*
Maple, scar, flowering, and mountain, /. s. su. May

• Cretan or Levant, and Tartarian, ditto

Mountain ash, or bird's service, pi. and strp. s. I. May

* Nettle tree, black and purple fruited, s. /. su. May

* , bloach leaved of both sorts, gr. May

* Oak, striped, and red leaved Virginian, b. gr. s.
Pishamin plum, or date, European, /. s. su. May, d.

* Pistachio nut, or com. turpentine tree, &c. s. /. May

* Poplar, with variegated or striped leaves, c. /. gr.

* Robhiia, com. or false acacia, wh. flow. s. c. 1. su. June

tor other sorts, see the following list

* Service tree, or sorb apple, true, and bastard, s. L May
Tacamahacca, or balsamic poplar tree, c. 1. su.

* Tulip tree, sometimes called lily flowered, s. 1. su. July
Fiburnham, or meally way-faring tree, 5. /. c. su. May
American sorts, and striped, b.gr. in. May

* Willow, weeping, shining leaved, and yel. twigged, c.

*J* These ornamental trees are proper to plant at the back
of shrubberies, &c. and here and there one on the skirts
and fronts of woods-, or plantations of timber, and along
the boundaries of grounds. Here they will appear to great
advantage ; but more so, if planted singly in detached situ-
ations : most of them are good wood for timber, serving
eoe purpose or other.

$£0 LISTS W tREES) &C*. aE~CT.

OBSERVATIONS ON PARTICULAR TREES.

Buckthorn, if raised from s'eed? sow early in au-
tumn, as soon as the berries can be procured, and
perhaps some may come up the following spring, but
most of them will lay another year. This is the case
with other seeds, as sweet briar, Sec. See page 82.

Catalpa should grow singly, ,that it may have its
natural wide spread, and, if possible, let it be on a
plat of grass, where it will appear to great advantage.
It is very hardy ; but as it comes out late, it is ad-
visable to give it a favourable aspect,

Maple, of the scarlets, there are the Virginian
and Sir Charles Wagers, both very ornamental, but
the latter most so. The Mountain hath shining
leaves, and continues late in autumn.

Magnolias are to be considered as rather tender,
especially young plants. The glaucous leaved is of
the lowest growth, (about ten feet) but all are ele-
gantly ornamental with their white flowers : There is
also a blue flowered one. Let them have a dry soil,
as all tender plants should, as well as a warm situa-
tion.

Mountain ash produces its white flowers in May.
Its foliage is pretty, and its fruit of red berries is one
of the greatest ornaments of autumn, coming very
early, and hanging all winter, if the blackbird, &c.
will let them alone. As it deserves the most conspi-
cuous situation, it will be proper to plant some near
the house, and most frequented places, where birds
may be disturbed from their too frequent visits.

Pishamin, or date plumb, is chiefly cultivated here
as ornamental for its shining leaves ; its fruit is, how-
ever, eat by some, like the medlar and sorb, in a state
of decay. House young plants in pots the first win-
ter : Allow this tree a dry soil and shelter. •

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 321

Pistachla, this is the hardiest of three sorts. Treat
it as a tender plant, whilst young, for three or four
years, and let it have finally a sheltered situation from
wind, and a dry soil.

Tulip tree is tender whilst young, but afterwards
very hardy ; is uncertain in flowering, but handsome
in its leaf and growth, and has been used to be planted
singly on lawns, &c. It is a native of Virginia, where
it attains to so vast a size, as to be from twenty to
thirty feet in girth, though here it keeps pace only
with an ordinary elm. The flower is a dull red.

Virburnham, or way- faring tree, is very pretty in
its hoary leaves and white flowers, succeeded by fruit
in autumn, in bunches of red berries. The American
sorts grow not near so high, but they rarely ripen
their berries here. The variegated sort does not
grow so large as the plain, which is the case with all
striped plants. See next list.

III.

LIST of smaller deciduous trees, or shrubs of tree
growth, ornamental for pleasure grounds.

* Almond tree, sweet and bit. red and wh. flow s. b. April

* , — oriental silver leaved, s. b. April
Amorpha, or bastard indigo, pur. flower, s. si. June
Andromeda, tree sort, or Carolina sorrel tree, /. $u. s.

*- Apple, Siberian and Virginian crabs, 5. gr. May

* . Tartarian crab, beautiful large fruit, J>T. May

* — double flow. Chinese (Pyrus spectabiiis) gr. May
— American, very small or berry crab, s. gr. May
Aralia, thorny, or Angelica tree, yel. flow. s. r. Aug.

* Azarole thorn, Virginian cockspur, &c. s. 1. />. gr. May

* Azederach, com. bead tree, or paternoster nut, s. July
Berberry, red, white, and black, see p. 28 1, c. /. s. SH. May
Bwjamin tree, or benzoin gum, yei. flow. s. /. 5. April

Y

322 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIXt

Bignonia, see trumpet flower in this list

* Bladder nut, five and three leaved sorts, s. su. I. c. May
sena, see colutea

.Buckthorn, sea, European and Canadian, 5. c. I. June
Caragana, or Siberian robinia, yel. flow. c. L s. sn. May
Cashiobury bush> or bastard cassine, wh. flow. s. L August

* Cherry , com. double white and blush flow. b.gr. May

i weeping or pendulous branched, s. b. gr. M ay

* Mahaleb, or perfumed cherry, s. b. gr. May

Chinquapin, dwarf American chestnut, or oakj s. in. May

Clematis, (a climber) see virgins bower

Colutea, com. of tree bladder sena, yel. flow. 5. L July

* Date plum (pishamin) Virginian, /. s. su. May, d.

* Dogwood, or bloody twig, com. and Virginian, c. L s. June

* Elder t bl. wli. gr. and red berried and striped, c. /. s. June
Gueldre rose, often called snow ball tree, c.l. su. May

* Hawthorn, com. doub. scarl. berried, Sec. b.gr. /. May

* Glastonbury, blows in the winter, s. b. gr.

Virginian thorned and thornless, 5. Lb.gr. May

.1% Judas, tree, com. and Canadian, pur. red, wh. s. May
Kidney-bean tree, Carolina, (a climber) blue, s. July, d.

* Lilac, com. purple, blue and white flow. s. su. I. May
Medlar, woolly leaved, pur. fl. red fruit, s. /. b. gr. May

* Nettle tree, eastern vel. flow, and bloached, s. L c.gr. May,

* Oleaster, narrow leaved, or .wild olive, /. c. June cl.
Peach, dotib. bloss. as a standard, no fruit, b. April

* Pear, doub. bloss. harsh baking fruit, b. gr. May
Plum, doub. blbss, and striped leaved, b. gr. May
Privet, deciduous, plain and striped, s. su. /. c. June ^
Robinia, or rose acacia, scar. flow. s. c. 1. su. May

' shrubby quaternate leaved, yel. l:s,su. June

* Spindle tree, nat. broad, and striped leaved, s. b. c. gr. Ap.

* Stewartia, or Malacodendron, white flow, 5. si I.e. June
Sumach, tanners, wh. fl. and stag's horn, red, /. su. s. June

Carolina scarlet, and Canadia red, &c. ditto

Tamarisk, French, with pale red flowers, c. I. s. July
— Venetian, (cotinus) pur. flow. /. su. s. July

* Trumpet flower, (bigonia) scarlet and yellow, c. L s. J uly
Viburnham, American sorts, white flow, 5. /. c. su. July
Virgins hotter, entire leaved, doub. pur. flow. I. c. Aug.

• single pur. blue, red striped, b. c. July

• see clematis, in the next list

* White beam, or white leaf tree, wh. flow, s. L sit. May '

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 323

OBSERVATIONS ON PARTICULAR TREES, &C.

Andromeda tree, is tender, and must therefore have
a situation accordingly. It was always a part of
the greenhouse furniture, but does sometimes abroad;
and it is very well to try what may be done with the
hardiest greenhouse plants.

Apple, these crabs produce rather slender wood,
and therefore should not be in a crowded, or shady
situation, but rather, as much as possible, in single
plants. The fruit of the three first makes superior
tarts, and the latter an excellent preserve ; and the
fruit of all of them may come to the desert when fu}l
ripe. Allow the double flowering apple a good situ-
ation, to preserve its charming crimson blow.

Azederach consider as tender ; its foliage is beau-
tiful, flowers white, and fruit yellow.

Cashiobury bush must have a sheltered situation,
particularly the young plants, which should be pro-
tected for two or three winters.

Spindle tree (sometimes called prickwood} is very
beautiful with its leaves in autumn, for which (as
many other plants) it is chiefly considered as orna-
mental, its flowers making no show- The seed lies
two years before it comes up.

Stewartia, a fine shrub, a little tender whilst young.
Layers require two years to strike. Cuttings ma-
nage as directed for arbutus. Not ripening here,
its seeds are imported from Virginia. •

Trumpet flower, sometimes called scarlet jasmine,
is a trailing plant, and therefore requires training to
a wall tor suppoit ; or having something to climb on,
it will proceed much in the way of an honeysuckle.
It is tender, and must have a good situation, but when
properly managed is a great beauty. Prune it to a
few eyos, precisely upon the principle of a vine. The

y 2-

LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX,

shoots will strike into cracks of the walls, and mount
high where there is room. See Catalpa, last list.

LIST of the lower deciduous trees and woody
plants, called shrubs, cultivated for ornament :

2 Almond, dwarf, sing, and doub. red fl. s. su. b. gr. April
2 dwarf, with leaves hoary underneath, ditto

3 AH spice tree, Carolina, or pompadore, /. May d.

1 Allyson, prickly and hoary leaved wh. 5. su. c. July d.

4 Athmjrutex, pur. red, \\hitc strip, fl. &c. /. su. s. Sept.

$ Amelanchier, dwarf bl. fruited medlar, s. I. su. b. gr. May

2 Andromeda, shrubby, wh. yel. red and pur. fl. s. I. ^u. July

3 Aralea, herbaceous Canada and Virginian, r. s. June

4 Azalia, American honeysuckle, wh. red. scar. /. r. July
4 Bladder sena, Pocock's early deep yellow, s. /. June

4 ~_ -oriental, or the blood red, 5. /. July

3 — _ shrubby Ethiopian scarlet, s. Aug. d.

— .. , see colutea in the last list, and below

4 Bramble,, doub. blossomed, and wh. berried, /. su. s. May
4 Briar, sw. sing. doub. semi, pink and scar. s. su. I. June

2 Broom, com. English, Dyer's, and dw. Portugal, s. r. May

3 large Portugal, and upright, Montpelier, s. r. Junjr

2 wh. flowered, trailing and upright, s. r. June.

2 Buckthorn, dwarf purging berried, s. I.e. May

3 . long leaved dwarf ditto, s. /. c. May

4 Button tree (cephelanthus) American, 5. /. c. July

2 Clematis (virgin's bower) upright wh. blue, r. s. June
4 .1 oriental, climbing, yel. flow. /. c. May, &c.

4 Candleberry myrtle, wh. flow, blue berried, 5. /. su. June m.

3 . dw. Carolina, br. leave. c.L s. su. J u. m.

4 Chaste tree, nar. and br. leaved, pur. and wh. /. c. Sept.

3 Cherry, com. dwarf, and dw. Canada bird, s. b. gr. May

4 Cletra, alder leaved, full of wh. flow. s. I. su-. July, &c.
1 Cononiltajuncea, or rush-like Spanish, s. June

x3 Cotoneaster, (a medlar) dwarf quince, 5. /. b.gr. May
4 Coreopsis, two American sorts, yel. flow. off. July, &c.

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 325

2 Cinquefoil shrub, (potentilla) com. yel. flow, su. s. c. June

1 graiidifloru.s, and silvery, yel. fl. r. s. June

1 . wh. flow, upright, and trailing, r. s. June

3 Cytisus, bl based, and sessile leaved, s. c. /. June, d*
3 Elder, dwarf, wh. flow, and black fruit, s. c July

3 Gale, the sweet willow, or Dutch myrtle, r. June, w.

2 Germander tree, \\\\. yel. and pur. flow. */. c. s. July, tL

4 'ffawtltorn, gooseberry leaved, yel. fruited, s. May

5 Hamamclis (witch hazel) Virginian, s. /. flow, in winter

4 Honeysuckle, climbing Eng. wh. and red, c. /. s. June, 8cc.

4 climbing Dutch red, early and late, ditto

4 __. climb. Italian, wh. red, and yel. c. t. s. May

4 erect fly, wh. flow, and red berry, ditto

3 erect alpine, red flow, and red berry, ditto

j erect acadian (dicnilla) yel. /. <vs. sit. May

there are two climbing striped leaved sorts

3 Hydrangea, Virginian white flowering, r. sit. Aug. m.

3 Hypericum frutejc, br. and nar. leaved, /. su. c. June

4 Johns wort, stinking, inodorous, and Canary, su. s. June

1 . — large flower, somewhat tender, su. Aug.
4 liea, Virginian, full of white flowers, /. s. July, &c.
4 Jasmin, wh, fl. plain, and wh. and yel. strip. /. c. June
4 • trailing yellow flowered, /. c. su. June, &c»

2 • • erect dwarf yel. flowered, /. c. 511. July, &c.

4 Ivy, deciduous five leaved, or Virginian creeper, c. /. s.

4 Mallow tree-, com. shrubby lavatera, s. c. June, &c.

3 _ three and five lobed shrubby, do. s. c. June

3 Medlar, dwarf alpine, red fruited, s. /. b. gr. May

3 — ; Canada, snowy, purple fruit, ditto

see amelanchier and cotoneaster

3, Mezereon, wh. purp. reds and crimsons, s. Feb. &c.

2 Orobus, or bitter vetch, purp. and blue, s. /-. April, See.

4 Persian lilac, blue and white flowering, s. su. I. June
2 Poison oak, common, white flowered, r. L s. July

4 ash, or varnish tree, ditto

5 Purslane tree, sea, two sorts, c. August

4 Pomegranate, sing. doub. and strip, flow, /. b. in July
4 Raspbeiry, common sweet flowering, purple, su. July
2 Rest harrow t com. shrubby purp. flow. s. May, &c.
<2 Rhododendron, alpine, and Mount Baldis red, s. c. r. Sept.

3 ferrugineous leaved, red flow, s, c . r. Aug*

2 Robiniti, d\v. (juaternate leaved, yel, flow. s. e. /. su> May

326 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX.

Roses : The lowest sorts are, dwarf Scotch single red, —
dwarf common single white, — dwarf Pensilvanian single
and double red, — dwarf burnet leaved single red and
striped, — rose de meux, — crimson Burgundy, and dwarf
blush Burgundy.

Middling heights. — Cinnamon, single and double, red — •
common red and white, single and double, and semi-double
— monthly red, blush, white and striped — maiden's blush
double — virgin pale red thornless— moss provence double
red — rose of the world, semi-double striped — velvet, double
and semi-double.

Taller sorts are, — Provence red, blush, and white double
. — damask white, red, and blush semi double — York and
Lancaster semi- double variegated — Austrian single, yellow,
and another single, red one side, and yellow on the other — •
double yellow.

Tallest sorts are, — Apple bearing, single and double red
— royal red — Frankfort, purple red — great burnet leaved,
single i eo— Carolina and Virginia single red— musk, single
and double white.
4 Scorpiou send, com. large, yel. fl w. c. /. s. June, &c.

2 . common dwarf, ditto

4 Snowdrop tree, or fringe tree, white flow. s. I. June

3 Sjnrea Itntex, com. willow leaved, pink, su. L c. June
g „ downy leaved red, and wh. flow, ditto

4 . , guelder ro.«e leaved, wh. flow. su. L c. July

5 .- Siberian and Spanish, wh. fl. su. I. c. May

3 Sumach, myrtle leaved, white flowered, su. I. June
Sun-jiower, tickseeded, see coreopsis

4 Sytinga, large plain and stripe leaved, wh. c. L su. May
2 dwarf double-flowered, while ditto

4 Tamarisk) German, very pi ctty, red fl. c. /. s. July, &c,

for other sorts see last list

Toxicodendron j see poison oak and ash

Tree trefoil, black base, (secundus clusii) see cytistis
fi Tutsan, or park leaves, (like 67. Johns wort} M. s. July
2 Fetch, wood, or sylvan, wh. many flowered, s. r. Aug.
4 Virginian silk, variety, pur. flow, a climber, c. I. July
£ Willow herb, or French willow, pur. Sec. r. s. July, m.
3 see loosestrife, list XI.

*** As it is common to plant low herbaceous perennial
flowers in the front of shrubberies, &c. so amongst tho

SECT* '&!&.- LISTS OF TREES, &C. 327

shrub8, some of the loftier sorts may properly be, though
annual in siatk, as the tall aconites^ or monksfioods, asters,
everlasting siwjijzyer, &c.

OBSERVATIONS ON PARTICULAR SHRUBS.

Ail-spice- tree must have a warm and dry part of
the shrubbery. The whole plant is aromatic

Aralia, thorny, is propagated by pieces of its large
roots, and perhaps many other plants might be so :
In this way, the pyramidal campanula succeeds.

Azalea likes cool ground, and rather shady ; must
be sheltered as to winds, and in this climate should
rather have a dry healthy soil, kept cool by occasional
watering during summer. Bog earth suits it best.

Candleberry myrtle is so called, from the Ameri-
cans procuring a wax from the berries of this plant
to make candles of. It is rather tender, yet likes
(as many American plants do) a moist soil ; let it be
well sheltered trom bleak winds.

Clethra is an elegant shrub, flowering all summer
and even winter; it prefers a moist soil.

Coronilta is too tender to abide severe winters, and
so we generally find even the handy sort potted.
Its flowers are very pretty, of a bright yellow. There
are other sorts more tender, which must be potted
for protection from frosts, by housing them.

Cytims, deciduous and evergreen, there is a variety
of, and all very ornamental, with their yellow flowers.
They are rather too tender for the open ground, and
the hardier sorts here mentioned, if tried abroad,
must have a dry warm situation. Seedlings should
be housed, or well protected in frames for the first
winter, but not kept too close.

Germander tree treat as tender, for though it will
live abroad, it is mostly a green-house plant.

9

328* LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX.

Hydrangea consider as rather tender, and pot
some : it can hardly be kept too moist at the roots.

Mallow tree manage a^ the cytisus, though it is
not quite so tender. All seedlings that can be
brought up in the open air, make much finer plants.
The tender sorts should be put out in nursery-beds,
and occasionally protected by covering, and some
should be potted to be occasionally housed.

Poison frees, even the touch of the leaves of these
plants wiii affect the skin, but the sap is very (even
dangerously) acrimonious.

Pomegranate must have a good south wall, and
rich soil. The double sort should be occasionally
matted in severe frost. In very favourable situa-
tions, however, they have succeeded in espaliers,
dwarf, half, and even full standards. The best sea-
son for planting the pomegranate is in spring, when
just beginning to shoot. It is rather rude of growth,
and must therefore have timely training. The prin-
cipal pruning should always be in autumn, and from
time to time all straggling, superfluous growths taken
off, that shoots may be encouraged to put out strong
blossoms, in the fullness of which the great merit
consists. These bearers should be six inches, or ra-
ther more, asunder. The mode of flowering is at
the ends of the young shoots : nothing equals this
plant in fineness of blow. The double sort is more
commonly planted; but the single flower is very
beautiful, and its fruit, which will ripen in snug fa-
vourable situations and seasons, makes a fine show
also, especially when burst. Both flowers and fruit
are of a very fine scarlet.

Rose claims precedence of other shrubs. In its
varieties it should be planted in all situations ; but
the Provence more particularly. This shrub, in
most (if not all its sorts) does best in a cool strong
soil.

SECT. XIX, LISTS OF TREES, &C. 329

The order of blowing may be reckoned thus : Cin-
namon, (sometimes called the May-rose) monthly
damask, burnet, Scotch, Pensylvanian, apple, &c.
Then the latest roses we have, are those of the
monthly again, and the musk. Occasionally every
sort may bear a few late ones, but chiefly the Pro-
vence. To encourage this shrub to treat us in the
latter part of the year, pulling off the first roses, as
soon as they begin to decay, is a means ; but to pull
off all the buds, at the usual time of blow, from a
few trees, is a more certain method. A more sure
way still, is to top the new shoots towards the end of
May, or prune down to two or three eyes : These
manoeuvres should be particularly exercised on the .
monthly sorts. Transplanting roses in spring is a
means to effect a middle blow ; and if into a North
border, and cool ground, this may be done late in
April, or even in May, (occasionally watering)
pruning at the same time short. Early roses are
obtained by being trained against a south wall. The
monthly thus planted, and having glass (as the light
of a cucumber frame) put before it, will sometimes
come as early as the end of April, or beginning of
May. Some put moss round the roots of these
wall trees in March, to keep the ground warm and
moist, iu order to forward large roses*

To dispose rose trees to bear forward, the not suf-
fering any flowers to blow the present year, and
pruning short in July, or August, is a means from
which much may be expected, especially if there is
any artificial warmth used in the spring to force them.
With a view to this, some good brushy rooted, low
growing plants, may be potted in autumn, not suf-
fered to bear the next summer, and being pruned
down (as above) will force well the next spring.
Rose trees potted for an ordinary blow, must not be
10 too small pots, nor placed in a warm situation,

330 LISTS OF TREES, &C- SECT, XIX.

except early in spring, and must be kept cool by
frequent watering.

As to the propagation of rose trees, many will
send forth suckers enow, and those that do not,
should be layered, by slitting (^as carnations; or
budded ; but may be two years before they root.
See page 69. Some will coine by cuttings, but
uncertainly, as the burgundy, £c. The China ever-
green, or everbiowing rose, takes well by cuttings,
and is now found to stand our winters well, being
trained to a warm sheltered wall, in severe weather,
something beiwg put about the roots, or a mat be-
fore it. There are two colours of this rose, pate and
deep red ; some however of these should always be
potted. The bur net y apple, or any other sort pro-
ducing good seed, may be propagated by it ; but it
is a slow way, the seed seldom coming up till the
second year. The double yellow rose blows indiffer-
ently, but when fair, the flowers are very beautiful.
Plant it against an east wall, and in dry, but strong
ground : 1 suspect an insect makes it fail.

Snow-drop tree is considerably ornamental. Layers
will be two years in rooting, If raised from seed,
(imported) sow it as soon as it arrives, in pots, or
boxes, and house before frosts come. If they
come not up the first year, set them on a gentle
heat the following spring, and they will soon ap-
pear. Shelter the seedlings in a frame, or a green-
house.

Tutsan grows wild in woods, and will therefore do
well in the shade, as among trees. Every shrub, or
plant, that will flourish in such a situation is valua-
ble ; and a gardener's attention will be well employed
to discover them, by trials, &c. The St. John's wort,
and -St. Peters wort (allied to tutsan) may be planted
in the shade.

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 531

Willow herb, as its roots run much, should some
of it be put in large pots ; and as it loves moisture,
may be set in the shade, and kept well watered.

V.

LIST of evergreen trees, some of which are consi-
dered as forest, or timber trees.

* Arlor-vitx, common American and Chinese, s. I. c.
Andromeda, or Carolina sorrel tree, s. /. su. July, m.
Arbutus, com. and scar, fl.sing. and doub. s. I. c. in. Nov.

* oriental, broad leaved, d.

Bay tree, common, doub. fl. and striped leaved, L*. su. d.
Box tree\ broad and narrow leaved, .<>. /. si. c. See list ().

* Cedar of Libanus, Carolina, and Virginia, s.

Phoanician, Lycian, and Bermudian, s.

Cork tree, see the article oak.

* Cypress, large common upright, and male-spreading, s.
< Portugal pendulous, or goa cedar, s.

— — • the lower upright, or pyramideal shaped, s.

* Fir, spruce, Norway, American sorts, &c. s. See Pine.

* — silver, (i. e. the pitch fir) and balm of gilead, s.

* — — hemlock, and variegated balm of gilead, .s,
HoUy, several plain, and many variegated sorts, s. I. gr. b.

• Dahoon, and Yapon, or S. sea tea tree, ditto

Juniper, Swedish, and two Spanish sorts, s.

— — — see cedar, Virginian, (i. e. the red) &C.
Laurel, com. cherry bay, and striped sorts, Lc. s. su.
' Portugal, reddish wood, bright leaves, ditto

Maple, evergreen Cretan, /. c. su.

* Magnolia, or laurel leaved tulip tree, /. s. c. August

* Oak (ilex) common evergreen, br. and nar. leaved, 5...

* — Montpelier, or holly leaved oak, s.

* — — - cork tree, broad and narrow leaved, 5.

* — Molucca, or the American live oak, s.

* scarlet bearing, or the kermes oak, 5.

* Pine tree, wild Scotch pine, commonly called j£r, $.

* • pinaster, stone, mountain Siberian, s.

* — « • — Weymouth, torch, or Virginia swamp, 5,

532 LISTS Or TREES, &C. SECT. XIX,

* Pins tree, Carolina swamp, or pricklv coned, &c. s.
-Privet, common evergreen, white flower, s. sw. /. June

* Pyracantha} or evergreen thorn, red berry, *. /. c. May
SuviHf large upright Portugal. See next hst,s. /. c.
Spindle tree, American plain and striped evergr. &. /. c.
Strawberry treer see arbutus in this list.

1, short, narrow, broad, and striped leaved, s.

- *^* Some of these, though they attain, in the course of
Tears, considerable height, may be occasionally considered
as large drubs, instead of trees, and planted accordingly :
Skilful pruning will help to keep large shrubs down, and lead
others to mount.

OBSERVATIONS ON PARTICULAR TREES.

Andromeda tree should have a dry soil, and shel-
tered situation: protect first winter after planting.

Arbor vita, though both sorts are in estimation,
yet the Chinese is most ornamental. Naturally they
are of large growth, and hardy, yet sometimes the
Chinese sort is kept in pots, as an agreeable compa-
nion (for a time) of other exotic evergreens. f

Arbutus may be propagated from the first young
shoots of the summer, planting them in pots, and put-
ting them in a moderate hot-bed, (rather of bark)
covering close with a hand-glass that is air tight; and
thus most tender shoots of woody plants, which are
found difficult to strike, may (most probably) be
twade to grow, as the bay, celastntsy cypress, &c.
They may be tried on a warm border, keeping the
earth cool, and the glasses close. If the cuttings
are planted just within the glass, watering well
round the outside will reach them, and thus they need
not be uncovered: If the glasses are taken off for
watering, it is not (however) material, if they are
carefully fixed close again. As soon as the cuttings
appear clearly to grow, air must be given them. See
next list.

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 333

Bay, the common plain sort is rather tender, and
requires a situation sheltered from bleak winds ; but
the variegated and double flowered sorts are ten-
derer still ; and as they rarely succeed well abroad,
they are commonly considered as green-house
plants.

Cedar, the Bermudian, is tender whilst young, and
should have a favourable situation afterwards.

Fir, there is a variety of each species, denominated
from the number of leaves, and the shape and colour
of the cones. The balm of gikad, and hemlock,
sorts, are the lowest growers. To »et the .seed from
the cones, lay them before a good tire, so as not to
scorch them; and if they come not out well, after
heating this way, bore a hole up the middle, and
drive something of iron in to split them.

Oak, the evergreen sorts are excellent limber, and
very ornamental in pleasure grounds : See page 27.
The red excrescences upon the kermes oak, are oc-
casioned by insects making insertions in the bark for
depositing their eggs, which causing an extravasation
of sap, it there condenses, and forms the little gra-
nulous substances, used for scarlet dying.

Pine, there are several other sorts of less estima-
tion. The Ifaymouth and torch pines are the
loftiest, and the Carolina swamp the lowest growers.
To get out the seed, observe what is said above, as
the pine cones are harder to open than the firs.

Pyracantha requires some support of stakes, pales,
or wall, though it may be trained as a standard bush,
or form an hedge impregnable. It is very pretty
when in full fruit ; but it so often misses bein| so,
through bad pruning, that it is got much out of re-
pute: See page 179. Tt does best in a dry poor
soil, and an eastern aspect. Young cuttings, in
June, will strike, being potted in good earth, and set
in the shade till autumn, and then plunged in the

334 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX.

ground under a warm wall. See observations on the
Arbutus above.

VI.

LIST of low evergreen trees and shrubs.

3 Adams needh com. and Virginian, pur. and wh. s. r.

4 Alatenws, large, variety in leaf, pi. and str. s. /. Feb.

3 — lower growing, ditto

1 Arbutus, trailing, or Uva Ursi, c. si. I. Nov.

1 Andromeda, box leaved, Canada, 5. sti. c. July m.

4 Box-tree, white and yel. striped, c. I. See last list.
1 __ dwarf, plain, and striped leaved, si, 1. c. s.

4 Briar, svv. evergr. doub. red and yel. fl. su. I. b. May

1 Bugloss evergreen trailing br. leaved, blue s. May

2 Butchers broom, common, knee holm, or holly, s. r.

2 • br leaved, or Alexandrian laurel, 5. r.

1 long leaved, or Alexandrian bay, s. r.

3 — : large, or shining leav. Alexan. bay, s. r.

3 Celastrus, or staff tree ( Bastard Euonymus) s. 1. J uly

3 Cist us, poplar leaved, gum, 8tc. several, wh. s c. May

4 Clematis, evergreen, or Spanish climber, c. I. s. Nov.

5 Cytisus, hairy evergr. Spanish, ye!, fl. s. c. June, &c. d.

2 Austrian, large and small flow. yel. ditto

2 Furze, com. yel. and white flowered, s. ditto
3 French, yellow flowered, ditto

4 Groundsel tree, ivy leaved, ol ander 8tc. wh. fl. 5. /. c.

4 JZzrea Ear or Ethiopian Hartwort, yel. s. c, July

1 Heath, com English pur. wh. and yel. flow. /. r. s. July

1 Hyssop, com and striped leaved, (see p. 268) s. si. c. June

3 Jerusalem sage, yellow and purple flow. r. /. c. June

4 Ivy, tail plain, wh. and yel. strip, c. I. s*fi. Sep. fr. Jan.

2 com. dwarf black and yellow berried, ditto

1 Germander tree, yel. wh. and purple flow. s. si. c. July, d,

1 Horse tail, shrubby, the greater and less su. r. July

4 Juniper, common shrubby English, yel. flow. s. April

4 Honeysuckle, evergreen scarlet trumpet, c. L s. June

4 Katntia, broad leaved, pale red flow. s. su. I. July

3 - narrow leaved, bright red flow, ditto

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 335

2 Kalmia, hairy leaved, reddish purple flow, ditto
1 glaucous leaved, pink dower, ditto

1 Lavender cotton, com. and rosem. (see p. 268) yel. r.f. Ju.

1 <* , sea, com. and shrubby Siberian, bl. r. sL c.

2 French, (staechas) yel. flow. r. si. c. June

3 Lauruslinus, com. br. and nar. leaved, /. s. c. Aug. &c.
3 hairy, shining, and striped leaved, ditto

4 Moon-trefoil, (medicago) shrubby, yel. flow. May, &c.
4 Phillt/rea, mock privet, or privet leaved, s. L Match

striped, box leaved, bay, rosemary, &c. do.

1 Periwinkle, trailing and upright, blue ft. /. c. su. Feb. &c.

1 .— _ doub. fl. and white and yel. striped, ditto

2 Purslane tree, (sea silvery leaves,) com. and Spanish, c.

2 Ragwort, common sea, hoary leaved, s. c June, &c. d.
4 Rhododendron, large, or laurel leaved, red. fl. s. I. Aug,

3 dwarf, or the Pontic rose bay* s. /. Aug.

4 Rose, common musk evergreen, \vh. flow. /. su. Aug,

4 Rosemary, com. plain, and variegated, c. /. si. June, d. •

3 Rue, broad, narrow and striped leaved^ c. L si. June
3 • Aleppo, broad and narrow leaved, ditto, d.

3 Savin, common plain spreading, and variegated, s. L c.

4 Smilcuc, or rough bind-weed, wh. li red fr. /. r. s, June
1 Widow aw7, (cneorum)_a trailer, pi. fl./c. /. s. May, &c.
1 Wormwood, sea, or lavender leaved, and Roman, sL r.

*#* If the tenderer sorts of these shrubs are judiciously
planted, they may succeed abroad, and are worth the
trial, as their place may, at any time, be easily supplied
by some shrub from the nursery. While young,- -for a
winter or two, in severe weather, a few bushes laid round,
and. a little peas hauim on the top, would save many a cu-
rious exotic, when they are nearly hardy enough to endure
our climate.

OBSERVATIONS ON PARTICULAR SHRUBS.

Adams needle (yucca) is somewhat tender, and
should be put out of the way of cutting winds.

Andromeda tree, is too tender for the open ground
in general, but has survived abroad in moderate
winters, being in a favourable situation. It natu-

336* LISTS, OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX,

rally likes a moist soil ; but keep the roots dry after
cummer.

Cistus, all the sorts are rather tender, but if
brought up as hardy from the very sowing as may be,
and planted in a dry soil, shelter and sun, will stand
ordinary winters abroad in the shrubbery, and prove
delightful ornaments: Cuttings do not make so fine
plants as seedlings, but are hardier.

CitysuSy Spanish, must have a dry warm situa-
tion.

Germander tree, is generally considered as a
green-house plant, yet some say it will endure or-
dinary winters abroad, with proper management.
Risk of experiment in these cases, or the trouble at-
tending, should not be minded, for if a shrub will
live and do well abroad, it is surely much better
there; and it has been found that things will do so,
which have been even used to be housed, even in
stoves.

Groundsel tree, or ploughman's spikenard, must
have a snug situation abroad, as hard frosts are apt
to cut it ; and if it is potted and housed, it must
have a great deal of air, as it only needs protection
in severe weather. This is an argument for trying
all things abroad, of which there is a chance of doing
well, for they cannot have the air they require in a
green-house, where are so many plants of a tenderer
nature.

Hares-ear is a handsome shrub for the south front
of a plantation ; — somewhat tender.

Honeysuckle* evergreen, allow it a sheltered situa-
tion, and let it be as much as possible in sight.

Moon-trefoil is a very beautiful evergreen, flower-
ing from May to October ; but as it is tender, must
have a dry warm situation, and then a little attention
of cover in hard frosts may secure it

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. S3?

Phillyrea in all its varieties, though rather a ram-
bling grower, is considered as one of the standing
ornaments of our shrubberies ; yet it has beauty in
neither flower, nor fruit, as is the case with some
other plants, (particularly evergreens) being retained
only for their foliage. The striped sort should have
a sheltered situation, which is indeed a thing neces-
sary to all variegated plants, as their ornamental na-
ture, in this respect, is the consequence of hereditary
weakness.

Periwinkle is a pretty under shrubby evergreen,
if properly kept up to the lower part of pales, or a
wall, or the larger sort may be trained to a low
stake, or even kept as a little bush. It is very well
to confine the roots (being so apt to run) by slaty
stones, or tiles: It succeeds well in shade and mois-
ture.

Purslane tree, the Spanish is not so hardy as the-
common sort, but will generally survive our winters,
in good sheltered situations.

Ragwort, this sort (as all the others) used to be
housed in winter ; but will stand abroad in a warm,
sheltered, dry situation, and its hoary leaves are very
ornamental, though there is no great beauty in its
flowers. When raised from seed, it is apt to get
greener in leaf, and therefore it will be best raised
from cuttings, which should betaken from the whitest
plants. A likeness to original plants is frequently
lost from propagation by seed, but is assuredly main-
tained from cuttings and layers.

Rose, the Musk, will need support, being weak
and trailing; train it to a sheltered wall.

Rosemary will not do in all situations. See page
€73.

Savin variegated leaved is beautiful : grows slow.

Smilax, as it is trailing, or climbing, is commonly
planted to run up the trunks of trees, &c. It may

Z

338 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX.

be trained to tall stakes, and should be planted in
sight, as in the front of plantations There are se-
veral sorts of it, and the bay-leaved Virginian has
black fruit.

VII.

THE FLOWERS in the following list of annuals are
numbered (as the shrubs were) agreeable to their
most usual heights. The time of flowering is not
mentioned, because that will vary, according to the
time of sowing, management and season ; very few
before, or after June and July. Many of the sorts
eontinue longer in flower than a month.

TENDER ANNUALS.

4 Amaranthus tree, tricolor and bicolor.

3 .. globe, purple, red, white and striped.

4 coxcomb, com. large red, scar. yel. &c.

2 com. dwarf coxcomb colours, as ditto.

3 _ spike flowered coxcombs, a variety.

3 Balsams, double, red, scarlet, and purple striped.

3 BrowalUa, spreading, and upright, blue flowered.

2 Calceolaria, or slipper-wort, winged leaved.'

4 Capsicum) red, yellow, and white podded.

3 Cleome, prickly stalked, and five leaved.

4 Colutea, or scarlet African bladder semi,

4 Convolvulus, scarlet, (ipomaea quamoclit) a climber,

3 Eggplant, white, yellow, red, and prickly fruited.

2 Humble, or spreading branching sensitive plant.

1 Ice plant, or diamond ficoides, wh. and yel. flowered.

4 Indian shot, or flowering reeds scar. red. yel.
4 Pe.niapa.tes ph&mcia, scarlet flowered.

3 Phy satis, or winter cherry, angular, and downy.

4 • Sensitive, or Double Mimosa ; — -see humble plant.
4 Sida, or Indian mallow, heart leaved, pinL

2 Spigelia Anthelmia, or' American Worm Grass,
~4 Stramowwk, or thorn apple, double purple,. &c.

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 339

*a* Some persons cultivate the serpentine cucumber, or
melon, as a curiosity of the summer, the fruit being some-
times produced from one to two yards long, under good
management ; but it is to be remembered it will take up
too much room for a small garden.

As to the spirting (or wild) cucumber, though it may be
mentioned here, 'it is very hardy, even to sow itself in au-
tumn, come up in spring, and abide as a perenniaK Sow in
March, and allow it two yards square. This is merely pro-
pagated for diversion ; for if the fruit is touched when ripe,
it bursts and throws its fatid contents to some distance,
perhaps (wittily) over the clothes of the adventurer, and per-
fumes him highly.

OBSERVATIONS ON PARTICULAR FLOWERS.

Amaranthw, the tree sort, grows larger than the
others, and bears purple flowers. The tricolor and
bicotor are so called, from the former having the
leaves of three colours; i. e. a bright red, yellow,
and green ; and the latter of two, a deep red and
purple ; and it is for these, and not the flower, that
they are cultivated. The flowers of the globe sorts
have the peculiar property' of retaining their form
and colour a long time (years) when gathered. Clear
the seed of this flower from its downy covering be-
fore sowing, as a means of forwarding the germina-
tion.

Balsam, when double, and well marked, is a very
fine flower. The plain coloured red and white, semi-
double and single ones, are not of much account
with the curious, but may be put out in ordinary
borders to make a shew. The seed of this flower
should be nicely saved from the fullest blossomed,
and distinctly striped sorts, that have not grown near
small, or self-coloured ones. The plants selected
for seed, should be protected from the wet and cold,
after Mid-August, by putting them under lights, or

z 2 "

340 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX*

in a green-house window, where they may have the
full sun.

Calceolaria, the flower of, is esteemed only for
the curiosity of its slipper shape. The blow may be
continued all summer, by planting cuttings.

Capsicums are usually ranked in the less tender
class, and though they are in nature so, yet to have
them fine, and to fruit in time, they should be
brought forward, by being treated as balsams, £c.
at least in situations far north of London. They are
grown for the beauty and-useof their pods, which are
variously shaped, as long, heart, cherry, £c. See p.
26*4.

Clcomc is a very tender annual, (has been long
considered as a stove plant) but may come under
the cultivation of the ordinary florist, by continuing
it longer in a frame, as suppose to Mid-July, or
later, if the season is then unkind ; and then plung-
ing the pots in a warm border. When autumn ap-
proaches, a hand-glass may be set on forked sticks
over this, or any tender plant, and thus preserve it
longer.

Colutea is a perennial shrub of somewhat tender
nature, that hardly succeeds abroad. Though the
seed will come up on cold ground in high spring,
yet by sowing it as one of this class, it may be
brought forward enough to produce its beautiful
flowers the same autumn. See lists IV. and X.
In this last list it is considered as a biennial, as it
may be housed the first winter, and turned out into
open ground the following summer, and suffered to
die.

Eggplant must have a dry soil, and warm situa-
tion, but yet plenty of water in hot weather. The
blossom is not striking, but the white fruit is often
as large as a swan's egg, and with only common

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 341

management will be as big as a hen's. This plant
requires, however, to be sown forward, and should
be brought on by a third hot-bed, if it might be.

Humble plant is one of the sensitives, the property
of which is to close its leaves, or drop them upon
being touched. The common sensitive plant will
grow to eight feet in a hot-house, (which is its proper
place ;) but the humble plant is spreading, and seldom
reaches more than a stature of two feet ; for its lower
growth it is therefore more proper for our purpose
here. It is called humble from its receding and drop-
ping so completely when touched, foot-stalk and all,
as if making a bow. The humble plants are distin-
guished from the upright growing sensitives, as the
latter only closes the leaf, without dropping the stalk.

Ice plant trails and spreads wide on the ground,
makes no shew in its flower, but is beautifully covered
with chrystal drops, shining like diamonds when the
sun is on it ; or as the frozen drops of icicles. It is
not nice in its culture, or weather, though it should
not be put out too young. The best way is to plant
one in a pot of six or seven inches diameter, without
any thing at bottom over the hole ; and keeping it in
the frame till it gets too big for the pot, plunge it in
the ground a little over the rims. Thus the plant will
not be too luxuriant, but yet sufficiently nourished,
(for it has small roots) and will flower sooner, ano
ripen the seed better for this treatment.

'Indian-shot must be sown forward, and bought on
by different hot-beds to blow the same year, being
rather a tender hot-house perennial.

342 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX,

**####

VIII.

LESS TENDER ANNUALS.

3 Alkekengi, or winter cherry, angular and downy.
3 AmaranthuSy trailing, or pendulous flowered, red.

3 bloody leaved, with erect flowers, purple.

3 _ upright, reddish purple flowered.

3 Aster China, dpub'. wh. red. pur. brown, striped, &c.
2 jB.fi/S£m yellow, noli me iangere, or touch-me-not.

2 Basil, common svieet red and purple flowered.

1 dwarf, or bush Basil, a variety in leaf. See p. 203.

Ccpsicnm$, see the last list, and page 264.

2 Cqrthamw* or common bastard saffron, yellow.
2 woolly, or distaff flower, yellow.

9 Cerin/he, or honeywort, great and small, pur. and yel.

4 C'hry$anihtmwri, doub. wh. and yel. plain and quilled.
4 ~ Convolvulus major ) pink, purp. and deep purple.

3 Gerannm, African trailing, variegated flower.

4 Hollyhock Chinese, single and double variegated.
# Jacobea, purple, red, and white flowered.

1 India, or Chinese pink, sing, and doub. striped variously,

4 Indian corn, dwarf, red, yel. wh. and variegated.
JLove- apple, or tomatum, see page 27$
Lo-^e litfies bleeding, see amaranthus trailing.

1 Mignonette, see observation, next list.

4 Marigold, African, pale and deep yel. pi. and quilled.

3 French, yellow and crimson striped, velvet.

2 • dvvarf sorts of both African and Frtnch.

4 Man-el of Peru, white, yel. red, purp. and variegated.
NqslurtitU]n,ye\ and orange flow, July, see p. £?0.

1 Nolana, Peruvian dvvarf, a trailer, blue flower.

4 Palma Christi, large and small, a variety in stalk.

Persicaria, see next list.
£ Poppy, Mexican, or prickly poppy, yellow flower.

Princes Feather, see amaranth us uptight.

Scabious, sometimes made an annual, see biennials.

2 Slock, com, ten week, red, scarlet, purple and white.

- dwarf French fine scarlet, and ditto.

- Prussian, or u all flower leaved, f{itto.

£ Sweet skltanyelloYtj purple, red and white flowered.

SECT. XIX. LISTS • OF TREES, &C. 343

4 Tobacco, common broad and narrow leaved Virginian.
3 Xer anthem urn, or eternal flower, \vh. violet and purple.
3 Zinnia, yellow few flowered, and red many flowered.

*.#* The seeds of niost of these flowers will come up in
cold ground, (if not sown too early) but are forwarded by a
little heat, so as to have them much earlier, and a finer
blow, producing seed, which late plants will not. The
sdrts that most require a little heat are, aster, basil, geranium,
love apple, mar-eel of Peru, palma Christi, yellow sultan, and
zinnia.

The gourd may be added to this class; but to succeed
zcell, it should have a good south wall to be trained against,
and it will take up a good deal of room there. Sorts mb-
merous, as to size, shape, and colour. The common pumpion
(see page 253) is the hardiest ; and the warted orange gourd
is the prettiest.

OBSERVATIONS ON PARTICULAR FLOWERS.

Aster, to come forward and fine, should have a
second slight hot- bed to prick a few out upon, and
indeed this would be a great advantage to any of
the other sorts. Those not thus forwarded, will make
a second blow. The striped sorts are much the
prettiest, yet the plain ones make a good shew, and
do very well for shrubberies, &c. particularly the
superb white and red. It is a good way to plant a
IGW asters, or any flowers designed for seed, in beds
by themselves, in a way of nursery, as in the best
borders it is much neater to have all decaying flowers
pulled off regularly, as soon as their beauty is over :
Pull up all bad flowers (as soon as ever they are
discovered) from amongst such seedling plants, or
they will be contaminated.

Balsam, yellow, or touch-me-not, is more fre-
quently sown in cold ground, (as others of this list,
cartltamus, cerinthe, Mexican poppy, princes j either,
and xerantkemum) but it is worth while to afford the
assistance of a little heat. This flower is sufficiently

344 LISTS SOF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX.

ornamental to merit a place in the garden ; but is
chiefly curious for the elastic property of its seed
pods bursting with force, when just pressed between
the fingers, throwing the seeds to a distance.

Chinese hollyhock should be brought forward (es-
pecially northwards) to ensure a timely blow. See
p. 299.

Chrysanthemum, to preserve some of the finest
doubles, plant cuttings, or slips, the beginning of
September, in pots, and house them before Novem-
ber, lest the frost come ; and they will generally sur-
vive the winter, and flower much earlier, though not
so strong as those sown in spring.

Convolvulus major will need support by a wall,
stake, or otherwise, to be trailed, or run up, as a
scarlet bean. The deep blue sort is called convol-
vulus nil, or anil. The major convolvulus makes a
good shew, and may be sown in April, in the places
designed to flower; but it is the best way to sow
three or four seeds in a small pot, which being
placed on a gentle heat, will be much forwarder and
finer, and may be turned out whole (when about three
inches high) into open ground ; for this flower (as
many other annuals) does not transplant well : Nil
will not do without heat to bring it up.

India pink is now brought to blow much more
double and variegated than formerly, and it, is a very
neat, engaging flower, lasting a long time. Prick
the plants out when quite small, (tor they readily
strike) that they may not be drawn up weak, and
let them grow in single detached plants, in a dry light
soil, and they will be strong. Jf cut down as soon
as the blow is over, they will stand another year, or
two.

Marigold, the African, grows strongly erect.
There is a variety in the form of the flower, arid the
quilled sorts are mostly admired. The French. sort

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 345

grows weakly spreading, but there are beautiful va-
rieties of it from seed, which should be carefully
saved from the most double flowers, having had no
single ones growing near them. The smell of those
commonly sown is unpleasant; but there is a sweet-
scented sort.

Marvel of Peru is considered as an annual, yet
is naturally perennial in root — it is our climate makes
it annual. If the roots of those growing abroad are
taken up in October, and dried a few days, they may
be packed in dry sand, and kept in a dry place (from
frost) till spring ; when potted and placed on a gen-
tle heat, they will shoot, and come forward,

Palma Christi, the large leaved (often a foot
broad) will grow from seven to ten feet high, accord-
ing to culture, as early sown, &c. It is valued for
its noble stature, and ample foliage, therefore, some
gardeners bring it forward as a tender annual, in or-
der to produce a giant ; but it is not adviseable.
The small leaved grows to about four feet high, and
is an agreeable plant in the prettiness of its leaf.

Nasturtium is impatient of frost ; hence it has
been considered in this class of annuals, to have it
flower early. Late sown plants, if potted and housed,
will blow in winter, and live round to spring. Cut-
tings of it will grow. The dwarf sort is preferred
by some for flower borders, but is not so floriferous
as the large. There is a double tender kind, see
page 271.

Stock, ten week, (beautiful and fragrant) is the
most important annual flower we have. Every one
admires it, and its absence is always felt. It there-
fore merits every attention, to raise fine double flow-
ers, to have them early in a continued succession,
and as late in the season as possible.

There should bejbitr sowings of this flower jn the
year. Let thejirst be early in the spring, (as Mid-

346 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX.

February, or beginning of March) on a gentle heat :
and being soon thinned a little, they should be pricked
out in about a fortnight upon another moderate hot-
bed, at four inches asunder, where they may grow
till this distance is thought too crowding ; but the
best rule is, to give them their final station as soon
as they have acquired six or eight leaves.

The second sowing should take place on a little
heat, when the first plants are picked out ; and let
this sowing be presently thinned to an inch asunder ;
prick the plants out in the full ground, (or on a mo-
derate hot-bed, if you wish to forward tnem) at six
inches asunder. Here they may grow till either put
out when they have eight leaves, or stand till their
Jlower bads appear, which soon shew whether they
will be double or single ; the double having full
round buds, and the single long thin ones. But if
every other is drawn with eight leaves, the rest will
do the better, and may be taken up with large balls
of earth ; concerning the method of doing which, see
page 298. Or, every other being taken up from the
bed, the rest may remain to make a grand shew in
flower. All the single ones not wanted for seed,
should be pulled, or cut up ; then those left for the
purpose will more certainly produce good seed, i. e.
seed disposed to come double.

The third sowing is to be upon cold ground, in a
warm border, or rather under a hand-glass, the be-
ginning of May. Let the plants be thinned in time,
so as not" to draw one another up weak, and pricked
out at four inches, as soon as may be, as to showery
weather, for stocks will safely transplant very young ;
and when eight leaved, us above, let them be planted
where they are to blow. It is a good way (in fur-
nishing borders), to plant three or four stocks toge-
ther, at four' or five inches from one another, and

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 347

those that prove single, may be cut out as soon as
discovered.

The fourth sowing is designed for plants to be pre-
served through the winter for a spring blow, and
should be made either the last week in July, or be-
fore the middle of August. Plant some close under
a south wall, and pot others for housing in (but only
in) severe weather. If two or three plants are put
in a pot, the single should be cut away from the dou-
ble as soon as discovered.

The French stock is very floriferous, and most apt
to come double. The Prussian is sometimes called
the sea-green stock, to distinguish it from the others,
which are somewhat hoary leaved.

To save the seed . which is most promising for dou-
ble, mark those flowers which have five or six leaves,
by tying a bit of thread round them. A single flow-
ering plant which has double ones growing near it,
produces the promising seed; but those single flow-
ers that come out before the double ones appear, it is
proper to nip off, as also all the late flowers, which
if they ripen their seeds at all, would be weak ; a
plant having but few pods to ripen, will certainly
produce the boldest seed, and of course the largest
plants and flowers may be expected from it. Be
sure that the seed is ripe, before gathered, and that
it is kept dry, in the pods, close tied in paper bags.

Sultan, the yellow is the finest flower, and has a
very agreeable musky scene; but it is the tenderest,
and wilt hardly succeed without the assistance of
heat to bring the seeds up ; It will come, however,
if sown under a small hand-glass, that is air tight,
on a warm border. The yellow produces much finer
flowers, if pricked out upon* a second slight hot-bed.

Zinnia,' the colours of this flower, are dingy, but
yet agreeable. Some gardeners chuse to treat it as

348 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX.

the balsam ; but a moderate hot-bed will produce the
plants forward enough to ripen their seeds. Zinnia
is, however, rather impatient of cold. In May may
sow in open ground for a late blow.

IX.

HARDY ANNUALS.

2 'Adonis, pheasant's eye, or bird's eye, red and yellow
1 Amethystea, the flower is a pretty amethyst blue one

1 Alysson, sweet-scented, white flowering

2 Balm, Moldavian, blue and red flowered
Balsam, yellow, see last list, and observation

2 Belvidere, annual, summer, or mock cypress
2 Borage, variegated leaved, purp. and red, see page 264
1 Campion, dwarf viscous, or dtcarf lychnis, purple
1 Candy-tiifty common white, red, crimson, and purple
1 • bitter, and sweet-scented white

1 Caterpillar Plant, four sorts, yellow, see page 29 1

2 Catchfty Label's, red, purple, and white
Ceriiithe, or honey- wort, see last list

2 Clan/, annual pink, purple, and white topped

1 Convolvulus minor, blue, white, and striped

4 Cyanus, or corn-bottles, blue, red, pur. wh. and strip.

Devil-in-a- bush, or Fennel Flower, see nigella

1 Geranium, annual red musk, and a showy blue and pur.

1 Erigeron, or Canada flea wort, white

2 Hawkweed, (bastard) red, pale, and a deep yellow

1 Heart's Ease, or pansey, large Dutch, &c. a variety
4 Indian corn, dwarf, or maize, yellow flow, red fruit

2 Ketmia, bladder, or flower of an hour, yellow

4 Larkspur, tall, unbranched, branching, and rocket

2 . dwarf rocket, as of ditto, a vaiiety

3 Neapolitan, branched and spotted

2 Lathyrus, joint- podded, blue flowered

3 Lavatera, or Cretan mallow, red, white, and purple
2 ; — three month's Syrian, pale red flower

1 Lupine, sweet-scented, yellow flowered

3 commoiv, two blue sorts, and a white

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 349

4 Lupine hairy giant blue, and rose coloured

scarlet, see pea, Tangier

Lychnis, dwarf annual, see campion
4 Mallow, curled leaved Syrian, and Chinese, pink

•' ' Venetian, see hetmia

Cretan and a Syrian, see lavatera

3 Marigold, giant, or large common double

£ large cape, hybrid, or mongrel

1 dwarf cape, leafy, and naked stalked

1 Mignonette, (trailing) or sweet-scented reseda

3 Mulberry blight, or strawberry spinach, red fruit

i dwarf plain, and variegated leaved

Nasturtium, see observation, last list

2 Nigella, blue, white, and yellow, single and double
Normandy tuft ; i. e. red candy tuft, which see

4 Pea, sweet, purple, scarlet, white and black
4 Pea, pink and white, or the painted lady

4 Tangier, sometimes called scarlet lupine

'2 blue rlowered, or cultivated lathy rus

4 crown, rose, or cape-horn, pink and white

1 winged, or winged podded lotus, red flower

4 Persicaria, oriental, red flowered, see pages 292, 301
4 Poppy, tall, double purple, scarlet, carnation, &c.
<2 - — : — dwarf, or corn poppy, double, a variety
12 prickly Mexican, or yellow flowered

3 — chelidonium, or horned scarlet poppy

Scabious, see next list, and the observation

1 Snails, hedge hogs, and horns, yellow, see page 291

2 Snap-dragon, annual Sicilian, white flowered

1 Stock, dwarf annual, or Virginian red and white

4 Sun-Jiower, large double, pale, and full yellow
3 dwarf double ditto

2 Toad-flax, or three leaved antirhinum, yel. blue, &c.
1 Whit tow grass, white, and yellow flowered

1 Venus* s looking glass, blue, white, and purple

1 navel wort, common, and Portugal, white

Xeranthemum, or eternal flower^ see last list

*** There will not need many observations on the flowers
of this class. Directions respecting their cultivation will be
found in the last section. It was there said, that May was
not too late for sowing those annuals that come quick into
flower: — the season may be extended (for late blows) to sooie,

350 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX.

through June, or even the beginning of July, as annual stock,
candy tuft, convolvulus minor, corn bottles, heart's ease, yel-
low lupine, mignonette, sweet-pea^ and pheasant's eye. But,
if dry weather, the seeds must be watered to bring them up,
and the plants also to bring them forward.

OBSERVATIONS OiST PARTICULAR FLOWERS.

Belvidere is admired for its beautiful regular
growth. The autumn sown seed make far the finest
plants, and as self-sown ones often come up, they
should be preserved. This flower is adapted for
potting, and thus it looks well. See pages 291, 301.

Ketmia, the flower fades in a very short time, when
the sun is out ; but the plant produces a great num-
ber, in long succession.

Larkspur is seldom permitted to attain its utmost
perfection, not allowing it room enough. The large
sorts should be from a foot to eighteen inches asun-
der, and the dwarf half this distance. See page 301.
Pull up all singles. See page 62.

Mignonette is somewhat tender, and is often sown
on heat, early in the spring, to obtain forward plants,
for pricking out into pots, boxes, or baskets, to be
housed in windows, &c. As it does not transplant
well, take it up with a little earth about the roots ;
and, if convenient, put the pots, &c. on a little heat,
till rooted. Summer sown plants, if housed in win-
ter, become Biennial ; cut them down first.

Mulberry blight., or more properly blltc\ i. e.
the herb blitum, whose fruit resembles a red unripe
mulberry. It is also called strawberry spinach, from
the leaves being like those of the prickly spinach,
and the fruit like a scarlet strawberry. The plant
must be supported by a wall, pales, or sticks, or. the
weight of the fruit (not eatable) will bring them to
the ground. It looks best, and is very handsome,
when trained, which it should be, just as a fruit tree,

S£CT. XI*. LISTS OF TREES, &C.

suffering no side shoots to remain on. The seed is
near a month coming up, which makes autumn sown
plants valuable, in order to have the fruit forward
and fine. Some persons sow it in spring upon a
slight hot-bed, and prick the plants out where they
are to grow ; but to sow forward, in their proper
place (not to be transplanted) generally does very
well ; as it will then decorate the autumn, when
other things begin to fail.

Stock, annual, if sown about Mid-August, for an
edging, or in little patches, will make a pretty early
spring blow, as it is very hardy : A light soil suits it
best. This little flower is commonly spoiled by being
suffered to grow thick, which makes it trail, and

o '

ramble too much. Four in a patch, about four inches
asunder, is sufficient.

X.

LIST of biennial flowers.

9, Campion, rose, red, wh. and str. and doub. crims. July

2 . Spanish viscous, red flowers, July

2 Portugal, whitish green flowered, ditto, July

2 Canter-bury bells, blue, purple, and white flow. June

2 ' variegated, and double flow. June

2 Carnation, (or giiliflower) a great variety, see observ.
<2 Cheloue, forking, penciled, American, pink, Sept.

2 Clary, garden, a variety in leaf, pur. see page 265, June
Colutea, see sena, bladder, beiow

3 Goafs beard, greater yellow flowered, July

3 Honeysuckle,, French, red, \vh. and str. flow. June, d.

3 Honesty j satin-flow7er, or moon-wort, pur. and wh. May
2 Lions tail, Virginian, or monarda punctata, yel. July

4 Mallow, free, (proving sometimes biennial; pur. June, d.
2 vervain, ditto, red, and white, June, d.

2 Milk retch, fox-tail, (often hiennial) yellow, s. June, d.
4 Mullein, branching, phlomoide and sinuated, yel. June
2 Pen$teman} (a biennial-perennial) violet and pi. s. Sept.

5

352 tISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX*

2 Poppy, common, horned podded, yellow flower, July
4 Primrose , tree, com. hairy and smooth -stem'd, yel. June

2 Rampion, (see p. 272) a large blue bell flow. June
4 Rudbeckict) three lobed Virginian* yel. flow. July, d.

3 Scabious, pur. black, red, wh. and strip, flow. June
3 — hen and chicken flowered, purple, June

3 starry, Spanish and Montpelier, purple, July

4 Sena, bladder, (colutea) Ethiopian scarlet, August

Q Snap-dragon, red, pur. wh. yel. and variegated, June

2 red, &c. with variegated leaves, June, d.

3 Stock, Brompton, scarlet, blush, and white, May
3 - queen, red, blush, and white, May
3 Twickenham, purple flowered, May

3 . shrubby,, white, tinged and spotted, May

4 large red Dutch, and Patagonian, May

2 Sweet William, single and double, a variety, June

£ _ — mule, or sw. Wil. pink, doub. red, June

2 broad-leaved strip, and red flow. June

2 Wall-flower, large, yel. and bloody, sing, and double

1 — — white, and dvv. yel. sing, and double, May

o winter and early spring, single yellow

*£* Several biennial flowers, if sown early, or brought
forward upon a little heat, will blow the same year, only
later, as French honeysuckle, honesty, scabious, senna, and
stocks; but it is not generally desirable to attempt this, as
they do not come so fine and strong, when made annuals of.
Those just named, of course, though sown late the preceding
year, will blow the next ; but some of the biennials, in this
case, will not blow the next year, as Canter hurt/ Bells, a
few of which, though sown at their proper season, may stand
over for the second year.

OBSERVATIONS ON PARTICULAR FLOWERS.

Campion, though a perennial, should be considered
as biennial, in order to a timely supply ; it some-
times is of no longer duration. The double (as
bearing no seed) is propagated by slips from the
roots ; and it is a very fine flower. Pot some.

Carnation is seldom considered as a biennial,
though in fact it is so, as much as several others,

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &0. 3,53

usually denominated of this class ; for, after the
first blow, the plants become straggling, and flower
weakly ; it is, therefore, that they are always layered,
&c. to continue them-. The plain, deep red, or clove
scented carnation, is $& original, and an established
cultivated sort. The rest are classed under the
heads, flakes, bizarres, picqaetees, and painted ladies,
according to their colours, stripes, spots, anJ pounc-
ings. For layering, and raising carnations, see the
end of this section.

Chelone, the seed of this flower is best sown as
soon as ripe, in autumn; and coining up in the
spring, they may be planted in the borders, in Jane
and July, and will flower the same season.

Goafs Beard, the young shoots are eat (as those
oijalsqfy) like asparagus at spring.

Primrose tree, makes a pretty show, but produces
so much seed, that it becomes rather a troublesome
weed to some people. Cut the flower stems oft* or
pull up the plant, before the seed pods are ripe
enough to shed their numerous contents.

RndbccUa, or American sun-flower, 'this biennial
sort is called hardy, but should nevertheless have a
dry sheltered situation. The narrow leaved dwarf
perennial (about three feet) sometimes proves bien-
nial, and may be sown as such, a little every year,
by those who would extend their culture of flowers.

Scabious has been noticed in the two last lists as
an annual, which it becomes, if sown early ; and
some gardeners make a point of doing i: on a little
heat to forward them. As a biennial, it should not
be sown too soon; but if forward plant < are trans-
planted in June, it will .prevent their fl )wering till
next year, when they will come verj fine aad strong,
and this is the way to produce good seed.

Sena, bladder, or Ethiopian scarlet colu 'ea, is n>
ther tender, and the seedling plants must be potted

A a-

354 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX.

and housed, or sheltered by a frame from sharp
frosts. This flower is properly a perennial^ (see list
IV.) but as it is apt to be cut off in severe weather,
it is here considered as biennial, and may take its
chance after the first flowering. It is sometimes
made an annual of. See colutea, list VII.

Snap dragon we consider as biennial, it not blow-
ing so handsome afterwards. The variegated (as all
stripes are) is tcnderish; this must be propagated
from cuttings, as indeed the plain may be, though
the finest plants come from seed. This flower is of
longest continuance in a poor soil, and will grow and
flourish out of cracks in old walls.

Stocky or stock gilliflower, brompton. Sec. is apt to
get too rampant before winter, and when killed by
frost, it is chiefly owing to this circumstance ; for
nothing stands severe weather well-, that has grown
very freely. Hence it is used to be the custom of
florists to transplant them several times in the sum-
mer ; (even at every full moon) but to keep them
down, and hardy, by this means, tends directly to
weaken the blow, if not to kill the plant. The most
reasonable method in this business is, not to sow too
early, (or before the first week in April) to thin
them, and to prick them out in time, that they may
not be drawn up long legged ; and by no means to
let them have a dungy soil to grow in, or a very rich
one. Prick them out the first cool weather after they
have six leaves, at six or eight inches asunder, where
let them remain till August^ choosing a showery
time, (rather about the middle) to plant them out
where they are to blow; but let not this be into a
moist soil, or damp situation : It is a good way to
mix half sand in the mould that lies about the
shanks above the roots ; and when wet and frost
comes, to lay coarse, or drift sand, round about
them, three or four inches high, which remove at
6

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 355

spring. Some of the weakest plants may remain in
the nursery bed till spring, which put out in cool
ground, for in such a soil they blow best, though they
do not stand the winter well in it : Stocks blow much
finer in a showery summer than in an hot one. It
will be a great advantage to those moved at spring,
to have balls of earth to the roots, though they do
not well retain it. To dispose them to it, and make
them fitter to transplant, they may be cut round in
autumn, with a long knife, five or six inches deep,
and about three inches from the stem, making one
slanting cut under the root, at six inches depth, to
cut those asunder that strike directly down. This is
a practice that would answer in most things that are
to be removed at spring ; and if not, it would gener-
ally be of service, as the cutting off the end of a
downright root, occasions it to throw out several
others of a more fibrous nature.

Sweet William (or bearded pink) is distinguished
into broad and narrow leaved sorts. This flower
comes very diversified from seed, some plain, others
beautifully striped, and & few double, perhaps one
in thirty or forty. But the single ones are generally
so ornamental, that the want of doubles is not much
lamented. The double sorts are propagated from
layers, as carnations. The sweet William is peren-
nial, but as the plants cease to be handsome (and iii
some cases die) after the first blow, it is necessary
to raise some every year for ordinary use.

Wall-flowers, raised from seed, produce some
doubles ; but the chance is not great for fine ones,
which are to be continued from slips or cuttings in
Mai/, June, or July, plant them in a rich soil, and
shade till rooted. The double zchite wall- flower is
tender, and should be potted for housing, as indeed
other good sorts of this flower should be, and gener-
ally are.

A a 2

356 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX,

* # . * * * *

XI.

L i ST of fibrous roofed percmial flowers.

*2 Adonis, or perennial pheasant's eye, yel. r. s* Aug. m.

3 Acanthus, smooth and prickly wh. and pink, s. r. July,, d*

3 Acrimony, the large, or odoriferous yellow, s. r- July

3 hemp, common wild, red, s. /'. August, m.

2 spotted stalked American, purple, ditto

3 lower Pennsylvania^ and Virginian, wh. ditto

4 Canada, or tall purple flower, ditto

4 — tallest Pensylvanian, white flowered, ditto

1 A/i/sson, rock, Cretan, and prickly, yel. and wh. s. r. Mar
1 Atitheinis, or sea camomile, a trailer, white, 5. July

3 ox eye sor^ yellow, white and red, r. June

1 Anthyllis, double, pur. and scar, trailing, 5. r. June

4 Arum, dragon, common spotted stalked purple, r. June
1 Asarabacca, Virginieu vein leaved, &c. purp. r. May

'Asphodel, or king's spear. See the next list.

Atfer, a variety, see starwort below.
3 Auricula, or bear's ear, see observation end of list
1 Averts, com. alp. yel. and marsh, pur. &c. s. r. May, m.
3 Bachelor's button, sing, and doub. red and wh, s. /•. May

, — blue, see cyanm

3 Balm, granciittorus, purple, red and white, r. June

1 Barren&ort , alpine (epimedium) red, r. May, shade

Bears breech, see acanthus

1 Bears ear sanicle, of Matthiolus, fine red, r. June, J.

1 Bear's foot, or hellebore, greenish flower, 5. r. Feb.

2 Betony, com. Danish, oriental, pur. red. wh. s. r. July, w*,

4 jBee larkspur, common and great flow, blue, *. r. July
2 Bloodwort, or bloody stalked dock, while, 5. May

2 Borage, oriental perennial, blue flower, s.(/\ May, d.

1 Bugie, com. pyramidal blue, red and wh. r. May, m.-

2 Bugloss, com. (see p. 2fj4) blue, wh. and red, s. June.

1 , oriental training, and Viiginian, jel. s. May, d.

Q Bur net, com. (26 1) and agrimony leav. red, s. r. June
4 Bhjomj, corriiipn white flowered, red berried, s. May
Q Cacalia, alpine purple, a variety in leaf, s. r. June
Calamint, Hetrurian, see balm grand i&jrus

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 357

4 Campanula, pyramidal, or steeple flow, blue, s. sL Aug.

i « grandirlora, and Carpathian, purp. s. r. July

— see Tliroatwort. Campion, see last list.

1 Candij Tu/t, round leaved perennial, wh. r. c. June

3 Cardinal flower, scarlet, blue and violet, s. r. c. Aug. d.
Carnation, is properly a bieiiiiieL See the last list.

2 Catchfly, or viscous campion, doub. red and wh. r. June

4 Centaur i/ 1 great pur. and vvoad leaved yel. s. r. June ,^> \

2 Cheloue, Virginian, &c. wh. blue, red and pur. r. Sep.
4 Chervil 9 perennial, or sweet fern, white, s. Jane

1 Christmas rose, or black hellebore, white> r. January

4 Clary, Indian blue, and glutinous yellow, s. r. June -, ^ |

3 Columbine, com. plain, striped and spotted, s, r. June

3 feathered, (thalictnun) \vh..and pur. ditto

0 mountain, or a! pine, large blue, s. r. May

1 Canada dwarf early, red with yel. s, r. Arj

Cookoo flower, or meadow pink, see ragged robin

4 Coreopsis, vtrticillate, yeliow, a long bow^ ?•. July

1 Cowslip, double yellow, arid double scarlet, ;•. May

1 American, or Meadia, purple, s. offs. May

'2 Crowfoot, meadow, double yellow flowered, r. May, \(

1 mountain, double white flowered, r. May

(2 Cyanus, mountain, or perennial blue bottle, s. r. J uue
1 tiaisy, wh. red, scar, variegated^ coxcp^mb> 8tc. r. April

1 globe, (globularia) a fine blue flower, r. June

3 ox eye, American and Monlpeller, wh. s. r. July

Michaelmas, see starwort ti adescants

2 Dodartia, oriental, deep purple flower, r. May
Dodecatlieoii , see cowslip American

C Dog's bean, willow leaved, purp. and wh. &,c. r. July
i. ~ (Asclepias) Virginia orange offs. July

3 Dragon's head, Virginia purple flowered, s. r. August

2 i — hyssop leaved, blue flowered, s. June

3 Eryngo, or sea holly, Ameihysiine, and Russian, s. July
2 — — maritime English, and Aquatic .American, ditto

2 Eternal fioicer, pearly, or white everlasting, r. June

3 Free) jew, two doub. ft. and a curled leav. wh, s. r. c..June

4 Figwurl, Spanish, elder leaved, red and gr. $. r. sL c. July
4 — — aquatic variegated leaved, ditto

4 Flax, perennial Siberian blue flowered, s. June

3 For-glove, pur. red, wh. and iron coloured, s. r. June

2 great and less yel. and Spanish purp. ditto

American, see monkey flower

358 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT, XIX,

3 FraxineUa, white and purple flowered, s. r. June

3 French honeysuckle, Canadian, red, wh. pur. s. June d.

3 15 sensitive, branched, yellow, ditto

1 Fumatory, diffused, branching, yel. and \vh. * June

2 i — upright American, purple, ditto

3 Gentian, great yellow, and purple flowering, 5. July

1 asclepias leav. and cross-wort, blue, s. r» May

1 Gentian etf a s fine azure blue flower, s. r. May

1 Geranium, (English) blue, pur. red, black, r. May

1 — African, or tender sorts, see observation

2 Globe flower, European, and Asiatic, yel. s. r. May m,

4 Globe thistle, great blue and white flowered, s. June

2 : less, deep blue, and white flowered ditto

3 Golden Rod, common Mexican and American, r. August
" till late blowing American, r. September

— New York, fleshy leaved, evergr. r. Oct.

— lowest, or dwarf Pyrenean, r. August

2 Goldy locks, German, a bright yellow flower, r. c. July
1 Haickweed, (or grim-the-collier) orange col. s. r* July

1 _„ great yel. or French goat's beard, s. June
Hedge Mustard, single and double, see rocket yellow

4 Hellebore, (veratrum) wh. black, and yellow, s. r. May

2 Helonias, two sorts, wh. and cream col. s. off. July

1 Hepatica, red, blue, wh. and str. sing, and doub. r. Mar.
1 Heart's ease, or tricolor violet, yel. pur. wh. r. April.

Herb bennet (geumj see avens

4 Herb Christopher, com. and long spiked, white, s. June
4 Hollyhock, com. doub. wh. yel. pink, red, sea. &c. s. Augc

fig-leaved, or palmated, a variety, ditto

• Chinese, or painted lady, see list VJ II.

1 Ladies mantle, com. fringed, Alpine, &c. r. s. May
1 Ladies smock, double pur. and double wh. r. May, m.
1 Ladies slippers, yellows, purples, red, &c. 5. r. May, ?;?.
1 Ladies Jinger, (Anthyllis) scar. doub. fl. s. June
1 Lavender-sea, &c. wh. and blues, r. si. c. July

1 Lilly of the valley, wh. red, Mr. sing, and doub. r. May, wzt

2 Lion s foot, sing, and doub. blue flowered, 5. r. June, d.

2 Lions tail, scar, and pur. fl. pi. and str. leaf, r. si. c. July
1 London pride, or none-so-pretty, spotted flow. r. May

3 Loosetrife, common great yellow flowered, r. June
3 , — willow-leaved, white Spanish, ditto

5? ciliated Canadian yellow, ditto

1 — . — money-wort, or herb twp pence, yel. ditto

3ECT. XIX. LISTS OF TliEES,,&C. -359

Lockstrife, see willow herb, list IV.
Q Lupine, perennial Virginian blue flowered, s. June

1 Lungwort, common, blue, purple, and red, r. s. May

0 . Virginian, blue, red, pur. and wh. fl. r. s. May
3 Lychnis, sing, and doub. scar, pink, and \vh. s. r. c» July

3 .. Chinese, fine orange-coloured How. ditto,

2 Lychnidea, red, pur. blue and wh. sw. scented,, .r. c. ,
Madwort, see AJysson

2 Mallow Virginia, smooth and rough leaved, wh. s. r.

1 Marsh Marigold, double flowered yellow, r. April, m.

2 Master-wort great black rooted, yellow, r. June

4 Meadow rue, common and Montpelier, yel. r. s. June, m.
Michaelmas daisy, is starwrot tradescants, which see

I Milkwort, com. and bitter, blue, red, wh. &c. s. June, d.

3 Milk i' etch, goat's rue- leaved, and oriental, yel, s. July

1 _— (Anthyllis Montana) purple, trailing, s. July

2 Monkey flower* or American fox glove, blue, r. s. July

3 Morina, pur. wh. pale and deep red, s. off. June

3 Mugrcort, silv. str. and gold str. pur. r. June

4 Mullein, yellow, purple and iron coloured, r. s. June
1 myconic borage leaved, trailing, blue, ditto

1 Naze/wort, perennial trailing, blue flowered, r. c. April

Orchis, biennial, see next list

Orobus, see vetch, bitter
C Orpine, the greater, purple and white, si. c. July, cL

1 the lesser, (anacampseros) a trailer, pur. ditto

1 t,ue, (telephium) white flowered, s. r. si. c. July

4 Ox-eye-daisy, American and Montpelier, white, /-. July
o> - corymbus flowering, white, ditto

Pasqueflower) see next list

4 Passionflower, com. palmated blue rayed, c. I. $. su. July
4 Pea, everlasting, red, scar. pur. and large fl. s. r. June

Ptfony, being tuberous rooted, see next list
1 Pink, common, red, white, plain and fringed, damask

1 red cob, white cob, painted lady

1 maiden, or matted, and grey leaved mountain

1 pheasant's eye, &c. a great variety

3 Plumbago, or European leadwort, blue, pur. wh. r. Oct.

1 Polyanthus, a great variety in flower, s. r. April

2 Poppy, oriental scarlet, and Welsh yellow, s. r. June

1 Primrose, white, red, scarlet, doub. yel. 8cc. r. March

3 __ — tree, the larger, (perennial) yel. s. r. June

C Ragged robin, or meadow pink, double red, s. r. May

360 ttfSTS OF TREES, &C. SECT.

4 Reed, Portugal, or Spanish, variegated leaved, affs>

% Rest harrow, common purple, with red flowers, s. May

3 Rhubarb, corn, arid weaved leaved Chinese wh. s. June

4 — . . " palpated Chinese, and large Tartarian^ &c.

2 fyocketj sing, and doub. wh. pur. and red, s. c. r. June
2 ; * double yellow, or double erysimum, r. June

4 ']Rudbeckia, jagged leaved Virginian orange, r. s. July

2 «_. -« dwarf .hairy, yellow, purple, 8cc. ditto

1 Rush, sweet flowering, pink, wh. and pur. r. July, w.

1 Sangiiinarea, Canada, (puccoon) sing, and doub. wh. r.

2 Sanac'eha, or side-saddle flower, pur. and yel. s. r, July
4 'Saw-wort, New York and Maryland, pur. flow.?-. June

3 Saxifrage, pyramidal, often called sedum, see next list

2 — — - spotted hairy, and strawberry, wh. ditto

1 'i- ladies cushion, a low trailer, wh. ojf. May

1 _ _, — golden, two sorts as to leaf, yellow, r. July

„ — ___ double flowered, granulated, see next list

4 Scabious, perennial Alpine, blue flowered, si. c. r. July
2 oriental, silvery, and grass leaved, s. July

5 Sculicap, tallest, or nettle-leaved, purple, s. June, d.
Q ., Alpine, violet, and white flowered, ditto

Q ... eastern, germander leaved yellow^ ditto

Sea pink, see lavender and thrift. Sea Gate, see p. 257.

3 Sena, wild, or Manlandic, (cassia) r. .s. July, d.

1 Sisynnchinn , Virginian and Bermudian, blue, r. s. Juno
. see 'iris, next list

2 Sntezezfort, double flowered white, r. s. July, m.

j . „ — _ hoai7 yel. and silvery leaved wh. r. s. July

3 Soapwort, double flowered, purple, and scarlet, r. July
1 Soldamlla, purp. blue, wh. and fringed, r. March, m.
3 Sofamans seal, many flow. sw. scented, &c. r. May, m,

3 Sophora, oriental, fox-tail-like, blue, r. s. July

4 , four- winged-podded, yellow, r. June

1 — : tinctorious Virginian, trailing, yel. r. s. July

Speedwell, see Veronica

Spider wort, see next list
1 Starwort, dwarf alpine, purple flowered, r. c. June

1 . dumosus, bushy white flowered, r. c. Aug.

Q . — sea, or tripolium aster, blue, r. c. July

3 _, . flax leaved blue flowered, r. c. August

4 — .New England, violet coloured, r. c. Sept.

4 _ tradescants, a pale blue flower, r. c. October

3 — , Catesby's pyramidal Virginian,, blue, r. c. Noy,

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 36l

*2 -Sfartfort, Italian, large bright blue flower, r. c. Nov.
1 -Stock, dwarf shrubby, or. window flow, red, 5. June
1 Stone crop, small and great, trailing, yellow, c, r. July

1 — . poplar leaved, upright, pinkish, ditto

4 Sitffjtoti'er, many flowered, com. double, &c. r. July

5 Swatfow-'ocbrt , common wh. black and yellow, s. r. June
3 Thrifty greater and smaller, red, scar, and wh. sf. r. June

3 TJkroalr&ort, great, double wh. blue and pur. r. June

4 . giant, blue, white, red and striped, ditto

<2 dwarf, small tine blue flower, 5. Juue

2 Toadjiax, a variety ye!, pur. and wh. si. c. r. July
1 • dwarf Alpine purple flowered, ditto

3 Valerian, common red and \vh. mountain red, s. r
2 Greek, pur. wh. and variegated, s. r. May

4 Veronica, a variety, blue, white, and blush, r. s. June •
1 — ~ — — dwarf blue and wh. and Welsh blue, ditto

3 I twain, common, and spear leaved, blue, s. r. June

4 Vetch, white Wood, tufted blue, s. r. July

3 bitter, (orobus) a variety, blue and pur. s. r. Maj

£ Siberian, unbranching orobus^ yel. s. r. April

• — — see orobm, next list

1 Violet, com. blue, pur. and wh. sing, and doub. r. March
J - Austrian purple, and Ceiiissian blue, r. April
1 — — — Alpine, double red, and pin plej, r. March
1 yellow, and grandiflorus yellow, Sic. r. April

Wake robin, see arum

IVillow herb, see loosestrife

1 Wood sorrel, common white and purple, .s. June,7W.
1 Worm Grass, Maryland, (spigelia) red flower, r. July
£ Yarrow, or milfoil, the purple flowered, August

see maudlin and sneezwort.

OBSERVATIONS ON PARTICULAR FLOWERS.

Acanthus, or bears breech, is admired for the ele-
gance of its leaf. It spreads wide, and should have
jooiri allowed it, in a warm light soil, and sheltered
situation ; rather a shady, than a sunny one.

Alyssom do best in a dry hungry soil, but should
have a favourable situation, where they will blow
long and prettily.

562 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX.

Averts will grow in any cold moist shady ground.

Auricula, from the great and elegant variety of
its flower and leaf, arising perpetually from seed, is
one of the florist's chief delights, and to which he
pays much attention in the culture. It is one of the
first flowers, and ranks in nature with the primrose
and polyanthus. The sorts admitted in the present
collections, are about four hundred. The auricula,
the carnation, tulip, hyacinth, ranunculus, anemone,
&c. are called fancy flowers. For the propagation
and culture of the auricula, see the end of this sec-
tion.

Bear's ear sanicle is very hardy, yet being low, is
a proper plant to pot. It may be planted in any
cold place, and should have a dry lean soil, but be
(July watered in summer ; and most things that a
poor soil suits, must still have water freely in warm
weather. This sanicle is about six inches high ; that
of Gmelin only four.

Beto7iy, as a native of the woods, is proper to
plant in shrubberies, and shady places.

Birth-wort is tender, and seedlings of it must be
sheltered by a frame in winter.

Bryony is a climber, and is proper to grow in
plantations to run up trees, &c.

Campanula pyramidal, may be propagated (as well
as from seeds and slips) by pieces of its root, planted
about an inch and half in the ground, in a shady,
but not moist border. The finest plants are produced
from seed ; but will be three or four years before
they blow. Sow a few every year in April, in a light
fresh soil, where the morning sun only comes. As
much wet in the cold seasons is apt to rot this root,
it will be proper to guard against it, by some occa-
sional covering, when there is a continuance of rain,
or snow. A few potted may be removed under
shelter. A mat set high over is a proper covering

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 363

for a bed of them. In the summer they must never
want water, especially when spindling, or in blow.

Cardinal floicer must have a dry soil, and a warm
situation ; occasionally also a little protection. They
are commonly potted, and some should at least be
so, lest those in the open ground be cutoff: This
flower is very ornamental, but the scarlet most so.

Christmas rose is very hardy, but a dry warm situ-
ation may be allotted it : and when in flower, a little
protection to preserve the flowers in beauty, as a
hand-glass, may be adviseable. A plant or two
potted (large pots as it spreads) is agreeable enough,
at such a season, to house when in blow.

Columbine comes in great variety, and the seed
should be well chosen, which, when sown in spring,
Js rather apt to miss. Autumn is therefore prefer-
able ; and these plants will from this sowing be much
stronger. The plants should not stand above two
years after flowering, as they get unsightly and plain.

Cowslip American is commonly potted, as indeed
some plants should be, as it thus appears to advan-
tage ; but it is hardy, and grows best in borders that
.are sometimes shady, not having the afternoon sun.

Dragons head should have a moist shady situa-
tion.

Figzvort, the plants are somewhat tender, and
jtnay be only expected to stand through ordinary
winters, in a warm soil and situation. Let some be
potted for housing, lest those abroad be cut off.

Fox-gloves do best in a somewhat strong soil, and
shady situation, and will be found a useful flower in
shrubberies, &c. in all its varieties.

Geranium, (or crane's bill, so called from the shape
of the seed vessel) the exotic sorts are tender, Africa
being their native climate. As favourite flowers, the
different sorts are cultivated by all descriptions of
people, as opportunity affords to preserve them in

364 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX.

winter. They are properly green-house plants. The
principal kinds are as follow, classed according to
their ordinary height of growth :

1. Flaming, or Vervain mallow leaved, scarlet. —
Three coloured ; i. e. red, black, and white. — Ladies
mantle leaved, whitish and bluish. — Sweet-scented
mallow-leaved, white. — Gooseberry-leaved, reddish.
— Caraway leaved, or variable geranium, red, crim-
son, purple, white, &c. — Vine leaved, red and white.
—Night-smelling, yellowish with dark spots, three
sorts, — Pinnated, or proliferous, of different colours.

2 Spear-leaved, white. — Meshy stalked, or celan-
dine leaved, white. — Square stalked, flesh coloured,

3. Birch-leaved, reddish. — Sorrel leaved, blush,
plain and striped flowered, and variegated leaved. — •
Three gouty stalked, or columbine leaved, purple.
— Rose-scented, a purplish blue. — Glutinous vine
leaved, reddish purple and white. — Morse- shoe,
green leaved, variegated, silver edged, silver striped,
gold striped, pink, two scarlets and a purple, and
one large scarlet or grandiflorum.

4. Vine-leaved, bairn-scented, blue. — Shining, and
mallow leaved, scarlet and deep scarlet. — Butterfly,
or variegated flowered, with a pointed mallow leaf.
• — Marsh-mallow, or hood-leaved, purplish; and a
variety of this with angular leaves. — Rasp leaved,
flesh colour, spotted red. — Two coloured, purple and
white. See the end of this section.

'Gentianella likes a cool loamy soil, and eastern
situation, and should not be often removed, or planted
in too small pieces when it is.

Globe flower, or globe ranunculus, is very orna-
mental. The European is sometimes called locker
gowlans. They both do well in a cool soil, and north
border; though the name Asiatic seems to direct to
a dry soil, and warm situation. The case is, they are
natives of moist, shady places ; and whenever this

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 365

is the case, we may conclude such plants are organ-
ized accordingly, and that they must be accommo-
dated by us agreeable to their nature. The consti-
tution of plants is necessary to be known, in order
to their proper culture ; and a gardener cannot di-
rect his attention more to his credit, than to make
observations and experiments.

Golden rod will grow in shade, and particularly
the evergreen sort ; but being late blowers, this cir-
cumstance directs to a snug sheltered situation.

: O

Hellebore, the white flowered, is the common offi-
cinal plant. A light soil and dry situation, not sub-
ject to snails, suits it best.

Hdonias is a very elegant and ornamental plant
worthy of the most conspicuous part of the pleasure
garden. It requires only the ordinary culture of
perennials. Seeds are imported from America, as
the climate does not ripen them here.

Ilepatica is found to transplant best when in
flower ; but it should not be in small portions, lest it
wither away ; they never look well in small patches,
as is the case with all dwarf blowers. Situation
and soil the same as gentianella.

£5

Ladies smock, and ladies slipper, do best in a moist
soil and shade, as in a north border, where not many
other things do well.

Lily of the valley should have a cool situation,
and if not in a moist soil, give it at least an east
border, or where it has only a littl'e morning sun.

Lions foot is somewhat tender, and to do well
must have a favourable place in the garden, as to
sun and shelter ; it does best in a light, or sandy
soil. Let some be potted, 'it is pretty, and blows
long.

London pride used to be planted much as an edg-
ing ; but it does not answer this purpose well. "A
i'ew plants here and there in patches' is best; by no

366 LISTS OF TREES, &C. S£CT. XIX.

means allow it a good border : It prefers a moist
soil and cold situation ; let it border a shrubbery.

Loosestrife, the common, is found wild ; but it is
a showy plant, and where a variety is wanted is very
admissable. It grows in shady moist places, and
should be planted accordingly, in the borders of a
shrubbery, £c. The smallest sort is a trailer.

Lupine will be best raised from seed, without
transplanting, as the roots strike down deep : If they
are transplanted, let it therefore be quite young.

Lungworts prefer a shady situation ; but the Vir-
ginian (an elegant little plant) rather one that is dry
and sheltered.

LychniSy the double scarlet is a beautiful flower,
but not apt to encrease much at root; recourse is
therefore to be had to cuttings, which also are not
certain in striking root. In June, or July, take cut-
tings from the side shoots, (without tlower) and let
the pieces planted have three, or at the most four
eyes. Put them into a good soil, fine and rich, but
not dungy, as deep as half way between the second,
and third joint, in an east border : and keep them
cool, but not wet. A hand-glass will greatly assist
in this business, fas in all other like cases. See pink
at the end of this section. The Chinese lychnis is
rather too tender for open culture ; but in a choice
situation may abide moderate winters. It makes a
good noble potted plant among myrtles and gera*
iifums.

Lychnidea, take the cuttings off close to the
ground, and discharge the tops ; and plant them in
pots, or borders, in a place not of much sun.

Master-wort (a medicinal plant) is of no great
ornament ; but is commonly cultivated for borders
of- shrubberies, &c. as being of low growth, and
hardy nature. There is an alpine, sort.

marigold is a plant (as its name imports)

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 367

that will flourish in a wet soil ; but yet it does not
do much amiss in a dry one. In default of a moist
soil, any plant that requires one, should at least be
accommodated with a shady situation, and never
want water in summer.

Milk vetch is somewhat tender, particularly the
seedlings, which should be protected by a garden
frame in winter. Fox tail sort, see biennials.

Monkey flower is very ornamental, and of easy
culture, not difficult in situation.

Montis hood is a poisonous plant in every part,
but very ornamental, and commonly cultivated.
•Shade suits it, and it will even grow under trees, or
in any damp place, where few other things will.

Morina is worthy of a conspicuous place in the
garden. It has a strong tap-root, and should be
transplanted whilst young, that it may not be da-
maged ; but sowing in the place where it is to grow
(as directed for the lupine) is the best way.

Mulleins prefer a light soil, but like a north
border ; and the borage leaved being very low, is
proper for an edging in a cool shady situation.

Orpine^ this, as all succulent plants, should have
a dry soil and situation, and not often watered.

Passion jftozver should be planted against a warm
wall, where it may have room to spread, as it is a. very
free shooter. The sorts are numerous, (for green-
house and stove) but only this well suits open cul-
ture. In fine situations, and the southern parts of
England, there are two more, however, that may do
abroad. Prune it about Michaelmas, leaving the
shoots from two to four feet long, as the strength of
the plants, or room, dictates, and a foot asunder.
Before the frosts come, cover the roots, a yard
round, with dry litter ; and renew it with dry, when
afterwards it gets much and long wet. The branches
also should be covered with a mat (a thin one at first)

368 J.ISTS OF TREES,- &C", &ECT-. XI*,

before severe frost sets in ; but uncover as soon in
spring as may be, or, in short, in mild weather, on
days through the winter, if not too much trouble.
This flower has been sometimes trained to a stake,
in which case, shorter pruning must take place to
keep it down. It bears upon the young shoots,
which should be regularly trained in. The flowers
are the glory only of a day, but generally a great
number are produced in succession. It takes rea-
dily from cutting,?, of about seven or eight inches
long, cut in April, and planted in a good soil, kept
cool by water, and shaded from much sun.

Pink, the sorts are numerous, for seed is con-
stantly producing new varieties, occasionally one
among many that vies with its famed predecessors
in beauty, and whose superior excellence is not ne-
glected by the florist. He gives it a name as fancy
directs, and it is enrolled in the nurseryman's cata-
logue of worthies. The pink (as the carnation was)
might be considered biennially, the good sorts, being
regularly layered, &c. every year for increase : They
do, however, stand on for older plants, better than
carnations. For propagation, &c. see the end of
this section. There is a pink called the ei-er-bloow-

Polyanthus produces an infinity of sorts from
seed, and the florist pursues his object ot" obtaining
prize flowrers of this kind. The polyanthus delights
in a loamy soil, and shady situation. It is an ex*
cellent edging flower for shrubberies ; though fine
blows are not to be expected under trees, or in much
wet. An east border is the place for producing the
best flowers. For raising them, &c. see the end of
this section.

Plumbago, though it be a native of Italy, is
Hardy enough to abide our ordinary winters in the
open ground. Afford it a dry, sunny, sheltered

SECT. xix. LISTS OF TREES, &c. 369

situation, which will be a means of preserving it,
and also tend to forward the blow, as it is so late :
All plants that produce their flowers towards the end
of autumn, (however hardy) should have a favour-
able aspect, as to sun, lest winter overtake them be-
fore they can gratify us with their show.

Poppy, allow the eastern sort a light dry soil. .
Reed, Portugal, is curious for its lofty and ample
growth, but rarely flowers with us. It attains to
ten or twelve feet high, and its stems are strong
enough for walking-sticks. The 'variegated sorts
come only to half the size, and more frequently
flowers.

Rhubarb, the common serves for show^ and the
ribs of the leaves for tarts ; but the Chinese prin-
cipally, and then the Tartarian for medical uses
of the root : The Chinese is deemed the true officinal
rhubarb.

Rocket , (sometimes called dames violet, and queens
gillifloicer) the single is raised from seed, and the
double from rooted slips and cuttings. The double
is rather uncertain in continuance, and requires some
attention. Cut the stems down as soon as off their
principal show of flowering, which is a means to
help them to get strong and en crease at root ; and
it is from offsets formed in the present year, the.4"
they flower in the next. If weak, or small roots
are planted, they should not be suffered to blow the.
first year. To propagate by cuttings, do it when
the stems are about eight or nine inches long, (i. e.
before the flowering) making each into two ; and
plant them a little mpre than half way deep, in an
east border, in gjood fresh imdunged soil. Keep
them cool by occasional watering, and if the cuttings
attempt to flower, be ?ure to nip the buds off. Cut-
tings of stems that have flowered, will sometimes
grow, but they make weak plants: A hand-glass

B b

370 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX,

would be of service over them to their striking. See
pink at the end of this section.

Rttdbeckia, or American sun-flow ei\ is a little
tender, and must be accommodated accordingly.
I/ike the rocket, it is rather (some sorts at least) un-
apt to form offsets ; and therefore to encourage the
putting them forth, (without which the plant dies)
the stems may be cut down to prevent flowering ; that
is, when plants are more desired than flowers.

Rusk will be proper only for places that are con-
stantly wet, by standing water; and in such a situa-
tion they will prove ornamental.

Sarrasena is a native of the bogs si North America.
It requires therefore a moist situation ; but is found
to need protection from our sharp frosts. The whole
plant is of curious formation. It is not apt to ripen
its seeds here, or to make offsets ; so that both are
frequently imported.

Saxifrage plants are usually potted to move into
the house when in flower, as indeed the pyramidal in
particular should be ; but they are all very hardy,
except the strawberry sort, (not very handsome)
which is too tender to endure much wet and cold.

:&nna, of Maryland, must have a dry soil and
warm situation. It is annual in stalk, and therefore
the roots, may be well protected in winter : This
flower makes a very handsome show.

'Solomons seal is in greater variety, and there is one
with double flowers. ; They all suit well in shady and
moist places.

Slarworts are in -general of that hardy nature, that
they will flower almost any wlieve, and increase apace,
from the least slip. They are apt, however, to lose
their lower leaves, in proportion to the shade, cold,
and -wet, they grow in; and the Alpine sort will re-.
quire an opieh situation, though, Me the' others, 'a
stiff moist :soir suits it. There are other sorts. 'The "

SECT, xrx; LUSTS OF TREES, &c. 371

three last, as blowing late, and not rampant, may be
planted near the house.

Stock, this sort is -rather of a biennial nature, but
generally of longer duration. It is proper to pot and
place in a window, on account of its size, rising only
a few inches. It is sweet and floriferous, and alto-
gether very proper for an edging.

Sisyrmchum, allow it an east border, but dry soil ;
and as it is a small flower, pot some.

ThroatwaFty the two first sorts are classed with
campanulas. The latter, which is the proper, or
mountain blue throaiwort, likes the shade, but must
have a light dry soil. This, as the snap-dragon, and
some 'others, will grow in the cracks of walls, &c.
and continue longer in such a situation than a better ;
In some moist soils it proves often biennial.

Wkitlow-grass is a wild (medicinal) herb, that
grows on roofs and walls of old houses, and rubbish
heaps ; but makes a pretty dwarf spring flower as an
edging, &c. in a poor soil.

Worm-grass^ a very neat little plant, with a flower
bright red without, and a deep orange within.

XII..

LIST of bulbous, tuberous, and fleshy -rooted
perennials.

1 Aconite, or winter wolf's bane, yellow flower, Feb,

2 Albuca, or bastard star of Bethlehem, (least) yel. June

3 greater, or spear leaved, red flowered, June

4 — tallest, with spined "clusters of wh. flow. June

2 Anemone, doub. brpad and narrow leav. variety, May

o com. wood, doub. wh. pur. blue, reef, March

o _ A p pec j ne wood, doub. blue, pur. wh. April

o r — _ yellow wood, or ranunculus anemone, April

— — ~ ptilsatilla, see pasque jiozver

3 Asphodel) or king's spear, yellow and \vhite, s. r. June
o : . hujlow leaved, and d wad;, -white, s. r. June

B 1) 2

S72 ttS?S OF TREES, &C* SECT* XIX-

1 Bulbocodium, or mountain saffron, purple, April
1 Cokhicum, com. sing, and doub< pur; pink, wh. &c.

1 — variegated flow, and a striped leaved, Sept.

1 mountain, (Spanish) red and strip, red, Aug*

1 _ eastern, varieg. leaf, chequered flow. Aug.

4 Comfrey, oriental, blue (April) and Germ. yel. June
4 Cortiflag, or sword-lily, crims. red, pur. and wh. June
1 Crocus, spring, yellows, a variety, plain and strip. March

1 ditto, blues, purples, white, pi. and strip. March

1 - autumnal, or saffron, pur. blue, wh. yel. Oct.
3 Crowfoot, Alpine plantain leaved, white, April
— see crowfoot t last list

3 Pyrenean grass leaved, yellow, May

4 Crown imperial, sing, and doub. reds and yellows, May

4 double crowned, triple crowned, May

4 ._ — gold, and silver striped leaved, May

1 Cyclamen, European, spring and autumn, pur. wh. April
3 Daffodil) a variety of yellows, sing, and doub. April

3 «., — * double yellow, with cup in cup, April

3 yel. with wh. cup, and wh. with yel. cup, April

4 , tradefcants large double yellow, April

3 dwarf, or short, stalked yellow, March

1 ' hoop petticoat, or rush-leaved yellow, April
5 odorous, or sweet-scented starry, yel. April

— — white, see narcissus

sea, see pancratium

1 Dog's-tooth violet, purples, red and white, April

1 . narrow leaved, colours ditto, April

4 Dog's-bane, (tuberous asclepias) orange coloured, July

2 Dropwort, doub. flow, and varieg. leaved, white, June

3 Fritillary common, and Pyrenean, a variety, April

1 F amatory, solid, and hollow rooted, red pur. wh. April
Gladiolus, see Coniflag.

1 Herb-true-love, nodding, and sessile flowered, pur. April

2 Hyacinth, a great variety, white, red, blue, &c. May

3 tufted, (or fair haired) bl. pur. and wh. April

1 __ Spanish nodding flowered, red, April

5 amethystine, a deep blue colour, March

3 musk scented, purple and yellow, April

4 monstrous flowered, or feathered, blue, April

1 . grape sorts, blue, white and grey, April

lily, (yellow rooted) a blue star flow. JuKe
Peruvian starry, blue and white, May

SEICT, XIX, LISTS OF TREES, &C, 373

2 Hyacinth, Italian and Byzantine starry, blue, April

1 English starry, (autumn squill) blue, Sept,

I _ bell flowered starry, white with pur. May

«- Indian tuberous, see tuberose

3 Jonquil, single, semi and double yellow, April

4 Iris i or flag, or variety, pur. blue, yel. wh. &c» June
4 striped leaved stinking gladwin, purple, July

4 Siberian narrow leaved, blue with white, July

1 dwarf Austrian, purp. blue, red and white, May

1 vernal, or dwarf Virginian, blue, May

3 snake's head, or tuberous iris, purple, May

3 XipMum, or Spanish bulbous, a variety, June

1 Persian, bulbous, finely variegated, March

1 bulbous Sisyrinchium, blue and yellow, Jane

1 Ixia, large flowered, or crocus leaved, variety, June

1 Chinese sword leaved, yellow with red, July

4 Lily, com. sing, and doub wh, orang* and fiery, June

3 striped flowered, purple and white, June

3 striped leaved, of white and orange sorts, June

3 dwarf stalked, orange, or red flowered, June

4 -i Constantinople, dependent flowered, June,

4 proliferous, or many flowered ditto, June

4 com. martagon, or Turk's cap, purple, June

4 ditto, wh. red, imperial and double, June, July

4 pompony martagon», several colours, June

4 Chaleedoniau mnrtagons, scarlet and purple, July

4 r- suberb pyramidal martagon, variegated, July

4 Canadian martagon, plain, and spotted yel. Aug.

4 — — day, or lily asphodel, yel. and tawny red, June

J daffodil, or autumnal narcissus, yellow, September

1 atamasco amaryllis, carnation coloured, July

3 — =— Gwrnsey scarlet a.nd belladonna purple, Sept.

3 pancratium commop, and lllyrian, wh.. Aug. July

Martagom, see lily above

Meadow saffron, see colchicum
0, Moly, (flowering garlick) yel. wh. purp. and red, June

4 magicum, viftoralis, and descendens, pur. July

3 Narcissus, poet's daffodil, variety in cu,p, wh. May

3 ...I, peerless, or two coloured, wh. and yel, April;

3 — : polyanthus, or multiflorus, ditto

2 ;,... .1.1 ' . — late flowering, yellow cup, whiteA August

£ — hoop petticoat, &c. see daffodil

$ OrchiS) perennial, purples, reds, and \yh\te,

374 LIST'S OF TREES, &c; ~ SECT.

1 Orel) is biennial bee, of gnat orchis, red, June, d •,
Ornithpgaium, see star of Bethlehem

1 Oj-obui, tuberous, or wood pea, red ilower, May
—— fibrous rooted, see1 last list

4 P(co?n/} com. sing. doub. reds, pur. black, white,

4 ^Constantinople, large flower, bloc.d red, June

4 Portugal sweet scented, deep red, May

3 small narrow leaved, red flowered, May

3 dwarf, with a white flower, May

2 Pasqueflower, or Pitlsatilla, bl. red and wb. April
2 Siberian, or alpine yellow, April

Pitewort, see ranunculus ficai ia
2 lianuncuius, planted leaved Alpine, white, April

<2 ii grass leaved Pyrenean, straw col. Mayl

3 grandirlorous, or oriental great y el. May

\ . — — ticaria, or pilewort, double yellow, April

2 — • Turkey, or turban, red, scar. yel. black, Maj

1 — Persian, a great, variety, tine colours, May

• see crozvjbot, last list

2 Saxifrage} granulous rooted, double white, May

1 Snow-drop, single, semi-double, and double, white, Feb.

3 great, spring, summer and autumn sorts

4 Spider-wort, savoy (Bruno's lily] and others, wh. June, m,
4 - - Virginia (tradescants) blue, pur. Sec. ditto

4 Squill, or common sea-onion, white flower, June, d.
4 Star of Bethlehem, pyramidal Portugal, white, J une

4 ~ Arabian, or Alexandrian lily, ditK>

1 common wild, greenish 'while, May

1 — ~-: — ditto, with yellow flower, April

3 Tooth-wort, bulbiierous, seven lobed, purple, June

4 Tuberose, single and double flowered, white, July

4 Tulip, double, -a variety, yel. and red striped, &c. June.

4 — parrot, or hooked -leaved, ditto!, June

4 Turkey sorts, striped, great" variety, May

2 ditto, early dwarfs, a variety, April

2 wild European, small yellow flower, April

*#* The . propagation of flowers in tlii.s list, is generally
by offsets, or pieces of roots, having au eye, or bud, to it.
Most oi them may be raised also from seed; but this is a
tedious method, and not ordinarily practisUi, except by
curious florists. See page 504.

'

SECT. XIX, JjlSTS OF TREES, &C.' $7$

Some of this list, as most of the-bulbous and tuberous roots>
may be kept out of ground a long time, others a shorter ;
(see page 300) but those denominated fleshy roots, must
either be planted immediately, or at least in a few days.
It is common to them all to be takeh out of ground for
removal, a s soon as their leaves decay, the roots then being
in a state of rest, which is naturally longer, or shorter, in
different plants ; and if they stay in the ground till new
tibres are shot, they are always removed with damage, if not
followed by death.

OBSERVATIONS OX PARTICULAR, FLOWERS.

Albuca is too tender a bulb to endure much wet
and frost, and therefore is usually ' planted- in pots,
for putting under shelter (as in ,a frame, £c.) in
winter; but may be protected in the ,", open -ground;
by covering with a glass, or garden-pot, towards thr-
ead of autumn, to keep the roots dry; and before? -
sharp frosts come, covering round with litter. By'
such a practice, several sorts of tender things that
die to the ground, may be preserved abroad, -h

Anemone, the garden (.in contradistinction 'to the
wood) we have in great variety oi very fir** sorts; di*
vided generally into two kinds ; i. e. narrow abd
broad leaved; the latter is. the hardier. The full
doubles only are esteemed chuice flowers ; but the
semi-doubles, and singles, are showy enough for or-
dinary borders. The single, or poppy anemoniesj
(so called from their form) frequently blow. as early
as February, or sooner ; and thus.. become valuable,
for decorating the ground at so dreary, a season*
The wood kinds bear large flowers ; and are very
useful ornaments for the borders of .shrubberies^ &c.
at an early season, for which reason, they should be
planted in the most frequented shady places.

Colchicum, or meadow saffron, flowers about Mi*
y and may be kept out of ground from

LtStS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX-

(or decay of the leaf) to Mid- August. It is a re-
markable property of this flower, (not however pecu-
liar to it alone) that it makes its appearance before
the leaves, which grow all winter and spring. The •
colchicums are pretty plants for the end of the flowery
season, (October) vyhich makes them estimable ob-
jects near the house, where they may be often seen.
The flower sometimes called spring colchicum, is the
bulbocodium, which see.

Cyclqjnen, the sorts flowering in winter (Persian)
are too tender for open culture; but close under a
warm wall, with occasional protection of a. hand-glass,
they have succeeded. A culture of this nature is ra-
ther to be atfetnptedj as housing (except in places
wjjare they have 'much air) does not suit them ; the
r^ots often moulding and rotting when kept close.
The colours of the Persian sorts are red, purple,
and white. Let them have a light, and deeply dug
dry soil, not too much water, and none at all after;
the leases begin to decay ; for the roots then ceasing
"to act, would suffer by absorbing much wet, the leaves
not performing their office of drawing it up, and dis-
charging it This observation applies to all bulbs
and tubers, (in a degree) though few are' so liable to
rot as these.

Fritillary is of several colours, plain, chequered,
and spotted, white, purple, black, red, and yellow.
The kinds are broad and narrow leaved ; and there is
a large double sort, a tall Persian, (two feet high)
and a dwarf Persian, about half the height, bothi
having deep purple flowers.

Jonquil, or rusk-leaved daffodil^ has been always
justly admired for a very neat sweet flower ; but we'
do not so often meet with it as might be expected.
The single kinds are the most fragrant, and the largef
double is scentless. It is proper always to pot

&ECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 37?

in order to bring them into the house when in flower,
for their agreeable perfume.

Iris, the four first sPrts rather prefer a shady
moist situation ; but will grow any where, and are
commonly planted in odd spare corners of ground.

Lvias are, for the most part, green-house and
stove plants; but these two sorts are found hardy
enough to do ordinarily in open borders, in a light
dry soil, and warm situatiqn, a little protection, being
afforded them in severe weather.

Lily is a very ornamental and hardy flower in all
its' varieties, encreasing abundantly, and needing
only to be removed every three or four years, for
the' purpose of taking away the offsets, and renew-
ing the soil, for a superior blow. The whites will
not keep out of ground above one month, but the
orange for several. The white will flower tolerably
in shade, but the orange much better ; and as it is a
gay flower, it serves well to enliven plantations. The
martagons are generally not nice as to soil and situ-'
ation : but the scarlet and yellow sorts, and striped
lily, should have a light dry soil, and sun. The
single white lilies are very sweet ; but the doubles
are inodorous, as is the case with some other flowers,
the fragrance arising from the stamina and ant her &,
which are often smothered by numerous petals. The
Atamasco, Guernsey, belladonna, and pancratium
lilies, are tender, and should have a warm, or a good
auricula soil, a full sunny border, and well sheltered
situation ; protect also from much wet in cold sea-
sons, and afford security from frost. These are
very elegant and noble flowers, and the Guernsey
lily is equal to, if not beyond, any plant in the
flowery creation : This is, however, the tenderest of
the four : then the belladonna, and pancratium lily,
or sea 'daffodil; the atamasco is the hardiest. All
of them are usually potted for removing into shelter;

LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX,

but they may be managed (see albuca) so as to do
abroad, except in the more northern and bleak parts
of this island :,. They blow much the finer in open
ground, (all things going on well) the roots having
a free scope to. draw nourishment, &c.

Orchis is rather difficult of culture : It likes a dry
barren soil, and the roots should be taken up (from
the places it grows \v\}$) just as the leaves decay
after flowering; and with a ball of earth about them,
as then tlie chance of succeeding is much greater.
Upon removal, let them be planted directly, and re^
main in their places for years.

. P&ony, the single kinds are showy, but the dou-
bles are nobly ornamental. Let this flower have
room, as it will spread (when in full sized bunches)
a yard round : and let it bo planted out of the way
of the full sun, and of much wind, that the flowers
may continue. It need not be removed for many
years, and will grow in any soil and situation, even
among trees, which adapts it for shrubberies, £c.
The sorts are divided into male and female; and the
former, having lost its flower, produces pods, con-
taining rich crimson grains, interspersed with black
berries, that look very pretty when burst; and may
be gathered as soon, or rather just before they open,
brought into the house, and put in flower pots or
phials, &c. as curiosities. Let this root be removed
early in September, or at least before new fibres are
formed to the knobs of the roots.

Pilewort) (the double, prefers a shady moist situa-
tion; and is a -pretty wild plant, though an humble
trailer. It is called sometimes the lesser celandine^
and -alsojigwort erroneously.

Ranunculus, in all its sorts, is very ornamental;
but the Persian kinds are beautiful, and of infinite
variety. This flower is surely left too much to the
culture of professed florists'; for why should not

SECT. XIX. il£TS OF TREES, &C, 379

every garden be adorned with it, seeing, that a little*
care, and not much. skill is necessary in the manage-
ment: it is hardy and en creases freely. Seepage?
305, 308.

Saxifrage roots, of the double sorts are like so
many small peas, >and should be planted five or six
together, in order to form a full tuft of its flowers*
which are- full and white like a doubie'stock. The
stems, being slender, will need the support of a
light stick, which it is best to fix in the middle at the
time of planting, as putting one in afterwards* might
injure the. roots. All solid rooted plants are liable
to be hurt by pushing in a stick too near; for tying
to; more care should be taken in the business; than
usually is: The practice of placing a : stick at the
time of planting is best, because it may then be fixed
close : and it serves to show .where the roots are of
those that die down that, they may not be disturbed
before they again appear above ground. This saxi-
frage is usually and properly potted, though it does
very well in borders, .and makes a good appearance;

Spider-wort thrives best in shade and moisture.

Star of Bethlehem^ the two last sorts, are proper
for the edges of borders in plantations; and the
pyramidal sort is a proper flower to po.t, mixing, with
others very ornamentally : The two first should have
a light dry soil, and are somewhat tender.

tiquiU will need a little protection from hard -frosts ;
{mt is sufficiently ornamental to reward the trouble.-

Tooth-wort thrives best in -shade and moisture.. - -

Tuberose, there is dwarf stalked, and a yariegated
leaf sort of, bat. they are not so worthy of cultiva^
tion as the- common single and double;* of which
two the single is preferable, as: it blows better, Jand
is more fragrant*' See the eud of this section. , ;

Tulip (tha Turkety)*i$ classed into two sorts-;: the
taller, called scrotims, or late _ blowers'; and the

380 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX.

shorter, pnzcoces, or early blowers; some have made
another distinction, medias, but it is not necessary.
The plain tulips (as they generally are when they
first blow from seed) are called whole blowers, or
breeders', and according as they break into other co-
lours, stripes and variegations, (after transplantations)
are denominated and classed into baguettes, bybloe-
mens, verports, and bizarres. The dwarf sorts blow
early, as March and April, (the duke van tol ear-
lier) allow them therefore a warm border and dry
soil, to preserve them from frost and wet, which they
are rather impatient of, These are often potted and
forced on a hotbed, &c. or brought forward hy
water-glasses, in a warm room ; but an increase of
offsets, is only to be expected from open ground cul-
ture, and eveq there these early sorts do it sparingly.
Tal^e them up every year to remove the offsets, and
renew the soil ; and keep each sorts separate, and
plant them so, for then they will blow together, and
be all of one height. There are about fifty of thet
early sorts ; but the number of choice fancy tulip$

is (per catalogues) more than eight hundred.

******

THE following articles are detached as most con-
veniently inserted here :

Auricula is increased by parting the roots, or slip-
ping rooted offsets from them ; but offsets without
roots will sometimes strike, if well managed, by set-
ting them in a good soil, (in pots best) where they
have but little sun, and keeping them cool by occa*
sional watering. When the roots are divided,
(in August} let it be with a sharp knife ; an$ put-
ting off any cankered part, shorten also their ends,
and let not the tap part of the r^ot be too toug,.

The soil for auriculas should be a good fresh light
loamy maiden one, to which is added one third of
woodpile, or willow earth, one of sea, pr any-sharp

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 38 1

or drift sand ; and a quantity, equal to the
of rotted cow dung, or in lieu of this rather less of
hwse dang. This mixture should be well incorpo-
rated, at least a year before, by turning over, about
once a month without fail, well chopped.

In winter some protection is necessary ; but auri-
culas are not very impatient of frost, which rarely
hurts them if dry. Don ot follow the custom of gome
persons, who lay the pots on their sides in winter to
keep them dry, and to cover with straw, Sec. For a
short time about Christmas it may be allowed ; but
soon after, as they then begin to stir in the shoot, and
so it gives the bud a twist, if they remain long in
this posture. The best way to guard from snow,
wet, and severe frost, is either by frames, or plung-
ing under a south wall. Place a bit of tile at the
bottom to keep out worms ; and if the soil is moist,
lay some drift sand, or fine ashes round their sides,
and over the tops.

Dress the pots towards the end of January, for
then the plants begin to push for flower, and must be
attended to, and assisted. Strip off dead leaves.
Take as much of the top mould off as can be, with-
out disturbing, or bruising the roots ; and fill up with
the compost, a little pressed down. If the pots are
dry from the shelter afforded them, give a little soft
water in mild weather, about ten in the morning, and
fail not to water duly, as the plants push forward.

Auriculas in blow should be protected from rain,
wind, and sun, and their stems supported by little
neat slender forked sticks, or strait ones, and tied
with thread ; and when out off blow, should be set
out of the sun, but not under trees.

Shift or transplant auriculas every second year,
and that as soon as the blow is over ; those, however,
hat produce many offsets, or are luxuriant growers,

ilSTS OP TREES, &C. SECT.

may be shifted every year. The more common prac-
tice is to move all in August.

To raise auriculas from the seed, in February, fill
boxes, or pots, with fine sifted middling compost;
smooth the top perfectly level ; scatter the seeds
evenly, and cover not more than the thickness of a
shilling. Set the pots, £c. on tiles, or boards, under
a warm wall, and keep the surface moist. It is a.
good way -to mix the seed with a like quantity (or a
little more) of fine !; wood -ashes ; and to lay some
small pieces si furze, or light thorns over. Remove
them (as weather dictates) to shelter, or protect them
from cutting wind, much frost, or heavy rain, &c.
and by May expect them to appear, when take the
furze off, and cover with a net; let them have only
the morning sun, keep them moist, and when they
have got six leaves, prick them out three inches asuri-
der, in boxes, or pots ; and early in the next spring,
plant them at six inches asunder, and protect from
wet and frost.

Carnation is usually propagated by layers, (some-
times by pipings or cuttings, as pinks) about. Mid-
summer, Or as soon alter m the season as they will
admit of it, by their length and strength, and the
work' is thus :" Strip off the leaves from the lower
part of the shoot ; at the middle of it, close below
the joint, cut it half through by an upward direction,
with a thin, narrow, sharp knife, and continue the'
slit exactly 'up the middle from half to three fourths
of an inch ; peg the shoot down into the earth (be-
ino- before well loosened) as low as it will bear bend-
ing, setting the layer upright. This business must
be done with a careful hand, lest the layer should
snap off. Now, or rather before, cut off the ends-
of the longest of their top leaves, that the worms-
may not draw them in, and disturb the layer. .The

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 383

soil (fine and good) may be raised about the layers
aa occasion requires. Water them to set the earth
close, and always keep it cool In six weeks, ror
two months, they will be rooted, and fit for trans''
planting ; cut them from the old plant (at the peg)
with a sharp knife, and take them up carefully, that
their very tender roots may not be broken off, keep-
ing a little mould about them, if possible, but plant
them not deep, as they are then liable to decay.

The soil proper for carnations, is a hazelly, or
sandy loam, procured from a pasture, by a spit of
about eight inches depth, the turf being well broke,
frequently turned, and laid so long together, as to
be nearly consumed ; then add a little lime, (or not)
and one third, or one fourth, of very rotten dung,
(cows best) and let this be well mixed, till thoroughly
incorporated, which will be some months first; then
screen it, or sift through a coarse sieve. The soil for
carnations must be rich; but yet dung is found so
injurious to carnations, that some florists depend
upon a good fresh soil alone ; carnations are also
(except in summer) impatient of much wet. See to
them in the winter and give pots of them protection
from great snows arid frost, by frames, or mats oh
hoops, set rather high. Turf ashes, or those of any
vegetable, may be mixed with a fresh maiden soil,
but not too freely, for a compost: A small quantity of
fine soot, or wood ashes, may be also used. Dress
pots of carnations in March, as directed for the
auricula. Take care not to plant in too small pots.

•To raise carnation from seed, sow thin in boxes,
Or pots, (in a soil as above) early in April, and let
them have only the morning sun. When advanced
aiittle in growth, (as about Midsummer) take the
first opportunity of moist weather, and prick thenV
out at three or four inches asunder, into open ground,
and give a -little water. If dry weather, contrive to

384 LISTS OF TREES, &C. SECT. XIX,

$hade them about ten days, or a fortnight, with mats
hooped over, which remove in shady, or showery
weather. When they have grown here a month, or
six weeks, (or before August is out) plant them in
a bed, where they are to blow, at nine or ten inches
distance, and shade, if necessary. See January.
Seed is best saved from good seedling plants, rather
than those long propagated from layers, &c. Guard
dgainst mice in winter.

Geranium, African, (Pelargonium) is propa-
gated by seeds and cuttings. The former produces
the most free growing plants ; but as luxuriance is
not desirable in things confined to pots, (as gera-
niums must be) and as the propagation by cuttings
is so easy and expeditious, it is the mode of culture
that generally prevails. The young plants from cut-
tings are also hardier than those from seed. If raised
from seed, sow in April, in a light and good soil,
warm border, and under a hand- glass, keeping the
earth somewhat moist ; but it i& best to make use of
a gentle hot-bed, giving plenty of air to the plants
when they appear, on natural ground they will be
five or six weeks in coming up, and on a moderate
heat about three. If raised from cuttings, use shoots
of the last year's growth, strait and short jointed.
Plant them in a fine rich soil, two or three inches,
or at the most four deep, and eight or nine inches
asunder, or less, if more convenient. Or the rule
may be, to plant the shorter cuttings in two thirds of
their length, and the longer one half; but it is aft
error to put them in the ground so deep as some
people do. Those raised on a little heat will be
sufficiently rooted in two months to transplant into
small pots; (shortening the longer roots a little)
and those in the cold ground will be ready in three
months, and sometimes less. A hand-glass set over
geranium cuttings (or any other) will greatly facili-

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C.

tate the business, as is directed lor pinks* If. the •
cuttings are weak, or long, take the upper part off
down to an eye. It a hand-glass is not used, lay
some moss round the cuttings to keep the ground
cool. In general it may be proper to keep the cut--
tings out of ground a day, or two ; but the sott and
succulent ones should be so by all means, in order
to dry the ends, and so heal the wound, which, if
put directly in the ground, might decay and rot.

The proper season for planting is from Mid-May
to Mid- July : a little earlier, or later, may however
do : Some chuse to forward them on heat, in March
and April ; but they must not be kept close. It is
adviseable to take cuttings from towards the top of
plants, in order to keep them down ; but where they
can be best spared (as to the form of the plant) is
the general rule. Pot them in August or Septem-
ber, according to the time the cuttings were put in :
The former time is much the best, and June cuttings
will be rooted.

The management of geraniums is, to keep them
from frost, and as much as may be from harsh.winds,
particularly in the spring ; as after being housed all
winter, they are then tender, and far less -able to
bear unkind weather, than in autumn ; when having
been used to the external air, and the colder wea*
ther coming on by degrees, they 'are seldom hurt
much, but by absolute frost. 1 n the spring, they
must be brought to bear air by degrees, and the
more carefully, according as the winter has occar
sioned them to be more or less deprived of the ex**
ternal air being let in upon them. When the wea*
ther is mild in April, let them be taken out in thf .
day, (if convenient) and put in on nights ; and ven-
ture them not wholly abroad till Mid-May, or alter*
In the.summer, they should be placed in skejter and
shade ; but not under trees, or any roof : The oiprn*

Cc

586 LWTS OF TREES, &C. * SECT. XIX.

ing sun is all they should have, for more of it dries
the mould in the pots too fast, and fades the flowers.
They will want frequent watering, see page 297.
They may take up their summer residence about
Mid-May \ (as directed) but the season must govern ;
and it will not do to bring them out in a harsh one,
which would pinch up the leaves, and deprive them
of their beauty. Put them close under a south wall
for a week or two at first, or an awning of mats
might be used over them on nights.

Shijting geraniums should generally take place
once a year, from smaller pots into others one size
bigger: This may be in the first mild weather in
April) or May. Loosen, and take off the top mould
down to the roots, (without damaging them) then
turn the pot up, and gently shake it out. If the
roots adhere to the sides of the pot, give the edge a
tap upon the knee, or something else, and a little
pressure at the hole, with the thumb, or finger, at
the same time, which will help to discharge it. Pare
off the matted roots round the sides and bottom,
with a sharp knife ; and plant it in a fresh pot, (or
the same again may sometimes do) putting in as
much fine moderately light rich mould or compost,
at the bottom, as will raise the ball of earth, -which
is about the roots, within an inch of the top of the
pot; then fill round the sides, putting the mould by
little and little in, and pressing it down gently^ make
all level to the top within half an inch ; finally, give
a watering that shall soak to the bottom, and sprinkle
*soxne dry mould over. All shifted plants thould be
kept rather in the shade for a week or two till ready
to strike root.

»'r'If any sticks "are to the plants, they must be taken
away first, and replaced (if necessary) again before
watering, or rather the next day, if the plants will
stand up without. .This may be a proper time to

SECT. XIX. LISTS OF TREES, &C. 387

trim off all dangling, or too crowding shoots ; but
if cuttings are wanted for encrease, they should not
be trimmed till these are to be planted. At any
rate, dead leaves, or unsightly crooked parts, should
be discharged, and symmetry, in a snug round head,
provided for. Geraniums are free growers, and it
is always adviseable to take off some shoots to keep
them down and in form. A few of the plants, that
most need it (as least handsome or healthy) should
be severely cut, for a late blow, which generally
proves a jine one in consequence. A judicious re*
gular use of neat slender sticks is of much advan-
tage to geraniums, or other potted plants.

What has been said of geraniums, applies to all
those EXOTICS, called Greenhouse Plants, in the
management of which, it is a material thing not to
shift into too large pots, as the roots run directly to
the outsides, and so would be too hastily brought
to require the biggest pots. Another thing is, to
take off some of the top soil, not only as directed
in spring, but once or twice in the summer ; and
always before housing in autumn, and replacing it
with a rich compost, as one of almost all rotten
cow dung, which being black, is the most suitable to
the eye, cool and nourishing.

It is material to neatness, and the end of orna-
ment, (for which plants are chiefly potted) that the
pots should be occasionally washed, or scoured, and
by no means suffered to get mouldy. This is a point
so little attended to, that we sometimes see a beau-
-tiful plant in a very disgusting habitation.. It is
equally offensive, and injurious, to suffer the surface
earth to get mossy, or caked hard by the necessary
waterings ; to prevent which, often stir the surface,
and lay it smooth, which makes all look creditable.

Pinks'are sometimes layered, or more usually pro-
pagated by cuttings, or pipings, about Midsummer ;

c c 2

381 LISTS OF TREKS, &C. SECT. XIX,

and may be also by slips, set in March> April, or
May, with, or without roots, four inches asunder.
Cuttings should be young strong shoots of three or
four inches long, taken off just below a joint ; from
which stripping the lower leaves, and cutting the top
ones short, plant them in a fine good soil, about two
inches asunder, and in depth full half of their length.
They will strike root, so as to be fit to move, in seven
or eight weeks, with a little earth about their roots ;
or may be left to an early time in the spring ; but
where this is designed, they will be best six inches
asunder. They may be either put in potsy or borders,
where they are to blow, or rather into a nursery* bed,
to grow a year at six inches distance. Pipings are
obtained by drawing the heads of the young shoots
out of their sockets, of the length of cuttings. In
both methods, push the shoots carefully into the
earth, gently press the mould about them, and give
a watering ; shade also from much sun. They will
strike more certainly, and much sooner by being
covered close with a hand-glass, as much as possible
air-tight. They must be >kept cool, by occasional
watering ; but when under glass, they will not need
so much watering or shading, or may do without
any; for though the inclosed air is warmer, it is
always more humid, which refreshes the cuttings
with answerable supply for their support; and it is
this moisture and warmth that facilitates the growth.
When they appear to be growing, the glasses must
be raised, and in a short time removed. To raise
pinks from seed, follow the directions given for car-
nations.

Potijanthus is propagated by parting the roots in
autumn, or (for new varieties) by seed sown and ma-
naged (nearly) as directed for auriculas : But as thi$
flower is not so delicate in the cultivation, it may be
sown in borders, where there is s only the morning

SECT. XIX. fjSTS OF TREES, &C. S89

sun, any time from August to April ; and as soon
as the plants are at all big enough to prick out, set
them four inches asunder ; and some time in August,
plant at six inches, where they are to remain for their
first blow ; which should be attended to, in order to
mark the best flowers, dividing these into two sorts,
prime and middling; and the rest may be either
planted into ordinary ground in plantations, £c. or
cast away : There will be but few real good ones in
a great many ; but the culture of this plant is so
easy, that it is worth while to try for them. Some
sow in pots, and boxes, in December, placing them
in the sun, and housing them in severe weather ;
and when the plants appear, set them in an east
aspect, let much sun destroy the young plants ; early
in autumn, or spring, is however better : The seed
may be covered a littie less than a quarter of an
inch. Both seeds and seedling plants should have
occasional watering, as moisture suits them.

A compost for the polyanthus is a light loam, (as
the first spit from the pasture rotted down with the
turf) and about one fourth part cow dung or wood
pile earth. If the loam is strong, a little drift sand
amongst it will be proper. The polyanthus grows
any where, but a cool soil and situation suits it best ;
and some compost, as the above, with an east border^
is necessary in order to a capital full trussed blow.

Tuberose is blown finest in a hot -house ; but if
planted in pots, and plunged at the back of a hot"
bed frame, it succeeds very well. This will be best
done about Mid- April, as sooner they are apt to get
too tall before they can safely be exposed abroad.
Provide a good fresh light earth, and use «o dung,
except a little rich and dungy, to lay an inch below
the bottom of the bulb ; fill the pots only three
parts, and place the root only half way, or a little
more, in it, Let the mould be somewhat moist, but

LISTS OF TIIEE, &C. SECT. XIX.

give no water till the shoot appears, and then mo-
derately ; at which time, fill up the pot, just to cover
the bulb, which should be but barely hid, when the
pot is full. The best shaped pots for bulbous roots
is, when they stand high, and the bottoms are as
wide as the top ; and the size for the tuberose
should be those of eight or nine inches diameter at
top, according as the bottom is for w idth ; for the
more space below, the less is required above.

As the shoots advance in growth, the more air
must be given ; and as freely as possible on mild
days, shutting close on cold nights, and almost so
on moderate ones. When they get too high for the
frames, and the season is forward, with kind wea-
ther, they may be plunged in the ground, close under
a warm wall ; and a covering of mat contrived to
protect them a while on nights, or may do if left to
take their chance. If the weather is foul, they may
be housed in a good window, for a week or a fort-
night, and then put in the ground as directed above,
Here let them remain, giving occasional watering,
(and freely in dry weather) till in flower ; when the
house (allowing them light and sun) will be their
proper residence, for their fine powerful scent, and
to protect the blow, that it may the longer continue.
Jn their flowering state, they will want much water.

The heat on which this flower is forwarded should
be moderate, otherwise it will run up too fast If
planted under a south wall in May^ covering the
root about an inch, and guarding against much wet
till it is growing, it will do for a late blow : A hand-
glass of course would be serviceable, both to assist
it in shooting, and shelter it from unkind weather ;
but close covering is as much as possible to be
avoided. Fresh roots are imported every year; —
the double never flowers twice with us, but the
gingle may, if kept in a dry warm room.

SKfiJ. XX. A CALENDAR. 391

SECTION xx/ 5 ' :.'••:

^A £ A LEND A IV «,

JLlIE general work of gardening has been pretty
fully spoken of, in the parts concerning the format ion,
cultivation, and management of a garden, propaga-
tion, £c. The particular culture of esculents, kerbs,
fruits, and flowers, has been treated in the sections,
appropriated to each It therefore remains to give
here little more than short hints, by way of assisting,
recollection, and to make proper references to the
pages, where farther instructions may be found.

What is said concerning seeds and sowing, page 62
to 69, must be attended to. It need only be farther
observed, that as to the season most proper to do the
several works of gardening, it is not the same (ex-
actly) every where, as soil and situation make a dif-
ference.— The time mentioned in this calendar is,
that which the author judges will be found most
generally right in the midland counties, as the ex-
tremes of England north and south make a great
difference in this business, which must be allowed
for.

The work of gardening being very multifarious, it
would be a practice not unworthy, even the skilful
gardener, to make it a rule, once a week, to consider
what is to be done the following week ; and to make
memorandums accordingly, numbering them in the
order he would have them performed. Thus he would
never be at a loss, what to set himself, or his labourers
about, and the mortification of omissions, or appear-
ance of neglect, would be avoided : This calendar,
it is presumed, will be found a ready and sufficient
assistant upon such an occasion, the author having

JANUARY SECT. XX;

studiously endeavoured to make it as plain, compre-
hensive, and concise as possible.

JANUARY.

Lfct fcvery thing be done now, that the weather
and circumstances will permit (though not abso-
lutely necessary) in order to lessen the work of next
ihenik, which when it happens to be an open season,
is a very important one in the way of gardening,
in which the loss of a single fine day is of conse-
quence.

MISCELLANEOUS WORK.

Frosty protect things from, as they may need it,
Earth -up any roots bared or disturbed by Irost, 50.
Dung tor hoi-beds should be duly attended to, j81.
Manure and compost heaps turn frequently over.
Espaliers, garden frames, and such things, rectify.
Took, make, repair, sharpen and brighten.
Fruit, onions, &c. the stores of, look over, 244, 280.
teriisli'wooa, prepare ready tor sticking peas, £c.

247.

P laming, trench and prepare ground for, 28, 100.
New planted trees, protect and tie to stakes, 93, 106.
Ofa trees dig about, and dress with some manure, 46.
Prune espalier trees, standards and shrubs, 169, 175.
Mots, clear trees and shrubs from, in moist weather,

171.
Vermin, set traps for, and oppose all annoyances,

JVFebs and nests of caterpillars, slugs, snails, destroy.
1 borders, weed, stir the ground, and rake, 50.

SECT. XX, JANUARY.

Cauliflowers and lettuces in frames, &c. attend, £28,

242.
Endive, tie up, when dry, to blanch ; and protect it,

255.

dons, procure for graffing, except apples, 86, 89.
Hot-beds, prepare lor, or make, cucumbers, &e. 179,

187.
Drain ground, scour ditches, plash hedges, &c.

sow

Cucumbers, 187. Melons, 203. Peas, 245. Eean*f
219. Spinach, 259. Radishes, 254. Lettuces,
240. Crew, 266. Mustard, 270. Carrots, 225.
The five last on #e#/; to which may be added,
rape and lap lettuce, 243, as sallading; towards
tiie end of the month, however, they may be sown
on warm borders, the sallading being under close
hand-glasses.

* 'w

PLANT

Mint on heat, 27$. Cabbages at distances as 225,
Trees and shrubs of the deciduous kinds, grape
vines, currants, gooseberries, and raspberries, if
mild weather, so that the ground will work loose.
Layers may be removed ; but rather prepare the
ground now for planting them next month, 100f
&c.

PROPAGATE

Trees and shrubs by suckers, layers, cuttings, 67, &c.

FLOWERS.

Pots of, (see December) tulips, anemonies, ranuncu-
luses, hyacinthSy'narcissuseSj&c. above ground.pro-
tect, 309.

394 FEBRUARY. SECT. Jilt.

Bulbous and tuberous roots now plant for a late blow,
or in the next month ; bat preserve them if choice
sorts from much wet, lest they rot, 306.

Auriculas, if disturbed by frost, dress and protect,
381.

Carnations, and all hardy plants, in pots, protect,
but give them as much air and sun as may be,
384."

Flowering shrubs may be planted, if open weather,
covering the roots well ; but it is better done next
month, getting the ground ready now, 1 12, &c.

NURSERY.

Vermin, guard against in time, on seed beds, &c. 75.
Dig beds for sowing, next month tree seeds, £c. 73.
Protect seedling trees (particular exotics) from frost.
Plant, or transplant, hardy things, cover the roots.
Prepare ground for next month's planting out seed-
lings, or stocks for grafting another year, 75.

******

FEBRUARY.

WHEN the ground can be conveniently worked,
this is a very busy month, and no time must be lost,
nor hands spared, that every thing may be done in its
proper, or earliest season.

The last week is the principal, in which many
things are to be done, and some full crops sown :
The skilful gardener is properly aware of this, but
ordinarily the month of February is too much neg-
lected.

SECT. XXc FEBRUARY. 31)5

A1ISCELLANEOUS WORKS.

Ground, prepare for planting and sowing, Sec. 46.
Borders should be stirred, dug, or dressed, 29, 145.
Gravel walks, weed, moss, put in order, and roil

firm, 56.

Turf, prepare the ground for laying, by levelling.
Grass plats and walks, clean up, cut the edges, 56.
Composts and manures, turn over, an-d break well.
Hot -beds, attend regularly, and no neglect, J90, &c.
Stable dung for hot-beds, now manage properly, 18 J.
Cauliflowers and lettuces, see to, as in the last month,
Earth up and protect plants from frost and wind, 5$.
Stick peas, neatly, when about five inches high, 246.
Weed and thin crops, as winter onions, radishes, £c.

51.
Endive, attend, to blanch and ridge when quite dry,

235.
Vermin and insects, see to, as mice, snails, slugs, £c.

248.

Birds, chiefly bull-finches, do much mischief now.
Prune wall and other trees, but first grape vines,

135.

Moss and canker, clean trees of, moist weather, 171.
Cions for grafting, provide. 86, and use them, 87, £c.
Efaings of thrift, a good time to make or repair, 57.

sow

Cucumbers, 188, 233. Melons, 203, 243. Peas,
small, 246, large, 247. Beans, the broad sorts,
or the mazagans, if wanted early, 220. Radishes
on -heat, or not, 255. Lettuces on heat, or not,
24 1. Small s a Hading on heat, or on a warm
border under glass, 266. Cabbages, the sugar
loaf sortSj 224 ; or if early ones are wanted, sow
the Yorkshire sort on heat, 225. Savoys, 257.

396 FEBRUARY. SECT. XX.

Onions, 243. Leeks, 240. Parsley, 245. Spi-
nach, $59. Carrots on heat, or not, 255. Pars-
neps, 245. Celery, 230. Kidney-beans on heat,
221. Turneps on heat, 261. Cauliflowers on
heat, 229.

/

PLANT

Cucumbers, 189, 195. Melons, 207. Cauliflowers,
229. Cabbages, 225. Horse-radish, 236,
&A?, 235. Rocombole, 273. Shalots, 259.
265. -M/tf on heat, 269. Potatoes, early sorts,
on heat, and warm borders, 254. ^Vz&s, ow//,
espalier, and standard fruit trees, forest, trees,
and deciduous shrubs, 30, 100, 112, 118.

PROPAGATE

TVee,? and shrubs by grafting, 87, by suckers, layers,
and cuttings, 67. *SW kernels, stones, and seeds
of fruit, &c. on fine well broke earth, providing
exotics a little heat, 74.

FIOWERS.

See last month, Biennials and perennials plant, 302.
Shrubs protect, &c. 115: prune and dig about, 1 1 7.
Carnations, Sec. housed, bring abroad on mild days.
Auriculas, pots dress and regularly water, 381. ;
Auricula and polyanthus seed should be sown now,

382.

Bulbs and tubers, plant soon and pot some, 306.
Water pots, particularly woody and hardy plants.
Annuals, sow about last week, 301 ; some in pots,

302.

SECT. XX, MARCH, 397

NURSERY.

See last month. Sow hardy trees and shrubs, 74u
Transplant hardy seedlings of last year, and stocks
for graffing next year, or the following, 75.

MARCH.

THE first week in this, like the last in February*
is very valuable to the good gardener, and must in-
dustriously be made the best use of by those who
would have things tolerably in season, and well fur-
nished for the summer. It is therefore proper to
have no regard to the charge of necessary assistance,
Nature now waits for us, let us not neglect to attend
upon her: This is the universal seed-time. Sqe ma~
nagement, page 59.

MISCELLANEOUS WORK.

Order and neatness begin now to be principal object^

56.
Vacant ground, dig and apply manure where wanted,

.49.

Borders dress, by weeding, digging, &c, see last

month.

Gravel walks, clean, roll, re-lay, or make new, 56*
Edgings of thrift and box, if mild, repair, or make,

57.
Grass plats and walks make, cleanse, mow, cut

hedges, 56.

Herb-beds weed and dress, see article balm, 263*
feeding in general should be begun in time, 50.
Asparagus beds, weed, carefully fork, and dress, 5218.
Ditto, in dry weather, water as recommended, 218*

S9& MAttCH. SECT. JCX.

Strawberry beds, weed, stir the mould, and dress,

175.
Artichokes, dress, £c, towards the end of the month,

S15.

Composts heaps, turn, screen, or sift, for pots, &c.
Vermin, insects, and destructive birds, see to, 249.
Earth-up peas, beans, and whatever else needs it.
Stick early peas in time, and stop them, or not, 247.
Slakes to trees, Sec. see that they are fast, 1 06.
Graff now, but apples towards end of tLc month,

8*5.

Prune wall trees without delay, but first vines, 156.
Blossoms of choice wall-tree fruit, defend, 1,52.
Prune, dig, dress, shrubberies and plantations, 113.
Hat-beds carefully attend, 19J, and make new ones,

194.
Dung for future hot-beds, manage in worked heaps,

180.

'Cauliflowers, Sec. under glass, give air freely to, 228.
Stir mould about ditto, and also lettuces, 229, &42.
Prick out cauliflowers, cabbages, lettuces, &c. 228.
Orchards, dung, dress, prune, or smoak them, 44.

sow.

See last month, cauliflowers, savoys, onions, &c. Ra-
dishes, the spindle rooted, 256. Lettuces of sorts,
241. Small sallads, 266. In the first week :
Alexanders, 214. Asparagus, 21(5. Beets, 221.
Hamburgh parsley, 245. Salsafy, 256. Scorzo-
nera, 257. Skirrets, 259- Fmochio, 267. Red
cabbage, 225. Turnep radishes, 255. Second
week: Turmps, on heat, and in open ground,
£61 ; and kidney -bean on heat, or a warm border,
237. Last week : Brocoli, of the early purple
autumn sort, 223. Nasturtiums, 270. Capsi-
cums, 264. Love apples, 276. //er&v of all

SECT. XX. MARCH. 399

sorts, 262, &c. Strawberries, particularly alpines,
80.

PLANT

Trees and shrubs, 30, 100, 103, 109. Herbs in
rooted slips or cuttings, 262, &c. Strawberries,
39. Asparagus, 217. Artichokes, 214. Pota-
toes and Jerusalem artichokes, 260, 237. Let-
tuces, 240. Cauliflowers, 228. Other things as
last month.

PROPAGATE

Zrees and shrubs, by grafting, 87 ; by suckers, offsets,
layers and cuttings, 69. Herbaceous plants, by
parting roots, £c. 305.

FLOWERS.

The hardy kinds of flowers in pots that have been

housed, should be inured by degrees to the weather,

and soon left out on nights : None should remain

under cover more than necessary.
Pot desirable hardy plants for moveable ornaments,

when in flower; but not too many, 297, 302.
Auriculas, if not before, dress, and regularly water,

381.

Carnations dress as directed for auriculas, 382.
Tulips, hyacinths, &c. of the best sorts, protect, 309.
Water potted plants duly as the weather is, 296.
Sow annuals, 292. Biennials, 302. Perennials^

303.
Take up, remove offsets, and divide fibrous rooted

perennial flowers about middle of the month, 305.
Layers of carnations, pinks, &c. take up carefully

soon, and pot or plant with earth to the roots,

383.
Seedlings of ditto, and other things, plant outv V

400 A*HTI. SECT. XX.

ieS) ranunculuses, and bulbs, may IDC put in
(east border) the first week, to blow late, 306,
307, &c.

, thrift, daisies, pinks, &c. plant soon for edgings,
57.

NURSERY.

Remove Utter, weed, stir the ground, and rake neatly,
Prune into form, shorten the leader, &c. to make a

head to young trees, £c. 76.
Graffs of last year cut to a few eyes ; behead as at

98.

Transplant and^ow as at last month, and do it .quickly.
Exotics, or tender plants, sow on a gentle hot-bed,

74.
If^ater giv&'m a dry time to seeds, seedlings, cuttings,

and newly planted things ; but not over much, 52.

APRIL.

IF by any means the proper early spring cropping
of the ground has been prevented, make no delay to
finish, and to got the garden into a complete state of
cultivation. This month may be mild enough to in-
vite us abroad, to traverse the walks, and view natufs
in her spring attire, " all blooming and benevolent?
Let nothing therefore be met with that appears slo-
venly, or disgusting. See page 56.

MISCELLANEOUS WORK.

Borders, &c. weed, stir, rake, and clean up neatly,

50.

Quarters also weed, particularly beds of onions, 61.
Gravel walks and grass plats, put in order, roll,

56.

SECT. XX, APRIL. 401

Turf, get, lay, but water frequently if dry weather. .
Edgings of box, Sec. make, repair, trim, or cut low,

57.

Watering omit not where necessary in a dry time, 52.
Pruning finish all soon ; head down young trees, 1 37*
Graffs, see to, that the claying remains safe on, 89.
Blossoms of wall fruits, protect in bad weather, 152;
Dung for hot- beds, collect and take care of, 180.
Hot-beds, make in due time for fruiting cucumbers,

194.
• for melons, tender annuals, £c. 200, 292,

298.

Asparagus, strawberries, artichokes, see last month.
Cauliflowers, stir mould about, and earth up, 228.'
Peas, earth up, and stick before they droop, 1M6.
Beans in blossom, crop the tops, and earth up firmly,

220.

Weed and thin all seedling crops, by hand or hoe, 50*
Prick out celery and plants of every kind when fit, 5 1 *
Potatoes, early sort, earth up, protect from frost, 25 1.
Lettuces, tie up close, and stir the ground about, 241.
Cabbages, earth up, and also tie up forward ones, 224.
Caterpillars, snails, and slugs, search often after, 58.

sow

As soon as possible, what was omitted last month,
or the preceding. Then, Salsafy, 256. Scorzo-
nera, 257. Pumpions and gourds, 253. Late
Savoys, 257 ; and Cauliflowers, 229- Boor cole,
222. Brocoli, 223. Brussels sprouts, 224.
Chou-Milan, 233. Chardons, 232. Kidney-
beans, 237. Cabbages, chiefly the large sugar-
loaf for coleworts, 224, 233. Herbs, culinary
and medicinal, 262, &c. Nasturt'mms cold
ground, 270. Basil on heat, 263.
Dd

402 APRIL. SECT. XX.

Succession crops, of cucumbers and melons, for hand-
glasses, £c. -199, 210, 1212. Peas, large and
small. Beans, the broad sorts. Savoys^ carrots,
turneps, celery, lettuces, jinochio, spinach, and
radishes cool ground, small sallading, weekly, on
a south border, onions to draw young, 63.

PLANT,

'Strawberries yet, but alpines succeed best so late,
40. Asparagus, 217. Artichokes, 214. Let-
tuces, 240. Chives, garlick, rocombole, and «$•/?#*
/0ta, first week, see February. Cabbages, early
and late, 225. Caulif lowers, %2&. Kidney beans
that have been raised on heat, 238. Potatoes for
a full crop, 250. Herbs in rooted slips, 262, £c.
Trees and Shrubs immediately, and do it in the
best manner, water, cover the roots, and stake the
sterns, 105, 116.

PROPAGATE

Trees and shrubs, by grafting, layers, cuttings, and
sowing, which may yet be performed,. 69, 80, 87.

Herbs, by slips, or cuttings, in a good soil, and a shady
situation, but not under trees, 263, £c.

FLOWERS.

Sow, in the first week, (if not done before) Annuals,
292, 298, SOO. Biennials, 302. Per&mials, 303.

Plant, or prick out, annuals as the sorts require, 293.
Biennials and perennials of late blowers, may yet
be transplanted into "borders or pots, giving an
immediate watering, and shading a few days frora
sun, 294. Carnation layers, taking them up care-
fully with a scoop trowel, 383. Pinks, the satne,
Tuber oset 379.

SECT. XX. MAY. 403

Tulips, Ranunculuses, ancmonies, &c. of choice sorts,

protect in severe cutting winds, 378.
Auriculas in bloom, shelter from rain, wind, sun, and

support the stems by neat forked sticks, 38 1.
Pots of jlowers, shift, and dress, j;ie up, water, &c.

,
Crocus leaves tie up, not cut them off as some do.

4$

NURSERY.

Weed, water, stir the soil, rake neatly, and clean up,
72.

Transplant (yet) seedlings of trees and shrubs ; the
evergreen sorts it is now a good time for, 75.

Sow (if not done before) the seeds of forest trees,
flowering shrubs, and evergreens; but keep them
cool, by watering, as every thing should be, that is
sown or transplanted late in the spring : Yet they
must not be kept soaked with wet, 74.

MAY.

LET this charming month be ushered in with due
respect, by the garden being in excellent order, to
which end let no help be spared, when the gardener
is not competent to perform the work himself: It
is sometimes too much for the most industrious
man.

We now gather vegetables that have stood the win-
ter, and been the care of many months, with some of
the products of spring also ; and it is the hope and
fruition of reward that sweetens labour: All the
senses are gratified at this season.

The softening air is balm ;

And every sense and every heart is joy !

THOMSON*

404 MAY* SECT,

MISCELLANEOUS WORK,

Neatness must be pursued, stir the ground, rake, &c.

50.
Gravd walks and grass plats, keep in good order,

56.
/Feeds, destroy every where, by the hand or hoe7

50, 56.
Water, if dry weather, new planted trees, shrubs, and

flowers, strawberries, cauliflowers, &c. 41, 53.
Thin all sorts of seedling crops freely, and in time,

47.

Prick out lettuces, celery, brocoli, boorcole, cauli-
flowers, savoys, cabbages, leeks, &c. 51.
Earth up potatoes, peas, beans, cabbages, celery,

£c. 50.
Tie np forward lettuces, and early cabbages, 224,

242.
Cucumber plants, give air, water, shade, train, 196",

&c.
Hot-beds, make for cucumbers and melons, 183,

200, 210.
Regulate wall-trees, vines, and prune figs, 138, 157,

159.

Graffs attend to, and repair the claying, £c. 89-
Thin fruit that is superabundant on wall-trees, 154.
Beans, top, when in blossom, and earth them up,

220.

sow

Nasturtiums, herbs, and tall kidney-beans, first Week,
270. Endive, 234, and purslane, 272, second
week. Cauliflowers about the middle, 228. Ce-
lery, 230. Pumpions and gourds, 253.

Stic cession- crops 0f eucurnlers for picklers, 201;

./: Melons for mart^oes, 212, Dwarf kidney -beans,

SECT. XX. MAY. 405

celery, radishes, turneps, cabbages y sawj?, bro-
colt, peas, beans, jinochio, scdsafy, scoraowra,
chardons, spinach, lettuces, radishes, ani small
1 sallading, chiefly first week.

.. ,

PLANT

Kidney -beans that have been forwarded on heat, 238.
Cucumbers and melons, second crop," £00, 211.
Forward gourds, 253. Lettuces, 241. CW*-
flowers, savoys, cabbages, coleworts, 229, 233.
Celery, if forward, in trenches, 231. Artichokes,
214, Potatoes, 250. Nasturtiums, 270. C#/N
sicums, 2(>4. Love-apples, 27 6 } and £#&7, 26*3,
towards the end of the month. Herbs^ by parted
roots, 263, £c. Trees and shrubs may yet suc-
ceed under good management, 106.

, .^^u'ur;;:^: <;iav -.- - -^

PROPAGATE

Herbs, culinary and medicinal, by slips and cuttings,
but rather the latter. For sage it is now the best
time, 263, &c. See Flowers, article slips, &c.

F LOUVERS.

Sow annuals of all sorts for a late blow. Scarlet

bean, sow as a flower to run up pales, &c.
Thin seedlings soon, that they may not be weak, 292.
Prick out, or plant, the tender annuals, in new hot-

beds, pots, &c. as directed, 293, 294, 297.
Hot-beds of flowers, manage, as to age, water, &c.

300.
Biennials and perennials, thin in time, and water

them; also prick out any are forward enough;

they may yet be sown, 302, 303.
Auriculas out of flower, remove out of the sun, 581.
Tuberoses, pot on heat, or under a south wall, 57.9.

406 jtitf £. SECT,

Tulips, anemonies, &c. in beds and in flower, protect,

309.
ftulhs and tubers of dying spring flowers, take up,

305.
Slips and cut t bigs of pinks, double watt-flowers, dou-

ble sweet mltiams, double scarlet lychnis -, double

rockets., and lychnidea, plant as soon, as the young

shoots are forward enough, 368, 355, 366, 369,

366.

Geraniums, plant cuttings of last year's shoots,. 384.
Water seed-beds lightly and moderately in a dry

time, 300 ; and pots of flowers regularly, 296.
Air, give to housed plants freely, as the season is,

385.
Dress, shift, a*nd tie up, flowers and shrubs in pots,

386.

Pot some ten week stocks, mignonette, &c. 296, 297".
Support spindling carnations, &c. and weak shrubs,

57.
Stir the surface mould in tubs and pots of flowers,

385.

NURSERY;

Weed, water, occasionally shade tender seedlings, 7£.
Seed-beds, keep cool, for without moisture, germina-

tion cannot be expected ; but give water lightly,

so as not to cake the ground, 53.

JUNE.

IN this month the gardener begins to find some
pause to his labour. The ground is now fully crop-
ped, as to principals, and the chief 'business is to see
that the various plants, according to their different
ages of growth, do not stand in need of the necessary

SECT. XX« JUNE. 4157

assistance of cut fare,. <<>v -good t management. Par-
ticularly attend, to trained trees, /l&c., to regulate
them betore. tL^r get intot disorder ;-WThis do -ance
a week. \mvi #.\K\\ *'& t\mVM> \o v,^ov> Jv&jw2ftow!&

*

eed diligently, particularly close crops, 50pS*^
Stir the ground between ^open crops, and rake, 50.
Gravel walks, grass pltfts, siiici edgings, see to, 56".
Water, lot it be duly jap plied where necessary,;. £& Vi
T/iiuby Jioe, or ^i4stAftihS9^;^croP8rfS"^44o'k
Prick out things, celery, endive i,&avoy$, brocolt^ ^c.

r

Cauliflowers shewing head, break

Earth up high peas,-bgaii5, &c. see the last1 month.
7/6^ &/; the leaves of-garliqk and rocqmbole, 236.
Blanch .lettuce, white beef, and finochio,

Stick* peas, and top beans when in full flower, £|6,

Cucumbers, attend duly, to air, water, train, &c.;
Melons, ditto, prune^ lay tile under the iruit, 207,

&c,

Prune wall-trees, vines and espaliers, I38,.157v15g.
Blighted trees, pull off curled leaves, atid water them

forcibly and frequently with an engine, 53.
Graffs that have clearly taken, unclay and unbind, 89.
Bud, or inoculate, at Midsummer, or soon after, §4.
Asparagus, finish cutting before Midsummer, 219.
Herbs for drying, gather as directed, page 263.
Seeds also attend to, and gather if any ripe, 61.

sow

Cucumbers, last crop, for picklers may do in open
ground, if a good, soil and sunny situation, 201.
Pumpions and gourds may succeed as ditto, 253.

40S JUNE. *ECT>XX.

Turnep radishes of all sorts, but chiefly the large
white and black Spanish for autumn use, in cool
9 ground, 255. Endive for a prin&jwl crop, 234.
Succession crops of celery, brocoli, peas, broad beans,
kidney beam, radishes, lettuces, small sallading,
purslane, turneps, cabbages, carrots, finochio, and
spinach.

PLANT

Cucumbers, 200. Melons, 211. Pwnpions and
gourds, 253, Nasturtiums, 270. Capsicums,
264. Love-apples, Q76. Leeks, 240, Celery,
230. Cauliflowers, brocoli, boorcole, savoys, cab-
bages, and such like greens, at two and a half feet,
&r rather more for cauliflowers ; less for brocoli,
and cabbages, if a small sort. Seedling herbs,
Q63j &c. Moist weather at this season is very
advantageous for pricking out, or planting, and it
must not be neglected when it occurs : Water at
the time of planting, and afterwards as the weather
may require,

"/;-• .!*•'• ;l ^-: v>ln" i

PROPAGATE

Jierbs by slips, or cuttings, in a good soil, and as

* cool a situation as may be, not under trees, 262,
&c.

Layer the young shoots of roses, evergreens, or any
shrub, or tree, that does not readily strike root
from older wood, or send forth suckers ; but make
the soil riqh first with compost, or short dung,
and water the layers frequently, 69.

Cuttings, or the young shoots of some woody plants,
may be made to strike root, see page 333.

About the second week is the best time to plant
cuttings of myrtles, which should be young wood,
and short, about two inches. Keep them cool.

SECT. XX. JUNE. 409

FLOWERS.

Annuals, tender sorts, pot and plant out into the
borders ; they will require a good soil, water, and
a little shade at first, and chuse rainy or cloudy
weather for the work, 295 .

Pots of flowers set where they have only the morn-
ing sun, but not under trees, or any roof, except for
ornament a while, when in blow, 2<)7.

Trim, from dead parts, &c. perennials and biennials,
58.

Carnations, and other spindling flowers, support, 57.

Geraniums, plant cuttings of last year's shoots, 384.

JVater pots of flowers duly, borders occasionally, 296".

Prick out seedlings of biennial and perennial flowers,
particularly carnations, 383. Pinks, 387. Auri-
culas, 382, and polyanthuses, 388, into shady
places.

Plant slips, £c. of wall-flowers, &c. see last month,

Layer carnations, pinks, and sweet williams, 382.

Auriculas should be set in shade, except for seed, 381.

Spring bulbs, the leaves being decayed, take up, 305.

Autumnal bulbs, plant at the end of the month, 306.

NURSERY.

Weed, water, stir the soil, rake it, and clean up, 72.

Shade the tender seedlings, and late planted things,
75.

Seed beds, spring sown, keep moist, and earthed up ;
in very hot weather, an awning of mats is advan-
tageous on days. Seedlings in pots or boxes move
into shade, but not under trees.

Thin young plants from growing thick and weak, 72,

JULY. SECT. XX.

JULY.

Off} rij^f ; jfl-.t ri.-'-jS &»•= .. ••! ;-' >?'• .vvv.uO"'

THOUGH in this month there is a cessation from
the great bustle, and more laborious works of garden-
ing, yet "'its many cares" still find employment for
the willing hand ; and most assuredly a good success
in the end will not be attained without perseverance
in the means. Let nothing therefore be omitted,
that may tend to crown the gardener with credit, by
a continued production of fine vegetables, fruits, and
jlowers. The garden now abundantly gratifies the
tight y the taste* the smell ; and those who have the
opportunity to enjoy a good one, should be grateful
to GOD — and the gardener.

1 u; MISCELLANEOUS WORK.

Prepare vacant ground for cropping, and let as little

of it as possible lay rude and unproductive, 49.
Weed, stir the borders, hoe between crops, &c. 56.
Water cauliflowers, and whatever else may need it, 53.
Gravel walks , grass plats, ®q&$dgwg$., keep in order,

56.
Box, yew, &c. should be clipped soon after, or in

rain.
Earth peas, broad and kidney beans, celery, cabbages,,

&c.
Blanch white4)eet, lettuce, and finochio, -242, 251,

267-
•Stick peas, and rumdng kidney beans in time, £46\

239-

Thin all small crops to their due distances, 51.
Prick out young culinary plants of all sorts, 51.
Seeds, gather as they ripen, lest the best be lost, 6l*

SECT. XX. JULY, 411

Herbs for drying, gather as soon as in flower, 263.
Take up gariick, rocombole, shalots, 235, 273, 259.
Cucumbers and melons^ attend, water, train, &c. 196,

207.
'Plimptons and gourds, train, and water 'plentifully,

253. "***;

Artichokes, take off srnall side heads in time, 214.
Wall-trees; &c. regulate/ and occasionally prune, 138.
Vines sto|V,t and take off the little side shoots, 158.
Thin wall-trees/ &c.'; of superabundant fruit, 154,

Iff5.

B id grajf, or inoculate, fruit trees, roses, &c. 94.
Utigtued wall-trees, attend to, seethe last month.
Strawberry Runners, take off; except the first, 81.
Kidney Beaxys, runners, train, and water if dry, 239.
Antsrjlies> and wasps ,•. take by vials of sugar water.

sow

Brocotiy first week cool ground a little, for late use,

223.

Endive, principal winter crop, in open ground, 235.
Peas and beam, early sorts, may yet sow, 246, 221.
Kidney beans, dwarfs first week, south border, 239-
Carrots, a few, cool ground, first week, and water

both seeds and roots if dry weather, 227.
Radishes of any kind, but chiefly the large black and

white Spanish turnep sorts, water, 256.
Lettuces, the hardier or winter sorts, open ground,

241.
Spinach, first week, the round in cool ground, and in

the last week the prickly seeded, 260.
Onions, a few Welsh, and Stras burgh, second week,

244.
Coleworts, first week for winter, last week spring,

£33.

JULY. SECT. XX.

Turneps, any sort, both early and late in the month,
261.

PLANT

Celery at six inches ; Leeks the same or more. En-
dive, lettuces, coleworts, at a foot. Cabbages^ sa-
voys, brocoli, boorcole and cauliflowers, at two feet,
or a little more in a rich soil, particularly the lat-
ter : Give water at planting, and two or three
times after, if not much rain should fall.

PROPAGATE

Herbs, lavender, rosemary, sage, propagate yet, by
cuttings, or slips, occasionally watering, 263, &c.

Trees and shrubs, by laying shoots of the present
year; i. e. of those that are not apt to strike from
older wood. Slips and cuttings of some sorts,
may strike by the help of a hand-glass, 69, 333.

FLOWERS.

Stir the flower borders, and rake them neatly, 56.
Pots of flowers, set in shade, and regularly water,

296.
Carnations and double sweet williams^ layer, 382,

355.

Pinks, plant slips, cuttings, pipings, or layer, 368.
Geraniums, double lychnis, lychnideas, double wall-
flowers, rockets, plant cuttings, or slips, 356,

355, 368, 369.

Succulent plants (as aloes) may now be set abroad.
Annuals, plant out tender sorts into borders, 295.
Ditto, quick blowers may still be sown, 301.
Biennials, thin seed beds of, prick out, water, £c. 302.
Perennials, 303. Auriculas, 382. Carnations, 383.

Pinks, 387, and Polyanthus, 388.

SECT. XX. AUGUST. 413

Larkspurs thin, and pull up all the single ones, 350.
Stocks, pull up most of the single ones, 346.
Seeds, gather very regularly as they ripen, 61.
Bulbous and tuberous roots take up in due time, 305.
Bulbs of autumn, as saffron crocus, plant now, 306.
Trim plants and shrubs, straggling branches, &c. 57.
Support weak flowers and shrubs by proper ties, 57.
Minionette, sow in pots, cool place, to flower in
winter.

NURSERY.

JFeed, water, shade, young tender seedlings, £c. 75.

Prune away suckers, or shoots from stems, &c. parti-
cularly those that have been grafted, 76, 99-

Thin seedlings, shade by a mat, £c. new planted ones,
but open them to night dews, water, &c. 76, 52.

AUGUST.

IN this month (as in some measure before) the
gardener anticipates products of the future year, and
sows various vegetables in autumn to stand the 'winter
for spring and summer use ; so that, in this, and other
respects, August is in truth an important season, as
will be seen by the work directed to be done. The
times for the several sowings should be pretty exactly
observed in order to success.

MISCELLANEOUS WORK.

Weed, water, stir borders, rake and clean up, 5%, 56.
Walks and grass plats, attend, roll, mow, sweep, 56.
Thin by hoe, or hand, young crops, in dry weather,
51.

AUGUST. §ECT. xx*

Water ditto, as also new sown beds, regularly, 52.
Prick out celery, and other things, as winter greens,

51.

Earth up peas, beans, kidney beans, celery, £c. 50.
Blanch endive, beet, chardon, fmochio, £35, 221,

Dig, or use a strong hoe, between rows of plants, 51.
Vacant ground, clean, and prepare for use, 47, 48.
Stick peas, and take up the haulm of old crops, 247.
Seed plants support, and gather seed as it ripens, 61.
Herbs, gather for drying just when in flower, 263.
Onions, press down the leaves to the ground, 244.
Shalots, garlic!^ rocambole, take up, 259, 236, 273.
Grape vines, prune, nail, id keep in due order, 158.
Wall-trees, espaliers, climbing shrubs, &c. regulate,

139.

Insects about wall-trees, attend to. See blight, June.
Wasps, &c. take in trees, by vials of sugar water.
Budding may yet be performed, first week, y4.
Buds that have taken of former work, unbind, 98.
Net fruit trees up, to keep off birds, and also fingers.
Gather fruit before the sun has shone long upon it.
Mat up currants and gooseberries for late fruit, 173.
Strawberries, clear from runners, weeds, leaves, 175.
Cucumbers, pumpions, and gourds, train, water, &c.
Pickling cucumbers should be gathered twice a week.
Melons, prune, train, water sparingly, 207.

sow

Cokworts in the first week, 233; cabbages in the
second, 224; cauliflowers in the third, 228. Oni-
ons, Welsh, a full crop, and a few Strasburgh a
warm border, first week, 243. Lettuces, at the
beginning, -middle and end of the month, 241.
Small saliading, in as hady place, and water it, 270.
Chervil and American cress, second week,

S£CT. XX. AUGUST, 415

267- Radish ) both spindle and round rooted, 2
Kidney beans, dwarf, on a warm border, first week,
£3$. Spinach, round first week, prickly third
\veek ; the former at broad cast, and the latter
rather in drills, 260. Titrneps, first or second
week, 261. Carrots, ditto, £27. Herbs first week,
262. &c.

PLANT

"Without delay, leeks, celery, lettuces, endive, cab-
bage?, colewcrts, late brocoli, and boorcole, dis-
tance as last month, though every thing planted
late, may be so much the nigher, generally speaking
one third. Strawberries and herbs* culinary and
medicinal, towards the end of the month, that they
may be well rooted before winter, 40, 262, &c.

PROPAGATE

Trees and shrubs, by laying young shoots in fine rich
earth, keeping the ground cool about them, 71.

PLOVERS.

Decayed parts, take off, trim, and tie to sticks, 57,

58.
Shrubs, ditto, thin a little, and prune off suckers,

117.
Edgings, or edges of box., yew, &c. may be cut,

57.

Water potted flowers regularly, also others, 296.
Ditto all new planted things, and shade them, 25)4.
Annuals, hardy, sow towards the end of the month,

300.

Minionette, plant in pots, to flower in winter.
Biennials and perennials, plant, last week, 302, 303*
Saxifrage pyramidal, arid double plant in pots.

o

416 SEPTEMBER. SECT. XX.

Geraniums* raised from cuttings, (or seed) pot soon-
Ditto, pots of, £c. stir, or fresh earth, 387.
Auriculas and poly ant kits, transplant, part, &c. 381,

388.

Carnations yet layer ; transplant early layers, 381.
Pinks from early cuttings may be fit to move, 368.
Szveet williams layer, or transplant if rooted, 355.
Bulbous roots, as lilies,. £c. take up for planting,

305.

Bulbous offsets, replant them without delay, 306.
Bulbs of autumn flowers, plant in first week ; see

lilies, atamasco, Guernsey, £c. 385.
Succulent plants, shift (best season) first week, 387.

< * *

NURSERY.

Prune suckers, side stem shoots, straggling and luxu~
riant ones from the head ; stir the ground, weed,
water ', thin seedlings, plant, shade, £c. 72, 52*

SEPTEMBER,

GARDENS begin now to fail of their wonted
beauty, and therefore dying flowers, all litter, and
every thing unsightly, admonish the gardener to trim
his plants, and clean the ground frequently, that all
may be pretty, if not gay. An attention of this sort,
stirring the ground, and raking it, will give an air of
freshness and culture highly pleasing and creditable.

MISCELLANEOUS WORK.

See beginning of last month, twelve first articles.
Shrubs free from suckers, dig about, £c. 117.
Prepare ground for planting trees and shrubs, 10S*

&. SEPTEMBER* 417

Turf, lay at a good time, beat, roll, and water.
Gather fruits at they ripen, and store them well, 280*
Grapes, tie fine ripe bunches up in gauze or crape.
Figs, keep in close training to ripen the fruit, 160.
Cucumbers, cover on nights to prevent the spot, 202.
Pickling cucumbers, gather before they get spotted.
Melons carefully protect from cold and wet, 212.
Cauliflowers, prick out, put some on slight heat, 228.
Ditto, Michaelmas crop, if dry weather, water often.
Lettuces, prick out, at 4 or 5 inches, south border.
Herb'beds should be cleared and dressed this month,

263.

Nasturtiums gather before ripe for pickling, 270.
Onions., being dry and hard, take in, sort, &c. 255.
Garlick, shalots, and rocambole, tie up, and store, 235.
Seeds, sucli as are well dried, dress and put up, 58j

59>
Beans, late, top them as soon as in flower, 220.

sow

Spinach, turneps, Welch onions (thick) and endive,
first week, for late spring use. Radishes of all
sorts, but chiefly the large black turnep, 254*
Small sallading, every ten days, warm borders, or
under glass, 266. Corn sallad, 266. Chervil,
265, and sorrel, 275.

PLANT

At distances as before, coleworts, endive, cabbdge^
savoys, brocoli, boor cole, Brussels, sprouts, chou-
milan, and celery ; also lettuces on dry warm
ground, 242. Herbs, pot and medicinal, from
parted roots, or offsets, 262, Sec. Shalots, gar-
lick, rocambole, 259, 235, 273. Strawberries,
any time this month, (the sooner the better) dress
old beds and plants, 39, £0, 178. Shrubs, begin
E e

418 SEPTEMBER. SECT. XX.

to plant towards the end, but let not the roots be
long out of ground, 111, 114. Currants, goose-
berries, and raspberries, may be planted last week,
31, 38.

PROPAGATE

Trees and shrubs, by laying young shoots, and at the
end of the month, cuttings may be planted, as of
gooseberries, currants, laurels, honeysuckles, £c.
69.

FLOWERS.

Remove dead ones, trim the decaying, tie up, &c*_
57, 58.

Annuals, so~w some of the hardy sorts, first week,
300.

Biennials, plant out, reserving a few for spring, 302.

Perennials, ditto, also take up, and part old roots,
303.

Pinks, from cuttings, &c. (if well rooted) plant out;
also carnations, sweet-williams, &c. from layers,
383.

Geraniums, from cuttings, or seed, plant without de-
lay, in small pots, shortening the roots, &c. 384;

Auriculas, dress, shift, slip, place in shade, 381.

Polyanthus, plant, part roots, or sow the seed, 388.

Bulbs of autumn flowers, plant yet in first week, see
last month ; and those of spring in last week, as
crocuses, early tulips, common anemonies, 306.

Lilies and other scaly bulbous roots, plant soon, 306.

Offsets from bulbs must be planted immediately, 307.

Beds for bulbous and tuberous roots, prepare, 307.

Edgings of box, thrift, or pinks, plant, cut, or repair,

Pots of flowers bring from shady situations to more
sunny ones ; exotics, put in time under some degree
of shelter, according to their nature ; the succulent
plants are impatient of wet, and cold, as also 'varis-

SECT. XX. OCTOBER. 419

gated geraniums; take these in soon ; but give
plenty of mild air.

Minionette in pots for winter, place under a south
wall,

NURSERY.

Weed, stir tint soil, dean up} and water, if dry wea-
ther.

Dig about young trees, at the end of this, or the be-
ginning of next month, as directed, 83.

Prepare ground for planting, next month. Stocks
and seedlings, and sowing seeds of trees and shrubs,
73, &c. Cherry stones may now be sown. Ever-
green seedlings should be planted out, last week;
and watered, if a dry time, 75.

OCTOBER,

THIS is the chief month of the year for planting
trees, shrubs, &c. No part of it should be lost, in
either working the ground well for the purpose, or
putting in the plants without delay : Early planting,
if the ground is fit,- is of much consequence. Escu-
lents are to have their winter quarters provided them
as soon as possible in the month, as at the end of it
the weather is often bad.

Now the virtues of industry and perseverance will
be tried to keep the grounds clean from falling leaves,
&c. The garden, however, ought yet to be a source
of pleasure, and the weather is often still inviting
abroad : Surmount impediments.

420 OCTOBER. «ECT.

MISCELLANEOUS WORK.

Dig) dung, trench, and drain, ground thoroughly, 47.

Prepare for planting, lay open the holes for trees,
103.

Rake leaves off borders and quarters, sweep, Sec, 56.

Gravel walks, and grass plats, cleanse, roll, mow,
56.

Turfwi\\ be well laid now, but do the work soon.

Caterpillars, destroy, for they do mischief rapidly.

Thin, by hoe, spinach, &c. small crops, by hand, 5 1 .

Prick out cabbages for winter or spring planting,
224.

Hoe between rows of cabbages, &c. and earth up, 51.

Blanch celery and finochio by earthing; endive, beet,
and chardons, by tying* 231, 267, 235, 221, 232.

Cauliflowers that are heading, break leaves over, 230.

Asparagus beds and seedlings, dress, second week,
218. -

Strawberries, if not before, dress out of hand, 175.

Raspberries, dress, and plant coleworts between, 174.

Seeds gather regularly, and lay up thoroughly dry,
61.

Fruits, gather carefully, and house well, 280.

Dig up, and store clean and dry, carrots, Q&7 ; pota-
toes, 252; parsnepS) 245; Jerusalem artichokes,
237.

Dress about currant and gooseberry bushes, by dig-
ging in a little manure, cutting the ends of the
roots.

Herb-beds should always be dressed at this time, 263.

Vines, wall-trees, &c, regulate, if not fully prune.

Grapes bagged in gauze, see to, lest they get mouldy.

Shrub) &c. dig about, and put in good order, 1 17-

6BCT. XX. OCTOBER

SOW

Beans, mazagan, third and fourth week, £19. Peas,
ditto, early sorts, 246. Lettuces, first week, warm
border, £41. Small sallading, warm border, under
glass, 266. Radishes, early purple short top, or
early Sandwich, may succeed, south aspect, 256.
Carrots, a few early horn, warm border, may be
tried, 227.

PLANT

Anjou cabbage and boorcole yet plant. Brocoli, a
few plants, first week, for latest spring use. Cole-
worts, first week, 225. Cabbages, any time, chusing
strong plants, 224. Endive, first week, warm
border, 235. Celery and celeriac, first week, open
ground, for late spring use, 231. Cauliflowers,
settle soon, 229. Lettuces, 241. Shalots, gar*
lick, rocambole, (dry ground) 259, 2,:;5, 273.
Strawberries, first week, 81. Wall-trees, and
other shrubs, any time, but evergreens, first week,
Ilg. Herbs, rooted sorts, 263, &c. Mint on a
little heat, protecting it, 270. Layers of trees and
shrubs made last year ; being rooted, take up well,
and plant immediately, 101, &c.

PROPAGATE

Trees and shrubs, by suckers. 67, 68. By layers of
the young wood, roses, jasmines, bay, laurel, lau-
rustinus, vines, figs, filberts, codlins, mulberries,
&c. 69, 78. See lists of trees and shrubs. By
cuttings or slips, gooseberries, currants, berberry,
jasmines, honey suckles, laurels, box, £c, 6'8,
See lists,, sect. 1Q.

OCTOBER, SECT. XX.

FLOWERS.

over, trim, tie up, gather ripe seeds, &c. 57,

&c.
Geraniums, and other tender plants, dress, house,

385.
Auriculas and carnations in pots, preserve from mucfy

wet, and set in sunny situations, 381, 382.
Seeds, or seedlings, in pots, or boxes, ditto, and shelter

from the cutting N. E. winds, 381.
Annuals, self-sown, &c. may be taken up with a little

earth, and planted where wanted, 300.
Biennials, plant out, but leave a few for spring, 302.-
Perennials, ditto, also slip or divide old roots, 305.
Bulbous or tuberous, and fleshy roots of spring and

summer" flowers, plant, but the earliest first, 306.
Minionette, pots of, house, or put under hand-glass.
Saxifrage, pyramidal and double, plant in pots, 379.
Edging of dwarf flowers, box, &c. plant, or repair.

NURSERY.

Stir, and fork in a little short well rotted manure, 73.
Dig ground to be planted, a week before it is wanted.
Sow seeds of trees, £c. and guard against mice, &c.
' 74, 82.

Transplant seedlings designed for stocks, &c. 75.
Suckers of plums, cuttings. of quinces, codlin, &c.

77.
Prune, or dress up, young trees and shrubs from

suckers, straggling shoots, and form the heads, 76.
D/> about ditto for purposes as directed, 83?

SECT. XX. NOVEMBER 423

NOVEMBER.

THOUGH the last be the better month for planting,
yet this is more commonly the time adopted : It can-
not be now proper to delay it. The leaves not being
all off should be no obstacle to the work.

The object of pleasure should not yet be given up;
and let the gardener do all in his power to be cleanly
and neat, giving his grounds that proof of good cul-
ture, which is so essential to his credit.

Anticipate winter, so as to put all in order, and fur-
nish the ground early ; provide against frost ^ lest it
come unawares.

MISCELLANEOUS WORK.

Wet, if it stands any where, let it be drained off, 1 20.
Vacant ground, dig, manure, trench, or at least hoe,

47.
Clear away dead plants, leaves, weeds, and all litto

56.

Weed borders and crops, as spinach, winter onions,
^&c.
Grass plats, cleanse, roll, mow, and lay turf, but

soon.
Gravel walks, weed, clean, and roll hard after rain,

56.

Composts, collect materials for. See Index.
Cucumber and melon earth, store in dry time, 188,

206.

Earth up peas, beans, celery, cauliflowers, &c. 50.
Ulanch endive, 235, chardons, 232, and finotchio,

267.
Dig up carrots, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, and

parsneps, but not all the latter, 237, 245, 252.

424 NOVEMBER. SECT, XX,

Also when in prospect si frost, store some red
beet, scornozera, salsify, skirrets, Hamburgh par-
sley, leeks, turnep radishes, and horse-radish, all
of them to be preserved a while in a cellar, or
longer in dry sand, also cauliflowers and brocoli;
— See below.

Lettuces in frames, under hand-glasses, &c. attend,
242.

Artichokes, cut, see to, when in prospect of frost, 215,

Asparagus, dress beds of, and also seedlings soon,
218.

Raspberries, dress in the first week ; see last month.

Hot-beds may be used for small sallading, 266, mint,
270, lettuces, 242, or for radishes, 255.

Frost, consider what should be protected from it.

Fruit, latest sorts, gather in the first week ; and ma?
nage that already housed, 280.

Onions, store of, look over to remove decayed ones,
244.

Seeds, dress, put up clean and dry, and keep them so,

Caterpillars on winter greens, search for in time.

Grubs about the roots of lettuces, search for, £42.

Shrubs, prune and dig about; fasten trained ones,,
117.

Prune all trees, except figs, but cherries the first, 150.

Figs, pull off green fruit, fasten shoots, 159.

Cover the roots, and stake new planted trees, £c. 1081,

Cauliflozvers under glasses attend to, and those in
head, break leaves over. This vegetable, and bro-
coli, may be taken up when in prospect of frost,
and planted with balls of earth, or only laid in a
cellar, where they will keep (perhaps) a month ;
tut tie the leaves together at the tops with strong
)>ass or a hay-band before they are tajcen up, 230.

SECT. XX. NOVEMBER. 425

SOW

Small sallading and lap lettuce, under glass, warm
border, or rather on a little heat, 243, 266. Ra-
dishes, purple short top, second week, warm bor-
der, 256. Carrots, early horn, 227. Beans and
peas first week, for a principal early crop, £19,

PLANT

Celery yet, 231. Lettuces, 241: and cauliflowers
yet, in frames, under hand-glasses, or close under
a south wall, 229* Endive ridged, 235. Cole-
worts, 211, 233. Cabbages, 224; and all in the
first week, though the latter may be later. Mint
on heat, 270. Wall-trees, and others soon, 30,
fyc. 100, £c. Shrubs, deciduous, but not ever-
greens, 1 1 3, &c. Strawberries^ upon necessity,
but do it first week, 39.

PROPAGATE

See last month, by suckers, slips, divisions, cuttings,
and layers, as roses, &c. 68, &c.

FLOWERS.

Take up dead flowers, and tie up those in blow, 55,

&c.
Frost, beware of, as to the care of tender flowers,

362.

Auriculas and carnations in pots, protect, 381.
Seedlings in boxes, &c. place in the sun, and protect.
Pots of hardy flowers are themselves preserved, as

well as the plants, by plunging in the ground

above their rims, 381.

Bulbous and tuberous roots, plant and protect, 306,
i

DECEMBER; SECT, xx,

Biennials and perennials hardy, plant early, 302, 303.
Thrift^ plant or repair, as soon as may be, also box.

NURSERY.

See last month ; and do soon what was then omitted.

Cover the roots of newly planted things, and lightly

'all seed beds and seedlings of tender sorts, 104, 72,

DECEMBER.

THE garden is no longer a decorated scene ; but it
contains many things of promise, which demand atten-
tion, and which the industrious gardener will afford,
agreeable to the culture that each requires.

There are still some works of labour ; and where
there is plenty of dung and frames, hot-beds may be
made use of, and spring anticipated.

If this month be called dreary, yet still the face of
nature has charms, and invites us sometimes abroad,
even when covered with snow. Frost is clearly bene-
ficial, it dries the path, it strings our nerves, exhila-
rates our spirits, purifies the air, and prepares the
ground for future produce.

All nature feels the renovating force
Of winter ; only to the thoughtless eye
In ruin seen. The frost-concocted glebe
Draws in abundant vegetable soul,,
And gathers vigour for the coming year.

THOMSON,

MISCELLANEOUS WORK,

fTced crops, &c. clean up litter, and still be neat, 55.
Gravel walks, roll hard, if dry, against wet and frost,
Grass plats, cleanse from worm casts, sweep and roll.

SECT. XX. DECEMBER. 427

Mice traps, set about peas, beans, cauliflowers, £c.

249.
Caterpillars in trees, snails in walls, and slugs, see

after.

Tools, make, repair, grind, and keep bright, 295.
Seeds, look over the stock to keep them clean and dry.
Fruit and oinons, examine, remove decaying, 244,

281.

Straw, damp or musty, remove from store rooms.
Frost, guard against the ill effects of every where.
Wheat straw, useful to protect things, see radish, 254.
Vegetables, before hard frost, take up, see last month.
Artichokes, asparagus, and raspberries, (if not before)

give their winter dressing to soon, 215, 218, 174.
Endive, tie up when perfectly dry, and ridge some,

235.
Earth up (dry) celery high, also cauliflowers, char-

dons, brocoli, savoys, cabbages, £c. pressing the

mould.
Cauliflowers and lettuces in frames, £q. manage, 228,

242.
Planting, prepare for, and open the holes ready, 29,

103.

Vacant ground, clean, dung, rough, dig, or trench, 47.
Barrow, make use of when frost to wheel in dung, &c.
Hot-beds, see and manage the materials well for, 1 80,
Cucumbers may be sown in the last week, 187, 188.
Composts, make, and incorporate well by turning over.
Orchards, prune trees, dress, dig, or plough the soil?1

45.
Prune wall pear trees, espaliers, and shrubs, 161,

Hedges, ditches, and drains, manage as the case rcr

quires.

Drain wet from orchard, garden, nursery, &c.
Spring, have a constant eye to, and prepare things

for.

428 DECEMBER. SECT. XX,

SOW

J$eamy 220. Peas, 246. Radishes, 254. Carrots
may be fried as radishes. Lettuces ditto, under
glass in a warm border. Small sallad, as cress,
mustard, and lap lettuce, on a slight heat, 266, 243.

PLANT

Mint on heat, 270. Tre^y and shrubs of the hardy
deciduous kind, in open weather, covering the
roots and staking ; if against a wall fasten them to
it, 108, £c.

PROPAGATE

By suckers, cuttings, layers, &c. see October, 67, &G,

FLOWERS.

Take care of, but neither sow nor plant ; yet some
chuse to sow auriculas in this month, 382.

Covering of every kind is to be no closer, or longer
kept on than necessary, for great danger arises from,
much nursing, when plants come to be exposecj
again. See last month.

Auriculas See to, and take off dead leaves, 381.

Carnations guard against mice and much wet, 383,

Pots of hardy flowers, to protect, see last month.

NURSERY*

Protect, as the weather may require : all new planted
things, cover the roots of them well, 105.

Seedlings of tender things may be covered lightly all
over, but uncover in time, 73, 76.

Frost-cracks in seedling beds, fill up with sifte^
mould.

SECT. XX. DECEMBER. 429

Wet (much of) gives frost so great hold, that it should
be particularly guarded against, 381, 383,

Vermin must be attended to, particularly mice, which
are apt to bark, and so kill young trees, 75.

CLOSE.

Nature attend! join every living soul,
Beneath the spacious temple of the sky !
In adoration join ; and, ardent raise
One general song.

Soft roll your incense, herbs, fruits, zud
In mingled clouds to HIM, whose sun exalts,
Whose breath perfumes you, and whose pencil paintg.

THOMSON.

INDEX.

Page

A CORNS, to manage . 82

J\ Acanthus, Bear's Breech 361

Adam's Needle, to plant - 335

Adapt soil and situation - 48

Air, its use in ve getatioa • 10

Albuca, to manage - - 375

Alders, and other aquatics - 316

Alexander, culture of - - 214

All-spice tree, nature - - 827

Alysson, nature of 361

Amaranthus, sorts of, &c. - 339

Amaryllis Lily, &c. - - 377

American trees and shrubs - 311

Anemone, sorts of, &c. - - 375

- of planting - - 43
Andromeda tree - - 323, 335
Angelica, culture of 262
Animal manures, - 145
Annual, virgin stock - - 351
Annual flowers in general - 290
— tender - - 201, 292

seed from ditto - 295

- • • second sowing - 298
. of shifting, &c. - 294

- of potting them - 296

- less tender - - 298
. . . . various culture - 299
...' hardy sorts • - 300

three sowings - - 301

. autumn sowing - 300

water often - 296, 300

sow thinly - - 301

• transplanting - - ib*

hardy potted - - 302

list of tender - - 338

>." observations - - 339

'• list of less t«ad«r - 342

Annual observations

list of hardy ones

• • »• observations

late sowing

Ants, flies, and wasps
Apple, ornamental sorts
• as a wall tree

-• time to graff

• wall to prune
•• • chief sorts of

i to gather and1 keep
" baking sorts of -

April, the business of
Apricot, raised

— Breda, Brussels

— -* chief sorts

Apricots, of pruning

• of thinning

—.-—•— of gathering
Aralia, to propagate
Arbor vitae, nature of -
Arbutus, propagation, &c.
Artichoke, of planting

i ..i culture of
.. . winter care of

• long succession
. Jerusalem
Asparagus, of planting -

• * culture of

• management

— — — •- cutting of
Atheism, absurdity of -
Aster, China, culture, Sec.
Ash, America* sorts, &c.
Auricula, culture, &c. -
August, the business of
Autumn, flower show for
Avenues, trees for

INDEX.

431

Page

C.

Avens, the nature of - - 362

Page

Azalea, the nature of - - 327

Cabbage, sorts and eulture - 224

Azederach, nature of - 323

• red, concerning - 225

Calabash - - - - 23S

Calendar, comprehensive - 391

?'

Calceolaria, curious - - 340

Camomile, culture of 264

Balm, culture of - - - 263

Capsicum, culture, &c. - 264, 340

.Balsam, sorts and seed - 343

Carraway, culture of - - 265

Basil, the culture of 263

Carrot, caution about * • 48, 51

Bay-tree, the nature of - 333

— sorts and culture - 225

Belvidere, concerning - 350

ii i -,* i ^ ***s\ oa^

Belladonna lily, &c. - - 377

a forced crop - - 226

Berberry, how raised - 80

• — winter storing - - 227

to prune - -174

Cardinal flower, nature - 363

. sorts of, £c. - - 281

Carduus, culture of 265

Bean, sorts and culture - 219

Carnation, culture, &c. 352, 382

when dibbled - - 67

See March

of winter crops - - - 220

Cashiobury bush, nature of - 32$

succession crops - - S21

Candlebcrry myrtle, of - 327

Bear's ear-sanicle, of - 362
Beet, sorts and culture - ^ - 221

Campanula, pyramidal • 357, 362
Campion, culture of 35t

Beteny, nature of - * - 36tf

Catalpa, to plant, &c. - - 320

Biennial flowers, culture - 302

Caterpillars, slugs, &c. - Jan. Apr.

list of Sjl

Cauliflower, culture of - 228, 2£Q

nf wirr*riricr ^^ ft^?ft

— perennials - - 303

Cedar, Bermudian, of - - 333

Birch, nature of, &c. - - 316

Celery, sorts and culture - 23O

T>* *V% *" *3*~O

.«i*«4-A» ««.« A , r tio«

.Dinn-wort, nature 01 • oo.*
Blighted trees, dress - 54, June

Celeriac, its culture - - ib.

Blossoms, when formed - 146

Chardon, culture of ib.

. to preserve - - 152

Cherry, as wall fruit - - 31

Borage, the culture of - - 264

•• • how raised 94

Borders, dress - 29, 50, 145, 376

— ~ — wall, to prune - - 166

Boorcole, sorts and culture - 222

modes of bearing - ib.

Box, when to plant - March

• morella, of - 31, 166

edgings, &c. cut - April

standard, to prune • 172

how and oft to clip - 43

- •• • sorts and gathering - 282

Branches of plants 20

Chelone, culture of - - 353

Bryony, situation for - - 362

Chervil, culture of - - 265

Brocoli, sorts and eulture - 223

Chestnut, to raise - 79, 28S

Brussels sprouts -' - - 224

Chinese hollyhock, of - 299, 344

Buckthorn, of raising, &c, - 320

Chissel and saw, use of - - 171

Bugloss, the culture of • 264

Chou-de-milan, culture - 233

Buds of plants, what - - 20

Christmas rose, of • • 363

Bud-grafFs, when taken - 94

Chrysanthemum, culture - 344

Bulbous roots, a caution - 58

Cions proper for grafts - 8(*

how retired 301 310

Cistus, nature and care • 33(3

i • — raising advised - 310

Cives, the culture of 265

, of hich value 301i

Clary the culture of — •• ib

i culture of 305

Claspers of plants* use - •». 22

* — when to move - 375

CIcthra, elegant shrub - - 327

Climate, concerning - 109, 271

Close crops, duly thinned - 49

•r DrolcctinLT thciu 301?

Clumps and groupes - - 122
CodJin, of raising - 77

Eurnct, the culture ot - - 264

432

INDEX.

Page

Pace

Coichicnra, culture of - - 375

C/urrant tree, as a bush

* o

- 38

Culutca, concerning - 322, 340

4-n «.o!o,.

- 80

Colewort, culture of 233

•» • — waited, to prune 168

Columbine, concerning - 363

rf.niir} .,rfi ff'tf

- 173

f* * *Vkr> ir»»- <^O A.f\ "f A%

rt-~ /» a

GQ£>

v^ompost, lor iicco — z«/, T?t>, j.**^

Cuttings, Tarious, to set

Zo2
111 Tulv

auriculas - - 380

Cyclamen, culture of

jxi, j uiy
- 376

_t,. - — ,. — carnations - 383

Cytisus, management

327, 336

. — — geraniums - 587

• ii ' > Spanish sort

- 336

fc turn, &c. Jan. Feb. Mar.

Convolvulus major, &c. - 344

D.

Coriander, culture of - - 266

Corn sallad, culture of - ib.

Bay-break, admired

• 12

C«rnel, cornelian cherry - 281

December, business of -

- 426

Cow-dung, on hot-beds - 194

Decorations of art

126, 134

Cowslip, American - - 363

Dibble planting, of

- 51

Crab apple, Siberian, of - 323

Digging, well done

47,50

Cress, the culture of - - 266

L/ill, the culture of

- 267

American sort - - 267

Doitble blossomed trees

- 31

Crocus, leaves tie up - April

— • budding, what

- 100

Crops, of changing - -' 48

Dragon'* head, situation

- 363

against thick 49

Draining, hedging, &c.

- Jan.

of close ones • 49, 51

Drawing frames, use

- 295

_ -_— how to insure - 63

Drilb, or rows, sowing of

. 64

Cucumber, to raise, early - 186

Dung, of its proper use

- 47

, temper of bod - 188

heaps, care of

- 181

_ - - liuing in time - 185

Dutch, as flower raisers

- 304

.. moulding bed - 188

Dwarf trees, to raise

85, 95

_ — seed and sowing • ib.

r \- C

77,7*

_. . pricking out - 189

_ — giving air to - 190

». weather observe - 19*

E.

•— watering duly - ib.

_ burning 192, 194, 197

Earth, nsc in vegetation

8

„. steaming about - 192

E'irthing up, necessary

- 50

»— night covering - 193

Edgings of, walks to make

34, 43

_- seed bed, time of - ib.

— to keep in order

- 57

,. -.. stopping plants - ib.

- • • — time to repair

- 395

_ fruii.ii 1 5 bed - 194

of strawberries

- 175

. how to plant - 195

'I.- dwari stocks

- 351

»,. .- management of - 196

. of a bulbous root

- 355

— — - watering time - ib.

• a variety of

- 375

•. no neglect - - 198

Egg plant, management

- 340

. setting fruit - ib.

Elements, considered

3

- — of pruning - 199

Elm, propagation, &c. -

- 315

• of second crop - ib.

Endive, sorts and culture

- 234

.. . hand-glassed - ib.

England of its climate

- 294

. ridged plants - £00

Equivocal propagation

- 16

» third crop - 201, 202

Esculents, usefulness

- 213

t-*l* '*]•]*- <?f\ft

1 to iritther w

- ib.

m, i seed, to save 202, 234

. t» winter

- 423

. . — sorts of, &c. - 233

Espalier fruit trees, of -

- 36

—• spirting, wild - 339

— — — - pruning ditto

- 169

• ' serpentine - ib.

heading down

- ib.

Currant-tree, espaliered - 3ft

• ....-• .I- frames, repair

- 369

INDEX.

433

scarlet senna
Evergreens, to remove
— planting

F.

Farina, damage from
February, business of
Fencing of trees
Fennel, common and sweet
Fig-wort, management -
Fig-tree, of raising

• • • time to plant, &c.
•• time to prune -

• mode of bearing

— — — situation for

• • " - sorts of, 6cc.

" - winter care of

• of treJJising
Filbcrd, sorts of, &c.
> to raise, &c.

• walled, pruning
Fmochio, culture of

Fir, sorts, and of seeds -
Fire, use in vegetation -
Flagging, moved plants •
Flora's feast described •
Flowers, nature of
————— their beauty

• classed in sorts

. . . dispersed about

when too many

••• i ' — consider height
. r . pots, situation
. . watering pots -

. to be supported

when decaying

Flower compartments
Forest-trees, in orchard
— , to raise

•i of planting

_ season and how

• — of their profit
. ornamental

• care in plai

»i i — preparation tor

of fencing -

ol pruning

— , , single or.es

Fox-glove, situation, 6cc,
yritiUary, concerning
Frost, guard against
Fruit borders^ crop on -

Page

Pag«

• 353

Fruit-trees, planting high

- 104

. 83

- of cankering

- 108

113—118

Fruits, forced by heat -

- 185

, 73, 387,

— — great variety of -

- 277

400, 412

• • • of chusing them -

- 279

• i - advice about

- ib.

G.

- 82

- 394

Garden, formation of -

- 25

- 124

pleasure in ditto

- 125

t - 267

• size and situation

- 26

- 363

. screens and form

. 27

• 78

soil, and fruit wall

- 28

:. - 31

border, division

- 29

- 159

furnishing it, &e.

- 30

- ib.

. new, plan -of -

- 32

.. Ill

-- of flowers only -

42,43

- 282

- kitchen to adorn

- 42

- 159

» cultivation of -

46—59

- 161

. i .- soil respected -

- 47

- 282

- management of •

55—59

- 80

frames repaired

- Jan.

- 167

Gardener, professedly -

126, 136

- 267

.1 a good one -

- 29r>

- 336

• advice to

112, 187

. 11

. prophetic eye

- 130

- 299

Gardening, its praise.

1

- 23

• — sanctions

2—7

- 21

. mixed, of

. 42

22

, rural, of

- 125

- 289

extensive

- 127

- 42

• '- ornamental -

128, 132

- 302

« a caution in

126

- 42

- . . general work

• 391

. 297

— — — - a rale about

- ib.

- 53

Garlick, its culture

- 235

• 57

Geutianella situation

- 364

- 58

Geranium - 384, Aug.

Sept Oct.

»• 129

• sorts arranged

- 363

- 45

Germander tree, nature

. 336

* 81

Globe-flower, concerning

- 364

- 118

GoatVbeard, concerning

- 353

how 123

Golden rod, situation

- 365

>nt - 119

Gooseberry-tret', to raise

- 80

ib.

i.j i

ft A

38

i for - ib.

ih

* 124

t ^ ^ "

* *u»

- ib.

a

• 122, 128

- " * *r

- S63

Gourd, its culture »

V 23«

- 376

Grafting, its nature

- 83

- 392

of skill in

- 84

- 151

• i . - tools for ,

• 84

434

INDEX.

3
Grafting, preparing stocks
the time for
•• ••» in the cleft
• whip, on slice -
• bark, or crown
. iu the side
• - on the root
. . by approach -
.. by budding
. when taken
. . ^ observations
Grape-vine, to raise
*• ... * where to plant -

Page
85
87
88
89
90
92
84
92
94
98
ib.
78
31
71
156
ib.
138
ib.
159
ib.
,159

Hot-beds, nature and use
• -*• errors, common
— — situation for -
— dung prepared
« i — proper size of
— materials for -

Page
179, 184
- 180
- ib.
- ib.
- 181
182, 183
- 183
- 184
- 185
- ib.
- 135
JO
- 34*
. 43
- 328
r 268

- 392

• ' . - — bark and leaves
• to encrease heat
• to decrease it
House, ornaments about
Housed plants, sickiiness
Humble, sensitive plant
Hyacinths, of planting
Hydrangea, nature of
Hyssop, culture of •

I.

Januarv.- business of

»— *— —

VMMW^M.

prune and when -
— r— . mede of bearing -
— r — summer training -

r— — —-

— — of side shoots

.' • — bagged grapes, Sep. Oct.

Gratitude recommended - July

Grass-plats, managed 5,6

Gravel walks, ditto - - ib.

Green-house plants - 93, 364

Ground, kept in heart 48

.vacant, see to - 49

. stirring it oft - 56

Groundsel-tree, nature - 336

Guelder-rose, pruning - 179

Guernsey lily and other* 377

Half-standard-trees, plant - 31

Hammer- for pruning - - 141

fiare's-eiar, situation for - 336
Heading, young trees 103, 137, 169

Hedges, -of evergreens 32

-. ,.,,,.- for plantations - 117

Hellebore, white, soil, &c. - 365

• black, chr. rose - 363

Helonias> elegant plant •» 365

Hepntica, concerning - - ib.

Herbs, pot, in herbary 41

, nature of, see each - 262

to get for drjing - 26$

Hickery nut, what - - 318

Hog-dung, beneficial - - 145

Honey-suckle, pruning of - 178

• — evergreen - 336

Hornbeam, sorts, &c. - - 317

Hprse-radish; culture of - 236

Ilot-beds, a place for - •- - 42

Jasmines-, pruning of - -- 178

Ice-plant, to manage - - 341

Jerusalem artichoke - - 237

. a fair flower - - ib.

Inarching, how done 93

India pint, culture, &c. - 344

Indian shot, culture of - - 341

Inoculation performed - 94, 96

• « — various method - 98

Insects, of avoiding - - 145

Intermediate wall space - 31

Jpnquil, concerning - - 376

Iris, nature of, &c. - - 377"

Judgement in cropping - - 49

June, business of - - 406

July, business of - 410

Ixias, two hardy sorts - - 37?"

K.

Kidney bean, sorts, &c. - 237

— on a hot-bed, - 238

' seed, to save - 240

Kitchen garden, adorned - 43

Ketmia,-or hour flower - 35Q

Lady's smock and slipper - 365

Laburnham, pruning of - 178

Larkspur, culture of - - 350

Layer rases and evergreens - June

Layers, when to move, &c. - Oct.

Lavender, culture of - . 260

INDEX. 435

Page

Page

Leek, for a good crop -

- 48

Melon, of watering - - j»09

sorts and culture

- 240

• setting the fruit - ib.

winter storing

- ib.

of a second crop - 210

Lettuce, sorts and culture

- ib.

r*C ~'fl ,-C-.-. ~ ~«4. fM-t

•• winter plants -

- 242

under paper frames - 212

• of blanching

- ' ib.

— of a third crop - - ib.

• '- for small sallad

- 243

• of unripe fruit - - ib.

Light, its nature and use

- 12

Mignonette, culture of - 330

Lilac tree Drunin° of ••

178

Lilies, common and rare

- 377

Milk vetch, concerning - 369

Lily of the valley, culture

- 365

Mint, sorts and culture - 269

Lime, to improve soil

44, 48"

Monkey flower, of - 367

Line, to be freely used

- 51

Monk's hood, of - - ib.

Lion's fool, soil, &c.

' - 365

Moon-trefoil, beauty - - 336

Lipping, what it is '

- 100

Morina, ornamental - - 367

London pride, concerning

- 365

Moss, clear from trees - . 171

Loosestrife, nature of

- 366

from gravel walks - 56

Love-apple, or tomatuni

- 276

• " ' long, use of - 57, 75

Lungworts, concerning
Lupine, culture of

- 366
- ib.

Mountain ash, concerning - 320
Mulberry, of raising - - 78

Lychnidea, of raising

- - ib.

• -wall to prune - 165

Lychnis, double, culture

- ib.

' mode of bearing - ib.

• sorts and culture - 283

•"' — "light, culture - 350

M.

Mulleins, culture of — - 367

Mustard, culture of - - 270

Magnolias, nature of

» 32ft

• ;* . >• '

Mallow tree, to cultivate

- 328

~

MaHgoes, of unripe melons

- 212

N.

Manure, animal ones

109, 145

• for orchard

44,46

Nails," proper for trees - - 140

Manuring a garden, of

47, 48

Nasturtium^ culture, &c, 270, 345

March, business of

- 397

• — the double sort - 271

Marigold, pot, culture of

- 263

Nature, pious view of - - 14,

• African and French 344

Navew, culture of - - 262

Marjoram, sorts and culture

- 269

Neatness recommended . 55

Maple, the sorts of, &c.

- 32?)

Nectarine, raised - 77, 78, 9$

Marsh marigold, culture

- 366

• — . chief sorts, &c.~ - 284

Marvel of Peru, culture

- 345

• of pruning - - 137

Master wort, culture of -

- 366

• • of gathering " . 284

May, the business of

- 403

November, business of - 423

Medlar, to raise

- 73.

Nursery, usefulness of * 71

• sorts and culture

- 283

— — 7- management - 73, 8i

— ' '"• ripening by art

- ib.

soil, laying out - 73

Melon, sorts and seed -

- 243

* jouug SCOCKS, meve - -7t>

r of raising -

- 203

beds, and enemies - 75

" seed and sowing

- 204

watering beds - - jb.

>i of air and steam

- 205

" ' see well to - - Mar;

«——— of second bed .-
• ef fruiting bed -

- 206
- ib.

Nurserymen, concerning - 278
Nut tree, as timber, &.c. - 317

proper earth

- ib.

• • see Filberd - - 282

of planting out

- 207

^

earthing, training

- ib.

, — of set truit

. ib.

0.

• of pruning

- ib.

~ — stopping, moulding

- 208

Oak, particulars of . - 317

•-"" »" « lining and covering

- ib.

evergreen sorts - ". $3$

¥ i t

436

INDEX,

Page

Pac«

October, business of - - 419

Perennial, bulbous, &c. -

371

Onion, for a good crop - - 45

• observations -

375

r— — r sorts and culture - - 243

Periwinkle, to manage -

33?

. will transplant - r 244

Peony, sorts and culture

378

. of housing - 245

Phillyrea, sorts, &c.

337

Orchard, form and plant - 44

Pilewort, concerning

378

• — new, to garden - - ib.

Pink, sorts and culture -

368

,., ... .-»-. prune and manage 45

Pine tree, the sorts of, &c.

333

Order, garden kept in - 55
Orchis, culture of - - - 378

Pishamin, or date plum -
Pistachia, nature of, &c. -

320

- 521

Ornamental wall trees - .- 31

Plants, their economy -

14, 17

Orpine, management - - 367

- on the sleep of •

• 19

Over-cropping, against 49

Planters, praised -

- 82

1

• ' — professional

- 12S

Planting, discretion in -

- Ill

P.

• season tor

- 112

• . ' .. honourable

- 125

Palrna Christi, sorts, &e. - 345

•. .. , ,.i section of

r 100

Pans, lor pots, concerning - 297

• how performed

- 101

Pancratium Lily, culture - 377

r- when late

- 106

Paper frames, useful - - 212

Plantations, of making -

- 121

Parsley, Hamburgh, of - - 245

-r : of thinning -

- £24

— — —- common, culture - i'71

arranged r

- 133

Parsnep, culture of 245

Plumbago, to manage r

- 368

Parterres, of figured - 43

Plum tree, how raised

- 95

Passion flower, p( - 367

— as wall fruit -

- 31

Patches, of sowing - 66

»> n • • .- wall to prune

- 167

Pt-a, sorts and culture - - 245

• chief sorts, &c.

- 286

. crop, well stuck - - 247

Poison tree, concerning -

- 328

— will transplant - - 248

Polyanthus, culture of •

- 368

a,, ho\v to forward - - ib.

Pomegranate, of -

31, 328

. how to water - ib.

Poppy, eastern sort

- 369

• enemies to it - - • ib.

Poplar, culture of -

- 318

„ of stopping plants - - 249

Potatoe, sorts and culture

- 249

. . of the rouhcevals - - ib.

* raising early

- 251

—r— to stand winter - -110

v. ' "'- time to plant -

- ib,.

Peach tree, raised - 78, 94, 95

• i. changing sorts -

252—440

. October sorts 30, 110

- • storing them

- ib.

, , chief sorts, &c. - 284

• • . in orchard

- 44

of pnininjTj far, - 1*^7

Potted plants, concerning

- 297

Pear tree, as wall fruit 32
_ ; — dwarf stocks fer - 77

Poultry dung, to use
Pricking out seedlings -

- 44-
- 51

, how raised - - 95

— chief season

- June

. wall, to prune - r 161

Primrose tree, of -

- 353

- — to head and form - ib.

Procrastination, against -

- 59

, mode of bearing - 163

Propagation, methods

- ib.

'• '• summer pruning - 163

. — by seeds -

59—67

. — winter pruning - 164

• by suckers

- ib.

..— thinning fruit - - 165

- - by slips, &c.

- ib.

- — too lux u riant - - ib.

j by division

- 68

_ chief sorts, &c. - £84

• bv cuftincs

69

— gathering, housing - 285

— by layers -

- ib.

P.ennyroyal, culture of - - 272
Perennial flower, culture 303, 305

Pruner's great object
Pruning of wall trees

. 152
- 135

• i if from seed - - ib.

• desirable ability

- 136

,— — -— list of fibrous - - 356

— — _ the ends of it -

- ib.

^ — L. — observations - -361

i. LI i - principal time -

- JSQ

Pruning, the times for

— a general rule -

.— benefit of good

Pumpion, culture -
Purslane, sorts and culture

' '• tree, Spanish
Pyracautha, of

Q.

Qumces, of raising

•••- sorts aad housing

R.

Radish, sorts and culture

of winter Crops -

— • to force a crop •

succession crops -

Ragwort, to manage
Ratnpion, culture of
Ranunculus, of planting

— concerning

Rape, or coleseed, culture
Raspberry, of planting -

• of managing

twice bearing

..i— to propagate
. ...— sorts, &c.
i— of gathering

. to prune, &c.

Reed, Portugal, of -
Reed-hurdlea, useful
Rhubarb, sorts of, &c.
Rocket, propagation, &c
Rocombole, culture of
Roots, concerning -
Rosemary, sorts and culture
Rose, China, ever blowing
Rose tree, pruning of *
•• • . to propagate -

• where, very pt(

a • sorts arranged -

. . of double yellow

mask evergreen

Rudbeckia* culture
Rue, fhc culture of
Rural elegance, praised -
'—' — life, commended -
Rush, ornamental sort -

S.

Sa»e, sorts and culture •
Sallow, and willow, of

INDEX.'

437

Page

Page

Salsafy, culture of -

- 256'

e - - 168

Samphire, culture of

- 274

3d - 332

Sarracena, nature of

370

- 236, 253

Savin, variegated sort

- 337

ture i 272

Savory, sorts and culture

- 274;

i - - 337

Savoy, sorts and culture -

• 257

32, 179, 3S3

Saxifrage, pyramidal -
Scabious, culture of

- 379

Scorzonera, culture of -

- 257

Scurvy-grass", culture of -

- 274

Sculpture, ornaments of -

- 135

. 77

Sea-cale, or cabbage

- 257

ing - 287

<• ' ••'- as a flower

- 259

Seasons considered

49, 63

Seedling flowers, plant -

Marcli

Seeds, concerning -

- 14

•• ••« how to be sown -

63, &c.

re 254, 256

to save well

. 6£

i - - 254

-• — tree, to procur* -

8$

- - 255

lying two years -

- ib.

s - ib.

produce varieties -

- 84

- 337

Senna, pruning of -

- 170

- 272

of Maryland

- 3701

g - 43

September, business of -

- 413

; - * 378

Service, or sorb apple -

- 287

ure - 272

Shading, beneficial

52, 294

- 38

Shalot, culture of -

- 259

g - 39

Shreds, size and use

- 140

ng - ib.

Shrubberies, flowers for -

• 116

e - 80

' management of - 117

- - 287

Shrubs and shrubberies -

- 112

ig - ib.

' of raising -

74, 113

c. - 174

*• • time to plant

* ib.

» 369

» • ' - preparation for -

- ib.

- 305

"" ' how to plant

- ib.

- 369

of tender sorts -

- 115

C - ib.

• disposition of

- 116-

- 273

• care of suckers -

- 117

- 17

' • planted in gardens

* 42

Iture - 273

• i ' of pruning

174, 176

ing - 330

m.- /•*<-' **^ K^««t««.

- 176

- 177

•'' ' bearing times

19*6; 315

- 3.10

— heights of -

irr, it,.

pretty - 32

' - ne_ver to shear -

- 177

d - 326, 329

•• propagation of -

• 310

11 4 o^rt

PII ItiT'-itlnn nf*

*' 1 '>

»1IOVV •• <JO\J

een - 337

colour of blow -

^ 313

- 353, 370

— various names

• 314

- 273

-i- — — deciduous sorts -

* 324

1 - - 131

• - •- observations -

- 327

- •* 6, 7

— evergreen sorts •

* 334

S7O

». * Of v

• • ' tender to protect

- 33*

Sisyriachium, culture
Skirret, culture of -

- 371
* 259

Slips, things to propagate"

iMay

- 273

Sraallage, culture of

- 318

•Smilax, to manage -

. s4

438

INDEX.

Page

Pa^e

$nap dragon, nature of - - 3M

Summer planting/ of -

- 106

Snow drop tree, nature of . - 330

Summer-houses, about -

- 130

SaiJ. and situation,, adapt - 50

Supporting fruit crops -

- 57

— + improvement of - - 106

•-..I tlowers by ties

- ib.

* lor trees - f- 104 — 109

Sun, vivifying nature of -

- 11

Soloman's se;al, nature - . - 370

Sweet-briar, pruning of -

- 178

Sorrel,, sorts .and culture - 274

Sweet sultan, culture

- 347

Sowings, proportioned - 49, 65

Sweet-william, raising

- 355

• Cafj'r mtide 63 6'lr

Syringa, pruning of

- 17«

Spider wort* situation - - 379

Spinach, sorts and culture;. - 259

« succession crops - 260

T.

Spindle tree, prickwood - 323

. * rooted plants - - 298

Tarragon, culture of

- 275

iifjirea Frutcx, pruning - - 179

Tansey, culture of -

- ib.

Squash - -. - 23(5

Thinning seed crops

51, 67

Squill, management of - - 379

Thrift, when to set - . Feb. March

Standard fruit trees - - 36

Throatwort, sorts, &c.

- 371

tojaise - - 85, 95

Thyme, sorts and culture

- 27 6

i pruning of - 170, 173

Tillage, benefit of - . -

- 114

^.rar of Betbk-hem, of - - 379

Tomatum, culture of . -

- 276

iStanvorts, culture and soil. - 370

Tools, makej repair, &c.

- Jan.

Stems ot' plants, about - - 13

Tooth-wort, situation

- 379

Stewart!;', sfrrub, nature - - 323

Touch-me-not, a balsam -

- 343

St. John's v.-ort, .and Petal's - 330

Transplanting, flowers -

296, 301

s^tfifi^'» for crvHi'lino' rn 'f^

JMcU'cf i

__ Of sQ\ving .for 74

Trees and shrubs, managed

- 56

rt. management, of 76

^oil ior each

104—109

.. i >"~- paradise apple • 77

•-• '•'- young to chuse

- 101

iventish codlin - - ib.

joung, protection -

- 104

— — *•- by slickers and layers - .ib.

• watered and staked

- 105

— ... i-- quince for pears - - ib.

situation proper

- 109

sort ibr apricots - - .7,8

» use litlle dung -

' - 114

^ poach, nectarine - - ib.

for ornament

- 125'

— {'ortbe medlar - - .ib.

«• of cutting down -

- Iij7

£toclc,"teh vyeek, 4 sowings - 345

characteristics

- 1S3

. French and Prussian - .347

Trellises, concerning

- 141

to save the seed - - ib.

Trenching, vacant ground

- 47

biennial sorts - - ,352

Trowel, planting with

- 51

— I — dwarf \\iudovv - - _371

Trumpet flower, nature -

- 323

Strawberry, of planting - * - 39

Tuberose, sorts, 6cc.

379, 389

. fresh plantations - _ 40

Tuberous roots, to raise -

- 304

• •. •— to propagate - 80

: — calture of

- 305

°ort° of 3n 40 °88

Tvhpn fn mnvp

S7'>

1. \ilip* pluiitinsf in beds •

•• Of J

4$

• ''••'. in November - ...40

: sorts and culture -

- 37^

* ° — »^.. ... ••. ,. ^. .-..-../-i.-.*- *K

trpp iipfnrp ni* X'f* '

- 321

l^urf to IHV» &c« I^cb. j\i*ii

J\.pr. Oct.

• j of pruning - ,175

Turnep, sorts and culture

- 261

„?'•'.•'. of watering 4\t 53

• - cabbagt sort

- 262

" •' . .- ? -r «*' gathering - t'88

Tutsan, the nature of

- 330-

-—edgings'. 39, 117, 165

•' • .-• - • dressing time - 175

Succory, cujture of .- - 275

U.

Succulent plants, cuttings - 385

i

•ivif-rrin rp af)"Y

Vacant grb*und, see to -

March

* ^BII« ibroid Julv

Underwood, of raising •

• 191

Vegetation, nature of

" * . i

7"«H* l ' *,

INDEX.

439

Vegetables, to have sweet
decaying

— sorts forced -
praise of

•- to gather well
Vermin, set traps for
Viburnham, sorts of, &c.
Virginian, annual stock -

W.

Walks, gravel, to make -

- grass, and others

• clean from moss -

« forming shady -

* in plantations -
Wall-flower, of raising -
Walls, old, &c. to cover

for fruit trees

Wall fruit, thinning

• of dropping -

• — of gathering -

Wall-trees, oi planting -

• due form

• heading down
management

luxuriant

their health -

digging about

— - \ ouugj caution

voung, to form

— — -- diseased, weak

kept ciean -

— — unthrifty
— — full of wood

blights on

watering of -

fruit iulness *

duly thinned

to furnish

mode of bearing

.— _ much altertd

Page

Page

- 48

Wall-trees, of reviewing

- 152

- 58

Walnut-tree, to raise

- 79

+ o !Z

288, 318

- 213

Water, in a garden

- 42

ib.

introduced •

130, 134

- Tan

9

• JctlU

- 321

-'•• quality of sorts -

- 54

- 351

Water-glass flowers

- 309

Watering, business of

- 52

• what most need

- 53

• wall-trees

53, 146

• •-— grape vines

- 53

- S3

-•-^- engine for trees

- 54

35

' as to seasons -

- 53

- 56

• annuals -

296, 300

- 128

• nursery beds -

- 75

- 229

- — new pi. trees -

- 105

- 355

• • pot, for flowers

- 295

- 118

flower pots, &c.

- Feo.

28, 29

i • cuttings '

- 311

- 154

Weeding, the modes of -

- 50

- 155

Wet places, to plant

- 120

ib.

•• TVov

- ib.

Whitlow grass, nature

- 371

- 105

Willow heib> nature

- 331

- 137

Willow and iallow, of -

- 318

- ib.

Winter, plants abiding -

- 268

ib. £c.

the benefit of

- Dec.

143, 148

anticipated

• Js'ov.

- 142

• things to store -

- ib.

- 143
- 144

Worm grass, concerning - -371
Wormwood, sorts and culture 277

- 150

- 144

- 145

Y.

ib.

- 146

Year, concerning the end of

- 42

- 147

Yewj for division hedge -

- 117

* 146

- 147

- ib.

Z:

- 143

; - 149

Zinnia culture of •

- 347

%* The CALENDAR will be found accurately to direct) from time to time,
the work to be done relative to eacli of the foregoing articles, as sowing, plant-
ing, &c. A. id not to swell the Index to an unnecessary size, the author has
brought into it the mmtion only of a few things from the Calendar part, as
what is there directed has most of it appeared in the work before. The Cu*
'iendar is only a help to recollection, and with a glance of the eye may be seen
every thing the Gardener has to do : he is luere referred back lor itiu.e ample
information, if he needs it.

(jdT The many uses (as mentioned in this work) to which handglasses may
fce profitably applied, induces to recommend rather an ampi« immune wf

1

440 INDEX..

thera. Also to liayc plenty of garden pots of all size?, that plants may It
accommodated with just such a sized pot as is proper for them, which is a ma-
terial thhtg.

jtj, To the ?rticle POTATO s, concerning Seedlings, page 252, add; — The
Potatoes produced from each Seed should be kept separate, and two or thre*
from each carefully boiled also separate, and being tasted by a good judge,
choice of sort made accordingly, to be planted tor Propagation; the size,
shape and cclour, being in a measure considered as well as flavour.

ERRATA.

At the end of Sect. 5, should be a reference to the close of Sect. IS*
Page 191, for 184 read 185
— 195, for 191 read 190

19? t for 191 read 185

— — 239, fer rnners rend rtmners
^70, for '267 read 266

— 282,,/or 89 read 78, and 86, and omit 74
i!83, for 76 and 114 read 78 and 111, for 41 and 84 read 38 and 7S

284, Vbr 37, 83, 171 rtad-3B, 78, 165

288,/or 38, 54, 53, read 39, 53, 57, and for 108 read 109

^3, for 184 read 186

. 346, for 289 read 296

*,.* A peculiar circumstance occasioned these errors of reference, lint they
.»!! be easily rectified (once for all) by the reader's pe».

[ 441 ]

HINTS

METHOD OF MANAGING POND-FISH

JLHE quantity of Fish to be supplied obviously de-
pends upon the quantity of water, which should be
divided, where it conveniently can, into live ponds ;
these may be distinguished by the five first figures, as,
1, 2, 3, 4, 5.

Number 5 is intended for Breeding, and should be
double or treble the size of any of the other ponds. Or
if this be inconvenient, there may be two marked
No. 5. This pond may likewise be the most distant
from the house. If the Breeding Pond should fail to
answer this purpose, it will at least serve as a conserva-
tory for Fish of small size, to be obtained elsewhere :
and indeed fresh stores in any case will be found de-
sirable. The contents of this pond in Carp and Tench,
or the greatest part, should be taken out annually in
September, or October, counted in braces ; and such
as are from five to seven inches long thrown into
No. 4.

The contents of No. 4, when grown one year from
the length of five or seven inches, must be put into
No. 3. The contents of No. 3, having grown one
year from No. 4, must be removed into No. 2. And

442 HINTS ON THE

in like manner the contents of No. 2, after one year,
must be removed into No. 1, which is to contain only
such Fish as are fit for the table. It is obvious 'that
this pond, for safety and convenience, should be the
nearest to the house.

As No. 5 is to be the largest water, so No. 1 is to
be the least; the rest, qf sizes between the two.

The shape of No. 1 should be oblong, for the con-
venience of the net, and the less disturbance of the
Fish in taking out what are wanted from time to time.
A book should be kept by the Gardener, of the
number and size of each kind in every pond.

Carp are fit for the table from three to seven pounds
each. Tench from one pound and a half to' three
pounds each. Perch from three quarters of a pound
to one or two pounds, &c.

It is supposed that none of the ponds have a strong
current of very cold, acrid, innutritious water.

One acre of water upon a loam, clay, or marl, or
any of these with a mixture of gravel, has been stated
to be capable of supporting £000 pounds weight of
Pish: the number of the Fish making that weight
being immaterial.

Carp and Tench breed most freely in ponds, or pits
newly made. Tench likewise in almost any ponds,
where cattle are admitted.

It is evident that Perch and Pike should not be ad-
mitted in any degree in No. 5 ; but in all the other
numbers, besides their own value, they are of impor-
tant service, provided that they are strictly confined
to a size greatly subordinate to that of the Carp, or
Tench. For they destroy not only the accidental
spawn of Fish which breed, but also several Animals,
whose food is the same with that of Carp and Tench,
as Frogs, Newts, &c. Pike above the weight of one
or two pounds must not be admitted even amongst
Carp of the largest size and weight.

MANAGEMENT OF POND-FISH. 443

, With regard to the absolute weight of Fish, which
any particular pond will support, this can only be de-
termined by observation and experience ; as it de-
pends on the different degrees of nutrition in different
waters. It is said, that Carp and Tench in waters
which feed well, will, before they are aged, double
their weight in one year.

The third part of an acre in No. 1 would probably
be sufficient for the demand of any family i For, upon
the calculation above given, it would support near
700 pounds of Fish, which might be divided thus :

50 Brace of Carp, of three pounds each and up-
wards.

50 Brace of Tench, of two pounds each and up-
wards.

50 Brace of Perch, of one pound each and up-
wards.

That is, three Brace of Fish, weighing at least
twelve pounds for the use of every week.

Allowing one acre for No. 5, one third of an acre
for No. 1, and one aqre and two thirds for the inter-
vening numbers, the whole water would be .three
acres. Upon this calculation, the stock of No. 1; at
8d. per pound, would be worth 2; 31. 6s. 8d. per an-
num, and the expence annually of changing the Fish
from No. 5 to 4, &c. will not exceed ]1. 6s. 8d.
So that the value of each acre would be at lowest
71. 6s. 8d. annually.

No. 1 being supposed to be near the house, and at
no great distance from the garden, if the Fish should
not thrive sufficiently^ which will be seen by the dis-
proportioned size of the head, and the whiteness or
paleness of the scales, they may easily be supplied
.with more food by loose peas from the garden, the
sweeping of the granary, worms saved by the Gar-
dener in digging, and the offal of the poultry killed
for the kitchen ; or by letting dowu the water about

444 HINfS ON THE

two feet, in the spring or summer, where there is a
sufficient supply, and sowing the sides with oats,
barley, rye, or wheat, very lightly raked in, and then
stopping the sluice again.

In ponds already stocked, but not accurately re-
gulated, it would be adviseable to begin with that
which lias the most Pike, otherwise with No. 4, or
what is intended for No. 4, and throw all the Fish
under fiv-e inches length into No. 5, and the larger,
according to their sizes, into the other numbers : and
so on with No. 3, 2, and 1.

Store-Fish procured elsewhere, if taken in summer,
should be moved in the night in clean straw, wetted
occasionally after they are packed : except Perch and
Pike, which can only be carried in clean pond or river
water. In moving Fish from one Pond to another,
they should be first put into tubs of water already pre-
pared for them, and afterwards carried in buckets
without water. In taking Pike, or Perch, great care
must be observed to avoid raising mud in the water,

In Breeding Ponds all water-fowls, as Geese, Ducks,
&cv. should be discouraged ; and Herons carefully de-
stroyed. If any white Fish, as Roach, Dace, &c.
should be found, they are to be taken out; and if there-
be a spare piece of water for large Pike, they should
bo put into it as food for the Pike.

Eels may be put with advantage into any except
the Breeding Ponds, in lieu of Perch. The most easy
way of taking them is by trimmers laid over night,
baited with small Fish, not with worms : otherwise
they may catch the Carp : or a small thief net may be
baited with white Fish.

Common sewers and drains from the laundry are
prejudicial to fish: so are the leaves falling from trees
in great quantities. The use of grains should likewise
'be avoided in large quantities, as having little nutri-
ment whilst they are thus washed by the water*

MANAGEMENT OF POND-FISH. 445

It seems better for the use of the table, as well as
more humane, to kill Fish designed for food by an in-
cision with a sharp-pointed pen-knife, or punctures,
made with a pin longitudinally into the brain, about
half an inch or^an inch, according to the size of the
Fish, above the eyes. As this produces an instanta-
neous effect, it would probably save the cruel opera-
tion of crimping or flaying fish while alive ; as in the
case of Pike and Eels.

It is obvious, that this method of regulating Fish
will apply with its full effect in larger spaces of water:
it will likewise apply in a considerable degree to
-smaller pieces : even where the change is but from a
pond for the use of cattle to a single canal in a
garden.

In situations near the great inland manufactures,
and near the turnpike roads leading from an easy
distance to the metropolis, water may be made by
this kind of management, with little trouble or ex-
pence, to produce a large annual rent.

%* Mr. Marshall was favoured with this paper ou
Pond-Fish by an eminent literary character in the
Church — ".A member of the free Agricultural Society
at St. Petersburg;" and as the best method of breeding,
feeding, and preserving Fish, cannot but be esteemed
a valuable part of Rural Economics, he hopes it will
be peculiarly acceptable.

ON THE

PROFESSION OF A GARDENER.

H.E who undertakes the profession of a gardener,
takes upon himself a work of some importance, and
which requires no small degree of knowledge, inge-
nuity, and interest, to perform well. There are few
businesses which may not be learned in much less
time than that of a gardener can possibly be.

It often happens, however, that a man who has
been very little in a garden, and that only as a la-
bourer, who can do little more than dig, or put out
cabbage plants, will call himself a gardener ; but he
only is worthy of the name who having had much
practice in the various parts of horticulture, possesses
a genius and adroitness, fitting him for making expe-
riments, and for getting through difficulties that the
existing circumstances of untoward seasons, &c. may
bring him into. He should possess a spirit of en-
quiry into the nature of plants and vegetation, and
how far art (in his way) may be made successfully
useful, or at least probably so. The mode of growth,
the pruning, the soil, the heat, and the moisture that
suits particular plants, are not to be understood
without a native taste, and close application of the
mind. " Gardening depends more upon the lab'our;
of the brain than of the body."

ON THE PROFESSION OF A GARDENER. 447

There are few things to be done in a garden, but
which require a dexterity in operation, and a nicety in
hitting the proper season for doing it. A gardener
should be a sort of prophet in foreseeing what will
happen under certain circumstances, and wisely cau-
tious to provide (by the most probable means) against
what may happen.

A man cannot be a good gardener, except he be
thoughtful, steady, and industrious; possessing a supe-
rior degree of sobriety and moral excellence, as well
as genius and knowledge adapted to his business.
He should be modest in his manners and opinions.
It too often happens v»i:h those who have much prac-
tical skill, that they slight what is written upon sub-
jects of their profession ; which is a fastidious temper,
that the man of real merit will hardly entertain.

The knowledge of botany is not necessary to the
business of a practical gardener, but it might be made
useful to him, or at least a matter of amusement and
relaxation, enabling him to be respectably communi-
cative. Some knowledge in this way he will perhaps
not content himself without, if he has any thing to do
with the green-house, and hot-house, as many curious
plants are admitted there.

The character of a gardener is here set high ; but it
is \hegoal of respectability at which he ought to aim,
who presumes to call himself a professed one ; and
no doubt there are many in noblemen's and gentle-
men's services, who are thus respectable in their abi-
lities and good conduct.

It remains for the employer to consider the merits
of his gardener, and reward him accordingly, lie
should reflect upon the importance of his garden to
himself, family, and friends; and how great difference
there is between one well, and one ill managed. If
the soil and situation is untoward, or the season
<cross, (which in England is very apt to try a gar-

448 ON THE PROFESSION OF A GARDENER.

dener's skill and patience) he should be ready to make
allowance, as there is little to be done in working
against nature ; and to the most attentive and skilful
in the art of gardening, accidents will sometimes
happen, that might have been prevented. " In the
work of a garden there is no such thing as always
proceeding with certainty, and insuring success."
A gentleman should consider that he who furnishes

O

him with fruits and vegetables, almost lives in the
garden ; and that he cannot relax in his duty without
his neglect being manifest, by serious consequences
following it. There is always something for him to
do, that must be done now, to sow, plant, prune,
dress, &c. £c.

" Whoever will giv^ himself the pains to trace a
good gardener through the several stages of his em-
ploy, in all the seasons of the year, will iind it to be
one continued circle of labour and toil."

A gardener is, in many respects, differently situ-
ated to the other servants about a gentleman's house,
and these discriminating circumstances are what may
be said (according to general estimation) not to his
advantage. A gardener has reason, indeed, to love
his employment, as he meets with health and tran-
quillity in the exercise of it-f^at considering what he
is, and what he does, in his pfoper capacity, he may
justly claim a superior degree of estimation and re-
ward. A true gentleman is of a liberal spirit, and I
would plead for his gardener as a proper person to be
generous towards, if his manners be good.

FINIS.

Law avid Gilbert, Printers* St. John's-bqaare, Loncki*.

/