f #220b00 TOEO O MAPA, 1OHM/181N em 5) als DATA LIBRARY BOC Sere Co SOG! RAPHIC INSTITUTION I SS ere Deh aie §& ae Kad in The Polar Regions IN THEIR RELATION TO Human Affairs BY LAURENCE M. GOULD President of Carleton College SERIES FOUR THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY NEW YORK - 1958 BOWMAN MEMORIAL LECTURES Series One. Geography, Justice, and Politics at the Paris Conference of 1919. By Charles Seymour. 1951 Series Two. Agricultural Origins and Dispersals. By Carl O. Sauer. 1952 Series Three. Glacier Variations and Climatic Fluctuations. By H. W:son Ahlmann. 1953 Copyright, 1958 by the American Geographical Society PRINTED BY THE JOHN B. WATKINS COMPANY, NEW YORK Foreword Virtually since its founding, in 1852, the American Geo- graphical Society has held an interest in the exploration of the Polar Regions. Some thirty years ago Isaiah Bowman, speaking about these areas, remarked that “so much 1s now known that the unknown ts rather closely localized.” The large number of significant contributions to polar knowl- edge published by the Society during Dr. Bowman’s direc- torship bear witness to his keen interest and enthusiasm in promoting a better understanding of the Arctic and the Antarctic. He was a believer in scientific exploration, in attacking the unknown by placing the known facts in the forefront and confronting them with the problems. In his foreword to the Society’s publication, “Problems of Polar Research,’ Dr. Bowman commented that “a world confer- ence on objectives in polar research seems eminently desirable, and to supply an equivalent the present book has been undertaken by the American Geographical Society.” One can well imagine his wholehearted support of the present international codperative research taking place in the polar regions as part of the International Geophysical Year. It was therefore highly appropriate that at the mid-point in the IGY, the fourth in the series of Isaiah Bowman Memorial Lectures was delivered by Dr. Laurence M. Gould, eminent geologist, geographer, and explorer in both polar regions, at a dinner of the Society held on Janu- ary 30,1958. Trained in the field of geology, Dr. Gould lil held a position on the University of Michigan staff at the tume he served as second-in-command of the University’s First Greenland Expedition, 1926. Later he returned to the Arctic on several occasions for further work. He accom- panied Admiral (then Commander) Byrd on his 1928-1930 expedition to Antarctica as geologist and senior scientist, and again acted as second-in-command. In recognition of his accomplishments in the field of Antarctic geology and geography, he was awarded the David Livingstone Cen- tenary Medal of the American Geographical Society in 1930, and in the following year was presented with a gold medal by the Congress of the United States for his out- standing contribution to knowledge. In 1945, Dr. Gould became president of Carleton College in Northfield, Min- nesota. But his duties as an educator have not deterred him from his scientific interests. He serves as a member of the National Science Board of the National Science Foundation, and during the IGY has acted as chairman of the Antarctic Committee of the United States National Committee for the International Geophysical Year and Director of the United States IGY Antarctic Program. iv=— The Polar Regions TINT RAETR REEATHION TO Human Affairs EMBERS AND GUESTS of the American Geographical Society, Iam honored by and grateful for the invita- tion to give the Isaiah Bowman Lecture on a subject which I am sure would have pleased Dr. Bowman. I am honored because of my admiration for the American Geographical Society and its achievements and grateful because of the debt I owe to Isaiah Bowman for the unending stimulation of a long and faithful friendship. The north and south polar regions are distinguished by their dissimilarities rather than by any common character- istics; therefore they are best understood in terms of their contrasts. Indeed, I can think of but one worthwhile gen- eralization that applies to both, namely, that both will play more and more important roles in human affairs as the world becomes more crowded and man’s mobility increases. Isaiah Bowman once said that the Arctic is a hollow and the Antarctic a hump, referring to the oceanic character of the Arctic and the continental character of the Antarctic. Antarctica, the highest and coldest of all the continents, is the world’s greatest desert and the only continent which has never been the home of man, whereas the lands that fringe the Arctic exhibit more than four hundred species of flowering plants and a fauna which with the life of the sea supports a sturdy native population. ] \_\ RS bopa 7 \ woes 2 DOTA _ \ SS) 4% SVALBARD es NS O IN K Ase ©\i ZNUNITED on ° ‘\ 4 e IGY STATIONS According to information received by the General Secretary to March 24, 1957 North Polar Lands showing the limits of the Arctic Region (solid line) and the Sub-Arctic Region (broken line). All proposed IGY stations reported by the Secretary General as of March 24, 1957, are shown. Participating nations in the North Polar Lands include: Canada, Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway, Poland, Sweden, U.S.S.R., and the United States. The North Polar Lands OR THE PURPOSES OF THIS LECTURE, the Arctic and the F North Polar Regions are not synonymous. The former is too limited a concept, for it includes only a thin fringe of the North American and Eurasian continents plus Green- land and the islands of the Arctic Ocean. ‘This is a sparsely inhabited region in which the seas are more productive than the lands. I shall include both the Arctic and the sub- Arctic within the term North Polar Lands. A. L. Wash- burn’ defines the southern limit of the sub-Arctic as the zone where the average temperature is not higher than 50° F. for more than four months, and where the average temperature of the coldest month is below 32° F. While the Arctic is largely a region of islands and water (see Plate I at end) , the sub-Arctic bites off large continental segments of Eurasia and North America. The first aspect of any region that comes to mind in its relationship to human affairs is its role in the trade and commerce of the world. ‘The economic exploitation of the northlands followed close on the heels of the earliest ex- plorers who were in search of passages to India. ‘Their voyages revealed an abundance of whales whose exploita- tion established the northern seas as the major source of whale oil for generations to come. Ruthless exploitation — implemented by the development of whaling techniques that included explosive missiles such as propelled shoulder and dart guns — resulted in the rapid elimination of this once rich source. — 3 — RENEWABLE RESOURCES Even as the whalers plied the seas, hunters and trappers were invading the lands to exploit the fur-bearing animals. Much of the early explorations of the coastal and interior regions resulted from the strenuous activities of the hunters and trappers. ‘Though the renewable resources of the fur- bearing animals have been greatly diminished, they still pro- vide an important item in the economy of the northlands. Fishing has long since replaced whaling as the major harvest of north polar seas. All lands that border Arctic and sub-Arctic waters depend upon fishing as an important item in their economy. Norway is third in all the world in the production of fish. Canada, the Soviet Union, Green- land, and Iceland are important producers, and Alaska pro- vides one-seventh of all the fish consumed in the United States. Agriculture is limited to a few areas, but is slowly creep- ing northward. Part of this northward trend is due to the development of new strains of crops more resistant to cold and part may be due to a gradual warming of the climate. Fields are being cultivated in Greenland today that the Norsemen or their descendents cultivated five centuries ago. ‘Though grazing lands are limited, A. E. Porsild says the physical basis for the reindeer industry is tremendous. He states that the best lichen forest grazing areas would sup- port sixteen reindeer per square mile. At best, however, if the North Polar Lands are to play a much larger economic role in the commerce of the world, it will be on some other bases of northward movement and settlement than agricul- ture and animal husbandry. The greatest single renewable resource of the North 4 Polar Lands is undoubtedly the boreal forests. ‘The Soviet Union leads the world in forest resources and Canada is third. There is great potential for the development of hydroelectric power which will be important in the exploi- tation of these and other natural resources. NONRENEWABLE RESOURCES Even though only a modest beginning has been made in the detailed geological mapping of the North Polar Lands, they have long been important sources of a number of min- erals. Gold was the first to be exploited on a large scale and still remains by a large margin the most valuable min- eral in production. The Soviet Union is crowding South Africa for first place and Canada is third in the world pro- duction of gold. Important as gold is, it may eventually have to take sec- ond place to uranium ores. ‘Two of the three largest known deposits of fissionable ores in the whole world are in sub- Arctic Canada. Iron has been mined for a long time in the sub-Arctic lands of Eurasia, and as the richer deposits in the lower latitudes of North America are exploited, the pressure for the development of more remote deposits increases. One of the most spectacular iron ore deposits in the world is the Burnt Creek area seven hundred miles northwest of the city of Quebec. Exploitation began in 1954 with 417 mil- lion tons of proven ore, averaging 49 per cent to 61 per cent iron on a dry basis, with strong probabilities of greater re- sources. Little wonder this deposit is called the Mesabi of Canada. In 1956, International Nickel Company of Canada, Ltd., 5 announced the opening up of a vast new deposit of nickel- iferous ore four hundred miles north of Winnipeg, which will be in production in 1958. By that time this single en- terprise will be supporting a settlement of 8000 people, which according to the president of International Nickel could grow into a community of 50,000 in the predictable future. All this is happening in what only yesterday was a vast sub-Arctic wilderness without roads or railroads. While not as important as the metallic minerals noted above, deposits of copper, lead, zinc, tungsten, platinum, and tin have been or are being worked at a number of places. Of the nonmetallic minerals, coal is known to occur over wide areas of the North Polar Lands. It has been re- ported from more than half the Canadian Arctic islands and has long been mined in Spitsbergen and Greenland, as well as on the mainlands of North America and Eurasia. The petroleum industry has a future of much promise. Nearly all Soviet northlands appear favorable for the devel- opment of oil, and the gently folded rocks north of the Brooks Range in Alaska are very promising. Much of this part of Alaska has been held as a reserve by the United States Navy since 1923. The Soviet Union has pursued a much more aggressive policy in the development of its northlands than has either Canada or the United States and is undoubtedly far ahead in number and size of settlements and general exploitation of the natural resources. On the whole, the polar lands of North America are underdeveloped. Massive capital investments are necessary but they appear to be forthcoming when new resources of merit are opened up. The northward pressure of popula- tion in itself will also hasten further developments. Eventu- 6 ally the peoples of the northlands will be drawn more and more into world affairs from lower latitudes. It is unlikely that the Eskimos and other native peoples will maintain their identity indefinitely. We who have known these re- markable peoples even slightly contemplate with profound regret the eventuality that they will become casualties of our advancing “civilization.” Clearly the resources of the North Polar Lands are im- portant and hold high promise for further development, but the current role of the northlands in their relationship to human affairs derives not so much from economic factors as from their geographic location. STRATEGIC CONSIDERATIONS By the sheer logic of its position, the Arctic is destined to become one of the great crossroads for air traffic on a global scale. Most of the earth’s regions — indeed, those most highly developed and, except for India and China, most populous — he about the Arctic. Lloyd calls attention to the fact that 90 per cent of the people live north of the equator, that 10 of the world’s largest cities lie between the Arctic Circle and the Tropic of Cancer, and that only 9 of the world’s 41 cities with populations over a million lie out- side this zone.” The greater part of the world’s oceanic trafic has therefore been in the Northern Hemisphere. The shortest route from San Francisco to Shanghai is not across the Pacific but via Alaska, and the latter route is 2300 miles shorter. If you were to travel by conventional routes on sea and land from San Francisco to Moscow, which would be via Tokyo and Vladivostok, you would cover 15,500 miles. If you flew over the Arctic, you would 7 need to cover about 10,000 fewer miles. Every capital of Europe is as close to Chicago as is Buenos Aires. ‘The extensive searches for the Northeast and Northwest passages which followed Columbus’ demonstration of a New World failed, not because of any geographic miscon- ceptions, but because their methods were inadequate. ‘The ships of the air provide techniques of exploration not af- forded by the ships of the sea. Mercator’s chart was suit- able for the westward thrust of European civilization in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, but presented a com- pletely inadequate concept of the polar regions. We are again forced to discover in our air age that the Mercator chart in itself did not change the world — it is still round, and there is no longer any limitation to the application of this fact to the most effective means of transportation and communication. Lloyd points out that the recognition of the strategic im- portance of the Arctic approach to Canada is not new.* One of the early explorers of the Canadian Arctic mainland was the Scotsman, Mackenzie. When Napoleon read his trav- elogue almost 150 years ago, he gave Marshall Bernadotte the job of attacking eastern Canada from the rear by way of watercourses described by Mackenzie. For 150 years fol- lowing the establishment of the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1670, western Canada was settled from the Arctic. Traders, trappers, and the settlers came that way — even as far south as the Red River that forms the boundary between Min- nesota and North Dakota. The first American to call attention to Arctic strategy was Secretary Seward of Lincoln’s Cabinet, who sponsored the purchase of Alaska in 1867 and who would also have had us secure Iceland and Greenland by purchase from 8 Denmark as part of our ultimate national security. The pathetic struggle of the late great General Mitchell to open the eyes of his colleagues to the importance of Alaska is a story too well known to need reiteration here. And of course Stefansson, perhaps the greatest and most persistent of all Arctic prophets, has been trying for nearly half a century to educate us to an awareness of the impending importance of the Arctic. The Soviet Union was first to recognize the strategic im- portance of the Arctic in our air age and first to attempt to do something about it on a large scale, her extensive ex- plorations and settlements being dominated primarily by a sense of military strategy. But even the great Russian trans-Arctic flights of 1947 failed to impress us. Not until World War II was fairly upon us did either Canada or the United States begin to take serious thought and action con- cerning the Arctic regions. To secure the best coordinated effort, the Permanent Joint Board on Defense was created in August, 1940, to “consider in the broad sense the defense of the northern half of the Western Hemisphere.” Under the agreement each country is responsible for bases in its own land except for United States bases in New- foundland. The Board now involves strategic planning at the highest levels in both countries, armament programs with standardized specifications, joint weather programs, and joint network of radar and other communication sys- tems. Ihe most notable is the most recently completed DEW (Distant Early Warning) line, which stretches from Point Barrow, Alaska, three thousand miles eastward to Baffin Island. It has been completed at a cost of six hundred million dollars. Does not this sum suggest to you some- thing of our official concept of the strategic importance of 9 the Arctic? The DEW line is backed up by the Mid-Canada Defence Line and by the Pinetree Line on the U. S.- Canadian border. In addition to these developments, the United States and Canada have established experimental stations on some of the great floating ice islands in the Arctic. NATO, the North Atlantic Treaty Organization, is a further reflection of the importance of this area, for it in- cludes countries of the free world for which the North Atlantic is an important thoroughfare. ‘There is much we do not know about Soviet activities in the Arctic. Undoubtedly the Russians have not only duplicated, but have far exceeded all that we have done. We know that they have made hundreds of plane landings on ice islands, which as early as 1937 they began using as platforms for meteorological and other observations. The late General Arnold, who commanded the United States Army Air Force in World War II, said that if World War III came, its strategic center would be the North Pole. Few people even in his own service paid attention to him. It took another courageous voice to call attention to our vulnerability via Greenland, which led to the establish- ment of the great air facility of Thule in north Greenland. ‘That was the voice of Colonel Bernt Balchen. The strategic significance of the Arctic has increased as civilization has progressed or developed. ‘The development of guided missiles and other weapons but adds to it from a military standpoint. It is tragic that the real possibilities for economic development should be overshadowed and obscured by the defense preparations I have described. Granted peace, the economic strategic importance of the northlands will exceed their military significance. 10 ee a ee Ree Ht) Bee + RY aeenne, aig) Se ee ee ee i Fig. 1 — NORTH POLAR REGION: RESEARCH AND DISCOVERY. An Aerobee rocket carrying scientific instruments is launched at Fort Churchill, Canada. (Photograph courtesy of U. $. National Committee for the International Geo- physical Year.) 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The Antarctic Continent lies almost wholly within the Antarctic Circle, which roughly parallels the isotherm of 32° F. for the warmest month. There is no intimacy between Antarctica and other land masses as there is between all of the other continents. You might start at Cape Horn and travel to all the rest of the continental lands never crossing more than sixty miles of shallow seas, whereas most of the lands around Antarctica are separated from it by as much as two thousand miles of water. The narrowest oceanic area, Drake Passage, is more than seven hundred miles wide. However, what is generally regarded as the most notable natural boundary relating to the totality of South Polar conditions roughly parallels the isotherm of 50° F. for the warmest month (the outer boundary of the Outer Polar Belt). ‘This is the Antarctic Convergence, an unbroken and rather sharply defined boundary around the continent whose position shifts slightly from season to season. ‘The Antarctic Convergence is caused by the fact that the cold waters of the northward-moving Antarctic intermediate current are denser than the sub-Antarctic waters and sink sharply below them with but little mixing. Sea and air temperatures, water analyses, the character of the plankton and the sea birds, all reveal this boundary. 1] 1000 MILES 1500 KILOMETERS (0) 500 1000 0 0 500 ANTARCTIC lee ia 70 \ South Georgia I. 3 u PALMER PENINSULA = (14 stations) West Base © = O Little AmericaV 9°" Ss Hallett fscott_<~ Pa B® Sd. , ANTARCTHUCA us Pole of Inaccessibility. > 77 ro The approximate location of the Antarctic Convergence, generally regarded as the most acceptable boundary of South Polar condi- tions, is shown by a solid line. IGY stations and facilities are shown by solid dots. Participating nations in the Antarctic are Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Chile, France, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, South Africa, United Kingdom, United States and U.S.S.R. South e Magnetic South Geomagnetic (S+Poz < % Ra \ N. G Vostok + &s La Np SSS e Pionerskaya, Davis \ --7 ‘i; 4005 Or =F 8 957 9 i 4 Wilkes) wef (Oazis” ECONOMIC RESOURCES The economic role which Antarctica plays in human affairs is a simple one. Although the continent proper is a great desert, the seas that surround it are notable for their abundance of life. Whaling is currently the only exploita- tion of this abundance, but it is an important industry which accounts for eighty-five per cent of the world’s total production of whale oil. Of the nonrenewable or mineral resources, coal is present in Antarctica in vast quantities. It is, however, low grade lignite and not even in the predictable future can it be regarded as an economic asset. The structure and geology of the rocks in west Antarctica suggest the possibility of oil. ‘Traces of manganese, nickel, copper, and other ores have been found, but at the present time we know of no com- mercial deposits of any mineral whatsoever in Antarctica. It is unwarranted to assume that there are great riches. It is equally unwarranted to assume that there are none. We just don’t know, for less than one per cent of the continent has really been examined geologically. SOVEREIGNTY PROBLEMS One of Antarctica’s roles in human affairs is apt to center around the question of its ownership. Seven nations have claimed pie-shaped sectors: Great Britain, New Zealand, Australia, Norway, Chile, Argentina, and France, leaving unclaimed a sector from 150° to 90° W. — West Antarctica, which includes Marie Byrd Land and which has been the principal area of recent United States explorations before the IGY. These claims are based upon debatable evidence. The 13 ACCESSIBILITY OF ANTARCTIC COAST {74 LIMIT OF PACK ICE PART OF THE YEAR